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diff --git a/38822.txt b/38822.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..487df44 --- /dev/null +++ b/38822.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11354 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Genius of Scotland, by Robert Turnbull + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Genius of Scotland + or Sketches of Scottish Scenery, Literature and Religion + + +Author: Robert Turnbull + + + +Release Date: February 10, 2012 [eBook #38822] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GENIUS OF SCOTLAND*** + + +E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Mary Meehan, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) + + + +THE GENIUS OF SCOTLAND; + +Or + +Sketches of Scottish Scenery, Literature and Religion. + +by + +REV. ROBERT TURNBULL + +FOURTH EDITION. + + + + + + + +New York: +Robert Carter, 58 Canal Street +1848. + +Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1847, +by Robert Carter, +In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States +for the Southern District of New York. + +Stereotyped by Thomas B. Smith, +216 William Street, New York + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Having been born and educated in Scotland, and possessing a tolerable +acquaintance with its History and Literature, the Author of the +following Work felt that he had some facilities for giving to the people +of this country a just idea of his native Land. The plan of his work is +somewhat new, combining in a larger degree, than he has hitherto seen +attempted, descriptions of Scenery, with Literary and Biographical +Sketches, portraitures of character social and religious, incidents of +travel, and reflections on matters of local or general interest. Hence +he has omitted many things which a mere tourist would not fail to +notice, and supplied their place with sketches of more enduring +interest. He would particularly invite attention to the sketches of +Knox, Burns, Wilson, Chalmers, Bruce, 'The Ettrick Shepherd,' and Sir +Walter Scott. His rambles through fair or classic scenes are thus +enlivened with useful information. In a word, it has been his endeavor, +in an easy natural way, to give his readers an adequate conception of +the Scenery, Literature, and Religion of Scotland. + +HARTFORD, CONN. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + Preface 1 + + +CHAPTER I. + + Beauty an Element of the Mind--Our Native Land--Auld Lang Syne--General + Description of Scotland--Extent of Population--Spirit of the People--The + Highlands--The Lowlands--Burns's 'Genius of Scotland'--Natural and Moral + Aspects of the Country--'The Cotter's Saturday Night'--Sources of + Prosperity 11 + + +CHAPTER II. + + The city of Edinburgh--Views from Arthur's Seat--The Poems of + Richard Gall--'Farewell to Ayrshire'--'Arthur's Seat, a + Poem'--Extracts--Craigmillar Castle--The Forth, Roslin Castle + and the Pentland Hills--Liberty 32 + + +CHAPTER III. + + Walk to the Castle--The Old Wynds and their Occupants--Regalia of + Scotland--Storming of the Castle--Views from its Summit--Heriot's + Hospital--Other Hospitals--St. Giles's Cathedral--Changes--The + Spirit of Protestantism 42 + + +CHAPTER IV. + + John Knox's House--History of the Reformer--His Character--Carlyle's + View--Testimony of John Milton 53 + + +CHAPTER V. + + Edinburgh University--Professor Wilson--His Life and Writings, Genius + and Character 62 + + +CHAPTER VI. + + The Calton Hill--Burns's Monument--Character and Writings of 'the + Peasant Poet'--His Religious Views--Monument of Professor Dugald + Stewart--Scottish Metaphysics--Thomas Carlyle 77 + + +CHAPTER VII. + + Preaching in Edinburgh--The Free Church--Dr. Chalmers--A Specimen + of his Preaching--The Secret of his Eloquence 99 + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + Biographical Sketch of Dr. Chalmers 113 + + +CHAPTER IX. + + Dr. John Brown of Edinburgh--Rev. John Brown of Whiteburn--Professor + John Brown of Haddington--Rev. Dr. Candlish--Specimen of his + Preaching 126 + + +CHAPTER X. + + Ride into the Country--The Skylark--Poems on the Skylark by + Shelley and the 'Ettrick Shepherd'--Newhall--'The Gentle + Shepherd'--Localities and Outlines of the Story--Its Popularity + in Scotland 138 + + +CHAPTER XI. + + Biographical Sketch of Allan Ramsay--Lasswade--Ramble along the + banks of the North Esk--Glenesk--A Character--Anecdote of Sir + Walter Scott--Hawthornden--Drummond, the Poet--His Character + and Genius--Sonnets--Chapel and Castle of Roslin--Barons of + Roslin--Ballad of Rosabella--Hunting Match between Robert Bruce + and Sir William St. Clair 157 + + +CHAPTER XII. + + Ramble through the Fields--Parish Schools--Recollections of Dominie + Meuross--The South Esk--Borthwick and Crichtoun Castles--New Battle + Abbey--Dalkeith--Residence of the Duke of Buccleugh--'Scotland's + Skaith,' by Hector Macneil--His Character and Writings--Extracts + from the 'History of Will and Jean' 183 + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + City of Glasgow--Spirit of the Place--Trade and Manufactures--The + Broomielaw--Steam--George's Square--Monuments to Sir Walter Scott, + Sir John Moore, and James Watt--Sketch of the Life of Watt--Glasgow + University--Reminiscences--Brougham--Sir D. K. Sandford--Professor + Nichol and others--High Kirk, or Glasgow Cathedral--Martyrdom + of Jerome Russel and John Kennedy 197 + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + The Necropolis--Jewish Burial Place--Monument to John Knox--Monuments + of William Macgavin and Dr. Dick--Reminiscences--Character and + Writings of Dr. Dick--Pollok and 'the Course of Time'--Grave of + Motherwell--Sketch of his Life--His Genius and Poetry--'Jeanie + Morrison'--'My Heid is like to rend, Willie'--'A Summer Sabbath + Noon' 209 + + +CHAPTER XV. + + Dumbarton Castle--Lochlomond--Luss--Ascent of Benlomond--Magnificent + Views--Ride to Loch-Katrine--Rob Roy Macgregor--'Gathering of Clan + Gregor'--Loch-Katrine and the Trosachs--The City of Perth--Martyrdom + of Helen Stark and her husband 231 + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + Sabbath Morning--'The Sabbath,' by James Grahame--Sketch of his + Life--Extracts from his Poetry--The Cameronians--'Dream of the + Martyrs,' by James Hislop--Sabbath Morning Walk--Country Church--The + Old Preacher--The Interval of Worship--Conversation in the + Church-yard--Going Home from Church--Sabbath Evening 244 + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + Lochleven--Escape of Queen Mary from Lochleven Castle--Michael + Bruce--Sketch of his Life--Boyhood--College + Life--Poetry--'Lochleven'--Sickness--'Ode to Spring'--Death--'Ode + to the Cuckoo' 260 + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + Dunfermline--Ruins of the Abbey--Grave of Robert Bruce--Malcolm + Canmore's Palace--William Henryson, the poet--William Dunbar--Stirling + Castle--Views from its Summit--City of Stirling--George Buchanan + and Dr. Arthur Johnston--Falkirk--Linlithgow--Story of the Capture + of Linlithgow Castle--Spirit of War--Arrival in Edinburgh 284 + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + Journey to Peebles--Characters--Conversation on Politics--Scottish + Peasantry--Peebles--'Christ's Kirk on the Green'--A Legend--An old + Church--The Banks of the Tweed--Its ancient Castles--The Alarm + Fire--Excursion to the Vales of Ettrick and Yarrow--Stream of + Yarrow--St. Mary's Lake and Dryhope Tower--'The Dowie Dens of + Yarrow'--Growth of Poetry--Ballads and Poems on Yarrow by Hamilton, + Logan and Wordsworth 295 + + +CHAPTER XX. + + Hamlet and Church-yard of Ettrick--Monument to Thomas + Boston--Birth-place of the Ettrick Shepherd--Altrieve + Cottage--Biographical Sketch of the Ettrick Shepherd--The Town of + Selkirk--Monument to Sir Walter Scott--Battle-field of Philiphangh 319 + + +CHAPTER XXI. + + Return to the Banks of the Tweed--Abbotsford--The Study--Biographical + Sketch of Sir Walter Scott--His Early Life--Residence in the + Country--Spirit of Romance--Education--First Efforts as an + Author--Success of 'Marmion'--Character of his Poetry--Literary + Change--His Novels--Pecuniary Difficulties--Astonishing + Efforts--Last Sickness--Death and Funeral 334 + + +CHAPTER XXII. + + Melrose Abbey--The Eildon Hills--Thomas the Rhymer--Dryburgh--Monuments + to the Author of 'The Seasons' and Sir William Wallace--Kelso--Beautiful + Scenery--A Pleasant Evening--Biographical Sketch of Leyden, Poet, + Antiquary, Scholar and Traveller--The Duncan Family--Journey + Resumed--Twisel Bridge--Battle of Flodden--Norham Castle--Berwick + upon Tweed--Biographical Sketch of Thomas Mackay Wilson, author of 'The + Border Tales'--Conclusion--'Auld Lang Syne' 351 + + + + +GENIUS OF SCOTLAND. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + Beauty an Element of the Mind--Our Native Land--Auld Lang + Syne--General Description of Scotland--Extent of Population--Spirit + of the People--The Highlands--The Lowlands--Burns's 'Genius of + Scotland'--Natural and Moral Aspects of the Country--'The Cotter's + Saturday Night'--Sources of Prosperity. + + +The theory has become prevalent among philosophers, and even among +literary men, that beauty is more an element of the mind than of +external objects. Things, say they, are not what they seem. Their +aspects are ever varying with the minds which gaze upon them. They +change even under the eyes of the same individuals. A striking +illustration of this may be found in the opening stanza of Wordsworth's +Ode to Immortality. + + There was a time when meadow, grove and stream, + The earth and every common sight + To me did seem + Apparelled in celestial light, + The glory and the freshness of a dream. + It is not now as it hath been of yore; + Turn wheresoe'er I may, + By night or day, + The things which I have seen I now can see no more. + +It is the mind then, which transfers its own ethereal colors to the +forms of matter, and invests scenes and places with new and peculiar +attractions. Like the light of the moon streaming through a leafy grove +and transforming its darkness into its own radiant beauty, the spirit of +man diffuses its own inspiration through the universe, + + "Making all nature + Beauty to the eye and music to the ear." + +Now if this theory be true, it follows that no country will appear to us +so beautiful as the one which happens to be endeared to our hearts by +early recollections and pleasant associations. No matter how rude and +wild,--that spot of all others on earth, will appear to us the sweetest +and most attractive! 'New England,' says a native of Massachusetts or of +Vermont, 'is the glory of all lands. No hills and vales are more +picturesque than hers, no rivers more clear and beautiful.' 'Visit +Naples, and die!' exclaims the Neapolitan, proud of his classic home. +'Green Erin, my darling,' is the fond language of the Hibernian, 'first +gem of the ocean, first flower of the sea.' 'Here's a health,' shouts +the native of Caledonia, 'bonny Scotland to thee!' Others may speak +disparagingly of the sour climate and barren soil of Scotland; but to a +native of that country, the land of his fathers is invested with all the +charms of poetry and romance. Every spot of its varied surface is +hallowed ground. He sees its rugged rocks and desolate moors mantled +with the hoary memories of by-gone days, the thrilling associations of +childhood and youth. Therefore, with a meaning and emphasis, which all +who love their native land will appreciate, he appropriates the words of +the poet:-- + + Land of the forest and the rock, + Of dark blue lake and mighty river, + Of mountains reared aloft to mock, + The storm's career, the lightning's shock, + My own green land forever! + Land of the beautiful and brave! + The freeman's home, the martyr's grave! + The nursery of giant men, + Whose deeds have linked with every glen, + The magic of a warrior's name! + +Does not Scotland, however inferior, in some respects it may be deemed +to other lands, possess a peculiar charm to all cultivated minds?[1] +What visions of ancient glory cluster around the time-honored name! +What associations of 'wild native grandeur,'--of wizard beauty, and +rough magnificence. What gleams of 'poetic sunlight,'--what +recollections of martial daring by flood and field,--what hallowed faith +and burning zeal,--what martyr toils and martyr graves, monuments of +freedom's struggles and freedom's triumphs in moor or glen,--what +'lights and shadows' of love and passion,--what ancient songs, echoing +among the hills,--what blessed sabbath calm,--what lofty inspiration of +the Bible and covenant,--in a word, what dear and hallowed memories of +that 'Auld lang syne,' indigenous only to Scotland, though known +throughout the world! Should this be deemed enthusiastic, let it, and +all else of a similar character which may be found in this volume, be +ascribed to a natural and not unpardonable feeling on the part of the +writer. The remembrance of 'Auld lang syne' can never be extinguished. +Except the hope of heaven, it is our best and holiest heritage. + +[Footnote 1: The following eloquent passage from an address by the +Honorable Edward Everett, before the "Scots' Charitable Society," +Boston, well illustrates the fact referred to. + +"Not to speak of the worthies of ages long passed; of the Knoxes, the +Buchanans, and the early minstrelsy of the border; the land of your +fathers, sir, since it ceased to be a separate kingdom, has, through the +intellect of her gifted sons, acquired a supremacy over the minds of men +more extensive and more enduring, than that of Alexander or Augustus. It +would be impossible to enumerate them all,--the Blairs of the last +generation, the Chalmerses of this; the Robertsons, and Humes; the +Smiths, the Reids, the Stuarts, the Browns; the Homes, the Mackenzies; +the Mackintoshes, the Broughams, the Jeffreys, with their distinguished +compeers, both on physical and moral science. The Marys and the +Elizabeths, the Jameses and the Charleses will be forgotten, before +these names will perish from the memory of men. And when I add to them +those other illustrious names--Burns, Campbell, Byron, and Scott, may I +not truly say, sir, that the throne and the sceptre of England will +crumble into dust like those of Scotland: and Windsor Castle and +Westminster Abbey will lie in ruins as poor and desolate as those of +Scone and Iona, before the lords of Scottish song shall cease to reign +in the hearts of men. + +For myself, sir, I confess that I love Scotland. I have reason to do so. +I have trod the soil of the + + Land of brown heath and shaggy wood, + Land of the mountain and the flood, + +I have looked up to the cloud-capt summit of Ben Lomond; have glided +among the fairy islets of Loch Katrine; and from the battlements of +Stirling Castle, have beheld the links of Forth sparkling in the morning +sun. I have done more, sir; I have tasted that generous hospitality of +Scotland, which her Majesty's Consul has so justly commemorated; I have +held converse with her most eminent sons; I have made my pilgrimage to +Melrose Abbey, in company with that modern magician, who, mightier than +the magician of old that sleeps beneath the marble floor of its chancel, +has hung the garlands of immortal poesy upon its shattered arches, and +made its moss-clad ruins a shrine, to be visited by the votary of the +muse from the remotest corners of the earth, to the end of time. Yes, +sir, musing as I did, in my youth, over the sepulchre of the wizard, +once pointed out by the bloody stain of the cross and the image of the +archangel:--standing within that consecrated enclosure, under the +friendly guidance of him whose genius has made it holy ground; while +every nerve within me thrilled with excitement, my fancy kindled with +the inspiration of the spot. I seemed to behold, not the vision so +magnificently described by the minstrel,--the light, which, as the tomb +was opened, + + broke forth so gloriously, + Streamed upward to the chancel roof, + And through the galleries far aloof: + +But I could fancy that I beheld, with sensible perception, the brighter +light, which had broken forth from the master mind; which had streamed +from his illumined page all-gloriously upward, above the pinnacles of +worldly grandeur, till it mingled its equal beams, with that of the +brightest constellations, in the intellectual firmament of England."] + + As 'Auld Lang Syne' brings Scotland one and all, + Scotch plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear streams, + The Dee, the Don, Balgownies brig's black wall, + All my boy feelings, all my gentler dreams + Of what I then dreamt, clothed in their own pall, + Like Banquo's offspring; floating past me seems + My childhood, in this childishness of mind; + I care not;--'tis a glimpse of 'Auld Lang Syne.' + + BYRON. + +Beautiful is New England, resembling as she does, in many of her +features, 'Auld Scotia's hills and dales,' and moreover being much akin +to her, in religious sentiment and the love of freedom; so that a native +of either might well be forgiven for clinging with peculiar fondness to +the land of his birth, and, in certain moods of mind, prefering it to +all the world beside. Though far away, and even loving the place of his +estrangement, he cannot, if he would, altogether renounce those ties +which bind him to his early home. A 'viewless chain,' which crosses +ocean and continent, conveys from the one to the other that subtle, yet +gracious influence, which is quicker and stronger than the lightning's +gleam. Let no one then be surprised if a Scotsman in New England, the +cherished land of his adoption, should solace his mind with the +recollection of early days, and endeavor to set before others the +characteristic beauties and excellences of his native country. + + O Caledonia, stern and wild, + Meet nurse for a poetic child! + Land of brown heath and shaggy wood, + Land of the mountain and the flood, + Land of my sires! What mortal hand, + Can e'er untie the filial band + That knits me to thy rugged strand! + +"Scotland," as one of her own sons has expressed it, "is a wee bit +country," but possessed of "muckle pith and spirit." Its surface is +rough and mountainous, with beautiful patches of rich arable land along +the courses of its streams, and extensive level meadows, called Carses, +as the Carse of Falkirk, and the Carse of Gowrie. It is of unequal +breadth, being much indented with bays and creeks, and stretches some +two hundred and eighty miles in length, reckoning from its most +southerly point, the Mull of Galloway, to Dunnet's Head, its most +northern extremity. This probably would be a little farther than from +"Maiden Kirk to Johnny Groat's," the "from Dan to Beersheba" of +Scotland. Clustering around its western and northern sides are the +Hebrides, the Shetland and the Orkney islands; wild and rocky isles, +with rude and primitive inhabitants, constituting the Ultima Thule of +Great Britain. In Scotland, a considerable portion of the land is +uncultivated, consisting of heathy hills, mountains and moors; and the +most of that which is cultivated has been rendered productive by the +hand of art and industry. Like Switzerland, it is comparatively a poor +country, but has been made rich by the generative powers of mind. Her +wealth consists in the brawny arms and vigorous intellects of her sons. +The climate is cold and variable, though milder in winter than that of +New England, and in summer cooler, and upon the whole, more agreeable, +except when dense fogs and long-continued rains prevail. + +The population is over two millions and a half, and is gradually +increasing, though the people, like those of New England, are greatly +given to migration, and may be found in every part of the world. Its +commerce and manufactures are, for its size, very extensive. They have +increased, since 1814, from twenty-five to thirty per cent. Agriculture +and the mechanic arts have been carried to a high degree of perfection. +While the people are characteristically cautious and slow, "looking +before they leap," to quote one of their favorite proverbs, they are +bold and enterprising, and thus leap long and successfully. Few nations +have accomplished so much in literature or trade, in science or the arts +of industry. Their highest distinction, however, consists in their +spirit of love and fealty, their leal-heartedness, their contempt of +sham, their passionate love of freedom, their zeal for God and the +truth! Obstinate and wrong-headed at times, characteristically dogmatic, +and perhaps a little intolerant, their very faults lean to virtue's +side, and go to the support of goodness. Their punctiliousness and +pride, their dogged adherence to what they conceive to be right, and +their vehement mode of defending it, constitute the rough and prickly +bark which defends the precious tree. One thing is certain, they are +transparent as daylight, and honest as their own heathy hills. + +They are preeminently a religious people, protestant to the backbone, +occasionally rough and impetuous in the expression of their opinions, +but never formal, never indecorous. A profound enthusiasm, bordering on +fanaticism, a passionate, though not boisterous or canting devotion, a +fine sense of the grand and beautiful, intermingled with a keen +conscientiousness, an ardent love of freedom, with a boundless trust in +God, form the great elements of their religious life. Their theology is +chiefly Calvinistic, apparently philosophical and dogmatic, but rather +less so than popular and practical. Of cathedrals, old and dim, of +masses, chants and processions, the pomp and circumstance of a +magnificent ritual, they have none.[2] But of old and glorious memories, +solemn temples among the woods and hills, hallowed grave-yards, blessed +sacraments, and national enthusiasm, they have abundance. Their religion +is a part of the soil. It is indigenous to the country. It grew up among +the mountains, was nursed by 'wizard streams,' and 'led forth' with the +voice of psalms, among 'the green pastures of the wilderness.' Somewhat +forbidding at first, like the rough aspect of the country, it appears +equally picturesque and beautiful, when really known and loved. It is +the religion not of form but of substance, of deep inward emotion, not +of outward pretension and show. Neither is it a sickly sentimentalism +which lives on poetic musings, and matures only in cloistered shades and +moonlight groves; but it is a healthy, robust principle which goes forth +to do and to suffer the will of Heaven. Its head and heart are sound, +and its works praise it in the gate. Beautiful as the visions of fancy, +it is yet strong as the everlasting hills among which it was reared. In +a word, it is the religion of faith and love, the religion of the old +puritans, of the martyrs and confessors of primitive times. Welling out +forever from the unstained fountains of the Word of God, it has marked +its course over the fair face of Scotland, with the greenest verdure, +the sweetest flowers. + +[Footnote 2: This is spoken, of course, of the great body of the +people.] + +Scotland is naturally divided into Highlands and Lowlands. The former +includes, besides the various groups of islands on the north and +north-west coast, the counties of Argyle, Inverness, Nairn, Ross, +Cromarty, Sutherland and Caithness, with portions of Dumbarton, +Stirling, Perth, Forfar, "Aberdeen awa," Banff and Elgin, or the more +northerly regions of the country, protected and beautified by the mighty +range of the Grampians, commencing at the southern extremity of Loch +Etive, and terminating at the mouth of the Dee on the eastern coast. The +Highlands again are divided into two unequal portions by the beautiful +chain of lochs, or lakes running through the Glenmore-Nan-Albin, or +Great Glen of Caledonia, forming some of the wildest and richest scenery +in the world. To the north are the giant mountains of Macdui, Cairngorm, +Ben-Aven and Ben-More, while nearer the Lowlands, rise the lofty +Ben-Lomond, and the hoary Ben-Awe. Under their shadows gleam the storied +lochs, the wild tarns and trosachs, whose picturesque and romantic +beauties have been immortalized by the pens of Burns, Scott, and Wilson. + +To the south and east of the Grampian range, and running parallel to +them, you discover a chain of lower and more verdant hills, bearing the +well known and poetical names of the Sidlaw, Campsie and Ochil hills. +These are divided by the fertile valleys of the Tay and Forth. Between +them and the Grampians lies the low and charming valley of Strathmore. +The "silver Tay," one of the finest rivers in Scotland, rises in +Breadalbane, expands into lake Dochart, flows in an easterly direction +through the vale of Glendochart, expands again into the long and +beautiful Loch Tay, which runs like a belt of silver among the hills, +whence issuing, it receives various accessions from other streams, +passes on in a southerly direction to Dunkeld, famous for its ancient +Abbey and lovely scenery, skirts the ancient and delightful city of +Perth, below which it is joined by its great tributary the Earn, which +flows, in serpentine windings, through the rich vale of Strath-Earn, +touches the populous and thriving town of Dundee, and gradually widens +into the Firth of Tay, whose clear waters mirror the white skiff or +magnificent steamer, and imperceptibly mingle with the waves of the +Northern Sea. Further north, the rapid Spey, springing from the 'braes +of Badenoch' near Lochaber, passes tumultuously through a rough and +mountainous country, lingering occasionally, as if to rest itself in +some deep glen, crosses the ancient province of Moray, famous for its +floods, so admirably described by Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, passes +Kinrara, "whence, for a few miles, it is attended by a series of +landscapes, alike various, singular and magnificent," after which, it +moves, with a monotonous aspect, and a steady pace, to the sea. Portions +of the country through which this river passes are exceedingly sterile +and wild. Covered with the birch, the alder and the pine, varied by +rugged rocks and desolate moors, it admirably corresponds to our +notions of Caledonia, in her ancient and primitive integrity. + +In the more remote and northern regions of the Highlands, and in most of +the Scottish isles, the Gaelic, or Erse, a primitive and energetic +tongue, somewhat akin to the Welsh or Irish, is spoken by a majority of +the inhabitants. In other parts of Scotland, the English, with a +Scottish idiom, is the prevalent speech. The literature of the Gaelic is +exceedingly limited, confined chiefly to old ballads, songs and +traditionary stories. The poems of Ossian are doubtless the production +of Macpherson, their professed translator, while they probably contain a +few translated fragments, and some traditionary facts and conceptions +afloat among the Highlanders, ingeniously interwoven with the main +fabric of the work. + +The Highlanders are a simple-hearted, primitive race, mostly poor, and +imperfectly educated. Those of them that are wealthy and well educated, +are said to be remarkably acute, courteous, and agreeable. + +The Lowlands of Scotland comprehend the south and southeastern portions +of the country, and though not the grandest and most romantic, are by +far the best cultivated, and in some respects the most beautiful. +Including the level ground on the eastern coast to the south of the +Moray Firth, they stretch along the coast through portions of +Perthshire, and the old kingdom of Fife, towards the regions bounded on +either side, by the river and the Firth of Forth, and thence to +Kircudbright and the English border, including the principal cities, +the most fertile tracts of arable land, the rivers Forth, Clyde and +Tweed, and the range of the Cheviot hills, which extend from the north +of England towards the north-west, join the Louther hills in the region +of Ettrick and Yarrow, with their 'silver streams,' pass through the +southern part of Ayrshire and terminate at Loch Ryan, in the Irish +Channel. The Clyde is the most important commercial river in Scotland. +Taking its origin among the mountains of the south, not far from the +early home of its beautiful and more classic sisters, the Tweed and the +Annan, it runs in many capricious windings, in a northwesterly +direction, leaps in foaming cascades first at Bonnington, and then at +Cora Linn, rushes on through the fine country of Lanarkshire, till, +joined by many tributary streams, it passes through the large and +flourishing city of Glasgow, bearing upon its bosom the vast commerce +and population of the neighboring regions, flows around the walls of old +Dumbarton Castle, with its time-worn battlements and glorious memories, +in sight, too, of the lofty Ben Lomond, and the beautiful lake which it +protects, touches the ancient city of Greenock, expands into the Firth +of Clyde, and gradually loses itself amid the picturesque islands which +adorn the western coast of Scotland. + +Were it possible, by placing ourselves upon some lofty elevation, to +take in at one glance, the whole of this varied landscape of lake, +river, and mountain; of tarn, trosach and moor, with verdant vales, and +woody slopes between, we should confess that it was one of as rare +beauty and wild magnificence as ever greeted the vision of man. And were +our minds steeped in ancient and poetic lore, we should be prepared to +appreciate the faithfulness and splendor of Burns's allegorical +description of the "Genius of Scotland." + + "Green, slender, leaf-clad holly boughs, + Were twisted gracefu' round her brows, + I took her for some Scottish Muse, + By that same token, + And come to stop those reckless vows + Would soon be broken. + + A hair-brained sentimental trace, + Was strongly marked in her face; + A wildly witty-rustic grace, + Shone full upon her, + Her eye e'en turned on empty space, + Beamed keen with honor. + + Her mantle large, of greenish hue, + My gazing wonder chiefly drew, + Deep _lights and shadows_ mingling threw + A lustre grand; + And seemed, to my astonished view + A _well known land_! + + Here rivers in the sea were lost; + There mountains in the skies were tost; + Here tumbling billows marked the coast, + With surging foam; + There, distant shone, Art's lofty boast, + The lordly dome. + + Here Doon poured down his far-fetched floods; + There well fed Irwine stately thuds: + Auld hermit Ayr staw through his woods, + On to the shore; + And many a lesser torrent scuds + With seeming roar. + + Low in a sandy valley spread, + An ancient _borough_ reared her head + Still as in Scottish story read, + She boasts a race, + To every nobler virtue bred, + And polished grace. + + By stately tower or palace fair + Or ruins pendent in the air + Bold stems of heroes here and there, + I could discern; + Some seemed to muse, some seemed to dare + With feature stern." + +Now, imagine the whole of this country, studded at no remote intervals, +with churches and schools well supported, and well attended by young and +old. Think of her ancient and able Universities, Edinburgh, Glasgow, St. +Andrews, and Aberdeen, including in the last, Marischal College and +Kings College, with an average attendance of from 2500 to 3000 students, +with their learned and amiable professors, extensive libraries, and fine +collections in Natural History. Think of her innumerable high schools, +private schools, public and private libraries, literary institutes and +ancient hospitals, some for the body and some for the mind, and connect +the whole with her heroic history, her poetical enthusiasm, her +religious faith, her fealty to God and man, and you will have some faint +conception of the beauty and glory of Scotland. + +But the impression would be deepened, could you behold the land, +beautified and ennobled by her sabbath calm, as once in seven days, she +rests and worships before the Lord. Could you but hear the voice of her +church-going bells, and go to the house of God, in company with her +thoughtful but cheerful population; could you sit in some "auld warld" +kirk, and hear some grey-haired holy man dispense, with deep and tender +tones, the word of everlasting life; could you hear a whole congregation +of devout worshippers make the hills ring again, with their simple +melody; above all, could you place yourself in some deep shady glen, by +the "sweet burnie," as it "wimples" among the waving willows, or the +yellow broom, or sit down on the green "brae side," enamelled with +"gowans," on some sacramental occasion, when thousands are gathered to +hear the preaching of the gospel, and with simple ritual, to commemorate +the dying love of the Redeemer! Could you see the devout and happy looks +of the aged, and the sweet but reverent aspect of children and youth, as +the tones of some earnest preacher thrilled them with emotions of holy +gratitude, in view of the "loving kindness of the Lord," you would +instinctively feel that Scotland,--free, Protestant Scotland, was a +happy land, and would be prepared to exclaim with the sweet singer of +Israel: "Blessed are the people that know the joyful sound, they shall +walk, O Lord, in the light of thy countenance." + + "How with religious awe impressed + They open lay the guileless breast; + And youth and age with fears distressed + All due prepare, + The symbols of eternal rest + Devout to share. + + How down ilk lang withdrawing hill, + Successive crowds the valleys fill; + While pure religious converse still + Beguiles the way, + And gives a cast to youthful will, + To suit the day. + + How placed along the sacred board, + Their hoary pastor's looks adored,-- + His voice with peace and blessing stored, + Sent from above, + And faith and hope, and joy afford + And boundless love. + + O'er this with warm seraphic glow, + Celestial beings pleased bow; + And whispered hear the holy vow, + 'Mid grateful tears; + And mark amid such scenes below + Their future peers."[3] + +[Footnote 3: Letter to Robert Burns, by Mr. Telford, of Shrewsbury, a +native of Scotland.] + +Or you might leave this scene, and study the Scottish character with +some shepherd boy on the hills, as he reads God's word upon the +greensward, and meditates on things divine, while tending his flocks far +from the house of God, on the sabbath day, a circumstance to which +Grahame in his poem of the Sabbath, has touchingly referred, and which +Telford has thus described: + + "Say how, by early lessons taught, + Truth's pleasing air is willing caught! + Congenial to the untainted thought, + The shepherd boy, + Who tends his flocks on lonely height, + Feels holy joy. + + Is aught on earth so lovely known, + On sabbath morn, and far alone. + His guileless soul all naked shown + Before his God-- + Such prayers must welcome reach the throne + And bless'd abode. + + O tell! with what a heartfelt joy + The parent eyes the virtuous boy; + And all his constant kind employ, + Is how to give + The best of _lear_ he can enjoy, + As means to live." + +The scenes of "the Cotter's Saturday Night," one of the sweetest poems +in any language, are exact transcripts from real life, as Burns himself +intimates. His father was "a godly man," and was wont, morning and +evening, to "turn o'er, wi' patriarchal grace, the big ha' Bible," and +worship God, with his family. Where in Italy or in Austria will you meet +aught so beautiful or thrilling as the following? + + "The cheerfu' supper done, wi' serious face, + They round the ingle form a circle wide, + The sire turns o'er wi' patriarchal grace + The big _ha' Bible_ ance his father's pride: + His bonnet reverently is laid aside, + His lyart haffets[4] wearing thin and bare: + Those strains that once did sweet in Zion glide + He wales a portion with judicious care; + And 'Let us worship God!' he says with solemn air. + + They chant their artless notes in simple guise, + They tune their hearts, by far their noblest aim; + Perhaps _Dundee's_ wild warbling measures rise, + Or plaintive _Martyrs_ worthy of the name, + Or noble Elgin beats the heavenward flame, + The sweetest far of _Scotia's_ holy lays. + Compared with these Italian trills are tame; + The tickled ears no heartfelt raptures raise, + Nae unison hae they with our Creator's praise. + + The priest-like father reads the sacred page, + How Abram was the friend of God on high, + Or Moses bade eternal warfare wage + With Amalek's ungracious progeny; + Or how the royal bard did groaning lie + Beneath the stroke of Heaven's avenging ire; + Or Job's pathetic plaint and wailing cry; + Or rapt Isaiah's wild seraphic fire; + Or other holy seers that tune the sacred lyre. + + Perhaps the Christian volume is the theme: + How guiltless blood for guilty man was shed, + How He who bore in Heaven the second name, + Had 'not on earth whereon to lay his head;' + How his first followers and servants sped; + The precepts sage they wrote to many a land: + How he who lone in Patmos banished, + Saw in the sun a mighty angel stand; + And heard great Babylon's doom pronounced by Heaven's command. + + Then kneeling down to Heaven's eternal King, + The saint, the father, and the husband prays, + Hope springs exulting on triumphant wing, + That thus they all shall meet in future days: + There ever bask in uncreated rays, + No more to sigh or shed the bitter tear, + Together hymning their Creator's praise, + In such society, yet still more dear; + While circling time moves round in an eternal sphere. + + Compared with this how poor religion's pride, + In all the pomp of method and of art, + When men display to congregations wide, + Devotion's every grace except the heart; + The Power incensed the pageant will desert, + The pompous strain, the sacerdotal stole; + But haply in some cottage far apart, + May hear well pleased the language of the soul, + And in His book of life the inmates poor enroll." + +[Footnote 4: Withered cheeks.] + +These are the elements of a people's greatness. These are the perennial +sources of their ruth and loyalty, their freedom and virtue. These guard +the domestic graces, these bind the commonwealth in holy and enduring +bands. Better than splendid mausoleums and gorgeous temples, better than +costly altars and a pompous ritual, better than organ blasts and rolling +incense, better by far than mass and breviary, confessional and priestly +absolution! For while the most imposing forms of Religion are often +heartless and dead, these sacred rites of a Christianity pure and +practical, ever possess a vital power,--a power to quicken and save. + + "From scenes like these auld Scotia's grandeur springs, + That makes her loved at home, revered abroad; + Princes and lords are but the breath of kings, + 'An honest man's the noblest work of God.' + + * * * * * + + O Scotia! my dear, my native soil! + For whom my warmest wish to heaven is sent, + Long may thy hardy sons of rustic toil, + Be blest with health and peace and sweet content! + And oh, may Heaven their simple lives prevent + From luxury's contagion, weak and vile! + Then howe'er crowns and coronets be rent, + A virtuous populace may rise the while, + And stand a wall of fire around their much loved Isle." + +But we have dwelt long enough on general topics. If the reader will +accompany us, we will ramble together in some particular scenes, +meditating, as we go, on things new and old, and chatting, in lively or +in sombre mood, as the humor may seize us. First of all then, let us +visit "Auld Reekie," as the inhabitants often call it, or more +classically, "the modern Athens," the beautiful and far famed metropolis +of Scotland. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + The city of Edinburgh--Views from Arthur's Seat--The Poems of + Richard Gall--"Farewell to Ayrshire"--"Arthur's Seat, a + Poem"--Extracts--Craigmillar Castle--The Forth, Roslin Castle and + the Pentland Hills--Liberty. + + +We will enter the city on the west side, as if we were coming from +Glasgow, pass through Prince's Street, with its elegant buildings and +fine promenades, skirting that enclosure of walks and shrubbery, just +under the frowning battlements of the Castle, and adorned with the +superb statue of Sir Walter Scott, rising rapidly to its completion; +then turn the corner at right-angles, cross the North Bridge, enter High +Street, and thence plunge down the hill into the old Canongate; and +without waiting to look at "the Heart of Midlothian," or even the +beautiful ruins of Holyrood House, at the foot of the hill, let us turn +to the right, and climb the rocky sides of "Arthur's Seat" with its +summit of verdure overlooking the city and the neighboring country. For +there the whole panorama of the city will spread itself before us, +surrounded with magnificent scenery, stretching far and wide from the +Pentland Hills on the one side to the Firth of Forth on the other, from +Stirling Castle on the west to the German Ocean on the east. Here we are +then, on the very highest point of the mountain, with the warm sunshine +around us, tempered as it is by the fresh "westlin wind," at once so +sweet and bland. Aye, aye! this is beautiful! What a landscape! How +varied and yet how harmonious! Not only beautiful exceedingly, but +ineffably grand and striking! Beneath us is the fine old city--new and +old at the same time, lying nearly square, with its lofty buildings and +elegant monuments, handsome parks and green shrubberies. To the left is +the older part of the city, rising gradually from the palace of Holyrood +at our feet, and crowned by the Castle, which is built upon a granite +rock, whose rough sides, terminating abruptly to the north and west, +hang over Prince's Street and the lower part of the city. + + "There watching high the least alarms, + Thy rough rude fortress gleams afar; + Like some bold veteran gray in arms + And pierced with many a seamy scar: + The ponderous wall and massy bar, + Grim rising o'er the rugged rock; + Have oft withstood assailing war, + And oft repelled the invader's shock."--Burns. + +Before us and stretching away towards the Forth and the city of Leith is +"the new town," surmounted on this side by the Calton Hill, on which +stand the monuments of Dugald Stewart and Admiral Nelson, the unfinished +Parthenon, and the monument of Robert Burns,--beautiful and imposing +objects, reminding us of the Acropolis of Athens, and affording fine +relief to the long ranges of smooth and polished buildings beyond. +Behind us are the Pentland Hills with their verdant slopes and historic +recollections. To the right lie the city and bay of Leith, "the Piraeus" +of Edinburgh, the long winding shore in the direction of Portobello, and +"the dark blue deep" of the ocean, studded with white sails, glistening +in the summer radiance. To the north, at a distance of a few miles, you +see the majestic Firth of Forth, and beyond, "in cultur'd beauty," the +"Kingdom of Fife," with the distant range of the Ochil and Campsie +hills. From this point also you can see, at a distance of some three +miles, the gray ruins of Craigmillar Castle, famous in the annals of +Scotland, as the residence of Queen Mary, and the scene of those secret +machinations, which ended in the tragedy of Holyrood; Inch Keith with +its lofty lighthouse; the isle of May, once consecrated to St. Adrian, +and on which stands another "star of hope" to the mariner; and old +Inchcolm, famous for its ancient convent founded by St. Colomba, one of +the patron saints of Scotland. How gloriously, light and shade, land and +ocean, park and woodland, old castles and hoary ruins, frowning rocks +and smiling meadows mingle and blend in this rare and magnificent +landscape. + + "Traced like a map the landscape lies + In cultur'd beauty stretching wide; + There Pentland's green acclivities, + There ocean, with its azure tide; + There Arthur's Seat, and gleaming through + Thy southern wing Dun Edin blue! + While in the orient, Lammer's daughters, + A distant giant range are seen, + North Berwick Law, with cone of green, + And Bass amid the waters." Delta.[5] + +[Footnote 5: Supposed to be Dr. Moir.] + +Here you can easily understand the reason why Edinburgh has been thought +to resemble the city of Athens. Mr. Stuart, author of the "Antiquities +of Athens," was the first to call attention to this fact, and his +opinion has often been confirmed since. Dr. Clarke remarks that the +neighborhood of Athens is just the Highlands of Scotland, enriched with +the splendid remains of art. Another acute observer states that the +distant view of Athens from the Aegean Sea is extremely like that of +Edinburgh from the Firth of Forth, "though," he adds, "certainly the +latter is considerably superior." "The resemblance," says J. G. Kohl, +the celebrated German traveller, "is indeed very striking. Athens, like +Edinburgh, was a city of hills and valleys, and its Ilissus was probably +not much larger than the Water of Leith. Athens, like Edinburgh, was an +inland town, and had its harbor, Piraeus, on the sea-coast. The mountains +near Edinburgh very much resemble those near Athens. I have little +doubt, however, that Athens is more honored by being compared to +Edinburgh, than Edinburgh to Athens; for it is probable that the scenery +and position of the Northern are more grand and striking in their +beauty, than those of the Southern Athens." + +By the way there is a beautiful poem in the Scottish dialect, entitled +"Arthur's Seat," written by Richard Gall, a young man of great promise, +the friend and correspondent of Burns. He struggled with poverty, and +like Fergusson and Michael Bruce, was cut off prematurely, but not +before he had written some exquisite poems, in the style of Burns, whom +he greatly admired. He was contemporary with the unfortunate but gifted +Tannahill of Paisley, and possessed a kindred taste in song writing.[6] +His "Farewell to Ayrshire," commencing-- + + "Scenes of woe and scenes of pleasure, + Scenes that former thoughts renew; + Scenes of woe and scenes of pleasure, + Now a sad and last adieu! + Bonnie Doon sae sweet at gloaming, + Fare thee weel before I gang-- + Bonnie Doon where early roaming, + First I weaved the rustic sang"-- + +has been often printed, on account of its locality and associations, as +the composition of Burns. He is doubtless greatly inferior to Burns, and +not quite equal to Bruce or even Tannahill, but his verses possess great +sweetness, and contain some graphic and beautiful descriptions. This is +the case especially, with "Arthur's Seat," his longest and most +elaborate poem. As its sketches of scenery in and around Edinburgh, are +at once accurate and pleasing, and as it is entirely unknown in America, +we will take the liberty of quoting some of its finest passages. + +[Footnote 6: Tannahill was a weaver in Paisley. He excelled in song +writing. Under the pressure of poverty and deep depression of spirits he +committed suicide.] + +Gazing from Arthur's Seat, the poet invokes the genius of Burns-- + + "To sing ilk bonny bushy bower, + Adorned with many a wild-born flower; + Ilk burnie singing through the vale, + Where blooming hawthorns scent the gale; + And ilka sweet that nature yields, + In meadow wild or cultur'd fields; + The cultur'd fields where towering strang + The sturdy aik his shadows flang; + Where lonely Druids wont to rove, + The mystic tenants of the grove." + +He aptly and strikingly interweaves historical and poetical allusions. +The following contains a fine contrast, and a striking description of +the ruins of Craigmillar Castle, in the vicinity of Edinburgh. + + "Yes, ARTHUR, round thy velvet chair, + Ilk chequered picture blushes fair, + And mixed with nature's landscape green, + The varied works o' art are seen. + Here starts the splendid dome to view, + Mang sylvan haunts o' vernal hue; + There some auld lanely pile appears, + The mouldering wreck o' former years, + Whose tottering wa' nae mair can stand + Before fell Time's resistless hand; + Sic as Craigmillar's Castle gray, + That now fa's crumbling to decay, + A prey to ilka blast that blaws + An' whistles through its royal ha's-- + Where mirth ance burst with joyfu' sound + And melting music rang around, + Ah! there dull gloomy silence reigns, + The mossy grass creeps o'er the stanes, + And howlets loud at e'enin's fa', + Rejoice upon the ruined wa'." + +Craigmillar Castle naturally suggests the name of the beautiful and +unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots, who once resided within its lordly but +now forsaken halls. The poet therefore breaks out into the following +animated and pathetic strains, which, it has been said, will bear a +comparison with Mr. Burke's celebrated rhapsody on the unfortunate Queen +of France. + + "There was a time when woman's charms + Could fire the warlike world of arms, + And breed sic wae to auld and young, + As Helen wept and Homer sung, + But Mary o' ilk stay bereft, + Misfortune's luckless child was left; + Nae guileless friend to stem her grief, + The bursting sigh her whole relief.-- + O ye whose brave forefathers bled, + And oft the rage of battle led, + Wha rushing o'er the crimson field, + At Bannockburn made Edward yield; + Ye wha still led by glory's flame, + Make terror mix wi' Scotia's name-- + Where slept your dauntless valor keen + When danger met your injured Queen?" + +His descriptions of the Forth and the neighboring regions, of the +Pentland hills, and the scenery of the Esk, are strikingly beautiful. + + "What varied scenes, what prospects dear + In chequer'd landscape still appear! + What rural sweets profusely thrang + The flowery Links of Forth alang, + O'er whose proud shivering surface blue + Fife's woods and spires begirt the view; + Where Ceres gilds the fertile plain + An' richly waves the yellow grain, + An' Lomond hill wi' misty showers, + Aft weets auld Falkland's royal towers, + Nor distant far, upon the ear + The popling Leven wimples clear, + Whose ruined pile and glassy lake + Shall live in sang for Mary's sake.[7] + + * * * * * + + Return fond muse frae haunts sae fair, + To Lothian's shore return ance mair, + And let thy lyre be sweetly strung, + For peerless Esk remains unsung. + Romantic stream, what sweets combine + To deck ilk bank and bower o' thine! + For now the sun, wi' cheerfu' rays + Glows soft o'er a' thy woody braes, + Where mony a native wild flower's seen, + Mang birks and briars, and ivy green, + An' a' the woodland chorists sing + Or gleesome flit on wanton wing, + Save where the lintie mournfully + Sabs sair 'aneath the rowan tree, + To see her nest and young ones a' + By thoughtless reaver borne awa.' + + * * * * * + + What saftening thoughts resistless start, + And pour their influence o'er the heart; + What mingling scenes around appear + To musing meditation dear, + When wae we tent fair grandeur fa' + By Roslin's ruined Castle wa'![8] + O what is pomp? and what is power? + The silly phantoms of an hour! + Sae loudly ance from Roslin's brow[9] + The martial trump of grandeur blew, + While steel-clad vassals wont to wait + Their chieftain at the portalled gate; + And maidens fair, in vestments gay, + Bestrewed wi' flowers the warrior's way. + But now, ah me! how changed the scene! + Nae trophied ha', nae towers remain; + Nae torches bleeze wi' gladsome light, + A guiding star in dead o' night; + Nae voice is heard, save tinkling rill, + That echoes from the distant hill." + +[Footnote 7: The reference here is to the residence, or rather +imprisonment of Mary in Lochleven Castle.] + +[Footnote 8: Roslin Castle, on the banks of the Esk, about seven miles +from Edinburgh.] + +[Footnote 9: _Brow_, in Scotland, is often pronounced as if spelt +_brue_.] + +How exquisite, and how entirely and peculiarly Scottish is the +following: + + "Now tent the Pentlands westlin's seen, + O'erspread wi' flowery pastures green; + Where, stretching wide, the fleecy ewes[10] + Run bleating round the sunny knowes, + And mony a little silver rill + Steals gurgling down its mossy hill; + And vernal green is ilka tree + On bonny braes o' Woodhouselee." + +[Footnote 10: _Ewes_, pronounced as if it were _yowes_.] + +The genius of Scotland is one of freedom, of independent thought, and +unfettered action in matters civil and religious. This produced the +Reformation; this generated the recent secession from the 'Kirk;' this +characterizes the literature of the nation. We cannot, therefore, +refrain from making one more quotation, which breathes the lofty spirit +of freedom: + + "Alas! sic objects to behold, + Brings back the glorious days of old, + When Scotia's daring gallant train, + That ever spurned a tyrant's chain, + For dearest independence bled, + And nobly filled their gory bed-- + So o'er yon mountains stretching lang, + Their shields the sons of Freedom rang, + When Rome's ambition wild, burst forth, + An' roused the warriors of the north, + When CALGACH urged his dauntless train, + And freedom rush'd through ilka vein, + And close they met the haughty foe, + And laid fu' mony a tyrant low; + As fierce they fought, like freemen a', + Oh! glorious fought--yet fought to fa'! + They fell, and thou sweet LIBERTY, + Frae Grampia's blood-stained heights did flee, + And fixed thy seat remote, serene, + Mang Caledonia's mountains green. + Fair Maid! O may thy saftest smile + For ever cheer my native isle!" + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + Walk to the Castle--The old Wynds and their Occupants--Regalia of + Scotland--Storming of the Castle--Views from its Summit--Heriot's + Hospital--Other Hospitals--St. Giles's Cathedral--Changes--The + Spirit of Protestantism. + + +Let us now descend into the city. We will not linger long in old +Holyrood Palace, interesting as it is, nor dwell upon "the stains" of +Rizzio's blood in Queen Mary's room, as these have been described a +thousand times, and are familiar to every one. Neither will we spend +time in gazing upon the spot where once stood that quaint old gaol, +called "The Heart of Midlothian," made classic by the pen of Scott, in +the beautiful story of Jeanie Deans. Neither will we visit the old +"Parliament House" and the "Advocates' Library;" but we will pass right +up through High Street, amid those colossal buildings, rising, on either +side, to the height of six, seven, and even eight and ten stories, +swarming with inhabitants; and dive into one or two of those close, dark +wynds, where reside, in countless multitudes, the poorest and most +vicious of the people. Here, it must be confessed, are some strange +sights and appalling noises. Yet it is not quite so bad as some have +represented it. All large cities have their poor and vicious +inhabitants, and although those of the Scottish metropolis are +tolerably dirty and vastly degraded, they bear no comparison to the +lazzaroni of Naples and the beggars of Rome. Some of the streets and +wynds are narrow enough and vile enough, but they contain, after all, +many worthy people, who own a Bible, and read it too; and were you only +to become thoroughly acquainted with them, you would be surprised to +find how much of honesty and kindly affection still dwell in their +hearts. In ancient times the houses in these very "closes" or "wynds" +were inhabited by the nobility and gentry. Hence Grey's Close, +Morrison's Close, Stewart's Close, &c. They built their houses in these +narrow streets in order to be more secure from the attacks of their +enemies, and to be the better able to defend the principal thoroughfares +into which they opened. In Blythe's Close may be seen the remains of the +palace of the Queen Regent, Mary of Guise. In another stand the old +houses of the Earls of Gosford and Moray. One of the largest old palaces +is now inhabited by beggars and rats. + +It would be a great improvement if these miserable dwellings could be +removed, and replaced by better streets and houses; a still greater one, +if the people could only be induced to abandon the use of whiskey, for +then they would abandon their hovels as a matter of course. Their +besetting sin is the love of strong drink, though this has been +gradually diminishing for the last few years throughout Scotland. It is +to be hoped that the pious and moral portion of the community will unite +in a strong effort to reclaim this degraded class of their +fellow-townsmen, and that the time will speedily come when the only +reproach which rests upon their fair fame shall be wholly obliterated. + +But let us leave this region, the only unpleasant one in the whole of +this magnificent city, and ascend to the old Castle, where we shall see +the Regalia of Scotland, preserved in a little room at the top of the +Castle. These regalia consist of the crown of Robert Bruce the hero of +Bannockburn, the sceptre of James the Fifth, a sword presented by Pope +Julius the Second to James the Sixth, and other articles of inferior +note. It is somewhat singular that the Regalia should have lain +concealed from 1745 to the year 1818. At the time of the Union in 1707 +between England and Scotland, they were walled up by some Scottish +patriots, in order to prevent their being removed to London. + +What recollections of the stormy but glorious history of Scotland +cluster around the mind, while gazing at that antique-looking crown +which adorned the head of the Bruces and the ill-fated Mary. The freedom +and prosperity now enjoyed by the nation had a gloomy and tempestuous +birth. Their very religion, placid and beautiful now, was cradled amid +the war of elements and the shock of battle. But, thanks to God, it is +all the purer and stronger for its rough and tempestuous youth. + +Draw near to the edge of that battlement, and look down over the +frowning rock. Would it be possible, think you, to storm the Castle from +that side? One would suppose it beyond the power of man. It has been +done, however, and the circumstance illustrates the spirit of hardihood +and enterprise which has ever distinguished the people of Scotland. In +the year 1313, when the Castle was in the possession of the English, +Randolph, Earl of Moray, was one day surveying the gigantic rock, when +he was accosted by one of his men at arms with the question, "Do you +think it impracticable, my lord?" Randolph turned his eyes upon the +speaker, a man a little past the prime of life, but of a firm well-knit +figure, and bearing in his keen eye and open forehead marks of +intrepidity which had already gained him distinction in the Scottish +army. "Do you mean the rock, Francis?" said the Earl; "perhaps not, if +we could borrow the wings of our gallant hawks."[11] + +[Footnote 11: We give the version of Leitch Ritchie, who has thrown the +facts into the form of a dialogue, and given a false name to the hero; +otherwise the narration is entirely authentic.] + +"There are wings," replied Francis, with a thoughtful smile, "as strong, +as buoyant, and as daring. My father was keeper of yonder fortress." + +"What of that? You speak in riddles." + +"I was then young, reckless, high-hearted: I was screwed up in that +convent-like castle; my sweetheart was in the plain below"-- + +"Well, what then?" + +"'Sdeath, my lord, can you not imagine that I speak of the wings of +love? Every night I descended that steep at the witching hour, and every +morning before the dawn I crept back to my barracks. I constructed a +light twelve-foot ladder, by means of which I was able to pass the +places that are perpendicular; and so well, at length, did I become +acquainted with the route, that in the darkest and stormiest night, I +found my way as easily as when the moonlight enabled me to see my love +in the distance waiting for me at the cottage door." + +"You are a daring, desperate, noble fellow, Francis! However, your +motive is now gone; your mistress"-- + +"She is dead; say no more; but another has taken her place." + +"Ay, ay, it's the soldier's way. Women will die or even grow old; and +what are we to do? Come, who is your mistress now?" + +"MY COUNTRY! What I have done for love, I can do again for honor; and +what I can accomplish, you, noble Randolph, and many of our comrades can +do far better. Give me thirty picked men, and a twelve-foot ladder, and +the fortress is our own!" + +"The Earl of Moray, whatever his real thoughts of the enterprise might +have been, was not the man to refuse such a challenge. A ladder was +provided, and thirty men chosen from the troops; and in the middle of a +dark night, the party, commanded by Randolph himself, and guided by +William Francis, set forth on their desperate enterprise. + +"By catching at crag after crag, and digging their fingers into the +interstices of the rocks, they succeeded in mounting a considerable way; +but the weather was now so thick, they could receive but little +assistance from their eyes; and thus they continued to climb, almost in +utter darkness, like men struggling up a precipice in the night-mare. +They at length reached a shelving table of the cliff, above which the +ascent, for ten or twelve feet, was perpendicular; and having fixed +their ladder, the whole party lay down to recover breath. + +"From this place they could hear the tread and voices of the 'check +watches,' or patrol, above; and, surrounded by the perils of such a +moment, it is not wonderful that some illusions may have mingled with +their thoughts. They even imagined that they were seen from the +battlements, although, being themselves unable to see the warders, this +was highly improbable. It became evident, notwithstanding, from the +words they caught here and there in the pauses of the night-wind, that +the conversation of the English soldiers above related to a surprise of +the Castle; and at length these appalling words broke like thunder on +their ears: 'Stand! I see you well!' A fragment of the rock was hurled +down at the same instant; and as rushing from crag to crag it bounded +over their heads, Randolph and his brave followers, in this wild, +helpless, and extraordinary situation, felt the damp of mortal terror +gathering upon their brow, as they clung with a death-grip to the +precipice. + +"The startled echoes of the rock were at length silent, and so were the +voices above. The adventurers paused, listening breathless; no sound was +heard but the sighing of the wind, and the measured tread of the +sentinel who had resumed his walk. The men thought they were in a +dream, and no wonder; for the incident just mentioned, which is related +by Barbour, was one of the most singular coincidences that ever +occurred. The shout of the sentinel and the missile he had thrown, were +merely a boyish freak; and while listening to the echoes of the rock, he +had not the smallest idea that the sounds which gave pleasure to him +carried terror and almost despair into the hearts of the enemy. + +"The adventurers, half uncertain whether they were not the victims of +some illusion, determined that it was as safe to go on as to turn back; +and pursuing their laborious and dangerous path, they at length reached +the bottom of the wall. This last barrier they scaled by means of their +ladder; and leaping down among the astonished check-watches, they cried +their war-cry, and in the midst of answering shouts of 'treason! +treason!' notwithstanding the desperate resistance of the garrison, +captured the Castle of Edinburgh." + +Sit down here on the edge of this parapet. That huge cannon there is +called Mons Meg, from being cast at _Mons_, in Flanders, and reminds us, +somewhat significantly, of the terrible use to which all the +arrangements of the Castle are applied.[12] How singular, that men have +to be governed and controlled like bull-dogs, that castles and dungeons, +halters, and cannon, are necessary to keep them from stealing each +other's property, or cutting each other's throats! Surely mankind have +ills enough to bear without turning upon each other like tigers. + +[Footnote 12: At present it is used as a barracks for soldiers and a +magazine of arms.] + + "Many and sharp the numerous ills, + Inwoven with our frame! + More pointed still we make ourselves, + Regret, remorse, and shame; + And man, whose heaven-erected face + The smiles of love adorn, + Man's inhumanity to man + Makes countless thousands mourn." + + BURNS. + +But all is quiet now. The tendency of the times is to peace; and +Edinburgh Castle, Mons Meg, and the whole array of cannon bristling over +the precipice, are but objects of natural curiosity or of poetical +interest. + +Do you see yonder turreted building, with high pointed gables and +castellated walls, in the Elizabethan style, just beyond the Grass +Market. That is George Heriot's Hospital, one of the proudest monuments +of the city, and one of the most beautiful symbols of its peaceful +prosperity. It was founded by the rich and benevolent George Heriot, +jeweller to King James the Sixth, "Jingling Geordie," as he is quaintly +termed in the "Fortunes of Nigel." It is of vast extent, as you +perceive, and presents a good specimen of the mixed style of +architecture prevalent in the days of Queen Mary. The object of this +noble institution is the maintenance and education of poor and +fatherless boys, or of boys in indigent circumstances, "freemen's sons +of the town of Edinburgh." Of these, one hundred and eighty receive +ample board and education within its walls. By this means they are +thoroughly prepared for the active business of life, each receiving +at his dismissal a Bible, and other useful books, with two suits of +clothes chosen by himself. Those going out as apprentices are allowed +$50 per annum for five years, and $25 at the termination of their +apprenticeship. Boys of superior scholarship are permitted to stay +longer in the institution, and are fitted for college. For this purpose +they receive $150 per annum, for four years. Connected with this +institution are seven free schools, in the different parishes of the +city, for the support of which its surplus funds are applied. In these +upwards of two thousand children receive a good common school education. +The girls, in addition to the ordinary branches, are taught knitting and +sewing. + +In addition to these provisions for the education of the poor, there are +also ten "bursaries," or university scholarships, open to the +competition of young men, not connected with the institution. The +successful candidates receive $100 per annum for four years. No wonder +that Sir Walter Scott felt authorized to put into the mouth of the +princely founder of these charities the striking sentiment: "I think +mine own estate and memory, as I shall order it, has a fair chance of +outliving those of greater men." + +Edinburgh abounds in charitable hospitals, and particularly in free +educational institutions, in the support of which the citizens evince a +laudable enthusiasm. Thus, for example, we have Watson's Hospital, the +Merchant Maiden's Hospital, the Trades' Maiden Hospital, Trinity College +Hospital, Cauvin's Hospital, a little out of the city; Gillespie's +Hospital, Donaldson's Hospital, Chalmers's Hospital, the House of +Refuge, the House of Industry, the Strangers' Friend Society, the +Institution for the Relief of poor old Men, and another for the Relief +of indigent old Women, and many others. + +Below us, on one side of High Street, you see the fine old Gothic +Cathedral of St. Giles. It was founded in the twelfth or thirteenth +century, and named after St. Giles, abbot and confessor, and tutelar +saint of Edinburgh in the olden time. The Scottish poet, Gavin Douglas, +bishop of Dunkeld, was sometime provost of St. Giles. He translated +Virgil into English, the first version of a classic ever made in +Britain, and was the author of "The Palace of Honor," from which some +have absurdly supposed that John Bunyan borrowed the idea of the +"Pilgrim's Progress." This edifice is interesting, chiefly as connecting +the past with the present condition of Scotland, and indicating the +mighty transitions through which it has passed. In the fifteenth century +incense ascended from forty different altars within its walls; now it +contains three Protestant places of worship. Once it enshrined the +relics of St. Giles; now its cemetery contains the body of John Knox! On +the 13th of October, 1643, "the solemn League and Covenant" was sworn to +and subscribed within its walls, by the Committee of the Estates of +Parliament, the Commission of the Church, and the English Commission. +The sacred vessels and relics which it contained, including the arm-bone +of the patron saint, were seized by the magistrates of the city, and the +proceeds of their sale applied to the repairing of the building. +Puritanism has thus often showed itself a rough and tempestuous +reformer; nevertheless it possesses wonderful vitality, and has +conferred upon Scotland the blessings of civil and religious liberty. +Its outer form is often hard and defective, and its movements irregular +and convulsive, but its inner spirit is ever generous and free. Its +rudeness and excess none will approve; its life, energy, and activity, +all will admire. It came forth, like a thunder-cloud, from the +mountains. Its quick lightning-flashes went crashing amid the old images +of papal worship. The atmosphere of spiritual pollution was agitated and +purified. Upon the parched ground fell gentle and refreshing showers. +The sun of freedom began to smile upon hill and valley, and the whole +land rejoiced under its placid influence. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + John Knox's House--History of the Reformer--His + Character--Carlyle's View--Testimony of John Milton. + + +Let us now descend from the Castle, and, passing down High Street, turn +to the left, at the head of the Nether-bow, where we shall see the house +of that stern but glorious old reformer, John Knox. There it is, looking +mean enough now among those miserable gin-shops, paint-shops, and so +forth; yet hallowed by the recollections of the past. Over the door is +an inscription, invisible from the numerous sign-boards that cover it, +containing the spirit and essence of that lofty Puritanism which Knox +preached: + + "LUFE . GOD . ABOVE . ALL . AND . YOUR . NICHBOUR . AS . YOURSELF." + +In this house Knox lived many years; here also he died in holy triumph; +and from that little window he is said frequently to have addressed the +populace. A rude stone effigy of the Reformer may be seen at the corner, +and near it, cut in the stone, the name of God, in Greek, Latin, and +English. It is gratifying to know that measures have recently been taken +to erect a monument to Knox, near this spot, which shall be worthy of +his memory. + +The character of Knox has been terribly blackened by heartless and +infidel historians, and especially by sickly sentimentalists of the +Werter school. Nevertheless, he was a noble-hearted, truth-loving, +sham-hating, God-fearing, self-sacrificing man; a hero in the proper +sense of the word, a minister of righteousness, an angel of Reform. Not, +indeed, a soft, baby-faced, puling sentimentalist; but a lofty, +iron-hearted man, who "never feared the face of clay," and did God's +will, in spite of devils, popes, and kings. His history possesses the +deepest and most romantic interest. It is one of the most magnificent +passages in Scottish story. Bruce battled for a crown; Knox battled for +the truth. Both conquered, after long toils and struggles; and conquered +mainly by the might of their single arm. But the glory which irradiates +the head of the Reformer far outshines that of the hero of Bannockburn, +for the latter is earthly and evanescent; the former celestial and +immortal. + +John Knox was born in Haddington, not far from Edinburgh, of poor but +honest parents, in the year 1505; grew up in solitude; was destined for +the church; received a thorough collegiate education; became an honest +friar; wore the monk's cowl for many years; adopted silently and +unostentatiously the principles of the Protestant Reformation; spent +much of his time in teaching, and in the prosecution of liberal studies, +of which he was considered a master; was suddenly and unexpectedly +called, at St. Andrews, by the unanimous voice of his brethren, to the +preaching of the Word, and the defence of their religious liberties; +after a brief struggle with himself yielded to the call, nobly threw +himself into the breach, at the hazard of his life, attacked "Papal +idolatry" with unsparing vigor, was seized by the authorities, and sent +a prisoner to France in 1547, where he worked in the galleys as a slave, +but evermore maintaining his lofty courage and cheerful hope; was set at +liberty two years afterwards; preached in England in the time of Edward +the Sixth; refused a bishopric from the best of kings; retired to the +continent at the accession of Mary, residing chiefly at Geneva and +Frankfort; returned to Scotland in 1555; labored with indomitable +perseverance to establish Protestantism; rebuked the great for +immorality, profaneness and rapacity, and succeeded in greatly +strengthening the cause of truth and freedom. At the earnest +solicitation of the English congregation in Geneva, he went thither a +second time; there he published "The First Blast of the Trumpet against +the Monstrous Regiment (Government) of Women," directed principally +against Mary, Queen of England, and Mary of Guise, Regent of Scotland, +two narrow-minded miserable despots; returned to Scotland in 1559; +continued his exertions in behalf of Christ's truth; did much to +establish common schools; finally saw Protestantism triumphant in +Scotland; and died in 1572, so poor that his family had scarce +sufficient to bury him, but with the universal love and homage of his +countrymen, a conscience void of offence, and a hope full of +immortality. "He had a sore fight of an existence; wrestling with popes +and principalities; in defeat, contention, life-long struggle; rowing as +a galley-slave, wandering as an exile. A sore fight, but he won it. +'Have you hope?' they asked him in his last moment when he could no +longer speak. He lifted his finger, 'pointed upwards with his finger,' +and so died. Honor to him! His works have not died. The letter of his +work dies, as of all men's; but the spirit of it never."[13] + +[Footnote 13: Carlyle--"Hero Worship," p. 174.] + +Knox has been much abused for his violent treatment of Queen Mary. His +addresses and appeals to her have been characterized as impudent and +cruel; but, thoroughly inspected, they will be found the reverse. Strong +and startling they were, but neither impudent nor cruel. Doubtless they +fell upon her ear like the tones of some old prophet, sternly rebuking +sin, or vindicating the rights of God. Mary was a woman of matchless +beauty; and had she been educated differently, might have blessed the +world with the mild lustre of her Scottish reign; but she was the dupe +of bad counsels, in spirit and practice a despot, the plaything of +passion, and the reckless opposer of the best interests of her country. +Her beauty and sufferings have shed a false lustre over her character; +above all, have aided in concealing the terrible stain of infidelity to +her marriage vows, and the implied murder of her wretched husband, +charges which her apologists can extenuate, but not deny. But, forsooth, +it is an insufferable thing for a plain honest-hearted man like John +Knox to tell the truth to such an one! She was young, beautiful, +fascinating; and however recklessly, madly, ruinously wrong, he must +not advise her--above all, must not warn her! Now, such a notion may +possibly commend itself to your "absolute gentlemen, of very soft +society, full of most excellent differences and great showing; indeed, +to speak feelingly of them, who are the card and calendar of gentry;" +but it cannot be imposed upon our plain common sense. Mary was a queen, +however, and John Knox a poor plebeian! Aye, aye! that is a difficulty! +Kings and queens may do what they please. The people are made for them, +not they for the people. And sure enough it is a vulgar thing to oppose +them in their ambitious schemes, or to tell them the honest truth +be-times! Poor John Knox! thou must fall down and worship "a painted +bredd" after all. A beautiful queen must be spared, if Scotland should +perish. But looking at the matter from the free atmosphere of New +England, we maintain that John Knox was of higher rank than Mary Queen +of Scots. He was more true, more heroic, more kingly, than all the race +of the Stuarts. He had a right, in God's name, to speak the truth, "to +reprove, rebuke, and exhort, with all long-suffering." Hence, though his +words were stern and appalling, they were uttered with a kind and +generous intention. "Madame," said Knox, when he saw Mary burst into +tears from vexation and grief, "in God's presence I speak; I never +delighted in the weeping of any of God's creatures, yea, _I can scarcely +well abide the tears of mine own boys_, when mine own hands correct +them, much less can I rejoice in your Majesty's weeping; but seeing I +have offered unto you no just occasion to be offended, I must sustain +your Majesty's tears, rather than I dare hurt my conscience, or betray +the commonwealth by silence." + +Yes, he was a stern old puritan, a lion of a man, who made terrible +havoc among the "painted bredds" of Popery, and turned back the fury of +wild barons and persecuting priests. "His single voice," says Randolph, +"could put more life into a host than six hundred blustering trumpets." +Single handed, he met the rage of a disappointed government and an +infuriated priesthood, and conquered by the silent might of his +magnanimous audacity. In the wildest whirl of contending emotion, he +never lost sight of the great end of his being, as a servant of God, nor +swerved a hair's breadth from truth and right. + +Yet this stern old Covenanter was not without a touch of gentleness and +even of hilarity. He loved his home, his children, and his friends. An +honest, quiet laugh often mantled his pale earnest visage. "They go far +wrong," says Carlyle, whose thorough appreciation of such men as Luther, +Cromwell, and Knox, is truly refreshing amid the vapid inanities or +coarse prejudices of ordinary historians, "who think that Knox was a +gloomy, spasmodic, shrieking fanatic. Not at all. He is one of the +solidest of men. Practical, cautious, hopeful, patient; a most shrewd, +observing, quietly discerning man. In fact, he has very much the type of +character we assign to the Scotch at present: a certain sardonic +taciturnity is in him; insight enough; and a stouter heart than he +himself knows of. * * An honest-hearted, brotherly man; brother to the +high, brother also to the low; sincere in his sympathy with both." + +Knox, doubtless, had his faults; and what of that? He made some +mistakes! and what, too, of that? Was he not a true man, and a true +minister of God's Word? Did he not accomplish a great and beneficial +work of Reform; and, having done this, did he not die a sweet and +triumphant death? God has set his seal upon him, and upon his work; and +that is enough for us. + +We hesitate not, with Carlyle, to name the Reformation under Knox as the +great era in Scottish history, as the one glorious event which gave life +to the nation. Thence resulted freedom, activity, purity of morals, +science, national and individual greatness. Previous to this event +Scotland possessed only a rough, tumultuous physical life; her +politics--dissensions and executions; her religion--a puerile +superstition;--her literature--ballads and monkish legends; her +joy--hunting, fighting, and drinking! But the Reformation breathed into +her the breath of a spiritual existence. Her national prosperity dates +from that era. Thence proceeded faith and order, education, industry, +and wealth. "It was not a smooth business; but it was welcome surely, +and cheap at that price, had it been far rougher. On the whole, cheap at +any price, as life is. The people began to _live_; they needed first of +all to _do that_, at what cost and costs soever. Scottish literature and +thought, Scotch industry, James Watt, David Hume, Walter Scott, Robert +Burns. I find Knox and the Reformation acting in the heart's core of +every one of these persons and phenomena; I find that, without the +Reformation, they would not have been. Or what of Scotland? The +Puritanism of Scotland became that of England, of New England. A tumult +in the High Church of Edinburgh spread into a universal battle and +struggle over all these realms; and there came out of it, after fifty +years' struggling, what we all call 'the Glorious Revolution,' a Habeas +Corpus Act, Free Parliaments, and much else." + +It has become fashionable of late, in certain quarters, to undervalue +the Reformation, and contemn those great and rugged spirits by whom it +was accomplished. A sentimental, baby-hearted, superstition-smitten +generation, cannot appreciate those mighty men, and mightier reforms of +the olden time. But how well and worthily does the large-hearted and +ethereal Milton speak of it: "When I recall to mind, at last, after so +many dark ages, wherein the huge over-shadowing train of error had +almost swept all the stars out of the firmament of the church; how the +bright and blissful Reformation, by Divine power, struck through the +black and settled night of ignorance and anti-Christian tyranny, +methinks a sovereign and reviving joy must needs rush into the bosom of +him that reads or hears, and the sweet odor of the returning Gospel +imbathe his soul with the fragrancy of Heaven. Then was the sacred Bible +sought out of the dusty corners, where profane falsehood and neglect +had thrown it, the schools opened, divine and human learning raked out +of the embers of forgotten tongues; the princes and cities trooping +apace to the new-erected banner of salvation; the martyrs, with the +unresistible might of weakness, shaking the powers of darkness, and +scorning the fiery rage of the red old dragon."[14] A noble testimony +like this far outweighs all the cant of a whining sentimentalism. Its +truth, as well as its eloquence, all must admit. + +[Footnote 14: "Of Reformation in England." By John Milton.] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + Edinburgh University--Professor Wilson--His Life and Writings, + Genius and Character. + + +We will now re-enter High Street, and thence turn at right angles into +South-bridge Street, and proceed to the University. It is a large and +imposing structure, but fails to produce its proper impression from the +circumstance of being wedged in among such a mass of other buildings. We +enter by a magnificent portico on the right, supported by Doric columns, +twenty-six feet in height, each formed of a single block of stone, and +find ourselves in a spacious quadrangular court, surrounded by the +various college edifices. The buildings are of free stone, beautifully +polished, and of recent erection, the old buildings, which were +unsightly and incommodious, having been taken down to make way for this +elegant and spacious structure. The University itself was founded by +King James the Sixth, in the year 1582, and has enjoyed uninterrupted +prosperity to the present time. The average number of students is from +ten to twelve hundred. The Rev. Dr. Lee, one of the most amiable and +learned men, is at present Principal of the University, and the various +chairs are filled by gentlemen of distinguished talent. The students are +not resident within the college, but choose their boarding-houses, at +pleasure, in any part of the city. They are not distinguished, as at +Glasgow and Oxford by any peculiar badge; are of all ages, and enjoy the +liberty of selecting the classes which they attend. Those however who +take degrees are required to attend a particular course, but this is not +done by more than one-half or at most two-thirds of the students. The +government of the University is not particularly strict. The +examinations are limited and imperfect; and hence it is very possible +for a young man to slip through the University, without contracting any +great tincture of scholarship. It is mainly the talent of the +professors, and the high literary enthusiasm they inspire, which sustain +the institution. There are thirty-four foundations for bursaries or +scholarships, the benefit of which is extended to eighty students. The +aggregate amount is about fifty dollars a year, for each. The Annual +Session lasts from October to May, with an occasional holiday, and a +week or two's vacation at Christmas. The rest of the year which includes +most of the summer and autumn is vacation, which gives the professors an +opportunity for rest and preparation, and the students facilities either +for private study, or for teaching and other employments. This order +prevails in all the other Scottish Universities, and is attended with +many advantages. But a truce to general remarks. + +We have not time to visit the Museum, which is quite extensive and +admirably arranged, nor the Library, which is distinguished by its ample +dimensions and beautiful decorations. Neither can we dwell upon the +celebrated men who have encircled this Institution with a halo of +literary and scientific glory. But we will step into that door in front +of us, ascend the stairs, and enter the lecture-room of Professor +Wilson, the far famed "Christopher North," poet and novelist, orator, +critic and philosopher. The young gentlemen have assembled, but the +Professor has not yet come in. Good looking but noisy fellows these! +Some of them, you perceive, are very young, others are considerably +advanced in years. Most of them are well dressed, some poorly so. A few +look studious and care-worn, but the majority hearty and joyous. How +their clear loud laugh rings through the hall! They are from all ranks +of society, some being the sons of noblemen, others of farmers and +mechanics. Most of them probably have wherewithal to pay their college +expenses, but not a few, you may rely on it, are sorely pinched. The +Scots are an ambitious, study-loving race, and quite a number of these +young men are struggling up from the depths of poverty; and if they do +not die in the effort, will be heard of, one of these days, in the +pulpit, or at the bar. + +But there comes the Professor, bowing graciously to the students, while +he receives from them a hearty "ruff," as the Scots call their energetic +stamping. What a magnificent looking man! Over six feet high, broad and +brawny, but of elegant proportions, with a clear, frank, joyous looking +face, a few wrinkles only around the eye, in other respects hale and +smooth, his fine locks sprinkled with gray, flowing down to his +shoulders, and his large lustrous eye beaming with a softened fire. His +subject is "the Passions." He commences with freedom and ease, but +without any particular energy,--makes his distinctions well, but without +much precision or force; for, to tell the honest truth, philosophical +analysis is not his particular forte. Still, it is good, so far as it +goes, and probably appears inferior chiefly by contrast. But he begins +to describe. The blood mantles to his forehead, thrown back with a +majestic energy, and his fine eye glows, nay, absolutely burns. And now +his impassioned intellect careers, as on the wings of the wind, leaping, +bounding, dashing, whirling, over hill and dale, rises into the clear +empyrean, and bathes itself in the beams of the sun. His audience is +intent, hushed, absorbed, rapt! He begins, however, to descend, and O! +how beautifully, like a falcon from "the lift," or an eagle from the +storm-cloud. And, now he skims along the surface with bird-like wing, +glancing in the sunlight, swiftly and gracefully. How varied and +delicate his language, how profuse his images, his allusions how +affecting, and his voice, ringing like a bell among the mountains. At +such seasons his style, manner and tone, are unequalled. Chaste and +exhilarating as the dew of the morning in the vale of Strathmore, yet +rich and rare as a golden sunset on the brow of Benlomond. But listen, +he returns to his philosophical distinctions,--fair, very fair, to be +sure, but nothing special, rather clumsy perhaps, except in regard to +his language. True, undoubtedly, but not profound, not deeply +philosophical, and to me, not particularly interesting. His auditors +have time to breathe. You hear an occasional cough, or blowing of the +nose. A few of the students are diligently taking notes, but the rest +are listless. This will last only a moment, and now that he is +approaching the close of his lecture, he will give us something worth +hearing. There, again he is out upon the open sea. How finely the sails +are set, and with what a majestic sweep the noble vessel rounds the +promontory, and anchors itself in the bay.[15] + +[Footnote 15: The writer describes not an imaginary, but an actual +lecture of Professor Wilson's, which he heard some years ago. + +We have honestly given our own impressions relative to Wilson's +metaphysical powers, and stated simply what we heard and saw while +attending his Lectures in Edinburgh University. Others however may have +different impressions; and we cheerfully append the following from +_Gilfillan_ as an offset to our strictures: + +"It is probable that the very variety and versatility of Wilson's powers +have done him an injury in the estimation of many. They can hardly +believe that an actor, who can play so many parts, is perfect in all. +Because he is, confessedly, one of the most eloquent of men, it is +doubted whether he can be profound: because he is a fine poet, he must +be a shallow metaphysician;--because he is the Editor of _Blackwood_, he +must be an inefficient professor. There is such a thing on this round +earth, as diffusion along with depth, as the versatile and vigorous mind +of a man of genius mastering a multitude of topics, while others are +blunderingly acquiring one, or as a man 'multiplying himself among +mankind, the Proteus of their talents,' and proving that the Voltairian +activity of brain has been severed, in one splendid instance, at least, +from the Voltairian sneer and the Voltairian shallowness. Such an +instance as that of our illustrious Professor, who is ready for every +tack,--who can, at one time, scorch a poetaster to a cinder, at another +cast illumination into the 'dark deep holds' of a moral question, by a +glance of his genius; at one time dash off the picture of a Highland +glen, with the force of a Salvator, at another, lay bare the anatomy of +a passion with the precision and force of an Angelo,--write, now, the +sweetest verse, and now the most energetic prose,--now let slip, from +his spirit, a single star, like the 'evening cloud,' and now unfurl a +_Noctes_ upon the wondering world,--now paint Avarice till his audience +are dying with laughter, and now Emulation and Sympathy till they are +choked with tears,--write now 'the Elder's Deathbed,' and now the +'Address to a Wild Deer,'--be equally at home in describing the +Sufferings of an Orphan girl, and the undressing of a dead Quaker, by a +congregation of ravens, under the brow of Helvellyn."--_Literary +Portraits_, p. 209.] + +Instead of spending our time gazing at public buildings, let us continue +our conversation about the Professor, whose life has been a tissue of +interesting and romantic events. We shall find it profitable as well as +pleasant, to glance at the principal points in his history, as they tend +to throw light on the Genius of Scotland. + +John Wilson is the oldest son of a wealthy manufacturer in the city of +Paisley, and was born there in the year 1788, and is now therefore +fifty-eight years of age. He was reared and educated, with almost +patrician indulgence, and inherited from his father a considerable +amount of property, variously estimated from twenty to fifty thousand +pounds sterling. Of course he enjoyed the best facilities for acquiring +a thorough and polished education. His instructor in classical learning +was Mr. Peddie of Paisley, to whom a public dinner was given in 1831 by +his friends and pupils. Professor Wilson was present, and on proposing +the health of his venerable preceptor, delivered a brilliant oration, +not the least interesting portion of which had reference to his somewhat +erratic course at school. "Sometimes," said he, "I sat as dux--sometimes +in the middle of the class--and I am obliged to confess, that on some +unfortunate occasions, I was absolutely _dolt_!" The confession was +received, of course, with roars of laughter. + +From this school he was entered at the University of Glasgow, when he +was little more than thirteen years of age. But he was tall for his +years, and possessed an original and remarkably exuberant mind; and +though distinguished at this time, more for the vigor of his physical +constitution, and the buoyancy of his spirits, than for any particular +attainments in literature, he generally kept his standing among his +fellow students, many of whom were greatly his seniors. + +From Glasgow he was transferred to Oxford, and here he first +distinguished himself as a man of genius. He contended in the annual +competition for the Newdigate prize of fifty guineas for the best fifty +lines of English verse, and though the contest was open to not less than +two thousand individuals, he carried off the palm from every competitor. + +At Oxford as at Glasgow he was distinguished for his fine athletic +frame, his joyous and even boisterous spirits, and his excessive +devotion to all sorts of gymnastics, field sports and frolicking. This +however was blended with an extraordinary devotion to literature, and a +peculiar simplicity and frankness of character, which rendered him a +universal favorite. It is well known that at Oxford great latitude is +enjoyed, especially by "gentlemen commoners," as they are called, to +which class Wilson chose to belong. It is expected that the "gentlemen +commoners" shall wear a more splendid costume,--spend a good deal more +money,--and enjoy various immunities, which amount occasionally to a +somewhat unbridled license. "Once launched on this orbit," says a fellow +student of Wilson's, writing to a friend in America, "Mr. Wilson +continued to blaze away for four successive years. * * * Never did a +man, by variety of talents and variety of humors, contrive to place +himself as the connecting link between orders of men so essentially +repulsive of each other; from the learned president of his college, Dr. +Routh, the Editor of parts of Plato, and of some theological selections, +with whom Wilson enjoyed unlimited favor, down to the humblest student. +In fact from this learned Academic Doctor, and many others of the same +class, ascending and descending, he possessed an infinite gamut of +friends and associates, running through every key; and the diapason +closing full in groom, cobbler, stable boy, barber's apprentice, with +every shade and hue of blackguard and ruffian. In particular, amongst +this latter kind of worshipful society, there was no man who had any +talents, real or fancied, for thumping, or being thumped, but had +experienced some taste of his merits from Mr. Wilson. All other +pretensions in the gymnastic arts he took a pride in humbling or in +honoring, but chiefly did his examinations fall upon pugilism; and not a +man who could either 'give,' or 'take,' but boasted to have been +punished by Wilson of _Mallens_ (corruption of Magdalen) College." + +Whether the statement of Wilson's pugilistic attainments is not somewhat +exaggerated we have not the means of deciding. All reports however go to +confirm its general accuracy. His career was certainly a wild and +hazardous one, and would have ruined an ordinary man. But underlying the +wild exuberance of Wilson's nature, there was a solid foundation of good +feeling and good sense, which ever and anon manifested itself, and +finally formed the principal element of his character. Besides, he could +never forget the holy instructions of his childhood. Scotland throws a +thousand sacred influences around the hearts of her children; and hence, +wild and wayward in their youth, they not unfrequently live to be the +safeguards of virtue and the ornaments of society. + +It may be well supposed that on leaving Oxford, in the very hey-day of +youth, with an amazing exuberance of animal spirits, and the command of +an ample fortune, he must have run a somewhat extravagant career. He +purchased a beautiful estate on the banks of Windermere, not far from +the residences of Southey, Coleridge and Wordsworth, and yielded himself +to the full enjoyment of every pleasure. Having built upon his estate a +new and splendid edifice, he furnished it with every appliance of taste +and luxury, and succeeded by his "magnificent" style of housekeeping, +in spending a large amount of his property. He gave himself up to the +most diversified pursuits, now conning his literary treasures, and now +frolicking in sailor jacket and trowsers, with the young men of the +country. + +The following, from a writer already quoted, will give a lively idea of +Wilson's habits and appearance, at this period of his life. "My +introduction to him--setting apart the introducee himself--was memorable +from one circumstance, viz., the person of the introducer. _William +Wordsworth_, it was, who in the vale of Grasmere, if it can interest you +to know the place, and in the latter end of 1808, if you can be supposed +to care about the time, did me the favor of making me known to John +Wilson. I remember the whole scene as circumstantially as if it belonged +to but yesterday. In the vale of Grasmere--that peerless little vale +which you, and Gray, the poet, and so many others have joined in +admiring as the very Eden of English beauty, peace, and pastoral +solitude--you may possibly recall, even from that flying glimpse you had +of it, a modern house called Allan Bank, standing under a low screen of +woody rocks, which descend from the hill of Silver Horn, on the western +side of the lake. This house had been recently built by a wealthy +merchant of Liverpool; but for some reason, of no importance to you or +me, not being immediately wanted for the family of the owner, had been +let for a term of three years to Mr. Wordsworth. At the time I speak of, +both Mr. Coleridge and myself were on a visit to Mr. Wordsworth, and +one room on the ground floor, designed for a breakfasting room, which +commands a sublime view of the three mountains, Fairfield, Arthur's +Chair, and Seat Sandal, was then occupied by Mr. Coleridge as a study. +On this particular day, the sun having only just risen, it naturally +happened that Mr. Coleridge--whose nightly vigils were long--had not yet +come down to breakfast; meantime and until the epoch of the Coleridgean +breakfast should arrive, his study was lawfully disposable to profane +uses. Here, therefore, it was, that opening the door hastily in quest of +a book, I found seated, and in earnest conversation, two gentlemen, one +of them my host, Mr. Wordsworth, at that time about thirty-eight years +old; the other was a younger man, by at least sixteen or seventeen +years, in a sailor's dress, manifestly in robust health--_fervidus +juventa_, and wearing upon his countenance a powerful expression of +ardor and animated intelligence, mixed with much good nature. _Mr. +Wilson of Elleray_--delivered as the formula of introduction, in the +deep tones of Mr. Wordsworth--at once banished the momentary surprise I +felt on finding an unknown stranger where I had expected nobody, and +substituted a surprise of another kind. I now understood who it was that +I saw; and there was no wonder in his being at Allan Bank, as Elleray +stood within nine miles; but (as usually happens in such cases) I felt a +shock of surprise on seeing a person so little corresponding to the one +I had half unconsciously prefigured to myself." + +Mr. Wilson here appears in a comparatively grave and dignified aspect. +The same writer describes him in quite a different scene. Walking in the +morning, he met him, with a parcel of young "harum skarum" fellows on +horseback, chasing an honest bull, which had been driven off in the +night from his peaceful meadow, to furnish sport to these "wild +huntsmen." About this time, also, he was the leader of a "boating club," +which involved him in great expense. They had no less than two or three +establishments for their boats and boat-men, and innumerable appendages, +which cost each of them annually a little fortune. The number of their +boats was so great as to form a little fleet, while some of them were +quite large and expensive. One of these in particular, a ten-oared +barge, was believed at the time to have cost over two thousand dollars. +In consequence of these and other expenses, and perhaps the loss of some +of his patrimony by the failure of a trustee, subjected him to the +necessity of seeking a change of life. This led to his becoming a +candidate for the chair of Moral Philosophy in the University of +Edinburgh. + +Previous to this he had formed plans of extensive travel. One was a +voyage of exploration to Central Africa and the sources of the Nile. +Another was concocted with two of his friends, with whom he proposed to +sail from Falmouth to the Tagus, and landing wherever accident or fancy +might determine, to purchase mules, hire Spanish servants, and travel +extensively in Spain and Portugal, for eight or nine months; then, by +such of the islands in the Mediterranean as particularly attracted them, +they were to pass over into Greece, and thence to Constantinople. +Finally, they were to have visited the Troad, Syria, Egypt, and perhaps +Nubia! + +But the reduction of his means, and his marriage with a young and +beautiful English lady, to whom he was greatly attached, broke up these +extravagant schemes. His marriage took place in 1810. Two sons and three +daughters were the fruits of it; and the connection has doubtless proved +one of the happiest events in the Professor's life. Death however has +entered this delightful circle. "How characteristic of him," says +Gilfillan, "and how affecting, was his saying to his students, in +apology for not returning their essays at the usual time, 'I could not +see to read them in the Valley and the Shadow of Death.'" + +His application in 1820 for the professorship of Moral Philosophy which +he now fills, was successful, notwithstanding he had for his competitor +one of the profoundest thinkers, and most accomplished writers of the +age, Sir William Hamilton, who conducted himself in the affair with the +greatest dignity and urbanity. Many things were said, at the time, +derogatory to Wilson's personal character, and his fitness to fill the +chair of Moral Philosophy. The matter probably was decided, more with +reference to political considerations than any thing besides, as at that +time party politics ran exceedingly high. Professor Wilson has +disappointed the expectations of his enemies, to say the least, and has +been gaining in the esteem and good will of all classes of the +community. + +His splendid career as a poet, editor, critic and novelist, is well +known. His poems, the principal of which are the "Isle of Palms," and +the "City of the Plague," are exquisitely beautiful, but deficient in +energy, variety and dramatic power. He excels in description, and +touches, with a powerful hand, the strings of pure and delicate +sentiment. Nothing can be finer than his "Address to a Wild Deer"--"A +Sleeping Child"--"The Highland Burial Ground," and "The Home Among the +Mountains" in the "City of the Plague." His tales and stories, such as +"Margaret Lindsay," "The Foresters," and those in "The Lights and +Shadows of Scottish Life," are well conceived, and charmingly written. +They breathe a spirit of the purest morality, and are highly honorable +not only to the head but to the heart of their eloquent author. But it +is in criticism and occasional sketching in which he chiefly excels. In +this field, so varied and delightful, he absolutely luxuriates. His +series of papers on Spenser and Homer are remarkable for their delicate +discrimination, strength and exuberance of fancy. No man loves Scotland +more enthusiastically, or describes her peculiar scenery and manners +with more success. Here his "meteor pen," as the author of the Corn Law +Rhymes aptly called it, passes like sunlight over the glowing page. His +descriptions of Highland scenery and Highland sports are instinct with +life and beauty. In a word, to quote the eulogy of the discriminating +Hallam, "Wilson is a writer of the most ardent and enthusiastic genius, +whose eloquence is as the rush of mighty waters." + +Professor Wilson's nature is essentially poetical. It is sensitive, +imaginative and generous. It is also said to be deeply religious. Age +and experience, reflection, and the Word of God, which he greatly +reveres, have tamed the wild exuberance of his youth, strengthened his +better principles, and shed over his character the mellow radiance of +faith and love. "The main current of his nature," says Gilfillan, "is +rapt and religious. In proof of this we have heard, that on one +occasion, he was crossing the hills from St. Mary's Loch to Moffat. It +was a misty morning; but as he ascended, the mist began to break into +columns before the radiant finger of the rising sun. Wilson's feelings +became too much excited for silence, and he began to speak, and from +speaking began to pray; and prayed aloud and alone, for thirty miles +together in the misty morn. We can conceive what a prayer it would be, +and with what awe some passing shepherd may have heard the incarnate +voice, sounding on its dim and perilous way." + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + The Calton Hill--Burns's Monument--Character and Writings of "the + Peasant Poet"--His Religious Views--Monument of Professor Dugald + Stewart--Scottish Metaphysics--Thomas Carlyle. + + +Let us take a walk on the Calton Hill, this afternoon; we shall find +some objects of interest there. At the termination of Prince's Street, +commences Waterloo Place, in which are situated the Stamp Office, Post +Office, Bridewell and the Jail. This also leads to Calton Hill, and is +one of the most delightful promenades in the city. We skirt around the +Hill, a little to the right, pass the beautiful and spacious buildings +of the Edinburgh High School on the left, one of the best educational +institutions in Scotland, continue our walk a short distance, and come +to a round building on the farther declivity of the hill. That is +"Burns's Monument." By giving a small douceur to the keeper, we are +permitted to enter the interior, in the center of which stands a statue +of the poet, by Flaxman. Beautiful and expressive certainly, as a work +of art, but it is not quite equal to one's conception of the poet. The +forehead is particularly fine--open, massive and high, with an air of +lofty repose. The mouth is unpoetical and vulgar--at least _something_ +of this is visible in its expression. It wants the chiseled delicacy, as +well as gracious expression of noble and generous feeling which we +naturally look for in the countenance of Burns. But the likeness, we +understand, is defective. In his best days, Burns had a noble, and +almost beautiful countenance. In stature he was about five feet ten +inches, of great agility and muscular vigor. His countenance was open +and ruddy, with a fine, frank, generous expression, eyes large and +radiant, forehead arched and lofty, with curling hair clustering over +it, and his mouth, especially when engaged in animated conversation, or +lighted with a smile, wreathed with intelligence and good humor. + +Burns has been termed "the Shakspeare of Scotland." And certainly no +poet has ever been regarded, in that country, with such enthusiastic +love and reverence. With all his faults, some of which were bad enough, +all classes of the Scottish people, from the noble to the peasant, +cherish him in their heart of hearts. Indeed he is a sort of national +idol, to whom all feel bound to do reverence, notwithstanding his +admitted failings. Nor is this a matter of surprise. For, taken as a +whole, the poetry of Burns is the poetry of nature--of the heart--and +especially of the Scottish heart. It represents the genius of the +nation--wild, beautiful and free, shaded by thoughtfulness, and set off +by devotion, at once merry as her mountain brooks, yet deep, strong and +passionate as the stormy ocean which encircles her coast. "Tam +O'Shanter," or "Halloween," the "Cotter's Saturday Night," or "Mary in +Heaven," are the two extremes of the picture. In Burns, Scotland saw +incarnated her poetry and song, her music and passion, her love and +devotion, her seriousness and merriment, her strong-hearted adherence to +integrity and truth, her occasional recklessness and madness of spirit, +her love of nature, her veneration for God. The grave and the gay, the +old and the young, the religious and the reckless, all saw themselves +represented in the glorious fragments of his witching poetry. Hence the +enthusiasm with which his first volume of poems was received. It seemed +as if a new realm had been added to the dominions of the British muse--a +new and glorious creation fresh from the hand of nature. There the humor +of Smollett, the pathos and tenderness of Sterne and Richardson, the +real life of Fielding, and the description of Thomson, were all united +in delineations of Scottish manners and scenery by the Ayrshire +ploughman! The volume contained matter for all minds--for the lively and +sarcastic, the wild and the thoughtful, the poetical enthusiast and the +man of the world. So eagerly was the book sought after, that when copies +of it could not be obtained, many of the poems were transcribed and sent +round in manuscript among admiring circles. His songs are the songs of +Scotland. A few have been furnished by Tannahill, Fergusson, Ramsay and +others; but the main body of the most exquisite and most popular +Scottish melodies are from the pen of Burns. Evermore they echo among +her heathy hills and bosky dells. You hear them by the sides of her +"bonnie burns," and along the shores of her silver lakes and "rivers +grand." At evening gray, they are heard resounding from gowan'd braes +and "birken shaws," in the shadow of haunted woods, and hoary ruins; and +especially, on winter nights, and "tween and supper times" from her ten +thousand happy "inglesides." In Burns's "Cotter's Saturday Night" are +seen his reverence for religion "pure and undefiled," combined with +exquisite description and melodious verse; in "Tam O'Shanter," his vivid +fancy and dramatic energy; in "Halloween," his spirit of humor and fun; +in his "Lines to a Mountain Daisy," his fine moral sense and tenderness +of spirit; and in his "Address to Mary in Heaven," his true heartedness, +and sweet lyric power. His native country is beautifully pictured in all +his poetry. The "Banks of the Dee," "Edina's lofty seat," "Old Coila's +hills and streams"--the "Braes of Yarrow"--"Allan Water"--"Bonnie +Doon"--"Sweet Afton among her green braes"--"Auld hermit Ayr," "Stately +Irwine," "The birks of Aberfeldy,"--where "summer blinks o'er flowery +braes," the "lovely Nith, with fruitful vales and spreading +hawthorns,"--"Gowrie's rich valley and Firth's sunny shores," "the clear +winding Devon,"--"Castle Gordon,--where waters flow and wild woods +rave,"--"the banks and braes and streams around the Castle of +Montgomery,"--Bannockburn, Ellerslie and Sheriff Muir;--these, and a +thousand other beautiful or storied scenes, mirror themselves in the +stream of his sweet and varied verse. + +Some vulgar and foolish things he has written; and we condemn them as +heartily as others. But his poetry embodies much that is pure and +beautiful and true, much of which Burns had no occasion to repent, even +on a deathbed, and much of which his native country may well be proud. +He was somewhat intemperate, but not to the extent which is generally +supposed. Strong temptations,--the habits of the times--the folly of his +friends, who thoughtlessly introduced him to the gaities of the +metropolis, and then left him to contempt and penury, broke down his +constitution, and consigned him to a premature grave. But he was not a +man of base and vulgar passions. His was not the cold heart of the +sceptic, nor the envenomed spirit of the villain. It was a wild and +wayward heart, I grant, but honest and true, generous and kind. The +temple was shattered by the lightnings of Heaven, but it was a temple +still; and from its broken altars ever and anon ascended the sweet +incense of prayer and praise. Burns could never forget his good old +father, and the hallowed influences of religion, shed upon his young +heart. He loved the Psalms of David, and the holy melodies of his native +land; and we presume often sang them, of an evening, accompanied, as he +himself intimates, with "the wild woodland note," of his beloved wife. +Several of his letters to Miss Dunlop and others indicate a strong +conviction of the Divine existence and the immortality of the soul, his +struggles against the doubts which haunted his spirit, and his earnest +longing for purity and perfection. "You may perhaps think it an +extravagant fancy," he says in a letter to Mr. Aiken, "but it is a +sentiment which strikes home to my very soul; though sceptical on some +points of our current belief, yet I think, I have every evidence for the +reality of a life beyond the stinted bourn of our present existence;" +and then adds--"O thou great, unknown Power, thou Almighty God! who has +lighted up reason in my breast, and blessed me with immortality! I have +frequently wandered from that order and regularity necessary for the +perfection of thy works, yet thou hast never left me nor forsaken me." +Having expressed to Mrs. Dunlop his strong conviction of the immortality +of the soul, he writes as follows, "I know not whether I have ever sent +you the following lines, or if you have ever seen them; but it is one of +my favorite quotations, which I keep constantly by me in my progress +through life, in the language of the Book of Job, + + "Against the day of battle and of war."-- + +spoken of religion: + + "'Tis _this_ my friend that streaks our morning bright, + 'Tis this that gilds the horror of our night. + When wealth forsakes us, and when friends are few; + When friends are faithless, or when foes pursue; + 'Tis this that wards the blow, or stills the smart, + Disarms affliction, or repels her dart; + Within the breast bids purest raptures rise. + Bids smiling Conscience spread her cloudless skies." + +One of the most beautiful letters ever written by Burns has reference to +this subject, and was addressed to the same lady, on New Year's +day.--"This, dear Madam, is a morning of wishes; and would to God that I +came under the Apostle James's description!--'the prayer of the +righteous man availeth much.' In that case, Madam, you should welcome in +a year full of blessings: everything that obstructs or disturbs +tranquillity and self-enjoyment should be removed, and every pleasure +that frail humanity can taste should be yours. I own myself so little a +Presbyterian, that I approve of set times and seasons of more than +ordinary acts of devotion for breaking in on that habitual routine of +life and thought, which is so apt to reduce our existence to a kind of +instinct, or even sometimes, and with some minds, to a state very little +superior to mere machinery. + +"This day, the first Sunday of May, a breezy, blue skyed noon, sometime +about the beginning, and a hoary morning and calm sunny day about the +end of Autumn,--these, time out of mind, have been with me a kind of +holy day. * * * * I believe I owe this to that glorious paper in the +Spectator, "The Vision of Mirza;" a piece that struck my young fancy +before I was capable of fixing an idea to a word of three syllables. 'On +the fifth day of the moon, which, according to the custom of my +forefathers, I always _keep holy_, after having washed myself, and +offered up my morning devotions, I ascended the high hill of Bagdad, in +order to pass the rest of the day in meditation and prayer.' + +"We know nothing, or next to nothing of the substance or structure of +our souls, so cannot account for those seeming caprices in them, that +one should be particularly pleased with this thing, or struck with that, +which, on minds of a different cast, makes no extraordinary impression. +I have some favorite flowers in spring, among which are the mountain +daisy, the harebell, the foxglove, the wild brier rose, the budding +birch, and the hoary hawthorn, that I view and hang over with particular +delight. I never heard the loud solitary whistle of the curlew in a +summer noon, or the wild, mixing cadence of a troop of gray plover in an +autumnal morning, without feeling an elevation of soul like the +enthusiasm of devotion or poetry. Tell me, my dear friend, to what can +this be owing? Are we a piece of machinery, which like the Aeolian harp, +passive, takes the impression of the passing accident? Or do these +workings argue something within us above the trodden clod? I own myself +partial to such proofs of those awful and important realities--a God +that made all things--man's immaterial and immortal nature--and a world +of weal or woe beyond death and the grave." + +A fit comment on this and other passages of similar import in his +letters is the following affecting poem, entitled "A Prayer in the +Prospect of Death." It seems to us to utter the deep throbbings of the +poet's spirit: + + "Why am I loth to leave this earthly scene? + Have I so found it full of pleasing charms? + Some drops of joy, with draughts of ill between; + Some gleams of sunshine 'mid renewing storms; + Is it departing pangs my soul alarms? + Or death's unlovely, dreary, dark abode? + For guilt, for guilt, my terrors are in arms; + I tremble to approach an angry God, + And justly smart beneath his sin avenging rod. + + Fain would I say, 'forgive my foul offence!' + Fain promise never more to disobey; + But should my Author health again dispense, + Again I might desert fair virtue's way; + Again in folly's path might go astray; + Again exalt the brute and sink the man. + Then how should I for heavenly mercy pray; + Who act so counter heavenly mercy's plan, + Who sin so oft have mourn'd, yet to temptation ran? + + O thou great Governor of all below, + If I may dare a lifted eye to Thee, + Thy nod can make the tempest cease to blow, + Or still the tumult of the raging sea; + With that controling power assist ev'n me, + Those headlong furious passions to confine, + For all unfit I feel my powers to be, + To rule their torrent in the allowed line; + O aid me with thy help, Omnipotence Divine!" + +After writing thus far, we read for the first time, "The Genius and +Character of Burns," by Professor Wilson, the richest garland yet +wreathed around the poet's brow; and we are happy to find the views +expressed above fully corroborated by that distinguished writer. It is +true that Wilson delineates the character of Burns with enthusiastic +admiration; but his views are so discriminating, and withal backed by +such an array of facts, that no candid man can deny their correctness. +We cannot therefore resist the temptation of making the following +extract, in which the finest discrimination is blended with the largest +charity. Long may the Literature of Scotland be guarded by such a +critic! But one thing must not be forgotten here, namely, that no one, +and especially one personally unacquainted with Burns, can pronounce in +regard to his actual spiritual state. Whether he was truly 'born of +God,' and notwithstanding the errors of his life, died a Christian and +went to heaven, is happily not a question which we are called to decide. + +"We have said but little hitherto of Burns's religion. Some have denied +that he had any religion at all--a rash and cruel denial--made in the +face of his genius, his character, and his life. What man in his senses +ever lived without religion? "The fool hath said in his heart, There is +no God"--was Burns an atheist? We do not fear to say that he was +religious far beyond the common run of men, even them who may have had a +more consistent and better considered creed. The lessons he received in +the "auld clay biggin" were not forgotten through life. He speaks--and +we believe him--of his "early ingrained piety" having been long +remembered to good purpose--what he called his "idiot piety"--not +meaning thereby to disparage it, but merely that it was in childhood an +instinct. "Our Father which art in Heaven, hallowed be thy name!" is +breathed from the lips of infancy with the same feeling at its heart +that beats towards its father on earth, as it kneels in prayer by his +side. No one surely will doubt his sincerity when he writes from Irvine +to his father--"Honor'd sir--I am quite transported at the thought, +that ere long, perhaps soon, I shall bid an eternal adieu to all the +pains, and uneasinesses, and disquietudes of this weary life; for I +assure you I am heartily tired of it, and, if I do not very much deceive +myself, I could contentedly and gladly resign it. It is for this reason +I am more pleased with the 15th, 16th, and 17th verses of the 7th +chapter of Revelations, than with any ten times as many verses in the +whole Bible, and would not exchange the noble enthusiasm with which they +inspire me, for all that this world has to offer. '15. Therefore are +they before the throne of God and serve him day and night in his temple; +and he that sitteth on the throne shall dwell among them. 16. They shall +hunger no more, neither thirst any more; neither shall the sun light on +them, nor any heat. 17. For the Lamb that is in the midst of the throne +shall feed them, and shall lead them unto living fountains of waters; +and God shall wipe away all tears from their eyes.'" When he gives +lessons to a young man for his conduct in life, one of them is, "The +great Creator to adore;" when he consoles a friend on the death of a +relative, "he points the brimful grief-worn eyes to scenes beyond the +grave;" when he expresses benevolence to a distressed family, he +beseeches the aid of Him "who tempers the wind to the shorn lamb;" when +he feels the need of aid to control his passions, he implores that of +the "Great Governor of all below;" when in sickness, he has a prayer for +the pardon of all his errors, and an expression of confidence in the +goodness of God; when suffering from the ills of life, he asks for the +grace of resignation, "because they are thy will;" when he observes the +sufferings of the virtuous, he remembers a rectifying futurity;--he is +religious not only when surprised by occasions such as these, but also +on set occasions; he had regular worship in his family while at +Ellisland--we know not how it was at Dumfries, but we do know that there +he catechised his children every Saturday evening;--Nay, he does not +enter a Druidical circle without a prayer to God. + +He viewed the Creator chiefly in his attributes of love, goodness and +mercy. "In proportion as we are wrung with grief, or distracted with +anxiety, the ideas of a superintending Deity, an Almighty protector, are +doubly dear." Him he never lost sight of, or confidence in, even in the +depths of his remorse. An avenging God was too seldom in his +contemplations--from the little severity in his own character--from a +philosophical view of the inscrutable causes of human frailty--and most +of all, from a diseased aversion to what was so much the theme of the +sour Calvanism around him; but which would have risen up an appalling +truth in such a soul as his, had it been habituated to profounder +thought on the mysterious corruption of our fallen nature. + +Sceptical thoughts as to revealed religion had assailed his mind, while +with expanding powers it "communed with the glorious universe;" and in +1787 he writes from Edinburgh to a "Mr. James M'Candlish, student in +physic, College, Glasgow," who had favored him with a long +argumentative infidel letter, "I, likewise, since you and I were first +acquainted, in the pride of despising old women's stories, ventured on +'the daring path Spinoza trod;' but experience of the weakness, not the +strength of human powers, _made me glad to grasp at revealed religion_." +When at Ellisland, he writes to Mrs. Dunlop, "My idle reasonings +sometimes make me a little sceptical, but the necessities of my heart +always give the cold philosophizings the lie. Who looks for the heart +weaned from earth; the soul affianced to her God; the correspondence +fixed with heaven; the pious supplication and devout thanksgiving, +constant as the vicissitudes of even and morn; who thinks to meet with +these in the court, the palace, in the glare of public life! No: to find +them in their precious importance and divine efficacy, we must search +among the obscure recesses of disappointment, affliction, poverty and +distress." And again, next year, from the same place to the same +correspondent, "That there is an incomprehensibly Great Being, to whom I +owe my existence, and that he must be intimately acquainted with the +operations and progress of the internal machinery, and consequent +outward deportment of this creature he has made--these are, I think, +self-evident propositions. That there is a real and eternal distinction +between vice and virtue, and consequently, that I am an accountable +creature; that from the seeming nature of the human mind, as well as +from the evident imperfection, nay positive injustice, in the +administration of affairs, both in the natural and moral worlds, there +must be a retributive scene of existence beyond the grave, must, I +think, be allowed by every one who will give himself a moment's +reflection. I will go farther and affirm, that from the sublimity, +excellence, and purity of his doctrine and precepts, unparalleled, by +all the aggregated wisdom and learning of many preceding ages, though +_to appearance_ he was himself the obscurest and most illiterate of our +species: therefore Jesus was from God." Indeed, all his best letters to +Mrs. Dunlop are full of the expression of religious feeling and +religious faith; though it must be confessed with pain, that he speaks +with more confidence in the truth of natural than of revealed religion, +and too often lets sentiments inadvertently escape him, that, taken by +themselves, would imply that his religious belief was but a +Christianized Theism. Of the immortality of the soul, he never expresses +any serious doubt, though now and then, his expressions, though +beautiful, want their usual force, as if he felt the inadequacy of the +human mind to the magnitude of the theme. "Ye venerable sages, and holy +flamens, is there probability in your conjectures, truth in your +stories, of another world beyond death; or are they all alike baseless +visions and fabricated fables? If there is another life, it must be only +for the just, the amiable, and the humane. What a flattering idea this +of the world to come! Would to God I as firmly believed it as I ardently +wish it." + +How, then, could honored Thomas Carlyle bring himself to affirm, "that +Burns had no religion?" His religion was in much imperfect--but its +incompleteness you discern only on a survey of all his effusions, and by +inference; for his particular expressions of a religious kind are +genuine, and as acknowledgments of the superabundant goodness and +greatness of God, they are in unison with the sentiments of the +devoutest Christian. But remorse never suggests to him the inevitable +corruption of man; Christian humility he too seldom dwells on, though +without it there cannot be Christian faith: and he is silent on the need +of reconcilement between the divine attributes of Justice and Mercy. The +absence of all this might pass unnoticed, were not the religious +sentiment so prevalent in his confidential communications with his +friends in his most serious and solemn moods. In them there is frequent, +habitual recognition of the Creator; and who that finds joy and beauty +in nature has not the same? It may be well supposed that if common men +are more ideal in religion than in other things, so would be Burns. He +who has lent the colors of his fancy to common things, would not +withhold them from divine. Something--he knew not what--he would exact +of man--more impressively reverential than anything he is wont to offer +to God, or perhaps can offer in the way of institution--in temples made +with hands. The _heartfelt_ adoration always has a grace for him--in the +silent bosom--in the lonely cottage--in any place where circumstances +are a pledge of its reality; but the moment it ceases to be _heartfelt_, +and visibly so, it loses his respect, it seems as profanation. "Mine is +the religion of the breast;" and if it be not, what is it worth? But it +must also revive a right spirit within us; and there may be gratitude +for goodness, without such change as is required of us in the gospel. He +was too buoyant with immortal spirit within him not to credit its +immortal destination; he was too thoughtful in his human love not to +feel how different must be our affections if they are towards flowers +which the blast of death may wither, or towards spirits which are but +beginning to live in our sight, and are gathering good and evil here for +an eternal life. Burns believed that by his own unassisted +understanding, and his own unassisted heart, he saw and felt those great +truths, forgetful of this great truth, that he had been taught them in +the Written Word. Had all he learned in the "auld clay biggin" become a +blank--all the knowledge inspired into his heart during the evenings, +when "the sire turned o'er wi' patriarchal air, the big ha'-bible, ance +his father's pride," how little or how much would he then have known of +God and Immortality? In that delusion he shared more or less with one +and all--whether poets or philosophers--who have put their trust in +natural Theology. As to the glooms in which his sceptical reason had +been involved, they do not seem to have been so thick--so dense--as in +the case of men without number, who have, by the blessing of God, become +true Christians. Of his levities on certain celebrations of religious +rites, we before ventured an explanation; and while it is to be +lamented that he did not more frequently dedicate the genius that shed +so holy a lustre over "The Cotter's Saturday Night," to the service of +religion, let it be remembered how few poets have done so--alas! too +few--that he, like his tuneful brethren, must often have been deterred +by a sense of his own unworthiness from approaching its awful +mysteries--and above all, that he was called to his account before he +had attained his thoughtful prime." + +Speaking of Burns's last sickness, Professor Wilson says: "But he had +his Bible with him in his lodgings, and he read it almost +continually--often when seated on a bank, from which he had difficulty +in rising without assistance, for his weakness was extreme, and in his +emaciation he was like a ghost. The fire of his eye was not +dimmed--indeed fever had lighted it up beyond even its natural +brightness; and though his voice, once so various, was now hollow, his +discourse was still that of a Poet. To the last he loved the sunshine, +the grass, and the flowers; to the last he had a kind look and word for +the passers-by, who all knew it was Burns. Laboring men, on their way +from work, would step aside to the two or three houses called the Brow, +to know if there was any hope of his life; and it is not to be doubted +that devout people remembered him, who had written the Cotter's Saturday +Night, in their prayers. His sceptical doubts no longer troubled him; +they had never been more than shadows; and he had at last the faith of a +confiding Christian." + +Leaving Burns's Monument, we ascend the hill, in the opposite direction, +pass the unfinished Parthenon, consisting only of a few elegant columns, +and intended to commemorate the battle of Waterloo, the Observatory, and +the Monument of Professor Playfair, the celebrated mathematician and +astronomer, and reach the elegant though not imposing monument of +Professor Dugald Stewart, not the most acute, but certainly the most +finished and instructive of all the writers of the Scottish metaphysical +school. Let us linger here, a few moments, for the name of Professor +Stewart is peculiarly dear to Scotland. No man was ever more +enthusiastically regarded by his pupils, or more generally loved and +revered by the community. Dr. Reid of Glasgow University, the immediate +predecessor and preceptor of Stewart, was a man of an acute and original +mind, though not possessed of half the grace and fluency of his +illustrious pupil. It was Reid however that first gave clearness and +method to the metaphysics of Scotland. His writings on first principles, +or, as he called them, principles of Common Sense, gave a death-blow, at +least in Scotland, to the _ideal theory_ of Berkeley and Hume, and +greatly affected the course of philosophical investigation not only in +England but in France. In fact, his philosophy supplanted, for a time, +the infidel metaphysics of Hume and the French rationalists. It cut the +roots equally of idealism and sensualism, and was eagerly received by +thoughtful men in Europe and in this country. It can be seen running +like a sunbeam, through the speculations of Royer Collard, Constant, +Jouffroy and even of Cousin. Based on the Baconian method, it proceeded, +modestly and unostentatiously, to ascertain, and then to classify the +facts of mind; and, because it projected no splendid theories, or +blazing fancies, it has been rejected by superficial and visionary +thinkers, with some degree of contempt. After all, it may yet be +recognized, by all genuine philosophers, as the only true scientific +method. In the hands of Stewart and of Brown, his colleague and +successor, it began to assume a lofty and attractive position; but alas! +it has remained stationary for the want of strong and true-hearted +defenders. Stigmatized by the Germans as "pallid and insular--timid and +cold," it has been forsaken, of late, by the more popular metaphysical +writers, for the brilliant and astounding, but ever varying visions of +the Transcendental School. Smitten with the love of Ontology, or the +doctrine of "the absolute and the essential," scorning the methods of +Bacon and Newton as empirical and shallow, and setting their foot on the +modest, perhaps timid speculations of Reid and Stewart, metaphysicians +have plunged one after another into the abyss of an absolute +Spiritualism, where, amid the glimmerings of a half-dark and lurid +radiance, may be seen the disciples of Kant and Fichte, Hegel and +Schelling, floundering in the gloom, changing places continually, now +rising towards the light of heaven, and then sinking in the "abysmal +dark." + +The writings of Reid, Stewart and Brown have exerted a great influence +on the thinking of Scotland, which, even among the common people, has a +somewhat metaphysical turn. Combining with religion and poetry, it has +given to both a peculiar depth and earnestness of tone. In some it is +deeply practical, in others speculative and visionary. + +Thomas Carlyle, the product chiefly of Scotland, but partly also of +Germany--or perhaps, rather, a magnificent "lusus naturae," has a large +amount of Scottish shrewdness, enthusiasm and speculation, overlaid and +burnished with German spiritualism and romance. A native of Annandale, +and imbued with the religion of the Covenant, and the poetry of the +hills, he has wandered off into the fields of metaphysical speculation, +where, amid dreams of gorgeous and beautiful enchantment, he is evermore +uttering his burning oracular words, of half pagan, and half Christian, +wisdom. A genuine _Teufelsdroeckh_,--he is yet a genuine _Scot_, and +cannot therefore forget the holy wisdom of his venerable mother, and his +Annandale home.[16] + +[Footnote 16: The following graphic description of the residence, +personal appearance and conversation of Carlyle is from the pen of +Elizur Wright, Junr. "Passing the long lines of new buildings which have +stretched from Westminster up the Thames, and engulphed the old village +of Chelsea, in omnivorous London, you recognize at last the old Chelsea +Hospital, one of the world-famous clusters of low brick palaces, where +Britain nurses her fighting men when they can fight no more. A little +past this and an old ivy-clad church, with its buried generations lying +around it, you come to an antique street running at right angles with +the Thames, and a few steps from the river, you find Carlyle's name on +the door. A Scotch lass ushers you into the second story front chamber, +which is the spacious workshop of the world-maker. Here are lots of +books--ponderous tomes in Latin, Greek, and black letter English,--some +are on shelves occupying nearly all the walls, and some are piled on +tables and a reading rack as having just been read. The furniture speaks +of Scotch economy, and the whole face of things of more than common +Scotch tidiness. In fact, a superbly wrought bell-rope indicates that +the wife is a true hero worshipper. Carlyle is a mere man, ordinary +size, lofty and jutting brow, keen--exceedingly keen eye, and modest +unassuming manners. His voice is melodious, and with its rich Scotch +cadence, and rapid flow, reminds you of Thalberg's music in some strange +out of the way key. Just set him agoing, and he runs without stopping, +giving you whole masses of history, painting and poetry, and a great +mass of the boundless system of Carlyleism. There is nothing which he +does not touch; and figures of speech come tumbling in from all corners, +top and bottom of the universe, as the merest matter of course. Doubt, +hesitation or qualification have no place among his opinions, he having +kicked them all out of doors when he began his philosophy." + +Many inquiries have been made respecting Carlyle's religious opinions; +but it is difficult to say anything very decisive in reply. That he has +a deep reverence for the Christian faith,--that he strongly inclines to +a sort of transcendental orthodoxy,--that he loves, moreover, +true-hearted piety, and is himself a model of integrity and affection +cannot be doubted. He often speaks of Jesus as divine,--as the most +perfect of all heroes--as the God man--as the Divine man. He possesses a +profound sympathy for the higher and more beautiful forms of Christian +virtue, and describes the lives and characters of good men with the +liveliest relish. We incline therefore to believe, that notwithstanding +his transcendental speculations, and philosophical doubts, he has a true +(though not thoroughly defined) heart faith in the essential doctrines +of the Christian system. Clouds and darkness hang upon the horizon of +his spiritual vision, but gloriously irradiated with light from heaven, +and here and there opening into vistas of serene and ineffable beauty. +Many of his followers, we think, do not understand him, and we fear, +will never reach his purity and elevation of mind. They are more likely +to be led astray, by the magnificent illusions of his gifted but +somewhat erring fancy. Instead of resting in the simple-hearted and +heroic faith which he loves so much to describe, they may plunge into +the abysses of doubt and despair.] + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + Preaching in Edinburgh--The Free Church--Dr. Chalmers--A Specimen + of his Preaching--The Secret of his Eloquence. + + +Edinburgh has ever been distinguished for its preachers. In former times +the classic Blair, the fervid Walker, the impassioned Logan, the +judicious Erskine, the learned Jamieson, the exquisite Alison, the +candid Wellwood and the energetic Thomson delighted and instructed all +classes of the community. To these have succeeded a host of learned and +truly eloquent men, some of whom are members of "the Kirk," others of +the Episcopal communion, and others of the various bodies of +Presbyterian "Seceders," Congregationalists and Baptists. Among the +clergymen of the Free Church, Dr. Chalmers of course is "_facile +princeps_;" Dr. Candlish, in effectiveness and popularity probably +stands next, while Drs. Cunningham, Bruce, Gordon and Buchanan, the Rev. +James Begg, and one or two others form a cluster of influential and +eloquent preachers. Among the Congregationalists, Rev. William L. +Alexander is the most learned and polished. He has written ably on the +Tractarian controversy and on the connection of the Old and New +Testaments, and recently received a pressing invitation to become +associated with Dr. Wardlaw of Glasgow, as assistant pastor and +Professor of Theology. He is a fine looking man, being some six feet +high, with expressive features, dark penetrating eyes, and massive black +hair, clustering over a fair and lofty forehead. His manner is dignified +and agreeable, but not particularly impassioned. + +Among the "seceding" Presbyterians, Dr. John Brown, minister of +Broughton Place, and one of the Professors of Theology in the United +Secession Church, the Rev. Dr. Johnstone and the Rev. James Robertson of +the same communion are among the most effective preachers in Scotland. +The Baptists are justly proud of the learned and polished Christopher +Anderson, author of an able work on the "Domestic Constitution," and an +elaborate "History of the English Bible"--the Rev. William Innes, one of +the most amiable and pious of men, and the Rev. Jonathan Watson, whose +earnest practical discourses are well appreciated by his intelligent +audience. Mr. Innes at one time was a minister of the established +Church, with a large salary and an agreeable situation, but abandoned it +for conscience' sake, as he could not approve of the union of Church and +State, nor of some of the peculiarities of Presbyterianism. His pious, +consistent course, and liberal, catholic spirit, have won for him the +admiration of all denominations of Christians. + +Bishop Terrot of the Episcopal Church is somewhat high in his church +notions, but is regarded as an amiable and learned man, while the Rev. +Mr. Drummond and others of the same church, are able and influential +preachers. Among those who adhere to "the Kirk" as it was, the Rev. Dr. +Muir is one of the most accomplished, and the Rev. Dr. Lee, of the +University, the most learned and influential. + +Taken as a whole, the Edinburgh clergy are fair representatives of the +Scottish preachers generally. Those therefore who wish to form a just +estimate of the spirit and power of the pulpit in Scotland, have only to +hear them repeatedly, in their respective places of worship. They hold +doctrinal views somewhat diverse, though essentially one, adopt +different styles of preaching, and in certain aspects different styles +of life. Yet they manifestly belong to the same great family, and preach +the same glorious gospel. They are remarkably distinguished for their +strong common sense, laborious habits, pious spirit and practical +usefulness. Occasionally they come into keen polemical strife; but it +amounts to little more than a gladiatorial exhibition, or rather a light +skirmishing, without malice prepense, or much evil result. Generally +speaking, they are not pre-eminently distinguished for their learning, +though certainly well informed, and devoted to the great work of their +ministry. They are more practical than speculative, more devout than +critical, more useful than renowned. They live in the hearts of their +flocks, and the results of their labors may be seen in the integrity, +good order and industry of the people. It is not our purpose to say much +on the subject of the recent "break" in the Scottish church, in which, +as the members of the "Free Church" assert, the supremacy of Jesus +Christ is concerned. The intrusion by lay patrons, of unpopular +ministers upon the churches, is certainly a vicious practice, and ought +to be abolished. But this is only a fragment of a greater and more vital +question, pertaining to the spirituality and authority of Christ's +church, which must be settled one of these days. The Free Church +movement has developed much fine enthusiasm, and no small amount of +self-denial; and the results will doubtless be favorable to the progress +of spiritual freedom; but this is only a single wave of a mighty and +ever increasing tide, which is destined to sweep, not over Scotland +alone, but over the world. In this place, however, we cannot refrain +from expressing our conviction that this division in the Presbyterian +ranks is not properly a schism or a heresy. It breaks up an existing +organization, but affinity remains. The doctrines and discipline of the +two churches are essentially the same. The one may be purer and stronger +than the other, but they are members of the same family, professedly +cherish the same spirit, and aim at the accomplishment of the same ends. +This, too, may be said of nearly all the other sects; so that in +Scotland, there is more real unity among Christians than there is in +Papal Rome. The latter is one, only as a mountain of ice, in which all +impurities are congealed, is one. The unity of the former is like that +of the thousand streams which rush from the Alpine heights, proceeding, +as they do, from a common source, and finally meeting and blending in a +common ocean. + +But enough of general speculation and description. Dr. Chalmers is to +preach at Dr. Candlish's church, so let us go to hear him. He has lost +something of his early vigor, but retains enough of it to make him the +most interesting preacher in Scotland or the world. Let us make haste, +or we shall fail of obtaining a seat. Already the house is filled with +an expectant congregation. The Doctor comes in, and all is hushed. He is +dressed in gown and bands, and presents a striking and venerable +appearance. His serious, earnest aspect well befits his high office. He +is of the middle height, thick set and brawny, but not corpulent. His +face is rather broad, with high cheek bones, pale, and as it were +care-worn, but well formed and expressive. His eyes are of a leaden +color, rather dull when in a state of repose, but flashing with a +half-smothered fire when fairly roused. His nose is broad and lion-like, +his mouth, one of the most expressive parts of his countenance, firm, a +little compressed and stern, indicating courage and energy, while his +forehead is ample and high, as one might naturally suppose, covered with +thin, straggling grey hair. He reads a psalm in a dry, guttural +voice--reads a few verses of Scripture, without much energy or apparent +feeling, and then offers a brief, simple, earnest, and striking prayer. +By the way, the Doctor's prayers are among his most interesting +exercises. He is always simple, direct, reverent, and occasionally quite +original and striking. You feel while joining in his devotions, that a +man of genius and piety is leading your willing spirit up to the throne +of God. How striking, for example, when he calls us to remember "that +every hour that strikes,--every morning that dawns, and every evening +that darkens around us, brings us nearer to the end of our pilgrimage." +Yet he has no mouthing or mannerism, in this solemn exercise. He is not +_making_, but offering a prayer. His tones are earnest and solemn; most +manifest it is that his soul is holding intimate fellowship with the +Father of Spirits. + +But he announces his text--1 John iv. 16. "God is love"--a text from +which he has preached before; but no matter for that.[17] He commences, +with a few broken sentences, pronounced in a harsh tuneless voice, with +a strong Scottish accent. The first feeling of a stranger would be that +of disappointment, and apprehension that the discourse was to prove a +failure. This was the case with Canning and Wilberforce, who went to +hear Dr. Chalmers, when he preached in London. They had got into a pew +near the door, when "the preacher began in his usual unpromising way, by +stating a few nearly self-evident propositions, neither in the choicest +language, nor in the most impressive voice; 'If this be all,' said +Canning to his companion, 'it will never do.' Chalmers went on,--the +shuffling in the congregation gradually subsided. He got into the mass +of his subject; his weakness became strength, his hesitation was turned +into energy; and bringing the whole volume of his mind to bear upon it, +poured forth a torrent of most close and conclusive argument, brilliant +with all the exuberance of an imagination which ranged over all nature +for illustrations, and yet managed and applied each of them with the +same unerring dexterity, as if that single one had been the study of his +whole life. 'The tartan beats us,' said Mr. Canning, 'we have no +preaching like that in England.'" + +[Footnote 17: In looking over the Doctor's printed works, we have found +this discourse in a somewhat different garb from that in which we have +presented it. We were not at first aware of this, or we might have +selected some other discourse; for it was our good fortune to hear the +Doctor frequently. This and other delineations, however, are taken from +personal observation.] + +It may be well to state here that Chalmers is a slavish reader,--that +is, he reads every thing he says,--but then he reads so naturally, so +earnestly, so energetically, that manuscript and everything else is +speedily forgotten by the astonished and delighted hearer. + +He proceeds with his subject--_God is love_. His object, as announced, +is not so much to elucidate the thought or idea of the text, as to +dislodge from the minds of his hearers, the dread and aversion for God, +existing in all unregenerate men. He insists, in the first place, that +it is not as a God of love, that the Deity is regarded by mankind--but +simply as God, as a being mysterious and dreadful, a being who has +displeasure towards them in his heart. This arises from two causes--the +first, that they are ignorant of this great and awfully mysterious +Being--the second, that they have sinned against him. This feeling then +is displaced first by the incarnation of the Deity in the person of his +Son, so that we may know him and love him as a Father and a friend; and +secondly, by the free pardon of our sin, through the sacrifice of the +Cross. The division is rather awkward; but it serves the purpose of the +preacher, who thus brings out some of the most sublime peculiarities of +the Gospel, and applies them with overwhelming force and pathos to the +sinner's heart. Under the first head, he shows, in language of uncommon +energy, that it is impossible for man, in his present state, to regard a +being so vast, so mysterious, and so little known as God, except with +superstitious dread. "All regarding him," says he, "is inscrutable; the +depths of his past eternity, the mighty and unknown extent of his +creation, the secret policy or end of his government--a government that +embraces an infinity of worlds, and reaches forward to an infinity of +ages; all these leave a being so circumscribed in his faculties as man, +so limited in his duration, and therefore so limited in his experience, +in profoundest ignorance of God; and then the inaccessible retirement in +which this God hides himself from the observation of his creatures here +below, the clouds and darkness which are about the pavilion of his +throne, the utter inability of the powers of man to reach beyond the +confines of that pavilion, render vain all attempts to fathom the +essence of God, or to obtain any distinct conception of his person or +being, which have been shrouded in the deep silence of many centuries, +insomuch that nature, whatever it may tell us of his existence, places +between our senses and this mighty cause a veil of interception." + +It is not unnatural to dread such a being. Nature, though full of God, +furnishes no clear and satisfying evidence of his designs; for sunshine +and shower, green fields and waving harvests are intermingled with +tempests and hurricane, blight and mildew, destruction and death. "While +in one case we have the natural affection and unnumbered sweets of many +a cottage, which might serve to manifest the indulgent kindness of him +who is the universal parent of the human family; we have on the other +hand the cares, the heart-burnings, the moral discomforts, often the +pining sickness, or the cold and cheerless poverty, or, more palpably, +the fierce contests and mutual distractions even among civilized men; +and lastly, and to consummate all, the death,--the unshaken and +relentless death with which generation after generation, whether among +the abodes of the prosperous and the happy, or among the dwellings of +the adverse and unfortunate, after a few years are visited, laying all +the varieties of human fortune in the dust,--these all bespeak if not a +malignant, an offended, God." + +But this vague uncertainty and dread are corrected and displaced by the +incarnation of the Deity in the person of Christ--"the brightness of the +Father's glory and the express image of his person." "The Godhead then +became palpable to human senses, and man could behold, as in a picture, +and in distinct personification, the very characteristics of the Being +that made him." + +Upon this idea, a favorite one with Dr. Chalmers, he dwells with the +profoundest interest, presenting it with a strength of conception and +exuberance of illustration which makes it clear and palpable to the +minds of all. How his heart glows, almost to bursting, with the sublime +and thrilling idea that God is manifest in the flesh. How he pours out, +as in a torrent of light, the swelling images and emotions of his +throbbing spirit. "We could not scale the height of that mysterious +ascent which brings us within view of the Godhead. It is by the descent +of the Godhead unto us that this manifestation has been made; and we +learn and know it from the wondrous history of him who went about doing +good continually. We could not go in search of the viewless Deity, +through the depths and vastnesses of infinity, or divine the secret, the +untold purposes that were brooding there. But in what way could a more +palpable exhibition have been made, than when the eternal Son, enshrined +in humanity, stepped forth on the platform of visible things, and there +proclaimed the Deity? We can now reach the character of God in the human +looks, in the human language of Him who is the very image and visible +representative of the Deity; we see it in the tears of sympathy he shed; +we hear it in the accents of tenderness which fell from his lips. Even +his very remonstrances were those of a deep and gentle nature; for they +are remonstrances of deepest pathos--the complaints of a longing spirit +against the sad perversity of men bent on their own ruin." + +Not content with this clear and ample exhibition of his views, he +returns to it, as if with redoubled interest, and though presenting no +new conception upon the point, delights to pour upon it the exuberant +radiance of his teeming imagination. The hearers, too, are as interested +as he, and catch with delight the varying aspects of his peculiar +oratory. In fact, their minds are in perfect sympathy and harmony with +his; and tears start to every eye, as he bursts out, as if applying the +subject to himself, in the following beautiful and affecting +style:--"Previous to this manifestation, as long as I had nothing before +me but the unseen God, my mind wandered in uncertainty, my busy fancy +was free to expatiate, and its images filled my heart with disquietude +and terror; but in the life and person and history of Jesus Christ, the +attributes of the Deity are brought down to the observation of the +senses, and I can no longer mistake them, when, in the Son, who is the +express image of his Father, I see them carried home to my understanding +by the evidence and expression of human organs--when I see the kindness +of the Father, in the tears that fell from the Son at the tomb of +Lazarus--when I see his justice blended with his mercy, in the +exclamation, 'O Jerusalem, Jerusalem!' by Jesus Christ, uttered with a +tone more tender than human bosom or human sympathy ever uttered--I feel +the judgment of God himself flashing conviction on my conscience, and +calling me to repent, while his wrath is suspended, and he still waiteth +to be gracious!" + +But a more distinct and well-grounded reason for distrust and fear in +reference to the Deity arises from the consciousness of guilt. In spite +of ourselves, in spite of our false theology, we feel that God has a +right to be offended with us, that he is offended with us, and not only +so, but that we deserve his displeasure. This he shows is counteracted +by the doctrine of the atonement: "Herein is love, not that we loved +him, but that he loved us, and sent his Son into the world to be a +propitiation for our sins." By the fact of the incarnation, a conquest +is gained over the imagination haunted with the idea of an unknown God; +so also by that of the atonement, a conquest is gained over the solid +and well-grounded fear of guilt. This idea the Doctor illustrates with +equal force and beauty, showing that by means of the Sacrifice of the +Cross, justice and mercy are brought into harmony, in the full and free +pardon of the believing penitent. By this means the great hindrance to +free communion with God is taken away. Guilt is cancelled, for the sake +of Him who died, and the poor trembling sinner is taken to the bosom of +Infinite Love. "In the glorious spectacle of the Cross, we see the +mystery revealed, and the compassion of the parent meeting in fullest +harmony with the now asserted and now vindicated prerogative of the +Lawgiver. The Gospel is a halo of all the attributes of God, and yet the +pre-eminent manifestation there is of God as love, which will shed its +lustre amid all the perfections of the Divine nature. And here it should +be specially remarked, that the atonement was made for the sins of the +whole world; God's direct and primary object being to vindicate the +truth and justice of the Godhead. Instead of taking from his love, it +only gave it more emphatic demonstration; for, instead of love, simple +and bending itself without difficulty to the happiness of its objects, +it was a love which, ere it could reach the guilty being it groaned +after, had to force the barriers of a necessity which, to all human +appearance, was insuperable." With this fine idea the Doctor concludes +his discourse, presenting it with a mingled tenderness and vehemence of +style and tone perfectly irresistible. "The love of God," he exclaims, +"with such an obstacle and trying to get over it, is a higher exhibition +than all the love which radiates from his throne on all the sinless +angels. The affirmation that God is love, is strengthened by that other, +to him who owns the authority of Scripture, that God _so_ loved the +world--I call on you to mark the emphatic _so_--as to give his +only-begotten Son. 'He spared not his own Son, but delivered him up for +us all;' or that expression, 'herein is love, not that we loved God, but +that he loved us, and gave his Son to be the propitiation for our sins.' +There is a moral, a depth, an intensity of meaning, a richness of +sentiment that Paul calls unsearchable, in the Cross of Christ, that +tells emphatically that God is righteousness, and that God is love." + +Such is a feeble and imperfect outline of a rich and eloquent discourse, +from one of the richest and most expressive texts in the Bible. But we +cannot transfer to the written or printed page the tone, look and +manner, the _vivida vis_, the natural and overwhelming energy, the +pathos and power of tone, which thrill the hearer as with the shocks of +a spiritual electricity. It is this peculiar energy which distinguishes +Chalmers, and which distinguishes all great orators. His mind is on fire +with his subject, and transfers itself all glowing to the minds of his +hearers. For the time being all are fused into one great whole, by the +resistless might of his burning eloquence. In this respect Chalmers has +been thought to approach, nearer than any other man of modern times, the +style and tone of Demosthenes. His manner has a torrent-vehemence, a +sea-like swell and sweep, a bannered tramp as of armies rushing to +deadly conflict. With one hand on his manuscript, and the other jerked +forward with electric energy, he thunders out his gigantic +periods, as if winged with "volleyed lightning." The hearers are +astonished,--awed,--carried away,--lifted up as on the wings of the +wind, and borne "whithersoever the master listeth." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + Biographical Sketch of Dr. Chalmers. + + +As an evangelical divine, a preacher of great strength and earnestness, +a man of a truly devout and generous spirit, of great independence, +energy and perseverance, a leader of the Free Church of Scotland, and a +successful advocate of the doctrine of Christ's supremacy, Dr. Chalmers +may be regarded as a fair embodiment of the religious spirit of his +native land. In his mode of thinking, in his doctrinal belief and +practice, especially in his devout and fervid eloquence, the Doctor is +eminently Scottish. His whole spirit is bathed in the piety of "the +Covenant." On this account a brief sketch of his history will not be +inappropriate in this place. + +Thomas Chalmers, D. D., was born about the year 1780, in the town of +Anstruther in Fifeshire, the birth-place of another man of genius, +Professor Tennant, of St. Andrews, the celebrated author of "Anster +Fair," one of the most facetious poems in the language, and making a +near approach to the dramatic energy of "Tam O'Shanter." Young Chalmers +gave decided indications of genius and energy, and was sent to the +College of St. Andrews, and soon became "a mathematician, a natural +philosopher, and though there was no regular professor of that science +at St. Andrews, a chemist." After having been licensed as a preacher, he +officiated for sometime, as assistant minister, at Cavers in +Roxburghshire. He was subsequently called to the care of the parish +church in Kilmany, beautifully situated "amid the green hills and +smiling valleys," of his native county. He was ordained on the 12th of +May, 1803, and soon displayed the vigor and activity of his mind. In +addition to his regular parochial engagements, he devoted much attention +to botany and chemistry; lectured on the latter science and kindred +subjects in the neighboring towns; became an officer in a volunteer +corps; assisted the late Professor Vilant in teaching the mathematical +class in the College of St. Andrews; on the succeeding session opened a +private class of his own, on the same branch of science, to which all +the students flocked; and wrote one or two books, and several pamphlets +on the topics of the day. His first publication appeared at Cupar in +Fife on what was called the Leslie Controversy. It was written in the +form of a letter addressed to Professor Playfair; and abounds in talent, +wit and humor. It was published anonymously, and for a long time was not +known to be his. He vindicates in it very powerfully, the divines of the +Church of Scotland, from the imputation of a want of mathematical +talent, a reproach which he thought Professor Playfair had thrown upon +them. He also wrote a volume on the resources of the country, which +attracted much attention, as a work of ability and eloquence. + +From these statements it must be evident that Dr. Chalmers had but +little time to devote to the spiritual interests of his parish. He +performed his _stated_ duties, it is true, but devoted his energies +chiefly to literary and scientific pursuits. Indeed he was in religious +belief a rationalist, and had not yet adopted those profound and +spiritual convictions which subsequently formed the main-spring of his +ministry. In 1805 he offered himself as a candidate for the vacant chair +of Mathematics in the University of Edinburgh, with considerable chances +of success, but afterwards withdrew his name at the earnest solicitation +of his friends, who wished to retain him in the Church. + +When Dr. Brewster's Edinburgh Encyclopedia was projected Dr. Chalmers +was engaged as one of the contributors, and wrote the article +"Christianity," which was subsequently published in a separate form. It +was about this time that his mind underwent a radical change on the +subject of vital religion. He discovered the utter inefficiency of a +utilitarian morality, for the renovation and guidance of man, and +eagerly embraced those peculiar views of evangelical faith, which +recognize the sacrifice and intercession of Christ as a ground of hope +to the fallen, the necessity of "being born of the Spirit," and the +ineffable beauty and blessedness of "a life hid with Christ in God." It +is said that this change took place while writing the article referred +to; he then felt the necessity of acting upon his own principles, of +yielding his heart absolutely and forever, to the truths of that +Revelation, the reality and authority of which he was called to prove. +It will be remembered by those acquainted with the article in question, +that he takes the ground that a divine revelation must necessarily be +mysterious; that coming from God, it must belong to the infinite +and the obscure, and thus contain many things which shock our +preconceptions,--that _a priori_ objections to its doctrines are +therefore null and void, and that the whole must be received, without +exception or modification. He insists that while we have experience of +man, we have little or no experience of God, that the thoughts of such a +Being must infinitely transcend ours, and in all probability contradict +ours, especially with reference to the great problem touching the +salvation of the guilty. If then the genuineness and authenticity of the +sacred books can be proved as historical facts, we have nothing to do +with the revelation which they contain, but to receive it with adoring +gratitude and submission. The incarnation of the Godhead, the sacrifice +of the Cross, justification by faith, the re-birth of the soul by the +Holy Spirit, the resurrection of the body, and eternal judgement are +revealed facts or truths, already proved, and must therefore constitute +the heart's-creed of every true believer. These doctrines consequently +were embraced by Chalmers himself, and formed thenceforward the subjects +of his preaching to the people. A great excitement ensued. The community +was aroused--multitudes were converted. Chalmers preached with the +greatest fervor and unction, and hundreds flocked to hear him from the +neighboring parishes. This produced inquiry, and he found it necessary +to give explanations in reference to the causes which had effected such +a change in his ministry. In this view the following will be read with +interest and profit: + +"And here I cannot but record the effect of an actual though undesigned +experiment which I prosecuted upwards of twelve years amongst you. For +the greater part of that time I could expatiate on the meanness of +dishonesty, on the villany of falsehood, on the despicable arts of +calumny--in a word upon all those deformities of character which awaken +the natural indignation of the human heart against the pests and the +disturbers of society. Now, could I, upon the strength of these warm +expostulations, have got the thief to give up his stealing, and the evil +speaker his censoriousness, and the liar his deviations from truth, I +should have felt all the repose of one who had gotten his ultimate +object. It never occurred to me that all this might have been done, and +yet every soul of every hearer have remained in full alienation from +God; and that even could I have established in the bosom of one who +stole such a principle of abhorrence at the meanness of dishonesty that +he was prevailed upon to steal no more, he might still have retained a +heart as completely unturned to God, and as totally unpossessed of a +principle of love to Him as before. In a word, though I might have made +him a more upright and honorable man, I might have left him as destitute +of the essence of religious principle as ever. But the interesting fact +is that during the whole of that period in which I made no attempt +against the natural enmity of the mind to God, while I was inattentive +to the way in which this enmity is dissolved, even by the free offer on +the one hand, and the believing acceptance on the other, of the Gospel +salvation; while Christ, through whose blood the sinner, who by nature +stands afar off, is brought near to the Heavenly Lawgiver whom he has +offended, was scarcely ever spoken of, or spoken of in such a way as +stripped him of all the importance of his character and offices, even at +this time I certainly did press the reformations of honor, and truth, +and integrity among my people; but I never even heard of any such +reformations being effected amongst them. If there was anything at all +brought about in this way, it was more than I ever got any account of. I +am not sensible that all the vehemence with which I urged the virtues +and the proprieties of social life had the weight of a feather on the +moral habits of my parishioners. And it was not till I got impressed +with the utter alienation of the heart in its desires and affections +from God; it was not till reconciliation to Him became the distinct and +the prominent object of my ministerial exertions; it was not till I took +the scriptural way of laying the method of reconciliation before them; +it was not till the free offer of forgiveness through the blood of +Christ was urged upon their acceptance, and the Holy Spirit given +through the channel of Christ's mediatorship to all who ask him, was +set before them as the unceasing object of their dependence and their +prayers; it was not, in one word, till the contemplations of my people +were turned to these great and essential elements in the business of a +soul providing for its interest with God, and the concerns of its +eternity, that I ever heard of any of those subordinate reformations +which I aforetime made the earnest and the zealous, but I am afraid, at +the same time, ultimate object of my earlier ministrations. To servants, +whose scrupulous fidelity has now attracted the notice and drawn forth, +in my hearing, a delightful testimony from your masters, what mischief +ye would have done, had your zeal for doctrines and sacraments been +accompanied by the sloth and remissness, and what, in the prevailing +tone of moral relaxation, is counted the allowable purloining of your +earlier days! But a sense of your heavenly Master's eye has brought +another influence to bear upon you; and while you are thus striving to +adorn the doctrine of God your Saviour in all things, you may, poor as +you are, reclaim the great ones of the land to the acknowledgment of the +faith. You have, at least, taught me that to preach Christ, is the only +effective way of preaching morality in all its branches; and out of your +humble cottages have I gathered a lesson, which I pray God I may be +enabled to carry with all its simplicity into a wider theatre, and to +bring, with all the power of its subduing efficacy upon the vices of a +more crowded population." + +In 1815 Dr. Chalmers was translated to the Tron church of Glasgow, and +here displayed all the resources of his brilliant and vigorous mind. +Fired with a generous ardor for the salvation of souls, he poured the +truth of God upon rapt and crowded congregations. In addition to the +indefatigable performance of his ministerial duties, he embarked with +eagerness in plans for the amelioration of the condition of the poor. He +urged the importance of free school education, and although he had to +encounter much prejudice, he accomplished a large amount of good for the +city of Glasgow. His views upon this subject are developed in a large +work, published at the time, on the "Christian and Civic Condition of +Large Towns,"--a production somewhat elaborate and diffuse, but +abounding in important suggestions and earnest appeals. + +In 1816 he was invited to preach before the King's Commissioner in the +High Church of Edinburgh. His discourse on that occasion comprised the +essence of his astronomical sermons, and was probably "as magnificent a +display of eloquence as was ever heard from the pulpit." The effect upon +the audience was immediate and electric. It broke upon them like a +shower of light from the opening heavens. By means of this discourse his +fame was perhaps first widely established. From that day crowds followed +him wherever he went, and, to quote his own words, he began to feel the +burden "of a popularity of stare, and pressure and animal heat." + +In 1819 Dr. Chalmers removed to the new church and parish of St. +John's, in which place the writer, while a student at Glasgow College, +had the pleasure of hearing some of his thrilling discourses. He was +then in the hey-day of life, full of mental and bodily vigor, and +preached with a rapidity, force, and pathos perfectly overwhelming. He +continued to devote himself to the interests of the poor, and indeed +took part in every plan which contemplated the welfare of society. + +In 1823 he was elected Professor of Moral Philosophy in the University +of St. Andrews, "where he imparted a very different character to this +course from the mere worldly cast which it too generally assumes in our +universities." Firmly convinced of the great truths of the Gospel, he +infused into his prelections the spirit of a profound and earnest +godliness. While here, he also delivered a separate course of lectures +on Political Economy, as connected with the chair of Moral Philosophy. + +It may be supposed from his frequent changes that Dr. Chalmers was +either a fickle or an ambitious man. But those best acquainted with the +circumstances, feel assured that this could not possibly have been the +case. He neither increased his income nor his popularity by means of +these changes, and all, we doubt not, were made with a view to greater +usefulness. In one instance, certainly, he proved his disinterestedness +by refusing the most wealthy living in the Church of Scotland, the west +parish of Greenock, which was presented to him by the patron. + +He was more than once offered an Edinburgh church, but uniformly +declined it; as he had long conceived that his widest sphere of +usefulness was a theological chair. He was accordingly elected to this +office, in the University of Edinburgh, and soon attracted the attention +of a large and enthusiastic class of students. His lectures were able +and brilliant; but this, in our judgment, was not the principal cause of +his success. It consisted, as we believe, in his own ardor and +enthusiasm, and the consequent ardor and enthusiasm which he inspired in +his pupils. "At one time the object of the young men seemed to be to +evade attendance on the Divinity Lecture; now the difficulty became to +get a good place to hear their eloquent instructor." By this means much +good was accomplished for the Church of Scotland, by diffusing amongst +its ministry a true evangelical spirit. Still we believe that Dr. +Chalmer's true sphere of labor was the pulpit, and that here alone he +could exert his widest influence. It is true he preached occasionally +while occupying the chair of Divinity, and gave a series of lectures on +Church Establishments, which at that time he earnestly defended. "He +considered that each established _church_ throughout the land may be +termed a centre of _emanation_, from which Christianity, with proper +zeal, be made to move by an aggressive and converting operation, on the +wide mass of the people; whilst a dissenting _chapel_ he views as a +centre of _attraction_ only for those who are religiously disposed." +Recently the Doctor has found his _centre_ of _emanation_ sadly +curtailed. The union of church and state has proved, even to him, a +prodigious hindrance and difficulty--a proof this, that theory and fact +are very different things. + +It was while Professor of Theology in Edinburgh, as we believe, that he +visited London, and attracted so much attention by his sermons and +lectures. While there, Mr. Canning, Lord Castlereagh, Lord Eldon, the +Duke of Sussex, with several branches of the Royal Family, whom, as the +journals remarked, "they were not accustomed to elbow at a place of +worship," were found anxiously waiting to hear this modern Chrysostom. +Caught by the irresistible charm of true genius and piety, they listened +with wonder and delight to his honest and earnest appeals. They felt and +acknowledged that his sermons, "as far transcended those of the mawkish +productions to be frequently met with, as does the genius of Milton or +of Newton surpass that of the common herd of poets and philosophers." It +was a sublime sight to behold crowds of all ranks and conditions +listening devoutly to the vehement exhortations of this man of God. + + "Can earth afford + Such genuine state, pre-eminence, so free, + As when arrayed in Christ's authority, + He from the pulpit lifts his awful hand; + Conjures, implores, and labors all he can + In resubjecting to Divine command + The stubborn spirit of rebellious man?" + + WORDSWORTH. + +Dr. Chalmers, as all are aware, is the principal leader of the Free +Church movement. He has uniformly asserted the supremacy of Christ in +his own church, and the right of the people to the election of their +pastors. This being denied and withheld by the legal authorities in +Scotland, Dr. Chalmers, and the noble host of ministers and churches +that agreed with him, departed in a body from "the Established Kirk." In +1843 he relinquished his station as Professor of Theology in the +University; and since that time has occupied the same office, in +connection with "the Free Church of Scotland." He is now considerably +advanced in years. His head is silvered with gray, and much of his +natural strength is abated. But his mind is yet clear and strong, his +heart calm and joyful; and we can only hope and pray that he may be +spared many years to come, as an ornament to his country, and an honor +to the Church. + +It is not our purpose in this place to say much on the subject of the +published works of Dr. Chalmers. These are quite voluminous. The English +edition of his works consists of twenty-five duodecimo volumes. Of these +the two first volumes on _Natural Theology_, the third and fourth on the +_Evidences of Christianity_, the fifth on _Moral Philosophy_, the sixth, +_Commercial Discourses_, the seventh, _Astronomical Discourses_, and the +last four on _Paul's Epistle to the Romans_, are the most interesting +and valuable.[18] In style and arrangement, in logic and definition, +they possess some obvious defects, but ever indicate a genius of the +highest order, a heart burning with love and zeal, a conscience void of +offence toward God and toward all men; and a devotion, akin to that of +angels and the spirits of just men made perfect.[19] + +[Footnote 18: All these, with the addition of four volumes of Sermons, +forming the Theological Works of Dr. Chalmers, have been republished, in +handsome form, by Mr. Carter of New York.] + +[Footnote 19: In the introduction to "Vinet's Vital Christianity," I +have given a more elaborate estimate of the mental peculiarities of Dr. +Chalmers, in connection with those of Vinet, "the Chalmers of +Switzerland." + +Since the above sketch was written Dr. Chalmers has gone to his rest. He +died suddenly and unexpectedly on the 31st of May, 1847.] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + Dr. John Brown of Edinburgh--Rev. John Brown of + Whiteburn--Professor John Brown of Haddington--Rev. Dr. + Candlish--Specimen of his Preaching. + + +Before leaving the Edinburgh clergy, I wish to give you some account of +the Rev. Dr. John Brown, minister of Broughton Place Chapel, and +Professor of exegetical Theology in the United Secession Church, one of +the most amiable and accomplished of the Scottish ministers. He is the +son of the Rev. John Brown of Whiteburn, and the grandson of the Rev. +John Brown of Haddington, of whom I shall have something to say before +the close of the chapter. + +Dr. Brown is between fifty and sixty years of age, with a fine form and +expressive countenance. Rather tall and slender, he looks much as one +might conceive the Apostle John to have done. His countenance is mild +and dignified, nose slightly aquiline, brow arched and high, eyes dark +and piercing, and his mouth indicative of mingled firmness and delicacy +of character. His hair, once dark as the ravens, bears the marks of age +and thought. In his youth, he was extremely vigorous and active; but he +is evidently passing into "the sere and yellow leaf." + +Dr. Brown is a man of decided talent, though distinguished more for +clearness and strength of intellect, than for genius and imagination. +His mind is highly cultivated, but it seldom glows and sparkles. His +discourses are always interesting and instructive, but not often +thrilling or overpowering. They never fall below mediocrity, are always +clear, sensible and useful, but perhaps never rise to the highest heaven +of invention. In this respect he much resembles the celebrated Dr. +Wardlaw, though, as a speaker, he is more effective. Dr. Wardlaw +uniformly reads his sermons, Dr. Brown does not even use notes. He +preaches probably from memory, as is the case with most of the Scottish +clergy. They practice "the committing" of their sermons from their +youth, and acquire astonishing facility in this exercise, on which +account their preaching is often distinguished as much for its accuracy, +as its energy and freedom. Dr. Brown appears to great advantage in the +pulpit. His ease, energy, gracefulness and variety of tone, attitude, +and expression, are equally striking. Occasionally he hesitates for a +word, but never fails to find the right one. His language is remarkably +full and accurate. His topics, too are uniformly well selected, clearly +divided and thoroughly discussed. If he does not, like Chalmers, awe and +subdue his audience, he seldom fails to interest and instruct them. His +style is lucid and vivacious, and well adapted to useful practical +preaching. A tone of deep and fervid piety pervades the whole, giving +the impression that a man of God is addressing to you the messages of +Heaven. + +Dr. Brown is orthodox, but liberal in his views and feelings. As a +theologian he belongs to the school of the moderate Calvinists. In +connection with the late amiable and accomplished Dr. Balmer of Berwick, +he was called to account some years ago, for his views of the atonement, +which he regards not as a restricted, but as a universal blessing, that +is to say, as a blessing, intended for the benefit not of a class, but +of the whole world. This gave rise to a war of words, and to much +useless recrimination in the courts of the United Secession Church, +which have left the matter pretty much where it was before. Dr. Brown's +views, however, are becoming prevalent in Scotland. + +Dr. Brown has done much to promote the study of Biblical Literature, +which has received comparatively little attention in Scotland. As +theologians the Scottish preachers are sound and practical, but with the +exception of Dr. Campbell of Aberdeen, and Dr. McKnight of Edinburgh, +they have not distinguished themselves for their critical +investigations. A new spirit begins to prevail among them. The highly +respectable denomination with which Dr. Brown is connected, is making +rapid advances in this interesting branch of Biblical study. + +Dr. Brown has taken an active part in the discussion of the question +touching the seperation of Church and State, and has published one or +two pamphlets upon the subject. In polemics he has always evinced a +sober and generous spirit. + +The family, from which the subject of these remarks is descended, has +been highly distinguished for its talents and piety. The most of its +members have been eminent and useful preachers for several generations. +Dr. Brown's father, the Rev. John Brown, of Whiteburn, was for many +years one of the most devout and useful ministers of the Secession +Church. Indeed, he was a perfect patriarch in the rural district, where +he exercised his ministry. Every one knew him and loved him, as a man of +singular goodness and apostolic zeal. When a boy the writer used to +attend his church, and well does he remember his meek and venerable +countenance, and the thrilling tones of his musical voice. He rode about +his parish on an old white pony, fat and good-natured like his master; +and never failed, when he met one of his youthful parishioners, to stop +and enter into conversation with him. "Weel, my lad," he would say, +patting my head, "how d'ye do--and how's your faither, and how's your +mither? And a' the family, are they weel? Gie them my compliments. And +now you maun be a good boy; dinna forget to say your prayers, and God +will bless you. Gude day!" So off he would amble with a benignant smile, +leaving a sweet and holy impression behind him, not forgotten to this +very day. In preaching, Mr. Brown had a peculiar tone or tune, which at +times was perfectly thrilling. He frequently used the Scottish dialect +in the more pathetic and practical parts of his discourses, and by this +means produced a great impression upon his simple-hearted hearers. His +style, too, was naturally quaint and terse, and this, set off by his +benignant look, his varied and tender tones, often made his sermons very +memorable. Some of his illustrations I remember now, though I ceased to +hear him preach in my eighth year, having been removed to another part +of the country. The following are specimens, perhaps not the best that +might be given, but certainly characteristic. "There are three sorts of +folks in the world; the butterfly, the wasp, and the bee. The butterfly +is the gaudy fool, the wasp is the malicious wicked, but the bee is the +gude Christian!" Imagine this, and the following, uttered with a +peculiar sing-song and most expressive look and emphasis. "When ye see +reek coming out at the chimney, ye may conclude there's fire in the +house; so, when ye hear a man cursing and swearing, ye may be sure that +the fire of hell is kindled in that man's heart!" "O my friends, hold on +and persevere in the good ways of the Lord. A few more losses and +crosses, a few more troubles and trials, and we'll cross the swellings +o' Jordan, and then, O then, we'll sit and sing thegither on the hills +of Zion!" "Fear not, little flock, it is your Father's good pleasure to +give you the kingdom. O the heart of our heavenly Father is a heart of +tenderness and love. He will never leave you, nor forsake you. Why, only +think on't--ye'r his ain dear bairns; he'll tak you by the han', and +lead you through the wilderness, till he bring you safe to the Heavenly +Canaan, the hame of his children, the inheritance of his family!" + +Good old man! he has gone, long since, to that blessed "hame" where +faithful ministers meet their beloved flocks, and "sing together on the +hills of Zion!" + +Mr. Brown had a brother _Ebenezer_, minister of Inverkeithing, who was +still more distinguished as a preacher. In his boyhood he was "a great +rogue," and used to teaze his "douce" and pious brother John, and +occasion a good deal of trouble to his worthy father. But he was +converted when a young man, and became an exceedingly devout and +eloquent preacher. I had the pleasure of hearing him preach once in the +open air, at a sacramental occasion connected with his brother's +congregation in Whiteburn, but have a very indistinct recollection of +the discourse. But I well remember his earnest look, and the thrilling +tones of his powerful voice. He was of small stature, but spoke with +great force and vehemence, and occasionally with the same sing-song +voice, common among the old Scottish preachers. The congregation was +rapt: a solemn stillness pervaded the atmosphere all around, so that one +could hear the chirpings of the grasshopper, and the song of the bird in +the neighboring woods, during the pauses of his long and earnest +sentences. + +The father of John Brown of Whiteburn, and grandfather of Dr. John Brown +of Edinburgh, was the celebrated professor John Brown, author of the +Self-Interpreting Bible, Exposition of the Assembly's Shorter Catechism, +and other works; and teacher of Theology in the United Secession Church. +He was an extraordinary man. When a poor shepherd boy, he conceived the +idea of learning Latin and Greek, and having procured a few old books, +actually accomplished the task, while tending his cattle on the hills. +So successful was he, that some of the old and superstitious people in +the neighborhood concluded that he must have been assisted by "the evil +spirit." On one occasion he went to Edinburgh, plaided and barefoot, +walked into a bookseller's shop, and asked for a Greek Testament. "What +are you going to do with a Greek Testament?" said the bookseller. "Read +it," was the prompt reply. "Read it!" exclaimed the sceptical +bookseller, with a smile; "ye may have it for nothing if ye'll read it." +Taking the book, he quietly read off a few verses, and gave the +translation; on which he was permitted to carry off the Greek Testament +in triumph. + +Professor Brown was an eminently holy man. He was equally distinguished +for his simplicity and dignity of character. His preaching was much +admired by old and judicious persons. On one occasion, when he and +others were assisting a brother minister in services preparatory to the +celebration of the Lord's Supper, which services in Scotland usually +take place on the last days of the week preceding the "sacramental +sabbath," and are frequently held in the open air, a couple of gay young +men had been out hunting, and on their return home drew near to the +large congregation who were listening at that moment to the preaching of +an eloquent but somewhat showy divine. After standing a few moments, the +one said to the other, "Did you ever hear such preaching as that?" +"No," he replied with an oath, "but he don't believe a word of it!" +After this preacher had closed, there stood up, in the "tent," (a +temporary pulpit erected in the open air for the accommodation of the +ministers,) an old, humble looking man, who announced his text in a +trembling voice, as if he were afraid to speak in God's name. He went +on, and became more and more interesting, more and more impressive. The +young men were awed, and listened with reverent attention to the close, +when the one, turning to the other, said, "And what d'ye think of that?" +"Think of it," he replied, "I don't know what to think. Why, didn't you +see how every now and then he turned round in the tent, as if Jesus +Christ were behind him, and he was asking, 'Lord, what shall I say +next?'" This preacher was John Brown, the secret of whose pulpit +eloquence was, the inspiration of an humble and contrite heart, touched +by the finger of the Almighty; an eloquence as far transcending that of +the mere orator as the divine and heavenly transcends the human and +earthly. This too, was the eloquence of the early Scottish +preachers,--of Knox and Rutherford, of Guthrie and Erskine, of Cameron +and Boston. This fired the hearts of the people with a holy and +all-conquering zeal; this shed a glory over the death of the martyrs, +and diffused among their descendants the love of "the Covenant" and the +love of God. May this ever continue to be the eloquence not only of the +Church in Scotland but of the Church throughout the world! + +There is one other preacher in Edinburgh, of whom it would be desirable +to give a full-length portrait. I refer to Dr. Candlish, certainly one +of the most popular and effective preachers in the Free Church of +Scotland. But I am not in possession of the materials for such a +portrait, having heard him preach only once, and being imperfectly +acquainted with the events of his life. He is probably about forty-five +years of age, rather short of stature, and not particularly imposing or +prepossessing in appearance. His face is rather long and sallow, but set +off by an immense forehead, dark bushy hair, and a pair of fine black +eyes. He stands bolt upright in the pulpit, and speaks in a clear, +strong, deliberate, yet rapid voice. Judging from his published +discourses, and the single specimen which I heard, I should think him +destitute of pathetic power. He is evidently most at home in the regions +of ratiocination. His language is copious, energetic, and harmonious. In +clearness and finish it is decidedly superior to that of Chalmers, and +little inferior to Robert Hall's. It possesses a stateliness, combined +with a bounding energy, which render it very effective. His method is +remarkably lucid, and his reasoning strong and convincing. In fancy, in +touching pathos, in overwhelming energy, in the vivid lightning flashes +of genius, he is greatly inferior to Chalmers; but in clearness of +definition, in compactness and purity of style, in strength of logic, +and in completeness of arrangement and finish, he must be acknowledged +superior. His discourses are highly evangelical. They abound in clear +and instructive statements, and defences of the cardinal truths of the +Gospel. If deficient, it is in directness and pungency of appeal, in +holy pathos, in solemn and subduing unction. + +As a debater, Dr. Candlish stands pre-eminent. He may not possess the +ponderous strength of Cunningham, the overpowering energy of Chalmers, +the quick and versatile humor of Guthrie, or the eloquent polish of +Buchanan. But he possesses, in unusual combination, clearness of method, +logical acumen, force and beauty of style, and an easy, graceful, +commanding elocution. When Chalmers dies, we predict that Candlish will +be the leader in the courts of the Free Church of Scotland. + +Dr. Candlish has published quite a number of occasional sermons, and a +volume of lectures on the record of the Creation in the book of Genesis. +These lectures are interesting and instructive, but to our taste, they +are too diffuse and elaborate, and not sufficiently critical, or rather +exegetical and compact. They say much about a thing, without actually +saying the thing itself. But this is rather the fault of their design or +plan, than of their execution, which as a whole indicates a high degree +of talent. They contain many fine passages, and valuable suggestions. + +Among his published discourses, one of the best is on the "Incompetency +of Reason, and the Fitness of Revelation;" from Acts xvii. 23. "Whom +therefore ye ignorantly worship, him declare I unto you." The following +passage from that discourse will give a fair idea of his power. Speaking +of the mournful condition of those who delight to investigate the works +of God, but have never found God himself, he says:--"They may feel a +proud and high satisfaction, arising from the importance of the +knowledge acquired in the successful employment of their powers and +faculties of mind. But brethren, they scarcely meet, in all the various +and diversified tracks which they take, and in all the endless varieties +of objects which encounter their judgments--they scarcely ever meet +their God; they scarcely ever find him in the way; they scarcely ever +seek him. In the wondrous elements, the richly scattered treasures of +power, and wisdom and goodness, through which they make their progress, +they cannot shut their eyes to the presence of God; they must +acknowledge a God: but it is God with attributes of their own choosing, +not the God of Scripture,--the God of nature, not the God of justice. +_Him_ they exclude from their view; _Him_ they do not like to retain in +their thoughts; and in the circumstances in which they cultivate the +idea of a God, if mingling in their researches at all, they strip their +ideas of all which might remind them of their unsettled controversy with +Him. Conceive of a man in such a state, so blind as to have exercised +his powers of discovery, in the full blaze of all the glory and the +terrible majesty of a just God and a Saviour, without really finding +him, condemned to carry on his future work of discovery with a clear and +startling apprehension of all the moral attributes of God--his +holiness,--his justice,--his truth--all as manifested in the cross of +Christ, and all still carried on in a carnal mind and a self-condemned +heart. Where now will be the joy of his lofty inquiries? Where now the +triumph of his lofty powers of knowledge? Every object he contemplates +now, is connected with the idea of a righteous God; every subject he can +examine now, is fraught with the presence of a righteous God; every new +ray of light that meets his eye, reveals to him a righteous God; every +sound carries to his ear the name of God, repeated by a thousand echoes. +He can make no experiment now that will not show him more of the wonders +and terrors of God. He can look at nothing, he can think of nothing, +that does not speak to him of God, and remind him of his justice: and +all the bold traces of his profound discoveries regarding nature, now do +but suggest reminiscences of nature's God as a God of judgment; and so +the very faculty which was ever his pride and admiration,--the capacity +of deep reflection and enlightened inquiry, does but add new sting and +torture to his reprobate mind, by suggesting always, everywhere, and in +all things, new images and representations of that awful, that Almighty +Being, whom he has chosen to make his foe." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + Ride into the Country--The Skylark--Poems on the Skylark by Shelley + and the 'Ettrick Shepherd'--Newhall--'The Gentle + Shepherd'--Localities and Outlines of the Story--Its Popularity in + Scotland. + + +'Tis a beautiful morning in early June. The sun is peeping over Arthur's +Seat, and glancing from the turrets of the old Castle. The carriage is +ready, and Sandy the driver is cracking his whip with impatience. So, +take your place, and let us be off. Passing 'Bruntsfield Links' we +plunge into the very heart of the country, so rich and varied, with park +and woodland scenery, handsome villas, and sweet acclivities. Yonder is +Merchiston Castle, the birth-place of the celebrated Napier, the +inventor of Logarithms. A little further on, we reach the smiling +village of Morningside, and pass some pretty country residences, with +pleasant grounds and picturesque views. We enter a narrow and thickly +wooded dell, through which tinkles a small rivulet, called the Braid +Burn. At the bottom we come to the Braid Hermitage, as sweet a sylvan +retreat as ever greeted the eye of the rural wanderer. Those rocky +heights above us are the Braid Hills, from which can be enjoyed some of +the most splendid views in Scotland. Leaving the carriage a few minutes +we ascend that lofty eminence, and gaze, with delight upon the vast and +beautiful landscape, including the city of Edinburgh, the Firth of +Forth, with its "emerald islands," and the winding shores of Fife in the +distance. Blackford hill, a little to the north of us is the spot +mentioned in "Marmion:" + + "Still on the spot Lord Marmion stay'd, + For fairer scene he ne'er survey'd, + When sated with the martial show + That peopled all the plains below, + The wandering eye could o'er it go, + And mark the distant city glow + With gloomy splendor red; + For on the smoke wreaths, huge and slow, + That round her sable turrets flow, + The morning beams were shed, + And tinged them with a lustre proud, + Like that which streaks a thunder cloud; + Such dusky grandeur clothed the height, + Where the huge castle holds its state, + And all the steep slope down, + Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky, + Piled deep and massy, close and high, + Mine own romantic town! + + But northward far with purer blaze + On Ochil mountains fell the rays, + And as each heathy top they kiss'd, + It gleamed a purple amethyst. + Yonder the shores of Fife you saw; + Here Preston Bay, and Berwick-Law, + And broad between them roll'd + The gallant Firth the eye might note, + Whose islands on its bosom float, + Like emeralds chased in gold." + +Descending from the hill we resume our journey, musing on the days of +old, when "shrill fife and martial drum" awakened the echoes of these +peaceful vales, now resounding with the melody of birds. How delightful +the gushing music of those sky-larks, which descends upon us from +"heaven's gates," like a shower of "embodied gladness." Why, it seems as +if a hundred of them were soaring "i' the lift," and singing with a +joyous energy, akin to that of the blessed spirits in heaven. To me, the +lark is the noblest of all birds, the most pure and spirit-like of all +aerial songsters. In Scotland, too, she seems to sing the sweetest and +strongest. Others may praise the nightingale, if they please, and my own +heart has often thrilled, to hear, at the "witching time of night," her +wild and melancholy strain from some English copsewood, or Italian +grove. But nothing so rich and beautiful, so spirit-like and divine ever +greeted my ear as the glad singing of the heaven-aspiring lark. It +seemed as if the very spirit of song had taken wings, and were ascending +to God, in a flood of melody. But listen to the following strains +written by Shelley under the inspiration of the sky-lark's song: + + Hail to thee, blithe spirit, + Bird thou never wert, + That from heaven or near it + Pourest thy full heart + In profuse strains of unpremeditated art. + + Higher still and higher + From the earth thou springest, + Like a cloud of fire! + The blue deep thou wingest, + And singing, still dost soar; and soaring, ever singest. + + In the golden lightning + Of the sunken sun, + O'er which clouds are brightening, + Thou dost float and run; + Like an embodied joy, whose race has just begun. + + * * * * * + + All the earth and air + With thy voice is loud, + As, when night is bare + From one lonely cloud, + The moon rains out her beams, and heaven is overflowed. + + What thou art, we know not. + What is most like thee? + From rainbow clouds there flow not + Drops so bright to see, + As from thy presence showers a rain of melody + + Like a poet hidden + In the light of thought, + Singing hymns unbidden + Till the world is wrought + To sympathy with hopes and fears it heeded not. + + * * * * * + + Sound of vernal showers + On the twinkling grass, + Rain awakened flowers, + All that ever was + Joyous and fresh and clear thy music doth surpass. + + Teach me, sprite or bird, + What sweet thoughts are thine: + I have never heard + Praise of love or wine + That panted forth a flood of rapture so divine. + + Chorus hymeneal + Or triumphant chaunt, + Match'd with thine would be all + But an empty vaunt-- + A thing wherein we feel there is some hidden want. + + What objects are the fountains + Of thy happy strain? + What fields or waves or mountains? + What shapes of sky or plain? + What love of thine own kind? What ignorance of pain? + + With thy clear keen joyance + Languor cannot be: + Shadow of annoyance + Never came near thee: + Thou lovest, but ne'er knew love's sad satiety. + + Waking or asleep + Thou of death must deem, + Things more true and deep + Than we mortals dream, + Or how could thy note flow in such a crystal stream? + + We look before and after, + And pine for what is not; + Our sincerest laughter, + With some pain is fraught: + Our sweetest songs are those which tell of saddest thought. + + Better than all measures + Of delightful sound, + Better than all treasures + That in books are found, + Thy skill to poet were, thou scorner of the ground! + + Teach me half the gladness, + That thy brain must know; + Such harmonious madness + From my lips would flow, + The world should listen then, as I am listening now. + +Inferior to this, but still very beautiful, more natural, and more +especially Scottish, are the following lines to the Skylark by the +"Ettrick Shepherd:" + + Bird of the wilderness, + Blithesome and cumberless, + Sweet be thy matin o'er moorland and lea! + Emblem of happiness, + Blest is thy dwelling place-- + O to abide in the desert with thee! + Wild is thy lay and loud, + Far in the downy cloud, + Love gives it energy, love gave it birth. + Where on thy dewy wing, + Where art thou journeying? + Thy lay is in heaven, thy love is on earth. + + O'er fell and fountain sheen, + O'er moor and mountain green, + O'er the red streamer that heralds the day, + Over the cloudlet dim, + Over the rainbow's rim, + Musical cherub, soar singing away! + Then when the gloaming comes + Low in the heather blooms, + Sweet will thy welcome and bed of love be! + Emblem of happiness, + Blest is thy dwelling place-- + O to abide in the desert with thee! + +Filled with these pleasant images, we pursue our journey, and wind along +the edge of the Pentland Hills, with their thrilling memories of +"Auld-lang-syne;" pass the "bonnie braes" of Woodhouselee, and reach old +Glencorse Church, "bosomed high 'mong tufted trees;" cross "a bonnie +burn," called "Logan Water," and get a glimpse of "House of Muir," in +the vicinity of which the old Scottish Covenanters met with a terrible +slaughter, from General Dalzell of Binns, the "bluidy Dalzell," as the +Scots call him to this day. Passing through the humble village of Silver +Burn, we reach Newhall, once the residence of Dr. Pennycuick, a poet +and an antiquary, and subsequently of the Forbes family highly +distinguished for their talents and virtues. Disposing of our carriage, +let us ramble, at our "own sweet will," amid those beautiful grounds. +The mansion of Newhall, once a battlemented castle of the Crichtoun +family, stands on the left bank of the North Esk, within a curvature of +the stream, under the shadow of the Pentland Hills. On either side is a +deep ravine, terminating in the glen of the Esk, one of the most +romantic spots in Scotland. Passing round on the eastern side, we gaze +down into the ravine, overhung by the remains of a small round tower, +and densely shaded with tangled trees. A dark rill gurgles at the +bottom, here and there leaping into beautiful cascades, and flinging its +glittering spray among the dark woods. Passing to the other side, we +come to what was formerly the site of an old prison and chapel, +encircled by a pleasant walk. The ravine beneath is filled with trees +and shrubbery, but has no stream. From this point the eye glances up +through the wooded glen, echoing with the songs of the mavis and the +linnet, and over to a mineral well, sheltered by copsewood and pines. + +But Newhall, and the grounds around it, derive their chief interest from +their connection with the well-known pastoral poem of "Allan Ramsay." +The very air seems redolent with the poetry of "The Gentle Shepherd." +Leaving the house, we reach a little "haugh," or low sheltered spot, +where the Esk and the rivulets from the Harbour Craig mingle their +waters. At the side of the stream are some romantic gray crags, directly +fronting the south, and looking up a turn in the glen. These, adorned +with green birches, shrubs, and copsewood, and shading the limpid stream +which makes a curve, and then glides underneath their overhanging +cliffs, form "a shady bield," completely protected from observation. In +this spot is laid the first act of "The Gentle Shepherd." + + "Beneath the south side of a craggy field, + Where crystal springs the halesome water yield, + Twa youthful shepherds on the gowans lay, + Tenting their flocks ae bonny morn of May." + +Ascending the vale, and just behind the house, we come to a considerable +holm or green, with the babbling burn, now gentler in its movement, +winding sweetly among the white pebbles. At the head of this quiet +retreat, on the edge of the burn, are the ruins of an ancient +washing-house, protected by an aged thorn. It was here that the "twa +lasses" proposed to wash their "claes," unseen by their lovers. + + "A flowery howm between twa verdant braes, + Where lasses use to wash and spread their claes, + A trotting burnie wimpling through the ground; + Its channel pebbles shining smooth and round." + +A little further up the burn we come to a hollow, a little beyond what +is called "Mary's Bower," where the Esk divides it in the middle, and +forms a linn or cascade, called the "How Burn;" a small enclosure above +is called the "Braehead Park;" and this hollow beneath the cascade with +its bathing pool and little green, its rocks and birches, its wild +shrubs and natural flowers, and general air of sequestered and romantic +beauty, in every respect corresponds with the poet's exquisite +description of the spot called "Habbie's Howe." + + "Gae farer up the burn to Habbie's Howe, + Where a' the sweets o' spring and summer grow, + There, 'tween twa birks out ower a little linn, + The water fa's and mak's a singand din;[20] + A pule breast deep, beneath as clear as glass, + Kisses wi' easy whirls the bordering grass." + +[Footnote 20: Singing noise.] + +Ascending yet further, at a place called the "Carlops," (a contraction +of "Carline's Loups," so called, in consequence of a witch or carline +having been seen leaping, at night, from one rock to another,) two tall +rocks shoot up on either side. Near this, by the side of that old ash +tree, stood Mause's Cottage. + + "The open field, a cottage in a glen, + An auld wife spinning at the sunny end, + At a sma' distance, by a blasted tree, + Wi faulded arms and half-raised look, ye see + Bauldy his lane!"[21] + + "A green kail-yard; a little fount, + Where water poplin springs; + There sits a wife[22] wi' wrinkled front, + An' yet she spins and sings." + +[Footnote 21: Alone.] + +[Footnote 22: Old woman.] + +With these localities in our mind, let us sit down on this "gowan'd +brae," and run over the story of "The Gentle Shepherd," one of the most +graphic pictures of Scottish manners, and one of the sweetest pastorals +in any language. + +Patie or Patrick, a humble shepherd-lad, born and bred in the region we +have entered, about the middle of the seventeenth century, was a +handsome fellow, and remarkably distinguished for his good temper and +rustic accomplishments. He was of a gay-hearted cheerful disposition, +and made the woods and hills ring again with his mirthful songs. +Moreover, he was sensible and well-informed. His mind, indeed, was +superior to his station; still he was contented and happy. + +Symon Scott, a worthy man and a wealthy farmer, with whom Patie had +lived from his childhood, was a tenant of Sir William Preston's, owner +of the neighboring lands, who, to save his head, he having taken part +with the royalists, had fled his native country, and was living abroad, +no one knew where. + +Patie loved Peggy Forsyth, a "neebor lassie," of excellent character and +great beauty, who fully requited his attachment. This girl was the +reputed niece of Glaude Anderson, a comfortable farmer, and a tenant of +Sir William's. He had found her one summer morning, at his door, +carefully wrapped in swaddling clothes. Being a warm-hearted man, he had +adopted the little stranger as his own relative. + +The interviews and conversations of the lovers, and their friends, Roger +and Jenny, who after some embarrassments from Jenny's independence, are +found to be warmly attached to each other are related by the dramatist +with great beauty and simplicity. The reader sees them at early morn, or +amid the shadows of the gloaming, wandering by the "bonnie burnie's +side," and with hearts of innocence, giving themselves up to the full +enjoyment of nature's beauties and their own sweet affections. Glaude +and Symon are fine specimens of the honest and hospitable farmers of +Scotland. The house of the former is such as one often sees in the rural +districts: + + "A snug thack[23] house, before the door a green, + Hens on the midden, ducks in dubs[24] are seen. + On this side stands a barn, on that a byre:[25] + A peat stack joins, an' forms a rural square. + The house is Glaud's;--there you may see him lean, + And to his divot[26] seat invites his frien." + +[Footnote 23: Thatch.] + +[Footnote 24: Pools.] + +[Footnote 25: Barn for the cows.] + +[Footnote 26: Turf.] + +The character and fate of Bauldy are graphically described. He is a +wealthy but vulgar minded farmer, attached to Peggy, and resolved, if +possible, to withdraw her affections from Patie and secure them for +himself. For this purpose he has recourse to Mause, a sensible and +worthy old woman, but reputed a witch, from her superiority to the +common people. Mause agrees to assist him, but secretly resolves to +expose his ignorance and punish his effrontery. The following is +Bauldy's account of the matter: + + "Ah! Sir, the witch ca'd Mause, + That wins aboon the mill amang the haws, + First promised that she'd help me wi' her art, + To gain a bonnie thrawart[27] lassie's heart. + As she had trysted, I met wi' 'er this night; + But may nae frien o' mine get such a fright! + For the curst hag, instead of doing me guid, + (The very thocht o'ts like to freeze my bluid!) + Raised up a ghaist, or deil, I kenna whilk, + Like a dead corse, in sheet as white as milk; + Black hands it had, and face as wan as death; + Upon me fast the witch and it fell baith, + And got me down; while I like a great fool + Was 'laboured[28] as I used to be at school: + My heart out o' its hool[29] was like to loup, + I pithless[30] grew wi' fear, an' had nae houp, + Till wi' an elritch laugh, they vanished quite; + Syne I, hauf dead wi' anger, fear and spite, + Crap up, and fled straught frae them." + +[Footnote 27: Wayward.] + +[Footnote 28: Belabored.] + +[Footnote 29: Place or socket.] + +[Footnote 30: Powerless.] + +Tidings had arrived that Sir William, who had now been absent several +years, might be expected home, as the king was restored and the royal +party was now predominant. + +This tidings created the liveliest sensations of joy among Sir William's +tenantry, as he was much beloved for his kindness and generosity of +disposition. Old Symon Scott and Glaude Anderson were especially +delighted, and resolved, each of them, to celebrate the event with a +feast. Symon however had already begun to make preparations for a +banquet, to which he invited Glaude and all the old and young people of +the neighborhood: + + "It's Symon's house, please to step in, + And vissy't[31] round and round, + There's nought superfluous to gie pain, + Or costly to be found. + Yet a' is clean--a clear peat ingle[32] + Glances amidst the floor[33]; + The green horn spoons, beech luggies[34] mingle + On skelfs[35] foregainst the door. + While the young brood sport on the green, + The auld anes think it best, + Wi' the brown cow[36] to clear their een + Snuff, crack and tak their rest." + +[Footnote 31: Examine it.] + +[Footnote 32: A fire of peats.] + +[Footnote 33: In Scotland the old peasant houses have the fire in their +centre.] + +[Footnote 34: Cups of beech wood.] + +[Footnote 35: Shelves opposite the door.] + +[Footnote 36: Brown ale.] + +While they are engaged Sir William appears among the young people on the +green, in the garb of a fortune teller. Jenny runs into the house and +tells her father, who, particularly good-natured and hospitable at such +an hour, replies:-- + + "Gae bring him in; we'll hear what he can say, + Nane shall gae hungry by my house the day. [_Exit Jenny._ + But for his telling fortunes, troth I fear + He kens nae mair o' that than my grey mare. + + _Glaud._--Spae men![37] the truth o' a' their saws I doubt, + For greater lears never ran thereout. + + [_Jenny returns bringing in Sir William;--with them Patie._ + + _Symon._--Ye're welcome honest carle, here take a seat. + + _Sir W._--I gie ye thanks, gudeman, I'se be no blate.[38] + + _Glaud._--Come, t'ye[39] frien. How far came ye the day? + + _Sir W._--I pledge ye, neibour, e'en but little way. + + _Symon._--Ye're welcome here to stay a' night wi' me. + And tak sic bed and board as we can gie. + + _Sir W._--That's kind unsought.--Weel gin[40] ye hae a bairn. + That ye like weel, an wad his fortune learn, + I shall employ the farthest o' my skill, + To spae it faithfully, be't good or ill. + + _Symon_ (_pointing to Patie_).--Only that lad: alake! I hae nae mae + Either to mak me joyfu' now or wae. + + _Sir W._--Young man, let's see your hand; what gars[41] ye sneer? + + _Patie._--Because your skill's but little worth, I fear. + + _Sir W._--Ye cut before the point: but, Billy, bide, + I'll wager there's a mouse-mark on your side. + +[Footnote 37: Fortune-tellers.] + +[Footnote 38: Bashful.] + +[Footnote 39: Your health.] + +[Footnote 40: If.] + +[Footnote 41: Makes.] + +This being the case, all are astonished at the old man's knowledge, who +goes on to predict that Patie, one of these days, will be a rich laird. + + _Elspa._--Hear, ye gudeman, what think ye now? + + _Symon._--I dinna ken! Strange auld man, what art thou? + Fair fa[42] your heart, it's guid to bode o' wealth + Come, turn the timmer to laird Patie's health. + + (_Patie's health goes round._) + +[Footnote 42: Good befall.] + +Old Symon, by the request of the spaeman, goes out to meet him, and they +have much conversation together. At length-- + + "Sir William drops his masking beard, + Symon transported sees + The welcome knight, wi' fond regard, + An' grasps him round the knees." + +They converse concerning Patie, who is actually Sir William's son and +heir, and agree to make known his true position. This is accordingly +done, and produces great excitement among the parties. Patie is glad and +sorrowful at the same time, and Peggy sees nothing in it but +disappointment and grief. A gulf has intervened between her and Patie, +and she feels that she must give him up for ever. But Patie assures her +of his constant affection, and the "puir thing" absolutely "greets for +joy to hear his words sae kind." + +Next morning-- + + "While Peggy laces up her bosom fair + Wi' a blue snood, Jenny binds up her hair; + Glaud by his morning ingle, taks a beek,[43] + The rising sun shines motty[44] thro' the reek,[45] + A pipe his mouth, the lasses please his een, + An' now and then his joke must intervene." + +[Footnote 43: A glass of beer.] + +[Footnote 44: Mottled.] + +[Footnote 45: Smoke.] + +But all parties are sent for to Symon's house-- + + "To hear and help to redd[46] some odd debate + 'Tween Mause and Bauldy, 'bout some witchcraft spell, + At Symon's house: the knight sits judge himsell." + +[Footnote 46: Clear up, unravel.] + +All then are assembled-- + + "Sir William fills the twa armed chair, + While Symon, Roger, Glaud, and Mause, + Attend, and wi' loud laughter hear + Daft Bauldy bluntly plead his cause: + For now it's tell'd him that the taz[47] + Was handled by revengeful Madge, + Because he brak guid breeding's laws, + And wi' his nonsense raised their rage. + +[Footnote 47: _Birch_ or strap.] + +Bauldy, however, confesses his wrong, and adds-- + + "But I had best + Haud in my tongue, for yonder comes the _ghaist_[48] + An' the young bonny _witch_, whose rosy cheek + Sent me, without my wit, the de'il to seek." + + _Sir William_ (_looking at Peggy_). + --Whose daughter's she that wears the aurora gown, + With face so fair, and locks o' lovely brown? + How sparkling are her eyes? What's this I find, + The girl brings all my sister to my mind. + Such were the features once adorned a face, + Which death so soon deprived of sweetest grace. + Is this your daughter Glaud? + + _Glaud._--Sir, she's my niece, + An' yet she's not, but I shoud haud my peace. + + _Sir Wil._--This is a contradiction. What d' ye mean? + She is, and is not! pray thee, Glaud, explain. + + _Glaud._--Because I doubt, if I shou'd mak' appear, + What I hae kept a secret thirteen year-- + + _Mause._--You may reveal what I can fully clear. + + _Sir Wil._--Speak soon; I'm all impatience. + + _Patie._--Sae am I! + For much I hope, an' hardly yet ken why. + + _Glaud._--Then, since my master orders, I obey. + This _bonny foundling_, ae' clear morn o' May, + Close by the lea-side o' my door I found, + A' sweet an' clean an' carefully hapt[49] 'round, + In infant weeds, o' rich and gentle make. + What could they be, thought I, did thee forsake? + Wha, worse than brutes, cou'd leave exposed to air + Sae much o' innocence sae sweetly fair, + Sae helpless young? for she appeared to me + Only about twa towmands[50] auld to be. + I took her in my arms; the bairnie smiled, + Wi' sic a look, wad mak a savage mild. + I hid the story: she has pass'd sinsyne[51] + As a poor orphan, an' a niece o' mine: + Nor do I rue my care about the wean, + For she's weel worth the pains that I hae tane. + Ye see she's bonny; I can swear she's guid, + An' am right sure she's come o' gentle bluid, + O' wham I kenna.[52] Naething I ken mair, + Than what I to your honor now declare. + + _Sir Wil._--This tale seems strange! + + _Patie._--The tale delights my ear! + + _Sir Wil._--Command your joys, young man, till truth appear. + + _Mause._--That be my task. Now sir, bid a' be hush; + Peggy may smile; thou hast nae cause to blush. + Lang hae I wish'd to see this happy day, + That I may safely to the truth gi'e way; + That I may now Sir William Worthy name, + The best and nearest friend that she can claim: + He saw 't at first, an' wi' quick eye did trace + His sister's beauty in her daughter's face. + + _Sir Wil._--Old woman, do not rave,--prove what you say, + It's dangerous in affairs like this to play. + + _Patie._--What reason, Sir, can an auld woman have + To tell a lie when she's sae near her grave? + But how or why, it should be truth I grant + I every thing that looks like reason want. + + _Omnes._--The story's odd! we wish we heard it out. + + _Sir Wil._--Make haste, good woman, and resolve each doubt. + + [_Mause goes forward, leading Peggy to Sir William._] + + _Mause._--Sir, view me weel; has fifteen years sae plow'd + A wrinkled face that you hae often viewed, + That here I as an unknown stranger stand. + Wha nursed her mother that now hauds my hand? + Yet stronger proofs I'll gie, if you demand. + + _Sir Wil._--Ha! honest nurse, where were my eyes before? + I know thy faithfulness, and need no more; + Yet from the lab'rinth to lead out my mind, + Say, to expose her, who was so unkind? + + [_Sir William embraces Peggy and makes her sit by him._] + + Yes surely thou'rt my niece; truth must prevail, + But no more words till Mause relates the tale." + +[Footnote 48: Ghost.] + +[Footnote 49: Covered.] + +[Footnote 50: Two years.] + +[Footnote 51: Since then.] + +[Footnote 52: Know not.] + +Mause then relates how Peggy's life being threatened by a wicked aunt, +who wished to take possession of her estate, she herself had stolen her +away, in the dead of night, and travelled with her some fifty miles, and +left her at Glaud's door; that she had taken a cottage in the vicinity, +and had watched over the child ever since. All of course are delighted +with this discovery. The betrothment of Patie and Peggy is sanctioned by +Sir William; and even Bauldy + + "the bewitch'd, has quite forgot + Fell Madge's taz, and pawky Madge's plot," + +and exclaims: + + "I'm friends wi' Mause,--wi' very Madge I'm greed, + Although they skelpit[53] me when woodly flied:[54] + I'm now fu' blithe, an' frankly can forgive + To join and sing, 'Lang may Sir William live.'" + +[Footnote 53: Whipt.] + +[Footnote 54: Sorely frightened.] + +Sir William bestows upon "faithful Symon," and "kind Glaud," and upon +their heirs, "in endless fee," their "mailens," or farms, and takes old +Mause into his family, in peace + + "to close her days, + With naught to do but sing her Maker's praise." + +Glaud consents to give Jenny to Roger, who says; + + "I ne'er was guid o' speaking a' my days, + Or ever loo'd to make o'er great a fraise;[55] + But for my master, father, an' my wife, + I will employ the cares o' a' my life." + +[Footnote 55: Fuss or perhaps flattering speech.] + +To which, Sir William adds, summing up the whole: + + "My friends I'm satisfied you'll all behave, + Each in his station as I'd wish or crave. + Be ever virtuous, soon or late you'll find + Reward and satisfaction to your mind. + The maze o' life sometimes looks dark and wild; + And oft when hopes are highest, we're beguiled. + Oft when we stand on brinks of dark despair, + Some happy turn, with joy, dispels our care." + +Thus ends the "Gentle Shepherd," which with all its faults, possesses an +inimitable charm. In Scotland it is a sort of household poem. Every one, +young and old, reads it with delight. Indeed, it is probably the most +popular pastoral drama ever written. The common people, in the rural +districts of Scotland, know it by heart. The Bible, the Pilgrim's +Progress, Robinson Crusoe and "the Gentle Shepherd" are read by them a +thousand times more than any other book. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + Biographical Sketch of Allan Ramsay--Lasswade--Ramble along the + banks of the North Esk--Glenesk--A Character--Anecdote of Sir W. + Scott--Hawthornden--Drummond the Poet--His Character and + Genius--Sonnets--Chapel and Castle of Roslin--Barons of + Roslin--Ballad of Rosabelle--Hunting Match between Robert Bruce and + Sir William St. Clair. + + +Leaving Habbie's Howe, we will let Sandy drive us along the banks of the +river, through Auchindinny, Roslin and Hawthornden, to the pretty +village of Lasswade, where we will spend the night. Sandy can take the +carriage back to Edinburgh, and to-morrow we will ramble on foot through +the classic shades of Roslin and Hawthornden, visit Dalkeith and some +other places, and return to Edinburgh by the railway. In the meantime I +will give you some account of Allan Ramsay. + +Allan was born on the 15th of October, 1686, in Crawford Muir, +Lanarkshire, and died in the city of Edinburgh, in the year 1784. He was +at first a wigmaker, and afterwards a bookseller. In 1726 he kept a +little bookstore opposite Niddry's Wynd in the city of Edinburgh, whence +he removed to another, somewhat more commodious at the east end of the +Luckenbooths, having exchanged his old sign of Mercury for the heads of +Ben Jonson and Drummond of Hawthornden, whom he greatly admired. His +early education was limited. He attended the village school at +Leadhills, where, as he himself informs us, he acquired just learning +enough to read Horace "faintly in the original." Of a vigorous +constitution, and a cheerful temper, he spent his time happily in the +country, till his fifteenth year, though his lot seems to have been a +hard one. + + "Wading through glens wi' chorking feet, + Where neither plaid nor kilt could fend[56] the weet; + Yet blithely would he bang out o'er the brae, + And stend o'er burns as light as ony rae, + Hoping the morn[57] might prove a better day." + +[Footnote 56: Keep off.] + +[Footnote 57: To-morrow.] + +He went to Edinburgh, a poor country boy, and gradually made his way to +competence, and respectability. Whether he was particularly successful +as a wigmaker we are not informed; but he found the trade of bookseller +infinitely more congenial. Ensconced behind his counter, he could study, +write poetry, chat with his customers, and publish his own lucubrations. +His first principal poem was "Christ's Kirk on the Green," a +continuation of King James's poem of the same name, a rough but graphic +and humorous picture of rustic revelry. Its indelicacy is rather gross, +but it has all the vigor and humor of Hogarth's pictures. His other +poems, containing songs, fables, pastorals, complimentary verses (of +which he has a very large number,) stories and epistles are quite +numerous. They contain a large amount of trash, with here and there +some beautiful gems. He is mainly successful in Scottish verse. His +imitations of the English poets are rather poor. "_The Vision_" is one +of his ablest productions. The Genius of Scotland is painted "with a +touch of the old heroic Muse:" + + "Great daring darted frae his ee, + A braid sword shaggled[58] at his knee, + On his left arm a targe; + A shining spear filled his right hand, + Of stalwart make in bane and brawnd, + Of just proportions large; + A various rainbow colored plaid + Owre his left spaul[59] he threw, + Down his braid back, frae his white head + The silver wimplers[60] grew. + Amazed, I gazed + To see, led at command, + A stampant and rampant + Fierce lion in his hand." + +[Footnote 58: Dangled.] + +[Footnote 59: Shoulder.] + +[Footnote 60: Tassels or dangles.] + +But his most popular production is the "Gentle Shepherd" which appeared +in 1725--and was received with enthusiasm, not only in Scotland, but in +England and Ireland. It was much admired by Pope and Gay, the latter of +whom, when on a visit to Scotland, with the Duke and Duchess of +Queensberry, used to lounge in Allan Ramsay's shop, and obtain from him +explanations of the Scottish expressions that he might communicate them +to Pope. + +Allan uniformly had an eye to the "main chance." He sedulously courted +the great, and managed to accumulate a good many pennies. "In the +mingled spirit of prudence and poetry," he contrived + + "To theek[61] the out and line the inside + Of many a douce and witty pash,[62] + And baith ways gathered in the cash." + +[Footnote 61: Thatch.] + +[Footnote 62: Head.] + +He was foolish enough however to lay out his gains in the erection of a +theatre which was prohibited by the magistrates, as an injury to good +morals. So that Allan lost his cash and his pains together, and not only +so, but his good temper. This exposed him to much obloquy, in part +perhaps deserved. He was somewhat Jacobinical in his views, and hated +the Presbyterian clergy, who were afraid of him, as "a half papist," and +a some what licentious writer. Hence he lampooned them with great +severity, in consequence of which he was pretty well lampooned in his +turn. + +After all Allan was a true poet, and by no means a bad man. He was +honest, kind-hearted and cheerful. Some of his poetical strains indicate +much elevation and tenderness of spirit. + +In personal appearance he was somewhat peculiar. The following amusing +description he has given of himself: + + "Imprimis, then, for tallness, I + Am five foot and four inches high, + A black a viced[63] snod dapper fellow, + Nor lean, nor overlaid wi' tallow; + With phiz of a morocco cut, + Resembling a late man of wit, + Auld gabbet Spec[64] who was sae cunning, + To be a dummie ten years running. + Then for the fabric of my mind, + 'Tis mair to mirth than grief inclined: + I rather choose to laugh at folly + Than show dislike by melancholy; + Well judging a sour heavy face + Is not the truest mark of grace. + I hate a drunkard or a glutton, + Yet I'm nae fae[65] to wine and mutton: + Great tables ne'er engaged my wishes + When crowded with o'er many dishes; + A healthfu' stomach, sharply set, + Prefers a back-say,[66] piping het, + I never could imagine 't vicious + Of a fair fame to be ambitious; + Proud to be thought a comic poet, + And let a judge of numbers know it, + I court occasion thus to show it." + +[Footnote 63: Of a dark complexion.] + +[Footnote 64: Does this mean Spectator?] + +[Footnote 65: Foe.] + +[Footnote 66: Sirloin.] + +Allan never suffered his poetry to interfere with his business. Indeed +he abandoned verse altogether in the latter part of his life, rightly +judging that he might not equal his earlier productions, and feeling +moreover that other and more serious engagements demanded his attention. +The following epistle to Mr. Smibert, an eminent painter and intimate +friend, dated Edinburgh, 10th May, 1736, is highly characteristic; + + "MY DEAR OLD FRIEND:-- + + Your health and happiness are ever _ane_ addition to my + satisfaction. God make your life ever easy and pleasant. Half a + century of years have now row'd oe'r my brow, that begins now to + be _lyart_;[67] yet thanks to my Author, I eat, drink, and sleep + as sound as I did twenty years _syne_;[68] yes, I laugh heartily + too, and find as many subjects to employ that faculty upon as ever; + fools, fops and knaves, grow as rank as formerly, yet here and + there are to be found good and worthy men, who are _ane_ honor to + _human_ life. We have small hopes of seeing you again in our world; + then let us be virtuous and hope to meet in heaven. My good _auld_ + wife is still my bedfellow; my son Allan has been pursuing your + science since he was a dozen years _auld_--was with Mr. Hyffidg, at + London, for some time, about two years ago--has been since at home, + painting here like a Raphael--sets out for the seat of the beast, + beyond the Alps, in a month hence--to be away about two years. I'm + _sweer_[69] to part with him, but _canna_ stem the current which + flows from the advice of his patrons and his own inclination. I + have three daughters, one of seventeen, one of sixteen, and one of + twelve years of old, and no _rewayled dragle_[70] among them, all + fine girls. These six or seven years past I have not written a line + of poetry. I e'en gave over in good time, before the coolness of + fancy, that attends advanced years, should make me risk the + reputation I had acquired. + + Frae twenty-five to five and forty, + My muse was neither _sweer_[71] nor _dorty_,[72] + My Pegasus wad break her _tether_,[73] + E'en at the _shagging_ of a feather; + And _throw_[74] ideas scour like _drift_, + _Streaking_ his wings up to the lift; + Then when my soul was in a low[75] + That gart[76] my numbers safely row;[77] + But _eild_[78] and judgment _gin_[79] to say, + Let be your _sangs_ and learn to pray. + + I am, Sir, your friend and servant, + ALLAN RAMSAY." + +[Footnote 67: Wrinkled.] + +[Footnote 68: Since.] + +[Footnote 69: Loth.] + +[Footnote 70: Uncouth sloven.] + +[Footnote 71: Reluctant.] + +[Footnote 72: Proud or stiff.] + +[Footnote 73: Halter.] + +[Footnote 74: Through.] + +[Footnote 75: Blaze.] + +[Footnote 76: Caused.] + +[Footnote 77: Roll.] + +[Footnote 78: Age.] + +[Footnote 79: Begin.] + +In 1743 his circumstances were such as enabled him to build a small +octagon shaped house on the north side of the Castle Hill, which he +named Ramsay Lodge, but which some of his witty friends compared to a +goose pie. He told Lord Elibank one day of this ungracious comparison. +"What," said the witty peer, "a goose pie! In good faith, Allan, now that +I see _you_ in it, I think the house is not ill named." He lived in this +odd-looking edifice till the day of his death, enjoying the society of +his friends, and cracking his jokes with perhaps greater quietness, but +with as much gust and hilarity as ever. He was a man of genius, and has +exerted great influence on the lighter literature of Scotland. He was an +immense favorite with Burns, his equal in genius, his superior in depth +of feeling, in tenderness and beauty of expression. But Burns doubtless +owed something to the "wood notes wild," of his illustrious predecessor. +Both have done much to illustrate and beautify their native land. + +Next morning at early dawn we are rambling in and around the pretty +village of Lasswade, which lies so sweetly on the left bank of the North +Esk. The river runs in many charming sinuosities through the parish, now +passing over a smooth ledge of rocks, then "wimpling" over shining +pebbles, then gliding with a scarcely perceptible motion "among the +green braes," now wetting the pendant branches of the birch and broom, +anon sleeping in a deep pellucid pool, then leaping "o'er a linn," and +then gushing with a hollow murmur, among the loose gray rocks. Nothing +can be more beautiful and picturesque. Many pretty cottages and handsome +villas adorn the neighborhood. De Quincy, the celebrated English "opium +eater" lives here, and Sir Walter Scott at one time occupied a cottage +in the vicinity. The following is a happy description from his pen, of +the enchanting scenes through which the North and South Esk flow. It is +taken from his ballad of the "Grey Brother." + + Sweet are the paths--O passing sweet! + By Esk's fair streams that run, + O'er airy steep, through copsewood's deep, + Impervious to the sun. + + There the rapt poet's step may rove, + And yield the muse the day; + There beauty led by timid love, + May shun the tell-tale ray. + + From that fair dome[80] where suit is paid, + By blast of bugle free, + To Auchindinny's hazel glade, + And haunted Woodhouselee. + + Who knows not Melville's beechy groove, + And Roslin's rocky glen, + Dalkeith, which all the virtues love, + And classic Hawthornden. + +[Footnote 80: Pennycuick House, the romantic and elegant residence of +Sir George Clerk, Baronet. "It stands on a flat, in a curve of the +river, with a picturesque glen behind, carrying up the view to the ruins +of Branstane Castle, and the western extremity of the Pentlands--a a +little plain in front, gemmed with a beautiful artificial pond, and +overhung by ascents which are mantled all over with wood--and swells and +eminences on each side, dissevered by ravines, and moulded into many +curvatures of beauty. On the opposite side of the river, at the end of +an avenue at the top of a bank, stands an obelisk, raised by Sir James +Clerk, to the memory of his friend and frequent inmate, Allan Ramsay."] + +It is not surprising that multitudes from Edinburgh come to reside here +in the summer time; for what with the varied scenery of rock and river, +copsewood and fell, the pleasant associations of the present, and the +thrilling memories of "Auld lang syne," no region can be more attractive +and agreeable. + +Sauntering along, we approach Glenesk, so called from the deep and +charming glen, formed by the winding river. Yonder is an old man at work +in his garden, who looks quite patriarchal, and I dare say knows a good +deal of the neighborhood. Let us accost him. + +"Good morning, sir!" + +"Gude mornin' gentlemen!" + +"You seem to be quite early in your garden this morning." + +"Ou aye, we maun mak hay while the sun shines, ye ken, and this is a +graund time for planting." + +"You have lived in the neighborhood a considerable time, I presume." + +"A' my days." + +"Well, it's a beautiful country." + +"Ou aye, it's weel eneuch. My faither before me lived in that bit housie +out yonder amang the trees, and he used aften to say, gude auld man! +that the lines had fallen to us in pleasant places, and that we had a +goodly heritage. For my pairt, I like the country unco weel. The burn +there is verra pleasant, its sae caller[81] like, wimpling amang the +rocks and bushes. And what's mair to the pint, it has got a fouth[82] of +fine fish in 't, though thae new fangled mills are frightening them +awa." + +[Footnote 81: Fresh.] + +[Footnote 82: Abundance.] + +"Trout, I suppose." + +"Yes, sir, and fine anes too. Ah! mony's the day I hae paidlt in that +burn, when a wee bit callant, catching the trout amang the stanes, when +the water was low." + +"Did you know any thing of Sir Walter Scott? He used to live near +Lasswade, and I dare say often wandered this way to fish." + +"Ken him! That I did fu' weel. And an honest freendly man he was. He cam +up the burn every noo and then, sometimes wi' a fishing-rod, and +sometimes wi' a staff in his han. He and I got weel acquaint after a +time, for he was nane o' your upstarts, but an unco frank, freespoken +kind of a man. Not that he talked sae muckle himsel, but he was aye +askin about something or ither, and kept my tongue waggin' a' the time. +Ah yes, Sir Walter was a canny man. He knew the hail kintra side, and +used to spier a great many questions about the ways o' the auld folks. +One day he cam alang the burn side, wi' anither gentleman. I happened to +be working down there. His line got tangled in a stane, and he got me to +fetch it out. He then coost it into the deep pule below, making the flee +skim alang the top o' the water, as skeelfully as onything ye ever saw. +When up louped a muckle spotted trout, and in a moment dragged the line +to the other side, then spanked up the burn at an unco rate, running the +line aff the reel, which birred like a spinnin' wheel. Sir Walter +hobbled after it as weel as he could. He was lame, ye ken, but managed +to move pretty quick. The trout plunged and flounced over the shallow +water, got into another deep pule, and ran into the bank, in the hollow +of twa big stanes that were lying there. Now, cried Sir Walter, I have +you my boy; so he kept jerkin awa at him, and out he cam again, when Sir +Walter gave him a wallop, and laid him flat amang the gowans. 'Twas a +bonny sight, I tell you. The trout was nae less than a fit and a quarter +lang, as thick as my arm, and spotted all o'er wi' shining spots, like a +leopard. Sir Walter was unco pleased--rubbed his hans', and every now +and then broke into a smile, as he cracked some joke about the trout. +Hech! it was a guid sight for sair een--to see Sir Walter after the +trout, and specially to see the trout walloping amang the gowans." + +"But don't you think that it was rather cruel sport?" + +"Cruel! why man, the fish kens naething ava, and out o' its ain element, +it gets choked in a minute. And, for my pairt, I dinna see what fish is +guid for, if not to be catch'd and eaten, specially the big anes! My +gude auld faither used often to say to us, 'Boys, ye mauna be cruel to +the dumb beasts, and when ye gang a fishing, be sure to let the wee fish +gae.'" + +"Your father was a worthy man, I dare say." + +"That he was, I can assure you. He was respeckit by the hail kintra +side. When auld and feeble, he wud sit before the door, on a divot seat, +the hail simmer day, wi' a braid bonnet on his head, and a lang staff by +his side, reading the Bible, or maybe 'Pilgrim's Progress,' or takin' +wi' the neebors wha cam to see him." + +"Did he belong to the established kirk?" + +"Na, na, he was ane o' the auld Covenanters, and used to talk a deal +about Cameron and McMillen, as unco powerfu' preachers. He thocht the +present times were wonderfu' degenerate, that the solemn League and +Covenant o' Scotland was amaist forgotten, and that the people +now-a-days were a sort o' inferior race. But he was a gude man; unco +pleasant to look upon, and unco pleasant to hear, when he talked o' the +faithfulness o' Israel's God, and the comfort and blessedness of being +his children. When he deed, he seemed to fa' asleep. A smile was on his +pale face, and his han' lay upon his breast, as it were in token of +resignation to the will o' heaven. He lies buried in the auld +kirk-yard, o'er yonder, wi' the words on his head-stane at his ain +request, 'Blessed are the deed that dee in the Lord.'" + +"Are you too a Cameronian?" + +"Why no, to tell ye the honest truth. The auld Cameronians are amaist a' +gane; and I just gang o'er here to the free kirk, where, to my notion, +we hae as guid sound preachin as ye'll meet wi' in the hail kintra side. +I'm no sae gude a man as my faither; but I canna forget his counsels and +his prayers." + +"Have you any family, my friend?" + +"Ou aye. A bit callant, and twa strapping lasses, one of whom is +married." + +"Well, that's a comfort." + +"A great comfort, sir, in my auld days. Jeanie is weel married, and has +bairns o' her ain. Marion wad a been married, but she was kind a skary, +and so she stays at hame. The bit callant is no my ain, but a neebor's +son that we adopted frae pity, seeing his mither is puir, and his +faither was lost at sea." + +"And your wife, is she well?" + +"Well! Aye, that she is--in heaven! She's been gane these five +years--(here the tears started in the old man's eyes.) We maun a' dee. +(A brief pause.) But, as my gude auld faither used to say, 'The Lord +gave, and the Lord hath taken away, blessed be the name of the Lord.'" + +"Yes, my good old friend, the hope of a Christian, which you seem to +cherish, is a source of infinite comfort. It sweetens the cares of life, +and robs death of its sting. Good morning." + +"Gude mornin; and the Lord bless you!" + +Ascending the river a short distance, we come to Hawthornden, once the +property and residence of the celebrated poet and historian, William +Drummond, the friend of Shakspeare and Ben Jonson. The house, originally +constructed with reference to strength, surmounts the very edge of a +precipitous cliff, which rises above the river. Winding around it are +charming walks, among the green foliage, which fringes the summit and +sides of the rock, down to the very edge of the water. Wild tangled +bushes, flowering shrubs, birches and oak trees, are mingled in most +picturesque and delightful confusion; while the gray cliffs here and +there, peep out from their sylvan garniture as if sunning themselves in +the summer radiance. Below, the stream, impeded in its course by huge +ledges of rocks, hurries unseen, but distinctly heard, amid the woods; +further on, emerges into the light of day, and forms a broad clear pool, +on the banks of which you may see some industrious fisherman plying his +rod. + + "The spot is wild, the banks are steep, + With eglantine and hawthorn blossomed o'er, + Lychnis and daffodils, and hare-bells blue. + From lofty granite crags precipitous, + The oak with scanty footing topples o'er, + Tossing his limbs to heaven; and from the cleft, + Fringing the dark brown, natural battlements, + The hazel throws his silvery branches down: + There starting into view, a castled cliff, + Whose roof is lichen'd o'er, purple and green, + O'erhangs thy wandering stream, romantic Esk, + And rears its head among the ancient trees." + +Standing in front of it you see certain artificial caves, hollowed with +immense labor, out of the solid rock. These communicate with each other, +and contain a well of prodigious depth bored from the court-yard of the +mansion. The caves are reported by tradition to have been a stronghold +of the ancient Pictish kings, and three of them bear respectively the +name of 'the king's Gallery, the king's Bed-chamber and the king's +Guard-room.' They were doubtless hewn out, as places of refuge, during +the terrible wars between the English and the Picts, or the English and +the Scots. In the reign of David II, when the English had possession of +Edinburgh, they and the neighboring caves of Gorton afforded shelter to +the heroic Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalhousie and his adventurous band. + +Adjoining the house, and overlooking the stream, a kind of seat is cut +in the face of the rock, called 'Cypress Grove,' where Drummond is +reported to have sat, in the fine summer weather, and composed many of +his poems. The magnificent woods in the vicinity suggested to Peter +Pindar the caustic remark respecting Dr. Samuel Johnson, that he + + "Went to Hawthornden's fair scene by night, + Lest e'er a Scottish tree should wound the sight." + +Crossing the river at a suitable place, we will saunter towards Roslin +on the other side, and while doing so, will beguile the way by talking +of Drummond, whose genius haunts every nook and corner of the shady +dell. + +William Drummond was born in 1585 and died in 1649. His father, John +Drummond, was gentleman usher to King James. He was hence educated in +profound reverence for royalty and its prerogatives. Indeed his feelings +upon this subject were entirely slavish; and it is said that his strong +grief at the death of Charles the First hastened his death. + +He was well versed in classic literature, and enjoyed the advantages of +a refined and liberal education. Having studied civil law for four years +in France, he succeeded in 1611 to an independent estate, and took up +his residence in Hawthornden. Its cliffs, caves, and wooded dells were +in harmony with his genius, and he spent many happy years in this +beautiful retreat. His first publication was a volume of occasional +poems, of various merit, to which succeeded a moral treatise, in prose, +called "Cypress Grove," in allusion probably to the fairy nook on the +face of the rock where he meditated and wrote, and a second poetical +work entitled "Flowers of Zion." He also wrote the History of the Five +James's, a production of no great merit, in which he urges, to an +extravagant length, the doctrine of the absolute supremacy of kings. +"The Cypress Grove" contains reflections upon death, written in a solemn +and agreeable strain, and contains some fine passages. "This earth," +says he, "is as a table book, and men are the notes; the first are +washen out, that new may be written in. They who forewent us did leave +room for us; and should we grieve to do the same to those who should +come after us? Who, being suffered to see the exquisite rarities of an +antiquary's cabinet, is grieved that the curtain be drawn, and to give +place to new pilgrims? And when the Lord of the Universe hath shown us +the amazing wonders of his various frame, should we think it hard, when +he thinketh time, to dislodge? This is his unalterable and inevitable +decree; as we had no part of our will in our entrance into this life, we +should not presume to any in our leaving it; but soberly learn to will +that which he wills, whose very will giveth being to all that it wills." + +The death of a beautiful young lady, to whom he was betrothed, affected +him deeply; and he sought relief to his wounded feelings in foreign +travel. On returning, some years afterwards, he met a young lady by the +name of Logan, bearing a strong resemblance to the former object of his +affections; on account of which he solicited and obtained her hand in +marriage. + +Drummond was intimate with Drayton and Ben Jonson. The latter paid him a +visit at Hawthornden, and they had much free conversation together. +Drummond kept private notes of these conversations, which subsequently +saw the light, and were found to be somewhat injurious to Jonson's +memory. But Drummond himself had no hand in their publication. + +As a poet Drummond belonged to the school of Spenser, though far +inferior to the latter in strength of conception and splendor of +imagination. His poems are distinguished for their singular harmony and +sweetness of versification. They seem to partake of the character of the +quiet romantic scenery amid which they were composed. His "Tears on the +Death of Moeliades," (Prince Henry, son of James I.,) and his "River +Forth Feasting," have been much admired. His sonnets, however, are his +best productions. They flow with as much grace and beauty, (though not +perhaps with the same variety,) as the romantic river which murmurs past +his "wooded seat." His madrigals, complimentary verses, and other short +pieces, abound in foolish conceits, and what is worse, in coarse and +licentious language. But he was one of the best poets of the age, and +only inferior to two or three of his great contemporaries. + +The following sonnet--"To His Lute"--is very sweet. It was probably +written after the death of the lady to whom he was betrothed; + + My lute be as thou wert when thou didst grow, + With thy green mother, in some shady grove, + When immelodious winds but made thee move, + And birds their ramage[83] did on thee bestow. + Since that dear voice which did thy sounds approve, + Which wont in such harmonious strains to flow, + Is reft from earth to join the spheres above, + What art thou but a harbinger of woe? + Thy pleasing notes be pleasing notes no more, + But orphan wailings to the fainting ear, + Each stroke a sigh, each sound draws forth a tear; + For which be silent as in woods before; + Or if that any hand to touch thee deign, + Like widowed turtle still her loss complain. + +[Footnote 83: Warbling.] + +His sonnet "In Praise of a Solitary Life" was written, we can well +imagine, in his summer bower on the banks of the Esk. It is peculiarly +harmonious: + + Thrice happy he who by some shady grove, + Far from the clamorous world doth live his own, + Thou solitary, who is not alone, + But doth converse with that eternal love. + O how more sweet is bird's harmonious moan, + Or the hoarse sobbings of the widowed dove, + Than those smooth whisperings near a prince' throne, + Which good make doubtful, do the ill approve! + O how more sweet is zephyr's wholesome breath, + And sighs embalm'd, which new-born flowers unfold, + Than that applause vain honor doth bequeath. + How sweet are streams, to poison drank in gold! + The world is full of horror, troubles, slights: + Woods, harmless shades have only true delights. + +The following, "To a Nightingale," is still more beautiful: + + Sweet bird! that singst away the early hours + Of winters past or coming, void of care, + Well pleased with delights which present are, + Fair seasons, budding sprays, sweet-smelling flowers: + To rocks, to springs, to rills, from leafy bowers, + Thou thy Creator's goodness dost declare, + And what dear gifts on thee he did not spare, + A stain to human sense in sin that lowers. + What soul can be so sick as by thy songs + (Attired in sweetness) sweetly is not driven + Quite to forget earth's turmoils, spites and wrongs, + And lift a reverend eye and thought to heaven? + Sweet, artless songster! thou my mind dost raise + To airs of spheres--yes, and to angels' lays. + +But we have entered the vale of Roslin, and there, in its beauty, stands +the Chapel of Roslin, one of the most exquisite architectural ruins in +Scotland. It was founded in 1484, or even earlier than that, by the +Earl of Caithness and Orkney. The whole Chapel is profusely decorated +with the most delicate sculpture both within and without. The roof, the +capitals, key-stones and architraves, are all overlaid with sculpture, +representing foliage and flowers, grotesque figures, sacred history and +texts of Scripture. The fine fluted column called the "Apprentice's +Pillar," so named from a tradition which no one believes, and which +therefore we do not repeat, is exceedingly beautiful, being ornamented +with wreaths of foliage and flowers twining around it in spiral columns. +So perfect are these alto relievos, that the author of a pamphlet +describing them, says that he can liken them to nothing but Brussels +lace. + +How solemn a thing it is in this chequered light, to wander amid these +sounding aisles and ancient monuments! In the vaults beneath lie the +Barons of Roslin, all of whom, till the time of James the Seventh, were +buried without a coffin, in complete armor. This circumstance, and the +vulgar belief that on the night preceding the death of any of these +barons, the chapel appeared in flames, has been finely described by +Walter Scott, in his touching ballad of Rosabelle. + + O listen, listen, ladies gay! + No haughty feats of arms I tell; + Soft is the note, and sad the lay, + That mourns the lovely Rosabelle. + + "Moor, moor the barge, ye gallant crew! + And gentle ladye deign to stay! + Rest thee in castle Ravensheuch, + Nor tempt the stormy Firth to-day. + + "The blackening wave is edged with white, + To inch and rock the sea-mews fly; + The fishers have heard the water sprite, + Whose screams forebode that wreck is nigh. + + "Last night the gifted seer did view, + A wet shroud swathed round ladye gay! + Then stay thee, fair, in Ravensheuch; + Why cross the gloomy Firth to-day?" + + "'Tis not because Lord Lindesay's heir, + To-night at Roslin leads the ball, + But that my ladye mother there, + Sits lonely in her castle hall. + + "'Tis not because the ring they ride-- + And Lindesay at the ring rides well-- + But that my sire the wine will chide + If 'tis not filled by Rosabelle." + + O'er Roslin all that dreary night, + A wondrous blaze was seen to gleam, + 'Twas broader than the watchfire's light, + And redder than the bright moonbeam. + + It glared on Roslin's castled rock, + It ruddied all the copsewood glen, + 'Twas seen from Dryden's grove of oak, + And seen from cavern'd Hawthornden. + + Seem'd all on fire that chapel proud, + Where Roslin's chiefs uncoffined lie, + Each baron, for a sable shroud, + Sheathed in his iron panoply. + + Seem'd all on fire, within, around, + Deep sacristy and altar pale; + Shone every pillar, foliage bound, + And glimmer'd all the dead men's mail. + + Blazed battlement and pinnet high, + Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair,-- + So still they blaze, when fate is nigh + The lordly line of high St. Clair. + + There are twenty of Roslin's barons bold, + Lie buried within that proud chapelle; + Each one the holy vault doth hold-- + But the sea holds lovely Rosabelle. + + And each St. Clair was buried there, + With candle, with book, and with knell, + But the sea caves rung, and the wild winds sung, + The dirge of lovely Rosabelle. + +We now pass over a bridge of great height, spanning a deep cut in the +solid rock, and reach Roslin Castle, with its triple tier of vaults, +standing upon a peninsular rock overhanging the romantic glen of the +Esk. This castle was, for ages, the seat of the St. Clairs, or +Sinclairs, descended from William de Sancto Clare, the son of Waldernus +de Clare, who came to England with William the Conqueror, and fought at +the battle of Hastings. The enumeration of their titles, says Sir Walter +Scott, would take away the breath of a herald. Among others, they were +Princes of the Orcades, Dukes of Oldenburgh, Lord Admirals of the +Scottish Seas, Grand Justiciaries of the kingdom, Wardens of the border, +Earls of Caithness, titularies of more than fifty baronies, patrons and +Grand Masters of Masonry in Scotland, &c. &c. + +Of the grandeur and opulence of the family, some conception may be +derived from the following description, given in a manuscript in the +"Advocate's Library," of the state maintained by William St. Clare, +founder of the chapel.--"About that time (1440) the town of Roslin, +being next to Edinburgh and Haddington in East Lothian, became very +populous by the great concourse of all ranks and degrees of visitors +that resorted to this Prince, at his palace of the Castle of Roslin; for +he kept a great court, and was royally served at his own table, in +vessels of gold and silver, Lord Dirleton being his master of the +household, Lord Borthwick his cup-bearer, and Lord Fleming his carver, +&c. He had his halls and other apartments richly adorned with +embroidered hangings. He flourished in the reigns of James the First and +Second. His princess, Elizabeth Douglass, was served by seventy-five +gentlewomen, whereof fifty-three were daughters of noblemen, all clothed +in velvets and silks, with their chains of gold and other ornaments, and +was attended by two hundred riding gentlemen in all her journeys; and if +it happened to be dark when she went to Edinburgh, where her lodgings +were at the foot of Blackfriars' Wynd, eighty lighted torches were +carried before her." + +The old castle is almost entirely gone, and the present structure is a +comparatively modern one. It belongs to the Earl of Rosslyn, descended +from a collateral branch of the St. Clair family. + +It is interesting to think of the magnificent old barons who kept state +in the mouldering castles which everywhere adorn the Scottish landscape. +Some of them were noble specimens of humanity, but the greater +proportion of them were but splendid barbarians. They led a sort of rude +animal life, and were distinguished chiefly for their towering pride and +ungovernable passion. The following story of a hunting match between +King Robert Bruce and Sir William St. Clair, throws an interesting +light on the spirit of the age and the history of the St. Clair family. +"The king had been repeatedly baulked by a fleet white deer which he had +started in his hunt among the Pentland Hills; and having asked an +assembled body of his nobles whether any dogs in their possession could +seize the game that had escaped the royal hounds, Sir William St. Clair +promptly offered to pledge his head that two favorite dogs of his called +'Help and Hold,' would kill the deer before she crossed the March burn. +The king instantly accepted the knight's bold and reckless offer, and +promised himself to give the forest of Pentland Moor in guerdon of +success. A few slow hounds having been let loose to beat up the deer, +and the king having taken post on the best vantage-ground for commanding +a view of the chase, Sir William stationed himself in the fittest +position for slipping his dogs, and in the true style of a Romanist, who +asks a blessing upon a sin, and supposes the giver of the blessing to be +a creature, earnestly prayed to St. Katherine to give the life of the +deer to his dogs. Away now came the raised deer, and away in full chase +went Sir William on a fleet-footed steed; and hind and hunter arrived +neck and neck at the critical March burn. Sir William threw himself in a +desperate fling from his horse into the stream; 'Hold,' just at this +crisis of fate, stopped the deer in the brook, and 'Help' the next +instant came up, drove back the chase, and killed her on the winning +side of the stream. The king, who had witnessed the nicely poised +result, came speedily down from his vantage-ground, embraced Sir +William, and granted him, in free forestry, the lands of Logan House, +Kirkton, and Carncraig. Sir William, in gratitude for the fancied +interference of St. Katherine in his favor, built the chapel of St. +Katherine in the Hopes. The tomb of the wildly adventurous knight who +was so canine in his nature as to reckon his life not too high a pledge +for the fleetness and fierceness of his dogs, is still to be seen in +Roslin chapel; and it very properly represents the sculpture of his +armed person to be attended by a greyhound, as a joint claimant of the +honor and fame of his exploits." + +In the neighboring moor of Roslin is the scene of a great battle, in +1302, in which the Scottish army gained, in one day, three successive +victories, a circumstance touchingly referred to by _Delta_, Dr. Moir of +Musselburgh, author of 'Casa Wappy,' 'Wee Willie,' and many other +exquisite contributions to Blackwood's Magazine. + + "Three triumphs in a day! + Three hosts subdued by one! + Three armies scattered like the spray, + Beneath one summer sun + Who pausing 'mid this solitude + Of rocky streams and leafy trees,-- + Who, gazing o'er this quiet wood, + Would ever dream of these? + Or have a thought that ought intrude + Save birds and humming bees?" + +How delightful, as we wander amid these hoary ruins and leafy bowers, so +still and beautiful under the rich light of a summer noon, to think that +the old stormy times of feudal warfare have passed away forever, and +that peace, with balmy wing, is brooding over this and other Christian +lands. + +But in this everyday life, the wants of nature must be met. Let us hie +then to the village inn, just beyond the chapel. With our keen +appetites, a snug dinner there will relish better than the most splendid +banquet of the St. Clairs. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + Ramble through the Fields--Parish Schools--Recollections of Dominie + Meuross--The South Esk--Borthwick and Crichtoun Castles--Newbattle + Abbey--Dalkeith--Residence of the Duke of Buccleugh--"Scotland's + Skaith," by Hector Macneil--His Character and Writings--Extracts + from the "History of Will and Jean." + + +Recrossing the North Esk, we ramble through the country in a +north-easterly direction, passing through highly cultivated farms, with +large comfortable homesteads. The fields everywhere are filled with +laborers, hoeing, ploughing, and weeding, most of them cheerful as +larks, and making the woods ring with 'whistle and song.' That plain but +substantial edifice, under the shadow of the great oak tree hard by the +old church, is a parish school-house, in which perhaps are gathered some +fifty or sixty boys and girls, from all ranks of society, plying their +mental tasks, under the supervision of an intelligent schoolmaster. +Every morning in that school-house the Word of God is reverently read, +and earnest prayer offered, exerting upon all minds a healthful moral +influence, and producing impressions of a religious kind, which may last +forever. Any boy may be fitted for college, or for commercial pursuits, +in such a school, and the expense to the parent will be next to nothing. +What then must be the amount of good accomplished by the combined +influence of all the parish schools in Scotland, equally endowed, and +supplied with adequate teachers? Popular education has made great +advances in Scotland within a few years. The greatest zeal for learning +exists among the people, and they require no compulsive acts, as in +Germany, to induce them to send their children to school. Not to be able +to read and write is regarded, in Scotland, as a great disgrace; and +hence the poorest people are equally ready with the rich to avail +themselves of the benefits of instruction. Good teachers are uniformly +secured, because they receive an ample compensation, and none but +well-educated and truly moral men would be accepted. In this respect +their situation is greatly superior to that of parish schoolmasters in +Germany or in the United States. On this subject, Kohl, the German +traveller, mentions an amusing conversation which he had with the parish +schoolmaster at Muthil. Having stated to the latter that the situation +of Scottish teachers was far superior to that of teachers in his +country, he inquired what was the average pay of schoolmasters there. + +"It varies a good deal," was the reply of Kohl. "Some have a hundred, +some a hundred and fifty, but many no more than fifty dollars." + +"How many pounds go to a dollar?" asked he. + +"Seven dollars go to a pound." + +"What!" he exclaimed, springing up from his chair, "do you mean to tell +me that they pay a schoolmaster with _seven pounds_ a year?" + +"Even so," was the reply, "seven pounds; but how much then do they get +with you?" + +"I know no one who has less than from forty to fifty pounds in all +Scotland; but the average is seventy or eighty pounds; and many go as +high as a hundred and fifty pounds." + +"What!" cried Kohl, springing up in his turn, "a hundred and fifty +pounds! that makes one thousand and fifty dollars. A _baron_ would be +satisfied in Germany with such a revenue as that; and do you mean to say +that there are schoolmasters who grumble at it?" + +"Yes," said he; "but recollect how dear things are with us. Sugar costs +eighteenpence a pound; coffee two shillings; chocolate is still dearer, +and tea not much cheaper. And then how dear are good beef, and pork, and +plums, and puddings, and everything else!" + +"I could not deny this," adds Kohl; "but I thought that our poor +schoolmasters were content if they had but bread." + +In former times the parish schoolmasters did not receive so much as they +now do; but then they were clerks of the parish, frequently _precentors_ +in the church, and received a multitude of little perquisites. Their +support has been made quite ample, having an average salary of a hundred +pounds, with a free house. + +But the sight of that school-house brings back the days of "lang syne." +Well do I remember the old parish school--a long thatched building, at +the "Kirk of Shotts," where I received my preparation for college, +under the free and easy, but most efficient, administration of 'Dominie +Meuross,' famed through all the country for his great classical +attainments, his facetious disposition, his kind-heartedness, and his +love of the pure 'Glenlivet.' Those were not the days of temperance +societies, and the Dominie had so much to do with christenings and +weddings, parish difficulties, "roups" and law-suits, that he was +greatly tempted by the bottle. But he was a worthy man, and an +enthusiastic teacher, especially of the classics. Teaching A, B, C, was +rather a dull business to the Dominie; but oh, how _merrily_ he would +construe the Odes of Horace, what jokes he would crack over our lessons, +and what effulgent light he would cast upon the classic page! Yet +Dominie Meuross was a dignified man--no one more so. The boys, indeed, +enjoyed considerable latitude, especially at that end of the school +opposite the one in which the Dominie sat, and many facetious tricks +were played upon the duller boys, the "sumphs," as we used to call them. +But the Dominie had only to pull down his glasses from his forehead, +where they were usually perched, and direct a keen glance to "the other +end," instantly to bring us all to perfect order. Dear old man! he has +long ago "gone to the yird," but his memory is green as the grass which +waves upon his grave. + +The school and the church, the light of learning, and the light of +religion, form the glory of Scotland. These have twined around her +rustic brow a wreath of fadeless glory. These have given her stability +and worth, beauty and renown. + +But we have reached Dalhousie Castle, with its charming and romantic +grounds, situated on a branch of the South Esk, a stream similar to the +North Esk, and running in the same direction. These streams, after +passing through scenery the most picturesque and beautiful, and watering +a hundred spots consecrated by song and story, as if by a mutual +attraction, unite a little above Dalkeith, and fall near the old town of +Musselburgh into the Firth of Forth. Behind us, at the distance of a few +miles, are the celebrated ruins of Borthwick and Crichtoun castles, the +one on a branch of the South Esk, the other somewhat to the right, in +the vale of Tyne. It was into Borthwick Castle that Queen Mary retired +after the death of Darnley, and her unhappy marriage with Bothwell, and +from which she was obliged, a few days afterwards, to flee to Dunbar in +the guise of a page. Crichtoun Castle is beautifully described by Sir +Walter Scott, in Marmion, and as we cannot visit this interesting ruin, +take his description of it as the best substitute. + + "That castle rises on a steep + Of the green vale of Tyne; + And far beneath, where slow they creep + From pool to eddy, dark and deep, + Where alders moist, and willows weep, + You hear her streams repine. + The towers in different ages rose; + Their various architecture shows + The builders' various hands; + A mighty mass, that could oppose, + When deadliest hatred fired its foes, + The vengeful Douglas' bands. + + "Crichtoun! though now thy miry court + But pens the lazy steer and sheep, + Thy turrets rude and tottered Keep, + Have been the minstrel's loved resort. + Oft have I traced within thy fort, + Of mouldering shields the mystic sense, + Scutcheons of honor or pretence, + Quartered in old armorial sort, + Remains of rude magnificence. + Nor wholly yet hath time defaced + Thy lordly gallery fair; + Nor yet the stony cord unbraced, + Whose twisted knots with roses laced, + Adorn thy ruined stair. + Still rises unimpaired below, + The court-yard's graceful portico: + Above its cornice, row and row, + Of fair hewn facets richly show, + Their pointed diamond form, + Though there but houseless cattle go, + To shield them from the storm. + And shuddering still may we explore, + Where oft whilom were captives pent, + The darkness of thy Massy More;[84] + Or from thy grass-grown battlement. + May trace, in undulating line, + The sluggish mazes of the Tyne." + +[Footnote 84: The prison vault.] + +Proceeding along the stream, we pass Cockpen, reminding us of the Laird +of Cockpen and his amusing courtship, when + + "Dumb-founder'd was he, + But nae word did he gae; + He mounted his mare, + And he rade cannilie. + + But aften he thought, + As he gaed through the glen, + She's a fule to refuse + The Laird o' Cockpen." + +We linger a few minutes by Newbattle Abbey, founded by David I., for a +community of Cistercian monks, brought hither from Melrose, but now the +residence of the Marquis of Lothian; and soon after reach the old "burgh +town" of Dalkeith, most delightfully situated between the two Esks, and +reminding us forcibly of "Mansie Waugh," the _pawkie tailor_ of +Dalkeith, whose amusing history we read in our boyhood. Dalkeith is a +considerable place, and has many elegant residences. In its immediate +vicinity is Dalkeith Palace, seat of the Duke of Buccleugh, standing on +an overhanging bank of the North Esk. Here too, in earlier times, lived +the Grahams, and the Douglases; and into this strong retreat, then +called the "Lion's den," retired the celebrated Regent Morton, who was +subsequently beheaded. We might enter the house, as this favor is often +granted to strangers, but we will not now; though it boasts the +possession of some fine old paintings, and some exquisite pieces of +furniture. But the grounds around it are infinitely more attractive, +adorned, as they are, with magnificent trees and shrubbery, and the +serpentine windings of the two Esks, whose waters unite in the park, a +little distance below the house. How placidly the stream glides through +the verdant meadows, and mirrors the green foliage of the overhanging +trees, or the branching horns of some deer, bent to drink its clear +waters! How softly and delicately the pencil rays of green and yellow +light glimmer through those shady retreats to the right. See the +startled deer bounding through the woods! How softly and lovingly sleeps +the sunshine on that wide pool at the bottom of the green slope, adorned +with flowers and honeysuckles! And see, through that shady vista the +open sky in the distance, "so darkly, deeply, beautifully blue." The +birds too, mavis, lintie, and bulfinch, are caroling among the trees, as +if their little hearts were filled with boundless joy. + +The cottage of "Jeanie Gairlace," supposed to be conferred upon her by +the Duchess of Buccleugh, is placed by Macneil, the author of +"Scotland's Skaith," in this beautiful vicinity. As we have yet to wait +some time for the rail cars that are to take us to Edinburgh, let us sit +down on this rustic seat, and I will give you some account of Macneil, +and his touching poem of "Will and Jean." + +Hector Macneil was born in 1746, and died in 1818. He was brought up to +mercantile pursuits, but did not succeed in business. He cultivated in +secret his passion for the muses, and published at intervals several +poetical effusions, among which were "The Harp, a Legendary Poem,"--"The +Links of the Forth, or a Parting Peep at the Carse of Sterling," and +"Scotland's Skaith, or the History of Will and Jean," his most natural +and successful production. Though not successful in lyrical effusions, +or in song writing, he is the author, we believe, of that exquisite +ballad, "Bonny Wee Mary o' Castlecary." He also wrote some prose tales, +in which he laments the effects of modern changes and improvements. In +the latter years of his life, he resided in comparative comfort, at +Edinburgh, enjoying the congenial society of its refined and literary +circles. + +"Scotland's Skaith (curse) or the History of Will and Jean," is intended +to depict the ruinous effects of intemperance, and the possibility of +reform, with the happiness thence resulting. A happy couple, in humble +life are gradually drawn into the vortex of intemperance, and at last +are reduced to the deepest extremities. The husband enlists as a +soldier, and the wife is compelled, with her children, to beg her bread. +In the commencement of the poem Willie is represented as passing a +rustic alehouse, whose attractions prove too much for him. The situation +of the alehouse, and the commencement of Willie's career as a drunkard, +are admirably described. The rhythm of the poem is peculiarly harmonious +and lively. + + In a howm[85] whose bonnie burnie, + Whimpering rowed its crystal flood, + Near the road where travellers turn aye, + Neat and bield[86] a cot house stood. + + White the wa's, wi' roof new theckit,[87] + Window broads[88] just painted red; + Lown[89] 'mang trees and braes it reekit,[90] + Hafflins[91] seen and hafflins hid. + + Up the gavel[92] end thick spreading, + Crap the clasping ivy green, + Back owre firs the high craigs cleadin,[93] + Raised around a cosey screen. + + Down below a flowery meadow; + Joined the burnies rambling line, + Here it was that Howe the widow + That same day set up her sign. + + Brattling[94] down the brae, and near its + Bottom, Will first marvelling sees + 'Porter, ale, and British spirits,' + Painted bright between twa trees. + + 'Godsake Tam! here's walth for drinking! + Wha can this new-comer be?' + 'Hout,' quo Tam, 'there's drouth in thinking-- + Let's in Will, and syne[95] we'll see.' + +[Footnote 85: Hollow, or glen.] + +[Footnote 86: Sheltered.] + +[Footnote 87: Thatched.] + +[Footnote 88: Boards.] + +[Footnote 89: Serene and lonely.] + +[Footnote 90: Smoked.] + +[Footnote 91: Half.] + +[Footnote 92: Gable.] + +[Footnote 93: Clothing.] + +[Footnote 94: Rattling, or running.] + +[Footnote 95: Then.] + +The two thoughtless friends have "a jolly meeting," and do not break up +till "'tween twa and three" next morning. A weekly club is set up at the +alehouse, a newspaper is procured, and things move on bravely. Willie +becomes a "pot-house politician," and a hard drinker, the consequence of +which is that he speedily goes to ruin. His wife also, to drown her +sorrows, takes to drinking. The contrast between their past and present +condition is touchingly described by the poet. + + Wha was ance like Willie Gairlace? + Wha in neeboring town or farm? + Beauty's bloom shone in his fair face, + Deadly strength was in his arm. + + When he first saw Jeanie Miller, + Wha wi' Jeanie could compare? + Thousands had mair braws and siller.[96] + But war ony half so fair? + + See them now! how chang'd wi' drinking! + A' their youthfu' beauty gane! + Davered,[97] doited,[98] dazed[99] and blinking-- + Worn to perfect skin and bane. + + In the cauld month o' November, + (Claise,[100] and cash, and credit out,) + Cowering o'er a dying ember, + Wi' ilk face as white's a clout.[101] + + Bond and bill, and debts a' stoppit, + Ilka sheaf selt[102] on the bent;[103] + Cattle, beds, and blankets roupit,[104] + Now to pay the laird his rent. + + No anither night to lodge here-- + No a friend their cause to plead! + He's ta'en[105] on to be a sodger, + She wi' weans[106] to beg her bread! + +[Footnote 96: Fine clothing and money.] + +[Footnote 97: Bewildered.] + +[Footnote 98: Foolish.] + +[Footnote 99: Stupid.] + +[Footnote 100: Clothes.] + +[Footnote 101: Cloth.] + +[Footnote 102: Sold.] + +[Footnote 103: Stubble field.] + +[Footnote 104: Sold at auction.] + +[Footnote 105: Engaged.] + +[Footnote 106: Children.] + +Fortunately, Jeanie attracts the attention of the Duchess of Buccleugh, +and obtains from her a pretty cottage, rent free, and such aid and +protection as her circumstances demand. Willie loses a leg in battle, +and returns a changed man, with a pension from government. Finding his +wife and family, he is received to their embrace. The soldier's return, +and the situation of the cottage are beautifully depicted. + + Sometimes briskly, sometimes flaggin', + Sometimes helpit, Will gat forth; + On a cart or in a wagon, + Hirplin[107] aye towards the north. + + Tired ae e'ening, stepping hooly,[108] + Pondering on his thraward[109] fate, + In the bonny month o' July, + Willie, heedless, tent[110] his gate.[111] + + Saft the southland breeze was blowing, + Sweetly sughed[112] the green oak wood; + Loud the din o' streams fast fa'ing, + Strack the ear with thundering thud. + + Ewes and lambs on braes ran bleating; + Linties chirped on ilka tree; + Frae the west the sun near setting, + Flamed on Roslin's towers sae hie.[113] + + Roslin's towers and braes sae bonny! + Craigs and water, woods and glen! + Roslin's banks unpeered by ony, + Save the Muses' Hawthornden! + + Ilka sound and charm delighting, + Will (though hardly fit to gang,)[114] + Wandered on through scenes inviting, + Listening to the mavis' sang. + + Faint at length, the day fast closing, + On a fragrant strawberry steep, + Esk's sweet dream to rest composing, + Wearied nature drapt asleep. + + 'Soldier, rise!--the dews o' e'ening, + Gathering fa' wi' deadly skaith!-- + Wounded soldier! if complaining, + Sleep na here, and catch your death.' + +[Footnote 107: Limping.] + +[Footnote 108: Carefully.] + +[Footnote 109: Untoward.] + +[Footnote 110: Lost.] + +[Footnote 111: Way.] + +[Footnote 112: Sighed.] + +[Footnote 113: High.] + +[Footnote 114: Walk.] + +Accepting an invitation to take shelter in a neighboring cottage, +slowfully and painfully he followed his guide. + + Silent stept he on, poor fellow! + Listening to his guide before, + O'er green knowe, and flowery hollow, + Till they reached the cot-house door. + + Laigh[115] it was, yet sweet and humble: + Decked wi' honeysuckle round; + Clear below Esk's waters rumble, + Deep glens murmuring back the sound. + + Melville's towers sae white and stately, + Dim by gloaming glint[116] to view; + Through Lasswade's dark woods keek[117] sweetly, + Skies sae red and lift sae blue. + + Entering now in transport mingle, + Mother fond, and happy wean,[118] + Smiling round a canty[119] ingle, + Bleezing on a clean hearth-stane. + + 'Soldier, welcome! Come, be cheery! + Here ye'se[120] rest, and tak' your bed-- + Faint, waes me! ye seem and weary, + Pale's your cheek, sae lately red!' + + 'Changed I am,' sighed Willie till[121] her; + 'Changed nae doubt, as changed[122] can be; + Yet, alas! does Jeanie Miller + Naught o' Willie Gairlace see?' + + Hae ye mark'd the dews o' morning, + Glittering in the sunny ray, + Quickly fa' when, without warning, + Rough blasts came and shook the spray? + + Hae ye seen the bird fast fleeing, + Drap when pierced by death mair fleet? + Then see Jean, wi' color deeing,[123] + Senseless drap at Willie's feet. + + After three lang years' affliction, + A' their waes now hush'd to rest, + Jean ance mair, in fond affection, + Clasps her Willie to her breast. + +[Footnote 115: Low.] + +[Footnote 116: Gleam.] + +[Footnote 117: Peep.] + +[Footnote 118: Child.] + +[Footnote 119: Merry.] + +[Footnote 120: You shall.] + +[Footnote 121: To.] + +[Footnote 122: As much as possible.] + +[Footnote 123: Dying.] + +But hark! the first bell rings for the cars; so let us be off, and get +our places. The sun has slipped down behind the trees yonder, and it +will be gloaming, if not ''tween and supper time,' before we get to +Edinburgh. + +All is right, and off we go, whirring through the quiet and beautiful +scenery of these highly cultivated regions. We pass through "Samson's +ribs," that is, the granite rocks of Duddingston, by means of a tunnel, +glide along the base of Arthur's Seat, on whose summit linger the last +rays of evening; and land at the upper end of the city, well prepared to +relish a Scottish supper of substantial edibles, and after that, "tired +nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep." + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + City of Glasgow--Spirit of the place--Trade and Manufactures--The + Broomielaw--Steam--George's Square--Monuments to Sir Walter Scott, + Sir John Moore, and James Watt--Sketch of the Life of Watt--Glasgow + University--Reminiscences--Brougham--Sir D. K. Sandford--Professor + Nichol and others--High Kirk, or Glasgow Cathedral--Martyrdom of + Jerome Russel and John Kennedy. + + +Taking the steam-cars from Edinburgh, we arrive at Glasgow, a distance +of forty-four miles, in a couple of hours. As Edinburgh is the +representative of Scottish literature and refinement, Glasgow is the +representative of its commerce and manufactures. It is an immense city, +and contains a prodigious number of inhabitants. At the period of the +Union it had a population of only twelve thousand: since which time it +has doubled this number twelve or thirteen times, and now contains +nearly three hundred thousand inhabitants. It owes this unprecedented +increase to its trade, domestic and foreign, which is almost +unparalleled in its extent. There is probably not a single inland town +in Great Britain, with the exception of London, which can show such a +shipping list. + +Glasgow has ever been distinguished for its mechanical ingenuity, its +industry and enterprise. Its situation doubtless is highly favorable, +but without an intelligent, ingenious and active population, it could +never have reached such a height of prosperity. + +But it is not our intention to visit this commercial city as tourists. +There are enough such to describe her agreeable situation, and handsome +public edifices, her long and elegant streets, her beautiful "green," +and magnificent river. At present we shall not fatigue ourselves with +visiting the Royal Exchange, the Royal Bank, the Tontine and the +Assembly Rooms. Neither shall we trouble our readers to go with us +through Queen street, St. Vincent street, Greenhill Place, or Woodside +Crescent. + +It might be worth while however, to look into some of those immense +factories; from which rise innumerable huge chimnies, some of which +overtop the steeples and towers of the churches, and reach far up into +the heavens.[124] Thousands and thousands of spindles and power looms, +with thousands and thousands of human hands and heads are moving there +from morn to night, and from night to morn. What masses of complicated +and beautiful machinery! What prodigious steam-engines, great hearts of +power in the centres of little worlds, giving life energy and motion to +the whole. Here is a single warehouse, as it is called, for the sale of +manufactured goods, containing no less than two hundred clerks. What +piles of silks and shawls, cottons and calicoes! The productions of +Glasgow reach every part of the world. You will find them in India, +China, and the United States, in the wilds of Africa and the jungles of +Burmah, amid the snows of Labrador, and the savannahs of Georgia. + +[Footnote 124: One of these chimnies is said to be over 400 feet high.] + +But let us go down to the Broomielaw, and take a look at the river +Clyde. That mile of masts, and those immense steamers, plying up and +down the river, connect Glasgow with every part of the British Empire +and the world. + +What grand agency has accomplished all this? Steam!--steam, under the +guidance and control of genius and enterprise. The extended prosperity +of Glasgow commenced with the inventions of Watt, the greatest +mechanical genius of the age, and the first man that constructed a +steam-engine of much practical use. Steam has raised all those huge +factories which we have been admiring, and keeps their innumerable +wheels and pistons, spindles and power looms in motion. Steam it is +which brings untold masses of coal and iron from the bowels of the +earth, and converts them into machinery and motive power. Yonder it +comes, rolling and dashing, in a long train of cars and carriages filled +with the produce and population of the land. Here it gives life and +energy to a cotton mill with a thousand looms! There it casts off, from +day to day, the myriads of printed sheets which spread intelligence +through the country. All around us it moves the cranks and pullies, +ropes and wires, wheels and tools, which work such wonders in beating +and grinding, cutting and carving, polishing and dyeing. Steam has added +thousands, nay millions to the annual income of Glasgow. It has +augmented the resources of Great Britain to such an extent that it +saves seventy millions of dollars annually in the matter of motive +power alone! No pen can describe the additions which it has made in +other parts of the world to their manufactures and commerce. It has +brought all nations into more intimate relations, and is yet destined, +in many respects, to revolutionize the world. + +Let us go then to George's Square, near the centre of the city, and look +at Chantrey's monument of the man who has done so much to bring about +such a change. The Square contains also a fine monument of Sir Walter +Scott, in the form of a fluted Doric column, about eighty feet high, +surmounted by a colossal statue of "the great magician of the north." He +is represented standing in an easy attitude, with a shepherd's plaid +thrown half around his body. The likeness is said to be remarkably good. +It has that expression of shrewdness, honesty and good nature for which +he was distinguished, but none of that ideal elevation which graces the +countenances of Schiller, Goethe and Shakspeare. Immediately in front of +this monument, is a beautiful pedestrian statue in bronze, by Flaxman, +of Sir John Moore, the subject of Wolfe's exquisite lyric,-- + + "Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note, + As his corpse to the ramparts we hurried, + Not a soldier discharged his farewell shot, + O'er the grave where our hero we buried." + +Sir John Moore was a citizen of Glasgow, and his townsmen have erected +this statue as expressive of their veneration for his memory. To the +right of this monument, in the south-west angle of the square, you see +in bronze, and of colossal magnitude, the noble figure of James Watt. He +is represented in a sitting posture on a circular pedestal of Aberdeen +granite. It is considered one of the happiest productions of the +distinguished Chantrey. The fine meditative features of the great +inventor are strikingly developed. Watt was born in Greenock, on the +19th of January, 1736, but conducted his experiments chiefly in Glasgow. +He came thither in 1757, first as a mathematical instrument maker to the +college, and subsequently as an engineer. In early life he gave +indications of his peculiar genius, by various little mechanical +contrivances. At the age of six years, he was occasionally found +stretched on the floor, delineating with chalk the lines of a +geometrical problem. At other times he greatly obliged his young +companions by making and repairing their toys; and before he had reached +his seventeenth year he had amused them with the wonders of an +electrical machine of his own construction. He had also instructed +himself by making experiments on the steam of a tea-kettle. He +subsequently stored his mind with the wonders of physics, chemistry and +medicine. + +In the University of Glasgow, Watt was employed to fit up the +instruments of the Macfarlane Observatory, which gave him an opportunity +of becoming acquainted with Adam Smith, Joseph Black, and Robert Simson, +names immortal in the scientific annals of Scotland. Here also he formed +an intimacy with John Robinson, then a student at college, and +subsequently the celebrated Dr. Robinson, who first called the attention +of Watt to the subject of steam engines, and threw out the idea of +applying them to steam carriages and other purposes. + +The steam-engine had existed before this time, but it was extremely +imperfect, and, moreover, of no great practical use. Hence Mr. Watt was +not, properly speaking, the inventor but the improver of the +steam-engine. Still his improvement was equal to an invention of the +highest order. It made the instrument _available_ for the highest +practical purposes. "He found the crazy machines of Savery and Newcomen +laboring and creaking at our mine heads, and occupying the same rank as +prime movers with the wind-mill and the water-wheel; and by a succession +of _inventions_ and _discoveries_, deduced from the most profound +chemical knowledge, and applied by the most exquisite mechanical skill, +he brought the steam-engine to such a degree of perfection as to stamp +it the most precious gift which man ever bequeathed to his race."[125] + +[Footnote 125: Edinburgh Review.] + +Watt had "a sore fight of existence," at least in the early part of his +career, and he came near being deprived of the emolument which was his +just due as a benefactor of his race. But he eventually triumphed over +all opposition, retired from business, and continued to reside during +the rest of his life on his estate at Heathfield Soho. He was +exceedingly happy in his domestic relations, though called, in 1804, to +suffer a painful bereavement in the loss of his youngest son Gregory, +who had given high promise of literary and scientific eminence. In 1808 +he was elected a corresponding member of the Institute of France; and in +1814, he was nominated by the Academy of Sciences as one of its _eight_ +foreign correspondents. In 1819 his health suffered a rapid decline, and +he himself felt that this was his last illness. "Resigned, himself, he +endeavored to make others resigned. He pointed out to his son the topics +of consolation which should occupy his mind; and expressing his sincere +gratitude to Providence for the length of days he had enjoyed, for his +exemption from most of the infirmities of age, and for the serenity and +cheerfulness which marked the close of his life; he expired at +Heathfield on the 25th of August, 1819." He was interred in the parish +church of Handsworth; and over his tomb his son erected an elegant +Gothic chapel, containing a beautiful marble bust by Chantrey. Another +bust by the same artist has been placed in one of the halls of Glasgow +College. A colossal statue of Carrara marble, procured at great expense +by public subscription, graces the recesses of Westminster Abbey. + +The most useful memorial of Watt, however, exists in Greenock, in the +form of a large and handsome building for a public library, erected by +his son, in which the citizens have caused to be placed a handsome +marble statue, with an inscription from the pen of Lord Jeffrey. Lord +Brougham concluded an eloquent speech on the merits of Mr. Watt, in the +following striking terms:--"If in old times the temples of false gods +were appropriately filled with the images of men who had carried +devastation over the face of the earth, surely our temples cannot be +more worthily adorned with the likenesses of those whose triumphs have +been splendid indeed, but unattended by sorrow to any--who have achieved +victories, not for one country only, but to enlarge the power and +increase the happiness of the whole human race." + +Passing up High Street, we come to an arched gateway, and find ourselves +in a quadrangular court, with antique looking buildings on each side. +Beyond this we come to another quadrangle, also surrounded by buildings +of perhaps more recent date. Passing straight on we reach a handsome +edifice of polished freestone, directly in front of us, and standing +alone, which is nothing less than the Hunterian museum. These then are +the buildings of Glasgow University. Beyond us is the college-green, +ornamented with trees, and divided into two parts by a sluggish stream +which passes through the centre. A number of the students, having laid +aside their scarlet gowns, are playing at football, a violent but +delightful and invigorating exercise. + +The University of Glasgow was founded in 1450, in the time of James the +Second. Bishop Turnbull was then in possession of the see, and his +successors were appointed chancellors. The history of the institution +has been various; but, generally speaking, it has enjoyed a high degree +of prosperity. Of late years the number of students has declined, from +what cause we know not. The number, in all the departments, does not +exceed a thousand, whereas, in 1824, when the writer was a student in +Glasgow, there were from fourteen to fifteen hundred. Well does he +remember the enthusiasm with which they welcomed their popular candidate +for rector, Henry Brougham, Esq., M. P., as he was then termed, and the +eager interest with which they listened to his inaugural discourse. Sir +James McIntosh, a fine hearty looking man, with bland expressive eyes, +and two of the sons of Robert Burns, tall, good looking young men, but +with no particular resemblance to their illustrious father, were +present, with others, to grace the occasion. Brougham was in the +maturity of his strength, and the hey-day of his fame. Tall, muscular, +and wiry, with searching visage, dark complexion, keen piercing eyes, +ample forehead, and long outstretched finger, he stood up the very +personification of strength and eloquence. But Brougham has been +frequently described, and we therefore pass him by. The next rector that +was chosen was Thomas Campbell, the poet, once a member of the college, +and one of its most distinguished ornaments. A large portion, if not the +whole of the "Pleasures of Hope" was written while he was a student at +college. + +Many distinguished men have been professors in this institution. Among +these Dr. Reid and Dr. Hutcheson, Dr. Simpson and Dr. Moore, Adam Smith, +and Professor Sandford stand pre-eminent. Well does the writer remember +the accomplished, but unfortunate Sandford, and the profound enthusiasm +for the Greek classics which he inspired in his students. He was a son +of the venerable Bishop Sandford, a distinguished graduate of Oxford, +and a man of the highest attainments in Greek and English literature. Of +small stature, he yet possessed an elegant and commanding form. His pale +face, finely chiselled mouth, dark eyes, and marble forehead are before +me now. I hear his clear, musical voice, rolling out, _ore rotundo_, the +resounding periods of Homer, or the energetic lines of Eschylus. No man +ever recited Greek with such enthusiasm and energy. It was a perfect +treat to hear him read the odes of Anacreon or the choral hymns of +Eschylus; to say nothing of his elegant translations, or his fine +critical remarks. He was created a baronet by the government, and bade +fair to be one of the most distinguished and influential literary men in +the country. But he was seduced into party politics, was sent as the +representative of Glasgow to parliament, and failed--failed utterly and +forever; for his want of success in the House of Commons preyed upon his +spirits, and caused his death. + +Among the distinguished men now occupying places in this university we +find Mr. Lushington, of Trinity College, Cambridge, professor of Greek, +and Dr. Nichol, author of the popular Lectures on the Wonders of the +Heavens, professor of practical astronomy. Mr. Mylne, professor of moral +philosophy, and Mr. Buchanan, professor of logic, are acute and learned +men. + +Leaving the college, we ascend High Street, and after reaching the top +of the hill, a little to the right, we see before us the "High Kirk," or +rather the old cathedral of Glasgow, one of the finest remains of +antiquity, surrounded by a vast church-yard, containing many rich and +ancient monumental tombs, and the mouldering bones of many by-gone +generations. It has a superb crypt, "equalled by none in the +kingdom,"--once used as a place of worship, but now as a place for +burying the dead. The author of Waverley has invested it with additional +interest by making it the scene of a striking incident in Rob Roy. The +whole edifice has a most commanding appearance. + +At the north-east end of the cathedral the spot is yet to be seen where +papal bigotry and superstition lighted the fires of religious +persecution. There in the year 1538, Jerome Russel, a member of the +convent of Franciscan friars, in Glasgow, a man of considerable talents, +and John Kennedy, a young man from Ayr, of high family, only about +eighteen years of age, were burned for having embraced the doctrines of +the infant Reformation. They sustained the terrible ordeal through which +they passed to glory with a becoming dignity and fortitude. "This is +your hour and power of darkness," said Russel, "now you sit as judges, +and we are wrongfully condemned, but the day cometh which will clear our +innocency, and you shall see your own blindness to your everlasting +confusion--go on and fulfil the measure of your iniquity." Is it +surprising that the reaction of reform which followed such proceedings +should occasionally have gone to unjustifiable lengths, and that the +people should have torn down "the rookeries," which sheltered those +birds of prey, as the papal tyrants of that day might well be termed? +Never were a nobler or more heroic set of men than the martyrs and +confessors of that trying time! Knox, Melville, and Wishart might be +stern, but they were men of godlike temper and heroic zeal, of whom the +world was not worthy; and whatever poetasters and novelists, sentimental +journalists, and infidel historians may say of them, they will be found +at last, occupying an honored place, at God's right hand. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + The Necropolis--Jewish Burial Place--Monument to John + Knox--Monuments of William Macgavin and Dr. + Dick--Reminiscences--Character and Writings of Dr. Dick--Pollok and + 'the Course of Time'--Grave of Motherwell--Sketch of his Life--His + Genius and Poetry--'Jeanie Morrison.'--'My Heid is like to rend, + Willie.'--'A Summer Sabbath Noon.' + + +East of the Cathedral, a few steps, lies the Necropolis, on the brow of +a hill which overlooks the city and the surrounding regions. We pass +over the "Bridge of Sighs," so named from its leading to the Cemetery, +and consisting of a handsome arch, spanning the "Molendinar Burn," a +brawling rivulet, whose waters, collected into a small basin, dash over +an artificial cascade into the ravine below. The Necropolis covers the +rocky eminence formerly crowned with dark firs, and supposed, in ancient +times to have been a retreat of the Druids, who here performed their +fearful rites. But how sweet and peaceful now, ornamented with fine +trees and shrubbery, shady walks, and beautiful monuments, a serene +retreat for the peaceful dead. In point of situation and appearance, the +Necropolis is superior to "Pere la Chaise," though certainly inferior to +"Greenwood" and "Mount Auburn," in our opinion the most attractive +burying-places in the world. Still, each of these has a beauty of its +own, well fitted to soften and subdue those feelings of grief and +horror naturally excited by death and the grave. Such sweet and +attractive places of burial are in harmony with the genius of the +Gospel. The ancient Greeks, from their very horror of death and their +ignorance of futurity, endeavored to invest the tomb with festal +associations. Why, then, should not we, upon whom the light of +immortality has descended, lay those we love in scenes of quiet beauty, +where "the wicked cease from troubling, and the weary are at rest?" Does +not Holy Writ declare, "_Blessed_ are the dead that die in the Lord?" It +is therefore meet to place their bodies only in scenes which remind us +of rest, of hope, and of Heaven. + + "The Dead cannot grieve, + Not a sob nor a sigh meets mine ear, + Which compassion itself could relieve. + Ah, sweetly they slumber, nor love, hope, or fear; + Peace! peace is the watchword, the only one here." + +Let affection, then, bury her dead and build her tombs amid the trees +and the flowers, which preach to us of the resurrection-morn and the +paradise of God. + + "The first tabernacle to Hope we will build, + And look for the sleepers around us to rise! + The second to Faith which insures it fulfilled; + And the third to the Lamb of the great sacrifice, + Who bequeathed us them both when he rose from the skies!" + +This cemetery was founded in 1831, and the first sale was to the Jews, +who require a burying-place for themselves. It lies in the north-west +corner of the grounds. The enclosure contains the requisite +accommodations for washing the bodies before interment as required by +the Jewish law, which also forbids one body to be deposited above +another. The place is ornamented with excellent taste. On the left is a +beautiful pillar, in imitation of Absalom's pillar in the "King's dale." +On the front of this column, and immediately under its capital, is a +piece of fret-work, formed of Hebrew letters, representing the words, +"Who among the gods is like unto Jehovah?" On the shaft of the column +are those touching stanzas from Byron's Hebrew Melodies, concluding +thus: + + "Tribes of the wandering foot and weary breast, + Where shall ye flee away and be at rest; + The wild dove hath her nest, the fox his cave, + Mankind their country--Israel but the grave." + +On the lower part of the column is the following: + + "Leave thy fatherless children, I will preserve them alive, and let + thy widows trust in me." + +On the other side of the gateway are engraved the following verses: + + "A voice was heard in Ramah, lamentation and bitter weeping: Rachel + weeping for her children, refused to be comforted for her children, + because they were not." + + "Thus saith the Lord, Refrain thy voice from weeping, and thine + eyes from tears, for thy work shall be rewarded, saith the Lord, + and they shall come again from the land of the enemy." + + "And there is hope in thine end, saith the Lord, that thy children + shall come again to their own border." + +And on the opposite pillar is the following: + + "How hath the Lord covered the daughter of Sion with a cloud in + his anger, and cast down from heaven to the earth the beauty of + Israel, and removed not his footstool in the day of his anger." + + "But though he caused grief, yet will he have compassion according + to the multitude of his mercies. For he doth not afflict willingly, + nor grieve the children of men." + +On the summit of the hill, and towering above the rest, is the +commanding monument of John Knox, intended to be commemorative of the +Reformation. On a lofty square pedestal, stands the statue of the stern +old Reformer, with the Bible in one hand, and the other stretched out, +as if in the act of addressing the multitude. On one side of the +pedestal is the following inscription: + + To testify gratitude for inestimable services + In the cause of Religion, Education, and Civil Liberty, + To awaken admiration + Of that Integrity, Disinterestedness and Courage, + Which stood unshaken in the midst of trials, + And in the maintenance of the highest objects-- + Finally, + To cherish unceasing reverence for the principles and blessings + of that Great Reformation, by the influence of which our + country, though in the midst of difficulties, has + risen to honor, prosperity, and happiness, + This Monument is erected by Voluntary Subscription, + To the Memory of + JOHN KNOX, + The chief instrument, under God, of the Reformation + in Scotland, + On the 22d day of Sept. 1825. + He died rejoicing in the faith of the Gospel, at Edinburgh, on the + 24th of Nov. 1532, in the 69th year of his age. + +On the other sides are the following: + + "The Reformation produced a revolution in the sentiments of + mankind, the greatest as well as most beneficial that has happened + since the publication of Christianity." + + "In 1547, and in the city where his friend George Wishart had + suffered, John Knox, surrounded with dangers, first preached the + doctrines of the Reformation. In 1559, on the 24th of August, the + parliament of Scotland adopted the confession of faith, presented + by the reformed ministers, and declared popery no longer to be the + religion of this kingdom. + + "John Knox became then a minister of Edinburgh, where he continued + to his death, the incorruptible guardian of our best interests. + + "'I can take God to witness,' he declared, 'that I never preached + in contempt of any man, and wise men will consider that a true + friend cannot flatter; especially in a case that involves the + salvation of the bodies and the souls, not of a few persons, but of + the whole realm.' When laid in the grave, the Regent said: 'There + lieth he who never feared the face of man, who was often threatened + with pistol and dagger, yet hath ended his days in peace and + honor.' + + "Patrick Hamilton, a youth of high rank and distinguished + attainments, was the first martyr in Scotland in the cause of the + Reformation. He was condemned to the flames in St. Andrews, in + 1528, and the 24th year of his age. + + "From 1530 to 1540, persecution raged in every quarter, many + suffered the most cruel deaths, and many fled to England and the + continent. Among these early martyrs were Jerome Russel and + Alexander Kennedy, two young men of great piety and talent, who + suffered at Glasgow. William Wishart returned to Scotland, from + which he had been banished, and preached the Gospel in various + quarters. In 1546, this heavenly-minded man, the friend and + instructor of Knox, was committed to the flames at St. Andrews." + +Let the thoughtful ponder these interesting memorials, and say whether +the Reformation in Scotland was not a glorious event! + +At a little distance from Knox's monument, is one to the memory of Mr. +Macgavin, a banker in Glasgow, and author of "the Protestant;" and +another of great elegance and beauty, to the memory of Dr. Dick, late +professor of theology in the United Secession Church. "Say not that the +good ever die," and "he sleeps a sacred sleep," are engraven, in Greek, +upon the sides of the monument, beautiful and appropriate sentiments for +the tomb of a Christian. Dr. Dick was pre-eminently a good man, and not +only so but a man of the highest attainments. Well does the writer +remember his dignified bearing, fine countenance, and silver hair. But a +few years ago, he sat at the feet of this venerable man, as his +instructor in theology, and received from his lips lessons of holy +wisdom. While professor of theology, the reverend doctor was also pastor +of one of the largest and most influential of the Secession churches in +the city of Glasgow. He was greatly venerated, both by the people of his +charge and by his theological pupils, for his dignity and purity of +character, his clear, well balanced intellect, his calm and consistent +piety. He wrote lucidly and elegantly on the "Inspiration of the +Scriptures," a work which a distinguished English bishop so much admired +that he carried it about with him in his pocket. His "Lectures on the +Acts of the Apostles," though inferior to the production just named, is +also a valuable work. Since his death, his "Theological Prelections" +have been published, and are much esteemed for their clear statement, +and defence of evangelical truth. Always lucid, always logical and +satisfactory, he is never profound or original. His style glides in +pellucid beauty, like a rivulet through the meadow, mirroring in its +calm depths the green foliage which adorns its banks, and the blue +heavens bending above it, but never cutting itself a new channel, or +sweeping onward, with majestic force, like a torrent to the sea. The +labors of Dr. Dick were pre-eminently useful; and a host of young men, +educated under his influence, now fill posts of the highest +responsibility in Scotland, and in other parts of the world. Pollok was +a student of the Doctor's at the same time with the writer, but was not +known to be possessed of any extraordinary genius till after the +publication of "The Course of Time." He was considered a man of talent, +however, and had written two or three sermons, containing passages of +considerable power. But his heart was in his great poem during the whole +of his student life. So intensely did he work upon it, that he had often +to be assisted to bed, from sheer exhaustion. "The Course of Time" has +many obvious faults, but abounds in strokes of genius and power. A great +soul has poured itself into this rugged and sometimes gloomy channel, +which, traversing the whole course of time, finally loses itself in the +ocean of eternity. Pollok was tall, well proportioned, of a dark +complexion, "sicklied o'er with the pale cast of thought," with deep-set +eyes, heavy eyebrows and black bushy hair. A smothered light burned in +his dark orbs, which flashed, with a meteor brilliancy, whenever he +spoke with enthusiasm and energy. He was born in 1798, at North +Muirhouse, in the parish of Eaglesham, Renfrewshire,-- + + "'Mong hills and streams + And melancholy deserts, where the sun + Saw as he pass'd, a shepherd only here + And there, watching his little flock; or heard + The ploughman talking to his steers." + +His father was an honest farmer, and his early home a scene of much +domestic endearment. To the trees which overshadowed the paternal +mansion he thus pays homage in his verse: + + "Much of my native scenery appears, + And presses forward, to be in my song; + But must not now; for much behind awaits, + Of higher note. Four trees I pass not by, + Which o'er our house their evening shadow threw;-- + Three ash, and one of elm. Tall trees they were, + And old; and had been old a century + Before my day. None living could say aught + About their youth; but they were goodly trees; + And oft I wondered, as I sat and thought + Beneath their summer shade, or in the night + Of winter heard the spirits of the wind + Growling among their boughs--how they had grown + So high, in such a rough, tempestuous place: + And when a hapless branch, torn by the blast + Fell down, I mourned as if a friend had fallen." + +Pollok had just finished his studies, and was licensed as a preacher, by +the United Secession Church, when he published his poem which thrilled +all hearts in Scotland, and struck his fellow-students with perfect +amazement, not unmingled, however, with delight. But he was then sick. +His over-wrought frame began to yield, and he sought health in a foreign +country, which he did not live to reach. He died in England in the +autumn of 1827, the same year in which he had published his poem, +having lived just long enough to complete it, and receive the applause +of his countrymen. + +Before leaving the Necropolis, we must visit a grave at one corner of +the grounds, in a quiet, shady spot, as if retired somewhat from the +rest. There it is, the grave of William Motherwell, one of the sweetest +of the Scottish poets, the author of "Bonnie Jeanie Morrison" and "My +Heid is like to rend, Willie," and many other poems of exquisite grace +and pathos. + +William Motherwell was born in the city of Glasgow in the year 1797, and +died there in 1835. In his eleventh year he was transferred to the care +of his uncle in Paisley, who brought him up. Here he received a liberal +education, and commenced the study of law. At the age of twenty-one he +was appointed Deputy to the Sheriff-Clerk of Paisley, a highly +respectable but not lucrative situation. He early evinced a love of +poetry, and in 1819 became editor of a miscellany, called "The Harp of +Renfrewshire," which he conducted with much taste and judgment. A relish +for antiquarian research led him to investigate the subject of the +ballad poetry of Scotland, the results of which he published in 1827, in +two volumes, entitled "Minstrelsy, Ancient and Modern." His introduction +to this collection is admirably written, and must form the basis of all +future investigations upon this subject. He seems to have been unusually +successful in recovering many of the old ballads, which were never +committed to writing, and known to very few persons. Some of these, +though rude and grotesque in thought or style, are exquisitely +beautiful. Allan Cunningham, another of Scotland's sweetest poets, had +labored in this field, but not with the same success. But the genius of +both of these poets was deeply imbued with the spirit of the old ballad +rhymes. They had conned them in their minds so frequently that they +naturally wrote their own effusions in the same simple and touching +style. Soon after the publication of his "Ancient Minstrelsy," +Motherwell became editor of a weekly journal in Paisley, and established +a magazine there, to which he contributed some of his finest poems. The +talent and spirit which he evinced in these literary labors, were the +occasion of his being removed to the city of Glasgow, to the editorial +care of the Glasgow Courier, in which situation he continued till his +death. He conducted this paper with great ability. + +Motherwell was of small stature, but thick set and muscular. His head +was large and finely formed; his eyes were bright and penetrating. In +mixed society he was rather reserved, "but appeared internally to enjoy +the feast of reason and the flow of soul." Somewhat pensive in his mood, +he lived much in the solitude of his own thoughts, and at times gave way +to a profound melancholy. This spirit pervades his poetry. The wailings +of a wounded heart mingle with his fine descriptions of nature, and his +lofty aspirations after the beautiful and true. + +In 1832 he collected and published his poems in one volume. He was also +associated with the Ettrick Shepherd in editing the works of Burns, and +at the time of his death was collecting materials for the life of +Tannahill, an humble weaver in Paisley, but one of the finest +song-writers Scotland has ever produced. "Accompanied by a literary +friend, on the first of November, 1835, he had been dining in the +country, about a couple of miles from Glasgow, and on his return home, +feeling indisposed, he went to bed. In a few hours thereafter he +awakened, and complained of a pain in the head, which increased so much +as to render him speechless. Medical assistance was speedily obtained; +but alas! it was of no avail--the blow was struck, and the curtain had +finally fallen over the life and fortunes of William Motherwell. One +universal feeling of regret and sympathy seemed to extend over society, +when the sudden and premature decease of this accomplished poet and +elegant writer became known. His funeral was attended by a large body of +the citizens, by the most eminent and learned of the literary +professions, and by persons of all shades of political opinions. He was +interred in the Necropolis of Glasgow, not far from the resting-place of +his fast friend, Mr. William Henderson." + +Though Motherwell's death was thus sudden and unexpected, he seems to +have had something like a premonition of it. The following touching +lines were given to a friend, a day or two before his decease: + + When I beneath the cold red earth am sleeping, + Life's fever o'er, + Will there for me be any bright eye weeping, + That I'm no more? + Will there be any heart still memory keeping, + Of heretofore? + + When the great winds through leafless forests rushing, + Sad music make? + When the swollen streams, o'er crag and gully gushing, + Like full hearts break, + Will there then one whose heart despair is crushing, + Mourn for my sake? + + When the bright sun upon that spot is shining, + With purest ray, + And the small flowers their buds and blossoms twining, + Burst through that clay, + Will there be one still on that spot repining, + Lost hopes all day? + + When no star twinkles with its eye of glory, + On that low mound, + And wintry storms have with their ruins hoary, + Its loneness crowned; + Will there be then one versed in misery's story, + Pacing it round? + + It may be so,--but this is selfish sorrow, + To ask such meed-- + A weakness and a wickedness to borrow + From hearts that bleed, + The waitings of to-day for what to-morrow + Shall never need. + + Lay me then gently in my narrow dwelling, + Thou gentle heart; + And though thy bosom should with grief be swelling, + Let no tear start; + It were in vain--for Time hath long been knelling-- + Sad one, depart! + +These are mournful, but somewhat hopeful strains; for one who feels +that "time has long been knelling, sad one, depart!" must, if not a +sceptic, have looked beyond the grave, and descried in better worlds, +rest and solace for the aching heart. Here, in his "narrow dwelling," he +gently sleeps, while pilgrims from afar drop tears of sympathy upon its +"grassy mound." + +Motherwell was a man of pure genius. His poems are distinguished for +their deep tenderness and exquisite melody. They are gemmed, moreover, +with beautiful conceptions, with original and striking expressions. +There is nothing, in the whole range of Scottish poetry, except Burns's +"Highland Mary," equal in beauty and pathos to + + + "JEANIE MORRISON." + + I've wandered east I've wandered west, + Through mony a weary way; + But never, never can forget, + The luve o' life's young day! + The fire that's blawn on Beltane[126] e'en, + May weel be black 'gin[127] Yule,[128] + But blacker fa' awaits the heart + When first fond luve grows cule. + + O dear, dear Jeanie Morrison, + The thochts of bygane years, + Still fling their shadows o'er my path, + And blind my een wi' tears: + They blind my een wi' saut,[129] saut tears, + And sair and sick I pine, + As memory idly summons up + The blithe blinks[130] o' lang syne. + + 'Twas then we luvit ilk[131] ither weel, + 'Twas then we twa did part; + Sweet time--sad time! twa bairns at school, + Twa bairns and but ae[132] heart! + 'Twas then we sat on ae laigh[133] bink, + To lier[134] ilk ither lear; + And tones, and looks, and smiles were shed, + Remembered evermair. + + I wonder, Jeanie, aften yet, + When sitting on that bink, + Cheek touchin' cheek, loof[135] locked in loof, + What our wee heads could think. + When baith bent down o'er ae braid page + Wi' ae buik on our knee, + Thy lips were on thy lesson, but + My lesson was in thee. + + O mind[136] ye how we hung our heads, + How cheeks brent red wi' shame, + Whene'er the schule[137] weans laughin' said, + We cleeked[138] thegither hame? + And mind ye o' the Saturdays, + (The schule then skail't[139] at noon,) + When we ran aff to speel[140] the braes, + The broomy braes o' June? + + My heid runs round and round about, + My heart flows like a sea, + As ane by ane the thochts rush back, + O' schule time and o' thee. + O mornin' life! O mornin' luve! + O lichtsome days and lang, + When hinnied[141] hopes around our hearts, + Like simmer blossoms sprang! + + O mind ye, luve, how aft we left + The deavin'[142] dinsome[143] toun, + To wander by the green burnside, + And hear its waters croon?[144] + The simmer leaves hung ower our heads, + The flowers burst round our feet, + And in the gloamin' o' the wood, + The throssil[145] whusslit sweet. + + The throssil whusslit in the wood, + The burn sang to the trees, + And we wi' Nature's heart in tune, + Concerted harmonies; + And on the knowe[146] abune the burn, + For hours thegither sat: + In the silentness o' joy, till baith + Wi' very, very gladness grat.[147] + + Ay, ay, dear Jeanie Morrison, + Tears trinkled down your cheek, + Like dew-beads on a rose, yet nane + Had ony power to speak! + That was a time, a blessed time, + When hearts were fresh and young, + When freely gushed all feelings forth, + Unsyllabled,--unsung! + + I marvel, Jeanie Morrison, + Gin[148] I hae been to thee, + As closely twined wi' earliest thochts, + As ye hae been to me? + O! tell me gin their music fills + Thine ear as it does mine; + O! say gin e'er your heart grows[149] grit + Wi' dreamings o' lang syne? + + I've wandered east, I've wandered west, + I've borne a weary lot; + But in my wanderings far or near, + Ye never were forgot. + The fount that first burst frae this heart, + Still travels on its way; + And channels deeper as it runs, + The luve o' life's young day. + + O dear, dear Jeanie Morrison, + Since we were sindered young, + I've never seen your face, nor heard + The music o' your tongue; + But I could hug all wretchedness, + And happy could I die, + Did I but ken your heart still dreamed, + O' bygane days and me! + +[Footnote 126: Holyrood day.] + +[Footnote 127: Until.] + +[Footnote 128: Christmas.] + +[Footnote 129: Salt.] + +[Footnote 130: Gleams, or flashes.] + +[Footnote 131: Each other.] + +[Footnote 132: One.] + +[Footnote 133: Low bench.] + +[Footnote 134: To teach.] + +[Footnote 135: Hand.] + +[Footnote 136: Remember.] + +[Footnote 137: School children.] + +[Footnote 138: Clasped.] + +[Footnote 139: Dismissed.] + +[Footnote 140: Climb.] + +[Footnote 141: Honied.] + +[Footnote 142: Deafening.] + +[Footnote 143: Noisy.] + +[Footnote 144: Murmur.] + +[Footnote 145: Thrush or mavis.] + +[Footnote 146: Knoll.] + +[Footnote 147: Wept.] + +[Footnote 148: If.] + +[Footnote 149: Swells.] + +Equally beautiful and still more pathetic, is "_My Heid is like to rend, +Willie_." Indeed, we know of nothing so affecting as the last stanzas of +this exquisite ballad. The poor heart-broken girl gives abundant +evidence of her profound penitence: + + O! dinna mind my words, Willie, + I downa seek to blame,-- + But O! it's hard to live, Willie, + And dree a world's shame! + Het tears are hailin' ower your cheek, + And hailin' ower your chin; + Why weep ye sae for worthlessness, + For sorrow and for sin. + + I'm weary o' this warld, Willie, + And sick wi' a' I see,-- + I canna live as I hae lived, + Or be as I should be. + But fauld unto your heart, Willie, + The heart that still is thine,-- + And kiss ance mair the white, white cheek, + Ye said was red lang syne. + + A stoun[150] gaes through my heid, Willie, + A sair stoun through my heart,-- + O! hand me up, and let me kiss + Thy brow, ere we twa pairt. + Anither, and anither yet!-- + How fast my life's strings break!-- + Farewell! farewell! through yon kirk-yard + Step lichtly for my sake! + + The lav'rock[151] in the lift,[152] Willie, + That lilts[153] far ower our heid, + Will sing the morn as merrilie + Abune the clay-cauld deid; + And this green turf we're sittin' on, + Wi' dew-draps shimmerin' sheen, + Will hap[154] the heart that luvit thee, + As warld has seldom seen. + + But O! remember me, Willie, + On land where'er ye be,-- + And O! think on the leal, leal heart, + That ne'er luvit ane but thee! + And O! think on the cauld, cauld mools,[155] + That file[156] my yellow hair,-- + That kiss the cheek, that kiss the chin, + Ye never sail kiss mair. + +[Footnote 150: A darting pain.] + +[Footnote 151: Lark.] + +[Footnote 152: Sky.] + +[Footnote 153: Sings.] + +[Footnote 154: Cover.] + +[Footnote 155: Clods.] + +[Footnote 156: Soil.] + +As a specimen of Motherwell's descriptive powers, the exquisite grace of +his diction, and the deep-toned melody of his verse, and not only so, +but of his high devotional feelings, we give the following: + + A SABBATH SUMMER NOON. + + The calmness of this noontide hour, + The shadow of this wood, + The fragrance of each wilding flower + Are marvelously good; + O! here crazed spirits breathe the balm, + Of nature's solitude! + + It is a most delicious calm + That resteth everywhere,-- + The holiness of soul-sung psalm, + Of felt, but voiceless prayer! + With hearts too full to speak their bliss, + God's creatures silent are. + + They silent are; but not the less + In this most tranquil hour, + Of deep, unbroken dreaminess, + They own that Love and Power, + Which like the softest sunshine rests, + On every leaf and flower. + + How silent are the song-filled nests + That crowd this drowsy tree,-- + How mute is every feathered breast + That swelled with melody! + And yet bright bead-like eyes declare, + This hour is exstacy. + + Heart forth! as uncaged bird through air, + And mingle in the tide + Of blessed things, that, lacking care, + How full of beauty glide, + Around thee, in their angel hues + Of joy and sinless pride. + + Here on this green bank that o'er-views + The far retreating glen, + Beneath the spreading beech-tree muse, + On all within thy ken; + For lovelier scene shall never break, + On thy dimmed sight again. + + Slow stealing from the tangled brake, + That skirts the distant hill, + With noiseless hoof two bright fawns make + For yonder lapsing rill; + Meek children of the forest gloom, + Drink on, and fear no ill! + + And buried in the yellow broom, + That crowns the neighboring height, + Couches a loutish shepherd groom, + With all his flocks in sight; + Which dot the green braes gloriously, + With spots o' living light. + + It is a sight that filleth me + With meditative joy, + To mark these dumb things curiously + Crowd round the guardian boy; + As if they felt this Sabbath hour + Of bliss lacked all alloy. + + I bend me towards the tiny flower, + That underneath this tree, + Opens its little breast of sweets + In meekest modesty, + And breathes the eloquence of love, + In muteness, Lord! to thee. + + * * * * * + + The silentness of night doth brood + O'er this bright summer noon; + And nature, in her holiest mood, + Doth all things well attune, + To joy in the religious dreams + Of green and leafy June. + + Far down the glen in distance gleams, + The hamlet's tapering spire, + And glittering in meridial beams + Its vane is tongued with fire; + And hark, how sweet its silvery bell,-- + And hark, the rustic choir! + + The holy sounds float up the dell + To fill my ravished ear, + And now the glorious anthems swell,-- + Of worshippers sincere,-- + Of hearts bowed in the dust, that shed + Faith's penitential tear. + + Dear Lord! thy shadow is forth spread, + On all mine eye can see; + And filled at the pure fountain-head + Of deepest piety, + My heart loves all created things, + And travels home to thee. + + Around me while the sunshine flings, + A flood of mocky gold, + My chastened spirit once more sings, + As it was wont of old, + That lay of gratitude which burst + From young heart uncontrolled. + + When in the midst of nature nursed, + Sweet influences fell, + On childly hearts that were athirst, + Like soft dews in the bell + Of tender flowers, that bowed their heads, + And breathed a fresher smell. + + So, even now this hour hath sped, + In rapturous thought o'er me, + Feeling myself with nature wed,-- + A holy mystery,-- + A part of earth, a part of heaven, + A part, great God! of Thee. + + Fast fade the cares of life's dull even, + They perish as the weed, + While unto me the power is given, + A moral deep to read, + In every silent throe of mind, + Eternal beauties breed. + +It would be pleasant, but we have not time, to make the acquaintance of +some of the Glasgow clergy, particularly of the classic Wardlaw, the +vigorous Heugh,[157] the accomplished King, the energetic Robson, the +intelligent Buchanan, the eloquent Willis, the strong "in knee'd" +Anderson, and others of equal distinction. A fair specimen of the +Scottish clergy has been given in the ministers of Edinburgh, and that +must suffice for the present. + +[Footnote 157: Since the above was written, the Rev. Dr. Heugh has gone +to his reward in heaven. He was a man of fine talents, deep piety, and +most engaging manners. We met him some years ago on the banks of Lake +Leman, whither he had gone for his health, in company with Merle +D'Aubigne, Joseph J. Gurney and others; on which occasion Dr. Heugh gave +an interesting and graphic account of the Free Church movement, which +was translated for the benefit of those who did not understand English, +by Professor La Harpe. Never shall we forget that interview. There were +present, French and English, German and Swiss, Scots and Americans. Some +of these were Presbyterians, others Episcopalians, and others Baptists, +Lutherans and Quakers; but all were "one in Christ Jesus." Joseph J. +Gurney closed our interview with a prayer in the French language, the +most simple, solemn, and touching we ever heard. Ah! little did we think +that one of the most agreeable of that happy company was so soon to pass +away from the scenes of earth. The following sketch of Dr. Heugh as a +preacher, is from a funeral sermon by Dr. John Brown, of Edinburgh. + +"As a preacher, he was judicious, faithful, discriminating; not +exclusively doctrinal or practical, or experimental, but all by turns, +and often all in the same discourse. The matter of his discourses was +drawn from the living oracles, and his constant aim was to explain and +to apply the saving doctrines of the cross--to bring the mind and hearts +of men into harmony with the mind and will of God, especially as those +are revealed in the person and work of his incarnate Son. He was +eminently a scriptural preacher, both in substance and in form. The +commands of the Master, 'Divide rightly the word of truth,' 'Feed my +sheep,' 'Feed my lambs,' seemed to be ever present to his mind, and to +guide all his ministerial studies; and hence it was that his pulpit +services were marked by a lucid, pointed, and affectionate inculcation +of those varied truths which the circumstances of his hearers required. +There was nothing trivial or extraneous in his discussions. He stated +massy important thoughts, wide and comprehensive views--the result of +much reflection and experience--illustrative of his subject and suited +to the occasion--in simple and appropriate words; and the hearer was +made to feel that he was not listening to human speculations, but that +Christ was, by the preacher, unfolding his mind and will--'making +manifest the savor of his knowledge.' + +"His manner in the pulpit was singularly easy, graceful and pleasing. +All that he said and did was natural and becoming. His fine open +countenance, his animated appearance, his fluency of utterance, the +pleasantly modulated tones of his voice, his graceful action, and the +solemn devotional feeling which obviously pervaded all these, rivetted +attention, and threw a peculiar charm over his whole discourse. There +was no seeking for effect, no going out of the way for ornaments, no +efforts to dazzle and to overwhelm. He was occupied with his subject, +and sought to fill the minds of his hearers with it, as his own mind was +filled with it. There were occasionally passages of great beauty, +touchingly tender statements, stirring suddenly the deeper emotions of +the heart; but the ordinary character of his eloquence was instructive +and pleasing, rather than affecting or overpowering."] + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + Dumbarton Castle--Lochlomond--Luss--Ascent of + Benlomond--Magnificent Views--Ride to Loch-Katrine--Rob Roy + Macgregor--'Gathering of Clan Gregor'--Loch-Katrine and the + Trosachs--The city of Perth--Martyrdom of Helen Stark and her + husband. + + +Embarking in a steamer at Glasgow, we glide down the Clyde as far as +Dumbarton Castle, which rises, in stern and solitary majesty, from the +bosom of the river,-- + + "A castled steep, + Whose banner hangeth o'er the time-worn tower + So idly, that rapt fancy deemeth it + A metaphor of peace." + +In ancient times, however, those old battlements frequently stood the +shock of invading war. Dumbarton was the "Alcluith" of the ancient +Britons, subsequently "Dumbriton," or "the fortified hill of the +Britons." The vale of the Clyde was called "Strathclutha," and here was +the capital of the kingdom of the "Strathclyde Britons." "Alcluith" is +the "Balclutha" of Ossian; _balla_ signifying a _wall_ or _bulwark_, +from the Latin _vallum_, a _wall_. "I have seen the walls of Balclutha," +sings Ossian, in the poem of Carron, "but they were desolate. The fire +had resounded in the halls; and the voice of the people is heard no +more. The stream of the Clutha (Clyde) was removed from its place by +the fall of the walls. The thistle shook here its lonely head; the moss +whistled to the wind. The fox looked out from the windows; the rank +grass of the walls waved round its head. Desolate is the dwelling of +Morna; silence is in the house of her fathers." In the reign of Queen +Mary this stronghold was taken by an escalade. This was accomplished by +Captain Crawford, an officer of great energy and talent, who acted for +the confederated lords who opposed Queen Mary after the death of her +husband, Henry Darnley. Provided with scaling-ladders, and whatever else +was necessary, Crawford set out from Glasgow with a small but determined +body of men. The night was dark and misty, when they reached the +castle-walls. Crawford, and a soldier who acted as a guide, scrambled up +to a ledge of rock, where they fastened a ladder to a tree, which grew +on one of its cliffs. Ascending by this means, the whole party stood +together with their chief on this natural parapet. But they were far +from the point which they hoped to reach. Again the ladder was planted, +and the ascent begun. But all at once one of the foremost soldiers, when +half way up the ladder, was seized with a sudden fit, and clung to the +ladder stiff and motionless. All further progress was at an end. What to +do they knew not. To cut him down would be cruel, and besides might +awaken the garrison. In this emergency, Crawford had the man secured, by +means of ropes to the ladder, which was turned over and all passed up in +safety to the foot of the wall. Day began to break, and they hastened +to scale the wall. The first man who reached the parapet was seen by a +sentinel, who was quickly knocked in the head. The whole party, with +furious shouts, rushed over the wall, and took possession of the +magazine, seized the cannon, and before the besieged could help +themselves, had entire control of the Castle. + +But we cannot linger here; so, bidding adieu to Dumbarton, with its +martial associations, we strike off from the river at right angles, and, +after a pleasant ride of four or five miles, through a peaceful and +agreeable country, we reach the south end of Lochlomond, the "Queen of +the Scottish lakes," where we find a little steamer in waiting, which +takes us, and a company of sportsmen, travellers and others, over the +placid waves of this magnificent sheet of water. The lake is some thirty +miles in length, and of unequal breadth, being sometimes four or five +miles, and then again not more than a single mile in width, gorgeously +begemmed with verdant and beautifully wooded islands, of larger and +smaller size, to the number of thirty, and shaded here and there by +mountains, covered with verdure and trees to their summits, or grim +cliffs, towering, in solitary grandeur, above the dark and heaving +waters beneath. How finely our little steamer dashes the water from her +prow, as if she really enjoyed the trip, among the beautiful scenery of +this charming lake! What variety of light and shade! What diversity of +scene, as isle after isle, bold headland, lofty cliff, or wooded +acclivity, meets the gaze! How earth and air and sky, yon fleecy clouds +that skirt the horizon, wild crags, and verdant slopes, clumps of trees +on the water's edge, islands of green mirroring their foliage in the +bosom of the lake, mingle and intermingle in ever varying forms of +beauty and grandeur! Yonder, too, is Benlomond, the genius of the place, +towering above the lesser mountains, and looking down, as if +protectingly, upon the lake he loves. The shores are exceedingly +beautiful; on one side lying low, "undulating with fields and groves, +where many a pleasant dwelling is embowered, into lines of hills that +gradually soften away into another land. On the other side, sloping +back, or overhanging, mounts beautiful in their bareness, for they are +green as emerald; others, scarcely more beautiful, studded with fair +trees, some altogether woods. They soon form into mountains, and the +mountains become more and more majestical, yet beauty never deserts +them, and her spirit continues to tame that of the frowning cliffs." +"The islands," continues Professor Wilson, from whom we make this fine +extract, "are forever arranging themselves into new forms, every one +more and more beautiful; at least so they seem to be, perpetually +occurring, yet always unexpected; and there is a pleasure even in such a +series of slight surprises that enhances the delight of admiration." + +The southern part of the lake is the most beautiful, but the northern +the most sublime. The channel narrows, and the mountains rise higher and +higher, casting dark shadows into the water. For a moment it seems +gloomy, but high up in the mountains you discover spots of green; and +the sunlight glancing down, between the masses of shadow, lights up the +waves of the lake with a strange beauty, as if it were something purer +and more spirit-like than the beauty of the ordinary world. + +But we will stop at the village of Luss, near the edge of the lake, +surrounded by mountain scenery, in some places rough and bleak, but +charmingly diversified by deep wooded glens, and romantic ravines. + +The sun is sinking behind the western hills--the evening shadows are +resting in the vallies, while the tops of those craggy heights around us +are still burning with the last rays of departing day. We wander towards +the southern part of the parish, with feelings subdued by the +magnificent scenery which everywhere meets our gaze, and the solemn +stillness which reigns among the mountains, broken only by the tinkling +of a small stream winding its way to the lake, as if seeking a home in +its bosom, like the soul of a true Christian, which is ever tending +onward to the infinite and immortal. At length, while the sweet and long +continued "gloaming" of the Scottish summer envelopes everything in its +soft and dubious light, we reach the remains of a large cairn, a mound +of stones and earth, called "Carn-na-Cheasoig," the cairn of St. Kessog. +Here then, according to tradition, lies the dust of St. Kessog, who is +said to have suffered martyrdom near the site of this cairn, in the +sixth century, and who anciently was venerated as the guardian saint of +Luss. Was St. Kessog a true martyr? We trust he was, and can easily +imagine the cruel but triumphant death of the holy man. At such an hour, +and in such a scene, with the shadow of these great, sky-pointing +mountains, resting on our spirits, we might almost believe anything; +anything, at least, lofty and heart-stirring. It is not surprising that +the Highlanders are superstitious: but it is surprising that they are +not more religious. An infidel or a fanatic among the hills seems an +impossibility. Nor are the inhabitants of these high regions inclined +either to scepticism or fanatacism. But they are ignorant of +Christianity in its purer forms; and hence are easily subjected to +superstitious fears. But we are not yet among the Highlanders; for Luss +and the regions around are naturally subjected to Lowland influences. + +Next morning we pass over the lake in a small boat to Rowardennan, on +the eastern shore, whence we commence the ascent of Benlomond, which +rises to a height of something more than three thousand feet. The +distance from Rowardennan to the top is generally reckoned about six +miles. Wending along the sides of the mountain we gradually ascend to +the bare and craggy summit, but not without resting here and there, and +stopping to gaze upon the expanding landscape, as it spreads further and +further towards the distant seas. We are somewhat fatigued, but how +refreshing the mountain breeze, and how exhilarating the magnificent +scenery which opens on every side, and absolutely reaches from sea to +sea! There, beneath us, like a belt of liquid light, stretches the long +and beautiful Lochlomond, sparkling under the rays of the sun, fringed +with hills, rocks, and woods, and adorned with green isles, reposing on +its heaving bosom, like gems of emerald chased in gold. Far off are the +islands of Bute and Arran, and nearer the fertile Strath-Clutha, through +which flows the river Clyde, adorned with villages, castles and +country-seats, the city of Glasgow, covered with a misty vapor, the +whole of Lanarkshire, the city of Edinburgh, and the vast and delightful +tract of country beyond, the Firth of Forth, Stirling Castle, and the +links of the Forth gliding in peaceful beauty through its green and +wooded vale. To the north a scene presents itself of wild and varied +grandeur, long ranges of Alpine heights, mighty crags towering to the +sky, dark lakes, and deep-cloven ravines, wild and desolate moors, +straggling forests, and rich secluded vales. Near us rises the hoary +Benvoirloich; and further north, among inferior mountains, Bencruachan +and Bennevis lift their lofty heads. Taking a wider range we get a +distant glimpse of the wide Atlantic, and the coast of green Erin, the +mountains of Cumberland, and the German Ocean, washing the north-eastern +coasts of Scotland. But the eye rests, as if by enchantment, upon the +magnificent mountain scenery to the north, inferior only in grandeur and +beauty to the mountains of Switzerland. + + "Crags, knolls and mounds, confusedly hurled, + The fragments of an earlier world; + And mountains that like giants stand, + To sentinel enchanted land." + +How elevating such a position, and such scenery. How the soul dilates +and rejoices, as if it were a part of the mighty spectacle. Ah! this +were a place for angels to light upon, and hymn the praise of that +infinite Being "whose are the mountains, and the vallies, and the +resplendent rivers." + +But it is time to descend, though it would be pleasant, doubtless, to +linger here till sunset, and see those mountain heights shining like +stars in the departing radiance, while all beneath was covered with +shadow; and if the evening were still, to listen to the mingled murmur +which ever ascends through the calm air, from a region of streams and +torrents. + +Coasting along the lake we reach Inversnaid mill at its upper extremity, +and securing some Highland ponies, little tough shaggy fellows, +sure-footed and self-willed, we ramble through a lonely, rock-bound +glen, the scene of the feats of Rob Roy Macgregor. In one of the smoky +huts of this glen we are shown a long Spanish musket, six feet and a +half in length, said to have belonged to the famous outlaw, whose +original residence was in this lonely region. We also pass the hut in +which Helen Macgregor, his wife, was born and brought up. By forgetting +a few years, one can easily imagine the whole region filled with wild +'kilted' Highlanders, shouting the war-cry of Macdonald, Glengarry, or +Macgregor. The spirit of these wild clans has been admirably depicted by +Sir Walter Scott. Nothing can be more spirited than his "Gathering of +Clan-Gregor," which in this rough glen, seems to gather a peculiar +intensity of meaning. + + "The moon's on the lake, the mist's on the brae, + And the clan has a name that is nameless by day; + Then gather, gather, gather, Gregalich! + + Our signal for fight that from monarchs we drew, + Must be heard but by night in our vengeful haloo; + Then haloo, Gregalich, haloo Gregalich! + + Glen Orchy's proud mountains, Coalchuirn and her towers, + Glenstrae and Glenlyon no longer are ours; + We're landless, landless, Gregalich! + + But doomed and devoted by vassal and lord, + Macgregor has still both his heart and his sword; + Then courage, courage, courage, Gregalich! + + If they rob us of name, and pursue us with beagles, + Give their roofs to the flame, and their flesh to the eagles; + Then vengeance, vengeance, vengeance, Gregalich! + + While there's leaves in the forest, or foam on the river, + Macgregor despite them, shall flourish forever! + Come then, Gregalich! Come then, Gregalich! + + Through the depths of Lochkatrine the steed shall career, + O'er the peak of Benlomond the galley shall steer, + And the rocks of Craig-Royston, like icicles melt, + Ere our wrongs be forgot, or our vengeance unfelt! + Then gather, gather, gather, Gregalich!" + +We reach Lochkatrine, a narrow sheet of water, ten miles in length, +winding, in serpentine turns, among the huge mountains which guard it on +every side. This, and the wild glen called the Trosachs, are embalmed in +the poetry of Sir Walter Scott, whose ethereal genius has imparted to +them a charm which they would not otherwise possess. Wild and grand the +scenery certainly is, secluded so far among the mountains, and guarded +so wondrously by + + "Rocky summits, split and rent," + +which, gleaming under the rays of the morning sun, appeared to the eye +of poetical inspiration, + + "Like turret, dome or battlement, + Or seemed fantastically set + With cupola or minaret, + Wild crests as pagod ever deck'd, + Or mosque of Eastern minaret." + +And not only so, but richly adorned with forest-trees and wild flowers +among the rifted rocks and the "smiling glades between," lovelier by far +than ever met any but a poet's eye. + + "Boon nature scattered free and wild, + Each plant or flower, the mountains' child. + Here eglantine embalmed the air, + Hawthorne and hazel mingled there; + The primrose, pale and violet flower, + Found in each cliff a narrow bower; + Foxglove and nightshade, side by side, + Emblems of punishment and pride, + Group'd their dark hues with every stain + The weather-beaten crags retain. + With boughs that quaked at every breath + Gray birch and aspen wept beneath; + Aloft the ash and warrior oak, + Cast anchor in the rifted rock; + And higher yet the pine tree hung + His shattered trunk, and frequent flung, + When seemed the cliffs to mount on high, + His boughs athwart the narrow'd sky. + Highest of all, where white peaks glanced, + Where glistening streamers waved and danced, + The wanderer's eye could barely view + The summer heaven's delicious blue; + So wondrous wild, the whole might seem + The scenery of a fairy dream." + +The scenery at the east end of Lochkatrine, where the lake narrows, like +a placid river, under the eye of Benvenue, the lower parts of which are +richly wooded, is exceedingly beautiful. Through the whole of this glen, +the Highland guides point out the localities and incidents mentioned in +the "Lady of the Lake," as if it were a historical verity. Such is the +power of genius, which "gives to airy nothings a local habitation and a +name." + + "Oh! who would think, in cheerless solitude, + Who o'er these twilight waters glided slow, + That genius, with a time-surviving glow, + These wild lone scenes so proudly hath imbued! + Or that from 'hum of men' so far remote, + Where blue waves gleam, and mountains darken round, + And trees, with broad boughs shed a gloom profound, + A poet here should from his trackless thought + Elysian prospects conjure up, and sing + Of bright achievement in the olden days, + When chieftain valor sued for beauty's praise, + And magic virtues charmed St. Fillan's spring; + Until in worlds where Chilian mountains raise + Their cloud-capt heads admiring souls should wing + Hither their flight, to wilds whereon I gaze." + +Leaving Lochkatrine, we pass in a south-easterly direction, through +Callendar to Auchterarder, a parish famous in the annals of the Free +Church of Scotland, and thence, travelling through a delightful country, +reach "the bonnie town o' Perth," which lies so charmingly on the banks +of the Tay. Surrounded by some of the finest scenery in Scotland, with +Kinnoul House and Kinfauns Castle on the one side, and Scone, the old +palace in which the kings of Scotland were crowned, on the other, +clustering with memories of the olden time, and withal being a +well-built city, with some venerable churches and handsome public +edifices, Perth is one of the most interesting places in Scotland. +Moreover, it was anciently the capital of the kingdom, and contains a +good many relics of its former glory. Here the doctrines of the +Reformation early took root, and some of the citizens suffered martyrdom +for Christ's sake. Helen Stark and her husband, for refusing to pray to +the Virgin Mary, were condemned to die. She desired to be executed with +her husband, but her request was refused. On the way to the scaffold, +she exhorted him to constancy in the cause of Christ, and as she parted +with him, said, "Husband, be glad; we have lived together many joyful +days, and this day of our death we ought to esteem the most joyful of +them all, for we shall have joy forever; therefore, I will not bid you +good night, for we shall shortly meet in the kingdom of Heaven." After +the men were executed, Helen was taken to a pool of water yard by, when, +having recommended her dear children to the charity of her neighbors, +her infant having been taken from her breast, "she was drowned, and +died," says the historian of the town, "with great courage and comfort." + +Perth rejoices in the possession of two beautiful "Commons," or +"Inches," as they are called, green as emerald, and bordered by long +avenues of magnificent trees. The Tay gleams through the verdant +foliage, and is seen winding, in serene beauty, far down among the rich +meadows and smooth lawns which adorn its banks. Behind it are the Sidlaw +hills, and looming up, in the distance, the blue ridges of the +Grampians. The lands around it are highly cultivated, and support a +numerous race of farmers, many of whom have grown rich from the produce +of the soil. + +But the shadows of evening are beginning to fall upon the landscape; +to-morrow is "the rest of the holy Sabbath," and a comfortable "'tween +and supper-time" awaits us at the house of a friend at some distance +from Perth, which we must immediately leave. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + Sabbath Morning-- 'The Sabbath,' by James Grahame--Sketch of his + Life--Extracts from his Poetry--The Cameronians--'Dream of the + Martyrs,' by James Hislop--Sabbath Morning Walk--Country + Church--The old Preacher--The Interval of Worship--Conversation in + the Church-yard--Going Home from Church--Sabbath Evening. + + +Sabbath morning dawns upon us, bright and clear, and all around a hushed +stillness pervades the air. + + "With silent awe I hail the sacred morn, + That scarcely wakes while all the fields are still; + A soothing calm on every breeze is borne, + A graver murmur echoes from the hill, + And softer sings the linnet from the thorn; + The skylark warbles in a tone less shrill. + Hail, light serene! hail, sacred Sabbath morn! + The sky a placid yellow lustre throws; + The gales that lately sighed along the grove + Have hushed their drowsy wings in dead repose; + The hovering rack of clouds forgets to move, + So soft the day when the first morn arose." + +Thus sang Leyden, the celebrated scholar, poet, and traveller, who, like +all true sons of Scotland, revered the holy Sabbath, regarding it as the +best of days, the sweetest, purest, calmest of the seven! The same +images, borrowed not from Leyden, but from nature and his own heart, are +used by Grahame, in his delightful poem of 'The Sabbath,' a production +not without defects, but one of the most popular in Scotland. + + "How still the morning of the hallowed day! + Mute is the voice of rural labor, hush'd + The ploughboy's whistle and the milkmaid's song. + The scythe lies glittering in the dewy wreath + Of tedded grass, mingled with fading flowers, + That yestermorn bloomed waving in the breeze. + Sounds the most faint attract the ear--the hum + Of early bee, the trickling of the dew, + The distant bleating, midway up the hill. + Calmness seems throned on yon unmoving cloud. + To him who wanders o'er the upland leas, + The blackbird's note comes mellower from the dale; + And sweeter from the sky the gladsome lark + Warbles his heaven-tuned song; the lulling brook + Murmurs more gently down the deep-sunk glen; + While from yon lowly roof, whose curling smoke + O'ermounts the mist, is heard at intervals + The voice of psalm, the simple song of praise." + +The Rev. James Grahame, the author of 'The Sabbath,' 'The Birds of +Scotland,' 'Biblical Pictures,' and so forth, was born in 1765, in the +city of Glasgow. He studied law, but afterwards took orders in the +Church of England, and officiated as curate in the counties of +Gloucester and Durham. He is said to have been a popular and useful +preacher. Possessed of great simplicity of character, purity of morals, +and kindness of heart, he won the affections of all his parishioners. +Suffering from ill health, he gave up his curacy, and returned to +Scotland, where he acted, we believe, as a school-teacher. His poems, +particularly that of 'The Sabbath,' attracted much attention in his +native land, which he dearly loved. A deep religious vein pervades the +whole. Attached to the ritual of his own church, he could yet appreciate +the solemn 'hill worship' of the Covenanters. His descriptions of +Scottish scenery are accurate and beautiful. His Sabbath is the Sabbath +of Scotland. All its pictures are drawn from real life. His verse may +seem prosaic at times, but it is melodious as a whole. Nothing can be +more natural or agreeable, in its easy gentle flow. Moreover, it often +sparkles with original turns of thought, and felicitous expressions. + +An interesting anecdote is told of Grahame in connection with the +publication of 'The Sabbath.' He had finished the poem, and sent it to +the press unknown to his wife. When it was issued he brought her a copy, +and requested her to read it. As his name was not prefixed to the work, +she did not dream that he had anything to do with it. As she went on +reading, the sensitive author walked up and down the room. At length she +broke out in praise of the poem, and turning to him said: "Ah! James, if +you could but produce a poem like this." Judge then of her delighted +surprise when told that he was its author. The effect upon her is said +to have been almost overwhelming. + +After describing the solemn and delightful worship of God's house, +particularly the music, ascending in 'a thousand notes symphonious,' he +touchingly adds: + + "Afar they float, + Wafting glad tidings to the sick man's couch: + Raised on his arm, he lists the cadence close, + Yet thinks he hears it still: his heart is cheered; + He smiles on death; but, ah! a wish will rise-- + Would I were now beneath that echoing roof! + No lukewarm accents from my lips would flow; + My heart would sing: and many a Sabbath day + My steps should thither turn; or wandering far + In solitary paths, where wild flowers blow, + Then would I bless his name who led me forth + From death's dark vale, to walk amid those sweets-- + Who gives the bloom of health once more to glow + Upon this cheek, and lights this languid eye." + +His description of the shepherd boy's Sabbath worship among the hills is +a passage of great beauty. + + "It is not only in the sacred fane + That homage should be paid to the Most High; + There is a temple, one not made with hands, + The vaulted firmament. Far in the woods, + Almost beyond the sound of city chime, + At intervals heard through the breezeless air; + When not the limberest leaf is seen to move, + Save when the linnet lights upon the spray + When not a flow'ret bends its little stalk, + Save when a bee alights upon the bloom-- + Then rapt in gratitude, in joy, and love + The man of God will pass his Sabbath noon; + Silence his praise; his disembodied thoughts + Loosed from the load of words, will high ascend + Beyond the empyrean. + Nor yet less pleasing at the heavenly throne, + The Sabbath service of the shepherd boy! + In some lone glen, when every sound is lulled + To slumber, save the tinkling of the rill, + Or bleat of lamb, or hovering falcon's cry, + Stretched on the sward, he reads of Jesse's Son; + Or sheds a tear o'er him to Egypt sold, + And wonders why he weeps: the volume closed, + With thyme sprig laid between the leaves, he sings + The sacred lays, his weekly lesson conned + With meikle care beneath the lowly roof, + Where humble love is learnt, where humble worth + Pines unrewarded by a thankless state. + Thus reading, hymning, all alone, unseen, + The shepherd boy the Sabbath holy keeps, + Till on the heights he marks the straggling bands + Returning homeward from the house of prayer." + +The hill worship of the Covenanters is also described with much beauty +and pathos. + + "With them each day was holy, every hour + They stood prepared to die, a people doomed + To death--old men, and youths, and simple maids. + With them each day was holy; but that morn + On which the angel said, 'See where the Lord + Was laid,' joyous arose--to die that day + Was bliss. Long ere the dawn, by devious ways, + O'er hills, through woods, o'er dreary wastes, they sought + The upland moors, where rivers, there but brooks + Dispart to different seas. Fast by such brooks + A little glen is sometimes scooped, a plat + With greensward gay, and flowers that strangers seem + Amid the heathery wild, that all around + Fatigues the eye: in solitudes like these + Thy persecuted children, Scotia, foiled + A tyrant's and a bigot's bloody laws; + There, leaning on his spear, (one of the array + That in the times of old had scathed the rose + On England's banner, and had powerless struck + The infatuate monarch and his wavering host, + Yet ranged itself to aid his son dethroned,) + The lyart veteran heard the Word of God + By Cameron thundered, or by Renwick poured + In gentle stream: then rose the song, the loud + Acclaim of praise; the wheeling plover ceased + Her plaint; the solitary place was glad. + And on the distant cairns, the watcher's ear + Caught doubtfully at times, the breeze-borne note. + But years more gloomy followed, and no more + The assembled people dared, in face of day, + To worship God, or even at the dead + Of night, save when the wint'ry storm raved fierce, + And thunder peals compelled the men of blood + To crouch within their dens, then dauntlessly + The scattered few would meet, in some deep dell + By rocks o'ercanopied, to hear the voice, + Their faithful pastor's voice: he, by the gleam + Of sheeted lightning, oped the sacred Book, + And words of comfort spoke: over their souls + His accents soothing came--as to her young + The heathfowl's plumes, when at the close of eve + She gathers in her mournful brood, dispersed + By murderous sport, and o'er the remnant spreads + Fondly her wings, close nestling 'neath her breast + They cherished, cower amid the purple blooms." + +This is finely pictured; and, coming from a member of the Episcopal +Church, does honor to his heart and head. Sir Walter Scott has somewhat +injured the memory of the Scottish Covenanters, by presenting the darker +features of their character, and forgetting utterly their earnest piety, +their generous fervor, their heroic endurance. Many of them, doubtless, +were deficient in high-bred courtesy and learned refinement. Others were +narrow-minded and superstitious. But the great mass of them were men of +lofty faith, of generous self-sacrifice. They feared God, and perilled +their lives for freedom, in the high places of the field. "Lately," says +a vigorous writer in Blackwood's Magazine, "the Mighty Warlock of +Caledonia has shed a natural and a supernatural light round the founders +of the Cameronian dynasty; and as his business was to grapple with the +ruder and fiercer portion of their character, the gentle graces of +their nature were not called into action, and the storm and tempest and +thick darkness of John Balfour of Burley, have darkened the whole +breathing congregation of the Cameronians, and turned their sunny +hillside into a dreary desert." It requires men of no ordinary character +to become martyrs for principle, especially when that principle is one +of the highest order, and has been chosen calmly, deliberately, and in +the fear of God. When such men go forth to defend the right, and shed +their life's blood for its enthronement, their's is no vulgar +enthusiasm, no unnatural and infuriate fanaticism. Read the following +from James Hislop, once a poor shepherd boy, and afterwards a +school-teacher, written near the grave of the pious and redoubtable +Cameron, and several of his followers, slain by tyrants in the moor of +Aird's-moss, and say whether such martyrs for truth are worthy of our +reverence! + + "In a dream of the night I was wafted away + To the muirland of mist where the martyrs lay, + Where Cameron's sword and his Bible are seen, + Engraved on the stone where the heather grows green. + + 'Twas a dream of those ages of darkness and blood, + When the minister's home was the mountain and wood; + When in Wellwood's dark valley the standard of Zion, + All bloody and torn 'mong the heather was lying. + + 'Twas morning, and summer's young sun from the east + Lay in loving repose on the green mountain's breast; + On Wardlaw and Cairntable the clear shining dew, + Glistened there 'mong the heath bells and mountain flowers blue. + + And far up in heaven near the white sunny cloud, + The song of the lark was melodious and loud, + And in Glenmuir's wild solitude, lengthened and deep, + Were the whistling of plovers and bleating of sheep. + + And Wellwood's sweet valley breathed music and gladness, + The fresh meadow blooms hung in beauty and redness; + Its daughters were happy to hail the returning, + And drink the delights of July's sweet morning. + + But oh! there were hearts cherished far other feelings, + Illumed by the light of prophetic revealings, + Who drank from the scenery of beauty but sorrow, + For they knew that their blood would bedew it to-morrow. + + 'Twas the few faithful ones, who with Cameron were lying + Concealed 'mong the mist where the heathfowl was flying, + For the horsemen of Earlshall around them were hovering, + And their bridle reins rung through the thin misty covering. + + Their faces grew pale, and their swords were unsheathed, + But the vengeance that darkened their brow was unbreathed; + With eyes turned to heaven, in calm resignation, + They sung their last song to the God of salvation. + + The hills with the deep mournful music were ringing, + The curlew and plover in concert were singing: + But the melody died 'mid derision and laughter, + As the host of ungodly rushed on to the slaughter. + + Though in mist and in darkness and fire they were shrouded, + Yet the souls of the righteous were calm and unclouded, + Their dark eyes flashed lightning, as firm and unbending, + They stood like the rock which the thunder is rending. + + The muskets were flashing, the blue swords were gleaming, + The helmets were cleft, and the red blood was streaming, + The heavens grew dark, and the thunder was rolling, + When in Wellwood's dark muirlands the mighty were falling. + + When the righteous had fallen, and the combat was ended, + A chariot of fire through the dark cloud descended, + Its drivers were angels on horses of whiteness, + And its burning wheels turned on axles of brightness. + + A seraph unfolded its doors bright and shining, + All dazzling like gold of the seventh refining, + And the souls that came forth out of great tribulation + Have mounted the chariot and steeds of salvation. + + On the arch of the rainbow the chariot is gliding, + Through the path of the thunder the horsemen are riding; + Glide swiftly, bright spirits! the prize is before ye, + A crown never fading, a kingdom of glory!" + +But we are forgetting ourselves; and as we propose spending the Sabbath +in a small country hamlet, at some distance, we must be off immediately. +It would be gratifying to return to Perth and hear some of the clergymen +there, Dr. Young especially, who is a preacher of great depth and +energy; but the Sabbath will be sweeter amidst the woods and hills. + +We enter a quiet unfrequented road, skirting around those fine clumps of +trees, and that green hill to the west, and after wandering a few miles, +we pass into a narrow vale, through which a small wooded stream makes +its noiseless way, and adorned on either side with rich green slopes, +clumps of birches, and tufts of flowering broom. As you ascend the vale, +it gradually widens, the acclivities on either side recede to a +considerable distance, and the road, taking a sudden turn, runs over the +hill to the left, and dives into a sort of natural amphitheatre, formed +by the woods and braes around it. On the further side you descry a small +antique-looking church, with two or three huge ash trees, and one or two +silver larches shading it, at one end, a pretty mansion built of +freestone, and handsomely slated, at a little distance at the other. +Approaching, we find a few stragglers, as if in haste, entering the +church door; the bell has ceased tolling, and the service probably is +about to commence. We enter, and find seats near the door. How tenderly +and solemnly that old minister, with his bland look, and silver locks, +reads the eighty-fourth psalm, and how reverently the whole +congregation, with book in hand, follow him to the close. A precentor, +as he is called, sitting in a sort of desk under the pulpit, strikes the +tune, and all, young and old, rich and poor, immediately accompany him. +The minister then offers a prayer, in simple Scripture language, +somewhat long, but solemn and affecting. He then reads another psalm, +which is sung, as the first was, by the whole congregation, and with +such earnest and visible delight, that you feel at once that their +hearts are in the service. The preacher then rises in the pulpit and +reads the twenty-third psalm, as the subject of his exposition, or +lecture, as the Scottish preachers uniformly style their morning's +discourse. His exposition is plain and practical, occasionally rising to +the pathetic and beautiful. Ah, how sweetly he dwells upon the good +Shepherd of the sheep, and how tenderly he depicts the security and +repose of the good man passing through the dark valley and the shadow of +death. His reverend look, the tremulous tones of his voice, his Scottish +accent, and occasionally Scottish phrases, his abundant use of +Scriptural quotations, and a certain Oriental cast of mind, derived, no +doubt, from intimate communion with prophets and apostles, invest his +discourse with a peculiar charm. It is not learned; neither is it +original and profound; but it is _good_, good for the heart--good for +the conscience and the life. Old preachers, like old wine, in our humble +opinion, are by far the best. Their freedom from earthly ambition, their +deep experience of men and things, their profound acquaintance with +their own heart, their evident nearness to heaven, their natural +simplicity and authority, their reverend looks and tremulous tones, all +unite to invest their preaching with a peculiar spiritual interest, such +as seldom attaches to that of young divines. Everything, of course, +depends upon personal character, and a young preacher may be truly +pious, and thus speak with much simplicity and power. But, other things +being equal, old preachers and old physicians, old friends and old +places possess qualities peculiar to themselves. + +After the sermon, prayer is offered, and the whole congregation unite in +a psalm of praise. The interval of worship, it is announced, will be one +hour. A portion of the congregation return to their homes, but most of +them remain. Some repair to a house of refreshment in the neighborhood, +where they regale themselves on the simplest fare, such as bread and +milk, or bread and beer. Others wander off, in parties, to the green +woods or sunny knolls around, and seated on the greensward, eat their +bread and cheese, converse about the sermon, or such topics as happen to +interest them most. The younger people and children are inclined to +ramble, but are not permitted to do so. Yet the little fellows will +romp, '_a very little_,' and occasionally run off, but not so far as to +be beyond call. A large number of the people have gone into the +grave-yard connected with the church. Some are seated on the old flat +tombstones, others on the greensward, dotted all around with the graves +of their fathers. See that group there. The old man, with "lyart +haffets" and broad bonnet, looks like one of the old Covenanters. The +old lady, evidently his wife, wears a sort of hooded cloak, from which +peeps forth a nicely plaited cap of lace, which wonderfully sets off her +demure but agreeable features. These young people around them are +evidently their children and grandchildren. How contented they look, and +how reverently they listen to the old man. Let us draw near, and hear +the conversation. + +"Why, grandfaither," says one of the younger lads, "don't you think the +auld Covenanters were rather sour kind o' bodies?" + +"Sour!" replies the old man, "they had eneuch to mak' them sour. Hunted +from mountain to mountain, like wild beasts, it's nae wonder if they +felt waefu' at times, or that they let human passion gain a moment's +ascendancy. But they were guid men for a' that. They were the chosen o' +God, and wrastled hard against principalities and powers, against the +rulers o' the darkness of this world, against spiritual wickedness in +high places. Reading their lives, I've aften thocht they must ha'e been +kind o' inspired. Like the auld prophets and martyrs, they were very +zealous for the Lord God, and endured, cheerfully, mair distress and +tribulation than we can well imagine." + +"Weel, weel!" says one of the girls, "I wish they had been a wee bit +gentler in their ways, and mair charitable to their enemies." + +"Ah, Nancy," is the quick reply of the old man, "ye ken but little about +it. A fine thing it is for us, sitting here in this peacefu' kirk-yard, +wi' nane to molest us or mak' us afraid, to talk about gentleness and +charity. But the auld Covenanters had to encounter fire and steel. They +wandered over muir and fell, in poverty and sorrow, being destitute, +afflicted, tormented. But oh, my bairns! they loved and served the Lord! +They endured as seeing him who is invisible; and when they cam' to dee, +they rejoiced that they were counted worthy to suffer for his name. Nae +doot, some of them were carnal men, and ithers o' them had great +imperfections. But the maist o' them were unco holy men, men o' prayer, +men o' faith, aye, and men of charity of whom the world was not worthy." + +This answer silences all objections. + +But the bell, from the old church tower, begins to toll. + + "Slowly the throng moves o'er the tomb-paved ground, + The aged man, the bowed down, the blind + Led by the thoughtless boy, and he who breathes + With pain, and eyes the new-made grave, well-pleased, + These, mingled with the young, the gay, approach + The house of God--these, spite of all their ills, + A glow of gladness feel; with silent praise + They enter in; a placid stillness reigns, + Until the man of God, worthy the name, + Opens the book, and reverentially + The stated portion reads." + +The services of the afternoon are much the same as those of the morning, +except that the preacher comments briefly on the portion of Scripture +read at the opening of the service, and delivers a regular discourse, +from a single text. The congregation follow the preacher with evident +attention, and look up in their Bibles, which all have in their hands, +the passages of Scripture cited as proofs and illustrations. This, with +an occasional cough, and a little rustling from the children, are the +only sounds which break the solemn stillness of the scene. + +Dismissed, with a solemn benediction, all take their several ways +homeward. The sun is going down; but its mellow light yet lingers upon +the uplands, and tinges the foliage of the trees with supernal tints. A +sabbath stillness reigns over hill and dale. The very trees appear to +slumber; the birds are silent, except a single thrush, which, in the +deep recesses of that shadowy copsewood, appears to be singing "her hymn +to the evening." A little later, you might hear the voice of psalms from +the low thatched cottage, on the hillside or in the glen. For, in +Scotland, family worship is generally maintained, and singing, in which +the whole family join, always forms a part of the exercises. + + "They chant their artless notes in simple guise; + They tune their hearts, by far the noblest aim; + Perhaps _Dundee's_ wild warbling measures rise, + Or plaintive _Martyrs_, worthy of the name, + Or noble _Elgin_ beets the heavenward flame, + The sweetest far of Scotia's holy lays." + +Wandering thus, through the fields, with Sabbath influences all around +us, it is impossible not to be grateful and devout. A holy calm steals +upon the mind--a heavenly beatitude, akin to that of angels and the +spirits of just men made perfect. + + "Oh Scotland! much I love thy tranquil dales; + But most on Sabbath eve, when low the sun + Slants through the upland copse, 'tis my delight, + Wandering and stopping oft, to hear the song + Of kindred praise arise from humble roofs; + Or when the simple service ends, to hear + The lifted latch, and mark the grey-haired man, + The father and the priest, walk forth alone + Into his garden plat and little field, + To commune with his God in secret prayer-- + To bless the Lord that in his downward years + His children are about him: sweet, meantime + The thrush that sings upon the aged thorn, + Brings to his view the days of youthful years, + When that same aged thorn was but a bush! + Nor is the contrast between youth and age + To him a painful thought; he joys to think + His journey near a close; heaven is his home." + +Thus, in his own simple and charming style, Grahame describes the +Sabbath evening. So beautiful it is, so Sabbath-like, in its spirit and +tone, that we venture one extract more. + + "Now, when the downward sun has left the glens, + Each mountain's rugged lineaments are traced + Upon the adverse slope, where stalks gigantic + The shepherd's shadow, thrown athwart the chasm, + As on the topmost ridge he homeward hies. + How deep the hush! the torrent's channel dry, + Presents a stony steep, the echo's haunt. + But hark, a plaintive sound floating along! + 'Tis from yon heath-roofed shieling; now it dies + Away, now rises full; it is the song + Which He, who listens to the hallelujahs + Of choiring seraphim, delights to hear; + It is the music of the heart, the voice + Of venerable age, of guileless youth, + In kindly circle seated on the ground + Before their wicker door. Behold the man, + The grandsire and the saint; his silvery locks + Beam in the parting ray; before him lies, + Upon the smooth-cropt sward the open book, + His comfort, stay, and ever new delight; + While heedless at his side, the lisping boy + Fondles the lamb that nightly shares his couch." + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + Lochleven--Escape of Queen Mary from Lochleven Castle--Michael + Bruce--Sketch of his Life--Boyhood--College + Life--Poetry--"Lochleven"--Sickness--"Ode to Spring"--Death--"Ode + to the Cuckoo." + + +Pursuing our journey southward, next day finds us on the banks of +Lochleven, distinguished not so much from the beauty of its situation, +as from its poetic and historical associations. It is adorned with four +small islands, the principal of which are St. Serf's Isle near the east +end, so called from its having been the site of a priory dedicated to +St. Serf, and another near the shore on the west side, which immediately +attracts the eye, from its containing the picturesque ruins of Lochleven +Castle, in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was confined, and from which she +made her wonderful escape. Here, also, Patrick Graham, Archbishop of St. +Andrews, and grandson of Robert the Third, was imprisoned, in +consequence of a generous attempt to reform the profligate lives of the +Catholic clergy. In this place he died, and was buried in the monastery +of St. Serf. The keys of the castle, thrown into the lake at the time of +Queen Mary's flight, have recently been found by a young man belonging +to Kinross, and are now in the possession of the Earl of Morton. + +The castle, with its massive tower yet standing, looks dismal enough, +but how much it is beautified by the fine old trees and shrubbery which +encircle it, and the mellow light which mantles its hoary sides! + + "Gothic the pile, and high the solid walls, + With warlike ramparts, and the strong defence + Of jutting battlements: an age's toil! + No more its arches echo to the noise + Of joy and festive mirth. No more the glance + Of blazing taper through its window beams, + And quivers on the undulating wave; + But naked stand the melancholy walls, + Lash'd by the wint'ry tempest, cold and bleak + That whistles mournful through the empty halls + And piecemeal crumble down the towers to dust." + +This description is by Michael Bruce, whose early promise and premature +death have awakened so much sympathy among all classes in Scotland. He +was born in the vicinity of Lochleven, and has written a poem of +considerable merit descriptive of the lake and surrounding scenery. His +"Ode to Spring," and especially his "Ode to the Cuckoo," now universally +acknowledged to be his, are among the most beautiful poems in the +English language. He was born at Kinnesswood, parish of Portmoak, on the +27th of March, 1746. By going round to the north-east bank of the lake, +we shall find this village, insignificant in itself, but sweetly +situated on the south-west declivity of the Lomond hills. Ascending a +narrow lane, we reach, near its centre, the house in which Bruce was +born. It consists of two stories, with a thatched roof. Michael's +parents were very poor, and occupied only the upper part of the house, +which served them at once for a workshop and dwelling. "A true nestling +place of genius," exclaims his biographer, quoting the words of +Washington Irving respecting the birth-place of Shakspeare, "which +delights to hatch its offspring in bye corners." Mean as it is, an +angelic soul has been here, and a charm lingers upon its homely walls. +Dr. Huie of Edinburgh has given the following touching account of a +visit which he paid to this place, in company with one of Bruce's old +friends. "On returning," says he, "from Portmoak church-yard, where +Bruce is buried, I attended my venerable guide to the lowly dwelling +where the parents of the poet resided. We first entered the garden: +'This,' said Mr. B. 'was a spot of much interest to Michael. Here he +used alternately to work and to meditate. There stood a row of trees +which he particularly cherished, but they are now cut down,' added the +good old man, and as he said this, he sighed. 'Here again,' said he, +'was a bank of soft grass on which Michael was accustomed to recline +after he became too weak to walk; and here his father would sit beside +him in the evening, and read to amuse him.' We next entered the house. I +experienced an involuntary feeling of awe when I found myself in the +humble abode, where neglected worth and talents had pined away and died. +The little square windows cast but a feeble light over the apartment, +and the sombre shades of evening, for the sun had now set, were +strikingly in unison with the scene. 'There,' said my conductor, 'auld +Saunders used to sit at his loom. In that corner stood the bed where the +auld couple slept, in this the bed which was occupied by Michael, and in +which he died,' The good old man's eyes filled as he spoke. I found it +necessary to wipe my own. I was not ashamed of my tears. They were a +tribute to departed genius, and there was nothing unmanly in their +flow." + +Saunders Bruce, as he was called, the father of Michael, had eight +children, and as the business of weaving has always been a poor one in +Scotland, it was with extreme difficulty that he was enabled to give +Michael a suitable education, though early perceiving in him the seeds +of genius. Saunders was a pious thoughtful man, universally respected, +and a sort of village chronicle. He is supposed to be referred to in the +poem of Lochleven, in the lines commencing,-- + + "I knew an aged swain whose hoary head + Was bent with years, the village chronicle," etc. + +Of his mother we have no means of forming a judgment, and suspect that +her character was not particularly marked. It is his father to whom +Michael himself, and the friends that knew him, chiefly refer in +connection with his early studies and pursuits. Some indeed have +intimated that the stern orthodoxy of the old man was called into +requisition to repress the youthful aspirings of his son, particularly +in the matter of books, but of this not the slightest evidence can be +adduced. + +He succeeded in procuring copies of Shakspeare, Pope, Milton, Fontenelle +and Young, all of which he devoured with avidity and delight. The +Scriptures he read at home and at school, and thus became familiar with +the magnificent images and thrilling conceptions of oriental +inspiration. + +Michael was a great favorite at school, and made rapid progress in his +studies. But he was frequently called away from school, partly by +sickness, to which he was subject at an early age, and partly by his +fathers straitened circumstances. On this latter account he was employed +for a time as a shepherd, on the Lomond hills, which rise in verdant +beauty behind his native village. This, however, was rather a benefit +than an injury to his mind as well as body. His poem of "Lochleven" is +made up of reminiscences of the romantic scenes with which at that time +he became familiar:-- + + "Where he could trace the cowslip-covered bank + Of Leven, and the landscape measure round." + +"The late proprietor of the upper Kinneston, a small estate upon the +south-west declivity of the Lomond hills, used to relate with much +feeling, the amusing stories told him, and the strange questions put to +him by Michael when herding his father's cattle, and how he would offer +his services to carry the boys' meals to the hill, for the sake of +having half an hour's conversation with this interesting youth."[158] +While his progress in learning was much interrupted in this way, his +mind was advancing, nevertheless, by communion with nature and his own +individual heart. Besides, his frequent absence from school was +compensated by the prosecution of his studies on the hillside, or by his +father's ingle, so that when he returned to school, it took him but a +few days to reach the top of his class. Though modest, and even shy, he +had great influence with his school-fellows. Somehow they regarded him +as a sort of superior being, and his word among them was law. This, +doubtless, arose from the originality of his character, which developed +itself at a very early age. + +[Footnote 158: Memoir of Bruce, by Dr. Mackelvie, to which I am chiefly +indebted for the facts of which the accompanying sketch is composed.] + + "Silent when glad, affectionate though shy, + And now his look was most demurely sad, + And now he laughed aloud, and none knew why, + And neighbors stared and sighed, and bless'd the lad; + Some deemed him wondrous wise, and some believed him mad." + + BEATTIE'S MINSTREL. + +The same deference, it is said, was paid him at home. Indeed, he was the +pet of the family, and all vied to make Michael comfortable and happy, a +homage to genius and worth infinitely more precious than the plaudits of +the world. + +While attending school, he formed some interesting friendships, +particularly with William Arnot, a peculiarly amiable young man, who +died in early life, and to whom Bruce makes a touching reference in +"Lochleven." Through the son he became acquainted with the father, a +wise and liberal man, who greatly assisted Michael in his studies, and +gave him the free use of his library. It is to him the following +description refers. + + "How blest the man, who, in these peaceful plains, + Ploughs his paternal field; far from the noise, + The care and bustle of a busy world! + All in the sacred, sweet, sequestered vale + Of solitude, the secret primrose path + Of rural life he dwells; and with him dwells + Peace and content, twins of the sylvan shade, + And all the graces of the golden age. + Such is Agricola, the wise, the good; + By nature formed for the calm retreat, + The silent path of life. Learned, but not fraught + With self-importance, as the starched fool + Who challenges respect by solemn face, + By studied accent, and high-sounding phrase, + Enamored of the shade, but not morose, + Politeness, raised in courts by frigid rules + With him spontaneous grows. Not books alone, + But man his study, and the better part; + To tread the ways of virtue, and to act + The various scenes of life with God's applause. + Deep in the bottom of the flowery vale, + With blooming sallows, and the leafy twine + Of verdant alders fenced, his dwelling stands + Complete in rural elegance. The door + By which the poor or pilgrim never passed + Still open, speaks the master's bounteous heart. + Then, O how sweet! amid the fragrant shrubs, + At evening cool to sit; while, on their boughs + The nested songsters twitter o'er their young; + And the hoarse low of folded cattle breaks + The silence, wafted o'er the sleeping lakes, + Whose waters glow beneath the purple tinge + Of western cloud; while converse sweet deceives + The stealing foot of time!" + +He found an opportunity of acquiring the Latin language and preparing +for college, with a Mr. Dun, who, for the sake of his son, formed a +class of boys, of which Michael was decidedly the best scholar, as all +acknowledged. + +But he was of a slender make, and gave early indications of pulmonary +consumption. In his personal appearance he is said to have resembled +Shelley; having yellowish curling hair, a long neck and narrow chest, +skin white and shining, and his cheeks "tinged with red rather than +ruddy." He was "early smitten with the love of song," and began +occasionally to write verses. Possessed of a fine musical ear, he was +impatient to get hold of all sorts of old ballads and songs; and while +the other children of the village or school were amusing themselves with +play, or spending their money on trash, he was poring with delighted +eyes over "Chevy Chase," or "The Flowers of the Forest." When he had +made himself familiar with the music and sentiments of these ballads, he +would endeavor "to supply his lack of novelty with verses of his own." +It is in this way, probably, that his fine ballad of "Sir James the +Ross," and some of his pastorals originated. + +After he had left school, and saw no way of pursuing his studies, a +relative left him the sum of two hundred merks Scots, about sixty +dollars, when it was resolved forthwith that Michael should repair to +Edinburgh University. Mr. Arnot encouraged him in this enterprise, and +promised some assistance, in the shape of provisions and so forth. +Accordingly he set out for the metropolis, and entered college. But he +was often subjected to severe privations. Some of his fellow students +who suspected his poverty were willing to share their meals with him, +but he could not bear the thought of being fed out of pity, and whenever +he imagined the invitation to proceed from this feeling he uniformly +declined it. He was high-spirited; and yet he was truly pious. Indeed, +he had devoted himself to Heaven in his boyhood, and never swerved from +the high principles of Christian integrity. + +At college Bruce became acquainted with several young men who +subsequently acquired distinction. Dr. Lawson and the Rev. John Logan +were his fellow students and warmly attached friends. His relations with +Logan subsequently became involved, much to the discredit of the latter, +who is suspected of having dealt ungenerously with his friend's poems, +which, after the death of Bruce, were committed to his care. He is +charged particularly with purloining the "Ode to the Cuckoo," and +publishing it as his own. Logan was a singular man--an orator of a high +order, an accomplished scholar, and an elegant poet. Some of his poems, +particularly his "Visit to the Country in Autumn," "The Braes of +Yarrow," "The Lament of Nature," and other odes and hymns, are beautiful +and finished productions. Some of his discourses, preached at Leith, +though not profound, are eloquent and effective. But he was imperfectly +imbued with the high principles which he endeavored to recommend to +others, and he has greatly tarnished his fair fame by the use which he +is supposed to have made of the labors of Bruce. It is probable, +however, that the "Ode to the Cuckoo" was only drafted by Bruce, and +subsequently polished into its present state of perfection by the +classic pen of Logan. + +The companion to whom, of all others, Bruce became the most attached at +college, was Mr. William Dryburgh, from Dysart. Like Bruce, he was +possessed of piety and genius, and like him, too, suffered from +pulmonary disease, and died in early life. Both had a presentiment that +they were destined to a premature grave. And this, with their bright +hope of a blessed immortality, was the frequent subject of their +conversations. Dryburgh died in his eighteenth year, and Bruce followed +him in less than a year after. How keenly he felt this separation may be +gathered from the following letter to a friend, written on receiving the +intelligence of Dryburgh's death:-- + +"I have not many friends, but I love them well. Death has been among the +few I have. Poor Dryburgh!--but he is happy. I expected to have been his +companion through life, and that we should have stepped into the grave +together; but Heaven has seen meet to dispose of him otherwise. What +think you of this world? I think it very little worth. You and I have +not a great deal to make us fond of it; and yet I would not exchange my +condition with any unfeeling fool in the universe, if I were to have his +dull hard heart into the bargain. Farewell, my rival in immortal hope! +My companion, I trust, for eternity! Though far distant, I take thee to +my heart; souls suffer no separation from the obstruction of matter, or +distance of place. Oceans may roll between us, and climates interpose in +vain--the whole material creation is no bar to the winged mind. +Farewell! through boundless ages, fare thee well! May'st thou shine when +the sun is darkened. May'st thou live and triumph when time expires! It +is at least possible that we meet no more in this foreign land, in this +gloomy apartment of the universe of God. But there is a better world in +which we may meet to part no more. Adieu." + +But the grief of a true poet embodies itself in verse. The following +lines, on the death of Dryburgh, were found among Bruce's papers. + + Alas! we fondly thought that heaven designed + His bright example mankind to improve; + All they should be was pictured in his mind, + His thoughts were virtue, and his heart was love. + + Calm as the summer sun's unruffled face, + He looked unmoved on life's precarious game, + And smiled at mortals toiling in the chase + Of empty phantoms, opulence and fame. + + Steady he followed virtue's onward path, + Inflexible to error's devious way, + And firm at last, in hope and fixed faith + Through death's dark vale he trod without dismay. + + Whence then these sighs? And whence this falling tear + In sad remembrance of his merit just? + Still must I mourn! for he to me was dear + And still is dear, though buried in the dust. + +Bruce's father made great efforts, by means of saving and borrowing, to +assist his son during his college course, and Mr. Arnot continued to +send him occasional supplies from his farm and dairy. But he was sadly +straitened in the matter of books. The following letter upon this +subject is characteristic and striking. + +"Edinburgh, Nov. 27, 1764.--I daily meet with proofs that money is a +necessary evil. When in an auction, I often say to myself, how happy +should I be if I had money to purchase such a book! How well should my +library be furnished, 'nisi obstat res angusta domi,' + + 'My lot forbids, nor circumscribes alone + My growing virtues, but my crimes confines.' + +Whether any virtues would have accompanied me in a more elevated station +is uncertain, but that a number of vices of which my sphere is +incapable, would have been its attendants, is unquestionable. The +Supreme Wisdom has seen this meet, and the Supreme Wisdom cannot err." + +The annual session in the colleges of Scotland lasts only from six to +eight months, and thus leaves considerable time for relaxation and +private study, or for other occupations necessary to recruit the +students' exhausted finances. At the end of each of these terms, Michael +returned home, much exhausted by his application to study. His system, +however, soon recovered its wonted energy in the congenial scenes of his +boyhood, and the kind attentions of the proprietor of Portmoak. Still he +was seldom in perfect health, and often complained of headache and +depression of spirits. Most of his time during the summer months, the +season of vacation, was spent either in reading or in writing poetry. + +During his last session at College, Michael accepted a proposal to teach +a small school at Gairney Bridge, which lies on a small stream running +into Lochleven. He finished his collegiate studies honorably, having +distinguished himself chiefly in _rhetoric_ and _belles lettres_. At +Gairney Bridge he had some thirty or forty pupils under his care, whom +he governed entirely without the rod, then pretty thoroughly used in +Scotland. But the compensation was a mere trifle, not exceeding more +than sixty or seventy dollars a year. + +It was in this place that he wrote several of his poems, and became +deeply attached to a beautiful young woman in the neighborhood, to whom, +however, he never declared his passion. + +About this time he joined the church in Kinross, under the pastoral care +of the Rev. Mr. Swanston, recently appointed professor of Theology in +the United Secession Church. This learned and amiable man conceived a +strong attachment for Michael, and ever treated him with the greatest +consideration and kindness. Subsequently he engaged to teach a school at +Forest Mill, a dreary sort of place, with miserable school +accommodations. His health too, was declining. While fording the Devon +on horseback, the horse stumbled and immersed him in the stream, a +circumstance which greatly aggravated his consumptive tendency. Moreover +he was disappointed in his school, and his health and spirits rapidly +declined. In a letter to Mr. Arnot, he says, "I expected to be happy +here, but I am not. The easiest part of my life is past. I sometimes +compare my condition with that of others, and imagine if I was in theirs +it would be well. But is not everybody thus! Perhaps he whom I envy +thinks he would be glad to change with me, and yet neither would be +better for the change. Since it is so, let us, my friend, moderate our +hopes and fears, resign ourselves to the will of Him who doeth all +things well, and who hath assured us that he careth for us. + + 'Si res sola potest facere et servare beatum + Hoc primus repetas opus, hoc postremus omittas.' + +"Things are not very well in the world, but they are pretty well. They +might have been worse, and such as they are may please us who have but a +few short days to use them. This scene of affairs, though a very +perplexed, is a very short one, and in a little while all will be +cleared up. Let us endeavor to please God, our fellow creatures and +ourselves. In such a course of life we shall be as happy as we can +expect in such a world as this. Thus you, who cultivate your farm with +your own hands, and I who teach a dozen blockheads for bread, may be +happier than he, who having more than he can use, tortures his brain to +invent some new methods of killing himself with the superfluity." In +this letter, worthy of Cowper or of Foster, we see a brave spirit +struggling with the direst misfortunes, poverty and disease, and +overcoming both by the silent might of a believing spirit. + +Another thing which greatly afflicted Bruce at Forest Mill, was the +total want of agreeable scenery, and it was only by an effort of memory +and imagination that he could, in some measure make up this deficiency, +by recalling the delightful scenery of his early home. To this +combination of unfavorable circumstances he touchingly refers in the +poem of Lochleven, which was actually produced under their influence, as +a means of relaxation and enjoyment. + + "Thus sang the youth amid unfertile wilds, + And nameless deserts, unpoetic ground! + Far from his friends he strayed, recording thus + The dear remembrance of his native fields, + To cheer the tedious night, while slow disease + Preyed on his pining vitals, and the blasts + Of dark December shook his humble cot." + +"Lochleven" is his longest, and in most respects, his most beautiful +poem. It has defects, obvious enough to a critical eye, but its general +excellence strikes every reader. Its descriptions and delineations are +natural and striking, its imagery is simple and poetical, and its +measure sweet and melodious. Nearly the whole of it has been "used up," +in beautiful extracts by different writers of distinction. + +But the composition of this poem seems to have been too much for Bruce's +shattered frame; for he was compelled almost immediately to relinquish +his school. He had just strength to walk home to Kinnesswood, a +distance of nearly twenty miles, resting only a short time at Turf-hills +on the way. Though nowhere on earth could he be happier than in the +humble cottage of his parents, it was yet the worst place in the world +for his disease. "The vapors rising from the lake," says his biographer, +"particularly in spring, keep the atmosphere constantly in a state of +moisture, whilst in the mornings and evenings the eastern haars, as the +fogs which come up from the sea are called by the inhabitants, come +rolling down the hills, and hang suspended over Kinnesswood like a +dripping curtain." + +He had expected, in the quiet of his father's home and in the vicinity +of his dear Lochleven, a restoration of health; but in this hope he was +disappointed. The mark of death was upon him. The heart of the beauteous +tree was poisoned by disease, and all its leaves faded and fell to the +ground. It was under the consciousness of this fact, that he wrote his +beautiful and affecting "Ode to Spring," which he sent to a dear friend +to apprise him of his approaching dissolution. The following are its +concluding stanzas. + + Now spring returns: but not to me returns + The vernal joy my better years have known; + Dim in my breast, life's dying taper burns, + And all the joys of life with health are flown. + + Starting and shivering in the inconstant wind, + Meagre and pale, the ghost of what I was, + Beneath some blasted tree I lie reclined, + And count the silent moments as they pass: + + The winged moments, whose unstaying speed + No art can stop, or in their course arrest; + Whose flight shall shortly count me with the dead, + And lay me down in peace with them at rest. + + Oft morning dreams presage approaching fate; + And morning dreams, as poets tell, are true; + Led by pale ghosts, I enter Death's dark gate, + And bid the realms of light and life adieu. + + I hear the helpless wail, the shriek of wo; + I see the muddy wave, the dreary shore, + The sluggish streams that slowly sleep below, + Which mortals visit, and return no more. + + Farewell, ye blooming fields! ye cheerful plains! + Enough for me the church-yard's lonely mound, + Where melancholy with still silence reigns, + And the rank grass waves o'er the cheerless ground. + + There let me wander at the shut of eve, + When sleep sits dewy on the laborer's eyes; + The world and all its busy follies leave, + And talk with Wisdom where my Daphne lies. + + There let me sleep, forgotten in the clay, + When death shall shut these weary, aching eyes; + Rest in the hopes of an eternal day, + Till the long night is gone, and the last morn arise. + +He intimated his approaching death to another friend, in prose, as +affecting as his poetry, and if possible, more instructive. + +"A few mornings ago, as I was taking a walk on an eminence which +commands a view of the Forth, with the vessels sailing along, I sat +down, and taking out my Latin Bible, opened by accident, at a place in +the Book of Job, chap, ix: 23, 'Now my days are passed away as the swift +ships.' Shutting the book, I fell a musing on this affecting +comparison. Whether the following happened to me in a dream or waking +reverie I cannot tell, but I fancied myself on the bank of a river or +sea, the opposite side of which was hid from view, being involved in +clouds of mist. On the shore stood a multitude, which no man could +number, waiting for passage. I saw a great many ships taking in +passengers, and several persons going about in the garb of pilots, +offering their service. Being ignorant, and curious to know what all +these things meant, I applied to a grave old man who stood by giving +instructions to the departing passengers. His name, I remember, was the +GENIUS OF HUMAN LIFE. 'My son,' said he, 'you stand on the banks of the +stream of TIME. All these people are bound for ETERNITY, that +undiscovered country whence no traveller ever returns. The country is +very large, and divided into two parts, the one is called the _Land of +Glory_, the other the _Kingdom of Darkness_. The names of those in the +garb of pilots, are _Religion_, _Virtue_, _Pleasure_. They who are so +wise as to choose Religion for their guide, have a safe, though +frequently a rough passage; they are at last landed in the happy climes +where sorrow and sighing forever flee away. They have likewise a +secondary director, _Virtue_; but there is a spurious Virtue, who +pretends to govern by himself; but the wretches who trust to him, as +well as those who have Pleasure for their pilot, are either shipwrecked +or are cast away on the Kingdom of Darkness. _But the vessel in which +you must embark, approaches, and you must be gone._ Remember what +depends upon your conduct.' No sooner had he left me, than I found +myself surrounded by those pilots I mentioned before. Immediately I +forgot all that the old man said to me, and seduced by the fair promises +of Pleasure, chose him for my director. We weighed anchor with a fair +gale, the sky serene, the sea calm. Innumerable little isles lifted +their green heads around us, covered with trees in full blossom; +dissolved in stupid mirth, we were carried on regardless of the past, of +the future unmindful. On a sudden the sky was darkened, the winds +roared, the seas raged; red rose the sand from the bottom of the deep. +The angel of the waters lifted up his voice. At that instant, a strong +ship passed by; I saw Religion at the helm. 'Come out from among these,' +he cried. I and a few others threw ourselves out into his ship. The +wretches we left were now tossed on the swelling deep. The waters on +every side poured, through the riven vessel. They cursed the Lord; when +lo! a fiend rose from the deep, and in a voice like distant thunder, +thus spoke:--'I am Abaddon, the first-born of death;--ye are my prey. +Open thou abyss to receive them!' As he thus spoke they sunk, and the +waves closed over their heads. The storm was turned into a calm, and we +heard a voice saying, 'Fear not, I am with you. When you pass through +the waters they shall not overflow you.' Our hearts were filled with +joy. I was engaged in discourse with one of my new companions, when one +from the top of the mast cried out, 'Courage, my friends, I see the +fair haven, the land that is yet afar off.' Looking up, I found it was a +certain friend, who had mounted up for the benefit of contemplating the +country before him. Upon seeing _you_, (the friend to whom he was +writing,) I was so affected that I started and awaked. Farewell, my +friend,--Farewell!" + +See that fragile form, then, with the glowing spirit within, panting for +freedom and its "native skies," borne along in the vessel of Religion, +upon a calm and sunny sea. He looks aloft, and anticipates with serene +and joyful trust, his entrance into the port of everlasting peace. The +vessel glides, with increasing velocity, her sails all set, and gleaming +in the reflected radiance of the spirit-world. Now she enters the port, +and nears that blessed shore, + + "Where tempests never beat, nor billows roar." + +The few days which remained to Michael on earth, he spent in correcting +his poem of the "Last Judgment," and in pluming his spirit for its +upward flight. His bodily strength was exhausted, and he was obliged to +keep his bed. His mind was meditative and hopeful, dwelling almost +wholly upon various passages of Holy Writ, which he would repeat and +comment upon to his friends. + +Mr. George Lawson, afterwards Dr. Lawson, professor of theology in the +"Secession Church," being called to preach for a settlement in the +neighborhood of Kinnesswood, hastened upon his arrival there, to see his +friend Bruce. He found him in bed, with his countenance pale as death, +while his eyes shone like lamps in a sepulchre. The poet was delighted +to see him, and spoke with as much ease and freedom as if he had been in +perfect health. Mr. Lawson remarked to him that he was glad to see him +so cheerful. "And why," said he, "should not a man be cheerful on the +verge of heaven?" "But," said Mr. L., "you look so emaciated. I am +afraid you cannot last long." "You remind me," he replied, "of the story +of the Irishman, who was told that his hovel was about to fall, and I +answer with him, _Let it fall, it is not mine!_" + +This cheerfulness continued during his illness, till his mother, one +morning, announced to him, just as he was awaking out of sleep, that Mr. +Swanston was dead. He looked at her with a fixed stare, as if stunned by +the intelligence. Upon recovering he satisfied himself as to the +correctness of the statement, and was never afterwards seen to smile! +Still we do not attach much importance to this circumstance; for it +often happens that when the countenance is cold and ghastly, the heart +within is warm and serene. He lingered for a month, manifesting little +interest in what was said or done around him, and on the 5th of July, +calmly and imperceptibly fell asleep, aged twenty-one years and three +months. + + So fades a summer cloud away, + So sinks the gale when storms are o'er, + So gently shuts the eye of day, + So fades a wave along the shore. + + Life's labor done, as sinks the clay, + Light from its load the spirit flies, + While heaven and earth combine to say, + How bless'd the Christian when he dies! + +His Bible was found upon his pillow, marked down at Jer. xxii: 10, "Weep +ye not for the dead, neither bemoan him;" and on the blank leaf this +homely but expressive verse was written:-- + + "'Tis very vain for me to boast, + How small a price my Bible cost; + The day of judgment will make clear, + 'Twas very cheap or very dear." + +He was buried in the church-yard of Portmoak, in the very centre of the +scenes hallowed and beautified by his muse. A monument has been erected +to Bruce through the subscription of his friends, of which the following +is the simple but appropriate inscription: + + MICHAEL BRUCE, + Born in 1747 at Kinnesswood, + In the County of Kinross, + Died at the age of twenty-one. + In this brief space, + Under the pressure of indigence and sickness, + He displayed talents truly + Poetical. + For his aged mother's and his own support + He taught a school here. + The village was then skirted with old ash trees, + The cottage in which he dwelt + Was distinguished by a honeysuckle + Which he had trained round its + Lashed window. + Certain inhabitants of his native county, + His admirers, + Have erected this stone + To mark the abode + Of + Genius and Virtue. + +Bruce was designed for the service of the church. In this view, as well +as with reference to the cultivation of his fine poetical talents, his +death may be deemed a calamity. And yet, such a view of the case may +fairly be questioned. For himself, is he not happier, in the bosom of +his God; and for us, does he not, by means of his Christian life, his +heroic death, his ethereal strains, embalmed in blessed memories of the +past, preach more effectually than he could have done, even had he lived +to occupy a material pulpit. "Being dead he yet speaketh," and speaketh +with a power and pathos which can be reached only by the dead. + +Had we room we might give many pleasant extracts from his poetry; but we +must content ourselves with his "Ode to the Cuckoo," in our judgment one +of the most beautiful and perfect little poems in any language. + + TO THE CUCKOO. + + Hail, beauteous stranger of the grove! + Thou messenger of Spring! + Now heaven repairs thy rural seat, + And woods thy welcome sing. + + What time the daisy decks the green, + Thy certain voice we hear; + Hast thou a star to guide thy path, + Or mark the rolling year? + + Delightful visitant! with thee, + I hail the time of flowers, + And hear the sound of music sweet, + From birds among the bowers. + + The schoolboy wandering through the wood, + To pull the primrose gay, + Starts the new voice of spring to hear,[159] + And imitates thy lay. + + What time the pea puts on the bloom, + Thou fliest thy local vale, + Another guest in other lands, + Another spring to hail. + + Sweet bird! thy bower is ever green, + Thy sky is ever clear; + Thou hast no sorrow in thy song, + No winter in thy year! + + O could I fly, I'd fly with thee! + We'd make, with joyful wing, + Our annual visit o'er the globe, + Companions of the spring. + +[Footnote 159: In his own copy Bruce had written, "Starts thy curious +voice to hear;" _curious_ is a Scotticism, being equivalent to +_strange_. This Logan probably altered to save the quantity. But the +original expression is preferred by good judges, as more natural and +poetical. "It marks the unusual resemblance of the note of the cuckoo to +the human _voice_ the cause of the _start_ and _imitation_ which +follow."] + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + Dunfermline--Ruins of the Abbey--Grave of Robert Bruce--Malcolm + Canmore's Palace--William Henryson, the poet--William + Dunbar--Stirling Castle--Views from its Summit--City of + Stirling--George Buchanan and Dr. Arthur + Johnston--Falkirk--Linlithgow--Story of the Capture of Linlithgow + Castle--Spirit of War--Arrival in Edinburgh. + + +Bidding adieu to Lochleven, we journey slowly through a pleasant and +highly cultivated region, till we reach the ancient town of Dunfermline, +in which some of the old Scottish kings formerly held court, and which +is yet adorned with the remains of a magnificent abbey. Robert Bruce was +interred here, in complete armor, and much interest was excited, a few +years ago, by the discovery of his skeleton. In the vicinity are the +ruins of Malcolm Canmore's palace and stronghold, standing on the edge +of a deep romantic glen, in which, more than three hundred years ago, +the poet Henryson, a schoolmaster in Dunfermline, was wont to wander, +singing his beautiful lays, in the quaint and difficult dialect of +former times. + + "In myddis of June, that jolly sweet sessoun, + Quhen that fair Phoebus, with his beamis brycht, + Had dryit up the clew fra daill and doun, + And all the land made with his lemys lycht; + In a morning betwene mid-day and nycht, + I raiss and put all sluith and sleep on syde; + Ontill a wod I went allone, but gyd. (glad?) + + Sueit was the smell of flowris quhyt and reid, + The noyis of birdis rycht delitious; + The bewis brod blumyt abune my heid; + The grund gowand with grassis gratious + Of all pleasans that place was plenteous, + With sueit odours and birdis armonie; + The mornyng mild my mirth was mair forthy. + +Henryson was contemporary with William Dunbar, a poet, says Sir Walter +Scott, unrivalled by any that Scotland has ever produced. He flourished +at the court of James IV. His poems are of all sorts, allegorical, moral +and comic. The following lines on the brevity of human existence are a +fair specimen of his style. + + This wavering warld's wretchedness, + The failing and fruitless business, + The misspent time, the service vain, + For to consider is ane pain. + + The sliding joy, the gladness short, + The perjured love, the false comfort, + The seveir abade (delay), the slightful train (snare), + For to consider is ane pain. + + The sugared mouths, with minds therefra, + The figured speech, with faces tway; + The pleasing tongues, with hearts unplain, + For to consider is ane pain. + +In another poem he takes a more cheerful view of life. + + Be merry, man, and tak' not sair in mind + The wavering of this wretched world of sorrow; + To God be humble, to thy friend be kind, + And with thy neighbors gladly lend and borrow, + His chance to-night, it may be thine to-morrow, &c. + +From Dunfermline, we cross the country in the direction of Stirling, +and of course linger to view the famous battle-ground of Bannockburn, +immortalized by the prowess of Scotland, and the poetry of Burns. + +But we approach Stirling Castle, one of the oldest and most imposing +strongholds in the country. How often have these old rocks rung again, +"with blast of bugle free;" and how frequently has the ground at its +base been soaked with human blood! The castle stands on a huge ledge of +basaltic rock, rising rapidly from the plain, and overlooking the +country far and near, and backed by the rising ground on which the city +is built. Ascending to the summit we pass round it, by a narrow pathway +cut in the sides of the mountain, and thence enjoy the most extensive +and delightful views. How charmingly the Links of the Forth, as the +serpentine windings of the river are called, adorn the rich vale, in +which they love to linger, as if loth to depart. To the north and east +are the Ochil hills, "vestured" in blue, and looking down upon fertile +fields, umbrageous woods, and stately mansions. On the west lies the +vale of Menteith, and far off the Highland mountains, lost in the mist. +On another side are the pastoral hills of Campsie, and underneath our +eye the town of Stirling, the Abbey Craig, and the ruins of +Cambuskenneth Abbey. The Forth, with "isles of emerald," and white sails +skimming its glassy surface, expands into the German Ocean; and +Edinburgh Castle, just descried amid the haze, crowns the distant +landscape. Stirling was a favorite residence of the Stuarts; but the +castle is now employed only as a barracks for soldiery. + +Leaving the castle we pass into the city, by High Street, adorned with +several palaces of the old nobility, antique-looking edifices, of a +solid structure. Here was the palace of the Regent, Earl of Mar, whose +descendants were the keepers of Stirling Castle. Here too was the palace +of Sir William Alexander, "the philosophical poet" of the court of James +the Sixth, and tutor to Charles the First, who created him Earl of +Stirling. But an object of still greater interest is the tower where +George Buchanan, the historian of Scotland, and one of the first +scholars of his age, lived and wrote. He was tutor to James the Sixth of +Scotland, and First of England. He wrote a paraphrase of the Psalms in +elegant Latin verse, of which he was a perfect master. Most of this work +was composed in a monastery in Portugal, to which he had been confined +by the Inquisition about the year 1550. It was continued in France, and +finished in Scotland. His prose works, particularly his history of +Scotland, are characterized by clearness and research. His celebrated +contemporary, Dr. Arthur Johnston, was equally distinguished for the +variety of his attainments, and his perfect command of the Latin tongue; +so that the one has been called the Scottish Virgil, and the other the +Scottish Ovid. The Latin version of the Psalms by Buchanan is still used +in some of the Scottish schools. It is elegant and faithful, but +somewhat formal and paraphrastic. + +There are many objects of interest in Stirling, and the scenery around +is rich and beautiful, and, moreover, associated in every part, with +recollections of the olden time; but we cannot linger here. The +stage-coach is waiting to take us to Falkirk, a town of great antiquity, +having been the site of one of those military stations on the wall made +by the Romans at their invasion of the country, known by the name of the +Forts of Agricola. It was also the scene of one or two famous battles in +the days of Wallace and Bruce. Being the principal town in the midst of +a rich agricultural country, it is now the scene of immense fairs or +_trysts_, as they are called, to which large droves of Highland cattle +are brought annually for sale, and where an immense amount of business +is transacted. But there is nothing here of sufficient interest to +detain us; so we proceed in the rail-cars to Edinburgh. In passing, we +get a glimpse of the castle and palace of Linlithgow; in the twefth +century one of the most important burghs in Scotland, the residence of +several of the kings of Scotland, and the birth-place of Queen Mary. + + "Of all the palaces so fair + Built for the royal dwelling + In Scotland, far beyond compare + Linlithgow is excelling. + And in its park, in genial June, + How sweet the merry linnet's tune, + How blythe the blackbird's lay, + The wild buck bells from thorny brake + The coot dives merry on the lake, + The saddest heart might pleasure take + To see a scene so gay."--_Marmion._ + +When Robert Bruce was lying in Torwood Castle, not far from Falkirk, a +man by the name of Binnoch, a farmer in the neighborhood, who supplied +the garrison at Linlithgow, then in possession of the English king, +proposed to Bruce to take possession of the garrison by a stratagem, +which he accomplished. This incident has been wrought into a lively form +by Wilson, not Professor Wilson, but John Mackie Wilson, author of the +Border Tales, of whom I shall have something to say by and by. The +following is his account of the matter, somewhat condensed. + +Having been introduced to Bruce at Torwood, Binnoch intimated that he +had something of great importance to communicate, and inquired whether +he might speak with confidence. Being assured that he might, he +proceeded thus: + +"Aweel sir, the business I cam' upon is just this. I supply the +garrison, ye see sir, o' Lithgow wi' hay; now I've observed that they're +a' wheen idle, careless fellows, mair ta'en up wi' their play than their +duty." + +Bruce's eye here kindled with a sudden fire, and his whole countenance +became animated with an expression of fierce eagerness that strongly +contrasted with its former placidity. He was now all attention to the +communication of his humble visitor. + +"What! the castle of Linlithgow, friend!" exclaimed Bruce, with a slight +smile of mingled surprise and incredulity. "_You_ take the castle of +Linlithgow! Pray, my good fellow, how would you propose to do that?" + +"Why sir, by a very simple process," replied Binnoch, undauntedly, "I +wad put a dizen or fifteen stout weel armed, resolute fellows, in my +cart, cover them owre wi' hay, and introduce them into the garrison as a +load o' provender. If they were ance in, an' the cheils were themselves +of the richt stuff, I'll wad my head to a pease bannock that the +castle's ours in fifteen minutes." + +"And would you undertake to do this, my good friend?" said Bruce, +gravely, struck with the idea, and impressed with its practicability. + +"Readily, and wi' a richt guid will, sir," replied Binnoch, "provided ye +fin' me the men; but they maun be the very wale o' your flock; its no a +job for faint hearts or nerveless arms." + +"The men ye shall have, my brave fellow; and if ye succeed your country +will be indebted to you. But it is a perilous undertaking; there will be +hard fighting, and ye may lose your head by it. Have you thought of +that?" + +"I have, sir," replied Binnoch, firmly. "As to the fechtin', we are like +to gie them as guid as we get. And for the hangin', the Scotsman is no +deservin' o' the name that's no ready to brave death, in any form, for +his country." + +Bruce caught the enthusiasm of the speaker; a tear started into his eye, +and seizing the hand of the humble patriot-- + +"My noble fellow," he said, "would to God all Scotsmen were like thee. +Beneath that homely plaid of thine there beats a heart of which any +knight in Christendom might be proud. Lose or win, this shall not be +forgotten." + +Having made the necessary arrangements, and agreed upon a sign, for +communicating with each other, Binnoch took his departure from the +castle of Torwood. + +The next day the men selected by Bruce were at Binnoch's house, having +been admitted through the preconcerted signal. They repaired to the +barn, and were snugly packed away in the hay cart, armed with steel caps +and short swords. Everything being in readiness, Binnoch hid a sword +amongst the hay, for his own use, and in such a situation that he could +easily seize it when wanted. He also provided himself with a poniard, +which he concealed beneath his waistcoat. Thus prepared at all points, +the intrepid peasant set forward with his load of daring hearts, and +having arrived at the castle, he and his cart were immediately admitted. +They proceeded onwards till they came to the centre of the court-yard, +when Binnoch gave the preconcerted signal to his associates, which was +conveyed in the words, spoken in a loud voice--"Forward, Greystail, +forward!" as if addressing his horse, which he at the same time struck +with his whip to complete the deception. + +These words were no sooner uttered than the hay, with which the daring +adventurers were covered, was seen to move, and the next instant it was +thrown over upon the pavement, to the inexpressible amazement of the +idlers who were looking on; and, to their still greater surprise, +fifteen armed men leapt, with fearful shouts, into the court-yard, when, +being instantly headed by Binnoch, the work of death began. Every man +within their reach at the moment was cut down. The guard-room was +assailed, and all in it put to death, and passing from apartment to +apartment, they swept the garrison, and took possession of it. The +attack had been so sudden, so unexpected, and so vigorous, that its +unfortunate occupants, six times their number, had no time to rally or +defend themselves, and thus fell an easy prey to the bold adventurers. + +We have only to add that Binnoch was rewarded by Bruce, for this +important service, with some valuable lands in the parish of Linlithgow; +and that his descendants had for their arms a _hay-wain_, with the +motto, _virtute doloque_.[160] + +[Footnote 160: The following is a different, and probably a more correct +version of Binnoch's adventure, from Sir W. Scott's Tales of a +Grandfather. "Binnoch had been ordered by the English governor to +furnish some cart-loads of hay, of which they were in want. He promised +to bring it accordingly; but the night before he drove the hay to the +castle, he stationed a party of his friends, as well armed as possible, +near the entrance, where they could not be seen by the garrison, and +gave them directions that they should come to his assistance as soon as +they should hear him cry a signal, which was to be, 'Call all, call +all!' Then he loaded a great waggon with hay. But in the waggon he +placed eight strong men, well armed, lying flat on their breasts, and +covered over with hay, so that they could not be seen. He himself walked +carelessly beside the waggon; and he chose the stoutest and bravest of +his servants to be the driver, who carried at his belt a strong axe or +hatchet. In this way Binnoch approached the castle, early in the +morning; and the watchmen, who only saw two men, Binnoch being one of +them, with a cart of hay, which they expected, opened the gates, and +raised up the portcullis, to permit them to enter the castle. But as +soon as the cart had gotten under the gateway, Binnoch made a sign to +his servant, who, with his axe, suddenly cut asunder the _soam_, that +is, the yoke which fastens the horses to the cart, and the horses +finding themselves free, naturally started forward, the cart remaining +behind under the arch of the gate. At the same time Binnoch cried, as +loud as he could, 'Call all, call all!' and drawing his sword, which he +had under his country habit, he killed the porter. The armed men then +jumped up from under the hay where they lay concealed, and rushed on the +English guard. The Englishmen tried to shut the gates, but they could +not, because the cart of hay remained in the gateway, and prevented the +folding doors from being closed. The portcullis was also let fall, but +the grating was caught in the cart, and so could not drop to the ground. +The men who were in ambush near the gate hearing the cry, 'Call all, +call all!' ran to assist those who had leaped out from among the hay; +the castle was taken, and all the Englishmen killed or made prisoners. +King Robert rewarded Binnoch by bestowing on him an estate, which his +posterity long afterward enjoyed. The Binnings of Wallyford, descended +from that person, still bear in their coat armorial a wain loaded with +hay, with the motto, 'virtute doloque.'"] + +By the way, these two words, _courage_ and _stratagem_, express the very +spirit and essence of ancient war, and indeed of all war, a relic of +barbarism, the most foul and horrible the world has ever seen. +Defensible, perhaps, in cases of extremity, when it is the last and only +means of protecting our homes and altars, but in all other cases a +fearful atrocity, fit only for cannibals and demons! + +But yonder are the peaceful towers of Edinburgh, bathed in the sombre +light of evening. The very castle looks like an image of repose, as it +silently looms up amid the smoke and hum of the busy city. Signs of +peace and prosperity are every where around us, indicating, if we have +not yet reached, that at least we are approaching that happy time when +"men shall beat their swords into plough-shares, and their spears into +pruning hooks." + + "O scenes surpassing fable, and yet true, + Scenes of accomplished bliss! which who can see, + Though but in distant prospect, and not feel + His soul refreshed with foretaste of the joy?" + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + Journey to Peebles--Characters--Conversation on Politics--Scottish + Peasantry--Peebles--"Christ's Kirk on the Green"--A Legend--An old + Church--The Banks of the Tweed--Its ancient Castles--The Alarm + Fire--Excursion to the Vales of Ettrick and Yarrow--Stream of + Yarrow--St. Mary's Lake and Dryhope Tower--"The Dowie Dens of + Yarrow"--Growth of Poetry--Ballads and Poems on Yarrow by Hamilton, + Logan and Wordsworth. + + +On a cold, drizzly morning we start, in a substantial stage-coach, well +lined with cushions inside, for the ancient town of Peebles, which lies +to the south of Edinburgh, some twenty-five miles or more. The +'outsides' are wrapped in cloaks and overcoats, and literally covered in +with umbrellas; and from their earnest talking seem to be tolerably +comfortable. The "Scottish mist," cold and penetrating, would soon reach +the skin of an unsheltered back; all hands, therefore, and especially +the driver in front, and the guard behind, are muffled to the neck with +cravats and other appliances. Eyes and mouth only are visible, not +indeed to the passers by, but to the denizens of the stage-coach, who +cling together for warmth and sociability. Our travelling companions +inside are a Dominie from Auchingray, fat as a capon, with face round, +sleek and shiny, little gray eyes glancing beneath a placid forehead, +and indicating intelligence and good nature; and a south-country laird, +a large, brawny man, with a huge face and huger hat, corduroy breeches +and top boots, a coat that nearly covers the whole of his body, and a +vest of corresponding dimensions. A mighty cravat is tied neatly around +his capacious throat, and a couple of large gold seals dangle from +beneath his vest. In addition to these two, a little man, thin and +wrinkled, but with a clear, quick, restless eye, is sitting in the +corner, squeezed into a rather straight place by the laird and the +dominie. From his appearance and conversation, we should take him to be +a lawyer. With some little difficulty we get into conversation, but once +set agoing, it jogs on at a pretty fair pace. Insensibly it glides into +politics, and becomes rather lively. The lawyer is evidently a whig, the +laird a tory of the old stamp, and the dominie neither the one nor the +other, but rather more of a tory than anything else, as he is dependent, +in some sense, upon 'the powers that be.' + +"For my part," says the laird, taking hold of his watch-seals, and +twirling them energetically, "I do not believe in your two-faced +radicals, who have more impudence in their noddles than money in their +pockets, and who go routing about the country, crying up democracy and +all that sort of stuff, to the great injury of her majesty's subjects." + +"But, my dear sir," replies the lawyer, "you forget that money is not +the _summum bonum_ of human life, and that the gentlemen to whom you +refer are not impudent radicals, but clear-headed and patriotic whigs." + +"All gammon, sir! all gammon!" is the rejoinder of the laird, "I +wouldn't give a fig for the whole pack. One or two of them, I admit, are +tolerably respectable men. Lord John Russel belongs to the old nobility, +and is a man of some sense, but sadly deceived, full of nonsensical +plans and dangerous reforms. As to Dan. O'Connel, he is an old fox, a +regular Irish blackguard, who has not heart enough to make a living by +honest means, but fleeces it out of the starving Irish, in the shape of +repeal rent! Hang the rascal, I should be glad to see him gibbeted! Hume +is a mean, beggarly adventurer. And even Sir Robert Peel, with all his +excellences, has made sad mistakes on the subject of reform and the corn +laws. He's not the thing, after all! Sadly out of joint, sir, sadly out +of joint!" + +All this is said with such terrible energy, and such a menacing frown, +that even the lawyer cowers a little, and the dominie is almost +frightened. We think it best, upon the whole, to say little. But, +plucking up courage, the lawyer replies: + +"Sir, you come to conclusions that are too sweeping. That Lord John +Russel is a man of clear intellect and admirable forethought no one will +think of denying. His plans are well matured, and, moreover, aim at the +good of his country. Hume is a great political economist: Sir R. Peel is +a man of the highest order of mind; and Daniel O'Connel, with all his +faults, possesses uncommon powers of eloquence, and, doubtless, seeks +the good of his country." + +"The good of his country! All humbug, sir! If you had said his own good, +you would have come nearer the mark. He's a rascal, sir, rely on it, a +mean cowardly rascal, who, pretending to benefit the poor Irish, fills +his own pockets with their hard earnings. I appeal to Mr. Cooper here, +my respected friend, the parish schoolmaster of Auchingray." + +To which the dominie replies demurely: + +"As to my opinion, gentlemen, it is not of much consequence, but such as +it is I give with all candor. In the first place I opine that we are +liable somewhat to yield to our prejudices in estimating the characters +of public men; for, as my old friend, the Rev. Mr. Twist, used to say, +they have 'twa maisters to serve, the government and the public, and +it's unco difficult sometimes to sail between Scylla and Charybdis.' +Moreover, these are trying times, and much of primitive integrity and +patriotism are lost. For myself, I do not approve altogether of the +course of the whigs, and especially of the radicals. Daniel O'Connel is +a devoted Catholic, with no generous aspirations, or enlarged +conceptions of the public weal. A great man, certainly, a wonderful +orator, no doubt, but much tinctured with selfishness, and carried away +by wild and prurient schemes. Lord John Russel is a man of decided +talent and fine character, but I have not much confidence, after all, in +his practical wisdom, and good common sense. Sir Robert Peel, however +is, with some slight exceptions, a model statesman, a man of a +wonderfully clear, well balanced mind, and a deep insight into men and +things. Still, as my friend on the left says, he's somewhat out of joint +just now, and, for my own part, I could never altogether approve his +schemes." + +"There sir," quickly interposed the laird, "There sir! didn't I tell +you, sir? All humbug, sir! Nothing safe--nothing useful about the whigs! +Give me the good old days of my grandfather, when the rascals dared not +peep or mutter!" + +"But you forget, sir," is the answer of the lawyer, "that your friend, +the schoolmaster here, has admitted nearly all for which I contend." + +"Admitted nothing, sir! Comes to nothing, sir! And to tell you the plain +honest truth, I believe the whole pack of them are a set of humbugs! All +sham, sir! nothing but hypocrisy and humbug!" + +"But a modification of the corn laws is certainly desirable for the sake +of the poorer classes, many of whom are living upon the merest +trifle:"--we venture to remark. + +"All a mistake, sir! all a mistake! An honest, sensible man can always +make his way, and secure bread for his family!" + +"Well, but surely you consider a shilling or eighteen pence a day rather +miserable support!" + +"Not at all, sir! not at all! They're used to it, and thousands of them +are happier than you or I!" + +"Upon this point we beg leave to doubt, and hope the time is not far +distant when the common people will have cheap bread:"--we quietly +rejoin. + +"Amen!" responds the dominie. "That I am confident would be an +improvement; but how it is to be brought about is a question of great +difficulty. The common people of Scotland are not so poorly off as +foreigners represent them. Their habits are primitive and simple, and I +certainly have known many families, particularly in the country, make +themselves very comfortable on eighteen pence or a couple of shillings a +day." + +"Give us an example, if you please!" + +"Why, there is James Thomson, a working man, who makes, upon an average, +say eighteen pence or a couple of shillings sterling (fifty cents) +daily, through the year. He has a wife and four children. He built +himself a kind of stone and turf cottage on the edge of one of Lord B.'s +plantations, with a but and a ben,[161] and a little out-house. One day +I called in to see him about one of his children, and, in the course of +conversation, asked him how he got along." + +[Footnote 161: Two apartments.] + +"Brawly;"[162] was the reply. + +[Footnote 162: Finely.] + +"Can you make 'the twa ends meet' at the close of the year?" + +"Yes," said he, "and something mair than that. Last Candlemas I laid up +nae less than ten and saxpence." + +"But how can you do it. Have you any land to cultivate?" + +"A wee bittock," was the answer, "but it's graund for taties and +turnips." + +"Have you a cow?" + +"O aye, we have a coo, and a gude coo she is." + +"Well, what have you for victuals?" + +"The best o' parritch and milk in the morning, and at nicht. And as for +denner, we ha' nae great variety, but what's wholesome eneuch. And ye +ken, Dominie C., that hunger's the best sauce." + +"True enough, but excuse me, I should like to know what you generally +have for dinner." + +"Ou," said he, laughing, "the graundest kail i' the world, made o' +barley, butter and vegetables, wi' a bit o' beef, or a marrow bane in't +once in a while, and mealy tatties, scones and cakes, the very best in +the kintra!" + +"Well, you're content!" + +"To be sure we are! and gratefu', besides, to the Giver o' a' gude." + +"But you have a little pinch occasionally--in the cold and stormy winter +weather?" + +"Why ye-s--but it's nae mair than a body may expeck, and it's a great +deal less than we deserve. For mysel' I ha' nae great reason to +complain, but Sandy Wilson, ower the way, has had a sair time on't." + +"What's the matter?" + +"Why, ye see, Sandy is no very able-bodied, and maybe a little +shiftless, and he fell sick about the middle o' winter. His wife is a +proud kind o' body, and she said naething to the neebors, and I jalouse +they had a sair pinching time on't. The wee bit lassie seemed to be +dwining awa', and Sandy, puir fellow, was just at death's door. But the +minister o' the parish found it out, and Sandy was soon provided for. +Hech sir! we ought to be thankfu' that we hae our health. It's a great +blessing. For if a man only has health and a clear conscience he needna +fear famine or the deevil." + +"Sandy then got over his troubles, did he?" + +"In a measure," was the cautious reply, "but the puir wee lassie grew +paler and paler; and noo her bonny brown hair is covered wi' the yird. +She was a sweet bit lassie, but she was frail in the constitootion, ye +see, and the hard famishing winter was ower muckle for her feeble frame. +But she was weel cared for on her sick bed. And when she died, the hail +kintra side turned out to attend the funeral, and mony tears were shed +upon her wee bit grave. My Mary, who gaed to school wi' her, canna get +ower it to this day. She was an unco bonny thing--sweet as the mornin' +wat wi' dew, and gentle as a pet lamb. But her grave is green by this +time, and Sandy is better off than he used to be." + +The burly laird listened attentively to this narrative, and at the close +of it, a tear dimmed his eye. He gave a slight cough, as if to repress +and to hide his rising emotion, and looking out the coach window, +exclaimed, "There's Peebles, at last, and yonder's the sign of the Black +Bull," as if he were prodigiously relieved. + +The day is brightening, and this ancient city on the Tweed, looks quite +agreeable, reminding us of the days of old, when the kings and nobles of +Scotland used to witness, on its beautiful green, games of archery, +golf, and so forth. It is supposed to be the scene referred to in the +opening stanza of "Christ's Kirk on the Green," by James the First, the +royal poet of Scotland. + + "Was never in Scotland hard nor sene, + Sic dansing nor deray, + Nouther at Falkland on the green, + Nor Pebllis in the play; + As wes of wowarris as I wene, + At Christ's Kirk on ane day; + Thair came our kittles washen clene, + In thair new kirtillis of gray + Full gay, + At Christ's Kirk o' the Grene that day." + +This old town was burnt and laid waste more than once during the +invasions of the English. Still, from its sequestered situation, it +never figured largely in any great event. An antique bridge, consisting +of five arches, connects the old and new towns, which lie on either bank +of the river. Rambling through the place, we come to a large massive +building, in a castellated form, known to have belonged to the +Queensberry family, and believed to be the scene of a romantic incident, +thus related by Sir Walter Scott:--"There is a tradition in Tweedale, +that when Nidpath castle, near Peebles, was inhabited by the Earls of +March, a mutual passion subsisted between a daughter of that noble +family and the son of the Laird of Tushielaw, in Ettrick Forest. As the +alliance was thought unsuitable by her parents, the young man went +abroad. During his absence, the young lady fell into a consumption, and +at length, as the only means of saving her life, her father consented +that her lover should be recalled. On the day when he was expected to +pass through Peebles, on the road to Tushielaw, the young lady, though +much exhausted, caused herself to be carried to the balcony of a house +in Peebles, belonging to the family, that she might see him when he rode +past. Her anxiety and eagerness gave such force to her organs that she +is said to have distinguished his horses' footsteps at an incredible +distance. But Tushielaw, unprepared for the change in her appearance, +and not expecting to see her in that place, rode on, without recognizing +her, or even slackening his pace. The lady was unable to support the +shock, and after a short struggle died in the arms of her attendants." + +Here are the ruins of some very old churches, one in particular, at the +western extremity of the old town. This was the original parish church +of Peebles, and was built upon the site of one still more ancient, +occupied by the Culdees, (probably from Cultores Dei, worshipers of +God,) an ancient class of monks, whose forms of worship and doctrinal +belief were extremely simple, and, as some suppose, evangelical. They +had monasteries at Jona, and in various parts of Scotland, before the +Anglo-Saxon period, and preserved for many years, the pure worship of +God. An altar in St. Andrew's church, was dedicated to St. Michael, with +a special endowment for the services of "a chapellane, there perpetually +to say mes, efter the valow of the rents and possessions gevin thereto, +in honor of Almighty God, Mary his Modyr, and Saint Michael, for the +hele of the body and the sawl of Jamys, King of Scotts, for the +balyheis, ye burges, and ye communite of the burgh of Peebles, and for +the hele of their awn sawlis, thair fadyris sawlis, thair modyris +sawlis, thair kinnis sawlis, and al Chrystyn sawlis." Part of the tithes +of this church are now used to support a Grammar school, and while the +people still worship Almighty God, they have but little reverence for +"Mary his modyr, and St. Michael." + +Let us wander along the banks of this far-famed and beautiful river, +gliding sweetly through one of the most beautiful vales in Scotland, and +once adorned with numerous castles and monasteries, whose mouldering +remains yet diversify the landscape. The whole vale of the Tweed, both +above and below Peebles, was studded with a chain of castles, built in +the shape of square towers, and ordinarily consisting of three stories, +to serve as a defence against the invasion of the English freebooters. +They were built alternately on each side of the river, and at such +distances that one could be seen from the other. A fire kindled on the +top of one of these, to give warning of a hostile incursion, could thus +be perpetuated through the whole, till a tract of country seventy miles +long, "from Berwick to the Bield," and fifty broad, was alarmed in a few +hours. What objects of terror and sublimity these blazing summits, +lighting, in a dark night, the whole valley of the Tweed, and flashing +their ruddy gleam upon copsewood and river, hill-top and castle turret! + + "A score of fires, I ween, + From height, and hill, and cliff were seen, + Each with warlike tidings fraught, + Each from each the signal caught; + Each after each they glanced in sight, + As stars arise upon the night: + They gleamed on many a dusky tarn + Haunted by the lonely earn,[163] + On many a cairn's grey pyramid, + Where urns of mighty chiefs lie hid." + + _Lay of the Last Minstrel._ + +[Footnote 163: The Scottish eagle.] + +But the grey mist of evening is beginning to settle upon the vale of the +Tweed, and the quaint old town of Peebles, "with its three old bridges, +and three old steeples, by three old churches borne." + +With fair weather, and in admirable spirits, we set off next morning, +after breakfast, and travel at an easy pace down the fair banks of the +"silver Tweed," till we reach the pretty village of Innerleithen, at the +bottom of a sequestered dell, encircled on one side by high and +partially wooded hills, and enlivened by the clear waters of the Tweed, +rolling in front. Passing a handsome wooden bridge which crosses the +river, we reach the hamlet of Traquair and Traquair house, and naturally +enquire for the far-famed "Bush aboon Traquair." It is pointed out at +the bottom of the hill which overlooks the lawn, where a few birch trees +may be seen, the only remains of that dear old spot, made sacred by +melody and song. Continuing our journey across the country, we get among +the hills, and after travelling some time through a deep glen, we see +before us the "haunted stream of Yarrow," the very name of which has +become a synonym for all that is tender in sentiment and beautiful in +poetry. + + "And is this Yarrow? This the stream, + Of which my fancy cherished + So faithfully a waking dream, + An image that hath perished?" + +Following in somewhat pensive mood, "its beautiful meanderings" through +this hill-guarded valley, we come to St. Mary's Lake, lying in solemn +but beautiful serenity among the mountains, whose heathy sides and bare +cliffs are mirrored in her pellucid depths. + + "Nor fen nor sedge + Pollute the pure lake's crystal edge; + Abrupt and sheer the mountains sink + At once upon the level brink; + And just a trace of silver sand + Marks where the water meets the land. + Far, in the mirror bright and blue, + Each hill's huge outline you may view; + Shaggy with heath, but lonely bare, + Nor tree, nor bush, nor brake is there, + Save where of land, yon slender line + Bears thwart the lake the scattered pine. + Nor thicket, dell, nor copse you spy, + Where living thing concealed might lie; + Nor point retiring hides a dell + Where swain or woodman lone might dwell; + There's nothing left to fancy's guess, + You see that all is loneliness; + And silence adds,--though the steep hills + Send to the lake a thousand rills, + In summer tide so soft they weep, + The sound but lulls the ear asleep; + Your horse's hoof-tread sounds too rude, + So stilly is the solitude." + + _Marmion._ + +Passing to the eastern extremity of the Lake, we come to Dryhope Tower, +the birth-place of Mary Scott, the famous "Flower of Yarrow." Her lover, +or husband, was slain by Scott of Tushielaw, from jealousy, or from a +desire to secure her fortune, her father having promised to endow her +with half his property. Seized by the imagination of the ancient +Minnesingers, this incident became the subject of a ballad, or ballads +of great beauty and pathos, well known through Scotland, and frequently +sung "amang her green braes." This has invested Yarrow with a deep +poetical charm, and given rise to a great variety of sweet and pathetic +strains, affording a fine exemplification of the manner in which poetry +grows, as by a natural law of progress. A single incident gathers around +itself all beautiful images, all tender thoughts, feelings and passions, +till the region in which it occurred becomes instinct with fantasy, and +absolutely glows with a sort of conscious beauty. The very air is +burdened with a melancholy charm. The stream meandering through the +vale, and the winds whispering through the mountain glens or rippling +the surface of St. Mary's lake, "murmur a music not their own." In a +word, we have come from the real, everyday world, into one that is +ideal, where, in the deep stillness of nature, the voices of the past +reveal themselves to the listening soul. In this view we know not a more +interesting or instructive series of poems than those relating to +Yarrow. The first is the ballad of the "Dowie Dens," or rather, "Downs +of Yarrow." This is variously printed, but we give the version of +Motherwell. + + There were three lords birling at the wine, + On the Dowie Dens of Yarrow; + They made a compact them between, + They would go fecht to-morrow. + + "Thou took our sister to be thy wife, + And thou ne'er thocht her thy marrow, + Thou stealed her frae her daddy's back, + When she was the Rose of Yarrow." + + "Yes, I took your sister to be my wife, + And I made her my marrow; + I stealed her frae her daddy's back, + And she's still the Rose of Yarrow." + + He is hame to his lady gane, + As he had done before, O; + Says, "Madam I must go and fecht, + On the Dowie Downs o' Yarrow." + + "Stay at hame, my Lord," she said, + "For that will breed much sorrow; + For my three brethren will slay thee, + On the Dowie Downs o' Yarrow." + + "Hold your tongue, my lady fair; + For what needs a' this sorrow? + For I'll be hame gin' the clock strikes nine, + From the Dowie Downs o' Yarrow." + + He wush his face, and she combed his hair, + As she had done before, O; + She dressed him up in his armour clear, + Sent him forth to fecht on Yarrow. + + "Come ye here to hawk or hound, + Or drink the wine that's sae clear, O; + Or come ye here to eat in your words, + That you're not the Rose o' Yarrow?" + + "I came not here to hawk or hound, + Nor to drink the wine that's sae clear, O; + Nor came I here to eat in my words, + For I'm still the Rose o' Yarrow." + + Then they all begud to fecht, + I wad they focht richt sore, O; + Till a cowardly man cam' behind his back, + And pierced his body thorough. + + "Gae hame, gae hame, its my man John, + As ye have done before, O: + An tell it to my gaye ladye + That I soundly sleep on Yarrow." + + His man John he has gane hame, + As he had done before, O; + And told it to his gay ladye. + That he soundly slept on Yarrow. + + "I dreamed a dream, now since the 'streen,[164] + God keep us a' frae sorrow! + That my lord and I was pu'ing the heather green, + From the Dowie Downs o' Yarrow." + + Sometimes she rode, sometimes she gade,[165] + As she had done before, O; + And aye between she fell in a swoon, + Lang or she cam' to Yarrow. + + Her hair it was five quarters lang, + 'Twas like the gold for yellow; + She twisted it round his milk white hand, + And she's drawn him hame frae Yarrow. + + Out and spak her father dear, + Says, "What needs a' this sorrow? + For I'll get you a far better lord + Than ever died on Yarrow." + + "O hold your tongue, father," she said, + "For you've bred a' my sorrow; + For that rose'll ne'er spring so sweet in May, + As that Rose I lost on Yarrow!" + +[Footnote 164: Yesternight.] + +[Footnote 165: Walked.] + +More than a century ago, William Hamilton, of Bangor, a gentleman of +rank, education, and poetical talents, wrote the following exquisite +ballad:[166] + +[Footnote 166: We quote only a portion of Hamilton's ballad.] + + THE BRAES OF YARROW. + + Busk ye, busk ye, my bonny, bonny bride, + Busk ye, busk ye, my winsome marrow! + Busk ye, busk ye, my bonny, bonny bride, + And think nae mair o' the Braes o' Yarrow. + + Whare gat ye that bonny, bonny bride? + Whare gat ye that winsome marrow? + I gat her where I darena weil be seen + Pouing the birks on the Braes o' Yarrow. + + Weep not, weep not, my bonny, bonny bride, + Weep not, my winsome marrow! + Nor let thy heart lament to leave + Pouing the birks on the Braes o' Yarrow. + + Lang maun she weep, lang maun she weep, + Lang maun she weep with dule and sorrow, + And lang maun I nae mair weil be seen, + Pouing the birks on the Braes o' Yarrow. + + Why runs thy stream, O Yarrow, Yarrow, red? + Why on thy braes heard the voice o' sorrow? + And why yon melancholious weeds, + Hung on the bonny birks o' Yarrow? + + What's yonder floats on the rueful flude? + What's yonder floats, O dule and sorrow! + 'Tis he, the comely swain I slew, + Upon the duleful braes o' Yarrow. + + Wash, O wash his wounds in tears, + His wounds in tears with dule and sorrow, + And wrap his limbs in mourning weeds, + And lay him on the Braes o' Yarrow. + + Sweet smells the birk, green grows the grass, + Yellow on Yarrow bank the gowan, + Fair hangs the apple frae the rock, + Sweet the wave of Yarrow flowan. + + Flows Yarrow sweet, as sweet flows Tweed, + As green its grass, its gowan as yellow, + As sweet smells on its braes the birk, + The apple frae the rock as mellow. + + Busk ye, then busk, my bonny, bonny bride, + Busk ye, busk ye, my winsome marrow, + Busk ye and lue me on the banks o' Tweed, + And think nae mair on the Braes o' Yarrow. + + How can I busk a bonny, bonny bride, + How can I busk a winsome marrow, + How lue him on the banks o' Tweed + That slew my love on the braes o' Yarrow? + + O Yarrow fields, may never, never rain, + Nor dew thy tender blossoms cover, + For there was basely slain my love, + My love, as he had not been a lover. + + The boy put on his robes o' green, + His purple vest, 'twas my ain sewing + Ah! wretched me! I little kenned + He was in these to meet his ruin. + + The boy took out his milk-white steed, + Unheedful of my dule and sorrow, + But ere the to-fall of the night + He lay a corpse on the Braes o' Yarrow. + + Much I rejoiced that waeful day; + I sang, my voice the woods returning, + But lang ere night the spear was flown, + That slew my love, and left me mourning. + + * * * * * + + Yes, yes, prepare the bed of love, + With bridal sheets my body cover, + Unbar, ye bridal maids, the door, + Let in the expected husband lover + + But who the expected husband is? + His hands, methinks, are bathed in slaughter. + Ah me! what ghastly spectre's yon, + Comes in his pale shroud, bleeding after? + + Pale as he is, here lay him down, + O lay his cold head on my pillow; + Take off, take off these bridal weeds, + And crown my careful head with willow. + + * * * * * + + Return, return, O mournful bride, + Return and dry thy useless sorrow; + Thy lover heeds naught of thy sighs, + He lies a corpse on the Braes o' Yarrow. + +Somewhat more than half a century later, Logan wrote a song with the +same title, of which the following are the concluding stanzas. + + "Sweet were his words when last we met; + My passion I as freely told him; + Clasped in his arms I little thought + That I should never more behold him! + Scarce was I gone, I saw his ghost; + It vanished with a shriek of sorrow; + Thrice did the water wraith ascend + And gave a doleful groan through Yarrow. + + "His mother from the window look'd + With all the longing of a mother; + His little sister weeping walk'd + The green wood path to meet her brother. + They sought him East, they sought him West, + They sought him all the forest thorough; + They only saw the cloud of night, + They only heard the roar of Yarrow! + + "No longer from thy window look, + Thou hast no son, O tender mother! + No longer walk, thou lovely maid! + Alas! thou hast no more a brother! + No longer seek him East or West, + And search no more the forest thoro'; + For wandering in the night so dark, + He fell a lifeless corpse in Yarrow. + + "The tear shall never leave my cheek, + No other youth shall be my marrow; + I'll seek thy body in the stream, + And then with thee I'll sleep in Yarrow." + The tear did never leave her cheek, + No other youth became her marrow; + She found his body in the stream, + And now with him she sleeps in Yarrow. + +We are now prepared to read Wordsworths' two exquisite poems, "Yarrow +Unvisited," and "Yarrow Visited," the splendid flowering, so to speak, +of this poetical growth. + + From Stirling Castle we had seen + The mazy Forth unravelled; + Had trod the banks of Clyde and Tay, + And with the Tweed had travelled; + And when we came to Clovenford, + Then said 'my _winsome Marrow_,' + "Whate'er betide, we'll turn aside, + And see the braes o' Yarrow." + + "Let Yarrow folk _frae_ Selkirk Town, + Who have been buying, selling, + Go back to Yarrow, 'tis their own; + Each maiden to her dwelling! + On Yarrow's banks let herons feed, + Hares couch and rabbits burrow! + But we will downward with the Tweed, + Nor turn aside to Yarrow. + + "There's Galla Water, Leader Haughs, + Both lying right before us; + And Dryborough where with chiming Tweed + The Lintwhites sing in chorus; + There's pleasant Tivoitdale, a land + Made blithe with plough and harrow, + Why throw away a needful day + To go in search of Yarrow? + + "What's Yarrow but a river bare, + That glides the dark hills under? + There are a thousand such elsewhere + As worthy of your wonder." + --Strange words they seemed of slight and scorn; + My true love sigh'd for sorrow; + And looked me in the face to think + I thus could speak of Yarrow! + + "Oh green, said I, are Yarrow Holms + And sweet is 'Yarrow flowing!' + Fair hangs the apple frae the rock, + But we will leave it growing. + O'er hilly path and open Strath, + We'll wander Scotland thorough; + But though so near we will not turn + Into the Dale of Yarrow. + + "Let beeves and home-bred kine partake + The sweets of Burnmill meadow; + The swan, on still St. Mary's Lake, + Float double, swan and shadow! + We will not see them; will not go, + To-day, nor yet to-morrow; + Enough if in our hearts we know + There's such a place as Yarrow. + + "Be Yarrow stream unseen, unknown! + It must, or we shall rue it; + We have a vision of our own; + Ah! why should we undo it? + The treasured dreams of times long past, + We'll keep them 'winsome Marrow!' + For when we're there, although tis fair, + 'Twill be another Yarrow! + + "If care with freezing years should come, + And wandering seem but folly,-- + Should we be loth to stir from home, + And yet be melancholy; + Should life be dull, and spirits low, + 'Twill soothe us in our sorrow, + That earth has something yet to show, + The bonny Holms of Yarrow." + +This is beautiful, but the following is more so. Indeed it is the very +perfection of descriptive poetry. + + YARROW VISITED. + + And is this--Yarrow?--This the stream + Of which my fancy cherished + So faithfully a waking dream? + An image that has perished! + O that some minstrel's harp were near, + To utter notes of gladness, + And chase this silence from the air, + That fills my heart with sadness! + + Yet why?--a silvery current flows + With uncontrolled meanderings; + Nor have these eyes by greener hills + Been soothed in all my wanderings. + And, through her depths, St. Mary's Lake + Is visibly delighted; + For not a feature of those hills + Is in the mirror slighted. + + A blue sky bends o'er Yarrow Vale, + Save where that pearly whiteness + Is round the rising sun diffused, + A tender hazy brightness; + Mild dawn of promise! that excludes + All profitless dejection; + Though not unwilling here to admit + A pensive recollection. + + Where was it that the famous Flower + Of Yarrow Vale lay bleeding? + His bed perchance was yon smooth mound + On which the herd is feeding: + And haply from this crystal pool, + Now peaceful as the morning, + The Water Wraith ascended thrice, + And gave his doleful warning. + + Delicious is the lay that sings + The haunts of happy lovers, + The path that leads them to the grove, + The leafy grove that covers; + And Pity sanctifies the verse + That points, by strength of sorrow, + The unconquerable strength of love; + Bear witness rueful Yarrow! + + But thou, that didst appear so fair + To fond imagination, + Dost rival in the light of day + Her delicate creation: + Meek loveliness is round thee spread, + A softness still and holy; + The grace of forest charms decayed + And pastoral melancholy. + + That region left, the Vale unfolds + Rich groves of lofty stature, + With Yarrow winding through the pomp + Of cultivated nature; + And rising from those lofty groves, + Behold a ruin hoary! + The shattered front of Newark's towers + Renowned in Border story. + + Fair scenes for childhood's opening bloom, + For sportive youth to stray in, + For manhood to enjoy his strength; + And age to wear away in! + Yon cottage seems a bower of bliss, + A covert for protection + Of tender thoughts that nestle there, + The brood of chaste affection. + + How sweet on this autumnal day, + The wild wood fruits to gather, + And on my True-love's forehead plant + A crest of blooming heather! + And what if I enwreathed my own! + 'Twere no offence to reason; + The sober hills thus deck their brows + To meet the wintry season. + + I see, but not by sight alone, + Loved Yarrow, have I won thee; + A ray of Fancy still survives-- + Her sunshine plays upon thee! + Thy ever youthful waters keep + A course of lively pleasure; + And gladsome notes my lips can breathe, + Accordant to the measure. + + The vapors linger round the Heights, + They melt,--and soon must vanish; + One hour is their's, nor more is mine-- + Sad thought, which I would banish, + But that I know, where'er I go, + Thy genuine image, Yarrow! + Will dwell with me, to heighten joy, + And cheer my mind in sorrow. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + Hamlet and Church-yard of Ettrick--Monument to Thomas + Boston--Birth-place of the Ettrick Shepherd--Altrieve + Cottage--Biographical Sketch of the Ettrick Shepherd--The Town of + Selkirk--Monument to Sir Walter Scott--Battle-field of Philiphaugh. + + +Proceeding westward from St. Mary's Lake about half a mile, we come to +the hill of Merecleughhead, where King James the Fifth entered the +district to inflict summary vengeance upon the outlaws who frequented +the Ettrick Forest in the days of old, a circumstance which gave rise to +many of the old Scottish ballads. At the centre of the parish lie the +hamlet and church-yard of Ettrick, on the stream of that name. Entering +the burying-ground we behold the recently erected tomb of Thomas Boston, +author of the well known work called "The Fourfold State," one of the +best and holiest men that ever "hallowed" the "bushy dells" of Ettrick. +With apostolic fervor did he preach the Gospel among these hills and +vales, and his work, for more than three generations, has instructed the +Scottish peasantry in the high doctrines of the Christian faith. His +memory will ever be fragrant among the churches of Scotland. Not far +from the burying-ground a house is pointed out in which the celebrated +"Ettrick Shepherd" was born. Passing to the east end of the lake we see +before us Altrieve Cottage, "bosomed low mid tufted trees," and nearly +encircled by the "sweet burnie," in whose limpid waters the green +foliage is mirrored. Here the poet lived, in the latter period of his +life, and here also he died. The scenes around, moor, mountain and glen, +lake, river and ruin, are hallowed by the genius of the "shepherd bard," +who, to quote his own words, + + "Found in youth a harp among the hills, + Dropt by the Elfin people; and whilst the moon + Entranced, hung o'er still Saint Mary's loch, + Harped by that charmed water, so that the swan + Came floating onwards through the water blue,-- + A dream-like creature, listening to a dream; + And the queen of the fairies rising silently + Through the pure mist, stood at the shepherd's feet, + And half forgot her own green paradise, + Far in the bosom of the hill--so wild! + So sweet! so sad! flowed forth that shepherd's lay." + +James Hogg, born in 1772, was descended from a family of shepherds, and +spent his boyhood and youth herding his flocks among the hills. Far from +the bustle of the world, in the deep solitudes of nature, his young and +vigorous imagination became familiar with all wild and beautiful sights, +all sweet and solemn sounds. Alone with nature during the day, he spent +his evening hours in listening to ancient ballads and legends, of which +his mother was a great reciter. This fed his imagination, and supplied +it with an infinite variety of strange and beautiful imagery. To this +fact he has himself thus strikingly referred. + + "O list the mystic lore sublime, + Of fairy tales of ancient time! + I learned them in the lonely glen, + The last abodes of living men; + Where never stranger came our way, + By summer night or winter day; + Where neighboring hind or cot was none-- + Our converse was with heaven alone-- + With voices through the cloud that sung + And brooding storms that round us hung. + O lady judge, if judge ye may, + How stern and ample was the sway + Of themes like these, when darkness fell + And gray-haired sires the tales would tell! + When doors were barred and elder dame + Plied at her task beside the flame, + That through the smoke and gloom alone + On dim and cumbered faces shone-- + The bleat of mountain goat on high, + That from the cliff came quavering by; + The echoing rock, the rushing flood, + The cataract's swell, the moaning wood; + The undefined and mingled hum-- + Voice of the desert never dumb! + All these have left within this heart + A feeling tongue can ne'er impart + A wildered and unearthly flame, + A something that's without a name." + +Another circumstance in the early life of Hogg tended to nurse his +fancy. He had, in all, something like six months' schooling, and having +entered the service of Mr. Laidlaw, another great lover of legends, +songs and stories of the olden time, he subscribed to a circulating +library at Peebles, whose diversified contents he devoured within a +short time. He read poetry, romances and tales with avidity, and stored +his mind with traditionary ballads, songs and stories. This +circumstance will account for his wayward, changeable life, as well as +for the wildness and strength of his imagination. In the field of +reality he was nothing, in that of fancy everything. + +He is said to have been a remarkably fine-looking young man, having a +florid complexion, and a profusion of light brown hair, which he wore, +coiled up, beneath his "blithe blue bonnet." An attack of illness +induced by over-exertion, on a hot summer's day, so completely altered +his appearance, that his friends scarcely recognized him as the same +person. Of a jovial and merry disposition, he was a great favorite in +all companies, and at times partook too freely of "the mountain dew." + +Being introduced by the son of his employer to Sir Walter Scott, the +Ettrick Shepherd assisted him in the collection of old ballads for the +"Border Minstrelsy." He soon began to try his own hand in imitation of +these traditionary poems, and published a volume of ballads, which +attracted some attention, but never became very popular. Having embarked +in sheep farming, and attempted one or two speculations in which he +failed utterly, he resolved to repair to the city of Edinburgh, and +support himself by his pen. "The Forest Minstrel," a collection of +songs, was his first publication here; his second, "The Spy," a light +periodical, which enjoyed a brief and precarious existence. It was not +till the publication, in 1813, of his principal poetical production, +"The Queen's Wake," that his reputation as a poet was firmly +established. The plan was so simple and striking, and the execution so +vigorous and delightful, that it "took" at once, and became universally +popular. The old "Wake" or festival in Scotland was ordinarily +celebrated with various kinds of diversions, among which music and song +held the principal place. The "Queen's Wake" consists of a collection of +tales and ballads supposed to be sung by different bards to the young +Queen of Scotland,-- + + "When royal Mary, blithe of mood, + Kept holyday at Holyrood." + +The various productions of the minstrels are strung together by a thread +of light and graceful narrative. The "Wake" lasts three successive +nights, and a richly ornamented harp is the victor's reward. Rizzio is +among the number of the competitors; but Gardyne, a native bard, obtains +the prize. The plan supplies the Ettrick Shepherd with an opportunity of +displaying the extreme facility with which he could adapt himself to all +kinds of style, a facility so great that he subsequently published, +under the title of "The Mirror of the Poets," a collection of poems +ascribed by him to Byron, Campbell, Scott, Southey, Crabbe, Wordsworth +and others, in which the deception is so admirable, that multitudes +actually supposed them genuine productions. Conscious of his strength, +he breaks forth in the "Queen's Wake," in the following exulting +strains. + + "The land was charmed to list his lays; + It knew the harp of ancient days. + The border chiefs that long had been + In sepulchres unhearsed and green, + Passed from their mouldy vaults away + In armor red, and stern array, + And by their moonlight halls were seen + In visor, helm, and habergeon. + Even fairies sought our land again, + So powerful was the magic strain." + +Scott had advised him to abandon poetry, as "a bootless task," a +circumstance to which he thus refers: + + "Blest be his generous heart for aye! + He told me where the relic lay; + Pointed my way with ready will, + Afar on Ettrick's wildest hill; + Watched my first notes with curious eye; + And wondered at my minstrelsy: + He little weened a parent's tongue + Such strains had o'er my cradle sung. + + "But when to native feelings true + I struck upon a chord was new; + When by myself I 'gan to play, + He tried to wile my harp away. + Just when her notes began with skill + To sound beneath the southern hill, + And twine around my bosom's core, + How could we part forevermore? + 'Twas kindness all--I cannot blame-- + For bootless is the minstrel's flame: + But sure a bard might well have known + Another's feelings by his own!" + +Scott, it is said, was grieved at this reference to his friendly +counsel, given at a time when he knew not the powers of Hogg. This, +however, illustrates a fact often occurring in the history of genius, +which often struggles hard to develop itself, alone conscious of its +native powers. When Sheridan first spoke in the house of commons he made +an utter failure. But instead of being discouraged, he remarked with +energy, "I know that it is in me, and I _must_ have it out!" Campbell +offered his "Pleasures of Hope" to nearly all the book publishers in +Scotland, who refused it. Not one of them could be prevailed upon even +to risk paper and ink upon the chance of its success; and at last, it +was only with considerable reluctance that Mundell & Son, printers to +the University, undertook its publication, with the _liberal_ condition +that the author should be allowed fifty copies at the _trade price_, and +in the event of its reaching a second edition, a thing hardly +anticipated, that he should receive the _immense_ sum of fifty dollars! + +The Ettrick Shepherd continued for a number of years to publish +sketches, stories, and so forth, in prose and verse. He describes well, +and in his prose compositions often breaks out into flashes of keen +broad humor, but he is not particularly successful in the construction +of plots, or in the arrangement of incidents. He is most at home in the +regions of pure fancy. The moment he sets foot in fairyland he becomes +inspired, and pours out "in delightful profusion" his beautiful +imaginings. Inferior to Burns in depth of passion, in keen perception of +the beautiful, and in the description of actual scenes, he is perhaps +superior to him in the wild delicacy of his inventions and in the rich +coloring of his imaginative pictures. Burns was the poet of nature, and +went far beyond his Scottish contemporaries and successors, in strength +of conception, beauty of imagery, intensity of feeling, and melody of +verse. But Hogg excelled in imaginative musing, and became, by natural +right, the acknowledged "bard of fairyland." His legend of "Bonny +Kilmeny" has been universally admired. + + Bonny Kilmeny gaed up the glen, + But it was na to meet Duneira's men; + Nor the rosy monk of the isle to see, + For Kilmeny was pure as pure could be. + It was only to hear the yorlin sing, + And pu' the cress flower round the spring; + The scarlet hypp and the hind berrye, + And the nut that hung frae the hazel tree; + But Kilmeny was pure as pure could be. + But lang may her minny[167] look o'er the wa', + And lang may she seek i' the greenwood shaw; + Lang the laird of Duneira blame, + And lang, lang greet or Kilmeny come hame! + + When many a day had come and fled, + When grief grew calm, and hope was dead, + When mass for Kilmeny's soul had been sung, + When the beads-man had prayed, and the dead-bell rung, + Late, late in a gloamin, when all was still, + When the fringe was red on the western hill, + The wood was sere, the moon i' the wane, + The reek o' the cot hung over the plain, + Like a little wee cloud in the world its lane;[168] + When the ingle lowed[169] with an eiry[170] leme, + Late, late in the gloamin, Kilmeny came hame! + + Kilmeny, Kilmeny, where have you been? + Lang hae we sought baith holt and dean,[171] + By linn, by ford and greenwood tree, + Yet you are halesome and fair to see. + Where gat you that joup[172] o' the lily scheen? + That bonny snook[173] o' the birk sae green? + And these roses, the fairest that ever were seen? + Kilmeny, Kilmeny, where have you been? + + Kilmeny looked up wi' a lovely grace, + But nae smile was seen on Kilmeny's face; + As still was her look, and as still was her ee, + As the stillness that lay on the emerant lea, + Or the mist that sleeps on a waveless sea. + + For Kilmeny had been she knew not where, + And Kilmeny had seen what she could not declare; + Kilmeny had been where the cock never crew, + Where the rain never fell, and the wind never blew, + But it seemed as the harp of the sky had rung, + And the airs of heaven played round her tongue, + When she spake of the lovely forms she had seen, + And a land where sin had never been, + A land of love and a land of light, + Withouten sun, or moon, or night; + Where the river swa'd[174] a living stream, + And the light a pure celestial beam: + The land of vision it would seem, + A still, an everlasting dream. + + In yon greenwood there is a waik, + And in that waik there is a wene, + And in that wene there is a maike,[175] + That neither hath flesh, blood nor bane, + And down in yon greenwood he walks his lane! + In that grene wene Kilmeny lay + Her bosom happed wi' the flowrets gay; + And the air was soft, and the silence deep, + And bonny Kilmeny fell sound asleep; + She kenn'd nae mair, nor opened her ee, + Till waked by the hymns of a far countrye, + She wakened on couch of the silk sae slim, + All striped wi' the bars of the rainbow's rim; + And lovely beings around her were rife, + Who erst had travelled mortal life. + They clasped her waist and her hands sae fair, + They kissed her cheek, and they kamed her hair, + And round came many a blooming fere, + Saying, "Bonny Kilmeny, ye're welcome here." + + * * * * * + + They lifted Kilmeny, they led her away, + And she walked in the light of a sunless day, + The sky was a dome of crystal bright, + The fountain of vision, and fountain of light; + The emerant fields were of dazzling glow, + And the flowers of everlasting blow. + Then deep in the stream her body they laid, + That her youth and beauty might never fade; + And they smiled on heaven, when they saw her lie + In the stream of life that wandered by; + And she heard a song, she heard it sung, + She kenn'd not where, but so sweetly it rung, + It fell on her ears like a dream of the morn: + "O, blest be the day Kilmeny was born! + Now shall the land of spirits see, + Now shall it ken what a woman may be! + The sun that shines on the world so bright, + A borrowed gleam from the fountain of light: + And the moon that sleeks the sky sae dun, + Like a gowden bow, or a beamless sun, + Shall skulk away, and be seen nae mair, + And the angels shall miss them travelling the air. + But lang, lang after both night and day, + When the sun and the world have 'eelged[176] away, + When the sinner has gane to his waesome doom, + Kilmeny shall smile in eternal bloom!" + + They sooft[177] her away to a mountain green, + To see what mortal had never seen; + And they seated her high on a purple sward, + And bade her heed what she saw and heard; + And note the changes the spirits wrought, + For now she lived in the land of thought. + She looked and she saw no sun nor skies, + But a crystal dome of a thousand dyes. + She looked and she saw no lang aright, + But an endless whirl of glory and light. + And radiant beings went and came, + Far swifter than wind, or the linked flame; + She hid her een from the dazzling view, + She looked again, and the scene was new. + She saw a sun on a simmer sky, + And clouds of amber sailing by; + A lovely land aneath her lay, + And that land had lakes and mountains gray; + And that land had valleys and hoary piles, + And merlit seas, and a thousand isles; + She saw the corn wave on the vale; + She saw the deer run down the dale; + And many a mortal toiling sore, + And she thought she had seen the land afore. + + * * * * * + + To sing of the sights Kilmeny saw, + So far surpassing nature's law, + The singer's voice would sink away, + And the string of his harp would cease to play, + But she saw while the sorrows of man were by, + And all was love and harmony; + While the sterns of heaven fell lonely away, + Like the flakes of snow on a winter's day. + + Then Kilmeny begged again to see + The friends she had left in her ain countrye, + To tell of the place where she had been, + And the glories that lay in the land unseen. + With distant music soft and deep, + They lulled Kilmeny sound asleep; + And when she awakened, she lay her lane, + All happed with flowers in the greenwood wene + When seven lang years had come and fled, + When grief was calm and hope was dead, + When scarce was remembered Kilmeny's name. + Late, late in the gloamin Kilmeny came hame! + And oh! her beauty was fair to see, + But still and steadfast was her ee; + Such beauty bard may never declare, + For there was no pride nor passion there; + And the soft desire of maiden's een, + In that mild face could never be seen. + Her seyman was the lily flower, + And her cheek the moss-rose in the shower; + And her voice like the distant melodye, + That floats along the twilight sea. + But she loved to range the lanely glen, + And keeped afar frae the haunts of men, + Her holy hymns unheard to sing, + To suck the flowers and drink the spring; + But wherever her peaceful form appeared, + The wild beasts of the hill were cheered; + The wolf played blithely round the field, + The lordly bison lowed and kneeled, + The dun deer wooed with manner bland, + And cowered aneath her lily hand. + And when at eve the woodlands rung, + When hymns of other worlds she sung, + In ecstacy of sweet devotion, + Oh, then the glen was all in motion; + The wild beasts of the forest came, + Broke from their bughts and faulds the tame, + And gooed around, charmed and amazed; + Even the dull cattle crooned and gazed, + And murmured and looked with anxious pain + For something the mystery to explain. + The buzzard came with the throstle cock; + The corby left her houf in the rock; + The blackbird along with the eagle flew; + The hind came tripping o'er the dew; + The wolf and the kid their raike began, + And the tod, and the lamb, and the leveret ran; + The hawk and the hern attour them hung, + And the merl and the mavis forhooyed[178] their young; + And all in a peaceful ring were hurled: + It was like an eve in a sinless world! + When a month and a day had come and gane, + Kilmeny sought the greenwood wene, + There laid her down on the leaves so green, + And Kilmeny, on earth was never mair seen! + +[Footnote 167: Mother] + +[Footnote 168: Alone.] + +[Footnote 169: Blazed.] + +[Footnote 170: Lonesome flame.] + +[Footnote 171: Hollow and den.] + +[Footnote 172: Ornament.] + +[Footnote 173: Snood or headband.] + +[Footnote 174: Swelled or swept.] + +[Footnote 175: Briefly the meaning is, that in the greenwood there is a +sweet lonely place where a spiritual being wanders alone.] + +[Footnote 176: Vanished.] + +[Footnote 177: Swept or spirited away, with a rapid motion.] + +[Footnote 178: Forsook.] + +The close of "The Queen's Wake" is graceful and touching. + + Now my loved harp a while farewell; + I leave thee on the old gray thorn; + The evening dews will mar thy swell + That waked to joy the cheerful morn. + + Farewell, sweet soother of my woe, + Chill blows the blast around my head; + And louder yet that blast may blow, + When down this weary vale I've sped. + + The wreath lies on St. Mary's shore; + The mountain sounds are harsh and loud; + The lofty brows of stern Clokmore + Are visored with the moving cloud. + + But winter's deadly hues shall fade + On moorland bald and mountain shaw, + And soon the rainbow's lovely shade + Sleep on the breast of Bowerhope Law; + + Then will the glowing suns of spring, + The genial shower and stealing dew, + Wake every forest bird to sing, + And every mountain flower renew. + + But not the rainbow's ample ring, + That spans the glen and mountain gray + Though fanned by western breeze's wing, + And sunned by summer's glowing ray, + + To man decayed can ever more + Renew the age of love and glee! + Can ever second spring restore + To my old mountain harp and me. + + But when the hue of softened spring + Spreads over hill and lonely lea, + And lowly primrose opes unseen, + Her virgin bosom to the bee; + + When hawthorns breathe their odors far, + And carols hail the year's return, + And daisy spreads her silver star + Unheeded, by the mountain burn, + + Then will I seek the aged thorn, + The haunted wild and fairy ring, + Where oft thy erring numbers borne, + Have taught the wandering winds to sing. + +Hogg was unfortunate in all business transactions. But the Duchess of +Buccleugh made him a present of some seventy acres of moorland, on which +he built a pretty cottage. Here he lived during the latter years of his +life, engaged in literary labors, which he relieved by angling and field +sports, for which he had quite a passion. When he could no longer fish +and hunt, he avowed his belief that his death was near. He was seized +with a dropsical complaint in the autumn of 1835, and died, after some +days of insensibility, "with as little pain as he ever fell asleep in +his gray plaid upon the hillside." With many imperfections, he possessed +a leal Scottish heart, and has left behind him memorials of genius, +which posterity will not "let die." + +But we have arrived at the ancient town of Selkirk, on the Ettrick, +famous for its 'sutors' or shoemakers, from time immemorial burgesses +of the town, and distinguished for their loyalty. In the market-square +are a public well, ornamented with the arms of the city, and a handsome +monument erected by the county, in 1839, in memory of Sir Walter Scott, +who was sheriff of the county from 1800 to 1832. On one of its sides are +the following lines from one of his poems: + + "By Yarrow's stream still let me stray, + Though none should guide my feeble way, + Still feel the breeze down Ettrick break, + Although it chill my withered cheek." + +In the immediate neighborhood of Selkirk is Philiphaugh, the celebrated +battle-field, where General Leslie, fighting for freedom and the +Covenant, routed the fierce Montrose, who cut his way through the enemy +and fled for his life. This defeat destroyed the fruit of Montrose's six +splendid victories, and ruined the royal cause in Scotland. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + + Return to the banks of the Tweed--Abbotsford--The + Study--Biographical Sketch of Sir Walter Scott--His Early + life--Residence in the Country--Spirit of Romance--Education--First + Efforts as an Author--Success of 'Marmion'--Character of his + Poetry--Literary Change--His Novels--Pecuniary + Difficulties--Astonishing Efforts--Last Sickness--Death and + Funeral. + + +Leaving the Ettrick, we proceed once more in the direction of the Tweed, +which we soon reach. How sweetly the river winds through this wooded +region--quick and even impetuous in its flow, but so translucent that +the white pebbles at the bottom are distinctly visible. What a picture +of peaceful enjoyment is presented by that shepherd boy, leaning against +the rock, and basking himself in the sun, while his sheep are nibbling +the short grass on the edge of the water. But yonder is Abbotsford, with +its castellated walls and pointed gables, shooting up from a sylvan +declivity on the banks of the river, which almost encircles the place +with a graceful sweep, and contrasts beautifully with the deep-green +foliage of the straggling clumps of trees. But every traveller in +Scotland visits Abbotsford, and therefore we say nothing about its +singular construction, its curious ornaments, its ancient relics, its +broad-swords and battle-axes, its coats armorial, oak carvings and +blazoned windows, its old portraits and fine library. We will not +describe the door taken from the old Tolbooth in Edinburgh, nor the +pulpit from which Ralph Erskine preached; nay more, we shall not even +moralize on "the broad-skirted blue coat, with metal buttons, the plaid +trowsers, heavy shoes, broad-brimmed hat and stout walking stick," the +last worn by "the Great Magician of the north," when he took to his bed +in his last illness. We will pass, however, into his study, a room about +twenty-five feet square, containing a small writing table in the centre, +on which Sir Walter was accustomed to write, and a plain arm-chair, +covered with black leather, on which he sat. A subdued light enters from +a single window, and a few books lie on the shelves, used chiefly for +reference. By the permission of the good lady who has charge of the +house, we are permitted to seat ourselves, and linger here for an hour, +calling up the memory of the most wonderful genius that Scotland has +ever produced. + +The father of Sir Walter Scott was a writer to the Signet in Edinburgh, +an excellent and highly respectable man. His mother, Anne Rutherford, a +noble and gentle-hearted woman, was the daughter of a physician, in +extensive practice, and Professor of Medicine in the University of +Edinburgh. By both parents he was remotely connected with some ancient +and respectable Scottish families, a circumstance to which he frequently +referred with satisfaction. He was born on the 15th of August, in the +year 1771. In consequence of lameness and a delicate state of health, +produced by a fall, he was sent, in early life to Sandyknowe, a +romantic situation near Kelso, and placed under the care of his +grandfather. Here he fortified his constitution by long rambles on foot +and on horseback among the picturesque scenery and old ruins of the +neighborhood. Smallholm, a ruined tower, and the scene of Scott's +ballad, "The Eve of St. John's," was close to the farm, and beside it +were the Eildon Hills, the ruins of Ercildoune, the residence, in +ancient times, of Thomas the Rhymer, Dryburgh Abbey, the "silver Tweed," +with its storied banks, and other localities renowned in song and story. +It was here also that he delighted in supplying his memory with the +tales of his nurse, and some old grandames, deeply versed in the +traditions of the country. All these left indelible impressions on his +young imagination, and nursed the latent germ of poetry and romance, so +late, but so beautiful in its flowering. Subsequently he resided with +another relation at Kelso. Here, under the shadow of a great platanus or +oriental palm tree, in an old garden, he devoured "Percy's Reliques of +Ancient Poetry," and permitted his fancy to wander at will amid the +scenes of Border romance. This explains, in some degree, the peculiar +characteristics of his first poems, and that fine strain of romantic +feeling which runs through his tales. Speaking of this matter, he says +himself: "In early youth I had been an eager student of ballad poetry, +and the tree is still in my recollection beneath which I lay and first +entered upon the enchanting perusal of 'Percy's Reliques of Ancient +Poetry,' although it has long perished in the general blight which +affected the whole race of oriental platanus, to which it belonged. The +taste of another person had strongly encouraged my own researches into +this species of legendary lore. But I had never dreamed of an attempt to +imitate what gave me so much pleasure. Excepting the usual tribute to a +mistress's eyebrow, which is the language of passion rather than poetry, +I had not for ten years indulged the wish to couple so much as _love_ +and _dove_, when finding Lewis in possession of so much reputation, and +conceiving that, if I fell behind him in poetical powers, I considerably +exceeded him in general information, I suddenly took it into my head to +attempt the style by which he had raised himself to fame." He refers to +the same thing in the following lines: + + "Thus, while I ape the measure wild, + Of tales that charmed me--yet a child, + Rude though they be, still with the chime + Return the thoughts of early time; + And feelings roused in life's first day, + Glow in the line, and prompt the lay; + Then rise those crags, that mountain tower, + Which charmed my fancy's wakening hour. + Though no broad river swept along, + To claim perchance heroic song; + Though sigh no groves in summer gale, + To prompt of love a softer tale, + Yet was poetic impulse given + By the green hill and clear blue heaven. + It was a barren scene, and wild, + Where naked cliffs were rudely piled, + But ever and anon between + Lay velvet tufts of loveliest green; + And well the lovely infant knew + Recesses where the wall-flower grew. + And honeysuckle loved to crawl + Up the low crag and ruined wall. + I deemed such nooks the sweetest shade + The sun in all its round surveyed; + And still I thought that shattered tower + The mightiest work of human power; + And marvelled as the aged hind, + With some strange tale bewitched my mind, + Of foragers who, with headlong force + Down from that strength had spurred their horse, + Their southern rapine to renew + Far in the distant Cheviot's blue, + And home returning filled the hall, + With revel, wassail-route and brawl.-- + Methought that still with tramp and clang + The gateway's broken arches rang; + Methought grim features seamed with scars, + Glared through the window's rusty bars. + And even by the winter hearth; + Old tales I heard of woe or mirth, + Of lovers' sleights, of ladies' charms, + Of witches' spells, of warriors' arms; + Of patriot battles won of old + By Wallace wight and Bruce the bold; + Of later fields of feud and fight, + When pouring from their Highland height, + The Scottish clans in headlong sway, + Had swept the scarlet ranks away. + While stretched at length upon the floor, + Again I fought each combat e'er, + Pebbles and shells in order laid + The mimic ranks of war displayed; + And onward still the Scottish lion bore, + And still the scattered Southron fled before." + +In addition to this, young Scott was a perfect _helluo librorum_. He had +access to a large library filled with romances, histories, biographies, +and so forth, which he indiscriminately devoured. His memory was quick +and tenacious, and his mind became stored with all sorts of facts, +fables and fancies. Still, even in youth, he possessed a sound judgment, +a clear, well balanced mind, and separated the chaff from the wheat with +tolerable discrimination. His father was a good Presbyterian, and did +what he could to imbue his mind with religious principles, which never +deserted him. Among the first lines he is known to have written are the +following. They were found wrapped up in a paper inscribed by Dr. Adam +of the Edinburgh High School, 'Walter Scott, July, 1783.' + + ON THE SETTING SUN. + + Those evening clouds, that setting ray, + And beauteous tints, serve to display + Their great Creator's praise; + Then let the short-lived thing called man + Whose life's comprised within a span, + To Him his homage raise. + + We often praise the evening clouds, + And tints so gay and bold, + But seldom think upon our God, + Who tinged these clouds with gold. + +Scott was educated at the Edinburgh High School, and University. He had +an aversion to Greek, a singular fact, but made some proficiency in +Latin, moral philosophy and history. He also made himself tolerably +familiar with the French, German and Italian tongues. Being much at +home, he indulged in reading romances and poetry. From early life, he +was an industrious collector of old ballads, many of which he committed +to memory. Apprenticed to his father, as "a writer," he commenced the +study of law, and began to practice in his twenty-first year. As his +health was now vigorous, he made long excursions into the country, which +he facetiously denominated _raids_, rambling over scenes of external +beauty or of historic interest, making acquaintance with the country +people, and picking up information about men and things. By this means +he amassed an immense store of everyday facts, and an intimate knowledge +of character, which were of immense service to him in the construction +of his novels. + +Scott's first appearance as an author was in the translation from the +German of Burger's Leonore, and "Der Wilde Jaeger," or the "Wild +Huntsman," ballads of singular wildness and power. These, however, made +little impression on the public mind. Of this he says, "The failure of +my first publication did not operate, in any unpleasant degree, either +on my feelings or spirits. To speak candidly, I found pleasure in the +literary labor in which I had, almost by accident, become engaged, and +labored less in the hope of pleasing others, though certainly without +despair of doing so, than in the pursuit of a new and agreeable +amusement to myself." He continued to read the German, and to make +translations from it, and became more and more interested in the ballad +poetry. He was delighted to find the affinity of the old English, and +especially of the Scottish language to the German, not in sound merely, +but in the turn of phrase, so that they were capable of being rendered +line for line, with very little variation. + +By degrees he acquired sufficient confidence to attempt the imitation of +what he so much admired. His first original poem was "Glenfinlas." Next +followed "The Eve of St. John." Owing to unfortunate circumstances these +had no great success. Nothing daunted, however, he again appeared before +the public with his "Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border," which +immediately became popular. The success of this last work, not only +established his reputation as an author, but encouraged him to devote +himself to literary pursuits. Under appointment as Sheriff of +Selkirkshire, he enjoyed the kind of associations and employments +favorable to the cultivation of his poetical powers. Among other things, +he edited the metrical romance of "Sir Tristrem," supposed to be written +by "Thomas the Rhymer," or Thomas of Ercildoune, laird, poet and +prophet, who flourished about the year 1280. The dissertations which +accompanied this work, and the imitation of the original to complete the +romance, evinced his antiquarian attainments and fine poetical taste. At +length appeared "The Lay of the Last Minstrel," a higher, purer strain, +which was received with universal enthusiasm, and stamped him a great +and original poet. His fine conception of the minstrel, his easy +versification, his admirable narrative, his glowing pictures, his wild +ballad enthusiasm, his legendary lore, and his exquisite touches of the +marvellous and supernatural, combined to render the poem popular beyond +all precedent. Thirty thousand copies were speedily sold by the trade. +Then, in quick succession, followed that splendid series of poems, so +popular in their day, and still so interesting and delightful. +Intrinsically, they are inferior to some of the higher strains of +English poetry, but they possess certain qualities which gained the +public ear, and found a place in the national heart. These doubtless +were the novelty of their style, their natural and simple versification, +their easy, dramatic narrative, and their lively descriptions of +national scenes and manners, in contrast with the formal hexameters, +with "all their buckram and binding," of which the public had become +tired. + +Being in easy, and almost in affluent circumstances, Scott became +ambitious of founding a family. For this purpose he bought land on the +banks of the Tweed, and built Abbotsford, at a very considerable +expense. He received the order of knighthood, and looked forward to days +of ease and prosperity. Devoting himself almost entirely to literary +pursuits, he formed connections in business with James Ballantyne, then +rising into extensive business in the city of Edinburgh. This involved +the necessity of large advances, and Scott became involved in large +pecuniary responsibilities. He received an appointment as one of the +principal Clerks of the Court of Session, with perhaps six thousand +dollars per annum. This, with the gains of the printing establishment, +and other sources of revenue, would have secured to him and his family +an ample provision. + +With his customary sagacity, Sir Walter perceived that his peculiar +style of poetry would not continue popular, and therefore he betook +himself to a new field of literary enterprise, which proved still +richer, and, by far, more congenial. Then appeared his historical +novels, which became so popular, that his fame as a poet was almost +forgotten. Volume after volume came from the press, and spread like +wildfire over the land. Translated into French, German, and Italian, +they reached every part of Europe, and completely superseded the old run +of novels, with their unnatural plots and extravagant nonsense. It was +Scott's ambition to elevate this species of literature, and whatever +objections may be made against it, on the score of moral influence, this +much must be conceded to him. In his hands novel writing became +comparatively pure and dignified, nay, as some, with considerable show +of reason, contend, beneficial. The moral tone of all Sir Walter's +productions is pre-eminently pure. They are characterized by shrewd +sense, a profound insight into men and things, a keen perception of the +beautiful and brave, the generous and leal, a fine sense of honor, +reverence for God, and a deep sympathy with all the wants and woes, the +hopes and joys of our common humanity. Sir Walter is the Shakspeare of +novel writing, and if he falls below the great dramatic poet, in the +quickness and universality of his genius, he approaches him in the +soundness of his intellect, the breadth of his imagination, and the +versatility of his powers. From his Tory and High Church predilections +he has done some injustice to the old Covenanters and Puritans of +Scotland; but he possessed a noble and generous heart, a spirit of faith +and reverence, a love for God and all his creatures. His soul was +naturally blithe and joyous, hopeful and strong. He loved Scotland with +intense affection, and has spread the light of his genius over all her +hills and vales. Under the magic influence of his pen the hoary +mountains, the dark tarns and trosachs of the Highlands gleam with +supernal beauty. Tweed murmurs his name, while the Firth and Tay repeat +it through all their windings. His "own romantic town" glories in his +memory; every city, village and hamlet of the Lowlands, with strath, +meadow and moorland, echo his praise. The Genius of his country has +crowned him with the same wild wreath which erst she hung upon the head +of Burns, and the world has acknowledged the consecration. + +It was in the year 1826 that Ballantyne and Company became insolvent, +and Sir Walter Scott, in the very midst of his splendid career, found +himself involved to the amount of $600,000. But he nobly refused to +become a bankrupt, considering, says Allan Cunningham, "like the elder +Osbaldistone of his own immortal pages, commercial honor as dear as any +other honor." All he asked for was time; and in seven years he paid off +more than the half of this sum by the labors of his pen. His efforts to +accomplish this sublime purpose were gigantic, but they broke down his +constitution. "Sometime in the beginning of the year 1831," says his +friend Cunningham, "a sore illness came upon him; his astonishing +efforts to satisfy his creditors, began to exhaust a mind apparently +exhaustless; and the world heard with concern that a paralytic stroke +had affected his speech and his right hand, so much as to render writing +a matter of difficulty. One of his letters to me at this period, is not +written with his own hand: the signature is his, and looks cramped and +weak. I visited him at Abbotsford, about the end of July, 1831: he was a +degree more feeble than I had ever seen him, and his voice seemed +affected; not so his activity of fancy, and surprising resources of +conversation. He told anecdotes and recited scraps of verse, old and +new, always tending to illustrate something passing. He showed me his +armory, in which he took visible pleasure; and was glad to hear me +commend the design of his house, as well as the skill with which it was +built. * * * In a small room, half library and half armory, he usually +sat and wrote: here he had some remarkable weapons, curious pieces of +old Scottish furniture, such as chairs and cabinets, and an antique sort +of a table, on which lay his writing materials. A crooked headed staff +of Abbotsford oak or hazel usually lay beside him to support his steps +as he went and came." + +"When it was known," continues Cunningham, "that Sir Walter Scott's +health declined, the deep solicitude of all ranks became manifest; +strangers came from far lands to look on the house which contained the +great genius of our times; inquirers flocked around, of humble and of +high degree, and the amount of letters of inquiry or condolence was, I +have heard, enormous. Amongst the visitors, not the least welcome was +Wordsworth, the poet, who arrived when the air of the northern hills was +growing too sharp for the enfeebled frame of Scott, and he had resolved +to try if the fine air and climate of Italy would restore him to health +and strength. + +"When Government heard of Sir Walter's wishes, they offered him a ship; +he left Abbotsford as many thought forever, and arrived in London, where +he was welcomed as never mortal was welcomed before. He visited several +friends, nor did he refuse to mingle in company, and having written +something almost approaching to a farewell to the world, which was +published with 'Castle Dangerous,' the last of his works, he set sail +for Italy, with the purpose of touching at Malta. He seemed revived, but +it was only for a while: he visited Naples, but could not enjoy the high +honors paid to him: he visited Rome, and sighed amid its splendid +temples and glorious works of art, for gray Melrose and the pleasant +banks of Tweed, and passing out of Italy, proceeded homewards down the +Rhine. Word came to London, that a dreadful attack of paralysis had +nearly deprived him of life, and that but for the presence of mind of a +faithful servant he must have perished. This alarming news was followed +by his arrival in London: a strong desire of home had come upon him; he +travelled with rapidity, night and day, and was all but worn out, when +carried into St. James's Hotel, Jermyn street, by his servants." + +As soon as he recovered a little, he resumed his journey to Scotland, +reached Abbotsford, and seemed revived, smiled when he was borne into +his library, and enjoyed the society of his children. When he was +leaving London the people, wherever he was recognized, took off their +hats, saying, "God bless you, Sir Walter!" His arrival in Scotland was +hailed with equal enthusiasm and sympathy; and so much was he revived +that hopes were entertained of his recovery. But he gradually declined, +listening occasionally to passages from the Bible, and from the poems of +Crabbe and Wordsworth. Once he tried to write, but failed in the +attempt. "He never spoke of his literary labors or success." +Occasionally his mind wandered, and then he was preparing for the +reception of the Duke of Wellington at Abbotsford, or exercising the +functions of a judge, as if presiding at the trial of members of his own +family. It may be regarded as a singular fact, that in his delirium, his +mind never wandered toward those works which had filled the world with +his fame. But the flame of life now flickered feebly in its socket, and +gave unerring indications of its speedy extinction. "About half past +one, P. M.," says Mr. Lockhart, his son-in-law and biographer, "on the +21st of September, 1832, Sir Walter breathed his last, in the presence +of all his children. It was a beautiful day--so warm that every window +was open--and so perfectly still that the sound, of all others most +delicious to his ear, the gentle ripple of the Tweed over its pebbles, +was distinctly audible, as we knelt around his bed, and his eldest son +kissed and closed his eyes." + +The remains of Sir Walter were buried in Dryburgh Abbey. "As we +advanced," says one who was present at the funeral, which was conducted +with the greatest simplicity and solemnity, "the ruined abbey disclosed +itself through the trees; and we approached its western extremity, where +a considerable portion of vaulted roof still remains to protect the +poet's family place of interment, which opens to the sides in lofty +Gothic arches, and is defended by a low rail of enclosure. At one +extremity of it, a tall thriving young cypress rears its spiral form. +Creeping plants of different kinds, 'with ivy never sere,' have spread +themselves very luxuriantly over every part of the Abbey. These perhaps +were in many instances the children of art; but however this may have +been, nature had herself undertaken their education. In this spot +especially, she seems to have been most industriously busy in twining +her richest wreaths around those walls which more immediately form her +poet's tomb. Amongst her other decorations, we observed a plum tree, +which was perhaps at one period a prisoner, chained to the solid +masonry, but which having long since been emancipated, now threw out its +wild pendent branches, laden with purple fruit, ready to drop, as if +emblematical of the ripening and decay of human life. + +"In such a scene as this, then, it was that the coffin of Sir Walter +Scott was set down on trestles placed outside the iron railing; and here +that solemn service, beginning with those words, so cheering to the +souls of Christians, 'I am the resurrection and the life,' was solemnly +read. The manly soldier-like features of the chief mourner, on whom the +eyes of sympathy were most naturally turned, betrayed at intervals the +powerful efforts which he had made to master his emotions, as well as +the inefficiency of his exertions to do so. The other relatives who +surrounded the bier were deeply moved; and amid the crowd of weeping +friends, no eye, and no heart could be discovered that was not +altogether occupied in that sad and impressive ceremonial, which was so +soon to shut from them forever, him who had been so long the common idol +of their admiration, and of their best affections. Here and there, +indeed, we might have fancied that we detected some early and long tried +friends of him who lay cold before us, who, whilst tears dimmed their +eyes, and whilst their lips quivered, were yet partly engaged in mixing +up and contrasting the happier scenes of days long gone by, with that +which they were now witnessing, until they became lost in dreamy +reverie, so that even the movement made when the coffin was carried +under the lofty arches of the ruin, and when _dust was committed to +dust_, did not entirely snap the thread of their visions. It was not +until the harsh sound of the hammers of the workmen who were employed to +rivet those iron bars covering the grave, to secure it from violation, +had begun to echo from the vaulted roof, that some of us were called to +the full conviction of the fact, that the earth had forever closed over +that form which we were wont to love and reverence; that eye which we +had so often seen beaming with benevolence, sparkling with wit, or +lighted up with a poet's frenzy; those lips which we had so often seen +monopolizing the attention of all listeners, or heard rolling out, with +nervous accentuation, those powerful verses with which his head was +continually teeming; and that brow, the perpetual throne of generous +expression, and liberal intelligence. Overwhelmed by the conviction of +this afflicting truth, men moved away without parting salutation, +singly, slowly, and silently. The day began to stoop down into twilight; +and we, too, after giving a last parting survey to the spot where now +repose the remains of our Scottish Shakspeare, a spot lovely enough to +induce his sainted spirit to haunt and sanctify its shades, hastily tore +ourselves away." + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + + Melrose Abbey--The Eildon Hills--Thomas the + Rhymer--Dryburgh--Monuments to the Author of 'The Seasons' and Sir + William Wallace--Kelso--Beautiful scenery--A Pleasant + Evening--Biographical Sketch of Leyden, Poet, Antiquary, Scholar + and Traveller--The Duncan Family--Journey Resumed--Twisel + Bridge--Battle of Flodden--Norham Castle--Berwick upon + Tweed--Biographical Sketch of Thomas Mackay Wilson, author of 'The + Border Tales'--Conclusion--'Auld Lang Syne.' + + +After visiting "fair Melrose," whose rains, rising in the centre of a +rich landscape, and rendered immortal by the exquisite descriptions of +Sir Walter Scott, are the most interesting and beautiful of any in +Scotland;--wandering over the Eildon Hills, the Trimontium of the +Romans, from the summits of which some thirty miles of wild and varied +scenery can be surveyed; gazing on the ruins of Ercildoune, the +manor-house of Thomas the Rhymer, whose real name was Thomas Learmont, +author of "The Romance of Tristan," a poem of the thirteenth century, in +the language of antique Chaucer; lingering in Dryburgh Abbey, embosomed +in a richly wooded haugh on the banks of the Tweed; and especially +gazing, in reverent homage, on the grave of "the Great Magician of the +North," in St. Mary's Aisle, so sad and yet so fair; crossing the Tweed, +and pausing a few moments, to examine a circular temple on the banks of +the river, dedicated to the Muses, and surmounted by a bust of Thomson, +author of "The Seasons," and a little further on the colossal statue of +Sir William Wallace, the hero of Scotland, which stands upon a rocky +eminence and overlooks the river, and a fine prospect of "wood and +water, mountain and rock scenery," we pass along the banks of the Tweed, +till we come to the handsome town of Kelso, on the margin of the river, +with its ancient Abbey and delightful environs. + +As the day is far spent, we will stay here for the night. But, before +the sun goes down, let us wander over the neighborhood, which is +singularly beautiful, and redolent with the genius of Scott and of +Leyden, who has described it in his "Scenes of Infancy." + + "Bosom'd in woods where mighty rivers run, + Kelso's fair vale expands before the sun; + Its rising downs in vernal beauty swell, + And fringed with hazel, winds each flowery dell, + Green spangled plains to dimpled lawns succeed, + And Tempe rises on the banks of Tweed: + Blue o'er the river Kelso's shadow lies, + And copse-clad isles amid the water rise." + +As the view from the bridge which spans the river is said to be one of +the richest in Scotland, we linger there till the sun goes down. 'Tis a +soft, still, summer afternoon, beginning to glide into the long and +beautiful twilight. The rays of the sun are yet upon the mountains, and +tinge the summits of the woods, the rocks, and the castellated edifices, +which adorn the landscape. The Tweed is gliding, in shadow, through the +wooded vale, and the songs of the mavis and blackbird are echoing among +the trees. A little above the bridge the clear waters of the Teviot and +the Tweed flow together, as if attracted by each other's beauty. Beyond +are the picturesque ruins of Roxburgh Castle, and somewhat nearer the +ducal palace of Fleurs, rising amid a rich expanse of wooded +decorations, sloping down to the very margin of the river; in front are +gleaming two green islets of the Tweed, and between that river and the +Teviot reposes the beautiful peninsula of Friar's Green, with the soft +meadow in its foreground. On the south bank of the river are the mansion +and woods of Springwood Park, and the bridge across the Teviot, on which +are reposing the mellow rays of the setting sun. On the right the town +lies along the bank of the river, with its elegant mansions and +venerable abbey. There too is Ednam House, near which the poet Thomson +had his birth. Far beyond these, the eye rests pleasantly on "the triple +summits" of the Eildon Hills, looking down protectingly upon the vale of +Tweed, the hills of Stitchell and Mellerstain, and the striking ruin of +Home Castle, still arrayed in the purple and gold of departing day. +Intermingled with all these are the windings and rippling currents of +the river, clumps of rich green foliage, orchards laden with fruit, +tufted rocks, verdant slopes, single trees of lofty stature, standing +out from the rest, in the pride and pomp of their "leafy umbrage," +cattle browsing peacefully on the banks of the stream, here and there a +sylvan cottage, and an infinite variety of light and shade, of blending +colors and changing forms, hallowed, moreover, by the hoary memories and +poetical associations of by-gone days. No wonder that Leyden loved to +wander in such scenes, or that Scott, a more transcendent genius, should +have ascribed to this influence the awakening in his soul "of that +insatiable love of natural scenery, more especially when combined with +ancient ruins, or remains of our fathers' piety and splendor," which +gave a charm to his life, and imparted to the productions of his genius +a warmth and richness of coloring unequalled in the history of +literature. + +But it is time to return to our comfortable hotel in Kelso, where mine +host, who is an honest, round-faced, rosy-cheeked, good-natured Scot, +will give us good cheer for supper, and a bed soft as down upon which to +repose our weary limbs. + +Well now, this is pleasant! Here in this snug room, with a cheerful cup +of tea, and such toast, broiled chicken, and other edibles, as mine host +only can produce, we feel as easy and independent as kings, aye, and a +great deal more so; for who so satisfied and happy as the man, whatever +his estate, who has a clear conscience, a mind brimful of sweet +memories, a heart grateful to God and attached to those he loves? Let +any person only do what is right, trust in God, enjoy nature, cultivate +his mind, exercise his body, and he may secure as much happiness as +falls to the lot of mortals. Trials may come, but joys will come also. +All things shall "work together for good." + +But it is easy moralizing over a good cup of tea, with a cheerful fire +blazing in the grate, and a soft bed in prospect for weary limbs. +Moreover, I promised to give you some account of Leyden, poet and +antiquary, scholar and traveler. + +John Leyden was born in 1775, in Denholm, Roxburghshire, not far from +Kelso, of poor but honest parents. He displayed in early life the most +eager desire for learning, but possessed few opportunities for +gratifying it, as he had to spend much of his time in manual toil. His +parents, however, seeing his thirst for knowledge, resolved to send him +to Edinburgh University. He entered this institution in his fifteenth +year, and made unusual progress in his studies. He distinguished himself +in the Latin and Greek languages, acquired the French, Spanish, Italian +and German, besides forming some acquaintance with the Hebrew, Arabic +and Persian. During his college vacations he returned to the humble roof +of his parents, and as the accommodations of the house were scanty, he +looked for a place of study elsewhere. "In a wild recess," says Sir +Walter Scott, who has furnished an animated biography of Leyden, "in the +den or glen which gives name to the village of Denholm, he contrived a +sort of furnace for the purpose of such chemical experiments as he was +adequate to performing. But his chief place of retirement was the small +parish church, a gloomy and ancient building, generally believed in the +neighborhood to be haunted. To this chosen place of study, usually +locked during week days, Leyden made entrance by means of a window, +read there for many hours in the day, and deposited his books and +specimens in a retired pew. It was a well chosen spot for seclusion, for +the kirk, (excepting during divine service,) is rather a place of terror +to the Scottish rustic, and that of Cavers was rendered more so by many +a tale of ghosts and witchcraft, of which it was the supposed scene, and +to which Leyden, partly to indulge his humor, and partly to secure his +retirement, contrived to make some modern additions. The nature of his +abstruse studies, some specimens of natural history, as toads and +adders, left exposed in their spirit vials, and one or two practical +jests played off upon the more curious of the peasantry, rendered his +gloomy haunt, not only venerated by the wise, but feared by the simple +of the parish." + +Leyden was originally intended for the clerical profession, but +abandoned it for more secular employments. His spirit was intense, +restless and ambitious, and he longed for foreign travel and literary +distinction. After spending five years at college, he became tutor to a +highly respectable family, with whose sons he repaired to the University +of St. Andrews, where he pursued his Oriental studies, and in 1799 +published a History of African Discoveries. He was the author, also, of +various translations and poems, which attracted considerable attention +and introduced him to the best society. In 1800 he was ordained as a +minister, and his discourses were highly popular; but he was +dissatisfied with them, and felt that he was called to a different +sphere. He continued to write and compose, contributed to Lewis's "Tales +of Wonder," and Scott's "Border Minstrelsy." He was an enthusiastic +admirer of the old ballads, and on one occasion actually walked between +forty and fifty miles for the sole purpose of visiting an old person who +possessed an ancient historical ballad. He edited the "Scot's Magazine," +for a year, and published "The Complaynt of Scotland," an old work +written about 1548, which he accompanied with a learned dissertation, +notes and a glossary. His strong desire to visit foreign lands induced +his friends to procure for him an appointment in India, where he might +study the oriental languages and literature. The only situation which +they found available was that of assistant surgeon, for which it was +necessary to have a medical diploma. But such was the energy, decision +and perseverance of Leyden's character, that he qualified himself in six +months; and not long after set out for Madras. Before taking his +departure he finished his "Scenes of Infancy," as it were, the last +token of his love for Scotland, which he never again beheld. He was +resolved to distinguish himself or die in the attempt. Indeed a +premonition of such an issue seems to have haunted his mind, and was +expressed, with touching beauty, in his "Scenes of Infancy." + + "The silver moon at midnight cold and still, + Looks sad and silent o'er yon western hill; + While large and pale the ghostly structures grow, + Reared on the confines of the world below. + Is that dull sound the hum of Teviot's stream? + Is that blue light the moon's or tomb-fire's gleam? + By which a mouldering pile is faintly seen, + The old deserted church of Hazeldean, + Where slept my fathers in their natal clay, + Till Teviot's waters rolled their bones away? + Their feeble voices from their stream they raise-- + 'Rash youth! unmindful of thy early days, + Why didst thou quit the simple peasant's lot? + Why didst thou leave the peasant's turf-built cot, + The ancient graves where all thy fathers lie, + And Teviot's stream that long has murmur'd by? + And we, when death so long has clos'd our eyes, + How wilt thou bid us from the dust arise, + And bear our mouldering bones across the main. + From vales that knew our lives devoid of stain? + Rash youth! beware, thy home-bred virtues save, + And sweetly sleep in thy paternal grave.'" + +After his arrival in Madras, his health became impaired, and he removed +to Prince of Wales Island. He resided there some time, visiting the +neighboring countries, and amassing curious information on the +literature and history of the Indo-Chinese, which he embodied in an +elaborate dissertation read before the Asiatic Society at Calcutta. +Quitting Prince of Wales Island, Leyden was appointed a professor in the +Bengal College, which he soon exchanged for the office of judge, a more +lucrative employment. His spare time was devoted to the prosecution of +his oriental studies. "I may die in the attempt," he wrote to a friend, +"but if I die without surpassing Sir William Jones a hundredfold in +oriental learning, let never a tear for me profane the eye of a +borderer." In 1811 he accompanied the governor general to Java. His +spirit of bold adventure led him literally to rush upon death. He threw +himself into the surf in order to be the first Briton who should set +foot upon Java. When the invaders had taken possession of Batavia, the +same reckless eagerness took him into a cold damp library, in which were +many books and manuscripts. Affected perhaps by the disease of the +climate he had a fit of shivering on leaving the library, and declared +that the atmosphere was enough to give any one a mortal fever. In three +days after he died, August 28, 1811, on the eve of the battle which +secured Java to the British Empire. + +Leyden's Poetical Remains were published in 1819, with a memoir. In +addition to the "Scenes of Infancy," it contains some vigorous ballads. +To one of these, "The Mermaid," as well as to the untimely death of its +author, Sir Walter Scott has referred in his "Lord of the Isles." + + "Scarba's Isle, whose tortured shore + Still rings to Corrievreckin's roar, + And lovely Colonsay; + Scenes sung by him who sings no more: + His bright and brief career is o'er, + And mute his tuneful strains; + Quenched is his lamp of varied lore, + That loved the light of song to pour: + A distant and a deadly shore + Has Leyden's cold remains." + +His "Scenes of Infancy" is distinguished for the sweetness of its +versification, and its pleasant pictures of the vale of Teviot. In +strength and enthusiasm, it is much inferior to his ballads. The +opening of "The Mermaid," has been praised by Sir Walter Scott "as +exhibiting a power of numbers, which for mere melody of sound has rarely +been excelled." + + On Jura's heath how sweetly swell + The murmurs of the mountain bee! + How softly, mourns the writh'd shell, + Of Jura's shore, its parent sea. + + But softer, floating o'er the deep, + The mermaid's sweet, sea-soothing lay, + That charmed the dancing waves to sleep, + Before the bark of Colonsay. + +But better known, and far more affecting, is Leyden's "Ode to an Indian +Gold Coin," written in Cherical, Malabar, which in addition to its vigor +and beauty, has a fine moral which it is not necessary to point out. + + Slave of the dark and dirty mine! + What vanity has brought thee here? + How can I love to see thee shine + So bright, whom I have bought so dear? + The tent-ropes flapping lone I hear, + For twilight converse arm in arm; + The jackal's shriek bursts on my ear, + When mirth and music wont to cheer. + + By Cherical's dark wandering streams, + Where cane-tufts shadow all the wild, + Sweet visions haunt my waking dreams + Of Teviot loved while still a child; + Of castled rocks stupendous piled + By Esk or Eden's classic wave, + Where loves of youth and friendship smiled + Uncursed by thee, vile yellow slave! + + Fade, day-dreams sweet, from memory fade! + The perished bliss of youth's first prime, + That once so bright on fancy played, + Revives no more in after time. + Far from my sacred natal clime + I haste to an untimely grave; + The daring thoughts that soared sublime + Are sunk in ocean's southern wave. + + Slave of the mine, thy yellow light + Gleams baleful as the tomb-fire drear. + A gentle vision comes by night + My lonely widowed heart to cheer. + Her eyes are dim with many a tear, + That once were guiding-stars to mine; + Her fond heart throbs with many a fear! + I cannot bear to see thee shine. + + For thee, for thee, vile yellow slave, + I left a heart that loved me true! + I crossed the tedious ocean wave, + To roam in climes unkind and new. + The cold wind of the stranger blew + Chill on my withered heart; the grave + Dark and untimely met my view-- + And all for thee, vile yellow slave! + + Ha! com'st thou now so late to mock + A wanderer's banished heart forlorn, + Now that his frame, the lightning shock + Of sun-rays tipt with death has borne? + From love, from friendship, country, torn, + To memory's fond regrets the prey: + Vile slave, thy yellow dross I scorn! + Go mix thee with thy kindred clay! + +While conversing about Leyden, we must not forget a gentler, purer +spirit, Mary Lundie Duncan, who first saw the light "amid the blossoms +of Kelso," and whose young heart first warbled its poetic strains on the +banks of the Tweed. Her "Memoir," by her gifted mother, is one of the +most beautiful and touching biographies in the English language. +Possessed of genius and piety, at once pure and tender, her brief life +was the fair but changeful spring-time which preceded the long summer of +eternity. + + Sweet bird of Scotia's tuneful clime, + So beautiful and dear, + Whose music gushed as genius taught, + With Heaven's own quenchless spirit fraught, + I list--thy strain to hear. + + Bright flower on Kelso's bosom born, + When spring her glories shed, + Where Tweed flows on in silver sheen, + And Tiviot feeds her valleys green, + I cannot think thee dead. + + Fair child--whose rich unfoldings gave + A promise rare and true, + The parent's proudest thoughts to cheer, + And soothe of widowed woe the tear,-- + Why hid'st thou from our view? + + Young bride, whose wildest thrill of hope + Bowed the pure brow in prayer, + Whose ardent zeal and saintly grace, + Did make the manse a holy place, + We search--thou art not there. + + Fond mother, they who taught thy joys + To sparkle up so high; + Thy first born, and her brother dear + Catch charms from every fleeting year:-- + Where is thy glistening eye? + + Meek Christian, it is well with thee, + That where thy heart so long + Was garnered up, thy home should be;-- + Thy path with Him who made thee free;-- + Thy lay--an angel's song. + + _Lydia H. Sigourney._ + +Some of Mary Lundie Duncan's poems are characterized not merely by +purity and elevation of sentiment, but by sweetness and melody of +versification. The following written at "Callander," though not without +defects, indicates the possession of true poetical genius. + + How pure the light on yonder hills, + How soft the shadows lie; + How blythe each morning sound that fills + The air with melody! + + Those hills, that rest in solemn calm + Above the strife of men, + Are bathed in breezy gales of balm + From knoll and heathy glen. + + In converse with the silent sky, + They mock the flight of years; + While man and all his labors die + Low in this vale of tears. + + Meet emblem of eternal rest, + They point their summits grey + To the fair regions of the blest, + Where tends our pilgrim way. + + The everlasting mountains there + Reflect undying light; + The ray which gilds that ambient air, + Nor fades, nor sets in night. + + Then summer sun more piercing bright. + That beam is milder too; + For love is in the sacred light + That softens every hue. + + The gale that fans the peaceful clime + Is life's immortal breath, + Its freshness makes the sons of time + Forget disease and death. + + And shall we tread that holy ground, + And breathe that fragrant air; + And view the fields with glory crowned + In cloudless beauty fair? + + * * * * * + + Look up! look up, to yonder light, + That cheers the desert grey: + It marks the close of toil and night, + The dawn of endless day. + + How sweet your choral hymns will blend + With harps of heavenly tone; + When glad you sing your journey's end + Around your Father's throne. + +Mary's contributions to "The Philosophy of the Seasons," over the +signature of M. L. D., such as "The Rose," "The Bat," "Sabbath Morning," +an "Autumnal Sabbath Evening," are simple and elegant, indicating the +possession of good sense and a refined imagination. Like her brother +Archibald Lundie, who went to the South Sea Islands in order to benefit +his health, and to labor in the sublime work of Christian missions, Mary +passed away in the morning of her days, but not without leaving a +blessed fragrance behind her, which yet lingers, not over Scotland +alone, but over the whole Christian world. And well might her stricken +yet resigned and hopeful mother say, in the words quoted at the close of +her daughter's _Memoir_: + + "I know thou art gone where thy forehead is starred + With the beauty that dwelt in thy soul; + Where the light of thy loveliness cannot be marred, + Nor thy heart be flung back from its gaol: + I know thou hast drank of the Lethe that flows + Through a land where they do not forget; + That sheds over memory only repose; + And takes from it only regret. + + "And though like a mourner that sits by a tomb, + I am wrapt in a mantle of care; + Yet the grief of my bosom--oh! call it not gloom-- + Is not the black grief of despair. + By sorrow revealed, as the stars are by night, + Far off thy bright vision appears; + And hope like the rainbow, a creature of light, + Is born like the rainbow--in tears." + + _J. K. Hervey._ + +The Duncan family to which Mary Lundie, by her marriage with one of the +sons, belonged, is one of the most interesting in Scotland. All of its +members seem possessed of fine talents, devoted piety, and generous +affections. Two of the sons, with the father, were ministers of the +established church of Scotland at the time of the secession of the Free +Church from that body, and made a sacrifice, for conscience' sake, of +agreeable situations and handsome incomes. Without the slightest +hesitation, and without a murmur even, they abandoned their beautiful +manses, their churches and people, and threw themselves, with their +brethren of the Free Church, upon the providence of God, not knowing +what might be the issues of that sublime movement. "The Philosophy of +the Seasons,"[179] though written mainly by the father, the Rev. Dr. +Duncan of Ruthwell, received contributions from all the members of the +family, and remains a splendid monument of their talents, piety and +mutual affection. It is fast becoming a classic. Filled with +information, and imbued with a spirit of fervid piety, and, moreover, +written in a lucid, flowing style, it is well fitted at once to instruct +and please. + +[Footnote 179: Published by R. Carter, in four handsome octavos.] + +As Dr. Duncan has recently deceased, a brief sketch of his life may not +be uninteresting in this connection. + +Dr. Henry Duncan was "a son of the Manse." He was born in 1774, at +Lochrutton, in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, of which his father and +his grandfather were ministers successively, during a period of eighty +years, a striking instance of pastoral permanence. If wealth consists +"in the number of things we love," then those good men must have been +rich beyond the common lot of ministers; and young Henry must have +received from them a rich heritage of blessings. He was educated at the +Universities of St. Andrews, Glasgow, and Edinburgh. While attending the +latter he was a member of the "Speculative Society," to which many of +the most distinguished literary characters belonged, and associated +freely with Lord Brougham, the Marquis of Landsdowne, Dr. Andrew Thomson +and others. He became the pastor of the Established church in Ruthwell, +Dumfriesshire, where he labored with great success for many years. He +died in the forty-seventh year of his ministry. + +Dr. Duncan was imbued with a spirit of enlarged Christian benevolence, +and felt a peculiar interest in the amelioration of the condition of +the poorer classes. Hence he formed the scheme of the "Cheap Repository +Tracts," addressed to the working classes, and designed to enforce the +most useful lessons suited to their condition. It was in this collection +that his "Cottage Fireside" was first published, a production which +became exceedingly popular, and passed through many editions. The book +abounds in happy delineations of Scottish manners, fine strokes of +humor, and admirable lessons of practical wisdom. "The South Country +Weaver," possesses the same qualities and aims; and, in a time of +excessive political excitement, did much to allay the discontent and +revolutionary tendency of the people. He is also said to be the author +of another work of a higher grade, written in the same style of +fictitious narrative, and intended to vindicate the principles and +proceedings of the Scottish Covenanters, from the aspersions cast upon +them by the author of Waverley. This production has been highly esteemed +by good judges of literary merit, but it never became popular. + +It may well be supposed that Dr. Duncan felt a peculiar interest, not +only in the spiritual but also in the temporal condition of his own +parish, and hence he was ever devising plans for its benefit. In this +respect he much resembled the benevolent Oberlin, whose well directed +schemes turned the barren parish of Waldbach into a little paradise. +Entering upon the duties of his charge at a time of national scarcity +and distress, he imported from Liverpool, at considerable expense, and +with great personal inconvenience, large quantities of food which he +distributed among his poor parishioners He also devised new modes and +sources of employment, and cheered them amid their privations by his +counsel and sympathy. He instituted among them two admirable "Friendly +Societies," one for males and another for females, the advantages of +which are enjoyed to this day. But perhaps his highest claim to +distinction as a philanthropist was the establishment of "The Ruthwell +Parish Bank," the first "Savings Bank" in Europe, which, it is said, was +suggested to him partly by the beneficial results and partly by the +admitted defects of the Friendly Societies. His undoubted title to be +regarded as the originator of "Savings Banks," has been acknowledged by +the highest authorities; but it is not so generally known at what an +immense expenditure of time, talent, energy and pecuniary means he +succeeded in accomplishing this good object. + +Dr. Duncan's learning and talents were of a high order, and these were +devoted exclusively to the benefit of his fellow men. His principal +literary work, "The Sacred Philosophy of the Seasons," was planned and +written in a single year, an astonishing instance of mental energy, +industry and talent. "Never were the different kingdoms and varying +aspects of nature, the characteristics of the seasons, and all the grand +and beautiful phenomena of the year, more philosophically and more +eloquently described than in this charming book. The comprehensive views +of the philosopher, the poetic feeling of the lover of nature, and the +pious reflection of the Christian divine, are all combined in its pages, +and win at once the admiration and affection of the reader." Here genius +and piety, the love of nature and the love of God spread their sunlight +over the face of creation, and make visible to all reverent and +thoughtful minds + + "The Gospel of the stars--great Nature's Holy Writ." + +As a preacher Dr. Duncan was interesting and instructive, but not +particularly striking and popular. In 1839 he was elected Moderator of +the General Assembly, the highest honor the church could confer. Warmly +attached to evangelical religion, and deeply interested in the purity +and progress of the church of Christ throughout the world, he earnestly +promoted the cause of Christian missions, and kindred schemes of +benevolence. He was intimately associated with Dr. Chalmers and others, +in sustaining the great principles of vital Christianity, the supremacy +of Christ in his own church, and particularly the freedom and +independence of his ministers. "True, therefore, to the principles he +had espoused, and ever warmly defended--true to what he considered the +genuine constitution of the Scottish church, this venerable and amiable +father left, in the ever memorable year 1843, that manse, which he had +inhabited for four and forty long and happy years, and which his own +fine taste had so greatly beautified and adorned--that hallowed home in +which his dutiful and attached children had been reared--in which his +first beloved wife had died, and which was associated with many +delightful recollections of joy and kindness, and prayer, indelibly +engraven on many hearts--for _there_ was many a young idea fostered, and +many a guest and many a stranger hospitably entertained. But with a +cloud of many eminent witnesses, whose names will be embalmed in the +records of their country, Dr. Duncan lifted up his testimony for the +glorious prerogative of Zion's King, and counted the reproach of Christ +greater riches than all the treasures of earth. And actuated by the same +spirit of faith as the martyrs and confessors of other days--the men of +whom the world was not worthy--he abandoned, at an advanced age, all the +comforts of his lovely and endeared home, and all the emoluments and +delights connected with it, and meekly took up his lowly dwelling in an +humble cottage by the way-side, willingly enduring hardship, and +submitting to ingratitude from man, that he might honor his God and hold +fast his integrity, dearer to him than life. He was one of seven +moderators of the old General Assembly, men like himself of high name +and holy deeds, who sacrificed all their honors and emoluments, and cast +in their lot with the Free Church of Scotland, that they might display a +banner for the truth, and who, when driven by a cruel and miserable +policy from those altars which they sanctified, went forth, a veteran +band of Christian heroes, and preached the Gospel of peace and salvation +under the broad canopy of heaven, with gray hairs streaming in the +breeze." + +During the summer of 1843 Dr. Duncan preached in the open air, but +finally succeeded by great efforts, in securing a site, and erecting +upon it a church and a manse, a school and a schoolmaster's house. A +suitable successor was appointed to this charge, and Dr. Duncan removed +his residence to the city of Edinburgh. But his affections lingered +around his beloved Ruthwell, and he undertook a journey to England to +secure funds to pay off the debt upon the new buildings and bring them +to a state of completion. Having accomplished his object, he returned to +Scotland in excellent spirits, and reached Comlogan Castle, the +residence of his brother-in-law. On that and the succeeding day he +occupied himself in laying out the grounds about the manse and giving +directions respecting the buildings. On the following Sabbath he +preached to an overflowing audience. Monday and Tuesday were devoted to +visiting his old parishioners. He was invited to address a prayer +meeting at the house of an elder of the Established church, and it was +while engaged in the performance of that duty that the messenger of +Death met him. He had not spoken ten minutes, when his voice trembled, +his body shuddered, and it was evident to all that he was struck with a +sudden paralysis. He was immediately conveyed to Comlogan Castle. "On +his way, though his speech was much affected, his consciousness was +entire, and he repeatedly lifted up his hand, in devout admiration of +God's beautiful works, for the moon, surrounded by thousands of stars, +was shedding its calm and chastened lustre over the face of Nature, and +presented a meet emblem of the inward peace of the dying saint, whose +characteristic taste and love of Nature's beauties were still manifested +even in this trying hour."[180] After two days, in which he suffered +little pain, he gently "fell asleep in Jesus," on Thursday evening, 12th +of February, 1846. + +[Footnote 180: "Dumfries Advertiser and Galloway Standard," from which +we quoted a preceding extract.] + + Behold the western evening light, + It melts in deepening gloom; + So calmly Christians sink away, + Descending to the tomb. + + The winds breathe low; the yellow leaf + Scarce whispers from the tree; + So gently flows the parting breath, + When good men cease to be. + + How beautiful on all the hills, + The crimson light is shed! + 'Tis like the peace the Christian gives + To mourners round his bed. + + How mildly on the wandering cloud + The sunset beam is cast! + So sweet the memory left behind, + Where loved ones breathe their last + + And lo! above the dews of night + The vesper star appears; + So faith lights up the mourner's heart, + Whose eyes are dim with tears. + + Night falls, but soon the morning light + Its glories shall restore; + And thus the eyes that sleep in death + Shall wake to close no more. + + _Peabody._ + +Daylight is on the hills, and we are off once more down the Tweed, which +gathers volume by accessions from tributary streams, and mirrors in its +clear bosom many a happy home, nestling among the trees on its banks. We +pass Coldstream, on the north bank of the Tweed, from its proximity to +England a sort of Gretna Green in former times, where Lord Brougham was +married at one of the hotels; whence we journey to Tillmouth; at which +place the Till, a narrow, deep, sullen stream, flows into the Tweed. +Beneath Twisel Castle, which stands upon its banks, you see the ancient +bridge by which the English crossed the Till before the battle of +Flodden. + + --"They cross'd + The Till, by Twisel Bridge. + High sight it is, and haughty, while + They drew into the deep defile; + Beneath the cavern'd cliff they fall, + Beneath the castle's airy wall. + By rock, by oak, by hawthorn-tree, + Troop after troop are disappearing; + Troop after troop their banners rearing, + Upon the eastern bank you see, + Still pouring down the rocky den + Where flows the sullen Till, + And rising from the dim wood glen + Standards on standards, men on men + In slow succession still, + And sweeping o'er the Gothic arch, + And passing on, in ceaseless march + To gain the opposing hill." + + _Marmion._ + +Flodden Field, on which the "flowers of the forest," were cut down so +mercilessly, is not far from here, and the whole region seems invested +with an air of "dule and wae." + + "Dule and wae for the order sent our lads to the Border! + The English, for once by guile won the day; + The Flowers of the Forest, that focht aye the foremost. + The prime o' our land are cauld in the clay. + + "We hear nae mair lilting at our yowe-milking, + Women and bairns are heartless and wae; + Sighing and moaning on ilka green loaning-- + The Flowers of the Forest are a' wede away."[181] + +[Footnote 181: "The Flowers of the Forest," by Miss Jane Elliot, one of +the sweetest and most affecting ballads of Scotland. By the 'Flowers of +the Forest' are meant the young men of Ettrick Forest, slain at Flodden +Field.] + +Pursuing our way, we come to Norham Castle, so magnificently described +in Marmion. + + "Day set on Norham's castle steep, + And Tweed's fair river broad and deep, + And Cheviot's mountains lone; + The battled towers, the donjon keep, + The loop-hole grates where captives weep, + The flanking walls that round it sweep, + In yellow lustre shone." + +Nine miles further on, we arrive at "Berwick upon Tweed," where the +river falls into the German Ocean, and where our wanderings in Scotland +cease,--the scene of fierce struggles between the Scots and English. +North Berwick was sometimes in the hands of the one, sometimes in the +hands of the other. Its streets often ran blood; its walls echoed the +tramp of armies, the shrieks of the wounded and the groans of the dying. +Its old ramparts are yet standing; but all is quiet and passionless +now. A sort of stillness pervades the place, in striking contrast with +the havoc and turmoil of the ancient Border wars. The environs are full +of historic recollections, which have been well illustrated in the +"Border Tales," by John Mackie Wilson, who was a native of Berwick, and +resided here till his death. This event took place, suddenly and +unexpectedly, on the 2d of September, 1835, when he was only thirty-one +years of age. His early days were spent, in peace and happiness, under +the parental roof. At school he was distinguished for his love of +knowledge, and the rapidity with which he executed all his tasks. At a +suitable age he was apprenticed to a printer, and found the employment +congenial, as it brought him into contact with books. Eagerly thirsting +for knowledge, he soon exhausted his scanty means of gratifying his +taste in Berwick on Tweed, and leaving the place of his nativity, +repaired to London, where he encountered the greatest difficulties and +hardships. It is said that some of the most touching descriptions of the +sufferings endured by the aspirant for fame were actually endured by +himself, and "that the sobs and tears which involuntarily burst from the +family circle when these tales were read, were poured forth for him +whose pen had described them." Often amid the splendor of London, did he +wander "homeless and friendless." But nothing could repress the native +ardor and buoyancy of his mind. And amid all the darkness of the night +which enveloped his pathway, he was ever looking for sunrise. Despair +and poverty, however, drove him from the British metropolis, and he was +forced to seek in the provinces what he could not find in London, nor +did he seek in vain. He reaped "a golden harvest of opinions;" but +poverty continued to be his companion for years. During a sojourn in the +city of Edinburgh, he published several dramas and other poems, which +had a share of success. He wrote a series of "Lectures and Biographical +Sketches," which he delivered with considerable eclat in different towns +of Scotland and England. Three years before his death "he rested from +his wanderings," in his native village, among his friends and early +associates, having been invited to become editor of "The Berwick +Advertiser," which he conducted with great spirit. Amid his labors as an +editor, he found time to indulge his taste for literature, and the +matter of his journal was often enlivened by his own literary and +poetical effusions. But it was "The Border Tales," which made him a +decided favorite with the public, and gave him a warm place in the +Scottish heart. They were published in a fugitive form, and commanded a +circulation far beyond the author's most sanguine hopes. It was from +these that he and his friends saw a prospect of reward for his toils. +But the scene which was thus opening upon him was blighted,--and from +the high place which he had gained in the estimation of his townsmen, +from the caresses of his friends, and from the reproaches of his foes, +he now lies "where the wicked cease from troubling and the weary are at +rest." + +We do not admire Wilson's poetry as a whole; and yet some beautiful +strains might be culled from it. He wrote rapidly and diffusely; +throwing off everything at a first draft, without much correction or +polish. His "Border Tales" are quite miscellaneous in their character, +and contain much that he would doubtless have thrown out, had he lived +to place them in a permanent form. They are written diffusely and +carelessly. But with all their faults, they give indications of genius, +humor and pathos, a keen insight into character, great descriptive +powers, and a fine conception of the beautiful and true. Some of them +are told with great pith and raciness; and though inferior in some +respects, to Professor Wilson's "Lights and Shadows of Scottish Life," +are more natural and easy, more characteristic and amusing. Upon the +whole, they give a better idea of the Scottish character than the +Professor's splendid, but exaggerated pictures. James Mackay Wilson died +too young for his fame; but his simple tales will be read, for many a +day, in the homes of "bonny Scotland." Among other things, they give a +just representation of the religious character of the Scottish +peasantry. While their faults and foibles are depicted with graphic +power, their solemn faith, their profound enthusiasm, and their +leal-hearted piety are exhibited in beautiful relief. Justice is done to +the old Covenanters, whose rough patriotism and burning zeal were the +salvation of their native land. Long may their martyr spirit, softened +by charity, prevail in Scotland; and generations yet unborn shall "rise +up and call her blessed." + +In this series of sketches, now brought to a close, it has been the +author's aim to make a contribution to literature, which, while it might +prove attractive, would yet exert a pure moral influence. Such an +excursion beyond the peculiar limits of his profession, he thinks, was +permitted him, and may tend in some slight degree to promote the great +object for which he desires to live. At all events, if he has +accomplished nothing more, he has yet succeeded in calling up "a gentle +vision" of "Auld Lang Syne," by which his own heart has been solaced and +cheered. + + "Lang Syne! how doth the word come back, + With magic meaning to the heart, + As memory roams the sunny track, + From which hope's dreams were loath to part! + No joy like by-past joy appears; + For what is gone we fret and pine; + Were life spun out a thousand years, + It could not match Lang Syne! + + "Lang Syne!--ah, where are they who shared + With us its pleasures bright and blithe? + Kindly with some hath fortune fared; + And some have bowed beneath the scythe + Of death; while others scattered far + O'er foreign lands, at fate repine, + Oft wandering forth 'neath twilight's star, + To muse on dear Lang Syne! + + "Lang Syne!--the heart can never be + Again so full of guileless truth; + Lang Syne!--the eyes no more shall see + Ah, no! the rainbow hopes of youth. + Lang Syne!--with thee resides a spell + To raise the spirit, and refine. + Farewell!--there can be no farewell + To thee, loved, lost Lang Syne!" + + _Dr. Moir._ + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GENIUS OF SCOTLAND*** + + +******* This file should be named 38822.txt or 38822.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/8/8/2/38822 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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