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+Project Gutenberg's Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I (of 2), by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I (of 2)
+       A full account of the colony and its inhabitants from the
+       time of the Caribs to the present day
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: February 7, 2012 [EBook #38788]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS, VOL I ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Paul Flo Williams
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                            ANTIGUA
+                       AND THE ANTIGUANS:
+
+
+
+                       A FULL ACCOUNT OF
+                 THE COLONY AND ITS INHABITANTS
+                  FROM THE TIME OF THE CARIBS
+                      TO THE PRESENT DAY,
+            Interspersed with Anecdotes and Legends.
+
+                             ALSO,
+
+              AN IMPARTIAL VIEW OF SLAVERY AND THE
+                      FREE LABOUR SYSTEMS;
+                 THE STATISTICS OF THE ISLAND,
+      AND BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF THE PRINCIPAL FAMILIES.
+
+          “Sworn to no party, of no sect am I.”—Pope.
+
+                        IN TWO VOLUMES.
+                            VOL. I.
+
+                             LONDON
+              SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET.
+                             1844.
+
+                             TO THE
+                HONBLE ROWLAND EDWARD WILLIAMS,
+
+         LATE CAPTAIN IN THE 10th REGIMENT OF HUSSARS,
+         ONE OF HER MAJESTY’S PRIVY COUNCIL IN ANTIGUA,
+
+                    THE LINEAL DESCENDANT OF
+           THE FIRST WHITE CHILD BORN IN THAT ISLAND,
+        AND THE FRIEND AND BENEFACTOR OF ITS INHABITANTS
+                    OF EVERY HUE AND COLOUR,
+
+                           This Work,
+
+           DESCRIPTIVE OF ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,
+                  IS, BY HIS KIND PERMISSION,
+                           INSCRIBED
+              BY HIS FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED SERVANT,
+
+                                                     THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+                            PREFACE.
+
+
+
+Although in the present day the writing of a preface may be
+considered almost a work of supererogation on the part of an
+author, since it is that portion of a work seldom or ever looked
+into, still, as custom demands the form, and there may be some
+among my readers who may desire to learn what first led me to
+undertake this work, I am induced to follow the fashion, more
+especially as on one or two points I am desirous of offering a
+few words of comment and explanation.
+
+Not being a native of the West Indies, and visiting that part of
+the world for the first time at an age when all looks bright
+around us, the novelty of the scenes which passed before my eyes
+struck me forcibly, and induced me to make notes of the
+impressions I then received. Pursuing the same practice at
+subsequent visits, and during prolonged residences, in process of
+time my memoranda expanded to a considerable bulk. The increasing
+interest I took in everything relating to Antigua, led me to
+inquire into its early history, and to search out the origin of
+the numerous ancient families whose descendants have resided in
+the island from the period of its colonization.
+
+Some of my friends in the island who had become acquainted with
+my pursuits, were gratified by the specimens of my labours, which
+were exhibited to them, and urged me to throw my scattered notes
+into form. I yielded to their solicitations, and the result has
+been the following pages, which, while they afford a condensed
+history of the colony from its earliest days, present also a
+record of the impressions produced on one, at first, fresh from
+English society, but now, by long continued residence, become
+almost an Antiguan; having, it is hoped, lost all relics of
+English prejudice, but not become so biassed by her new
+connexions, or blinded by the many charms of Antigua or Antiguan
+society, as to hold the scales of justice unevenly.
+
+Having been resident in Antigua both before and after the passing
+of the Emancipation Act, and having had ample opportunity of
+judging of the practical effects of that memorable event, the
+observations I have made with relation to it may not be
+considered altogether unimportant.
+
+In perusing the early history of the colony, the English reader
+may be surprised to find how many men of family became early
+settlers in the West Indies; but when the eager spirit of
+adventure which immediately followed the enterprises of the
+Spaniards, and was so eminently conspicuous in the days of
+Elizabeth, is called to mind—when the causes which drove the
+“pilgrim fathers” forth are recollected, together with the
+numerous emigrations which took place from England, when the
+Royalists, in their turn forced to become fugitives, mostly
+sought a refuge in the West Indies, at first a safe and
+sanctioned asylum, till the very amount of the fresh influx of
+Royalist opinions made the West Indies a thorn in Cromwell’s
+side, and compelled him to have recourse to strong measures to
+secure their obedience to his will,—when all these causes are
+considered, it becomes no longer a matter of wonder that much of
+the best blood of England runs in the veins of the people, not
+only of Antigua, but of the West India islands generally.
+
+In justice to the character of the country which I have learned
+to love, I must, although unwillingly, notice another and a most
+painful subject. I refer to the exceedingly harsh laws passed
+respecting the slaves, and the shocking executions of those
+concerned in the insurrection in 1736. In relation to the former
+point, it is sufficient to observe that such laws are almost
+inseparable from the institution of slavery itself, and that the
+stigma affected the mother country equally with her colonies,
+while it redounds to the honour of Antigua that she was the first
+to announce unbounded freedom to her slave population. With
+respect to the barbarous executions, they would not be tolerated
+in Antigua at the present day, even had she continued to be a
+slave-dealing colony; and they can only in justice be referred to
+a state of society when the practice of torture had hardly fallen
+into desuetude in the civil courts of Europe, when the
+Inquisition was in full glory, when, only a few years before, the
+politest capital in the world had looked unmoved on
+
+    “Luke’s iron crown, and Damien’s bed of steel,”
+
+and criminals continued to be strung up by dozens in England (and
+for many long years after) for offences which, in the present
+advanced state of society, no civilized state would visit with
+the punishment of death. What wonder, then, that at such a
+period, and under such alarming circumstances, the Antiguans
+should have shewn themselves cruel and barbarous?
+
+Before I conclude, I must not omit to tender my acknowledgments
+to the numerous friends who have kindly afforded me assistance in
+the course of my work, among whom let me make grateful mention of
+Edward S. Byam, Esq., the Rev. and Hon. Burgh Byam, Col. Byam,
+Dr. Furgusson, Nathaniel Humphreys, Esq., Deputy Colonial
+Secretary in Antigua, (to which latter gentleman I was indebted
+for access to the Records of the island,) to John Furlong, Esq.,
+(who obliged me with the will of Governor Parke,) Registrar of
+Antigua, to ——— Edmead, Esq., to Captain George B. Mathew, of the
+Guards, the Rev. D. F. Warner, and others.
+
+In conclusion, may the Great Giver of all good pour down His
+choicest blessings upon this beautiful and favoured little
+island; may her legislators be ably endowed in all true
+principles of jurisprudence; may her planters be blest with
+kindly showers, so that their golden canes may raise their “tall
+plumes” in luxuriance; may her merchants, the prop of every
+civilized state, be prosperous—her peasantry happy and good, as
+they are _free_; and, finally, may her ministers (of every
+denomination) be long spared to watch over and pray for her
+teeming inhabitants, that one choral song of praise may resound
+from every quarter and from every tongue.
+
+                                                     The Author.
+
+
+
+
+                            CONTENTS
+                               OF
+                       THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER I.
+
+  General Description of the Island—Appearance—Soil—Productions—
+  Climate—Early history—Discovery by Columbus—Attempted
+  settlement by Spaniards—Grant to Earl of Carlisle—Settlement by
+  d’Esnambuc—Williams—Governor Warner—Account of Sir Thomas
+  Warner, founder of the family
+
+                          CHAPTER II.
+
+  History of the island continued—Sir Henry Hunks—Descent of the
+  Caribs—Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook—Arrival of the Ship Nonsuch—
+  Sir Thomas Modiford—Earl of Warwick, Captain-General—Captain
+  Edward Warner—Colonel Rich—Colonel Lake—Mr. Everard—Sir George
+  Ayscue—Colonel Christopher Reynall—Invasion by the Caribs—
+  Dissensions among the inhabitants—Copy of Colonel Reynall’s
+  letter to Cromwell—Attack upon St. Domingo and Jamaica—
+  Major-General Poyntz—Grant of Antigua to Lord F. Willoughby
+
+                          CHAPTER III.
+
+  Rupture between France and England—War in the West Indies—Loss
+  of Lord Francis Willoughby—Colonel Carden—Capture of Antigua by
+  the French forces under M. de la Barre—Colonel Fitche—
+  Restoration of Antigua by the Treaty of Breda—Death of Colonel
+  Carden—Biographical notices
+
+                          CHAPTER IV.
+
+  Governors: Lord William Willoughby, Henry Willoughby—Arrival of
+  Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the progenitor of
+  the family of that name—Biographical remarks—Partition of the
+  Caribbee Islands—Sir William Stapleton—General Council and
+  Assembly—Colonel Philip Warner—Expedition against the Caribs—
+  Death of Indian Warner—Arrest and trial of Colonel P. Warner—
+  Acquittal—Dampier’s account of this affair—Captain Southey’s
+  History of the Indian Warner
+
+                           CHAPTER V.
+
+  Governor Col. R. Williams—Biographical remarks—Towns of trade
+  appointed—Antigua divided into parishes—Sir Nathaniel Johnson
+  appointed captain-general and governor-in-chief—Colonel
+  Codrington—Remarks upon this family—Invasion of Antigua by a
+  French privateer—Attack upon Guadeloupe by the English—
+  Expedition to St. Christopher’s—Gallant conduct of Colonel
+  Williams and Colonel Willoughby Byam—Sir Francis Wheeler’s
+  expedition—Wilmot and Lillingston’s expedition—Death of the
+  captain-general, General Codrington—Colonel John Yeamans,
+  lieutenant-governor—Arrival of Admiral Benbow
+
+                          CHAPTER VI.
+
+  Governor Colonel Christopher Codrington—Establishment of the
+  first market—Accession of Queen Anne—Arrival of Admiral Benbow—
+  Attack upon the island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction with the
+  Antiguan troops—Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam—Arrival of
+  Captain Hovenden Walker—Second attack upon Guadaloupe—Colonel
+  Codrington quits the government—His death—Sir William Mathew—
+  Hon. John Johnson
+
+                          CHAPTER VII.
+
+  Governor Colonel Daniel Parke—His birth-place and parentage—His
+  actions at the battle of Holchet and Blenheim—His arrival at
+  Antigua—Dissensions with the Antiguans—Complaints against him
+  sent to England—Results of the applications at the court of
+  Queen Anne—Tyrannical behaviour of Colonel Parke—Events of the
+  7th December, 1710—Death of Colonel Parke
+
+                         CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  Governor Walter Hamilton—Walter Douglas’s Disturbances—
+  Complaints against him sent to England—Queen Anne recalls him,
+  and reappoints Walter Hamilton—Lord Viscount Lowther—John Hart—
+  Lord Londonderry—Lord Forbes—Colonel William Crosbie
+
+                          CHAPTER IX.
+
+  Governor William Mathew—Insurrection of the Negroes—A Legend of
+  the Ravine—Punishment of the Conspirators
+
+                           CHAPTER X.
+
+  Governor William Mathew—Sir George Thomas, Bart.—James Verchild
+  —Honourable William Woodley—Sir Ralph Payne—Hon. Craister
+  Greathead—General Burt—The circumstances of his death—Sir
+  Thomas Shirley, Bart.
+
+                          CHAPTER XI.
+
+  Governors: William Woodley—John Stanley—Major-General Charles
+  Leigh—Archibald Esdail—John S. Thomas—Robert Thomson
+
+                          CHAPTER XII.
+
+  Governors: The Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington—William
+  Woodley—James Tyson—John Julius—Hugh Elliot—Sir James Leith—
+  Henry Rawlins—S. Rawlins—Major-General Ramsay
+
+                         CHAPTER XIII.
+
+  Governors: Sir Benjamin D’Urban—Sir Patrick Ross—Sir Evan
+  Murray McGregor—Mr. Light—Sir W. G. MacBean Colebrooke—Major
+  McPhail—Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy
+
+                          CHAPTER XIV.
+
+  My first voyage to Antigua—Visit upon deck—The booby’s welcome—
+  Nearer approach—Harbour of St. John’s—The Black Pilot—North
+  Sandy Island—Wreck of the mail-boat—Dangerous navigation—Long
+  Island—South Sandy Island—Panoramic views from the vessel’s
+  deck—Light winds—Disappointment made pleasing—Anchorage for the
+  night
+
+                          CHAPTER XV.
+
+  The extent of Antigua—Opinion of some planters—Want of
+  agricultural labourers—Emigration not always profitable to the
+  negroes—“Seizar’s” letter upon the subject—Return of emigrants—
+  Soil of Antigua—Geological matters—Petrifactions—Climate of
+  Antigua—“Yellow fever”—Beautiful evenings—the appearance of the
+  heavens—Evening visitants
+
+                          CHAPTER XVI.
+
+  Scenery of Antigua—Pilgrimage to “Tom Moore’s Spring”—The
+  Goddess Mnemosyne—Fig-Tree Hill—The “Bower of Bliss”—“Old Road”
+  —The Strand—The cross sexton—The parochial school—Old Road
+  Church—Tomb of Col. Williams—Moravian settlement—Salt ponds—
+  Copses—“Crab Hill”—Sandy Valley—The Valley Church—The rising
+  moon—Arrival in town—Night, and night dreams
+
+                         CHAPTER XVII.
+
+  The seasons at Antigua—Heavy rains—Long droughts—The
+  water-merchant—A fortunate shower—Drought in 1837—Desolate
+  appearance of the country—Famishing cattle—Definition of “_fine
+  rains_”—Anecdote—Heavy shower—Joy—Earthquakes—1835—Meteors—
+  Dressing for the ball—The alarm—The ball-room—Hurricanes—
+  Devastations
+
+                         CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+  Description of the town of St. John’s, the capital of Antigua—
+  Situation—Arrangement of the streets—Hucksters—Houses—Springs—
+  Small shops—Stores of the retail dealers—Grog-shops—Merchants’
+  stores and lumber yards—Definition of lumber—Auction sales—
+  Scotch Row and Scotchmen—Incongruous display of goods—Fire in
+  1797—Ruins—Fire in 1841—Its devastations
+
+                          CHAPTER XIX.
+
+  Description of the church of St John’s—Period of its erection—
+  Present site—Panoramic views—Form of structure—Length and
+  breadth—Interior—Decorations—Monuments—Organ—Tower—Bells—Clock—
+  Churchyard—Tombs and sepulchral inscriptions—An acrostic—“Adam
+  and Eve!”
+
+                          CHAPTER XX.
+
+  Court-house—Bazaar—Arsenal—Police-office—Government-house—
+  Barracks—House of correction—Gaol—Methodist chapel—Methodism,
+  its rise and progress in Antigua—Moravian chapel—Rise and
+  progress of the Society of United Brethren—Scotch kirk
+
+                          CHAPTER XXI.
+
+  Morning—Institutions—Daily Meal Society—Its rise and progress—
+  Lazaretto—Destitute Females’ Friend Society—Its origin and
+  purpose—Friendly Societies—Bible Society—Missionary
+  associations—Temperance Society—Juvenile Association—Ladies’
+  Clothing Society &c.—Banks—Library Society
+
+                         CHAPTER XXII.
+
+  Early rising and “Jamie Thomson”—Journey to English Harbour—
+  Windmills and Don Quixote—Groups of negroes and their equipages
+  —All Saints’ chapel of ease—The “Hamlet”—Village of Liberta—
+  Grace Hill—Patterson’s and Prince William—English Harbour
+  market—Streets and dwellings—Commissariat’s store and
+  government tank—Dockyard—The superintendent—Stores and
+  storehouses—Engineer’s workshop—Blacksmith’s shop and blowing
+  machine—Limes and roses—Recollections of England—Lieutenant
+  Peterson and Lord Camelford—His lordship’s pranks—The ordnance—
+  Clarence House and Dows Hill—The Ridge and “Shirley heights”—
+  Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley—Bats Cave—The Savannah and its
+  tombs—Indian Creek—Return to town
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+  Zulmiera, the Half-Carib girl, a Legend of the Savannah
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+  Continuation of the Legend
+
+                          CHAPTER XXV.
+
+  Conclusion of the Legend
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+  Towns: Falmouth—Church and churchyard—Mangroves and acacias—
+  Black’s Point—Bridgetown—Willoughby Bay—Its site and decoration
+  —The superintendent of the Wesleyan schools—School-room—
+  Methodist chapel—The Memoras—St Philip’s church—Beautiful views
+  —Parham—Its derivation and site—St Peter’s church—Churchyard—
+  The new church—Methodist chapel and school-room
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+  Forts and fortifications—Temporary ones—The present forts—Fort
+  James—Its situation and approach—Rat Island Battery, its
+  appellation, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff—Goat Hill—Steep
+  ascent—Schools in St. John’s
+
+                        CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+  Remarks upon the aboriginal Americans—Suppositions of various
+  authors—Caribs—Arrowawks—Ferocity of the Carib—Complexion—Dress
+  —Ornaments—Dreadful revenge—Wars-Chiefs—Severities practised—
+  Feasts—Remarks upon paganism—Anthropophagi—A traveller’s tale—
+  The Carib’s opinion of death—Religious tenets—Altars—The
+  burning Carib
+
+                            ERRATA.
+
+[Transcriber’s Note: these errata have been incorporated.]
+
+Page 4, line 8 from top, _for_ “D’Escambue,” _read_ “D’Esnambuc.”
+
+— 20, line 7 from bottom, _for_ “Parhan,” _read_ “Parham.”
+
+— 89, line 3 from top, _for_ “Mathews,” _read_ “Mathew.”
+
+— 249, line 13 from top, _for_ “Hernhult,” _read_ “Herrnhutt.”
+
+— 266, line 3 from bottom, _for_ “Sheltic,” _read_ “Sheltie.”
+
+
+
+
+                          SUBSCRIBERS.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Sir Charles A. Fitz Roy, Governor-in-Chief of the
+    Leeward Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Major McPhail, Lieutenant-Governor of Dominica  . . . . . .  4
+  The Lord Bishop of Antigua  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+
+
+
+
+                       Members of Council
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Hon. Mead H. Daniel, President  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Rowland E. Williams  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Hon. William Byam, (Cedar Hill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Hon. Bertie E. Jarvis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Hon. G. W. Ottley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. R. W. Nanton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Owen Pell  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. George S. Martin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Paul Horsford  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+
+
+
+             Members of the House of Assembly, &c.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Hon. Thomas Sanderson, Speaker  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. William Lee  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Thomas F. Nibbs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. John Athill  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  James Scotland, Jun.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. John Gray  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Francis Byam Ottley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Furgusson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  William Thibou  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  R. B. Eldredge  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Osborn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James W. Sheriff  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Samuel Auchinleck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jos. L. Bindon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. H. Allan, (Whitehaven) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  George Athill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Athill  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Gedney C. Bispham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Godschall Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  William Gordon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Horace Turner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William H. Thompson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Boyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. E. Sanderson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Murray  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Hosier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. H. Grant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  N. J. Hill  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. H. More  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Erskine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William S. Odlum  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Humphreys  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward Wesston  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Thibou  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  R. K. Nanton  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Madgwick  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Paul Horsford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Prizgar  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Armstrong  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. Burke Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James E. Geddes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George Ewart  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John McDonald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Gordon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  George Cranstoun  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  3
+  J. Barrett  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. T. Gore  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  H. Perrott, 59th Regiment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Gilbert Auchinleck  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  A. Duncan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William L. Nibbs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  M. Capdestaing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James F. Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Samuel L. Bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  T. H. Morrison  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Haining  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Simpson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Barry Nibbs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  N. Humphreyes, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Robertson, Sen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Kelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Benjamin Scotland  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Joseph Black  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George Black  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William C. Brookes  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  A. McDowal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  R. W. Baxter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John F. Smyth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Ed. F. Grant  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. H. G. Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Scotland, Jun.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Patrick Cadell  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  John Gow  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Richard Higginbotham  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas C. Walter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John W. Scotland  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Richard Wilson, (Mico School) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. J. Anderson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Thomas Gordon, (English Harbour)  . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Boison  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Francis Critchton, (Rose’s Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles McGuire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jeremiah R. Nibbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John B. Lowry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert T. Pooler  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Freeland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Captain Kennedy, Brig, “British Queen.” . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. C. Milward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry T. Pigot, (Villa Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. W. More  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jos. Lavicount  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Simpson, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. J. B. Wilkinson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Walker, P. M. G.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Carmault  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  P. P. Walter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  David Armour  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Robertson, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas H. Hyndman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Boyd  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Ashford  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas W. Scholar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Grant, (Freeman’s Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Bradfoot Taber  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Doyle  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Thomas Nicholson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward Liscombe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James C. Wesston, M.D.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Kennedy  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Lindsay, A. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. Cranstoun  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Oswald Wood, M.D. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  G. J. Watkins, (Lavington’s Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. P. Maynard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Captain W. C. Johnson, Brig “Ludlow”  . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. Malone, (English Harbour)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. Scarville  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. P. Guilmett  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. Isaacs, (English Harbour)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. Hart, Superintendent of Naval Yard . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  ——— Nugent, 59th Regiment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  ——— Peebles, ditto  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. James Curtin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Clarke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Alonzo Hurst  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Trew, Collector H. M. C.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  T. A. Benjamin, D. O. S. K. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George S. Bladen  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Ledger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. G. Dumeresque, H. M. C.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  F. H. Price, H. M. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hinton Simpson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. J. Ronan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jos. Sherrington  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Winter, Chief of Police  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  G. B. Cadelle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. A. Ross Willock  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. R. Haynes, (Folly Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Goodwin, (Mount Lucy Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Bryan, (Elliot’s Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jno. M. Donovan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Frederick Kysh  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Richard Abbot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Howell  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  R. S. White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. Fulton Author  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Henry French  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Captain Fred. Simpson, “Miranda” (ship) . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Stewart, (Hermitage Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Samuel M. Richard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Lieutenant Bulman, H. M. S. “Fair Rosamond” . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. F. Fox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Storrock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Connor, (English Harbour) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jno. Rodney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Gregory  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Elliot  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Brodie G. McNish  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Andrew Brown  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mat. Cockburn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. T. C. Walter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Jno. Furlong  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  James W. Boyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Wm. Fairclough  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+
+
+
+                       St. Christopher’s.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Horatio Adlum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Joseph McLachlane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Private Subscription Rooms  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. Hay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Padmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Messrs. Dinzey and Peterson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. McMahon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. William Frazer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Woodcock  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. A. Tapshire  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  N. J. Lynch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Nimmo  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. R. Claxton, Attorney-General . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. R. B. Cleghorn, President of Nevis . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  H. Harding, (Nevis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Thensteat, (Dominica) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Fortunatus Larrica, (Madeira) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  T. L. Foster  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  F. Burk, (Monserrat)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+
+
+
+                            England.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager . . . . . . .
+  Sir T. Fowel Buxton, Bart., Northrepps, Norfolk . . . . . .  4
+  Lord James O’Bryen, 15, North Crescent, Bath  . . . . . .
+  Sir George Thomas, Weymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+  Captain G. B. Mathew, Carlton Club  . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Lieutenant Parsons, R.N., Southampton . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Rev. William Palmer, Rector, Eynesbury, Hunts . . . . . . .  1
+  Joseph Liggins, Esq., Mincing-lane, London  . . . . . . . .  2
+  Rev. Daniel F. Warner, Rector, Hoo, Rochester . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Byam, Byam House, Brighton . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward S. Byam, Esq., Cheltenham  . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. and Rev. Richard Burgh Byam, Vicar of
+    Kew and Petersham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Engleharte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. John Walter, Bridge-street, Blackfriars  . . . . . . .  1
+  L. C. Lecesne, Esq., Fenchurch-buildings  . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Lewis F. Bellot, Esq., Barge-yard Chambers, Bucklersbury  .  1
+  James McKie, Esq., Bucklersbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward Byam Wyke, Esq., Ealing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. Sam. Ashton Warner, Rector of St. George’s, Antigua  .  1
+  Shirley Warner, Esq., Stipendiary Magistrate, Montserrat  .  1
+  John Dawson, Esq., Whitehaven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+                   ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,
+                              ETC.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER I.
+
+
+
+  General Description of the Island—Appearance—Soil—Productions—
+  Climate—Early history—Discovery by Columbus—Attempted
+  settlement by Spaniards—Grant to Earl of Carlisle—Settlement by
+  d’Esnambuc—Williams—Governor Warner—Account of Sir Thomas
+  Warner, founder of the family.
+
+The Island of Antigua, one of the great Antilles, is situated in
+the Caribbean Sea, about twenty-five miles to the north-east of
+Montserrat, and forty miles north of Guadaloupe, in latitude
+seventeen degrees north, and longitude sixty-two degrees, or
+thereabouts, the measurement in these respects not being more
+exact than those of its length and breadth, which are variously
+stated at 21, 20, and 18 miles for its length, and 21, 20, and
+17, for its breadth. The lower estimate is, however, most
+probably correct. Its circumference, again, is variously stated
+at from 50 to 80 miles, and its total area from 59,838 acres, to
+108 square miles, or nearly 70,000 acres. The population in 1837,
+consisted of 2000 whites and coloured people, and 33,000 blacks.
+All the slaves in the island were enfranchised in 1834.
+
+The island is of an oval shape. On the first approach the coast
+appears rough and barren, but as the voyager draws nearer, hills
+and valleys open on his view, and the shore puts on an appearance
+of luxuriant vegetation. The country possesses little of a
+mountainous character, the highest elevation reaching only to the
+height of 1210 feet above the level of the sea. The soil varies
+according to the situation; that of the valleys and low lands
+consisting of a rich, black mould, on a substratum of clay; and
+unless in seasons of excessive drought, to which this island is
+peculiarly subject, remarkably productive. The soil of the high
+lands, on the other hand, is a stiff, reddish clay, on a
+substratum of marl, and is much less productive, abounding, as it
+does, with a species of grass extremely difficult to extirpate;
+and the increase of which has even caused some lands, formerly
+cultivated, to be abandoned. With the exception of such tracts,
+and of a small part totally unimprovable, the whole island may be
+said to be under cultivation. The staple production is sugar; a
+little cotton is cultivated; but all other articles of commerce,
+with the exception of sugar, are neglected. The quantities of
+ground provisions, as yams, eddoes, sweet potatoes, &c., grown in
+favourable seasons, is very considerable.
+
+The most remarkable circumstance connected with Antigua is the
+want of fresh-water springs, there being but two or three of
+them, wholly inadequate to the wants of the population. This want
+is supplied by tanks, in which the rain water is preserved, and
+found to be particularly wholesome and agreeable, being light and
+pleasing to the palate.
+
+The climate is remarkable for want of moisture, although the
+average fall of rain is forty-five inches. It is considered one
+of the most healthy in the West Indies.
+
+The history of Antigua may be said to commence with its discovery
+by Columbus, for although it was at that period, and
+subsequently, frequented by the Caribs, they appear not to have
+made it a place of permanent residence; the want of water, which
+caused European settlers so long to neglect the island, deterring
+them also from establishing themselves upon it. For an account of
+the Caribs, and of their probable origin, the reader is referred
+to the chapters devoted to that interesting subject; and we shall
+now proceed to the history of the settlement of the island and of
+its internal administration down to the present time, reserving
+for future chapters those sketches of the island, and its
+inhabitants, which are the result of personal experience.
+
+It was not until his second voyage, in the year 1493, that
+Columbus discovered Antigua. He landed with a party, but finding,
+on examination, that it was peopled only by a few Caribs, who
+possessed nothing that was serviceable to the Spaniards, and who
+were, probably, only casual visitants, and that the island was
+destitute of fresh water, he contented himself with giving it a
+name, Antigua, from the church of St. Mary of Antigua, at
+Seville, and abandoned it. There is a tradition that the name
+given to the island by the natives was “Xaymaca,” signifying the
+“land of springs;” but whether this “lucus a non lucendo” was a
+specimen of Caribbean wit, or, more probably, arose from a
+mistake on the part of the European visitants, is uncertain.
+
+Antigua remained neglected by all the various European
+adventurers, who hastened in crowds to other more favoured spots,
+until the year 1520, when a small party of Spaniards, under the
+Licentiate Don Antonio Serrano, who had received letters-patent
+from the King of Spain to colonize Antigua, Montserrat, Barbadu,
+Deseada, Dominica, and Martinique, landed, and driving off the
+few Caribs they found there, attempted to establish themselves;
+but after a short stay they abandoned it, and the island remained
+without a European claimant until the year 1627, when the Earl of
+Carlisle obtained a grant of Barbados, Antigua, and the rest of
+the Leeward Islands, from Charles I. This grant was opposed by
+the Earl of Marlborough, on the plea of a prior grant from James
+I., which was, however, eventually compromised, and the Earl of
+Carlisle was recognised as the sole proprietor. He, however,
+contented himself with settling Barbados; and although Antigua
+was colonized in his lifetime, yet neither he nor his son, who
+died without issue in 1660, and in whom the family honours became
+extinct, appear to have ever interested themselves in Antigua, or
+to have exercised any rights of ownership or property. In fact,
+the first permanent occupation of the island appears to have been
+a mere private speculation, and to have excited little notice or
+inquiry, since it is still a question who was the first actual
+settler.
+
+In the year 1629, Mons. d’Esnambuc, the captain of a French
+privateer, made an attempt at a settlement, but the want of water
+drove him away after a very short stay; so short, indeed, that
+although a party of English settlers seem to have been upon the
+island, he did not remain long enough to discover them. The
+assertion, however, that English colonists were then on the
+island, rests solely on a tradition that William Herbert, Earl of
+Pembroke, who interested himself greatly in the colonization of
+the West Indies, sent out his friend and countryman, Mr.
+Williams, (the father of Colonel Rowland Williams, renowned in
+Antiguan story, as having been the first white child born on the
+island,) to attempt a settlement in Antigua. As Lord Pembroke
+died in April 1630, it does not appear probable that Mr.
+Williams’ settlement was later than 1629. If he were not the
+first, there is no doubt he was one of the first settlers, and an
+estate at Old Road, still in possession of his descendant, is
+pointed out as the spot he made choice of for his residence,
+which, as it is in the neighbourhood of the best spring in the
+island, now known as “Tom Moore’s Spring,” is extremely likely to
+have been the case. A fact that strengthens the probability of
+Mr. Williams being the first settler is, that Mr. Warner, who
+unquestionably conducted a party to Antigua from St. Kitts, in
+1632, fixed his residence near the same spot, which it is natural
+he should do, for the sake of companionship, but built a cistern,
+whose ruins are still to be seen in the savannah, which he need
+not have done, had not the scanty spring been already
+appropriated.
+
+In the year 1632, General Sir Thomas Warner, at that time, by the
+sanction of the Earl of Carlisle, the legal proprietor, and,
+under warrant from the king, Governor of St. Christopher, Nevis,
+Barbados, and Montserrat, sent his son Edward, a captain in the
+army, with a sufficient party, to colonize Antigua, which design
+he carried into effect, and during the remainder of his life
+continued to act as governor, although we have discovered no
+evidence of his having ever possessed, either as principal or
+deputy, any warrant for assuming the title, or executing the
+functions of governor, except so far as his father, as agent for
+the Earl of Carlisle, the lord proprietor of the island, might be
+considered as vested with authority; for in his commission from
+the crown, no mention is made of Antigua.
+
+The name of Warner being thus distinguished in the annals of
+Antigua, we may be excused for making a digression upon the
+history of its founder, more especially as it affords a good
+illustration of the process of colonization in our West Indian
+and American possessions.
+
+General Sir Thomas Warner was a scion of an ancient and
+distinguished English family; but from being a younger son, he
+was obliged to use personal efforts, in order to effect an
+honourable passage through life. Having entered into the army at
+an early age, and attained the rank of captain, he accompanied
+Roger North, brother of Lord North, in his expedition to Guiana,
+a country which was then looked upon as a perfect _Eldorado_.
+Here he became acquainted with a Captain Painton, a great
+navigator of those times, and one who had well studied the then
+all-engrossing subject of colonization.
+
+This gentleman suggested to Captain Warner how much more facility
+would attend a settlement in one of the smaller islands, than in
+a country so extensive as Guiana; and from his own personal
+experience, he thought St. Christopher’s (at that time unoccupied
+by any European power) would be an island particularly adapted
+for the exercise of a daring spirit, in the way of planting a
+settlement.
+
+These suggestions of his friend appear to have made due
+impression upon the mind of Mr. Warner; for in 1620, after the
+death of Captain Painton, he resolved to return to England, and
+endeavour to procure the aid of some kindred spirit, in order to
+put his designs into execution. Having so far succeeded in his
+plans as to procure all necessary arrangements for establishing a
+colony, Mr. Warner again left England, accompanied by his wife
+and son, Edward, (who was a captain in the army at the early age
+of thirteen, and who was afterwards appointed first governor of
+Antigua,) and a small party of followers,[1] and embarked on
+board a vessel bound for Virginia, whence himself and party
+proceeded to St. Christopher’s, where they arrived 28th January,
+1623. Mr. Warner, as head of the settlers, commenced immediately
+the task of cultivation, in which he so far progressed as to
+raise a crop of tobacco, which was unfortunately destroyed in the
+severe hurricane of the 19th of the following September.
+
+During this period, the movements of the English were diligently
+observed by the Caribs, who, instigated by three Frenchmen,
+(supposed to have been cast upon the island by a former storm,)
+at length made an outbreak upon the English, and retarded in some
+measure their work of cultivation.
+
+By the end of the following February, Mr. Warner had another crop
+of tobacco ready for exportation; and the ship Hopewell
+(commanded by Captain Jefferson) arriving on the 4th March, 1624,
+from London, bringing fresh supplies for the infant colony, a few
+emigrants, and goods with which to trade with the Caribs, Mr.
+Warner resolved to return in her to England, in order to obtain
+more powerful assistance. He accordingly embarked himself and his
+first-gathered crop on board the “Hopewell,” and once more sought
+the shores of England, to receive the congratulations of his
+friends, and search for a patron who would enable him to carry
+out further his plans of colonization.
+
+Between that period and 1625, Mr. Warner was employed in voyaging
+backwards and forwards from St. Christopher’s and England,
+leaving the cares of the government to his son, Edward Warner,
+(of whom Du Tertre speaks very handsomely,) until, having gained
+a friend and patron in the Earl of Carlisle, he was introduced at
+the court of the then reigning sovereign, Charles I. This monarch
+was so pleased with Mr. Warner’s indefatigable and patriotic
+spirit, that he was graciously pleased to grant him a commission,
+(signed 13th Sept. 1625,) constituting him governor over the
+“foure islands of St. Christopher’s, Nevis, Barbados, and
+Mountserrate,”[2] and on the 21st September, 1629, knighted him
+at Hampton Court Palace.[3]
+
+Some of Sir Thomas Warner’s descendants have filled the highest
+situations in Antigua, administering the government at times. Nor
+is the family extinct, for many there are who can trace their
+descent in a direct line from this great founder of four
+flourishing colonies. One of these was in 1838 “gathered to his
+fathers;” he was esteemed as an able legislator, and fulfilled
+his duties as president of the council, brigadier-general of the
+militia, and occasionally lieutenant-governor, with integrity. As
+this family ranks among the first aristocrats of the island, a
+more particular account of their lineal descent may not be deemed
+superfluous, and will be found in the Appendix, No. 2.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[1] The names of these adventurous few were as follows:—William
+Tasted, John Rhodes, Robert Bims, Mr. Benifield, Sergeant Jones,
+Mr. Ware, William Ryle, Rowland Grasscocke, Mr. Bond, Mr.
+Langley, Mr. Weaver, Sergeant Aplon, one sailor, and a cook.
+
+[2] Vide copy of the first commission granted, No. 1, Appendix.
+
+[3] Sir Thomas Warner died at St Christopher’s in 1648. His tomb
+is still to be met with in the parish church for the township of
+Old Road, (a place which derives its name from the involuntary
+exclamation of Columbus upon his second visit to St.
+Christopher’s, “Ah! we are at the _old road_ again,”) the
+inscription upon which is as follows:—
+
+             An Epitaph vpon Th-------------------
+                Noble & Mvch Lamented Genrl Sir
+                   Tho. Warner, Kt Lievtenant
+                     General of ye Carribee
+                     Ielands & Goverr of ye
+                    Ieland of St Christopher
+                       Who Departed This
+                        Life the 10th of
+                          March 1648.
+
+    First Read then weepe when thou art hereby taught,
+    That Warner lyes interr’d here, one that bought,
+    With losse of Noble bloud Illustrious Name,
+    Of A Comander Greate in Acts of Fame.
+    Trayn’d from his youth in Armes, his courage bold,
+    Attempted braue Exploites, and vncontrold
+    By fortunes fiercest Frownes, hee still gaue forth
+    Large Narratiues of Military worth.
+    ----ritten with his sword’s poynt, but what is man
+    -------the midst of his glory, and who can
+    ----------this Life A moment, since that hee
+    -------------by Sea and Land, so longe kept free
+    -----------al, Mortal Strokes at length did yeeld
+    ------------ace) to conquering Death the field,
+    fini Coronat.
+
+The black lines shew where the marble is broken, or the letters
+from some other cause are quite obliterated.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER II.
+
+
+
+  History of the island continued—Sir Henry Hunks—Descent of the
+  Caribs—Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook—Arrival of the Ship Nonsuch—
+  Sir Thomas Modiford—Earl of Warwick, Captain-General—Captain
+  Edward Warner—Colonel Rich—Colonel Lake—Mr. Everard—Sir George
+  Ayscue—Colonel Christopher Reynall—Invasion by the Caribs—
+  Dissensions among the inhabitants—Copy of Colonel Reynall’s
+  letter to Cromwell—Attack upon St. Domingo and Jamaica—
+  Major-General Poyntz—Grant of Antigua to Lord F. Willoughby.
+
+We will now return to the history of Antigua, which we shall
+hereafter pursue, as closely as possible, in chronological order.
+
+In 1639, Sir Henry Hunks paid Antigua a visit. This gentleman
+(who was nephew to Lord Conway, Secretary of State) was the first
+governor of Barbados with a regular commission; but upon his
+arrival at that colony, Henry Hawley, the then acting
+commander-in-chief, would not resign the government, and raised
+so formidable a party, that Sir Henry Hunks quietly retired to
+Antigua, where he remained from June to December; at which latter
+period, he was installed in his government, according to the
+instructions which he received from England.
+
+In 1640, the English settlers were disturbed in their possessions
+at Antigua by the Caribs, who made a descent upon the island,
+pillaging it, and destroying everything that fell in their way.
+After many lives being lost on both sides, the English were
+enabled to repel their invaders; who, however, succeeded in
+carrying away the governor’s wife and her two children. It is
+maintained by some authors, that the after fate of this
+unfortunate woman was not known; but that everything the worst
+might be imagined from the character of the Caribs, goaded on as
+they were by the loss of their country.
+
+There is, however, a tradition still extant in Antigua, which
+most probably relates to this catastrophe. In the first years of
+this island becoming an English colony, it was, of course, but
+thinly peopled by Europeans, and consequently there was but
+little force to repel any invasion. Parties of Caribs from the
+different islands, particularly Dominica, used frequently to land
+upon it, and distress the inhabitants. In these invasions, no
+mercy was shewn, no quarter given, to the unhappy people who fell
+in their power, and after a combat, numerous were the bodies left
+upon the field of battle. Armed with their massive clubs and
+sharp spears, at the end of which was inserted a fish-bone,
+dipped in the poisonous juice of the lianas or the manchineel,
+the Caribs were no mean foes. No sooner had they set fire to a
+cluster of houses, or destroyed a field of tobacco, the chief
+production of the island in those days, than they immediately
+flew to their canoes, which were so fast in sailing, that before
+the alarm had subsided in one part, they were burning and
+plundering in another.[4] At that period, the house where the
+governor resided was situated near Falmouth Bay; and in the
+village itself the principal of the English settlers lived.
+Government House, from its situation, was particularly open to
+the attacks of the Caribs; and here the first part of the scene
+took place, which gave rise to
+
+
+
+
+               The Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook.[5]
+
+
+
+It was night. The wind, which had been blowing rather hard during
+the day, as evening drew in, gradually sank, until about
+midnight, the time when the legend opens, it was a dead calm.
+Nothing was to be heard but the dull moaning of the waves, as
+they broke heavily upon the beach, or, now and then, the distant
+bark of a dog from the houses of the settlers, which, with the
+natural fidelity of that animal, had followed his master to these
+sunny islands, when he came in search of that fortune which his
+native land denied him.
+
+The family of the governor consisted of himself, his young and
+beautiful wife, two lovely children, and his numerous domestics.
+At an early period of this evening, his lady, with the warm
+solicitude of a mother’s love, had seen her infants safely
+deposited in their cot; and with a mother’s prayer for their
+happiness upon her lips, watched beside them until the deepening
+rose upon their cheeks, and their measured breathings, shewed
+that they slept the quiet sleep of childhood.
+
+Hours rolled on, and all beneath that roof sought their
+resting-place—all but the governor’s wife were quickly in the
+arms of sleep. As if some “spirit of the night” had whispered a
+hint of the sufferings she was fated to endure, an irresistible
+feeling of melancholy hung over her. Sleep she could not; and to
+allay the fever of her brow, she arose from her couch, and
+throwing her robe around her, she opened the lattice. The scene
+she looked upon was wild but beautiful. Dark masses of clouds
+still hung about the heavens, and strove to hide the beams of the
+rising moon; but she, “fair Cynthia,” kept on her way in peerless
+majesty, and shed on every object her mellowed light. The simple
+houses of the English were visible amid the trees; above which
+the stately cocoa-nut reared its head, its long pendant branches
+perfectly motionless. On one side, the bay of Falmouth lay
+stretched before the eye of the gazer, every snow-crested wave of
+which could be counted; and on the other were the dark mountains,
+except in the opening of the bay, where nothing was to be seen
+but an extent of waters.
+
+Long did that beautiful lady gaze upon this scene: many thoughts
+did its loveliness conjure up—thoughts of her native land, its
+verdant hills and spangled dells, and all its towering cities.
+Present objects were fast fading away, when a splash of the
+waters was heard, and as her eye sought the ocean, a
+swift-gliding canoe came in sight. At this moment, the moon,
+which had been lately obscured, shone out with redoubled
+brightness, and she could plainly discover that the canoe
+contained about twenty armed men, and was quickly followed by
+another, with even more than that number. Who could these
+strangers be? was the first thought; and what their business at
+such an hour? Were they Caribs? And one more glance at their wild
+forms, and the dreadful truth rushed across her mind, that they
+were coming to storm the house. Soon she awoke her husband, and
+told him her fears; the domestics were aroused and armed, and the
+house put into a posture of defence.
+
+The canoes were now no longer to be seen; and even the lady was
+inclined to ask, Could it be one of those wild vagaries of the
+imagination? when suddenly the war-cry was heard, and, with
+dreadful imprecations, a party of Caribs bounded into sight.
+Terrible was the fight that succeeded, and many a corse strewed
+the ground. At length the Caribs were obliged to retreat; but,
+alas! they carried with them all that was dear to the governor—
+his wife and children. The Caribs, hotly pursued, made for the
+place where they had directed their canoes to wait, under the
+charge of some of their friends, dragging the unhappy lady and
+her two babies with them. Frightened by the wild looks of the
+Indians, and suddenly awakened from its slumbers, one of the
+little innocents commenced crying bitterly, which its distressed
+mother, at the command of her conquerors, vainly endeavoured to
+still. After walking, or rather running, for some distance, they
+had almost reached the sea-side, when one of the Caribs, more
+ferocious than the rest, and thinking that the cries of the child
+would perhaps lead their pursuers to the spot, caught the baby by
+the feet, and swinging it around his head, at one blow dashed out
+its brains upon a neighbouring rock.[6] This deed committed in
+sight of its parent, the lady and her remaining child were rudely
+hurried on, until, the beach gained, they were thrown into one of
+the canoes; and the whole party embarking, they pushed out into
+the ocean.
+
+The governor, finding they had escaped, proceeded on board an
+armed vessel, and immediately sailed in pursuit of the enemy. The
+morning that succeeded that disastrous night was one of West
+Indian beauty; not a vapour was abroad; the sky was one deep,
+lovely blue, and the sea looked like fluid light. Seated upon the
+high poop, anxiously did the governor scan the waters in hopes of
+seeing the canoes; but nothing met his eye—not even a speck
+appeared to raise his hopes. Hour after hour passed away, but no
+sight of the fugitives; night drew on, and the breeze died away;
+the sails flapping heavily against the mast bespoke another calm.
+How tedious seemed those hours of darkness—how fervently was the
+morning wished for; but just before dawn the wind sprung up, and
+soon after the mountains of Dominica appeared in sight. Slowly
+but surely the vessel glided on, every eye watching for some
+trace of the lost ones, when, in the opening of a little bay, two
+empty canoes were discovered. Could these be the same they were
+in quest of? was the anxious query; and if so, where could their
+owners be? Orders were given to let go the anchor, and prepare
+the boats; and in a short time the governor and his party, all
+well armed, were landed upon the beach.
+
+A beaten path led up to the mountains, and it was determined to
+pursue it in hopes of it leading to some dwelling, where they
+might obtain information. As it proceeded, however, it became
+more and more intricate, guava bushes, aloes, and the prickly
+pear, grew thickly together, while different species of parasites
+conspired to render the path more impervious. In some places it
+was almost obstructed by these various bushes, interspersed with
+larger trees, so that the companions of the governor were for
+returning, supposing no one could have passed that way lately.
+But he was determined to proceed a little further; and had just
+stretched out his hand to sever with his sword the overhanging
+boughs of an acacia, when suddenly he made a start, his heart
+beat almost to bursting, and, unable to speak, he pointed to his
+amazed followers a portion of white taffeta hanging to one of its
+sharp thorns. This, he felt assured, must have been torn from the
+robe of his wife; and, consequently, that was the road her
+conquerors must have carried her. Upon further search among the
+rank and tangled grass, in hopes of discovering prints of
+footsteps, marks of blood were observed. These led to further
+inquiries. Could they have murdered her there? But no; had such
+been the case, greater quantities of blood would have marked the
+deed. Perhaps she might have been wounded, and placed in some
+concealment near. Again they proceeded, guided by the drops of
+blood, until, coming to an abrupt turn of the path, about a dozen
+Caribs’ huts lay stretched before them, and their fierce inmates
+lolling around the open doors.
+
+In less than a minute all was confusion. Confident that this was
+the party who had stolen his wife, the governor rushed upon them
+furious with passion. Nothing could resist his power; Carib after
+Carib lay stretched by the prowess of his arm; and springing over
+his prostrate foes, the anxious husband entered the principal
+hut, which he had observed was carefully guarded throughout the
+fray. A well-known voice called his name, an infant’s cry of joy
+saluted his ear, and, bursting open an inner door, his weeping
+wife was in his arms, and his darling child clinging around his
+knees. It took but little time to quit that spot, and retrace the
+mountain path. The drops of blood he had seen were occasioned by
+his wife’s shoe coming off, and the rugged ascent cutting her
+tender feet, upon her journey to the Caribs’ huts. The boat was
+quickly gained, and in a few minutes they reached the ship, and,
+unfurling the sails, they sought the shores of Antigua, where
+they arrived in safety.
+
+Hitherto all was well. Happy in again seeing her husband, and
+knowing herself and child were safe, that lady still took
+comfort, although mourning the untimely fate of her other
+darling. But this did not last long. Other thoughts arose in her
+husband’s breast—thoughts too horrible to mention.
+
+    “Oh! what dreadful minutes tells he o’er,
+    Who dotes, still doubts; suspects, yet strongly loves.”
+
+In vain his poor unhappy wife protested she was pure.
+
+    “Jealousy is a green-eyed monster,
+    That doth mock the food it feeds upon;”
+
+and by its whispers drove him, who was the affectionate friend
+and protector, to be the harsh and implacable tyrant. No longer
+enjoying the society of his wife, he determined to get rid of
+her; and for this purpose built a keep in Ding-a-Ding Nook, and,
+conveying his wife hither, left her to wear away her life in
+hopeless misery.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+This is the legend; and well might that Nook be selected for such
+a place of seclusion, for it is a valley completely shut in by
+the surrounding mountains, and open only to the sea. I have heard
+another version of this story, which says, the governor and his
+lady parted by mutual consent, and that it was her wish to have a
+house built in that spot. Surely, if this was the case, she must
+have had the taste of an anchorite.
+
+Between the period of Mrs. Warner’s abduction and the year 1666,
+the Caribs carried away the wives and children of many of the
+respectable settlers. Among them, we find mentioned Mrs. Cardin
+and children, Mrs. Taylor and children, Mrs. Chrew and children,
+Mrs. Lynch and children, Mrs. Lee, wife of Captain Lee, and many
+other females. Mrs. Lee was detained prisoner for three years,
+after the Caribs had murdered her husband, and many other
+Englishmen, the truth of which is attested by the following
+extract from a letter written by J. Daniel, auditor-general to
+the expedition under Pen and Venables, to Oliver Cromwell,
+lord-protector of England, dated 3rd June, 1655:—“Mrs. Lee, wife
+of Captain Lee, was carried away by the Caribs, and kept prisoner
+three years at Dominica, her husband and many English
+slaughtered.” This statement immediately dispels the hypothesis
+(which some writers have entertained) of Captain Lee being the
+erector of the keep at Ding-a-Ding Nook; and, consequently, fixes
+more firmly the truth of Mrs. Warner being the heroine of the
+preceding legend.
+
+To return once more to our chronological record. In 1647, the
+ship “Nonsuch,” Captain Middleton, owner, arrived at Antigua,
+which gave the name to Nonsuch Harbour, having anchored in that
+port. This was one of three vessels which had been fitted out
+from England by Colonel, afterwards Sir Thomas, Modiford, in
+order to form a plantation in this island. During the passage,
+the “Achilles,” the larger vessel of the expedition, of 300 tons
+burden, William Crowder, owner and master, parted company with
+the “Nonsuch,” which proceeded to Antigua alone. The “Achilles,”
+after being out at sea for many weeks, put into Barbados in
+distress, being infected with a disease which caused great
+mortality among the men. During Colonel Modiford’s stay at
+Barbados, it was represented to him how far more advantageous it
+would be to purchase an estate in that island, already planted,
+and from which immediate emolument might be derived, than to
+proceed to an infant colony, where he would have to undergo all
+the fatigues and privations incident upon establishing a
+plantation. Colonel Modiford, listening to this advice, purchased
+the half of an estate for 7000l., an immense sum at that day, and
+thus constituted himself a Barbados planter, instead of adhering
+to his first resolution, of becoming a settler of Antigua. Sir
+Thomas Modiford afterwards removed to the newly-gained English
+colony of Jamaica, of which island he was appointed governor in
+1663, and where he resigned his breath in 1679. The Earl of
+Warwick had been appointed captain-general of _all the West
+Indies_ in 1643, but he does not appear to have assumed the
+command; for, in 1648, after the demise of Sir Thomas Warner, we
+find Colonel Rich become governor of St. Christopher’s, Colonel
+Lake[7] of Nevis, and Colonel Edward Warner of Antigua. How long
+this latter gentleman retained his situation is uncertain; but,
+about the year 1651-2, a Mr. Everard is mentioned as holding the
+government of the leeward West India islands. An official
+document, however, written in the year 1655, speaks of a
+gentleman of that name as governor of St. Kitt’s only.
+
+Antigua, among most of the other colonies in this quarter of the
+globe, refusing to acknowledge the rights of the Protector, Sir
+George Ayscue was sent with a squadron to reduce them. This
+island soon yielded to the Commonwealth’s banner, and Colonel
+Christopher Reynall was appointed governor, instead of the
+individual who had so daringly withstood the parliamentary power.
+
+In 1654, the Caribs again made a descent upon Antigua; but the
+English were enabled to repel their invaders, and effect such
+slaughter among them, that but few escaped to tell the tale. This
+victory appears to have intimidated the Indians; and for the next
+two or three years, the island had rest from their relentless
+invasions. About this period, Antigua was a prey to great
+dissensions between the governor and the governed. Complaints
+were forwarded by the inhabitants to Barbados, praying the
+governor of that island to use his influence in endeavouring to
+put a stop to their internal distractions. On the other hand, the
+Governor of Antigua, Colonel Christopher Reynall, wrote to the
+Lord Protector, imploring his Highness to take the island under
+his more particular command, and, by his authority, quell the
+disaffections which had so unfortunately crept in among them. The
+following letter from the Governor of Antigua, and the extract
+from one written by Daniel Searle, Esq., Governor of Barbados,
+are taken from “Thurloe’s State Papers”:—
+
+  Copy of a letter from Christopher Reynall, Governor of Antigua,
+     to the Lord Protector of England, Oliver Cromwell.
+
+“May it please your Highness,
+
+“Upon the reducement of these parts in that expedition of Sir
+George Ayscue’s employ, I was by him and the other commissioners,
+then empowered and commissioned to be _governor_ and
+_commander-in-chief_ of this island of Antigua, in relation and
+obedience to the Commonwealth of England, which, to the best of
+my endeavours, I hope in my instrument, I have faithfully
+performed; in the progress of which my employ being, I have
+received by several advice, that it was and is thought meet, and
+so established by the Great Council and Estate of England, with
+your Highnesses consent and acceptation, that the government of
+our nation and dominions remain in yourself as Lord Protector; a
+thing most acceptable to me, who do most faithfully wish your
+Highness and the Commonwealth welfare and happiness; and, in
+manifestation thereof, have cheerfully acknowledged and submitted
+to all such mandates or expresses which hath hitherto come in the
+name of the Lord Protector. But in our private consultations,
+considering of _many spirits amongst us_, doubting their
+satisfactions have not attained the title of our ...... or
+......; according to our desires and intentions, lest an
+ill-affected party should presume to take an advantage thereby in
+pretending, as some have already given out, that there were no
+power of government, but all as libertine, until a new commission
+came from your Highness; which, by that means might endanger the
+place to a confusion and ruin: so render us incapable of that
+service we desire to perform to your Highness and the
+Commonwealth. The place of itself (if encouragement and small
+help were afforded) being of consequence, by reason of the
+fertility of the soil, and exceeding all others settled in these
+parts, in convenient and safe harbours—I, in relation to the
+promises and my loyalty to your Highness and the Commonwealth, do
+prostrate my humble desire at the feet of your Highness’s care
+and justice, as so far to take up the people and place into your
+consideration, as to give such orders and directions as may put
+us not only in the condition of walking inoffensively, but also
+as we may be serviceable to your Highness and the Commonwealth,
+which is the hearty desire of
+
+            “Your most obedient subject and servant,
+
+                                  (Signed) “Christopher Reynall.
+
+  “From the Island of Antigua, in the parts of America,
+
+“Aug. 20th, 1654.”
+
+The extract from Governor Searle’s letter, dated from Barbados,
+Nov. 7th, 1655, and addressed to Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector,
+&c., is as follows:—
+
+“Some addresses have likewise been made unto me, by Mr. Jos. Lee,
+Mr. Benjamin Langham, and Richard Farley, inhabitants of Antego,
+in behalf of themselves and the people of that colony, concerning
+some distractions among them, and the present unsettled and
+desturbed condition of that colony. But finding I have no power
+to take cognizance of anything of that nature, without the bounds
+of this colony, without a special order from your Highness, I
+have transmitted their complaints, and the state of the matter in
+difference betwixt them and the governor going off, which your
+Highness will here receive.”
+
+In 1665, Antigua joined with Barbados, St. Christopher’s, and
+Nevis, in levying troops to join the intended expedition of
+Admiral Pen and General Venables, (of which accounts had been
+received from England,) in their projected attack upon St.
+Domingo—an island at that period under the power of Spain, but
+which Cromwell was very desirous of obtaining. From the copy of a
+State paper, it appears, however, that upon the arrival of the
+Commonwealth fleet, the Governor of Antigua, Christopher Reynall,
+represented to the commanders of the expedition, the disastrous
+state of the island, from the frequent, and particularly the
+_late_, molestations of the Caribs;—a fact so clearly presented
+to Pen and Venables, that they would not lessen the force of the
+place, by impressing any of its inhabitants for soldiers. They,
+therefore, remained only two days at Antigua, during which period
+they proclaimed the Protector with great pomp; and then proceeded
+to St. Christopher’s, and the other leeward islands, where they
+procured a sufficient complement of men. I am sorry, however,
+that an historian of great fame states, “the troops raised in the
+West Indies were the most profligate of mankind.”
+
+As Antigua did not eventually join in this expedition, it will be
+sufficient to remark, that the attack upon St. Domingo was very
+disastrous; for, although upon the first approach of the English,
+the Spaniards left their town and fled into the woods, the troops
+did not follow up their advantage. Venables allowed the soldiers
+to disembark, without a guide, ten miles from the capital; and,
+wandering about without any fixed purpose for the space of four
+days, they gave the Spaniards time to recover themselves from
+their alarm, and, rushing from their place of concealment, they
+fell upon the English, who were almost dead with fatigue and
+hunger, killed six hundred of them, and drove the remainder on
+board their vessels. In order to atone for their indiscretions,
+the English commanders resolved to proceed against Jamaica, also
+under the dominion of Spain, and which island immediately
+surrendered to the English flag, without a blow being struck in
+its defence. Colonel Doyly being appointed governor of the new
+gained colony, with about 3000 land forces under his command, and
+a fleet of men-of-war under Vice-Admiral Goodson, Pen and
+Venables prepared to return home. Landing the West India troops
+at their respective islands, the commanders sailed for England;
+but, upon their arrival, they were both sent to the Tower, for
+their failure upon St. Domingo, entirely owing to their want of
+proper conduct as English officers.
+
+Upon the Restoration, Antigua held out for the Commonwealth, as
+strenuously as in 1651 it had opposed the pretensions of
+Cromwell, and for this cause, Charles II. appointed Major-General
+Poyntz, a former deserter from the Parliamentary power, to act as
+governor, which situation he filled until 1663, when Lord Francis
+Willoughby, of Parham, obtained a grant of the entire island from
+Charles II. as a reward for his eminent services in the cause of
+that monarch; and Major-General Poyntz retired to Virginia.
+During the period this latter gentleman resided at Antigua as
+governor, he owned and planted an estate called by him Cassada
+Garden, a title which it still bears.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[4] The following extract alludes to the invasions of the Caribs
+(Rochfort’s Histoire des Antilles, published at Rotterdam, 1665,
+tome 4, page 310):—“Les Caraibs ont fait des descent dans les
+isles de Montserrat, d’Antigoa, et en d’autres qui sont occupées
+par les Anglais, et après avoir brulé quelques maisons, et pillé
+quelques meubles; ils ont enlevé des hommes, des femmes et des
+enfans, qu’ils ont conduit à la Dominique et à St. Vincents.”
+
+[5] An estate in Antigua called by that name.
+
+[6] This rock is still pointed out upon an estate, called
+Patterson’s, belonging to the Hon. John Athill.
+
+[7] The proper appellation of this gentleman (according to the
+authority of E. S. B———, Esq.) is Colonel _Luke Stokes_; but,
+from an orthographical error of the French historian, _Du
+Tertre_, he has been handed down to posterity as Colonel _Lake_.
+He afterwards removed to Jamaica at the head of a small party of
+English settlers, where he died in 1659, universally esteemed for
+his virtues and honourable actions.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER III.
+
+
+
+  Rupture between France and England—War in the West Indies—Loss
+  of Lord Francis Willoughby—Colonel Carden—Capture of Antigua by
+  the French forces under M. de la Barre—Colonel Fitche—
+  Restoration of Antigua by the Treaty of Breda—Death of Colonel
+  Carden—Biographical notices.
+
+In 1665-6, England was engaged in a contest with Holland,
+Denmark, and France; and during that period, her colonies in the
+West Indies suffered greatly, particularly St. Christopher’s and
+Antigua.
+
+St. Christopher’s being reduced by the French, Lord Francis
+Willoughby headed an expedition of 2000 troops, and sailed from
+Barbados (where he was then residing in preference to Antigua)
+with the hope of recapturing that island. On his passage to St.
+Christopher’s, he visited Martinique, with the design of
+surprising the place, and, after taking the French prisoners, to
+transport them to Antigua, Montserrat, and Nevis. The French,
+however, having received tidings of his movements, were
+accordingly prepared; and Lord Willoughby, finding himself
+baffled in his intentions, sailed for Guadaloupe, where he
+arrived on the 2nd of August. Before any success was effected
+against this island, a dreadful hurricane arose, which, raging
+with extreme violence for the space of twenty-four hours,
+entirely destroyed the fleet of Lord Willoughby, strewing the
+coast with its fragments, and every soul perished, with the
+exception of two seamen.[8]
+
+Before embarking upon this expedition, this ill-fated nobleman
+appointed his nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby, lieutenant-general
+and governor of these islands, who in his turn constituted
+Colonel Carden governor of Antigua.
+
+Before the declaration of war between France and England was
+published, several Frenchmen had left the French colonies, from
+different motives, and settled in Antigua, where they lived
+sociably with the English, and prosecuted their respective
+professions. After the rupture between those nations was known in
+the West Indies, and the report of the intended attack upon St.
+Christopher’s by the French, reached the ears of Lord F.
+Willoughby, he dispatched his nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby, to
+the relief of that place. Arriving, however, too late for the
+action, he was obliged to proceed with his ship to Antigua; and
+being (according to Du Tertre, the French historian) in “_a
+burning rage_” at the failure of his plans, he vented it upon the
+French settlers whom he found there—confiscating their property,
+forbidding them to quit their houses, or hold communications
+between themselves, under pain of death, and obliging them to
+swear allegiance to the English monarch.
+
+“Many of them submitted, in a very cowardly manner,” remarks the
+above-named quaint author; “but others, _whose heart was in a
+better place, refused to do so_.”
+
+Among these French settlers was a young surgeon, of the name of
+Grand-Maison, who had been formerly _valet-de-chambre_ to M. de
+la Barre, lieutenant-general by sea and land of the French
+forces, and who was fully alive to the tyrannical manner in which
+himself and his countrymen had been treated. Having a little more
+liberty than the others, from the nature of his profession,
+Grand-Maison had an opportunity of entering into conversation
+with another young Frenchman, of the name of Baston, who, says Du
+Tertre, “was skilful by sea and land, courageous and brave, and
+an admirer of firmness and constancy.” Finding Grand-Maison
+entertained the same sentiments as himself, he proposed that they
+should steal a small shallop, which was attached by an iron chain
+to a post firmly planted in the beach, and taking advantage of
+the darkness of the night, effect their escape from the island.
+As, however, the oars had been carried away by the owner of the
+boat, they bribed a French carpenter, who was engaged working in
+some of the back woods of Antigua, to join them in their
+enterprise, and make them a pair in that retired place.
+
+Grand-Maison, who served a very rich master,[9] took the charge
+of bringing a sufficient quantity of provisions from his home;
+and between them they procured five muskets, a few pairs of
+pistols, some cutlasses, twenty or thirty pounds of powder, and
+lead in proportion. But thinking themselves not strong enough to
+man the shallop, Grand-Maison, who was very much beloved by the
+negroes, engaged two of them, who were esteemed excellent rowers,
+to accompany him.
+
+All things being duly prepared, they stole away from their
+masters by night, hurried to the beach, and the carpenter having
+sawn in two the post to which the boat was fastened, they
+departed, and made for Guadaloupe. After struggling manfully
+against the current and contrary winds for some time, running
+many risks of their lives, and putting back into Antigua once or
+twice, they changed their resolution, and made for St.
+Christopher’s—arriving in Cabsterre, a district of that island,
+at the very time M. de Chambre was on the point of sailing for
+Martinique, to rejoin M. de la Barre, with all the French ships
+of war.
+
+M. Sannois, captain of that district, welcomed the adventurers,
+and treated them very kindly; and upon hearing their story, sent
+them to M. de St. Laurent, who, after examining them, and finding
+them well informed of the strength and natural barriers of
+Antigua—and more particularly, as Baston gave him a plan of the
+coast, shewing the best landing-places, and offered himself as a
+guide to the troops, to lead them to the place “wherever
+resistance might be expected,” and to be _everywhere_ “at their
+head,”—he determined to send them with M. de Chambre to M. de la
+Barre, at Martinique.
+
+Upon their arrival at that island, at counsel was held, and
+Grand-Maison and Baston introduced, when the latter repeated his
+offers. The assembly was well pleased with his information and
+solid reflections; but M. de Chambre represented, that the
+officers of the French forces were so contented with the conquest
+of St. Kitts, that he thought they would be unwilling to engage
+in any new adventure, unless there was an augmentation of the
+troops. To this objection M. Clodoré, the Governor of Martinique,
+replied, in such a splendid speech, abounding with so much true
+martial ardour, that every objection was borne down before him;
+and M. de Chambre was led to observe, that if M. St. Laurent had
+heard the powerful arguments brought forward by M. de Clodoré, he
+would change his opinion, and join in attacking Antigua; and he
+did not believe M. St. Leon, (the commanding officer,) with his
+brother officers, would even stand firm in their resolution after
+hearing him. M. de Chambre then asked M. Clodoré if he would
+accompany him to St. Christopher’s, to consult with the other
+officers. M. Clodoré immediately replied he should be most happy
+to do so, if M. de la Barre would give him such instructions in
+writing; which being directly complied with, they made sail 25th
+October, 1666, with seven vessels of war, carrying 166 pieces of
+cannon, and commanded by M. de la Barre, admiral of the whole
+fleet; M. de Clodoré, Governor of Martinique; M. du Lion,
+Governor of Guadaloupe; M. de Chambre, Intendant of the French
+West Indian Company’s affairs; and attended by 130 men of the
+regiment of Poictiers, commanded by Sieur d’Orvillier, and two
+companies of infantry, besides the seamen.
+
+Calling in at Guadaloupe, they held another council of war, in
+which it was determined to sail for St. Kitt’s; but at the same
+time to come so near to Antigua as to be able to reconnoitre the
+island, and ascertain if it would be prudent to attack it before
+they proceeded to St. Christopher’s.
+
+Leaving Guadaloupe on the 2nd November, they made sail for
+Antigua, bearing the English flag as a subterfuge, and thinking
+by that means to deceive the English. Upon reaching Antigua, they
+endeavoured to get into the harbour of St. John’s; but meeting
+with contrary winds, they put back and made for Five Islands’
+Bay, which at that period was defended by two forts—the smaller
+one (which appears to have been only an artificial mound, without
+any parapets or any kind of fortifications) mounted with six
+guns; the larger one (with good stone buildings, and standing in
+that part now occupied by the batteries of “Goat’s Hill”) mounted
+with eight guns. The men stationed at the smaller fort had their
+suspicions first awakened by observing how carefully the French
+came in, sounding with the lead every moment; and consequently
+they determined to fire upon them.
+
+To this _warm_ welcome the French replied in such a manner,
+bringing all their guns to bear upon the place, that the English
+abandoned the fort, and fled. Arriving abreast of the larger
+fort, the French anchored at pistol-shot; and the firing was
+carried on with such vigour, that it was also abandoned, and that
+with such precipitancy, that the royal flag was left behind.
+
+The signal was now made for a party to land and take possession
+of the forts, with directions to capture all they could, but not
+to burn or destroy any part of the country, wisely remarking,
+according to their own narrator, that “they could do that another
+time.” These orders for forbearance, if they were ever given,
+were not attended to; for everything that fell in their way was
+devastated; and it has been remarked by an old author, that the
+French robbed the very shoes from off the feet of the
+inhabitants.[10]
+
+But to return to the particulars of the attack. The next morning,
+about four o’clock, M. de Clodoré, &c., attended by 200 men,
+landed upon the beach, and, guided by Baston, proceeded to the
+house where the governor, Colonel Carden, then resided, which was
+situated about a mile and a half from the shore. The English
+fought with their usual bravery, but were at length overpowered;
+and Colonel Carden, Colonel Monk, and about thirty other
+officers, were taken prisoners, and the house burnt to the
+ground.
+
+The governor, being thus captured, was conveyed on board the
+admiral’s ship; and the French were so elated with their success,
+that they determined to push on their good fortune, and endeavour
+to subdue the whole island. The next day, they again landed at
+daybreak, attended by 240 men, divided into two companies, and
+guided by Baston. Reaching a large house situated upon a hill,
+they dispatched a trumpeter to summon the inhabitants to
+surrender, among whom was Mrs. Carden, the wife of the governor.
+This trumpeter carried a letter, written by Colonel Carden,
+describing how well he was treated(?), and advising them not to
+wait to the last extremity to surrender, but to do so without
+delay. To this letter they returned a verbal answer, thanking the
+French for their polite treatment to their governor, but at the
+same time intimating, that they were resolved to do their duty,
+and resist to the last.
+
+Upon receiving this reply, the French commanders prepared for
+battle, and resolved to storm the house. At first they were
+repulsed by the English; and the greater part of the regiment of
+Poictiers, commanded by the Sieur d’Orvillier, being seized with
+a panic, retreated and concealed themselves in a neighbouring
+wood; but Mons. de Clodoré, seeing the state of affairs, hurried
+to the spot, and, being joined by the officers of the regiment
+and about thirty of the common soldiers, whom they had prevailed
+upon to leave their concealment, made a second attack upon the
+house, and succeeded in forcing an entrance.
+
+A battalion of the English making their appearance upon the hill
+behind the house, M. de Clodoré drew off his men to engage with
+them, while D’Orvillier and the rest of the party were left in
+charge of the edifice. Upon entering, they found Colonel Quest
+(who had taken the command of the island after the seizure of
+Colonel Carden) seated “in an arm-chair, with a pair of pistols
+cocked in his hand,” and surrounded by a few brave English.
+Colonel Quest demanded quarter, to which a Frenchman replied by
+sending a ball through his body; and the rest of the English who
+were with him, were slaughtered without mercy.
+
+In justice to M. de Clodoré, it must be remarked, that as soon as
+he knew of these proceedings, he endeavoured to put a stop to
+them, and finally saved the lives of about fifty English, who had
+concealed themselves in another part of the house.
+
+After burning down the edifice, and many others in the vicinity—
+which were described as being very handsome ones—killing fifty of
+the English, and getting all the plunder they could, the French
+proceeded to the beach, carrying their prisoners, about fifty in
+number, along with them. Upon arriving there, it was agreed to
+ship them immediately, and despatch them to St. Kitts, with the
+wounded Frenchmen, among whom was Baston, the instigator of the
+attack, and who afterwards died of his wound at that island.[11]
+When Colonel Quest was to be carried down to the beach along with
+the other prisoners, he was found to be so seriously wounded,
+that he was unable to walk; and consequently, one of the French
+officers proposed to despatch him, offering to do the deed
+himself. At this barbarous scheme, M. de Clodoré was justly
+incensed; and, ordering a few of his soldiers to form a kind of
+bier, had him carefully conducted on board the ship that was to
+carry him to St. Kitts, in which island he also died.
+
+After getting rid of their prisoners, the French held another
+council of war, when it was resolved to send a trumpeter,
+summoning all the inhabitants to surrender, threatening to set
+fire to all their property should they demur. A compliance with
+this demand appears to have been wholly unexpected by the French,
+and their threat of burning only a species of _bravado_; for at
+this council it was resolved, that if the English held out, they
+would immediately sail for St. Christopher’s with the whole
+fleet. Fate, however, willed it otherwise, and the trumpeter
+brought answer back, that the English were willing to accede to
+their demand, and desired a place to be appointed in which to
+treat about the terms of capitulation. Overjoyed at their
+unexpected success, the French named the harbour of St. John’s as
+the place of treaty; and accordingly despatched one of their
+frigates—the “Armes d’Angleterre,” on board of which the
+conference was to be held. On the tenth of November, 1666, M. de
+Clodoré, M. de Chambre, &c. &c., accompanied by four shallops,
+containing eighty armed men, proceeded on board that vessel, and
+were quickly joined by Lieut.-Colonel Bastien Baijer, Colonel
+Buckley, Joseph Lee, Captain Samuel Winthorp,[12] Captain Philip
+Warner, and James Halliday, who were appointed by the English to
+sign the capitulation.
+
+All arms, ammunition, forts, batteries, &c., were to be given up
+to the French; but the English were to be allowed to retain their
+property, have free exercise of their religion; (except in that
+immediate district which the French governor might choose as his
+quarters;) and Colonel Carden, who had been detained prisoner of
+war on board one of the enemy’s vessels, was to be restored to
+liberty.
+
+After signing the capitulation, on the 12th of November, the
+English deputies despatched Colonel Buckley on board the “Armes
+d’Angleterre,” with the information that there were three hundred
+soldiers arrived from Barbados, which would prevent them from
+fulfilling their part of the treaty; _but that if the French
+thought proper to hazard an attack, they (the deputies) would not
+interfere_.
+
+Upon receiving this message, the greater part of the French
+officers were for detaining Colonel Buckley as an hostage, as
+well as refusing to liberate Colonel Carden; but to this M. de
+Clodoré would not assent, remarking that as he had given his word
+to restore Colonel Carden to liberty, and Colonel Buckley had
+come on board under protection of a flag of truce, they should
+both be conveyed safely to land. This was accordingly done the
+same day; but Monsieur Giraud, the head commander of St. Kitts,
+seeing Colonel Buckley on shore, and not being aware of M. de la
+Barre’s intentions towards him, had him seized and conveyed on
+board the admiral’s ship; who, being of different opinion to M.
+de Clodoré, detained him as a hostage; and the whole of the
+French forces having embarked, the fleet sailed for St. Kitts,
+where they arrived on the 15th of November.
+
+After remaining there a few days, M. de Clodoré sailed for
+Martinique to transact some necessary business, and then,
+accompanied by a fleet of six frigates, returned to Antigua, to
+oblige the inhabitants to fulfil the treaty they had signed. He
+arrived on the 30th of November, but found the state of affairs
+entirely changed, Mr. Willoughby having appointed Colonel Daniel
+Fitche, (who upon the former visit of the French was staying at
+Nevis,) governor of Antigua, in place of Colonel Carden, and the
+island being reinforced by the arrival of some troops from
+Barbados.
+
+Surprised but not intimidated, M. de Clodoré, with the
+concurrence of his principal officers, sent a trumpeter to
+Colonel Carden, calling upon him to fulfil the treaty, and oblige
+the inhabitants to surrender. This message was received by
+Colonel Carden in the presence of some of the English officers;
+but the same night, by the order of Colonel Fitche, (who was
+displeased at his expressing his opinion, that it was but
+equitable to stand by their written contract,) he was arrested
+and sent to prison. Upon this occasion, Mrs. Carden despatched
+the following letter to M. de Clodoré:—
+
+“Mons.,
+
+“Mon mary cette nuit a esté enlevé d’auprés de moy par deux
+officers et deux soldats, et ce qu’ils pretendent faire de moy et
+des miens, jusqu’à present ie n’en sçay encore rien; mais en
+crains qu’il ne nous en arrive mal. Je vous supplie
+tres-humblement, Monsieur, voyant que moy, les mien, et ma
+famille est delaissée et abandonée de nostre nation; qu’il vous
+plaise nous prendre sous votre protection, nous qui n’avons levé
+la main ni le cœur contre vous; et moy et les miens, et beaucoup
+d’autres, prieront pour vostre prosperité et ie prend la
+hardiesse de me qualifier,
+
+                    “Monsieur, vostres, &c.
+
+                                             “Marie Carden.”[13]
+
+[N.B.—These letters are literally transcribed.]
+
+Upon the same day, Colonel Carden despatched the following letter
+to M. de Clodoré:—
+
+“Monsieur,
+
+“J’aurois eu l’honneur de vous aller trouver, mais i’ay este
+intercepté par ordre de Mons. le Gouverneur Fitche, et il ne m’a
+pas esté permis de sortir. J’espere, Monsieur, que ne croirez, ni
+ne iugerez autre chose de celuy qui prend la liberté de se
+souscrire,—Mons., votres, &c.
+
+                                            “Robert Carden.”[14]
+
+Soon after sending this letter, Colonel Carden was liberated, and
+immediately proceeding on board the French ship, delivered
+himself up to M. de Clodoré, and informed him that Colonel Fitche
+and his troops were encamped at Pope’s Head. Upon hearing this,
+M. de Clodoré immediately weighed anchor, and sailing round the
+coast, arrived off Pope’s Head the same night. The next morning,
+the following letters were despatched to him from the English
+camp:—
+
+“Monsieur,
+
+“Nous avons receu vos semonces de venir à bord delivrant en
+vostre possession nos armes et munitions de guerre; laquelle
+chose, le changement de nos affaires est tel depuis vostre
+depart, qu’il ne vous la peut pas permettre. Monsieur le
+Lieut.-General de nostre roy ayant envoyé icy le Col. Daniel
+Fitche pour son gouverneur, luy a donné pouvoir sur toute la
+milice de cette isle: si-bien, Mons., que nous sommes devenus
+tout-à-fait incapables de vous donner aucune reponse
+satisfactoire; et sur l’examination des affaires passées, a
+trouvé qu’elles estoient beaucoup à notres preiudice; et en
+particulier envoyant les Careibes deux fois sur nous contre
+l’obligation de vos articles, et les loix des nations, des
+personnes qui sont cruels, tout-à-fait barbares et ignorans de
+Dieu et de toutes civilitez. Neanmoins, Monsieur, nous vous
+supplions suivant ce que nous avons déiafait, d’en faire vos
+demandes à nostre dit gouverneur, qui est uniquement experimenté
+en matiere de guerre. En attendant nous demeurons,
+
+             “Monsieur, vos tres-humble serviteurs,
+
+                                   “Bastien Baijer, &c. &c.”[15]
+
+“Mons.,
+
+“Nous avons receu la vostre, à laquelle nous ne pouvons à present
+faire aucune reponse, si non qu’il n’est pas en nostre pouvoir de
+convenir à vos semonces, ni à aucunes choses cy-devant faites;
+parce que depuis vostre depart d’icy, est arrivé le Col. Daniel
+Fitche, avec commission de Monsieur le Lieut.-Gen. pour
+gouverneur, auquel vos semonces et demandes doivent estre faites,
+comme estant seul commandant de la milice. Nous trouvons que nous
+avons receu grand preiudice à la rupture des articles concernans
+les Careibes, qui ont deux fois attenté sur nous à leur maniere
+accoustumée, qui est cruelle et barbarienne. Nous serions reioüis
+de vous voir si le souhaittez; car on attend icy quinze navires
+de la Barbade, dont il y en a cinq de trente pieces de canon
+chacun, et deux de soixante, et huit navires marchands de vingt à
+trente pieces de canon, avec mil soldats du roy vestus de
+casaques rouges, avec quantité d’armes: vous presentant vous
+rendrez service. Nous demeurons,
+
+          “Monsieur, vos asseurez amis et serviteurs,
+
+                                   “Bastien Baijer, &c. &c.”[16]
+
+Upon receiving these letters, M. de Clodoré held a council with
+his officers, the results of which were as follow:—
+
+“As the enemy have made no answer to our summons, sent three days
+ago, to fulfil the conditions of the treaty made with them; but,
+on the contrary, they have sent these letters this morning, in
+which, after having sought vain pretences of rupture, they
+declare they are not willing to fulfil it, and at the same time
+they have disposed guard-houses along the coast, and caused
+several armed persons to oppose our landing; it has been found
+proper to accept the rupture they have made of the treaty, and
+after having fired a cannon-ball at them, to land, in order to
+make them return to their duty, without paying regard to the
+letters they have sent. Besides the absence of Monsieur de la
+Barre, and the necessity we are in to send back immediately the
+island troops to Martinique and Guadaloupe, to oppose the enemy,
+who, according to advices received, will soon arrive there, it is
+impossible now to keep the island of Antigua for the king. It has
+therefore been thought proper to land, attack the enemy, and, in
+case of success, place the island in such a state, that the enemy
+can draw no sort of profit from it.
+
+“Done unanimously between us, the undersigned, in the harbour of
+Antigua, the 3rd December, 1666.
+
+                                                    “De Clodore,
+                                                        Blondel,
+                                                     Hinsselin.”
+
+During the period the council was being held, several armed
+soldiers, (of the English troops,) impatient to know what answer
+would be returned to their letters, appeared upon the beach; upon
+which, according to the resolutions already passed, a cannon-ball
+was fired at them, when they dispersed, and appeared no more,
+without a white flag in their hand. Before the French council
+broke up, an English officer came on board, bringing the
+following letter for M. de Clodoré:—
+
+“Monsieur,
+
+“Nous vous avons envoyé ce matin telle reponse que nous pouvions,
+estant sous le commandement et autorité de Mons. le Gouverneur,
+au pouvoir duquel n’estions pas capables de resister; mais depuis
+que nous luy avons fait voir amplement la raison de nostre
+premier traité et nostre refus de rompre, avons tant fait qu’il
+en est demeuré d’accord, moyennant qu’il y soit, compris comme le
+reste des habitans; le dit traité et accord sera ponctuellement
+ratifié et effectué en toutes ses particularitez.
+
+                      “Monsieur, vos, &c.,
+
+                                   “Bastien Baijer, &c. &c.”[17]
+
+But paying no regard to this letter, M. de Clodoré wrote them as
+follows:—
+
+“Messieurs,
+
+“J’ay esté fort surpris, lorsque j’ay veû que vous n’avez pas
+repondu à la sommation que ie vous ay fait faire, et encore
+davantage lorsque i’ay leû la lettre que vous m’avez envoyée ce
+matin, où vous nous accusez de vous avoir traité avec rigueur,
+pour chercher pretexte de rompre comme vous avez fait, en
+manquant à vostre foy et à vostre parolle. Je descends à terre et
+vous vais trouver, pour vous mettre à vostre devoir par la voye
+des armes: ceux qui les poseront, auront de moy bon quartier, et
+les autres seront traitez selon la rigueur de la guerre.
+
+                       “Vostre serviteur,
+
+                                               “De Clodore.”[18]
+
+Immediately after sending this letter, M. de Clodoré and
+Hinscelin landed with the French forces; but, upon gaining the
+beach, they were met by a party of the English, bearing a flag of
+truce, and offering, in the name of the inhabitants, to give up
+all pretensions to this island, provided they would include
+Governor Fitche in the treaty.
+
+To this proposition M. de Clodoré would not assent, but forming
+his troops into battle array, marched to attack the English. The
+result of this encounter appears to me so remarkable, that it
+obliges me again and again to assure my readers I give the true
+translation: “marching to attack the new Governor and his eight
+or nine hundred men, only two shots were fired by the English,
+one of which wounded _their own sentinel_, and this was the only
+blood spilt in this engagement; and Governor Fitche hearing that
+M. de Clodoré was coming up with all his troops, and four pieces
+of artillery, ran away in a boat with Colonel Warner and some
+others, saying to his soldiers only these words—“God be with me,
+and with you.”
+
+Thus have I narrated the reduction of Antigua by the French,
+following the steps of their own historian, “Du Tertre,” who of
+course speaks in favour of his own countrymen. Antigua remained a
+French colony, although of no use to the nation, except from the
+plunder obtained from it, until the following year, when by the
+treaty of Breda, Louis XIV. restored it to the English crown.[19]
+The French appear to have ever doubted their success; and their
+attack upon Antigua, in the first instance, seemed only intended
+as a feint; but by one of those extraordinary accidents, which we
+often meet with in the annals of nations, the island was reduced,
+and in the second attack, if we may believe Du Tertre, _only two
+shots_ were fired in its defence.
+
+At the period of this conquest of Antigua, there were about 800
+negroes upon the island, but of these the French could only find
+about 500, which they carried away with them, along with their
+plunder. The after fate of Colonel Carden was truly shocking.
+Soon after the French had abandoned Antigua, a party of Caribs
+landed, and cruelly treated the defenceless inhabitants. At
+length they proceeded to the house of the ex-governor, Colonel
+Carden, who treated them very kindly, and administered to their
+want. Upon their leaving, they requested their entertainer to
+accompany them to the beach, who instantly complied; but the
+Caribs, more treacherous than the wild beasts that haunt the
+desert, had no sooner reached the place where their canoes were
+stationed, than they fell upon their kind host, cruelly murdered
+him, and broiled his head, which they afterwards carried with
+them to Dominica. Nor were they satisfied with this horrible
+piece of barbarity; for, to make the tragedy complete, they
+returned to Colonel Carden’s house, seized his wife and children,
+and after telling them of the fate of their kind relative,
+hurried them away into a captivity worse than death.
+
+The Bastian Baijer—whose name appears conspicuous in signing the
+capitulation, and in the after letters which passed between the
+English and the French—was of Dutch extraction, and one who
+emigrated to this island at an early period of its colonization.
+He died in London, in the year 1704, and in his will directed
+that his remains should be interred in the vaults of the Dutch
+church in Austin Friars, which was accordingly done. Many of the
+descendants (or rather representatives, for Bastian Baijer died
+without issue, and left his property to the person who assumed
+his name) of Bastian Baijer have resided in the island until
+within a year or two. The remains of one member of that family,
+Otto Baijer, Esq., moulders beneath the beautiful tomb, a
+description of which will be found in Chapter XV.; and the
+remaining scion of the house, a female, was shortly since united
+to the Hon. Owen Pell, of Antigua, and of Suwell, county of
+Northampton.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[8] It is said, that some part of Lord Willoughby’s fleet escaped
+the hurricane, and reached Jamaica in safety.
+
+[9] It must be remembered, that at the time we are now speaking
+of, surgeons did not hold that respectable rank in society as
+they now—that is, most of them—deservedly fill. Not so very many
+years ago, naval surgeons in particular were very little thought
+of; and even in the British navy, they were required to perform
+the office of barber, as well as attend to the bodily ailments of
+the crew.
+
+[10] To shew the state to which the French reduced the island,
+the following extract from a letter written by Count D’Estrade,
+ambassador from the French king to Charles II. of England, dated
+26th May, 1667, and addressed to Louis XIV., is inserted:—“Il
+nous dit de plus que le Sieur de la Barre avat ruiné celle
+d’Antigoa, et en avait fait transporter tout ce qu’il avait pu
+afin d’être mieux en etat de conserver de St. Christophe.”
+
+_Translation_.—“He”—that is, the deputy from Zealand, with whom
+Count D’Estrade had had a conference at Breda, on 21st May, 1667—
+“informed us, in addition, that the said M. de la Barre had
+ruined the colony of Antigua, and had taken and transported from
+it all that he could, to the end that he might be in a better
+condition to retain possession of St. Christopher’s.”
+
+[11] His tombstone may be still seen in one of the churchyards of
+St. Christopher’s.
+
+[12] For account of this gentleman, see Appendix, No. 3.
+
+[13] “Sir,—My husband has been arrested by two officers and two
+soldiers this night, and what they intend doing with me and my
+family, I know not even now; but I fear that some ill
+consequences will attend it. I beseech you humbly, Sir, seeing
+that myself and family are abandoned by our countrymen, that it
+may please you to protect us who have never assailed you; and
+myself, and family, and many others, shall pray for your
+prosperity; and I take the boldness to qualify myself,
+
+       “Sir, your very humble and very obedient servant,
+
+                                                  “Mary Carden.”
+
+[14] “Sir,—I should have had the honour of waiting upon you, but
+I have been intercepted by the order of Governor Fitche, and I
+have been in custody since. I hope, Sir, you will not believe or
+think otherwise of him who takes the liberty of subscribing
+himself, Sir, yours, &c.,
+
+                                                “Robert Carden.”
+
+[15] “Sir,—We have received your summons to come on board to
+deliver our arms and ammunition; which thing, such is the change
+in our affairs since your departure, as not to permit of our
+doing. The lieut.-general of our king having sent Colonel Daniel
+Fitche as his governor, has given him power over all the militia
+of this island. Thus, Sir, we are become entirely unable to give
+you any satisfactory answer; and, upon examination of the
+transactions which have taken place, we have found that they were
+so much to our prejudice, and in particular, sending the Caribs
+twice upon us, against the obligation of your articles and the
+laws of nations; persons who are cruel, entirely barbarous, and
+ignorant of God and of all civilities. However, Sir, we pray you,
+as we have already done, to address your demands to our governor,
+who alone is experienced in matters of war. In the meantime, we
+remain, yours, &c. &c.,
+                      “Bastien Baijer.        Gilbert Gregory.
+                       Philip Warner.         Henry Reynall.
+                       Richard Boraston.      Jeremiah Watkins.
+                       Samuel Winthorpe.”
+
+[16] “Sir,—We have received your letter, to which we cannot at
+present give any other answer, but that it is not in our power to
+yield to your summons, nor to agree to anything done before;
+because, since your departure from here, Colonel Daniel Fitche is
+arrived, with commission from the lieutenant-general as governor,
+in obedience to an order from the king, which has been published.
+It is to the said governor that your summons and demands must be
+addressed, for he is the sole commander of the militia. We think
+that we have suffered great injury at the rupture of the articles
+concerning the Caribs, who attacked us twice in their wonted
+manner, which is cruel and barbarous. We would be glad to see
+you, _if you wish_, for we expect here, fifteen ships from
+Barbados, five of which are of fifteen guns each, and two of
+sixty; and eight merchantmen, of twenty to thirty guns; with a
+thousand of the king’s soldiers, _dressed in their red jackets_,
+and a quantity of arms. By coming, you will render service. We
+remain, &c.,
+
+                                       “Bastien Baijer, &c. &c.”
+
+[17] “Sir,—We have sent this morning the only answer we could
+give, being under the command and authority of the governor, to
+whose power we could not resist; but as we have shewn him the
+reason of our first treaty, and our refusal to break it, we have
+done so much that he has agreed with us, provided he be included
+in it, with the rest of the inhabitants: the said treaty and
+agreement will be punctually ratified and executed in all its
+parts.
+
+                                       “Bastien Baijer, &c. &c.”
+
+[18] “Gentlemen,—I have been much surprised when I saw that you
+made no answer to the summons given you, and much more yet when I
+read the letters you sent me this morning, in which you charge us
+with having treated you with rigour, which is seeking for a
+pretence of rupture, as you have done by not keeping your faith
+and word. I am landing and coming to you, to teach you your duty
+by force of arms: those who will lay down their arms will have
+good quarter from me, and the others shall be treated according
+to the rigour of war. Your servant,
+
+                                                   “De Clodore.”
+
+[19] It was for some time pending in the mind of Louis XIV.
+whether he should, or should not, restore Antigua to its rightful
+sovereign; and several letters passed between the King of the
+French and his ambassador, Count D’Estrade, (the deputy from
+Zealand assuring the count that he would use his influence to
+retain Antigua for his majesty, should such be his wish,) upon
+the subject. At length, however, Louis XIV., after much
+hesitation, authorized its rendition by a letter to Count
+D’Estrade, dated 6th May, 1667, of which the following is a
+translation:—
+
+“I have always forgotten to inform you, and even to put it in
+your instructions, that it is my intention to surrender the
+island of Antigua to the English, which belonged to them before
+the war. Thus you will make no difficulty by promising, by the
+treaty (of Breda), that all things shall be established in the
+island of St. Christopher, and that of Antigua, as they were
+previously to the rupture,” &c.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+
+  Governors: Lord William Willoughby, Henry Willoughby—Arrival of
+  Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the progenitor of
+  the family of that name—Biographical remarks—Partition of the
+  Caribbee Islands—Sir William Stapleton—General Council and
+  Assembly—Colonel Philip Warner—Expedition against the Caribs—
+  Death of Indian Warner—Arrest and trial of Colonel P. Warner—
+  Acquittal—Dampier’s account of this affair—Captain Southey’s
+  History of the Indian Warner.
+
+After peace had been once more proclaimed between France and
+England, and Antigua restored to its rightful sovereign, the
+English government, being fully assured of the death of Lord
+Francis Willoughby, appointed Lord William Willoughby, of Parham,
+(who when the royalists rose against the parliament, after the
+deposition of Richard Cromwell, undertook to secure Lynn for his
+exiled majesty,) Captain-General and chief Governor of Barbados,
+Antigua, and the rest of the Leeward Caribbee Islands, as some
+reward for his services.
+
+Lord William Willoughby arrived at Antigua about 1668, and
+appointed Samuel Winthorpe his deputy-governor. During the first
+year of his lordship’s administration, a registrar’s office was
+established, and fees appointed for the same. The registrar and
+recorder was to be “a person of good discretion and honesty,” and
+his salary paid in sugar and tobacco.[20] Acts were also passed
+for the “settling the inhabitants in their lands” and “for the
+encouragement and promoting the settling of the island”—very
+necessary measures, as all was in confusion, from the late cruel
+dealing of the French, in so dismantling their promising colony.
+This year also (1668) commenced the four and a half per cent.
+duty; which was an impost upon all native productions shipped
+from the island, to be paid to the reigning monarch, his heirs,
+and successors, in consideration of new grants of lands being
+given to the inhabitants after the restoration of Antigua to the
+English crown; all old titles to lands having become void by
+reason of the late conquest, by the French.
+
+Lord William Willoughby removing to Barbados about this time,
+nominated his son, Henry Willoughby, as acting-governor, the same
+gentleman who was left by Lord F. Willoughby deputy-governor of
+Barbados during his absence upon the disastrous expedition
+already spoken of. Nothing of much importance occurred during the
+short period Mr. H. Willoughby held the government. War had not
+broken out in the West Indies, although it threatened the mother
+country, so that the Antiguans had a little quiet to settle their
+domestic affairs. One of the first points to which they turned
+their attention was to endeavour to suppress the strong habit of
+profane cursing and swearing which had crept in among their
+community, and also to put a stop to the prevalence of inebriety.
+To bring this desirable reformation about, the legislature
+enacted, that a fine of ten pounds of sugar, or tobacco, was to
+be imposed upon every one who uttered an oath, or opened his lips
+to curse; and if any one was discovered in a state of
+intoxication, he could be made to pay fifty pounds of sugar, or
+not being able to procure that quantity, and being possessed of
+no other property which could be levied upon, he was condemned to
+be placed in the public stocks for the space of four hours. It
+would be well if something of the kind was in force now; our ears
+would not then, perhaps, be so frequently shocked as they are
+liable to be at every hour of the day by the passers-by.
+Regulations were also made for establishing a public treasury in
+the island, and regard paid to the martial bearing of the
+inhabitants, by exercising them in the science of arms.
+
+Among the settlers who came to Antigua with Francis Lord
+Willoughby, of Parham, was William Byam, a distinguished
+royalist, at that time major, but who afterwards acquired the
+rank of lieutenant-general.
+
+In 1644, Mayor Byam was among the officers in garrison at
+Bridgewater, and being on guard when an attempt was made by the
+parliamentary army to take the town by surprise, he defeated the
+forces with great slaughter, thereby averting for some time the
+fate of that important fortress. On the following year, Cromwell
+and Fairfax coming against Bridgewater with an overwhelming
+power, after a gallant and desperate resistance, the town was
+taken, and quarter only given to the garrison. The officers were
+immediately sent to London, and put at the disposal of the
+Parliament, whence they were despatched to the Tower, and other
+public prisons. After remaining in the Tower for some months,
+Major Byam accepted a pass “to go beyond the seas,” (as the term
+then was,) and, with some of his military friends, he accordingly
+left the home of his fathers, and sought in Barbados—that last
+asylum for royalists—a retreat from the Oliverian power. Soon
+after his arrival, the important post of “treasurer of the
+island,” as well as “master of the ordnance,” was conferred upon
+him, together with large grants of land; but the number of
+_refugees_ increasing in the colony to such a surprising height,
+the Parliament became alarmed, and, in 1651, sent a fleet and
+armament, under command of Sir George Ayscue, to reduce the
+island. There being a defection in the garrison, owing to the
+withdrawal of Colonel Thomas Modiford from the side of the king,
+after a resistance of six months, the governor, Lord Francis
+Willoughby, of Parham, was compelled to think of terms; and
+accordingly he appointed, along with three other commissioners,
+Major Byam to negotiate a surrender. This gentleman and his
+coadjutors performed their parts so ably, that they obtained from
+the admiral terms allowed by all historians as alike
+“comprehensive and honourable.” Indeed, when they were reported
+to England, though the Parliament did not refuse to ratify them,
+yet, considering them much too favourable, they never afterwards
+countenanced Sir George Ayscue. The very first act of the
+Parliament possession, contrary to the tenor of some of the
+articles, was to banish Mayor Byam and the other commissioners,
+and about ten more of the royalists, including Lord Willoughby
+himself. Major Byam retired to the then newly-founded settlement
+of Surinam, which being composed chiefly of the refugee followers
+of Charles, they, in those times of turmoil, elected him, by
+united suffrages, governor of the colony in 1654. In this
+situation he continued for six successive years, although
+Cromwell had despatched an officer of his own to take the
+command, being elected by universal voice, until the Restoration,
+when, in virtue of the proclamation at that time issued, he
+became governor for the crown. He was afterwards more formally
+confirmed in this appointment, in which he remained until the
+removal of the colony (or at least a large portion of it) to the
+island of Antigua, in virtue of the treaty of Breda, in 1667. Of
+this island he also became an early governor, as is still to be
+seen by many documents in the registrar’s office, and resumed to
+himself that property which he had before acquired when on a
+visit to the island with Francis Lord Willoughby in 1650; and
+now, by letters patent for the crown, under date April, 1668,
+20th Charles II., among the estates of Lieutenant-General Byam
+renewed to him at this period, were the present Cedar Hill and
+his Willoughby Bay estate.[21]
+
+In 1672, his majesty Charles II. deemed it proper to make some
+alteration in the affairs of the West Indies. Hitherto all the
+Caribbee Islands were united under one government, but after the
+return of Lord William Willoughby to England, the king entered
+into fresh arrangements with the colonies, appointed him
+captain-general of Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent’s and
+Dominica; and Sir William Stapleton captain-general and
+commander-in-chief of Antigua and the other Leeward Islands. This
+Windward Island’s separation continues at the present time, after
+undergoing many changes, by having their own particular governor;
+as far as regards Barbados, St Lucia, and St. Vincent’s. Dominica
+has at length been united with Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, St.
+Christopher’s, Anguilla, Tortola, and the Virgin Islands, which
+now form the Leeward Caribbee government.
+
+During the general government, a general council and assembly was
+held at either of the islands whenever the legislature deemed any
+important matter rendered it necessary to convene them; but the
+respective islands in the government, however, retained each
+their laws as regarded local circumstances. When the
+commander-in-chief found it necessary for the public good to call
+together this general council and assembly, the freeholders of
+each island met together and made choice of five eligible
+inhabitants to act as their representatives.
+
+The convening of this general council and assembly accounts for
+the affairs of these different islands being wound up together,
+and laws which were passed at the one, answering, in many
+instances, for the others.
+
+Sir William Stapleton preferring Nevis, he made that island the
+seat of government, and Colonel Philip Warner (Sir Thomas
+Warner’s son by his second wife) was appointed governor of
+Antigua. A very necessary precaution was adopted about this time—
+namely, the preventing persons wandering about cane-pieces, with
+lighted torches, hunting for land-crabs. If a free person was
+found so offending, the culprit was to pay into the public
+treasury one thousand pounds of sugar or tobacco; or if a slave,
+he was to be publicly whipped. This very dangerous practice
+continues to this day in seasons when the land-crabs are upon
+their travels, and certainly ought to meet with some punishment.
+So careless and thoughtless are the negroes, that large pieces of
+fire are frequently dropped upon the road while thus employed,
+which they never think of extinguishing; and as the scene of
+their exploits is generally in the vicinity of cane-pieces, where
+there is often a large quantity of dry cane-leaves, called in the
+country idiom, trash, serious accidents might, and indeed have
+been the result.
+
+It was also deemed advisable to ordain that marriages solemnized
+by the governor, council, or any justice of peace, should, in
+absence of beneficed clergymen from the island, be adjudged
+equally binding and lawful, as if the ceremony had been performed
+by an orthodox minister. This was a regulation very necessary in
+that early period, when there was as yet no established church
+erected, or any clergymen officiating in the colony; and,
+consequently, marriages were obliged to be celebrated by a civil
+power. It was also enacted by the legislature this year (1672),
+that slaves killed or maimed, while acting in defence of the
+country, should have their value ascertained by arbitration, and
+the amount paid over to their owners from the public treasury.
+
+In 1674, the inhabitants of Antigua presented an address to the
+captain-general, Sir William Stapleton, praying him to grant them
+a commission “to kill and destroy the Indians inhabiting the
+island of Dominica.”
+
+From the period when Antigua was first settled by the English,
+the Caribs, as we have already seen, had been in the constant
+habit of landing upon it, and perpetrating the most fearful and
+horrid acts of violence upon its inhabitants. So frequent and
+barbarous were these attacks, that the colony at one time was in
+danger of being abandoned; and nothing but firm and vigorous
+measures on the part of the English could restrain the fury of
+their Indian adversaries, and quell their turbulent assaults.
+
+As soon, therefore, as his excellency, Sir William Stapleton,
+acceded to the request of the Antiguans in granting a commission,
+a large party of volunteers was formed, aided by some of the
+settlers from the neighbouring islands, of which, at the earnest
+entreaties of the council and assembly of Antigua, Governor
+Philip Warner took the command. They immediately proceeded to
+Dominica; and however different historians may relate the events
+of this action, they all concur in stating, that the English
+obtained a most signal victory over their Indian foes. In this
+fray the illegitimate son of Sir Thomas Warner, by a Carib woman—
+who was generally known by the name of Thomas Warner, or “Indian
+Warner,” and who is said to have headed the Indians in many of
+their attacks upon the English—fell, as it is supposed, by the
+hands of his half-brother, Philip Warner, the governor of
+Antigua. Whether this deed was done by open warfare, or by
+treacherous means, is uncertain; but, upon the return of Colonel
+Philip Warner, the governor, to Antigua, after the reduction of
+the Caribs, the circumstances of the death of Indian Warner were
+inquired into either by Sir William Stapleton or Lord Willoughby,
+the results of which were, that Colonel Philip Warner was sent to
+England to stand his trial for the murder of his half-brother.
+After being kept in the Tower of London for some time, Colonel
+Warner was placed on board the Phoenix frigate, and despatched to
+Barbados, in order that he might be tried in the Court of Oyer
+and Terminer in that island.
+
+This resolution, on the part of the home government, was no
+sooner known in Antigua, than a strong remonstrance was drawn up
+in the name of the inhabitants, and after being signed by sixteen
+of the most influential men among the legislature, was
+transmitted to the justices for the trial of Colonel Warner at
+Barbados, setting forth the facts, that it was only through the
+most earnest prayer of the Antiguans, and not from any private
+motives of his own, that he was induced to take the command upon
+the attack of the Caribs, in which action the Indian Warner fell.
+The facts of this case being fully investigated, Colonel Warner
+was honourably acquitted, his lands,[22] which he had quietly
+yielded up on being sent to England for trial, were restored, and
+he was again permitted to exercise the functions of governor of
+Antigua.
+
+It certainly appears rather extraordinary that Colonel Warner
+should have stood his trial for this massacre of the Indians,
+when we find, that for more than fifty years after this
+occurrence, the Caribs were still hunted and destroyed as so many
+reptiles; but Indian Warner was one who ranked rather high in the
+opinion of Lord William Willoughby, and probably that nobleman
+felt incensed at his death. Many are the opinions of writers upon
+this subject. While some look upon Colonel Warner as the
+unjustified murderer of his half-brother; others are led to
+palliate the circumstances on the plea of Indian Warner being the
+chief actor in those cruel Carib attacks, which were generally
+made upon unarmed Englishmen, or their defenceless wives and
+children.
+
+Dampier, one of the greatest navigators among the Buccaneers,
+(before that name had acquired a dread from the lawless and
+bloody deeds its chieftains committed,) visited Antigua about the
+period of Indian Warner’s death; and in his history of his
+voyages he has the following passage:—“About this time (1674) the
+Caribbees had done some spoil on our English plantations at
+Antego, and therefore Governor Warner’s son by his wife took a
+party of men, and went to suppress these Indians, and came to the
+place where his brother _Indian_ Warner lived. Great seeming joy
+there was at their meeting, but how far real the event shewed;
+for the _English_ Warner, providing plenty of liquor, and
+inviting his half-brother to be merry with him, in the midst of
+his entertainment, ordered his men, upon a signal given, to
+murder him and all his Indians, which was accordingly performed.
+The reason of this inhuman action is diversely reported. Some say
+that this Indian Warner committed all the spoil that was done to
+the English, and for that reason his brother killed him and his
+men. Others, that he was a great friend to the English, and would
+not suffer his men to hurt them, but did all that lay in his
+power to draw them to an amicable commerce; and that his brother
+killed him because he was ashamed to be related to an Indian.
+But, be it how it may, he was called in question for the murder,
+and forced to come home, and take his trial in England. Such
+perfidious doings as these, besides the baseness of them, are
+great hindrances of our gaining interest among the Indians.”
+
+Captain Southey, in his “Chronological History of the West
+Indies,” writing of the events of 1674, says—“Sir Thomas Warner’s
+son went with an expedition to suppress the Caribs, who were
+headed by his half-brother, his father’s son by a Carib woman. He
+was received in a friendly manner by his relative. In the middle
+of the repast, upon a signal given, the Caribs were attacked and
+all massacred. Different reasons are given for this act of
+atrocity: one, that the Indian Warner committed all the ravages
+upon the English; another, that the murderer was ashamed of his
+Indian relations.” Evidently Captain Southey took Dampier for his
+guide in relating this circumstance; and other authors, following
+in the wake, have handed Colonel Warner down to posterity, in the
+character of a fratricide. But before his actions are discussed,
+it would be well to lay aside all previously formed opinions,
+and, horrible as fratricide must appear to all, calmly take a
+retrospect of the great cruelties practised by the Caribs on the
+persons of the English, which led to the melancholy incident
+already narrated.[23] Before concluding this subject, it will be
+necessary to mention some further particulars of the Indian
+Warner, the half-brother, of whose death Colonel Philip Warner
+was made amenable.
+
+At the latter end of 1629, after having the honour of knighthood
+conferred upon him by Charles I., Sir Thomas Warner returned from
+England to St. Christopher’s. Soon after his arrival, he entered
+into a league with the French settlers and Mons. D’Esnambuc, the
+captain of a French privateer; and, falling upon the Caribs by
+night, murdered in cold blood one hundred and twenty of the
+men.[24] The females they parted among themselves, and one of the
+handsomest of them fell to the share of Sir Thomas Warner,[25] by
+whom she had a son, a remarkably fine and intelligent lad. About
+the year 1645, when he was fifteen years old,[26] an old Carib
+man, who, by some chance, had remained upon the island after the
+expulsion of his countrymen, informed the boy of the former
+cruelties of the English to his mother’s relations—a tale which
+so exasperated him, that he was determined to escape, the first
+opportunity, and join his Carib friends. At length he effected
+his purpose, and fled to Dominica,[27] where the Caribs had taken
+up their abode after being driven from St. Christopher’s. So
+pleased were the Indians with this display of spirit on the part
+of their young relative, that they received him with open arms,
+looked upon him as their chief, shared with him all their
+predatory booty, and followed him in all his expeditions. In
+1664, Lord Francis Willoughby appointed this half-Carib (who bore
+the name of Thomas Warner) governor of Dominica, then inhabited
+by Indians. In this situation he remained until 1666, when he was
+captured by the French, and carried prisoner to St.
+Christopher’s, (some authors say Guadaloupe,) where he met with
+very harsh treatment, and was not liberated until after the
+peace, and then only at the earnest interposition of Lord William
+Willoughby. After his liberation, he appears to have carried on
+his warfare with the English colonists, until, as already
+mentioned, 1674, when he met his fate in about the forty-fourth
+year of his age.
+
+As perhaps it may be interesting to some of my readers to look
+over the “_Remonstrance_,” alluded to as drawn up by the members
+of the Antigua legislature in 1676, when Colonel Philip Warner
+was tried for the murder of his half-brother—I have inserted it
+in the Appendix, (No. 6.)
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[20] The French having entirely ruined Antigua, it was necessary
+to form all new regulations, as at the first settlement of the
+colony.
+
+[21] For a further account of this gentleman’s family, see
+Appendix, No. 4.
+
+[22] For copy of the Grant of Land to Colonel P. Warner, see
+Appendix, No. 5.
+
+[23] Oldmixon, in his “British America,” says:—“At this time
+(1676) there was a wicked practice in the West Indies, of which
+the English are accused; and that was, their stealing and
+enslaving Indians, which they took on the continent or the
+islands. And one Colonel Warner being charged with this unlawful
+traffic—if it deserves that name—was made a prisoner in England,
+and sent, aboard the Phoenix frigate, to Barbados, to take his
+trial there; but he found so many friends, that he came off.”
+
+[24] Oldmixon, in his History of St Christopher’s, speaking of
+this circumstance, says—“They (the Caribs) were willing enough to
+live peaceably with the Europeans who first landed there, and
+were upon the place when D’Esnambuc came thither; but, upon his
+landing, their boyez, or conjurers, telling them, in a general
+assembly met on purpose, that the foreigners were come to take
+away their country from them, and destroy them root and branch,
+it was resolved to massacre the English.” He goes on to state,
+that the English and French, having gained intelligence of the
+Caribs’ design to _cut their throats_, “fell upon the most
+factious of the natives by night, killed them, and drove the rest
+out of the island.”
+
+[25] Labat mentions seeing this woman at Dominica, and gives the
+following account of her:—“This old savage woman is, I think, the
+oldest creature in the world, being more than a hundred years
+old. They say she had been very handsome, and on account of her
+beauty the English governor at St. Kitts kept her for a
+considerable time. She had a number of children, among which was
+one called _Ouverard_. [_Warner, it ought to be; but Pierre du
+Tertre is not very particular in his orthography of English
+names._] Pierre du Tertre speaks of him in his history; but this
+demi-savage was dead before I came to the West Indies. They
+always continue to call her Madam _Ouverard_. After the English
+sent her to Dominica upon the death of the governor, she was more
+respected for her old age than from being his mistress. Her
+property was rather extensive, and was entirely peopled by her
+children’s children. This old woman was entirely naked, and had
+not two dozen hairs upon her head; her skin resembled old
+parchment completely dried up, as if baked. She was so crooked
+that I could not see her features except when she went to drink
+water. She had a good many teeth in her head, and her eyes were
+perfectly clear.”
+
+[26] Some writers make it sixteen.
+
+[27] Dampier says St Lucia.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER V.
+
+
+
+  Governor Col. R. Williams—Biographical remarks—Towns of trade
+  appointed—Antigua divided into parishes—Sir Nathaniel Johnson
+  appointed captain-general and governor-in-chief—Colonel
+  Codrington—Remarks upon this family—Invasion of Antigua by a
+  French privateer—Attack upon Guadeloupe by the English—
+  Expedition to St. Christopher’s—Gallant conduct of Colonel
+  Williams and Colonel Willoughby Byam—Sir Francis Wheeler’s
+  expedition—Wilmot and Lillingston’s expedition—Death of the
+  captain-general, General Codrington—Colonel John Yeamans,
+  lieutenant-governor—Arrival of Admiral Benbow.
+
+In 1675, Colonel Rowland Williams was appointed
+lieutenant-governor (or, as the phrase then was, deputy-governor)
+of Antigua. This gentleman was possessed of eminent
+qualifications, which honourably distinguished him among his
+contemporaries. He was alike conspicuous as a wise councillor and
+a skilful commander; whether in the senate or the field, he
+equally merited applause. The father of Colonel Williams (as will
+be seen in the genealogy of this family) was one of the earliest
+settlers in Antigua, and even in those times was famed for noble
+virtues—virtues which have descended from father to son, down to
+the present day, and centered themselves in the person of the
+Hon. Rowland E. Williams, the present possessor of “Claremont,”
+the family mansion.[28]
+
+During the administration of Colonel Rowland Williams as governor
+of Antigua, six towns were appointed as places of trade, instead
+of two, as was the former custom. These towns were Falmouth, St.
+John’s, Bridge Town, Carlisle Road, Parham Landing Place, and
+Bermudian Valley. In these different towns all business was to be
+transacted as relates to shipping, &c.; and no vessel was allowed
+to unload or sell their cargo at any other place, under
+punishment of forfeiting their goods. This, however, did not
+debar any freeholder from disposing of his own personal property
+or merchandise at any place in the island he deemed proper.
+
+It does not appear at what particular period a secretary and a
+marshal were appointed; but in 1677 an act was passed relating
+unto such officers.
+
+In 1680, provisions were made for settling the militia, and for
+ensuring a better martial discipline throughout the island.
+
+Antigua was divided into parishes about 1681, which then
+consisted of five—namely, Falmouth, Rendezvous Bay, and part of
+Willoughby Bay, to be the parish of St. Paul’s; the remaining
+part of Willoughby Bay, Nonsuch, and Belfast, to be the parish of
+St. Philip’s; divisions of New and Old North Sound to be the
+parish of St. Peter’s; the divisions of Pope’s Head, Dickerson’s
+Bay, St. John’s, and Five Islands, to be the parish of St.
+John’s; and the divisions of the Road and Bermudian Valley to be
+the parish of St. Mary’s. Churches were also ordered to be
+erected, and all parochial charges to be raised from the
+inhabitants of each parish. The yearly salary of their ministers
+was 16,000lbs. of sugar or tobacco, which was paid to them on the
+24th day of June, being the feast of St. John the Baptist.
+
+The following year (1682) an expedition was despatched to act
+against the Indians of Dominica.
+
+His Majesty Charles II. having departed this life, Sir William
+Stapleton proclaimed his successor, James II. with great pomp, at
+Nevis. An old writer gives a long account of the ceremonies
+observed upon that day—of the gorgeous festival which succeeded,
+and the splendid attire of the governor; but as this work is
+strictly confined to Antigua, such detail will be superfluous.
+
+In 1684, during the administration of Sir William Stapleton,
+slaves were annexed to freeholds, and could be voted upon, the
+same as a freehold, or levied upon for distress. In illustration
+of this, a person possesses a family of slaves—say the mother and
+five or six children, the youngest in arms and drawing its daily
+nutriment from its parent; the owner of these slaves falls into
+difficulties—he owes a certain sum, and his creditor takes out an
+execution against him. The value of the negro woman covers,
+perhaps, the amount of debt, and accordingly she is seized,
+carried away, and sold, probably to a third or even a fourth
+person, and her baby and other children are severed from her, and
+she left alone. Oh! slavery, slavery, how dost thou debase the
+sons of men!
+
+Sir William Stapleton dying, King James appointed Sir Nathaniel
+Johnson, governor-in-chief, who continued to act as such until
+the first year of the reign of William and Mary, when he retired
+to America, and was succeeded in the government by Colonel
+Christopher Codrington in 1689.[29]
+
+Colonel Codrington was so indefatigable in planting and
+cultivating the sugar-cane in Antigua, that he has been termed
+the patron of the island. This gentleman removed from Barbados to
+Antigua in 1674; when he purchased a large quantity of land, and
+formed the first sugar estate upon the island, and, sending for
+his wife and children, constituted himself one of its earliest
+planters. The Codrington family is of old extraction, and many a
+brave warrior has sprang from that source, as British history
+will shew.[30]
+
+About the first year of Colonel Codrington’s government, in 1689,
+the fortifications at Monk Hill were commenced; but they appear
+not to have been carried on with any degree of spirit until 1705.
+This year the crew of a French privateer landed at Five Islands’
+Bay, and burnt and plundered the surrounding country; and carried
+away with them several negroes, besides much spoil. The
+Antiguans, highly incensed at this invasion, placed a small force
+on board an armed vessel under command of Captain Walter
+Hamilton, and pursued the enemy. This plan succeeded, and they
+returned to Antigua with the privateer as a prize; on board of
+which were some Irishmen, who were hung as a warning to others.
+
+The English government was greatly annoyed at these repeated
+attacks upon her West Indian colonies; and William III. made it
+one of his complaints against the French king upon declaring war
+with that monarch. Supposing that, after this war was declared,
+the French would be more active in their incursions, the
+inhabitants of Antigua determined to keep better watch. Sir
+Timothy Thornhill arriving with troops, all military affairs were
+delegated to him; and by his orders, guards were stationed at all
+the bays, and a constant look-out kept. Still the Caribs and a
+few Frenchmen managed to effect a landing, by sailing up some of
+the creeks, and killed ten of the inhabitants, and plundered some
+provision grounds. It was thought proper to appoint some reward
+for soldiers acting valiantly in defence of the island; and to
+make some provision for the wounded, and allowance for the widows
+and children of the slain. If any white servant shewed deeds of
+valour, and could obtain a certificate of such from the hands of
+his officer, that servant was freed,[31] the country paying to
+his master a sum proportionate to his services. If wounded they
+were to receive medical attendance and maintenance free of
+charge; if disabled, to receive yearly 3000lbs. of sugar for
+life; and if killed, their widows were to have the same amount of
+sugar, and the children to be taken care of, and supported by the
+country. The owners of those slaves who fell in defence of the
+country, were also recompensed, by having 5000lbs. of sugar paid
+them from the public stock for every negro killed or mortally
+wounded, instead of having such slaves valued by arbitration, as
+was the plan from the year 1672. Regulations were also gone into
+by the legislature, for the establishing of courts of law, and
+settling due methods for the distribution of justice throughout
+the colony.
+
+About the middle of this year (1689) Colonel Hewetson, with a
+party of men, embarked on board a man of war, and sailed to
+attack Guadaloupe. They landed with but little opposition, and
+having obtained some plunder, and given the French a kind of
+_tit-for-tat_, returned in safety to Antigua. This was a very
+busy year for the Antiguans; for no sooner had Colonel Hewetson
+reached Antigua with his troops, from the late attack, than they
+raised 300 men, and sailed to the island of Marie Galante. Here
+they met with like success in the way of retaliation; beating the
+inhabitants, burning their town, and obtaining more plunder. From
+Marie Galante they proceeded to St. Martin’s, where Fortune, that
+usually fickle goddess, did not forsake them; for they not only
+plundered the place and increased their spoils, but drove the
+French completely off the island. Upon their return, General
+Codrington (for the governor had arrived to this rank) sent three
+sloops, with eighty men, under the command of Captain Edward
+Thorn, to the island of Anguila, to bring from thence all the
+English who resided there; they having been very cruelly used by
+some Irishmen, whom the French had landed there, for that
+purpose, a year before.
+
+1690 was again ushered in by that demon—War. Louis, that
+ambitious, but admired monarch, encouraged his subjects to invade
+the English colonies, in the West Indies and America, while he
+assisted James, the abdicated sovereign, in his attempts upon
+England and Ireland. General Codrington was warmly attached to
+the reigning monarchs, William and Mary, and consequently
+endeavoured on all occasions to further their interest in the
+West Indies. No sooner had accounts arrived at Antigua of the
+battle of the Boyne, and William’s victory over the French troops
+upon that eventful day, than the governor determined to strike a
+blow for the honour of England. Admiral Wright arriving with a
+strong squadron of men of war, General Codrington prevailed upon
+all the other Leeward Islands to raise forces to endeavour to
+retake St. Kitt’s, which had fallen to the French king some time
+before, by the fortunes of war. Antigua, never behind the other
+islands in warlike deeds, raised a body of 400 (or, as some
+authors make it, 800) men, which were placed under the command of
+that gallant officer, Colonel Rowland Williams, and 200 gentlemen
+volunteers, under command of Colonel Willoughby Byam, who served
+as a body-guard to the governor-general, Christopher Codrington;
+and, by dint of prowess, their object was gained, for not only
+did they oblige the French to surrender the island, but,
+according to some authors, actually transported about eighteen
+hundred of them to St. Domingo and Martinique.[32] A general
+council and assembly was held this year, and an agent and
+commissioners appointed for the negotiation and management of the
+affairs of the Leeward Islands, as well as the raising and
+settling a proper fund for the defraying the expense of the same.
+Rewards were also given to the soldiers who acted valiantly in
+the late expedition.
+
+The following year (1691) passed in quietness. The French were
+too much taken up with their European engagements to have much
+force in the West Indies; and Admiral Wright, cruizing about
+these seas, intimidated the few privateers still lurking about.
+It was deemed necessary by the legislature this year to enact a
+law, obliging all the members of the assembly to serve in such
+capacity when elected.
+
+The year 1692 was chiefly passed in settling island business, and
+making laws to redress several grievances which were severely
+felt by the inhabitants. One of these was as follows: after the
+reduction of this island, and its restoration to the English in
+1667, a great many persons pretended to have a right to large
+portions of land, by virtue of grants prior to the war, but which
+they had failed to cultivate. The consequence of this was, that
+the country was rapidly going to ruin; and the only way to avert
+it was, by government granting these lands to more industrious
+persons, as an encouragement to them to settle. When, after a
+lapse of time, the former possessors found their barren and
+uncultivated lands turned into profitable estates, they came
+forward and claimed them as their own; and so annoying were these
+threatenings to those who had worked the change, that although
+they had spent both time and money, they preferred leaving the
+island, and seeking some other home. To rectify this, it was
+determined by the legislature this year, that all persons who
+possessed lands by grants from government should be confirmed in
+the same, providing they had held them for five years. Still,
+that justice might be equally imparted to all, if the former
+possessors put in their claim within two years, and it was
+allowed by a jury that they had a right to the same, they could
+demand the value of their lands as they were when they left them.
+A vestry was this year elected, churchwardens appointed, and a
+parish register ordered to be kept in each of the parishes in the
+island. In this register, all christenings, marriages, and
+burials were to be entered, under penalty of 5l. currency, the
+fee for which was 9d. currency each. An act was also passed for
+the settling of general councils and assemblies.
+
+The next year (1693) was celebrated for the endeavours of the
+Antiguans to destroy the remaining Caribs; and for this reason,
+great encouragement was given to those persons who fitted out
+privateers to destroy them and take their canoes. In the early
+part of the year, Sir Francis Wheeler arrived at Barbados, with
+an expected squadron of English men-of-war, intended for an
+attack upon the island of Martinique, when intelligence was
+immediately despatched to Antigua, in order that General
+Codrington might join him with the Antigua and other Leeward
+Island troops. In this expedition, Sir Francis Wheeler commanded
+the men-of-war, (on board of which were Colonel Foulks and
+Colonel Godwin’s regiments of foot, and 200 recruits, under
+command of Colonel Lloyd,) and Colonel Foulks the land forces. On
+the 30th of March, the fleet left Barbados, having on board two
+Barbados’ regiments, which, including the gentlemen-volunteers,
+consisted of about 1500 men, and arrived at Martinique on the 1st
+of April.
+
+The fleet anchored in the Cul de Sac Marine, on the south side of
+the island; and Sir Francis Wheeler, attended by Colonel Foulks
+and Colonel Lloyd, went in a boat to search for a good
+landing-place for the troops. Their movements were, however,
+watched by a party of French guards, one of whom fired a musket,
+the shot of which striking Sir Francis upon the breast,
+occasioned a severe contusion. The next morning, Colonel Foulks
+landed 1500 men without opposition; and during the day, the whole
+of the forces were gathered together on shore, where they
+commenced the work of destruction by burning the houses and
+sugar-works, the inhabitants fleeing for safety into the woods.
+
+In the course of the few following days, General Codrington
+joined the expedition with the Antigua and other Leeward Island
+forces, and Colonel Lloyd’s regiment, when it was determined, in
+a council of war, to sail and attack St. Pierre, the principal
+town upon the island. Here, however, the English appear to have
+acted a very indifferent part; for, after destroying a few
+plantations, and standing some slight skirmishing with the
+French, they abandoned their plans of endeavouring to take the
+town; and, upon the plea of the troops being sickly, re-embarked
+their men, and left the island. Colonel Foulks, Colonel Godwin,
+Major Abrahall, with some of the other officers, died of their
+wounds on board the vessels; and the Antigua and other island
+troops returned to their respective colonies.
+
+Thus ended an expedition, from which had been expected great
+results. According to an early historian, if the regulars had
+done their duty, as the Antiguan and the other island troops did,
+the whole of the French sugar islands might have been
+dispossessed, for the English forces amounted to between 3000 and
+4000 men. The French were, however, very much alarmed, and many
+of “the richest inhabitants shipped themselves and their valuable
+effects for France, some of whom were intercepted by the
+English.” Sir Francis Wheeler then steered for Boston, in
+America, intending to have proceeded against Quebec; but finding
+his arguments overruled by the Bostonians, he returned in disgust
+to England, with his vessels in a very shattered condition, and
+having lost half of his men.
+
+This officer was noted for his misfortunes, which could neither
+be attributed to want of courage nor want of judgment, but to
+circumstances over which he had no control. We have seen how
+unfortunate was his expedition to the West Indies; and although
+not altogether connected with this work, we may just glance at
+his after-fate. About 1694, he was appointed commander-in-chief
+of the Mediterranean squadron, with orders to take under his
+convoy the merchant ships trading to Turkey, Italy, and Spain;
+there to join the Spanish fleet in cruising about until the
+return of the Turkish ships, when he was to accompany them home.
+After receiving these orders, he sailed from the roads of St.
+Helens, off the Isle of Wight, and arrived in safety at Cadiz,
+where, leaving Rear-Admiral Hopson, he proceeded for the
+Mediterranean. In passing through the Bay of Gibraltar, he met
+with very bad weather under a lee-shore. The ground was so foul
+that there was no hold for an anchor; but as there was no other
+plan they could follow, they were obliged to drop them. Several
+of the ships were driven on shore, of which many were entirely
+lost. The Admiral’s ship foundered at sea, and with the exception
+of two Moors, all perished in those tideless waters.
+
+In 1694, a general council and assembly was held at Antigua,
+when, among other business, it was deemed necessary to place a
+certain value upon all foreign coins in circulation throughout
+the Leeward Caribbee Islands. To avoid disputes in electing
+members to serve in these general councils and assemblies, it was
+proposed that in future the secretary should take the votes of
+the freeholders upon oath in their presence, and admit no vote
+but from a known freeholder of the respective island in person.
+But if, after these precautions, disputes should still occur, the
+legislature was to determine the cause.
+
+The year 1695 will be long remembered in English history as that
+of the siege of Namur; which action, glorious as it was, would
+not have been mentioned here, did not two gentlemen, well known
+in Antigua, make themselves conspicuous by their courage and
+noble bearing on that occasion. One of these distinguished
+characters was Christopher Codrington, Esq., son of General
+Codrington, the commander-in-chief, and afterwards governor
+himself; a gentleman not only celebrated for his bravery, where
+all were brave, but also as being the most accomplished person of
+his day. The other individual was Sir William Mathew, afterwards
+Captain-General of the Leeward Islands.
+
+While these warlike deeds were going on in Europe, a squadron had
+been sent to the West Indies to protect the trade and harass the
+enemy. This squadron was placed under the joint command of
+Captain Robert Wilmot and Colonel Lillingston, and consisted of
+about 1200 land forces, augmented by troops from Antigua, and
+some other of the West Indian islands. This expedition, like that
+of Sir Francis Wheeler’s, proved unfortunate; the sea and land
+officers disagreed, and instead of acting with each other, they
+pursued opposite courses. Their first attempt was against St.
+Domingo; but instead of proceeding to take the capital, Captain
+Wilmot plundered the surrounding country for his own good; and
+although Colonel Lillingston remonstrated with him, he would not
+listen to reason. Finding the ill success of their endeavours,
+the West Indian troops determined to return to their respective
+homes: the Spaniards, who had joined them against their common
+enemy, the French, became disgusted, and withdrew; and the
+commanders themselves, disappointed of their expected captures,
+set sail for England. They lost one of their ships in the Gulf of
+Florida, and Captain Wilmot died on his passage. This year the
+Antiguans lost some of their merchant-ships, as did many of the
+other West India Islands, by their falling into the hands of the
+French privateers, who swarmed about the entrance of the English
+Channel.
+
+The following year passed in quietness in Antigua. The
+secretary’s office was appointed as the place where all the
+island laws were to be lodged. Before this period, it appears
+that there was no particular place appointed to keep the public
+records; and consequently many valuable papers became mislaid or
+lost. This year, (1696,) the Hastings frigate was at Antigua, and
+sailed for London as convoy to a fleet of eleven ships, which
+were eleven weeks upon their voyage.
+
+In 1697, public pounds were erected in the several towns of
+Antigua, and imposts laid upon all liquors imported into the
+island. This had been hitherto a custom, but had expired some
+short time before.
+
+The year 1698 was a year of mourning to the Antiguans; their
+friend and patron, as well as governor, breathed his last sigh,
+and exchanged an earthly for a heavenly home. General Codrington
+was, as before remarked, the first person who planted the
+sugar-cane in Antigua: its chief productions before were indigo,
+ginger, and tobacco. He removed from Barbados (of which island he
+was a native) in 1674; and some authors make that year his
+appointment to the governor-generalship of the Leeward Islands,
+and that of Colonel Rowland Williams, deputy-governor of Antigua.
+This assertion is, however, evidently incorrect; for we have
+already seen, that Sir William Stapleton was acting as such at
+that period. The mistake must have arisen from General Codrington
+having removed to Antigua in that year.
+
+After the demise of General Codrington, the captain-general of
+the Leeward Islands, Colonel John Yeamans, a resident proprietor
+of Antigua, exercised the office of governor of the island.
+
+The Antiguans came to the resolution this year (1698) of
+appointing an agent for the island, who was to reside in London,
+and solicit the confirmation of such laws as should from time to
+time be made in Antigua, as well as to transact any other island
+business. The salary then given was 100l. sterling per annum, to
+commence from 1st January, 1689; but since the year 1800, it has
+been augmented. About this period, the notorious Captain Kidd[33]
+paid Antigua a visit; but finding the coast of North America
+would afford him a better harvest, he did not remain long.
+
+In 1699, the gallant Admiral Benbow arrived at Antigua with a
+squadron of men-of-war, having on board Colonel Collingwood’s
+regiment, (or, more probably, Col. Whetham’s regiment, known as
+the “Enniskillen,” or 27th regiment of the line;) part of which
+was intended to be stationed upon the island, and the remainder
+to be sent to the other colonies within the government.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[28] For the Genealogy of the Williams family, see Appendix, No.
+7.
+
+[29] Sir Nathaniel Johnson was appointed, in 1704, Governor of
+Carolina.—Vide History of Carolina.
+
+[30] For further particulars of this family, vide Appendix, No.
+8.
+
+[31] The persons to whom these rewards were given, owed their
+residence in Antigua to the following cause:—To increase the
+white population, great encouragement was given to persons
+importing white protestant men-servants into the island, paying
+to the importer to much per head from the public treasury. These
+white servants were sold for a certain number of years, and at
+the end of that time they became free, and were incited to
+settle, by having small grants of land given to them. Every
+proprietor was obliged to have one of these white servants to so
+many slaves; and they were to be furnished with clothes and arms,
+and to serve in the militia. It was customary to sell them upon
+hogsheads, which I shall have further occasion to mention when I
+come to treat of the white inhabitants.
+
+[32] Extract from the London Gazette, No. 2602, published by
+authority, from Thursday, October 16th, to Monday, October 20th,
+1690, giving an account of the capture of St Christopher’s, the
+forces for which service arrived in Frigate Bay, in that island,
+20th June; the French offered to surrender on the 12th July, and
+articles agreed to on the 14th July:—
+
+“Colonel Byam was dangerously wounded in the neck.”
+
+Extract from “London Gazette,” 4th to 8th September, 1690. No.
+2590:—
+
+                                           “Bermudas, July 24th.
+
+“On the 20th June, the English arrived at St. Christopher’s,
+consisting of eleven men of war, besides fire-ships and tenders,
+and other vessels, under command of Captain Wright, who was
+himself in the Mary of 64 guns, and 450 men. These ships had on
+board 3000 land forces—viz., 700 English soldiers, commanded by
+Colonel Holt; 800 Nevis and Barbados soldiers, commanded by Sir
+Timothy Thornhill; 800 Antigua, commanded by Colonel Rowland
+Williams; 400 Montserrat men, commanded by Colonel Blackstone,
+and 200 gentlemen volunteers, commanded by Colonel Willoughby
+Byam, which served as a life guard to Colonel Codrington,
+governor of the Leeward Islands, and general on this expedition.
+The conduct of which forces was much commended in the second
+Gazette from 16th to 20th October.”
+
+[33] The colonists of North America had, for the last few years,
+been greatly addicted to piracy: a practice which it behoved the
+English government to put an immediate stop to, if possible. A
+person of the name of Kidd, the owner of a small sloop, and who
+had been early inured to a maritime life, proposed, that if a
+vessel of thirty guns, well manned, was placed under his command,
+he would agree to suppress the pirates, and effectually clear
+those seas from such dangerous frequenters. After some delay, a
+vessel was equipped by private subscription, and Kidd appointed
+to the command; but instead of proceeding upon his mission to the
+American seas, he sailed for the East Indies, where he engaged in
+the unlawful traffic himself, captured some traders, and, after
+burning his own vessel, sailed in the largest of his prize ships
+for the Leeward Islands. After remaining there for a short
+period, he proceeded in his piratical career to the coast of
+North America, where, in his search after wealth, he perpetrated
+those revolting cruelties which have rendered his name infamous,
+and long caused the inhabitants of those colonies to chat around
+their winter’s hearth of the deeds and fate of the redoubted
+Captain Kidd, the lawless rover of the seas.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+
+  Governor Colonel Christopher Codrington—Establishment of the
+  first market—Accession of Queen Anne—Arrival of Admiral Benbow—
+  Attack upon the island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction with the
+  Antiguan troops—Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam—Arrival of
+  Captain Hovenden Walker—Second attack upon Guadaloupe—Colonel
+  Codrington quits the government—His death—Sir William Mathew—
+  Hon. John Johnson.
+
+At the period of his father’s death, Christopher Codrington,
+Esq., the eldest son of the preceding governor, was in Holland,
+with his sovereign and his army; but upon the news arriving of
+General Codrington’s demise, William III. immediately appointed
+Christopher to succeed his late father as Captain-General and
+Commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, in which capacity he
+arrived at Antigua, in the year 1700.
+
+In the same year, regulations were framed by the legislature, to
+further increase the number of white inhabitants, and encourage
+the soldiers who had been lately disbanded, to settle in the
+island, by giving them grants of ten acres of land, and
+authorizing the treasurer to advance to each of them, as a loan,
+the sum of 3l., a barrel of beef, and a cask of flour. Such
+soldiers as were unprovided with grants were to be allowed 6d.
+per day, until the time they were put into possession; and those
+who chose to emigrate from the islands to leeward of Antigua,
+were allowed 12s. for their passage-money. All tavern-keepers,
+owners of sloops, &c., were also obliged to employ white men,
+under a penalty of 30s. for each offence.
+
+In 1702, the first market-place was established, cross streets
+laid out, and the town of St. John’s otherwise improved. A clerk
+of the market was appointed, who was also to be the public
+whipper and crier; town-wardens were elected, whose duty was to
+assess houses and lands; and a cage, pillory, stocks,
+whipping-post, and ducking-stool,[34] put up at the public
+expense. Night-watches were also appointed, to have the same
+power as watchmen in London, and a watch-house built in a
+convenient spot. Many of the wharfs were also constructed, and
+other improvements made.
+
+William III. having died the 8th of the preceding March, Queen
+Anne, his successor, was proclaimed at Antigua, in June, 1702,
+with some pomp; as also at Nevis, where the captain-general was
+holding a general council and assembly. Punishments were also
+enacted this year for the offences of slaves, and for the better
+government of free negroes. If a slave struck a white person, and
+in any way hurt or disfigured him, such slave was to have _his
+nose slit_, or _any member cut off_, or to suffer death, at the
+discretion of a justice of peace. Any slaves running away from
+their owners for the space of three months, were also to suffer
+death, have a limb cut off, or be publicly whipped—the treasurer
+paying to the owner 18l. in case of death. If, in pursuit of a
+runaway slave, the parties killed him, they were not liable to
+prosecution.
+
+With regard to free negroes, and _mulattoes_, by which was meant
+all persons of colour, they were obliged to choose a master or a
+mistress to live with, unless they possessed land of their own;
+and if they dared to strike a white servant, they were to be
+severely whipped. No free negro could possess more than eight
+acres of land; nor could any minister marry such person to a
+slave, under a penalty of fifty pounds.
+
+The military affairs were also regulated. The island militia were
+to consist of infantry and carbineers, under one of which all the
+male white inhabitants, from the age of fourteen to sixty-five,
+were to be included. One day in every month was to be set apart
+for the troops to be exercised; and once in a year a grand
+rendezvous was to take place at Boyer’s Pasture, in the division
+of North Sound, when prizes were to be distributed to those who
+made the best six shots at a target. The prizes consisted of six
+silver-hilted swords, with belts, valued at 6l. currency. Martial
+law was also ordained to be in full force at any period when
+there were fears of insurrections or invasions. Fines were also
+imposed for various offences, such as absence from parade, &c.
+Privates who could not raise the money, were, in default of
+paying such fines as they had incurred, to be picketed, or _tied
+neck and heels for an hour_.
+
+This year (1702) Admiral Benbow again visited Antigua, and war
+having broken out with France, the captain-general, Colonel
+Christopher Codrington, resolved, in conjunction with that brave
+officer, to make an attack upon Guadaloupe. The merchants of
+Antigua, who were then a numerous body, equipped several
+privateers to serve under the admiral’s flag; and the
+captain-general, Colonel Codrington, raised a regiment of
+soldiers, which were placed under the command of Colonel Edward
+Byam. On the 7th March, the land and sea forces were abreast the
+island of Guadaloupe, from whence the French fired at them,
+killing one man, and wounding a boy on board the commodore’s
+ship. The fleet laid off and on until the 10th of the same,
+waiting for the “Maidstone” man-of-war, with some other of his
+Majesty’s vessels, from Maria Galante, when, upon their arrival,
+Admiral Benbow came to an anchor on the north-west side of the
+island. After burning some plantations along the coast, on the
+12th, Colonel Byam, with his regiment, and a detachment of 200
+men of Colonel Whetham’s regiment, landed at “Les Petits
+Habitans,” where Colonel Byam distinguished himself by his great
+bravery; and, with the united assistance of the regulars, obliged
+the French to retire. The English next attacked a town called
+“Bogliffe,” which, after some resistance, they took, as also the
+Jacobin’s church, on which the French had planted ten pieces of
+cannon. After many other successes, among which was taking the
+breast-work along the Jacobin river, the strongest fortifications
+the French possessed, the English proceeded to Basseterre, the
+capital; and this town they, no doubt, would have also taken, had
+it not been for the unhappy differences arising between the
+commanders, and which, combined with the illness of the troops,
+occasioned the English to withdraw from the island at a time when
+victory was almost sure.
+
+After quitting the island of Guadaloupe, the fleet proceeded for
+Antigua; but Admiral Benbow, hearing of the arrival of the French
+admiral with ten ships of the line in these latitudes, went in
+search of them. As it does not appear any of the Antiguan forces
+joined him, we will only briefly remark that, falling in with the
+squadron, a fight commenced, which lasted three days. The last
+twenty-four hours the admiral fought with his single ship, his
+other vessels having deserted him; when, although his leg was
+shattered by a chain-shot, and he had received several other
+wounds, he would not be carried from the deck of his ship, but
+continued fighting until the French were obliged to sheer off.
+
+Benbow was so displeased with the conduct of the captains of his
+different ships, that he determined to steer for Jamaica, and
+upon his arrival to call a court-martial. The most culpable of
+them suffered death, the others were punished in different ways,
+and the admiral himself took their conduct so much to heart, that
+vexation, co-operating with the pain of his wounds, caused his
+death in November of the same year.
+
+About this period (1703), the first sailing packet for the
+conveyance of letters arrived at Antigua. Queen Anne had been
+graciously pleased to establish this packet service for the
+furtherance of trade, as well as to keep up a more regular
+intercourse with the colonies, as may be seen from the annexed
+notification:—
+
+                                 “London, 11th February, 1702-3.
+
+“Whereas her Majesty, for the encouragement of trade and
+commerce, hath thought fit to appoint boats to convey letters and
+packets between Barbados, Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, St.
+Christopher’s, and Jamaica in America,—this is to give notice
+that a mail will go from the general post-office, in London, on
+Thursday of this instant (February) for the above-mentioned
+islands, and henceforward on Thursday in every month; and her
+Majesty, pursuant to the statute made in the twelfth year of the
+reign K. Charles II., for establishing a post-office, hath
+directed and empowered the postmaster-general of England to take
+for the post of all such letters and packets that shall be
+conveyed by the said boats between London and any of the
+before-mentioned islands, the rates as follows:—
+                                                     s.  d.
+
+  For every letter not exceeding one sheet of paper, 0   9
+         do.           do.       two sheets   do.    1   6
+  For every packet weighing an ounce . .             2   8"
+
+This year (1703), his Excellency, Christopher Codrington, again
+entered the lists of battle. Sir George Rooke had despatched from
+England at the end of the former year Captain Hovenden Walker
+with six ships of the line and transports, having on board four
+regiments of soldiers for the Leeward Islands, which were to be
+landed at Antigua, and then distributed among the other colonies.
+Upon their arrival at Antigua, Colonel Codrington gave Captain
+Walker such information as determined him to alter his plans, and
+make an attack upon Guadaloupe; so, taking on board the governor
+and a “martial little band” under his command, they proceeded for
+that island. After having razed the fort, burnt the town, and
+ravaged the surrounding country, they re-embarked with
+precipitation, in consequence of a report that a body of 900
+French soldiers had arrived to the succour of the inhabitants.
+Colonel Codrington and his party returned to Antigua; and Captain
+Walker retired to Nevis with his squadron, where, it is said,
+they must have perished by famine had not Admiral Graydon
+fortunately put in there, on his way to Jamaica, and relieved
+them.
+
+Colonel Codrington was recalled from his government in the early
+part of 1704—for what reason I know not, unless it be his loyalty
+and attachment to his deceased sovereign, William III. He resided
+upon his “Betty’s Hope” estate, in Antigua, for some years
+afterwards, as a private gentleman, but at length removed to
+Barbados, where he died in 1710; and, in 1716, his remains were
+exhumed, and conveyed to England, and buried in the chapel of All
+Souls’, Oxford. Colonel Codrington added to his other
+accomplishments that of a poet—four of his poems being published
+in the _Musæ Anglicanæ_. He founded a college, by bequest, at
+Barbados, which still bears the name of “Codrington College;” and
+where, since the appointment of a bishop to this diocese, in
+1825, the clergymen who officiate in the West Indian churches,
+are, with the exception of two or three from the English
+universities, ordained.[35]
+
+In 1704, Queen Anne appointed Sir William Mathew, a native of St.
+Kitt’s, (who had distinguished himself at the siege of Namur,)
+captain-general, who arrived at Antigua 14th July, the same year.
+His Excellency did not live much more than five months after his
+appointment, dying 4th December; but during that short time, he
+endeared himself to all classes by a kind and courteous
+behaviour, and his strict integrity and honourable actions.[36]
+Upon the decease of Sir William Mathew, the Hon. John Johnson was
+made commander-in-chief for a short time.[37] During his
+administration, measures were taken to provide for the safety of
+the wives and children of those persons who at any time might be
+engaged in fighting for this island, and also for the infirm and
+superannuated, by building small houses within the fortifications
+of Monk’s Hill, where they could retire in times of actual
+warfare. This was a very necessary precaution, when the frequent
+landing of the French, attended by the Caribs, and the dreadful
+barbarities which they practised upon the unfortunate creatures
+who fell into their hands, is called to mind. And it was very
+naturally supposed that the men would fight better in the ranks,
+when they knew those who were near and dear to them were in
+comparative safety, than if obliged to leave them unprotected.
+These fortifications had been begun, at considerable expense, in
+the year 1687-8, and although a constant tax upon the country,
+had never been finished; but it was resolved this year to make no
+more delay, but carry on the works with vigour.
+
+This year (1705) a general council and assembly was held at
+Nevis, when an act was passed to regulate such meeting, and
+retain for each island its several laws. In future, the general
+assembly was to consist of five freeholders, elected from each
+respective island within the government. No member was to be sued
+or arrested for debt ten days before or after the sessions; and,
+while serving in general council and assembly, each member was to
+be paid 20s. per day, and their expenses allowed them for going
+from island to island.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[34] “A stool, in which scolds are tied, and _ducked_ under
+water.”—Dr. Johnson.
+
+[35] For a genealogy of the Codrington family, see Appendix, No.
+9.
+
+[36] Vide Mathew pedigree, Appendix, No. 10.
+
+[37] This Hon. John Johnson appears to have crept into the
+government with nothing more than a _verbal_ commission from some
+great courtier; and it is said that, in order to gain the
+Antiguans over to his cause, he allowed them to frame and pass
+what acts they pleased. He was an officer in Colonel Thomas
+Whetham’s regiment, (the Enniskillen, or 27th regiment of the
+line,) where he held the rank of brevet-colonel. About the year
+1706, after the government had devolved to the captain-general,
+Colonel Parke, Colonel Johnson had a fracas with a Mr. Poxton, a
+native of St Christopher’s, which ended fatally to the
+ex-governor, and for which Mr. Poxton was tried for murder, but
+acquitted by a jury of his countrymen.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+
+  Governor Colonel Daniel Parke—His birth-place and parentage—His
+  actions at the battle of Holchet and Blenheim—His arrival at
+  Antigua—Dissensions with the Antiguans—Complaints against him
+  sent to England—Results of the applications at the court of
+  Queen Anne—Tyrannical behaviour of Colonel Parke—Events of the
+  7th December, 1710—Death of Colonel Parke.
+
+The year 1706 is celebrated in the annals of Antigua as that in
+which that abominable and atrocious governor, Daniel Parke,
+arrived to blast for a time with his unhallowed breath this
+beautiful little island. Parke was an American of rather low
+birth, a tobacco-planter in the state of Virginia, but who
+succeeded in marrying a lady of good fortune, and of a
+respectable family in that province. As money was the only thing
+he cared for in this alliance, he contrived to secure that, and
+then left his wife a prey to sorrow and regret, for having
+sacrificed her peace for a handsome but unworthy man. After
+acting in this inhuman manner to a woman whose only fault was her
+love for him, Parke proceeded to one of the northern states,
+where he committed a crime at a gaming-table, which obliged him
+to fly to England to escape the punishment so justly due. Here he
+purchased an estate, situated near Whitchurch, county of Hants,
+of about 500l. a year, and got himself returned member for that
+borough. He was, however, expelled the House for bribery, and
+ordered to be prosecuted, but through the interference of the
+Earl of Pembroke, he eluded his trial. His next action was to
+form a _liaison_ with a lady, the wife of a captain in the
+Guards; and, to escape the vengeance of the incensed husband, he
+left England, and fled into Holland, where he entered into the
+army as a volunteer, under the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of
+Marlborough.
+
+The Duke of Marlborough appears to have been caught with Mr.
+Parke’s insinuating manners and agreeable person, and made him
+one of his aides-de-camp at the battle of Hochet; but having had
+a quarrel with an officer in the Queen’s Guards, Parke quitted
+the service a few days previous to the memorable battle of
+Blenheim. He still, however, remained within the precincts of the
+camp until the very day when that decisive action was fought; and
+when victory was about to be declared for the allied army, he
+presented himself before Marlborough, and requested that he might
+be the bearer of a line or two to acquaint the Queen of the
+glorious conquest likely to be achieved. The brave General reined
+up his panting war-horse, and with a heart bounding with
+exultation, and a face flushed with expected success, wrote, with
+a lead pencil, the following brief and soldier-like billet to his
+duchess:—
+
+                                                August 13, 1704.
+
+“I have not time to say more, than to beg of you to present my
+duty to the Queen, and let her majesty know that her army has had
+a glorious victory. Monsieur Tallard and two other generals are
+in my court, and I am following the rest. The bearer, my
+aide-de-camp, Colonel Parke, will give her majesty an account of
+what has passed; I shall do it in a day or two, by another, more
+at large.
+
+                                                  “Marlborough.”
+
+At the English court, Colonel Parke gained the patronage of
+Sarah, the haughty but fascinating Duchess of Marlborough;
+through whose interest he became such a favourite with Queen
+Anne, that she presented him with her picture, richly set in
+diamonds, a purse of one thousand guineas, and afterwards made
+him governor and captain-general of Antigua and the rest of the
+Leeward Islands; where he arrived 6th July, 1706, in the squadron
+commanded by Capt. Kerr, and where he gave full scope to his
+licentious disposition.
+
+Upon the first arrival of Colonel Parke, the assembly voted him
+1000l. a year for house-rent, and great satisfaction was
+expressed at his appointment. It was not long, however, before
+this fair prospect of colonial happiness changed; and the
+governor, by his arbitrary behaviour, forfeited all claims to the
+good feeling and respect of the inhabitants. One of the earliest
+offences Colonel Parke gave the Antiguans, was his making a low
+man he brought to the island with him a member of the assembly.
+Being a vulgar man, he delighted in vulgar associates; and
+becoming acquainted with a private named Ayon, belonging to a
+regiment of foot stationed in Antigua, he prevailed upon the
+governor to appoint him provost- marshal. To the remonstrance of
+the Antiguans against this proceeding, Parke replied, he should
+make whom he chose provost-marshal; and that he would never
+appoint any person to that office who did not agree to act
+exactly as he wished, as well as empannel such juries as he
+should direct.
+
+The next act of the governor gave equal displeasure. This was
+calling upon the Codrington family to shew their right to the
+Island of Barbuda,[38] (which had been granted to General
+Codrington by William III.;) and the Antiguans not only felt
+interested in the affairs of him who had been their friend and
+governor, but they supposed Parke would also be calling upon them
+to shew their claim to their estates—an indignity which they felt
+no inclination to put up with.
+
+Another crime of huge magnitude was the seduction of Mrs.
+Chester, the wife of Edward Chester, Esq., one of the most
+opulent of the Antiguan merchants, and a member of the house of
+assembly. Not content with injuring this gentleman in the deepest
+manner by thus robbing him of the affections of his wife, Colonel
+Parke, in his office of governor, proceeded to offer Mr. Chester
+every insult which a little mind was capable of. Upon one
+occasion, the governor had all his cocoa and other merchandise
+seized, on an unfounded suspicion of its being illegally gained;
+and then, supposing that all these several aggravations would
+cause him to be justly disliked, he (Colonel Parke) accused Mr.
+Chester of joining with other disaffected parties, in endeavours
+against his government; and, upon the plea of doing it for the
+establishment of the public peace, he broke into Mr. Chester’s
+house one evening, when that gentleman was entertaining a few of
+his friends, who were obnoxious to the governor—and, by the
+assistance of some of his armed sycophants, among whom was the
+provost-marshal, dragged Mr. Chester and his friends to prison.
+In order to give some face to his proceedings, Colonel Parke
+accused other gentlemen of joining in this pretended
+insurrection, and, accordingly, he sent some of his brutal
+partisans to an estate called “Denbows,” with orders to take into
+custody Mr. Ffrye and Mr. Cockran, (members of the assembly,) and
+bring them to town to stand their trial upon that charge. While
+the magistrates were taking depositions in this case, Sergeant
+Bowes, a creature of the governor, beat Captain Kallabane (one of
+the witnesses for the defendant) in the open court. For this
+offence the sergeant was broke by his colonel, and ordered to be
+whipped; but when this circumstance came to the ears of the
+governor, he immediately restored Bowes to his rank of sergeant,
+and protected him from all further punishment.
+
+Another source of dissatisfaction, upon the part of the assembly,
+arose from the circumstance of the governor taking the soldiers
+off duty to watch his private property. The following extract,
+taken from a message addressed to his excellency from the members
+of the house of assembly, relates to this subject:—“We always
+conceived her Majesty’s troops were sent to do duty on our
+_standing guards_, and not to be altogether employed in guarding
+your excellency’s person, your several buildings, your lumber,
+your heaps of bricks, mortar, and pantiles.”
+
+It must not be supposed that these were the only complaints
+alleged against Colonel Parke. His whole conduct, both in public
+and private life, was arbitrary in the extreme; and so
+supercilious was his treatment of the magnates of the island,
+that before he had held the government for twelve months,
+articles of impeachment were prepared to be forwarded to England.
+
+In 1707, a petition was drawn up and signed by eighty of the
+principal inhabitants, praying for his recall; a sum of money
+raised in order to defray the expenses of sending Mr. Nevin to
+England, to lay their grievances before her Majesty and council;
+and letters were written to Richard Cary, Esq., the colonial
+agent, calling upon that gentleman to assist them in their
+designs.
+
+While these measures were pursued by the disaffected party, the
+governor, who was not ignorant of these cabals against him, lost
+nothing of his arrogance of manner, which so incensed his
+adversaries, that at length an attempt was made upon his life. As
+he was riding along the high road, leading from St. John’s to
+English Harbour, a negro, named “Sandy,” fired at him from a
+piece of canes belonging to the plantation of the Honourable Otto
+Baijer,[39] and dangerously wounded him, of which deed Colonel
+Parke accused Mr. Jacob Morgan and some of the other members of
+the assembly, with being the instigators.
+
+About this time, Colonel Parke thought proper to accuse Barry
+Tankard, Esq., (a proprietor of sugar estates in Antigua, and an
+intimate friend of Colonel Codrington,) of caballing against his
+government; and accordingly he despatched his emissaries to the
+estate of that gentleman, with orders to seize his person, and
+bring him into town. Upon their arrival at Mr. Tankard’s house,
+they were informed of his absence from home; but doubting the
+truth of this information, they broke open the door of Mrs.
+Tankard’s chamber, (who was confined to her bed from severe
+indisposition,) and so alarmed that lady, that for some time her
+life was in danger. This arbitrary behaviour on the part of the
+governor led Barry Tankard to resent it, by calling his
+excellency out in a duel; but Colonel Parke, considering it
+beneath the dignity of the queen’s representative to accept the
+challenge of a private gentleman, the matter ended.
+
+While these dissensions were going on in Antigua between the
+governor on the one side, and the members of the assembly and the
+principal inhabitants on the other, Mr. Nevin and Mr. Cary were
+using their best endeavours to get a favourable answer to their
+complaints from the home government. At length, after many
+delays, Mr. Nevin returned to Antigua, bringing with him the
+queen’s letter, directing that witnesses should be examined to
+prove the several articles of impeachment sent home against the
+governor, as well as his excellency’s answers to the same. “The
+depositions and answers were sworn before Edward Byam, Esq., one
+of the council, and Nathaniel Crump, Esq., speaker of the house
+of assembly, and were ordered to be sealed with the broad seal of
+the island, and forwarded immediately to England.” The governor,
+however, refusing to seal the affidavits of the complainants,
+upon the plea that his own answers were not ready, from the
+delays of the justices before whom they were sworn, his opponents
+were obliged to use another seal, and then despatch them, under
+the care of Mr. Nevin, to England.
+
+During the year 1709, Queen Anne recalled Colonel Parke from his
+government, to the great joy of the Antiguans. To this command
+the infatuated man, however, would pay no attention; and,
+exasperated by the triumphant looks of his accusers, which they
+could not, or would not, conceal, he proceeded to measures which
+could be only deemed those of a maddened despot.
+
+The year 1710 was ushered in with no better feeling between the
+governor and the members of the legislature. One of their first
+causes of complaint alleged against his excellency arose from the
+following circumstance:—
+
+It had ever been the privilege of the house of assembly to choose
+their own “clerk;” but during this despotic administration, the
+governor overlooked this, and wished to appoint to that office a
+friend of his own—a Mr. Hinton.[40]
+
+This encroachment upon the assembly’s privileges gave rise to a
+great deal of ill feeling, and many acrimonious messages passed
+between his excellency and the members of that body. The
+following paragraph, copied from one of the governor’s speeches,
+alludes to this subject:—
+
+“If you still persist that it is your undoubted privilege to
+choose your ‘clerk,’ and will do no business until that be
+yielded to you, you certainly will have the ‘Lords’ Committee’
+opinion. It is an undutiful attempt upon her majesty’s
+prerogative; and I do assure you, gentlemen, if the queen does
+not appoint any other before I go, I will leave you time enough
+to raise money during this crop to pay off all the public
+debt!”[41]
+
+This unhandsome taunt of the governor’s was deeply felt, and
+resented by the “house,” who, in reply to it, remarks—
+
+“We cannot but observe how severe and bitter your excellency
+reflects upon, and reproaches our country with, the not paying
+its debt, but compounding the same. We well remember, when the
+country paid your excellency 1000l. in sugar, at 12s. 6d., your
+excellency sold that very sugar for 18s.; so that we hope your
+excellency has but little reason to complain of the public
+compounding their debt.”
+
+And then, in reference to a recommendation of the governor’s to
+enlarge the provision for the clergymen, they go on to mention—
+
+“Your excellency next recommends to provide a better maintenance
+for the clergy. They are already allowed 100l.; but as we are a
+people so much in debt, as your excellency observes, it cannot be
+expected, during these troublesome times, for us to advance their
+salaries, especially such scandalous persons as too many of the
+present clergy are.”
+
+This was only the third meeting of the legislature since the
+election, after a recess of three years; although, from the
+unsettled condition of the West Indies, (arising from the state
+of affairs in Europe, where Marlborough, at the head of the
+British forces, was engaged in frequent skirmishes with the
+French,) the Antiguans were in momentary expectation of an
+invasion. After being prorogued from the 18th of November to the
+27th, (1710,) the legislature again met, but without any better
+feeling between the governor and the members of the assembly. A
+fresh cause of dispute arose, from his excellency having caused a
+Mr. Hill to be sworn in as clerk of the assembly, (in place of
+his former favourite, Mr. Hinton,) but whom the members would not
+recognise; and after a great deal of altercation upon the
+subject, that body addressed the following to the governor:—
+
+“If your excellency’s resentment so far prevails as to despise
+these our propositions, and that the public affairs must with us
+still suffer, as unworthy your regard and consideration, we do
+then, as the only and last expedient, humbly propose your
+excellency’s visiting some other island of the government;
+thereby to afford us the opportunity and means, in conjunction
+with the lieutenant-governor and council, to provide for the
+public security, to heal our divisions, restore discipline, and
+our broken constitution, after the best manner we can. And we are
+unanimously of opinion, that in case your excellency rejects this
+our humble motion, and will not surcease such administration, as
+afore-mentioned, (which is so very opposite to the nature of our
+constitution, to the opinion of the lieutenant-governor, the
+council, as well as this house, and to the sense of the
+inhabitants in general,) we shall be under the unhappy necessity
+of withdrawing our obedience from you as chief governor, which,
+by your dispensing with her majesty’s positive command for
+leaving the government, we shall, in duty to her and justice to
+ourselves, (which we ought long since to have done;) and that
+this her colony, our persons and estates, may no longer be
+exposed to such unhappy conduct and administration, which seems
+entirely—we must say, foully—devoted to the ruin and destruction
+of all.”[42]
+
+After receiving this message, the unhappy, infatuated governor
+sent the following to the house:—
+
+“Gentlemen,—You are adjourned until Thursday, the 7th of
+December, then to give myself and council a meeting at the town
+of St. John’s, by eight of the clock in the morning.
+
+                       “By command,” &c.
+
+Alas, that very morning, the sun arose for the last time to him!
+and by a fearful and unhallowed death, he was sent with all his
+sins upon his head, to render in an account of his stewardship.
+
+The cause which led to this melancholy event was this:—Worn out
+with the proceedings of Colonel Parke, and looking upon him as an
+usurper of the government, the Antiguans threw off all restraint;
+and as the last remedy, determined to arm against, and force him
+to quit the island.
+
+Accordingly, upon the morning of the 7th December, 1710, a large
+body of men, in number about 500, proceeded to Government House,
+in two parties—the one headed by Mr. Piggot, then speaker of the
+house of assembly; the other, by Captain Painter, another member
+of that body. Colonel Parke, who was not ignorant of these
+proceedings against him, had quartered in Government House, some
+time before, the soldiers stationed in the capital; and who,
+along with many of his private friends, (among whom was Mr.
+French, his historian,) had made arrangements for resisting any
+attack upon the governor.
+
+Upon the approach of the armed party, Colonel Parke sent the
+provost-marshal (the man whose appointment to that office had
+given the Antiguans such offence) with a proclamation, ordering
+them to disperse immediately. This they refused to do; but in
+order, if possible, to save an effusion of blood, they despatched
+Nathaniel Crump, Esq., (the former speaker of the assembly,) and
+George Gamble, one of the council, to the governor, desiring him,
+in the name of the inhabitants, to discharge his guards, and quit
+the government, without any further contest. Colonel Parke
+returned for answer, “that neither threats nor fear of death
+should make him do so; for the queen had intrusted him with it.”
+Through the delegates, Mr. Crump and Mr. Gamble, he bid the
+assembly “sit at Parham, if they were afraid of the troops at St.
+John’s,” but consented at the same time to dismiss the soldiers,
+if six of the principal inhabitants would remain with him as
+hostages. As the negotiators considered the proposal of the
+governor’s to be far preferable to commencing hostilities, they
+agreed to be two of the hostages, and endeavour by their
+influence to obtain four more from among the assembled multitude.
+Many of their party, upon hearing this proposition of the
+governor’s, agreed with them in their opinions, and laid down
+their arms; but the majority of the people, fearful of any
+agreement made with the governor, and thinking that delays might
+induce others of the group to withdraw also, determined to
+commence the attack, and endeavour to secure the person of the
+governor. The two companies, headed by Captain Piggot and Captain
+Painter, immediately drew up before Government House, which they
+saluted with a warm discharge of musketry. This was returned by
+the governor’s party; volley succeeded volley from within and
+without; the balls whistled hotly around; until at length the
+assailants burst open the doors, and rushed into the dwelling.
+Captain Piggot fell by the hand of Colonel Parke, at the
+commencement of the affray, although it was the belief of many
+that Ayon, the provost-marshal and _ci-devant_ foot-soldier, came
+behind him and shot him in the back. After some deaths on both
+sides, Colonel Parke, who had retired into his bedroom, received
+a shot in his thigh, which, breaking the bone, disabled him from
+further retreating, and the people rushing upon him, literally
+tore him to pieces while alive. They afterwards burnt down
+Government House, the ruins of which remain to this day a memento
+of his dreadful crimes and fearful punishment. Colonel Parke was
+dragged into the streets by some of his adversaries, where he
+remained for some time, still sensible, but suffering agonies
+impossible to describe, until at length his mutilated body was
+carried to the house of a person named Wright, who lived near to
+the spot, where he shortly expired. His body was deposited in the
+vault of the old church; but so detested was his memory, that the
+people broke down the pew which had been appropriated for him and
+his predecessors.
+
+Some writers maintain that only the _common people_ were
+concerned in the last act of this tragedy; that those of the
+higher rank proceeded to the house of John Yeamans, the
+lieutenant-governor, and quietly laid down their arms. Mr.
+French, the historian of Colonel Parke, writes, however, very
+differently upon this part of the subject; but it ought to be
+taken into consideration, that he was a particular friend of
+Colonel Parke, and consequently might give a higher colouring to
+the melancholy picture. He says, that when Colonel Parke lay in
+the street suffering the pangs of a dismembered body, the members
+of the house of assembly stood round reviling and insulting him
+in his last agonies; that among the number were Andrew Murray,
+Francis Carlisle, Mr. Tomlinson, and Captain Painter. I cannot
+believe this assertion. Although Parke was their common foe,
+still they must have been possessed of those feelings of honour,
+if not humanity, which would forbid them to triumph over a dying
+enemy. Mr. French goes on to state, that it was Colonel Byam who
+was most active in convening the inhabitants, and appointing a
+certain day for them to come into town well armed. This, too, has
+been contradicted. There were not many clergymen then upon the
+island; but among their number, Mr. James Field, rector of St.
+John’s, took the part of the people; and Mr. Baxter, rector of
+Parham, that of Colonel Parke.
+
+All writers upon the West Indies mention the crimes and fate of
+Parke; and consequently I am obliged to follow in the wake, or
+else I should have buried his errors—or, more properly speaking,
+his vices—in oblivion.[43]
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[38] Barbuda is a small island, about twenty miles broad, and
+lies twenty-six miles to the north of Antigua. It has belonged to
+the Codrington family from about the year 1691, when William III.
+granted it to General Codrington, then governor-general of the
+Leeward Islands. It raises a great number of horned cattle,
+ponies, donkeys, &c., and its shores are very prolific in turtle
+and various kinds of fish; while its beach is strewed with many
+beautiful shells. Deer, also, range amid its sylvan glades; and
+their flesh occasionally affords another dish at a West Indian
+dinner. The chief emoluments arising from this island, however,
+are the number of wrecks; three or four sometimes occurring in a
+year. The reason of these frequent maritime disasters is, that
+the island lies so low, and is generally encompassed with fogs,
+that vessels are upon the reefs (by which it is almost entirely
+surrounded) before they are aware. It was upon one of this chain
+of reefs, that H. M. S. Woolwich was wrecked.
+
+Barbuda contains about 1500 inhabitants, of which the greater
+part are employed as huntsmen and fishermen: the former make use
+of the lazo to catch the wild horses, &c.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[39] This spot is now appropriated for the Wesleyan
+burial-ground.
+
+[40] The following is an authentic copy of Mr. Hinton’s
+commission and warrant, as drawn out in Colonel Parke’s own
+handwriting:—
+
+  “By his Excellency Daniel Parke, Esq., Captain-General and
+    Governor-in-Chief in and over all her Majesty’s Leeward
+    Caribbee Islands in Antigua.
+
+“I do hereby authorize and appoint you, Gabriel Hinton, of the
+said island aforesaid, to be clerk to the assembly of this
+island, and which is this day appointed to meet; and to receive
+all fees, proffitts, and perquisites thereto belonging, for which
+this shall be your sufficient warrant and commission.
+
+“Given under my hand and seal this twenty-second day of May,
+1710.
+
+                                        (Signed) “Daniel Parke.”
+
+[41] At this period, the island had fallen considerably in debt;
+and the legislature not having met for some time, from the
+unhappy differences between them and the governor, they had no
+opportunity of relieving themselves from their burdens; which
+difficulties were pleasing to Colonel Parke, in the hopes of
+their being compelled to make a general compromise.
+
+[42] It may be well to remark, that any peculiarities in the
+diction of the foregoing extracts must be attributed to the time
+in which they were written: they having been copied _verbatim_.
+
+For a list of the members of the house of assembly at this time,
+see Appendix, No. 11.
+
+[43] The last will of Governor Parke will be found in Appendix,
+No. 12.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+
+  Governor Walter Hamilton—Walter Douglas’s Disturbances—
+  Complaints against him sent to England—Queen Anne recalls him,
+  and reappoints Walter Hamilton—Lord Viscount Lowther—John Hart—
+  Lord Londonderry—Lord Forbes—Colonel William Crosbie.
+
+After the death of Colonel Parke, the government, of course,
+devolved upon the lieutenant-governor of Antigua, John Yeamans,
+until such time as despatches could be forwarded to Nevis, where
+General Hamilton, who was next in command to the late
+captain-general, (and who had married the widow of Sir William
+Stapleton, a former governor,) was residing. Four of the members
+of the legislature were, accordingly, sent to General Walter
+Hamilton, advising him of the death of Colonel Parke, and
+inviting him to come to Antigua in order to assume the chief
+command. General Hamilton received the party with great urbanity
+and kindness, and accompanied them back to Antigua, where he took
+up his residence, for the time being, with Dr. Mackinnon, one of
+the actors in the late affray.[44]
+
+Upon the intelligence of Colonel Parke’s death reaching England,
+Queen Anne was very much incensed against the inhabitants of
+Antigua; but, after hearing the catalogue of Parke’s crimes, and
+in order to prevent any further effusion of blood, her majesty
+was graciously pleased to send a general pardon to all that were
+concerned in that transaction.
+
+But although the queen thought proper to extend her clemency to
+the Antiguans, she made some alteration in the affairs of the
+Leeward Island government. General Walter Hamilton was recalled,
+and General Walter Douglas appointed in his room; and John
+Yeamans was removed from the situation of lieutenant-governor of
+Antigua, and that appointment conferred upon Colonel Edward Byam.
+
+During the period General Douglas administered the government, he
+received instructions from England to see an act put into
+execution, which had been passed in the time of Christopher
+Codrington the younger, respecting the ascertainment of the value
+of current coin.
+
+The 24th of June, 1712, Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker again visited
+Antigua with a fleet of seven ships under his command. Soon after
+his departure, M. Copard, the French admiral, with a fleet of
+eight ships and seventeen sloops of war, manned with about 5000
+men, made an attack upon the island; but we find, from despatches
+sent to England by the governor, General Douglas, their attempts
+at landing were frustrated.
+
+General Douglas had scarcely been two years governor before
+complaints against him were also despatched to England, as well
+as a petition from the inhabitants, praying the queen to recall
+him, in which petition their late governor-general, Walter
+Hamilton, joined. General Douglas had made himself so obnoxious,
+that another rebellion had almost occurred. One of his measures
+was to retain certain duties, which ought to have been paid into
+the treasury, (such as duties upon wines and liquors, &c.), for
+his own particular use. He also persecuted General Hamilton, and
+suspended him from all offices he held in the island; and upon
+that gentleman repairing to England to transact some private
+business, Colonel Douglas endeavoured to seize Dr. Mackinnon and
+Chief-Justice Watkins for their proceedings in the affair of
+Colonel Parke, as well as on the plea of another intended
+rebellion. These gentlemen, however, contrived to escape to
+England, where, from advices received from Governor Douglas, they
+were afterwards seized and committed to prison; but, pleading the
+general pardon which her majesty had issued, they were discharged
+without trial, although Ensign Smith, one of the asserted
+culprits, lay in Newgate for some months.
+
+While these rancorous dissensions were going on between the
+governor and the inhabitants, orders were received for him to
+return to England; and, to the joy of the Antiguans, his majesty
+George I. re-appointed General Walter Hamilton to the government
+in 1715. The island was now pretty quiet; the French keeping to
+their own colonies without troubling their neighbours. The
+Antiguans, however, were still very cautious of them; and the few
+persons of that nation who, after the termination of the war,
+came to reside at Antigua, were very coldly received. This year
+(1715) the court of chancery was amended. Hitherto it was held by
+one person, which caused delays, besides other inconveniences: so
+that it was resolved in future it should consist of the governor,
+and not less than five members of the council.
+
+Previous to this period, there was also much difficulty in
+recovering minor debts, owing to the want of good laws, which
+occasioned so much inconvenience to the merchants of Antigua that
+they found it necessary this year (1715) to draw up a petition,
+signed by twenty-six of the most influential members of their
+body, praying for a better settling of the island courts. In
+1711, the attorney-general, Thomas Bretton, Esq., had drawn up an
+act “for establishing a court of queen’s bench and common pleas,
+and for the better regulating and settling due methods for the
+administration of justice,” with which the council and assembly
+were so well pleased, that they presented him with one hundred
+and forty pounds currency; but which act was so marred in the
+passing of it, that they themselves found it necessary to incur
+further expense by having another drawn up. As, however, this did
+not appear to have the desired effect, in 1715, (after receiving
+the petition from the merchants,) further and more effective
+measures were taken for settling law courts, and limiting a time
+for issuing executions out of the court of chancery.
+
+In 1716, fresh regulations were made respecting the importation
+of white servants. Every owner of slaves, to the number of
+fifteen, was obliged to find a white man to serve in the militia;
+and for every twenty slaves, above fifteen, they were obliged to
+find another white servant. Importers of white Protestant
+servants could demand of the treasurer of the island eighteen
+pounds per head if not sold in twenty days, and further obliged
+the treasurer to receive such servant until sold. The general
+term of servitude was seven years, at the end of which period
+their master was to give them fifty shillings, and 400 pounds of
+sugar or tobacco, with a certificate of their being free. If one
+of these white servants married a free person without the consent
+of their master, that free person was to be fined 100l.; and if
+one servant entertained another for more than twenty-four hours
+at one time, the person so offending was to be publicly whipped,
+or serve the injured party three months; or if the entertainer
+was free, he was to forfeit 20l.
+
+About this time, Governor Hamilton sent a party of settlers,
+under command of a Mr. Howell, from Antigua and the different
+Leeward Islands, to plant a colony upon Crab Island, a small
+island lying between Santa Cruz and Porto Rico.
+
+In the year 1699, the Scottish or Darien Company fitted out two
+large ships with a cargo of articles for traffic, and arms and
+ammunition, intending to form a settlement in America. While on
+their passage, they resolved to call in at Crab Island, and leave
+some of their party there; but upon their arrival, finding a
+large tent erected on the beach, with Danish colours flying, and
+not wishing to have any dispute, they left the island to the
+Danes, and proceeded to the Isthmus of Darien. The Danes having
+given up the colony, the English thought it a good time to put in
+a claim, and accordingly, as before remarked, Governor Hamilton
+sent a party to colonize it.
+
+Improvements were made about this time in the erection of mills
+for the purpose of grinding the sugar cane, and also in the art
+of sugar-boiling, which the Antiguans at that day appear to have
+been deficient in. Oldmixon, speaking of the sugar made in
+Antigua, says,—“It is so black and coarse, that no art could fine
+it; and, as if our sugar bakers in England scorned to put dirt in
+their coppers, it was generally shipped off to Holland and
+Hamburg, where it was sold for 16s., when any other brought from
+18s. to 19s. per hundred.”
+
+In 1620, Lord Viscount Lowther was appointed to the government of
+the Leeward West India Islands, but his appointment was
+afterwards cancelled; and, in 1721, George I. appointed John
+Hart, Esq., former governor of Maryland, to be commander-in-chief
+of the Leeward Islands, who arrived at Antigua about the middle
+of the year. About this time gambling raged to a great extent in
+Antigua, and it was thought necessary to adopt some measures to
+suppress it. It was therefore ordained, in 1723, that, if any
+person won more than seven pounds at one sitting, or within
+twenty-four hours from the time they first commenced playing,
+they were to forfeit treble the value, half of which was to be
+paid into treasury for the purpose of building and repairing
+forts, &c., and the other half to go to the loser. It is strange
+that, much about the same time, this vice was very prevalent in
+England. Indeed, profligacy of all kinds had increased in that
+kingdom to an alarming extent. This was supposed to have arisen
+from the infatuation of the South Sea scheme, which, intoxicating
+the minds of the people with the prospect of imaginary wealth,
+led them into every excess. If any of the Antiguans had joined in
+this infatuation, I am unable to say. I was led into the mention
+of it from the fact of both countries being, at the same period,
+subject to the same kind of vice.
+
+For the last few years the inhabitants of Antigua had been very
+much harassed by a gang of runaway slaves, from various estates,
+who had taken up their abode in some of the mountains and rocky
+parts of the island, and who were in the practice of issuing out
+at night, and committing many and great depredations. The leaders
+of this gang of vagrants were three men, of the name of Africa,
+Papa Will, and Sharper; and, to insure their capture, a reward of
+twenty pounds was offered to any person who should place either
+of them, dead or alive, in the hands of the provost-marshal. If
+any one killed a slave who had been absent from their owner three
+months, while in pursuit of them, he was entitled to the sum of
+three pounds; and when such slave was taken alive, the reward was
+doubled, the owner of any slave so killed being paid his or her
+value from the treasury. If a slave concealed, afforded
+nourishment to, or comforted a runaway, he was to be publicly
+whipped on the bare back with any number of stripes the justice
+of the peace thought proper to order; and if any free person so
+offended, such freeman was to be fined not less than ten pounds
+for the first offence. No person was allowed to purchase goods of
+a slave, under a penalty of thirty pounds for the first offence,
+except such things as pigs, goats, fowls, fish, or ground
+provision, which slaves were allowed to sell; but ginger and
+cotton ranked among the prohibitory articles. For the better
+government of this sable race, it was thought proper by those in
+power to restrict their diversions, and publish a decree, that
+all owners of slaves should allow them three days at Christmas
+for play-days, _and no more_, under a penalty of twenty pounds.
+Many other regulations were made, which appear at this day very
+harsh—such as not allowing slaves to plant cotton, forbidding
+them to assemble in parties of more than ten, punished for
+carrying any kind of weapon, unless in company of a white person,
+&c.; but, at the same time, it was enacted that if any cruelly
+disposed person hurt, or killed a slave, they were liable to the
+same punishment as if the victim had been free; thus setting a
+bright example to the other island, where killing a slave was
+looked upon, in law, as a mere trifle.
+
+In 1725, the parish of St. Peter’s was divided into two, making
+Antigua to consist of six parishes, instead of five; the
+separated half of St. Peter’s being called St. George. The reason
+of this division was the great extent of the parish, which,
+having only one church and one chapel of ease in it, and those at
+a considerable distance, the parishioners had not an opportunity
+of attending divine worship every week. Nothing of much
+importance occurred during the next two years, except that the
+assembly of Antigua returned thanks to Captain Arthur Delgarno,
+commander of H.M.S. South Sea Castle, for his indefatigable
+exertions in these seas, in keeping away the enemy’s ships, and
+protecting the trade of the island: they also voted two hundred
+guineas to purchase a sword to present to the gallant commander,
+as a token of respect. It was by the suggestions of this Captain
+Delgarno, and Captain Cooper, of H.M.S. Lyon, in 1725, that the
+spacious dockyard at English Harbour was first erected.
+
+George I. dying in the month of June, 1727, his son succeeded to
+the vacant throne, under the title of George II. Upon the
+intelligence reaching the ears of the Antiguans, he was
+proclaimed at Antigua with great pomp. An ox was roasted whole,
+and three hogsheads of beer distributed to the poor inhabitants;
+while a splendid entertainment was provided for the governor and
+the gentry of the island, at the public expense.
+
+His majesty George II. having appointed Lord Londonderry[45] to
+succeed John Hart, Esq., in the government of the Leeward
+Islands, that nobleman arrived at Antigua in 1728; but was
+detained off the port, or rather on board his vessel, which was
+anchored in the roadstead for some time, on account of a
+hurricane. About this period, the commander of H. M. S.
+Winchelsea took a pirate vessel, while at anchor near one of the
+small islands with which these seas abound; but the crew escaped,
+with the exception of five persons, who were brought to Antigua,
+and hung. These were Captain Fen, the owner and commander, his
+gunner, and three common sailors.
+
+The first year of Lord Londonderry’s administration, it was
+privately recommended to him, by the English government, to lay
+before the legislature of Antigua the necessity of building
+barracks for the accommodation of the regiment of foot stationed
+in the island, or else assign them quarters, by billeting them
+upon the several estates, or in the towns. Hitherto, they were
+scattered all over the country, obtaining shelter wherever they
+could, and consequently, they became very disorganized. It was,
+however, not until the year 1741, that these recommendations were
+carried into effect, when barracks were erected upon Rat Island;
+and, in 1753, additional barracks were built at the head of the
+town. The Antiguans were this year alarmed by a conspiracy among
+the negroes, which, however, appears to have been confined to
+those belonging to a Mr. Crump. As upon trial they were not
+thought worthy of death, it was resolved to banish eight of the
+principal offenders, who were to be sent to Maryland or Virginia,
+or else sold to such persons who would agree to transport them to
+the Spanish coasts, with the proviso that if they returned to
+Antigua, they were immediately to be executed.
+
+A thousand pounds were granted to his excellency Thomas Pitt,
+Earl of Londonderry, this year, in addition to the usual salary;
+and the emoluments arising from a duty of 3s. 6d. per ton, upon
+all vessels clearing from the island, having on board native
+produce, was also settled upon him as long as he continued in the
+government. As, however, the next year, (1729,) transient factors
+were allowed exemptions from the charge of 3s. 6d. per ton, (on
+the ground of their paying 2l. for every 100l. imported,) which
+would tend to decrease the governor’s salary, a further sum of a
+thousand pounds was granted to supply all deficiencies. As there
+had been no government house erected since the affair of Colonel
+Parke, the Antiguans renting a house for that purpose, which was
+attended with some disadvantage, Lord Londonderry recommended to
+the council and assembly the necessity of building a government
+house, pointing out at the same time that the want of such an
+accommodation for their governors might thereafter prove
+disadvantageous to the Antiguans. This advice, however, appears
+not to have been followed, for it was not until after 1800, that
+the present government house was erected. The laws of Antigua
+were also this year recommended to be sent to the agent in
+England, to have them printed.
+
+Many other regulations were gone into, tending to the welfare of
+Antigua; and it was also resolved that if any members of the
+council and assembly were absent, and could not give a
+satisfactory cause, such absentees were to forfeit 5l., and were
+sometimes even expelled. During the government of this nobleman,
+a bill passed the two houses of parliament, which had been long
+pending, granting encouragement to the sugar colonies, of which
+Antigua had become one of the most flourishing. Lord Londonderry
+did not live more than a year and a half after his appointment;
+and, upon his demise, the Right Honourable Lord Forbes was
+nominated to the vacant government. The country voted a sum of
+money for his reception, and a house was engaged for him; but,
+after waiting for about six months, and no governor making his
+appearance, it was given up, and the government devolved to
+William Mathew the lieut.-governor. The same year, however,
+Brigadier-general William Crosbie was appointed captain-general;
+but it appears he did not accept the office, or the appointment
+was cancelled by the home government; for in the following year
+he removed to New York, where he became governor.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[44] See further as to the Mackinnons, Appendix, No. 13.
+
+[45] Son to Mr. Pitt; famous for the diamond he brought from the
+East Indies, and which he afterwards sold to the King of France.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+
+  Governor William Mathew—Insurrection of the Negroes—A Legend of
+  the Ravine—Punishment of the Conspirators.
+
+In 1730, William Mathew, Esq., the lieutenant-governor, succeeded
+to this government, vacant by the non-acceptance of Lord Forbes
+and General William Crosbie; and, in the first year of his
+appointment, fresh regulations were made for the payment of such
+slaves as suffered death for crimes, according to the ancient
+custom of the island. The affairs of Fort James were also looked
+into. In 1680, Colonel James Vaughan, of Antigua, had granted to
+his majesty Charles II. and his successors, a certain promontory,
+generally known as St. John’s Point, for the purpose of building
+a fort, and for the support of the matrosses. This had been done
+as far as the erection of Fort James; but the other part of the
+land was not used; and consequently, this year, (1730,) it was
+determined that it should be given to the matrosses; only
+reserving a part which might be wanted for the purpose of
+building hospitals or magazines. In 1731, Antigua suffered very
+much from a long drought; when the want of water was so
+excessive, that a pail of that fluid sold for 3s. The following
+year (1732) amendments were made in the court of chancery. By the
+regulations of 1715, this court was made to consist of the
+captain-general or governor-in-chief, and five or more members of
+council; but as his excellency was not always upon the island
+when such courts were held, great delays were occasioned, and it
+was determined that in future the president of Antigua should, in
+the absence of the governor, or lieutenant-governor, preside.
+
+After a temporary absence, the Lieutenant-governor William Mathew
+returned to Antigua in the early part of the year 1733, assuming
+the government as captain-general of the Leeward Islands, and
+presented his additional instructions to the council and
+assembly, directing that body to be no longer restricted, as
+formerly, from making any additional allowance to the salary of
+1200l. per annum, allowed by the home government, namely:—
+“Whereas, it has been represented to us, that the salary of
+1200l. sterling per annum, which we have hitherto thought fit to
+allow out of the duty of four-and-a-half per cent., arising in
+our Leeward Islands, for our governor-in-chief of these islands,
+is not at present sufficient for his support and the dignity of
+that our government, we have taken the same into our
+consideration, and are graciously pleased to permit and allow
+that the respective assemblies of our said islands may, by any
+act or acts, settle upon you such sum or sums, in addition to
+your salary of 1200l. per annum, as they shall think proper; and
+you are hereby allowed to give your assent to any act or acts of
+assembly to that purpose. Provided, such sum or sums be settled
+on you and your successors in that government; at least on you
+during the whole time of your government there, and that the same
+be done by the first respective assemblies of our said island
+after your arrival there.”
+
+In accordance with this new arrangement, the council and assembly
+readily granted an annual sum of 1000l. Antigua currency.
+
+In 1734, copper coins were imported from England, and passed at
+about the same rate they do at this day. Bayonets were also
+introduced this year into Antigua, for the use of the militia,
+they having been found to answer so well in the late wars in
+Flanders. These weapons obtained their name from being first
+manufactured at Bayonne, in France.
+
+The events of the year 1736 were such as to strike horror into
+the hearts of all the white inhabitants of Antigua. The negroes,
+who, as we have before seen, attempted an insurrection in 1728,
+attributed their want of success to the fact of their having no
+regular plan; and accordingly they chose one of their tribe, a
+very powerful black man, to be their king; and vowed to render to
+him the strictest homage, and follow his every order. This man,
+whose real name was “Klaas,” although his master called him
+Count, was a person of undaunted courage and strong resolve; and,
+was it not on account of the demise of Governor Mathew’s son,
+which frustrated their original plan of blowing up government
+house (or at least the house which was hired for the governor at
+Clark’s Hill) with gunpowder, the night a grand ball was to be
+given in honour of the anniversary of the king’s coronation, no
+doubt Antigua would have been another “Hayti,” and “Klaas”
+another “Christophe.”
+
+There is still an old tradition, which relates to this melancholy
+subject; and as it may not prove uninteresting to some of my
+readers, I will give it in a newer dress.
+
+                       The Fate of Klaas.
+
+                    A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE.
+
+At a late period in the evening of the 3rd of October, 1736, two
+horsemen might be seen riding slowly along the high road which
+leads from the capital to English Harbour. The eldest of these
+travellers was probably past the meridian of life; but his round
+florid face bore not a mark of care, nor could a single wrinkle
+be detected upon his open forehead. Age, indeed, had tinged his
+hair with grey, and, perhaps, slightly bent his form; but had
+neither depressed his spirits nor robbed his laughing blue eye of
+its lustre. In person he was tall and robust; and although
+jollity was written upon every feature, he possessed at the same
+time that air of determination which would make few wish to
+thwart him in his views, or offer an insult that was sure to be
+resented. The animal he bestrode was of a coal-black, and, like
+his master, bore his years well. Logo, as he was called, had
+often followed the hounds in “merrie England;” and, when his
+master came to take possession of a property in Antigua, his
+faithful steed, the sharer of many a long day’s sport, was not to
+be left behind.
+
+The companion of this first-mentioned traveller was, in every
+respect, far different. Scarcely had seventeen summers passed
+over his head; and his slight, but well-formed person, was in
+direct contrast to the large and heavy make of his friend. His
+rich brown locks clustered around his lofty brow unspoiled by
+powder; but in his large dark eye, consumption had lit its fire,
+and flushed, at times, his naturally pale cheek.
+
+“Come, Edward,” said the elder traveller, addressing the youth;
+“we must mend our pace, lad: here’s Logo champing his bit with
+every mark of anger at being kept with tightened reign: the old
+fellow has too much mettle still left to like this hippopotamus
+trot, when he has an hungry stomach, and the prospect of a
+well-stored stable before him.”
+
+“Ay, uncle; and one there is at home, who must be as anxiously
+looking for us, as Logo is for his stable.”
+
+“What, Marien? Well, I dare say the girl feels the loss of her
+cousin Edward from the side of her spinet, if she don’t her old
+father from his settle in the gallery. Women love those little
+attentions you know so well to offer; and Marien would miss you
+from tuning her lute, or turning the pages of her music book, as
+I should old Logo, were anything to happen to him. Dame Nature
+has made you, boy, to shine in lady’s bower, more, I think, than
+in tented field.”
+
+The deepest hectic sprang to the face of the youth, as his uncle
+uttered these words, and a half-smothered sigh broke from his
+lips, which, catching the attention of his companion, caused him
+to turn and look ardently at him.
+
+“Nay, dearest Edward, I meant not to distress you; I hope your
+trip to these sunny shores may restore you to stronger health;
+and then you may follow the steps of your brave father, and fight
+your country’s battles. But we must not loiter any longer upon
+the road; for, in truth, I like not the appearance of the night,
+and we have no shelter near. I care not for myself, for I have
+weathered too many a storm to shrink from a sprinkling; but you
+are still delicate; and your cousin Marien will scold me for
+having already kept you out in the heavy night dew of this
+climate.”
+
+So saying, they gave their steeds the rein, and dashed on,
+throwing the loose pebbles with which the road was strewed, on
+every side.
+
+The night, indeed, was far from promising; the wind blew in
+sudden gusts, and whirled the dead leaves on every side. A low
+moaning sound came from the distant mountains, the sure
+forerunner of a storm; while peals of thunder broke upon the ear.
+The black clouds drifted rapidly along the sky, and several
+meteors gilded the night with their evanescent glories. Suddenly
+a deep silence prevailed, broken only by the sound of the horses’
+feet upon the flinty road, as the benighted travellers struck
+their rowels into the sides of the animals, to urge them to
+greater speed. But this boding silence did not last long; the
+wind again rose with redoubled violence—the thunder rolled in
+awful peals—and a sheet of vivid lightning covered the whole face
+of the heavens; clap followed clap in rapid succession, shaking
+the very earth to its centre; the rain came down in torrents, yet
+still the red-winged lightning struggled through it, and kept up
+its terrific fire.
+
+A moment’s pause in the storm gave the elder traveller time to
+exclaim—“Well, Edward, my prognostications have proved true, have
+they not? Poor Marien must indeed feel anxious;” when, just at
+this instant, a dark object issued out of a kind of ravine which
+appeared on one side of the road, and darted across the path
+close to the horses’ heads. “What was that?” continued the
+speaker. “Was it man or animal? My glance was so momentary, that
+indeed I know not.” “A boy,” returned his companion, “an’ my eyes
+deceived me, or it was Marien’s dumb page.” “What! Julio?
+Impossible! What could the boy do abroad in such a night? unless”
+—and the speaker paused; “unless, indeed, Marien sent him forth
+to gain some tidings of us; for although the poor little fellow
+was born deaf and dumb, he has the brightest intellect and
+swiftest foot of any negro I ever knew. I have often promised to
+tell you his story; and as the tempest seems to have worn away a
+little, I may as well give it now, which will tend to make the
+road seem the shorter.
+
+“Julio’s mother was the foster-parent of my own Marien, although
+at that period she did not belong to me. But she was a great
+favourite of my wife’s, and for that reason we hired her to nurse
+our child; and after my wife’s death, I purchased her from her
+old master, who was a friend of mine. Nuno was a very superior
+negress; and was it not on account of her husband, ‘Count,’ whom
+I pointed out to you the other day as the reputed king of the
+negroes, I do really think she might have been living now. She
+never would say _what_ he did to her, or indeed make any
+complaint against him; but I am certain there was something
+mysterious about it; for when afterwards she was confined with
+Julio, she made it her dying request to me that Count might never
+know the child was his, or the boy be told who his father was.
+This ‘Count,’ as he is called, although I believe he bears
+another name, made a great deal of talk in the country some few
+years ago. It appears, his master had him severely flogged for a
+trifling offence, and Count ran away; but he afterwards came
+back, and all was forgiven, although his master might have had
+him hung for it, without any loss to himself. There is a law of
+the island, which punishes with death any negro who runs away for
+longer than three months, and the country pays their value to
+their owners. I heard a flying report of an intended insurrection
+of the negroes while we were in town to-day; but for my part, I
+give no credit to it. They have not forgotten the rebellion of
+Crump’s negroes yet, and the punishment awarded to the offenders,
+which will keep them quiet, at least for a little time. I have
+heard, that Count was concerned in that affair; but none of the
+culprits mentioned his name; and although, from the character of
+the man, I should not think it unlikely, for the sake of poor
+Juno, I would not accuse him. But to return to Julio. His mother
+died immediately after his birth, and no one but ourselves, and
+his mother’s brother, a slave named Cuffee, know who is his
+father. Upon finding the poor child was deaf and dumb, our hearts
+have been drawn the closer to him; and as soon as my affairs are
+arranged in this island, I shall return to England, and intend
+carrying Julio with me.”
+
+By this time, the travellers had gained an ascent, and before
+them was spread a cluster of negro-huts, various out-buildings,
+and works of a flourishing estate; while on the top of another
+eminence stood the hospitable mansion of the owner. In a moment,
+all was bustle. “Massa come home!” was shouted from one to
+another, as a party of black boys and men started from their
+slumbers upon the dry trash, and ran to take the horses. After
+seeing Logo properly attended to, the travellers walked to the
+house, where, at an open jalousie, a slight figure, whose
+graceful outline bespoke it Marien’s, was seen watching their
+progress. The family party having once more met, and a thousand
+inquiries as to their ride &c. having been made, Marien touched a
+silver bell, and a domestic entering, orders were given to send
+in Julio. “By-the-bye,” exclaimed the elder gentleman, “didst
+thou send forth Julio in search of your _absentees_ to-night,
+Marien?”—“No, dearest father; Julio has not left the anteroom
+since dinner, that I am aware of. Anxious as I was to gain
+tidings of you, the night was too inclement to send the poor
+child abroad. But why do you ask that question?”—“Oh! nothing;
+only that our bright-eyed Edward thought he saw him cross the
+road at the ravine down yonder; but I think it must have been a
+dog, or something of the kind. However, to be certain, I
+mentioned it to you.” At this moment the door opened, and Julio
+entered. He had, perhaps, attained his eighth year; but from his
+diminutive form, a stranger would have thought him even younger.
+His dress was a kind of white tunic embroidered with crimson, and
+a broad belt of gilded leather, with tassels of bullion, gathered
+it in folds around his slender waist. Smart silk stockings
+encased his legs, and white leather shoes, ornamented with gold,
+graced his little feet. When abroad, a small crimson cap, in
+which was placed a single ostrich feather, reposed upon his head:
+its snowy plume strangely contrasting with his ebon complexion.
+It was Marien’s whim to dress her page in this fantastic manner,
+and her indulgent parent never thwarted her in any of her little
+pleasures.
+
+The deficiencies of poor Julio’s external faculties did not
+extend to his intellects. The slightest action of Marien’s was
+noticed by him, and her every wish gratified, if possible. Did a
+shade pass over her brow, he flew for her lute, or arranged her
+books at the spinet; did a smile illuminate her face, Julio
+jumped for joy. It was his task to gather for her the sweetest
+fruits, and range the tangled copse and dell to cull the fairest
+flowers; and when she walked abroad, he attended the steps of his
+young mistress, and swept from her path every noisome insect.
+Bright were the eyes of Julio, and joyous was the look expressed
+in his dark round face; but on this evening, when, at the summons
+of his mistress, he stood before her, every one was struck with
+the alteration in his appearance. His cheek was blanched to an
+unearthly hue—his eyes, bloodshot and dim, sought the floor;
+while a shudder seemed to run through his frame, as if he saw
+some dreaded form. To the anxious inquiries of the party,
+expressed by significant gestures, the boy only shook his head,
+while a darker shade of sadness passed over his brow. Thinking
+that a slight degree of illness was the cause, Marien kindly
+dismissed him to his repose, in hopes the morrow’s dawn would
+restore him to his usual gaiety, and rising from her seat, placed
+in her father’s hand a small billet. “A grand ball at Government
+House, eh! to be given in honour of our good king’s coronation.
+What say you to that, young people? Wilt thou pay thy devotions
+at the shrine of the laughter-loving muse? No doubt, all the
+beauty and fashion of Antigua will be there. But come, the hour
+is past midnight; and if I keep our Marien up so late, she will
+lose the last of her roses she brought from Old England.” So
+saying, the party separated for the night; and the scene changes
+to another spot, at an earlier hour.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+In one of the deepest parts of a ravine grew a variety of tangled
+bushes, which clothed it to its very bottom with their verdant
+foliage. Disrupted rocks were thickly scattered about, over which
+glided the speckled snake, while cricket and frog kept up an
+incessant chirping. About the commencement of the storm already
+described, a dark figure was seen slowly, but firmly descending
+the steep bank of the ravine, whose nearer approach bespoke him a
+son of Ham, one who wore the chain of bondage. In height he
+measured about six feet, while his broad chest and muscular arms
+shewed his Herculean strength. His complexion was of the deepest
+jet, and his large black eye shone with the fierceness of a
+firebrand. A mantle of dark blue cloth was wrapt around his form,
+leaving his arms and legs bare; and his head was bound round with
+a scarlet handkerchief, the ends of which floated in the breeze
+with graceful negligence. In one hand he bore a massive club,
+which assisted his steps in his descent; while the other rested
+upon a horse-pistol, which, heavily loaded, lay hid in the folds
+of his garment. Upon gaining the bottom of the ravine, he looked
+cautiously around; and then, as if satisfied all was right, he
+raised a conch-shell to his lips, and blew a low but clear blast.
+This repeated thrice, he seated himself upon one of the rocks;
+and burying his face in his hands, mused in silence, unmindful of
+the threatening appearance of the heavens. But a few minutes
+passed, when he again started to his feet, and blew a louder
+blast, which at a short interval was answered by a low whistle;
+and the crackling of dry leaves (as if trodden under foot)
+proclaimed the approach of other visitants. Drawing the pistol
+from its confinement, the first occupant of the ravine stepped a
+few paces forward, and, in a voice rendered thick by contending
+passions, demanded the word. “Death to our foes!” was the answer;
+and in another moment, about forty negroes stood around their
+king. “Welcome, brave friends, to this lone spot; for here at
+least we can feel we are free, and bid defiance to the hated
+whites. But where is Morah? Surely she will not desert us,
+Tomboy?” And he directed his looks to a short stout man, who
+ranked as his general, and answered to that name, and who had
+taken up his post at the right shoulder of his sable majesty.
+“Oh, no; Morah knows too well to desert Klaas at his need.
+Believe not that,” returned the man. “We should have been here
+long before, but she was knocked up with her walk, and we were
+obliged to wait her will. But see!”—and touching the arm of
+Klaas, he pointed to two lusty youths who were coming down the
+bank, bearing between them some object, which could scarcely be
+pronounced human. Placing their burden safely at the feet of
+Klaas, the young men drew back, while he, giving her his hand,
+raised and placed her upon a rocky seat near himself. The woman,
+(for so she proved,) although looking more like the habitant of
+another world, must have numbered her hundredth year. Her face,
+which had lost its naturally black hue from age and sickness, was
+puckered up in a thousand wrinkles; while her toothless gums were
+seen through her thick open lips. The few hairs which time had
+left her were bleached to a snowy white; but her black eyes had
+lost none of their brightness: they gleamed from beneath her
+overhanging brow with a supernatural ray. Her form was bent
+almost double, and the skin hung about her hands and arms like
+black and shrivelled parchment. An old blanket partly covered her
+attenuated person, which she firmly grasped with her long bony
+fingers; but it afforded her no defence against the inclemency of
+the evening; for she shivered and trembled at every blast. Such
+was Morah, the old Obeah woman,[46] who was hated, yet dreaded,
+by nearly all her tribe.
+
+“Morah,” said the leader of the band, after she had rested for a
+few minutes, “Morah, dost thou not know me? hast thou forgot the
+purpose for which we have met? The time is short, remember.”
+
+“Oh, no, no! me no forget,” said the old crone; “me know you very
+well; you’re ‘Count,’ the negro king, as you call yourself, but
+your massa call you ‘Count the Runaway,’” and she laughed
+demoniacally.
+
+“Call me Klaas,” shrieked the negro; “oh! call me not Count—the
+name of my servitude—the name those detested whites gave me when,
+torn from all my heart holds dear, and forced into their ships,
+they brought me to this country, and sold me, for a miserable
+pittance, to the man I despise—the man who, for a small fault,
+had me flogged until the blood gushed down my back. Yes! flogged
+_me_, who was born heir to a kingdom, and who followed the chase
+in my own bright land, free as the zephyr which kisses its sunny
+mountains, until the fortunes of war made me the despised,
+degraded slave I am. Call me not ‘Count,’ I say; for every misery
+I have ever borne is recalled by that hated name. Why was it I
+spurned poor Nuno from me, and embittered her after life?
+Because, in a moment of repose—when the weary toil of the day was
+over—seated before our hut in the bright moonbeam, I talked to
+her of Africa, and of my hopes of soon escaping from my degraded
+state, she raised the demon within me by calling me ‘Count,’ when
+I had taught her to use no other name but ‘Klaas;’ and thus
+bringing all my wrongs before me, I vowed to sacrifice our child
+to the gods of my country should its eyes ever see the light. Oh,
+then, call me not ‘Count’ in this wild ravine, where everything
+breathes an air of freedom, although I am obliged to bear it (but
+not for long, I hope) before the abhorred Christians. Oh! call me
+not ‘Count.’ unless—” and he flung his arms on high, while his
+eyeballs rolled in fire, and every nerve quivered with emotion—
+“unless you wish to see me, like the hunted lanté turn on all
+alike. But enough;”—and by strong effort he mastered his
+turbulent passions, although the perspiration flowed from off his
+forehead in large drops, and his breast heaved like the stormy
+billow;—“I came not here to-night to recite my wrongs, or the
+wrongs of these my comrades; but to plan our redemption from
+them, and the destruction of our enemies. To business, then. But
+first let me ask you, Morah, has Obeah given the sign?”
+
+“An’ think you me come here to-night had he not?” returned the
+old woman, doggedly; “ay, that he has, and a good sign it is; but
+p’raps you no want white man dead, eh? And again the hag uttered
+her horrible laugh, which seemed still more so in the midst of a
+clap of thunder, while her miserable form looked more unearthly
+in the lightning’s flash.
+
+“Death to our foes!” broke from the lips of the leader, which was
+repeated by all the band; and then breaking up the circle in
+which they had been standing, they proceeded to prepare the
+different articles used in their superstitious orgies, under the
+inspection of old Morah, while Klaas and his general, Tomboy,
+conferred apart.
+
+A large hole being dug in the middle of the ravine, and all
+things properly arranged, the king and his companion were called;
+when, joining in a rank around the opening, the mysterious rites
+began. Morah, squatting at one end of the aperture, called upon
+Obeah, under the title of Nzambiampongee, to assist them in the
+extirpation of their foes; and after many a mumbled incantation,
+proceeded to bury in the hole small quantities of gunpowder,
+rusty iron, a little money, and a portion of human hair; while
+Klaas added to the heap by throwing in a few bujis.[47] After
+another incantation was chanted by them all, the hole was
+carefully covered over with black dog-bush,[48] and the earth
+once more thrown in and pressed down. At this moment a
+night-raven screeched, and Morah interpreted it as a kindly sign
+from Obeah; whilst a beautiful speckled snake, gliding over the
+spot, was greeted by Klaas as his country’s god. This ceremony
+over, Morah departed, and other business was discussed. Seated
+upon his rustic throne, Klaas issued his mandates to his
+attentive subjects, who, stretched around, looked up to him as
+their presiding divinity.
+
+“In eight days’ time,” began their king, in a distinct and
+audible tone, “there is to be a ball given by the governor, in
+honour, they say, of their king, and as all our tyrants are
+expected to be present, it has been determined to make that night
+the scene of our grand endeavours, that, at one stroke, shall
+destroy our enemies, and make us once more free. Under yonder
+bushes, where the earth looks fresh, are buried the kegs of
+gunpowder which we have, at various times, been enabled to
+collect; and the night before the ball takes place do you,
+Quashey Coonah, make it your business to remove them carefully up
+to Clark’s hill, where Harry, who has been lately hired there,
+will have them placed under the cellar. Frank, I look to you to
+take care of what arms we have procured, and also to distribute
+them. You will also have those bills sharpened—they may prove
+very useful. I make it my duty to fire the train about the time
+the moon rises above the top of yon mountain, while Tomboy will
+lead the party who is to prevent any of the whites escaping.
+Hercules will lay in wait with his band at the entrance of the
+town; so that, when the flames rise high, and the inhabitants
+hasten to give them assistance, he may fall upon them and prevent
+them. I have sent him and Jemmy to meet a large party of negroes
+up to windward to-night, who, no doubt, will aid us with their
+force; and as many of them are in the habit of going out shooting
+for their masters, they may be able to add a little to our stock
+of powder. Ned, do you try and obtain what arms you can; in such
+a cause, any means are fair.
+
+“Ah! that I will, King Klaas; and look what I have brought you
+to-night,” and turning round, he drew from its sheath a blade of
+the finest steel; “what say you to Massa Colonel’s own good
+sword. He told me to take care of it to-day, after he had done
+looking at it, and to put it carefully up; and so I have, ah!
+ah!” and Ned laughed until the water ran down his cheeks.
+
+“That’s right, my fine fellow!” exclaimed Klaas; and taking it
+from the hand of his comrade, he examined, with intense interest,
+its shining surface. After some moments had passed in this
+employment, he replaced it carefully in its sheath, and, with
+something like a sigh, exclaimed,—“Well, I have been driven to
+this. They might have made me their friend, but harshness,
+contempt, and insult, has conspired to render me what I am; and
+for this bright weapon, perhaps the gallant Colonel Morgan has
+often drawn it in a far less worthy cause. But hist! I hear the
+sound of horses’ feet, and it is time we part. At the close of
+three more days, meet me here again to receive final orders; till
+then, farewell; and remember our motto—‘Death to our foes!’” So
+saying, Klaas rose from his seat, and grasping once more his
+club, prepared to depart. At this moment, however, a slight
+rustle was heard among the brushwood, as if some person was
+retreating, and Klaas, drawing his pistol from his bosom, started
+forward in that direction, followed by the others. “What could it
+be?” was the anxious inquiry, when, after a strict search, no
+object met their view. “What, indeed!” replied their chief; “if
+it was any of our friends, why did they not come forward; but if
+it was a foe—a spy—our plans of vengeance will be defeated, and
+we ourselves dragged to a felon’s death;” and he ground his teeth
+at the thought. As nothing else could be done, they once more
+bade good night, and departed to their respective homes, leaving
+Klaas and his general to make one more attempt to discover the
+cause of the noise.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+Six times had the chariot of the sun rolled along the heavens,
+and bright-eyed Phœbus sought his golden couch, since the
+conspirators gathered around their king in that wild and silent
+glen. Among the inhabitants of Antigua nothing was talked of but
+the governor’s ball, which was to be upon the grandest scale
+imaginable. Many a young heart beat high at the prospect of its
+gaieties, and many a bright eye grew brighter at the thoughts of
+the conquests to be made on that eventful night. The few shops
+which dealt in European fashions were crowded from morning to
+night with fair visitants, or their _femmes de chambre_; and
+laces and bugles, catgut and tiffany, were in constant demand.
+The busy sempstresses plied their needles with double speed; and
+various were the flounces and furbelows, pinkings and quiltings,
+they invented. In the midst of this bustle and activity, this
+anticipation of joyous festivities, a plaint of distress was
+borne down upon the gale: the governor’s best-beloved son—the
+hope and pride of his parents—tossed his fevered head upon the
+couch of sickness; and in a few short hours, that beautiful and
+blooming youth lay a stiffened corse.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+In a large but well-arranged apartment, whose open _jalousies_
+admitted the evening breeze, loaded with the fragrance of the
+Arabian jasmine, were seated three persons. Two out of the group
+ranked under the lofty title of “lords of the creation;” but the
+third was a young and beautiful creature, whose elegant figure
+and flowing ringlets bespoke her one of Nature’s fairest flowers.
+Reclining upon a _fauteuil_, she drew from a lute sounds so soft
+and sweet that every sense was held in thraldom; and anon, when
+she joined her liquid voice, and sang of other days, few were
+there who would wish to break the spell. But the spell was
+ordained to be broken—broken in a sudden manner. The door opened
+hastily, and a negro, darting into the middle of the room,
+exclaimed, in a voice of terror—“Massa, me must speak with you!”—
+“What’s the matter?” returned our elder acquaintance, rising up,
+“what’s the matter, Cuffee? You frightened us by your sudden
+entrance, and sent my Marien’s roses back to her heart.”—“Beg
+your pardon, massa, and yours, young missis, but me have
+something to tell you make your ears ring again: but, massa,
+where’s Julio?—please let him come in.” And without waiting for
+an answer, he left the room in search of the boy. “Marien,
+dearest,” said her father, “take your cousin’s arm, and retire
+for a little, until I have heard what the mad fellow has to say:
+his foolish nonsense has frightened you more than I like to see.”
+And fondly pressing his daughter’s hand, he led her to the door.
+
+In a few minutes Cuffee returned with the boy Julio, who wore the
+same downcast look as he did on the evening of the storm; and,
+holding the boy by the hand, gave his master the following
+narration. Julio, who, from being deaf and dumb, appeared to
+possess the other senses in a higher degree, had one evening
+observed a strange negro loitering about his master’s estate, and
+hiding behind the bushes when any one passed. Thinking this
+peculiar, the dumb boy determined to watch his proceedings, and
+if he discovered anything wrong, to endeavour to acquaint his
+master with it. After spending more than an hour in this
+employment, the stranger departed, and Julio, unable to
+comprehend his motives, and fearful of not being understood, kept
+his discovery to himself. Some weeks had elapsed, and he had
+almost forgotten the circumstance, when, on the evening before
+the storm, he saw the same person lurking about the same spot;
+and, watching him unobserved, perceived he was shortly joined by
+a slave, of the name of Quelch, who, for repeated bad behaviour,
+had been punished by his master a few weeks before. After they
+had consulted for some time together, the stranger pointed in the
+direction of the ravine; and putting his hand under his cloak,
+drew forth a long sharp-pointed knife, which he shewed to his
+companion, giving at the same time a peculiar look. The knife
+being returned to its owner, the negroes parted, leaving Julio
+with the determination of watching Quelch more strictly.
+
+On the next evening, leaving his young mistress engaged with a
+book, the boy left the house with the intention of going to look
+for his master; and, upon gaining the high road, he saw Quelch
+entering an opening on the other side. Following his steps, he
+hid himself among the bushes, and thus became a witness of that
+lawless meeting, where, although he could not hear the words
+uttered, he saw enough to inform him some evil was intended.
+Frightened, and uncertain how to tell his discovery, his first
+care was to reach home; and, harassed in mind and body, the poor
+child stood before his mistress in the manner described. The next
+morning, he sought his uncle Cuffee, and, by significant gestures
+and passionate mutterings, at length made him understand the
+above relation. Cuffee’s first care was to inform a friend of his
+of the name of Robin, and these two negroes watched the ravine
+every night in hopes of discovering what poor Julio could not
+inform them—the names of the conspirators. All, however, remained
+silent: the ravine had no occupants: and Robin and Cuffee were
+almost inclined to think they had misunderstood the boy, when,
+one evening, just as they had gained their accustomed post, they
+thought they heard the sound of voices; and, creeping upon their
+hands and knees, espied the whole band, with Klaas, or, as they
+called him, “Count,” at their head, plotting their dreadful
+schemes. Knowing that this negro king was the father of Julio,
+Cuffee liked not to inform against him; and the next morning
+bringing intelligence of the death of the governor’s son, and
+consequently the prorogation of the ball, he was in hopes the
+negroes would get disheartened at the failure of their plans, and
+forego their horrible intentions. Still he determined to keep an
+eye upon their movements; and a few weeks after, through the
+medium of another slave, named Manuel, he discovered that the
+conspirators intended to put their designs into execution on the
+15th of December; and that they were to have a final meeting in
+the ravine, to receive orders from their king.
+
+These were the tidings Cuffee conveyed to his master’s ear—
+tidings which made his stout heart beat faster, and caused a
+shade of care, for once, to cross his brow. The time was short:
+the next night was the one on which the negroes were to meet, and
+Mr. ———, after leaving a kind message to his daughter, to excuse
+his absence, started immediately for the capital, accompanied by
+Robin and Cuffee, to lay the information before the proper
+authorities.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+The evening was calm. There was no moon, but the stars shone
+bright, and, by their refulgence, parties of men were seen
+walking cautiously along in the same direction. Every now and
+then they stopped as if to listen, and then proceeded again, as
+no sound met their ear. Leaving the high road, they struck across
+a wild and sterile plain, until, arriving at the bank of a kind
+of rocky defile, where the sable conspirators held their
+nocturnal meetings, they separated; and taking up their position
+on all sides, and holding their very breath, they presented more
+the appearance of marble statues than living men. After remaining
+in this situation for some time, a noise was heard as the tramp
+of a body of horse passing over a flinty road—no uncommon
+occurrence at that period. The sound came nearer and nearer, and
+presently a large band of soldiers appeared in sight, led by a
+middle-aged officer, and accompanied by several gentlemen. Riding
+for a short distance past the ravine, the word was given, “Halt!”
+and in a moment the horses stood motionless. “Dismount!” broke
+from the lips of the commander, and the men, all heavily armed,
+sprang to the ground. Walking quickly forward, they joined the
+watchers around the ravine, while their leader, followed by many
+others, bounded down the bank, and exclaimed, in a stentorian
+tone, “Surrender! or you are dead men.” All was confusion among
+the assembled conspirators. Hemmed in on all sides, and daunted
+by the gleaming arms and pointed muskets of the soldiers, who
+came so silently but surely upon them, the negro band were driven
+to despair. Klaas alone maintained his firmness, and shouted in a
+voice of thunder, “Fire the gunpowder, lads, fire the gunpowder,
+and let us die as brave men, and not as cowards. Who will mourn
+the fate which will be shared by our hated tyrants!” But this was
+not to be. Overpowered by numbers, their arms tightly pinioned
+behind them, their mouths gagged, and held between two soldiers,
+negro after negro was marched off—the ravine was left to its
+usual silence—and the reign of “Klaas,” the “Slave King,” was
+over.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+So ends the legend. The conspirators being conveyed to the
+capital, various were the punishments awarded them. Klaas, or, as
+he was more generally called, “Count,” Tomboy, and Hercules were
+broken alive upon the wheel. In their last moments their
+fortitude did not forsake them; and their last words expressed
+their hatred to the whites. Some were gibbeted alive in a place
+called Green’s Bay. Frank, who belonged to E. Chester, Esq., and
+several more, were burned in Otto’s pasture, at the outskirts of
+the capital; and the rest, who were looked upon as the dupes of
+their reputed king, were transported to the Spanish coasts.
+Quelch was pardoned: he played the traitor’s part, and amused the
+ear of Klaas and his comrades with some chimerical scheme while
+the soldiers passed by who accomplished their destruction; and
+old Morah, the Obeah woman who attended their meetings, escaped
+punishment by falling a prey to death before her trial. So signal
+was the victory obtained, and so severe the punishment of the
+conspirators, that the remaining slaves became intimidated, and
+quietly bore their yoke without seeking for deliverance. In 1739,
+the country emancipated Cuffee and Robin for their discovery of
+this insurrection, paying to their masters their respective
+value, and presented Manuel with a reward for his services in
+that affair.[49]
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[46] A dealer in necromancy.
+
+[47] A small white shell, about the size and shape of an olive,
+used as the general currency in Guinea.
+
+[48] A wild shrub, supposed to be of great use in witchcraft.
+
+[49] For some further particulars, see Appendix, No. 14.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER X.
+
+
+
+  Governor William Mathew—Sir George Thomas, Bart.—James Verchild
+  —Honourable William Woodley—Sir Ralph Payne—Hon. Craister
+  Greathead—General Burt—The circumstances of his death—Sir
+  Thomas Shirley, Bart.
+
+After the suppression of the insurrection related in the last
+chapter, it was resolved in future to keep a better watch over
+the negroes, and be more strict in the government of them. Slaves
+were not to be allowed to congregate about the streets of St.
+John’s; and if they refused to disperse, when ordered to do so,
+it was justifiable to fire upon them: the country paying for
+those who were shot. If any of the negroes were suspected of
+treasonable practices, conspiracies, or insurrections, they were
+to suffer torture, not extending to death; but in case any of
+them died under the pain of having a limb cut off, &c., the owner
+of such slaves received the value of them from the public
+treasury.
+
+The inhabitants appear to have been quite alarmed at the state of
+affairs, particularly as there were but few white people still
+upon the island compared with the negroes. In 1740-1, it was
+again taken into consideration how to increase the number; and
+after some deliberation, it was determined to give further
+encouragement for the importation of white servants, by adding a
+bounty of 40s. to that already given. It was also ordained, that
+every owner or renter of slaves should, for every thirty negroes,
+have a white man in his employ, under a penalty of 20l. for each,
+according to the number of slaves. This gave rise to the custom
+of building “free tenancies,” which were houses given to white
+persons to reside in, without receiving rent for the same; and by
+this means, the proprietor escaped the obligation which the law
+enforced of employing so many white servants or overseers.
+
+In 1741, Rat Island, as it is called, although in reality a
+promontory, was purchased by the country, and barracks and
+fortifications erected thereon. War having broken out between
+England and France, the Antiguans suffered very much in their
+commerce. Commodore Lee had been sent out to protect the trade,
+but, it appears, he did not act like a British officer; for when
+stationed off Antigua, he allowed a French fleet of merchantmen
+and their convoy to pass his vessels without molestation, and
+actually captured some of the Antigua coasters. In 1747,
+complaints against him were sent home, and Commodore Legge was
+despatched to Antigua, with full power to try the case. The
+Antiguans were obliged this year to purchase and maintain a
+vessel to protect their small crafts, so harassed were they by
+the French privateers.
+
+The lieutenant-governor of Antigua, Colonel George Lucas, died
+this year, (1747,) at Brest, where he was detained prisoner,
+having been taken by a French vessel of war, on his way to
+England the year before. The following year, (1748,) a petition
+was sent home, praying his majesty for satisfaction for the
+injury suffered by the incursions of the French. About this
+period, the court-house was commenced to be built, on the spot
+where the market used to be held. Hitherto a house was rented for
+that purpose, which was found to be very inconvenient, for many
+reasons; and as there was no particular place appointed for the
+offices of the secretary or provost-marshal, it was found
+expedient to erect such building as soon as possible, and
+appropriate a part of it for those offices.
+
+In 1752, George Thomas, Esq., succeeded his excellency William
+Mathew, Esq., in the government of Antigua, and the rest of the
+Leeward Islands, as captain-general. The following year (1753) a
+fund was raised to purchase land, for the purpose of building
+additional barracks for the accommodation of the regiment of foot
+stationed in Antigua, and also building a guard-house in the town
+of St. John’s. In the same year, an additional support for his
+excellency, George Thomas, was appointed to be paid to him during
+his government. The erection of a new church at Parham was
+commenced in 1755; a yearly tax having been imposed upon the
+inhabitants, for the expense of the erection, and for keeping it
+afterwards repaired. This year, too, it was found, that the white
+inhabitants had so materially decreased in number,
+notwithstanding strenuous measures had been taken since 1716 to
+encourage the importation of them, that it was thought necessary
+to offer further inducements to white persons to emigrate from
+England to this colony. In order that this object should be more
+fully carried out, heavier penalties were also this year enforced
+upon proprietors and renters of negroes, if they neglected to
+have in their employ a white Protestant person for every thirty
+slaves; for many owners had evaded the law, by paying the
+penalty, rather than be obliged to maintain a white servant. The
+number of white inhabitants at this period was but little more
+than 3000, while the negroes amounted to about 32,000. In 1757, a
+portion of land was appropriated for building a house for the
+accommodation of the train of artillery in the town of St.
+John’s.
+
+In 1758, the French threatened an invasion of Antigua. War had
+broken out between England, and France; and, as was always the
+case in such times, the French began to plague their English
+neighbours in the West Indies. The Antiguans, hearing of their
+intentions, hastily equipped several privateers to cruise about
+the island, which were fortunate enough to take some prizes, and
+intimidate the French. It was found by experience, that these
+privateers injured the French more in their commerce than even
+the men-of-war; and for this reason, the country gave great
+encouragement to the fitters-out of such vessels.
+
+The following year, (1759,) Commodore Moore commanded the Leeward
+Island station, and the brave Captain Tyrrel was ordered to
+protect the island of Antigua. This gentleman, whose courage and
+activity were equal to his conduct and circumspection, had, early
+in the month of March previous, demolished a fort at Martinique,
+and destroyed four privateers riding under its protection. On his
+return to Antigua, he discovered a large fleet of the enemy’s;
+and giving immediate chase, attended by the “Weazle” man-of-war,
+he quickly came up with them, and after a desperate fight,
+scattered and dispersed them. Capt. Tyrrel was wounded in the
+face, and lost three of the fingers of his right hand. This year,
+too, the island of Guadaloupe was taken by the English; and the
+Antiguans (on the faith of a proclamation issued by the governor,
+pledging the country to pay the value of such slaves as might be
+killed or desert) sent a large complement of negroes to act as
+pioneers, and assist in drawing the artillery. During the next
+year, several prizes were taken by the Antigua privateers; and
+Captain O’Brien, of H. M. S. “Griffen,” assisted by Captain
+Taylor of the “Temple,” took three large vessels off Antigua, and
+brought them into English Harbour.
+
+The year 1760 is celebrated for the introduction of methodism
+into Antigua, by a Mr. Gilbert, which, from a very small
+beginning, has overspread the whole island, and proved of
+infinite value to the inhabitants. In 1761, assurance was
+prohibited on all French vessels and merchandise; and also all
+vessels trading to France, or the French colonies, during the
+war. During this year regulations were made respecting the
+manumission of slaves. Antigua certainly set a bright example to
+the other islands, in days of slavery, of never withholding from
+its negroes _that_ privilege. The following year, 1762, the
+necessity of having the laws of the island printed was again
+brought before the council and assembly, which was unanimously
+agreed to. The same year Antigua again supplied a complement of
+strong negroes, to serve as pioneers, &c., under the command of
+the Right Honourable the Earl of Albemarle, in an intended
+expedition against Martinique. The year 1765 was the last that
+Sir George Thomas continued in the government of the Leeward
+Caribbee Islands.[50]
+
+James Verchild, Esq., was appointed to succeed Sir George Thomas
+in the government in 1766; and during that year harbour-masters
+were appointed. Antigua still appearing deficient in white
+inhabitants, in 1767 further regulations were made, which would,
+it was hoped, tend to increase the number, and retain in the
+island many families who were upon the point of leaving it. The
+cause of these persons emigrating, it appears, was on account of
+their not being allowed to reckon the female members of their
+family, in the place of a white servant to so many slaves, as the
+law required, as was the case in Jamaica and St. Vincent’s; it
+was therefore deemed expedient this year to give way in this
+respect, and permit two women to count as one man.
+
+In 1768, William Woodley, Esq., was appointed commander-in-chief
+of Antigua, and the other Leeward Caribbee Islands. During his
+administration, a dreadful fire broke out in the town of St.
+John’s, which did great damage, but of which a further account
+will be given in another part of this work. Large sums of money
+were granted, and a collection made for the sufferers at
+Liverpool. Precautions were afterwards taken, by regulating
+certain buildings about the capital; but unfortunately those wise
+regulations have long since fallen into disuse. In 1769, the snow
+“Rodney” put into Antigua, in distress. She had been despatched
+from England with convicts, who were to be employed in the State
+of Maryland, but meeting first with bad weather, and afterwards
+long calms, all their provisions were consumed; and when they
+fortunately made Antigua, eleven of the convicts had died from
+starvation, and the survivors had eaten their very shoes.
+
+In 1771, Sir Ralph Payne, K.G., succeeded to the government. His
+excellency was a native of St. Kitts, and was esteemed for many
+qualities. The Antiguans were quite pleased with his nomination,
+supposing he would have the interests of these colonies greatly
+at heart. The first year of his administration the common gaol
+was rebuilt, which had been burnt down in the late fire; and a
+portion of land, contiguous to it, purchased for the purpose of
+enlarging that part appropriated for the use of the debtors. The
+year 1771 is celebrated as that in which the “Sugar Ants” first
+made their appearance in Antigua. They were supposed to have made
+their way from Dominica to this island; and, minute as they are,
+they proved a most formidable enemy, by destroying an immense
+quantity of sugar-canes. This year also marks the appointment of
+Sir George Pownall to the situation of provostmaster-general of
+the Leeward Islands, under letters patent, dated 7th June, in the
+eleventh year of the reign of his majesty George III. This grant
+had been made to the father of Sir George, after the death of the
+former patentee, Mr. Richard Phelps—“to be held with all fees,
+rights, profits, privileges, and advantages,” for the lives of
+Mr. Pownall, and his two sons, Sir George Pownall, and Mr. John
+Lillington Pownall.
+
+In 1772, Antigua suffered very much from the effects of a
+hurricane; great damage was done to the shipping both in St.
+John’s Harbour, and also in English Harbour. The “Chatham,”
+commanded by Admiral Parry, the “Seahorse,” and some other
+vessels of his majesty’s service, were driven on shore, and
+several merchantmen were sunk. In 1774, Sir Ralph Payne was
+ordered home, much against the wish of the Antiguans; and a
+petition was forwarded to England praying his majesty to
+re-appoint him.
+
+Craister Greathead, Esq., another West Indian, succeeded Sir
+Ralph Payne as commander-in-chief in 1775, but he appears to have
+given St. Kitts the preference, principally residing in that
+island. Nothing of importance occurred during his administration;
+happily for the Antiguans, war was principally confined to
+another quarter, which gave them a little time to look about
+them, and redress their domestic grievances.
+
+In 1777, General William Mathew Burt was appointed to the
+government, and a suitable residence prepared for his reception.
+The following year, war, blood-stained war, unfurled his red
+banner in these “gems of the sea”—these beautiful West Indian
+islands. On all sides of Antigua did the battle rage; island
+after island surrendered either to French or English prowess; and
+the fears of the Antiguans were raised for the safety of their
+little domicile. Nor was war alone the only impending evil she
+had to dread; the heavens withheld their bounty, and the country
+fainted beneath a burning sun; famine, it was supposed, would be
+the result, and had it not been for the interposition of his
+gracious majesty George III., by advancing 20,000l. sterling to
+procure subsistence for the negroes, their fears would have
+proved too true. Yet although this kind loan to the country
+averted much evil, the series of calamities they had already
+suffered caused so much sickness, that in the course of the next
+year, 1780, it was the opinion of Dr. Samuel Athill that upwards
+of eight thousand negroes died.
+
+In 1778, fresh regulations were made for the better government of
+slaves, and for establishing certain days, viz.—the whole time
+from sunset on Christmas-eve, to sunrise of the 28th of December,
+as their holidays. No other days were to be allowed the slaves by
+their owners in place of those specified; and no slave-holder
+could refuse to allow them such holidays, under a penalty of
+100l.: one-half of the fine to go to the informer, the other half
+to the public treasury—during these holidays martial law was to
+be in force.
+
+About this period Lord Rodney took command of the fleet which was
+stationed in these seas, and was fortunate enough to beat off the
+French, and thus spare the Antiguans the horrors of an invasion,
+which was but too successful at St. Kitts. The name of this
+gallant officer is still remembered with gratitude and affection
+by West Indians; and not many years ago, the stranger who visited
+Barbados was highly entertained with an old black woman, who
+passed by the title of “Lady Rodney,” and who wore upon her dark
+fat arm a picture of the Admiral, which he gave her at parting.
+But alas! like the noble lord, she has passed to another world,
+and no longer do the young _midds_ of her majesty’s service, who
+visit Barbados, recognise her shrill cry of “hab best guaba fine
+pine, and hot ginger drink for noung buckru me lob.”
+
+The fortifications of Goat Hill, and Great George Fort, at
+Barnacle Point, were completed during the administration of
+General Burt, as well as several other forts, which were very
+necessary in this season of warfare. About this period slaves
+were forbidden to vend sugar, rum, molasses, or sugar canes,
+besides many other articles.
+
+The circumstances attending the death of Governor Burt were very
+extraordinary. Upon a certain day his excellency honoured a
+gentleman of the island with his company to dinner, and during
+the repast he was as gay as any at that festive board. Soon after
+the cloth was withdrawn, when the laughing wine sparkled in the
+crystal chalice, and, surrounded by all the good things of this
+world, the convivial party threw off all cares, they were
+surprised to hear the governor call to his servant to bring his
+sword, which he always carried abroad with him. Wondering at this
+command, yet too well bred to make inquiries, the company waited
+in silence until the order was performed. The sword was brought
+and handed to the governor; when, unsheathing it in an instant,
+he exclaimed, in a loud voice—“Tell that fellow to quit the back
+of my chair, or I will run him through!” The company were more
+amazed than ever. What could the governor mean? no one was behind
+his chair; no one was in the room but themselves and the
+domestics. Uncertain what to do or say, they still remained
+silent; when the governor repeated, in a still louder tone, “Send
+away that man, or I will run him through!” It was represented to
+his excellency that he laboured under a mistake, that no one was
+behind his chair; but it was of no avail, all that could be got
+from him was, “Send away that man, or I will run him through!” In
+this state he was carried home, and every art tried to restore
+him to his proper senses; but all was of no avail, he never
+recovered the shock; and in a short time after he fell a prey to
+that insatiable monster, Death, who so justly says—
+
+    “I visit the halls of the great and gay,
+    And snatch them from all their delight away;
+    I rest at the villager’s humble door,
+    For welcome alike are the rich and the poor.”
+
+It has been said that the governor was poisoned, and that the
+mixture, or whatever other form it was administered in, was so
+prepared as to have the effects of unsettling his reason; but
+possibly it was a case of _delirium tremens_, without the
+assistance of any deleterious drug or herb.
+
+This circumstance is related in a different manner; and as I am
+not aware which is the most correct, will lay them both before my
+readers, that they may judge for themselves. General Burt, it is
+said, was dining at a party at “Pensive Hall,” (the name of the
+great house upon Martin Byam’s estate, now belonging to Messrs.
+Shands, of Liverpool, England,) when he saw an apparition, which
+informed him, that ere twelve moons had waxed and waned, this
+mandate should be issued to him—“Thou shalt die and not live!” He
+related the circumstance to the party, and expressed his firm
+belief in it. His friends removed him to the Great House upon
+Weir’s estate, (the present seat of Francis Byam Ottly, Esq.,)
+and by convivial parties, strove to overcome his melancholy
+forebodings; but all was of no effect. He finally sailed for
+England, and died upon his passage, the _very day twelve months_
+he saw the apparition.
+
+After the death of General Burt, in 1781, Major-General Sir
+Thomas Shirley, Bart., was appointed to the office of
+commander-in-chief. No events of importance marked the first year
+of his government, except that the gallant Admiral Vernon
+obtained a complete victory over the French fleet, between this
+island and Guadaloupe, and followed up his success by many other
+naval conquests. General Prescott, commander of the 69th
+regiment, and the Antiguan troops, landed at St. Kitt’s, and
+drove the enemy before them with great slaughter.
+
+In 1782, St. John’s again suffered severely from a destructive
+fire, which broke out in one of the most densely-populated parts
+of the town. It was this disaster which gave rise to the
+establishment of the “Friendly Fire Company,” every member of
+which pledged himself to keep in good order a certain number of
+buckets; as also to practise themselves in the use of their
+engines. Soon after the formation of this society, the “Phœnix
+Fire Office,” in Lombard-street, London, sent out proposals for
+insurance—the first which were ever made in Antigua, and for many
+years, that office was the only one which would grant security
+upon West Indian property.
+
+In 1784, it was resolved to make some alterations in the oaths
+required of white servants. Prior to this year, they were obliged
+to swear to their being Protestants, as well as take the oaths of
+allegiance; from which cause many quiet and useful persons were
+debarred from receiving the rewards held out to other white
+emigrants, on account of their not being nurtured in the
+Protestant religion. It was therefore enacted that no other oaths
+should be required but those of allegiance to the reigning
+monarch and his successors. A nightly watch was also established
+in the town of St. John’s, and a tax levied upon the inhabitants
+to defray the expenses of it. It was in this year, also, that it
+was contemplated to allow slaves a trial by jury; but it does not
+appear to have been carried into effect until 1798. The former
+method of trying these sable defaulters was to bring them before
+a justice of the peace, and if his worship considered the offence
+worthy of the highest punishment, he called to his aid a
+fellow-justice, and between them they condemned the culprit to
+death, causing such sentence to be immediately executed.
+
+Regulations were again very judiciously made for the better
+erection of kitchens, blacksmiths’ shops, bakeries, &c., in order
+to prevent, as far as possible, the repetition of those fatal
+fires which had so lately devastated great part of the capital.
+Such buildings erected within the precincts of St. John’s were,
+in future, to be constructed of stone or brick, and the roofs to
+be cased with tiles or slates. Like many other wise purposes,
+these regulations have long ago fallen into disuse; and at the
+present day, in an old wooden shed, in the midst of a populous
+neighbourhood, a blacksmith drives his trade; and as you pass the
+open door, his huge fire may be seen vomiting forth its tongues
+of flame, while showers of bright sparks, struck from the glowing
+iron, often find a resting-place amid the surrounding heaps of
+combustibles. Surely such practices ought to be noticed by “the
+powers that be,” particularly when we have lately had such
+distressing proofs of the havoc made by that destructive element.
+In 1784 the churchwardens were empowered to sell certain portions
+of public lands, and to purchase other lots, for the more
+convenient erection of a parish hospital. Amendments were also
+made in the act passed in 1766, for the prevention of damage to
+the harbour of St. John’s, and for appointing a harbour-master,
+who was to be “a person bred to the sea, and otherwise
+sufficiently skilled and qualified to take charge of the port and
+harbour of St. John’s, including the cove.”
+
+In 1786, a tax was raised upon the inhabitants of St. John’s, to
+defray the expenses of cleaning and repairing the streets of the
+capital. This must have been very requisite, if they were really
+in the state described in the following passage, (extracted from
+a letter written from Antigua August 1, 1786.) “The streets are
+spacious, but unpaved, _nor is there the least care taken to keep
+them clean_. The prickly pear bush, and other shrubs, are
+suffered to grow therein, to the annoyance of the passengers, the
+secreting of every species of nastiness, and to the great
+increase of vermin, insects, and reptiles, with which this place
+abounds.” Public billiard and other gaming-tables were
+prohibited, under pain of forfeiture; much to the good order and
+welfare of the island.
+
+In 1787, our late beloved and lamented sovereign William IV.
+(then Prince William Henry) honoured Antigua with a visit. During
+the period of his stay there, he endeared himself to every heart,
+by that kind condescension and sympathy of manner which marked
+his every stage through life. As no doubt it will be interesting
+to my readers to have some account of the manner in which his
+highness passed his time, I will insert the following letter,
+written by John Luffman, the author of the map of Antigua, and
+published, among other of his epistolary productions, in 1789.
+
+                            “St. John’s, Antigua, Jan. 16, 1787.
+
+“Dear Sir,—Prince William Henry arrived here the latter end of
+last month in the Pegasus frigate. His appearance has put this
+little community into a ferment. Addresses were immediately
+presented to him from the legislative body, and likewise from the
+merchants, expressive of loyalty to his royal father, and of the
+happiness and honour his highness had conferred on them by his
+gracious visit. The address of the legislature was read and
+presented by a Mr. John Burke, solicitor-general of the Leeward
+Islands, and speaker of the assembly of this island; but,
+notwithstanding this gentleman has been for years hackneyed at
+the bar, and is a bold orator; yet, on this occasion, to the
+astonishment of every bystander, he was nearly bereft of the
+power of utterance. The merchants’ address was read and presented
+by a Mr. John Scotland. His highness received these effusions of
+loyalty to his illustrious parent, and of respect to himself,
+with great satisfaction, and returned gracious answers. Each of
+these bodies gave a public dinner and ball for his highness’s
+entertainment. The prince opened both balls with Miss A———
+(Athill), a beautiful young lady of respectable family; and his
+affability, politeness, and condescension, to every person who
+had the honour of his conversation, was as conspicuous as it was
+pleasing. The ladies put their best smiles upon their faces, and
+their best adornments upon their persons; indeed, every
+individual seemed emulous of shewing respect to the royal
+visitor. Many offers of particular attention and civility have
+been made to his highness, which he in general declined, wishing
+rather to appear in the humble character of a private gentleman,
+than in the dignified situation of a prince. How long he means to
+honour this isle with his presence, I cannot with certainty
+learn,—it will probably be several months; the people here, I
+believe, hope and _wish it may be for years_. The negroes look at
+the _Grande Bocrah_ (so they call the prince) with astonishment,
+and sometimes incommode him as he walks the streets; but his
+highness possesses all _that admired frankness and noble
+liberality_ so characteristic in a British seaman, and will
+frequently condescend to talk with them. Capt. Nelson, of the
+“Boreas,” Capt. Holloway, of the “Solebar,” and the other
+principal naval officers on this station, are his highness’s
+chief attendants on all occasions.
+
+                      “I remain, &c. &c.”
+
+In 1788, two Jews were tried at the court of grand sessions, for
+a robbery committed upon one of their tribe. “Marcus” (the name
+of the one most culpable) was condemned to suffer death by
+hanging, but was afterwards pardoned; while “Vanban” (the name of
+the other culprit) was sentenced to stand in the pillory for a
+certain number of hours. This punishment, however, did not appear
+to make due impression upon the guilty Israelite, for a spectator
+of the exhibition (in a letter written to a friend) describes him
+as standing there with the utmost assurance, “holding, with one
+hand, his hat before his face, and with the other, supporting an
+umbrella to prevent the sun warming his head.”
+
+In the latter end of June, 1788, Sir Thomas Shirley quitted the
+government, and sailed for England in the “Roehampton,” commanded
+by Captain Ross. His excellency, it appears, felt aggrieved at
+some treatment he received from the legislature, and accordingly,
+upon his departure, he refused the vote of civility from that
+body, and proceeded on board the vessel, attended only by his
+private secretary. Mr. Nugent assumed the command as
+lieutenant-governor, and soon after his arrival, a new road,
+leading to Five Islands Division, was made, and great care taken
+to drive piles in that part of the town known as the “Big
+Market,” in order to prevent, if possible, any further
+encroachment of sea, which had, within the last few months,
+almost destroyed the old highway.
+
+In 1790, Sir Thomas Shirley again resumed the government of the
+Leeward Islands, and soon after his arrival, it was enacted by
+the legislature, that it should be lawful for the vestry of St.
+John’s to levy a tax (not exceeding 2l. per cent. on value of
+goods sold) upon every transient or non-resident trader who shall
+visit the island, which tax was to be applied to the maintenance
+of ministers, the poor of the parish, or any similar purposes.
+The following year the fortifications at Dow’s Hill were
+commenced, the appearance of which, at this day, proves the
+erector’s knowledge of rampart and bastion. Amendments were also
+made (1791) as regarded the keeping of rum-shops, or selling any
+spirituous liquors. Prior to this period, no free negro or
+mulatto could keep such an establishment, or sell any strong
+drink or wine under a heavy penalty; or if even they were
+concerned in such a business with a white person, it was
+punishable in both; but under this government the case was
+altered, for upon applying to the court of king’s bench, persons
+of their caste and colour could obtain a licence by giving
+security. An act was passed (containing 227 clauses) for the
+better regulating the island courts, and due methods effected for
+an improved administration of justice. It had been formerly the
+practice in Antigua to burn such felons as were within the
+benefit of clergy, in the hand, but this year the punishment was
+commuted to public or private whippings, inflicted once or
+oftener, but not more than at three different periods. This was
+the last decree signed by his excellency: he appears to have been
+an able and just governor, and well calculated for a
+representative of royalty. After the departure of his excellency,
+John Nugent, Esq., resumed the command as lieutenant-governor
+until the following year, when the Honourable William Woodley was
+re-appointed.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[50] For genealogy of this gentleman, and when created a Baronet,
+see Appendix, No. 15.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+
+  Governors: William Woodley—John Stanley—Major-General Charles
+  Leigh—Archibald Esdail—John S. Thomas—Robert Thomson.
+
+In 1792, William Woodley, Esq., was again appointed
+commander-in-chief; and, soon after his arrival, the increase of
+the importation of white servants was again taken into
+consideration.
+
+Antigua had never reckoned a large population of whites; indeed,
+from various causes, they were continually decreasing. This could
+not be attributed to the want of encouragement given to settlers,
+but from the situation of the island itself. Although Antigua is
+naturally fortified by rocks and breakers, which defends it from
+the attacks of large vessels; yet there are so many creeks and
+harbours (which, with a small population, it was almost
+impossible to protect) that the French and Caribs found it an
+easy matter to land in their canoes, and destroy and plunder the
+country, and ill-treat the inhabitants. From these circumstances,
+emigrants were unwilling to settle here, but preferred going to
+some of the other islands, which were less liable to these
+incursions. To counteract these evils, and increase the number of
+white inhabitants, various plans, as already shewn, had been
+adopted by former governors,—fines were imposed upon proprietors
+if they did not employ one able-bodied white man to every thirty
+slaves, supposing that would tend to augment the population. But
+as it was found that the law was still eluded, by owners paying
+the penalty rather than maintain so many white servants, it was
+agreed, this year, by the governor, council, and assembly to
+increase the fine to 53l. 6s. 8d. for every deficient white
+servant to forty slaves annually. Possibly this might have had,
+in some degree, the desired effect; for, in 1800, we find there
+were about 3000 white inhabitants to 36,000 negroes, which had
+not been the case for the last forty years.
+
+In 1793, the militia was regulated, and formed into “one squadron
+of light dragoons, who were to serve on foot and horseback; two
+regiments and one independent company of foot; and one battalion
+of artillery.” The dragoons were to be named by the governor and
+council; and although not to be appointed without their own
+consent, when once entered, they were not at liberty to remove to
+another corps, unless promoted by the governor to a commission.
+Only one person from an estate could serve in the dragoons, which
+squadron was to consist of never more than one hundred and eight
+men—non-commissioned officers and privates included—or less than
+sixty. This was the first year any free negro or coloured person
+was allowed to serve in the militia, when they were appointed to
+the under services of artillery, and to act as pioneers, and made
+subject to the same fines as privates of foot. It appears this
+was also the year uniforms were appointed for the militia, which
+being well arranged, made a good show upon their monthly
+field-days. Antigua was visited this year by a malignant fever,
+which caused a great many deaths. It was supposed to have been
+brought from Grenada in H. M. S. Experiment, and conveyed ashore
+in some of the sailors’ bedding.
+
+John Stanley, Esq., succeeded Mr. Woodley in the government, and
+arrived the latter end of the same year, (1793,) but he did not
+reside often in Antigua, giving St. Kitts the preference. In
+1794, Antigua sent a complement of men, and some negro slaves, to
+assist in the reduction of Martinique and Guadaloupe; and upon
+the taking of those islands, the governor, council, and assembly,
+issued a proclamation, forbidding any free persons of colour, or
+negro slaves belonging to those places, from coming to, or
+remaining in, this island. During the next year an annuity was
+granted to the Honourable Edward Byam, the president of Antigua,
+for his many services to the island, which has been alluded to in
+a former chapter. A sum of money was also raised for defraying
+the expenses of the war, which had been very heavy for the last
+three years.
+
+Major-General Charles Leigh was appointed commander-in-chief in
+1795, but did not continue in the government more than twelve
+months. During this period, it was agreed to allow such of the
+poorer classes of white persons who might be wounded (while
+serving in the militia) so severely as to affect their
+after-life, 70l. annually; if killed, their widows to receive
+40l. annually, during their widowhood; and their children, 20l.
+annually, until they attained the age of fourteen. Additional pay
+was also provided for the gunner and matrosses employed in the
+several forts, and new regulations for the better ordering of the
+militia, which in these seasons of danger was very necessary, for
+the West Indies were still in an unsettled state, and their old
+enemies the French were always on the look-out for opportunities
+of increasing their possessions in these seas. Major-General
+Leigh becoming disgusted with the West Indies, he determined to
+return to England, and accordingly embarked on board a vessel
+bound for that place, on the 3rd July, 1796, without permission
+from his majesty.
+
+At the departure of Major-General Leigh, there happened to be
+none of the lieutenant-governors of the Leeward Caribbee Islands
+in the West Indies; and accordingly, Archibald Esdail, Esq., a
+counsellor of St. Christopher’s[51] claimed the administration of
+the government, and acted as such until his death, which happened
+about three months after; but he did not visit Antigua to take
+upon him the administration of the government, as he ought to
+have done by direction of the reigning monarch. Upon his decease,
+the lieutenant-governors being still absent, John S. Thomas,
+Esq., another resident of St. Christopher’s, represented himself
+as first counsellor, and exercised the office of governor until
+April, the following year, (1797.) Nothing of any consequence
+occurred during his short administration, and very little can be
+said about him in this place, for, like his predecessor, he never
+honoured Antigua with his presence. The Kittefonians appeared to
+have had it all their own way at that period, for no sooner had
+Mr. Thomas breathed his last sigh, than another member of that
+community, Robert Thomson, Esq., followed the example set before
+him, represented himself as the oldest counsellor, and,
+consequently, entitled to the vacant government; in which office
+he continued until the arrival of the Right Honourable Lord
+Lavington, (who was formerly governor under the title of Sir
+Ralph Payne,) in 1801. During the three years Mr. Thomson was
+governor, he visited Antigua for about three days, in March,
+1800, so that the Antiguans had not much of their
+commander-in-chief’s society; but the council and assembly appear
+to have gone on very well without him, and framed some very good
+laws.
+
+The first year of Mr. Thomson’s government, Antigua had a visitor
+in the person of that indefatigable, but unfortunate traveller,
+Mungo Park. Mr. Park had embarked on board the “Charlestown,” an
+American slaver, commanded by a Captain Harris, who was bound to
+Antigua with his live cargo. Upon nearing the island, the vessel
+struck upon a rock and narrowly escaped shipwreck; it was,
+however, at length got off, and brought into St. John’s harbour,
+where part of the cargo was sold. Mr. Park remained in Antigua
+until the arrival of the “Chesterfield” packet, in which he took
+passage to England. He speaks of Antigua as the loveliest of all
+lovely isles.
+
+Whilst Mr. Thomson was residing at St. Kitts as
+commander-in-chief, the Antiguans were busy in again raising
+funds to defray the expenses of the war, which had been, and
+still were, very great. It was also enacted, that if any free
+coloured, or white person, killed or wounded a slave belonging to
+themselves or any one else, such offenders were to be considered
+as murderers, and, consequently, as worthy of punishment as if
+their victim possessed the fairest skin. That the life of a negro
+was no longer to be considered “in law” as the “life of a dog,”
+but that he was at length to be looked upon as human.
+
+Antigua has always been liable to droughts, and, in such season,
+serious losses have occurred from the slaves dying for want of
+good water; to remedy this evil, as far as laid in their power, a
+tax was imposed upon all sugar plantations and houses in the
+island, which did not possess one or more cisterns.
+
+This year (1798) appears to have been the first time that slaves
+were really tried by jury, which was then made to consist of six
+reputable white inhabitants. If upon trial they were found worthy
+of death, the justices of the peace were to acquaint the
+governor, or whoever might at such time be in command of the
+island, with the sentence, in thirty-six hours after it was
+pronounced, under a penalty of 20l. The provost-marshal was also
+obliged to attend such trial, under a fine of 20l.; and for his
+trouble he was to receive 3s. for summoning each juror, and 33s.
+for his attendance.
+
+In the middle of this year, a general council and assembly was
+held at St. Kitts; and amongst other affairs discussed, it was
+determined to pass certain regulations which would tend to
+ameliorate the condition of slaves.[52] All owners of slaves were
+to furnish a certain quantity of provisions for each slave, under
+a penalty of 10s. per head weekly, which was to be distributed
+among the negroes at the discretion of the master, and old and
+infirm slaves were to receive their full allowance. Perhaps it
+may not be uninteresting to some of my readers to know what was
+the weekly allowance the law allowed for slaves, and
+consequently, will insert it:—“Nine pints of corn or beans, or
+eight pints of peas, or wheat or rye flour, or Indian corn flour,
+or nine pints of oatmeal, or eight pints of Cassava flour or
+Farine, or eight pounds of biscuit, or twenty pounds of yams or
+potatoes, or sixteen pounds of eddoes or tanias, or thirty pounds
+of plaintains or bananas; and also one pound and a quarter of
+herrings, shads, mackarel, or other salted provision, or double
+the quantity of fresh fish or other fresh provisions,” all of
+which were to be of good quality. Owners of slaves were not
+allowed to pay them in money, unless there was absolute necessity
+for so doing, under a fine of 20l.; but when circumstances
+obliged them to recompense their slaves by cash, each negro was
+to receive the sum of 4s.[53] weekly, and have two half days
+allowed them to come to market for the purpose of laying it out.
+The clothes allowed slaves for a year were, two jackets of
+woollen cloth, and two pair of trousers, made of Osnaburghs, for
+the men; and two woollen wrappers, and two Osnaburgh petticoats,
+for the women. If preferred by the slave, and agreed to by the
+master, a blanket and a cap were given in place of one suit of
+these clothes. When employed in agricultural work, half an hour
+was allowed for breakfast, and two hours for dinner, and they
+were not to be called to work before five in the morning, nor
+after seven in the evening, unless in crop time, or from evident
+necessity! If any owner of slaves cruelly whipped or imprisoned a
+slave without sufficient support, they were liable to
+imprisonment, or to be fined at the discretion of the justices
+before whom the case was tried; and if they deemed it necessary
+for the further protection of the slave, they could cause such
+slave to be sold at public auction. If any owner of slaves used
+unnecessary severities towards them, or put upon them iron
+collars, chains, or weights, such owner was liable to a fine not
+exceeding 100l. When any slave was attacked by illness, medical
+assistance was to be procured without loss of time; and whatever
+nourishment the doctor ordered, such as wine, &c., was to be
+given, under penalty of 50l. In cases of sudden death among the
+slaves, (when they had not been visited by a medical man
+forty-eight hours before,) notice was to be sent to the coroner
+or justice, when an inquest, of not less than three persons, was
+to be held on the body; should the owner neglect to do this,
+another fine of 100l. was imposed. With regard to the “marriage
+rites” of slaves, if their union can be called so, which was only
+nominal, owners were to encourage them to have only one husband
+or wife; and if faithful to each other, the woman was to receive
+four dollars for her first child, (provided it was alive six
+weeks after its birth,) and five dollars for each succeeding
+child under the same circumstances, and the slave and his wife to
+receive one dollar each at the end of the year. Should their
+master fail to do this, it was punished by a fine of 50l.; while
+the female who, in this state of conjugal fidelity, had borne six
+children, was exempt from any but light work upon her youngest
+child having obtained its seventh year.
+
+Religion appears also to have been encouraged among them; for no
+owner or manager of negroes was to restrain them from attending a
+place of worship on a Sunday, under a penalty of 5l.; and if any
+clergyman refused to baptize a slave which was supposed to be
+sufficiently informed, such clergyman was to forfeit 30s. To
+insure further their comforts, it was ordered that no estate was
+to be without a commodious sick-house, furnished with proper
+conveniences for the use of the sick, and a sufficient number of
+attendants, under direction of a white person, to minister to
+their wants. In omitting to do this, the owner of such estate was
+liable to a penalty of 100l. for the first offence; and 20s. for
+the latter. They were also obliged to return an annual account of
+the births and deaths of their slaves, and how the sick were
+treated, under fine of 100l.
+
+When a female slave proved _enceinte_ of her first child, her
+master was to provide her a house containing two rooms, and not
+compel her to go to the sick-house, under penalty of 20l. During
+pregnancy, they were not to be employed in the general work of
+the estate, but lighter occupation was to be found them; and no
+punishment was to be inflicted but imprisonment. So anxious did
+they appear for the comfort and well-being of their slaves, that
+it was further enacted, that sufficient clothing and provisions
+should be provided for them, even if the estate was in debt; and
+the costs for such articles was to be liquidated before any other
+claim.
+
+A melancholy catastrophe occurred during this year, at Antigua.
+Lord Camelford, then acting as commander of his majesty’s sloop
+“Favourite,” had a private quarrel with Lieutenant Peterson, of
+H. M. S. “Perdrix;” and some very unpleasant recriminations
+passed between the parties. Soon after this, Lord Camelford gave
+Lieutenant Peterson an order, which he unfortunately refused to
+obey, at the same time making use of some disaffected
+expressions; and the consequences were, that Lord Camelford shot
+him. His lordship was tried by a court-martial, and honourably
+acquitted; but he must have carried a blighted conscience with
+him, for—
+
+    “Alas! they had been friends in youth;
+    But whispering tongues can poison truth;
+    And constancy lives in realms above;
+    And life is thorny; and youth is vain:
+    And to be wroth with one we love,
+    Doth work, like madness, in the brain.”
+
+It was this Lord Camelford, who, when travelling through Italy
+some years after, pointed out a spot in one of the fair valleys
+of Savoy, as the place where he wished to be buried; and
+accordingly, his remains were deposited there, amid Nature’s
+loveliest works. The end of Lord Camelford was untimely; he fell
+in a duel, by the hands of Captain Best, a native of Barbados,
+whose ideas of honour obliged him to challenge a professed
+duellist, although he was himself a complete novice in such
+affairs. Captain Best’s first fire, however, took effect, and
+Lord Camelford fell, mortally wounded. The quarrel originated
+with an unfortunate woman, a second Millwood in character; and
+Lord Camelford, who was the aggressor, confessed to his second,
+before the duel took place, _that he knew he was in the wrong,
+but he would not retract words he had once uttered_. It is said
+that Captain Best, the successful duellist, was never a happy man
+afterwards. He met with heavy domestic afflictions; but in his
+last moments he said to a friend, that all his sorrows would have
+appeared trivial, could he have wiped from his recollection all
+traces of that unfortunate duel.
+
+In 1798 sheep-stealing was made a capital crime in Antigua. It
+had been considered so in England since 1740; and the Antiguans
+found it necessary to punish such offence as that statute
+directed. In 1799, an assize of bread was constituted, which was
+intended to prevent bakers from taking undue advantage of the
+public. Many other regulations were agreed to, upon this head,
+such as not allowing any one to sell bread without licence;
+obliging bakers to put a mark upon their bread, and if changing
+such mark without further licence, to forfeit 50l. If such bread
+was imperfectly baked, to be fined as if deficient in weight; if
+damaged flour was used, the bread to be destroyed by a
+magistrate, and a fine imposed upon the baker of 20l.; and if a
+diseased person was employed in the bakehouse, another 20l.
+penalty was enjoined.
+
+In 1800, a law was passed to ascertain the number of negro slaves
+in Antigua; and the total number of births and deaths upon an
+average, for the last three years; when, upon taking the census,
+the number of negroes was found to be 37,000. About this year the
+legislature thought proper to increase the salary of the colonial
+agent to 200l. sterling, considering that the sum appointed for
+his recompence in 1698, namely 100l. sterling, was an
+insufficient compensation for the trouble. The agent at this
+period was the late Anthony Brown, Esq. Several serious accidents
+having occurred during the last few years from the custom of
+throwing about squibs, or other fireworks, it was determined that
+should any one in future, let their sex or quality be what it
+might, offend in this respect, such offender should be fined 40s.
+If any slave made or sold fireworks, they were to suffer such
+correction as the magistrate before whom the complaint was
+brought should deem proper.
+
+Thus ended Mr. Thomson’s public career, after having held the
+government for nearly four years. As before remarked of Mr.
+Thomas, very little can be said about him; for he made St. Kitts
+head-quarters, in opposition to the orders which had been sent
+out by his majesty, to constitute Antigua the residence of the
+commander-in-chief; and did not repair to this island to take
+upon him the administration of the government.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[51] Perhaps it may be scarcely necessary to mention that St
+Christopher’s is as frequently called St Kitt’s as its real name.
+
+[52] This has been known throughout the West Indies as the famous
+“Melioration Act.” This appears to have been the last time the
+general council and assembly for the Leeward Islands met.
+
+[53] A shilling currency is equal to sixpence sterling. It must
+be borne in mind, that all these specified sums are Antigua
+currency.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XII.
+
+
+
+  Governors: The Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington—William
+  Woodley—James Tyson—John Julius—Hugh Elliot—Sir James Leith—
+  Henry Rawlins—S. Rawlins—Major-General Ramsay.
+
+In 1801, the Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington was
+re-appointed to the office of commander-in-chief, to the
+gratification of the Antiguans, who, as before remarked, were so
+pleased with his government in 1771, when he was Sir Ralph Payne.
+Lord Lavington came to Antigua about the latter end of January;
+and soon after his arrival, it was agreed for the country to
+allow him an annuity of 1000l. to be paid quarterly out of the
+public treasury of the island; and a further sum of 300l. to be
+paid in like manner until a government house was built for his
+reception. And that his excellency might better support his
+dignity, another annuity of 700l. was granted him, as long as he
+remained within his government. About this time the practice of
+slaves stealing sugar and retailing it in the markets, or selling
+it to shopkeepers privately, was so general, that it was found
+necessary to lay a duty upon that article when retailed. If any
+person sold less than 100lbs. of sugar without having a licence
+for six months, and the further entering into a bond with one
+security for the sum of 50l., such person was liable to a penalty
+of 50l. for the first offence.
+
+It was this year that slaves were condemned to work in the
+streets, for the first time, as a punishment for offences. If any
+slave was committed to jail for refusing to give their owner’s
+name, they were put to such work until claimed; when convicted of
+a crime less than felony, they were to be kept to hard labour in
+the streets for the space of three months; and if they had been
+sentenced to death, and afterwards pardoned by the governor, his
+excellency could annex to such pardon an order for the guilty
+slaves to work in the streets for any time he thought proper.
+These culprits were made to work in a gang, chained two and two
+together, and, at the close of the day, when their toil was over,
+they were conveyed to the common jail, and closely confined until
+the next morning, when their labours were resumed. When a slave
+was pardoned on condition of working in the street-gang for a
+certain time, their owners were paid a shilling a-day until the
+release of their slave.
+
+Doubts having arisen with regard to the validity of certain laws
+passed during the administration of A. Esdail, J. S. Thomas, and
+R. Thomson, on account of their not repairing to Antigua to take
+upon them the administration of the government, it was found
+necessary to obviate all doubts by framing another law, to
+confirm them, as also all civil and military commissions which
+had been granted during their government.
+
+The treaty of peace which had been signed between France and
+England in 1801 was not of long continuance. During the latter
+end of 1802, the French government began to act in a very
+menacing manner towards England; and from the military and naval
+preparations which were being carried on by Bonaparte, it was
+evident that war was intended. On the 13th of May, 1803, affairs
+were brought to a crisis, by Lord Whitworth, the ambassador at
+the French court, quitting Paris, by order of his sovereign; and
+immediately after, the French ambassador left England, and war
+was declared between the two powers. Notice to this effect was
+directly forwarded to Lord Lavington, by Lord Hobart, (late
+governor of Madras,) who at that period was one of the principal
+secretaries of state; and upon the arrival of the despatches,
+Antigua was put into a state of defence. Not wishing to declare
+martial law in force through the whole island, yet at the same
+time seeing the necessity of part of the militia being on
+service, it was thought proper to ordain, that in future it would
+be lawful for the governor, with the concurrence of the council
+and assembly, to call out a portion of it for the purpose of
+keeping guard, &c., and, by proclamation, requiring the whole
+body to hold themselves in readiness. It was also deemed
+necessary to revive an act, (which had expired upon the treaty of
+peace being signed at Amiens, March 25th, 1802, between England,
+France, Spain, and Holland,) laying a powder-tax upon all vessels
+trading to and from Antigua. Accordingly, all commanders of ships
+were obliged to pay into the hands of the receiver appointed one
+full pound of powder per ton, to the size of the vessel; half in
+cannon, and the other half in pistol powder.
+
+In 1804, Mr. Wilberforce’s annual motion for the abolition of the
+slave trade, which was supported by Mr. Pitt and Mr. Fox, was
+carried by 124 to 46 voices; and a bill presented, limiting the
+period when ships would be allowed to clear out from any English
+port for this inhuman traffic, to October 1st of the same year.
+This bill passed the third reading in the house of commons, but
+was rejected in the house of lords on account of the lateness of
+the session. In Antigua the negro population had decreased 1000
+since the last year.
+
+In the early part of the following year, a French squadron,
+consisting of six sail of the line, and two frigates, contrived
+to elude the vigilance of Lord Nelson’s blockading squadron; and
+leaving Rochefort (France), where they had been hemmed in for the
+last two years, proceeded to the West Indies. After having made a
+descent upon Dominica, and levied a heavy contribution upon the
+inhabitants, obliging the town of Roseau to surrender upon
+certain terms, the squadron proceeded for Antigua. Great were the
+fears of the inhabitants when this intelligence reached them; the
+court of king’s bench and grand sessions were prevented from
+sitting their usual days on account of the alarm; the militia
+were called out, and the whole island put into a posture of
+defence. The French squadron, however, passed Antigua, and landed
+upon Nevis, and after laying the inhabitants under contribution,
+proceeded to St. Kitts, and lightened a little the pockets of the
+Kittifonians. The alarm had scarcely subsided, when news of the
+arrival of the Toulon fleet, under Admiral Villeneuve, in these
+seas, was received. Again Antigua prepared for war; but the
+ferment did not last long; Lord Nelson quickly followed the
+enemy; and upon his arrival at Barbados on the 4th of June, heard
+that Admiral Villeneuve had only reached Martinique. The name of
+this gallant officer so intimidated the French admiral, that he
+immediately quitted the West Indies, and was followed by Lord
+Nelson, who was in hopes of overtaking him, and chastising the
+French for their audacity.
+
+The departure of these squadrons gave the Antiguans a little
+rest, and enabled them to settle their island business. As peace
+was not likely to ensue at present, and knowing how liable they
+were to alarms like the foregoing, the governor, council, and
+assembly ordained, that in future whenever the court of king’s
+bench and grand sessions were prevented from sitting on account
+of the fear of an invasion, it would be lawful for any three or
+more justices, provided three out of the number should be of the
+quorum, to meet at the court-house, and by proclamation, adjourn
+the sessions to a period not less than ten, or longer than
+fourteen days. An act also passed about this time, containing
+sixty-eight clauses, respecting the better regulating the militia
+in these times of danger.
+
+By order of his gracious majesty George III., Lord Lavington
+invested Sir Samuel Hood with the order of the Bath, as some
+reward for his gallant achievements in these seas. Upon this
+occasion his excellency Lord Lavington made a very powerful
+speech, which has been justly praised, but which is too long for
+insertion here. Antigua was visited (1805) by the very clever
+author of “The Chronological History of the West Indies,” Capt.
+Southey. This gentleman mentions seeing a female slave, with an
+iron rivetted round her ankle, which had two bars, sharp at each
+point, crossing each other, and projecting about a foot in four
+directions. Her owner informed Capt. Southey it was to keep her
+at home, which was impossible to do without it. This historian
+alludes to the melioration act, which passed in 1798, prohibiting
+such punishments except, (and, as Mr. Southey justly remarks, the
+exception neutralizes the prohibition) _such as are absolutely
+necessary_.
+
+On the 13th of November, died Mr. John Baxter, the head of the
+methodists in Antigua. Mr. Baxter, who was by trade a shipwright,
+had been sent out from Chatham dock-yard to English Harbour in
+1778, and upon his arrival exerted himself in gathering together
+the little society of methodists which Mr. Gilbert had
+established, but which since his death had been scattered about
+for want of a pastor. A further notice of Mr. Baxter and his
+praiseworthy exertions will be found in another part of the work.
+
+In 1806, the abolition of the slave trade was again brought
+before the English parliament, and considerable progress was made
+towards its accomplishment. A bill was also passed prohibiting
+the exportation of slaves from the British colonies after the
+first of January in the succeeding year. On the 22nd of January,
+1807, the total abolition of the slave trade was accomplished,
+and the bill ordained that no slaves should be landed in any of
+the British colonies after the 1st of March, 1808.
+
+Thus this great work was ended, which had been annually discussed
+since 1787; and Mr. Wilberforce reaped the reward of his labours.
+For two hundred and forty-four years had England allowed this
+blood-stained traffic, and shut her ears to the cries of the
+distressed Africans; but a more glorious era had dawned—liberty
+was exerting her power, and paving the way to the future freedom
+of that despised race.
+
+About the middle of the year died the Right Honourable Ralph Lord
+Lavington, Baron of Lavington, one of his majesty’s most
+honourable privy council, knight companion of the most honourable
+order of the Bath, captain-general and commander-in-chief of his
+majesty’s Leeward Caribbee Islands. His lordship, it is said, was
+a very hospitable man, and very fond of splendour; his Christmas
+balls and routs were upon the highest scale of magnificence; but
+he was a great stickler for etiquette, and a firm upholder of
+difference of rank and _colour_. It is asserted, that he would
+not upon any occasion, receive a letter or parcel from the
+fingers of a black or coloured man, and in order to guard against
+such _horrible defilement_, he had a golden instrument wrought
+something like a pair of sugar tongs, with which he was
+accustomed to hold the presented article. In his household he was
+also very particular. He had, of course, an immense number of
+attendants, but he would not allow any of the black servants to
+wear shoes or stockings, and consequently his ebon footmen used
+to stand behind his carriage as it rolled along, with their naked
+legs shining like pillars of jet, from the butter with which, in
+accordance to his excellency’s orders, they daily rubbed them.
+Lord Lavington entered upon his government the latter end of
+January, 1801, and resided at Antigua, with the exception of a
+short visit to Monserrat, until the day of his death. He died
+regretted by the “magnates of the land:” his tomb may still be
+seen at an estate called Carlisle’s,[54] but the garden in which
+it stands is overgrown with weeds, and the surrounding walls are
+falling to ruins. Were I the possessor of Carlisle’s, this should
+not be the case. If only in respect to the old and noble family
+of the Paynes, Lord Ralph’s last resting-place should not be thus
+dishonoured; a few flowers should shed their sweets around; a few
+trees should shade that old grey tomb. There is a very handsome
+monument erected to his memory in the church of St. John’s, which
+will be further mentioned in the description of that edifice.
+Lord Lavington’s family, on his father’s side, had long been
+resident in St. Christopher’s, where they were of great eminence
+and distinction, having filled some of the highest offices in
+that island. They originally came from Lavington, in the county
+of Wilts, from whence the title, and are said to have been of
+great antiquity, tracing their descent from Ralph de Payne, a
+follower of William the Conqueror, who took his name it is said
+from Payne in Normandy. His lordship’s intimate connexion with
+Antigua is derived from his mother, Alice Carlisle, of a family
+originally from the neighbourhood of Bridgewater, in
+Somersetshire, and whose lineage will be found in the Appendix,
+where it is given from the same source I have derived other
+genealogical information.
+
+After the decease of Lord Lavington, William Woodley, Esq., again
+resumed the reins of government; but he did not repair to
+Antigua, being in a delicate state of health. Sir Alexander
+Cochrane, with a squadron under his command, visited the island
+during this year on his return from taking the Danish West India
+colonies of St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix.
+
+In the month of March, 1809, Wm. Woodley, Esq., the then acting
+commander-in-chief, departed this life; and James Tyson, Esq.,
+represented himself as the first counsellor, and accordingly took
+upon himself the administration of the government, without
+repairing first to Antigua, as he ought to have done.
+
+In 1809, it was found necessary to award certain punishments to
+dealers in witchcraft. Obeah,[55] as it was termed, raged to a
+great extent among the negro population in these islands, and led
+many of them into the deepest crimes. To strike a blow at this
+infatuation, it was ordained, that if any negro pretended they
+had communication with any evil spirit by whose aid they could
+cause death, &c., such slave upon conviction was to suffer
+capital punishment; and if any slave prepared a mixture which was
+intended to cause death, although the poison did not take effect,
+such slave and their accessories were also liable to the same
+punishment.
+
+In the latter part of 1809, John Julius, Esq., another resident
+of St. Kitts, elected himself to the office of
+commander-in-chief, but neither did he repair to Antigua to take
+upon him the administration.
+
+About this period, the Antiguans, out of respect to their late
+respected governor Lord Lavington, agreed to allow his widow,
+Lady Frances Lavington, an annuity of 300l. sterling during her
+life, which was to be paid out of the treasury.
+
+The following year, 1810, Hugh Elliot, Esq., was appointed to the
+government of Antigua and the rest of the Leeward Islands. During
+his administration, it was again ordained, that no medical man
+should practice in this island without a licence; and no licence
+should be granted unless such persons as applied produced a
+certificate from the Surgeons’ Hall, or from one of the
+universities in Great Britain, shewing his admittance in them.
+One reason for this regulation was, on account of the numerous
+cases of poisoning among the negroes; and it was conjectured that
+they procured deleterious drugs from some of the low venders of
+medicines, who, like Shakspeare’s half-starved apothecary—
+
+    “If a man did need a poison
+    ——— would sell it him.”[56]
+
+This wise regulation appears to have emanated from the governor,
+who saw the absurdity, if not _guilt_, of allowing the public to
+place their lives in the hands of the low “self-educated
+physicians,” of whom, in those days, the medical body was pretty
+generally composed.
+
+Nor was this the only salutary step proposed by his excellency
+during his administration. Although, as before mentioned, the
+general assembly of the Leeward Islands had, during a meeting at
+St. Kitts, in 1798, passed the “Melioration Act,” with the hopes
+of restricting the owners of slaves from excessive cruelty in
+their dealings with their negroes. No limits had been put to the
+_number of lashes_ to be given at _one time_, and for _one
+offence_, and accordingly some maliciously disposed persons had
+evaded the law, and treated their slaves in a most barbarous
+manner. The governor had full proof of this soon after his
+arrival, in the case of a member of the council, at Nevis, who,
+setting aside the laws of humanity, had caused “300 lashes of
+cart-whip, or nearly that number, to be inflicted in the public
+market-place (without the sentence of a magistrate) upon a
+considerable proportion of a gang of thirty-two negroes, who were
+all, more or less, severely punished, without having been
+convicted of any act, which, by the most forced construction,
+could be deemed mutinous, or dangerous to the community at
+large.”
+
+In the governor’s communications with the Earl of Liverpool, in
+1810, upon this subject, he alludes to the “Melioration Act,” and
+deplores that the punishment of whipping was not restricted to 39
+lashes, as in the 14th clause of the “Consolidated Act,” passed
+in Jamaica, in 1792; and further proposes, that the clause in
+question should be _immediately annexed_ to the “Leeward Island
+Melioration Act.”
+
+That such was not done upon the passing of the act, cannot be
+laid to the charge of the representatives of Antigua, who fully
+coincided with Mr. Burke, the attorney-general of the Leeward
+Islands, in his proposal that such measure should be adopted, but
+which proposition was not carried into effect by the general
+council and assembly.
+
+In 1812, this suggestion of his excellency’s, limiting the number
+of lashes to be given in the chastisement of a slave, was fully
+carried into effect. The Antiguans had had another example
+brought before them, where a Tortolian slave-master had murdered
+several of his negroes, in a most shocking manner, and cruelly
+ill-treated others; and the Antiguans appear to have been wishful
+of exterminating that plague-spot cruelty from their little
+island! For this reason, they forbad owners, jailors, or any
+other person who had the superintendence of such inflictions, to
+give their slaves _more than 39 lashes_ at one time, and for one
+offence; nor were they to repeat the punishment within 14 days,
+under a penalty of 100l. No slave was to receive more than six
+lashes at one time, for one offence, unless the owner’s attorney,
+manager, or overseer, should be present It is strange, very
+strange, that so many dreadful deeds should have been practised
+in Antigua, and still so many laws been framed for the protection
+of the slaves, even long before the period I am now writing
+about. What answer are we to give to this enigma? Alas! alas! in
+many instances, we must again exclaim with Captain Southey, “_The
+exceptions neutralize the prohibitions_.”
+
+In 1813, his excellency Hugh Elliot left the government, and John
+Julius again entered upon the administration, but he did not
+reside at or visit Antigua. This was the first year a police
+force was established; it consisted of five reputable white men,
+who had been recommended to the commander-in-chief, (or in his
+absence, the president of the island,) assisted by about as many
+discreet black or coloured persons. One of these white men was to
+be called “Clerk of the Police,” and it was his duty to attend
+the sittings of magistrates on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays,
+and summon accused parties and witnesses. These police-officers
+had several duties to perform—such as taking up slaves who were
+found selling any article in the streets, on the working days,
+unless they could produce a pass from their owners; to forbid
+them selling fresh butter or milk, unless in possession of like
+certificate; and to turn out of the town, upon the ringing of the
+church bell at half-past nine at night, all country negroes, and
+oblige such as resided in the capital to retire to their houses.
+
+In the middle of June, 1814, Sir James Leith arrived in Antigua,
+to fulfil the office of captain-general and governor-in-chief
+over the Leeward Caribbee Islands, but he did not remain here
+much longer than a year, for, having suffered from indisposition,
+he obtained leave of absence, and embarked for England, where he
+shortly afterwards died. Nothing of much importance occurred
+during the period Sir James resided in the government. Admiral
+Cochrane was still stationed in these seas, and kept so strict a
+watch upon the enemy, that they were unable to distress this or
+the other islands.
+
+After the departure of Sir James Leith, another resident of St.
+Kitts, Henry Rawlins, Esq., acted as commander-in-chief. During
+his administration, an act was passed, founded upon that
+celebrated one of Lord Ellenborough’s against cutting and
+maiming, punishing with death those who discharged fire-arms with
+intent to injure any one, setting fire to cane pieces or
+buildings, or perpetrating any other malicious deed.
+
+In the year 1814 was signed the treaty of peace between France
+and England, and once more Antigua was freed from her alarms and
+watchings. Henry Rawlins dying, Stedmans Rawlins exercised the
+government in 1816. Neither of these gentlemen, however, resided
+in this island. The yellow fever again made its appearance, and
+carried off a great many persons, particularly among the
+soldiers.
+
+In 1816, the general government of the Leeward Caribbee Islands
+was discontinued, and the Prince Regent, during the unfortunate
+indisposition of his father, appointed Major-General George W.
+Ramsay, governor-in-chief of Antigua, Monserrat, and Barbuda, who
+arrived in Antigua in the middle of the year. Soon after General
+Ramsay’s arrival, it was agreed by the council and assembly to
+allow his excellency 5000l. currency per annum, which was to be
+paid quarterly, from taxes and fines for the deficiency of white
+servants, or duties on retailers of rum; and should these be
+insufficient, from other moneys in the public treasury. It was
+also enacted, that in the event of the death or absence of the
+commander-in-chief, the treasurer should pay to such person, to
+whom the government devolved, the sum of 3000l. currency per
+annum, as long as he remained in command, the better for him to
+support his dignity.
+
+About this period, it was currently reported in the mother
+country, that the West Indian proprietors were in the habit of
+holding _free_ black and coloured persons in slavery; and that,
+from the facilities afforded them by a state of peace, they also
+evaded the slave trade abolition laws, by smuggling negroes into
+these islands. To confute these reports, the Antiguans thought it
+best to introduce a registry of slaves, to be filled up at
+certain periods, with the name, sex, colour, and age of every
+slave, and how they were become possessed of. This registry was
+to be sworn to before a justice of the peace, by the proprietor
+or his representative; and if any person omitted making such
+return of their slaves, they were liable to a penalty of 200l.
+for every slave.
+
+During the temporary absence of his excellency Major-General
+Ramsay, T. Norbury Kerby, Esq., the treasurer of the island, held
+the government. It was thought proper, about this period, (1817,)
+to restrict the existing privilege of exporting slaves, and make
+it punishable to sell or send a slave off the island. If any
+slaves were thus exported, they became forfeited to the king, as
+well as the vessel which was to convey them away, and any
+officers of H.M. Customs could seize such ship and slaves. This
+did not, however, prevent any owner from carrying their domestic
+slaves off the island with them, or from hiring or employing
+their slaves as mariners; but they were to have their name and
+description indorsed on the clearance of the vessel which carried
+them away, under penalty of 100l., to both owner of slave and the
+master of the vessel.
+
+In concluding this chapter, I must be allowed to remark, that,
+let Antigua be what she may, since she has seen her error, she
+has never withheld manumission from her slaves; and, as we have
+just noticed, was the first among the West Indian Islands which
+endeavoured to spare that class the further pang of
+transportation.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[54] This estate belonged to his excellency Lord Lavington, and
+until within this last few years went by his name.
+
+[55] For further particulars respecting Obeah, see Chapter XXXII.
+
+[56] In 1676, a similar law had been brought into force, but from
+some cause had fallen into disuse. The penalty for practising
+without a licence was, at that period, confined to a forfeit of
+5000lbs. of sugar.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+
+  Governors: Sir Benjamin D’Urban—Sir Patrick Ross—Sir Evan
+  Murray McGregor—Mr. Light—Sir W. G. MacBean Colebrooke—Major
+  McPhail—Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy.
+
+After the death of Major General Ramsay in 1819, his gracious
+majesty George III. appointed Sir Benjamin D’Urban to the vacant
+government, who arrived at Antigua in the following year, 1820.
+
+During the administration of Sir Benjamin D’Urban, the census was
+taken, when the population was found to consist of 37,031 souls—
+viz., 4066 coloured, 1980 whites, and 30,985 negroes.
+
+A very efficient militia was also raised, consisting of 15
+staff-officers, 87 commissioned-officers, and 843
+noncommissioned-officers and privates; making in all, 945.
+
+The year 1825 is celebrated for the arrival of the first English
+bishop in the West Indies. During the preceding year, George the
+Fourth appointed, by letters patent, (bearing date 24th July,
+1824,) two bishops for the cure of souls in the British West
+Indies; the one to be styled the Bishop of Jamaica, &c., the
+other, the Bishop of Barbados and the Leeward Islands, having in
+his diocese the islands of Barbados, St. Vincent’s, St. Lucia,
+Grenada, Dominica, Antigua, Monserrat, Nevis, St. Christopher’s,
+and the Virgin Isles—Trinidad and Tobago, with their respective
+dependances.
+
+Upon the arrival of Bishop Coleridge in the West Indies, he
+remained for a short time at Barbados (as head-quarters), and
+then proceeded upon a tour to the respective islands which
+constituted his see. Prior to the appointment of a bishop in
+these colonies, the clergy officiating there were considered
+under the superintendence of the bishop of London; and that
+prelate, as well as the archbishops of Canterbury and York, could
+ordain “any person who should, on examination, be deemed
+qualified for the cure of souls, or officiating in any spiritual
+capacity in his majesty’s colonies, or foreign possessions,
+although such persons might not have possessed the title required
+by the canons of the church of England, of such as are to be made
+ministers.
+
+Alas! how many were ordained, and deemed qualified for the “cure
+of souls,” in the West Indies, who, by precept and practice, led
+their unhappy parishioners further into the power of the _enemy
+of souls_! who, whatever they might preach, _lived_ in open
+violation of the laws of God and man; and who, after indulging in
+the grossest sensuality throughout the six days of the week,
+presumed to enter into the pulpit on a Sunday, and, _pro
+tempore_, descant most learnedly and profoundly upon the
+_beauties of morality_! But enough of such disgracers of the
+sacred office—they have passed away to render an account of their
+stewardship before a holy and a righteous bar; nor should I have
+alluded to them, did I not wish to impress upon the minds of the
+Antiguans the blessing they enjoy in possessing a more
+enlightened and evangelical race of clergymen.
+
+To return to the bishop: a sum of 4200l. sterling per annum is
+placed at his disposal, to be distributed among the several
+ministers, catechists, and schoolmasters, as salaries, &c., with
+the proviso, that no minister shall receive more than 300l.
+sterling per annum, from such fund.
+
+By his patent the bishop ordains, confirms, and performs all
+those several functions peculiar to his office, as one of the
+successors of the apostles. The bishop is made a body corporate;
+has a common seal granted him, and is considered subordinate to
+the archbishop of Canterbury. An ecclesiastical jurisdiction over
+the clergy is also conferred upon him, and on the commissaries by
+him appointed; but such jurisdiction does not interfere with the
+provision of any local law which has received the royal
+confirmation. “In case of the absence of the bishop and his
+commissaries, the governor of Barbados is authorized to appoint
+any two clergymen to institute benefices, and to license
+curates.”
+
+Sir Benj. D’Urban being recalled, Sir Patrick Ross was appointed
+governor and commander-in-chief. His excellency arrived at
+Antigua in the year 1826, and during his stay there, ingratiated
+himself with the _heads of the island_, by his courteous manners,
+and his humane desire to spare their feelings upon the
+all-engrossing topic of approaching emancipation.
+
+The year 1828 will be remembered by many Antiguans, as that in
+which the “Dandy Fever” prevailed. This most distressing and
+painful illness took its name from the strange gestures into
+which its excruciating agonies threw the unfortunate sufferers,
+and who, in their awkward attempts at walking, were likened by
+some facetious spirit to that nondescript race of men—the
+dandies!
+
+The year 1831 was the scene of an insurrection among the negroes.
+The cause of this disaffection among the black population was,
+the suppression of the Sunday markets, and the omission, on the
+part of the authorities of the island, to provide a day instead
+of the Sabbath, in which the negroes might bring the produce of
+their gardens and poultry yards into the capital to sell.
+
+The Sunday markets were indeed a nuisance most properly got rid
+of, for they engendered all kinds of dissipation among the lower
+classes on the Lord’s day; yet is it to be wondered at that the
+negroes felt aggrieved in having the only day they could call
+their own taken from them, as it were, and no other portion of
+the week allotted to them?
+
+From muttered threats, and sullen looks of discontent, the
+negroes proceeded to acts of open violence. Incendiarism raged to
+a great extent; no sooner was one fire extinguished, than another
+was discovered in an opposite quarter. Martial law was in force;
+and the officers of the militia had then ample opportunities of
+shewing forth their valour, and winning laurels in the field of
+Mars.
+
+Great were the marchings and counter-marchings upon this
+occasion; mysterious the signs and counter-signs! Then there was
+such buckling on of spurs, and bracing on of swords—such displays
+of epaulets and aiguillettes, as would have surprised any one not
+accustomed to West Indian militia “turn outs.” Generals galloped
+here, and colonels there; at one moment a party of gallant
+dragoons, armed to the teeth, and mounted—some on gaunt steeds of
+sixteen hands high, and others on diminutive ponies, dashed along
+the streets; at another, the governor and his brilliant staff
+might be seen hurrying forward as fresh intelligence arrived of
+other fires breaking out.
+
+At length something like order was restored. Many of the negroes
+were apprehended; and the supposed ringleader, after being
+brought to trial, was condemned and executed. He met his fate
+with resignation, but protested to the very last that he died
+innocent of the offence (arson) imputed to him; the other
+culprits were punished by public floggings and imprisonments.
+Thus was the insurrection of 1831 quelled, and peace once more
+established. Saturday was appointed for the principal market day;
+and the planters agreed to allow their people to visit the
+capital every, or every other week, to vend their little wares.
+
+In 1832, Sir Evan Murray McGregor was appointed to the government
+of the Leeward Islands, including Dominica. Sir Evan was a member
+of the McGregor family, so celebrated in Scottish history, and of
+which the redoubted Rob Roy was a chieftain. His excellency was a
+man of the strictest political principles, and of a most
+enlightened mind. He saw and felt the degradations laid upon the
+coloured people; and as far as lay in his power he mitigated
+their sufferings. It was not until his administration that
+coloured persons served as jurors.
+
+His kind feelings towards this portion of his majesty’s subjects
+were not altogether agreeable to many of the self-constituted
+“exclusives;” and various were the schemes and projects to turn
+him from his purpose of rewarding the merits of the coloured
+class. But Sir Evan possessed an inflexible spirit, and neither
+frowns nor caresses could prevent him from dispensing justice to
+all, be their colour what it might.
+
+Acting upon these principles, his excellency, in 1834, appointed
+Mr. Loving, a gentleman of colour, chief of police, with a salary
+of 600l. per annum. This dreadful innovation of the governor’s
+met with the strongest resistance from those persons who were led
+to look upon a man’s merit as inseparably connected with his
+white descent; and no efforts were spared upon their part to
+endeavour to persuade Sir Evan to rescind the appointment. This,
+however, was not to be effected, and many a breast burned with
+secret indignation against the man who had dared to throw down
+the partition wall between the _immaculate_ whites, and a
+descendant of Afric’s despised children!
+
+But it was not colour alone that formed the grand objection to
+this gentleman’s appointment. Mr. Loving had been for some time
+the editor of a paper, and in such capacity had raised his voice
+against the system of slavery, and advocated in a firm, but mild
+spirit, the cause of emancipation, in a country where nearly all
+its principal inhabitants were slave-holders. Upon the strength
+of the old adage, “What can’t be _cured_ must be _endured_,” Mr.
+Loving was allowed to remain quietly in his situation, until time
+brought about mighty changes, and made the Antiguan
+slave-holders, like himself, friends to freedom.
+
+The following year, 1833, was noted for the severe shocks of
+earthquake felt at Antigua, as well as at most of the other
+islands throughout the chain. These earthquakes were followed by
+a season of dry weather, which crushed the hopes of the planters,
+and rendered in great measure the fertile little island a barren
+waste.
+
+1834 is celebrated throughout the British West Indies as the year
+of the abolition of slavery, and more particularly by the
+Antiguans, who, laying aside all claims to apprenticeship, gave
+their negroes _immediate freedom_. For this consummation had many
+worthy men toiled and sighed—for this had Sharpe, Clayton,
+Wilberforce, Buxton, Lushington, and many others, written and
+spoken, until wearied nature had often sunk, almost exhausted—and
+now the bright day of liberty had arrived, and the great and
+glorious triumph, which for so many years had been as a beacon
+before the minds of philanthropic men, had been achieved; but
+alas! of those who would have sung jubilee on the fulfilment of
+their wishes, many had yielded up their noble spirits, and passed
+to the silent tomb.
+
+The year following emancipation (1835) was the scene of a violent
+hurricane, which raging with extreme fury throughout the greater
+part of the night, caused great loss to many of the inhabitants.
+Soon after the hurricane, the yellow fever broke out with great
+malignancy, and hurried many a young and gifted one from the
+family circle.
+
+During the period Sir Evan McGregor administered the government,
+he endeavoured to restore the custom of holding a general council
+and assembly, to convene at certain times, at one of the several
+islands within his jurisdiction; and also to make the island of
+Dominica head-quarters. His excellency’s view and wishes upon
+this subject were, however, overruled by the home government;
+although it was permitted him to make Dominica his place of
+residence should such be his desire. Soon after his removal to
+the latter colony, he received the higher appointment of Governor
+of Barbados, to which seat of government he repaired, leaving
+Antigua to a kind of interregnum, which was filled up by the
+president of the island.
+
+During his excellency’s administration, he also recommended the
+legislature to enact a law to govern elections—a deficiency in
+the laws of Antigua complained of by a large portion of the
+inhabitants; the qualifications of voters being entirely governed
+by resolutions of the house, as best suited the purposes of its
+members. In contested elections, freeholders, it is said, were
+frequently left to unconstitutional resolutions of the assembly,
+who, paying no attention to former precedents, adopted such
+measures as would best secure the interests of their own
+party.[57] There are, however, laws for the protective privileges
+of freeholders for other distinctive purposes, such as exemptions
+from arrest, &c.
+
+In 1836, Henry Light, Esq., arrived at Antigua to play his part
+upon the stage of colonial life as lieutenant-governor. His lofty
+pretensions to liberal principles, and his condescending
+greatness to the _mixed blood_ in admitting a few members of that
+class to “his table,” evinces much insincerity, for in his
+private despatches to Lord Glenelg, he reprobates, with but one
+or two exceptions, that body of persons, in terms as ill-founded
+as they are illiberal. Nothing of importance occurred during Mr.
+Light’s sojourn at Antigua; he has subsequently been appointed to
+the government of British Guiana, where he has had an opportunity
+of shewing forth his philanthropy, as well as of acquiring fame.
+
+The year 1837 marked the appointment of Sir William MacBean
+George Colebrooke to the office of governor-in-chief of the
+Leeward Islands. Of the same liberal principles as Sir Evan
+McGregor—firm, dignified, and polished—of courteous demeanour and
+pleasing address, Sir William was formed to command respect, and
+conciliate the affections of all classes. In his official
+proceedings, he was ever actuated by prudence; and with the
+welfare of the colonies, over which he presided, at heart, he
+pursued his way in that open, straightforward manner, which, to
+an honourable mind, is of such inestimable value.
+
+In the first year of Sir William Colebrooke’s administration, a
+bank was established in Antigua by royal charter; thus rendering
+obsolete an act which had been passed in the early part of the
+reign of George III., for preventing the circulation of paper
+bills of credit in the colonies. Prior to this period, no
+governor could assent to such circulation, under forfeiture of
+1000l., the being dismissed his government, and declared
+incapable of holding any other public office or place of trust.
+
+In the following year, his excellency deemed it proper to abolish
+the militia; a measure which saved the treasury of the island a
+considerable sum annually; and accordingly, on the 1st of July,
+1838, that body ceased to exist, and an end was put to all
+martial glory and deeds of arms among the store-keeper captains
+and planter colonels of Antigua. It was not until some time after
+the revocation of the militia, that the legislature remembered to
+call in the arms from the privates; and accordingly, when such
+orders were issued, great defalcation was discovered; the few,
+however, collected, were consigned to a far different purpose
+from what they were originally intended—being formed into a fence
+before the arsenal, where they remain, with their bayonets
+pointing to the skies, as mementos of the warlike acts of the
+island.
+
+Sir William Colebrooke entertained similar opinions as Sir Evan
+McGregor, upon the expediency of there being one general council
+and assembly among the islands under his jurisdiction; and
+consequently, strenuous exertions were made by him, to carry his
+plans into effect. The acquiescence of the home government to
+this measure was so relied upon by his excellency, that before
+accounts could be received from England, despatches were
+forwarded to the other Leeward Islands, calling upon the members
+of their respective legislatures to visit Antigua, in order to
+hold the first general council and assembly. The legislators of
+St. Christopher’s were the first to obey the summons, and some of
+that body were actually in the boat about to convey them on board
+the vessel in which they had taken passage for Antigua, when the
+packet with the European mails was observed in the offing.
+Anxious to receive their letters before their departure for
+another colony, they determined to wait until the post-master
+distributed them—a resolution which saved them a fruitless
+voyage; for, from despatches from Sir William Colebrooke, they
+learned that the English parliament had refused to acknowledge
+any general assembly.
+
+In 1840, Sir W. Colebrooke returned to England; and Major
+McPhail, the lieutenant-governor of Dominica, was called to
+administer the government for the time being. His excellency was
+also a man of liberal principles—one who was inflexible in
+performing his official duties without partiality, and earnestly
+desirous of promoting the public good, and effecting a kind
+feeling among all classes. As a private character, his courteous
+and pleasing demeanour endeared him to all who held communion
+with him; and when he quitted the government, he carried with him
+the best regards and earnest wishes of every member of the
+Antiguan community. Nothing of particular moment occurred during
+his administration, with the exception of the dreadful fire in
+1841, (further noticed in these pages,) and the strictness with
+which the police laws (respecting the capture of animals found
+strolling in the public streets) has been carried into force.
+Great has been “the hue and cry” among the swinish multitude; and
+day after day has the intelligence arrived that another
+unfortunate pig has been imprisoned within the walls of the
+pound, without any regard to the feelings of the said quadruped,
+or its family. Even Sunday—that day of rest—was no rest to them,
+or the parties whose duty it was to capture them; and so far was
+the disturbance carried, which such exploits caused, that some
+good people took the trouble to write and disseminate papers,
+calling upon policemen, magistrates, &c., to observe to keep holy
+the Sabbath, and not allow pigs to be hunted before the very
+doors of the churches and chapels, even when service was being
+performed.
+
+Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy, who has succeeded as
+governor-general of the Leeward Islands, is a branch of a high
+and noble English family. The accounts which have preceded him of
+his many virtues, bids fair for Antigua enjoying, in the person
+of her majesty’s representative, a good and liberal governor—one
+who will dispense justice without regard to caste or complexional
+prejudice—rewarding merit wherever it may be found—measures
+which, it is said, have been overlooked by many of his
+predecessors until within these last few years.
+
+Sir C. A. Fitzroy is lineally descended, in the female line, from
+Brigadier-General Crosby, (who had been appointed to the command
+of the Leeward Island government, in 1730,) as will be seen on a
+reference to his genealogy, in the Appendix.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[57] It must be remarked, that the house passed these resolutions
+after a member had been duly returned upon former precedents, so
+that if the returned member was obnoxious from his liberal
+principles, fresh regulations were determined upon in order to
+dispossess him of his seat. These are the evils incident upon
+having no laws to govern elections.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+
+  My first voyage to Antigua—Visit upon deck—The booby’s welcome—
+  Nearer approach—Harbour of St. John’s—The Black Pilot—North
+  Sandy Island—Wreck of the mail-boat—Dangerous navigation—Long
+  Island—South Sandy Island—Panoramic views from the vessel’s
+  deck—Light winds—Disappointment made pleasing—Anchorage for the
+  night
+
+Having noticed the most important of its historical events, I
+must now be allowed to give some description of the appearance of
+Antigua, and of my first visit to its shores. After a voyage of
+many weeks, early one morning we were agreeably saluted with the
+cry of “land!” Sleep was immediately banished from my eyes, and
+with a beating heart I waited until the day should “pour in
+apace,” and allow me the pleasure of viewing for the first time
+one of those tropical islands I had often thought of with
+delight. A fair wind filled our sails, and we rapidly gained upon
+the distant object, which (when I first peeped up the companion
+ladder) looked like one of those shadowy clouds I had so
+frequently seen resting, as it were, upon the bosom of the ocean,
+at the utmost verge of the horizon.
+
+By this time the sun was fast mounting up the sky, and shone with
+all its fervour upon the glassy waves below; and as we
+noiselessly glided on, the mountains began to assume a distincter
+form, and proved beyond doubt that we were near the end of our
+voyage.
+
+A bustle upon the deck, the trampling of many feet, the rattling
+of ropes, and the sound of strange voices, and a stranger
+dialect, announced the arrival of the pilot; and unable any
+longer to suppress the longing desire I had to behold Antigua
+from a more eligible situation than my peep-hole, I hastily tied
+on my bonnet, and spite of the increasing heat, sought my
+companion upon the deck. Seated upon a hen-coop, which had been
+arrayed in all the glories of bright green paint, I prepared to
+look about me; when suddenly I felt a peculiar sensation, which
+told me, that, like “Achilles,” I was anything but invulnerable
+in my heel. A “booby,” or gannet, an aquatic bird, which had been
+captured the night before, and placed in “durance vile” within
+the self-same coop, was bidding me welcome to her native clime,
+by unceremoniously inserting her bill into that very susceptible
+part; and as I was not stoic enough to receive such favours
+unmoved, she expressed her displeasure by a doleful unharmonious
+scream. “Well,” thought I, “this is not the pleasantest welcome
+possible,” and turning my eyes towards the land, “nor this the
+most interesting looking island in the world.” In fact, it looked
+dull and dreary; its mountains appeared barren and sunburnt; and
+the distance prevented me from seeing the valleys and dingles
+which in some degree redeem it from insipidity.
+
+Our gallant vessel, however, still kept on her way, and—
+
+    “Walk’d the waters like a thing of life;”
+
+and as we approached the land, the scene changed for the better.
+Bright green patches of the sugar-cane appeared amid the brown of
+the foremost mountains; while the more distant of the chain
+presented that harmonious blending of a thousand dyes, which
+poets love to sing, and painters love to study. As it happened to
+be that season of the year when the sugar harvest was in
+progress, the white sails of the various mills glittered in the
+sunbeams, and upon the eminences the manager’s house (or in the
+language of the country, the “great house”) looked down upon its
+little hamlet of negro huts, picturesquely embosomed in trees.
+
+On, on we glided; the merry breeze piping in our ears, and the
+snow-white foam curling and writhing around our prow, until at
+length we came so near that we could see and almost count the
+waves as they dashed upon the silver sands of the surrounding
+bays. In one part a number of tall cocoa-nut trees stretched
+their long arms to the blast, whilst upon every side of us the
+light skiffs of the fishermen danced like cockle-shells upon the
+buoyant waters, and their dusky masters intently pursued their
+trade of entrapping the finny race.
+
+Our good breeze did not desert us; and rapidly and surely we made
+way, until we passed over the bar, and entered the harbour of St.
+John’s. What a busy scene now presented itself to my view; the
+various ships from England, Scotland, Ireland,[58] and America,
+distinguished by their several flags; the boats and droughers[59]
+hurrying backwards and forwards with their loads; whilst the
+hallooing of the sailors, and the screaming of the negro
+watermen, conspired to render it the very imagery of discord.
+
+The town of St. John’s, with its white houses and green
+jalousies, lay stretched before us, surmounted by its neat and
+pretty church; and upon our left the Fort of St. James and Rat
+Island. While looking at the latter, up went a flag, which,
+fluttering in the breeze, announced to the good people of St.
+John’s the arrival of a ship from “_home_” as the Antiguans
+always call England. Several boats now joined us from the shore,
+conveying friends to welcome us to Antigua; a harbour-master, (a
+very agreeable and worthy personage by-the-bye,) to make certain
+inquiries; custom-house officers, (of a superior class of men to
+those who board vessels in the Thames, and are so disagreeably
+distinguished by their undeviating devotion to that herb, which
+Sir Walter Raleigh, in his excessive overflow of human kindness,
+is said to have introduced into England,) to see that if you
+smuggled yourselves on shore, you did not smuggle your goods; and
+plenty of black boys, to grin and chatter, and get all the
+biscuit and beef they could.
+
+But I must not omit to give a more particular account of the
+black pilot. A very pompous personage he was, and one who no
+doubt stood vastly high in his own estimation, as he lent upon
+the rail of the vessel, with his large straw hat, and gigantic
+snuff-box, giving orders to the sailors, and in the interim
+discussing the news of the island. “Hab fine rain last night; you
+bring good _wedder_—(war for you ’tand staring dere for, you
+black nigger ?)—yes, feber berry bad last month, many buckra die—
+(war you go do, run de ship on de shore?)—Crop bery good dis
+year; ship load fast ’nough—(why you no haul dat rope good?)—Yes,
+gubbernor bin bery bad; better now tho’.” And thus he ran on,
+until, the proper place gained, down dropped the ponderous
+anchor, a boat received us, and in a short time landed us “all
+well” upon one of the wharfs of Antigua, amid blacks and whites,
+porters and boatmen, and boys and girls clad “à la Venus.”
+
+The harbour of St. John’s is reckoned one of the finest and most
+commodious in the West Indies. The entrance is defended by Goat
+Hill Fort on the south, and St. James Fort on the north; across
+the mouth of it runs a shoal, known as the bar, which extends
+from a bay called Hog John, to Fort James. The depth of water
+upon this bar is only from seven to fourteen feet; and
+consequently, ships, when they are partly laden, pass over this
+shoal, and take in the remainder of their cargo off Dickenson’s
+Bay. The principal trade of the island is carried on at this
+port, the harbour is generally full of shipping; and during the
+hurricane months, many vessels from the neighbouring islands come
+here for safety. The approach to it is, however, intersected with
+numerous rocks, and about three miles from its mouth lies a small
+island, surrounded by reefs and breakers, to which the name of
+“Sandy Island” has been attached. It was upon these reefs that,
+in 1826, the “Maria” mail boat was wrecked, and, with her hapless
+crew, went to the bottom. She had been down to St. Thomas and the
+other Islands with the mails for England;[60] and upon her
+return, putting into Monserrat, took on board the Wesleyan
+missionaries, and their wives and children, who had been to St.
+Kitts to attend their yearly district meeting, and who were
+desirous of returning to Antigua, the scene of their labours.
+They had left St. Kitts a few days before, in a small vessel
+hired for the purpose; but finding it rather “crank,” they were
+unwilling to proceed, and determined to wait at Monserrat for the
+arrival of the “Maria.”
+
+But who can look into futurity? who can tell what may be in store
+for him? The _crank_ vessel reached Antigua in safety; the mail
+boat and all on board, with the exception of one solitary female,
+perished in the treacherous waters, almost within sight of their
+own homes—within hearing of the church bell. I never pass the
+spot without shuddering, and fancying what must have been the
+feelings of that _one_ who was spared to tell the dreadful tale.
+A woman of lively imagination and affectionate disposition, she
+saw friend after friend washed away by the remorseless waves. The
+pride of manhood!—the shrinking delicacy of woman!—the
+helplessness of infancy!—all of no avail!—a splash—a bubble—and
+all was over, and their bodies filled the maw of some rapacious
+monster, or rested in some coral cave beneath the waters, there
+to remain until that great day, when sea and earth must give up
+their dead. Of the ill-fated voyagers, all who remained were, she
+who was destined to be the sole survivor, her husband, and the
+master of the vessel. Worn out by mental agony, and unavailing
+exertions to attract the notice of the many fishing-boats and
+other vessels which were constantly passing within their sight,
+but which either did not perceive or would not assist them, the
+master of the vessel gave himself up to the dominion of the
+“giant despair,” and losing his hold of the wreck, was quickly
+carried away by the waves. One more victim was required—and that
+was the dearest, the best beloved—her husband died in her arms,
+and after holding him for many a painful minute, and struggling
+for mastery with the billows to retain the much-loved corpse,
+nature became exhausted, and she sank into a state of
+insensibility. In this state she remained until the crew of some
+passing vessel raised an alarm upon their gaining shore. A party
+of gentlemen went in search of the supposed wreck, and finding
+the inanimate female, quickly conveyed her to the main land,
+where every care was lavished upon her, and happily not without
+success.
+
+No one can read the affecting details of the sufferings of this
+unhappy crew (an account of which Mrs. Jones, the name of the
+lady, afterwards published) without feeling deep sorrow at the
+event. At the same time, no one dares to ask “why was it so?” All
+we can allege is,
+
+    “God moves in a mysterious way.”
+
+This melancholy catastrophe was known at St. Kitts as soon as (if
+not before) it was at Antigua: the dead body of a child (one of
+the unfortunate passengers) conveyed the first direful tidings.
+
+Sandy Island is by no means the only sentinel which Nature has
+placed to guard her favourite land from the sudden inroads of the
+enemy, the whole of the north side of Antigua being surrounded by
+rocks and breakers, which make it dangerous navigation. On this
+account ships generally come down the south side of the island,
+although some masters of vessels, from the impulse of a daring
+spirit, or from a want of knowledge, pursue the other course, and
+often have to lament the issue.
+
+On the northern and eastern sides of Antigua a great number of
+small islands are scattered, and it is from some of these that
+the smooth yellowish free-stone, of which the Court-house is
+built, is obtained; this free-stone is proved to be composed of
+carbonate of lime and oxyde of iron. The principal of these
+islands are, Pole-cat Isle, Goat’s Isle, Guana[61] Isle, Maiden’s
+Isle, Cochran’s Isle, and Long Island.
+
+In 1700, Long Island, then the property of the Honourable Edward
+Byam, was sold by him, and it is now in the hands of the
+Honourable Bertie E. Jarvis. Since the Emancipation Act came into
+operation, a great part of it has been let out at an annual rent
+to the negroes, who plant it with provisions. It is noted for a
+peculiar breed of sheep, its rabbit-warrens, and the number of
+sea-side grape trees (_Coccolobo uvifera_) which grow in all
+directions. In former times, there was a mill and sugar works
+upon it, (the ruins of which are still to be seen,) and more than
+a thousand hogsheads of sugar have been known to be shipped from
+thence in one year. This apparent improbability has been thus
+accounted for: large quantities of sugars used to be smuggled
+from Martinique and Guadaloupe, and landed safely and silently
+upon Long Island, which is particularly favourable for such
+adventures. These sugars were afterwards shipped to England as
+the _produce of the island_, by the following evasion of the law.
+It was customary at that period, to swear before one of the
+magistrates, as to the quantity of sugar made and intended to be
+shipped; and the certificate was then taken to the collector of
+her majesty’s customs, who, seeing the signature of the
+magistrate, allowed all was correct. The parties who were
+possessed of this smuggled sugar, and who were wishful of
+transporting it to its destined market, would come before a
+justice and assert that the seven or nine hogsheads which they
+intended shipping on board such vessel were the real growth of
+Long Island; the customary oaths were therefore administered, the
+magistrate signed his name, and the cocket was presented to the
+shippers to hand over to the collector. On the road to the
+custom-house, however, with ready pen they added a _ty_ to the
+seven or nine (or whatever it might be) in the space which was
+cunningly left for that purpose, making it of course _seventy_ or
+_ninety_; and as no questions were asked by the collector, they
+were in this manner enabled, from 100 hogsheads of the actual
+growth of the island, to ship from time to time more than the
+above number of 1000 hogsheads. This practice of evading the law
+(while they soothed their own consciences) gave rise to these
+shipments being called the “T. Y. sugar,” as will be remembered
+by many to this day.
+
+Guiana and Cochran Island also produced sugar at one time; and in
+1725, it was enacted by the legislature, that if the proprietors
+of those islands, as well as Long Island, suffered any loss from
+the inroads of the enemy, they should be reimbursed from the
+public treasury as well as any other inhabitant of Antigua.
+
+Following the line of coast from the north, before we once more
+make the harbour of St. John’s, we meet with, another “guard,” in
+the shape of a small island, bearing direct west from English
+Harbour, with a reef running three miles into the sea, and which
+is known as _South_ Sandy Island. This is also very dangerous to
+unwary mariners, particularly when the storm king rides the
+blast, and “warns the devoted wretch of woe and death.”
+
+But, with all its rocks and breakers, beautiful, very beautiful
+are the scenes which present themselves to your notice, as,
+seated upon the deck of some vessel, whose graceful sails are
+filled with a fresh and favourable breeze, you skirt along the
+sunny shores of lovely little Antigua. It has happened, in some
+of my frequent trips around the island, that, although the breeze
+has been fair, it was so light as scarcely to lift the canvas
+from the mast. But yet, the disappointment of not gaining land so
+soon as we expected has been amply compensated for by the
+beauties we have had more time to discover. Overhead is the
+sweet, clear blue of the sky, here and there dotted with a cloud
+so fair, that it might serve to pillow a sleeping Juno; and
+beneath, the crystal waters sparkling like gold in the beams of
+the blazing sun. In some parts, the green mountains descend to
+the very shore; while in others a calm and silent glen opens upon
+your sight, and the zephyr comes laden to you with the scent of
+its various flowers. Numerous creeks run far inland, and appear
+amid the surrounding verdure like chains of silver; and here and
+there a few negro huts lie nestling among a clump of splendid
+trees, with their neat-looking provision-grounds spread before
+them. As you pass Grace Bay, the land looks sprinkled over with
+gold, from the flowers of the aloe, (_aloe vulgaris_,) which
+grows there in vast profusion; and the shore is bordered with
+sand, on which Amphitrite and her train might love to dance, and
+wreathe their flowery locks with the dropping seaweeds. And thus
+we while away the day, enjoying an ever-changing panorama, until
+the glorious sun reaches the west, and throws his rich beams on
+every cloud which “throngs to pavilion him.” Suddenly he appears
+to touch the bosom of the flaming waves; and then sending forth
+one long vivid line of glory, sinks to rest on his golden couch.
+
+Now comes “still evening” on, and Hesperus and all “the starry
+host” people the heavens, until at length the moon
+
+    “Shews her broad visage in the crimson’d east,”
+
+and robs them of their brightness. And there she paces through
+those azure fields, not with the cold, pale aspect she wears in
+my own severer clime, but with the glow, the fervour, with which,
+in other days, she was wont, as “fabling poets” sing, to visit
+Endymion on the flowery heights of Latmus. Lovely is it, at such
+a time, to lean over the vessel’s side, and watch the limpid
+waves, as they throw up their sparkling foam. All turbulent
+passions die away—a pleasing calm ensues—and then, casting aside
+all heathen folly, and allowing the mind to revel at its will,
+come thoughts, indistinct, but beautiful, and dreamy imaginings
+of that happy land, where
+
+    “The crystaline stream, bursting forth from the throne,
+    Flows on, and for ever will flow;
+    Its waves, as they roll, are with melody rife,
+    And its waters are sparkling with beauty and life,
+    In the land which no mortal may know.”
+
+But earth’s chains are still about us, and the fairest scenes may
+prove the most deadly. A kind voice warns me of the increasing
+cold of the night-breeze; and as the last inch of the cable
+slides through the hawse-hole, and the tremor of the vessel, as
+it is suddenly stopped in its course, shews we have anchored for
+the night, I leave the cool air upon deck for the confinement of
+the cabin, with a prayer of thankfulness upon my lips for my
+frequent safe trips across the “blue waters,” and a hope that
+to-morrow’s dawn will bring us safely to shore.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[58] The Scotch and Irish, in addition to the Union Jack, hoist a
+distinctive national signal.
+
+[59] Droughers are small vessels used for conveying the produce
+of the island from the neighbouring bays to the shipping.
+
+[60] At that period, the mails from the different islands were
+conveyed to St. Thomas’s, in small vessels employed for that
+purpose, from whence they were despatched to England in one of
+her Majesty’s packets.
+
+[61] Formerly called Guiana Island, from the English settlers who
+emigrated thither from Guiana, when that country was surrendered
+to the Dutch by the treaty of Breda. The name is now corrupted to
+Guana.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XV.
+
+
+
+  The extent of Antigua—Opinion of some planters—Want of
+  agricultural labourers—Emigration not always profitable to the
+  negroes—“Seizar’s” letter upon the subject—Return of emigrants—
+  Soil of Antigua—Geological matters—Petrifactions—Climate of
+  Antigua—“Yellow fever”—Beautiful evenings—the appearance of the
+  heavens—Evening visitants.
+
+Antigua, as already shewn in another part of this work, contains
+about 60,000 acres: of which, probably, four-fifths are in a
+state of cultivation. It was the opinion of many planters, soon
+after emancipation, that the mountainous estates must, in great
+measure, be neglected, as the steadiness of the negroes is not
+always to be relied upon; and from the difficulties of the land,
+the plough would be almost useless. These prognostications have
+not been fulfilled—at least, no such instance has ever come under
+my notice; on the contrary, in my rides through the country I
+have seen many spots of land, which once bore only grass or wild
+shrubs, planted with canes, and bearing the title of “a sugar
+estate,” which, I feel assured, had slavery continued, would
+never have been cultivated.
+
+Still agricultural labourers are wanted; many of the negroes that
+were thus employed, while in a state of bondage, think it a
+disgrace to follow such patriarchal occupations now they are
+free. They therefore quit the country, take up the business of a
+mason or a carpenter, or something of the sort; and the result
+is, that not being competent, they are unable to procure work,
+and are idling about the street all day, until some vessel from
+the southern colonies, looking out for emigrants, holds out the
+temptation of _high wages_, which is ignorantly caught at by the
+negro; and he leaves his native island, his wife and children,
+without remorse, until sickness seizes him, and he is returned
+upon the country an emaciated being, unable to work at all.
+
+Emigration is not always profitable to the negro, even if he
+retains his health. Many, many of them, would gladly return, were
+they not bound for a certain number of years by the captains of
+the emigration vessels, (who make a complete trade of it by
+selling their indentures,) or else taken so far up the country as
+too often prohibit such resolve. A clever letter appeared in one
+of the West Indian newspapers some time ago, supposed to have
+been written from a negro at St. Kitts to his friend of the same
+dye, who had emigrated to Demerara, which I will insert for the
+amusement of the reader:—
+
+                                           “Sink Hitts, July ——.
+
+“Deer Pomp Eye,
+
+“You no I tould you how it wood be, but you all ways were a wild
+nagur, and wood neber hear reeson, and lubbed to follow your
+hedstrong ways. But now you are suffering for it, an I hope
+you’ll repent, as good Massa Parson says. You no you had no right
+to run away and leabe you yong pic’nees here to starbe. It was a
+most wicked act, but I ’spose the Capen who took you away will be
+made to support ’em as he ought. You are all no better dan
+Caraline who sent our fren Mushel’s pic’nee widout him knowing at
+all ’bout it, to Jimmy Radder (Demerara), having sold him me
+magin to de Capen. What you say ’bout de Spaniards is all bery
+true, an likely to happen, an me tink wid you our Capens are not
+to be trusted, for you no what our fren Fletcher did for which he
+get hang—how he carry off Nagers from Nevis, and trowed dem in de
+sea and drowned dem. Now me no tink dese Capens will trow de
+Nagurs in de sea, but me tink it bery like dat dey will hab
+private signell wid de Spaniards, who will way lay an take de
+nagurs away at sea—for de Spaniards will gib de Capens two times
+as much for de free Nagurs to make slabes of dem, as de Capens
+can get in Jimmy Radder. I hab seen de skul of Fletcher, for me
+be sumthing of a _free-no-low-gist_ (phrenologist), and I assure
+you de skul of dese Capens hab gist de same _bumps_. And not only
+dis, Massa Pomp Eye, but dere is de law of Englan dat a vessel
+shall carry passengers cording to he size, dat is, so many Nagurs
+to so many tun, now dese Capens do break dis law an dese vessels
+is lible to be seezed and comphiz catted. Dis law was made as me
+told, to make all de peeple cumfurble dat all may hab room to
+walk ’bout an lie down, an sleep, an eat, an go safe, an to
+perwent de Capens from sack wry facing dem passengers, and no
+noting ’bout dere bizness, for see how dey cram de Nagurs in like
+toze in de shu, an only de oder day a vessel ful of Nagurs sprung
+a plank off Mons’ rat an was sinking fast an de Capen noed noting
+at all ’bout it until a noder ship met him an told him he was
+going down and dat all he poor Nagurs wood be drown. Oh! Pomp
+Eye, de Nagurs here be great fool for leabing dis bootiful
+country for sich muddy place as Jimmy Radder. Here dey hab plenty
+of fish from de sea, an dem dere be sich bootiful riber from de
+monting, an sich nice water to drink,—and dere is plenty of wood
+to cut, and dere is salt-fish, an pork, an beef, an all so cheap—
+an here nagurs be sirvalized, an de men an wimmin were cloze
+which dey do not do in Jimmy Radder, an on Sunday dey all go
+church an hab fine tings on. I’m told dat in Jimmy Radder dey
+can’t boil or roast dere plantins widout de wurrums (worms)
+crying and crawling out, an dat derefore dey mash ’em up all
+togedder in de pot an so eat dem. Brutes! Is de nagur of Jimmy
+Radder like our Nagurs? Hab dey any beerds? I heer dey hab scales
+like de fishes from lying in de mud an water, an dat dere
+shoulder bones stick out like de fins of one fish. An dis is de
+reeson our wimmin nagurs go to Jimmy Radder, _for de wimmin
+always lobe de monsters_. Don’t fret you self Massa Pomp Eye
+’bout de dollars for I neber expect ’em. Me no ’tis all de same
+in de end, if you be paid one quarter dollar here for working, an
+on half dollar dere, for de tings for eat an drink are twice as
+deer dere as dey be here, widout being half so good eder. No, no—
+me be content—me no like snakes an wurrum an dose tings you hab
+in Jemmy Radder—me lobe me fader land, an no like _mud_. Here we
+all be Cristan an can reed and rite, an no be naked savages like
+aw you. Your poor yong ones send dere lobe to you—but dey shant
+want bread to eat, as long as your fren Seizer libes.—So good bi,
+an rub you body wid rum to get rid of de hagur, (ague.)
+
+                          “Your fren,
+
+                                                       “Seizar.”
+
+So much for “Massa Seizar’s” letter. I am not aware who is the
+actual writer of it; but the reasoning he puts into “Seizar’s”
+mouth is sound, and by the form in which it is presented may not
+improbably produce more effect than a graver production.
+
+The soil of Antigua is composed of two distinct sorts; the one, a
+rich black mould on a substratum of clay; the other, a stiff
+reddish clay, mixed with sand, upon a substratum of marl. The
+former of these is very productive when not suffering from those
+excessive droughts to which this island is particularly subject;
+but the latter is generally overrun with that species of herbage,
+known as “Devil Grass,” (_Cynodon dactylon_,) which it is almost
+impossible to exterminate. Still, Antigua is one of the most
+fertile of the West India islands, and produces, in proportion, a
+larger crop than most of her sister colonies. The land requires,
+it is true, a quantity of manure, which is one reason for estates
+keeping such large herds of cattle as they do; but with the
+assistance of that, and the blessing of the “o’ercharged clouds,”
+she seldom disappoints the hopes of her planters; while her sugar
+stands as high as any in the English markets, and her _rum_ has
+long been known for its pre-eminent qualities.
+
+The mountains contain beautiful varieties of fossils, and other
+geological curiosities. Among these may be found in the
+south-west chain, masses of trap, breccia, wacke, porphyry, &c.;
+and in the inland parallel chain, splendid specimens of coralline
+schist, agate, jasper, chalcedony, amydoloid, cornelian, and
+silicified wood are to be met with, of which I need only raise my
+eyes to those collected before me to say how beautiful they are.
+These are generally found embedded in a matrix of a deep green
+colour, which of itself is very pretty, and when well arranged in
+buildings with the native free-stone, have a very good effect.
+
+In the northern districts are found fragments of limestone,
+containing fossil shells, spars, and crystals of quartz. This
+chain, running north and south, is supposed to pass under the
+sea, forming a reef, and reappearing at Monserrat: it is said
+that the fish found upon this reef are particularly poisonous.
+
+“Church Hill,” as it is termed, from the fact of the church being
+erected upon it, has been found to be composed of schist,
+enveloped in marl, and is particularly rich in its fossil shells.
+Thanks to the new flight of steps which have been lately erected,
+and the modifications made around that sacred building, (which
+has obliged the workmen to blast the rock,) I have been enabled
+to collect some fine varieties. Among these are conchs, cockles,
+&c., in which the striæ are perfect, and some of them are
+beautifully crystalized.
+
+In almost all parts of the island petrifactions are to be met
+with. Among the most beautiful of those I have seen, may be
+enumerated red cedar, with agate intermixed; roots and branches
+of cocoa-nut trees; plantain stalks, with beautiful lines of
+agate running through them; a species of palm; a root of the
+dagger, (_aloe vulgaris_;) the black mangrove, a branch of a
+tree, supposed to be the ceibar, or silk-cotton, with cornelian;
+besides many other varieties. Ochres of various colours are also
+to be dug in some districts; and in most parts of the island are
+quarries of stone; but they are not generally made an article of
+traffic.
+
+In some parts of the island are salt ponds, which might be worked
+to advantage here as well as at St. Kitts and Turk’s Island; but
+the Antiguans are not of an enterprising spirit; at least, all
+their attention is bestowed upon the cultivation of the
+sugar-cane, and if that succeeds, they are perfectly satisfied.
+Were it otherwise, there are many productions which might prove
+important and beneficial articles of commerce. Tobacco grows
+spontaneously about the country; coffee has become naturalized,
+and grows wild; it is said to be inferior in quality to that
+which grows in the other islands; but would not culture do much
+for it? Cotton, ginger, palma Christi,—all are disregarded; even
+the pimento is left to decay in its loveliness, and its fragrant
+fruit serves but to feed the feathered tribe; except when, at
+Christmas, its odorous boughs are gathered to flavour the
+plum-puddings of the negroes, or decorate the churches and
+houses, as the holly does in England.
+
+Although the islands of the West Indies, being all situated
+between the Tropics, are, as regards climate, very similar, yet
+Antigua is generally reckoned more salubrious than any of the
+others. Possibly, the reason of this may be attributed to the
+dryness of the soil, for we have no rivers, and very few marshes,
+as in many of the other islands, to exhale any degree of
+humidity. The towns are now also kept very clean and wholesome,
+particularly the capital, so that island seldom suffers from any
+pestilential diseases. The “Yellow Fever,” that dreaded scourge
+of the West Indies, has, however, frequently raged here to great
+extent, particularly in former years. In 1793 it was very violent
+in its effects—nearly the whole of the inhabitants of St. John’s
+fell ill with it, and many deaths occurred. It broke out in the
+shipping in the harbour, and was supposed to have been brought
+ashore in a blanket, which had been wrapt round a person who had
+fallen a victim to it. In 1816 it again appeared, but not to such
+extent; but after the hurricane, in 1835, it raged with much
+virulence,—snatched many a young and beloved one from the family
+circle—separated parent and child—severed the holy bands of
+matrimony, and laid its victims in the cold and silent grave.
+
+It was supposed to be occasioned by the different effluvia which
+tainted the air after the gale; particularly that from the filth,
+which had for so many years been accumulating at the bottom of
+the harbour, and which, from the violence of the wind, had been
+completely stirred up.
+
+The warmest months of the year are June, July, and August. The
+sun, when not obscured by the density of the clouds, shines with
+a burning lustre; and did he not
+
+    “——— kind before him send
+    The genial breeze, to mitigate his fire,
+    And breathe refreshment on a fainting world,”
+
+the heat would be insupportable.
+
+The meridian height of the thermometer, during this season, is,
+in the shade, about 80°, and the other parts of the year 70°; but
+I have observed the mercury to be, from the end of June to the
+end of August, from 86° to 90°, and often even higher. The sun is
+vertical at Antigua on the 7th of May and the 5th of August; and
+consequently on those days the inhabitants are ascii at noon.
+
+September, and the two succeeding months, are generally reckoned
+the most unhealthy periods of the year. At one moment, the sun
+darts its rays with an intensity almost insupportable, while the
+sea-breeze (that friend to sufferers from “all-conquering heat”)
+dies away, and a slothful calm prevails; at other times, the sun
+is hidden by black portentous clouds; the air is chilly and
+unwholesome, and rank and noxious vapours are abroad.
+
+The longest day consists of about 13 hours; the shortest about
+ten. In these latitudes, there is scarcely any aurora, or
+twilight, so that it is scarcely light until the sun is up, and
+soon after he sets, it becomes dark.
+
+Suffering as the inhabitants do, from the great heat of the days,
+the delightful evenings are particularly enjoyed. No sooner has
+the sun hidden his rays in the bosom of the ocean, than the
+land-breeze arises; this, blowing as it were from the centre of
+the island, towards the sea, appears to come from all points of
+the compass at once. Evening is the time for walking; and often
+have I seen beautiful faces, and bright eyes, gleaming in the
+moonbeams.
+
+Every author who has written about these “sunburnt isles,” has, I
+think, mentioned the beauties of a West Indian night, and well
+worthy is it to be praised. The sky is of a deeper and more
+lovely blue, almost approximating to violet; and the atmosphere
+is so much clearer than in England, that many stars are visible
+to the naked eye which there require the aid of a telescope. The
+larger planets glitter with a refulgence unknown to more
+temperate latitudes—
+
+    “With purest ray,
+    Sweet Venus shines,”
+
+and appears almost like another moon. Mars rolls on in eternal
+solitude, shewing his broad red face to our wondering gaze.
+Bright-eyed Jove, with his “atmospheric belt,” almost blinds us
+with his lustre; while the galaxy (or milky way) looks like—
+
+    “A circling zone, powder’d with stars;”
+
+thus they glide on in their beauty—
+
+    “Bright wanderers o’er the blue sky free;”
+
+but oh! when our own attendant planet, the “Silver Queen of
+night,” rises in peerless majesty, shedding a flood of glory over
+all the surrounding landscape, the scene is inexpressibly lovely.
+How often, when enjoying her beams, and gazing on her “spotted
+disk,” have I thought of those lines of Mrs. Charlotte Smith—
+
+    “And while I gaze, thy mild and placid light
+    Sheds a soft calm upon my troubled breast;
+    And oft I think, fair planet of the night,
+    That in thy orb the wretched might find rest.”
+
+The stillness and calmness of an English summer’s evening have
+been often and often described by our poets; here, however, no
+quietness is to be met with, but on the contrary all is bustle
+and noise. Sounds of every description fill the air, as soon as
+“evening grey” sets in. Parties of negroes, men, women, and
+children, gather together in groups, worthy the illustrative
+pencil of Cruikshank, to gabble away their _nancy stories_,
+relate their quarrels, or discuss the other business of the day.
+Bats of every size and shape fly backwards and forwards in search
+of their prey, or pay you an unceremonious visit through the open
+_jalousies_ of your houses. Crickets and frogs raise their shrill
+pipes, which grate most unmusically upon the ear; cock-roaches
+(those disgusting pests of the West Indies) crawl over the
+floors, or ceilings of the apartments, or at times take the
+liberty of brushing in your face, or nestling in your hair;
+mosquitoes hum their monotonous song, or insert their proboscis
+into every accessible part of your flesh; while the land crabs
+clatter about, just like an old woman in pattens. The houses are
+lighted up as if for an illumination, the windows are thrown open
+to admit the evening air, and the fair inhabitants amuse
+themselves by playing upon harpsichords, or similar musical
+instruments, “Blue Bells of Scotland,” “Home, Sweet Home,” and
+other popular melodies.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XVI.
+
+
+
+  Scenery of Antigua—Pilgrimage to “Tom Moore’s Spring”—The
+  Goddess Mnemosyne—Fig-Tree Hill—The “Bower of Bliss”—“Old Road”
+  —The Strand—The cross sexton—The parochial school—Old Road
+  Church—Tomb of Col. Williams—Moravian settlement—Salt ponds—
+  Copses—“Crab Hill”—Sandy Valley—The Valley Church—The rising
+  moon—Arrival in town—Night, and night dreams.
+
+With respect to the scenery of Antigua, it is said to be neither
+“grand nor magnificent,” that “its mountains are too much like
+mole-hills,”[62] and in many other ways has it been depreciated;
+yet there are some spots of real beauty, which would strike the
+eye of even a painter or a poet. To see some of these to the
+greatest advantage, I would advise all such readers as have it in
+their power to take a drive or a ride (whichever they prefer)
+some fine morning to “Fig Tree Hill,” and return by “Crab Hill.”
+They will then meet with spots of such transcendent loveliness,
+as will cause the most unpoetic to exclaim, “Beautiful!
+beautiful!” But as some of my readers, perhaps, may never have
+the chance of taking such a tour, in pity to them, I will attempt
+to describe what I saw in my pilgrimage to “Tom Moore’s Spring.”
+
+It was a lovely morning (as most West India mornings are) when we
+started upon our journey. The sun shone bright and clear; indeed,
+far too clear for actual comfort, had we gone as “pilgrims grey,”
+with “scalloped hat,” and “sandled shoon,” and resting on our
+“staves;” but we preferred the less romantic, but more pleasant
+way of taking it quietly in our carriage. Quickly we passed
+through the town of St. John’s, leaving its busy inmates, its
+shops and stores, its “Scotch row” and Scotchmen, and all its
+noise and bustle, for the quietness and freshness of the country.
+Upon gaining “Otto’s Hill,” at the outskirts of the town, I
+looked back upon the beautiful harbour of St. John’s, its blue
+waves just rippling the surface, its barques and brigs, schooners
+and sloops, bowing their heads as if in graceful homage to some
+sea-god from old King Neptune’s court; and its sloping shores
+displaying a carpet of luxuriant green, for a little rain which
+had fallen not long before had clothed the fields in a garb of
+lovely verdure. While thinking upon all these beauties, and the
+images they called up, my poetic fancies were crushed by the
+horrible noise of a long string of “cattle carts” and their sable
+drivers, coming into town with a load of molasses for “Brother
+Jonathan,” or some other worthy. This brought me down from the
+seventh heaven, and made me just then find out that it was very
+_hot_, and the road disagreeably dusty. However, in our
+pilgrimage through life, we meet with many crosses, and many
+_dusty spots_; and therefore, in our pilgrimage to “Tom Moore’s
+Spring,” we could but expect the same.
+
+The country certainly looked very pretty upon this eventful day,
+for every spot was green, and as we passed the numerous estates,
+an air of gladness seemed to be abroad. The breeze blew soft from
+off the mountains we were approaching, and greeted our olfactory
+nerves with the odour of the yellow acacia, which grew along the
+side of the road in vast profusion. In a short time, we reached
+the banks of a small rivulet, the only real stream Antigua can
+boast of, for the few others we passed owed their source more to
+the late rains than anything else. This rivulet was bordered by
+bamboos, and other species of wild cane, while larger trees, in
+many parts, shewed their gnarled roots, and bent their long
+boughs to kiss the swift gliding waters. Various aquatic plants
+grew along its margin, while in the stream itself sported my own
+country’s water-lily, bright nymphæa. Near to the spot stands a
+rural little temple of worship, with its plain white walls, and a
+little cross upon its roof, and across the rivulet is thrown a
+rustic bridge. This is a favourite resort for country
+washerwomen, and as we passed, many of them were busily engaged
+in their very necessary avocations; but as none of them presented
+the appearance of a nymph or a naïad, I will not introduce them
+to my readers.
+
+We had heard of the bad state of the roads before we left our
+home, of the hills we had to mount, and the dingles we had to go
+down; of the terrible ravines on one side, and the bare rocks on
+the other, and of places where the least swerve of the carriage
+would send us over, and then, according to our informant, “it
+would be no use to go look for you.” At every turn of the road,
+then, we looked for some trial, and “screwed up our courage to
+the sticking-point,” that we might be enabled to overcome them;
+but after travelling for some time, and meeting with nothing very
+terrific, we began to console ourselves, and remark, that the
+difficulties appeared to lie in the imagination. At length, we
+came to a pretty steep hill, which we surmounted in due time, and
+again sped on our way joyfully, thinking that all was very fair,
+when lo! up rose before us, if not a _mountain_, at least, a
+_giant hill_. Here would be the “tug of war,” so we called a
+council. “What is to be done?” was the first query. “Why, either
+_go on_ or _go back_” was the answer. The old adage of “out of
+two evils, choose the least,” came into our thoughts. There was
+the hill behind, and the hill before, so we agreed to lay the
+various “for’s” and “against’s” before us in a very orthodox
+manner.
+
+To commence then: if we go on, we must mount this hill, but when
+we have accomplished that, we shall have no other of great
+consequence; we were near half way, so we should have almost as
+far to go back as to go on; on the other side, if we returned, we
+should still have a hill before us, and not have the consolation
+of visiting the celebrated “fig-tree.” Having come to the
+conclusion of our arguments, the word was given “forward,” and
+forward we attempted to go; but there were some of our party
+whose opinions had not been asked, but who, no doubt, felt as
+great concern in the decision as any one else; I mean those very
+noble animals ycleped “horses,” and for reasons my readers may
+easily conceive they appeared resolved not to proceed. After a
+few words of encouragement, however, and a few caresses, they
+agreed to lend us their aid, and once more we started.
+
+During the period that all this momentous business was going on,
+we had totally neglected the appearance of the weather, and had
+not a drop or two of rain fallen, and the sound of a distant clap
+of thunder echoed round us, I dare say we should not have thought
+upon such a subject. Here, then, was romance; a thunder-storm,
+and “Sawcolt Hill”—it only wanted an old castle and a horde of
+banditti to make it a scene worthy the pen of a “Radcliffe.” The
+lambent lightning played for awhile, and the thunder bellowed
+through the boundless sky, and then passed slowly away to the
+west, very much to my satisfaction. “Sawcolt Hill” was ascended,
+and descended, and the road became more beautiful at every turn,
+until at length we stood by the side of the noted freshwater
+spring. And what then were my reflections? I thought it was
+lovely in everything but its name—“Tom Moore’s Spring!” Who, in
+the name of all that’s romantic, could call such a spring by such
+a name? Had it been the “fairy’s spring,” or the “spring of the
+mountain sylph,” or something of the kind, it would have sounded
+as it ought, and some charming legend might have been attached.
+But who could ever inquire after “Tom Moore?” Why, the name of
+such a being puts all fancies to the flight!
+
+Thus far had my thoughts wandered, when suddenly, an ideal form
+passed before me; her sweet and classic countenance—her eyes
+which mocked the heavens in their dye—her long and silken lashes
+which drank the dew of her vermilion cheeks, all conspired to
+render me entranced. A blue mantle floated from her shoulders,
+and a thousand graces hovered round her steps. As she glided
+away, she placed one of her taper fingers upon her ruby lips,
+and, in a voice of liquid sweetness, uttered the word,
+“Remember!” I knew her for the goddess “Mnemosyne,” and I tried
+to follow her behest. My beautiful goddess assisted me, and
+brought to my recollection that “Bulbul of a thousand songs,”
+that sweet rhymer who charms us with his “bower of roses by
+Bendameer’s stream,” as with his melodies of the “Emerald Isle,”
+he who bears the well-known appellation of “Tom Moore.” I
+remembered all this to my shame, and determined in future never
+to utter one word against it, did all the springs in Antigua bear
+that name. After making this resolution, I turned once more to
+inspect “Tom Moore’s Spring.” The water is as clear as crystal,
+and of a refreshing coolness; and as it trickles from beneath the
+roots of a large bamboo growing by, each drop looks like liquid
+pearl. It has never been known to be dry, let the season be what
+it will, and consequently must be of inexpressible value to the
+adjoining estates. It was formerly built round with a stone wall,
+but that has long ago fallen to ruin, and no one has troubled
+himself to erect it again. I blame none, however, upon this
+score, for, in my opinion, it looks more romantic as it is;
+nature has done much for it, and art would only spoil her work.
+
+After leaving the spring, another height presented itself,
+clothed with luxuriant woods. This was “Fig-tree Hill,” and no
+description I have ever heard of it has sufficiently set forth
+its beauty. Upon one side of the road is a deep ravine, whose
+irregular descent is hidden by trees of every description, which
+cover it to the bottom, and again ascend upon the opposite bank,
+until they reach the top of the neighbouring mountain; on the
+other side are sloping hills, carpeted with the gayest emerald.
+This beautiful hill takes its name from several large fig-trees
+which grow around; and from its highest point can be distinctly
+seen, upon a clear day, the four islands of Guadaloupe,
+Monserrat, Nevis, and St. Kitts.
+
+After remaining upon the height for some time, and enjoying the
+extensive prospect, we prepared to descend; but how to describe
+the loveliness of the path, I know not. We alighted and walked
+down, that nothing might escape our observation. Trees of all
+species abound, and—
+
+    “With confessed magnificence deride
+    Our vile attire, and impotence of pride.”
+
+The lofty “red cedar,” the beautiful “white-wood,” the
+glossy-green “loblolly,” the treacherous “manchineel,” which
+invites your approach by its beautiful fruit, while it infects
+you with its poisonous odours; the enormous “ceibar,” (or silk
+cotton,) the native “walnut,” (which in every tree presents such
+varying shades of green,) and the splendid “tamarind,” shade each
+side of the road, and cover the surrounding hills.
+
+In many places, huge masses of fantastic rocks rear their bare
+fronts to the heavens; some taking the form of old castles, with
+their frowning battlements and strong ramparts; and others
+looking as if about to fall into the valleys beneath.
+
+Just at the termination of the first descent is one of the
+sweetest spots in Antigua. It is one of tranquillity and repose.
+The fierce beams of the sun are excluded by the umbrageous
+foliage of the trees, around whose trunks various creepers
+entwine themselves, and throw their slender limbs from one to the
+other of these
+
+    “Green-robed senators of mighty woods,”
+
+forming many beauteous alcoves, carpeted with the lowlier
+flowers; whilst the “purple wreath” hangs its tasseled blossoms
+on all sides, and gives an air of lightness to the whole. A
+little silver stream (one of those the offspring of the balmy
+showers before mentioned) crossed the road in this part; and
+after leaping over roots of trees, or any other slight impediment
+which fell in its way, and thereby causing a thousand translucent
+waterfalls, at length lost itself in the impending woods. Oh! it
+was a lovely scene, and put me very much in mind of Spenser’s
+“Bower of Bliss;” particularly when
+
+    “Was heard a most melodious sound
+    Of all that could delight a curious ear;
+    Such as might not upon terrestrial ground,
+    Save in this paradise, be heard elsewhere.
+    Full hard it was for him, who did it hear,
+    To guess what sort of music this might be;
+    For all that pleasing is to living ear
+    Were there soft mingled in one harmony:
+    Birds, voices, instruments, winds, waters, all agree.”
+
+This was a true delineation; for although most tropical birds are
+devoid of song, the “painted warblers” might here be said to hop
+“from spray to spray.” The pretty little humming-bird fluttered
+among the flowers, extracting from them, with its long and
+slender beak, the liquid honey; and the doves courted each other
+with soft, but melancholy cooing, from many a leafy brake. Upon
+my remarking I never before heard birds _sing_ in the West
+Indies, our negro-servant joined the conversation with—“Oh,
+missis! if you was to come here early in the moring, before the
+sun high, you would hear the birds singing in such a manner, that
+it would make you feel quite dismal all de day.” The first time I
+ever heard of the song of a bird producing such an effect.
+
+But to return to my description of this sweetest of all sweet
+spots. Did we live in “days of yore,” when fairies were wont to
+visit our world, and astonish the benighted swains with their
+glittering processions, we could fancy this one of their
+favourite retreats; but, alas! those harmless goblins have long
+disappeared, and with them all moonlight revels. The negroes,
+however, are determined it shall not be without some aerial
+visitants, so have peopled it with a tribe of _jumbies_, who,
+according to their account, are very different in behaviour and
+appearance to the pretty little elves.
+
+After carving our names upon the trunk of a noble tree, which
+appears to grow out of a rock, we proceeded on our journey
+through the same lovely scenes, which now became interspersed
+with palm-trees, until we entered upon a plain, on one side
+studded over with ruined Carib houses, and on the other, laid out
+in luxuriant cane-pieces, belonging to the Hon. Rowland E.
+Williams, the descendant of a long line of noble ancestors, and
+whose paternal domain extends throughout the lovely scenes I have
+been endeavouring to describe. A few minutes’ drive brought us to
+“Old Road,” so called because it was the first high-road made in
+Antigua.
+
+This town, if town it can be called, is, as regards architective
+arrangement, a perfect nondescript; for streets there are none,
+but here and there a straggling house. There is the _beach_,
+indeed, which may justly be termed “_the strand_;” but, unlike
+that far-famed street in London, boasts no splendid shops—no
+arcades or bazaars, with their “euterpeons”—no brilliant lines of
+lamps, or crowds of well-dressed and busy passengers. A plentiful
+supply of bushes and “rock-stones” (as the Creoles call all
+descriptions of stones) make up for those deficiencies; and the
+murmur of old Father Ocean is the only music heard. Of the houses
+which are to be found, a few of them are in repair; but the
+greater part are falling to ruin, and have become a receptacle
+for hordes of green lizards. One of these buildings struck me as
+rather peculiar in appearance. Nothing remained of it, it is
+true, but the walls of rough masonry, with huge gable-ends
+pointing to the skies; but still it seemed as the work of another
+race of beings. Upon making inquiries about it, an inhabitant
+informed us her grandmother (who had died several years before,
+at the advanced age of 116) remembered it in the same ruinous
+state from her earliest years; but we could learn no further
+particulars.
+
+Our principal object for visiting “Old Road,” was to see a
+tombstone in the church, laid down to the memory of Col. Rowland
+Williams; and consequently, as soon as we arrived, our first
+inquiry was for the person who kept the keys of the church, and
+who acts in the capacity of sexton. While waiting for this
+official, we walked down to the beach. The harbour is a very fine
+one, and forms a complete rotund, except in the opening, where
+the sea stretches out beyond ken. A line of smooth silver sand
+borders the sea, diversified with clumps of mangrove, manchineel,
+and sea-side grapes; while here and there a cocoa-nut tree rears
+aloft its proud head, as if scorning to herd with the lowlier of
+its kind. For some time we amused ourselves with picking up
+various small shells, matted sea-weed, and corallines, which were
+scattered about the beach in profusion; but the heat,
+notwithstanding the fresh sea-breeze, was beginning to be felt
+oppressive; when turning the angle of one of the old buildings, a
+man with a bunch of keys in his hand appeared in sight.
+
+Although not always the case, still very generally, the face is
+the index to the mind; and when I first saw that man, I felt
+prejudiced against him. He came forward with a slovenly gait, and
+downcast looks, and to our inquiries for the keys of the church,
+he returned for answer, “Yes, but I can’t let you in.” On asking
+the reason, the rejoinder was, “Because the parson told me not to
+let any one go into the church.” This was by no means cheering
+news for us; it was far from satisfactory after riding fifteen
+miles, to be turned away without seeing the very object we came
+to look at. Every kind of persuasion was used to induce him to
+comply. I joined in urging him to “ope’ the door, and bid us
+enter,” but alas! I found him as insensible to the voice of
+woman, as to everything else. “Can we go into the churchyard?”
+was then inquired. “Yes,” was the surly answer; and following his
+steps, we soon reached that quiet spot.
+
+Even here he apparently viewed us with suspicion, thinking,
+perhaps, we not only looked capable of _sacrilege_, but of
+carrying away the church also; for although he still had the keys
+in his hand, and the rain began to fall, he not only remained
+inexorable, but looked as if he should be quite as well pleased
+if we quitted the place altogether. “The rain was falling fast,”
+and obliged us to retire to the shelter of a large white-wood
+tree, which no doubt was coeval with the first settlers, and
+beneath its spreading branches we remained for some time, until
+one of our party determined to try some other expedient, to gain
+the wished-for admittance, and for that purpose left myself and
+attendant in our shady retreat.
+
+After the lapse of about a quarter of an hour, a well-known voice
+was heard; and at an opening in the leafy covert, the person it
+proceeded from appeared, accompanied by a female. This was the
+parochial school-mistress; and a kind-hearted creature she
+appeared to be. She immediately sent in search of the cross
+sexton, and promised to take upon herself the responsibility of
+letting our party into the church; but the man was not to be
+found—he had left the town, and carried the keys with him. With
+native politeness, Miss Austin (as the worthy school-mistress was
+called) invited us to rest in her house until she could make
+further inquiries after the “keys;” and following our
+conductress, we shortly arrived at her residence, where (with a
+very warrantable kind of pride) she informed us, her mother was
+born, and married, and had reared eight children. Long before we
+gained the house, the hum of little voices was heard; and upon
+approaching the open door, about forty children, who formed the
+school, rose up, and commenced singing, “We make our obeisance to
+you, ma’am,” to the tune of “L—a—w, Law;” while a parrot,
+suspended from a beam, if she did not _sing_, at least
+_screeched_ in chorus. After looking at these little negroes for
+some time, and inspecting the simple decorations of their
+school-room, we were ushered up stairs, and introduced to Miss
+Austin’s two sisters.
+
+I cannot help speaking more fully of the polite behaviour of this
+trio. I came among them a perfect stranger, my name even being
+unknown, and in all probability never again to meet in this
+world; but every little attention possible was lavished upon me,
+the choicest produce of their garden tendered, and without the
+least parade. I have mixed with society in a far higher grade,
+where courtly manners prevail, and every art is tried to invest
+each action with a polished grace; but often, very often, has
+less native good-breeding, fewer sterling qualities of the mind
+been displayed than I found in the sisters of “Old Road.” They
+are not like the generality of persons in their line of life;
+hospitality indeed is, I believe, a virtue which most of them
+possess; but there was no aping of their betters, as is too
+frequently the case with this class of people; no flying away,
+when we came so suddenly upon them, to put on a brass chain, or a
+string of glass beads; or to take off an untidy wrapper, to
+enrobe themselves in a smart gown; their neat dresses and
+snow-white collars, like beauty, needed not “the foreign aid of
+ornament.”
+
+Many a beautiful tree grew around their humble dwelling, and many
+a sweet-scented flower almost entered the open windows. When we
+had rested for a short time, we proceeded to the garden, to see a
+lime-tree. Knowing as I did the blighted state of these trees in
+Antigua, I expected to see a diminutive shrub; what, then, was my
+surprise, upon entering the little paddock, (for it had more the
+appearance of that than a garden,) to see a noble tree, covering
+the space of about fifty square feet, loaded with its fragrant
+fruit to the very ground. Well worthy was it to be looked at!
+well worthy to be praised by an abler pen than mine!—no
+indefinite article could be used to this shrub; it must be called
+_the_ lime tree, and nothing else. While looking, again and
+again, at this beautiful tree—pressing its odorous leaves, and
+inhaling the scent of its golden fruit, the youngest sister
+remarked, “The archdeacon was here the other day, to catechise
+the children, and upon seeing this tree, said it looked as if the
+blessing of God was upon it.” And in truth it does appear so, for
+it flourishes on in its beauty in the midst of a burning sand,
+whilst most of its species are blighted and seared.
+
+After leaving the lime-tree, we returned to the house and heard
+the children read a chapter in the Bible, and repeat the gospel,
+which they did very correctly, although some of them had not
+numbered their fifth year, thus proving the pains their tutoress
+takes with them; and then, putting up with our disappointment,
+left for home. As we were passing the church, Mr. Sexton appeared
+to have altered his mind in some degree, for (but with a very
+indifferent grace, it must be owned) he condescended to open the
+church door, and allow us entrance. The church, which is composed
+of hewn stone, is built in the form of a cross, and is noted for
+being the first place of public worship erected in Antigua. There
+is nothing very remarkable in the interior; the walls are plain
+white, and the floor paved with brick; but it is a quiet little
+church, where the good people of that neighbourhood may worship
+their God in peace. Over the altar is an old painting of Moses
+and Aaron in their robes; and under the communion table reposes
+the ashes of him who may be called the founder of the church; for
+he gave the land, and liberally contributed towards its erection.
+This was Col. Rowland Williams, who, as before-mentioned, was
+celebrated for his various good qualities, as well as humanity,
+in a period when the West Indies were generally enveloped in
+moral darkness. The epitaph upon his tomb-stone is inscribed in
+Latin; but as many of my readers no doubt prefer the English
+translation, I will insert it, which I am enabled to do through
+the kindness of the Rev. H. G. Hall.
+
+                Here safely lie in Mother Earth
+            The mortal remains of Rowland Williams.
+                   We are but dust and ashes!
+      He was the first male infant of European extraction
+                 Lawfully born in this island.
+       When he attained to manhood, he conducted himself
+                           As a man,
+     Being equally in military, as in civil life, an honour
+           As well to himself, as to his connexions.
+             In the field, he was a bold commander;
+            In the senate, he was a wise councillor:
+              What avails strength without wisdom?
+       He was a loyal subject of his king, a protector of
+                          His country,
+    A true father to his children, hospitable to his guests,
+              A friend to his friends. In a word,
+                 He was all things to all men.
+            Throughout his whole life he displayed,
+            With health of body, soundness of mind.
+       Possessing the strictest honesty and much wealth.
+                He fell a tardy victim to death,
+              Having survived about eighty years.
+          He was buried the twentieth day of ——— 1713.
+             Since it is certain that we must die,
+        We should without delay take warning against it.
+
+Near the altar is an elegant and chastely ornamented white marble
+tablet, erected to the memory of Mrs. Williams, daughter of Sir
+Patrick Ross, K. C. B., and wife of the Hon. Rowland E. Williams,
+the great-great-grandson of the above Col. Williams. This
+exemplary lady died at the early age of 32; respected by all
+classes, and deeply regretted by those who were honoured with her
+friendship. The following lines are engraved on the tablet:—
+
+    “Death, ere thou canst claim another,
+    Fair, and good, and wise as she,
+    Time shall hurl his dart at _thee_.”[63]
+
+After copying these inscriptions, and casting one more glance
+round this rustic church, we returned to our carriage, and
+proceeded on our journey to “Crab Hill.” Before relating the rest
+of our adventures, I must remark, that the line of conduct
+pursued by the sexton of “Old Road” is not common in Antigua,
+such officials being generally very obliging.
+
+Near to “Old Road” is a pond, which is formed by the hand of
+nature into a complete bason. It is surrounded with some fine and
+noble trees, which form a screen, and is embellished with a
+variety of odoriferous flowers, which bloom and die unknown and
+uncared for, illustrating those beautiful lines of Gray’s—
+
+    “Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
+    And waste its sweetness on the desert air.”
+
+Near to this spot is a natural excavation, called the “Devil’s
+Punch Bowl,” which, although I had often heard it spoken of as
+something very grand, did not cause me much pleasure or
+astonishment, being, in fact, nothing more than a deep hole, with
+a little turbid water at the bottom.
+
+About a stone’s throw from “Old Road,” on the top of the hill,
+stands a Moravian settlement, with its neat white house and
+chapel; there is always an air of comfort around these
+settlements, which speaks to an English heart; and the Moravians
+themselves are a quiet, well-meaning people, diligent in the
+discharge of their ministerial duties, and earnestly desiring
+their people’s welfare. May they meet their reward!
+
+After passing the fort of “Old Road,” the next place which
+attracted our notice was the salt ponds, with their fringe of
+mangrove trees and little islands. Innumerable soldier crabs were
+hurrying to and fro,—some looking out for a new coat of mail, in
+the form of a new shell, and others hunting for their prey, which
+is very frequently the weak and small of their own class. The sea
+now burst upon our sight, and added to the beauty of the scene;
+its surface was as smooth and clear as a mirror, except where the
+breakers played over a long reef, which runs far out from shore,
+and threw up their lovely but dangerous spray in measured
+showers,—no wonder the ancients fabled their goddess of beauty to
+have sprung from this sparkling object.
+
+After passing the rectory of St. Mary’s, our road lay through
+copses, whose overhanging boughs formed a beautiful and verdant
+arch. The sunbeams, penetrating through them, danced in sportive
+glee upon the chequered ground, while between the boles we caught
+picturesque glimpses of the ocean. I could not help noticing one
+peculiarity in passing through these woods, that almost every
+tree is decorated with that species of parasite called wild
+pines;[64] the great varieties of cactus was also remarkable.
+
+After journeying along the road for about a mile, we came in view
+of “Crab Hill,” noted for the dangers it presents to travellers,
+should their horses prove restive, or night overtake them. Here
+again we alighted, determined that nothing should escape our
+gaze. The road rises about 180 feet from the sea, in an abrupt
+precipice clothed with the dwarf acacia and “milk-bush”—those
+ever-to-be-found productions of Antigua. A low wall of stones,
+loosely piled, borders the edge of the road, which would prove
+but a sorry guard against any accident. In the steepest part of
+the hill, we looked over, and watched in silence the beautiful
+but treacherous waves, as they laved the rocky base of the
+precipice. Here and there a blasted parasite clung to it, and
+feebly strove to hide its ugliness; and one or two sea-birds sat
+watching for their prey, and pluming their rumpled feathers. At
+the sound of our voices they started, and after turning upon us
+their bright quick eyes for a moment, as if to ask why we
+obtruded upon their solitude, flapped their wings and soared
+screaming away through the vaulted ether.
+
+We enjoyed the scene for some time longer, and then remembering
+we were still many miles from the capital, and the sun had almost
+completed his daily journey, we resumed our seats and set our
+faces towards home. A ride of a few more minutes brought us to a
+place called “Sandy Valley,” which proved not to be, like some
+places, a _misnomer_, for there is sand enough for any one’s
+taste, and fine glittering sand it is too. The sea bounds one
+side of the valley, and a stagnant marsh the other.
+
+Leaving this, we passed by the valley church and school,
+cultivated cane-pieces and neat-looking “great houses,” negro
+huts and provision grounds, and an open country, for we were
+rapidly leaving the mountains behind us. On our right, we passed
+a methodist settlement, and another belonging to the Moravians,
+and hard by a fresh-water spring; but I began to feel very tired,
+and consequently did not find out beauties which otherwise might
+have attracted my attention. A pretty sloping hill lay before us,
+and as we passed, the “full-orb’d moon” rose above it, and
+
+    “O’er the night her silver mantle threw.”
+
+A sudden turn in the road placed her lovely face behind us, and
+languidly reclining in a snug corner, I mused in silence upon the
+beautiful scenes I had passed through in our pilgrimage, until
+roused by a bustle in the road, just at the entrance of the
+capital, where men and boys, long poles and ropes, and that very
+respectable quadruped, dignified by Antiguans with cognomination
+of “a cattle,” formed the _figurantes_. The poor creature had
+been landed from an American vessel that morning, at a
+neighbouring bay, and exhausted, I suppose, with the discomfits
+of its voyage, had fallen down on its way to the butcher’s. I
+don’t think its sufferings were of long continuance, for the next
+morning I heard the black bellman announcing to the public, that
+“A fine fat ’merican ox was slaughtered at the shambles of
+‘Seizar’ James.”[65]
+
+But to conclude our adventures; we rapidly passed through the
+grass-market and the town, heard the jingle of many a piano and
+the squeak of many a flute, (I mean no disparagement to the
+performers,) almost ran over a pig or two, who, spite of a late
+prohibition, were walking out to enjoy the cool of the evening;
+and at length safely alighted at our residence in “Spring
+Gardens.”
+
+In the course of an hour or two, I willingly resigned myself to
+the dominion of sleep, and dreamt of mountains and
+thunder-storms, springs and fairies, precipices and lime-trees.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[62] “The highest mountains are not more than 1500 feet above the
+level of the sea.”
+
+[63] The above lines are taken from an epitaph written upon the
+Dowager Countess of Pembroke, sister to the celebrated Sir Philip
+Sidney one of the favourite courtiers of Queen Elizabeth, and
+author of a romance entitled “Arcadia,” which he dedicated to his
+sister the Countess. On this account it is frequently called “the
+Countess of Pembroke’s Arcadia.” This lady was noted for her
+great learning, in an age when classical knowledge was the common
+accomplishments of the court ladies. Her principal work was a
+translation of “Antonius,” a French tragedy.
+
+    “Underneath this marble hearse,
+    Lies the subject of all verse.
+    Sidney’s sister, Pembroke’s mother.
+    Death, ere thou hast kill’d another,
+    Fair, and learn’d, and good as she,
+    Time shall throw a dart at thee.”
+
+[64] There is one great peculiarity in this plant which deserves
+notice. The leaves are cellular, and so formed as to make sure
+reservoirs for the drops of rain, which fall into them from the
+top, through small openings. The seeds are furnished with a downy
+substance, by which means they float through the air, and take
+root upon any part of a tree or shrub upon which they chance to
+fall. The leaves always grow erect, by which means they safely
+hold the rain water. Dampier mentions piercing these plants with
+his knife, and catching the water in his hat when suffering from
+thirst.
+
+[65] It may be proper to note, that such events are not of
+everyday occurrence in Antigua. Not more than two “cattle” are
+slaughtered in the capital in a week, and when such deed is
+committed the bellman announces it to the public.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XVII.
+
+
+
+  The seasons at Antigua—Heavy rains—Long droughts—The
+  water-merchant—A fortunate shower—Drought in 1837—Desolate
+  appearance of the country—Famishing cattle—Definition of “_fine
+  rains_”—Anecdote—Heavy shower—Joy—Earthquakes—1835—Meteors—
+  Dressing for the ball—The alarm—The ball-room—Hurricanes—
+  Devastations.
+
+The seasons at Antigua may be divided into the _wet_ and _dry_.
+The wet season generally commences in July, and continues, with
+intermissions, until October; and in February we look for it
+again. The rains in England are but summer dews, comparatively
+speaking, to the torrents which the overcharged clouds pour down
+upon these “Isles of the West.” No one but an actual observer can
+form any idea of the violence of these storms. In a moment the
+streets are inundated, and the falling of the large drops upon
+the shingled roofs of the houses is quite deafening.
+
+But at the same time these rains constitute the Antiguan’s
+greatest blessing, for not only do they revive the parched and
+thirsty earth, cool the atmosphere, promote the growth of the
+sugar cane, and dress nature in her loveliest garb; but from
+having (as before mentioned) only two or three fresh-water
+springs in the island, and those far inland, their chief supplies
+of that necessary fluid are derived from these showers. Large
+cisterns are dug and carefully lined with some kind of plaster,
+either terrace, brought from Monserrat or St. Christopher’s, or
+Roman cement, to contain it; and as rain water has the property
+of purifying itself, it is generally translucent and wholesome.
+
+Antigua has, however, at various times, suffered long and
+dreadfully from drought. In 1779, the long want of rain was
+painfully felt; and in 1789 it occurred again, but with redoubled
+severity. Famine, it was supposed, would be the result. As many
+as five thousand head of horned cattle are said to have died; and
+men and women fell down in the streets from exhaustion. I have
+felt what it is to suffer from this cause in a small degree; the
+water we have been obliged to drink when the cisterns were dried
+up was nauseous in the extreme—only stern necessity would have
+induced persons to partake of it.
+
+Sometimes, when nearly all the ponds in the island are dry, (as
+was the case in 1833,) it becomes necessary to despatch vessels
+to the nearest islands for a supply of water. This season of
+general distress proves, at times, a rich harvest to those
+adventurers who possess, or can hire, a small vessel, and load it
+with water, for which they charge very high.
+
+A circumstance occurred in the above-mentioned year, in relation
+to this practice, which it may be worth while to relate. During a
+long succession of dry weather, and when there was but very
+little water to be found in Antigua, one of these
+_water-merchants_, if I may be allowed to use that expression,
+went to Monserrat (a small island a few hours’ sail from Antigua)
+for a cargo of this useful beverage. Upon his return he asked an
+extravagant price for it; the poor people murmured; but what was
+to be done? Water must be had; and in the end the hard-earned
+wages of many a one found their way into the pockets of this
+“Aquarius.”
+
+Finding his profits so great this time, and the dry weather
+continuing, he determined to make another trip, and if possible,
+add a little more of the “Honey of Hybla” to his stock. He
+arrived at Antigua with his elementary cargo in the evening, and
+immediately commenced his traffic. But in this instance he
+outwitted himself; for raising his demands as the necessity of
+water appeared the greater, the people were unable to comply, and
+determined to wait until morning, in hopes of procuring some at a
+cheaper rate.
+
+In the meantime the clouds began to darken, and appeared to rest
+upon the top of the mountains. The wind whistled mournfully among
+the trees—the air became chill—the mercury fell, and in a few
+moments the windows of heaven were opened, and the long-looked
+and wished-for rain descended, not in measured drops, “soft and
+slow,” but in torrents. Now was the season of exultation; every
+vessel capable of containing fluids was put in requisition, and
+the mortified _water-merchant_ was obliged to get rid of his
+cargo the best way he could. Near to our residence is a kennel,
+which in dry weather is totally devoid of moisture, but during
+these heavy rains it becomes a small rivulet. To this stream then
+rushed a motley group; men, women, and children, dogs and poultry
+—all participating in the general joy; even the swinish multitude
+grunted forth their approbation, and ran to lave their snouts in
+its cool waters.
+
+It was laughable to see the little black children as they
+scampered about, shaking their hands, and screaming with delight
+as they enjoyed their natural “shower bath,” which proved a more
+effective one than even Mrs. O’Flinn’s. Talking of “shower baths”
+brings to my recollection an anecdote related of a late merchant
+of St. John’s.
+
+Mr. B———, the merchant in question, had been for some time
+suffering from indisposition, and his medical attendant advised
+him to try the renovating influence of a shower-bath.
+Accordingly, such a machine was duly procured, and the next
+morning put into requisition. In the course of the day the
+physician called to ascertain the state of his patient after his
+ablution, and with winning voice, inquired how he liked his
+“shower-bath.” “Oh, doctor!” replied the sick man, with rueful
+look and lengthened visage, “I verily thought I should have
+fainted, the shock was so great.” “Indeed,” said Dr. M———, in his
+usual bland manner, “I am sorry it had such an effect; why did
+you not follow the Irishman’s plan, and take your umbrella?” The
+next forenoon brought with it the customary medical visitor, who
+again inquired into the merits of the bath. “Why,” quoth the
+invalid, “I cannot say the shock was so great, but I do not think
+I shall derive any benefit from it; in fact, only my feet
+received a wetting this time, for I followed your advice _and
+carried my umbrella!_”
+
+But to return to the subject of droughts. Severe as the drought
+was in 1833, it was nothing compared to what we suffered in 1837,
+from the same cause; and, indeed, for the greater part of the
+preceding year. The old people remarked that they never
+remembered its being so dry since 1789, (which was particularly
+distinguished as “the year of the drought.”) What miseries the
+Antiguans then suffered, I am of course from experience unable to
+say; but if they exceeded those endured in that eventful year,
+1837, they must have been terrible indeed.
+
+Almost every pond and cistern in the island was dried up,
+scarcely a blade of grass was to be seen; and when walking over
+pasture land, it crackled beneath the feet as if it had been
+baked. The poor cattle presented a most deplorable appearance,
+wandering about as they did in search of food and water, and
+expressing their urgent wants, by faint, melancholy lowings.
+
+The poorer class of inhabitants, also, felt it very much, obliged
+as they were to drink the spring water, which is but very little
+better than salt. The little fresh water they were able to
+procure occasioned them great labour, for after toiling hard all
+the day, they were obliged to devote the greater part of the
+night to fetching it from distant parts of the islands, carrying
+it in tubs upon their heads.
+
+It was a pitiful sight to see the country, it presented such a
+scene of barrenness. The cane-pieces looked burnt up; nothing was
+to be seen but dry and withered leaves, in place of their
+accustomed rich green; the provision grounds became mere wastes,
+and all agricultural employments were at a stand.
+
+Days and weeks thus rolled on, and still the same blue cloudless
+sky—the same burning sun. Or if a cloud did arise, and skim the
+vast concave, and the hopes of men grew strong, it passed away
+without giving the long-looked-for blessing. Again, and the scene
+changed. Huge dense clouds might be seen, piled one upon another,
+and slowly extending themselves over the sky until they reached
+the zenith; the upper ones looking as if crowned with snowflakes,
+while those nearer the earth were black and heavy like a
+“funereal pall,” and appeared as if about to discharge their
+burdens. “Now we shall have it!” was the cry; “at last, we shall
+have rain!” Delusive hopes! doomed to be overthrown; these again
+passed away, and left no boon.
+
+Every day presented appearances more and more alarming, the
+little supply of water was rapidly diminishing, and men and
+brutes were becoming exhausted by thirst. Days were set apart by
+the legislature for public prayers and fasts, and a sum of money
+granted for the purpose of hiring vessels to go to Monserrat for
+water. This water was sold by the pail, but from being brought
+over in molasses’ casks, it tasted extremely disagreeable.
+
+The late Sir Evan Murray McGregor, then governor of Barbados,
+hearing of the necessities of the Antiguans, (over whom he had
+formerly held sway in the character of commander-in-chief of the
+Leeward Islands,) sent a man-of-war with a cargo of this precious
+element from that island; but under some pretence or the other,
+it was refused by the legislature. The cause of this
+extraordinary line of conduct was said to be this. Sir Evan was
+not generally a favourite governor with the aristocratic party:
+he was a man of strict principles, and one who poised the scales
+of justice with an impartial hand between rich and poor, white
+and coloured. He would not herd with the _great people_—go to
+their houses, eat their corn-fed mutton and turtle, drink their
+_Château Margeau_ and Champagne, and then wink at their
+proceedings, and gloss over their errors, like some of his
+predecessors. Upon this account he was not liked, and when in the
+kindness of his heart he sent the present of water, it was
+refused in a very cold manner. Some of the members of the
+assembly were against this arrangement, and said, for the honour
+of Antigua, that they would rather have lost double the amount
+than it should have been returned.
+
+But to return more particularly to the drought. Not only did the
+inhabitants suffer from want of water to drink, and for general
+use, but the country provisions, such as yams, potatoes, &c.,
+upon which the negroes principally depend, unavoidably failed;
+and as all importations were raised so much in price, the lower
+classes were almost starved.
+
+The planters endured great inconvenience, not only from the
+dryness of the soil, which ruined the sugar-canes, but also from
+having to pay the same number of labourers their regular wages,
+without having anything for them to do, yet at the same time
+being obliged to retain them, lest when the wet season did come,
+and their assistance was really required, they might not be
+procurable.
+
+I heard a circumstance related which occasioned a smile, even in
+this time of distress. A certain good lady of St. John’s sent one
+of her domestics to the sea side for a pail of salt water. It
+happened to be ebb-tide,[66] and upon the servant returning, she
+exclaimed to her mistress, the greatest astonishment being
+depicted upon her countenance, “Why missis, war you tink? It dry
+so till sea himself dry now. War eber we go do, me no no.”
+
+Oh! how anxiously did we watch the barometer day after day, in
+hopes of its indicating rain. The inhabitants of the different
+parts of the island meeting one another, the first question asked
+was, “What weather have you had? do you think we are likely to
+get any rain?”
+
+A proprietor of a large estate in a distant part of the island,
+but who resided in the capital, met one morning a labourer of his
+coming from the country, and of course asked what news there was,
+and how they were coming on. “So, so, massa,” returned the negro—
+“we hab fine rain last night.” “Say you so, my fine fellow?”
+quoth his master, his heart enlarged at the prospect of his canes
+flourishing, “well, here’s a quarter-dollar for you, as a reward
+for your good news.”
+
+In the course of the same day, the manager of the estate arrived
+in town, and upon seeing the proprietor, was congratulated by him
+upon the “fine rains” he had so fortunately experienced in the
+country. “_Fine rains!_” said the manager, in surprise, “do I
+hear you aright, or are you joking? (although I think you’ll find
+it no joke in the end;) we have had no rain at all, and I came
+into town this morning to consult with you upon the subject; for
+from the excessive drought, the canes are all burnt up, the
+cattle dying in all directions, and the labourers themselves are
+dropping down exhausted from want of water.”
+
+The proprietor stormed and raved—that fellow Cato told me you had
+had fine rains last night; and I was so pleased to hear it, that—
+that—I actually gave the black rascal a quarter-dollar for his
+information. “Here, John! go and call that fellow back,” turning
+to a domestic, “and tell him to make haste—do you hear?” In the
+course of a short time Cato returned, rolling up his eyes until
+only the whites (or rather yellows) were visible, holding his
+little flannel cap in one hand, and in the other, what was once
+designated as a _pipe_, and uttering a mysterious noise, which
+was intended as half interrogative, half conciliatory, waited
+until his master, who was puffing and blowing, and looking
+“unutterable things,” should speak.
+
+At length the storm burst—the torrent descended. “How dare you
+tell me such a story this morning, sirrah? How dare you, sir?
+answer me!” “War ’tory, massa,” inquired the self-convicted, but
+waggish negro, the left foot at the same time performing
+countless evolutions, and the flannel cap twirled round the thumb
+with increased velocity. “What story? you arrant rogue! why, the
+story you told me this morning about having fine rains in the
+country.” “Me no tell no ’tory, massa,” retorted the negro,
+determined to stand his master’s ire undaunted, and, like many
+other guilty ones, striving to have the last word. “Me no tell no
+’tory; war for me go tell ’tory? me no ’peak de trute.” “You
+speak the truth, indeed! Here’s the manager, who tells me there
+has been no rain at all, but, on the contrary, that my stock are
+all dying from want of water; and yet you dared to tell me you
+had fine rains last night.” “Yes, massa, and so we _hab fine
+rain_; me tell de trute. An more den dat, de rain _fine so_ till—
+t-i-ll (prolonging the word) me hardly able to see him, he so
+fine!” Both owner and manager found it difficult to maintain
+their gravity at this definition of _fine rains_; while Cato,
+with a grin of self-congratulation at having so adroitly got
+himself out of a bad scrape; and grasping more firmly his
+quarter-dollar, which he imagined to be in some danger, set off
+for his own residence.
+
+“Hope deferred, maketh the heart sick;” and so indeed it was with
+us, when day after day passed, and still no appearance of rain.
+But One, who does not “willingly grieve the children of men,”
+remembered us in our great affliction, and when we least thought
+of it, sent us the needful blessing. I never saw such a fall of
+rain before; and many of the oldest inhabitants said the same
+thing. In about an hour from the time it first commenced, the
+streets were streaming with water; indeed, the one in which we
+reside looked more like a small river than anything else, for not
+a vestige of dry ground appeared.
+
+Report said two or three children were carried into the sea by
+the violence of the stream which rushed through the streets; but
+upon further inquiry, I found, as is generally the case, report
+did not speak truth. It originated from an old woman, seeing some
+chickens (which had been brought to market for sail, with their
+legs tied together) floating down the stream, when she exclaimed,
+“Eh! eh! look de fowl pic’nee;[67] he sure he go get drowned!”
+This travelled, and lost nothing by its peregrinations, until at
+length it became magnified into the loss of several children.
+
+In a very short time, all the ponds and cisterns in the island,
+which for so long a time had been perfectly dry, were filled to
+overflowing, and care and distress gave way to joy and
+thankfulness.
+
+About June, July, and August, Antigua is liable to be visited by
+storms of thunder, and lightning, and earthquakes. The lightning
+in this part of the globe is very vivid; and the thunder bellows
+through the air in terrific peals, every hill and mountain
+reverberating the sound. Often have I seen the lightning playing
+down the spiral branches of the cocoa-nut trees, presenting a
+sublime but awful appearance.
+
+But although these storms are so violent, and consequently so
+harrowing to the feelings, they are nothing in comparison to the
+earthquakes with which we are sometimes visited. Every nerve is
+shaken by these terrible convulsions of nature; the very brute
+creation seem to feel their influence.
+
+In April, 1690, Antigua suffered very severely from this cause.
+Nearly the whole town of St. John’s was destroyed; and the
+sugar-works upon the various plantations in the country almost
+all overthrown. In many parts of the island, the solid earth was
+rent open; rocks were hurled from their places, and the very
+mountains defaced. The line of hills which skirts the harbour
+suffered from the concussion in a remarkable manner: one of them
+was rent completely in twain; and now, after the lapse of so many
+years, presents the appearance of two heights, with a deep dingle
+running between them. Soon after this awful occurrence, two
+comets made their appearance.
+
+The first time I felt an earthquake, I took it to be the approach
+of a heavy carriage; but by the increased, rumbling and tremour
+of the earth, was quickly undeceived. It was but a slight shock,
+however, and I began to think an earthquake was not so dreadful
+as my fancy had depicted it to be.
+
+It was reserved for the year 1833 to prove to me what an
+earthquake really was, and make me fully aware of its terrifying
+powers; and although nearly nine years have rolled by since that
+period, and consequently the remembrance of it has lost some part
+of its vividness, yet the occurrences of that night has left so
+deep an impression upon my mind, that it will never be wholly
+obliterated.
+
+Between eight and nine in the evening, a shock of an earthquake
+was felt; but as it did not continue long, no particular
+attention was paid to it. We had retired to-bed, and were in our
+first sleep, when we were suddenly awakened by that peculiar
+hollow noise which is always the forerunner of one of these
+convulsions. The noise became louder and louder; the earth heaved
+to and fro; the house shook from its very foundation; and books,
+glasses, and other light articles fell from their resting-places.
+This lasted with undiminished force: but a few minutes elapsed
+before another violent shock was felt. In the midst of this, the
+church-bell commenced ringing, and drums beating an alarm, while
+the whole face of the heavens, glowing with a fiery red, soon
+informed us that a conflagration augmented the horrors of the
+night.
+
+There were twenty-one distinct shocks felt between twelve at
+night and five in the morning, but the earth continued in a
+tremour for twenty-four hours afterwards. Thus it was we passed
+through that wearisome night; but when morning broke in the east,
+and the bright sun arose, and chased away the clouds of darkness,
+how many hearts swelled with gratitude towards Him who had so
+mercifully protected us through its dangers.
+
+The fire broke out at an estate called Otto’s, situated in the
+suburbs of St. John’s. It was supposed by many to have been
+occasioned by a meteor striking a wooden building, which
+supposition acquires more credence from the following fact. An
+elderly female, of the name of Moore, who had acquired some
+notoriety from her preaching, both in England (particularly in
+Cateaton street, London) and the West Indies, was sitting up
+late, on the night in question, employed in writing her
+“Memoirs.” She mentions having seen a particular appearance in
+the heavens, which she described as looking like a bright scarf
+of fire gradually gliding down the sky in the direction of the
+estate, until, upon apparently gaining the earth, it vanished.
+
+The attorney of the above-mentioned estate also witnessed a
+similar phenomenon a few weeks afterwards. In this instance, the
+meteor descended upon the branch of a cocoa-nut tree, which grew
+near his house, and set it on fire; and had it not been for the
+courage and activity of a negro who was present, and who
+succeeded in felling the tree, great danger might have resulted
+from it.
+
+Most of the Leeward Islands suffered from earthquakes the same
+night; but at St. Kitts, (about sixty miles to the west of
+Antigua,) they appear to have felt them more severely than in the
+other islands. A ball was held that evening at the Court House,
+and the company were dressing for the occasion when the first
+shock was felt.
+
+Two young ladies, the daughters of a respectable merchant of
+Bassterre, (the capital of St. Kitts,) met with so great a
+fright, that they were obliged to forego paying their court to
+the “dancing muse.” The duties of the toilet were scarcely
+finished, when, as before observed, the earthquake commenced. In
+a moment the ceiling of the apartment was rent, and, as they
+supposed, a heavy fall of rain penetrated through the aperture,
+and extinguished the lights.
+
+The youngest of the ladies, terrified at the concussion, and not
+knowing the extent of their danger, threw herself upon the
+ground, calling loudly for help. The trembling domestics quickly
+came with a lamp, when, horror of horrors! they found the
+delicate white satin in which their young mistress was enrobed,
+completely saturated with _blood_! The other members of the
+family, alarmed by the screams of the servants, assembled in the
+room, and with eagerness inquired where the wound was. This was
+not to be discovered; and, accordingly, another elucidation of
+the mystery was sought for, and no long period elapsed before it
+was found. Their father, as before observed, was a merchant, and
+the attic over the room the young ladies occupied had been
+converted into a temporary wine-store. From the severe shock of
+the earthquake, a cask of port wine got staved; and what had the
+appearance of _blood_, was nothing less than its contents which
+so liberally bedewed the ball-dress of the fair sufferer.
+
+But the first shock did not intimidate many, however, and
+consequently the ball-room was crowded with visitants. “Nods and
+becks, and wreathed smiles,” flew around; innumerable lamps
+illumined the room, but their blaze was eclipsed by the radiance
+emitted from the dark brilliant eyes of the Houris, who, on the
+“light fantastic toe,” glided through the mazes of a quadrille.
+All was joy fulness, and every heart responded to the genial
+influence of the scene, when another shock more violent, and of
+longer continuance, converted this feeling of pleasure into the
+opposite one of woe. Instead of the lively scene described, all
+was now tumult and distress. Some of the ladies fainted, others
+threw themselves upon their knees, while the greater number
+rushed out of the apartment, which now looked hateful to them,
+and hastened to the beach.
+
+Shock followed shock in rapid succession, and the poor
+“Kittefonians” thought their little island was doomed to
+destruction. Nor was it from the quaking of the earth that all
+their terror proceeded; the sea rose so high, and the waves
+rolled in such a tumultuous manner, that an inundation was
+feared. In such a situation the inhabitants were almost paralyzed
+with fear; some went on board the different ships in the harbour,
+while others remained all night upon the beach, exposed to the
+“pitiless pelting” of the storm.
+
+I chanced to visit St. Kitts a short time after this awful
+occurrence. The inhabitants were still trembling from
+apprehension; and upon the slightest motion of the floor, the
+colour fled from the lips of many of the fair sex, and left them
+of a pallid white. I was present, upon one occasion, when a
+gentleman requested a young lady to favour him with a song. “Oh,
+no, sir! you must excuse me,” said she, lengthening her very
+pretty face, and throwing an air of gravity into her countenance;
+“we never sing since the earthquake.” If no other good was
+effected, it had the power of alienating her mind (for a season
+at least) from some of the vanities of the world, if a simple
+song can be called one.
+
+Another dreadful visitation of elementary strife, to which
+Antigua, as well as the other West Indian islands, is liable in
+the months of August, September, and October, are the hurricanes,
+or _tornadoes_. When they come, they are armed with every terror—
+rain, thunder, lightning, and sometimes earthquakes, attend their
+progress. The sea feels their influence, and, by its swelling and
+roaring, expresses it—
+
+    “The waves behind impel the waves before,
+    Wide-rolling, foaming high, they tumble to the shore.”
+
+The years 1670, 1681, 1707, 1740, 1772, 1780, and 1792, are those
+in which the severest hurricanes have occurred at Antigua. The
+hurricane of 1670 was most memorable. It raged with intense
+severity for four hours, and in that short space of time
+destroyed the new town of St. John’s, which had been rebuilt
+since the French invasion, and levelled almost every house with
+the ground. The ships lost in the harbour were the “Robert,” of
+Ireland, William Cocks, master; the “Merchants’ Adventure,” of
+the same place; the “Margaret Pink,” from Tangiers, and another
+large ship called the “Five Islands,” besides several smaller
+vessels which had come there for shelter. A wreck was also driven
+ashore, in which was found the corpse of a boy, some palm oil,
+and elephants’ teeth, supposed to be from Guinea. That of 1707
+was also very severe, being considered one of the most violent
+ever experienced in the Leeward West India Islands, although
+Antigua suffered more than any of the neighbouring colonies. It
+blew down houses and entire sugar-works, tore up the largest
+trees by the roots, and devastated whole fields of sugar-canes;
+indeed, so tremendous was the hurricane, that it caused an almost
+general destruction. The oldest inhabitants of the present day
+unite, however, in saying that they never experienced one so
+awful as that of 1835.
+
+About four in the afternoon it commenced to look very wild,
+although the wind was moderate; the sky was of a deep saffron
+colour, and the sun shone with a fiery red. Between five and six
+in the evening the wind rose, and continued increasing until
+about seven, when the havoc began.
+
+Houses were levelled in an instant with the ground; many of the
+small dwellings were completely lifted from off their slight
+foundations, and carried by the wind to some distance. One old
+woman in particular had a narrow escape of her life. The house in
+which she resided was raised about five feet from the ground by
+the violence of the wind, hurried along with the greatest
+velocity for about the space of twenty feet across the road, and
+then placed in what was once a pond. Luckily, however, for the
+good old dame, the pond had been filled up, or, in all
+probability, her aerial flight would have finished her course of
+existence in this transitory sphere.
+
+The hurricane raged with unabated force until a little before
+nine, tearing up large trees by the roots, and snapping asunder
+others as if they had been twigs; when, suddenly, in a moment,
+the wind dropped. Not a sound was to be heard—not a single breeze
+was abroad: A deep, solemn silence reigned around—a silence which
+harrowed up every feeling of the soul, for it spoke of dire
+mishaps.
+
+This continued for some time, when again the wind returned with
+redoubled fury, as if its strength was recruited by the short
+respite it had gained, and shook the very earth. The hurricane
+raged until the sun got up, and then slowly and sullenly it sank
+to rest; until towards evening, nothing was to be heard but its
+sobs and sighs.
+
+A great many small vessels belonging to Antigua were sunk during
+the gale, and many poor mortals that night found—
+
+    “Their death in the rushing blast,
+    Their grave in the yawning sea.”
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[66] Although in Antigua the tide does not ebb and flow more than
+from six to twelve inches in ordinary instances.
+
+[67] “Pic’nee” is the negro term for children.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+
+
+  Description of the town of St. John’s, the capital of Antigua—
+  Situation—Arrangement of the streets—Hucksters—Houses—Springs—
+  Small shops—Stores of the retail dealers—Grog-shops—Merchants’
+  stores and lumber yards—Definition of lumber—Auction sales—
+  Scotch Row and Scotchmen—Incongruous display of goods—Fire in
+  1797—Ruins—Fire in 1841—Its devastations.
+
+St. John’s, the capital of Antigua, is situated on the west side
+of the island, and contains about 979 houses. It is built upon a
+slight declivity, and commands a beautiful view of the harbour,
+which is one of the prettiest in the West Indies.
+
+The town, which is well arranged, covers a space of about 150
+acres of land; most of the streets are wide and well-kept, and
+intersect each other at right angles—the principal ones running
+in a straight line down to the sea. There is one peculiarity
+attending the construction of these streets, which is, that there
+are no causeways; and consequently, the pedestrian traveller has
+to elbow his way amid trucks and handbarrows, gigs, carriages,
+and horsemen, droves of cattle, or cargoes of mules, just landed
+from other countries, cattle-carts, or moving houses.
+
+At the corners of the different streets are seated hucksters,
+(black or coloured women;)[68] some with their shallow trays,
+containing cakes of all descriptions, parched ground nuts, (the
+_arachis hypogœa_,) sugar-cakes, and other confections, and
+varieties of fruits and vegetables; others have piles of cottons,
+coloured calicoes, bright-tinted handkerchiefs, &c., placed by
+them, or carefully spread along the sides of the most frequented
+streets, to attract the eye of the passer-by. As most of the
+Antiguan houses are raised a few feet from the ground, which
+necessarily requires the use of a step or two, the hucksters are
+very fond of monopolizing such appurtenances; and it is no
+uncommon thing to be obliged to wait until they remove their
+different wares, before you can enter the house, or else take the
+chance of breaking your neck over heaps of potatoes, or come in
+closer contact than is advisable with bottles of ginger-drink, or
+pots and pans of gorgeous colours, from the well-known English
+potteries.
+
+The houses are generally built of wood, painted of a white or
+light stone colour, with bright green _jalousies_, or glass
+windows and green Venetian blinds. The greater number have
+covered galleries running along the sides or fronts of them, in
+which the good people love to assemble in the cool of evening,
+and while away the hours in converse sweet, or scan over the
+island newspapers—two of which issue weekly from respective
+presses, to enlighten the worthy inhabitants as to what is
+passing in their little colony.
+
+Some of these dwellings are very commodious, and make a good
+appearance, particularly when shaded by a few beautiful trees, or
+standing, as many of them do, in a small garden, embellished with
+Flora’s splendid children. But as for following any of the _five
+orders_ in their architectural adornments, that is quite out of
+the question; or at least, it is an order of their own invention
+they prefer, and which may be called the Antiguan.
+
+Within these last few years, a few houses have been erected, with
+low roofs and parapet walls; the usual plan is to have that
+necessary part of the dwelling raised in the fashion of an
+English barn, or an Egyptian pyramid. One peculiarity which
+strikes the eye of a stranger in these dwellings, is the absence
+of chimneys—the kitchens being, in most instances, detached from
+the house; and the heat of the climate, as a matter of course,
+renders all grates or stoves, and their accompanying flues,
+unnecessary.
+
+Since the serious droughts in 1833, springs or wells have been
+dug in various parts of the town, which, although the water is
+brackish, are of great use for many domestic purposes,
+particularly to the lower classes, who do not possess a cistern.
+These springs have been lately modified by having water-engines
+attached to them, and enclosed by a low wall and wooden
+palisadings, painted of a bright sky-colour. Methinks, however,
+that Master Sol will soon spoil their flaunting beauty. It is a
+pity the directors of these improvements did not choose green
+instead of the other colour; for, from the whiteness of the
+streets, and the extreme glare of the sunbeams, we require
+something to relieve and cool the eye; and much as we admire the
+lovely tint of the heavens, light blue palings do not equally
+fascinate our gaze.
+
+In different parts of the town are numbers of small shops, of
+about six or eight feet square, in which varieties of trades are
+carried on. In one may be seen a cobbler—no! I beg their pardon—a
+_cordwainer_; himself shoeless, busily employed in forming, from
+his not very fragrant materials, a pair of creaking high-heeled
+boots, for the use of some black exquisite. A bunch of human hair
+attached to the end of a long stick, and moving with every
+breeze, bespeaks the abode of a barber and hair-dresser; while a
+multiplicity of shreds of cloth, half-finished vests, a goose,
+and other _et ceteras_, with a group of mortals seated _à la
+Turque_, proves beyond doubt that the inmates are of that
+particular class of beings, nine individuals of which are
+required to form one ordinary man. Others, again, of the
+receptacles of trade, are stocked with provisions, such as small
+quantities of salt pork, corn, flour, candles, butter, (of the
+consistence of honey,) a few dried peas, or horse-beans, and any
+other little matters; while some contain _dry goods_, as it is
+customary, in this island, to term all articles of drapery. Small
+as these tenements are, many of them are divided by a lathed
+partition, forming on one side a butcher’s shamble, where an
+array of sheep’s heads, miserable specimens of legs of mutton,
+and saffron-coloured pork, may be met with, which, carnivorous as
+it must be allowed we all are, few like their eyes to dwell upon;
+while, on the other side, gown-pieces, and “blue checks,” with
+other “odds and ends,” claim the frequenters’ attention.
+
+Next to these small shops, come the stores of the retail
+provision dealers, which are upon a larger scale, and of course
+better supplied with goods. Then there are the _grog shops_, as
+they are termed, where to the heterogeneous mass of eatables,
+crockery, and tin-ware, is added the more exciting articles of
+brandy, rum, gin, porter, wine, &c.; and where of an evening,
+amid fumes of every description, (from Yanky cheese to Virginia
+tobacco,) and dim smoky oil lamps, parties of soldiers, sailors,
+dingy-looking blacks, and unfortunate females—ay! and men of
+better rank of life, who ought to blush to be found in such
+places—love to congregate, and barter health and money, for dirty
+goblets of those fiery liquids.
+
+When passing, in an evening, these _store-houses for crime_, they
+forcibly bring to my mind thoughts of Pandemonium. The dusky
+lamps, at one moment sending forth their long flaming tongues,
+the next, only serving to make darkness visible; the crowds of
+negroes, with their gleaming eyes and glittering teeth,
+presenting the appearance of so many attending demons; the groups
+of white soldiers or sailors, looking more pallid in the
+flickering lamp-light, and greedily quaffing the deleterious
+fluid, which, sooner or later, preys upon their very vitals—and
+then the various sounds of cursing and quarrelling, idiotic
+laughter, discordant singing, and incoherent talking, as the
+miserable frequenters arrive at the different stages of
+intoxication,—conspire to render it more like a council-chamber
+of tormented spirits, than the self-chosen place of amusement of
+rational creatures.
+
+The next grade of these places of merchandise are, the merchants’
+stores or warehouses, with their attached lumber-yards. These
+are, in most instances, large, dismal-looking buildings, whose
+unwashed rafters afford safe protection to innumerable spiders of
+every size, or present a desirable spot for the freemasons (the
+ichneumon bee) to erect their clayey dwellings upon. One corner
+of these vast emporiums is latticed off, forming a
+counting-house, decorated with a coat of white, green, or yellow
+paint, and shewing its chequers of red tape, for the purpose of
+sticking orders, letters, or bank-notices for payments, due at
+the Colonial or West India Bank. Here, on a high-legged stool, of
+dingy look, sits the merchant, dressed in his round, white
+jacket, snowy pantaloons, Panama or Paget hat; and, with pen in
+hand, and a pinch of _Lundy-foot_ between his fingers, (to assist
+his ideas, I suppose,) calculates the probabilities of his
+_’specs_, which in other days afforded such golden harvests as to
+give rise to the belief, that the streets in the West Indies were
+paved with doubloons and dollars.
+
+But let it not be imagined that this worthy and numerous class
+employ all their business-hours in calculating their gains and
+losses, poring over the leaves of a dusty ledger, or puzzling
+their brains over their “bank accounts.” Oh! no, no—the Antiguan
+merchants are far too wise for that—many a bowl of “pepper-punch”
+is brewed; many a long cork of approved brand is drawn, and the
+“rosy red” _Vin de Bordeaux_ is poured into the tendered crystal;
+and many a bottle of champagne, or “Tennent’s pale ale,” is
+unwired, uncorked, and its creamy excellence effused for them.
+Nor is the tongue idle; well-seasoned jests and brilliant
+repartees abound; news is discussed, wit flies like arrows, and
+many a rosy face grows more roseate, and many a laughing eye
+becomes dewy before they part.
+
+But I must say something more about the stores—what a scene of
+confusion they present to the unaccustomed eye!—what varied and
+multiplied articles do they display! In one part are hogsheads of
+salt cod, herrings, and other salted fish; bins of Indian corn,
+rice, peas, and salt; flour, tobacco, barrels of blacking, and
+kegs of lard. In another part may be found barrels of beef and
+mess-pork; hogsheads of prime Cumberland hams, kits of ox
+tongues, and barrels of biscuits; sparkling Moselle, hock,
+seltzer-water, and lamp-oil; preserved meats and soups, and kegs
+of crackers; pitch, tar, rosin, and oats; block-tin tureens,
+spirits of turpentine, and Cognac brandy; crates of earthenware,
+rose nails, and hogsheads of tin-ware; with London pickles,
+agricultural implements, and hair-brooms. On another side of the
+store lie huddled together hogsheads of Barclay’s brown stout,
+boxes of soap, bundles of wood-hoops, and cases of gilded
+cornices; boxes of raisins and currants, paving flags, and masts
+and oars; firkins of Cork butter, hogsheads of lime, and patent
+corkscrews; Hyson teas, Durham mustard, loaf-sugar, and Havannah
+cigars; potatoes, onions, Bologna sausage, and blacksmiths’
+coals; artificers’ tools, anti-corrosion paint, currycombs, and
+_gold watches_; the whole wound up with Rowland’s Macassar oil,
+floating soap, and quack medicines, consisting of Morrison’s
+pills, and Swain’s Panacea, which, if we believe the labels, are
+to cure every ill “that flesh is heir to;” while from the ceiling
+dangle in graceful negligence, coils of rope, and horses’
+halters.
+
+To prove to any of my readers who may be sceptical of the truth
+of such a _various_ assemblage of goods, as I have stated the
+merchant’s stores contain, I will give a _correct copy_ of a
+cargo handed about to the different merchants, as brought by an
+American vessel arrived to-day:—
+
+       CARGO ON BOARD BRIG “RANDOLPH,” FROM PHILADELPHIA.
+
+   12 barrels pitch             1 box fine beaver hats
+  118 covered hams            100 boxes cheese
+    2 casks of shoulders        3 doz. Windsor chairs
+   30 barrels pilot bread      16 nurses’ rocking chairs
+   10 do. navy do.              8 ladies’ cane do.
+  30-3 do. sugar biscuits       1 doz. children’s do.
+  20-3 do. soda                49 barrels potatoes
+  20-3 crackers               18¼ gross lucifer matches
+   50 kegs lard                 1 mahogany spring-seat sofa
+   30 blls. mess pork           1 do. wash-stand, marble top
+  100 kegs butter               3 boxes stationery
+   13 boxes lump tobacco        4 backgammon boards
+   20 do. champagne cider      12 bridles
+   20 doz. buckets            22½ doz. black ink in boxes
+   50 boxes soap, 24 lbs.       1 mahogany spring-seat, rocking chair
+  700  do.    16 lbs.           2 wooden arm chairs
+   50 do. mould candles
+   17 do.  do.
+
+        Offers in cash, or negotiable notes, 1 o’clock.
+
+From the store we will take a walk into the lumber yard. But
+before I proceed to describe it, it will be necessary for me to
+make another digression, and let those of my readers who may be
+yet ignorant of the real meaning of the term know what “lumber”
+is. Upon my first acquaintance with West Indians, I was
+particularly surprised to hear them talk so much about _lumber_,
+and of Mr. This and Mr. That dealing in such commodity. As my
+mind has ever been apt to roam far and wide, I no sooner heard
+the merits of this peculiar article (if I may so call it)
+discussed, than my schooldays’ tasks presented themselves to my
+recollection, and I mentally murmured with Dr. Johnson, “lum-ber,
+lumber, old useless furniture.”
+
+Having arrived at this definition, again I fancied myself amid
+broken chairs and tables, sofas minus a leg, shattered
+looking-glasses, musty, dusty, rusty, grates, antique bottles,
+and similar chattels, where in one of my hoyden days I had
+scrambled to look for a bird-cage in which to imprison a poor
+half-fledged skylark, captured for me by a little ragged
+_protégé_ of mine, known by the true English name of “Bill.”
+
+Yet still I was not satisfied; for what, thought I, can West
+Indian merchants find so particularly valuable in all these
+divers specimens of mutilation, as to induce them to deal so
+largely in them? I could only answer mine own query by exclaiming
+“’tis strange! ’tis passing strange!” Time wore on, however, and
+I arrived at Antigua; then my wonder soon ceased, and I found out
+that in fact a _lumber merchant_ signifies nothing less than a
+dealer in _timber_.
+
+Having endeavoured to give the Antiguan definition of lumber, I
+will now proceed to describe “the yard.” It is generally entered
+by passing through the store, at the hazard of putting your foot
+into pools of rosin or varnish, slipping over stray peas, or
+half-breaking your neck over heaps of brickbats. At length the
+yard is gained, and drawing a long breath, as much from heat as
+exercise, I look around. On each side of the door are huge stacks
+of staves, piled up in a very uniform manner, used for making
+hogsheads or tierces for packing sugar, or puncheons for the
+conveyance of rum. In other parts of the yard are bundles of
+cypress or cedar shingles,[69] white and pitch pine boards,
+planks and scantlings, all packed in appropriate order; that is,
+when they are not landing cargoes, and the master has an eye to
+tidy appearances; but if this is not the case, the different
+species of lumber are tumbling about in all directions.
+
+Then there are large sheds erected in various parts of the yard,
+for the purpose of securing “hard-wood” (as mahogany,
+mill-timber, &c.) from the effects of the weather. There is also
+very generally a pigeon-house or two to be met with, and their
+pretty inmates may be seen gliding about, picking up the
+scattered grain, or, perched upon one of the lumber stacks, watch
+your every movement with their bright round eyes, while their
+variegated breasts glitter in the sun-beams like so many gems. At
+the bottom of the yard large gates open to the sea, furnished
+with a huge crane; and here it is that all those incongruous
+articles which fill their stores, and bring wealth to their
+coffers, are landed.
+
+When the merchants are visited by certain fears and twitchings,
+relative to the fact of their not being able to dispose of their
+diversified merchandise, they “call an auction;” and under the
+auspices of the red flag,[70] and with the assistance of the
+auctioneer’s lungs and hammer, instead of harlequin’s magic wand,
+turn all these “creature’s comforts” into pounds, shillings, and
+pence.
+
+In some parts of the town are auction rooms, where, with the same
+laudable zeal for “charming variety,” things as distinct from
+each other as the nadir is from the zenith, are put up, the
+mysterious words “going, going, _gone_” uttered, and finally
+knocked down to the attendants—whites, blacks, and coloured.
+
+Having mentioned the stores of those philanthropists, who, for
+the mere consideration of a little dirty _pelf_, undertake to
+provide so liberally for the inner man, it will be necessary to
+take a look at those temples of fashion, fancy, and fascination,
+commonly known in this island as “Scotch shops,” or in other
+words, Antiguan haberdashery stores.
+
+In a particular part of St. John’s, running north and south, lies
+a well-made broad street, which, from being inhabited principally
+by Scotchmen, is known by the appropriated name of “Scotch Row.”
+Capital stores (when I _am_ at Rome, I like to do as Rome does,
+and give everything its approved title) flank each side of the
+street, and display their glittering wares to the admiration of
+passers-by; and from whence (with but few exceptions) emanate
+those dresses and ribbons of a thousand dyes, with which the
+_fair sex_ of _every colour_ delight to enrobe their lovely
+forms.
+
+Here, as in the merchants’ stores, may be found articles of the
+most opposite natures. In one part lies a delicate white satin
+bonnet, with its bunches of “orange flowers,” to grace the head
+of some blushing bride, or decorated with the snowy plumes torn
+by the swarthy African from some swift-footed ostrich; while by
+its side reposes a broken ewer, or an iron pot.
+
+You may, in truth, buy anything and everything in these “Scotch
+shops,” from three farthings’ worth of tape to the most costly
+articles. Dresses of all kinds; ribbons, laces, flowers, and
+bonnets; coats, vests, pantaloons, umbrellas, and shoes; blondes,
+scarfs, mantelets, perfumery, and _tenpenny nails_; paint,
+frying-pans, and carpets; jewellery of every description,
+dripping-pans, and Seidlitz powders; Epsom salts, ginger-beer,
+and white lead; horses’ halters, cherry-tree chairs, and
+preserved fruits; children’s dresses, lanterns, horse-whips, and
+coffee; sugar-loaves, saddles, bonnet-shapes, and white-handled
+knives; ladies’ corsets, Valenciennes edging, and Westphalia
+hams; pigs’ tongues, truckle cheese, and bird-seed; dish-covers,
+bottle-baskets, hooks-and-eyes, and brimstone; harness, cattle
+medicines, and lozenges; “Mechian” razor strops, and Metcalf’s
+toothbrushes; with brandy, champagne, Madeira, sherry, port,
+sauterne, Rhenish wines, bottled stout, pale ale, glasses to
+drink all these good articles out of, and I know not what
+besides. Loaves of sugar dangling by the side of zephyr scarfs,
+or candle-boxes _vis-à-vis_ with ostrich feathers.
+
+Oh! ye tradesmen of Regent-street, so polite and perfumed, and
+such _calibre_, who stand behind your glossy counters with the
+air of “my lord duke,” or glide with noiseless steps and mincing
+airs over your Persian carpeted floor,—what, _what_ would you
+think of our Antiguan shops? Or how would those over-fashionable
+gentlemen at Storr and Mortimer’s be astounded, when tendering
+for approval to “beauty bright” those costly gems which carry us
+back to the days of the Arabian nights, if they came in contact
+with a brass kettle or an iron pot!
+
+I often wonder how the pale-faced, straight-haired clerks (for
+they are not termed _shopmen_ in this part of the world) manage
+to get on among such a multiplicity of dissimilar articles; or
+that from being asked for so many contrary goods during the day,
+they do not make many and greater mistakes. A lady drives up in
+her carriage to the door of one of these labyrinthan _depôts_ of
+vanity, and in that “low soft voice so sweet in woman,” asks to
+be shewn some orange flower chaplets, and essence of
+_Frangipanier_. The poor clerk, his brains turning round like a
+revolving light, flies to obey her commands; but lo! in his hurry
+and confusion, he catches up a _frying-pan_, and with streaming
+brow, presents the inelegant article to the lady’s astounded and
+horrified gaze, instead of the delicate perfume.
+
+The master of these gay and changeful stores, is as diversiformed
+as his goods are various. In the morning he stands behind his
+counter, and “bows to” and “ma’am’s” any black member of the
+_canaille_ that condescends to purchase a few yards of
+“half-a-bit” (2d. sterling) ribbon to sandal her mill-post ankle;
+while in the evening, in all the glories of white pantaloons, new
+coat, smart buttons and embroidered stock, he figures away at an
+aristocratic dinner party.
+
+Times are indeed altered with these Scotchmen. In former years,
+when Sawney left his mountain home, his trouty lochs, and oaten
+bannocks, for the hot suns and debilitating climate of these
+“Isles of the West;” he did it for the sake alone of _siller_. As
+to ambition—faugh! he hated the very name, or else, like the cock
+in Esop’s fable, he spurned the glittering bauble, of which he
+knew not the worth. They plodded on from year to year, increased
+their stock of goods, and added many a round dollar to their
+worldly wealth, and then sat down contentedly to enjoy the smoky
+flavour of their usquebaugh, forming no greater acquaintance with
+the governor, than as they saw him proceed to the court-house in
+discharge of his high office, or knowing no more of
+government-house than the outer appearance.
+
+But the Scotchmen of the present day scorn the lowly ideas of
+their predecessors. They ape the man of fashion, call their
+haberdashery store a merchant’s warehouse, and foregoing the
+vulgar title of draper, take to themselves the loftier name of
+_merchant_. Nor is this all. They attend the governor’s _levees_,
+play the amiable at a quadrille party, frequent the billiard
+table, or perchance take wine with his excellency, and grin and
+bow with approved precision. Their shops prove an agreeable
+morning lounge for the superiors of the island, and in a glass of
+_sangaree_, or a flowing bowl of _pepper-punch_, the difference
+of grade between the entertainer and the entertained is
+overlooked.
+
+That “there is no rule without an exception,” is a true
+apophthegm; and among the many emigrants from the “land o’
+cakes,” some very respectable individuals are to be met with.
+
+I believe it a correct statement to assert, that “Scotch Row”
+begins with one of this superior class, and ends with him who has
+been called “The father of the Scotchmen,” not from his age, but
+from his high conduct.
+
+Mr. H——— is a man in whom great urbanity is blended with strong
+determination of character. He possesses varied talents, and is
+no mean disciple of St. Cecilia’s; and although, perhaps, not
+altogether ranking among the _literati_ in the fuller sense of
+that term, yet he
+
+    “——laughing can instruct Much has he read,
+    Much more has seen: he studied from the life,
+    And in the original perused mankind.”
+
+Philosophy to him, however, is no gloomy subject; no solemn
+stalking about wrapt up in his own stately ideas, and scorning,
+with cynic’s eye, any harmless mirth. In the words of one of
+Britain’s poets, I may say of him—
+
+    “——nor purpose gay,
+    Amusement, dance or song, he sternly scorns.”
+
+Nature seems to have intended him for a higher occupation, than
+to stand behind a counter and sell a few yards of tape, or a
+paper of pins.
+
+The streets of the capital have all their proper appellations,
+although no painted board announces such a fact to the traveller.
+The east and west streets, beginning southerly, are—South-street,
+Tanner, Nevis, Ratcliff, St. Mary’s, High, Long, Church, Newgate,
+Wapping, North, Bishopsgate, St. John’s, St. George’s; north and
+south streets, beginning easterly, are—East-street, Cross,
+Church-lane, Temple, Steeple-street, Corn, Market,
+Friendly-alley, Gutter-lane, Newgate-lane, Popeshead, Thames,
+Coney-Warren-lane, Subscription-alley, Craw-lane,
+Wilkinson’s-street, and Mariner’s-lane. Some of these lanes and
+alleys are famous for their _grog-shops_, particularly that
+establishment known by the appropriate name of “The
+Hole-in-the-Wall,” for the only entrance is a low arched door-way
+scooped out of its massy walls.
+
+One part of the town bears the somewhat lofty title of “The
+Parade.” In former years it answered as a kind of exchange, where
+the merchants congregated together during “’Change hours,” and
+discussed the business of the commercial world. Cargoes of all
+descriptions were here disposed of; dollars and doubloons in one
+moment changed owners, and human flesh and blood was openly
+bartered. For a long period, however, the Parade visibly declined
+in importance, and became but the shadow of itself; but within
+these last few years, it has, phœnix like, sprung up with renewed
+vigour, and presents to the passenger’s eye many good and
+bustling stores.
+
+St. John’s has, at various times, suffered severely from
+conflagrations—a circumstance not to be wondered at, when we
+consider the great number of wooden buildings, and the
+carelessness of persons in throwing about particles of fire. In
+1769, an accident of this nature occurred, which was most direful
+in its consequence. It arose from the negligence of a woman who
+was employed in ironing, and who omitted to extinguish the fire
+in a coal-pot, after finishing her labours.
+
+It may be necessary, perhaps, for the comprehension of some of my
+readers who may not be conversant with West Indian domestic
+subjects, to mention more fully the construction of a coal-pot.
+In some of the islands these utensils are composed of clay,
+moulded into the form of buckets, and baked in a moderate fire;
+but the Antiguan coal-pot is nothing more nor less than a deal
+box, clamped with iron or tin, and lined with bricks plastered
+over. A few pieces of old iron hoop are placed horizontally
+across the box at stated intervals about halfway from the bottom,
+and upon these is placed a layer of charcoal. The irons are
+arranged upon the top, and the coals ignited; no bellows are
+used, except what Nature has afforded in the owners’ own lungs;
+or when their breath fails, and the fuel still proves refractory,
+their large straw hat is displaced from their heads, and
+brandished before the mouths of their little stoves, with sundry
+ejaculations of “Eh! eh! war do de co-als to-day, me b’lieve dem
+no want to burney.”
+
+But to return to the fire in 1769; it burnt with fearful
+rapidity. The gaol, custom-house, indeed nearly the whole town,
+fell a prey to the destructive element, 260 houses being levelled
+with the ground, and some of the finest stores and richest
+merchandise destroyed. Government granted 1000l. for the relief
+of the sufferers; and their kind friends in Liverpool collected,
+during the following year, the sum of 346l. 2s. 6d., which was
+thankfully and gratefully received.
+
+Many other fires have occurred since then, the vestiges of which
+remain to this day; one in particular, known by the appropriate
+name of the burnt wall, is still pointed out to the notice of the
+stranger. Part of this land has been lately purchased by the
+Wesleyans, who have erected a small chapel upon it, which answers
+also for a school-room, and where preaching is held on Friday
+evenings.
+
+But the conflagration which happened on the 2nd April, 1841, has
+effaced the memory of all other events of the same nature. It
+broke out in the house of a person carrying on the business of a
+straw bonnet-maker, after the family had retired to rest, and it
+was only discovered in time for the inmates to make their escape
+by jumping from the upper windows.
+
+A few moments after it was first perceived, the walls fell, and
+the flames burst forth with a fearful rapidity, curling and
+twisting themselves in all directions; seizing upon every thing
+within their reach, and illuminating the heavens with their
+awfully grand lustre. The church bell tolled forth its solemn
+warning; drums beat an alarm; and, in the words of an old writer,
+when describing the fire in London in 1666, “dreadful screams
+disturbed the midnight quiet, and raised the affrighted people
+from their beds, who, scarce awake, all seemed to be a dream.
+Each one appeared but as a moving statue, as once Lot’s wife,
+viewing her flaming Sodom, was transformed into a pillar.”
+
+So saith “Samuel Wiseman,” and his graphic description answers
+equally for the fire of Antigua, as it did in yore, for that of
+London.
+
+House after house, store after store, fell beneath the raging
+element; or, when built of stone, only their bare and blackened
+walls were left standing. No sooner was one house on fire, than
+the flames were pouring into the windows of the next; scathing
+the trees as they passed, dismantling them of their verdure, and
+leaving them only a seared and withered trunk. Again the Custom
+House fell a victim, and to this cause many deficiencies in the
+statistical part of this work may be attributed; for, from the
+suddenness and violence of the fire, many valuable records were
+lost.
+
+Still the fiery deluge rolled on,—at one moment the sky was
+almost hidden by the dense masses of smoke; at another, bright
+spiral lines of flame shot up into the air, and cast a lurid
+light on all around. I am sorry to record it, but the negro-men
+behaved very ill, refusing to lend assistance, (in most
+instances,) but employing their time in plundering from the
+sufferers. To the glory of the women, be it spoken, _they_ did
+not follow the example of their kinsmen, but cheerfully and
+firmly laboured through that awful night. The crew of two French
+ships of war, which chanced to be lying in the harbour, also
+assisted, aided by the sailors from the English and island
+vessels; and the gentlemen of the town, headed by the
+lieutenant-governor, Major McPhail, (who flew to the scene of
+danger stockingless and almost slipperless,) worked with
+undaunted courage and good-will; and by dint of energy, and
+pulling down several small houses, so as to make room for the
+flames in their gyral evolutions, at length succeeded in gaining
+the mastery over their formidable enemy.
+
+But, alas! when morning came, and threw a steady light upon the
+picture, what a melancholy sight was presented to the view. A
+long line of building, including the best and finest houses,
+entirely destroyed; lumber-yards and warehouses despoiled of
+their goods, and the very streets strewed ankle-deep with burnt
+salt-fish, peas, rice, flour, and similar articles! In some parts
+might be seen groups of negroes carousing around some gutted
+dwelling, tearing out the burning provisions, and, amid all this
+desolation and the mournful feelings of men, who, in one short
+night, had lost that for which they had toiled for years,
+shouting forth from their stentorian lungs snatches of some
+bacchanalian song, or allowing their vacant heartless laugh to
+vibrate painfully upon the silent morning air.
+
+Ever and anon, the smouldering fire sent up some fitful glare; or
+a brilliant coruscation of sparks, shot forth from some still
+burning log of pitch-pine, gilded the surrounding scene with
+their beautiful but dangerous showers. The fire burnt down to the
+sea-side; seizing upon the very timber of the wharfs and cranes,
+and destroying them to the water’s edge. The amount of damage has
+been estimated at 250,000l. sterling; but the loss is more than
+can be calculated, for it has despoiled and depopulated one of
+the finest and busiest streets in the town, and which, from the
+depressed state of trade, will be long, very long, before it is
+again rebuilt.
+
+More than eight months have silently rolled by since that awful
+cry of “Fire” awoke the Antiguans from their tranquil slumbers,
+and sent a thrill of dismay through the hearts of all. And there
+stand the ruins, blackened and cracked by the intense heat which
+caused the very glass to pour down in streams, which, when
+congealed, appeared like icicles; or else, only shewing by the
+open space, where the ill-fated dwellings stood—where the voice
+of happy infancy once uttered many a jocund shout—or where the
+soft full tone of riper years carolled many a light and gladsome
+lay. Long grass and luxuriant weeds have already grown up in the
+spot once dedicated to business or pleasure, and the bat and the
+lizard have made it their own.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[68] The whites, or Buckra’s, as they are called in the West
+Indies, however indigent in circumstances, pride prohibits them
+from engaging in such industrious pursuits.
+
+[69] Used for covering the tops of houses, as tiles or slates are
+in England.
+
+[70] A flag is always hoisted upon places where a sale is held.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XIX.
+
+
+
+  Description of the church of St John’s—Period of its erection—
+  Present site—Panoramic views—Form of structure—Length and
+  breadth—Interior—Decorations—Monuments—Organ—Tower—Bells—Clock—
+  Churchyard—Tombs and sepulchral inscriptions—An acrostic—“Adam
+  and Eve!”
+
+The first place of public worship erected in St. John’s was the
+parochial church, commenced in 1683-4. It was a small wooden
+building, standing about sixty yards further to the south than
+the present church; and, if we are to believe an old writer,
+totally destitute of beauty or comfort. During the administration
+of Gen. Walter Hamilton, it was found to be in such a dilapidated
+state, that in 1716 the necessity of erecting a new church was
+submitted to the legislature; and with the concurrence of the
+members of that body, an act was passed the same year, granting a
+provision for building a new place of worship, (to be dedicated
+to St. John,) and imposing a yearly tax for the purpose of
+keeping the said church in repair. It was not, however, until
+between the years 1721 and 1723, during the period that John Hart
+was administrating the government of these islands, that the
+erection of the church was commenced. Mr. Robert Cullen was the
+architect, and by his suggestions, its site was laid to the north
+of the old building; thus occupying the very spot where the
+militia were stationed in 1710, when ordered to fire upon
+Governor Park, in that unhappy difference between him and the
+country, and which ended so fatally to himself.
+
+The present parochial church is pleasantly situated upon an
+ascent, at the head of the town, and commands from every side a
+wide and beautiful view of the surrounding country. From the west
+door, the eye ranges over the bustling town, with its motley
+groups of passengers—dwells for a time upon the long line of
+ruined buildings destroyed by the fire already described—scans
+the lovely harbour, with its graceful shipping, the interesting
+bay of the Five Islands on the one side, and, on the other, a
+long line of cocoa-nut trees and brilliant sand, bespeaking the
+situation of Dickenson’s Bay—and then roves on to the offing,
+where a large extent of ocean of the sweetest blue stretches out;
+and where, perhaps, a far-off sail may be seen, which looks in
+the distance like the white wing of some passing gull.
+
+From the south door, another beautiful and panoramic view may be
+obtained, particularly towards the close of the day, when the sun
+has almost completed his daily journey, and, shorn of his fervent
+beams, throws on every cloud his myriad dyes. The part of the
+town then presented to the gaze of the beholder slopes by a
+gradual descent towards the suburbs, bounded by Otto’s Hill (an
+estate belonging to the representatives of Bastien Baijer) and
+the surrounding country. At the extent of the horizon runs a long
+range of mountains—the more distant ones presenting a greyish,
+gloomy colour, while others have their tops irradiated with a
+brilliant fringe of gold or purple, as the different clouds
+appear to rest upon them. Of this chain, the declivities of which
+afford every species of beauty, and every gradation of varying
+green, the lower ones are generally in a state of cultivation;
+and their undulating surface presents in some places groups of
+lovely trees, or breaks into patches of sugar-canes, clusters of
+negro-huts, and sugar-mills.
+
+The church itself, which is built of brick, washed of a light
+yellow, is cruciform; the north and south vestibules forming the
+arms of the cross. The extreme length, from the inner west door
+to the altar-piece, is 130 feet; and the breadth, exclusive of
+the vestibules, (or porches,) is 50 feet. In the interior,
+eighteen plain wooden pillars divide the nave from the north and
+south aisles; the sixteen lower ones forming the support to the
+north and south galleries. The roof of the nave is a semicircular
+vault, painted to represent the heavens, with all their drapery
+of light and fleecy clouds; and when viewed from the west door,
+has a very pretty effect.
+
+The chancel roof is of the same pitch, but of a pyramidal form;
+it is painted in the same manner as the nave, and is supported by
+four square fluted columns.
+
+The altar is very beautifully devised. In the centre are the
+tables of the ten commandments, gold-lettered upon a black
+ground. On each side are full-length paintings of Moses, and of
+Aaron, in his “holy garments.” That of Aaron is very finely
+executed; the face is such as we can imagine that of the great
+“high-priest” to have been, majestic, but beautiful; and the
+“robes,” the “breast-plate,” the “ephod,” the “curious girdle,”
+and the “golden censer,” are very correctly painted. The outer
+tables of “The Belief” and “Lord’s Prayer” are handsomely gilded—
+the inscription being executed in letters of black; and over the
+commandments, in the centre of the altar, is a medallion painting
+of cherubs. The several compartments are divided by gilded
+pilasters; the cornices, architraves, and friezes, are very
+pretty and tasteful; and in the inter-columniations are one or
+two triglyphs.
+
+The communion-table is covered with dark purple velvet, fringed
+deeply with gold; and on either end lie cushions to match. The
+communion-service plate is very handsome; the large salver,
+measuring eighteen inches in diameter, was presented to the
+church by John Otto Baijer, Esq., about the year 1724. It
+displays a representation of the “Lord’s Supper,” the figures in
+beautiful _basso-relievo_, and bears the following inscription:—
+
+               Donum Domini Johannis Otto Baijer
+               Ad Templum Divi Johannis Antigua.
+
+The two smaller salvers and the cup are inscribed as follows:—
+
+            In usum Templi Divi Johannis in Antigua
+         Gulielmus Jones Parochialis hujus olim Rector
+                          Donum Dedit.
+
+Besides the communion-plate, the table supports a pair of tall
+silver lamps, with ground-glass burners, bearing the inscription—
+
+             Donum Domini Petre Lee ad Templum Divi
+                      Johannis in Antigua.
+
+And on each side of the table stand quaint-looking chairs, for
+the accommodation of the bishop and archdeacon, which have been
+used for that purpose since the dismantling of the “Bishop’s
+Pew.”
+
+The pulpit and desk are of dark oak, as also the railings to the
+stairs; and, like the communion-table, have each their drapery
+and cushions of dark purple, with deep gold fringe and tassels,
+and the “I. H. S.” encircled with its golden rays. Formerly the
+pulpit, surmounted by a sounding-board, stood further down the
+nave; but after being removed once or twice, the desk has been
+separated from the pulpit, and they are placed at the entrance of
+the chancel, on each side the aisle.
+
+About the centre of the church is suspended a brass chandelier,
+consisting of ten branches, which have been lately fitted up with
+ground-glass burners; it was a gift (by will, 2nd May, 1740) to
+the church, from Phillip Darby, an old inhabitant of Antigua, and
+rector of St. John’s.
+
+At the entrance of the church from the north vestibule stands a
+small marble font, of a semi-spherical form, ornamented with four
+heads of cherubs, and supported by a corniform pedestal. It is
+intended to be placed at the extreme end of the middle aisle,
+immediately before the west entrance, and opposite the altar—a
+site far more applicable for it than where it now stands.
+
+The church is lighted by fourteen windows: six in the north
+aisle, six in the south aisle, and two in the east end of the
+building. Formerly they were all fitted up with _jalousies_; but
+within these last few years, the eight nearest the altar have
+been reglazed with ground glass, arranged in a Gothic pattern.
+These windows are divided into six compartments; and are so
+contrived, that, by aid of a turnscrew, they can be opened to a
+certain height. They certainly add to the _beauty_ of the
+edifice, but deteriorate from its _comfort_ by rendering it
+warmer than it otherwise would be: a circumstance not desirable
+in this fervid climate.
+
+Several fine monuments grace the walls of this sacred building;
+but the oldest sepulchral inscription is upon a stone slab, in
+the chancel, to the memory of Mrs. Gilbert, wife of Mr. Gilbert,
+who introduced methodism[71] in Antigua, and who died in 1747.
+
+In the south aisle are the following monuments:—
+
+An elegant mural monument of white marble upon a black ground,
+erected to the memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Ottley, wife of Richard
+Ottley, Esq., and daughter of Ashton Warner, speaker of the house
+of assembly in 1716. The ornamental part of this monument
+consists of the figure of a seraph with outspread wings, leaning
+upon a sepulchral urn, bearing a coronal of undying laurel leaves
+in its right hand; and in its left an inverted torch, partly
+extinguished, emblematical of the uncertainty of human life. The
+inscription is as follows:—
+
+“Near to this place is laid, with the remains of her honoured
+parents, the body of Elizabeth, the pious, amiable, and
+much-beloved wife of Richard Ottley; who departed this life, in
+the Island of St Vincent, on Thursday, 28th August, in the year
+of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and sixty-six, in the
+thirty-second year of her age.
+
+“She was the daughter of Ashton Warner, Esq.,[72]
+Attorney-General of Antigua, by Elizabeth, his wife, and was born
+the 7th June, 1735, O.S.; married 25th October, in the year 1753,
+and left issue surviving her, one son and three daughters—viz.,
+Drewry, Elizabeth, Mary Trant, and Alice.
+
+“She possessed a graceful person, an excellent understanding, and
+a sweetness of disposition that engaged the esteem of all that
+knew her, and performed with so much complacency the several
+duties in her family, and those of a good friend and neighbour,
+that it may be truly said she died universally lamented, and a
+real loss to that infant colony. Her inconsolable husband (in
+whose arms she expired, after bearing with admirable fortitude
+and resignation the excruciating pains of a long and difficult
+labour) caused this monument to be erected to her memory.
+
+“The son with whom she died reclines upon that breast which would
+have nourished him had the Almighty so permitted.”
+
+A very chaste and elegant white marble tablet, forming a Gothic
+arch, erected to the memory of the Honourable Sam. Otto Baijer, a
+descendant of Bastien Baijer, who signed the capitulation in
+1666, bearing the following inscription:—
+
+             As a last mournful token of affection,
+                   This Tablet is erected by
+                  Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,
+              To the memory of her beloved Father,
+               The Honourable Samuel Otto Baijer,
+                Of Pares Estate, in this Island;
+                    Who died at Philadelphia
+                 On the 20th of December, 1835,
+                         Aged 54 years.
+
+               Also to the memory of her Mother,
+                  Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,
+                Who died in 1813, at Dove Hall,
+                   In the Island of Jamaica,
+                  In the 27th year of her age.
+
+               Also to the memory of her Brother,
+                 Rowland Archibald Otto Baijer,
+                     Son of the above-named
+        Samuel Otto Baijer and Mary Elizabeth his Wife,
+           Who died at Pares Estate, in this Island,
+                 On the 24th of November, 1837,
+                  Aged 25 years and 8 months,
+            And whose remains repose near this spot.
+
+A small, unpretending marble tablet:—
+
+                             Sacred
+                        To the Memory of
+                     Elizabeth Jane Harman,
+             Who died on the 16th April, A.D. 1828,
+                         Aged 21 years.
+          “We have this treasure in earthen vessels.”
+
+A pyramidal monument, supported by fluted pillars, and bearing a
+small sarcophagus, surmounted by two figures of children or
+cherubs, holding in their hands a scroll, on which is written
+texts from Scripture. The inscription is as follows:—
+
+“Supported only by a meek obedience to the decrees of Eternal
+Wisdom, and a firm trust in the Atonement of a gracious Redeemer,
+William and Ruth Atkinson, once inhabitants of Antigua, and now
+of Dominica, as an inadequate evidence of their intense and
+aggravated anguish for the poignant and crushing trial they have
+undergone in the loss of both their children, pay this melancholy
+tribute, when advancing into manly, lively virtue, such as fills
+the parents’ soul with solid comfort.
+
+“George Atkinson, their first and last spared hope, had nearly
+reached his twelfth year. This blooming prop of their declining
+age—when, by a mild and artless truth, joined to innate goodness
+and suavity of temper, he had irresistibly won the esteem and
+love of all—quitted this life without a struggle on Sunday, 5th
+Dec. 1779.
+
+“William Atkinson, their youngest, died in infancy.
+
+    What poets paint, what marbles feebly tell,
+    Defective far are all;
+    Such woes are only to be known
+    To real feeling souls.
+    Where equal growing filial worth’s bewail’d,
+    The name of Son thus lost, all consolation fail’d.
+    1782.”[73]
+
+A small tablet, representing a white scroll upon a black ground,
+surmounted by a laurel chaplet, bearing inscription:
+
+                          In memory of
+                         Auther Teagle,
+                     Who departed this life
+                  On the 20th November, 1839,
+                         Aged 43 years.
+                      “Thy will be done.”
+
+In the north aisle are four monuments; the first, beginning from
+the east, erected to a late curate of St. John’s. It consists of
+a white marble tablet, and above, the figure of an angel soaring
+upwards, and encompassed with clouds. The tablet bears the
+following inscription:—
+
+                        To the memory of
+             The Rev. William Thomas Bernard, A.B.,
+                  Of Trinity College, Dublin,
+                  Late curate of this parish,
+         Where, after a short residence of four months,
+         In the faithful exercise of his ministry, and
+            The manifestation of much private worth,
+               He died of fever, Nov. 2nd, 1835,
+                  In the 26th year of his age,
+              Most deeply and generally regretted,
+              This tribute of esteem and affection
+                          Is erected,
+              Partly by his much afflicted Sister,
+                        Ellen M. Baily,
+   And partly by the Right Rev. William Hart Coleridge, D.D.,
+                  Lord Bishop of this diocese,
+        The clergy of Antigua, and other friends in the
+               Island, who mourn his early loss.
+
+Beneath the tablet are his coat of arms, with the motto—
+
+                      “Bear and Forbear.”
+
+A white marble monument, with a deep border of variegated brown
+marble, to the memory of a descendant of Sir Thomas Warner. The
+ornamental part consists of a female figure enveloped in
+widow-like drapery, and leaning upon an urn. The inscription is
+as follows:—
+
+                         This monument
+                  Is erected to the memory of
+              The Honourable William Warner, Esq.,
+           Who was a member of His Majesty’s Council,
+                 And Treasurer of this Island.
+            Honourable by his office of Counsellor,
+                              But
+                   More honourable as a man:
+                             For if
+                 Virtue alone is true nobility,
+       And if justice, moderation, temperance, meekness,
+          Consummate honesty, charity, generosity, and
+Conjugal affection, are virtues that are held in any estimation
+                           Among men,
+                           This man,
+             Who lived in the exercise of them all
+                     Was truly honourable.
+He died on Friday, 11 October, 1771, in the forty-third year of
+his age,
+Universally regretted, and lamented by all orders and degrees
+among
+                              Us.
+    To commemorate her anguish for his loss, and as a public
+  Testimony of her love and duty, his disconsolate widow hath
+               Caused this memorial to be raised.
+                    Gloria in excelsis Deo!
+
+A very elegantly designed white pyramidal monument erected to the
+memory of an only child. A chastely sculptured female figure
+leans upon a “storied urn,” with a beautifully chiselled wreath
+of flowers thrown around her. This monument has been
+unfortunately injured, one of the hands and part of the arm of
+the figure being broken off.
+
+          In memory of her only and beloved daughter,
+                         Sarah Kelsick,
+         Wife of Mr. John Kelsick, merchant in Antigua,
+              Who died on 20th day of March, 1785,
+                  In the 19th year of her age.
+     This monument was erected by her disconsolate mother,
+                        Sarah Eccleston,
+                 Wife of Isaac Eccleston, Esq.,
+                             1792.
+           From the parent, the husband, the friend,
+                 Her social and amiable virtues
+                Claim the tribute of affliction,
+                   And though early cut off,
+           She must ever live in the memory of those
+           Who had the happiness of her acquaintance.
+                   Vivit post funera virtus.
+
+The next is an elaborate and splendid monument, erected by the
+country to the memory of Ralph Lord Lavington; and however
+peculiar the taste which dictated the design, the execution, at
+least, possesses merit. The top figure represents his lordship in
+a sitting posture, habited in the old court dress, and his plumed
+hat lying at his feet. The inscription is traced upon a light
+grey marble, hollowed out so as to allow of the insertion of a
+small sarcophagus, bearing his coat of arms, with a
+beautifully-executed branch of oak-leaves thrown across it.
+
+Two female figures recline on each side; the one on the left
+hand, representing Astrea with her scales by her side, and the
+hilt of the sword of justice, very minutely and beautifully
+sculptured, protruding from behind the sarcophagus; her
+finely-formed and classic face is up-turned towards the old lord.
+In the other figure we behold the genius of the island, mourning
+for the loss of a favourite governor. She holds in her right hand
+a scroll, upon which is inscribed—“Resolved, that a monument be
+erected to his memory,” while with her left hand she shades her
+features as if in deep grief. At the feet of these figures rolls
+the sea, the waves, surmounted with their foam, very well
+executed. This costly monument bears the following inscription:—
+
+                             Sacred
+                        To the memory of
+                  Ralph Payne Lord Lavington,
+                   Of the kingdom of Ireland,
+      One of His Majesty’s most honourable Privy Council,
+        Knight of the most honourable Order of the Bath,
+         and Captain-general, and Commander-in-chief of
+                      The Leeward Islands.
+
+Upon the base of the monument is the following brief biographical
+inscription:—
+
+“He was born in the Island of St. Christopher’s, of an English
+family, distinguished for its loyalty and public spirit. His
+education he received in England, and it prepared him for the
+distinctions which awaited his return to his native isle, when he
+was elected a member of the House of Assembly, and on its first
+meeting unanimously called to the chair of the House, in which
+high situation he gave an early display of those superior talents
+and eminent qualifications which afterwards secured him the
+confidence of his king, and the esteem of his country. On his
+return to England in 1762, he was elected a member of the House
+of Commons for the borough of Plympton, Devonshire; and from his
+perfect knowledge of colonial affairs, he was appointed in 1771—a
+period of national interest—to be captain-general and
+commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, at which time he was
+also invested with the most honourable Order of the Bath. He
+remained in the exercise of his government until 1774, when he
+returned to England, and was appointed a member of the Board of
+Green Cloth. During the period of his residence in England, he
+sat in five parliaments, and in 1795, his Majesty was graciously
+pleased to raise him to the dignity of a peer in Ireland, by the
+style and title of Baron Lavington of Lavington. In 1799, he was
+sworn one of his Majesty’s most honourable Privy Council, and
+again appointed to the chief command of the Leeward Islands, in
+the wise and able administration of which important trust he
+passed his latter years
+
+                 And closed his venerable life.
+                         This nobleman
+             Was revered for his public qualities,
+           As he was beloved for his private virtues.
+He blended the dignity of his high office with the affability of
+his     disposition and the gracefulness of his manners,
+And at once commanded the respect, and conciliated the affections
+of all              ranks of people
+              Within the circle of his government
+As a sincere and lasting testimony of their veneration and
+regret,
+                   The Legislature of Antigua
+                   Have erected this monument
+He died at the Government House of this Island, on the 3rd day of
+Aug. 1807, aged 68; and was interred at his own estate, called
+Carlisles.”
+
+The whole of this very handsome monument is enclosed in an arch
+of plain black marble. I should have mentioned that the
+ornamental parts of this tomb are all in pure _white_ marble.
+
+The remaining monument is erected to the memory of Mrs. Musgrave,
+who was unfortunately thrown out of her carriage (the horse
+becoming restive and breaking the shafts) and killed upon the
+spot. This unhappy catastrophe occurred in one of the streets of
+St. John’s, and a representation of the event, absurd as it may
+seem, is sculptured upon the monument (which is of white marble)
+in basso-relievo. In the background is the animal, apparently of
+the cart-horse breed, scampering away with the broken shafts and
+traces hanging around him; in the foreground, is the figure of a
+man, kneeling and supporting in his arms a female, whose listless
+posture portrays the dire event. The face of the female is well
+executed, the features expressing acute suffering, while they
+tell the hand of death is upon them; but the figure is execrable
+in its proportions, the hand and arm being quite as large as the
+leg and foot of the man, if not larger. The inscription is as
+follows:—
+
+             “No warning given! unceremonious fate!
+            A sudden rush from life’s meridian joys!
+               A wrench from all she loved.”[74]
+                      Sacred to the memory
+                               of
+                        Eliza Musgrave,
+                Wife of William Musgrave, Esq.,
+             Of the Inner Temple, barrister-at-law.
+                     She departed this life
+             On the morning of the 12th Feb., 1815,
+                         Aged 24 years,
+           Beloved and lamented by all who knew her.
+                    Her God she reverenced;
+      Towards her neighbours she never wilfully offended;
+               To her husband she was everything
+          His fondest wishes could picture or embrace.
+                He idolized her while she lived,
+             And his respect for her exalted worth
+                   Survives beyond the grave.
+              The remembrance of her many virtues
+                  Remains indelibly inscribed
+                     In his dejected bosom.
+
+    “Friends, our chief treasure, how they drop!
+    How the world falls to pieces round about us!
+    And leaves us in the ruin of our joy!
+    What says this transportation of my friends?
+    It bids me love the place where now they dwell,
+    And scorn this wretched spot it leaves so poor.”[75]
+
+The aisles of the church are paved with a coarse species of
+marble, laid down in alternate diamonds of black and white. The
+chancel is raised by two steps, and has a stone pavement. The
+body of the church contains 152 pews, but with the assistance of
+the galleries, of which there are three, affords about 1800
+sittings. The governor’s pew is very neatly fitted up with
+crimson damask, and contains some gaily coloured ottomans; over
+the pew are the royal arms of England. Service is performed in
+the church on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays; and our exemplary
+rector, with true Christian indefatigability, administers the
+sacrament monthly, at eight in the morning, and after the usual
+morning service.
+
+The organ with which the church is furnished, was erected (partly
+by subscription) in 1760, at the cost of 450l. sterling, the
+vestry making up what was wanting. It is still a very fine
+instrument, and our talented and respected organist, G. Hart,
+Esq., fully recompenses us for any defects it may labour under by
+his inimitable execution.[76]
+
+At the west end of the nave rises a plain quadrangular tower,
+surmounted by an octagonal cupola. The elevation to the apex of
+the cupola is sixty-five feet; the altitude of the tower itself
+is fifty feet. This tower was not erected until 1789, some years
+after the parent church, but from being constructed of the same
+materials, presents a uniform appearance; the cupola is built of
+wood, the perpendicular compartments being _jalousied_. John
+Delap Halliday, Esq. gave 500l. towards its erection.[77]
+
+Within these last few months, two windows have been pierced at
+the east side of the tower, in the small chamber where the works
+of the clock are placed. These were made at the suggestion of Mr.
+Jones, the keeper of the clock, and which prove very beneficial
+to him when inspecting and cleaning that necessary appurtenance.
+Before that period this chamber was perfectly dark, which not
+only rendered the air within it extremely damp, but presented an
+obstacle to the due regulation of the instrument contained in it;
+for candles are but a sorry substitute for the clear light of day
+when employed in such delicate business as rectifying the
+machinery of a horologe. Under the care of Mr. Jones the works
+are kept beautifully clean, which of course will produce a good
+effect. This instrument was the gift of John Delap Halliday, (as
+may be seen by the inscription upon the works,) of Antigua, and
+the maker of it Charles Penton, London, 1788. The windows are
+glazed, and present exactly the same appearance as those to be
+found in the suburban dwelling-houses around that mighty
+metropolis, London.
+
+The tower contains two bells; the tenor one inscribed—“Edmund
+Powell, Golden Grove, 1684,” and was kept for the use of the
+coloured classes in other days. The large bell was presented to
+the church by John Delap, (before he assumed the name of
+Halliday,) Esq., 1788. It bore the following inscription:—“The
+gift of John Delap, Esq. The Rev. James Lindsey, rector; Thomas
+Hanson Halloran, and Daniel Hill, churchwardens. Charles Penton,
+London, fecit. John Warner, founder, of London, 1788.” It was
+taken down the 11th of February, 1840, on account of a serious
+injury beyond repair, shipped for London on board the “Antigua
+Packet,” and exchanged for a new one of the same size, which now
+serves to call the people to church, and to speak the demise of
+the inhabitants; but it is silent at a wedding, for in this
+country no merry peal of bells announces that event which
+elsewhere is ever the signal for joy and festivity.
+
+Having attempted the description of the church, I will now
+proceed to mention the churchyard, which lies upon a gentle
+slope, and contains numerous tombs, with their iron or wooden
+railings. The most beautiful tomb in the ground was erected to
+the memory of the Honourable Otto Baijer, by his widow, who
+afterwards died on her passage to England in 1726. Her remains
+were brought back to Antigua, and now repose by the side of her
+loved husband. It is of pure white marble, although stained by
+exposure to the weather, and is elegantly ornamented with various
+fruits and flowers in basso-relievo.
+
+The oldest sepulchral monuments, of which I could make out the
+inscriptions, are to the memory of Troughton, 1704; Col. Philip
+Lee. 1704;[78] Capt. Bastien Baijer, 1715; Thos. Oasterman, Esq.,
+1724; Frederic Cope, 1739; and Mrs. Warner, the wife of Ashton
+Warner, Esq., 1748.
+
+The inscription upon the tomb of Frederic Cope demands, however,
+further mention. It is an acrostic; the _poetry_ I leave to the
+judgment of my readers.
+
+                        THE INSCRIPTION.
+
+    “F ar removed from every human eye he is,
+    R egardless now of earth, partakes of heaven’s bliss;
+    E xalted was his lively soul whilst here below,
+    D elighted ever tender friendships for to show;
+    E asy and cheerful through every scene of Life;
+    R eady to forgive all; but unto me, his wife,
+    I ndulgent to the last degree, for ever kind—
+    C alm was his spirit, virtuous was his mind.
+
+    C areful he ever was to take no bribe in Law;
+    O h! full, full well the abject hate of mortals saw.
+    P artial he never was, just to each man’s fame,
+    E ach initial letter will now declare his name.”
+
+He was born in London, of honest parents, on the 21st day of May,
+1711, and died, in Antigua, on the 8th ———, 1739.
+
+A fine large marble tomb, to the memory of the Honourable Ashton
+Warner, who died 11th of February, 1762, stands near to this very
+original sepulchral acrostic; and at no great distance a single
+stone to the memory of some admiral (the inscription obliterated)
+with its anchors and flags, and escutcheons.
+
+On the east side of the north vestibule stands the tomb of
+Major-general George W. Ramsey, governor-in-chief of Antigua,
+Monserrat, and Barbados, in 1816, who departed this life,
+November 1st, 1819, in the 58th year of his age. The iron railing
+has become rusted and bent,[79] and the tomb bears many a
+blackened mark.
+
+Near to the last resting-place of governor Ramsey, stands another
+very handsome tomb of white marble, erected to that well-known
+and eccentric character, Patrick Kirwan. He was a native of
+Galway, and as true an Irishman as ever handled a shillelah, or
+vowed devotion to “the shamrock so green.” Mr. Kirwan resided in
+Antigua for many years, as a planter and proprietor of estates,
+where his “bulls and blunders” are still remembered and repeated
+with delight. Upon one occasion he sent for a sun-dial from
+England, which he intended to have erected near his dwelling; but
+upon its arrival, it looked so smart with its golden rays and
+gnomen, that “Pat” pronounced it the very height of profanation
+to have such a pretty “cratur” exposed to the relentless shafts
+of master Sol; and so to preserve its beauty, and keep all
+secure, he had a tight snug shed built over it, which eventually
+forbid the entrance of any straggling sunbeam which might feel
+inclined to call upon it, to learn the hour. Poor Mr. Kirwan! his
+Irish blood was always leading him to commit blunders, which were
+sure to raise a laugh at his expense. During a partial rebellion
+of the negroes, at a period when he was manager of an estate, a
+few miles from the capital, he one morning presented himself
+before the proprietor with a very flushed face, and excited mien—
+“Good morning, Mr. Kirwan,” said his employer. “What brings you
+to town so suddenly—you look alarmed, I hope nothing is the
+matter?” “Faith, an there is though!” retorted the Irishman, “and
+if the blessed St. Patrick himself had been here, he would have
+looked alarmed too. Why, there’s a perfect _resurrection_ of the
+negroes upon your estate!” “A what?” inquired the surprised
+proprietor. “A perfect _resurrection_,” repeated Pat, “and I have
+come to ask you what I must do?” His employer could scarcely
+repress a smile at this strange intelligence. At length, however,
+he summoned gravity enough to reply, “If that’s the case, Mr.
+Kirwan, the best advice I can give you is, to put a _hoe_ into
+their hands as fast as they rise, and set them to work
+immediately.”
+
+But with all his “_bulls and blunders_,” Mr. Kirwan was
+deservedly respected, and his death universally regretted. He
+died in 1819, in the 66th year of his age. The inscription upon
+his monument informs us “By his direction this tomb was erected.”
+
+At the entrance of the east gate is a mural stone monument,
+erected to the memory of James Cullen, by his brother Robert
+Cullen. This monument is pointed out to strangers on account of
+the peculiarity of its form, with the assertion that the person
+who built the church is buried there, and that the coffin is
+obliged to stand in a perpendicular position. This, however, is
+not correct; the monument certainly stands there, but the place
+where the body is entombed is 23 feet further to the west; and
+instead of being raised to the memory of the architect of the
+church, that individual erected it to perpetuate the memory of
+his brother. This fact is engraven upon the monument; but so
+unexploring are the Antiguans in general, that I think but few of
+the inhabitants are aware of the real truth, but still think the
+coffin stands upright.
+
+This strange practice of putting up the grave-stone at a distance
+from the grave is not the only instance of the kind to be met in
+the churchyard of St. John’s. At one of the west gates lies a
+stone slab, to the memory of the late organist; and upon reading
+the inscription, I supposed that the body reposed beneath. But
+not so: that lies far away, with “not a stone to mark the place.”
+Upon asking a pew-opener the reason for placing the slab in that
+situation, his reply was, “It does so nicely, you know, for the
+people to walk on, and looks well.”
+
+The churchyard is entered by five iron gates, of handsome
+patterns. At the north, a flight of stone steps leads up to the
+church, while from the south gate, the building is approached by
+an easy and gradual ascent, paved with brick. The pillars of the
+south gate are surmounted by stone figures, representing St. John
+the Baptist, and St. John the Evangelist. These figures were
+intended to receive the vows of the good catholics at Dominica;
+but as it happened to be war time, when they took their departure
+from “_la belle France_,” on their passage they fell in with an
+English man-of-war, who most unceremoniously took them into
+keeping, and brought them to Antigua; where, by universal
+consent, they were placed as sentinels in their present position,
+instead of being decked out in gold and silver leaf, and mock
+jewels. The negroes, however, refuse to recognise them by their
+own titles, but have unanimously dubbed them “Adam and Eve”—the
+Baptist, I suppose, playing the part of the lady, as his garments
+are longer and more voluminous than those of his companion.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[71] See Chapter XX.
+
+[72] A descendant of Sir Thomas Warner, who planted the first
+English colony in Antigua.
+
+[73] This strangely-worded inscription is copied verbatim.
+
+[74] Slightly altered from Young’s “Night Thoughts.”
+
+[75] Young’s “Night Thoughts,” Night 7th.
+
+[76] To the organ is attached a choir, composed of the boys and
+girls from the parochial school.
+
+[77] From this John Delap Halliday descends the present Admiral
+Tollemache—viz.—
+
+Lionel Tollemache, 3rd Earl of Dysert, born June, 1708; married
+Grace, eldest daughter of John Earl of Granville, by whom he had
+(among other issue) a daughter, Jane, married, 1770, John Delap
+Halliday, of the Leasowes, county of Salop, and of Antigua, Esq.,
+by whom she had issue, I. John Halliday, Admiral R.N., and who
+has assumed the name of Tollemache, and who married Elizabeth,
+second daughter of John, 3rd Earl of Aldborough, by whom he has,
+among other children, Elizabeth, the present Countess of
+Cardigan; and II. Charlotte, married Henry, fourth son of 6th Sir
+William Wolseley, of Wolseley, county Stafford.
+
+[78] The gentleman who presented the pair of silver candlesticks
+for the communion table. He was an Irishman by birth and
+education; but after having served in the wars in Flanders, he
+emigrated to Antigua, and became Speaker of the House of Assembly
+in that island in 1702.
+
+[79] It is said to have been done by lightning.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XX.
+
+
+
+  Court-house—Bazaar—Arsenal—Police-office—Government-house—
+  Barracks—House of correction—Gaol—Methodist chapel—Methodism,
+  its rise and progress in Antigua—Moravian chapel—Rise and
+  progress of the Society of United Brethren—Scotch kirk.
+
+After the church and churchyard of St. John’s, the next public
+building which calls for attention is the court house. This, as
+before stated, was erected in 1747, William Lowry being the
+mason, and Duncan Grant the carpenter. Who these worthies were I
+know not; but a glance at the court house proves they were
+efficient workmen. In order to raise funds to defray the expenses
+of its erection, the legislature obtained a loan of 746l. 12s.
+4½d. currency, from the executors of Samuel and Thomas Watkins;
+and Jonas Langford (a proprietor of Antigua, and whose estates
+still go by his name) lent 1253l. 7s. 7¾d. currency, which debts
+were to be paid off by levying a tax of 2s. 6d. per head upon all
+slaves in the island for six years.
+
+The place where it stands was originally the market; but that
+site being the one most approved of for the erection of a public
+building, the market was removed to a street nearly facing it,
+where it has since been held.
+
+The court house is a very noble-looking pile for a West India
+colony, and indeed would not disgrace the boasted streets of
+London. The plan of the structure is very uniform and neat. It is
+built of a fine-grained freestone, the produce of some of the
+small islands already described, which was furnished by contract
+for the purpose by Mr. Robert Bannister, a former planter of
+Antigua.
+
+The principal entrance (to the south) is approached by iron
+gates; and after crossing a small court-yard paved with large
+flag-stones, you enter a small corridor, supported by circular
+stone columns, with plain capitals. At each end of this corridor,
+a flight of stairs leads to the upper apartments in the east and
+west wings, the one appropriated to the use of his excellency the
+governor, when he retires for the purpose of preparing his
+speech; the other to the clerk of the assembly; below are the
+marshal’s office, and the office of the colonial secretary.
+
+The ground-floor of the main building comprises one large room,
+extending the whole length and breadth of the edifice. The east
+end being fitted up for the sittings of all courts of justice,
+has its bench for the judges, covered with crimson, and a chair
+for the governor (when present), over which are the national
+arms, where the “lion” grins with approved ferocity, and the
+“unicorn” shews its golden hoofs. Around a huge circular table,
+which might have feasted “king Arthur” and his gallant “knights,”
+even better than the stone one which is shewn as having answered
+for that purpose, are placed the sittings for the barristers,
+attorney-general, solicitor-general, and benches for the grand
+and petty juries. Exactly opposite the seat of the
+solicitor-general, a ready pen has scrawled upon the table a
+striking likeness of “his satanic majesty.” I hope his aid was
+not necessary in that part of Astrea’s court, at the time his
+lineaments were portrayed! This part of the interior is enclosed
+within a semi-circular mahogany railing. At the lower or west end
+of the apartment are congregated all the _canaille_—the very
+riff-raff of the town—who flock to hear speeches they understand
+as much as a Greek syllogism; the respectable spectators are
+admitted within the enclosure. The barristers plead in gowns, but
+not in wigs, very much to their comfort I should apprehend, in
+this warm climate.
+
+The upper floor of the court house is divided into two apartments
+by wooden partitions, leaving a lobby between; but these can be
+removed at pleasure, making the whole one room, as on the
+ground-floor. The east apartment is appropriated to the governor
+and council, when sitting; at other times for the use of the
+grand jury, or petty juries in criminal causes. A long table
+covered with “green cloth” runs across the room, and around which
+are placed very handsome chairs, of unique patterns, (oak, with
+cane backs, and green morocco seats and elbows,) the one destined
+for the use of the governor being of larger dimensions, and
+having the arms of England painted upon it.
+
+The west room is used for the meeting of the house of assembly,
+and is furnished in the same manner as the other apartment, only
+that under the royal arms (which are attached to the north side
+of the room) is a kind of rostrum, furnished with its proper
+seat, and intended for the accommodation of the speaker of the
+house of assembly.
+
+On returning by the west flight of stairs, my eyes were directed
+to a padlock in the wall, which formerly secured the ladder made
+use of at executions; but happy am I to say, such scenes are now
+of very rare occurrence in this island.
+
+I should have observed, that balls and dinners are sometimes held
+at the court house; as well as Bible and missionary meetings; and
+also fancy sales for charitable purposes. The last fancy fair, or
+rather bazaar, held there by the Church-of-England Association,
+was a very crowded affair. It took place on the day after
+Christmas-day, a day of all others devoted by the Antiguans to a
+display of dress. Not only all kinds of fancy and ornamental
+articles, fabricated by the fair hands of the Antiguan ladies
+were to be found there, but what pleased some part of the company
+much better, a well-filled lunch-table was spread, when pullets
+and guinea-birds, turkeys and ham, were joined to a whole army of
+tarts and puffs, fruits and confections. It was a motley group
+that frequented the court house that day: Iris would have found
+herself outvied in colours, and Fancy might have taken a new
+lesson. In one part of the room might be seen a member of the
+council, with his lady hanging upon his arm, and next to him a
+black labourer _with his lady_, in the same position; the latter
+couple making, in many instances, a far greater show than their
+aristocratic neighbours.[80] The military band was stationed in
+the lower apartment, and played during the day the most
+fashionable and favourite airs. The profits arising from this
+sale were appropriated to the purposes of assisting to defray the
+expenses of the new public cistern lately erected.
+
+Opposite the north side of the court house is the arsenal,
+erected in 1757 or 1758. It is, as might be supposed, a strong
+building, and stands in a court yard, enclosed with iron
+railings. To the east of the arsenal is the old guard-house,
+erected in 1754, during the administration of Sir George Thomas.
+It is a plain building, with two projecting wings; but it is now
+very much out of repair, not being used for any purpose.
+Adjoining the guard-house is a long stone building, with its
+grated windows, formerly used as the gaol of the island, but
+within these last few years turned into the police office,—the
+goal being removed to the suburbs of St. John’s. This is a very
+great improvement; for this building, standing in one of the
+greatest thoroughfares of this populous town, and directly facing
+the market, the culprits who were immured for petty crimes, and
+kept in that part of the gaol, could look through their grated
+windows, hold converse with the passers-by, and thus disseminate
+their evil counsels among the idle and profligate of both sexes,
+who were always lounging about that spot. The dungeons where the
+felons used to be confined were gloomy dens indeed, and ran along
+the outer walls of the prison. One of these dungeons has been
+lately made into an engine-house, a door being broken through its
+massy walls facing the street. Upon passing this vault during its
+transformation, a sigh broke from my lips as memory carried me
+back to those fearful days when so many miserable creatures, who
+bore the name without the freedom of man, used to inhabit them,
+and often, it is said, from very trivial causes. Like Sterne, I
+fancied I could behold them in all their misery,—their bodies,
+perhaps, wasted with disease,—their eyes blood-shot and wild with
+despair,—their features sharpened by anguish of mind:—no one to
+soothe their grief,—no one to hear their complaint,—and without
+the _hope_, but not perhaps without the _fear_, of an hereafter,
+they left those cheerless vaults to be launched into eternity by
+the hangman’s hands! The picture was too dreadful; but sounds of
+laughter and gladness were abroad, our carriage rolled on amid
+crowds of blacks of every sex and age; and although at times I
+suffer, as many others do, from their impudence of manners and
+behaviour, yet I felt in my heart a pleasure at their being
+_free_. The present building was erected in 1772, the former gaol
+having been burnt to the ground in the great fire of 1769.
+
+The next edifice worthy of notice is government house. It is
+situated in a pleasant and open space in the suburbs, and
+embraces a wide extent of prospect, while from its open windows
+as pure a breeze may be inhaled as attainable from any dwelling
+in the capital. Although possessing nothing very grand in its
+exterior, or internal arrangements, no marble pillars or lofty
+arches, yet it is a pleasant, genteel West Indian residence,
+possessing some good apartments, and having its stabling and
+other out-buildings upon a respectable scale. During the period
+his excellency is residing in the capital, the “Union Jack”
+floats from the top of the flag-staff, opposite government house;
+and then all loyal subjects pay their respects to their young and
+beautiful queen’s representative.
+
+The custom house, as has already been mentioned, was destroyed in
+the fire of 1841. It was a very respectable edifice, and well
+suited to the purpose. The building now used in its stead is
+hired at the annual rent of 100l. sterling. The treasurer’s and
+registrar’s offices are also private property, for which a
+moderate rent is given.[81]
+
+From the custom house, I proceed to mention the barracks, very
+delightfully situated in a kind of open heath, to the east of the
+town. These consisted of two distinct buildings a few paces from
+each other; but the north wing of the lower one becoming
+dismantled and ruinous, it was resolved in 1831 to repair it, and
+appropriate it to the use of a gaol, instead of the building
+already described in the vicinity of the court house.
+
+In this gaol, far greater attention is paid to the unfortunate
+inmates than was formerly the case. The prisoners are furnished
+with two wholesome and sufficient meals a day, but no clothing or
+bedding is allowed, unless by order of the medical man attending
+them. The females are separated from the men, and the debtors
+from the felons; although in former years they all used to herd
+together.
+
+Since the year 1829, the Rev. Robert Holberton, the excellent
+rector of St. John’s, has voluntarily visited the prison every
+Sunday between the hours of seven and eight a.m., to read
+prayers, and deliver a religious discourse to the inmates; and in
+all cases where an unhappy being has so outraged the laws of
+humanity and justice as to forfeit his life to pay the penalty of
+his crimes, that divine has ever stepped in with his message of
+mercy, prayed with them, and sought to soften their stony hearts;
+to lead them to that only fountain capable of washing away their
+deadly sins, and finally accompanied them to the last sad scene
+of their mortal career.
+
+One part of the gaol is converted into a house of correction, and
+the prisoners confined there are employed in breaking stones, or,
+under the surveillance of an officer, in working in the roads, or
+assisting in any other public works. A treadmill was sent for
+from England some time ago, but after costing the country a large
+sum, strange to say, no use is made of it. A shed is built over
+it, and there it remains quietly in the gaol-yard, and is likely
+to do so to the end of its existence. The reason for not using
+this machine, however, is said to be on account of the power
+required to work it, which necessarily calls for the exertions of
+a large gang; and although the house of correction is generally
+crowded with occupants, yet there has seldom been a sufficient
+number of culprits at one time condemned to that peculiar
+punishment, to set the treadmill going.
+
+The north end of the building is appropriated to the use of the
+officers of her majesty’s troops, stationed for the time in the
+island; and notwithstanding its near proximity to a prison, must,
+I should think, be a very pleasant domicile. The privates are
+quartered at the other barracks, further to the east; and beneath
+the shade of a large tree growing near, their red-faced wives may
+be seen busily employed in washing their habiliments, while their
+sun-burnt children scramble about and chase the butterflies, who,
+gorgeous in colours, sport about the margin of a neighbouring
+pond.
+
+The next building to be mentioned is, the new Ebenezer Chapel,
+belonging to the Methodist society. The corner-stone of this
+edifice was laid by the Honourable Nicholas Nugent (then speaker
+of the house of assembly, but who now resides in England as the
+colonial agent) in 1837. A religious service was first held in
+the old chapel, and then, forming into a procession, consisting
+of ministers of the different sects in Antigua, some of the
+aristocrats of the island, the leading members of the Methodists,
+and the scholars of their Sunday-schools, they marched to the
+spot appointed for the erection of their new place of worship. A
+bottle containing the customary inscription was placed in the
+cavity the stone lowered to its proper situation, the three blows
+of the mallet struck, addresses delivered, and the ceremony was
+over.
+
+It is a spacious building, the front being constructed of
+free-stone, the gift of the Honourable and Rev. Nathaniel
+Gilbert. It is pierced with two tiers of windows; the upper ones
+arched and of larger size than the lower tier, which are very
+disproportioned to the extent of the edifice—a circumstance which
+tends to render it warmer than it otherwise would be. The
+ground-floor is appropriated to the use of the infant and Sunday
+schools, as also their “tea-parties,” held for charitable
+purposes; above is the chapel, which is approached by an outward
+flight of stone steps. The interior is fitted up in the usual
+plain style; but boasts a smart display of blue and white paint.
+
+The pulpit, painted to represent oak, is an irregular octagon,
+supported by four fluted columns, and covered with purple
+drapery, bordered with yellow fringe, instead of gold; below is
+the reading desk. The pulpit is so lofty, which renders it
+inconvenient for such of the congregation as occupy the body of
+the chapel to follow the movements of the officiating minister.
+The galleries run round all sides, and are supported by plain
+cast-iron pillars, bearing each its neat-looking lamp. The last
+gallery is exclusively appropriated to the use of the children of
+the Females’ Friend Society and the Sunday-school scholars; and
+here, also, is placed the seraphine belonging to the chapel,
+which serves to lead the vocal part of the service. Altogether,
+the chapel is an excellent building, superior to anything of the
+kind I have seen in the West Indies, and makes a good and
+commanding outward appearance, particularly when lighted up of an
+evening; but to my eye it looks more like reading rooms, or a
+philosophical institution, than a place of worship.
+
+Methodism was first established in Antigua in 1760, by the
+Honourable Nathaniel Gilbert, speaker of the house of assembly.
+In 1758, Mr. Gilbert visited England, carrying with him some of
+his negro servants; and during his stay there, he formed an
+acquaintance with the Rev. John Wesley, the venerable founder of
+Methodism, who baptized two of the negroes. Upon Mr. Gilbert’s
+return to Antigua, he signified to those individuals who resided
+near him, that he should feel happy in meeting them at his house
+on certain evenings, when he would expound the word of God to
+them, and endeavour to enlighten their minds upon religious
+subjects. This invitation was eagerly accepted by many of the
+negroes and coloured people, and Mr. Gilbert was led to increase
+his views, and form a regular organized society, which in a short
+time amounted to two hundred members.
+
+This proceeding of Mr. Gilbert produced the greatest astonishment
+among the inhabitants of Antigua. A man in his rank of life to
+herd with negro slaves, and their coloured offspring, who,
+although perhaps they might be free, bore about with them the
+marks of their despised race!—oh! wondrous! incomprehensible!—the
+man must be mad, thought they. But when he, unmindful of their
+censure, proceeded in his acts of love towards these poor
+outcasts from the pale of society, their wonder knew no bounds;
+their feelings took another turn, and what at first was surprise,
+gave way to reproach and contempt. Mr. Gilbert, however, was not
+to be moved by what mankind said of him; he knew the consequence
+before he commenced his labours; and reckless of scorn or
+reprehension, he steadily pursued the path he had chalked out,
+knowing full well in whom he trusted. Thus he proceeded, until
+death called him from this world, and summoned him to reap his
+reward in heaven; when, strong in faith, he left his infant
+society without a shepherd to watch over its welfare.
+
+Mr. Gilbert derived his origin from a family of considerable
+distinction in the west of England, where one of its members—Sir
+Humphrey Gilbert—associating himself with his kinsman, the
+celebrated Sir Walter Raleigh, became one of the most eminent
+circumnavigators of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Dying, he left
+a son, Raleigh Gilbert, Esq., who, among other individuals,
+obtained from King James I. a large grant, in what was then
+termed Plymouth—the foundation of the afterwards glorious colony
+of Virginia, in North America—and where, in 1606, he emigrated,
+along with the Lord Chief Justice Popham; George Popham, Esq.
+(his son); William Parker, Esq.; and Thomas Stanham, Esq. Soon
+after this period, we find Raleigh Gilbert, under the title of
+Captain Gilbert, in command of a vessel manned with 100 men, and
+provided with ordnance, stores, and provisions, sufficient for
+the establishment of a plantation, which he (in conjunction with
+Captain Popham, a joint patentee, and in command of another
+vessel, similarly provided) began on the banks of the river
+“Sagadock,” in the year 1608, and where they erected a fort,
+called Sir George’s. Captain Popham, his zealous coadjutor,
+having died in this place, Captain Gilbert returned to England,
+where he took possession of an estate, fallen to him by the death
+of his elder brother, Sir John Gilbert, President of the
+Virginian Company. Another member of this family, we find, about
+the same time, leader of an abortive expedition to form a
+settlement upon the shores of the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia,
+and who, it appears, was well acquainted with those several
+islands which now form the Leeward Caribbee government. The
+following extract is taken from a work published in 1741 (second
+edition):—
+
+“In the same year, Captain Gilbert, in the ‘Elizabeth,’ of
+London, made a voyage to Virginia, but not with the like success.
+He traded with the savages in the Charibbe Islands—viz., St
+Lucia, Dominica, Nevis, St Christopher’s, &c., and thence
+proceeded to the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia, being the first
+that sailed up it, and landed there. The Indians set upon him and
+his company in the woods, and Captain Gilbert and four or five of
+his men were killed by their arrows, upon which his crew returned
+home.”
+
+We cannot undertake to say from which particular member of this
+distinguished family the Gilberts of Antigua sprang, but they
+were among its earliest settlers, and constituted some of the
+greatest ornaments of the colony, in which for so many years they
+have been proprietors. The present  most noble Marquis of
+Northampton, President of the Royal Society, descends, in a
+female line, from this family. His mother, the late marchioness,
+(married, August 18, 1787, to Charles, late Earl and Marquis of
+Northampton, and died, March, 1843,) being the daughter of a Miss
+Gilbert, (daughter of Nathaniel Gilbert, of Gilberts, Antigua,
+Esq., grandfather of the present Honourable and Reverend N.
+Gilbert,) by her husband, Joshua Smith, of East Stoke Park, co.
+of Wilts, Esq.
+
+But to return to Methodism. Unpromising as the state of this
+little society might seem, the good seed already sown was not
+destined to perish. The Great Shepherd cared for it; and when
+least expected, raised another pastor in the person of a Mr. John
+Baxter, a native of England. Mr. Baxter was a man who moved in
+humble life, and who worked in the capacity of shipwright, in
+Chatham Dockyard; but he was justly esteemed by all who knew him,
+a pattern to the society to which he belonged, and a
+highly-respected leader among Mr. Wesley’s sect. In 1777, a
+proposal was made him by some of the directors of the Chatham
+Dockyard, to sail for Antigua, and work as foreman of the calkers
+in the naval establishment of that island. To this Mr. Baxter
+assented; but not so his friends: they made use of every argument
+in their power to make him forego his purpose—representing, in
+the most glowing colours, the distance he would be from all he
+loved; the dangers of the ocean, over which he must pass; and the
+difference, perhaps insalubrity, of climate he would have to
+contend with. But all without avail; he felt an unconquerable
+desire to visit that portion of the globe, and accordingly,
+bidding his friends farewell, he left England, and arrived in
+Antigua on the 2nd of April, 1778.
+
+As might be expected, he found the infant Methodist Society in a
+very languishing state. Upon hearing of his arrival, and of his
+being a member of the same sect as their beloved benefactor, the
+little band waited upon him, and after welcoming him to their
+shores, begged him to tell Mr. Wesley he had many children in
+Antigua whom he had never seen, but who were earnestly desirous
+of his aid. On the following Sabbath, Mr. Baxter met them in the
+services of religion, and from that day constituted himself their
+pastor; which office he performed until his death, assembling
+them together on Sundays, and performing the full service, as in
+England, and on the other week-days, after his labours in the
+dockyard were over, visiting the different estates, and teaching
+the poor slaves the road to salvation.
+
+His exertions were greatly blessed; and by the following year,
+1779, six hundred negroes were joined to the congregation. He now
+contemplated the erection of a chapel, and for that purpose
+instituted collections among his people, and adopted every other
+consistent method to acquire funds to carry out his plans.
+
+Mr. Baxter’s situation was productive of great discomfort to
+himself; his duties to be performed in the naval-yard were very
+laborious; and after a long day’s work, his evenings were spent
+in travelling from plantation to plantation, the harbinger of
+Gospel news. He had no one to assist him in his self-appointed
+task, but for some years laboured on alone. In 1782, he mentions
+in a letter to a friend, “There is no white person in the
+congregation but myself. At St. John’s, thirty coloured persons
+receive the Lord’s Supper.”
+
+Assistance, however, was not so far off as he supposed. About
+this time an Irish family (who were all members of Mr. Wesley’s
+sect) were persuaded by an unprincipled captain of a trading
+vessel, to sell all their little property, and emigrate with him
+to America. Deceived by his plausible manners and fair speeches,
+they acquiesced in his proposals; and turning all their goods
+into money, the whole family, consisting of an elderly father and
+mother, a son, and some daughters, embarked on board his vessel,
+and sought with him their better fortune in a far-off land. But
+their false friend having inveigled them into his power, under
+various pretences, robbed them of their little all, and then
+deserted them, in a strange country. After suffering many and
+bitter privations, they found their way to Antigua, where they
+eventually became valuable assistants to Mr. Baxter.
+
+In the meantime, Mr. Baxter’s great object, the erection of a
+Methodist chapel in St. John’s, was rapidly being accomplished;
+and on the 8th of November, 1783, that worthy man, with an
+overflowing heart, had the happiness of preaching his first
+sermon in it, to a full and serious audience. In the space of the
+three following years, the society increased to 2000 persons.
+
+In 1786, Dr. Coke, the Wesleyan missionary and historian, left
+England, for the purpose of spreading gospel tidings in America.
+Meeting, however, with violent gales, the ship in which he took
+passage was unable to make her destined port; and after
+encountering a series of disasters, as a last and only resort,
+was obliged to put into Antigua, in distress. Dr. Coke was
+delighted to find the Wesleyan society in that island in so
+satisfactory a state—a circumstance he was unprepared for; and in
+his letters to England, expresses in warm terms his pleasure upon
+the subject.
+
+The first conference was held at Antigua, in the year 1787; but
+the annual conferences, or district meetings, were not
+established until 1793, when, on the returns being made, the
+society was found to consist of 6570 members; out of which there
+were 36 white, and 105 coloured persons. Although the Methodist
+society had progressed so far, and embraced so many members, yet
+its proceedings were reviled and insulted by the greater part of
+the white inhabitants. All kinds of petty insults were heaped
+upon its pastors; while their place of worship was made the scene
+of vulgar waggeries and ribald jests. One favourite amusement
+with many of the young men of that period was, to procure a live
+goat, and after hampering its legs, fling it into the midst of
+the assembly, while engaged at their devotion at the Methodist
+chapel. At other times, in order to vary the sport, the goat was
+secured against the chapel door; and as the minister pronounced
+the amen, or the members raised their hymns of praise to God, the
+poor animal was beat and kicked until it joined in chorus with
+its deep and unharmonious cries, which were received with bursts
+of applauding laughter by its foolish captors.
+
+Mr. Baxter, although a very _good_ man, was not, I have
+understood, possessed of very superior talents; and accordingly,
+many of his discourses produced much merriment among that class
+of persons who frequented his chapel for the sake of passing
+criticisms, as well as killing time. He had a favourite servant
+living with him, whose name was John Bott, and who attended to
+the lighting up of the chapel, as well as performing his home
+duties. Upon one occasion, John neglected to snuff the candles;
+an omission which caused his master so much uneasiness, that,
+after endeavouring in vain to read the portion of Scripture
+selected, he was fain to interrupt himself in the midst of a
+passage—“And Nathan said unto David—John Bott, snuff the
+candles!” This intervention, as may be supposed, caused a tumult
+of laughter; nor (said an ear-witness) could his own people
+restrain their risible faculties. But to return. About 1793, Dr.
+Coke paid Antigua another visit, and preached upon many
+plantations; one of which was Sir George Thomas’s, at North
+Sound. The old chapel at Parham was erected in 1802; the returns
+of the society made that year were, 4000 persons.
+
+The year 1805 was marked by the Methodists as that in which their
+friend and pastor, Mr. John Baxter, closed his mortal career,
+after a well-spent life—twenty-seven years of which he passed in
+Antigua.[82] He died November the 13th, 1805, and was interred in
+the churchyard of St. John’s; but if any stone marked the place
+of burial, time has obliterated the inscription, or else
+shattered the tomb. The visitor may look in vain for such a
+memento. It appears strange to me, that the Wesleyans of Antigua
+have never erected monuments to the memories of Mr. Gilbert and
+Mr. Baxter. I am sure there are members enough to do this; and it
+would be but paying a proper tribute of respect to the memories
+of those excellent men, and founders of that sect in this island.
+Perhaps, they may take the hint, and allow the walls of their
+handsome chapel to be graced with two neat marble tablets devoted
+to that purpose.
+
+But to proceed. Since Mr. Baxter’s death, the Wesleyan society
+has been rapidly progressing, not only in Antigua, but in all the
+other West India Islands, although Antigua is still looked upon
+as the parent church; and in 1842, the society in that island
+consisted of about 2700 members. Beside the chapel in St. John’s,
+they have places of worship at Parham, English Harbour,
+Willoughby Bay, and elsewhere.
+
+Thus, from a small beginning—from a few black slaves gathered
+together by night beneath the roof of a white man—this society
+has spread far and wide, like some huge wave, until now it boasts
+a vast increase of number, of every variety of shade, from the
+ruddy son of Britain, down to the jetty offspring of Afric’s
+soil. Great success has attended the preaching of this sect; and
+although an episcopalian myself, and consequently more attached
+to that form of worship, I cannot let the opportunity pass me
+without offering my mite of praise to the character of their
+undaunted and fervent ministers, tendering my hearty wishes for
+their further progress, and, at the same time, expressing my firm
+belief that they have, through God, been the means of preventing
+much crime, and saving many, very many, from the fearful
+retribution, the inevitable attendant on a misspent life.
+
+From this view of the Methodist Chapel and Methodism, I proceed
+to mention the Moravian settlement. The Moravians, or rather,
+“United Brethren,” as many of my readers may be aware, revived
+under the celebrated Count Zinzendorf, a native of Germany, who,
+with some of his followers, visited England in the reign of
+George II., and formed several settlements of their sect in
+different parts of that kingdom. They also established colonies
+in Greenland, Labrador, and other parts of North America, and in
+South America.
+
+In 1731, Count Zinzendorf visited Denmark, for the purpose of
+attending the coronation of Christian VI., who, by the death of
+his father, was called to the throne of that kingdom. During his
+residence at that court, some of his domestics became acquainted
+with a negro, named Anthony, from one of the Danish islands. This
+man related many instances of the moral darkness in which the
+West Indies were enveloped, and of the distressed state of the
+negroes; which being repeated to the count, he felt an invincible
+desire to send missionaries to that part of the world, to
+proclaim the “tidings of great joy” to those poor benighted
+negroes.
+
+In 1732, this desire was carried into effect; and two
+missionaries were despatched from “Herrnhutt,” (the principal
+Moravian station, in Lusatia, Germany,) to St. Thomas. Other
+missionaries followed them; and in 1733, they planted their
+standard in St. Croix. In 1754, the society in London sent
+missionaries to Jamaica, who were followed by some of the
+brethren from America; and in 1756, Samuel Isles, a true and
+exemplary Christian, came from St. Thomas, where he had been
+residing as missionary for eight years, and established the first
+Moravian settlement in Antigua.
+
+Their labour of love was at first very slow in its progress; but
+they succeeded, in 1761, in raising a chapel, for the
+accommodation of the negroes, on a spot of land, purchased for
+the purpose, in St. John’s. Still their society rather decreased
+than flourished, until, about 1768, there were only fourteen
+members in the church at St. John’s. Disheartening as these
+circumstances were, like true soldiers of the Cross, they would
+not lay down their arms; and at length, their faith and patience
+met with their reward. A wonderful revival took place, and in
+1775 “the number of their stated hearers amounted to 2000; and
+never a month elapsed without an addition to the church of ten or
+twenty by baptism.”
+
+By the year 1787, 5465 negroes were admitted into the church.
+Their first settlement was situated at St. John’s; but in 1782,
+they had formed another at Grace Hill, or, as it was first
+termed, Bailey Hill; a delightful spot, about ten miles from the
+capital. The number baptized at St. John’s, in 1789, was 507;
+while at Grace Hill, 217 were admitted into the church by that
+ceremony. By this time, five preachers were settled in Antigua;
+and in the course of the two following years, the society
+enrolled 7400 members. At the present period, 1842, the number
+may be estimated at 11,000.
+
+Their settlement at St. John’s is situated in Spring Gardens, at
+the extreme north end of the town, and looks the very picture of
+neatness and domestic comfort. The present chapel, erected in
+1773, is a plain building—devoid of any great architectural
+beauty, it is true, but interesting from its very simplicity, and
+from being built by the negroes in times of slavery. The rapid
+increase of their numbers, already mentioned, rendered it
+necessary to provide a larger place of worship; which fact being
+mentioned to their negro converts, they immediately commenced
+procuring some of the materials, by each bringing a few stones
+with them, when they came to their evening meetings in the week.
+Those of them who were masons and carpenters worked with the
+greatest energy “in their free hours, after their daily tasks
+were done; and those who could not assist in the labour provided
+victuals for the workmen.” Since that period, the chapel has had
+many enlargements and alterations made to it. The dwellings of
+the preachers are gathered around it; and their neat,
+cheerful-looking burying-ground, in which grows many a beautiful
+tree, bounds the settlement to the east. Everything about them
+looks green, and fresh, and lovely; and their wives, in their
+neat caps, and Quaker-like style of dress, and the often very
+pretty, but quiet contour of their features, appear in perfect
+harmony with the other parts of the picture. I must say, I like
+the Moravians: they seem to have so much open-heartedness about
+them—such patriarchal simplicity of manners. Among themselves
+they are ever kind and courteous, forming, as it were, one large
+family of affectionate brothers and sisters. They have done much
+good among the black race, for whose welfare the mission was
+particularly intended; and many happy deaths among them attest
+the truth. Besides their settlement in St. John’s, they have
+several in other parts of the island; namely, at Grace Hill,
+Grace Bay, Newfield, Cedar Hall, Lebanon, Gracefield, and Five
+Islands.
+
+Among their ministers, men of learning and talent may be found.
+Their superintendent, the Rev. Mr. H———, is a great biblical
+scholar, possessed of superior faculties, and a good nervous
+preacher; but some of their missionaries, although far from
+deficient in erudition, from being natives of Germany, and not
+thoroughly acquainted with the English language, are almost
+unintelligible to English ears. I cannot say I admire the singing
+part of their service; at a given signal they all seem to dart
+off at the highest pitch of their voices, and keep on without
+regard to time or melody. However, I understand they have also a
+seraphine for the use of their chapel, which may tend to modulate
+the discordant voices of their congregation.[83] I hope these
+last few remarks may not be understood as unkind or sarcastic.
+Far be it from me to scoff at _any sect_. True it is I note their
+peculiarities; but if founded on the conscientious belief of the
+propriety of their own form of worship, I would not raise a laugh
+at the fantastic movements of even the “Jumpers” or the “Shakers”
+by any animadversions of mine.
+
+The last and remaining edifice I have to mention, is the
+half-finished kirk of the Scotchmen. The foundation-stone of this
+place of worship was laid with the usual ceremonies by Sir Wm.
+Colebrooke, the late governor, on the 9th of April, 1839. It is
+situated upon an ascent on the eastern outskirts of the town, and
+from it may be seen many a lovely landscape, which Claude
+Lorraine would not have scorned to imitate. It progresses but
+slowly; but still it has been known for the tortoise to outrun
+the hare, and win the race, and therefore the Scotch kirk may yet
+exceed some of its contemporaries. In its present form I can say
+but little about it, except that the same fault cannot be found
+with it as there has been with the Methodist chapel—the small
+size of the windows—for the Scotch kirk appears to be all windows
+and doors. If, however, the Scotchman will make haste and finish
+the building, I will promise to write all about it; in the
+meantime, as I have already made this chapter of leviathan
+dimensions, I will make my courtesy, and—exit for the night.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[80] This social assemblage of “white” and “black” is one of the
+good effects of emancipation. Some years ago this dark-skinned
+race would have been kept from within the precincts of the walls
+by the point of a bayonet, as it was the custom on similar
+occasions to have a guard.
+
+[81] The dates of papers in most of these offices commence from
+1668, after Antigua was restored by the French, and Lord W.
+Willoughby settled in the government by his majesty Charles the
+Second.
+
+[82] Mr. Baxter gave up his situation in the dock-yard after the
+erection of the chapel in St. John’s, and removed to a small
+house erected in the chapel-yard, and continued to fill the
+office of the established minister until his death.
+
+[83] This is a misinformation. There is no seraphine in the
+chapel, but a small but very sweet-toned organ in the
+school-room. Upon a late visit to the chapel, however, I find
+that the congregation is very much improved in their style of
+singing.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XXI.
+
+
+
+  Morning—Institutions—Daily Meal Society—Its rise and progress—
+  Lazaretto—Destitute Females’ Friend Society—Its origin and
+  purpose—Friendly societies—Bible Society—Missionary
+  associations—Temperance Society—Juvenile Association—Ladies’
+  Clothing Society &c.—Banks—Library Society.
+
+Another morning is come—a bright glorious morning: the sky is as
+deeply blue as the breast of the kingfisher, except where here
+and there a snowy pyramid of clouds mounts slowly up the heavens.
+Through the open windows of my apartments, a rich flood of
+sunshine pours in, and plays upon the floor in many a fanciful
+chequer. The bright red flowers of the “Scarlet Cordia” hang in
+tasteful branches from among their broad green leaves, and
+attract the attention of the little humming-bird, who, in their
+changeful plumage, flit around, and rob the flowers of their
+liquid sweets. The breeze is as gentle as an infant’s sigh, a
+dreamy stillness is abroad, and—but what was that?—rain, I
+declare! A gloom has silently and suddenly overspread the sky;
+the late white-robed clouds have become covered with a darkened
+hue; the wind has raised its pipe; the rain comes pouring down,
+and chases away my feathered favourites. I can write no more of
+bright skies and glowing sunbeams, and therefore I must proceed
+in my task, which the beauty of the morning drove from my
+thoughts; and having already attempted a description of the
+buildings of St. John’s, I shall now endeavour to give some
+account of its institutions.
+
+The first to be placed upon the list, not from the number of
+years it has been established, but from its extent, is the Daily
+Meal Society, for information respecting which I am indebted to
+the Rev. Robert Holberton. This society, intended for the purpose
+of “supplying the sick and needy, of St. John’s and its
+neighbourhood with a daily meal,“ was established in the year
+1828, the management of its affairs being “undertaken by a
+committee of seven gentlemen in the town, (the present Speaker of
+the House of Assembly being the treasurer;) three of the clergy,
+(the Rev. Robt. Holberton being the secretary;) and five of the
+medical gentlemen.” They hold their meetings in the
+churchwarden’s office, and on the 18th of June, 1828, a female
+superintendent was appointed at a salary of 50l. currency per
+annum. A “soup-house” was erected in the yard attached to the
+superintendent’s dwelling to the east of the church, the land
+being allowed to the society, free of rent, for the space of
+seven years by the heirs of “Donovan’s Estate.” A ship’s boiler
+having been presented to the society, it was immediately put into
+requisition, and the first meal distributed the 2nd of August,
+1828, to thirty-six persons.
+
+Up to that time there was no parochial relief for any black or
+coloured person; and consequently, when the establishment of such
+a society became known, the sick and aged among those classes
+eagerly sought for shelter, and an alleviation of their
+distresses. The medical gentlemen of St. John’s having offered to
+attend gratuitously, in monthly rotation, the cry of these
+unfortunate people was responded to; and five small houses,
+adjoining the “soup-house,” having been first rented, and
+afterwards purchased by the society, fourteen of these afflicted
+ones were received and succoured. Many a poor outcast found his
+throbbing heart at rest when possessed of these humble
+accommodations; many a sufferer had his pains alleviated, and the
+oil of mercy poured into his wounds. Five or six successful
+amputations were also performed there during that early period.
+
+The rise and progress of this institution is so interesting, that
+I think I cannot do better than follow up the account of it, in
+the words of the Rev. Mr. Holberton, published in a “Brief
+Review:” “After the destructive hurricane of 1835, (when this
+society was found signally useful in furnishing a comfortable
+meal daily to the houseless poor,) the unappropriated residue of
+a grant from the legislature, for restoring some of the damaged
+houses of the poor of St. John’s, was handed over to the
+committee of the Daily Meal Society, with the understanding that
+shelter should be given to those whose houses were considered
+past repairing. This testimony of public confidence, together
+with a handsome private donation of 90l. sterling, occurring at
+the very time when the land on which the institution had stood
+for seven years was required by the owner, stimulated the
+committee to attempt to re-establish it on a more extensive
+scale.”
+
+Mr. Holberton proceeds to pass some high encomiums upon the Very
+Rev. the Archdeacon Parry (late of Antigua) for the great
+interest felt by him in the success of the society—encomiums, no
+doubt, richly his due; but the rector was necessitated to forego
+mentioning what it is in my power to do, that it was principally
+through his own kind heart, and from his deep Christian
+principles, which led him to exert every energy in its behalf,
+that the Daily Meal Society had its origin, and is in its present
+flourishing condition.
+
+Mr. H. proceeds: “Chiefly at his” (the archdeacon’s) “instance, a
+successful application was made to the legislature for a piece of
+land near the rectory, 300 feet long by 100 feet wide. This was
+enclosed with strong palisades, and within were erected a
+kitchen, or ‘soup-house,’ of stone, 30 feet long and 15 wide, a
+wooden house, 60 feet by 20 feet, divided into six apartments,
+capable of accommodating four persons in each. A well was also
+dug 24 feet deep, and four of the wooden houses which stood on
+the old site were transported to the new one. The expense of
+effecting these objects amounted to 1300l. currency, of which
+about 1000l. currency was raised by subscriptions. This
+establishment was opened on 8th March, 1837, under the name of
+the _Asylum_, and has been providentially raised up to meet, in
+the most satisfactory manner, the various cases of distress that
+have occurred since the general emancipation in 1834, and has
+effectually done away with begging in the streets of St. John’s.”
+
+As leprosy is a frequent disease among the negroes, and, from its
+contagious character, doubts had arisen upon the propriety of
+admitting persons suffering from that dreadful complaint into the
+asylum, it was determined in 1836 to open a subscription list for
+the purpose of erecting another building for their reception.
+That they might have the benefit of sea-air and sea-bathing, the
+site chosen for it was by the sea-side. This building was
+commenced in 1837, and “although, from want of funds, scarcely
+one of the two wings could be completed, admission was given to
+five leprous persons on the 25th of April in that year.” The
+society, however, “was compelled to declare that, without
+parochial allowances, the institution must fall to the ground.
+The claim to such help was at once seen to be most reasonable and
+highly needful, and the desired combination of _parochial_ with
+_voluntary_ relief was speedily effected. The legislature
+granting 600l. currency the following year, the debts were paid
+off, and the building finished and publicly opened under the
+title of the Lazaretto, on the 20th June, 1838.”
+
+The Lazaretto consists of “six rooms for females and six for
+males, capable of accommodating three in each, besides one small
+room for one person only. The enclosed yard has been, for the
+most part, converted into plots for provisions, and for keeping
+poultry in. Some bamboos have been planted, which will in time
+afford materials for making baskets, about which one of the men
+is industriously employed, and by the sale of his work contrives
+to purchase clothes for himself, at half-price, from the Ladies
+Clothing Society. All the inmates appear thankful and contented,
+and some have shewn a readiness to receive scriptural instruction
+that is very pleasing.” Poor creatures! some of them are, indeed,
+objects for the deepest commiseration, but their sufferings are
+alleviated as far as possible. Their residence is a delightful
+situation; the sea-breeze comes so pure from off the bosom of the
+ocean, that one would suppose disease must fly before it. From
+the farthest point of the land runs a causeway over to Rat
+Island, (the promontory already mentioned as being the site of
+one of the forts,) made about the year 1748, and which is
+passable at ebb-tide. Upon this promontory, which rises in the
+form of a steep mount, a lunatic asylum has been built during the
+past year, (1841,) the legislature having voted a sum for that
+purpose, for the use of such inmates of the institution as have
+shewn symptoms of aberration of mind.
+
+In 1838, the legislature gave a further grant of 500l. currency
+to the society, for the purpose of erecting “a separate ward for
+the male patients, with ten apartments capable of accommodating
+four persons in each,” in that part of the establishment situated
+near the rectory, which was finished and opened on the 15th July,
+1839. An iron tank, capable of holding 7000 gallons of water, has
+been imported from England, and placed in the yard of the same
+portion of the institution. In 1840, the title of the society was
+changed from that of “The Asylum” to “The Daily Meal Society’s
+Infirmary and Lazaretto,” by which latter designation it is now
+distinguished.
+
+This establishment is, indeed, the only infirmary and hospital in
+the island, (with the exception of the cast-iron hospital at the
+Ridge, near English Harbour, for the use of the troops;) and not
+only the destitute poor of St. John’s, but the poor from all the
+other parishes are admitted into it, as well as distressed and
+destitute sailors. The best medical attendance is procured for
+them; wine and other strengthening nourishment administered to
+the sick; and three wholesome meals allowed to each individual
+per day. Bedsteads and bedding are also supplied, there being “in
+the female ward six, and in the male ward ten furnished
+apartments, ready for the reception of patients at the shortest
+notice.”
+
+Nor are these the _only_ accommodations this inestimable charity
+affords to the poor and distressed of our species, there being
+seven detached houses on the opposite side of the inclosure,
+capable of containing two, three, or four persons in each. “In
+these separate dwellings infirm persons are distributed, whose
+complaints, habits, or tempers, render it expedient that they
+should be kept by themselves. One house, fronting the
+burial-ground, is reserved for the reception of the dead previous
+to interment, and is used for a dissecting room when required.
+Eighty inmates can be comfortably accommodated at the infirmary.”
+The income for the last year, (1841,) including subscriptions,
+donations, legacies, and parochial relief, was 1361l. 0s. 4½d.
+currency, the expenditure, 1225l. 4s. 4d.; the latter sum would
+have been of greater extent was it not from the kindness of many
+of the Antiguan proprietors, in presenting each a barrel or two
+of sugar.
+
+Thus have I gone with Mr. Holberton through the “rise and
+progress of the Daily Meal Society.” Perhaps some of the truly
+charitable inhabitants of dear old England may be induced to send
+their mite across the waters in aid of this society, of whose
+existence they may probably not have been hitherto aware; and as
+I knew it was out of my power to use more cogent language—
+language which speaks to the heart—nor advocate the cause so well
+as our excellent rector, I have therefore quoted so largely from
+his “brief review,” feeling assured he will pardon me, and hoping
+my readers will bear with me. In conclusion, I will once more use
+his words and say—“It is undeniable that the hand of God has been
+over it to sustain it in its small beginning, to uphold it in
+every difficulty, and to raise it to its present prosperity. To
+God, then, be all the praise; and may the success with which He
+has been pleased to crown the exertions of the society provoke
+every member and friend of it to increasing diligence in these
+works of charity, for which there will still be a continual
+call.”
+
+The next charitable institution to be mentioned is “the Destitute
+Females’ Friend Society,” or, as it is now termed, “the Female
+Orphan Society.” This latter title is, however, a misnomer, for
+but few of the inmates are orphans in the true sense of the word,
+they being, but with few exceptions, the illegitimate children of
+black or coloured women, (by white or coloured persons,) whose
+parents, still alive, are, from penury, incompetent to maintain
+them, or are living in a state of concubinage, and consequently
+not proper guides to youth.
+
+This society, which is invaluable, and is well known in England
+by its first name, although, perhaps, lost sight of in its
+modernized title, was established about the year 1816. The origin
+of it was as follows:—
+
+“The attention of a few pious and benevolent individuals of the
+female sex was called to the situation of an indigent class of
+coloured children of their own sex, (for whom there was then no
+parochial relief;) and witnessing with feelings of poignant
+regret their moral and religious degradation still more than
+their bodily necessities, they were impelled to exert, in
+connexion with a few other friends, all their united energies for
+the amelioration of the condition of these unhappy children, and
+thereby lessen the evils resulting to the community in general
+from a generation growing up without religious or moral
+cultivation. To effect these desirable objects, it was resolved
+to make an immediate and bold attempt.
+
+“The attempt was bold, because it could not be carried into
+execution by persons circumscribed in their means of doing it
+without the concurrence and aid of others like-minded, and of
+whose co-operation they were not assured. Encouraged, however, by
+one whose heart devised liberal things, though possessing himself
+little power to accomplish them from his own resources, but
+favoured with influence over some who considered themselves as
+stewards appointed by God to benefit their fellow creatures, and
+assured by him of competent aid from England, if it could not be
+obtained in Antigua, a commencement was made by a few
+subscribers, chiefly respectable coloured persons; and several
+children were immediately taken to be clothed, fed, and
+instructed; and when the plan was made known to the community at
+large, and to other benevolent individuals in England and
+Scotland, the society, by their generous assistance, grew into
+its present state of maturity. Such was its origin, and we cannot
+but observe in it the benefit resulting from a social compact to
+do good to our fellow creatures—the design to rescue from the
+paths of the destroyer, and to train in those of piety, industry,
+and useful occupation, the objects of their care. The success,
+though not in every instance unfailing, has been considerable. A
+few, there is reason to hope, are where sin and sorrow cannot
+enter. Others, as useful domestics, or conductors of their own
+households, testify to the truth of the fact.
+
+“Three of the elder girls have been sent into creditable
+situations, with a prospect of comfort to themselves and
+usefulness to their employers. Four more have been admitted to
+fill their places. Seventeen are now in the house. The committee
+would not arrogate to themselves any undue merit; but they
+gratefully receive the meed of approbation awarded to them by the
+frequent application they have for the admittance of children,
+and for girls to fill the place of servants.”
+
+I have quoted so largely from the reports of the society (1841)
+for two reasons—first, because the committee are, and of course
+ought to be, better acquainted with its proceedings than myself;
+and secondly, because its details are related with a striking
+simplicity of style, which must speak to every breast not devoid
+of the “milk of human kindness,” and I am sure no words of mine
+would be able to influence further the minds of those benevolent
+persons who, through the medium of these pages, may become
+acquainted with its existence, and feel wishful of adding a
+trifle to the funds of this invaluable society.
+
+That it is an invaluable charity none can deny, for it strikes to
+the root of all West Indian misery—_illicit love_; and what can
+be more acceptable to “the community at large” than the
+endeavouring to inculcate into the minds of its youthful members
+the doctrines of chastity and diligence in well-doing? The
+twenty-sixth anniversary of this society was held on the 31st
+December, 1841. The children, inmates of the house, are taught
+reading, writing, and arithmetic, and are instructed in all the
+arts of female plain-work,—straw-bonnet sewing and cleaning
+forming one branch of their employment. Their earnings for the
+last year were 107l. 0s. 7½d. currency, out of which, 5l. 13s.
+10½d. had to be deducted for materials to carry on their
+different works. The matron receives a salary of 60l. currency
+per annum, and the children are clothed and boarded, and have
+medical attendance found them; and when death sends forth its
+summons, and any of the inmates fall a prey to its inevitable
+shafts, their last resting-place is provided, and the funeral
+expenses paid.
+
+The next institutions worthy of mention are the town and country
+“Friendly Societies.” They are formed upon a similar plan to some
+of the “poor men’s clubs” in England, and prove of great
+assistance to the members in times of sickness and trial. The St.
+John’s Friendly Society was established in 1829, under the
+auspices of that zealous minister, the Rev. R. Holberton, and was
+intended to promote good feelings among the lower classes, to
+assist them in procuring articles of mourning, aid them in times
+of deep distress, help those incapable of helping themselves, and
+encourage sobriety and industry among them.
+
+After the abolition of slavery, in 1834, many of the negroes
+removing from the estates to which they formerly belonged, and
+other estates not finding medical advice for their labourers, as
+in times of slavery, it was found necessary to enlarge the rules
+of the society; and by increasing the amount subscribed by every
+member, provide them with a doctor when ill, a certain sum per
+week during indisposition, and upon demise twelve dollars for the
+funeral expenses.
+
+The first country Friendly Society was established in 1832; but
+since that period they have rapidly increased. “In 1834,” remarks
+Mr. Holberton, “there were eleven societies, with 1602 members;
+in 1835, 4197 members; in 1836, 4560 members.” The Moravians and
+Wesleyans have each their Friendly Societies, formed and
+conducted upon a similar plan.
+
+On the first of January, 1842, I visited St. John’s church, to
+hear the anniversary sermon preached to the society. The members
+met at the parochial school-room, where they formed into a
+procession, the women first, and the men following behind, and
+marched to the church, headed by the Very Rev. the Archdeacon,
+the Rev. Mr. Holberton, the rector, the Rev. Mr. Piggott, and the
+Rev. Mr. Saulez. The morning service having been performed, and a
+very suitable and excellent sermon preached by the Rev. Mr.
+Piggott, the members again formed into ranks, and marched back to
+the school-room, where the report of the society was read, short
+addresses made, and refreshments handed round, when the whole
+party dispersed. I could not help remarking the smart appearance
+of the members—such rainbow ribbons, and stylish bonnets—such
+parasols and sandals—such blue coats and white trowsers!—as made
+their appearance on that day would surprise any one.
+
+The next society, which by-the-bye ought to have been mentioned
+first, as being the oldest in the island, is the Bible Society,
+organized in 1815. It is comprised of every sect and shade in the
+island, and its interests are managed by an efficient committee.
+After the abolition of slavery in 1834, the parent society sent a
+“munificent grant, by which a choice portion of the Holy
+Scriptures was gratuitously circulated to about one-third of the
+inhabitants of this colony. Nine thousand seven hundred copies of
+the New Testament, bound together with the Book of Psalms, were
+thus placed at the disposal of the committee.”
+
+The remaining societies are the “Missionary Associations”
+connected with the Wesleyan mission, established in 1820, and
+intended for the purpose of raising funds for the parent society
+in England. The “Temperance Society,” introduced into Antigua in
+the year 1836; the “Juvenile Association,” established 1815; the
+“Ladies Clothing Society,” (or Dorcas Society,) and two other
+associations belonging to the established church, and known as
+the “Society for the Promotion of Christian Knowledge,” and the
+“Branch Association of the Society for the advancing the
+Christian Faith in the British West Indies, &c.” The Moravians
+have also a Missionary society, established in 1839.
+
+Having now gone through the charitable institutions, I must
+proceed to mention the “Banks,” of which there are two in the
+island—the “Colonial Bank,” incorporated by royal charter, 1836;
+and the “West Indian Bank,” in 1840. The first of these banks
+issues a very neat note, (from five dollars [1l. sterling] and
+upwards,) bearing a lithographed representation of the royal
+arms, and encircled with a very prettily designed border; but the
+“West Indian” disseminates the most frightful “paper money” I
+ever witnessed. Some of their notes are _red_, and others _blue_;
+who was the designer of the “arms” which grace the head of them I
+know not, but they appear to be in direct opposition to all laws
+of heraldry. The shield (of an oblong figure) is divided into
+_three_ quarterings: 1st, or, an eagle (apparently) sable,
+beaked, rising from the sea; 2nd, gules, a ship full-rigged,
+argent; 3rd, azure, a castle, argent, battled. The supporters are
+two dwarfish cocoa-nut trees, (palm?) apparently springing from
+the same root as their companions, two gigantic pine-apples; the
+whole surmounted by the crown of England. With regard to the
+benefit which the establishment of these banks has rendered the
+country, various opinions have been formed.
+
+After the “Banks,” the only remaining institution to be mentioned
+is the “Antigua Library Society,” which according to its “rules
+and regulations,” is devoted to “the gradual formation of a
+permanent library of general literature, and the establishment,
+in connexion with the library, of a reading-room, to be furnished
+with newspapers, journals, pamphlets, periodicals, and other new
+publications.”
+
+Now it is well known that we live in an age of puffing, as well
+as steaming, and it may be imagined by some, that these caterers
+for intellectual sweets have fallen short of their promises. Not
+so, kind readers; take my word for it there are few better
+organized societies of the kind to be met with, or whose
+well-filled shelves bear a richer burden. Books to suit every
+taste (and every _age_ I might say—for our friend “Peter Parley”
+displays there the hidden treasures of the “earth, the sea, and
+skies,” to the delight of the youthful reader,) may be found in
+this Library Society. Theological, metaphysical, biographical,
+historical, and lighter works, abound. Poetry is not excluded;
+our own sweet bards, from good old Chaucer, that “father of
+English poetry,” down to the soft strains of Mrs. Hemans, or L.
+E. L., rank among its selections.
+
+Of modern works there are no end. There, the irresistible charms
+of that “Wizard of the North,” the late Sir Walter Scott, with
+his “Jenny Deans;” his high-minded “Flora McIvor;” his
+unfortunate “Bride of Lammermoor,” and all his other “gentle
+dames” and “lordly knights,” are displayed before the enraptured
+reader. There Marryat amuses with his _naïveté_, and those
+stirring incidents of a sailor’s life, he knows so well to
+picture. There, “Boz” carries you perforce from the hut to the
+castle, and makes you weep or laugh in each. There are Bulwer and
+Ainsworth, who draw their gentlemen-ruffians in such a guise as
+to lead one to admire even a housebreaker or highwayman; Cooper,
+who makes us long to lead the life of a backwood’s-man; James,
+with his darling peeps at “by-gone days;” the dear Miss Mitford
+and Mary Howitt, whose simple annals and sylvan scenes almost
+bring before us the lovely fields and sweet flowers of England;
+Mrs. Gore, with all her pageantries; Mrs. Trollope, with her
+playful but keen sarcasms; the Countess of Blessington, with her
+elegant diction and pure imagery, as lovely as her own sweet
+form; with many other authors of note, are equally at the command
+of the subscribers to this Antiguan bibliotheca.
+
+This society has been established for many years, but it was not
+incorporated by an act of the legislature until 1839, during the
+government of Sir Wm. Colebrooke. The members are elected by
+ballot, and after subscribing for ten years, they become free of
+the library, retaining all the privileges without being called
+upon for payment.
+
+The library is kept in the upper part of a large house, well
+adapted for the purpose, consisting as it does of two good sized
+apartments, with library tables, covered with respectable green
+cloth, and pamphlets of all sorts and sizes; the sides of the
+room are lined with bookcases. Altogether it is an admirable
+society, and I strenuously advise all inhabitants of Antigua,
+whose ideas are not absolutely tied down to “profit and loss,” to
+become members; they cannot spend their spare money more
+agreeably, nor while away their leisure to better purpose.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXII.
+
+
+
+  Early rising and “Jamie Thomson”—Journey to English Harbour—
+  Windmills and Don Quixote—Groups of negroes and their equipages
+  —All Saints’ chapel of ease—The “Hamlet”—Village of Liberta—
+  Grace Hill—Patterson’s and Prince William—English Harbour
+  market—Streets and dwellings—Commissariat’s store and
+  government tank—Dockyard—The superintendent—Stores and
+  storehouses—Engineer’s workshop—Blacksmith’s shop and blowing
+  machine—Limes and roses—Recollections of England—Lieutenant
+  Peterson and Lord Camelford—His lordship’s pranks—The ordnance—
+  Clarence House and Dows Hill—The Ridge and “Shirley heights”—
+  Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley—Bats Cave—The Savannah and its
+  tombs—Indian Creek—Return to town.
+
+The church clock proclaimed the hour of five, as a gentle rap
+came at my chamber door. Awakened from a pleasant dream, I
+started from my couch, and heard with something like vexation,
+that it was time to dress, in order to prosecute our intended
+journey to English Harbour.
+
+Beautiful as is the breath of “early morn,” still there is
+something very disagreeable in leaving your comfortable bed, and
+it may be, your gorgeous dreams, for the dull realities of life,
+and the necessary, but irksome duties of the toilet. I know I
+shall be cried down by all lovers of Nature for my unsentimental
+remarks. Thomson, enraptured with his subject “of early rising,”
+exclaims with all a poet’s fervour—
+
+    Falsely luxurious, will not man awake,
+    And, springing from the bed of sloth, enjoy
+    The cool, the fragrant, and the silent hour,
+    To meditation due and sacred song?
+    For is there aught in sleep can charm the wise?
+    To lie in dead oblivion, losing half
+    The fleeting moments of too short a life—
+    Total extinction of th’ enlighten’d soul!
+    Or else to feverish vanity alive,
+    Wilder’d, and tossing through distemper’d dreams,
+    Who would in such a gloomy state remain
+    Longer than nature craves—when every muse
+    And every blooming pleasure wait without,
+    To bless the wildly devious morning walk.”
+
+Now, all this sounds very pretty—very romantic indeed; and we
+begin to fancy the poet amid some “bosky dell,” or upland lawn,
+his shoes liberally bedewed with those glittering gems, which
+“hang in every cowslip’s bell,” and his unpowdered locks
+streaming behind him in the morning gale. But stay, gentle
+reader! hast thou not heard that Thomson was himself a very
+sluggard, and loved his warm bed far better than any sylvan scene
+he could so well describe? And in truth, many and many a poet,
+even to “Joanna Bailey,” the morning rhymester, has been of the
+same mind. Then, why should I not tell the truth, and own my
+sloth—although at the same time, when once abroad, no one feels
+the nameless “melodies of morn” more than I do.
+
+But to resume my subject: the incidents of a day’s journey to
+English Harbour. After partaking of a light breakfast, and
+quaffing of that cup “which cheers, but not inebriates,” we
+stepped into the phaeton, and drove through the town, leaving our
+friends in “Scotch-row” busily employed in arranging their
+incongruous goods to the best advantage.
+
+The day was very favourable to our undertaking, for it was fine,
+but overcast. The sun was robbed of his extreme lustre by the
+intervention of various clouds, which passed along the sky in
+many beautiful forms. Some dark as ebon night; others of a
+silverish grey; the eastern ones tinged with gold and purple;
+while some again looked so white and fleecy, that you could fancy
+them so many snow-wreaths spread out upon an ocean of blue. The
+lights and shadows, too, of the far mountains, with all their
+blended tints, were beautiful objects in the landscape; and the
+occasional sight of a herd or two of cattle, standing in their
+usual dreamy posture, completed the picture. We passed several
+windmills (used in grinding the sugar-cane) with their sails
+unfurled, and going round merrily in the breeze; but unlike Don
+Quixote, I took them not for so many giants, nor wished myself a
+knight-errant, that I might rescue the “beautiful and high-born
+damsels” from their clutches.
+
+The road to English Harbour is, however, for the most part dull
+and uninteresting; only here and there a pretty prospect attracts
+the eye. But on this day (Monday[84]) it was rendered more
+cheerful by the groups of negroes, who, of every age and sex,
+were coming into town to purchase their weekly stores. Baskets,
+trays, and boxes—all kinds of vessels, indeed—were placed in
+critical positions upon their heads; but this appeared to cause
+no impediment to their ambling gait, while the chatter and song
+among themselves, and the smile and courtesy as they passed us,
+with the accustomed “How d’ye, massa?” “How d’ye, missis?” shewed
+that they considered their errand as one of pleasure rather than
+of toil. Carts were also put into requisition by the more
+extensive purchasers; some drawn by a ragged Canadian pony,
+similar to the little Sheltie breed; others by a tall
+grim-looking American horse, with its bones sticking out as bare
+as “Rozinante’s;” and others again dragged along by a slight-made
+Creole, its mane and tail the colour of flax. Cattle carts were
+also bringing in loads of sugar, drawn by six miserable-looking
+oxen two abreast, their poor necks weighed down by the heavy
+wooden yokes.
+
+In one part of the road we passed All Saints’ chapel of ease,
+belonging to the parish of St. John’s. It is a very plain
+building, surmounted by a gothic pinnacle, answering the purpose
+of a steeple, with an aperture in the middle, intended, I
+suppose, for the admission of a bell.
+
+After passing a ruined estate, where the long grass grew upon the
+walls of a roofless building, once used as a boiling house, and
+accomplishing a steep descent, and one or two abrupt turnings in
+the road, we came to a cluster of houses, known by the title of
+“the hamlet.” Many of these rural dwellings are very neatly built
+of native stone; and their little gardens appear to be well
+stocked with the country produce, such as potatoes, peas, eddoes,
+arrowroot, &c. A short distance from the hamlet is another
+similar collection of dwellings, bearing the name of “the village
+of Liberta,” (as a painted board informed us,) and equally
+abundant in its bright green patches of edibles. The emancipation
+of the negroes, and their desire to possess a portion of the soil
+in perpetuity, gave rise to these villages, of which there are
+many in different parts of the island. Here they erect small
+houses, and plant ground provisions. Some of these little
+dwellings are very neatly constructed, being raised a little
+distance from the ground, and the front door graced with a flight
+of steps and a small portico, while the open windows are
+furnished with white curtains.
+
+Adjoining the “village of Liberta,” lies the Moravian settlement
+of Grace Hill, snugly ensconced in its leafy fence, and, like
+other settlements of the kind in this island, breathing an air of
+happy tranquillity.
+
+Leaving Grace Hill, and travelling on some distance, we arrived
+at an estate called Patterson’s, belonging to the Hon. John
+Athill, and celebrated in Antiguan history, as being the spot
+where the murder of the governor’s child was perpetrated,
+(already narrated in the legend of Ding a Ding Nook,) on the
+occasion of the abduction of his lady in 1640. The “great house”
+upon this estate was honoured by a visit from our late lamented
+monarch, William IV., who in 1798 passed a night there.
+
+We here once again came within sight of the sea, which greatly
+added to the attractions of the scene, while on our left hand
+rose Monk’s Hill, surmounted by its fortifications, and strewed
+in some parts with ruined Carib’s houses. Passing through the
+town of Falmouth, we gained a kind of marsh, dotted over with
+clumps of aquatic shrubs, and here and there opening to the sea,
+and in a few moments entered the village of “English Harbour.”
+The market is just at its entrance, and consisted, upon the day
+we visited it, of about ten or twelve persons, squatting on the
+ground, and having before them shallow wooden trays, containing a
+few country vegetables, a miserable-looking chicken or two, a few
+strings of strong-scented fish, a store of sun-burnt bread, and
+other similar luxuries!
+
+The houses are in general of very mean construction, and
+destitute of paint. There are, however, some very pleasant
+residences belonging to the crown, from which beautiful sea-views
+may be obtained; for the village is built along the margin of the
+sea, and in some parts the waves come rippling up to the very
+street, and wet the feet of the passengers. Dogs and ducks were
+enjoying themselves in the water,—the former dashing in and out,
+and rolling in the sand, while the latter, with their eyes almost
+closed, were resting upon their glassy couch, in all the luxury
+of idleness.
+
+Before entering the dockyard, we passed the commissariat stores;
+and on the opposite side of the road, a large tank, capable of
+containing 240 tons of water, built by the legislature for the
+use of the shipping, but from which the inhabitants of the
+village are allowed to draw water, the dockyard being so well
+supplied with those necessary reservoirs. This tank bears many a
+sculptured name; among the rest, that of “Nelson,” that
+laurel-crowned hero, who visited Antigua in 1784.[85]
+
+A pair of strong, well-secured gates guard the entrance to the
+dockyard; which being thrown open, we drove in, and alighted at
+the office of the superintendant of the establishment,
+preparatory to inspecting the accommodations of the place.
+
+The dockyard consists of two separate departments. The first,
+since entitled St. Helena, was commenced in 1726, during the
+administration of John Hart, Esq., and at the suggestion of Capt.
+Francis Cooper, commander of H. M. S. “Lynn,” and Capt. Arthur
+Del Garno, commander of H. M. S. “South Sea Castle.” These
+experienced and clever naval officers saw the advantage of having
+proper wharfs, &c. for careening ships in Antigua, instead of
+being obliged to despatch the vessels appointed to this station,
+to the northern colonies, when any repairs were necessary, as
+they had before been in the practice of doing. The land chosen,
+as being most applicable to the purpose, consisted of two
+portions, of ten acres each, which in 1718 had been granted to
+Joseph Green, and William Greatrix, privates in H.M. troops,
+disbanded in consequence of the cessation of war. These lands
+were, however, forfeited to the crown by the non-settlement of
+them, by the grantees; and they were consequently appropriated to
+the purpose of establishing a dockyard, which is now not to be
+equalled in this part of the globe.
+
+This establishment having proved of such advantage to Antigua,
+and the rest of the Leeward Islands, his majesty, George II.,
+ordered that another wharf, with magazines, stores, and other
+appendages, should be constructed. Accordingly, in 1743, a tract
+of land was purchased from Thomas Bodkin; five acres of which was
+to be appropriated for the site of the new naval buildings; and
+the remainder to be allotted to poor white settlers, at the
+discretion of the commander-in-chief, the council, and assembly
+of Antigua. Such was the origin of the village of English
+Harbour, which, on account of being principally crown property,
+is disfranchised.
+
+The dockyard presents a fine and noble appearance; and under the
+able superintendence of Joseph Hart, Esq., everything seems to be
+conducted in the best possible manner; while the yard itself is
+kept so beautifully clean, that a walk through it affords real
+pleasure. The exertions of Mr. Hart may perhaps be better
+appreciated when it is considered that only six labourers are
+allowed him to perform all necessary duties; and that these men
+are also liable to be called upon by the pilot, at a moment’s
+notice, whenever that officer is employed in piloting vessels of
+war in or out of the harbour.
+
+The storehouses upon St. Helena are principally used for storing
+coals, and in consequence, her majesty’s steam-vessels frequent
+more that side of the dock. The largest ships of war (that visit
+these seas) can go alongside this wharf when necessary.
+
+On the south of St. Helena lies “Freeman’s Bay,” where such of H.
+M. vessels as are intended to remain but a short time generally
+anchor; the offing being more readily gained from thence than
+when further in.
+
+The last-erected part of this naval establishment, or “the
+dockyard,” as it is more generally called, is separated from St.
+Helena by the blue waters of the dock, and contains various
+buildings, of which I shall first mention the commissioner’s
+room, and pay offices, (under one roof,) as that was the first
+place I visited. The commissioner’s room is a very pleasant
+apartment, with windows to the east and west, and folding-doors
+to the south opening upon a small stone terrace, with a flight of
+steps leading to the wharf beneath. From this terrace a
+delightful view may be obtained. St. Helena lies exactly
+opposite, its warehouses reflected in the clear, blue sea, which
+flows at your feet; on your left, Clarence House, and the
+adjacent country; while, on your right, the mouth of the harbour,
+guarded with its forts, and the blue ocean, with its snowy
+crested waves, blends with the sky in the distance. In the
+apartment itself are considerable quantities of Psalters and New
+Testaments, designed, I suppose, for the use of the naval seamen;
+but those annoying pests, the cock-roaches, have made sad work
+with the bindings. Leaving this room, we walked into the pay
+offices, divided by blue railings, into the commissioner’s
+office, master shipwright’s office, master attendant’s office,
+and storekeeper’s office; as the several white-lettered
+inscriptions informed me. These paying offices are all contained
+in one apartment, measuring about 8 feet by 4 feet. They must not
+be corpulent persons who occupy them, or they will be less at
+their ease than poor “Hudibras” was in the “Wooden Bastile.”
+
+Descending another flight of stone steps, we crossed part of the
+yard, and arrived at the naval officers’ quarters, a very
+pleasant and handsome building, along which runs a pretty
+verandah, commanding a similar view to that obtained from the
+terrace of the commissioner’s room. Underneath these quarters, is
+the principal tank, divided into twelve compartments, and capable
+of containing 1000 tuns of water. From this tank pipes pass
+under-ground, to the edge of the wharf, (a distance of a hundred
+feet,) which being furnished with a cock, the water can be turned
+into the casks at pleasure; or, when in great haste, another pipe
+is fixed from thence into the hold of the ship, which in this
+manner receives its proper allowance of water, at a distance of
+100 feet from shore.
+
+A few paces from the officers’ quarters, stands a large building,
+100 feet by 90 feet, used as a copper, steamer’s, and lumber
+store; attached to which are four semi-circular tanks, capable of
+holding ten tuns of water each. Passing from this, we came to the
+cordage, sail, canvass, and clothing store, of a similar size;
+and opposite to which, at the distance of about ten feet, is the
+working mast-house, (100 feet square,) and joiners’ loft above.
+In this building a party of men were busily employed in making a
+new mast for H. M. schooner, “Fair Rosamond,” which, having met
+with an accident, a few days before, had put into Antigua to
+repair. Parallel with this building is another working
+mast-house, and joiners’ loft above, of similar dimensions to the
+former, used also for the accommodation of the yard engines.
+
+Peeping into a snug little box, called the porter’s lodge, and
+passing the guard house, store for condemned articles, and paint
+store, we entered the boat-house. By this time the sun had gained
+its meridian height, and poured a blaze of light over the whole
+yard, which, reflected from the white, sandy ground, dazzled my
+eyes with its powerful radiance, and oppressed me with its
+excessive heat. As I entered then this building, how delightful
+did its cooling air strike upon me!—how sweet was the breeze
+which passed over my brow, and allayed its throbbing! while the
+gentle plash of the water sounded most musically to the ear. One
+part of the boat-house is floored; the other has a channel cut in
+it to the depth of 18 feet, for the admission of the water. The
+roof is supported by 16 round stone pillars, of 12 feet in
+circumference; and above is a loft, where ships’-sails are kept.
+Leaving the boat-house, we entered the tar and block stores,
+where we found a part of the crew of the “Fair Rosamond” employed
+in making _spun-yarn_, used for the purpose of lashing, &c.
+
+About 20 feet distant, is a building containing painter’s cabin
+for grinding paint, and the engineer’s office, beneath is a lead
+cellar. We next visited the engineer’s workshop, where we were
+agreeably entertained with seeing the cutting and punching
+machine put into motion. I am not engineer enough to describe
+this machine in a technical manner, and must therefore only
+remark that, by means of an oblong wheel, if I may be allowed the
+expression, worked by two men, it is capable of cutting through
+the thickest piece of cold iron, with the same ease and quickness
+a person would cut a scrap of paper, and at the same time,
+punching holes of about the diameter of a shilling through
+another piece of the same metal. We also saw a turning-lathe
+capable of turning any description of iron from three inches to
+28 in diameter. There were also innumerable machines, of other
+forms, and for various purposes, which were put into motion for
+our amusement; and a piece of the iron, which had been cut and
+punched in divers figures, was tendered to me—a memento of an
+engineer’s workshop in a West Indian dockyard.
+
+The next place we entered was one more suited to a hyperborean
+climate than an Antiguan noonday—a blacksmith’s shop. Here, six
+forges can be worked; and several Cyclops ply their skill amid
+their dingy implements. To these forges, immense bellows “turned
+their iron mouths,” and, impelled by swarthy hands, sent forth a
+shower of glittering sparks. We also saw, two patent blowing
+machines, manufactured by “Thomas, late Halley and Co.,” which,
+by a peculiar arrangement, propels the blast upwards and
+downwards at the same time. The master blacksmith worked them for
+a few moments, but informed us they had not so much power as the
+first pair of bellows we observed upon our entrance, which, from
+its magnitude, ought to be called the “King of the Bellows.” He
+bid us place ourselves before the mouth of this last-mentioned
+pair, and we should be convinced of the truth of his assertions;
+but as I felt no wish to be blown away in a gale of ashes, I
+declined the invitation, humbly subscribing to his superior
+knowledge in such matters. I could not help thinking, that had
+Eolus known the use of these “blowing-machines,” what a far more
+powerful wind he might have raised, than (as it is pictured he
+did) by employing the sons of Astræus to blow so painfully with
+their distended cheeks amid his mighty caverns.
+
+Leaving the blacksmith’s shop, we passed the sawpit shed and
+smaller tank, and the shipwright’s house, and then turning an
+acute angle, came to a very pleasant residence, occupied by the
+superintendent of the yard, Mr. Hart. Here I met with some of my
+favourite lime-trees, their pearly flowers redolent with perfume.
+Mr. Hart kindly plucked for us some of the golden fruit; and
+afterwards presented, what was dearer to me, from the
+recollections they call up, three beautiful roses.[86] I may be
+laughed at for being so fanciful, but I never see a rose, I never
+inhale its rich fragrance, without wandering in imagination
+through the flowery gardens of my own land. “Oh! England, my own
+dear country! never did one of thy children love thee better than
+I do! In the midst of sickness, in the midst of suffering—when
+the fervour of a tropical sun burns through my very frame, and
+the climate throws its languor around me—my mind still reverts to
+thy verdant fields, I see again thy hawthorn-hedges with all
+their snowy blossoms, thy carpeting of lovely lowly flowers,—I
+breathe thy countless odours,—I hear thy sweet-toned birds, or
+the soft chime of thy village bells, and feel upon ‘my very cheek
+thy bland and healthy breeze.’”
+
+But to return to Mr. Hart and his roses. I kept them through the
+hot day, bore them in safety to my home, and they now stand
+before me. But, alas! their beauty is all gone,—their discoloured
+leaves seem to mourn their own dishonour; and only that “the
+scent of the roses hangs round it still,” I should scarcely know
+what the vase contains.
+
+After resting in a cool apartment for some time, and taking a
+glass of lemonade which Pomona herself would not have refused,
+the carriage was ordered to the door, and we were in the act of
+stepping in, when it occurred to us that this was a good
+opportunity to visit the spot where Lieut. Peterson received his
+death wound.
+
+I have already mentioned, in the historical part of this work,
+this unfortunate incident, but, with the permission of my
+readers, I must again allude to it. At the time of the
+occurrence, Lord Camelford commanded the “Favourite,” sloop of
+war, and Commodore Fahie the ship “Perdrix,” Mr. Peterson holding
+the rank of first lieutenant on board the last-named vessel.
+Commodore Fahie had left Antigua a short time before, to take
+temporary command of the fleet, then anchored before St.
+Kitts,[87] and during his absence, Lieutenant Peterson was, of
+course, left in command of the “Perdrix.”
+
+It was the custom, in those troubled days of warfare, for boats
+to row backwards and forwards across the harbour during the hours
+of night, the sailors of the different ships in the dock, headed
+by one of their officers, taking it by turns to keep this watch;
+and the sleeper might often be roused from his dreams as the
+deep-toned _all’s well_ resounded through the still night air.
+
+Lord Camelford and Lieutenant Peterson were unhappily at
+variance; and, perhaps to mortify his rival, Lord Camelford
+ordered Mr. Peterson to take the watch upon the very evening that
+a gay ball was to be given at Blacks Point to the naval officers.
+Unfortunately Lieutenant Peterson entertained the idea that as he
+was in command of the _ship_ “Perdrix,” in the absence of
+Commodore Fahie, he was superior officer to Lord Camelford, who
+only commanded a sloop; and, in consequence of this false
+impression, he positively refused to obey his lordship’s orders.
+
+The disastrous evening approached, and the lieutenant retired to
+his quarters above the capstan-house, in order to dress for the
+festive party. Arming himself with a pair of loaded pistols, and
+telling his boat’s crew to attend him, Lord Camelford quitted his
+retirement, and stationed himself directly between the capstan
+house and the guard house, (now called the commissioner’s house,)
+and there waited the approach of Mr. Peterson, whom he had
+already summoned to attend him.
+
+Upon the unfortunate young officer making his appearance,
+accompanied by some of his friends, his lordship again commanded
+him to take charge of the watch for the evening—the command was
+again refused—when, taking one of the pistols from his bosom,
+Lord Camelford immediately fired, and the ball passing through
+the breast of the brave, but inconsiderate lieutenant, he fell a
+corpse upon the ground, the deadly stream welling from the wound,
+and staining, as it flowed, the gay ball-dress which he wore.
+
+No sooner did the well-aimed weapon do its work, than, drawing
+the other from its resting-place, his lordship turned to the
+second lieutenant of the “Perdrix,” and pointing it at him, asked
+if he would obey his orders, or meet the same punishment as Mr.
+Peterson? Life is sweet! The second in command saw his friend
+stretched at his feet with the red blood gurgling around him, and
+fearing the same fate, he obeyed Lord Camelford, and took the
+watch.
+
+Oh, duty! what a stern goddess thou art! or else how much art
+thou belied, for the deed was laid to thy charge. He disobeyed
+his superior officer, and in the midst of health, of buoyant
+feelings, and without, perhaps, time to think of a _hereafter_,
+he was to _die_. I can never more pass those sunken anchors which
+mark the tragic spot, without thinking of the mournful fate of
+this self-deceived mutineer, poor Lieutenant Peterson, or
+fancying I can see him in his death throes, stretched upon that
+sandy ground by the hand of him who had been once his friend.
+
+This circumstance was not the only one that caused Lord
+Camelford’s name to be well known in Antigua. Upon another
+occasion he went to Mr. Kitto, then superintendent of the
+naval-yard, and informed him he wanted certain alterations made
+on board the vessel of war he commanded. Mr. Kitto, in the
+mildest terms, acquainted his lordship that he could not oblige
+him, as it would be going beyond his warrant. To this refusal the
+angry officer made no reply, but immediately going on board his
+ship, he summoned his boatswain to his presence, and ordered him
+to provide himself with a cat-of-nine-tails, and hold himself in
+readiness to accompany him ashore.
+
+In the course of a short time, Lord Camelford, the boatswain, and
+his mate, and a few of the crew of the “Favourite,” proceeded to
+the dockyard, and a message was despatched to Mr. Kitto, desiring
+his attendance.
+
+Upon the arrival of the superintendent, Lord Camelford again
+demanded to know if he would accede to his wishes, at the same
+time giving a pretty broad hint that, in case of refusal, his
+back should be visited by the “Cat.” Mr. Kitto once more
+observed, “It would be going beyond my warrant,” when, as he
+uttered these words, at a signal from his lordship, the
+unfortunate superintendent was seized, and twelve dozen lashes
+inflicted with no unsparing hand by the boatswain of the
+“Favourite.”
+
+This illegal and brutal conduct was not, however, passed over; a
+complaint was laid against Lord Camelford, and the case was
+investigated at the court house. Upon the day of trial, as may be
+supposed, the court was thronged with spectators; the assault was
+proved, and bail was about to be demanded, when his lordship
+begged permission to retire for a short time. His request was
+complied with; but no sooner had he gained the outer gate of the
+court house, than, seizing a horse which some gentleman visitant
+had fastened to the iron palisading, he mounted, and rode away in
+direction of English Harbour as fast as the animal could be
+urged.
+
+In a moment all was confusion. “The prisoner’s escaped!” was the
+universal cry; and as the truth became known within the court
+house, various were the individuals who hurried forth, mounted
+their horses, and joined in the pursuit. The Honourable Edward
+Byam was then president of the island, and with the same high
+spirit of equity which has ever marked that family, and unbiassed
+by the rank of the offender, he immediately threw up one of the
+windows of the court-house, and shouted—“A hundred pounds for his
+recapture—a hundred pounds for his head!”
+
+On kept Lord Camelford, (almost overtaken by one of the
+constables, a very athletic man, of the name of White,) until at
+length the horse he was riding fell down from exhaustion, and
+obliged his lordship to take refuge in an adjoining cane-field.
+Upon the party who were in pursuit gaining the place of his
+retreat, a sudden stand was made. The rabble who had joined the
+party, and some of the horsemen, were stationed around the
+cane-field; while the constables, with a few attendants, and
+several dogs, entered the precincts of the field, and literally
+hunted the offending lord through its tangled mazes, until,
+overcome with fatigue, and unarmed, he was taken by his pursuers.
+
+In the escape, Lord Camelford’s hat had fallen off, and he was
+therefore placed upon a horse bareheaded; and in this manner,
+surrounded by the officials, and followed by all the riff-raff of
+“St. John’s and its environs,” he was brought back, and once more
+placed before the court. Lord Camelford was ordered to find bail
+for his appearance at the sessions. The amount of his
+recognisances was 5000l.; Walter Colquhoun and Walter Riddle,
+Esqs., standing sureties for his forthcoming. Upon his lordship’s
+return to English Harbour, he drew bills for the amount, (for
+which his sureties would have been liable by his departure, had
+he not taken this precaution,) and then proceeded on board his
+ship “Favourite,” made sail, and quitted the shores of Antigua,
+with no very enviable feelings, it is to be supposed.
+
+The forfeited money was devoted to the purpose of sinking wells,
+(or springs, as they are termed in the West Indian idiom,) for
+the accommodation of the inhabitants of St. John’s; and
+accordingly, a party of negroes were employed to prosecute the
+work.
+
+They commenced their labours at the head of the town, opposite to
+where the Scotch kirk is now building; but after digging to a
+great depth, and still finding no appearance of water, they
+became seriously alarmed, and unanimously refused to proceed,
+giving as their excuse, “that dey heard all de cocks crowing in
+de oder world!”
+
+To return to the incidents of our day’s journey to English
+Harbour. After leaving the scene of Lieutenant Peterson’s death,
+we once more walked round by the superintendant’s residence,
+admiring as we went the neat manner in which the ponderous
+anchors and various-sized buoys were arranged; and then bidding
+the dockyard farewell, proceeded on our way to the Ridge, which,
+as its name implies, is the upper ground of a gentle ascent,
+appropriated to the erection of barracks, and other military
+establishments, for the accommodation of her majesty’s troops.
+Before I proceed to describe the rest of the Antigua “_lions_,” I
+must be allowed to remark, that, although in my life I have
+visited many public buildings in England, as well as in other
+parts of the globe, I never met with more politeness, from the
+lowest to the highest of the officials, than I experienced at
+this English Harbour naval establishment.
+
+A few paces from the dockyard, on the road to the Ridge, we
+passed the ordnance, consisting of two separate departments,
+divided from each other by an arm of the sea—one used as a
+store-place for guns and balls, the other for the reception of
+powder. These deadly weapons were so neatly arranged, the
+different sizes forming different tiers, and the balls were so
+prettily packed in the form of pyramids—the day was so fine, the
+sea so blue, and the buildings themselves so spruce, in their
+uniform of light yellow picked out with black, that I was quite
+enraptured with the picture—forgot the _use_ they were intended
+for, nor thought how many heart-broken wives and desolate orphans
+had wept, with tears like blood, the carnage such instruments had
+effected.
+
+The road wound up the ascent, which is continued until the Ridge
+is gained. On one side stands a very pretty residence, known as
+“Clarence House,” belonging to the queen, and one of the
+dwellings the superintendent of the naval yard has under his
+control; and on the other side of the road rises “Dow’s Hill,”
+surmounted by the country-seat of the governor. In this part of
+the road, a stone, marked with an anchor, points out the boundary
+of the naval ground; and on the other side of the stone, the land
+appropriated to the military commences.
+
+Still following the ascent, in process of time we gained the
+engineers’ quarters, the first building which marks the Ridge;
+and opposite to it is the victualling office. Passing by the
+officers’ quarters, the barracks for the privates, the several
+storehouses, and the iron hospital, for the reception of invalid
+soldiers, we stood upon the utmost verge of the place bearing the
+title of _Shirley_ Heights, so named after one of the former
+governors, Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart. A very beautiful view may be
+obtained from this spot, well worthy of a painter’s study. Hills
+and dales clothed in tropical luxuriance; rocky precipices and
+lonely glens, where nature sits enthroned; steep mountains and
+ample solitudes, that look as if the foot of man never disturbed
+their primeval silence; and gentle slopes, dotted here and there
+with neat-looking dwellings. Below, on your right, lies the
+dockyard, with its uniform buildings, and the lovely harbour,
+forming a complete basin, encircled with its white sands; while
+beyond, the ocean presents one level sheet of burnished gold,
+over which the fishing-boats were gaily bounding, and throwing
+the shadow of their simple sails and slender masts far before
+them. The mouth of English Harbour, which is 113 fathoms across,
+was formerly defended in times of warfare by an immense iron
+chain. That, however, is now no more; but the staples by which it
+was secured still remain in the massive rocks, to prove the truth
+of this assertion. It is now protected by two forts placed on
+each side of the opening: Fort Charlotte, mounted with four guns,
+18 and 24 pounders; Fort Berkley, mounting twenty-four guns. At
+the latter fort is a magazine.
+
+After leaving the Ridge, we turned down a slight declivity, by
+the victualling offices, on our way to Bat’s Cave, and the
+Savannah. Our road lay through groves of loblolly, manchineel,
+and acacia, which, twining their long arms together, formed
+various natural colonnades; while the ground was strewed with
+their matted leaves, in all stages of decay. Having alighted, we
+walked through the interwoven path, carefully avoiding as we went
+the different varieties of cactus, which spring up on all sides,
+and guarding our faces from the long sharp thorns of the acacia,
+and the boughs of the poisonous manchineel. The ground, rugged
+and broken, was plentifully sprinkled with disrupted portions of
+spar, which glittered in the sunbeams like so many gems, and put
+me in mind of Sinbad’s walk in the “Valley of Diamonds.” Immense
+ground-lizards were trailing their long bodies about, in search
+of their daily food, so amply provided for them by the great
+Benefactor of all; while others were basking upon these dazzling
+fossils, to imbibe the heat of the meridian sun.
+
+After taking many devious routes among the impending bushes, in
+order to discover the wished-for cavern, I was well pleased to
+hear the cheerful voice of our pioneer shouting forth “Come this
+way; I’ve found the right path.” Scrambling, as best we could,
+over a huge bed of prickly pear, (one of the cactus family,) we
+gained an opening in the copse, and stood before the mouth of the
+cave. Two large trees, which grew on each side, extended their
+gnarled roots (from which the earth had been washed) across the
+opening, forming natural steps, by which we descended, and stood
+within the cave.
+
+Huge masses of the rock which forms the cavern have fallen in,
+and in great measure blocked it up, so that it now only presents
+an arena of about 50 feet in circumference, although in time past
+it was of considerable extent. From the main cavern, two passages
+branch off in opposite directions. They are perfectly dark, the
+only means of exploring them being by the use of flambeaux; but
+to what length they extend has never been discovered. Mr. McLane,
+a late resident of English Harbour, (now of Canada,) has made
+several attempts to that purpose, all of which proved fruitless;
+the greatest distance he ever proceeded was to the extent of two
+sea-lines, about 120 yards. The only known occupants are bats,
+which breed there in immense numbers, and often attain the size
+of a common pigeon. A dank unhealthy vapour is emitted from these
+openings, proceeding, no doubt, from the carbonic acid gas they
+contain. This vapour soon extinguishes the light of a torch,
+which is one reason this cavern has never been further
+explored.[88] A streak of dark green runs down one side of the
+cave, which was pointed out to me as indicating the existence of
+copper; but upon examining a portion of the rock I brought away
+with me, I found that the colour was occasioned only by a
+vegetable substance adhering to the stones.
+
+In former times, Bat’s Cave was a great place of concealment for
+the tribes of erratic Caribs, when visiting Antigua on their
+predatory excursions; and tradition still points it out as the
+scene of a barbarous carousal among that wild and savage race, in
+one of their attacks upon this island. As, however, I am now
+giving the narration of a day’s journey, I will proceed to
+mention the other spots we visited, and leave the Legend, which
+is rather lengthy, for the next chapter.
+
+Emerging from “Bat’s Cave,” and wending our way amid the same
+rugged impediments, in process of time we reached our vehicle,
+and stepping into it, proceeded to visit the ruins of the old
+government house in the Savannah, the scene of the attack
+narrated in the “Legend of Ding a Ding Nook,” and of a similar
+attempt in 1654. After driving for a short distance over pasture
+land, exhibiting a dreary view of brown and withered herbage, the
+effects of the late dry weather, (rendered more striking by the
+contrast of the deep green of the different trees,) which
+crackled under the horses’ feet, we arrived at another tangled
+maze of shrub and brushwood, where it was again necessary to
+proceed on foot, in order to prosecute our intended search.
+Forcing our way through this almost impenetrable thicket,
+rendered in some places more impervious by the twinings and
+intertwinings of the withe, (a native parasite,) stooping to
+avoid some straggling branch, or springing over a thorny bank, we
+gained an open glade; and walking up the gentle acclivity, stood
+by the side of the ruins.
+
+They consist of what appears to have been a cistern, probably the
+first built in the island, and a low wall of stone, marking the
+foundation of the government house. Within this last-mentioned
+ruin stand two tombs, the inscriptions upon which are as
+follows:—
+
+                            Antigua.
+         Here lieth the body of Mrs. Elizabeth Warner,
+                  Late wife of Edward Warner,
+                      Of this island, Esq.
+              She was a woman of exemplary piety;
+                   She was the best of wives,
+                   The tenderest of mothers,
+                  The faithfulest of friends,
+      And of a most charitable, compassionate disposition,
+       Whose death was generally and deservedly lamented
+               By the good people that knew her.
+        She departed this life the thirteenth of August,
+                             1723,
+                  In the 37th year of her age.
+
+                     Here lies the body of
+                       Mr. Henry Warner,
+            Who died on the 17th day of Sept, 1731,
+                  In the 39th year of his age,
+                   Much beloved and lamented
+                     By all that knew him.
+                     In memory of whom, his
+               Affectionate brothers, Edward and
+                         Ashton Warner,
+                     Erected this Monument.
+
+About these tombs grew many a sweet and fragile flower, and many
+a gaily painted butterfly hovered around, and sported in the
+blaze of the “great luminary;” while the “Turk’s caps” (another
+species of cactus) shewed their crimson crests in all directions.
+A broken bottle, the relic of some former maroon (_fête
+champetre_) lay upon one of the tombs—not more fragile or fickle
+in its nature than the mouldering dust which slept beneath, or
+those who in the heyday of life stood looking on.
+
+Leaving the tombs and ruins to their usual solitude, we retraced
+our steps; but in doing so, I could not help thinking that the
+name “_Savannah_” was misapplied, or Dr. Johnson was wrong in his
+etymology, for I am sure there is wood in abundance of one kind
+or the other. A great number of wild cattle inhabit this part of
+the country, deriving, it is said, a plentiful supply of
+nutriment from the herbage found there.
+
+On our return to English Harbour, along the same road, we had a
+glimpse of “Indian Creek,” so famous in “story,” which meanders
+through verdantly-decked shores in a picturesque manner. It
+derives its name from an engagement which took place upon its
+banks, between a party of Caribs, (or Indians,) narrated in the
+following “Legend.”
+
+Once more entering the village of English Harbour, we proceeded
+to the house of W. C. Brooks, Esq., where we rested for some
+time, experiencing those nameless acts of hospitality for which
+the Antiguans are noted; and where I willingly laved my burning
+temples with the fragrant “Eau de Cologne.” Really, this marching
+and counter-marching, beneath a tropical sun, is no slight
+matter, let my readers think as they may. “Sol” visits the face
+with many a fiery mark, and if he _kisses_, he leaves his _sting_
+behind. I felt glad when we once more took our way to town; and
+although no lovely moon was abroad,
+
+    “——the floor of Heaven
+    Was thick inlaid with patines of bright gold,”
+
+which sufficed to light us gloriously on our way, and bring us in
+safety to Spring Gardens.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[84] It may be necessary to remark, for the benefit of my English
+readers, that although Saturday is the principal _market-day_,
+Monday is more generally used by the labouring class for coming
+into the capital to provide their weekly supplies. So much is
+this the case, that where you may see fifty labourers employed
+upon a plantation upon the other days of the week, on Monday you
+will scarcely find twenty.
+
+[85] As it may amuse the reader, we here transcribe an original
+letter, written by our great naval hero at this period, which is
+carefully preserved by its proprietor as an invaluable relic:—
+
+                               “English Harbour, Aug. 3rd, 1784.
+
+“As the captains of the navy at this port mean to establish a
+mess for the hurricane months, by their desire I write to beg
+that you will send us round, by the first opportunity, the
+undermentioned articles—viz., one hogshead of port, one of the
+best white wine that you have, twelve dozen of porter in bottles,
+fifty pounds loaf sugar, one firkin of good butter, two baskets
+of salt, two pounds black pepper.
+
+         “I have the honour to be, your humble servant,
+
+                                                “Horatio Nelson.
+
+“P.S. As we only wait for these things to begin our mess, the
+sooner they arrive the better. Mr. Druce, the agent victualler is
+a going to send provisions round for the Fury which will be a
+good opportunity.
+
+“Addressed to ——— Kerr, Esq.”
+
+[86] It may be necessary to remark, that roses are very choice
+flowers in Antigua, the climate not appearing to agree with them.
+This is strange, as in the East Indies, where the heat is even
+greater, whole fields are planted with this beautiful shrub, in
+order to get their leaves to distil the far-fame “Attar.”
+
+[87] Of which island he was a native.
+
+[88] It is supposed that these passages extend to the sea-shore,
+a distance of about a quarter of a mile.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+
+
+                 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
+
+                   A Legend of the Savannah.
+
+The sun was rapidly sinking in the west, but its declining beams
+only threw upon every object a richer tone of colour, as a party,
+consisting of three persons, emerged from a small shrubbery, and
+halted upon the brow of a shelving hill.
+
+The foremost of the party was a man who probably verged upon the
+mellow age of fifty; but his eagle-eye, and stalwart frame, told
+that his years sat light upon him. He was what would have been
+termed a handsome man; but a supercilious curl of his upper lip,
+and an expression of scornful indifference, which, though
+apparently suppressed, lingered in his dark hazel eye, added to a
+brow furrowed by deep lines, and compressed by slumbering
+passions, which only waited the spur of the moment to be called
+into action, detracted from the otherwise agreeable character of
+his features, and effectually forbid any approach to familiarity.
+A deep and unsightly scar, the effects of a sabre-cut, which,
+commencing from the right ear, traversed the jaw, injured yet
+further his good looks. He was habited in a complete suit of
+black velvet, of the richest texture; the sombreness of which was
+in some measure relieved by diamond clasps, and small
+knee-buckles of the same costly stones. A small collar of the
+finest lawn made its appearance above the doublet; and a
+black-sheathed “Andrèa Ferrara,” with basket hilt, dangling from
+his side, and calf-skin boots, completed his costume. This dress,
+fitting tight to his shape, shewed to advantage the large but
+perfect symmetry of his person; while the dark brown hair,
+sprinkled here and there with the grey badge of declining years,
+cropt close around his temples; and the steeple-crowned hat
+peculiar to his sect and times, bespoke him, what he was, the
+friend of Cromwell—the roundhead governor of Antigua.
+
+The next person that gained the open ground was Bridget, the
+beautiful daughter of the governor. If ever there was a
+personification of extreme loveliness, it was known in Bridget.
+Scarcely seventeen, her slight but rounded figure, and her sweet,
+mild face, while it struck the beholder with admiration, and
+riveted his attention, gave the idea of some embodied sylph. Her
+complexion was of that ethereal tint of which the poet says—
+
+    “Oh, call it fair, not pale.”
+
+The lily could scarcely outvie it in purity of colour, although
+every emanation of her guileless heart called up the latent
+rose-tint into her delicate cheek; while the small, pouting lip,
+with all the rich glow of the coral, forbid effectually the
+supposition of ill health. A slightly aquiline nose, a
+classically-formed and dimpled chin, with a fair and open
+forehead, in which every azure vein could be traced, were the
+prominent features; blended with that mingled sweetness, that
+feminine grace, and that inexpressible _something_, which really
+and actually constitutes beauty. But her eyes—those soft, lovely
+eyes—look at them, as she raises the long lashes, and you can
+fancy, that were her features devoid of any pretensions to
+comeliness, those liquid orbs would richly compensate for all. Of
+the clearest hazel, every glance that fell from them spoke the
+inmost feelings of her soul; and whether they beamed forth in
+pity, or flashed with animation, they equally bespoke the
+benevolence of her nature.
+
+Puritan as her father was, he did not deny his daughter, any more
+than himself, the use of a few ornaments; and a bandeau of pearls
+fastened around her graceful head vainly endeavoured to restrain
+the abundant tresses of her soft, glossy, brown hair, which,
+breaking loose, floated upon her shoulders in natural ringlets.
+Her dress of dove-coloured satin flowed in rich and ample folds
+to her feet, from whence the little slipper peeped forth; and,
+gathered around her slender waist by a girdle of pearls, shewed
+the admirable proportions of her figure. The stiff puritan ruff
+of lawn, in which every plait could be counted, screened her
+neck; but around her small white throat was fastened a carcanet
+of her favourite gems, not purer in tint than her own fair skin.
+A wimple of the same colour as her dress, and lined with pale
+rose tiffany, was tied under her little rounded chin, but which,
+in the joyousness of her nature, she had unfastened, that she
+might more fully enjoy the beauties of the evening.
+
+The remaining individual that formed the trio was in every
+respect far different from those already described; yet, as she
+stood a few paces behind Bridget—to mark the difference in their
+rank, although near enough to join in the conversation—her lofty
+and commanding figure called equally for attention and
+admiration. The clear olive tinge of her complexion, the large
+black eye, which sparkled with dazzling light, and the long
+coal-black hair, braided and twined round and round her head,
+told that she was not of the same country, or the same people as
+her mistress. Servant—slave as she was—she looked born to
+command; and daring must that person be who would encounter for
+the second time the flash of her offended eye. Formed in a larger
+mould than Bridget, her figure still bore the utmost symmetrical
+proportions; and the rounded arm and taper fingers might have
+served as a model for the Goddess of Beauty: this female was
+Zulmiera—the half-Carib girl.
+
+The mother of Zulmiera was a very beautiful Carib woman, who, in
+that disgraceful partition of them among the English, (after the
+massacre of their male friends at St. Kitts during Sir Thomas
+Warner’s government of that island,) fell to the share of a young
+Englishman, a follower of Sir Thomas Warner’s son, in his after
+colonization of Antigua. Xamba accompanied her master to his new
+residence, and there bore him a daughter; but dying soon after,
+the infant was brought up in the governor’s family. After the
+reduction of Antigua by Sir George Ayscue, and the establishment
+of a republican governor, in place of the opposer of Cromwell’s
+power, Zulmiera, who was rapidly attaining the full burst of
+womanhood, was, at the earnest entreaties of Bridget Everard, who
+was charmed with the untutored graces of the beautiful Indian
+maiden, promoted to the office of her companion. It must be
+allowed, that this appointment met not with the full approval of
+the governor. Violently attached to Cromwell, and bearing bitter
+hatred to the royalist party, and all malignants, he thought the
+girl had been too long nurtured in their principles to make a
+faithful attendant to the daughter of a republican. But Bridget
+was his only child,—a motherless girl; and stern and unbending as
+he was to others, his iron mood gave way before her playful
+caresses.
+
+Still there was another and deep cause of dislike he had against
+Zulmiera. Upon further acquaintance with this Indian girl, he
+found her too haughty for his own arrogant spirit to deal with.
+Too high-minded and forgetful of her real rank as a servant, and
+apparently under the impression that, while attending upon her
+mistress, she was in fact her equal, if not her superior.
+
+Zulmiera was, in truth, fully alive to this sentiment. She looked
+upon herself as the descendant (on her mother’s side) of a long
+line of chiefs—of those who had once been rulers in the land, and
+who had received from their swarthy subjects the homage that
+monarchs of a more civilized nation were wont to receive.
+
+Thinking thus of Zulmiera, no wonder that the governor distrusted
+her. Nor was the girl ignorant of his opinion of her; and
+consequently their feelings of dislike were mutual. She knew he
+hated her; and he felt that in her heart she despised him. Still,
+she loved Bridget—for who could not love that mild, fair girl?—
+loved her with an intensity of fervour, unknown to the
+inhabitants of colder climes—and would have shed for her her
+heart’s best blood; for love and hatred were to Zulmiera
+all-absorbing passions. Yet there was another who held the
+_first_ place in Zulmiera’s heart,—one that was to the
+half-instructed, half-Indian girl—her “idol god.”
+
+But to return to the movements of the trio. Having left the
+concealment of the shrubbery, the whole party paused, and with
+different feelings gazed upon the landscape stretched before
+them. The slight declivity upon the brow of which they were
+standing, had been cleared, and was now planted with tobacco,
+whose broad green leaves, and delicate trumpet flowers, attracted
+the attention of numerous gorgeous insects. This plantation
+stretched to the end of a wild copse, where every native shrub
+and brushwood grew together with the loftier trees, and formed an
+almost impervious thicket. Beyond this copse, the waters of a
+beautiful creek, which ran a short way inland, glittered like
+gold in the beams of the setting sun; while on every side rose
+undulating hills, begirt with many an infant plantation,
+belonging to some of the earlier settlers. Further off, the broad
+ocean stretched its interminable waves, its billows sleeping in
+calmness; except in one part, where a long ridge of shelving
+rocks fretted them into motion, and caused them to send forth
+their angry roar.[89]
+
+At the bottom of the hill upon which they were standing ran a
+bridle-path, which, winding in and out, branched off in two
+directions; one passing through the populous town of Falmouth,
+the other extending to the shores of a beautiful harbour,[90]
+where some industrious settlers were cultivating the adjoining
+country. Along this path a single horseman was seen slowly
+advancing, in the direction of the harbour. As he gained the
+skirts of the hill, he reined up for a moment his prancing steed,
+and, looking towards the party, raised his plumed hat and bent
+forward in graceful obeisance. The dark eyes of Zulmiera sparkled
+with delight, and standing, as she did, behind the governor and
+his daughter, unseen by them, she raised her hand and waved a
+return, while, at the same instant, the rosiest blush sprang to
+the cheeks of Bridget, and crimsoned her very throat. The
+horseman again bent his head, and then, replacing his hat, shook
+the broidered reins and galloped off in the direction he had
+chosen for his equestrian amusement.
+
+Following with his eye the plumed stranger until he was lost in
+the intervening copse, the governor turned to his daughter, and
+fixing a steady, penetrating glance upon her, exclaimed, “Ha!
+then the young malignant’s designs appear to be more open than
+they were. But, mark me, daughter Bridget,” and his eye became
+sterner and darker as the pupil dilated with his awakening
+passion, and his haughty lip curled with increased scorn—“mark
+me, Bridget, sooner than I’d see thee mated with one of his
+malignant race, mine own hand should stretch thee at my feet a
+breathless corpse!—yea, as Jephtha slew his daughter, so would I
+slay thee!” The agitated and frightened girl threw herself upon
+her father’s breast, and, amid tears and sobs, stammered out—
+“Father—dearest father! think not so. Raphe de Merefield is
+naught to me; he never spoke to me but with the most studied
+politeness, and, indeed, he shuns rather than seeks my presence.”
+—“’Tis well, then, maiden—my suspicions are unfounded; the wolf
+has not entered the sheepfold to steal the tender lamb; but I
+have observed him lately wandering about these grounds, and I
+feared my daughter was the object. But listen!” and again his eye
+flashed, his lip trembled—“verily, I know that young man well—ay,
+better than he knows me—for his father was my neighbour and my
+deadliest foe!—and what was more, the foe of Cromwell! He it was
+that assisted that tyrannical man, Charles Stuart, in his escape
+from Hampton Court, and after aided him in his long struggles to
+maintain possession of a crown which had long been doomed to
+destruction. He it was that beggared his brother to obtain money
+to carry out that well-slain tyrant’s nefarious designs! And he
+it was that, at the battle of Naseby, gave me this ugly sign of
+recognition,” pointing to the scar which disfigured his cheek.
+“But was he not discomfited? Yea, as the dry leaf he fell. Lo! as
+David girded up his strength in the day of battle, so girded I up
+mine; and as he smote his enemies with the edge of the sword, so
+my trusty weapon stretched the haughty Philistine upon the
+ground, never to rise again! Guess, then, if thou canst, how much
+I love yon cavalier, who hath sucked in with his very milk the
+taint of papistry—for did not that Babylonish woman whom men call
+the Queen of England rear him up from his cradle? yea, and taught
+him all her sorceries. Had my honoured friend and master, the
+protector, followed my advice, this young traitor to the
+commonwealth would never have escaped from England to disseminate
+his malignant poison abroad. Cromwell should have crushed the egg
+before it was hatched. But verily I wax hot and am impatient, not
+considering the time approacheth when rebels and arch-rebels
+shall melt away as the hoar frost melteth before the sun.
+Despatches have reached me that it is Cromwell’s intention to
+send, in the course of a few months, a squadron against St.
+Domingo, and my instructions are to see that a proper troop be
+raised in this island to join the expedition. I am resolved that
+Master Raphe de Merefield be one of the gallants who shall serve
+in that affair; a goodly bullet-shot or, albeit, a well-applied
+stroke from the rapier of a Spaniard, may relieve me from his
+machinations; or should he refuse to fight under the banner of
+the commonwealth, verily, I know the malignancy of his father
+cleaves so closely to him, that it will only be maintaining
+Cromwell’s interest to have him properly secured, or we may see
+another revolt when we least expect it.” Thus saying, the
+governor walked forward a few paces, and shading his eyes from
+the lingering sunbeams, scanned for a few moments the scene
+before him.
+
+What passed in the mind of Bridget during the foregoing
+conversation it is unnecessary to relate, but the emotions called
+up in the heart of the Carib girl while hearing her lover thus
+traduced were violent and various. Hate, scorn, and revenge,
+fired her eye, and sent a torrent of hot blood through her veins,
+which, rushing to her face, turned the clear olive to a fiery
+crimson. Yet so well was she accustomed to master her feelings,
+that before her young mistress was sufficiently recovered to
+commence another dialogue, she stood the same apparently calm
+being, her hands folded across her breast; and only that her eye
+was more dilated, and her cheek still slightly tinged, none could
+tell that aught had moved her.
+
+An exclamation from the governor, who had, for the last few
+minutes, been intently gazing in one direction, arrested his
+daughter’s attention, and, gliding to his elbow, she inquired if
+he addressed her. “Look, Bridget,” replied her father, in a still
+stern, but not unmusical voice—“look o’er yonder grove—dost thou
+see aught moving?”—“Nothing, dearest father,” answered the
+maiden, in her own sweet tones—“nothing but the bland zephyr
+sporting amid the young green leaves, and playing its fairy music
+upon them.” “Foolish enthusiast! But haste, girl!—fetch me the
+wondrous instrument the lord-general gave me, and let me give yon
+grove a sharper look—methinks it contains more inmates than we
+wot of. I have heard of wild Indians and their deeds.”
+
+Roused by his remarks, Zulmiera started forward, and in an
+agitated voice which she in vain tried to stifle, exclaimed, “Oh,
+no, your excellency, naught is there, save, as the Lady Bridget
+saith, the whispering wind or the fly-birds as they seek their
+leafy bower.” “Back, girl!” fiercely retorted the governor—“back
+to thy place; who taught thee to hazard thy remarks? Methinks thy
+cavalier masters might have made thee know thy station better.”
+
+Again the blood rushed to the cheek and temples of Zulmiera—again
+the eye flashed fire—but again she mastered her emotions;
+exclaiming, however, as she did so, but in a voice too subdued to
+reach her companion’s ear, “Rest till to-morrow’s night, proud
+man, then wilt thou learn who governs here!”
+
+At this moment, Bridget placed in her father’s hand the lately
+invented telescope,[91] when, raising it to his eye, he narrowly
+observed the whole breadth of the copse; the distant creek and
+the farther ocean; but nothing met his eye—nothing, save the wavy
+green, or the wing of a weary sea-fowl as it sought its nest.
+Slowly dropping the instrument, the governor once more gazed with
+his naked eye in that direction. The sun had set some minutes
+before, and as the last of his golden beams faded in the west, he
+turned upon his heel, and, followed by the females, was once more
+lost in the verdant shrubbery.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[89] Now called the Memora’s.
+
+[90] Now called English Harbour.
+
+[91] Telescopes were said to have been invented during the reign
+of James I., although some attribute the invention to Roger
+Bacon, 1292.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+
+
+                  CONTINUATION OF THE LEGEND.
+
+It was a calm, delicious, West Indian night. The moon shone in
+all her glory, bathing lawn and lea, upland and woodland, in her
+silvery light. The waters of the creek we have already noticed
+were rife with beauty; and the waves of the far-off ocean, as
+they dashed in measured cadence on the beach, broke musically
+upon the listener’s ear.
+
+A stately figure, enveloped in a dark mantle, glided from behind
+a screen of lime and coffee trees; and gaining the open ground,
+looked cautiously around. As if assured its movements were
+unobserved, the figure darted off at a rapid pace in the
+direction of a magnificent grove; but with steps so light, that
+it would scarcely have crushed the lowliest flower. Upon reaching
+the verge of the grove, it stopped; and placing a finger upon a
+small gittern,[92] carried beneath the ample cloak, struck a
+single note. The crushing of the younger twigs and leaves told
+that the signal was heard; and springing from the covert, a young
+man bounded forward, exclaiming—“Zulmiera! dearest Zulmiera! how
+long thou hast stayed to-night!”
+
+The moon still shone with a clear and fervent light, displaying
+every object in a distinct manner, and shewing the picturesque
+dress of the impassioned stranger to the best advantage. His
+figure was slight but perfectly formed, while his fair skin and
+glowing cheeks bespoke his Saxon origin. His eyes were of the
+clearest blue, and his long auburn locks, parted in the middle of
+his forehead, flowed over his shoulders, in length and profusion
+equalling a woman’s. A slight moustache shaded his upper lip,
+which, slightly curved, displayed a set of teeth faultless in
+size and colour. His dress, fashioned in that superb style which
+the followers of Charles loved to indulge in, consisted of a
+doublet of three-piled murrey-colour velvet, pinked and slashed
+with white satin, and ornamented with elaborate embroidery, his
+falling band, or collar, of the richest point lace, and his
+nether garments to match with the doublet, were finished at the
+knees with white satin roses and diamond studs. A small but
+admirably tempered Toledo, the hilt of solid gold, and sparkling
+with diamonds, was strapped to his side by an embroidered belt;
+while a Flemish beaver hat, looped with a diamond button, and
+surrounded by a snowy plume, shaded his somewhat boyish features.
+A dark short cloak, lined with white tafiety, which he had flung
+aside when springing to meet Zulmiera, floated from behind his
+right shoulder, and served to give him still more an air of
+graceful elegance.
+
+“Dearest Zulmiera,” said the young stranger, when seated upon the
+trunk of a large tree, which, uprooted by a former hurricane, and
+slightly covered by a little alluvial earth, had shot forth a few
+sickly branches—“dearest Zulmiera, how long I have waited for you
+—how much I have to tell you! I have watched each star as it
+peeped forth from the heavens—heard the shrill pipe of the curlew
+as it flew to its nest—but listened in vain for your light
+footstep; say, dearest, what kept you from the trysting-tree?” “I
+was in attendance upon my mistress until this late hour,” replied
+Zulmiera, speaking in an ironical tone, and laying a strong
+emphasis upon the word _mistress_, while a slight look of scorn
+passed over her animated features; “or else doubt not I would
+have met you long before; for where, Raphe, would the bird with
+weary wing seek for rest but by the side of its own fond mate? or
+why should yon white flower,” pointing to a night-jasmine which
+was growing in all its wild luxuriance near the spot, and loading
+the air with sweet and powerful perfume—“why should yon white
+flower haste to open its pretty leaves, as soon as the day melts
+away, were it not to seek the fond love of those beautiful stars
+which are twinkling above us? Raphe, you are my mate, and your
+eyes are my stars, in which I read my destiny.”
+
+To this fond but fanciful rhapsody, Raphe de Merefield made no
+answer, except by pressing the beautiful hand which rested in
+his; and the half-Carib continued: “But it was not to tell you
+this, Raphe, that brought me here so late to-night. Come with
+me.” And suffering himself to be led by her, they quitted the
+deep recess in which they had been seated, and walked into the
+open ground already mentioned.
+
+Looking up the ascent above the tops of the trees, which grew in
+vast profusion, forming a complete barrier around, the moon-beams
+fell upon the roof of an irregular but commodious building. This
+was government house, and through an opening in the leafy
+enclosure, the light of a taper was seen brightly shining from a
+small diamond-pane casement, in one of the gable ends of the
+edifice. “In that room,” said the romantic girl, directing
+Raphe’s attention to it, “sleeps one, who, next to yourself, I
+love most on earth; and scornfully, harshly as her father has
+treated me, she must and shall be saved! Mark me, Raphe, an’ thou
+lovest me, guard the Lady Bridget as thou wouldst a sister. Wild
+spirits will be abroad ere the glad sun shall set and rise again,
+or yon pretty stars be peeping at us; and though I think they
+will care for mine as they would me, still, Raphe, I would have
+thee prepared. When all is over—when you and I—but I need say no
+more, except that Bridget shall not then be ashamed to love the
+despised, the scorned Zulmiera,” and as she spoke, she threw back
+her graceful head with the air of a Cleopatra, while the bright
+crimson mantled in her cheeks, and increased the lustre of her
+eyes.
+
+“What mean you, Zulmiera?” inquired the young cavalier, as soon
+as he could make himself heard; for her utterance during the
+preceding speech had been so rapid, and her manner so excited,
+that all his former attempts to interrupt her had been useless.
+“What mean you, dearest Zulmiera? Why this flashing eye—this
+agitated mien? Is it because yon king-killing, canting Puritan,
+called you _servant_, that these wild dreams (for I know not what
+else to term them) are floating through your brain? Never heed
+him, dearest; you will soon be my bride, my acknowledged wife;
+and then let me see who dare call you servant, or taunt you with
+your birth! Know that I love one tress of this black hair”—and he
+drew her fondly towards him—“better than all the fair ringlets
+and fairer skins of England’s boasted daughters. But draw your
+mantle closer round you, and let us to our former seat, where I
+will relate to you all my plans.—You know,” resumed Raphe, as
+they gained their resting-place upon the old tree, “that after
+the unfortunate battle of Naseby, upon which bloody field my
+brave father fell, fighting for his lawful sovereign against
+those long-eared Roundheads, (to which sect our notable governor
+belongs!) my widowed mother, seized with an irrepressible panic,
+fled from England, carrying me, then a stripling of about
+fourteen, along with her. Our first place of refuge was Holland,
+where the queen, whose godson I have the honour to be, had sought
+safety some time before. But my mother, disliking the country,
+and having received letters from her husband’s brother, my
+revered uncle, whose namesake I am, offering her an asylum in
+Antigua, she determined to avail herself of his kindness. Thus it
+was I became a resident in this island; and during my frequent
+visits at government house, when loyalty ruled there, I met my
+dearest Zulmiera. You are aware, I believe, that my uncle, who
+was formerly a merchant of the city of London, was joined with
+Sir Thomas Warner in a grant of land situated in this island, the
+grantor of which was the martyr Charles. Upon part of that land
+the brother of young Phillip Warner is erecting a new dwelling,
+and cultivating the surrounding country. It will be a fine place
+when it is finished; and Warner deserves it should be, for he
+made a gallant defence in 1651, when old Noll sent Sir George
+Ayscue to reduce this island, because, forsooth, it stood out for
+its lawful sovereign. But to resume my story, which the brave
+actions of Mr. Warner drove from my head. To-day, I confided to
+my mother our mutual engagement ; she has listened to the voice
+of her only, her beloved son, and is prepared to receive you as a
+daughter. To-morrow, I will call upon the governor—although I
+hate the sight of him, from his high-crowned hat down to his ugly
+looking calf-skins—and make my proposals in form. If he consents
+with a good grace, well; if not, I feel assured my dear Zulmiera
+will not fear to leave his house and protection for the home and
+hearth of one who loves her as I do. I still hope that our own
+King Charles (God bless him!) may overcome his enemies, and be
+seated upon the throne of his fathers; then will we visit old
+England, and in my own paternal mansion, I’ve no doubt I shall
+get my handsome Zulmiera to forget her native island and all her
+wild dreams.” So saying, with a look of strong affection and with
+gallant bearing, he raised her hand to his lips.
+
+“Oh, Raphe!” said the agitated girl, as her lover concluded his
+relation, to which she had listened with breathless attention;
+“oh, Raphe! had I known this but even ten days agone, how much
+might I, how much might we all have been spared. But I thought
+your mother would never have consented that the governor’s
+servant should mate with her noble son—and my own high spirit,
+goaded on as it has been by the scornful usage I have met, has
+led me to do a deed which may, perhaps, dash the cup of happiness
+from my lips. But, then,” she murmured, as if more in communion
+with herself than in reply to her companion, “but then to be a
+queen, and Raphe (they promised that, or I would never have
+consented) to be a king. No, it must be: I have gone too far to
+turn back;” and she raised her head, and looke steadfastly, but
+apparently half-unconsciously at the young man, who, surprised at
+her behaviour and language, was gazing intently upon her. At
+length, slightly shaking her hand to arrest her attention, he
+inquired again the cause of her extreme emotion. Receiving no
+reply from Zulmiera, whose large dark eyes were still fixed upon
+his face, he became seriously alarmed, and, in an anxious tone,
+entreated her to quit directly the night air, and seek that
+repose she appeared to need so much, within the precincts of
+government house. Allowing herself to be led in that direction,
+they in silence gained the shrubbery; when, after asking in vain
+for an explanation, and hearing her again and again express her
+assurance that she was not seriously indisposed, Raphe de
+Merefield bade her good even. As he turned to leave the spot,
+Zulmiera appeared to recover herself, and drawing a long breath,
+exclaimed “To-morrow, dear Raphe, to-morrow thou shalt know all—
+till then, farewell!”
+
+For some moments after the departure of the young cavalier,
+Zulmiera remained standing in the same posture; and then,
+suddenly rousing herself, she gazed once more earnestly around,
+and finding all still, stepped without the bounds of the
+shrubbery, and retracing her steps, once more gained the border
+of the copse. She was about to make use of an arranged signal,
+when a dark figure came bounding over a natural mound, formed by
+wild plants and brushwood, and in another instant stood before
+her.
+
+Near seven feet in height, and of corresponding breadth of
+shoulder, the stranger looked able to compete with a dozen men of
+ordinary growth, while his whole appearance was such as to strike
+terror into the heart of the beholder. Attired in a garment of
+dark red cloth, which only covered his person from his waist to
+his knees, the remainder of his body was painted in a most
+hideous manner. A black leathern belt, passing over his brawny
+shoulders, supported a huge naked broad-sword, doubtless obtained
+in some predatory exploit, whose edge was blunted and hacked by
+many a rough encounter, dangled by his side, or struck harmlessly
+against his naked legs. His face, the features of which were
+naturally good, was disfigured by grotesque colourings, and
+horrible scars; while his long black hair, to which was fastened
+small pieces of copper, brass buttons, and tufts of parrot
+feathers, floated behind him in matted locks, and gave him the
+appearance of a wandering gnome. An old regimental coat, from
+which part of the lace had been cut, and which was another of his
+war spoils, was tied around his neck by the two sleeves, serving
+the purpose of a cloak; and upon his breast reposed—a silent but
+melancholy memento of his habits—a string of human teeth, their
+dead white contrasting vividly with his dark skin. This stranger
+was Cuanaboa, the dreaded Carib chief.
+
+Rendering to Zulmiera his simple obeisance, he commenced the
+conversation by remarking in a barbarous kind of dialect, “the
+Boyez[93] gave the time to meet when the big star,” pointing to
+the moon, “rose above the hill, and the lady promised to obey;
+but now it’s shining o’er our heads, and the charm may be broken—
+the bow may indeed be bent, and the arrow speed on its way, and
+yet fall to the ground wide of the mark. We meet to-night, ’tis
+true; but the time the Boyez appointed is long past, and now
+perhaps our purpose may fail, and our enemies escape.” “Oh, no!
+Cuanaboa, believe not so,” replied Zulmiera; “listen not to the
+wild words of the old Boyez; thinkest thou _I_ care for what he
+saith?” “Ay, lady, but thou art fallen from the faith of thy
+fathers—thou hast lived too long with the Christians; but it
+matters not now, let us talk of our plans. Myself and comrades
+have agreed to lead the attack upon yonder house about this time
+to-morrow night, and we look to you to draw from their weapons
+those little round stones which kill so many of us, we know not
+how. Guacanagari has joined me with twice so many men, (holding
+up his hand, and spreading out his fingers,) and as fine a canoe
+as ever was paddled along these seas. He landed with his party
+just as the sun touched the waters; an hour badly chosen by him,
+for too many eyes are then abroad. I hope, though, none saw them
+but their red brothers, for they skulked along by the thickest
+part of the woods; and now their canoe lies high and dry, beneath
+the shelter of yon high banks, while they repose in safety in the
+cave,[94] attended by old Quiba. Now, lady, as, when the white
+men are subdued, and, falling beneath our clubs, or transfixed by
+our arrows, serve us as sacrifices to Mayboya,[95] we are to look
+upon you as our Queen——”
+
+“And Raphe as your _king_” interrupted Zulmiera, in hurried
+accents. “You promised that, or I would never have agreed to what
+I have; and had I known Cuanaboa as much as I do to-night, even
+that scheme of grandeur would not have tempted me to turn
+traitor, to promise, as I have, to open the doors, where I have
+lived so long, to give entrance to the enemy, and to lull their
+fears, while the worse than blood-hounds were upon their steps.
+Oh, Cuanaboa! I might have been so very happy, had I only waited
+in patience for a little time—happier as plain Mistress de
+Merefield, than I shall be, perhaps, as queen of the Caribbees;
+but it is no use repining now; I have given my word, and, right
+or wrong, Zulmiera will stand by it.”
+
+The long eyelashes fell over her burning eyes, and the beating of
+her heart sounded audibly, and shook her very frame; but
+recovering herself, she continued—“There is another subject to be
+discussed, Cuanaboa; the daughter of the governor is my dearest
+friend, and therefore she must be preserved unharmed throughout
+the fray, guarded with the most scrupulous care, and I look to
+you to place her in safety. Dost thou comprehend what I say?”
+
+“Yes, lady; and I was going to remark, when you interrupted me,
+that as you wish certain of the enemy saved alive, particularly
+the fair youth you mentioned just now, it would be well for you
+to give your orders to Guacanagari; and for that purpose I would
+advise you to visit the cave to-morrow evening, when we intend
+holding a serious assembly and dance, previous to commencing the
+attack. Guacanagari will be rejoiced to meet you, and he will be
+as fond of the maiden and the youth as I am;” and a very sinister
+expression, but unobserved by Zulmiera, passed over the face of
+the Carib chief. “Besides, lady, it is but right that Guacanagari
+should know his queen—never Carib had one before.”
+
+“I will attend,” replied Zulmiera. “And now, as it is past
+midnight, ’tis time we parted;” so saying, she bowed to the
+Carib, and drawing her mantle around her, walked away with all
+the dignity of a sovereign.
+
+Keeping his dark eye fixed upon her as long as she continued in
+sight, no sooner had the intervening shrubs screened her from his
+view, than, throwing himself upon the ground, the Carib broke
+into a shrill laugh. “And so the haughty beauty thinks that a
+people who have scarcely known control, will bend their shoulders
+to the dominion of a girl and a white-faced boy!—ha! ha! If the
+wild kites chose a king, would it be a colibri?[96] No! Should
+the Caribs follow the custom of the strangers who have come among
+us, and torn away our most fruitful countries, and own a king,
+who should it be but Cuanaboa? for who has slain so many enemies
+and drunk their blood as I have? or who can shew a longer string
+of teeth than I have here?” and he played with the one which
+ornamented his neck. “If Zulmiera will be queen, it must be as my
+wife; and truly she would serve to swell a richer triumph than I
+even expect to have. But as for the youth, his race is almost
+run; before this time to-morrow, I think he will give me but
+little further trouble. ’Tis well I came so soon to-night, and
+thus was witness of the meeting. I wish I could have understood
+what he said; but these pale-faced people speak so vilely, that
+it is hard to know what they mean. However, it matters not, I saw
+enough; and as I intend Zulmiera to be my prize, I will very
+shortly get rid of the youngster; he’ll make a capital sacrifice
+to Old Mayboya. White men eat better than red people, it can’t be
+denied;” and as he finished his soliloquy, he arose from the
+ground, and springing over the brush-wood, was lost to sight in
+the impending copse.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[92] A kind of small guitar, in use about the 16th and 17th
+centuries.
+
+[93] A priest, or magician, among the Caribs.
+
+[94] Now called Bat’s Cave.
+
+[95] Supreme deity among the Caribs.
+
+[96] The Indian name for the humming bird.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XXV.
+
+
+
+                   CONCLUSION OF THE LEGEND.
+
+The morning after this eventful meeting rose fair and bright.
+Bridget and Zulmiera, seated at an open window, inhaled the sweet
+breeze, while they bent over their embroidery frames; and the
+fair Englishwoman was giving a description of her own far-off
+land, when, gazing in the direction of the before-named copse,
+Zulmiera espied a white feather glancing for a moment above the
+tops of the trees, a well-known signal indicating the presence of
+Raphe de Merefield.
+
+Framing an excuse, she shortly left the apartment; and taking a
+circuitous route to escape observation, in a few moments gained
+the old tree, where, as expected, she found her lover.
+
+“Zulmiera,” said the young man, after the first greetings were
+passed, “I have suffered deeply in mind since we parted, on
+account of the strange words you let fall last evening; and I now
+seek your presence to demand, as your affianced husband, their
+signification. Tell me, Zulmiera, thine whole heart, or as Willy
+Shakspeare saith—
+
+    “——If thou dost love me,
+    Shew me thy thought?”
+
+Accosted in this sudden manner, and surprised by his serious
+demeanour, Zulmiera’s caution forsook her, and bursting into
+tears, confessed to her lover, as best she could, the following
+facts. Having been treated with great scorn and harshness by the
+governor, and looking upon herself as the descendant of a line of
+chieftains, and consequently entitled to respect, a deep and
+irresistible feeling of revenge sprang up in her breast, and
+absorbed her every thought. Roaming, as she had ever been wont,
+amid the romantic dells and leafy labyrinths of her native
+islands, she came one evening upon a curious cavern; her love of
+novelty led her to inspect it, but in the act of doing so, she
+was driven back in alarm by the sight of a flashing pair of eyes.
+
+Unable to suppress her fears, yet too much overcome by the
+encounter to fly, she leant against the rocky opening of the
+cave; when, rushing from his concealment, a powerful man, whom
+she immediately recognised as a Carib, darted upon her, and
+placing his hand upon her mouth to prevent her screams from being
+heard, was about to bear her away as his captive.
+
+Terrified as she was, she still had the presence of mind to
+declare her origin, and claim his forbearance, on the score of
+their allied blood. To such a plea, a Carib’s heart is never
+deaf; the grasp upon the shoulder was relaxed; the armed warrior
+stood quietly by her side; and a conversation in the Carib tongue
+(which Zulmiera had acquired from her mother) was carried on
+between them.
+
+The stranger declared himself to be a Carib chief, named
+Cuanaboa, and with the openness for which that people were noted
+among their friends, acquainted Zulmiera with the cause of his
+appearance in that lone cave. Following the example of his
+fathers, Cuanaboa said he had resolved to make an attack upon
+Antigua, accompanied by a neighbouring chief and their several
+tribes; but in a war-council held by them, it had been arranged
+for him to pay a secret visit to the island, in order to inspect
+it, and endeavour to find out its weakest parts. Accordingly,
+leaving his mountain home in Dominica, he had paddled himself
+over in a slight canoe, and easily discovering the cave, which
+had been well-known to the tribe in their former predatory
+visits, he took up his abode there.
+
+Zulmiera listened eagerly to this communication; and excited as
+she was, thought it a good opportunity for effectually procuring
+her revenge. After arranging for the safety of Raphe de
+Merefield, to whom she had been long engaged, she finally
+promised, that upon an appointed night, she would open the doors
+of government house, and admit the band of Caribs. Ignorant of
+the real force of Antigua, and led away by her own turbulent and
+romantic passions, the Indian girl wrongly supposed that a few
+half-armed Caribs would be able to strike terror into the breasts
+and compete with the well-arranged ranks of the English. In
+consequence of this wild fancy, Zulmiera further proposed, as her
+reward, that when the battle was gained, and the English
+defeated, she should be immediately elected queen, and Raphe king
+of the Caribbees. Many other meetings had taken place between
+herself and the Carib chief; and she concluded her relation, by
+informing Raphe of the arrival of the whole band of Caribs, and
+that the hour of midnight was the time proposed for the intended
+assault upon government house.
+
+The surprise, the consternation of the young man, as she unfolded
+this tale to him, was overpowering, and for some moments he
+remained as if rooted to the ground. At length, striking his hand
+upon his forehead, he exclaimed, in a tone of extreme bitterness—
+“Oh! Zulmiera—Zulmiera! what hast thou done! Surely it is some
+horrible dream; and yet it is too true; thou couldst not have
+distressed me so, an’ it had not been. To-night, sayest thou?
+Unhappy girl, thou hast indeed dashed the cup of happiness from
+thy lips! Now I understand thy visible emotion—thy half-smothered
+expressions! But I must away—the lives of hundreds, perhaps, hang
+upon my steps;” and darting from her, he left her to the deepest
+feelings of despair.
+
+Leaning against the tree for the support her own limbs denied
+her, the unfortunate Zulmiera remained with her face buried in
+her hands, until aroused by the sound of footsteps. Hastily
+looking up, Raphe again stood before her. “Dearest Zulmiera,”
+said the pitying young man—“rouse thyself; I cannot leave thee
+thus; all may yet be well. I will immediately to the governor,
+and without implicating you as my author, inform him of the
+inpending attack. Much as I dislike the man, it is my proper plan
+—so now dry your eyes,” for the warm tears were again gushing
+down the cheeks of the repentant girl; “return to the house, keep
+yourself quiet, and trust the matter to me.” So saying, he
+imprinted a fond kiss upon her brow, and turning away, hastened
+with a quick step in the opposite direction.
+
+Mastering her emotions, Zulmiera returned to her home,
+determined, when the evening fell, to seek the cave, and if
+possible, persuade Cuanaboa of the impracticability of his
+schemes, and by that means, prevent the effusion of blood, which
+a meeting of the Caribs and English was sure to produce.
+
+In the meantime, Raphe sought the presence of the governor, and
+without bringing forward Zulmiera’s name, contrived to give him
+the necessary information, and then departed, taking upon himself
+the office of scout. Preparations were immediately made for the
+intended attack—ambuscades arranged, and fire-arms cleaned; and
+with anxiety the party awaited the rising of the moon.
+
+As the day grew to a close, Zulmiera became more and more
+restless, until at length, unable to bear the conflict of her
+feelings, she left the house, and, unperceived by the family,
+sought the promised meeting in the cave. The sun had sunk behind
+the waves, and the stars began to peep forth, as the half-Carib
+gained the entrance of the wood. Carefully threading her way
+through its tangled bushes, and avoiding as she went the numerous
+impediments, she gradually progressed deeper and deeper in its
+thickening gloom. The air was calm, and nothing disturbed the
+almost pristine stillness but the whisperings of the soft breeze,
+or the shrill cry of some of the aquatic fowls who made that
+lonely grove their home. In some parts the foliage was less
+thick, and the beams of the now rising moon forced their way
+through and snorted upon the ground, forming many a fantastic
+shadow. Uprooted and sapless trees lay in various directions,
+around which parasites wound in luxuriant beauty, and hid the
+whitened wood in wreaths of green. In other parts, the larger
+trees and shrubs made way for dense thickets of thorny underwood,
+over which the active girl was obliged to leap.
+
+Onward she sped, stopping only now and then to recover her
+breath, and then darting forward at increased speed, until,
+gaining a little knoll, where pointed crystals strewed the
+ground, and the manchineel showered its poisonous apples,
+beautiful and treacherous as “Dead Sea fruits,” a mark in one of
+the trees told her she was near the place of her destination; and
+winding round another thicket, Zulmiera stood before the mouth of
+the cave.
+
+The interior was lighted by a few torches of some resinous wood,
+stuck in the fissures of the rock; and their flickering light
+shone upon the dark countenances and wild costume of the inmates.
+Branches of trees roughly plaited together were placed partly
+before the opening, and served to screen the light of the torches
+from the view of any wandering stranger; while the ground before
+the entrance to the cave had been cleared away, forming a kind of
+rustic amphitheatre.
+
+As soon as the maiden was perceived, Cuanaboa came forward, and
+introduced her to Guacanagari, and a few of their principal
+followers, who only appeared to be waiting for her presence, to
+commence their solemn dance, as was ever the custom of the
+Caribs, before undertaking any warfare.
+
+Darting from the cavern, about twenty of these wild warriors
+arranged themselves in a circle around an old woman, known among
+them by the name of Quiba, who, squatting upon the ground,
+chanted, in a monotonous voice, the burden of a war-song: the men
+moving slowly, and joining in the chorus—“_Avenge the bones of
+your fathers, which lie whitening upon the plain!_” Continuing
+this revolving motion for some time, but gradually increasing in
+celerity, they at length appeared as if worked up to the highest
+pitch of their passions; and releasing each other’s hands, and
+twirling round and round with the greatest rapidity, tearing
+their hair, and gnashing their teeth, at length threw themselves
+upon the ground, foaming with rage.
+
+Zulmiera, terrified at their frantic movements and horrid
+contortions, tremblingly leant against the trunk of a tree,
+until, aroused by an exclamation from the old woman, she
+perceived another party of savages, apparently of meaner grade,
+bringing in large calabashes and baskets, huge pieces pf baked
+meats, and bowls of some kind of liquids. Placing them upon the
+ground, they retreated; and old Quiba, quitting her recumbent
+posture, seized upon one of the pieces of meat, and throwing it
+among the prostrate warriors, exclaimed, in a cracked voice—“_Eat
+of the flesh of your enemies, and avenge your fathers’ bones!_”
+
+As she uttered these words, the men sprang from the ground, and
+rushing upon the viands, devoured them with savage greediness;
+while Cuanaboa, lifting up one of the smaller pieces of meat,
+approached Zulmiera, and, with harshness, requested her to eat
+it. Alarmed at his ferocious manner, but not daring to shew it,
+the trembling girl essayed to obey; and putting a portion of it
+into her mouth, by a strong effort swallowed it. No sooner was
+this effected, than, breaking into a horrid laugh, and with his
+eyes gleaming like the hyæna’s, Cuanaboa shouted to the old
+woman, who had just before entered the cave—“Bring forth our
+present for our queen; surely, she deserves it, now she is one of
+us!”
+
+Startled by his evident irony, Zulmiera turned round, at the
+moment that Quiba emerged from a natural passage in the interior
+of the cave, bearing in her hand a small bundle, which, with a
+sardonic grin, she laid at the feet of the observant girl.
+“There, lady; that is our first present,” croaked forth the old
+hag. “Ay, lift it up, and search it well; Mayboya will stand your
+friend, and send you many more, I hope.” So saying, she hobbled
+up to one of the torches, and taking it from its resting-place,
+held it before the face of Zulmiera.
+
+Impelled by an irresistible desire to know the worst, Zulmiera
+stooped and undid the folds of red cloth wound around their
+proffered gift. After untwining it for some time, the wrapping
+felt damp to the touch; and dreading she knew not what, she
+loosed the last fold, _and a human head rolled upon the ground_.
+
+Uttering a cry of horror, but forced on by her unconquerable
+emotions, she turned the gory object round; and as the torches
+flashed with further glare, her eye fell upon the pallid
+features. The blue eye, glassed by the hand of death, and over
+which the starting eyelids refused to droop—the parted lips,
+parted with the last throe of agony, and shewing the pearly teeth
+—the finely-moulded cheeks, but disfigured by a deep gash—and the
+long auburn hair, dabbled with the blood that still oozed from
+the severed veins, bespoke it Raphe de Merefield’s! Her own blood
+congealed around her heart like ice—her pulse quivered and
+stopped—and with one unearthly, prolonged shriek, the unfortunate
+Zulmiera sank senseless upon the ground.
+
+Recovered by the means of some pungent herb applied to her
+nostrils, by the hands of Quiba, she awoke to all her misery. Her
+eyes fell again upon the mutilated head of her lover; while the
+demoniac voice of Cuanaboa whispered in her ear—“The food you
+partook of just now _was part of the body of your minion!_ I met
+him wandering in the copse a time agone; and I thought he would
+make a fine sacrifice to Mayboya.” This last horrible information
+completely altered her nature, and changed the fond loving girl
+to the disposition of a fiend. Lifting up the head, and
+imprinting upon the blood-stained lips one long fervent kiss, she
+enveloped it again in the wrappings of red cloth, and carefully
+binding it around her waist, was in the act of quitting the cave,
+when arrested by the powerful grasp of Cuanaboa.
+
+“Not so fast, lady!” exclaimed the Carib chief; “remember your
+oath to Mayboya! We still stand in need of your assistance to
+guide us to the house of yon white chief. Remember that was part
+of your bargain: let us in; and when we have vanquished the
+enemy, we shall still be willing to receive you as our queen;
+that is, if you will agree to take _me_ for your king instead of
+the pale-faced boy, whose body has served to regale us and our
+people.” With eyes that flashed fire, Zulmiera was about to
+reply, when suddenly constraining herself, she simply muttered—
+“My oath to Mayboya!—follow me, then!” and with determined
+purpose, left the cavern.
+
+The whole party of Caribs, consisting of about eighty, were by
+this time gathered around the spot, armed with bows and arrows,
+clubs, darts, spears, and all the other rude implements of
+warfare. As the two chiefs made their appearance, they pointed to
+the moon—then rapidly ascending the heavens—and uttering a
+suppressed war-whoop, they commenced their march in the direction
+of government house, preceded by the half-Carib.
+
+Unconscious of pain, Zulmiera darted through the thorniest
+thickets, turned not aside for any impediment; but borne up by
+the hopes of revenge, she outstripped the most active of the
+party. Knowing, as she did, that the inmates of government house
+were prepared for the attack, she felt assured that few, if any,
+of the Caribs would escape; but completely altered in
+disposition, from the effects of the horrible scenes she had gone
+through, she experienced no compunctious feelings for the event.
+Her only wish, her fixed purpose, was to possess herself of a
+dagger—stab Cuanaboa to the heart—_drink his warm blood as it
+gushed forth_—and after bathing the head of her lover with it,
+kill herself upon the spot. To deceive Cuanaboa, she pretended
+that her fear of Mayboya led her to conduct the party, an
+assurance which his own blind zeal for that dreaded deity caused
+him to believe.
+
+In furtherance of her dreadful scheme, she carefully avoided
+those spots where she supposed an ambuscade of English might be
+stationed; fearing lest some other hand should take the life of
+the chief. In this manner she was gradually progressing towards
+the house, thinking it more probable a weapon could be there
+procured, when in passing a clump of trees, one of the governor’s
+scouts, who was stationed behind it, and who was unable to bear
+the sight of the Carib chief so near him without endeavouring to
+take his life, sprang from his concealment, and rushing upon
+Cuanaboa, was in the act of stabbing him with a dirk, when, with
+the cry of some infuriated wild animal robbed of its prey,
+Zulmiera was upon him. Wresting the weapon from the astonished
+Englishman, the maddened girl fled after the Caribs, who, abashed
+by this encounter, and the sudden appearance of a troop of
+soldiers, were flying in the greatest confusion, and at their
+utmost speed, in direction of the before-named creek, where they
+had left their canoes.
+
+Many of the Caribs fell wounded by the way, from the fire of
+their pursuers’ muskets; but Cuanaboa, closely attended by
+Zulmiera, still kept on, until after passing over the same
+undulating ground, forcing their way through thickets, leaping
+over natural barriers, and creeping through leafy arcades, they
+gained upon the creek. But woe to the Caribs! a party of English,
+in hot pursuit, were, in fact, driving them into a trap, at the
+point of their weapons. Throughout this irregular and hurried
+retreat, Zulmiera had never dropped her dirk, or her gory burden;
+neither had she lost sight of Cuanaboa; while the chief, seeing
+her dash the weapon from his uncovered breast, when one stroke of
+the Englishman’s hand would have caused his death, thought she
+had forgiven his horrid barbarity, and was well pleased to see
+her nigh him.
+
+As they emerged from the deeper glades of the wood, a volume of
+smoke rose above the trees; and upon gaining the open ground, the
+whole extent of their danger was revealed to the Caribs. There
+lay their canoes, a burning mass; while the foreground was
+occupied by another band of Englishmen, ready prepared for
+battle. Hemmed in on all sides, the Caribs fought with the fury
+of uncaged beasts, and sold their lives dearly. Many of the
+English were stretched upon the ground, a flattened mass, from
+the blows of their heavy clubs; while others, wounded by their
+poisoned arrows, only lived to endure further torments. Still
+Cuanaboa remained unhurt; and standing upon a gentle knoll,
+brandished his club, and dealt destruction upon the foremost of
+his enemies. His friends were rapidly falling around him; and as
+he turned to seek for refuge, Zulmiera approached him
+unperceived, and with one blow, drove the dirk into his very
+heart.
+
+Without a groan, the Carib chief sank dead upon the earth; and
+Zulmiera, kneeling by him, plucked the weapon from the wound, and
+applying her lips, _drank the warm blood as it gurgled forth!_
+Unbinding the head of the unfortunate Raphe de Merefield from her
+waist, where she had carried it throughout the fray, she gazed
+ardently at it; tenderly parted the still bright hair, imprinted
+a last kiss upon the cold lips, and then taking up in her hand
+some of the vital stream, which was still flowing from the wound
+of Cuanaboa, and forming a pool around him, she bathed the head
+with it, exclaiming as she did so, “Raphe, thou art avenged!
+thine enemy lies dead before thee, slain by my hand; and thy
+bride, faithful in life and death, comes to share thy gory bed.”
+
+These actions completed, she looked up. The dying and the dead
+lay stretched around her,—the conquering English were looking to
+their captives,—the last gleam of the fire was shooting upwards
+to the sky,—the moon had gained her zenith,—while, as if in
+contrast to that bloody field, the waters of the creek rolled on
+like molten silver, beneath her lovely beams. For one moment the
+wild but beautiful girl gazed upon the scene; old remembrances
+sprang up in her mind, and brought the tear into her eye. But
+dashing them away, she regained her former implacable mood; and
+as a party of the governor’s servants came forward to arrest her,
+placing one hand upon her lover’s head, she raised with the other
+the dirk—its bright steel glittered for a moment in the moonbeam—
+in the next it was ensheathed in her heart; and she fell a corpse
+upon that dire chief, to whom she owed all her misery.
+
+The scene of this Antiguan tragedy may still be viewed; the creek
+bears the name of “Indian Creek,” while the cavern in which they
+held their barbaric meeting is called “Bat’s cave.” The governor
+retained his office until 1660, when Charles II. was restored to
+the vacant crown; but refusing to acknowledge his sovereign, he
+was superseded, and the vacant post was filled by Major-General
+Poyntz, a royalist, who continued to act as governor until 1663,
+when Lord Francis Willoughby obtained a grant of the island.
+
+The name of Raphe de Merefield (the uncle of the young cavalier)
+appears with that of Sir Thomas Warner in the original grant
+signed by Charles I. It is still to be seen at “Stoney Hill,”—an
+estate belonging to the late Samuel Warner, president of Antigua,
+and a descendent of the old family. This property was willed by
+him to his god-son, ——— Shand, Esq., of the house of Messrs.
+Shand, Liverpool.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+
+
+  Towns: Falmouth—Church and churchyard—Mangroves and acacias—
+  Black’s Point—Bridgetown—Willoughby Bay—Its site and decoration
+  —The superintendent of the Wesleyan schools—School-room—
+  Methodist chapel—The Memoras—St Philip’s church—Beautiful views
+  —Parham—Its derivation and site—St Peter’s church—Churchyard—
+  The new church—Methodist chapel and school-room.
+
+In the year 1675, six towns were appointed in Antigua as places
+of trade—viz., St. John’s, Falmouth, Old Road, (or Carlisle
+Road,) Bridgetown, Willoughby Bay, Bermudian Valley, and Parham.
+
+St. John’s, as the _capital_ of the island, has already been
+noticed in a chapter by itself, and it now devolves upon me to
+endeavour to describe, what is almost indescribable, the
+arrangement of the other towns, which, with the exception of
+Bermudian Valley, are still in a state of existence.
+
+To commence with Falmouth. As it lies just before the traveller
+gains English Harbour, the road to it is the same already
+mentioned in our journey to that place; and consequently another
+description would be tiresome and superfluous. I must, however,
+remark that near the entrance of the town a pretty turn in the
+road leaves the blank-looking country, which so generally
+predominates between Falmouth and the capital, and leads you into
+a kind of defile; on one side, bordered by rugged banks thickly
+covered with the yellow acacia, and its sweet-scented blossoms;
+and on the other, by the picturesque ascent of Monk’s Hill,
+surmounted by all its frowning battlements.[97]
+
+The town of Falmouth is noted for being the first part of the
+island settled upon by the English, who, under the command of Mr.
+Warner, son of Sir Thomas Warner, emigrated from St.
+Christopher’s in 1632, and laid out the surrounding country in
+fields of tobacco, cotton, and ginger, which were for some years
+after the staple commodities of Antigua.
+
+Humble as might have been the architectural ornaments of this
+town in those early days, it seems almost an impossibility to
+suppose them less then than they are at present; for if strangers
+(from some of our bustling maritime cities in Europe, for
+instance) were suddenly and unconsciously landed in the streets
+of Falmouth, they would to all certainty believe them to be so
+many pathways to the “castle of indolence;” and the irregular and
+dismal-looking buildings to be the habitations of some lawless,
+vagrant tribe. A few four-cornered houses, in shape like a
+pigeon-coop, and of dimensions to suit a dweller of _Lilliput_,
+are elevated a short distance from the ground by being placed
+upon empty boxes or barrels, or four pillars of rudely-piled
+stones, which arrangement forms a snug retreat for the pigs or
+poultry of the inmate, or serves as a reservoir for sundry
+discarded pots and pans, or other “household gods.” These
+habitations are as variously placed as the taste of their owners
+may chance to dictate. Some present an acute angle, others a
+_broadside_ to the eye of passengers. Some stand in what I
+suppose is intended to represent a garden, whose rank weeds and
+straggling vegetables are guarded from the steps of the unwelcome
+marauder only by a _gate_, made from empty candle-boxes or
+barrel-heads, flanked by a thinly sprinkled row of some dwarf
+shrub, over which the gallant “Xit” (whom Mr. Ainsworth has so
+cleverly called into existence in his admirable “Tower of
+London”) could have stepped with the greatest ease; letting alone
+the frequent lapses in the enclosure, through which a bulky man
+might readily pass. To make all secure, however, these rustic
+gates are generally garnished with a huge padlock, which is of
+course _carefully_ locked whenever the owner is absent; while the
+key, with admirable precaution, is tucked into some little
+peep-hole near, that it may be ready for the use of any stray
+visitants.
+
+A few of these dwellings are, however, of superior form and
+fabric; and one stands forth in all the glories of palisading,
+and if I mistake not, bright green verandahs. It looks, by the
+side of its pigmy neighbours, like the Colossus of Rhodes, to the
+mandarin figures in our English grocers’ shops.
+
+The present church, dedicated to St. Paul, is a plain,
+uninteresting-looking building, standing at the outskirts of the
+town, and capable of affording about 400 sittings.
+
+The churchyard might be made as picturesque, and looks as quiet,
+as some of those pretty rural burial-places we oftentimes alight
+upon in dear old England’s sequestered nooks. Some fine trees,
+and a few handsome monuments, are to be met with; and if the rank
+grass was cleared away a little, and some of the various
+beautiful flowers, which are to be found in all parts of the
+island, planted there, it would present a spot equalling in
+appearance many of our modern cemeteries.
+
+It may by some be thought folly thus to beautify the place of
+death—to garnish that spot where the worm revels upon the once
+animated clay!—to plant the gladsome, gaily-tinted flowers where
+all is mouldering beneath! Be it so—yet would I see the flowers
+blooming over the grave of those I have loved, and while seated
+near, feel that the bitterness of death is past, and that their
+happy disembodied spirits range, free from all sorrows, amid the
+amaranthine bowers of heaven! Like the late talented and
+oft-lamented “L. E. L.,” I love to frequent the scene of our last
+resting-place—like her, to—
+
+    “Stand beneath the haunted yew,
+    And watch each quiet tomb;
+    And in the ancient churchyard feel
+    Solemnity, not gloom.
+
+    The place is purified with hope—
+    The hope that is of prayer;
+    And human love, and heavenward thought,
+    And pious faith are there.
+
+    The golden cord which binds us all
+    Is loosed, not rent in twain;
+    And love, and hope, and fear unite,
+    To bring the past again.”
+
+The parochial school is held in a small house near the church. It
+is conducted upon the same plan as the other schools of the kind
+in Antigua; the instruction consisting of lessons in reading,
+writing, arithmetic, repetition of catechism and hymns, and
+plain-work for the girls.
+
+St. Paul’s has a chapel-of-ease in English Harbour; which was, in
+truth, a private dwelling-house, but now, disencumbered of its
+partitions, serves as a chapel, and is capable, it is said, of
+affording accommodation for 350 persons; during the week, it is
+appropriated to the use of an infant school.
+
+The whole of Falmouth is thickly studded with clumps of acacia,
+privet, and prickly pear; all of which are of the _thorny
+family_, and if report be true, serve the inhabitants instead of
+pins. Between Falmouth and English Harbour lies a marshy thickly
+covered with sand, and dotted about with groups of
+mangrove-trees, in all their glittering, green foliage, forming
+so many _oases_ in the midst of a burning desert. The sea
+overflows this spot at times, and leaves its tribute in the shape
+of small shells and bunches of sea-weed.
+
+Opposite to Falmouth, looking across the waters of the harbour, a
+bold promontory stretches out into the ocean, to which has been
+given the name of “Black’s Point.” As it belongs to a gentleman
+of that name, it is generally supposed in Antigua, to derive its
+cognomen from that cause. Such supposition is, however,
+incorrect, for it is laid down in an old chart of the island as
+“Black’s Point” long before its present possessor came into
+existence. The real origin of its bearing that appellation is
+from the fact of its having been the place where it was customary
+to land the cargoes of newly-imported negroes, prior to the
+abolition of the slave trade; and from this circumstance the name
+it now bears was given to it.
+
+Falmouth Harbour is considered one of the best in Antigua, and is
+capable of affording safe anchorage for ships in those times of
+danger to which the West Indies are exposed. The shores of the
+bay boast their silver fringe of sand, which is often selected by
+the parent turtle, as a place of safety, in which to deposit her
+two or three hundred eggs; and when the sun has performed the
+duties of incubation, which the lethargic mother refuses to
+perform, numbers of these little creatures may be seen, crawling
+towards their favourite element, where they feast and fatten,
+until, perhaps, in after-years, they are doomed to increase the
+table store of some Antiguan _gourmand_, or, perchance, find
+their way to England, and tickle the palate of “the lord mayor,
+and the other city authorities” within the sound of Bow bells.
+
+Old Road (or Carlisle Road, as it was once called) and St. Mary’s
+church having been already described, in our “pilgrimage to Tom
+Moore’s Spring,” it remains for me, in the next place, to mention
+Bridgetown, or Willoughby Bay, as it is more frequently termed.
+Here, again, I have the task of describing, what is almost _a
+nondescript_, for no stranger would ever discover that it was a
+town unless the fact were pointed out to him. If the man who
+painted a lion was obliged to write under it, “This is a lion,” I
+am sure the person who huddled the three or four houses together,
+which constitutes Bridgetown, had need to have put upon a
+giant-like placard, “This is a town!” unless, indeed, a rather
+good-looking Methodist chapel, a small mission-house, a stone
+dwelling-house, with school-room attached, and a few of my
+_four-cornered_ friends, stuck in here and there, like the dots
+in a landscape of some country painter, to represent _crows_, be
+sufficient to merit for it that lofty title, which Dr. Johnson,
+or some other lexicographer of equal renown, leads us to suppose
+signifies “a large collection of houses.”
+
+As regards the population of this _town_, (I like to give places
+their proper names,) I can give but little information. With the
+exception of the very kind-hearted superintendant of the Wesleyan
+schools, Mr. Charles Thwaites, and his equally amiable wife,
+their very pretty little boy, one or two domestics, and their
+scholars of every shade, the only inhabitants I saw were flocks
+of black-headed gulls, busily employed in following their
+piscatory avocations; a few half-starved looking sheep, vainly
+endeavouring to screen themselves from the fiery beams of the sun
+beneath the leafless branches of some blighted shrubs; and three
+or four long-necked, screaming birds, known in this part of the
+world as gorlings, and which derive their subsistence from the
+same source as their neighbours, the gulls.
+
+After resting for a short time at the superintendant’s dwelling,
+we proceeded to the school-room, a most commodious apartment,
+measuring 50ft. by 48ft., and capable of containing 500 persons.
+The whole of this establishment, including the superintendant’s
+house, which is detached, was erected by the Church Missionary
+Society; but after being used by them for a short time, it was
+turned over to the “Ladies’ Society,” to whom it still belongs,
+although the Wesleyan Mission holds its school there.
+
+The school-room was but thinly attended upon the day of our
+visit, there not being more than 40 children—the usual number is
+about 100. Upon our entrance, they all rose up with “We’ll make
+our obeisance together, as children ought to do,” and then,
+quitting their raised seats, formed into double lines, their
+teacher at their head, and marched round the apartment to the
+tune of one of their infant rhymes. After performing many
+martial-like evolutions, they finally arranged themselves into a
+deep phalanx, and thus sang another of their little songs. Many
+of them are proficients in reading the scriptures, and are well
+versed in the historical parts of them. I hope and trust the
+education so liberally bestowed upon them, and above all, the
+religious instruction which they receive, may benefit their
+after-conduct, and lead them to do their duty in that sphere of
+life in which it has pleased their Creator to place them. I was
+much pleased to learn from Mr. Thwaites that, in almost every
+instance, the pupils who have left the schools under his charge
+have followed agricultural employments. To a country whose grand
+resource, and, indeed, entire dependence, is placed upon the
+cultivation of the sugar-cane, this conduct upon the part of its
+rising generation must be very important; and if the lower
+classes continue to do so, and not, because they are free,
+despise the hoe, Antigua may stand forth as pre-eminently
+flourishing among the other West Indian colonies.
+
+Mr. Thwaites is the paid superintendant of all the Wesleyan
+country schools. His salary is 150l. sterling per annum, a small
+recompence (although quite as liberal as the mission can afford)
+for the constant care his responsible situation calls for, and
+which he performs with untiring zeal. For about twenty-nine years
+has this good man been employed in providing for the mental wants
+of the black population, and in endeavouring to lead their young
+minds to the only fount of real knowledge. Unmindful of passing
+events he has kept on his irksome task, (for irksome it must be
+to drive knowledge into the brains of some of these little
+negroes,) buoyed up by his feelings of deep philanthropy.
+
+The first few years of his employment were passed without
+receiving any reward, but the approval of his own conscience. As,
+however, his laudable exertions became known, he was engaged by
+the “Church Missionary Society,” whose interests he faithfully
+served for near ten years. Since that period he has been in the
+employ of the Wesleyan mission. Although from being such a
+valuable auxiliary in rearing “the infant mind,” and teaching
+“the young idea how to shoot,” the bishop would gladly have
+retained his services, provided he gave up all connexion with the
+Methodists.
+
+Mr. Thwaites has under his charge eleven day-schools, with about
+800 scholars; and three Sunday-schools, with about 900 scholars.
+Besides attending these several schools, Mr. Thwaites visits the
+neighbouring estates in the evenings, for the purpose of giving
+the labourers religious instruction, and guarding his elder
+pupils, or those who have left his schools, for the purpose of
+engaging in the avocations customary to their province in life,
+against those temptations to which their age and sex are most
+subject.
+
+It has been remarked in a late publication, (in commenting upon
+events in Antigua) that “after ransacking the whole freed
+population for a dozen suitable teachers of children, Mr.
+Thwaites could not find even that number who could read well.”
+Now, this is a great error, _and altogether contradicted by Mr.
+Thwaites himself_. The blacks certainly had not the means of
+improving themselves in former years, as the more fortunate
+generation have had since emancipation; but that the _whole_
+class were so totally ignorant as not to be able to _read_, is
+entirely incorrect. In proof of this, the superintendant pointed
+out to our notice several teachers who were well adapted for
+their employment; one in particular, who, Mr. T. remarked,
+conducted a school consisting of 120 scholars, which he
+instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic, in which last
+branch of education many of his pupils had attained to “Practice”
+and “Vulgar Fractions.”
+
+The salaries of these paid teachers (of which there are
+seventeen, the remainder giving their services without any
+recompence) are very small—not more than from three to four
+dollars (12s. and 16s. sterling) per month. They are paid by the
+“Ladies’ Negro Education Society,” and other benevolent societies
+in England, who also defray the other expenses of the schools,
+with the exception of the superintendent’s salary, which is
+provided by the Wesleyan mission. The children, who receive
+instruction in writing, cyphering, and needlework, pay a small
+pittance, which is placed in the school fund.
+
+There is a very neat and excellent little library attached to the
+Willoughby-Bay school, where the works of “Abbott,” “Sherwood,”
+“Pike,” and various other pious authors, are open to the use of
+all, besides treatises upon geography, history, and experimental
+philosophy. The lighter works, such as Mrs. Sherwood’s pretty,
+and often affecting, little narratives, are read, Mrs. Thwaites
+informed me, with avidity by the negroes, to which intelligence
+their well-thumbed covers gave a tacit assent. Around the
+schoolroom were hung various cards, with texts of scripture
+printed upon them in large characters, that “such who run may
+read”—a practice I greatly admire, for turn whichever way you
+will, some goodly sentence meets your eye.
+
+In the neat little yard attached to Mr. Thwaites’ dwelling, we
+met with some old friends of mine—a small wooden hive of “busy
+bees.” A pane of glass inserted into the box gave us a view of
+the industrious little creatures building their waxen cells, in
+which to store their fragrant food; but the weather was against
+them—the long drought had withered the flowers, and thus
+curtailed their stock of honey. There are very few bee-hives to
+be met with in Antigua. This is rather strange, as all Creoles
+are noted for having a “sweet tooth,” and consequently honey is
+reckoned a luxury. It cannot be from want of proper food, that
+the labours of these little insects are discountenanced, for
+Nature has been most prodigal of her stores to Antigua, and
+clothed her every hill and dale with melliferous blossoms.
+
+I have heard of one gentleman, however, who was very anxious to
+establish an apiary upon his property in Antigua, and accordingly
+he obtained some choice hives, which in due time were safely
+deposited in his well-stocked garden. Soon after their arrival,
+however, business called him from the island, and he committed
+his valued bees to the care of his overseer, a true son of
+Hibernia, with an expressed hope, “that they would not wander
+from home.” The day after his departure, the overseer, wishful of
+obliging his employer, stole from his multitudinous duties a
+sufficient time to watch the movements of his buzzing charge. The
+bright sun drew them from their hives, and jocund in their little
+hearts, away they bounded on the balmy zephyr. Innumerable
+flowers dazzled their eyes, and courted their attention. Here the
+gorgeous _hybiscus_ spread out its glowing bosom—there the
+blushing _frangipanne_ loaded the air with its rich fragrance. At
+one moment they inserted their trunks into the sweet-scented cup
+of the jasmine; at the next, and they brushed the pearly dew from
+the brilliant radii of the passion-flower. Onward they flew,
+allured by flowerets of every colour, each one as
+
+    “Fair as the fabulous Asphodels;”
+
+until at length, to the dismay of the overseer, they were lost to
+sight! He was no naturalist: he had never studied “Réaumur” upon
+the “habits of bees,” and as the last straggler disappeared, he
+thought “Well! Mr. ——— hoped they would not wander from home, but
+by St. Patrick they’re all gone, and if they ever come back is a
+query.” However, as nothing could be done, he was obliged to
+leave them to their fate; and in a rather disconsolate mood, “he
+turned and left the spot.”
+
+Hours wore away,
+
+    “The evening came, the sun descended,”
+
+and the truant insects returned to their hive, to the great joy
+of the observant overseer. “Ah! ah!” said he, as they alighted,
+heavily laden with their luscious store, “a pretty trick you have
+played me to-day; but by my patron saint, I will take care of you
+to-morrow.” He watched until they were all safe housed; and then
+with hurried steps, and self-congratulatory hitches of the
+shoulders, he sought the spot where masons had been lately
+working. Providing himself with some of the soft mortar, he again
+visited the apiary; and with ready will, and determined purpose,
+applied to the opening of each hive a sufficient quantum of the
+cement, so as to effectually forbid the egress of any bee. It is
+almost needless to mention, that upon the return of the
+gentleman, whose absence had been protracted, he found his
+favourite insects defunct; nor need I animadvert upon the
+vexation his overseer’s management of an apiary caused him.
+
+To resume my subject—which the bees, and their untimely fate,
+drove from my head: after inspecting the school, and expressing
+our gratification, we proceeded to visit the Methodist chapel, a
+stone’s throw from the school-room. It is a plain wooden
+building, measuring 45 feet by 60 feet, and capable of containing
+900 sittings. The burying-ground is attached, and serves as the
+place of interment for the whole town, and some part of the
+adjoining country. Adjacent to the chapel is the mission-house, a
+neat little domicile for such an extraordinary-looking place as
+Bridgetown.
+
+There is nothing interesting about Willoughby Bay. No glittering
+white sand, or clear blue water with its dazzling surf to be
+seen. A line of blighted, sickly-looking bushes shuts out the
+sight of the beach; and the part of the bay which greets our eyes
+looks gloomy and discoloured, as if from lurking reefs and
+shoals. Upon the opposite side of the bay, looking across the
+water, lies the Memoras, a long ridge of rocks, over which the
+sea rushes with tremendous force, and with a deafening noise,
+which may be heard at a considerable distance. Upon a still day,
+the angry moan of the waves can be clearly distinguished at
+Bridgetown. Willoughby Bay derives its name from Francis Lord
+Willoughby, who in 1663 was made Lord Proprietor of the whole
+island, by a grant from Charles II.[98]
+
+St. Philip’s, the parish church, is situated upon an ascent, at
+some distance from Bridgetown, and commands one of the finest
+views to be met with in any part of the country. The eye ranges
+with delight over sloping hills and open glades; wood-crowned
+mountains, and silent valleys. Sugar plantations, in all the
+beauty of high cultivation, spread out their fields of rich and
+wavy green beneath our feet, interspersed with groups of simple
+negro huts, almost hid in their leafy enclosures; while on all
+sides, the ocean stretched out its interminable blue waters. It
+was a lovely day when we visited the spot,—
+
+    “The whispering winds were half asleep,
+    The clouds were gone to play,
+    And on the woods, and on the deep,
+    The smiles of heaven lay.
+
+    It seem’d as if the day was one
+    Sent from beyond the skies,
+    Which shed to earth above the sun,
+    A light of paradise.”
+
+Of the first church dedicated to St. Philip no account can be
+given; but most probably it was built about the year 1690. The
+second church to that saint was erected about 1717. It was a
+wooden building, and no doubt possessed but little claim to
+architectural beauty. The present church is one of the prettiest
+I have seen in the West Indies. It is built of the smooth
+freestone, so generally found in Antiguan quarries; the only
+fault is, that they are cut too small, which, at a distance,
+gives them more the appearance of white bricks.
+
+The plan, like many of the other Antiguan churches, is cruciform;
+but there is so much chasteness displayed in the simple
+arrangement of the interior, that it must please every eye. The
+large oriel window is furnished with ground-glass, of the most
+elegant, yet simple devices; and the neat pulpit and desk,—the
+altar, gallery, and pulpit rails,—the wooden columns which
+support the roof,—the pews and doors, painted in excellent
+representation of rich-grained oak, please by their uniformity.
+They are in the gothic style. The decorations of the altar are
+very plain, merely consisting of the tables of the Commandments,
+the Lord’s Prayer, and the Creed.
+
+Leaving the town of Bermudian Valley (of which I think there is
+scarcely a relic) “alone in its glory,” we come to Parham, the
+remaining place of trade appointed during the time Col. Rowland
+Williams held the deputy-governorship of Antigua. Parham takes
+its name from the title of Lord William Willoughby of Parham. In
+1697, after the decease of Christopher Codrington, Esq., (the
+elder,) Parham appears to have been the residence of the
+lieutenant-governor, in preference to St. John’s; and this
+circumstance gives rise to the statement of some authors, that
+Parham was once the capital of the island. It is another of those
+strangely straggling places whose streets are in many parts
+bordered with dagger (_aloe vulgaris_) instead of houses; but
+still it is far superior to Bridgetown, for some of its edifices
+boast of covered galleries, or balconies, flights of stone steps,
+and many other decorations.
+
+The parish church of St. Peter’s, the second of the name, is an
+old dismal looking building, whose outward appearance is enough
+to give the observer a fit of that fashionable complaint,
+dyspepsia. It was erected in 1754, and affords 300 sittings. St.
+Peter’s has a chapel-of-ease, the private property of the Rev.
+Nat. Gilbert, a descendant of the “founder of Methodism” in
+Antigua, who was speaker of the house of assembly in 1764.
+
+From some strange freak, or else from dire necessity, Parham
+churchyard is situated at about two miles distance from the
+church and town. It was formerly surrounded by a brick wall, but
+that is all falling to ruin. A more desolate-looking
+burying-ground I never saw—not a tree or flower near it; the very
+birds in their aerial wanderings seem to shun the spot.
+
+At a short distance from St. Peter’s is fast rising into
+existence what will prove, when finished, a very neat and pretty
+church. It is an irregular octagonal—that is, the sides are not
+of equal dimensions. It is built of the same kind of stone as St.
+Philip’s; but has a better effect, from the blocks being cut of
+larger size. The base of the tower is constructed from the
+interior; but in its present unfinished state, (1842) with all
+its multiplicity of scaffolding and frame work, it is impossible
+to say what will be the effect; except, as I have before
+remarked, it will no doubt make a pretty appearance when
+completed. The architect is an Englishman, and the head mason (a
+black man) appears to be well-versed in the mysteries of his
+trade, to judge from the excellent smoothness in the joints of
+the walls, and from a very neat key-stone which he has
+sculptured. This church is intended to take the name and service
+from the old one, which will then be dismantled.
+
+Besides the episcopal church, Parham boasts a very neat little
+chapel belonging to the Wesleyans, with a good stone
+mission-house and school-room adjoining. The general number of
+scholars at this school is seventy, including girls and boys;
+although upon our visit to it, there were not more than
+thirty-five. The school-room is a very airy and commodious
+building, capable of containing 600 or 700 persons. The children
+which compose the school are of every age, from three to
+fourteen. The instruction given them is plain, but good—
+scriptural knowledge, reading, spelling, writing, and arithmetic,
+with needlework for the girls. There are no pictorial
+embellishments in this school-room, merely a few selections from
+the Scriptures, cards of multiplication, and some black-painted
+boards upon which the children practise their little sums with a
+piece of chalk.
+
+The Wesleyan missionary stationed at Parham, the Rev. Mr.
+Keatley, (who appears to be a very amiable man,) mentioned as a
+well-known fact, that the schools in the country were always
+better attended the three first days in the week, and that after
+that period very few children made their appearance. Probably
+this is owing to their parents employing them in some domestic
+business which is more necessary at the close than at the
+beginning of the week.
+
+Parham harbour, although it affords safe anchorage when gained,
+is dangerous to the inexperienced navigator from the number of
+shoals and reefs which encumber its approach. It also contains
+some few islands, of which Bethel’s Island is the largest. This
+harbour is protected from the inroads of the enemy by Port Byam,
+erected upon Barnacle Point, and which derives its name from
+Colonel Edward Byam, some-time governor of Antigua. It is said
+that within the precincts of this fort, Colonel Byam had a small
+room erected, where he was in the habit of receiving and
+entertaining a party of Caribs, who came yearly from some of the
+neighbouring islands, in order to smoke their calumets of peace
+with that gentleman.
+
+To the southward of Parham rises a curious hill, which is
+supposed to be the work of art, and to have answered for the
+burying-place of the ancient inhabitants, the Caribs. An old
+writer speaking of this tumulus, describes it as “in form a long
+square, very regular in all its parts, lessening gradually from
+its base to the top, which is flat, and may be from five to six
+hundred feet long, and from forty to fifty feet high.”
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[97] From the summit of Monk’s Hill, the eye can range over the
+whole island of Antigua, with the exception of one part, where
+the mountains intervene. The principal work, named Fort George,
+is mounted with pieces of cannon, said to have been taken in the
+“Foudroyant” man-of-war, in one of the many conflicts between the
+French and English.
+
+[98] For the genealogy, and a general account of this family, see
+Appendix.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+
+
+  Forts and fortifications—Temporary ones—The present forts—Fort
+  James—Its situation and approach—Rat Island Battery, its
+  appellation, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff—Goat Hill—Steep
+  ascent—Schools in St. John’s.
+
+It might be imagined that where nature has done so much for her
+favourite isle in the way of barricading it, by giving to Antigua
+a bold rocky coast, _art_, in the shape of forts and batteries,
+would be less called for. This, however, is not the case; the
+island coaster meets with many an embattled point, and many a
+sea-girt cliff supports the frowning walls of a battery.
+
+The forts in Antigua are Fort James, Rat Island Battery, Goat
+Hill or Fort Barrington, Old Fort, Johnston’s Point Fort, Old
+Road Fort, Falmouth Fort, Fort Black’s Point, Fort Charlotte and
+Fort Berkley at the entrance of English Harbour, Fort Christian,
+Fort Isaac, Fort William, Fort Harman, Flat Point Fort, Old Fort,
+and Fort Byam; Parham Harbour, Dickenson’s Point Battery,
+Corbison’s Fort, and Fort Hamilton. Of these, the greater part
+were merely temporary fortifications erected in those days of
+warfare when the French and Caribs, in their shallops and
+perrigoas, used to make such frequent attacks upon the island.
+Still, dismantled as many of these forts became in after-years,
+when peace spread her soft pinions over the lovely group of the
+Antilles, they retained their _names_, and served as sinecures to
+those persons who, from favouritism or superannuation, were
+exempted from militia duty, prior to the abolition of that body
+during the administration of Sir W. Colebrooke.[99]
+
+The fortifications at present in use are, Fort James, Rat Island
+Battery, Goat Hill, Fort George, Fort Johnston’s Point, Old Road
+Fort, Monk’s Hill, and the forts at English Harbour.
+
+Fort James was erected about the year 1704-5, on a spot of ground
+known as St. John’s Point, which was given to his majesty Charles
+II., by Col. James Vaughan, in 1680. It is situated at the
+entrance of St. John’s Harbour, and commands at once a beautiful
+and extensive view, while, from its frowning battlements, a
+deadly and raking fire could be poured upon the adventurous enemy
+who dared its anger. The rock upon which it is built appears to
+overhang the sea; and the waves, from constantly fretting and
+foaming around its base, have completely undermined it. If all
+proper precautions be not taken, the fort and its accompaniments
+will, some day, probably make a rapid descent into the yawning
+gulf beneath, and its avenging weapons no longer vomit forth
+their flaming breath upon the dauntless vessel who dares to pass
+it, without tendering to its captain his expected dole.[100]
+
+Fort James mounts but few guns, the rest are making themselves
+beds deep in the earth. This is one of the happy results of
+peace. Those murderous weapons repose in quietness, and that they
+may ever do so is my fervent prayer. A gun, however, is fired at
+sunrise and sunset; and her majesty’s ships, as well as vessels
+of war belonging to other nations, are complimented with a grand
+discharge. The arrival and departure of the governor, members of
+council, &c., also call for a similar mark of honour. Serious
+accidents sometimes occur at such periods. A few months ago one
+of the matrosses had his arm so severely shattered by overloading
+the instrument when saluting a French man-of-war, that it became
+necessary to amputate the limb immediately. He has now happily
+regained his former health, and is employed upon the fort as a
+schoolmaster.
+
+The captain of Fort James receives 150l. sterling per annum, and
+the residence is one that many would gladly inhabit. Under him
+are stationed twelve matrosses, who receive very good pay. For
+the use of these last-mentioned persons, a temporary chapel has
+been established within these last few years, through the
+instrumentality of the Rev. John Horsford, Wesleyan missionary,
+son to the former governor of the fort, by which happy means they
+are enabled to attend Divine service once on the Lord’s day.
+
+The road from the capital to Fort James, a distance of about four
+miles, is not very noted for the interest it displays. As the
+traveller nears the fort, an arm of the sea runs far inland,
+twisting and twining its rippling waters amid the clumps of
+aquatic shrubs in a most snake-like manner. Through this,
+equestrians and pedestrians, the emblazoned carriage, and the
+more humble gig, alike have to pass, while shoals of fairy-like
+fish dart from their parent waters in all directions; and as the
+sunbeams catch their silvery scales, almost blind the looker-on
+with their dazzling coruscations.
+
+Rat Island Battery is of itself a most picturesque object, as the
+stranger approaches Antigua. It lies within the harbour of St.
+John’s, and takes its name from some fancied resemblance to that
+most destructive little quadruped, a rat. I cannot say this
+isapparent to my eyes, but the believers in such a similitude say
+that the rock personates the body of the animal, while the
+causeway which connects it to the main land plays the part of a
+tail. I have already mentioned the lunatic asylum lately erected
+upon this rock, whose whitened walls look cheerfully down upon
+the waters beneath, and little tells the observer how many
+darkened minds wander within them. The flag-staff upon Rat Island
+is often gaily decorated with various flags, and with a beating
+heart my eyes have often sought it, for there I learn the tidings
+that another packet has arrived from my native land, and, as I
+hope, brought me one of those little packages traced with “a grey
+goose-quill,” and telling that those who are so dear to me are
+enjoying health and happiness in Old England.
+
+Goat Hill crowns the summit of a lofty hill upon the opposite
+side of the harbour to Fort James. When passing it by sea, our
+surprise is excited when we consider how it is possible to
+transport the heavy artillery and stores up the steep ascent; but
+the road is winding, and the difficulty is much sooner overcome
+than would be supposed. It was on the site of this fort that the
+French landed, in that memorable attack upon, and reduction of,
+the island in 1666. Near the base of Goat Hill, two peculiar
+shaped and blackened rocks rear their bare heads above the sea,
+around which the waves dash their lustrous foam with loud and
+angry moanings. The remaining forts, with the salaries of their
+several captains, and the means by which they are paid, will be
+found in the statistical portion of this work.
+
+From the forts, I proceed to mention the “Mico Charity” School at
+St. John’s, where instruction is given in various branches of
+knowledge. Upon my visit to this school, I must say I was
+surprised to find among the dirty ragged little negroes, which
+comprised it generally, a herd of geographers, historians, and
+grammarians. The head-master happened to be absent, but a
+messenger was immediately despatched to call him; and, upon his
+arrival, the examination commenced, which I left entirely to
+themselves, wishing to see their own mode of tuition.
+
+The room, or rather rooms, were hung round with various pictorial
+embellishments, consisting of some very beautiful lithographed
+designs, representing the most interesting and affecting scenes
+in the Old and New Testament—birds and animals, fruits and
+flowers, steam apparatuses, machinery of all descriptions, modes
+of every branch of agriculture, and some excellent maps.
+
+A stand was placed in the middle of the apartment, and a boy of
+about twelve or thirteen took his station by the side of it, with
+the “wand of office” in his hand. It was now announced by the
+master—“Those boys who wish to ask questions, please hold up
+their hands,” when immediately about eight or ten, of the same
+age as the one stationed in the middle of the room, replied by
+the motion required, while an air of animation sprang to their
+eyes, and lightened the dusky hue of their complexions. The first
+question was proposed by a boy, black as the late member of
+parliament’s celebrated blacking, but whose scanty habiliments
+bore many a mark from the finger of time, and many a stain upon
+their once fair colour. “Who was Hannibal?” Answer, from the boy
+near the stand—“A Carthaginian general, who defeated the Romans
+in two engagements.”
+
+It was now his turn to propound—“How is the true situation of any
+place upon the globe shewn?” Answer, from an intelligent-looking
+little mongrel boy, who was in such haste to reply, that it
+called for the aid of the master to render his rapid utterance
+understood—“By the intersection of that imaginary circle, which
+we call a parallel of latitude, with the meridian of the place in
+question.” Having replied to this query, he asked the boy at the
+stand—“Who was the first Roman emperor that visited England, then
+called Britain, and in what year?”
+
+This was a puzzler. He could not answer to it; so he lost his
+conspicuous station, which was occupied by the more fortunate
+querist.
+
+Various other questions were then proposed in history and
+chronology; after which, an examination in the Old and New
+Testaments commenced—the interrogatories being still propounded
+by the boy: “Who was the man that climbed up into the tree, to
+see Jesus pass?” “Zaccheus.”—“Where did Moses die?” inquired a
+pretty little girl. “On Mount Pisgah,” was the answer. A tall,
+rather grim-looking boy, started up, and, in a sepulchral-toned
+voice, asked—“What is the difference between Pisgah and Nebo?”—
+“Nebo appears to have been a point, or pinnacle, of Mount
+Pisgah,” replied a shrimpish boy by his side.
+
+An excellent map of the world was then brought, and attached to
+the stand in the middle of the apartment, so that the eyes of the
+whole school could rest upon it. The greater and lesser circles
+were then pointed out, the meaning of longitude and latitude
+defined, the form and divisions of the earth mentioned and
+descanted upon, and the sun’s path through the ecliptic
+described.
+
+The question was then proposed to the school—“Would you like to
+sing?”—“Yes,” from every lip. “You must promise to sing very soft
+and sweet,” quoth the master. “Soft and sweet,” reverberated from
+the whole of the scholars, like the tongue of an echo. Then came
+the “soft and sweet,” as they termed it; and if the _burden_ of a
+song could give _melody_ to the lips, it would have been more
+sweet than “the breath of the south wind upon a bed of violets,”
+as Avon’s favoured bard once sang; for it was all about our dear
+little Queen Victoria. To the tune of this loyal ditty they
+marched round the room, each class divided by their several
+teachers, carrying a pile of books, and then formed into
+semicircles, to be exercised in reading, writing, arithmetic,
+spelling, and grammar. Their spelling was very fair; many of them
+wrote a good hand; they all appeared conversant with the four
+first rules of arithmetic; and as for grammar, they talked about
+present tenses, and perfect participles, nouns, adverbs, and
+conjunctions, definites and indefinites, until I began to think
+they must have been born with a “Lindley Murray” in their mouths.
+I wish I could speak as well of their reading; but I suppose boys
+who talk about Hannibal and Artaxerxes, ecliptics and globular
+projections, and descant upon the merit of tenses, esteem it too
+common-place to read correctly words of two or three syllables.
+
+The average number of boys and girls attending this school is
+from 140 to 160; although, from the prevalence of the measles
+upon my visit, there were not more than half that number there.
+Young men are also received in this establishment as candidates
+for teachers; 100 of whom have, within these last four years,
+been disseminated throughout the schools in Antigua, and some of
+the other West India Islands, as fully qualified for instructing
+the rising generation in all the necessary branches of education.
+
+After experiencing the erudition of these advanced scholars, we
+passed into another part of the establishment appropriated to the
+use of the infant school. Here we found about sixty little
+creatures, two or three, to eight or ten years of age, seated
+upon their benches, raised one above the other—the elder ones
+occupying the upper tier.
+
+This apartment was also garnished with its pretty prints and
+Brobdignagian alphabets, and possessed its coloured maps and
+stands. The exercises were conducted in a similar manner as those
+in the other part of the seminary: an intelligent-looking little
+black boy taking his place by the centre stand, beside the map of
+Palestine, and answering very fluently the various questions
+proposed to him by the other children, at the same time pointing
+out the places. “Where did Jesus turn water into wine?” asked one
+of the little girls. “Cana, in Galilee.”—“Who got his cedars from
+Lebanon?”—“Solomon,” &c. They then sang one of their pretty
+little songs, to the tune of which they marched round the room,
+and, formed into classes, read, from a selection of pieces, “Dr.
+Franklin’s Whistle.” It was too difficult for them, and they
+bungled sadly through it; for although, like the elder pupils,
+they were geographers and historians, they had not made much
+progress in the art of reading. Their lessons over, they sang an
+anthem; and then, after a short prayer offered up by the master,
+the school broke up, and away they started with whoop and song,
+leaving me to ponder in my brain how far their manifold knowledge
+would benefit their after progress through life.
+
+Besides the Wesleyan and Mico schools, Antigua is further
+supplied with “repositories of learning,” belonging to the
+established church and the Moravians. Our worthy rector, zealous
+in every good work, has a pleasing little infant-school near the
+rectory, besides schools in various other parts of the town and
+country. The Moravians have large schools at their different
+settlements; and a boys’ and girls’ school, with infant-school
+attached, adjoining their chapel in St. John’s. I visited this
+last-mentioned school twice; but I am unable to speak of the
+acquirements of the scholars—they having been dismissed soon
+after my entrance, upon both occasions. They appear to cultivate
+the art of singing; for I heard them join in Mrs. Hemans’ “Better
+Land,” to the accompaniment of a small, but very sweet-toned
+organ, played by their superintendent. If I may be allowed to
+judge of the manners of the children, (which, I own, would not be
+quite right,) by those of the female teacher, I should be
+inclined to say, they were far behind any of the other schools I
+have visited in the island; for she appeared totally deficient in
+politeness or agreeable behaviour.
+
+I have thus endeavoured to shew that Antigua abounds in schools—
+the exact number of which will be found in the chapter on
+statistics. I sincerely hope that the benefits arising from them
+may be permanently felt by the lower classes, and that the
+patrons of these schools may reap the reward of their
+philanthropy. There are some sad examples: (sorry am I to be
+compelled to say so!) where, instead of improving, education has
+but tended to lead further into the paths of error; for the very
+passages of Scripture that have been taught them—the doctrines of
+salvation which have been inculcated, these unhappy creatures
+pervert to raise their ungodly mirth. Oh, how do our ears become
+shocked at every turn of the street, at every hour of the day, by
+the language of this class of persons! while that great and holy
+name, “at which every knee shall bow,” is bandied about as a
+common interjection.
+
+There are some to be met with among the negroes whose display of
+learning is very ludicrous. We have a servant now living with us
+who often calls up from me an involuntary smile. I heard her
+speaking the other evening to a fellow-servant, whose name is
+Diana. “Diana, my goddess! come here. Let me see, Diana was the
+goddess of _truth_, and Junus the goddess of _sleep_, and so you
+must not tell me a story, or go to sleep!” Diana did not appear
+to comprehend this burst of eloquence, and so her friend went on
+to explain to her, that as “_Airy_ was the ram, and _Callus_ the
+bull, Virgo was a lion, and Quaris was a water-pot;” she must bow
+to her superior knowledge in everything. To this, Diana humbly
+assented with “Ees, Miss Charlotte!” accompanied by a stare of
+amazement. I don’t wonder, however, at poor Diana’s surprise at
+her friend’s knowledge; I am sure she often startles me. Another
+evening, I saw her standing in the yard, with outstretched arms,
+and upturned eyes, gazing upon a bright star, which twinkled
+above, while in a very lackadaisical tone, she exclaimed, “Oh,
+Mars! _invoke_ me by thy rays!”
+
+I hope, however, what I have said in this last page will not
+discountenance those worthy characters who are employed in
+opening the book of knowledge to the eyes of the ignorant. In the
+words of a much-admired writer, “the delightful hope may be
+cherished by him who shall bring his mite for the promotion of
+the Lancastrian system of instruction for giving knowledge to the
+ignorant—the hope that he is providing for the display of a
+genius in works of the highest utility, which might otherwise
+have expended itself in a career of infamous contrivance, long
+operating as a pest to society, terminating in the ignominious
+destruction of the victim of the want of education. And when the
+intimate connexion between _ignorance_ and vice is considered,
+surely all who wish to lessen the sum of the latter will assist
+the endeavours that are now making to plant the tree of knowledge
+amid the desert and deformed waste;—to convert that which is now
+cheerless and blank into a field of profuse beauty teeming with
+the real wealth and strength of nations.”
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[99] Several of these forts were sold by the legislature, after
+the conclusion of the war with America.
+
+[100] It has been the custom, although the _law_ does not command
+it, to pay to the captain of this fort 18s. currency, for every
+vessel, no matter what her tonnage, passing from the harbour. As
+there are many owners of small crafts in Antigua, whose pockets
+are not so well provided with this world’s wealth, as to enable
+them to fling it abroad upon every occasion, they are glad to
+take advantage of the absence of necessity, and retain for their
+own use the two dollars, which custom or caprice has reserved for
+the commandant, and pass the fort without paying the tribute.
+This conduct is generally resented by despatching after the
+offending vessel an angry message, in the shape of a cannon-shot.
+It appears extraordinary, that such a monstrous and illegal
+proceeding as firing upon the vessels should be permitted, or at
+least tacitly sanctioned by the government.
+
+
+
+
+                        CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+
+
+  Remarks upon the aboriginal Americans—Suppositions of various
+  authors—Caribs—Arrowawks—Ferocity of the Carib—Complexion—Dress
+  —Ornaments—Dreadful revenge—Wars-Chiefs—Severities practised—
+  Feasts—Remarks upon paganism—Anthropophagi—A traveller’s tale—
+  The Carib’s opinion of death—Religious tenets—Altars—The
+  burning Carib.
+
+It may perhaps be proper to remark, that although this work has
+been entitled, “Antigua and Antiguans,” still, as I have
+commenced its history from the period of its first discovery, it
+will be necessary to say something about its ancient inhabitants,
+the Caribs. As it is impossible at this lapse of time, to give
+the history of the individual tribe who peopled this island, I
+have been obliged to gather my information from what the early
+writers have transmitted to posterity, of the habit and customs
+of the entire nation. Consequently, while I am writing of the
+Carib of Antigua, or, as the island was called at that period,
+“Xamayca,” I must at the same time allude to those of the other
+islands; only remarking, that ferocious as they all were, the
+Carib of this country seems to have borne the pre-eminence in
+hardy daring and relentless animosity toward their conquerors. In
+the same manner, I have thought proper to give a short account of
+the discovery of America, as antecedent to that of this island;
+and as, in furtherance of my plan, I have introduced Columbus to
+my readers, from his boyhood, it is but right I should trace the
+Caribbean nation from their source. With this apology for trying
+the patience of my readers, while I write of a people whose
+existence is no more, I will proceed with my subject, which I
+hope may neither prove foreign nor unpleasant.
+
+To enter into minute inquiries how America and its contiguous
+islands were _first peopled_, would fill many volumes, the
+opinions of the learned upon this subject being so various. Some
+authors suppose the Americans do not derive their existence from
+the same common parent as the rest of mankind. Others, that they
+are descended from a remnant of the antediluvian world which
+survived the deluge; but this must be erroneous, or how are we to
+understand the sacred historian, when, speaking of that momentous
+circumstance, he says—“And all flesh died that moved upon the
+earth, both of fowl, and of cattle, and of beast, and of every
+creeping thing that creepeth upon the face of the earth, and
+every man. _All_ in whose nostrils was the breath of life, _of
+all that was in the dry land, died!_”—Gen. vii. 21, 22. Again,
+many authors assert that their ancestors came from the north-east
+of Asia, after the dispersion of the people for their impious
+attempt to build the Tower of Babel; and to establish this
+doctrine upon a firmer basis, endeavour to point out the great
+similitude between the Asiatics and the Southern Americans, in
+their manners, customs, and general appearance. Another, and
+perhaps the most probable idea, is, that the _southern_ parts of
+North America, and the islands which lie in the Gulf of Mexico,
+and the Caribbean Sea, were originally peopled by Africans. This
+idea is maintained by various speculations:—as the trade-winds
+blow direct from east to west, a canoe of these savages might
+have been driven by bad weather across the Atlantic; and this
+position may be further proved by the statement of the Indians of
+Florida, who, when asked about their origin, reply, “that their
+ancestors came from the east, and that at the time they
+discovered America, they were nearly dead from want of
+provisions.” These Africans, uniting with the different tribes
+with which the other parts of America were peopled, must have
+produced the various degrees of colour and character which
+astonished so much the first discoverers of this extensive
+quarter of the world.
+
+The Caribs, from whom Antigua and the adjoining islands took
+their names, were a very different race of beings from the gentle
+and hospitable inhabitants of Cuba, Jamaica, Hayti, &c., who were
+called Arrowawks, and with whom the Caribs were ever at war. From
+the martial and ferocious spirit of the Caribs, and from their
+repasts upon human flesh, historians agree in supposing they were
+descended from the Africans; while, on the contrary, the
+peacefulness and indolence of the Arrowawks evidently bespeak
+them of an Asiatic origin.
+
+When Columbus visited these islands for the first time, he found
+the inhabitants so very savage, that he was for a while fearful
+of landing; but upon despatching small presents to them, they
+afterwards appeared more friendly, and desirous of an
+acquaintance. In nearly all of their huts were found relics of
+their horrid feasts upon the bodies of their slaughtered enemies;
+and in one of them, a man’s arm was roasting for the intended
+meal of the inmates.
+
+The character of the Caribs presents little of what is
+interesting to the imagination; ferocious, superstitious, and
+revengeful, they looked upon all strangers as enemies; and, in
+return, were dreaded as such by the inhabitants of the other
+islands; still they are represented as being, generally,
+peaceable and friendly to one another. They ever retained a high
+sense of equality and independence. Accustomed to be absolute
+masters of their own conduct, they scorned to follow the orders
+of others; and having never known control, they would not submit
+to correction. Many, when they found they were treated as slaves
+by the Spaniards, and that resistance or escape was impossible,
+sought refuge from calamity in the arms of death. While the Carib
+roamed in his native wilds, his reason was but little exercised,
+and consequently, his intellectual powers were very limited. His
+ideas never extended beyond the narrow sphere in which he moved,
+and everything but his present preservation and enjoyment was
+perfectly indifferent to him. When disposed to sleep, no
+consideration on earth would tempt him to sell his bed; but in
+the morning, when satisfied with slumber, and prepared to set out
+on the usual business or recreation of the day, the Carib has
+been known to dispose of it for the smallest trifle which caught
+his fancy. The only thing they deemed of _real_ value, was their
+weapons—consequently, when they found, by sad experience, the
+superiority of fire-arms over the bow and arrows of their own
+country, they viewed them with unbounded admiration; but the
+inventions and improvements of civilized life, with all the arts
+and manufactures of the Spaniards, they regarded with apathy, or
+paid them the same attention as we do the toys of childhood.
+
+Columbus noticed two distinct races of Caribs. One was quite
+black, with hair approaching to woolly; the other, of a deep
+copper colour complexion, with long, straight hair; the latter
+inhabited Antigua and the adjoining islands, while the blacks
+predominated more in the islands further south. In appearance,
+the Caribs were robust and muscular; their limbs flexible and
+active. They ornamented their hair with shells and grease; and
+some of them had it turned up like women, and decorated with thin
+plates of gold, which they procured from the Arrowawks. Their
+garments were composed of cotton cloth, fabricated by their
+females, and which they had the art of staining red, their
+favourite colour; but many of them were in a state of nudity. The
+cartilage of the nostril was perforated, and in it they stuck a
+piece of tortoise-shell, the bone of a fish highly polished, or a
+parrot’s feather. They adorned their arms, neck, and ankles, with
+the teeth of their enemies which they had slain in battle, or
+devoured at home. Their bodies were painted in the most hideous
+manner, which appears to have been intended to make them look
+more formidable in the eyes of their enemies than pleasing in the
+sight of their friends. The favourite style of doing this, was
+first to smear a quantity of red paint all over them; they then
+encircled one eye with a streak of white, and the other with one
+of black; they also disfigured their cheeks with deep incisions
+and horrible scars, which they stained with various colours; and
+the greater number and depth of these disfigurations constituted
+their idea of manly beauty, and martial appearance.
+
+Their revenge was deep and implacable—it resembled rather the
+wild fury of a lion than the passion of a man. When anger took
+possession of a Carib’s heart, he vented it against everything,
+whether animate or inanimate, which chanced to fall in his way.
+Although in general calm and apparently insensible to pain, if
+struck by an arrow in these moments of rage, like the North
+American Indian, he would tear it from the wound, bite it, spit
+upon it, and, dashing it to the ground, trample it to atoms
+beneath his feet. He never pitied—never forgave—never spared! To
+fall upon an enemy unarmed, knock him down, capture him, and
+finally eat him, was the boast of a Carib warrior! For this they
+were bred up from their youth. To bear with an unflinching spirit
+the most excruciating torments, inflicted by the hands of his own
+father and nearest kin—to suffer all the severities and unnatural
+cruelties which the savage breast was capable of imagining
+without betraying one symptom of weakness—to rise superior to
+pain, and baffle the rage of his persecutors by calmness and
+tranquillity, was the test by which the courage of the young
+Carib was tried. If he succeeded in this, he was looked upon as
+one of the warriors of his country, and pronounced “a man like
+themselves;” while, on the contrary, should one cry escape his
+lips, one supplication for mercy break from him, he was despised
+as a coward, and driven from society.
+
+When an expedition against the Arrowawks was intended, a chief
+was elected, with solemn ceremonies. During the time of peace,
+however, the Caribs appear to have owned no head; they paid,
+indeed, some little veneration to the old men, but this appears
+to have been merely from respect to their age,—at any rate, they
+were not able, by their influence, to protect the weak or the
+stranger. The man who aspired to lead his countrymen to war was
+obliged to undergo the most severe sufferings before he was
+accounted worthy of that honour. If he was successful, upon his
+return he was treated with a grand feast, and was allowed to take
+as many captives for his own share as he liked, and alter his
+name a second time to that of the most formidable Arrowawk who
+had fallen by his hand, while his own people presented for his
+choice the most beautiful of their daughters. Their mode of
+warfare was very different to that of the present day,—they
+thought it no honour to fall fighting for their country. Their
+plan was, not to wait for a drawing up of their forces, but to
+capture all their foes they found unprepared, whom, at the end of
+the war, they carried home, and either slaughtered them for the
+grand feast, or kept them until they became sufficiently plump
+for eating. They preserved the fat of these poor creatures to
+anoint the bodies of their children, in hopes of making them as
+martial as themselves.
+
+Happy for us is it that we live in an age when Paganism, with all
+its accompanying horrors, has given place to the mild doctrines
+of Christianity—when this land, so beautified by the hand of
+Nature, is freed from those barbarous wars, those soul-sickening
+feasts of human flesh, which once polluted it! That man can
+actually devour his fellow-creatures is almost incredible—indeed,
+some persons of philosophical minds have doubted the truth of
+anthropophagy; yet, shocking as it is to the imagination, it has
+been too fully proved to be denied; indeed, some of the Caribs,
+when, in later years, they have been asked about this revolting
+practice, have unhesitatingly answered in the affirmative, and
+even gone so far as to say that Frenchmen eat better than
+Englishmen, and Englishmen better than natives.[101] Although,
+within these last years, so much has been effected by the
+laudable zeal of Christian missionaries, yet, even now, there are
+“dark corners of the earth” where human flesh is not only eaten
+from feelings of revenge, but partook of as a luxury.[102]
+
+I read in a periodical, some time ago, a circumstance which may
+be termed a romance of real life. I pretend not to give it in its
+original words, but the tenour of the case is as follows: A
+gentleman was once travelling through the interior of Grenada, or
+Trinidad, I am not certain which, and after riding for some time
+through rocky defiles and umbrageous woods, he at length came to
+an open plain, on which was erected about half a dozen Carib
+huts. Riding up to the door of the principal one, an old man was
+seen reclining upon a rustic seat, who at the approach of the
+stranger arose, and, with much native politeness, invited him to
+alight, and spend the day at his hut. The gentleman, being one
+who was travelling in pursuit of knowledge as well as amusement,
+was well pleased to have the opportunity of becoming a little
+acquainted with the domestic manners of this ancient people.
+After walking about for some time, and making sketches of the
+various beautiful scenes which surrounded the hut, his attention
+was arrested by the plaintive cry of a female. Having a good
+supply of the “milk of human kindness” within his breast, and a
+heart open to the distresses of his species, the traveller
+determined to go in quest of the afflicted fair. Directing his
+steps by the sound of the voice, which appeared to issue from a
+magnificent grove of trees near the spot, he soon came in sight
+of the object of his commiseration, whom he found to be, not a
+fair, but a dark beauty, of sixteen or seventeen years of age.
+Her long black hair floated down her naked shoulders; the tears
+were rolling over her smooth brown cheeks; while her languishing
+dark eyes were turned with mournful looks upon the face of a man,
+who, with knitted brow, was employed in fastening her slender
+wrists to one of the trees. Supposing she had committed some
+fault for which she was about to receive corporal punishment, the
+gentleman begged very earnestly for her pardon; and from the
+smile which passed over the harsh features of the man, he thought
+his request was complied with.
+
+The day passed very rapidly, and our traveller was delighted with
+all he saw. His host was all attention, pointing out to his
+notice whatever he thought would amuse; and when dinner was
+announced, ushered him into his hut with the air of a French
+_petit-maitre_. The dinner table was laid out in the English
+style, in compliment to his guest; and the calabashes which
+contained the water &c. were beautifully carved and stained. The
+first refreshment introduced was soup, which was contained in an
+English tin tureen, that shone like silver; and from the keen air
+of the mountain, and the exercise he had taken, our traveller
+made a very hearty repast upon it. After its removal, and while
+waiting for the other viands, the host asked—“How he liked Carib
+soup?” “Excellent!” said the gentleman—“very delicious—I must beg
+a few receipts from your _cookery book_.” “O, it’s very simple,”
+replied the old Carib, “if you have the proper articles to make
+it of: what you have been eating was made from the hands and feet
+of the girl you were begging for this morning!” What were the
+feelings of the traveller at this horrible information can be
+better imagined than described. The repast he had _shared in_,
+the fate of the poor girl, and his own situation amid a race of
+cannibals, filled him with horror, and almost drove reason from
+her throne. It is almost unnecessary to state that he left the
+scene of bloodshed as soon as possible; and never, never more did
+he think of visiting a Carib, or partaking of _Carib soup_. I
+have given the story as I received it; as to its _authenticity_,
+I will not take upon myself to vouch for it.
+
+With regard to the religious rites and tenets of the Caribs but
+little can be said, for but little is known with any degree of
+truth. They appear to have an idea that death was not a final
+extinction of being; but that the soul (or rather souls, for it
+was the general opinion among them that every pulse that beat in
+their bodies was a _separate_ soul) went to another world, where
+they enjoyed themselves very much after the manner they did in
+this, and that their bows and arrows were as necessary there as
+here. For this reason they buried the weapons in the graves of
+their friends, and inhumed several captives with them, that they
+might have attendants in “the land of spirits.” Some authors
+assert that they acknowledged one great universal Cause, to whom
+they gave the name of “Mayboya,” who was invisible to them, but
+who watched their actions, and heard their words; that this being
+possessed an irresistible power; and that subordinate to him were
+many other gods. Other writers, however, maintain that the Caribs
+had not even a name for a deity; and that after death they
+believed they decayed away like the animals they were acquainted
+with. Which was the fact is a matter of surmise; but Columbus
+mentions that in several of their huts were seen little altars
+composed of banana leaves and rushes, and that upon these were
+laid offerings of fruit, fish, flowers, &c. It seems probable
+that their religious principles were like those of other savages,
+suggested rather by the dread of impending evils, than gratitude
+for favours received. “We can all forget benefits, although we
+implore mercy,” was their motto.
+
+Some of the Caribs pretended to be magicians, and worshipped
+demons with rites and ceremonies of the darkest superstition:
+these people were termed Boyez, and in them was placed implicit
+faith. Upon the discovery of these islands, the Spaniards
+endeavoured to convert the natives to Christianity; but the means
+used to accomplish this were diametrically opposite to what they
+ought to have been. Instead of setting it forth as a doctrine of
+love and mercy, and inculcating its precepts with mildness and
+humanity, they shewed at once the bloody tenets of the church of
+Rome, and condemned those to the stake who did not immediately
+subscribe to their opinions.
+
+This manner of proceeding, instead of converting the Caribs, only
+fixed firmer in their minds their dislike to the intruders; they
+witnessed their quarrels among themselves, their ferocious and
+implacable resentments, their insatiable thirst after gold, and
+the cruelties they perpetrated in searching after that metal. Can
+it be wondered at, then, that they did not believe the
+superiority of the Christian religion, as taught by the
+Spaniards, over their own? or that the rites of baptism, which
+they could not understand or appreciate, were despised by them?
+
+One of these unhappy people being condemned to be burnt for his
+attempts to save his country from the encroachments of its
+conquerors, was promised, by a Roman-catholic priest, admittance
+into heaven if he would only embrace the Christian faith before
+he died. “Are there any Spaniards in that region of bliss you
+tell me of?” inquired the unhappy victim. “Yes,” replied the
+priest; “but only such as are good.”—“Then I will never go there,
+where I may meet with one of that accursed race; for the _best_
+of _them_ have neither worth nor goodness.” And from the cruel
+treatment these islanders met with, there was but too much reason
+in this exclamation.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[101] Some authors assert that this is only vanity in the French;
+that they think so highly of themselves, that even in the
+_interesting_ point of being eaten, they will not allow the
+pre-eminence to other nations.
+
+[102] “The New Zealanders are perpetually carrying on war with
+each other, to which they are stimulated, not by thirst of
+conquest, but by the desire of eating the flesh of their
+antagonists!”—See Prichard’s “Researches.”
+
+                         END OF VOL. I.
+
+         T. C. Savill, Printer, 107, St. Martin’s Lane.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I
+(of 2), by Anonymous
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+Project Gutenberg's Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I (of 2), by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I (of 2)
+       A full account of the colony and its inhabitants from the
+       time of the Caribs to the present day
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: February 7, 2012 [EBook #38788]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS, VOL I ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Paul Flo Williams
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                            ANTIGUA
+                       AND THE ANTIGUANS:
+
+
+
+                       A FULL ACCOUNT OF
+                 THE COLONY AND ITS INHABITANTS
+                  FROM THE TIME OF THE CARIBS
+                      TO THE PRESENT DAY,
+            Interspersed with Anecdotes and Legends.
+
+                             ALSO,
+
+              AN IMPARTIAL VIEW OF SLAVERY AND THE
+                      FREE LABOUR SYSTEMS;
+                 THE STATISTICS OF THE ISLAND,
+      AND BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF THE PRINCIPAL FAMILIES.
+
+          "Sworn to no party, of no sect am I."--Pope.
+
+                        IN TWO VOLUMES.
+                            VOL. I.
+
+                             LONDON
+              SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET.
+                             1844.
+
+                             TO THE
+                HONBLE ROWLAND EDWARD WILLIAMS,
+
+         LATE CAPTAIN IN THE 10th REGIMENT OF HUSSARS,
+         ONE OF HER MAJESTY'S PRIVY COUNCIL IN ANTIGUA,
+
+                    THE LINEAL DESCENDANT OF
+           THE FIRST WHITE CHILD BORN IN THAT ISLAND,
+        AND THE FRIEND AND BENEFACTOR OF ITS INHABITANTS
+                    OF EVERY HUE AND COLOUR,
+
+                           This Work,
+
+           DESCRIPTIVE OF ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,
+                  IS, BY HIS KIND PERMISSION,
+                           INSCRIBED
+              BY HIS FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED SERVANT,
+
+                                                     THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+                            PREFACE.
+
+
+
+Although in the present day the writing of a preface may be
+considered almost a work of supererogation on the part of an
+author, since it is that portion of a work seldom or ever looked
+into, still, as custom demands the form, and there may be some
+among my readers who may desire to learn what first led me to
+undertake this work, I am induced to follow the fashion, more
+especially as on one or two points I am desirous of offering a
+few words of comment and explanation.
+
+Not being a native of the West Indies, and visiting that part of
+the world for the first time at an age when all looks bright
+around us, the novelty of the scenes which passed before my eyes
+struck me forcibly, and induced me to make notes of the
+impressions I then received. Pursuing the same practice at
+subsequent visits, and during prolonged residences, in process of
+time my memoranda expanded to a considerable bulk. The increasing
+interest I took in everything relating to Antigua, led me to
+inquire into its early history, and to search out the origin of
+the numerous ancient families whose descendants have resided in
+the island from the period of its colonization.
+
+Some of my friends in the island who had become acquainted with
+my pursuits, were gratified by the specimens of my labours, which
+were exhibited to them, and urged me to throw my scattered notes
+into form. I yielded to their solicitations, and the result has
+been the following pages, which, while they afford a condensed
+history of the colony from its earliest days, present also a
+record of the impressions produced on one, at first, fresh from
+English society, but now, by long continued residence, become
+almost an Antiguan; having, it is hoped, lost all relics of
+English prejudice, but not become so biassed by her new
+connexions, or blinded by the many charms of Antigua or Antiguan
+society, as to hold the scales of justice unevenly.
+
+Having been resident in Antigua both before and after the passing
+of the Emancipation Act, and having had ample opportunity of
+judging of the practical effects of that memorable event, the
+observations I have made with relation to it may not be
+considered altogether unimportant.
+
+In perusing the early history of the colony, the English reader
+may be surprised to find how many men of family became early
+settlers in the West Indies; but when the eager spirit of
+adventure which immediately followed the enterprises of the
+Spaniards, and was so eminently conspicuous in the days of
+Elizabeth, is called to mind--when the causes which drove the
+"pilgrim fathers" forth are recollected, together with the
+numerous emigrations which took place from England, when the
+Royalists, in their turn forced to become fugitives, mostly
+sought a refuge in the West Indies, at first a safe and
+sanctioned asylum, till the very amount of the fresh influx of
+Royalist opinions made the West Indies a thorn in Cromwell's
+side, and compelled him to have recourse to strong measures to
+secure their obedience to his will,--when all these causes are
+considered, it becomes no longer a matter of wonder that much of
+the best blood of England runs in the veins of the people, not
+only of Antigua, but of the West India islands generally.
+
+In justice to the character of the country which I have learned
+to love, I must, although unwillingly, notice another and a most
+painful subject. I refer to the exceedingly harsh laws passed
+respecting the slaves, and the shocking executions of those
+concerned in the insurrection in 1736. In relation to the former
+point, it is sufficient to observe that such laws are almost
+inseparable from the institution of slavery itself, and that the
+stigma affected the mother country equally with her colonies,
+while it redounds to the honour of Antigua that she was the first
+to announce unbounded freedom to her slave population. With
+respect to the barbarous executions, they would not be tolerated
+in Antigua at the present day, even had she continued to be a
+slave-dealing colony; and they can only in justice be referred to
+a state of society when the practice of torture had hardly fallen
+into desuetude in the civil courts of Europe, when the
+Inquisition was in full glory, when, only a few years before, the
+politest capital in the world had looked unmoved on
+
+   "Luke's iron crown, and Damien's bed of steel,"
+
+and criminals continued to be strung up by dozens in England (and
+for many long years after) for offences which, in the present
+advanced state of society, no civilized state would visit with
+the punishment of death. What wonder, then, that at such a
+period, and under such alarming circumstances, the Antiguans
+should have shewn themselves cruel and barbarous?
+
+Before I conclude, I must not omit to tender my acknowledgments
+to the numerous friends who have kindly afforded me assistance in
+the course of my work, among whom let me make grateful mention of
+Edward S. Byam, Esq., the Rev. and Hon. Burgh Byam, Col. Byam,
+Dr. Furgusson, Nathaniel Humphreys, Esq., Deputy Colonial
+Secretary in Antigua, (to which latter gentleman I was indebted
+for access to the Records of the island,) to John Furlong, Esq.,
+(who obliged me with the will of Governor Parke,) Registrar of
+Antigua, to ------ Edmead, Esq., to Captain George B. Mathew, of
+the Guards, the Rev. D. F. Warner, and others.
+
+In conclusion, may the Great Giver of all good pour down His
+choicest blessings upon this beautiful and favoured little
+island; may her legislators be ably endowed in all true
+principles of jurisprudence; may her planters be blest with
+kindly showers, so that their golden canes may raise their "tall
+plumes" in luxuriance; may her merchants, the prop of every
+civilized state, be prosperous--her peasantry happy and good, as
+they are _free_; and, finally, may her ministers (of every
+denomination) be long spared to watch over and pray for her
+teeming inhabitants, that one choral song of praise may resound
+from every quarter and from every tongue.
+
+                                                     The Author.
+
+
+
+
+                            CONTENTS
+                               OF
+                       THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER I.
+
+  General Description of the Island--Appearance--Soil--
+  Productions--Climate--Early history--Discovery by Columbus--
+  Attempted settlement by Spaniards--Grant to Earl of Carlisle--
+  Settlement by d'Esnambuc--Williams--Governor Warner--Account of
+  Sir Thomas Warner, founder of the family
+
+                          CHAPTER II.
+
+  History of the island continued--Sir Henry Hunks--Descent of
+  the Caribs--Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook--Arrival of the Ship
+  Nonsuch--Sir Thomas Modiford--Earl of Warwick, Captain-General
+  --Captain Edward Warner--Colonel Rich--Colonel Lake--Mr.
+  Everard--Sir George Ayscue--Colonel Christopher Reynall--
+  Invasion by the Caribs--Dissensions among the inhabitants--Copy
+  of Colonel Reynall's letter to Cromwell--Attack upon St.
+  Domingo and Jamaica--Major-General Poyntz--Grant of Antigua to
+  Lord F. Willoughby
+
+                          CHAPTER III.
+
+  Rupture between France and England--War in the West Indies--
+  Loss of Lord Francis Willoughby--Colonel Carden--Capture of
+  Antigua by the French forces under M. de la Barre--Colonel
+  Fitche--Restoration of Antigua by the Treaty of Breda--Death of
+  Colonel Carden--Biographical notices
+
+                          CHAPTER IV.
+
+  Governors: Lord William Willoughby, Henry Willoughby--Arrival
+  of Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the progenitor of
+  the family of that name--Biographical remarks--Partition of the
+  Caribbee Islands--Sir William Stapleton--General Council and
+  Assembly--Colonel Philip Warner--Expedition against the Caribs
+  --Death of Indian Warner--Arrest and trial of Colonel P. Warner
+  --Acquittal--Dampier's account of this affair--Captain
+  Southey's History of the Indian Warner
+
+                           CHAPTER V.
+
+  Governor Col. R. Williams--Biographical remarks--Towns of trade
+  appointed--Antigua divided into parishes--Sir Nathaniel Johnson
+  appointed captain-general and governor-in-chief--Colonel
+  Codrington--Remarks upon this family--Invasion of Antigua by a
+  French privateer--Attack upon Guadeloupe by the English--
+  Expedition to St. Christopher's--Gallant conduct of Colonel
+  Williams and Colonel Willoughby Byam--Sir Francis Wheeler's
+  expedition--Wilmot and Lillingston's expedition--Death of the
+  captain-general, General Codrington--Colonel John Yeamans,
+  lieutenant-governor--Arrival of Admiral Benbow
+
+                          CHAPTER VI.
+
+  Governor Colonel Christopher Codrington--Establishment of the
+  first market--Accession of Queen Anne--Arrival of Admiral
+  Benbow--Attack upon the island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction
+  with the Antiguan troops--Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam--
+  Arrival of Captain Hovenden Walker--Second attack upon
+  Guadaloupe--Colonel Codrington quits the government--His death
+  --Sir William Mathew--Hon. John Johnson
+
+                          CHAPTER VII.
+
+  Governor Colonel Daniel Parke--His birth-place and parentage--
+  His actions at the battle of Holchet and Blenheim--His arrival
+  at Antigua--Dissensions with the Antiguans--Complaints against
+  him sent to England--Results of the applications at the court
+  of Queen Anne--Tyrannical behaviour of Colonel Parke--Events of
+  the 7th December, 1710--Death of Colonel Parke
+
+                         CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  Governor Walter Hamilton--Walter Douglas's Disturbances--
+  Complaints against him sent to England--Queen Anne recalls him,
+  and reappoints Walter Hamilton--Lord Viscount Lowther--John
+  Hart--Lord Londonderry--Lord Forbes--Colonel William Crosbie
+
+                          CHAPTER IX.
+
+  Governor William Mathew--Insurrection of the Negroes--A Legend
+  of the Ravine--Punishment of the Conspirators
+
+                           CHAPTER X.
+
+  Governor William Mathew--Sir George Thomas, Bart.--James
+  Verchild--Honourable William Woodley--Sir Ralph Payne--Hon.
+  Craister Greathead--General Burt--The circumstances of his
+  death--Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart.
+
+                          CHAPTER XI.
+
+  Governors: William Woodley--John Stanley--Major-General Charles
+  Leigh--Archibald Esdail--John S. Thomas--Robert Thomson
+
+                          CHAPTER XII.
+
+  Governors: The Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington--William
+  Woodley--James Tyson--John Julius--Hugh Elliot--Sir James Leith
+  --Henry Rawlins--S. Rawlins--Major-General Ramsay
+
+                         CHAPTER XIII.
+
+  Governors: Sir Benjamin D'Urban--Sir Patrick Ross--Sir Evan
+  Murray McGregor--Mr. Light--Sir W. G. MacBean Colebrooke--Major
+  McPhail--Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy
+
+                          CHAPTER XIV.
+
+  My first voyage to Antigua--Visit upon deck--The booby's
+  welcome--Nearer approach--Harbour of St. John's--The Black
+  Pilot--North Sandy Island--Wreck of the mail-boat--Dangerous
+  navigation--Long Island--South Sandy Island--Panoramic views
+  from the vessel's deck--Light winds--Disappointment made
+  pleasing--Anchorage for the night
+
+                          CHAPTER XV.
+
+  The extent of Antigua--Opinion of some planters--Want of
+  agricultural labourers--Emigration not always profitable to the
+  negroes--"Seizar's" letter upon the subject--Return of
+  emigrants--Soil of Antigua--Geological matters--Petrifactions--
+  Climate of Antigua--"Yellow fever"--Beautiful evenings--the
+  appearance of the heavens--Evening visitants
+
+                          CHAPTER XVI.
+
+  Scenery of Antigua--Pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring"--The
+  Goddess Mnemosyne--Fig-Tree Hill--The "Bower of Bliss"--"Old
+  Road"--The Strand--The cross sexton--The parochial school--Old
+  Road Church--Tomb of Col. Williams--Moravian settlement--Salt
+  ponds--Copses--"Crab Hill"--Sandy Valley--The Valley Church--
+  The rising moon--Arrival in town--Night, and night dreams
+
+                         CHAPTER XVII.
+
+  The seasons at Antigua--Heavy rains--Long droughts--The
+  water-merchant--A fortunate shower--Drought in 1837--Desolate
+  appearance of the country--Famishing cattle--Definition of
+  "_fine rains_"--Anecdote--Heavy shower--Joy--Earthquakes--1835
+  --Meteors--Dressing for the ball--The alarm--The ball-room--
+  Hurricanes--Devastations
+
+                         CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+  Description of the town of St. John's, the capital of Antigua--
+  Situation--Arrangement of the streets--Hucksters--Houses--
+  Springs--Small shops--Stores of the retail dealers--Grog-shops
+  --Merchants' stores and lumber yards--Definition of lumber--
+  Auction sales--Scotch Row and Scotchmen--Incongruous display of
+  goods--Fire in 1797--Ruins--Fire in 1841--Its devastations
+
+                          CHAPTER XIX.
+
+  Description of the church of St John's--Period of its erection
+  --Present site--Panoramic views--Form of structure--Length and
+  breadth--Interior--Decorations--Monuments--Organ--Tower--Bells
+  --Clock--Churchyard--Tombs and sepulchral inscriptions--An
+  acrostic--"Adam and Eve!"
+
+                          CHAPTER XX.
+
+  Court-house--Bazaar--Arsenal--Police-office--Government-house--
+  Barracks--House of correction--Gaol--Methodist chapel--
+  Methodism, its rise and progress in Antigua--Moravian chapel--
+  Rise and progress of the Society of United Brethren--Scotch
+  kirk
+
+                          CHAPTER XXI.
+
+  Morning--Institutions--Daily Meal Society--Its rise and
+  progress--Lazaretto--Destitute Females' Friend Society--Its
+  origin and purpose--Friendly Societies--Bible Society--
+  Missionary associations--Temperance Society--Juvenile
+  Association--Ladies' Clothing Society &c.--Banks--Library
+  Society
+
+                         CHAPTER XXII.
+
+  Early rising and "Jamie Thomson"--Journey to English Harbour--
+  Windmills and Don Quixote--Groups of negroes and their
+  equipages--All Saints' chapel of ease--The "Hamlet"--Village of
+  Liberta--Grace Hill--Patterson's and Prince William--English
+  Harbour market--Streets and dwellings--Commissariat's store and
+  government tank--Dockyard--The superintendent--Stores and
+  storehouses--Engineer's workshop--Blacksmith's shop and blowing
+  machine--Limes and roses--Recollections of England--Lieutenant
+  Peterson and Lord Camelford--His lordship's pranks--The
+  ordnance--Clarence House and Dows Hill--The Ridge and "Shirley
+  heights"--Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley--Bats Cave--The
+  Savannah and its tombs--Indian Creek--Return to town
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+  Zulmiera, the Half-Carib girl, a Legend of the Savannah
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+  Continuation of the Legend
+
+                          CHAPTER XXV.
+
+  Conclusion of the Legend
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+  Towns: Falmouth--Church and churchyard--Mangroves and acacias--
+  Black's Point--Bridgetown--Willoughby Bay--Its site and
+  decoration--The superintendent of the Wesleyan schools--
+  School-room--Methodist chapel--The Memoras--St Philip's church
+  --Beautiful views--Parham--Its derivation and site--St Peter's
+  church--Churchyard--The new church--Methodist chapel and
+  school-room
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+  Forts and fortifications--Temporary ones--The present forts--
+  Fort James--Its situation and approach--Rat Island Battery, its
+  appellation, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff--Goat Hill--Steep
+  ascent--Schools in St. John's
+
+                        CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+  Remarks upon the aboriginal Americans--Suppositions of various
+  authors--Caribs--Arrowawks--Ferocity of the Carib--Complexion--
+  Dress--Ornaments--Dreadful revenge--Wars-Chiefs--Severities
+  practised--Feasts--Remarks upon paganism--Anthropophagi--A
+  traveller's tale--The Carib's opinion of death--Religious
+  tenets--Altars--The burning Carib
+
+                            ERRATA.
+
+[Transcriber's Note: these errata have been incorporated.]
+
+Page 4, line 8 from top, _for_ "D'Escambue," _read_ "D'Esnambuc."
+
+-- 20, line 7 from bottom, _for_ "Parhan," _read_ "Parham."
+
+-- 89, line 3 from top, _for_ "Mathews," _read_ "Mathew."
+
+-- 249, line 13 from top, _for_ "Hernhult," _read_ "Herrnhutt."
+
+-- 266, line 3 from bottom, _for_ "Sheltic," _read_ "Sheltie."
+
+
+
+
+                          SUBSCRIBERS.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Sir Charles A. Fitz Roy, Governor-in-Chief of the
+    Leeward Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Major McPhail, Lieutenant-Governor of Dominica  . . . . . .  4
+  The Lord Bishop of Antigua  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+
+
+
+
+                       Members of Council
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Hon. Mead H. Daniel, President  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Rowland E. Williams  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Hon. William Byam, (Cedar Hill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Hon. Bertie E. Jarvis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Hon. G. W. Ottley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. R. W. Nanton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Owen Pell  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. George S. Martin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Paul Horsford  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+
+
+
+             Members of the House of Assembly, &c.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Hon. Thomas Sanderson, Speaker  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. William Lee  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Thomas F. Nibbs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. John Athill  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  James Scotland, Jun.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. John Gray  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Francis Byam Ottley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Furgusson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  William Thibou  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  R. B. Eldredge  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Osborn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James W. Sheriff  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Samuel Auchinleck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jos. L. Bindon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. H. Allan, (Whitehaven) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  George Athill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Athill  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Gedney C. Bispham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Godschall Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  William Gordon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Horace Turner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William H. Thompson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Boyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. E. Sanderson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Murray  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Hosier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. H. Grant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  N. J. Hill  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. H. More  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Erskine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William S. Odlum  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Humphreys  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward Wesston  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Thibou  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  R. K. Nanton  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Madgwick  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Paul Horsford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Prizgar  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Armstrong  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. Burke Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James E. Geddes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George Ewart  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John McDonald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Gordon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  George Cranstoun  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  3
+  J. Barrett  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. T. Gore  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  H. Perrott, 59th Regiment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Gilbert Auchinleck  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  A. Duncan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William L. Nibbs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  M. Capdestaing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James F. Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Samuel L. Bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  T. H. Morrison  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Haining  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Simpson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Barry Nibbs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  N. Humphreyes, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Robertson, Sen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Kelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Benjamin Scotland  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Joseph Black  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George Black  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William C. Brookes  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  A. McDowal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  R. W. Baxter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John F. Smyth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Ed. F. Grant  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. H. G. Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Scotland, Jun.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Patrick Cadell  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  John Gow  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Richard Higginbotham  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas C. Walter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John W. Scotland  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Richard Wilson, (Mico School) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. J. Anderson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Thomas Gordon, (English Harbour)  . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Boison  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Francis Critchton, (Rose's Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles McGuire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jeremiah R. Nibbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John B. Lowry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert T. Pooler  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Freeland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Captain Kennedy, Brig, "British Queen." . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. C. Milward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry T. Pigot, (Villa Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. W. More  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jos. Lavicount  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Simpson, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. J. B. Wilkinson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Walker, P. M. G.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Carmault  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  P. P. Walter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  David Armour  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Robertson, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas H. Hyndman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Boyd  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Ashford  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas W. Scholar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Grant, (Freeman's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Bradfoot Taber  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Doyle  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Thomas Nicholson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward Liscombe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James C. Wesston, M.D.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Kennedy  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Lindsay, A. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. Cranstoun  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Oswald Wood, M.D. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  G. J. Watkins, (Lavington's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. P. Maynard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Captain W. C. Johnson, Brig "Ludlow"  . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. Malone, (English Harbour)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. Scarville  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. P. Guilmett  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. Isaacs, (English Harbour)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. Hart, Superintendent of Naval Yard . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  ------ Nugent, 59th Regiment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  ------ Peebles, ditto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. James Curtin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Clarke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Alonzo Hurst  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Trew, Collector H. M. C.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  T. A. Benjamin, D. O. S. K. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George S. Bladen  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Ledger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. G. Dumeresque, H. M. C.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  F. H. Price, H. M. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hinton Simpson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. J. Ronan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jos. Sherrington  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Winter, Chief of Police  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  G. B. Cadelle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. A. Ross Willock  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. R. Haynes, (Folly Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Goodwin, (Mount Lucy Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Bryan, (Elliot's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jno. M. Donovan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Frederick Kysh  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Richard Abbot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Howell  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  R. S. White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. Fulton Author  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Henry French  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Captain Fred. Simpson, "Miranda" (ship) . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Stewart, (Hermitage Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Samuel M. Richard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Lieutenant Bulman, H. M. S. "Fair Rosamond" . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. F. Fox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Storrock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Connor, (English Harbour) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jno. Rodney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Gregory  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Elliot  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Brodie G. McNish  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Andrew Brown  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mat. Cockburn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. T. C. Walter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Jno. Furlong  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  James W. Boyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Wm. Fairclough  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+
+
+
+                       St. Christopher's.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Horatio Adlum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Joseph McLachlane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Private Subscription Rooms  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. Hay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Padmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Messrs. Dinzey and Peterson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. McMahon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. William Frazer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Woodcock  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. A. Tapshire  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  N. J. Lynch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Nimmo  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. R. Claxton, Attorney-General . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. R. B. Cleghorn, President of Nevis . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  H. Harding, (Nevis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Thensteat, (Dominica) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Fortunatus Larrica, (Madeira) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  T. L. Foster  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  F. Burk, (Monserrat)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+
+
+
+                            England.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager . . . . . . .
+  Sir T. Fowel Buxton, Bart., Northrepps, Norfolk . . . . . .  4
+  Lord James O'Bryen, 15, North Crescent, Bath  . . . . . .
+  Sir George Thomas, Weymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+  Captain G. B. Mathew, Carlton Club  . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Lieutenant Parsons, R.N., Southampton . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Rev. William Palmer, Rector, Eynesbury, Hunts . . . . . . .  1
+  Joseph Liggins, Esq., Mincing-lane, London  . . . . . . . .  2
+  Rev. Daniel F. Warner, Rector, Hoo, Rochester . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Byam, Byam House, Brighton . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward S. Byam, Esq., Cheltenham  . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. and Rev. Richard Burgh Byam, Vicar of
+    Kew and Petersham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Engleharte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. John Walter, Bridge-street, Blackfriars  . . . . . . .  1
+  L. C. Lecesne, Esq., Fenchurch-buildings  . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Lewis F. Bellot, Esq., Barge-yard Chambers, Bucklersbury  .  1
+  James McKie, Esq., Bucklersbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward Byam Wyke, Esq., Ealing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. Sam. Ashton Warner, Rector of St. George's, Antigua  .  1
+  Shirley Warner, Esq., Stipendiary Magistrate, Montserrat  .  1
+  John Dawson, Esq., Whitehaven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+                   ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,
+                              ETC.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER I.
+
+
+
+  General Description of the Island--Appearance--Soil--
+  Productions--Climate--Early history--Discovery by Columbus--
+  Attempted settlement by Spaniards--Grant to Earl of Carlisle--
+  Settlement by d'Esnambuc--Williams--Governor Warner--Account of
+  Sir Thomas Warner, founder of the family.
+
+The Island of Antigua, one of the great Antilles, is situated in
+the Caribbean Sea, about twenty-five miles to the north-east of
+Montserrat, and forty miles north of Guadaloupe, in latitude
+seventeen degrees north, and longitude sixty-two degrees, or
+thereabouts, the measurement in these respects not being more
+exact than those of its length and breadth, which are variously
+stated at 21, 20, and 18 miles for its length, and 21, 20, and
+17, for its breadth. The lower estimate is, however, most
+probably correct. Its circumference, again, is variously stated
+at from 50 to 80 miles, and its total area from 59,838 acres, to
+108 square miles, or nearly 70,000 acres. The population in 1837,
+consisted of 2000 whites and coloured people, and 33,000 blacks.
+All the slaves in the island were enfranchised in 1834.
+
+The island is of an oval shape. On the first approach the coast
+appears rough and barren, but as the voyager draws nearer, hills
+and valleys open on his view, and the shore puts on an appearance
+of luxuriant vegetation. The country possesses little of a
+mountainous character, the highest elevation reaching only to the
+height of 1210 feet above the level of the sea. The soil varies
+according to the situation; that of the valleys and low lands
+consisting of a rich, black mould, on a substratum of clay; and
+unless in seasons of excessive drought, to which this island is
+peculiarly subject, remarkably productive. The soil of the high
+lands, on the other hand, is a stiff, reddish clay, on a
+substratum of marl, and is much less productive, abounding, as it
+does, with a species of grass extremely difficult to extirpate;
+and the increase of which has even caused some lands, formerly
+cultivated, to be abandoned. With the exception of such tracts,
+and of a small part totally unimprovable, the whole island may be
+said to be under cultivation. The staple production is sugar; a
+little cotton is cultivated; but all other articles of commerce,
+with the exception of sugar, are neglected. The quantities of
+ground provisions, as yams, eddoes, sweet potatoes, &c., grown in
+favourable seasons, is very considerable.
+
+The most remarkable circumstance connected with Antigua is the
+want of fresh-water springs, there being but two or three of
+them, wholly inadequate to the wants of the population. This want
+is supplied by tanks, in which the rain water is preserved, and
+found to be particularly wholesome and agreeable, being light and
+pleasing to the palate.
+
+The climate is remarkable for want of moisture, although the
+average fall of rain is forty-five inches. It is considered one
+of the most healthy in the West Indies.
+
+The history of Antigua may be said to commence with its discovery
+by Columbus, for although it was at that period, and
+subsequently, frequented by the Caribs, they appear not to have
+made it a place of permanent residence; the want of water, which
+caused European settlers so long to neglect the island, deterring
+them also from establishing themselves upon it. For an account of
+the Caribs, and of their probable origin, the reader is referred
+to the chapters devoted to that interesting subject; and we shall
+now proceed to the history of the settlement of the island and of
+its internal administration down to the present time, reserving
+for future chapters those sketches of the island, and its
+inhabitants, which are the result of personal experience.
+
+It was not until his second voyage, in the year 1493, that
+Columbus discovered Antigua. He landed with a party, but finding,
+on examination, that it was peopled only by a few Caribs, who
+possessed nothing that was serviceable to the Spaniards, and who
+were, probably, only casual visitants, and that the island was
+destitute of fresh water, he contented himself with giving it a
+name, Antigua, from the church of St. Mary of Antigua, at
+Seville, and abandoned it. There is a tradition that the name
+given to the island by the natives was "Xaymaca," signifying the
+"land of springs;" but whether this "lucus a non lucendo" was a
+specimen of Caribbean wit, or, more probably, arose from a
+mistake on the part of the European visitants, is uncertain.
+
+Antigua remained neglected by all the various European
+adventurers, who hastened in crowds to other more favoured spots,
+until the year 1520, when a small party of Spaniards, under the
+Licentiate Don Antonio Serrano, who had received letters-patent
+from the King of Spain to colonize Antigua, Montserrat, Barbadu,
+Deseada, Dominica, and Martinique, landed, and driving off the
+few Caribs they found there, attempted to establish themselves;
+but after a short stay they abandoned it, and the island remained
+without a European claimant until the year 1627, when the Earl of
+Carlisle obtained a grant of Barbados, Antigua, and the rest of
+the Leeward Islands, from Charles I. This grant was opposed by
+the Earl of Marlborough, on the plea of a prior grant from James
+I., which was, however, eventually compromised, and the Earl of
+Carlisle was recognised as the sole proprietor. He, however,
+contented himself with settling Barbados; and although Antigua
+was colonized in his lifetime, yet neither he nor his son, who
+died without issue in 1660, and in whom the family honours became
+extinct, appear to have ever interested themselves in Antigua, or
+to have exercised any rights of ownership or property. In fact,
+the first permanent occupation of the island appears to have been
+a mere private speculation, and to have excited little notice or
+inquiry, since it is still a question who was the first actual
+settler.
+
+In the year 1629, Mons. d'Esnambuc, the captain of a French
+privateer, made an attempt at a settlement, but the want of water
+drove him away after a very short stay; so short, indeed, that
+although a party of English settlers seem to have been upon the
+island, he did not remain long enough to discover them. The
+assertion, however, that English colonists were then on the
+island, rests solely on a tradition that William Herbert, Earl of
+Pembroke, who interested himself greatly in the colonization of
+the West Indies, sent out his friend and countryman, Mr.
+Williams, (the father of Colonel Rowland Williams, renowned in
+Antiguan story, as having been the first white child born on the
+island,) to attempt a settlement in Antigua. As Lord Pembroke
+died in April 1630, it does not appear probable that Mr.
+Williams' settlement was later than 1629. If he were not the
+first, there is no doubt he was one of the first settlers, and an
+estate at Old Road, still in possession of his descendant, is
+pointed out as the spot he made choice of for his residence,
+which, as it is in the neighbourhood of the best spring in the
+island, now known as "Tom Moore's Spring," is extremely likely to
+have been the case. A fact that strengthens the probability of
+Mr. Williams being the first settler is, that Mr. Warner, who
+unquestionably conducted a party to Antigua from St. Kitts, in
+1632, fixed his residence near the same spot, which it is natural
+he should do, for the sake of companionship, but built a cistern,
+whose ruins are still to be seen in the savannah, which he need
+not have done, had not the scanty spring been already
+appropriated.
+
+In the year 1632, General Sir Thomas Warner, at that time, by the
+sanction of the Earl of Carlisle, the legal proprietor, and,
+under warrant from the king, Governor of St. Christopher, Nevis,
+Barbados, and Montserrat, sent his son Edward, a captain in the
+army, with a sufficient party, to colonize Antigua, which design
+he carried into effect, and during the remainder of his life
+continued to act as governor, although we have discovered no
+evidence of his having ever possessed, either as principal or
+deputy, any warrant for assuming the title, or executing the
+functions of governor, except so far as his father, as agent for
+the Earl of Carlisle, the lord proprietor of the island, might be
+considered as vested with authority; for in his commission from
+the crown, no mention is made of Antigua.
+
+The name of Warner being thus distinguished in the annals of
+Antigua, we may be excused for making a digression upon the
+history of its founder, more especially as it affords a good
+illustration of the process of colonization in our West Indian
+and American possessions.
+
+General Sir Thomas Warner was a scion of an ancient and
+distinguished English family; but from being a younger son, he
+was obliged to use personal efforts, in order to effect an
+honourable passage through life. Having entered into the army at
+an early age, and attained the rank of captain, he accompanied
+Roger North, brother of Lord North, in his expedition to Guiana,
+a country which was then looked upon as a perfect _Eldorado_.
+Here he became acquainted with a Captain Painton, a great
+navigator of those times, and one who had well studied the then
+all-engrossing subject of colonization.
+
+This gentleman suggested to Captain Warner how much more facility
+would attend a settlement in one of the smaller islands, than in
+a country so extensive as Guiana; and from his own personal
+experience, he thought St. Christopher's (at that time unoccupied
+by any European power) would be an island particularly adapted
+for the exercise of a daring spirit, in the way of planting a
+settlement.
+
+These suggestions of his friend appear to have made due
+impression upon the mind of Mr. Warner; for in 1620, after the
+death of Captain Painton, he resolved to return to England, and
+endeavour to procure the aid of some kindred spirit, in order to
+put his designs into execution. Having so far succeeded in his
+plans as to procure all necessary arrangements for establishing a
+colony, Mr. Warner again left England, accompanied by his wife
+and son, Edward, (who was a captain in the army at the early age
+of thirteen, and who was afterwards appointed first governor of
+Antigua,) and a small party of followers,[1] and embarked on
+board a vessel bound for Virginia, whence himself and party
+proceeded to St. Christopher's, where they arrived 28th January,
+1623. Mr. Warner, as head of the settlers, commenced immediately
+the task of cultivation, in which he so far progressed as to
+raise a crop of tobacco, which was unfortunately destroyed in the
+severe hurricane of the 19th of the following September.
+
+During this period, the movements of the English were diligently
+observed by the Caribs, who, instigated by three Frenchmen,
+(supposed to have been cast upon the island by a former storm,)
+at length made an outbreak upon the English, and retarded in some
+measure their work of cultivation.
+
+By the end of the following February, Mr. Warner had another crop
+of tobacco ready for exportation; and the ship Hopewell
+(commanded by Captain Jefferson) arriving on the 4th March, 1624,
+from London, bringing fresh supplies for the infant colony, a few
+emigrants, and goods with which to trade with the Caribs, Mr.
+Warner resolved to return in her to England, in order to obtain
+more powerful assistance. He accordingly embarked himself and his
+first-gathered crop on board the "Hopewell," and once more sought
+the shores of England, to receive the congratulations of his
+friends, and search for a patron who would enable him to carry
+out further his plans of colonization.
+
+Between that period and 1625, Mr. Warner was employed in voyaging
+backwards and forwards from St. Christopher's and England,
+leaving the cares of the government to his son, Edward Warner,
+(of whom Du Tertre speaks very handsomely,) until, having gained
+a friend and patron in the Earl of Carlisle, he was introduced at
+the court of the then reigning sovereign, Charles I. This monarch
+was so pleased with Mr. Warner's indefatigable and patriotic
+spirit, that he was graciously pleased to grant him a commission,
+(signed 13th Sept. 1625,) constituting him governor over the
+"foure islands of St. Christopher's, Nevis, Barbados, and
+Mountserrate,"[2] and on the 21st September, 1629, knighted him
+at Hampton Court Palace.[3]
+
+Some of Sir Thomas Warner's descendants have filled the highest
+situations in Antigua, administering the government at times. Nor
+is the family extinct, for many there are who can trace their
+descent in a direct line from this great founder of four
+flourishing colonies. One of these was in 1838 "gathered to his
+fathers;" he was esteemed as an able legislator, and fulfilled
+his duties as president of the council, brigadier-general of the
+militia, and occasionally lieutenant-governor, with integrity. As
+this family ranks among the first aristocrats of the island, a
+more particular account of their lineal descent may not be deemed
+superfluous, and will be found in the Appendix, No. 2.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[1] The names of these adventurous few were as follows:--William
+Tasted, John Rhodes, Robert Bims, Mr. Benifield, Sergeant Jones,
+Mr. Ware, William Ryle, Rowland Grasscocke, Mr. Bond, Mr.
+Langley, Mr. Weaver, Sergeant Aplon, one sailor, and a cook.
+
+[2] Vide copy of the first commission granted, No. 1, Appendix.
+
+[3] Sir Thomas Warner died at St Christopher's in 1648. His tomb
+is still to be met with in the parish church for the township of
+Old Road, (a place which derives its name from the involuntary
+exclamation of Columbus upon his second visit to St.
+Christopher's, "Ah! we are at the _old road_ again,") the
+inscription upon which is as follows:--
+
+             An Epitaph vpon Th-------------------
+                Noble & Mvch Lamented Genrl Sir
+                   Tho. Warner, Kt Lievtenant
+                     General of ye Carribee
+                     Ielands & Goverr of ye
+                    Ieland of St Christopher
+                       Who Departed This
+                        Life the 10th of
+                          March 1648.
+
+    First Read then weepe when thou art hereby taught,
+    That Warner lyes interr'd here, one that bought,
+    With losse of Noble bloud Illustrious Name,
+    Of A Comander Greate in Acts of Fame.
+    Trayn'd from his youth in Armes, his courage bold,
+    Attempted braue Exploites, and vncontrold
+    By fortunes fiercest Frownes, hee still gaue forth
+    Large Narratiues of Military worth.
+    ----ritten with his sword's poynt, but what is man
+    -------the midst of his glory, and who can
+    ----------this Life A moment, since that hee
+    -------------by Sea and Land, so longe kept free
+    -----------al, Mortal Strokes at length did yeeld
+    ------------ace) to conquering Death the field,
+    fini Coronat.
+
+The black lines shew where the marble is broken, or the letters
+from some other cause are quite obliterated.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER II.
+
+
+
+  History of the island continued--Sir Henry Hunks--Descent of
+  the Caribs--Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook--Arrival of the Ship
+  Nonsuch--Sir Thomas Modiford--Earl of Warwick, Captain-General
+  --Captain Edward Warner--Colonel Rich--Colonel Lake--Mr.
+  Everard--Sir George Ayscue--Colonel Christopher Reynall--
+  Invasion by the Caribs--Dissensions among the inhabitants--Copy
+  of Colonel Reynall's letter to Cromwell--Attack upon St.
+  Domingo and Jamaica--Major-General Poyntz--Grant of Antigua to
+  Lord F. Willoughby.
+
+We will now return to the history of Antigua, which we shall
+hereafter pursue, as closely as possible, in chronological order.
+
+In 1639, Sir Henry Hunks paid Antigua a visit. This gentleman
+(who was nephew to Lord Conway, Secretary of State) was the first
+governor of Barbados with a regular commission; but upon his
+arrival at that colony, Henry Hawley, the then acting
+commander-in-chief, would not resign the government, and raised
+so formidable a party, that Sir Henry Hunks quietly retired to
+Antigua, where he remained from June to December; at which latter
+period, he was installed in his government, according to the
+instructions which he received from England.
+
+In 1640, the English settlers were disturbed in their possessions
+at Antigua by the Caribs, who made a descent upon the island,
+pillaging it, and destroying everything that fell in their way.
+After many lives being lost on both sides, the English were
+enabled to repel their invaders; who, however, succeeded in
+carrying away the governor's wife and her two children. It is
+maintained by some authors, that the after fate of this
+unfortunate woman was not known; but that everything the worst
+might be imagined from the character of the Caribs, goaded on as
+they were by the loss of their country.
+
+There is, however, a tradition still extant in Antigua, which
+most probably relates to this catastrophe. In the first years of
+this island becoming an English colony, it was, of course, but
+thinly peopled by Europeans, and consequently there was but
+little force to repel any invasion. Parties of Caribs from the
+different islands, particularly Dominica, used frequently to land
+upon it, and distress the inhabitants. In these invasions, no
+mercy was shewn, no quarter given, to the unhappy people who fell
+in their power, and after a combat, numerous were the bodies left
+upon the field of battle. Armed with their massive clubs and
+sharp spears, at the end of which was inserted a fish-bone,
+dipped in the poisonous juice of the lianas or the manchineel,
+the Caribs were no mean foes. No sooner had they set fire to a
+cluster of houses, or destroyed a field of tobacco, the chief
+production of the island in those days, than they immediately
+flew to their canoes, which were so fast in sailing, that before
+the alarm had subsided in one part, they were burning and
+plundering in another.[4] At that period, the house where the
+governor resided was situated near Falmouth Bay; and in the
+village itself the principal of the English settlers lived.
+Government House, from its situation, was particularly open to
+the attacks of the Caribs; and here the first part of the scene
+took place, which gave rise to
+
+
+
+
+               The Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook.[5]
+
+
+
+It was night. The wind, which had been blowing rather hard during
+the day, as evening drew in, gradually sank, until about
+midnight, the time when the legend opens, it was a dead calm.
+Nothing was to be heard but the dull moaning of the waves, as
+they broke heavily upon the beach, or, now and then, the distant
+bark of a dog from the houses of the settlers, which, with the
+natural fidelity of that animal, had followed his master to these
+sunny islands, when he came in search of that fortune which his
+native land denied him.
+
+The family of the governor consisted of himself, his young and
+beautiful wife, two lovely children, and his numerous domestics.
+At an early period of this evening, his lady, with the warm
+solicitude of a mother's love, had seen her infants safely
+deposited in their cot; and with a mother's prayer for their
+happiness upon her lips, watched beside them until the deepening
+rose upon their cheeks, and their measured breathings, shewed
+that they slept the quiet sleep of childhood.
+
+Hours rolled on, and all beneath that roof sought their
+resting-place--all but the governor's wife were quickly in the
+arms of sleep. As if some "spirit of the night" had whispered a
+hint of the sufferings she was fated to endure, an irresistible
+feeling of melancholy hung over her. Sleep she could not; and to
+allay the fever of her brow, she arose from her couch, and
+throwing her robe around her, she opened the lattice. The scene
+she looked upon was wild but beautiful. Dark masses of clouds
+still hung about the heavens, and strove to hide the beams of the
+rising moon; but she, "fair Cynthia," kept on her way in peerless
+majesty, and shed on every object her mellowed light. The simple
+houses of the English were visible amid the trees; above which
+the stately cocoa-nut reared its head, its long pendant branches
+perfectly motionless. On one side, the bay of Falmouth lay
+stretched before the eye of the gazer, every snow-crested wave of
+which could be counted; and on the other were the dark mountains,
+except in the opening of the bay, where nothing was to be seen
+but an extent of waters.
+
+Long did that beautiful lady gaze upon this scene: many thoughts
+did its loveliness conjure up--thoughts of her native land, its
+verdant hills and spangled dells, and all its towering cities.
+Present objects were fast fading away, when a splash of the
+waters was heard, and as her eye sought the ocean, a
+swift-gliding canoe came in sight. At this moment, the moon,
+which had been lately obscured, shone out with redoubled
+brightness, and she could plainly discover that the canoe
+contained about twenty armed men, and was quickly followed by
+another, with even more than that number. Who could these
+strangers be? was the first thought; and what their business at
+such an hour? Were they Caribs? And one more glance at their wild
+forms, and the dreadful truth rushed across her mind, that they
+were coming to storm the house. Soon she awoke her husband, and
+told him her fears; the domestics were aroused and armed, and the
+house put into a posture of defence.
+
+The canoes were now no longer to be seen; and even the lady was
+inclined to ask, Could it be one of those wild vagaries of the
+imagination? when suddenly the war-cry was heard, and, with
+dreadful imprecations, a party of Caribs bounded into sight.
+Terrible was the fight that succeeded, and many a corse strewed
+the ground. At length the Caribs were obliged to retreat; but,
+alas! they carried with them all that was dear to the governor--
+his wife and children. The Caribs, hotly pursued, made for the
+place where they had directed their canoes to wait, under the
+charge of some of their friends, dragging the unhappy lady and
+her two babies with them. Frightened by the wild looks of the
+Indians, and suddenly awakened from its slumbers, one of the
+little innocents commenced crying bitterly, which its distressed
+mother, at the command of her conquerors, vainly endeavoured to
+still. After walking, or rather running, for some distance, they
+had almost reached the sea-side, when one of the Caribs, more
+ferocious than the rest, and thinking that the cries of the child
+would perhaps lead their pursuers to the spot, caught the baby by
+the feet, and swinging it around his head, at one blow dashed out
+its brains upon a neighbouring rock.[6] This deed committed in
+sight of its parent, the lady and her remaining child were rudely
+hurried on, until, the beach gained, they were thrown into one of
+the canoes; and the whole party embarking, they pushed out into
+the ocean.
+
+The governor, finding they had escaped, proceeded on board an
+armed vessel, and immediately sailed in pursuit of the enemy. The
+morning that succeeded that disastrous night was one of West
+Indian beauty; not a vapour was abroad; the sky was one deep,
+lovely blue, and the sea looked like fluid light. Seated upon the
+high poop, anxiously did the governor scan the waters in hopes of
+seeing the canoes; but nothing met his eye--not even a speck
+appeared to raise his hopes. Hour after hour passed away, but no
+sight of the fugitives; night drew on, and the breeze died away;
+the sails flapping heavily against the mast bespoke another calm.
+How tedious seemed those hours of darkness--how fervently was the
+morning wished for; but just before dawn the wind sprung up, and
+soon after the mountains of Dominica appeared in sight. Slowly
+but surely the vessel glided on, every eye watching for some
+trace of the lost ones, when, in the opening of a little bay, two
+empty canoes were discovered. Could these be the same they were
+in quest of? was the anxious query; and if so, where could their
+owners be? Orders were given to let go the anchor, and prepare
+the boats; and in a short time the governor and his party, all
+well armed, were landed upon the beach.
+
+A beaten path led up to the mountains, and it was determined to
+pursue it in hopes of it leading to some dwelling, where they
+might obtain information. As it proceeded, however, it became
+more and more intricate, guava bushes, aloes, and the prickly
+pear, grew thickly together, while different species of parasites
+conspired to render the path more impervious. In some places it
+was almost obstructed by these various bushes, interspersed with
+larger trees, so that the companions of the governor were for
+returning, supposing no one could have passed that way lately.
+But he was determined to proceed a little further; and had just
+stretched out his hand to sever with his sword the overhanging
+boughs of an acacia, when suddenly he made a start, his heart
+beat almost to bursting, and, unable to speak, he pointed to his
+amazed followers a portion of white taffeta hanging to one of its
+sharp thorns. This, he felt assured, must have been torn from the
+robe of his wife; and, consequently, that was the road her
+conquerors must have carried her. Upon further search among the
+rank and tangled grass, in hopes of discovering prints of
+footsteps, marks of blood were observed. These led to further
+inquiries. Could they have murdered her there? But no; had such
+been the case, greater quantities of blood would have marked the
+deed. Perhaps she might have been wounded, and placed in some
+concealment near. Again they proceeded, guided by the drops of
+blood, until, coming to an abrupt turn of the path, about a dozen
+Caribs' huts lay stretched before them, and their fierce inmates
+lolling around the open doors.
+
+In less than a minute all was confusion. Confident that this was
+the party who had stolen his wife, the governor rushed upon them
+furious with passion. Nothing could resist his power; Carib after
+Carib lay stretched by the prowess of his arm; and springing over
+his prostrate foes, the anxious husband entered the principal
+hut, which he had observed was carefully guarded throughout the
+fray. A well-known voice called his name, an infant's cry of joy
+saluted his ear, and, bursting open an inner door, his weeping
+wife was in his arms, and his darling child clinging around his
+knees. It took but little time to quit that spot, and retrace the
+mountain path. The drops of blood he had seen were occasioned by
+his wife's shoe coming off, and the rugged ascent cutting her
+tender feet, upon her journey to the Caribs' huts. The boat was
+quickly gained, and in a few minutes they reached the ship, and,
+unfurling the sails, they sought the shores of Antigua, where
+they arrived in safety.
+
+Hitherto all was well. Happy in again seeing her husband, and
+knowing herself and child were safe, that lady still took
+comfort, although mourning the untimely fate of her other
+darling. But this did not last long. Other thoughts arose in her
+husband's breast--thoughts too horrible to mention.
+
+   "Oh! what dreadful minutes tells he o'er,
+    Who dotes, still doubts; suspects, yet strongly loves."
+
+In vain his poor unhappy wife protested she was pure.
+
+   "Jealousy is a green-eyed monster,
+    That doth mock the food it feeds upon;"
+
+and by its whispers drove him, who was the affectionate friend
+and protector, to be the harsh and implacable tyrant. No longer
+enjoying the society of his wife, he determined to get rid of
+her; and for this purpose built a keep in Ding-a-Ding Nook, and,
+conveying his wife hither, left her to wear away her life in
+hopeless misery.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+This is the legend; and well might that Nook be selected for such
+a place of seclusion, for it is a valley completely shut in by
+the surrounding mountains, and open only to the sea. I have heard
+another version of this story, which says, the governor and his
+lady parted by mutual consent, and that it was her wish to have a
+house built in that spot. Surely, if this was the case, she must
+have had the taste of an anchorite.
+
+Between the period of Mrs. Warner's abduction and the year 1666,
+the Caribs carried away the wives and children of many of the
+respectable settlers. Among them, we find mentioned Mrs. Cardin
+and children, Mrs. Taylor and children, Mrs. Chrew and children,
+Mrs. Lynch and children, Mrs. Lee, wife of Captain Lee, and many
+other females. Mrs. Lee was detained prisoner for three years,
+after the Caribs had murdered her husband, and many other
+Englishmen, the truth of which is attested by the following
+extract from a letter written by J. Daniel, auditor-general to
+the expedition under Pen and Venables, to Oliver Cromwell,
+lord-protector of England, dated 3rd June, 1655:--"Mrs. Lee, wife
+of Captain Lee, was carried away by the Caribs, and kept prisoner
+three years at Dominica, her husband and many English
+slaughtered." This statement immediately dispels the hypothesis
+(which some writers have entertained) of Captain Lee being the
+erector of the keep at Ding-a-Ding Nook; and, consequently, fixes
+more firmly the truth of Mrs. Warner being the heroine of the
+preceding legend.
+
+To return once more to our chronological record. In 1647, the
+ship "Nonsuch," Captain Middleton, owner, arrived at Antigua,
+which gave the name to Nonsuch Harbour, having anchored in that
+port. This was one of three vessels which had been fitted out
+from England by Colonel, afterwards Sir Thomas, Modiford, in
+order to form a plantation in this island. During the passage,
+the "Achilles," the larger vessel of the expedition, of 300 tons
+burden, William Crowder, owner and master, parted company with
+the "Nonsuch," which proceeded to Antigua alone. The "Achilles,"
+after being out at sea for many weeks, put into Barbados in
+distress, being infected with a disease which caused great
+mortality among the men. During Colonel Modiford's stay at
+Barbados, it was represented to him how far more advantageous it
+would be to purchase an estate in that island, already planted,
+and from which immediate emolument might be derived, than to
+proceed to an infant colony, where he would have to undergo all
+the fatigues and privations incident upon establishing a
+plantation. Colonel Modiford, listening to this advice, purchased
+the half of an estate for 7000l., an immense sum at that day, and
+thus constituted himself a Barbados planter, instead of adhering
+to his first resolution, of becoming a settler of Antigua. Sir
+Thomas Modiford afterwards removed to the newly-gained English
+colony of Jamaica, of which island he was appointed governor in
+1663, and where he resigned his breath in 1679. The Earl of
+Warwick had been appointed captain-general of _all the West
+Indies_ in 1643, but he does not appear to have assumed the
+command; for, in 1648, after the demise of Sir Thomas Warner, we
+find Colonel Rich become governor of St. Christopher's, Colonel
+Lake[7] of Nevis, and Colonel Edward Warner of Antigua. How long
+this latter gentleman retained his situation is uncertain; but,
+about the year 1651-2, a Mr. Everard is mentioned as holding the
+government of the leeward West India islands. An official
+document, however, written in the year 1655, speaks of a
+gentleman of that name as governor of St. Kitt's only.
+
+Antigua, among most of the other colonies in this quarter of the
+globe, refusing to acknowledge the rights of the Protector, Sir
+George Ayscue was sent with a squadron to reduce them. This
+island soon yielded to the Commonwealth's banner, and Colonel
+Christopher Reynall was appointed governor, instead of the
+individual who had so daringly withstood the parliamentary power.
+
+In 1654, the Caribs again made a descent upon Antigua; but the
+English were enabled to repel their invaders, and effect such
+slaughter among them, that but few escaped to tell the tale. This
+victory appears to have intimidated the Indians; and for the next
+two or three years, the island had rest from their relentless
+invasions. About this period, Antigua was a prey to great
+dissensions between the governor and the governed. Complaints
+were forwarded by the inhabitants to Barbados, praying the
+governor of that island to use his influence in endeavouring to
+put a stop to their internal distractions. On the other hand, the
+Governor of Antigua, Colonel Christopher Reynall, wrote to the
+Lord Protector, imploring his Highness to take the island under
+his more particular command, and, by his authority, quell the
+disaffections which had so unfortunately crept in among them. The
+following letter from the Governor of Antigua, and the extract
+from one written by Daniel Searle, Esq., Governor of Barbados,
+are taken from "Thurloe's State Papers":--
+
+  Copy of a letter from Christopher Reynall, Governor of Antigua,
+     to the Lord Protector of England, Oliver Cromwell.
+
+"May it please your Highness,
+
+"Upon the reducement of these parts in that expedition of Sir
+George Ayscue's employ, I was by him and the other commissioners,
+then empowered and commissioned to be _governor_ and
+_commander-in-chief_ of this island of Antigua, in relation and
+obedience to the Commonwealth of England, which, to the best of
+my endeavours, I hope in my instrument, I have faithfully
+performed; in the progress of which my employ being, I have
+received by several advice, that it was and is thought meet, and
+so established by the Great Council and Estate of England, with
+your Highnesses consent and acceptation, that the government of
+our nation and dominions remain in yourself as Lord Protector; a
+thing most acceptable to me, who do most faithfully wish your
+Highness and the Commonwealth welfare and happiness; and, in
+manifestation thereof, have cheerfully acknowledged and submitted
+to all such mandates or expresses which hath hitherto come in the
+name of the Lord Protector. But in our private consultations,
+considering of _many spirits amongst us_, doubting their
+satisfactions have not attained the title of our ...... or
+......; according to our desires and intentions, lest an
+ill-affected party should presume to take an advantage thereby in
+pretending, as some have already given out, that there were no
+power of government, but all as libertine, until a new commission
+came from your Highness; which, by that means might endanger the
+place to a confusion and ruin: so render us incapable of that
+service we desire to perform to your Highness and the
+Commonwealth. The place of itself (if encouragement and small
+help were afforded) being of consequence, by reason of the
+fertility of the soil, and exceeding all others settled in these
+parts, in convenient and safe harbours--I, in relation to the
+promises and my loyalty to your Highness and the Commonwealth, do
+prostrate my humble desire at the feet of your Highness's care
+and justice, as so far to take up the people and place into your
+consideration, as to give such orders and directions as may put
+us not only in the condition of walking inoffensively, but also
+as we may be serviceable to your Highness and the Commonwealth,
+which is the hearty desire of
+
+            "Your most obedient subject and servant,
+
+                                  (Signed) "Christopher Reynall.
+
+  "From the Island of Antigua, in the parts of America,
+
+"Aug. 20th, 1654."
+
+The extract from Governor Searle's letter, dated from Barbados,
+Nov. 7th, 1655, and addressed to Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector,
+&c., is as follows:--
+
+"Some addresses have likewise been made unto me, by Mr. Jos. Lee,
+Mr. Benjamin Langham, and Richard Farley, inhabitants of Antego,
+in behalf of themselves and the people of that colony, concerning
+some distractions among them, and the present unsettled and
+desturbed condition of that colony. But finding I have no power
+to take cognizance of anything of that nature, without the bounds
+of this colony, without a special order from your Highness, I
+have transmitted their complaints, and the state of the matter in
+difference betwixt them and the governor going off, which your
+Highness will here receive."
+
+In 1665, Antigua joined with Barbados, St. Christopher's, and
+Nevis, in levying troops to join the intended expedition of
+Admiral Pen and General Venables, (of which accounts had been
+received from England,) in their projected attack upon St.
+Domingo--an island at that period under the power of Spain, but
+which Cromwell was very desirous of obtaining. From the copy of a
+State paper, it appears, however, that upon the arrival of the
+Commonwealth fleet, the Governor of Antigua, Christopher Reynall,
+represented to the commanders of the expedition, the disastrous
+state of the island, from the frequent, and particularly the
+_late_, molestations of the Caribs;--a fact so clearly presented
+to Pen and Venables, that they would not lessen the force of the
+place, by impressing any of its inhabitants for soldiers. They,
+therefore, remained only two days at Antigua, during which period
+they proclaimed the Protector with great pomp; and then proceeded
+to St. Christopher's, and the other leeward islands, where they
+procured a sufficient complement of men. I am sorry, however,
+that an historian of great fame states, "the troops raised in the
+West Indies were the most profligate of mankind."
+
+As Antigua did not eventually join in this expedition, it will be
+sufficient to remark, that the attack upon St. Domingo was very
+disastrous; for, although upon the first approach of the English,
+the Spaniards left their town and fled into the woods, the troops
+did not follow up their advantage. Venables allowed the soldiers
+to disembark, without a guide, ten miles from the capital; and,
+wandering about without any fixed purpose for the space of four
+days, they gave the Spaniards time to recover themselves from
+their alarm, and, rushing from their place of concealment, they
+fell upon the English, who were almost dead with fatigue and
+hunger, killed six hundred of them, and drove the remainder on
+board their vessels. In order to atone for their indiscretions,
+the English commanders resolved to proceed against Jamaica, also
+under the dominion of Spain, and which island immediately
+surrendered to the English flag, without a blow being struck in
+its defence. Colonel Doyly being appointed governor of the new
+gained colony, with about 3000 land forces under his command, and
+a fleet of men-of-war under Vice-Admiral Goodson, Pen and
+Venables prepared to return home. Landing the West India troops
+at their respective islands, the commanders sailed for England;
+but, upon their arrival, they were both sent to the Tower, for
+their failure upon St. Domingo, entirely owing to their want of
+proper conduct as English officers.
+
+Upon the Restoration, Antigua held out for the Commonwealth, as
+strenuously as in 1651 it had opposed the pretensions of
+Cromwell, and for this cause, Charles II. appointed Major-General
+Poyntz, a former deserter from the Parliamentary power, to act as
+governor, which situation he filled until 1663, when Lord Francis
+Willoughby, of Parham, obtained a grant of the entire island from
+Charles II. as a reward for his eminent services in the cause of
+that monarch; and Major-General Poyntz retired to Virginia.
+During the period this latter gentleman resided at Antigua as
+governor, he owned and planted an estate called by him Cassada
+Garden, a title which it still bears.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[4] The following extract alludes to the invasions of the Caribs
+(Rochfort's Histoire des Antilles, published at Rotterdam, 1665,
+tome 4, page 310):--"Les Caraibs ont fait des descent dans les
+isles de Montserrat, d'Antigoa, et en d'autres qui sont occup�es
+par les Anglais, et apr�s avoir brul� quelques maisons, et pill�
+quelques meubles; ils ont enlev� des hommes, des femmes et des
+enfans, qu'ils ont conduit � la Dominique et � St. Vincents."
+
+[5] An estate in Antigua called by that name.
+
+[6] This rock is still pointed out upon an estate, called
+Patterson's, belonging to the Hon. John Athill.
+
+[7] The proper appellation of this gentleman (according to the
+authority of E. S. B------, Esq.) is Colonel _Luke Stokes_; but,
+from an orthographical error of the French historian, _Du
+Tertre_, he has been handed down to posterity as Colonel _Lake_.
+He afterwards removed to Jamaica at the head of a small party of
+English settlers, where he died in 1659, universally esteemed for
+his virtues and honourable actions.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER III.
+
+
+
+  Rupture between France and England--War in the West Indies--
+  Loss of Lord Francis Willoughby--Colonel Carden--Capture of
+  Antigua by the French forces under M. de la Barre--Colonel
+  Fitche--Restoration of Antigua by the Treaty of Breda--Death of
+  Colonel Carden--Biographical notices.
+
+In 1665-6, England was engaged in a contest with Holland,
+Denmark, and France; and during that period, her colonies in the
+West Indies suffered greatly, particularly St. Christopher's and
+Antigua.
+
+St. Christopher's being reduced by the French, Lord Francis
+Willoughby headed an expedition of 2000 troops, and sailed from
+Barbados (where he was then residing in preference to Antigua)
+with the hope of recapturing that island. On his passage to St.
+Christopher's, he visited Martinique, with the design of
+surprising the place, and, after taking the French prisoners, to
+transport them to Antigua, Montserrat, and Nevis. The French,
+however, having received tidings of his movements, were
+accordingly prepared; and Lord Willoughby, finding himself
+baffled in his intentions, sailed for Guadaloupe, where he
+arrived on the 2nd of August. Before any success was effected
+against this island, a dreadful hurricane arose, which, raging
+with extreme violence for the space of twenty-four hours,
+entirely destroyed the fleet of Lord Willoughby, strewing the
+coast with its fragments, and every soul perished, with the
+exception of two seamen.[8]
+
+Before embarking upon this expedition, this ill-fated nobleman
+appointed his nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby, lieutenant-general
+and governor of these islands, who in his turn constituted
+Colonel Carden governor of Antigua.
+
+Before the declaration of war between France and England was
+published, several Frenchmen had left the French colonies, from
+different motives, and settled in Antigua, where they lived
+sociably with the English, and prosecuted their respective
+professions. After the rupture between those nations was known in
+the West Indies, and the report of the intended attack upon St.
+Christopher's by the French, reached the ears of Lord F.
+Willoughby, he dispatched his nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby, to
+the relief of that place. Arriving, however, too late for the
+action, he was obliged to proceed with his ship to Antigua; and
+being (according to Du Tertre, the French historian) in "_a
+burning rage_" at the failure of his plans, he vented it upon the
+French settlers whom he found there--confiscating their property,
+forbidding them to quit their houses, or hold communications
+between themselves, under pain of death, and obliging them to
+swear allegiance to the English monarch.
+
+"Many of them submitted, in a very cowardly manner," remarks the
+above-named quaint author; "but others, _whose heart was in a
+better place, refused to do so_."
+
+Among these French settlers was a young surgeon, of the name of
+Grand-Maison, who had been formerly _valet-de-chambre_ to M. de
+la Barre, lieutenant-general by sea and land of the French
+forces, and who was fully alive to the tyrannical manner in which
+himself and his countrymen had been treated. Having a little more
+liberty than the others, from the nature of his profession,
+Grand-Maison had an opportunity of entering into conversation
+with another young Frenchman, of the name of Baston, who, says Du
+Tertre, "was skilful by sea and land, courageous and brave, and
+an admirer of firmness and constancy." Finding Grand-Maison
+entertained the same sentiments as himself, he proposed that they
+should steal a small shallop, which was attached by an iron chain
+to a post firmly planted in the beach, and taking advantage of
+the darkness of the night, effect their escape from the island.
+As, however, the oars had been carried away by the owner of the
+boat, they bribed a French carpenter, who was engaged working in
+some of the back woods of Antigua, to join them in their
+enterprise, and make them a pair in that retired place.
+
+Grand-Maison, who served a very rich master,[9] took the charge
+of bringing a sufficient quantity of provisions from his home;
+and between them they procured five muskets, a few pairs of
+pistols, some cutlasses, twenty or thirty pounds of powder, and
+lead in proportion. But thinking themselves not strong enough to
+man the shallop, Grand-Maison, who was very much beloved by the
+negroes, engaged two of them, who were esteemed excellent rowers,
+to accompany him.
+
+All things being duly prepared, they stole away from their
+masters by night, hurried to the beach, and the carpenter having
+sawn in two the post to which the boat was fastened, they
+departed, and made for Guadaloupe. After struggling manfully
+against the current and contrary winds for some time, running
+many risks of their lives, and putting back into Antigua once or
+twice, they changed their resolution, and made for St.
+Christopher's--arriving in Cabsterre, a district of that island,
+at the very time M. de Chambre was on the point of sailing for
+Martinique, to rejoin M. de la Barre, with all the French ships
+of war.
+
+M. Sannois, captain of that district, welcomed the adventurers,
+and treated them very kindly; and upon hearing their story, sent
+them to M. de St. Laurent, who, after examining them, and finding
+them well informed of the strength and natural barriers of
+Antigua--and more particularly, as Baston gave him a plan of the
+coast, shewing the best landing-places, and offered himself as a
+guide to the troops, to lead them to the place "wherever
+resistance might be expected," and to be _everywhere_ "at their
+head,"--he determined to send them with M. de Chambre to M. de la
+Barre, at Martinique.
+
+Upon their arrival at that island, at counsel was held, and
+Grand-Maison and Baston introduced, when the latter repeated his
+offers. The assembly was well pleased with his information and
+solid reflections; but M. de Chambre represented, that the
+officers of the French forces were so contented with the conquest
+of St. Kitts, that he thought they would be unwilling to engage
+in any new adventure, unless there was an augmentation of the
+troops. To this objection M. Clodor�, the Governor of Martinique,
+replied, in such a splendid speech, abounding with so much true
+martial ardour, that every objection was borne down before him;
+and M. de Chambre was led to observe, that if M. St. Laurent had
+heard the powerful arguments brought forward by M. de Clodor�, he
+would change his opinion, and join in attacking Antigua; and he
+did not believe M. St. Leon, (the commanding officer,) with his
+brother officers, would even stand firm in their resolution after
+hearing him. M. de Chambre then asked M. Clodor� if he would
+accompany him to St. Christopher's, to consult with the other
+officers. M. Clodor� immediately replied he should be most happy
+to do so, if M. de la Barre would give him such instructions in
+writing; which being directly complied with, they made sail 25th
+October, 1666, with seven vessels of war, carrying 166 pieces of
+cannon, and commanded by M. de la Barre, admiral of the whole
+fleet; M. de Clodor�, Governor of Martinique; M. du Lion,
+Governor of Guadaloupe; M. de Chambre, Intendant of the French
+West Indian Company's affairs; and attended by 130 men of the
+regiment of Poictiers, commanded by Sieur d'Orvillier, and two
+companies of infantry, besides the seamen.
+
+Calling in at Guadaloupe, they held another council of war, in
+which it was determined to sail for St. Kitt's; but at the same
+time to come so near to Antigua as to be able to reconnoitre the
+island, and ascertain if it would be prudent to attack it before
+they proceeded to St. Christopher's.
+
+Leaving Guadaloupe on the 2nd November, they made sail for
+Antigua, bearing the English flag as a subterfuge, and thinking
+by that means to deceive the English. Upon reaching Antigua, they
+endeavoured to get into the harbour of St. John's; but meeting
+with contrary winds, they put back and made for Five Islands'
+Bay, which at that period was defended by two forts--the smaller
+one (which appears to have been only an artificial mound, without
+any parapets or any kind of fortifications) mounted with six
+guns; the larger one (with good stone buildings, and standing in
+that part now occupied by the batteries of "Goat's Hill") mounted
+with eight guns. The men stationed at the smaller fort had their
+suspicions first awakened by observing how carefully the French
+came in, sounding with the lead every moment; and consequently
+they determined to fire upon them.
+
+To this _warm_ welcome the French replied in such a manner,
+bringing all their guns to bear upon the place, that the English
+abandoned the fort, and fled. Arriving abreast of the larger
+fort, the French anchored at pistol-shot; and the firing was
+carried on with such vigour, that it was also abandoned, and that
+with such precipitancy, that the royal flag was left behind.
+
+The signal was now made for a party to land and take possession
+of the forts, with directions to capture all they could, but not
+to burn or destroy any part of the country, wisely remarking,
+according to their own narrator, that "they could do that another
+time." These orders for forbearance, if they were ever given,
+were not attended to; for everything that fell in their way was
+devastated; and it has been remarked by an old author, that the
+French robbed the very shoes from off the feet of the
+inhabitants.[10]
+
+But to return to the particulars of the attack. The next morning,
+about four o'clock, M. de Clodor�, &c., attended by 200 men,
+landed upon the beach, and, guided by Baston, proceeded to the
+house where the governor, Colonel Carden, then resided, which was
+situated about a mile and a half from the shore. The English
+fought with their usual bravery, but were at length overpowered;
+and Colonel Carden, Colonel Monk, and about thirty other
+officers, were taken prisoners, and the house burnt to the
+ground.
+
+The governor, being thus captured, was conveyed on board the
+admiral's ship; and the French were so elated with their success,
+that they determined to push on their good fortune, and endeavour
+to subdue the whole island. The next day, they again landed at
+daybreak, attended by 240 men, divided into two companies, and
+guided by Baston. Reaching a large house situated upon a hill,
+they dispatched a trumpeter to summon the inhabitants to
+surrender, among whom was Mrs. Carden, the wife of the governor.
+This trumpeter carried a letter, written by Colonel Carden,
+describing how well he was treated(?), and advising them not to
+wait to the last extremity to surrender, but to do so without
+delay. To this letter they returned a verbal answer, thanking the
+French for their polite treatment to their governor, but at the
+same time intimating, that they were resolved to do their duty,
+and resist to the last.
+
+Upon receiving this reply, the French commanders prepared for
+battle, and resolved to storm the house. At first they were
+repulsed by the English; and the greater part of the regiment of
+Poictiers, commanded by the Sieur d'Orvillier, being seized with
+a panic, retreated and concealed themselves in a neighbouring
+wood; but Mons. de Clodor�, seeing the state of affairs, hurried
+to the spot, and, being joined by the officers of the regiment
+and about thirty of the common soldiers, whom they had prevailed
+upon to leave their concealment, made a second attack upon the
+house, and succeeded in forcing an entrance.
+
+A battalion of the English making their appearance upon the hill
+behind the house, M. de Clodor� drew off his men to engage with
+them, while D'Orvillier and the rest of the party were left in
+charge of the edifice. Upon entering, they found Colonel Quest
+(who had taken the command of the island after the seizure of
+Colonel Carden) seated "in an arm-chair, with a pair of pistols
+cocked in his hand," and surrounded by a few brave English.
+Colonel Quest demanded quarter, to which a Frenchman replied by
+sending a ball through his body; and the rest of the English who
+were with him, were slaughtered without mercy.
+
+In justice to M. de Clodor�, it must be remarked, that as soon as
+he knew of these proceedings, he endeavoured to put a stop to
+them, and finally saved the lives of about fifty English, who had
+concealed themselves in another part of the house.
+
+After burning down the edifice, and many others in the vicinity--
+which were described as being very handsome ones--killing fifty
+of the English, and getting all the plunder they could, the
+French proceeded to the beach, carrying their prisoners, about
+fifty in number, along with them. Upon arriving there, it was
+agreed to ship them immediately, and despatch them to St. Kitts,
+with the wounded Frenchmen, among whom was Baston, the instigator
+of the attack, and who afterwards died of his wound at that
+island.[11] When Colonel Quest was to be carried down to the
+beach along with the other prisoners, he was found to be so
+seriously wounded, that he was unable to walk; and consequently,
+one of the French officers proposed to despatch him, offering to
+do the deed himself. At this barbarous scheme, M. de Clodor� was
+justly incensed; and, ordering a few of his soldiers to form a
+kind of bier, had him carefully conducted on board the ship that
+was to carry him to St. Kitts, in which island he also died.
+
+After getting rid of their prisoners, the French held another
+council of war, when it was resolved to send a trumpeter,
+summoning all the inhabitants to surrender, threatening to set
+fire to all their property should they demur. A compliance with
+this demand appears to have been wholly unexpected by the French,
+and their threat of burning only a species of _bravado_; for at
+this council it was resolved, that if the English held out, they
+would immediately sail for St. Christopher's with the whole
+fleet. Fate, however, willed it otherwise, and the trumpeter
+brought answer back, that the English were willing to accede to
+their demand, and desired a place to be appointed in which to
+treat about the terms of capitulation. Overjoyed at their
+unexpected success, the French named the harbour of St. John's as
+the place of treaty; and accordingly despatched one of their
+frigates--the "Armes d'Angleterre," on board of which the
+conference was to be held. On the tenth of November, 1666, M. de
+Clodor�, M. de Chambre, &c. &c., accompanied by four shallops,
+containing eighty armed men, proceeded on board that vessel, and
+were quickly joined by Lieut.-Colonel Bastien Baijer, Colonel
+Buckley, Joseph Lee, Captain Samuel Winthorp,[12] Captain Philip
+Warner, and James Halliday, who were appointed by the English to
+sign the capitulation.
+
+All arms, ammunition, forts, batteries, &c., were to be given up
+to the French; but the English were to be allowed to retain their
+property, have free exercise of their religion; (except in that
+immediate district which the French governor might choose as his
+quarters;) and Colonel Carden, who had been detained prisoner of
+war on board one of the enemy's vessels, was to be restored to
+liberty.
+
+After signing the capitulation, on the 12th of November, the
+English deputies despatched Colonel Buckley on board the "Armes
+d'Angleterre," with the information that there were three hundred
+soldiers arrived from Barbados, which would prevent them from
+fulfilling their part of the treaty; _but that if the French
+thought proper to hazard an attack, they (the deputies) would not
+interfere_.
+
+Upon receiving this message, the greater part of the French
+officers were for detaining Colonel Buckley as an hostage, as
+well as refusing to liberate Colonel Carden; but to this M. de
+Clodor� would not assent, remarking that as he had given his word
+to restore Colonel Carden to liberty, and Colonel Buckley had
+come on board under protection of a flag of truce, they should
+both be conveyed safely to land. This was accordingly done the
+same day; but Monsieur Giraud, the head commander of St. Kitts,
+seeing Colonel Buckley on shore, and not being aware of M. de la
+Barre's intentions towards him, had him seized and conveyed on
+board the admiral's ship; who, being of different opinion to M.
+de Clodor�, detained him as a hostage; and the whole of the
+French forces having embarked, the fleet sailed for St. Kitts,
+where they arrived on the 15th of November.
+
+After remaining there a few days, M. de Clodor� sailed for
+Martinique to transact some necessary business, and then,
+accompanied by a fleet of six frigates, returned to Antigua, to
+oblige the inhabitants to fulfil the treaty they had signed. He
+arrived on the 30th of November, but found the state of affairs
+entirely changed, Mr. Willoughby having appointed Colonel Daniel
+Fitche, (who upon the former visit of the French was staying at
+Nevis,) governor of Antigua, in place of Colonel Carden, and the
+island being reinforced by the arrival of some troops from
+Barbados.
+
+Surprised but not intimidated, M. de Clodor�, with the
+concurrence of his principal officers, sent a trumpeter to
+Colonel Carden, calling upon him to fulfil the treaty, and oblige
+the inhabitants to surrender. This message was received by
+Colonel Carden in the presence of some of the English officers;
+but the same night, by the order of Colonel Fitche, (who was
+displeased at his expressing his opinion, that it was but
+equitable to stand by their written contract,) he was arrested
+and sent to prison. Upon this occasion, Mrs. Carden despatched
+the following letter to M. de Clodor�:--
+
+"Mons.,
+
+"Mon mary cette nuit a est� enlev� d'aupr�s de moy par deux
+officers et deux soldats, et ce qu'ils pretendent faire de moy et
+des miens, jusqu'� present ie n'en s�ay encore rien; mais en
+crains qu'il ne nous en arrive mal. Je vous supplie
+tres-humblement, Monsieur, voyant que moy, les mien, et ma
+famille est delaiss�e et abandon�e de nostre nation; qu'il vous
+plaise nous prendre sous votre protection, nous qui n'avons lev�
+la main ni le coeur contre vous; et moy et les miens, et beaucoup
+d'autres, prieront pour vostre prosperit� et ie prend la
+hardiesse de me qualifier,
+
+                    "Monsieur, vostres, &c.
+
+                                             "Marie Carden."[13]
+
+[N.B.--These letters are literally transcribed.]
+
+Upon the same day, Colonel Carden despatched the following letter
+to M. de Clodor�:--
+
+"Monsieur,
+
+"J'aurois eu l'honneur de vous aller trouver, mais i'ay este
+intercept� par ordre de Mons. le Gouverneur Fitche, et il ne m'a
+pas est� permis de sortir. J'espere, Monsieur, que ne croirez, ni
+ne iugerez autre chose de celuy qui prend la libert� de se
+souscrire,--Mons., votres, &c.
+
+                                            "Robert Carden."[14]
+
+Soon after sending this letter, Colonel Carden was liberated, and
+immediately proceeding on board the French ship, delivered
+himself up to M. de Clodor�, and informed him that Colonel Fitche
+and his troops were encamped at Pope's Head. Upon hearing this,
+M. de Clodor� immediately weighed anchor, and sailing round the
+coast, arrived off Pope's Head the same night. The next morning,
+the following letters were despatched to him from the English
+camp:--
+
+"Monsieur,
+
+"Nous avons receu vos semonces de venir � bord delivrant en
+vostre possession nos armes et munitions de guerre; laquelle
+chose, le changement de nos affaires est tel depuis vostre
+depart, qu'il ne vous la peut pas permettre. Monsieur le
+Lieut.-General de nostre roy ayant envoy� icy le Col. Daniel
+Fitche pour son gouverneur, luy a donn� pouvoir sur toute la
+milice de cette isle: si-bien, Mons., que nous sommes devenus
+tout-�-fait incapables de vous donner aucune reponse
+satisfactoire; et sur l'examination des affaires pass�es, a
+trouv� qu'elles estoient beaucoup � notres preiudice; et en
+particulier envoyant les Careibes deux fois sur nous contre
+l'obligation de vos articles, et les loix des nations, des
+personnes qui sont cruels, tout-�-fait barbares et ignorans de
+Dieu et de toutes civilitez. Neanmoins, Monsieur, nous vous
+supplions suivant ce que nous avons d�iafait, d'en faire vos
+demandes � nostre dit gouverneur, qui est uniquement experiment�
+en matiere de guerre. En attendant nous demeurons,
+
+             "Monsieur, vos tres-humble serviteurs,
+
+                                   "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."[15]
+
+"Mons.,
+
+"Nous avons receu la vostre, � laquelle nous ne pouvons � present
+faire aucune reponse, si non qu'il n'est pas en nostre pouvoir de
+convenir � vos semonces, ni � aucunes choses cy-devant faites;
+parce que depuis vostre depart d'icy, est arriv� le Col. Daniel
+Fitche, avec commission de Monsieur le Lieut.-Gen. pour
+gouverneur, auquel vos semonces et demandes doivent estre faites,
+comme estant seul commandant de la milice. Nous trouvons que nous
+avons receu grand preiudice � la rupture des articles concernans
+les Careibes, qui ont deux fois attent� sur nous � leur maniere
+accoustum�e, qui est cruelle et barbarienne. Nous serions reio�is
+de vous voir si le souhaittez; car on attend icy quinze navires
+de la Barbade, dont il y en a cinq de trente pieces de canon
+chacun, et deux de soixante, et huit navires marchands de vingt �
+trente pieces de canon, avec mil soldats du roy vestus de
+casaques rouges, avec quantit� d'armes: vous presentant vous
+rendrez service. Nous demeurons,
+
+          "Monsieur, vos asseurez amis et serviteurs,
+
+                                   "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."[16]
+
+Upon receiving these letters, M. de Clodor� held a council with
+his officers, the results of which were as follow:--
+
+"As the enemy have made no answer to our summons, sent three days
+ago, to fulfil the conditions of the treaty made with them; but,
+on the contrary, they have sent these letters this morning, in
+which, after having sought vain pretences of rupture, they
+declare they are not willing to fulfil it, and at the same time
+they have disposed guard-houses along the coast, and caused
+several armed persons to oppose our landing; it has been found
+proper to accept the rupture they have made of the treaty, and
+after having fired a cannon-ball at them, to land, in order to
+make them return to their duty, without paying regard to the
+letters they have sent. Besides the absence of Monsieur de la
+Barre, and the necessity we are in to send back immediately the
+island troops to Martinique and Guadaloupe, to oppose the enemy,
+who, according to advices received, will soon arrive there, it is
+impossible now to keep the island of Antigua for the king. It has
+therefore been thought proper to land, attack the enemy, and, in
+case of success, place the island in such a state, that the enemy
+can draw no sort of profit from it.
+
+"Done unanimously between us, the undersigned, in the harbour of
+Antigua, the 3rd December, 1666.
+
+                                                    "De Clodore,
+                                                        Blondel,
+                                                     Hinsselin."
+
+During the period the council was being held, several armed
+soldiers, (of the English troops,) impatient to know what answer
+would be returned to their letters, appeared upon the beach; upon
+which, according to the resolutions already passed, a cannon-ball
+was fired at them, when they dispersed, and appeared no more,
+without a white flag in their hand. Before the French council
+broke up, an English officer came on board, bringing the
+following letter for M. de Clodor�:--
+
+"Monsieur,
+
+"Nous vous avons envoy� ce matin telle reponse que nous pouvions,
+estant sous le commandement et autorit� de Mons. le Gouverneur,
+au pouvoir duquel n'estions pas capables de resister; mais depuis
+que nous luy avons fait voir amplement la raison de nostre
+premier trait� et nostre refus de rompre, avons tant fait qu'il
+en est demeur� d'accord, moyennant qu'il y soit, compris comme le
+reste des habitans; le dit trait� et accord sera ponctuellement
+ratifi� et effectu� en toutes ses particularitez.
+
+                      "Monsieur, vos, &c.,
+
+                                   "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."[17]
+
+But paying no regard to this letter, M. de Clodor� wrote them as
+follows:--
+
+"Messieurs,
+
+"J'ay est� fort surpris, lorsque j'ay ve� que vous n'avez pas
+repondu � la sommation que ie vous ay fait faire, et encore
+davantage lorsque i'ay le� la lettre que vous m'avez envoy�e ce
+matin, o� vous nous accusez de vous avoir trait� avec rigueur,
+pour chercher pretexte de rompre comme vous avez fait, en
+manquant � vostre foy et � vostre parolle. Je descends � terre et
+vous vais trouver, pour vous mettre � vostre devoir par la voye
+des armes: ceux qui les poseront, auront de moy bon quartier, et
+les autres seront traitez selon la rigueur de la guerre.
+
+                       "Vostre serviteur,
+
+                                               "De Clodore."[18]
+
+Immediately after sending this letter, M. de Clodor� and
+Hinscelin landed with the French forces; but, upon gaining the
+beach, they were met by a party of the English, bearing a flag of
+truce, and offering, in the name of the inhabitants, to give up
+all pretensions to this island, provided they would include
+Governor Fitche in the treaty.
+
+To this proposition M. de Clodor� would not assent, but forming
+his troops into battle array, marched to attack the English. The
+result of this encounter appears to me so remarkable, that it
+obliges me again and again to assure my readers I give the true
+translation: "marching to attack the new Governor and his eight
+or nine hundred men, only two shots were fired by the English,
+one of which wounded _their own sentinel_, and this was the only
+blood spilt in this engagement; and Governor Fitche hearing that
+M. de Clodor� was coming up with all his troops, and four pieces
+of artillery, ran away in a boat with Colonel Warner and some
+others, saying to his soldiers only these words--"God be with me,
+and with you."
+
+Thus have I narrated the reduction of Antigua by the French,
+following the steps of their own historian, "Du Tertre," who of
+course speaks in favour of his own countrymen. Antigua remained a
+French colony, although of no use to the nation, except from the
+plunder obtained from it, until the following year, when by the
+treaty of Breda, Louis XIV. restored it to the English crown.[19]
+The French appear to have ever doubted their success; and their
+attack upon Antigua, in the first instance, seemed only intended
+as a feint; but by one of those extraordinary accidents, which we
+often meet with in the annals of nations, the island was reduced,
+and in the second attack, if we may believe Du Tertre, _only two
+shots_ were fired in its defence.
+
+At the period of this conquest of Antigua, there were about 800
+negroes upon the island, but of these the French could only find
+about 500, which they carried away with them, along with their
+plunder. The after fate of Colonel Carden was truly shocking.
+Soon after the French had abandoned Antigua, a party of Caribs
+landed, and cruelly treated the defenceless inhabitants. At
+length they proceeded to the house of the ex-governor, Colonel
+Carden, who treated them very kindly, and administered to their
+want. Upon their leaving, they requested their entertainer to
+accompany them to the beach, who instantly complied; but the
+Caribs, more treacherous than the wild beasts that haunt the
+desert, had no sooner reached the place where their canoes were
+stationed, than they fell upon their kind host, cruelly murdered
+him, and broiled his head, which they afterwards carried with
+them to Dominica. Nor were they satisfied with this horrible
+piece of barbarity; for, to make the tragedy complete, they
+returned to Colonel Carden's house, seized his wife and children,
+and after telling them of the fate of their kind relative,
+hurried them away into a captivity worse than death.
+
+The Bastian Baijer--whose name appears conspicuous in signing the
+capitulation, and in the after letters which passed between the
+English and the French--was of Dutch extraction, and one who
+emigrated to this island at an early period of its colonization.
+He died in London, in the year 1704, and in his will directed
+that his remains should be interred in the vaults of the Dutch
+church in Austin Friars, which was accordingly done. Many of the
+descendants (or rather representatives, for Bastian Baijer died
+without issue, and left his property to the person who assumed
+his name) of Bastian Baijer have resided in the island until
+within a year or two. The remains of one member of that family,
+Otto Baijer, Esq., moulders beneath the beautiful tomb, a
+description of which will be found in Chapter XV.; and the
+remaining scion of the house, a female, was shortly since united
+to the Hon. Owen Pell, of Antigua, and of Suwell, county of
+Northampton.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[8] It is said, that some part of Lord Willoughby's fleet escaped
+the hurricane, and reached Jamaica in safety.
+
+[9] It must be remembered, that at the time we are now speaking
+of, surgeons did not hold that respectable rank in society as
+they now--that is, most of them--deservedly fill. Not so very
+many years ago, naval surgeons in particular were very little
+thought of; and even in the British navy, they were required to
+perform the office of barber, as well as attend to the bodily
+ailments of the crew.
+
+[10] To shew the state to which the French reduced the island,
+the following extract from a letter written by Count D'Estrade,
+ambassador from the French king to Charles II. of England, dated
+26th May, 1667, and addressed to Louis XIV., is inserted:--"Il
+nous dit de plus que le Sieur de la Barre avat ruin� celle
+d'Antigoa, et en avait fait transporter tout ce qu'il avait pu
+afin d'�tre mieux en etat de conserver de St. Christophe."
+
+_Translation_.--"He"--that is, the deputy from Zealand, with whom
+Count D'Estrade had had a conference at Breda, on 21st May, 1667
+--"informed us, in addition, that the said M. de la Barre had
+ruined the colony of Antigua, and had taken and transported from
+it all that he could, to the end that he might be in a better
+condition to retain possession of St. Christopher's."
+
+[11] His tombstone may be still seen in one of the churchyards of
+St. Christopher's.
+
+[12] For account of this gentleman, see Appendix, No. 3.
+
+[13] "Sir,--My husband has been arrested by two officers and two
+soldiers this night, and what they intend doing with me and my
+family, I know not even now; but I fear that some ill
+consequences will attend it. I beseech you humbly, Sir, seeing
+that myself and family are abandoned by our countrymen, that it
+may please you to protect us who have never assailed you; and
+myself, and family, and many others, shall pray for your
+prosperity; and I take the boldness to qualify myself,
+
+       "Sir, your very humble and very obedient servant,
+
+                                                  "Mary Carden."
+
+[14] "Sir,--I should have had the honour of waiting upon you, but
+I have been intercepted by the order of Governor Fitche, and I
+have been in custody since. I hope, Sir, you will not believe or
+think otherwise of him who takes the liberty of subscribing
+himself, Sir, yours, &c.,
+
+                                                "Robert Carden."
+
+[15] "Sir,--We have received your summons to come on board to
+deliver our arms and ammunition; which thing, such is the change
+in our affairs since your departure, as not to permit of our
+doing. The lieut.-general of our king having sent Colonel Daniel
+Fitche as his governor, has given him power over all the militia
+of this island. Thus, Sir, we are become entirely unable to give
+you any satisfactory answer; and, upon examination of the
+transactions which have taken place, we have found that they were
+so much to our prejudice, and in particular, sending the Caribs
+twice upon us, against the obligation of your articles and the
+laws of nations; persons who are cruel, entirely barbarous, and
+ignorant of God and of all civilities. However, Sir, we pray you,
+as we have already done, to address your demands to our governor,
+who alone is experienced in matters of war. In the meantime, we
+remain, yours, &c. &c.,
+                      "Bastien Baijer.        Gilbert Gregory.
+                       Philip Warner.         Henry Reynall.
+                       Richard Boraston.      Jeremiah Watkins.
+                       Samuel Winthorpe."
+
+[16] "Sir,--We have received your letter, to which we cannot at
+present give any other answer, but that it is not in our power to
+yield to your summons, nor to agree to anything done before;
+because, since your departure from here, Colonel Daniel Fitche is
+arrived, with commission from the lieutenant-general as governor,
+in obedience to an order from the king, which has been published.
+It is to the said governor that your summons and demands must be
+addressed, for he is the sole commander of the militia. We think
+that we have suffered great injury at the rupture of the articles
+concerning the Caribs, who attacked us twice in their wonted
+manner, which is cruel and barbarous. We would be glad to see
+you, _if you wish_, for we expect here, fifteen ships from
+Barbados, five of which are of fifteen guns each, and two of
+sixty; and eight merchantmen, of twenty to thirty guns; with a
+thousand of the king's soldiers, _dressed in their red jackets_,
+and a quantity of arms. By coming, you will render service. We
+remain, &c.,
+
+                                       "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."
+
+[17] "Sir,--We have sent this morning the only answer we could
+give, being under the command and authority of the governor, to
+whose power we could not resist; but as we have shewn him the
+reason of our first treaty, and our refusal to break it, we have
+done so much that he has agreed with us, provided he be included
+in it, with the rest of the inhabitants: the said treaty and
+agreement will be punctually ratified and executed in all its
+parts.
+
+                                       "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."
+
+[18] "Gentlemen,--I have been much surprised when I saw that you
+made no answer to the summons given you, and much more yet when I
+read the letters you sent me this morning, in which you charge us
+with having treated you with rigour, which is seeking for a
+pretence of rupture, as you have done by not keeping your faith
+and word. I am landing and coming to you, to teach you your duty
+by force of arms: those who will lay down their arms will have
+good quarter from me, and the others shall be treated according
+to the rigour of war. Your servant,
+
+                                                   "De Clodore."
+
+[19] It was for some time pending in the mind of Louis XIV.
+whether he should, or should not, restore Antigua to its rightful
+sovereign; and several letters passed between the King of the
+French and his ambassador, Count D'Estrade, (the deputy from
+Zealand assuring the count that he would use his influence to
+retain Antigua for his majesty, should such be his wish,) upon
+the subject. At length, however, Louis XIV., after much
+hesitation, authorized its rendition by a letter to Count
+D'Estrade, dated 6th May, 1667, of which the following is a
+translation:--
+
+"I have always forgotten to inform you, and even to put it in
+your instructions, that it is my intention to surrender the
+island of Antigua to the English, which belonged to them before
+the war. Thus you will make no difficulty by promising, by the
+treaty (of Breda), that all things shall be established in the
+island of St. Christopher, and that of Antigua, as they were
+previously to the rupture," &c.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+
+  Governors: Lord William Willoughby, Henry Willoughby--Arrival
+  of Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the progenitor of
+  the family of that name--Biographical remarks--Partition of the
+  Caribbee Islands--Sir William Stapleton--General Council and
+  Assembly--Colonel Philip Warner--Expedition against the Caribs
+  --Death of Indian Warner--Arrest and trial of Colonel P. Warner
+  --Acquittal--Dampier's account of this affair--Captain
+  Southey's History of the Indian Warner.
+
+After peace had been once more proclaimed between France and
+England, and Antigua restored to its rightful sovereign, the
+English government, being fully assured of the death of Lord
+Francis Willoughby, appointed Lord William Willoughby, of Parham,
+(who when the royalists rose against the parliament, after the
+deposition of Richard Cromwell, undertook to secure Lynn for his
+exiled majesty,) Captain-General and chief Governor of Barbados,
+Antigua, and the rest of the Leeward Caribbee Islands, as some
+reward for his services.
+
+Lord William Willoughby arrived at Antigua about 1668, and
+appointed Samuel Winthorpe his deputy-governor. During the first
+year of his lordship's administration, a registrar's office was
+established, and fees appointed for the same. The registrar and
+recorder was to be "a person of good discretion and honesty," and
+his salary paid in sugar and tobacco.[20] Acts were also passed
+for the "settling the inhabitants in their lands" and "for the
+encouragement and promoting the settling of the island"--very
+necessary measures, as all was in confusion, from the late cruel
+dealing of the French, in so dismantling their promising colony.
+This year also (1668) commenced the four and a half per cent.
+duty; which was an impost upon all native productions shipped
+from the island, to be paid to the reigning monarch, his heirs,
+and successors, in consideration of new grants of lands being
+given to the inhabitants after the restoration of Antigua to the
+English crown; all old titles to lands having become void by
+reason of the late conquest, by the French.
+
+Lord William Willoughby removing to Barbados about this time,
+nominated his son, Henry Willoughby, as acting-governor, the same
+gentleman who was left by Lord F. Willoughby deputy-governor of
+Barbados during his absence upon the disastrous expedition
+already spoken of. Nothing of much importance occurred during the
+short period Mr. H. Willoughby held the government. War had not
+broken out in the West Indies, although it threatened the mother
+country, so that the Antiguans had a little quiet to settle their
+domestic affairs. One of the first points to which they turned
+their attention was to endeavour to suppress the strong habit of
+profane cursing and swearing which had crept in among their
+community, and also to put a stop to the prevalence of inebriety.
+To bring this desirable reformation about, the legislature
+enacted, that a fine of ten pounds of sugar, or tobacco, was to
+be imposed upon every one who uttered an oath, or opened his lips
+to curse; and if any one was discovered in a state of
+intoxication, he could be made to pay fifty pounds of sugar, or
+not being able to procure that quantity, and being possessed of
+no other property which could be levied upon, he was condemned to
+be placed in the public stocks for the space of four hours. It
+would be well if something of the kind was in force now; our ears
+would not then, perhaps, be so frequently shocked as they are
+liable to be at every hour of the day by the passers-by.
+Regulations were also made for establishing a public treasury in
+the island, and regard paid to the martial bearing of the
+inhabitants, by exercising them in the science of arms.
+
+Among the settlers who came to Antigua with Francis Lord
+Willoughby, of Parham, was William Byam, a distinguished
+royalist, at that time major, but who afterwards acquired the
+rank of lieutenant-general.
+
+In 1644, Mayor Byam was among the officers in garrison at
+Bridgewater, and being on guard when an attempt was made by the
+parliamentary army to take the town by surprise, he defeated the
+forces with great slaughter, thereby averting for some time the
+fate of that important fortress. On the following year, Cromwell
+and Fairfax coming against Bridgewater with an overwhelming
+power, after a gallant and desperate resistance, the town was
+taken, and quarter only given to the garrison. The officers were
+immediately sent to London, and put at the disposal of the
+Parliament, whence they were despatched to the Tower, and other
+public prisons. After remaining in the Tower for some months,
+Major Byam accepted a pass "to go beyond the seas," (as the term
+then was,) and, with some of his military friends, he accordingly
+left the home of his fathers, and sought in Barbados--that last
+asylum for royalists--a retreat from the Oliverian power. Soon
+after his arrival, the important post of "treasurer of the
+island," as well as "master of the ordnance," was conferred upon
+him, together with large grants of land; but the number of
+_refugees_ increasing in the colony to such a surprising height,
+the Parliament became alarmed, and, in 1651, sent a fleet and
+armament, under command of Sir George Ayscue, to reduce the
+island. There being a defection in the garrison, owing to the
+withdrawal of Colonel Thomas Modiford from the side of the king,
+after a resistance of six months, the governor, Lord Francis
+Willoughby, of Parham, was compelled to think of terms; and
+accordingly he appointed, along with three other commissioners,
+Major Byam to negotiate a surrender. This gentleman and his
+coadjutors performed their parts so ably, that they obtained from
+the admiral terms allowed by all historians as alike
+"comprehensive and honourable." Indeed, when they were reported
+to England, though the Parliament did not refuse to ratify them,
+yet, considering them much too favourable, they never afterwards
+countenanced Sir George Ayscue. The very first act of the
+Parliament possession, contrary to the tenor of some of the
+articles, was to banish Mayor Byam and the other commissioners,
+and about ten more of the royalists, including Lord Willoughby
+himself. Major Byam retired to the then newly-founded settlement
+of Surinam, which being composed chiefly of the refugee followers
+of Charles, they, in those times of turmoil, elected him, by
+united suffrages, governor of the colony in 1654. In this
+situation he continued for six successive years, although
+Cromwell had despatched an officer of his own to take the
+command, being elected by universal voice, until the Restoration,
+when, in virtue of the proclamation at that time issued, he
+became governor for the crown. He was afterwards more formally
+confirmed in this appointment, in which he remained until the
+removal of the colony (or at least a large portion of it) to the
+island of Antigua, in virtue of the treaty of Breda, in 1667. Of
+this island he also became an early governor, as is still to be
+seen by many documents in the registrar's office, and resumed to
+himself that property which he had before acquired when on a
+visit to the island with Francis Lord Willoughby in 1650; and
+now, by letters patent for the crown, under date April, 1668,
+20th Charles II., among the estates of Lieutenant-General Byam
+renewed to him at this period, were the present Cedar Hill and
+his Willoughby Bay estate.[21]
+
+In 1672, his majesty Charles II. deemed it proper to make some
+alteration in the affairs of the West Indies. Hitherto all the
+Caribbee Islands were united under one government, but after the
+return of Lord William Willoughby to England, the king entered
+into fresh arrangements with the colonies, appointed him
+captain-general of Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent's and
+Dominica; and Sir William Stapleton captain-general and
+commander-in-chief of Antigua and the other Leeward Islands. This
+Windward Island's separation continues at the present time, after
+undergoing many changes, by having their own particular governor;
+as far as regards Barbados, St Lucia, and St. Vincent's. Dominica
+has at length been united with Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, St.
+Christopher's, Anguilla, Tortola, and the Virgin Islands, which
+now form the Leeward Caribbee government.
+
+During the general government, a general council and assembly was
+held at either of the islands whenever the legislature deemed any
+important matter rendered it necessary to convene them; but the
+respective islands in the government, however, retained each
+their laws as regarded local circumstances. When the
+commander-in-chief found it necessary for the public good to call
+together this general council and assembly, the freeholders of
+each island met together and made choice of five eligible
+inhabitants to act as their representatives.
+
+The convening of this general council and assembly accounts for
+the affairs of these different islands being wound up together,
+and laws which were passed at the one, answering, in many
+instances, for the others.
+
+Sir William Stapleton preferring Nevis, he made that island the
+seat of government, and Colonel Philip Warner (Sir Thomas
+Warner's son by his second wife) was appointed governor of
+Antigua. A very necessary precaution was adopted about this time
+--namely, the preventing persons wandering about cane-pieces,
+with lighted torches, hunting for land-crabs. If a free person
+was found so offending, the culprit was to pay into the public
+treasury one thousand pounds of sugar or tobacco; or if a slave,
+he was to be publicly whipped. This very dangerous practice
+continues to this day in seasons when the land-crabs are upon
+their travels, and certainly ought to meet with some punishment.
+So careless and thoughtless are the negroes, that large pieces of
+fire are frequently dropped upon the road while thus employed,
+which they never think of extinguishing; and as the scene of
+their exploits is generally in the vicinity of cane-pieces, where
+there is often a large quantity of dry cane-leaves, called in the
+country idiom, trash, serious accidents might, and indeed have
+been the result.
+
+It was also deemed advisable to ordain that marriages solemnized
+by the governor, council, or any justice of peace, should, in
+absence of beneficed clergymen from the island, be adjudged
+equally binding and lawful, as if the ceremony had been performed
+by an orthodox minister. This was a regulation very necessary in
+that early period, when there was as yet no established church
+erected, or any clergymen officiating in the colony; and,
+consequently, marriages were obliged to be celebrated by a civil
+power. It was also enacted by the legislature this year (1672),
+that slaves killed or maimed, while acting in defence of the
+country, should have their value ascertained by arbitration, and
+the amount paid over to their owners from the public treasury.
+
+In 1674, the inhabitants of Antigua presented an address to the
+captain-general, Sir William Stapleton, praying him to grant them
+a commission "to kill and destroy the Indians inhabiting the
+island of Dominica."
+
+From the period when Antigua was first settled by the English,
+the Caribs, as we have already seen, had been in the constant
+habit of landing upon it, and perpetrating the most fearful and
+horrid acts of violence upon its inhabitants. So frequent and
+barbarous were these attacks, that the colony at one time was in
+danger of being abandoned; and nothing but firm and vigorous
+measures on the part of the English could restrain the fury of
+their Indian adversaries, and quell their turbulent assaults.
+
+As soon, therefore, as his excellency, Sir William Stapleton,
+acceded to the request of the Antiguans in granting a commission,
+a large party of volunteers was formed, aided by some of the
+settlers from the neighbouring islands, of which, at the earnest
+entreaties of the council and assembly of Antigua, Governor
+Philip Warner took the command. They immediately proceeded to
+Dominica; and however different historians may relate the events
+of this action, they all concur in stating, that the English
+obtained a most signal victory over their Indian foes. In this
+fray the illegitimate son of Sir Thomas Warner, by a Carib woman
+--who was generally known by the name of Thomas Warner, or
+"Indian Warner," and who is said to have headed the Indians in
+many of their attacks upon the English--fell, as it is supposed,
+by the hands of his half-brother, Philip Warner, the governor of
+Antigua. Whether this deed was done by open warfare, or by
+treacherous means, is uncertain; but, upon the return of Colonel
+Philip Warner, the governor, to Antigua, after the reduction of
+the Caribs, the circumstances of the death of Indian Warner were
+inquired into either by Sir William Stapleton or Lord Willoughby,
+the results of which were, that Colonel Philip Warner was sent to
+England to stand his trial for the murder of his half-brother.
+After being kept in the Tower of London for some time, Colonel
+Warner was placed on board the Phoenix frigate, and despatched to
+Barbados, in order that he might be tried in the Court of Oyer
+and Terminer in that island.
+
+This resolution, on the part of the home government, was no
+sooner known in Antigua, than a strong remonstrance was drawn up
+in the name of the inhabitants, and after being signed by sixteen
+of the most influential men among the legislature, was
+transmitted to the justices for the trial of Colonel Warner at
+Barbados, setting forth the facts, that it was only through the
+most earnest prayer of the Antiguans, and not from any private
+motives of his own, that he was induced to take the command upon
+the attack of the Caribs, in which action the Indian Warner fell.
+The facts of this case being fully investigated, Colonel Warner
+was honourably acquitted, his lands,[22] which he had quietly
+yielded up on being sent to England for trial, were restored, and
+he was again permitted to exercise the functions of governor of
+Antigua.
+
+It certainly appears rather extraordinary that Colonel Warner
+should have stood his trial for this massacre of the Indians,
+when we find, that for more than fifty years after this
+occurrence, the Caribs were still hunted and destroyed as so many
+reptiles; but Indian Warner was one who ranked rather high in the
+opinion of Lord William Willoughby, and probably that nobleman
+felt incensed at his death. Many are the opinions of writers upon
+this subject. While some look upon Colonel Warner as the
+unjustified murderer of his half-brother; others are led to
+palliate the circumstances on the plea of Indian Warner being the
+chief actor in those cruel Carib attacks, which were generally
+made upon unarmed Englishmen, or their defenceless wives and
+children.
+
+Dampier, one of the greatest navigators among the Buccaneers,
+(before that name had acquired a dread from the lawless and
+bloody deeds its chieftains committed,) visited Antigua about the
+period of Indian Warner's death; and in his history of his
+voyages he has the following passage:--"About this time (1674)
+the Caribbees had done some spoil on our English plantations at
+Antego, and therefore Governor Warner's son by his wife took a
+party of men, and went to suppress these Indians, and came to the
+place where his brother _Indian_ Warner lived. Great seeming joy
+there was at their meeting, but how far real the event shewed;
+for the _English_ Warner, providing plenty of liquor, and
+inviting his half-brother to be merry with him, in the midst of
+his entertainment, ordered his men, upon a signal given, to
+murder him and all his Indians, which was accordingly performed.
+The reason of this inhuman action is diversely reported. Some say
+that this Indian Warner committed all the spoil that was done to
+the English, and for that reason his brother killed him and his
+men. Others, that he was a great friend to the English, and would
+not suffer his men to hurt them, but did all that lay in his
+power to draw them to an amicable commerce; and that his brother
+killed him because he was ashamed to be related to an Indian.
+But, be it how it may, he was called in question for the murder,
+and forced to come home, and take his trial in England. Such
+perfidious doings as these, besides the baseness of them, are
+great hindrances of our gaining interest among the Indians."
+
+Captain Southey, in his "Chronological History of the West
+Indies," writing of the events of 1674, says--"Sir Thomas
+Warner's son went with an expedition to suppress the Caribs, who
+were headed by his half-brother, his father's son by a Carib
+woman. He was received in a friendly manner by his relative. In
+the middle of the repast, upon a signal given, the Caribs were
+attacked and all massacred. Different reasons are given for this
+act of atrocity: one, that the Indian Warner committed all the
+ravages upon the English; another, that the murderer was ashamed
+of his Indian relations." Evidently Captain Southey took Dampier
+for his guide in relating this circumstance; and other authors,
+following in the wake, have handed Colonel Warner down to
+posterity, in the character of a fratricide. But before his
+actions are discussed, it would be well to lay aside all
+previously formed opinions, and, horrible as fratricide must
+appear to all, calmly take a retrospect of the great cruelties
+practised by the Caribs on the persons of the English, which led
+to the melancholy incident already narrated.[23] Before
+concluding this subject, it will be necessary to mention some
+further particulars of the Indian Warner, the half-brother, of
+whose death Colonel Philip Warner was made amenable.
+
+At the latter end of 1629, after having the honour of knighthood
+conferred upon him by Charles I., Sir Thomas Warner returned from
+England to St. Christopher's. Soon after his arrival, he entered
+into a league with the French settlers and Mons. D'Esnambuc, the
+captain of a French privateer; and, falling upon the Caribs by
+night, murdered in cold blood one hundred and twenty of the
+men.[24] The females they parted among themselves, and one of the
+handsomest of them fell to the share of Sir Thomas Warner,[25] by
+whom she had a son, a remarkably fine and intelligent lad. About
+the year 1645, when he was fifteen years old,[26] an old Carib
+man, who, by some chance, had remained upon the island after the
+expulsion of his countrymen, informed the boy of the former
+cruelties of the English to his mother's relations--a tale which
+so exasperated him, that he was determined to escape, the first
+opportunity, and join his Carib friends. At length he effected
+his purpose, and fled to Dominica,[27] where the Caribs had taken
+up their abode after being driven from St. Christopher's. So
+pleased were the Indians with this display of spirit on the part
+of their young relative, that they received him with open arms,
+looked upon him as their chief, shared with him all their
+predatory booty, and followed him in all his expeditions. In
+1664, Lord Francis Willoughby appointed this half-Carib (who bore
+the name of Thomas Warner) governor of Dominica, then inhabited
+by Indians. In this situation he remained until 1666, when he was
+captured by the French, and carried prisoner to St.
+Christopher's, (some authors say Guadaloupe,) where he met with
+very harsh treatment, and was not liberated until after the
+peace, and then only at the earnest interposition of Lord William
+Willoughby. After his liberation, he appears to have carried on
+his warfare with the English colonists, until, as already
+mentioned, 1674, when he met his fate in about the forty-fourth
+year of his age.
+
+As perhaps it may be interesting to some of my readers to look
+over the "_Remonstrance_," alluded to as drawn up by the members
+of the Antigua legislature in 1676, when Colonel Philip Warner
+was tried for the murder of his half-brother--I have inserted it
+in the Appendix, (No. 6.)
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[20] The French having entirely ruined Antigua, it was necessary
+to form all new regulations, as at the first settlement of the
+colony.
+
+[21] For a further account of this gentleman's family, see
+Appendix, No. 4.
+
+[22] For copy of the Grant of Land to Colonel P. Warner, see
+Appendix, No. 5.
+
+[23] Oldmixon, in his "British America," says:--"At this time
+(1676) there was a wicked practice in the West Indies, of which
+the English are accused; and that was, their stealing and
+enslaving Indians, which they took on the continent or the
+islands. And one Colonel Warner being charged with this unlawful
+traffic--if it deserves that name--was made a prisoner in
+England, and sent, aboard the Phoenix frigate, to Barbados, to
+take his trial there; but he found so many friends, that he came
+off."
+
+[24] Oldmixon, in his History of St Christopher's, speaking of
+this circumstance, says--"They (the Caribs) were willing enough
+to live peaceably with the Europeans who first landed there, and
+were upon the place when D'Esnambuc came thither; but, upon his
+landing, their boyez, or conjurers, telling them, in a general
+assembly met on purpose, that the foreigners were come to take
+away their country from them, and destroy them root and branch,
+it was resolved to massacre the English." He goes on to state,
+that the English and French, having gained intelligence of the
+Caribs' design to _cut their throats_, "fell upon the most
+factious of the natives by night, killed them, and drove the rest
+out of the island."
+
+[25] Labat mentions seeing this woman at Dominica, and gives the
+following account of her:--"This old savage woman is, I think,
+the oldest creature in the world, being more than a hundred years
+old. They say she had been very handsome, and on account of her
+beauty the English governor at St. Kitts kept her for a
+considerable time. She had a number of children, among which was
+one called _Ouverard_. [_Warner, it ought to be; but Pierre du
+Tertre is not very particular in his orthography of English
+names._] Pierre du Tertre speaks of him in his history; but this
+demi-savage was dead before I came to the West Indies. They
+always continue to call her Madam _Ouverard_. After the English
+sent her to Dominica upon the death of the governor, she was more
+respected for her old age than from being his mistress. Her
+property was rather extensive, and was entirely peopled by her
+children's children. This old woman was entirely naked, and had
+not two dozen hairs upon her head; her skin resembled old
+parchment completely dried up, as if baked. She was so crooked
+that I could not see her features except when she went to drink
+water. She had a good many teeth in her head, and her eyes were
+perfectly clear."
+
+[26] Some writers make it sixteen.
+
+[27] Dampier says St Lucia.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER V.
+
+
+
+  Governor Col. R. Williams--Biographical remarks--Towns of trade
+  appointed--Antigua divided into parishes--Sir Nathaniel Johnson
+  appointed captain-general and governor-in-chief--Colonel
+  Codrington--Remarks upon this family--Invasion of Antigua by a
+  French privateer--Attack upon Guadeloupe by the English--
+  Expedition to St. Christopher's--Gallant conduct of Colonel
+  Williams and Colonel Willoughby Byam--Sir Francis Wheeler's
+  expedition--Wilmot and Lillingston's expedition--Death of the
+  captain-general, General Codrington--Colonel John Yeamans,
+  lieutenant-governor--Arrival of Admiral Benbow.
+
+In 1675, Colonel Rowland Williams was appointed
+lieutenant-governor (or, as the phrase then was, deputy-governor)
+of Antigua. This gentleman was possessed of eminent
+qualifications, which honourably distinguished him among his
+contemporaries. He was alike conspicuous as a wise councillor and
+a skilful commander; whether in the senate or the field, he
+equally merited applause. The father of Colonel Williams (as will
+be seen in the genealogy of this family) was one of the earliest
+settlers in Antigua, and even in those times was famed for noble
+virtues--virtues which have descended from father to son, down to
+the present day, and centered themselves in the person of the
+Hon. Rowland E. Williams, the present possessor of "Claremont,"
+the family mansion.[28]
+
+During the administration of Colonel Rowland Williams as governor
+of Antigua, six towns were appointed as places of trade, instead
+of two, as was the former custom. These towns were Falmouth, St.
+John's, Bridge Town, Carlisle Road, Parham Landing Place, and
+Bermudian Valley. In these different towns all business was to be
+transacted as relates to shipping, &c.; and no vessel was allowed
+to unload or sell their cargo at any other place, under
+punishment of forfeiting their goods. This, however, did not
+debar any freeholder from disposing of his own personal property
+or merchandise at any place in the island he deemed proper.
+
+It does not appear at what particular period a secretary and a
+marshal were appointed; but in 1677 an act was passed relating
+unto such officers.
+
+In 1680, provisions were made for settling the militia, and for
+ensuring a better martial discipline throughout the island.
+
+Antigua was divided into parishes about 1681, which then
+consisted of five--namely, Falmouth, Rendezvous Bay, and part of
+Willoughby Bay, to be the parish of St. Paul's; the remaining
+part of Willoughby Bay, Nonsuch, and Belfast, to be the parish of
+St. Philip's; divisions of New and Old North Sound to be the
+parish of St. Peter's; the divisions of Pope's Head, Dickerson's
+Bay, St. John's, and Five Islands, to be the parish of St.
+John's; and the divisions of the Road and Bermudian Valley to be
+the parish of St. Mary's. Churches were also ordered to be
+erected, and all parochial charges to be raised from the
+inhabitants of each parish. The yearly salary of their ministers
+was 16,000lbs. of sugar or tobacco, which was paid to them on the
+24th day of June, being the feast of St. John the Baptist.
+
+The following year (1682) an expedition was despatched to act
+against the Indians of Dominica.
+
+His Majesty Charles II. having departed this life, Sir William
+Stapleton proclaimed his successor, James II. with great pomp, at
+Nevis. An old writer gives a long account of the ceremonies
+observed upon that day--of the gorgeous festival which succeeded,
+and the splendid attire of the governor; but as this work is
+strictly confined to Antigua, such detail will be superfluous.
+
+In 1684, during the administration of Sir William Stapleton,
+slaves were annexed to freeholds, and could be voted upon, the
+same as a freehold, or levied upon for distress. In illustration
+of this, a person possesses a family of slaves--say the mother
+and five or six children, the youngest in arms and drawing its
+daily nutriment from its parent; the owner of these slaves falls
+into difficulties--he owes a certain sum, and his creditor takes
+out an execution against him. The value of the negro woman
+covers, perhaps, the amount of debt, and accordingly she is
+seized, carried away, and sold, probably to a third or even a
+fourth person, and her baby and other children are severed from
+her, and she left alone. Oh! slavery, slavery, how dost thou
+debase the sons of men!
+
+Sir William Stapleton dying, King James appointed Sir Nathaniel
+Johnson, governor-in-chief, who continued to act as such until
+the first year of the reign of William and Mary, when he retired
+to America, and was succeeded in the government by Colonel
+Christopher Codrington in 1689.[29]
+
+Colonel Codrington was so indefatigable in planting and
+cultivating the sugar-cane in Antigua, that he has been termed
+the patron of the island. This gentleman removed from Barbados to
+Antigua in 1674; when he purchased a large quantity of land, and
+formed the first sugar estate upon the island, and, sending for
+his wife and children, constituted himself one of its earliest
+planters. The Codrington family is of old extraction, and many a
+brave warrior has sprang from that source, as British history
+will shew.[30]
+
+About the first year of Colonel Codrington's government, in 1689,
+the fortifications at Monk Hill were commenced; but they appear
+not to have been carried on with any degree of spirit until 1705.
+This year the crew of a French privateer landed at Five Islands'
+Bay, and burnt and plundered the surrounding country; and carried
+away with them several negroes, besides much spoil. The
+Antiguans, highly incensed at this invasion, placed a small force
+on board an armed vessel under command of Captain Walter
+Hamilton, and pursued the enemy. This plan succeeded, and they
+returned to Antigua with the privateer as a prize; on board of
+which were some Irishmen, who were hung as a warning to others.
+
+The English government was greatly annoyed at these repeated
+attacks upon her West Indian colonies; and William III. made it
+one of his complaints against the French king upon declaring war
+with that monarch. Supposing that, after this war was declared,
+the French would be more active in their incursions, the
+inhabitants of Antigua determined to keep better watch. Sir
+Timothy Thornhill arriving with troops, all military affairs were
+delegated to him; and by his orders, guards were stationed at all
+the bays, and a constant look-out kept. Still the Caribs and a
+few Frenchmen managed to effect a landing, by sailing up some of
+the creeks, and killed ten of the inhabitants, and plundered some
+provision grounds. It was thought proper to appoint some reward
+for soldiers acting valiantly in defence of the island; and to
+make some provision for the wounded, and allowance for the widows
+and children of the slain. If any white servant shewed deeds of
+valour, and could obtain a certificate of such from the hands of
+his officer, that servant was freed,[31] the country paying to
+his master a sum proportionate to his services. If wounded they
+were to receive medical attendance and maintenance free of
+charge; if disabled, to receive yearly 3000lbs. of sugar for
+life; and if killed, their widows were to have the same amount of
+sugar, and the children to be taken care of, and supported by the
+country. The owners of those slaves who fell in defence of the
+country, were also recompensed, by having 5000lbs. of sugar paid
+them from the public stock for every negro killed or mortally
+wounded, instead of having such slaves valued by arbitration, as
+was the plan from the year 1672. Regulations were also gone into
+by the legislature, for the establishing of courts of law, and
+settling due methods for the distribution of justice throughout
+the colony.
+
+About the middle of this year (1689) Colonel Hewetson, with a
+party of men, embarked on board a man of war, and sailed to
+attack Guadaloupe. They landed with but little opposition, and
+having obtained some plunder, and given the French a kind of
+_tit-for-tat_, returned in safety to Antigua. This was a very
+busy year for the Antiguans; for no sooner had Colonel Hewetson
+reached Antigua with his troops, from the late attack, than they
+raised 300 men, and sailed to the island of Marie Galante. Here
+they met with like success in the way of retaliation; beating the
+inhabitants, burning their town, and obtaining more plunder. From
+Marie Galante they proceeded to St. Martin's, where Fortune, that
+usually fickle goddess, did not forsake them; for they not only
+plundered the place and increased their spoils, but drove the
+French completely off the island. Upon their return, General
+Codrington (for the governor had arrived to this rank) sent three
+sloops, with eighty men, under the command of Captain Edward
+Thorn, to the island of Anguila, to bring from thence all the
+English who resided there; they having been very cruelly used by
+some Irishmen, whom the French had landed there, for that
+purpose, a year before.
+
+1690 was again ushered in by that demon--War. Louis, that
+ambitious, but admired monarch, encouraged his subjects to invade
+the English colonies, in the West Indies and America, while he
+assisted James, the abdicated sovereign, in his attempts upon
+England and Ireland. General Codrington was warmly attached to
+the reigning monarchs, William and Mary, and consequently
+endeavoured on all occasions to further their interest in the
+West Indies. No sooner had accounts arrived at Antigua of the
+battle of the Boyne, and William's victory over the French troops
+upon that eventful day, than the governor determined to strike a
+blow for the honour of England. Admiral Wright arriving with a
+strong squadron of men of war, General Codrington prevailed upon
+all the other Leeward Islands to raise forces to endeavour to
+retake St. Kitt's, which had fallen to the French king some time
+before, by the fortunes of war. Antigua, never behind the other
+islands in warlike deeds, raised a body of 400 (or, as some
+authors make it, 800) men, which were placed under the command of
+that gallant officer, Colonel Rowland Williams, and 200 gentlemen
+volunteers, under command of Colonel Willoughby Byam, who served
+as a body-guard to the governor-general, Christopher Codrington;
+and, by dint of prowess, their object was gained, for not only
+did they oblige the French to surrender the island, but,
+according to some authors, actually transported about eighteen
+hundred of them to St. Domingo and Martinique.[32] A general
+council and assembly was held this year, and an agent and
+commissioners appointed for the negotiation and management of the
+affairs of the Leeward Islands, as well as the raising and
+settling a proper fund for the defraying the expense of the same.
+Rewards were also given to the soldiers who acted valiantly in
+the late expedition.
+
+The following year (1691) passed in quietness. The French were
+too much taken up with their European engagements to have much
+force in the West Indies; and Admiral Wright, cruizing about
+these seas, intimidated the few privateers still lurking about.
+It was deemed necessary by the legislature this year to enact a
+law, obliging all the members of the assembly to serve in such
+capacity when elected.
+
+The year 1692 was chiefly passed in settling island business, and
+making laws to redress several grievances which were severely
+felt by the inhabitants. One of these was as follows: after the
+reduction of this island, and its restoration to the English in
+1667, a great many persons pretended to have a right to large
+portions of land, by virtue of grants prior to the war, but which
+they had failed to cultivate. The consequence of this was, that
+the country was rapidly going to ruin; and the only way to avert
+it was, by government granting these lands to more industrious
+persons, as an encouragement to them to settle. When, after a
+lapse of time, the former possessors found their barren and
+uncultivated lands turned into profitable estates, they came
+forward and claimed them as their own; and so annoying were these
+threatenings to those who had worked the change, that although
+they had spent both time and money, they preferred leaving the
+island, and seeking some other home. To rectify this, it was
+determined by the legislature this year, that all persons who
+possessed lands by grants from government should be confirmed in
+the same, providing they had held them for five years. Still,
+that justice might be equally imparted to all, if the former
+possessors put in their claim within two years, and it was
+allowed by a jury that they had a right to the same, they could
+demand the value of their lands as they were when they left them.
+A vestry was this year elected, churchwardens appointed, and a
+parish register ordered to be kept in each of the parishes in the
+island. In this register, all christenings, marriages, and
+burials were to be entered, under penalty of 5l. currency, the
+fee for which was 9d. currency each. An act was also passed for
+the settling of general councils and assemblies.
+
+The next year (1693) was celebrated for the endeavours of the
+Antiguans to destroy the remaining Caribs; and for this reason,
+great encouragement was given to those persons who fitted out
+privateers to destroy them and take their canoes. In the early
+part of the year, Sir Francis Wheeler arrived at Barbados, with
+an expected squadron of English men-of-war, intended for an
+attack upon the island of Martinique, when intelligence was
+immediately despatched to Antigua, in order that General
+Codrington might join him with the Antigua and other Leeward
+Island troops. In this expedition, Sir Francis Wheeler commanded
+the men-of-war, (on board of which were Colonel Foulks and
+Colonel Godwin's regiments of foot, and 200 recruits, under
+command of Colonel Lloyd,) and Colonel Foulks the land forces. On
+the 30th of March, the fleet left Barbados, having on board two
+Barbados' regiments, which, including the gentlemen-volunteers,
+consisted of about 1500 men, and arrived at Martinique on the 1st
+of April.
+
+The fleet anchored in the Cul de Sac Marine, on the south side of
+the island; and Sir Francis Wheeler, attended by Colonel Foulks
+and Colonel Lloyd, went in a boat to search for a good
+landing-place for the troops. Their movements were, however,
+watched by a party of French guards, one of whom fired a musket,
+the shot of which striking Sir Francis upon the breast,
+occasioned a severe contusion. The next morning, Colonel Foulks
+landed 1500 men without opposition; and during the day, the whole
+of the forces were gathered together on shore, where they
+commenced the work of destruction by burning the houses and
+sugar-works, the inhabitants fleeing for safety into the woods.
+
+In the course of the few following days, General Codrington
+joined the expedition with the Antigua and other Leeward Island
+forces, and Colonel Lloyd's regiment, when it was determined, in
+a council of war, to sail and attack St. Pierre, the principal
+town upon the island. Here, however, the English appear to have
+acted a very indifferent part; for, after destroying a few
+plantations, and standing some slight skirmishing with the
+French, they abandoned their plans of endeavouring to take the
+town; and, upon the plea of the troops being sickly, re-embarked
+their men, and left the island. Colonel Foulks, Colonel Godwin,
+Major Abrahall, with some of the other officers, died of their
+wounds on board the vessels; and the Antigua and other island
+troops returned to their respective colonies.
+
+Thus ended an expedition, from which had been expected great
+results. According to an early historian, if the regulars had
+done their duty, as the Antiguan and the other island troops did,
+the whole of the French sugar islands might have been
+dispossessed, for the English forces amounted to between 3000 and
+4000 men. The French were, however, very much alarmed, and many
+of "the richest inhabitants shipped themselves and their valuable
+effects for France, some of whom were intercepted by the
+English." Sir Francis Wheeler then steered for Boston, in
+America, intending to have proceeded against Quebec; but finding
+his arguments overruled by the Bostonians, he returned in disgust
+to England, with his vessels in a very shattered condition, and
+having lost half of his men.
+
+This officer was noted for his misfortunes, which could neither
+be attributed to want of courage nor want of judgment, but to
+circumstances over which he had no control. We have seen how
+unfortunate was his expedition to the West Indies; and although
+not altogether connected with this work, we may just glance at
+his after-fate. About 1694, he was appointed commander-in-chief
+of the Mediterranean squadron, with orders to take under his
+convoy the merchant ships trading to Turkey, Italy, and Spain;
+there to join the Spanish fleet in cruising about until the
+return of the Turkish ships, when he was to accompany them home.
+After receiving these orders, he sailed from the roads of St.
+Helens, off the Isle of Wight, and arrived in safety at Cadiz,
+where, leaving Rear-Admiral Hopson, he proceeded for the
+Mediterranean. In passing through the Bay of Gibraltar, he met
+with very bad weather under a lee-shore. The ground was so foul
+that there was no hold for an anchor; but as there was no other
+plan they could follow, they were obliged to drop them. Several
+of the ships were driven on shore, of which many were entirely
+lost. The Admiral's ship foundered at sea, and with the exception
+of two Moors, all perished in those tideless waters.
+
+In 1694, a general council and assembly was held at Antigua,
+when, among other business, it was deemed necessary to place a
+certain value upon all foreign coins in circulation throughout
+the Leeward Caribbee Islands. To avoid disputes in electing
+members to serve in these general councils and assemblies, it was
+proposed that in future the secretary should take the votes of
+the freeholders upon oath in their presence, and admit no vote
+but from a known freeholder of the respective island in person.
+But if, after these precautions, disputes should still occur, the
+legislature was to determine the cause.
+
+The year 1695 will be long remembered in English history as that
+of the siege of Namur; which action, glorious as it was, would
+not have been mentioned here, did not two gentlemen, well known
+in Antigua, make themselves conspicuous by their courage and
+noble bearing on that occasion. One of these distinguished
+characters was Christopher Codrington, Esq., son of General
+Codrington, the commander-in-chief, and afterwards governor
+himself; a gentleman not only celebrated for his bravery, where
+all were brave, but also as being the most accomplished person of
+his day. The other individual was Sir William Mathew, afterwards
+Captain-General of the Leeward Islands.
+
+While these warlike deeds were going on in Europe, a squadron had
+been sent to the West Indies to protect the trade and harass the
+enemy. This squadron was placed under the joint command of
+Captain Robert Wilmot and Colonel Lillingston, and consisted of
+about 1200 land forces, augmented by troops from Antigua, and
+some other of the West Indian islands. This expedition, like that
+of Sir Francis Wheeler's, proved unfortunate; the sea and land
+officers disagreed, and instead of acting with each other, they
+pursued opposite courses. Their first attempt was against St.
+Domingo; but instead of proceeding to take the capital, Captain
+Wilmot plundered the surrounding country for his own good; and
+although Colonel Lillingston remonstrated with him, he would not
+listen to reason. Finding the ill success of their endeavours,
+the West Indian troops determined to return to their respective
+homes: the Spaniards, who had joined them against their common
+enemy, the French, became disgusted, and withdrew; and the
+commanders themselves, disappointed of their expected captures,
+set sail for England. They lost one of their ships in the Gulf of
+Florida, and Captain Wilmot died on his passage. This year the
+Antiguans lost some of their merchant-ships, as did many of the
+other West India Islands, by their falling into the hands of the
+French privateers, who swarmed about the entrance of the English
+Channel.
+
+The following year passed in quietness in Antigua. The
+secretary's office was appointed as the place where all the
+island laws were to be lodged. Before this period, it appears
+that there was no particular place appointed to keep the public
+records; and consequently many valuable papers became mislaid or
+lost. This year, (1696,) the Hastings frigate was at Antigua, and
+sailed for London as convoy to a fleet of eleven ships, which
+were eleven weeks upon their voyage.
+
+In 1697, public pounds were erected in the several towns of
+Antigua, and imposts laid upon all liquors imported into the
+island. This had been hitherto a custom, but had expired some
+short time before.
+
+The year 1698 was a year of mourning to the Antiguans; their
+friend and patron, as well as governor, breathed his last sigh,
+and exchanged an earthly for a heavenly home. General Codrington
+was, as before remarked, the first person who planted the
+sugar-cane in Antigua: its chief productions before were indigo,
+ginger, and tobacco. He removed from Barbados (of which island he
+was a native) in 1674; and some authors make that year his
+appointment to the governor-generalship of the Leeward Islands,
+and that of Colonel Rowland Williams, deputy-governor of Antigua.
+This assertion is, however, evidently incorrect; for we have
+already seen, that Sir William Stapleton was acting as such at
+that period. The mistake must have arisen from General Codrington
+having removed to Antigua in that year.
+
+After the demise of General Codrington, the captain-general of
+the Leeward Islands, Colonel John Yeamans, a resident proprietor
+of Antigua, exercised the office of governor of the island.
+
+The Antiguans came to the resolution this year (1698) of
+appointing an agent for the island, who was to reside in London,
+and solicit the confirmation of such laws as should from time to
+time be made in Antigua, as well as to transact any other island
+business. The salary then given was 100l. sterling per annum, to
+commence from 1st January, 1689; but since the year 1800, it has
+been augmented. About this period, the notorious Captain Kidd[33]
+paid Antigua a visit; but finding the coast of North America
+would afford him a better harvest, he did not remain long.
+
+In 1699, the gallant Admiral Benbow arrived at Antigua with a
+squadron of men-of-war, having on board Colonel Collingwood's
+regiment, (or, more probably, Col. Whetham's regiment, known as
+the "Enniskillen," or 27th regiment of the line;) part of which
+was intended to be stationed upon the island, and the remainder
+to be sent to the other colonies within the government.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[28] For the Genealogy of the Williams family, see Appendix, No.
+7.
+
+[29] Sir Nathaniel Johnson was appointed, in 1704, Governor of
+Carolina.--Vide History of Carolina.
+
+[30] For further particulars of this family, vide Appendix, No.
+8.
+
+[31] The persons to whom these rewards were given, owed their
+residence in Antigua to the following cause:--To increase the
+white population, great encouragement was given to persons
+importing white protestant men-servants into the island, paying
+to the importer to much per head from the public treasury. These
+white servants were sold for a certain number of years, and at
+the end of that time they became free, and were incited to
+settle, by having small grants of land given to them. Every
+proprietor was obliged to have one of these white servants to so
+many slaves; and they were to be furnished with clothes and arms,
+and to serve in the militia. It was customary to sell them upon
+hogsheads, which I shall have further occasion to mention when I
+come to treat of the white inhabitants.
+
+[32] Extract from the London Gazette, No. 2602, published by
+authority, from Thursday, October 16th, to Monday, October 20th,
+1690, giving an account of the capture of St Christopher's, the
+forces for which service arrived in Frigate Bay, in that island,
+20th June; the French offered to surrender on the 12th July, and
+articles agreed to on the 14th July:--
+
+"Colonel Byam was dangerously wounded in the neck."
+
+Extract from "London Gazette," 4th to 8th September, 1690. No.
+2590:--
+
+                                           "Bermudas, July 24th.
+
+"On the 20th June, the English arrived at St. Christopher's,
+consisting of eleven men of war, besides fire-ships and tenders,
+and other vessels, under command of Captain Wright, who was
+himself in the Mary of 64 guns, and 450 men. These ships had on
+board 3000 land forces--viz., 700 English soldiers, commanded by
+Colonel Holt; 800 Nevis and Barbados soldiers, commanded by Sir
+Timothy Thornhill; 800 Antigua, commanded by Colonel Rowland
+Williams; 400 Montserrat men, commanded by Colonel Blackstone,
+and 200 gentlemen volunteers, commanded by Colonel Willoughby
+Byam, which served as a life guard to Colonel Codrington,
+governor of the Leeward Islands, and general on this expedition.
+The conduct of which forces was much commended in the second
+Gazette from 16th to 20th October."
+
+[33] The colonists of North America had, for the last few years,
+been greatly addicted to piracy: a practice which it behoved the
+English government to put an immediate stop to, if possible. A
+person of the name of Kidd, the owner of a small sloop, and who
+had been early inured to a maritime life, proposed, that if a
+vessel of thirty guns, well manned, was placed under his command,
+he would agree to suppress the pirates, and effectually clear
+those seas from such dangerous frequenters. After some delay, a
+vessel was equipped by private subscription, and Kidd appointed
+to the command; but instead of proceeding upon his mission to the
+American seas, he sailed for the East Indies, where he engaged in
+the unlawful traffic himself, captured some traders, and, after
+burning his own vessel, sailed in the largest of his prize ships
+for the Leeward Islands. After remaining there for a short
+period, he proceeded in his piratical career to the coast of
+North America, where, in his search after wealth, he perpetrated
+those revolting cruelties which have rendered his name infamous,
+and long caused the inhabitants of those colonies to chat around
+their winter's hearth of the deeds and fate of the redoubted
+Captain Kidd, the lawless rover of the seas.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+
+  Governor Colonel Christopher Codrington--Establishment of the
+  first market--Accession of Queen Anne--Arrival of Admiral
+  Benbow--Attack upon the island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction
+  with the Antiguan troops--Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam--
+  Arrival of Captain Hovenden Walker--Second attack upon
+  Guadaloupe--Colonel Codrington quits the government--His death
+  --Sir William Mathew--Hon. John Johnson.
+
+At the period of his father's death, Christopher Codrington,
+Esq., the eldest son of the preceding governor, was in Holland,
+with his sovereign and his army; but upon the news arriving of
+General Codrington's demise, William III. immediately appointed
+Christopher to succeed his late father as Captain-General and
+Commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, in which capacity he
+arrived at Antigua, in the year 1700.
+
+In the same year, regulations were framed by the legislature, to
+further increase the number of white inhabitants, and encourage
+the soldiers who had been lately disbanded, to settle in the
+island, by giving them grants of ten acres of land, and
+authorizing the treasurer to advance to each of them, as a loan,
+the sum of 3l., a barrel of beef, and a cask of flour. Such
+soldiers as were unprovided with grants were to be allowed 6d.
+per day, until the time they were put into possession; and those
+who chose to emigrate from the islands to leeward of Antigua,
+were allowed 12s. for their passage-money. All tavern-keepers,
+owners of sloops, &c., were also obliged to employ white men,
+under a penalty of 30s. for each offence.
+
+In 1702, the first market-place was established, cross streets
+laid out, and the town of St. John's otherwise improved. A clerk
+of the market was appointed, who was also to be the public
+whipper and crier; town-wardens were elected, whose duty was to
+assess houses and lands; and a cage, pillory, stocks,
+whipping-post, and ducking-stool,[34] put up at the public
+expense. Night-watches were also appointed, to have the same
+power as watchmen in London, and a watch-house built in a
+convenient spot. Many of the wharfs were also constructed, and
+other improvements made.
+
+William III. having died the 8th of the preceding March, Queen
+Anne, his successor, was proclaimed at Antigua, in June, 1702,
+with some pomp; as also at Nevis, where the captain-general was
+holding a general council and assembly. Punishments were also
+enacted this year for the offences of slaves, and for the better
+government of free negroes. If a slave struck a white person, and
+in any way hurt or disfigured him, such slave was to have _his
+nose slit_, or _any member cut off_, or to suffer death, at the
+discretion of a justice of peace. Any slaves running away from
+their owners for the space of three months, were also to suffer
+death, have a limb cut off, or be publicly whipped--the treasurer
+paying to the owner 18l. in case of death. If, in pursuit of a
+runaway slave, the parties killed him, they were not liable to
+prosecution.
+
+With regard to free negroes, and _mulattoes_, by which was meant
+all persons of colour, they were obliged to choose a master or a
+mistress to live with, unless they possessed land of their own;
+and if they dared to strike a white servant, they were to be
+severely whipped. No free negro could possess more than eight
+acres of land; nor could any minister marry such person to a
+slave, under a penalty of fifty pounds.
+
+The military affairs were also regulated. The island militia were
+to consist of infantry and carbineers, under one of which all the
+male white inhabitants, from the age of fourteen to sixty-five,
+were to be included. One day in every month was to be set apart
+for the troops to be exercised; and once in a year a grand
+rendezvous was to take place at Boyer's Pasture, in the division
+of North Sound, when prizes were to be distributed to those who
+made the best six shots at a target. The prizes consisted of six
+silver-hilted swords, with belts, valued at 6l. currency. Martial
+law was also ordained to be in full force at any period when
+there were fears of insurrections or invasions. Fines were also
+imposed for various offences, such as absence from parade, &c.
+Privates who could not raise the money, were, in default of
+paying such fines as they had incurred, to be picketed, or _tied
+neck and heels for an hour_.
+
+This year (1702) Admiral Benbow again visited Antigua, and war
+having broken out with France, the captain-general, Colonel
+Christopher Codrington, resolved, in conjunction with that brave
+officer, to make an attack upon Guadaloupe. The merchants of
+Antigua, who were then a numerous body, equipped several
+privateers to serve under the admiral's flag; and the
+captain-general, Colonel Codrington, raised a regiment of
+soldiers, which were placed under the command of Colonel Edward
+Byam. On the 7th March, the land and sea forces were abreast the
+island of Guadaloupe, from whence the French fired at them,
+killing one man, and wounding a boy on board the commodore's
+ship. The fleet laid off and on until the 10th of the same,
+waiting for the "Maidstone" man-of-war, with some other of his
+Majesty's vessels, from Maria Galante, when, upon their arrival,
+Admiral Benbow came to an anchor on the north-west side of the
+island. After burning some plantations along the coast, on the
+12th, Colonel Byam, with his regiment, and a detachment of 200
+men of Colonel Whetham's regiment, landed at "Les Petits
+Habitans," where Colonel Byam distinguished himself by his great
+bravery; and, with the united assistance of the regulars, obliged
+the French to retire. The English next attacked a town called
+"Bogliffe," which, after some resistance, they took, as also the
+Jacobin's church, on which the French had planted ten pieces of
+cannon. After many other successes, among which was taking the
+breast-work along the Jacobin river, the strongest fortifications
+the French possessed, the English proceeded to Basseterre, the
+capital; and this town they, no doubt, would have also taken, had
+it not been for the unhappy differences arising between the
+commanders, and which, combined with the illness of the troops,
+occasioned the English to withdraw from the island at a time when
+victory was almost sure.
+
+After quitting the island of Guadaloupe, the fleet proceeded for
+Antigua; but Admiral Benbow, hearing of the arrival of the French
+admiral with ten ships of the line in these latitudes, went in
+search of them. As it does not appear any of the Antiguan forces
+joined him, we will only briefly remark that, falling in with the
+squadron, a fight commenced, which lasted three days. The last
+twenty-four hours the admiral fought with his single ship, his
+other vessels having deserted him; when, although his leg was
+shattered by a chain-shot, and he had received several other
+wounds, he would not be carried from the deck of his ship, but
+continued fighting until the French were obliged to sheer off.
+
+Benbow was so displeased with the conduct of the captains of his
+different ships, that he determined to steer for Jamaica, and
+upon his arrival to call a court-martial. The most culpable of
+them suffered death, the others were punished in different ways,
+and the admiral himself took their conduct so much to heart, that
+vexation, co-operating with the pain of his wounds, caused his
+death in November of the same year.
+
+About this period (1703), the first sailing packet for the
+conveyance of letters arrived at Antigua. Queen Anne had been
+graciously pleased to establish this packet service for the
+furtherance of trade, as well as to keep up a more regular
+intercourse with the colonies, as may be seen from the annexed
+notification:--
+
+                                 "London, 11th February, 1702-3.
+
+"Whereas her Majesty, for the encouragement of trade and
+commerce, hath thought fit to appoint boats to convey letters and
+packets between Barbados, Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, St.
+Christopher's, and Jamaica in America,--this is to give notice
+that a mail will go from the general post-office, in London, on
+Thursday of this instant (February) for the above-mentioned
+islands, and henceforward on Thursday in every month; and her
+Majesty, pursuant to the statute made in the twelfth year of the
+reign K. Charles II., for establishing a post-office, hath
+directed and empowered the postmaster-general of England to take
+for the post of all such letters and packets that shall be
+conveyed by the said boats between London and any of the
+before-mentioned islands, the rates as follows:--
+                                                     s.  d.
+
+  For every letter not exceeding one sheet of paper, 0   9
+         do.           do.       two sheets   do.    1   6
+  For every packet weighing an ounce . .             2   8"
+
+This year (1703), his Excellency, Christopher Codrington, again
+entered the lists of battle. Sir George Rooke had despatched from
+England at the end of the former year Captain Hovenden Walker
+with six ships of the line and transports, having on board four
+regiments of soldiers for the Leeward Islands, which were to be
+landed at Antigua, and then distributed among the other colonies.
+Upon their arrival at Antigua, Colonel Codrington gave Captain
+Walker such information as determined him to alter his plans, and
+make an attack upon Guadaloupe; so, taking on board the governor
+and a "martial little band" under his command, they proceeded for
+that island. After having razed the fort, burnt the town, and
+ravaged the surrounding country, they re-embarked with
+precipitation, in consequence of a report that a body of 900
+French soldiers had arrived to the succour of the inhabitants.
+Colonel Codrington and his party returned to Antigua; and Captain
+Walker retired to Nevis with his squadron, where, it is said,
+they must have perished by famine had not Admiral Graydon
+fortunately put in there, on his way to Jamaica, and relieved
+them.
+
+Colonel Codrington was recalled from his government in the early
+part of 1704--for what reason I know not, unless it be his
+loyalty and attachment to his deceased sovereign, William III. He
+resided upon his "Betty's Hope" estate, in Antigua, for some
+years afterwards, as a private gentleman, but at length removed
+to Barbados, where he died in 1710; and, in 1716, his remains
+were exhumed, and conveyed to England, and buried in the chapel
+of All Souls', Oxford. Colonel Codrington added to his other
+accomplishments that of a poet--four of his poems being published
+in the _Mus� Anglican�_. He founded a college, by bequest, at
+Barbados, which still bears the name of "Codrington College;" and
+where, since the appointment of a bishop to this diocese, in
+1825, the clergymen who officiate in the West Indian churches,
+are, with the exception of two or three from the English
+universities, ordained.[35]
+
+In 1704, Queen Anne appointed Sir William Mathew, a native of St.
+Kitt's, (who had distinguished himself at the siege of Namur,)
+captain-general, who arrived at Antigua 14th July, the same year.
+His Excellency did not live much more than five months after his
+appointment, dying 4th December; but during that short time, he
+endeared himself to all classes by a kind and courteous
+behaviour, and his strict integrity and honourable actions.[36]
+Upon the decease of Sir William Mathew, the Hon. John Johnson was
+made commander-in-chief for a short time.[37] During his
+administration, measures were taken to provide for the safety of
+the wives and children of those persons who at any time might be
+engaged in fighting for this island, and also for the infirm and
+superannuated, by building small houses within the fortifications
+of Monk's Hill, where they could retire in times of actual
+warfare. This was a very necessary precaution, when the frequent
+landing of the French, attended by the Caribs, and the dreadful
+barbarities which they practised upon the unfortunate creatures
+who fell into their hands, is called to mind. And it was very
+naturally supposed that the men would fight better in the ranks,
+when they knew those who were near and dear to them were in
+comparative safety, than if obliged to leave them unprotected.
+These fortifications had been begun, at considerable expense, in
+the year 1687-8, and although a constant tax upon the country,
+had never been finished; but it was resolved this year to make no
+more delay, but carry on the works with vigour.
+
+This year (1705) a general council and assembly was held at
+Nevis, when an act was passed to regulate such meeting, and
+retain for each island its several laws. In future, the general
+assembly was to consist of five freeholders, elected from each
+respective island within the government. No member was to be sued
+or arrested for debt ten days before or after the sessions; and,
+while serving in general council and assembly, each member was to
+be paid 20s. per day, and their expenses allowed them for going
+from island to island.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[34] "A stool, in which scolds are tied, and _ducked_ under
+water."--Dr. Johnson.
+
+[35] For a genealogy of the Codrington family, see Appendix, No.
+9.
+
+[36] Vide Mathew pedigree, Appendix, No. 10.
+
+[37] This Hon. John Johnson appears to have crept into the
+government with nothing more than a _verbal_ commission from some
+great courtier; and it is said that, in order to gain the
+Antiguans over to his cause, he allowed them to frame and pass
+what acts they pleased. He was an officer in Colonel Thomas
+Whetham's regiment, (the Enniskillen, or 27th regiment of the
+line,) where he held the rank of brevet-colonel. About the year
+1706, after the government had devolved to the captain-general,
+Colonel Parke, Colonel Johnson had a fracas with a Mr. Poxton, a
+native of St Christopher's, which ended fatally to the
+ex-governor, and for which Mr. Poxton was tried for murder, but
+acquitted by a jury of his countrymen.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+
+  Governor Colonel Daniel Parke--His birth-place and parentage--
+  His actions at the battle of Holchet and Blenheim--His arrival
+  at Antigua--Dissensions with the Antiguans--Complaints against
+  him sent to England--Results of the applications at the court
+  of Queen Anne--Tyrannical behaviour of Colonel Parke--Events of
+  the 7th December, 1710--Death of Colonel Parke.
+
+The year 1706 is celebrated in the annals of Antigua as that in
+which that abominable and atrocious governor, Daniel Parke,
+arrived to blast for a time with his unhallowed breath this
+beautiful little island. Parke was an American of rather low
+birth, a tobacco-planter in the state of Virginia, but who
+succeeded in marrying a lady of good fortune, and of a
+respectable family in that province. As money was the only thing
+he cared for in this alliance, he contrived to secure that, and
+then left his wife a prey to sorrow and regret, for having
+sacrificed her peace for a handsome but unworthy man. After
+acting in this inhuman manner to a woman whose only fault was her
+love for him, Parke proceeded to one of the northern states,
+where he committed a crime at a gaming-table, which obliged him
+to fly to England to escape the punishment so justly due. Here he
+purchased an estate, situated near Whitchurch, county of Hants,
+of about 500l. a year, and got himself returned member for that
+borough. He was, however, expelled the House for bribery, and
+ordered to be prosecuted, but through the interference of the
+Earl of Pembroke, he eluded his trial. His next action was to
+form a _liaison_ with a lady, the wife of a captain in the
+Guards; and, to escape the vengeance of the incensed husband, he
+left England, and fled into Holland, where he entered into the
+army as a volunteer, under the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of
+Marlborough.
+
+The Duke of Marlborough appears to have been caught with Mr.
+Parke's insinuating manners and agreeable person, and made him
+one of his aides-de-camp at the battle of Hochet; but having had
+a quarrel with an officer in the Queen's Guards, Parke quitted
+the service a few days previous to the memorable battle of
+Blenheim. He still, however, remained within the precincts of the
+camp until the very day when that decisive action was fought; and
+when victory was about to be declared for the allied army, he
+presented himself before Marlborough, and requested that he might
+be the bearer of a line or two to acquaint the Queen of the
+glorious conquest likely to be achieved. The brave General reined
+up his panting war-horse, and with a heart bounding with
+exultation, and a face flushed with expected success, wrote, with
+a lead pencil, the following brief and soldier-like billet to his
+duchess:--
+
+                                                August 13, 1704.
+
+"I have not time to say more, than to beg of you to present my
+duty to the Queen, and let her majesty know that her army has had
+a glorious victory. Monsieur Tallard and two other generals are
+in my court, and I am following the rest. The bearer, my
+aide-de-camp, Colonel Parke, will give her majesty an account of
+what has passed; I shall do it in a day or two, by another, more
+at large.
+
+                                                  "Marlborough."
+
+At the English court, Colonel Parke gained the patronage of
+Sarah, the haughty but fascinating Duchess of Marlborough;
+through whose interest he became such a favourite with Queen
+Anne, that she presented him with her picture, richly set in
+diamonds, a purse of one thousand guineas, and afterwards made
+him governor and captain-general of Antigua and the rest of the
+Leeward Islands; where he arrived 6th July, 1706, in the squadron
+commanded by Capt. Kerr, and where he gave full scope to his
+licentious disposition.
+
+Upon the first arrival of Colonel Parke, the assembly voted him
+1000l. a year for house-rent, and great satisfaction was
+expressed at his appointment. It was not long, however, before
+this fair prospect of colonial happiness changed; and the
+governor, by his arbitrary behaviour, forfeited all claims to the
+good feeling and respect of the inhabitants. One of the earliest
+offences Colonel Parke gave the Antiguans, was his making a low
+man he brought to the island with him a member of the assembly.
+Being a vulgar man, he delighted in vulgar associates; and
+becoming acquainted with a private named Ayon, belonging to a
+regiment of foot stationed in Antigua, he prevailed upon the
+governor to appoint him provost- marshal. To the remonstrance of
+the Antiguans against this proceeding, Parke replied, he should
+make whom he chose provost-marshal; and that he would never
+appoint any person to that office who did not agree to act
+exactly as he wished, as well as empannel such juries as he
+should direct.
+
+The next act of the governor gave equal displeasure. This was
+calling upon the Codrington family to shew their right to the
+Island of Barbuda,[38] (which had been granted to General
+Codrington by William III.;) and the Antiguans not only felt
+interested in the affairs of him who had been their friend and
+governor, but they supposed Parke would also be calling upon them
+to shew their claim to their estates--an indignity which they
+felt no inclination to put up with.
+
+Another crime of huge magnitude was the seduction of Mrs.
+Chester, the wife of Edward Chester, Esq., one of the most
+opulent of the Antiguan merchants, and a member of the house of
+assembly. Not content with injuring this gentleman in the deepest
+manner by thus robbing him of the affections of his wife, Colonel
+Parke, in his office of governor, proceeded to offer Mr. Chester
+every insult which a little mind was capable of. Upon one
+occasion, the governor had all his cocoa and other merchandise
+seized, on an unfounded suspicion of its being illegally gained;
+and then, supposing that all these several aggravations would
+cause him to be justly disliked, he (Colonel Parke) accused Mr.
+Chester of joining with other disaffected parties, in endeavours
+against his government; and, upon the plea of doing it for the
+establishment of the public peace, he broke into Mr. Chester's
+house one evening, when that gentleman was entertaining a few of
+his friends, who were obnoxious to the governor--and, by the
+assistance of some of his armed sycophants, among whom was the
+provost-marshal, dragged Mr. Chester and his friends to prison.
+In order to give some face to his proceedings, Colonel Parke
+accused other gentlemen of joining in this pretended
+insurrection, and, accordingly, he sent some of his brutal
+partisans to an estate called "Denbows," with orders to take into
+custody Mr. Ffrye and Mr. Cockran, (members of the assembly,) and
+bring them to town to stand their trial upon that charge. While
+the magistrates were taking depositions in this case, Sergeant
+Bowes, a creature of the governor, beat Captain Kallabane (one of
+the witnesses for the defendant) in the open court. For this
+offence the sergeant was broke by his colonel, and ordered to be
+whipped; but when this circumstance came to the ears of the
+governor, he immediately restored Bowes to his rank of sergeant,
+and protected him from all further punishment.
+
+Another source of dissatisfaction, upon the part of the assembly,
+arose from the circumstance of the governor taking the soldiers
+off duty to watch his private property. The following extract,
+taken from a message addressed to his excellency from the members
+of the house of assembly, relates to this subject:--"We always
+conceived her Majesty's troops were sent to do duty on our
+_standing guards_, and not to be altogether employed in guarding
+your excellency's person, your several buildings, your lumber,
+your heaps of bricks, mortar, and pantiles."
+
+It must not be supposed that these were the only complaints
+alleged against Colonel Parke. His whole conduct, both in public
+and private life, was arbitrary in the extreme; and so
+supercilious was his treatment of the magnates of the island,
+that before he had held the government for twelve months,
+articles of impeachment were prepared to be forwarded to England.
+
+In 1707, a petition was drawn up and signed by eighty of the
+principal inhabitants, praying for his recall; a sum of money
+raised in order to defray the expenses of sending Mr. Nevin to
+England, to lay their grievances before her Majesty and council;
+and letters were written to Richard Cary, Esq., the colonial
+agent, calling upon that gentleman to assist them in their
+designs.
+
+While these measures were pursued by the disaffected party, the
+governor, who was not ignorant of these cabals against him, lost
+nothing of his arrogance of manner, which so incensed his
+adversaries, that at length an attempt was made upon his life. As
+he was riding along the high road, leading from St. John's to
+English Harbour, a negro, named "Sandy," fired at him from a
+piece of canes belonging to the plantation of the Honourable Otto
+Baijer,[39] and dangerously wounded him, of which deed Colonel
+Parke accused Mr. Jacob Morgan and some of the other members of
+the assembly, with being the instigators.
+
+About this time, Colonel Parke thought proper to accuse Barry
+Tankard, Esq., (a proprietor of sugar estates in Antigua, and an
+intimate friend of Colonel Codrington,) of caballing against his
+government; and accordingly he despatched his emissaries to the
+estate of that gentleman, with orders to seize his person, and
+bring him into town. Upon their arrival at Mr. Tankard's house,
+they were informed of his absence from home; but doubting the
+truth of this information, they broke open the door of Mrs.
+Tankard's chamber, (who was confined to her bed from severe
+indisposition,) and so alarmed that lady, that for some time her
+life was in danger. This arbitrary behaviour on the part of the
+governor led Barry Tankard to resent it, by calling his
+excellency out in a duel; but Colonel Parke, considering it
+beneath the dignity of the queen's representative to accept the
+challenge of a private gentleman, the matter ended.
+
+While these dissensions were going on in Antigua between the
+governor on the one side, and the members of the assembly and the
+principal inhabitants on the other, Mr. Nevin and Mr. Cary were
+using their best endeavours to get a favourable answer to their
+complaints from the home government. At length, after many
+delays, Mr. Nevin returned to Antigua, bringing with him the
+queen's letter, directing that witnesses should be examined to
+prove the several articles of impeachment sent home against the
+governor, as well as his excellency's answers to the same. "The
+depositions and answers were sworn before Edward Byam, Esq., one
+of the council, and Nathaniel Crump, Esq., speaker of the house
+of assembly, and were ordered to be sealed with the broad seal of
+the island, and forwarded immediately to England." The governor,
+however, refusing to seal the affidavits of the complainants,
+upon the plea that his own answers were not ready, from the
+delays of the justices before whom they were sworn, his opponents
+were obliged to use another seal, and then despatch them, under
+the care of Mr. Nevin, to England.
+
+During the year 1709, Queen Anne recalled Colonel Parke from his
+government, to the great joy of the Antiguans. To this command
+the infatuated man, however, would pay no attention; and,
+exasperated by the triumphant looks of his accusers, which they
+could not, or would not, conceal, he proceeded to measures which
+could be only deemed those of a maddened despot.
+
+The year 1710 was ushered in with no better feeling between the
+governor and the members of the legislature. One of their first
+causes of complaint alleged against his excellency arose from the
+following circumstance:--
+
+It had ever been the privilege of the house of assembly to choose
+their own "clerk;" but during this despotic administration, the
+governor overlooked this, and wished to appoint to that office a
+friend of his own--a Mr. Hinton.[40]
+
+This encroachment upon the assembly's privileges gave rise to a
+great deal of ill feeling, and many acrimonious messages passed
+between his excellency and the members of that body. The
+following paragraph, copied from one of the governor's speeches,
+alludes to this subject:--
+
+"If you still persist that it is your undoubted privilege to
+choose your 'clerk,' and will do no business until that be
+yielded to you, you certainly will have the 'Lords' Committee'
+opinion. It is an undutiful attempt upon her majesty's
+prerogative; and I do assure you, gentlemen, if the queen does
+not appoint any other before I go, I will leave you time enough
+to raise money during this crop to pay off all the public
+debt!"[41]
+
+This unhandsome taunt of the governor's was deeply felt, and
+resented by the "house," who, in reply to it, remarks--
+
+"We cannot but observe how severe and bitter your excellency
+reflects upon, and reproaches our country with, the not paying
+its debt, but compounding the same. We well remember, when the
+country paid your excellency 1000l. in sugar, at 12s. 6d., your
+excellency sold that very sugar for 18s.; so that we hope your
+excellency has but little reason to complain of the public
+compounding their debt."
+
+And then, in reference to a recommendation of the governor's to
+enlarge the provision for the clergymen, they go on to mention--
+
+"Your excellency next recommends to provide a better maintenance
+for the clergy. They are already allowed 100l.; but as we are a
+people so much in debt, as your excellency observes, it cannot be
+expected, during these troublesome times, for us to advance their
+salaries, especially such scandalous persons as too many of the
+present clergy are."
+
+This was only the third meeting of the legislature since the
+election, after a recess of three years; although, from the
+unsettled condition of the West Indies, (arising from the state
+of affairs in Europe, where Marlborough, at the head of the
+British forces, was engaged in frequent skirmishes with the
+French,) the Antiguans were in momentary expectation of an
+invasion. After being prorogued from the 18th of November to the
+27th, (1710,) the legislature again met, but without any better
+feeling between the governor and the members of the assembly. A
+fresh cause of dispute arose, from his excellency having caused a
+Mr. Hill to be sworn in as clerk of the assembly, (in place of
+his former favourite, Mr. Hinton,) but whom the members would not
+recognise; and after a great deal of altercation upon the
+subject, that body addressed the following to the governor:--
+
+"If your excellency's resentment so far prevails as to despise
+these our propositions, and that the public affairs must with us
+still suffer, as unworthy your regard and consideration, we do
+then, as the only and last expedient, humbly propose your
+excellency's visiting some other island of the government;
+thereby to afford us the opportunity and means, in conjunction
+with the lieutenant-governor and council, to provide for the
+public security, to heal our divisions, restore discipline, and
+our broken constitution, after the best manner we can. And we are
+unanimously of opinion, that in case your excellency rejects this
+our humble motion, and will not surcease such administration, as
+afore-mentioned, (which is so very opposite to the nature of our
+constitution, to the opinion of the lieutenant-governor, the
+council, as well as this house, and to the sense of the
+inhabitants in general,) we shall be under the unhappy necessity
+of withdrawing our obedience from you as chief governor, which,
+by your dispensing with her majesty's positive command for
+leaving the government, we shall, in duty to her and justice to
+ourselves, (which we ought long since to have done;) and that
+this her colony, our persons and estates, may no longer be
+exposed to such unhappy conduct and administration, which seems
+entirely--we must say, foully--devoted to the ruin and
+destruction of all."[42]
+
+After receiving this message, the unhappy, infatuated governor
+sent the following to the house:--
+
+"Gentlemen,--You are adjourned until Thursday, the 7th of
+December, then to give myself and council a meeting at the town
+of St. John's, by eight of the clock in the morning.
+
+                       "By command," &c.
+
+Alas, that very morning, the sun arose for the last time to him!
+and by a fearful and unhallowed death, he was sent with all his
+sins upon his head, to render in an account of his stewardship.
+
+The cause which led to this melancholy event was this:--Worn out
+with the proceedings of Colonel Parke, and looking upon him as an
+usurper of the government, the Antiguans threw off all restraint;
+and as the last remedy, determined to arm against, and force him
+to quit the island.
+
+Accordingly, upon the morning of the 7th December, 1710, a large
+body of men, in number about 500, proceeded to Government House,
+in two parties--the one headed by Mr. Piggot, then speaker of the
+house of assembly; the other, by Captain Painter, another member
+of that body. Colonel Parke, who was not ignorant of these
+proceedings against him, had quartered in Government House, some
+time before, the soldiers stationed in the capital; and who,
+along with many of his private friends, (among whom was Mr.
+French, his historian,) had made arrangements for resisting any
+attack upon the governor.
+
+Upon the approach of the armed party, Colonel Parke sent the
+provost-marshal (the man whose appointment to that office had
+given the Antiguans such offence) with a proclamation, ordering
+them to disperse immediately. This they refused to do; but in
+order, if possible, to save an effusion of blood, they despatched
+Nathaniel Crump, Esq., (the former speaker of the assembly,) and
+George Gamble, one of the council, to the governor, desiring him,
+in the name of the inhabitants, to discharge his guards, and quit
+the government, without any further contest. Colonel Parke
+returned for answer, "that neither threats nor fear of death
+should make him do so; for the queen had intrusted him with it."
+Through the delegates, Mr. Crump and Mr. Gamble, he bid the
+assembly "sit at Parham, if they were afraid of the troops at St.
+John's," but consented at the same time to dismiss the soldiers,
+if six of the principal inhabitants would remain with him as
+hostages. As the negotiators considered the proposal of the
+governor's to be far preferable to commencing hostilities, they
+agreed to be two of the hostages, and endeavour by their
+influence to obtain four more from among the assembled multitude.
+Many of their party, upon hearing this proposition of the
+governor's, agreed with them in their opinions, and laid down
+their arms; but the majority of the people, fearful of any
+agreement made with the governor, and thinking that delays might
+induce others of the group to withdraw also, determined to
+commence the attack, and endeavour to secure the person of the
+governor. The two companies, headed by Captain Piggot and Captain
+Painter, immediately drew up before Government House, which they
+saluted with a warm discharge of musketry. This was returned by
+the governor's party; volley succeeded volley from within and
+without; the balls whistled hotly around; until at length the
+assailants burst open the doors, and rushed into the dwelling.
+Captain Piggot fell by the hand of Colonel Parke, at the
+commencement of the affray, although it was the belief of many
+that Ayon, the provost-marshal and _ci-devant_ foot-soldier, came
+behind him and shot him in the back. After some deaths on both
+sides, Colonel Parke, who had retired into his bedroom, received
+a shot in his thigh, which, breaking the bone, disabled him from
+further retreating, and the people rushing upon him, literally
+tore him to pieces while alive. They afterwards burnt down
+Government House, the ruins of which remain to this day a memento
+of his dreadful crimes and fearful punishment. Colonel Parke was
+dragged into the streets by some of his adversaries, where he
+remained for some time, still sensible, but suffering agonies
+impossible to describe, until at length his mutilated body was
+carried to the house of a person named Wright, who lived near to
+the spot, where he shortly expired. His body was deposited in the
+vault of the old church; but so detested was his memory, that the
+people broke down the pew which had been appropriated for him and
+his predecessors.
+
+Some writers maintain that only the _common people_ were
+concerned in the last act of this tragedy; that those of the
+higher rank proceeded to the house of John Yeamans, the
+lieutenant-governor, and quietly laid down their arms. Mr.
+French, the historian of Colonel Parke, writes, however, very
+differently upon this part of the subject; but it ought to be
+taken into consideration, that he was a particular friend of
+Colonel Parke, and consequently might give a higher colouring to
+the melancholy picture. He says, that when Colonel Parke lay in
+the street suffering the pangs of a dismembered body, the members
+of the house of assembly stood round reviling and insulting him
+in his last agonies; that among the number were Andrew Murray,
+Francis Carlisle, Mr. Tomlinson, and Captain Painter. I cannot
+believe this assertion. Although Parke was their common foe,
+still they must have been possessed of those feelings of honour,
+if not humanity, which would forbid them to triumph over a dying
+enemy. Mr. French goes on to state, that it was Colonel Byam who
+was most active in convening the inhabitants, and appointing a
+certain day for them to come into town well armed. This, too, has
+been contradicted. There were not many clergymen then upon the
+island; but among their number, Mr. James Field, rector of St.
+John's, took the part of the people; and Mr. Baxter, rector of
+Parham, that of Colonel Parke.
+
+All writers upon the West Indies mention the crimes and fate of
+Parke; and consequently I am obliged to follow in the wake, or
+else I should have buried his errors--or, more properly speaking,
+his vices--in oblivion.[43]
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[38] Barbuda is a small island, about twenty miles broad, and
+lies twenty-six miles to the north of Antigua. It has belonged to
+the Codrington family from about the year 1691, when William III.
+granted it to General Codrington, then governor-general of the
+Leeward Islands. It raises a great number of horned cattle,
+ponies, donkeys, &c., and its shores are very prolific in turtle
+and various kinds of fish; while its beach is strewed with many
+beautiful shells. Deer, also, range amid its sylvan glades; and
+their flesh occasionally affords another dish at a West Indian
+dinner. The chief emoluments arising from this island, however,
+are the number of wrecks; three or four sometimes occurring in a
+year. The reason of these frequent maritime disasters is, that
+the island lies so low, and is generally encompassed with fogs,
+that vessels are upon the reefs (by which it is almost entirely
+surrounded) before they are aware. It was upon one of this chain
+of reefs, that H. M. S. Woolwich was wrecked.
+
+Barbuda contains about 1500 inhabitants, of which the greater
+part are employed as huntsmen and fishermen: the former make use
+of the lazo to catch the wild horses, &c.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[39] This spot is now appropriated for the Wesleyan
+burial-ground.
+
+[40] The following is an authentic copy of Mr. Hinton's
+commission and warrant, as drawn out in Colonel Parke's own
+handwriting:--
+
+  "By his Excellency Daniel Parke, Esq., Captain-General and
+    Governor-in-Chief in and over all her Majesty's Leeward
+    Caribbee Islands in Antigua.
+
+"I do hereby authorize and appoint you, Gabriel Hinton, of the
+said island aforesaid, to be clerk to the assembly of this
+island, and which is this day appointed to meet; and to receive
+all fees, proffitts, and perquisites thereto belonging, for which
+this shall be your sufficient warrant and commission.
+
+"Given under my hand and seal this twenty-second day of May,
+1710.
+
+                                        (Signed) "Daniel Parke."
+
+[41] At this period, the island had fallen considerably in debt;
+and the legislature not having met for some time, from the
+unhappy differences between them and the governor, they had no
+opportunity of relieving themselves from their burdens; which
+difficulties were pleasing to Colonel Parke, in the hopes of
+their being compelled to make a general compromise.
+
+[42] It may be well to remark, that any peculiarities in the
+diction of the foregoing extracts must be attributed to the time
+in which they were written: they having been copied _verbatim_.
+
+For a list of the members of the house of assembly at this time,
+see Appendix, No. 11.
+
+[43] The last will of Governor Parke will be found in Appendix,
+No. 12.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+
+  Governor Walter Hamilton--Walter Douglas's Disturbances--
+  Complaints against him sent to England--Queen Anne recalls him,
+  and reappoints Walter Hamilton--Lord Viscount Lowther--John
+  Hart--Lord Londonderry--Lord Forbes--Colonel William Crosbie.
+
+After the death of Colonel Parke, the government, of course,
+devolved upon the lieutenant-governor of Antigua, John Yeamans,
+until such time as despatches could be forwarded to Nevis, where
+General Hamilton, who was next in command to the late
+captain-general, (and who had married the widow of Sir William
+Stapleton, a former governor,) was residing. Four of the members
+of the legislature were, accordingly, sent to General Walter
+Hamilton, advising him of the death of Colonel Parke, and
+inviting him to come to Antigua in order to assume the chief
+command. General Hamilton received the party with great urbanity
+and kindness, and accompanied them back to Antigua, where he took
+up his residence, for the time being, with Dr. Mackinnon, one of
+the actors in the late affray.[44]
+
+Upon the intelligence of Colonel Parke's death reaching England,
+Queen Anne was very much incensed against the inhabitants of
+Antigua; but, after hearing the catalogue of Parke's crimes, and
+in order to prevent any further effusion of blood, her majesty
+was graciously pleased to send a general pardon to all that were
+concerned in that transaction.
+
+But although the queen thought proper to extend her clemency to
+the Antiguans, she made some alteration in the affairs of the
+Leeward Island government. General Walter Hamilton was recalled,
+and General Walter Douglas appointed in his room; and John
+Yeamans was removed from the situation of lieutenant-governor of
+Antigua, and that appointment conferred upon Colonel Edward Byam.
+
+During the period General Douglas administered the government, he
+received instructions from England to see an act put into
+execution, which had been passed in the time of Christopher
+Codrington the younger, respecting the ascertainment of the value
+of current coin.
+
+The 24th of June, 1712, Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker again visited
+Antigua with a fleet of seven ships under his command. Soon after
+his departure, M. Copard, the French admiral, with a fleet of
+eight ships and seventeen sloops of war, manned with about 5000
+men, made an attack upon the island; but we find, from despatches
+sent to England by the governor, General Douglas, their attempts
+at landing were frustrated.
+
+General Douglas had scarcely been two years governor before
+complaints against him were also despatched to England, as well
+as a petition from the inhabitants, praying the queen to recall
+him, in which petition their late governor-general, Walter
+Hamilton, joined. General Douglas had made himself so obnoxious,
+that another rebellion had almost occurred. One of his measures
+was to retain certain duties, which ought to have been paid into
+the treasury, (such as duties upon wines and liquors, &c.), for
+his own particular use. He also persecuted General Hamilton, and
+suspended him from all offices he held in the island; and upon
+that gentleman repairing to England to transact some private
+business, Colonel Douglas endeavoured to seize Dr. Mackinnon and
+Chief-Justice Watkins for their proceedings in the affair of
+Colonel Parke, as well as on the plea of another intended
+rebellion. These gentlemen, however, contrived to escape to
+England, where, from advices received from Governor Douglas, they
+were afterwards seized and committed to prison; but, pleading the
+general pardon which her majesty had issued, they were discharged
+without trial, although Ensign Smith, one of the asserted
+culprits, lay in Newgate for some months.
+
+While these rancorous dissensions were going on between the
+governor and the inhabitants, orders were received for him to
+return to England; and, to the joy of the Antiguans, his majesty
+George I. re-appointed General Walter Hamilton to the government
+in 1715. The island was now pretty quiet; the French keeping to
+their own colonies without troubling their neighbours. The
+Antiguans, however, were still very cautious of them; and the few
+persons of that nation who, after the termination of the war,
+came to reside at Antigua, were very coldly received. This year
+(1715) the court of chancery was amended. Hitherto it was held by
+one person, which caused delays, besides other inconveniences: so
+that it was resolved in future it should consist of the governor,
+and not less than five members of the council.
+
+Previous to this period, there was also much difficulty in
+recovering minor debts, owing to the want of good laws, which
+occasioned so much inconvenience to the merchants of Antigua that
+they found it necessary this year (1715) to draw up a petition,
+signed by twenty-six of the most influential members of their
+body, praying for a better settling of the island courts. In
+1711, the attorney-general, Thomas Bretton, Esq., had drawn up an
+act "for establishing a court of queen's bench and common pleas,
+and for the better regulating and settling due methods for the
+administration of justice," with which the council and assembly
+were so well pleased, that they presented him with one hundred
+and forty pounds currency; but which act was so marred in the
+passing of it, that they themselves found it necessary to incur
+further expense by having another drawn up. As, however, this did
+not appear to have the desired effect, in 1715, (after receiving
+the petition from the merchants,) further and more effective
+measures were taken for settling law courts, and limiting a time
+for issuing executions out of the court of chancery.
+
+In 1716, fresh regulations were made respecting the importation
+of white servants. Every owner of slaves, to the number of
+fifteen, was obliged to find a white man to serve in the militia;
+and for every twenty slaves, above fifteen, they were obliged to
+find another white servant. Importers of white Protestant
+servants could demand of the treasurer of the island eighteen
+pounds per head if not sold in twenty days, and further obliged
+the treasurer to receive such servant until sold. The general
+term of servitude was seven years, at the end of which period
+their master was to give them fifty shillings, and 400 pounds of
+sugar or tobacco, with a certificate of their being free. If one
+of these white servants married a free person without the consent
+of their master, that free person was to be fined 100l.; and if
+one servant entertained another for more than twenty-four hours
+at one time, the person so offending was to be publicly whipped,
+or serve the injured party three months; or if the entertainer
+was free, he was to forfeit 20l.
+
+About this time, Governor Hamilton sent a party of settlers,
+under command of a Mr. Howell, from Antigua and the different
+Leeward Islands, to plant a colony upon Crab Island, a small
+island lying between Santa Cruz and Porto Rico.
+
+In the year 1699, the Scottish or Darien Company fitted out two
+large ships with a cargo of articles for traffic, and arms and
+ammunition, intending to form a settlement in America. While on
+their passage, they resolved to call in at Crab Island, and leave
+some of their party there; but upon their arrival, finding a
+large tent erected on the beach, with Danish colours flying, and
+not wishing to have any dispute, they left the island to the
+Danes, and proceeded to the Isthmus of Darien. The Danes having
+given up the colony, the English thought it a good time to put in
+a claim, and accordingly, as before remarked, Governor Hamilton
+sent a party to colonize it.
+
+Improvements were made about this time in the erection of mills
+for the purpose of grinding the sugar cane, and also in the art
+of sugar-boiling, which the Antiguans at that day appear to have
+been deficient in. Oldmixon, speaking of the sugar made in
+Antigua, says,--"It is so black and coarse, that no art could
+fine it; and, as if our sugar bakers in England scorned to put
+dirt in their coppers, it was generally shipped off to Holland
+and Hamburg, where it was sold for 16s., when any other brought
+from 18s. to 19s. per hundred."
+
+In 1620, Lord Viscount Lowther was appointed to the government of
+the Leeward West India Islands, but his appointment was
+afterwards cancelled; and, in 1721, George I. appointed John
+Hart, Esq., former governor of Maryland, to be commander-in-chief
+of the Leeward Islands, who arrived at Antigua about the middle
+of the year. About this time gambling raged to a great extent in
+Antigua, and it was thought necessary to adopt some measures to
+suppress it. It was therefore ordained, in 1723, that, if any
+person won more than seven pounds at one sitting, or within
+twenty-four hours from the time they first commenced playing,
+they were to forfeit treble the value, half of which was to be
+paid into treasury for the purpose of building and repairing
+forts, &c., and the other half to go to the loser. It is strange
+that, much about the same time, this vice was very prevalent in
+England. Indeed, profligacy of all kinds had increased in that
+kingdom to an alarming extent. This was supposed to have arisen
+from the infatuation of the South Sea scheme, which, intoxicating
+the minds of the people with the prospect of imaginary wealth,
+led them into every excess. If any of the Antiguans had joined in
+this infatuation, I am unable to say. I was led into the mention
+of it from the fact of both countries being, at the same period,
+subject to the same kind of vice.
+
+For the last few years the inhabitants of Antigua had been very
+much harassed by a gang of runaway slaves, from various estates,
+who had taken up their abode in some of the mountains and rocky
+parts of the island, and who were in the practice of issuing out
+at night, and committing many and great depredations. The leaders
+of this gang of vagrants were three men, of the name of Africa,
+Papa Will, and Sharper; and, to insure their capture, a reward of
+twenty pounds was offered to any person who should place either
+of them, dead or alive, in the hands of the provost-marshal. If
+any one killed a slave who had been absent from their owner three
+months, while in pursuit of them, he was entitled to the sum of
+three pounds; and when such slave was taken alive, the reward was
+doubled, the owner of any slave so killed being paid his or her
+value from the treasury. If a slave concealed, afforded
+nourishment to, or comforted a runaway, he was to be publicly
+whipped on the bare back with any number of stripes the justice
+of the peace thought proper to order; and if any free person so
+offended, such freeman was to be fined not less than ten pounds
+for the first offence. No person was allowed to purchase goods of
+a slave, under a penalty of thirty pounds for the first offence,
+except such things as pigs, goats, fowls, fish, or ground
+provision, which slaves were allowed to sell; but ginger and
+cotton ranked among the prohibitory articles. For the better
+government of this sable race, it was thought proper by those in
+power to restrict their diversions, and publish a decree, that
+all owners of slaves should allow them three days at Christmas
+for play-days, _and no more_, under a penalty of twenty pounds.
+Many other regulations were made, which appear at this day very
+harsh--such as not allowing slaves to plant cotton, forbidding
+them to assemble in parties of more than ten, punished for
+carrying any kind of weapon, unless in company of a white person,
+&c.; but, at the same time, it was enacted that if any cruelly
+disposed person hurt, or killed a slave, they were liable to the
+same punishment as if the victim had been free; thus setting a
+bright example to the other island, where killing a slave was
+looked upon, in law, as a mere trifle.
+
+In 1725, the parish of St. Peter's was divided into two, making
+Antigua to consist of six parishes, instead of five; the
+separated half of St. Peter's being called St. George. The reason
+of this division was the great extent of the parish, which,
+having only one church and one chapel of ease in it, and those at
+a considerable distance, the parishioners had not an opportunity
+of attending divine worship every week. Nothing of much
+importance occurred during the next two years, except that the
+assembly of Antigua returned thanks to Captain Arthur Delgarno,
+commander of H.M.S. South Sea Castle, for his indefatigable
+exertions in these seas, in keeping away the enemy's ships, and
+protecting the trade of the island: they also voted two hundred
+guineas to purchase a sword to present to the gallant commander,
+as a token of respect. It was by the suggestions of this Captain
+Delgarno, and Captain Cooper, of H.M.S. Lyon, in 1725, that the
+spacious dockyard at English Harbour was first erected.
+
+George I. dying in the month of June, 1727, his son succeeded to
+the vacant throne, under the title of George II. Upon the
+intelligence reaching the ears of the Antiguans, he was
+proclaimed at Antigua with great pomp. An ox was roasted whole,
+and three hogsheads of beer distributed to the poor inhabitants;
+while a splendid entertainment was provided for the governor and
+the gentry of the island, at the public expense.
+
+His majesty George II. having appointed Lord Londonderry[45] to
+succeed John Hart, Esq., in the government of the Leeward
+Islands, that nobleman arrived at Antigua in 1728; but was
+detained off the port, or rather on board his vessel, which was
+anchored in the roadstead for some time, on account of a
+hurricane. About this period, the commander of H. M. S.
+Winchelsea took a pirate vessel, while at anchor near one of the
+small islands with which these seas abound; but the crew escaped,
+with the exception of five persons, who were brought to Antigua,
+and hung. These were Captain Fen, the owner and commander, his
+gunner, and three common sailors.
+
+The first year of Lord Londonderry's administration, it was
+privately recommended to him, by the English government, to lay
+before the legislature of Antigua the necessity of building
+barracks for the accommodation of the regiment of foot stationed
+in the island, or else assign them quarters, by billeting them
+upon the several estates, or in the towns. Hitherto, they were
+scattered all over the country, obtaining shelter wherever they
+could, and consequently, they became very disorganized. It was,
+however, not until the year 1741, that these recommendations were
+carried into effect, when barracks were erected upon Rat Island;
+and, in 1753, additional barracks were built at the head of the
+town. The Antiguans were this year alarmed by a conspiracy among
+the negroes, which, however, appears to have been confined to
+those belonging to a Mr. Crump. As upon trial they were not
+thought worthy of death, it was resolved to banish eight of the
+principal offenders, who were to be sent to Maryland or Virginia,
+or else sold to such persons who would agree to transport them to
+the Spanish coasts, with the proviso that if they returned to
+Antigua, they were immediately to be executed.
+
+A thousand pounds were granted to his excellency Thomas Pitt,
+Earl of Londonderry, this year, in addition to the usual salary;
+and the emoluments arising from a duty of 3s. 6d. per ton, upon
+all vessels clearing from the island, having on board native
+produce, was also settled upon him as long as he continued in the
+government. As, however, the next year, (1729,) transient factors
+were allowed exemptions from the charge of 3s. 6d. per ton, (on
+the ground of their paying 2l. for every 100l. imported,) which
+would tend to decrease the governor's salary, a further sum of a
+thousand pounds was granted to supply all deficiencies. As there
+had been no government house erected since the affair of Colonel
+Parke, the Antiguans renting a house for that purpose, which was
+attended with some disadvantage, Lord Londonderry recommended to
+the council and assembly the necessity of building a government
+house, pointing out at the same time that the want of such an
+accommodation for their governors might thereafter prove
+disadvantageous to the Antiguans. This advice, however, appears
+not to have been followed, for it was not until after 1800, that
+the present government house was erected. The laws of Antigua
+were also this year recommended to be sent to the agent in
+England, to have them printed.
+
+Many other regulations were gone into, tending to the welfare of
+Antigua; and it was also resolved that if any members of the
+council and assembly were absent, and could not give a
+satisfactory cause, such absentees were to forfeit 5l., and were
+sometimes even expelled. During the government of this nobleman,
+a bill passed the two houses of parliament, which had been long
+pending, granting encouragement to the sugar colonies, of which
+Antigua had become one of the most flourishing. Lord Londonderry
+did not live more than a year and a half after his appointment;
+and, upon his demise, the Right Honourable Lord Forbes was
+nominated to the vacant government. The country voted a sum of
+money for his reception, and a house was engaged for him; but,
+after waiting for about six months, and no governor making his
+appearance, it was given up, and the government devolved to
+William Mathew the lieut.-governor. The same year, however,
+Brigadier-general William Crosbie was appointed captain-general;
+but it appears he did not accept the office, or the appointment
+was cancelled by the home government; for in the following year
+he removed to New York, where he became governor.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[44] See further as to the Mackinnons, Appendix, No. 13.
+
+[45] Son to Mr. Pitt; famous for the diamond he brought from the
+East Indies, and which he afterwards sold to the King of France.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+
+  Governor William Mathew--Insurrection of the Negroes--A Legend
+  of the Ravine--Punishment of the Conspirators.
+
+In 1730, William Mathew, Esq., the lieutenant-governor, succeeded
+to this government, vacant by the non-acceptance of Lord Forbes
+and General William Crosbie; and, in the first year of his
+appointment, fresh regulations were made for the payment of such
+slaves as suffered death for crimes, according to the ancient
+custom of the island. The affairs of Fort James were also looked
+into. In 1680, Colonel James Vaughan, of Antigua, had granted to
+his majesty Charles II. and his successors, a certain promontory,
+generally known as St. John's Point, for the purpose of building
+a fort, and for the support of the matrosses. This had been done
+as far as the erection of Fort James; but the other part of the
+land was not used; and consequently, this year, (1730,) it was
+determined that it should be given to the matrosses; only
+reserving a part which might be wanted for the purpose of
+building hospitals or magazines. In 1731, Antigua suffered very
+much from a long drought; when the want of water was so
+excessive, that a pail of that fluid sold for 3s. The following
+year (1732) amendments were made in the court of chancery. By the
+regulations of 1715, this court was made to consist of the
+captain-general or governor-in-chief, and five or more members of
+council; but as his excellency was not always upon the island
+when such courts were held, great delays were occasioned, and it
+was determined that in future the president of Antigua should, in
+the absence of the governor, or lieutenant-governor, preside.
+
+After a temporary absence, the Lieutenant-governor William Mathew
+returned to Antigua in the early part of the year 1733, assuming
+the government as captain-general of the Leeward Islands, and
+presented his additional instructions to the council and
+assembly, directing that body to be no longer restricted, as
+formerly, from making any additional allowance to the salary of
+1200l. per annum, allowed by the home government, namely:--
+"Whereas, it has been represented to us, that the salary of
+1200l. sterling per annum, which we have hitherto thought fit to
+allow out of the duty of four-and-a-half per cent., arising in
+our Leeward Islands, for our governor-in-chief of these islands,
+is not at present sufficient for his support and the dignity of
+that our government, we have taken the same into our
+consideration, and are graciously pleased to permit and allow
+that the respective assemblies of our said islands may, by any
+act or acts, settle upon you such sum or sums, in addition to
+your salary of 1200l. per annum, as they shall think proper; and
+you are hereby allowed to give your assent to any act or acts of
+assembly to that purpose. Provided, such sum or sums be settled
+on you and your successors in that government; at least on you
+during the whole time of your government there, and that the same
+be done by the first respective assemblies of our said island
+after your arrival there."
+
+In accordance with this new arrangement, the council and assembly
+readily granted an annual sum of 1000l. Antigua currency.
+
+In 1734, copper coins were imported from England, and passed at
+about the same rate they do at this day. Bayonets were also
+introduced this year into Antigua, for the use of the militia,
+they having been found to answer so well in the late wars in
+Flanders. These weapons obtained their name from being first
+manufactured at Bayonne, in France.
+
+The events of the year 1736 were such as to strike horror into
+the hearts of all the white inhabitants of Antigua. The negroes,
+who, as we have before seen, attempted an insurrection in 1728,
+attributed their want of success to the fact of their having no
+regular plan; and accordingly they chose one of their tribe, a
+very powerful black man, to be their king; and vowed to render to
+him the strictest homage, and follow his every order. This man,
+whose real name was "Klaas," although his master called him
+Count, was a person of undaunted courage and strong resolve; and,
+was it not on account of the demise of Governor Mathew's son,
+which frustrated their original plan of blowing up government
+house (or at least the house which was hired for the governor at
+Clark's Hill) with gunpowder, the night a grand ball was to be
+given in honour of the anniversary of the king's coronation, no
+doubt Antigua would have been another "Hayti," and "Klaas"
+another "Christophe."
+
+There is still an old tradition, which relates to this melancholy
+subject; and as it may not prove uninteresting to some of my
+readers, I will give it in a newer dress.
+
+                       The Fate of Klaas.
+
+                    A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE.
+
+At a late period in the evening of the 3rd of October, 1736, two
+horsemen might be seen riding slowly along the high road which
+leads from the capital to English Harbour. The eldest of these
+travellers was probably past the meridian of life; but his round
+florid face bore not a mark of care, nor could a single wrinkle
+be detected upon his open forehead. Age, indeed, had tinged his
+hair with grey, and, perhaps, slightly bent his form; but had
+neither depressed his spirits nor robbed his laughing blue eye of
+its lustre. In person he was tall and robust; and although
+jollity was written upon every feature, he possessed at the same
+time that air of determination which would make few wish to
+thwart him in his views, or offer an insult that was sure to be
+resented. The animal he bestrode was of a coal-black, and, like
+his master, bore his years well. Logo, as he was called, had
+often followed the hounds in "merrie England;" and, when his
+master came to take possession of a property in Antigua, his
+faithful steed, the sharer of many a long day's sport, was not to
+be left behind.
+
+The companion of this first-mentioned traveller was, in every
+respect, far different. Scarcely had seventeen summers passed
+over his head; and his slight, but well-formed person, was in
+direct contrast to the large and heavy make of his friend. His
+rich brown locks clustered around his lofty brow unspoiled by
+powder; but in his large dark eye, consumption had lit its fire,
+and flushed, at times, his naturally pale cheek.
+
+"Come, Edward," said the elder traveller, addressing the youth;
+"we must mend our pace, lad: here's Logo champing his bit with
+every mark of anger at being kept with tightened reign: the old
+fellow has too much mettle still left to like this hippopotamus
+trot, when he has an hungry stomach, and the prospect of a
+well-stored stable before him."
+
+"Ay, uncle; and one there is at home, who must be as anxiously
+looking for us, as Logo is for his stable."
+
+"What, Marien? Well, I dare say the girl feels the loss of her
+cousin Edward from the side of her spinet, if she don't her old
+father from his settle in the gallery. Women love those little
+attentions you know so well to offer; and Marien would miss you
+from tuning her lute, or turning the pages of her music book, as
+I should old Logo, were anything to happen to him. Dame Nature
+has made you, boy, to shine in lady's bower, more, I think, than
+in tented field."
+
+The deepest hectic sprang to the face of the youth, as his uncle
+uttered these words, and a half-smothered sigh broke from his
+lips, which, catching the attention of his companion, caused him
+to turn and look ardently at him.
+
+"Nay, dearest Edward, I meant not to distress you; I hope your
+trip to these sunny shores may restore you to stronger health;
+and then you may follow the steps of your brave father, and fight
+your country's battles. But we must not loiter any longer upon
+the road; for, in truth, I like not the appearance of the night,
+and we have no shelter near. I care not for myself, for I have
+weathered too many a storm to shrink from a sprinkling; but you
+are still delicate; and your cousin Marien will scold me for
+having already kept you out in the heavy night dew of this
+climate."
+
+So saying, they gave their steeds the rein, and dashed on,
+throwing the loose pebbles with which the road was strewed, on
+every side.
+
+The night, indeed, was far from promising; the wind blew in
+sudden gusts, and whirled the dead leaves on every side. A low
+moaning sound came from the distant mountains, the sure
+forerunner of a storm; while peals of thunder broke upon the ear.
+The black clouds drifted rapidly along the sky, and several
+meteors gilded the night with their evanescent glories. Suddenly
+a deep silence prevailed, broken only by the sound of the horses'
+feet upon the flinty road, as the benighted travellers struck
+their rowels into the sides of the animals, to urge them to
+greater speed. But this boding silence did not last long; the
+wind again rose with redoubled violence--the thunder rolled in
+awful peals--and a sheet of vivid lightning covered the whole
+face of the heavens; clap followed clap in rapid succession,
+shaking the very earth to its centre; the rain came down in
+torrents, yet still the red-winged lightning struggled through
+it, and kept up its terrific fire.
+
+A moment's pause in the storm gave the elder traveller time to
+exclaim--"Well, Edward, my prognostications have proved true,
+have they not? Poor Marien must indeed feel anxious;" when, just
+at this instant, a dark object issued out of a kind of ravine
+which appeared on one side of the road, and darted across the
+path close to the horses' heads. "What was that?" continued the
+speaker. "Was it man or animal? My glance was so momentary, that
+indeed I know not." "A boy," returned his companion, "an' my eyes
+deceived me, or it was Marien's dumb page." "What! Julio?
+Impossible! What could the boy do abroad in such a night? unless"
+--and the speaker paused; "unless, indeed, Marien sent him forth
+to gain some tidings of us; for although the poor little fellow
+was born deaf and dumb, he has the brightest intellect and
+swiftest foot of any negro I ever knew. I have often promised to
+tell you his story; and as the tempest seems to have worn away a
+little, I may as well give it now, which will tend to make the
+road seem the shorter.
+
+"Julio's mother was the foster-parent of my own Marien, although
+at that period she did not belong to me. But she was a great
+favourite of my wife's, and for that reason we hired her to nurse
+our child; and after my wife's death, I purchased her from her
+old master, who was a friend of mine. Nuno was a very superior
+negress; and was it not on account of her husband, 'Count,' whom
+I pointed out to you the other day as the reputed king of the
+negroes, I do really think she might have been living now. She
+never would say _what_ he did to her, or indeed make any
+complaint against him; but I am certain there was something
+mysterious about it; for when afterwards she was confined with
+Julio, she made it her dying request to me that Count might never
+know the child was his, or the boy be told who his father was.
+This 'Count,' as he is called, although I believe he bears
+another name, made a great deal of talk in the country some few
+years ago. It appears, his master had him severely flogged for a
+trifling offence, and Count ran away; but he afterwards came
+back, and all was forgiven, although his master might have had
+him hung for it, without any loss to himself. There is a law of
+the island, which punishes with death any negro who runs away for
+longer than three months, and the country pays their value to
+their owners. I heard a flying report of an intended insurrection
+of the negroes while we were in town to-day; but for my part, I
+give no credit to it. They have not forgotten the rebellion of
+Crump's negroes yet, and the punishment awarded to the offenders,
+which will keep them quiet, at least for a little time. I have
+heard, that Count was concerned in that affair; but none of the
+culprits mentioned his name; and although, from the character of
+the man, I should not think it unlikely, for the sake of poor
+Juno, I would not accuse him. But to return to Julio. His mother
+died immediately after his birth, and no one but ourselves, and
+his mother's brother, a slave named Cuffee, know who is his
+father. Upon finding the poor child was deaf and dumb, our hearts
+have been drawn the closer to him; and as soon as my affairs are
+arranged in this island, I shall return to England, and intend
+carrying Julio with me."
+
+By this time, the travellers had gained an ascent, and before
+them was spread a cluster of negro-huts, various out-buildings,
+and works of a flourishing estate; while on the top of another
+eminence stood the hospitable mansion of the owner. In a moment,
+all was bustle. "Massa come home!" was shouted from one to
+another, as a party of black boys and men started from their
+slumbers upon the dry trash, and ran to take the horses. After
+seeing Logo properly attended to, the travellers walked to the
+house, where, at an open jalousie, a slight figure, whose
+graceful outline bespoke it Marien's, was seen watching their
+progress. The family party having once more met, and a thousand
+inquiries as to their ride &c. having been made, Marien touched a
+silver bell, and a domestic entering, orders were given to send
+in Julio. "By-the-bye," exclaimed the elder gentleman, "didst
+thou send forth Julio in search of your _absentees_ to-night,
+Marien?"--"No, dearest father; Julio has not left the anteroom
+since dinner, that I am aware of. Anxious as I was to gain
+tidings of you, the night was too inclement to send the poor
+child abroad. But why do you ask that question?"--"Oh! nothing;
+only that our bright-eyed Edward thought he saw him cross the
+road at the ravine down yonder; but I think it must have been a
+dog, or something of the kind. However, to be certain, I
+mentioned it to you." At this moment the door opened, and Julio
+entered. He had, perhaps, attained his eighth year; but from his
+diminutive form, a stranger would have thought him even younger.
+His dress was a kind of white tunic embroidered with crimson, and
+a broad belt of gilded leather, with tassels of bullion, gathered
+it in folds around his slender waist. Smart silk stockings
+encased his legs, and white leather shoes, ornamented with gold,
+graced his little feet. When abroad, a small crimson cap, in
+which was placed a single ostrich feather, reposed upon his head:
+its snowy plume strangely contrasting with his ebon complexion.
+It was Marien's whim to dress her page in this fantastic manner,
+and her indulgent parent never thwarted her in any of her little
+pleasures.
+
+The deficiencies of poor Julio's external faculties did not
+extend to his intellects. The slightest action of Marien's was
+noticed by him, and her every wish gratified, if possible. Did a
+shade pass over her brow, he flew for her lute, or arranged her
+books at the spinet; did a smile illuminate her face, Julio
+jumped for joy. It was his task to gather for her the sweetest
+fruits, and range the tangled copse and dell to cull the fairest
+flowers; and when she walked abroad, he attended the steps of his
+young mistress, and swept from her path every noisome insect.
+Bright were the eyes of Julio, and joyous was the look expressed
+in his dark round face; but on this evening, when, at the summons
+of his mistress, he stood before her, every one was struck with
+the alteration in his appearance. His cheek was blanched to an
+unearthly hue--his eyes, bloodshot and dim, sought the floor;
+while a shudder seemed to run through his frame, as if he saw
+some dreaded form. To the anxious inquiries of the party,
+expressed by significant gestures, the boy only shook his head,
+while a darker shade of sadness passed over his brow. Thinking
+that a slight degree of illness was the cause, Marien kindly
+dismissed him to his repose, in hopes the morrow's dawn would
+restore him to his usual gaiety, and rising from her seat, placed
+in her father's hand a small billet. "A grand ball at Government
+House, eh! to be given in honour of our good king's coronation.
+What say you to that, young people? Wilt thou pay thy devotions
+at the shrine of the laughter-loving muse? No doubt, all the
+beauty and fashion of Antigua will be there. But come, the hour
+is past midnight; and if I keep our Marien up so late, she will
+lose the last of her roses she brought from Old England." So
+saying, the party separated for the night; and the scene changes
+to another spot, at an earlier hour.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+In one of the deepest parts of a ravine grew a variety of tangled
+bushes, which clothed it to its very bottom with their verdant
+foliage. Disrupted rocks were thickly scattered about, over which
+glided the speckled snake, while cricket and frog kept up an
+incessant chirping. About the commencement of the storm already
+described, a dark figure was seen slowly, but firmly descending
+the steep bank of the ravine, whose nearer approach bespoke him a
+son of Ham, one who wore the chain of bondage. In height he
+measured about six feet, while his broad chest and muscular arms
+shewed his Herculean strength. His complexion was of the deepest
+jet, and his large black eye shone with the fierceness of a
+firebrand. A mantle of dark blue cloth was wrapt around his form,
+leaving his arms and legs bare; and his head was bound round with
+a scarlet handkerchief, the ends of which floated in the breeze
+with graceful negligence. In one hand he bore a massive club,
+which assisted his steps in his descent; while the other rested
+upon a horse-pistol, which, heavily loaded, lay hid in the folds
+of his garment. Upon gaining the bottom of the ravine, he looked
+cautiously around; and then, as if satisfied all was right, he
+raised a conch-shell to his lips, and blew a low but clear blast.
+This repeated thrice, he seated himself upon one of the rocks;
+and burying his face in his hands, mused in silence, unmindful of
+the threatening appearance of the heavens. But a few minutes
+passed, when he again started to his feet, and blew a louder
+blast, which at a short interval was answered by a low whistle;
+and the crackling of dry leaves (as if trodden under foot)
+proclaimed the approach of other visitants. Drawing the pistol
+from its confinement, the first occupant of the ravine stepped a
+few paces forward, and, in a voice rendered thick by contending
+passions, demanded the word. "Death to our foes!" was the answer;
+and in another moment, about forty negroes stood around their
+king. "Welcome, brave friends, to this lone spot; for here at
+least we can feel we are free, and bid defiance to the hated
+whites. But where is Morah? Surely she will not desert us,
+Tomboy?" And he directed his looks to a short stout man, who
+ranked as his general, and answered to that name, and who had
+taken up his post at the right shoulder of his sable majesty.
+"Oh, no; Morah knows too well to desert Klaas at his need.
+Believe not that," returned the man. "We should have been here
+long before, but she was knocked up with her walk, and we were
+obliged to wait her will. But see!"--and touching the arm of
+Klaas, he pointed to two lusty youths who were coming down the
+bank, bearing between them some object, which could scarcely be
+pronounced human. Placing their burden safely at the feet of
+Klaas, the young men drew back, while he, giving her his hand,
+raised and placed her upon a rocky seat near himself. The woman,
+(for so she proved,) although looking more like the habitant of
+another world, must have numbered her hundredth year. Her face,
+which had lost its naturally black hue from age and sickness, was
+puckered up in a thousand wrinkles; while her toothless gums were
+seen through her thick open lips. The few hairs which time had
+left her were bleached to a snowy white; but her black eyes had
+lost none of their brightness: they gleamed from beneath her
+overhanging brow with a supernatural ray. Her form was bent
+almost double, and the skin hung about her hands and arms like
+black and shrivelled parchment. An old blanket partly covered her
+attenuated person, which she firmly grasped with her long bony
+fingers; but it afforded her no defence against the inclemency of
+the evening; for she shivered and trembled at every blast. Such
+was Morah, the old Obeah woman,[46] who was hated, yet dreaded,
+by nearly all her tribe.
+
+"Morah," said the leader of the band, after she had rested for a
+few minutes, "Morah, dost thou not know me? hast thou forgot the
+purpose for which we have met? The time is short, remember."
+
+"Oh, no, no! me no forget," said the old crone; "me know you very
+well; you're 'Count,' the negro king, as you call yourself, but
+your massa call you 'Count the Runaway,'" and she laughed
+demoniacally.
+
+"Call me Klaas," shrieked the negro; "oh! call me not Count--the
+name of my servitude--the name those detested whites gave me
+when, torn from all my heart holds dear, and forced into their
+ships, they brought me to this country, and sold me, for a
+miserable pittance, to the man I despise--the man who, for a
+small fault, had me flogged until the blood gushed down my back.
+Yes! flogged _me_, who was born heir to a kingdom, and who
+followed the chase in my own bright land, free as the zephyr
+which kisses its sunny mountains, until the fortunes of war made
+me the despised, degraded slave I am. Call me not 'Count,' I say;
+for every misery I have ever borne is recalled by that hated
+name. Why was it I spurned poor Nuno from me, and embittered her
+after life? Because, in a moment of repose--when the weary toil
+of the day was over--seated before our hut in the bright
+moonbeam, I talked to her of Africa, and of my hopes of soon
+escaping from my degraded state, she raised the demon within me
+by calling me 'Count,' when I had taught her to use no other name
+but 'Klaas;' and thus bringing all my wrongs before me, I vowed
+to sacrifice our child to the gods of my country should its eyes
+ever see the light. Oh, then, call me not 'Count' in this wild
+ravine, where everything breathes an air of freedom, although I
+am obliged to bear it (but not for long, I hope) before the
+abhorred Christians. Oh! call me not 'Count.' unless--" and he
+flung his arms on high, while his eyeballs rolled in fire, and
+every nerve quivered with emotion--"unless you wish to see me,
+like the hunted lant� turn on all alike. But enough;"--and by
+strong effort he mastered his turbulent passions, although the
+perspiration flowed from off his forehead in large drops, and his
+breast heaved like the stormy billow;--"I came not here to-night
+to recite my wrongs, or the wrongs of these my comrades; but to
+plan our redemption from them, and the destruction of our
+enemies. To business, then. But first let me ask you, Morah, has
+Obeah given the sign?"
+
+"An' think you me come here to-night had he not?" returned the
+old woman, doggedly; "ay, that he has, and a good sign it is; but
+p'raps you no want white man dead, eh? And again the hag uttered
+her horrible laugh, which seemed still more so in the midst of a
+clap of thunder, while her miserable form looked more unearthly
+in the lightning's flash.
+
+"Death to our foes!" broke from the lips of the leader, which was
+repeated by all the band; and then breaking up the circle in
+which they had been standing, they proceeded to prepare the
+different articles used in their superstitious orgies, under the
+inspection of old Morah, while Klaas and his general, Tomboy,
+conferred apart.
+
+A large hole being dug in the middle of the ravine, and all
+things properly arranged, the king and his companion were called;
+when, joining in a rank around the opening, the mysterious rites
+began. Morah, squatting at one end of the aperture, called upon
+Obeah, under the title of Nzambiampongee, to assist them in the
+extirpation of their foes; and after many a mumbled incantation,
+proceeded to bury in the hole small quantities of gunpowder,
+rusty iron, a little money, and a portion of human hair; while
+Klaas added to the heap by throwing in a few bujis.[47] After
+another incantation was chanted by them all, the hole was
+carefully covered over with black dog-bush,[48] and the earth
+once more thrown in and pressed down. At this moment a
+night-raven screeched, and Morah interpreted it as a kindly sign
+from Obeah; whilst a beautiful speckled snake, gliding over the
+spot, was greeted by Klaas as his country's god. This ceremony
+over, Morah departed, and other business was discussed. Seated
+upon his rustic throne, Klaas issued his mandates to his
+attentive subjects, who, stretched around, looked up to him as
+their presiding divinity.
+
+"In eight days' time," began their king, in a distinct and
+audible tone, "there is to be a ball given by the governor, in
+honour, they say, of their king, and as all our tyrants are
+expected to be present, it has been determined to make that night
+the scene of our grand endeavours, that, at one stroke, shall
+destroy our enemies, and make us once more free. Under yonder
+bushes, where the earth looks fresh, are buried the kegs of
+gunpowder which we have, at various times, been enabled to
+collect; and the night before the ball takes place do you,
+Quashey Coonah, make it your business to remove them carefully up
+to Clark's hill, where Harry, who has been lately hired there,
+will have them placed under the cellar. Frank, I look to you to
+take care of what arms we have procured, and also to distribute
+them. You will also have those bills sharpened--they may prove
+very useful. I make it my duty to fire the train about the time
+the moon rises above the top of yon mountain, while Tomboy will
+lead the party who is to prevent any of the whites escaping.
+Hercules will lay in wait with his band at the entrance of the
+town; so that, when the flames rise high, and the inhabitants
+hasten to give them assistance, he may fall upon them and prevent
+them. I have sent him and Jemmy to meet a large party of negroes
+up to windward to-night, who, no doubt, will aid us with their
+force; and as many of them are in the habit of going out shooting
+for their masters, they may be able to add a little to our stock
+of powder. Ned, do you try and obtain what arms you can; in such
+a cause, any means are fair.
+
+"Ah! that I will, King Klaas; and look what I have brought you
+to-night," and turning round, he drew from its sheath a blade of
+the finest steel; "what say you to Massa Colonel's own good
+sword. He told me to take care of it to-day, after he had done
+looking at it, and to put it carefully up; and so I have, ah!
+ah!" and Ned laughed until the water ran down his cheeks.
+
+"That's right, my fine fellow!" exclaimed Klaas; and taking it
+from the hand of his comrade, he examined, with intense interest,
+its shining surface. After some moments had passed in this
+employment, he replaced it carefully in its sheath, and, with
+something like a sigh, exclaimed,--"Well, I have been driven to
+this. They might have made me their friend, but harshness,
+contempt, and insult, has conspired to render me what I am; and
+for this bright weapon, perhaps the gallant Colonel Morgan has
+often drawn it in a far less worthy cause. But hist! I hear the
+sound of horses' feet, and it is time we part. At the close of
+three more days, meet me here again to receive final orders; till
+then, farewell; and remember our motto--'Death to our foes!'" So
+saying, Klaas rose from his seat, and grasping once more his
+club, prepared to depart. At this moment, however, a slight
+rustle was heard among the brushwood, as if some person was
+retreating, and Klaas, drawing his pistol from his bosom, started
+forward in that direction, followed by the others. "What could it
+be?" was the anxious inquiry, when, after a strict search, no
+object met their view. "What, indeed!" replied their chief; "if
+it was any of our friends, why did they not come forward; but if
+it was a foe--a spy--our plans of vengeance will be defeated, and
+we ourselves dragged to a felon's death;" and he ground his teeth
+at the thought. As nothing else could be done, they once more
+bade good night, and departed to their respective homes, leaving
+Klaas and his general to make one more attempt to discover the
+cause of the noise.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+Six times had the chariot of the sun rolled along the heavens,
+and bright-eyed Phoebus sought his golden couch, since the
+conspirators gathered around their king in that wild and silent
+glen. Among the inhabitants of Antigua nothing was talked of but
+the governor's ball, which was to be upon the grandest scale
+imaginable. Many a young heart beat high at the prospect of its
+gaieties, and many a bright eye grew brighter at the thoughts of
+the conquests to be made on that eventful night. The few shops
+which dealt in European fashions were crowded from morning to
+night with fair visitants, or their _femmes de chambre_; and
+laces and bugles, catgut and tiffany, were in constant demand.
+The busy sempstresses plied their needles with double speed; and
+various were the flounces and furbelows, pinkings and quiltings,
+they invented. In the midst of this bustle and activity, this
+anticipation of joyous festivities, a plaint of distress was
+borne down upon the gale: the governor's best-beloved son--the
+hope and pride of his parents--tossed his fevered head upon the
+couch of sickness; and in a few short hours, that beautiful and
+blooming youth lay a stiffened corse.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+In a large but well-arranged apartment, whose open _jalousies_
+admitted the evening breeze, loaded with the fragrance of the
+Arabian jasmine, were seated three persons. Two out of the group
+ranked under the lofty title of "lords of the creation;" but the
+third was a young and beautiful creature, whose elegant figure
+and flowing ringlets bespoke her one of Nature's fairest flowers.
+Reclining upon a _fauteuil_, she drew from a lute sounds so soft
+and sweet that every sense was held in thraldom; and anon, when
+she joined her liquid voice, and sang of other days, few were
+there who would wish to break the spell. But the spell was
+ordained to be broken--broken in a sudden manner. The door opened
+hastily, and a negro, darting into the middle of the room,
+exclaimed, in a voice of terror--"Massa, me must speak with you!"
+--"What's the matter?" returned our elder acquaintance, rising
+up, "what's the matter, Cuffee? You frightened us by your sudden
+entrance, and sent my Marien's roses back to her heart."--"Beg
+your pardon, massa, and yours, young missis, but me have
+something to tell you make your ears ring again: but, massa,
+where's Julio?--please let him come in." And without waiting for
+an answer, he left the room in search of the boy. "Marien,
+dearest," said her father, "take your cousin's arm, and retire
+for a little, until I have heard what the mad fellow has to say:
+his foolish nonsense has frightened you more than I like to see."
+And fondly pressing his daughter's hand, he led her to the door.
+
+In a few minutes Cuffee returned with the boy Julio, who wore the
+same downcast look as he did on the evening of the storm; and,
+holding the boy by the hand, gave his master the following
+narration. Julio, who, from being deaf and dumb, appeared to
+possess the other senses in a higher degree, had one evening
+observed a strange negro loitering about his master's estate, and
+hiding behind the bushes when any one passed. Thinking this
+peculiar, the dumb boy determined to watch his proceedings, and
+if he discovered anything wrong, to endeavour to acquaint his
+master with it. After spending more than an hour in this
+employment, the stranger departed, and Julio, unable to
+comprehend his motives, and fearful of not being understood, kept
+his discovery to himself. Some weeks had elapsed, and he had
+almost forgotten the circumstance, when, on the evening before
+the storm, he saw the same person lurking about the same spot;
+and, watching him unobserved, perceived he was shortly joined by
+a slave, of the name of Quelch, who, for repeated bad behaviour,
+had been punished by his master a few weeks before. After they
+had consulted for some time together, the stranger pointed in the
+direction of the ravine; and putting his hand under his cloak,
+drew forth a long sharp-pointed knife, which he shewed to his
+companion, giving at the same time a peculiar look. The knife
+being returned to its owner, the negroes parted, leaving Julio
+with the determination of watching Quelch more strictly.
+
+On the next evening, leaving his young mistress engaged with a
+book, the boy left the house with the intention of going to look
+for his master; and, upon gaining the high road, he saw Quelch
+entering an opening on the other side. Following his steps, he
+hid himself among the bushes, and thus became a witness of that
+lawless meeting, where, although he could not hear the words
+uttered, he saw enough to inform him some evil was intended.
+Frightened, and uncertain how to tell his discovery, his first
+care was to reach home; and, harassed in mind and body, the poor
+child stood before his mistress in the manner described. The next
+morning, he sought his uncle Cuffee, and, by significant gestures
+and passionate mutterings, at length made him understand the
+above relation. Cuffee's first care was to inform a friend of his
+of the name of Robin, and these two negroes watched the ravine
+every night in hopes of discovering what poor Julio could not
+inform them--the names of the conspirators. All, however,
+remained silent: the ravine had no occupants: and Robin and
+Cuffee were almost inclined to think they had misunderstood the
+boy, when, one evening, just as they had gained their accustomed
+post, they thought they heard the sound of voices; and, creeping
+upon their hands and knees, espied the whole band, with Klaas,
+or, as they called him, "Count," at their head, plotting their
+dreadful schemes. Knowing that this negro king was the father of
+Julio, Cuffee liked not to inform against him; and the next
+morning bringing intelligence of the death of the governor's son,
+and consequently the prorogation of the ball, he was in hopes the
+negroes would get disheartened at the failure of their plans, and
+forego their horrible intentions. Still he determined to keep an
+eye upon their movements; and a few weeks after, through the
+medium of another slave, named Manuel, he discovered that the
+conspirators intended to put their designs into execution on the
+15th of December; and that they were to have a final meeting in
+the ravine, to receive orders from their king.
+
+These were the tidings Cuffee conveyed to his master's ear--
+tidings which made his stout heart beat faster, and caused a
+shade of care, for once, to cross his brow. The time was short:
+the next night was the one on which the negroes were to meet, and
+Mr. ------, after leaving a kind message to his daughter, to
+excuse his absence, started immediately for the capital,
+accompanied by Robin and Cuffee, to lay the information before
+the proper authorities.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+The evening was calm. There was no moon, but the stars shone
+bright, and, by their refulgence, parties of men were seen
+walking cautiously along in the same direction. Every now and
+then they stopped as if to listen, and then proceeded again, as
+no sound met their ear. Leaving the high road, they struck across
+a wild and sterile plain, until, arriving at the bank of a kind
+of rocky defile, where the sable conspirators held their
+nocturnal meetings, they separated; and taking up their position
+on all sides, and holding their very breath, they presented more
+the appearance of marble statues than living men. After remaining
+in this situation for some time, a noise was heard as the tramp
+of a body of horse passing over a flinty road--no uncommon
+occurrence at that period. The sound came nearer and nearer, and
+presently a large band of soldiers appeared in sight, led by a
+middle-aged officer, and accompanied by several gentlemen. Riding
+for a short distance past the ravine, the word was given, "Halt!"
+and in a moment the horses stood motionless. "Dismount!" broke
+from the lips of the commander, and the men, all heavily armed,
+sprang to the ground. Walking quickly forward, they joined the
+watchers around the ravine, while their leader, followed by many
+others, bounded down the bank, and exclaimed, in a stentorian
+tone, "Surrender! or you are dead men." All was confusion among
+the assembled conspirators. Hemmed in on all sides, and daunted
+by the gleaming arms and pointed muskets of the soldiers, who
+came so silently but surely upon them, the negro band were driven
+to despair. Klaas alone maintained his firmness, and shouted in a
+voice of thunder, "Fire the gunpowder, lads, fire the gunpowder,
+and let us die as brave men, and not as cowards. Who will mourn
+the fate which will be shared by our hated tyrants!" But this was
+not to be. Overpowered by numbers, their arms tightly pinioned
+behind them, their mouths gagged, and held between two soldiers,
+negro after negro was marched off--the ravine was left to its
+usual silence--and the reign of "Klaas," the "Slave King," was
+over.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+So ends the legend. The conspirators being conveyed to the
+capital, various were the punishments awarded them. Klaas, or, as
+he was more generally called, "Count," Tomboy, and Hercules were
+broken alive upon the wheel. In their last moments their
+fortitude did not forsake them; and their last words expressed
+their hatred to the whites. Some were gibbeted alive in a place
+called Green's Bay. Frank, who belonged to E. Chester, Esq., and
+several more, were burned in Otto's pasture, at the outskirts of
+the capital; and the rest, who were looked upon as the dupes of
+their reputed king, were transported to the Spanish coasts.
+Quelch was pardoned: he played the traitor's part, and amused the
+ear of Klaas and his comrades with some chimerical scheme while
+the soldiers passed by who accomplished their destruction; and
+old Morah, the Obeah woman who attended their meetings, escaped
+punishment by falling a prey to death before her trial. So signal
+was the victory obtained, and so severe the punishment of the
+conspirators, that the remaining slaves became intimidated, and
+quietly bore their yoke without seeking for deliverance. In 1739,
+the country emancipated Cuffee and Robin for their discovery of
+this insurrection, paying to their masters their respective
+value, and presented Manuel with a reward for his services in
+that affair.[49]
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[46] A dealer in necromancy.
+
+[47] A small white shell, about the size and shape of an olive,
+used as the general currency in Guinea.
+
+[48] A wild shrub, supposed to be of great use in witchcraft.
+
+[49] For some further particulars, see Appendix, No. 14.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER X.
+
+
+
+  Governor William Mathew--Sir George Thomas, Bart.--James
+  Verchild--Honourable William Woodley--Sir Ralph Payne--Hon.
+  Craister Greathead--General Burt--The circumstances of his
+  death--Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart.
+
+After the suppression of the insurrection related in the last
+chapter, it was resolved in future to keep a better watch over
+the negroes, and be more strict in the government of them. Slaves
+were not to be allowed to congregate about the streets of St.
+John's; and if they refused to disperse, when ordered to do so,
+it was justifiable to fire upon them: the country paying for
+those who were shot. If any of the negroes were suspected of
+treasonable practices, conspiracies, or insurrections, they were
+to suffer torture, not extending to death; but in case any of
+them died under the pain of having a limb cut off, &c., the owner
+of such slaves received the value of them from the public
+treasury.
+
+The inhabitants appear to have been quite alarmed at the state of
+affairs, particularly as there were but few white people still
+upon the island compared with the negroes. In 1740-1, it was
+again taken into consideration how to increase the number; and
+after some deliberation, it was determined to give further
+encouragement for the importation of white servants, by adding a
+bounty of 40s. to that already given. It was also ordained, that
+every owner or renter of slaves should, for every thirty negroes,
+have a white man in his employ, under a penalty of 20l. for each,
+according to the number of slaves. This gave rise to the custom
+of building "free tenancies," which were houses given to white
+persons to reside in, without receiving rent for the same; and by
+this means, the proprietor escaped the obligation which the law
+enforced of employing so many white servants or overseers.
+
+In 1741, Rat Island, as it is called, although in reality a
+promontory, was purchased by the country, and barracks and
+fortifications erected thereon. War having broken out between
+England and France, the Antiguans suffered very much in their
+commerce. Commodore Lee had been sent out to protect the trade,
+but, it appears, he did not act like a British officer; for when
+stationed off Antigua, he allowed a French fleet of merchantmen
+and their convoy to pass his vessels without molestation, and
+actually captured some of the Antigua coasters. In 1747,
+complaints against him were sent home, and Commodore Legge was
+despatched to Antigua, with full power to try the case. The
+Antiguans were obliged this year to purchase and maintain a
+vessel to protect their small crafts, so harassed were they by
+the French privateers.
+
+The lieutenant-governor of Antigua, Colonel George Lucas, died
+this year, (1747,) at Brest, where he was detained prisoner,
+having been taken by a French vessel of war, on his way to
+England the year before. The following year, (1748,) a petition
+was sent home, praying his majesty for satisfaction for the
+injury suffered by the incursions of the French. About this
+period, the court-house was commenced to be built, on the spot
+where the market used to be held. Hitherto a house was rented for
+that purpose, which was found to be very inconvenient, for many
+reasons; and as there was no particular place appointed for the
+offices of the secretary or provost-marshal, it was found
+expedient to erect such building as soon as possible, and
+appropriate a part of it for those offices.
+
+In 1752, George Thomas, Esq., succeeded his excellency William
+Mathew, Esq., in the government of Antigua, and the rest of the
+Leeward Islands, as captain-general. The following year (1753) a
+fund was raised to purchase land, for the purpose of building
+additional barracks for the accommodation of the regiment of foot
+stationed in Antigua, and also building a guard-house in the town
+of St. John's. In the same year, an additional support for his
+excellency, George Thomas, was appointed to be paid to him during
+his government. The erection of a new church at Parham was
+commenced in 1755; a yearly tax having been imposed upon the
+inhabitants, for the expense of the erection, and for keeping it
+afterwards repaired. This year, too, it was found, that the white
+inhabitants had so materially decreased in number,
+notwithstanding strenuous measures had been taken since 1716 to
+encourage the importation of them, that it was thought necessary
+to offer further inducements to white persons to emigrate from
+England to this colony. In order that this object should be more
+fully carried out, heavier penalties were also this year enforced
+upon proprietors and renters of negroes, if they neglected to
+have in their employ a white Protestant person for every thirty
+slaves; for many owners had evaded the law, by paying the
+penalty, rather than be obliged to maintain a white servant. The
+number of white inhabitants at this period was but little more
+than 3000, while the negroes amounted to about 32,000. In 1757, a
+portion of land was appropriated for building a house for the
+accommodation of the train of artillery in the town of St.
+John's.
+
+In 1758, the French threatened an invasion of Antigua. War had
+broken out between England, and France; and, as was always the
+case in such times, the French began to plague their English
+neighbours in the West Indies. The Antiguans, hearing of their
+intentions, hastily equipped several privateers to cruise about
+the island, which were fortunate enough to take some prizes, and
+intimidate the French. It was found by experience, that these
+privateers injured the French more in their commerce than even
+the men-of-war; and for this reason, the country gave great
+encouragement to the fitters-out of such vessels.
+
+The following year, (1759,) Commodore Moore commanded the Leeward
+Island station, and the brave Captain Tyrrel was ordered to
+protect the island of Antigua. This gentleman, whose courage and
+activity were equal to his conduct and circumspection, had, early
+in the month of March previous, demolished a fort at Martinique,
+and destroyed four privateers riding under its protection. On his
+return to Antigua, he discovered a large fleet of the enemy's;
+and giving immediate chase, attended by the "Weazle" man-of-war,
+he quickly came up with them, and after a desperate fight,
+scattered and dispersed them. Capt. Tyrrel was wounded in the
+face, and lost three of the fingers of his right hand. This year,
+too, the island of Guadaloupe was taken by the English; and the
+Antiguans (on the faith of a proclamation issued by the governor,
+pledging the country to pay the value of such slaves as might be
+killed or desert) sent a large complement of negroes to act as
+pioneers, and assist in drawing the artillery. During the next
+year, several prizes were taken by the Antigua privateers; and
+Captain O'Brien, of H. M. S. "Griffen," assisted by Captain
+Taylor of the "Temple," took three large vessels off Antigua, and
+brought them into English Harbour.
+
+The year 1760 is celebrated for the introduction of methodism
+into Antigua, by a Mr. Gilbert, which, from a very small
+beginning, has overspread the whole island, and proved of
+infinite value to the inhabitants. In 1761, assurance was
+prohibited on all French vessels and merchandise; and also all
+vessels trading to France, or the French colonies, during the
+war. During this year regulations were made respecting the
+manumission of slaves. Antigua certainly set a bright example to
+the other islands, in days of slavery, of never withholding from
+its negroes _that_ privilege. The following year, 1762, the
+necessity of having the laws of the island printed was again
+brought before the council and assembly, which was unanimously
+agreed to. The same year Antigua again supplied a complement of
+strong negroes, to serve as pioneers, &c., under the command of
+the Right Honourable the Earl of Albemarle, in an intended
+expedition against Martinique. The year 1765 was the last that
+Sir George Thomas continued in the government of the Leeward
+Caribbee Islands.[50]
+
+James Verchild, Esq., was appointed to succeed Sir George Thomas
+in the government in 1766; and during that year harbour-masters
+were appointed. Antigua still appearing deficient in white
+inhabitants, in 1767 further regulations were made, which would,
+it was hoped, tend to increase the number, and retain in the
+island many families who were upon the point of leaving it. The
+cause of these persons emigrating, it appears, was on account of
+their not being allowed to reckon the female members of their
+family, in the place of a white servant to so many slaves, as the
+law required, as was the case in Jamaica and St. Vincent's; it
+was therefore deemed expedient this year to give way in this
+respect, and permit two women to count as one man.
+
+In 1768, William Woodley, Esq., was appointed commander-in-chief
+of Antigua, and the other Leeward Caribbee Islands. During his
+administration, a dreadful fire broke out in the town of St.
+John's, which did great damage, but of which a further account
+will be given in another part of this work. Large sums of money
+were granted, and a collection made for the sufferers at
+Liverpool. Precautions were afterwards taken, by regulating
+certain buildings about the capital; but unfortunately those wise
+regulations have long since fallen into disuse. In 1769, the snow
+"Rodney" put into Antigua, in distress. She had been despatched
+from England with convicts, who were to be employed in the State
+of Maryland, but meeting first with bad weather, and afterwards
+long calms, all their provisions were consumed; and when they
+fortunately made Antigua, eleven of the convicts had died from
+starvation, and the survivors had eaten their very shoes.
+
+In 1771, Sir Ralph Payne, K.G., succeeded to the government. His
+excellency was a native of St. Kitts, and was esteemed for many
+qualities. The Antiguans were quite pleased with his nomination,
+supposing he would have the interests of these colonies greatly
+at heart. The first year of his administration the common gaol
+was rebuilt, which had been burnt down in the late fire; and a
+portion of land, contiguous to it, purchased for the purpose of
+enlarging that part appropriated for the use of the debtors. The
+year 1771 is celebrated as that in which the "Sugar Ants" first
+made their appearance in Antigua. They were supposed to have made
+their way from Dominica to this island; and, minute as they are,
+they proved a most formidable enemy, by destroying an immense
+quantity of sugar-canes. This year also marks the appointment of
+Sir George Pownall to the situation of provostmaster-general of
+the Leeward Islands, under letters patent, dated 7th June, in the
+eleventh year of the reign of his majesty George III. This grant
+had been made to the father of Sir George, after the death of the
+former patentee, Mr. Richard Phelps--"to be held with all fees,
+rights, profits, privileges, and advantages," for the lives of
+Mr. Pownall, and his two sons, Sir George Pownall, and Mr. John
+Lillington Pownall.
+
+In 1772, Antigua suffered very much from the effects of a
+hurricane; great damage was done to the shipping both in St.
+John's Harbour, and also in English Harbour. The "Chatham,"
+commanded by Admiral Parry, the "Seahorse," and some other
+vessels of his majesty's service, were driven on shore, and
+several merchantmen were sunk. In 1774, Sir Ralph Payne was
+ordered home, much against the wish of the Antiguans; and a
+petition was forwarded to England praying his majesty to
+re-appoint him.
+
+Craister Greathead, Esq., another West Indian, succeeded Sir
+Ralph Payne as commander-in-chief in 1775, but he appears to have
+given St. Kitts the preference, principally residing in that
+island. Nothing of importance occurred during his administration;
+happily for the Antiguans, war was principally confined to
+another quarter, which gave them a little time to look about
+them, and redress their domestic grievances.
+
+In 1777, General William Mathew Burt was appointed to the
+government, and a suitable residence prepared for his reception.
+The following year, war, blood-stained war, unfurled his red
+banner in these "gems of the sea"--these beautiful West Indian
+islands. On all sides of Antigua did the battle rage; island
+after island surrendered either to French or English prowess; and
+the fears of the Antiguans were raised for the safety of their
+little domicile. Nor was war alone the only impending evil she
+had to dread; the heavens withheld their bounty, and the country
+fainted beneath a burning sun; famine, it was supposed, would be
+the result, and had it not been for the interposition of his
+gracious majesty George III., by advancing 20,000l. sterling to
+procure subsistence for the negroes, their fears would have
+proved too true. Yet although this kind loan to the country
+averted much evil, the series of calamities they had already
+suffered caused so much sickness, that in the course of the next
+year, 1780, it was the opinion of Dr. Samuel Athill that upwards
+of eight thousand negroes died.
+
+In 1778, fresh regulations were made for the better government of
+slaves, and for establishing certain days, viz.--the whole time
+from sunset on Christmas-eve, to sunrise of the 28th of December,
+as their holidays. No other days were to be allowed the slaves by
+their owners in place of those specified; and no slave-holder
+could refuse to allow them such holidays, under a penalty of
+100l.: one-half of the fine to go to the informer, the other half
+to the public treasury--during these holidays martial law was to
+be in force.
+
+About this period Lord Rodney took command of the fleet which was
+stationed in these seas, and was fortunate enough to beat off the
+French, and thus spare the Antiguans the horrors of an invasion,
+which was but too successful at St. Kitts. The name of this
+gallant officer is still remembered with gratitude and affection
+by West Indians; and not many years ago, the stranger who visited
+Barbados was highly entertained with an old black woman, who
+passed by the title of "Lady Rodney," and who wore upon her dark
+fat arm a picture of the Admiral, which he gave her at parting.
+But alas! like the noble lord, she has passed to another world,
+and no longer do the young _midds_ of her majesty's service, who
+visit Barbados, recognise her shrill cry of "hab best guaba fine
+pine, and hot ginger drink for noung buckru me lob."
+
+The fortifications of Goat Hill, and Great George Fort, at
+Barnacle Point, were completed during the administration of
+General Burt, as well as several other forts, which were very
+necessary in this season of warfare. About this period slaves
+were forbidden to vend sugar, rum, molasses, or sugar canes,
+besides many other articles.
+
+The circumstances attending the death of Governor Burt were very
+extraordinary. Upon a certain day his excellency honoured a
+gentleman of the island with his company to dinner, and during
+the repast he was as gay as any at that festive board. Soon after
+the cloth was withdrawn, when the laughing wine sparkled in the
+crystal chalice, and, surrounded by all the good things of this
+world, the convivial party threw off all cares, they were
+surprised to hear the governor call to his servant to bring his
+sword, which he always carried abroad with him. Wondering at this
+command, yet too well bred to make inquiries, the company waited
+in silence until the order was performed. The sword was brought
+and handed to the governor; when, unsheathing it in an instant,
+he exclaimed, in a loud voice--"Tell that fellow to quit the back
+of my chair, or I will run him through!" The company were more
+amazed than ever. What could the governor mean? no one was behind
+his chair; no one was in the room but themselves and the
+domestics. Uncertain what to do or say, they still remained
+silent; when the governor repeated, in a still louder tone, "Send
+away that man, or I will run him through!" It was represented to
+his excellency that he laboured under a mistake, that no one was
+behind his chair; but it was of no avail, all that could be got
+from him was, "Send away that man, or I will run him through!" In
+this state he was carried home, and every art tried to restore
+him to his proper senses; but all was of no avail, he never
+recovered the shock; and in a short time after he fell a prey to
+that insatiable monster, Death, who so justly says--
+
+   "I visit the halls of the great and gay,
+    And snatch them from all their delight away;
+    I rest at the villager's humble door,
+    For welcome alike are the rich and the poor."
+
+It has been said that the governor was poisoned, and that the
+mixture, or whatever other form it was administered in, was so
+prepared as to have the effects of unsettling his reason; but
+possibly it was a case of _delirium tremens_, without the
+assistance of any deleterious drug or herb.
+
+This circumstance is related in a different manner; and as I am
+not aware which is the most correct, will lay them both before my
+readers, that they may judge for themselves. General Burt, it is
+said, was dining at a party at "Pensive Hall," (the name of the
+great house upon Martin Byam's estate, now belonging to Messrs.
+Shands, of Liverpool, England,) when he saw an apparition, which
+informed him, that ere twelve moons had waxed and waned, this
+mandate should be issued to him--"Thou shalt die and not live!"
+He related the circumstance to the party, and expressed his firm
+belief in it. His friends removed him to the Great House upon
+Weir's estate, (the present seat of Francis Byam Ottly, Esq.,)
+and by convivial parties, strove to overcome his melancholy
+forebodings; but all was of no effect. He finally sailed for
+England, and died upon his passage, the _very day twelve months_
+he saw the apparition.
+
+After the death of General Burt, in 1781, Major-General Sir
+Thomas Shirley, Bart., was appointed to the office of
+commander-in-chief. No events of importance marked the first year
+of his government, except that the gallant Admiral Vernon
+obtained a complete victory over the French fleet, between this
+island and Guadaloupe, and followed up his success by many other
+naval conquests. General Prescott, commander of the 69th
+regiment, and the Antiguan troops, landed at St. Kitt's, and
+drove the enemy before them with great slaughter.
+
+In 1782, St. John's again suffered severely from a destructive
+fire, which broke out in one of the most densely-populated parts
+of the town. It was this disaster which gave rise to the
+establishment of the "Friendly Fire Company," every member of
+which pledged himself to keep in good order a certain number of
+buckets; as also to practise themselves in the use of their
+engines. Soon after the formation of this society, the "Phoenix
+Fire Office," in Lombard-street, London, sent out proposals for
+insurance--the first which were ever made in Antigua, and for
+many years, that office was the only one which would grant
+security upon West Indian property.
+
+In 1784, it was resolved to make some alterations in the oaths
+required of white servants. Prior to this year, they were obliged
+to swear to their being Protestants, as well as take the oaths of
+allegiance; from which cause many quiet and useful persons were
+debarred from receiving the rewards held out to other white
+emigrants, on account of their not being nurtured in the
+Protestant religion. It was therefore enacted that no other oaths
+should be required but those of allegiance to the reigning
+monarch and his successors. A nightly watch was also established
+in the town of St. John's, and a tax levied upon the inhabitants
+to defray the expenses of it. It was in this year, also, that it
+was contemplated to allow slaves a trial by jury; but it does not
+appear to have been carried into effect until 1798. The former
+method of trying these sable defaulters was to bring them before
+a justice of the peace, and if his worship considered the offence
+worthy of the highest punishment, he called to his aid a
+fellow-justice, and between them they condemned the culprit to
+death, causing such sentence to be immediately executed.
+
+Regulations were again very judiciously made for the better
+erection of kitchens, blacksmiths' shops, bakeries, &c., in order
+to prevent, as far as possible, the repetition of those fatal
+fires which had so lately devastated great part of the capital.
+Such buildings erected within the precincts of St. John's were,
+in future, to be constructed of stone or brick, and the roofs to
+be cased with tiles or slates. Like many other wise purposes,
+these regulations have long ago fallen into disuse; and at the
+present day, in an old wooden shed, in the midst of a populous
+neighbourhood, a blacksmith drives his trade; and as you pass the
+open door, his huge fire may be seen vomiting forth its tongues
+of flame, while showers of bright sparks, struck from the glowing
+iron, often find a resting-place amid the surrounding heaps of
+combustibles. Surely such practices ought to be noticed by "the
+powers that be," particularly when we have lately had such
+distressing proofs of the havoc made by that destructive element.
+In 1784 the churchwardens were empowered to sell certain portions
+of public lands, and to purchase other lots, for the more
+convenient erection of a parish hospital. Amendments were also
+made in the act passed in 1766, for the prevention of damage to
+the harbour of St. John's, and for appointing a harbour-master,
+who was to be "a person bred to the sea, and otherwise
+sufficiently skilled and qualified to take charge of the port and
+harbour of St. John's, including the cove."
+
+In 1786, a tax was raised upon the inhabitants of St. John's, to
+defray the expenses of cleaning and repairing the streets of the
+capital. This must have been very requisite, if they were really
+in the state described in the following passage, (extracted from
+a letter written from Antigua August 1, 1786.) "The streets are
+spacious, but unpaved, _nor is there the least care taken to keep
+them clean_. The prickly pear bush, and other shrubs, are
+suffered to grow therein, to the annoyance of the passengers, the
+secreting of every species of nastiness, and to the great
+increase of vermin, insects, and reptiles, with which this place
+abounds." Public billiard and other gaming-tables were
+prohibited, under pain of forfeiture; much to the good order and
+welfare of the island.
+
+In 1787, our late beloved and lamented sovereign William IV.
+(then Prince William Henry) honoured Antigua with a visit. During
+the period of his stay there, he endeared himself to every heart,
+by that kind condescension and sympathy of manner which marked
+his every stage through life. As no doubt it will be interesting
+to my readers to have some account of the manner in which his
+highness passed his time, I will insert the following letter,
+written by John Luffman, the author of the map of Antigua, and
+published, among other of his epistolary productions, in 1789.
+
+                            "St. John's, Antigua, Jan. 16, 1787.
+
+"Dear Sir,--Prince William Henry arrived here the latter end of
+last month in the Pegasus frigate. His appearance has put this
+little community into a ferment. Addresses were immediately
+presented to him from the legislative body, and likewise from the
+merchants, expressive of loyalty to his royal father, and of the
+happiness and honour his highness had conferred on them by his
+gracious visit. The address of the legislature was read and
+presented by a Mr. John Burke, solicitor-general of the Leeward
+Islands, and speaker of the assembly of this island; but,
+notwithstanding this gentleman has been for years hackneyed at
+the bar, and is a bold orator; yet, on this occasion, to the
+astonishment of every bystander, he was nearly bereft of the
+power of utterance. The merchants' address was read and presented
+by a Mr. John Scotland. His highness received these effusions of
+loyalty to his illustrious parent, and of respect to himself,
+with great satisfaction, and returned gracious answers. Each of
+these bodies gave a public dinner and ball for his highness's
+entertainment. The prince opened both balls with Miss A------
+(Athill), a beautiful young lady of respectable family; and his
+affability, politeness, and condescension, to every person who
+had the honour of his conversation, was as conspicuous as it was
+pleasing. The ladies put their best smiles upon their faces, and
+their best adornments upon their persons; indeed, every
+individual seemed emulous of shewing respect to the royal
+visitor. Many offers of particular attention and civility have
+been made to his highness, which he in general declined, wishing
+rather to appear in the humble character of a private gentleman,
+than in the dignified situation of a prince. How long he means to
+honour this isle with his presence, I cannot with certainty
+learn,--it will probably be several months; the people here, I
+believe, hope and _wish it may be for years_. The negroes look at
+the _Grande Bocrah_ (so they call the prince) with astonishment,
+and sometimes incommode him as he walks the streets; but his
+highness possesses all _that admired frankness and noble
+liberality_ so characteristic in a British seaman, and will
+frequently condescend to talk with them. Capt. Nelson, of the
+"Boreas," Capt. Holloway, of the "Solebar," and the other
+principal naval officers on this station, are his highness's
+chief attendants on all occasions.
+
+                      "I remain, &c. &c."
+
+In 1788, two Jews were tried at the court of grand sessions, for
+a robbery committed upon one of their tribe. "Marcus" (the name
+of the one most culpable) was condemned to suffer death by
+hanging, but was afterwards pardoned; while "Vanban" (the name of
+the other culprit) was sentenced to stand in the pillory for a
+certain number of hours. This punishment, however, did not appear
+to make due impression upon the guilty Israelite, for a spectator
+of the exhibition (in a letter written to a friend) describes him
+as standing there with the utmost assurance, "holding, with one
+hand, his hat before his face, and with the other, supporting an
+umbrella to prevent the sun warming his head."
+
+In the latter end of June, 1788, Sir Thomas Shirley quitted the
+government, and sailed for England in the "Roehampton," commanded
+by Captain Ross. His excellency, it appears, felt aggrieved at
+some treatment he received from the legislature, and accordingly,
+upon his departure, he refused the vote of civility from that
+body, and proceeded on board the vessel, attended only by his
+private secretary. Mr. Nugent assumed the command as
+lieutenant-governor, and soon after his arrival, a new road,
+leading to Five Islands Division, was made, and great care taken
+to drive piles in that part of the town known as the "Big
+Market," in order to prevent, if possible, any further
+encroachment of sea, which had, within the last few months,
+almost destroyed the old highway.
+
+In 1790, Sir Thomas Shirley again resumed the government of the
+Leeward Islands, and soon after his arrival, it was enacted by
+the legislature, that it should be lawful for the vestry of St.
+John's to levy a tax (not exceeding 2l. per cent. on value of
+goods sold) upon every transient or non-resident trader who shall
+visit the island, which tax was to be applied to the maintenance
+of ministers, the poor of the parish, or any similar purposes.
+The following year the fortifications at Dow's Hill were
+commenced, the appearance of which, at this day, proves the
+erector's knowledge of rampart and bastion. Amendments were also
+made (1791) as regarded the keeping of rum-shops, or selling any
+spirituous liquors. Prior to this period, no free negro or
+mulatto could keep such an establishment, or sell any strong
+drink or wine under a heavy penalty; or if even they were
+concerned in such a business with a white person, it was
+punishable in both; but under this government the case was
+altered, for upon applying to the court of king's bench, persons
+of their caste and colour could obtain a licence by giving
+security. An act was passed (containing 227 clauses) for the
+better regulating the island courts, and due methods effected for
+an improved administration of justice. It had been formerly the
+practice in Antigua to burn such felons as were within the
+benefit of clergy, in the hand, but this year the punishment was
+commuted to public or private whippings, inflicted once or
+oftener, but not more than at three different periods. This was
+the last decree signed by his excellency: he appears to have been
+an able and just governor, and well calculated for a
+representative of royalty. After the departure of his excellency,
+John Nugent, Esq., resumed the command as lieutenant-governor
+until the following year, when the Honourable William Woodley was
+re-appointed.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[50] For genealogy of this gentleman, and when created a Baronet,
+see Appendix, No. 15.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+
+  Governors: William Woodley--John Stanley--Major-General Charles
+  Leigh--Archibald Esdail--John S. Thomas--Robert Thomson.
+
+In 1792, William Woodley, Esq., was again appointed
+commander-in-chief; and, soon after his arrival, the increase of
+the importation of white servants was again taken into
+consideration.
+
+Antigua had never reckoned a large population of whites; indeed,
+from various causes, they were continually decreasing. This could
+not be attributed to the want of encouragement given to settlers,
+but from the situation of the island itself. Although Antigua is
+naturally fortified by rocks and breakers, which defends it from
+the attacks of large vessels; yet there are so many creeks and
+harbours (which, with a small population, it was almost
+impossible to protect) that the French and Caribs found it an
+easy matter to land in their canoes, and destroy and plunder the
+country, and ill-treat the inhabitants. From these circumstances,
+emigrants were unwilling to settle here, but preferred going to
+some of the other islands, which were less liable to these
+incursions. To counteract these evils, and increase the number of
+white inhabitants, various plans, as already shewn, had been
+adopted by former governors,--fines were imposed upon proprietors
+if they did not employ one able-bodied white man to every thirty
+slaves, supposing that would tend to augment the population. But
+as it was found that the law was still eluded, by owners paying
+the penalty rather than maintain so many white servants, it was
+agreed, this year, by the governor, council, and assembly to
+increase the fine to 53l. 6s. 8d. for every deficient white
+servant to forty slaves annually. Possibly this might have had,
+in some degree, the desired effect; for, in 1800, we find there
+were about 3000 white inhabitants to 36,000 negroes, which had
+not been the case for the last forty years.
+
+In 1793, the militia was regulated, and formed into "one squadron
+of light dragoons, who were to serve on foot and horseback; two
+regiments and one independent company of foot; and one battalion
+of artillery." The dragoons were to be named by the governor and
+council; and although not to be appointed without their own
+consent, when once entered, they were not at liberty to remove to
+another corps, unless promoted by the governor to a commission.
+Only one person from an estate could serve in the dragoons, which
+squadron was to consist of never more than one hundred and eight
+men--non-commissioned officers and privates included--or less
+than sixty. This was the first year any free negro or coloured
+person was allowed to serve in the militia, when they were
+appointed to the under services of artillery, and to act as
+pioneers, and made subject to the same fines as privates of foot.
+It appears this was also the year uniforms were appointed for the
+militia, which being well arranged, made a good show upon their
+monthly field-days. Antigua was visited this year by a malignant
+fever, which caused a great many deaths. It was supposed to have
+been brought from Grenada in H. M. S. Experiment, and conveyed
+ashore in some of the sailors' bedding.
+
+John Stanley, Esq., succeeded Mr. Woodley in the government, and
+arrived the latter end of the same year, (1793,) but he did not
+reside often in Antigua, giving St. Kitts the preference. In
+1794, Antigua sent a complement of men, and some negro slaves, to
+assist in the reduction of Martinique and Guadaloupe; and upon
+the taking of those islands, the governor, council, and assembly,
+issued a proclamation, forbidding any free persons of colour, or
+negro slaves belonging to those places, from coming to, or
+remaining in, this island. During the next year an annuity was
+granted to the Honourable Edward Byam, the president of Antigua,
+for his many services to the island, which has been alluded to in
+a former chapter. A sum of money was also raised for defraying
+the expenses of the war, which had been very heavy for the last
+three years.
+
+Major-General Charles Leigh was appointed commander-in-chief in
+1795, but did not continue in the government more than twelve
+months. During this period, it was agreed to allow such of the
+poorer classes of white persons who might be wounded (while
+serving in the militia) so severely as to affect their
+after-life, 70l. annually; if killed, their widows to receive
+40l. annually, during their widowhood; and their children, 20l.
+annually, until they attained the age of fourteen. Additional pay
+was also provided for the gunner and matrosses employed in the
+several forts, and new regulations for the better ordering of the
+militia, which in these seasons of danger was very necessary, for
+the West Indies were still in an unsettled state, and their old
+enemies the French were always on the look-out for opportunities
+of increasing their possessions in these seas. Major-General
+Leigh becoming disgusted with the West Indies, he determined to
+return to England, and accordingly embarked on board a vessel
+bound for that place, on the 3rd July, 1796, without permission
+from his majesty.
+
+At the departure of Major-General Leigh, there happened to be
+none of the lieutenant-governors of the Leeward Caribbee Islands
+in the West Indies; and accordingly, Archibald Esdail, Esq., a
+counsellor of St. Christopher's[51] claimed the administration of
+the government, and acted as such until his death, which happened
+about three months after; but he did not visit Antigua to take
+upon him the administration of the government, as he ought to
+have done by direction of the reigning monarch. Upon his decease,
+the lieutenant-governors being still absent, John S. Thomas,
+Esq., another resident of St. Christopher's, represented himself
+as first counsellor, and exercised the office of governor until
+April, the following year, (1797.) Nothing of any consequence
+occurred during his short administration, and very little can be
+said about him in this place, for, like his predecessor, he never
+honoured Antigua with his presence. The Kittefonians appeared to
+have had it all their own way at that period, for no sooner had
+Mr. Thomas breathed his last sigh, than another member of that
+community, Robert Thomson, Esq., followed the example set before
+him, represented himself as the oldest counsellor, and,
+consequently, entitled to the vacant government; in which office
+he continued until the arrival of the Right Honourable Lord
+Lavington, (who was formerly governor under the title of Sir
+Ralph Payne,) in 1801. During the three years Mr. Thomson was
+governor, he visited Antigua for about three days, in March,
+1800, so that the Antiguans had not much of their
+commander-in-chief's society; but the council and assembly appear
+to have gone on very well without him, and framed some very good
+laws.
+
+The first year of Mr. Thomson's government, Antigua had a visitor
+in the person of that indefatigable, but unfortunate traveller,
+Mungo Park. Mr. Park had embarked on board the "Charlestown," an
+American slaver, commanded by a Captain Harris, who was bound to
+Antigua with his live cargo. Upon nearing the island, the vessel
+struck upon a rock and narrowly escaped shipwreck; it was,
+however, at length got off, and brought into St. John's harbour,
+where part of the cargo was sold. Mr. Park remained in Antigua
+until the arrival of the "Chesterfield" packet, in which he took
+passage to England. He speaks of Antigua as the loveliest of all
+lovely isles.
+
+Whilst Mr. Thomson was residing at St. Kitts as
+commander-in-chief, the Antiguans were busy in again raising
+funds to defray the expenses of the war, which had been, and
+still were, very great. It was also enacted, that if any free
+coloured, or white person, killed or wounded a slave belonging to
+themselves or any one else, such offenders were to be considered
+as murderers, and, consequently, as worthy of punishment as if
+their victim possessed the fairest skin. That the life of a negro
+was no longer to be considered "in law" as the "life of a dog,"
+but that he was at length to be looked upon as human.
+
+Antigua has always been liable to droughts, and, in such season,
+serious losses have occurred from the slaves dying for want of
+good water; to remedy this evil, as far as laid in their power, a
+tax was imposed upon all sugar plantations and houses in the
+island, which did not possess one or more cisterns.
+
+This year (1798) appears to have been the first time that slaves
+were really tried by jury, which was then made to consist of six
+reputable white inhabitants. If upon trial they were found worthy
+of death, the justices of the peace were to acquaint the
+governor, or whoever might at such time be in command of the
+island, with the sentence, in thirty-six hours after it was
+pronounced, under a penalty of 20l. The provost-marshal was also
+obliged to attend such trial, under a fine of 20l.; and for his
+trouble he was to receive 3s. for summoning each juror, and 33s.
+for his attendance.
+
+In the middle of this year, a general council and assembly was
+held at St. Kitts; and amongst other affairs discussed, it was
+determined to pass certain regulations which would tend to
+ameliorate the condition of slaves.[52] All owners of slaves were
+to furnish a certain quantity of provisions for each slave, under
+a penalty of 10s. per head weekly, which was to be distributed
+among the negroes at the discretion of the master, and old and
+infirm slaves were to receive their full allowance. Perhaps it
+may not be uninteresting to some of my readers to know what was
+the weekly allowance the law allowed for slaves, and
+consequently, will insert it:--"Nine pints of corn or beans, or
+eight pints of peas, or wheat or rye flour, or Indian corn flour,
+or nine pints of oatmeal, or eight pints of Cassava flour or
+Farine, or eight pounds of biscuit, or twenty pounds of yams or
+potatoes, or sixteen pounds of eddoes or tanias, or thirty pounds
+of plaintains or bananas; and also one pound and a quarter of
+herrings, shads, mackarel, or other salted provision, or double
+the quantity of fresh fish or other fresh provisions," all of
+which were to be of good quality. Owners of slaves were not
+allowed to pay them in money, unless there was absolute necessity
+for so doing, under a fine of 20l.; but when circumstances
+obliged them to recompense their slaves by cash, each negro was
+to receive the sum of 4s.[53] weekly, and have two half days
+allowed them to come to market for the purpose of laying it out.
+The clothes allowed slaves for a year were, two jackets of
+woollen cloth, and two pair of trousers, made of Osnaburghs, for
+the men; and two woollen wrappers, and two Osnaburgh petticoats,
+for the women. If preferred by the slave, and agreed to by the
+master, a blanket and a cap were given in place of one suit of
+these clothes. When employed in agricultural work, half an hour
+was allowed for breakfast, and two hours for dinner, and they
+were not to be called to work before five in the morning, nor
+after seven in the evening, unless in crop time, or from evident
+necessity! If any owner of slaves cruelly whipped or imprisoned a
+slave without sufficient support, they were liable to
+imprisonment, or to be fined at the discretion of the justices
+before whom the case was tried; and if they deemed it necessary
+for the further protection of the slave, they could cause such
+slave to be sold at public auction. If any owner of slaves used
+unnecessary severities towards them, or put upon them iron
+collars, chains, or weights, such owner was liable to a fine not
+exceeding 100l. When any slave was attacked by illness, medical
+assistance was to be procured without loss of time; and whatever
+nourishment the doctor ordered, such as wine, &c., was to be
+given, under penalty of 50l. In cases of sudden death among the
+slaves, (when they had not been visited by a medical man
+forty-eight hours before,) notice was to be sent to the coroner
+or justice, when an inquest, of not less than three persons, was
+to be held on the body; should the owner neglect to do this,
+another fine of 100l. was imposed. With regard to the "marriage
+rites" of slaves, if their union can be called so, which was only
+nominal, owners were to encourage them to have only one husband
+or wife; and if faithful to each other, the woman was to receive
+four dollars for her first child, (provided it was alive six
+weeks after its birth,) and five dollars for each succeeding
+child under the same circumstances, and the slave and his wife to
+receive one dollar each at the end of the year. Should their
+master fail to do this, it was punished by a fine of 50l.; while
+the female who, in this state of conjugal fidelity, had borne six
+children, was exempt from any but light work upon her youngest
+child having obtained its seventh year.
+
+Religion appears also to have been encouraged among them; for no
+owner or manager of negroes was to restrain them from attending a
+place of worship on a Sunday, under a penalty of 5l.; and if any
+clergyman refused to baptize a slave which was supposed to be
+sufficiently informed, such clergyman was to forfeit 30s. To
+insure further their comforts, it was ordered that no estate was
+to be without a commodious sick-house, furnished with proper
+conveniences for the use of the sick, and a sufficient number of
+attendants, under direction of a white person, to minister to
+their wants. In omitting to do this, the owner of such estate was
+liable to a penalty of 100l. for the first offence; and 20s. for
+the latter. They were also obliged to return an annual account of
+the births and deaths of their slaves, and how the sick were
+treated, under fine of 100l.
+
+When a female slave proved _enceinte_ of her first child, her
+master was to provide her a house containing two rooms, and not
+compel her to go to the sick-house, under penalty of 20l. During
+pregnancy, they were not to be employed in the general work of
+the estate, but lighter occupation was to be found them; and no
+punishment was to be inflicted but imprisonment. So anxious did
+they appear for the comfort and well-being of their slaves, that
+it was further enacted, that sufficient clothing and provisions
+should be provided for them, even if the estate was in debt; and
+the costs for such articles was to be liquidated before any other
+claim.
+
+A melancholy catastrophe occurred during this year, at Antigua.
+Lord Camelford, then acting as commander of his majesty's sloop
+"Favourite," had a private quarrel with Lieutenant Peterson, of
+H. M. S. "Perdrix;" and some very unpleasant recriminations
+passed between the parties. Soon after this, Lord Camelford gave
+Lieutenant Peterson an order, which he unfortunately refused to
+obey, at the same time making use of some disaffected
+expressions; and the consequences were, that Lord Camelford shot
+him. His lordship was tried by a court-martial, and honourably
+acquitted; but he must have carried a blighted conscience with
+him, for--
+
+   "Alas! they had been friends in youth;
+    But whispering tongues can poison truth;
+    And constancy lives in realms above;
+    And life is thorny; and youth is vain:
+    And to be wroth with one we love,
+    Doth work, like madness, in the brain."
+
+It was this Lord Camelford, who, when travelling through Italy
+some years after, pointed out a spot in one of the fair valleys
+of Savoy, as the place where he wished to be buried; and
+accordingly, his remains were deposited there, amid Nature's
+loveliest works. The end of Lord Camelford was untimely; he fell
+in a duel, by the hands of Captain Best, a native of Barbados,
+whose ideas of honour obliged him to challenge a professed
+duellist, although he was himself a complete novice in such
+affairs. Captain Best's first fire, however, took effect, and
+Lord Camelford fell, mortally wounded. The quarrel originated
+with an unfortunate woman, a second Millwood in character; and
+Lord Camelford, who was the aggressor, confessed to his second,
+before the duel took place, _that he knew he was in the wrong,
+but he would not retract words he had once uttered_. It is said
+that Captain Best, the successful duellist, was never a happy man
+afterwards. He met with heavy domestic afflictions; but in his
+last moments he said to a friend, that all his sorrows would have
+appeared trivial, could he have wiped from his recollection all
+traces of that unfortunate duel.
+
+In 1798 sheep-stealing was made a capital crime in Antigua. It
+had been considered so in England since 1740; and the Antiguans
+found it necessary to punish such offence as that statute
+directed. In 1799, an assize of bread was constituted, which was
+intended to prevent bakers from taking undue advantage of the
+public. Many other regulations were agreed to, upon this head,
+such as not allowing any one to sell bread without licence;
+obliging bakers to put a mark upon their bread, and if changing
+such mark without further licence, to forfeit 50l. If such bread
+was imperfectly baked, to be fined as if deficient in weight; if
+damaged flour was used, the bread to be destroyed by a
+magistrate, and a fine imposed upon the baker of 20l.; and if a
+diseased person was employed in the bakehouse, another 20l.
+penalty was enjoined.
+
+In 1800, a law was passed to ascertain the number of negro slaves
+in Antigua; and the total number of births and deaths upon an
+average, for the last three years; when, upon taking the census,
+the number of negroes was found to be 37,000. About this year the
+legislature thought proper to increase the salary of the colonial
+agent to 200l. sterling, considering that the sum appointed for
+his recompence in 1698, namely 100l. sterling, was an
+insufficient compensation for the trouble. The agent at this
+period was the late Anthony Brown, Esq. Several serious accidents
+having occurred during the last few years from the custom of
+throwing about squibs, or other fireworks, it was determined that
+should any one in future, let their sex or quality be what it
+might, offend in this respect, such offender should be fined 40s.
+If any slave made or sold fireworks, they were to suffer such
+correction as the magistrate before whom the complaint was
+brought should deem proper.
+
+Thus ended Mr. Thomson's public career, after having held the
+government for nearly four years. As before remarked of Mr.
+Thomas, very little can be said about him; for he made St. Kitts
+head-quarters, in opposition to the orders which had been sent
+out by his majesty, to constitute Antigua the residence of the
+commander-in-chief; and did not repair to this island to take
+upon him the administration of the government.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[51] Perhaps it may be scarcely necessary to mention that St
+Christopher's is as frequently called St Kitt's as its real name.
+
+[52] This has been known throughout the West Indies as the famous
+"Melioration Act." This appears to have been the last time the
+general council and assembly for the Leeward Islands met.
+
+[53] A shilling currency is equal to sixpence sterling. It must
+be borne in mind, that all these specified sums are Antigua
+currency.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XII.
+
+
+
+  Governors: The Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington--William
+  Woodley--James Tyson--John Julius--Hugh Elliot--Sir James Leith
+  --Henry Rawlins--S. Rawlins--Major-General Ramsay.
+
+In 1801, the Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington was
+re-appointed to the office of commander-in-chief, to the
+gratification of the Antiguans, who, as before remarked, were so
+pleased with his government in 1771, when he was Sir Ralph Payne.
+Lord Lavington came to Antigua about the latter end of January;
+and soon after his arrival, it was agreed for the country to
+allow him an annuity of 1000l. to be paid quarterly out of the
+public treasury of the island; and a further sum of 300l. to be
+paid in like manner until a government house was built for his
+reception. And that his excellency might better support his
+dignity, another annuity of 700l. was granted him, as long as he
+remained within his government. About this time the practice of
+slaves stealing sugar and retailing it in the markets, or selling
+it to shopkeepers privately, was so general, that it was found
+necessary to lay a duty upon that article when retailed. If any
+person sold less than 100lbs. of sugar without having a licence
+for six months, and the further entering into a bond with one
+security for the sum of 50l., such person was liable to a penalty
+of 50l. for the first offence.
+
+It was this year that slaves were condemned to work in the
+streets, for the first time, as a punishment for offences. If any
+slave was committed to jail for refusing to give their owner's
+name, they were put to such work until claimed; when convicted of
+a crime less than felony, they were to be kept to hard labour in
+the streets for the space of three months; and if they had been
+sentenced to death, and afterwards pardoned by the governor, his
+excellency could annex to such pardon an order for the guilty
+slaves to work in the streets for any time he thought proper.
+These culprits were made to work in a gang, chained two and two
+together, and, at the close of the day, when their toil was over,
+they were conveyed to the common jail, and closely confined until
+the next morning, when their labours were resumed. When a slave
+was pardoned on condition of working in the street-gang for a
+certain time, their owners were paid a shilling a-day until the
+release of their slave.
+
+Doubts having arisen with regard to the validity of certain laws
+passed during the administration of A. Esdail, J. S. Thomas, and
+R. Thomson, on account of their not repairing to Antigua to take
+upon them the administration of the government, it was found
+necessary to obviate all doubts by framing another law, to
+confirm them, as also all civil and military commissions which
+had been granted during their government.
+
+The treaty of peace which had been signed between France and
+England in 1801 was not of long continuance. During the latter
+end of 1802, the French government began to act in a very
+menacing manner towards England; and from the military and naval
+preparations which were being carried on by Bonaparte, it was
+evident that war was intended. On the 13th of May, 1803, affairs
+were brought to a crisis, by Lord Whitworth, the ambassador at
+the French court, quitting Paris, by order of his sovereign; and
+immediately after, the French ambassador left England, and war
+was declared between the two powers. Notice to this effect was
+directly forwarded to Lord Lavington, by Lord Hobart, (late
+governor of Madras,) who at that period was one of the principal
+secretaries of state; and upon the arrival of the despatches,
+Antigua was put into a state of defence. Not wishing to declare
+martial law in force through the whole island, yet at the same
+time seeing the necessity of part of the militia being on
+service, it was thought proper to ordain, that in future it would
+be lawful for the governor, with the concurrence of the council
+and assembly, to call out a portion of it for the purpose of
+keeping guard, &c., and, by proclamation, requiring the whole
+body to hold themselves in readiness. It was also deemed
+necessary to revive an act, (which had expired upon the treaty of
+peace being signed at Amiens, March 25th, 1802, between England,
+France, Spain, and Holland,) laying a powder-tax upon all vessels
+trading to and from Antigua. Accordingly, all commanders of ships
+were obliged to pay into the hands of the receiver appointed one
+full pound of powder per ton, to the size of the vessel; half in
+cannon, and the other half in pistol powder.
+
+In 1804, Mr. Wilberforce's annual motion for the abolition of the
+slave trade, which was supported by Mr. Pitt and Mr. Fox, was
+carried by 124 to 46 voices; and a bill presented, limiting the
+period when ships would be allowed to clear out from any English
+port for this inhuman traffic, to October 1st of the same year.
+This bill passed the third reading in the house of commons, but
+was rejected in the house of lords on account of the lateness of
+the session. In Antigua the negro population had decreased 1000
+since the last year.
+
+In the early part of the following year, a French squadron,
+consisting of six sail of the line, and two frigates, contrived
+to elude the vigilance of Lord Nelson's blockading squadron; and
+leaving Rochefort (France), where they had been hemmed in for the
+last two years, proceeded to the West Indies. After having made a
+descent upon Dominica, and levied a heavy contribution upon the
+inhabitants, obliging the town of Roseau to surrender upon
+certain terms, the squadron proceeded for Antigua. Great were the
+fears of the inhabitants when this intelligence reached them; the
+court of king's bench and grand sessions were prevented from
+sitting their usual days on account of the alarm; the militia
+were called out, and the whole island put into a posture of
+defence. The French squadron, however, passed Antigua, and landed
+upon Nevis, and after laying the inhabitants under contribution,
+proceeded to St. Kitts, and lightened a little the pockets of the
+Kittifonians. The alarm had scarcely subsided, when news of the
+arrival of the Toulon fleet, under Admiral Villeneuve, in these
+seas, was received. Again Antigua prepared for war; but the
+ferment did not last long; Lord Nelson quickly followed the
+enemy; and upon his arrival at Barbados on the 4th of June, heard
+that Admiral Villeneuve had only reached Martinique. The name of
+this gallant officer so intimidated the French admiral, that he
+immediately quitted the West Indies, and was followed by Lord
+Nelson, who was in hopes of overtaking him, and chastising the
+French for their audacity.
+
+The departure of these squadrons gave the Antiguans a little
+rest, and enabled them to settle their island business. As peace
+was not likely to ensue at present, and knowing how liable they
+were to alarms like the foregoing, the governor, council, and
+assembly ordained, that in future whenever the court of king's
+bench and grand sessions were prevented from sitting on account
+of the fear of an invasion, it would be lawful for any three or
+more justices, provided three out of the number should be of the
+quorum, to meet at the court-house, and by proclamation, adjourn
+the sessions to a period not less than ten, or longer than
+fourteen days. An act also passed about this time, containing
+sixty-eight clauses, respecting the better regulating the militia
+in these times of danger.
+
+By order of his gracious majesty George III., Lord Lavington
+invested Sir Samuel Hood with the order of the Bath, as some
+reward for his gallant achievements in these seas. Upon this
+occasion his excellency Lord Lavington made a very powerful
+speech, which has been justly praised, but which is too long for
+insertion here. Antigua was visited (1805) by the very clever
+author of "The Chronological History of the West Indies," Capt.
+Southey. This gentleman mentions seeing a female slave, with an
+iron rivetted round her ankle, which had two bars, sharp at each
+point, crossing each other, and projecting about a foot in four
+directions. Her owner informed Capt. Southey it was to keep her
+at home, which was impossible to do without it. This historian
+alludes to the melioration act, which passed in 1798, prohibiting
+such punishments except, (and, as Mr. Southey justly remarks, the
+exception neutralizes the prohibition) _such as are absolutely
+necessary_.
+
+On the 13th of November, died Mr. John Baxter, the head of the
+methodists in Antigua. Mr. Baxter, who was by trade a shipwright,
+had been sent out from Chatham dock-yard to English Harbour in
+1778, and upon his arrival exerted himself in gathering together
+the little society of methodists which Mr. Gilbert had
+established, but which since his death had been scattered about
+for want of a pastor. A further notice of Mr. Baxter and his
+praiseworthy exertions will be found in another part of the work.
+
+In 1806, the abolition of the slave trade was again brought
+before the English parliament, and considerable progress was made
+towards its accomplishment. A bill was also passed prohibiting
+the exportation of slaves from the British colonies after the
+first of January in the succeeding year. On the 22nd of January,
+1807, the total abolition of the slave trade was accomplished,
+and the bill ordained that no slaves should be landed in any of
+the British colonies after the 1st of March, 1808.
+
+Thus this great work was ended, which had been annually discussed
+since 1787; and Mr. Wilberforce reaped the reward of his labours.
+For two hundred and forty-four years had England allowed this
+blood-stained traffic, and shut her ears to the cries of the
+distressed Africans; but a more glorious era had dawned--liberty
+was exerting her power, and paving the way to the future freedom
+of that despised race.
+
+About the middle of the year died the Right Honourable Ralph Lord
+Lavington, Baron of Lavington, one of his majesty's most
+honourable privy council, knight companion of the most honourable
+order of the Bath, captain-general and commander-in-chief of his
+majesty's Leeward Caribbee Islands. His lordship, it is said, was
+a very hospitable man, and very fond of splendour; his Christmas
+balls and routs were upon the highest scale of magnificence; but
+he was a great stickler for etiquette, and a firm upholder of
+difference of rank and _colour_. It is asserted, that he would
+not upon any occasion, receive a letter or parcel from the
+fingers of a black or coloured man, and in order to guard against
+such _horrible defilement_, he had a golden instrument wrought
+something like a pair of sugar tongs, with which he was
+accustomed to hold the presented article. In his household he was
+also very particular. He had, of course, an immense number of
+attendants, but he would not allow any of the black servants to
+wear shoes or stockings, and consequently his ebon footmen used
+to stand behind his carriage as it rolled along, with their naked
+legs shining like pillars of jet, from the butter with which, in
+accordance to his excellency's orders, they daily rubbed them.
+Lord Lavington entered upon his government the latter end of
+January, 1801, and resided at Antigua, with the exception of a
+short visit to Monserrat, until the day of his death. He died
+regretted by the "magnates of the land:" his tomb may still be
+seen at an estate called Carlisle's,[54] but the garden in which
+it stands is overgrown with weeds, and the surrounding walls are
+falling to ruins. Were I the possessor of Carlisle's, this should
+not be the case. If only in respect to the old and noble family
+of the Paynes, Lord Ralph's last resting-place should not be thus
+dishonoured; a few flowers should shed their sweets around; a few
+trees should shade that old grey tomb. There is a very handsome
+monument erected to his memory in the church of St. John's, which
+will be further mentioned in the description of that edifice.
+Lord Lavington's family, on his father's side, had long been
+resident in St. Christopher's, where they were of great eminence
+and distinction, having filled some of the highest offices in
+that island. They originally came from Lavington, in the county
+of Wilts, from whence the title, and are said to have been of
+great antiquity, tracing their descent from Ralph de Payne, a
+follower of William the Conqueror, who took his name it is said
+from Payne in Normandy. His lordship's intimate connexion with
+Antigua is derived from his mother, Alice Carlisle, of a family
+originally from the neighbourhood of Bridgewater, in
+Somersetshire, and whose lineage will be found in the Appendix,
+where it is given from the same source I have derived other
+genealogical information.
+
+After the decease of Lord Lavington, William Woodley, Esq., again
+resumed the reins of government; but he did not repair to
+Antigua, being in a delicate state of health. Sir Alexander
+Cochrane, with a squadron under his command, visited the island
+during this year on his return from taking the Danish West India
+colonies of St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix.
+
+In the month of March, 1809, Wm. Woodley, Esq., the then acting
+commander-in-chief, departed this life; and James Tyson, Esq.,
+represented himself as the first counsellor, and accordingly took
+upon himself the administration of the government, without
+repairing first to Antigua, as he ought to have done.
+
+In 1809, it was found necessary to award certain punishments to
+dealers in witchcraft. Obeah,[55] as it was termed, raged to a
+great extent among the negro population in these islands, and led
+many of them into the deepest crimes. To strike a blow at this
+infatuation, it was ordained, that if any negro pretended they
+had communication with any evil spirit by whose aid they could
+cause death, &c., such slave upon conviction was to suffer
+capital punishment; and if any slave prepared a mixture which was
+intended to cause death, although the poison did not take effect,
+such slave and their accessories were also liable to the same
+punishment.
+
+In the latter part of 1809, John Julius, Esq., another resident
+of St. Kitts, elected himself to the office of
+commander-in-chief, but neither did he repair to Antigua to take
+upon him the administration.
+
+About this period, the Antiguans, out of respect to their late
+respected governor Lord Lavington, agreed to allow his widow,
+Lady Frances Lavington, an annuity of 300l. sterling during her
+life, which was to be paid out of the treasury.
+
+The following year, 1810, Hugh Elliot, Esq., was appointed to the
+government of Antigua and the rest of the Leeward Islands. During
+his administration, it was again ordained, that no medical man
+should practice in this island without a licence; and no licence
+should be granted unless such persons as applied produced a
+certificate from the Surgeons' Hall, or from one of the
+universities in Great Britain, shewing his admittance in them.
+One reason for this regulation was, on account of the numerous
+cases of poisoning among the negroes; and it was conjectured that
+they procured deleterious drugs from some of the low venders of
+medicines, who, like Shakspeare's half-starved apothecary--
+
+   "If a man did need a poison
+    ------ would sell it him."[56]
+
+This wise regulation appears to have emanated from the governor,
+who saw the absurdity, if not _guilt_, of allowing the public to
+place their lives in the hands of the low "self-educated
+physicians," of whom, in those days, the medical body was pretty
+generally composed.
+
+Nor was this the only salutary step proposed by his excellency
+during his administration. Although, as before mentioned, the
+general assembly of the Leeward Islands had, during a meeting at
+St. Kitts, in 1798, passed the "Melioration Act," with the hopes
+of restricting the owners of slaves from excessive cruelty in
+their dealings with their negroes. No limits had been put to the
+_number of lashes_ to be given at _one time_, and for _one
+offence_, and accordingly some maliciously disposed persons had
+evaded the law, and treated their slaves in a most barbarous
+manner. The governor had full proof of this soon after his
+arrival, in the case of a member of the council, at Nevis, who,
+setting aside the laws of humanity, had caused "300 lashes of
+cart-whip, or nearly that number, to be inflicted in the public
+market-place (without the sentence of a magistrate) upon a
+considerable proportion of a gang of thirty-two negroes, who were
+all, more or less, severely punished, without having been
+convicted of any act, which, by the most forced construction,
+could be deemed mutinous, or dangerous to the community at
+large."
+
+In the governor's communications with the Earl of Liverpool, in
+1810, upon this subject, he alludes to the "Melioration Act," and
+deplores that the punishment of whipping was not restricted to 39
+lashes, as in the 14th clause of the "Consolidated Act," passed
+in Jamaica, in 1792; and further proposes, that the clause in
+question should be _immediately annexed_ to the "Leeward Island
+Melioration Act."
+
+That such was not done upon the passing of the act, cannot be
+laid to the charge of the representatives of Antigua, who fully
+coincided with Mr. Burke, the attorney-general of the Leeward
+Islands, in his proposal that such measure should be adopted, but
+which proposition was not carried into effect by the general
+council and assembly.
+
+In 1812, this suggestion of his excellency's, limiting the number
+of lashes to be given in the chastisement of a slave, was fully
+carried into effect. The Antiguans had had another example
+brought before them, where a Tortolian slave-master had murdered
+several of his negroes, in a most shocking manner, and cruelly
+ill-treated others; and the Antiguans appear to have been wishful
+of exterminating that plague-spot cruelty from their little
+island! For this reason, they forbad owners, jailors, or any
+other person who had the superintendence of such inflictions, to
+give their slaves _more than 39 lashes_ at one time, and for one
+offence; nor were they to repeat the punishment within 14 days,
+under a penalty of 100l. No slave was to receive more than six
+lashes at one time, for one offence, unless the owner's attorney,
+manager, or overseer, should be present It is strange, very
+strange, that so many dreadful deeds should have been practised
+in Antigua, and still so many laws been framed for the protection
+of the slaves, even long before the period I am now writing
+about. What answer are we to give to this enigma? Alas! alas! in
+many instances, we must again exclaim with Captain Southey, "_The
+exceptions neutralize the prohibitions_."
+
+In 1813, his excellency Hugh Elliot left the government, and John
+Julius again entered upon the administration, but he did not
+reside at or visit Antigua. This was the first year a police
+force was established; it consisted of five reputable white men,
+who had been recommended to the commander-in-chief, (or in his
+absence, the president of the island,) assisted by about as many
+discreet black or coloured persons. One of these white men was to
+be called "Clerk of the Police," and it was his duty to attend
+the sittings of magistrates on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays,
+and summon accused parties and witnesses. These police-officers
+had several duties to perform--such as taking up slaves who were
+found selling any article in the streets, on the working days,
+unless they could produce a pass from their owners; to forbid
+them selling fresh butter or milk, unless in possession of like
+certificate; and to turn out of the town, upon the ringing of the
+church bell at half-past nine at night, all country negroes, and
+oblige such as resided in the capital to retire to their houses.
+
+In the middle of June, 1814, Sir James Leith arrived in Antigua,
+to fulfil the office of captain-general and governor-in-chief
+over the Leeward Caribbee Islands, but he did not remain here
+much longer than a year, for, having suffered from indisposition,
+he obtained leave of absence, and embarked for England, where he
+shortly afterwards died. Nothing of much importance occurred
+during the period Sir James resided in the government. Admiral
+Cochrane was still stationed in these seas, and kept so strict a
+watch upon the enemy, that they were unable to distress this or
+the other islands.
+
+After the departure of Sir James Leith, another resident of St.
+Kitts, Henry Rawlins, Esq., acted as commander-in-chief. During
+his administration, an act was passed, founded upon that
+celebrated one of Lord Ellenborough's against cutting and
+maiming, punishing with death those who discharged fire-arms with
+intent to injure any one, setting fire to cane pieces or
+buildings, or perpetrating any other malicious deed.
+
+In the year 1814 was signed the treaty of peace between France
+and England, and once more Antigua was freed from her alarms and
+watchings. Henry Rawlins dying, Stedmans Rawlins exercised the
+government in 1816. Neither of these gentlemen, however, resided
+in this island. The yellow fever again made its appearance, and
+carried off a great many persons, particularly among the
+soldiers.
+
+In 1816, the general government of the Leeward Caribbee Islands
+was discontinued, and the Prince Regent, during the unfortunate
+indisposition of his father, appointed Major-General George W.
+Ramsay, governor-in-chief of Antigua, Monserrat, and Barbuda, who
+arrived in Antigua in the middle of the year. Soon after General
+Ramsay's arrival, it was agreed by the council and assembly to
+allow his excellency 5000l. currency per annum, which was to be
+paid quarterly, from taxes and fines for the deficiency of white
+servants, or duties on retailers of rum; and should these be
+insufficient, from other moneys in the public treasury. It was
+also enacted, that in the event of the death or absence of the
+commander-in-chief, the treasurer should pay to such person, to
+whom the government devolved, the sum of 3000l. currency per
+annum, as long as he remained in command, the better for him to
+support his dignity.
+
+About this period, it was currently reported in the mother
+country, that the West Indian proprietors were in the habit of
+holding _free_ black and coloured persons in slavery; and that,
+from the facilities afforded them by a state of peace, they also
+evaded the slave trade abolition laws, by smuggling negroes into
+these islands. To confute these reports, the Antiguans thought it
+best to introduce a registry of slaves, to be filled up at
+certain periods, with the name, sex, colour, and age of every
+slave, and how they were become possessed of. This registry was
+to be sworn to before a justice of the peace, by the proprietor
+or his representative; and if any person omitted making such
+return of their slaves, they were liable to a penalty of 200l.
+for every slave.
+
+During the temporary absence of his excellency Major-General
+Ramsay, T. Norbury Kerby, Esq., the treasurer of the island, held
+the government. It was thought proper, about this period, (1817,)
+to restrict the existing privilege of exporting slaves, and make
+it punishable to sell or send a slave off the island. If any
+slaves were thus exported, they became forfeited to the king, as
+well as the vessel which was to convey them away, and any
+officers of H.M. Customs could seize such ship and slaves. This
+did not, however, prevent any owner from carrying their domestic
+slaves off the island with them, or from hiring or employing
+their slaves as mariners; but they were to have their name and
+description indorsed on the clearance of the vessel which carried
+them away, under penalty of 100l., to both owner of slave and the
+master of the vessel.
+
+In concluding this chapter, I must be allowed to remark, that,
+let Antigua be what she may, since she has seen her error, she
+has never withheld manumission from her slaves; and, as we have
+just noticed, was the first among the West Indian Islands which
+endeavoured to spare that class the further pang of
+transportation.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[54] This estate belonged to his excellency Lord Lavington, and
+until within this last few years went by his name.
+
+[55] For further particulars respecting Obeah, see Chapter XXXII.
+
+[56] In 1676, a similar law had been brought into force, but from
+some cause had fallen into disuse. The penalty for practising
+without a licence was, at that period, confined to a forfeit of
+5000lbs. of sugar.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+
+  Governors: Sir Benjamin D'Urban--Sir Patrick Ross--Sir Evan
+  Murray McGregor--Mr. Light--Sir W. G. MacBean Colebrooke--Major
+  McPhail--Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy.
+
+After the death of Major General Ramsay in 1819, his gracious
+majesty George III. appointed Sir Benjamin D'Urban to the vacant
+government, who arrived at Antigua in the following year, 1820.
+
+During the administration of Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the census was
+taken, when the population was found to consist of 37,031 souls--
+viz., 4066 coloured, 1980 whites, and 30,985 negroes.
+
+A very efficient militia was also raised, consisting of 15
+staff-officers, 87 commissioned-officers, and 843
+noncommissioned-officers and privates; making in all, 945.
+
+The year 1825 is celebrated for the arrival of the first English
+bishop in the West Indies. During the preceding year, George the
+Fourth appointed, by letters patent, (bearing date 24th July,
+1824,) two bishops for the cure of souls in the British West
+Indies; the one to be styled the Bishop of Jamaica, &c., the
+other, the Bishop of Barbados and the Leeward Islands, having in
+his diocese the islands of Barbados, St. Vincent's, St. Lucia,
+Grenada, Dominica, Antigua, Monserrat, Nevis, St. Christopher's,
+and the Virgin Isles--Trinidad and Tobago, with their respective
+dependances.
+
+Upon the arrival of Bishop Coleridge in the West Indies, he
+remained for a short time at Barbados (as head-quarters), and
+then proceeded upon a tour to the respective islands which
+constituted his see. Prior to the appointment of a bishop in
+these colonies, the clergy officiating there were considered
+under the superintendence of the bishop of London; and that
+prelate, as well as the archbishops of Canterbury and York, could
+ordain "any person who should, on examination, be deemed
+qualified for the cure of souls, or officiating in any spiritual
+capacity in his majesty's colonies, or foreign possessions,
+although such persons might not have possessed the title required
+by the canons of the church of England, of such as are to be made
+ministers.
+
+Alas! how many were ordained, and deemed qualified for the "cure
+of souls," in the West Indies, who, by precept and practice, led
+their unhappy parishioners further into the power of the _enemy
+of souls_! who, whatever they might preach, _lived_ in open
+violation of the laws of God and man; and who, after indulging in
+the grossest sensuality throughout the six days of the week,
+presumed to enter into the pulpit on a Sunday, and, _pro
+tempore_, descant most learnedly and profoundly upon the
+_beauties of morality_! But enough of such disgracers of the
+sacred office--they have passed away to render an account of
+their stewardship before a holy and a righteous bar; nor should I
+have alluded to them, did I not wish to impress upon the minds of
+the Antiguans the blessing they enjoy in possessing a more
+enlightened and evangelical race of clergymen.
+
+To return to the bishop: a sum of 4200l. sterling per annum is
+placed at his disposal, to be distributed among the several
+ministers, catechists, and schoolmasters, as salaries, &c., with
+the proviso, that no minister shall receive more than 300l.
+sterling per annum, from such fund.
+
+By his patent the bishop ordains, confirms, and performs all
+those several functions peculiar to his office, as one of the
+successors of the apostles. The bishop is made a body corporate;
+has a common seal granted him, and is considered subordinate to
+the archbishop of Canterbury. An ecclesiastical jurisdiction over
+the clergy is also conferred upon him, and on the commissaries by
+him appointed; but such jurisdiction does not interfere with the
+provision of any local law which has received the royal
+confirmation. "In case of the absence of the bishop and his
+commissaries, the governor of Barbados is authorized to appoint
+any two clergymen to institute benefices, and to license
+curates."
+
+Sir Benj. D'Urban being recalled, Sir Patrick Ross was appointed
+governor and commander-in-chief. His excellency arrived at
+Antigua in the year 1826, and during his stay there, ingratiated
+himself with the _heads of the island_, by his courteous manners,
+and his humane desire to spare their feelings upon the
+all-engrossing topic of approaching emancipation.
+
+The year 1828 will be remembered by many Antiguans, as that in
+which the "Dandy Fever" prevailed. This most distressing and
+painful illness took its name from the strange gestures into
+which its excruciating agonies threw the unfortunate sufferers,
+and who, in their awkward attempts at walking, were likened by
+some facetious spirit to that nondescript race of men--the
+dandies!
+
+The year 1831 was the scene of an insurrection among the negroes.
+The cause of this disaffection among the black population was,
+the suppression of the Sunday markets, and the omission, on the
+part of the authorities of the island, to provide a day instead
+of the Sabbath, in which the negroes might bring the produce of
+their gardens and poultry yards into the capital to sell.
+
+The Sunday markets were indeed a nuisance most properly got rid
+of, for they engendered all kinds of dissipation among the lower
+classes on the Lord's day; yet is it to be wondered at that the
+negroes felt aggrieved in having the only day they could call
+their own taken from them, as it were, and no other portion of
+the week allotted to them?
+
+From muttered threats, and sullen looks of discontent, the
+negroes proceeded to acts of open violence. Incendiarism raged to
+a great extent; no sooner was one fire extinguished, than another
+was discovered in an opposite quarter. Martial law was in force;
+and the officers of the militia had then ample opportunities of
+shewing forth their valour, and winning laurels in the field of
+Mars.
+
+Great were the marchings and counter-marchings upon this
+occasion; mysterious the signs and counter-signs! Then there was
+such buckling on of spurs, and bracing on of swords--such
+displays of epaulets and aiguillettes, as would have surprised
+any one not accustomed to West Indian militia "turn outs."
+Generals galloped here, and colonels there; at one moment a party
+of gallant dragoons, armed to the teeth, and mounted--some on
+gaunt steeds of sixteen hands high, and others on diminutive
+ponies, dashed along the streets; at another, the governor and
+his brilliant staff might be seen hurrying forward as fresh
+intelligence arrived of other fires breaking out.
+
+At length something like order was restored. Many of the negroes
+were apprehended; and the supposed ringleader, after being
+brought to trial, was condemned and executed. He met his fate
+with resignation, but protested to the very last that he died
+innocent of the offence (arson) imputed to him; the other
+culprits were punished by public floggings and imprisonments.
+Thus was the insurrection of 1831 quelled, and peace once more
+established. Saturday was appointed for the principal market day;
+and the planters agreed to allow their people to visit the
+capital every, or every other week, to vend their little wares.
+
+In 1832, Sir Evan Murray McGregor was appointed to the government
+of the Leeward Islands, including Dominica. Sir Evan was a member
+of the McGregor family, so celebrated in Scottish history, and of
+which the redoubted Rob Roy was a chieftain. His excellency was a
+man of the strictest political principles, and of a most
+enlightened mind. He saw and felt the degradations laid upon the
+coloured people; and as far as lay in his power he mitigated
+their sufferings. It was not until his administration that
+coloured persons served as jurors.
+
+His kind feelings towards this portion of his majesty's subjects
+were not altogether agreeable to many of the self-constituted
+"exclusives;" and various were the schemes and projects to turn
+him from his purpose of rewarding the merits of the coloured
+class. But Sir Evan possessed an inflexible spirit, and neither
+frowns nor caresses could prevent him from dispensing justice to
+all, be their colour what it might.
+
+Acting upon these principles, his excellency, in 1834, appointed
+Mr. Loving, a gentleman of colour, chief of police, with a salary
+of 600l. per annum. This dreadful innovation of the governor's
+met with the strongest resistance from those persons who were led
+to look upon a man's merit as inseparably connected with his
+white descent; and no efforts were spared upon their part to
+endeavour to persuade Sir Evan to rescind the appointment. This,
+however, was not to be effected, and many a breast burned with
+secret indignation against the man who had dared to throw down
+the partition wall between the _immaculate_ whites, and a
+descendant of Afric's despised children!
+
+But it was not colour alone that formed the grand objection to
+this gentleman's appointment. Mr. Loving had been for some time
+the editor of a paper, and in such capacity had raised his voice
+against the system of slavery, and advocated in a firm, but mild
+spirit, the cause of emancipation, in a country where nearly all
+its principal inhabitants were slave-holders. Upon the strength
+of the old adage, "What can't be _cured_ must be _endured_," Mr.
+Loving was allowed to remain quietly in his situation, until time
+brought about mighty changes, and made the Antiguan
+slave-holders, like himself, friends to freedom.
+
+The following year, 1833, was noted for the severe shocks of
+earthquake felt at Antigua, as well as at most of the other
+islands throughout the chain. These earthquakes were followed by
+a season of dry weather, which crushed the hopes of the planters,
+and rendered in great measure the fertile little island a barren
+waste.
+
+1834 is celebrated throughout the British West Indies as the year
+of the abolition of slavery, and more particularly by the
+Antiguans, who, laying aside all claims to apprenticeship, gave
+their negroes _immediate freedom_. For this consummation had many
+worthy men toiled and sighed--for this had Sharpe, Clayton,
+Wilberforce, Buxton, Lushington, and many others, written and
+spoken, until wearied nature had often sunk, almost exhausted--
+and now the bright day of liberty had arrived, and the great and
+glorious triumph, which for so many years had been as a beacon
+before the minds of philanthropic men, had been achieved; but
+alas! of those who would have sung jubilee on the fulfilment of
+their wishes, many had yielded up their noble spirits, and passed
+to the silent tomb.
+
+The year following emancipation (1835) was the scene of a violent
+hurricane, which raging with extreme fury throughout the greater
+part of the night, caused great loss to many of the inhabitants.
+Soon after the hurricane, the yellow fever broke out with great
+malignancy, and hurried many a young and gifted one from the
+family circle.
+
+During the period Sir Evan McGregor administered the government,
+he endeavoured to restore the custom of holding a general council
+and assembly, to convene at certain times, at one of the several
+islands within his jurisdiction; and also to make the island of
+Dominica head-quarters. His excellency's view and wishes upon
+this subject were, however, overruled by the home government;
+although it was permitted him to make Dominica his place of
+residence should such be his desire. Soon after his removal to
+the latter colony, he received the higher appointment of Governor
+of Barbados, to which seat of government he repaired, leaving
+Antigua to a kind of interregnum, which was filled up by the
+president of the island.
+
+During his excellency's administration, he also recommended the
+legislature to enact a law to govern elections--a deficiency in
+the laws of Antigua complained of by a large portion of the
+inhabitants; the qualifications of voters being entirely governed
+by resolutions of the house, as best suited the purposes of its
+members. In contested elections, freeholders, it is said, were
+frequently left to unconstitutional resolutions of the assembly,
+who, paying no attention to former precedents, adopted such
+measures as would best secure the interests of their own
+party.[57] There are, however, laws for the protective privileges
+of freeholders for other distinctive purposes, such as exemptions
+from arrest, &c.
+
+In 1836, Henry Light, Esq., arrived at Antigua to play his part
+upon the stage of colonial life as lieutenant-governor. His lofty
+pretensions to liberal principles, and his condescending
+greatness to the _mixed blood_ in admitting a few members of that
+class to "his table," evinces much insincerity, for in his
+private despatches to Lord Glenelg, he reprobates, with but one
+or two exceptions, that body of persons, in terms as ill-founded
+as they are illiberal. Nothing of importance occurred during Mr.
+Light's sojourn at Antigua; he has subsequently been appointed to
+the government of British Guiana, where he has had an opportunity
+of shewing forth his philanthropy, as well as of acquiring fame.
+
+The year 1837 marked the appointment of Sir William MacBean
+George Colebrooke to the office of governor-in-chief of the
+Leeward Islands. Of the same liberal principles as Sir Evan
+McGregor--firm, dignified, and polished--of courteous demeanour
+and pleasing address, Sir William was formed to command respect,
+and conciliate the affections of all classes. In his official
+proceedings, he was ever actuated by prudence; and with the
+welfare of the colonies, over which he presided, at heart, he
+pursued his way in that open, straightforward manner, which, to
+an honourable mind, is of such inestimable value.
+
+In the first year of Sir William Colebrooke's administration, a
+bank was established in Antigua by royal charter; thus rendering
+obsolete an act which had been passed in the early part of the
+reign of George III., for preventing the circulation of paper
+bills of credit in the colonies. Prior to this period, no
+governor could assent to such circulation, under forfeiture of
+1000l., the being dismissed his government, and declared
+incapable of holding any other public office or place of trust.
+
+In the following year, his excellency deemed it proper to abolish
+the militia; a measure which saved the treasury of the island a
+considerable sum annually; and accordingly, on the 1st of July,
+1838, that body ceased to exist, and an end was put to all
+martial glory and deeds of arms among the store-keeper captains
+and planter colonels of Antigua. It was not until some time after
+the revocation of the militia, that the legislature remembered to
+call in the arms from the privates; and accordingly, when such
+orders were issued, great defalcation was discovered; the few,
+however, collected, were consigned to a far different purpose
+from what they were originally intended--being formed into a
+fence before the arsenal, where they remain, with their bayonets
+pointing to the skies, as mementos of the warlike acts of the
+island.
+
+Sir William Colebrooke entertained similar opinions as Sir Evan
+McGregor, upon the expediency of there being one general council
+and assembly among the islands under his jurisdiction; and
+consequently, strenuous exertions were made by him, to carry his
+plans into effect. The acquiescence of the home government to
+this measure was so relied upon by his excellency, that before
+accounts could be received from England, despatches were
+forwarded to the other Leeward Islands, calling upon the members
+of their respective legislatures to visit Antigua, in order to
+hold the first general council and assembly. The legislators of
+St. Christopher's were the first to obey the summons, and some of
+that body were actually in the boat about to convey them on board
+the vessel in which they had taken passage for Antigua, when the
+packet with the European mails was observed in the offing.
+Anxious to receive their letters before their departure for
+another colony, they determined to wait until the post-master
+distributed them--a resolution which saved them a fruitless
+voyage; for, from despatches from Sir William Colebrooke, they
+learned that the English parliament had refused to acknowledge
+any general assembly.
+
+In 1840, Sir W. Colebrooke returned to England; and Major
+McPhail, the lieutenant-governor of Dominica, was called to
+administer the government for the time being. His excellency was
+also a man of liberal principles--one who was inflexible in
+performing his official duties without partiality, and earnestly
+desirous of promoting the public good, and effecting a kind
+feeling among all classes. As a private character, his courteous
+and pleasing demeanour endeared him to all who held communion
+with him; and when he quitted the government, he carried with him
+the best regards and earnest wishes of every member of the
+Antiguan community. Nothing of particular moment occurred during
+his administration, with the exception of the dreadful fire in
+1841, (further noticed in these pages,) and the strictness with
+which the police laws (respecting the capture of animals found
+strolling in the public streets) has been carried into force.
+Great has been "the hue and cry" among the swinish multitude; and
+day after day has the intelligence arrived that another
+unfortunate pig has been imprisoned within the walls of the
+pound, without any regard to the feelings of the said quadruped,
+or its family. Even Sunday--that day of rest--was no rest to
+them, or the parties whose duty it was to capture them; and so
+far was the disturbance carried, which such exploits caused, that
+some good people took the trouble to write and disseminate
+papers, calling upon policemen, magistrates, &c., to observe to
+keep holy the Sabbath, and not allow pigs to be hunted before the
+very doors of the churches and chapels, even when service was
+being performed.
+
+Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy, who has succeeded as
+governor-general of the Leeward Islands, is a branch of a high
+and noble English family. The accounts which have preceded him of
+his many virtues, bids fair for Antigua enjoying, in the person
+of her majesty's representative, a good and liberal governor--one
+who will dispense justice without regard to caste or complexional
+prejudice--rewarding merit wherever it may be found--measures
+which, it is said, have been overlooked by many of his
+predecessors until within these last few years.
+
+Sir C. A. Fitzroy is lineally descended, in the female line, from
+Brigadier-General Crosby, (who had been appointed to the command
+of the Leeward Island government, in 1730,) as will be seen on a
+reference to his genealogy, in the Appendix.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[57] It must be remarked, that the house passed these resolutions
+after a member had been duly returned upon former precedents, so
+that if the returned member was obnoxious from his liberal
+principles, fresh regulations were determined upon in order to
+dispossess him of his seat. These are the evils incident upon
+having no laws to govern elections.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+
+  My first voyage to Antigua--Visit upon deck--The booby's
+  welcome--Nearer approach--Harbour of St. John's--The Black
+  Pilot--North Sandy Island--Wreck of the mail-boat--Dangerous
+  navigation--Long Island--South Sandy Island--Panoramic views
+  from the vessel's deck--Light winds--Disappointment made
+  pleasing--Anchorage for the night
+
+Having noticed the most important of its historical events, I
+must now be allowed to give some description of the appearance of
+Antigua, and of my first visit to its shores. After a voyage of
+many weeks, early one morning we were agreeably saluted with the
+cry of "land!" Sleep was immediately banished from my eyes, and
+with a beating heart I waited until the day should "pour in
+apace," and allow me the pleasure of viewing for the first time
+one of those tropical islands I had often thought of with
+delight. A fair wind filled our sails, and we rapidly gained upon
+the distant object, which (when I first peeped up the companion
+ladder) looked like one of those shadowy clouds I had so
+frequently seen resting, as it were, upon the bosom of the ocean,
+at the utmost verge of the horizon.
+
+By this time the sun was fast mounting up the sky, and shone with
+all its fervour upon the glassy waves below; and as we
+noiselessly glided on, the mountains began to assume a distincter
+form, and proved beyond doubt that we were near the end of our
+voyage.
+
+A bustle upon the deck, the trampling of many feet, the rattling
+of ropes, and the sound of strange voices, and a stranger
+dialect, announced the arrival of the pilot; and unable any
+longer to suppress the longing desire I had to behold Antigua
+from a more eligible situation than my peep-hole, I hastily tied
+on my bonnet, and spite of the increasing heat, sought my
+companion upon the deck. Seated upon a hen-coop, which had been
+arrayed in all the glories of bright green paint, I prepared to
+look about me; when suddenly I felt a peculiar sensation, which
+told me, that, like "Achilles," I was anything but invulnerable
+in my heel. A "booby," or gannet, an aquatic bird, which had been
+captured the night before, and placed in "durance vile" within
+the self-same coop, was bidding me welcome to her native clime,
+by unceremoniously inserting her bill into that very susceptible
+part; and as I was not stoic enough to receive such favours
+unmoved, she expressed her displeasure by a doleful unharmonious
+scream. "Well," thought I, "this is not the pleasantest welcome
+possible," and turning my eyes towards the land, "nor this the
+most interesting looking island in the world." In fact, it looked
+dull and dreary; its mountains appeared barren and sunburnt; and
+the distance prevented me from seeing the valleys and dingles
+which in some degree redeem it from insipidity.
+
+Our gallant vessel, however, still kept on her way, and--
+
+   "Walk'd the waters like a thing of life;"
+
+and as we approached the land, the scene changed for the better.
+Bright green patches of the sugar-cane appeared amid the brown of
+the foremost mountains; while the more distant of the chain
+presented that harmonious blending of a thousand dyes, which
+poets love to sing, and painters love to study. As it happened to
+be that season of the year when the sugar harvest was in
+progress, the white sails of the various mills glittered in the
+sunbeams, and upon the eminences the manager's house (or in the
+language of the country, the "great house") looked down upon its
+little hamlet of negro huts, picturesquely embosomed in trees.
+
+On, on we glided; the merry breeze piping in our ears, and the
+snow-white foam curling and writhing around our prow, until at
+length we came so near that we could see and almost count the
+waves as they dashed upon the silver sands of the surrounding
+bays. In one part a number of tall cocoa-nut trees stretched
+their long arms to the blast, whilst upon every side of us the
+light skiffs of the fishermen danced like cockle-shells upon the
+buoyant waters, and their dusky masters intently pursued their
+trade of entrapping the finny race.
+
+Our good breeze did not desert us; and rapidly and surely we made
+way, until we passed over the bar, and entered the harbour of St.
+John's. What a busy scene now presented itself to my view; the
+various ships from England, Scotland, Ireland,[58] and America,
+distinguished by their several flags; the boats and droughers[59]
+hurrying backwards and forwards with their loads; whilst the
+hallooing of the sailors, and the screaming of the negro
+watermen, conspired to render it the very imagery of discord.
+
+The town of St. John's, with its white houses and green
+jalousies, lay stretched before us, surmounted by its neat and
+pretty church; and upon our left the Fort of St. James and Rat
+Island. While looking at the latter, up went a flag, which,
+fluttering in the breeze, announced to the good people of St.
+John's the arrival of a ship from "_home_" as the Antiguans
+always call England. Several boats now joined us from the shore,
+conveying friends to welcome us to Antigua; a harbour-master, (a
+very agreeable and worthy personage by-the-bye,) to make certain
+inquiries; custom-house officers, (of a superior class of men to
+those who board vessels in the Thames, and are so disagreeably
+distinguished by their undeviating devotion to that herb, which
+Sir Walter Raleigh, in his excessive overflow of human kindness,
+is said to have introduced into England,) to see that if you
+smuggled yourselves on shore, you did not smuggle your goods; and
+plenty of black boys, to grin and chatter, and get all the
+biscuit and beef they could.
+
+But I must not omit to give a more particular account of the
+black pilot. A very pompous personage he was, and one who no
+doubt stood vastly high in his own estimation, as he lent upon
+the rail of the vessel, with his large straw hat, and gigantic
+snuff-box, giving orders to the sailors, and in the interim
+discussing the news of the island. "Hab fine rain last night; you
+bring good _wedder_--(war for you 'tand staring dere for, you
+black nigger ?)--yes, feber berry bad last month, many buckra die
+--(war you go do, run de ship on de shore?)--Crop bery good dis
+year; ship load fast 'nough--(why you no haul dat rope good?)--
+Yes, gubbernor bin bery bad; better now tho'." And thus he ran
+on, until, the proper place gained, down dropped the ponderous
+anchor, a boat received us, and in a short time landed us "all
+well" upon one of the wharfs of Antigua, amid blacks and whites,
+porters and boatmen, and boys and girls clad "� la Venus."
+
+The harbour of St. John's is reckoned one of the finest and most
+commodious in the West Indies. The entrance is defended by Goat
+Hill Fort on the south, and St. James Fort on the north; across
+the mouth of it runs a shoal, known as the bar, which extends
+from a bay called Hog John, to Fort James. The depth of water
+upon this bar is only from seven to fourteen feet; and
+consequently, ships, when they are partly laden, pass over this
+shoal, and take in the remainder of their cargo off Dickenson's
+Bay. The principal trade of the island is carried on at this
+port, the harbour is generally full of shipping; and during the
+hurricane months, many vessels from the neighbouring islands come
+here for safety. The approach to it is, however, intersected with
+numerous rocks, and about three miles from its mouth lies a small
+island, surrounded by reefs and breakers, to which the name of
+"Sandy Island" has been attached. It was upon these reefs that,
+in 1826, the "Maria" mail boat was wrecked, and, with her hapless
+crew, went to the bottom. She had been down to St. Thomas and the
+other Islands with the mails for England;[60] and upon her
+return, putting into Monserrat, took on board the Wesleyan
+missionaries, and their wives and children, who had been to St.
+Kitts to attend their yearly district meeting, and who were
+desirous of returning to Antigua, the scene of their labours.
+They had left St. Kitts a few days before, in a small vessel
+hired for the purpose; but finding it rather "crank," they were
+unwilling to proceed, and determined to wait at Monserrat for the
+arrival of the "Maria."
+
+But who can look into futurity? who can tell what may be in store
+for him? The _crank_ vessel reached Antigua in safety; the mail
+boat and all on board, with the exception of one solitary female,
+perished in the treacherous waters, almost within sight of their
+own homes--within hearing of the church bell. I never pass the
+spot without shuddering, and fancying what must have been the
+feelings of that _one_ who was spared to tell the dreadful tale.
+A woman of lively imagination and affectionate disposition, she
+saw friend after friend washed away by the remorseless waves. The
+pride of manhood!--the shrinking delicacy of woman!--the
+helplessness of infancy!--all of no avail!--a splash--a bubble--
+and all was over, and their bodies filled the maw of some
+rapacious monster, or rested in some coral cave beneath the
+waters, there to remain until that great day, when sea and earth
+must give up their dead. Of the ill-fated voyagers, all who
+remained were, she who was destined to be the sole survivor, her
+husband, and the master of the vessel. Worn out by mental agony,
+and unavailing exertions to attract the notice of the many
+fishing-boats and other vessels which were constantly passing
+within their sight, but which either did not perceive or would
+not assist them, the master of the vessel gave himself up to the
+dominion of the "giant despair," and losing his hold of the
+wreck, was quickly carried away by the waves. One more victim was
+required--and that was the dearest, the best beloved--her husband
+died in her arms, and after holding him for many a painful
+minute, and struggling for mastery with the billows to retain the
+much-loved corpse, nature became exhausted, and she sank into a
+state of insensibility. In this state she remained until the crew
+of some passing vessel raised an alarm upon their gaining shore.
+A party of gentlemen went in search of the supposed wreck, and
+finding the inanimate female, quickly conveyed her to the main
+land, where every care was lavished upon her, and happily not
+without success.
+
+No one can read the affecting details of the sufferings of this
+unhappy crew (an account of which Mrs. Jones, the name of the
+lady, afterwards published) without feeling deep sorrow at the
+event. At the same time, no one dares to ask "why was it so?" All
+we can allege is,
+
+   "God moves in a mysterious way."
+
+This melancholy catastrophe was known at St. Kitts as soon as (if
+not before) it was at Antigua: the dead body of a child (one of
+the unfortunate passengers) conveyed the first direful tidings.
+
+Sandy Island is by no means the only sentinel which Nature has
+placed to guard her favourite land from the sudden inroads of the
+enemy, the whole of the north side of Antigua being surrounded by
+rocks and breakers, which make it dangerous navigation. On this
+account ships generally come down the south side of the island,
+although some masters of vessels, from the impulse of a daring
+spirit, or from a want of knowledge, pursue the other course, and
+often have to lament the issue.
+
+On the northern and eastern sides of Antigua a great number of
+small islands are scattered, and it is from some of these that
+the smooth yellowish free-stone, of which the Court-house is
+built, is obtained; this free-stone is proved to be composed of
+carbonate of lime and oxyde of iron. The principal of these
+islands are, Pole-cat Isle, Goat's Isle, Guana[61] Isle, Maiden's
+Isle, Cochran's Isle, and Long Island.
+
+In 1700, Long Island, then the property of the Honourable Edward
+Byam, was sold by him, and it is now in the hands of the
+Honourable Bertie E. Jarvis. Since the Emancipation Act came into
+operation, a great part of it has been let out at an annual rent
+to the negroes, who plant it with provisions. It is noted for a
+peculiar breed of sheep, its rabbit-warrens, and the number of
+sea-side grape trees (_Coccolobo uvifera_) which grow in all
+directions. In former times, there was a mill and sugar works
+upon it, (the ruins of which are still to be seen,) and more than
+a thousand hogsheads of sugar have been known to be shipped from
+thence in one year. This apparent improbability has been thus
+accounted for: large quantities of sugars used to be smuggled
+from Martinique and Guadaloupe, and landed safely and silently
+upon Long Island, which is particularly favourable for such
+adventures. These sugars were afterwards shipped to England as
+the _produce of the island_, by the following evasion of the law.
+It was customary at that period, to swear before one of the
+magistrates, as to the quantity of sugar made and intended to be
+shipped; and the certificate was then taken to the collector of
+her majesty's customs, who, seeing the signature of the
+magistrate, allowed all was correct. The parties who were
+possessed of this smuggled sugar, and who were wishful of
+transporting it to its destined market, would come before a
+justice and assert that the seven or nine hogsheads which they
+intended shipping on board such vessel were the real growth of
+Long Island; the customary oaths were therefore administered, the
+magistrate signed his name, and the cocket was presented to the
+shippers to hand over to the collector. On the road to the
+custom-house, however, with ready pen they added a _ty_ to the
+seven or nine (or whatever it might be) in the space which was
+cunningly left for that purpose, making it of course _seventy_ or
+_ninety_; and as no questions were asked by the collector, they
+were in this manner enabled, from 100 hogsheads of the actual
+growth of the island, to ship from time to time more than the
+above number of 1000 hogsheads. This practice of evading the law
+(while they soothed their own consciences) gave rise to these
+shipments being called the "T. Y. sugar," as will be remembered
+by many to this day.
+
+Guiana and Cochran Island also produced sugar at one time; and in
+1725, it was enacted by the legislature, that if the proprietors
+of those islands, as well as Long Island, suffered any loss from
+the inroads of the enemy, they should be reimbursed from the
+public treasury as well as any other inhabitant of Antigua.
+
+Following the line of coast from the north, before we once more
+make the harbour of St. John's, we meet with, another "guard," in
+the shape of a small island, bearing direct west from English
+Harbour, with a reef running three miles into the sea, and which
+is known as _South_ Sandy Island. This is also very dangerous to
+unwary mariners, particularly when the storm king rides the
+blast, and "warns the devoted wretch of woe and death."
+
+But, with all its rocks and breakers, beautiful, very beautiful
+are the scenes which present themselves to your notice, as,
+seated upon the deck of some vessel, whose graceful sails are
+filled with a fresh and favourable breeze, you skirt along the
+sunny shores of lovely little Antigua. It has happened, in some
+of my frequent trips around the island, that, although the breeze
+has been fair, it was so light as scarcely to lift the canvas
+from the mast. But yet, the disappointment of not gaining land so
+soon as we expected has been amply compensated for by the
+beauties we have had more time to discover. Overhead is the
+sweet, clear blue of the sky, here and there dotted with a cloud
+so fair, that it might serve to pillow a sleeping Juno; and
+beneath, the crystal waters sparkling like gold in the beams of
+the blazing sun. In some parts, the green mountains descend to
+the very shore; while in others a calm and silent glen opens upon
+your sight, and the zephyr comes laden to you with the scent of
+its various flowers. Numerous creeks run far inland, and appear
+amid the surrounding verdure like chains of silver; and here and
+there a few negro huts lie nestling among a clump of splendid
+trees, with their neat-looking provision-grounds spread before
+them. As you pass Grace Bay, the land looks sprinkled over with
+gold, from the flowers of the aloe, (_aloe vulgaris_,) which
+grows there in vast profusion; and the shore is bordered with
+sand, on which Amphitrite and her train might love to dance, and
+wreathe their flowery locks with the dropping seaweeds. And thus
+we while away the day, enjoying an ever-changing panorama, until
+the glorious sun reaches the west, and throws his rich beams on
+every cloud which "throngs to pavilion him." Suddenly he appears
+to touch the bosom of the flaming waves; and then sending forth
+one long vivid line of glory, sinks to rest on his golden couch.
+
+Now comes "still evening" on, and Hesperus and all "the starry
+host" people the heavens, until at length the moon
+
+   "Shews her broad visage in the crimson'd east,"
+
+and robs them of their brightness. And there she paces through
+those azure fields, not with the cold, pale aspect she wears in
+my own severer clime, but with the glow, the fervour, with which,
+in other days, she was wont, as "fabling poets" sing, to visit
+Endymion on the flowery heights of Latmus. Lovely is it, at such
+a time, to lean over the vessel's side, and watch the limpid
+waves, as they throw up their sparkling foam. All turbulent
+passions die away--a pleasing calm ensues--and then, casting
+aside all heathen folly, and allowing the mind to revel at its
+will, come thoughts, indistinct, but beautiful, and dreamy
+imaginings of that happy land, where
+
+   "The crystaline stream, bursting forth from the throne,
+    Flows on, and for ever will flow;
+    Its waves, as they roll, are with melody rife,
+    And its waters are sparkling with beauty and life,
+    In the land which no mortal may know."
+
+But earth's chains are still about us, and the fairest scenes may
+prove the most deadly. A kind voice warns me of the increasing
+cold of the night-breeze; and as the last inch of the cable
+slides through the hawse-hole, and the tremor of the vessel, as
+it is suddenly stopped in its course, shews we have anchored for
+the night, I leave the cool air upon deck for the confinement of
+the cabin, with a prayer of thankfulness upon my lips for my
+frequent safe trips across the "blue waters," and a hope that
+to-morrow's dawn will bring us safely to shore.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[58] The Scotch and Irish, in addition to the Union Jack, hoist a
+distinctive national signal.
+
+[59] Droughers are small vessels used for conveying the produce
+of the island from the neighbouring bays to the shipping.
+
+[60] At that period, the mails from the different islands were
+conveyed to St. Thomas's, in small vessels employed for that
+purpose, from whence they were despatched to England in one of
+her Majesty's packets.
+
+[61] Formerly called Guiana Island, from the English settlers who
+emigrated thither from Guiana, when that country was surrendered
+to the Dutch by the treaty of Breda. The name is now corrupted to
+Guana.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XV.
+
+
+
+  The extent of Antigua--Opinion of some planters--Want of
+  agricultural labourers--Emigration not always profitable to the
+  negroes--"Seizar's" letter upon the subject--Return of
+  emigrants--Soil of Antigua--Geological matters--Petrifactions--
+  Climate of Antigua--"Yellow fever"--Beautiful evenings--the
+  appearance of the heavens--Evening visitants.
+
+Antigua, as already shewn in another part of this work, contains
+about 60,000 acres: of which, probably, four-fifths are in a
+state of cultivation. It was the opinion of many planters, soon
+after emancipation, that the mountainous estates must, in great
+measure, be neglected, as the steadiness of the negroes is not
+always to be relied upon; and from the difficulties of the land,
+the plough would be almost useless. These prognostications have
+not been fulfilled--at least, no such instance has ever come
+under my notice; on the contrary, in my rides through the country
+I have seen many spots of land, which once bore only grass or
+wild shrubs, planted with canes, and bearing the title of "a
+sugar estate," which, I feel assured, had slavery continued,
+would never have been cultivated.
+
+Still agricultural labourers are wanted; many of the negroes that
+were thus employed, while in a state of bondage, think it a
+disgrace to follow such patriarchal occupations now they are
+free. They therefore quit the country, take up the business of a
+mason or a carpenter, or something of the sort; and the result
+is, that not being competent, they are unable to procure work,
+and are idling about the street all day, until some vessel from
+the southern colonies, looking out for emigrants, holds out the
+temptation of _high wages_, which is ignorantly caught at by the
+negro; and he leaves his native island, his wife and children,
+without remorse, until sickness seizes him, and he is returned
+upon the country an emaciated being, unable to work at all.
+
+Emigration is not always profitable to the negro, even if he
+retains his health. Many, many of them, would gladly return, were
+they not bound for a certain number of years by the captains of
+the emigration vessels, (who make a complete trade of it by
+selling their indentures,) or else taken so far up the country as
+too often prohibit such resolve. A clever letter appeared in one
+of the West Indian newspapers some time ago, supposed to have
+been written from a negro at St. Kitts to his friend of the same
+dye, who had emigrated to Demerara, which I will insert for the
+amusement of the reader:--
+
+                                         "Sink Hitts, July ----.
+
+"Deer Pomp Eye,
+
+"You no I tould you how it wood be, but you all ways were a wild
+nagur, and wood neber hear reeson, and lubbed to follow your
+hedstrong ways. But now you are suffering for it, an I hope
+you'll repent, as good Massa Parson says. You no you had no right
+to run away and leabe you yong pic'nees here to starbe. It was a
+most wicked act, but I 'spose the Capen who took you away will be
+made to support 'em as he ought. You are all no better dan
+Caraline who sent our fren Mushel's pic'nee widout him knowing at
+all 'bout it, to Jimmy Radder (Demerara), having sold him me
+magin to de Capen. What you say 'bout de Spaniards is all bery
+true, an likely to happen, an me tink wid you our Capens are not
+to be trusted, for you no what our fren Fletcher did for which he
+get hang--how he carry off Nagers from Nevis, and trowed dem in
+de sea and drowned dem. Now me no tink dese Capens will trow de
+Nagurs in de sea, but me tink it bery like dat dey will hab
+private signell wid de Spaniards, who will way lay an take de
+nagurs away at sea--for de Spaniards will gib de Capens two times
+as much for de free Nagurs to make slabes of dem, as de Capens
+can get in Jimmy Radder. I hab seen de skul of Fletcher, for me
+be sumthing of a _free-no-low-gist_ (phrenologist), and I assure
+you de skul of dese Capens hab gist de same _bumps_. And not only
+dis, Massa Pomp Eye, but dere is de law of Englan dat a vessel
+shall carry passengers cording to he size, dat is, so many Nagurs
+to so many tun, now dese Capens do break dis law an dese vessels
+is lible to be seezed and comphiz catted. Dis law was made as me
+told, to make all de peeple cumfurble dat all may hab room to
+walk 'bout an lie down, an sleep, an eat, an go safe, an to
+perwent de Capens from sack wry facing dem passengers, and no
+noting 'bout dere bizness, for see how dey cram de Nagurs in like
+toze in de shu, an only de oder day a vessel ful of Nagurs sprung
+a plank off Mons' rat an was sinking fast an de Capen noed noting
+at all 'bout it until a noder ship met him an told him he was
+going down and dat all he poor Nagurs wood be drown. Oh! Pomp
+Eye, de Nagurs here be great fool for leabing dis bootiful
+country for sich muddy place as Jimmy Radder. Here dey hab plenty
+of fish from de sea, an dem dere be sich bootiful riber from de
+monting, an sich nice water to drink,--and dere is plenty of wood
+to cut, and dere is salt-fish, an pork, an beef, an all so cheap
+--an here nagurs be sirvalized, an de men an wimmin were cloze
+which dey do not do in Jimmy Radder, an on Sunday dey all go
+church an hab fine tings on. I'm told dat in Jimmy Radder dey
+can't boil or roast dere plantins widout de wurrums (worms)
+crying and crawling out, an dat derefore dey mash 'em up all
+togedder in de pot an so eat dem. Brutes! Is de nagur of Jimmy
+Radder like our Nagurs? Hab dey any beerds? I heer dey hab scales
+like de fishes from lying in de mud an water, an dat dere
+shoulder bones stick out like de fins of one fish. An dis is de
+reeson our wimmin nagurs go to Jimmy Radder, _for de wimmin
+always lobe de monsters_. Don't fret you self Massa Pomp Eye
+'bout de dollars for I neber expect 'em. Me no 'tis all de same
+in de end, if you be paid one quarter dollar here for working, an
+on half dollar dere, for de tings for eat an drink are twice as
+deer dere as dey be here, widout being half so good eder. No, no
+--me be content--me no like snakes an wurrum an dose tings you
+hab in Jemmy Radder--me lobe me fader land, an no like _mud_.
+Here we all be Cristan an can reed and rite, an no be naked
+savages like aw you. Your poor yong ones send dere lobe to you--
+but dey shant want bread to eat, as long as your fren Seizer
+libes.--So good bi, an rub you body wid rum to get rid of de
+hagur, (ague.)
+
+                          "Your fren,
+
+                                                       "Seizar."
+
+So much for "Massa Seizar's" letter. I am not aware who is the
+actual writer of it; but the reasoning he puts into "Seizar's"
+mouth is sound, and by the form in which it is presented may not
+improbably produce more effect than a graver production.
+
+The soil of Antigua is composed of two distinct sorts; the one, a
+rich black mould on a substratum of clay; the other, a stiff
+reddish clay, mixed with sand, upon a substratum of marl. The
+former of these is very productive when not suffering from those
+excessive droughts to which this island is particularly subject;
+but the latter is generally overrun with that species of herbage,
+known as "Devil Grass," (_Cynodon dactylon_,) which it is almost
+impossible to exterminate. Still, Antigua is one of the most
+fertile of the West India islands, and produces, in proportion, a
+larger crop than most of her sister colonies. The land requires,
+it is true, a quantity of manure, which is one reason for estates
+keeping such large herds of cattle as they do; but with the
+assistance of that, and the blessing of the "o'ercharged clouds,"
+she seldom disappoints the hopes of her planters; while her sugar
+stands as high as any in the English markets, and her _rum_ has
+long been known for its pre-eminent qualities.
+
+The mountains contain beautiful varieties of fossils, and other
+geological curiosities. Among these may be found in the
+south-west chain, masses of trap, breccia, wacke, porphyry, &c.;
+and in the inland parallel chain, splendid specimens of coralline
+schist, agate, jasper, chalcedony, amydoloid, cornelian, and
+silicified wood are to be met with, of which I need only raise my
+eyes to those collected before me to say how beautiful they are.
+These are generally found embedded in a matrix of a deep green
+colour, which of itself is very pretty, and when well arranged in
+buildings with the native free-stone, have a very good effect.
+
+In the northern districts are found fragments of limestone,
+containing fossil shells, spars, and crystals of quartz. This
+chain, running north and south, is supposed to pass under the
+sea, forming a reef, and reappearing at Monserrat: it is said
+that the fish found upon this reef are particularly poisonous.
+
+"Church Hill," as it is termed, from the fact of the church being
+erected upon it, has been found to be composed of schist,
+enveloped in marl, and is particularly rich in its fossil shells.
+Thanks to the new flight of steps which have been lately erected,
+and the modifications made around that sacred building, (which
+has obliged the workmen to blast the rock,) I have been enabled
+to collect some fine varieties. Among these are conchs, cockles,
+&c., in which the stri� are perfect, and some of them are
+beautifully crystalized.
+
+In almost all parts of the island petrifactions are to be met
+with. Among the most beautiful of those I have seen, may be
+enumerated red cedar, with agate intermixed; roots and branches
+of cocoa-nut trees; plantain stalks, with beautiful lines of
+agate running through them; a species of palm; a root of the
+dagger, (_aloe vulgaris_;) the black mangrove, a branch of a
+tree, supposed to be the ceibar, or silk-cotton, with cornelian;
+besides many other varieties. Ochres of various colours are also
+to be dug in some districts; and in most parts of the island are
+quarries of stone; but they are not generally made an article of
+traffic.
+
+In some parts of the island are salt ponds, which might be worked
+to advantage here as well as at St. Kitts and Turk's Island; but
+the Antiguans are not of an enterprising spirit; at least, all
+their attention is bestowed upon the cultivation of the
+sugar-cane, and if that succeeds, they are perfectly satisfied.
+Were it otherwise, there are many productions which might prove
+important and beneficial articles of commerce. Tobacco grows
+spontaneously about the country; coffee has become naturalized,
+and grows wild; it is said to be inferior in quality to that
+which grows in the other islands; but would not culture do much
+for it? Cotton, ginger, palma Christi,--all are disregarded; even
+the pimento is left to decay in its loveliness, and its fragrant
+fruit serves but to feed the feathered tribe; except when, at
+Christmas, its odorous boughs are gathered to flavour the
+plum-puddings of the negroes, or decorate the churches and
+houses, as the holly does in England.
+
+Although the islands of the West Indies, being all situated
+between the Tropics, are, as regards climate, very similar, yet
+Antigua is generally reckoned more salubrious than any of the
+others. Possibly, the reason of this may be attributed to the
+dryness of the soil, for we have no rivers, and very few marshes,
+as in many of the other islands, to exhale any degree of
+humidity. The towns are now also kept very clean and wholesome,
+particularly the capital, so that island seldom suffers from any
+pestilential diseases. The "Yellow Fever," that dreaded scourge
+of the West Indies, has, however, frequently raged here to great
+extent, particularly in former years. In 1793 it was very violent
+in its effects--nearly the whole of the inhabitants of St. John's
+fell ill with it, and many deaths occurred. It broke out in the
+shipping in the harbour, and was supposed to have been brought
+ashore in a blanket, which had been wrapt round a person who had
+fallen a victim to it. In 1816 it again appeared, but not to such
+extent; but after the hurricane, in 1835, it raged with much
+virulence,--snatched many a young and beloved one from the family
+circle--separated parent and child--severed the holy bands of
+matrimony, and laid its victims in the cold and silent grave.
+
+It was supposed to be occasioned by the different effluvia which
+tainted the air after the gale; particularly that from the filth,
+which had for so many years been accumulating at the bottom of
+the harbour, and which, from the violence of the wind, had been
+completely stirred up.
+
+The warmest months of the year are June, July, and August. The
+sun, when not obscured by the density of the clouds, shines with
+a burning lustre; and did he not
+
+   "------ kind before him send
+    The genial breeze, to mitigate his fire,
+    And breathe refreshment on a fainting world,"
+
+the heat would be insupportable.
+
+The meridian height of the thermometer, during this season, is,
+in the shade, about 80�, and the other parts of the year 70�; but
+I have observed the mercury to be, from the end of June to the
+end of August, from 86� to 90�, and often even higher. The sun is
+vertical at Antigua on the 7th of May and the 5th of August; and
+consequently on those days the inhabitants are ascii at noon.
+
+September, and the two succeeding months, are generally reckoned
+the most unhealthy periods of the year. At one moment, the sun
+darts its rays with an intensity almost insupportable, while the
+sea-breeze (that friend to sufferers from "all-conquering heat")
+dies away, and a slothful calm prevails; at other times, the sun
+is hidden by black portentous clouds; the air is chilly and
+unwholesome, and rank and noxious vapours are abroad.
+
+The longest day consists of about 13 hours; the shortest about
+ten. In these latitudes, there is scarcely any aurora, or
+twilight, so that it is scarcely light until the sun is up, and
+soon after he sets, it becomes dark.
+
+Suffering as the inhabitants do, from the great heat of the days,
+the delightful evenings are particularly enjoyed. No sooner has
+the sun hidden his rays in the bosom of the ocean, than the
+land-breeze arises; this, blowing as it were from the centre of
+the island, towards the sea, appears to come from all points of
+the compass at once. Evening is the time for walking; and often
+have I seen beautiful faces, and bright eyes, gleaming in the
+moonbeams.
+
+Every author who has written about these "sunburnt isles," has, I
+think, mentioned the beauties of a West Indian night, and well
+worthy is it to be praised. The sky is of a deeper and more
+lovely blue, almost approximating to violet; and the atmosphere
+is so much clearer than in England, that many stars are visible
+to the naked eye which there require the aid of a telescope. The
+larger planets glitter with a refulgence unknown to more
+temperate latitudes--
+
+   "With purest ray,
+    Sweet Venus shines,"
+
+and appears almost like another moon. Mars rolls on in eternal
+solitude, shewing his broad red face to our wondering gaze.
+Bright-eyed Jove, with his "atmospheric belt," almost blinds us
+with his lustre; while the galaxy (or milky way) looks like--
+
+   "A circling zone, powder'd with stars;"
+
+thus they glide on in their beauty--
+
+   "Bright wanderers o'er the blue sky free;"
+
+but oh! when our own attendant planet, the "Silver Queen of
+night," rises in peerless majesty, shedding a flood of glory over
+all the surrounding landscape, the scene is inexpressibly lovely.
+How often, when enjoying her beams, and gazing on her "spotted
+disk," have I thought of those lines of Mrs. Charlotte Smith--
+
+   "And while I gaze, thy mild and placid light
+    Sheds a soft calm upon my troubled breast;
+    And oft I think, fair planet of the night,
+    That in thy orb the wretched might find rest."
+
+The stillness and calmness of an English summer's evening have
+been often and often described by our poets; here, however, no
+quietness is to be met with, but on the contrary all is bustle
+and noise. Sounds of every description fill the air, as soon as
+"evening grey" sets in. Parties of negroes, men, women, and
+children, gather together in groups, worthy the illustrative
+pencil of Cruikshank, to gabble away their _nancy stories_,
+relate their quarrels, or discuss the other business of the day.
+Bats of every size and shape fly backwards and forwards in search
+of their prey, or pay you an unceremonious visit through the open
+_jalousies_ of your houses. Crickets and frogs raise their shrill
+pipes, which grate most unmusically upon the ear; cock-roaches
+(those disgusting pests of the West Indies) crawl over the
+floors, or ceilings of the apartments, or at times take the
+liberty of brushing in your face, or nestling in your hair;
+mosquitoes hum their monotonous song, or insert their proboscis
+into every accessible part of your flesh; while the land crabs
+clatter about, just like an old woman in pattens. The houses are
+lighted up as if for an illumination, the windows are thrown open
+to admit the evening air, and the fair inhabitants amuse
+themselves by playing upon harpsichords, or similar musical
+instruments, "Blue Bells of Scotland," "Home, Sweet Home," and
+other popular melodies.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XVI.
+
+
+
+  Scenery of Antigua--Pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring"--The
+  Goddess Mnemosyne--Fig-Tree Hill--The "Bower of Bliss"--"Old
+  Road"--The Strand--The cross sexton--The parochial school--Old
+  Road Church--Tomb of Col. Williams--Moravian settlement--Salt
+  ponds--Copses--"Crab Hill"--Sandy Valley--The Valley Church--
+  The rising moon--Arrival in town--Night, and night dreams.
+
+With respect to the scenery of Antigua, it is said to be neither
+"grand nor magnificent," that "its mountains are too much like
+mole-hills,"[62] and in many other ways has it been depreciated;
+yet there are some spots of real beauty, which would strike the
+eye of even a painter or a poet. To see some of these to the
+greatest advantage, I would advise all such readers as have it in
+their power to take a drive or a ride (whichever they prefer)
+some fine morning to "Fig Tree Hill," and return by "Crab Hill."
+They will then meet with spots of such transcendent loveliness,
+as will cause the most unpoetic to exclaim, "Beautiful!
+beautiful!" But as some of my readers, perhaps, may never have
+the chance of taking such a tour, in pity to them, I will attempt
+to describe what I saw in my pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring."
+
+It was a lovely morning (as most West India mornings are) when we
+started upon our journey. The sun shone bright and clear; indeed,
+far too clear for actual comfort, had we gone as "pilgrims grey,"
+with "scalloped hat," and "sandled shoon," and resting on our
+"staves;" but we preferred the less romantic, but more pleasant
+way of taking it quietly in our carriage. Quickly we passed
+through the town of St. John's, leaving its busy inmates, its
+shops and stores, its "Scotch row" and Scotchmen, and all its
+noise and bustle, for the quietness and freshness of the country.
+Upon gaining "Otto's Hill," at the outskirts of the town, I
+looked back upon the beautiful harbour of St. John's, its blue
+waves just rippling the surface, its barques and brigs, schooners
+and sloops, bowing their heads as if in graceful homage to some
+sea-god from old King Neptune's court; and its sloping shores
+displaying a carpet of luxuriant green, for a little rain which
+had fallen not long before had clothed the fields in a garb of
+lovely verdure. While thinking upon all these beauties, and the
+images they called up, my poetic fancies were crushed by the
+horrible noise of a long string of "cattle carts" and their sable
+drivers, coming into town with a load of molasses for "Brother
+Jonathan," or some other worthy. This brought me down from the
+seventh heaven, and made me just then find out that it was very
+_hot_, and the road disagreeably dusty. However, in our
+pilgrimage through life, we meet with many crosses, and many
+_dusty spots_; and therefore, in our pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's
+Spring," we could but expect the same.
+
+The country certainly looked very pretty upon this eventful day,
+for every spot was green, and as we passed the numerous estates,
+an air of gladness seemed to be abroad. The breeze blew soft from
+off the mountains we were approaching, and greeted our olfactory
+nerves with the odour of the yellow acacia, which grew along the
+side of the road in vast profusion. In a short time, we reached
+the banks of a small rivulet, the only real stream Antigua can
+boast of, for the few others we passed owed their source more to
+the late rains than anything else. This rivulet was bordered by
+bamboos, and other species of wild cane, while larger trees, in
+many parts, shewed their gnarled roots, and bent their long
+boughs to kiss the swift gliding waters. Various aquatic plants
+grew along its margin, while in the stream itself sported my own
+country's water-lily, bright nymph�a. Near to the spot stands a
+rural little temple of worship, with its plain white walls, and a
+little cross upon its roof, and across the rivulet is thrown a
+rustic bridge. This is a favourite resort for country
+washerwomen, and as we passed, many of them were busily engaged
+in their very necessary avocations; but as none of them presented
+the appearance of a nymph or a na�ad, I will not introduce them
+to my readers.
+
+We had heard of the bad state of the roads before we left our
+home, of the hills we had to mount, and the dingles we had to go
+down; of the terrible ravines on one side, and the bare rocks on
+the other, and of places where the least swerve of the carriage
+would send us over, and then, according to our informant, "it
+would be no use to go look for you." At every turn of the road,
+then, we looked for some trial, and "screwed up our courage to
+the sticking-point," that we might be enabled to overcome them;
+but after travelling for some time, and meeting with nothing very
+terrific, we began to console ourselves, and remark, that the
+difficulties appeared to lie in the imagination. At length, we
+came to a pretty steep hill, which we surmounted in due time, and
+again sped on our way joyfully, thinking that all was very fair,
+when lo! up rose before us, if not a _mountain_, at least, a
+_giant hill_. Here would be the "tug of war," so we called a
+council. "What is to be done?" was the first query. "Why, either
+_go on_ or _go back_" was the answer. The old adage of "out of
+two evils, choose the least," came into our thoughts. There was
+the hill behind, and the hill before, so we agreed to lay the
+various "for's" and "against's" before us in a very orthodox
+manner.
+
+To commence then: if we go on, we must mount this hill, but when
+we have accomplished that, we shall have no other of great
+consequence; we were near half way, so we should have almost as
+far to go back as to go on; on the other side, if we returned, we
+should still have a hill before us, and not have the consolation
+of visiting the celebrated "fig-tree." Having come to the
+conclusion of our arguments, the word was given "forward," and
+forward we attempted to go; but there were some of our party
+whose opinions had not been asked, but who, no doubt, felt as
+great concern in the decision as any one else; I mean those very
+noble animals ycleped "horses," and for reasons my readers may
+easily conceive they appeared resolved not to proceed. After a
+few words of encouragement, however, and a few caresses, they
+agreed to lend us their aid, and once more we started.
+
+During the period that all this momentous business was going on,
+we had totally neglected the appearance of the weather, and had
+not a drop or two of rain fallen, and the sound of a distant clap
+of thunder echoed round us, I dare say we should not have thought
+upon such a subject. Here, then, was romance; a thunder-storm,
+and "Sawcolt Hill"--it only wanted an old castle and a horde of
+banditti to make it a scene worthy the pen of a "Radcliffe." The
+lambent lightning played for awhile, and the thunder bellowed
+through the boundless sky, and then passed slowly away to the
+west, very much to my satisfaction. "Sawcolt Hill" was ascended,
+and descended, and the road became more beautiful at every turn,
+until at length we stood by the side of the noted freshwater
+spring. And what then were my reflections? I thought it was
+lovely in everything but its name--"Tom Moore's Spring!" Who, in
+the name of all that's romantic, could call such a spring by such
+a name? Had it been the "fairy's spring," or the "spring of the
+mountain sylph," or something of the kind, it would have sounded
+as it ought, and some charming legend might have been attached.
+But who could ever inquire after "Tom Moore?" Why, the name of
+such a being puts all fancies to the flight!
+
+Thus far had my thoughts wandered, when suddenly, an ideal form
+passed before me; her sweet and classic countenance--her eyes
+which mocked the heavens in their dye--her long and silken lashes
+which drank the dew of her vermilion cheeks, all conspired to
+render me entranced. A blue mantle floated from her shoulders,
+and a thousand graces hovered round her steps. As she glided
+away, she placed one of her taper fingers upon her ruby lips,
+and, in a voice of liquid sweetness, uttered the word,
+"Remember!" I knew her for the goddess "Mnemosyne," and I tried
+to follow her behest. My beautiful goddess assisted me, and
+brought to my recollection that "Bulbul of a thousand songs,"
+that sweet rhymer who charms us with his "bower of roses by
+Bendameer's stream," as with his melodies of the "Emerald Isle,"
+he who bears the well-known appellation of "Tom Moore." I
+remembered all this to my shame, and determined in future never
+to utter one word against it, did all the springs in Antigua bear
+that name. After making this resolution, I turned once more to
+inspect "Tom Moore's Spring." The water is as clear as crystal,
+and of a refreshing coolness; and as it trickles from beneath the
+roots of a large bamboo growing by, each drop looks like liquid
+pearl. It has never been known to be dry, let the season be what
+it will, and consequently must be of inexpressible value to the
+adjoining estates. It was formerly built round with a stone wall,
+but that has long ago fallen to ruin, and no one has troubled
+himself to erect it again. I blame none, however, upon this
+score, for, in my opinion, it looks more romantic as it is;
+nature has done much for it, and art would only spoil her work.
+
+After leaving the spring, another height presented itself,
+clothed with luxuriant woods. This was "Fig-tree Hill," and no
+description I have ever heard of it has sufficiently set forth
+its beauty. Upon one side of the road is a deep ravine, whose
+irregular descent is hidden by trees of every description, which
+cover it to the bottom, and again ascend upon the opposite bank,
+until they reach the top of the neighbouring mountain; on the
+other side are sloping hills, carpeted with the gayest emerald.
+This beautiful hill takes its name from several large fig-trees
+which grow around; and from its highest point can be distinctly
+seen, upon a clear day, the four islands of Guadaloupe,
+Monserrat, Nevis, and St. Kitts.
+
+After remaining upon the height for some time, and enjoying the
+extensive prospect, we prepared to descend; but how to describe
+the loveliness of the path, I know not. We alighted and walked
+down, that nothing might escape our observation. Trees of all
+species abound, and--
+
+   "With confessed magnificence deride
+    Our vile attire, and impotence of pride."
+
+The lofty "red cedar," the beautiful "white-wood," the
+glossy-green "loblolly," the treacherous "manchineel," which
+invites your approach by its beautiful fruit, while it infects
+you with its poisonous odours; the enormous "ceibar," (or silk
+cotton,) the native "walnut," (which in every tree presents such
+varying shades of green,) and the splendid "tamarind," shade each
+side of the road, and cover the surrounding hills.
+
+In many places, huge masses of fantastic rocks rear their bare
+fronts to the heavens; some taking the form of old castles, with
+their frowning battlements and strong ramparts; and others
+looking as if about to fall into the valleys beneath.
+
+Just at the termination of the first descent is one of the
+sweetest spots in Antigua. It is one of tranquillity and repose.
+The fierce beams of the sun are excluded by the umbrageous
+foliage of the trees, around whose trunks various creepers
+entwine themselves, and throw their slender limbs from one to the
+other of these
+
+   "Green-robed senators of mighty woods,"
+
+forming many beauteous alcoves, carpeted with the lowlier
+flowers; whilst the "purple wreath" hangs its tasseled blossoms
+on all sides, and gives an air of lightness to the whole. A
+little silver stream (one of those the offspring of the balmy
+showers before mentioned) crossed the road in this part; and
+after leaping over roots of trees, or any other slight impediment
+which fell in its way, and thereby causing a thousand translucent
+waterfalls, at length lost itself in the impending woods. Oh! it
+was a lovely scene, and put me very much in mind of Spenser's
+"Bower of Bliss;" particularly when
+
+   "Was heard a most melodious sound
+    Of all that could delight a curious ear;
+    Such as might not upon terrestrial ground,
+    Save in this paradise, be heard elsewhere.
+    Full hard it was for him, who did it hear,
+    To guess what sort of music this might be;
+    For all that pleasing is to living ear
+    Were there soft mingled in one harmony:
+    Birds, voices, instruments, winds, waters, all agree."
+
+This was a true delineation; for although most tropical birds are
+devoid of song, the "painted warblers" might here be said to hop
+"from spray to spray." The pretty little humming-bird fluttered
+among the flowers, extracting from them, with its long and
+slender beak, the liquid honey; and the doves courted each other
+with soft, but melancholy cooing, from many a leafy brake. Upon
+my remarking I never before heard birds _sing_ in the West
+Indies, our negro-servant joined the conversation with--"Oh,
+missis! if you was to come here early in the moring, before the
+sun high, you would hear the birds singing in such a manner, that
+it would make you feel quite dismal all de day." The first time I
+ever heard of the song of a bird producing such an effect.
+
+But to return to my description of this sweetest of all sweet
+spots. Did we live in "days of yore," when fairies were wont to
+visit our world, and astonish the benighted swains with their
+glittering processions, we could fancy this one of their
+favourite retreats; but, alas! those harmless goblins have long
+disappeared, and with them all moonlight revels. The negroes,
+however, are determined it shall not be without some aerial
+visitants, so have peopled it with a tribe of _jumbies_, who,
+according to their account, are very different in behaviour and
+appearance to the pretty little elves.
+
+After carving our names upon the trunk of a noble tree, which
+appears to grow out of a rock, we proceeded on our journey
+through the same lovely scenes, which now became interspersed
+with palm-trees, until we entered upon a plain, on one side
+studded over with ruined Carib houses, and on the other, laid out
+in luxuriant cane-pieces, belonging to the Hon. Rowland E.
+Williams, the descendant of a long line of noble ancestors, and
+whose paternal domain extends throughout the lovely scenes I have
+been endeavouring to describe. A few minutes' drive brought us to
+"Old Road," so called because it was the first high-road made in
+Antigua.
+
+This town, if town it can be called, is, as regards architective
+arrangement, a perfect nondescript; for streets there are none,
+but here and there a straggling house. There is the _beach_,
+indeed, which may justly be termed "_the strand_;" but, unlike
+that far-famed street in London, boasts no splendid shops--no
+arcades or bazaars, with their "euterpeons"--no brilliant lines
+of lamps, or crowds of well-dressed and busy passengers. A
+plentiful supply of bushes and "rock-stones" (as the Creoles call
+all descriptions of stones) make up for those deficiencies; and
+the murmur of old Father Ocean is the only music heard. Of the
+houses which are to be found, a few of them are in repair; but
+the greater part are falling to ruin, and have become a
+receptacle for hordes of green lizards. One of these buildings
+struck me as rather peculiar in appearance. Nothing remained of
+it, it is true, but the walls of rough masonry, with huge
+gable-ends pointing to the skies; but still it seemed as the work
+of another race of beings. Upon making inquiries about it, an
+inhabitant informed us her grandmother (who had died several
+years before, at the advanced age of 116) remembered it in the
+same ruinous state from her earliest years; but we could learn no
+further particulars.
+
+Our principal object for visiting "Old Road," was to see a
+tombstone in the church, laid down to the memory of Col. Rowland
+Williams; and consequently, as soon as we arrived, our first
+inquiry was for the person who kept the keys of the church, and
+who acts in the capacity of sexton. While waiting for this
+official, we walked down to the beach. The harbour is a very fine
+one, and forms a complete rotund, except in the opening, where
+the sea stretches out beyond ken. A line of smooth silver sand
+borders the sea, diversified with clumps of mangrove, manchineel,
+and sea-side grapes; while here and there a cocoa-nut tree rears
+aloft its proud head, as if scorning to herd with the lowlier of
+its kind. For some time we amused ourselves with picking up
+various small shells, matted sea-weed, and corallines, which were
+scattered about the beach in profusion; but the heat,
+notwithstanding the fresh sea-breeze, was beginning to be felt
+oppressive; when turning the angle of one of the old buildings, a
+man with a bunch of keys in his hand appeared in sight.
+
+Although not always the case, still very generally, the face is
+the index to the mind; and when I first saw that man, I felt
+prejudiced against him. He came forward with a slovenly gait, and
+downcast looks, and to our inquiries for the keys of the church,
+he returned for answer, "Yes, but I can't let you in." On asking
+the reason, the rejoinder was, "Because the parson told me not to
+let any one go into the church." This was by no means cheering
+news for us; it was far from satisfactory after riding fifteen
+miles, to be turned away without seeing the very object we came
+to look at. Every kind of persuasion was used to induce him to
+comply. I joined in urging him to "ope' the door, and bid us
+enter," but alas! I found him as insensible to the voice of
+woman, as to everything else. "Can we go into the churchyard?"
+was then inquired. "Yes," was the surly answer; and following his
+steps, we soon reached that quiet spot.
+
+Even here he apparently viewed us with suspicion, thinking,
+perhaps, we not only looked capable of _sacrilege_, but of
+carrying away the church also; for although he still had the keys
+in his hand, and the rain began to fall, he not only remained
+inexorable, but looked as if he should be quite as well pleased
+if we quitted the place altogether. "The rain was falling fast,"
+and obliged us to retire to the shelter of a large white-wood
+tree, which no doubt was coeval with the first settlers, and
+beneath its spreading branches we remained for some time, until
+one of our party determined to try some other expedient, to gain
+the wished-for admittance, and for that purpose left myself and
+attendant in our shady retreat.
+
+After the lapse of about a quarter of an hour, a well-known voice
+was heard; and at an opening in the leafy covert, the person it
+proceeded from appeared, accompanied by a female. This was the
+parochial school-mistress; and a kind-hearted creature she
+appeared to be. She immediately sent in search of the cross
+sexton, and promised to take upon herself the responsibility of
+letting our party into the church; but the man was not to be
+found--he had left the town, and carried the keys with him. With
+native politeness, Miss Austin (as the worthy school-mistress was
+called) invited us to rest in her house until she could make
+further inquiries after the "keys;" and following our
+conductress, we shortly arrived at her residence, where (with a
+very warrantable kind of pride) she informed us, her mother was
+born, and married, and had reared eight children. Long before we
+gained the house, the hum of little voices was heard; and upon
+approaching the open door, about forty children, who formed the
+school, rose up, and commenced singing, "We make our obeisance to
+you, ma'am," to the tune of "L--a--w, Law;" while a parrot,
+suspended from a beam, if she did not _sing_, at least
+_screeched_ in chorus. After looking at these little negroes for
+some time, and inspecting the simple decorations of their
+school-room, we were ushered up stairs, and introduced to Miss
+Austin's two sisters.
+
+I cannot help speaking more fully of the polite behaviour of this
+trio. I came among them a perfect stranger, my name even being
+unknown, and in all probability never again to meet in this
+world; but every little attention possible was lavished upon me,
+the choicest produce of their garden tendered, and without the
+least parade. I have mixed with society in a far higher grade,
+where courtly manners prevail, and every art is tried to invest
+each action with a polished grace; but often, very often, has
+less native good-breeding, fewer sterling qualities of the mind
+been displayed than I found in the sisters of "Old Road." They
+are not like the generality of persons in their line of life;
+hospitality indeed is, I believe, a virtue which most of them
+possess; but there was no aping of their betters, as is too
+frequently the case with this class of people; no flying away,
+when we came so suddenly upon them, to put on a brass chain, or a
+string of glass beads; or to take off an untidy wrapper, to
+enrobe themselves in a smart gown; their neat dresses and
+snow-white collars, like beauty, needed not "the foreign aid of
+ornament."
+
+Many a beautiful tree grew around their humble dwelling, and many
+a sweet-scented flower almost entered the open windows. When we
+had rested for a short time, we proceeded to the garden, to see a
+lime-tree. Knowing as I did the blighted state of these trees in
+Antigua, I expected to see a diminutive shrub; what, then, was my
+surprise, upon entering the little paddock, (for it had more the
+appearance of that than a garden,) to see a noble tree, covering
+the space of about fifty square feet, loaded with its fragrant
+fruit to the very ground. Well worthy was it to be looked at!
+well worthy to be praised by an abler pen than mine!--no
+indefinite article could be used to this shrub; it must be called
+_the_ lime tree, and nothing else. While looking, again and
+again, at this beautiful tree--pressing its odorous leaves, and
+inhaling the scent of its golden fruit, the youngest sister
+remarked, "The archdeacon was here the other day, to catechise
+the children, and upon seeing this tree, said it looked as if the
+blessing of God was upon it." And in truth it does appear so, for
+it flourishes on in its beauty in the midst of a burning sand,
+whilst most of its species are blighted and seared.
+
+After leaving the lime-tree, we returned to the house and heard
+the children read a chapter in the Bible, and repeat the gospel,
+which they did very correctly, although some of them had not
+numbered their fifth year, thus proving the pains their tutoress
+takes with them; and then, putting up with our disappointment,
+left for home. As we were passing the church, Mr. Sexton appeared
+to have altered his mind in some degree, for (but with a very
+indifferent grace, it must be owned) he condescended to open the
+church door, and allow us entrance. The church, which is composed
+of hewn stone, is built in the form of a cross, and is noted for
+being the first place of public worship erected in Antigua. There
+is nothing very remarkable in the interior; the walls are plain
+white, and the floor paved with brick; but it is a quiet little
+church, where the good people of that neighbourhood may worship
+their God in peace. Over the altar is an old painting of Moses
+and Aaron in their robes; and under the communion table reposes
+the ashes of him who may be called the founder of the church; for
+he gave the land, and liberally contributed towards its erection.
+This was Col. Rowland Williams, who, as before-mentioned, was
+celebrated for his various good qualities, as well as humanity,
+in a period when the West Indies were generally enveloped in
+moral darkness. The epitaph upon his tomb-stone is inscribed in
+Latin; but as many of my readers no doubt prefer the English
+translation, I will insert it, which I am enabled to do through
+the kindness of the Rev. H. G. Hall.
+
+                Here safely lie in Mother Earth
+            The mortal remains of Rowland Williams.
+                   We are but dust and ashes!
+      He was the first male infant of European extraction
+                 Lawfully born in this island.
+       When he attained to manhood, he conducted himself
+                           As a man,
+     Being equally in military, as in civil life, an honour
+           As well to himself, as to his connexions.
+             In the field, he was a bold commander;
+            In the senate, he was a wise councillor:
+              What avails strength without wisdom?
+       He was a loyal subject of his king, a protector of
+                          His country,
+    A true father to his children, hospitable to his guests,
+              A friend to his friends. In a word,
+                 He was all things to all men.
+            Throughout his whole life he displayed,
+            With health of body, soundness of mind.
+       Possessing the strictest honesty and much wealth.
+                He fell a tardy victim to death,
+              Having survived about eighty years.
+        He was buried the twentieth day of ------ 1713.
+             Since it is certain that we must die,
+        We should without delay take warning against it.
+
+Near the altar is an elegant and chastely ornamented white marble
+tablet, erected to the memory of Mrs. Williams, daughter of Sir
+Patrick Ross, K. C. B., and wife of the Hon. Rowland E. Williams,
+the great-great-grandson of the above Col. Williams. This
+exemplary lady died at the early age of 32; respected by all
+classes, and deeply regretted by those who were honoured with her
+friendship. The following lines are engraved on the tablet:--
+
+   "Death, ere thou canst claim another,
+    Fair, and good, and wise as she,
+    Time shall hurl his dart at _thee_."[63]
+
+After copying these inscriptions, and casting one more glance
+round this rustic church, we returned to our carriage, and
+proceeded on our journey to "Crab Hill." Before relating the rest
+of our adventures, I must remark, that the line of conduct
+pursued by the sexton of "Old Road" is not common in Antigua,
+such officials being generally very obliging.
+
+Near to "Old Road" is a pond, which is formed by the hand of
+nature into a complete bason. It is surrounded with some fine and
+noble trees, which form a screen, and is embellished with a
+variety of odoriferous flowers, which bloom and die unknown and
+uncared for, illustrating those beautiful lines of Gray's--
+
+   "Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
+    And waste its sweetness on the desert air."
+
+Near to this spot is a natural excavation, called the "Devil's
+Punch Bowl," which, although I had often heard it spoken of as
+something very grand, did not cause me much pleasure or
+astonishment, being, in fact, nothing more than a deep hole, with
+a little turbid water at the bottom.
+
+About a stone's throw from "Old Road," on the top of the hill,
+stands a Moravian settlement, with its neat white house and
+chapel; there is always an air of comfort around these
+settlements, which speaks to an English heart; and the Moravians
+themselves are a quiet, well-meaning people, diligent in the
+discharge of their ministerial duties, and earnestly desiring
+their people's welfare. May they meet their reward!
+
+After passing the fort of "Old Road," the next place which
+attracted our notice was the salt ponds, with their fringe of
+mangrove trees and little islands. Innumerable soldier crabs were
+hurrying to and fro,--some looking out for a new coat of mail, in
+the form of a new shell, and others hunting for their prey, which
+is very frequently the weak and small of their own class. The sea
+now burst upon our sight, and added to the beauty of the scene;
+its surface was as smooth and clear as a mirror, except where the
+breakers played over a long reef, which runs far out from shore,
+and threw up their lovely but dangerous spray in measured
+showers,--no wonder the ancients fabled their goddess of beauty
+to have sprung from this sparkling object.
+
+After passing the rectory of St. Mary's, our road lay through
+copses, whose overhanging boughs formed a beautiful and verdant
+arch. The sunbeams, penetrating through them, danced in sportive
+glee upon the chequered ground, while between the boles we caught
+picturesque glimpses of the ocean. I could not help noticing one
+peculiarity in passing through these woods, that almost every
+tree is decorated with that species of parasite called wild
+pines;[64] the great varieties of cactus was also remarkable.
+
+After journeying along the road for about a mile, we came in view
+of "Crab Hill," noted for the dangers it presents to travellers,
+should their horses prove restive, or night overtake them. Here
+again we alighted, determined that nothing should escape our
+gaze. The road rises about 180 feet from the sea, in an abrupt
+precipice clothed with the dwarf acacia and "milk-bush"--those
+ever-to-be-found productions of Antigua. A low wall of stones,
+loosely piled, borders the edge of the road, which would prove
+but a sorry guard against any accident. In the steepest part of
+the hill, we looked over, and watched in silence the beautiful
+but treacherous waves, as they laved the rocky base of the
+precipice. Here and there a blasted parasite clung to it, and
+feebly strove to hide its ugliness; and one or two sea-birds sat
+watching for their prey, and pluming their rumpled feathers. At
+the sound of our voices they started, and after turning upon us
+their bright quick eyes for a moment, as if to ask why we
+obtruded upon their solitude, flapped their wings and soared
+screaming away through the vaulted ether.
+
+We enjoyed the scene for some time longer, and then remembering
+we were still many miles from the capital, and the sun had almost
+completed his daily journey, we resumed our seats and set our
+faces towards home. A ride of a few more minutes brought us to a
+place called "Sandy Valley," which proved not to be, like some
+places, a _misnomer_, for there is sand enough for any one's
+taste, and fine glittering sand it is too. The sea bounds one
+side of the valley, and a stagnant marsh the other.
+
+Leaving this, we passed by the valley church and school,
+cultivated cane-pieces and neat-looking "great houses," negro
+huts and provision grounds, and an open country, for we were
+rapidly leaving the mountains behind us. On our right, we passed
+a methodist settlement, and another belonging to the Moravians,
+and hard by a fresh-water spring; but I began to feel very tired,
+and consequently did not find out beauties which otherwise might
+have attracted my attention. A pretty sloping hill lay before us,
+and as we passed, the "full-orb'd moon" rose above it, and
+
+   "O'er the night her silver mantle threw."
+
+A sudden turn in the road placed her lovely face behind us, and
+languidly reclining in a snug corner, I mused in silence upon the
+beautiful scenes I had passed through in our pilgrimage, until
+roused by a bustle in the road, just at the entrance of the
+capital, where men and boys, long poles and ropes, and that very
+respectable quadruped, dignified by Antiguans with cognomination
+of "a cattle," formed the _figurantes_. The poor creature had
+been landed from an American vessel that morning, at a
+neighbouring bay, and exhausted, I suppose, with the discomfits
+of its voyage, had fallen down on its way to the butcher's. I
+don't think its sufferings were of long continuance, for the next
+morning I heard the black bellman announcing to the public, that
+"A fine fat 'merican ox was slaughtered at the shambles of
+'Seizar' James."[65]
+
+But to conclude our adventures; we rapidly passed through the
+grass-market and the town, heard the jingle of many a piano and
+the squeak of many a flute, (I mean no disparagement to the
+performers,) almost ran over a pig or two, who, spite of a late
+prohibition, were walking out to enjoy the cool of the evening;
+and at length safely alighted at our residence in "Spring
+Gardens."
+
+In the course of an hour or two, I willingly resigned myself to
+the dominion of sleep, and dreamt of mountains and
+thunder-storms, springs and fairies, precipices and lime-trees.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[62] "The highest mountains are not more than 1500 feet above the
+level of the sea."
+
+[63] The above lines are taken from an epitaph written upon the
+Dowager Countess of Pembroke, sister to the celebrated Sir Philip
+Sidney one of the favourite courtiers of Queen Elizabeth, and
+author of a romance entitled "Arcadia," which he dedicated to his
+sister the Countess. On this account it is frequently called "the
+Countess of Pembroke's Arcadia." This lady was noted for her
+great learning, in an age when classical knowledge was the common
+accomplishments of the court ladies. Her principal work was a
+translation of "Antonius," a French tragedy.
+
+   "Underneath this marble hearse,
+    Lies the subject of all verse.
+    Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother.
+    Death, ere thou hast kill'd another,
+    Fair, and learn'd, and good as she,
+    Time shall throw a dart at thee."
+
+[64] There is one great peculiarity in this plant which deserves
+notice. The leaves are cellular, and so formed as to make sure
+reservoirs for the drops of rain, which fall into them from the
+top, through small openings. The seeds are furnished with a downy
+substance, by which means they float through the air, and take
+root upon any part of a tree or shrub upon which they chance to
+fall. The leaves always grow erect, by which means they safely
+hold the rain water. Dampier mentions piercing these plants with
+his knife, and catching the water in his hat when suffering from
+thirst.
+
+[65] It may be proper to note, that such events are not of
+everyday occurrence in Antigua. Not more than two "cattle" are
+slaughtered in the capital in a week, and when such deed is
+committed the bellman announces it to the public.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XVII.
+
+
+
+  The seasons at Antigua--Heavy rains--Long droughts--The
+  water-merchant--A fortunate shower--Drought in 1837--Desolate
+  appearance of the country--Famishing cattle--Definition of
+  "_fine rains_"--Anecdote--Heavy shower--Joy--Earthquakes--1835
+  --Meteors--Dressing for the ball--The alarm--The ball-room--
+  Hurricanes--Devastations.
+
+The seasons at Antigua may be divided into the _wet_ and _dry_.
+The wet season generally commences in July, and continues, with
+intermissions, until October; and in February we look for it
+again. The rains in England are but summer dews, comparatively
+speaking, to the torrents which the overcharged clouds pour down
+upon these "Isles of the West." No one but an actual observer can
+form any idea of the violence of these storms. In a moment the
+streets are inundated, and the falling of the large drops upon
+the shingled roofs of the houses is quite deafening.
+
+But at the same time these rains constitute the Antiguan's
+greatest blessing, for not only do they revive the parched and
+thirsty earth, cool the atmosphere, promote the growth of the
+sugar cane, and dress nature in her loveliest garb; but from
+having (as before mentioned) only two or three fresh-water
+springs in the island, and those far inland, their chief supplies
+of that necessary fluid are derived from these showers. Large
+cisterns are dug and carefully lined with some kind of plaster,
+either terrace, brought from Monserrat or St. Christopher's, or
+Roman cement, to contain it; and as rain water has the property
+of purifying itself, it is generally translucent and wholesome.
+
+Antigua has, however, at various times, suffered long and
+dreadfully from drought. In 1779, the long want of rain was
+painfully felt; and in 1789 it occurred again, but with redoubled
+severity. Famine, it was supposed, would be the result. As many
+as five thousand head of horned cattle are said to have died; and
+men and women fell down in the streets from exhaustion. I have
+felt what it is to suffer from this cause in a small degree; the
+water we have been obliged to drink when the cisterns were dried
+up was nauseous in the extreme--only stern necessity would have
+induced persons to partake of it.
+
+Sometimes, when nearly all the ponds in the island are dry, (as
+was the case in 1833,) it becomes necessary to despatch vessels
+to the nearest islands for a supply of water. This season of
+general distress proves, at times, a rich harvest to those
+adventurers who possess, or can hire, a small vessel, and load it
+with water, for which they charge very high.
+
+A circumstance occurred in the above-mentioned year, in relation
+to this practice, which it may be worth while to relate. During a
+long succession of dry weather, and when there was but very
+little water to be found in Antigua, one of these
+_water-merchants_, if I may be allowed to use that expression,
+went to Monserrat (a small island a few hours' sail from Antigua)
+for a cargo of this useful beverage. Upon his return he asked an
+extravagant price for it; the poor people murmured; but what was
+to be done? Water must be had; and in the end the hard-earned
+wages of many a one found their way into the pockets of this
+"Aquarius."
+
+Finding his profits so great this time, and the dry weather
+continuing, he determined to make another trip, and if possible,
+add a little more of the "Honey of Hybla" to his stock. He
+arrived at Antigua with his elementary cargo in the evening, and
+immediately commenced his traffic. But in this instance he
+outwitted himself; for raising his demands as the necessity of
+water appeared the greater, the people were unable to comply, and
+determined to wait until morning, in hopes of procuring some at a
+cheaper rate.
+
+In the meantime the clouds began to darken, and appeared to rest
+upon the top of the mountains. The wind whistled mournfully among
+the trees--the air became chill--the mercury fell, and in a few
+moments the windows of heaven were opened, and the long-looked
+and wished-for rain descended, not in measured drops, "soft and
+slow," but in torrents. Now was the season of exultation; every
+vessel capable of containing fluids was put in requisition, and
+the mortified _water-merchant_ was obliged to get rid of his
+cargo the best way he could. Near to our residence is a kennel,
+which in dry weather is totally devoid of moisture, but during
+these heavy rains it becomes a small rivulet. To this stream then
+rushed a motley group; men, women, and children, dogs and poultry
+--all participating in the general joy; even the swinish
+multitude grunted forth their approbation, and ran to lave their
+snouts in its cool waters.
+
+It was laughable to see the little black children as they
+scampered about, shaking their hands, and screaming with delight
+as they enjoyed their natural "shower bath," which proved a more
+effective one than even Mrs. O'Flinn's. Talking of "shower baths"
+brings to my recollection an anecdote related of a late merchant
+of St. John's.
+
+Mr. B------, the merchant in question, had been for some time
+suffering from indisposition, and his medical attendant advised
+him to try the renovating influence of a shower-bath.
+Accordingly, such a machine was duly procured, and the next
+morning put into requisition. In the course of the day the
+physician called to ascertain the state of his patient after his
+ablution, and with winning voice, inquired how he liked his
+"shower-bath." "Oh, doctor!" replied the sick man, with rueful
+look and lengthened visage, "I verily thought I should have
+fainted, the shock was so great." "Indeed," said Dr. M------, in
+his usual bland manner, "I am sorry it had such an effect; why
+did you not follow the Irishman's plan, and take your umbrella?"
+The next forenoon brought with it the customary medical visitor,
+who again inquired into the merits of the bath. "Why," quoth the
+invalid, "I cannot say the shock was so great, but I do not think
+I shall derive any benefit from it; in fact, only my feet
+received a wetting this time, for I followed your advice _and
+carried my umbrella!_"
+
+But to return to the subject of droughts. Severe as the drought
+was in 1833, it was nothing compared to what we suffered in 1837,
+from the same cause; and, indeed, for the greater part of the
+preceding year. The old people remarked that they never
+remembered its being so dry since 1789, (which was particularly
+distinguished as "the year of the drought.") What miseries the
+Antiguans then suffered, I am of course from experience unable to
+say; but if they exceeded those endured in that eventful year,
+1837, they must have been terrible indeed.
+
+Almost every pond and cistern in the island was dried up,
+scarcely a blade of grass was to be seen; and when walking over
+pasture land, it crackled beneath the feet as if it had been
+baked. The poor cattle presented a most deplorable appearance,
+wandering about as they did in search of food and water, and
+expressing their urgent wants, by faint, melancholy lowings.
+
+The poorer class of inhabitants, also, felt it very much, obliged
+as they were to drink the spring water, which is but very little
+better than salt. The little fresh water they were able to
+procure occasioned them great labour, for after toiling hard all
+the day, they were obliged to devote the greater part of the
+night to fetching it from distant parts of the islands, carrying
+it in tubs upon their heads.
+
+It was a pitiful sight to see the country, it presented such a
+scene of barrenness. The cane-pieces looked burnt up; nothing was
+to be seen but dry and withered leaves, in place of their
+accustomed rich green; the provision grounds became mere wastes,
+and all agricultural employments were at a stand.
+
+Days and weeks thus rolled on, and still the same blue cloudless
+sky--the same burning sun. Or if a cloud did arise, and skim the
+vast concave, and the hopes of men grew strong, it passed away
+without giving the long-looked-for blessing. Again, and the scene
+changed. Huge dense clouds might be seen, piled one upon another,
+and slowly extending themselves over the sky until they reached
+the zenith; the upper ones looking as if crowned with snowflakes,
+while those nearer the earth were black and heavy like a
+"funereal pall," and appeared as if about to discharge their
+burdens. "Now we shall have it!" was the cry; "at last, we shall
+have rain!" Delusive hopes! doomed to be overthrown; these again
+passed away, and left no boon.
+
+Every day presented appearances more and more alarming, the
+little supply of water was rapidly diminishing, and men and
+brutes were becoming exhausted by thirst. Days were set apart by
+the legislature for public prayers and fasts, and a sum of money
+granted for the purpose of hiring vessels to go to Monserrat for
+water. This water was sold by the pail, but from being brought
+over in molasses' casks, it tasted extremely disagreeable.
+
+The late Sir Evan Murray McGregor, then governor of Barbados,
+hearing of the necessities of the Antiguans, (over whom he had
+formerly held sway in the character of commander-in-chief of the
+Leeward Islands,) sent a man-of-war with a cargo of this precious
+element from that island; but under some pretence or the other,
+it was refused by the legislature. The cause of this
+extraordinary line of conduct was said to be this. Sir Evan was
+not generally a favourite governor with the aristocratic party:
+he was a man of strict principles, and one who poised the scales
+of justice with an impartial hand between rich and poor, white
+and coloured. He would not herd with the _great people_--go to
+their houses, eat their corn-fed mutton and turtle, drink their
+_Ch�teau Margeau_ and Champagne, and then wink at their
+proceedings, and gloss over their errors, like some of his
+predecessors. Upon this account he was not liked, and when in the
+kindness of his heart he sent the present of water, it was
+refused in a very cold manner. Some of the members of the
+assembly were against this arrangement, and said, for the honour
+of Antigua, that they would rather have lost double the amount
+than it should have been returned.
+
+But to return more particularly to the drought. Not only did the
+inhabitants suffer from want of water to drink, and for general
+use, but the country provisions, such as yams, potatoes, &c.,
+upon which the negroes principally depend, unavoidably failed;
+and as all importations were raised so much in price, the lower
+classes were almost starved.
+
+The planters endured great inconvenience, not only from the
+dryness of the soil, which ruined the sugar-canes, but also from
+having to pay the same number of labourers their regular wages,
+without having anything for them to do, yet at the same time
+being obliged to retain them, lest when the wet season did come,
+and their assistance was really required, they might not be
+procurable.
+
+I heard a circumstance related which occasioned a smile, even in
+this time of distress. A certain good lady of St. John's sent one
+of her domestics to the sea side for a pail of salt water. It
+happened to be ebb-tide,[66] and upon the servant returning, she
+exclaimed to her mistress, the greatest astonishment being
+depicted upon her countenance, "Why missis, war you tink? It dry
+so till sea himself dry now. War eber we go do, me no no."
+
+Oh! how anxiously did we watch the barometer day after day, in
+hopes of its indicating rain. The inhabitants of the different
+parts of the island meeting one another, the first question asked
+was, "What weather have you had? do you think we are likely to
+get any rain?"
+
+A proprietor of a large estate in a distant part of the island,
+but who resided in the capital, met one morning a labourer of his
+coming from the country, and of course asked what news there was,
+and how they were coming on. "So, so, massa," returned the negro
+--"we hab fine rain last night." "Say you so, my fine fellow?"
+quoth his master, his heart enlarged at the prospect of his canes
+flourishing, "well, here's a quarter-dollar for you, as a reward
+for your good news."
+
+In the course of the same day, the manager of the estate arrived
+in town, and upon seeing the proprietor, was congratulated by him
+upon the "fine rains" he had so fortunately experienced in the
+country. "_Fine rains!_" said the manager, in surprise, "do I
+hear you aright, or are you joking? (although I think you'll find
+it no joke in the end;) we have had no rain at all, and I came
+into town this morning to consult with you upon the subject; for
+from the excessive drought, the canes are all burnt up, the
+cattle dying in all directions, and the labourers themselves are
+dropping down exhausted from want of water."
+
+The proprietor stormed and raved--that fellow Cato told me you
+had had fine rains last night; and I was so pleased to hear it,
+that--that--I actually gave the black rascal a quarter-dollar for
+his information. "Here, John! go and call that fellow back,"
+turning to a domestic, "and tell him to make haste--do you hear?"
+In the course of a short time Cato returned, rolling up his eyes
+until only the whites (or rather yellows) were visible, holding
+his little flannel cap in one hand, and in the other, what was
+once designated as a _pipe_, and uttering a mysterious noise,
+which was intended as half interrogative, half conciliatory,
+waited until his master, who was puffing and blowing, and looking
+"unutterable things," should speak.
+
+At length the storm burst--the torrent descended. "How dare you
+tell me such a story this morning, sirrah? How dare you, sir?
+answer me!" "War 'tory, massa," inquired the self-convicted, but
+waggish negro, the left foot at the same time performing
+countless evolutions, and the flannel cap twirled round the thumb
+with increased velocity. "What story? you arrant rogue! why, the
+story you told me this morning about having fine rains in the
+country." "Me no tell no 'tory, massa," retorted the negro,
+determined to stand his master's ire undaunted, and, like many
+other guilty ones, striving to have the last word. "Me no tell no
+'tory; war for me go tell 'tory? me no 'peak de trute." "You
+speak the truth, indeed! Here's the manager, who tells me there
+has been no rain at all, but, on the contrary, that my stock are
+all dying from want of water; and yet you dared to tell me you
+had fine rains last night." "Yes, massa, and so we _hab fine
+rain_; me tell de trute. An more den dat, de rain _fine so_ till
+--t-i-ll (prolonging the word) me hardly able to see him, he so
+fine!" Both owner and manager found it difficult to maintain
+their gravity at this definition of _fine rains_; while Cato,
+with a grin of self-congratulation at having so adroitly got
+himself out of a bad scrape; and grasping more firmly his
+quarter-dollar, which he imagined to be in some danger, set off
+for his own residence.
+
+"Hope deferred, maketh the heart sick;" and so indeed it was with
+us, when day after day passed, and still no appearance of rain.
+But One, who does not "willingly grieve the children of men,"
+remembered us in our great affliction, and when we least thought
+of it, sent us the needful blessing. I never saw such a fall of
+rain before; and many of the oldest inhabitants said the same
+thing. In about an hour from the time it first commenced, the
+streets were streaming with water; indeed, the one in which we
+reside looked more like a small river than anything else, for not
+a vestige of dry ground appeared.
+
+Report said two or three children were carried into the sea by
+the violence of the stream which rushed through the streets; but
+upon further inquiry, I found, as is generally the case, report
+did not speak truth. It originated from an old woman, seeing some
+chickens (which had been brought to market for sail, with their
+legs tied together) floating down the stream, when she exclaimed,
+"Eh! eh! look de fowl pic'nee;[67] he sure he go get drowned!"
+This travelled, and lost nothing by its peregrinations, until at
+length it became magnified into the loss of several children.
+
+In a very short time, all the ponds and cisterns in the island,
+which for so long a time had been perfectly dry, were filled to
+overflowing, and care and distress gave way to joy and
+thankfulness.
+
+About June, July, and August, Antigua is liable to be visited by
+storms of thunder, and lightning, and earthquakes. The lightning
+in this part of the globe is very vivid; and the thunder bellows
+through the air in terrific peals, every hill and mountain
+reverberating the sound. Often have I seen the lightning playing
+down the spiral branches of the cocoa-nut trees, presenting a
+sublime but awful appearance.
+
+But although these storms are so violent, and consequently so
+harrowing to the feelings, they are nothing in comparison to the
+earthquakes with which we are sometimes visited. Every nerve is
+shaken by these terrible convulsions of nature; the very brute
+creation seem to feel their influence.
+
+In April, 1690, Antigua suffered very severely from this cause.
+Nearly the whole town of St. John's was destroyed; and the
+sugar-works upon the various plantations in the country almost
+all overthrown. In many parts of the island, the solid earth was
+rent open; rocks were hurled from their places, and the very
+mountains defaced. The line of hills which skirts the harbour
+suffered from the concussion in a remarkable manner: one of them
+was rent completely in twain; and now, after the lapse of so many
+years, presents the appearance of two heights, with a deep dingle
+running between them. Soon after this awful occurrence, two
+comets made their appearance.
+
+The first time I felt an earthquake, I took it to be the approach
+of a heavy carriage; but by the increased, rumbling and tremour
+of the earth, was quickly undeceived. It was but a slight shock,
+however, and I began to think an earthquake was not so dreadful
+as my fancy had depicted it to be.
+
+It was reserved for the year 1833 to prove to me what an
+earthquake really was, and make me fully aware of its terrifying
+powers; and although nearly nine years have rolled by since that
+period, and consequently the remembrance of it has lost some part
+of its vividness, yet the occurrences of that night has left so
+deep an impression upon my mind, that it will never be wholly
+obliterated.
+
+Between eight and nine in the evening, a shock of an earthquake
+was felt; but as it did not continue long, no particular
+attention was paid to it. We had retired to-bed, and were in our
+first sleep, when we were suddenly awakened by that peculiar
+hollow noise which is always the forerunner of one of these
+convulsions. The noise became louder and louder; the earth heaved
+to and fro; the house shook from its very foundation; and books,
+glasses, and other light articles fell from their resting-places.
+This lasted with undiminished force: but a few minutes elapsed
+before another violent shock was felt. In the midst of this, the
+church-bell commenced ringing, and drums beating an alarm, while
+the whole face of the heavens, glowing with a fiery red, soon
+informed us that a conflagration augmented the horrors of the
+night.
+
+There were twenty-one distinct shocks felt between twelve at
+night and five in the morning, but the earth continued in a
+tremour for twenty-four hours afterwards. Thus it was we passed
+through that wearisome night; but when morning broke in the east,
+and the bright sun arose, and chased away the clouds of darkness,
+how many hearts swelled with gratitude towards Him who had so
+mercifully protected us through its dangers.
+
+The fire broke out at an estate called Otto's, situated in the
+suburbs of St. John's. It was supposed by many to have been
+occasioned by a meteor striking a wooden building, which
+supposition acquires more credence from the following fact. An
+elderly female, of the name of Moore, who had acquired some
+notoriety from her preaching, both in England (particularly in
+Cateaton street, London) and the West Indies, was sitting up
+late, on the night in question, employed in writing her
+"Memoirs." She mentions having seen a particular appearance in
+the heavens, which she described as looking like a bright scarf
+of fire gradually gliding down the sky in the direction of the
+estate, until, upon apparently gaining the earth, it vanished.
+
+The attorney of the above-mentioned estate also witnessed a
+similar phenomenon a few weeks afterwards. In this instance, the
+meteor descended upon the branch of a cocoa-nut tree, which grew
+near his house, and set it on fire; and had it not been for the
+courage and activity of a negro who was present, and who
+succeeded in felling the tree, great danger might have resulted
+from it.
+
+Most of the Leeward Islands suffered from earthquakes the same
+night; but at St. Kitts, (about sixty miles to the west of
+Antigua,) they appear to have felt them more severely than in the
+other islands. A ball was held that evening at the Court House,
+and the company were dressing for the occasion when the first
+shock was felt.
+
+Two young ladies, the daughters of a respectable merchant of
+Bassterre, (the capital of St. Kitts,) met with so great a
+fright, that they were obliged to forego paying their court to
+the "dancing muse." The duties of the toilet were scarcely
+finished, when, as before observed, the earthquake commenced. In
+a moment the ceiling of the apartment was rent, and, as they
+supposed, a heavy fall of rain penetrated through the aperture,
+and extinguished the lights.
+
+The youngest of the ladies, terrified at the concussion, and not
+knowing the extent of their danger, threw herself upon the
+ground, calling loudly for help. The trembling domestics quickly
+came with a lamp, when, horror of horrors! they found the
+delicate white satin in which their young mistress was enrobed,
+completely saturated with _blood_! The other members of the
+family, alarmed by the screams of the servants, assembled in the
+room, and with eagerness inquired where the wound was. This was
+not to be discovered; and, accordingly, another elucidation of
+the mystery was sought for, and no long period elapsed before it
+was found. Their father, as before observed, was a merchant, and
+the attic over the room the young ladies occupied had been
+converted into a temporary wine-store. From the severe shock of
+the earthquake, a cask of port wine got staved; and what had the
+appearance of _blood_, was nothing less than its contents which
+so liberally bedewed the ball-dress of the fair sufferer.
+
+But the first shock did not intimidate many, however, and
+consequently the ball-room was crowded with visitants. "Nods and
+becks, and wreathed smiles," flew around; innumerable lamps
+illumined the room, but their blaze was eclipsed by the radiance
+emitted from the dark brilliant eyes of the Houris, who, on the
+"light fantastic toe," glided through the mazes of a quadrille.
+All was joy fulness, and every heart responded to the genial
+influence of the scene, when another shock more violent, and of
+longer continuance, converted this feeling of pleasure into the
+opposite one of woe. Instead of the lively scene described, all
+was now tumult and distress. Some of the ladies fainted, others
+threw themselves upon their knees, while the greater number
+rushed out of the apartment, which now looked hateful to them,
+and hastened to the beach.
+
+Shock followed shock in rapid succession, and the poor
+"Kittefonians" thought their little island was doomed to
+destruction. Nor was it from the quaking of the earth that all
+their terror proceeded; the sea rose so high, and the waves
+rolled in such a tumultuous manner, that an inundation was
+feared. In such a situation the inhabitants were almost paralyzed
+with fear; some went on board the different ships in the harbour,
+while others remained all night upon the beach, exposed to the
+"pitiless pelting" of the storm.
+
+I chanced to visit St. Kitts a short time after this awful
+occurrence. The inhabitants were still trembling from
+apprehension; and upon the slightest motion of the floor, the
+colour fled from the lips of many of the fair sex, and left them
+of a pallid white. I was present, upon one occasion, when a
+gentleman requested a young lady to favour him with a song. "Oh,
+no, sir! you must excuse me," said she, lengthening her very
+pretty face, and throwing an air of gravity into her countenance;
+"we never sing since the earthquake." If no other good was
+effected, it had the power of alienating her mind (for a season
+at least) from some of the vanities of the world, if a simple
+song can be called one.
+
+Another dreadful visitation of elementary strife, to which
+Antigua, as well as the other West Indian islands, is liable in
+the months of August, September, and October, are the hurricanes,
+or _tornadoes_. When they come, they are armed with every terror
+--rain, thunder, lightning, and sometimes earthquakes, attend
+their progress. The sea feels their influence, and, by its
+swelling and roaring, expresses it--
+
+   "The waves behind impel the waves before,
+    Wide-rolling, foaming high, they tumble to the shore."
+
+The years 1670, 1681, 1707, 1740, 1772, 1780, and 1792, are those
+in which the severest hurricanes have occurred at Antigua. The
+hurricane of 1670 was most memorable. It raged with intense
+severity for four hours, and in that short space of time
+destroyed the new town of St. John's, which had been rebuilt
+since the French invasion, and levelled almost every house with
+the ground. The ships lost in the harbour were the "Robert," of
+Ireland, William Cocks, master; the "Merchants' Adventure," of
+the same place; the "Margaret Pink," from Tangiers, and another
+large ship called the "Five Islands," besides several smaller
+vessels which had come there for shelter. A wreck was also driven
+ashore, in which was found the corpse of a boy, some palm oil,
+and elephants' teeth, supposed to be from Guinea. That of 1707
+was also very severe, being considered one of the most violent
+ever experienced in the Leeward West India Islands, although
+Antigua suffered more than any of the neighbouring colonies. It
+blew down houses and entire sugar-works, tore up the largest
+trees by the roots, and devastated whole fields of sugar-canes;
+indeed, so tremendous was the hurricane, that it caused an almost
+general destruction. The oldest inhabitants of the present day
+unite, however, in saying that they never experienced one so
+awful as that of 1835.
+
+About four in the afternoon it commenced to look very wild,
+although the wind was moderate; the sky was of a deep saffron
+colour, and the sun shone with a fiery red. Between five and six
+in the evening the wind rose, and continued increasing until
+about seven, when the havoc began.
+
+Houses were levelled in an instant with the ground; many of the
+small dwellings were completely lifted from off their slight
+foundations, and carried by the wind to some distance. One old
+woman in particular had a narrow escape of her life. The house in
+which she resided was raised about five feet from the ground by
+the violence of the wind, hurried along with the greatest
+velocity for about the space of twenty feet across the road, and
+then placed in what was once a pond. Luckily, however, for the
+good old dame, the pond had been filled up, or, in all
+probability, her aerial flight would have finished her course of
+existence in this transitory sphere.
+
+The hurricane raged with unabated force until a little before
+nine, tearing up large trees by the roots, and snapping asunder
+others as if they had been twigs; when, suddenly, in a moment,
+the wind dropped. Not a sound was to be heard--not a single
+breeze was abroad: A deep, solemn silence reigned around--a
+silence which harrowed up every feeling of the soul, for it spoke
+of dire mishaps.
+
+This continued for some time, when again the wind returned with
+redoubled fury, as if its strength was recruited by the short
+respite it had gained, and shook the very earth. The hurricane
+raged until the sun got up, and then slowly and sullenly it sank
+to rest; until towards evening, nothing was to be heard but its
+sobs and sighs.
+
+A great many small vessels belonging to Antigua were sunk during
+the gale, and many poor mortals that night found--
+
+   "Their death in the rushing blast,
+    Their grave in the yawning sea."
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[66] Although in Antigua the tide does not ebb and flow more than
+from six to twelve inches in ordinary instances.
+
+[67] "Pic'nee" is the negro term for children.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+
+
+  Description of the town of St. John's, the capital of Antigua--
+  Situation--Arrangement of the streets--Hucksters--Houses--
+  Springs--Small shops--Stores of the retail dealers--Grog-shops
+  --Merchants' stores and lumber yards--Definition of lumber--
+  Auction sales--Scotch Row and Scotchmen--Incongruous display of
+  goods--Fire in 1797--Ruins--Fire in 1841--Its devastations.
+
+St. John's, the capital of Antigua, is situated on the west side
+of the island, and contains about 979 houses. It is built upon a
+slight declivity, and commands a beautiful view of the harbour,
+which is one of the prettiest in the West Indies.
+
+The town, which is well arranged, covers a space of about 150
+acres of land; most of the streets are wide and well-kept, and
+intersect each other at right angles--the principal ones running
+in a straight line down to the sea. There is one peculiarity
+attending the construction of these streets, which is, that there
+are no causeways; and consequently, the pedestrian traveller has
+to elbow his way amid trucks and handbarrows, gigs, carriages,
+and horsemen, droves of cattle, or cargoes of mules, just landed
+from other countries, cattle-carts, or moving houses.
+
+At the corners of the different streets are seated hucksters,
+(black or coloured women;)[68] some with their shallow trays,
+containing cakes of all descriptions, parched ground nuts, (the
+_arachis hypogoea_,) sugar-cakes, and other confections, and
+varieties of fruits and vegetables; others have piles of cottons,
+coloured calicoes, bright-tinted handkerchiefs, &c., placed by
+them, or carefully spread along the sides of the most frequented
+streets, to attract the eye of the passer-by. As most of the
+Antiguan houses are raised a few feet from the ground, which
+necessarily requires the use of a step or two, the hucksters are
+very fond of monopolizing such appurtenances; and it is no
+uncommon thing to be obliged to wait until they remove their
+different wares, before you can enter the house, or else take the
+chance of breaking your neck over heaps of potatoes, or come in
+closer contact than is advisable with bottles of ginger-drink, or
+pots and pans of gorgeous colours, from the well-known English
+potteries.
+
+The houses are generally built of wood, painted of a white or
+light stone colour, with bright green _jalousies_, or glass
+windows and green Venetian blinds. The greater number have
+covered galleries running along the sides or fronts of them, in
+which the good people love to assemble in the cool of evening,
+and while away the hours in converse sweet, or scan over the
+island newspapers--two of which issue weekly from respective
+presses, to enlighten the worthy inhabitants as to what is
+passing in their little colony.
+
+Some of these dwellings are very commodious, and make a good
+appearance, particularly when shaded by a few beautiful trees, or
+standing, as many of them do, in a small garden, embellished with
+Flora's splendid children. But as for following any of the _five
+orders_ in their architectural adornments, that is quite out of
+the question; or at least, it is an order of their own invention
+they prefer, and which may be called the Antiguan.
+
+Within these last few years, a few houses have been erected, with
+low roofs and parapet walls; the usual plan is to have that
+necessary part of the dwelling raised in the fashion of an
+English barn, or an Egyptian pyramid. One peculiarity which
+strikes the eye of a stranger in these dwellings, is the absence
+of chimneys--the kitchens being, in most instances, detached from
+the house; and the heat of the climate, as a matter of course,
+renders all grates or stoves, and their accompanying flues,
+unnecessary.
+
+Since the serious droughts in 1833, springs or wells have been
+dug in various parts of the town, which, although the water is
+brackish, are of great use for many domestic purposes,
+particularly to the lower classes, who do not possess a cistern.
+These springs have been lately modified by having water-engines
+attached to them, and enclosed by a low wall and wooden
+palisadings, painted of a bright sky-colour. Methinks, however,
+that Master Sol will soon spoil their flaunting beauty. It is a
+pity the directors of these improvements did not choose green
+instead of the other colour; for, from the whiteness of the
+streets, and the extreme glare of the sunbeams, we require
+something to relieve and cool the eye; and much as we admire the
+lovely tint of the heavens, light blue palings do not equally
+fascinate our gaze.
+
+In different parts of the town are numbers of small shops, of
+about six or eight feet square, in which varieties of trades are
+carried on. In one may be seen a cobbler--no! I beg their pardon
+--a _cordwainer_; himself shoeless, busily employed in forming,
+from his not very fragrant materials, a pair of creaking
+high-heeled boots, for the use of some black exquisite. A bunch
+of human hair attached to the end of a long stick, and moving
+with every breeze, bespeaks the abode of a barber and
+hair-dresser; while a multiplicity of shreds of cloth,
+half-finished vests, a goose, and other _et ceteras_, with a
+group of mortals seated _� la Turque_, proves beyond doubt that
+the inmates are of that particular class of beings, nine
+individuals of which are required to form one ordinary man.
+Others, again, of the receptacles of trade, are stocked with
+provisions, such as small quantities of salt pork, corn, flour,
+candles, butter, (of the consistence of honey,) a few dried peas,
+or horse-beans, and any other little matters; while some contain
+_dry goods_, as it is customary, in this island, to term all
+articles of drapery. Small as these tenements are, many of them
+are divided by a lathed partition, forming on one side a
+butcher's shamble, where an array of sheep's heads, miserable
+specimens of legs of mutton, and saffron-coloured pork, may be
+met with, which, carnivorous as it must be allowed we all are,
+few like their eyes to dwell upon; while, on the other side,
+gown-pieces, and "blue checks," with other "odds and ends," claim
+the frequenters' attention.
+
+Next to these small shops, come the stores of the retail
+provision dealers, which are upon a larger scale, and of course
+better supplied with goods. Then there are the _grog shops_, as
+they are termed, where to the heterogeneous mass of eatables,
+crockery, and tin-ware, is added the more exciting articles of
+brandy, rum, gin, porter, wine, &c.; and where of an evening,
+amid fumes of every description, (from Yanky cheese to Virginia
+tobacco,) and dim smoky oil lamps, parties of soldiers, sailors,
+dingy-looking blacks, and unfortunate females--ay! and men of
+better rank of life, who ought to blush to be found in such
+places--love to congregate, and barter health and money, for
+dirty goblets of those fiery liquids.
+
+When passing, in an evening, these _store-houses for crime_, they
+forcibly bring to my mind thoughts of Pandemonium. The dusky
+lamps, at one moment sending forth their long flaming tongues,
+the next, only serving to make darkness visible; the crowds of
+negroes, with their gleaming eyes and glittering teeth,
+presenting the appearance of so many attending demons; the groups
+of white soldiers or sailors, looking more pallid in the
+flickering lamp-light, and greedily quaffing the deleterious
+fluid, which, sooner or later, preys upon their very vitals--and
+then the various sounds of cursing and quarrelling, idiotic
+laughter, discordant singing, and incoherent talking, as the
+miserable frequenters arrive at the different stages of
+intoxication,--conspire to render it more like a council-chamber
+of tormented spirits, than the self-chosen place of amusement of
+rational creatures.
+
+The next grade of these places of merchandise are, the merchants'
+stores or warehouses, with their attached lumber-yards. These
+are, in most instances, large, dismal-looking buildings, whose
+unwashed rafters afford safe protection to innumerable spiders of
+every size, or present a desirable spot for the freemasons (the
+ichneumon bee) to erect their clayey dwellings upon. One corner
+of these vast emporiums is latticed off, forming a
+counting-house, decorated with a coat of white, green, or yellow
+paint, and shewing its chequers of red tape, for the purpose of
+sticking orders, letters, or bank-notices for payments, due at
+the Colonial or West India Bank. Here, on a high-legged stool, of
+dingy look, sits the merchant, dressed in his round, white
+jacket, snowy pantaloons, Panama or Paget hat; and, with pen in
+hand, and a pinch of _Lundy-foot_ between his fingers, (to assist
+his ideas, I suppose,) calculates the probabilities of his
+_'specs_, which in other days afforded such golden harvests as to
+give rise to the belief, that the streets in the West Indies were
+paved with doubloons and dollars.
+
+But let it not be imagined that this worthy and numerous class
+employ all their business-hours in calculating their gains and
+losses, poring over the leaves of a dusty ledger, or puzzling
+their brains over their "bank accounts." Oh! no, no--the Antiguan
+merchants are far too wise for that--many a bowl of
+"pepper-punch" is brewed; many a long cork of approved brand is
+drawn, and the "rosy red" _Vin de Bordeaux_ is poured into the
+tendered crystal; and many a bottle of champagne, or "Tennent's
+pale ale," is unwired, uncorked, and its creamy excellence
+effused for them. Nor is the tongue idle; well-seasoned jests and
+brilliant repartees abound; news is discussed, wit flies like
+arrows, and many a rosy face grows more roseate, and many a
+laughing eye becomes dewy before they part.
+
+But I must say something more about the stores--what a scene of
+confusion they present to the unaccustomed eye!--what varied and
+multiplied articles do they display! In one part are hogsheads of
+salt cod, herrings, and other salted fish; bins of Indian corn,
+rice, peas, and salt; flour, tobacco, barrels of blacking, and
+kegs of lard. In another part may be found barrels of beef and
+mess-pork; hogsheads of prime Cumberland hams, kits of ox
+tongues, and barrels of biscuits; sparkling Moselle, hock,
+seltzer-water, and lamp-oil; preserved meats and soups, and kegs
+of crackers; pitch, tar, rosin, and oats; block-tin tureens,
+spirits of turpentine, and Cognac brandy; crates of earthenware,
+rose nails, and hogsheads of tin-ware; with London pickles,
+agricultural implements, and hair-brooms. On another side of the
+store lie huddled together hogsheads of Barclay's brown stout,
+boxes of soap, bundles of wood-hoops, and cases of gilded
+cornices; boxes of raisins and currants, paving flags, and masts
+and oars; firkins of Cork butter, hogsheads of lime, and patent
+corkscrews; Hyson teas, Durham mustard, loaf-sugar, and Havannah
+cigars; potatoes, onions, Bologna sausage, and blacksmiths'
+coals; artificers' tools, anti-corrosion paint, currycombs, and
+_gold watches_; the whole wound up with Rowland's Macassar oil,
+floating soap, and quack medicines, consisting of Morrison's
+pills, and Swain's Panacea, which, if we believe the labels, are
+to cure every ill "that flesh is heir to;" while from the ceiling
+dangle in graceful negligence, coils of rope, and horses'
+halters.
+
+To prove to any of my readers who may be sceptical of the truth
+of such a _various_ assemblage of goods, as I have stated the
+merchant's stores contain, I will give a _correct copy_ of a
+cargo handed about to the different merchants, as brought by an
+American vessel arrived to-day:--
+
+       CARGO ON BOARD BRIG "RANDOLPH," FROM PHILADELPHIA.
+
+   12 barrels pitch             1 box fine beaver hats
+  118 covered hams            100 boxes cheese
+    2 casks of shoulders        3 doz. Windsor chairs
+   30 barrels pilot bread      16 nurses' rocking chairs
+   10 do. navy do.              8 ladies' cane do.
+  30-3 do. sugar biscuits       1 doz. children's do.
+  20-3 do. soda                49 barrels potatoes
+  20-3 crackers               18� gross lucifer matches
+   50 kegs lard                 1 mahogany spring-seat sofa
+   30 blls. mess pork           1 do. wash-stand, marble top
+  100 kegs butter               3 boxes stationery
+   13 boxes lump tobacco        4 backgammon boards
+   20 do. champagne cider      12 bridles
+   20 doz. buckets            22� doz. black ink in boxes
+   50 boxes soap, 24 lbs.       1 mahogany spring-seat, rocking chair
+  700  do.    16 lbs.           2 wooden arm chairs
+   50 do. mould candles
+   17 do.  do.
+
+        Offers in cash, or negotiable notes, 1 o'clock.
+
+From the store we will take a walk into the lumber yard. But
+before I proceed to describe it, it will be necessary for me to
+make another digression, and let those of my readers who may be
+yet ignorant of the real meaning of the term know what "lumber"
+is. Upon my first acquaintance with West Indians, I was
+particularly surprised to hear them talk so much about _lumber_,
+and of Mr. This and Mr. That dealing in such commodity. As my
+mind has ever been apt to roam far and wide, I no sooner heard
+the merits of this peculiar article (if I may so call it)
+discussed, than my schooldays' tasks presented themselves to my
+recollection, and I mentally murmured with Dr. Johnson, "lum-ber,
+lumber, old useless furniture."
+
+Having arrived at this definition, again I fancied myself amid
+broken chairs and tables, sofas minus a leg, shattered
+looking-glasses, musty, dusty, rusty, grates, antique bottles,
+and similar chattels, where in one of my hoyden days I had
+scrambled to look for a bird-cage in which to imprison a poor
+half-fledged skylark, captured for me by a little ragged
+_prot�g�_ of mine, known by the true English name of "Bill."
+
+Yet still I was not satisfied; for what, thought I, can West
+Indian merchants find so particularly valuable in all these
+divers specimens of mutilation, as to induce them to deal so
+largely in them? I could only answer mine own query by exclaiming
+"'tis strange! 'tis passing strange!" Time wore on, however, and
+I arrived at Antigua; then my wonder soon ceased, and I found out
+that in fact a _lumber merchant_ signifies nothing less than a
+dealer in _timber_.
+
+Having endeavoured to give the Antiguan definition of lumber, I
+will now proceed to describe "the yard." It is generally entered
+by passing through the store, at the hazard of putting your foot
+into pools of rosin or varnish, slipping over stray peas, or
+half-breaking your neck over heaps of brickbats. At length the
+yard is gained, and drawing a long breath, as much from heat as
+exercise, I look around. On each side of the door are huge stacks
+of staves, piled up in a very uniform manner, used for making
+hogsheads or tierces for packing sugar, or puncheons for the
+conveyance of rum. In other parts of the yard are bundles of
+cypress or cedar shingles,[69] white and pitch pine boards,
+planks and scantlings, all packed in appropriate order; that is,
+when they are not landing cargoes, and the master has an eye to
+tidy appearances; but if this is not the case, the different
+species of lumber are tumbling about in all directions.
+
+Then there are large sheds erected in various parts of the yard,
+for the purpose of securing "hard-wood" (as mahogany,
+mill-timber, &c.) from the effects of the weather. There is also
+very generally a pigeon-house or two to be met with, and their
+pretty inmates may be seen gliding about, picking up the
+scattered grain, or, perched upon one of the lumber stacks, watch
+your every movement with their bright round eyes, while their
+variegated breasts glitter in the sun-beams like so many gems. At
+the bottom of the yard large gates open to the sea, furnished
+with a huge crane; and here it is that all those incongruous
+articles which fill their stores, and bring wealth to their
+coffers, are landed.
+
+When the merchants are visited by certain fears and twitchings,
+relative to the fact of their not being able to dispose of their
+diversified merchandise, they "call an auction;" and under the
+auspices of the red flag,[70] and with the assistance of the
+auctioneer's lungs and hammer, instead of harlequin's magic wand,
+turn all these "creature's comforts" into pounds, shillings, and
+pence.
+
+In some parts of the town are auction rooms, where, with the same
+laudable zeal for "charming variety," things as distinct from
+each other as the nadir is from the zenith, are put up, the
+mysterious words "going, going, _gone_" uttered, and finally
+knocked down to the attendants--whites, blacks, and coloured.
+
+Having mentioned the stores of those philanthropists, who, for
+the mere consideration of a little dirty _pelf_, undertake to
+provide so liberally for the inner man, it will be necessary to
+take a look at those temples of fashion, fancy, and fascination,
+commonly known in this island as "Scotch shops," or in other
+words, Antiguan haberdashery stores.
+
+In a particular part of St. John's, running north and south, lies
+a well-made broad street, which, from being inhabited principally
+by Scotchmen, is known by the appropriated name of "Scotch Row."
+Capital stores (when I _am_ at Rome, I like to do as Rome does,
+and give everything its approved title) flank each side of the
+street, and display their glittering wares to the admiration of
+passers-by; and from whence (with but few exceptions) emanate
+those dresses and ribbons of a thousand dyes, with which the
+_fair sex_ of _every colour_ delight to enrobe their lovely
+forms.
+
+Here, as in the merchants' stores, may be found articles of the
+most opposite natures. In one part lies a delicate white satin
+bonnet, with its bunches of "orange flowers," to grace the head
+of some blushing bride, or decorated with the snowy plumes torn
+by the swarthy African from some swift-footed ostrich; while by
+its side reposes a broken ewer, or an iron pot.
+
+You may, in truth, buy anything and everything in these "Scotch
+shops," from three farthings' worth of tape to the most costly
+articles. Dresses of all kinds; ribbons, laces, flowers, and
+bonnets; coats, vests, pantaloons, umbrellas, and shoes; blondes,
+scarfs, mantelets, perfumery, and _tenpenny nails_; paint,
+frying-pans, and carpets; jewellery of every description,
+dripping-pans, and Seidlitz powders; Epsom salts, ginger-beer,
+and white lead; horses' halters, cherry-tree chairs, and
+preserved fruits; children's dresses, lanterns, horse-whips, and
+coffee; sugar-loaves, saddles, bonnet-shapes, and white-handled
+knives; ladies' corsets, Valenciennes edging, and Westphalia
+hams; pigs' tongues, truckle cheese, and bird-seed; dish-covers,
+bottle-baskets, hooks-and-eyes, and brimstone; harness, cattle
+medicines, and lozenges; "Mechian" razor strops, and Metcalf's
+toothbrushes; with brandy, champagne, Madeira, sherry, port,
+sauterne, Rhenish wines, bottled stout, pale ale, glasses to
+drink all these good articles out of, and I know not what
+besides. Loaves of sugar dangling by the side of zephyr scarfs,
+or candle-boxes _vis-�-vis_ with ostrich feathers.
+
+Oh! ye tradesmen of Regent-street, so polite and perfumed, and
+such _calibre_, who stand behind your glossy counters with the
+air of "my lord duke," or glide with noiseless steps and mincing
+airs over your Persian carpeted floor,--what, _what_ would you
+think of our Antiguan shops? Or how would those over-fashionable
+gentlemen at Storr and Mortimer's be astounded, when tendering
+for approval to "beauty bright" those costly gems which carry us
+back to the days of the Arabian nights, if they came in contact
+with a brass kettle or an iron pot!
+
+I often wonder how the pale-faced, straight-haired clerks (for
+they are not termed _shopmen_ in this part of the world) manage
+to get on among such a multiplicity of dissimilar articles; or
+that from being asked for so many contrary goods during the day,
+they do not make many and greater mistakes. A lady drives up in
+her carriage to the door of one of these labyrinthan _dep�ts_ of
+vanity, and in that "low soft voice so sweet in woman," asks to
+be shewn some orange flower chaplets, and essence of
+_Frangipanier_. The poor clerk, his brains turning round like a
+revolving light, flies to obey her commands; but lo! in his hurry
+and confusion, he catches up a _frying-pan_, and with streaming
+brow, presents the inelegant article to the lady's astounded and
+horrified gaze, instead of the delicate perfume.
+
+The master of these gay and changeful stores, is as diversiformed
+as his goods are various. In the morning he stands behind his
+counter, and "bows to" and "ma'am's" any black member of the
+_canaille_ that condescends to purchase a few yards of
+"half-a-bit" (2d. sterling) ribbon to sandal her mill-post ankle;
+while in the evening, in all the glories of white pantaloons, new
+coat, smart buttons and embroidered stock, he figures away at an
+aristocratic dinner party.
+
+Times are indeed altered with these Scotchmen. In former years,
+when Sawney left his mountain home, his trouty lochs, and oaten
+bannocks, for the hot suns and debilitating climate of these
+"Isles of the West;" he did it for the sake alone of _siller_. As
+to ambition--faugh! he hated the very name, or else, like the
+cock in Esop's fable, he spurned the glittering bauble, of which
+he knew not the worth. They plodded on from year to year,
+increased their stock of goods, and added many a round dollar to
+their worldly wealth, and then sat down contentedly to enjoy the
+smoky flavour of their usquebaugh, forming no greater
+acquaintance with the governor, than as they saw him proceed to
+the court-house in discharge of his high office, or knowing no
+more of government-house than the outer appearance.
+
+But the Scotchmen of the present day scorn the lowly ideas of
+their predecessors. They ape the man of fashion, call their
+haberdashery store a merchant's warehouse, and foregoing the
+vulgar title of draper, take to themselves the loftier name of
+_merchant_. Nor is this all. They attend the governor's _levees_,
+play the amiable at a quadrille party, frequent the billiard
+table, or perchance take wine with his excellency, and grin and
+bow with approved precision. Their shops prove an agreeable
+morning lounge for the superiors of the island, and in a glass of
+_sangaree_, or a flowing bowl of _pepper-punch_, the difference
+of grade between the entertainer and the entertained is
+overlooked.
+
+That "there is no rule without an exception," is a true
+apophthegm; and among the many emigrants from the "land o'
+cakes," some very respectable individuals are to be met with.
+
+I believe it a correct statement to assert, that "Scotch Row"
+begins with one of this superior class, and ends with him who has
+been called "The father of the Scotchmen," not from his age, but
+from his high conduct.
+
+Mr. H------ is a man in whom great urbanity is blended with
+strong determination of character. He possesses varied talents,
+and is no mean disciple of St. Cecilia's; and although, perhaps,
+not altogether ranking among the _literati_ in the fuller sense
+of that term, yet he
+
+   "----laughing can instruct Much has he read,
+    Much more has seen: he studied from the life,
+    And in the original perused mankind."
+
+Philosophy to him, however, is no gloomy subject; no solemn
+stalking about wrapt up in his own stately ideas, and scorning,
+with cynic's eye, any harmless mirth. In the words of one of
+Britain's poets, I may say of him--
+
+   "----nor purpose gay,
+    Amusement, dance or song, he sternly scorns."
+
+Nature seems to have intended him for a higher occupation, than
+to stand behind a counter and sell a few yards of tape, or a
+paper of pins.
+
+The streets of the capital have all their proper appellations,
+although no painted board announces such a fact to the traveller.
+The east and west streets, beginning southerly, are--
+South-street, Tanner, Nevis, Ratcliff, St. Mary's, High, Long,
+Church, Newgate, Wapping, North, Bishopsgate, St. John's, St.
+George's; north and south streets, beginning easterly, are--
+East-street, Cross, Church-lane, Temple, Steeple-street, Corn,
+Market, Friendly-alley, Gutter-lane, Newgate-lane, Popeshead,
+Thames, Coney-Warren-lane, Subscription-alley, Craw-lane,
+Wilkinson's-street, and Mariner's-lane. Some of these lanes and
+alleys are famous for their _grog-shops_, particularly that
+establishment known by the appropriate name of "The
+Hole-in-the-Wall," for the only entrance is a low arched door-way
+scooped out of its massy walls.
+
+One part of the town bears the somewhat lofty title of "The
+Parade." In former years it answered as a kind of exchange, where
+the merchants congregated together during "'Change hours," and
+discussed the business of the commercial world. Cargoes of all
+descriptions were here disposed of; dollars and doubloons in one
+moment changed owners, and human flesh and blood was openly
+bartered. For a long period, however, the Parade visibly declined
+in importance, and became but the shadow of itself; but within
+these last few years, it has, phoenix like, sprung up with
+renewed vigour, and presents to the passenger's eye many good and
+bustling stores.
+
+St. John's has, at various times, suffered severely from
+conflagrations--a circumstance not to be wondered at, when we
+consider the great number of wooden buildings, and the
+carelessness of persons in throwing about particles of fire. In
+1769, an accident of this nature occurred, which was most direful
+in its consequence. It arose from the negligence of a woman who
+was employed in ironing, and who omitted to extinguish the fire
+in a coal-pot, after finishing her labours.
+
+It may be necessary, perhaps, for the comprehension of some of my
+readers who may not be conversant with West Indian domestic
+subjects, to mention more fully the construction of a coal-pot.
+In some of the islands these utensils are composed of clay,
+moulded into the form of buckets, and baked in a moderate fire;
+but the Antiguan coal-pot is nothing more nor less than a deal
+box, clamped with iron or tin, and lined with bricks plastered
+over. A few pieces of old iron hoop are placed horizontally
+across the box at stated intervals about halfway from the bottom,
+and upon these is placed a layer of charcoal. The irons are
+arranged upon the top, and the coals ignited; no bellows are
+used, except what Nature has afforded in the owners' own lungs;
+or when their breath fails, and the fuel still proves refractory,
+their large straw hat is displaced from their heads, and
+brandished before the mouths of their little stoves, with sundry
+ejaculations of "Eh! eh! war do de co-als to-day, me b'lieve dem
+no want to burney."
+
+But to return to the fire in 1769; it burnt with fearful
+rapidity. The gaol, custom-house, indeed nearly the whole town,
+fell a prey to the destructive element, 260 houses being levelled
+with the ground, and some of the finest stores and richest
+merchandise destroyed. Government granted 1000l. for the relief
+of the sufferers; and their kind friends in Liverpool collected,
+during the following year, the sum of 346l. 2s. 6d., which was
+thankfully and gratefully received.
+
+Many other fires have occurred since then, the vestiges of which
+remain to this day; one in particular, known by the appropriate
+name of the burnt wall, is still pointed out to the notice of the
+stranger. Part of this land has been lately purchased by the
+Wesleyans, who have erected a small chapel upon it, which answers
+also for a school-room, and where preaching is held on Friday
+evenings.
+
+But the conflagration which happened on the 2nd April, 1841, has
+effaced the memory of all other events of the same nature. It
+broke out in the house of a person carrying on the business of a
+straw bonnet-maker, after the family had retired to rest, and it
+was only discovered in time for the inmates to make their escape
+by jumping from the upper windows.
+
+A few moments after it was first perceived, the walls fell, and
+the flames burst forth with a fearful rapidity, curling and
+twisting themselves in all directions; seizing upon every thing
+within their reach, and illuminating the heavens with their
+awfully grand lustre. The church bell tolled forth its solemn
+warning; drums beat an alarm; and, in the words of an old writer,
+when describing the fire in London in 1666, "dreadful screams
+disturbed the midnight quiet, and raised the affrighted people
+from their beds, who, scarce awake, all seemed to be a dream.
+Each one appeared but as a moving statue, as once Lot's wife,
+viewing her flaming Sodom, was transformed into a pillar."
+
+So saith "Samuel Wiseman," and his graphic description answers
+equally for the fire of Antigua, as it did in yore, for that of
+London.
+
+House after house, store after store, fell beneath the raging
+element; or, when built of stone, only their bare and blackened
+walls were left standing. No sooner was one house on fire, than
+the flames were pouring into the windows of the next; scathing
+the trees as they passed, dismantling them of their verdure, and
+leaving them only a seared and withered trunk. Again the Custom
+House fell a victim, and to this cause many deficiencies in the
+statistical part of this work may be attributed; for, from the
+suddenness and violence of the fire, many valuable records were
+lost.
+
+Still the fiery deluge rolled on,--at one moment the sky was
+almost hidden by the dense masses of smoke; at another, bright
+spiral lines of flame shot up into the air, and cast a lurid
+light on all around. I am sorry to record it, but the negro-men
+behaved very ill, refusing to lend assistance, (in most
+instances,) but employing their time in plundering from the
+sufferers. To the glory of the women, be it spoken, _they_ did
+not follow the example of their kinsmen, but cheerfully and
+firmly laboured through that awful night. The crew of two French
+ships of war, which chanced to be lying in the harbour, also
+assisted, aided by the sailors from the English and island
+vessels; and the gentlemen of the town, headed by the
+lieutenant-governor, Major McPhail, (who flew to the scene of
+danger stockingless and almost slipperless,) worked with
+undaunted courage and good-will; and by dint of energy, and
+pulling down several small houses, so as to make room for the
+flames in their gyral evolutions, at length succeeded in gaining
+the mastery over their formidable enemy.
+
+But, alas! when morning came, and threw a steady light upon the
+picture, what a melancholy sight was presented to the view. A
+long line of building, including the best and finest houses,
+entirely destroyed; lumber-yards and warehouses despoiled of
+their goods, and the very streets strewed ankle-deep with burnt
+salt-fish, peas, rice, flour, and similar articles! In some parts
+might be seen groups of negroes carousing around some gutted
+dwelling, tearing out the burning provisions, and, amid all this
+desolation and the mournful feelings of men, who, in one short
+night, had lost that for which they had toiled for years,
+shouting forth from their stentorian lungs snatches of some
+bacchanalian song, or allowing their vacant heartless laugh to
+vibrate painfully upon the silent morning air.
+
+Ever and anon, the smouldering fire sent up some fitful glare; or
+a brilliant coruscation of sparks, shot forth from some still
+burning log of pitch-pine, gilded the surrounding scene with
+their beautiful but dangerous showers. The fire burnt down to the
+sea-side; seizing upon the very timber of the wharfs and cranes,
+and destroying them to the water's edge. The amount of damage has
+been estimated at 250,000l. sterling; but the loss is more than
+can be calculated, for it has despoiled and depopulated one of
+the finest and busiest streets in the town, and which, from the
+depressed state of trade, will be long, very long, before it is
+again rebuilt.
+
+More than eight months have silently rolled by since that awful
+cry of "Fire" awoke the Antiguans from their tranquil slumbers,
+and sent a thrill of dismay through the hearts of all. And there
+stand the ruins, blackened and cracked by the intense heat which
+caused the very glass to pour down in streams, which, when
+congealed, appeared like icicles; or else, only shewing by the
+open space, where the ill-fated dwellings stood--where the voice
+of happy infancy once uttered many a jocund shout--or where the
+soft full tone of riper years carolled many a light and gladsome
+lay. Long grass and luxuriant weeds have already grown up in the
+spot once dedicated to business or pleasure, and the bat and the
+lizard have made it their own.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[68] The whites, or Buckra's, as they are called in the West
+Indies, however indigent in circumstances, pride prohibits them
+from engaging in such industrious pursuits.
+
+[69] Used for covering the tops of houses, as tiles or slates are
+in England.
+
+[70] A flag is always hoisted upon places where a sale is held.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XIX.
+
+
+
+  Description of the church of St John's--Period of its erection
+  --Present site--Panoramic views--Form of structure--Length and
+  breadth--Interior--Decorations--Monuments--Organ--Tower--Bells
+  --Clock--Churchyard--Tombs and sepulchral inscriptions--An
+  acrostic--"Adam and Eve!"
+
+The first place of public worship erected in St. John's was the
+parochial church, commenced in 1683-4. It was a small wooden
+building, standing about sixty yards further to the south than
+the present church; and, if we are to believe an old writer,
+totally destitute of beauty or comfort. During the administration
+of Gen. Walter Hamilton, it was found to be in such a dilapidated
+state, that in 1716 the necessity of erecting a new church was
+submitted to the legislature; and with the concurrence of the
+members of that body, an act was passed the same year, granting a
+provision for building a new place of worship, (to be dedicated
+to St. John,) and imposing a yearly tax for the purpose of
+keeping the said church in repair. It was not, however, until
+between the years 1721 and 1723, during the period that John Hart
+was administrating the government of these islands, that the
+erection of the church was commenced. Mr. Robert Cullen was the
+architect, and by his suggestions, its site was laid to the north
+of the old building; thus occupying the very spot where the
+militia were stationed in 1710, when ordered to fire upon
+Governor Park, in that unhappy difference between him and the
+country, and which ended so fatally to himself.
+
+The present parochial church is pleasantly situated upon an
+ascent, at the head of the town, and commands from every side a
+wide and beautiful view of the surrounding country. From the west
+door, the eye ranges over the bustling town, with its motley
+groups of passengers--dwells for a time upon the long line of
+ruined buildings destroyed by the fire already described--scans
+the lovely harbour, with its graceful shipping, the interesting
+bay of the Five Islands on the one side, and, on the other, a
+long line of cocoa-nut trees and brilliant sand, bespeaking the
+situation of Dickenson's Bay--and then roves on to the offing,
+where a large extent of ocean of the sweetest blue stretches out;
+and where, perhaps, a far-off sail may be seen, which looks in
+the distance like the white wing of some passing gull.
+
+From the south door, another beautiful and panoramic view may be
+obtained, particularly towards the close of the day, when the sun
+has almost completed his daily journey, and, shorn of his fervent
+beams, throws on every cloud his myriad dyes. The part of the
+town then presented to the gaze of the beholder slopes by a
+gradual descent towards the suburbs, bounded by Otto's Hill (an
+estate belonging to the representatives of Bastien Baijer) and
+the surrounding country. At the extent of the horizon runs a long
+range of mountains--the more distant ones presenting a greyish,
+gloomy colour, while others have their tops irradiated with a
+brilliant fringe of gold or purple, as the different clouds
+appear to rest upon them. Of this chain, the declivities of which
+afford every species of beauty, and every gradation of varying
+green, the lower ones are generally in a state of cultivation;
+and their undulating surface presents in some places groups of
+lovely trees, or breaks into patches of sugar-canes, clusters of
+negro-huts, and sugar-mills.
+
+The church itself, which is built of brick, washed of a light
+yellow, is cruciform; the north and south vestibules forming the
+arms of the cross. The extreme length, from the inner west door
+to the altar-piece, is 130 feet; and the breadth, exclusive of
+the vestibules, (or porches,) is 50 feet. In the interior,
+eighteen plain wooden pillars divide the nave from the north and
+south aisles; the sixteen lower ones forming the support to the
+north and south galleries. The roof of the nave is a semicircular
+vault, painted to represent the heavens, with all their drapery
+of light and fleecy clouds; and when viewed from the west door,
+has a very pretty effect.
+
+The chancel roof is of the same pitch, but of a pyramidal form;
+it is painted in the same manner as the nave, and is supported by
+four square fluted columns.
+
+The altar is very beautifully devised. In the centre are the
+tables of the ten commandments, gold-lettered upon a black
+ground. On each side are full-length paintings of Moses, and of
+Aaron, in his "holy garments." That of Aaron is very finely
+executed; the face is such as we can imagine that of the great
+"high-priest" to have been, majestic, but beautiful; and the
+"robes," the "breast-plate," the "ephod," the "curious girdle,"
+and the "golden censer," are very correctly painted. The outer
+tables of "The Belief" and "Lord's Prayer" are handsomely gilded
+--the inscription being executed in letters of black; and over
+the commandments, in the centre of the altar, is a medallion
+painting of cherubs. The several compartments are divided by
+gilded pilasters; the cornices, architraves, and friezes, are
+very pretty and tasteful; and in the inter-columniations are one
+or two triglyphs.
+
+The communion-table is covered with dark purple velvet, fringed
+deeply with gold; and on either end lie cushions to match. The
+communion-service plate is very handsome; the large salver,
+measuring eighteen inches in diameter, was presented to the
+church by John Otto Baijer, Esq., about the year 1724. It
+displays a representation of the "Lord's Supper," the figures in
+beautiful _basso-relievo_, and bears the following inscription:--
+
+               Donum Domini Johannis Otto Baijer
+               Ad Templum Divi Johannis Antigua.
+
+The two smaller salvers and the cup are inscribed as follows:--
+
+            In usum Templi Divi Johannis in Antigua
+         Gulielmus Jones Parochialis hujus olim Rector
+                          Donum Dedit.
+
+Besides the communion-plate, the table supports a pair of tall
+silver lamps, with ground-glass burners, bearing the
+inscription--
+
+             Donum Domini Petre Lee ad Templum Divi
+                      Johannis in Antigua.
+
+And on each side of the table stand quaint-looking chairs, for
+the accommodation of the bishop and archdeacon, which have been
+used for that purpose since the dismantling of the "Bishop's
+Pew."
+
+The pulpit and desk are of dark oak, as also the railings to the
+stairs; and, like the communion-table, have each their drapery
+and cushions of dark purple, with deep gold fringe and tassels,
+and the "I. H. S." encircled with its golden rays. Formerly the
+pulpit, surmounted by a sounding-board, stood further down the
+nave; but after being removed once or twice, the desk has been
+separated from the pulpit, and they are placed at the entrance of
+the chancel, on each side the aisle.
+
+About the centre of the church is suspended a brass chandelier,
+consisting of ten branches, which have been lately fitted up with
+ground-glass burners; it was a gift (by will, 2nd May, 1740) to
+the church, from Phillip Darby, an old inhabitant of Antigua, and
+rector of St. John's.
+
+At the entrance of the church from the north vestibule stands a
+small marble font, of a semi-spherical form, ornamented with four
+heads of cherubs, and supported by a corniform pedestal. It is
+intended to be placed at the extreme end of the middle aisle,
+immediately before the west entrance, and opposite the altar--a
+site far more applicable for it than where it now stands.
+
+The church is lighted by fourteen windows: six in the north
+aisle, six in the south aisle, and two in the east end of the
+building. Formerly they were all fitted up with _jalousies_; but
+within these last few years, the eight nearest the altar have
+been reglazed with ground glass, arranged in a Gothic pattern.
+These windows are divided into six compartments; and are so
+contrived, that, by aid of a turnscrew, they can be opened to a
+certain height. They certainly add to the _beauty_ of the
+edifice, but deteriorate from its _comfort_ by rendering it
+warmer than it otherwise would be: a circumstance not desirable
+in this fervid climate.
+
+Several fine monuments grace the walls of this sacred building;
+but the oldest sepulchral inscription is upon a stone slab, in
+the chancel, to the memory of Mrs. Gilbert, wife of Mr. Gilbert,
+who introduced methodism[71] in Antigua, and who died in 1747.
+
+In the south aisle are the following monuments:--
+
+An elegant mural monument of white marble upon a black ground,
+erected to the memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Ottley, wife of Richard
+Ottley, Esq., and daughter of Ashton Warner, speaker of the house
+of assembly in 1716. The ornamental part of this monument
+consists of the figure of a seraph with outspread wings, leaning
+upon a sepulchral urn, bearing a coronal of undying laurel leaves
+in its right hand; and in its left an inverted torch, partly
+extinguished, emblematical of the uncertainty of human life. The
+inscription is as follows:--
+
+"Near to this place is laid, with the remains of her honoured
+parents, the body of Elizabeth, the pious, amiable, and
+much-beloved wife of Richard Ottley; who departed this life, in
+the Island of St Vincent, on Thursday, 28th August, in the year
+of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and sixty-six, in the
+thirty-second year of her age.
+
+"She was the daughter of Ashton Warner, Esq.,[72]
+Attorney-General of Antigua, by Elizabeth, his wife, and was born
+the 7th June, 1735, O.S.; married 25th October, in the year 1753,
+and left issue surviving her, one son and three daughters--viz.,
+Drewry, Elizabeth, Mary Trant, and Alice.
+
+"She possessed a graceful person, an excellent understanding, and
+a sweetness of disposition that engaged the esteem of all that
+knew her, and performed with so much complacency the several
+duties in her family, and those of a good friend and neighbour,
+that it may be truly said she died universally lamented, and a
+real loss to that infant colony. Her inconsolable husband (in
+whose arms she expired, after bearing with admirable fortitude
+and resignation the excruciating pains of a long and difficult
+labour) caused this monument to be erected to her memory.
+
+"The son with whom she died reclines upon that breast which would
+have nourished him had the Almighty so permitted."
+
+A very chaste and elegant white marble tablet, forming a Gothic
+arch, erected to the memory of the Honourable Sam. Otto Baijer, a
+descendant of Bastien Baijer, who signed the capitulation in
+1666, bearing the following inscription:--
+
+             As a last mournful token of affection,
+                   This Tablet is erected by
+                  Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,
+              To the memory of her beloved Father,
+               The Honourable Samuel Otto Baijer,
+                Of Pares Estate, in this Island;
+                    Who died at Philadelphia
+                 On the 20th of December, 1835,
+                         Aged 54 years.
+
+               Also to the memory of her Mother,
+                  Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,
+                Who died in 1813, at Dove Hall,
+                   In the Island of Jamaica,
+                  In the 27th year of her age.
+
+               Also to the memory of her Brother,
+                 Rowland Archibald Otto Baijer,
+                     Son of the above-named
+        Samuel Otto Baijer and Mary Elizabeth his Wife,
+           Who died at Pares Estate, in this Island,
+                 On the 24th of November, 1837,
+                  Aged 25 years and 8 months,
+            And whose remains repose near this spot.
+
+A small, unpretending marble tablet:--
+
+                             Sacred
+                        To the Memory of
+                     Elizabeth Jane Harman,
+             Who died on the 16th April, A.D. 1828,
+                         Aged 21 years.
+          "We have this treasure in earthen vessels."
+
+A pyramidal monument, supported by fluted pillars, and bearing a
+small sarcophagus, surmounted by two figures of children or
+cherubs, holding in their hands a scroll, on which is written
+texts from Scripture. The inscription is as follows:--
+
+"Supported only by a meek obedience to the decrees of Eternal
+Wisdom, and a firm trust in the Atonement of a gracious Redeemer,
+William and Ruth Atkinson, once inhabitants of Antigua, and now
+of Dominica, as an inadequate evidence of their intense and
+aggravated anguish for the poignant and crushing trial they have
+undergone in the loss of both their children, pay this melancholy
+tribute, when advancing into manly, lively virtue, such as fills
+the parents' soul with solid comfort.
+
+"George Atkinson, their first and last spared hope, had nearly
+reached his twelfth year. This blooming prop of their declining
+age--when, by a mild and artless truth, joined to innate goodness
+and suavity of temper, he had irresistibly won the esteem and
+love of all--quitted this life without a struggle on Sunday, 5th
+Dec. 1779.
+
+"William Atkinson, their youngest, died in infancy.
+
+    What poets paint, what marbles feebly tell,
+    Defective far are all;
+    Such woes are only to be known
+    To real feeling souls.
+    Where equal growing filial worth's bewail'd,
+    The name of Son thus lost, all consolation fail'd.
+    1782."[73]
+
+A small tablet, representing a white scroll upon a black ground,
+surmounted by a laurel chaplet, bearing inscription:
+
+                          In memory of
+                         Auther Teagle,
+                     Who departed this life
+                  On the 20th November, 1839,
+                         Aged 43 years.
+                      "Thy will be done."
+
+In the north aisle are four monuments; the first, beginning from
+the east, erected to a late curate of St. John's. It consists of
+a white marble tablet, and above, the figure of an angel soaring
+upwards, and encompassed with clouds. The tablet bears the
+following inscription:--
+
+                        To the memory of
+             The Rev. William Thomas Bernard, A.B.,
+                  Of Trinity College, Dublin,
+                  Late curate of this parish,
+         Where, after a short residence of four months,
+         In the faithful exercise of his ministry, and
+            The manifestation of much private worth,
+               He died of fever, Nov. 2nd, 1835,
+                  In the 26th year of his age,
+              Most deeply and generally regretted,
+              This tribute of esteem and affection
+                          Is erected,
+              Partly by his much afflicted Sister,
+                        Ellen M. Baily,
+   And partly by the Right Rev. William Hart Coleridge, D.D.,
+                  Lord Bishop of this diocese,
+        The clergy of Antigua, and other friends in the
+               Island, who mourn his early loss.
+
+Beneath the tablet are his coat of arms, with the motto--
+
+                      "Bear and Forbear."
+
+A white marble monument, with a deep border of variegated brown
+marble, to the memory of a descendant of Sir Thomas Warner. The
+ornamental part consists of a female figure enveloped in
+widow-like drapery, and leaning upon an urn. The inscription is
+as follows:--
+
+                         This monument
+                  Is erected to the memory of
+              The Honourable William Warner, Esq.,
+           Who was a member of His Majesty's Council,
+                 And Treasurer of this Island.
+            Honourable by his office of Counsellor,
+                              But
+                   More honourable as a man:
+                             For if
+                 Virtue alone is true nobility,
+       And if justice, moderation, temperance, meekness,
+          Consummate honesty, charity, generosity, and
+Conjugal affection, are virtues that are held in any estimation
+                           Among men,
+                           This man,
+             Who lived in the exercise of them all
+                     Was truly honourable.
+He died on Friday, 11 October, 1771, in the forty-third year of
+his age,
+Universally regretted, and lamented by all orders and degrees
+among
+                              Us.
+    To commemorate her anguish for his loss, and as a public
+  Testimony of her love and duty, his disconsolate widow hath
+               Caused this memorial to be raised.
+                    Gloria in excelsis Deo!
+
+A very elegantly designed white pyramidal monument erected to the
+memory of an only child. A chastely sculptured female figure
+leans upon a "storied urn," with a beautifully chiselled wreath
+of flowers thrown around her. This monument has been
+unfortunately injured, one of the hands and part of the arm of
+the figure being broken off.
+
+          In memory of her only and beloved daughter,
+                         Sarah Kelsick,
+         Wife of Mr. John Kelsick, merchant in Antigua,
+              Who died on 20th day of March, 1785,
+                  In the 19th year of her age.
+     This monument was erected by her disconsolate mother,
+                        Sarah Eccleston,
+                 Wife of Isaac Eccleston, Esq.,
+                             1792.
+           From the parent, the husband, the friend,
+                 Her social and amiable virtues
+                Claim the tribute of affliction,
+                   And though early cut off,
+           She must ever live in the memory of those
+           Who had the happiness of her acquaintance.
+                   Vivit post funera virtus.
+
+The next is an elaborate and splendid monument, erected by the
+country to the memory of Ralph Lord Lavington; and however
+peculiar the taste which dictated the design, the execution, at
+least, possesses merit. The top figure represents his lordship in
+a sitting posture, habited in the old court dress, and his plumed
+hat lying at his feet. The inscription is traced upon a light
+grey marble, hollowed out so as to allow of the insertion of a
+small sarcophagus, bearing his coat of arms, with a
+beautifully-executed branch of oak-leaves thrown across it.
+
+Two female figures recline on each side; the one on the left
+hand, representing Astrea with her scales by her side, and the
+hilt of the sword of justice, very minutely and beautifully
+sculptured, protruding from behind the sarcophagus; her
+finely-formed and classic face is up-turned towards the old lord.
+In the other figure we behold the genius of the island, mourning
+for the loss of a favourite governor. She holds in her right hand
+a scroll, upon which is inscribed--"Resolved, that a monument be
+erected to his memory," while with her left hand she shades her
+features as if in deep grief. At the feet of these figures rolls
+the sea, the waves, surmounted with their foam, very well
+executed. This costly monument bears the following inscription:--
+
+                             Sacred
+                        To the memory of
+                  Ralph Payne Lord Lavington,
+                   Of the kingdom of Ireland,
+      One of His Majesty's most honourable Privy Council,
+        Knight of the most honourable Order of the Bath,
+         and Captain-general, and Commander-in-chief of
+                      The Leeward Islands.
+
+Upon the base of the monument is the following brief biographical
+inscription:--
+
+"He was born in the Island of St. Christopher's, of an English
+family, distinguished for its loyalty and public spirit. His
+education he received in England, and it prepared him for the
+distinctions which awaited his return to his native isle, when he
+was elected a member of the House of Assembly, and on its first
+meeting unanimously called to the chair of the House, in which
+high situation he gave an early display of those superior talents
+and eminent qualifications which afterwards secured him the
+confidence of his king, and the esteem of his country. On his
+return to England in 1762, he was elected a member of the House
+of Commons for the borough of Plympton, Devonshire; and from his
+perfect knowledge of colonial affairs, he was appointed in 1771--
+a period of national interest--to be captain-general and
+commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, at which time he was
+also invested with the most honourable Order of the Bath. He
+remained in the exercise of his government until 1774, when he
+returned to England, and was appointed a member of the Board of
+Green Cloth. During the period of his residence in England, he
+sat in five parliaments, and in 1795, his Majesty was graciously
+pleased to raise him to the dignity of a peer in Ireland, by the
+style and title of Baron Lavington of Lavington. In 1799, he was
+sworn one of his Majesty's most honourable Privy Council, and
+again appointed to the chief command of the Leeward Islands, in
+the wise and able administration of which important trust he
+passed his latter years
+
+                 And closed his venerable life.
+                         This nobleman
+             Was revered for his public qualities,
+           As he was beloved for his private virtues.
+He blended the dignity of his high office with the affability of
+his     disposition and the gracefulness of his manners,
+And at once commanded the respect, and conciliated the affections
+of all              ranks of people
+              Within the circle of his government
+As a sincere and lasting testimony of their veneration and
+regret,
+                   The Legislature of Antigua
+                   Have erected this monument
+He died at the Government House of this Island, on the 3rd day of
+Aug. 1807, aged 68; and was interred at his own estate, called
+Carlisles."
+
+The whole of this very handsome monument is enclosed in an arch
+of plain black marble. I should have mentioned that the
+ornamental parts of this tomb are all in pure _white_ marble.
+
+The remaining monument is erected to the memory of Mrs. Musgrave,
+who was unfortunately thrown out of her carriage (the horse
+becoming restive and breaking the shafts) and killed upon the
+spot. This unhappy catastrophe occurred in one of the streets of
+St. John's, and a representation of the event, absurd as it may
+seem, is sculptured upon the monument (which is of white marble)
+in basso-relievo. In the background is the animal, apparently of
+the cart-horse breed, scampering away with the broken shafts and
+traces hanging around him; in the foreground, is the figure of a
+man, kneeling and supporting in his arms a female, whose listless
+posture portrays the dire event. The face of the female is well
+executed, the features expressing acute suffering, while they
+tell the hand of death is upon them; but the figure is execrable
+in its proportions, the hand and arm being quite as large as the
+leg and foot of the man, if not larger. The inscription is as
+follows:--
+
+             "No warning given! unceremonious fate!
+            A sudden rush from life's meridian joys!
+               A wrench from all she loved."[74]
+                      Sacred to the memory
+                               of
+                        Eliza Musgrave,
+                Wife of William Musgrave, Esq.,
+             Of the Inner Temple, barrister-at-law.
+                     She departed this life
+             On the morning of the 12th Feb., 1815,
+                         Aged 24 years,
+           Beloved and lamented by all who knew her.
+                    Her God she reverenced;
+      Towards her neighbours she never wilfully offended;
+               To her husband she was everything
+          His fondest wishes could picture or embrace.
+                He idolized her while she lived,
+             And his respect for her exalted worth
+                   Survives beyond the grave.
+              The remembrance of her many virtues
+                  Remains indelibly inscribed
+                     In his dejected bosom.
+
+   "Friends, our chief treasure, how they drop!
+    How the world falls to pieces round about us!
+    And leaves us in the ruin of our joy!
+    What says this transportation of my friends?
+    It bids me love the place where now they dwell,
+    And scorn this wretched spot it leaves so poor."[75]
+
+The aisles of the church are paved with a coarse species of
+marble, laid down in alternate diamonds of black and white. The
+chancel is raised by two steps, and has a stone pavement. The
+body of the church contains 152 pews, but with the assistance of
+the galleries, of which there are three, affords about 1800
+sittings. The governor's pew is very neatly fitted up with
+crimson damask, and contains some gaily coloured ottomans; over
+the pew are the royal arms of England. Service is performed in
+the church on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays; and our exemplary
+rector, with true Christian indefatigability, administers the
+sacrament monthly, at eight in the morning, and after the usual
+morning service.
+
+The organ with which the church is furnished, was erected (partly
+by subscription) in 1760, at the cost of 450l. sterling, the
+vestry making up what was wanting. It is still a very fine
+instrument, and our talented and respected organist, G. Hart,
+Esq., fully recompenses us for any defects it may labour under by
+his inimitable execution.[76]
+
+At the west end of the nave rises a plain quadrangular tower,
+surmounted by an octagonal cupola. The elevation to the apex of
+the cupola is sixty-five feet; the altitude of the tower itself
+is fifty feet. This tower was not erected until 1789, some years
+after the parent church, but from being constructed of the same
+materials, presents a uniform appearance; the cupola is built of
+wood, the perpendicular compartments being _jalousied_. John
+Delap Halliday, Esq. gave 500l. towards its erection.[77]
+
+Within these last few months, two windows have been pierced at
+the east side of the tower, in the small chamber where the works
+of the clock are placed. These were made at the suggestion of Mr.
+Jones, the keeper of the clock, and which prove very beneficial
+to him when inspecting and cleaning that necessary appurtenance.
+Before that period this chamber was perfectly dark, which not
+only rendered the air within it extremely damp, but presented an
+obstacle to the due regulation of the instrument contained in it;
+for candles are but a sorry substitute for the clear light of day
+when employed in such delicate business as rectifying the
+machinery of a horologe. Under the care of Mr. Jones the works
+are kept beautifully clean, which of course will produce a good
+effect. This instrument was the gift of John Delap Halliday, (as
+may be seen by the inscription upon the works,) of Antigua, and
+the maker of it Charles Penton, London, 1788. The windows are
+glazed, and present exactly the same appearance as those to be
+found in the suburban dwelling-houses around that mighty
+metropolis, London.
+
+The tower contains two bells; the tenor one inscribed--"Edmund
+Powell, Golden Grove, 1684," and was kept for the use of the
+coloured classes in other days. The large bell was presented to
+the church by John Delap, (before he assumed the name of
+Halliday,) Esq., 1788. It bore the following inscription:--"The
+gift of John Delap, Esq. The Rev. James Lindsey, rector; Thomas
+Hanson Halloran, and Daniel Hill, churchwardens. Charles Penton,
+London, fecit. John Warner, founder, of London, 1788." It was
+taken down the 11th of February, 1840, on account of a serious
+injury beyond repair, shipped for London on board the "Antigua
+Packet," and exchanged for a new one of the same size, which now
+serves to call the people to church, and to speak the demise of
+the inhabitants; but it is silent at a wedding, for in this
+country no merry peal of bells announces that event which
+elsewhere is ever the signal for joy and festivity.
+
+Having attempted the description of the church, I will now
+proceed to mention the churchyard, which lies upon a gentle
+slope, and contains numerous tombs, with their iron or wooden
+railings. The most beautiful tomb in the ground was erected to
+the memory of the Honourable Otto Baijer, by his widow, who
+afterwards died on her passage to England in 1726. Her remains
+were brought back to Antigua, and now repose by the side of her
+loved husband. It is of pure white marble, although stained by
+exposure to the weather, and is elegantly ornamented with various
+fruits and flowers in basso-relievo.
+
+The oldest sepulchral monuments, of which I could make out the
+inscriptions, are to the memory of Troughton, 1704; Col. Philip
+Lee. 1704;[78] Capt. Bastien Baijer, 1715; Thos. Oasterman, Esq.,
+1724; Frederic Cope, 1739; and Mrs. Warner, the wife of Ashton
+Warner, Esq., 1748.
+
+The inscription upon the tomb of Frederic Cope demands, however,
+further mention. It is an acrostic; the _poetry_ I leave to the
+judgment of my readers.
+
+                        THE INSCRIPTION.
+
+   "F ar removed from every human eye he is,
+    R egardless now of earth, partakes of heaven's bliss;
+    E xalted was his lively soul whilst here below,
+    D elighted ever tender friendships for to show;
+    E asy and cheerful through every scene of Life;
+    R eady to forgive all; but unto me, his wife,
+    I ndulgent to the last degree, for ever kind--
+    C alm was his spirit, virtuous was his mind.
+
+    C areful he ever was to take no bribe in Law;
+    O h! full, full well the abject hate of mortals saw.
+    P artial he never was, just to each man's fame,
+    E ach initial letter will now declare his name."
+
+He was born in London, of honest parents, on the 21st day of May,
+1711, and died, in Antigua, on the 8th ------, 1739.
+
+A fine large marble tomb, to the memory of the Honourable Ashton
+Warner, who died 11th of February, 1762, stands near to this very
+original sepulchral acrostic; and at no great distance a single
+stone to the memory of some admiral (the inscription obliterated)
+with its anchors and flags, and escutcheons.
+
+On the east side of the north vestibule stands the tomb of
+Major-general George W. Ramsey, governor-in-chief of Antigua,
+Monserrat, and Barbados, in 1816, who departed this life,
+November 1st, 1819, in the 58th year of his age. The iron railing
+has become rusted and bent,[79] and the tomb bears many a
+blackened mark.
+
+Near to the last resting-place of governor Ramsey, stands another
+very handsome tomb of white marble, erected to that well-known
+and eccentric character, Patrick Kirwan. He was a native of
+Galway, and as true an Irishman as ever handled a shillelah, or
+vowed devotion to "the shamrock so green." Mr. Kirwan resided in
+Antigua for many years, as a planter and proprietor of estates,
+where his "bulls and blunders" are still remembered and repeated
+with delight. Upon one occasion he sent for a sun-dial from
+England, which he intended to have erected near his dwelling; but
+upon its arrival, it looked so smart with its golden rays and
+gnomen, that "Pat" pronounced it the very height of profanation
+to have such a pretty "cratur" exposed to the relentless shafts
+of master Sol; and so to preserve its beauty, and keep all
+secure, he had a tight snug shed built over it, which eventually
+forbid the entrance of any straggling sunbeam which might feel
+inclined to call upon it, to learn the hour. Poor Mr. Kirwan! his
+Irish blood was always leading him to commit blunders, which were
+sure to raise a laugh at his expense. During a partial rebellion
+of the negroes, at a period when he was manager of an estate, a
+few miles from the capital, he one morning presented himself
+before the proprietor with a very flushed face, and excited mien
+--"Good morning, Mr. Kirwan," said his employer. "What brings you
+to town so suddenly--you look alarmed, I hope nothing is the
+matter?" "Faith, an there is though!" retorted the Irishman, "and
+if the blessed St. Patrick himself had been here, he would have
+looked alarmed too. Why, there's a perfect _resurrection_ of the
+negroes upon your estate!" "A what?" inquired the surprised
+proprietor. "A perfect _resurrection_," repeated Pat, "and I have
+come to ask you what I must do?" His employer could scarcely
+repress a smile at this strange intelligence. At length, however,
+he summoned gravity enough to reply, "If that's the case, Mr.
+Kirwan, the best advice I can give you is, to put a _hoe_ into
+their hands as fast as they rise, and set them to work
+immediately."
+
+But with all his "_bulls and blunders_," Mr. Kirwan was
+deservedly respected, and his death universally regretted. He
+died in 1819, in the 66th year of his age. The inscription upon
+his monument informs us "By his direction this tomb was erected."
+
+At the entrance of the east gate is a mural stone monument,
+erected to the memory of James Cullen, by his brother Robert
+Cullen. This monument is pointed out to strangers on account of
+the peculiarity of its form, with the assertion that the person
+who built the church is buried there, and that the coffin is
+obliged to stand in a perpendicular position. This, however, is
+not correct; the monument certainly stands there, but the place
+where the body is entombed is 23 feet further to the west; and
+instead of being raised to the memory of the architect of the
+church, that individual erected it to perpetuate the memory of
+his brother. This fact is engraven upon the monument; but so
+unexploring are the Antiguans in general, that I think but few of
+the inhabitants are aware of the real truth, but still think the
+coffin stands upright.
+
+This strange practice of putting up the grave-stone at a distance
+from the grave is not the only instance of the kind to be met in
+the churchyard of St. John's. At one of the west gates lies a
+stone slab, to the memory of the late organist; and upon reading
+the inscription, I supposed that the body reposed beneath. But
+not so: that lies far away, with "not a stone to mark the place."
+Upon asking a pew-opener the reason for placing the slab in that
+situation, his reply was, "It does so nicely, you know, for the
+people to walk on, and looks well."
+
+The churchyard is entered by five iron gates, of handsome
+patterns. At the north, a flight of stone steps leads up to the
+church, while from the south gate, the building is approached by
+an easy and gradual ascent, paved with brick. The pillars of the
+south gate are surmounted by stone figures, representing St. John
+the Baptist, and St. John the Evangelist. These figures were
+intended to receive the vows of the good catholics at Dominica;
+but as it happened to be war time, when they took their departure
+from "_la belle France_," on their passage they fell in with an
+English man-of-war, who most unceremoniously took them into
+keeping, and brought them to Antigua; where, by universal
+consent, they were placed as sentinels in their present position,
+instead of being decked out in gold and silver leaf, and mock
+jewels. The negroes, however, refuse to recognise them by their
+own titles, but have unanimously dubbed them "Adam and Eve"--the
+Baptist, I suppose, playing the part of the lady, as his garments
+are longer and more voluminous than those of his companion.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[71] See Chapter XX.
+
+[72] A descendant of Sir Thomas Warner, who planted the first
+English colony in Antigua.
+
+[73] This strangely-worded inscription is copied verbatim.
+
+[74] Slightly altered from Young's "Night Thoughts."
+
+[75] Young's "Night Thoughts," Night 7th.
+
+[76] To the organ is attached a choir, composed of the boys and
+girls from the parochial school.
+
+[77] From this John Delap Halliday descends the present Admiral
+Tollemache--viz.--
+
+Lionel Tollemache, 3rd Earl of Dysert, born June, 1708; married
+Grace, eldest daughter of John Earl of Granville, by whom he had
+(among other issue) a daughter, Jane, married, 1770, John Delap
+Halliday, of the Leasowes, county of Salop, and of Antigua, Esq.,
+by whom she had issue, I. John Halliday, Admiral R.N., and who
+has assumed the name of Tollemache, and who married Elizabeth,
+second daughter of John, 3rd Earl of Aldborough, by whom he has,
+among other children, Elizabeth, the present Countess of
+Cardigan; and II. Charlotte, married Henry, fourth son of 6th Sir
+William Wolseley, of Wolseley, county Stafford.
+
+[78] The gentleman who presented the pair of silver candlesticks
+for the communion table. He was an Irishman by birth and
+education; but after having served in the wars in Flanders, he
+emigrated to Antigua, and became Speaker of the House of Assembly
+in that island in 1702.
+
+[79] It is said to have been done by lightning.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XX.
+
+
+
+  Court-house--Bazaar--Arsenal--Police-office--Government-house--
+  Barracks--House of correction--Gaol--Methodist chapel--
+  Methodism, its rise and progress in Antigua--Moravian chapel--
+  Rise and progress of the Society of United Brethren--Scotch
+  kirk.
+
+After the church and churchyard of St. John's, the next public
+building which calls for attention is the court house. This, as
+before stated, was erected in 1747, William Lowry being the
+mason, and Duncan Grant the carpenter. Who these worthies were I
+know not; but a glance at the court house proves they were
+efficient workmen. In order to raise funds to defray the expenses
+of its erection, the legislature obtained a loan of 746l. 12s.
+4�d. currency, from the executors of Samuel and Thomas Watkins;
+and Jonas Langford (a proprietor of Antigua, and whose estates
+still go by his name) lent 1253l. 7s. 7�d. currency, which debts
+were to be paid off by levying a tax of 2s. 6d. per head upon all
+slaves in the island for six years.
+
+The place where it stands was originally the market; but that
+site being the one most approved of for the erection of a public
+building, the market was removed to a street nearly facing it,
+where it has since been held.
+
+The court house is a very noble-looking pile for a West India
+colony, and indeed would not disgrace the boasted streets of
+London. The plan of the structure is very uniform and neat. It is
+built of a fine-grained freestone, the produce of some of the
+small islands already described, which was furnished by contract
+for the purpose by Mr. Robert Bannister, a former planter of
+Antigua.
+
+The principal entrance (to the south) is approached by iron
+gates; and after crossing a small court-yard paved with large
+flag-stones, you enter a small corridor, supported by circular
+stone columns, with plain capitals. At each end of this corridor,
+a flight of stairs leads to the upper apartments in the east and
+west wings, the one appropriated to the use of his excellency the
+governor, when he retires for the purpose of preparing his
+speech; the other to the clerk of the assembly; below are the
+marshal's office, and the office of the colonial secretary.
+
+The ground-floor of the main building comprises one large room,
+extending the whole length and breadth of the edifice. The east
+end being fitted up for the sittings of all courts of justice,
+has its bench for the judges, covered with crimson, and a chair
+for the governor (when present), over which are the national
+arms, where the "lion" grins with approved ferocity, and the
+"unicorn" shews its golden hoofs. Around a huge circular table,
+which might have feasted "king Arthur" and his gallant "knights,"
+even better than the stone one which is shewn as having answered
+for that purpose, are placed the sittings for the barristers,
+attorney-general, solicitor-general, and benches for the grand
+and petty juries. Exactly opposite the seat of the
+solicitor-general, a ready pen has scrawled upon the table a
+striking likeness of "his satanic majesty." I hope his aid was
+not necessary in that part of Astrea's court, at the time his
+lineaments were portrayed! This part of the interior is enclosed
+within a semi-circular mahogany railing. At the lower or west end
+of the apartment are congregated all the _canaille_--the very
+riff-raff of the town--who flock to hear speeches they understand
+as much as a Greek syllogism; the respectable spectators are
+admitted within the enclosure. The barristers plead in gowns, but
+not in wigs, very much to their comfort I should apprehend, in
+this warm climate.
+
+The upper floor of the court house is divided into two apartments
+by wooden partitions, leaving a lobby between; but these can be
+removed at pleasure, making the whole one room, as on the
+ground-floor. The east apartment is appropriated to the governor
+and council, when sitting; at other times for the use of the
+grand jury, or petty juries in criminal causes. A long table
+covered with "green cloth" runs across the room, and around which
+are placed very handsome chairs, of unique patterns, (oak, with
+cane backs, and green morocco seats and elbows,) the one destined
+for the use of the governor being of larger dimensions, and
+having the arms of England painted upon it.
+
+The west room is used for the meeting of the house of assembly,
+and is furnished in the same manner as the other apartment, only
+that under the royal arms (which are attached to the north side
+of the room) is a kind of rostrum, furnished with its proper
+seat, and intended for the accommodation of the speaker of the
+house of assembly.
+
+On returning by the west flight of stairs, my eyes were directed
+to a padlock in the wall, which formerly secured the ladder made
+use of at executions; but happy am I to say, such scenes are now
+of very rare occurrence in this island.
+
+I should have observed, that balls and dinners are sometimes held
+at the court house; as well as Bible and missionary meetings; and
+also fancy sales for charitable purposes. The last fancy fair, or
+rather bazaar, held there by the Church-of-England Association,
+was a very crowded affair. It took place on the day after
+Christmas-day, a day of all others devoted by the Antiguans to a
+display of dress. Not only all kinds of fancy and ornamental
+articles, fabricated by the fair hands of the Antiguan ladies
+were to be found there, but what pleased some part of the company
+much better, a well-filled lunch-table was spread, when pullets
+and guinea-birds, turkeys and ham, were joined to a whole army of
+tarts and puffs, fruits and confections. It was a motley group
+that frequented the court house that day: Iris would have found
+herself outvied in colours, and Fancy might have taken a new
+lesson. In one part of the room might be seen a member of the
+council, with his lady hanging upon his arm, and next to him a
+black labourer _with his lady_, in the same position; the latter
+couple making, in many instances, a far greater show than their
+aristocratic neighbours.[80] The military band was stationed in
+the lower apartment, and played during the day the most
+fashionable and favourite airs. The profits arising from this
+sale were appropriated to the purposes of assisting to defray the
+expenses of the new public cistern lately erected.
+
+Opposite the north side of the court house is the arsenal,
+erected in 1757 or 1758. It is, as might be supposed, a strong
+building, and stands in a court yard, enclosed with iron
+railings. To the east of the arsenal is the old guard-house,
+erected in 1754, during the administration of Sir George Thomas.
+It is a plain building, with two projecting wings; but it is now
+very much out of repair, not being used for any purpose.
+Adjoining the guard-house is a long stone building, with its
+grated windows, formerly used as the gaol of the island, but
+within these last few years turned into the police office,--the
+goal being removed to the suburbs of St. John's. This is a very
+great improvement; for this building, standing in one of the
+greatest thoroughfares of this populous town, and directly facing
+the market, the culprits who were immured for petty crimes, and
+kept in that part of the gaol, could look through their grated
+windows, hold converse with the passers-by, and thus disseminate
+their evil counsels among the idle and profligate of both sexes,
+who were always lounging about that spot. The dungeons where the
+felons used to be confined were gloomy dens indeed, and ran along
+the outer walls of the prison. One of these dungeons has been
+lately made into an engine-house, a door being broken through its
+massy walls facing the street. Upon passing this vault during its
+transformation, a sigh broke from my lips as memory carried me
+back to those fearful days when so many miserable creatures, who
+bore the name without the freedom of man, used to inhabit them,
+and often, it is said, from very trivial causes. Like Sterne, I
+fancied I could behold them in all their misery,--their bodies,
+perhaps, wasted with disease,--their eyes blood-shot and wild
+with despair,--their features sharpened by anguish of mind:--no
+one to soothe their grief,--no one to hear their complaint,--and
+without the _hope_, but not perhaps without the _fear_, of an
+hereafter, they left those cheerless vaults to be launched into
+eternity by the hangman's hands! The picture was too dreadful;
+but sounds of laughter and gladness were abroad, our carriage
+rolled on amid crowds of blacks of every sex and age; and
+although at times I suffer, as many others do, from their
+impudence of manners and behaviour, yet I felt in my heart a
+pleasure at their being _free_. The present building was erected
+in 1772, the former gaol having been burnt to the ground in the
+great fire of 1769.
+
+The next edifice worthy of notice is government house. It is
+situated in a pleasant and open space in the suburbs, and
+embraces a wide extent of prospect, while from its open windows
+as pure a breeze may be inhaled as attainable from any dwelling
+in the capital. Although possessing nothing very grand in its
+exterior, or internal arrangements, no marble pillars or lofty
+arches, yet it is a pleasant, genteel West Indian residence,
+possessing some good apartments, and having its stabling and
+other out-buildings upon a respectable scale. During the period
+his excellency is residing in the capital, the "Union Jack"
+floats from the top of the flag-staff, opposite government house;
+and then all loyal subjects pay their respects to their young and
+beautiful queen's representative.
+
+The custom house, as has already been mentioned, was destroyed in
+the fire of 1841. It was a very respectable edifice, and well
+suited to the purpose. The building now used in its stead is
+hired at the annual rent of 100l. sterling. The treasurer's and
+registrar's offices are also private property, for which a
+moderate rent is given.[81]
+
+From the custom house, I proceed to mention the barracks, very
+delightfully situated in a kind of open heath, to the east of the
+town. These consisted of two distinct buildings a few paces from
+each other; but the north wing of the lower one becoming
+dismantled and ruinous, it was resolved in 1831 to repair it, and
+appropriate it to the use of a gaol, instead of the building
+already described in the vicinity of the court house.
+
+In this gaol, far greater attention is paid to the unfortunate
+inmates than was formerly the case. The prisoners are furnished
+with two wholesome and sufficient meals a day, but no clothing or
+bedding is allowed, unless by order of the medical man attending
+them. The females are separated from the men, and the debtors
+from the felons; although in former years they all used to herd
+together.
+
+Since the year 1829, the Rev. Robert Holberton, the excellent
+rector of St. John's, has voluntarily visited the prison every
+Sunday between the hours of seven and eight a.m., to read
+prayers, and deliver a religious discourse to the inmates; and in
+all cases where an unhappy being has so outraged the laws of
+humanity and justice as to forfeit his life to pay the penalty of
+his crimes, that divine has ever stepped in with his message of
+mercy, prayed with them, and sought to soften their stony hearts;
+to lead them to that only fountain capable of washing away their
+deadly sins, and finally accompanied them to the last sad scene
+of their mortal career.
+
+One part of the gaol is converted into a house of correction, and
+the prisoners confined there are employed in breaking stones, or,
+under the surveillance of an officer, in working in the roads, or
+assisting in any other public works. A treadmill was sent for
+from England some time ago, but after costing the country a large
+sum, strange to say, no use is made of it. A shed is built over
+it, and there it remains quietly in the gaol-yard, and is likely
+to do so to the end of its existence. The reason for not using
+this machine, however, is said to be on account of the power
+required to work it, which necessarily calls for the exertions of
+a large gang; and although the house of correction is generally
+crowded with occupants, yet there has seldom been a sufficient
+number of culprits at one time condemned to that peculiar
+punishment, to set the treadmill going.
+
+The north end of the building is appropriated to the use of the
+officers of her majesty's troops, stationed for the time in the
+island; and notwithstanding its near proximity to a prison, must,
+I should think, be a very pleasant domicile. The privates are
+quartered at the other barracks, further to the east; and beneath
+the shade of a large tree growing near, their red-faced wives may
+be seen busily employed in washing their habiliments, while their
+sun-burnt children scramble about and chase the butterflies, who,
+gorgeous in colours, sport about the margin of a neighbouring
+pond.
+
+The next building to be mentioned is, the new Ebenezer Chapel,
+belonging to the Methodist society. The corner-stone of this
+edifice was laid by the Honourable Nicholas Nugent (then speaker
+of the house of assembly, but who now resides in England as the
+colonial agent) in 1837. A religious service was first held in
+the old chapel, and then, forming into a procession, consisting
+of ministers of the different sects in Antigua, some of the
+aristocrats of the island, the leading members of the Methodists,
+and the scholars of their Sunday-schools, they marched to the
+spot appointed for the erection of their new place of worship. A
+bottle containing the customary inscription was placed in the
+cavity the stone lowered to its proper situation, the three blows
+of the mallet struck, addresses delivered, and the ceremony was
+over.
+
+It is a spacious building, the front being constructed of
+free-stone, the gift of the Honourable and Rev. Nathaniel
+Gilbert. It is pierced with two tiers of windows; the upper ones
+arched and of larger size than the lower tier, which are very
+disproportioned to the extent of the edifice--a circumstance
+which tends to render it warmer than it otherwise would be. The
+ground-floor is appropriated to the use of the infant and Sunday
+schools, as also their "tea-parties," held for charitable
+purposes; above is the chapel, which is approached by an outward
+flight of stone steps. The interior is fitted up in the usual
+plain style; but boasts a smart display of blue and white paint.
+
+The pulpit, painted to represent oak, is an irregular octagon,
+supported by four fluted columns, and covered with purple
+drapery, bordered with yellow fringe, instead of gold; below is
+the reading desk. The pulpit is so lofty, which renders it
+inconvenient for such of the congregation as occupy the body of
+the chapel to follow the movements of the officiating minister.
+The galleries run round all sides, and are supported by plain
+cast-iron pillars, bearing each its neat-looking lamp. The last
+gallery is exclusively appropriated to the use of the children of
+the Females' Friend Society and the Sunday-school scholars; and
+here, also, is placed the seraphine belonging to the chapel,
+which serves to lead the vocal part of the service. Altogether,
+the chapel is an excellent building, superior to anything of the
+kind I have seen in the West Indies, and makes a good and
+commanding outward appearance, particularly when lighted up of an
+evening; but to my eye it looks more like reading rooms, or a
+philosophical institution, than a place of worship.
+
+Methodism was first established in Antigua in 1760, by the
+Honourable Nathaniel Gilbert, speaker of the house of assembly.
+In 1758, Mr. Gilbert visited England, carrying with him some of
+his negro servants; and during his stay there, he formed an
+acquaintance with the Rev. John Wesley, the venerable founder of
+Methodism, who baptized two of the negroes. Upon Mr. Gilbert's
+return to Antigua, he signified to those individuals who resided
+near him, that he should feel happy in meeting them at his house
+on certain evenings, when he would expound the word of God to
+them, and endeavour to enlighten their minds upon religious
+subjects. This invitation was eagerly accepted by many of the
+negroes and coloured people, and Mr. Gilbert was led to increase
+his views, and form a regular organized society, which in a short
+time amounted to two hundred members.
+
+This proceeding of Mr. Gilbert produced the greatest astonishment
+among the inhabitants of Antigua. A man in his rank of life to
+herd with negro slaves, and their coloured offspring, who,
+although perhaps they might be free, bore about with them the
+marks of their despised race!--oh! wondrous! incomprehensible!--
+the man must be mad, thought they. But when he, unmindful of
+their censure, proceeded in his acts of love towards these poor
+outcasts from the pale of society, their wonder knew no bounds;
+their feelings took another turn, and what at first was surprise,
+gave way to reproach and contempt. Mr. Gilbert, however, was not
+to be moved by what mankind said of him; he knew the consequence
+before he commenced his labours; and reckless of scorn or
+reprehension, he steadily pursued the path he had chalked out,
+knowing full well in whom he trusted. Thus he proceeded, until
+death called him from this world, and summoned him to reap his
+reward in heaven; when, strong in faith, he left his infant
+society without a shepherd to watch over its welfare.
+
+Mr. Gilbert derived his origin from a family of considerable
+distinction in the west of England, where one of its members--Sir
+Humphrey Gilbert--associating himself with his kinsman, the
+celebrated Sir Walter Raleigh, became one of the most eminent
+circumnavigators of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Dying, he left
+a son, Raleigh Gilbert, Esq., who, among other individuals,
+obtained from King James I. a large grant, in what was then
+termed Plymouth--the foundation of the afterwards glorious colony
+of Virginia, in North America--and where, in 1606, he emigrated,
+along with the Lord Chief Justice Popham; George Popham, Esq.
+(his son); William Parker, Esq.; and Thomas Stanham, Esq. Soon
+after this period, we find Raleigh Gilbert, under the title of
+Captain Gilbert, in command of a vessel manned with 100 men, and
+provided with ordnance, stores, and provisions, sufficient for
+the establishment of a plantation, which he (in conjunction with
+Captain Popham, a joint patentee, and in command of another
+vessel, similarly provided) began on the banks of the river
+"Sagadock," in the year 1608, and where they erected a fort,
+called Sir George's. Captain Popham, his zealous coadjutor,
+having died in this place, Captain Gilbert returned to England,
+where he took possession of an estate, fallen to him by the death
+of his elder brother, Sir John Gilbert, President of the
+Virginian Company. Another member of this family, we find, about
+the same time, leader of an abortive expedition to form a
+settlement upon the shores of the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia,
+and who, it appears, was well acquainted with those several
+islands which now form the Leeward Caribbee government. The
+following extract is taken from a work published in 1741 (second
+edition):--
+
+"In the same year, Captain Gilbert, in the 'Elizabeth,' of
+London, made a voyage to Virginia, but not with the like success.
+He traded with the savages in the Charibbe Islands--viz., St
+Lucia, Dominica, Nevis, St Christopher's, &c., and thence
+proceeded to the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia, being the first
+that sailed up it, and landed there. The Indians set upon him and
+his company in the woods, and Captain Gilbert and four or five of
+his men were killed by their arrows, upon which his crew returned
+home."
+
+We cannot undertake to say from which particular member of this
+distinguished family the Gilberts of Antigua sprang, but they
+were among its earliest settlers, and constituted some of the
+greatest ornaments of the colony, in which for so many years they
+have been proprietors. The present  most noble Marquis of
+Northampton, President of the Royal Society, descends, in a
+female line, from this family. His mother, the late marchioness,
+(married, August 18, 1787, to Charles, late Earl and Marquis of
+Northampton, and died, March, 1843,) being the daughter of a Miss
+Gilbert, (daughter of Nathaniel Gilbert, of Gilberts, Antigua,
+Esq., grandfather of the present Honourable and Reverend N.
+Gilbert,) by her husband, Joshua Smith, of East Stoke Park, co.
+of Wilts, Esq.
+
+But to return to Methodism. Unpromising as the state of this
+little society might seem, the good seed already sown was not
+destined to perish. The Great Shepherd cared for it; and when
+least expected, raised another pastor in the person of a Mr. John
+Baxter, a native of England. Mr. Baxter was a man who moved in
+humble life, and who worked in the capacity of shipwright, in
+Chatham Dockyard; but he was justly esteemed by all who knew him,
+a pattern to the society to which he belonged, and a
+highly-respected leader among Mr. Wesley's sect. In 1777, a
+proposal was made him by some of the directors of the Chatham
+Dockyard, to sail for Antigua, and work as foreman of the calkers
+in the naval establishment of that island. To this Mr. Baxter
+assented; but not so his friends: they made use of every argument
+in their power to make him forego his purpose--representing, in
+the most glowing colours, the distance he would be from all he
+loved; the dangers of the ocean, over which he must pass; and the
+difference, perhaps insalubrity, of climate he would have to
+contend with. But all without avail; he felt an unconquerable
+desire to visit that portion of the globe, and accordingly,
+bidding his friends farewell, he left England, and arrived in
+Antigua on the 2nd of April, 1778.
+
+As might be expected, he found the infant Methodist Society in a
+very languishing state. Upon hearing of his arrival, and of his
+being a member of the same sect as their beloved benefactor, the
+little band waited upon him, and after welcoming him to their
+shores, begged him to tell Mr. Wesley he had many children in
+Antigua whom he had never seen, but who were earnestly desirous
+of his aid. On the following Sabbath, Mr. Baxter met them in the
+services of religion, and from that day constituted himself their
+pastor; which office he performed until his death, assembling
+them together on Sundays, and performing the full service, as in
+England, and on the other week-days, after his labours in the
+dockyard were over, visiting the different estates, and teaching
+the poor slaves the road to salvation.
+
+His exertions were greatly blessed; and by the following year,
+1779, six hundred negroes were joined to the congregation. He now
+contemplated the erection of a chapel, and for that purpose
+instituted collections among his people, and adopted every other
+consistent method to acquire funds to carry out his plans.
+
+Mr. Baxter's situation was productive of great discomfort to
+himself; his duties to be performed in the naval-yard were very
+laborious; and after a long day's work, his evenings were spent
+in travelling from plantation to plantation, the harbinger of
+Gospel news. He had no one to assist him in his self-appointed
+task, but for some years laboured on alone. In 1782, he mentions
+in a letter to a friend, "There is no white person in the
+congregation but myself. At St. John's, thirty coloured persons
+receive the Lord's Supper."
+
+Assistance, however, was not so far off as he supposed. About
+this time an Irish family (who were all members of Mr. Wesley's
+sect) were persuaded by an unprincipled captain of a trading
+vessel, to sell all their little property, and emigrate with him
+to America. Deceived by his plausible manners and fair speeches,
+they acquiesced in his proposals; and turning all their goods
+into money, the whole family, consisting of an elderly father and
+mother, a son, and some daughters, embarked on board his vessel,
+and sought with him their better fortune in a far-off land. But
+their false friend having inveigled them into his power, under
+various pretences, robbed them of their little all, and then
+deserted them, in a strange country. After suffering many and
+bitter privations, they found their way to Antigua, where they
+eventually became valuable assistants to Mr. Baxter.
+
+In the meantime, Mr. Baxter's great object, the erection of a
+Methodist chapel in St. John's, was rapidly being accomplished;
+and on the 8th of November, 1783, that worthy man, with an
+overflowing heart, had the happiness of preaching his first
+sermon in it, to a full and serious audience. In the space of the
+three following years, the society increased to 2000 persons.
+
+In 1786, Dr. Coke, the Wesleyan missionary and historian, left
+England, for the purpose of spreading gospel tidings in America.
+Meeting, however, with violent gales, the ship in which he took
+passage was unable to make her destined port; and after
+encountering a series of disasters, as a last and only resort,
+was obliged to put into Antigua, in distress. Dr. Coke was
+delighted to find the Wesleyan society in that island in so
+satisfactory a state--a circumstance he was unprepared for; and
+in his letters to England, expresses in warm terms his pleasure
+upon the subject.
+
+The first conference was held at Antigua, in the year 1787; but
+the annual conferences, or district meetings, were not
+established until 1793, when, on the returns being made, the
+society was found to consist of 6570 members; out of which there
+were 36 white, and 105 coloured persons. Although the Methodist
+society had progressed so far, and embraced so many members, yet
+its proceedings were reviled and insulted by the greater part of
+the white inhabitants. All kinds of petty insults were heaped
+upon its pastors; while their place of worship was made the scene
+of vulgar waggeries and ribald jests. One favourite amusement
+with many of the young men of that period was, to procure a live
+goat, and after hampering its legs, fling it into the midst of
+the assembly, while engaged at their devotion at the Methodist
+chapel. At other times, in order to vary the sport, the goat was
+secured against the chapel door; and as the minister pronounced
+the amen, or the members raised their hymns of praise to God, the
+poor animal was beat and kicked until it joined in chorus with
+its deep and unharmonious cries, which were received with bursts
+of applauding laughter by its foolish captors.
+
+Mr. Baxter, although a very _good_ man, was not, I have
+understood, possessed of very superior talents; and accordingly,
+many of his discourses produced much merriment among that class
+of persons who frequented his chapel for the sake of passing
+criticisms, as well as killing time. He had a favourite servant
+living with him, whose name was John Bott, and who attended to
+the lighting up of the chapel, as well as performing his home
+duties. Upon one occasion, John neglected to snuff the candles;
+an omission which caused his master so much uneasiness, that,
+after endeavouring in vain to read the portion of Scripture
+selected, he was fain to interrupt himself in the midst of a
+passage--"And Nathan said unto David--John Bott, snuff the
+candles!" This intervention, as may be supposed, caused a tumult
+of laughter; nor (said an ear-witness) could his own people
+restrain their risible faculties. But to return. About 1793, Dr.
+Coke paid Antigua another visit, and preached upon many
+plantations; one of which was Sir George Thomas's, at North
+Sound. The old chapel at Parham was erected in 1802; the returns
+of the society made that year were, 4000 persons.
+
+The year 1805 was marked by the Methodists as that in which their
+friend and pastor, Mr. John Baxter, closed his mortal career,
+after a well-spent life--twenty-seven years of which he passed in
+Antigua.[82] He died November the 13th, 1805, and was interred in
+the churchyard of St. John's; but if any stone marked the place
+of burial, time has obliterated the inscription, or else
+shattered the tomb. The visitor may look in vain for such a
+memento. It appears strange to me, that the Wesleyans of Antigua
+have never erected monuments to the memories of Mr. Gilbert and
+Mr. Baxter. I am sure there are members enough to do this; and it
+would be but paying a proper tribute of respect to the memories
+of those excellent men, and founders of that sect in this island.
+Perhaps, they may take the hint, and allow the walls of their
+handsome chapel to be graced with two neat marble tablets devoted
+to that purpose.
+
+But to proceed. Since Mr. Baxter's death, the Wesleyan society
+has been rapidly progressing, not only in Antigua, but in all the
+other West India Islands, although Antigua is still looked upon
+as the parent church; and in 1842, the society in that island
+consisted of about 2700 members. Beside the chapel in St. John's,
+they have places of worship at Parham, English Harbour,
+Willoughby Bay, and elsewhere.
+
+Thus, from a small beginning--from a few black slaves gathered
+together by night beneath the roof of a white man--this society
+has spread far and wide, like some huge wave, until now it boasts
+a vast increase of number, of every variety of shade, from the
+ruddy son of Britain, down to the jetty offspring of Afric's
+soil. Great success has attended the preaching of this sect; and
+although an episcopalian myself, and consequently more attached
+to that form of worship, I cannot let the opportunity pass me
+without offering my mite of praise to the character of their
+undaunted and fervent ministers, tendering my hearty wishes for
+their further progress, and, at the same time, expressing my firm
+belief that they have, through God, been the means of preventing
+much crime, and saving many, very many, from the fearful
+retribution, the inevitable attendant on a misspent life.
+
+From this view of the Methodist Chapel and Methodism, I proceed
+to mention the Moravian settlement. The Moravians, or rather,
+"United Brethren," as many of my readers may be aware, revived
+under the celebrated Count Zinzendorf, a native of Germany, who,
+with some of his followers, visited England in the reign of
+George II., and formed several settlements of their sect in
+different parts of that kingdom. They also established colonies
+in Greenland, Labrador, and other parts of North America, and in
+South America.
+
+In 1731, Count Zinzendorf visited Denmark, for the purpose of
+attending the coronation of Christian VI., who, by the death of
+his father, was called to the throne of that kingdom. During his
+residence at that court, some of his domestics became acquainted
+with a negro, named Anthony, from one of the Danish islands. This
+man related many instances of the moral darkness in which the
+West Indies were enveloped, and of the distressed state of the
+negroes; which being repeated to the count, he felt an invincible
+desire to send missionaries to that part of the world, to
+proclaim the "tidings of great joy" to those poor benighted
+negroes.
+
+In 1732, this desire was carried into effect; and two
+missionaries were despatched from "Herrnhutt," (the principal
+Moravian station, in Lusatia, Germany,) to St. Thomas. Other
+missionaries followed them; and in 1733, they planted their
+standard in St. Croix. In 1754, the society in London sent
+missionaries to Jamaica, who were followed by some of the
+brethren from America; and in 1756, Samuel Isles, a true and
+exemplary Christian, came from St. Thomas, where he had been
+residing as missionary for eight years, and established the first
+Moravian settlement in Antigua.
+
+Their labour of love was at first very slow in its progress; but
+they succeeded, in 1761, in raising a chapel, for the
+accommodation of the negroes, on a spot of land, purchased for
+the purpose, in St. John's. Still their society rather decreased
+than flourished, until, about 1768, there were only fourteen
+members in the church at St. John's. Disheartening as these
+circumstances were, like true soldiers of the Cross, they would
+not lay down their arms; and at length, their faith and patience
+met with their reward. A wonderful revival took place, and in
+1775 "the number of their stated hearers amounted to 2000; and
+never a month elapsed without an addition to the church of ten or
+twenty by baptism."
+
+By the year 1787, 5465 negroes were admitted into the church.
+Their first settlement was situated at St. John's; but in 1782,
+they had formed another at Grace Hill, or, as it was first
+termed, Bailey Hill; a delightful spot, about ten miles from the
+capital. The number baptized at St. John's, in 1789, was 507;
+while at Grace Hill, 217 were admitted into the church by that
+ceremony. By this time, five preachers were settled in Antigua;
+and in the course of the two following years, the society
+enrolled 7400 members. At the present period, 1842, the number
+may be estimated at 11,000.
+
+Their settlement at St. John's is situated in Spring Gardens, at
+the extreme north end of the town, and looks the very picture of
+neatness and domestic comfort. The present chapel, erected in
+1773, is a plain building--devoid of any great architectural
+beauty, it is true, but interesting from its very simplicity, and
+from being built by the negroes in times of slavery. The rapid
+increase of their numbers, already mentioned, rendered it
+necessary to provide a larger place of worship; which fact being
+mentioned to their negro converts, they immediately commenced
+procuring some of the materials, by each bringing a few stones
+with them, when they came to their evening meetings in the week.
+Those of them who were masons and carpenters worked with the
+greatest energy "in their free hours, after their daily tasks
+were done; and those who could not assist in the labour provided
+victuals for the workmen." Since that period, the chapel has had
+many enlargements and alterations made to it. The dwellings of
+the preachers are gathered around it; and their neat,
+cheerful-looking burying-ground, in which grows many a beautiful
+tree, bounds the settlement to the east. Everything about them
+looks green, and fresh, and lovely; and their wives, in their
+neat caps, and Quaker-like style of dress, and the often very
+pretty, but quiet contour of their features, appear in perfect
+harmony with the other parts of the picture. I must say, I like
+the Moravians: they seem to have so much open-heartedness about
+them--such patriarchal simplicity of manners. Among themselves
+they are ever kind and courteous, forming, as it were, one large
+family of affectionate brothers and sisters. They have done much
+good among the black race, for whose welfare the mission was
+particularly intended; and many happy deaths among them attest
+the truth. Besides their settlement in St. John's, they have
+several in other parts of the island; namely, at Grace Hill,
+Grace Bay, Newfield, Cedar Hall, Lebanon, Gracefield, and Five
+Islands.
+
+Among their ministers, men of learning and talent may be found.
+Their superintendent, the Rev. Mr. H------, is a great biblical
+scholar, possessed of superior faculties, and a good nervous
+preacher; but some of their missionaries, although far from
+deficient in erudition, from being natives of Germany, and not
+thoroughly acquainted with the English language, are almost
+unintelligible to English ears. I cannot say I admire the singing
+part of their service; at a given signal they all seem to dart
+off at the highest pitch of their voices, and keep on without
+regard to time or melody. However, I understand they have also a
+seraphine for the use of their chapel, which may tend to modulate
+the discordant voices of their congregation.[83] I hope these
+last few remarks may not be understood as unkind or sarcastic.
+Far be it from me to scoff at _any sect_. True it is I note their
+peculiarities; but if founded on the conscientious belief of the
+propriety of their own form of worship, I would not raise a laugh
+at the fantastic movements of even the "Jumpers" or the "Shakers"
+by any animadversions of mine.
+
+The last and remaining edifice I have to mention, is the
+half-finished kirk of the Scotchmen. The foundation-stone of this
+place of worship was laid with the usual ceremonies by Sir Wm.
+Colebrooke, the late governor, on the 9th of April, 1839. It is
+situated upon an ascent on the eastern outskirts of the town, and
+from it may be seen many a lovely landscape, which Claude
+Lorraine would not have scorned to imitate. It progresses but
+slowly; but still it has been known for the tortoise to outrun
+the hare, and win the race, and therefore the Scotch kirk may yet
+exceed some of its contemporaries. In its present form I can say
+but little about it, except that the same fault cannot be found
+with it as there has been with the Methodist chapel--the small
+size of the windows--for the Scotch kirk appears to be all
+windows and doors. If, however, the Scotchman will make haste and
+finish the building, I will promise to write all about it; in the
+meantime, as I have already made this chapter of leviathan
+dimensions, I will make my courtesy, and--exit for the night.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[80] This social assemblage of "white" and "black" is one of the
+good effects of emancipation. Some years ago this dark-skinned
+race would have been kept from within the precincts of the walls
+by the point of a bayonet, as it was the custom on similar
+occasions to have a guard.
+
+[81] The dates of papers in most of these offices commence from
+1668, after Antigua was restored by the French, and Lord W.
+Willoughby settled in the government by his majesty Charles the
+Second.
+
+[82] Mr. Baxter gave up his situation in the dock-yard after the
+erection of the chapel in St. John's, and removed to a small
+house erected in the chapel-yard, and continued to fill the
+office of the established minister until his death.
+
+[83] This is a misinformation. There is no seraphine in the
+chapel, but a small but very sweet-toned organ in the
+school-room. Upon a late visit to the chapel, however, I find
+that the congregation is very much improved in their style of
+singing.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XXI.
+
+
+
+  Morning--Institutions--Daily Meal Society--Its rise and
+  progress--Lazaretto--Destitute Females' Friend Society--Its
+  origin and purpose--Friendly societies--Bible Society--
+  Missionary associations--Temperance Society--Juvenile
+  Association--Ladies' Clothing Society &c.--Banks--Library
+  Society.
+
+Another morning is come--a bright glorious morning: the sky is as
+deeply blue as the breast of the kingfisher, except where here
+and there a snowy pyramid of clouds mounts slowly up the heavens.
+Through the open windows of my apartments, a rich flood of
+sunshine pours in, and plays upon the floor in many a fanciful
+chequer. The bright red flowers of the "Scarlet Cordia" hang in
+tasteful branches from among their broad green leaves, and
+attract the attention of the little humming-bird, who, in their
+changeful plumage, flit around, and rob the flowers of their
+liquid sweets. The breeze is as gentle as an infant's sigh, a
+dreamy stillness is abroad, and--but what was that?--rain, I
+declare! A gloom has silently and suddenly overspread the sky;
+the late white-robed clouds have become covered with a darkened
+hue; the wind has raised its pipe; the rain comes pouring down,
+and chases away my feathered favourites. I can write no more of
+bright skies and glowing sunbeams, and therefore I must proceed
+in my task, which the beauty of the morning drove from my
+thoughts; and having already attempted a description of the
+buildings of St. John's, I shall now endeavour to give some
+account of its institutions.
+
+The first to be placed upon the list, not from the number of
+years it has been established, but from its extent, is the Daily
+Meal Society, for information respecting which I am indebted to
+the Rev. Robert Holberton. This society, intended for the purpose
+of "supplying the sick and needy, of St. John's and its
+neighbourhood with a daily meal," was established in the year
+1828, the management of its affairs being "undertaken by a
+committee of seven gentlemen in the town, (the present Speaker of
+the House of Assembly being the treasurer;) three of the clergy,
+(the Rev. Robt. Holberton being the secretary;) and five of the
+medical gentlemen." They hold their meetings in the
+churchwarden's office, and on the 18th of June, 1828, a female
+superintendent was appointed at a salary of 50l. currency per
+annum. A "soup-house" was erected in the yard attached to the
+superintendent's dwelling to the east of the church, the land
+being allowed to the society, free of rent, for the space of
+seven years by the heirs of "Donovan's Estate." A ship's boiler
+having been presented to the society, it was immediately put into
+requisition, and the first meal distributed the 2nd of August,
+1828, to thirty-six persons.
+
+Up to that time there was no parochial relief for any black or
+coloured person; and consequently, when the establishment of such
+a society became known, the sick and aged among those classes
+eagerly sought for shelter, and an alleviation of their
+distresses. The medical gentlemen of St. John's having offered to
+attend gratuitously, in monthly rotation, the cry of these
+unfortunate people was responded to; and five small houses,
+adjoining the "soup-house," having been first rented, and
+afterwards purchased by the society, fourteen of these afflicted
+ones were received and succoured. Many a poor outcast found his
+throbbing heart at rest when possessed of these humble
+accommodations; many a sufferer had his pains alleviated, and the
+oil of mercy poured into his wounds. Five or six successful
+amputations were also performed there during that early period.
+
+The rise and progress of this institution is so interesting, that
+I think I cannot do better than follow up the account of it, in
+the words of the Rev. Mr. Holberton, published in a "Brief
+Review:" "After the destructive hurricane of 1835, (when this
+society was found signally useful in furnishing a comfortable
+meal daily to the houseless poor,) the unappropriated residue of
+a grant from the legislature, for restoring some of the damaged
+houses of the poor of St. John's, was handed over to the
+committee of the Daily Meal Society, with the understanding that
+shelter should be given to those whose houses were considered
+past repairing. This testimony of public confidence, together
+with a handsome private donation of 90l. sterling, occurring at
+the very time when the land on which the institution had stood
+for seven years was required by the owner, stimulated the
+committee to attempt to re-establish it on a more extensive
+scale."
+
+Mr. Holberton proceeds to pass some high encomiums upon the Very
+Rev. the Archdeacon Parry (late of Antigua) for the great
+interest felt by him in the success of the society--encomiums, no
+doubt, richly his due; but the rector was necessitated to forego
+mentioning what it is in my power to do, that it was principally
+through his own kind heart, and from his deep Christian
+principles, which led him to exert every energy in its behalf,
+that the Daily Meal Society had its origin, and is in its present
+flourishing condition.
+
+Mr. H. proceeds: "Chiefly at his" (the archdeacon's) "instance, a
+successful application was made to the legislature for a piece of
+land near the rectory, 300 feet long by 100 feet wide. This was
+enclosed with strong palisades, and within were erected a
+kitchen, or 'soup-house,' of stone, 30 feet long and 15 wide, a
+wooden house, 60 feet by 20 feet, divided into six apartments,
+capable of accommodating four persons in each. A well was also
+dug 24 feet deep, and four of the wooden houses which stood on
+the old site were transported to the new one. The expense of
+effecting these objects amounted to 1300l. currency, of which
+about 1000l. currency was raised by subscriptions. This
+establishment was opened on 8th March, 1837, under the name of
+the _Asylum_, and has been providentially raised up to meet, in
+the most satisfactory manner, the various cases of distress that
+have occurred since the general emancipation in 1834, and has
+effectually done away with begging in the streets of St. John's."
+
+As leprosy is a frequent disease among the negroes, and, from its
+contagious character, doubts had arisen upon the propriety of
+admitting persons suffering from that dreadful complaint into the
+asylum, it was determined in 1836 to open a subscription list for
+the purpose of erecting another building for their reception.
+That they might have the benefit of sea-air and sea-bathing, the
+site chosen for it was by the sea-side. This building was
+commenced in 1837, and "although, from want of funds, scarcely
+one of the two wings could be completed, admission was given to
+five leprous persons on the 25th of April in that year." The
+society, however, "was compelled to declare that, without
+parochial allowances, the institution must fall to the ground.
+The claim to such help was at once seen to be most reasonable and
+highly needful, and the desired combination of _parochial_ with
+_voluntary_ relief was speedily effected. The legislature
+granting 600l. currency the following year, the debts were paid
+off, and the building finished and publicly opened under the
+title of the Lazaretto, on the 20th June, 1838."
+
+The Lazaretto consists of "six rooms for females and six for
+males, capable of accommodating three in each, besides one small
+room for one person only. The enclosed yard has been, for the
+most part, converted into plots for provisions, and for keeping
+poultry in. Some bamboos have been planted, which will in time
+afford materials for making baskets, about which one of the men
+is industriously employed, and by the sale of his work contrives
+to purchase clothes for himself, at half-price, from the Ladies
+Clothing Society. All the inmates appear thankful and contented,
+and some have shewn a readiness to receive scriptural instruction
+that is very pleasing." Poor creatures! some of them are, indeed,
+objects for the deepest commiseration, but their sufferings are
+alleviated as far as possible. Their residence is a delightful
+situation; the sea-breeze comes so pure from off the bosom of the
+ocean, that one would suppose disease must fly before it. From
+the farthest point of the land runs a causeway over to Rat
+Island, (the promontory already mentioned as being the site of
+one of the forts,) made about the year 1748, and which is
+passable at ebb-tide. Upon this promontory, which rises in the
+form of a steep mount, a lunatic asylum has been built during the
+past year, (1841,) the legislature having voted a sum for that
+purpose, for the use of such inmates of the institution as have
+shewn symptoms of aberration of mind.
+
+In 1838, the legislature gave a further grant of 500l. currency
+to the society, for the purpose of erecting "a separate ward for
+the male patients, with ten apartments capable of accommodating
+four persons in each," in that part of the establishment situated
+near the rectory, which was finished and opened on the 15th July,
+1839. An iron tank, capable of holding 7000 gallons of water, has
+been imported from England, and placed in the yard of the same
+portion of the institution. In 1840, the title of the society was
+changed from that of "The Asylum" to "The Daily Meal Society's
+Infirmary and Lazaretto," by which latter designation it is now
+distinguished.
+
+This establishment is, indeed, the only infirmary and hospital in
+the island, (with the exception of the cast-iron hospital at the
+Ridge, near English Harbour, for the use of the troops;) and not
+only the destitute poor of St. John's, but the poor from all the
+other parishes are admitted into it, as well as distressed and
+destitute sailors. The best medical attendance is procured for
+them; wine and other strengthening nourishment administered to
+the sick; and three wholesome meals allowed to each individual
+per day. Bedsteads and bedding are also supplied, there being "in
+the female ward six, and in the male ward ten furnished
+apartments, ready for the reception of patients at the shortest
+notice."
+
+Nor are these the _only_ accommodations this inestimable charity
+affords to the poor and distressed of our species, there being
+seven detached houses on the opposite side of the inclosure,
+capable of containing two, three, or four persons in each. "In
+these separate dwellings infirm persons are distributed, whose
+complaints, habits, or tempers, render it expedient that they
+should be kept by themselves. One house, fronting the
+burial-ground, is reserved for the reception of the dead previous
+to interment, and is used for a dissecting room when required.
+Eighty inmates can be comfortably accommodated at the infirmary."
+The income for the last year, (1841,) including subscriptions,
+donations, legacies, and parochial relief, was 1361l. 0s. 4�d.
+currency, the expenditure, 1225l. 4s. 4d.; the latter sum would
+have been of greater extent was it not from the kindness of many
+of the Antiguan proprietors, in presenting each a barrel or two
+of sugar.
+
+Thus have I gone with Mr. Holberton through the "rise and
+progress of the Daily Meal Society." Perhaps some of the truly
+charitable inhabitants of dear old England may be induced to send
+their mite across the waters in aid of this society, of whose
+existence they may probably not have been hitherto aware; and as
+I knew it was out of my power to use more cogent language--
+language which speaks to the heart--nor advocate the cause so
+well as our excellent rector, I have therefore quoted so largely
+from his "brief review," feeling assured he will pardon me, and
+hoping my readers will bear with me. In conclusion, I will once
+more use his words and say--"It is undeniable that the hand of
+God has been over it to sustain it in its small beginning, to
+uphold it in every difficulty, and to raise it to its present
+prosperity. To God, then, be all the praise; and may the success
+with which He has been pleased to crown the exertions of the
+society provoke every member and friend of it to increasing
+diligence in these works of charity, for which there will still
+be a continual call."
+
+The next charitable institution to be mentioned is "the Destitute
+Females' Friend Society," or, as it is now termed, "the Female
+Orphan Society." This latter title is, however, a misnomer, for
+but few of the inmates are orphans in the true sense of the word,
+they being, but with few exceptions, the illegitimate children of
+black or coloured women, (by white or coloured persons,) whose
+parents, still alive, are, from penury, incompetent to maintain
+them, or are living in a state of concubinage, and consequently
+not proper guides to youth.
+
+This society, which is invaluable, and is well known in England
+by its first name, although, perhaps, lost sight of in its
+modernized title, was established about the year 1816. The origin
+of it was as follows:--
+
+"The attention of a few pious and benevolent individuals of the
+female sex was called to the situation of an indigent class of
+coloured children of their own sex, (for whom there was then no
+parochial relief;) and witnessing with feelings of poignant
+regret their moral and religious degradation still more than
+their bodily necessities, they were impelled to exert, in
+connexion with a few other friends, all their united energies for
+the amelioration of the condition of these unhappy children, and
+thereby lessen the evils resulting to the community in general
+from a generation growing up without religious or moral
+cultivation. To effect these desirable objects, it was resolved
+to make an immediate and bold attempt.
+
+"The attempt was bold, because it could not be carried into
+execution by persons circumscribed in their means of doing it
+without the concurrence and aid of others like-minded, and of
+whose co-operation they were not assured. Encouraged, however, by
+one whose heart devised liberal things, though possessing himself
+little power to accomplish them from his own resources, but
+favoured with influence over some who considered themselves as
+stewards appointed by God to benefit their fellow creatures, and
+assured by him of competent aid from England, if it could not be
+obtained in Antigua, a commencement was made by a few
+subscribers, chiefly respectable coloured persons; and several
+children were immediately taken to be clothed, fed, and
+instructed; and when the plan was made known to the community at
+large, and to other benevolent individuals in England and
+Scotland, the society, by their generous assistance, grew into
+its present state of maturity. Such was its origin, and we cannot
+but observe in it the benefit resulting from a social compact to
+do good to our fellow creatures--the design to rescue from the
+paths of the destroyer, and to train in those of piety, industry,
+and useful occupation, the objects of their care. The success,
+though not in every instance unfailing, has been considerable. A
+few, there is reason to hope, are where sin and sorrow cannot
+enter. Others, as useful domestics, or conductors of their own
+households, testify to the truth of the fact.
+
+"Three of the elder girls have been sent into creditable
+situations, with a prospect of comfort to themselves and
+usefulness to their employers. Four more have been admitted to
+fill their places. Seventeen are now in the house. The committee
+would not arrogate to themselves any undue merit; but they
+gratefully receive the meed of approbation awarded to them by the
+frequent application they have for the admittance of children,
+and for girls to fill the place of servants."
+
+I have quoted so largely from the reports of the society (1841)
+for two reasons--first, because the committee are, and of course
+ought to be, better acquainted with its proceedings than myself;
+and secondly, because its details are related with a striking
+simplicity of style, which must speak to every breast not devoid
+of the "milk of human kindness," and I am sure no words of mine
+would be able to influence further the minds of those benevolent
+persons who, through the medium of these pages, may become
+acquainted with its existence, and feel wishful of adding a
+trifle to the funds of this invaluable society.
+
+That it is an invaluable charity none can deny, for it strikes to
+the root of all West Indian misery--_illicit love_; and what can
+be more acceptable to "the community at large" than the
+endeavouring to inculcate into the minds of its youthful members
+the doctrines of chastity and diligence in well-doing? The
+twenty-sixth anniversary of this society was held on the 31st
+December, 1841. The children, inmates of the house, are taught
+reading, writing, and arithmetic, and are instructed in all the
+arts of female plain-work,--straw-bonnet sewing and cleaning
+forming one branch of their employment. Their earnings for the
+last year were 107l. 0s. 7�d. currency, out of which, 5l. 13s.
+10�d. had to be deducted for materials to carry on their
+different works. The matron receives a salary of 60l. currency
+per annum, and the children are clothed and boarded, and have
+medical attendance found them; and when death sends forth its
+summons, and any of the inmates fall a prey to its inevitable
+shafts, their last resting-place is provided, and the funeral
+expenses paid.
+
+The next institutions worthy of mention are the town and country
+"Friendly Societies." They are formed upon a similar plan to some
+of the "poor men's clubs" in England, and prove of great
+assistance to the members in times of sickness and trial. The St.
+John's Friendly Society was established in 1829, under the
+auspices of that zealous minister, the Rev. R. Holberton, and was
+intended to promote good feelings among the lower classes, to
+assist them in procuring articles of mourning, aid them in times
+of deep distress, help those incapable of helping themselves, and
+encourage sobriety and industry among them.
+
+After the abolition of slavery, in 1834, many of the negroes
+removing from the estates to which they formerly belonged, and
+other estates not finding medical advice for their labourers, as
+in times of slavery, it was found necessary to enlarge the rules
+of the society; and by increasing the amount subscribed by every
+member, provide them with a doctor when ill, a certain sum per
+week during indisposition, and upon demise twelve dollars for the
+funeral expenses.
+
+The first country Friendly Society was established in 1832; but
+since that period they have rapidly increased. "In 1834," remarks
+Mr. Holberton, "there were eleven societies, with 1602 members;
+in 1835, 4197 members; in 1836, 4560 members." The Moravians and
+Wesleyans have each their Friendly Societies, formed and
+conducted upon a similar plan.
+
+On the first of January, 1842, I visited St. John's church, to
+hear the anniversary sermon preached to the society. The members
+met at the parochial school-room, where they formed into a
+procession, the women first, and the men following behind, and
+marched to the church, headed by the Very Rev. the Archdeacon,
+the Rev. Mr. Holberton, the rector, the Rev. Mr. Piggott, and the
+Rev. Mr. Saulez. The morning service having been performed, and a
+very suitable and excellent sermon preached by the Rev. Mr.
+Piggott, the members again formed into ranks, and marched back to
+the school-room, where the report of the society was read, short
+addresses made, and refreshments handed round, when the whole
+party dispersed. I could not help remarking the smart appearance
+of the members--such rainbow ribbons, and stylish bonnets--such
+parasols and sandals--such blue coats and white trowsers!--as
+made their appearance on that day would surprise any one.
+
+The next society, which by-the-bye ought to have been mentioned
+first, as being the oldest in the island, is the Bible Society,
+organized in 1815. It is comprised of every sect and shade in the
+island, and its interests are managed by an efficient committee.
+After the abolition of slavery in 1834, the parent society sent a
+"munificent grant, by which a choice portion of the Holy
+Scriptures was gratuitously circulated to about one-third of the
+inhabitants of this colony. Nine thousand seven hundred copies of
+the New Testament, bound together with the Book of Psalms, were
+thus placed at the disposal of the committee."
+
+The remaining societies are the "Missionary Associations"
+connected with the Wesleyan mission, established in 1820, and
+intended for the purpose of raising funds for the parent society
+in England. The "Temperance Society," introduced into Antigua in
+the year 1836; the "Juvenile Association," established 1815; the
+"Ladies Clothing Society," (or Dorcas Society,) and two other
+associations belonging to the established church, and known as
+the "Society for the Promotion of Christian Knowledge," and the
+"Branch Association of the Society for the advancing the
+Christian Faith in the British West Indies, &c." The Moravians
+have also a Missionary society, established in 1839.
+
+Having now gone through the charitable institutions, I must
+proceed to mention the "Banks," of which there are two in the
+island--the "Colonial Bank," incorporated by royal charter, 1836;
+and the "West Indian Bank," in 1840. The first of these banks
+issues a very neat note, (from five dollars [1l. sterling] and
+upwards,) bearing a lithographed representation of the royal
+arms, and encircled with a very prettily designed border; but the
+"West Indian" disseminates the most frightful "paper money" I
+ever witnessed. Some of their notes are _red_, and others _blue_;
+who was the designer of the "arms" which grace the head of them I
+know not, but they appear to be in direct opposition to all laws
+of heraldry. The shield (of an oblong figure) is divided into
+_three_ quarterings: 1st, or, an eagle (apparently) sable,
+beaked, rising from the sea; 2nd, gules, a ship full-rigged,
+argent; 3rd, azure, a castle, argent, battled. The supporters are
+two dwarfish cocoa-nut trees, (palm?) apparently springing from
+the same root as their companions, two gigantic pine-apples; the
+whole surmounted by the crown of England. With regard to the
+benefit which the establishment of these banks has rendered the
+country, various opinions have been formed.
+
+After the "Banks," the only remaining institution to be mentioned
+is the "Antigua Library Society," which according to its "rules
+and regulations," is devoted to "the gradual formation of a
+permanent library of general literature, and the establishment,
+in connexion with the library, of a reading-room, to be furnished
+with newspapers, journals, pamphlets, periodicals, and other new
+publications."
+
+Now it is well known that we live in an age of puffing, as well
+as steaming, and it may be imagined by some, that these caterers
+for intellectual sweets have fallen short of their promises. Not
+so, kind readers; take my word for it there are few better
+organized societies of the kind to be met with, or whose
+well-filled shelves bear a richer burden. Books to suit every
+taste (and every _age_ I might say--for our friend "Peter Parley"
+displays there the hidden treasures of the "earth, the sea, and
+skies," to the delight of the youthful reader,) may be found in
+this Library Society. Theological, metaphysical, biographical,
+historical, and lighter works, abound. Poetry is not excluded;
+our own sweet bards, from good old Chaucer, that "father of
+English poetry," down to the soft strains of Mrs. Hemans, or L.
+E. L., rank among its selections.
+
+Of modern works there are no end. There, the irresistible charms
+of that "Wizard of the North," the late Sir Walter Scott, with
+his "Jenny Deans;" his high-minded "Flora McIvor;" his
+unfortunate "Bride of Lammermoor," and all his other "gentle
+dames" and "lordly knights," are displayed before the enraptured
+reader. There Marryat amuses with his _na�vet�_, and those
+stirring incidents of a sailor's life, he knows so well to
+picture. There, "Boz" carries you perforce from the hut to the
+castle, and makes you weep or laugh in each. There are Bulwer and
+Ainsworth, who draw their gentlemen-ruffians in such a guise as
+to lead one to admire even a housebreaker or highwayman; Cooper,
+who makes us long to lead the life of a backwood's-man; James,
+with his darling peeps at "by-gone days;" the dear Miss Mitford
+and Mary Howitt, whose simple annals and sylvan scenes almost
+bring before us the lovely fields and sweet flowers of England;
+Mrs. Gore, with all her pageantries; Mrs. Trollope, with her
+playful but keen sarcasms; the Countess of Blessington, with her
+elegant diction and pure imagery, as lovely as her own sweet
+form; with many other authors of note, are equally at the command
+of the subscribers to this Antiguan bibliotheca.
+
+This society has been established for many years, but it was not
+incorporated by an act of the legislature until 1839, during the
+government of Sir Wm. Colebrooke. The members are elected by
+ballot, and after subscribing for ten years, they become free of
+the library, retaining all the privileges without being called
+upon for payment.
+
+The library is kept in the upper part of a large house, well
+adapted for the purpose, consisting as it does of two good sized
+apartments, with library tables, covered with respectable green
+cloth, and pamphlets of all sorts and sizes; the sides of the
+room are lined with bookcases. Altogether it is an admirable
+society, and I strenuously advise all inhabitants of Antigua,
+whose ideas are not absolutely tied down to "profit and loss," to
+become members; they cannot spend their spare money more
+agreeably, nor while away their leisure to better purpose.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXII.
+
+
+
+  Early rising and "Jamie Thomson"--Journey to English Harbour--
+  Windmills and Don Quixote--Groups of negroes and their
+  equipages--All Saints' chapel of ease--The "Hamlet"--Village of
+  Liberta--Grace Hill--Patterson's and Prince William--English
+  Harbour market--Streets and dwellings--Commissariat's store and
+  government tank--Dockyard--The superintendent--Stores and
+  storehouses--Engineer's workshop--Blacksmith's shop and blowing
+  machine--Limes and roses--Recollections of England--Lieutenant
+  Peterson and Lord Camelford--His lordship's pranks--The
+  ordnance--Clarence House and Dows Hill--The Ridge and "Shirley
+  heights"--Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley--Bats Cave--The
+  Savannah and its tombs--Indian Creek--Return to town.
+
+The church clock proclaimed the hour of five, as a gentle rap
+came at my chamber door. Awakened from a pleasant dream, I
+started from my couch, and heard with something like vexation,
+that it was time to dress, in order to prosecute our intended
+journey to English Harbour.
+
+Beautiful as is the breath of "early morn," still there is
+something very disagreeable in leaving your comfortable bed, and
+it may be, your gorgeous dreams, for the dull realities of life,
+and the necessary, but irksome duties of the toilet. I know I
+shall be cried down by all lovers of Nature for my unsentimental
+remarks. Thomson, enraptured with his subject "of early rising,"
+exclaims with all a poet's fervour--
+
+    Falsely luxurious, will not man awake,
+    And, springing from the bed of sloth, enjoy
+    The cool, the fragrant, and the silent hour,
+    To meditation due and sacred song?
+    For is there aught in sleep can charm the wise?
+    To lie in dead oblivion, losing half
+    The fleeting moments of too short a life--
+    Total extinction of th' enlighten'd soul!
+    Or else to feverish vanity alive,
+    Wilder'd, and tossing through distemper'd dreams,
+    Who would in such a gloomy state remain
+    Longer than nature craves--when every muse
+    And every blooming pleasure wait without,
+    To bless the wildly devious morning walk."
+
+Now, all this sounds very pretty--very romantic indeed; and we
+begin to fancy the poet amid some "bosky dell," or upland lawn,
+his shoes liberally bedewed with those glittering gems, which
+"hang in every cowslip's bell," and his unpowdered locks
+streaming behind him in the morning gale. But stay, gentle
+reader! hast thou not heard that Thomson was himself a very
+sluggard, and loved his warm bed far better than any sylvan scene
+he could so well describe? And in truth, many and many a poet,
+even to "Joanna Bailey," the morning rhymester, has been of the
+same mind. Then, why should I not tell the truth, and own my
+sloth--although at the same time, when once abroad, no one feels
+the nameless "melodies of morn" more than I do.
+
+But to resume my subject: the incidents of a day's journey to
+English Harbour. After partaking of a light breakfast, and
+quaffing of that cup "which cheers, but not inebriates," we
+stepped into the phaeton, and drove through the town, leaving our
+friends in "Scotch-row" busily employed in arranging their
+incongruous goods to the best advantage.
+
+The day was very favourable to our undertaking, for it was fine,
+but overcast. The sun was robbed of his extreme lustre by the
+intervention of various clouds, which passed along the sky in
+many beautiful forms. Some dark as ebon night; others of a
+silverish grey; the eastern ones tinged with gold and purple;
+while some again looked so white and fleecy, that you could fancy
+them so many snow-wreaths spread out upon an ocean of blue. The
+lights and shadows, too, of the far mountains, with all their
+blended tints, were beautiful objects in the landscape; and the
+occasional sight of a herd or two of cattle, standing in their
+usual dreamy posture, completed the picture. We passed several
+windmills (used in grinding the sugar-cane) with their sails
+unfurled, and going round merrily in the breeze; but unlike Don
+Quixote, I took them not for so many giants, nor wished myself a
+knight-errant, that I might rescue the "beautiful and high-born
+damsels" from their clutches.
+
+The road to English Harbour is, however, for the most part dull
+and uninteresting; only here and there a pretty prospect attracts
+the eye. But on this day (Monday[84]) it was rendered more
+cheerful by the groups of negroes, who, of every age and sex,
+were coming into town to purchase their weekly stores. Baskets,
+trays, and boxes--all kinds of vessels, indeed--were placed in
+critical positions upon their heads; but this appeared to cause
+no impediment to their ambling gait, while the chatter and song
+among themselves, and the smile and courtesy as they passed us,
+with the accustomed "How d'ye, massa?" "How d'ye, missis?" shewed
+that they considered their errand as one of pleasure rather than
+of toil. Carts were also put into requisition by the more
+extensive purchasers; some drawn by a ragged Canadian pony,
+similar to the little Sheltie breed; others by a tall
+grim-looking American horse, with its bones sticking out as bare
+as "Rozinante's;" and others again dragged along by a slight-made
+Creole, its mane and tail the colour of flax. Cattle carts were
+also bringing in loads of sugar, drawn by six miserable-looking
+oxen two abreast, their poor necks weighed down by the heavy
+wooden yokes.
+
+In one part of the road we passed All Saints' chapel of ease,
+belonging to the parish of St. John's. It is a very plain
+building, surmounted by a gothic pinnacle, answering the purpose
+of a steeple, with an aperture in the middle, intended, I
+suppose, for the admission of a bell.
+
+After passing a ruined estate, where the long grass grew upon the
+walls of a roofless building, once used as a boiling house, and
+accomplishing a steep descent, and one or two abrupt turnings in
+the road, we came to a cluster of houses, known by the title of
+"the hamlet." Many of these rural dwellings are very neatly built
+of native stone; and their little gardens appear to be well
+stocked with the country produce, such as potatoes, peas, eddoes,
+arrowroot, &c. A short distance from the hamlet is another
+similar collection of dwellings, bearing the name of "the village
+of Liberta," (as a painted board informed us,) and equally
+abundant in its bright green patches of edibles. The emancipation
+of the negroes, and their desire to possess a portion of the soil
+in perpetuity, gave rise to these villages, of which there are
+many in different parts of the island. Here they erect small
+houses, and plant ground provisions. Some of these little
+dwellings are very neatly constructed, being raised a little
+distance from the ground, and the front door graced with a flight
+of steps and a small portico, while the open windows are
+furnished with white curtains.
+
+Adjoining the "village of Liberta," lies the Moravian settlement
+of Grace Hill, snugly ensconced in its leafy fence, and, like
+other settlements of the kind in this island, breathing an air of
+happy tranquillity.
+
+Leaving Grace Hill, and travelling on some distance, we arrived
+at an estate called Patterson's, belonging to the Hon. John
+Athill, and celebrated in Antiguan history, as being the spot
+where the murder of the governor's child was perpetrated,
+(already narrated in the legend of Ding a Ding Nook,) on the
+occasion of the abduction of his lady in 1640. The "great house"
+upon this estate was honoured by a visit from our late lamented
+monarch, William IV., who in 1798 passed a night there.
+
+We here once again came within sight of the sea, which greatly
+added to the attractions of the scene, while on our left hand
+rose Monk's Hill, surmounted by its fortifications, and strewed
+in some parts with ruined Carib's houses. Passing through the
+town of Falmouth, we gained a kind of marsh, dotted over with
+clumps of aquatic shrubs, and here and there opening to the sea,
+and in a few moments entered the village of "English Harbour."
+The market is just at its entrance, and consisted, upon the day
+we visited it, of about ten or twelve persons, squatting on the
+ground, and having before them shallow wooden trays, containing a
+few country vegetables, a miserable-looking chicken or two, a few
+strings of strong-scented fish, a store of sun-burnt bread, and
+other similar luxuries!
+
+The houses are in general of very mean construction, and
+destitute of paint. There are, however, some very pleasant
+residences belonging to the crown, from which beautiful sea-views
+may be obtained; for the village is built along the margin of the
+sea, and in some parts the waves come rippling up to the very
+street, and wet the feet of the passengers. Dogs and ducks were
+enjoying themselves in the water,--the former dashing in and out,
+and rolling in the sand, while the latter, with their eyes almost
+closed, were resting upon their glassy couch, in all the luxury
+of idleness.
+
+Before entering the dockyard, we passed the commissariat stores;
+and on the opposite side of the road, a large tank, capable of
+containing 240 tons of water, built by the legislature for the
+use of the shipping, but from which the inhabitants of the
+village are allowed to draw water, the dockyard being so well
+supplied with those necessary reservoirs. This tank bears many a
+sculptured name; among the rest, that of "Nelson," that
+laurel-crowned hero, who visited Antigua in 1784.[85]
+
+A pair of strong, well-secured gates guard the entrance to the
+dockyard; which being thrown open, we drove in, and alighted at
+the office of the superintendant of the establishment,
+preparatory to inspecting the accommodations of the place.
+
+The dockyard consists of two separate departments. The first,
+since entitled St. Helena, was commenced in 1726, during the
+administration of John Hart, Esq., and at the suggestion of Capt.
+Francis Cooper, commander of H. M. S. "Lynn," and Capt. Arthur
+Del Garno, commander of H. M. S. "South Sea Castle." These
+experienced and clever naval officers saw the advantage of having
+proper wharfs, &c. for careening ships in Antigua, instead of
+being obliged to despatch the vessels appointed to this station,
+to the northern colonies, when any repairs were necessary, as
+they had before been in the practice of doing. The land chosen,
+as being most applicable to the purpose, consisted of two
+portions, of ten acres each, which in 1718 had been granted to
+Joseph Green, and William Greatrix, privates in H.M. troops,
+disbanded in consequence of the cessation of war. These lands
+were, however, forfeited to the crown by the non-settlement of
+them, by the grantees; and they were consequently appropriated to
+the purpose of establishing a dockyard, which is now not to be
+equalled in this part of the globe.
+
+This establishment having proved of such advantage to Antigua,
+and the rest of the Leeward Islands, his majesty, George II.,
+ordered that another wharf, with magazines, stores, and other
+appendages, should be constructed. Accordingly, in 1743, a tract
+of land was purchased from Thomas Bodkin; five acres of which was
+to be appropriated for the site of the new naval buildings; and
+the remainder to be allotted to poor white settlers, at the
+discretion of the commander-in-chief, the council, and assembly
+of Antigua. Such was the origin of the village of English
+Harbour, which, on account of being principally crown property,
+is disfranchised.
+
+The dockyard presents a fine and noble appearance; and under the
+able superintendence of Joseph Hart, Esq., everything seems to be
+conducted in the best possible manner; while the yard itself is
+kept so beautifully clean, that a walk through it affords real
+pleasure. The exertions of Mr. Hart may perhaps be better
+appreciated when it is considered that only six labourers are
+allowed him to perform all necessary duties; and that these men
+are also liable to be called upon by the pilot, at a moment's
+notice, whenever that officer is employed in piloting vessels of
+war in or out of the harbour.
+
+The storehouses upon St. Helena are principally used for storing
+coals, and in consequence, her majesty's steam-vessels frequent
+more that side of the dock. The largest ships of war (that visit
+these seas) can go alongside this wharf when necessary.
+
+On the south of St. Helena lies "Freeman's Bay," where such of H.
+M. vessels as are intended to remain but a short time generally
+anchor; the offing being more readily gained from thence than
+when further in.
+
+The last-erected part of this naval establishment, or "the
+dockyard," as it is more generally called, is separated from St.
+Helena by the blue waters of the dock, and contains various
+buildings, of which I shall first mention the commissioner's
+room, and pay offices, (under one roof,) as that was the first
+place I visited. The commissioner's room is a very pleasant
+apartment, with windows to the east and west, and folding-doors
+to the south opening upon a small stone terrace, with a flight of
+steps leading to the wharf beneath. From this terrace a
+delightful view may be obtained. St. Helena lies exactly
+opposite, its warehouses reflected in the clear, blue sea, which
+flows at your feet; on your left, Clarence House, and the
+adjacent country; while, on your right, the mouth of the harbour,
+guarded with its forts, and the blue ocean, with its snowy
+crested waves, blends with the sky in the distance. In the
+apartment itself are considerable quantities of Psalters and New
+Testaments, designed, I suppose, for the use of the naval seamen;
+but those annoying pests, the cock-roaches, have made sad work
+with the bindings. Leaving this room, we walked into the pay
+offices, divided by blue railings, into the commissioner's
+office, master shipwright's office, master attendant's office,
+and storekeeper's office; as the several white-lettered
+inscriptions informed me. These paying offices are all contained
+in one apartment, measuring about 8 feet by 4 feet. They must not
+be corpulent persons who occupy them, or they will be less at
+their ease than poor "Hudibras" was in the "Wooden Bastile."
+
+Descending another flight of stone steps, we crossed part of the
+yard, and arrived at the naval officers' quarters, a very
+pleasant and handsome building, along which runs a pretty
+verandah, commanding a similar view to that obtained from the
+terrace of the commissioner's room. Underneath these quarters, is
+the principal tank, divided into twelve compartments, and capable
+of containing 1000 tuns of water. From this tank pipes pass
+under-ground, to the edge of the wharf, (a distance of a hundred
+feet,) which being furnished with a cock, the water can be turned
+into the casks at pleasure; or, when in great haste, another pipe
+is fixed from thence into the hold of the ship, which in this
+manner receives its proper allowance of water, at a distance of
+100 feet from shore.
+
+A few paces from the officers' quarters, stands a large building,
+100 feet by 90 feet, used as a copper, steamer's, and lumber
+store; attached to which are four semi-circular tanks, capable of
+holding ten tuns of water each. Passing from this, we came to the
+cordage, sail, canvass, and clothing store, of a similar size;
+and opposite to which, at the distance of about ten feet, is the
+working mast-house, (100 feet square,) and joiners' loft above.
+In this building a party of men were busily employed in making a
+new mast for H. M. schooner, "Fair Rosamond," which, having met
+with an accident, a few days before, had put into Antigua to
+repair. Parallel with this building is another working
+mast-house, and joiners' loft above, of similar dimensions to the
+former, used also for the accommodation of the yard engines.
+
+Peeping into a snug little box, called the porter's lodge, and
+passing the guard house, store for condemned articles, and paint
+store, we entered the boat-house. By this time the sun had gained
+its meridian height, and poured a blaze of light over the whole
+yard, which, reflected from the white, sandy ground, dazzled my
+eyes with its powerful radiance, and oppressed me with its
+excessive heat. As I entered then this building, how delightful
+did its cooling air strike upon me!--how sweet was the breeze
+which passed over my brow, and allayed its throbbing! while the
+gentle plash of the water sounded most musically to the ear. One
+part of the boat-house is floored; the other has a channel cut in
+it to the depth of 18 feet, for the admission of the water. The
+roof is supported by 16 round stone pillars, of 12 feet in
+circumference; and above is a loft, where ships'-sails are kept.
+Leaving the boat-house, we entered the tar and block stores,
+where we found a part of the crew of the "Fair Rosamond" employed
+in making _spun-yarn_, used for the purpose of lashing, &c.
+
+About 20 feet distant, is a building containing painter's cabin
+for grinding paint, and the engineer's office, beneath is a lead
+cellar. We next visited the engineer's workshop, where we were
+agreeably entertained with seeing the cutting and punching
+machine put into motion. I am not engineer enough to describe
+this machine in a technical manner, and must therefore only
+remark that, by means of an oblong wheel, if I may be allowed the
+expression, worked by two men, it is capable of cutting through
+the thickest piece of cold iron, with the same ease and quickness
+a person would cut a scrap of paper, and at the same time,
+punching holes of about the diameter of a shilling through
+another piece of the same metal. We also saw a turning-lathe
+capable of turning any description of iron from three inches to
+28 in diameter. There were also innumerable machines, of other
+forms, and for various purposes, which were put into motion for
+our amusement; and a piece of the iron, which had been cut and
+punched in divers figures, was tendered to me--a memento of an
+engineer's workshop in a West Indian dockyard.
+
+The next place we entered was one more suited to a hyperborean
+climate than an Antiguan noonday--a blacksmith's shop. Here, six
+forges can be worked; and several Cyclops ply their skill amid
+their dingy implements. To these forges, immense bellows "turned
+their iron mouths," and, impelled by swarthy hands, sent forth a
+shower of glittering sparks. We also saw, two patent blowing
+machines, manufactured by "Thomas, late Halley and Co.," which,
+by a peculiar arrangement, propels the blast upwards and
+downwards at the same time. The master blacksmith worked them for
+a few moments, but informed us they had not so much power as the
+first pair of bellows we observed upon our entrance, which, from
+its magnitude, ought to be called the "King of the Bellows." He
+bid us place ourselves before the mouth of this last-mentioned
+pair, and we should be convinced of the truth of his assertions;
+but as I felt no wish to be blown away in a gale of ashes, I
+declined the invitation, humbly subscribing to his superior
+knowledge in such matters. I could not help thinking, that had
+Eolus known the use of these "blowing-machines," what a far more
+powerful wind he might have raised, than (as it is pictured he
+did) by employing the sons of Astr�us to blow so painfully with
+their distended cheeks amid his mighty caverns.
+
+Leaving the blacksmith's shop, we passed the sawpit shed and
+smaller tank, and the shipwright's house, and then turning an
+acute angle, came to a very pleasant residence, occupied by the
+superintendent of the yard, Mr. Hart. Here I met with some of my
+favourite lime-trees, their pearly flowers redolent with perfume.
+Mr. Hart kindly plucked for us some of the golden fruit; and
+afterwards presented, what was dearer to me, from the
+recollections they call up, three beautiful roses.[86] I may be
+laughed at for being so fanciful, but I never see a rose, I never
+inhale its rich fragrance, without wandering in imagination
+through the flowery gardens of my own land. "Oh! England, my own
+dear country! never did one of thy children love thee better than
+I do! In the midst of sickness, in the midst of suffering--when
+the fervour of a tropical sun burns through my very frame, and
+the climate throws its languor around me--my mind still reverts
+to thy verdant fields, I see again thy hawthorn-hedges with all
+their snowy blossoms, thy carpeting of lovely lowly flowers,--I
+breathe thy countless odours,--I hear thy sweet-toned birds, or
+the soft chime of thy village bells, and feel upon 'my very cheek
+thy bland and healthy breeze.'"
+
+But to return to Mr. Hart and his roses. I kept them through the
+hot day, bore them in safety to my home, and they now stand
+before me. But, alas! their beauty is all gone,--their
+discoloured leaves seem to mourn their own dishonour; and only
+that "the scent of the roses hangs round it still," I should
+scarcely know what the vase contains.
+
+After resting in a cool apartment for some time, and taking a
+glass of lemonade which Pomona herself would not have refused,
+the carriage was ordered to the door, and we were in the act of
+stepping in, when it occurred to us that this was a good
+opportunity to visit the spot where Lieut. Peterson received his
+death wound.
+
+I have already mentioned, in the historical part of this work,
+this unfortunate incident, but, with the permission of my
+readers, I must again allude to it. At the time of the
+occurrence, Lord Camelford commanded the "Favourite," sloop of
+war, and Commodore Fahie the ship "Perdrix," Mr. Peterson holding
+the rank of first lieutenant on board the last-named vessel.
+Commodore Fahie had left Antigua a short time before, to take
+temporary command of the fleet, then anchored before St.
+Kitts,[87] and during his absence, Lieutenant Peterson was, of
+course, left in command of the "Perdrix."
+
+It was the custom, in those troubled days of warfare, for boats
+to row backwards and forwards across the harbour during the hours
+of night, the sailors of the different ships in the dock, headed
+by one of their officers, taking it by turns to keep this watch;
+and the sleeper might often be roused from his dreams as the
+deep-toned _all's well_ resounded through the still night air.
+
+Lord Camelford and Lieutenant Peterson were unhappily at
+variance; and, perhaps to mortify his rival, Lord Camelford
+ordered Mr. Peterson to take the watch upon the very evening that
+a gay ball was to be given at Blacks Point to the naval officers.
+Unfortunately Lieutenant Peterson entertained the idea that as he
+was in command of the _ship_ "Perdrix," in the absence of
+Commodore Fahie, he was superior officer to Lord Camelford, who
+only commanded a sloop; and, in consequence of this false
+impression, he positively refused to obey his lordship's orders.
+
+The disastrous evening approached, and the lieutenant retired to
+his quarters above the capstan-house, in order to dress for the
+festive party. Arming himself with a pair of loaded pistols, and
+telling his boat's crew to attend him, Lord Camelford quitted his
+retirement, and stationed himself directly between the capstan
+house and the guard house, (now called the commissioner's house,)
+and there waited the approach of Mr. Peterson, whom he had
+already summoned to attend him.
+
+Upon the unfortunate young officer making his appearance,
+accompanied by some of his friends, his lordship again commanded
+him to take charge of the watch for the evening--the command was
+again refused--when, taking one of the pistols from his bosom,
+Lord Camelford immediately fired, and the ball passing through
+the breast of the brave, but inconsiderate lieutenant, he fell a
+corpse upon the ground, the deadly stream welling from the wound,
+and staining, as it flowed, the gay ball-dress which he wore.
+
+No sooner did the well-aimed weapon do its work, than, drawing
+the other from its resting-place, his lordship turned to the
+second lieutenant of the "Perdrix," and pointing it at him, asked
+if he would obey his orders, or meet the same punishment as Mr.
+Peterson? Life is sweet! The second in command saw his friend
+stretched at his feet with the red blood gurgling around him, and
+fearing the same fate, he obeyed Lord Camelford, and took the
+watch.
+
+Oh, duty! what a stern goddess thou art! or else how much art
+thou belied, for the deed was laid to thy charge. He disobeyed
+his superior officer, and in the midst of health, of buoyant
+feelings, and without, perhaps, time to think of a _hereafter_,
+he was to _die_. I can never more pass those sunken anchors which
+mark the tragic spot, without thinking of the mournful fate of
+this self-deceived mutineer, poor Lieutenant Peterson, or
+fancying I can see him in his death throes, stretched upon that
+sandy ground by the hand of him who had been once his friend.
+
+This circumstance was not the only one that caused Lord
+Camelford's name to be well known in Antigua. Upon another
+occasion he went to Mr. Kitto, then superintendent of the
+naval-yard, and informed him he wanted certain alterations made
+on board the vessel of war he commanded. Mr. Kitto, in the
+mildest terms, acquainted his lordship that he could not oblige
+him, as it would be going beyond his warrant. To this refusal the
+angry officer made no reply, but immediately going on board his
+ship, he summoned his boatswain to his presence, and ordered him
+to provide himself with a cat-of-nine-tails, and hold himself in
+readiness to accompany him ashore.
+
+In the course of a short time, Lord Camelford, the boatswain, and
+his mate, and a few of the crew of the "Favourite," proceeded to
+the dockyard, and a message was despatched to Mr. Kitto, desiring
+his attendance.
+
+Upon the arrival of the superintendent, Lord Camelford again
+demanded to know if he would accede to his wishes, at the same
+time giving a pretty broad hint that, in case of refusal, his
+back should be visited by the "Cat." Mr. Kitto once more
+observed, "It would be going beyond my warrant," when, as he
+uttered these words, at a signal from his lordship, the
+unfortunate superintendent was seized, and twelve dozen lashes
+inflicted with no unsparing hand by the boatswain of the
+"Favourite."
+
+This illegal and brutal conduct was not, however, passed over; a
+complaint was laid against Lord Camelford, and the case was
+investigated at the court house. Upon the day of trial, as may be
+supposed, the court was thronged with spectators; the assault was
+proved, and bail was about to be demanded, when his lordship
+begged permission to retire for a short time. His request was
+complied with; but no sooner had he gained the outer gate of the
+court house, than, seizing a horse which some gentleman visitant
+had fastened to the iron palisading, he mounted, and rode away in
+direction of English Harbour as fast as the animal could be
+urged.
+
+In a moment all was confusion. "The prisoner's escaped!" was the
+universal cry; and as the truth became known within the court
+house, various were the individuals who hurried forth, mounted
+their horses, and joined in the pursuit. The Honourable Edward
+Byam was then president of the island, and with the same high
+spirit of equity which has ever marked that family, and unbiassed
+by the rank of the offender, he immediately threw up one of the
+windows of the court-house, and shouted--"A hundred pounds for
+his recapture--a hundred pounds for his head!"
+
+On kept Lord Camelford, (almost overtaken by one of the
+constables, a very athletic man, of the name of White,) until at
+length the horse he was riding fell down from exhaustion, and
+obliged his lordship to take refuge in an adjoining cane-field.
+Upon the party who were in pursuit gaining the place of his
+retreat, a sudden stand was made. The rabble who had joined the
+party, and some of the horsemen, were stationed around the
+cane-field; while the constables, with a few attendants, and
+several dogs, entered the precincts of the field, and literally
+hunted the offending lord through its tangled mazes, until,
+overcome with fatigue, and unarmed, he was taken by his pursuers.
+
+In the escape, Lord Camelford's hat had fallen off, and he was
+therefore placed upon a horse bareheaded; and in this manner,
+surrounded by the officials, and followed by all the riff-raff of
+"St. John's and its environs," he was brought back, and once more
+placed before the court. Lord Camelford was ordered to find bail
+for his appearance at the sessions. The amount of his
+recognisances was 5000l.; Walter Colquhoun and Walter Riddle,
+Esqs., standing sureties for his forthcoming. Upon his lordship's
+return to English Harbour, he drew bills for the amount, (for
+which his sureties would have been liable by his departure, had
+he not taken this precaution,) and then proceeded on board his
+ship "Favourite," made sail, and quitted the shores of Antigua,
+with no very enviable feelings, it is to be supposed.
+
+The forfeited money was devoted to the purpose of sinking wells,
+(or springs, as they are termed in the West Indian idiom,) for
+the accommodation of the inhabitants of St. John's; and
+accordingly, a party of negroes were employed to prosecute the
+work.
+
+They commenced their labours at the head of the town, opposite to
+where the Scotch kirk is now building; but after digging to a
+great depth, and still finding no appearance of water, they
+became seriously alarmed, and unanimously refused to proceed,
+giving as their excuse, "that dey heard all de cocks crowing in
+de oder world!"
+
+To return to the incidents of our day's journey to English
+Harbour. After leaving the scene of Lieutenant Peterson's death,
+we once more walked round by the superintendant's residence,
+admiring as we went the neat manner in which the ponderous
+anchors and various-sized buoys were arranged; and then bidding
+the dockyard farewell, proceeded on our way to the Ridge, which,
+as its name implies, is the upper ground of a gentle ascent,
+appropriated to the erection of barracks, and other military
+establishments, for the accommodation of her majesty's troops.
+Before I proceed to describe the rest of the Antigua "_lions_," I
+must be allowed to remark, that, although in my life I have
+visited many public buildings in England, as well as in other
+parts of the globe, I never met with more politeness, from the
+lowest to the highest of the officials, than I experienced at
+this English Harbour naval establishment.
+
+A few paces from the dockyard, on the road to the Ridge, we
+passed the ordnance, consisting of two separate departments,
+divided from each other by an arm of the sea--one used as a
+store-place for guns and balls, the other for the reception of
+powder. These deadly weapons were so neatly arranged, the
+different sizes forming different tiers, and the balls were so
+prettily packed in the form of pyramids--the day was so fine, the
+sea so blue, and the buildings themselves so spruce, in their
+uniform of light yellow picked out with black, that I was quite
+enraptured with the picture--forgot the _use_ they were intended
+for, nor thought how many heart-broken wives and desolate orphans
+had wept, with tears like blood, the carnage such instruments had
+effected.
+
+The road wound up the ascent, which is continued until the Ridge
+is gained. On one side stands a very pretty residence, known as
+"Clarence House," belonging to the queen, and one of the
+dwellings the superintendent of the naval yard has under his
+control; and on the other side of the road rises "Dow's Hill,"
+surmounted by the country-seat of the governor. In this part of
+the road, a stone, marked with an anchor, points out the boundary
+of the naval ground; and on the other side of the stone, the land
+appropriated to the military commences.
+
+Still following the ascent, in process of time we gained the
+engineers' quarters, the first building which marks the Ridge;
+and opposite to it is the victualling office. Passing by the
+officers' quarters, the barracks for the privates, the several
+storehouses, and the iron hospital, for the reception of invalid
+soldiers, we stood upon the utmost verge of the place bearing the
+title of _Shirley_ Heights, so named after one of the former
+governors, Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart. A very beautiful view may be
+obtained from this spot, well worthy of a painter's study. Hills
+and dales clothed in tropical luxuriance; rocky precipices and
+lonely glens, where nature sits enthroned; steep mountains and
+ample solitudes, that look as if the foot of man never disturbed
+their primeval silence; and gentle slopes, dotted here and there
+with neat-looking dwellings. Below, on your right, lies the
+dockyard, with its uniform buildings, and the lovely harbour,
+forming a complete basin, encircled with its white sands; while
+beyond, the ocean presents one level sheet of burnished gold,
+over which the fishing-boats were gaily bounding, and throwing
+the shadow of their simple sails and slender masts far before
+them. The mouth of English Harbour, which is 113 fathoms across,
+was formerly defended in times of warfare by an immense iron
+chain. That, however, is now no more; but the staples by which it
+was secured still remain in the massive rocks, to prove the truth
+of this assertion. It is now protected by two forts placed on
+each side of the opening: Fort Charlotte, mounted with four guns,
+18 and 24 pounders; Fort Berkley, mounting twenty-four guns. At
+the latter fort is a magazine.
+
+After leaving the Ridge, we turned down a slight declivity, by
+the victualling offices, on our way to Bat's Cave, and the
+Savannah. Our road lay through groves of loblolly, manchineel,
+and acacia, which, twining their long arms together, formed
+various natural colonnades; while the ground was strewed with
+their matted leaves, in all stages of decay. Having alighted, we
+walked through the interwoven path, carefully avoiding as we went
+the different varieties of cactus, which spring up on all sides,
+and guarding our faces from the long sharp thorns of the acacia,
+and the boughs of the poisonous manchineel. The ground, rugged
+and broken, was plentifully sprinkled with disrupted portions of
+spar, which glittered in the sunbeams like so many gems, and put
+me in mind of Sinbad's walk in the "Valley of Diamonds." Immense
+ground-lizards were trailing their long bodies about, in search
+of their daily food, so amply provided for them by the great
+Benefactor of all; while others were basking upon these dazzling
+fossils, to imbibe the heat of the meridian sun.
+
+After taking many devious routes among the impending bushes, in
+order to discover the wished-for cavern, I was well pleased to
+hear the cheerful voice of our pioneer shouting forth "Come this
+way; I've found the right path." Scrambling, as best we could,
+over a huge bed of prickly pear, (one of the cactus family,) we
+gained an opening in the copse, and stood before the mouth of the
+cave. Two large trees, which grew on each side, extended their
+gnarled roots (from which the earth had been washed) across the
+opening, forming natural steps, by which we descended, and stood
+within the cave.
+
+Huge masses of the rock which forms the cavern have fallen in,
+and in great measure blocked it up, so that it now only presents
+an arena of about 50 feet in circumference, although in time past
+it was of considerable extent. From the main cavern, two passages
+branch off in opposite directions. They are perfectly dark, the
+only means of exploring them being by the use of flambeaux; but
+to what length they extend has never been discovered. Mr. McLane,
+a late resident of English Harbour, (now of Canada,) has made
+several attempts to that purpose, all of which proved fruitless;
+the greatest distance he ever proceeded was to the extent of two
+sea-lines, about 120 yards. The only known occupants are bats,
+which breed there in immense numbers, and often attain the size
+of a common pigeon. A dank unhealthy vapour is emitted from these
+openings, proceeding, no doubt, from the carbonic acid gas they
+contain. This vapour soon extinguishes the light of a torch,
+which is one reason this cavern has never been further
+explored.[88] A streak of dark green runs down one side of the
+cave, which was pointed out to me as indicating the existence of
+copper; but upon examining a portion of the rock I brought away
+with me, I found that the colour was occasioned only by a
+vegetable substance adhering to the stones.
+
+In former times, Bat's Cave was a great place of concealment for
+the tribes of erratic Caribs, when visiting Antigua on their
+predatory excursions; and tradition still points it out as the
+scene of a barbarous carousal among that wild and savage race, in
+one of their attacks upon this island. As, however, I am now
+giving the narration of a day's journey, I will proceed to
+mention the other spots we visited, and leave the Legend, which
+is rather lengthy, for the next chapter.
+
+Emerging from "Bat's Cave," and wending our way amid the same
+rugged impediments, in process of time we reached our vehicle,
+and stepping into it, proceeded to visit the ruins of the old
+government house in the Savannah, the scene of the attack
+narrated in the "Legend of Ding a Ding Nook," and of a similar
+attempt in 1654. After driving for a short distance over pasture
+land, exhibiting a dreary view of brown and withered herbage, the
+effects of the late dry weather, (rendered more striking by the
+contrast of the deep green of the different trees,) which
+crackled under the horses' feet, we arrived at another tangled
+maze of shrub and brushwood, where it was again necessary to
+proceed on foot, in order to prosecute our intended search.
+Forcing our way through this almost impenetrable thicket,
+rendered in some places more impervious by the twinings and
+intertwinings of the withe, (a native parasite,) stooping to
+avoid some straggling branch, or springing over a thorny bank, we
+gained an open glade; and walking up the gentle acclivity, stood
+by the side of the ruins.
+
+They consist of what appears to have been a cistern, probably the
+first built in the island, and a low wall of stone, marking the
+foundation of the government house. Within this last-mentioned
+ruin stand two tombs, the inscriptions upon which are as
+follows:--
+
+                            Antigua.
+         Here lieth the body of Mrs. Elizabeth Warner,
+                  Late wife of Edward Warner,
+                      Of this island, Esq.
+              She was a woman of exemplary piety;
+                   She was the best of wives,
+                   The tenderest of mothers,
+                  The faithfulest of friends,
+      And of a most charitable, compassionate disposition,
+       Whose death was generally and deservedly lamented
+               By the good people that knew her.
+        She departed this life the thirteenth of August,
+                             1723,
+                  In the 37th year of her age.
+
+                     Here lies the body of
+                       Mr. Henry Warner,
+            Who died on the 17th day of Sept, 1731,
+                  In the 39th year of his age,
+                   Much beloved and lamented
+                     By all that knew him.
+                     In memory of whom, his
+               Affectionate brothers, Edward and
+                         Ashton Warner,
+                     Erected this Monument.
+
+About these tombs grew many a sweet and fragile flower, and many
+a gaily painted butterfly hovered around, and sported in the
+blaze of the "great luminary;" while the "Turk's caps" (another
+species of cactus) shewed their crimson crests in all directions.
+A broken bottle, the relic of some former maroon (_f�te
+champetre_) lay upon one of the tombs--not more fragile or fickle
+in its nature than the mouldering dust which slept beneath, or
+those who in the heyday of life stood looking on.
+
+Leaving the tombs and ruins to their usual solitude, we retraced
+our steps; but in doing so, I could not help thinking that the
+name "_Savannah_" was misapplied, or Dr. Johnson was wrong in his
+etymology, for I am sure there is wood in abundance of one kind
+or the other. A great number of wild cattle inhabit this part of
+the country, deriving, it is said, a plentiful supply of
+nutriment from the herbage found there.
+
+On our return to English Harbour, along the same road, we had a
+glimpse of "Indian Creek," so famous in "story," which meanders
+through verdantly-decked shores in a picturesque manner. It
+derives its name from an engagement which took place upon its
+banks, between a party of Caribs, (or Indians,) narrated in the
+following "Legend."
+
+Once more entering the village of English Harbour, we proceeded
+to the house of W. C. Brooks, Esq., where we rested for some
+time, experiencing those nameless acts of hospitality for which
+the Antiguans are noted; and where I willingly laved my burning
+temples with the fragrant "Eau de Cologne." Really, this marching
+and counter-marching, beneath a tropical sun, is no slight
+matter, let my readers think as they may. "Sol" visits the face
+with many a fiery mark, and if he _kisses_, he leaves his _sting_
+behind. I felt glad when we once more took our way to town; and
+although no lovely moon was abroad,
+
+   "----the floor of Heaven
+    Was thick inlaid with patines of bright gold,"
+
+which sufficed to light us gloriously on our way, and bring us in
+safety to Spring Gardens.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[84] It may be necessary to remark, for the benefit of my English
+readers, that although Saturday is the principal _market-day_,
+Monday is more generally used by the labouring class for coming
+into the capital to provide their weekly supplies. So much is
+this the case, that where you may see fifty labourers employed
+upon a plantation upon the other days of the week, on Monday you
+will scarcely find twenty.
+
+[85] As it may amuse the reader, we here transcribe an original
+letter, written by our great naval hero at this period, which is
+carefully preserved by its proprietor as an invaluable relic:--
+
+                               "English Harbour, Aug. 3rd, 1784.
+
+"As the captains of the navy at this port mean to establish a
+mess for the hurricane months, by their desire I write to beg
+that you will send us round, by the first opportunity, the
+undermentioned articles--viz., one hogshead of port, one of the
+best white wine that you have, twelve dozen of porter in bottles,
+fifty pounds loaf sugar, one firkin of good butter, two baskets
+of salt, two pounds black pepper.
+
+         "I have the honour to be, your humble servant,
+
+                                                "Horatio Nelson.
+
+"P.S. As we only wait for these things to begin our mess, the
+sooner they arrive the better. Mr. Druce, the agent victualler is
+a going to send provisions round for the Fury which will be a
+good opportunity.
+
+"Addressed to ------ Kerr, Esq."
+
+[86] It may be necessary to remark, that roses are very choice
+flowers in Antigua, the climate not appearing to agree with them.
+This is strange, as in the East Indies, where the heat is even
+greater, whole fields are planted with this beautiful shrub, in
+order to get their leaves to distil the far-fame "Attar."
+
+[87] Of which island he was a native.
+
+[88] It is supposed that these passages extend to the sea-shore,
+a distance of about a quarter of a mile.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+
+
+                 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
+
+                   A Legend of the Savannah.
+
+The sun was rapidly sinking in the west, but its declining beams
+only threw upon every object a richer tone of colour, as a party,
+consisting of three persons, emerged from a small shrubbery, and
+halted upon the brow of a shelving hill.
+
+The foremost of the party was a man who probably verged upon the
+mellow age of fifty; but his eagle-eye, and stalwart frame, told
+that his years sat light upon him. He was what would have been
+termed a handsome man; but a supercilious curl of his upper lip,
+and an expression of scornful indifference, which, though
+apparently suppressed, lingered in his dark hazel eye, added to a
+brow furrowed by deep lines, and compressed by slumbering
+passions, which only waited the spur of the moment to be called
+into action, detracted from the otherwise agreeable character of
+his features, and effectually forbid any approach to familiarity.
+A deep and unsightly scar, the effects of a sabre-cut, which,
+commencing from the right ear, traversed the jaw, injured yet
+further his good looks. He was habited in a complete suit of
+black velvet, of the richest texture; the sombreness of which was
+in some measure relieved by diamond clasps, and small
+knee-buckles of the same costly stones. A small collar of the
+finest lawn made its appearance above the doublet; and a
+black-sheathed "Andr�a Ferrara," with basket hilt, dangling from
+his side, and calf-skin boots, completed his costume. This dress,
+fitting tight to his shape, shewed to advantage the large but
+perfect symmetry of his person; while the dark brown hair,
+sprinkled here and there with the grey badge of declining years,
+cropt close around his temples; and the steeple-crowned hat
+peculiar to his sect and times, bespoke him, what he was, the
+friend of Cromwell--the roundhead governor of Antigua.
+
+The next person that gained the open ground was Bridget, the
+beautiful daughter of the governor. If ever there was a
+personification of extreme loveliness, it was known in Bridget.
+Scarcely seventeen, her slight but rounded figure, and her sweet,
+mild face, while it struck the beholder with admiration, and
+riveted his attention, gave the idea of some embodied sylph. Her
+complexion was of that ethereal tint of which the poet says--
+
+   "Oh, call it fair, not pale."
+
+The lily could scarcely outvie it in purity of colour, although
+every emanation of her guileless heart called up the latent
+rose-tint into her delicate cheek; while the small, pouting lip,
+with all the rich glow of the coral, forbid effectually the
+supposition of ill health. A slightly aquiline nose, a
+classically-formed and dimpled chin, with a fair and open
+forehead, in which every azure vein could be traced, were the
+prominent features; blended with that mingled sweetness, that
+feminine grace, and that inexpressible _something_, which really
+and actually constitutes beauty. But her eyes--those soft, lovely
+eyes--look at them, as she raises the long lashes, and you can
+fancy, that were her features devoid of any pretensions to
+comeliness, those liquid orbs would richly compensate for all. Of
+the clearest hazel, every glance that fell from them spoke the
+inmost feelings of her soul; and whether they beamed forth in
+pity, or flashed with animation, they equally bespoke the
+benevolence of her nature.
+
+Puritan as her father was, he did not deny his daughter, any more
+than himself, the use of a few ornaments; and a bandeau of pearls
+fastened around her graceful head vainly endeavoured to restrain
+the abundant tresses of her soft, glossy, brown hair, which,
+breaking loose, floated upon her shoulders in natural ringlets.
+Her dress of dove-coloured satin flowed in rich and ample folds
+to her feet, from whence the little slipper peeped forth; and,
+gathered around her slender waist by a girdle of pearls, shewed
+the admirable proportions of her figure. The stiff puritan ruff
+of lawn, in which every plait could be counted, screened her
+neck; but around her small white throat was fastened a carcanet
+of her favourite gems, not purer in tint than her own fair skin.
+A wimple of the same colour as her dress, and lined with pale
+rose tiffany, was tied under her little rounded chin, but which,
+in the joyousness of her nature, she had unfastened, that she
+might more fully enjoy the beauties of the evening.
+
+The remaining individual that formed the trio was in every
+respect far different from those already described; yet, as she
+stood a few paces behind Bridget--to mark the difference in their
+rank, although near enough to join in the conversation--her lofty
+and commanding figure called equally for attention and
+admiration. The clear olive tinge of her complexion, the large
+black eye, which sparkled with dazzling light, and the long
+coal-black hair, braided and twined round and round her head,
+told that she was not of the same country, or the same people as
+her mistress. Servant--slave as she was--she looked born to
+command; and daring must that person be who would encounter for
+the second time the flash of her offended eye. Formed in a larger
+mould than Bridget, her figure still bore the utmost symmetrical
+proportions; and the rounded arm and taper fingers might have
+served as a model for the Goddess of Beauty: this female was
+Zulmiera--the half-Carib girl.
+
+The mother of Zulmiera was a very beautiful Carib woman, who, in
+that disgraceful partition of them among the English, (after the
+massacre of their male friends at St. Kitts during Sir Thomas
+Warner's government of that island,) fell to the share of a young
+Englishman, a follower of Sir Thomas Warner's son, in his after
+colonization of Antigua. Xamba accompanied her master to his new
+residence, and there bore him a daughter; but dying soon after,
+the infant was brought up in the governor's family. After the
+reduction of Antigua by Sir George Ayscue, and the establishment
+of a republican governor, in place of the opposer of Cromwell's
+power, Zulmiera, who was rapidly attaining the full burst of
+womanhood, was, at the earnest entreaties of Bridget Everard, who
+was charmed with the untutored graces of the beautiful Indian
+maiden, promoted to the office of her companion. It must be
+allowed, that this appointment met not with the full approval of
+the governor. Violently attached to Cromwell, and bearing bitter
+hatred to the royalist party, and all malignants, he thought the
+girl had been too long nurtured in their principles to make a
+faithful attendant to the daughter of a republican. But Bridget
+was his only child,--a motherless girl; and stern and unbending
+as he was to others, his iron mood gave way before her playful
+caresses.
+
+Still there was another and deep cause of dislike he had against
+Zulmiera. Upon further acquaintance with this Indian girl, he
+found her too haughty for his own arrogant spirit to deal with.
+Too high-minded and forgetful of her real rank as a servant, and
+apparently under the impression that, while attending upon her
+mistress, she was in fact her equal, if not her superior.
+
+Zulmiera was, in truth, fully alive to this sentiment. She looked
+upon herself as the descendant (on her mother's side) of a long
+line of chiefs--of those who had once been rulers in the land,
+and who had received from their swarthy subjects the homage that
+monarchs of a more civilized nation were wont to receive.
+
+Thinking thus of Zulmiera, no wonder that the governor distrusted
+her. Nor was the girl ignorant of his opinion of her; and
+consequently their feelings of dislike were mutual. She knew he
+hated her; and he felt that in her heart she despised him. Still,
+she loved Bridget--for who could not love that mild, fair girl?--
+loved her with an intensity of fervour, unknown to the
+inhabitants of colder climes--and would have shed for her her
+heart's best blood; for love and hatred were to Zulmiera
+all-absorbing passions. Yet there was another who held the
+_first_ place in Zulmiera's heart,--one that was to the
+half-instructed, half-Indian girl--her "idol god."
+
+But to return to the movements of the trio. Having left the
+concealment of the shrubbery, the whole party paused, and with
+different feelings gazed upon the landscape stretched before
+them. The slight declivity upon the brow of which they were
+standing, had been cleared, and was now planted with tobacco,
+whose broad green leaves, and delicate trumpet flowers, attracted
+the attention of numerous gorgeous insects. This plantation
+stretched to the end of a wild copse, where every native shrub
+and brushwood grew together with the loftier trees, and formed an
+almost impervious thicket. Beyond this copse, the waters of a
+beautiful creek, which ran a short way inland, glittered like
+gold in the beams of the setting sun; while on every side rose
+undulating hills, begirt with many an infant plantation,
+belonging to some of the earlier settlers. Further off, the broad
+ocean stretched its interminable waves, its billows sleeping in
+calmness; except in one part, where a long ridge of shelving
+rocks fretted them into motion, and caused them to send forth
+their angry roar.[89]
+
+At the bottom of the hill upon which they were standing ran a
+bridle-path, which, winding in and out, branched off in two
+directions; one passing through the populous town of Falmouth,
+the other extending to the shores of a beautiful harbour,[90]
+where some industrious settlers were cultivating the adjoining
+country. Along this path a single horseman was seen slowly
+advancing, in the direction of the harbour. As he gained the
+skirts of the hill, he reined up for a moment his prancing steed,
+and, looking towards the party, raised his plumed hat and bent
+forward in graceful obeisance. The dark eyes of Zulmiera sparkled
+with delight, and standing, as she did, behind the governor and
+his daughter, unseen by them, she raised her hand and waved a
+return, while, at the same instant, the rosiest blush sprang to
+the cheeks of Bridget, and crimsoned her very throat. The
+horseman again bent his head, and then, replacing his hat, shook
+the broidered reins and galloped off in the direction he had
+chosen for his equestrian amusement.
+
+Following with his eye the plumed stranger until he was lost in
+the intervening copse, the governor turned to his daughter, and
+fixing a steady, penetrating glance upon her, exclaimed, "Ha!
+then the young malignant's designs appear to be more open than
+they were. But, mark me, daughter Bridget," and his eye became
+sterner and darker as the pupil dilated with his awakening
+passion, and his haughty lip curled with increased scorn--"mark
+me, Bridget, sooner than I'd see thee mated with one of his
+malignant race, mine own hand should stretch thee at my feet a
+breathless corpse!--yea, as Jephtha slew his daughter, so would I
+slay thee!" The agitated and frightened girl threw herself upon
+her father's breast, and, amid tears and sobs, stammered out--
+"Father--dearest father! think not so. Raphe de Merefield is
+naught to me; he never spoke to me but with the most studied
+politeness, and, indeed, he shuns rather than seeks my presence."
+--"'Tis well, then, maiden--my suspicions are unfounded; the wolf
+has not entered the sheepfold to steal the tender lamb; but I
+have observed him lately wandering about these grounds, and I
+feared my daughter was the object. But listen!" and again his eye
+flashed, his lip trembled--"verily, I know that young man well--
+ay, better than he knows me--for his father was my neighbour and
+my deadliest foe!--and what was more, the foe of Cromwell! He it
+was that assisted that tyrannical man, Charles Stuart, in his
+escape from Hampton Court, and after aided him in his long
+struggles to maintain possession of a crown which had long been
+doomed to destruction. He it was that beggared his brother to
+obtain money to carry out that well-slain tyrant's nefarious
+designs! And he it was that, at the battle of Naseby, gave me
+this ugly sign of recognition," pointing to the scar which
+disfigured his cheek. "But was he not discomfited? Yea, as the
+dry leaf he fell. Lo! as David girded up his strength in the day
+of battle, so girded I up mine; and as he smote his enemies with
+the edge of the sword, so my trusty weapon stretched the haughty
+Philistine upon the ground, never to rise again! Guess, then, if
+thou canst, how much I love yon cavalier, who hath sucked in with
+his very milk the taint of papistry--for did not that Babylonish
+woman whom men call the Queen of England rear him up from his
+cradle? yea, and taught him all her sorceries. Had my honoured
+friend and master, the protector, followed my advice, this young
+traitor to the commonwealth would never have escaped from England
+to disseminate his malignant poison abroad. Cromwell should have
+crushed the egg before it was hatched. But verily I wax hot and
+am impatient, not considering the time approacheth when rebels
+and arch-rebels shall melt away as the hoar frost melteth before
+the sun. Despatches have reached me that it is Cromwell's
+intention to send, in the course of a few months, a squadron
+against St. Domingo, and my instructions are to see that a proper
+troop be raised in this island to join the expedition. I am
+resolved that Master Raphe de Merefield be one of the gallants
+who shall serve in that affair; a goodly bullet-shot or, albeit,
+a well-applied stroke from the rapier of a Spaniard, may relieve
+me from his machinations; or should he refuse to fight under the
+banner of the commonwealth, verily, I know the malignancy of his
+father cleaves so closely to him, that it will only be
+maintaining Cromwell's interest to have him properly secured, or
+we may see another revolt when we least expect it." Thus saying,
+the governor walked forward a few paces, and shading his eyes
+from the lingering sunbeams, scanned for a few moments the scene
+before him.
+
+What passed in the mind of Bridget during the foregoing
+conversation it is unnecessary to relate, but the emotions called
+up in the heart of the Carib girl while hearing her lover thus
+traduced were violent and various. Hate, scorn, and revenge,
+fired her eye, and sent a torrent of hot blood through her veins,
+which, rushing to her face, turned the clear olive to a fiery
+crimson. Yet so well was she accustomed to master her feelings,
+that before her young mistress was sufficiently recovered to
+commence another dialogue, she stood the same apparently calm
+being, her hands folded across her breast; and only that her eye
+was more dilated, and her cheek still slightly tinged, none could
+tell that aught had moved her.
+
+An exclamation from the governor, who had, for the last few
+minutes, been intently gazing in one direction, arrested his
+daughter's attention, and, gliding to his elbow, she inquired if
+he addressed her. "Look, Bridget," replied her father, in a still
+stern, but not unmusical voice--"look o'er yonder grove--dost
+thou see aught moving?"--"Nothing, dearest father," answered the
+maiden, in her own sweet tones--"nothing but the bland zephyr
+sporting amid the young green leaves, and playing its fairy music
+upon them." "Foolish enthusiast! But haste, girl!--fetch me the
+wondrous instrument the lord-general gave me, and let me give yon
+grove a sharper look--methinks it contains more inmates than we
+wot of. I have heard of wild Indians and their deeds."
+
+Roused by his remarks, Zulmiera started forward, and in an
+agitated voice which she in vain tried to stifle, exclaimed, "Oh,
+no, your excellency, naught is there, save, as the Lady Bridget
+saith, the whispering wind or the fly-birds as they seek their
+leafy bower." "Back, girl!" fiercely retorted the governor--"back
+to thy place; who taught thee to hazard thy remarks? Methinks thy
+cavalier masters might have made thee know thy station better."
+
+Again the blood rushed to the cheek and temples of Zulmiera--
+again the eye flashed fire--but again she mastered her emotions;
+exclaiming, however, as she did so, but in a voice too subdued to
+reach her companion's ear, "Rest till to-morrow's night, proud
+man, then wilt thou learn who governs here!"
+
+At this moment, Bridget placed in her father's hand the lately
+invented telescope,[91] when, raising it to his eye, he narrowly
+observed the whole breadth of the copse; the distant creek and
+the farther ocean; but nothing met his eye--nothing, save the
+wavy green, or the wing of a weary sea-fowl as it sought its
+nest. Slowly dropping the instrument, the governor once more
+gazed with his naked eye in that direction. The sun had set some
+minutes before, and as the last of his golden beams faded in the
+west, he turned upon his heel, and, followed by the females, was
+once more lost in the verdant shrubbery.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[89] Now called the Memora's.
+
+[90] Now called English Harbour.
+
+[91] Telescopes were said to have been invented during the reign
+of James I., although some attribute the invention to Roger
+Bacon, 1292.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+
+
+                  CONTINUATION OF THE LEGEND.
+
+It was a calm, delicious, West Indian night. The moon shone in
+all her glory, bathing lawn and lea, upland and woodland, in her
+silvery light. The waters of the creek we have already noticed
+were rife with beauty; and the waves of the far-off ocean, as
+they dashed in measured cadence on the beach, broke musically
+upon the listener's ear.
+
+A stately figure, enveloped in a dark mantle, glided from behind
+a screen of lime and coffee trees; and gaining the open ground,
+looked cautiously around. As if assured its movements were
+unobserved, the figure darted off at a rapid pace in the
+direction of a magnificent grove; but with steps so light, that
+it would scarcely have crushed the lowliest flower. Upon reaching
+the verge of the grove, it stopped; and placing a finger upon a
+small gittern,[92] carried beneath the ample cloak, struck a
+single note. The crushing of the younger twigs and leaves told
+that the signal was heard; and springing from the covert, a young
+man bounded forward, exclaiming--"Zulmiera! dearest Zulmiera! how
+long thou hast stayed to-night!"
+
+The moon still shone with a clear and fervent light, displaying
+every object in a distinct manner, and shewing the picturesque
+dress of the impassioned stranger to the best advantage. His
+figure was slight but perfectly formed, while his fair skin and
+glowing cheeks bespoke his Saxon origin. His eyes were of the
+clearest blue, and his long auburn locks, parted in the middle of
+his forehead, flowed over his shoulders, in length and profusion
+equalling a woman's. A slight moustache shaded his upper lip,
+which, slightly curved, displayed a set of teeth faultless in
+size and colour. His dress, fashioned in that superb style which
+the followers of Charles loved to indulge in, consisted of a
+doublet of three-piled murrey-colour velvet, pinked and slashed
+with white satin, and ornamented with elaborate embroidery, his
+falling band, or collar, of the richest point lace, and his
+nether garments to match with the doublet, were finished at the
+knees with white satin roses and diamond studs. A small but
+admirably tempered Toledo, the hilt of solid gold, and sparkling
+with diamonds, was strapped to his side by an embroidered belt;
+while a Flemish beaver hat, looped with a diamond button, and
+surrounded by a snowy plume, shaded his somewhat boyish features.
+A dark short cloak, lined with white tafiety, which he had flung
+aside when springing to meet Zulmiera, floated from behind his
+right shoulder, and served to give him still more an air of
+graceful elegance.
+
+"Dearest Zulmiera," said the young stranger, when seated upon the
+trunk of a large tree, which, uprooted by a former hurricane, and
+slightly covered by a little alluvial earth, had shot forth a few
+sickly branches--"dearest Zulmiera, how long I have waited for
+you--how much I have to tell you! I have watched each star as it
+peeped forth from the heavens--heard the shrill pipe of the
+curlew as it flew to its nest--but listened in vain for your
+light footstep; say, dearest, what kept you from the
+trysting-tree?" "I was in attendance upon my mistress until this
+late hour," replied Zulmiera, speaking in an ironical tone, and
+laying a strong emphasis upon the word _mistress_, while a slight
+look of scorn passed over her animated features; "or else doubt
+not I would have met you long before; for where, Raphe, would the
+bird with weary wing seek for rest but by the side of its own
+fond mate? or why should yon white flower," pointing to a
+night-jasmine which was growing in all its wild luxuriance near
+the spot, and loading the air with sweet and powerful perfume--
+"why should yon white flower haste to open its pretty leaves, as
+soon as the day melts away, were it not to seek the fond love of
+those beautiful stars which are twinkling above us? Raphe, you
+are my mate, and your eyes are my stars, in which I read my
+destiny."
+
+To this fond but fanciful rhapsody, Raphe de Merefield made no
+answer, except by pressing the beautiful hand which rested in
+his; and the half-Carib continued: "But it was not to tell you
+this, Raphe, that brought me here so late to-night. Come with
+me." And suffering himself to be led by her, they quitted the
+deep recess in which they had been seated, and walked into the
+open ground already mentioned.
+
+Looking up the ascent above the tops of the trees, which grew in
+vast profusion, forming a complete barrier around, the moon-beams
+fell upon the roof of an irregular but commodious building. This
+was government house, and through an opening in the leafy
+enclosure, the light of a taper was seen brightly shining from a
+small diamond-pane casement, in one of the gable ends of the
+edifice. "In that room," said the romantic girl, directing
+Raphe's attention to it, "sleeps one, who, next to yourself, I
+love most on earth; and scornfully, harshly as her father has
+treated me, she must and shall be saved! Mark me, Raphe, an' thou
+lovest me, guard the Lady Bridget as thou wouldst a sister. Wild
+spirits will be abroad ere the glad sun shall set and rise again,
+or yon pretty stars be peeping at us; and though I think they
+will care for mine as they would me, still, Raphe, I would have
+thee prepared. When all is over--when you and I--but I need say
+no more, except that Bridget shall not then be ashamed to love
+the despised, the scorned Zulmiera," and as she spoke, she threw
+back her graceful head with the air of a Cleopatra, while the
+bright crimson mantled in her cheeks, and increased the lustre of
+her eyes.
+
+"What mean you, Zulmiera?" inquired the young cavalier, as soon
+as he could make himself heard; for her utterance during the
+preceding speech had been so rapid, and her manner so excited,
+that all his former attempts to interrupt her had been useless.
+"What mean you, dearest Zulmiera? Why this flashing eye--this
+agitated mien? Is it because yon king-killing, canting Puritan,
+called you _servant_, that these wild dreams (for I know not what
+else to term them) are floating through your brain? Never heed
+him, dearest; you will soon be my bride, my acknowledged wife;
+and then let me see who dare call you servant, or taunt you with
+your birth! Know that I love one tress of this black hair"--and
+he drew her fondly towards him--"better than all the fair
+ringlets and fairer skins of England's boasted daughters. But
+draw your mantle closer round you, and let us to our former seat,
+where I will relate to you all my plans.--You know," resumed
+Raphe, as they gained their resting-place upon the old tree,
+"that after the unfortunate battle of Naseby, upon which bloody
+field my brave father fell, fighting for his lawful sovereign
+against those long-eared Roundheads, (to which sect our notable
+governor belongs!) my widowed mother, seized with an
+irrepressible panic, fled from England, carrying me, then a
+stripling of about fourteen, along with her. Our first place of
+refuge was Holland, where the queen, whose godson I have the
+honour to be, had sought safety some time before. But my mother,
+disliking the country, and having received letters from her
+husband's brother, my revered uncle, whose namesake I am,
+offering her an asylum in Antigua, she determined to avail
+herself of his kindness. Thus it was I became a resident in this
+island; and during my frequent visits at government house, when
+loyalty ruled there, I met my dearest Zulmiera. You are aware, I
+believe, that my uncle, who was formerly a merchant of the city
+of London, was joined with Sir Thomas Warner in a grant of land
+situated in this island, the grantor of which was the martyr
+Charles. Upon part of that land the brother of young Phillip
+Warner is erecting a new dwelling, and cultivating the
+surrounding country. It will be a fine place when it is finished;
+and Warner deserves it should be, for he made a gallant defence
+in 1651, when old Noll sent Sir George Ayscue to reduce this
+island, because, forsooth, it stood out for its lawful sovereign.
+But to resume my story, which the brave actions of Mr. Warner
+drove from my head. To-day, I confided to my mother our mutual
+engagement ; she has listened to the voice of her only, her
+beloved son, and is prepared to receive you as a daughter.
+To-morrow, I will call upon the governor--although I hate the
+sight of him, from his high-crowned hat down to his ugly looking
+calf-skins--and make my proposals in form. If he consents with a
+good grace, well; if not, I feel assured my dear Zulmiera will
+not fear to leave his house and protection for the home and
+hearth of one who loves her as I do. I still hope that our own
+King Charles (God bless him!) may overcome his enemies, and be
+seated upon the throne of his fathers; then will we visit old
+England, and in my own paternal mansion, I've no doubt I shall
+get my handsome Zulmiera to forget her native island and all her
+wild dreams." So saying, with a look of strong affection and with
+gallant bearing, he raised her hand to his lips.
+
+"Oh, Raphe!" said the agitated girl, as her lover concluded his
+relation, to which she had listened with breathless attention;
+"oh, Raphe! had I known this but even ten days agone, how much
+might I, how much might we all have been spared. But I thought
+your mother would never have consented that the governor's
+servant should mate with her noble son--and my own high spirit,
+goaded on as it has been by the scornful usage I have met, has
+led me to do a deed which may, perhaps, dash the cup of happiness
+from my lips. But, then," she murmured, as if more in communion
+with herself than in reply to her companion, "but then to be a
+queen, and Raphe (they promised that, or I would never have
+consented) to be a king. No, it must be: I have gone too far to
+turn back;" and she raised her head, and looke steadfastly, but
+apparently half-unconsciously at the young man, who, surprised at
+her behaviour and language, was gazing intently upon her. At
+length, slightly shaking her hand to arrest her attention, he
+inquired again the cause of her extreme emotion. Receiving no
+reply from Zulmiera, whose large dark eyes were still fixed upon
+his face, he became seriously alarmed, and, in an anxious tone,
+entreated her to quit directly the night air, and seek that
+repose she appeared to need so much, within the precincts of
+government house. Allowing herself to be led in that direction,
+they in silence gained the shrubbery; when, after asking in vain
+for an explanation, and hearing her again and again express her
+assurance that she was not seriously indisposed, Raphe de
+Merefield bade her good even. As he turned to leave the spot,
+Zulmiera appeared to recover herself, and drawing a long breath,
+exclaimed "To-morrow, dear Raphe, to-morrow thou shalt know all--
+till then, farewell!"
+
+For some moments after the departure of the young cavalier,
+Zulmiera remained standing in the same posture; and then,
+suddenly rousing herself, she gazed once more earnestly around,
+and finding all still, stepped without the bounds of the
+shrubbery, and retracing her steps, once more gained the border
+of the copse. She was about to make use of an arranged signal,
+when a dark figure came bounding over a natural mound, formed by
+wild plants and brushwood, and in another instant stood before
+her.
+
+Near seven feet in height, and of corresponding breadth of
+shoulder, the stranger looked able to compete with a dozen men of
+ordinary growth, while his whole appearance was such as to strike
+terror into the heart of the beholder. Attired in a garment of
+dark red cloth, which only covered his person from his waist to
+his knees, the remainder of his body was painted in a most
+hideous manner. A black leathern belt, passing over his brawny
+shoulders, supported a huge naked broad-sword, doubtless obtained
+in some predatory exploit, whose edge was blunted and hacked by
+many a rough encounter, dangled by his side, or struck harmlessly
+against his naked legs. His face, the features of which were
+naturally good, was disfigured by grotesque colourings, and
+horrible scars; while his long black hair, to which was fastened
+small pieces of copper, brass buttons, and tufts of parrot
+feathers, floated behind him in matted locks, and gave him the
+appearance of a wandering gnome. An old regimental coat, from
+which part of the lace had been cut, and which was another of his
+war spoils, was tied around his neck by the two sleeves, serving
+the purpose of a cloak; and upon his breast reposed--a silent but
+melancholy memento of his habits--a string of human teeth, their
+dead white contrasting vividly with his dark skin. This stranger
+was Cuanaboa, the dreaded Carib chief.
+
+Rendering to Zulmiera his simple obeisance, he commenced the
+conversation by remarking in a barbarous kind of dialect, "the
+Boyez[93] gave the time to meet when the big star," pointing to
+the moon, "rose above the hill, and the lady promised to obey;
+but now it's shining o'er our heads, and the charm may be broken
+--the bow may indeed be bent, and the arrow speed on its way, and
+yet fall to the ground wide of the mark. We meet to-night, 'tis
+true; but the time the Boyez appointed is long past, and now
+perhaps our purpose may fail, and our enemies escape." "Oh, no!
+Cuanaboa, believe not so," replied Zulmiera; "listen not to the
+wild words of the old Boyez; thinkest thou _I_ care for what he
+saith?" "Ay, lady, but thou art fallen from the faith of thy
+fathers--thou hast lived too long with the Christians; but it
+matters not now, let us talk of our plans. Myself and comrades
+have agreed to lead the attack upon yonder house about this time
+to-morrow night, and we look to you to draw from their weapons
+those little round stones which kill so many of us, we know not
+how. Guacanagari has joined me with twice so many men, (holding
+up his hand, and spreading out his fingers,) and as fine a canoe
+as ever was paddled along these seas. He landed with his party
+just as the sun touched the waters; an hour badly chosen by him,
+for too many eyes are then abroad. I hope, though, none saw them
+but their red brothers, for they skulked along by the thickest
+part of the woods; and now their canoe lies high and dry, beneath
+the shelter of yon high banks, while they repose in safety in the
+cave,[94] attended by old Quiba. Now, lady, as, when the white
+men are subdued, and, falling beneath our clubs, or transfixed by
+our arrows, serve us as sacrifices to Mayboya,[95] we are to look
+upon you as our Queen----"
+
+"And Raphe as your _king_" interrupted Zulmiera, in hurried
+accents. "You promised that, or I would never have agreed to what
+I have; and had I known Cuanaboa as much as I do to-night, even
+that scheme of grandeur would not have tempted me to turn
+traitor, to promise, as I have, to open the doors, where I have
+lived so long, to give entrance to the enemy, and to lull their
+fears, while the worse than blood-hounds were upon their steps.
+Oh, Cuanaboa! I might have been so very happy, had I only waited
+in patience for a little time--happier as plain Mistress de
+Merefield, than I shall be, perhaps, as queen of the Caribbees;
+but it is no use repining now; I have given my word, and, right
+or wrong, Zulmiera will stand by it."
+
+The long eyelashes fell over her burning eyes, and the beating of
+her heart sounded audibly, and shook her very frame; but
+recovering herself, she continued--"There is another subject to
+be discussed, Cuanaboa; the daughter of the governor is my
+dearest friend, and therefore she must be preserved unharmed
+throughout the fray, guarded with the most scrupulous care, and I
+look to you to place her in safety. Dost thou comprehend what I
+say?"
+
+"Yes, lady; and I was going to remark, when you interrupted me,
+that as you wish certain of the enemy saved alive, particularly
+the fair youth you mentioned just now, it would be well for you
+to give your orders to Guacanagari; and for that purpose I would
+advise you to visit the cave to-morrow evening, when we intend
+holding a serious assembly and dance, previous to commencing the
+attack. Guacanagari will be rejoiced to meet you, and he will be
+as fond of the maiden and the youth as I am;" and a very sinister
+expression, but unobserved by Zulmiera, passed over the face of
+the Carib chief. "Besides, lady, it is but right that Guacanagari
+should know his queen--never Carib had one before."
+
+"I will attend," replied Zulmiera. "And now, as it is past
+midnight, 'tis time we parted;" so saying, she bowed to the
+Carib, and drawing her mantle around her, walked away with all
+the dignity of a sovereign.
+
+Keeping his dark eye fixed upon her as long as she continued in
+sight, no sooner had the intervening shrubs screened her from his
+view, than, throwing himself upon the ground, the Carib broke
+into a shrill laugh. "And so the haughty beauty thinks that a
+people who have scarcely known control, will bend their shoulders
+to the dominion of a girl and a white-faced boy!--ha! ha! If the
+wild kites chose a king, would it be a colibri?[96] No! Should
+the Caribs follow the custom of the strangers who have come among
+us, and torn away our most fruitful countries, and own a king,
+who should it be but Cuanaboa? for who has slain so many enemies
+and drunk their blood as I have? or who can shew a longer string
+of teeth than I have here?" and he played with the one which
+ornamented his neck. "If Zulmiera will be queen, it must be as my
+wife; and truly she would serve to swell a richer triumph than I
+even expect to have. But as for the youth, his race is almost
+run; before this time to-morrow, I think he will give me but
+little further trouble. 'Tis well I came so soon to-night, and
+thus was witness of the meeting. I wish I could have understood
+what he said; but these pale-faced people speak so vilely, that
+it is hard to know what they mean. However, it matters not, I saw
+enough; and as I intend Zulmiera to be my prize, I will very
+shortly get rid of the youngster; he'll make a capital sacrifice
+to Old Mayboya. White men eat better than red people, it can't be
+denied;" and as he finished his soliloquy, he arose from the
+ground, and springing over the brush-wood, was lost to sight in
+the impending copse.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[92] A kind of small guitar, in use about the 16th and 17th
+centuries.
+
+[93] A priest, or magician, among the Caribs.
+
+[94] Now called Bat's Cave.
+
+[95] Supreme deity among the Caribs.
+
+[96] The Indian name for the humming bird.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XXV.
+
+
+
+                   CONCLUSION OF THE LEGEND.
+
+The morning after this eventful meeting rose fair and bright.
+Bridget and Zulmiera, seated at an open window, inhaled the sweet
+breeze, while they bent over their embroidery frames; and the
+fair Englishwoman was giving a description of her own far-off
+land, when, gazing in the direction of the before-named copse,
+Zulmiera espied a white feather glancing for a moment above the
+tops of the trees, a well-known signal indicating the presence of
+Raphe de Merefield.
+
+Framing an excuse, she shortly left the apartment; and taking a
+circuitous route to escape observation, in a few moments gained
+the old tree, where, as expected, she found her lover.
+
+"Zulmiera," said the young man, after the first greetings were
+passed, "I have suffered deeply in mind since we parted, on
+account of the strange words you let fall last evening; and I now
+seek your presence to demand, as your affianced husband, their
+signification. Tell me, Zulmiera, thine whole heart, or as Willy
+Shakspeare saith--
+
+   "----If thou dost love me,
+    Shew me thy thought?"
+
+Accosted in this sudden manner, and surprised by his serious
+demeanour, Zulmiera's caution forsook her, and bursting into
+tears, confessed to her lover, as best she could, the following
+facts. Having been treated with great scorn and harshness by the
+governor, and looking upon herself as the descendant of a line of
+chieftains, and consequently entitled to respect, a deep and
+irresistible feeling of revenge sprang up in her breast, and
+absorbed her every thought. Roaming, as she had ever been wont,
+amid the romantic dells and leafy labyrinths of her native
+islands, she came one evening upon a curious cavern; her love of
+novelty led her to inspect it, but in the act of doing so, she
+was driven back in alarm by the sight of a flashing pair of eyes.
+
+Unable to suppress her fears, yet too much overcome by the
+encounter to fly, she leant against the rocky opening of the
+cave; when, rushing from his concealment, a powerful man, whom
+she immediately recognised as a Carib, darted upon her, and
+placing his hand upon her mouth to prevent her screams from being
+heard, was about to bear her away as his captive.
+
+Terrified as she was, she still had the presence of mind to
+declare her origin, and claim his forbearance, on the score of
+their allied blood. To such a plea, a Carib's heart is never
+deaf; the grasp upon the shoulder was relaxed; the armed warrior
+stood quietly by her side; and a conversation in the Carib tongue
+(which Zulmiera had acquired from her mother) was carried on
+between them.
+
+The stranger declared himself to be a Carib chief, named
+Cuanaboa, and with the openness for which that people were noted
+among their friends, acquainted Zulmiera with the cause of his
+appearance in that lone cave. Following the example of his
+fathers, Cuanaboa said he had resolved to make an attack upon
+Antigua, accompanied by a neighbouring chief and their several
+tribes; but in a war-council held by them, it had been arranged
+for him to pay a secret visit to the island, in order to inspect
+it, and endeavour to find out its weakest parts. Accordingly,
+leaving his mountain home in Dominica, he had paddled himself
+over in a slight canoe, and easily discovering the cave, which
+had been well-known to the tribe in their former predatory
+visits, he took up his abode there.
+
+Zulmiera listened eagerly to this communication; and excited as
+she was, thought it a good opportunity for effectually procuring
+her revenge. After arranging for the safety of Raphe de
+Merefield, to whom she had been long engaged, she finally
+promised, that upon an appointed night, she would open the doors
+of government house, and admit the band of Caribs. Ignorant of
+the real force of Antigua, and led away by her own turbulent and
+romantic passions, the Indian girl wrongly supposed that a few
+half-armed Caribs would be able to strike terror into the breasts
+and compete with the well-arranged ranks of the English. In
+consequence of this wild fancy, Zulmiera further proposed, as her
+reward, that when the battle was gained, and the English
+defeated, she should be immediately elected queen, and Raphe king
+of the Caribbees. Many other meetings had taken place between
+herself and the Carib chief; and she concluded her relation, by
+informing Raphe of the arrival of the whole band of Caribs, and
+that the hour of midnight was the time proposed for the intended
+assault upon government house.
+
+The surprise, the consternation of the young man, as she unfolded
+this tale to him, was overpowering, and for some moments he
+remained as if rooted to the ground. At length, striking his hand
+upon his forehead, he exclaimed, in a tone of extreme bitterness
+--"Oh! Zulmiera--Zulmiera! what hast thou done! Surely it is some
+horrible dream; and yet it is too true; thou couldst not have
+distressed me so, an' it had not been. To-night, sayest thou?
+Unhappy girl, thou hast indeed dashed the cup of happiness from
+thy lips! Now I understand thy visible emotion--thy
+half-smothered expressions! But I must away--the lives of
+hundreds, perhaps, hang upon my steps;" and darting from her, he
+left her to the deepest feelings of despair.
+
+Leaning against the tree for the support her own limbs denied
+her, the unfortunate Zulmiera remained with her face buried in
+her hands, until aroused by the sound of footsteps. Hastily
+looking up, Raphe again stood before her. "Dearest Zulmiera,"
+said the pitying young man--"rouse thyself; I cannot leave thee
+thus; all may yet be well. I will immediately to the governor,
+and without implicating you as my author, inform him of the
+inpending attack. Much as I dislike the man, it is my proper plan
+--so now dry your eyes," for the warm tears were again gushing
+down the cheeks of the repentant girl; "return to the house, keep
+yourself quiet, and trust the matter to me." So saying, he
+imprinted a fond kiss upon her brow, and turning away, hastened
+with a quick step in the opposite direction.
+
+Mastering her emotions, Zulmiera returned to her home,
+determined, when the evening fell, to seek the cave, and if
+possible, persuade Cuanaboa of the impracticability of his
+schemes, and by that means, prevent the effusion of blood, which
+a meeting of the Caribs and English was sure to produce.
+
+In the meantime, Raphe sought the presence of the governor, and
+without bringing forward Zulmiera's name, contrived to give him
+the necessary information, and then departed, taking upon himself
+the office of scout. Preparations were immediately made for the
+intended attack--ambuscades arranged, and fire-arms cleaned; and
+with anxiety the party awaited the rising of the moon.
+
+As the day grew to a close, Zulmiera became more and more
+restless, until at length, unable to bear the conflict of her
+feelings, she left the house, and, unperceived by the family,
+sought the promised meeting in the cave. The sun had sunk behind
+the waves, and the stars began to peep forth, as the half-Carib
+gained the entrance of the wood. Carefully threading her way
+through its tangled bushes, and avoiding as she went the numerous
+impediments, she gradually progressed deeper and deeper in its
+thickening gloom. The air was calm, and nothing disturbed the
+almost pristine stillness but the whisperings of the soft breeze,
+or the shrill cry of some of the aquatic fowls who made that
+lonely grove their home. In some parts the foliage was less
+thick, and the beams of the now rising moon forced their way
+through and snorted upon the ground, forming many a fantastic
+shadow. Uprooted and sapless trees lay in various directions,
+around which parasites wound in luxuriant beauty, and hid the
+whitened wood in wreaths of green. In other parts, the larger
+trees and shrubs made way for dense thickets of thorny underwood,
+over which the active girl was obliged to leap.
+
+Onward she sped, stopping only now and then to recover her
+breath, and then darting forward at increased speed, until,
+gaining a little knoll, where pointed crystals strewed the
+ground, and the manchineel showered its poisonous apples,
+beautiful and treacherous as "Dead Sea fruits," a mark in one of
+the trees told her she was near the place of her destination; and
+winding round another thicket, Zulmiera stood before the mouth of
+the cave.
+
+The interior was lighted by a few torches of some resinous wood,
+stuck in the fissures of the rock; and their flickering light
+shone upon the dark countenances and wild costume of the inmates.
+Branches of trees roughly plaited together were placed partly
+before the opening, and served to screen the light of the torches
+from the view of any wandering stranger; while the ground before
+the entrance to the cave had been cleared away, forming a kind of
+rustic amphitheatre.
+
+As soon as the maiden was perceived, Cuanaboa came forward, and
+introduced her to Guacanagari, and a few of their principal
+followers, who only appeared to be waiting for her presence, to
+commence their solemn dance, as was ever the custom of the
+Caribs, before undertaking any warfare.
+
+Darting from the cavern, about twenty of these wild warriors
+arranged themselves in a circle around an old woman, known among
+them by the name of Quiba, who, squatting upon the ground,
+chanted, in a monotonous voice, the burden of a war-song: the men
+moving slowly, and joining in the chorus--"_Avenge the bones of
+your fathers, which lie whitening upon the plain!_" Continuing
+this revolving motion for some time, but gradually increasing in
+celerity, they at length appeared as if worked up to the highest
+pitch of their passions; and releasing each other's hands, and
+twirling round and round with the greatest rapidity, tearing
+their hair, and gnashing their teeth, at length threw themselves
+upon the ground, foaming with rage.
+
+Zulmiera, terrified at their frantic movements and horrid
+contortions, tremblingly leant against the trunk of a tree,
+until, aroused by an exclamation from the old woman, she
+perceived another party of savages, apparently of meaner grade,
+bringing in large calabashes and baskets, huge pieces pf baked
+meats, and bowls of some kind of liquids. Placing them upon the
+ground, they retreated; and old Quiba, quitting her recumbent
+posture, seized upon one of the pieces of meat, and throwing it
+among the prostrate warriors, exclaimed, in a cracked voice--
+"_Eat of the flesh of your enemies, and avenge your fathers'
+bones!_"
+
+As she uttered these words, the men sprang from the ground, and
+rushing upon the viands, devoured them with savage greediness;
+while Cuanaboa, lifting up one of the smaller pieces of meat,
+approached Zulmiera, and, with harshness, requested her to eat
+it. Alarmed at his ferocious manner, but not daring to shew it,
+the trembling girl essayed to obey; and putting a portion of it
+into her mouth, by a strong effort swallowed it. No sooner was
+this effected, than, breaking into a horrid laugh, and with his
+eyes gleaming like the hy�na's, Cuanaboa shouted to the old
+woman, who had just before entered the cave--"Bring forth our
+present for our queen; surely, she deserves it, now she is one of
+us!"
+
+Startled by his evident irony, Zulmiera turned round, at the
+moment that Quiba emerged from a natural passage in the interior
+of the cave, bearing in her hand a small bundle, which, with a
+sardonic grin, she laid at the feet of the observant girl.
+"There, lady; that is our first present," croaked forth the old
+hag. "Ay, lift it up, and search it well; Mayboya will stand your
+friend, and send you many more, I hope." So saying, she hobbled
+up to one of the torches, and taking it from its resting-place,
+held it before the face of Zulmiera.
+
+Impelled by an irresistible desire to know the worst, Zulmiera
+stooped and undid the folds of red cloth wound around their
+proffered gift. After untwining it for some time, the wrapping
+felt damp to the touch; and dreading she knew not what, she
+loosed the last fold, _and a human head rolled upon the ground_.
+
+Uttering a cry of horror, but forced on by her unconquerable
+emotions, she turned the gory object round; and as the torches
+flashed with further glare, her eye fell upon the pallid
+features. The blue eye, glassed by the hand of death, and over
+which the starting eyelids refused to droop--the parted lips,
+parted with the last throe of agony, and shewing the pearly teeth
+--the finely-moulded cheeks, but disfigured by a deep gash--and
+the long auburn hair, dabbled with the blood that still oozed
+from the severed veins, bespoke it Raphe de Merefield's! Her own
+blood congealed around her heart like ice--her pulse quivered and
+stopped--and with one unearthly, prolonged shriek, the
+unfortunate Zulmiera sank senseless upon the ground.
+
+Recovered by the means of some pungent herb applied to her
+nostrils, by the hands of Quiba, she awoke to all her misery. Her
+eyes fell again upon the mutilated head of her lover; while the
+demoniac voice of Cuanaboa whispered in her ear--"The food you
+partook of just now _was part of the body of your minion!_ I met
+him wandering in the copse a time agone; and I thought he would
+make a fine sacrifice to Mayboya." This last horrible information
+completely altered her nature, and changed the fond loving girl
+to the disposition of a fiend. Lifting up the head, and
+imprinting upon the blood-stained lips one long fervent kiss, she
+enveloped it again in the wrappings of red cloth, and carefully
+binding it around her waist, was in the act of quitting the cave,
+when arrested by the powerful grasp of Cuanaboa.
+
+"Not so fast, lady!" exclaimed the Carib chief; "remember your
+oath to Mayboya! We still stand in need of your assistance to
+guide us to the house of yon white chief. Remember that was part
+of your bargain: let us in; and when we have vanquished the
+enemy, we shall still be willing to receive you as our queen;
+that is, if you will agree to take _me_ for your king instead of
+the pale-faced boy, whose body has served to regale us and our
+people." With eyes that flashed fire, Zulmiera was about to
+reply, when suddenly constraining herself, she simply muttered--
+"My oath to Mayboya!--follow me, then!" and with determined
+purpose, left the cavern.
+
+The whole party of Caribs, consisting of about eighty, were by
+this time gathered around the spot, armed with bows and arrows,
+clubs, darts, spears, and all the other rude implements of
+warfare. As the two chiefs made their appearance, they pointed to
+the moon--then rapidly ascending the heavens--and uttering a
+suppressed war-whoop, they commenced their march in the direction
+of government house, preceded by the half-Carib.
+
+Unconscious of pain, Zulmiera darted through the thorniest
+thickets, turned not aside for any impediment; but borne up by
+the hopes of revenge, she outstripped the most active of the
+party. Knowing, as she did, that the inmates of government house
+were prepared for the attack, she felt assured that few, if any,
+of the Caribs would escape; but completely altered in
+disposition, from the effects of the horrible scenes she had gone
+through, she experienced no compunctious feelings for the event.
+Her only wish, her fixed purpose, was to possess herself of a
+dagger--stab Cuanaboa to the heart--_drink his warm blood as it
+gushed forth_--and after bathing the head of her lover with it,
+kill herself upon the spot. To deceive Cuanaboa, she pretended
+that her fear of Mayboya led her to conduct the party, an
+assurance which his own blind zeal for that dreaded deity caused
+him to believe.
+
+In furtherance of her dreadful scheme, she carefully avoided
+those spots where she supposed an ambuscade of English might be
+stationed; fearing lest some other hand should take the life of
+the chief. In this manner she was gradually progressing towards
+the house, thinking it more probable a weapon could be there
+procured, when in passing a clump of trees, one of the governor's
+scouts, who was stationed behind it, and who was unable to bear
+the sight of the Carib chief so near him without endeavouring to
+take his life, sprang from his concealment, and rushing upon
+Cuanaboa, was in the act of stabbing him with a dirk, when, with
+the cry of some infuriated wild animal robbed of its prey,
+Zulmiera was upon him. Wresting the weapon from the astonished
+Englishman, the maddened girl fled after the Caribs, who, abashed
+by this encounter, and the sudden appearance of a troop of
+soldiers, were flying in the greatest confusion, and at their
+utmost speed, in direction of the before-named creek, where they
+had left their canoes.
+
+Many of the Caribs fell wounded by the way, from the fire of
+their pursuers' muskets; but Cuanaboa, closely attended by
+Zulmiera, still kept on, until after passing over the same
+undulating ground, forcing their way through thickets, leaping
+over natural barriers, and creeping through leafy arcades, they
+gained upon the creek. But woe to the Caribs! a party of English,
+in hot pursuit, were, in fact, driving them into a trap, at the
+point of their weapons. Throughout this irregular and hurried
+retreat, Zulmiera had never dropped her dirk, or her gory burden;
+neither had she lost sight of Cuanaboa; while the chief, seeing
+her dash the weapon from his uncovered breast, when one stroke of
+the Englishman's hand would have caused his death, thought she
+had forgiven his horrid barbarity, and was well pleased to see
+her nigh him.
+
+As they emerged from the deeper glades of the wood, a volume of
+smoke rose above the trees; and upon gaining the open ground, the
+whole extent of their danger was revealed to the Caribs. There
+lay their canoes, a burning mass; while the foreground was
+occupied by another band of Englishmen, ready prepared for
+battle. Hemmed in on all sides, the Caribs fought with the fury
+of uncaged beasts, and sold their lives dearly. Many of the
+English were stretched upon the ground, a flattened mass, from
+the blows of their heavy clubs; while others, wounded by their
+poisoned arrows, only lived to endure further torments. Still
+Cuanaboa remained unhurt; and standing upon a gentle knoll,
+brandished his club, and dealt destruction upon the foremost of
+his enemies. His friends were rapidly falling around him; and as
+he turned to seek for refuge, Zulmiera approached him
+unperceived, and with one blow, drove the dirk into his very
+heart.
+
+Without a groan, the Carib chief sank dead upon the earth; and
+Zulmiera, kneeling by him, plucked the weapon from the wound, and
+applying her lips, _drank the warm blood as it gurgled forth!_
+Unbinding the head of the unfortunate Raphe de Merefield from her
+waist, where she had carried it throughout the fray, she gazed
+ardently at it; tenderly parted the still bright hair, imprinted
+a last kiss upon the cold lips, and then taking up in her hand
+some of the vital stream, which was still flowing from the wound
+of Cuanaboa, and forming a pool around him, she bathed the head
+with it, exclaiming as she did so, "Raphe, thou art avenged!
+thine enemy lies dead before thee, slain by my hand; and thy
+bride, faithful in life and death, comes to share thy gory bed."
+
+These actions completed, she looked up. The dying and the dead
+lay stretched around her,--the conquering English were looking to
+their captives,--the last gleam of the fire was shooting upwards
+to the sky,--the moon had gained her zenith,--while, as if in
+contrast to that bloody field, the waters of the creek rolled on
+like molten silver, beneath her lovely beams. For one moment the
+wild but beautiful girl gazed upon the scene; old remembrances
+sprang up in her mind, and brought the tear into her eye. But
+dashing them away, she regained her former implacable mood; and
+as a party of the governor's servants came forward to arrest her,
+placing one hand upon her lover's head, she raised with the other
+the dirk--its bright steel glittered for a moment in the moonbeam
+--in the next it was ensheathed in her heart; and she fell a
+corpse upon that dire chief, to whom she owed all her misery.
+
+The scene of this Antiguan tragedy may still be viewed; the creek
+bears the name of "Indian Creek," while the cavern in which they
+held their barbaric meeting is called "Bat's cave." The governor
+retained his office until 1660, when Charles II. was restored to
+the vacant crown; but refusing to acknowledge his sovereign, he
+was superseded, and the vacant post was filled by Major-General
+Poyntz, a royalist, who continued to act as governor until 1663,
+when Lord Francis Willoughby obtained a grant of the island.
+
+The name of Raphe de Merefield (the uncle of the young cavalier)
+appears with that of Sir Thomas Warner in the original grant
+signed by Charles I. It is still to be seen at "Stoney Hill,"--an
+estate belonging to the late Samuel Warner, president of Antigua,
+and a descendent of the old family. This property was willed by
+him to his god-son, ------ Shand, Esq., of the house of Messrs.
+Shand, Liverpool.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+
+
+  Towns: Falmouth--Church and churchyard--Mangroves and acacias--
+  Black's Point--Bridgetown--Willoughby Bay--Its site and
+  decoration--The superintendent of the Wesleyan schools--
+  School-room--Methodist chapel--The Memoras--St Philip's church
+  --Beautiful views--Parham--Its derivation and site--St Peter's
+  church--Churchyard--The new church--Methodist chapel and
+  school-room.
+
+In the year 1675, six towns were appointed in Antigua as places
+of trade--viz., St. John's, Falmouth, Old Road, (or Carlisle
+Road,) Bridgetown, Willoughby Bay, Bermudian Valley, and Parham.
+
+St. John's, as the _capital_ of the island, has already been
+noticed in a chapter by itself, and it now devolves upon me to
+endeavour to describe, what is almost indescribable, the
+arrangement of the other towns, which, with the exception of
+Bermudian Valley, are still in a state of existence.
+
+To commence with Falmouth. As it lies just before the traveller
+gains English Harbour, the road to it is the same already
+mentioned in our journey to that place; and consequently another
+description would be tiresome and superfluous. I must, however,
+remark that near the entrance of the town a pretty turn in the
+road leaves the blank-looking country, which so generally
+predominates between Falmouth and the capital, and leads you into
+a kind of defile; on one side, bordered by rugged banks thickly
+covered with the yellow acacia, and its sweet-scented blossoms;
+and on the other, by the picturesque ascent of Monk's Hill,
+surmounted by all its frowning battlements.[97]
+
+The town of Falmouth is noted for being the first part of the
+island settled upon by the English, who, under the command of Mr.
+Warner, son of Sir Thomas Warner, emigrated from St.
+Christopher's in 1632, and laid out the surrounding country in
+fields of tobacco, cotton, and ginger, which were for some years
+after the staple commodities of Antigua.
+
+Humble as might have been the architectural ornaments of this
+town in those early days, it seems almost an impossibility to
+suppose them less then than they are at present; for if strangers
+(from some of our bustling maritime cities in Europe, for
+instance) were suddenly and unconsciously landed in the streets
+of Falmouth, they would to all certainty believe them to be so
+many pathways to the "castle of indolence;" and the irregular and
+dismal-looking buildings to be the habitations of some lawless,
+vagrant tribe. A few four-cornered houses, in shape like a
+pigeon-coop, and of dimensions to suit a dweller of _Lilliput_,
+are elevated a short distance from the ground by being placed
+upon empty boxes or barrels, or four pillars of rudely-piled
+stones, which arrangement forms a snug retreat for the pigs or
+poultry of the inmate, or serves as a reservoir for sundry
+discarded pots and pans, or other "household gods." These
+habitations are as variously placed as the taste of their owners
+may chance to dictate. Some present an acute angle, others a
+_broadside_ to the eye of passengers. Some stand in what I
+suppose is intended to represent a garden, whose rank weeds and
+straggling vegetables are guarded from the steps of the unwelcome
+marauder only by a _gate_, made from empty candle-boxes or
+barrel-heads, flanked by a thinly sprinkled row of some dwarf
+shrub, over which the gallant "Xit" (whom Mr. Ainsworth has so
+cleverly called into existence in his admirable "Tower of
+London") could have stepped with the greatest ease; letting alone
+the frequent lapses in the enclosure, through which a bulky man
+might readily pass. To make all secure, however, these rustic
+gates are generally garnished with a huge padlock, which is of
+course _carefully_ locked whenever the owner is absent; while the
+key, with admirable precaution, is tucked into some little
+peep-hole near, that it may be ready for the use of any stray
+visitants.
+
+A few of these dwellings are, however, of superior form and
+fabric; and one stands forth in all the glories of palisading,
+and if I mistake not, bright green verandahs. It looks, by the
+side of its pigmy neighbours, like the Colossus of Rhodes, to the
+mandarin figures in our English grocers' shops.
+
+The present church, dedicated to St. Paul, is a plain,
+uninteresting-looking building, standing at the outskirts of the
+town, and capable of affording about 400 sittings.
+
+The churchyard might be made as picturesque, and looks as quiet,
+as some of those pretty rural burial-places we oftentimes alight
+upon in dear old England's sequestered nooks. Some fine trees,
+and a few handsome monuments, are to be met with; and if the rank
+grass was cleared away a little, and some of the various
+beautiful flowers, which are to be found in all parts of the
+island, planted there, it would present a spot equalling in
+appearance many of our modern cemeteries.
+
+It may by some be thought folly thus to beautify the place of
+death--to garnish that spot where the worm revels upon the once
+animated clay!--to plant the gladsome, gaily-tinted flowers where
+all is mouldering beneath! Be it so--yet would I see the flowers
+blooming over the grave of those I have loved, and while seated
+near, feel that the bitterness of death is past, and that their
+happy disembodied spirits range, free from all sorrows, amid the
+amaranthine bowers of heaven! Like the late talented and
+oft-lamented "L. E. L.," I love to frequent the scene of our last
+resting-place--like her, to--
+
+   "Stand beneath the haunted yew,
+    And watch each quiet tomb;
+    And in the ancient churchyard feel
+    Solemnity, not gloom.
+
+    The place is purified with hope--
+    The hope that is of prayer;
+    And human love, and heavenward thought,
+    And pious faith are there.
+
+    The golden cord which binds us all
+    Is loosed, not rent in twain;
+    And love, and hope, and fear unite,
+    To bring the past again."
+
+The parochial school is held in a small house near the church. It
+is conducted upon the same plan as the other schools of the kind
+in Antigua; the instruction consisting of lessons in reading,
+writing, arithmetic, repetition of catechism and hymns, and
+plain-work for the girls.
+
+St. Paul's has a chapel-of-ease in English Harbour; which was, in
+truth, a private dwelling-house, but now, disencumbered of its
+partitions, serves as a chapel, and is capable, it is said, of
+affording accommodation for 350 persons; during the week, it is
+appropriated to the use of an infant school.
+
+The whole of Falmouth is thickly studded with clumps of acacia,
+privet, and prickly pear; all of which are of the _thorny
+family_, and if report be true, serve the inhabitants instead of
+pins. Between Falmouth and English Harbour lies a marshy thickly
+covered with sand, and dotted about with groups of
+mangrove-trees, in all their glittering, green foliage, forming
+so many _oases_ in the midst of a burning desert. The sea
+overflows this spot at times, and leaves its tribute in the shape
+of small shells and bunches of sea-weed.
+
+Opposite to Falmouth, looking across the waters of the harbour, a
+bold promontory stretches out into the ocean, to which has been
+given the name of "Black's Point." As it belongs to a gentleman
+of that name, it is generally supposed in Antigua, to derive its
+cognomen from that cause. Such supposition is, however,
+incorrect, for it is laid down in an old chart of the island as
+"Black's Point" long before its present possessor came into
+existence. The real origin of its bearing that appellation is
+from the fact of its having been the place where it was customary
+to land the cargoes of newly-imported negroes, prior to the
+abolition of the slave trade; and from this circumstance the name
+it now bears was given to it.
+
+Falmouth Harbour is considered one of the best in Antigua, and is
+capable of affording safe anchorage for ships in those times of
+danger to which the West Indies are exposed. The shores of the
+bay boast their silver fringe of sand, which is often selected by
+the parent turtle, as a place of safety, in which to deposit her
+two or three hundred eggs; and when the sun has performed the
+duties of incubation, which the lethargic mother refuses to
+perform, numbers of these little creatures may be seen, crawling
+towards their favourite element, where they feast and fatten,
+until, perhaps, in after-years, they are doomed to increase the
+table store of some Antiguan _gourmand_, or, perchance, find
+their way to England, and tickle the palate of "the lord mayor,
+and the other city authorities" within the sound of Bow bells.
+
+Old Road (or Carlisle Road, as it was once called) and St. Mary's
+church having been already described, in our "pilgrimage to Tom
+Moore's Spring," it remains for me, in the next place, to mention
+Bridgetown, or Willoughby Bay, as it is more frequently termed.
+Here, again, I have the task of describing, what is almost _a
+nondescript_, for no stranger would ever discover that it was a
+town unless the fact were pointed out to him. If the man who
+painted a lion was obliged to write under it, "This is a lion," I
+am sure the person who huddled the three or four houses together,
+which constitutes Bridgetown, had need to have put upon a
+giant-like placard, "This is a town!" unless, indeed, a rather
+good-looking Methodist chapel, a small mission-house, a stone
+dwelling-house, with school-room attached, and a few of my
+_four-cornered_ friends, stuck in here and there, like the dots
+in a landscape of some country painter, to represent _crows_, be
+sufficient to merit for it that lofty title, which Dr. Johnson,
+or some other lexicographer of equal renown, leads us to suppose
+signifies "a large collection of houses."
+
+As regards the population of this _town_, (I like to give places
+their proper names,) I can give but little information. With the
+exception of the very kind-hearted superintendant of the Wesleyan
+schools, Mr. Charles Thwaites, and his equally amiable wife,
+their very pretty little boy, one or two domestics, and their
+scholars of every shade, the only inhabitants I saw were flocks
+of black-headed gulls, busily employed in following their
+piscatory avocations; a few half-starved looking sheep, vainly
+endeavouring to screen themselves from the fiery beams of the sun
+beneath the leafless branches of some blighted shrubs; and three
+or four long-necked, screaming birds, known in this part of the
+world as gorlings, and which derive their subsistence from the
+same source as their neighbours, the gulls.
+
+After resting for a short time at the superintendant's dwelling,
+we proceeded to the school-room, a most commodious apartment,
+measuring 50ft. by 48ft., and capable of containing 500 persons.
+The whole of this establishment, including the superintendant's
+house, which is detached, was erected by the Church Missionary
+Society; but after being used by them for a short time, it was
+turned over to the "Ladies' Society," to whom it still belongs,
+although the Wesleyan Mission holds its school there.
+
+The school-room was but thinly attended upon the day of our
+visit, there not being more than 40 children--the usual number is
+about 100. Upon our entrance, they all rose up with "We'll make
+our obeisance together, as children ought to do," and then,
+quitting their raised seats, formed into double lines, their
+teacher at their head, and marched round the apartment to the
+tune of one of their infant rhymes. After performing many
+martial-like evolutions, they finally arranged themselves into a
+deep phalanx, and thus sang another of their little songs. Many
+of them are proficients in reading the scriptures, and are well
+versed in the historical parts of them. I hope and trust the
+education so liberally bestowed upon them, and above all, the
+religious instruction which they receive, may benefit their
+after-conduct, and lead them to do their duty in that sphere of
+life in which it has pleased their Creator to place them. I was
+much pleased to learn from Mr. Thwaites that, in almost every
+instance, the pupils who have left the schools under his charge
+have followed agricultural employments. To a country whose grand
+resource, and, indeed, entire dependence, is placed upon the
+cultivation of the sugar-cane, this conduct upon the part of its
+rising generation must be very important; and if the lower
+classes continue to do so, and not, because they are free,
+despise the hoe, Antigua may stand forth as pre-eminently
+flourishing among the other West Indian colonies.
+
+Mr. Thwaites is the paid superintendant of all the Wesleyan
+country schools. His salary is 150l. sterling per annum, a small
+recompence (although quite as liberal as the mission can afford)
+for the constant care his responsible situation calls for, and
+which he performs with untiring zeal. For about twenty-nine years
+has this good man been employed in providing for the mental wants
+of the black population, and in endeavouring to lead their young
+minds to the only fount of real knowledge. Unmindful of passing
+events he has kept on his irksome task, (for irksome it must be
+to drive knowledge into the brains of some of these little
+negroes,) buoyed up by his feelings of deep philanthropy.
+
+The first few years of his employment were passed without
+receiving any reward, but the approval of his own conscience. As,
+however, his laudable exertions became known, he was engaged by
+the "Church Missionary Society," whose interests he faithfully
+served for near ten years. Since that period he has been in the
+employ of the Wesleyan mission. Although from being such a
+valuable auxiliary in rearing "the infant mind," and teaching
+"the young idea how to shoot," the bishop would gladly have
+retained his services, provided he gave up all connexion with the
+Methodists.
+
+Mr. Thwaites has under his charge eleven day-schools, with about
+800 scholars; and three Sunday-schools, with about 900 scholars.
+Besides attending these several schools, Mr. Thwaites visits the
+neighbouring estates in the evenings, for the purpose of giving
+the labourers religious instruction, and guarding his elder
+pupils, or those who have left his schools, for the purpose of
+engaging in the avocations customary to their province in life,
+against those temptations to which their age and sex are most
+subject.
+
+It has been remarked in a late publication, (in commenting upon
+events in Antigua) that "after ransacking the whole freed
+population for a dozen suitable teachers of children, Mr.
+Thwaites could not find even that number who could read well."
+Now, this is a great error, _and altogether contradicted by Mr.
+Thwaites himself_. The blacks certainly had not the means of
+improving themselves in former years, as the more fortunate
+generation have had since emancipation; but that the _whole_
+class were so totally ignorant as not to be able to _read_, is
+entirely incorrect. In proof of this, the superintendant pointed
+out to our notice several teachers who were well adapted for
+their employment; one in particular, who, Mr. T. remarked,
+conducted a school consisting of 120 scholars, which he
+instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic, in which last
+branch of education many of his pupils had attained to "Practice"
+and "Vulgar Fractions."
+
+The salaries of these paid teachers (of which there are
+seventeen, the remainder giving their services without any
+recompence) are very small--not more than from three to four
+dollars (12s. and 16s. sterling) per month. They are paid by the
+"Ladies' Negro Education Society," and other benevolent societies
+in England, who also defray the other expenses of the schools,
+with the exception of the superintendent's salary, which is
+provided by the Wesleyan mission. The children, who receive
+instruction in writing, cyphering, and needlework, pay a small
+pittance, which is placed in the school fund.
+
+There is a very neat and excellent little library attached to the
+Willoughby-Bay school, where the works of "Abbott," "Sherwood,"
+"Pike," and various other pious authors, are open to the use of
+all, besides treatises upon geography, history, and experimental
+philosophy. The lighter works, such as Mrs. Sherwood's pretty,
+and often affecting, little narratives, are read, Mrs. Thwaites
+informed me, with avidity by the negroes, to which intelligence
+their well-thumbed covers gave a tacit assent. Around the
+schoolroom were hung various cards, with texts of scripture
+printed upon them in large characters, that "such who run may
+read"--a practice I greatly admire, for turn whichever way you
+will, some goodly sentence meets your eye.
+
+In the neat little yard attached to Mr. Thwaites' dwelling, we
+met with some old friends of mine--a small wooden hive of "busy
+bees." A pane of glass inserted into the box gave us a view of
+the industrious little creatures building their waxen cells, in
+which to store their fragrant food; but the weather was against
+them--the long drought had withered the flowers, and thus
+curtailed their stock of honey. There are very few bee-hives to
+be met with in Antigua. This is rather strange, as all Creoles
+are noted for having a "sweet tooth," and consequently honey is
+reckoned a luxury. It cannot be from want of proper food, that
+the labours of these little insects are discountenanced, for
+Nature has been most prodigal of her stores to Antigua, and
+clothed her every hill and dale with melliferous blossoms.
+
+I have heard of one gentleman, however, who was very anxious to
+establish an apiary upon his property in Antigua, and accordingly
+he obtained some choice hives, which in due time were safely
+deposited in his well-stocked garden. Soon after their arrival,
+however, business called him from the island, and he committed
+his valued bees to the care of his overseer, a true son of
+Hibernia, with an expressed hope, "that they would not wander
+from home." The day after his departure, the overseer, wishful of
+obliging his employer, stole from his multitudinous duties a
+sufficient time to watch the movements of his buzzing charge. The
+bright sun drew them from their hives, and jocund in their little
+hearts, away they bounded on the balmy zephyr. Innumerable
+flowers dazzled their eyes, and courted their attention. Here the
+gorgeous _hybiscus_ spread out its glowing bosom--there the
+blushing _frangipanne_ loaded the air with its rich fragrance. At
+one moment they inserted their trunks into the sweet-scented cup
+of the jasmine; at the next, and they brushed the pearly dew from
+the brilliant radii of the passion-flower. Onward they flew,
+allured by flowerets of every colour, each one as
+
+   "Fair as the fabulous Asphodels;"
+
+until at length, to the dismay of the overseer, they were lost to
+sight! He was no naturalist: he had never studied "R�aumur" upon
+the "habits of bees," and as the last straggler disappeared, he
+thought "Well! Mr. ------ hoped they would not wander from home,
+but by St. Patrick they're all gone, and if they ever come back
+is a query." However, as nothing could be done, he was obliged to
+leave them to their fate; and in a rather disconsolate mood, "he
+turned and left the spot."
+
+Hours wore away,
+
+   "The evening came, the sun descended,"
+
+and the truant insects returned to their hive, to the great joy
+of the observant overseer. "Ah! ah!" said he, as they alighted,
+heavily laden with their luscious store, "a pretty trick you have
+played me to-day; but by my patron saint, I will take care of you
+to-morrow." He watched until they were all safe housed; and then
+with hurried steps, and self-congratulatory hitches of the
+shoulders, he sought the spot where masons had been lately
+working. Providing himself with some of the soft mortar, he again
+visited the apiary; and with ready will, and determined purpose,
+applied to the opening of each hive a sufficient quantum of the
+cement, so as to effectually forbid the egress of any bee. It is
+almost needless to mention, that upon the return of the
+gentleman, whose absence had been protracted, he found his
+favourite insects defunct; nor need I animadvert upon the
+vexation his overseer's management of an apiary caused him.
+
+To resume my subject--which the bees, and their untimely fate,
+drove from my head: after inspecting the school, and expressing
+our gratification, we proceeded to visit the Methodist chapel, a
+stone's throw from the school-room. It is a plain wooden
+building, measuring 45 feet by 60 feet, and capable of containing
+900 sittings. The burying-ground is attached, and serves as the
+place of interment for the whole town, and some part of the
+adjoining country. Adjacent to the chapel is the mission-house, a
+neat little domicile for such an extraordinary-looking place as
+Bridgetown.
+
+There is nothing interesting about Willoughby Bay. No glittering
+white sand, or clear blue water with its dazzling surf to be
+seen. A line of blighted, sickly-looking bushes shuts out the
+sight of the beach; and the part of the bay which greets our eyes
+looks gloomy and discoloured, as if from lurking reefs and
+shoals. Upon the opposite side of the bay, looking across the
+water, lies the Memoras, a long ridge of rocks, over which the
+sea rushes with tremendous force, and with a deafening noise,
+which may be heard at a considerable distance. Upon a still day,
+the angry moan of the waves can be clearly distinguished at
+Bridgetown. Willoughby Bay derives its name from Francis Lord
+Willoughby, who in 1663 was made Lord Proprietor of the whole
+island, by a grant from Charles II.[98]
+
+St. Philip's, the parish church, is situated upon an ascent, at
+some distance from Bridgetown, and commands one of the finest
+views to be met with in any part of the country. The eye ranges
+with delight over sloping hills and open glades; wood-crowned
+mountains, and silent valleys. Sugar plantations, in all the
+beauty of high cultivation, spread out their fields of rich and
+wavy green beneath our feet, interspersed with groups of simple
+negro huts, almost hid in their leafy enclosures; while on all
+sides, the ocean stretched out its interminable blue waters. It
+was a lovely day when we visited the spot,--
+
+   "The whispering winds were half asleep,
+    The clouds were gone to play,
+    And on the woods, and on the deep,
+    The smiles of heaven lay.
+
+    It seem'd as if the day was one
+    Sent from beyond the skies,
+    Which shed to earth above the sun,
+    A light of paradise."
+
+Of the first church dedicated to St. Philip no account can be
+given; but most probably it was built about the year 1690. The
+second church to that saint was erected about 1717. It was a
+wooden building, and no doubt possessed but little claim to
+architectural beauty. The present church is one of the prettiest
+I have seen in the West Indies. It is built of the smooth
+freestone, so generally found in Antiguan quarries; the only
+fault is, that they are cut too small, which, at a distance,
+gives them more the appearance of white bricks.
+
+The plan, like many of the other Antiguan churches, is cruciform;
+but there is so much chasteness displayed in the simple
+arrangement of the interior, that it must please every eye. The
+large oriel window is furnished with ground-glass, of the most
+elegant, yet simple devices; and the neat pulpit and desk,--the
+altar, gallery, and pulpit rails,--the wooden columns which
+support the roof,--the pews and doors, painted in excellent
+representation of rich-grained oak, please by their uniformity.
+They are in the gothic style. The decorations of the altar are
+very plain, merely consisting of the tables of the Commandments,
+the Lord's Prayer, and the Creed.
+
+Leaving the town of Bermudian Valley (of which I think there is
+scarcely a relic) "alone in its glory," we come to Parham, the
+remaining place of trade appointed during the time Col. Rowland
+Williams held the deputy-governorship of Antigua. Parham takes
+its name from the title of Lord William Willoughby of Parham. In
+1697, after the decease of Christopher Codrington, Esq., (the
+elder,) Parham appears to have been the residence of the
+lieutenant-governor, in preference to St. John's; and this
+circumstance gives rise to the statement of some authors, that
+Parham was once the capital of the island. It is another of those
+strangely straggling places whose streets are in many parts
+bordered with dagger (_aloe vulgaris_) instead of houses; but
+still it is far superior to Bridgetown, for some of its edifices
+boast of covered galleries, or balconies, flights of stone steps,
+and many other decorations.
+
+The parish church of St. Peter's, the second of the name, is an
+old dismal looking building, whose outward appearance is enough
+to give the observer a fit of that fashionable complaint,
+dyspepsia. It was erected in 1754, and affords 300 sittings. St.
+Peter's has a chapel-of-ease, the private property of the Rev.
+Nat. Gilbert, a descendant of the "founder of Methodism" in
+Antigua, who was speaker of the house of assembly in 1764.
+
+From some strange freak, or else from dire necessity, Parham
+churchyard is situated at about two miles distance from the
+church and town. It was formerly surrounded by a brick wall, but
+that is all falling to ruin. A more desolate-looking
+burying-ground I never saw--not a tree or flower near it; the
+very birds in their aerial wanderings seem to shun the spot.
+
+At a short distance from St. Peter's is fast rising into
+existence what will prove, when finished, a very neat and pretty
+church. It is an irregular octagonal--that is, the sides are not
+of equal dimensions. It is built of the same kind of stone as St.
+Philip's; but has a better effect, from the blocks being cut of
+larger size. The base of the tower is constructed from the
+interior; but in its present unfinished state, (1842) with all
+its multiplicity of scaffolding and frame work, it is impossible
+to say what will be the effect; except, as I have before
+remarked, it will no doubt make a pretty appearance when
+completed. The architect is an Englishman, and the head mason (a
+black man) appears to be well-versed in the mysteries of his
+trade, to judge from the excellent smoothness in the joints of
+the walls, and from a very neat key-stone which he has
+sculptured. This church is intended to take the name and service
+from the old one, which will then be dismantled.
+
+Besides the episcopal church, Parham boasts a very neat little
+chapel belonging to the Wesleyans, with a good stone
+mission-house and school-room adjoining. The general number of
+scholars at this school is seventy, including girls and boys;
+although upon our visit to it, there were not more than
+thirty-five. The school-room is a very airy and commodious
+building, capable of containing 600 or 700 persons. The children
+which compose the school are of every age, from three to
+fourteen. The instruction given them is plain, but good--
+scriptural knowledge, reading, spelling, writing, and arithmetic,
+with needlework for the girls. There are no pictorial
+embellishments in this school-room, merely a few selections from
+the Scriptures, cards of multiplication, and some black-painted
+boards upon which the children practise their little sums with a
+piece of chalk.
+
+The Wesleyan missionary stationed at Parham, the Rev. Mr.
+Keatley, (who appears to be a very amiable man,) mentioned as a
+well-known fact, that the schools in the country were always
+better attended the three first days in the week, and that after
+that period very few children made their appearance. Probably
+this is owing to their parents employing them in some domestic
+business which is more necessary at the close than at the
+beginning of the week.
+
+Parham harbour, although it affords safe anchorage when gained,
+is dangerous to the inexperienced navigator from the number of
+shoals and reefs which encumber its approach. It also contains
+some few islands, of which Bethel's Island is the largest. This
+harbour is protected from the inroads of the enemy by Port Byam,
+erected upon Barnacle Point, and which derives its name from
+Colonel Edward Byam, some-time governor of Antigua. It is said
+that within the precincts of this fort, Colonel Byam had a small
+room erected, where he was in the habit of receiving and
+entertaining a party of Caribs, who came yearly from some of the
+neighbouring islands, in order to smoke their calumets of peace
+with that gentleman.
+
+To the southward of Parham rises a curious hill, which is
+supposed to be the work of art, and to have answered for the
+burying-place of the ancient inhabitants, the Caribs. An old
+writer speaking of this tumulus, describes it as "in form a long
+square, very regular in all its parts, lessening gradually from
+its base to the top, which is flat, and may be from five to six
+hundred feet long, and from forty to fifty feet high."
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[97] From the summit of Monk's Hill, the eye can range over the
+whole island of Antigua, with the exception of one part, where
+the mountains intervene. The principal work, named Fort George,
+is mounted with pieces of cannon, said to have been taken in the
+"Foudroyant" man-of-war, in one of the many conflicts between the
+French and English.
+
+[98] For the genealogy, and a general account of this family, see
+Appendix.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+
+
+  Forts and fortifications--Temporary ones--The present forts--
+  Fort James--Its situation and approach--Rat Island Battery, its
+  appellation, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff--Goat Hill--Steep
+  ascent--Schools in St. John's.
+
+It might be imagined that where nature has done so much for her
+favourite isle in the way of barricading it, by giving to Antigua
+a bold rocky coast, _art_, in the shape of forts and batteries,
+would be less called for. This, however, is not the case; the
+island coaster meets with many an embattled point, and many a
+sea-girt cliff supports the frowning walls of a battery.
+
+The forts in Antigua are Fort James, Rat Island Battery, Goat
+Hill or Fort Barrington, Old Fort, Johnston's Point Fort, Old
+Road Fort, Falmouth Fort, Fort Black's Point, Fort Charlotte and
+Fort Berkley at the entrance of English Harbour, Fort Christian,
+Fort Isaac, Fort William, Fort Harman, Flat Point Fort, Old Fort,
+and Fort Byam; Parham Harbour, Dickenson's Point Battery,
+Corbison's Fort, and Fort Hamilton. Of these, the greater part
+were merely temporary fortifications erected in those days of
+warfare when the French and Caribs, in their shallops and
+perrigoas, used to make such frequent attacks upon the island.
+Still, dismantled as many of these forts became in after-years,
+when peace spread her soft pinions over the lovely group of the
+Antilles, they retained their _names_, and served as sinecures to
+those persons who, from favouritism or superannuation, were
+exempted from militia duty, prior to the abolition of that body
+during the administration of Sir W. Colebrooke.[99]
+
+The fortifications at present in use are, Fort James, Rat Island
+Battery, Goat Hill, Fort George, Fort Johnston's Point, Old Road
+Fort, Monk's Hill, and the forts at English Harbour.
+
+Fort James was erected about the year 1704-5, on a spot of ground
+known as St. John's Point, which was given to his majesty Charles
+II., by Col. James Vaughan, in 1680. It is situated at the
+entrance of St. John's Harbour, and commands at once a beautiful
+and extensive view, while, from its frowning battlements, a
+deadly and raking fire could be poured upon the adventurous enemy
+who dared its anger. The rock upon which it is built appears to
+overhang the sea; and the waves, from constantly fretting and
+foaming around its base, have completely undermined it. If all
+proper precautions be not taken, the fort and its accompaniments
+will, some day, probably make a rapid descent into the yawning
+gulf beneath, and its avenging weapons no longer vomit forth
+their flaming breath upon the dauntless vessel who dares to pass
+it, without tendering to its captain his expected dole.[100]
+
+Fort James mounts but few guns, the rest are making themselves
+beds deep in the earth. This is one of the happy results of
+peace. Those murderous weapons repose in quietness, and that they
+may ever do so is my fervent prayer. A gun, however, is fired at
+sunrise and sunset; and her majesty's ships, as well as vessels
+of war belonging to other nations, are complimented with a grand
+discharge. The arrival and departure of the governor, members of
+council, &c., also call for a similar mark of honour. Serious
+accidents sometimes occur at such periods. A few months ago one
+of the matrosses had his arm so severely shattered by overloading
+the instrument when saluting a French man-of-war, that it became
+necessary to amputate the limb immediately. He has now happily
+regained his former health, and is employed upon the fort as a
+schoolmaster.
+
+The captain of Fort James receives 150l. sterling per annum, and
+the residence is one that many would gladly inhabit. Under him
+are stationed twelve matrosses, who receive very good pay. For
+the use of these last-mentioned persons, a temporary chapel has
+been established within these last few years, through the
+instrumentality of the Rev. John Horsford, Wesleyan missionary,
+son to the former governor of the fort, by which happy means they
+are enabled to attend Divine service once on the Lord's day.
+
+The road from the capital to Fort James, a distance of about four
+miles, is not very noted for the interest it displays. As the
+traveller nears the fort, an arm of the sea runs far inland,
+twisting and twining its rippling waters amid the clumps of
+aquatic shrubs in a most snake-like manner. Through this,
+equestrians and pedestrians, the emblazoned carriage, and the
+more humble gig, alike have to pass, while shoals of fairy-like
+fish dart from their parent waters in all directions; and as the
+sunbeams catch their silvery scales, almost blind the looker-on
+with their dazzling coruscations.
+
+Rat Island Battery is of itself a most picturesque object, as the
+stranger approaches Antigua. It lies within the harbour of St.
+John's, and takes its name from some fancied resemblance to that
+most destructive little quadruped, a rat. I cannot say this
+isapparent to my eyes, but the believers in such a similitude say
+that the rock personates the body of the animal, while the
+causeway which connects it to the main land plays the part of a
+tail. I have already mentioned the lunatic asylum lately erected
+upon this rock, whose whitened walls look cheerfully down upon
+the waters beneath, and little tells the observer how many
+darkened minds wander within them. The flag-staff upon Rat Island
+is often gaily decorated with various flags, and with a beating
+heart my eyes have often sought it, for there I learn the tidings
+that another packet has arrived from my native land, and, as I
+hope, brought me one of those little packages traced with "a grey
+goose-quill," and telling that those who are so dear to me are
+enjoying health and happiness in Old England.
+
+Goat Hill crowns the summit of a lofty hill upon the opposite
+side of the harbour to Fort James. When passing it by sea, our
+surprise is excited when we consider how it is possible to
+transport the heavy artillery and stores up the steep ascent; but
+the road is winding, and the difficulty is much sooner overcome
+than would be supposed. It was on the site of this fort that the
+French landed, in that memorable attack upon, and reduction of,
+the island in 1666. Near the base of Goat Hill, two peculiar
+shaped and blackened rocks rear their bare heads above the sea,
+around which the waves dash their lustrous foam with loud and
+angry moanings. The remaining forts, with the salaries of their
+several captains, and the means by which they are paid, will be
+found in the statistical portion of this work.
+
+From the forts, I proceed to mention the "Mico Charity" School at
+St. John's, where instruction is given in various branches of
+knowledge. Upon my visit to this school, I must say I was
+surprised to find among the dirty ragged little negroes, which
+comprised it generally, a herd of geographers, historians, and
+grammarians. The head-master happened to be absent, but a
+messenger was immediately despatched to call him; and, upon his
+arrival, the examination commenced, which I left entirely to
+themselves, wishing to see their own mode of tuition.
+
+The room, or rather rooms, were hung round with various pictorial
+embellishments, consisting of some very beautiful lithographed
+designs, representing the most interesting and affecting scenes
+in the Old and New Testament--birds and animals, fruits and
+flowers, steam apparatuses, machinery of all descriptions, modes
+of every branch of agriculture, and some excellent maps.
+
+A stand was placed in the middle of the apartment, and a boy of
+about twelve or thirteen took his station by the side of it, with
+the "wand of office" in his hand. It was now announced by the
+master--"Those boys who wish to ask questions, please hold up
+their hands," when immediately about eight or ten, of the same
+age as the one stationed in the middle of the room, replied by
+the motion required, while an air of animation sprang to their
+eyes, and lightened the dusky hue of their complexions. The first
+question was proposed by a boy, black as the late member of
+parliament's celebrated blacking, but whose scanty habiliments
+bore many a mark from the finger of time, and many a stain upon
+their once fair colour. "Who was Hannibal?" Answer, from the boy
+near the stand--"A Carthaginian general, who defeated the Romans
+in two engagements."
+
+It was now his turn to propound--"How is the true situation of
+any place upon the globe shewn?" Answer, from an
+intelligent-looking little mongrel boy, who was in such haste to
+reply, that it called for the aid of the master to render his
+rapid utterance understood--"By the intersection of that
+imaginary circle, which we call a parallel of latitude, with the
+meridian of the place in question." Having replied to this query,
+he asked the boy at the stand--"Who was the first Roman emperor
+that visited England, then called Britain, and in what year?"
+
+This was a puzzler. He could not answer to it; so he lost his
+conspicuous station, which was occupied by the more fortunate
+querist.
+
+Various other questions were then proposed in history and
+chronology; after which, an examination in the Old and New
+Testaments commenced--the interrogatories being still propounded
+by the boy: "Who was the man that climbed up into the tree, to
+see Jesus pass?" "Zaccheus."--"Where did Moses die?" inquired a
+pretty little girl. "On Mount Pisgah," was the answer. A tall,
+rather grim-looking boy, started up, and, in a sepulchral-toned
+voice, asked--"What is the difference between Pisgah and Nebo?"--
+"Nebo appears to have been a point, or pinnacle, of Mount
+Pisgah," replied a shrimpish boy by his side.
+
+An excellent map of the world was then brought, and attached to
+the stand in the middle of the apartment, so that the eyes of the
+whole school could rest upon it. The greater and lesser circles
+were then pointed out, the meaning of longitude and latitude
+defined, the form and divisions of the earth mentioned and
+descanted upon, and the sun's path through the ecliptic
+described.
+
+The question was then proposed to the school--"Would you like to
+sing?"--"Yes," from every lip. "You must promise to sing very
+soft and sweet," quoth the master. "Soft and sweet," reverberated
+from the whole of the scholars, like the tongue of an echo. Then
+came the "soft and sweet," as they termed it; and if the _burden_
+of a song could give _melody_ to the lips, it would have been
+more sweet than "the breath of the south wind upon a bed of
+violets," as Avon's favoured bard once sang; for it was all about
+our dear little Queen Victoria. To the tune of this loyal ditty
+they marched round the room, each class divided by their several
+teachers, carrying a pile of books, and then formed into
+semicircles, to be exercised in reading, writing, arithmetic,
+spelling, and grammar. Their spelling was very fair; many of them
+wrote a good hand; they all appeared conversant with the four
+first rules of arithmetic; and as for grammar, they talked about
+present tenses, and perfect participles, nouns, adverbs, and
+conjunctions, definites and indefinites, until I began to think
+they must have been born with a "Lindley Murray" in their mouths.
+I wish I could speak as well of their reading; but I suppose boys
+who talk about Hannibal and Artaxerxes, ecliptics and globular
+projections, and descant upon the merit of tenses, esteem it too
+common-place to read correctly words of two or three syllables.
+
+The average number of boys and girls attending this school is
+from 140 to 160; although, from the prevalence of the measles
+upon my visit, there were not more than half that number there.
+Young men are also received in this establishment as candidates
+for teachers; 100 of whom have, within these last four years,
+been disseminated throughout the schools in Antigua, and some of
+the other West India Islands, as fully qualified for instructing
+the rising generation in all the necessary branches of education.
+
+After experiencing the erudition of these advanced scholars, we
+passed into another part of the establishment appropriated to the
+use of the infant school. Here we found about sixty little
+creatures, two or three, to eight or ten years of age, seated
+upon their benches, raised one above the other--the elder ones
+occupying the upper tier.
+
+This apartment was also garnished with its pretty prints and
+Brobdignagian alphabets, and possessed its coloured maps and
+stands. The exercises were conducted in a similar manner as those
+in the other part of the seminary: an intelligent-looking little
+black boy taking his place by the centre stand, beside the map of
+Palestine, and answering very fluently the various questions
+proposed to him by the other children, at the same time pointing
+out the places. "Where did Jesus turn water into wine?" asked one
+of the little girls. "Cana, in Galilee."--"Who got his cedars
+from Lebanon?"--"Solomon," &c. They then sang one of their pretty
+little songs, to the tune of which they marched round the room,
+and, formed into classes, read, from a selection of pieces, "Dr.
+Franklin's Whistle." It was too difficult for them, and they
+bungled sadly through it; for although, like the elder pupils,
+they were geographers and historians, they had not made much
+progress in the art of reading. Their lessons over, they sang an
+anthem; and then, after a short prayer offered up by the master,
+the school broke up, and away they started with whoop and song,
+leaving me to ponder in my brain how far their manifold knowledge
+would benefit their after progress through life.
+
+Besides the Wesleyan and Mico schools, Antigua is further
+supplied with "repositories of learning," belonging to the
+established church and the Moravians. Our worthy rector, zealous
+in every good work, has a pleasing little infant-school near the
+rectory, besides schools in various other parts of the town and
+country. The Moravians have large schools at their different
+settlements; and a boys' and girls' school, with infant-school
+attached, adjoining their chapel in St. John's. I visited this
+last-mentioned school twice; but I am unable to speak of the
+acquirements of the scholars--they having been dismissed soon
+after my entrance, upon both occasions. They appear to cultivate
+the art of singing; for I heard them join in Mrs. Hemans' "Better
+Land," to the accompaniment of a small, but very sweet-toned
+organ, played by their superintendent. If I may be allowed to
+judge of the manners of the children, (which, I own, would not be
+quite right,) by those of the female teacher, I should be
+inclined to say, they were far behind any of the other schools I
+have visited in the island; for she appeared totally deficient in
+politeness or agreeable behaviour.
+
+I have thus endeavoured to shew that Antigua abounds in schools--
+the exact number of which will be found in the chapter on
+statistics. I sincerely hope that the benefits arising from them
+may be permanently felt by the lower classes, and that the
+patrons of these schools may reap the reward of their
+philanthropy. There are some sad examples: (sorry am I to be
+compelled to say so!) where, instead of improving, education has
+but tended to lead further into the paths of error; for the very
+passages of Scripture that have been taught them--the doctrines
+of salvation which have been inculcated, these unhappy creatures
+pervert to raise their ungodly mirth. Oh, how do our ears become
+shocked at every turn of the street, at every hour of the day, by
+the language of this class of persons! while that great and holy
+name, "at which every knee shall bow," is bandied about as a
+common interjection.
+
+There are some to be met with among the negroes whose display of
+learning is very ludicrous. We have a servant now living with us
+who often calls up from me an involuntary smile. I heard her
+speaking the other evening to a fellow-servant, whose name is
+Diana. "Diana, my goddess! come here. Let me see, Diana was the
+goddess of _truth_, and Junus the goddess of _sleep_, and so you
+must not tell me a story, or go to sleep!" Diana did not appear
+to comprehend this burst of eloquence, and so her friend went on
+to explain to her, that as "_Airy_ was the ram, and _Callus_ the
+bull, Virgo was a lion, and Quaris was a water-pot;" she must bow
+to her superior knowledge in everything. To this, Diana humbly
+assented with "Ees, Miss Charlotte!" accompanied by a stare of
+amazement. I don't wonder, however, at poor Diana's surprise at
+her friend's knowledge; I am sure she often startles me. Another
+evening, I saw her standing in the yard, with outstretched arms,
+and upturned eyes, gazing upon a bright star, which twinkled
+above, while in a very lackadaisical tone, she exclaimed, "Oh,
+Mars! _invoke_ me by thy rays!"
+
+I hope, however, what I have said in this last page will not
+discountenance those worthy characters who are employed in
+opening the book of knowledge to the eyes of the ignorant. In the
+words of a much-admired writer, "the delightful hope may be
+cherished by him who shall bring his mite for the promotion of
+the Lancastrian system of instruction for giving knowledge to the
+ignorant--the hope that he is providing for the display of a
+genius in works of the highest utility, which might otherwise
+have expended itself in a career of infamous contrivance, long
+operating as a pest to society, terminating in the ignominious
+destruction of the victim of the want of education. And when the
+intimate connexion between _ignorance_ and vice is considered,
+surely all who wish to lessen the sum of the latter will assist
+the endeavours that are now making to plant the tree of knowledge
+amid the desert and deformed waste;--to convert that which is now
+cheerless and blank into a field of profuse beauty teeming with
+the real wealth and strength of nations."
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[99] Several of these forts were sold by the legislature, after
+the conclusion of the war with America.
+
+[100] It has been the custom, although the _law_ does not command
+it, to pay to the captain of this fort 18s. currency, for every
+vessel, no matter what her tonnage, passing from the harbour. As
+there are many owners of small crafts in Antigua, whose pockets
+are not so well provided with this world's wealth, as to enable
+them to fling it abroad upon every occasion, they are glad to
+take advantage of the absence of necessity, and retain for their
+own use the two dollars, which custom or caprice has reserved for
+the commandant, and pass the fort without paying the tribute.
+This conduct is generally resented by despatching after the
+offending vessel an angry message, in the shape of a cannon-shot.
+It appears extraordinary, that such a monstrous and illegal
+proceeding as firing upon the vessels should be permitted, or at
+least tacitly sanctioned by the government.
+
+
+
+
+                        CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+
+
+  Remarks upon the aboriginal Americans--Suppositions of various
+  authors--Caribs--Arrowawks--Ferocity of the Carib--Complexion--
+  Dress--Ornaments--Dreadful revenge--Wars-Chiefs--Severities
+  practised--Feasts--Remarks upon paganism--Anthropophagi--A
+  traveller's tale--The Carib's opinion of death--Religious
+  tenets--Altars--The burning Carib.
+
+It may perhaps be proper to remark, that although this work has
+been entitled, "Antigua and Antiguans," still, as I have
+commenced its history from the period of its first discovery, it
+will be necessary to say something about its ancient inhabitants,
+the Caribs. As it is impossible at this lapse of time, to give
+the history of the individual tribe who peopled this island, I
+have been obliged to gather my information from what the early
+writers have transmitted to posterity, of the habit and customs
+of the entire nation. Consequently, while I am writing of the
+Carib of Antigua, or, as the island was called at that period,
+"Xamayca," I must at the same time allude to those of the other
+islands; only remarking, that ferocious as they all were, the
+Carib of this country seems to have borne the pre-eminence in
+hardy daring and relentless animosity toward their conquerors. In
+the same manner, I have thought proper to give a short account of
+the discovery of America, as antecedent to that of this island;
+and as, in furtherance of my plan, I have introduced Columbus to
+my readers, from his boyhood, it is but right I should trace the
+Caribbean nation from their source. With this apology for trying
+the patience of my readers, while I write of a people whose
+existence is no more, I will proceed with my subject, which I
+hope may neither prove foreign nor unpleasant.
+
+To enter into minute inquiries how America and its contiguous
+islands were _first peopled_, would fill many volumes, the
+opinions of the learned upon this subject being so various. Some
+authors suppose the Americans do not derive their existence from
+the same common parent as the rest of mankind. Others, that they
+are descended from a remnant of the antediluvian world which
+survived the deluge; but this must be erroneous, or how are we to
+understand the sacred historian, when, speaking of that momentous
+circumstance, he says--"And all flesh died that moved upon the
+earth, both of fowl, and of cattle, and of beast, and of every
+creeping thing that creepeth upon the face of the earth, and
+every man. _All_ in whose nostrils was the breath of life, _of
+all that was in the dry land, died!_"--Gen. vii. 21, 22. Again,
+many authors assert that their ancestors came from the north-east
+of Asia, after the dispersion of the people for their impious
+attempt to build the Tower of Babel; and to establish this
+doctrine upon a firmer basis, endeavour to point out the great
+similitude between the Asiatics and the Southern Americans, in
+their manners, customs, and general appearance. Another, and
+perhaps the most probable idea, is, that the _southern_ parts of
+North America, and the islands which lie in the Gulf of Mexico,
+and the Caribbean Sea, were originally peopled by Africans. This
+idea is maintained by various speculations:--as the trade-winds
+blow direct from east to west, a canoe of these savages might
+have been driven by bad weather across the Atlantic; and this
+position may be further proved by the statement of the Indians of
+Florida, who, when asked about their origin, reply, "that their
+ancestors came from the east, and that at the time they
+discovered America, they were nearly dead from want of
+provisions." These Africans, uniting with the different tribes
+with which the other parts of America were peopled, must have
+produced the various degrees of colour and character which
+astonished so much the first discoverers of this extensive
+quarter of the world.
+
+The Caribs, from whom Antigua and the adjoining islands took
+their names, were a very different race of beings from the gentle
+and hospitable inhabitants of Cuba, Jamaica, Hayti, &c., who were
+called Arrowawks, and with whom the Caribs were ever at war. From
+the martial and ferocious spirit of the Caribs, and from their
+repasts upon human flesh, historians agree in supposing they were
+descended from the Africans; while, on the contrary, the
+peacefulness and indolence of the Arrowawks evidently bespeak
+them of an Asiatic origin.
+
+When Columbus visited these islands for the first time, he found
+the inhabitants so very savage, that he was for a while fearful
+of landing; but upon despatching small presents to them, they
+afterwards appeared more friendly, and desirous of an
+acquaintance. In nearly all of their huts were found relics of
+their horrid feasts upon the bodies of their slaughtered enemies;
+and in one of them, a man's arm was roasting for the intended
+meal of the inmates.
+
+The character of the Caribs presents little of what is
+interesting to the imagination; ferocious, superstitious, and
+revengeful, they looked upon all strangers as enemies; and, in
+return, were dreaded as such by the inhabitants of the other
+islands; still they are represented as being, generally,
+peaceable and friendly to one another. They ever retained a high
+sense of equality and independence. Accustomed to be absolute
+masters of their own conduct, they scorned to follow the orders
+of others; and having never known control, they would not submit
+to correction. Many, when they found they were treated as slaves
+by the Spaniards, and that resistance or escape was impossible,
+sought refuge from calamity in the arms of death. While the Carib
+roamed in his native wilds, his reason was but little exercised,
+and consequently, his intellectual powers were very limited. His
+ideas never extended beyond the narrow sphere in which he moved,
+and everything but his present preservation and enjoyment was
+perfectly indifferent to him. When disposed to sleep, no
+consideration on earth would tempt him to sell his bed; but in
+the morning, when satisfied with slumber, and prepared to set out
+on the usual business or recreation of the day, the Carib has
+been known to dispose of it for the smallest trifle which caught
+his fancy. The only thing they deemed of _real_ value, was their
+weapons--consequently, when they found, by sad experience, the
+superiority of fire-arms over the bow and arrows of their own
+country, they viewed them with unbounded admiration; but the
+inventions and improvements of civilized life, with all the arts
+and manufactures of the Spaniards, they regarded with apathy, or
+paid them the same attention as we do the toys of childhood.
+
+Columbus noticed two distinct races of Caribs. One was quite
+black, with hair approaching to woolly; the other, of a deep
+copper colour complexion, with long, straight hair; the latter
+inhabited Antigua and the adjoining islands, while the blacks
+predominated more in the islands further south. In appearance,
+the Caribs were robust and muscular; their limbs flexible and
+active. They ornamented their hair with shells and grease; and
+some of them had it turned up like women, and decorated with thin
+plates of gold, which they procured from the Arrowawks. Their
+garments were composed of cotton cloth, fabricated by their
+females, and which they had the art of staining red, their
+favourite colour; but many of them were in a state of nudity. The
+cartilage of the nostril was perforated, and in it they stuck a
+piece of tortoise-shell, the bone of a fish highly polished, or a
+parrot's feather. They adorned their arms, neck, and ankles, with
+the teeth of their enemies which they had slain in battle, or
+devoured at home. Their bodies were painted in the most hideous
+manner, which appears to have been intended to make them look
+more formidable in the eyes of their enemies than pleasing in the
+sight of their friends. The favourite style of doing this, was
+first to smear a quantity of red paint all over them; they then
+encircled one eye with a streak of white, and the other with one
+of black; they also disfigured their cheeks with deep incisions
+and horrible scars, which they stained with various colours; and
+the greater number and depth of these disfigurations constituted
+their idea of manly beauty, and martial appearance.
+
+Their revenge was deep and implacable--it resembled rather the
+wild fury of a lion than the passion of a man. When anger took
+possession of a Carib's heart, he vented it against everything,
+whether animate or inanimate, which chanced to fall in his way.
+Although in general calm and apparently insensible to pain, if
+struck by an arrow in these moments of rage, like the North
+American Indian, he would tear it from the wound, bite it, spit
+upon it, and, dashing it to the ground, trample it to atoms
+beneath his feet. He never pitied--never forgave--never spared!
+To fall upon an enemy unarmed, knock him down, capture him, and
+finally eat him, was the boast of a Carib warrior! For this they
+were bred up from their youth. To bear with an unflinching spirit
+the most excruciating torments, inflicted by the hands of his own
+father and nearest kin--to suffer all the severities and
+unnatural cruelties which the savage breast was capable of
+imagining without betraying one symptom of weakness--to rise
+superior to pain, and baffle the rage of his persecutors by
+calmness and tranquillity, was the test by which the courage of
+the young Carib was tried. If he succeeded in this, he was looked
+upon as one of the warriors of his country, and pronounced "a man
+like themselves;" while, on the contrary, should one cry escape
+his lips, one supplication for mercy break from him, he was
+despised as a coward, and driven from society.
+
+When an expedition against the Arrowawks was intended, a chief
+was elected, with solemn ceremonies. During the time of peace,
+however, the Caribs appear to have owned no head; they paid,
+indeed, some little veneration to the old men, but this appears
+to have been merely from respect to their age,--at any rate, they
+were not able, by their influence, to protect the weak or the
+stranger. The man who aspired to lead his countrymen to war was
+obliged to undergo the most severe sufferings before he was
+accounted worthy of that honour. If he was successful, upon his
+return he was treated with a grand feast, and was allowed to take
+as many captives for his own share as he liked, and alter his
+name a second time to that of the most formidable Arrowawk who
+had fallen by his hand, while his own people presented for his
+choice the most beautiful of their daughters. Their mode of
+warfare was very different to that of the present day,--they
+thought it no honour to fall fighting for their country. Their
+plan was, not to wait for a drawing up of their forces, but to
+capture all their foes they found unprepared, whom, at the end of
+the war, they carried home, and either slaughtered them for the
+grand feast, or kept them until they became sufficiently plump
+for eating. They preserved the fat of these poor creatures to
+anoint the bodies of their children, in hopes of making them as
+martial as themselves.
+
+Happy for us is it that we live in an age when Paganism, with all
+its accompanying horrors, has given place to the mild doctrines
+of Christianity--when this land, so beautified by the hand of
+Nature, is freed from those barbarous wars, those soul-sickening
+feasts of human flesh, which once polluted it! That man can
+actually devour his fellow-creatures is almost incredible--
+indeed, some persons of philosophical minds have doubted the
+truth of anthropophagy; yet, shocking as it is to the
+imagination, it has been too fully proved to be denied; indeed,
+some of the Caribs, when, in later years, they have been asked
+about this revolting practice, have unhesitatingly answered in
+the affirmative, and even gone so far as to say that Frenchmen
+eat better than Englishmen, and Englishmen better than
+natives.[101] Although, within these last years, so much has been
+effected by the laudable zeal of Christian missionaries, yet,
+even now, there are "dark corners of the earth" where human flesh
+is not only eaten from feelings of revenge, but partook of as a
+luxury.[102]
+
+I read in a periodical, some time ago, a circumstance which may
+be termed a romance of real life. I pretend not to give it in its
+original words, but the tenour of the case is as follows: A
+gentleman was once travelling through the interior of Grenada, or
+Trinidad, I am not certain which, and after riding for some time
+through rocky defiles and umbrageous woods, he at length came to
+an open plain, on which was erected about half a dozen Carib
+huts. Riding up to the door of the principal one, an old man was
+seen reclining upon a rustic seat, who at the approach of the
+stranger arose, and, with much native politeness, invited him to
+alight, and spend the day at his hut. The gentleman, being one
+who was travelling in pursuit of knowledge as well as amusement,
+was well pleased to have the opportunity of becoming a little
+acquainted with the domestic manners of this ancient people.
+After walking about for some time, and making sketches of the
+various beautiful scenes which surrounded the hut, his attention
+was arrested by the plaintive cry of a female. Having a good
+supply of the "milk of human kindness" within his breast, and a
+heart open to the distresses of his species, the traveller
+determined to go in quest of the afflicted fair. Directing his
+steps by the sound of the voice, which appeared to issue from a
+magnificent grove of trees near the spot, he soon came in sight
+of the object of his commiseration, whom he found to be, not a
+fair, but a dark beauty, of sixteen or seventeen years of age.
+Her long black hair floated down her naked shoulders; the tears
+were rolling over her smooth brown cheeks; while her languishing
+dark eyes were turned with mournful looks upon the face of a man,
+who, with knitted brow, was employed in fastening her slender
+wrists to one of the trees. Supposing she had committed some
+fault for which she was about to receive corporal punishment, the
+gentleman begged very earnestly for her pardon; and from the
+smile which passed over the harsh features of the man, he thought
+his request was complied with.
+
+The day passed very rapidly, and our traveller was delighted with
+all he saw. His host was all attention, pointing out to his
+notice whatever he thought would amuse; and when dinner was
+announced, ushered him into his hut with the air of a French
+_petit-maitre_. The dinner table was laid out in the English
+style, in compliment to his guest; and the calabashes which
+contained the water &c. were beautifully carved and stained. The
+first refreshment introduced was soup, which was contained in an
+English tin tureen, that shone like silver; and from the keen air
+of the mountain, and the exercise he had taken, our traveller
+made a very hearty repast upon it. After its removal, and while
+waiting for the other viands, the host asked--"How he liked Carib
+soup?" "Excellent!" said the gentleman--"very delicious--I must
+beg a few receipts from your _cookery book_." "O, it's very
+simple," replied the old Carib, "if you have the proper articles
+to make it of: what you have been eating was made from the hands
+and feet of the girl you were begging for this morning!" What
+were the feelings of the traveller at this horrible information
+can be better imagined than described. The repast he had _shared
+in_, the fate of the poor girl, and his own situation amid a race
+of cannibals, filled him with horror, and almost drove reason
+from her throne. It is almost unnecessary to state that he left
+the scene of bloodshed as soon as possible; and never, never more
+did he think of visiting a Carib, or partaking of _Carib soup_. I
+have given the story as I received it; as to its _authenticity_,
+I will not take upon myself to vouch for it.
+
+With regard to the religious rites and tenets of the Caribs but
+little can be said, for but little is known with any degree of
+truth. They appear to have an idea that death was not a final
+extinction of being; but that the soul (or rather souls, for it
+was the general opinion among them that every pulse that beat in
+their bodies was a _separate_ soul) went to another world, where
+they enjoyed themselves very much after the manner they did in
+this, and that their bows and arrows were as necessary there as
+here. For this reason they buried the weapons in the graves of
+their friends, and inhumed several captives with them, that they
+might have attendants in "the land of spirits." Some authors
+assert that they acknowledged one great universal Cause, to whom
+they gave the name of "Mayboya," who was invisible to them, but
+who watched their actions, and heard their words; that this being
+possessed an irresistible power; and that subordinate to him were
+many other gods. Other writers, however, maintain that the Caribs
+had not even a name for a deity; and that after death they
+believed they decayed away like the animals they were acquainted
+with. Which was the fact is a matter of surmise; but Columbus
+mentions that in several of their huts were seen little altars
+composed of banana leaves and rushes, and that upon these were
+laid offerings of fruit, fish, flowers, &c. It seems probable
+that their religious principles were like those of other savages,
+suggested rather by the dread of impending evils, than gratitude
+for favours received. "We can all forget benefits, although we
+implore mercy," was their motto.
+
+Some of the Caribs pretended to be magicians, and worshipped
+demons with rites and ceremonies of the darkest superstition:
+these people were termed Boyez, and in them was placed implicit
+faith. Upon the discovery of these islands, the Spaniards
+endeavoured to convert the natives to Christianity; but the means
+used to accomplish this were diametrically opposite to what they
+ought to have been. Instead of setting it forth as a doctrine of
+love and mercy, and inculcating its precepts with mildness and
+humanity, they shewed at once the bloody tenets of the church of
+Rome, and condemned those to the stake who did not immediately
+subscribe to their opinions.
+
+This manner of proceeding, instead of converting the Caribs, only
+fixed firmer in their minds their dislike to the intruders; they
+witnessed their quarrels among themselves, their ferocious and
+implacable resentments, their insatiable thirst after gold, and
+the cruelties they perpetrated in searching after that metal. Can
+it be wondered at, then, that they did not believe the
+superiority of the Christian religion, as taught by the
+Spaniards, over their own? or that the rites of baptism, which
+they could not understand or appreciate, were despised by them?
+
+One of these unhappy people being condemned to be burnt for his
+attempts to save his country from the encroachments of its
+conquerors, was promised, by a Roman-catholic priest, admittance
+into heaven if he would only embrace the Christian faith before
+he died. "Are there any Spaniards in that region of bliss you
+tell me of?" inquired the unhappy victim. "Yes," replied the
+priest; "but only such as are good."--"Then I will never go
+there, where I may meet with one of that accursed race; for the
+_best_ of _them_ have neither worth nor goodness." And from the
+cruel treatment these islanders met with, there was but too much
+reason in this exclamation.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[101] Some authors assert that this is only vanity in the French;
+that they think so highly of themselves, that even in the
+_interesting_ point of being eaten, they will not allow the
+pre-eminence to other nations.
+
+[102] "The New Zealanders are perpetually carrying on war with
+each other, to which they are stimulated, not by thirst of
+conquest, but by the desire of eating the flesh of their
+antagonists!"--See Prichard's "Researches."
+
+                         END OF VOL. I.
+
+         T. C. Savill, Printer, 107, St. Martin's Lane.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I
+(of 2), by Anonymous
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I (of 2), by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I (of 2)
+       A full account of the colony and its inhabitants from the
+              time of the Caribs to the present day
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: February 7, 2012 [EBook #38788]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS, VOL I ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Paul Flo Williams
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<h1>ANTIGUA<br/><small>AND THE ANTIGUANS:</small></h1>
+
+<p class="cent"><small><small>A FULL ACCOUNT OF<br/>
+THE COLONY AND ITS INHABITANTS<br/>
+FROM THE TIME OF THE CARIBS<br/>
+TO THE PRESENT DAY,<br/>
+Interspersed with Anecdotes and Legends.<br/>
+<br/>
+ALSO,<br/>
+<br/>
+AN IMPARTIAL VIEW OF SLAVERY AND THE<br/>
+FREE LABOUR SYSTEMS;<br/>
+THE STATISTICS OF THE ISLAND,<br/>
+AND BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF THE PRINCIPAL FAMILIES.<br/>
+<br/>
+“Sworn to no party, of no sect am I.”​—​Pope.<br/>
+<br/>
+                IN TWO VOLUMES.<br/>
+                       VOL. I.<br/>
+<br/>
+                        LONDON<br/>
+               SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET.<br/>
+                              1844.</small></small></p>
+
+<div id="dedication" class="chapter">
+<p class="cent"><a id="piii" class="pagenumber"></a>TO THE<br/>
+
+            HON<sup style="font-size:50%">BLE</sup> ROWLAND EDWARD WILLIAMS,<br/>
+<br/>
+          <small>LATE CAPTAIN IN THE 10th REGIMENT OF HUSSARS,<br/>
+         ONE OF HER MAJESTY’S PRIVY COUNCIL IN ANTIGUA,<br/>
+<br/>
+                    THE LINEAL DESCENDANT OF<br/>
+           THE FIRST WHITE CHILD BORN IN THAT ISLAND,<br/>
+        AND THE FRIEND AND BENEFACTOR OF ITS INHABITANTS<br/>
+                    OF EVERY HUE AND COLOUR,</small><br/>
+<br/>
+                           This Work,<br/>
+<br/>
+            <small>DESCRIPTIVE OF ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,<br/>
+                   IS, BY HIS KIND PERMISSION,<br/>
+                            INSCRIBED<br/>
+              BY HIS FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED SERVANT,</small></p>
+
+<p class="signature">THE AUTHOR.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="preface" class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a id="pv" class="pagenumber"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<p class="init">Although in the present day the writing of a preface may be
+considered almost a work of supererogation on the part of an
+author, since it is that portion of a work seldom or ever looked
+into, still, as custom demands the form, and there may be some
+among my readers who may desire to learn what first led me to
+undertake this work, I am induced to follow the fashion, more
+especially as on one or two points I am desirous of offering a
+few words of comment and explanation.</p>
+
+<p>Not being a native of the West Indies, and visiting that part of
+the world for the first time at an age when all looks bright
+around us, the novelty of the scenes which passed before my eyes
+struck me forcibly, and induced me to make notes of the
+impressions I then received. Pursuing the same practice at
+subsequent visits, and during prolonged residences, in process of
+time my memoranda expanded to a considerable bulk. The increasing
+interest I took in everything relating to Antigua, led me to
+inquire into its early history, and to search out the origin of
+the numerous ancient families whose descendants have resided in
+the island from the period of its colonization.</p>
+
+<p><a id="pvi" class="pagenumber"></a>Some of my friends in the island who had become acquainted with
+my pursuits, were gratified by the specimens of my labours, which
+were exhibited to them, and urged me to throw my scattered notes
+into form. I yielded to their solicitations, and the result has
+been the following pages, which, while they afford a condensed
+history of the colony from its earliest days, present also a
+record of the impressions produced on one, at first, fresh from
+English society, but now, by long continued residence, become
+almost an Antiguan; having, it is hoped, lost all relics of
+English prejudice, but not become so biassed by her new
+connexions, or blinded by the many charms of Antigua or Antiguan
+society, as to hold the scales of justice unevenly.</p>
+
+<p>Having been resident in Antigua both before and after the passing
+of the Emancipation Act, and having had ample opportunity of
+judging of the practical effects of that memorable event, the
+observations I have made with relation to it may not be
+considered altogether unimportant.</p>
+
+<p>In perusing the early history of the colony, the English reader
+may be surprised to find how many men of family became early
+settlers in the West Indies; but when the eager spirit of
+adventure which immediately followed the enterprises of the
+Spaniards, and was so eminently conspicuous in the days of
+Elizabeth, is called to mind​—​when the causes which drove the
+“pilgrim fathers” forth are recollected, together with the
+numerous emigrations which took place from England, when the
+Royalists, in their turn forced to become fugitives, mostly
+sought a refuge in the West Indies, at first a safe and
+sanctioned asylum, till the
+<a id="pvii" class="pagenumber"></a>very amount of the fresh influx of
+Royalist opinions made the West Indies a thorn in Cromwell’s
+side, and compelled him to have recourse to strong measures to
+secure their obedience to his will,​—​when all these causes are
+considered, it becomes no longer a matter of wonder that much of
+the best blood of England runs in the veins of the people, not
+only of Antigua, but of the West India islands generally.</p>
+
+<p>In justice to the character of the country which I have learned
+to love, I must, although unwillingly, notice another and a most
+painful subject. I refer to the exceedingly harsh laws passed
+respecting the slaves, and the shocking executions of those
+concerned in the insurrection in 1736. In relation to the former
+point, it is sufficient to observe that such laws are almost
+inseparable from the institution of slavery itself, and that the
+stigma affected the mother country equally with her colonies,
+while it redounds to the honour of Antigua that she was the first
+to announce unbounded freedom to her slave population. With
+respect to the barbarous executions, they would not be tolerated
+in Antigua at the present day, even had she continued to be a
+slave-dealing colony; and they can only in justice be referred to
+a state of society when the practice of torture had hardly fallen
+into desuetude in the civil courts of Europe, when the
+Inquisition was in full glory, when, only a few years before, the
+politest capital in the world had looked unmoved on</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Luke’s iron crown, and Damien’s bed of steel,”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">and criminals continued to be strung up by dozens in England (and
+for many long years after) for offences
+<a id="pviii" class="pagenumber"></a>which, in the present
+advanced state of society, no civilized state would visit with
+the punishment of death. What wonder, then, that at such a
+period, and under such alarming circumstances, the Antiguans
+should have shewn themselves cruel and barbarous?</p>
+
+<p>Before I conclude, I must not omit to tender my acknowledgments
+to the numerous friends who have kindly afforded me assistance in
+the course of my work, among whom let me make grateful mention of
+Edward S. Byam, Esq., the Rev. and Hon. Burgh Byam, Col. Byam,
+Dr. Furgusson, Nathaniel Humphreys, Esq., Deputy Colonial
+Secretary in Antigua, (to which latter gentleman I was indebted
+for access to the Records of the island,) to John Furlong, Esq.,
+(who obliged me with the will of Governor Parke,) Registrar of
+Antigua, to ——— Edmead, Esq., to Captain George B. Mathew, of the
+Guards, the Rev. D. F. Warner, and others.</p>
+
+<p>In conclusion, may the Great Giver of all good pour down His
+choicest blessings upon this beautiful and favoured little
+island; may her legislators be ably endowed in all true
+principles of jurisprudence; may her planters be blest with
+kindly showers, so that their golden canes may raise their “tall
+plumes” in luxuriance; may her merchants, the prop of every
+civilized state, be prosperous​—​her peasantry happy and good, as
+they are <i>free</i>; and, finally, may her ministers (of every
+denomination) be long spared to watch over and pray for her
+teeming inhabitants, that one choral song of praise may resound
+from every quarter and from every tongue.</p>
+
+<p class="signature"><span class="sc">The Author.</span></p>
+
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="contents" class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a id="pix" class="pagenumber"></a>         CONTENTS <br/>
+
+                               <small>OF<br/>
+
+                        THE FIRST VOLUME.</small></h2>
+
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch1">CHAPTER I.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">General Description of the
+Island​—​Appearance​—​Soil​—​Productions​—​Climate​—​Early
+history​—​Discovery by Columbus​—​Attempted settlement by
+Spaniards​—​Grant to Earl of Carlisle​—​Settlement by
+d’Esnambuc​—​Williams​—​Governor Warner​—​Account
+of Sir Thomas Warner, founder of the family</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch2">CHAPTER II.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">History of the island continued​—​Sir Henry
+Hunks​—​Descent of the Caribs​—​Legend of Ding-a-ding
+Nook​—​Arrival of the Ship Nonsuch​—​Sir Thomas
+Modiford​—​Earl of Warwick, Captain-General​—​Captain Edward
+Warner​—​Colonel Rich​—​Colonel Lake​—​Mr.
+Everard​—​Sir George Ayscue​—​Colonel Christopher
+Reynall​—​Invasion by the Caribs​—​Dissensions among the
+inhabitants​—​Copy of Colonel Reynall’s letter to
+Cromwell​—​Attack upon St. Domingo and
+Jamaica​—​Major-General Poyntz​—​Grant of Antigua to Lord F.
+Willoughby</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch3">CHAPTER III.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Rupture between France and England​—​War in the
+West Indies​—​Loss of Lord Francis Willoughby​—​Colonel
+Carden​—​Capture of Antigua by the French forces under M. de la
+Barre​—​Colonel Fitche​—​Restoration of Antigua by the
+Treaty of Breda​—​Death of Colonel Carden​—​Biographical
+notices</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a id="px" class="pagenumber"></a><a href="#ch4">CHAPTER IV.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governors: Lord William Willoughby, Henry
+Willoughby​—​Arrival of Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the
+progenitor of the family of that name​—​Biographical
+remarks​—​Partition of the Caribbee Islands​—​Sir William
+Stapleton​—​General Council and Assembly​—​Colonel Philip
+Warner​—​Expedition against the Caribs​—​Death of Indian
+Warner​—​Arrest and trial of Colonel P.
+Warner​—​Acquittal​—​Dampier’s account of this
+affair​—​Captain Southey’s History of the Indian Warner</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch5">CHAPTER V.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governor Col. R. Williams​—​Biographical
+remarks​—​Towns of trade appointed​—​Antigua divided into
+parishes​—​Sir Nathaniel Johnson appointed captain-general and
+governor-in-chief​—​Colonel Codrington​—​Remarks upon this
+family​—​Invasion of Antigua by a French privateer​—​Attack
+upon Guadeloupe by the English​—​Expedition to St.
+Christopher’s​—​Gallant conduct of Colonel Williams and Colonel
+Willoughby Byam​—​Sir Francis Wheeler’s expedition​—​Wilmot
+and Lillingston’s expedition​—​Death of the captain-general, General
+Codrington​—​Colonel John Yeamans,
+lieutenant-governor​—​Arrival of Admiral Benbow</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch6">CHAPTER VI.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governor Colonel Christopher
+Codrington​—​Establishment of the first market​—​Accession
+of Queen Anne​—​Arrival of Admiral Benbow​—​Attack upon the
+island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction with the Antiguan
+troops​—​Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam​—​Arrival of Captain
+Hovenden Walker​—​Second attack upon Guadaloupe​—​Colonel
+Codrington quits the government​—​His death​—​Sir William
+Mathew​—​Hon. John Johnson</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch7">CHAPTER VII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governor Colonel Daniel Parke​—​His birth-place
+and parentage​—​His actions at the battle of Holchet and
+Blenheim​—​His arrival at Antigua​—​Dissensions with the
+Antiguans​—​Complaints against him sent to England​—​Results
+of the applications at the court of Queen Anne​—​Tyrannical behaviour
+of Colonel Parke​—​Events of the 7th December, 1710​—​Death
+of Colonel Parke</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a id="pxi" class="pagenumber"></a><a href="#ch8">CHAPTER VIII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governor Walter Hamilton​—​Walter Douglas’s
+Disturbances​—​Complaints against him sent to
+England​—​Queen Anne recalls him, and reappoints Walter
+Hamilton​—​Lord Viscount Lowther​—​John
+Hart​—​Lord Londonderry​—​Lord Forbes​—​Colonel
+William Crosbie</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch9">CHAPTER IX.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governor William Mathew​—​Insurrection of the
+Negroes​—​A Legend of the Ravine​—​Punishment of the
+Conspirators</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch10">CHAPTER X.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governor William Mathew​—​Sir George Thomas,
+Bart.​—​James Verchild​—​Honourable William
+Woodley​—​Sir Ralph Payne​—​Hon. Craister
+Greathead​—​General Burt​—​The circumstances of his
+death​—​Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart.</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch11">CHAPTER XI.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governors: William Woodley​—​John
+Stanley​—​Major-General Charles Leigh​—​Archibald
+Esdail​—​John S. Thomas​—​Robert Thomson</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch12">CHAPTER XII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governors: The Right Honourable Ralph Lord
+Lavington​—​William Woodley​—​James Tyson​—​John
+Julius​—​Hugh Elliot​—​Sir James Leith​—​Henry
+Rawlins​—​S. Rawlins​—​Major-General Ramsay</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch13">CHAPTER XIII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Governors: Sir Benjamin D’Urban​—​Sir Patrick
+Ross​—​Sir Evan Murray McGregor​—​Mr. Light​—​Sir
+W. G. MacBean Colebrooke​—​Major McPhail​—​Sir Charles
+Augustus Fitzroy</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch14">CHAPTER XIV.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">My first voyage to Antigua​—​Visit upon
+deck​—​The booby’s welcome​—​Nearer
+approach​—​Harbour of St. John’s​—​The Black
+Pilot​—​North Sandy Island​—​Wreck of the
+mail-boat​—​Dangerous navigation<a id="pxii" class="pagenumber"></a>​—​Long
+Island​—​South Sandy Island​—​Panoramic views from the
+vessel’s deck​—​Light winds​—​Disappointment made
+pleasing​—​Anchorage for the night</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch15">CHAPTER XV.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">The extent of Antigua​—​Opinion of some
+planters​—​Want of agricultural labourers​—​Emigration not
+always profitable to the negroes​—​“Seizar’s” letter upon the
+subject​—​Return of emigrants​—​Soil of
+Antigua​—​Geological
+matters​—​Petrifactions​—​Climate of
+Antigua​—​“Yellow fever”​—​Beautiful
+evenings​—​the appearance of the heavens​—​Evening
+visitants</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch16">CHAPTER XVI.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Scenery of Antigua​—​Pilgrimage to “Tom Moore’s
+Spring”​—​The Goddess Mnemosyne​—​Fig-Tree
+Hill​—​The “Bower of Bliss”​—​“Old Road”​—​The
+Strand​—​The cross sexton​—​The parochial
+school​—​Old Road Church​—​Tomb of Col.
+Williams​—​Moravian settlement​—​Salt
+ponds​—​Copses​—​“Crab Hill”​—​Sandy
+Valley​—​The Valley Church​—​The rising
+moon​—​Arrival in town​—​Night, and night dreams</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch17">CHAPTER XVII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">The seasons at Antigua​—​Heavy
+rains​—​Long droughts​—​The water-merchant​—​A
+fortunate shower​—​Drought in 1837​—​Desolate appearance of
+the country​—​Famishing cattle​—​Definition of “<i>fine
+rains</i>”​—​Anecdote​—​Heavy
+shower​—​Joy​—​Earthquakes​—​1835​—​Meteors​—​Dressing
+for the ball​—​The alarm​—​The
+ball-room​—​Hurricanes​—​Devastations</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Description of the town of St. John’s, the capital of
+Antigua​—​Situation​—​Arrangement of the
+streets​—​Hucksters​—​Houses​—​Springs​—​Small
+shops​—​Stores of the retail
+dealers​—​Grog-shops​—​Merchants’ stores and lumber
+yards​—​Definition of lumber​—​Auction
+sales​—​Scotch Row and Scotchmen​—​Incongruous display of
+goods​—​Fire in 1797​—​Ruins​—​Fire in
+1841​—​Its devastations</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a id="pxiii" class="pagenumber"></a><a href="#ch19">CHAPTER XIX.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Description of the church of St John’s​—​Period of
+its erection​—​Present site​—​Panoramic
+views​—​Form of structure​—​Length and
+breadth​—​Interior​—​Decorations​—​Monuments​—​Organ​—​Tower​—​Bells​—​Clock​—​Churchyard​—​Tombs
+and sepulchral inscriptions​—​An acrostic​—​“Adam and
+Eve!”</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch20">CHAPTER XX.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Court-house​—​Bazaar​—​Arsenal​—​Police-office​—​Government-house​—​Barracks​—​House
+of correction​—​Gaol​—​Methodist
+chapel​—​Methodism, its rise and progress in
+Antigua​—​Moravian chapel​—​Rise and progress of the Society
+of United Brethren​—​Scotch kirk</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch21">CHAPTER XXI.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Morning​—​Institutions​—​Daily Meal
+Society​—​Its rise and
+progress​—​Lazaretto​—​Destitute Females’ Friend
+Society​—​Its origin and purpose​—​Friendly
+Societies​—​Bible Society​—​Missionary
+associations​—​Temperance Society​—​Juvenile
+Association​—​Ladies’ Clothing Society
+&amp;c.​—​Banks​—​Library Society</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch22">CHAPTER XXII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Early rising and “Jamie Thomson”​—​Journey to
+English Harbour​—​Windmills and Don Quixote​—​Groups of
+negroes and their equipages​—​All Saints’ chapel of
+ease​—​The “Hamlet”​—​Village of Liberta​—​Grace
+Hill​—​Patterson’s and Prince William​—​English Harbour
+market​—​Streets and dwellings​—​Commissariat’s store and
+government tank​—​Dockyard​—​The
+superintendent​—​Stores and storehouses​—​Engineer’s
+workshop​—​Blacksmith’s shop and blowing machine​—​Limes and
+roses​—​Recollections of England​—​Lieutenant Peterson and
+Lord Camelford​—​His lordship’s pranks​—​The
+ordnance​—​Clarence House and Dows Hill​—​The Ridge and
+“Shirley heights”​—​Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley​—​Bats
+Cave​—​The Savannah and its tombs​—​Indian
+Creek​—​Return to town</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch23">CHAPTER XXIII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Zulmiera, the Half-Carib girl, a Legend of the Savannah</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a id="pxiv" class="pagenumber"></a><a href="#ch24">CHAPTER XXIV.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Continuation of the Legend</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch25">CHAPTER XXV.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Conclusion of the Legend</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch26">CHAPTER XXVI.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Towns: Falmouth​—​Church and
+churchyard​—​Mangroves and acacias​—​Black’s
+Point​—​Bridgetown​—​Willoughby Bay​—​Its site and
+decoration​—​The superintendent of the Wesleyan
+schools​—​School-room​—​Methodist chapel​—​The
+Memoras​—​St Philip’s church​—​Beautiful
+views​—​Parham​—​Its derivation and site​—​St
+Peter’s church​—​Churchyard​—​The new
+church​—​Methodist chapel and school-room</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch27">CHAPTER XXVII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Forts and fortifications​—​Temporary
+ones​—​The present forts​—​Fort James​—​Its
+situation and approach​—​Rat Island Battery, its appellation, lunatic
+asylum, and flag-staff​—​Goat Hill​—​Steep
+ascent​—​Schools in St. John’s</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><a href="#ch28">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a></p>
+
+<p class="argument">Remarks upon the aboriginal
+Americans​—​Suppositions of various
+authors​—​Caribs​—​Arrowawks​—​Ferocity of the
+Carib​—​Complexion​—​Dress​—​Ornaments​—​Dreadful
+revenge​—​Wars-Chiefs​—​Severities
+practised​—​Feasts​—​Remarks upon
+paganism​—​Anthropophagi​—​A traveller’s
+tale​—​The Carib’s opinion of death​—​Religious
+tenets​—​Altars​—​The burning Carib</p>
+
+
+<p class="cent">ERRATA.</p>
+
+<p>[Transcriber’s Note: these errata have been incorporated.]</p>
+
+<p>Page 4, line 8 from top, <i>for</i> “D’Escambue,” <i>read</i> “D’Esnambuc.”</p>
+<p>—  20, line 7 from bottom, <i>for</i> “Parhan,” <i>read</i> “Parham.”</p>
+<p>—  89, line 3 from top, <i>for</i> “Mathews,” <i>read</i> “Mathew.”</p>
+<p>— 249, line 13 from top, <i>for</i> “Hernhult,” <i>read</i> “Herrnhutt.”</p>
+<p>— 266, line 3 from bottom, <i>for</i> “Sheltic,” <i>read</i> “Sheltie.”</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="subs" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>SUBSCRIBERS.</h2>
+
+<table id="subs1" width="100%">
+<thead>
+<tr>
+<th></th>
+<th align="right">COPIES</th>
+</tr>
+</thead>
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td>Sir Charles A. Fitz Roy, Governor-in-Chief of the Leeward&#xa0;Islands</td>
+<td align="right">4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Major McPhail, Lieutenant-Governor of Dominica</td>
+<td align="right">4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>The Lord Bishop of Antigua</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<h3>Members of Council</h3>
+
+<table id="subs2" width="100%">
+<thead>
+<tr>
+<th></th>
+<th align="right">COPIES</th>
+</tr>
+</thead>
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. Mead H. Daniel, President</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. Rowland E. Williams</td>
+<td align="right">4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. William Byam, (Cedar Hill)</td>
+<td align="right">4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. Bertie E. Jarvis</td>
+<td align="right">4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. G. W. Ottley</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. R. W. Nanton</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. Owen Pell</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. George S. Martin</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. Paul Horsford</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<h3>Members of the House of Assembly, &amp;c.</h3>
+
+<table id="subs3" width="100%">
+<thead>
+<tr>
+<th></th>
+<th align="right">COPIES</th>
+</tr>
+</thead>
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. Thomas Sanderson, Speaker</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. William Lee</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. Thomas F. Nibbs</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. John Athill</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Scotland, Jun.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. John Gray</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Francis Byam Ottley</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas Furgusson</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William Thibou</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>R. B. Eldredge</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Osborn</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James W. Sheriff</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Samuel Auchinleck</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Jos. L. Bindon</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>D. H. Allan, (Whitehaven)</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>George Athill</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Athill</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Gedney C. Bispham</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Godschall Johnson</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William Gordon</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Horace Turner</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William H. Thompson</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Boyd</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. E. Sanderson</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Charles Murray</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Hosier</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>W. H. Grant</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>N. J. Hill</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. H. More</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Robert Erskine</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William S. Odlum</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Robert Humphreys</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Edward Wesston</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Thibou</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>R. K. Nanton</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Madgwick</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Paul Horsford</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas Prizgar</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Robert Armstrong</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. Burke Scotland</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James E. Geddes</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>George Ewart</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John McDonald</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Gordon</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>George Cranstoun</td>
+<td align="right">3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. Barrett</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>W. T. Gore</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>H. Perrott, 59th Regiment</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Gilbert Auchinleck</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>A. Duncan</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William L. Nibbs</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>M. Capdestaing</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James F. Salmon</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Samuel L. Bridges</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>T. H. Morrison</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Haining</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Henry Simpson</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas Barry Nibbs</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>N. Humphreyes, Jun.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Charles Robertson, Sen.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William Kelly</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Benjamin Scotland</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Joseph Black</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>George Black</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William C. Brookes</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>A. McDowal</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>R. W. Baxter</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John F. Smyth</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Ed. F. Grant</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Rev. H. G. Hall</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Scotland, Jun.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Patrick Cadell</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Gow</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Richard Higginbotham</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas C. Walter</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John W. Scotland</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Richard Wilson, (Mico School)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Dr. J. Anderson</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas Gordon, (English Harbour)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Charles Boison</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Francis Critchton, (Rose’s Estate)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Charles McGuire</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Jeremiah R. Nibbs</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John B. Lowry</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Robert T. Pooler</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Mrs. Freeland</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Captain Kennedy, Brig, “British Queen.”</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. C. Milward</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Henry T. Pigot, (Villa Estate)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>C. W. More</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Jos. Lavicount</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William Simpson, Jun.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Rev. J. B. Wilkinson</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William Walker, P. M. G.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Dr. Carmault</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>P. P. Walter</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>David Armour</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Charles Robertson, Jun.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas H. Hyndman</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Boyd</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Ashford</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas W. Scholar</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William Grant, (Freeman’s Estate)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Bradfoot Taber</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas Doyle</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Dr. Thomas Nicholson</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Edward Liscombe</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James C. Wesston, M.D.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Robert Kennedy</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Robert Lindsay, A. C.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>D. Cranstoun</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Oswald Wood, M.D.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>G. J. Watkins, (Lavington’s Estate)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. P. Maynard</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Captain W. C. Johnson, Brig “Ludlow”</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>D. Malone, (English Harbour)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>D. Scarville</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. P. Guilmett</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>W. Isaacs, (English Harbour)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. Hart, Superintendent of Naval Yard</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>——— Nugent, 59th Regiment</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>——— Peebles, ditto</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Rev. James Curtin</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas Clarke</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>George Scotland</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Alonzo Hurst</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Henry Trew, Collector H. M. C.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>T. A. Benjamin, D. O. S. K.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>George S. Bladen</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Ledger</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>W. G. Dumeresque, H. M. C.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>F. H. Price, H. M. C.</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hinton Simpson</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. J. Ronan</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Jos. Sherrington</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Winter, Chief of Police</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>G. B. Cadelle</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>W. A. Ross Willock</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. R. Haynes, (Folly Estate)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Goodwin, (Mount Lucy Estate)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas Bryan, (Elliot’s Estate)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Jno. M. Donovan</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Frederick Kysh</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Richard Abbot</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William Howell</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>R. S. White</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>J. Fulton Author</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Dr. Henry French</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Captain Fred. Simpson, “Miranda” (ship)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Stewart, (Hermitage Estate)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Samuel M. Richard</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Lieutenant Bulman, H. M. S. “Fair Rosamond”</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>C. F. Fox</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Mrs. Storrock</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Connor, (English Harbour)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Jno. Rodney</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Robert Gregory</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Henry Elliot</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Brodie G. McNish</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Andrew Brown</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Mat. Cockburn</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Mrs. T. C. Walter</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Dr. Jno. Furlong</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James W. Boyd</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Wm. Fairclough</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<h3>St. Christopher’s.</h3>
+
+<table id="subs4" width="100%">
+<thead>
+<tr>
+<th></th>
+<th align="right">COPIES</th>
+</tr>
+</thead>
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td>Horatio Adlum</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Joseph McLachlane</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Private Subscription Rooms</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>C. Hay</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>William Padmore</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Messrs. Dinzey and Peterson</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>C. McMahon</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Rev. William Frazer</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Henry Woodcock</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>C. A. Tapshire</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>N. J. Lynch</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Robert Nimmo</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. R. Claxton, Attorney-General</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. R. B. Cleghorn, President of Nevis</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>H. Harding, (Nevis)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James Thensteat, (Dominica)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Fortunatus Larrica, (Madeira)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>T. L. Foster</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>F. Burk, (Monserrat)</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<h3>England.</h3>
+
+<table id="subs5" width="100%">
+<thead>
+<tr>
+<th></th>
+<th>COPIES</th>
+</tr>
+</thead>
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td>Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Sir T. Fowel Buxton, Bart., Northrepps, Norfolk</td>
+<td align="right">4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Lord James O’Bryen, 15, North Crescent, Bath</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Sir George Thomas, Weymouth</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Captain G. B. Mathew, Carlton Club</td>
+<td align="right">4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Lieutenant Parsons, R.N., Southampton</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Rev. William Palmer, Rector, Eynesbury, Hunts</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Joseph Liggins, Esq., Mincing-lane, London</td>
+<td align="right">2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Rev. Daniel F. Warner, Rector, Hoo, Rochester</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Mrs. Byam, Byam House, Brighton</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Edward S. Byam, Esq., Cheltenham</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Hon. and Rev. Richard Burgh Byam, Vicar of Kew&#xa0;and&#xa0;Petersham</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Mrs. Engleharte</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Mrs. John Walter, Bridge-street, Blackfriars</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>L. C. Lecesne, Esq., Fenchurch-buildings</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Lewis F. Bellot, Esq., Barge-yard Chambers, Bucklersbury</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>James McKie, Esq., Bucklersbury</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Edward Byam Wyke, Esq., Ealing</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Rev. Sam. Ashton Warner, Rector of St. George’s, Antigua</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>Shirley Warner, Esq., Stipendiary Magistrate, Montserrat</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>John Dawson, Esq., Whitehaven</td>
+<td align="right">1</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch1" class="chapter">
+
+<p class="abovehead"><a id="p1" class="pagenumber"></a>ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,<br/>
+
+                              <small>ETC.</small></p>
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<p class="argument">General Description of the
+Island​—​Appearance​—​Soil​—​Productions​—​Climate​—​Early
+history​—​Discovery by Columbus​—​Attempted settlement by
+Spaniards​—​Grant to Earl of Carlisle​—​Settlement by
+d’Esnambuc​—​Williams​—​Governor Warner​—​Account
+of Sir Thomas Warner, founder of the family.</p>
+
+<p class="init">The Island of Antigua, one of the great Antilles, is situated in
+the Caribbean Sea, about twenty-five miles to the north-east of
+Montserrat, and forty miles north of Guadaloupe, in latitude
+seventeen degrees north, and longitude sixty-two degrees, or
+thereabouts, the measurement in these respects not being more
+exact than those of its length and breadth, which are variously
+stated at 21, 20, and 18 miles for its length, and 21, 20, and
+17, for its breadth. The lower estimate is, however, most
+probably correct. Its circumference, again, is variously stated
+at from 50 to 80 miles, and its total area from 59,838 acres, to
+108 square miles, or nearly 70,000 acres. The population in 1837,
+consisted of 2000 whites and coloured people, and 33,000 blacks.
+All the slaves in the island were enfranchised in 1834.</p>
+
+<p>The island is of an oval shape. On the first approach the coast
+appears rough and barren, but as the voyager draws nearer, hills
+and valleys open on his view, and the shore puts
+<a id="p2" class="pagenumber" title="Description of the island."></a>on an appearance
+of luxuriant vegetation. The country possesses little of a
+mountainous character, the highest elevation reaching only to the
+height of 1210 feet above the level of the sea. The soil varies
+according to the situation; that of the valleys and low lands
+consisting of a rich, black mould, on a substratum of clay; and
+unless in seasons of excessive drought, to which this island is
+peculiarly subject, remarkably productive. The soil of the high
+lands, on the other hand, is a stiff, reddish clay, on a
+substratum of marl, and is much less productive, abounding, as it
+does, with a species of grass extremely difficult to extirpate;
+and the increase of which has even caused some lands, formerly
+cultivated, to be abandoned. With the exception of such tracts,
+and of a small part totally unimprovable, the whole island may be
+said to be under cultivation. The staple production is sugar; a
+little cotton is cultivated; but all other articles of commerce,
+with the exception of sugar, are neglected. The quantities of
+ground provisions, as yams, eddoes, sweet potatoes, &amp;c., grown in
+favourable seasons, is very considerable.</p>
+
+<p>The most remarkable circumstance connected with Antigua is the
+want of fresh-water springs, there being but two or three of
+them, wholly inadequate to the wants of the population. This want
+is supplied by tanks, in which the rain water is preserved, and
+found to be particularly wholesome and agreeable, being light and
+pleasing to the palate.</p>
+
+<p>The climate is remarkable for want of moisture, although the
+average fall of rain is forty-five inches. It is considered one
+of the most healthy in the West Indies.</p>
+
+<p>The history of Antigua may be said to commence with its discovery
+by Columbus, for although it was at that period, and
+subsequently, frequented by the Caribs, they appear not to have
+made it a place of permanent residence; the want of water, which
+caused European settlers so long to neglect the island, deterring
+them also from establishing themselves upon it. For an account of
+the Caribs, and of their probable origin, the reader is referred
+to the chapters
+<a id="p3" class="pagenumber" title="Discovery by Columbus."></a>devoted to that interesting subject; and we shall
+now proceed to the history of the settlement of the island and of
+its internal administration down to the present time, reserving
+for future chapters those sketches of the island, and its
+inhabitants, which are the result of personal experience.</p>
+
+<p>It was not until his second voyage, in the year 1493, that
+Columbus discovered Antigua. He landed with a party, but finding,
+on examination, that it was peopled only by a few Caribs, who
+possessed nothing that was serviceable to the Spaniards, and who
+were, probably, only casual visitants, and that the island was
+destitute of fresh water, he contented himself with giving it a
+name, Antigua, from the church of St. Mary of Antigua, at
+Seville, and abandoned it. There is a tradition that the name
+given to the island by the natives was “Xaymaca,” signifying the
+“land of springs;” but whether this “lucus a non lucendo” was a
+specimen of Caribbean wit, or, more probably, arose from a
+mistake on the part of the European visitants, is uncertain.</p>
+
+<p>Antigua remained neglected by all the various European
+adventurers, who hastened in crowds to other more favoured spots,
+until the year 1520, when a small party of Spaniards, under the
+Licentiate Don Antonio Serrano, who had received letters-patent
+<!-- leaving "Barbadu" as I cannot be sure whether it is a typo for Barbuda or Barbado(s) -->
+from the King of Spain to colonize Antigua, Montserrat, Barbadu,
+Deseada, Dominica, and Martinique, landed, and driving off the
+few Caribs they found there, attempted to establish themselves;
+but after a short stay they abandoned it, and the island remained
+without a European claimant until the year 1627, when the Earl of
+Carlisle obtained a grant of Barbados, Antigua, and the rest of
+the Leeward Islands, from Charles I. This grant was opposed by
+the Earl of Marlborough, on the plea of a prior grant from James
+I., which was, however, eventually compromised, and the Earl of
+Carlisle was recognised as the sole proprietor. He, however,
+contented himself with settling Barbados; and although Antigua
+was colonized in his lifetime, yet neither he nor his son, who
+died without
+<a id="p4" class="pagenumber" title="First settlement."></a>issue in 1660, and in whom the family honours became
+extinct, appear to have ever interested themselves in Antigua, or
+to have exercised any rights of ownership or property. In fact,
+the first permanent occupation of the island appears to have been
+a mere private speculation, and to have excited little notice or
+inquiry, since it is still a question who was the first actual
+settler.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1629, Mons. d’Esnambuc, the captain of a French
+privateer, made an attempt at a settlement, but the want of water
+drove him away after a very short stay; so short, indeed, that
+although a party of English settlers seem to have been upon the
+island, he did not remain long enough to discover them. The
+assertion, however, that English colonists were then on the
+island, rests solely on a tradition that William Herbert, Earl of
+Pembroke, who interested himself greatly in the colonization of
+the West Indies, sent out his friend and countryman, Mr.
+Williams, (the father of Colonel Rowland Williams, renowned in
+Antiguan story, as having been the first white child born on the
+island,) to attempt a settlement in Antigua. As Lord Pembroke
+died in April 1630, it does not appear probable that Mr.
+Williams’ settlement was later than 1629. If he were not the
+first, there is no doubt he was one of the first settlers, and an
+estate at Old Road, still in possession of his descendant, is
+pointed out as the spot he made choice of for his residence,
+which, as it is in the neighbourhood of the best spring in the
+island, now known as “Tom Moore’s Spring,” is extremely likely to
+have been the case. A fact that strengthens the probability of
+Mr. Williams being the first settler is, that Mr. Warner, who
+unquestionably conducted a party to Antigua from St. Kitts, in
+1632, fixed his residence near the same spot, which it is natural
+he should do, for the sake of companionship, but built a cistern,
+whose ruins are still to be seen in the savannah, which he need
+not have done, had not the scanty spring been already
+appropriated.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1632, General Sir Thomas Warner, at that time, by the
+sanction of the Earl of Carlisle, the legal proprietor,
+<a id="p5" class="pagenumber" title="General Sir Thomas Warner."></a>and,
+under warrant from the king, Governor of St. Christopher, Nevis,
+Barbados, and Montserrat, sent his son Edward, a captain in the
+army, with a sufficient party, to colonize Antigua, which design
+he carried into effect, and during the remainder of his life
+continued to act as governor, although we have discovered no
+evidence of his having ever possessed, either as principal or
+deputy, any warrant for assuming the title, or executing the
+functions of governor, except so far as his father, as agent for
+the Earl of Carlisle, the lord proprietor of the island, might be
+considered as vested with authority; for in his commission from
+the crown, no mention is made of Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>The name of Warner being thus distinguished in the annals of
+Antigua, we may be excused for making a digression upon the
+history of its founder, more especially as it affords a good
+illustration of the process of colonization in our West Indian
+and American possessions.</p>
+
+<p>General Sir Thomas Warner was a scion of an ancient and
+distinguished English family; but from being a younger son, he
+was obliged to use personal efforts, in order to effect an
+honourable passage through life. Having entered into the army at
+an early age, and attained the rank of captain, he accompanied
+Roger North, brother of Lord North, in his expedition to Guiana,
+a country which was then looked upon as a perfect <i>Eldorado</i>.
+Here he became acquainted with a Captain Painton, a great
+navigator of those times, and one who had well studied the then
+all-engrossing subject of colonization.</p>
+
+<p>This gentleman suggested to Captain Warner how much more facility
+would attend a settlement in one of the smaller islands, than in
+a country so extensive as Guiana; and from his own personal
+experience, he thought St. Christopher’s (at that time unoccupied
+by any European power) would be an island particularly adapted
+for the exercise of a daring spirit, in the way of planting a
+settlement.</p>
+
+<p>These suggestions of his friend appear to have made due
+impression upon the mind of Mr. Warner; for in 1620, after the
+death of Captain Painton, he resolved to return to England,
+<a id="p6" class="pagenumber" title="Colonization of St. Christopher’s."></a>and
+endeavour to procure the aid of some kindred spirit, in order to
+put his designs into execution. Having so far succeeded in his
+plans as to procure all necessary arrangements for establishing a
+colony, Mr. Warner again left England, accompanied by his wife
+and son, Edward, (who was a captain in the army at the early age
+of thirteen, and who was afterwards appointed first governor of
+Antigua,) and a small party of followers,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref1" href="#note1">1</a>]</sup> and embarked on
+board a vessel bound for Virginia, whence himself and party
+proceeded to St. Christopher’s, where they arrived 28th January,
+1623. Mr. Warner, as head of the settlers, commenced immediately
+the task of cultivation, in which he so far progressed as to
+raise a crop of tobacco, which was unfortunately destroyed in the
+severe hurricane of the 19th of the following September.</p>
+
+<p>During this period, the movements of the English were diligently
+observed by the Caribs, who, instigated by three Frenchmen,
+(supposed to have been cast upon the island by a former storm,)
+at length made an outbreak upon the English, and retarded in some
+measure their work of cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>By the end of the following February, Mr. Warner had another crop
+of tobacco ready for exportation; and the ship Hopewell
+(commanded by Captain Jefferson) arriving on the 4th March, 1624,
+from London, bringing fresh supplies for the infant colony, a few
+emigrants, and goods with which to trade with the Caribs, Mr.
+Warner resolved to return in her to England, in order to obtain
+more powerful assistance. He accordingly embarked himself and his
+first-gathered crop on board the “Hopewell,” and once more sought
+the shores of England, to receive the congratulations of his
+friends, and search for a patron who would enable him to carry
+out further his plans of colonization.</p>
+
+<p>Between that period and 1625, Mr. Warner was employed in voyaging
+backwards and forwards from St. Christopher’s
+<a id="p7" class="pagenumber" title="Sir Thomas Warner’s epitaph."></a>and England,
+leaving the cares of the government to his son, Edward Warner,
+(of whom Du Tertre speaks very handsomely,) until, having gained
+a friend and patron in the Earl of Carlisle, he was introduced at
+the court of the then reigning sovereign, Charles I. This monarch
+was so pleased with Mr. Warner’s indefatigable and patriotic
+spirit, that he was graciously pleased to grant him a commission,
+(signed 13th Sept. 1625,) constituting him governor over the
+“foure islands of St. Christopher’s, Nevis, Barbados, and
+Mountserrate,”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref2" href="#note2">2</a>]</sup> and on the 21st September, 1629, knighted him
+at Hampton Court Palace.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref3" href="#note3">3</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p><a id="p8" class="pagenumber" title="History of Antigua."></a>Some of Sir Thomas Warner’s descendants have filled the highest
+situations in Antigua, administering the government at times. Nor
+is the family extinct, for many there are who can trace their
+descent in a direct line from this great founder of four
+flourishing colonies. One of these was in 1838 “gathered to his
+fathers;” he was esteemed as an able legislator, and fulfilled
+his duties as president of the council, brigadier-general of the
+militia, and occasionally lieutenant-governor, with integrity. As
+this family ranks among the first aristocrats of the island, a
+more particular account of their lineal descent may not be deemed
+superfluous, and will be found in the Appendix, No. 2.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note1" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref1">1</a>] The names of these adventurous few were as follows:—​William
+Tasted, John Rhodes, Robert Bims, Mr. Benifield, Sergeant Jones,
+Mr. Ware, William Ryle, Rowland Grasscocke, Mr. Bond, Mr.
+Langley, Mr. Weaver, Sergeant Aplon, one sailor, and a cook.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note2" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref2">2</a>] Vide copy of the first commission granted, No. 1, Appendix.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note3" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref3">3</a>] Sir Thomas Warner died at St Christopher’s in 1648. His tomb
+is still to be met with in the parish church for the township of
+Old Road, (a place which derives its name from the involuntary
+exclamation of Columbus upon his second visit to St.
+Christopher’s, “Ah! we are at the <i>old road</i> again,”) the
+inscription upon which is as follows:—</p>
+<p class="cent">
+              An Epitaph vpon Th-------------------<br/>
+                Noble &amp; Mvch Lamented Genr<sup>l</sup> Sir<br/>
+                   Tho. Warner, K<sup>t</sup> Lievtenant<br/>
+                     General of y<sup>e</sup> Carribee<br/>
+                    Ielands &amp; Gover<sup>r</sup> of y<sup>e</sup><br/>
+                    Ieland of S<sup>t</sup> Christopher<br/>
+                        Who Departed This<br/>
+                        Life the 10th of<br/>
+                           March 1648.</p>
+<p class="stanza">First Read then weepe when thou art hereby taught,<br/>
+       That Warner lyes interr’d here, one that bought,<br/>
+       With losse of Noble bloud Illustrious Name,<br/>
+       Of A Comander Greate in Acts of Fame.<br/>
+       Trayn’d from his youth in Armes, his courage bold,<br/>
+       Attempted braue Exploites, and vncontrold<br/>
+       By fortunes fiercest Frownes, hee still gaue forth<br/>
+       Large Narratiues of Military worth.<br/>
+       ----ritten with his sword’s poynt, but what is man<br/>
+       -------the midst of his glory, and who can<br/>
+       ----------this Life A moment, since that hee<br/>
+       -------------by Sea and Land, so longe kept free<br/>
+       -----------al, Mortal Strokes at length did yeeld<br/>
+       ------------ace) to conquering Death the field,<br/>
+                          fini Coronat.</p>
+<p>The black lines shew where the marble is broken, or the letters
+from some other cause are quite obliterated.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch2" class="chapter">
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">History of the island continued​—​Sir Henry
+Hunks​—​Descent of the Caribs​—​Legend of Ding-a-ding
+Nook​—​Arrival of the Ship Nonsuch​—​Sir Thomas
+Modiford​—​Earl of Warwick, Captain-General​—​Captain Edward
+Warner​—​Colonel Rich​—​Colonel Lake​—​Mr.
+Everard​—​Sir George Ayscue​—​Colonel Christopher
+Reynall​—​Invasion by the Caribs​—​Dissensions among the
+inhabitants​—​Copy of Colonel Reynall’s letter to
+Cromwell​—​Attack upon St. Domingo and
+Jamaica​—​Major-General Poyntz​—​Grant of Antigua to Lord F.
+Willoughby.</p>
+
+<p class="init">We will now return to the history of Antigua, which we shall
+hereafter pursue, as closely as possible, in chronological order.</p>
+
+<p>In 1639, Sir Henry Hunks paid Antigua a visit. This gentleman
+(who was nephew to Lord Conway, Secretary of State) was the first
+governor of Barbados with a regular commission; but upon his
+arrival at that colony, Henry Hawley, the then acting
+commander-in-chief, would not resign the government, and raised
+so formidable a party, that Sir Henry Hunks quietly retired to
+Antigua, where he remained from June to December; at which latter
+period,
+<a id="p9" class="pagenumber" title="Descent of the Caribs."></a>he was installed in his government, according to the
+instructions which he received from England.</p>
+
+<p>In 1640, the English settlers were disturbed in their possessions
+at Antigua by the Caribs, who made a descent upon the island,
+pillaging it, and destroying everything that fell in their way.
+After many lives being lost on both sides, the English were
+enabled to repel their invaders; who, however, succeeded in
+carrying away the governor’s wife and her two children. It is
+maintained by some authors, that the after fate of this
+unfortunate woman was not known; but that everything the worst
+might be imagined from the character of the Caribs, goaded on as
+they were by the loss of their country.</p>
+
+<p>There is, however, a tradition still extant in Antigua, which
+most probably relates to this catastrophe. In the first years of
+this island becoming an English colony, it was, of course, but
+thinly peopled by Europeans, and consequently there was but
+little force to repel any invasion. Parties of Caribs from the
+different islands, particularly Dominica, used frequently to land
+upon it, and distress the inhabitants. In these invasions, no
+mercy was shewn, no quarter given, to the unhappy people who fell
+in their power, and after a combat, numerous were the bodies left
+upon the field of battle. Armed with their massive clubs and
+sharp spears, at the end of which was inserted a fish-bone,
+dipped in the poisonous juice of the lianas or the manchineel,
+the Caribs were no mean foes. No sooner had they set fire to a
+cluster of houses, or destroyed a field of tobacco, the chief
+production of the island in those days, than they immediately
+flew to their canoes, which were so fast in sailing, that before
+the alarm had subsided in one part, they were burning and
+plundering in another.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref4" href="#note4">4</a>]</sup> At that period,
+<a id="p10" class="pagenumber" title="Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook."></a>the house where the
+governor resided was situated near Falmouth Bay; and in the
+village itself the principal of the English settlers lived.
+Government House, from its situation, was particularly open to
+the attacks of the Caribs; and here the first part of the scene
+took place, which gave rise to</p>
+
+<h3>The Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref5" href="#note5">5</a>]</sup></h3>
+
+<p>It was night. The wind, which had been blowing rather hard during
+the day, as evening drew in, gradually sank, until about
+midnight, the time when the legend opens, it was a dead calm.
+Nothing was to be heard but the dull moaning of the waves, as
+they broke heavily upon the beach, or, now and then, the distant
+bark of a dog from the houses of the settlers, which, with the
+natural fidelity of that animal, had followed his master to these
+sunny islands, when he came in search of that fortune which his
+native land denied him.</p>
+
+<p>The family of the governor consisted of himself, his young and
+beautiful wife, two lovely children, and his numerous domestics.
+At an early period of this evening, his lady, with the warm
+solicitude of a mother’s love, had seen her infants safely
+deposited in their cot; and with a mother’s prayer for their
+happiness upon her lips, watched beside them until the deepening
+rose upon their cheeks, and their measured breathings, shewed
+that they slept the quiet sleep of childhood.</p>
+
+<p>Hours rolled on, and all beneath that roof sought their
+resting-place​—​all but the governor’s wife were quickly in the
+arms of sleep. As if some “spirit of the night” had whispered a
+hint of the sufferings she was fated to endure, an irresistible
+feeling of melancholy hung over her. Sleep she could not; and to
+allay the fever of her brow, she arose from her couch, and
+throwing her robe around her, she opened the lattice. The scene
+she looked upon was wild but beautiful.
+<a id="p11" class="pagenumber" title="Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook."></a>Dark masses of clouds
+still hung about the heavens, and strove to hide the beams of the
+rising moon; but she, “fair Cynthia,” kept on her way in peerless
+majesty, and shed on every object her mellowed light. The simple
+houses of the English were visible amid the trees; above which
+the stately cocoa-nut reared its head, its long pendant branches
+perfectly motionless. On one side, the bay of Falmouth lay
+stretched before the eye of the gazer, every snow-crested wave of
+which could be counted; and on the other were the dark mountains,
+except in the opening of the bay, where nothing was to be seen
+but an extent of waters.</p>
+
+<p>Long did that beautiful lady gaze upon this scene: many thoughts
+did its loveliness conjure up​—​thoughts of her native land, its
+verdant hills and spangled dells, and all its towering cities.
+Present objects were fast fading away, when a splash of the
+waters was heard, and as her eye sought the ocean, a
+swift-gliding canoe came in sight. At this moment, the moon,
+which had been lately obscured, shone out with redoubled
+brightness, and she could plainly discover that the canoe
+contained about twenty armed men, and was quickly followed by
+another, with even more than that number. Who could these
+strangers be? was the first thought; and what their business at
+such an hour? Were they Caribs? And one more glance at their wild
+forms, and the dreadful truth rushed across her mind, that they
+were coming to storm the house. Soon she awoke her husband, and
+told him her fears; the domestics were aroused and armed, and the
+house put into a posture of defence.</p>
+
+<p>The canoes were now no longer to be seen; and even the lady was
+inclined to ask, Could it be one of those wild vagaries of the
+imagination? when suddenly the war-cry was heard, and, with
+dreadful imprecations, a party of Caribs bounded into sight.
+Terrible was the fight that succeeded, and many a corse strewed
+the ground. At length the Caribs were obliged to retreat; but,
+alas! they carried with them all that was dear to the
+governor​—​his wife and children.
+<a id="p12" class="pagenumber" title="Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook."></a>The Caribs, hotly pursued, made
+for the place where they had directed their canoes to wait, under
+the charge of some of their friends, dragging the unhappy lady
+and her two babies with them. Frightened by the wild looks of the
+Indians, and suddenly awakened from its slumbers, one of the
+little innocents commenced crying bitterly, which its distressed
+mother, at the command of her conquerors, vainly endeavoured to
+still. After walking, or rather running, for some distance, they
+had almost reached the sea-side, when one of the Caribs, more
+ferocious than the rest, and thinking that the cries of the child
+would perhaps lead their pursuers to the spot, caught the baby by
+the feet, and swinging it around his head, at one blow dashed out
+its brains upon a neighbouring rock.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref6" href="#note6">6</a>]</sup> This deed committed in
+sight of its parent, the lady and her remaining child were rudely
+hurried on, until, the beach gained, they were thrown into one of
+the canoes; and the whole party embarking, they pushed out into
+the ocean.</p>
+
+<p>The governor, finding they had escaped, proceeded on board an
+armed vessel, and immediately sailed in pursuit of the enemy. The
+morning that succeeded that disastrous night was one of West
+Indian beauty; not a vapour was abroad; the sky was one deep,
+lovely blue, and the sea looked like fluid light. Seated upon the
+high poop, anxiously did the governor scan the waters in hopes of
+seeing the canoes; but nothing met his eye​—​not even a speck
+appeared to raise his hopes. Hour after hour passed away, but no
+sight of the fugitives; night drew on, and the breeze died away;
+the sails flapping heavily against the mast bespoke another calm.
+How tedious seemed those hours of darkness​—​how fervently was the
+morning wished for; but just before dawn the wind sprung up, and
+soon after the mountains of Dominica appeared in sight. Slowly
+<a id="p13" class="pagenumber" title="Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook."></a>
+but surely the vessel glided on, every eye watching for some
+trace of the lost ones, when, in the opening of a little bay, two
+empty canoes were discovered. Could these be the same they were
+in quest of? was the anxious query; and if so, where could their
+owners be? Orders were given to let go the anchor, and prepare
+the boats; and in a short time the governor and his party, all
+well armed, were landed upon the beach.</p>
+
+<p>A beaten path led up to the mountains, and it was determined
+to pursue it in hopes of it leading to some dwelling,
+where they might obtain information. As it proceeded,
+however, it became more and more intricate, guava bushes,
+aloes, and the prickly pear, grew thickly together, while
+different species of parasites conspired to render the path
+more impervious. In some places it was almost obstructed
+by these various bushes, interspersed with larger trees, so
+that the companions of the governor were for returning,
+supposing no one could have passed that way lately. But
+he was determined to proceed a little further; and had just
+stretched out his hand to sever with his sword the overhanging
+boughs of an acacia, when suddenly he made a start, his heart
+beat almost to bursting, and, unable to speak, he pointed to his
+amazed followers a portion of white taffeta hanging to one of its
+sharp thorns. This, he felt assured, must have been torn from the
+robe of his wife; and, consequently, that was the road her
+conquerors must have carried her. Upon further search among the
+rank and tangled grass, in hopes of discovering prints of
+footsteps, marks of blood were observed. These led to further
+inquiries. Could they have murdered her there? But no; had such
+been the case, greater quantities of blood would have marked the
+deed. Perhaps she might have been wounded, and placed in some
+concealment near. Again they proceeded, guided by the drops of
+blood, until, coming to an abrupt turn of the path, about a dozen
+Caribs’ huts
+<a id="p14" class="pagenumber" title="Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook."></a>lay stretched before them, and their fierce inmates
+lolling around the open doors.</p>
+
+<p>In less than a minute all was confusion. Confident that this was
+the party who had stolen his wife, the governor rushed upon them
+furious with passion. Nothing could resist his power; Carib after
+Carib lay stretched by the prowess of his arm; and springing over
+his prostrate foes, the anxious husband entered the principal
+hut, which he had observed was carefully guarded throughout the
+fray. A well-known voice called his name, an infant’s cry of joy
+saluted his ear, and, bursting open an inner door, his weeping
+wife was in his arms, and his darling child clinging around his
+knees. It took but little time to quit that spot, and retrace the
+mountain path. The drops of blood he had seen were occasioned by
+his wife’s shoe coming off, and the rugged ascent cutting her
+tender feet, upon her journey to the Caribs’ huts. The boat was
+quickly gained, and in a few minutes they reached the ship, and,
+unfurling the sails, they sought the shores of Antigua, where
+they arrived in safety.</p>
+
+<p>Hitherto all was well. Happy in again seeing her husband, and
+knowing herself and child were safe, that lady still took
+comfort, although mourning the untimely fate of her other
+darling. But this did not last long. Other thoughts arose in her
+husband’s breast​—​thoughts too horrible to mention.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Oh! what dreadful minutes tells he o’er,<br/>
+    Who dotes, still doubts; suspects, yet strongly loves.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">In vain his poor unhappy wife protested she was pure.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Jealousy is a green-eyed monster,<br/>
+    That doth mock the food it feeds upon;”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">and by its whispers drove him, who was the affectionate friend
+and protector, to be the harsh and implacable tyrant. No longer
+enjoying the society of his wife, he determined to get rid of
+her; and for this purpose built a keep in Ding-a-Ding Nook, and,
+conveying his wife hither, left her to wear away her life in
+hopeless misery.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a id="p15" class="pagenumber" title="Nonsuch Harbour."></a>This is the legend; and well might that Nook be selected for such
+a place of seclusion, for it is a valley completely shut in by
+the surrounding mountains, and open only to the sea. I have heard
+another version of this story, which says, the governor and his
+lady parted by mutual consent, and that it was her wish to have a
+house built in that spot. Surely, if this was the case, she must
+have had the taste of an anchorite.</p>
+
+<p>Between the period of Mrs. Warner’s abduction and the year 1666,
+the Caribs carried away the wives and children of many of the
+respectable settlers. Among them, we find mentioned Mrs. Cardin
+and children, Mrs. Taylor and children, Mrs. Chrew and children,
+Mrs. Lynch and children, Mrs. Lee, wife of Captain Lee, and many
+other females. Mrs. Lee was detained prisoner for three years,
+after the Caribs had murdered her husband, and many other
+Englishmen, the truth of which is attested by the following
+extract from a letter written by J. Daniel, auditor-general to
+the expedition under Pen and Venables, to Oliver Cromwell,
+lord-protector of England, dated 3rd June, 1655:—​“Mrs. Lee, wife
+of Captain Lee, was carried away by the Caribs, and kept prisoner
+three years at Dominica, her husband and many English
+slaughtered.” This statement immediately dispels the hypothesis
+(which some writers have entertained) of Captain Lee being the
+erector of the keep at Ding-a-Ding Nook; and, consequently, fixes
+more firmly the truth of Mrs. Warner being the heroine of the
+preceding legend.</p>
+
+<p>To return once more to our chronological record. In 1647, the
+ship “Nonsuch,” Captain Middleton, owner, arrived at Antigua,
+which gave the name to Nonsuch Harbour, having anchored in that
+port. This was one of three vessels which had been fitted out
+from England by Colonel, afterwards Sir Thomas, Modiford, in
+order to form a plantation in this island. During the passage,
+the “Achilles,” the larger vessel of the expedition, of 300 tons
+burden, William Crowder, owner and master, parted company with
+<a id="p16" class="pagenumber" title="Captain-General appointed."></a>
+the “Nonsuch,” which proceeded to Antigua alone. The “Achilles,”
+after being out at sea for many weeks, put into Barbados in
+distress, being infected with a disease which caused great
+mortality among the men. During Colonel Modiford’s stay at
+Barbados, it was represented to him how far more advantageous it
+would be to purchase an estate in that island, already planted,
+and from which immediate emolument might be derived, than to
+proceed to an infant colony, where he would have to undergo all
+the fatigues and privations incident upon establishing a
+plantation. Colonel Modiford, listening to this advice, purchased
+the half of an estate for 7000<i class="currency">l.</i>, an immense sum at that day,
+and thus constituted himself a Barbados planter, instead of
+adhering to his first resolution, of becoming a settler of
+Antigua. Sir Thomas Modiford afterwards removed to the
+newly-gained English colony of Jamaica, of which island he was
+appointed governor in 1663, and where he resigned his breath in
+1679. The Earl of Warwick had been appointed captain-general of
+<i>all the West Indies</i> in 1643, but he does not appear to have
+assumed the command; for, in 1648, after the demise of Sir Thomas
+Warner, we find Colonel Rich become governor of St.
+Christopher’s, Colonel Lake<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref7" href="#note7">7</a>]</sup> of Nevis, and Colonel Edward
+Warner of Antigua. How long this latter gentleman retained his
+situation is uncertain; but, about the year 1651-2, a Mr. Everard
+is mentioned as holding the government of the leeward West India
+islands. An official document, however, written in the year 1655,
+speaks of a gentleman of that name as governor of St. Kitt’s
+only.</p>
+
+<p>Antigua, among most of the other colonies in this quarter
+<a id="p17" class="pagenumber" title="Defeat of the Caribs."></a>of the
+globe, refusing to acknowledge the rights of the Protector, Sir
+George Ayscue was sent with a squadron to reduce them. This
+island soon yielded to the Commonwealth’s banner, and Colonel
+Christopher Reynall was appointed governor, instead of the
+individual who had so daringly withstood the parliamentary power.</p>
+
+<p>In 1654, the Caribs again made a descent upon Antigua; but the
+English were enabled to repel their invaders, and effect such
+slaughter among them, that but few escaped to tell the tale. This
+victory appears to have intimidated the Indians; and for the next
+two or three years, the island had rest from their relentless
+invasions. About this period, Antigua was a prey to great
+dissensions between the governor and the governed. Complaints
+were forwarded by the inhabitants to Barbados, praying the
+governor of that island to use his influence in endeavouring to
+put a stop to their internal distractions. On the other hand, the
+Governor of Antigua, Colonel Christopher Reynall, wrote to the
+Lord Protector, imploring his Highness to take the island under
+his more particular command, and, by his authority, quell the
+disaffections which had so unfortunately crept in among them. The
+following letter from the Governor of Antigua, and the extract
+from one written by Daniel Searle, Esq., Governor of Barbados,
+are taken from “Thurloe’s State Papers”:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="letintro">Copy of a letter from Christopher Reynall, Governor of Antigua,
+  to the Lord Protector of England, Oliver Cromwell.</p>
+
+<p>“May it please your Highness,</p>
+
+<p class="letfirst">“Upon the reducement of these parts in that expedition of
+Sir George Ayscue’s employ, I was by him and the other
+commissioners, then empowered and commissioned to be <i>governor</i>
+and <i>commander-in-chief</i> of this island of Antigua, in relation
+and obedience to the Commonwealth of England, which, to the best
+of my endeavours, I hope in my instrument,
+<a id="p18" class="pagenumber" title="Colonel Reynall’s letter."></a>I have faithfully
+performed; in the progress of which my employ being, I have
+received by several advice, that it was and is thought meet, and
+so established by the Great Council and Estate of England, with
+your Highnesses consent and acceptation, that the government of
+our nation and dominions remain in yourself as Lord Protector; a
+thing most acceptable to me, who do most faithfully wish your
+Highness and the Commonwealth welfare and happiness; and, in
+manifestation thereof, have cheerfully acknowledged and submitted
+to all such mandates or expresses which hath hitherto come in the
+name of the Lord Protector. But in our private consultations,
+considering of <i>many spirits amongst us</i>, doubting their
+satisfactions have not attained the title of our ...... or
+......; according to our desires and intentions, lest an
+ill-affected party should presume to take an advantage thereby in
+pretending, as some have already given out, that there were no
+power of government, but all as libertine, until a new commission
+came from your Highness; which, by that means might endanger the
+place to a confusion and ruin: so render us incapable of that
+service we desire to perform to your Highness and the
+Commonwealth. The place of itself (if encouragement and small
+help were afforded) being <span class="sc">of consequence, by reason of the
+fertility of the soil</span>, and exceeding all others settled in these
+parts, in <span class="sc">convenient</span> and <span class="sc">safe harbours</span>​—​I, in relation to the
+promises and my loyalty to your Highness and the Commonwealth, do
+prostrate my humble desire at the feet of your Highness’s care
+and justice, as so far to take up the people and place into your
+consideration, as to give such orders and directions as may put
+us not only in the condition of walking inoffensively, but also
+as we may be serviceable to your Highness and the Commonwealth,
+which is the hearty desire of</p>
+
+<p class="letyours">“Your most obedient subject and servant,</p>
+<p class="signature">(Signed) “<span class="sc">Christopher Reynall.</span></p>
+
+<p class="letintro"><small>“From the Island of Antigua, in the parts of America,</small></p>
+<p class="letfirst"><small>“Aug. 20th, 1654.”</small></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a id="p19" class="pagenumber" title="Governor Searle’s letter."></a>
+The extract from Governor Searle’s letter, dated from Barbados,
+Nov. 7th, 1655, and addressed to Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector,
+&amp;c., is as follows:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>“Some addresses have likewise been made unto me, by Mr. Jos. Lee,
+Mr. Benjamin Langham, and Richard Farley, inhabitants of Antego,
+in behalf of themselves and the people of that colony, concerning
+some distractions among them, and the present unsettled and
+desturbed condition of that colony. But finding I have no power
+to take cognizance of anything of that nature, without the bounds
+of this colony, without a special order from your Highness, I
+have transmitted their complaints, and the state of the matter in
+difference betwixt them and the governor going off, which your
+Highness will here receive.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1665, Antigua joined with Barbados, St. Christopher’s, and
+Nevis, in levying troops to join the intended expedition of
+Admiral Pen and General Venables, (of which accounts had been
+received from England,) in their projected attack upon St.
+Domingo​—​an island at that period under the power of Spain, but
+which Cromwell was very desirous of obtaining. From the copy of a
+State paper, it appears, however, that upon the arrival of the
+Commonwealth fleet, the Governor of Antigua, Christopher Reynall,
+represented to the commanders of the expedition, the disastrous
+state of the island, from the frequent, and particularly the
+<i>late</i>, molestations of the Caribs;—​a fact so clearly presented
+to Pen and Venables, that they would not lessen the force of the
+place, by impressing any of its inhabitants for soldiers. They,
+therefore, remained only two days at Antigua, during which period
+they proclaimed the Protector with great pomp; and then proceeded
+to St. Christopher’s, and the other leeward islands, where they
+procured a sufficient complement of men. I am sorry, however,
+that an historian of great fame states, “the troops raised in the
+West Indies were the most profligate of mankind.”</p>
+
+<p><a id="p20" class="pagenumber" title="Pen and Venables’ expedition."></a>
+As Antigua did not eventually join in this expedition, it will be
+sufficient to remark, that the attack upon St. Domingo was very
+disastrous; for, although upon the first approach of the English,
+the Spaniards left their town and fled into the woods, the troops
+did not follow up their advantage. Venables allowed the soldiers
+to disembark, without a guide, ten miles from the capital; and,
+wandering about without any fixed purpose for the space of four
+days, they gave the Spaniards time to recover themselves from
+their alarm, and, rushing from their place of concealment, they
+fell upon the English, who were almost dead with fatigue and
+hunger, killed six hundred of them, and drove the remainder on
+board their vessels. In order to atone for their indiscretions,
+the English commanders resolved to proceed against Jamaica, also
+under the dominion of Spain, and which island immediately
+surrendered to the English flag, without a blow being struck in
+its defence. Colonel Doyly being appointed governor of the new
+gained colony, with about 3000 land forces under his command, and
+a fleet of men-of-war under Vice-Admiral Goodson, Pen and
+Venables prepared to return home. Landing the West India troops
+at their respective islands, the commanders sailed for England;
+but, upon their arrival, they were both sent to the Tower, for
+their failure upon St. Domingo, entirely owing to their want of
+proper conduct as English officers.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the Restoration, Antigua held out for the Commonwealth, as
+strenuously as in 1651 it had opposed the pretensions of
+Cromwell, and for this cause, Charles II. appointed Major-General
+Poyntz, a former deserter from the Parliamentary power, to act as
+governor, which situation he filled until 1663, when Lord Francis
+Willoughby, of Parham, obtained a grant of the entire island from
+Charles II. as a reward for his eminent services in the cause of
+that monarch; and Major-General Poyntz retired to Virginia.
+During the period this latter gentleman resided at Antigua as
+governor, he owned and planted an estate called by him Cassada
+Garden, a title which it still bears.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note4" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref4">4</a>] The following extract alludes to the invasions of the Caribs
+(Rochfort’s Histoire des Antilles, published at Rotterdam, 1665,
+tome 4, page 310):—​“Les Caraibs ont fait des descent dans les
+isles de Montserrat, d’Antigoa, et en d’autres qui sont occupées
+par les Anglais, et après avoir brulé quelques maisons, et pillé
+quelques meubles; ils ont enlevé des hommes, des femmes et des
+enfans, qu’ils ont conduit à la Dominique et à St. Vincents.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note5" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref5">5</a>] An estate in Antigua called by that name.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note6" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref6">6</a>] This rock is still pointed out upon an estate, called
+Patterson’s, belonging to the Hon. John Athill.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note7" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref7">7</a>] The proper appellation of this gentleman (according to the
+authority of E. S. B———, Esq.) is Colonel <i>Luke Stokes</i>; but,
+from an orthographical error of the French historian, <i>Du
+Tertre</i>, he has been handed down to posterity as Colonel <i>Lake</i>.
+He afterwards removed to Jamaica at the head of a small party of
+English settlers, where he died in 1659, universally esteemed for
+his virtues and honourable actions.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch3" class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a id="p21" class="pagenumber" title="War between France and England."></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Rupture between France and England​—​War in the
+West Indies​—​Loss of Lord Francis Willoughby​—​Colonel
+Carden​—​Capture of Antigua by the French forces under M. de la
+Barre​—​Colonel Fitche​—​Restoration of Antigua by the
+Treaty of Breda​—​Death of Colonel Carden​—​Biographical
+notices.</p>
+
+<p class="init">In 1665-6, England was engaged in a contest with Holland,
+Denmark, and France; and during that period, her colonies in the
+West Indies suffered greatly, particularly St. Christopher’s and
+Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>St. Christopher’s being reduced by the French, Lord Francis
+Willoughby headed an expedition of 2000 troops, and sailed from
+Barbados (where he was then residing in preference to Antigua)
+with the hope of recapturing that island. On his passage to St.
+Christopher’s, he visited Martinique, with the design of
+surprising the place, and, after taking the French prisoners, to
+transport them to Antigua, Montserrat, and Nevis. The French,
+however, having received tidings of his movements, were
+accordingly prepared; and Lord Willoughby, finding himself
+baffled in his intentions, sailed for Guadaloupe, where he
+arrived on the 2nd of August. Before any success was effected
+against this island, a dreadful hurricane arose, which, raging
+with extreme violence for the space of twenty-four hours,
+entirely destroyed the fleet of Lord Willoughby, strewing the
+coast with its fragments, and every soul perished, with the
+exception of two seamen.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref8" href="#note8">8</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>Before embarking upon this expedition, this ill-fated nobleman
+appointed his nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby, lieutenant-general
+and governor of these islands, who in his turn constituted
+Colonel Carden governor of Antigua.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p22" class="pagenumber" title="French settlers in Antigua."></a>
+Before the declaration of war between France and England was
+published, several Frenchmen had left the French colonies, from
+different motives, and settled in Antigua, where they lived
+sociably with the English, and prosecuted their respective
+professions. After the rupture between those nations was known in
+the West Indies, and the report of the intended attack upon St.
+Christopher’s by the French, reached the ears of Lord F.
+Willoughby, he dispatched his nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby, to
+the relief of that place. Arriving, however, too late for the
+action, he was obliged to proceed with his ship to Antigua; and
+being (according to Du Tertre, the French historian) in “<i>a
+burning rage</i>” at the failure of his plans, he vented it upon the
+French settlers whom he found there​—​confiscating their property,
+forbidding them to quit their houses, or hold communications
+between themselves, under pain of death, and obliging them to
+swear allegiance to the English monarch.</p>
+
+<p>“Many of them submitted, in a very cowardly manner,” remarks the
+above-named quaint author; “but others, <i>whose heart was in a
+better place, refused to do so</i>.”</p>
+
+<p>Among these French settlers was a young surgeon, of the name of
+Grand-Maison, who had been formerly <i lang="fr">valet-de-chambre</i> to M. de
+la Barre, lieutenant-general by sea and land of the French
+forces, and who was fully alive to the tyrannical manner in which
+himself and his countrymen had been treated. Having a little more
+liberty than the others, from the nature of his profession,
+Grand-Maison had an opportunity of entering into conversation
+with another young Frenchman, of the name of Baston, who, says Du
+Tertre, “was skilful by sea and land, courageous and brave, and
+an admirer of firmness and constancy.” Finding Grand-Maison
+entertained the same sentiments as himself, he proposed that they
+should steal a small shallop, which was attached by an iron chain
+to a post firmly planted in the beach, and taking advantage of
+the darkness of the night, effect their escape from the island.
+As, however, the oars had been carried
+<a id="p23" class="pagenumber" title="Flight of Grand-Maison and others."></a>
+away by the owner of the
+boat, they bribed a French carpenter, who was engaged working in
+some of the back woods of Antigua, to join them in their
+enterprise, and make them a pair in that retired place.</p>
+
+<p>Grand-Maison, who served a very rich master,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref9" href="#note9">9</a>]</sup> took the charge
+of bringing a sufficient quantity of provisions from his home;
+and between them they procured five muskets, a few pairs of
+pistols, some cutlasses, twenty or thirty pounds of powder, and
+lead in proportion. But thinking themselves not strong enough to
+man the shallop, Grand-Maison, who was very much beloved by the
+negroes, engaged two of them, who were esteemed excellent rowers,
+to accompany him.</p>
+
+<p>All things being duly prepared, they stole away from their
+masters by night, hurried to the beach, and the carpenter having
+sawn in two the post to which the boat was fastened, they
+departed, and made for Guadaloupe. After struggling manfully
+against the current and contrary winds for some time, running
+many risks of their lives, and putting back into Antigua once or
+twice, they changed their resolution, and made for St.
+Christopher’s​—​arriving in Cabsterre, a district of that island,
+at the very time M. de Chambre was on the point of sailing for
+Martinique, to rejoin M. de la Barre, with all the French ships
+of war.</p>
+
+<p>M. Sannois, captain of that district, welcomed the adventurers,
+and treated them very kindly; and upon hearing their story, sent
+them to M. de St. Laurent, who, after examining them, and finding
+them well informed of the strength and natural barriers of
+Antigua​—​and more particularly, as Baston gave him a plan of the
+coast, shewing the best landing-places, and offered himself as a
+guide to the troops, to lead
+<a id="p24" class="pagenumber" title="A conquest contemplated."></a>
+them to the place “wherever
+resistance might be expected,” and to be <i>everywhere</i> “at their
+head,”​—​he determined to send them with M. de Chambre to M. de la
+Barre, at Martinique.</p>
+
+<p>Upon their arrival at that island, at counsel was held, and
+Grand-Maison and Baston introduced, when the latter repeated his
+offers. The assembly was well pleased with his information and
+solid reflections; but M. de Chambre represented, that the
+officers of the French forces were so contented with the conquest
+of St. Kitts, that he thought they would be unwilling to engage
+in any new adventure, unless there was an augmentation of the
+troops. To this objection M. Clodoré, the Governor of Martinique,
+replied, in such a splendid speech, abounding with so much true
+martial ardour, that every objection was borne down before him;
+and M. de Chambre was led to observe, that if M. St. Laurent had
+heard the powerful arguments brought forward by M. de Clodoré, he
+would change his opinion, and join in attacking Antigua; and he
+did not believe M. St. Leon, (the commanding officer,) with his
+brother officers, would even stand firm in their resolution after
+hearing him. M. de Chambre then asked M. Clodoré if he would
+accompany him to St. Christopher’s, to consult with the other
+officers. M. Clodoré immediately replied he should be most happy
+to do so, if M. de la Barre would give him such instructions in
+writing; which being directly complied with, they made sail 25th
+October, 1666, with seven vessels of war, carrying 166 pieces of
+cannon, and commanded by M. de la Barre, admiral of the whole
+fleet; M. de Clodoré, Governor of Martinique; M. du Lion,
+Governor of Guadaloupe; M. de Chambre, Intendant of the French
+West Indian Company’s affairs; and attended by 130 men of the
+regiment of Poictiers, commanded by Sieur d’Orvillier, and two
+companies of infantry, besides the seamen.</p>
+
+<p>Calling in at Guadaloupe, they held another council of war, in
+which it was determined to sail for St. Kitt’s; but
+<a id="p25" class="pagenumber" title="Landing of the French."></a>
+at the same time to come so near to Antigua as to be able
+to reconnoitre the island, and ascertain if it would be prudent
+to attack it before they proceeded to St. Christopher’s.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Guadaloupe on the 2nd November, they made sail for
+Antigua, bearing the English flag as a subterfuge, and thinking
+by that means to deceive the English. Upon reaching Antigua, they
+endeavoured to get into the harbour of St. John’s; but meeting
+with contrary winds, they put back and made for Five Islands’
+Bay, which at that period was defended by two forts​—​the smaller
+one (which appears to have been only an artificial mound, without
+any parapets or any kind of fortifications) mounted with six
+guns; the larger one (with good stone buildings, and standing in
+that part now occupied by the batteries of “Goat’s Hill”) mounted
+with eight guns. The men stationed at the smaller fort had their
+suspicions first awakened by observing how carefully the French
+came in, sounding with the lead every moment; and consequently
+they determined to fire upon them.</p>
+
+<p>To this <i>warm</i> welcome the French replied in such a manner,
+bringing all their guns to bear upon the place, that the English
+abandoned the fort, and fled. Arriving abreast of the larger
+fort, the French anchored at pistol-shot; and the firing was
+carried on with such vigour, that it was also abandoned, and that
+with such precipitancy, that the royal flag was left behind.</p>
+
+<p>The signal was now made for a party to land and take possession
+of the forts, with directions to capture all they could, but not
+to burn or destroy any part of the country, wisely remarking,
+according to their own narrator, that “they could do that another
+time.” These orders for forbearance, if they were ever given,
+were not attended to; for everything that fell in their way was
+devastated; and it has been remarked by an old author, that the
+French robbed the very shoes from off the feet of the
+inhabitants.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref10" href="#note10">10</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p><a id="p26" class="pagenumber" title="Excesses of the French."></a>
+But to return to the particulars of the attack. The next morning,
+about four o’clock, M. de Clodoré, &amp;c., attended by 200 men,
+landed upon the beach, and, guided by Baston, proceeded to the
+house where the governor, Colonel Carden, then resided, which was
+situated about a mile and a half from the shore. The English
+fought with their usual bravery, but were at length overpowered;
+and Colonel Carden, Colonel Monk, and about thirty other
+officers, were taken prisoners, and the house burnt to the
+ground.</p>
+
+<p>The governor, being thus captured, was conveyed on board the
+admiral’s ship; and the French were so elated with their success,
+that they determined to push on their good fortune, and endeavour
+to subdue the whole island. The next day, they again landed at
+daybreak, attended by 240 men, divided into two companies, and
+guided by Baston. Reaching a large house situated upon a hill,
+they dispatched a trumpeter to summon the inhabitants to
+surrender, among whom was Mrs. Carden, the wife of the governor.
+This trumpeter carried a letter, written by Colonel Carden,
+describing how well he was treated(?), and advising them not to
+wait to the last extremity to surrender, but to do so without
+delay. To this letter they returned a verbal answer, thanking the
+French for their polite treatment to their governor, but at the
+same time intimating, that they were resolved to do their duty,
+and resist to the last.</p>
+
+<p>Upon receiving this reply, the French commanders prepared for
+battle, and resolved to storm the house. At first
+<a id="p27" class="pagenumber" title="Death of Baston."></a>
+they were repulsed by the English; and the greater part of
+the regiment of Poictiers, commanded by the Sieur d’Orvillier,
+being seized with a panic, retreated and concealed
+themselves in a neighbouring wood; but Mons. de Clodoré,
+seeing the state of affairs, hurried to the spot, and, being
+joined by the officers of the regiment and about thirty of the
+common soldiers, whom they had prevailed upon to leave
+their concealment, made a second attack upon the house,
+and succeeded in forcing an entrance.</p>
+
+<p>A battalion of the English making their appearance upon the hill
+behind the house, M. de Clodoré drew off his men to engage with
+them, while D’Orvillier and the rest of the party were left in
+charge of the edifice. Upon entering, they found Colonel Quest
+(who had taken the command of the island after the seizure of
+Colonel Carden) seated “in an arm-chair, with a pair of pistols
+cocked in his hand,” and surrounded by a few brave English.
+Colonel Quest demanded quarter, to which a Frenchman replied by
+sending a ball through his body; and the rest of the English who
+were with him, were slaughtered without mercy.</p>
+
+<p>In justice to M. de Clodoré, it must be remarked, that as soon as
+he knew of these proceedings, he endeavoured to put a stop to
+them, and finally saved the lives of about fifty English, who had
+concealed themselves in another part of the house.</p>
+
+<p>After burning down the edifice, and many others in the
+vicinity​—​which were described as being very handsome ones​—​killing
+fifty of the English, and getting all the plunder they could, the
+French proceeded to the beach, carrying their prisoners, about
+fifty in number, along with them. Upon arriving there, it was
+agreed to ship them immediately, and despatch them to St. Kitts,
+with the wounded Frenchmen, among whom was Baston, the instigator
+of the attack, and who afterwards died of his wound at that
+island.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref11" href="#note11">11</a>]</sup> When
+<a id="p28" class="pagenumber" title="Death of Colonel Quest."></a>
+Colonel Quest was to be carried down to the
+beach along with the other prisoners, he was found to be so
+seriously wounded, that he was unable to walk; and consequently,
+one of the French officers proposed to despatch him, offering to
+do the deed himself. At this barbarous scheme, M. de Clodoré was
+justly incensed; and, ordering a few of his soldiers to form a
+kind of bier, had him carefully conducted on board the ship that
+was to carry him to St. Kitts, in which island he also died.</p>
+
+<p>After getting rid of their prisoners, the French held another
+council of war, when it was resolved to send a trumpeter,
+summoning all the inhabitants to surrender, threatening to set
+fire to all their property should they demur. A compliance with
+this demand appears to have been wholly unexpected by the French,
+and their threat of burning only a species of <i>bravado</i>; for at
+this council it was resolved, that if the English held out, they
+would immediately sail for St. Christopher’s with the whole
+fleet. Fate, however, willed it otherwise, and the trumpeter
+brought answer back, that the English were willing to accede to
+their demand, and desired a place to be appointed in which to
+treat about the terms of capitulation. Overjoyed at their
+unexpected success, the French named the harbour of St. John’s as
+the place of treaty; and accordingly despatched one of their
+frigates​—​the “Armes d’Angleterre,” on board of which the
+conference was to be held. On the tenth of November, 1666, M. de
+Clodoré, M. de Chambre, &amp;c. &amp;c., accompanied by four shallops,
+containing eighty armed men, proceeded on board that vessel, and
+were quickly joined by Lieut.-Colonel Bastien Baijer, Colonel
+Buckley, Joseph Lee, Captain Samuel Winthorp,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref12" href="#note12">12</a>]</sup> Captain Philip
+Warner, and James Halliday, who were appointed by the English to
+sign the capitulation.</p>
+
+<p>All arms, ammunition, forts, batteries, &amp;c., were to be given up
+to the French; but the English were to be allowed
+<a id="p29" class="pagenumber" title="Capitulation of the English."></a>
+to retain their
+property, have free exercise of their religion; (except in that
+immediate district which the French governor might choose as his
+quarters;) and Colonel Carden, who had been detained prisoner of
+war on board one of the enemy’s vessels, was to be restored to
+liberty.</p>
+
+<p>After signing the capitulation, on the 12th of November, the
+English deputies despatched Colonel Buckley on board the “Armes
+d’Angleterre,” with the information that there were three hundred
+soldiers arrived from Barbados, which would prevent them from
+fulfilling their part of the treaty; <i>but that if the French
+thought proper to hazard an attack, they (the deputies) would not
+interfere</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Upon receiving this message, the greater part of the French
+officers were for detaining Colonel Buckley as an hostage, as
+well as refusing to liberate Colonel Carden; but to this M. de
+Clodoré would not assent, remarking that as he had given his word
+to restore Colonel Carden to liberty, and Colonel Buckley had
+come on board under protection of a flag of truce, they should
+both be conveyed safely to land. This was accordingly done the
+same day; but Monsieur Giraud, the head commander of St. Kitts,
+seeing Colonel Buckley on shore, and not being aware of M. de la
+Barre’s intentions towards him, had him seized and conveyed on
+board the admiral’s ship; who, being of different opinion to M.
+de Clodoré, detained him as a hostage; and the whole of the
+French forces having embarked, the fleet sailed for St. Kitts,
+where they arrived on the 15th of November.</p>
+
+<p>After remaining there a few days, M. de Clodoré sailed for
+Martinique to transact some necessary business, and then,
+accompanied by a fleet of six frigates, returned to Antigua, to
+oblige the inhabitants to fulfil the treaty they had signed. He
+arrived on the 30th of November, but found the state of affairs
+entirely changed, Mr. Willoughby having appointed Colonel Daniel
+Fitche, (who upon the former visit of the French was staying at
+Nevis,) governor of Antigua, in
+<a id="p30" class="pagenumber" title="Arrest of Colonel Carden."></a>
+place of Colonel Carden, and the
+island being reinforced by the arrival of some troops from
+Barbados.</p>
+
+<p>Surprised but not intimidated, M. de Clodoré, with the
+concurrence of his principal officers, sent a trumpeter to
+Colonel Carden, calling upon him to fulfil the treaty, and oblige
+the inhabitants to surrender. This message was received by
+Colonel Carden in the presence of some of the English officers;
+but the same night, by the order of Colonel Fitche, (who was
+displeased at his expressing his opinion, that it was but
+equitable to stand by their written contract,) he was arrested
+and sent to prison. Upon this occasion, Mrs. Carden despatched
+the following letter to M. de Clodoré:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>“Mons.,</p>
+<p class="letfirst">“Mon mary cette nuit a esté enlevé d’auprés de moy par deux
+officers et deux soldats, et ce qu’ils pretendent faire de moy et
+des miens, jusqu’à present ie n’en sçay encore rien; mais en
+crains qu’il ne nous en arrive mal. Je vous supplie
+tres-humblement, Monsieur, voyant que moy, les mien, et ma
+famille est delaissée et abandonée de nostre nation; qu’il vous
+plaise nous prendre sous votre protection, nous qui n’avons levé
+la main ni le cœur contre vous; et moy et les miens, et beaucoup
+d’autres, prieront pour vostre prosperité et ie prend la
+hardiesse de me qualifier,</p>
+<p class="letyours">“Monsieur, vostres, &amp;c.</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Marie Carden</span>.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref13" href="#note13">13</a>]</sup></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>[N.B.—These letters are literally transcribed.]</p>
+
+<p><a id="p31" class="pagenumber" title="Ratification of the treaty refused."></a>
+Upon the same day, Colonel Carden despatched the following letter
+to M. de Clodoré:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>“Monsieur,</p>
+<p class="letfirst">“J’aurois eu l’honneur de vous aller trouver, mais i’ay este
+intercepté par ordre de Mons. le Gouverneur Fitche, et il ne m’a
+pas esté permis de sortir. J’espere, Monsieur, que ne croirez, ni
+ne iugerez autre chose de celuy qui prend la liberté de se
+souscrire,​—Mons., votres, &amp;c.</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Robert Carden</span>.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref14" href="#note14">14</a>]</sup></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Soon after sending this letter, Colonel Carden was liberated, and
+immediately proceeding on board the French ship, delivered
+himself up to M. de Clodoré, and informed him that Colonel Fitche
+and his troops were encamped at Pope’s Head. Upon hearing this,
+M. de Clodoré immediately weighed anchor, and sailing round the
+coast, arrived off Pope’s Head the same night. The next morning,
+the following letters were despatched to him from the English
+camp:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>“Monsieur,</p>
+<p class="letfirst">“Nous avons receu vos semonces de venir à bord delivrant en
+vostre possession nos armes et munitions de guerre; laquelle
+chose, le changement de nos affaires est tel depuis vostre
+depart, qu’il ne vous la peut pas permettre. Monsieur le
+Lieut.-General de nostre roy ayant envoyé icy le Col. Daniel
+Fitche pour son gouverneur, luy a donné pouvoir sur toute la
+milice de cette isle: si-bien, Mons., que nous sommes devenus
+tout-à-fait incapables de vous donner aucune reponse
+satisfactoire; et sur l’examination des affaires passées, a
+trouvé qu’elles estoient beaucoup à notres preiudice; et en
+particulier envoyant les Careibes deux fois sur nous contre
+l’obligation de vos articles, et les loix des nations,
+<a id="p32" class="pagenumber" title="Correspondence."></a>
+des
+personnes qui sont cruels, tout-à-fait barbares et ignorans de
+Dieu et de toutes civilitez. Neanmoins, Monsieur, nous vous
+supplions suivant ce que nous avons déiafait, d’en faire vos
+demandes à nostre dit gouverneur, qui est uniquement experimenté
+en matiere de guerre. En attendant nous demeurons,</p>
+<p class="letyours">“Monsieur, vos tres-humble serviteurs,</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Bastien Baijer</span>, &amp;c. &amp;c.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref15" href="#note15">15</a>]</sup></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>“Mons.,</p>
+<p class="letfirst">“Nous avons receu la vostre, à laquelle nous ne pouvons à
+present faire aucune reponse, si non qu’il n’est pas en nostre
+pouvoir de convenir à vos semonces, ni à aucunes choses cy-devant
+faites; parce que depuis vostre depart d’icy, est arrivé le Col.
+Daniel Fitche, avec commission de Monsieur le Lieut.-Gen. pour
+gouverneur, auquel vos semonces et demandes doivent estre faites,
+comme estant seul commandant de la milice. Nous trouvons que nous
+avons receu grand preiudice à la rupture des articles concernans
+les Careibes, qui ont deux fois attenté sur nous à leur maniere
+accoustumée, qui est cruelle et barbarienne. Nous serions reioüis
+de vous voir si le souhaittez; car on attend
+<a id="p33" class="pagenumber" title="Council of war."></a>
+icy quinze navires
+de la Barbade, dont il y en a cinq de trente pieces de canon
+chacun, et deux de soixante, et huit navires marchands de vingt à
+trente pieces de canon, avec mil soldats du roy vestus de
+casaques rouges, avec quantité d’armes: vous presentant vous
+rendrez service. Nous demeurons,</p>
+<p class="letyours">“Monsieur, vos asseurez amis et serviteurs,</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Bastien Baijer</span>, &amp;c. &amp;c.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref16" href="#note16">16</a>]</sup></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Upon receiving these letters, M. de Clodoré held a council with
+his officers, the results of which were as follow:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>“As the enemy have made no answer to our summons, sent three days
+ago, to fulfil the conditions of the treaty made with them; but,
+on the contrary, they have sent these letters this morning, in
+which, after having sought vain pretences of rupture, they
+declare they are not willing to fulfil it, and at the same time
+they have disposed guard-houses along the coast, and caused
+several armed persons to oppose our landing; it has been found
+proper to accept the rupture they have made of the treaty, and
+after having fired a cannon-ball at them, to land, in order to
+make them return to their duty, without paying regard to the
+letters they have sent. Besides the absence of Monsieur de la
+Barre, and the
+<a id="p34" class="pagenumber" title="The English agree to ratify the treaty."></a>
+necessity we are in to send back immediately the
+island troops to Martinique and Guadaloupe, to oppose the enemy,
+who, according to advices received, will soon arrive there, it is
+impossible now to keep the island of Antigua for the king. It has
+therefore been thought proper to land, attack the enemy, and, in
+case of success, place the island in such a state, that the enemy
+can draw no sort of profit from it.</p>
+
+<p>“Done unanimously between us, the undersigned, in the harbour of
+Antigua, the 3rd December, 1666.</p>
+<p class="signature">          “<span class="sc">De Clodore</span>,<br/>
+                                <span class="sc">Blondel</span>,<br/>
+                                <span class="sc">Hinsselin</span>.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>During the period the council was being held, several armed
+soldiers, (of the English troops,) impatient to know what answer
+would be returned to their letters, appeared upon the beach; upon
+which, according to the resolutions already passed, a cannon-ball
+was fired at them, when they dispersed, and appeared no more,
+without a white flag in their hand. Before the French council
+broke up, an English officer came on board, bringing the
+following letter for M. de Clodoré:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>“Monsieur,</p>
+<p class="letfirst">“Nous vous avons envoyé ce matin telle reponse que nous
+pouvions, estant sous le commandement et autorité de Mons. le
+Gouverneur, au pouvoir duquel n’estions pas capables de resister;
+mais depuis que nous luy avons fait voir amplement la raison de
+nostre premier traité et nostre refus de rompre, avons tant fait
+qu’il en est demeuré d’accord, moyennant qu’il y soit, compris
+comme le reste des habitans; le dit traité et accord sera
+ponctuellement ratifié et effectué en toutes ses particularitez.</p>
+<p class="letyours">“Monsieur, vos, &amp;c.,</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Bastien Baijer</span>, &amp;c. &amp;c.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref17" href="#note17">17</a>]</sup></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a id="p35" class="pagenumber" title="Landing of the French."></a>
+But paying no regard to this letter, M. de Clodoré wrote them as
+follows:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>“Messieurs,</p>
+<p class="letfirst">“J’ay esté fort surpris, lorsque j’ay veû que vous n’avez pas
+repondu à la sommation que ie vous ay fait faire, et encore
+davantage lorsque i’ay leû la lettre que vous m’avez envoyée ce
+matin, où vous nous accusez de vous avoir traité avec rigueur,
+pour chercher pretexte de rompre comme vous avez fait, en
+manquant à vostre foy et à vostre parolle. Je descends à terre et
+vous vais trouver, pour vous mettre à vostre devoir par la voye
+des armes: ceux qui les poseront, auront de moy bon quartier, et
+les autres seront traitez selon la rigueur de la guerre.</p>
+<p class="letyours">“Vostre serviteur,</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">De Clodore</span>.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref18" href="#note18">18</a>]</sup></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Immediately after sending this letter, M. de Clodoré and
+Hinscelin landed with the French forces; but, upon gaining the
+beach, they were met by a party of the English, bearing a flag of
+truce, and offering, in the name of the inhabitants, to give up
+all pretensions to this island, provided they would include
+Governor Fitche in the treaty.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p36" class="pagenumber" title="Escape of Colonel Fitche."></a>
+To this proposition M. de Clodoré would not assent, but forming
+his troops into battle array, marched to attack the English. The
+result of this encounter appears to me so remarkable, that it
+obliges me again and again to assure my readers I give the true
+translation: “marching to attack the new Governor and his eight
+or nine hundred men, only two shots were fired by the English,
+one of which wounded <i>their own sentinel</i>, and this was the only
+blood spilt in this engagement; and Governor Fitche hearing that
+M. de Clodoré was coming up with all his troops, and four pieces
+of artillery, ran away in a boat with Colonel Warner and some
+others, saying to his soldiers only these words​—​“God be with me,
+and with you.”</p>
+
+<p>Thus have I narrated the reduction of Antigua by the French,
+following the steps of their own historian, “Du Tertre,” who of
+course speaks in favour of his own countrymen. Antigua remained a
+French colony, although of no use to the nation, except from the
+plunder obtained from it, until the following year, when by the
+treaty of Breda, Louis XIV. restored it to the English crown.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref19" href="#note19">19</a>]</sup>
+The French appear to have ever doubted their success; and their
+attack upon Antigua, in the first instance, seemed only intended
+as a feint; but by one of those extraordinary accidents, which we
+often meet
+<a id="p37" class="pagenumber" title="Murder of Colonel Carden."></a>
+with in the annals of nations, the island was reduced,
+and in the second attack, if we may believe Du Tertre, <i>only two
+shots</i> were fired in its defence.</p>
+
+<p>At the period of this conquest of Antigua, there were about 800
+negroes upon the island, but of these the French could only find
+about 500, which they carried away with them, along with their
+plunder. The after fate of Colonel Carden was truly shocking.
+Soon after the French had abandoned Antigua, a party of Caribs
+landed, and cruelly treated the defenceless inhabitants. At
+length they proceeded to the house of the ex-governor, Colonel
+Carden, who treated them very kindly, and administered to their
+want. Upon their leaving, they requested their entertainer to
+accompany them to the beach, who instantly complied; but the
+Caribs, more treacherous than the wild beasts that haunt the
+desert, had no sooner reached the place where their canoes were
+stationed, than they fell upon their kind host, cruelly murdered
+him, and broiled his head, which they afterwards carried with
+them to Dominica. Nor were they satisfied with this horrible
+piece of barbarity; for, to make the tragedy complete, they
+returned to Colonel Carden’s house, seized his wife and children,
+and after telling them of the fate of their kind relative,
+hurried them away into a captivity worse than death.</p>
+
+<p>The Bastian Baijer​—​whose name appears conspicuous in signing the
+capitulation, and in the after letters which passed between the
+English and the French​—​was of Dutch extraction, and one who
+emigrated to this island at an early period of its colonization.
+He died in London, in the year 1704, and in his will directed
+that his remains should be interred in the vaults of the Dutch
+church in Austin Friars, which was accordingly done. Many of the
+descendants (or rather representatives, for Bastian Baijer died
+without issue, and left his property to the person who assumed
+his name) of Bastian Baijer have resided in the island until
+within a year or two. The remains of one member of that family,
+Otto Baijer, Esq., moulders beneath the beautiful tomb, a
+<a id="p38" class="pagenumber" title="Lord William Willoughby."></a>
+description of which will be found in Chapter XV.; and the
+remaining scion of the house, a female, was shortly since united
+to the Hon. Owen Pell, of Antigua, and of Suwell, county of
+Northampton.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note8" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref8">8</a>] It is said, that some part of Lord Willoughby’s fleet escaped
+the hurricane, and reached Jamaica in safety.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note9" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref9">9</a>] It must be remembered, that at the time we are now speaking
+of, surgeons did not hold that respectable rank in society as
+they now​—​that is, most of them​—​deservedly fill. Not so very many
+years ago, naval surgeons in particular were very little thought
+of; and even in the British navy, they were required to perform
+the office of barber, as well as attend to the bodily ailments of
+the crew.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note10" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref10">10</a>] To shew the state to which the French reduced the island,
+the following extract from a letter written by Count D’Estrade,
+ambassador from the French king to Charles II. of England, dated
+26th May, 1667, and addressed to Louis XIV., is inserted:—​“Il
+nous dit de plus que le Sieur de la Barre avat ruiné celle
+d’Antigoa, et en avait fait transporter tout ce qu’il avait pu
+afin d’être mieux en etat de conserver de St. Christophe.”</p>
+
+<p><i>Translation</i>.​—​“He”​—​that is, the deputy from Zealand, with whom
+Count D’Estrade had had a conference at Breda, on 21st May,
+1667​—​“informed us, in addition, that the said M. de la Barre had
+ruined the colony of Antigua, and had taken and transported from
+it all that he could, to the end that he might be in a better
+condition to retain possession of St. Christopher’s.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note11" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref11">11</a>] His tombstone may be still seen in one of the churchyards of
+St. Christopher’s.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note12" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref12">12</a>] For account of this gentleman, see Appendix, No. 3.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note13" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref13">13</a>] “Sir,​—​My husband has been arrested by two officers and two
+soldiers this night, and what they intend doing with me and my
+family, I know not even now; but I fear that some ill
+consequences will attend it. I beseech you humbly, Sir, seeing
+that myself and family are abandoned by our countrymen, that it
+may please you to protect us who have never assailed you; and
+myself, and family, and many others, shall pray for your
+prosperity; and I take the boldness to qualify myself,</p>
+<p class="letyours">“Sir, your very humble and very obedient servant,</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Mary Carden</span>.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note14" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref14">14</a>] “Sir,​—​I should have had the honour of waiting upon you, but
+I have been intercepted by the order of Governor Fitche, and I
+have been in custody since. I hope, Sir, you will not believe or
+think otherwise of him who takes the liberty of subscribing
+himself, Sir, yours, &amp;c.,</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Robert Carden</span>.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note15" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref15">15</a>] “Sir,​—​We have received your summons to come on board to
+deliver our arms and ammunition; which thing, such is the change
+in our affairs since your departure, as not to permit of our
+doing. The lieut.-general of our king having sent Colonel Daniel
+Fitche as his governor, has given him power over all the militia
+of this island. Thus, Sir, we are become entirely unable to give
+you any satisfactory answer; and, upon examination of the
+transactions which have taken place, we have found that they were
+so much to our prejudice, and in particular, sending the Caribs
+twice upon us, against the obligation of your articles and the
+laws of nations; persons who are cruel, entirely barbarous, and
+ignorant of God and of all civilities. However, Sir, we pray you,
+as we have already done, to address your demands to our governor,
+who alone is experienced in matters of war. In the meantime, we
+remain, yours, &amp;c. &amp;c.,</p>
+<table id="sig1" class="signature">
+<tbody>
+<tr><td>“<span class="sc">Bastien Baijer.</span></td><td><span class="sc">Gilbert Gregory.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&#160;<span class="sc">Philip Warner.</span></td><td><span class="sc">Henry Reynall.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&#160;<span class="sc">Richard Boraston.</span></td><td><span class="sc">Jeremiah Watkins.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&#160;<span class="sc">Samuel Winthorpe.</span>”</td></tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note16" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref16">16</a>] “Sir,​—​We have received your letter, to which we cannot at
+present give any other answer, but that it is not in our power to
+yield to your summons, nor to agree to anything done before;
+because, since your departure from here, Colonel Daniel Fitche is
+arrived, with commission from the lieutenant-general as governor,
+in obedience to an order from the king, which has been published.
+It is to the said governor that your summons and demands must be
+addressed, for he is the sole commander of the militia. We think
+that we have suffered great injury at the rupture of the articles
+concerning the Caribs, who attacked us twice in their wonted
+manner, which is cruel and barbarous. We would be glad to see
+you, <i>if you wish</i>, for we expect here, fifteen ships from
+Barbados, five of which are of fifteen guns each, and two of
+sixty; and eight merchantmen, of twenty to thirty guns; with a
+thousand of the king’s soldiers, <i>dressed in their red jackets</i>,
+and a quantity of arms. By coming, you will render service. We
+remain, &amp;c.,</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Bastien Baijer</span>, &amp;c. &amp;c.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note17" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref17">17</a>] “Sir,​—​We have sent this morning the only answer we could
+give, being under the command and authority of the governor, to
+whose power we could not resist; but as we have shewn him the
+reason of our first treaty, and our refusal to break it, we have
+done so much that he has agreed with us, provided he be included
+in it, with the rest of the inhabitants: the said treaty and
+agreement will be punctually ratified and executed in all its
+parts.</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Bastien Baijer</span>, &amp;c. &amp;c.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note18" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref18">18</a>] “Gentlemen,​—​I have been much surprised when I saw that you
+made no answer to the summons given you, and much more yet when I
+read the letters you sent me this morning, in which you charge us
+with having treated you with rigour, which is seeking for a
+pretence of rupture, as you have done by not keeping your faith
+and word. I am landing and coming to you, to teach you your duty
+by force of arms: those who will lay down their arms will have
+good quarter from me, and the others shall be treated according
+to the rigour of war. Your servant,</p>
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">De Clodore</span>.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note19" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref19">19</a>] It was for some time pending in the mind of Louis XIV.
+whether he should, or should not, restore Antigua to its rightful
+sovereign; and several letters passed between the King of the
+French and his ambassador, Count D’Estrade, (the deputy from
+Zealand assuring the count that he would use his influence to
+retain Antigua for his majesty, should such be his wish,) upon
+the subject. At length, however, Louis XIV., after much
+hesitation, authorized its rendition by a letter to Count
+D’Estrade, dated 6th May, 1667, of which the following is a
+translation:—</p>
+
+<p>“I have always forgotten to inform you, and even to put it in
+your instructions, that it is my intention to surrender the
+island of Antigua to the English, which belonged to them before
+the war. Thus you will make no difficulty by promising, by the
+treaty (of Breda), that all things shall be established in the
+island of St. Christopher, and that of Antigua, as they were
+previously to the rupture,” &amp;c.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch4" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governors: Lord William Willoughby, Henry
+Willoughby​—​Arrival of Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the
+progenitor of the family of that name​—​Biographical
+remarks​—​Partition of the Caribbee Islands​—​Sir William
+Stapleton​—​General Council and Assembly​—​Colonel Philip
+Warner​—​Expedition against the Caribs​—​Death of Indian
+Warner​—​Arrest and trial of Colonel P.
+Warner​—​Acquittal​—​Dampier’s account of this
+affair​—​Captain Southey’s History of the Indian Warner.</p>
+
+<p class="init">After peace had been once more proclaimed between France and
+England, and Antigua restored to its rightful sovereign, the
+English government, being fully assured of the death of Lord
+Francis Willoughby, appointed Lord William Willoughby, of Parham,
+(who when the royalists rose against the parliament, after the
+deposition of Richard Cromwell, undertook to secure Lynn for his
+exiled majesty,) Captain-General and chief Governor of Barbados,
+Antigua, and the rest of the Leeward Caribbee Islands, as some
+reward for his services.</p>
+
+<p>Lord William Willoughby arrived at Antigua about 1668, and
+appointed Samuel Winthorpe his deputy-governor. During the first
+year of his lordship’s administration, a registrar’s office was
+established, and fees appointed for the same. The registrar and
+recorder was to be “a person of good discretion and honesty,” and
+his salary paid in sugar and tobacco.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref20" href="#note20">20</a>]</sup>
+<a id="p39" class="pagenumber" title="General Henry Willoughby."></a>
+Acts were also passed
+for the “settling the inhabitants in their lands” and “for the
+encouragement and promoting the settling of the island”​—​very
+necessary measures, as all was in confusion, from the late cruel
+dealing of the French, in so dismantling their promising colony.
+This year also (1668) commenced the four and a half per cent.
+duty; which was an impost upon all native productions shipped
+from the island, to be paid to the reigning monarch, his heirs,
+and successors, in consideration of new grants of lands being
+given to the inhabitants after the restoration of Antigua to the
+English crown; all old titles to lands having become void by
+reason of the late conquest, by the French.</p>
+
+<p>Lord William Willoughby removing to Barbados about this time,
+nominated his son, Henry Willoughby, as acting-governor, the same
+gentleman who was left by Lord F. Willoughby deputy-governor of
+Barbados during his absence upon the disastrous expedition
+already spoken of. Nothing of much importance occurred during the
+short period Mr. H. Willoughby held the government. War had not
+broken out in the West Indies, although it threatened the mother
+country, so that the Antiguans had a little quiet to settle their
+domestic affairs. One of the first points to which they turned
+their attention was to endeavour to suppress the strong habit of
+profane cursing and swearing which had crept in among their
+community, and also to put a stop to the prevalence of inebriety.
+To bring this desirable reformation about, the legislature
+enacted, that a fine of ten pounds of sugar, or tobacco, was to
+be imposed upon every one who uttered an oath, or opened his lips
+to curse; and if any one was discovered in a state of
+intoxication, he could be made to pay fifty pounds of sugar, or
+not being able to procure that quantity, and being possessed of
+no other property which could be levied upon, he was condemned to
+be placed in the public stocks for the space of four hours. It
+would be well if something of the kind was in force now; our ears
+<a id="p40" class="pagenumber" title="Lieutenant-General Byam."></a>
+would not then, perhaps, be so frequently shocked as they are
+liable to be at every hour of the day by the passers-by.
+Regulations were also made for establishing a public treasury in
+the island, and regard paid to the martial bearing of the
+inhabitants, by exercising them in the science of arms.</p>
+
+<p>Among the settlers who came to Antigua with Francis Lord
+Willoughby, of Parham, was William Byam, a distinguished
+royalist, at that time major, but who afterwards acquired the
+rank of lieutenant-general.</p>
+
+<p>In 1644, Mayor Byam was among the officers in garrison at
+Bridgewater, and being on guard when an attempt was made by the
+parliamentary army to take the town by surprise, he defeated the
+forces with great slaughter, thereby averting for some time the
+fate of that important fortress. On the following year, Cromwell
+and Fairfax coming against Bridgewater with an overwhelming
+power, after a gallant and desperate resistance, the town was
+taken, and quarter only given to the garrison. The officers were
+immediately sent to London, and put at the disposal of the
+Parliament, whence they were despatched to the Tower, and other
+public prisons. After remaining in the Tower for some months,
+Major Byam accepted a pass “to go beyond the seas,” (as the term
+then was,) and, with some of his military friends, he accordingly
+left the home of his fathers, and sought in Barbados​—​that last
+asylum for royalists​—​a retreat from the Oliverian power. Soon
+after his arrival, the important post of “treasurer of the
+island,” as well as “master of the ordnance,” was conferred upon
+him, together with large grants of land; but the number of
+<i>refugees</i> increasing in the colony to such a surprising height,
+the Parliament became alarmed, and, in 1651, sent a fleet and
+armament, under command of Sir George Ayscue, to reduce the
+island. There being a defection in the garrison, owing to the
+withdrawal of Colonel Thomas Modiford from the side of the king,
+after a resistance of six months, the governor, Lord Francis
+Willoughby, of Parham, was compelled to
+<a id="p41" class="pagenumber" title="Vicissitudes of fortune."></a>
+think of terms; and
+accordingly he appointed, along with three other commissioners,
+Major Byam to negotiate a surrender. This gentleman and his
+coadjutors performed their parts so ably, that they obtained from
+the admiral terms allowed by all historians as alike
+“comprehensive and honourable.” Indeed, when they were reported
+to England, though the Parliament did not refuse to ratify them,
+yet, considering them much too favourable, they never afterwards
+countenanced Sir George Ayscue. The very first act of the
+Parliament possession, contrary to the tenor of some of the
+articles, was to banish Mayor Byam and the other commissioners,
+and about ten more of the royalists, including Lord Willoughby
+himself. Major Byam retired to the then newly-founded settlement
+of Surinam, which being composed chiefly of the refugee followers
+of Charles, they, in those times of turmoil, elected him, by
+united suffrages, governor of the colony in 1654. In this
+situation he continued for six successive years, although
+Cromwell had despatched an officer of his own to take the
+command, being elected by universal voice, until the Restoration,
+when, in virtue of the proclamation at that time issued, he
+became governor for the crown. He was afterwards more formally
+confirmed in this appointment, in which he remained until the
+removal of the colony (or at least a large portion of it) to the
+island of Antigua, in virtue of the treaty of Breda, in 1667. Of
+this island he also became an early governor, as is still to be
+seen by many documents in the registrar’s office, and resumed to
+himself that property which he had before acquired when on a
+visit to the island with Francis Lord Willoughby in 1650; and
+now, by letters patent for the crown, under date April, 1668,
+20th Charles II., among the estates of Lieutenant-General Byam
+renewed to him at this period, were the present Cedar Hill and
+his Willoughby Bay estate.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref21" href="#note21">21</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p><a id="p42" class="pagenumber" title="Partition of the islands."></a>
+In 1672, his majesty Charles II. deemed it proper to make some
+alteration in the affairs of the West Indies. Hitherto all the
+Caribbee Islands were united under one government, but after the
+return of Lord William Willoughby to England, the king entered
+into fresh arrangements with the colonies, appointed him
+captain-general of Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent’s and
+Dominica; and Sir William Stapleton captain-general and
+commander-in-chief of Antigua and the other Leeward Islands. This
+Windward Island’s separation continues at the present time, after
+undergoing many changes, by having their own particular governor;
+as far as regards Barbados, St Lucia, and St. Vincent’s.
+Dominica has at length been united with Antigua, Montserrat,
+Nevis, St. Christopher’s, Anguilla, Tortola, and the Virgin
+Islands, which now form the Leeward Caribbee government.</p>
+
+<p>During the general government, a general council and assembly was
+held at either of the islands whenever the legislature deemed any
+important matter rendered it necessary to convene them; but the
+respective islands in the government, however, retained each
+their laws as regarded local circumstances. When the
+commander-in-chief found it necessary for the public good to call
+together this general council and assembly, the freeholders of
+each island met together and made choice of five eligible
+inhabitants to act as their representatives.</p>
+
+<p>The convening of this general council and assembly accounts for
+the affairs of these different islands being wound up together,
+and laws which were passed at the one, answering, in many
+instances, for the others.</p>
+
+<p>Sir William Stapleton preferring Nevis, he made that island the
+seat of government, and Colonel Philip Warner (Sir Thomas
+Warner’s son by his second wife) was appointed governor of
+Antigua. A very necessary precaution was adopted about this
+time​—​namely, the preventing persons wandering about cane-pieces,
+with lighted torches, hunting for land-crabs. If a free person
+was found so
+<a id="p43" class="pagenumber" title="Laws and regulations."></a>
+offending, the culprit was to pay into the public
+treasury one thousand pounds of sugar or tobacco; or if a slave,
+he was to be publicly whipped. This very dangerous practice
+continues to this day in seasons when the land-crabs are upon
+their travels, and certainly ought to meet with some punishment.
+So careless and thoughtless are the negroes, that large pieces of
+fire are frequently dropped upon the road while thus employed,
+which they never think of extinguishing; and as the scene of
+their exploits is generally in the vicinity of cane-pieces, where
+there is often a large quantity of dry cane-leaves, called in the
+country idiom, trash, serious accidents might, and indeed have
+been the result.</p>
+
+<p>It was also deemed advisable to ordain that marriages solemnized
+by the governor, council, or any justice of peace, should, in
+absence of beneficed clergymen from the island, be adjudged
+equally binding and lawful, as if the ceremony had been performed
+by an orthodox minister. This was a regulation very necessary in
+that early period, when there was as yet no established church
+erected, or any clergymen officiating in the colony; and,
+consequently, marriages were obliged to be celebrated by a civil
+power. It was also enacted by the legislature this year (1672),
+that slaves killed or maimed, while acting in defence of the
+country, should have their value ascertained by arbitration, and
+the amount paid over to their owners from the public treasury.</p>
+
+<p>In 1674, the inhabitants of Antigua presented an address to the
+captain-general, Sir William Stapleton, praying him to grant them
+a commission “to kill and destroy the Indians inhabiting the
+island of Dominica.”</p>
+
+<p>From the period when Antigua was first settled by the English,
+the Caribs, as we have already seen, had been in the constant
+habit of landing upon it, and perpetrating the most fearful and
+horrid acts of violence upon its inhabitants. So frequent and
+barbarous were these attacks, that the colony at one time was in
+danger of being abandoned; and
+<a id="p44" class="pagenumber" title="Expedition against the Caribs."></a>
+nothing but firm and vigorous measures on the part of the
+English could restrain the fury of their Indian adversaries,
+and quell their turbulent assaults.</p>
+
+<p>As soon, therefore, as his excellency, Sir William Stapleton,
+acceded to the request of the Antiguans in granting a commission,
+a large party of volunteers was formed, aided by some of the
+settlers from the neighbouring islands, of which, at the earnest
+entreaties of the council and assembly of Antigua, Governor
+Philip Warner took the command. They immediately proceeded to
+Dominica; and however different historians may relate the events
+of this action, they all concur in stating, that the English
+obtained a most signal victory over their Indian foes. In this
+fray the illegitimate son of Sir Thomas Warner, by a Carib
+woman​—​who was generally known by the name of Thomas Warner, or
+“Indian Warner,” and who is said to have headed the Indians in
+many of their attacks upon the English​—​fell, as it is supposed,
+by the hands of his half-brother, Philip Warner, the governor of
+Antigua. Whether this deed was done by open warfare, or by
+treacherous means, is uncertain; but, upon the return of Colonel
+Philip Warner, the governor, to Antigua, after the reduction of
+the Caribs, the circumstances of the death of Indian Warner were
+inquired into either by Sir William Stapleton or Lord Willoughby,
+the results of which were, that Colonel Philip Warner was sent to
+England to stand his trial for the murder of his half-brother.
+After being kept in the Tower of London for some time, Colonel
+Warner was placed on board the Phoenix frigate, and despatched to
+Barbados, in order that he might be tried in the Court of Oyer
+and Terminer in that island.</p>
+
+<p>This resolution, on the part of the home government, was no
+sooner known in Antigua, than a strong remonstrance was drawn up
+in the name of the inhabitants, and after being signed by sixteen
+of the most influential men among the legislature, was
+transmitted to the justices for the trial of Colonel Warner at
+Barbados, setting forth the facts, that it
+<a id="p45" class="pagenumber" title="Indian Warner."></a>
+was only through the
+most earnest prayer of the Antiguans, and not from any private
+motives of his own, that he was induced to take the command upon
+the attack of the Caribs, in which action the Indian Warner fell.
+The facts of this case being fully investigated, Colonel Warner
+was honourably acquitted, his lands,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref22" href="#note22">22</a>]</sup> which he had quietly
+yielded up on being sent to England for trial, were restored, and
+he was again permitted to exercise the functions of governor of
+Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>It certainly appears rather extraordinary that Colonel Warner
+should have stood his trial for this massacre of the Indians,
+when we find, that for more than fifty years after this
+occurrence, the Caribs were still hunted and destroyed as so many
+reptiles; but Indian Warner was one who ranked rather high in the
+opinion of Lord William Willoughby, and probably that nobleman
+felt incensed at his death. Many are the opinions of writers upon
+this subject. While some look upon Colonel Warner as the
+unjustified murderer of his half-brother; others are led to
+palliate the circumstances on the plea of Indian Warner being the
+chief actor in those cruel Carib attacks, which were generally
+made upon unarmed Englishmen, or their defenceless wives and
+children.</p>
+
+<p>Dampier, one of the greatest navigators among the Buccaneers,
+(before that name had acquired a dread from the lawless and
+bloody deeds its chieftains committed,) visited Antigua about the
+period of Indian Warner’s death; and in his history of his
+voyages he has the following passage:—​“About this time (1674) the
+Caribbees had done some spoil on our English plantations at
+Antego, and therefore Governor Warner’s son by his wife took a
+party of men, and went to suppress these Indians, and came to the
+place where his brother <i>Indian</i> Warner lived. Great seeming joy
+there was at their meeting, but how far real the event shewed;
+for the <i>English</i> Warner, providing plenty of liquor, and
+inviting his half-brother to be merry with him, in the midst of
+his
+<a id="p46" class="pagenumber" title="Indian Warner’s death."></a>
+entertainment, ordered his men, upon a signal given, to
+murder him and all his Indians, which was accordingly performed.
+The reason of this inhuman action is diversely reported. Some
+say that this Indian Warner committed all the spoil that was done
+to the English, and for that reason his brother killed him and
+his men. Others, that he was a great friend to the English, and
+would not suffer his men to hurt them, but did all that lay in
+his power to draw them to an amicable commerce; and that his
+brother killed him because he was ashamed to be related to an
+Indian. But, be it how it may, he was called in question for the
+murder, and forced to come home, and take his trial in England.
+Such perfidious doings as these, besides the baseness of them,
+are great hindrances of our gaining interest among the Indians.”</p>
+
+<p>Captain Southey, in his “Chronological History of the West
+Indies,” writing of the events of 1674, says​—​“Sir Thomas Warner’s
+son went with an expedition to suppress the Caribs, who were
+headed by his half-brother, his father’s son by a Carib woman. He
+was received in a friendly manner by his relative. In the middle
+of the repast, upon a signal given, the Caribs were attacked and
+all massacred. Different reasons are given for this act of
+atrocity: one, that the Indian Warner committed all the ravages
+upon the English; another, that the murderer was ashamed of his
+Indian relations.” Evidently Captain Southey took Dampier for his
+guide in relating this circumstance; and other authors, following
+in the wake, have handed Colonel Warner down to posterity, in the
+character of a fratricide. But before his actions are discussed,
+it would be well to lay aside all previously formed opinions,
+and, horrible as fratricide must appear to all, calmly take a
+retrospect of the great cruelties practised by the Caribs on the
+persons of the English, which led to the melancholy incident
+already narrated.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref23" href="#note23">23</a>]</sup> Before
+<a id="p47" class="pagenumber" title="His history."></a>
+concluding this subject, it will be necessary to mention some
+further particulars of the Indian Warner, the half-brother,
+of whose death Colonel Philip Warner was made amenable.</p>
+
+<p>At the latter end of 1629, after having the honour of knighthood
+conferred upon him by Charles I., Sir Thomas Warner returned from
+England to St. Christopher’s. Soon after his arrival, he entered
+into a league with the French settlers and Mons. D’Esnambuc, the
+captain of a French privateer; and, falling upon the Caribs by
+night, murdered in cold blood one hundred and twenty of the
+men.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref24" href="#note24">24</a>]</sup> The females they parted among themselves, and one of the
+handsomest of them fell to the share of Sir Thomas Warner,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref25" href="#note25">25</a>]</sup> by
+<a id="p48" class="pagenumber" title="History of Indian Warner."></a>
+whom she had a son, a remarkably fine and intelligent lad. About
+the year 1645, when he was fifteen years old,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref26" href="#note26">26</a>]</sup> an old Carib
+man, who, by some chance, had remained upon the island after the
+expulsion of his countrymen, informed the boy of the former
+cruelties of the English to his mother’s relations​—​a tale which
+so exasperated him, that he was determined to escape, the first
+opportunity, and join his Carib friends. At length he effected
+his purpose, and fled to Dominica,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref27" href="#note27">27</a>]</sup> where the Caribs had taken
+up their abode after being driven from St. Christopher’s. So
+pleased were the Indians with this display of spirit on the part
+of their young relative, that they received him with open arms,
+looked upon him as their chief, shared with him all their
+predatory booty, and followed him in all his expeditions. In
+1664, Lord Francis Willoughby appointed this half-Carib (who bore
+the name of Thomas Warner) governor of Dominica, then inhabited
+by Indians. In this situation he remained until 1666, when he was
+captured by the French, and carried prisoner to St.
+Christopher’s, (some authors say Guadaloupe,) where he met with
+very harsh treatment, and was not liberated until after the
+peace, and then only at the earnest interposition of Lord William
+Willoughby. After his liberation, he appears to have carried on
+his warfare with the English colonists, until, as already
+mentioned, 1674, when he met his fate in about the forty-fourth
+year of his age.</p>
+
+<p>As perhaps it may be interesting to some of my readers to look
+over the “<i>Remonstrance</i>,” alluded to as drawn up by the members
+of the Antigua legislature in 1676, when Colonel Philip Warner
+was tried for the murder of his half-brother​—​I have inserted it
+in the Appendix, (No. 6.)</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note20" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref20">20</a>] The French having entirely ruined Antigua, it was necessary
+to form all new regulations, as at the first settlement of the
+colony.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note21" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref21">21</a>] For a further account of this gentleman’s family, see
+Appendix, No. 4.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note22" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref22">22</a>] For copy of the Grant of Land to Colonel P. Warner, see
+Appendix, No. 5.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note23" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref23">23</a>] Oldmixon, in his “British America,” says:—​“At this time
+(1676) there was a wicked practice in the West Indies, of which
+the English are accused; and that was, their stealing and
+enslaving Indians, which they took on the continent or the
+islands. And one Colonel Warner being charged with this unlawful
+traffic​—​if it deserves that name​—​was made a prisoner in England,
+and sent, aboard the Phoenix frigate, to Barbados, to take his
+trial there; but he found so many friends, that he came off.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note24" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref24">24</a>] Oldmixon, in his History of St Christopher’s, speaking of
+this circumstance, says​—​“They (the Caribs) were willing enough to
+live peaceably with the Europeans who first landed there, and
+were upon the place when D’Esnambuc came thither; but, upon his
+landing, their boyez, or conjurers, telling them, in a general
+assembly met on purpose, that the foreigners were come to take
+away their country from them, and destroy them root and branch,
+it was resolved to massacre the English.” He goes on to state,
+that the English and French, having gained intelligence of the
+Caribs’ design to <i>cut their throats</i>, “fell upon the most
+factious of the natives by night, killed them, and drove the rest
+out of the island.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note25" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref25">25</a>] Labat mentions seeing this woman at Dominica, and gives the
+following account of her:—​“This old savage woman is, I think, the
+oldest creature in the world, being more than a hundred years
+old. They say she had been very handsome, and on account of her
+beauty the English governor at St. Kitts kept her for a
+considerable time. She had a number of children, among which was
+one called <i>Ouverard</i>. [<i>Warner, it ought to be; but Pierre du
+Tertre is not very particular in his orthography of English
+names.</i>] Pierre du Tertre speaks of him in his history; but this
+demi-savage was dead before I came to the West Indies. They
+always continue to call her Madam <i>Ouverard</i>. After the English
+sent her to Dominica upon the death of the governor, she was more
+respected for her old age than from being his mistress. Her
+property was rather extensive, and was entirely peopled by her
+children’s children. This old woman was entirely naked, and had
+not two dozen hairs upon her head; her skin resembled old
+parchment completely dried up, as if baked. She was so crooked
+that I could not see her features except when she went to drink
+water. She had a good many teeth in her head, and her eyes were
+perfectly clear.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note26" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref26">26</a>] Some writers make it sixteen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note27" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref27">27</a>] Dampier says St Lucia.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch5" class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a id="p49" class="pagenumber" title="A wise governor"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governor Col. R. Williams​—​Biographical
+remarks​—​Towns of trade appointed​—​Antigua divided into
+parishes​—​Sir Nathaniel Johnson appointed captain-general and
+governor-in-chief​—​Colonel Codrington​—​Remarks upon this
+family​—​Invasion of Antigua by a French privateer​—​Attack
+upon Guadeloupe by the English​—​Expedition to St.
+Christopher’s​—​Gallant conduct of Colonel Williams and Colonel
+Willoughby Byam​—​Sir Francis Wheeler’s expedition​—​Wilmot
+and Lillingston’s expedition​—​Death of the captain-general, General
+Codrington​—​Colonel John Yeamans,
+lieutenant-governor​—​Arrival of Admiral Benbow.</p>
+
+<p class="init">In 1675, Colonel Rowland Williams was appointed
+lieutenant-governor (or, as the phrase then was, deputy-governor)
+of Antigua. This gentleman was possessed of eminent
+qualifications, which honourably distinguished him among his
+contemporaries. He was alike conspicuous as a wise councillor and
+a skilful commander; whether in the senate or the field, he
+equally merited applause. The father of Colonel Williams (as will
+be seen in the genealogy of this family) was one of the earliest
+settlers in Antigua, and even in those times was famed for noble
+virtues​—​virtues which have descended from father to son, down to
+the present day, and centered themselves in the person of the
+Hon. Rowland E. Williams, the present possessor of “Claremont,”
+the family mansion.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref28" href="#note28">28</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>During the administration of Colonel Rowland Williams as governor
+of Antigua, six towns were appointed as places of trade, instead
+of two, as was the former custom. These towns were Falmouth, St.
+John’s, Bridge Town, Carlisle Road, Parham Landing Place, and
+Bermudian Valley. In these different towns all business was to be
+transacted as relates to shipping, &amp;c.; and no vessel was allowed
+to unload or sell their cargo at any other place, under
+punishment of forfeiting their goods. This, however, did not
+<a id="p50" class="pagenumber" title="The island divided into parishes."></a>
+debar any freeholder from disposing of his own personal property
+or merchandise at any place in the island he deemed proper.</p>
+
+<p>It does not appear at what particular period a secretary and a
+marshal were appointed; but in 1677 an act was passed relating
+unto such officers.</p>
+
+<p>In 1680, provisions were made for settling the militia, and for
+ensuring a better martial discipline throughout the island.</p>
+
+<p>Antigua was divided into parishes about 1681, which then
+consisted of five​—​namely, Falmouth, Rendezvous Bay, and part of
+Willoughby Bay, to be the parish of St. Paul’s; the remaining
+part of Willoughby Bay, Nonsuch, and Belfast, to be the parish of
+St. Philip’s; divisions of New and Old North Sound to be the
+parish of St. Peter’s; the divisions of Pope’s Head, Dickerson’s
+Bay, St. John’s, and Five Islands, to be the parish of St.
+John’s; and the divisions of the Road and Bermudian Valley to be
+the parish of St. Mary’s. Churches were also ordered to be
+erected, and all parochial charges to be raised from the
+inhabitants of each parish. The yearly salary of their ministers
+was 16,000lbs. of sugar or tobacco, which was paid to them on the
+24th day of June, being the feast of St. John the Baptist.</p>
+
+<p>The following year (1682) an expedition was despatched to act
+against the Indians of Dominica.</p>
+
+<p>His Majesty Charles II. having departed this life, Sir William
+Stapleton proclaimed his successor, James II. with great pomp, at
+Nevis. An old writer gives a long account of the ceremonies
+observed upon that day​—​of the gorgeous festival which succeeded,
+and the splendid attire of the governor; but as this work is
+strictly confined to Antigua, such detail will be superfluous.</p>
+
+<p>In 1684, during the administration of Sir William Stapleton,
+slaves were annexed to freeholds, and could be voted upon, the
+same as a freehold, or levied upon for distress. In illustration
+of this, a person possesses a family of slaves​—​say
+<a id="p51" class="pagenumber" title="Sir Nathaniel Johnson."></a>
+the mother and
+five or six children, the youngest in arms and drawing its daily
+nutriment from its parent; the owner of these slaves falls into
+difficulties​—​he owes a certain sum, and his creditor takes out an
+execution against him. The value of the negro woman covers,
+perhaps, the amount of debt, and accordingly she is seized,
+carried away, and sold, probably to a third or even a fourth
+person, and her baby and other children are severed from her, and
+she left alone. Oh! slavery, slavery, how dost thou debase the
+sons of men!</p>
+
+<p>Sir William Stapleton dying, King James appointed Sir Nathaniel
+Johnson, governor-in-chief, who continued to act as such until
+the first year of the reign of William and Mary, when he retired
+to America, and was succeeded in the government by Colonel
+Christopher Codrington in 1689.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref29" href="#note29">29</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>Colonel Codrington was so indefatigable in planting and
+cultivating the sugar-cane in Antigua, that he has been termed
+the patron of the island. This gentleman removed from Barbados to
+Antigua in 1674; when he purchased a large quantity of land, and
+formed the first sugar estate upon the island, and, sending for
+his wife and children, constituted himself one of its earliest
+planters. The Codrington family is of old extraction, and many a
+brave warrior has sprang from that source, as British history
+will shew.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref30" href="#note30">30</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>About the first year of Colonel Codrington’s government, in 1689,
+the fortifications at Monk Hill were commenced; but they appear
+not to have been carried on with any degree of spirit until 1705.
+This year the crew of a French privateer landed at Five Islands’
+Bay, and burnt and plundered the surrounding country; and carried
+away with them several negroes, besides much spoil. The
+Antiguans, highly incensed at this invasion, placed a small force
+on board an armed vessel under command of Captain Walter
+Hamilton, and pursued the enemy. This plan succeeded, and they
+<a id="p52" class="pagenumber" title="Arrival of Sir T. Thornhill."></a>
+returned to Antigua with the privateer as a prize; on board of
+which were some Irishmen, who were hung as a warning to others.</p>
+
+<p>The English government was greatly annoyed at these repeated
+attacks upon her West Indian colonies; and William III. made it
+one of his complaints against the French king upon declaring war
+with that monarch. Supposing that, after this war was declared,
+the French would be more active in their incursions, the
+inhabitants of Antigua determined to keep better watch. Sir
+Timothy Thornhill arriving with troops, all military affairs were
+delegated to him; and by his orders, guards were stationed at all
+the bays, and a constant look-out kept. Still the Caribs and a
+few Frenchmen managed to effect a landing, by sailing up some of
+the creeks, and killed ten of the inhabitants, and plundered some
+provision grounds. It was thought proper to appoint some reward
+for soldiers acting valiantly in defence of the island; and to
+make some provision for the wounded, and allowance for the widows
+and children of the slain. If any white servant shewed deeds of
+valour, and could obtain a certificate of such from the hands of
+his officer, that servant was freed,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref31" href="#note31">31</a>]</sup> the country paying to
+his master a sum proportionate to his services. If wounded they
+were to receive medical attendance and maintenance free of
+charge; if disabled, to receive yearly 3000lbs. of sugar for
+life; and if killed, their widows were to have the same amount of
+<a id="p53" class="pagenumber" title="Attack upon Guadaloupe."></a>
+sugar, and the children to be taken care of, and supported by the
+country. The owners of those slaves who fell in defence of the
+country, were also recompensed, by having 5000lbs. of sugar paid
+them from the public stock for every negro killed or mortally
+wounded, instead of having such slaves valued by arbitration, as
+was the plan from the year 1672. Regulations were also gone into
+by the legislature, for the establishing of courts of law, and
+settling due methods for the distribution of justice throughout
+the colony.</p>
+
+<p>About the middle of this year (1689) Colonel Hewetson, with a
+party of men, embarked on board a man of war, and sailed to
+attack Guadaloupe. They landed with but little opposition, and
+having obtained some plunder, and given the French a kind of
+<i>tit-for-tat</i>, returned in safety to Antigua. This was a very
+busy year for the Antiguans; for no sooner had Colonel Hewetson
+reached Antigua with his troops, from the late attack, than they
+raised 300 men, and sailed to the island of Marie Galante. Here
+they met with like success in the way of retaliation; beating the
+inhabitants, burning their town, and obtaining more plunder. From
+Marie Galante they proceeded to St. Martin’s, where Fortune,
+that usually fickle goddess, did not forsake them; for they not
+only plundered the place and increased their spoils, but drove
+the French completely off the island. Upon their return, General
+Codrington (for the governor had arrived to this rank) sent three
+sloops, with eighty men, under the command of Captain Edward
+Thorn, to the island of Anguila, to bring from thence all the
+English who resided there; they having been very cruelly used by
+some Irishmen, whom the French had landed there, for that
+purpose, a year before.</p>
+
+<p>1690 was again ushered in by that demon​—​War. Louis, that
+ambitious, but admired monarch, encouraged his subjects to invade
+the English colonies, in the West Indies and America, while he
+assisted James, the abdicated sovereign, in his attempts upon
+England and Ireland. General Codrington was warmly attached to
+the reigning monarchs, William
+<a id="p54" class="pagenumber" title="Gallant conduct of"></a>
+and Mary, and consequently
+endeavoured on all occasions to further their interest in the
+West Indies. No sooner had accounts arrived at Antigua of the
+battle of the Boyne, and William’s victory over the French troops
+upon that eventful day, than the governor determined to strike a
+blow for the honour of England. Admiral Wright arriving with a
+strong squadron of men of war, General Codrington prevailed upon
+all the other Leeward Islands to raise forces to endeavour to
+retake St. Kitt’s, which had fallen to the French king some time
+before, by the fortunes of war. Antigua, never behind the other
+islands in warlike deeds, raised a body of 400 (or, as some
+authors make it, 800) men, which were placed under the command of
+that gallant officer, Colonel Rowland Williams, and 200 gentlemen
+volunteers, under command of Colonel Willoughby Byam, who served
+as a body-guard to the governor-general, Christopher Codrington;
+and, by dint of prowess, their object was gained, for not only
+did they oblige the French to surrender the island, but,
+according to some authors, actually transported about eighteen
+hundred of them to St. Domingo and Martinique.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref32" href="#note32">32</a>]</sup> A general
+council and assembly was held this year, and an agent and
+commissioners appointed for the negotiation and management of the
+affairs of the Leeward Islands, as well as the raising and
+settling a proper fund for the defraying the expense of the same.
+Rewards were also given to the soldiers who acted valiantly in
+the late expedition.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p55" class="pagenumber" title="Colonels Williams and Byam."></a>
+The following year (1691) passed in quietness. The French were
+too much taken up with their European engagements to have much
+force in the West Indies; and Admiral Wright, cruizing about
+these seas, intimidated the few privateers still lurking about.
+It was deemed necessary by the legislature this year to enact a
+law, obliging all the members of the assembly to serve in such
+capacity when elected.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1692 was chiefly passed in settling island business, and
+making laws to redress several grievances which were severely
+felt by the inhabitants. One of these was as follows: after the
+reduction of this island, and its restoration to the English in
+1667, a great many persons pretended to have a right to large
+portions of land, by virtue of grants prior to the war, but which
+they had failed to cultivate. The consequence of this was, that
+the country was rapidly going to ruin; and the only way to avert
+it was, by government granting these lands to more industrious
+persons, as an encouragement to them to settle. When, after a
+lapse of time, the former possessors found their barren and
+uncultivated lands turned into profitable estates, they came
+forward and claimed them as their own; and so annoying were these
+threatenings to those who had worked the change, that although
+they had spent both time and money, they preferred leaving the
+island, and seeking some other home. To rectify this, it was
+determined by the legislature this year, that all persons who
+possessed lands by grants from government should be confirmed in
+the same, providing they had held them for five
+<a id="p56" class="pagenumber" title="Sir F. Wheeler’s expedition:"></a>
+years. Still,
+that justice might be equally imparted to all, if the former
+possessors put in their claim within two years, and it was
+allowed by a jury that they had a right to the same, they could
+demand the value of their lands as they were when they left them.
+A vestry was this year elected, churchwardens appointed, and a
+parish register ordered to be kept in each of the parishes in the
+island. In this register, all christenings, marriages, and
+burials were to be entered, under penalty of 5<i class="currency">l.</i> currency, the
+fee for which was 9<i class="currency">d.</i> currency each. An act was also passed for
+the settling of general councils and assemblies.</p>
+
+<p>The next year (1693) was celebrated for the endeavours of the
+Antiguans to destroy the remaining Caribs; and for this reason,
+great encouragement was given to those persons who fitted out
+privateers to destroy them and take their canoes. In the early
+part of the year, Sir Francis Wheeler arrived at Barbados, with
+an expected squadron of English men-of-war, intended for an
+attack upon the island of Martinique, when intelligence was
+immediately despatched to Antigua, in order that General
+Codrington might join him with the Antigua and other Leeward
+Island troops. In this expedition, Sir Francis Wheeler commanded
+the men-of-war, (on board of which were Colonel Foulks and
+Colonel Godwin’s regiments of foot, and 200 recruits, under
+command of Colonel Lloyd,) and Colonel Foulks the land forces. On
+the 30th of March, the fleet left Barbados, having on board two
+Barbados’ regiments, which, including the gentlemen-volunteers,
+consisted of about 1500 men, and arrived at Martinique on the 1st
+of April.</p>
+
+<p>The fleet anchored in the Cul de Sac Marine, on the south side of
+the island; and Sir Francis Wheeler, attended by Colonel Foulks
+and Colonel Lloyd, went in a boat to search for a good
+landing-place for the troops. Their movements were, however,
+watched by a party of French guards, one of whom fired a musket,
+the shot of which striking Sir Francis upon the breast,
+occasioned a severe contusion. The next
+<a id="p57" class="pagenumber" title="Unsatisfactory conclusion."></a>
+morning, Colonel Foulks landed 1500 men without opposition;
+and during the day, the whole of the forces were
+gathered together on shore, where they commenced the work
+of destruction by burning the houses and sugar-works, the
+inhabitants fleeing for safety into the woods.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the few following days, General Codrington
+joined the expedition with the Antigua and other Leeward Island
+forces, and Colonel Lloyd’s regiment, when it was determined, in
+a council of war, to sail and attack St. Pierre, the principal
+town upon the island. Here, however, the English appear to have
+acted a very indifferent part; for, after destroying a few
+plantations, and standing some slight skirmishing with the
+French, they abandoned their plans of endeavouring to take the
+town; and, upon the plea of the troops being sickly, re-embarked
+their men, and left the island. Colonel Foulks, Colonel Godwin,
+Major Abrahall, with some of the other officers, died of their
+wounds on board the vessels; and the Antigua and other island
+troops returned to their respective colonies.</p>
+
+<p>Thus ended an expedition, from which had been expected great
+results. According to an early historian, if the regulars had
+done their duty, as the Antiguan and the other island troops did,
+the whole of the French sugar islands might have been
+dispossessed, for the English forces amounted to between 3000 and
+4000 men. The French were, however, very much alarmed, and many
+of “the richest inhabitants shipped themselves and their valuable
+effects for France, some of whom were intercepted by the
+English.” Sir Francis Wheeler then steered for Boston, in
+America, intending to have proceeded against Quebec; but finding
+his arguments overruled by the Bostonians, he returned in disgust
+to England, with his vessels in a very shattered condition, and
+having lost half of his men.</p>
+
+<p>This officer was noted for his misfortunes, which could neither
+be attributed to want of courage nor want of judgment, but to
+circumstances over which he had no control.
+<a id="p58" class="pagenumber" title="Fate of Sir F. Wheeler."></a>
+We have seen how
+unfortunate was his expedition to the West Indies; and although
+not altogether connected with this work, we may just glance at
+his after-fate. About 1694, he was appointed commander-in-chief
+of the Mediterranean squadron, with orders to take under his
+convoy the merchant ships trading to Turkey, Italy, and Spain;
+there to join the Spanish fleet in cruising about until the
+return of the Turkish ships, when he was to accompany them home.
+After receiving these orders, he sailed from the roads of St.
+Helens, off the Isle of Wight, and arrived in safety at Cadiz,
+where, leaving Rear-Admiral Hopson, he proceeded for the
+Mediterranean. In passing through the Bay of Gibraltar, he met
+with very bad weather under a lee-shore. The ground was so foul
+that there was no hold for an anchor; but as there was no other
+plan they could follow, they were obliged to drop them. Several
+of the ships were driven on shore, of which many were entirely
+lost. The Admiral’s ship foundered at sea, and with the
+exception of two Moors, all perished in those tideless waters.</p>
+
+<p>In 1694, a general council and assembly was held at Antigua,
+when, among other business, it was deemed necessary to place a
+certain value upon all foreign coins in circulation throughout
+the Leeward Caribbee Islands. To avoid disputes in electing
+members to serve in these general councils and assemblies, it was
+proposed that in future the secretary should take the votes of
+the freeholders upon oath in their presence, and admit no vote
+but from a known freeholder of the respective island in person.
+But if, after these precautions, disputes should still occur, the
+legislature was to determine the cause.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1695 will be long remembered in English history as that
+of the siege of Namur; which action, glorious as it was, would
+not have been mentioned here, did not two gentlemen, well known
+in Antigua, make themselves conspicuous by their courage and
+noble bearing on that occasion. One of these distinguished
+characters was
+<a id="p59" class="pagenumber" title="Wilmot and Lillingston’s expedition."></a>
+Christopher Codrington, Esq., son of General
+Codrington, the commander-in-chief, and afterwards governor
+himself; a gentleman not only celebrated for his bravery, where
+all were brave, but also as being the most accomplished person of
+his day. The other individual was Sir William Mathew, afterwards
+Captain-General of the Leeward Islands.</p>
+
+<p>While these warlike deeds were going on in Europe, a squadron had
+been sent to the West Indies to protect the trade and harass the
+enemy. This squadron was placed under the joint command of
+Captain Robert Wilmot and Colonel Lillingston, and consisted of
+about 1200 land forces, augmented by troops from Antigua, and
+some other of the West Indian islands. This expedition, like that
+of Sir Francis Wheeler’s, proved unfortunate; the sea and land
+officers disagreed, and instead of acting with each other, they
+pursued opposite courses. Their first attempt was against St.
+Domingo; but instead of proceeding to take the capital, Captain
+Wilmot plundered the surrounding country for his own good; and
+although Colonel Lillingston remonstrated with him, he would not
+listen to reason. Finding the ill success of their endeavours,
+the West Indian troops determined to return to their respective
+homes: the Spaniards, who had joined them against their common
+enemy, the French, became disgusted, and withdrew; and the
+commanders themselves, disappointed of their expected captures,
+set sail for England. They lost one of their ships in the Gulf of
+Florida, and Captain Wilmot died on his passage. This year the
+Antiguans lost some of their merchant-ships, as did many of the
+other West India Islands, by their falling into the hands of the
+French privateers, who swarmed about the entrance of the English
+Channel.</p>
+
+<p>The following year passed in quietness in Antigua. The
+secretary’s office was appointed as the place where all the
+island laws were to be lodged. Before this period, it appears
+that there was no particular place appointed to keep the public
+records; and consequently many valuable papers became
+<a id="p60" class="pagenumber" title="Death of the governor."></a>
+mislaid or lost. This year, (1696,) the Hastings frigate was
+at Antigua, and sailed for London as convoy to a fleet of
+eleven ships, which were eleven weeks upon their voyage.</p>
+
+<p>In 1697, public pounds were erected in the several towns of
+Antigua, and imposts laid upon all liquors imported into the
+island. This had been hitherto a custom, but had expired some
+short time before.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1698 was a year of mourning to the Antiguans; their
+friend and patron, as well as governor, breathed his last sigh,
+and exchanged an earthly for a heavenly home. General Codrington
+was, as before remarked, the first person who planted the
+sugar-cane in Antigua: its chief productions before were indigo,
+ginger, and tobacco. He removed from Barbados (of which island he
+was a native) in 1674; and some authors make that year his
+appointment to the governor-generalship of the Leeward Islands,
+and that of Colonel Rowland Williams, deputy-governor of Antigua.
+This assertion is, however, evidently incorrect; for we have
+already seen, that Sir William Stapleton was acting as such at
+that period. The mistake must have arisen from General Codrington
+having removed to Antigua in that year.</p>
+
+<p>After the demise of General Codrington, the captain-general of
+the Leeward Islands, Colonel John Yeamans, a resident proprietor
+of Antigua, exercised the office of governor of the island.</p>
+
+<p>The Antiguans came to the resolution this year (1698) of
+appointing an agent for the island, who was to reside in London,
+and solicit the confirmation of such laws as should from time to
+time be made in Antigua, as well as to transact any other island
+business. The salary then given was 100<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling per annum,
+to commence from 1st January, 1689; but since the year 1800, it
+has been augmented. About this period, the notorious Captain
+Kidd<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref33" href="#note33">33</a>]</sup> paid Antigua a visit;
+<a id="p61" class="pagenumber" title="Governor Codrington."></a>
+but finding the coast of North America would afford him
+a better harvest, he did not remain long.</p>
+
+<p>In 1699, the gallant Admiral Benbow arrived at Antigua with a
+squadron of men-of-war, having on board Colonel Collingwood’s
+regiment, (or, more probably, Col. Whetham’s regiment, known as
+the “Enniskillen,” or 27th regiment of the line;) part of which
+was intended to be stationed upon the island, and the remainder
+to be sent to the other colonies within the government.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note28" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref28">28</a>] For the Genealogy of the Williams family, see Appendix, No. 7.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note29" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref29">29</a>] Sir Nathaniel Johnson was appointed, in 1704, Governor of
+Carolina.​—​Vide History of Carolina.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note30" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref30">30</a>] For further particulars of this family, vide Appendix, No. 8.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note31" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref31">31</a>] The persons to whom these rewards were given, owed their
+residence in Antigua to the following cause:—​To increase the
+white population, great encouragement was given to persons
+importing white protestant men-servants into the island, paying
+to the importer to much per head from the public treasury. These
+white servants were sold for a certain number of years, and at
+the end of that time they became free, and were incited to
+settle, by having small grants of land given to them. Every
+proprietor was obliged to have one of these white servants to so
+many slaves; and they were to be furnished with clothes and arms,
+and to serve in the militia. It was customary to sell them upon
+hogsheads, which I shall have further occasion to mention when I
+come to treat of the white inhabitants.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note32" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref32">32</a>] Extract from the London Gazette, No. 2602, published by
+authority, from Thursday, October 16th, to Monday, October 20th,
+1690, giving an account of the capture of St Christopher’s, the
+forces for which service arrived in Frigate Bay, in that island,
+20th June; the French offered to surrender on the 12th July, and
+articles agreed to on the 14th July:—</p>
+
+<p>“Colonel Byam was dangerously wounded in the neck.”</p>
+
+<p>Extract from “London Gazette,” 4th to 8th September, 1690. No.
+2590:—</p>
+
+<p class="letdate">                        “Bermudas, July 24th.</p>
+<p>“On the 20th June, the English arrived at St. Christopher’s,
+consisting of eleven men of war, besides fire-ships and tenders,
+and other vessels, under command of Captain Wright, who was
+himself in the Mary of 64 guns, and 450 men. These ships had on
+board 3000 land forces​—​viz., 700 English soldiers, commanded by
+Colonel Holt; 800 Nevis and Barbados soldiers, commanded by Sir
+Timothy Thornhill; 800 Antigua, commanded by Colonel Rowland
+Williams; 400 Montserrat men, commanded by Colonel Blackstone,
+and 200 gentlemen volunteers, commanded by Colonel Willoughby
+Byam, which served as a life guard to Colonel Codrington,
+governor of the Leeward Islands, and general on this expedition.
+The conduct of which forces was much commended in the second
+Gazette from 16th to 20th October.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note33" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref33">33</a>] The colonists of North America had, for the last few years,
+been greatly addicted to piracy: a practice which it behoved the
+English government to put an immediate stop to, if possible. A
+person of the name of Kidd, the owner of a small sloop, and who
+had been early inured to a maritime life, proposed, that if a
+vessel of thirty guns, well manned, was placed under his command,
+he would agree to suppress the pirates, and effectually clear
+those seas from such dangerous frequenters. After some delay, a
+vessel was equipped by private subscription, and Kidd appointed
+to the command; but instead of proceeding upon his mission to the
+American seas, he sailed for the East Indies, where he engaged in
+the unlawful traffic himself, captured some traders, and, after
+burning his own vessel, sailed in the largest of his prize ships
+for the Leeward Islands. After remaining there for a short
+period, he proceeded in his piratical career to the coast of
+North America, where, in his search after wealth, he perpetrated
+those revolting cruelties which have rendered his name infamous,
+and long caused the inhabitants of those colonies to chat around
+their winter’s hearth of the deeds and fate of the redoubted
+Captain Kidd, the lawless rover of the seas.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+
+<div id="ch6" class="chapter">
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governor Colonel Christopher
+Codrington​—​Establishment of the first market​—​Accession
+of Queen Anne​—​Arrival of Admiral Benbow​—​Attack upon the
+island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction with the Antiguan
+troops​—​Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam​—​Arrival of Captain
+Hovenden Walker​—​Second attack upon Guadaloupe​—​Colonel
+Codrington quits the government​—​His death​—​Sir William
+Mathew​—​Hon. John Johnson.</p>
+
+<p class="init">At the period of his father’s death, Christopher Codrington,
+Esq., the eldest son of the preceding governor, was in Holland,
+with his sovereign and his army; but upon the news arriving of
+General Codrington’s demise, William III. immediately
+<a id="p62" class="pagenumber" title="Establishment of a market."></a>
+appointed Christopher to succeed his late father as Captain-General
+and Commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, in
+which capacity he arrived at Antigua, in the year 1700.</p>
+
+<p>In the same year, regulations were framed by the legislature, to
+further increase the number of white inhabitants, and encourage
+the soldiers who had been lately disbanded, to settle in the
+island, by giving them grants of ten acres of land, and
+authorizing the treasurer to advance to each of them, as a loan,
+the sum of 3<i class="currency">l.</i>, a barrel of beef, and a cask of flour. Such
+soldiers as were unprovided with grants were to be allowed 6<i class="currency">d.</i>
+per day, until the time they were put into possession; and those
+who chose to emigrate from the islands to leeward of Antigua,
+were allowed 12<i class="currency">s.</i> for their passage-money. All tavern-keepers,
+owners of sloops, &amp;c., were also obliged to employ white men,
+under a penalty of 30<i class="currency">s.</i> for each offence.</p>
+
+<p>In 1702, the first market-place was established, cross streets
+laid out, and the town of St. John’s otherwise improved. A clerk
+of the market was appointed, who was also to be the public
+whipper and crier; town-wardens were elected, whose duty was to
+assess houses and lands; and a cage, pillory, stocks,
+whipping-post, and ducking-stool,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref34" href="#note34">34</a>]</sup> put up at the public
+expense. Night-watches were also appointed, to have the same
+power as watchmen in London, and a watch-house built in a
+convenient spot. Many of the wharfs were also constructed, and
+other improvements made.</p>
+
+<p>William III. having died the 8th of the preceding March, Queen
+Anne, his successor, was proclaimed at Antigua, in June, 1702,
+with some pomp; as also at Nevis, where the captain-general was
+holding a general council and assembly. Punishments were also
+enacted this year for the offences of slaves, and for the better
+government of free negroes. If a slave struck a white person, and
+in any way hurt or disfigured him, such slave was to have <i>his
+nose slit</i>, or <i>any member cut off</i>,
+<a id="p63" class="pagenumber" title="Benbow at Antigua."></a>
+or to suffer death, at the
+discretion of a justice of peace. Any slaves running away from
+their owners for the space of three months, were also to suffer
+death, have a limb cut off, or be publicly whipped​—​the treasurer
+paying to the owner 18<i class="currency">l.</i> in case of death. If, in pursuit of a
+runaway slave, the parties killed him, they were not liable to
+prosecution.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to free negroes, and <i>mulattoes</i>, by which was meant
+all persons of colour, they were obliged to choose a master or a
+mistress to live with, unless they possessed land of their own;
+and if they dared to strike a white servant, they were to be
+severely whipped. No free negro could possess more than eight
+acres of land; nor could any minister marry such person to a
+slave, under a penalty of fifty pounds.</p>
+
+<p>The military affairs were also regulated. The island militia were
+to consist of infantry and carbineers, under one of which all the
+male white inhabitants, from the age of fourteen to sixty-five,
+were to be included. One day in every month was to be set apart
+for the troops to be exercised; and once in a year a grand
+rendezvous was to take place at Boyer’s Pasture, in the division
+of North Sound, when prizes were to be distributed to those who
+made the best six shots at a target. The prizes consisted of six
+silver-hilted swords, with belts, valued at 6<i class="currency">l.</i> currency.
+Martial law was also ordained to be in full force at any period
+when there were fears of insurrections or invasions. Fines were
+also imposed for various offences, such as absence from parade,
+&amp;c. Privates who could not raise the money, were, in default of
+paying such fines as they had incurred, to be picketed, or <i>tied
+neck and heels for an hour</i>.</p>
+
+<p>This year (1702) Admiral Benbow again visited Antigua, and war
+having broken out with France, the captain-general, Colonel
+Christopher Codrington, resolved, in conjunction with that brave
+officer, to make an attack upon Guadaloupe. The merchants of
+Antigua, who were then a numerous body, equipped several
+privateers to serve under the admiral’s flag; and the
+captain-general, Colonel Codrington, raised a
+<a id="p64" class="pagenumber" title="Benbow’s gallantry."></a>
+regiment of
+soldiers, which were placed under the command of Colonel Edward
+Byam. On the 7th March, the land and sea forces were abreast the
+island of Guadaloupe, from whence the French fired at them,
+killing one man, and wounding a boy on board the commodore’s
+ship. The fleet laid off and on until the 10th of the same,
+waiting for the “Maidstone” man-of-war, with some other of his
+Majesty’s vessels, from Maria Galante, when, upon their arrival,
+Admiral Benbow came to an anchor on the north-west side of the
+island. After burning some plantations along the coast, on the
+12th, Colonel Byam, with his regiment, and a detachment of 200
+men of Colonel Whetham’s regiment, landed at “Les Petits
+Habitans,” where Colonel Byam distinguished himself by his great
+bravery; and, with the united assistance of the regulars, obliged
+the French to retire. The English next attacked a town called
+“Bogliffe,” which, after some resistance, they took, as also the
+Jacobin’s church, on which the French had planted ten pieces of
+cannon. After many other successes, among which was taking the
+breast-work along the Jacobin river, the strongest fortifications
+the French possessed, the English proceeded to Basseterre, the
+capital; and this town they, no doubt, would have also taken, had
+it not been for the unhappy differences arising between the
+commanders, and which, combined with the illness of the troops,
+occasioned the English to withdraw from the island at a time when
+victory was almost sure.</p>
+
+<p>After quitting the island of Guadaloupe, the fleet proceeded for
+Antigua; but Admiral Benbow, hearing of the arrival of the French
+admiral with ten ships of the line in these latitudes, went in
+search of them. As it does not appear any of the Antiguan forces
+joined him, we will only briefly remark that, falling in with the
+squadron, a fight commenced, which lasted three days. The last
+twenty-four hours the admiral fought with his single ship, his
+other vessels having deserted him; when, although his leg was
+shattered by a chain-shot, and he had received several other
+<a id="p65" class="pagenumber" title="Accession of Queen Anne."></a>
+wounds, he would not be carried from the deck of his ship, but
+continued fighting until the French were obliged to sheer off.</p>
+
+<p>Benbow was so displeased with the conduct of the captains of his
+different ships, that he determined to steer for Jamaica, and
+upon his arrival to call a court-martial. The most culpable of
+them suffered death, the others were punished in different ways,
+and the admiral himself took their conduct so much to heart, that
+vexation, co-operating with the pain of his wounds, caused his
+death in November of the same year.</p>
+
+<p>About this period (1703), the first sailing packet for the
+conveyance of letters arrived at Antigua. Queen Anne had been
+graciously pleased to establish this packet service for the
+furtherance of trade, as well as to keep up a more regular
+intercourse with the colonies, as may be seen from the annexed
+notification:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="letdate">“London, 11th February, 1702-3.</p>
+
+<p>“Whereas her Majesty, for the encouragement of trade and
+commerce, hath thought fit to appoint boats to convey letters and
+packets between Barbados, Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, St.
+Christopher’s, and Jamaica in America,—​this is to give notice
+that a mail will go from the general post-office, in London, on
+Thursday of this instant (February) for the above-mentioned
+islands, and henceforward on Thursday in every month; and her
+Majesty, pursuant to the statute made in the twelfth year of the
+reign K. Charles II., for establishing a post-office, hath
+directed and empowered the postmaster-general of England to take
+for the post of all such letters and packets that shall be
+conveyed by the said boats between London and any of the
+before-mentioned islands, the rates as follows:—</p>
+
+<table id="postal-rates">
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"></td>
+<td><i class="currency">s.</i></td>
+<td><i class="currency">d.</i></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>For every letter&#160;</td><td>not exceeding&#160;</td><td>one sheet&#160;</td><td>of paper,</td>
+<td>0</td>
+<td>9</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="center">do.</td><td align="center">do.</td><td>two sheets</td><td align="center">do.</td>
+<td>1</td>
+<td>6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4">For every packet weighing an ounce . .</td>
+<td>2</td>
+<td>8”</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p><a id="p66" class="pagenumber" title="Governor Codrington recalled."></a>
+This year (1703), his Excellency, Christopher Codrington, again
+entered the lists of battle. Sir George Rooke had despatched from
+England at the end of the former year Captain Hovenden Walker
+with six ships of the line and transports, having on board four
+regiments of soldiers for the Leeward Islands, which were to be
+landed at Antigua, and then distributed among the other colonies.
+Upon their arrival at Antigua, Colonel Codrington gave Captain
+Walker such information as determined him to alter his plans, and
+make an attack upon Guadaloupe; so, taking on board the governor
+and a “martial little band” under his command, they proceeded for
+that island. After having razed the fort, burnt the town, and
+ravaged the surrounding country, they re-embarked with
+precipitation, in consequence of a report that a body of 900
+French soldiers had arrived to the succour of the inhabitants.
+Colonel Codrington and his party returned to Antigua; and Captain
+Walker retired to Nevis with his squadron, where, it is said,
+they must have perished by famine had not Admiral Graydon
+fortunately put in there, on his way to Jamaica, and relieved
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Colonel Codrington was recalled from his government in the early
+part of 1704​—​for what reason I know not, unless it be his loyalty
+and attachment to his deceased sovereign, William III. He resided
+upon his “Betty’s Hope” estate, in Antigua, for some years
+afterwards, as a private gentleman, but at length removed to
+Barbados, where he died in 1710; and, in 1716, his remains were
+exhumed, and conveyed to England, and buried in the chapel of All
+Souls’, Oxford. Colonel Codrington added to his other
+accomplishments that of a poet​—​four of his poems being published
+in the <i>Musæ Anglicanæ</i>. He founded a college, by bequest, at
+Barbados, which still bears the name of “Codrington College;” and
+where, since the appointment of a bishop to this diocese, in
+1825, the clergymen who officiate in the West
+<a id="p67" class="pagenumber" title="Sir W. Mathew."></a>
+Indian churches,
+are, with the exception of two or three from the English
+universities, ordained.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref35" href="#note35">35</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>In 1704, Queen Anne appointed Sir William Mathew, a
+native of St. Kitt’s, (who had distinguished himself at the
+siege of Namur,) captain-general, who arrived at Antigua
+14th July, the same year. His Excellency did not live much
+more than five months after his appointment, dying 4th
+December; but during that short time, he endeared himself
+to all classes by a kind and courteous behaviour, and his
+strict integrity and honourable actions.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref36" href="#note36">36</a>]</sup> Upon the decease
+of Sir William Mathew, the Hon. John Johnson was made
+commander-in-chief for a short time.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref37" href="#note37">37</a>]</sup> During his administration,
+measures were taken to provide for the safety of the
+wives and children of those persons who at any time might
+be engaged in fighting for this island, and also for the infirm
+and superannuated, by building small houses within the
+fortifications of Monk’s Hill, where they could retire in
+times of actual warfare. This was a very necessary precaution,
+when the frequent landing of the French, attended by
+the Caribs, and the dreadful barbarities which they practised
+upon the unfortunate creatures who fell into their hands, is
+called to mind. And it was very naturally supposed that
+the men would fight better in the ranks, when they knew
+those who were near and dear to them were in comparative
+<a id="p68" class="pagenumber" title="General assembly at Nevis."></a>
+safety, than if obliged to leave them unprotected.
+These fortifications had been begun, at considerable expense, in
+the year 1687-8, and although a constant tax upon the country,
+had never been finished; but it was resolved this year to make no
+more delay, but carry on the works with vigour.</p>
+
+<p>This year (1705) a general council and assembly was held at
+Nevis, when an act was passed to regulate such meeting, and
+retain for each island its several laws. In future, the general
+assembly was to consist of five freeholders, elected from each
+respective island within the government. No member was to be sued
+or arrested for debt ten days before or after the sessions; and,
+while serving in general council and assembly, each member was to
+be paid 20<i class="currency">s.</i> per day, and their expenses allowed them for going
+from island to island.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note34" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref34">34</a>] “A stool, in which scolds are tied, and <i>ducked</i> under
+water.”​—​<span class="sc">Dr. Johnson.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note35" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref35">35</a>] For a genealogy of the Codrington family, see Appendix, No. 9.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note36" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref36">36</a>] Vide Mathew pedigree, Appendix, No. 10.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note37" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref37">37</a>] This Hon. John Johnson appears to have crept into the
+government with nothing more than a <i>verbal</i> commission from some
+great courtier; and it is said that, in order to gain the
+Antiguans over to his cause, he allowed them to frame and pass
+what acts they pleased. He was an officer in Colonel Thomas
+Whetham’s regiment, (the Enniskillen, or 27th regiment of the
+line,) where he held the rank of brevet-colonel. About the year
+1706, after the government had devolved to the captain-general,
+Colonel Parke, Colonel Johnson had a fracas with a Mr. Poxton, a
+native of St Christopher’s, which ended fatally to the
+ex-governor, and for which Mr. Poxton was tried for murder, but
+acquitted by a jury of his countrymen.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch7" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governor Colonel Daniel Parke​—​His birth-place
+and parentage​—​His actions at the battle of Holchet and
+Blenheim​—​His arrival at Antigua​—​Dissensions with the
+Antiguans​—​Complaints against him sent to England​—​Results
+of the applications at the court of Queen Anne​—​Tyrannical behaviour
+of Colonel Parke​—​Events of the 7th December, 1710​—​Death
+of Colonel Parke.</p>
+
+<p class="init">The year 1706 is celebrated in the annals of Antigua as
+that in which that abominable and atrocious governor,
+Daniel Parke, arrived to blast for a time with his unhallowed
+breath this beautiful little island. Parke was an American
+of rather low birth, a tobacco-planter in the state of Virginia,
+but who succeeded in marrying a lady of good fortune,
+and of a respectable family in that province. As money
+was the only thing he cared for in this alliance, he contrived
+to secure that, and then left his wife a prey to sorrow
+and regret, for having sacrificed her peace for a handsome but
+unworthy man. After acting in this inhuman manner to a
+<a id="p69" class="pagenumber" title="Colonel Parke."></a>
+woman whose only fault was her
+love for him, Parke proceeded to one of the northern states,
+where he committed a crime at a gaming-table, which obliged him
+to fly to England to escape the punishment so justly due. Here he
+purchased an estate, situated near Whitchurch, county of Hants,
+of about 500<i class="currency">l.</i> a year, and got himself returned member for that
+borough. He was, however, expelled the House for bribery, and
+ordered to be prosecuted, but through the interference of the
+Earl of Pembroke, he eluded his trial. His next action was to
+form a <i>liaison</i> with a lady, the wife of a captain in the
+Guards; and, to escape the vengeance of the incensed husband, he
+left England, and fled into Holland, where he entered into the
+army as a volunteer, under the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of
+Marlborough.</p>
+
+<p>The Duke of Marlborough appears to have been caught with Mr.
+Parke’s insinuating manners and agreeable person, and made him
+one of his aides-de-camp at the battle of Hochet; but having had
+a quarrel with an officer in the Queen’s Guards, Parke quitted
+the service a few days previous to the memorable battle of
+Blenheim. He still, however, remained within the precincts of the
+camp until the very day when that decisive action was fought; and
+when victory was about to be declared for the allied army, he
+presented himself before Marlborough, and requested that he might
+be the bearer of a line or two to acquaint the Queen of the
+glorious conquest likely to be achieved. The brave General reined
+up his panting war-horse, and with a heart bounding with
+exultation, and a face flushed with expected success, wrote, with
+a lead pencil, the following brief and soldier-like billet to his
+duchess:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="letdate">August 13, 1704.</p>
+
+<p>“I have not time to say more, than to beg of you to present my
+duty to the Queen, and let her majesty know that her army has had
+a glorious victory. Monsieur Tallard and two other generals are
+in my court, and I am following the rest. The bearer, my
+aide-de-camp, Colonel Parke, will
+<a id="p70" class="pagenumber" title="Arbitrary conduct of the governor."></a>
+give her majesty an account of
+what has passed; I shall do it in a day or two, by another, more
+at large.</p>
+
+<p class="signature">                    “<span class="sc">Marlborough</span>.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the English court, Colonel Parke gained the patronage of
+Sarah, the haughty but fascinating Duchess of Marlborough;
+through whose interest he became such a favourite with Queen
+Anne, that she presented him with her picture, richly set in
+diamonds, a purse of one thousand guineas, and afterwards made
+him governor and captain-general of Antigua and the rest of the
+Leeward Islands; where he arrived 6th July, 1706, in the squadron
+commanded by Capt. Kerr, and where he gave full scope to his
+licentious disposition.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the first arrival of Colonel Parke, the assembly voted him
+1000<i class="currency">l.</i> a year for house-rent, and great satisfaction was
+expressed at his appointment. It was not long, however, before
+this fair prospect of colonial happiness changed; and the
+governor, by his arbitrary behaviour, forfeited all claims to the
+good feeling and respect of the inhabitants. One of the earliest
+offences Colonel Parke gave the Antiguans, was his making a low
+man he brought to the island with him a member of the assembly.
+Being a vulgar man, he delighted in vulgar associates; and
+becoming acquainted with a private named Ayon, belonging to a
+regiment of foot stationed in Antigua, he prevailed upon the
+governor to appoint him provost- marshal. To the remonstrance of
+the Antiguans against this proceeding, Parke replied, he should
+make whom he chose provost-marshal; and that he would never
+appoint any person to that office who did not agree to act
+exactly as he wished, as well as empannel such juries as he
+should direct.</p>
+
+<p>The next act of the governor gave equal displeasure. This was
+calling upon the Codrington family to shew their right to the
+Island of Barbuda,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref38" href="#note38">38</a>]</sup> (which had been granted to
+<a id="p71" class="pagenumber" title="Parke’s cruelty."></a>
+General
+Codrington by William III.;) and the Antiguans not only felt
+interested in the affairs of him who had been their friend and
+governor, but they supposed Parke would also be calling upon them
+to shew their claim to their estates​—​an indignity which they felt
+no inclination to put up with.</p>
+
+<p>Another crime of huge magnitude was the seduction of Mrs.
+Chester, the wife of Edward Chester, Esq., one of the most
+opulent of the Antiguan merchants, and a member of the house of
+assembly. Not content with injuring this gentleman in the deepest
+manner by thus robbing him of the affections of his wife, Colonel
+Parke, in his office of governor, proceeded to offer Mr. Chester
+every insult which a little mind was capable of. Upon one
+occasion, the governor had all his cocoa and other merchandise
+seized, on an unfounded suspicion of its being illegally gained;
+and then, supposing that all these several aggravations would
+cause him to be justly disliked, he (Colonel Parke) accused Mr.
+Chester of joining with other disaffected parties, in endeavours
+against his government; and, upon the plea of doing it for the
+establishment of the public peace, he broke into Mr. Chester’s
+house one evening, when that gentleman was entertaining a few of
+his friends, who were obnoxious to the
+<a id="p72" class="pagenumber" title="Petition for the governor’s recall."></a>
+governor​—​and, by the
+assistance of some of his armed sycophants, among whom was the
+provost-marshal, dragged Mr. Chester and his friends to prison.
+In order to give some face to his proceedings, Colonel Parke
+accused other gentlemen of joining in this pretended
+insurrection, and, accordingly, he sent some of his brutal
+partisans to an estate called “Denbows,” with orders to take into
+custody Mr. Ffrye and Mr. Cockran, (members of the assembly,) and
+bring them to town to stand their trial upon that charge. While
+the magistrates were taking depositions in this case, Sergeant
+Bowes, a creature of the governor, beat Captain Kallabane (one of
+the witnesses for the defendant) in the open court. For this
+offence the sergeant was broke by his colonel, and ordered to be
+whipped; but when this circumstance came to the ears of the
+governor, he immediately restored Bowes to his rank of sergeant,
+and protected him from all further punishment.</p>
+
+<p>Another source of dissatisfaction, upon the part of the assembly,
+arose from the circumstance of the governor taking the soldiers
+off duty to watch his private property. The following extract,
+taken from a message addressed to his excellency from the members
+of the house of assembly, relates to this subject:—​“We always
+conceived her Majesty’s troops were sent to do duty on our
+<i>standing guards</i>, and not to be altogether employed in guarding
+your excellency’s person, your several buildings, your lumber,
+your heaps of bricks, mortar, and pantiles.”</p>
+
+<p>It must not be supposed that these were the only complaints
+alleged against Colonel Parke. His whole conduct, both in public
+and private life, was arbitrary in the extreme; and so
+supercilious was his treatment of the magnates of the island,
+that before he had held the government for twelve months,
+articles of impeachment were prepared to be forwarded to England.</p>
+
+<p>In 1707, a petition was drawn up and signed by eighty of the
+principal inhabitants, praying for his recall; a sum of money
+raised in order to defray the expenses of sending Mr.
+<a id="p73" class="pagenumber" title="Tyranny of Colonel Parke."></a>
+Nevin to
+England, to lay their grievances before her Majesty and council;
+and letters were written to Richard Cary, Esq., the colonial
+agent, calling upon that gentleman to assist them in their
+designs.</p>
+
+<p>While these measures were pursued by the disaffected party, the
+governor, who was not ignorant of these cabals against him, lost
+nothing of his arrogance of manner, which so incensed his
+adversaries, that at length an attempt was made upon his life. As
+he was riding along the high road, leading from St. John’s to
+English Harbour, a negro, named “Sandy,” fired at him from a
+piece of canes belonging to the plantation of the Honourable Otto
+Baijer,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref39" href="#note39">39</a>]</sup> and dangerously wounded him, of which deed Colonel
+Parke accused Mr. Jacob Morgan and some of the other members of
+the assembly, with being the instigators.</p>
+
+<p>About this time, Colonel Parke thought proper to accuse Barry
+Tankard, Esq., (a proprietor of sugar estates in Antigua, and an
+intimate friend of Colonel Codrington,) of caballing against his
+government; and accordingly he despatched his emissaries to the
+estate of that gentleman, with orders to seize his person, and
+bring him into town. Upon their arrival at Mr. Tankard’s house,
+they were informed of his absence from home; but doubting the
+truth of this information, they broke open the door of Mrs.
+Tankard’s chamber, (who was confined to her bed from severe
+indisposition,) and so alarmed that lady, that for some time her
+life was in danger. This arbitrary behaviour on the part of the
+governor led Barry Tankard to resent it, by calling his
+excellency out in a duel; but Colonel Parke, considering it
+beneath the dignity of the queen’s representative to accept the
+challenge of a private gentleman, the matter ended.</p>
+
+<p>While these dissensions were going on in Antigua between the
+governor on the one side, and the members of the assembly and the
+principal inhabitants on the other, Mr. Nevin
+<a id="p74" class="pagenumber" title="Colonel Parke recalled."></a>
+and Mr. Cary were
+using their best endeavours to get a favourable answer to their
+complaints from the home government. At length, after many
+delays, Mr. Nevin returned to Antigua, bringing with him the
+queen’s letter, directing that witnesses should be examined to
+prove the several articles of impeachment sent home against the
+governor, as well as his excellency’s answers to the same. “The
+depositions and answers were sworn before Edward Byam, Esq., one
+of the council, and Nathaniel Crump, Esq., speaker of the house
+of assembly, and were ordered to be sealed with the broad seal of
+the island, and forwarded immediately to England.” The governor,
+however, refusing to seal the affidavits of the complainants,
+upon the plea that his own answers were not ready, from the
+delays of the justices before whom they were sworn, his opponents
+were obliged to use another seal, and then despatch them, under
+the care of Mr. Nevin, to England.</p>
+
+<p>During the year 1709, Queen Anne recalled Colonel Parke from his
+government, to the great joy of the Antiguans. To this command
+the infatuated man, however, would pay no attention; and,
+exasperated by the triumphant looks of his accusers, which they
+could not, or would not, conceal, he proceeded to measures which
+could be only deemed those of a maddened despot.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1710 was ushered in with no better feeling between the
+governor and the members of the legislature. One of their first
+causes of complaint alleged against his excellency arose from the
+following circumstance:—</p>
+
+<p>It had ever been the privilege of the house of assembly to choose
+their own “clerk;” but during this despotic administration, the
+governor overlooked this, and wished to appoint to that office a
+friend of his own​—​a Mr. Hinton.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref40" href="#note40">40</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p><a id="p75" class="pagenumber" title="Unhandsome taunt of the governor."></a>
+This encroachment upon the assembly’s privileges gave rise to a
+great deal of ill feeling, and many acrimonious messages passed
+between his excellency and the members of that body. The
+following paragraph, copied from one of the governor’s speeches,
+alludes to this subject:—</p>
+
+<p>“If you still persist that it is your undoubted privilege to
+choose your ‘clerk,’ and will do no business until that be
+yielded to you, you certainly will have the ‘Lords’ Committee’
+opinion. It is an undutiful attempt upon her majesty’s
+prerogative; and I do assure you, gentlemen, if the queen does
+not appoint any other before I go, I will leave you time enough
+to raise money during this crop to pay off all the public
+debt!”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref41" href="#note41">41</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>This unhandsome taunt of the governor’s was deeply felt, and
+resented by the “house,” who, in reply to it, remarks—</p>
+
+<p>“We cannot but observe how severe and bitter your excellency
+reflects upon, and reproaches our country with, the not paying
+its debt, but compounding the same. We well remember, when the
+country paid your excellency 1000<i class="currency">l.</i> in sugar, at 12<i class="currency">s.</i> 6<i class="currency">d.</i>,
+your excellency sold that very sugar for 18<i class="currency">s.</i>; so that we hope
+your excellency has but little reason to complain of the public
+compounding their debt.”</p>
+
+<p>And then, in reference to a recommendation of the governor’s to
+enlarge the provision for the clergymen, they go on to mention—</p>
+
+<p>“Your excellency next recommends to provide a better
+<a id="p76" class="pagenumber" title="Address to the governor:"></a>
+maintenance
+for the clergy. They are already allowed 100<i class="currency">l.</i>; but as we are a
+people so much in debt, as your excellency observes, it cannot be
+expected, during these troublesome times, for us to advance their
+salaries, especially such scandalous persons as too many of the
+present clergy are.”</p>
+
+<p>This was only the third meeting of the legislature since the
+election, after a recess of three years; although, from the
+unsettled condition of the West Indies, (arising from the state
+of affairs in Europe, where Marlborough, at the head of the
+British forces, was engaged in frequent skirmishes with the
+French,) the Antiguans were in momentary expectation of an
+invasion. After being prorogued from the 18th of November to the
+27th, (1710,) the legislature again met, but without any better
+feeling between the governor and the members of the assembly. A
+fresh cause of dispute arose, from his excellency having caused a
+Mr. Hill to be sworn in as clerk of the assembly, (in place of
+his former favourite, Mr. Hinton,) but whom the members would not
+recognise; and after a great deal of altercation upon the
+subject, that body addressed the following to the governor:—</p>
+
+<p>“If your excellency’s resentment so far prevails as to despise
+these our propositions, and that the public affairs must with us
+still suffer, as unworthy your regard and consideration, we do
+then, as the only and last expedient, humbly propose your
+excellency’s visiting some other island of the government;
+thereby to afford us the opportunity and means, in conjunction
+with the lieutenant-governor and council, to provide for the
+public security, to heal our divisions, restore discipline, and
+our broken constitution, after the best manner we can. And we are
+unanimously of opinion, that in case your excellency rejects this
+our humble motion, and will not surcease such administration, as
+afore-mentioned, (which is so very opposite to the nature of our
+constitution, to the opinion of the lieutenant-governor, the
+council, as well as this house, and to the sense of the
+inhabitants in general,) we shall be under the unhappy necessity
+of withdrawing our
+<a id="p77" class="pagenumber" title="His reply."></a>
+obedience from you as chief governor,
+which, by your dispensing with her majesty’s positive command for
+leaving the government, we shall, in duty to her and justice to
+ourselves, (which we ought long since to have done;) and that
+this her colony, our persons and estates, may no longer be
+exposed to such unhappy conduct and administration, which seems
+entirely​—​we must say, foully​—​devoted to the ruin and destruction
+of all.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref42" href="#note42">42</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>After receiving this message, the unhappy, infatuated governor
+sent the following to the house:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>“Gentlemen,—​You are adjourned until Thursday, the 7th of
+December, then to give myself and council a meeting at the town
+of St. John’s, by eight of the clock in the morning.</p>
+<p class="letyours">“By command,” &amp;c.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Alas, that very morning, the sun arose for the last time to him!
+and by a fearful and unhallowed death, he was sent with all his
+sins upon his head, to render in an account of his stewardship.</p>
+
+<p>The cause which led to this melancholy event was this:—​Worn out
+with the proceedings of Colonel Parke, and looking upon him as an
+usurper of the government, the Antiguans threw off all restraint;
+and as the last remedy, determined to arm against, and force him
+to quit the island.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, upon the morning of the 7th December, 1710, a large
+body of men, in number about 500, proceeded to Government House,
+in two parties​—​the one headed by Mr. Piggot, then speaker of the
+house of assembly; the other, by Captain Painter, another member
+of that body. Colonel Parke, who was not ignorant of these
+proceedings against him, had quartered in Government House, some
+time before, the soldiers stationed in the capital; and who,
+<a id="p78" class="pagenumber" title="Attack on the governor:"></a>
+along with many of his private friends, (among whom was Mr.
+French, his historian,) had made arrangements for resisting any
+attack upon the governor.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the approach of the armed party, Colonel Parke sent the
+provost-marshal (the man whose appointment to that office had
+given the Antiguans such offence) with a proclamation, ordering
+them to disperse immediately. This they refused to do; but in
+order, if possible, to save an effusion of blood, they despatched
+Nathaniel Crump, Esq., (the former speaker of the assembly,) and
+George Gamble, one of the council, to the governor, desiring him,
+in the name of the inhabitants, to discharge his guards, and quit
+the government, without any further contest. Colonel Parke
+returned for answer, “that neither threats nor fear of death
+should make him do so; for the queen had intrusted him with it.”
+Through the delegates, Mr. Crump and Mr. Gamble, he bid the
+assembly “sit at Parham, if they were afraid of the troops at St.
+John’s,” but consented at the same time to dismiss the soldiers,
+if six of the principal inhabitants would remain with him as
+hostages. As the negotiators considered the proposal of the
+governor’s to be far preferable to commencing hostilities, they
+agreed to be two of the hostages, and endeavour by their
+influence to obtain four more from among the assembled multitude.
+Many of their party, upon hearing this proposition of the
+governor’s, agreed with them in their opinions, and laid down
+their arms; but the majority of the people, fearful of any
+agreement made with the governor, and thinking that delays might
+induce others of the group to withdraw also, determined to
+commence the attack, and endeavour to secure the person of the
+governor. The two companies, headed by Captain Piggot and Captain
+Painter, immediately drew up before Government House, which they
+saluted with a warm discharge of musketry. This was returned by
+the governor’s party; volley succeeded volley from within and
+without; the balls whistled hotly around; until at length the
+assailants burst open the doors,
+<a id="p79" class="pagenumber" title="His death."></a>
+and rushed into the dwelling. Captain Piggot fell by the
+hand of Colonel Parke, at the commencement of the affray,
+although it was the belief of many that Ayon, the provost-marshal
+and <i lang="fr">ci-devant</i> foot-soldier, came behind him and shot
+him in the back. After some deaths on both sides, Colonel
+Parke, who had retired into his bedroom, received a shot in
+his thigh, which, breaking the bone, disabled him from further
+retreating, and the people rushing upon him, literally
+tore him to pieces while alive. They afterwards burnt down
+Government House, the ruins of which remain to this day
+a memento of his dreadful crimes and fearful punishment.
+Colonel Parke was dragged into the streets by some of his
+adversaries, where he remained for some time, still sensible,
+but suffering agonies impossible to describe, until at length
+his mutilated body was carried to the house of a person
+named Wright, who lived near to the spot, where he shortly
+expired. His body was deposited in the vault of the old
+church; but so detested was his memory, that the people
+broke down the pew which had been appropriated for him
+and his predecessors.</p>
+
+<p>Some writers maintain that only the <i>common people</i> were
+concerned in the last act of this tragedy; that those of the
+higher rank proceeded to the house of John Yeamans, the
+lieutenant-governor, and quietly laid down their arms. Mr.
+French, the historian of Colonel Parke, writes, however, very
+differently upon this part of the subject; but it ought to be
+taken into consideration, that he was a particular friend of
+Colonel Parke, and consequently might give a higher colouring to
+the melancholy picture. He says, that when Colonel Parke lay in
+the street suffering the pangs of a dismembered body, the members
+of the house of assembly stood round reviling and insulting him
+in his last agonies; that among the number were Andrew Murray,
+Francis Carlisle, Mr. Tomlinson, and Captain Painter. I cannot
+believe this assertion. Although Parke was their common
+foe, still they must have been possessed of those feelings of
+<a id="p80" class="pagenumber" title="Governor Hamilton."></a>
+honour, if not humanity, which would forbid them to triumph
+over a dying enemy. Mr. French goes on to state, that it
+was Colonel Byam who was most active in convening the
+inhabitants, and appointing a certain day for them to come
+into town well armed. This, too, has been contradicted.
+There were not many clergymen then upon the island; but
+among their number, Mr. James Field, rector of St. John’s,
+took the part of the people; and Mr. Baxter, rector of Parham,
+that of Colonel Parke.</p>
+
+<p>All writers upon the West Indies mention the crimes and fate of
+Parke; and consequently I am obliged to follow in the wake, or
+else I should have buried his errors​—​or, more properly speaking,
+his vices​—​in oblivion.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref43" href="#note43">43</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note38" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref38">38</a>] Barbuda is a small island, about twenty miles broad, and
+lies twenty-six miles to the north of Antigua. It has belonged to
+the Codrington family from about the year 1691, when William III.
+granted it to General Codrington, then governor-general of the
+Leeward Islands. It raises a great number of horned cattle,
+ponies, donkeys, &amp;c., and its shores are very prolific in turtle
+and various kinds of fish; while its beach is strewed with many
+beautiful shells. Deer, also, range amid its sylvan glades; and
+their flesh occasionally affords another dish at a West Indian
+dinner. The chief emoluments arising from this island, however,
+are the number of wrecks; three or four sometimes occurring in a
+year. The reason of these frequent maritime disasters is, that
+the island lies so low, and is generally encompassed with fogs,
+that vessels are upon the reefs (by which it is almost entirely
+surrounded) before they are aware. It was upon one of this chain
+of reefs, that H. M. S. Woolwich was wrecked.</p>
+
+<p>Barbuda contains about 1500 inhabitants, of which the greater
+part are employed as huntsmen and fishermen: the former make use
+of the lazo to catch the wild horses, &amp;c.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note39" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref39">39</a>] This spot is now appropriated for the Wesleyan
+burial-ground.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note40" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref40">40</a>] The following is an authentic copy of Mr. Hinton’s
+commission and warrant, as drawn out in Colonel Parke’s own
+handwriting:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="letintro">“By his Excellency Daniel Parke, Esq., Captain-General and
+Governor-in-Chief in and over all her Majesty’s Leeward Caribbee
+Islands in Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>“I do hereby authorize and appoint you, Gabriel Hinton, of the
+said island aforesaid, to be clerk to the assembly of this
+island, and which is this day appointed to meet; and to receive
+all fees, proffitts, and perquisites thereto belonging, for which
+this shall be your sufficient warrant and commission.</p>
+
+<p>“Given under my hand and seal this twenty-second day of May,
+1710.</p>
+
+<p class="signature">(Signed) “<span class="sc">Daniel Parke</span>.”</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note41" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref41">41</a>] At this period, the island had fallen considerably in debt;
+and the legislature not having met for some time, from the
+unhappy differences between them and the governor, they had no
+opportunity of relieving themselves from their burdens; which
+difficulties were pleasing to Colonel Parke, in the hopes of
+their being compelled to make a general compromise.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note42" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref42">42</a>] It may be well to remark, that any peculiarities in the
+diction of the foregoing extracts must be attributed to the time
+in which they were written: they having been copied <i>verbatim</i>.</p>
+
+<p>For a list of the members of the house of assembly at this time,
+see Appendix, No. 11.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note43" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref43">43</a>] The last will of Governor Parke will be found in Appendix,
+No. 12.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch8" class="chapter">
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governor Walter Hamilton​—​Walter Douglas’s
+Disturbances​—​Complaints against him sent to
+England​—​Queen Anne recalls him, and reappoints Walter
+Hamilton​—​Lord Viscount Lowther​—​John
+Hart​—​Lord Londonderry​—​Lord Forbes​—​Colonel
+William Crosbie.</p>
+
+<p class="init">After the death of Colonel Parke, the government, of course,
+devolved upon the lieutenant-governor of Antigua, John Yeamans,
+until such time as despatches could be forwarded to Nevis, where
+General Hamilton, who was next in command to the late
+captain-general, (and who had married the widow of Sir William
+Stapleton, a former governor,) was residing. Four of the members
+of the legislature were, accordingly, sent to General Walter
+Hamilton, advising him of the death of Colonel Parke, and
+inviting him to come to Antigua in order to assume the chief
+command. General Hamilton received the party with great urbanity
+and kindness, and accompanied them back to Antigua,
+<a id="p81" class="pagenumber" title="Recall of Hamilton."></a>
+where he took up his residence, for the time being, with
+Dr. Mackinnon, one of the actors in the late affray.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref44" href="#note44">44</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>Upon the intelligence of Colonel Parke’s death reaching England,
+Queen Anne was very much incensed against the inhabitants of
+Antigua; but, after hearing the catalogue of Parke’s crimes, and
+in order to prevent any further effusion of blood, her majesty
+was graciously pleased to send a general pardon to all that were
+concerned in that transaction.</p>
+
+<p>But although the queen thought proper to extend her clemency to
+the Antiguans, she made some alteration in the affairs of the
+Leeward Island government. General Walter Hamilton was recalled,
+and General Walter Douglas appointed in his room; and John
+Yeamans was removed from the situation of lieutenant-governor of
+Antigua, and that appointment conferred upon Colonel Edward Byam.</p>
+
+<p>During the period General Douglas administered the government, he
+received instructions from England to see an act put into
+execution, which had been passed in the time of Christopher
+Codrington the younger, respecting the ascertainment of the value
+of current coin.</p>
+
+<p>The 24th of June, 1712, Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker again visited
+Antigua with a fleet of seven ships under his command. Soon after
+his departure, M. Copard, the French admiral, with a fleet of
+eight ships and seventeen sloops of war, manned with about 5000
+men, made an attack upon the island; but we find, from despatches
+sent to England by the governor, General Douglas, their attempts
+at landing were frustrated.</p>
+
+<p>General Douglas had scarcely been two years governor
+before complaints against him were also despatched to
+England, as well as a petition from the inhabitants, praying
+the queen to recall him, in which petition their late
+governor-general, Walter Hamilton, joined. General Douglas
+<a id="p82" class="pagenumber" title="Re-appointment of Hamilton."></a>
+had made himself so obnoxious, that another rebellion
+had almost occurred. One of his measures was to retain
+certain duties, which ought to have been paid into
+the treasury, (such as duties upon wines and liquors, &amp;c.), for
+his own particular use. He also persecuted General Hamilton,
+and suspended him from all offices he held in the island;
+and upon that gentleman repairing to England to transact
+some private business, Colonel Douglas endeavoured to
+seize Dr. Mackinnon and Chief-Justice Watkins for their
+proceedings in the affair of Colonel Parke, as well as on the
+plea of another intended rebellion. These gentlemen, however,
+contrived to escape to England, where, from advices
+received from Governor Douglas, they were afterwards
+seized and committed to prison; but, pleading the general
+pardon which her majesty had issued, they were discharged
+without trial, although Ensign Smith, one of the asserted
+culprits, lay in Newgate for some months.</p>
+
+<p>While these rancorous dissensions were going on between the
+governor and the inhabitants, orders were received for him to
+return to England; and, to the joy of the Antiguans, his majesty
+George I. re-appointed General Walter Hamilton to the government
+in 1715. The island was now pretty quiet; the French keeping to
+their own colonies without troubling their neighbours. The
+Antiguans, however, were still very cautious of them; and the few
+persons of that nation who, after the termination of the war,
+came to reside at Antigua, were very coldly received. This year
+(1715) the court of chancery was amended. Hitherto it was held by
+one person, which caused delays, besides other inconveniences: so
+that it was resolved in future it should consist of the governor,
+and not less than five members of the council.</p>
+
+<p>Previous to this period, there was also much difficulty in
+recovering minor debts, owing to the want of good laws,
+which occasioned so much inconvenience to the merchants
+of Antigua that they found it necessary this year (1715) to
+<a id="p83" class="pagenumber" title="Regulations respecting owners of slaves."></a>
+draw up a petition, signed by twenty-six of the most influential
+members of their body, praying for a better settling
+of the island courts. In 1711, the attorney-general, Thomas
+Bretton, Esq., had drawn up an act “for establishing a
+court of queen’s bench and common pleas, and for the
+better regulating and settling due methods for the administration
+of justice,” with which the council and assembly
+were so well pleased, that they presented him with one hundred
+and forty pounds currency; but which act was so
+marred in the passing of it, that they themselves found it
+necessary to incur further expense by having another drawn
+up. As, however, this did not appear to have the desired
+effect, in 1715, (after receiving the petition from the merchants,)
+further and more effective measures were taken for
+settling law courts, and limiting a time for issuing executions
+out of the court of chancery.</p>
+
+<p>In 1716, fresh regulations were made respecting the importation
+of white servants. Every owner of slaves, to the number of
+fifteen, was obliged to find a white man to serve in the militia;
+and for every twenty slaves, above fifteen, they were obliged to
+find another white servant. Importers of white Protestant
+servants could demand of the treasurer of the island eighteen
+pounds per head if not sold in twenty days, and further obliged
+the treasurer to receive such servant until sold. The general
+term of servitude was seven years, at the end of which period
+their master was to give them fifty shillings, and 400 pounds of
+sugar or tobacco, with a certificate of their being free. If one
+of these white servants married a free person without the consent
+of their master, that free person was to be fined 100<i class="currency">l.</i>; and if
+one servant entertained another for more than twenty-four hours
+at one time, the person so offending was to be publicly whipped,
+or serve the injured party three months; or if the entertainer
+was free, he was to forfeit 20<i class="currency">l.</i></p>
+
+<p>About this time, Governor Hamilton sent a party of
+settlers, under command of a Mr. Howell, from Antigua and
+<a id="p84" class="pagenumber" title="Measures to suppress gambling."></a>
+the different
+Leeward Islands, to plant a colony upon Crab Island, a small
+island lying between Santa Cruz and Porto Rico.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1699, the Scottish or Darien Company fitted out two
+large ships with a cargo of articles for traffic, and arms and
+ammunition, intending to form a settlement in America. While on
+their passage, they resolved to call in at Crab Island, and leave
+some of their party there; but upon their arrival, finding a
+large tent erected on the beach, with Danish colours flying, and
+not wishing to have any dispute, they left the island to the
+Danes, and proceeded to the Isthmus of Darien. The Danes having
+given up the colony, the English thought it a good time to put in
+a claim, and accordingly, as before remarked, Governor Hamilton
+sent a party to colonize it.</p>
+
+<p>Improvements were made about this time in the erection of mills
+for the purpose of grinding the sugar cane, and also in the art
+of sugar-boiling, which the Antiguans at that day appear to have
+been deficient in. Oldmixon, speaking of the sugar made in
+Antigua, says,—​“It is so black and coarse, that no art could fine
+it; and, as if our sugar bakers in England scorned to put dirt in
+their coppers, it was generally shipped off to Holland and
+Hamburg, where it was sold for 16<i class="currency">s.</i>, when any other brought
+from 18<i class="currency">s.</i> to 19<i class="currency">s.</i> per hundred.”</p>
+
+<p>In 1620, Lord Viscount Lowther was appointed to the government of
+the Leeward West India Islands, but his appointment was
+afterwards cancelled; and, in 1721, George I. appointed John
+Hart, Esq., former governor of Maryland, to be commander-in-chief
+of the Leeward Islands, who arrived at Antigua about the middle
+of the year. About this time gambling raged to a great extent in
+Antigua, and it was thought necessary to adopt some measures to
+suppress it. It was therefore ordained, in 1723, that, if any
+person won more than seven pounds at one sitting, or within
+twenty-four hours from the time they first commenced playing,
+they were to forfeit treble the value, half of which was to be
+paid into treasury for the purpose of building and repairing
+forts, &amp;c., and the other half to go to the loser. It is strange
+that,
+<a id="p85" class="pagenumber" title="Laws respecting slaves."></a>
+much about the same time, this vice was very prevalent in
+England. Indeed, profligacy of all kinds had increased in that
+kingdom to an alarming extent. This was supposed to have arisen
+from the infatuation of the South Sea scheme, which, intoxicating
+the minds of the people with the prospect of imaginary wealth,
+led them into every excess. If any of the Antiguans had joined in
+this infatuation, I am unable to say. I was led into the mention
+of it from the fact of both countries being, at the same period,
+subject to the same kind of vice.</p>
+
+<p>For the last few years the inhabitants of Antigua had been very
+much harassed by a gang of runaway slaves, from various estates,
+who had taken up their abode in some of the mountains and rocky
+parts of the island, and who were in the practice of issuing out
+at night, and committing many and great depredations. The leaders
+of this gang of vagrants were three men, of the name of Africa,
+Papa Will, and Sharper; and, to insure their capture, a reward of
+twenty pounds was offered to any person who should place either
+of them, dead or alive, in the hands of the provost-marshal. If
+any one killed a slave who had been absent from their owner three
+months, while in pursuit of them, he was entitled to the sum of
+three pounds; and when such slave was taken alive, the reward was
+doubled, the owner of any slave so killed being paid his or her
+value from the treasury. If a slave concealed, afforded
+nourishment to, or comforted a runaway, he was to be publicly
+whipped on the bare back with any number of stripes the justice
+of the peace thought proper to order; and if any free person so
+offended, such freeman was to be fined not less than ten pounds
+for the first offence. No person was allowed to purchase goods of
+a slave, under a penalty of thirty pounds for the first offence,
+except such things as pigs, goats, fowls, fish, or ground
+provision, which slaves were allowed to sell; but ginger and
+cotton ranked among the prohibitory articles. For the better
+government of this sable race, it was thought
+<a id="p86" class="pagenumber" title="George II. proclaimed."></a>
+proper by those in power to restrict their diversions, and
+publish a decree, that all owners of slaves should allow
+them three days at Christmas for play-days, <i>and no more</i>,
+under a penalty of twenty pounds. Many other regulations
+were made, which appear at this day very harsh​—​such as
+not allowing slaves to plant cotton, forbidding them to assemble
+in parties of more than ten, punished for carrying
+any kind of weapon, unless in company of a white person,
+&amp;c.; but, at the same time, it was enacted that if any cruelly
+disposed person hurt, or killed a slave, they were liable to the
+same punishment as if the victim had been free; thus setting a
+bright example to the other island, where killing a slave was
+looked upon, in law, as a mere trifle.</p>
+
+<p>In 1725, the parish of St. Peter’s was divided into two, making
+Antigua to consist of six parishes, instead of five; the
+separated half of St. Peter’s being called St. George. The reason
+of this division was the great extent of the parish, which,
+having only one church and one chapel of ease in it, and those at
+a considerable distance, the parishioners had not an opportunity
+of attending divine worship every week. Nothing of much
+importance occurred during the next two years, except that the
+assembly of Antigua returned thanks to Captain Arthur Delgarno,
+commander of H.M.S. South Sea Castle, for his indefatigable
+exertions in these seas, in keeping away the enemy’s ships, and
+protecting the trade of the island: they also voted two hundred
+guineas to purchase a sword to present to the gallant commander,
+as a token of respect. It was by the suggestions of this Captain
+Delgarno, and Captain Cooper, of H.M.S. Lyon, in 1725, that the
+spacious dockyard at English Harbour was first erected.</p>
+
+<p>George I. dying in the month of June, 1727, his son succeeded to
+the vacant throne, under the title of George II. Upon the
+intelligence reaching the ears of the Antiguans, he was
+proclaimed at Antigua with great pomp. An ox was roasted whole,
+and three hogsheads of beer distributed to the poor inhabitants;
+while a splendid entertainment
+<a id="p87" class="pagenumber" title="Conspiracy among the negroes."></a>
+was provided for the governor and the gentry of the
+island, at the public expense.</p>
+
+<p>His majesty George II. having appointed Lord Londonderry<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref45" href="#note45">45</a>]</sup> to
+succeed John Hart, Esq., in the government of the Leeward
+Islands, that nobleman arrived at Antigua in 1728; but was
+detained off the port, or rather on board his vessel, which was
+anchored in the roadstead for some time, on account of a
+hurricane. About this period, the commander of H. M. S.
+Winchelsea took a pirate vessel, while at anchor near one of the
+small islands with which these seas abound; but the crew escaped,
+with the exception of five persons, who were brought to Antigua,
+and hung. These were Captain Fen, the owner and commander, his
+gunner, and three common sailors.</p>
+
+<p>The first year of Lord Londonderry’s administration, it was
+privately recommended to him, by the English government, to lay
+before the legislature of Antigua the necessity of building
+barracks for the accommodation of the regiment of foot stationed
+in the island, or else assign them quarters, by billeting them
+upon the several estates, or in the towns. Hitherto, they were
+scattered all over the country, obtaining shelter wherever they
+could, and consequently, they became very disorganized. It was,
+however, not until the year 1741, that these recommendations were
+carried into effect, when barracks were erected upon Rat Island;
+and, in 1753, additional barracks were built at the head of the
+town. The Antiguans were this year alarmed by a conspiracy among
+the negroes, which, however, appears to have been confined to
+those belonging to a Mr. Crump. As upon trial they were not
+thought worthy of death, it was resolved to banish eight of the
+principal offenders, who were to be sent to Maryland or Virginia,
+or else sold to such persons who would agree to transport them to
+the Spanish coasts, with the proviso that if they returned to
+Antigua, they were immediately to be executed.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p88" class="pagenumber" title="Lord Forbes."></a>
+A thousand pounds were granted to his excellency Thomas Pitt,
+Earl of Londonderry, this year, in addition to the usual salary;
+and the emoluments arising from a duty of 3<i class="currency">s.</i> 6<i class="currency">d.</i> per ton,
+upon all vessels clearing from the island, having on board native
+produce, was also settled upon him as long as he continued in the
+government. As, however, the next year, (1729,) transient factors
+were allowed exemptions from the charge of 3<i class="currency">s.</i> 6<i class="currency">d.</i> per ton,
+(on the ground of their paying 2<i class="currency">l.</i> for every 100<i class="currency">l.</i> imported,)
+which would tend to decrease the governor’s salary, a further sum
+of a thousand pounds was granted to supply all deficiencies. As
+there had been no government house erected since the affair of
+Colonel Parke, the Antiguans renting a house for that purpose,
+which was attended with some disadvantage, Lord Londonderry
+recommended to the council and assembly the necessity of building
+a government house, pointing out at the same time that the want
+of such an accommodation for their governors might thereafter
+prove disadvantageous to the Antiguans. This advice, however,
+appears not to have been followed, for it was not until after
+1800, that the present government house was erected. The laws of
+Antigua were also this year recommended to be sent to the agent
+in England, to have them printed.</p>
+
+<p>Many other regulations were gone into, tending to the welfare of
+Antigua; and it was also resolved that if any members of the
+council and assembly were absent, and could not give a
+satisfactory cause, such absentees were to forfeit 5<i class="currency">l.</i>, and
+were sometimes even expelled. During the government of this
+nobleman, a bill passed the two houses of parliament, which had
+been long pending, granting encouragement to the sugar colonies,
+of which Antigua had become one of the most flourishing. Lord
+Londonderry did not live more than a year and a half after his
+appointment; and, upon his demise, the Right Honourable Lord
+Forbes was nominated to the vacant government. The country voted
+a sum of money for his reception, and a house was engaged
+<a id="p89" class="pagenumber" title="Governor Mathew."></a>
+for him; but, after waiting for about six months, and no
+governor making his appearance, it was given up, and the
+government devolved to William Mathew the lieut.-governor.
+The same year, however, Brigadier-general William Crosbie
+was appointed captain-general; but it appears he did not
+accept the office, or the appointment was cancelled by the
+home government; for in the following year he removed to
+New York, where he became governor.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note44" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref44">44</a>] See further as to the Mackinnons, Appendix, No. 13.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note45" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref45">45</a>] Son to Mr. Pitt; famous for the diamond he brought from the
+East Indies, and which he afterwards sold to the King of France.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+
+
+<div id="ch9" class="chapter">
+<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governor William Mathew​—​Insurrection of the
+Negroes​—​A Legend of the Ravine​—​Punishment of the
+Conspirators.</p>
+
+<p class="init">In 1730, William Mathew, Esq., the lieutenant-governor, succeeded
+to this government, vacant by the non-acceptance of Lord Forbes
+and General William Crosbie; and, in the first year of his
+appointment, fresh regulations were made for the payment of such
+slaves as suffered death for crimes, according to the ancient
+custom of the island. The affairs of Fort James were also looked
+into. In 1680, Colonel James Vaughan, of Antigua, had granted to
+his majesty Charles II. and his successors, a certain promontory,
+generally known as St. John’s Point, for the purpose of building
+a fort, and for the support of the matrosses. This had been done
+as far as the erection of Fort James; but the other part of the
+land was not used; and consequently, this year, (1730,) it was
+determined that it should be given to the matrosses; only
+reserving a part which might be wanted for the purpose of
+building hospitals or magazines. In 1731, Antigua suffered very
+much from a long drought; when the want of water was so
+excessive, that a pail of that fluid sold for 3<i class="currency">s.</i> The following
+year (1732) amendments were made in the court of chancery. By the
+regulations of 1715, this court was made
+<a id="p90" class="pagenumber" title="Governor Mathew’s additional instructions."></a>
+to consist of the
+captain-general or governor-in-chief, and five or more members of
+council; but as his excellency was not always upon the island
+when such courts were held, great delays were occasioned, and it
+was determined that in future the president of Antigua should, in
+the absence of the governor, or lieutenant-governor, preside.</p>
+
+<p>After a temporary absence, the Lieutenant-governor William Mathew
+returned to Antigua in the early part of the year 1733, assuming
+the government as captain-general of the Leeward Islands, and
+presented his additional instructions to the council and
+assembly, directing that body to be no longer restricted, as
+formerly, from making any additional allowance to the salary of
+1200<i class="currency">l.</i> per annum, allowed by the home government,
+namely:—​“Whereas, it has been represented to us, that the salary
+of 1200<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling per annum, which we have hitherto thought
+fit to allow out of the duty of four-and-a-half per cent.,
+arising in our Leeward Islands, for our governor-in-chief of
+these islands, is not at present sufficient for his support and
+the dignity of that our government, we have taken the same into
+our consideration, and are graciously pleased to permit and allow
+that the respective assemblies of our said islands may, by any
+act or acts, settle upon you such sum or sums, in addition to
+your salary of 1200<i class="currency">l.</i> per annum, as they shall think proper;
+and you are hereby allowed to give your assent to any act or acts
+of assembly to that purpose. Provided, such sum or sums be
+settled on you and your successors in that government; at least
+on you during the whole time of your government there, and that
+the same be done by the first respective assemblies of our said
+island after your arrival there.”</p>
+
+<p>In accordance with this new arrangement, the council and assembly
+readily granted an annual sum of 1000<i class="currency">l.</i> Antigua currency.</p>
+
+<p>In 1734, copper coins were imported from England, and passed at
+about the same rate they do at this day. Bayonets were also
+introduced this year into Antigua, for the use of
+<a id="p91" class="pagenumber" title="The fate of Klaas."></a>
+the militia, they having been found to answer so well in the
+late wars in Flanders. These weapons obtained their name
+from being first manufactured at Bayonne, in France.</p>
+
+<p>The events of the year 1736 were such as to strike horror
+into the hearts of all the white inhabitants of Antigua. The
+negroes, who, as we have before seen, attempted an insurrection
+in 1728, attributed their want of success to the fact
+of their having no regular plan; and accordingly they chose
+one of their tribe, a very powerful black man, to be their
+king; and vowed to render to him the strictest homage, and
+follow his every order. This man, whose real name was
+“Klaas,” although his master called him Count, was a person
+of undaunted courage and strong resolve; and, was it not
+on account of the demise of Governor Mathew’s son,
+which frustrated their original plan of blowing up government
+house (or at least the house which was hired for the
+governor at Clark’s Hill) with gunpowder, the night a grand
+ball was to be given in honour of the anniversary of the
+king’s coronation, no doubt Antigua would have been another
+“Hayti,” and “Klaas” another “Christophe.”</p>
+
+<p>There is still an old tradition, which relates to this melancholy
+subject; and as it may not prove uninteresting to some of my
+readers, I will give it in a newer dress.</p>
+
+<p class="legend">The Fate of Klaas.</p>
+
+<p class="subhead">A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE.</p>
+
+<p>At a late period in the evening of the 3rd of October, 1736, two
+horsemen might be seen riding slowly along the high road which
+leads from the capital to English Harbour. The eldest of these
+travellers was probably past the meridian of life; but his round
+florid face bore not a mark of care, nor could a single wrinkle
+be detected upon his open forehead. Age, indeed, had tinged his
+hair with grey, and, perhaps, slightly bent his form; but had
+neither depressed his spirits nor robbed his laughing blue eye of
+its lustre. In
+<a id="p92" class="pagenumber" title="The fate of Klaas:"></a>
+person he was tall and robust; and although
+jollity was written upon every feature, he possessed at the same
+time that air of determination which would make few wish to
+thwart him in his views, or offer an insult that was sure to be
+resented. The animal he bestrode was of a coal-black, and, like
+his master, bore his years well. Logo, as he was called, had
+often followed the hounds in “merrie England;” and, when his
+master came to take possession of a property in Antigua, his
+faithful steed, the sharer of many a long day’s sport, was not to
+be left behind.</p>
+
+<p>The companion of this first-mentioned traveller was, in every
+respect, far different. Scarcely had seventeen summers passed
+over his head; and his slight, but well-formed person, was in
+direct contrast to the large and heavy make of his friend. His
+rich brown locks clustered around his lofty brow unspoiled by
+powder; but in his large dark eye, consumption had lit its fire,
+and flushed, at times, his naturally pale cheek.</p>
+
+<p>“Come, Edward,” said the elder traveller, addressing the youth;
+“we must mend our pace, lad: here’s Logo champing his bit with
+every mark of anger at being kept with tightened reign: the old
+fellow has too much mettle still left to like this hippopotamus
+trot, when he has an hungry stomach, and the prospect of a
+well-stored stable before him.”</p>
+
+<p>“Ay, uncle; and one there is at home, who must be as anxiously
+looking for us, as Logo is for his stable.”</p>
+
+<p>“What, Marien? Well, I dare say the girl feels the loss of her
+cousin Edward from the side of her spinet, if she don’t her old
+father from his settle in the gallery. Women love those little
+attentions you know so well to offer; and Marien would miss you
+from tuning her lute, or turning the pages of her music book, as
+I should old Logo, were anything to happen to him. Dame Nature
+has made you, boy, to shine in lady’s bower, more, I think, than
+in tented field.”</p>
+
+<p>The deepest hectic sprang to the face of the youth, as his uncle
+uttered these words, and a half-smothered sigh broke
+<a id="p93" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the ravine."></a>
+from his lips, which, catching the attention of his companion,
+caused him to turn and look ardently at him.</p>
+
+<p>“Nay, dearest Edward, I meant not to distress you; I hope your
+trip to these sunny shores may restore you to stronger health;
+and then you may follow the steps of your brave father, and fight
+your country’s battles. But we must not loiter any longer upon
+the road; for, in truth, I like not the appearance of the night,
+and we have no shelter near. I care not for myself, for I have
+weathered too many a storm to shrink from a sprinkling; but you
+are still delicate; and your cousin Marien will scold me for
+having already kept you out in the heavy night dew of this
+climate.”</p>
+
+<p>So saying, they gave their steeds the rein, and dashed on,
+throwing the loose pebbles with which the road was strewed, on
+every side.</p>
+
+<p>The night, indeed, was far from promising; the wind blew in
+sudden gusts, and whirled the dead leaves on every side. A low
+moaning sound came from the distant mountains, the sure
+forerunner of a storm; while peals of thunder broke upon the ear.
+The black clouds drifted rapidly along the sky, and several
+meteors gilded the night with their evanescent glories. Suddenly
+a deep silence prevailed, broken only by the sound of the horses’
+feet upon the flinty road, as the benighted travellers struck
+their rowels into the sides of the animals, to urge them to
+greater speed. But this boding silence did not last long; the
+wind again rose with redoubled violence​—​the thunder rolled in
+awful peals​—​and a sheet of vivid lightning covered the whole face
+of the heavens; clap followed clap in rapid succession, shaking
+the very earth to its centre; the rain came down in torrents, yet
+still the red-winged lightning struggled through it, and kept up
+its terrific fire.</p>
+
+<p>A moment’s pause in the storm gave the elder traveller time to
+exclaim​—​“Well, Edward, my prognostications have proved true, have
+they not? Poor Marien must indeed feel anxious;” when, just at
+this instant, a dark object issued out of a kind of ravine which
+appeared on one side of the road,
+<a id="p94" class="pagenumber" title="The fate of Klaas:"></a>
+and darted across the path
+close to the horses’ heads. “What was that?” continued the
+speaker. “Was it man or animal? My glance was so momentary, that
+indeed I know not.” “A boy,” returned his companion, “an’ my eyes
+deceived me, or it was Marien’s dumb page.” “What! Julio?
+Impossible! What could the boy do abroad in such a night?
+unless”​—​and the speaker paused; “unless, indeed, Marien sent him
+forth to gain some tidings of us; for although the poor little
+fellow was born deaf and dumb, he has the brightest intellect and
+swiftest foot of any negro I ever knew. I have often promised to
+tell you his story; and as the tempest seems to have worn away a
+little, I may as well give it now, which will tend to make the
+road seem the shorter.</p>
+
+<p>“Julio’s mother was the foster-parent of my own Marien, although
+at that period she did not belong to me. But she was a great
+favourite of my wife’s, and for that reason we hired her to nurse
+our child; and after my wife’s death, I purchased her from her
+old master, who was a friend of mine. Nuno was a very superior
+negress; and was it not on account of her husband, ‘Count,’ whom
+I pointed out to you the other day as the reputed king of the
+negroes, I do really think she might have been living now. She
+never would say <i>what</i> he did to her, or indeed make any
+complaint against him; but I am certain there was something
+mysterious about it; for when afterwards she was confined with
+Julio, she made it her dying request to me that Count might never
+know the child was his, or the boy be told who his father was.
+This ‘Count,’ as he is called, although I believe he bears
+another name, made a great deal of talk in the country some few
+years ago. It appears, his master had him severely flogged for a
+trifling offence, and Count ran away; but he afterwards came
+back, and all was forgiven, although his master might have had
+him hung for it, without any loss to himself. There is a law of
+the island, which punishes with death any negro who runs away for
+longer
+<a id="p95" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the ravine."></a>
+than three months, and the country pays their value to
+their owners. I heard a flying report of an intended insurrection
+of the negroes while we were in town to-day; but for my part, I
+give no credit to it. They have not forgotten the rebellion of
+Crump’s negroes yet, and the punishment awarded to the offenders,
+which will keep them quiet, at least for a little time. I have
+heard, that Count was concerned in that affair; but none of the
+culprits mentioned his name; and although, from the character of
+the man, I should not think it unlikely, for the sake of poor
+Juno, I would not accuse him. But to return to Julio. His mother
+died immediately after his birth, and no one but ourselves, and
+his mother’s brother, a slave named Cuffee, know who is his
+father. Upon finding the poor child was deaf and dumb, our hearts
+have been drawn the closer to him; and as soon as my affairs are
+arranged in this island, I shall return to England, and intend
+carrying Julio with me.”</p>
+
+<p>By this time, the travellers had gained an ascent, and before
+them was spread a cluster of negro-huts, various out-buildings,
+and works of a flourishing estate; while on the top of another
+eminence stood the hospitable mansion of the owner. In a moment,
+all was bustle. “Massa come home!” was shouted from one to
+another, as a party of black boys and men started from their
+slumbers upon the dry trash, and ran to take the horses. After
+seeing Logo properly attended to, the travellers walked to the
+house, where, at an open jalousie, a slight figure, whose
+graceful outline bespoke it Marien’s, was seen watching their
+progress. The family party having once more met, and a thousand
+inquiries as to their ride &amp;c. having been made, Marien touched a
+silver bell, and a domestic entering, orders were given to send
+in Julio. “By-the-bye,” exclaimed the elder gentleman, “didst
+thou send forth Julio in search of your <i>absentees</i> to-night,
+Marien?”​—​“No, dearest father; Julio has not left the anteroom
+since dinner, that I am aware of. Anxious as I was to gain
+tidings of you, the night was too inclement to send the poor
+child
+<a id="p96" class="pagenumber" title="The fate of Klaas:"></a>
+abroad. But why do you ask that question?”​—​“Oh! nothing;
+only that our bright-eyed Edward thought he saw him cross the
+road at the ravine down yonder; but I think it must have been a
+dog, or something of the kind. However, to be certain, I
+mentioned it to you.” At this moment the door opened, and Julio
+entered. He had, perhaps, attained his eighth year; but from his
+diminutive form, a stranger would have thought him even younger.
+His dress was a kind of white tunic embroidered with crimson, and
+a broad belt of gilded leather, with tassels of bullion, gathered
+it in folds around his slender waist. Smart silk stockings
+encased his legs, and white leather shoes, ornamented with gold,
+graced his little feet. When abroad, a small crimson cap, in
+which was placed a single ostrich feather, reposed upon his head:
+its snowy plume strangely contrasting with his ebon complexion.
+It was Marien’s whim to dress her page in this fantastic manner,
+and her indulgent parent never thwarted her in any of her little
+pleasures.</p>
+
+<p>The deficiencies of poor Julio’s external faculties did not
+extend to his intellects. The slightest action of Marien’s was
+noticed by him, and her every wish gratified, if possible. Did a
+shade pass over her brow, he flew for her lute, or arranged her
+books at the spinet; did a smile illuminate her face, Julio
+jumped for joy. It was his task to gather for her the sweetest
+fruits, and range the tangled copse and dell to cull the fairest
+flowers; and when she walked abroad, he attended the steps of his
+young mistress, and swept from her path every noisome insect.
+Bright were the eyes of Julio, and joyous was the look expressed
+in his dark round face; but on this evening, when, at the summons
+of his mistress, he stood before her, every one was struck with
+the alteration in his appearance. His cheek was blanched to an
+unearthly hue​—​his eyes, bloodshot and dim, sought the floor;
+while a shudder seemed to run through his frame, as if he saw
+some dreaded form. To the anxious inquiries of the party,
+expressed by significant gestures, the boy only shook his
+<a id="p97" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the ravine."></a>
+head,
+while a darker shade of sadness passed over his brow. Thinking
+that a slight degree of illness was the cause, Marien kindly
+dismissed him to his repose, in hopes the morrow’s dawn would
+restore him to his usual gaiety, and rising from her seat, placed
+in her father’s hand a small billet. “A grand ball at Government
+House, eh! to be given in honour of our good king’s coronation.
+What say you to that, young people? Wilt thou pay thy devotions
+at the shrine of the laughter-loving muse? No doubt, all the
+beauty and fashion of Antigua will be there. But come, the hour
+is past midnight; and if I keep our Marien up so late, she will
+lose the last of her roses she brought from Old England.” So
+saying, the party separated for the night; and the scene changes
+to another spot, at an earlier hour.</p>
+
+<p class="subhead"> * * * * * </p>
+
+<p>In one of the deepest parts of a ravine grew a variety of tangled
+bushes, which clothed it to its very bottom with their verdant
+foliage. Disrupted rocks were thickly scattered about, over which
+glided the speckled snake, while cricket and frog kept up an
+incessant chirping. About the commencement of the storm already
+described, a dark figure was seen slowly, but firmly descending
+the steep bank of the ravine, whose nearer approach bespoke him a
+son of Ham, one who wore the chain of bondage. In height he
+measured about six feet, while his broad chest and muscular arms
+shewed his Herculean strength. His complexion was of the deepest
+jet, and his large black eye shone with the fierceness of a
+firebrand. A mantle of dark blue cloth was wrapt around his form,
+leaving his arms and legs bare; and his head was bound round with
+a scarlet handkerchief, the ends of which floated in the breeze
+with graceful negligence. In one hand he bore a massive club,
+which assisted his steps in his descent; while the other rested
+upon a horse-pistol, which, heavily loaded, lay hid in the folds
+of his garment. Upon gaining the bottom of the ravine, he looked
+cautiously around; and
+<a id="p98" class="pagenumber" title="The fate of Klaas:"></a>
+then, as if satisfied all was right, he
+raised a conch-shell to his lips, and blew a low but clear blast.
+This repeated thrice, he seated himself upon one of the rocks;
+and burying his face in his hands, mused in silence, unmindful of
+the threatening appearance of the heavens. But a few minutes
+passed, when he again started to his feet, and blew a louder
+blast, which at a short interval was answered by a low whistle;
+and the crackling of dry leaves (as if trodden under foot)
+proclaimed the approach of other visitants. Drawing the pistol
+from its confinement, the first occupant of the ravine stepped a
+few paces forward, and, in a voice rendered thick by contending
+passions, demanded the word. “Death to our foes!” was the answer;
+and in another moment, about forty negroes stood around their
+king. “Welcome, brave friends, to this lone spot; for here at
+least we can feel we are free, and bid defiance to the hated
+whites. But where is Morah? Surely she will not desert us,
+Tomboy?” And he directed his looks to a short stout man, who
+ranked as his general, and answered to that name, and who had
+taken up his post at the right shoulder of his sable majesty.
+“Oh, no; Morah knows too well to desert Klaas at his need.
+Believe not that,” returned the man. “We should have been here
+long before, but she was knocked up with her walk, and we were
+obliged to wait her will. But see!”​—​and touching the arm of
+Klaas, he pointed to two lusty youths who were coming down the
+bank, bearing between them some object, which could scarcely be
+pronounced human. Placing their burden safely at the feet of
+Klaas, the young men drew back, while he, giving her his hand,
+raised and placed her upon a rocky seat near himself. The woman,
+(for so she proved,) although looking more like the habitant of
+another world, must have numbered her hundredth year. Her face,
+which had lost its naturally black hue from age and sickness, was
+puckered up in a thousand wrinkles; while her toothless gums were
+seen through her thick open lips. The few hairs which time had
+left her were bleached to a snowy white;
+<a id="p99" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the ravine."></a>
+but her black eyes had
+lost none of their brightness: they gleamed from beneath her
+overhanging brow with a supernatural ray. Her form was bent
+almost double, and the skin hung about her hands and arms like
+black and shrivelled parchment. An old blanket partly covered her
+attenuated person, which she firmly grasped with her long bony
+fingers; but it afforded her no defence against the inclemency of
+the evening; for she shivered and trembled at every blast. Such
+was Morah, the old Obeah woman,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref46" href="#note46">46</a>]</sup> who was hated, yet dreaded,
+by nearly all her tribe.</p>
+
+<p>“Morah,” said the leader of the band, after she had rested for a
+few minutes, “Morah, dost thou not know me? hast thou forgot the
+purpose for which we have met? The time is short, remember.”</p>
+
+<p>“Oh, no, no! me no forget,” said the old crone; “me know you very
+well; you’re ‘Count,’ the negro king, as you call yourself, but
+your massa call you ‘Count the Runaway,’” and she laughed
+demoniacally.</p>
+
+<p>“Call me Klaas,” shrieked the negro; “oh! call me not Count​—​the
+name of my servitude​—​the name those detested whites gave me when,
+torn from all my heart holds dear, and forced into their ships,
+they brought me to this country, and sold me, for a miserable
+pittance, to the man I despise​—​the man who, for a small fault,
+had me flogged until the blood gushed down my back. Yes! flogged
+<i>me</i>, who was born heir to a kingdom, and who followed the chase
+in my own bright land, free as the zephyr which kisses its sunny
+mountains, until the fortunes of war made me the despised,
+degraded slave I am. Call me not ‘Count,’ I say; for every misery
+I have ever borne is recalled by that hated name. Why was it I
+spurned poor Nuno from me, and embittered her after life?
+Because, in a moment of repose​—​when the weary toil of the day was
+over​—​seated before our hut in the bright moonbeam, I talked to
+her of Africa, and of my hopes of soon escaping from my degraded
+state, she raised
+<a id="p100" class="pagenumber" title="The fate of Klaas."></a>
+the demon within me by calling me ‘Count,’ when
+I had taught her to use no other name but ‘Klaas;’ and thus
+bringing all my wrongs before me, I vowed to sacrifice our child
+to the gods of my country should its eyes ever see the light. Oh,
+then, call me not ‘Count’ in this wild ravine, where everything
+breathes an air of freedom, although I am obliged to bear it (but
+not for long, I hope) before the abhorred Christians. Oh! call me
+not ‘Count.’ unless—” and he flung his arms on high, while his
+eyeballs rolled in fire, and every nerve quivered with
+emotion​—​“unless you wish to see me, like the hunted lanté turn on
+all alike. But enough;”​—​and by strong effort he mastered his
+turbulent passions, although the perspiration flowed from off his
+forehead in large drops, and his breast heaved like the stormy
+billow;​—​“I came not here to-night to recite my wrongs, or the
+wrongs of these my comrades; but to plan our redemption from
+them, and the destruction of our enemies. To business, then. But
+first let me ask you, Morah, has Obeah given the sign?”</p>
+
+<p>“An’ think you me come here to-night had he not?” returned the
+old woman, doggedly; “ay, that he has, and a good sign it is; but
+p’raps you no want white man dead, eh? And again the hag uttered
+her horrible laugh, which seemed still more so in the midst of a
+clap of thunder, while her miserable form looked more unearthly
+in the lightning’s flash.</p>
+
+<p>“Death to our foes!” broke from the lips of the leader, which was
+repeated by all the band; and then breaking up the circle in
+which they had been standing, they proceeded to prepare the
+different articles used in their superstitious orgies, under the
+inspection of old Morah, while Klaas and his general, Tomboy,
+conferred apart.</p>
+
+<p>A large hole being dug in the middle of the ravine, and all
+things properly arranged, the king and his companion were called;
+when, joining in a rank around the opening, the mysterious rites
+began. Morah, squatting at one end of
+<a id="p101" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the ravine."></a>
+the aperture, called upon
+Obeah, under the title of Nzambiampongee, to assist them in the
+extirpation of their foes; and after many a mumbled incantation,
+proceeded to bury in the hole small quantities of gunpowder,
+rusty iron, a little money, and a portion of human hair; while
+Klaas added to the heap by throwing in a few bujis.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref47" href="#note47">47</a>]</sup> After
+another incantation was chanted by them all, the hole was
+carefully covered over with black dog-bush,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref48" href="#note48">48</a>]</sup> and the earth
+once more thrown in and pressed down. At this moment a
+night-raven screeched, and Morah interpreted it as a kindly sign
+from Obeah; whilst a beautiful speckled snake, gliding over the
+spot, was greeted by Klaas as his country’s god. This ceremony
+over, Morah departed, and other business was discussed. Seated
+upon his rustic throne, Klaas issued his mandates to his
+attentive subjects, who, stretched around, looked up to him as
+their presiding divinity.</p>
+
+<p>“In eight days’ time,” began their king, in a distinct and
+audible tone, “there is to be a ball given by the governor, in
+honour, they say, of their king, and as all our tyrants are
+expected to be present, it has been determined to make that night
+the scene of our grand endeavours, that, at one stroke, shall
+destroy our enemies, and make us once more free. Under yonder
+bushes, where the earth looks fresh, are buried the kegs of
+gunpowder which we have, at various times, been enabled to
+collect; and the night before the ball takes place do you,
+Quashey Coonah, make it your business to remove them carefully up
+to Clark’s hill, where Harry, who has been lately hired there,
+will have them placed under the cellar. Frank, I look to you to
+take care of what arms we have procured, and also to distribute
+them. You will also have those bills sharpened​—​they may prove
+very useful. I make it my duty to fire the train about the time
+the moon rises above the top of yon mountain, while
+<a id="p102" class="pagenumber" title="The fate of Klaas."></a>
+Tomboy will
+lead the party who is to prevent any of the whites escaping.
+Hercules will lay in wait with his band at the entrance of the
+town; so that, when the flames rise high, and the inhabitants
+hasten to give them assistance, he may fall upon them and prevent
+them. I have sent him and Jemmy to meet a large party of negroes
+up to windward to-night, who, no doubt, will aid us with their
+force; and as many of them are in the habit of going out shooting
+for their masters, they may be able to add a little to our stock
+of powder. Ned, do you try and obtain what arms you can; in such
+a cause, any means are fair.</p>
+
+<p>“Ah! that I will, King Klaas; and look what I have brought you
+to-night,” and turning round, he drew from its sheath a blade of
+the finest steel; “what say you to Massa Colonel’s own good
+sword. He told me to take care of it to-day, after he had done
+looking at it, and to put it carefully up; and so I have, ah!
+ah!” and Ned laughed until the water ran down his cheeks.</p>
+
+<p>“That’s right, my fine fellow!” exclaimed Klaas; and taking it
+from the hand of his comrade, he examined, with intense interest,
+its shining surface. After some moments had passed in this
+employment, he replaced it carefully in its sheath, and, with
+something like a sigh, exclaimed,—​“Well, I have been driven to
+this. They might have made me their friend, but harshness,
+contempt, and insult, has conspired to render me what I am; and
+for this bright weapon, perhaps the gallant Colonel Morgan has
+often drawn it in a far less worthy cause. But hist! I hear the
+sound of horses’ feet, and it is time we part. At the close of
+three more days, meet me here again to receive final orders; till
+then, farewell; and remember our motto​—​‘Death to our foes!’” So
+saying, Klaas rose from his seat, and grasping once more his
+club, prepared to depart. At this moment, however, a slight
+rustle was heard among the brushwood, as if some person was
+retreating, and Klaas, drawing his pistol from his bosom, started
+forward in that direction, followed by the others. “What could it
+be?” was the
+<a id="p103" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the ravine."></a>
+anxious inquiry, when, after a strict search, no
+object met their view. “What, indeed!” replied their chief; “if
+it was any of our friends, why did they not come forward; but if
+it was a foe​—​a spy​—​our plans of vengeance will be defeated, and
+we ourselves dragged to a felon’s death;” and he ground his teeth
+at the thought. As nothing else could be done, they once more
+bade good night, and departed to their respective homes, leaving
+Klaas and his general to make one more attempt to discover the
+cause of the noise.</p>
+
+<p class="subhead"> * * * * * </p>
+
+<p>Six times had the chariot of the sun rolled along the heavens,
+and bright-eyed Phœbus sought his golden couch, since the
+conspirators gathered around their king in that wild and silent
+glen. Among the inhabitants of Antigua nothing was talked of but
+the governor’s ball, which was to be upon the grandest scale
+imaginable. Many a young heart beat high at the prospect of its
+gaieties, and many a bright eye grew brighter at the thoughts of
+the conquests to be made on that eventful night. The few shops
+which dealt in European fashions were crowded from morning to
+night with fair visitants, or their <i lang="fr">femmes de chambre</i>; and
+laces and bugles, catgut and tiffany, were in constant demand.
+The busy sempstresses plied their needles with double speed; and
+various were the flounces and furbelows, pinkings and quiltings,
+they invented. In the midst of this bustle and activity, this
+anticipation of joyous festivities, a plaint of distress was
+borne down upon the gale: the governor’s best-beloved son​—​the
+hope and pride of his parents​—​tossed his fevered head upon the
+couch of sickness; and in a few short hours, that beautiful and
+blooming youth lay a stiffened corse.</p>
+
+<p class="subhead"> * * * * * </p>
+
+<p>In a large but well-arranged apartment, whose open <i>jalousies</i>
+admitted the evening breeze, loaded with the fragrance of the
+Arabian jasmine, were seated three persons. Two out of the group
+ranked under the lofty title of “lords of the creation;” but the
+third was a young and beautiful creature, whose elegant figure
+and flowing ringlets bespoke
+<a id="p104" class="pagenumber" title="The fate of Klaas."></a>
+her one of Nature’s fairest flowers.
+Reclining upon a <i lang="fr">fauteuil</i>, she drew from a lute sounds so soft
+and sweet that every sense was held in thraldom; and anon, when
+she joined her liquid voice, and sang of other days, few were
+there who would wish to break the spell. But the spell was
+ordained to be broken​—​broken in a sudden manner. The door opened
+hastily, and a negro, darting into the middle of the room,
+exclaimed, in a voice of terror​—​“Massa, me must speak with
+you!”​—​“What’s the matter?” returned our elder acquaintance,
+rising up, “what’s the matter, Cuffee? You frightened us by your
+sudden entrance, and sent my Marien’s roses back to her
+heart.”​—​“Beg your pardon, massa, and yours, young missis, but me
+have something to tell you make your ears ring again: but, massa,
+where’s Julio?​—​please let him come in.” And without waiting for
+an answer, he left the room in search of the boy. “Marien,
+dearest,” said her father, “take your cousin’s arm, and retire
+for a little, until I have heard what the mad fellow has to say:
+his foolish nonsense has frightened you more than I like to see.”
+And fondly pressing his daughter’s hand, he led her to the door.</p>
+
+<p>In a few minutes Cuffee returned with the boy Julio, who wore the
+same downcast look as he did on the evening of the storm; and,
+holding the boy by the hand, gave his master the following
+narration. Julio, who, from being deaf and dumb, appeared to
+possess the other senses in a higher degree, had one evening
+observed a strange negro loitering about his master’s estate, and
+hiding behind the bushes when any one passed. Thinking this
+peculiar, the dumb boy determined to watch his proceedings, and
+if he discovered anything wrong, to endeavour to acquaint his
+master with it. After spending more than an hour in this
+employment, the stranger departed, and Julio, unable to
+comprehend his motives, and fearful of not being understood, kept
+his discovery to himself. Some weeks had elapsed, and he had
+almost forgotten the circumstance, when, on the
+<a id="p105" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the ravine."></a>
+evening before
+the storm, he saw the same person lurking about the same spot;
+and, watching him unobserved, perceived he was shortly joined by
+a slave, of the name of Quelch, who, for repeated bad behaviour,
+had been punished by his master a few weeks before. After they
+had consulted for some time together, the stranger pointed in the
+direction of the ravine; and putting his hand under his cloak,
+drew forth a long sharp-pointed knife, which he shewed to his
+companion, giving at the same time a peculiar look. The knife
+being returned to its owner, the negroes parted, leaving Julio
+with the determination of watching Quelch more strictly.</p>
+
+<p>On the next evening, leaving his young mistress engaged with a
+book, the boy left the house with the intention of going to look
+for his master; and, upon gaining the high road, he saw Quelch
+entering an opening on the other side. Following his steps, he
+hid himself among the bushes, and thus became a witness of that
+lawless meeting, where, although he could not hear the words
+uttered, he saw enough to inform him some evil was intended.
+Frightened, and uncertain how to tell his discovery, his first
+care was to reach home; and, harassed in mind and body, the poor
+child stood before his mistress in the manner described. The next
+morning, he sought his uncle Cuffee, and, by significant gestures
+and passionate mutterings, at length made him understand the
+above relation. Cuffee’s first care was to inform a friend of his
+of the name of Robin, and these two negroes watched the ravine
+every night in hopes of discovering what poor Julio could not
+inform them​—​the names of the conspirators. All, however, remained
+silent: the ravine had no occupants: and Robin and Cuffee were
+almost inclined to think they had misunderstood the boy, when,
+one evening, just as they had gained their accustomed post, they
+thought they heard the sound of voices; and, creeping upon their
+hands and knees, espied the whole band, with Klaas, or, as they
+called him, “Count,”
+<a id="p106" class="pagenumber" title="The fate of Klaas."></a>
+at their head, plotting their dreadful
+schemes. Knowing that this negro king was the father of Julio,
+Cuffee liked not to inform against him; and the next morning
+bringing intelligence of the death of the governor’s son, and
+consequently the prorogation of the ball, he was in hopes the
+negroes would get disheartened at the failure of their plans, and
+forego their horrible intentions. Still he determined to keep an
+eye upon their movements; and a few weeks after, through the
+medium of another slave, named Manuel, he discovered that the
+conspirators intended to put their designs into execution on the
+15th of December; and that they were to have a final meeting in
+the ravine, to receive orders from their king.</p>
+
+<p>These were the tidings Cuffee conveyed to his master’s
+ear​—​tidings which made his stout heart beat faster, and caused a
+shade of care, for once, to cross his brow. The time was short:
+the next night was the one on which the negroes were to meet, and
+Mr. ———, after leaving a kind message to his daughter, to excuse
+his absence, started immediately for the capital, accompanied by
+Robin and Cuffee, to lay the information before the proper
+authorities.</p>
+
+<p class="subhead"> * * * * * </p>
+
+<p>The evening was calm. There was no moon, but the stars shone
+bright, and, by their refulgence, parties of men were seen
+walking cautiously along in the same direction. Every now and
+then they stopped as if to listen, and then proceeded again, as
+no sound met their ear. Leaving the high road, they struck across
+a wild and sterile plain, until, arriving at the bank of a kind
+of rocky defile, where the sable conspirators held their
+nocturnal meetings, they separated; and taking up their position
+on all sides, and holding their very breath, they presented more
+the appearance of marble statues than living men. After remaining
+in this situation for some time, a noise was heard as the tramp
+of a body of horse passing over a flinty road​—​no uncommon
+occurrence at that period. The sound came nearer and nearer, and
+presently a large band of soldiers appeared in sight, led by a
+<a id="p107" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the ravine."></a>
+middle-aged officer, and accompanied by several gentlemen. Riding
+for a short distance past the ravine, the word was given, “Halt!”
+and in a moment the horses stood motionless. “Dismount!” broke
+from the lips of the commander, and the men, all heavily armed,
+sprang to the ground. Walking quickly forward, they joined the
+watchers around the ravine, while their leader, followed by many
+others, bounded down the bank, and exclaimed, in a stentorian
+tone, “Surrender! or you are dead men.” All was confusion among
+the assembled conspirators. Hemmed in on all sides, and daunted
+by the gleaming arms and pointed muskets of the soldiers, who
+came so silently but surely upon them, the negro band were driven
+to despair. Klaas alone maintained his firmness, and shouted in a
+voice of thunder, “Fire the gunpowder, lads, fire the gunpowder,
+and let us die as brave men, and not as cowards. Who will mourn
+the fate which will be shared by our hated tyrants!” But this was
+not to be. Overpowered by numbers, their arms tightly pinioned
+behind them, their mouths gagged, and held between two soldiers,
+negro after negro was marched off​—​the ravine was left to its
+usual silence​—​and the reign of “Klaas,” the “Slave King,” was
+over.</p>
+
+<hr/>
+
+<p>So ends the legend. The conspirators being conveyed to the
+capital, various were the punishments awarded them. Klaas, or, as
+he was more generally called, “Count,” Tomboy, and Hercules were
+broken alive upon the wheel. In their last moments their
+fortitude did not forsake them; and their last words expressed
+their hatred to the whites. Some were gibbeted alive in a place
+called Green’s Bay. Frank, who belonged to E. Chester, Esq., and
+several more, were burned in Otto’s pasture, at the outskirts of
+the capital; and the rest, who were looked upon as the dupes of
+their reputed king, were transported to the Spanish coasts.
+Quelch was pardoned: he played the traitor’s part, and amused the
+ear of Klaas and his comrades
+<a id="p108" class="pagenumber" title="Laws respecting slaves."></a>
+with some chimerical scheme while
+the soldiers passed by who accomplished their destruction; and
+old Morah, the Obeah woman who attended their meetings, escaped
+punishment by falling a prey to death before her trial. So
+signal was the victory obtained, and so severe the punishment of
+the conspirators, that the remaining slaves became intimidated,
+and quietly bore their yoke without seeking for deliverance. In
+1739, the country emancipated Cuffee and Robin for their
+discovery of this insurrection, paying to their masters their
+respective value, and presented Manuel with a reward for his
+services in that affair.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref49" href="#note49">49</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note46" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref46">46</a>] A dealer in necromancy.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note47" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref47">47</a>] A small white shell, about the size and shape of an olive,
+used as the general currency in Guinea.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note48" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref48">48</a>] A wild shrub, supposed to be of great use in witchcraft.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note49" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref49">49</a>] For some further particulars, see Appendix, No. 14.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch10" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governor William Mathew​—​Sir George Thomas,
+Bart.​—​James Verchild​—​Honourable William
+Woodley​—​Sir Ralph Payne​—​Hon. Craister
+Greathead​—​General Burt​—​The circumstances of his
+death​—​Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart.</p>
+
+<p class="init">After the suppression of the insurrection related in the last
+chapter, it was resolved in future to keep a better watch over
+the negroes, and be more strict in the government of them. Slaves
+were not to be allowed to congregate about the streets of St.
+John’s; and if they refused to disperse, when ordered to do so,
+it was justifiable to fire upon them: the country paying for
+those who were shot. If any of the negroes were suspected of
+treasonable practices, conspiracies, or insurrections, they were
+to suffer torture, not extending to death; but in case any of
+them died under the pain of having a limb cut off, &amp;c., the owner
+of such slaves received the value of them from the public
+treasury.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants appear to have been quite alarmed at the state of
+affairs, particularly as there were but few white
+<a id="p109" class="pagenumber" title="Hostilities between France and England."></a>
+people still
+upon the island compared with the negroes. In 1740-1, it was
+again taken into consideration how to increase the number; and
+after some deliberation, it was determined to give further
+encouragement for the importation of white servants, by adding a
+bounty of 40<i class="currency">s.</i> to that already given. It was also ordained,
+that every owner or renter of slaves should, for every thirty
+negroes, have a white man in his employ, under a penalty of
+20<i class="currency">l.</i> for each, according to the number of slaves. This gave
+rise to the custom of building “free tenancies,” which were
+houses given to white persons to reside in, without receiving
+rent for the same; and by this means, the proprietor escaped the
+obligation which the law enforced of employing so many white
+servants or overseers.</p>
+
+<p>In 1741, Rat Island, as it is called, although in reality a
+promontory, was purchased by the country, and barracks and
+fortifications erected thereon. War having broken out between
+England and France, the Antiguans suffered very much in their
+commerce. Commodore Lee had been sent out to protect the trade,
+but, it appears, he did not act like a British officer; for when
+stationed off Antigua, he allowed a French fleet of merchantmen
+and their convoy to pass his vessels without molestation, and
+actually captured some of the Antigua coasters. In 1747,
+complaints against him were sent home, and Commodore Legge was
+despatched to Antigua, with full power to try the case. The
+Antiguans were obliged this year to purchase and maintain a
+vessel to protect their small crafts, so harassed were they by
+the French privateers.</p>
+
+<p>The lieutenant-governor of Antigua, Colonel George Lucas, died
+this year, (1747,) at Brest, where he was detained prisoner,
+having been taken by a French vessel of war, on his way to
+England the year before. The following year, (1748,) a petition
+was sent home, praying his majesty for satisfaction for the
+injury suffered by the incursions of the French. About this
+period, the court-house was commenced to be built,
+<a id="p110" class="pagenumber" title="Governor Thomas."></a>
+on the spot
+where the market used to be held. Hitherto a house was rented for
+that purpose, which was found to be very inconvenient, for many
+reasons; and as there was no particular place appointed for the
+offices of the secretary or provost-marshal, it was found
+expedient to erect such building as soon as possible, and
+appropriate a part of it for those offices.</p>
+
+<p>In 1752, George Thomas, Esq., succeeded his excellency William
+Mathew, Esq., in the government of Antigua, and the rest of the
+Leeward Islands, as captain-general. The following year (1753) a
+fund was raised to purchase land, for the purpose of building
+additional barracks for the accommodation of the regiment of foot
+stationed in Antigua, and also building a guard-house in the town
+of St. John’s. In the same year, an additional support for his
+excellency, George Thomas, was appointed to be paid to him during
+his government. The erection of a new church at Parham was
+commenced in 1755; a yearly tax having been imposed upon the
+inhabitants, for the expense of the erection, and for keeping it
+afterwards repaired. This year, too, it was found, that the white
+inhabitants had so materially decreased in number,
+notwithstanding strenuous measures had been taken since 1716 to
+encourage the importation of them, that it was thought necessary
+to offer further inducements to white persons to emigrate from
+England to this colony. In order that this object should be more
+fully carried out, heavier penalties were also this year enforced
+upon proprietors and renters of negroes, if they neglected to
+have in their employ a white Protestant person for every thirty
+slaves; for many owners had evaded the law, by paying the
+penalty, rather than be obliged to maintain a white servant. The
+number of white inhabitants at this period was but little more
+than 3000, while the negroes amounted to about 32,000. In 1757, a
+portion of land was appropriated for building a house for the
+accommodation of the train of artillery in the town of St.
+John’s.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p111" class="pagenumber" title="Introduction of Methodism."></a>
+In 1758, the French threatened an invasion of Antigua. War had
+broken out between England, and France; and, as was always the
+case in such times, the French began to plague their English
+neighbours in the West Indies. The Antiguans, hearing of their
+intentions, hastily equipped several privateers to cruise about
+the island, which were fortunate enough to take some prizes, and
+intimidate the French. It was found by experience, that these
+privateers injured the French more in their commerce than even
+the men-of-war; and for this reason, the country gave great
+encouragement to the fitters-out of such vessels.</p>
+
+<p>The following year, (1759,) Commodore Moore commanded the Leeward
+Island station, and the brave Captain Tyrrel was ordered to
+protect the island of Antigua. This gentleman, whose courage and
+activity were equal to his conduct and circumspection, had, early
+in the month of March previous, demolished a fort at Martinique,
+and destroyed four privateers riding under its protection. On his
+return to Antigua, he discovered a large fleet of the enemy’s;
+and giving immediate chase, attended by the “Weazle” man-of-war,
+he quickly came up with them, and after a desperate fight,
+scattered and dispersed them. Capt. Tyrrel was wounded in the
+face, and lost three of the fingers of his right hand. This year,
+too, the island of Guadaloupe was taken by the English; and the
+Antiguans (on the faith of a proclamation issued by the governor,
+pledging the country to pay the value of such slaves as might be
+killed or desert) sent a large complement of negroes to act as
+pioneers, and assist in drawing the artillery. During the next
+year, several prizes were taken by the Antigua privateers; and
+Captain O’Brien, of H. M. S. “Griffen,” assisted by Captain
+Taylor of the “Temple,” took three large vessels off Antigua, and
+brought them into English Harbour.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1760 is celebrated for the introduction of methodism
+into Antigua, by a Mr. Gilbert, which, from a very small
+beginning, has overspread the whole island, and proved
+<a id="p112" class="pagenumber" title="Governor Verchild."></a>
+of
+infinite value to the inhabitants. In 1761, assurance was
+prohibited on all French vessels and merchandise; and also all
+vessels trading to France, or the French colonies, during the
+war. During this year regulations were made respecting the
+manumission of slaves. Antigua certainly set a bright example to
+the other islands, in days of slavery, of never withholding from
+its negroes <i>that</i> privilege. The following year, 1762, the
+necessity of having the laws of the island printed was again
+brought before the council and assembly, which was unanimously
+agreed to. The same year Antigua again supplied a complement of
+strong negroes, to serve as pioneers, &amp;c., under the command of
+the Right Honourable the Earl of Albemarle, in an intended
+expedition against Martinique. The year 1765 was the last that
+Sir George Thomas continued in the government of the Leeward
+Caribbee Islands.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref50" href="#note50">50</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>James Verchild, Esq., was appointed to succeed Sir George Thomas
+in the government in 1766; and during that year harbour-masters
+were appointed. Antigua still appearing deficient in white
+inhabitants, in 1767 further regulations were made, which would,
+it was hoped, tend to increase the number, and retain in the
+island many families who were upon the point of leaving it. The
+cause of these persons emigrating, it appears, was on account of
+their not being allowed to reckon the female members of their
+family, in the place of a white servant to so many slaves, as the
+law required, as was the case in Jamaica and St. Vincent’s; it
+was therefore deemed expedient this year to give way in this
+respect, and permit two women to count as one man.</p>
+
+<p>In 1768, William Woodley, Esq., was appointed commander-in-chief
+of Antigua, and the other Leeward Caribbee Islands. During his
+administration, a dreadful fire broke out in the town of St.
+John’s, which did great damage, but of which a further account
+will be given in another part of this work. Large sums of money
+were granted, and a collection
+<a id="p113" class="pagenumber" title="First appearance of sugar-ants."></a>
+made for the sufferers at
+Liverpool. Precautions were afterwards taken, by regulating
+certain buildings about the capital; but unfortunately those wise
+regulations have long since fallen into disuse. In 1769, the snow
+“Rodney” put into Antigua, in distress. She had been despatched
+from England with convicts, who were to be employed in the State
+of Maryland, but meeting first with bad weather, and afterwards
+long calms, all their provisions were consumed; and when they
+fortunately made Antigua, eleven of the convicts had died from
+starvation, and the survivors had eaten their very shoes.</p>
+
+<p>In 1771, Sir Ralph Payne, K.G., succeeded to the government. His
+excellency was a native of St. Kitts, and was esteemed for many
+qualities. The Antiguans were quite pleased with his nomination,
+supposing he would have the interests of these colonies greatly
+at heart. The first year of his administration the common gaol
+was rebuilt, which had been burnt down in the late fire; and a
+portion of land, contiguous to it, purchased for the purpose of
+enlarging that part appropriated for the use of the debtors. The
+year 1771 is celebrated as that in which the “Sugar Ants” first
+made their appearance in Antigua. They were supposed to have made
+their way from Dominica to this island; and, minute as they are,
+they proved a most formidable enemy, by destroying an immense
+quantity of sugar-canes. This year also marks the appointment of
+Sir George Pownall to the situation of provostmaster-general of
+the Leeward Islands, under letters patent, dated 7th June, in the
+eleventh year of the reign of his majesty George III. This grant
+had been made to the father of Sir George, after the death of the
+former patentee, Mr. Richard Phelps​—​“to be held with all fees,
+rights, profits, privileges, and advantages,” for the lives of
+Mr. Pownall, and his two sons, Sir George Pownall, and Mr. John
+Lillington Pownall.</p>
+
+<p>In 1772, Antigua suffered very much from the effects of a
+hurricane; great damage was done to the shipping both in St.
+John’s Harbour, and also in English Harbour. The
+<a id="p114" class="pagenumber" title="Serious damage by a hurricane."></a>
+“Chatham,”
+commanded by Admiral Parry, the “Seahorse,” and some other
+vessels of his majesty’s service, were driven on shore, and
+several merchantmen were sunk. In 1774, Sir Ralph Payne was
+ordered home, much against the wish of the Antiguans; and a
+petition was forwarded to England praying his majesty to
+re-appoint him.</p>
+
+<p>Craister Greathead, Esq., another West Indian, succeeded Sir
+Ralph Payne as commander-in-chief in 1775, but he appears to have
+given St. Kitts the preference, principally residing in that
+island. Nothing of importance occurred during his administration;
+happily for the Antiguans, war was principally confined to
+another quarter, which gave them a little time to look about
+them, and redress their domestic grievances.</p>
+
+<p>In 1777, General William Mathew Burt was appointed to the
+government, and a suitable residence prepared for his reception.
+The following year, war, blood-stained war, unfurled his red
+banner in these “gems of the sea”​—​these beautiful West Indian
+islands. On all sides of Antigua did the battle rage; island
+after island surrendered either to French or English prowess; and
+the fears of the Antiguans were raised for the safety of their
+little domicile. Nor was war alone the only impending evil she
+had to dread; the heavens withheld their bounty, and the country
+fainted beneath a burning sun; famine, it was supposed, would be
+the result, and had it not been for the interposition of his
+gracious majesty George III., by advancing 20,000<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling to
+procure subsistence for the negroes, their fears would have
+proved too true. Yet although this kind loan to the country
+averted much evil, the series of calamities they had already
+suffered caused so much sickness, that in the course of the next
+year, 1780, it was the opinion of Dr. Samuel Athill that upwards
+of eight thousand negroes died.</p>
+
+<p>In 1778, fresh regulations were made for the better government of
+slaves, and for establishing certain days, viz.​—​the whole time
+from sunset on Christmas-eve, to sunrise of the 28th of December,
+as their holidays. No other days
+<a id="p115" class="pagenumber" title="Lady Rodney."></a>
+were to be allowed the slaves by
+their owners in place of those specified; and no slave-holder
+could refuse to allow them such holidays, under a penalty of
+100<i class="currency">l.</i>: one-half of the fine to go to the informer, the other
+half to the public treasury​—​during these holidays martial law was
+to be in force.</p>
+
+<p>About this period Lord Rodney took command of the fleet which was
+stationed in these seas, and was fortunate enough to beat off the
+French, and thus spare the Antiguans the horrors of an invasion,
+which was but too successful at St. Kitts. The name of this
+gallant officer is still remembered with gratitude and affection
+by West Indians; and not many years ago, the stranger who visited
+Barbados was highly entertained with an old black woman, who
+passed by the title of “Lady Rodney,” and who wore upon her dark
+fat arm a picture of the Admiral, which he gave her at parting.
+But alas! like the noble lord, she has passed to another world,
+and no longer do the young <i>midds</i> of her majesty’s service, who
+visit Barbados, recognise her shrill cry of “hab best guaba fine
+pine, and hot ginger drink for noung buckru me lob.”</p>
+
+<p>The fortifications of Goat Hill, and Great George Fort, at
+Barnacle Point, were completed during the administration of
+General Burt, as well as several other forts, which were very
+necessary in this season of warfare. About this period slaves
+were forbidden to vend sugar, rum, molasses, or sugar canes,
+besides many other articles.</p>
+
+<p>The circumstances attending the death of Governor Burt were very
+extraordinary. Upon a certain day his excellency honoured a
+gentleman of the island with his company to dinner, and during
+the repast he was as gay as any at that festive board. Soon after
+the cloth was withdrawn, when the laughing wine sparkled in the
+crystal chalice, and, surrounded by all the good things of this
+world, the convivial party threw off all cares, they were
+surprised to hear the governor call to his servant to bring his
+sword, which he always carried abroad with him. Wondering at this
+command, yet too well bred to make inquiries, the company
+<a id="p116" class="pagenumber" title="Death of Governor Burt."></a>
+waited in silence until the order was performed. The sword was
+brought and handed to the governor; when, unsheathing it in an
+instant, he exclaimed, in a loud voice​—​“Tell that fellow to quit
+the back of my chair, or I will run him through!” The company
+were more amazed than ever. What could the governor mean? no one
+was behind his chair; no one was in the room but themselves and
+the domestics. Uncertain what to do or say, they still remained
+silent; when the governor repeated, in a still louder tone, “Send
+away that man, or I will run him through!” It was represented to
+his excellency that he laboured under a mistake, that no one was
+behind his chair; but it was of no avail, all that could be got
+from him was, “Send away that man, or I will run him through!” In
+this state he was carried home, and every art tried to restore
+him to his proper senses; but all was of no avail, he never
+recovered the shock; and in a short time after he fell a prey to
+that insatiable monster, Death, who so justly says—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“I visit the halls of the great and gay,<br/>
+    And snatch them from all their delight away;<br/>
+    I rest at the villager’s humble door,<br/>
+    For welcome alike are the rich and the poor.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>It has been said that the governor was poisoned, and that the
+mixture, or whatever other form it was administered in, was so
+prepared as to have the effects of unsettling his reason; but
+possibly it was a case of <i lang="la">delirium tremens</i>, without the
+assistance of any deleterious drug or herb.</p>
+
+<p>This circumstance is related in a different manner; and as I am
+not aware which is the most correct, will lay them both before my
+readers, that they may judge for themselves. General Burt, it is
+said, was dining at a party at “Pensive Hall,” (the name of the
+great house upon Martin Byam’s estate, now belonging to Messrs.
+Shands, of Liverpool, England,) when he saw an apparition, which
+informed him, that ere twelve moons had waxed and waned, this
+mandate should be issued to him​—​“Thou shalt die and not live!” He
+related the circumstance to the party, and expressed his
+<a id="p117" class="pagenumber" title="Great victory over the French fleet."></a>
+firm belief in it. His friends removed him to the Great
+House upon Weir’s estate, (the present seat of Francis
+Byam Ottly, Esq.,) and by convivial parties, strove to overcome
+his melancholy forebodings; but all was of no effect.
+He finally sailed for England, and died upon his passage, the
+<i>very day twelve months</i> he saw the apparition.</p>
+
+<p>After the death of General Burt, in 1781, Major-General Sir
+Thomas Shirley, Bart., was appointed to the office of
+commander-in-chief. No events of importance marked the first year
+of his government, except that the gallant Admiral Vernon
+obtained a complete victory over the French fleet, between this
+island and Guadaloupe, and followed up his success by many other
+naval conquests. General Prescott, commander of the 69th
+regiment, and the Antiguan troops, landed at St. Kitt’s, and
+drove the enemy before them with great slaughter.</p>
+
+<p>In 1782, St. John’s again suffered severely from a destructive
+fire, which broke out in one of the most densely-populated parts
+of the town. It was this disaster which gave rise to the
+establishment of the “Friendly Fire Company,” every member of
+which pledged himself to keep in good order a certain number of
+buckets; as also to practise themselves in the use of their
+engines. Soon after the formation of this society, the “Phœnix
+Fire Office,” in Lombard-street, London, sent out proposals for
+insurance​—​the first which were ever made in Antigua, and for many
+years, that office was the only one which would grant security
+upon West Indian property.</p>
+
+<p>In 1784, it was resolved to make some alterations in the oaths
+required of white servants. Prior to this year, they were obliged
+to swear to their being Protestants, as well as take the oaths of
+allegiance; from which cause many quiet and useful persons were
+debarred from receiving the rewards held out to other white
+emigrants, on account of their not being nurtured in the
+Protestant religion. It was therefore enacted that no other oaths
+should be required but those of allegiance to the reigning
+monarch and his successors. A
+<a id="p118" class="pagenumber" title="Regulations for the prevention of fire."></a>
+nightly watch was also established
+in the town of St. John’s, and a tax levied upon the inhabitants
+to defray the expenses of it. It was in this year, also, that it
+was contemplated to allow slaves a trial by jury; but it does not
+appear to have been carried into effect until 1798. The former
+method of trying these sable defaulters was to bring them before
+a justice of the peace, and if his worship considered the offence
+worthy of the highest punishment, he called to his aid a
+fellow-justice, and between them they condemned the culprit to
+death, causing such sentence to be immediately executed.</p>
+
+<p>Regulations were again very judiciously made for the better
+erection of kitchens, blacksmiths’ shops, bakeries, &amp;c., in order
+to prevent, as far as possible, the repetition of those fatal
+fires which had so lately devastated great part of the capital.
+Such buildings erected within the precincts of St. John’s were,
+in future, to be constructed of stone or brick, and the roofs to
+be cased with tiles or slates. Like many other wise purposes,
+these regulations have long ago fallen into disuse; and at the
+present day, in an old wooden shed, in the midst of a populous
+neighbourhood, a blacksmith drives his trade; and as you pass the
+open door, his huge fire may be seen vomiting forth its tongues
+of flame, while showers of bright sparks, struck from the glowing
+iron, often find a resting-place amid the surrounding heaps of
+combustibles. Surely such practices ought to be noticed by “the
+powers that be,” particularly when we have lately had such
+distressing proofs of the havoc made by that destructive element.
+In 1784 the churchwardens were empowered to sell certain portions
+of public lands, and to purchase other lots, for the more
+convenient erection of a parish hospital. Amendments were also
+made in the act passed in 1766, for the prevention of damage to
+the harbour of St. John’s, and for appointing a harbour-master,
+who was to be “a person bred to the sea, and otherwise
+sufficiently skilled and qualified to take charge of the port and
+harbour of St. John’s, including the cove.”</p>
+
+<p>In 1786, a tax was raised upon the inhabitants of St.
+<a id="p119" class="pagenumber" title="Prince William Henry."></a>
+John’s, to
+defray the expenses of cleaning and repairing the streets of the
+capital. This must have been very requisite, if they were really
+in the state described in the following passage, (extracted from
+a letter written from Antigua August 1, 1786.) “The streets are
+spacious, but unpaved, <i>nor is there the least care taken to keep
+them clean</i>. The prickly pear bush, and other shrubs, are
+suffered to grow therein, to the annoyance of the passengers, the
+secreting of every species of nastiness, and to the great
+increase of vermin, insects, and reptiles, with which this place
+abounds.” Public billiard and other gaming-tables were
+prohibited, under pain of forfeiture; much to the good order and
+welfare of the island.</p>
+
+<p>In 1787, our late beloved and lamented sovereign William IV.
+(then Prince William Henry) honoured Antigua with a visit. During
+the period of his stay there, he endeared himself to every heart,
+by that kind condescension and sympathy of manner which marked
+his every stage through life. As no doubt it will be interesting
+to my readers to have some account of the manner in which his
+highness passed his time, I will insert the following letter,
+written by John Luffman, the author of the map of Antigua, and
+published, among other of his epistolary productions, in 1789.</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="letdate">“St. John’s, Antigua, Jan. 16, 1787.</p>
+
+<p>“Dear Sir,—​Prince William Henry arrived here the latter end of
+last month in the Pegasus frigate. His appearance has put this
+little community into a ferment. Addresses were immediately
+presented to him from the legislative body, and likewise from the
+merchants, expressive of loyalty to his royal father, and of the
+happiness and honour his highness had conferred on them by his
+gracious visit. The address of the legislature was read and
+presented by a Mr. John Burke, solicitor-general of the Leeward
+Islands, and speaker of the assembly of this island; but,
+notwithstanding this gentleman has been for years hackneyed at
+the bar, and is a bold orator; yet, on this occasion, to the
+astonishment
+<a id="p120" class="pagenumber" title="Prince William Henry."></a>
+of every bystander, he was nearly bereft of the
+power of utterance. The merchants’ address was read and presented
+by a Mr. John Scotland. His highness received these effusions of
+loyalty to his illustrious parent, and of respect to himself,
+with great satisfaction, and returned gracious answers. Each of
+these bodies gave a public dinner and ball for his highness’s
+entertainment. The prince opened both balls with Miss A———
+(Athill), a beautiful young lady of respectable family; and his
+affability, politeness, and condescension, to every person who
+had the honour of his conversation, was as conspicuous as it was
+pleasing. The ladies put their best smiles upon their faces, and
+their best adornments upon their persons; indeed, every
+individual seemed emulous of shewing respect to the royal
+visitor. Many offers of particular attention and civility have
+been made to his highness, which he in general declined, wishing
+rather to appear in the humble character of a private gentleman,
+than in the dignified situation of a prince. How long he means to
+honour this isle with his presence, I cannot with certainty
+learn,​—​it will probably be several months; the people here, I
+believe, hope and <i>wish it may be for years</i>. The negroes look at
+the <i>Grande Bocrah</i> (so they call the prince) with astonishment,
+and sometimes incommode him as he walks the streets; but his
+highness possesses all <i>that admired frankness and noble
+liberality</i> so characteristic in a British seaman, and will
+frequently condescend to talk with them. Capt. Nelson, of the
+“Boreas,” Capt. Holloway, of the “Solebar,” and the other
+principal naval officers on this station, are his highness’s
+chief attendants on all occasions.</p>
+<p class="letyours">“I remain, &amp;c. &amp;c.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1788, two Jews were tried at the court of grand sessions, for
+a robbery committed upon one of their tribe. “Marcus” (the name
+of the one most culpable) was condemned to suffer death by
+hanging, but was afterwards pardoned; while “Vanban” (the name of
+the other culprit) was
+<a id="p121" class="pagenumber" title="Sir Thomas Shirley."></a>
+sentenced to stand in the pillory for a
+certain number of hours. This punishment, however, did not appear
+to make due impression upon the guilty Israelite, for a spectator
+of the exhibition (in a letter written to a friend) describes him
+as standing there with the utmost assurance, “holding, with one
+hand, his hat before his face, and with the other, supporting an
+umbrella to prevent the sun warming his head.”</p>
+
+<p>In the latter end of June, 1788, Sir Thomas Shirley quitted the
+government, and sailed for England in the “Roehampton,” commanded
+by Captain Ross. His excellency, it appears, felt aggrieved at
+some treatment he received from the legislature, and accordingly,
+upon his departure, he refused the vote of civility from that
+body, and proceeded on board the vessel, attended only by his
+private secretary. Mr. Nugent assumed the command as
+lieutenant-governor, and soon after his arrival, a new road,
+leading to Five Islands Division, was made, and great care taken
+to drive piles in that part of the town known as the “Big
+Market,” in order to prevent, if possible, any further
+encroachment of sea, which had, within the last few months,
+almost destroyed the old highway.</p>
+
+<p>In 1790, Sir Thomas Shirley again resumed the government of the
+Leeward Islands, and soon after his arrival, it was enacted by
+the legislature, that it should be lawful for the vestry of St.
+John’s to levy a tax (not exceeding 2<i class="currency">l.</i> per cent. on value of
+goods sold) upon every transient or non-resident trader who shall
+visit the island, which tax was to be applied to the maintenance
+of ministers, the poor of the parish, or any similar purposes.
+The following year the fortifications at Dow’s Hill were
+commenced, the appearance of which, at this day, proves the
+erector’s knowledge of rampart and bastion. Amendments were also
+made (1791) as regarded the keeping of rum-shops, or selling any
+spirituous liquors. Prior to this period, no free negro or
+mulatto could keep such an establishment, or sell any strong
+drink or wine under a heavy penalty; or if even they were
+<a id="p122" class="pagenumber" title="Governor William Woodley."></a>
+concerned in such a business with a white person, it was
+punishable in both; but under this government the case was
+altered, for upon applying to the court of king’s bench, persons
+of their caste and colour could obtain a licence by giving
+security. An act was passed (containing 227 clauses) for the
+better regulating the island courts, and due methods effected for
+an improved administration of justice. It had been formerly the
+practice in Antigua to burn such felons as were within the
+benefit of clergy, in the hand, but this year the punishment was
+commuted to public or private whippings, inflicted once or
+oftener, but not more than at three different periods. This was
+the last decree signed by his excellency: he appears to have been
+an able and just governor, and well calculated for a
+representative of royalty. After the departure of his excellency,
+John Nugent, Esq., resumed the command as lieutenant-governor
+until the following year, when the Honourable William Woodley was
+re-appointed.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note50" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref50">50</a>] For genealogy of this gentleman, and when created a Baronet,
+see Appendix, No. 15.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch11" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governors: William Woodley​—​John
+Stanley​—​Major-General Charles Leigh​—​Archibald
+Esdail​—​John S. Thomas​—​Robert Thomson.</p>
+
+<p class="init">In 1792, William Woodley, Esq., was again appointed
+commander-in-chief; and, soon after his arrival, the increase of
+the importation of white servants was again taken into
+consideration.</p>
+
+<p>Antigua had never reckoned a large population of whites; indeed,
+from various causes, they were continually decreasing. This could
+not be attributed to the want of encouragement given to settlers,
+but from the situation of the island itself. Although Antigua is
+naturally fortified by rocks and breakers, which defends it from
+the attacks of large vessels; yet there are so many creeks and
+harbours (which, with a small population, it was almost
+impossible to protect)
+<a id="p123" class="pagenumber" title="Regulation of the militia."></a>
+that the French and Caribs found it an
+easy matter to land in their canoes, and destroy and plunder the
+country, and ill-treat the inhabitants. From these circumstances,
+emigrants were unwilling to settle here, but preferred going to
+some of the other islands, which were less liable to these
+incursions. To counteract these evils, and increase the number of
+white inhabitants, various plans, as already shewn, had been
+adopted by former governors,—​fines were imposed upon proprietors
+if they did not employ one able-bodied white man to every thirty
+slaves, supposing that would tend to augment the population. But
+as it was found that the law was still eluded, by owners paying
+the penalty rather than maintain so many white servants, it was
+agreed, this year, by the governor, council, and assembly to
+increase the fine to 53<i class="currency">l.</i> 6<i class="currency">s.</i> 8<i class="currency">d.</i> for every deficient white
+servant to forty slaves annually. Possibly this might have had,
+in some degree, the desired effect; for, in 1800, we find there
+were about 3000 white inhabitants to 36,000 negroes, which had
+not been the case for the last forty years.</p>
+
+<p>In 1793, the militia was regulated, and formed into “one squadron
+of light dragoons, who were to serve on foot and horseback; two
+regiments and one independent company of foot; and one battalion
+of artillery.” The dragoons were to be named by the governor and
+council; and although not to be appointed without their own
+consent, when once entered, they were not at liberty to remove to
+another corps, unless promoted by the governor to a commission.
+Only one person from an estate could serve in the dragoons, which
+squadron was to consist of never more than one hundred and eight
+men​—​non-commissioned officers and privates included​—​or less than
+sixty. This was the first year any free negro or coloured person
+was allowed to serve in the militia, when they were appointed to
+the under services of artillery, and to act as pioneers, and made
+subject to the same fines as privates of foot. It appears this
+was also the year uniforms were appointed for the militia, which
+<a id="p124" class="pagenumber" title="Annuity granted to Hon. E. Byam."></a>
+being well arranged, made a good show upon their monthly
+field-days. Antigua was visited this year by a malignant fever,
+which caused a great many deaths. It was supposed to have been
+brought from Grenada in H. M. S. Experiment, and conveyed ashore
+in some of the sailors’ bedding.</p>
+
+<p>John Stanley, Esq., succeeded Mr. Woodley in the government, and
+arrived the latter end of the same year, (1793,) but he did not
+reside often in Antigua, giving St. Kitts the preference. In
+1794, Antigua sent a complement of men, and some negro slaves, to
+assist in the reduction of Martinique and Guadaloupe; and upon
+the taking of those islands, the governor, council, and assembly,
+issued a proclamation, forbidding any free persons of colour, or
+negro slaves belonging to those places, from coming to, or
+remaining in, this island. During the next year an annuity was
+granted to the Honourable Edward Byam, the president of Antigua,
+for his many services to the island, which has been alluded to in
+a former chapter. A sum of money was also raised for defraying
+the expenses of the war, which had been very heavy for the last
+three years.</p>
+
+<p>Major-General Charles Leigh was appointed commander-in-chief in
+1795, but did not continue in the government more than twelve
+months. During this period, it was agreed to allow such of the
+poorer classes of white persons who might be wounded (while
+serving in the militia) so severely as to affect their
+after-life, 70<i class="currency">l.</i> annually; if killed, their widows to receive
+40<i class="currency">l.</i> annually, during their widowhood; and their children,
+20<i class="currency">l.</i> annually, until they attained the age of fourteen.
+Additional pay was also provided for the gunner and matrosses
+employed in the several forts, and new regulations for the better
+ordering of the militia, which in these seasons of danger was
+very necessary, for the West Indies were still in an unsettled
+state, and their old enemies the French were always on the
+look-out for opportunities of increasing their possessions in
+these seas. Major-General Leigh becoming disgusted with the West
+Indies, he determined to return to
+<a id="p125" class="pagenumber" title="Right Hon. Lord Lavington."></a>
+England, and accordingly embarked on board a vessel bound
+for that place, on the 3rd July, 1796, without permission
+from his majesty.</p>
+
+<p>At the departure of Major-General Leigh, there happened to be
+none of the lieutenant-governors of the Leeward Caribbee Islands
+in the West Indies; and accordingly, Archibald Esdail, Esq., a
+counsellor of St. Christopher’s<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref51" href="#note51">51</a>]</sup> claimed the administration of
+the government, and acted as such until his death, which happened
+about three months after; but he did not visit Antigua to take
+upon him the administration of the government, as he ought to
+have done by direction of the reigning monarch. Upon his decease,
+the lieutenant-governors being still absent, John S. Thomas,
+Esq., another resident of St. Christopher’s, represented himself
+as first counsellor, and exercised the office of governor until
+April, the following year, (1797.) Nothing of any consequence
+occurred during his short administration, and very little can be
+said about him in this place, for, like his predecessor, he never
+honoured Antigua with his presence. The Kittefonians appeared to
+have had it all their own way at that period, for no sooner had
+Mr. Thomas breathed his last sigh, than another member of that
+community, Robert Thomson, Esq., followed the example set before
+him, represented himself as the oldest counsellor, and,
+consequently, entitled to the vacant government; in which office
+he continued until the arrival of the Right Honourable Lord
+Lavington, (who was formerly governor under the title of Sir
+Ralph Payne,) in 1801. During the three years Mr. Thomson was
+governor, he visited Antigua for about three days, in March,
+1800, so that the Antiguans had not much of their
+commander-in-chief’s society; but the council and assembly appear
+to have gone on very well without him, and framed some very good
+laws.</p>
+
+<p>The first year of Mr. Thomson’s government, Antigua had a visitor
+in the person of that indefatigable, but unfortunate
+<a id="p126" class="pagenumber" title="Mungo Park."></a>
+traveller,
+Mungo Park. Mr. Park had embarked on board the “Charlestown,” an
+American slaver, commanded by a Captain Harris, who was bound to
+Antigua with his live cargo. Upon nearing the island, the vessel
+struck upon a rock and narrowly escaped shipwreck; it was,
+however, at length got off, and brought into St. John’s harbour,
+where part of the cargo was sold. Mr. Park remained in Antigua
+until the arrival of the “Chesterfield” packet, in which he took
+passage to England. He speaks of Antigua as the loveliest of all
+lovely isles.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst Mr. Thomson was residing at St. Kitts as
+commander-in-chief, the Antiguans were busy in again raising
+funds to defray the expenses of the war, which had been, and
+still were, very great. It was also enacted, that if any free
+coloured, or white person, killed or wounded a slave belonging to
+themselves or any one else, such offenders were to be considered
+as murderers, and, consequently, as worthy of punishment as if
+their victim possessed the fairest skin. That the life of a negro
+was no longer to be considered “in law” as the “life of a dog,”
+but that he was at length to be looked upon as human.</p>
+
+<p>Antigua has always been liable to droughts, and, in such season,
+serious losses have occurred from the slaves dying for want of
+good water; to remedy this evil, as far as laid in their power, a
+tax was imposed upon all sugar plantations and houses in the
+island, which did not possess one or more cisterns.</p>
+
+<p>This year (1798) appears to have been the first time that slaves
+were really tried by jury, which was then made to consist of six
+reputable white inhabitants. If upon trial they were found worthy
+of death, the justices of the peace were to acquaint the
+governor, or whoever might at such time be in command of the
+island, with the sentence, in thirty-six hours after it was
+pronounced, under a penalty of 20<i class="currency">l.</i> The provost-marshal was
+also obliged to attend such trial, under a fine of 20<i class="currency">l.</i>; and
+for his trouble he was to receive 3<i class="currency">s.</i> for summoning each juror,
+and 33<i class="currency">s.</i> for his attendance.</p>
+
+<p>In the middle of this year, a general council and assembly
+<a id="p127" class="pagenumber" title="“Melioration Act.”"></a>
+was held at St. Kitts; and amongst other affairs discussed,
+it was determined to pass certain regulations which would
+tend to ameliorate the condition of slaves.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref52" href="#note52">52</a>]</sup> All owners of
+slaves were to furnish a certain quantity of provisions for
+each slave, under a penalty of 10<i class="currency">s.</i> per head weekly, which was
+to be distributed among the negroes at the discretion of the
+master, and old and infirm slaves were to receive their full
+allowance. Perhaps it may not be uninteresting to some of
+my readers to know what was the weekly allowance the law
+allowed for slaves, and consequently, will insert it:—​“Nine
+pints of corn or beans, or eight pints of peas, or wheat or
+rye flour, or Indian corn flour, or nine pints of oatmeal, or
+eight pints of Cassava flour or Farine, or eight pounds of
+biscuit, or twenty pounds of yams or potatoes, or sixteen
+pounds of eddoes or tanias, or thirty pounds of plaintains or
+bananas; and also one pound and a quarter of
+herrings, shads, mackarel, or other salted provision, or double
+the quantity of fresh fish or other fresh provisions,” all of
+which were to be of good quality. Owners of slaves were not
+allowed to pay them in money, unless there was absolute necessity
+for so doing, under a fine of 20<i class="currency">l.</i>; but when circumstances
+obliged them to recompense their slaves by cash, each negro was
+to receive the sum of 4<i class="currency">s.</i><sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref53" href="#note53">53</a>]</sup> weekly, and have two half days
+allowed them to come to market for the purpose of laying it out.
+The clothes allowed slaves for a year were, two jackets of
+woollen cloth, and two pair of trousers, made of Osnaburghs, for
+the men; and two woollen wrappers, and two Osnaburgh petticoats,
+for the women. If preferred by the slave, and agreed to by the
+master, a blanket and a cap were given in place of one suit of
+these clothes. When employed in agricultural work, half an hour
+was allowed for breakfast, and two hours for dinner, and they
+were not to be called to work before
+<a id="p128" class="pagenumber" title="“Marriage rites” of slaves."></a>
+five in the morning, nor
+after seven in the evening, unless in crop time, or from evident
+necessity! If any owner of slaves cruelly whipped or imprisoned a
+slave without sufficient support, they were liable to
+imprisonment, or to be fined at the discretion of the justices
+before whom the case was tried; and if they deemed it necessary
+for the further protection of the slave, they could cause such
+slave to be sold at public auction. If any owner of slaves used
+unnecessary severities towards them, or put upon them iron
+collars, chains, or weights, such owner was liable to a fine not
+exceeding 100<i class="currency">l.</i> When any slave was attacked by illness, medical
+assistance was to be procured without loss of time; and whatever
+nourishment the doctor ordered, such as wine, &amp;c., was to be
+given, under penalty of 50<i class="currency">l.</i> In cases of sudden death among the
+slaves, (when they had not been visited by a medical man
+forty-eight hours before,) notice was to be sent to the coroner
+or justice, when an inquest, of not less than three persons, was
+to be held on the body; should the owner neglect to do this,
+another fine of 100<i class="currency">l.</i> was imposed. With regard to the “marriage
+rites” of slaves, if their union can be called so, which was only
+nominal, owners were to encourage them to have only one husband
+or wife; and if faithful to each other, the woman was to receive
+four dollars for her first child, (provided it was alive six
+weeks after its birth,) and five dollars for each succeeding
+child under the same circumstances, and the slave and his wife to
+receive one dollar each at the end of the year. Should their
+master fail to do this, it was punished by a fine of 50<i class="currency">l.</i>;
+while the female who, in this state of conjugal fidelity, had
+borne six children, was exempt from any but light work upon her
+youngest child having obtained its seventh year.</p>
+
+<p>Religion appears also to have been encouraged among them; for no
+owner or manager of negroes was to restrain them from attending a
+place of worship on a Sunday, under a penalty of 5<i class="currency">l.</i>; and if
+any clergyman refused to baptize a slave which was supposed to be
+sufficiently informed, such clergyman was to forfeit 30<i class="currency">s.</i> To
+insure further their comforts,
+<a id="p129" class="pagenumber" title="Melancholy catastrophe."></a>
+it was ordered that no estate was
+to be without a commodious sick-house, furnished with proper
+conveniences for the use of the sick, and a sufficient number of
+attendants, under direction of a white person, to minister to
+their wants. In omitting to do this, the owner of such estate was
+liable to a penalty of 100<i class="currency">l.</i> for the first offence; and 20<i class="currency">s.</i>
+for the latter. They were also obliged to return an annual
+account of the births and deaths of their slaves, and how the
+sick were treated, under fine of 100<i class="currency">l.</i></p>
+
+<p>When a female slave proved <i lang="fr">enceinte</i> of her first child, her
+master was to provide her a house containing two rooms, and not
+compel her to go to the sick-house, under penalty of 20<i class="currency">l.</i>
+During pregnancy, they were not to be employed in the general
+work of the estate, but lighter occupation was to be found them;
+and no punishment was to be inflicted but imprisonment. So
+anxious did they appear for the comfort and well-being of their
+slaves, that it was further enacted, that sufficient clothing and
+provisions should be provided for them, even if the estate was in
+debt; and the costs for such articles was to be liquidated before
+any other claim.</p>
+
+<p>A melancholy catastrophe occurred during this year, at Antigua.
+Lord Camelford, then acting as commander of his majesty’s sloop
+“Favourite,” had a private quarrel with Lieutenant Peterson, of
+H. M. S. “Perdrix;” and some very unpleasant recriminations
+passed between the parties. Soon after this, Lord Camelford gave
+Lieutenant Peterson an order, which he unfortunately refused to
+obey, at the same time making use of some disaffected
+expressions; and the consequences were, that Lord Camelford shot
+him. His lordship was tried by a court-martial, and honourably
+acquitted; but he must have carried a blighted conscience with
+him, for—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Alas! they had been friends in youth;<br/>
+   But whispering tongues can poison truth;<br/>
+   And constancy lives in realms above;<br/>
+   And life is thorny; and youth is vain:<br/>
+   And to be wroth with one we love,<br/>
+   Doth work, like madness, in the brain.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p><a id="p130" class="pagenumber" title="Lord Camelford."></a>
+It was this Lord Camelford, who, when travelling through Italy
+some years after, pointed out a spot in one of the fair valleys
+of Savoy, as the place where he wished to be buried; and
+accordingly, his remains were deposited there, amid Nature’s
+loveliest works. The end of Lord Camelford was untimely; he fell
+in a duel, by the hands of Captain Best, a native of Barbados,
+whose ideas of honour obliged him to challenge a professed
+duellist, although he was himself a complete novice in such
+affairs. Captain Best’s first fire, however, took effect, and
+Lord Camelford fell, mortally wounded. The quarrel originated
+with an unfortunate woman, a second Millwood in character; and
+Lord Camelford, who was the aggressor, confessed to his second,
+before the duel took place, <i>that he knew he was in the wrong,
+but he would not retract words he had once uttered</i>. It is said
+that Captain Best, the successful duellist, was never a happy man
+afterwards. He met with heavy domestic afflictions; but in his
+last moments he said to a friend, that all his sorrows would have
+appeared trivial, could he have wiped from his recollection all
+traces of that unfortunate duel.</p>
+
+<p>In 1798 sheep-stealing was made a capital crime in Antigua. It
+had been considered so in England since 1740; and the Antiguans
+found it necessary to punish such offence as that statute
+directed. In 1799, an assize of bread was constituted, which was
+intended to prevent bakers from taking undue advantage of the
+public. Many other regulations were agreed to, upon this head,
+such as not allowing any one to sell bread without licence;
+obliging bakers to put a mark upon their bread, and if changing
+such mark without further licence, to forfeit 50<i class="currency">l.</i> If such
+bread was imperfectly baked, to be fined as if deficient in
+weight; if damaged flour was used, the bread to be destroyed by a
+magistrate, and a fine imposed upon the baker of 20<i class="currency">l.</i>; and if a
+diseased person was employed in the bakehouse, another 20<i class="currency">l.</i>
+penalty was enjoined.</p>
+
+<p>In 1800, a law was passed to ascertain the number of
+<a id="p131" class="pagenumber" title="Lord Lavington."></a>
+negro slaves
+in Antigua; and the total number of births and deaths upon an
+average, for the last three years; when, upon taking the census,
+the number of negroes was found to be 37,000. About this year the
+legislature thought proper to increase the salary of the colonial
+agent to 200<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling, considering that the sum appointed for
+his recompence in 1698, namely 100<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling, was an
+insufficient compensation for the trouble. The agent at this
+period was the late Anthony Brown, Esq. Several serious accidents
+having occurred during the last few years from the custom of
+throwing about squibs, or other fireworks, it was determined that
+should any one in future, let their sex or quality be what it
+might, offend in this respect, such offender should be fined
+40<i class="currency">s.</i> If any slave made or sold fireworks, they were to suffer
+such correction as the magistrate before whom the complaint was
+brought should deem proper.</p>
+
+<p>Thus ended Mr. Thomson’s public career, after having held the
+government for nearly four years. As before remarked of Mr.
+Thomas, very little can be said about him; for he made St. Kitts
+head-quarters, in opposition to the orders which had been sent
+out by his majesty, to constitute Antigua the residence of the
+commander-in-chief; and did not repair to this island to take
+upon him the administration of the government.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note51" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref51">51</a>] Perhaps it may be scarcely necessary to mention that St
+Christopher’s is as frequently called St Kitt’s as its real name.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note52" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref52">52</a>] This has been known throughout the West Indies as the famous
+“Melioration Act.” This appears to have been the last time the
+general council and assembly for the Leeward Islands met.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note53" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref53">53</a>] A shilling currency is equal to sixpence sterling. It must
+be borne in mind, that all these specified sums are Antigua
+currency.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch12" class="chapter">
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governors: The Right Honourable Ralph Lord
+Lavington​—​William Woodley​—​James Tyson​—​John
+Julius​—​Hugh Elliot​—​Sir James Leith​—​Henry
+Rawlins​—​S. Rawlins​—​Major-General Ramsay.</p>
+
+<p class="init">In 1801, the Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington was
+re-appointed to the office of commander-in-chief, to the
+gratification of the Antiguans, who, as before remarked, were so
+pleased with his government in 1771, when he was Sir Ralph
+<a id="p132" class="pagenumber" title="Duty on sugar."></a>
+Payne.
+Lord Lavington came to Antigua about the latter end of January;
+and soon after his arrival, it was agreed for the country to
+allow him an annuity of 1000<i class="currency">l.</i> to be paid quarterly out of the
+public treasury of the island; and a further sum of 300<i class="currency">l.</i> to be
+paid in like manner until a government house was built for his
+reception. And that his excellency might better support his
+dignity, another annuity of 700<i class="currency">l.</i> was granted him, as long as
+he remained within his government. About this time the practice
+of slaves stealing sugar and retailing it in the markets, or
+selling it to shopkeepers privately, was so general, that it was
+found necessary to lay a duty upon that article when retailed. If
+any person sold less than 100lbs. of sugar without having a
+licence for six months, and the further entering into a bond with
+one security for the sum of 50<i class="currency">l.</i>, such person was liable to a
+penalty of 50<i class="currency">l.</i> for the first offence.</p>
+
+<p>It was this year that slaves were condemned to work in the
+streets, for the first time, as a punishment for offences. If any
+slave was committed to jail for refusing to give their owner’s
+name, they were put to such work until claimed; when convicted of
+a crime less than felony, they were to be kept to hard labour in
+the streets for the space of three months; and if they had been
+sentenced to death, and afterwards pardoned by the governor, his
+excellency could annex to such pardon an order for the guilty
+slaves to work in the streets for any time he thought proper.
+These culprits were made to work in a gang, chained two and two
+together, and, at the close of the day, when their toil was over,
+they were conveyed to the common jail, and closely confined until
+the next morning, when their labours were resumed. When a slave
+was pardoned on condition of working in the street-gang for a
+certain time, their owners were paid a shilling a-day until the
+release of their slave.</p>
+
+<p>Doubts having arisen with regard to the validity of certain laws
+passed during the administration of A. Esdail, J. S. Thomas, and
+R. Thomson, on account of their not repairing
+<a id="p133" class="pagenumber" title="Powder-tax."></a>
+to Antigua to take
+upon them the administration of the government, it was found
+necessary to obviate all doubts by framing another law, to
+confirm them, as also all civil and military commissions which
+had been granted during their government.</p>
+
+<p>The treaty of peace which had been signed between France and
+England in 1801 was not of long continuance. During the latter
+end of 1802, the French government began to act in a very
+menacing manner towards England; and from the military and naval
+preparations which were being carried on by Bonaparte, it was
+evident that war was intended. On the 13th of May, 1803, affairs
+were brought to a crisis, by Lord Whitworth, the ambassador at
+the French court, quitting Paris, by order of his sovereign; and
+immediately after, the French ambassador left England, and war
+was declared between the two powers. Notice to this effect was
+directly forwarded to Lord Lavington, by Lord Hobart, (late
+governor of Madras,) who at that period was one of the principal
+secretaries of state; and upon the arrival of the despatches,
+Antigua was put into a state of defence. Not wishing to declare
+martial law in force through the whole island, yet at the same
+time seeing the necessity of part of the militia being on
+service, it was thought proper to ordain, that in future it would
+be lawful for the governor, with the concurrence of the council
+and assembly, to call out a portion of it for the purpose of
+keeping guard, &amp;c., and, by proclamation, requiring the whole
+body to hold themselves in readiness. It was also deemed
+necessary to revive an act, (which had expired upon the treaty of
+peace being signed at Amiens, March 25th, 1802, between England,
+France, Spain, and Holland,) laying a powder-tax upon all vessels
+trading to and from Antigua. Accordingly, all commanders of ships
+were obliged to pay into the hands of the receiver appointed one
+full pound of powder per ton, to the size of the vessel; half in
+cannon, and the other half in pistol powder.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p134" class="pagenumber" title="Lord Nelson."></a>
+In 1804, Mr. Wilberforce’s annual motion for the abolition of the
+slave trade, which was supported by Mr. Pitt and Mr. Fox, was
+carried by 124 to 46 voices; and a bill presented, limiting the
+period when ships would be allowed to clear out from any English
+port for this inhuman traffic, to October 1st of the same year.
+This bill passed the third reading in the house of commons, but
+was rejected in the house of lords on account of the lateness of
+the session. In Antigua the negro population had decreased 1000
+since the last year.</p>
+
+<p>In the early part of the following year, a French squadron,
+consisting of six sail of the line, and two frigates, contrived
+to elude the vigilance of Lord Nelson’s blockading squadron; and
+leaving Rochefort (France), where they had been hemmed in for the
+last two years, proceeded to the West Indies. After having made a
+descent upon Dominica, and levied a heavy contribution upon the
+inhabitants, obliging the town of Roseau to surrender upon
+certain terms, the squadron proceeded for Antigua. Great were the
+fears of the inhabitants when this intelligence reached them; the
+court of king’s bench and grand sessions were prevented from
+sitting their usual days on account of the alarm; the militia
+were called out, and the whole island put into a posture of
+defence. The French squadron, however, passed Antigua, and landed
+upon Nevis, and after laying the inhabitants under contribution,
+proceeded to St. Kitts, and lightened a little the pockets of the
+Kittifonians. The alarm had scarcely subsided, when news of the
+arrival of the Toulon fleet, under Admiral Villeneuve, in these
+seas, was received. Again Antigua prepared for war; but the
+ferment did not last long; Lord Nelson quickly followed the
+enemy; and upon his arrival at Barbados on the 4th of June, heard
+that Admiral Villeneuve had only reached Martinique. The name of
+this gallant officer so intimidated the French admiral, that he
+immediately quitted the West Indies, and was followed by Lord
+Nelson, who was in hopes of overtaking him, and chastising the
+French for their audacity.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p135" class="pagenumber" title="Captain Southey."></a>
+The departure of these squadrons gave the Antiguans a little
+rest, and enabled them to settle their island business. As peace
+was not likely to ensue at present, and knowing how liable they
+were to alarms like the foregoing, the governor, council, and
+assembly ordained, that in future whenever the court of king’s
+bench and grand sessions were prevented from sitting on account
+of the fear of an invasion, it would be lawful for any three or
+more justices, provided three out of the number should be of the
+quorum, to meet at the court-house, and by proclamation, adjourn
+the sessions to a period not less than ten, or longer than
+fourteen days. An act also passed about this time, containing
+sixty-eight clauses, respecting the better regulating the militia
+in these times of danger.</p>
+
+<p>By order of his gracious majesty George III., Lord Lavington
+invested Sir Samuel Hood with the order of the Bath, as some
+reward for his gallant achievements in these seas. Upon this
+occasion his excellency Lord Lavington made a very powerful
+speech, which has been justly praised, but which is too long for
+insertion here. Antigua was visited (1805) by the very clever
+author of “The Chronological History of the West Indies,” Capt.
+Southey. This gentleman mentions seeing a female slave, with an
+iron rivetted round her ankle, which had two bars, sharp at each
+point, crossing each other, and projecting about a foot in four
+directions. Her owner informed Capt. Southey it was to keep her
+at home, which was impossible to do without it. This historian
+alludes to the melioration act, which passed in 1798, prohibiting
+such punishments except, (and, as Mr. Southey justly remarks, the
+exception neutralizes the prohibition) <i>such as are absolutely
+necessary</i>.</p>
+
+<p>On the 13th of November, died Mr. John Baxter, the head of the
+methodists in Antigua. Mr. Baxter, who was by trade a shipwright,
+had been sent out from Chatham dock-yard to English Harbour in
+1778, and upon his arrival exerted himself in gathering together
+the little society of
+<a id="p136" class="pagenumber" title="Death of Lord Lavington."></a>
+methodists which Mr. Gilbert had established, but which
+since his death had been scattered about for want of a pastor.
+A further notice of Mr. Baxter and his praiseworthy exertions
+will be found in another part of the work.</p>
+
+<p>In 1806, the abolition of the slave trade was again brought
+before the English parliament, and considerable progress was made
+towards its accomplishment. A bill was also passed prohibiting
+the exportation of slaves from the British colonies after the
+first of January in the succeeding year. On the 22nd of January,
+1807, the total abolition of the slave trade was accomplished,
+and the bill ordained that no slaves should be landed in any of
+the British colonies after the 1st of March, 1808.</p>
+
+<p>Thus this great work was ended, which had been annually discussed
+since 1787; and Mr. Wilberforce reaped the reward of his labours.
+For two hundred and forty-four years had England allowed this
+blood-stained traffic, and shut her ears to the cries of the
+distressed Africans; but a more glorious era had dawned—liberty
+was exerting her power, and paving the way to the future freedom
+of that despised race.</p>
+
+<p>About the middle of the year died the Right Honourable Ralph Lord
+Lavington, Baron of Lavington, one of his majesty’s most
+honourable privy council, knight companion of the most honourable
+order of the Bath, captain-general and commander-in-chief of his
+majesty’s Leeward Caribbee Islands. His lordship, it is said, was
+a very hospitable man, and very fond of splendour; his Christmas
+balls and routs were upon the highest scale of magnificence; but
+he was a great stickler for etiquette, and a firm upholder of
+difference of rank and <i>colour</i>. It is asserted, that he would
+not upon any occasion, receive a letter or parcel from the
+fingers of a black or coloured man, and in order to guard against
+such <i>horrible defilement</i>, he had a golden instrument wrought
+something like a pair of sugar tongs, with which he was
+accustomed to hold the presented article. In his household
+<a id="p137" class="pagenumber" title="Lord Lavington’s tomb."></a>
+he was
+also very particular. He had, of course, an immense number of
+attendants, but he would not allow any of the black servants to
+wear shoes or stockings, and consequently his ebon footmen used
+to stand behind his carriage as it rolled along, with their naked
+legs shining like pillars of jet, from the butter with which, in
+accordance to his excellency’s orders, they daily rubbed them.
+Lord Lavington entered upon his government the latter end of
+January, 1801, and resided at Antigua, with the exception of a
+short visit to Monserrat, until the day of his death. He died
+regretted by the “magnates of the land:” his tomb may still be
+seen at an estate called Carlisle’s,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref54" href="#note54">54</a>]</sup> but the garden in which
+it stands is overgrown with weeds, and the surrounding walls are
+falling to ruins. Were I the possessor of Carlisle’s, this should
+not be the case. If only in respect to the old and noble family
+of the Paynes, Lord Ralph’s last resting-place should not be thus
+dishonoured; a few flowers should shed their sweets around; a few
+trees should shade that old grey tomb. There is a very handsome
+monument erected to his memory in the church of St. John’s, which
+will be further mentioned in the description of that edifice.
+Lord Lavington’s family, on his father’s side, had long been
+resident in St. Christopher’s, where they were of great eminence
+and distinction, having filled some of the highest offices in
+that island. They originally came from Lavington, in the county
+of Wilts, from whence the title, and are said to have been of
+great antiquity, tracing their descent from Ralph de Payne, a
+follower of William the Conqueror, who took his name it is said
+from Payne in Normandy. His lordship’s intimate connexion with
+Antigua is derived from his mother, Alice Carlisle, of a family
+originally from the neighbourhood of Bridgewater, in
+Somersetshire, and whose lineage will be found in the Appendix,
+where it is given from the same source I have derived other
+genealogical information.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p138" class="pagenumber" title="Witchcraft."></a>
+After the decease of Lord Lavington, William Woodley, Esq., again
+resumed the reins of government; but he did not repair to
+Antigua, being in a delicate state of health. Sir Alexander
+Cochrane, with a squadron under his command, visited the island
+during this year on his return from taking the Danish West India
+colonies of St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix.</p>
+
+<p>In the month of March, 1809, Wm. Woodley, Esq., the then acting
+commander-in-chief, departed this life; and James Tyson, Esq.,
+represented himself as the first counsellor, and accordingly took
+upon himself the administration of the government, without
+repairing first to Antigua, as he ought to have done.</p>
+
+<p>In 1809, it was found necessary to award certain punishments to
+dealers in witchcraft. Obeah,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref55" href="#note55">55</a>]</sup> as it was termed, raged to a
+great extent among the negro population in these islands, and led
+many of them into the deepest crimes. To strike a blow at this
+infatuation, it was ordained, that if any negro pretended they
+had communication with any evil spirit by whose aid they could
+cause death, &amp;c., such slave upon conviction was to suffer
+capital punishment; and if any slave prepared a mixture which was
+intended to cause death, although the poison did not take effect,
+such slave and their accessories were also liable to the same
+punishment.</p>
+
+<p>In the latter part of 1809, John Julius, Esq., another resident
+of St. Kitts, elected himself to the office of
+commander-in-chief, but neither did he repair to Antigua to take
+upon him the administration.</p>
+
+<p>About this period, the Antiguans, out of respect to their late
+respected governor Lord Lavington, agreed to allow his widow,
+Lady Frances Lavington, an annuity of 300<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling during her
+life, which was to be paid out of the treasury.</p>
+
+<p>The following year, 1810, Hugh Elliot, Esq., was appointed to the
+government of Antigua and the rest of the
+<a id="p139" class="pagenumber" title="“Melioration Act.”"></a>
+Leeward Islands. During his administration, it was again
+ordained, that no medical man should practice in this island
+without a licence; and no licence should be granted unless
+such persons as applied produced a certificate from the
+Surgeons’ Hall, or from one of the universities in Great
+Britain, shewing his admittance in them. One reason for
+this regulation was, on account of the numerous cases of
+poisoning among the negroes; and it was conjectured that
+they procured deleterious drugs from some of the low venders of
+medicines, who, like Shakspeare’s half-starved apothecary—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“If a man did need a poison<br/>
+    ——— would sell it him.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref56" href="#note56">56</a>]</sup></p></blockquote>
+
+<p>This wise regulation appears to have emanated from the governor,
+who saw the absurdity, if not <i>guilt</i>, of allowing the public to
+place their lives in the hands of the low “self-educated
+physicians,” of whom, in those days, the medical body was pretty
+generally composed.</p>
+
+<p>Nor was this the only salutary step proposed by his excellency
+during his administration. Although, as before mentioned, the
+general assembly of the Leeward Islands had, during a meeting at
+St. Kitts, in 1798, passed the “Melioration Act,” with the hopes
+of restricting the owners of slaves from excessive cruelty in
+their dealings with their negroes. No limits had been put to the
+<i>number of lashes</i> to be given at <i>one time</i>, and for <i>one
+offence</i>, and accordingly some maliciously disposed persons had
+evaded the law, and treated their slaves in a most barbarous
+manner. The governor had full proof of this soon after his
+arrival, in the case of a member of the council, at Nevis, who,
+setting aside the laws of humanity, had caused “300 lashes of
+cart-whip, or nearly that number, to be inflicted in the public
+market-place (without the sentence of a magistrate) upon a
+<a id="p140" class="pagenumber" title="Cruelty to slaves."></a>
+considerable proportion of a gang of thirty-two negroes, who were
+all, more or less, severely punished, without having been
+convicted of any act, which, by the most forced construction,
+could be deemed mutinous, or dangerous to the community at
+large.”</p>
+
+<p>In the governor’s communications with the Earl of Liverpool, in
+1810, upon this subject, he alludes to the “Melioration Act,” and
+deplores that the punishment of whipping was not restricted to 39
+lashes, as in the 14th clause of the “Consolidated Act,” passed
+in Jamaica, in 1792; and further proposes, that the clause in
+question should be <i>immediately annexed</i> to the “Leeward Island
+Melioration Act.”</p>
+
+<p>That such was not done upon the passing of the act, cannot be
+laid to the charge of the representatives of Antigua, who fully
+coincided with Mr. Burke, the attorney-general of the Leeward
+Islands, in his proposal that such measure should be adopted, but
+which proposition was not carried into effect by the general
+council and assembly.</p>
+
+<p>In 1812, this suggestion of his excellency’s, limiting the number
+of lashes to be given in the chastisement of a slave, was fully
+carried into effect. The Antiguans had had another example
+brought before them, where a Tortolian slave-master had murdered
+several of his negroes, in a most shocking manner, and cruelly
+ill-treated others; and the Antiguans appear to have been wishful
+of exterminating that plague-spot cruelty from their little
+island! For this reason, they forbad owners, jailors, or any
+other person who had the superintendence of such inflictions, to
+give their slaves <i>more than 39 lashes</i> at one time, and for one
+offence; nor were they to repeat the punishment within 14 days,
+under a penalty of 100<i class="currency">l.</i> No slave was to receive more than six
+lashes at one time, for one offence, unless the owner’s attorney,
+manager, or overseer, should be present It is strange, very
+strange, that so many dreadful deeds should have been practised
+in Antigua, and still so many laws been
+<a id="p141" class="pagenumber" title="Introduction of a police force."></a>
+framed for the protection
+of the slaves, even long before the period I am now writing
+about. What answer are we to give to this enigma? Alas! alas! in
+many instances, we must again exclaim with Captain Southey, “<i>The
+exceptions neutralize the prohibitions</i>.”</p>
+
+<p>In 1813, his excellency Hugh Elliot left the government, and John
+Julius again entered upon the administration, but he did not
+reside at or visit Antigua. This was the first year a police
+force was established; it consisted of five reputable white men,
+who had been recommended to the commander-in-chief, (or in his
+absence, the president of the island,) assisted by about as many
+discreet black or coloured persons. One of these white men was to
+be called “Clerk of the Police,” and it was his duty to attend
+the sittings of magistrates on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays,
+and summon accused parties and witnesses. These police-officers
+had several duties to perform​—​such as taking up slaves who were
+found selling any article in the streets, on the working days,
+unless they could produce a pass from their owners; to forbid
+them selling fresh butter or milk, unless in possession of like
+certificate; and to turn out of the town, upon the ringing of the
+church bell at half-past nine at night, all country negroes, and
+oblige such as resided in the capital to retire to their houses.</p>
+
+<p>In the middle of June, 1814, Sir James Leith arrived in Antigua,
+to fulfil the office of captain-general and governor-in-chief
+over the Leeward Caribbee Islands, but he did not remain here
+much longer than a year, for, having suffered from indisposition,
+he obtained leave of absence, and embarked for England, where he
+shortly afterwards died. Nothing of much importance occurred
+during the period Sir James resided in the government. Admiral
+Cochrane was still stationed in these seas, and kept so strict a
+watch upon the enemy, that they were unable to distress this or
+the other islands.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p142" class="pagenumber" title="Yellow fever."></a>
+After the departure of Sir James Leith, another resident of St.
+Kitts, Henry Rawlins, Esq., acted as commander-in-chief. During
+his administration, an act was passed, founded upon that
+celebrated one of Lord Ellenborough’s against cutting and
+maiming, punishing with death those who discharged fire-arms with
+intent to injure any one, setting fire to cane pieces or
+buildings, or perpetrating any other malicious deed.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1814 was signed the treaty of peace between France
+and England, and once more Antigua was freed from her alarms and
+watchings. Henry Rawlins dying, Stedmans Rawlins exercised the
+government in 1816. Neither of these gentlemen, however, resided
+in this island. The yellow fever again made its appearance, and
+carried off a great many persons, particularly among the
+soldiers.</p>
+
+<p>In 1816, the general government of the Leeward Caribbee Islands
+was discontinued, and the Prince Regent, during the unfortunate
+indisposition of his father, appointed Major-General George W.
+Ramsay, governor-in-chief of Antigua, Monserrat, and Barbuda, who
+arrived in Antigua in the middle of the year. Soon after General
+Ramsay’s arrival, it was agreed by the council and assembly to
+allow his excellency 5000<i class="currency">l.</i> currency per annum, which was to be
+paid quarterly, from taxes and fines for the deficiency of white
+servants, or duties on retailers of rum; and should these be
+insufficient, from other moneys in the public treasury. It was
+also enacted, that in the event of the death or absence of the
+commander-in-chief, the treasurer should pay to such person, to
+whom the government devolved, the sum of 3000<i class="currency">l.</i> currency per
+annum, as long as he remained in command, the better for him to
+support his dignity.</p>
+
+<p>About this period, it was currently reported in the mother
+country, that the West Indian proprietors were in the habit of
+holding <i>free</i> black and coloured persons in slavery; and that,
+from the facilities afforded them by a state of peace,
+<a id="p143" class="pagenumber" title="Registry of slaves."></a>
+they also
+evaded the slave trade abolition laws, by smuggling negroes into
+these islands. To confute these reports, the Antiguans thought it
+best to introduce a registry of slaves, to be filled up at
+certain periods, with the name, sex, colour, and age of every
+slave, and how they were become possessed of. This registry was
+to be sworn to before a justice of the peace, by the proprietor
+or his representative; and if any person omitted making such
+return of their slaves, they were liable to a penalty of 200<i class="currency">l.</i>
+for every slave.</p>
+
+<p>During the temporary absence of his excellency Major-General
+Ramsay, T. Norbury Kerby, Esq., the treasurer of the island, held
+the government. It was thought proper, about this period, (1817,)
+to restrict the existing privilege of exporting slaves, and make
+it punishable to sell or send a slave off the island. If any
+slaves were thus exported, they became forfeited to the king, as
+well as the vessel which was to convey them away, and any
+officers of H.M. Customs could seize such ship and slaves. This
+did not, however, prevent any owner from carrying their domestic
+slaves off the island with them, or from hiring or employing
+their slaves as mariners; but they were to have their name and
+description indorsed on the clearance of the vessel which carried
+them away, under penalty of 100<i class="currency">l.</i>, to both owner of slave and
+the master of the vessel.</p>
+
+<p>In concluding this chapter, I must be allowed to remark, that,
+let Antigua be what she may, since she has seen her error, she
+has never withheld manumission from her slaves; and, as we have
+just noticed, was the first among the West Indian Islands which
+endeavoured to spare that class the further pang of
+transportation.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note54" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref54">54</a>] This estate belonged to his excellency Lord Lavington, and
+until within this last few years went by his name.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note55" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref55">55</a>] For further particulars respecting Obeah, see <a href="#ch23">Chapter XXXII</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note56" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref56">56</a>] In 1676, a similar law had been brought into force, but from
+some cause had fallen into disuse. The penalty for practising
+without a licence was, at that period, confined to a forfeit of
+5000lbs. of sugar.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch13" class="chapter">
+
+
+
+<h2><a id="p144" class="pagenumber" title="Appointment of a bishop."></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Governors: Sir Benjamin D’Urban​—​Sir Patrick
+Ross​—​Sir Evan Murray McGregor​—​Mr. Light​—​Sir
+W. G. MacBean Colebrooke​—​Major McPhail​—​Sir Charles
+Augustus Fitzroy.</p>
+
+<p class="init">After the death of Major General Ramsay in 1819, his gracious
+majesty George III. appointed Sir Benjamin D’Urban to the vacant
+government, who arrived at Antigua in the following year, 1820.</p>
+
+<p>During the administration of Sir Benjamin D’Urban, the census was
+taken, when the population was found to consist of 37,031
+souls​—​viz., 4066 coloured, 1980 whites, and 30,985 negroes.</p>
+
+<p>A very efficient militia was also raised, consisting of 15
+staff-officers, 87 commissioned-officers, and 843
+noncommissioned-officers and privates; making in all, 945.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1825 is celebrated for the arrival of the first English
+bishop in the West Indies. During the preceding year, George the
+Fourth appointed, by letters patent, (bearing date 24th July,
+1824,) two bishops for the cure of souls in the British West
+Indies; the one to be styled the Bishop of Jamaica, &amp;c., the
+other, the Bishop of Barbados and the Leeward Islands, having in
+his diocese the islands of Barbados, St. Vincent’s, St. Lucia,
+Grenada, Dominica, Antigua, Monserrat, Nevis, St. Christopher’s,
+and the Virgin Isles​—​Trinidad and Tobago, with their respective
+dependances.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the arrival of Bishop Coleridge in the West Indies, he
+remained for a short time at Barbados (as head-quarters), and
+then proceeded upon a tour to the respective islands which
+constituted his see. Prior to the appointment of a bishop in
+these colonies, the clergy officiating there were considered
+under the superintendence of the bishop of London; and that
+prelate, as well as the archbishops of
+<a id="p145" class="pagenumber" title="Immorality of the clergy."></a>
+Canterbury and York, could
+ordain “any person who should, on examination, be deemed
+qualified for the cure of souls, or officiating in any spiritual
+capacity in his majesty’s colonies, or foreign possessions,
+although such persons might not have possessed the title required
+by the canons of the church of England, of such as are to be made
+ministers.</p>
+
+<p>Alas! how many were ordained, and deemed qualified for the “cure
+of souls,” in the West Indies, who, by precept and practice, led
+their unhappy parishioners further into the power of the <i>enemy
+of souls</i>! who, whatever they might preach, <i>lived</i> in open
+violation of the laws of God and man; and who, after indulging in
+the grossest sensuality throughout the six days of the week,
+presumed to enter into the pulpit on a Sunday, and, <i lang="la">pro
+tempore</i>, descant most learnedly and profoundly upon the
+<i>beauties of morality</i>! But enough of such disgracers of the
+sacred office​—​they have passed away to render an account of their
+stewardship before a holy and a righteous bar; nor should I have
+alluded to them, did I not wish to impress upon the minds of the
+Antiguans the blessing they enjoy in possessing a more
+enlightened and evangelical race of clergymen.</p>
+
+<p>To return to the bishop: a sum of 4200<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling per annum is
+placed at his disposal, to be distributed among the several
+ministers, catechists, and schoolmasters, as salaries, &amp;c., with
+the proviso, that no minister shall receive more than 300<i class="currency">l.</i>
+sterling per annum, from such fund.</p>
+
+<p>By his patent the bishop ordains, confirms, and performs all
+those several functions peculiar to his office, as one of the
+successors of the apostles. The bishop is made a body corporate;
+has a common seal granted him, and is considered subordinate to
+the archbishop of Canterbury. An ecclesiastical jurisdiction over
+the clergy is also conferred upon him, and on the commissaries by
+him appointed; but such jurisdiction does not interfere with the
+provision of any local law which has received the royal
+confirmation. “In case of the absence of the bishop and his
+commissaries,
+<a id="p146" class="pagenumber" title="“Dandy fever.”"></a>
+the governor of Barbados is authorized to appoint
+any two clergymen to institute benefices, and to license
+curates.”</p>
+
+<p>Sir Benj. D’Urban being recalled, Sir Patrick Ross was appointed
+governor and commander-in-chief. His excellency arrived at
+Antigua in the year 1826, and during his stay there, ingratiated
+himself with the <i>heads of the island</i>, by his courteous manners,
+and his humane desire to spare their feelings upon the
+all-engrossing topic of approaching emancipation.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1828 will be remembered by many Antiguans, as that in
+which the “Dandy Fever” prevailed. This most distressing and
+painful illness took its name from the strange gestures into
+which its excruciating agonies threw the unfortunate sufferers,
+and who, in their awkward attempts at walking, were likened by
+some facetious spirit to that nondescript race of men​—​the
+dandies!</p>
+
+<p>The year 1831 was the scene of an insurrection among the negroes.
+The cause of this disaffection among the black population was,
+the suppression of the Sunday markets, and the omission, on the
+part of the authorities of the island, to provide a day instead
+of the Sabbath, in which the negroes might bring the produce of
+their gardens and poultry yards into the capital to sell.</p>
+
+<p>The Sunday markets were indeed a nuisance most properly got rid
+of, for they engendered all kinds of dissipation among the lower
+classes on the Lord’s day; yet is it to be wondered at that the
+negroes felt aggrieved in having the only day they could call
+their own taken from them, as it were, and no other portion of
+the week allotted to them?</p>
+
+<p>From muttered threats, and sullen looks of discontent, the
+negroes proceeded to acts of open violence. Incendiarism raged to
+a great extent; no sooner was one fire extinguished, than another
+was discovered in an opposite quarter. Martial law was in force;
+and the officers of the militia had then ample opportunities of
+shewing forth their valour, and winning laurels in the field of
+Mars.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p147" class="pagenumber" title="Sir E. M. McGregor."></a>
+Great were the marchings and counter-marchings upon this
+occasion; mysterious the signs and counter-signs! Then there was
+such buckling on of spurs, and bracing on of swords​—​such displays
+of epaulets and aiguillettes, as would have surprised any one not
+accustomed to West Indian militia “turn outs.” Generals galloped
+here, and colonels there; at one moment a party of gallant
+dragoons, armed to the teeth, and mounted​—​some on gaunt steeds of
+sixteen hands high, and others on diminutive ponies, dashed along
+the streets; at another, the governor and his brilliant staff
+might be seen hurrying forward as fresh intelligence arrived of
+other fires breaking out.</p>
+
+<p>At length something like order was restored. Many of the negroes
+were apprehended; and the supposed ringleader, after being
+brought to trial, was condemned and executed. He met his fate
+with resignation, but protested to the very last that he died
+innocent of the offence (arson) imputed to him; the other
+culprits were punished by public floggings and imprisonments.
+Thus was the insurrection of 1831 quelled, and peace once more
+established. Saturday was appointed for the principal market day;
+and the planters agreed to allow their people to visit the
+capital every, or every other week, to vend their little wares.</p>
+
+<p>In 1832, Sir Evan Murray McGregor was appointed to the government
+of the Leeward Islands, including Dominica. Sir Evan was a member
+of the McGregor family, so celebrated in Scottish history, and of
+which the redoubted Rob Roy was a chieftain. His excellency was a
+man of the strictest political principles, and of a most
+enlightened mind. He saw and felt the degradations laid upon the
+coloured people; and as far as lay in his power he mitigated
+their sufferings. It was not until his administration that
+coloured persons served as jurors.</p>
+
+<p>His kind feelings towards this portion of his majesty’s subjects
+were not altogether agreeable to many of the self-constituted
+“exclusives;” and various were the schemes
+<a id="p148" class="pagenumber" title="Earthquakes at Antigua."></a>
+and projects to turn him from his purpose of rewarding
+the merits of the coloured class. But Sir Evan possessed
+an inflexible spirit, and neither frowns nor caresses could
+prevent him from dispensing justice to all, be their colour
+what it might.</p>
+
+<p>Acting upon these principles, his excellency, in 1834, appointed
+Mr. Loving, a gentleman of colour, chief of police, with a salary
+of 600<i class="currency">l.</i> per annum. This dreadful innovation of the governor’s
+met with the strongest resistance from those persons who were led
+to look upon a man’s merit as inseparably connected with his
+white descent; and no efforts were spared upon their part to
+endeavour to persuade Sir Evan to rescind the appointment. This,
+however, was not to be effected, and many a breast burned with
+secret indignation against the man who had dared to throw down
+the partition wall between the <i>immaculate</i> whites, and a
+descendant of Afric’s despised children!</p>
+
+<p>But it was not colour alone that formed the grand objection to
+this gentleman’s appointment. Mr. Loving had been for some time
+the editor of a paper, and in such capacity had raised his voice
+against the system of slavery, and advocated in a firm, but mild
+spirit, the cause of emancipation, in a country where nearly all
+its principal inhabitants were slave-holders. Upon the strength
+of the old adage, “What can’t be <i>cured</i> must be <i>endured</i>,” Mr.
+Loving was allowed to remain quietly in his situation, until time
+brought about mighty changes, and made the Antiguan
+slave-holders, like himself, friends to freedom.</p>
+
+<p>The following year, 1833, was noted for the severe shocks of
+earthquake felt at Antigua, as well as at most of the other
+islands throughout the chain. These earthquakes were followed by
+a season of dry weather, which crushed the hopes of the planters,
+and rendered in great measure the fertile little island a barren
+waste.</p>
+
+<p>1834 is celebrated throughout the British West Indies as the year
+of the abolition of slavery, and more particularly
+<a id="p149" class="pagenumber" title="A violent hurricane."></a>
+by the
+Antiguans, who, laying aside all claims to apprenticeship, gave
+their negroes <i>immediate freedom</i>. For this consummation had many
+worthy men toiled and sighed​—​for this had Sharpe, Clayton,
+Wilberforce, Buxton, Lushington, and many others, written and
+spoken, until wearied nature had often sunk, almost exhausted​—​and
+now the bright day of liberty had arrived, and the great and
+glorious triumph, which for so many years had been as a beacon
+before the minds of philanthropic men, had been achieved; but
+alas! of those who would have sung jubilee on the fulfilment of
+their wishes, many had yielded up their noble spirits, and passed
+to the silent tomb.</p>
+
+<p>The year following emancipation (1835) was the scene of a violent
+hurricane, which raging with extreme fury throughout the greater
+part of the night, caused great loss to many of the inhabitants.
+Soon after the hurricane, the yellow fever broke out with great
+malignancy, and hurried many a young and gifted one from the
+family circle.</p>
+
+<p>During the period Sir Evan McGregor administered the government,
+he endeavoured to restore the custom of holding a general council
+and assembly, to convene at certain times, at one of the several
+islands within his jurisdiction; and also to make the island of
+Dominica head-quarters. His excellency’s view and wishes upon
+this subject were, however, overruled by the home government;
+although it was permitted him to make Dominica his place of
+residence should such be his desire. Soon after his removal to
+the latter colony, he received the higher appointment of Governor
+of Barbados, to which seat of government he repaired, leaving
+Antigua to a kind of interregnum, which was filled up by the
+president of the island.</p>
+
+<p>During his excellency’s administration, he also recommended the
+legislature to enact a law to govern elections​—​a deficiency in
+the laws of Antigua complained of by a large portion of the
+inhabitants; the qualifications of voters being entirely governed
+by resolutions of the house, as best
+<a id="p150" class="pagenumber" title="Governor Sir W. Colebrooke."></a>
+suited the purposes of its
+members. In contested elections, freeholders, it is said, were
+frequently left to unconstitutional resolutions of the assembly,
+who, paying no attention to former precedents, adopted such
+measures as would best secure the interests of their own
+party.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref57" href="#note57">57</a>]</sup> There are, however, laws for the protective privileges
+of freeholders for other distinctive purposes, such as exemptions
+from arrest, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>In 1836, Henry Light, Esq., arrived at Antigua to play his part
+upon the stage of colonial life as lieutenant-governor. His lofty
+pretensions to liberal principles, and his condescending
+greatness to the <i>mixed blood</i> in admitting a few members of that
+class to “his table,” evinces much insincerity, for in his
+private despatches to Lord Glenelg, he reprobates, with but one
+or two exceptions, that body of persons, in terms as ill-founded
+as they are illiberal. Nothing of importance occurred during Mr.
+Light’s sojourn at Antigua; he has subsequently been appointed to
+the government of British Guiana, where he has had an opportunity
+of shewing forth his philanthropy, as well as of acquiring fame.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1837 marked the appointment of Sir William MacBean
+George Colebrooke to the office of governor-in-chief of the
+Leeward Islands. Of the same liberal principles as Sir Evan
+McGregor​—​firm, dignified, and polished​—​of courteous demeanour and
+pleasing address, Sir William was formed to command respect, and
+conciliate the affections of all classes. In his official
+proceedings, he was ever actuated by prudence; and with the
+welfare of the colonies, over which he presided, at heart, he
+pursued his way in that open, straightforward manner, which, to
+an honourable mind, is of such inestimable value.</p>
+
+<p>In the first year of Sir William Colebrooke’s administration, a
+bank was established in Antigua by royal charter;
+<a id="p151" class="pagenumber" title="Revocation of the militia."></a>
+thus rendering
+obsolete an act which had been passed in the early part of the
+reign of George III., for preventing the circulation of paper
+bills of credit in the colonies. Prior to this period, no
+governor could assent to such circulation, under forfeiture of
+1000<i class="currency">l.</i>, the being dismissed his government, and declared
+incapable of holding any other public office or place of trust.</p>
+
+<p>In the following year, his excellency deemed it proper to abolish
+the militia; a measure which saved the treasury of the island a
+considerable sum annually; and accordingly, on the 1st of July,
+1838, that body ceased to exist, and an end was put to all
+martial glory and deeds of arms among the store-keeper captains
+and planter colonels of Antigua. It was not until some time after
+the revocation of the militia, that the legislature remembered to
+call in the arms from the privates; and accordingly, when such
+orders were issued, great defalcation was discovered; the few,
+however, collected, were consigned to a far different purpose
+from what they were originally intended​—​being formed into a fence
+before the arsenal, where they remain, with their bayonets
+pointing to the skies, as mementos of the warlike acts of the
+island.</p>
+
+<p>Sir William Colebrooke entertained similar opinions as Sir Evan
+McGregor, upon the expediency of there being one general council
+and assembly among the islands under his jurisdiction; and
+consequently, strenuous exertions were made by him, to carry his
+plans into effect. The acquiescence of the home government to
+this measure was so relied upon by his excellency, that before
+accounts could be received from England, despatches were
+forwarded to the other Leeward Islands, calling upon the members
+of their respective legislatures to visit Antigua, in order to
+hold the first general council and assembly. The legislators of
+St. Christopher’s were the first to obey the summons, and some of
+that body were actually in the boat about to convey them on board
+the vessel in which they had taken passage for Antigua, when the
+packet with the European mails was observed
+<a id="p152" class="pagenumber" title="Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy."></a>
+in the offing.
+Anxious to receive their letters before their departure for
+another colony, they determined to wait until the post-master
+distributed them​—​a resolution which saved them a fruitless
+voyage; for, from despatches from Sir William Colebrooke, they
+learned that the English parliament had refused to acknowledge
+any general assembly.</p>
+
+<p>In 1840, Sir W. Colebrooke returned to England; and Major
+McPhail, the lieutenant-governor of Dominica, was called to
+administer the government for the time being. His excellency was
+also a man of liberal principles​—​one who was inflexible in
+performing his official duties without partiality, and earnestly
+desirous of promoting the public good, and effecting a kind
+feeling among all classes. As a private character, his courteous
+and pleasing demeanour endeared him to all who held communion
+with him; and when he quitted the government, he carried with him
+the best regards and earnest wishes of every member of the
+Antiguan community. Nothing of particular moment occurred during
+his administration, with the exception of the dreadful fire in
+1841, (further noticed in these pages,) and the strictness with
+which the police laws (respecting the capture of animals found
+strolling in the public streets) has been carried into force.
+Great has been “the hue and cry” among the swinish multitude; and
+day after day has the intelligence arrived that another
+unfortunate pig has been imprisoned within the walls of the
+pound, without any regard to the feelings of the said quadruped,
+or its family. Even Sunday​—​that day of rest​—​was no rest to them,
+or the parties whose duty it was to capture them; and so far was
+the disturbance carried, which such exploits caused, that some
+good people took the trouble to write and disseminate papers,
+calling upon policemen, magistrates, &amp;c., to observe to keep holy
+the Sabbath, and not allow pigs to be hunted before the very
+doors of the churches and chapels, even when service was being
+performed.</p>
+
+<p>Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy, who has succeeded as
+<a id="p153" class="pagenumber" title="My first voyage to Antigua."></a>
+governor-general of the Leeward Islands, is a branch of a high
+and noble English family. The accounts which have preceded him of
+his many virtues, bids fair for Antigua enjoying, in the person
+of her majesty’s representative, a good and liberal governor​—​one
+who will dispense justice without regard to caste or complexional
+prejudice​—​rewarding merit wherever it may be found​—​measures
+which, it is said, have been overlooked by many of his
+predecessors until within these last few years.</p>
+
+<p>Sir C. A. Fitzroy is lineally descended, in the female line, from
+Brigadier-General Crosby, (who had been appointed to the command
+of the Leeward Island government, in 1730,) as will be seen on a
+reference to his genealogy, in the Appendix.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note57" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref57">57</a>] It must be remarked, that the house passed these resolutions
+after a member had been duly returned upon former precedents, so
+that if the returned member was obnoxious from his liberal
+principles, fresh regulations were determined upon in order to
+dispossess him of his seat. These are the evils incident upon
+having no laws to govern elections.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch14" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">My first voyage to Antigua​—​Visit upon
+deck​—​The booby’s welcome​—​Nearer
+approach​—​Harbour of St. John’s​—​The Black
+Pilot​—​North Sandy Island​—​Wreck of the
+mail-boat​—​Dangerous navigation​—​Long
+Island​—​South Sandy Island​—​Panoramic views from the
+vessel’s deck​—​Light winds​—​Disappointment made
+pleasing​—​Anchorage for the night</p>
+
+<p class="init">Having noticed the most important of its historical events, I
+must now be allowed to give some description of the appearance of
+Antigua, and of my first visit to its shores. After a voyage of
+many weeks, early one morning we were agreeably saluted with the
+cry of “land!” Sleep was immediately banished from my eyes, and
+with a beating heart I waited until the day should “pour in
+apace,” and allow me the pleasure of viewing for the first time
+one of those tropical islands I had often thought of with
+delight. A fair wind filled our sails, and we rapidly gained upon
+the distant object, which (when I first peeped up the companion
+ladder) looked like one of those shadowy clouds I had so
+frequently seen
+<a id="p154" class="pagenumber" title="The booby’s welcome."></a>
+resting, as it were, upon the bosom of the ocean,
+at the utmost verge of the horizon.</p>
+
+<p>By this time the sun was fast mounting up the sky, and shone with
+all its fervour upon the glassy waves below; and as we
+noiselessly glided on, the mountains began to assume a distincter
+form, and proved beyond doubt that we were near the end of our
+voyage.</p>
+
+<p>A bustle upon the deck, the trampling of many feet, the rattling
+of ropes, and the sound of strange voices, and a stranger
+dialect, announced the arrival of the pilot; and unable any
+longer to suppress the longing desire I had to behold Antigua
+from a more eligible situation than my peep-hole, I hastily tied
+on my bonnet, and spite of the increasing heat, sought my
+companion upon the deck. Seated upon a hen-coop, which had been
+arrayed in all the glories of bright green paint, I prepared to
+look about me; when suddenly I felt a peculiar sensation, which
+told me, that, like “Achilles,” I was anything but invulnerable
+in my heel. A “booby,” or gannet, an aquatic bird, which had been
+captured the night before, and placed in “durance vile” within
+the self-same coop, was bidding me welcome to her native clime,
+by unceremoniously inserting her bill into that very susceptible
+part; and as I was not stoic enough to receive such favours
+unmoved, she expressed her displeasure by a doleful unharmonious
+scream. “Well,” thought I, “this is not the pleasantest welcome
+possible,” and turning my eyes towards the land, “nor this the
+most interesting looking island in the world.” In fact, it looked
+dull and dreary; its mountains appeared barren and sunburnt; and
+the distance prevented me from seeing the valleys and dingles
+which in some degree redeem it from insipidity.</p>
+
+<p>Our gallant vessel, however, still kept on her way, and—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Walk’d the waters like a thing of life;”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>and as we approached the land, the scene changed for the better.
+Bright green patches of the sugar-cane appeared
+<a id="p155" class="pagenumber" title="The harbour of St. John’s."></a>
+amid the brown of the foremost mountains; while the more
+distant of the chain presented that harmonious blending of
+a thousand dyes, which poets love to sing, and painters love
+to study. As it happened to be that season of the year when
+the sugar harvest was in progress, the white sails of the
+various mills glittered in the sunbeams, and upon the eminences
+the manager’s house (or in the language of the
+country, the “great house”) looked down upon its little
+hamlet of negro huts, picturesquely embosomed in trees.</p>
+
+<p>On, on we glided; the merry breeze piping in our ears, and the
+snow-white foam curling and writhing around our prow, until at
+length we came so near that we could see and almost count the
+waves as they dashed upon the silver sands of the surrounding
+bays. In one part a number of tall cocoa-nut trees stretched
+their long arms to the blast, whilst upon every side of us the
+light skiffs of the fishermen danced like cockle-shells upon the
+buoyant waters, and their dusky masters intently pursued their
+trade of entrapping the finny race.</p>
+
+<p>Our good breeze did not desert us; and rapidly and surely we made
+way, until we passed over the bar, and entered the harbour of St.
+John’s. What a busy scene now presented itself to my view; the
+various ships from England, Scotland, Ireland,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref58" href="#note58">58</a>]</sup> and America,
+distinguished by their several flags; the boats and droughers<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref59" href="#note59">59</a>]</sup>
+hurrying backwards and forwards with their loads; whilst the
+hallooing of the sailors, and the screaming of the negro
+watermen, conspired to render it the very imagery of discord.</p>
+
+<p>The town of St. John’s, with its white houses and green
+jalousies, lay stretched before us, surmounted by its neat and
+pretty church; and upon our left the Fort of St. James and Rat
+Island. While looking at the latter, up went
+<a id="p156" class="pagenumber" title="The black pilot."></a>
+a flag, which,
+fluttering in the breeze, announced to the good people of St.
+John’s the arrival of a ship from “<i>home</i>” as the Antiguans
+always call England. Several boats now joined us from the shore,
+conveying friends to welcome us to Antigua; a harbour-master, (a
+very agreeable and worthy personage by-the-bye,) to make certain
+inquiries; custom-house officers, (of a superior class of men to
+those who board vessels in the Thames, and are so disagreeably
+distinguished by their undeviating devotion to that herb, which
+Sir Walter Raleigh, in his excessive overflow of human kindness,
+is said to have introduced into England,) to see that if you
+smuggled yourselves on shore, you did not smuggle your goods; and
+plenty of black boys, to grin and chatter, and get all the
+biscuit and beef they could.</p>
+
+<p>But I must not omit to give a more particular account of the
+black pilot. A very pompous personage he was, and one who no
+doubt stood vastly high in his own estimation, as he lent upon
+the rail of the vessel, with his large straw hat, and gigantic
+snuff-box, giving orders to the sailors, and in the interim
+discussing the news of the island. “Hab fine rain last night; you
+bring good <i>wedder</i>​—​(war for you ’tand staring dere for, you
+black nigger ?)​—​yes, feber berry bad last month, many buckra
+die​—​(war you go do, run de ship on de shore?)​—​Crop bery good dis
+year; ship load fast ’nough​—​(why you no haul dat rope good?)​—​Yes,
+gubbernor bin bery bad; better now tho’.” And thus he ran on,
+until, the proper place gained, down dropped the ponderous
+anchor, a boat received us, and in a short time landed us “all
+well” upon one of the wharfs of Antigua, amid blacks and whites,
+porters and boatmen, and boys and girls clad “à la Venus.”</p>
+
+<p>The harbour of St. John’s is reckoned one of the finest and most
+commodious in the West Indies. The entrance is defended by Goat
+Hill Fort on the south, and St. James Fort on the north; across
+the mouth of it runs a shoal, known as the bar, which extends
+from a bay called Hog
+<a id="p157" class="pagenumber" title="Wreck of the “Maria.”"></a>
+John, to Fort James. The depth of water
+upon this bar is only from seven to fourteen feet; and
+consequently, ships, when they are partly laden, pass over this
+shoal, and take in the remainder of their cargo off Dickenson’s
+Bay. The principal trade of the island is carried on at this
+port, the harbour is generally full of shipping; and during the
+hurricane months, many vessels from the neighbouring islands come
+here for safety. The approach to it is, however, intersected with
+numerous rocks, and about three miles from its mouth lies a small
+island, surrounded by reefs and breakers, to which the name of
+“Sandy Island” has been attached. It was upon these reefs that,
+in 1826, the “Maria” mail boat was wrecked, and, with her hapless
+crew, went to the bottom. She had been down to St. Thomas and the
+other Islands with the mails for England;<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref60" href="#note60">60</a>]</sup> and upon her
+return, putting into Monserrat, took on board the Wesleyan
+missionaries, and their wives and children, who had been to St.
+Kitts to attend their yearly district meeting, and who were
+desirous of returning to Antigua, the scene of their labours.
+They had left St. Kitts a few days before, in a small vessel
+hired for the purpose; but finding it rather “crank,” they were
+unwilling to proceed, and determined to wait at Monserrat for the
+arrival of the “Maria.”</p>
+
+<p>But who can look into futurity? who can tell what may be in store
+for him? The <i>crank</i> vessel reached Antigua in safety; the mail
+boat and all on board, with the exception of one solitary female,
+perished in the treacherous waters, almost within sight of their
+own homes​—​within hearing of the church bell. I never pass the
+spot without shuddering, and fancying what must have been the
+feelings of that <i>one</i> who was spared to tell the dreadful tale.
+A woman of lively imagination and affectionate disposition, she
+saw friend after friend washed away by the remorseless waves. The
+pride
+<a id="p158" class="pagenumber" title="Wreck of the “Maria.”"></a>
+of manhood!​—​the shrinking delicacy of woman!​—​the helplessness
+of infancy!​—​all of no avail!​—​a splash​—​a bubble​—​and
+all was over, and their bodies filled the maw of some rapacious
+monster, or rested in some coral cave beneath the waters, there
+to remain until that great day, when sea and earth must give up
+their dead. Of the ill-fated voyagers, all who remained were, she
+who was destined to be the sole survivor, her husband, and the
+master of the vessel. Worn out by mental agony, and unavailing
+exertions to attract the notice of the many fishing-boats and
+other vessels which were constantly passing within their sight,
+but which either did not perceive or would not assist them, the
+master of the vessel gave himself up to the dominion of the
+“giant despair,” and losing his hold of the wreck, was quickly
+carried away by the waves. One more victim was required​—​and that
+was the dearest, the best beloved​—​her husband died in her arms,
+and after holding him for many a painful minute, and struggling
+for mastery with the billows to retain the much-loved corpse,
+nature became exhausted, and she sank into a state of
+insensibility. In this state she remained until the crew of some
+passing vessel raised an alarm upon their gaining shore. A party
+of gentlemen went in search of the supposed wreck, and finding
+the inanimate female, quickly conveyed her to the main land,
+where every care was lavished upon her, and happily not without
+success.</p>
+
+<p>No one can read the affecting details of the sufferings of this
+unhappy crew (an account of which Mrs. Jones, the name of the
+lady, afterwards published) without feeling deep sorrow at the
+event. At the same time, no one dares to ask “why was it so?” All
+we can allege is,</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“God moves in a mysterious way.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>This melancholy catastrophe was known at St. Kitts as
+soon as (if not before) it was at Antigua: the dead body of
+a child (one of the unfortunate passengers) conveyed the
+first direful tidings.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p159" class="pagenumber" title="Contiguous islands."></a>
+Sandy Island is by no means the only sentinel which Nature has
+placed to guard her favourite land from the sudden inroads of the
+enemy, the whole of the north side of Antigua being surrounded by
+rocks and breakers, which make it dangerous navigation. On this
+account ships generally come down the south side of the island,
+although some masters of vessels, from the impulse of a daring
+spirit, or from a want of knowledge, pursue the other course, and
+often have to lament the issue.</p>
+
+<p>On the northern and eastern sides of Antigua a great number of
+small islands are scattered, and it is from some of these that
+the smooth yellowish free-stone, of which the Court-house is
+built, is obtained; this free-stone is proved to be composed of
+carbonate of lime and oxyde of iron. The principal of these
+islands are, Pole-cat Isle, Goat’s Isle, Guana<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref61" href="#note61">61</a>]</sup> Isle, Maiden’s
+Isle, Cochran’s Isle, and Long Island.</p>
+
+<p>In 1700, Long Island, then the property of the Honourable Edward
+Byam, was sold by him, and it is now in the hands of the
+Honourable Bertie E. Jarvis. Since the Emancipation Act came into
+operation, a great part of it has been let out at an annual rent
+to the negroes, who plant it with provisions. It is noted for a
+peculiar breed of sheep, its rabbit-warrens, and the number of
+sea-side grape trees (<i xml:lang="zxx-x-taxon">Coccolobo uvifera</i>) which grow in all
+directions. In former times, there was a mill and sugar works
+upon it, (the ruins of which are still to be seen,) and more than
+a thousand hogsheads of sugar have been known to be shipped from
+thence in one year. This apparent improbability has been thus
+accounted for: large quantities of sugars used to be smuggled
+from Martinique and Guadaloupe, and landed safely and silently
+upon Long Island,
+<a id="p160" class="pagenumber" title="Dexterous evasion of the law."></a>
+which is particularly favourable for such
+adventures. These sugars were afterwards shipped to England as
+the <i>produce of the island</i>, by the following evasion of the law.
+It was customary at that period, to swear before one of the
+magistrates, as to the quantity of sugar made and intended to be
+shipped; and the certificate was then taken to the collector of
+her majesty’s customs, who, seeing the signature of the
+magistrate, allowed all was correct. The parties who were
+possessed of this smuggled sugar, and who were wishful of
+transporting it to its destined market, would come before a
+justice and assert that the seven or nine hogsheads which they
+intended shipping on board such vessel were the real growth of
+Long Island; the customary oaths were therefore administered, the
+magistrate signed his name, and the cocket was presented to the
+shippers to hand over to the collector. On the road to the
+custom-house, however, with ready pen they added a <i>ty</i> to the
+seven or nine (or whatever it might be) in the space which was
+cunningly left for that purpose, making it of course <i>seventy</i> or
+<i>ninety</i>; and as no questions were asked by the collector, they
+were in this manner enabled, from 100 hogsheads of the actual
+growth of the island, to ship from time to time more than the
+above number of 1000 hogsheads. This practice of evading the law
+(while they soothed their own consciences) gave rise to these
+shipments being called the “T. Y. sugar,” as will be remembered
+by many to this day.</p>
+
+<p>Guiana and Cochran Island also produced sugar at one time; and in
+1725, it was enacted by the legislature, that if the proprietors
+of those islands, as well as Long Island, suffered any loss from
+the inroads of the enemy, they should be reimbursed from the
+public treasury as well as any other inhabitant of Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>Following the line of coast from the north, before we once more
+make the harbour of St. John’s, we meet with, another “guard,” in
+the shape of a small island, bearing direct west from English
+Harbour, with a reef running three miles into
+<a id="p161" class="pagenumber" title="Beautiful scenery."></a>
+the sea, and which is known as <i>South</i> Sandy Island. This
+is also very dangerous to unwary mariners, particularly when
+the storm king rides the blast, and “warns the devoted
+wretch of woe and death.”</p>
+
+<p>But, with all its rocks and breakers, beautiful, very beautiful
+are the scenes which present themselves to your notice, as,
+seated upon the deck of some vessel, whose graceful sails are
+filled with a fresh and favourable breeze, you skirt along the
+sunny shores of lovely little Antigua. It has happened, in some
+of my frequent trips around the island, that, although the breeze
+has been fair, it was so light as scarcely to lift the canvas
+from the mast. But yet, the disappointment of not gaining land so
+soon as we expected has been amply compensated for by the
+beauties we have had more time to discover. Overhead is the
+sweet, clear blue of the sky, here and there dotted with a cloud
+so fair, that it might serve to pillow a sleeping Juno; and
+beneath, the crystal waters sparkling like gold in the beams of
+the blazing sun. In some parts, the green mountains descend to
+the very shore; while in others a calm and silent glen opens upon
+your sight, and the zephyr comes laden to you with the scent of
+its various flowers. Numerous creeks run far inland, and appear
+amid the surrounding verdure like chains of silver; and here and
+there a few negro huts lie nestling among a clump of splendid
+trees, with their neat-looking provision-grounds spread before
+them. As you pass Grace Bay, the land looks sprinkled over with
+gold, from the flowers of the aloe, (<i xml:lang="zxx-x-taxon">aloe vulgaris</i>,) which
+grows there in vast profusion; and the shore is bordered with
+sand, on which Amphitrite and her train might love to dance, and
+wreathe their flowery locks with the dropping seaweeds. And thus
+we while away the day, enjoying an ever-changing panorama, until
+the glorious sun reaches the west, and throws his rich beams on
+every cloud which “throngs to pavilion him.” Suddenly he appears
+to touch the bosom of the flaming waves; and then sending forth
+one long vivid line of glory, sinks to rest on his golden couch.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p162" class="pagenumber" title="Pleasing visions."></a>
+Now comes “still evening” on, and Hesperus and all “the starry
+host” people the heavens, until at length the moon</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Shews her broad visage in the crimson’d east,”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">and robs them of their brightness. And there she paces through
+those azure fields, not with the cold, pale aspect she wears in
+my own severer clime, but with the glow, the fervour, with which,
+in other days, she was wont, as “fabling poets” sing, to visit
+Endymion on the flowery heights of Latmus. Lovely is it, at such
+a time, to lean over the vessel’s side, and watch the limpid
+waves, as they throw up their sparkling foam. All turbulent
+passions die away​—​a pleasing calm ensues​—​and then, casting aside
+all heathen folly, and allowing the mind to revel at its will,
+come thoughts, indistinct, but beautiful, and dreamy imaginings
+of that happy land, where</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“The crystaline stream, bursting forth from the throne,<br/>
+     &#160;&#160;Flows on, and for ever will flow;<br/>
+   Its waves, as they roll, are with melody rife,<br/>
+   And its waters are sparkling with beauty and life,<br/>
+     &#160;&#160;In the land which no mortal may know.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">But earth’s chains are still about us, and the fairest scenes may
+prove the most deadly. A kind voice warns me of the increasing
+cold of the night-breeze; and as the last inch of the cable
+slides through the hawse-hole, and the tremor of the vessel, as
+it is suddenly stopped in its course, shews we have anchored for
+the night, I leave the cool air upon deck for the confinement of
+the cabin, with a prayer of thankfulness upon my lips for my
+frequent safe trips across the “blue waters,” and a hope that
+to-morrow’s dawn will bring us safely to shore.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note58" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref58">58</a>] The Scotch and Irish, in addition to the Union Jack, hoist a
+distinctive national signal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note59" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref59">59</a>] Droughers are small vessels used for conveying the produce
+of the island from the neighbouring bays to the shipping.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note60" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref60">60</a>] At that period, the mails from the different islands were
+conveyed to St. Thomas’s, in small vessels employed for that
+purpose, from whence they were despatched to England in one of
+her Majesty’s packets.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note61" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref61">61</a>] Formerly called Guiana Island, from the English settlers who
+emigrated thither from Guiana, when that country was surrendered
+to the Dutch by the treaty of Breda. The name is now corrupted to
+Guana.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch15" class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a id="p163" class="pagenumber" title="Scarcity of agricultural labourers."></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">The extent of Antigua​—​Opinion of some
+planters​—​Want of agricultural labourers​—​Emigration not
+always profitable to the negroes​—​“Seizar’s” letter upon the
+subject​—​Return of emigrants​—​Soil of
+Antigua​—​Geological
+matters​—​Petrifactions​—​Climate of
+Antigua​—​“Yellow fever”​—​Beautiful
+evenings​—​the appearance of the heavens​—​Evening
+visitants.</p>
+
+<p class="init">Antigua, as already shewn in another part of this work, contains
+about 60,000 acres: of which, probably, four-fifths are in a
+state of cultivation. It was the opinion of many planters, soon
+after emancipation, that the mountainous estates must, in great
+measure, be neglected, as the steadiness of the negroes is not
+always to be relied upon; and from the difficulties of the land,
+the plough would be almost useless. These prognostications have
+not been fulfilled​—​at least, no such instance has ever come under
+my notice; on the contrary, in my rides through the country I
+have seen many spots of land, which once bore only grass or wild
+shrubs, planted with canes, and bearing the title of “a sugar
+estate,” which, I feel assured, had slavery continued, would
+never have been cultivated.</p>
+
+<p>Still agricultural labourers are wanted; many of the negroes that
+were thus employed, while in a state of bondage, think it a
+disgrace to follow such patriarchal occupations now they are
+free. They therefore quit the country, take up the business of a
+mason or a carpenter, or something of the sort; and the result
+is, that not being competent, they are unable to procure work,
+and are idling about the street all day, until some vessel from
+the southern colonies, looking out for emigrants, holds out the
+temptation of <i>high wages</i>, which is ignorantly caught at by the
+negro;
+<a id="p164" class="pagenumber" title="Massa Seizar’s letter."></a>
+and he leaves his native island, his wife and children,
+without remorse, until sickness seizes him, and he is returned
+upon the country an emaciated being, unable to work at all.</p>
+
+<p>Emigration is not always profitable to the negro, even if he
+retains his health. Many, many of them, would gladly return, were
+they not bound for a certain number of years by the captains of
+the emigration vessels, (who make a complete trade of it by
+selling their indentures,) or else taken so far up the country as
+too often prohibit such resolve. A clever letter appeared in one
+of the West Indian newspapers some time ago, supposed to have
+been written from a negro at St. Kitts to his friend of the same
+dye, who had emigrated to Demerara, which I will insert for the
+amusement of the reader:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="letdate">“Sink Hitts, July ——.</p>
+<p>“Deer Pomp Eye,</p>
+<p class="letfirst">“You no I tould you how it wood be, but you all ways were a
+wild nagur, and wood neber hear reeson, and lubbed to follow your
+hedstrong ways. But now you are suffering for it, an I hope
+you’ll repent, as good Massa Parson says. You no you had no right
+to run away and leabe you yong pic’nees here to starbe. It was a
+most wicked act, but I ’spose the Capen who took you away will be
+made to support ’em as he ought. You are all no better dan
+Caraline who sent our fren Mushel’s pic’nee widout him knowing at
+all ’bout it, to Jimmy Radder (Demerara), having sold him me
+magin to de Capen. What you say ’bout de Spaniards is all bery
+true, an likely to happen, an me tink wid you our Capens are not
+to be trusted, for you no what our fren Fletcher did for which he
+get hang​—​how he carry off Nagers from Nevis, and trowed dem in de
+sea and drowned dem. Now me no tink dese Capens will trow de
+Nagurs in de sea, but me tink it bery like dat dey will hab
+private signell wid de Spaniards, who will way lay an take de
+nagurs
+<a id="p165" class="pagenumber" title="Massa Seizar’s letter."></a>
+away at sea​—​for de Spaniards will gib de Capens two times
+as much for de free Nagurs to make slabes of dem, as de Capens
+can get in Jimmy Radder. I hab seen de skul of Fletcher, for me
+be sumthing of a <i>free-no-low-gist</i> (phrenologist), and I assure
+you de skul of dese Capens hab gist de same <i>bumps</i>. And not only
+dis, Massa Pomp Eye, but dere is de law of Englan dat a vessel
+shall carry passengers cording to he size, dat is, so many Nagurs
+to so many tun, now dese Capens do break dis law an dese vessels
+is lible to be seezed and comphiz catted. Dis law was made as me
+told, to make all de peeple cumfurble dat all may hab room to
+walk ’bout an lie down, an sleep, an eat, an go safe, an to
+perwent de Capens from sack wry facing dem passengers, and no
+noting ’bout dere bizness, for see how dey cram de Nagurs in like
+toze in de shu, an only de oder day a vessel ful of Nagurs sprung
+a plank off Mons’ rat an was sinking fast an de Capen noed noting
+at all ’bout it until a noder ship met him an told him he was
+going down and dat all he poor Nagurs wood be drown. Oh! Pomp
+Eye, de Nagurs here be great fool for leabing dis bootiful
+country for sich muddy place as Jimmy Radder. Here dey hab plenty
+of fish from de sea, an dem dere be sich bootiful riber from de
+monting, an sich nice water to drink,​—​and dere is plenty of wood
+to cut, and dere is salt-fish, an pork, an beef, an all so
+cheap​—​an here nagurs be sirvalized, an de men an wimmin were
+cloze which dey do not do in Jimmy Radder, an on Sunday dey all
+go church an hab fine tings on. I’m told dat in Jimmy Radder dey
+can’t boil or roast dere plantins widout de wurrums (worms)
+crying and crawling out, an dat derefore dey mash ’em up all
+togedder in de pot an so eat dem. Brutes! Is de nagur of Jimmy
+Radder like our Nagurs? Hab dey any beerds? I heer dey hab scales
+like de fishes from lying in de mud an water, an dat dere
+shoulder bones stick out like de fins of one fish. An dis is de
+reeson our wimmin nagurs go to Jimmy Radder, <i>for de wimmin
+always
+<a id="p166" class="pagenumber" title="Soil of Antigua."></a>
+lobe de monsters</i>. Don’t fret you self Massa Pomp Eye
+’bout de dollars for I neber expect ’em. Me no ’tis all de same
+in de end, if you be paid one quarter dollar here for working, an
+on half dollar dere, for de tings for eat an drink are twice as
+deer dere as dey be here, widout being half so good eder. No,
+no​—​me be content​—​me no like snakes an wurrum an dose tings you
+hab in Jemmy Radder​—​me lobe me fader land, an no like <i>mud</i>. Here
+we all be Cristan an can reed and rite, an no be naked savages
+like aw you. Your poor yong ones send dere lobe to you​—​but dey
+shant want bread to eat, as long as your fren Seizer libes.​—​So
+good bi, an rub you body wid rum to get rid of de hagur, (ague.)</p>
+<p class="letyours">“Your fren,</p>
+<p class="signature">“Seizar.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>So much for “Massa Seizar’s” letter. I am not aware who is the
+actual writer of it; but the reasoning he puts into “Seizar’s”
+mouth is sound, and by the form in which it is presented may not
+improbably produce more effect than a graver production.</p>
+
+<p>The soil of Antigua is composed of two distinct sorts; the one, a
+rich black mould on a substratum of clay; the other, a stiff
+reddish clay, mixed with sand, upon a substratum of marl. The
+former of these is very productive when not suffering from those
+excessive droughts to which this island is particularly subject;
+but the latter is generally overrun with that species of herbage,
+known as “Devil Grass,” (<i xml:lang="zxx-x-taxon">Cynodon dactylon</i>,) which it is almost
+impossible to exterminate. Still, Antigua is one of the most
+fertile of the West India islands, and produces, in proportion, a
+larger crop than most of her sister colonies. The land requires,
+it is true, a quantity of manure, which is one reason for estates
+keeping such large herds of cattle as they do; but with the
+assistance of that, and the blessing of the “o’ercharged clouds,”
+she seldom disappoints the hopes of her planters; while her sugar
+stands
+<a id="p167" class="pagenumber" title="Geological curiosities."></a>
+as high as any in the English markets, and her <i>rum</i> has long
+been known for its pre-eminent qualities.</p>
+
+<p>The mountains contain beautiful varieties of fossils, and other
+geological curiosities. Among these may be found in the
+south-west chain, masses of trap, breccia, wacke, porphyry, &amp;c.;
+and in the inland parallel chain, splendid specimens of coralline
+schist, agate, jasper, chalcedony, amydoloid, cornelian, and
+silicified wood are to be met with, of which I need only raise my
+eyes to those collected before me to say how beautiful they are.
+These are generally found embedded in a matrix of a deep green
+colour, which of itself is very pretty, and when well arranged in
+buildings with the native free-stone, have a very good effect.</p>
+
+<p>In the northern districts are found fragments of limestone,
+containing fossil shells, spars, and crystals of quartz. This
+chain, running north and south, is supposed to pass under the
+sea, forming a reef, and reappearing at Monserrat: it is said
+that the fish found upon this reef are particularly poisonous.</p>
+
+<p>“Church Hill,” as it is termed, from the fact of the church being
+erected upon it, has been found to be composed of schist,
+enveloped in marl, and is particularly rich in its fossil shells.
+Thanks to the new flight of steps which have been lately erected,
+and the modifications made around that sacred building, (which
+has obliged the workmen to blast the rock,) I have been enabled
+to collect some fine varieties. Among these are conchs, cockles,
+&amp;c., in which the striæ are perfect, and some of them are
+beautifully crystalized.</p>
+
+<p>In almost all parts of the island petrifactions are to be met
+with. Among the most beautiful of those I have seen, may be
+enumerated red cedar, with agate intermixed; roots and branches
+of cocoa-nut trees; plantain stalks, with beautiful lines of
+agate running through them; a species of palm; a root of the
+dagger, (<i xml:lang="zxx-x-taxon">aloe vulgaris</i>;) the black mangrove, a branch of a
+tree, supposed to be the ceibar, or silk-cotton,
+<a id="p168" class="pagenumber" title="Salubrity of the climate."></a>
+with cornelian; besides many other varieties.
+Ochres of various colours are also to be dug in some districts;
+and in most parts of the island are quarries of stone;
+but they are not generally made an article of traffic.</p>
+
+<p>In some parts of the island are salt ponds, which might be worked
+to advantage here as well as at St. Kitts and Turk’s Island; but
+the Antiguans are not of an enterprising spirit; at least, all
+their attention is bestowed upon the cultivation of the
+sugar-cane, and if that succeeds, they are perfectly satisfied.
+Were it otherwise, there are many productions which might prove
+important and beneficial articles of commerce. Tobacco grows
+spontaneously about the country; coffee has become naturalized,
+and grows wild; it is said to be inferior in quality to that
+which grows in the other islands; but would not culture do much
+for it? Cotton, ginger, palma Christi,​—​all are disregarded; even
+the pimento is left to decay in its loveliness, and its fragrant
+fruit serves but to feed the feathered tribe; except when, at
+Christmas, its odorous boughs are gathered to flavour the
+plum-puddings of the negroes, or decorate the churches and
+houses, as the holly does in England.</p>
+
+<p>Although the islands of the West Indies, being all situated
+between the Tropics, are, as regards climate, very similar, yet
+Antigua is generally reckoned more salubrious than any of the
+others. Possibly, the reason of this may be attributed to the
+dryness of the soil, for we have no rivers, and very few marshes,
+as in many of the other islands, to exhale any degree of
+humidity. The towns are now also kept very clean and wholesome,
+particularly the capital, so that island seldom suffers from any
+pestilential diseases. The “Yellow Fever,” that dreaded scourge
+of the West Indies, has, however, frequently raged here to great
+extent, particularly in former years. In 1793 it was very violent
+in its effects​—​nearly the whole of the inhabitants of St. John’s
+fell ill with it, and many deaths occurred. It broke out in the
+shipping
+<a id="p169" class="pagenumber" title="Yellow fever."></a>
+in the harbour, and was supposed to have been brought
+ashore in a blanket, which had been wrapt round a person who had
+fallen a victim to it. In 1816 it again appeared, but not to such
+extent; but after the hurricane, in 1835, it raged with much
+virulence,​—​snatched many a young and beloved one from the family
+circle​—​separated parent and child​—​severed the holy bands of
+matrimony, and laid its victims in the cold and silent grave.</p>
+
+<p>It was supposed to be occasioned by the different effluvia which
+tainted the air after the gale; particularly that from the filth,
+which had for so many years been accumulating at the bottom of
+the harbour, and which, from the violence of the wind, had been
+completely stirred up.</p>
+
+<p>The warmest months of the year are June, July, and August. The
+sun, when not obscured by the density of the clouds, shines with
+a burning lustre; and did he not</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“——— kind before him send<br/>
+         The genial breeze, to mitigate his fire,<br/>
+         And breathe refreshment on a fainting world,”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">the heat would be insupportable.</p>
+
+<p>The meridian height of the thermometer, during this season, is,
+in the shade, about 80°, and the other parts of the year 70°; but
+I have observed the mercury to be, from the end of June to the
+end of August, from 86° to 90°, and often even higher. The sun is
+vertical at Antigua on the 7th of May and the 5th of August; and
+consequently on those days the inhabitants are ascii at noon.</p>
+
+<p>September, and the two succeeding months, are generally reckoned
+the most unhealthy periods of the year. At one moment, the sun
+darts its rays with an intensity almost insupportable, while the
+sea-breeze (that friend to sufferers from “all-conquering heat”)
+dies away, and a slothful calm prevails; at other times, the sun
+is hidden by black portentous
+<a id="p170" class="pagenumber" title="Beautiful evenings."></a>
+clouds; the air is chilly and unwholesome, and rank
+and noxious vapours are abroad.</p>
+
+<p>The longest day consists of about 13 hours; the shortest about
+ten. In these latitudes, there is scarcely any aurora, or
+twilight, so that it is scarcely light until the sun is up, and
+soon after he sets, it becomes dark.</p>
+
+<p>Suffering as the inhabitants do, from the great heat of the days,
+the delightful evenings are particularly enjoyed. No sooner has
+the sun hidden his rays in the bosom of the ocean, than the
+land-breeze arises; this, blowing as it were from the centre of
+the island, towards the sea, appears to come from all points of
+the compass at once. Evening is the time for walking; and often
+have I seen beautiful faces, and bright eyes, gleaming in the
+moonbeams.</p>
+
+<p>Every author who has written about these “sunburnt isles,” has, I
+think, mentioned the beauties of a West Indian night, and well
+worthy is it to be praised. The sky is of a deeper and more
+lovely blue, almost approximating to violet; and the atmosphere
+is so much clearer than in England, that many stars are visible
+to the naked eye which there require the aid of a telescope. The
+larger planets glitter with a refulgence unknown to more
+temperate latitudes—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“With purest ray,<br/>
+                    Sweet Venus shines,”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">and appears almost like another moon. Mars rolls on in eternal
+solitude, shewing his broad red face to our wondering gaze.
+Bright-eyed Jove, with his “atmospheric belt,” almost blinds us
+with his lustre; while the galaxy (or milky way) looks like—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“A circling zone, powder’d with stars;”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">thus they glide on in their beauty—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Bright wanderers o’er the blue sky free;”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">but oh! when our own attendant planet, the “Silver Queen
+of night,” rises in peerless majesty, shedding a flood of glory
+<a id="p171" class="pagenumber" title="Evening visitants."></a>
+over all the surrounding landscape, the scene is inexpressibly
+lovely. How often, when enjoying her beams, and gazing
+on her “spotted disk,” have I thought of those lines of
+Mrs. Charlotte Smith—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“And while I gaze, thy mild and placid light<br/>
+     Sheds a soft calm upon my troubled breast;<br/>
+     And oft I think, fair planet of the night,<br/>
+     That in thy orb the wretched might find rest.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The stillness and calmness of an English summer’s evening have
+been often and often described by our poets; here, however, no
+quietness is to be met with, but on the contrary all is bustle
+and noise. Sounds of every description fill the air, as soon as
+“evening grey” sets in. Parties of negroes, men, women, and
+children, gather together in groups, worthy the illustrative
+pencil of Cruikshank, to gabble away their <i>nancy stories</i>,
+relate their quarrels, or discuss the other business of the day.
+Bats of every size and shape fly backwards and forwards in search
+of their prey, or pay you an unceremonious visit through the open
+<i>jalousies</i> of your houses. Crickets and frogs raise their shrill
+pipes, which grate most unmusically upon the ear; cock-roaches
+(those disgusting pests of the West Indies) crawl over the
+floors, or ceilings of the apartments, or at times take the
+liberty of brushing in your face, or nestling in your hair;
+mosquitoes hum their monotonous song, or insert their proboscis
+into every accessible part of your flesh; while the land crabs
+clatter about, just like an old woman in pattens. The houses are
+lighted up as if for an illumination, the windows are thrown open
+to admit the evening air, and the fair inhabitants amuse
+themselves by playing upon harpsichords, or similar musical
+instruments, “Blue Bells of Scotland,” “Home, Sweet Home,” and
+other popular melodies.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch16" class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a id="p172" class="pagenumber" title="Scenery of Antigua."></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Scenery of Antigua​—​Pilgrimage to “Tom Moore’s
+Spring”​—​The Goddess Mnemosyne​—​Fig-Tree
+Hill​—​The “Bower of Bliss”​—​“Old Road”​—​The
+Strand​—​The cross sexton​—​The parochial
+school​—​Old Road Church​—​Tomb of Col.
+Williams​—​Moravian settlement​—​Salt
+ponds​—​Copses​—​“Crab Hill”​—​Sandy
+Valley​—​The Valley Church​—​The rising
+moon​—​Arrival in town​—​Night, and night dreams.</p>
+
+<p class="init">With respect to the scenery of Antigua, it is said to be neither
+“grand nor magnificent,” that “its mountains are too much like
+mole-hills,”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref62" href="#note62">62</a>]</sup> and in many other ways has it been depreciated;
+yet there are some spots of real beauty, which would strike the
+eye of even a painter or a poet. To see some of these to the
+greatest advantage, I would advise all such readers as have it in
+their power to take a drive or a ride (whichever they prefer)
+some fine morning to “Fig Tree Hill,” and return by “Crab Hill.”
+They will then meet with spots of such transcendent loveliness,
+as will cause the most unpoetic to exclaim, “Beautiful!
+beautiful!” But as some of my readers, perhaps, may never have
+the chance of taking such a tour, in pity to them, I will attempt
+to describe what I saw in my pilgrimage to “Tom Moore’s Spring.”</p>
+
+<p>It was a lovely morning (as most West India mornings are) when we
+started upon our journey. The sun shone bright and clear; indeed,
+far too clear for actual comfort, had we gone as “pilgrims grey,”
+with “scalloped hat,” and “sandled shoon,” and resting on our
+“staves;” but we preferred the less romantic, but more pleasant
+way of taking it quietly in our carriage. Quickly we passed
+through the town of St. John’s, leaving its busy inmates, its
+shops and
+<a id="p173" class="pagenumber" title="Tom Moore’s spring."></a>
+stores, its “Scotch row” and Scotchmen, and all its
+noise and bustle, for the quietness and freshness of the country.
+Upon gaining “Otto’s Hill,” at the outskirts of the town, I
+looked back upon the beautiful harbour of St. John’s, its blue
+waves just rippling the surface, its barques and brigs, schooners
+and sloops, bowing their heads as if in graceful homage to some
+sea-god from old King Neptune’s court; and its sloping shores
+displaying a carpet of luxuriant green, for a little rain which
+had fallen not long before had clothed the fields in a garb of
+lovely verdure. While thinking upon all these beauties, and the
+images they called up, my poetic fancies were crushed by the
+horrible noise of a long string of “cattle carts” and their sable
+drivers, coming into town with a load of molasses for “Brother
+Jonathan,” or some other worthy. This brought me down from the
+seventh heaven, and made me just then find out that it was very
+<i>hot</i>, and the road disagreeably dusty. However, in our
+pilgrimage through life, we meet with many crosses, and many
+<i>dusty spots</i>; and therefore, in our pilgrimage to “Tom Moore’s
+Spring,” we could but expect the same.</p>
+
+<p>The country certainly looked very pretty upon this eventful day,
+for every spot was green, and as we passed the numerous estates,
+an air of gladness seemed to be abroad. The breeze blew soft from
+off the mountains we were approaching, and greeted our olfactory
+nerves with the odour of the yellow acacia, which grew along the
+side of the road in vast profusion. In a short time, we reached
+the banks of a small rivulet, the only real stream Antigua can
+boast of, for the few others we passed owed their source more to
+the late rains than anything else. This rivulet was bordered by
+bamboos, and other species of wild cane, while larger trees, in
+many parts, shewed their gnarled roots, and bent their long
+boughs to kiss the swift gliding waters. Various aquatic plants
+grew along its margin, while in the stream itself sported my own
+country’s water-lily, bright nymphæa. Near to the spot stands a
+rural little temple of worship, with
+<a id="p174" class="pagenumber" title="Difficult travelling."></a>
+its plain white walls, and a
+little cross upon its roof, and across the rivulet is thrown a
+rustic bridge. This is a favourite resort for country
+washerwomen, and as we passed, many of them were busily engaged
+in their very necessary avocations; but as none of them presented
+the appearance of a nymph or a naïad, I will not introduce them
+to my readers.</p>
+
+<p>We had heard of the bad state of the roads before we left our
+home, of the hills we had to mount, and the dingles we had to go
+down; of the terrible ravines on one side, and the bare rocks on
+the other, and of places where the least swerve of the carriage
+would send us over, and then, according to our informant, “it
+would be no use to go look for you.” At every turn of the road,
+then, we looked for some trial, and “screwed up our courage to
+the sticking-point,” that we might be enabled to overcome them;
+but after travelling for some time, and meeting with nothing very
+terrific, we began to console ourselves, and remark, that the
+difficulties appeared to lie in the imagination. At length, we
+came to a pretty steep hill, which we surmounted in due time, and
+again sped on our way joyfully, thinking that all was very fair,
+when lo! up rose before us, if not a <i>mountain</i>, at least, a
+<i>giant hill</i>. Here would be the “tug of war,” so we called a
+council. “What is to be done?” was the first query. “Why, either
+<i>go on</i> or <i>go back</i>” was the answer. The old adage of “out of
+two evils, choose the least,” came into our thoughts. There was
+the hill behind, and the hill before, so we agreed to lay the
+various “for’s” and “against’s” before us in a very orthodox
+manner.</p>
+
+<p>To commence then: if we go on, we must mount this hill, but when
+we have accomplished that, we shall have no other of great
+consequence; we were near half way, so we should have almost as
+far to go back as to go on; on the other side, if we returned, we
+should still have a hill before us, and not have the consolation
+of visiting the celebrated “fig-tree.” Having come to the
+conclusion of our arguments, the word
+<a id="p175" class="pagenumber" title="Sawcolt Hill."></a>
+was given “forward,” and
+forward we attempted to go; but there were some of our party
+whose opinions had not been asked, but who, no doubt, felt as
+great concern in the decision as any one else; I mean those very
+noble animals ycleped “horses,” and for reasons my readers may
+easily conceive they appeared resolved not to proceed. After a
+few words of encouragement, however, and a few caresses, they
+agreed to lend us their aid, and once more we started.</p>
+
+<p>During the period that all this momentous business was going on,
+we had totally neglected the appearance of the weather, and had
+not a drop or two of rain fallen, and the sound of a distant clap
+of thunder echoed round us, I dare say we should not have thought
+upon such a subject. Here, then, was romance; a thunder-storm,
+and “Sawcolt Hill”​—​it only wanted an old castle and a horde of
+banditti to make it a scene worthy the pen of a “Radcliffe.” The
+lambent lightning played for awhile, and the thunder bellowed
+through the boundless sky, and then passed slowly away to the
+west, very much to my satisfaction. “Sawcolt Hill” was ascended,
+and descended, and the road became more beautiful at every turn,
+until at length we stood by the side of the noted freshwater
+spring. And what then were my reflections? I thought it was
+lovely in everything but its name​—​“Tom Moore’s Spring!” Who, in
+the name of all that’s romantic, could call such a spring by such
+a name? Had it been the “fairy’s spring,” or the “spring of the
+mountain sylph,” or something of the kind, it would have sounded
+as it ought, and some charming legend might have been attached.
+But who could ever inquire after “Tom Moore?” Why, the name of
+such a being puts all fancies to the flight!</p>
+
+<p>Thus far had my thoughts wandered, when suddenly, an ideal form
+passed before me; her sweet and classic countenance​—​her eyes
+which mocked the heavens in their dye​—​her long and silken lashes
+which drank the dew of her vermilion cheeks, all conspired to
+render me entranced. A blue mantle floated from her shoulders,
+and a thousand
+<a id="p176" class="pagenumber" title="Fig-tree Hill."></a>
+graces hovered round her steps. As she glided
+away, she placed one of her taper fingers upon her ruby lips,
+and, in a voice of liquid sweetness, uttered the word,
+“Remember!” I knew her for the goddess “Mnemosyne,” and I tried
+to follow her behest. My beautiful goddess assisted me, and
+brought to my recollection that “Bulbul of a thousand songs,”
+that sweet rhymer who charms us with his “bower of roses by
+Bendameer’s stream,” as with his melodies of the “Emerald Isle,”
+he who bears the well-known appellation of “Tom Moore.” I
+remembered all this to my shame, and determined in future never
+to utter one word against it, did all the springs in Antigua bear
+that name. After making this resolution, I turned once more to
+inspect “Tom Moore’s Spring.” The water is as clear as crystal,
+and of a refreshing coolness; and as it trickles from beneath the
+roots of a large bamboo growing by, each drop looks like liquid
+pearl. It has never been known to be dry, let the season be what
+it will, and consequently must be of inexpressible value to the
+adjoining estates. It was formerly built round with a stone wall,
+but that has long ago fallen to ruin, and no one has troubled
+himself to erect it again. I blame none, however, upon this
+score, for, in my opinion, it looks more romantic as it is;
+nature has done much for it, and art would only spoil her work.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the spring, another height presented itself,
+clothed with luxuriant woods. This was “Fig-tree Hill,” and no
+description I have ever heard of it has sufficiently set forth
+its beauty. Upon one side of the road is a deep ravine, whose
+irregular descent is hidden by trees of every description, which
+cover it to the bottom, and again ascend upon the opposite bank,
+until they reach the top of the neighbouring mountain; on the
+other side are sloping hills, carpeted with the gayest emerald.
+This beautiful hill takes its name from several large fig-trees
+which grow around; and from its highest point can be distinctly
+seen, upon a clear day, the four islands of Guadaloupe,
+Monserrat, Nevis, and St. Kitts.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p177" class="pagenumber" title="The bower of bliss."></a>
+After remaining upon the height for some time, and enjoying the
+extensive prospect, we prepared to descend; but how to describe
+the loveliness of the path, I know not. We alighted and walked
+down, that nothing might escape our observation. Trees of all
+species abound, and—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“With confessed magnificence deride<br/>
+            Our vile attire, and impotence of pride.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">The lofty “red cedar,” the beautiful “white-wood,” the
+glossy-green “loblolly,” the treacherous “manchineel,” which
+invites your approach by its beautiful fruit, while it infects
+you with its poisonous odours; the enormous “ceibar,” (or silk
+cotton,) the native “walnut,” (which in every tree presents such
+varying shades of green,) and the splendid “tamarind,” shade each
+side of the road, and cover the surrounding hills.</p>
+
+<p>In many places, huge masses of fantastic rocks rear their bare
+fronts to the heavens; some taking the form of old castles, with
+their frowning battlements and strong ramparts; and others
+looking as if about to fall into the valleys beneath.</p>
+
+<p>Just at the termination of the first descent is one of the
+sweetest spots in Antigua. It is one of tranquillity and repose.
+The fierce beams of the sun are excluded by the umbrageous
+foliage of the trees, around whose trunks various creepers
+entwine themselves, and throw their slender limbs from one to the
+other of these</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Green-robed senators of mighty woods,”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">forming many beauteous alcoves, carpeted with the lowlier
+flowers; whilst the “purple wreath” hangs its tasseled blossoms
+on all sides, and gives an air of lightness to the whole. A
+little silver stream (one of those the offspring of the balmy
+showers before mentioned) crossed the road in this part; and
+after leaping over roots of trees, or any other slight impediment
+which fell in its way, and thereby causing a thousand translucent
+waterfalls, at length lost itself in the impending woods. Oh! it
+was a lovely scene, and put me very much in mind of Spenser’s
+“Bower of Bliss;” particularly when</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza"><a id="p178" class="pagenumber" title="Jumbies."></a>“Was heard a most melodious sound<br/>
+          Of all that could delight a curious ear;<br/>
+          Such as might not upon terrestrial ground,<br/>
+          Save in this paradise, be heard elsewhere.<br/>
+          Full hard it was for him, who did it hear,<br/>
+          To guess what sort of music this might be;<br/>
+          For all that pleasing is to living ear<br/>
+          Were there soft mingled in one harmony:<br/>
+       Birds, voices, instruments, winds, waters, all agree.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">This was a true delineation; for although most tropical birds are
+devoid of song, the “painted warblers” might here be said to hop
+“from spray to spray.” The pretty little humming-bird fluttered
+among the flowers, extracting from them, with its long and
+slender beak, the liquid honey; and the doves courted each other
+with soft, but melancholy cooing, from many a leafy brake. Upon
+my remarking I never before heard birds <i>sing</i> in the West
+Indies, our negro-servant joined the conversation with​—​“Oh,
+missis! if you was to come here early in the moring, before the
+sun high, you would hear the birds singing in such a manner, that
+it would make you feel quite dismal all de day.” The first time I
+ever heard of the song of a bird producing such an effect.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to my description of this sweetest of all sweet
+spots. Did we live in “days of yore,” when fairies were wont to
+visit our world, and astonish the benighted swains with their
+glittering processions, we could fancy this one of their
+favourite retreats; but, alas! those harmless goblins have long
+disappeared, and with them all moonlight revels. The negroes,
+however, are determined it shall not be without some aerial
+visitants, so have peopled it with a tribe of <i>jumbies</i>, who,
+according to their account, are very different in behaviour and
+appearance to the pretty little elves.</p>
+
+<p>After carving our names upon the trunk of a noble tree, which
+appears to grow out of a rock, we proceeded on our journey
+through the same lovely scenes, which now became interspersed
+with palm-trees, until we entered upon a plain, on one side
+studded over with ruined Carib houses, and on
+<a id="p179" class="pagenumber" title="Old Road."></a>
+the other, laid out
+in luxuriant cane-pieces, belonging to the Hon. Rowland E.
+Williams, the descendant of a long line of noble ancestors, and
+whose paternal domain extends throughout the lovely scenes I have
+been endeavouring to describe. A few minutes’ drive brought us to
+“Old Road,” so called because it was the first high-road made in
+Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>This town, if town it can be called, is, as regards architective
+arrangement, a perfect nondescript; for streets there are none,
+but here and there a straggling house. There is the <i>beach</i>,
+indeed, which may justly be termed “<i>the strand</i>;” but, unlike
+that far-famed street in London, boasts no splendid shops​—​no
+arcades or bazaars, with their “euterpeons”​—​no brilliant lines of
+lamps, or crowds of well-dressed and busy passengers. A plentiful
+supply of bushes and “rock-stones” (as the Creoles call all
+descriptions of stones) make up for those deficiencies; and the
+murmur of old Father Ocean is the only music heard. Of the houses
+which are to be found, a few of them are in repair; but the
+greater part are falling to ruin, and have become a receptacle
+for hordes of green lizards. One of these buildings struck me as
+rather peculiar in appearance. Nothing remained of it, it is
+true, but the walls of rough masonry, with huge gable-ends
+pointing to the skies; but still it seemed as the work of another
+race of beings. Upon making inquiries about it, an inhabitant
+informed us her grandmother (who had died several years before,
+at the advanced age of 116) remembered it in the same ruinous
+state from her earliest years; but we could learn no further
+particulars.</p>
+
+<p>Our principal object for visiting “Old Road,” was to see a
+tombstone in the church, laid down to the memory of Col. Rowland
+Williams; and consequently, as soon as we arrived, our first
+inquiry was for the person who kept the keys of the church, and
+who acts in the capacity of sexton. While waiting for this
+official, we walked down to the beach. The harbour is a very fine
+one, and forms a complete rotund, except in the opening, where
+the sea stretches out beyond ken. A line of smooth silver sand
+borders the sea, diversified with
+<a id="p180" class="pagenumber" title="Old Road church."></a>
+clumps of mangrove, manchineel,
+and sea-side grapes; while here and there a cocoa-nut tree rears
+aloft its proud head, as if scorning to herd with the lowlier of
+its kind. For some time we amused ourselves with picking up
+various small shells, matted sea-weed, and corallines, which were
+scattered about the beach in profusion; but the heat,
+notwithstanding the fresh sea-breeze, was beginning to be felt
+oppressive; when turning the angle of one of the old buildings, a
+man with a bunch of keys in his hand appeared in sight.</p>
+
+<p>Although not always the case, still very generally, the face is
+the index to the mind; and when I first saw that man, I felt
+prejudiced against him. He came forward with a slovenly gait, and
+downcast looks, and to our inquiries for the keys of the church,
+he returned for answer, “Yes, but I can’t let you in.” On asking
+the reason, the rejoinder was, “Because the parson told me not to
+let any one go into the church.” This was by no means cheering
+news for us; it was far from satisfactory after riding fifteen
+miles, to be turned away without seeing the very object we came
+to look at. Every kind of persuasion was used to induce him to
+comply. I joined in urging him to “ope’ the door, and bid us
+enter,” but alas! I found him as insensible to the voice of
+woman, as to everything else. “Can we go into the churchyard?”
+was then inquired. “Yes,” was the surly answer; and following his
+steps, we soon reached that quiet spot.</p>
+
+<p>Even here he apparently viewed us with suspicion, thinking,
+perhaps, we not only looked capable of <i>sacrilege</i>, but of
+carrying away the church also; for although he still had the keys
+in his hand, and the rain began to fall, he not only remained
+inexorable, but looked as if he should be quite as well pleased
+if we quitted the place altogether. “The rain was falling fast,”
+and obliged us to retire to the shelter of a large white-wood
+tree, which no doubt was coeval with the first settlers, and
+beneath its spreading branches we remained for some time, until
+one of our party determined to try some other expedient, to gain
+the wished-for admittance, and for that purpose left myself and
+attendant in our shady retreat.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p181" class="pagenumber" title="Miss Austin."></a>
+After the lapse of about a quarter of an hour, a well-known voice
+was heard; and at an opening in the leafy covert, the person it
+proceeded from appeared, accompanied by a female. This was the
+parochial school-mistress; and a kind-hearted creature she
+appeared to be. She immediately sent in search of the cross
+sexton, and promised to take upon herself the responsibility of
+letting our party into the church; but the man was not to be
+found​—​he had left the town, and carried the keys with him. With
+native politeness, Miss Austin (as the worthy school-mistress was
+called) invited us to rest in her house until she could make
+further inquiries after the “keys;” and following our
+conductress, we shortly arrived at her residence, where (with a
+very warrantable kind of pride) she informed us, her mother was
+born, and married, and had reared eight children. Long before we
+gained the house, the hum of little voices was heard; and upon
+approaching the open door, about forty children, who formed the
+school, rose up, and commenced singing, “We make our obeisance to
+you, ma’am,” to the tune of “L—a—w, Law;” while a parrot,
+suspended from a beam, if she did not <i>sing</i>, at least
+<i>screeched</i> in chorus. After looking at these little negroes for
+some time, and inspecting the simple decorations of their
+school-room, we were ushered up stairs, and introduced to Miss
+Austin’s two sisters.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot help speaking more fully of the polite behaviour of this
+trio. I came among them a perfect stranger, my name even being
+unknown, and in all probability never again to meet in this
+world; but every little attention possible was lavished upon me,
+the choicest produce of their garden tendered, and without the
+least parade. I have mixed with society in a far higher grade,
+where courtly manners prevail, and every art is tried to invest
+each action with a polished grace; but often, very often, has
+less native good-breeding, fewer sterling qualities of the mind
+been displayed than I found in the sisters of “Old Road.” They
+are not like the generality of persons in their line of life;
+hospitality indeed is, I believe, a virtue which most of them
+<a id="p182" class="pagenumber" title="The lime-tree."></a>
+possess; but there was no aping of their betters, as is too
+frequently the case with this class of people; no flying away,
+when we came so suddenly upon them, to put on a brass chain, or a
+string of glass beads; or to take off an untidy wrapper, to
+enrobe themselves in a smart gown; their neat dresses and
+snow-white collars, like beauty, needed not “the foreign aid of
+ornament.”</p>
+
+<p>Many a beautiful tree grew around their humble dwelling, and many
+a sweet-scented flower almost entered the open windows. When we
+had rested for a short time, we proceeded to the garden, to see a
+lime-tree. Knowing as I did the blighted state of these trees in
+Antigua, I expected to see a diminutive shrub; what, then, was my
+surprise, upon entering the little paddock, (for it had more the
+appearance of that than a garden,) to see a noble tree, covering
+the space of about fifty square feet, loaded with its fragrant
+fruit to the very ground. Well worthy was it to be looked at!
+well worthy to be praised by an abler pen than mine!​—​no
+indefinite article could be used to this shrub; it must be called
+<i>the</i> lime tree, and nothing else. While looking, again and
+again, at this beautiful tree​—​pressing its odorous leaves, and
+inhaling the scent of its golden fruit, the youngest sister
+remarked, “The archdeacon was here the other day, to catechise
+the children, and upon seeing this tree, said it looked as if the
+blessing of God was upon it.” And in truth it does appear so, for
+it flourishes on in its beauty in the midst of a burning sand,
+whilst most of its species are blighted and seared.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the lime-tree, we returned to the house and heard
+the children read a chapter in the Bible, and repeat the gospel,
+which they did very correctly, although some of them had not
+numbered their fifth year, thus proving the pains their tutoress
+takes with them; and then, putting up with our disappointment,
+left for home. As we were passing the church, Mr. Sexton appeared
+to have altered his mind in some degree, for (but with a very
+indifferent grace, it must be owned) he condescended to open the
+church door, and allow us entrance. The church, which is composed
+of hewn stone,
+<a id="p183" class="pagenumber" title="Tomb of Col. Williams."></a>
+is built in the form of a cross, and is noted for
+being the first place of public worship erected in Antigua. There
+is nothing very remarkable in the interior; the walls are plain
+white, and the floor paved with brick; but it is a quiet little
+church, where the good people of that neighbourhood may worship
+their God in peace. Over the altar is an old painting of Moses
+and Aaron in their robes; and under the communion table reposes
+the ashes of him who may be called the founder of the church; for
+he gave the land, and liberally contributed towards its erection.
+This was Col. Rowland Williams, who, as before-mentioned, was
+celebrated for his various good qualities, as well as humanity,
+in a period when the West Indies were generally enveloped in
+moral darkness. The epitaph upon his tomb-stone is inscribed in
+Latin; but as many of my readers no doubt prefer the English
+translation, I will insert it, which I am enabled to do through
+the kindness of the Rev. H. G. Hall.</p>
+
+<p class="cent">Here safely lie in Mother Earth<br/>
+             The mortal remains of Rowland Williams.<br/>
+                   We are but dust and ashes!<br/>
+       He was the first male infant of European extraction<br/>
+                  Lawfully born in this island.<br/>
+        When he attained to manhood, he conducted himself<br/>
+                            As a man,<br/>
+     Being equally in military, as in civil life, an honour<br/>
+            As well to himself, as to his connexions.<br/>
+             In the field, he was a bold commander;<br/>
+            In the senate, he was a wise councillor:<br/>
+              What avails strength without wisdom?<br/>
+       He was a loyal subject of his king, a protector of<br/>
+                          His country,<br/>
+    A true father to his children, hospitable to his guests,<br/>
+               A friend to his friends. In a word,<br/>
+                  He was all things to all men.<br/>
+             Throughout his whole life he displayed,<br/>
+             With health of body, soundness of mind.<br/>
+        Possessing the strictest honesty and much wealth.<br/>
+                He fell a tardy victim to death,<br/>
+               Having survived about eighty years.<br/>
+          He was buried the twentieth day of ——— 1713.<br/>
+              Since it is certain that we must die,<br/>
+        We should without delay take warning against it.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p184" class="pagenumber" title="Journey to Crab Hill."></a>
+Near the altar is an elegant and chastely ornamented white marble
+tablet, erected to the memory of Mrs. Williams, daughter of Sir
+Patrick Ross, K. C. B., and wife of the Hon. Rowland E. Williams,
+the great-great-grandson of the above Col. Williams. This
+exemplary lady died at the early age of 32; respected by all
+classes, and deeply regretted by those who were honoured with her
+friendship. The following lines are engraved on the tablet:—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Death, ere thou canst claim another,<br/>
+          Fair, and good, and wise as she,<br/>
+          Time shall hurl his dart at <i>thee</i>.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref63" href="#note63">63</a>]</sup></p></blockquote>
+
+<p>After copying these inscriptions, and casting one more glance
+round this rustic church, we returned to our carriage, and
+proceeded on our journey to “Crab Hill.” Before relating the rest
+of our adventures, I must remark, that the line of conduct
+pursued by the sexton of “Old Road” is not common in Antigua,
+such officials being generally very obliging.</p>
+
+<p>Near to “Old Road” is a pond, which is formed by the hand of
+nature into a complete bason. It is surrounded with some fine and
+noble trees, which form a screen, and is embellished with a
+variety of odoriferous flowers, which
+<a id="p185" class="pagenumber" title="Devil’s Punch Bowl."></a>
+bloom and die unknown and
+uncared for, illustrating those beautiful lines of Gray’s—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,<br/>
+          And waste its sweetness on the desert air.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">Near to this spot is a natural excavation, called the “Devil’s
+Punch Bowl,” which, although I had often heard it spoken of as
+something very grand, did not cause me much pleasure or
+astonishment, being, in fact, nothing more than a deep hole, with
+a little turbid water at the bottom.</p>
+
+<p>About a stone’s throw from “Old Road,” on the top of the hill,
+stands a Moravian settlement, with its neat white house and
+chapel; there is always an air of comfort around these
+settlements, which speaks to an English heart; and the Moravians
+themselves are a quiet, well-meaning people, diligent in the
+discharge of their ministerial duties, and earnestly desiring
+their people’s welfare. May they meet their reward!</p>
+
+<p>After passing the fort of “Old Road,” the next place which
+attracted our notice was the salt ponds, with their fringe of
+mangrove trees and little islands. Innumerable soldier crabs were
+hurrying to and fro,​—​some looking out for a new coat of mail, in
+the form of a new shell, and others hunting for their prey, which
+is very frequently the weak and small of their own class. The sea
+now burst upon our sight, and added to the beauty of the scene;
+its surface was as smooth and clear as a mirror, except where the
+breakers played over a long reef, which runs far out from shore,
+and threw up their lovely but dangerous spray in measured
+showers,​—​no wonder the ancients fabled their goddess of beauty to
+have sprung from this sparkling object.</p>
+
+<p>After passing the rectory of St. Mary’s, our road lay through
+copses, whose overhanging boughs formed a beautiful and verdant
+arch. The sunbeams, penetrating through them, danced in sportive
+glee upon the chequered ground, while between the boles we caught
+picturesque glimpses of
+<a id="p186" class="pagenumber" title="Crab Hill."></a>
+the ocean. I could not help noticing one
+peculiarity in passing through these woods, that almost every
+tree is decorated with that species of parasite called wild
+pines;<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref64" href="#note64">64</a>]</sup> the great varieties of cactus was also remarkable.</p>
+
+<p>After journeying along the road for about a mile, we came in view
+of “Crab Hill,” noted for the dangers it presents to travellers,
+should their horses prove restive, or night overtake them. Here
+again we alighted, determined that nothing should escape our
+gaze. The road rises about 180 feet from the sea, in an abrupt
+precipice clothed with the dwarf acacia and “milk-bush”​—​those
+ever-to-be-found productions of Antigua. A low wall of stones,
+loosely piled, borders the edge of the road, which would prove
+but a sorry guard against any accident. In the steepest part of
+the hill, we looked over, and watched in silence the beautiful
+but treacherous waves, as they laved the rocky base of the
+precipice. Here and there a blasted parasite clung to it, and
+feebly strove to hide its ugliness; and one or two sea-birds sat
+watching for their prey, and pluming their rumpled feathers. At
+the sound of our voices they started, and after turning upon us
+their bright quick eyes for a moment, as if to ask why we
+obtruded upon their solitude, flapped their wings and soared
+screaming away through the vaulted ether.</p>
+
+<p>We enjoyed the scene for some time longer, and then remembering
+we were still many miles from the capital, and the sun had almost
+completed his daily journey, we resumed our seats and set our
+faces towards home. A ride of a few more
+<a id="p187" class="pagenumber" title="Sandy Valley."></a>
+minutes brought us to a
+place called “Sandy Valley,” which proved not to be, like some
+places, a <i>misnomer</i>, for there is sand enough for any one’s
+taste, and fine glittering sand it is too. The sea bounds one
+side of the valley, and a stagnant marsh the other.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving this, we passed by the valley church and school,
+cultivated cane-pieces and neat-looking “great houses,” negro
+huts and provision grounds, and an open country, for we were
+rapidly leaving the mountains behind us. On our right, we passed
+a methodist settlement, and another belonging to the Moravians,
+and hard by a fresh-water spring; but I began to feel very tired,
+and consequently did not find out beauties which otherwise might
+have attracted my attention. A pretty sloping hill lay before us,
+and as we passed, the “full-orb’d moon” rose above it, and</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“O’er the night her silver mantle threw.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>A sudden turn in the road placed her lovely face behind us, and
+languidly reclining in a snug corner, I mused in silence upon the
+beautiful scenes I had passed through in our pilgrimage, until
+roused by a bustle in the road, just at the entrance of the
+capital, where men and boys, long poles and ropes, and that very
+respectable quadruped, dignified by Antiguans with cognomination
+of “a cattle,” formed the <i>figurantes</i>. The poor creature had
+been landed from an American vessel that morning, at a
+neighbouring bay, and exhausted, I suppose, with the discomfits
+of its voyage, had fallen down on its way to the butcher’s. I
+don’t think its sufferings were of long continuance, for the next
+morning I heard the black bellman announcing to the public, that
+“A fine fat ’merican ox was slaughtered at the shambles of
+‘Seizar’ James.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref65" href="#note65">65</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p><a id="p188" class="pagenumber" title="The seasons at Antigua."></a>
+But to conclude our adventures; we rapidly passed through the
+grass-market and the town, heard the jingle of many a piano and
+the squeak of many a flute, (I mean no disparagement to the
+performers,) almost ran over a pig or two, who, spite of a late
+prohibition, were walking out to enjoy the cool of the evening;
+and at length safely alighted at our residence in “Spring
+Gardens.”</p>
+
+<p>In the course of an hour or two, I willingly resigned myself to
+the dominion of sleep, and dreamt of mountains and
+thunder-storms, springs and fairies, precipices and lime-trees.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note62" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref62">62</a>] “The highest mountains are not more than 1500 feet above the
+level of the sea.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note63" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref63">63</a>] The above lines are taken from an epitaph written upon the
+Dowager Countess of Pembroke, sister to the celebrated Sir Philip
+Sidney one of the favourite courtiers of Queen Elizabeth, and
+author of a romance entitled “Arcadia,” which he dedicated to his
+sister the Countess. On this account it is frequently called “the
+Countess of Pembroke’s Arcadia.” This lady was noted for her
+great learning, in an age when classical knowledge was the common
+accomplishments of the court ladies. Her principal work was a
+translation of “Antonius,” a French tragedy.</p>
+
+<p class="stanza">“Underneath this marble hearse,<br/>
+              Lies the subject of all verse.<br/>
+              Sidney’s sister, Pembroke’s mother.<br/>
+              Death, ere thou hast kill’d another,<br/>
+              Fair, and learn’d, and good as she,<br/>
+              Time shall throw a dart at thee.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note64" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref64">64</a>] There is one great peculiarity in this plant which deserves
+notice. The leaves are cellular, and so formed as to make sure
+reservoirs for the drops of rain, which fall into them from the
+top, through small openings. The seeds are furnished with a downy
+substance, by which means they float through the air, and take
+root upon any part of a tree or shrub upon which they chance to
+fall. The leaves always grow erect, by which means they safely
+hold the rain water. Dampier mentions piercing these plants with
+his knife, and catching the water in his hat when suffering from
+thirst.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note65" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref65">65</a>] It may be proper to note, that such events are not of
+everyday occurrence in Antigua. Not more than two “cattle” are
+slaughtered in the capital in a week, and when such deed is
+committed the bellman announces it to the public.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch17" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">The seasons at Antigua​—​Heavy
+rains​—​Long droughts​—​The water-merchant​—​A
+fortunate shower​—​Drought in 1837​—​Desolate appearance of
+the country​—​Famishing cattle​—​Definition of “<i>fine
+rains</i>”​—​Anecdote​—​Heavy
+shower​—​Joy​—​Earthquakes​—​1835​—​Meteors​—​Dressing
+for the ball​—​The alarm​—​The
+ball-room​—​Hurricanes​—​Devastations.</p>
+
+<p class="init">The seasons at Antigua may be divided into the <i>wet</i> and
+<i>dry</i>. The wet season generally commences in July, and
+continues, with intermissions, until October; and in February
+we look for it again. The rains in England are but summer
+dews, comparatively speaking, to the torrents which the
+overcharged clouds pour down upon these “Isles of the
+West.” No one but an actual observer can form any
+idea of the violence of these storms. In a moment the streets
+are inundated, and the falling of the large drops upon
+the shingled roofs of the houses is quite deafening.</p>
+
+<p>But at the same time these rains constitute the Antiguan’s
+greatest blessing, for not only do they revive the parched
+and thirsty earth, cool the atmosphere, promote the growth
+of the sugar cane, and dress nature in her loveliest garb;
+but from having (as before mentioned) only two or three
+<a id="p189" class="pagenumber" title="Long droughts."></a>
+fresh-water springs in the island, and those far inland, their
+chief supplies of that necessary fluid are derived from these
+showers. Large cisterns are dug and carefully lined with
+some kind of plaster, either terrace, brought from Monserrat
+or St. Christopher’s, or Roman cement, to contain it;
+and as rain water has the property of purifying itself, it is
+generally translucent and wholesome.</p>
+
+<p>Antigua has, however, at various times, suffered long and
+dreadfully from drought. In 1779, the long want of rain was
+painfully felt; and in 1789 it occurred again, but with redoubled
+severity. Famine, it was supposed, would be the result. As many
+as five thousand head of horned cattle are said to have died; and
+men and women fell down in the streets from exhaustion. I have
+felt what it is to suffer from this cause in a small degree; the
+water we have been obliged to drink when the cisterns were dried
+up was nauseous in the extreme​—​only stern necessity would have
+induced persons to partake of it.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes, when nearly all the ponds in the island are dry, (as
+was the case in 1833,) it becomes necessary to despatch vessels
+to the nearest islands for a supply of water. This season of
+general distress proves, at times, a rich harvest to those
+adventurers who possess, or can hire, a small vessel, and load it
+with water, for which they charge very high.</p>
+
+<p>A circumstance occurred in the above-mentioned year, in relation
+to this practice, which it may be worth while to relate. During a
+long succession of dry weather, and when there was but very
+little water to be found in Antigua, one of these
+<i>water-merchants</i>, if I may be allowed to use that expression,
+went to Monserrat (a small island a few hours’ sail from Antigua)
+for a cargo of this useful beverage. Upon his return he asked an
+extravagant price for it; the poor people murmured; but what was
+to be done? Water must be had; and in the end the hard-earned
+wages of many a one found their way into the pockets of this
+“Aquarius.”</p>
+
+<p><a id="p190" class="pagenumber" title="A fortunate shower."></a>
+Finding his profits so great this time, and the dry weather
+continuing, he determined to make another trip, and if possible,
+add a little more of the “Honey of Hybla” to his stock. He
+arrived at Antigua with his elementary cargo in the evening, and
+immediately commenced his traffic. But in this instance he
+outwitted himself; for raising his demands as the necessity of
+water appeared the greater, the people were unable to comply, and
+determined to wait until morning, in hopes of procuring some at a
+cheaper rate.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime the clouds began to darken, and appeared to rest
+upon the top of the mountains. The wind whistled mournfully among
+the trees​—​the air became chill​—​the mercury fell, and in a few
+moments the windows of heaven were opened, and the long-looked
+and wished-for rain descended, not in measured drops, “soft and
+slow,” but in torrents. Now was the season of exultation; every
+vessel capable of containing fluids was put in requisition, and
+the mortified <i>water-merchant</i> was obliged to get rid of his
+cargo the best way he could. Near to our residence is a kennel,
+which in dry weather is totally devoid of moisture, but during
+these heavy rains it becomes a small rivulet. To this stream then
+rushed a motley group; men, women, and children, dogs and
+poultry​—​all participating in the general joy; even the swinish
+multitude grunted forth their approbation, and ran to lave their
+snouts in its cool waters.</p>
+
+<p>It was laughable to see the little black children as they
+scampered about, shaking their hands, and screaming with delight
+as they enjoyed their natural “shower bath,” which proved a more
+effective one than even Mrs. O’Flinn’s. Talking of “shower baths”
+brings to my recollection an anecdote related of a late merchant
+of St. John’s.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. B———, the merchant in question, had been for some
+time suffering from indisposition, and his medical attendant
+advised him to try the renovating influence of a shower-bath.
+Accordingly, such a machine was duly procured, and the
+<a id="p191" class="pagenumber" title="Anecdote."></a>
+next morning put into requisition. In the course of the
+day the physician called to ascertain the state of his patient
+after his ablution, and with winning voice, inquired how he
+liked his “shower-bath.” “Oh, doctor!” replied the sick
+man, with rueful look and lengthened visage, “I verily
+thought I should have fainted, the shock was so great.”
+“Indeed,” said Dr. M———, in his usual bland manner, “I
+am sorry it had such an effect; why did you not follow the
+Irishman’s plan, and take your umbrella?” The next forenoon
+brought with it the customary medical visitor, who
+again inquired into the merits of the bath. “Why,” quoth
+the invalid, “I cannot say the shock was so great, but I do
+not think I shall derive any benefit from it; in fact, only my
+feet received a wetting this time, for I followed your advice
+<i>and carried my umbrella!</i>”</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the subject of droughts. Severe as the drought
+was in 1833, it was nothing compared to what we suffered in 1837,
+from the same cause; and, indeed, for the greater part of the
+preceding year. The old people remarked that they never
+remembered its being so dry since 1789, (which was particularly
+distinguished as “the year of the drought.”) What miseries the
+Antiguans then suffered, I am of course from experience unable to
+say; but if they exceeded those endured in that eventful year,
+1837, they must have been terrible indeed.</p>
+
+<p>Almost every pond and cistern in the island was dried up,
+scarcely a blade of grass was to be seen; and when walking over
+pasture land, it crackled beneath the feet as if it had been
+baked. The poor cattle presented a most deplorable appearance,
+wandering about as they did in search of food and water, and
+expressing their urgent wants, by faint, melancholy lowings.</p>
+
+<p>The poorer class of inhabitants, also, felt it very much, obliged
+as they were to drink the spring water, which is but very little
+better than salt. The little fresh water they were able to
+procure occasioned them great labour, for after toiling
+<a id="p192" class="pagenumber" title="Sir Evan Murray McGregor."></a>
+hard all the day, they were obliged to devote the greater
+part of the night to fetching it from distant parts of the
+islands, carrying it in tubs upon their heads.</p>
+
+<p>It was a pitiful sight to see the country, it presented such a
+scene of barrenness. The cane-pieces looked burnt up; nothing was
+to be seen but dry and withered leaves, in place of their
+accustomed rich green; the provision grounds became mere wastes,
+and all agricultural employments were at a stand.</p>
+
+<p>Days and weeks thus rolled on, and still the same blue cloudless
+sky​—​the same burning sun. Or if a cloud did arise, and skim the
+vast concave, and the hopes of men grew strong, it passed away
+without giving the long-looked-for blessing. Again, and the scene
+changed. Huge dense clouds might be seen, piled one upon another,
+and slowly extending themselves over the sky until they reached
+the zenith; the upper ones looking as if crowned with snowflakes,
+while those nearer the earth were black and heavy like a
+“funereal pall,” and appeared as if about to discharge their
+burdens. “Now we shall have it!” was the cry; “at last, we shall
+have rain!” Delusive hopes! doomed to be overthrown; these again
+passed away, and left no boon.</p>
+
+<p>Every day presented appearances more and more alarming, the
+little supply of water was rapidly diminishing, and men and
+brutes were becoming exhausted by thirst. Days were set apart by
+the legislature for public prayers and fasts, and a sum of money
+granted for the purpose of hiring vessels to go to Monserrat for
+water. This water was sold by the pail, but from being brought
+over in molasses’ casks, it tasted extremely disagreeable.</p>
+
+<p>The late Sir Evan Murray McGregor, then governor of Barbados,
+hearing of the necessities of the Antiguans, (over whom he had
+formerly held sway in the character of commander-in-chief of the
+Leeward Islands,) sent a man-of-war with a cargo of this precious
+element from that island; but under some pretence or the other,
+it was refused by the
+<a id="p193" class="pagenumber" title="Sufferings from drought."></a>
+legislature. The cause of this
+extraordinary line of conduct was said to be this. Sir Evan was
+not generally a favourite governor with the aristocratic party:
+he was a man of strict principles, and one who poised the scales
+of justice with an impartial hand between rich and poor, white
+and coloured. He would not herd with the <i>great people</i>​—​go to
+their houses, eat their corn-fed mutton and turtle, drink their
+<i>Château Margeau</i> and Champagne, and then wink at their
+proceedings, and gloss over their errors, like some of his
+predecessors. Upon this account he was not liked, and when in the
+kindness of his heart he sent the present of water, it was
+refused in a very cold manner. Some of the members of the
+assembly were against this arrangement, and said, for the honour
+of Antigua, that they would rather have lost double the amount
+than it should have been returned.</p>
+
+<p>But to return more particularly to the drought. Not only did the
+inhabitants suffer from want of water to drink, and for general
+use, but the country provisions, such as yams, potatoes, &amp;c.,
+upon which the negroes principally depend, unavoidably failed;
+and as all importations were raised so much in price, the lower
+classes were almost starved.</p>
+
+<p>The planters endured great inconvenience, not only from the
+dryness of the soil, which ruined the sugar-canes, but also from
+having to pay the same number of labourers their regular wages,
+without having anything for them to do, yet at the same time
+being obliged to retain them, lest when the wet season did come,
+and their assistance was really required, they might not be
+procurable.</p>
+
+<p>I heard a circumstance related which occasioned a smile, even in
+this time of distress. A certain good lady of St. John’s sent one
+of her domestics to the sea side for a pail of salt water. It
+happened to be ebb-tide,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref66" href="#note66">66</a>]</sup> and upon the servant returning, she
+exclaimed to her mistress, the greatest astonishment being
+depicted upon her countenance, “Why
+<a id="p194" class="pagenumber" title="Anecdote."></a>
+missis, war you tink? It dry so till sea himself dry now.
+War eber we go do, me no no.”</p>
+
+<p>Oh! how anxiously did we watch the barometer day after day, in
+hopes of its indicating rain. The inhabitants of the different
+parts of the island meeting one another, the first question asked
+was, “What weather have you had? do you think we are likely to
+get any rain?”</p>
+
+<p>A proprietor of a large estate in a distant part of the island,
+but who resided in the capital, met one morning a labourer of his
+coming from the country, and of course asked what news there was,
+and how they were coming on. “So, so, massa,” returned the
+negro​—​“we hab fine rain last night.” “Say you so, my fine
+fellow?” quoth his master, his heart enlarged at the prospect of
+his canes flourishing, “well, here’s a quarter-dollar for you, as
+a reward for your good news.”</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the same day, the manager of the estate arrived
+in town, and upon seeing the proprietor, was congratulated by him
+upon the “fine rains” he had so fortunately experienced in the
+country. “<i>Fine rains!</i>” said the manager, in surprise, “do I
+hear you aright, or are you joking? (although I think you’ll find
+it no joke in the end;) we have had no rain at all, and I came
+into town this morning to consult with you upon the subject; for
+from the excessive drought, the canes are all burnt up, the
+cattle dying in all directions, and the labourers themselves are
+dropping down exhausted from want of water.”</p>
+
+<p>The proprietor stormed and raved​—​that fellow Cato told me you had
+had fine rains last night; and I was so pleased to hear it,
+that​—​that​—​I actually gave the black rascal a quarter-dollar for
+his information. “Here, John! go and call that fellow back,”
+turning to a domestic, “and tell him to make haste​—​do you hear?”
+In the course of a short time Cato returned, rolling up his eyes
+until only the whites (or rather yellows) were visible, holding
+his little flannel cap in one hand, and in the other, what was
+once designated as a <i>pipe</i>, and uttering a mysterious noise,
+which was intended as half interrogative, half conciliatory,
+waited until his master,
+<a id="p195" class="pagenumber" title="Heavy shower."></a>
+who was puffing and blowing, and looking “unutterable
+things,” should speak.</p>
+
+<p>At length the storm burst​—​the torrent descended. “How dare you
+tell me such a story this morning, sirrah? How dare you, sir?
+answer me!” “War ’tory, massa,” inquired the self-convicted, but
+waggish negro, the left foot at the same time performing
+countless evolutions, and the flannel cap twirled round the thumb
+with increased velocity. “What story? you arrant rogue! why, the
+story you told me this morning about having fine rains in the
+country.” “Me no tell no ’tory, massa,” retorted the negro,
+determined to stand his master’s ire undaunted, and, like many
+other guilty ones, striving to have the last word. “Me no tell no
+’tory; war for me go tell ’tory? me no ’peak de trute.” “You
+speak the truth, indeed! Here’s the manager, who tells me there
+has been no rain at all, but, on the contrary, that my stock are
+all dying from want of water; and yet you dared to tell me you
+had fine rains last night.” “Yes, massa, and so we <i>hab fine
+rain</i>; me tell de trute. An more den dat, de rain <i>fine so</i>
+till​—​t-i-ll (prolonging the word) me hardly able to see him, he
+so fine!” Both owner and manager found it difficult to maintain
+their gravity at this definition of <i>fine rains</i>; while Cato,
+with a grin of self-congratulation at having so adroitly got
+himself out of a bad scrape; and grasping more firmly his
+quarter-dollar, which he imagined to be in some danger, set off
+for his own residence.</p>
+
+<p>“Hope deferred, maketh the heart sick;” and so indeed it was with
+us, when day after day passed, and still no appearance of rain.
+But One, who does not “willingly grieve the children of men,”
+remembered us in our great affliction, and when we least thought
+of it, sent us the needful blessing. I never saw such a fall of
+rain before; and many of the oldest inhabitants said the same
+thing. In about an hour from the time it first commenced, the
+streets were streaming with water; indeed, the one in which we
+reside looked more like a small river than anything else, for not
+a vestige of dry ground appeared.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p196" class="pagenumber" title="Earthquakes."></a>
+Report said two or three children were carried into the sea by
+the violence of the stream which rushed through the streets; but
+upon further inquiry, I found, as is generally the case, report
+did not speak truth. It originated from an old woman, seeing some
+chickens (which had been brought to market for sail, with their
+legs tied together) floating down the stream, when she exclaimed,
+“Eh! eh! look de fowl pic’nee;<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref67" href="#note67">67</a>]</sup> he sure he go get drowned!”
+This travelled, and lost nothing by its peregrinations, until at
+length it became magnified into the loss of several children.</p>
+
+<p>In a very short time, all the ponds and cisterns in the island,
+which for so long a time had been perfectly dry, were filled to
+overflowing, and care and distress gave way to joy and
+thankfulness.</p>
+
+<p>About June, July, and August, Antigua is liable to be visited by
+storms of thunder, and lightning, and earthquakes. The lightning
+in this part of the globe is very vivid; and the thunder bellows
+through the air in terrific peals, every hill and mountain
+reverberating the sound. Often have I seen the lightning playing
+down the spiral branches of the cocoa-nut trees, presenting a
+sublime but awful appearance.</p>
+
+<p>But although these storms are so violent, and consequently so
+harrowing to the feelings, they are nothing in comparison to the
+earthquakes with which we are sometimes visited. Every nerve is
+shaken by these terrible convulsions of nature; the very brute
+creation seem to feel their influence.</p>
+
+<p>In April, 1690, Antigua suffered very severely from this
+cause. Nearly the whole town of St. John’s was destroyed;
+and the sugar-works upon the various plantations in the
+country almost all overthrown. In many parts of the island,
+the solid earth was rent open; rocks were hurled from their
+places, and the very mountains defaced. The line of hills
+which skirts the harbour suffered from the concussion in a
+remarkable manner: one of them was rent completely in
+twain; and now, after the lapse of so many years, presents
+the appearance of two heights, with a deep dingle running
+<a id="p197" class="pagenumber" title="Conflagration."></a>
+between them. Soon after this awful occurrence, two
+comets made their appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The first time I felt an earthquake, I took it to be the approach
+of a heavy carriage; but by the increased, rumbling and tremour
+of the earth, was quickly undeceived. It was but a slight shock,
+however, and I began to think an earthquake was not so dreadful
+as my fancy had depicted it to be.</p>
+
+<p>It was reserved for the year 1833 to prove to me what an
+earthquake really was, and make me fully aware of its terrifying
+powers; and although nearly nine years have rolled by since that
+period, and consequently the remembrance of it has lost some part
+of its vividness, yet the occurrences of that night has left so
+deep an impression upon my mind, that it will never be wholly
+obliterated.</p>
+
+<p>Between eight and nine in the evening, a shock of an earthquake
+was felt; but as it did not continue long, no particular
+attention was paid to it. We had retired to-bed, and were in our
+first sleep, when we were suddenly awakened by that peculiar
+hollow noise which is always the forerunner of one of these
+convulsions. The noise became louder and louder; the earth heaved
+to and fro; the house shook from its very foundation; and books,
+glasses, and other light articles fell from their resting-places.
+This lasted with undiminished force: but a few minutes elapsed
+before another violent shock was felt. In the midst of this, the
+church-bell commenced ringing, and drums beating an alarm, while
+the whole face of the heavens, glowing with a fiery red, soon
+informed us that a conflagration augmented the horrors of the
+night.</p>
+
+<p>There were twenty-one distinct shocks felt between twelve at
+night and five in the morning, but the earth continued in a
+tremour for twenty-four hours afterwards. Thus it was we passed
+through that wearisome night; but when morning broke in the east,
+and the bright sun arose, and chased away the clouds of darkness,
+how many hearts swelled with gratitude towards Him who had so
+mercifully protected us through its dangers.</p>
+
+<p>The fire broke out at an estate called Otto’s, situated in
+<a id="p198" class="pagenumber" title="Dressing for the ball."></a>
+the
+suburbs of St. John’s. It was supposed by many to have been
+occasioned by a meteor striking a wooden building, which
+supposition acquires more credence from the following fact. An
+elderly female, of the name of Moore, who had acquired some
+notoriety from her preaching, both in England (particularly in
+Cateaton street, London) and the West Indies, was sitting up
+late, on the night in question, employed in writing her
+“Memoirs.” She mentions having seen a particular appearance in
+the heavens, which she described as looking like a bright scarf
+of fire gradually gliding down the sky in the direction of the
+estate, until, upon apparently gaining the earth, it vanished.</p>
+
+<p>The attorney of the above-mentioned estate also witnessed a
+similar phenomenon a few weeks afterwards. In this instance, the
+meteor descended upon the branch of a cocoa-nut tree, which grew
+near his house, and set it on fire; and had it not been for the
+courage and activity of a negro who was present, and who
+succeeded in felling the tree, great danger might have resulted
+from it.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the Leeward Islands suffered from earthquakes the same
+night; but at St. Kitts, (about sixty miles to the west of
+Antigua,) they appear to have felt them more severely than in the
+other islands. A ball was held that evening at the Court House,
+and the company were dressing for the occasion when the first
+shock was felt.</p>
+
+<p>Two young ladies, the daughters of a respectable merchant of
+Bassterre, (the capital of St. Kitts,) met with so great a
+fright, that they were obliged to forego paying their court to
+the “dancing muse.” The duties of the toilet were scarcely
+finished, when, as before observed, the earthquake commenced. In
+a moment the ceiling of the apartment was rent, and, as they
+supposed, a heavy fall of rain penetrated through the aperture,
+and extinguished the lights.</p>
+
+<p>The youngest of the ladies, terrified at the concussion, and not
+knowing the extent of their danger, threw herself upon the
+ground, calling loudly for help. The trembling domestics quickly
+came with a lamp, when, horror of horrors!
+<a id="p199" class="pagenumber" title="The ball-room."></a>
+they found the
+delicate white satin in which their young mistress was enrobed,
+completely saturated with <i>blood</i>! The other members of the
+family, alarmed by the screams of the servants, assembled in the
+room, and with eagerness inquired where the wound was. This was
+not to be discovered; and, accordingly, another elucidation of
+the mystery was sought for, and no long period elapsed before it
+was found. Their father, as before observed, was a merchant, and
+the attic over the room the young ladies occupied had been
+converted into a temporary wine-store. From the severe shock of
+the earthquake, a cask of port wine got staved; and what had the
+appearance of <i>blood</i>, was nothing less than its contents which
+so liberally bedewed the ball-dress of the fair sufferer.</p>
+
+<p>But the first shock did not intimidate many, however, and
+consequently the ball-room was crowded with visitants. “Nods and
+becks, and wreathed smiles,” flew around; innumerable lamps
+illumined the room, but their blaze was eclipsed by the radiance
+emitted from the dark brilliant eyes of the Houris, who, on the
+“light fantastic toe,” glided through the mazes of a quadrille.
+All was joy fulness, and every heart responded to the genial
+influence of the scene, when another shock more violent, and of
+longer continuance, converted this feeling of pleasure into the
+opposite one of woe. Instead of the lively scene described, all
+was now tumult and distress. Some of the ladies fainted, others
+threw themselves upon their knees, while the greater number
+rushed out of the apartment, which now looked hateful to them,
+and hastened to the beach.</p>
+
+<p>Shock followed shock in rapid succession, and the poor
+“Kittefonians” thought their little island was doomed to
+destruction. Nor was it from the quaking of the earth that all
+their terror proceeded; the sea rose so high, and the waves
+rolled in such a tumultuous manner, that an inundation was
+feared. In such a situation the inhabitants were almost paralyzed
+with fear; some went on board the different ships in the harbour,
+while others remained all night upon the beach, exposed to the
+“pitiless pelting” of the storm.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p200" class="pagenumber" title="Hurricanes."></a>
+I chanced to visit St. Kitts a short time after this awful
+occurrence. The inhabitants were still trembling from
+apprehension; and upon the slightest motion of the floor, the
+colour fled from the lips of many of the fair sex, and left them
+of a pallid white. I was present, upon one occasion, when a
+gentleman requested a young lady to favour him with a song. “Oh,
+no, sir! you must excuse me,” said she, lengthening her very
+pretty face, and throwing an air of gravity into her countenance;
+“we never sing since the earthquake.” If no other good was
+effected, it had the power of alienating her mind (for a season
+at least) from some of the vanities of the world, if a simple
+song can be called one.</p>
+
+<p>Another dreadful visitation of elementary strife, to which
+Antigua, as well as the other West Indian islands, is liable in
+the months of August, September, and October, are the hurricanes,
+or <i>tornadoes</i>. When they come, they are armed with every
+terror​—​rain, thunder, lightning, and sometimes earthquakes,
+attend their progress. The sea feels their influence, and, by its
+swelling and roaring, expresses it—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“The waves behind impel the waves before,<br/>
+    Wide-rolling, foaming high, they tumble to the shore.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The years 1670, 1681, 1707, 1740, 1772, 1780, and 1792, are those
+in which the severest hurricanes have occurred at Antigua. The
+hurricane of 1670 was most memorable. It raged with intense
+severity for four hours, and in that short space of time
+destroyed the new town of St. John’s, which had been rebuilt
+since the French invasion, and levelled almost every house with
+the ground. The ships lost in the harbour were the “Robert,” of
+Ireland, William Cocks, master; the “Merchants’ Adventure,” of
+the same place; the “Margaret Pink,” from Tangiers, and another
+large ship called the “Five Islands,” besides several smaller
+vessels which had come there for shelter. A wreck was also driven
+ashore, in which was found the corpse of a boy, some palm oil,
+and elephants’ teeth, supposed to be from Guinea. That of 1707
+was also very severe, being considered one of the most violent
+ever experienced in the Leeward West India Islands,
+<a id="p201" class="pagenumber" title="Devastations."></a>
+although Antigua suffered more than any of the neighbouring
+colonies. It blew down houses and entire sugar-works,
+tore up the largest trees by the roots, and devastated whole
+fields of sugar-canes; indeed, so tremendous was the hurricane,
+that it caused an almost general destruction. The
+oldest inhabitants of the present day unite, however, in saying
+that they never experienced one so awful as that of 1835.</p>
+
+<p>About four in the afternoon it commenced to look very wild,
+although the wind was moderate; the sky was of a deep saffron
+colour, and the sun shone with a fiery red. Between five and six
+in the evening the wind rose, and continued increasing until
+about seven, when the havoc began.</p>
+
+<p>Houses were levelled in an instant with the ground; many of the
+small dwellings were completely lifted from off their slight
+foundations, and carried by the wind to some distance. One old
+woman in particular had a narrow escape of her life. The house in
+which she resided was raised about five feet from the ground by
+the violence of the wind, hurried along with the greatest
+velocity for about the space of twenty feet across the road, and
+then placed in what was once a pond. Luckily, however, for the
+good old dame, the pond had been filled up, or, in all
+probability, her aerial flight would have finished her course of
+existence in this transitory sphere.</p>
+
+<p>The hurricane raged with unabated force until a little before
+nine, tearing up large trees by the roots, and snapping asunder
+others as if they had been twigs; when, suddenly, in a moment,
+the wind dropped. Not a sound was to be heard​—​not a single breeze
+was abroad: A deep, solemn silence reigned around​—​a silence which
+harrowed up every feeling of the soul, for it spoke of dire
+mishaps.</p>
+
+<p>This continued for some time, when again the wind returned with
+redoubled fury, as if its strength was recruited by the short
+respite it had gained, and shook the very earth. The hurricane
+raged until the sun got up, and then slowly and sullenly it sank
+to rest; until towards evening, nothing was to be heard but its
+sobs and sighs.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p202" class="pagenumber" title="Description of St. John’s."></a>
+A great many small vessels belonging to Antigua were sunk during
+the gale, and many poor mortals that night found—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Their death in the rushing blast,<br/>
+             Their grave in the yawning sea.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note66" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref66">66</a>] Although in Antigua the tide does not ebb and flow more than
+from six to twelve inches in ordinary instances.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note67" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref67">67</a>] “Pic’nee” is the negro term for children.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch18" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Description of the town of St. John’s, the capital of
+Antigua​—​Situation​—​Arrangement of the
+streets​—​Hucksters​—​Houses​—​Springs​—​Small
+shops​—​Stores of the retail
+dealers​—​Grog-shops​—​Merchants’ stores and lumber
+yards​—​Definition of lumber​—​Auction
+sales​—​Scotch Row and Scotchmen​—​Incongruous display of
+goods​—​Fire in 1797​—​Ruins​—​Fire in
+1841​—​Its devastations.</p>
+
+<p class="init">St. John’s, the capital of Antigua, is situated on the west side
+of the island, and contains about 979 houses. It is built upon a
+slight declivity, and commands a beautiful view of the harbour,
+which is one of the prettiest in the West Indies.</p>
+
+<p>The town, which is well arranged, covers a space of about 150
+acres of land; most of the streets are wide and well-kept, and
+intersect each other at right angles​—​the principal ones running
+in a straight line down to the sea. There is one peculiarity
+attending the construction of these streets, which is, that there
+are no causeways; and consequently, the pedestrian traveller has
+to elbow his way amid trucks and handbarrows, gigs, carriages,
+and horsemen, droves of cattle, or cargoes of mules, just landed
+from other countries, cattle-carts, or moving houses.</p>
+
+<p>At the corners of the different streets are seated hucksters,
+(black or coloured women;)<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref68" href="#note68">68</a>]</sup> some with their shallow trays,
+containing cakes of all descriptions, parched ground nuts, (the
+<i xml:lang="zxx-x-taxon">arachis hypogœa</i>,) sugar-cakes, and other confections, and
+varieties of fruits and vegetables; others have piles of cottons,
+coloured calicoes, bright-tinted handkerchiefs, &amp;c.,
+<a id="p203" class="pagenumber" title="Houses."></a>
+placed by
+them, or carefully spread along the sides of the most frequented
+streets, to attract the eye of the passer-by. As most of the
+Antiguan houses are raised a few feet from the ground, which
+necessarily requires the use of a step or two, the hucksters are
+very fond of monopolizing such appurtenances; and it is no
+uncommon thing to be obliged to wait until they remove their
+different wares, before you can enter the house, or else take the
+chance of breaking your neck over heaps of potatoes, or come in
+closer contact than is advisable with bottles of ginger-drink, or
+pots and pans of gorgeous colours, from the well-known English
+potteries.</p>
+
+<p>The houses are generally built of wood, painted of a white or
+light stone colour, with bright green <i>jalousies</i>, or glass
+windows and green Venetian blinds. The greater number have
+covered galleries running along the sides or fronts of them, in
+which the good people love to assemble in the cool of evening,
+and while away the hours in converse sweet, or scan over the
+island newspapers​—​two of which issue weekly from respective
+presses, to enlighten the worthy inhabitants as to what is
+passing in their little colony.</p>
+
+<p>Some of these dwellings are very commodious, and make a good
+appearance, particularly when shaded by a few beautiful trees, or
+standing, as many of them do, in a small garden, embellished with
+Flora’s splendid children. But as for following any of the <i>five
+orders</i> in their architectural adornments, that is quite out of
+the question; or at least, it is an order of their own invention
+they prefer, and which may be called the Antiguan.</p>
+
+<p>Within these last few years, a few houses have been erected, with
+low roofs and parapet walls; the usual plan is to have that
+necessary part of the dwelling raised in the fashion of an
+English barn, or an Egyptian pyramid. One peculiarity which
+strikes the eye of a stranger in these dwellings, is the absence
+of chimneys​—​the kitchens being, in most instances, detached from
+the house; and the heat of the climate, as a matter of course,
+renders all grates or stoves, and their accompanying flues,
+unnecessary.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p204" class="pagenumber" title="Small shops."></a>
+Since the serious droughts in 1833, springs or wells have been
+dug in various parts of the town, which, although the water is
+brackish, are of great use for many domestic purposes,
+particularly to the lower classes, who do not possess a cistern.
+These springs have been lately modified by having water-engines
+attached to them, and enclosed by a low wall and wooden
+palisadings, painted of a bright sky-colour. Methinks, however,
+that Master Sol will soon spoil their flaunting beauty. It is a
+pity the directors of these improvements did not choose green
+instead of the other colour; for, from the whiteness of the
+streets, and the extreme glare of the sunbeams, we require
+something to relieve and cool the eye; and much as we admire the
+lovely tint of the heavens, light blue palings do not equally
+fascinate our gaze.</p>
+
+<p>In different parts of the town are numbers of small shops, of
+about six or eight feet square, in which varieties of trades are
+carried on. In one may be seen a cobbler​—​no! I beg their
+pardon​—​a <i>cordwainer</i>; himself shoeless, busily employed in
+forming, from his not very fragrant materials, a pair of creaking
+high-heeled boots, for the use of some black exquisite. A bunch
+of human hair attached to the end of a long stick, and moving
+with every breeze, bespeaks the abode of a barber and
+hair-dresser; while a multiplicity of shreds of cloth,
+half-finished vests, a goose, and other <i lang="la">et ceteras</i>, with a
+group of mortals seated <i lang="fr">à la Turque</i>, proves beyond doubt that
+the inmates are of that particular class of beings, nine
+individuals of which are required to form one ordinary man.
+Others, again, of the receptacles of trade, are stocked with
+provisions, such as small quantities of salt pork, corn, flour,
+candles, butter, (of the consistence of honey,) a few dried peas,
+or horse-beans, and any other little matters; while some contain
+<i>dry goods</i>, as it is customary, in this island, to term all
+articles of drapery. Small as these tenements are, many of them
+are divided by a lathed partition, forming on one side a
+butcher’s shamble, where an array of sheep’s heads, miserable
+specimens of legs of mutton, and saffron-coloured
+<a id="p205" class="pagenumber" title="Stores of the retail dealers."></a>
+pork, may be met with, which, carnivorous as it
+must be allowed we all are, few like their eyes to dwell
+upon; while, on the other side, gown-pieces, and “blue
+checks,” with other “odds and ends,” claim the frequenters’
+attention.</p>
+
+<p>Next to these small shops, come the stores of the retail
+provision dealers, which are upon a larger scale, and of course
+better supplied with goods. Then there are the <i>grog shops</i>, as
+they are termed, where to the heterogeneous mass of eatables,
+crockery, and tin-ware, is added the more exciting articles of
+brandy, rum, gin, porter, wine, &amp;c.; and where of an evening,
+amid fumes of every description, (from Yanky cheese to Virginia
+tobacco,) and dim smoky oil lamps, parties of soldiers, sailors,
+dingy-looking blacks, and unfortunate females​—​ay! and men of
+better rank of life, who ought to blush to be found in such
+places​—​love to congregate, and barter health and money, for dirty
+goblets of those fiery liquids.</p>
+
+<p>When passing, in an evening, these <i>store-houses for crime</i>, they
+forcibly bring to my mind thoughts of Pandemonium. The dusky
+lamps, at one moment sending forth their long flaming tongues,
+the next, only serving to make darkness visible; the crowds of
+negroes, with their gleaming eyes and glittering teeth,
+presenting the appearance of so many attending demons; the groups
+of white soldiers or sailors, looking more pallid in the
+flickering lamp-light, and greedily quaffing the deleterious
+fluid, which, sooner or later, preys upon their very vitals​—​and
+then the various sounds of cursing and quarrelling, idiotic
+laughter, discordant singing, and incoherent talking, as the
+miserable frequenters arrive at the different stages of
+intoxication,​—​conspire to render it more like a council-chamber
+of tormented spirits, than the self-chosen place of amusement of
+rational creatures.</p>
+
+<p>The next grade of these places of merchandise are, the
+merchants’ stores or warehouses, with their attached lumber-yards.
+These are, in most instances, large, dismal-looking
+buildings, whose unwashed rafters afford safe protection to
+<a id="p206" class="pagenumber" title="Merchants."></a>
+innumerable spiders of every size, or present a desirable spot
+for the freemasons (the ichneumon bee) to erect their clayey
+dwellings upon. One corner of these vast emporiums is
+latticed off, forming a counting-house, decorated with a coat
+of white, green, or yellow paint, and shewing its chequers of
+red tape, for the purpose of sticking orders, letters, or bank-notices
+for payments, due at the Colonial or West India Bank.
+Here, on a high-legged stool, of dingy look, sits the merchant,
+dressed in his round, white jacket, snowy pantaloons, Panama
+or Paget hat; and, with pen in hand, and a pinch of <i>Lundy-foot</i>
+between his fingers, (to assist his ideas, I suppose,) calculates
+the probabilities of his <i>’specs</i>, which in other days
+afforded such golden harvests as to give rise to the belief,
+that the streets in the West Indies were paved with
+doubloons and dollars.</p>
+
+<p>But let it not be imagined that this worthy and numerous class
+employ all their business-hours in calculating their gains and
+losses, poring over the leaves of a dusty ledger, or puzzling
+their brains over their “bank accounts.” Oh! no, no​—​the Antiguan
+merchants are far too wise for that​—​many a bowl of “pepper-punch”
+is brewed; many a long cork of approved brand is drawn, and the
+“rosy red” <i lang="fr">Vin de Bordeaux</i> is poured into the tendered crystal;
+and many a bottle of champagne, or “Tennent’s pale ale,” is
+unwired, uncorked, and its creamy excellence effused for them.
+Nor is the tongue idle; well-seasoned jests and brilliant
+repartees abound; news is discussed, wit flies like arrows, and
+many a rosy face grows more roseate, and many a laughing eye
+becomes dewy before they part.</p>
+
+<p>But I must say something more about the stores​—​what a scene of
+confusion they present to the unaccustomed eye!​—​what varied and
+multiplied articles do they display! In one part are hogsheads of
+salt cod, herrings, and other salted fish; bins of Indian corn,
+rice, peas, and salt; flour, tobacco, barrels of blacking, and
+kegs of lard. In another part may be found barrels of beef and
+mess-pork; hogsheads of prime Cumberland hams, kits of ox
+tongues, and barrels of biscuits;
+<a id="p207" class="pagenumber" title="Merchants’ stores."></a>
+sparkling Moselle, hock,
+seltzer-water, and lamp-oil; preserved meats and soups, and kegs
+of crackers; pitch, tar, rosin, and oats; block-tin tureens,
+spirits of turpentine, and Cognac brandy; crates of earthenware,
+rose nails, and hogsheads of tin-ware; with London pickles,
+agricultural implements, and hair-brooms. On another side of the
+store lie huddled together hogsheads of Barclay’s brown stout,
+boxes of soap, bundles of wood-hoops, and cases of gilded
+cornices; boxes of raisins and currants, paving flags, and masts
+and oars; firkins of Cork butter, hogsheads of lime, and patent
+corkscrews; Hyson teas, Durham mustard, loaf-sugar, and Havannah
+cigars; potatoes, onions, Bologna sausage, and blacksmiths’
+coals; artificers’ tools, anti-corrosion paint, currycombs, and
+<i>gold watches</i>; the whole wound up with Rowland’s Macassar oil,
+floating soap, and quack medicines, consisting of Morrison’s
+pills, and Swain’s Panacea, which, if we believe the labels, are
+to cure every ill “that flesh is heir to;” while from the ceiling
+dangle in graceful negligence, coils of rope, and horses’
+halters.</p>
+
+<p>To prove to any of my readers who may be sceptical of the truth
+of such a <i>various</i> assemblage of goods, as I have stated the
+merchant’s stores contain, I will give a <i>correct copy</i> of a
+cargo handed about to the different merchants, as brought by an
+American vessel arrived to-day:—</p>
+<p class="cent"><small>CARGO ON BOARD BRIG “RANDOLPH,” FROM PHILADELPHIA.</small></p>
+
+<table id="cargo-brig">
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+ <td align="right"><small>12</small></td>
+ <td><small> barrels pitch</small></td>
+ <td align="right"><small>1</small></td>
+ <td><small> box fine beaver hats</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td align="right"><small>118</small></td>
+ <td><small> covered hams</small></td>
+ <td align="right"><small>100</small></td>
+ <td><small> boxes cheese</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>2</small></td>
+<td><small> casks of shoulders</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>3</small></td>
+<td><small> doz. Windsor chairs</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>30</small></td>
+<td><small> barrels pilot bread</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>16</small></td>
+<td><small> nurses’ rocking chairs</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>10</small></td>
+<td><small> do. navy do.</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>8</small></td>
+<td><small> ladies’ cane do.</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>30-</small></td>
+<td><small>3 do. sugar biscuits</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>1</small></td>
+<td><small> doz. children’s do.</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>20-</small></td>
+<td><small>3 do. soda</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>49</small></td>
+<td><small> barrels potatoes</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>20-</small></td>
+<td><small>3 crackers</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>18¼</small></td>
+<td><small> gross lucifer matches</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>50</small></td>
+<td><small> kegs lard</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>1</small></td>
+<td><small> mahogany spring-seat sofa</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>30</small></td>
+<td><small> blls. mess pork</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>1</small></td>
+<td><small> do. wash-stand, marble top</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>100</small></td>
+<td><small> kegs butter</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>3</small></td>
+<td><small> boxes stationery</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>13</small></td>
+<td><small> boxes lump tobacco</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>4</small></td>
+<td><small> backgammon boards</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>20</small></td>
+<td><small> do. champagne cider</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>12</small></td>
+<td><small> bridles</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>20</small></td>
+<td><small> doz. buckets</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>22½</small></td>
+<td><small> doz. black ink in boxes</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>50</small></td>
+<td><small> boxes soap, 24 lbs.</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>1</small></td>
+<td><small> mahogany spring-seat, rocking chair</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>700</small></td>
+<td><small>   do.       16 lbs.</small></td>
+<td align="right"><small>2</small></td>
+<td><small> wooden arm chairs</small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td align="right"><small>50</small></td>
+<td><small> do. mould candles </small></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><small>17</small></td>
+<td><small> do.    do. </small></td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cent">Offers in cash, or negotiable notes, 1 o’clock.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p208" class="pagenumber" title="Lumber yards."></a>
+From the store we will take a walk into the lumber yard. But
+before I proceed to describe it, it will be necessary for me to
+make another digression, and let those of my readers who may be
+yet ignorant of the real meaning of the term know what “lumber”
+is. Upon my first acquaintance with West Indians, I was
+particularly surprised to hear them talk so much about <i>lumber</i>,
+and of Mr. This and Mr. That dealing in such commodity. As my
+mind has ever been apt to roam far and wide, I no sooner heard
+the merits of this peculiar article (if I may so call it)
+discussed, than my schooldays’ tasks presented themselves to my
+recollection, and I mentally murmured with Dr. Johnson, “lum-ber,
+lumber, old useless furniture.”</p>
+
+<p>Having arrived at this definition, again I fancied myself amid
+broken chairs and tables, sofas minus a leg, shattered
+looking-glasses, musty, dusty, rusty, grates, antique bottles,
+and similar chattels, where in one of my hoyden days I had
+scrambled to look for a bird-cage in which to imprison a poor
+half-fledged skylark, captured for me by a little ragged
+<i lang="fr">protégé</i> of mine, known by the true English name of “Bill.”</p>
+
+<p>Yet still I was not satisfied; for what, thought I, can West
+Indian merchants find so particularly valuable in all these
+divers specimens of mutilation, as to induce them to deal so
+largely in them? I could only answer mine own query by exclaiming
+“’tis strange! ’tis passing strange!” Time wore on, however, and
+I arrived at Antigua; then my wonder soon ceased, and I found out
+that in fact a <i>lumber merchant</i> signifies nothing less than a
+dealer in <i>timber</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Having endeavoured to give the Antiguan definition of lumber, I
+will now proceed to describe “the yard.” It is generally entered
+by passing through the store, at the hazard of putting your foot
+into pools of rosin or varnish, slipping over stray peas, or
+half-breaking your neck over heaps of brickbats. At length the
+yard is gained, and drawing a long breath, as much from heat as
+exercise, I look around. On each side of the door are huge stacks
+of staves, piled up in a very uniform manner, used for making
+hogsheads or
+<a id="p209" class="pagenumber" title="Auction sales."></a>
+tierces for packing sugar, or puncheons for the conveyance
+of rum. In other parts of the yard are bundles of cypress
+or cedar shingles,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref69" href="#note69">69</a>]</sup> white and pitch pine boards, planks and
+scantlings, all packed in appropriate order; that is, when
+they are not landing cargoes, and the master has an eye to
+tidy appearances; but if this is not the case, the different
+species of lumber are tumbling about in all directions.</p>
+
+<p>Then there are large sheds erected in various parts of the yard,
+for the purpose of securing “hard-wood” (as mahogany,
+mill-timber, &amp;c.) from the effects of the weather. There is also
+very generally a pigeon-house or two to be met with, and their
+pretty inmates may be seen gliding about, picking up the
+scattered grain, or, perched upon one of the lumber stacks, watch
+your every movement with their bright round eyes, while their
+variegated breasts glitter in the sun-beams like so many gems. At
+the bottom of the yard large gates open to the sea, furnished
+with a huge crane; and here it is that all those incongruous
+articles which fill their stores, and bring wealth to their
+coffers, are landed.</p>
+
+<p>When the merchants are visited by certain fears and twitchings,
+relative to the fact of their not being able to dispose of their
+diversified merchandise, they “call an auction;” and under the
+auspices of the red flag,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref70" href="#note70">70</a>]</sup> and with the assistance of the
+auctioneer’s lungs and hammer, instead of harlequin’s magic wand,
+turn all these “creature’s comforts” into pounds, shillings, and
+pence.</p>
+
+<p>In some parts of the town are auction rooms, where, with the same
+laudable zeal for “charming variety,” things as distinct from
+each other as the nadir is from the zenith, are put up, the
+mysterious words “going, going, <i>gone</i>” uttered, and finally
+knocked down to the attendants​—​whites, blacks, and coloured.</p>
+
+<p>Having mentioned the stores of those philanthropists, who,
+for the mere consideration of a little dirty <i lang="enm">pelf</i>, undertake to
+provide so liberally for the inner man, it will be necessary
+<a id="p210" class="pagenumber" title="Scotch Row."></a>
+to take a look at those temples of fashion, fancy, and fascination,
+commonly known in this island as “Scotch shops,”
+or in other words, Antiguan haberdashery stores.</p>
+
+<p>In a particular part of St. John’s, running north and south, lies
+a well-made broad street, which, from being inhabited principally
+by Scotchmen, is known by the appropriated name of “Scotch Row.”
+Capital stores (when I <i>am</i> at Rome, I like to do as Rome does,
+and give everything its approved title) flank each side of the
+street, and display their glittering wares to the admiration of
+passers-by; and from whence (with but few exceptions) emanate
+those dresses and ribbons of a thousand dyes, with which the
+<i>fair sex</i> of <i>every colour</i> delight to enrobe their lovely
+forms.</p>
+
+<p>Here, as in the merchants’ stores, may be found articles of the
+most opposite natures. In one part lies a delicate white satin
+bonnet, with its bunches of “orange flowers,” to grace the head
+of some blushing bride, or decorated with the snowy plumes torn
+by the swarthy African from some swift-footed ostrich; while by
+its side reposes a broken ewer, or an iron pot.</p>
+
+<p>You may, in truth, buy anything and everything in these “Scotch
+shops,” from three farthings’ worth of tape to the most costly
+articles. Dresses of all kinds; ribbons, laces, flowers, and
+bonnets; coats, vests, pantaloons, umbrellas, and shoes; blondes,
+scarfs, mantelets, perfumery, and <i>tenpenny nails</i>; paint,
+frying-pans, and carpets; jewellery of every description,
+dripping-pans, and Seidlitz powders; Epsom salts, ginger-beer,
+and white lead; horses’ halters, cherry-tree chairs, and
+preserved fruits; children’s dresses, lanterns, horse-whips, and
+coffee; sugar-loaves, saddles, bonnet-shapes, and white-handled
+knives; ladies’ corsets, Valenciennes edging, and Westphalia
+hams; pigs’ tongues, truckle cheese, and bird-seed; dish-covers,
+bottle-baskets, hooks-and-eyes, and brimstone; harness, cattle
+medicines, and lozenges; “Mechian” razor strops, and Metcalf’s
+toothbrushes; with brandy, champagne, Madeira, sherry, port,
+<a id="p211" class="pagenumber" title="Incongruous display of goods."></a>
+sauterne, Rhenish wines, bottled stout, pale ale, glasses to
+drink all these good articles out of, and I know not what
+besides. Loaves of sugar dangling by the side of zephyr scarfs,
+or candle-boxes <i lang="fr">vis-à-vis</i> with ostrich feathers.</p>
+
+<p>Oh! ye tradesmen of Regent-street, so polite and perfumed, and
+such <i>calibre</i>, who stand behind your glossy counters with the
+air of “my lord duke,” or glide with noiseless steps and mincing
+airs over your Persian carpeted floor,​—​what, <i>what</i> would you
+think of our Antiguan shops? Or how would those over-fashionable
+gentlemen at Storr and Mortimer’s be astounded, when tendering
+for approval to “beauty bright” those costly gems which carry us
+back to the days of the Arabian nights, if they came in contact
+with a brass kettle or an iron pot!</p>
+
+<p>I often wonder how the pale-faced, straight-haired clerks (for
+they are not termed <i>shopmen</i> in this part of the world) manage
+to get on among such a multiplicity of dissimilar articles; or
+that from being asked for so many contrary goods during the day,
+they do not make many and greater mistakes. A lady drives up in
+her carriage to the door of one of these labyrinthan <i lang="fr">depôts</i> of
+vanity, and in that “low soft voice so sweet in woman,” asks to
+be shewn some orange flower chaplets, and essence of
+<i>Frangipanier</i>. The poor clerk, his brains turning round like a
+revolving light, flies to obey her commands; but lo! in his hurry
+and confusion, he catches up a <i>frying-pan</i>, and with streaming
+brow, presents the inelegant article to the lady’s astounded and
+horrified gaze, instead of the delicate perfume.</p>
+
+<p>The master of these gay and changeful stores, is as diversiformed
+as his goods are various. In the morning he stands behind his
+counter, and “bows to” and “ma’am’s” any black member of the
+<i lang="fr">canaille</i> that condescends to purchase a few yards of
+“half-a-bit” (2<i class="currency">d.</i> sterling) ribbon to sandal her mill-post
+ankle; while in the evening, in all the glories of white
+pantaloons, new coat, smart buttons and embroidered stock, he
+figures away at an aristocratic dinner party.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p212" class="pagenumber" title="Scotchmen."></a>
+Times are indeed altered with these Scotchmen. In former years,
+when Sawney left his mountain home, his trouty lochs, and oaten
+bannocks, for the hot suns and debilitating climate of these
+“Isles of the West;” he did it for the sake alone of <i>siller</i>. As
+to ambition​—​faugh! he hated the very name, or else, like the cock
+in Esop’s fable, he spurned the glittering bauble, of which he
+knew not the worth. They plodded on from year to year, increased
+their stock of goods, and added many a round dollar to their
+worldly wealth, and then sat down contentedly to enjoy the smoky
+flavour of their usquebaugh, forming no greater acquaintance with
+the governor, than as they saw him proceed to the court-house in
+discharge of his high office, or knowing no more of
+government-house than the outer appearance.</p>
+
+<p>But the Scotchmen of the present day scorn the lowly ideas of
+their predecessors. They ape the man of fashion, call their
+haberdashery store a merchant’s warehouse, and foregoing the
+vulgar title of draper, take to themselves the loftier name of
+<i>merchant</i>. Nor is this all. They attend the governor’s <i>levees</i>,
+play the amiable at a quadrille party, frequent the billiard
+table, or perchance take wine with his excellency, and grin and
+bow with approved precision. Their shops prove an agreeable
+morning lounge for the superiors of the island, and in a glass of
+<i>sangaree</i>, or a flowing bowl of <i>pepper-punch</i>, the difference
+of grade between the entertainer and the entertained is
+overlooked.</p>
+
+<p>That “there is no rule without an exception,” is a true
+apophthegm; and among the many emigrants from the “land o’
+cakes,” some very respectable individuals are to be met with.</p>
+
+<p>I believe it a correct statement to assert, that “Scotch Row”
+begins with one of this superior class, and ends with him who has
+been called “The father of the Scotchmen,” not from his age, but
+from his high conduct.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. H——— is a man in whom great urbanity is blended
+with strong determination of character. He possesses varied
+<a id="p213" class="pagenumber" title="Appropriate names of streets."></a>
+talents, and is no mean disciple of St. Cecilia’s; and
+although, perhaps, not altogether ranking among the <i lang="la">literati</i>
+in the fuller sense of that term, yet he</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“——laughing can instruct Much has he read,<br/>
+    Much more has seen: he studied from the life,<br/>
+    And in the original perused mankind.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Philosophy to him, however, is no gloomy subject; no solemn
+stalking about wrapt up in his own stately ideas, and scorning,
+with cynic’s eye, any harmless mirth. In the words of one of
+Britain’s poets, I may say of him—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“——nor purpose gay,<br/>
+    Amusement, dance or song, he sternly scorns.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Nature seems to have intended him for a higher occupation, than
+to stand behind a counter and sell a few yards of tape, or a
+paper of pins.</p>
+
+<p>The streets of the capital have all their proper appellations,
+although no painted board announces such a fact to the traveller.
+The east and west streets, beginning southerly, are​—​South-street,
+Tanner, Nevis, Ratcliff, St. Mary’s, High, Long, Church, Newgate,
+Wapping, North, Bishopsgate, St. John’s, St. George’s; north and
+south streets, beginning easterly, are​—​East-street, Cross,
+Church-lane, Temple, Steeple-street, Corn, Market,
+Friendly-alley, Gutter-lane, Newgate-lane, Popeshead, Thames,
+Coney-Warren-lane, Subscription-alley, Craw-lane,
+Wilkinson’s-street, and Mariner’s-lane. Some of these lanes and
+alleys are famous for their <i>grog-shops</i>, particularly that
+establishment known by the appropriate name of “The
+Hole-in-the-Wall,” for the only entrance is a low arched door-way
+scooped out of its massy walls.</p>
+
+<p>One part of the town bears the somewhat lofty title of
+“The Parade.” In former years it answered as a kind of
+exchange, where the merchants congregated together during
+“’Change hours,” and discussed the business of the commercial
+world. Cargoes of all descriptions were here disposed
+<a id="p214" class="pagenumber" title="Coal pots."></a>
+of; dollars and doubloons in one moment changed owners,
+and human flesh and blood was openly bartered. For a long
+period, however, the Parade visibly declined in importance,
+and became but the shadow of itself; but within these last
+few years, it has, phœnix like, sprung up with renewed
+vigour, and presents to the passenger’s eye many good and
+bustling stores.</p>
+
+<p>St. John’s has, at various times, suffered severely from
+conflagrations​—​a circumstance not to be wondered at, when we
+consider the great number of wooden buildings, and the
+carelessness of persons in throwing about particles of fire. In
+1769, an accident of this nature occurred, which was most direful
+in its consequence. It arose from the negligence of a woman who
+was employed in ironing, and who omitted to extinguish the fire
+in a coal-pot, after finishing her labours.</p>
+
+<p>It may be necessary, perhaps, for the comprehension of some of my
+readers who may not be conversant with West Indian domestic
+subjects, to mention more fully the construction of a coal-pot.
+In some of the islands these utensils are composed of clay,
+moulded into the form of buckets, and baked in a moderate fire;
+but the Antiguan coal-pot is nothing more nor less than a deal
+box, clamped with iron or tin, and lined with bricks plastered
+over. A few pieces of old iron hoop are placed horizontally
+across the box at stated intervals about halfway from the bottom,
+and upon these is placed a layer of charcoal. The irons are
+arranged upon the top, and the coals ignited; no bellows are
+used, except what Nature has afforded in the owners’ own lungs;
+or when their breath fails, and the fuel still proves refractory,
+their large straw hat is displaced from their heads, and
+brandished before the mouths of their little stoves, with sundry
+ejaculations of “Eh! eh! war do de co-als to-day, me b’lieve dem
+no want to burney.”</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the fire in 1769; it burnt with fearful
+rapidity. The gaol, custom-house, indeed nearly the whole
+town, fell a prey to the destructive element, 260 houses
+being levelled with the ground, and some of the finest stores
+<a id="p215" class="pagenumber" title="Fires."></a>
+and richest merchandise destroyed. Government granted
+1000<i class="currency">l.</i> for the relief of the sufferers; and their kind friends
+in Liverpool collected, during the following year, the sum of
+<!-- removed duplicate "of" from beginning of next line -->
+346<i class="currency">l.</i> 2<i class="currency">s.</i> 6<i class="currency">d.</i>, which was thankfully and gratefully received.</p>
+
+<p>Many other fires have occurred since then, the vestiges of which
+remain to this day; one in particular, known by the appropriate
+name of the burnt wall, is still pointed out to the notice of the
+stranger. Part of this land has been lately purchased by the
+Wesleyans, who have erected a small chapel upon it, which answers
+also for a school-room, and where preaching is held on Friday
+evenings.</p>
+
+<p>But the conflagration which happened on the 2nd April, 1841, has
+effaced the memory of all other events of the same nature. It
+broke out in the house of a person carrying on the business of a
+straw bonnet-maker, after the family had retired to rest, and it
+was only discovered in time for the inmates to make their escape
+by jumping from the upper windows.</p>
+
+<p>A few moments after it was first perceived, the walls fell, and
+the flames burst forth with a fearful rapidity, curling and
+twisting themselves in all directions; seizing upon every thing
+within their reach, and illuminating the heavens with their
+awfully grand lustre. The church bell tolled forth its solemn
+warning; drums beat an alarm; and, in the words of an old writer,
+when describing the fire in London in 1666, “dreadful screams
+disturbed the midnight quiet, and raised the affrighted people
+from their beds, who, scarce awake, all seemed to be a dream.
+Each one appeared but as a moving statue, as once Lot’s wife,
+viewing her flaming Sodom, was transformed into a pillar.”</p>
+
+<p>So saith “Samuel Wiseman,” and his graphic description answers
+equally for the fire of Antigua, as it did in yore, for that of
+London.</p>
+
+<p>House after house, store after store, fell beneath the
+raging element; or, when built of stone, only their bare and
+<a id="p216" class="pagenumber" title="Devastation caused by fire."></a>
+blackened walls were left standing. No sooner was one
+house on fire, than the flames were pouring into the windows
+of the next; scathing the trees as they passed, dismantling
+them of their verdure, and leaving them only a seared and
+withered trunk. Again the Custom House fell a victim,
+and to this cause many deficiencies in the statistical part of
+this work may be attributed; for, from the suddenness and
+violence of the fire, many valuable records were lost.</p>
+
+<p>Still the fiery deluge rolled on,​—​at one moment the sky was
+almost hidden by the dense masses of smoke; at another, bright
+spiral lines of flame shot up into the air, and cast a lurid
+light on all around. I am sorry to record it, but the negro-men
+behaved very ill, refusing to lend assistance, (in most
+instances,) but employing their time in plundering from the
+sufferers. To the glory of the women, be it spoken, <i>they</i> did
+not follow the example of their kinsmen, but cheerfully and
+firmly laboured through that awful night. The crew of two French
+ships of war, which chanced to be lying in the harbour, also
+assisted, aided by the sailors from the English and island
+vessels; and the gentlemen of the town, headed by the
+lieutenant-governor, Major McPhail, (who flew to the scene of
+danger stockingless and almost slipperless,) worked with
+undaunted courage and good-will; and by dint of energy, and
+pulling down several small houses, so as to make room for the
+flames in their gyral evolutions, at length succeeded in gaining
+the mastery over their formidable enemy.</p>
+
+<p>But, alas! when morning came, and threw a steady light
+upon the picture, what a melancholy sight was presented to
+the view. A long line of building, including the best and
+finest houses, entirely destroyed; lumber-yards and warehouses
+despoiled of their goods, and the very streets strewed
+ankle-deep with burnt salt-fish, peas, rice, flour, and similar
+articles! In some parts might be seen groups of negroes
+carousing around some gutted dwelling, tearing out the
+burning provisions, and, amid all this desolation and the
+mournful feelings of men, who, in one short night, had lost
+<a id="p217" class="pagenumber" title="Pecuniary estimate of loss."></a>
+that for which they had toiled for years, shouting forth
+from their stentorian lungs snatches of some bacchanalian
+song, or allowing their vacant heartless laugh to vibrate
+painfully upon the silent morning air.</p>
+
+<p>Ever and anon, the smouldering fire sent up some fitful glare; or
+a brilliant coruscation of sparks, shot forth from some still
+burning log of pitch-pine, gilded the surrounding scene with
+their beautiful but dangerous showers. The fire burnt down to the
+sea-side; seizing upon the very timber of the wharfs and cranes,
+and destroying them to the water’s edge. The amount of damage has
+been estimated at 250,000<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling; but the loss is more than
+can be calculated, for it has despoiled and depopulated one of
+the finest and busiest streets in the town, and which, from the
+depressed state of trade, will be long, very long, before it is
+again rebuilt.</p>
+
+<p>More than eight months have silently rolled by since that awful
+cry of “Fire” awoke the Antiguans from their tranquil slumbers,
+and sent a thrill of dismay through the hearts of all. And there
+stand the ruins, blackened and cracked by the intense heat which
+caused the very glass to pour down in streams, which, when
+congealed, appeared like icicles; or else, only shewing by the
+open space, where the ill-fated dwellings stood​—​where the voice
+of happy infancy once uttered many a jocund shout​—​or where the
+soft full tone of riper years carolled many a light and gladsome
+lay. Long grass and luxuriant weeds have already grown up in the
+spot once dedicated to business or pleasure, and the bat and the
+lizard have made it their own.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note68" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref68">68</a>] The whites, or Buckra’s, as they are called in the West
+Indies, however indigent in circumstances, pride prohibits them
+from engaging in such industrious pursuits.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note69" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref69">69</a>] Used for covering the tops of houses, as tiles or slates are
+in England.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note70" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref70">70</a>] A flag is always hoisted upon places where a sale is held.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch19" class="chapter">
+
+
+
+<h2><a id="p218" class="pagenumber" title="Church of St. John’s."></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Description of the church of St John’s​—​Period of
+its erection​—​Present site​—​Panoramic
+views​—​Form of structure​—​Length and
+breadth​—​Interior​—​Decorations​—​Monuments​—​Organ​—​Tower​—​Bells​—​Clock​—​Churchyard​—​Tombs
+and sepulchral inscriptions​—​An acrostic​—​“Adam and
+Eve!”</p>
+
+<p class="init">The first place of public worship erected in St. John’s was the
+parochial church, commenced in 1683-4. It was a small wooden
+building, standing about sixty yards further to the south than
+the present church; and, if we are to believe an old writer,
+totally destitute of beauty or comfort. During the administration
+of Gen. Walter Hamilton, it was found to be in such a dilapidated
+state, that in 1716 the necessity of erecting a new church was
+submitted to the legislature; and with the concurrence of the
+members of that body, an act was passed the same year, granting a
+provision for building a new place of worship, (to be dedicated
+to St. John,) and imposing a yearly tax for the purpose of
+keeping the said church in repair. It was not, however, until
+between the years 1721 and 1723, during the period that John Hart
+was administrating the government of these islands, that the
+erection of the church was commenced. Mr. Robert Cullen was the
+architect, and by his suggestions, its site was laid to the north
+of the old building; thus occupying the very spot where the
+militia were stationed in 1710, when ordered to fire upon
+Governor Park, in that unhappy difference between him and the
+country, and which ended so fatally to himself.</p>
+
+<p>The present parochial church is pleasantly situated upon
+an ascent, at the head of the town, and commands from
+every side a wide and beautiful view of the surrounding
+country. From the west door, the eye ranges over the
+bustling town, with its motley groups of passengers​—​dwells
+for a time upon the long line of ruined buildings destroyed
+by the fire already described​—​scans the lovely harbour,
+with its graceful shipping, the interesting bay of the Five
+Islands on the one side, and, on the other, a long line of
+<a id="p219" class="pagenumber" title="Form of structure."></a>
+cocoa-nut trees and brilliant sand, bespeaking the situation
+of Dickenson’s Bay​—​and then roves on to the offing, where
+a large extent of ocean of the sweetest blue stretches out;
+and where, perhaps, a far-off sail may be seen, which looks
+in the distance like the white wing of some passing gull.</p>
+
+<p>From the south door, another beautiful and panoramic view may be
+obtained, particularly towards the close of the day, when the sun
+has almost completed his daily journey, and, shorn of his fervent
+beams, throws on every cloud his myriad dyes. The part of the
+town then presented to the gaze of the beholder slopes by a
+gradual descent towards the suburbs, bounded by Otto’s Hill (an
+estate belonging to the representatives of Bastien Baijer) and
+the surrounding country. At the extent of the horizon runs a long
+range of mountains​—​the more distant ones presenting a greyish,
+gloomy colour, while others have their tops irradiated with a
+brilliant fringe of gold or purple, as the different clouds
+appear to rest upon them. Of this chain, the declivities of which
+afford every species of beauty, and every gradation of varying
+green, the lower ones are generally in a state of cultivation;
+and their undulating surface presents in some places groups of
+lovely trees, or breaks into patches of sugar-canes, clusters of
+negro-huts, and sugar-mills.</p>
+
+<p>The church itself, which is built of brick, washed of a light
+yellow, is cruciform; the north and south vestibules forming the
+arms of the cross. The extreme length, from the inner west door
+to the altar-piece, is 130 feet; and the breadth, exclusive of
+the vestibules, (or porches,) is 50 feet. In the interior,
+eighteen plain wooden pillars divide the nave from the north and
+south aisles; the sixteen lower ones forming the support to the
+north and south galleries. The roof of the nave is a semicircular
+vault, painted to represent the heavens, with all their drapery
+of light and fleecy clouds; and when viewed from the west door,
+has a very pretty effect.</p>
+
+<p>The chancel roof is of the same pitch, but of a pyramidal form;
+it is painted in the same manner as the nave, and is supported by
+four square fluted columns.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p220" class="pagenumber" title="Interior of the church."></a>
+The altar is very beautifully devised. In the centre are the
+tables of the ten commandments, gold-lettered upon a black
+ground. On each side are full-length paintings of Moses, and of
+Aaron, in his “holy garments.” That of Aaron is very finely
+executed; the face is such as we can imagine that of the great
+“high-priest” to have been, majestic, but beautiful; and the
+“robes,” the “breast-plate,” the “ephod,” the “curious girdle,”
+and the “golden censer,” are very correctly painted. The outer
+tables of “The Belief” and “Lord’s Prayer” are handsomely
+gilded​—​the inscription being executed in letters of black; and
+over the commandments, in the centre of the altar, is a medallion
+painting of cherubs. The several compartments are divided by
+gilded pilasters; the cornices, architraves, and friezes, are
+very pretty and tasteful; and in the inter-columniations are one
+or two triglyphs.</p>
+
+<p>The communion-table is covered with dark purple velvet, fringed
+deeply with gold; and on either end lie cushions to match. The
+communion-service plate is very handsome; the large salver,
+measuring eighteen inches in diameter, was presented to the
+church by John Otto Baijer, Esq., about the year 1724. It
+displays a representation of the “Lord’s Supper,” the figures in
+beautiful <i lang="it">basso-relievo</i>, and bears the following inscription:—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">Donum Domini Johannis Otto Baijer<br/>
+            Ad Templum Divi Johannis Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>The two smaller salvers and the cup are inscribed as follows:—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">In usum Templi Divi Johannis in Antigua<br/>
+       Gulielmus Jones Parochialis hujus olim Rector<br/>
+                       Donum Dedit.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the communion-plate, the table supports a pair of tall
+silver lamps, with ground-glass burners, bearing the inscription—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">Donum Domini Petre Lee ad Templum Divi<br/>
+                   Johannis in Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>And on each side of the table stand quaint-looking chairs,
+<a id="p221" class="pagenumber" title="Monuments."></a>
+for the accommodation of the bishop and archdeacon, which
+have been used for that purpose since the dismantling of the
+“Bishop’s Pew.”</p>
+
+<p>The pulpit and desk are of dark oak, as also the railings to the
+stairs; and, like the communion-table, have each their drapery
+and cushions of dark purple, with deep gold fringe and tassels,
+and the “I. H. S.” encircled with its golden rays. Formerly the
+pulpit, surmounted by a sounding-board, stood further down the
+nave; but after being removed once or twice, the desk has been
+separated from the pulpit, and they are placed at the entrance of
+the chancel, on each side the aisle.</p>
+
+<p>About the centre of the church is suspended a brass chandelier,
+consisting of ten branches, which have been lately fitted up with
+ground-glass burners; it was a gift (by will, 2nd May, 1740) to
+the church, from Phillip Darby, an old inhabitant of Antigua, and
+rector of St. John’s.</p>
+
+<p>At the entrance of the church from the north vestibule stands a
+small marble font, of a semi-spherical form, ornamented with four
+heads of cherubs, and supported by a corniform pedestal. It is
+intended to be placed at the extreme end of the middle aisle,
+immediately before the west entrance, and opposite the altar​—​a
+site far more applicable for it than where it now stands.</p>
+
+<p>The church is lighted by fourteen windows: six in the north
+aisle, six in the south aisle, and two in the east end of the
+building. Formerly they were all fitted up with <i>jalousies</i>; but
+within these last few years, the eight nearest the altar have
+been reglazed with ground glass, arranged in a Gothic pattern.
+These windows are divided into six compartments; and are so
+contrived, that, by aid of a turnscrew, they can be opened to a
+certain height. They certainly add to the <i>beauty</i> of the
+edifice, but deteriorate from its <i>comfort</i> by rendering it
+warmer than it otherwise would be: a circumstance not desirable
+in this fervid climate.</p>
+
+<p>Several fine monuments grace the walls of this sacred
+building; but the oldest sepulchral inscription is upon a
+<a id="p222" class="pagenumber" title="Inscription."></a>
+stone slab, in the chancel, to the memory of Mrs. Gilbert,
+wife of Mr. Gilbert, who introduced methodism<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref71" href="#note71">71</a>]</sup> in Antigua,
+and who died in 1747.</p>
+
+<p>In the south aisle are the following monuments:—</p>
+
+<p>An elegant mural monument of white marble upon a black ground,
+erected to the memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Ottley, wife of Richard
+Ottley, Esq., and daughter of Ashton Warner, speaker of the house
+of assembly in 1716. The ornamental part of this monument
+consists of the figure of a seraph with outspread wings, leaning
+upon a sepulchral urn, bearing a coronal of undying laurel leaves
+in its right hand; and in its left an inverted torch, partly
+extinguished, emblematical of the uncertainty of human life. The
+inscription is as follows:—</p>
+
+<p>“Near to this place is laid, with the remains of her honoured
+parents, the body of Elizabeth, the pious, amiable, and
+much-beloved wife of Richard Ottley; who departed this life, in
+the Island of St Vincent, on Thursday, 28th August, in the year
+of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and sixty-six, in the
+thirty-second year of her age.</p>
+
+<p>“She was the daughter of Ashton Warner, Esq.,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref72" href="#note72">72</a>]</sup>
+Attorney-General of Antigua, by Elizabeth, his wife, and was born
+the 7th June, 1735, O.S.; married 25th October, in the year 1753,
+and left issue surviving her, one son and three daughters​—​viz.,
+Drewry, Elizabeth, Mary Trant, and Alice.</p>
+
+<p>“She possessed a graceful person, an excellent understanding, and
+a sweetness of disposition that engaged the esteem of all that
+knew her, and performed with so much complacency the several
+duties in her family, and those of a good friend and neighbour,
+that it may be truly said she died universally lamented, and a
+real loss to that infant colony. Her inconsolable husband (in
+whose arms she expired, after bearing with admirable fortitude
+and resignation the excruciating pains of a long and difficult
+labour) caused this monument to be erected to her memory.</p>
+
+<p>“The son with whom she died reclines upon that breast which would
+have nourished him had the Almighty so permitted.”</p>
+
+<p>A very chaste and elegant white marble tablet, forming a
+Gothic arch, erected to the memory of the Honourable Sam.
+<a id="p223" class="pagenumber" title="Inscription to Otto Baijer."></a>
+Otto Baijer, a descendant of Bastien Baijer, who signed the
+capitulation in 1666, bearing the following inscription:—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">As a last mournful token of affection,<br/>
+                    This Tablet is erected by<br/>
+                   Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,<br/>
+              To the memory of her beloved Father,<br/>
+               The Honourable Samuel Otto Baijer,<br/>
+                Of Pares Estate, in this Island;<br/>
+                    Who died at Philadelphia<br/>
+                 On the 20th of December, 1835,<br/>
+                         Aged 54 years.</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">Also to the memory of her Mother,<br/>
+                   Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,<br/>
+                 Who died in 1813, at Dove Hall,<br/>
+                    In the Island of Jamaica,<br/>
+                  In the 27th year of her age.</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">Also to the memory of her Brother,<br/>
+                 Rowland Archibald Otto Baijer,<br/>
+                     Son of the above-named<br/>
+         Samuel Otto Baijer and Mary Elizabeth his Wife,<br/>
+            Who died at Pares Estate, in this Island,<br/>
+                 On the 24th of November, 1837,<br/>
+                   Aged 25 years and 8 months,<br/>
+            And whose remains repose near this spot.</p>
+
+<p>A small, unpretending marble tablet:—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">Sacred<br/>
+                        To the Memory of<br/>
+                     Elizabeth Jane Harman,<br/>
+             Who died on the 16th April, A.D. 1828,<br/>
+                         Aged 21 years.<br/>
+           “We have this treasure in earthen vessels.”</p>
+
+<p>A pyramidal monument, supported by fluted pillars, and bearing a
+small sarcophagus, surmounted by two figures of children or
+cherubs, holding in their hands a scroll, on which is written
+texts from Scripture. The inscription is as follows:—</p>
+
+<p>“Supported only by a meek obedience to the decrees of Eternal
+Wisdom, and a firm trust in the Atonement of a gracious Redeemer,
+William and Ruth Atkinson, once inhabitants of Antigua, and now
+of Dominica, as an inadequate evidence of their intense and
+aggravated anguish for the poignant and crushing trial they have
+undergone in the loss of both their children, pay this melancholy
+tribute, when advancing into manly, lively virtue, such as fills
+the parents’ soul with solid comfort.</p>
+
+<p>“George Atkinson, their first and last spared hope, had nearly
+reached his twelfth year. This blooming prop of their declining
+age​—​when, by a mild and artless truth, joined to innate goodness
+and suavity
+<a id="p224" class="pagenumber" title="Monuments and inscriptions."></a>
+of temper, he had irresistibly won the esteem and love of all​—​quitted
+this life without a struggle on Sunday, 5th Dec. 1779.</p>
+
+<p>“<span class="sc">William Atkinson</span>, their youngest, died in infancy.</p>
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">What poets paint, what marbles feebly tell,<br/>
+            &#160;&#160;Defective far are all;<br/>
+          Such woes are only to be known<br/>
+          &#160;&#160;To real feeling souls.<br/>
+          Where equal growing filial worth’s bewail’d,<br/>
+          The name of Son thus lost, all consolation fail’d.<br/>
+                           1782.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref73" href="#note73">73</a>]</sup></p></blockquote>
+
+<p>A small tablet, representing a white scroll upon a black ground,
+surmounted by a laurel chaplet, bearing inscription:</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">In memory of<br/>
+                         Auther Teagle,<br/>
+                     Who departed this life<br/>
+                   On the 20th November, 1839,<br/>
+                         Aged 43 years.<br/>
+                       “Thy will be done.”</p>
+
+<p>In the north aisle are four monuments; the first, beginning from
+the east, erected to a late curate of St. John’s. It consists of
+a white marble tablet, and above, the figure of an angel soaring
+upwards, and encompassed with clouds. The tablet bears the
+following inscription:—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">To the memory of<br/>
+             The Rev. William Thomas Bernard, A.B.,<br/>
+                   Of Trinity College, Dublin,<br/>
+                   Late curate of this parish,<br/>
+         Where, after a short residence of four months,<br/>
+          In the faithful exercise of his ministry, and<br/>
+            The manifestation of much private worth,<br/>
+                He died of fever, Nov. 2nd, 1835,<br/>
+                  In the 26th year of his age,<br/>
+              Most deeply and generally regretted,<br/>
+              This tribute of esteem and affection<br/>
+                           Is erected,<br/>
+              Partly by his much afflicted Sister,<br/>
+                         Ellen M. Baily,<br/>
+   And partly by the Right Rev. William Hart Coleridge, D.D.,<br/>
+                  Lord Bishop of this diocese,<br/>
+         The clergy of Antigua, and other friends in the<br/>
+                Island, who mourn his early loss.</p>
+
+<p>Beneath the tablet are his coat of arms, with the motto—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">“Bear and Forbear.”</p>
+
+<p>A white marble monument, with a deep border of variegated
+brown marble, to the memory of a descendant of Sir
+<a id="p225" class="pagenumber" title="Inscriptions."></a>
+Thomas Warner. The ornamental part consists of a female
+figure enveloped in widow-like drapery, and leaning upon
+an urn. The inscription is as follows:—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">       This monument<br/>
+                   Is erected to the memory of<br/>
+              <span class="sc">The Honourable William Warner, Esq.</span>,<br/>
+           Who was a member of His Majesty’s Council,<br/>
+                  And Treasurer of this Island.<br/>
+             Honourable by his office of Counsellor,<br/>
+                               But<br/>
+                    More honourable as a man:<br/>
+                             For if<br/>
+                 Virtue alone is true nobility,<br/>
+        And if justice, moderation, temperance, meekness,<br/>
+          Consummate honesty, charity, generosity, and<br/>
+ Conjugal affection, are virtues that are held in any estimation<br/>
+                           Among men,<br/>
+                            This man,<br/>
+              Who lived in the exercise of them all<br/>
+                      Was truly honourable.<br/>
+ He died on Friday, 11 October, 1771, in the forty-third year of his age,<br/>
+ Universally regretted, and lamented by all orders and degrees among<br/>
+                                Us.<br/>
+     To commemorate her anguish for his loss, and as a public<br/>
+    Testimony of her love and duty, his disconsolate widow hath<br/>
+                Caused this memorial to be raised.<br/>
+                      Gloria in excelsis Deo!</p>
+
+<p>A very elegantly designed white pyramidal monument erected to the
+memory of an only child. A chastely sculptured female figure
+leans upon a “storied urn,” with a beautifully chiselled wreath
+of flowers thrown around her. This monument has been
+unfortunately injured, one of the hands and part of the arm of
+the figure being broken off.</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">In memory of her only and beloved daughter,<br/>
+                         <span class="sc">Sarah Kelsick</span>,<br/>
+         Wife of Mr. John Kelsick, merchant in Antigua,<br/>
+              Who died on 20th day of March, 1785,<br/>
+                  In the 19th year of her age.<br/>
+      This monument was erected by her disconsolate mother,<br/>
+                        Sarah Eccleston,<br/>
+                 Wife of Isaac Eccleston, Esq.,<br/>
+                              1792.<br/>
+            From the parent, the husband, the friend,<br/>
+                 Her social and amiable virtues<br/>
+                Claim the tribute of affliction,<br/>
+                    And though early cut off,<br/>
+            She must ever live in the memory of those<br/>
+           Who had the happiness of her acquaintance.<br/>
+                    Vivit post funera virtus.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p226" class="pagenumber" title="Monument to Lord Lavington."></a>
+The next is an elaborate and splendid monument, erected by the
+country to the memory of Ralph Lord Lavington; and however
+peculiar the taste which dictated the design, the execution, at
+least, possesses merit. The top figure represents his lordship
+in a sitting posture, habited in the old court dress, and his
+plumed hat lying at his feet. The inscription is traced upon a
+light grey marble, hollowed out so as to allow of the insertion
+of a small sarcophagus, bearing his coat of arms, with a
+beautifully-executed branch of oak-leaves thrown across it.</p>
+
+<p>Two female figures recline on each side; the one on the left
+hand, representing Astrea with her scales by her side, and the
+hilt of the sword of justice, very minutely and beautifully
+sculptured, protruding from behind the sarcophagus; her
+finely-formed and classic face is up-turned towards the old lord.
+In the other figure we behold the genius of the island, mourning
+for the loss of a favourite governor. She holds in her right
+hand a scroll, upon which is inscribed​—​“Resolved, that a
+monument be erected to his memory,” while with her left hand she
+shades her features as if in deep grief. At the feet of these
+figures rolls the sea, the waves, surmounted with their foam,
+very well executed. This costly monument bears the following
+inscription:—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">          Sacred<br/>
+                        To the memory of<br/>
+                   <span class="sc">Ralph Payne Lord Lavington</span>,<br/>
+                   Of the kingdom of Ireland,<br/>
+       One of His Majesty’s most honourable Privy Council,<br/>
+        Knight of the most honourable Order of the Bath,<br/>
+         and Captain-general, and Commander-in-chief of<br/>
+                      The Leeward Islands.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the base of the monument is the following brief biographical
+inscription:—</p>
+
+<p>“He was born in the Island of St. Christopher’s, of an English family,
+distinguished for its loyalty and public spirit. His education he received
+in England, and it prepared him for the distinctions which awaited his
+return to his native isle, when he was elected a member of the House of
+Assembly, and on its first meeting unanimously called to the chair of
+the House, in which high situation he gave an early display of those
+superior talents and eminent qualifications which afterwards secured
+<a id="p227" class="pagenumber" title="Monument to Mrs. Musgrave."></a>
+him the confidence of his king, and the esteem of his country.
+On his return to England in 1762, he was elected a member of the
+House of Commons for the borough of Plympton, Devonshire; and
+from his perfect knowledge of colonial affairs, he was appointed in
+1771​—​a period of national interest​—​to be captain-general and
+commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, at which time he was
+also invested with the most honourable Order of the Bath. He
+remained in the exercise of his government until 1774, when he
+returned to England, and was appointed a member of the Board of
+Green Cloth. During the period of his residence in England, he
+sat in five parliaments, and in 1795, his Majesty was graciously
+pleased to raise him to the dignity of a peer in Ireland, by the
+style and title of Baron Lavington of Lavington. In 1799, he was
+sworn one of his Majesty’s most honourable Privy Council, and
+again appointed to the chief command of the Leeward Islands, in
+the wise and able administration of which important trust he
+passed his latter years</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">And closed his venerable life.<br/>
+                           This nobleman<br/>
+               Was revered for his public qualities,<br/>
+            As he was beloved for his private virtues.<br/>
+ He blended the dignity of his high office with the affability of his
+         disposition and the gracefulness of his manners,<br/>
+ And at once commanded the respect, and conciliated the affections of all
+                          ranks of people<br/>
+                Within the circle of his government<br/>
+ As a sincere and lasting testimony of their veneration and regret,<br/>
+                    The Legislature of Antigua<br/>
+                    Have erected this monument<br/>
+ He died at the Government House of this Island, on the 3rd day of Aug.
+ 1807, aged 68; and was interred at his own estate, called Carlisles.”</p>
+
+<p>The whole of this very handsome monument is enclosed in an arch
+of plain black marble. I should have mentioned that the
+ornamental parts of this tomb are all in pure <i>white</i> marble.</p>
+
+<p>The remaining monument is erected to the memory of
+Mrs. Musgrave, who was unfortunately thrown out of her
+carriage (the horse becoming restive and breaking the shafts)
+and killed upon the spot. This unhappy catastrophe occurred
+in one of the streets of St. John’s, and a representation
+of the event, absurd as it may seem, is sculptured upon
+the monument (which is of white marble) in basso-relievo.
+In the background is the animal, apparently of the cart-horse
+breed, scampering away with the broken shafts and traces
+hanging around him; in the foreground, is the figure of a
+man, kneeling and supporting in his arms a female, whose
+<a id="p228" class="pagenumber" title="Monument to Mrs. Musgrave."></a>
+listless posture portrays the dire event. The face of the
+female is well executed, the features expressing acute suffering,
+while they tell the hand of death is upon them; but the
+figure is execrable in its proportions, the hand and arm
+being quite as large as the leg and foot of the man, if not
+larger. The inscription is as follows:—</p>
+
+<p class="inscrip">“No warning given! unceremonious fate!<br/>
+            A sudden rush from life’s meridian joys!<br/>
+                A wrench from all she loved.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref74" href="#note74">74</a>]</sup><br/>
+                      Sacred to the memory<br/>
+                               of<br/>
+                         <span class="sc">Eliza Musgrave</span>,<br/>
+                 Wife of William Musgrave, Esq.,<br/>
+             Of the Inner Temple, barrister-at-law.<br/>
+                     She departed this life<br/>
+             On the morning of the 12th Feb., 1815,<br/>
+                         Aged 24 years,<br/>
+            Beloved and lamented by all who knew her.<br/>
+                     Her God she reverenced;<br/>
+       Towards her neighbours she never wilfully offended;<br/>
+                To her husband she was everything<br/>
+          His fondest wishes could picture or embrace.<br/>
+                He idolized her while she lived,<br/>
+              And his respect for her exalted worth<br/>
+                   Survives beyond the grave.<br/>
+               The remembrance of her many virtues<br/>
+                   Remains indelibly inscribed<br/>
+                     In his dejected bosom.</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza"><small>“Friends, our chief treasure, how they drop!<br/>
+          How the world falls to pieces round about us!<br/>
+          And leaves us in the ruin of our joy!<br/>
+          What says this transportation of my friends?<br/>
+          It bids me love the place where now they dwell,<br/>
+          And scorn this wretched spot it leaves so poor.”<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref75" href="#note75">75</a>]</sup></small></p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The aisles of the church are paved with a coarse species of
+marble, laid down in alternate diamonds of black and
+white. The chancel is raised by two steps, and has a stone
+pavement. The body of the church contains 152 pews, but
+with the assistance of the galleries, of which there are three,
+affords about 1800 sittings. The governor’s pew is very
+neatly fitted up with crimson damask, and contains some
+gaily coloured ottomans; over the pew are the royal arms
+of England. Service is performed in the church on Sundays,
+<a id="p229" class="pagenumber" title="John Delap Halliday, Esq."></a>
+Wednesdays, and Fridays; and our exemplary rector,
+with true Christian indefatigability, administers the sacrament
+monthly, at eight in the morning, and after the usual
+morning service.</p>
+
+<p>The organ with which the church is furnished, was erected (partly
+by subscription) in 1760, at the cost of 450<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling, the
+vestry making up what was wanting. It is still a very fine
+instrument, and our talented and respected organist, G. Hart,
+Esq., fully recompenses us for any defects it may labour under by
+his inimitable execution.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref76" href="#note76">76</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>At the west end of the nave rises a plain quadrangular tower,
+surmounted by an octagonal cupola. The elevation to the apex of
+the cupola is sixty-five feet; the altitude of the tower itself
+is fifty feet. This tower was not erected until 1789, some years
+after the parent church, but from being constructed of the same
+materials, presents a uniform appearance; the cupola is built of
+wood, the perpendicular compartments being <i>jalousied</i>. John
+Delap Halliday, Esq. gave 500<i class="currency">l.</i> towards its erection.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref77" href="#note77">77</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>Within these last few months, two windows have been pierced at
+the east side of the tower, in the small chamber where the works
+of the clock are placed. These were made at the suggestion of Mr.
+Jones, the keeper of the clock, and which prove very beneficial
+to him when inspecting and cleaning that necessary appurtenance.
+Before that period this chamber was perfectly dark, which not
+only rendered the air within it extremely damp, but presented an
+<a id="p230" class="pagenumber" title="The churchyard."></a>
+obstacle to the due regulation of the instrument contained in it;
+for candles are but a sorry substitute for the clear light of day
+when employed in such delicate business as rectifying the
+machinery of a horologe. Under the care of Mr. Jones the works
+are kept beautifully clean, which of course will produce a good
+effect. This instrument was the gift of John Delap Halliday, (as
+may be seen by the inscription upon the works,) of Antigua, and
+the maker of it Charles Penton, London, 1788. The windows are
+glazed, and present exactly the same appearance as those to be
+found in the suburban dwelling-houses around that mighty
+metropolis, London.</p>
+
+<p>The tower contains two bells; the tenor one inscribed​—​“Edmund
+Powell, Golden Grove, 1684,” and was kept for the use of the
+coloured classes in other days. The large bell was presented to
+the church by John Delap, (before he assumed the name of
+Halliday,) Esq., 1788. It bore the following inscription:—​“The
+gift of John Delap, Esq. The Rev. James Lindsey, rector; Thomas
+Hanson Halloran, and Daniel Hill, churchwardens. Charles Penton,
+London, fecit. John Warner, founder, of London, 1788.” It was
+taken down the 11th of February, 1840, on account of a serious
+injury beyond repair, shipped for London on board the “Antigua
+Packet,” and exchanged for a new one of the same size, which now
+serves to call the people to church, and to speak the demise of
+the inhabitants; but it is silent at a wedding, for in this
+country no merry peal of bells announces that event which
+elsewhere is ever the signal for joy and festivity.</p>
+
+<p>Having attempted the description of the church, I will now
+proceed to mention the churchyard, which lies upon a gentle
+slope, and contains numerous tombs, with their iron or wooden
+railings. The most beautiful tomb in the ground was erected to
+the memory of the Honourable Otto Baijer, by his widow, who
+afterwards died on her passage to England in 1726. Her remains
+were brought back to Antigua, and now repose by the side of her
+loved husband. It is of
+<a id="p231" class="pagenumber" title="Tomb of Major-gen. G. W. Ramsey."></a>
+pure white marble, although stained by exposure to the
+weather, and is elegantly ornamented with various fruits and
+flowers in basso-relievo.</p>
+
+<p>The oldest sepulchral monuments, of which I could make out the
+inscriptions, are to the memory of Troughton, 1704; Col. Philip
+Lee. 1704;<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref78" href="#note78">78</a>]</sup> Capt. Bastien Baijer, 1715; Thos. Oasterman, Esq.,
+1724; Frederic Cope, 1739; and Mrs. Warner, the wife of Ashton
+Warner, Esq., 1748.</p>
+
+<p>The inscription upon the tomb of Frederic Cope demands, however,
+further mention. It is an acrostic; the <i>poetry</i> I leave to the
+judgment of my readers.</p>
+
+<p class="cent"><small>THE INSCRIPTION.</small></p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza"><small>“F ar removed from every human eye he is,<br/>
+    &#160;R egardless now of earth, partakes of heaven’s bliss;<br/>
+    &#160;E xalted was his lively soul whilst here below,<br/>
+    &#160;D elighted ever tender friendships for to show;<br/>
+    &#160;E asy and cheerful through every scene of Life;<br/>
+    &#160;R eady to forgive all; but unto me, his wife,<br/>
+    &#160;I ndulgent to the last degree, for ever kind—<br/>
+    &#160;C alm was his spirit, virtuous was his mind.</small></p>
+
+<p class="stanza"><small>&#160;C areful he ever was to take no bribe in Law;<br/>
+    &#160;O h! full, full well the abject hate of mortals saw.<br/>
+    &#160;P artial he never was, just to each man’s fame,<br/>
+    &#160;E ach initial letter will now declare his name.”</small></p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="small">He was born in London, of honest parents, on the 21st day of May,
+1711, and died, in Antigua, on the 8th ———, 1739.</p>
+
+<p>A fine large marble tomb, to the memory of the Honourable Ashton
+Warner, who died 11th of February, 1762, stands near to this very
+original sepulchral acrostic; and at no great distance a single
+stone to the memory of some admiral (the inscription obliterated)
+with its anchors and flags, and escutcheons.</p>
+
+<p>On the east side of the north vestibule stands the tomb of
+Major-general George W. Ramsey, governor-in-chief of
+Antigua, Monserrat, and Barbados, in 1816, who departed
+this life, November 1st, 1819, in the 58th year of his age.
+<a id="p232" class="pagenumber" title="Tomb of Patrick Kirwan."></a>
+The iron railing has become rusted and bent,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref79" href="#note79">79</a>]</sup> and the tomb
+bears many a blackened mark.</p>
+
+<p>Near to the last resting-place of governor Ramsey, stands another
+very handsome tomb of white marble, erected to that well-known
+and eccentric character, Patrick Kirwan. He was a native of
+Galway, and as true an Irishman as ever handled a shillelah, or
+vowed devotion to “the shamrock so green.” Mr. Kirwan resided in
+Antigua for many years, as a planter and proprietor of estates,
+where his “bulls and blunders” are still remembered and repeated
+with delight. Upon one occasion he sent for a sun-dial from
+England, which he intended to have erected near his dwelling; but
+upon its arrival, it looked so smart with its golden rays and
+gnomen, that “Pat” pronounced it the very height of profanation
+to have such a pretty “cratur” exposed to the relentless shafts
+of master Sol; and so to preserve its beauty, and keep all
+secure, he had a tight snug shed built over it, which eventually
+forbid the entrance of any straggling sunbeam which might feel
+inclined to call upon it, to learn the hour. Poor Mr. Kirwan! his
+Irish blood was always leading him to commit blunders, which were
+sure to raise a laugh at his expense. During a partial rebellion
+of the negroes, at a period when he was manager of an estate, a
+few miles from the capital, he one morning presented himself
+before the proprietor with a very flushed face, and excited
+mien​—​“Good morning, Mr. Kirwan,” said his employer. “What brings
+you to town so suddenly​—​you look alarmed, I hope nothing is the
+matter?” “Faith, an there is though!” retorted the Irishman, “and
+if the blessed St. Patrick himself had been here, he would have
+looked alarmed too. Why, there’s a perfect <i>resurrection</i> of the
+negroes upon your estate!” “A what?” inquired the surprised
+proprietor. “A perfect <i>resurrection</i>,” repeated Pat, “and I have
+come to ask you what I must do?” His employer could scarcely
+repress a smile at this strange intelligence. At length,
+however, he summoned gravity enough to reply, “If that’s the
+case, Mr. Kirwan,
+<a id="p233" class="pagenumber" title="Monument to James Cullen."></a>
+the best advice I can give you is, to put a <i>hoe</i> into their
+hands as fast as they rise, and set them to work immediately.”</p>
+
+<p>But with all his “<i>bulls and blunders</i>,” Mr. Kirwan was
+deservedly respected, and his death universally regretted. He
+died in 1819, in the 66th year of his age. The inscription upon
+his monument informs us “By his direction this tomb was erected.”</p>
+
+<p>At the entrance of the east gate is a mural stone monument,
+erected to the memory of James Cullen, by his brother Robert
+Cullen. This monument is pointed out to strangers on account of
+the peculiarity of its form, with the assertion that the person
+who built the church is buried there, and that the coffin is
+obliged to stand in a perpendicular position. This, however, is
+not correct; the monument certainly stands there, but the place
+where the body is entombed is 23 feet further to the west; and
+instead of being raised to the memory of the architect of the
+church, that individual erected it to perpetuate the memory of
+his brother. This fact is engraven upon the monument; but so
+unexploring are the Antiguans in general, that I think but few of
+the inhabitants are aware of the real truth, but still think the
+coffin stands upright.</p>
+
+<p>This strange practice of putting up the grave-stone at a distance
+from the grave is not the only instance of the kind to be met in
+the churchyard of St. John’s. At one of the west gates lies a
+stone slab, to the memory of the late organist; and upon reading
+the inscription, I supposed that the body reposed beneath. But
+not so: that lies far away, with “not a stone to mark the place.”
+Upon asking a pew-opener the reason for placing the slab in that
+situation, his reply was, “It does so nicely, you know, for the
+people to walk on, and looks well.”</p>
+
+<p>The churchyard is entered by five iron gates, of handsome
+patterns. At the north, a flight of stone steps leads up to
+the church, while from the south gate, the building is approached
+by an easy and gradual ascent, paved with brick.
+The pillars of the south gate are surmounted by stone
+<a id="p234" class="pagenumber" title="Adam and Eve."></a>
+figures, representing St. John
+the Baptist, and St. John the Evangelist. These figures were
+intended to receive the vows of the good catholics at Dominica;
+but as it happened to be war time, when they took their departure
+from “<i lang="fr">la belle France</i>,” on their passage they fell in with an
+English man-of-war, who most unceremoniously took them into
+keeping, and brought them to Antigua; where, by universal
+consent, they were placed as sentinels in their present position,
+instead of being decked out in gold and silver leaf, and mock
+jewels. The negroes, however, refuse to recognise them by their
+own titles, but have unanimously dubbed them “Adam and Eve”​—​the
+Baptist, I suppose, playing the part of the lady, as his garments
+are longer and more voluminous than those of his companion.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note71" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref71">71</a>] See <a href="#ch20">Chapter XX</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note72" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref72">72</a>] A descendant of Sir Thomas Warner, who planted the first
+English colony in Antigua.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note73" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref73">73</a>] This strangely-worded inscription is copied verbatim.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note74" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref74">74</a>] Slightly altered from Young’s “Night Thoughts.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note75" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref75">75</a>] Young’s “Night Thoughts,” Night 7th.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note76" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref76">76</a>] To the organ is attached a choir, composed of the boys and
+girls from the parochial school.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note77" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref77">77</a>] From this John Delap Halliday descends the present Admiral
+Tollemache​—​viz.—</p>
+
+<p>Lionel Tollemache, 3rd Earl of Dysert, born June, 1708; married
+Grace, eldest daughter of John Earl of Granville, by whom he had
+(among other issue) a daughter, Jane, married, 1770, John Delap
+Halliday, of the Leasowes, county of Salop, and of Antigua, Esq.,
+by whom she had issue, I. John Halliday, Admiral R.N., and who
+has assumed the name of Tollemache, and who married Elizabeth,
+second daughter of John, 3rd Earl of Aldborough, by whom he has,
+among other children, Elizabeth, the present Countess of
+Cardigan; and II. Charlotte, married Henry, fourth son of 6th Sir
+William Wolseley, of Wolseley, county Stafford.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note78" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref78">78</a>] The gentleman who presented the pair of silver candlesticks
+for the communion table. He was an Irishman by birth and
+education; but after having served in the wars in Flanders, he
+emigrated to Antigua, and became Speaker of the House of Assembly
+in that island in 1702.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note79" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref79">79</a>] It is said to have been done by lightning.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch20" class="chapter">
+
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XX.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Court-house​—​Bazaar​—​Arsenal​—​Police-office​—​Government-house​—​Barracks​—​House
+of correction​—​Gaol​—​Methodist
+chapel​—​Methodism, its rise and progress in
+Antigua​—​Moravian chapel​—​Rise and progress of the Society
+of United Brethren​—​Scotch kirk.</p>
+
+<p class="init">After the church and churchyard of St. John’s, the next public
+building which calls for attention is the court house. This, as
+before stated, was erected in 1747, William Lowry being the
+mason, and Duncan Grant the carpenter. Who these worthies were I
+know not; but a glance at the court house proves they were
+efficient workmen. In order to raise funds to defray the expenses
+of its erection, the legislature obtained a loan of 746<i class="currency">l.</i>
+12<i class="currency">s.</i> 4½<i class="currency">d.</i> currency, from the executors of Samuel and Thomas
+Watkins; and Jonas Langford (a proprietor of Antigua, and whose
+estates still go by his name) lent 1253<i class="currency">l.</i> 7<i class="currency">s.</i> 7¾<i class="currency">d.</i>
+currency, which debts were to be paid off by levying a tax of
+2<i class="currency">s.</i> 6<i class="currency">d.</i> per head upon all slaves in the island for six years.</p>
+
+<p>The place where it stands was originally the market; but
+that site being the one most approved of for the erection of a
+<a id="p235" class="pagenumber" title="The court house."></a>
+public building, the market was removed to a street nearly
+facing it, where it has since been held.</p>
+
+<p>The court house is a very noble-looking pile for a West India
+colony, and indeed would not disgrace the boasted streets of
+London. The plan of the structure is very uniform and neat. It is
+built of a fine-grained freestone, the produce of some of the
+small islands already described, which was furnished by contract
+for the purpose by Mr. Robert Bannister, a former planter of
+Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>The principal entrance (to the south) is approached by iron
+gates; and after crossing a small court-yard paved with large
+flag-stones, you enter a small corridor, supported by circular
+stone columns, with plain capitals. At each end of this corridor,
+a flight of stairs leads to the upper apartments in the east and
+west wings, the one appropriated to the use of his excellency the
+governor, when he retires for the purpose of preparing his
+speech; the other to the clerk of the assembly; below are the
+marshal’s office, and the office of the colonial secretary.</p>
+
+<p>The ground-floor of the main building comprises one large room,
+extending the whole length and breadth of the edifice. The east
+end being fitted up for the sittings of all courts of justice,
+has its bench for the judges, covered with crimson, and a chair
+for the governor (when present), over which are the national
+arms, where the “lion” grins with approved ferocity, and the
+“unicorn” shews its golden hoofs. Around a huge circular table,
+which might have feasted “king Arthur” and his gallant “knights,”
+even better than the stone one which is shewn as having answered
+for that purpose, are placed the sittings for the barristers,
+attorney-general, solicitor-general, and benches for the grand
+and petty juries. Exactly opposite the seat of the
+solicitor-general, a ready pen has scrawled upon the table a
+striking likeness of “his satanic majesty.” I hope his aid was
+not necessary in that part of Astrea’s court, at the time his
+lineaments were portrayed! This part of the interior is enclosed
+within a semi-circular mahogany railing. At the
+<a id="p236" class="pagenumber" title="The court house."></a>
+lower or west end of the apartment are congregated all the
+<i lang="fr">canaille</i>​—​the very riff-raff of the town​—​who flock to hear
+speeches they understand as much as a Greek syllogism; the
+respectable spectators are admitted within the enclosure.
+The barristers plead in gowns, but not in wigs, very much
+to their comfort I should apprehend, in this warm climate.</p>
+
+<p>The upper floor of the court house is divided into two apartments
+by wooden partitions, leaving a lobby between; but these can be
+removed at pleasure, making the whole one room, as on the
+ground-floor. The east apartment is appropriated to the governor
+and council, when sitting; at other times for the use of the
+grand jury, or petty juries in criminal causes. A long table
+covered with “green cloth” runs across the room, and around which
+are placed very handsome chairs, of unique patterns, (oak, with
+cane backs, and green morocco seats and elbows,) the one destined
+for the use of the governor being of larger dimensions, and
+having the arms of England painted upon it.</p>
+
+<p>The west room is used for the meeting of the house of assembly,
+and is furnished in the same manner as the other apartment, only
+that under the royal arms (which are attached to the north side
+of the room) is a kind of rostrum, furnished with its proper
+seat, and intended for the accommodation of the speaker of the
+house of assembly.</p>
+
+<p>On returning by the west flight of stairs, my eyes were directed
+to a padlock in the wall, which formerly secured the ladder made
+use of at executions; but happy am I to say, such scenes are now
+of very rare occurrence in this island.</p>
+
+<p>I should have observed, that balls and dinners are sometimes held
+at the court house; as well as Bible and missionary meetings; and
+also fancy sales for charitable purposes. The last fancy fair, or
+rather bazaar, held there by the Church-of-England Association,
+was a very crowded affair. It took place on the day after
+Christmas-day, a day of all others devoted by the Antiguans to a
+display of dress. Not only all kinds of fancy and ornamental
+articles, fabricated by the
+<a id="p237" class="pagenumber" title="The gaol."></a>
+fair hands of the Antiguan ladies
+were to be found there, but what pleased some part of the company
+much better, a well-filled lunch-table was spread, when pullets
+and guinea-birds, turkeys and ham, were joined to a whole army of
+tarts and puffs, fruits and confections. It was a motley group
+that frequented the court house that day: Iris would have found
+herself outvied in colours, and Fancy might have taken a new
+lesson. In one part of the room might be seen a member of the
+council, with his lady hanging upon his arm, and next to him a
+black labourer <i>with his lady</i>, in the same position; the latter
+couple making, in many instances, a far greater show than their
+aristocratic neighbours.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref80" href="#note80">80</a>]</sup> The military band was stationed in
+the lower apartment, and played during the day the most
+fashionable and favourite airs. The profits arising from this
+sale were appropriated to the purposes of assisting to defray the
+expenses of the new public cistern lately erected.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite the north side of the court house is the arsenal,
+erected in 1757 or 1758. It is, as might be supposed, a strong
+building, and stands in a court yard, enclosed with iron
+railings. To the east of the arsenal is the old guard-house,
+erected in 1754, during the administration of Sir George Thomas.
+It is a plain building, with two projecting wings; but it is now
+very much out of repair, not being used for any purpose.
+Adjoining the guard-house is a long stone building, with its
+grated windows, formerly used as the gaol of the island, but
+within these last few years turned into the police office,​—​the
+goal being removed to the suburbs of St. John’s. This is a very
+great improvement; for this building, standing in one of the
+greatest thoroughfares of this populous town, and directly facing
+the market, the culprits who were immured for petty crimes, and
+kept in that part of the gaol, could look through their grated
+windows, hold converse with the passers-by, and thus disseminate
+their evil
+<a id="p238" class="pagenumber" title="Government house."></a>
+counsels among the idle and profligate of both sexes,
+who were always lounging about that spot. The dungeons where the
+felons used to be confined were gloomy dens indeed, and ran along
+the outer walls of the prison. One of these dungeons has been
+lately made into an engine-house, a door being broken through its
+massy walls facing the street. Upon passing this vault during its
+transformation, a sigh broke from my lips as memory carried me
+back to those fearful days when so many miserable creatures, who
+bore the name without the freedom of man, used to inhabit them,
+and often, it is said, from very trivial causes. Like Sterne, I
+fancied I could behold them in all their misery,​—​their bodies,
+perhaps, wasted with disease,​—​their eyes blood-shot and wild with
+despair,​—​their features sharpened by anguish of mind:—​no one to
+soothe their grief,​—​no one to hear their complaint,​—​and without
+the <i>hope</i>, but not perhaps without the <i>fear</i>, of an hereafter,
+they left those cheerless vaults to be launched into eternity by
+the hangman’s hands! The picture was too dreadful; but sounds of
+laughter and gladness were abroad, our carriage rolled on amid
+crowds of blacks of every sex and age; and although at times I
+suffer, as many others do, from their impudence of manners and
+behaviour, yet I felt in my heart a pleasure at their being
+<i>free</i>. The present building was erected in 1772, the former gaol
+having been burnt to the ground in the great fire of 1769.</p>
+
+<p>The next edifice worthy of notice is government house. It is
+situated in a pleasant and open space in the suburbs, and
+embraces a wide extent of prospect, while from its open windows
+as pure a breeze may be inhaled as attainable from any dwelling
+in the capital. Although possessing nothing very grand in its
+exterior, or internal arrangements, no marble pillars or lofty
+arches, yet it is a pleasant, genteel West Indian residence,
+possessing some good apartments, and having its stabling and
+other out-buildings upon a respectable scale. During the period
+his excellency is residing in the capital, the “Union Jack”
+floats from the top of the flag-staff, opposite government house;
+and then all
+<a id="p239" class="pagenumber" title="The custom house."></a>
+loyal subjects pay their respects to their young and
+beautiful queen’s representative.</p>
+
+<p>The custom house, as has already been mentioned, was destroyed in
+the fire of 1841. It was a very respectable edifice, and well
+suited to the purpose. The building now used in its stead is
+hired at the annual rent of 100<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling. The treasurer’s and
+registrar’s offices are also private property, for which a
+moderate rent is given.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref81" href="#note81">81</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>From the custom house, I proceed to mention the barracks, very
+delightfully situated in a kind of open heath, to the east of the
+town. These consisted of two distinct buildings a few paces from
+each other; but the north wing of the lower one becoming
+dismantled and ruinous, it was resolved in 1831 to repair it, and
+appropriate it to the use of a gaol, instead of the building
+already described in the vicinity of the court house.</p>
+
+<p>In this gaol, far greater attention is paid to the unfortunate
+inmates than was formerly the case. The prisoners are furnished
+with two wholesome and sufficient meals a day, but no clothing or
+bedding is allowed, unless by order of the medical man attending
+them. The females are separated from the men, and the debtors
+from the felons; although in former years they all used to herd
+together.</p>
+
+<p>Since the year 1829, the Rev. Robert Holberton, the excellent
+rector of St. John’s, has voluntarily visited the prison every
+Sunday between the hours of seven and eight a.m., to read
+prayers, and deliver a religious discourse to the inmates; and in
+all cases where an unhappy being has so outraged the laws of
+humanity and justice as to forfeit his life to pay the penalty of
+his crimes, that divine has ever stepped in with his message of
+mercy, prayed with them, and sought to soften their stony hearts;
+to lead them to that only fountain capable of washing away their
+deadly sins, and finally accompanied them to the last sad scene
+of their mortal career.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p240" class="pagenumber" title="Ebenezer Chapel."></a>
+One part of the gaol is converted into a house of correction, and
+the prisoners confined there are employed in breaking stones, or,
+under the surveillance of an officer, in working in the roads, or
+assisting in any other public works. A treadmill was sent for
+from England some time ago, but after costing the country a large
+sum, strange to say, no use is made of it. A shed is built over
+it, and there it remains quietly in the gaol-yard, and is likely
+to do so to the end of its existence. The reason for not using
+this machine, however, is said to be on account of the power
+required to work it, which necessarily calls for the exertions of
+a large gang; and although the house of correction is generally
+crowded with occupants, yet there has seldom been a sufficient
+number of culprits at one time condemned to that peculiar
+punishment, to set the treadmill going.</p>
+
+<p>The north end of the building is appropriated to the use of the
+officers of her majesty’s troops, stationed for the time in the
+island; and notwithstanding its near proximity to a prison, must,
+I should think, be a very pleasant domicile. The privates are
+quartered at the other barracks, further to the east; and beneath
+the shade of a large tree growing near, their red-faced wives may
+be seen busily employed in washing their habiliments, while their
+sun-burnt children scramble about and chase the butterflies, who,
+gorgeous in colours, sport about the margin of a neighbouring
+pond.</p>
+
+<p>The next building to be mentioned is, the new Ebenezer Chapel,
+belonging to the Methodist society. The corner-stone of this
+edifice was laid by the Honourable Nicholas Nugent (then speaker
+of the house of assembly, but who now resides in England as the
+colonial agent) in 1837. A religious service was first held in
+the old chapel, and then, forming into a procession, consisting
+of ministers of the different sects in Antigua, some of the
+aristocrats of the island, the leading members of the Methodists,
+and the scholars of their Sunday-schools, they marched to the
+spot appointed for the erection of their new place of worship. A
+bottle containing the customary inscription was placed in the
+cavity the stone
+<a id="p241" class="pagenumber" title="Methodism."></a>
+lowered to its proper situation, the three blows
+of the mallet struck, addresses delivered, and the ceremony was
+over.</p>
+
+<p>It is a spacious building, the front being constructed of
+free-stone, the gift of the Honourable and Rev. Nathaniel
+Gilbert. It is pierced with two tiers of windows; the upper ones
+arched and of larger size than the lower tier, which are very
+disproportioned to the extent of the edifice​—​a circumstance which
+tends to render it warmer than it otherwise would be. The
+ground-floor is appropriated to the use of the infant and Sunday
+schools, as also their “tea-parties,” held for charitable
+purposes; above is the chapel, which is approached by an outward
+flight of stone steps. The interior is fitted up in the usual
+plain style; but boasts a smart display of blue and white paint.</p>
+
+<p>The pulpit, painted to represent oak, is an irregular octagon,
+supported by four fluted columns, and covered with purple
+drapery, bordered with yellow fringe, instead of gold; below is
+the reading desk. The pulpit is so lofty, which renders it
+inconvenient for such of the congregation as occupy the body of
+the chapel to follow the movements of the officiating minister.
+The galleries run round all sides, and are supported by plain
+cast-iron pillars, bearing each its neat-looking lamp. The last
+gallery is exclusively appropriated to the use of the children of
+the Females’ Friend Society and the Sunday-school scholars; and
+here, also, is placed the seraphine belonging to the chapel,
+which serves to lead the vocal part of the service. Altogether,
+the chapel is an excellent building, superior to anything of the
+kind I have seen in the West Indies, and makes a good and
+commanding outward appearance, particularly when lighted up of an
+evening; but to my eye it looks more like reading rooms, or a
+philosophical institution, than a place of worship.</p>
+
+<p>Methodism was first established in Antigua in 1760, by the
+Honourable Nathaniel Gilbert, speaker of the house of assembly.
+In 1758, Mr. Gilbert visited England, carrying with him some of
+his negro servants; and during
+<a id="p242" class="pagenumber" title="The Rev. John Wesley."></a>
+his stay there, he formed an
+acquaintance with the Rev. John Wesley, the venerable founder of
+Methodism, who baptized two of the negroes. Upon Mr. Gilbert’s
+return to Antigua, he signified to those individuals who resided
+near him, that he should feel happy in meeting them at his house
+on certain evenings, when he would expound the word of God to
+them, and endeavour to enlighten their minds upon religious
+subjects. This invitation was eagerly accepted by many of the
+negroes and coloured people, and Mr. Gilbert was led to increase
+his views, and form a regular organized society, which in a short
+time amounted to two hundred members.</p>
+
+<p>This proceeding of Mr. Gilbert produced the greatest astonishment
+among the inhabitants of Antigua. A man in his rank of life to
+herd with negro slaves, and their coloured offspring, who,
+although perhaps they might be free, bore about with them the
+marks of their despised race!​—​oh! wondrous! incomprehensible!​—​the
+man must be mad, thought they. But when he, unmindful of their
+censure, proceeded in his acts of love towards these poor
+outcasts from the pale of society, their wonder knew no bounds;
+their feelings took another turn, and what at first was surprise,
+gave way to reproach and contempt. Mr. Gilbert, however, was not
+to be moved by what mankind said of him; he knew the consequence
+before he commenced his labours; and reckless of scorn or
+reprehension, he steadily pursued the path he had chalked out,
+knowing full well in whom he trusted. Thus he proceeded, until
+death called him from this world, and summoned him to reap his
+reward in heaven; when, strong in faith, he left his infant
+society without a shepherd to watch over its welfare.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Gilbert derived his origin from a family of considerable
+distinction in the west of England, where one of its members​—​Sir
+Humphrey Gilbert​—​associating himself with his kinsman, the
+celebrated Sir Walter Raleigh, became one of the most eminent
+circumnavigators of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Dying, he left
+a son, Raleigh Gilbert, Esq., who, among other individuals,
+obtained from King James I. a
+<a id="p243" class="pagenumber" title="The Gilberts of Antigua."></a>
+large grant, in what was then
+termed Plymouth​—​the foundation of the afterwards glorious colony
+of Virginia, in North America​—​and where, in 1606, he emigrated,
+along with the Lord Chief Justice Popham; George Popham, Esq.
+(his son); William Parker, Esq.; and Thomas Stanham, Esq. Soon
+after this period, we find Raleigh Gilbert, under the title of
+Captain Gilbert, in command of a vessel manned with 100 men, and
+provided with ordnance, stores, and provisions, sufficient for
+the establishment of a plantation, which he (in conjunction with
+Captain Popham, a joint patentee, and in command of another
+vessel, similarly provided) began on the banks of the river
+“Sagadock,” in the year 1608, and where they erected a fort,
+called Sir George’s. Captain Popham, his zealous coadjutor,
+having died in this place, Captain Gilbert returned to England,
+where he took possession of an estate, fallen to him by the death
+of his elder brother, Sir John Gilbert, President of the
+Virginian Company. Another member of this family, we find, about
+the same time, leader of an abortive expedition to form a
+settlement upon the shores of the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia,
+and who, it appears, was well acquainted with those several
+islands which now form the Leeward Caribbee government. The
+following extract is taken from a work published in 1741 (second
+edition):—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>“In the same year, Captain Gilbert, in the ‘Elizabeth,’ of
+London, made a voyage to Virginia, but not with the like success.
+He traded with the savages in the Charibbe Islands​—​viz., St
+Lucia, Dominica, Nevis, St Christopher’s, &amp;c., and thence
+proceeded to the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia, being the first
+that sailed up it, and landed there. The Indians set upon him and
+his company in the woods, and Captain Gilbert and four or five of
+his men were killed by their arrows, upon which his crew returned
+home.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>We cannot undertake to say from which particular member of this
+distinguished family the Gilberts of Antigua sprang, but they
+were among its earliest settlers, and constituted some of the
+greatest ornaments of the colony, in which for so many years they
+have been proprietors. The present
+<!-- "Bagster" in page head corrected to "Baxter" -->
+<a id="p244" class="pagenumber" title="Mr. John Baxter."></a>
+most noble Marquis of
+Northampton, President of the Royal Society, descends, in a
+female line, from this family. His mother, the late marchioness,
+(married, August 18, 1787, to Charles, late Earl and Marquis of
+Northampton, and died, March, 1843,) being the daughter of a Miss
+Gilbert, (daughter of Nathaniel Gilbert, of Gilberts, Antigua,
+Esq., grandfather of the present Honourable and Reverend N.
+Gilbert,) by her husband, Joshua Smith, of East Stoke Park, co.
+of Wilts, Esq.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to Methodism. Unpromising as the state of this
+little society might seem, the good seed already sown was not
+destined to perish. The Great Shepherd cared for it; and when
+least expected, raised another pastor in the person of a Mr. John
+Baxter, a native of England. Mr. Baxter was a man who moved in
+humble life, and who worked in the capacity of shipwright, in
+Chatham Dockyard; but he was justly esteemed by all who knew him,
+a pattern to the society to which he belonged, and a
+highly-respected leader among Mr. Wesley’s sect. In 1777, a
+proposal was made him by some of the directors of the Chatham
+Dockyard, to sail for Antigua, and work as foreman of the calkers
+in the naval establishment of that island. To this Mr. Baxter
+assented; but not so his friends: they made use of every argument
+in their power to make him forego his purpose​—​representing, in
+the most glowing colours, the distance he would be from all he
+loved; the dangers of the ocean, over which he must pass; and the
+difference, perhaps insalubrity, of climate he would have to
+contend with. But all without avail; he felt an unconquerable
+desire to visit that portion of the globe, and accordingly,
+bidding his friends farewell, he left England, and arrived in
+Antigua on the 2nd of April, 1778.</p>
+
+<p>As might be expected, he found the infant Methodist Society in a
+very languishing state. Upon hearing of his arrival, and of his
+being a member of the same sect as their beloved benefactor, the
+little band waited upon him, and after welcoming him to their
+shores, begged him to tell Mr. Wesley he had many children in
+Antigua whom he had never
+<a id="p245" class="pagenumber" title="Fraud of an Irish captain."></a>
+seen, but who were earnestly desirous
+of his aid. On the following Sabbath, Mr. Baxter met them in the
+services of religion, and from that day constituted himself their
+pastor; which office he performed until his death, assembling
+them together on Sundays, and performing the full service, as in
+England, and on the other week-days, after his labours in the
+dockyard were over, visiting the different estates, and teaching
+the poor slaves the road to salvation.</p>
+
+<p>His exertions were greatly blessed; and by the following year,
+1779, six hundred negroes were joined to the congregation. He now
+contemplated the erection of a chapel, and for that purpose
+instituted collections among his people, and adopted every other
+consistent method to acquire funds to carry out his plans.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Baxter’s situation was productive of great discomfort to
+himself; his duties to be performed in the naval-yard were very
+laborious; and after a long day’s work, his evenings were spent
+in travelling from plantation to plantation, the harbinger of
+Gospel news. He had no one to assist him in his self-appointed
+task, but for some years laboured on alone. In 1782, he mentions
+in a letter to a friend, “There is no white person in the
+congregation but myself. At St. John’s, thirty coloured persons
+receive the Lord’s Supper.”</p>
+
+<p>Assistance, however, was not so far off as he supposed. About
+this time an Irish family (who were all members of Mr. Wesley’s
+sect) were persuaded by an unprincipled captain of a trading
+vessel, to sell all their little property, and emigrate with him
+to America. Deceived by his plausible manners and fair speeches,
+they acquiesced in his proposals; and turning all their goods
+into money, the whole family, consisting of an elderly father and
+mother, a son, and some daughters, embarked on board his vessel,
+and sought with him their better fortune in a far-off land. But
+their false friend having inveigled them into his power, under
+various pretences, robbed them of their little all, and then
+deserted them, in a strange country. After suffering many and
+bitter privations, they found their way to Antigua, where they
+eventually became valuable assistants to Mr. Baxter.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p246" class="pagenumber" title="Dr. Coke."></a>
+In the meantime, Mr. Baxter’s great object, the erection of a
+Methodist chapel in St. John’s, was rapidly being accomplished;
+and on the 8th of November, 1783, that worthy man, with an
+overflowing heart, had the happiness of preaching his first
+sermon in it, to a full and serious audience. In the space of the
+three following years, the society increased to 2000 persons.</p>
+
+<p>In 1786, Dr. Coke, the Wesleyan missionary and historian, left
+England, for the purpose of spreading gospel tidings in America.
+Meeting, however, with violent gales, the ship in which he took
+passage was unable to make her destined port; and after
+encountering a series of disasters, as a last and only resort,
+was obliged to put into Antigua, in distress. Dr. Coke was
+delighted to find the Wesleyan society in that island in so
+satisfactory a state​—​a circumstance he was unprepared for; and in
+his letters to England, expresses in warm terms his pleasure upon
+the subject.</p>
+
+<p>The first conference was held at Antigua, in the year 1787; but
+the annual conferences, or district meetings, were not
+established until 1793, when, on the returns being made, the
+society was found to consist of 6570 members; out of which there
+were 36 white, and 105 coloured persons. Although the Methodist
+society had progressed so far, and embraced so many members, yet
+its proceedings were reviled and insulted by the greater part of
+the white inhabitants. All kinds of petty insults were heaped
+upon its pastors; while their place of worship was made the scene
+of vulgar waggeries and ribald jests. One favourite amusement
+with many of the young men of that period was, to procure a live
+goat, and after hampering its legs, fling it into the midst of
+the assembly, while engaged at their devotion at the Methodist
+chapel. At other times, in order to vary the sport, the goat was
+secured against the chapel door; and as the minister pronounced
+the amen, or the members raised their hymns of praise to God, the
+poor animal was beat and kicked until it joined in chorus with
+its deep and unharmonious cries, which were received with bursts
+of applauding laughter by its foolish captors.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p247" class="pagenumber" title="John Bott."></a>
+Mr. Baxter, although a very <i>good</i> man, was not, I have
+understood, possessed of very superior talents; and accordingly,
+many of his discourses produced much merriment among that class
+of persons who frequented his chapel for the sake of passing
+criticisms, as well as killing time. He had a favourite servant
+living with him, whose name was John Bott, and who attended to
+the lighting up of the chapel, as well as performing his home
+duties. Upon one occasion, John neglected to snuff the candles;
+an omission which caused his master so much uneasiness, that,
+after endeavouring in vain to read the portion of Scripture
+selected, he was fain to interrupt himself in the midst of a
+passage​—​“And Nathan said unto David​—​John Bott, snuff the
+candles!” This intervention, as may be supposed, caused a tumult
+of laughter; nor (said an ear-witness) could his own people
+restrain their risible faculties. But to return. About 1793, Dr.
+Coke paid Antigua another visit, and preached upon many
+plantations; one of which was Sir George Thomas’s, at North
+Sound. The old chapel at Parham was erected in 1802; the returns
+of the society made that year were, 4000 persons.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1805 was marked by the Methodists as that in which their
+friend and pastor, Mr. John Baxter, closed his mortal career,
+after a well-spent life​—​twenty-seven years of which he passed in
+Antigua.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref82" href="#note82">82</a>]</sup> He died November the 13th, 1805, and was interred in
+the churchyard of St. John’s; but if any stone marked the place
+of burial, time has obliterated the inscription, or else
+shattered the tomb. The visitor may look in vain for such a
+memento. It appears strange to me, that the Wesleyans of Antigua
+have never erected monuments to the memories of Mr. Gilbert and
+Mr. Baxter. I am sure there are members enough to do this; and it
+would be but paying a proper tribute of respect
+<a id="p248" class="pagenumber" title="Moravian settlement."></a>
+to the memories
+of those excellent men, and founders of that sect in this island.
+Perhaps, they may take the hint, and allow the walls of their
+handsome chapel to be graced with two neat marble tablets devoted
+to that purpose.</p>
+
+<p>But to proceed. Since Mr. Baxter’s death, the Wesleyan society
+has been rapidly progressing, not only in Antigua, but in all the
+other West India Islands, although Antigua is still looked upon
+as the parent church; and in 1842, the society in that island
+consisted of about 2700 members. Beside the chapel in St. John’s,
+they have places of worship at Parham, English Harbour,
+Willoughby Bay, and elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, from a small beginning​—​from a few black slaves gathered
+together by night beneath the roof of a white man​—​this society
+has spread far and wide, like some huge wave, until now it boasts
+a vast increase of number, of every variety of shade, from the
+ruddy son of Britain, down to the jetty offspring of Afric’s
+soil. Great success has attended the preaching of this sect; and
+although an episcopalian myself, and consequently more attached
+to that form of worship, I cannot let the opportunity pass me
+without offering my mite of praise to the character of their
+undaunted and fervent ministers, tendering my hearty wishes for
+their further progress, and, at the same time, expressing my firm
+belief that they have, through God, been the means of preventing
+much crime, and saving many, very many, from the fearful
+retribution, the inevitable attendant on a misspent life.</p>
+
+<p>From this view of the Methodist Chapel and Methodism, I proceed
+to mention the Moravian settlement. The Moravians, or rather,
+“United Brethren,” as many of my readers may be aware, revived
+under the celebrated Count Zinzendorf, a native of Germany, who,
+with some of his followers, visited England in the reign of
+George II., and formed several settlements of their sect in
+different parts of that kingdom. They also established colonies
+in Greenland, Labrador, and other parts of North America, and in
+South America.</p>
+
+<p>In 1731, Count Zinzendorf visited Denmark, for the purpose
+<a id="p249" class="pagenumber" title="Missionaries."></a>
+of attending the coronation of Christian VI., who, by
+the death of his father, was called to the throne of that
+kingdom. During his residence at that court, some of his
+domestics became acquainted with a negro, named Anthony,
+from one of the Danish islands. This man related many
+instances of the moral darkness in which the West Indies
+were enveloped, and of the distressed state of the negroes;
+which being repeated to the count, he felt an invincible
+desire to send missionaries to that part of the world, to proclaim
+the “tidings of great joy” to those poor benighted
+negroes.</p>
+
+<p>In 1732, this desire was carried into effect; and two
+missionaries were despatched from “Herrnhutt,” (the principal
+Moravian station, in Lusatia, Germany,) to St. Thomas. Other
+missionaries followed them; and in 1733, they planted their
+standard in St. Croix. In 1754, the society in London sent
+missionaries to Jamaica, who were followed by some of the
+brethren from America; and in 1756, Samuel Isles, a true and
+exemplary Christian, came from St. Thomas, where he had been
+residing as missionary for eight years, and established the first
+Moravian settlement in Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>Their labour of love was at first very slow in its progress; but
+they succeeded, in 1761, in raising a chapel, for the
+accommodation of the negroes, on a spot of land, purchased for
+the purpose, in St. John’s. Still their society rather decreased
+than flourished, until, about 1768, there were only fourteen
+members in the church at St. John’s. Disheartening as these
+circumstances were, like true soldiers of the Cross, they would
+not lay down their arms; and at length, their faith and patience
+met with their reward. A wonderful revival took place, and in
+1775 “the number of their stated hearers amounted to 2000; and
+never a month elapsed without an addition to the church of ten or
+twenty by baptism.”</p>
+
+<p>By the year 1787, 5465 negroes were admitted into the church.
+Their first settlement was situated at St. John’s; but in 1782,
+they had formed another at Grace Hill, or, as it was first
+termed, Bailey Hill; a delightful spot, about ten
+<a id="p250" class="pagenumber" title="Settlement at St. John’s"></a>
+miles from the capital. The number baptized at St. John’s,
+in 1789, was 507; while at Grace Hill, 217 were admitted
+into the church by that ceremony. By this time, five preachers
+were settled in Antigua; and in the course of the two
+following years, the society enrolled 7400 members. At
+the present period, 1842, the number may be estimated at
+11,000.</p>
+
+<p>Their settlement at St. John’s is situated in Spring Gardens, at
+the extreme north end of the town, and looks the very picture of
+neatness and domestic comfort. The present chapel, erected in
+1773, is a plain building​—​devoid of any great architectural
+beauty, it is true, but interesting from its very simplicity, and
+from being built by the negroes in times of slavery. The rapid
+increase of their numbers, already mentioned, rendered it
+necessary to provide a larger place of worship; which fact being
+mentioned to their negro converts, they immediately commenced
+procuring some of the materials, by each bringing a few stones
+with them, when they came to their evening meetings in the week.
+Those of them who were masons and carpenters worked with the
+greatest energy “in their free hours, after their daily tasks
+were done; and those who could not assist in the labour provided
+victuals for the workmen.” Since that period, the chapel has had
+many enlargements and alterations made to it. The dwellings of
+the preachers are gathered around it; and their neat,
+cheerful-looking burying-ground, in which grows many a beautiful
+tree, bounds the settlement to the east. Everything about them
+looks green, and fresh, and lovely; and their wives, in their
+neat caps, and Quaker-like style of dress, and the often very
+pretty, but quiet contour of their features, appear in perfect
+harmony with the other parts of the picture. I must say, I like
+the Moravians: they seem to have so much open-heartedness about
+them​—​such patriarchal simplicity of manners. Among themselves
+they are ever kind and courteous, forming, as it were, one large
+family of affectionate brothers and sisters. They have done much
+good among the black race, for whose welfare the
+<a id="p251" class="pagenumber" title="Novel method of singing."></a>
+mission was particularly intended; and many happy deaths
+among them attest the truth. Besides their settlement in St.
+John’s, they have several in other parts of the island; namely,
+at Grace Hill, Grace Bay, Newfield, Cedar Hall, Lebanon,
+Gracefield, and Five Islands.</p>
+
+<p>Among their ministers, men of learning and talent may be found.
+Their superintendent, the Rev. Mr. H———, is a great biblical
+scholar, possessed of superior faculties, and a good nervous
+preacher; but some of their missionaries, although far from
+deficient in erudition, from being natives of Germany, and not
+thoroughly acquainted with the English language, are almost
+unintelligible to English ears. I cannot say I admire the singing
+part of their service; at a given signal they all seem to dart
+off at the highest pitch of their voices, and keep on without
+regard to time or melody. However, I understand they have also a
+seraphine for the use of their chapel, which may tend to modulate
+the discordant voices of their congregation.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref83" href="#note83">83</a>]</sup> I hope these
+last few remarks may not be understood as unkind or sarcastic.
+Far be it from me to scoff at <i>any sect</i>. True it is I note their
+peculiarities; but if founded on the conscientious belief of the
+propriety of their own form of worship, I would not raise a laugh
+at the fantastic movements of even the “Jumpers” or the “Shakers”
+by any animadversions of mine.</p>
+
+<p>The last and remaining edifice I have to mention, is the
+half-finished kirk of the Scotchmen. The foundation-stone of this
+place of worship was laid with the usual ceremonies by Sir Wm.
+Colebrooke, the late governor, on the 9th of April, 1839. It is
+situated upon an ascent on the eastern outskirts of the town, and
+from it may be seen many a lovely landscape, which Claude
+Lorraine would not have scorned to imitate. It progresses but
+slowly; but still it has been known for the tortoise to outrun
+the hare, and win the race, and
+<a id="p252" class="pagenumber" title="Morning."></a>
+therefore the Scotch kirk may yet exceed some of its
+contemporaries. In its present form I can say but little
+about it, except that the same fault cannot be found with it
+as there has been with the Methodist chapel​—​the small size
+of the windows​—​for the Scotch kirk appears to be all
+windows and doors. If, however, the Scotchman will make
+haste and finish the building, I will promise to write all
+about it; in the meantime, as I have already made this
+chapter of leviathan dimensions, I will make my courtesy,
+and​—​exit for the night.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note80" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref80">80</a>] This social assemblage of “white” and “black” is one of the
+good effects of emancipation. Some years ago this dark-skinned
+race would have been kept from within the precincts of the walls
+by the point of a bayonet, as it was the custom on similar
+occasions to have a guard.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note81" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref81">81</a>] The dates of papers in most of these offices commence from
+1668, after Antigua was restored by the French, and Lord W.
+Willoughby settled in the government by his majesty Charles the
+Second.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note82" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref82">82</a>] Mr. Baxter gave up his situation in the dock-yard after the
+erection of the chapel in St. John’s, and removed to a small
+house erected in the chapel-yard, and continued to fill the
+office of the established minister until his death.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note83" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref83">83</a>] This is a misinformation. There is no seraphine in the
+chapel, but a small but very sweet-toned organ in the
+school-room. Upon a late visit to the chapel, however, I find
+that the congregation is very much improved in their style of
+singing.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch21" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXI.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Morning​—​Institutions​—​Daily Meal
+Society​—​Its rise and
+progress​—​Lazaretto​—​Destitute Females’ Friend
+Society​—​Its origin and purpose​—​Friendly
+societies​—​Bible Society​—​Missionary
+associations​—​Temperance Society​—​Juvenile
+Association​—​Ladies’ Clothing Society
+&amp;c.​—​Banks​—​Library Society.</p>
+
+<p class="init">Another morning is come​—​a bright glorious morning: the sky is as
+deeply blue as the breast of the kingfisher, except where here
+and there a snowy pyramid of clouds mounts slowly up the heavens.
+Through the open windows of my apartments, a rich flood of
+sunshine pours in, and plays upon the floor in many a fanciful
+chequer. The bright red flowers of the “Scarlet Cordia” hang in
+tasteful branches from among their broad green leaves, and
+attract the attention of the little humming-bird, who, in their
+changeful plumage, flit around, and rob the flowers of their
+liquid sweets. The breeze is as gentle as an infant’s sigh, a
+dreamy stillness is abroad, and​—​but what was that?​—​rain, I
+declare! A gloom has silently and suddenly overspread the sky;
+the late white-robed clouds have become covered with a darkened
+hue; the wind has raised its pipe; the rain comes pouring down,
+and chases away my feathered favourites. I can write no
+<a id="p253" class="pagenumber" title="Daily Meal Society."></a>
+more of
+bright skies and glowing sunbeams, and therefore I must proceed
+in my task, which the beauty of the morning drove from my
+thoughts; and having already attempted a description of the
+buildings of St. John’s, I shall now endeavour to give some
+account of its institutions.</p>
+
+<p>The first to be placed upon the list, not from the number of
+years it has been established, but from its extent, is the Daily
+Meal Society, for information respecting which I am indebted to
+the Rev. Robert Holberton. This society, intended for the purpose
+of “supplying the sick and needy, of St. John’s and its
+neighbourhood with a daily meal,“ was established in the year
+1828, the management of its affairs being “undertaken by a
+committee of seven gentlemen in the town, (the present Speaker of
+the House of Assembly being the treasurer;) three of the clergy,
+(the Rev. Robt. Holberton being the secretary;) and five of the
+medical gentlemen.” They hold their meetings in the
+churchwarden’s office, and on the 18th of June, 1828, a female
+superintendent was appointed at a salary of 50<i class="currency">l.</i> currency per
+annum. A “soup-house” was erected in the yard attached to the
+superintendent’s dwelling to the east of the church, the land
+being allowed to the society, free of rent, for the space of
+seven years by the heirs of “Donovan’s Estate.” A ship’s boiler
+having been presented to the society, it was immediately put into
+requisition, and the first meal distributed the 2nd of August,
+1828, to thirty-six persons.</p>
+
+<p>Up to that time there was no parochial relief for any black or
+coloured person; and consequently, when the establishment of such
+a society became known, the sick and aged among those classes
+eagerly sought for shelter, and an alleviation of their
+distresses. The medical gentlemen of St. John’s having offered to
+attend gratuitously, in monthly rotation, the cry of these
+unfortunate people was responded to; and five small houses,
+adjoining the “soup-house,” having been first rented, and
+afterwards purchased by the society, fourteen of these afflicted
+ones were received and
+<a id="p254" class="pagenumber" title="Rev. Mr. Holberton."></a>
+succoured. Many a poor outcast found his
+throbbing heart at rest when possessed of these humble
+accommodations; many a sufferer had his pains alleviated, and the
+oil of mercy poured into his wounds. Five or six successful
+amputations were also performed there during that early period.</p>
+
+<p>The rise and progress of this institution is so interesting, that
+I think I cannot do better than follow up the account of it, in
+the words of the Rev. Mr. Holberton, published in a “Brief
+Review:” “After the destructive hurricane of 1835, (when this
+society was found signally useful in furnishing a comfortable
+meal daily to the houseless poor,) the unappropriated residue of
+a grant from the legislature, for restoring some of the damaged
+houses of the poor of St. John’s, was handed over to the
+committee of the Daily Meal Society, with the understanding that
+shelter should be given to those whose houses were considered
+past repairing. This testimony of public confidence, together
+with a handsome private donation of 90<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling, occurring at
+the very time when the land on which the institution had stood
+for seven years was required by the owner, stimulated the
+committee to attempt to re-establish it on a more extensive
+scale.”</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Holberton proceeds to pass some high encomiums upon the Very
+Rev. the Archdeacon Parry (late of Antigua) for the great
+interest felt by him in the success of the society​—​encomiums, no
+doubt, richly his due; but the rector was necessitated to forego
+mentioning what it is in my power to do, that it was principally
+through his own kind heart, and from his deep Christian
+principles, which led him to exert every energy in its behalf,
+that the Daily Meal Society had its origin, and is in its present
+flourishing condition.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. H. proceeds: “Chiefly at his” (the archdeacon’s) “instance, a
+successful application was made to the legislature for a piece of
+land near the rectory, 300 feet long by 100 feet wide. This was
+enclosed with strong palisades, and within were erected a
+kitchen, or ‘soup-house,’ of stone, 30 feet long
+<a id="p255" class="pagenumber" title="Leprosy."></a>
+and 15 wide, a
+wooden house, 60 feet by 20 feet, divided into six apartments,
+capable of accommodating four persons in each. A well was also
+dug 24 feet deep, and four of the wooden houses which stood on
+the old site were transported to the new one. The expense of
+effecting these objects amounted to 1300<i class="currency">l.</i> currency, of which
+about 1000<i class="currency">l.</i> currency was raised by subscriptions. This
+establishment was opened on 8th March, 1837, under the name of
+the <i>Asylum</i>, and has been providentially raised up to meet, in
+the most satisfactory manner, the various cases of distress that
+have occurred since the general emancipation in 1834, and has
+effectually done away with begging in the streets of St.
+John’s.”</p>
+
+<p>As leprosy is a frequent disease among the negroes, and, from its
+contagious character, doubts had arisen upon the propriety of
+admitting persons suffering from that dreadful complaint into the
+asylum, it was determined in 1836 to open a subscription list for
+the purpose of erecting another building for their reception.
+That they might have the benefit of sea-air and sea-bathing, the
+site chosen for it was by the sea-side. This building was
+commenced in 1837, and “although, from want of funds, scarcely
+one of the two wings could be completed, admission was given to
+five leprous persons on the 25th of April in that year.” The
+society, however, “was compelled to declare that, without
+parochial allowances, the institution must fall to the ground.
+The claim to such help was at once seen to be most reasonable and
+highly needful, and the desired combination of <i>parochial</i> with
+<i>voluntary</i> relief was speedily effected. The legislature
+granting 600<i class="currency">l.</i> currency the following year, the debts were paid
+off, and the building finished and publicly opened under the
+title of the Lazaretto, on the 20th June, 1838.”</p>
+
+<p>The Lazaretto consists of “six rooms for females and six for
+males, capable of accommodating three in each, besides one small
+room for one person only. The enclosed yard has been, for the
+most part, converted into plots for provisions,
+<a id="p256" class="pagenumber" title="The Lazaretto."></a>
+and for keeping
+poultry in. Some bamboos have been planted, which will in time
+afford materials for making baskets, about which one of the men
+is industriously employed, and by the sale of his work contrives
+to purchase clothes for himself, at half-price, from the Ladies
+Clothing Society. All the inmates appear thankful and contented,
+and some have shewn a readiness to receive scriptural instruction
+that is very pleasing.” Poor creatures! some of them are,
+indeed, objects for the deepest commiseration, but their
+sufferings are alleviated as far as possible. Their residence is
+a delightful situation; the sea-breeze comes so pure from off the
+bosom of the ocean, that one would suppose disease must fly
+before it. From the farthest point of the land runs a causeway
+over to Rat Island, (the promontory already mentioned as being
+the site of one of the forts,) made about the year 1748, and
+which is passable at ebb-tide. Upon this promontory, which rises
+in the form of a steep mount, a lunatic asylum has been built
+during the past year, (1841,) the legislature having voted a sum
+for that purpose, for the use of such inmates of the institution
+as have shewn symptoms of aberration of mind.</p>
+
+<p>In 1838, the legislature gave a further grant of 500<i class="currency">l.</i> currency
+to the society, for the purpose of erecting “a separate ward for
+the male patients, with ten apartments capable of accommodating
+four persons in each,” in that part of the establishment situated
+near the rectory, which was finished and opened on the 15th July,
+1839. An iron tank, capable of holding 7000 gallons of water, has
+been imported from England, and placed in the yard of the same
+portion of the institution. In 1840, the title of the society was
+changed from that of “The Asylum” to “The Daily Meal Society’s
+Infirmary and Lazaretto,” by which latter designation it is now
+distinguished.</p>
+
+<p>This establishment is, indeed, the only infirmary and hospital in
+the island, (with the exception of the cast-iron hospital at the
+Ridge, near English Harbour, for the use of the troops;) and not
+only the destitute poor of St. John’s, but the
+<a id="p257" class="pagenumber" title="Daily Meal Society."></a>
+poor from all the
+other parishes are admitted into it, as well as distressed and
+destitute sailors. The best medical attendance is procured for
+them; wine and other strengthening nourishment administered to
+the sick; and three wholesome meals allowed to each individual
+per day. Bedsteads and bedding are also supplied, there being “in
+the female ward six, and in the male ward ten furnished
+apartments, ready for the reception of patients at the shortest
+notice.”</p>
+
+<p>Nor are these the <i>only</i> accommodations this inestimable charity
+affords to the poor and distressed of our species, there being
+seven detached houses on the opposite side of the inclosure,
+capable of containing two, three, or four persons in each. “In
+these separate dwellings infirm persons are distributed, whose
+complaints, habits, or tempers, render it expedient that they
+should be kept by themselves. One house, fronting the
+burial-ground, is reserved for the reception of the dead previous
+to interment, and is used for a dissecting room when required.
+Eighty inmates can be comfortably accommodated at the infirmary.”
+The income for the last year, (1841,) including subscriptions,
+donations, legacies, and parochial relief, was 1361<i class="currency">l.</i> 0<i class="currency">s.</i>
+4½<i class="currency">d.</i> currency, the expenditure, 1225<i class="currency">l.</i> 4<i class="currency">s.</i> 4<i class="currency">d.</i>; the
+latter sum would have been of greater extent was it not from the
+kindness of many of the Antiguan proprietors, in presenting each
+a barrel or two of sugar.</p>
+
+<p>Thus have I gone with Mr. Holberton through the “rise and
+progress of the Daily Meal Society.” Perhaps some of the truly
+charitable inhabitants of dear old England may be induced to send
+their mite across the waters in aid of this society, of whose
+existence they may probably not have been hitherto aware; and as
+I knew it was out of my power to use more cogent
+language​—​language which speaks to the heart​—​nor advocate the
+cause so well as our excellent rector, I have therefore quoted so
+largely from his “brief review,” feeling assured he will pardon
+me, and hoping my readers will bear with me. In conclusion, I
+will once more use his words and say​—​“It is undeniable that the
+hand of
+<a id="p258" class="pagenumber" title="Destitute Females’"></a>
+God has been over it to sustain it in its small
+beginning, to uphold it in every difficulty, and to raise it to
+its present prosperity. To God, then, be all the praise; and may
+the success with which He has been pleased to crown the exertions
+of the society provoke every member and friend of it to
+increasing diligence in these works of charity, for which there
+will still be a continual call.”</p>
+
+<p>The next charitable institution to be mentioned is “the Destitute
+Females’ Friend Society,” or, as it is now termed, “the Female
+Orphan Society.” This latter title is, however, a misnomer, for
+but few of the inmates are orphans in the true sense of the word,
+they being, but with few exceptions, the illegitimate children of
+black or coloured women, (by white or coloured persons,) whose
+parents, still alive, are, from penury, incompetent to maintain
+them, or are living in a state of concubinage, and consequently
+not proper guides to youth.</p>
+
+<p>This society, which is invaluable, and is well known in England
+by its first name, although, perhaps, lost sight of in its
+modernized title, was established about the year 1816. The origin
+of it was as follows:—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>“The attention of a few pious and benevolent individuals of the
+female sex was called to the situation of an indigent class of
+coloured children of their own sex, (for whom there was then no
+parochial relief;) and witnessing with feelings of poignant
+regret their moral and religious degradation still more than
+their bodily necessities, they were impelled to exert, in
+connexion with a few other friends, all their united energies for
+the amelioration of the condition of these unhappy children, and
+thereby lessen the evils resulting to the community in general
+from a generation growing up without religious or moral
+cultivation. To effect these desirable objects, it was resolved
+to make an immediate and bold attempt.</p>
+
+<p>“The attempt was bold, because it could not be carried into
+execution by persons circumscribed in their means of doing it
+without the concurrence and aid of others like-minded, and of
+whose co-operation they were not assured. Encouraged, however, by
+one whose heart devised liberal things, though possessing himself
+little power to accomplish them from his own resources, but
+favoured with influence over some who considered themselves as
+stewards appointed by God to benefit their fellow creatures, and
+assured by him of competent aid from England, if
+<a id="p259" class="pagenumber" title="Friend Society."></a>
+it could not be
+obtained in Antigua, a commencement was made by a few
+subscribers, chiefly respectable coloured persons; and several
+children were immediately taken to be clothed, fed, and
+instructed; and when the plan was made known to the community at
+large, and to other benevolent individuals in England and
+Scotland, the society, by their generous assistance, grew into
+its present state of maturity. Such was its origin, and we cannot
+but observe in it the benefit resulting from a social compact to
+do good to our fellow creatures​—​the design to rescue from the
+paths of the destroyer, and to train in those of piety, industry,
+and useful occupation, the objects of their care. The success,
+though not in every instance unfailing, has been considerable. A
+few, there is reason to hope, are where sin and sorrow cannot
+enter. Others, as useful domestics, or conductors of their own
+households, testify to the truth of the fact.</p>
+
+<p>“Three of the elder girls have been sent into creditable
+situations, with a prospect of comfort to themselves and
+usefulness to their employers. Four more have been admitted to
+fill their places. Seventeen are now in the house. The committee
+would not arrogate to themselves any undue merit; but they
+gratefully receive the meed of approbation awarded to them by the
+frequent application they have for the admittance of children,
+and for girls to fill the place of servants.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>I have quoted so largely from the reports of the society (1841)
+for two reasons​—​first, because the committee are, and of course
+ought to be, better acquainted with its proceedings than myself;
+and secondly, because its details are related with a striking
+simplicity of style, which must speak to every breast not devoid
+of the “milk of human kindness,” and I am sure no words of mine
+would be able to influence further the minds of those benevolent
+persons who, through the medium of these pages, may become
+acquainted with its existence, and feel wishful of adding a
+trifle to the funds of this invaluable society.</p>
+
+<p>That it is an invaluable charity none can deny, for it strikes to
+the root of all West Indian misery​—​<i>illicit love</i>; and what can
+be more acceptable to “the community at large” than the
+endeavouring to inculcate into the minds of its youthful members
+the doctrines of chastity and diligence in well-doing? The
+twenty-sixth anniversary of this society was held on the 31st
+December, 1841. The children, inmates of the house, are taught
+reading, writing, and arithmetic, and are instructed in all the
+arts of female plain-work,​—​straw-bonnet
+<a id="p260" class="pagenumber" title="Friendly societies."></a>
+sewing and cleaning
+forming one branch of their employment. Their earnings for the
+last year were 107<i class="currency">l.</i> 0<i class="currency">s.</i> 7½<i class="currency">d.</i> currency, out of which, 5<i class="currency">l.</i>
+13<i class="currency">s.</i> 10½<i class="currency">d.</i> had to be deducted for materials to carry on their
+different works. The matron receives a salary of 60<i class="currency">l.</i> currency
+per annum, and the children are clothed and boarded, and have
+medical attendance found them; and when death sends forth its
+summons, and any of the inmates fall a prey to its inevitable
+shafts, their last resting-place is provided, and the funeral
+expenses paid.</p>
+
+<p>The next institutions worthy of mention are the town and country
+“Friendly Societies.” They are formed upon a similar plan to some
+of the “poor men’s clubs” in England, and prove of great
+assistance to the members in times of sickness and trial. The St.
+John’s Friendly Society was established in 1829, under the
+auspices of that zealous minister, the Rev. R. Holberton, and was
+intended to promote good feelings among the lower classes, to
+assist them in procuring articles of mourning, aid them in times
+of deep distress, help those incapable of helping themselves, and
+encourage sobriety and industry among them.</p>
+
+<p>After the abolition of slavery, in 1834, many of the negroes
+removing from the estates to which they formerly belonged, and
+other estates not finding medical advice for their labourers, as
+in times of slavery, it was found necessary to enlarge the rules
+of the society; and by increasing the amount subscribed by every
+member, provide them with a doctor when ill, a certain sum per
+week during indisposition, and upon demise twelve dollars for the
+funeral expenses.</p>
+
+<p>The first country Friendly Society was established in 1832; but
+since that period they have rapidly increased. “In 1834,” remarks
+Mr. Holberton, “there were eleven societies, with 1602 members;
+in 1835, 4197 members; in 1836, 4560 members.” The Moravians and
+Wesleyans have each their Friendly Societies, formed and
+conducted upon a similar plan.</p>
+
+<p>On the first of January, 1842, I visited St. John’s church,
+<a id="p261" class="pagenumber" title="Bible Society."></a>
+to
+hear the anniversary sermon preached to the society. The members
+met at the parochial school-room, where they formed into a
+procession, the women first, and the men following behind, and
+marched to the church, headed by the Very Rev. the Archdeacon,
+the Rev. Mr. Holberton, the rector, the Rev. Mr. Piggott, and the
+Rev. Mr. Saulez. The morning service having been performed, and a
+very suitable and excellent sermon preached by the Rev. Mr.
+Piggott, the members again formed into ranks, and marched back to
+the school-room, where the report of the society was read, short
+addresses made, and refreshments handed round, when the whole
+party dispersed. I could not help remarking the smart appearance
+of the members​—​such rainbow ribbons, and stylish bonnets​—​such
+parasols and sandals​—​such blue coats and white trowsers!​—​as made
+their appearance on that day would surprise any one.</p>
+
+<p>The next society, which by-the-bye ought to have been mentioned
+first, as being the oldest in the island, is the Bible Society,
+organized in 1815. It is comprised of every sect and shade in the
+island, and its interests are managed by an efficient committee.
+After the abolition of slavery in 1834, the parent society sent a
+“munificent grant, by which a choice portion of the Holy
+Scriptures was gratuitously circulated to about one-third of the
+inhabitants of this colony. Nine thousand seven hundred copies of
+the New Testament, bound together with the Book of Psalms, were
+thus placed at the disposal of the committee.”</p>
+
+<p>The remaining societies are the “Missionary Associations”
+connected with the Wesleyan mission, established in 1820, and
+intended for the purpose of raising funds for the parent society
+in England. The “Temperance Society,” introduced into Antigua in
+the year 1836; the “Juvenile Association,” established 1815; the
+“Ladies Clothing Society,” (or Dorcas Society,) and two other
+associations belonging to the established church, and known as
+the “Society for the Promotion of Christian Knowledge,” and the
+“Branch Association of the Society for the advancing the
+Christian
+<a id="p262" class="pagenumber" title="The banks."></a>
+Faith in the British West Indies, &amp;c.” The Moravians
+have also a Missionary society, established in 1839.</p>
+
+<p>Having now gone through the charitable institutions, I must
+proceed to mention the “Banks,” of which there are two in the
+island​—​the “Colonial Bank,” incorporated by royal charter, 1836;
+and the “West Indian Bank,” in 1840. The first of these banks
+issues a very neat note, (from five dollars [1<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling] and
+upwards,) bearing a lithographed representation of the royal
+arms, and encircled with a very prettily designed border; but the
+“West Indian” disseminates the most frightful “paper money” I
+ever witnessed. Some of their notes are <i>red</i>, and others <i>blue</i>;
+who was the designer of the “arms” which grace the head of them I
+know not, but they appear to be in direct opposition to all laws
+of heraldry. The shield (of an oblong figure) is divided into
+<i>three</i> quarterings: 1st, or, an eagle (apparently) sable,
+beaked, rising from the sea; 2nd, gules, a ship full-rigged,
+argent; 3rd, azure, a castle, argent, battled. The supporters are
+two dwarfish cocoa-nut trees, (palm?) apparently springing from
+the same root as their companions, two gigantic pine-apples; the
+whole surmounted by the crown of England. With regard to the
+benefit which the establishment of these banks has rendered the
+country, various opinions have been formed.</p>
+
+<p>After the “Banks,” the only remaining institution to be mentioned
+is the “Antigua Library Society,” which according to its “rules
+and regulations,” is devoted to “the gradual formation of a
+permanent library of general literature, and the establishment,
+in connexion with the library, of a reading-room, to be furnished
+with newspapers, journals, pamphlets, periodicals, and other new
+publications.”</p>
+
+<p>Now it is well known that we live in an age of puffing, as well
+as steaming, and it may be imagined by some, that these caterers
+for intellectual sweets have fallen short of their promises. Not
+so, kind readers; take my word for it there are few better
+organized societies of the kind to be met
+<a id="p263" class="pagenumber" title="Library Society."></a>
+with, or whose
+well-filled shelves bear a richer burden. Books to suit every
+taste (and every <i>age</i> I might say​—​for our friend “Peter Parley”
+displays there the hidden treasures of the “earth, the sea, and
+skies,” to the delight of the youthful reader,) may be found in
+this Library Society. Theological, metaphysical, biographical,
+historical, and lighter works, abound. Poetry is not excluded;
+our own sweet bards, from good old Chaucer, that “father of
+English poetry,” down to the soft strains of Mrs. Hemans, or L.
+E. L., rank among its selections.</p>
+
+<p>Of modern works there are no end. There, the irresistible charms
+of that “Wizard of the North,” the late Sir Walter Scott, with
+his “Jenny Deans;” his high-minded “Flora McIvor;” his
+unfortunate “Bride of Lammermoor,” and all his other “gentle
+dames” and “lordly knights,” are displayed before the enraptured
+reader. There Marryat amuses with his <i lang="fr">naïveté</i>, and those
+stirring incidents of a sailor’s life, he knows so well to
+picture. There, “Boz” carries you perforce from the hut to the
+castle, and makes you weep or laugh in each. There are Bulwer and
+Ainsworth, who draw their gentlemen-ruffians in such a guise as
+to lead one to admire even a housebreaker or highwayman; Cooper,
+who makes us long to lead the life of a backwood’s-man; James,
+with his darling peeps at “by-gone days;” the dear Miss Mitford
+and Mary Howitt, whose simple annals and sylvan scenes almost
+bring before us the lovely fields and sweet flowers of England;
+Mrs. Gore, with all her pageantries; Mrs. Trollope, with her
+playful but keen sarcasms; the Countess of Blessington, with her
+elegant diction and pure imagery, as lovely as her own sweet
+form; with many other authors of note, are equally at the command
+of the subscribers to this Antiguan bibliotheca.</p>
+
+<p>This society has been established for many years, but it was not
+incorporated by an act of the legislature until 1839, during the
+government of Sir Wm. Colebrooke. The members are elected by
+ballot, and after subscribing for ten
+<a id="p264" class="pagenumber" title="Early rising."></a>
+years, they become free of the library, retaining all the privileges
+without being called upon for payment.</p>
+
+<p>The library is kept in the upper part of a large house, well
+adapted for the purpose, consisting as it does of two good sized
+apartments, with library tables, covered with respectable green
+cloth, and pamphlets of all sorts and sizes; the sides of the
+room are lined with bookcases. Altogether it is an admirable
+society, and I strenuously advise all inhabitants of Antigua,
+whose ideas are not absolutely tied down to “profit and loss,” to
+become members; they cannot spend their spare money more
+agreeably, nor while away their leisure to better purpose.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch22" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Early rising and “Jamie Thomson”​—​Journey to
+English Harbour​—​Windmills and Don Quixote​—​Groups of
+negroes and their equipages​—​All Saints’ chapel of
+ease​—​The “Hamlet”​—​Village of Liberta​—​Grace
+Hill​—​Patterson’s and Prince William​—​English Harbour
+market​—​Streets and dwellings​—​Commissariat’s store and
+government tank​—​Dockyard​—​The
+superintendent​—​Stores and storehouses​—​Engineer’s
+workshop​—​Blacksmith’s shop and blowing machine​—​Limes and
+roses​—​Recollections of England​—​Lieutenant Peterson and
+Lord Camelford​—​His lordship’s pranks​—​The
+ordnance​—​Clarence House and Dows Hill​—​The Ridge and
+“Shirley heights”​—​Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley​—​Bats
+Cave​—​The Savannah and its tombs​—​Indian
+Creek​—​Return to town.</p>
+
+<p class="init">The church clock proclaimed the hour of five, as a gentle rap
+came at my chamber door. Awakened from a pleasant dream, I
+started from my couch, and heard with something like vexation,
+that it was time to dress, in order to prosecute our intended
+journey to English Harbour.</p>
+
+<p>Beautiful as is the breath of “early morn,” still there is
+something very disagreeable in leaving your comfortable bed, and
+it may be, your gorgeous dreams, for the dull realities of life,
+and the necessary, but irksome duties of the
+<a id="p265" class="pagenumber" title="Jamie Thomson."></a>
+toilet. I know I
+shall be cried down by all lovers of Nature for my unsentimental
+remarks. Thomson, enraptured with his subject “of early rising,”
+exclaims with all a poet’s fervour—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">Falsely luxurious, will not man awake,<br/>
+    And, springing from the bed of sloth, enjoy<br/>
+    The cool, the fragrant, and the silent hour,<br/>
+    To meditation due and sacred song?<br/>
+    For is there aught in sleep can charm the wise?<br/>
+    To lie in dead oblivion, losing half<br/>
+    The fleeting moments of too short a life—<br/>
+    Total extinction of th’ enlighten’d soul!<br/>
+    Or else to feverish vanity alive,<br/>
+    Wilder’d, and tossing through distemper’d dreams,<br/>
+    Who would in such a gloomy state remain<br/>
+    Longer than nature craves—when every muse<br/>
+    And every blooming pleasure wait without,<br/>
+    To bless the wildly devious morning walk.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Now, all this sounds very pretty​—​very romantic indeed; and we
+begin to fancy the poet amid some “bosky dell,” or upland lawn,
+his shoes liberally bedewed with those glittering gems, which
+“hang in every cowslip’s bell,” and his unpowdered locks
+streaming behind him in the morning gale. But stay, gentle
+reader! hast thou not heard that Thomson was himself a very
+sluggard, and loved his warm bed far better than any sylvan scene
+he could so well describe? And in truth, many and many a poet,
+even to “Joanna Bailey,” the morning rhymester, has been of the
+same mind. Then, why should I not tell the truth, and own my
+sloth​—​although at the same time, when once abroad, no one feels
+the nameless “melodies of morn” more than I do.</p>
+
+<p>But to resume my subject: the incidents of a day’s journey to
+English Harbour. After partaking of a light breakfast, and
+quaffing of that cup “which cheers, but not inebriates,” we
+stepped into the phaeton, and drove through the town, leaving our
+friends in “Scotch-row” busily employed in arranging their
+incongruous goods to the best advantage.</p>
+
+<p>The day was very favourable to our undertaking, for it was fine,
+but overcast. The sun was robbed of his extreme lustre by the
+intervention of various clouds, which passed
+<a id="p266" class="pagenumber" title="English Harbour."></a>
+along the sky in
+many beautiful forms. Some dark as ebon night; others of a
+silverish grey; the eastern ones tinged with gold and purple;
+while some again looked so white and fleecy, that you could fancy
+them so many snow-wreaths spread out upon an ocean of blue. The
+lights and shadows, too, of the far mountains, with all their
+blended tints, were beautiful objects in the landscape; and the
+occasional sight of a herd or two of cattle, standing in their
+usual dreamy posture, completed the picture. We passed several
+windmills (used in grinding the sugar-cane) with their sails
+unfurled, and going round merrily in the breeze; but unlike Don
+Quixote, I took them not for so many giants, nor wished myself a
+knight-errant, that I might rescue the “beautiful and high-born
+damsels” from their clutches.</p>
+
+<p>The road to English Harbour is, however, for the most part dull
+and uninteresting; only here and there a pretty prospect attracts
+the eye. But on this day (Monday<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref84" href="#note84">84</a>]</sup>) it was rendered more
+cheerful by the groups of negroes, who, of every age and sex,
+were coming into town to purchase their weekly stores. Baskets,
+trays, and boxes​—​all kinds of vessels, indeed​—​were placed in
+critical positions upon their heads; but this appeared to cause
+no impediment to their ambling gait, while the chatter and song
+among themselves, and the smile and courtesy as they passed us,
+with the accustomed “How d’ye, massa?” “How d’ye, missis?” shewed
+that they considered their errand as one of pleasure rather than
+of toil. Carts were also put into requisition by the more
+extensive purchasers; some drawn by a ragged Canadian pony,
+similar to the little Sheltie breed; others by a tall
+grim-looking American horse, with its bones sticking out as bare
+as “Rozinante’s;” and others again dragged along by a slight-made
+<a id="p267" class="pagenumber" title="All Saints’ Chapel of Ease."></a>
+Creole, its mane and tail the colour of flax. Cattle carts were
+also bringing in loads of sugar, drawn by six miserable-looking
+oxen two abreast, their poor necks weighed down by the heavy
+wooden yokes.</p>
+
+<p>In one part of the road we passed All Saints’ chapel of ease,
+belonging to the parish of St. John’s. It is a very plain
+building, surmounted by a gothic pinnacle, answering the purpose
+of a steeple, with an aperture in the middle, intended, I
+suppose, for the admission of a bell.</p>
+
+<p>After passing a ruined estate, where the long grass grew upon the
+walls of a roofless building, once used as a boiling house, and
+accomplishing a steep descent, and one or two abrupt turnings in
+the road, we came to a cluster of houses, known by the title of
+“the hamlet.” Many of these rural dwellings are very neatly built
+of native stone; and their little gardens appear to be well
+stocked with the country produce, such as potatoes, peas, eddoes,
+arrowroot, &amp;c. A short distance from the hamlet is another
+similar collection of dwellings, bearing the name of “the village
+of Liberta,” (as a painted board informed us,) and equally
+abundant in its bright green patches of edibles. The emancipation
+of the negroes, and their desire to possess a portion of the soil
+in perpetuity, gave rise to these villages, of which there are
+many in different parts of the island. Here they erect small
+houses, and plant ground provisions. Some of these little
+dwellings are very neatly constructed, being raised a little
+distance from the ground, and the front door graced with a flight
+of steps and a small portico, while the open windows are
+furnished with white curtains.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining the “village of Liberta,” lies the Moravian settlement
+of Grace Hill, snugly ensconced in its leafy fence, and, like
+other settlements of the kind in this island, breathing an air of
+happy tranquillity.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Grace Hill, and travelling on some distance, we arrived
+at an estate called Patterson’s, belonging to the Hon. John
+Athill, and celebrated in Antiguan history, as
+<a id="p268" class="pagenumber" title="Monk’s Hill."></a>
+being the spot where the murder of the governor’s child was
+perpetrated, (already narrated in the legend of Ding a Ding
+Nook,) on the occasion of the abduction of his lady in 1640.
+The “great house” upon this estate was honoured by a visit
+from our late lamented monarch, William IV., who in 1798
+passed a night there.</p>
+
+<p>We here once again came within sight of the sea, which greatly
+added to the attractions of the scene, while on our left hand
+rose Monk’s Hill, surmounted by its fortifications, and strewed
+in some parts with ruined Carib’s houses. Passing through the
+town of Falmouth, we gained a kind of marsh, dotted over with
+clumps of aquatic shrubs, and here and there opening to the sea,
+and in a few moments entered the village of “English Harbour.”
+The market is just at its entrance, and consisted, upon the day
+we visited it, of about ten or twelve persons, squatting on the
+ground, and having before them shallow wooden trays, containing a
+few country vegetables, a miserable-looking chicken or two, a few
+strings of strong-scented fish, a store of sun-burnt bread, and
+other similar luxuries!</p>
+
+<p>The houses are in general of very mean construction, and
+destitute of paint. There are, however, some very pleasant
+residences belonging to the crown, from which beautiful sea-views
+may be obtained; for the village is built along the margin of the
+sea, and in some parts the waves come rippling up to the very
+street, and wet the feet of the passengers. Dogs and ducks were
+enjoying themselves in the water,​—​the former dashing in and out,
+and rolling in the sand, while the latter, with their eyes almost
+closed, were resting upon their glassy couch, in all the luxury
+of idleness.</p>
+
+<p>Before entering the dockyard, we passed the commissariat stores;
+and on the opposite side of the road, a large tank, capable of
+containing 240 tons of water, built by the legislature for the
+use of the shipping, but from which the inhabitants of the
+village are allowed to draw water, the dockyard being so well
+supplied with those necessary reservoirs. This tank bears many a
+sculptured name; among the rest,
+<a id="p269" class="pagenumber" title="The Dockyard."></a>
+that of “Nelson,” that
+laurel-crowned hero, who visited Antigua in 1784.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref85" href="#note85">85</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>A pair of strong, well-secured gates guard the entrance to the
+dockyard; which being thrown open, we drove in, and alighted at
+the office of the superintendant of the establishment,
+preparatory to inspecting the accommodations of the place.</p>
+
+<p>The dockyard consists of two separate departments. The first,
+since entitled St. Helena, was commenced in 1726, during the
+administration of John Hart, Esq., and at the suggestion of Capt.
+Francis Cooper, commander of H. M. S. “Lynn,” and Capt. Arthur
+Del Garno, commander of H. M. S. “South Sea Castle.” These
+experienced and clever naval officers saw the advantage of having
+proper wharfs, &amp;c. for careening ships in Antigua, instead of
+being obliged to despatch the vessels appointed to this station,
+to the northern colonies, when any repairs were necessary, as
+they had before been in the practice of doing. The land chosen,
+as being most applicable to the purpose, consisted of two
+portions, of ten acres each, which in 1718 had been granted to
+Joseph Green, and William Greatrix, privates in H.M. troops,
+<a id="p270" class="pagenumber" title="Joseph Hart, Esq."></a>
+disbanded in consequence of the cessation of war. These lands
+were, however, forfeited to the crown by the non-settlement of
+them, by the grantees; and they were consequently appropriated to
+the purpose of establishing a dockyard, which is now not to be
+equalled in this part of the globe.</p>
+
+<p>This establishment having proved of such advantage to Antigua,
+and the rest of the Leeward Islands, his majesty, George II.,
+ordered that another wharf, with magazines, stores, and other
+appendages, should be constructed. Accordingly, in 1743, a tract
+of land was purchased from Thomas Bodkin; five acres of which was
+to be appropriated for the site of the new naval buildings; and
+the remainder to be allotted to poor white settlers, at the
+discretion of the commander-in-chief, the council, and assembly
+of Antigua. Such was the origin of the village of English
+Harbour, which, on account of being principally crown property,
+is disfranchised.</p>
+
+<p>The dockyard presents a fine and noble appearance; and under the
+able superintendence of Joseph Hart, Esq., everything seems to be
+conducted in the best possible manner; while the yard itself is
+kept so beautifully clean, that a walk through it affords real
+pleasure. The exertions of Mr. Hart may perhaps be better
+appreciated when it is considered that only six labourers are
+allowed him to perform all necessary duties; and that these men
+are also liable to be called upon by the pilot, at a moment’s
+notice, whenever that officer is employed in piloting vessels of
+war in or out of the harbour.</p>
+
+<p>The storehouses upon St. Helena are principally used for storing
+coals, and in consequence, her majesty’s steam-vessels frequent
+more that side of the dock. The largest ships of war (that visit
+these seas) can go alongside this wharf when necessary.</p>
+
+<p>On the south of St. Helena lies “Freeman’s Bay,” where such of H.
+M. vessels as are intended to remain but a short time generally
+anchor; the offing being more readily gained from thence than
+when further in.</p>
+
+<p>The last-erected part of this naval establishment, or “the
+<a id="p271" class="pagenumber" title="Offices."></a>
+dockyard,” as it is more generally called, is separated from St.
+Helena by the blue waters of the dock, and contains various
+buildings, of which I shall first mention the commissioner’s
+room, and pay offices, (under one roof,) as that was the first
+place I visited. The commissioner’s room is a very pleasant
+apartment, with windows to the east and west, and folding-doors
+to the south opening upon a small stone terrace, with a flight of
+steps leading to the wharf beneath. From this terrace a
+delightful view may be obtained. St. Helena lies exactly
+opposite, its warehouses reflected in the clear, blue sea, which
+flows at your feet; on your left, Clarence House, and the
+adjacent country; while, on your right, the mouth of the harbour,
+guarded with its forts, and the blue ocean, with its snowy
+crested waves, blends with the sky in the distance. In the
+apartment itself are considerable quantities of Psalters and New
+Testaments, designed, I suppose, for the use of the naval seamen;
+but those annoying pests, the cock-roaches, have made sad work
+with the bindings. Leaving this room, we walked into the pay
+offices, divided by blue railings, into the commissioner’s
+office, master shipwright’s office, master attendant’s office,
+and storekeeper’s office; as the several white-lettered
+inscriptions informed me. These paying offices are all contained
+in one apartment, measuring about 8 feet by 4 feet. They must not
+be corpulent persons who occupy them, or they will be less at
+their ease than poor “Hudibras” was in the “Wooden Bastile.”</p>
+
+<p>Descending another flight of stone steps, we crossed part of the
+yard, and arrived at the naval officers’ quarters, a very
+pleasant and handsome building, along which runs a pretty
+verandah, commanding a similar view to that obtained from the
+terrace of the commissioner’s room. Underneath these quarters, is
+the principal tank, divided into twelve compartments, and capable
+of containing 1000 tuns of water. From this tank pipes pass
+under-ground, to the edge of the wharf, (a distance of a hundred
+feet,) which being furnished with a cock, the water can be turned
+into the casks at pleasure;
+<a id="p272" class="pagenumber" title="Stores and storehouses."></a>
+or, when in great haste, another pipe is fixed from
+thence into the hold of the ship, which in this manner receives
+its proper allowance of water, at a distance of 100
+feet from shore.</p>
+
+<p>A few paces from the officers’ quarters, stands a large building,
+100 feet by 90 feet, used as a copper, steamer’s, and lumber
+store; attached to which are four semi-circular tanks, capable of
+holding ten tuns of water each. Passing from this, we came to the
+cordage, sail, canvass, and clothing store, of a similar size;
+and opposite to which, at the distance of about ten feet, is the
+working mast-house, (100 feet square,) and joiners’ loft above.
+In this building a party of men were busily employed in making a
+new mast for H. M. schooner, “Fair Rosamond,” which, having met
+with an accident, a few days before, had put into Antigua to
+repair. Parallel with this building is another working
+mast-house, and joiners’ loft above, of similar dimensions to the
+former, used also for the accommodation of the yard engines.</p>
+
+<p>Peeping into a snug little box, called the porter’s
+lodge, and passing the guard house, store for condemned
+articles, and paint store, we entered the boat-house.
+By this time the sun had gained its meridian height,
+and poured a blaze of light over the whole yard, which,
+reflected from the white, sandy ground, dazzled my eyes
+with its powerful radiance, and oppressed me with its
+excessive heat. As I entered then this building, how delightful
+did its cooling air strike upon me!​—​how sweet was
+the breeze which passed over my brow, and allayed its
+throbbing! while the gentle plash of the water sounded
+most musically to the ear. One part of the boat-house is
+floored; the other has a channel cut in it to the depth of 18
+feet, for the admission of the water. The roof is supported
+by 16 round stone pillars, of 12 feet in circumference; and
+above is a loft, where ships’-sails are kept. Leaving the
+boat-house, we entered the tar and block stores, where we
+<a id="p273" class="pagenumber" title="Blacksmith’s shop."></a>
+found a part of the crew of the “Fair Rosamond” employed
+in making <i>spun-yarn</i>, used for the purpose of lashing, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>About 20 feet distant, is a building containing painter’s cabin
+for grinding paint, and the engineer’s office, beneath is a lead
+cellar. We next visited the engineer’s workshop, where we were
+agreeably entertained with seeing the cutting and punching
+machine put into motion. I am not engineer enough to describe
+this machine in a technical manner, and must therefore only
+remark that, by means of an oblong wheel, if I may be allowed the
+expression, worked by two men, it is capable of cutting through
+the thickest piece of cold iron, with the same ease and quickness
+a person would cut a scrap of paper, and at the same time,
+punching holes of about the diameter of a shilling through
+another piece of the same metal. We also saw a turning-lathe
+capable of turning any description of iron from three inches to
+28 in diameter. There were also innumerable machines, of other
+forms, and for various purposes, which were put into motion for
+our amusement; and a piece of the iron, which had been cut and
+punched in divers figures, was tendered to me​—​a memento of an
+engineer’s workshop in a West Indian dockyard.</p>
+
+<p>The next place we entered was one more suited to a hyperborean
+climate than an Antiguan noonday​—​a blacksmith’s shop. Here, six
+forges can be worked; and several Cyclops ply their skill amid
+their dingy implements. To these forges, immense bellows “turned
+their iron mouths,” and, impelled by swarthy hands, sent forth a
+shower of glittering sparks. We also saw, two patent blowing
+machines, manufactured by “Thomas, late Halley and Co.,” which,
+by a peculiar arrangement, propels the blast upwards and
+downwards at the same time. The master blacksmith worked them for
+a few moments, but informed us they had not so much power as the
+first pair of bellows we observed upon our entrance, which, from
+its magnitude, ought to be called the “King of the Bellows.” He
+bid us place ourselves
+<a id="p274" class="pagenumber" title="Roses."></a>
+before the mouth of this last-mentioned
+pair, and we should be convinced of the truth of his assertions;
+but as I felt no wish to be blown away in a gale of ashes, I
+declined the invitation, humbly subscribing to his superior
+knowledge in such matters. I could not help thinking, that had
+Eolus known the use of these “blowing-machines,” what a far more
+powerful wind he might have raised, than (as it is pictured he
+did) by employing the sons of Astræus to blow so painfully with
+their distended cheeks amid his mighty caverns.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the blacksmith’s shop, we passed the sawpit shed and
+smaller tank, and the shipwright’s house, and then turning an
+acute angle, came to a very pleasant residence, occupied by the
+superintendent of the yard, Mr. Hart. Here I met with some of my
+favourite lime-trees, their pearly flowers redolent with perfume.
+Mr. Hart kindly plucked for us some of the golden fruit; and
+afterwards presented, what was dearer to me, from the
+recollections they call up, three beautiful roses.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref86" href="#note86">86</a>]</sup> I may be
+laughed at for being so fanciful, but I never see a rose, I never
+inhale its rich fragrance, without wandering in imagination
+through the flowery gardens of my own land. “Oh! England, my own
+dear country! never did one of thy children love thee better than
+I do! In the midst of sickness, in the midst of suffering​—​when
+the fervour of a tropical sun burns through my very frame, and
+the climate throws its languor around me​—​my mind still reverts to
+thy verdant fields, I see again thy hawthorn-hedges with all
+their snowy blossoms, thy carpeting of lovely lowly flowers,​—​I
+breathe thy countless odours,​—​I hear thy sweet-toned birds, or
+the soft chime of thy village bells, and feel upon ‘my very cheek
+thy bland and healthy breeze.’”</p>
+
+<p>But to return to Mr. Hart and his roses. I kept them through the
+hot day, bore them in safety to my home, and
+<a id="p275" class="pagenumber" title="Lieutenant Peterson."></a>
+they now stand
+before me. But, alas! their beauty is all gone,​—​their discoloured
+leaves seem to mourn their own dishonour; and only that “the
+scent of the roses hangs round it still,” I should scarcely know
+what the vase contains.</p>
+
+<p>After resting in a cool apartment for some time, and taking a
+glass of lemonade which Pomona herself would not have refused,
+the carriage was ordered to the door, and we were in the act of
+stepping in, when it occurred to us that this was a good
+opportunity to visit the spot where Lieut. Peterson received his
+death wound.</p>
+
+<p>I have already mentioned, in the historical part of this work,
+this unfortunate incident, but, with the permission of my
+readers, I must again allude to it. At the time of the
+occurrence, Lord Camelford commanded the “Favourite,” sloop of
+war, and Commodore Fahie the ship “Perdrix,” Mr. Peterson holding
+the rank of first lieutenant on board the last-named vessel.
+Commodore Fahie had left Antigua a short time before, to take
+temporary command of the fleet, then anchored before St.
+Kitts,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref87" href="#note87">87</a>]</sup> and during his absence, Lieutenant Peterson was, of
+course, left in command of the “Perdrix.”</p>
+
+<p>It was the custom, in those troubled days of warfare, for boats
+to row backwards and forwards across the harbour during the hours
+of night, the sailors of the different ships in the dock, headed
+by one of their officers, taking it by turns to keep this watch;
+and the sleeper might often be roused from his dreams as the
+deep-toned <i>all’s well</i> resounded through the still night air.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Camelford and Lieutenant Peterson were unhappily
+at variance; and, perhaps to mortify his rival, Lord
+Camelford ordered Mr. Peterson to take the watch upon
+the very evening that a gay ball was to be given at Blacks
+Point to the naval officers. Unfortunately Lieutenant
+Peterson entertained the idea that as he was in command
+of the <i>ship</i> “Perdrix,” in the absence of Commodore
+<a id="p276" class="pagenumber" title="Lord Camelford."></a>
+Fahie, he was superior officer to Lord Camelford,
+who only commanded a sloop; and, in consequence of this
+false impression, he positively refused to obey his lordship’s
+orders.</p>
+
+<p>The disastrous evening approached, and the lieutenant retired to
+his quarters above the capstan-house, in order to dress for the
+festive party. Arming himself with a pair of loaded pistols, and
+telling his boat’s crew to attend him, Lord Camelford quitted his
+retirement, and stationed himself directly between the capstan
+house and the guard house, (now called the commissioner’s house,)
+and there waited the approach of Mr. Peterson, whom he had
+already summoned to attend him.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the unfortunate young officer making his appearance,
+accompanied by some of his friends, his lordship again commanded
+him to take charge of the watch for the evening​—​the command was
+again refused​—​when, taking one of the pistols from his bosom,
+Lord Camelford immediately fired, and the ball passing through
+the breast of the brave, but inconsiderate lieutenant, he fell a
+corpse upon the ground, the deadly stream welling from the wound,
+and staining, as it flowed, the gay ball-dress which he wore.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner did the well-aimed weapon do its work, than, drawing
+the other from its resting-place, his lordship turned to the
+second lieutenant of the “Perdrix,” and pointing it at him, asked
+if he would obey his orders, or meet the same punishment as Mr.
+Peterson? Life is sweet! The second in command saw his friend
+stretched at his feet with the red blood gurgling around him, and
+fearing the same fate, he obeyed Lord Camelford, and took the
+watch.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, duty! what a stern goddess thou art! or else how much art
+thou belied, for the deed was laid to thy charge. He disobeyed
+his superior officer, and in the midst of health, of buoyant
+feelings, and without, perhaps, time to think of a <i>hereafter</i>,
+he was to <i>die</i>. I can never more pass those sunken anchors which
+mark the tragic spot, without thinking of the mournful fate of
+this self-deceived mutineer, poor Lieutenant
+<a id="p277" class="pagenumber" title="Brutal conduct of Lord Camelford."></a>
+Peterson, or fancying I can see him in his death throes,
+stretched upon that sandy ground by the hand of him who
+had been once his friend.</p>
+
+<p>This circumstance was not the only one that caused Lord
+Camelford’s name to be well known in Antigua. Upon another
+occasion he went to Mr. Kitto, then superintendent of the
+naval-yard, and informed him he wanted certain alterations made
+on board the vessel of war he commanded. Mr. Kitto, in the
+mildest terms, acquainted his lordship that he could not oblige
+him, as it would be going beyond his warrant. To this refusal the
+angry officer made no reply, but immediately going on board his
+ship, he summoned his boatswain to his presence, and ordered him
+to provide himself with a cat-of-nine-tails, and hold himself in
+readiness to accompany him ashore.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of a short time, Lord Camelford, the boatswain, and
+his mate, and a few of the crew of the “Favourite,” proceeded to
+the dockyard, and a message was despatched to Mr. Kitto, desiring
+his attendance.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the arrival of the superintendent, Lord Camelford again
+demanded to know if he would accede to his wishes, at the same
+time giving a pretty broad hint that, in case of refusal, his
+back should be visited by the “Cat.” Mr. Kitto once more
+observed, “It would be going beyond my warrant,” when, as he
+uttered these words, at a signal from his lordship, the
+unfortunate superintendent was seized, and twelve dozen lashes
+inflicted with no unsparing hand by the boatswain of the
+“Favourite.”</p>
+
+<p>This illegal and brutal conduct was not, however, passed over; a
+complaint was laid against Lord Camelford, and the case was
+investigated at the court house. Upon the day of trial, as may be
+supposed, the court was thronged with spectators; the assault was
+proved, and bail was about to be demanded, when his lordship
+begged permission to retire for a short time. His request was
+complied with; but no sooner had he gained the outer gate of the
+court house, than, seizing a horse which some gentleman visitant
+had fastened
+<a id="p278" class="pagenumber" title="Escape of Lord Camelford."></a>
+to the iron palisading, he mounted, and rode away in direction
+of English Harbour as fast as the animal could be
+urged.</p>
+
+<p>In a moment all was confusion. “The prisoner’s escaped!” was the
+universal cry; and as the truth became known within the court
+house, various were the individuals who hurried forth, mounted
+their horses, and joined in the pursuit. The Honourable Edward
+Byam was then president of the island, and with the same high
+spirit of equity which has ever marked that family, and unbiassed
+by the rank of the offender, he immediately threw up one of the
+windows of the court-house, and shouted​—​“A hundred pounds for his
+recapture​—​a hundred pounds for his head!”</p>
+
+<p>On kept Lord Camelford, (almost overtaken by one of the
+constables, a very athletic man, of the name of White,) until at
+length the horse he was riding fell down from exhaustion, and
+obliged his lordship to take refuge in an adjoining cane-field.
+Upon the party who were in pursuit gaining the place of his
+retreat, a sudden stand was made. The rabble who had joined the
+party, and some of the horsemen, were stationed around the
+cane-field; while the constables, with a few attendants, and
+several dogs, entered the precincts of the field, and literally
+hunted the offending lord through its tangled mazes, until,
+overcome with fatigue, and unarmed, he was taken by his pursuers.</p>
+
+<p>In the escape, Lord Camelford’s hat had fallen off, and he was
+therefore placed upon a horse bareheaded; and in this manner,
+surrounded by the officials, and followed by all the riff-raff of
+“St. John’s and its environs,” he was brought back, and once more
+placed before the court. Lord Camelford was ordered to find bail
+for his appearance at the sessions. The amount of his
+recognisances was 5000<i class="currency">l.</i>; Walter Colquhoun and Walter Riddle,
+Esqs., standing sureties for his forthcoming. Upon his lordship’s
+return to English Harbour, he drew bills for the amount, (for
+which his sureties would have been liable by his departure, had
+he not
+<a id="p279" class="pagenumber" title="The Ridge."></a>
+taken this precaution,) and then proceeded on board his ship
+“Favourite,” made sail, and quitted the shores of Antigua,
+with no very enviable feelings, it is to be supposed.</p>
+
+<p>The forfeited money was devoted to the purpose of sinking wells,
+(or springs, as they are termed in the West Indian idiom,) for
+the accommodation of the inhabitants of St. John’s; and
+accordingly, a party of negroes were employed to prosecute the
+work.</p>
+
+<p>They commenced their labours at the head of the town, opposite to
+where the Scotch kirk is now building; but after digging to a
+great depth, and still finding no appearance of water, they
+became seriously alarmed, and unanimously refused to proceed,
+giving as their excuse, “that dey heard all de cocks crowing in
+de oder world!”</p>
+
+<p>To return to the incidents of our day’s journey to English
+Harbour. After leaving the scene of Lieutenant Peterson’s death,
+we once more walked round by the superintendant’s residence,
+admiring as we went the neat manner in which the ponderous
+anchors and various-sized buoys were arranged; and then bidding
+the dockyard farewell, proceeded on our way to the Ridge, which,
+as its name implies, is the upper ground of a gentle ascent,
+appropriated to the erection of barracks, and other military
+establishments, for the accommodation of her majesty’s troops.
+Before I proceed to describe the rest of the Antigua “<i>lions</i>,” I
+must be allowed to remark, that, although in my life I have
+visited many public buildings in England, as well as in other
+parts of the globe, I never met with more politeness, from the
+lowest to the highest of the officials, than I experienced at
+this English Harbour naval establishment.</p>
+
+<p>A few paces from the dockyard, on the road to the Ridge, we
+passed the ordnance, consisting of two separate departments,
+divided from each other by an arm of the sea​—​one used as a
+store-place for guns and balls, the other for the reception of
+powder. These deadly weapons were so neatly arranged, the
+different sizes forming different
+<a id="p280" class="pagenumber" title="Shirley Heights."></a>
+tiers, and the balls were so
+prettily packed in the form of pyramids​—​the day was so fine, the
+sea so blue, and the buildings themselves so spruce, in their
+uniform of light yellow picked out with black, that I was quite
+enraptured with the picture​—​forgot the <i>use</i> they were intended
+for, nor thought how many heart-broken wives and desolate orphans
+had wept, with tears like blood, the carnage such instruments had
+effected.</p>
+
+<p>The road wound up the ascent, which is continued until the Ridge
+is gained. On one side stands a very pretty residence, known as
+“Clarence House,” belonging to the queen, and one of the
+dwellings the superintendent of the naval yard has under his
+control; and on the other side of the road rises “Dow’s Hill,”
+surmounted by the country-seat of the governor. In this part of
+the road, a stone, marked with an anchor, points out the boundary
+of the naval ground; and on the other side of the stone, the land
+appropriated to the military commences.</p>
+
+<p>Still following the ascent, in process of time we gained the
+engineers’ quarters, the first building which marks the Ridge;
+and opposite to it is the victualling office. Passing by the
+officers’ quarters, the barracks for the privates, the several
+storehouses, and the iron hospital, for the reception of invalid
+soldiers, we stood upon the utmost verge of the place bearing the
+title of <i>Shirley</i> Heights, so named after one of the former
+governors, Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart. A very beautiful view may be
+obtained from this spot, well worthy of a painter’s study. Hills
+and dales clothed in tropical luxuriance; rocky precipices and
+lonely glens, where nature sits enthroned; steep mountains and
+ample solitudes, that look as if the foot of man never disturbed
+their primeval silence; and gentle slopes, dotted here and there
+with neat-looking dwellings. Below, on your right, lies the
+dockyard, with its uniform buildings, and the lovely harbour,
+forming a complete basin, encircled with its white sands; while
+beyond, the ocean presents one level sheet of burnished gold,
+over which the
+<a id="p281" class="pagenumber" title="The road to Bat’s Cave."></a>
+fishing-boats were gaily bounding, and throwing
+the shadow of their simple sails and slender masts far before
+them. The mouth of English Harbour, which is 113 fathoms across,
+was formerly defended in times of warfare by an immense iron
+chain. That, however, is now no more; but the staples by which it
+was secured still remain in the massive rocks, to prove the truth
+of this assertion. It is now protected by two forts placed on
+each side of the opening: Fort Charlotte, mounted with four guns,
+18 and 24 pounders; Fort Berkley, mounting twenty-four guns. At
+the latter fort is a magazine.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the Ridge, we turned down a slight declivity, by
+the victualling offices, on our way to Bat’s Cave, and the
+Savannah. Our road lay through groves of loblolly, manchineel,
+and acacia, which, twining their long arms together, formed
+various natural colonnades; while the ground was strewed with
+their matted leaves, in all stages of decay. Having alighted, we
+walked through the interwoven path, carefully avoiding as we went
+the different varieties of cactus, which spring up on all sides,
+and guarding our faces from the long sharp thorns of the acacia,
+and the boughs of the poisonous manchineel. The ground, rugged
+and broken, was plentifully sprinkled with disrupted portions of
+spar, which glittered in the sunbeams like so many gems, and put
+me in mind of Sinbad’s walk in the “Valley of Diamonds.” Immense
+ground-lizards were trailing their long bodies about, in search
+of their daily food, so amply provided for them by the great
+Benefactor of all; while others were basking upon these dazzling
+fossils, to imbibe the heat of the meridian sun.</p>
+
+<p>After taking many devious routes among the impending bushes, in
+order to discover the wished-for cavern, I was well pleased to
+hear the cheerful voice of our pioneer shouting forth “Come this
+way; I’ve found the right path.” Scrambling, as best we could,
+over a huge bed of prickly pear, (one of the cactus family,) we
+gained an opening in the copse, and stood before the mouth of the
+cave. Two large
+<a id="p282" class="pagenumber" title="Bat’s Cave."></a>
+trees, which grew on each side, extended their gnarled roots
+(from which the earth had been washed) across the opening,
+forming natural steps, by which we descended, and stood
+within the cave.</p>
+
+<p>Huge masses of the rock which forms the cavern have fallen in,
+and in great measure blocked it up, so that it now only presents
+an arena of about 50 feet in circumference, although in time past
+it was of considerable extent. From the main cavern, two passages
+branch off in opposite directions. They are perfectly dark, the
+only means of exploring them being by the use of flambeaux; but
+to what length they extend has never been discovered. Mr. McLane,
+a late resident of English Harbour, (now of Canada,) has made
+several attempts to that purpose, all of which proved fruitless;
+the greatest distance he ever proceeded was to the extent of two
+sea-lines, about 120 yards. The only known occupants are bats,
+which breed there in immense numbers, and often attain the size
+of a common pigeon. A dank unhealthy vapour is emitted from these
+openings, proceeding, no doubt, from the carbonic acid gas they
+contain. This vapour soon extinguishes the light of a torch,
+which is one reason this cavern has never been further
+explored.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref88" href="#note88">88</a>]</sup> A streak of dark green runs down one side of the
+cave, which was pointed out to me as indicating the existence of
+copper; but upon examining a portion of the rock I brought away
+with me, I found that the colour was occasioned only by a
+vegetable substance adhering to the stones.</p>
+
+<p>In former times, Bat’s Cave was a great place of concealment for
+the tribes of erratic Caribs, when visiting Antigua on their
+predatory excursions; and tradition still points it out as the
+scene of a barbarous carousal among that wild and savage race, in
+one of their attacks upon this island. As, however, I am now
+giving the narration of a day’s journey, I will proceed to
+mention the other spots we visited, and
+<a id="p283" class="pagenumber" title="Inscription."></a>
+leave the Legend, which is rather lengthy, for the next
+chapter.</p>
+
+<p>Emerging from “Bat’s Cave,” and wending our way amid the same
+rugged impediments, in process of time we reached our vehicle,
+and stepping into it, proceeded to visit the ruins of the old
+government house in the Savannah, the scene of the attack
+narrated in the “Legend of Ding a Ding Nook,” and of a similar
+attempt in 1654. After driving for a short distance over pasture
+land, exhibiting a dreary view of brown and withered herbage, the
+effects of the late dry weather, (rendered more striking by the
+contrast of the deep green of the different trees,) which
+crackled under the horses’ feet, we arrived at another tangled
+maze of shrub and brushwood, where it was again necessary to
+proceed on foot, in order to prosecute our intended search.
+Forcing our way through this almost impenetrable thicket,
+rendered in some places more impervious by the twinings and
+intertwinings of the withe, (a native parasite,) stooping to
+avoid some straggling branch, or springing over a thorny bank, we
+gained an open glade; and walking up the gentle acclivity, stood
+by the side of the ruins.</p>
+
+<p>They consist of what appears to have been a cistern, probably the
+first built in the island, and a low wall of stone, marking the
+foundation of the government house. Within this last-mentioned
+ruin stand two tombs, the inscriptions upon which are as
+follows:—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="cent">Antigua.<br/>
+          Here lieth the body of Mrs. Elizabeth Warner,<br/>
+                   Late wife of Edward Warner,<br/>
+                      Of this island, Esq.<br/>
+               She was a woman of exemplary piety;<br/>
+                   She was the best of wives,<br/>
+                    The tenderest of mothers,<br/>
+                   The faithfulest of friends,<br/>
+      And of a most charitable, compassionate disposition,<br/>
+        Whose death was generally and deservedly lamented<br/>
+                By the good people that knew her.<br/>
+        She departed this life the thirteenth of August,<br/>
+                              1723,<br/>
+                  In the 37th year of her age.</p></blockquote>
+
+<blockquote><p class="cent"><a id="p284" class="pagenumber" title="Indian Creek."></a>Here lies the body of<br/>
+                        Mr. Henry Warner,<br/>
+             Who died on the 17th day of Sept, 1731,<br/>
+                  In the 39th year of his age,<br/>
+                    Much beloved and lamented<br/>
+                      By all that knew him.<br/>
+                     In memory of whom, his<br/>
+                Affectionate brothers, Edward and<br/>
+                         Ashton Warner,<br/>
+                     Erected this Monument.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>About these tombs grew many a sweet and fragile flower, and many
+a gaily painted butterfly hovered around, and sported in the
+blaze of the “great luminary;” while the “Turk’s caps” (another
+species of cactus) shewed their crimson crests in all directions.
+A broken bottle, the relic of some former maroon (<i lang="fr">fête
+champetre</i>) lay upon one of the tombs​—​not more fragile or fickle
+in its nature than the mouldering dust which slept beneath, or
+those who in the heyday of life stood looking on.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the tombs and ruins to their usual solitude, we retraced
+our steps; but in doing so, I could not help thinking that the
+name “<i>Savannah</i>” was misapplied, or Dr. Johnson was wrong in his
+etymology, for I am sure there is wood in abundance of one kind
+or the other. A great number of wild cattle inhabit this part of
+the country, deriving, it is said, a plentiful supply of
+nutriment from the herbage found there.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to English Harbour, along the same road, we had a
+glimpse of “Indian Creek,” so famous in “story,” which meanders
+through verdantly-decked shores in a picturesque manner. It
+derives its name from an engagement which took place upon its
+banks, between a party of Caribs, (or Indians,) narrated in the
+following “Legend.”</p>
+
+<p>Once more entering the village of English Harbour, we proceeded
+to the house of W. C. Brooks, Esq., where we rested for some
+time, experiencing those nameless acts of hospitality for which
+the Antiguans are noted; and where I willingly laved my burning
+temples with the fragrant “Eau de Cologne.” Really, this marching
+and counter-marching, beneath a tropical sun, is no slight
+matter, let my readers
+<a id="p285" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+think as they may. “Sol” visits the face
+with many a fiery mark, and if he <i>kisses</i>, he leaves his <i>sting</i>
+behind. I felt glad when we once more took our way to town; and
+although no lovely moon was abroad,</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“——the floor of Heaven<br/>
+    Was thick inlaid with patines of bright gold,”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">which sufficed to light us gloriously on our way, and bring us in
+safety to Spring Gardens.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note84" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref84">84</a>] It may be necessary to remark, for the benefit of my English
+readers, that although Saturday is the principal <i>market-day</i>,
+Monday is more generally used by the labouring class for coming
+into the capital to provide their weekly supplies. So much is
+this the case, that where you may see fifty labourers employed
+upon a plantation upon the other days of the week, on Monday you
+will scarcely find twenty.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note85" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref85">85</a>] As it may amuse the reader, we here transcribe an original
+letter, written by our great naval hero at this period, which is
+carefully preserved by its proprietor as an invaluable relic:—</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="letdate">“English Harbour, Aug. 3rd, 1784.</p>
+
+<p>“As the captains of the navy at this port mean to establish a
+mess for the hurricane months, by their desire I write to beg
+that you will send us round, by the first opportunity, the
+undermentioned articles​—​viz., one hogshead of port, one of the
+best white wine that you have, twelve dozen of porter in bottles,
+fifty pounds loaf sugar, one firkin of good butter, two baskets
+of salt, two pounds black pepper.</p>
+
+<p class="letyours">“I have the honour to be, your humble servant,</p>
+
+<p class="signature">“<span class="sc">Horatio Nelson</span>.</p>
+
+<p>“P.S. As we only wait for these things to begin our mess, the
+sooner they arrive the better. Mr. Druce, the agent victualler is
+a going to send provisions round for the Fury which will be a
+good opportunity.</p>
+
+<p>“Addressed to ——— Kerr, Esq.”</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note86" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref86">86</a>] It may be necessary to remark, that roses are very choice
+flowers in Antigua, the climate not appearing to agree with them.
+This is strange, as in the East Indies, where the heat is even
+greater, whole fields are planted with this beautiful shrub, in
+order to get their leaves to distil the far-fame “Attar.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note87" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref87">87</a>] Of which island he was a native.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note88" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref88">88</a>] It is supposed that these passages extend to the sea-shore,
+a distance of about a quarter of a mile.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch23" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="cent">ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.</p>
+
+<p class="legend">A Legend of the Savannah.</p>
+
+<p class="init">The sun was rapidly sinking in the west, but its declining beams
+only threw upon every object a richer tone of colour, as a party,
+consisting of three persons, emerged from a small shrubbery, and
+halted upon the brow of a shelving hill.</p>
+
+<p>The foremost of the party was a man who probably verged upon the
+mellow age of fifty; but his eagle-eye, and stalwart frame, told
+that his years sat light upon him. He was what would have been
+termed a handsome man; but a supercilious curl of his upper lip,
+and an expression of scornful indifference, which, though
+apparently suppressed, lingered in his dark hazel eye, added to a
+brow furrowed by deep lines, and compressed by slumbering
+passions, which only waited the spur of the moment to be called
+into action, detracted from the otherwise agreeable character of
+his features, and effectually forbid any approach to familiarity.
+A deep and unsightly scar, the effects of a sabre-cut, which,
+commencing from the right ear, traversed the jaw, injured yet
+further his good looks. He was habited in a complete suit of
+black velvet, of the richest texture; the sombreness of which was
+in some measure relieved by diamond clasps, and small
+knee-buckles of the same costly stones. A small collar of the
+<a id="p286" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+finest lawn made its appearance above the doublet; and a
+black-sheathed “Andrèa Ferrara,” with basket hilt, dangling from
+his side, and calf-skin boots, completed his costume. This dress,
+fitting tight to his shape, shewed to advantage the large but
+perfect symmetry of his person; while the dark brown hair,
+sprinkled here and there with the grey badge of declining years,
+cropt close around his temples; and the steeple-crowned hat
+peculiar to his sect and times, bespoke him, what he was, the
+friend of Cromwell​—​the roundhead governor of Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>The next person that gained the open ground was Bridget, the
+beautiful daughter of the governor. If ever there was a
+personification of extreme loveliness, it was known in Bridget.
+Scarcely seventeen, her slight but rounded figure, and her sweet,
+mild face, while it struck the beholder with admiration, and
+riveted his attention, gave the idea of some embodied sylph. Her
+complexion was of that ethereal tint of which the poet says—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Oh, call it fair, not pale.”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The lily could scarcely outvie it in purity of colour, although
+every emanation of her guileless heart called up the latent
+rose-tint into her delicate cheek; while the small, pouting lip,
+with all the rich glow of the coral, forbid effectually the
+supposition of ill health. A slightly aquiline nose, a
+classically-formed and dimpled chin, with a fair and open
+forehead, in which every azure vein could be traced, were the
+prominent features; blended with that mingled sweetness, that
+feminine grace, and that inexpressible <i>something</i>, which really
+and actually constitutes beauty. But her eyes​—​those soft, lovely
+eyes​—​look at them, as she raises the long lashes, and you can
+fancy, that were her features devoid of any pretensions to
+comeliness, those liquid orbs would richly compensate for all. Of
+the clearest hazel, every glance that fell from them spoke the
+inmost feelings of her soul; and whether they beamed forth in
+pity, or flashed with animation, they equally bespoke the
+benevolence of her nature.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p287" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+Puritan as her father was, he did not deny his daughter, any more
+than himself, the use of a few ornaments; and a bandeau of pearls
+fastened around her graceful head vainly endeavoured to restrain
+the abundant tresses of her soft, glossy, brown hair, which,
+breaking loose, floated upon her shoulders in natural ringlets.
+Her dress of dove-coloured satin flowed in rich and ample folds
+to her feet, from whence the little slipper peeped forth; and,
+gathered around her slender waist by a girdle of pearls, shewed
+the admirable proportions of her figure. The stiff puritan ruff
+of lawn, in which every plait could be counted, screened her
+neck; but around her small white throat was fastened a carcanet
+of her favourite gems, not purer in tint than her own fair skin.
+A wimple of the same colour as her dress, and lined with pale
+rose tiffany, was tied under her little rounded chin, but which,
+in the joyousness of her nature, she had unfastened, that she
+might more fully enjoy the beauties of the evening.</p>
+
+<p>The remaining individual that formed the trio was in every
+respect far different from those already described; yet, as she
+stood a few paces behind Bridget​—​to mark the difference in their
+rank, although near enough to join in the conversation​—​her lofty
+and commanding figure called equally for attention and
+admiration. The clear olive tinge of her complexion, the large
+black eye, which sparkled with dazzling light, and the long
+coal-black hair, braided and twined round and round her head,
+told that she was not of the same country, or the same people as
+her mistress. Servant​—​slave as she was​—​she looked born to
+command; and daring must that person be who would encounter for
+the second time the flash of her offended eye. Formed in a larger
+mould than Bridget, her figure still bore the utmost symmetrical
+proportions; and the rounded arm and taper fingers might have
+served as a model for the Goddess of Beauty: this female was
+Zulmiera​—​the half-Carib girl.</p>
+
+<p>The mother of Zulmiera was a very beautiful Carib
+woman, who, in that disgraceful partition of them among the
+<a id="p288" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+English, (after the massacre of their male friends at St. Kitts
+during Sir Thomas Warner’s government of that island,)
+fell to the share of a young Englishman, a follower of Sir
+Thomas Warner’s son, in his after colonization of Antigua.
+Xamba accompanied her master to his new residence, and
+there bore him a daughter; but dying soon after, the infant
+was brought up in the governor’s family. After the
+reduction of Antigua by Sir George Ayscue, and the establishment
+of a republican governor, in place of the opposer of Cromwell’s
+power, Zulmiera, who was rapidly attaining the full burst of
+womanhood, was, at the earnest entreaties of Bridget Everard, who
+was charmed with the untutored graces of the beautiful Indian
+maiden, promoted to the office of her companion. It must be
+allowed, that this appointment met not with the full approval of
+the governor. Violently attached to Cromwell, and bearing bitter
+hatred to the royalist party, and all malignants, he thought the
+girl had been too long nurtured in their principles to make a
+faithful attendant to the daughter of a republican. But Bridget
+was his only child,​—​a motherless girl; and stern and unbending as
+he was to others, his iron mood gave way before her playful
+caresses.</p>
+
+<p>Still there was another and deep cause of dislike he had against
+Zulmiera. Upon further acquaintance with this Indian girl, he
+found her too haughty for his own arrogant spirit to deal with.
+Too high-minded and forgetful of her real rank as a servant, and
+apparently under the impression that, while attending upon her
+mistress, she was in fact her equal, if not her superior.</p>
+
+<p>Zulmiera was, in truth, fully alive to this sentiment. She looked
+upon herself as the descendant (on her mother’s side) of a long
+line of chiefs​—​of those who had once been rulers in the land, and
+who had received from their swarthy subjects the homage that
+monarchs of a more civilized nation were wont to receive.</p>
+
+<p>Thinking thus of Zulmiera, no wonder that the governor
+distrusted her. Nor was the girl ignorant of his opinion of
+<a id="p289" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+her; and consequently their feelings of dislike were mutual.
+She knew he hated her; and he felt that in her heart she
+despised him. Still, she loved Bridget​—​for who could not
+love that mild, fair girl?​—​loved her with an intensity of
+fervour, unknown to the inhabitants of colder climes​—​and
+would have shed for her her heart’s best blood; for love and
+hatred were to Zulmiera all-absorbing passions. Yet there
+was another who held the <i>first</i> place in Zulmiera’s heart,​—​one
+that was to the half-instructed, half-Indian girl​—​her
+“idol god.”</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the movements of the trio. Having left the
+concealment of the shrubbery, the whole party paused, and with
+different feelings gazed upon the landscape stretched before
+them. The slight declivity upon the brow of which they were
+standing, had been cleared, and was now planted with tobacco,
+whose broad green leaves, and delicate trumpet flowers, attracted
+the attention of numerous gorgeous insects. This plantation
+stretched to the end of a wild copse, where every native shrub
+and brushwood grew together with the loftier trees, and formed an
+almost impervious thicket. Beyond this copse, the waters of a
+beautiful creek, which ran a short way inland, glittered like
+gold in the beams of the setting sun; while on every side rose
+undulating hills, begirt with many an infant plantation,
+belonging to some of the earlier settlers. Further off, the broad
+ocean stretched its interminable waves, its billows sleeping in
+calmness; except in one part, where a long ridge of shelving
+rocks fretted them into motion, and caused them to send forth
+their angry roar.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref89" href="#note89">89</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>At the bottom of the hill upon which they were standing
+ran a bridle-path, which, winding in and out, branched off in
+two directions; one passing through the populous town of
+Falmouth, the other extending to the shores of a beautiful
+harbour,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref90" href="#note90">90</a>]</sup> where some industrious settlers were cultivating
+the adjoining country. Along this path a single horseman was
+<a id="p290" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+seen slowly advancing, in the direction of the harbour. As
+he gained the skirts of the hill, he reined up for a moment
+his prancing steed, and, looking towards the party, raised his
+plumed hat and bent forward in graceful obeisance. The
+dark eyes of Zulmiera sparkled with delight, and standing, as
+she did, behind the governor and his daughter, unseen by
+them, she raised her hand and waved a return, while, at the
+same instant, the rosiest blush sprang to the cheeks of
+Bridget, and crimsoned her very throat. The horseman
+again bent his head, and then, replacing his hat, shook the
+broidered reins and galloped off in the direction he had
+chosen for his equestrian amusement.</p>
+
+<p>Following with his eye the plumed stranger until he was lost in
+the intervening copse, the governor turned to his daughter, and
+fixing a steady, penetrating glance upon her, exclaimed, “Ha!
+then the young malignant’s designs appear to be more open than
+they were. But, mark me, daughter Bridget,” and his eye became
+sterner and darker as the pupil dilated with his awakening
+passion, and his haughty lip curled with increased scorn​—​“mark
+me, Bridget, sooner than I’d see thee mated with one of his
+malignant race, mine own hand should stretch thee at my feet a
+breathless corpse!​—​yea, as Jephtha slew his daughter, so would I
+slay thee!” The agitated and frightened girl threw herself upon
+her father’s breast, and, amid tears and sobs, stammered
+out​—​“Father​—​dearest father! think not so. Raphe de Merefield is
+naught to me; he never spoke to me but with the most studied
+politeness, and, indeed, he shuns rather than seeks my
+presence.”​—​“’Tis well, then, maiden​—​my suspicions are unfounded;
+the wolf has not entered the sheepfold to steal the tender lamb;
+but I have observed him lately wandering about these grounds, and
+I feared my daughter was the object. But listen!” and again his
+eye flashed, his lip trembled​—​“verily, I know that young man
+well​—​ay, better than he knows me​—​for his father was my neighbour
+and my deadliest foe!​—​and what was more, the foe of Cromwell! He
+it was that assisted that tyrannical
+<a id="p291" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+man, Charles Stuart, in his
+escape from Hampton Court, and after aided him in his long
+struggles to maintain possession of a crown which had long been
+doomed to destruction. He it was that beggared his brother to
+obtain money to carry out that well-slain tyrant’s nefarious
+designs! And he it was that, at the battle of Naseby, gave me
+this ugly sign of recognition,” pointing to the scar which
+disfigured his cheek. “But was he not discomfited? Yea, as the dry
+leaf he fell. Lo! as David girded up his strength in the day of
+battle, so girded I up mine; and as he smote his enemies with the
+edge of the sword, so my trusty weapon stretched the haughty
+Philistine upon the ground, never to rise again! Guess, then, if
+thou canst, how much I love yon cavalier, who hath sucked in with
+his very milk the taint of papistry​—​for did not that Babylonish
+woman whom men call the Queen of England rear him up from his
+cradle? yea, and taught him all her sorceries. Had my honoured
+friend and master, the protector, followed my advice, this young
+traitor to the commonwealth would never have escaped from England
+to disseminate his malignant poison abroad. Cromwell should have
+crushed the egg before it was hatched. But verily I wax hot and
+am impatient, not considering the time approacheth when rebels
+and arch-rebels shall melt away as the hoar frost melteth before
+the sun. Despatches have reached me that it is Cromwell’s
+intention to send, in the course of a few months, a squadron
+against St. Domingo, and my instructions are to see that a proper
+troop be raised in this island to join the expedition. I am
+resolved that Master Raphe de Merefield be one of the gallants
+who shall serve in that affair; a goodly bullet-shot or, albeit,
+a well-applied stroke from the rapier of a Spaniard, may relieve
+me from his machinations; or should he refuse to fight under the
+banner of the commonwealth, verily, I know the malignancy of his
+father cleaves so closely to him, that it will only be
+maintaining Cromwell’s interest to have him properly secured, or
+we may see another revolt when we least expect it.” Thus saying,
+the governor
+<a id="p292" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+walked forward a few paces, and shading his eyes from the
+lingering sunbeams, scanned for a few moments the scene
+before him.</p>
+
+<p>What passed in the mind of Bridget during the foregoing
+conversation it is unnecessary to relate, but the emotions called
+up in the heart of the Carib girl while hearing her lover thus
+traduced were violent and various. Hate, scorn, and revenge,
+fired her eye, and sent a torrent of hot blood through her veins,
+which, rushing to her face, turned the clear olive to a fiery
+crimson. Yet so well was she accustomed to master her feelings,
+that before her young mistress was sufficiently recovered to
+commence another dialogue, she stood the same apparently calm
+being, her hands folded across her breast; and only that her eye
+was more dilated, and her cheek still slightly tinged, none could
+tell that aught had moved her.</p>
+
+<p>An exclamation from the governor, who had, for the last few
+minutes, been intently gazing in one direction, arrested his
+daughter’s attention, and, gliding to his elbow, she inquired if
+he addressed her. “Look, Bridget,” replied her father, in a still
+stern, but not unmusical voice​—​“look o’er yonder grove​—​dost thou
+see aught moving?”​—​“Nothing, dearest father,” answered the
+maiden, in her own sweet tones​—​“nothing but the bland zephyr
+sporting amid the young green leaves, and playing its fairy music
+upon them.” “Foolish enthusiast! But haste, girl!​—​fetch me the
+wondrous instrument the lord-general gave me, and let me give yon
+grove a sharper look​—​methinks it contains more inmates than we
+wot of. I have heard of wild Indians and their deeds.”</p>
+
+<p>Roused by his remarks, Zulmiera started forward, and in an
+agitated voice which she in vain tried to stifle, exclaimed, “Oh,
+no, your excellency, naught is there, save, as the Lady Bridget
+saith, the whispering wind or the fly-birds as they seek their
+leafy bower.” “Back, girl!” fiercely retorted the governor​—​“back
+to thy place; who taught thee to hazard thy remarks? Methinks thy
+cavalier masters might have made thee know thy station better.”</p>
+
+<p><a id="p293" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+Again the blood rushed to the cheek and temples of Zulmiera​—​again
+the eye flashed fire​—​but again she mastered her emotions;
+exclaiming, however, as she did so, but in a voice too subdued to
+reach her companion’s ear, “Rest till to-morrow’s night, proud
+man, then wilt thou learn who governs here!”</p>
+
+<p>At this moment, Bridget placed in her father’s hand the lately
+invented telescope,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref91" href="#note91">91</a>]</sup> when, raising it to his eye, he narrowly
+observed the whole breadth of the copse; the distant creek and
+the farther ocean; but nothing met his eye​—​nothing, save the wavy
+green, or the wing of a weary sea-fowl as it sought its nest.
+Slowly dropping the instrument, the governor once more gazed with
+his naked eye in that direction. The sun had set some minutes
+before, and as the last of his golden beams faded in the west, he
+turned upon his heel, and, followed by the females, was once more
+lost in the verdant shrubbery.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note89" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref89">89</a>] Now called the Memora’s.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note90" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref90">90</a>] Now called English Harbour.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note91" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref91">91</a>] Telescopes were said to have been invented during the reign
+of James I., although some attribute the invention to Roger
+Bacon, 1292.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch24" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="cent">CONTINUATION OF THE LEGEND.</p>
+
+<p class="init">It was a calm, delicious, West Indian night. The moon shone in
+all her glory, bathing lawn and lea, upland and woodland, in her
+silvery light. The waters of the creek we have already noticed
+were rife with beauty; and the waves of the far-off ocean, as
+they dashed in measured cadence on the beach, broke musically
+upon the listener’s ear.</p>
+
+<p>A stately figure, enveloped in a dark mantle, glided from behind
+a screen of lime and coffee trees; and gaining the open ground,
+looked cautiously around. As if assured its movements were
+unobserved, the figure darted off at a rapid pace in the
+direction of a magnificent grove; but with steps
+<a id="p294" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+so light, that it would scarcely have crushed the lowliest
+flower. Upon reaching the verge of the grove, it stopped;
+and placing a finger upon a small gittern,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref92" href="#note92">92</a>]</sup> carried beneath
+the ample cloak, struck a single note. The crushing of the
+younger twigs and leaves told that the signal was heard; and
+springing from the covert, a young man bounded forward,
+exclaiming​—​“Zulmiera! dearest Zulmiera! how long thou
+hast stayed to-night!”</p>
+
+<p>The moon still shone with a clear and fervent light, displaying
+every object in a distinct manner, and shewing the picturesque
+dress of the impassioned stranger to the best advantage. His
+figure was slight but perfectly formed, while his fair skin and
+glowing cheeks bespoke his Saxon origin. His eyes were of the
+clearest blue, and his long auburn locks, parted in the middle of
+his forehead, flowed over his shoulders, in length and profusion
+equalling a woman’s. A slight moustache shaded his upper lip,
+which, slightly curved, displayed a set of teeth faultless in
+size and colour. His dress, fashioned in that superb style which
+the followers of Charles loved to indulge in, consisted of a
+doublet of three-piled murrey-colour velvet, pinked and slashed
+with white satin, and ornamented with elaborate embroidery, his
+falling band, or collar, of the richest point lace, and his
+nether garments to match with the doublet, were finished at the
+knees with white satin roses and diamond studs. A small but
+admirably tempered Toledo, the hilt of solid gold, and sparkling
+with diamonds, was strapped to his side by an embroidered belt;
+while a Flemish beaver hat, looped with a diamond button, and
+surrounded by a snowy plume, shaded his somewhat boyish features.
+A dark short cloak, lined with white tafiety, which he had flung
+aside when springing to meet Zulmiera, floated from behind his
+right shoulder, and served to give him still more an air of
+graceful elegance.</p>
+
+<p>“Dearest Zulmiera,” said the young stranger, when
+<a id="p295" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+seated upon the
+trunk of a large tree, which, uprooted by a former hurricane, and
+slightly covered by a little alluvial earth, had shot forth a few
+sickly branches​—​“dearest Zulmiera, how long I have waited for
+you​—​how much I have to tell you! I have watched each star as it
+peeped forth from the heavens​—​heard the shrill pipe of the curlew
+as it flew to its nest​—​but listened in vain for your light
+footstep; say, dearest, what kept you from the trysting-tree?” “I
+was in attendance upon my mistress until this late hour,” replied
+Zulmiera, speaking in an ironical tone, and laying a strong
+emphasis upon the word <i>mistress</i>, while a slight look of scorn
+passed over her animated features; “or else doubt not I would
+have met you long before; for where, Raphe, would the bird with
+weary wing seek for rest but by the side of its own fond mate? or
+why should yon white flower,” pointing to a night-jasmine which
+was growing in all its wild luxuriance near the spot, and loading
+the air with sweet and powerful perfume​—​“why should yon white
+flower haste to open its pretty leaves, as soon as the day melts
+away, were it not to seek the fond love of those beautiful stars
+which are twinkling above us? Raphe, you are my mate, and your
+eyes are my stars, in which I read my destiny.”</p>
+
+<p>To this fond but fanciful rhapsody, Raphe de Merefield made no
+answer, except by pressing the beautiful hand which rested in
+his; and the half-Carib continued: “But it was not to tell you
+this, Raphe, that brought me here so late to-night. Come with
+me.” And suffering himself to be led by her, they quitted the
+deep recess in which they had been seated, and walked into the
+open ground already mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>Looking up the ascent above the tops of the trees, which grew in
+vast profusion, forming a complete barrier around, the moon-beams
+fell upon the roof of an irregular but commodious building. This
+was government house, and through an opening in the leafy
+enclosure, the light of a taper was seen brightly shining from a
+small diamond-pane casement, in one of the gable ends of the
+edifice. “In that room,”
+<a id="p296" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+said the romantic girl, directing
+Raphe’s attention to it, “sleeps one, who, next to yourself, I
+love most on earth; and scornfully, harshly as her father has
+treated me, she must and shall be saved! Mark me, Raphe, an’ thou
+lovest me, guard the Lady Bridget as thou wouldst a sister. Wild
+spirits will be abroad ere the glad sun shall set and rise again,
+or yon pretty stars be peeping at us; and though I think they
+will care for mine as they would me, still, Raphe, I would have
+thee prepared. When all is over​—​when you and I​—​but I need say no
+more, except that Bridget shall not then be ashamed to love the
+despised, the scorned Zulmiera,” and as she spoke, she threw back
+her graceful head with the air of a Cleopatra, while the bright
+crimson mantled in her cheeks, and increased the lustre of her
+eyes.</p>
+
+<p>“What mean you, Zulmiera?” inquired the young cavalier, as soon
+as he could make himself heard; for her utterance during the
+preceding speech had been so rapid, and her manner so excited,
+that all his former attempts to interrupt her had been useless.
+“What mean you, dearest Zulmiera? Why this flashing eye​—​this
+agitated mien? Is it because yon king-killing, canting Puritan,
+called you <i>servant</i>, that these wild dreams (for I know not what
+else to term them) are floating through your brain? Never heed
+him, dearest; you will soon be my bride, my acknowledged wife;
+and then let me see who dare call you servant, or taunt you with
+your birth! Know that I love one tress of this black hair”​—​and he
+drew her fondly towards him​—​“better than all the fair ringlets
+and fairer skins of England’s boasted daughters. But draw your
+mantle closer round you, and let us to our former seat, where I
+will relate to you all my plans.​—​You know,” resumed Raphe, as
+they gained their resting-place upon the old tree, “that after
+the unfortunate battle of Naseby, upon which bloody field my
+brave father fell, fighting for his lawful sovereign against
+those long-eared Roundheads, (to which sect our notable governor
+belongs!) my widowed mother, seized with an irrepressible panic,
+fled from England, carrying me, then a
+<a id="p297" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+stripling of about
+fourteen, along with her. Our first place of refuge was Holland,
+where the queen, whose godson I have the honour to be, had sought
+safety some time before. But my mother, disliking the country,
+and having received letters from her husband’s brother, my
+revered uncle, whose namesake I am, offering her an asylum in
+Antigua, she determined to avail herself of his kindness. Thus it
+was I became a resident in this island; and during my frequent
+visits at government house, when loyalty ruled there, I met my
+dearest Zulmiera. You are aware, I believe, that my uncle, who
+was formerly a merchant of the city of London, was joined with
+Sir Thomas Warner in a grant of land situated in this island, the
+grantor of which was the martyr Charles. Upon part of that land
+the brother of young Phillip Warner is erecting a new dwelling,
+and cultivating the surrounding country. It will be a fine place
+when it is finished; and Warner deserves it should be, for he
+made a gallant defence in 1651, when old Noll sent Sir George
+Ayscue to reduce this island, because, forsooth, it stood out for
+its lawful sovereign. But to resume my story, which the brave
+actions of Mr. Warner drove from my head. To-day, I confided to
+my mother our mutual engagement ; she has listened to the voice
+of her only, her beloved son, and is prepared to receive you as a
+daughter. To-morrow, I will call upon the governor​—​although I
+hate the sight of him, from his high-crowned hat down to his ugly
+looking calf-skins​—​and make my proposals in form. If he consents
+with a good grace, well; if not, I feel assured my dear Zulmiera
+will not fear to leave his house and protection for the home and
+hearth of one who loves her as I do. I still hope that our own
+King Charles (God bless him!) may overcome his enemies, and be
+seated upon the throne of his fathers; then will we visit old
+England, and in my own paternal mansion, I’ve no doubt I shall
+get my handsome Zulmiera to forget her native island and all her
+wild dreams.” So saying, with a look of strong affection and with
+gallant bearing, he raised her hand to his lips.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p298" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+“Oh, Raphe!” said the agitated girl, as her lover concluded his
+relation, to which she had listened with breathless attention;
+“oh, Raphe! had I known this but even ten days agone, how much
+might I, how much might we all have been spared. But I thought
+your mother would never have consented that the governor’s
+servant should mate with her noble son​—​and my own high spirit,
+goaded on as it has been by the scornful usage I have met, has
+led me to do a deed which may, perhaps, dash the cup of happiness
+from my lips. But, then,” she murmured, as if more in communion
+with herself than in reply to her companion, “but then to be a
+queen, and Raphe (they promised that, or I would never have
+consented) to be a king. No, it must be: I have gone too far to
+turn back;” and she raised her head, and looke steadfastly, but
+apparently half-unconsciously at the young man, who, surprised at
+her behaviour and language, was gazing intently upon her. At
+length, slightly shaking her hand to arrest her attention, he
+inquired again the cause of her extreme emotion. Receiving no
+reply from Zulmiera, whose large dark eyes were still fixed upon
+his face, he became seriously alarmed, and, in an anxious tone,
+entreated her to quit directly the night air, and seek that
+repose she appeared to need so much, within the precincts of
+government house. Allowing herself to be led in that direction,
+they in silence gained the shrubbery; when, after asking in vain
+for an explanation, and hearing her again and again express her
+assurance that she was not seriously indisposed, Raphe de
+Merefield bade her good even. As he turned to leave the spot,
+Zulmiera appeared to recover herself, and drawing a long breath,
+exclaimed “To-morrow, dear Raphe, to-morrow thou shalt know
+all​—​till then, farewell!”</p>
+
+<p>For some moments after the departure of the young cavalier,
+Zulmiera remained standing in the same posture; and then,
+suddenly rousing herself, she gazed once more earnestly around,
+and finding all still, stepped without the bounds of the
+shrubbery, and retracing her steps, once more gained the border
+of the copse. She was about to make
+<a id="p299" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+use of an arranged signal,
+when a dark figure came bounding over a natural mound, formed by
+wild plants and brushwood, and in another instant stood before
+her.</p>
+
+<p>Near seven feet in height, and of corresponding breadth of
+shoulder, the stranger looked able to compete with a dozen men of
+ordinary growth, while his whole appearance was such as to strike
+terror into the heart of the beholder. Attired in a garment of
+dark red cloth, which only covered his person from his waist to
+his knees, the remainder of his body was painted in a most
+hideous manner. A black leathern belt, passing over his brawny
+shoulders, supported a huge naked broad-sword, doubtless obtained
+in some predatory exploit, whose edge was blunted and hacked by
+many a rough encounter, dangled by his side, or struck harmlessly
+against his naked legs. His face, the features of which were
+naturally good, was disfigured by grotesque colourings, and
+horrible scars; while his long black hair, to which was fastened
+small pieces of copper, brass buttons, and tufts of parrot
+feathers, floated behind him in matted locks, and gave him the
+appearance of a wandering gnome. An old regimental coat, from
+which part of the lace had been cut, and which was another of his
+war spoils, was tied around his neck by the two sleeves, serving
+the purpose of a cloak; and upon his breast reposed​—​a silent but
+melancholy memento of his habits​—​a string of human teeth, their
+dead white contrasting vividly with his dark skin. This stranger
+was Cuanaboa, the dreaded Carib chief.</p>
+
+<p>Rendering to Zulmiera his simple obeisance, he commenced the
+conversation by remarking in a barbarous kind of dialect, “the
+Boyez<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref93" href="#note93">93</a>]</sup> gave the time to meet when the big star,” pointing to
+the moon, “rose above the hill, and the lady promised to obey;
+but now it’s shining o’er our heads, and the charm may be
+broken​—​the bow may indeed be bent, and the arrow speed on its
+way, and yet fall to the ground wide of the mark. We meet
+to-night, ’tis true; but
+<a id="p300" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+the time the Boyez appointed is long
+past, and now perhaps our purpose may fail, and our enemies
+escape.” “Oh, no! Cuanaboa, believe not so,” replied Zulmiera;
+“listen not to the wild words of the old Boyez; thinkest thou <i>I</i>
+care for what he saith?” “Ay, lady, but thou art fallen from the
+faith of thy fathers​—​thou hast lived too long with the
+Christians; but it matters not now, let us talk of our plans.
+Myself and comrades have agreed to lead the attack upon yonder
+house about this time to-morrow night, and we look to you to draw
+from their weapons those little round stones which kill so many
+of us, we know not how. Guacanagari has joined me with twice so
+many men, (holding up his hand, and spreading out his fingers,)
+and as fine a canoe as ever was paddled along these seas. He
+landed with his party just as the sun touched the waters; an hour
+badly chosen by him, for too many eyes are then abroad. I hope,
+though, none saw them but their red brothers, for they skulked
+along by the thickest part of the woods; and now their canoe lies
+high and dry, beneath the shelter of yon high banks, while they
+repose in safety in the cave,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref94" href="#note94">94</a>]</sup> attended by old Quiba. Now,
+lady, as, when the white men are subdued, and, falling beneath
+our clubs, or transfixed by our arrows, serve us as sacrifices to
+Mayboya,<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref95" href="#note95">95</a>]</sup> we are to look upon you as our Queen——”</p>
+
+<p>“And Raphe as your <i>king</i>” interrupted Zulmiera, in hurried
+accents. “You promised that, or I would never have agreed to what
+I have; and had I known Cuanaboa as much as I do to-night, even
+that scheme of grandeur would not have tempted me to turn
+traitor, to promise, as I have, to open the doors, where I have
+lived so long, to give entrance to the enemy, and to lull their
+fears, while the worse than blood-hounds were upon their steps.
+Oh, Cuanaboa! I might have been so very happy, had I only waited
+in patience for a little time​—​happier as plain Mistress de
+Merefield, than I shall be, perhaps, as queen of the Caribbees;
+<a id="p301" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+but it is no use repining now; I have given my word, and, right
+or wrong, Zulmiera will stand by it.”</p>
+
+<p>The long eyelashes fell over her burning eyes, and the beating of
+her heart sounded audibly, and shook her very frame; but
+recovering herself, she continued​—​“There is another subject to be
+discussed, Cuanaboa; the daughter of the governor is my dearest
+friend, and therefore she must be preserved unharmed throughout
+the fray, guarded with the most scrupulous care, and I look to
+you to place her in safety. Dost thou comprehend what I say?”</p>
+
+<p>“Yes, lady; and I was going to remark, when you interrupted me,
+that as you wish certain of the enemy saved alive, particularly
+the fair youth you mentioned just now, it would be well for you
+to give your orders to Guacanagari; and for that purpose I would
+advise you to visit the cave to-morrow evening, when we intend
+holding a serious assembly and dance, previous to commencing the
+attack. Guacanagari will be rejoiced to meet you, and he will be
+as fond of the maiden and the youth as I am;” and a very sinister
+expression, but unobserved by Zulmiera, passed over the face of
+the Carib chief. “Besides, lady, it is but right that Guacanagari
+should know his queen​—​never Carib had one before.”</p>
+
+<p>“I will attend,” replied Zulmiera. “And now, as it is past
+midnight, ’tis time we parted;” so saying, she bowed to the
+Carib, and drawing her mantle around her, walked away with all
+the dignity of a sovereign.</p>
+
+<p>Keeping his dark eye fixed upon her as long as she continued in
+sight, no sooner had the intervening shrubs screened her from his
+view, than, throwing himself upon the ground, the Carib broke
+into a shrill laugh. “And so the haughty beauty thinks that a
+people who have scarcely known control, will bend their shoulders
+to the dominion of a girl and a white-faced boy!​—​ha! ha! If the
+wild kites chose a king, would it be a colibri?<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref96" href="#note96">96</a>]</sup> No! Should the Caribs follow
+<a id="p302" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+the custom of the strangers who have come among us,
+and torn away our most fruitful countries, and own a king,
+who should it be but Cuanaboa? for who has slain so many enemies
+and drunk their blood as I have? or who can shew a longer string
+of teeth than I have here?” and he played with the one which
+ornamented his neck. “If Zulmiera will be queen, it must be as my
+wife; and truly she would serve to swell a richer triumph than I
+even expect to have. But as for the youth, his race is almost
+run; before this time to-morrow, I think he will give me but
+little further trouble. ’Tis well I came so soon to-night, and
+thus was witness of the meeting. I wish I could have understood
+what he said; but these pale-faced people speak so vilely, that
+it is hard to know what they mean. However, it matters not, I saw
+enough; and as I intend Zulmiera to be my prize, I will very
+shortly get rid of the youngster; he’ll make a capital sacrifice
+to Old Mayboya. White men eat better than red people, it can’t be
+denied;” and as he finished his soliloquy, he arose from the
+ground, and springing over the brush-wood, was lost to sight in
+the impending copse.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note92" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref92">92</a>] A kind of small guitar, in use about the 16th and 17th
+centuries.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note93" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref93">93</a>] A priest, or magician, among the Caribs.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note94" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref94">94</a>] Now called Bat’s Cave.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note95" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref95">95</a>] Supreme deity among the Caribs.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note96" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref96">96</a>] The Indian name for the humming bird.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch25" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXV.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="cent">CONCLUSION OF THE LEGEND.</p>
+
+<p class="init">The morning after this eventful meeting rose fair and bright.
+Bridget and Zulmiera, seated at an open window, inhaled the sweet
+breeze, while they bent over their embroidery frames; and the
+fair Englishwoman was giving a description of her own far-off
+land, when, gazing in the direction of the before-named copse,
+Zulmiera espied a white feather glancing for a moment above the
+tops of the trees, a well-known signal indicating the presence of
+Raphe de Merefield.</p>
+
+<p>Framing an excuse, she shortly left the apartment; and
+taking a circuitous route to escape observation, in a few
+<a id="p303" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+moments gained the old tree, where, as expected, she found
+her lover.</p>
+
+<p>“Zulmiera,” said the young man, after the first greetings were
+passed, “I have suffered deeply in mind since we parted, on
+account of the strange words you let fall last evening; and I now
+seek your presence to demand, as your affianced husband, their
+signification. Tell me, Zulmiera, thine whole heart, or as Willy
+Shakspeare saith—</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“——If thou dost love me,<br/>
+                     Shew me thy thought?”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Accosted in this sudden manner, and surprised by his serious
+demeanour, Zulmiera’s caution forsook her, and bursting into
+tears, confessed to her lover, as best she could, the following
+facts. Having been treated with great scorn and harshness by the
+governor, and looking upon herself as the descendant of a line of
+chieftains, and consequently entitled to respect, a deep and
+irresistible feeling of revenge sprang up in her breast, and
+absorbed her every thought. Roaming, as she had ever been wont,
+amid the romantic dells and leafy labyrinths of her native
+islands, she came one evening upon a curious cavern; her love of
+novelty led her to inspect it, but in the act of doing so, she
+was driven back in alarm by the sight of a flashing pair of eyes.</p>
+
+<p>Unable to suppress her fears, yet too much overcome by the
+encounter to fly, she leant against the rocky opening of the
+cave; when, rushing from his concealment, a powerful man, whom
+she immediately recognised as a Carib, darted upon her, and
+placing his hand upon her mouth to prevent her screams from being
+heard, was about to bear her away as his captive.</p>
+
+<p>Terrified as she was, she still had the presence of mind to
+declare her origin, and claim his forbearance, on the score of
+their allied blood. To such a plea, a Carib’s heart is
+never deaf; the grasp upon the shoulder was relaxed; the
+armed warrior stood quietly by her side; and a conversation
+<a id="p304" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+in the Carib tongue (which Zulmiera had acquired from
+her mother) was carried on between them.</p>
+
+<p>The stranger declared himself to be a Carib chief, named
+Cuanaboa, and with the openness for which that people were noted
+among their friends, acquainted Zulmiera with the cause of his
+appearance in that lone cave. Following the example of his
+fathers, Cuanaboa said he had resolved to make an attack upon
+Antigua, accompanied by a neighbouring chief and their several
+tribes; but in a war-council held by them, it had been arranged
+for him to pay a secret visit to the island, in order to inspect
+it, and endeavour to find out its weakest parts. Accordingly,
+leaving his mountain home in Dominica, he had paddled himself
+over in a slight canoe, and easily discovering the cave, which
+had been well-known to the tribe in their former predatory
+visits, he took up his abode there.</p>
+
+<p>Zulmiera listened eagerly to this communication; and excited as
+she was, thought it a good opportunity for effectually procuring
+her revenge. After arranging for the safety of Raphe de
+Merefield, to whom she had been long engaged, she finally
+promised, that upon an appointed night, she would open the doors
+of government house, and admit the band of Caribs. Ignorant of
+the real force of Antigua, and led away by her own turbulent and
+romantic passions, the Indian girl wrongly supposed that a few
+half-armed Caribs would be able to strike terror into the breasts
+and compete with the well-arranged ranks of the English. In
+consequence of this wild fancy, Zulmiera further proposed, as her
+reward, that when the battle was gained, and the English
+defeated, she should be immediately elected queen, and Raphe king
+of the Caribbees. Many other meetings had taken place between
+herself and the Carib chief; and she concluded her relation, by
+informing Raphe of the arrival of the whole band of Caribs, and
+that the hour of midnight was the time proposed for the intended
+assault upon government house.</p>
+
+<p>The surprise, the consternation of the young man, as she
+<a id="p305" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+unfolded
+this tale to him, was overpowering, and for some moments he
+remained as if rooted to the ground. At length, striking his hand
+upon his forehead, he exclaimed, in a tone of extreme
+bitterness​—​“Oh! Zulmiera​—​Zulmiera! what hast thou done! Surely
+it is some horrible dream; and yet it is too true; thou couldst
+not have distressed me so, an’ it had not been. To-night, sayest
+thou? Unhappy girl, thou hast indeed dashed the cup of happiness
+from thy lips! Now I understand thy visible emotion​—​thy
+half-smothered expressions! But I must away​—​the lives of
+hundreds, perhaps, hang upon my steps;” and darting from her, he
+left her to the deepest feelings of despair.</p>
+
+<p>Leaning against the tree for the support her own limbs denied
+her, the unfortunate Zulmiera remained with her face buried in
+her hands, until aroused by the sound of footsteps. Hastily
+looking up, Raphe again stood before her. “Dearest Zulmiera,”
+said the pitying young man​—​“rouse thyself; I cannot leave thee
+thus; all may yet be well. I will immediately to the governor,
+and without implicating you as my author, inform him of the
+inpending attack. Much as I dislike the man, it is my proper
+plan​—​so now dry your eyes,” for the warm tears were again gushing
+down the cheeks of the repentant girl; “return to the house, keep
+yourself quiet, and trust the matter to me.” So saying, he
+imprinted a fond kiss upon her brow, and turning away, hastened
+with a quick step in the opposite direction.</p>
+
+<p>Mastering her emotions, Zulmiera returned to her home,
+determined, when the evening fell, to seek the cave, and if
+possible, persuade Cuanaboa of the impracticability of his
+schemes, and by that means, prevent the effusion of blood, which
+a meeting of the Caribs and English was sure to produce.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime, Raphe sought the presence of the governor, and
+without bringing forward Zulmiera’s name, contrived to give him
+the necessary information, and then departed, taking upon himself
+the office of scout. Preparations were immediately made for the
+intended attack​—​ambuscades
+<a id="p306" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+arranged, and fire-arms cleaned; and with anxiety
+the party awaited the rising of the moon.</p>
+
+<p>As the day grew to a close, Zulmiera became more and more
+restless, until at length, unable to bear the conflict of her
+feelings, she left the house, and, unperceived by the family,
+sought the promised meeting in the cave. The sun had sunk behind
+the waves, and the stars began to peep forth, as the half-Carib
+gained the entrance of the wood. Carefully threading her way
+through its tangled bushes, and avoiding as she went the numerous
+impediments, she gradually progressed deeper and deeper in its
+thickening gloom. The air was calm, and nothing disturbed the
+almost pristine stillness but the whisperings of the soft breeze,
+or the shrill cry of some of the aquatic fowls who made that
+lonely grove their home. In some parts the foliage was less
+thick, and the beams of the now rising moon forced their way
+through and snorted upon the ground, forming many a fantastic
+shadow. Uprooted and sapless trees lay in various directions,
+around which parasites wound in luxuriant beauty, and hid the
+whitened wood in wreaths of green. In other parts, the larger
+trees and shrubs made way for dense thickets of thorny underwood,
+over which the active girl was obliged to leap.</p>
+
+<p>Onward she sped, stopping only now and then to recover her
+breath, and then darting forward at increased speed, until,
+gaining a little knoll, where pointed crystals strewed the
+ground, and the manchineel showered its poisonous apples,
+beautiful and treacherous as “Dead Sea fruits,” a mark in one of
+the trees told her she was near the place of her destination; and
+winding round another thicket, Zulmiera stood before the mouth of
+the cave.</p>
+
+<p>The interior was lighted by a few torches of some resinous
+wood, stuck in the fissures of the rock; and their flickering
+light shone upon the dark countenances and wild costume
+of the inmates. Branches of trees roughly plaited together
+were placed partly before the opening, and served to screen
+the light of the torches from the view of any wandering
+<a id="p307" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+stranger; while the ground before the entrance to the cave
+had been cleared away, forming a kind of rustic amphitheatre.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the maiden was perceived, Cuanaboa came forward, and
+introduced her to Guacanagari, and a few of their principal
+followers, who only appeared to be waiting for her presence, to
+commence their solemn dance, as was ever the custom of the
+Caribs, before undertaking any warfare.</p>
+
+<p>Darting from the cavern, about twenty of these wild warriors
+arranged themselves in a circle around an old woman, known among
+them by the name of Quiba, who, squatting upon the ground,
+chanted, in a monotonous voice, the burden of a war-song: the men
+moving slowly, and joining in the chorus​—​“<i>Avenge the bones of
+your fathers, which lie whitening upon the plain!</i>” Continuing
+this revolving motion for some time, but gradually increasing in
+celerity, they at length appeared as if worked up to the highest
+pitch of their passions; and releasing each other’s hands, and
+twirling round and round with the greatest rapidity, tearing
+their hair, and gnashing their teeth, at length threw themselves
+upon the ground, foaming with rage.</p>
+
+<p>Zulmiera, terrified at their frantic movements and horrid
+contortions, tremblingly leant against the trunk of a tree,
+until, aroused by an exclamation from the old woman, she
+perceived another party of savages, apparently of meaner grade,
+bringing in large calabashes and baskets, huge pieces pf baked
+meats, and bowls of some kind of liquids. Placing them upon the
+ground, they retreated; and old Quiba, quitting her recumbent
+posture, seized upon one of the pieces of meat, and throwing it
+among the prostrate warriors, exclaimed, in a cracked voice​—​“<i>Eat
+of the flesh of your enemies, and avenge your fathers’ bones!</i>”</p>
+
+<p>As she uttered these words, the men sprang from the ground, and
+rushing upon the viands, devoured them with savage greediness;
+while Cuanaboa, lifting up one of the smaller pieces of meat,
+approached Zulmiera, and, with
+<a id="p308" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+harshness, requested her to eat
+it. Alarmed at his ferocious manner, but not daring to shew it,
+the trembling girl essayed to obey; and putting a portion of it
+into her mouth, by a strong effort swallowed it. No sooner was
+this effected, than, breaking into a horrid laugh, and with his
+eyes gleaming like the hyæna’s, Cuanaboa shouted to the old
+woman, who had just before entered the cave​—​“Bring forth our
+present for our queen; surely, she deserves it, now she is one of
+us!”</p>
+
+<p>Startled by his evident irony, Zulmiera turned round, at the
+moment that Quiba emerged from a natural passage in the interior
+of the cave, bearing in her hand a small bundle, which, with a
+sardonic grin, she laid at the feet of the observant girl.
+“There, lady; that is our first present,” croaked forth the old
+hag. “Ay, lift it up, and search it well; Mayboya will stand your
+friend, and send you many more, I hope.” So saying, she hobbled
+up to one of the torches, and taking it from its resting-place,
+held it before the face of Zulmiera.</p>
+
+<p>Impelled by an irresistible desire to know the worst, Zulmiera
+stooped and undid the folds of red cloth wound around their
+proffered gift. After untwining it for some time, the wrapping
+felt damp to the touch; and dreading she knew not what, she
+loosed the last fold, <i>and a human head rolled upon the ground</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Uttering a cry of horror, but forced on by her unconquerable
+emotions, she turned the gory object round; and as the torches
+flashed with further glare, her eye fell upon the pallid
+features. The blue eye, glassed by the hand of death, and over
+which the starting eyelids refused to droop​—​the parted lips,
+parted with the last throe of agony, and shewing the pearly
+teeth​—​the finely-moulded cheeks, but disfigured by a deep
+gash​—​and the long auburn hair, dabbled with the blood that still
+oozed from the severed veins, bespoke it Raphe de Merefield’s!
+Her own blood congealed around her heart like ice​—​her pulse
+quivered and stopped​—​and with one unearthly, prolonged shriek,
+the unfortunate Zulmiera sank senseless upon the ground.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p309" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+Recovered by the means of some pungent herb applied to her
+nostrils, by the hands of Quiba, she awoke to all her misery. Her
+eyes fell again upon the mutilated head of her lover; while the
+demoniac voice of Cuanaboa whispered in her ear​—​“The food you
+partook of just now <i>was part of the body of your minion!</i> I met
+him wandering in the copse a time agone; and I thought he would
+make a fine sacrifice to Mayboya.” This last horrible information
+completely altered her nature, and changed the fond loving girl
+to the disposition of a fiend. Lifting up the head, and
+imprinting upon the blood-stained lips one long fervent kiss, she
+enveloped it again in the wrappings of red cloth, and carefully
+binding it around her waist, was in the act of quitting the cave,
+when arrested by the powerful grasp of Cuanaboa.</p>
+
+<p>“Not so fast, lady!” exclaimed the Carib chief; “remember your
+oath to Mayboya! We still stand in need of your assistance to
+guide us to the house of yon white chief. Remember that was part
+of your bargain: let us in; and when we have vanquished the
+enemy, we shall still be willing to receive you as our queen;
+that is, if you will agree to take <i>me</i> for your king instead of
+the pale-faced boy, whose body has served to regale us and our
+people.” With eyes that flashed fire, Zulmiera was about to
+reply, when suddenly constraining herself, she simply
+muttered​—​“My oath to Mayboya!​—​follow me, then!” and with
+determined purpose, left the cavern.</p>
+
+<p>The whole party of Caribs, consisting of about eighty, were by
+this time gathered around the spot, armed with bows and arrows,
+clubs, darts, spears, and all the other rude implements of
+warfare. As the two chiefs made their appearance, they pointed to
+the moon​—​then rapidly ascending the heavens​—​and uttering a
+suppressed war-whoop, they commenced their march in the direction
+of government house, preceded by the half-Carib.</p>
+
+<p>Unconscious of pain, Zulmiera darted through the thorniest
+thickets, turned not aside for any impediment; but borne up by
+the hopes of revenge, she outstripped the most active
+<a id="p310" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+of the party. Knowing, as she did, that the inmates of
+government house were prepared for the attack, she felt
+assured that few, if any, of the Caribs would escape; but
+completely altered in disposition, from the effects of the
+horrible scenes she had gone through, she experienced no
+compunctious feelings for the event. Her only wish, her
+fixed purpose, was to possess herself of a dagger​—​stab
+Cuanaboa to the heart​—​<i>drink his warm blood as it gushed
+forth</i>​—​and after bathing the head of her lover with it, kill
+herself upon the spot. To deceive Cuanaboa, she pretended
+that her fear of Mayboya led her to conduct the
+party, an assurance which his own blind zeal for that dreaded
+deity caused him to believe.</p>
+
+<p>In furtherance of her dreadful scheme, she carefully avoided
+those spots where she supposed an ambuscade of English might be
+stationed; fearing lest some other hand should take the life of
+the chief. In this manner she was gradually progressing towards
+the house, thinking it more probable a weapon could be there
+procured, when in passing a clump of trees, one of the governor’s
+scouts, who was stationed behind it, and who was unable to bear
+the sight of the Carib chief so near him without endeavouring to
+take his life, sprang from his concealment, and rushing upon
+Cuanaboa, was in the act of stabbing him with a dirk, when, with
+the cry of some infuriated wild animal robbed of its prey,
+Zulmiera was upon him. Wresting the weapon from the astonished
+Englishman, the maddened girl fled after the Caribs, who, abashed
+by this encounter, and the sudden appearance of a troop of
+soldiers, were flying in the greatest confusion, and at their
+utmost speed, in direction of the before-named creek, where they
+had left their canoes.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the Caribs fell wounded by the way, from the fire of
+their pursuers’ muskets; but Cuanaboa, closely attended by
+Zulmiera, still kept on, until after passing over the same
+undulating ground, forcing their way through thickets, leaping
+over natural barriers, and creeping through leafy arcades, they
+gained upon the creek. But woe to the Caribs!
+<a id="p311" class="pagenumber" title="A legend of the savannah."></a>
+a party of English, in hot pursuit, were, in fact, driving them
+into a trap, at the point of their weapons. Throughout
+this irregular and hurried retreat, Zulmiera had never
+dropped her dirk, or her gory burden; neither had she lost
+sight of Cuanaboa; while the chief, seeing her dash the
+weapon from his uncovered breast, when one stroke of the
+Englishman’s hand would have caused his death, thought
+she had forgiven his horrid barbarity, and was well pleased
+to see her nigh him.</p>
+
+<p>As they emerged from the deeper glades of the wood, a volume of
+smoke rose above the trees; and upon gaining the open ground, the
+whole extent of their danger was revealed to the Caribs. There
+lay their canoes, a burning mass; while the foreground was
+occupied by another band of Englishmen, ready prepared for
+battle. Hemmed in on all sides, the Caribs fought with the fury
+of uncaged beasts, and sold their lives dearly. Many of the
+English were stretched upon the ground, a flattened mass, from
+the blows of their heavy clubs; while others, wounded by their
+poisoned arrows, only lived to endure further torments. Still
+Cuanaboa remained unhurt; and standing upon a gentle knoll,
+brandished his club, and dealt destruction upon the foremost of
+his enemies. His friends were rapidly falling around him; and as
+he turned to seek for refuge, Zulmiera approached him
+unperceived, and with one blow, drove the dirk into his very
+heart.</p>
+
+<p>Without a groan, the Carib chief sank dead upon the earth; and
+Zulmiera, kneeling by him, plucked the weapon from the wound, and
+applying her lips, <i>drank the warm blood as it gurgled forth!</i>
+Unbinding the head of the unfortunate Raphe de Merefield from her
+waist, where she had carried it throughout the fray, she gazed
+ardently at it; tenderly parted the still bright hair, imprinted
+a last kiss upon the cold lips, and then taking up in her hand
+some of the vital stream, which was still flowing from the wound
+of Cuanaboa, and forming a pool around him, she bathed the head
+with it, exclaiming as she did so, “Raphe, thou art avenged!
+<a id="p312" class="pagenumber" title="Zulmiera, the half-Carib girl."></a>
+thine enemy lies dead before thee, slain by my hand; and thy
+bride, faithful in life and death, comes to share thy gory bed.”</p>
+
+<p>These actions completed, she looked up. The dying and the dead
+lay stretched around her,​—​the conquering English were looking to
+their captives,​—​the last gleam of the fire was shooting upwards
+to the sky,​—​the moon had gained her zenith,​—​while, as if in
+contrast to that bloody field, the waters of the creek rolled on
+like molten silver, beneath her lovely beams. For one moment the
+wild but beautiful girl gazed upon the scene; old remembrances
+sprang up in her mind, and brought the tear into her eye. But
+dashing them away, she regained her former implacable mood; and
+as a party of the governor’s servants came forward to arrest her,
+placing one hand upon her lover’s head, she raised with the other
+the dirk​—​its bright steel glittered for a moment in the
+moonbeam​—​in the next it was ensheathed in her heart; and she fell
+a corpse upon that dire chief, to whom she owed all her misery.</p>
+
+<p>The scene of this Antiguan tragedy may still be viewed; the creek
+bears the name of “Indian Creek,” while the cavern in which they
+held their barbaric meeting is called “Bat’s cave.” The governor
+retained his office until 1660, when Charles II. was restored to
+the vacant crown; but refusing to acknowledge his sovereign, he
+was superseded, and the vacant post was filled by Major-General
+Poyntz, a royalist, who continued to act as governor until 1663,
+when Lord Francis Willoughby obtained a grant of the island.</p>
+
+<p>The name of Raphe de Merefield (the uncle of the young cavalier)
+appears with that of Sir Thomas Warner in the original grant
+signed by Charles I. It is still to be seen at “Stoney Hill,”​—​an
+estate belonging to the late Samuel Warner, president of Antigua,
+and a descendent of the old family. This property was willed by
+him to his god-son, ——— Shand, Esq., of the house of Messrs.
+Shand, Liverpool.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch26" class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a id="p313" class="pagenumber" title="Falmouth."></a>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Towns: Falmouth​—​Church and
+churchyard​—​Mangroves and acacias​—​Black’s
+Point​—​Bridgetown​—​Willoughby Bay​—​Its site and
+decoration​—​The superintendent of the Wesleyan
+schools​—​School-room​—​Methodist chapel​—​The
+Memoras​—​St Philip’s church​—​Beautiful
+views​—​Parham​—​Its derivation and site​—​St
+Peter’s church​—​Churchyard​—​The new
+church​—​Methodist chapel and school-room.</p>
+
+<p class="init">In the year 1675, six towns were appointed in Antigua as places
+of trade​—​viz., St. John’s, Falmouth, Old Road, (or Carlisle
+Road,) Bridgetown, Willoughby Bay, Bermudian Valley, and Parham.</p>
+
+<p>St. John’s, as the <i>capital</i> of the island, has already been
+noticed in a chapter by itself, and it now devolves upon me to
+endeavour to describe, what is almost indescribable, the
+arrangement of the other towns, which, with the exception of
+Bermudian Valley, are still in a state of existence.</p>
+
+<p>To commence with Falmouth. As it lies just before the traveller
+gains English Harbour, the road to it is the same already
+mentioned in our journey to that place; and consequently another
+description would be tiresome and superfluous. I must, however,
+remark that near the entrance of the town a pretty turn in the
+road leaves the blank-looking country, which so generally
+predominates between Falmouth and the capital, and leads you into
+a kind of defile; on one side, bordered by rugged banks thickly
+covered with the yellow acacia, and its sweet-scented blossoms;
+and on the other, by the picturesque ascent of Monk’s Hill,
+surmounted by all its frowning battlements.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref97" href="#note97">97</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p><a id="p314" class="pagenumber" title="Houses."></a>
+The town of Falmouth is noted for being the first part of the
+island settled upon by the English, who, under the command of Mr.
+Warner, son of Sir Thomas Warner, emigrated from St.
+Christopher’s in 1632, and laid out the surrounding country in
+fields of tobacco, cotton, and ginger, which were for some years
+after the staple commodities of Antigua.</p>
+
+<p>Humble as might have been the architectural ornaments of this
+town in those early days, it seems almost an impossibility to
+suppose them less then than they are at present; for if strangers
+(from some of our bustling maritime cities in Europe, for
+instance) were suddenly and unconsciously landed in the streets
+of Falmouth, they would to all certainty believe them to be so
+many pathways to the “castle of indolence;” and the irregular and
+dismal-looking buildings to be the habitations of some lawless,
+vagrant tribe. A few four-cornered houses, in shape like a
+pigeon-coop, and of dimensions to suit a dweller of <i>Lilliput</i>,
+are elevated a short distance from the ground by being placed
+upon empty boxes or barrels, or four pillars of rudely-piled
+stones, which arrangement forms a snug retreat for the pigs or
+poultry of the inmate, or serves as a reservoir for sundry
+discarded pots and pans, or other “household gods.” These
+habitations are as variously placed as the taste of their owners
+may chance to dictate. Some present an acute angle, others a
+<i>broadside</i> to the eye of passengers. Some stand in what I
+suppose is intended to represent a garden, whose rank weeds and
+straggling vegetables are guarded from the steps of the unwelcome
+marauder only by a <i>gate</i>, made from empty candle-boxes or
+barrel-heads, flanked by a thinly sprinkled row of some dwarf
+shrub, over which the gallant “Xit” (whom Mr. Ainsworth has so
+cleverly called into existence in his admirable “Tower of
+London”) could have stepped with the greatest ease; letting alone
+the frequent lapses in the enclosure, through which a bulky man
+might readily pass. To make all secure, however, these rustic
+gates are generally garnished with a huge padlock, which is of
+course <i>carefully</i> locked whenever the owner is absent;
+<a id="p315" class="pagenumber" title="The churchyard."></a>
+while the key, with admirable precaution, is tucked into
+some little peep-hole near, that it may be ready for the use
+of any stray visitants.</p>
+
+<p>A few of these dwellings are, however, of superior form and
+fabric; and one stands forth in all the glories of palisading,
+and if I mistake not, bright green verandahs. It looks, by the
+side of its pigmy neighbours, like the Colossus of Rhodes, to the
+mandarin figures in our English grocers’ shops.</p>
+
+<p>The present church, dedicated to St. Paul, is a plain,
+uninteresting-looking building, standing at the outskirts of the
+town, and capable of affording about 400 sittings.</p>
+
+<p>The churchyard might be made as picturesque, and looks as quiet,
+as some of those pretty rural burial-places we oftentimes alight
+upon in dear old England’s sequestered nooks. Some fine trees,
+and a few handsome monuments, are to be met with; and if the rank
+grass was cleared away a little, and some of the various
+beautiful flowers, which are to be found in all parts of the
+island, planted there, it would present a spot equalling in
+appearance many of our modern cemeteries.</p>
+
+<p>It may by some be thought folly thus to beautify the place of
+death​—​to garnish that spot where the worm revels upon the once
+animated clay!​—​to plant the gladsome, gaily-tinted flowers where
+all is mouldering beneath! Be it so​—​yet would I see the flowers
+blooming over the grave of those I have loved, and while seated
+near, feel that the bitterness of death is past, and that their
+happy disembodied spirits range, free from all sorrows, amid the
+amaranthine bowers of heaven! Like the late talented and
+oft-lamented “L. E. L.,” I love to frequent the scene of our last
+resting-place​—​like her, to—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+  <p class="stanza">“Stand beneath the haunted yew,<br/>
+    &#160;&#160;And watch each quiet tomb;<br/>
+    And in the ancient churchyard feel<br/>
+    &#160;&#160;Solemnity, not gloom.</p>
+
+  <p class="stanza">The place is purified with hope—<br/>
+    &#160;&#160;The hope that is of prayer;<br/>
+    And human love, and heavenward thought,<br/>
+    &#160;&#160;And pious faith are there.</p>
+
+  <p class="stanza"><a id="p316" class="pagenumber" title="Black’s Point."></a>The golden cord which binds us all<br/>
+   &#160;&#160;Is loosed, not rent in twain;<br/>
+   And love, and hope, and fear unite,<br/>
+   &#160;&#160;To bring the past again.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>The parochial school is held in a small house near the church. It
+is conducted upon the same plan as the other schools of the kind
+in Antigua; the instruction consisting of lessons in reading,
+writing, arithmetic, repetition of catechism and hymns, and
+plain-work for the girls.</p>
+
+<p>St. Paul’s has a chapel-of-ease in English Harbour; which was, in
+truth, a private dwelling-house, but now, disencumbered of its
+partitions, serves as a chapel, and is capable, it is said, of
+affording accommodation for 350 persons; during the week, it is
+appropriated to the use of an infant school.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of Falmouth is thickly studded with clumps of acacia,
+privet, and prickly pear; all of which are of the <i>thorny
+family</i>, and if report be true, serve the inhabitants instead of
+pins. Between Falmouth and English Harbour lies a marshy thickly
+covered with sand, and dotted about with groups of
+mangrove-trees, in all their glittering, green foliage, forming
+so many <i>oases</i> in the midst of a burning desert. The sea
+overflows this spot at times, and leaves its tribute in the shape
+of small shells and bunches of sea-weed.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite to Falmouth, looking across the waters of the harbour, a
+bold promontory stretches out into the ocean, to which has been
+given the name of “Black’s Point.” As it belongs to a gentleman
+of that name, it is generally supposed in Antigua, to derive its
+cognomen from that cause. Such supposition is, however,
+incorrect, for it is laid down in an old chart of the island as
+“Black’s Point” long before its present possessor came into
+existence. The real origin of its bearing that appellation is
+from the fact of its having been the place where it was customary
+to land the cargoes of newly-imported negroes, prior to the
+abolition of the slave trade; and from this circumstance the name
+it now bears was given to it.</p>
+
+<p>Falmouth Harbour is considered one of the best in Antigua,
+<a id="p317" class="pagenumber" title="Bridgetown."></a>
+and is
+capable of affording safe anchorage for ships in those times of
+danger to which the West Indies are exposed. The shores of the
+bay boast their silver fringe of sand, which is often selected by
+the parent turtle, as a place of safety, in which to deposit her
+two or three hundred eggs; and when the sun has performed the
+duties of incubation, which the lethargic mother refuses to
+perform, numbers of these little creatures may be seen, crawling
+towards their favourite element, where they feast and fatten,
+until, perhaps, in after-years, they are doomed to increase the
+table store of some Antiguan <i lang="fr">gourmand</i>, or, perchance, find
+their way to England, and tickle the palate of “the lord mayor,
+and the other city authorities” within the sound of Bow bells.</p>
+
+<p>Old Road (or Carlisle Road, as it was once called) and St. Mary’s
+church having been already described, in our “pilgrimage to Tom
+Moore’s Spring,” it remains for me, in the next place, to mention
+Bridgetown, or Willoughby Bay, as it is more frequently termed.
+Here, again, I have the task of describing, what is almost <i>a
+nondescript</i>, for no stranger would ever discover that it was a
+town unless the fact were pointed out to him. If the man who
+painted a lion was obliged to write under it, “This is a lion,” I
+am sure the person who huddled the three or four houses together,
+which constitutes Bridgetown, had need to have put upon a
+giant-like placard, “This is a town!” unless, indeed, a rather
+good-looking Methodist chapel, a small mission-house, a stone
+dwelling-house, with school-room attached, and a few of my
+<i>four-cornered</i> friends, stuck in here and there, like the dots
+in a landscape of some country painter, to represent <i>crows</i>, be
+sufficient to merit for it that lofty title, which Dr. Johnson,
+or some other lexicographer of equal renown, leads us to suppose
+signifies “a large collection of houses.”</p>
+
+<p>As regards the population of this <i>town</i>, (I like to give places
+their proper names,) I can give but little information. With the
+exception of the very kind-hearted superintendant of the Wesleyan
+schools, Mr. Charles Thwaites, and his equally
+<a id="p318" class="pagenumber" title="The school-room."></a>
+amiable wife,
+their very pretty little boy, one or two domestics, and their
+scholars of every shade, the only inhabitants I saw were flocks
+of black-headed gulls, busily employed in following their
+piscatory avocations; a few half-starved looking sheep, vainly
+endeavouring to screen themselves from the fiery beams of the sun
+beneath the leafless branches of some blighted shrubs; and three
+or four long-necked, screaming birds, known in this part of the
+world as gorlings, and which derive their subsistence from the
+same source as their neighbours, the gulls.</p>
+
+<p>After resting for a short time at the superintendant’s dwelling,
+we proceeded to the school-room, a most commodious apartment,
+measuring 50ft. by 48ft., and capable of containing 500 persons.
+The whole of this establishment, including the superintendant’s
+house, which is detached, was erected by the Church Missionary
+Society; but after being used by them for a short time, it was
+turned over to the “Ladies’ Society,” to whom it still belongs,
+although the Wesleyan Mission holds its school there.</p>
+
+<p>The school-room was but thinly attended upon the day of our
+visit, there not being more than 40 children​—​the usual number is
+about 100. Upon our entrance, they all rose up with “We’ll make
+our obeisance together, as children ought to do,” and then,
+quitting their raised seats, formed into double lines, their
+teacher at their head, and marched round the apartment to the
+tune of one of their infant rhymes. After performing many
+martial-like evolutions, they finally arranged themselves into a
+deep phalanx, and thus sang another of their little songs. Many
+of them are proficients in reading the scriptures, and are well
+versed in the historical parts of them. I hope and trust the
+education so liberally bestowed upon them, and above all, the
+religious instruction which they receive, may benefit their
+after-conduct, and lead them to do their duty in that sphere of
+life in which it has pleased their Creator to place them. I was
+much pleased to learn from Mr. Thwaites that, in almost every
+instance, the pupils who have left the schools under his
+<a id="p319" class="pagenumber" title="Mr. Thwaites."></a>
+charge
+have followed agricultural employments. To a country whose grand
+resource, and, indeed, entire dependence, is placed upon the
+cultivation of the sugar-cane, this conduct upon the part of its
+rising generation must be very important; and if the lower
+classes continue to do so, and not, because they are free,
+despise the hoe, Antigua may stand forth as pre-eminently
+flourishing among the other West Indian colonies.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Thwaites is the paid superintendant of all the Wesleyan
+country schools. His salary is 150<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling per annum, a
+small recompence (although quite as liberal as the mission can
+afford) for the constant care his responsible situation calls
+for, and which he performs with untiring zeal. For about
+twenty-nine years has this good man been employed in providing
+for the mental wants of the black population, and in endeavouring
+to lead their young minds to the only fount of real knowledge.
+Unmindful of passing events he has kept on his irksome task, (for
+irksome it must be to drive knowledge into the brains of some of
+these little negroes,) buoyed up by his feelings of deep
+philanthropy.</p>
+
+<p>The first few years of his employment were passed without
+receiving any reward, but the approval of his own conscience. As,
+however, his laudable exertions became known, he was engaged by
+the “Church Missionary Society,” whose interests he faithfully
+served for near ten years. Since that period he has been in the
+employ of the Wesleyan mission. Although from being such a
+valuable auxiliary in rearing “the infant mind,” and teaching
+“the young idea how to shoot,” the bishop would gladly have
+retained his services, provided he gave up all connexion with the
+Methodists.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Thwaites has under his charge eleven day-schools, with about
+800 scholars; and three Sunday-schools, with about 900 scholars.
+Besides attending these several schools, Mr. Thwaites visits the
+neighbouring estates in the evenings, for the purpose of giving
+the labourers religious instruction, and guarding his elder
+pupils, or those who have left his
+<a id="p320" class="pagenumber" title="Salaries of teachers."></a>
+schools, for the purpose of
+engaging in the avocations customary to their province in life,
+against those temptations to which their age and sex are most
+subject.</p>
+
+<p>It has been remarked in a late publication, (in commenting upon
+events in Antigua) that “after ransacking the whole freed
+population for a dozen suitable teachers of children, Mr.
+Thwaites could not find even that number who could read well.”
+Now, this is a great error, <i>and altogether contradicted by Mr.
+Thwaites himself</i>. The blacks certainly had not the means of
+improving themselves in former years, as the more fortunate
+generation have had since emancipation; but that the <i>whole</i>
+class were so totally ignorant as not to be able to <i>read</i>, is
+entirely incorrect. In proof of this, the superintendant pointed
+out to our notice several teachers who were well adapted for
+their employment; one in particular, who, Mr. T. remarked,
+conducted a school consisting of 120 scholars, which he
+instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic, in which last
+branch of education many of his pupils had attained to “Practice”
+and “Vulgar Fractions.”</p>
+
+<p>The salaries of these paid teachers (of which there are
+seventeen, the remainder giving their services without any
+recompence) are very small​—​not more than from three to four
+dollars (12<i class="currency">s.</i> and 16<i class="currency">s.</i> sterling) per month. They are paid by
+the “Ladies’ Negro Education Society,” and other benevolent
+societies in England, who also defray the other expenses of the
+schools, with the exception of the superintendent’s salary, which
+is provided by the Wesleyan mission. The children, who receive
+instruction in writing, cyphering, and needlework, pay a small
+pittance, which is placed in the school fund.</p>
+
+<p>There is a very neat and excellent little library attached to
+the Willoughby-Bay school, where the works of “Abbott,”
+“Sherwood,” “Pike,” and various other pious authors, are
+open to the use of all, besides treatises upon geography,
+history, and experimental philosophy. The lighter works,
+such as Mrs. Sherwood’s pretty, and often affecting, little
+<a id="p321" class="pagenumber" title="Bees."></a>
+narratives, are read, Mrs. Thwaites informed me, with
+avidity by the negroes, to which intelligence their well-thumbed
+covers gave a tacit assent. Around the schoolroom
+were hung various cards, with texts of scripture printed
+upon them in large characters, that “such who run may
+read”​—​a practice I greatly admire, for turn whichever way
+you will, some goodly sentence meets your eye.</p>
+
+<p>In the neat little yard attached to Mr. Thwaites’ dwelling, we
+met with some old friends of mine​—​a small wooden hive of “busy
+bees.” A pane of glass inserted into the box gave us a view of
+the industrious little creatures building their waxen cells, in
+which to store their fragrant food; but the weather was against
+them​—​the long drought had withered the flowers, and thus
+curtailed their stock of honey. There are very few bee-hives to
+be met with in Antigua. This is rather strange, as all Creoles
+are noted for having a “sweet tooth,” and consequently honey is
+reckoned a luxury. It cannot be from want of proper food, that
+the labours of these little insects are discountenanced, for
+Nature has been most prodigal of her stores to Antigua, and
+clothed her every hill and dale with melliferous blossoms.</p>
+
+<p>I have heard of one gentleman, however, who was very anxious to
+establish an apiary upon his property in Antigua, and accordingly
+he obtained some choice hives, which in due time were safely
+deposited in his well-stocked garden. Soon after their arrival,
+however, business called him from the island, and he committed
+his valued bees to the care of his overseer, a true son of
+Hibernia, with an expressed hope, “that they would not wander
+from home.” The day after his departure, the overseer, wishful of
+obliging his employer, stole from his multitudinous duties a
+sufficient time to watch the movements of his buzzing charge. The
+bright sun drew them from their hives, and jocund in their little
+hearts, away they bounded on the balmy zephyr. Innumerable
+flowers dazzled their eyes, and courted their attention. Here the
+gorgeous <i xml:lang="zxx-x-taxon">hybiscus</i> spread out its glowing bosom​—​there the
+<a id="p322" class="pagenumber" title="Anecdote."></a>
+blushing <i xml:lang="zxx-x-taxon">frangipanne</i> loaded the air with its rich fragrance.
+At one moment they inserted their trunks into the sweet-scented
+cup of the jasmine; at the next, and they brushed the pearly dew
+from the brilliant radii of the passion-flower. Onward they flew,
+allured by flowerets of every colour, each one as</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“Fair as the fabulous Asphodels;”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">until at length, to the dismay of the overseer, they were lost to
+sight! He was no naturalist: he had never studied “Réaumur” upon
+the “habits of bees,” and as the last straggler disappeared, he
+thought “Well! Mr. ——— hoped they would not wander from home, but
+by St. Patrick they’re all gone, and if they ever come back is a
+query.” However, as nothing could be done, he was obliged to
+leave them to their fate; and in a rather disconsolate mood, “he
+turned and left the spot.”</p>
+
+<p>Hours wore away,</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="stanza">“The evening came, the sun descended,”</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="noind">and the truant insects returned to their hive, to the great joy
+of the observant overseer. “Ah! ah!” said he, as they alighted,
+heavily laden with their luscious store, “a pretty trick you have
+played me to-day; but by my patron saint, I will take care of you
+to-morrow.” He watched until they were all safe housed; and then
+with hurried steps, and self-congratulatory hitches of the
+shoulders, he sought the spot where masons had been lately
+working. Providing himself with some of the soft mortar, he again
+visited the apiary; and with ready will, and determined purpose,
+applied to the opening of each hive a sufficient quantum of the
+cement, so as to effectually forbid the egress of any bee. It is
+almost needless to mention, that upon the return of the
+gentleman, whose absence had been protracted, he found his
+favourite insects defunct; nor need I animadvert upon the
+vexation his overseer’s management of an apiary caused him.</p>
+
+<p>To resume my subject​—​which the bees, and their untimely
+fate, drove from my head: after inspecting the school,
+<a id="p323" class="pagenumber" title="St. Philip’s."></a>
+and expressing our gratification, we proceeded to visit the
+Methodist chapel, a stone’s throw from the school-room. It
+is a plain wooden building, measuring 45 feet by 60 feet,
+and capable of containing 900 sittings. The burying-ground
+is attached, and serves as the place of interment for
+the whole town, and some part of the adjoining country.
+Adjacent to the chapel is the mission-house, a neat little
+domicile for such an extraordinary-looking place as Bridgetown.</p>
+
+<p>There is nothing interesting about Willoughby Bay. No glittering
+white sand, or clear blue water with its dazzling surf to be
+seen. A line of blighted, sickly-looking bushes shuts out the
+sight of the beach; and the part of the bay which greets our eyes
+looks gloomy and discoloured, as if from lurking reefs and
+shoals. Upon the opposite side of the bay, looking across the
+water, lies the Memoras, a long ridge of rocks, over which the
+sea rushes with tremendous force, and with a deafening noise,
+which may be heard at a considerable distance. Upon a still day,
+the angry moan of the waves can be clearly distinguished at
+Bridgetown. Willoughby Bay derives its name from Francis Lord
+Willoughby, who in 1663 was made Lord Proprietor of the whole
+island, by a grant from Charles II.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref98" href="#note98">98</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>St. Philip’s, the parish church, is situated upon an ascent, at
+some distance from Bridgetown, and commands one of the finest
+views to be met with in any part of the country. The eye ranges
+with delight over sloping hills and open glades; wood-crowned
+mountains, and silent valleys. Sugar plantations, in all the
+beauty of high cultivation, spread out their fields of rich and
+wavy green beneath our feet, interspersed with groups of simple
+negro huts, almost hid in their leafy enclosures; while on all
+sides, the ocean stretched out its interminable blue waters. It
+was a lovely day when we visited the spot,—</p>
+<blockquote>
+<p class="stanza"><a id="p324" class="pagenumber" title="Parham."></a>“The whispering winds were half asleep,<br/>
+                &#160;&#160;The clouds were gone to play,<br/>
+              And on the woods, and on the deep,<br/>
+                &#160;&#160;The smiles of heaven lay.</p>
+
+<p class="stanza">It seem’d as if the day was one<br/>
+                &#160;&#160;Sent from beyond the skies,<br/>
+              Which shed to earth above the sun,<br/>
+                &#160;&#160;A light of paradise.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>Of the first church dedicated to St. Philip no account can be
+given; but most probably it was built about the year 1690. The
+second church to that saint was erected about 1717. It was a
+wooden building, and no doubt possessed but little claim to
+architectural beauty. The present church is one of the prettiest
+I have seen in the West Indies. It is built of the smooth
+freestone, so generally found in Antiguan quarries; the only
+fault is, that they are cut too small, which, at a distance,
+gives them more the appearance of white bricks.</p>
+
+<p>The plan, like many of the other Antiguan churches, is cruciform;
+but there is so much chasteness displayed in the simple
+arrangement of the interior, that it must please every eye. The
+large oriel window is furnished with ground-glass, of the most
+elegant, yet simple devices; and the neat pulpit and desk,​—​the
+altar, gallery, and pulpit rails,​—​the wooden columns which
+support the roof,​—​the pews and doors, painted in excellent
+representation of rich-grained oak, please by their uniformity.
+They are in the gothic style. The decorations of the altar are
+very plain, merely consisting of the tables of the Commandments,
+the Lord’s Prayer, and the Creed.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the town of Bermudian Valley (of which I think
+there is scarcely a relic) “alone in its glory,” we come to
+Parham, the remaining place of trade appointed during the
+time Col. Rowland Williams held the deputy-governorship
+of Antigua. Parham takes its name from the title of Lord
+William Willoughby of Parham. In 1697, after the decease
+of Christopher Codrington, Esq., (the elder,) Parham appears
+to have been the residence of the lieutenant-governor,
+<a id="p325" class="pagenumber" title="New church."></a>
+in preference to St. John’s; and this circumstance gives
+rise to the statement of some authors, that Parham was once
+the capital of the island. It is another of those strangely
+straggling places whose streets are in many parts bordered
+with dagger (<i xml:lang="zxx-x-taxon">aloe vulgaris</i>) instead of houses; but still it is
+far superior to Bridgetown, for some of its edifices boast of
+covered galleries, or balconies, flights of stone steps, and
+many other decorations.</p>
+
+<p>The parish church of St. Peter’s, the second of the name, is an
+old dismal looking building, whose outward appearance is enough
+to give the observer a fit of that fashionable complaint,
+dyspepsia. It was erected in 1754, and affords 300 sittings. St.
+Peter’s has a chapel-of-ease, the private property of the Rev.
+Nat. Gilbert, a descendant of the “founder of Methodism” in
+Antigua, who was speaker of the house of assembly in 1764.</p>
+
+<p>From some strange freak, or else from dire necessity, Parham
+churchyard is situated at about two miles distance from the
+church and town. It was formerly surrounded by a brick wall, but
+that is all falling to ruin. A more desolate-looking
+burying-ground I never saw​—​not a tree or flower near it; the very
+birds in their aerial wanderings seem to shun the spot.</p>
+
+<p>At a short distance from St. Peter’s is fast rising into
+existence what will prove, when finished, a very neat and pretty
+church. It is an irregular octagonal​—​that is, the sides are not
+of equal dimensions. It is built of the same kind of stone as St.
+Philip’s; but has a better effect, from the blocks being cut of
+larger size. The base of the tower is constructed from the
+interior; but in its present unfinished state, (1842) with all
+its multiplicity of scaffolding and frame work, it is impossible
+to say what will be the effect; except, as I have before
+remarked, it will no doubt make a pretty appearance when
+completed. The architect is an Englishman, and the head mason (a
+black man) appears to be well-versed in the mysteries of his
+trade, to judge from the excellent smoothness in the joints of
+the walls, and from a
+<a id="p326" class="pagenumber" title="Rev. Mr. Keatley."></a>
+very neat key-stone which he has sculptured. This church
+is intended to take the name and service from the old one,
+which will then be dismantled.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the episcopal church, Parham boasts a very neat little
+chapel belonging to the Wesleyans, with a good stone
+mission-house and school-room adjoining. The general number of
+scholars at this school is seventy, including girls and boys;
+although upon our visit to it, there were not more than
+thirty-five. The school-room is a very airy and commodious
+building, capable of containing 600 or 700 persons. The children
+which compose the school are of every age, from three to
+fourteen. The instruction given them is plain, but
+good​—​scriptural knowledge, reading, spelling, writing, and
+arithmetic, with needlework for the girls. There are no pictorial
+embellishments in this school-room, merely a few selections from
+the Scriptures, cards of multiplication, and some black-painted
+boards upon which the children practise their little sums with a
+piece of chalk.</p>
+
+<p>The Wesleyan missionary stationed at Parham, the Rev. Mr.
+Keatley, (who appears to be a very amiable man,) mentioned as a
+well-known fact, that the schools in the country were always
+better attended the three first days in the week, and that after
+that period very few children made their appearance. Probably
+this is owing to their parents employing them in some domestic
+business which is more necessary at the close than at the
+beginning of the week.</p>
+
+<p>Parham harbour, although it affords safe anchorage when gained,
+is dangerous to the inexperienced navigator from the number of
+shoals and reefs which encumber its approach. It also contains
+some few islands, of which Bethel’s Island is the largest. This
+harbour is protected from the inroads of the enemy by Port Byam,
+erected upon Barnacle Point, and which derives its name from
+Colonel Edward Byam, some-time governor of Antigua. It is said
+that within the precincts of this fort, Colonel Byam had a small
+room erected, where he was in the habit of receiving and
+entertaining a
+<a id="p327" class="pagenumber" title="Forts and fortifications."></a>
+party of Caribs, who came yearly from some of the neighbouring
+islands, in order to smoke their calumets of peace
+with that gentleman.</p>
+
+<p>To the southward of Parham rises a curious hill, which is
+supposed to be the work of art, and to have answered for the
+burying-place of the ancient inhabitants, the Caribs. An old
+writer speaking of this tumulus, describes it as “in form a long
+square, very regular in all its parts, lessening gradually from
+its base to the top, which is flat, and may be from five to six
+hundred feet long, and from forty to fifty feet high.”</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note97" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref97">97</a>] From the summit of Monk’s Hill, the eye can range over the
+whole island of Antigua, with the exception of one part, where
+the mountains intervene. The principal work, named Fort George,
+is mounted with pieces of cannon, said to have been taken in the
+“Foudroyant” man-of-war, in one of the many conflicts between the
+French and English.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note98" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref98">98</a>] For the genealogy, and a general account of this family, see
+Appendix.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch27" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Forts and fortifications​—​Temporary
+ones​—​The present forts​—​Fort James​—​Its
+situation and approach​—​Rat Island Battery, its appellation, lunatic
+asylum, and flag-staff​—​Goat Hill​—​Steep
+ascent​—​Schools in St. John’s.</p>
+
+<p class="init">It might be imagined that where nature has done so much for her
+favourite isle in the way of barricading it, by giving to Antigua
+a bold rocky coast, <i>art</i>, in the shape of forts and batteries,
+would be less called for. This, however, is not the case; the
+island coaster meets with many an embattled point, and many a
+sea-girt cliff supports the frowning walls of a battery.</p>
+
+<p>The forts in Antigua are Fort James, Rat Island Battery, Goat
+Hill or Fort Barrington, Old Fort, Johnston’s Point Fort, Old
+Road Fort, Falmouth Fort, Fort Black’s Point, Fort Charlotte and
+Fort Berkley at the entrance of English Harbour, Fort Christian,
+Fort Isaac, Fort William, Fort Harman, Flat Point Fort, Old Fort,
+and Fort Byam; Parham Harbour, Dickenson’s Point Battery,
+Corbison’s Fort, and Fort Hamilton. Of these, the greater part
+were merely temporary fortifications erected in those days of
+warfare when the French and Caribs, in their shallops and
+perrigoas,
+<a id="p328" class="pagenumber" title="Fort James."></a>
+used to make such frequent attacks upon the island.
+Still, dismantled as many of these forts became in after-years,
+when peace spread her soft pinions over the lovely group of the
+Antilles, they retained their <i>names</i>, and served as sinecures to
+those persons who, from favouritism or superannuation, were
+exempted from militia duty, prior to the abolition of that body
+during the administration of Sir W. Colebrooke.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref99" href="#note99">99</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>The fortifications at present in use are, Fort James, Rat Island
+Battery, Goat Hill, Fort George, Fort Johnston’s Point, Old Road
+Fort, Monk’s Hill, and the forts at English Harbour.</p>
+
+<p>Fort James was erected about the year 1704-5, on a spot of ground
+known as St. John’s Point, which was given to his majesty Charles
+II., by Col. James Vaughan, in 1680. It is situated at the
+entrance of St. John’s Harbour, and commands at once a beautiful
+and extensive view, while, from its frowning battlements, a
+deadly and raking fire could be poured upon the adventurous enemy
+who dared its anger. The rock upon which it is built appears to
+overhang the sea; and the waves, from constantly fretting and
+foaming around its base, have completely undermined it. If all
+proper precautions be not taken, the fort and its accompaniments
+will, some day, probably make a rapid descent into the yawning
+gulf beneath, and its avenging weapons no longer vomit forth
+their flaming breath upon the dauntless vessel who dares to pass
+it, without tendering to its captain his expected dole.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref100" href="#note100">100</a>]</sup></p>
+
+
+<p><a id="p329" class="pagenumber" title="Rat Island Battery."></a>
+Fort James mounts but few guns, the rest are making themselves
+beds deep in the earth. This is one of the happy results of
+peace. Those murderous weapons repose in quietness, and that they
+may ever do so is my fervent prayer. A gun, however, is fired at
+sunrise and sunset; and her majesty’s ships, as well as vessels
+of war belonging to other nations, are complimented with a grand
+discharge. The arrival and departure of the governor, members of
+council, &amp;c., also call for a similar mark of honour. Serious
+accidents sometimes occur at such periods. A few months ago one
+of the matrosses had his arm so severely shattered by overloading
+the instrument when saluting a French man-of-war, that it became
+necessary to amputate the limb immediately. He has now happily
+regained his former health, and is employed upon the fort as a
+schoolmaster.</p>
+
+<p>The captain of Fort James receives 150<i class="currency">l.</i> sterling per annum,
+and the residence is one that many would gladly inhabit. Under
+him are stationed twelve matrosses, who receive very good pay.
+For the use of these last-mentioned persons, a temporary chapel
+has been established within these last few years, through the
+instrumentality of the Rev. John Horsford, Wesleyan missionary,
+son to the former governor of the fort, by which happy means they
+are enabled to attend Divine service once on the Lord’s day.</p>
+
+<p>The road from the capital to Fort James, a distance of about four
+miles, is not very noted for the interest it displays. As the
+traveller nears the fort, an arm of the sea runs far inland,
+twisting and twining its rippling waters amid the clumps of
+aquatic shrubs in a most snake-like manner. Through this,
+equestrians and pedestrians, the emblazoned carriage, and the
+more humble gig, alike have to pass, while shoals of fairy-like
+fish dart from their parent waters in all directions; and as the
+sunbeams catch their silvery scales, almost blind the looker-on
+with their dazzling coruscations.</p>
+
+<p>Rat Island Battery is of itself a most picturesque object,
+as the stranger approaches Antigua. It lies within the
+harbour of St. John’s, and takes its name from some fancied
+<a id="p330" class="pagenumber" title="Goat Hill."></a>
+resemblance to that most destructive little quadruped, a rat.
+I cannot say this isapparent to my eyes, but the believers
+in such a similitude say that the rock personates the body of
+the animal, while the causeway which connects it to the
+main land plays the part of a tail. I have already mentioned
+the lunatic asylum lately erected upon this rock, whose
+whitened walls look cheerfully down upon the waters beneath,
+and little tells the observer how many darkened minds
+wander within them. The flag-staff upon Rat Island is often
+gaily decorated with various flags, and with a beating heart
+my eyes have often sought it, for there I learn the tidings
+that another packet has arrived from my native land, and, as
+I hope, brought me one of those little packages traced with
+“a grey goose-quill,” and telling that those who are so dear
+to me are enjoying health and happiness in Old England.</p>
+
+<p>Goat Hill crowns the summit of a lofty hill upon the opposite
+side of the harbour to Fort James. When passing it by sea, our
+surprise is excited when we consider how it is possible to
+transport the heavy artillery and stores up the steep ascent; but
+the road is winding, and the difficulty is much sooner overcome
+than would be supposed. It was on the site of this fort that the
+French landed, in that memorable attack upon, and reduction of,
+the island in 1666. Near the base of Goat Hill, two peculiar
+shaped and blackened rocks rear their bare heads above the sea,
+around which the waves dash their lustrous foam with loud and
+angry moanings. The remaining forts, with the salaries of their
+several captains, and the means by which they are paid, will be
+found in the statistical portion of this work.</p>
+
+<p>From the forts, I proceed to mention the “Mico Charity” School at
+St. John’s, where instruction is given in various branches of
+knowledge. Upon my visit to this school, I must say I was
+surprised to find among the dirty ragged little negroes, which
+comprised it generally, a herd of geographers, historians, and
+grammarians. The head-master happened to be absent, but a
+messenger was immediately despatched to call him; and, upon his
+arrival, the examination
+<a id="p331" class="pagenumber" title="Mico Charity."></a>
+commenced, which I left entirely to themselves, wishing
+to see their own mode of tuition.</p>
+
+<p>The room, or rather rooms, were hung round with various pictorial
+embellishments, consisting of some very beautiful lithographed
+designs, representing the most interesting and affecting scenes
+in the Old and New Testament​—​birds and animals, fruits and
+flowers, steam apparatuses, machinery of all descriptions, modes
+of every branch of agriculture, and some excellent maps.</p>
+
+<p>A stand was placed in the middle of the apartment, and a boy of
+about twelve or thirteen took his station by the side of it, with
+the “wand of office” in his hand. It was now announced by the
+master​—​“Those boys who wish to ask questions, please hold up
+their hands,” when immediately about eight or ten, of the same
+age as the one stationed in the middle of the room, replied by
+the motion required, while an air of animation sprang to their
+eyes, and lightened the dusky hue of their complexions. The first
+question was proposed by a boy, black as the late member of
+parliament’s celebrated blacking, but whose scanty habiliments
+bore many a mark from the finger of time, and many a stain upon
+their once fair colour. “Who was Hannibal?” Answer, from the boy
+near the stand​—​“A Carthaginian general, who defeated the Romans
+in two engagements.”</p>
+
+<p>It was now his turn to propound​—​“How is the true situation of any
+place upon the globe shewn?” Answer, from an intelligent-looking
+little mongrel boy, who was in such haste to reply, that it
+called for the aid of the master to render his rapid utterance
+understood​—​“By the intersection of that imaginary circle, which
+we call a parallel of latitude, with the meridian of the place in
+question.” Having replied to this query, he asked the boy at the
+stand​—​“Who was the first Roman emperor that visited England, then
+called Britain, and in what year?”</p>
+
+<p>This was a puzzler. He could not answer to it; so he lost his
+conspicuous station, which was occupied by the more fortunate
+querist.</p>
+
+<p><a id="p332" class="pagenumber" title="School examination."></a>
+Various other questions were then proposed in history and
+chronology; after which, an examination in the Old and New
+Testaments commenced​—​the interrogatories being still propounded
+by the boy: “Who was the man that climbed up into the tree, to
+see Jesus pass?” “Zaccheus.”​—​“Where did Moses die?” inquired a
+pretty little girl. “On Mount Pisgah,” was the answer. A tall,
+rather grim-looking boy, started up, and, in a sepulchral-toned
+voice, asked​—​“What is the difference between Pisgah and
+Nebo?”​—​“Nebo appears to have been a point, or pinnacle, of Mount
+Pisgah,” replied a shrimpish boy by his side.</p>
+
+<p>An excellent map of the world was then brought, and attached to
+the stand in the middle of the apartment, so that the eyes of the
+whole school could rest upon it. The greater and lesser circles
+were then pointed out, the meaning of longitude and latitude
+defined, the form and divisions of the earth mentioned and
+descanted upon, and the sun’s path through the ecliptic
+described.</p>
+
+<p>The question was then proposed to the school​—​“Would you like to
+sing?”​—​“Yes,” from every lip. “You must promise to sing very soft
+and sweet,” quoth the master. “Soft and sweet,” reverberated from
+the whole of the scholars, like the tongue of an echo. Then came
+the “soft and sweet,” as they termed it; and if the <i>burden</i> of a
+song could give <i>melody</i> to the lips, it would have been more
+sweet than “the breath of the south wind upon a bed of violets,”
+as Avon’s favoured bard once sang; for it was all about our dear
+little Queen Victoria. To the tune of this loyal ditty they
+marched round the room, each class divided by their several
+teachers, carrying a pile of books, and then formed into
+semicircles, to be exercised in reading, writing, arithmetic,
+spelling, and grammar. Their spelling was very fair; many of them
+wrote a good hand; they all appeared conversant with the four
+first rules of arithmetic; and as for grammar, they talked about
+present tenses, and perfect participles, nouns, adverbs, and
+conjunctions, definites and indefinites, until I began to think
+they must have been born
+<a id="p333" class="pagenumber" title="The school-room."></a>
+with a “Lindley Murray” in their mouths.
+I wish I could speak as well of their reading; but I suppose boys
+who talk about Hannibal and Artaxerxes, ecliptics and globular
+projections, and descant upon the merit of tenses, esteem it too
+common-place to read correctly words of two or three syllables.</p>
+
+<p>The average number of boys and girls attending this school is
+from 140 to 160; although, from the prevalence of the measles
+upon my visit, there were not more than half that number there.
+Young men are also received in this establishment as candidates
+for teachers; 100 of whom have, within these last four years,
+been disseminated throughout the schools in Antigua, and some of
+the other West India Islands, as fully qualified for instructing
+the rising generation in all the necessary branches of education.</p>
+
+<p>After experiencing the erudition of these advanced scholars, we
+passed into another part of the establishment appropriated to the
+use of the infant school. Here we found about sixty little
+creatures, two or three, to eight or ten years of age, seated
+upon their benches, raised one above the other​—​the elder ones
+occupying the upper tier.</p>
+
+<p>This apartment was also garnished with its pretty prints and
+Brobdignagian alphabets, and possessed its coloured maps and
+stands. The exercises were conducted in a similar manner as
+those in the other part of the seminary: an intelligent-looking
+little black boy taking his place by the centre stand, beside the
+map of Palestine, and answering very fluently the various
+questions proposed to him by the other children, at the same time
+pointing out the places. “Where did Jesus turn water into wine?”
+asked one of the little girls. “Cana, in Galilee.”​—​“Who got his
+cedars from Lebanon?”​—​“Solomon,” &amp;c. They then sang one of their
+pretty little songs, to the tune of which they marched round the
+room, and, formed into classes, read, from a selection of pieces,
+“Dr. Franklin’s Whistle.” It was too difficult for them, and they
+bungled sadly through it; for although, like the elder pupils,
+they were geographers and historians, they had
+<a id="p334" class="pagenumber" title="Repositories of learning."></a>
+not made much
+progress in the art of reading. Their lessons over, they sang an
+anthem; and then, after a short prayer offered up by the master,
+the school broke up, and away they started with whoop and song,
+leaving me to ponder in my brain how far their manifold knowledge
+would benefit their after progress through life.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the Wesleyan and Mico schools, Antigua is further
+supplied with “repositories of learning,” belonging to the
+established church and the Moravians. Our worthy rector, zealous
+in every good work, has a pleasing little infant-school near the
+rectory, besides schools in various other parts of the town and
+country. The Moravians have large schools at their different
+settlements; and a boys’ and girls’ school, with infant-school
+attached, adjoining their chapel in St. John’s. I visited this
+last-mentioned school twice; but I am unable to speak of the
+acquirements of the scholars​—​they having been dismissed soon
+after my entrance, upon both occasions. They appear to cultivate
+the art of singing; for I heard them join in Mrs. Hemans’ “Better
+Land,” to the accompaniment of a small, but very sweet-toned
+organ, played by their superintendent. If I may be allowed to
+judge of the manners of the children, (which, I own, would not be
+quite right,) by those of the female teacher, I should be
+inclined to say, they were far behind any of the other schools I
+have visited in the island; for she appeared totally deficient in
+politeness or agreeable behaviour.</p>
+
+<p>I have thus endeavoured to shew that Antigua abounds in
+schools​—​the exact number of which will be found in the chapter on
+statistics. I sincerely hope that the benefits arising from them
+may be permanently felt by the lower classes, and that the
+patrons of these schools may reap the reward of their
+philanthropy. There are some sad examples: (sorry am I to be
+compelled to say so!) where, instead of improving, education has
+but tended to lead further into the paths of error; for the very
+passages of Scripture that have been taught them​—​the doctrines of
+salvation which have been inculcated, these unhappy creatures
+pervert to raise
+<a id="p335" class="pagenumber" title="Negro learning."></a>
+their ungodly mirth. Oh, how do our ears become
+shocked at every turn of the street, at every hour of the day, by
+the language of this class of persons! while that great and holy
+name, “at which every knee shall bow,” is bandied about as a
+common interjection.</p>
+
+<p>There are some to be met with among the negroes whose display of
+learning is very ludicrous. We have a servant now living with us
+who often calls up from me an involuntary smile. I heard her
+speaking the other evening to a fellow-servant, whose name is
+Diana. “Diana, my goddess! come here. Let me see, Diana was the
+goddess of <i>truth</i>, and Junus the goddess of <i>sleep</i>, and so you
+must not tell me a story, or go to sleep!” Diana did not appear
+to comprehend this burst of eloquence, and so her friend went on
+to explain to her, that as “<i>Airy</i> was the ram, and <i>Callus</i> the
+bull, Virgo was a lion, and Quaris was a water-pot;” she must bow
+to her superior knowledge in everything. To this, Diana humbly
+assented with “Ees, Miss Charlotte!” accompanied by a stare of
+amazement. I don’t wonder, however, at poor Diana’s surprise at
+her friend’s knowledge; I am sure she often startles me. Another
+evening, I saw her standing in the yard, with outstretched arms,
+and upturned eyes, gazing upon a bright star, which twinkled
+above, while in a very lackadaisical tone, she exclaimed, “Oh,
+Mars! <i>invoke</i> me by thy rays!”</p>
+
+<p>I hope, however, what I have said in this last page will not
+discountenance those worthy characters who are employed in
+opening the book of knowledge to the eyes of the ignorant. In the
+words of a much-admired writer, “the delightful hope may be
+cherished by him who shall bring his mite for the promotion of
+the Lancastrian system of instruction for giving knowledge to the
+ignorant​—​the hope that he is providing for the display of a
+genius in works of the highest utility, which might otherwise
+have expended itself in a career of infamous contrivance, long
+operating as a pest to society, terminating in the ignominious
+destruction of the victim of the want of education. And when the
+intimate
+<a id="p336" class="pagenumber" title="Introductory remarks."></a>
+connexion between <i>ignorance</i> and vice is considered,
+surely all who wish to lessen the sum of the latter will assist
+the endeavours that are now making to plant the tree of
+knowledge amid the desert and deformed waste;—​to convert
+that which is now cheerless and blank into a field of profuse
+beauty teeming with the real wealth and strength of nations.”</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note99" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref99">99</a>] Several of these forts were sold by the legislature, after
+the conclusion of the war with America.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note100" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref100">100</a>] It has been the custom, although the <i>law</i> does not command
+it, to pay to the captain of this fort 18<i class="currency">s.</i> currency, for every
+vessel, no matter what her tonnage, passing from the harbour. As
+there are many owners of small crafts in Antigua, whose pockets
+are not so well provided with this world’s wealth, as to enable
+them to fling it abroad upon every occasion, they are glad to
+take advantage of the absence of necessity, and retain for their
+own use the two dollars, which custom or caprice has reserved for
+the commandant, and pass the fort without paying the tribute.
+This conduct is generally resented by despatching after the
+offending vessel an angry message, in the shape of a cannon-shot.
+It appears extraordinary, that such a monstrous and illegal
+proceeding as firing upon the vessels should be permitted, or at
+least tacitly sanctioned by the government.</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id="ch28" class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="argument">Remarks upon the aboriginal
+Americans​—​Suppositions of various
+authors​—​Caribs​—​Arrowawks​—​Ferocity of the
+Carib​—​Complexion​—​Dress​—​Ornaments​—​Dreadful
+revenge​—​Wars-Chiefs​—​Severities
+practised​—​Feasts​—​Remarks upon
+paganism​—​Anthropophagi​—​A traveller’s
+tale​—​The Carib’s opinion of death​—​Religious
+tenets​—​Altars​—​The burning Carib.</p>
+
+<p class="init">It may perhaps be proper to remark, that although this work has
+been entitled, “Antigua and Antiguans,” still, as I have
+commenced its history from the period of its first discovery, it
+will be necessary to say something about its ancient inhabitants,
+the Caribs. As it is impossible at this lapse of time, to give
+the history of the individual tribe who peopled this island, I
+have been obliged to gather my information from what the early
+writers have transmitted to posterity, of the habit and customs
+of the entire nation. Consequently, while I am writing of the
+Carib of Antigua, or, as the island was called at that period,
+“Xamayca,” I must at the same time allude to those of the other
+islands; only remarking, that ferocious as they all were, the
+Carib of this country seems to have borne the pre-eminence in
+hardy daring and relentless animosity toward their conquerors. In
+the same manner, I have thought proper to give a short account of
+the discovery of America, as antecedent to that of this island;
+and as, in furtherance of my plan, I have introduced Columbus to
+my readers, from his boyhood, it is but right I should trace the
+Caribbean nation from their source. With this apology for
+<a id="p337" class="pagenumber" title="Origin of the Americans."></a>
+trying the patience of my readers, while I write of a people
+whose existence is no more, I will proceed with my subject,
+which I hope may neither prove foreign nor unpleasant.</p>
+
+<p>To enter into minute inquiries how America and its contiguous
+islands were <i>first peopled</i>, would fill many volumes, the
+opinions of the learned upon this subject being so various. Some
+authors suppose the Americans do not derive their existence from
+the same common parent as the rest of mankind. Others, that they
+are descended from a remnant of the antediluvian world which
+survived the deluge; but this must be erroneous, or how are we to
+understand the sacred historian, when, speaking of that momentous
+circumstance, he says​—​“And all flesh died that moved upon the
+earth, both of fowl, and of cattle, and of beast, and of every
+creeping thing that creepeth upon the face of the earth, and
+every man. <i>All</i> in whose nostrils was the breath of life, <i>of
+all that was in the dry land, died!</i>”​—​Gen. vii. 21, 22. Again,
+many authors assert that their ancestors came from the north-east
+of Asia, after the dispersion of the people for their impious
+attempt to build the Tower of Babel; and to establish this
+doctrine upon a firmer basis, endeavour to point out the great
+similitude between the Asiatics and the Southern Americans, in
+their manners, customs, and general appearance. Another, and
+perhaps the most probable idea, is, that the <i>southern</i> parts of
+North America, and the islands which lie in the Gulf of Mexico,
+and the Caribbean Sea, were originally peopled by Africans. This
+idea is maintained by various speculations:—​as the trade-winds
+blow direct from east to west, a canoe of these savages might
+have been driven by bad weather across the Atlantic; and this
+position may be further proved by the statement of the Indians of
+Florida, who, when asked about their origin, reply, “that their
+ancestors came from the east, and that at the time they
+discovered America, they were nearly dead from want of
+provisions.” These Africans, uniting with the different tribes
+with which the other parts of America were peopled, must have
+produced the various degrees of colour and character which
+<a id="p338" class="pagenumber" title="Columbus."></a>
+astonished so much the first discoverers of this extensive
+quarter of the world.</p>
+
+<p>The Caribs, from whom Antigua and the adjoining islands took
+their names, were a very different race of beings from the gentle
+and hospitable inhabitants of Cuba, Jamaica, Hayti, &amp;c., who were
+called Arrowawks, and with whom the Caribs were ever at war. From
+the martial and ferocious spirit of the Caribs, and from their
+repasts upon human flesh, historians agree in supposing they were
+descended from the Africans; while, on the contrary, the
+peacefulness and indolence of the Arrowawks evidently bespeak
+them of an Asiatic origin.</p>
+
+<p>When Columbus visited these islands for the first time, he found
+the inhabitants so very savage, that he was for a while fearful
+of landing; but upon despatching small presents to them, they
+afterwards appeared more friendly, and desirous of an
+acquaintance. In nearly all of their huts were found relics of
+their horrid feasts upon the bodies of their slaughtered enemies;
+and in one of them, a man’s arm was roasting for the intended
+meal of the inmates.</p>
+
+<p>The character of the Caribs presents little of what is
+interesting to the imagination; ferocious, superstitious, and
+revengeful, they looked upon all strangers as enemies; and, in
+return, were dreaded as such by the inhabitants of the other
+islands; still they are represented as being, generally,
+peaceable and friendly to one another. They ever retained a high
+sense of equality and independence. Accustomed to be absolute
+masters of their own conduct, they scorned to follow the orders
+of others; and having never known control, they would not submit
+to correction. Many, when they found they were treated as slaves
+by the Spaniards, and that resistance or escape was impossible,
+sought refuge from calamity in the arms of death. While the Carib
+roamed in his native wilds, his reason was but little exercised,
+and consequently, his intellectual powers were very limited. His
+ideas never extended beyond the narrow sphere in which he moved,
+and everything but his present preservation and enjoyment was
+<a id="p339" class="pagenumber" title="Personal appearance of the Caribs."></a>
+perfectly indifferent to him. When disposed to sleep, no
+consideration on earth would tempt him to sell his bed; but in
+the morning, when satisfied with slumber, and prepared to set out
+on the usual business or recreation of the day, the Carib has
+been known to dispose of it for the smallest trifle which caught
+his fancy. The only thing they deemed of <i>real</i> value, was their
+weapons​—​consequently, when they found, by sad experience, the
+superiority of fire-arms over the bow and arrows of their own
+country, they viewed them with unbounded admiration; but the
+inventions and improvements of civilized life, with all the arts
+and manufactures of the Spaniards, they regarded with apathy, or
+paid them the same attention as we do the toys of childhood.</p>
+
+<p>Columbus noticed two distinct races of Caribs. One was quite
+black, with hair approaching to woolly; the other, of a deep
+copper colour complexion, with long, straight hair; the latter
+inhabited Antigua and the adjoining islands, while the blacks
+predominated more in the islands further south. In appearance,
+the Caribs were robust and muscular; their limbs flexible and
+active. They ornamented their hair with shells and grease; and
+some of them had it turned up like women, and decorated with thin
+plates of gold, which they procured from the Arrowawks. Their
+garments were composed of cotton cloth, fabricated by their
+females, and which they had the art of staining red, their
+favourite colour; but many of them were in a state of nudity. The
+cartilage of the nostril was perforated, and in it they stuck a
+piece of tortoise-shell, the bone of a fish highly polished, or a
+parrot’s feather. They adorned their arms, neck, and ankles, with
+the teeth of their enemies which they had slain in battle, or
+devoured at home. Their bodies were painted in the most hideous
+manner, which appears to have been intended to make them look
+more formidable in the eyes of their enemies than pleasing in the
+sight of their friends. The favourite style of doing this, was
+first to smear a quantity of red paint all over them; they then
+encircled one eye with a streak of white, and the other with one
+of black; they also disfigured
+<a id="p340" class="pagenumber" title="Savage customs."></a>
+their cheeks with deep incisions
+and horrible scars, which they stained with various colours; and
+the greater number and depth of these disfigurations constituted
+their idea of manly beauty, and martial appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Their revenge was deep and implacable​—​it resembled rather the
+wild fury of a lion than the passion of a man. When anger took
+possession of a Carib’s heart, he vented it against everything,
+whether animate or inanimate, which chanced to fall in his way.
+Although in general calm and apparently insensible to pain, if
+struck by an arrow in these moments of rage, like the North
+American Indian, he would tear it from the wound, bite it, spit
+upon it, and, dashing it to the ground, trample it to atoms
+beneath his feet. He never pitied​—​never forgave​—​never spared! To
+fall upon an enemy unarmed, knock him down, capture him, and
+finally eat him, was the boast of a Carib warrior! For this they
+were bred up from their youth. To bear with an unflinching spirit
+the most excruciating torments, inflicted by the hands of his own
+father and nearest kin​—​to suffer all the severities and unnatural
+cruelties which the savage breast was capable of imagining
+without betraying one symptom of weakness​—​to rise superior to
+pain, and baffle the rage of his persecutors by calmness and
+tranquillity, was the test by which the courage of the young
+Carib was tried. If he succeeded in this, he was looked upon as
+one of the warriors of his country, and pronounced “a man like
+themselves;” while, on the contrary, should one cry escape his
+lips, one supplication for mercy break from him, he was despised
+as a coward, and driven from society.</p>
+
+<p>When an expedition against the Arrowawks was intended, a chief
+was elected, with solemn ceremonies. During the time of peace,
+however, the Caribs appear to have owned no head; they paid,
+indeed, some little veneration to the old men, but this appears
+to have been merely from respect to their age,​—​at any rate, they
+were not able, by their influence, to protect the weak or the
+stranger. The man who aspired to lead his countrymen to war was
+obliged to
+<a id="p341" class="pagenumber" title="Cannibalism."></a>
+undergo the most severe sufferings before he was
+accounted worthy of that honour. If he was successful, upon his
+return he was treated with a grand feast, and was allowed to take
+as many captives for his own share as he liked, and alter his
+name a second time to that of the most formidable Arrowawk who
+had fallen by his hand, while his own people presented for his
+choice the most beautiful of their daughters. Their mode of
+warfare was very different to that of the present day,​—​they
+thought it no honour to fall fighting for their country. Their
+plan was, not to wait for a drawing up of their forces, but to
+capture all their foes they found unprepared, whom, at the end of
+the war, they carried home, and either slaughtered them for the
+grand feast, or kept them until they became sufficiently plump
+for eating. They preserved the fat of these poor creatures to
+anoint the bodies of their children, in hopes of making them as
+martial as themselves.</p>
+
+<p>Happy for us is it that we live in an age when Paganism, with all
+its accompanying horrors, has given place to the mild doctrines
+of Christianity​—​when this land, so beautified by the hand of
+Nature, is freed from those barbarous wars, those soul-sickening
+feasts of human flesh, which once polluted it! That man can
+actually devour his fellow-creatures is almost incredible​—​indeed,
+some persons of philosophical minds have doubted the truth of
+anthropophagy; yet, shocking as it is to the imagination, it has
+been too fully proved to be denied; indeed, some of the Caribs,
+when, in later years, they have been asked about this revolting
+practice, have unhesitatingly answered in the affirmative, and
+even gone so far as to say that Frenchmen eat better than
+Englishmen, and Englishmen better than natives.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref101" href="#note101">101</a>]</sup> Although,
+within these last years, so much has been effected by the
+laudable zeal of Christian missionaries, yet, even now, there are
+“dark corners of the earth” where
+<a id="p342" class="pagenumber" title="Carib hospitality."></a>
+human flesh is not only eaten
+from feelings of revenge, but partook of as a luxury.<sup class="fnref">[<a id="ref102" href="#note102">102</a>]</sup></p>
+
+<p>I read in a periodical, some time ago, a circumstance which may
+be termed a romance of real life. I pretend not to give it in its
+original words, but the tenour of the case is as follows: A
+gentleman was once travelling through the interior of Grenada, or
+Trinidad, I am not certain which, and after riding for some time
+through rocky defiles and umbrageous woods, he at length came to
+an open plain, on which was erected about half a dozen Carib
+huts. Riding up to the door of the principal one, an old man was
+seen reclining upon a rustic seat, who at the approach of the
+stranger arose, and, with much native politeness, invited him to
+alight, and spend the day at his hut. The gentleman, being one
+who was travelling in pursuit of knowledge as well as amusement,
+was well pleased to have the opportunity of becoming a little
+acquainted with the domestic manners of this ancient people.
+After walking about for some time, and making sketches of the
+various beautiful scenes which surrounded the hut, his attention
+was arrested by the plaintive cry of a female. Having a good
+supply of the “milk of human kindness” within his breast, and a
+heart open to the distresses of his species, the traveller
+determined to go in quest of the afflicted fair. Directing his
+steps by the sound of the voice, which appeared to issue from a
+magnificent grove of trees near the spot, he soon came in sight
+of the object of his commiseration, whom he found to be, not a
+fair, but a dark beauty, of sixteen or seventeen years of age.
+Her long black hair floated down her naked shoulders; the tears
+were rolling over her smooth brown cheeks; while her languishing
+dark eyes were turned with mournful looks upon the face of a man,
+who, with knitted brow, was employed in fastening her slender
+wrists to one of the trees. Supposing
+<a id="p343" class="pagenumber" title="Revolting meal."></a>
+she had committed some fault for which she was about to
+receive corporal punishment, the gentleman begged very
+earnestly for her pardon; and from the smile which passed
+over the harsh features of the man, he thought his request
+was complied with.</p>
+
+<p>The day passed very rapidly, and our traveller was delighted with
+all he saw. His host was all attention, pointing out to his
+notice whatever he thought would amuse; and when dinner was
+announced, ushered him into his hut with the air of a French
+<i lang="fr">petit-maitre</i>. The dinner table was laid out in the English
+style, in compliment to his guest; and the calabashes which
+contained the water &amp;c. were beautifully carved and stained. The
+first refreshment introduced was soup, which was contained in an
+English tin tureen, that shone like silver; and from the keen air
+of the mountain, and the exercise he had taken, our traveller
+made a very hearty repast upon it. After its removal, and while
+waiting for the other viands, the host asked​—​“How he liked Carib
+soup?” “Excellent!” said the gentleman​—​“very delicious​—​I must beg
+a few receipts from your <i>cookery book</i>.” “O, it’s very simple,”
+replied the old Carib, “if you have the proper articles to make
+it of: what you have been eating was made from the hands and feet
+of the girl you were begging for this morning!” What were the
+feelings of the traveller at this horrible information can be
+better imagined than described. The repast he had <i>shared in</i>,
+the fate of the poor girl, and his own situation amid a race of
+cannibals, filled him with horror, and almost drove reason from
+her throne. It is almost unnecessary to state that he left the
+scene of bloodshed as soon as possible; and never, never more did
+he think of visiting a Carib, or partaking of <i>Carib soup</i>. I
+have given the story as I received it; as to its <i>authenticity</i>,
+I will not take upon myself to vouch for it.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to the religious rites and tenets of the Caribs but
+little can be said, for but little is known with any degree of
+truth. They appear to have an idea that death was not a final
+extinction of being; but that the soul (or rather
+<a id="p344" class="pagenumber" title="Carib worship."></a>
+souls, for it
+was the general opinion among them that every pulse that beat in
+their bodies was a <i>separate</i> soul) went to another world, where
+they enjoyed themselves very much after the manner they did in
+this, and that their bows and arrows were as necessary there as
+here. For this reason they buried the weapons in the graves of
+their friends, and inhumed several captives with them, that they
+might have attendants in “the land of spirits.” Some authors
+assert that they acknowledged one great universal Cause, to whom
+they gave the name of “Mayboya,” who was invisible to them, but
+who watched their actions, and heard their words; that this being
+possessed an irresistible power; and that subordinate to him were
+many other gods. Other writers, however, maintain that the Caribs
+had not even a name for a deity; and that after death they
+believed they decayed away like the animals they were acquainted
+with. Which was the fact is a matter of surmise; but Columbus
+mentions that in several of their huts were seen little altars
+composed of banana leaves and rushes, and that upon these were
+laid offerings of fruit, fish, flowers, &amp;c. It seems probable
+that their religious principles were like those of other savages,
+suggested rather by the dread of impending evils, than gratitude
+for favours received. “We can all forget benefits, although we
+implore mercy,” was their motto.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the Caribs pretended to be magicians, and worshipped
+demons with rites and ceremonies of the darkest superstition:
+these people were termed Boyez, and in them was placed implicit
+faith. Upon the discovery of these islands, the Spaniards
+endeavoured to convert the natives to Christianity; but the means
+used to accomplish this were diametrically opposite to what they
+ought to have been. Instead of setting it forth as a doctrine of
+love and mercy, and inculcating its precepts with mildness and
+humanity, they shewed at once the bloody tenets of the church of
+Rome, and condemned those to the stake who did not immediately
+subscribe to their opinions.</p>
+
+<p>This manner of proceeding, instead of converting the
+<a id="p345" class="pagenumber" title="Cruelty of the Spaniards."></a>
+Caribs, only
+fixed firmer in their minds their dislike to the intruders; they
+witnessed their quarrels among themselves, their ferocious and
+implacable resentments, their insatiable thirst after gold, and
+the cruelties they perpetrated in searching after that metal. Can
+it be wondered at, then, that they did not believe the
+superiority of the Christian religion, as taught by the
+Spaniards, over their own? or that the rites of baptism, which
+they could not understand or appreciate, were despised by them?</p>
+
+<p>One of these unhappy people being condemned to be burnt for his
+attempts to save his country from the encroachments of its
+conquerors, was promised, by a Roman-catholic priest, admittance
+into heaven if he would only embrace the Christian faith before
+he died. “Are there any Spaniards in that region of bliss you
+tell me of?” inquired the unhappy victim. “Yes,” replied the
+priest; “but only such as are good.”​—​“Then I will never go there,
+where I may meet with one of that accursed race; for the <i>best</i>
+of <i>them</i> have neither worth nor goodness.” And from the cruel
+treatment these islanders met with, there was but too much reason
+in this exclamation.</p>
+
+<hr class="prenote"/>
+
+<div id="note101" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref101">101</a>] Some authors assert that this is only vanity in the French;
+that they think so highly of themselves, that even in the
+<i>interesting</i> point of being eaten, they will not allow the
+pre-eminence to other nations.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div id="note102" class="note">
+<p class="noind">[<a href="#ref102">102</a>] “The New Zealanders are perpetually carrying on war with
+each other, to which they are stimulated, not by thirst of
+conquest, but by the desire of eating the flesh of their
+antagonists!”​—​See Prichard’s “Researches.”</p>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<p class="cent"><small>END OF VOL. I.</small></p>
+
+<p class="cent"><small>T. C. Savill, Printer, 107, St. Martin’s Lane.</small></p>
+
+<p></p><p></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I
+(of 2), by Anonymous
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg's Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I (of 2), by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I (of 2)
+       A full account of the colony and its inhabitants from the
+       time of the Caribs to the present day
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+Release Date: February 7, 2012 [EBook #38788]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS, VOL I ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Paul Flo Williams
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                            ANTIGUA
+                       AND THE ANTIGUANS:
+
+
+
+                       A FULL ACCOUNT OF
+                 THE COLONY AND ITS INHABITANTS
+                  FROM THE TIME OF THE CARIBS
+                      TO THE PRESENT DAY,
+            Interspersed with Anecdotes and Legends.
+
+                             ALSO,
+
+              AN IMPARTIAL VIEW OF SLAVERY AND THE
+                      FREE LABOUR SYSTEMS;
+                 THE STATISTICS OF THE ISLAND,
+      AND BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF THE PRINCIPAL FAMILIES.
+
+          "Sworn to no party, of no sect am I."--Pope.
+
+                        IN TWO VOLUMES.
+                            VOL. I.
+
+                             LONDON
+              SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET.
+                             1844.
+
+                             TO THE
+                HONBLE ROWLAND EDWARD WILLIAMS,
+
+         LATE CAPTAIN IN THE 10th REGIMENT OF HUSSARS,
+         ONE OF HER MAJESTY'S PRIVY COUNCIL IN ANTIGUA,
+
+                    THE LINEAL DESCENDANT OF
+           THE FIRST WHITE CHILD BORN IN THAT ISLAND,
+        AND THE FRIEND AND BENEFACTOR OF ITS INHABITANTS
+                    OF EVERY HUE AND COLOUR,
+
+                           This Work,
+
+           DESCRIPTIVE OF ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,
+                  IS, BY HIS KIND PERMISSION,
+                           INSCRIBED
+              BY HIS FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED SERVANT,
+
+                                                     THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+                            PREFACE.
+
+
+
+Although in the present day the writing of a preface may be
+considered almost a work of supererogation on the part of an
+author, since it is that portion of a work seldom or ever looked
+into, still, as custom demands the form, and there may be some
+among my readers who may desire to learn what first led me to
+undertake this work, I am induced to follow the fashion, more
+especially as on one or two points I am desirous of offering a
+few words of comment and explanation.
+
+Not being a native of the West Indies, and visiting that part of
+the world for the first time at an age when all looks bright
+around us, the novelty of the scenes which passed before my eyes
+struck me forcibly, and induced me to make notes of the
+impressions I then received. Pursuing the same practice at
+subsequent visits, and during prolonged residences, in process of
+time my memoranda expanded to a considerable bulk. The increasing
+interest I took in everything relating to Antigua, led me to
+inquire into its early history, and to search out the origin of
+the numerous ancient families whose descendants have resided in
+the island from the period of its colonization.
+
+Some of my friends in the island who had become acquainted with
+my pursuits, were gratified by the specimens of my labours, which
+were exhibited to them, and urged me to throw my scattered notes
+into form. I yielded to their solicitations, and the result has
+been the following pages, which, while they afford a condensed
+history of the colony from its earliest days, present also a
+record of the impressions produced on one, at first, fresh from
+English society, but now, by long continued residence, become
+almost an Antiguan; having, it is hoped, lost all relics of
+English prejudice, but not become so biassed by her new
+connexions, or blinded by the many charms of Antigua or Antiguan
+society, as to hold the scales of justice unevenly.
+
+Having been resident in Antigua both before and after the passing
+of the Emancipation Act, and having had ample opportunity of
+judging of the practical effects of that memorable event, the
+observations I have made with relation to it may not be
+considered altogether unimportant.
+
+In perusing the early history of the colony, the English reader
+may be surprised to find how many men of family became early
+settlers in the West Indies; but when the eager spirit of
+adventure which immediately followed the enterprises of the
+Spaniards, and was so eminently conspicuous in the days of
+Elizabeth, is called to mind--when the causes which drove the
+"pilgrim fathers" forth are recollected, together with the
+numerous emigrations which took place from England, when the
+Royalists, in their turn forced to become fugitives, mostly
+sought a refuge in the West Indies, at first a safe and
+sanctioned asylum, till the very amount of the fresh influx of
+Royalist opinions made the West Indies a thorn in Cromwell's
+side, and compelled him to have recourse to strong measures to
+secure their obedience to his will,--when all these causes are
+considered, it becomes no longer a matter of wonder that much of
+the best blood of England runs in the veins of the people, not
+only of Antigua, but of the West India islands generally.
+
+In justice to the character of the country which I have learned
+to love, I must, although unwillingly, notice another and a most
+painful subject. I refer to the exceedingly harsh laws passed
+respecting the slaves, and the shocking executions of those
+concerned in the insurrection in 1736. In relation to the former
+point, it is sufficient to observe that such laws are almost
+inseparable from the institution of slavery itself, and that the
+stigma affected the mother country equally with her colonies,
+while it redounds to the honour of Antigua that she was the first
+to announce unbounded freedom to her slave population. With
+respect to the barbarous executions, they would not be tolerated
+in Antigua at the present day, even had she continued to be a
+slave-dealing colony; and they can only in justice be referred to
+a state of society when the practice of torture had hardly fallen
+into desuetude in the civil courts of Europe, when the
+Inquisition was in full glory, when, only a few years before, the
+politest capital in the world had looked unmoved on
+
+   "Luke's iron crown, and Damien's bed of steel,"
+
+and criminals continued to be strung up by dozens in England (and
+for many long years after) for offences which, in the present
+advanced state of society, no civilized state would visit with
+the punishment of death. What wonder, then, that at such a
+period, and under such alarming circumstances, the Antiguans
+should have shewn themselves cruel and barbarous?
+
+Before I conclude, I must not omit to tender my acknowledgments
+to the numerous friends who have kindly afforded me assistance in
+the course of my work, among whom let me make grateful mention of
+Edward S. Byam, Esq., the Rev. and Hon. Burgh Byam, Col. Byam,
+Dr. Furgusson, Nathaniel Humphreys, Esq., Deputy Colonial
+Secretary in Antigua, (to which latter gentleman I was indebted
+for access to the Records of the island,) to John Furlong, Esq.,
+(who obliged me with the will of Governor Parke,) Registrar of
+Antigua, to ------ Edmead, Esq., to Captain George B. Mathew, of
+the Guards, the Rev. D. F. Warner, and others.
+
+In conclusion, may the Great Giver of all good pour down His
+choicest blessings upon this beautiful and favoured little
+island; may her legislators be ably endowed in all true
+principles of jurisprudence; may her planters be blest with
+kindly showers, so that their golden canes may raise their "tall
+plumes" in luxuriance; may her merchants, the prop of every
+civilized state, be prosperous--her peasantry happy and good, as
+they are _free_; and, finally, may her ministers (of every
+denomination) be long spared to watch over and pray for her
+teeming inhabitants, that one choral song of praise may resound
+from every quarter and from every tongue.
+
+                                                     The Author.
+
+
+
+
+                            CONTENTS
+                               OF
+                       THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER I.
+
+  General Description of the Island--Appearance--Soil--
+  Productions--Climate--Early history--Discovery by Columbus--
+  Attempted settlement by Spaniards--Grant to Earl of Carlisle--
+  Settlement by d'Esnambuc--Williams--Governor Warner--Account of
+  Sir Thomas Warner, founder of the family
+
+                          CHAPTER II.
+
+  History of the island continued--Sir Henry Hunks--Descent of
+  the Caribs--Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook--Arrival of the Ship
+  Nonsuch--Sir Thomas Modiford--Earl of Warwick, Captain-General
+  --Captain Edward Warner--Colonel Rich--Colonel Lake--Mr.
+  Everard--Sir George Ayscue--Colonel Christopher Reynall--
+  Invasion by the Caribs--Dissensions among the inhabitants--Copy
+  of Colonel Reynall's letter to Cromwell--Attack upon St.
+  Domingo and Jamaica--Major-General Poyntz--Grant of Antigua to
+  Lord F. Willoughby
+
+                          CHAPTER III.
+
+  Rupture between France and England--War in the West Indies--
+  Loss of Lord Francis Willoughby--Colonel Carden--Capture of
+  Antigua by the French forces under M. de la Barre--Colonel
+  Fitche--Restoration of Antigua by the Treaty of Breda--Death of
+  Colonel Carden--Biographical notices
+
+                          CHAPTER IV.
+
+  Governors: Lord William Willoughby, Henry Willoughby--Arrival
+  of Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the progenitor of
+  the family of that name--Biographical remarks--Partition of the
+  Caribbee Islands--Sir William Stapleton--General Council and
+  Assembly--Colonel Philip Warner--Expedition against the Caribs
+  --Death of Indian Warner--Arrest and trial of Colonel P. Warner
+  --Acquittal--Dampier's account of this affair--Captain
+  Southey's History of the Indian Warner
+
+                           CHAPTER V.
+
+  Governor Col. R. Williams--Biographical remarks--Towns of trade
+  appointed--Antigua divided into parishes--Sir Nathaniel Johnson
+  appointed captain-general and governor-in-chief--Colonel
+  Codrington--Remarks upon this family--Invasion of Antigua by a
+  French privateer--Attack upon Guadeloupe by the English--
+  Expedition to St. Christopher's--Gallant conduct of Colonel
+  Williams and Colonel Willoughby Byam--Sir Francis Wheeler's
+  expedition--Wilmot and Lillingston's expedition--Death of the
+  captain-general, General Codrington--Colonel John Yeamans,
+  lieutenant-governor--Arrival of Admiral Benbow
+
+                          CHAPTER VI.
+
+  Governor Colonel Christopher Codrington--Establishment of the
+  first market--Accession of Queen Anne--Arrival of Admiral
+  Benbow--Attack upon the island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction
+  with the Antiguan troops--Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam--
+  Arrival of Captain Hovenden Walker--Second attack upon
+  Guadaloupe--Colonel Codrington quits the government--His death
+  --Sir William Mathew--Hon. John Johnson
+
+                          CHAPTER VII.
+
+  Governor Colonel Daniel Parke--His birth-place and parentage--
+  His actions at the battle of Holchet and Blenheim--His arrival
+  at Antigua--Dissensions with the Antiguans--Complaints against
+  him sent to England--Results of the applications at the court
+  of Queen Anne--Tyrannical behaviour of Colonel Parke--Events of
+  the 7th December, 1710--Death of Colonel Parke
+
+                         CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  Governor Walter Hamilton--Walter Douglas's Disturbances--
+  Complaints against him sent to England--Queen Anne recalls him,
+  and reappoints Walter Hamilton--Lord Viscount Lowther--John
+  Hart--Lord Londonderry--Lord Forbes--Colonel William Crosbie
+
+                          CHAPTER IX.
+
+  Governor William Mathew--Insurrection of the Negroes--A Legend
+  of the Ravine--Punishment of the Conspirators
+
+                           CHAPTER X.
+
+  Governor William Mathew--Sir George Thomas, Bart.--James
+  Verchild--Honourable William Woodley--Sir Ralph Payne--Hon.
+  Craister Greathead--General Burt--The circumstances of his
+  death--Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart.
+
+                          CHAPTER XI.
+
+  Governors: William Woodley--John Stanley--Major-General Charles
+  Leigh--Archibald Esdail--John S. Thomas--Robert Thomson
+
+                          CHAPTER XII.
+
+  Governors: The Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington--William
+  Woodley--James Tyson--John Julius--Hugh Elliot--Sir James Leith
+  --Henry Rawlins--S. Rawlins--Major-General Ramsay
+
+                         CHAPTER XIII.
+
+  Governors: Sir Benjamin D'Urban--Sir Patrick Ross--Sir Evan
+  Murray McGregor--Mr. Light--Sir W. G. MacBean Colebrooke--Major
+  McPhail--Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy
+
+                          CHAPTER XIV.
+
+  My first voyage to Antigua--Visit upon deck--The booby's
+  welcome--Nearer approach--Harbour of St. John's--The Black
+  Pilot--North Sandy Island--Wreck of the mail-boat--Dangerous
+  navigation--Long Island--South Sandy Island--Panoramic views
+  from the vessel's deck--Light winds--Disappointment made
+  pleasing--Anchorage for the night
+
+                          CHAPTER XV.
+
+  The extent of Antigua--Opinion of some planters--Want of
+  agricultural labourers--Emigration not always profitable to the
+  negroes--"Seizar's" letter upon the subject--Return of
+  emigrants--Soil of Antigua--Geological matters--Petrifactions--
+  Climate of Antigua--"Yellow fever"--Beautiful evenings--the
+  appearance of the heavens--Evening visitants
+
+                          CHAPTER XVI.
+
+  Scenery of Antigua--Pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring"--The
+  Goddess Mnemosyne--Fig-Tree Hill--The "Bower of Bliss"--"Old
+  Road"--The Strand--The cross sexton--The parochial school--Old
+  Road Church--Tomb of Col. Williams--Moravian settlement--Salt
+  ponds--Copses--"Crab Hill"--Sandy Valley--The Valley Church--
+  The rising moon--Arrival in town--Night, and night dreams
+
+                         CHAPTER XVII.
+
+  The seasons at Antigua--Heavy rains--Long droughts--The
+  water-merchant--A fortunate shower--Drought in 1837--Desolate
+  appearance of the country--Famishing cattle--Definition of
+  "_fine rains_"--Anecdote--Heavy shower--Joy--Earthquakes--1835
+  --Meteors--Dressing for the ball--The alarm--The ball-room--
+  Hurricanes--Devastations
+
+                         CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+  Description of the town of St. John's, the capital of Antigua--
+  Situation--Arrangement of the streets--Hucksters--Houses--
+  Springs--Small shops--Stores of the retail dealers--Grog-shops
+  --Merchants' stores and lumber yards--Definition of lumber--
+  Auction sales--Scotch Row and Scotchmen--Incongruous display of
+  goods--Fire in 1797--Ruins--Fire in 1841--Its devastations
+
+                          CHAPTER XIX.
+
+  Description of the church of St John's--Period of its erection
+  --Present site--Panoramic views--Form of structure--Length and
+  breadth--Interior--Decorations--Monuments--Organ--Tower--Bells
+  --Clock--Churchyard--Tombs and sepulchral inscriptions--An
+  acrostic--"Adam and Eve!"
+
+                          CHAPTER XX.
+
+  Court-house--Bazaar--Arsenal--Police-office--Government-house--
+  Barracks--House of correction--Gaol--Methodist chapel--
+  Methodism, its rise and progress in Antigua--Moravian chapel--
+  Rise and progress of the Society of United Brethren--Scotch
+  kirk
+
+                          CHAPTER XXI.
+
+  Morning--Institutions--Daily Meal Society--Its rise and
+  progress--Lazaretto--Destitute Females' Friend Society--Its
+  origin and purpose--Friendly Societies--Bible Society--
+  Missionary associations--Temperance Society--Juvenile
+  Association--Ladies' Clothing Society &c.--Banks--Library
+  Society
+
+                         CHAPTER XXII.
+
+  Early rising and "Jamie Thomson"--Journey to English Harbour--
+  Windmills and Don Quixote--Groups of negroes and their
+  equipages--All Saints' chapel of ease--The "Hamlet"--Village of
+  Liberta--Grace Hill--Patterson's and Prince William--English
+  Harbour market--Streets and dwellings--Commissariat's store and
+  government tank--Dockyard--The superintendent--Stores and
+  storehouses--Engineer's workshop--Blacksmith's shop and blowing
+  machine--Limes and roses--Recollections of England--Lieutenant
+  Peterson and Lord Camelford--His lordship's pranks--The
+  ordnance--Clarence House and Dows Hill--The Ridge and "Shirley
+  heights"--Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley--Bats Cave--The
+  Savannah and its tombs--Indian Creek--Return to town
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+  Zulmiera, the Half-Carib girl, a Legend of the Savannah
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+  Continuation of the Legend
+
+                          CHAPTER XXV.
+
+  Conclusion of the Legend
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+  Towns: Falmouth--Church and churchyard--Mangroves and acacias--
+  Black's Point--Bridgetown--Willoughby Bay--Its site and
+  decoration--The superintendent of the Wesleyan schools--
+  School-room--Methodist chapel--The Memoras--St Philip's church
+  --Beautiful views--Parham--Its derivation and site--St Peter's
+  church--Churchyard--The new church--Methodist chapel and
+  school-room
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+  Forts and fortifications--Temporary ones--The present forts--
+  Fort James--Its situation and approach--Rat Island Battery, its
+  appellation, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff--Goat Hill--Steep
+  ascent--Schools in St. John's
+
+                        CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+  Remarks upon the aboriginal Americans--Suppositions of various
+  authors--Caribs--Arrowawks--Ferocity of the Carib--Complexion--
+  Dress--Ornaments--Dreadful revenge--Wars-Chiefs--Severities
+  practised--Feasts--Remarks upon paganism--Anthropophagi--A
+  traveller's tale--The Carib's opinion of death--Religious
+  tenets--Altars--The burning Carib
+
+                            ERRATA.
+
+[Transcriber's Note: these errata have been incorporated.]
+
+Page 4, line 8 from top, _for_ "D'Escambue," _read_ "D'Esnambuc."
+
+-- 20, line 7 from bottom, _for_ "Parhan," _read_ "Parham."
+
+-- 89, line 3 from top, _for_ "Mathews," _read_ "Mathew."
+
+-- 249, line 13 from top, _for_ "Hernhult," _read_ "Herrnhutt."
+
+-- 266, line 3 from bottom, _for_ "Sheltic," _read_ "Sheltie."
+
+
+
+
+                          SUBSCRIBERS.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Sir Charles A. Fitz Roy, Governor-in-Chief of the
+    Leeward Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Major McPhail, Lieutenant-Governor of Dominica  . . . . . .  4
+  The Lord Bishop of Antigua  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+
+
+
+
+                       Members of Council
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Hon. Mead H. Daniel, President  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Rowland E. Williams  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Hon. William Byam, (Cedar Hill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Hon. Bertie E. Jarvis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Hon. G. W. Ottley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. R. W. Nanton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Owen Pell  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. George S. Martin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Paul Horsford  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+
+
+
+             Members of the House of Assembly, &c.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Hon. Thomas Sanderson, Speaker  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. William Lee  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. Thomas F. Nibbs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. John Athill  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  James Scotland, Jun.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. John Gray  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Francis Byam Ottley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Furgusson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  William Thibou  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  R. B. Eldredge  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Osborn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James W. Sheriff  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Samuel Auchinleck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jos. L. Bindon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. H. Allan, (Whitehaven) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  George Athill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Athill  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Gedney C. Bispham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Godschall Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  William Gordon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Horace Turner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William H. Thompson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Boyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. E. Sanderson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Murray  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Hosier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. H. Grant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  N. J. Hill  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. H. More  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Erskine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William S. Odlum  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Humphreys  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward Wesston  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Thibou  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  R. K. Nanton  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Madgwick  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Paul Horsford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Prizgar  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Armstrong  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. Burke Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James E. Geddes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George Ewart  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John McDonald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Gordon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  George Cranstoun  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  3
+  J. Barrett  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. T. Gore  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  H. Perrott, 59th Regiment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Gilbert Auchinleck  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  A. Duncan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William L. Nibbs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  M. Capdestaing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James F. Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Samuel L. Bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  T. H. Morrison  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Haining  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Simpson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Barry Nibbs  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  N. Humphreyes, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Robertson, Sen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Kelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Benjamin Scotland  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Joseph Black  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George Black  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William C. Brookes  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  A. McDowal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  R. W. Baxter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John F. Smyth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Ed. F. Grant  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. H. G. Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Scotland, Jun.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Patrick Cadell  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  John Gow  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Richard Higginbotham  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas C. Walter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John W. Scotland  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Richard Wilson, (Mico School) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. J. Anderson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Thomas Gordon, (English Harbour)  . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Boison  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Francis Critchton, (Rose's Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles McGuire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jeremiah R. Nibbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John B. Lowry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert T. Pooler  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Freeland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Captain Kennedy, Brig, "British Queen." . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. C. Milward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry T. Pigot, (Villa Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. W. More  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jos. Lavicount  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Simpson, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. J. B. Wilkinson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Walker, P. M. G.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Carmault  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  P. P. Walter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  David Armour  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Charles Robertson, Jun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas H. Hyndman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Boyd  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Ashford  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas W. Scholar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Grant, (Freeman's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Bradfoot Taber  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Doyle  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Thomas Nicholson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward Liscombe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James C. Wesston, M.D.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Kennedy  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Lindsay, A. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. Cranstoun  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Oswald Wood, M.D. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  G. J. Watkins, (Lavington's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. P. Maynard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Captain W. C. Johnson, Brig "Ludlow"  . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. Malone, (English Harbour)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  D. Scarville  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. P. Guilmett  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. Isaacs, (English Harbour)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. Hart, Superintendent of Naval Yard . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  ------ Nugent, 59th Regiment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  ------ Peebles, ditto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. James Curtin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Clarke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Alonzo Hurst  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Trew, Collector H. M. C.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  T. A. Benjamin, D. O. S. K. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  George S. Bladen  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Ledger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. G. Dumeresque, H. M. C.  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  F. H. Price, H. M. C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hinton Simpson  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. J. Ronan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jos. Sherrington  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  John Winter, Chief of Police  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  G. B. Cadelle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  W. A. Ross Willock  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. R. Haynes, (Folly Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Goodwin, (Mount Lucy Estate)  . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Thomas Bryan, (Elliot's Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jno. M. Donovan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Frederick Kysh  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Richard Abbot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Howell  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  R. S. White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  J. Fulton Author  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Henry French  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Captain Fred. Simpson, "Miranda" (ship) . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Stewart, (Hermitage Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Samuel M. Richard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Lieutenant Bulman, H. M. S. "Fair Rosamond" . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. F. Fox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Storrock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Connor, (English Harbour) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Jno. Rodney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Gregory  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Elliot  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Brodie G. McNish  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Andrew Brown  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mat. Cockburn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. T. C. Walter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Dr. Jno. Furlong  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  James W. Boyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Wm. Fairclough  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+
+
+
+                       St. Christopher's.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Horatio Adlum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Joseph McLachlane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Private Subscription Rooms  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. Hay  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  William Padmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Messrs. Dinzey and Peterson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. McMahon  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. William Frazer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Henry Woodcock  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  C. A. Tapshire  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  N. J. Lynch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Robert Nimmo  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. R. Claxton, Attorney-General . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. R. B. Cleghorn, President of Nevis . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  H. Harding, (Nevis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  James Thensteat, (Dominica) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Fortunatus Larrica, (Madeira) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  T. L. Foster  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  F. Burk, (Monserrat)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+
+
+
+                            England.
+
+
+                                                          COPIES
+  Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager . . . . . . .
+  Sir T. Fowel Buxton, Bart., Northrepps, Norfolk . . . . . .  4
+  Lord James O'Bryen, 15, North Crescent, Bath  . . . . . .
+  Sir George Thomas, Weymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+  Captain G. B. Mathew, Carlton Club  . . . . . . . . . . . .  4
+  Lieutenant Parsons, R.N., Southampton . . . . . . . . . . .  2
+  Rev. William Palmer, Rector, Eynesbury, Hunts . . . . . . .  1
+  Joseph Liggins, Esq., Mincing-lane, London  . . . . . . . .  2
+  Rev. Daniel F. Warner, Rector, Hoo, Rochester . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Byam, Byam House, Brighton . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward S. Byam, Esq., Cheltenham  . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Hon. and Rev. Richard Burgh Byam, Vicar of
+    Kew and Petersham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. Engleharte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Mrs. John Walter, Bridge-street, Blackfriars  . . . . . . .  1
+  L. C. Lecesne, Esq., Fenchurch-buildings  . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Lewis F. Bellot, Esq., Barge-yard Chambers, Bucklersbury  .  1
+  James McKie, Esq., Bucklersbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Edward Byam Wyke, Esq., Ealing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+  Rev. Sam. Ashton Warner, Rector of St. George's, Antigua  .  1
+  Shirley Warner, Esq., Stipendiary Magistrate, Montserrat  .  1
+  John Dawson, Esq., Whitehaven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
+
+                   ANTIGUA AND THE ANTIGUANS,
+                              ETC.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER I.
+
+
+
+  General Description of the Island--Appearance--Soil--
+  Productions--Climate--Early history--Discovery by Columbus--
+  Attempted settlement by Spaniards--Grant to Earl of Carlisle--
+  Settlement by d'Esnambuc--Williams--Governor Warner--Account of
+  Sir Thomas Warner, founder of the family.
+
+The Island of Antigua, one of the great Antilles, is situated in
+the Caribbean Sea, about twenty-five miles to the north-east of
+Montserrat, and forty miles north of Guadaloupe, in latitude
+seventeen degrees north, and longitude sixty-two degrees, or
+thereabouts, the measurement in these respects not being more
+exact than those of its length and breadth, which are variously
+stated at 21, 20, and 18 miles for its length, and 21, 20, and
+17, for its breadth. The lower estimate is, however, most
+probably correct. Its circumference, again, is variously stated
+at from 50 to 80 miles, and its total area from 59,838 acres, to
+108 square miles, or nearly 70,000 acres. The population in 1837,
+consisted of 2000 whites and coloured people, and 33,000 blacks.
+All the slaves in the island were enfranchised in 1834.
+
+The island is of an oval shape. On the first approach the coast
+appears rough and barren, but as the voyager draws nearer, hills
+and valleys open on his view, and the shore puts on an appearance
+of luxuriant vegetation. The country possesses little of a
+mountainous character, the highest elevation reaching only to the
+height of 1210 feet above the level of the sea. The soil varies
+according to the situation; that of the valleys and low lands
+consisting of a rich, black mould, on a substratum of clay; and
+unless in seasons of excessive drought, to which this island is
+peculiarly subject, remarkably productive. The soil of the high
+lands, on the other hand, is a stiff, reddish clay, on a
+substratum of marl, and is much less productive, abounding, as it
+does, with a species of grass extremely difficult to extirpate;
+and the increase of which has even caused some lands, formerly
+cultivated, to be abandoned. With the exception of such tracts,
+and of a small part totally unimprovable, the whole island may be
+said to be under cultivation. The staple production is sugar; a
+little cotton is cultivated; but all other articles of commerce,
+with the exception of sugar, are neglected. The quantities of
+ground provisions, as yams, eddoes, sweet potatoes, &c., grown in
+favourable seasons, is very considerable.
+
+The most remarkable circumstance connected with Antigua is the
+want of fresh-water springs, there being but two or three of
+them, wholly inadequate to the wants of the population. This want
+is supplied by tanks, in which the rain water is preserved, and
+found to be particularly wholesome and agreeable, being light and
+pleasing to the palate.
+
+The climate is remarkable for want of moisture, although the
+average fall of rain is forty-five inches. It is considered one
+of the most healthy in the West Indies.
+
+The history of Antigua may be said to commence with its discovery
+by Columbus, for although it was at that period, and
+subsequently, frequented by the Caribs, they appear not to have
+made it a place of permanent residence; the want of water, which
+caused European settlers so long to neglect the island, deterring
+them also from establishing themselves upon it. For an account of
+the Caribs, and of their probable origin, the reader is referred
+to the chapters devoted to that interesting subject; and we shall
+now proceed to the history of the settlement of the island and of
+its internal administration down to the present time, reserving
+for future chapters those sketches of the island, and its
+inhabitants, which are the result of personal experience.
+
+It was not until his second voyage, in the year 1493, that
+Columbus discovered Antigua. He landed with a party, but finding,
+on examination, that it was peopled only by a few Caribs, who
+possessed nothing that was serviceable to the Spaniards, and who
+were, probably, only casual visitants, and that the island was
+destitute of fresh water, he contented himself with giving it a
+name, Antigua, from the church of St. Mary of Antigua, at
+Seville, and abandoned it. There is a tradition that the name
+given to the island by the natives was "Xaymaca," signifying the
+"land of springs;" but whether this "lucus a non lucendo" was a
+specimen of Caribbean wit, or, more probably, arose from a
+mistake on the part of the European visitants, is uncertain.
+
+Antigua remained neglected by all the various European
+adventurers, who hastened in crowds to other more favoured spots,
+until the year 1520, when a small party of Spaniards, under the
+Licentiate Don Antonio Serrano, who had received letters-patent
+from the King of Spain to colonize Antigua, Montserrat, Barbadu,
+Deseada, Dominica, and Martinique, landed, and driving off the
+few Caribs they found there, attempted to establish themselves;
+but after a short stay they abandoned it, and the island remained
+without a European claimant until the year 1627, when the Earl of
+Carlisle obtained a grant of Barbados, Antigua, and the rest of
+the Leeward Islands, from Charles I. This grant was opposed by
+the Earl of Marlborough, on the plea of a prior grant from James
+I., which was, however, eventually compromised, and the Earl of
+Carlisle was recognised as the sole proprietor. He, however,
+contented himself with settling Barbados; and although Antigua
+was colonized in his lifetime, yet neither he nor his son, who
+died without issue in 1660, and in whom the family honours became
+extinct, appear to have ever interested themselves in Antigua, or
+to have exercised any rights of ownership or property. In fact,
+the first permanent occupation of the island appears to have been
+a mere private speculation, and to have excited little notice or
+inquiry, since it is still a question who was the first actual
+settler.
+
+In the year 1629, Mons. d'Esnambuc, the captain of a French
+privateer, made an attempt at a settlement, but the want of water
+drove him away after a very short stay; so short, indeed, that
+although a party of English settlers seem to have been upon the
+island, he did not remain long enough to discover them. The
+assertion, however, that English colonists were then on the
+island, rests solely on a tradition that William Herbert, Earl of
+Pembroke, who interested himself greatly in the colonization of
+the West Indies, sent out his friend and countryman, Mr.
+Williams, (the father of Colonel Rowland Williams, renowned in
+Antiguan story, as having been the first white child born on the
+island,) to attempt a settlement in Antigua. As Lord Pembroke
+died in April 1630, it does not appear probable that Mr.
+Williams' settlement was later than 1629. If he were not the
+first, there is no doubt he was one of the first settlers, and an
+estate at Old Road, still in possession of his descendant, is
+pointed out as the spot he made choice of for his residence,
+which, as it is in the neighbourhood of the best spring in the
+island, now known as "Tom Moore's Spring," is extremely likely to
+have been the case. A fact that strengthens the probability of
+Mr. Williams being the first settler is, that Mr. Warner, who
+unquestionably conducted a party to Antigua from St. Kitts, in
+1632, fixed his residence near the same spot, which it is natural
+he should do, for the sake of companionship, but built a cistern,
+whose ruins are still to be seen in the savannah, which he need
+not have done, had not the scanty spring been already
+appropriated.
+
+In the year 1632, General Sir Thomas Warner, at that time, by the
+sanction of the Earl of Carlisle, the legal proprietor, and,
+under warrant from the king, Governor of St. Christopher, Nevis,
+Barbados, and Montserrat, sent his son Edward, a captain in the
+army, with a sufficient party, to colonize Antigua, which design
+he carried into effect, and during the remainder of his life
+continued to act as governor, although we have discovered no
+evidence of his having ever possessed, either as principal or
+deputy, any warrant for assuming the title, or executing the
+functions of governor, except so far as his father, as agent for
+the Earl of Carlisle, the lord proprietor of the island, might be
+considered as vested with authority; for in his commission from
+the crown, no mention is made of Antigua.
+
+The name of Warner being thus distinguished in the annals of
+Antigua, we may be excused for making a digression upon the
+history of its founder, more especially as it affords a good
+illustration of the process of colonization in our West Indian
+and American possessions.
+
+General Sir Thomas Warner was a scion of an ancient and
+distinguished English family; but from being a younger son, he
+was obliged to use personal efforts, in order to effect an
+honourable passage through life. Having entered into the army at
+an early age, and attained the rank of captain, he accompanied
+Roger North, brother of Lord North, in his expedition to Guiana,
+a country which was then looked upon as a perfect _Eldorado_.
+Here he became acquainted with a Captain Painton, a great
+navigator of those times, and one who had well studied the then
+all-engrossing subject of colonization.
+
+This gentleman suggested to Captain Warner how much more facility
+would attend a settlement in one of the smaller islands, than in
+a country so extensive as Guiana; and from his own personal
+experience, he thought St. Christopher's (at that time unoccupied
+by any European power) would be an island particularly adapted
+for the exercise of a daring spirit, in the way of planting a
+settlement.
+
+These suggestions of his friend appear to have made due
+impression upon the mind of Mr. Warner; for in 1620, after the
+death of Captain Painton, he resolved to return to England, and
+endeavour to procure the aid of some kindred spirit, in order to
+put his designs into execution. Having so far succeeded in his
+plans as to procure all necessary arrangements for establishing a
+colony, Mr. Warner again left England, accompanied by his wife
+and son, Edward, (who was a captain in the army at the early age
+of thirteen, and who was afterwards appointed first governor of
+Antigua,) and a small party of followers,[1] and embarked on
+board a vessel bound for Virginia, whence himself and party
+proceeded to St. Christopher's, where they arrived 28th January,
+1623. Mr. Warner, as head of the settlers, commenced immediately
+the task of cultivation, in which he so far progressed as to
+raise a crop of tobacco, which was unfortunately destroyed in the
+severe hurricane of the 19th of the following September.
+
+During this period, the movements of the English were diligently
+observed by the Caribs, who, instigated by three Frenchmen,
+(supposed to have been cast upon the island by a former storm,)
+at length made an outbreak upon the English, and retarded in some
+measure their work of cultivation.
+
+By the end of the following February, Mr. Warner had another crop
+of tobacco ready for exportation; and the ship Hopewell
+(commanded by Captain Jefferson) arriving on the 4th March, 1624,
+from London, bringing fresh supplies for the infant colony, a few
+emigrants, and goods with which to trade with the Caribs, Mr.
+Warner resolved to return in her to England, in order to obtain
+more powerful assistance. He accordingly embarked himself and his
+first-gathered crop on board the "Hopewell," and once more sought
+the shores of England, to receive the congratulations of his
+friends, and search for a patron who would enable him to carry
+out further his plans of colonization.
+
+Between that period and 1625, Mr. Warner was employed in voyaging
+backwards and forwards from St. Christopher's and England,
+leaving the cares of the government to his son, Edward Warner,
+(of whom Du Tertre speaks very handsomely,) until, having gained
+a friend and patron in the Earl of Carlisle, he was introduced at
+the court of the then reigning sovereign, Charles I. This monarch
+was so pleased with Mr. Warner's indefatigable and patriotic
+spirit, that he was graciously pleased to grant him a commission,
+(signed 13th Sept. 1625,) constituting him governor over the
+"foure islands of St. Christopher's, Nevis, Barbados, and
+Mountserrate,"[2] and on the 21st September, 1629, knighted him
+at Hampton Court Palace.[3]
+
+Some of Sir Thomas Warner's descendants have filled the highest
+situations in Antigua, administering the government at times. Nor
+is the family extinct, for many there are who can trace their
+descent in a direct line from this great founder of four
+flourishing colonies. One of these was in 1838 "gathered to his
+fathers;" he was esteemed as an able legislator, and fulfilled
+his duties as president of the council, brigadier-general of the
+militia, and occasionally lieutenant-governor, with integrity. As
+this family ranks among the first aristocrats of the island, a
+more particular account of their lineal descent may not be deemed
+superfluous, and will be found in the Appendix, No. 2.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[1] The names of these adventurous few were as follows:--William
+Tasted, John Rhodes, Robert Bims, Mr. Benifield, Sergeant Jones,
+Mr. Ware, William Ryle, Rowland Grasscocke, Mr. Bond, Mr.
+Langley, Mr. Weaver, Sergeant Aplon, one sailor, and a cook.
+
+[2] Vide copy of the first commission granted, No. 1, Appendix.
+
+[3] Sir Thomas Warner died at St Christopher's in 1648. His tomb
+is still to be met with in the parish church for the township of
+Old Road, (a place which derives its name from the involuntary
+exclamation of Columbus upon his second visit to St.
+Christopher's, "Ah! we are at the _old road_ again,") the
+inscription upon which is as follows:--
+
+             An Epitaph vpon Th-------------------
+                Noble & Mvch Lamented Genrl Sir
+                   Tho. Warner, Kt Lievtenant
+                     General of ye Carribee
+                     Ielands & Goverr of ye
+                    Ieland of St Christopher
+                       Who Departed This
+                        Life the 10th of
+                          March 1648.
+
+    First Read then weepe when thou art hereby taught,
+    That Warner lyes interr'd here, one that bought,
+    With losse of Noble bloud Illustrious Name,
+    Of A Comander Greate in Acts of Fame.
+    Trayn'd from his youth in Armes, his courage bold,
+    Attempted braue Exploites, and vncontrold
+    By fortunes fiercest Frownes, hee still gaue forth
+    Large Narratiues of Military worth.
+    ----ritten with his sword's poynt, but what is man
+    -------the midst of his glory, and who can
+    ----------this Life A moment, since that hee
+    -------------by Sea and Land, so longe kept free
+    -----------al, Mortal Strokes at length did yeeld
+    ------------ace) to conquering Death the field,
+    fini Coronat.
+
+The black lines shew where the marble is broken, or the letters
+from some other cause are quite obliterated.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER II.
+
+
+
+  History of the island continued--Sir Henry Hunks--Descent of
+  the Caribs--Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook--Arrival of the Ship
+  Nonsuch--Sir Thomas Modiford--Earl of Warwick, Captain-General
+  --Captain Edward Warner--Colonel Rich--Colonel Lake--Mr.
+  Everard--Sir George Ayscue--Colonel Christopher Reynall--
+  Invasion by the Caribs--Dissensions among the inhabitants--Copy
+  of Colonel Reynall's letter to Cromwell--Attack upon St.
+  Domingo and Jamaica--Major-General Poyntz--Grant of Antigua to
+  Lord F. Willoughby.
+
+We will now return to the history of Antigua, which we shall
+hereafter pursue, as closely as possible, in chronological order.
+
+In 1639, Sir Henry Hunks paid Antigua a visit. This gentleman
+(who was nephew to Lord Conway, Secretary of State) was the first
+governor of Barbados with a regular commission; but upon his
+arrival at that colony, Henry Hawley, the then acting
+commander-in-chief, would not resign the government, and raised
+so formidable a party, that Sir Henry Hunks quietly retired to
+Antigua, where he remained from June to December; at which latter
+period, he was installed in his government, according to the
+instructions which he received from England.
+
+In 1640, the English settlers were disturbed in their possessions
+at Antigua by the Caribs, who made a descent upon the island,
+pillaging it, and destroying everything that fell in their way.
+After many lives being lost on both sides, the English were
+enabled to repel their invaders; who, however, succeeded in
+carrying away the governor's wife and her two children. It is
+maintained by some authors, that the after fate of this
+unfortunate woman was not known; but that everything the worst
+might be imagined from the character of the Caribs, goaded on as
+they were by the loss of their country.
+
+There is, however, a tradition still extant in Antigua, which
+most probably relates to this catastrophe. In the first years of
+this island becoming an English colony, it was, of course, but
+thinly peopled by Europeans, and consequently there was but
+little force to repel any invasion. Parties of Caribs from the
+different islands, particularly Dominica, used frequently to land
+upon it, and distress the inhabitants. In these invasions, no
+mercy was shewn, no quarter given, to the unhappy people who fell
+in their power, and after a combat, numerous were the bodies left
+upon the field of battle. Armed with their massive clubs and
+sharp spears, at the end of which was inserted a fish-bone,
+dipped in the poisonous juice of the lianas or the manchineel,
+the Caribs were no mean foes. No sooner had they set fire to a
+cluster of houses, or destroyed a field of tobacco, the chief
+production of the island in those days, than they immediately
+flew to their canoes, which were so fast in sailing, that before
+the alarm had subsided in one part, they were burning and
+plundering in another.[4] At that period, the house where the
+governor resided was situated near Falmouth Bay; and in the
+village itself the principal of the English settlers lived.
+Government House, from its situation, was particularly open to
+the attacks of the Caribs; and here the first part of the scene
+took place, which gave rise to
+
+
+
+
+               The Legend of Ding-a-ding Nook.[5]
+
+
+
+It was night. The wind, which had been blowing rather hard during
+the day, as evening drew in, gradually sank, until about
+midnight, the time when the legend opens, it was a dead calm.
+Nothing was to be heard but the dull moaning of the waves, as
+they broke heavily upon the beach, or, now and then, the distant
+bark of a dog from the houses of the settlers, which, with the
+natural fidelity of that animal, had followed his master to these
+sunny islands, when he came in search of that fortune which his
+native land denied him.
+
+The family of the governor consisted of himself, his young and
+beautiful wife, two lovely children, and his numerous domestics.
+At an early period of this evening, his lady, with the warm
+solicitude of a mother's love, had seen her infants safely
+deposited in their cot; and with a mother's prayer for their
+happiness upon her lips, watched beside them until the deepening
+rose upon their cheeks, and their measured breathings, shewed
+that they slept the quiet sleep of childhood.
+
+Hours rolled on, and all beneath that roof sought their
+resting-place--all but the governor's wife were quickly in the
+arms of sleep. As if some "spirit of the night" had whispered a
+hint of the sufferings she was fated to endure, an irresistible
+feeling of melancholy hung over her. Sleep she could not; and to
+allay the fever of her brow, she arose from her couch, and
+throwing her robe around her, she opened the lattice. The scene
+she looked upon was wild but beautiful. Dark masses of clouds
+still hung about the heavens, and strove to hide the beams of the
+rising moon; but she, "fair Cynthia," kept on her way in peerless
+majesty, and shed on every object her mellowed light. The simple
+houses of the English were visible amid the trees; above which
+the stately cocoa-nut reared its head, its long pendant branches
+perfectly motionless. On one side, the bay of Falmouth lay
+stretched before the eye of the gazer, every snow-crested wave of
+which could be counted; and on the other were the dark mountains,
+except in the opening of the bay, where nothing was to be seen
+but an extent of waters.
+
+Long did that beautiful lady gaze upon this scene: many thoughts
+did its loveliness conjure up--thoughts of her native land, its
+verdant hills and spangled dells, and all its towering cities.
+Present objects were fast fading away, when a splash of the
+waters was heard, and as her eye sought the ocean, a
+swift-gliding canoe came in sight. At this moment, the moon,
+which had been lately obscured, shone out with redoubled
+brightness, and she could plainly discover that the canoe
+contained about twenty armed men, and was quickly followed by
+another, with even more than that number. Who could these
+strangers be? was the first thought; and what their business at
+such an hour? Were they Caribs? And one more glance at their wild
+forms, and the dreadful truth rushed across her mind, that they
+were coming to storm the house. Soon she awoke her husband, and
+told him her fears; the domestics were aroused and armed, and the
+house put into a posture of defence.
+
+The canoes were now no longer to be seen; and even the lady was
+inclined to ask, Could it be one of those wild vagaries of the
+imagination? when suddenly the war-cry was heard, and, with
+dreadful imprecations, a party of Caribs bounded into sight.
+Terrible was the fight that succeeded, and many a corse strewed
+the ground. At length the Caribs were obliged to retreat; but,
+alas! they carried with them all that was dear to the governor--
+his wife and children. The Caribs, hotly pursued, made for the
+place where they had directed their canoes to wait, under the
+charge of some of their friends, dragging the unhappy lady and
+her two babies with them. Frightened by the wild looks of the
+Indians, and suddenly awakened from its slumbers, one of the
+little innocents commenced crying bitterly, which its distressed
+mother, at the command of her conquerors, vainly endeavoured to
+still. After walking, or rather running, for some distance, they
+had almost reached the sea-side, when one of the Caribs, more
+ferocious than the rest, and thinking that the cries of the child
+would perhaps lead their pursuers to the spot, caught the baby by
+the feet, and swinging it around his head, at one blow dashed out
+its brains upon a neighbouring rock.[6] This deed committed in
+sight of its parent, the lady and her remaining child were rudely
+hurried on, until, the beach gained, they were thrown into one of
+the canoes; and the whole party embarking, they pushed out into
+the ocean.
+
+The governor, finding they had escaped, proceeded on board an
+armed vessel, and immediately sailed in pursuit of the enemy. The
+morning that succeeded that disastrous night was one of West
+Indian beauty; not a vapour was abroad; the sky was one deep,
+lovely blue, and the sea looked like fluid light. Seated upon the
+high poop, anxiously did the governor scan the waters in hopes of
+seeing the canoes; but nothing met his eye--not even a speck
+appeared to raise his hopes. Hour after hour passed away, but no
+sight of the fugitives; night drew on, and the breeze died away;
+the sails flapping heavily against the mast bespoke another calm.
+How tedious seemed those hours of darkness--how fervently was the
+morning wished for; but just before dawn the wind sprung up, and
+soon after the mountains of Dominica appeared in sight. Slowly
+but surely the vessel glided on, every eye watching for some
+trace of the lost ones, when, in the opening of a little bay, two
+empty canoes were discovered. Could these be the same they were
+in quest of? was the anxious query; and if so, where could their
+owners be? Orders were given to let go the anchor, and prepare
+the boats; and in a short time the governor and his party, all
+well armed, were landed upon the beach.
+
+A beaten path led up to the mountains, and it was determined to
+pursue it in hopes of it leading to some dwelling, where they
+might obtain information. As it proceeded, however, it became
+more and more intricate, guava bushes, aloes, and the prickly
+pear, grew thickly together, while different species of parasites
+conspired to render the path more impervious. In some places it
+was almost obstructed by these various bushes, interspersed with
+larger trees, so that the companions of the governor were for
+returning, supposing no one could have passed that way lately.
+But he was determined to proceed a little further; and had just
+stretched out his hand to sever with his sword the overhanging
+boughs of an acacia, when suddenly he made a start, his heart
+beat almost to bursting, and, unable to speak, he pointed to his
+amazed followers a portion of white taffeta hanging to one of its
+sharp thorns. This, he felt assured, must have been torn from the
+robe of his wife; and, consequently, that was the road her
+conquerors must have carried her. Upon further search among the
+rank and tangled grass, in hopes of discovering prints of
+footsteps, marks of blood were observed. These led to further
+inquiries. Could they have murdered her there? But no; had such
+been the case, greater quantities of blood would have marked the
+deed. Perhaps she might have been wounded, and placed in some
+concealment near. Again they proceeded, guided by the drops of
+blood, until, coming to an abrupt turn of the path, about a dozen
+Caribs' huts lay stretched before them, and their fierce inmates
+lolling around the open doors.
+
+In less than a minute all was confusion. Confident that this was
+the party who had stolen his wife, the governor rushed upon them
+furious with passion. Nothing could resist his power; Carib after
+Carib lay stretched by the prowess of his arm; and springing over
+his prostrate foes, the anxious husband entered the principal
+hut, which he had observed was carefully guarded throughout the
+fray. A well-known voice called his name, an infant's cry of joy
+saluted his ear, and, bursting open an inner door, his weeping
+wife was in his arms, and his darling child clinging around his
+knees. It took but little time to quit that spot, and retrace the
+mountain path. The drops of blood he had seen were occasioned by
+his wife's shoe coming off, and the rugged ascent cutting her
+tender feet, upon her journey to the Caribs' huts. The boat was
+quickly gained, and in a few minutes they reached the ship, and,
+unfurling the sails, they sought the shores of Antigua, where
+they arrived in safety.
+
+Hitherto all was well. Happy in again seeing her husband, and
+knowing herself and child were safe, that lady still took
+comfort, although mourning the untimely fate of her other
+darling. But this did not last long. Other thoughts arose in her
+husband's breast--thoughts too horrible to mention.
+
+   "Oh! what dreadful minutes tells he o'er,
+    Who dotes, still doubts; suspects, yet strongly loves."
+
+In vain his poor unhappy wife protested she was pure.
+
+   "Jealousy is a green-eyed monster,
+    That doth mock the food it feeds upon;"
+
+and by its whispers drove him, who was the affectionate friend
+and protector, to be the harsh and implacable tyrant. No longer
+enjoying the society of his wife, he determined to get rid of
+her; and for this purpose built a keep in Ding-a-Ding Nook, and,
+conveying his wife hither, left her to wear away her life in
+hopeless misery.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+This is the legend; and well might that Nook be selected for such
+a place of seclusion, for it is a valley completely shut in by
+the surrounding mountains, and open only to the sea. I have heard
+another version of this story, which says, the governor and his
+lady parted by mutual consent, and that it was her wish to have a
+house built in that spot. Surely, if this was the case, she must
+have had the taste of an anchorite.
+
+Between the period of Mrs. Warner's abduction and the year 1666,
+the Caribs carried away the wives and children of many of the
+respectable settlers. Among them, we find mentioned Mrs. Cardin
+and children, Mrs. Taylor and children, Mrs. Chrew and children,
+Mrs. Lynch and children, Mrs. Lee, wife of Captain Lee, and many
+other females. Mrs. Lee was detained prisoner for three years,
+after the Caribs had murdered her husband, and many other
+Englishmen, the truth of which is attested by the following
+extract from a letter written by J. Daniel, auditor-general to
+the expedition under Pen and Venables, to Oliver Cromwell,
+lord-protector of England, dated 3rd June, 1655:--"Mrs. Lee, wife
+of Captain Lee, was carried away by the Caribs, and kept prisoner
+three years at Dominica, her husband and many English
+slaughtered." This statement immediately dispels the hypothesis
+(which some writers have entertained) of Captain Lee being the
+erector of the keep at Ding-a-Ding Nook; and, consequently, fixes
+more firmly the truth of Mrs. Warner being the heroine of the
+preceding legend.
+
+To return once more to our chronological record. In 1647, the
+ship "Nonsuch," Captain Middleton, owner, arrived at Antigua,
+which gave the name to Nonsuch Harbour, having anchored in that
+port. This was one of three vessels which had been fitted out
+from England by Colonel, afterwards Sir Thomas, Modiford, in
+order to form a plantation in this island. During the passage,
+the "Achilles," the larger vessel of the expedition, of 300 tons
+burden, William Crowder, owner and master, parted company with
+the "Nonsuch," which proceeded to Antigua alone. The "Achilles,"
+after being out at sea for many weeks, put into Barbados in
+distress, being infected with a disease which caused great
+mortality among the men. During Colonel Modiford's stay at
+Barbados, it was represented to him how far more advantageous it
+would be to purchase an estate in that island, already planted,
+and from which immediate emolument might be derived, than to
+proceed to an infant colony, where he would have to undergo all
+the fatigues and privations incident upon establishing a
+plantation. Colonel Modiford, listening to this advice, purchased
+the half of an estate for 7000l., an immense sum at that day, and
+thus constituted himself a Barbados planter, instead of adhering
+to his first resolution, of becoming a settler of Antigua. Sir
+Thomas Modiford afterwards removed to the newly-gained English
+colony of Jamaica, of which island he was appointed governor in
+1663, and where he resigned his breath in 1679. The Earl of
+Warwick had been appointed captain-general of _all the West
+Indies_ in 1643, but he does not appear to have assumed the
+command; for, in 1648, after the demise of Sir Thomas Warner, we
+find Colonel Rich become governor of St. Christopher's, Colonel
+Lake[7] of Nevis, and Colonel Edward Warner of Antigua. How long
+this latter gentleman retained his situation is uncertain; but,
+about the year 1651-2, a Mr. Everard is mentioned as holding the
+government of the leeward West India islands. An official
+document, however, written in the year 1655, speaks of a
+gentleman of that name as governor of St. Kitt's only.
+
+Antigua, among most of the other colonies in this quarter of the
+globe, refusing to acknowledge the rights of the Protector, Sir
+George Ayscue was sent with a squadron to reduce them. This
+island soon yielded to the Commonwealth's banner, and Colonel
+Christopher Reynall was appointed governor, instead of the
+individual who had so daringly withstood the parliamentary power.
+
+In 1654, the Caribs again made a descent upon Antigua; but the
+English were enabled to repel their invaders, and effect such
+slaughter among them, that but few escaped to tell the tale. This
+victory appears to have intimidated the Indians; and for the next
+two or three years, the island had rest from their relentless
+invasions. About this period, Antigua was a prey to great
+dissensions between the governor and the governed. Complaints
+were forwarded by the inhabitants to Barbados, praying the
+governor of that island to use his influence in endeavouring to
+put a stop to their internal distractions. On the other hand, the
+Governor of Antigua, Colonel Christopher Reynall, wrote to the
+Lord Protector, imploring his Highness to take the island under
+his more particular command, and, by his authority, quell the
+disaffections which had so unfortunately crept in among them. The
+following letter from the Governor of Antigua, and the extract
+from one written by Daniel Searle, Esq., Governor of Barbados,
+are taken from "Thurloe's State Papers":--
+
+  Copy of a letter from Christopher Reynall, Governor of Antigua,
+     to the Lord Protector of England, Oliver Cromwell.
+
+"May it please your Highness,
+
+"Upon the reducement of these parts in that expedition of Sir
+George Ayscue's employ, I was by him and the other commissioners,
+then empowered and commissioned to be _governor_ and
+_commander-in-chief_ of this island of Antigua, in relation and
+obedience to the Commonwealth of England, which, to the best of
+my endeavours, I hope in my instrument, I have faithfully
+performed; in the progress of which my employ being, I have
+received by several advice, that it was and is thought meet, and
+so established by the Great Council and Estate of England, with
+your Highnesses consent and acceptation, that the government of
+our nation and dominions remain in yourself as Lord Protector; a
+thing most acceptable to me, who do most faithfully wish your
+Highness and the Commonwealth welfare and happiness; and, in
+manifestation thereof, have cheerfully acknowledged and submitted
+to all such mandates or expresses which hath hitherto come in the
+name of the Lord Protector. But in our private consultations,
+considering of _many spirits amongst us_, doubting their
+satisfactions have not attained the title of our ...... or
+......; according to our desires and intentions, lest an
+ill-affected party should presume to take an advantage thereby in
+pretending, as some have already given out, that there were no
+power of government, but all as libertine, until a new commission
+came from your Highness; which, by that means might endanger the
+place to a confusion and ruin: so render us incapable of that
+service we desire to perform to your Highness and the
+Commonwealth. The place of itself (if encouragement and small
+help were afforded) being of consequence, by reason of the
+fertility of the soil, and exceeding all others settled in these
+parts, in convenient and safe harbours--I, in relation to the
+promises and my loyalty to your Highness and the Commonwealth, do
+prostrate my humble desire at the feet of your Highness's care
+and justice, as so far to take up the people and place into your
+consideration, as to give such orders and directions as may put
+us not only in the condition of walking inoffensively, but also
+as we may be serviceable to your Highness and the Commonwealth,
+which is the hearty desire of
+
+            "Your most obedient subject and servant,
+
+                                  (Signed) "Christopher Reynall.
+
+  "From the Island of Antigua, in the parts of America,
+
+"Aug. 20th, 1654."
+
+The extract from Governor Searle's letter, dated from Barbados,
+Nov. 7th, 1655, and addressed to Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector,
+&c., is as follows:--
+
+"Some addresses have likewise been made unto me, by Mr. Jos. Lee,
+Mr. Benjamin Langham, and Richard Farley, inhabitants of Antego,
+in behalf of themselves and the people of that colony, concerning
+some distractions among them, and the present unsettled and
+desturbed condition of that colony. But finding I have no power
+to take cognizance of anything of that nature, without the bounds
+of this colony, without a special order from your Highness, I
+have transmitted their complaints, and the state of the matter in
+difference betwixt them and the governor going off, which your
+Highness will here receive."
+
+In 1665, Antigua joined with Barbados, St. Christopher's, and
+Nevis, in levying troops to join the intended expedition of
+Admiral Pen and General Venables, (of which accounts had been
+received from England,) in their projected attack upon St.
+Domingo--an island at that period under the power of Spain, but
+which Cromwell was very desirous of obtaining. From the copy of a
+State paper, it appears, however, that upon the arrival of the
+Commonwealth fleet, the Governor of Antigua, Christopher Reynall,
+represented to the commanders of the expedition, the disastrous
+state of the island, from the frequent, and particularly the
+_late_, molestations of the Caribs;--a fact so clearly presented
+to Pen and Venables, that they would not lessen the force of the
+place, by impressing any of its inhabitants for soldiers. They,
+therefore, remained only two days at Antigua, during which period
+they proclaimed the Protector with great pomp; and then proceeded
+to St. Christopher's, and the other leeward islands, where they
+procured a sufficient complement of men. I am sorry, however,
+that an historian of great fame states, "the troops raised in the
+West Indies were the most profligate of mankind."
+
+As Antigua did not eventually join in this expedition, it will be
+sufficient to remark, that the attack upon St. Domingo was very
+disastrous; for, although upon the first approach of the English,
+the Spaniards left their town and fled into the woods, the troops
+did not follow up their advantage. Venables allowed the soldiers
+to disembark, without a guide, ten miles from the capital; and,
+wandering about without any fixed purpose for the space of four
+days, they gave the Spaniards time to recover themselves from
+their alarm, and, rushing from their place of concealment, they
+fell upon the English, who were almost dead with fatigue and
+hunger, killed six hundred of them, and drove the remainder on
+board their vessels. In order to atone for their indiscretions,
+the English commanders resolved to proceed against Jamaica, also
+under the dominion of Spain, and which island immediately
+surrendered to the English flag, without a blow being struck in
+its defence. Colonel Doyly being appointed governor of the new
+gained colony, with about 3000 land forces under his command, and
+a fleet of men-of-war under Vice-Admiral Goodson, Pen and
+Venables prepared to return home. Landing the West India troops
+at their respective islands, the commanders sailed for England;
+but, upon their arrival, they were both sent to the Tower, for
+their failure upon St. Domingo, entirely owing to their want of
+proper conduct as English officers.
+
+Upon the Restoration, Antigua held out for the Commonwealth, as
+strenuously as in 1651 it had opposed the pretensions of
+Cromwell, and for this cause, Charles II. appointed Major-General
+Poyntz, a former deserter from the Parliamentary power, to act as
+governor, which situation he filled until 1663, when Lord Francis
+Willoughby, of Parham, obtained a grant of the entire island from
+Charles II. as a reward for his eminent services in the cause of
+that monarch; and Major-General Poyntz retired to Virginia.
+During the period this latter gentleman resided at Antigua as
+governor, he owned and planted an estate called by him Cassada
+Garden, a title which it still bears.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[4] The following extract alludes to the invasions of the Caribs
+(Rochfort's Histoire des Antilles, published at Rotterdam, 1665,
+tome 4, page 310):--"Les Caraibs ont fait des descent dans les
+isles de Montserrat, d'Antigoa, et en d'autres qui sont occupees
+par les Anglais, et apres avoir brule quelques maisons, et pille
+quelques meubles; ils ont enleve des hommes, des femmes et des
+enfans, qu'ils ont conduit a la Dominique et a St. Vincents."
+
+[5] An estate in Antigua called by that name.
+
+[6] This rock is still pointed out upon an estate, called
+Patterson's, belonging to the Hon. John Athill.
+
+[7] The proper appellation of this gentleman (according to the
+authority of E. S. B------, Esq.) is Colonel _Luke Stokes_; but,
+from an orthographical error of the French historian, _Du
+Tertre_, he has been handed down to posterity as Colonel _Lake_.
+He afterwards removed to Jamaica at the head of a small party of
+English settlers, where he died in 1659, universally esteemed for
+his virtues and honourable actions.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER III.
+
+
+
+  Rupture between France and England--War in the West Indies--
+  Loss of Lord Francis Willoughby--Colonel Carden--Capture of
+  Antigua by the French forces under M. de la Barre--Colonel
+  Fitche--Restoration of Antigua by the Treaty of Breda--Death of
+  Colonel Carden--Biographical notices.
+
+In 1665-6, England was engaged in a contest with Holland,
+Denmark, and France; and during that period, her colonies in the
+West Indies suffered greatly, particularly St. Christopher's and
+Antigua.
+
+St. Christopher's being reduced by the French, Lord Francis
+Willoughby headed an expedition of 2000 troops, and sailed from
+Barbados (where he was then residing in preference to Antigua)
+with the hope of recapturing that island. On his passage to St.
+Christopher's, he visited Martinique, with the design of
+surprising the place, and, after taking the French prisoners, to
+transport them to Antigua, Montserrat, and Nevis. The French,
+however, having received tidings of his movements, were
+accordingly prepared; and Lord Willoughby, finding himself
+baffled in his intentions, sailed for Guadaloupe, where he
+arrived on the 2nd of August. Before any success was effected
+against this island, a dreadful hurricane arose, which, raging
+with extreme violence for the space of twenty-four hours,
+entirely destroyed the fleet of Lord Willoughby, strewing the
+coast with its fragments, and every soul perished, with the
+exception of two seamen.[8]
+
+Before embarking upon this expedition, this ill-fated nobleman
+appointed his nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby, lieutenant-general
+and governor of these islands, who in his turn constituted
+Colonel Carden governor of Antigua.
+
+Before the declaration of war between France and England was
+published, several Frenchmen had left the French colonies, from
+different motives, and settled in Antigua, where they lived
+sociably with the English, and prosecuted their respective
+professions. After the rupture between those nations was known in
+the West Indies, and the report of the intended attack upon St.
+Christopher's by the French, reached the ears of Lord F.
+Willoughby, he dispatched his nephew, Mr. Henry Willoughby, to
+the relief of that place. Arriving, however, too late for the
+action, he was obliged to proceed with his ship to Antigua; and
+being (according to Du Tertre, the French historian) in "_a
+burning rage_" at the failure of his plans, he vented it upon the
+French settlers whom he found there--confiscating their property,
+forbidding them to quit their houses, or hold communications
+between themselves, under pain of death, and obliging them to
+swear allegiance to the English monarch.
+
+"Many of them submitted, in a very cowardly manner," remarks the
+above-named quaint author; "but others, _whose heart was in a
+better place, refused to do so_."
+
+Among these French settlers was a young surgeon, of the name of
+Grand-Maison, who had been formerly _valet-de-chambre_ to M. de
+la Barre, lieutenant-general by sea and land of the French
+forces, and who was fully alive to the tyrannical manner in which
+himself and his countrymen had been treated. Having a little more
+liberty than the others, from the nature of his profession,
+Grand-Maison had an opportunity of entering into conversation
+with another young Frenchman, of the name of Baston, who, says Du
+Tertre, "was skilful by sea and land, courageous and brave, and
+an admirer of firmness and constancy." Finding Grand-Maison
+entertained the same sentiments as himself, he proposed that they
+should steal a small shallop, which was attached by an iron chain
+to a post firmly planted in the beach, and taking advantage of
+the darkness of the night, effect their escape from the island.
+As, however, the oars had been carried away by the owner of the
+boat, they bribed a French carpenter, who was engaged working in
+some of the back woods of Antigua, to join them in their
+enterprise, and make them a pair in that retired place.
+
+Grand-Maison, who served a very rich master,[9] took the charge
+of bringing a sufficient quantity of provisions from his home;
+and between them they procured five muskets, a few pairs of
+pistols, some cutlasses, twenty or thirty pounds of powder, and
+lead in proportion. But thinking themselves not strong enough to
+man the shallop, Grand-Maison, who was very much beloved by the
+negroes, engaged two of them, who were esteemed excellent rowers,
+to accompany him.
+
+All things being duly prepared, they stole away from their
+masters by night, hurried to the beach, and the carpenter having
+sawn in two the post to which the boat was fastened, they
+departed, and made for Guadaloupe. After struggling manfully
+against the current and contrary winds for some time, running
+many risks of their lives, and putting back into Antigua once or
+twice, they changed their resolution, and made for St.
+Christopher's--arriving in Cabsterre, a district of that island,
+at the very time M. de Chambre was on the point of sailing for
+Martinique, to rejoin M. de la Barre, with all the French ships
+of war.
+
+M. Sannois, captain of that district, welcomed the adventurers,
+and treated them very kindly; and upon hearing their story, sent
+them to M. de St. Laurent, who, after examining them, and finding
+them well informed of the strength and natural barriers of
+Antigua--and more particularly, as Baston gave him a plan of the
+coast, shewing the best landing-places, and offered himself as a
+guide to the troops, to lead them to the place "wherever
+resistance might be expected," and to be _everywhere_ "at their
+head,"--he determined to send them with M. de Chambre to M. de la
+Barre, at Martinique.
+
+Upon their arrival at that island, at counsel was held, and
+Grand-Maison and Baston introduced, when the latter repeated his
+offers. The assembly was well pleased with his information and
+solid reflections; but M. de Chambre represented, that the
+officers of the French forces were so contented with the conquest
+of St. Kitts, that he thought they would be unwilling to engage
+in any new adventure, unless there was an augmentation of the
+troops. To this objection M. Clodore, the Governor of Martinique,
+replied, in such a splendid speech, abounding with so much true
+martial ardour, that every objection was borne down before him;
+and M. de Chambre was led to observe, that if M. St. Laurent had
+heard the powerful arguments brought forward by M. de Clodore, he
+would change his opinion, and join in attacking Antigua; and he
+did not believe M. St. Leon, (the commanding officer,) with his
+brother officers, would even stand firm in their resolution after
+hearing him. M. de Chambre then asked M. Clodore if he would
+accompany him to St. Christopher's, to consult with the other
+officers. M. Clodore immediately replied he should be most happy
+to do so, if M. de la Barre would give him such instructions in
+writing; which being directly complied with, they made sail 25th
+October, 1666, with seven vessels of war, carrying 166 pieces of
+cannon, and commanded by M. de la Barre, admiral of the whole
+fleet; M. de Clodore, Governor of Martinique; M. du Lion,
+Governor of Guadaloupe; M. de Chambre, Intendant of the French
+West Indian Company's affairs; and attended by 130 men of the
+regiment of Poictiers, commanded by Sieur d'Orvillier, and two
+companies of infantry, besides the seamen.
+
+Calling in at Guadaloupe, they held another council of war, in
+which it was determined to sail for St. Kitt's; but at the same
+time to come so near to Antigua as to be able to reconnoitre the
+island, and ascertain if it would be prudent to attack it before
+they proceeded to St. Christopher's.
+
+Leaving Guadaloupe on the 2nd November, they made sail for
+Antigua, bearing the English flag as a subterfuge, and thinking
+by that means to deceive the English. Upon reaching Antigua, they
+endeavoured to get into the harbour of St. John's; but meeting
+with contrary winds, they put back and made for Five Islands'
+Bay, which at that period was defended by two forts--the smaller
+one (which appears to have been only an artificial mound, without
+any parapets or any kind of fortifications) mounted with six
+guns; the larger one (with good stone buildings, and standing in
+that part now occupied by the batteries of "Goat's Hill") mounted
+with eight guns. The men stationed at the smaller fort had their
+suspicions first awakened by observing how carefully the French
+came in, sounding with the lead every moment; and consequently
+they determined to fire upon them.
+
+To this _warm_ welcome the French replied in such a manner,
+bringing all their guns to bear upon the place, that the English
+abandoned the fort, and fled. Arriving abreast of the larger
+fort, the French anchored at pistol-shot; and the firing was
+carried on with such vigour, that it was also abandoned, and that
+with such precipitancy, that the royal flag was left behind.
+
+The signal was now made for a party to land and take possession
+of the forts, with directions to capture all they could, but not
+to burn or destroy any part of the country, wisely remarking,
+according to their own narrator, that "they could do that another
+time." These orders for forbearance, if they were ever given,
+were not attended to; for everything that fell in their way was
+devastated; and it has been remarked by an old author, that the
+French robbed the very shoes from off the feet of the
+inhabitants.[10]
+
+But to return to the particulars of the attack. The next morning,
+about four o'clock, M. de Clodore, &c., attended by 200 men,
+landed upon the beach, and, guided by Baston, proceeded to the
+house where the governor, Colonel Carden, then resided, which was
+situated about a mile and a half from the shore. The English
+fought with their usual bravery, but were at length overpowered;
+and Colonel Carden, Colonel Monk, and about thirty other
+officers, were taken prisoners, and the house burnt to the
+ground.
+
+The governor, being thus captured, was conveyed on board the
+admiral's ship; and the French were so elated with their success,
+that they determined to push on their good fortune, and endeavour
+to subdue the whole island. The next day, they again landed at
+daybreak, attended by 240 men, divided into two companies, and
+guided by Baston. Reaching a large house situated upon a hill,
+they dispatched a trumpeter to summon the inhabitants to
+surrender, among whom was Mrs. Carden, the wife of the governor.
+This trumpeter carried a letter, written by Colonel Carden,
+describing how well he was treated(?), and advising them not to
+wait to the last extremity to surrender, but to do so without
+delay. To this letter they returned a verbal answer, thanking the
+French for their polite treatment to their governor, but at the
+same time intimating, that they were resolved to do their duty,
+and resist to the last.
+
+Upon receiving this reply, the French commanders prepared for
+battle, and resolved to storm the house. At first they were
+repulsed by the English; and the greater part of the regiment of
+Poictiers, commanded by the Sieur d'Orvillier, being seized with
+a panic, retreated and concealed themselves in a neighbouring
+wood; but Mons. de Clodore, seeing the state of affairs, hurried
+to the spot, and, being joined by the officers of the regiment
+and about thirty of the common soldiers, whom they had prevailed
+upon to leave their concealment, made a second attack upon the
+house, and succeeded in forcing an entrance.
+
+A battalion of the English making their appearance upon the hill
+behind the house, M. de Clodore drew off his men to engage with
+them, while D'Orvillier and the rest of the party were left in
+charge of the edifice. Upon entering, they found Colonel Quest
+(who had taken the command of the island after the seizure of
+Colonel Carden) seated "in an arm-chair, with a pair of pistols
+cocked in his hand," and surrounded by a few brave English.
+Colonel Quest demanded quarter, to which a Frenchman replied by
+sending a ball through his body; and the rest of the English who
+were with him, were slaughtered without mercy.
+
+In justice to M. de Clodore, it must be remarked, that as soon as
+he knew of these proceedings, he endeavoured to put a stop to
+them, and finally saved the lives of about fifty English, who had
+concealed themselves in another part of the house.
+
+After burning down the edifice, and many others in the vicinity--
+which were described as being very handsome ones--killing fifty
+of the English, and getting all the plunder they could, the
+French proceeded to the beach, carrying their prisoners, about
+fifty in number, along with them. Upon arriving there, it was
+agreed to ship them immediately, and despatch them to St. Kitts,
+with the wounded Frenchmen, among whom was Baston, the instigator
+of the attack, and who afterwards died of his wound at that
+island.[11] When Colonel Quest was to be carried down to the
+beach along with the other prisoners, he was found to be so
+seriously wounded, that he was unable to walk; and consequently,
+one of the French officers proposed to despatch him, offering to
+do the deed himself. At this barbarous scheme, M. de Clodore was
+justly incensed; and, ordering a few of his soldiers to form a
+kind of bier, had him carefully conducted on board the ship that
+was to carry him to St. Kitts, in which island he also died.
+
+After getting rid of their prisoners, the French held another
+council of war, when it was resolved to send a trumpeter,
+summoning all the inhabitants to surrender, threatening to set
+fire to all their property should they demur. A compliance with
+this demand appears to have been wholly unexpected by the French,
+and their threat of burning only a species of _bravado_; for at
+this council it was resolved, that if the English held out, they
+would immediately sail for St. Christopher's with the whole
+fleet. Fate, however, willed it otherwise, and the trumpeter
+brought answer back, that the English were willing to accede to
+their demand, and desired a place to be appointed in which to
+treat about the terms of capitulation. Overjoyed at their
+unexpected success, the French named the harbour of St. John's as
+the place of treaty; and accordingly despatched one of their
+frigates--the "Armes d'Angleterre," on board of which the
+conference was to be held. On the tenth of November, 1666, M. de
+Clodore, M. de Chambre, &c. &c., accompanied by four shallops,
+containing eighty armed men, proceeded on board that vessel, and
+were quickly joined by Lieut.-Colonel Bastien Baijer, Colonel
+Buckley, Joseph Lee, Captain Samuel Winthorp,[12] Captain Philip
+Warner, and James Halliday, who were appointed by the English to
+sign the capitulation.
+
+All arms, ammunition, forts, batteries, &c., were to be given up
+to the French; but the English were to be allowed to retain their
+property, have free exercise of their religion; (except in that
+immediate district which the French governor might choose as his
+quarters;) and Colonel Carden, who had been detained prisoner of
+war on board one of the enemy's vessels, was to be restored to
+liberty.
+
+After signing the capitulation, on the 12th of November, the
+English deputies despatched Colonel Buckley on board the "Armes
+d'Angleterre," with the information that there were three hundred
+soldiers arrived from Barbados, which would prevent them from
+fulfilling their part of the treaty; _but that if the French
+thought proper to hazard an attack, they (the deputies) would not
+interfere_.
+
+Upon receiving this message, the greater part of the French
+officers were for detaining Colonel Buckley as an hostage, as
+well as refusing to liberate Colonel Carden; but to this M. de
+Clodore would not assent, remarking that as he had given his word
+to restore Colonel Carden to liberty, and Colonel Buckley had
+come on board under protection of a flag of truce, they should
+both be conveyed safely to land. This was accordingly done the
+same day; but Monsieur Giraud, the head commander of St. Kitts,
+seeing Colonel Buckley on shore, and not being aware of M. de la
+Barre's intentions towards him, had him seized and conveyed on
+board the admiral's ship; who, being of different opinion to M.
+de Clodore, detained him as a hostage; and the whole of the
+French forces having embarked, the fleet sailed for St. Kitts,
+where they arrived on the 15th of November.
+
+After remaining there a few days, M. de Clodore sailed for
+Martinique to transact some necessary business, and then,
+accompanied by a fleet of six frigates, returned to Antigua, to
+oblige the inhabitants to fulfil the treaty they had signed. He
+arrived on the 30th of November, but found the state of affairs
+entirely changed, Mr. Willoughby having appointed Colonel Daniel
+Fitche, (who upon the former visit of the French was staying at
+Nevis,) governor of Antigua, in place of Colonel Carden, and the
+island being reinforced by the arrival of some troops from
+Barbados.
+
+Surprised but not intimidated, M. de Clodore, with the
+concurrence of his principal officers, sent a trumpeter to
+Colonel Carden, calling upon him to fulfil the treaty, and oblige
+the inhabitants to surrender. This message was received by
+Colonel Carden in the presence of some of the English officers;
+but the same night, by the order of Colonel Fitche, (who was
+displeased at his expressing his opinion, that it was but
+equitable to stand by their written contract,) he was arrested
+and sent to prison. Upon this occasion, Mrs. Carden despatched
+the following letter to M. de Clodore:--
+
+"Mons.,
+
+"Mon mary cette nuit a este enleve d'aupres de moy par deux
+officers et deux soldats, et ce qu'ils pretendent faire de moy et
+des miens, jusqu'a present ie n'en scay encore rien; mais en
+crains qu'il ne nous en arrive mal. Je vous supplie
+tres-humblement, Monsieur, voyant que moy, les mien, et ma
+famille est delaissee et abandonee de nostre nation; qu'il vous
+plaise nous prendre sous votre protection, nous qui n'avons leve
+la main ni le coeur contre vous; et moy et les miens, et beaucoup
+d'autres, prieront pour vostre prosperite et ie prend la
+hardiesse de me qualifier,
+
+                    "Monsieur, vostres, &c.
+
+                                             "Marie Carden."[13]
+
+[N.B.--These letters are literally transcribed.]
+
+Upon the same day, Colonel Carden despatched the following letter
+to M. de Clodore:--
+
+"Monsieur,
+
+"J'aurois eu l'honneur de vous aller trouver, mais i'ay este
+intercepte par ordre de Mons. le Gouverneur Fitche, et il ne m'a
+pas este permis de sortir. J'espere, Monsieur, que ne croirez, ni
+ne iugerez autre chose de celuy qui prend la liberte de se
+souscrire,--Mons., votres, &c.
+
+                                            "Robert Carden."[14]
+
+Soon after sending this letter, Colonel Carden was liberated, and
+immediately proceeding on board the French ship, delivered
+himself up to M. de Clodore, and informed him that Colonel Fitche
+and his troops were encamped at Pope's Head. Upon hearing this,
+M. de Clodore immediately weighed anchor, and sailing round the
+coast, arrived off Pope's Head the same night. The next morning,
+the following letters were despatched to him from the English
+camp:--
+
+"Monsieur,
+
+"Nous avons receu vos semonces de venir a bord delivrant en
+vostre possession nos armes et munitions de guerre; laquelle
+chose, le changement de nos affaires est tel depuis vostre
+depart, qu'il ne vous la peut pas permettre. Monsieur le
+Lieut.-General de nostre roy ayant envoye icy le Col. Daniel
+Fitche pour son gouverneur, luy a donne pouvoir sur toute la
+milice de cette isle: si-bien, Mons., que nous sommes devenus
+tout-a-fait incapables de vous donner aucune reponse
+satisfactoire; et sur l'examination des affaires passees, a
+trouve qu'elles estoient beaucoup a notres preiudice; et en
+particulier envoyant les Careibes deux fois sur nous contre
+l'obligation de vos articles, et les loix des nations, des
+personnes qui sont cruels, tout-a-fait barbares et ignorans de
+Dieu et de toutes civilitez. Neanmoins, Monsieur, nous vous
+supplions suivant ce que nous avons deiafait, d'en faire vos
+demandes a nostre dit gouverneur, qui est uniquement experimente
+en matiere de guerre. En attendant nous demeurons,
+
+             "Monsieur, vos tres-humble serviteurs,
+
+                                   "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."[15]
+
+"Mons.,
+
+"Nous avons receu la vostre, a laquelle nous ne pouvons a present
+faire aucune reponse, si non qu'il n'est pas en nostre pouvoir de
+convenir a vos semonces, ni a aucunes choses cy-devant faites;
+parce que depuis vostre depart d'icy, est arrive le Col. Daniel
+Fitche, avec commission de Monsieur le Lieut.-Gen. pour
+gouverneur, auquel vos semonces et demandes doivent estre faites,
+comme estant seul commandant de la milice. Nous trouvons que nous
+avons receu grand preiudice a la rupture des articles concernans
+les Careibes, qui ont deux fois attente sur nous a leur maniere
+accoustumee, qui est cruelle et barbarienne. Nous serions reiouis
+de vous voir si le souhaittez; car on attend icy quinze navires
+de la Barbade, dont il y en a cinq de trente pieces de canon
+chacun, et deux de soixante, et huit navires marchands de vingt a
+trente pieces de canon, avec mil soldats du roy vestus de
+casaques rouges, avec quantite d'armes: vous presentant vous
+rendrez service. Nous demeurons,
+
+          "Monsieur, vos asseurez amis et serviteurs,
+
+                                   "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."[16]
+
+Upon receiving these letters, M. de Clodore held a council with
+his officers, the results of which were as follow:--
+
+"As the enemy have made no answer to our summons, sent three days
+ago, to fulfil the conditions of the treaty made with them; but,
+on the contrary, they have sent these letters this morning, in
+which, after having sought vain pretences of rupture, they
+declare they are not willing to fulfil it, and at the same time
+they have disposed guard-houses along the coast, and caused
+several armed persons to oppose our landing; it has been found
+proper to accept the rupture they have made of the treaty, and
+after having fired a cannon-ball at them, to land, in order to
+make them return to their duty, without paying regard to the
+letters they have sent. Besides the absence of Monsieur de la
+Barre, and the necessity we are in to send back immediately the
+island troops to Martinique and Guadaloupe, to oppose the enemy,
+who, according to advices received, will soon arrive there, it is
+impossible now to keep the island of Antigua for the king. It has
+therefore been thought proper to land, attack the enemy, and, in
+case of success, place the island in such a state, that the enemy
+can draw no sort of profit from it.
+
+"Done unanimously between us, the undersigned, in the harbour of
+Antigua, the 3rd December, 1666.
+
+                                                    "De Clodore,
+                                                        Blondel,
+                                                     Hinsselin."
+
+During the period the council was being held, several armed
+soldiers, (of the English troops,) impatient to know what answer
+would be returned to their letters, appeared upon the beach; upon
+which, according to the resolutions already passed, a cannon-ball
+was fired at them, when they dispersed, and appeared no more,
+without a white flag in their hand. Before the French council
+broke up, an English officer came on board, bringing the
+following letter for M. de Clodore:--
+
+"Monsieur,
+
+"Nous vous avons envoye ce matin telle reponse que nous pouvions,
+estant sous le commandement et autorite de Mons. le Gouverneur,
+au pouvoir duquel n'estions pas capables de resister; mais depuis
+que nous luy avons fait voir amplement la raison de nostre
+premier traite et nostre refus de rompre, avons tant fait qu'il
+en est demeure d'accord, moyennant qu'il y soit, compris comme le
+reste des habitans; le dit traite et accord sera ponctuellement
+ratifie et effectue en toutes ses particularitez.
+
+                      "Monsieur, vos, &c.,
+
+                                   "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."[17]
+
+But paying no regard to this letter, M. de Clodore wrote them as
+follows:--
+
+"Messieurs,
+
+"J'ay este fort surpris, lorsque j'ay veu que vous n'avez pas
+repondu a la sommation que ie vous ay fait faire, et encore
+davantage lorsque i'ay leu la lettre que vous m'avez envoyee ce
+matin, ou vous nous accusez de vous avoir traite avec rigueur,
+pour chercher pretexte de rompre comme vous avez fait, en
+manquant a vostre foy et a vostre parolle. Je descends a terre et
+vous vais trouver, pour vous mettre a vostre devoir par la voye
+des armes: ceux qui les poseront, auront de moy bon quartier, et
+les autres seront traitez selon la rigueur de la guerre.
+
+                       "Vostre serviteur,
+
+                                               "De Clodore."[18]
+
+Immediately after sending this letter, M. de Clodore and
+Hinscelin landed with the French forces; but, upon gaining the
+beach, they were met by a party of the English, bearing a flag of
+truce, and offering, in the name of the inhabitants, to give up
+all pretensions to this island, provided they would include
+Governor Fitche in the treaty.
+
+To this proposition M. de Clodore would not assent, but forming
+his troops into battle array, marched to attack the English. The
+result of this encounter appears to me so remarkable, that it
+obliges me again and again to assure my readers I give the true
+translation: "marching to attack the new Governor and his eight
+or nine hundred men, only two shots were fired by the English,
+one of which wounded _their own sentinel_, and this was the only
+blood spilt in this engagement; and Governor Fitche hearing that
+M. de Clodore was coming up with all his troops, and four pieces
+of artillery, ran away in a boat with Colonel Warner and some
+others, saying to his soldiers only these words--"God be with me,
+and with you."
+
+Thus have I narrated the reduction of Antigua by the French,
+following the steps of their own historian, "Du Tertre," who of
+course speaks in favour of his own countrymen. Antigua remained a
+French colony, although of no use to the nation, except from the
+plunder obtained from it, until the following year, when by the
+treaty of Breda, Louis XIV. restored it to the English crown.[19]
+The French appear to have ever doubted their success; and their
+attack upon Antigua, in the first instance, seemed only intended
+as a feint; but by one of those extraordinary accidents, which we
+often meet with in the annals of nations, the island was reduced,
+and in the second attack, if we may believe Du Tertre, _only two
+shots_ were fired in its defence.
+
+At the period of this conquest of Antigua, there were about 800
+negroes upon the island, but of these the French could only find
+about 500, which they carried away with them, along with their
+plunder. The after fate of Colonel Carden was truly shocking.
+Soon after the French had abandoned Antigua, a party of Caribs
+landed, and cruelly treated the defenceless inhabitants. At
+length they proceeded to the house of the ex-governor, Colonel
+Carden, who treated them very kindly, and administered to their
+want. Upon their leaving, they requested their entertainer to
+accompany them to the beach, who instantly complied; but the
+Caribs, more treacherous than the wild beasts that haunt the
+desert, had no sooner reached the place where their canoes were
+stationed, than they fell upon their kind host, cruelly murdered
+him, and broiled his head, which they afterwards carried with
+them to Dominica. Nor were they satisfied with this horrible
+piece of barbarity; for, to make the tragedy complete, they
+returned to Colonel Carden's house, seized his wife and children,
+and after telling them of the fate of their kind relative,
+hurried them away into a captivity worse than death.
+
+The Bastian Baijer--whose name appears conspicuous in signing the
+capitulation, and in the after letters which passed between the
+English and the French--was of Dutch extraction, and one who
+emigrated to this island at an early period of its colonization.
+He died in London, in the year 1704, and in his will directed
+that his remains should be interred in the vaults of the Dutch
+church in Austin Friars, which was accordingly done. Many of the
+descendants (or rather representatives, for Bastian Baijer died
+without issue, and left his property to the person who assumed
+his name) of Bastian Baijer have resided in the island until
+within a year or two. The remains of one member of that family,
+Otto Baijer, Esq., moulders beneath the beautiful tomb, a
+description of which will be found in Chapter XV.; and the
+remaining scion of the house, a female, was shortly since united
+to the Hon. Owen Pell, of Antigua, and of Suwell, county of
+Northampton.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[8] It is said, that some part of Lord Willoughby's fleet escaped
+the hurricane, and reached Jamaica in safety.
+
+[9] It must be remembered, that at the time we are now speaking
+of, surgeons did not hold that respectable rank in society as
+they now--that is, most of them--deservedly fill. Not so very
+many years ago, naval surgeons in particular were very little
+thought of; and even in the British navy, they were required to
+perform the office of barber, as well as attend to the bodily
+ailments of the crew.
+
+[10] To shew the state to which the French reduced the island,
+the following extract from a letter written by Count D'Estrade,
+ambassador from the French king to Charles II. of England, dated
+26th May, 1667, and addressed to Louis XIV., is inserted:--"Il
+nous dit de plus que le Sieur de la Barre avat ruine celle
+d'Antigoa, et en avait fait transporter tout ce qu'il avait pu
+afin d'etre mieux en etat de conserver de St. Christophe."
+
+_Translation_.--"He"--that is, the deputy from Zealand, with whom
+Count D'Estrade had had a conference at Breda, on 21st May, 1667
+--"informed us, in addition, that the said M. de la Barre had
+ruined the colony of Antigua, and had taken and transported from
+it all that he could, to the end that he might be in a better
+condition to retain possession of St. Christopher's."
+
+[11] His tombstone may be still seen in one of the churchyards of
+St. Christopher's.
+
+[12] For account of this gentleman, see Appendix, No. 3.
+
+[13] "Sir,--My husband has been arrested by two officers and two
+soldiers this night, and what they intend doing with me and my
+family, I know not even now; but I fear that some ill
+consequences will attend it. I beseech you humbly, Sir, seeing
+that myself and family are abandoned by our countrymen, that it
+may please you to protect us who have never assailed you; and
+myself, and family, and many others, shall pray for your
+prosperity; and I take the boldness to qualify myself,
+
+       "Sir, your very humble and very obedient servant,
+
+                                                  "Mary Carden."
+
+[14] "Sir,--I should have had the honour of waiting upon you, but
+I have been intercepted by the order of Governor Fitche, and I
+have been in custody since. I hope, Sir, you will not believe or
+think otherwise of him who takes the liberty of subscribing
+himself, Sir, yours, &c.,
+
+                                                "Robert Carden."
+
+[15] "Sir,--We have received your summons to come on board to
+deliver our arms and ammunition; which thing, such is the change
+in our affairs since your departure, as not to permit of our
+doing. The lieut.-general of our king having sent Colonel Daniel
+Fitche as his governor, has given him power over all the militia
+of this island. Thus, Sir, we are become entirely unable to give
+you any satisfactory answer; and, upon examination of the
+transactions which have taken place, we have found that they were
+so much to our prejudice, and in particular, sending the Caribs
+twice upon us, against the obligation of your articles and the
+laws of nations; persons who are cruel, entirely barbarous, and
+ignorant of God and of all civilities. However, Sir, we pray you,
+as we have already done, to address your demands to our governor,
+who alone is experienced in matters of war. In the meantime, we
+remain, yours, &c. &c.,
+                      "Bastien Baijer.        Gilbert Gregory.
+                       Philip Warner.         Henry Reynall.
+                       Richard Boraston.      Jeremiah Watkins.
+                       Samuel Winthorpe."
+
+[16] "Sir,--We have received your letter, to which we cannot at
+present give any other answer, but that it is not in our power to
+yield to your summons, nor to agree to anything done before;
+because, since your departure from here, Colonel Daniel Fitche is
+arrived, with commission from the lieutenant-general as governor,
+in obedience to an order from the king, which has been published.
+It is to the said governor that your summons and demands must be
+addressed, for he is the sole commander of the militia. We think
+that we have suffered great injury at the rupture of the articles
+concerning the Caribs, who attacked us twice in their wonted
+manner, which is cruel and barbarous. We would be glad to see
+you, _if you wish_, for we expect here, fifteen ships from
+Barbados, five of which are of fifteen guns each, and two of
+sixty; and eight merchantmen, of twenty to thirty guns; with a
+thousand of the king's soldiers, _dressed in their red jackets_,
+and a quantity of arms. By coming, you will render service. We
+remain, &c.,
+
+                                       "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."
+
+[17] "Sir,--We have sent this morning the only answer we could
+give, being under the command and authority of the governor, to
+whose power we could not resist; but as we have shewn him the
+reason of our first treaty, and our refusal to break it, we have
+done so much that he has agreed with us, provided he be included
+in it, with the rest of the inhabitants: the said treaty and
+agreement will be punctually ratified and executed in all its
+parts.
+
+                                       "Bastien Baijer, &c. &c."
+
+[18] "Gentlemen,--I have been much surprised when I saw that you
+made no answer to the summons given you, and much more yet when I
+read the letters you sent me this morning, in which you charge us
+with having treated you with rigour, which is seeking for a
+pretence of rupture, as you have done by not keeping your faith
+and word. I am landing and coming to you, to teach you your duty
+by force of arms: those who will lay down their arms will have
+good quarter from me, and the others shall be treated according
+to the rigour of war. Your servant,
+
+                                                   "De Clodore."
+
+[19] It was for some time pending in the mind of Louis XIV.
+whether he should, or should not, restore Antigua to its rightful
+sovereign; and several letters passed between the King of the
+French and his ambassador, Count D'Estrade, (the deputy from
+Zealand assuring the count that he would use his influence to
+retain Antigua for his majesty, should such be his wish,) upon
+the subject. At length, however, Louis XIV., after much
+hesitation, authorized its rendition by a letter to Count
+D'Estrade, dated 6th May, 1667, of which the following is a
+translation:--
+
+"I have always forgotten to inform you, and even to put it in
+your instructions, that it is my intention to surrender the
+island of Antigua to the English, which belonged to them before
+the war. Thus you will make no difficulty by promising, by the
+treaty (of Breda), that all things shall be established in the
+island of St. Christopher, and that of Antigua, as they were
+previously to the rupture," &c.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+
+  Governors: Lord William Willoughby, Henry Willoughby--Arrival
+  of Major, afterwards Lieutenant-General Byam, the progenitor of
+  the family of that name--Biographical remarks--Partition of the
+  Caribbee Islands--Sir William Stapleton--General Council and
+  Assembly--Colonel Philip Warner--Expedition against the Caribs
+  --Death of Indian Warner--Arrest and trial of Colonel P. Warner
+  --Acquittal--Dampier's account of this affair--Captain
+  Southey's History of the Indian Warner.
+
+After peace had been once more proclaimed between France and
+England, and Antigua restored to its rightful sovereign, the
+English government, being fully assured of the death of Lord
+Francis Willoughby, appointed Lord William Willoughby, of Parham,
+(who when the royalists rose against the parliament, after the
+deposition of Richard Cromwell, undertook to secure Lynn for his
+exiled majesty,) Captain-General and chief Governor of Barbados,
+Antigua, and the rest of the Leeward Caribbee Islands, as some
+reward for his services.
+
+Lord William Willoughby arrived at Antigua about 1668, and
+appointed Samuel Winthorpe his deputy-governor. During the first
+year of his lordship's administration, a registrar's office was
+established, and fees appointed for the same. The registrar and
+recorder was to be "a person of good discretion and honesty," and
+his salary paid in sugar and tobacco.[20] Acts were also passed
+for the "settling the inhabitants in their lands" and "for the
+encouragement and promoting the settling of the island"--very
+necessary measures, as all was in confusion, from the late cruel
+dealing of the French, in so dismantling their promising colony.
+This year also (1668) commenced the four and a half per cent.
+duty; which was an impost upon all native productions shipped
+from the island, to be paid to the reigning monarch, his heirs,
+and successors, in consideration of new grants of lands being
+given to the inhabitants after the restoration of Antigua to the
+English crown; all old titles to lands having become void by
+reason of the late conquest, by the French.
+
+Lord William Willoughby removing to Barbados about this time,
+nominated his son, Henry Willoughby, as acting-governor, the same
+gentleman who was left by Lord F. Willoughby deputy-governor of
+Barbados during his absence upon the disastrous expedition
+already spoken of. Nothing of much importance occurred during the
+short period Mr. H. Willoughby held the government. War had not
+broken out in the West Indies, although it threatened the mother
+country, so that the Antiguans had a little quiet to settle their
+domestic affairs. One of the first points to which they turned
+their attention was to endeavour to suppress the strong habit of
+profane cursing and swearing which had crept in among their
+community, and also to put a stop to the prevalence of inebriety.
+To bring this desirable reformation about, the legislature
+enacted, that a fine of ten pounds of sugar, or tobacco, was to
+be imposed upon every one who uttered an oath, or opened his lips
+to curse; and if any one was discovered in a state of
+intoxication, he could be made to pay fifty pounds of sugar, or
+not being able to procure that quantity, and being possessed of
+no other property which could be levied upon, he was condemned to
+be placed in the public stocks for the space of four hours. It
+would be well if something of the kind was in force now; our ears
+would not then, perhaps, be so frequently shocked as they are
+liable to be at every hour of the day by the passers-by.
+Regulations were also made for establishing a public treasury in
+the island, and regard paid to the martial bearing of the
+inhabitants, by exercising them in the science of arms.
+
+Among the settlers who came to Antigua with Francis Lord
+Willoughby, of Parham, was William Byam, a distinguished
+royalist, at that time major, but who afterwards acquired the
+rank of lieutenant-general.
+
+In 1644, Mayor Byam was among the officers in garrison at
+Bridgewater, and being on guard when an attempt was made by the
+parliamentary army to take the town by surprise, he defeated the
+forces with great slaughter, thereby averting for some time the
+fate of that important fortress. On the following year, Cromwell
+and Fairfax coming against Bridgewater with an overwhelming
+power, after a gallant and desperate resistance, the town was
+taken, and quarter only given to the garrison. The officers were
+immediately sent to London, and put at the disposal of the
+Parliament, whence they were despatched to the Tower, and other
+public prisons. After remaining in the Tower for some months,
+Major Byam accepted a pass "to go beyond the seas," (as the term
+then was,) and, with some of his military friends, he accordingly
+left the home of his fathers, and sought in Barbados--that last
+asylum for royalists--a retreat from the Oliverian power. Soon
+after his arrival, the important post of "treasurer of the
+island," as well as "master of the ordnance," was conferred upon
+him, together with large grants of land; but the number of
+_refugees_ increasing in the colony to such a surprising height,
+the Parliament became alarmed, and, in 1651, sent a fleet and
+armament, under command of Sir George Ayscue, to reduce the
+island. There being a defection in the garrison, owing to the
+withdrawal of Colonel Thomas Modiford from the side of the king,
+after a resistance of six months, the governor, Lord Francis
+Willoughby, of Parham, was compelled to think of terms; and
+accordingly he appointed, along with three other commissioners,
+Major Byam to negotiate a surrender. This gentleman and his
+coadjutors performed their parts so ably, that they obtained from
+the admiral terms allowed by all historians as alike
+"comprehensive and honourable." Indeed, when they were reported
+to England, though the Parliament did not refuse to ratify them,
+yet, considering them much too favourable, they never afterwards
+countenanced Sir George Ayscue. The very first act of the
+Parliament possession, contrary to the tenor of some of the
+articles, was to banish Mayor Byam and the other commissioners,
+and about ten more of the royalists, including Lord Willoughby
+himself. Major Byam retired to the then newly-founded settlement
+of Surinam, which being composed chiefly of the refugee followers
+of Charles, they, in those times of turmoil, elected him, by
+united suffrages, governor of the colony in 1654. In this
+situation he continued for six successive years, although
+Cromwell had despatched an officer of his own to take the
+command, being elected by universal voice, until the Restoration,
+when, in virtue of the proclamation at that time issued, he
+became governor for the crown. He was afterwards more formally
+confirmed in this appointment, in which he remained until the
+removal of the colony (or at least a large portion of it) to the
+island of Antigua, in virtue of the treaty of Breda, in 1667. Of
+this island he also became an early governor, as is still to be
+seen by many documents in the registrar's office, and resumed to
+himself that property which he had before acquired when on a
+visit to the island with Francis Lord Willoughby in 1650; and
+now, by letters patent for the crown, under date April, 1668,
+20th Charles II., among the estates of Lieutenant-General Byam
+renewed to him at this period, were the present Cedar Hill and
+his Willoughby Bay estate.[21]
+
+In 1672, his majesty Charles II. deemed it proper to make some
+alteration in the affairs of the West Indies. Hitherto all the
+Caribbee Islands were united under one government, but after the
+return of Lord William Willoughby to England, the king entered
+into fresh arrangements with the colonies, appointed him
+captain-general of Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Vincent's and
+Dominica; and Sir William Stapleton captain-general and
+commander-in-chief of Antigua and the other Leeward Islands. This
+Windward Island's separation continues at the present time, after
+undergoing many changes, by having their own particular governor;
+as far as regards Barbados, St Lucia, and St. Vincent's. Dominica
+has at length been united with Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, St.
+Christopher's, Anguilla, Tortola, and the Virgin Islands, which
+now form the Leeward Caribbee government.
+
+During the general government, a general council and assembly was
+held at either of the islands whenever the legislature deemed any
+important matter rendered it necessary to convene them; but the
+respective islands in the government, however, retained each
+their laws as regarded local circumstances. When the
+commander-in-chief found it necessary for the public good to call
+together this general council and assembly, the freeholders of
+each island met together and made choice of five eligible
+inhabitants to act as their representatives.
+
+The convening of this general council and assembly accounts for
+the affairs of these different islands being wound up together,
+and laws which were passed at the one, answering, in many
+instances, for the others.
+
+Sir William Stapleton preferring Nevis, he made that island the
+seat of government, and Colonel Philip Warner (Sir Thomas
+Warner's son by his second wife) was appointed governor of
+Antigua. A very necessary precaution was adopted about this time
+--namely, the preventing persons wandering about cane-pieces,
+with lighted torches, hunting for land-crabs. If a free person
+was found so offending, the culprit was to pay into the public
+treasury one thousand pounds of sugar or tobacco; or if a slave,
+he was to be publicly whipped. This very dangerous practice
+continues to this day in seasons when the land-crabs are upon
+their travels, and certainly ought to meet with some punishment.
+So careless and thoughtless are the negroes, that large pieces of
+fire are frequently dropped upon the road while thus employed,
+which they never think of extinguishing; and as the scene of
+their exploits is generally in the vicinity of cane-pieces, where
+there is often a large quantity of dry cane-leaves, called in the
+country idiom, trash, serious accidents might, and indeed have
+been the result.
+
+It was also deemed advisable to ordain that marriages solemnized
+by the governor, council, or any justice of peace, should, in
+absence of beneficed clergymen from the island, be adjudged
+equally binding and lawful, as if the ceremony had been performed
+by an orthodox minister. This was a regulation very necessary in
+that early period, when there was as yet no established church
+erected, or any clergymen officiating in the colony; and,
+consequently, marriages were obliged to be celebrated by a civil
+power. It was also enacted by the legislature this year (1672),
+that slaves killed or maimed, while acting in defence of the
+country, should have their value ascertained by arbitration, and
+the amount paid over to their owners from the public treasury.
+
+In 1674, the inhabitants of Antigua presented an address to the
+captain-general, Sir William Stapleton, praying him to grant them
+a commission "to kill and destroy the Indians inhabiting the
+island of Dominica."
+
+From the period when Antigua was first settled by the English,
+the Caribs, as we have already seen, had been in the constant
+habit of landing upon it, and perpetrating the most fearful and
+horrid acts of violence upon its inhabitants. So frequent and
+barbarous were these attacks, that the colony at one time was in
+danger of being abandoned; and nothing but firm and vigorous
+measures on the part of the English could restrain the fury of
+their Indian adversaries, and quell their turbulent assaults.
+
+As soon, therefore, as his excellency, Sir William Stapleton,
+acceded to the request of the Antiguans in granting a commission,
+a large party of volunteers was formed, aided by some of the
+settlers from the neighbouring islands, of which, at the earnest
+entreaties of the council and assembly of Antigua, Governor
+Philip Warner took the command. They immediately proceeded to
+Dominica; and however different historians may relate the events
+of this action, they all concur in stating, that the English
+obtained a most signal victory over their Indian foes. In this
+fray the illegitimate son of Sir Thomas Warner, by a Carib woman
+--who was generally known by the name of Thomas Warner, or
+"Indian Warner," and who is said to have headed the Indians in
+many of their attacks upon the English--fell, as it is supposed,
+by the hands of his half-brother, Philip Warner, the governor of
+Antigua. Whether this deed was done by open warfare, or by
+treacherous means, is uncertain; but, upon the return of Colonel
+Philip Warner, the governor, to Antigua, after the reduction of
+the Caribs, the circumstances of the death of Indian Warner were
+inquired into either by Sir William Stapleton or Lord Willoughby,
+the results of which were, that Colonel Philip Warner was sent to
+England to stand his trial for the murder of his half-brother.
+After being kept in the Tower of London for some time, Colonel
+Warner was placed on board the Phoenix frigate, and despatched to
+Barbados, in order that he might be tried in the Court of Oyer
+and Terminer in that island.
+
+This resolution, on the part of the home government, was no
+sooner known in Antigua, than a strong remonstrance was drawn up
+in the name of the inhabitants, and after being signed by sixteen
+of the most influential men among the legislature, was
+transmitted to the justices for the trial of Colonel Warner at
+Barbados, setting forth the facts, that it was only through the
+most earnest prayer of the Antiguans, and not from any private
+motives of his own, that he was induced to take the command upon
+the attack of the Caribs, in which action the Indian Warner fell.
+The facts of this case being fully investigated, Colonel Warner
+was honourably acquitted, his lands,[22] which he had quietly
+yielded up on being sent to England for trial, were restored, and
+he was again permitted to exercise the functions of governor of
+Antigua.
+
+It certainly appears rather extraordinary that Colonel Warner
+should have stood his trial for this massacre of the Indians,
+when we find, that for more than fifty years after this
+occurrence, the Caribs were still hunted and destroyed as so many
+reptiles; but Indian Warner was one who ranked rather high in the
+opinion of Lord William Willoughby, and probably that nobleman
+felt incensed at his death. Many are the opinions of writers upon
+this subject. While some look upon Colonel Warner as the
+unjustified murderer of his half-brother; others are led to
+palliate the circumstances on the plea of Indian Warner being the
+chief actor in those cruel Carib attacks, which were generally
+made upon unarmed Englishmen, or their defenceless wives and
+children.
+
+Dampier, one of the greatest navigators among the Buccaneers,
+(before that name had acquired a dread from the lawless and
+bloody deeds its chieftains committed,) visited Antigua about the
+period of Indian Warner's death; and in his history of his
+voyages he has the following passage:--"About this time (1674)
+the Caribbees had done some spoil on our English plantations at
+Antego, and therefore Governor Warner's son by his wife took a
+party of men, and went to suppress these Indians, and came to the
+place where his brother _Indian_ Warner lived. Great seeming joy
+there was at their meeting, but how far real the event shewed;
+for the _English_ Warner, providing plenty of liquor, and
+inviting his half-brother to be merry with him, in the midst of
+his entertainment, ordered his men, upon a signal given, to
+murder him and all his Indians, which was accordingly performed.
+The reason of this inhuman action is diversely reported. Some say
+that this Indian Warner committed all the spoil that was done to
+the English, and for that reason his brother killed him and his
+men. Others, that he was a great friend to the English, and would
+not suffer his men to hurt them, but did all that lay in his
+power to draw them to an amicable commerce; and that his brother
+killed him because he was ashamed to be related to an Indian.
+But, be it how it may, he was called in question for the murder,
+and forced to come home, and take his trial in England. Such
+perfidious doings as these, besides the baseness of them, are
+great hindrances of our gaining interest among the Indians."
+
+Captain Southey, in his "Chronological History of the West
+Indies," writing of the events of 1674, says--"Sir Thomas
+Warner's son went with an expedition to suppress the Caribs, who
+were headed by his half-brother, his father's son by a Carib
+woman. He was received in a friendly manner by his relative. In
+the middle of the repast, upon a signal given, the Caribs were
+attacked and all massacred. Different reasons are given for this
+act of atrocity: one, that the Indian Warner committed all the
+ravages upon the English; another, that the murderer was ashamed
+of his Indian relations." Evidently Captain Southey took Dampier
+for his guide in relating this circumstance; and other authors,
+following in the wake, have handed Colonel Warner down to
+posterity, in the character of a fratricide. But before his
+actions are discussed, it would be well to lay aside all
+previously formed opinions, and, horrible as fratricide must
+appear to all, calmly take a retrospect of the great cruelties
+practised by the Caribs on the persons of the English, which led
+to the melancholy incident already narrated.[23] Before
+concluding this subject, it will be necessary to mention some
+further particulars of the Indian Warner, the half-brother, of
+whose death Colonel Philip Warner was made amenable.
+
+At the latter end of 1629, after having the honour of knighthood
+conferred upon him by Charles I., Sir Thomas Warner returned from
+England to St. Christopher's. Soon after his arrival, he entered
+into a league with the French settlers and Mons. D'Esnambuc, the
+captain of a French privateer; and, falling upon the Caribs by
+night, murdered in cold blood one hundred and twenty of the
+men.[24] The females they parted among themselves, and one of the
+handsomest of them fell to the share of Sir Thomas Warner,[25] by
+whom she had a son, a remarkably fine and intelligent lad. About
+the year 1645, when he was fifteen years old,[26] an old Carib
+man, who, by some chance, had remained upon the island after the
+expulsion of his countrymen, informed the boy of the former
+cruelties of the English to his mother's relations--a tale which
+so exasperated him, that he was determined to escape, the first
+opportunity, and join his Carib friends. At length he effected
+his purpose, and fled to Dominica,[27] where the Caribs had taken
+up their abode after being driven from St. Christopher's. So
+pleased were the Indians with this display of spirit on the part
+of their young relative, that they received him with open arms,
+looked upon him as their chief, shared with him all their
+predatory booty, and followed him in all his expeditions. In
+1664, Lord Francis Willoughby appointed this half-Carib (who bore
+the name of Thomas Warner) governor of Dominica, then inhabited
+by Indians. In this situation he remained until 1666, when he was
+captured by the French, and carried prisoner to St.
+Christopher's, (some authors say Guadaloupe,) where he met with
+very harsh treatment, and was not liberated until after the
+peace, and then only at the earnest interposition of Lord William
+Willoughby. After his liberation, he appears to have carried on
+his warfare with the English colonists, until, as already
+mentioned, 1674, when he met his fate in about the forty-fourth
+year of his age.
+
+As perhaps it may be interesting to some of my readers to look
+over the "_Remonstrance_," alluded to as drawn up by the members
+of the Antigua legislature in 1676, when Colonel Philip Warner
+was tried for the murder of his half-brother--I have inserted it
+in the Appendix, (No. 6.)
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[20] The French having entirely ruined Antigua, it was necessary
+to form all new regulations, as at the first settlement of the
+colony.
+
+[21] For a further account of this gentleman's family, see
+Appendix, No. 4.
+
+[22] For copy of the Grant of Land to Colonel P. Warner, see
+Appendix, No. 5.
+
+[23] Oldmixon, in his "British America," says:--"At this time
+(1676) there was a wicked practice in the West Indies, of which
+the English are accused; and that was, their stealing and
+enslaving Indians, which they took on the continent or the
+islands. And one Colonel Warner being charged with this unlawful
+traffic--if it deserves that name--was made a prisoner in
+England, and sent, aboard the Phoenix frigate, to Barbados, to
+take his trial there; but he found so many friends, that he came
+off."
+
+[24] Oldmixon, in his History of St Christopher's, speaking of
+this circumstance, says--"They (the Caribs) were willing enough
+to live peaceably with the Europeans who first landed there, and
+were upon the place when D'Esnambuc came thither; but, upon his
+landing, their boyez, or conjurers, telling them, in a general
+assembly met on purpose, that the foreigners were come to take
+away their country from them, and destroy them root and branch,
+it was resolved to massacre the English." He goes on to state,
+that the English and French, having gained intelligence of the
+Caribs' design to _cut their throats_, "fell upon the most
+factious of the natives by night, killed them, and drove the rest
+out of the island."
+
+[25] Labat mentions seeing this woman at Dominica, and gives the
+following account of her:--"This old savage woman is, I think,
+the oldest creature in the world, being more than a hundred years
+old. They say she had been very handsome, and on account of her
+beauty the English governor at St. Kitts kept her for a
+considerable time. She had a number of children, among which was
+one called _Ouverard_. [_Warner, it ought to be; but Pierre du
+Tertre is not very particular in his orthography of English
+names._] Pierre du Tertre speaks of him in his history; but this
+demi-savage was dead before I came to the West Indies. They
+always continue to call her Madam _Ouverard_. After the English
+sent her to Dominica upon the death of the governor, she was more
+respected for her old age than from being his mistress. Her
+property was rather extensive, and was entirely peopled by her
+children's children. This old woman was entirely naked, and had
+not two dozen hairs upon her head; her skin resembled old
+parchment completely dried up, as if baked. She was so crooked
+that I could not see her features except when she went to drink
+water. She had a good many teeth in her head, and her eyes were
+perfectly clear."
+
+[26] Some writers make it sixteen.
+
+[27] Dampier says St Lucia.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER V.
+
+
+
+  Governor Col. R. Williams--Biographical remarks--Towns of trade
+  appointed--Antigua divided into parishes--Sir Nathaniel Johnson
+  appointed captain-general and governor-in-chief--Colonel
+  Codrington--Remarks upon this family--Invasion of Antigua by a
+  French privateer--Attack upon Guadeloupe by the English--
+  Expedition to St. Christopher's--Gallant conduct of Colonel
+  Williams and Colonel Willoughby Byam--Sir Francis Wheeler's
+  expedition--Wilmot and Lillingston's expedition--Death of the
+  captain-general, General Codrington--Colonel John Yeamans,
+  lieutenant-governor--Arrival of Admiral Benbow.
+
+In 1675, Colonel Rowland Williams was appointed
+lieutenant-governor (or, as the phrase then was, deputy-governor)
+of Antigua. This gentleman was possessed of eminent
+qualifications, which honourably distinguished him among his
+contemporaries. He was alike conspicuous as a wise councillor and
+a skilful commander; whether in the senate or the field, he
+equally merited applause. The father of Colonel Williams (as will
+be seen in the genealogy of this family) was one of the earliest
+settlers in Antigua, and even in those times was famed for noble
+virtues--virtues which have descended from father to son, down to
+the present day, and centered themselves in the person of the
+Hon. Rowland E. Williams, the present possessor of "Claremont,"
+the family mansion.[28]
+
+During the administration of Colonel Rowland Williams as governor
+of Antigua, six towns were appointed as places of trade, instead
+of two, as was the former custom. These towns were Falmouth, St.
+John's, Bridge Town, Carlisle Road, Parham Landing Place, and
+Bermudian Valley. In these different towns all business was to be
+transacted as relates to shipping, &c.; and no vessel was allowed
+to unload or sell their cargo at any other place, under
+punishment of forfeiting their goods. This, however, did not
+debar any freeholder from disposing of his own personal property
+or merchandise at any place in the island he deemed proper.
+
+It does not appear at what particular period a secretary and a
+marshal were appointed; but in 1677 an act was passed relating
+unto such officers.
+
+In 1680, provisions were made for settling the militia, and for
+ensuring a better martial discipline throughout the island.
+
+Antigua was divided into parishes about 1681, which then
+consisted of five--namely, Falmouth, Rendezvous Bay, and part of
+Willoughby Bay, to be the parish of St. Paul's; the remaining
+part of Willoughby Bay, Nonsuch, and Belfast, to be the parish of
+St. Philip's; divisions of New and Old North Sound to be the
+parish of St. Peter's; the divisions of Pope's Head, Dickerson's
+Bay, St. John's, and Five Islands, to be the parish of St.
+John's; and the divisions of the Road and Bermudian Valley to be
+the parish of St. Mary's. Churches were also ordered to be
+erected, and all parochial charges to be raised from the
+inhabitants of each parish. The yearly salary of their ministers
+was 16,000lbs. of sugar or tobacco, which was paid to them on the
+24th day of June, being the feast of St. John the Baptist.
+
+The following year (1682) an expedition was despatched to act
+against the Indians of Dominica.
+
+His Majesty Charles II. having departed this life, Sir William
+Stapleton proclaimed his successor, James II. with great pomp, at
+Nevis. An old writer gives a long account of the ceremonies
+observed upon that day--of the gorgeous festival which succeeded,
+and the splendid attire of the governor; but as this work is
+strictly confined to Antigua, such detail will be superfluous.
+
+In 1684, during the administration of Sir William Stapleton,
+slaves were annexed to freeholds, and could be voted upon, the
+same as a freehold, or levied upon for distress. In illustration
+of this, a person possesses a family of slaves--say the mother
+and five or six children, the youngest in arms and drawing its
+daily nutriment from its parent; the owner of these slaves falls
+into difficulties--he owes a certain sum, and his creditor takes
+out an execution against him. The value of the negro woman
+covers, perhaps, the amount of debt, and accordingly she is
+seized, carried away, and sold, probably to a third or even a
+fourth person, and her baby and other children are severed from
+her, and she left alone. Oh! slavery, slavery, how dost thou
+debase the sons of men!
+
+Sir William Stapleton dying, King James appointed Sir Nathaniel
+Johnson, governor-in-chief, who continued to act as such until
+the first year of the reign of William and Mary, when he retired
+to America, and was succeeded in the government by Colonel
+Christopher Codrington in 1689.[29]
+
+Colonel Codrington was so indefatigable in planting and
+cultivating the sugar-cane in Antigua, that he has been termed
+the patron of the island. This gentleman removed from Barbados to
+Antigua in 1674; when he purchased a large quantity of land, and
+formed the first sugar estate upon the island, and, sending for
+his wife and children, constituted himself one of its earliest
+planters. The Codrington family is of old extraction, and many a
+brave warrior has sprang from that source, as British history
+will shew.[30]
+
+About the first year of Colonel Codrington's government, in 1689,
+the fortifications at Monk Hill were commenced; but they appear
+not to have been carried on with any degree of spirit until 1705.
+This year the crew of a French privateer landed at Five Islands'
+Bay, and burnt and plundered the surrounding country; and carried
+away with them several negroes, besides much spoil. The
+Antiguans, highly incensed at this invasion, placed a small force
+on board an armed vessel under command of Captain Walter
+Hamilton, and pursued the enemy. This plan succeeded, and they
+returned to Antigua with the privateer as a prize; on board of
+which were some Irishmen, who were hung as a warning to others.
+
+The English government was greatly annoyed at these repeated
+attacks upon her West Indian colonies; and William III. made it
+one of his complaints against the French king upon declaring war
+with that monarch. Supposing that, after this war was declared,
+the French would be more active in their incursions, the
+inhabitants of Antigua determined to keep better watch. Sir
+Timothy Thornhill arriving with troops, all military affairs were
+delegated to him; and by his orders, guards were stationed at all
+the bays, and a constant look-out kept. Still the Caribs and a
+few Frenchmen managed to effect a landing, by sailing up some of
+the creeks, and killed ten of the inhabitants, and plundered some
+provision grounds. It was thought proper to appoint some reward
+for soldiers acting valiantly in defence of the island; and to
+make some provision for the wounded, and allowance for the widows
+and children of the slain. If any white servant shewed deeds of
+valour, and could obtain a certificate of such from the hands of
+his officer, that servant was freed,[31] the country paying to
+his master a sum proportionate to his services. If wounded they
+were to receive medical attendance and maintenance free of
+charge; if disabled, to receive yearly 3000lbs. of sugar for
+life; and if killed, their widows were to have the same amount of
+sugar, and the children to be taken care of, and supported by the
+country. The owners of those slaves who fell in defence of the
+country, were also recompensed, by having 5000lbs. of sugar paid
+them from the public stock for every negro killed or mortally
+wounded, instead of having such slaves valued by arbitration, as
+was the plan from the year 1672. Regulations were also gone into
+by the legislature, for the establishing of courts of law, and
+settling due methods for the distribution of justice throughout
+the colony.
+
+About the middle of this year (1689) Colonel Hewetson, with a
+party of men, embarked on board a man of war, and sailed to
+attack Guadaloupe. They landed with but little opposition, and
+having obtained some plunder, and given the French a kind of
+_tit-for-tat_, returned in safety to Antigua. This was a very
+busy year for the Antiguans; for no sooner had Colonel Hewetson
+reached Antigua with his troops, from the late attack, than they
+raised 300 men, and sailed to the island of Marie Galante. Here
+they met with like success in the way of retaliation; beating the
+inhabitants, burning their town, and obtaining more plunder. From
+Marie Galante they proceeded to St. Martin's, where Fortune, that
+usually fickle goddess, did not forsake them; for they not only
+plundered the place and increased their spoils, but drove the
+French completely off the island. Upon their return, General
+Codrington (for the governor had arrived to this rank) sent three
+sloops, with eighty men, under the command of Captain Edward
+Thorn, to the island of Anguila, to bring from thence all the
+English who resided there; they having been very cruelly used by
+some Irishmen, whom the French had landed there, for that
+purpose, a year before.
+
+1690 was again ushered in by that demon--War. Louis, that
+ambitious, but admired monarch, encouraged his subjects to invade
+the English colonies, in the West Indies and America, while he
+assisted James, the abdicated sovereign, in his attempts upon
+England and Ireland. General Codrington was warmly attached to
+the reigning monarchs, William and Mary, and consequently
+endeavoured on all occasions to further their interest in the
+West Indies. No sooner had accounts arrived at Antigua of the
+battle of the Boyne, and William's victory over the French troops
+upon that eventful day, than the governor determined to strike a
+blow for the honour of England. Admiral Wright arriving with a
+strong squadron of men of war, General Codrington prevailed upon
+all the other Leeward Islands to raise forces to endeavour to
+retake St. Kitt's, which had fallen to the French king some time
+before, by the fortunes of war. Antigua, never behind the other
+islands in warlike deeds, raised a body of 400 (or, as some
+authors make it, 800) men, which were placed under the command of
+that gallant officer, Colonel Rowland Williams, and 200 gentlemen
+volunteers, under command of Colonel Willoughby Byam, who served
+as a body-guard to the governor-general, Christopher Codrington;
+and, by dint of prowess, their object was gained, for not only
+did they oblige the French to surrender the island, but,
+according to some authors, actually transported about eighteen
+hundred of them to St. Domingo and Martinique.[32] A general
+council and assembly was held this year, and an agent and
+commissioners appointed for the negotiation and management of the
+affairs of the Leeward Islands, as well as the raising and
+settling a proper fund for the defraying the expense of the same.
+Rewards were also given to the soldiers who acted valiantly in
+the late expedition.
+
+The following year (1691) passed in quietness. The French were
+too much taken up with their European engagements to have much
+force in the West Indies; and Admiral Wright, cruizing about
+these seas, intimidated the few privateers still lurking about.
+It was deemed necessary by the legislature this year to enact a
+law, obliging all the members of the assembly to serve in such
+capacity when elected.
+
+The year 1692 was chiefly passed in settling island business, and
+making laws to redress several grievances which were severely
+felt by the inhabitants. One of these was as follows: after the
+reduction of this island, and its restoration to the English in
+1667, a great many persons pretended to have a right to large
+portions of land, by virtue of grants prior to the war, but which
+they had failed to cultivate. The consequence of this was, that
+the country was rapidly going to ruin; and the only way to avert
+it was, by government granting these lands to more industrious
+persons, as an encouragement to them to settle. When, after a
+lapse of time, the former possessors found their barren and
+uncultivated lands turned into profitable estates, they came
+forward and claimed them as their own; and so annoying were these
+threatenings to those who had worked the change, that although
+they had spent both time and money, they preferred leaving the
+island, and seeking some other home. To rectify this, it was
+determined by the legislature this year, that all persons who
+possessed lands by grants from government should be confirmed in
+the same, providing they had held them for five years. Still,
+that justice might be equally imparted to all, if the former
+possessors put in their claim within two years, and it was
+allowed by a jury that they had a right to the same, they could
+demand the value of their lands as they were when they left them.
+A vestry was this year elected, churchwardens appointed, and a
+parish register ordered to be kept in each of the parishes in the
+island. In this register, all christenings, marriages, and
+burials were to be entered, under penalty of 5l. currency, the
+fee for which was 9d. currency each. An act was also passed for
+the settling of general councils and assemblies.
+
+The next year (1693) was celebrated for the endeavours of the
+Antiguans to destroy the remaining Caribs; and for this reason,
+great encouragement was given to those persons who fitted out
+privateers to destroy them and take their canoes. In the early
+part of the year, Sir Francis Wheeler arrived at Barbados, with
+an expected squadron of English men-of-war, intended for an
+attack upon the island of Martinique, when intelligence was
+immediately despatched to Antigua, in order that General
+Codrington might join him with the Antigua and other Leeward
+Island troops. In this expedition, Sir Francis Wheeler commanded
+the men-of-war, (on board of which were Colonel Foulks and
+Colonel Godwin's regiments of foot, and 200 recruits, under
+command of Colonel Lloyd,) and Colonel Foulks the land forces. On
+the 30th of March, the fleet left Barbados, having on board two
+Barbados' regiments, which, including the gentlemen-volunteers,
+consisted of about 1500 men, and arrived at Martinique on the 1st
+of April.
+
+The fleet anchored in the Cul de Sac Marine, on the south side of
+the island; and Sir Francis Wheeler, attended by Colonel Foulks
+and Colonel Lloyd, went in a boat to search for a good
+landing-place for the troops. Their movements were, however,
+watched by a party of French guards, one of whom fired a musket,
+the shot of which striking Sir Francis upon the breast,
+occasioned a severe contusion. The next morning, Colonel Foulks
+landed 1500 men without opposition; and during the day, the whole
+of the forces were gathered together on shore, where they
+commenced the work of destruction by burning the houses and
+sugar-works, the inhabitants fleeing for safety into the woods.
+
+In the course of the few following days, General Codrington
+joined the expedition with the Antigua and other Leeward Island
+forces, and Colonel Lloyd's regiment, when it was determined, in
+a council of war, to sail and attack St. Pierre, the principal
+town upon the island. Here, however, the English appear to have
+acted a very indifferent part; for, after destroying a few
+plantations, and standing some slight skirmishing with the
+French, they abandoned their plans of endeavouring to take the
+town; and, upon the plea of the troops being sickly, re-embarked
+their men, and left the island. Colonel Foulks, Colonel Godwin,
+Major Abrahall, with some of the other officers, died of their
+wounds on board the vessels; and the Antigua and other island
+troops returned to their respective colonies.
+
+Thus ended an expedition, from which had been expected great
+results. According to an early historian, if the regulars had
+done their duty, as the Antiguan and the other island troops did,
+the whole of the French sugar islands might have been
+dispossessed, for the English forces amounted to between 3000 and
+4000 men. The French were, however, very much alarmed, and many
+of "the richest inhabitants shipped themselves and their valuable
+effects for France, some of whom were intercepted by the
+English." Sir Francis Wheeler then steered for Boston, in
+America, intending to have proceeded against Quebec; but finding
+his arguments overruled by the Bostonians, he returned in disgust
+to England, with his vessels in a very shattered condition, and
+having lost half of his men.
+
+This officer was noted for his misfortunes, which could neither
+be attributed to want of courage nor want of judgment, but to
+circumstances over which he had no control. We have seen how
+unfortunate was his expedition to the West Indies; and although
+not altogether connected with this work, we may just glance at
+his after-fate. About 1694, he was appointed commander-in-chief
+of the Mediterranean squadron, with orders to take under his
+convoy the merchant ships trading to Turkey, Italy, and Spain;
+there to join the Spanish fleet in cruising about until the
+return of the Turkish ships, when he was to accompany them home.
+After receiving these orders, he sailed from the roads of St.
+Helens, off the Isle of Wight, and arrived in safety at Cadiz,
+where, leaving Rear-Admiral Hopson, he proceeded for the
+Mediterranean. In passing through the Bay of Gibraltar, he met
+with very bad weather under a lee-shore. The ground was so foul
+that there was no hold for an anchor; but as there was no other
+plan they could follow, they were obliged to drop them. Several
+of the ships were driven on shore, of which many were entirely
+lost. The Admiral's ship foundered at sea, and with the exception
+of two Moors, all perished in those tideless waters.
+
+In 1694, a general council and assembly was held at Antigua,
+when, among other business, it was deemed necessary to place a
+certain value upon all foreign coins in circulation throughout
+the Leeward Caribbee Islands. To avoid disputes in electing
+members to serve in these general councils and assemblies, it was
+proposed that in future the secretary should take the votes of
+the freeholders upon oath in their presence, and admit no vote
+but from a known freeholder of the respective island in person.
+But if, after these precautions, disputes should still occur, the
+legislature was to determine the cause.
+
+The year 1695 will be long remembered in English history as that
+of the siege of Namur; which action, glorious as it was, would
+not have been mentioned here, did not two gentlemen, well known
+in Antigua, make themselves conspicuous by their courage and
+noble bearing on that occasion. One of these distinguished
+characters was Christopher Codrington, Esq., son of General
+Codrington, the commander-in-chief, and afterwards governor
+himself; a gentleman not only celebrated for his bravery, where
+all were brave, but also as being the most accomplished person of
+his day. The other individual was Sir William Mathew, afterwards
+Captain-General of the Leeward Islands.
+
+While these warlike deeds were going on in Europe, a squadron had
+been sent to the West Indies to protect the trade and harass the
+enemy. This squadron was placed under the joint command of
+Captain Robert Wilmot and Colonel Lillingston, and consisted of
+about 1200 land forces, augmented by troops from Antigua, and
+some other of the West Indian islands. This expedition, like that
+of Sir Francis Wheeler's, proved unfortunate; the sea and land
+officers disagreed, and instead of acting with each other, they
+pursued opposite courses. Their first attempt was against St.
+Domingo; but instead of proceeding to take the capital, Captain
+Wilmot plundered the surrounding country for his own good; and
+although Colonel Lillingston remonstrated with him, he would not
+listen to reason. Finding the ill success of their endeavours,
+the West Indian troops determined to return to their respective
+homes: the Spaniards, who had joined them against their common
+enemy, the French, became disgusted, and withdrew; and the
+commanders themselves, disappointed of their expected captures,
+set sail for England. They lost one of their ships in the Gulf of
+Florida, and Captain Wilmot died on his passage. This year the
+Antiguans lost some of their merchant-ships, as did many of the
+other West India Islands, by their falling into the hands of the
+French privateers, who swarmed about the entrance of the English
+Channel.
+
+The following year passed in quietness in Antigua. The
+secretary's office was appointed as the place where all the
+island laws were to be lodged. Before this period, it appears
+that there was no particular place appointed to keep the public
+records; and consequently many valuable papers became mislaid or
+lost. This year, (1696,) the Hastings frigate was at Antigua, and
+sailed for London as convoy to a fleet of eleven ships, which
+were eleven weeks upon their voyage.
+
+In 1697, public pounds were erected in the several towns of
+Antigua, and imposts laid upon all liquors imported into the
+island. This had been hitherto a custom, but had expired some
+short time before.
+
+The year 1698 was a year of mourning to the Antiguans; their
+friend and patron, as well as governor, breathed his last sigh,
+and exchanged an earthly for a heavenly home. General Codrington
+was, as before remarked, the first person who planted the
+sugar-cane in Antigua: its chief productions before were indigo,
+ginger, and tobacco. He removed from Barbados (of which island he
+was a native) in 1674; and some authors make that year his
+appointment to the governor-generalship of the Leeward Islands,
+and that of Colonel Rowland Williams, deputy-governor of Antigua.
+This assertion is, however, evidently incorrect; for we have
+already seen, that Sir William Stapleton was acting as such at
+that period. The mistake must have arisen from General Codrington
+having removed to Antigua in that year.
+
+After the demise of General Codrington, the captain-general of
+the Leeward Islands, Colonel John Yeamans, a resident proprietor
+of Antigua, exercised the office of governor of the island.
+
+The Antiguans came to the resolution this year (1698) of
+appointing an agent for the island, who was to reside in London,
+and solicit the confirmation of such laws as should from time to
+time be made in Antigua, as well as to transact any other island
+business. The salary then given was 100l. sterling per annum, to
+commence from 1st January, 1689; but since the year 1800, it has
+been augmented. About this period, the notorious Captain Kidd[33]
+paid Antigua a visit; but finding the coast of North America
+would afford him a better harvest, he did not remain long.
+
+In 1699, the gallant Admiral Benbow arrived at Antigua with a
+squadron of men-of-war, having on board Colonel Collingwood's
+regiment, (or, more probably, Col. Whetham's regiment, known as
+the "Enniskillen," or 27th regiment of the line;) part of which
+was intended to be stationed upon the island, and the remainder
+to be sent to the other colonies within the government.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[28] For the Genealogy of the Williams family, see Appendix, No.
+7.
+
+[29] Sir Nathaniel Johnson was appointed, in 1704, Governor of
+Carolina.--Vide History of Carolina.
+
+[30] For further particulars of this family, vide Appendix, No.
+8.
+
+[31] The persons to whom these rewards were given, owed their
+residence in Antigua to the following cause:--To increase the
+white population, great encouragement was given to persons
+importing white protestant men-servants into the island, paying
+to the importer to much per head from the public treasury. These
+white servants were sold for a certain number of years, and at
+the end of that time they became free, and were incited to
+settle, by having small grants of land given to them. Every
+proprietor was obliged to have one of these white servants to so
+many slaves; and they were to be furnished with clothes and arms,
+and to serve in the militia. It was customary to sell them upon
+hogsheads, which I shall have further occasion to mention when I
+come to treat of the white inhabitants.
+
+[32] Extract from the London Gazette, No. 2602, published by
+authority, from Thursday, October 16th, to Monday, October 20th,
+1690, giving an account of the capture of St Christopher's, the
+forces for which service arrived in Frigate Bay, in that island,
+20th June; the French offered to surrender on the 12th July, and
+articles agreed to on the 14th July:--
+
+"Colonel Byam was dangerously wounded in the neck."
+
+Extract from "London Gazette," 4th to 8th September, 1690. No.
+2590:--
+
+                                           "Bermudas, July 24th.
+
+"On the 20th June, the English arrived at St. Christopher's,
+consisting of eleven men of war, besides fire-ships and tenders,
+and other vessels, under command of Captain Wright, who was
+himself in the Mary of 64 guns, and 450 men. These ships had on
+board 3000 land forces--viz., 700 English soldiers, commanded by
+Colonel Holt; 800 Nevis and Barbados soldiers, commanded by Sir
+Timothy Thornhill; 800 Antigua, commanded by Colonel Rowland
+Williams; 400 Montserrat men, commanded by Colonel Blackstone,
+and 200 gentlemen volunteers, commanded by Colonel Willoughby
+Byam, which served as a life guard to Colonel Codrington,
+governor of the Leeward Islands, and general on this expedition.
+The conduct of which forces was much commended in the second
+Gazette from 16th to 20th October."
+
+[33] The colonists of North America had, for the last few years,
+been greatly addicted to piracy: a practice which it behoved the
+English government to put an immediate stop to, if possible. A
+person of the name of Kidd, the owner of a small sloop, and who
+had been early inured to a maritime life, proposed, that if a
+vessel of thirty guns, well manned, was placed under his command,
+he would agree to suppress the pirates, and effectually clear
+those seas from such dangerous frequenters. After some delay, a
+vessel was equipped by private subscription, and Kidd appointed
+to the command; but instead of proceeding upon his mission to the
+American seas, he sailed for the East Indies, where he engaged in
+the unlawful traffic himself, captured some traders, and, after
+burning his own vessel, sailed in the largest of his prize ships
+for the Leeward Islands. After remaining there for a short
+period, he proceeded in his piratical career to the coast of
+North America, where, in his search after wealth, he perpetrated
+those revolting cruelties which have rendered his name infamous,
+and long caused the inhabitants of those colonies to chat around
+their winter's hearth of the deeds and fate of the redoubted
+Captain Kidd, the lawless rover of the seas.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+
+  Governor Colonel Christopher Codrington--Establishment of the
+  first market--Accession of Queen Anne--Arrival of Admiral
+  Benbow--Attack upon the island of Guadaloupe, in conjunction
+  with the Antiguan troops--Bravery of Colonel Edward Byam--
+  Arrival of Captain Hovenden Walker--Second attack upon
+  Guadaloupe--Colonel Codrington quits the government--His death
+  --Sir William Mathew--Hon. John Johnson.
+
+At the period of his father's death, Christopher Codrington,
+Esq., the eldest son of the preceding governor, was in Holland,
+with his sovereign and his army; but upon the news arriving of
+General Codrington's demise, William III. immediately appointed
+Christopher to succeed his late father as Captain-General and
+Commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, in which capacity he
+arrived at Antigua, in the year 1700.
+
+In the same year, regulations were framed by the legislature, to
+further increase the number of white inhabitants, and encourage
+the soldiers who had been lately disbanded, to settle in the
+island, by giving them grants of ten acres of land, and
+authorizing the treasurer to advance to each of them, as a loan,
+the sum of 3l., a barrel of beef, and a cask of flour. Such
+soldiers as were unprovided with grants were to be allowed 6d.
+per day, until the time they were put into possession; and those
+who chose to emigrate from the islands to leeward of Antigua,
+were allowed 12s. for their passage-money. All tavern-keepers,
+owners of sloops, &c., were also obliged to employ white men,
+under a penalty of 30s. for each offence.
+
+In 1702, the first market-place was established, cross streets
+laid out, and the town of St. John's otherwise improved. A clerk
+of the market was appointed, who was also to be the public
+whipper and crier; town-wardens were elected, whose duty was to
+assess houses and lands; and a cage, pillory, stocks,
+whipping-post, and ducking-stool,[34] put up at the public
+expense. Night-watches were also appointed, to have the same
+power as watchmen in London, and a watch-house built in a
+convenient spot. Many of the wharfs were also constructed, and
+other improvements made.
+
+William III. having died the 8th of the preceding March, Queen
+Anne, his successor, was proclaimed at Antigua, in June, 1702,
+with some pomp; as also at Nevis, where the captain-general was
+holding a general council and assembly. Punishments were also
+enacted this year for the offences of slaves, and for the better
+government of free negroes. If a slave struck a white person, and
+in any way hurt or disfigured him, such slave was to have _his
+nose slit_, or _any member cut off_, or to suffer death, at the
+discretion of a justice of peace. Any slaves running away from
+their owners for the space of three months, were also to suffer
+death, have a limb cut off, or be publicly whipped--the treasurer
+paying to the owner 18l. in case of death. If, in pursuit of a
+runaway slave, the parties killed him, they were not liable to
+prosecution.
+
+With regard to free negroes, and _mulattoes_, by which was meant
+all persons of colour, they were obliged to choose a master or a
+mistress to live with, unless they possessed land of their own;
+and if they dared to strike a white servant, they were to be
+severely whipped. No free negro could possess more than eight
+acres of land; nor could any minister marry such person to a
+slave, under a penalty of fifty pounds.
+
+The military affairs were also regulated. The island militia were
+to consist of infantry and carbineers, under one of which all the
+male white inhabitants, from the age of fourteen to sixty-five,
+were to be included. One day in every month was to be set apart
+for the troops to be exercised; and once in a year a grand
+rendezvous was to take place at Boyer's Pasture, in the division
+of North Sound, when prizes were to be distributed to those who
+made the best six shots at a target. The prizes consisted of six
+silver-hilted swords, with belts, valued at 6l. currency. Martial
+law was also ordained to be in full force at any period when
+there were fears of insurrections or invasions. Fines were also
+imposed for various offences, such as absence from parade, &c.
+Privates who could not raise the money, were, in default of
+paying such fines as they had incurred, to be picketed, or _tied
+neck and heels for an hour_.
+
+This year (1702) Admiral Benbow again visited Antigua, and war
+having broken out with France, the captain-general, Colonel
+Christopher Codrington, resolved, in conjunction with that brave
+officer, to make an attack upon Guadaloupe. The merchants of
+Antigua, who were then a numerous body, equipped several
+privateers to serve under the admiral's flag; and the
+captain-general, Colonel Codrington, raised a regiment of
+soldiers, which were placed under the command of Colonel Edward
+Byam. On the 7th March, the land and sea forces were abreast the
+island of Guadaloupe, from whence the French fired at them,
+killing one man, and wounding a boy on board the commodore's
+ship. The fleet laid off and on until the 10th of the same,
+waiting for the "Maidstone" man-of-war, with some other of his
+Majesty's vessels, from Maria Galante, when, upon their arrival,
+Admiral Benbow came to an anchor on the north-west side of the
+island. After burning some plantations along the coast, on the
+12th, Colonel Byam, with his regiment, and a detachment of 200
+men of Colonel Whetham's regiment, landed at "Les Petits
+Habitans," where Colonel Byam distinguished himself by his great
+bravery; and, with the united assistance of the regulars, obliged
+the French to retire. The English next attacked a town called
+"Bogliffe," which, after some resistance, they took, as also the
+Jacobin's church, on which the French had planted ten pieces of
+cannon. After many other successes, among which was taking the
+breast-work along the Jacobin river, the strongest fortifications
+the French possessed, the English proceeded to Basseterre, the
+capital; and this town they, no doubt, would have also taken, had
+it not been for the unhappy differences arising between the
+commanders, and which, combined with the illness of the troops,
+occasioned the English to withdraw from the island at a time when
+victory was almost sure.
+
+After quitting the island of Guadaloupe, the fleet proceeded for
+Antigua; but Admiral Benbow, hearing of the arrival of the French
+admiral with ten ships of the line in these latitudes, went in
+search of them. As it does not appear any of the Antiguan forces
+joined him, we will only briefly remark that, falling in with the
+squadron, a fight commenced, which lasted three days. The last
+twenty-four hours the admiral fought with his single ship, his
+other vessels having deserted him; when, although his leg was
+shattered by a chain-shot, and he had received several other
+wounds, he would not be carried from the deck of his ship, but
+continued fighting until the French were obliged to sheer off.
+
+Benbow was so displeased with the conduct of the captains of his
+different ships, that he determined to steer for Jamaica, and
+upon his arrival to call a court-martial. The most culpable of
+them suffered death, the others were punished in different ways,
+and the admiral himself took their conduct so much to heart, that
+vexation, co-operating with the pain of his wounds, caused his
+death in November of the same year.
+
+About this period (1703), the first sailing packet for the
+conveyance of letters arrived at Antigua. Queen Anne had been
+graciously pleased to establish this packet service for the
+furtherance of trade, as well as to keep up a more regular
+intercourse with the colonies, as may be seen from the annexed
+notification:--
+
+                                 "London, 11th February, 1702-3.
+
+"Whereas her Majesty, for the encouragement of trade and
+commerce, hath thought fit to appoint boats to convey letters and
+packets between Barbados, Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, St.
+Christopher's, and Jamaica in America,--this is to give notice
+that a mail will go from the general post-office, in London, on
+Thursday of this instant (February) for the above-mentioned
+islands, and henceforward on Thursday in every month; and her
+Majesty, pursuant to the statute made in the twelfth year of the
+reign K. Charles II., for establishing a post-office, hath
+directed and empowered the postmaster-general of England to take
+for the post of all such letters and packets that shall be
+conveyed by the said boats between London and any of the
+before-mentioned islands, the rates as follows:--
+                                                     s.  d.
+
+  For every letter not exceeding one sheet of paper, 0   9
+         do.           do.       two sheets   do.    1   6
+  For every packet weighing an ounce . .             2   8"
+
+This year (1703), his Excellency, Christopher Codrington, again
+entered the lists of battle. Sir George Rooke had despatched from
+England at the end of the former year Captain Hovenden Walker
+with six ships of the line and transports, having on board four
+regiments of soldiers for the Leeward Islands, which were to be
+landed at Antigua, and then distributed among the other colonies.
+Upon their arrival at Antigua, Colonel Codrington gave Captain
+Walker such information as determined him to alter his plans, and
+make an attack upon Guadaloupe; so, taking on board the governor
+and a "martial little band" under his command, they proceeded for
+that island. After having razed the fort, burnt the town, and
+ravaged the surrounding country, they re-embarked with
+precipitation, in consequence of a report that a body of 900
+French soldiers had arrived to the succour of the inhabitants.
+Colonel Codrington and his party returned to Antigua; and Captain
+Walker retired to Nevis with his squadron, where, it is said,
+they must have perished by famine had not Admiral Graydon
+fortunately put in there, on his way to Jamaica, and relieved
+them.
+
+Colonel Codrington was recalled from his government in the early
+part of 1704--for what reason I know not, unless it be his
+loyalty and attachment to his deceased sovereign, William III. He
+resided upon his "Betty's Hope" estate, in Antigua, for some
+years afterwards, as a private gentleman, but at length removed
+to Barbados, where he died in 1710; and, in 1716, his remains
+were exhumed, and conveyed to England, and buried in the chapel
+of All Souls', Oxford. Colonel Codrington added to his other
+accomplishments that of a poet--four of his poems being published
+in the _Musae Anglicanae_. He founded a college, by bequest, at
+Barbados, which still bears the name of "Codrington College;" and
+where, since the appointment of a bishop to this diocese, in
+1825, the clergymen who officiate in the West Indian churches,
+are, with the exception of two or three from the English
+universities, ordained.[35]
+
+In 1704, Queen Anne appointed Sir William Mathew, a native of St.
+Kitt's, (who had distinguished himself at the siege of Namur,)
+captain-general, who arrived at Antigua 14th July, the same year.
+His Excellency did not live much more than five months after his
+appointment, dying 4th December; but during that short time, he
+endeared himself to all classes by a kind and courteous
+behaviour, and his strict integrity and honourable actions.[36]
+Upon the decease of Sir William Mathew, the Hon. John Johnson was
+made commander-in-chief for a short time.[37] During his
+administration, measures were taken to provide for the safety of
+the wives and children of those persons who at any time might be
+engaged in fighting for this island, and also for the infirm and
+superannuated, by building small houses within the fortifications
+of Monk's Hill, where they could retire in times of actual
+warfare. This was a very necessary precaution, when the frequent
+landing of the French, attended by the Caribs, and the dreadful
+barbarities which they practised upon the unfortunate creatures
+who fell into their hands, is called to mind. And it was very
+naturally supposed that the men would fight better in the ranks,
+when they knew those who were near and dear to them were in
+comparative safety, than if obliged to leave them unprotected.
+These fortifications had been begun, at considerable expense, in
+the year 1687-8, and although a constant tax upon the country,
+had never been finished; but it was resolved this year to make no
+more delay, but carry on the works with vigour.
+
+This year (1705) a general council and assembly was held at
+Nevis, when an act was passed to regulate such meeting, and
+retain for each island its several laws. In future, the general
+assembly was to consist of five freeholders, elected from each
+respective island within the government. No member was to be sued
+or arrested for debt ten days before or after the sessions; and,
+while serving in general council and assembly, each member was to
+be paid 20s. per day, and their expenses allowed them for going
+from island to island.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[34] "A stool, in which scolds are tied, and _ducked_ under
+water."--Dr. Johnson.
+
+[35] For a genealogy of the Codrington family, see Appendix, No.
+9.
+
+[36] Vide Mathew pedigree, Appendix, No. 10.
+
+[37] This Hon. John Johnson appears to have crept into the
+government with nothing more than a _verbal_ commission from some
+great courtier; and it is said that, in order to gain the
+Antiguans over to his cause, he allowed them to frame and pass
+what acts they pleased. He was an officer in Colonel Thomas
+Whetham's regiment, (the Enniskillen, or 27th regiment of the
+line,) where he held the rank of brevet-colonel. About the year
+1706, after the government had devolved to the captain-general,
+Colonel Parke, Colonel Johnson had a fracas with a Mr. Poxton, a
+native of St Christopher's, which ended fatally to the
+ex-governor, and for which Mr. Poxton was tried for murder, but
+acquitted by a jury of his countrymen.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+
+  Governor Colonel Daniel Parke--His birth-place and parentage--
+  His actions at the battle of Holchet and Blenheim--His arrival
+  at Antigua--Dissensions with the Antiguans--Complaints against
+  him sent to England--Results of the applications at the court
+  of Queen Anne--Tyrannical behaviour of Colonel Parke--Events of
+  the 7th December, 1710--Death of Colonel Parke.
+
+The year 1706 is celebrated in the annals of Antigua as that in
+which that abominable and atrocious governor, Daniel Parke,
+arrived to blast for a time with his unhallowed breath this
+beautiful little island. Parke was an American of rather low
+birth, a tobacco-planter in the state of Virginia, but who
+succeeded in marrying a lady of good fortune, and of a
+respectable family in that province. As money was the only thing
+he cared for in this alliance, he contrived to secure that, and
+then left his wife a prey to sorrow and regret, for having
+sacrificed her peace for a handsome but unworthy man. After
+acting in this inhuman manner to a woman whose only fault was her
+love for him, Parke proceeded to one of the northern states,
+where he committed a crime at a gaming-table, which obliged him
+to fly to England to escape the punishment so justly due. Here he
+purchased an estate, situated near Whitchurch, county of Hants,
+of about 500l. a year, and got himself returned member for that
+borough. He was, however, expelled the House for bribery, and
+ordered to be prosecuted, but through the interference of the
+Earl of Pembroke, he eluded his trial. His next action was to
+form a _liaison_ with a lady, the wife of a captain in the
+Guards; and, to escape the vengeance of the incensed husband, he
+left England, and fled into Holland, where he entered into the
+army as a volunteer, under the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of
+Marlborough.
+
+The Duke of Marlborough appears to have been caught with Mr.
+Parke's insinuating manners and agreeable person, and made him
+one of his aides-de-camp at the battle of Hochet; but having had
+a quarrel with an officer in the Queen's Guards, Parke quitted
+the service a few days previous to the memorable battle of
+Blenheim. He still, however, remained within the precincts of the
+camp until the very day when that decisive action was fought; and
+when victory was about to be declared for the allied army, he
+presented himself before Marlborough, and requested that he might
+be the bearer of a line or two to acquaint the Queen of the
+glorious conquest likely to be achieved. The brave General reined
+up his panting war-horse, and with a heart bounding with
+exultation, and a face flushed with expected success, wrote, with
+a lead pencil, the following brief and soldier-like billet to his
+duchess:--
+
+                                                August 13, 1704.
+
+"I have not time to say more, than to beg of you to present my
+duty to the Queen, and let her majesty know that her army has had
+a glorious victory. Monsieur Tallard and two other generals are
+in my court, and I am following the rest. The bearer, my
+aide-de-camp, Colonel Parke, will give her majesty an account of
+what has passed; I shall do it in a day or two, by another, more
+at large.
+
+                                                  "Marlborough."
+
+At the English court, Colonel Parke gained the patronage of
+Sarah, the haughty but fascinating Duchess of Marlborough;
+through whose interest he became such a favourite with Queen
+Anne, that she presented him with her picture, richly set in
+diamonds, a purse of one thousand guineas, and afterwards made
+him governor and captain-general of Antigua and the rest of the
+Leeward Islands; where he arrived 6th July, 1706, in the squadron
+commanded by Capt. Kerr, and where he gave full scope to his
+licentious disposition.
+
+Upon the first arrival of Colonel Parke, the assembly voted him
+1000l. a year for house-rent, and great satisfaction was
+expressed at his appointment. It was not long, however, before
+this fair prospect of colonial happiness changed; and the
+governor, by his arbitrary behaviour, forfeited all claims to the
+good feeling and respect of the inhabitants. One of the earliest
+offences Colonel Parke gave the Antiguans, was his making a low
+man he brought to the island with him a member of the assembly.
+Being a vulgar man, he delighted in vulgar associates; and
+becoming acquainted with a private named Ayon, belonging to a
+regiment of foot stationed in Antigua, he prevailed upon the
+governor to appoint him provost- marshal. To the remonstrance of
+the Antiguans against this proceeding, Parke replied, he should
+make whom he chose provost-marshal; and that he would never
+appoint any person to that office who did not agree to act
+exactly as he wished, as well as empannel such juries as he
+should direct.
+
+The next act of the governor gave equal displeasure. This was
+calling upon the Codrington family to shew their right to the
+Island of Barbuda,[38] (which had been granted to General
+Codrington by William III.;) and the Antiguans not only felt
+interested in the affairs of him who had been their friend and
+governor, but they supposed Parke would also be calling upon them
+to shew their claim to their estates--an indignity which they
+felt no inclination to put up with.
+
+Another crime of huge magnitude was the seduction of Mrs.
+Chester, the wife of Edward Chester, Esq., one of the most
+opulent of the Antiguan merchants, and a member of the house of
+assembly. Not content with injuring this gentleman in the deepest
+manner by thus robbing him of the affections of his wife, Colonel
+Parke, in his office of governor, proceeded to offer Mr. Chester
+every insult which a little mind was capable of. Upon one
+occasion, the governor had all his cocoa and other merchandise
+seized, on an unfounded suspicion of its being illegally gained;
+and then, supposing that all these several aggravations would
+cause him to be justly disliked, he (Colonel Parke) accused Mr.
+Chester of joining with other disaffected parties, in endeavours
+against his government; and, upon the plea of doing it for the
+establishment of the public peace, he broke into Mr. Chester's
+house one evening, when that gentleman was entertaining a few of
+his friends, who were obnoxious to the governor--and, by the
+assistance of some of his armed sycophants, among whom was the
+provost-marshal, dragged Mr. Chester and his friends to prison.
+In order to give some face to his proceedings, Colonel Parke
+accused other gentlemen of joining in this pretended
+insurrection, and, accordingly, he sent some of his brutal
+partisans to an estate called "Denbows," with orders to take into
+custody Mr. Ffrye and Mr. Cockran, (members of the assembly,) and
+bring them to town to stand their trial upon that charge. While
+the magistrates were taking depositions in this case, Sergeant
+Bowes, a creature of the governor, beat Captain Kallabane (one of
+the witnesses for the defendant) in the open court. For this
+offence the sergeant was broke by his colonel, and ordered to be
+whipped; but when this circumstance came to the ears of the
+governor, he immediately restored Bowes to his rank of sergeant,
+and protected him from all further punishment.
+
+Another source of dissatisfaction, upon the part of the assembly,
+arose from the circumstance of the governor taking the soldiers
+off duty to watch his private property. The following extract,
+taken from a message addressed to his excellency from the members
+of the house of assembly, relates to this subject:--"We always
+conceived her Majesty's troops were sent to do duty on our
+_standing guards_, and not to be altogether employed in guarding
+your excellency's person, your several buildings, your lumber,
+your heaps of bricks, mortar, and pantiles."
+
+It must not be supposed that these were the only complaints
+alleged against Colonel Parke. His whole conduct, both in public
+and private life, was arbitrary in the extreme; and so
+supercilious was his treatment of the magnates of the island,
+that before he had held the government for twelve months,
+articles of impeachment were prepared to be forwarded to England.
+
+In 1707, a petition was drawn up and signed by eighty of the
+principal inhabitants, praying for his recall; a sum of money
+raised in order to defray the expenses of sending Mr. Nevin to
+England, to lay their grievances before her Majesty and council;
+and letters were written to Richard Cary, Esq., the colonial
+agent, calling upon that gentleman to assist them in their
+designs.
+
+While these measures were pursued by the disaffected party, the
+governor, who was not ignorant of these cabals against him, lost
+nothing of his arrogance of manner, which so incensed his
+adversaries, that at length an attempt was made upon his life. As
+he was riding along the high road, leading from St. John's to
+English Harbour, a negro, named "Sandy," fired at him from a
+piece of canes belonging to the plantation of the Honourable Otto
+Baijer,[39] and dangerously wounded him, of which deed Colonel
+Parke accused Mr. Jacob Morgan and some of the other members of
+the assembly, with being the instigators.
+
+About this time, Colonel Parke thought proper to accuse Barry
+Tankard, Esq., (a proprietor of sugar estates in Antigua, and an
+intimate friend of Colonel Codrington,) of caballing against his
+government; and accordingly he despatched his emissaries to the
+estate of that gentleman, with orders to seize his person, and
+bring him into town. Upon their arrival at Mr. Tankard's house,
+they were informed of his absence from home; but doubting the
+truth of this information, they broke open the door of Mrs.
+Tankard's chamber, (who was confined to her bed from severe
+indisposition,) and so alarmed that lady, that for some time her
+life was in danger. This arbitrary behaviour on the part of the
+governor led Barry Tankard to resent it, by calling his
+excellency out in a duel; but Colonel Parke, considering it
+beneath the dignity of the queen's representative to accept the
+challenge of a private gentleman, the matter ended.
+
+While these dissensions were going on in Antigua between the
+governor on the one side, and the members of the assembly and the
+principal inhabitants on the other, Mr. Nevin and Mr. Cary were
+using their best endeavours to get a favourable answer to their
+complaints from the home government. At length, after many
+delays, Mr. Nevin returned to Antigua, bringing with him the
+queen's letter, directing that witnesses should be examined to
+prove the several articles of impeachment sent home against the
+governor, as well as his excellency's answers to the same. "The
+depositions and answers were sworn before Edward Byam, Esq., one
+of the council, and Nathaniel Crump, Esq., speaker of the house
+of assembly, and were ordered to be sealed with the broad seal of
+the island, and forwarded immediately to England." The governor,
+however, refusing to seal the affidavits of the complainants,
+upon the plea that his own answers were not ready, from the
+delays of the justices before whom they were sworn, his opponents
+were obliged to use another seal, and then despatch them, under
+the care of Mr. Nevin, to England.
+
+During the year 1709, Queen Anne recalled Colonel Parke from his
+government, to the great joy of the Antiguans. To this command
+the infatuated man, however, would pay no attention; and,
+exasperated by the triumphant looks of his accusers, which they
+could not, or would not, conceal, he proceeded to measures which
+could be only deemed those of a maddened despot.
+
+The year 1710 was ushered in with no better feeling between the
+governor and the members of the legislature. One of their first
+causes of complaint alleged against his excellency arose from the
+following circumstance:--
+
+It had ever been the privilege of the house of assembly to choose
+their own "clerk;" but during this despotic administration, the
+governor overlooked this, and wished to appoint to that office a
+friend of his own--a Mr. Hinton.[40]
+
+This encroachment upon the assembly's privileges gave rise to a
+great deal of ill feeling, and many acrimonious messages passed
+between his excellency and the members of that body. The
+following paragraph, copied from one of the governor's speeches,
+alludes to this subject:--
+
+"If you still persist that it is your undoubted privilege to
+choose your 'clerk,' and will do no business until that be
+yielded to you, you certainly will have the 'Lords' Committee'
+opinion. It is an undutiful attempt upon her majesty's
+prerogative; and I do assure you, gentlemen, if the queen does
+not appoint any other before I go, I will leave you time enough
+to raise money during this crop to pay off all the public
+debt!"[41]
+
+This unhandsome taunt of the governor's was deeply felt, and
+resented by the "house," who, in reply to it, remarks--
+
+"We cannot but observe how severe and bitter your excellency
+reflects upon, and reproaches our country with, the not paying
+its debt, but compounding the same. We well remember, when the
+country paid your excellency 1000l. in sugar, at 12s. 6d., your
+excellency sold that very sugar for 18s.; so that we hope your
+excellency has but little reason to complain of the public
+compounding their debt."
+
+And then, in reference to a recommendation of the governor's to
+enlarge the provision for the clergymen, they go on to mention--
+
+"Your excellency next recommends to provide a better maintenance
+for the clergy. They are already allowed 100l.; but as we are a
+people so much in debt, as your excellency observes, it cannot be
+expected, during these troublesome times, for us to advance their
+salaries, especially such scandalous persons as too many of the
+present clergy are."
+
+This was only the third meeting of the legislature since the
+election, after a recess of three years; although, from the
+unsettled condition of the West Indies, (arising from the state
+of affairs in Europe, where Marlborough, at the head of the
+British forces, was engaged in frequent skirmishes with the
+French,) the Antiguans were in momentary expectation of an
+invasion. After being prorogued from the 18th of November to the
+27th, (1710,) the legislature again met, but without any better
+feeling between the governor and the members of the assembly. A
+fresh cause of dispute arose, from his excellency having caused a
+Mr. Hill to be sworn in as clerk of the assembly, (in place of
+his former favourite, Mr. Hinton,) but whom the members would not
+recognise; and after a great deal of altercation upon the
+subject, that body addressed the following to the governor:--
+
+"If your excellency's resentment so far prevails as to despise
+these our propositions, and that the public affairs must with us
+still suffer, as unworthy your regard and consideration, we do
+then, as the only and last expedient, humbly propose your
+excellency's visiting some other island of the government;
+thereby to afford us the opportunity and means, in conjunction
+with the lieutenant-governor and council, to provide for the
+public security, to heal our divisions, restore discipline, and
+our broken constitution, after the best manner we can. And we are
+unanimously of opinion, that in case your excellency rejects this
+our humble motion, and will not surcease such administration, as
+afore-mentioned, (which is so very opposite to the nature of our
+constitution, to the opinion of the lieutenant-governor, the
+council, as well as this house, and to the sense of the
+inhabitants in general,) we shall be under the unhappy necessity
+of withdrawing our obedience from you as chief governor, which,
+by your dispensing with her majesty's positive command for
+leaving the government, we shall, in duty to her and justice to
+ourselves, (which we ought long since to have done;) and that
+this her colony, our persons and estates, may no longer be
+exposed to such unhappy conduct and administration, which seems
+entirely--we must say, foully--devoted to the ruin and
+destruction of all."[42]
+
+After receiving this message, the unhappy, infatuated governor
+sent the following to the house:--
+
+"Gentlemen,--You are adjourned until Thursday, the 7th of
+December, then to give myself and council a meeting at the town
+of St. John's, by eight of the clock in the morning.
+
+                       "By command," &c.
+
+Alas, that very morning, the sun arose for the last time to him!
+and by a fearful and unhallowed death, he was sent with all his
+sins upon his head, to render in an account of his stewardship.
+
+The cause which led to this melancholy event was this:--Worn out
+with the proceedings of Colonel Parke, and looking upon him as an
+usurper of the government, the Antiguans threw off all restraint;
+and as the last remedy, determined to arm against, and force him
+to quit the island.
+
+Accordingly, upon the morning of the 7th December, 1710, a large
+body of men, in number about 500, proceeded to Government House,
+in two parties--the one headed by Mr. Piggot, then speaker of the
+house of assembly; the other, by Captain Painter, another member
+of that body. Colonel Parke, who was not ignorant of these
+proceedings against him, had quartered in Government House, some
+time before, the soldiers stationed in the capital; and who,
+along with many of his private friends, (among whom was Mr.
+French, his historian,) had made arrangements for resisting any
+attack upon the governor.
+
+Upon the approach of the armed party, Colonel Parke sent the
+provost-marshal (the man whose appointment to that office had
+given the Antiguans such offence) with a proclamation, ordering
+them to disperse immediately. This they refused to do; but in
+order, if possible, to save an effusion of blood, they despatched
+Nathaniel Crump, Esq., (the former speaker of the assembly,) and
+George Gamble, one of the council, to the governor, desiring him,
+in the name of the inhabitants, to discharge his guards, and quit
+the government, without any further contest. Colonel Parke
+returned for answer, "that neither threats nor fear of death
+should make him do so; for the queen had intrusted him with it."
+Through the delegates, Mr. Crump and Mr. Gamble, he bid the
+assembly "sit at Parham, if they were afraid of the troops at St.
+John's," but consented at the same time to dismiss the soldiers,
+if six of the principal inhabitants would remain with him as
+hostages. As the negotiators considered the proposal of the
+governor's to be far preferable to commencing hostilities, they
+agreed to be two of the hostages, and endeavour by their
+influence to obtain four more from among the assembled multitude.
+Many of their party, upon hearing this proposition of the
+governor's, agreed with them in their opinions, and laid down
+their arms; but the majority of the people, fearful of any
+agreement made with the governor, and thinking that delays might
+induce others of the group to withdraw also, determined to
+commence the attack, and endeavour to secure the person of the
+governor. The two companies, headed by Captain Piggot and Captain
+Painter, immediately drew up before Government House, which they
+saluted with a warm discharge of musketry. This was returned by
+the governor's party; volley succeeded volley from within and
+without; the balls whistled hotly around; until at length the
+assailants burst open the doors, and rushed into the dwelling.
+Captain Piggot fell by the hand of Colonel Parke, at the
+commencement of the affray, although it was the belief of many
+that Ayon, the provost-marshal and _ci-devant_ foot-soldier, came
+behind him and shot him in the back. After some deaths on both
+sides, Colonel Parke, who had retired into his bedroom, received
+a shot in his thigh, which, breaking the bone, disabled him from
+further retreating, and the people rushing upon him, literally
+tore him to pieces while alive. They afterwards burnt down
+Government House, the ruins of which remain to this day a memento
+of his dreadful crimes and fearful punishment. Colonel Parke was
+dragged into the streets by some of his adversaries, where he
+remained for some time, still sensible, but suffering agonies
+impossible to describe, until at length his mutilated body was
+carried to the house of a person named Wright, who lived near to
+the spot, where he shortly expired. His body was deposited in the
+vault of the old church; but so detested was his memory, that the
+people broke down the pew which had been appropriated for him and
+his predecessors.
+
+Some writers maintain that only the _common people_ were
+concerned in the last act of this tragedy; that those of the
+higher rank proceeded to the house of John Yeamans, the
+lieutenant-governor, and quietly laid down their arms. Mr.
+French, the historian of Colonel Parke, writes, however, very
+differently upon this part of the subject; but it ought to be
+taken into consideration, that he was a particular friend of
+Colonel Parke, and consequently might give a higher colouring to
+the melancholy picture. He says, that when Colonel Parke lay in
+the street suffering the pangs of a dismembered body, the members
+of the house of assembly stood round reviling and insulting him
+in his last agonies; that among the number were Andrew Murray,
+Francis Carlisle, Mr. Tomlinson, and Captain Painter. I cannot
+believe this assertion. Although Parke was their common foe,
+still they must have been possessed of those feelings of honour,
+if not humanity, which would forbid them to triumph over a dying
+enemy. Mr. French goes on to state, that it was Colonel Byam who
+was most active in convening the inhabitants, and appointing a
+certain day for them to come into town well armed. This, too, has
+been contradicted. There were not many clergymen then upon the
+island; but among their number, Mr. James Field, rector of St.
+John's, took the part of the people; and Mr. Baxter, rector of
+Parham, that of Colonel Parke.
+
+All writers upon the West Indies mention the crimes and fate of
+Parke; and consequently I am obliged to follow in the wake, or
+else I should have buried his errors--or, more properly speaking,
+his vices--in oblivion.[43]
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[38] Barbuda is a small island, about twenty miles broad, and
+lies twenty-six miles to the north of Antigua. It has belonged to
+the Codrington family from about the year 1691, when William III.
+granted it to General Codrington, then governor-general of the
+Leeward Islands. It raises a great number of horned cattle,
+ponies, donkeys, &c., and its shores are very prolific in turtle
+and various kinds of fish; while its beach is strewed with many
+beautiful shells. Deer, also, range amid its sylvan glades; and
+their flesh occasionally affords another dish at a West Indian
+dinner. The chief emoluments arising from this island, however,
+are the number of wrecks; three or four sometimes occurring in a
+year. The reason of these frequent maritime disasters is, that
+the island lies so low, and is generally encompassed with fogs,
+that vessels are upon the reefs (by which it is almost entirely
+surrounded) before they are aware. It was upon one of this chain
+of reefs, that H. M. S. Woolwich was wrecked.
+
+Barbuda contains about 1500 inhabitants, of which the greater
+part are employed as huntsmen and fishermen: the former make use
+of the lazo to catch the wild horses, &c.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[39] This spot is now appropriated for the Wesleyan
+burial-ground.
+
+[40] The following is an authentic copy of Mr. Hinton's
+commission and warrant, as drawn out in Colonel Parke's own
+handwriting:--
+
+  "By his Excellency Daniel Parke, Esq., Captain-General and
+    Governor-in-Chief in and over all her Majesty's Leeward
+    Caribbee Islands in Antigua.
+
+"I do hereby authorize and appoint you, Gabriel Hinton, of the
+said island aforesaid, to be clerk to the assembly of this
+island, and which is this day appointed to meet; and to receive
+all fees, proffitts, and perquisites thereto belonging, for which
+this shall be your sufficient warrant and commission.
+
+"Given under my hand and seal this twenty-second day of May,
+1710.
+
+                                        (Signed) "Daniel Parke."
+
+[41] At this period, the island had fallen considerably in debt;
+and the legislature not having met for some time, from the
+unhappy differences between them and the governor, they had no
+opportunity of relieving themselves from their burdens; which
+difficulties were pleasing to Colonel Parke, in the hopes of
+their being compelled to make a general compromise.
+
+[42] It may be well to remark, that any peculiarities in the
+diction of the foregoing extracts must be attributed to the time
+in which they were written: they having been copied _verbatim_.
+
+For a list of the members of the house of assembly at this time,
+see Appendix, No. 11.
+
+[43] The last will of Governor Parke will be found in Appendix,
+No. 12.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+
+  Governor Walter Hamilton--Walter Douglas's Disturbances--
+  Complaints against him sent to England--Queen Anne recalls him,
+  and reappoints Walter Hamilton--Lord Viscount Lowther--John
+  Hart--Lord Londonderry--Lord Forbes--Colonel William Crosbie.
+
+After the death of Colonel Parke, the government, of course,
+devolved upon the lieutenant-governor of Antigua, John Yeamans,
+until such time as despatches could be forwarded to Nevis, where
+General Hamilton, who was next in command to the late
+captain-general, (and who had married the widow of Sir William
+Stapleton, a former governor,) was residing. Four of the members
+of the legislature were, accordingly, sent to General Walter
+Hamilton, advising him of the death of Colonel Parke, and
+inviting him to come to Antigua in order to assume the chief
+command. General Hamilton received the party with great urbanity
+and kindness, and accompanied them back to Antigua, where he took
+up his residence, for the time being, with Dr. Mackinnon, one of
+the actors in the late affray.[44]
+
+Upon the intelligence of Colonel Parke's death reaching England,
+Queen Anne was very much incensed against the inhabitants of
+Antigua; but, after hearing the catalogue of Parke's crimes, and
+in order to prevent any further effusion of blood, her majesty
+was graciously pleased to send a general pardon to all that were
+concerned in that transaction.
+
+But although the queen thought proper to extend her clemency to
+the Antiguans, she made some alteration in the affairs of the
+Leeward Island government. General Walter Hamilton was recalled,
+and General Walter Douglas appointed in his room; and John
+Yeamans was removed from the situation of lieutenant-governor of
+Antigua, and that appointment conferred upon Colonel Edward Byam.
+
+During the period General Douglas administered the government, he
+received instructions from England to see an act put into
+execution, which had been passed in the time of Christopher
+Codrington the younger, respecting the ascertainment of the value
+of current coin.
+
+The 24th of June, 1712, Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker again visited
+Antigua with a fleet of seven ships under his command. Soon after
+his departure, M. Copard, the French admiral, with a fleet of
+eight ships and seventeen sloops of war, manned with about 5000
+men, made an attack upon the island; but we find, from despatches
+sent to England by the governor, General Douglas, their attempts
+at landing were frustrated.
+
+General Douglas had scarcely been two years governor before
+complaints against him were also despatched to England, as well
+as a petition from the inhabitants, praying the queen to recall
+him, in which petition their late governor-general, Walter
+Hamilton, joined. General Douglas had made himself so obnoxious,
+that another rebellion had almost occurred. One of his measures
+was to retain certain duties, which ought to have been paid into
+the treasury, (such as duties upon wines and liquors, &c.), for
+his own particular use. He also persecuted General Hamilton, and
+suspended him from all offices he held in the island; and upon
+that gentleman repairing to England to transact some private
+business, Colonel Douglas endeavoured to seize Dr. Mackinnon and
+Chief-Justice Watkins for their proceedings in the affair of
+Colonel Parke, as well as on the plea of another intended
+rebellion. These gentlemen, however, contrived to escape to
+England, where, from advices received from Governor Douglas, they
+were afterwards seized and committed to prison; but, pleading the
+general pardon which her majesty had issued, they were discharged
+without trial, although Ensign Smith, one of the asserted
+culprits, lay in Newgate for some months.
+
+While these rancorous dissensions were going on between the
+governor and the inhabitants, orders were received for him to
+return to England; and, to the joy of the Antiguans, his majesty
+George I. re-appointed General Walter Hamilton to the government
+in 1715. The island was now pretty quiet; the French keeping to
+their own colonies without troubling their neighbours. The
+Antiguans, however, were still very cautious of them; and the few
+persons of that nation who, after the termination of the war,
+came to reside at Antigua, were very coldly received. This year
+(1715) the court of chancery was amended. Hitherto it was held by
+one person, which caused delays, besides other inconveniences: so
+that it was resolved in future it should consist of the governor,
+and not less than five members of the council.
+
+Previous to this period, there was also much difficulty in
+recovering minor debts, owing to the want of good laws, which
+occasioned so much inconvenience to the merchants of Antigua that
+they found it necessary this year (1715) to draw up a petition,
+signed by twenty-six of the most influential members of their
+body, praying for a better settling of the island courts. In
+1711, the attorney-general, Thomas Bretton, Esq., had drawn up an
+act "for establishing a court of queen's bench and common pleas,
+and for the better regulating and settling due methods for the
+administration of justice," with which the council and assembly
+were so well pleased, that they presented him with one hundred
+and forty pounds currency; but which act was so marred in the
+passing of it, that they themselves found it necessary to incur
+further expense by having another drawn up. As, however, this did
+not appear to have the desired effect, in 1715, (after receiving
+the petition from the merchants,) further and more effective
+measures were taken for settling law courts, and limiting a time
+for issuing executions out of the court of chancery.
+
+In 1716, fresh regulations were made respecting the importation
+of white servants. Every owner of slaves, to the number of
+fifteen, was obliged to find a white man to serve in the militia;
+and for every twenty slaves, above fifteen, they were obliged to
+find another white servant. Importers of white Protestant
+servants could demand of the treasurer of the island eighteen
+pounds per head if not sold in twenty days, and further obliged
+the treasurer to receive such servant until sold. The general
+term of servitude was seven years, at the end of which period
+their master was to give them fifty shillings, and 400 pounds of
+sugar or tobacco, with a certificate of their being free. If one
+of these white servants married a free person without the consent
+of their master, that free person was to be fined 100l.; and if
+one servant entertained another for more than twenty-four hours
+at one time, the person so offending was to be publicly whipped,
+or serve the injured party three months; or if the entertainer
+was free, he was to forfeit 20l.
+
+About this time, Governor Hamilton sent a party of settlers,
+under command of a Mr. Howell, from Antigua and the different
+Leeward Islands, to plant a colony upon Crab Island, a small
+island lying between Santa Cruz and Porto Rico.
+
+In the year 1699, the Scottish or Darien Company fitted out two
+large ships with a cargo of articles for traffic, and arms and
+ammunition, intending to form a settlement in America. While on
+their passage, they resolved to call in at Crab Island, and leave
+some of their party there; but upon their arrival, finding a
+large tent erected on the beach, with Danish colours flying, and
+not wishing to have any dispute, they left the island to the
+Danes, and proceeded to the Isthmus of Darien. The Danes having
+given up the colony, the English thought it a good time to put in
+a claim, and accordingly, as before remarked, Governor Hamilton
+sent a party to colonize it.
+
+Improvements were made about this time in the erection of mills
+for the purpose of grinding the sugar cane, and also in the art
+of sugar-boiling, which the Antiguans at that day appear to have
+been deficient in. Oldmixon, speaking of the sugar made in
+Antigua, says,--"It is so black and coarse, that no art could
+fine it; and, as if our sugar bakers in England scorned to put
+dirt in their coppers, it was generally shipped off to Holland
+and Hamburg, where it was sold for 16s., when any other brought
+from 18s. to 19s. per hundred."
+
+In 1620, Lord Viscount Lowther was appointed to the government of
+the Leeward West India Islands, but his appointment was
+afterwards cancelled; and, in 1721, George I. appointed John
+Hart, Esq., former governor of Maryland, to be commander-in-chief
+of the Leeward Islands, who arrived at Antigua about the middle
+of the year. About this time gambling raged to a great extent in
+Antigua, and it was thought necessary to adopt some measures to
+suppress it. It was therefore ordained, in 1723, that, if any
+person won more than seven pounds at one sitting, or within
+twenty-four hours from the time they first commenced playing,
+they were to forfeit treble the value, half of which was to be
+paid into treasury for the purpose of building and repairing
+forts, &c., and the other half to go to the loser. It is strange
+that, much about the same time, this vice was very prevalent in
+England. Indeed, profligacy of all kinds had increased in that
+kingdom to an alarming extent. This was supposed to have arisen
+from the infatuation of the South Sea scheme, which, intoxicating
+the minds of the people with the prospect of imaginary wealth,
+led them into every excess. If any of the Antiguans had joined in
+this infatuation, I am unable to say. I was led into the mention
+of it from the fact of both countries being, at the same period,
+subject to the same kind of vice.
+
+For the last few years the inhabitants of Antigua had been very
+much harassed by a gang of runaway slaves, from various estates,
+who had taken up their abode in some of the mountains and rocky
+parts of the island, and who were in the practice of issuing out
+at night, and committing many and great depredations. The leaders
+of this gang of vagrants were three men, of the name of Africa,
+Papa Will, and Sharper; and, to insure their capture, a reward of
+twenty pounds was offered to any person who should place either
+of them, dead or alive, in the hands of the provost-marshal. If
+any one killed a slave who had been absent from their owner three
+months, while in pursuit of them, he was entitled to the sum of
+three pounds; and when such slave was taken alive, the reward was
+doubled, the owner of any slave so killed being paid his or her
+value from the treasury. If a slave concealed, afforded
+nourishment to, or comforted a runaway, he was to be publicly
+whipped on the bare back with any number of stripes the justice
+of the peace thought proper to order; and if any free person so
+offended, such freeman was to be fined not less than ten pounds
+for the first offence. No person was allowed to purchase goods of
+a slave, under a penalty of thirty pounds for the first offence,
+except such things as pigs, goats, fowls, fish, or ground
+provision, which slaves were allowed to sell; but ginger and
+cotton ranked among the prohibitory articles. For the better
+government of this sable race, it was thought proper by those in
+power to restrict their diversions, and publish a decree, that
+all owners of slaves should allow them three days at Christmas
+for play-days, _and no more_, under a penalty of twenty pounds.
+Many other regulations were made, which appear at this day very
+harsh--such as not allowing slaves to plant cotton, forbidding
+them to assemble in parties of more than ten, punished for
+carrying any kind of weapon, unless in company of a white person,
+&c.; but, at the same time, it was enacted that if any cruelly
+disposed person hurt, or killed a slave, they were liable to the
+same punishment as if the victim had been free; thus setting a
+bright example to the other island, where killing a slave was
+looked upon, in law, as a mere trifle.
+
+In 1725, the parish of St. Peter's was divided into two, making
+Antigua to consist of six parishes, instead of five; the
+separated half of St. Peter's being called St. George. The reason
+of this division was the great extent of the parish, which,
+having only one church and one chapel of ease in it, and those at
+a considerable distance, the parishioners had not an opportunity
+of attending divine worship every week. Nothing of much
+importance occurred during the next two years, except that the
+assembly of Antigua returned thanks to Captain Arthur Delgarno,
+commander of H.M.S. South Sea Castle, for his indefatigable
+exertions in these seas, in keeping away the enemy's ships, and
+protecting the trade of the island: they also voted two hundred
+guineas to purchase a sword to present to the gallant commander,
+as a token of respect. It was by the suggestions of this Captain
+Delgarno, and Captain Cooper, of H.M.S. Lyon, in 1725, that the
+spacious dockyard at English Harbour was first erected.
+
+George I. dying in the month of June, 1727, his son succeeded to
+the vacant throne, under the title of George II. Upon the
+intelligence reaching the ears of the Antiguans, he was
+proclaimed at Antigua with great pomp. An ox was roasted whole,
+and three hogsheads of beer distributed to the poor inhabitants;
+while a splendid entertainment was provided for the governor and
+the gentry of the island, at the public expense.
+
+His majesty George II. having appointed Lord Londonderry[45] to
+succeed John Hart, Esq., in the government of the Leeward
+Islands, that nobleman arrived at Antigua in 1728; but was
+detained off the port, or rather on board his vessel, which was
+anchored in the roadstead for some time, on account of a
+hurricane. About this period, the commander of H. M. S.
+Winchelsea took a pirate vessel, while at anchor near one of the
+small islands with which these seas abound; but the crew escaped,
+with the exception of five persons, who were brought to Antigua,
+and hung. These were Captain Fen, the owner and commander, his
+gunner, and three common sailors.
+
+The first year of Lord Londonderry's administration, it was
+privately recommended to him, by the English government, to lay
+before the legislature of Antigua the necessity of building
+barracks for the accommodation of the regiment of foot stationed
+in the island, or else assign them quarters, by billeting them
+upon the several estates, or in the towns. Hitherto, they were
+scattered all over the country, obtaining shelter wherever they
+could, and consequently, they became very disorganized. It was,
+however, not until the year 1741, that these recommendations were
+carried into effect, when barracks were erected upon Rat Island;
+and, in 1753, additional barracks were built at the head of the
+town. The Antiguans were this year alarmed by a conspiracy among
+the negroes, which, however, appears to have been confined to
+those belonging to a Mr. Crump. As upon trial they were not
+thought worthy of death, it was resolved to banish eight of the
+principal offenders, who were to be sent to Maryland or Virginia,
+or else sold to such persons who would agree to transport them to
+the Spanish coasts, with the proviso that if they returned to
+Antigua, they were immediately to be executed.
+
+A thousand pounds were granted to his excellency Thomas Pitt,
+Earl of Londonderry, this year, in addition to the usual salary;
+and the emoluments arising from a duty of 3s. 6d. per ton, upon
+all vessels clearing from the island, having on board native
+produce, was also settled upon him as long as he continued in the
+government. As, however, the next year, (1729,) transient factors
+were allowed exemptions from the charge of 3s. 6d. per ton, (on
+the ground of their paying 2l. for every 100l. imported,) which
+would tend to decrease the governor's salary, a further sum of a
+thousand pounds was granted to supply all deficiencies. As there
+had been no government house erected since the affair of Colonel
+Parke, the Antiguans renting a house for that purpose, which was
+attended with some disadvantage, Lord Londonderry recommended to
+the council and assembly the necessity of building a government
+house, pointing out at the same time that the want of such an
+accommodation for their governors might thereafter prove
+disadvantageous to the Antiguans. This advice, however, appears
+not to have been followed, for it was not until after 1800, that
+the present government house was erected. The laws of Antigua
+were also this year recommended to be sent to the agent in
+England, to have them printed.
+
+Many other regulations were gone into, tending to the welfare of
+Antigua; and it was also resolved that if any members of the
+council and assembly were absent, and could not give a
+satisfactory cause, such absentees were to forfeit 5l., and were
+sometimes even expelled. During the government of this nobleman,
+a bill passed the two houses of parliament, which had been long
+pending, granting encouragement to the sugar colonies, of which
+Antigua had become one of the most flourishing. Lord Londonderry
+did not live more than a year and a half after his appointment;
+and, upon his demise, the Right Honourable Lord Forbes was
+nominated to the vacant government. The country voted a sum of
+money for his reception, and a house was engaged for him; but,
+after waiting for about six months, and no governor making his
+appearance, it was given up, and the government devolved to
+William Mathew the lieut.-governor. The same year, however,
+Brigadier-general William Crosbie was appointed captain-general;
+but it appears he did not accept the office, or the appointment
+was cancelled by the home government; for in the following year
+he removed to New York, where he became governor.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[44] See further as to the Mackinnons, Appendix, No. 13.
+
+[45] Son to Mr. Pitt; famous for the diamond he brought from the
+East Indies, and which he afterwards sold to the King of France.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+
+  Governor William Mathew--Insurrection of the Negroes--A Legend
+  of the Ravine--Punishment of the Conspirators.
+
+In 1730, William Mathew, Esq., the lieutenant-governor, succeeded
+to this government, vacant by the non-acceptance of Lord Forbes
+and General William Crosbie; and, in the first year of his
+appointment, fresh regulations were made for the payment of such
+slaves as suffered death for crimes, according to the ancient
+custom of the island. The affairs of Fort James were also looked
+into. In 1680, Colonel James Vaughan, of Antigua, had granted to
+his majesty Charles II. and his successors, a certain promontory,
+generally known as St. John's Point, for the purpose of building
+a fort, and for the support of the matrosses. This had been done
+as far as the erection of Fort James; but the other part of the
+land was not used; and consequently, this year, (1730,) it was
+determined that it should be given to the matrosses; only
+reserving a part which might be wanted for the purpose of
+building hospitals or magazines. In 1731, Antigua suffered very
+much from a long drought; when the want of water was so
+excessive, that a pail of that fluid sold for 3s. The following
+year (1732) amendments were made in the court of chancery. By the
+regulations of 1715, this court was made to consist of the
+captain-general or governor-in-chief, and five or more members of
+council; but as his excellency was not always upon the island
+when such courts were held, great delays were occasioned, and it
+was determined that in future the president of Antigua should, in
+the absence of the governor, or lieutenant-governor, preside.
+
+After a temporary absence, the Lieutenant-governor William Mathew
+returned to Antigua in the early part of the year 1733, assuming
+the government as captain-general of the Leeward Islands, and
+presented his additional instructions to the council and
+assembly, directing that body to be no longer restricted, as
+formerly, from making any additional allowance to the salary of
+1200l. per annum, allowed by the home government, namely:--
+"Whereas, it has been represented to us, that the salary of
+1200l. sterling per annum, which we have hitherto thought fit to
+allow out of the duty of four-and-a-half per cent., arising in
+our Leeward Islands, for our governor-in-chief of these islands,
+is not at present sufficient for his support and the dignity of
+that our government, we have taken the same into our
+consideration, and are graciously pleased to permit and allow
+that the respective assemblies of our said islands may, by any
+act or acts, settle upon you such sum or sums, in addition to
+your salary of 1200l. per annum, as they shall think proper; and
+you are hereby allowed to give your assent to any act or acts of
+assembly to that purpose. Provided, such sum or sums be settled
+on you and your successors in that government; at least on you
+during the whole time of your government there, and that the same
+be done by the first respective assemblies of our said island
+after your arrival there."
+
+In accordance with this new arrangement, the council and assembly
+readily granted an annual sum of 1000l. Antigua currency.
+
+In 1734, copper coins were imported from England, and passed at
+about the same rate they do at this day. Bayonets were also
+introduced this year into Antigua, for the use of the militia,
+they having been found to answer so well in the late wars in
+Flanders. These weapons obtained their name from being first
+manufactured at Bayonne, in France.
+
+The events of the year 1736 were such as to strike horror into
+the hearts of all the white inhabitants of Antigua. The negroes,
+who, as we have before seen, attempted an insurrection in 1728,
+attributed their want of success to the fact of their having no
+regular plan; and accordingly they chose one of their tribe, a
+very powerful black man, to be their king; and vowed to render to
+him the strictest homage, and follow his every order. This man,
+whose real name was "Klaas," although his master called him
+Count, was a person of undaunted courage and strong resolve; and,
+was it not on account of the demise of Governor Mathew's son,
+which frustrated their original plan of blowing up government
+house (or at least the house which was hired for the governor at
+Clark's Hill) with gunpowder, the night a grand ball was to be
+given in honour of the anniversary of the king's coronation, no
+doubt Antigua would have been another "Hayti," and "Klaas"
+another "Christophe."
+
+There is still an old tradition, which relates to this melancholy
+subject; and as it may not prove uninteresting to some of my
+readers, I will give it in a newer dress.
+
+                       The Fate of Klaas.
+
+                    A LEGEND OF THE RAVINE.
+
+At a late period in the evening of the 3rd of October, 1736, two
+horsemen might be seen riding slowly along the high road which
+leads from the capital to English Harbour. The eldest of these
+travellers was probably past the meridian of life; but his round
+florid face bore not a mark of care, nor could a single wrinkle
+be detected upon his open forehead. Age, indeed, had tinged his
+hair with grey, and, perhaps, slightly bent his form; but had
+neither depressed his spirits nor robbed his laughing blue eye of
+its lustre. In person he was tall and robust; and although
+jollity was written upon every feature, he possessed at the same
+time that air of determination which would make few wish to
+thwart him in his views, or offer an insult that was sure to be
+resented. The animal he bestrode was of a coal-black, and, like
+his master, bore his years well. Logo, as he was called, had
+often followed the hounds in "merrie England;" and, when his
+master came to take possession of a property in Antigua, his
+faithful steed, the sharer of many a long day's sport, was not to
+be left behind.
+
+The companion of this first-mentioned traveller was, in every
+respect, far different. Scarcely had seventeen summers passed
+over his head; and his slight, but well-formed person, was in
+direct contrast to the large and heavy make of his friend. His
+rich brown locks clustered around his lofty brow unspoiled by
+powder; but in his large dark eye, consumption had lit its fire,
+and flushed, at times, his naturally pale cheek.
+
+"Come, Edward," said the elder traveller, addressing the youth;
+"we must mend our pace, lad: here's Logo champing his bit with
+every mark of anger at being kept with tightened reign: the old
+fellow has too much mettle still left to like this hippopotamus
+trot, when he has an hungry stomach, and the prospect of a
+well-stored stable before him."
+
+"Ay, uncle; and one there is at home, who must be as anxiously
+looking for us, as Logo is for his stable."
+
+"What, Marien? Well, I dare say the girl feels the loss of her
+cousin Edward from the side of her spinet, if she don't her old
+father from his settle in the gallery. Women love those little
+attentions you know so well to offer; and Marien would miss you
+from tuning her lute, or turning the pages of her music book, as
+I should old Logo, were anything to happen to him. Dame Nature
+has made you, boy, to shine in lady's bower, more, I think, than
+in tented field."
+
+The deepest hectic sprang to the face of the youth, as his uncle
+uttered these words, and a half-smothered sigh broke from his
+lips, which, catching the attention of his companion, caused him
+to turn and look ardently at him.
+
+"Nay, dearest Edward, I meant not to distress you; I hope your
+trip to these sunny shores may restore you to stronger health;
+and then you may follow the steps of your brave father, and fight
+your country's battles. But we must not loiter any longer upon
+the road; for, in truth, I like not the appearance of the night,
+and we have no shelter near. I care not for myself, for I have
+weathered too many a storm to shrink from a sprinkling; but you
+are still delicate; and your cousin Marien will scold me for
+having already kept you out in the heavy night dew of this
+climate."
+
+So saying, they gave their steeds the rein, and dashed on,
+throwing the loose pebbles with which the road was strewed, on
+every side.
+
+The night, indeed, was far from promising; the wind blew in
+sudden gusts, and whirled the dead leaves on every side. A low
+moaning sound came from the distant mountains, the sure
+forerunner of a storm; while peals of thunder broke upon the ear.
+The black clouds drifted rapidly along the sky, and several
+meteors gilded the night with their evanescent glories. Suddenly
+a deep silence prevailed, broken only by the sound of the horses'
+feet upon the flinty road, as the benighted travellers struck
+their rowels into the sides of the animals, to urge them to
+greater speed. But this boding silence did not last long; the
+wind again rose with redoubled violence--the thunder rolled in
+awful peals--and a sheet of vivid lightning covered the whole
+face of the heavens; clap followed clap in rapid succession,
+shaking the very earth to its centre; the rain came down in
+torrents, yet still the red-winged lightning struggled through
+it, and kept up its terrific fire.
+
+A moment's pause in the storm gave the elder traveller time to
+exclaim--"Well, Edward, my prognostications have proved true,
+have they not? Poor Marien must indeed feel anxious;" when, just
+at this instant, a dark object issued out of a kind of ravine
+which appeared on one side of the road, and darted across the
+path close to the horses' heads. "What was that?" continued the
+speaker. "Was it man or animal? My glance was so momentary, that
+indeed I know not." "A boy," returned his companion, "an' my eyes
+deceived me, or it was Marien's dumb page." "What! Julio?
+Impossible! What could the boy do abroad in such a night? unless"
+--and the speaker paused; "unless, indeed, Marien sent him forth
+to gain some tidings of us; for although the poor little fellow
+was born deaf and dumb, he has the brightest intellect and
+swiftest foot of any negro I ever knew. I have often promised to
+tell you his story; and as the tempest seems to have worn away a
+little, I may as well give it now, which will tend to make the
+road seem the shorter.
+
+"Julio's mother was the foster-parent of my own Marien, although
+at that period she did not belong to me. But she was a great
+favourite of my wife's, and for that reason we hired her to nurse
+our child; and after my wife's death, I purchased her from her
+old master, who was a friend of mine. Nuno was a very superior
+negress; and was it not on account of her husband, 'Count,' whom
+I pointed out to you the other day as the reputed king of the
+negroes, I do really think she might have been living now. She
+never would say _what_ he did to her, or indeed make any
+complaint against him; but I am certain there was something
+mysterious about it; for when afterwards she was confined with
+Julio, she made it her dying request to me that Count might never
+know the child was his, or the boy be told who his father was.
+This 'Count,' as he is called, although I believe he bears
+another name, made a great deal of talk in the country some few
+years ago. It appears, his master had him severely flogged for a
+trifling offence, and Count ran away; but he afterwards came
+back, and all was forgiven, although his master might have had
+him hung for it, without any loss to himself. There is a law of
+the island, which punishes with death any negro who runs away for
+longer than three months, and the country pays their value to
+their owners. I heard a flying report of an intended insurrection
+of the negroes while we were in town to-day; but for my part, I
+give no credit to it. They have not forgotten the rebellion of
+Crump's negroes yet, and the punishment awarded to the offenders,
+which will keep them quiet, at least for a little time. I have
+heard, that Count was concerned in that affair; but none of the
+culprits mentioned his name; and although, from the character of
+the man, I should not think it unlikely, for the sake of poor
+Juno, I would not accuse him. But to return to Julio. His mother
+died immediately after his birth, and no one but ourselves, and
+his mother's brother, a slave named Cuffee, know who is his
+father. Upon finding the poor child was deaf and dumb, our hearts
+have been drawn the closer to him; and as soon as my affairs are
+arranged in this island, I shall return to England, and intend
+carrying Julio with me."
+
+By this time, the travellers had gained an ascent, and before
+them was spread a cluster of negro-huts, various out-buildings,
+and works of a flourishing estate; while on the top of another
+eminence stood the hospitable mansion of the owner. In a moment,
+all was bustle. "Massa come home!" was shouted from one to
+another, as a party of black boys and men started from their
+slumbers upon the dry trash, and ran to take the horses. After
+seeing Logo properly attended to, the travellers walked to the
+house, where, at an open jalousie, a slight figure, whose
+graceful outline bespoke it Marien's, was seen watching their
+progress. The family party having once more met, and a thousand
+inquiries as to their ride &c. having been made, Marien touched a
+silver bell, and a domestic entering, orders were given to send
+in Julio. "By-the-bye," exclaimed the elder gentleman, "didst
+thou send forth Julio in search of your _absentees_ to-night,
+Marien?"--"No, dearest father; Julio has not left the anteroom
+since dinner, that I am aware of. Anxious as I was to gain
+tidings of you, the night was too inclement to send the poor
+child abroad. But why do you ask that question?"--"Oh! nothing;
+only that our bright-eyed Edward thought he saw him cross the
+road at the ravine down yonder; but I think it must have been a
+dog, or something of the kind. However, to be certain, I
+mentioned it to you." At this moment the door opened, and Julio
+entered. He had, perhaps, attained his eighth year; but from his
+diminutive form, a stranger would have thought him even younger.
+His dress was a kind of white tunic embroidered with crimson, and
+a broad belt of gilded leather, with tassels of bullion, gathered
+it in folds around his slender waist. Smart silk stockings
+encased his legs, and white leather shoes, ornamented with gold,
+graced his little feet. When abroad, a small crimson cap, in
+which was placed a single ostrich feather, reposed upon his head:
+its snowy plume strangely contrasting with his ebon complexion.
+It was Marien's whim to dress her page in this fantastic manner,
+and her indulgent parent never thwarted her in any of her little
+pleasures.
+
+The deficiencies of poor Julio's external faculties did not
+extend to his intellects. The slightest action of Marien's was
+noticed by him, and her every wish gratified, if possible. Did a
+shade pass over her brow, he flew for her lute, or arranged her
+books at the spinet; did a smile illuminate her face, Julio
+jumped for joy. It was his task to gather for her the sweetest
+fruits, and range the tangled copse and dell to cull the fairest
+flowers; and when she walked abroad, he attended the steps of his
+young mistress, and swept from her path every noisome insect.
+Bright were the eyes of Julio, and joyous was the look expressed
+in his dark round face; but on this evening, when, at the summons
+of his mistress, he stood before her, every one was struck with
+the alteration in his appearance. His cheek was blanched to an
+unearthly hue--his eyes, bloodshot and dim, sought the floor;
+while a shudder seemed to run through his frame, as if he saw
+some dreaded form. To the anxious inquiries of the party,
+expressed by significant gestures, the boy only shook his head,
+while a darker shade of sadness passed over his brow. Thinking
+that a slight degree of illness was the cause, Marien kindly
+dismissed him to his repose, in hopes the morrow's dawn would
+restore him to his usual gaiety, and rising from her seat, placed
+in her father's hand a small billet. "A grand ball at Government
+House, eh! to be given in honour of our good king's coronation.
+What say you to that, young people? Wilt thou pay thy devotions
+at the shrine of the laughter-loving muse? No doubt, all the
+beauty and fashion of Antigua will be there. But come, the hour
+is past midnight; and if I keep our Marien up so late, she will
+lose the last of her roses she brought from Old England." So
+saying, the party separated for the night; and the scene changes
+to another spot, at an earlier hour.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+In one of the deepest parts of a ravine grew a variety of tangled
+bushes, which clothed it to its very bottom with their verdant
+foliage. Disrupted rocks were thickly scattered about, over which
+glided the speckled snake, while cricket and frog kept up an
+incessant chirping. About the commencement of the storm already
+described, a dark figure was seen slowly, but firmly descending
+the steep bank of the ravine, whose nearer approach bespoke him a
+son of Ham, one who wore the chain of bondage. In height he
+measured about six feet, while his broad chest and muscular arms
+shewed his Herculean strength. His complexion was of the deepest
+jet, and his large black eye shone with the fierceness of a
+firebrand. A mantle of dark blue cloth was wrapt around his form,
+leaving his arms and legs bare; and his head was bound round with
+a scarlet handkerchief, the ends of which floated in the breeze
+with graceful negligence. In one hand he bore a massive club,
+which assisted his steps in his descent; while the other rested
+upon a horse-pistol, which, heavily loaded, lay hid in the folds
+of his garment. Upon gaining the bottom of the ravine, he looked
+cautiously around; and then, as if satisfied all was right, he
+raised a conch-shell to his lips, and blew a low but clear blast.
+This repeated thrice, he seated himself upon one of the rocks;
+and burying his face in his hands, mused in silence, unmindful of
+the threatening appearance of the heavens. But a few minutes
+passed, when he again started to his feet, and blew a louder
+blast, which at a short interval was answered by a low whistle;
+and the crackling of dry leaves (as if trodden under foot)
+proclaimed the approach of other visitants. Drawing the pistol
+from its confinement, the first occupant of the ravine stepped a
+few paces forward, and, in a voice rendered thick by contending
+passions, demanded the word. "Death to our foes!" was the answer;
+and in another moment, about forty negroes stood around their
+king. "Welcome, brave friends, to this lone spot; for here at
+least we can feel we are free, and bid defiance to the hated
+whites. But where is Morah? Surely she will not desert us,
+Tomboy?" And he directed his looks to a short stout man, who
+ranked as his general, and answered to that name, and who had
+taken up his post at the right shoulder of his sable majesty.
+"Oh, no; Morah knows too well to desert Klaas at his need.
+Believe not that," returned the man. "We should have been here
+long before, but she was knocked up with her walk, and we were
+obliged to wait her will. But see!"--and touching the arm of
+Klaas, he pointed to two lusty youths who were coming down the
+bank, bearing between them some object, which could scarcely be
+pronounced human. Placing their burden safely at the feet of
+Klaas, the young men drew back, while he, giving her his hand,
+raised and placed her upon a rocky seat near himself. The woman,
+(for so she proved,) although looking more like the habitant of
+another world, must have numbered her hundredth year. Her face,
+which had lost its naturally black hue from age and sickness, was
+puckered up in a thousand wrinkles; while her toothless gums were
+seen through her thick open lips. The few hairs which time had
+left her were bleached to a snowy white; but her black eyes had
+lost none of their brightness: they gleamed from beneath her
+overhanging brow with a supernatural ray. Her form was bent
+almost double, and the skin hung about her hands and arms like
+black and shrivelled parchment. An old blanket partly covered her
+attenuated person, which she firmly grasped with her long bony
+fingers; but it afforded her no defence against the inclemency of
+the evening; for she shivered and trembled at every blast. Such
+was Morah, the old Obeah woman,[46] who was hated, yet dreaded,
+by nearly all her tribe.
+
+"Morah," said the leader of the band, after she had rested for a
+few minutes, "Morah, dost thou not know me? hast thou forgot the
+purpose for which we have met? The time is short, remember."
+
+"Oh, no, no! me no forget," said the old crone; "me know you very
+well; you're 'Count,' the negro king, as you call yourself, but
+your massa call you 'Count the Runaway,'" and she laughed
+demoniacally.
+
+"Call me Klaas," shrieked the negro; "oh! call me not Count--the
+name of my servitude--the name those detested whites gave me
+when, torn from all my heart holds dear, and forced into their
+ships, they brought me to this country, and sold me, for a
+miserable pittance, to the man I despise--the man who, for a
+small fault, had me flogged until the blood gushed down my back.
+Yes! flogged _me_, who was born heir to a kingdom, and who
+followed the chase in my own bright land, free as the zephyr
+which kisses its sunny mountains, until the fortunes of war made
+me the despised, degraded slave I am. Call me not 'Count,' I say;
+for every misery I have ever borne is recalled by that hated
+name. Why was it I spurned poor Nuno from me, and embittered her
+after life? Because, in a moment of repose--when the weary toil
+of the day was over--seated before our hut in the bright
+moonbeam, I talked to her of Africa, and of my hopes of soon
+escaping from my degraded state, she raised the demon within me
+by calling me 'Count,' when I had taught her to use no other name
+but 'Klaas;' and thus bringing all my wrongs before me, I vowed
+to sacrifice our child to the gods of my country should its eyes
+ever see the light. Oh, then, call me not 'Count' in this wild
+ravine, where everything breathes an air of freedom, although I
+am obliged to bear it (but not for long, I hope) before the
+abhorred Christians. Oh! call me not 'Count.' unless--" and he
+flung his arms on high, while his eyeballs rolled in fire, and
+every nerve quivered with emotion--"unless you wish to see me,
+like the hunted lante turn on all alike. But enough;"--and by
+strong effort he mastered his turbulent passions, although the
+perspiration flowed from off his forehead in large drops, and his
+breast heaved like the stormy billow;--"I came not here to-night
+to recite my wrongs, or the wrongs of these my comrades; but to
+plan our redemption from them, and the destruction of our
+enemies. To business, then. But first let me ask you, Morah, has
+Obeah given the sign?"
+
+"An' think you me come here to-night had he not?" returned the
+old woman, doggedly; "ay, that he has, and a good sign it is; but
+p'raps you no want white man dead, eh? And again the hag uttered
+her horrible laugh, which seemed still more so in the midst of a
+clap of thunder, while her miserable form looked more unearthly
+in the lightning's flash.
+
+"Death to our foes!" broke from the lips of the leader, which was
+repeated by all the band; and then breaking up the circle in
+which they had been standing, they proceeded to prepare the
+different articles used in their superstitious orgies, under the
+inspection of old Morah, while Klaas and his general, Tomboy,
+conferred apart.
+
+A large hole being dug in the middle of the ravine, and all
+things properly arranged, the king and his companion were called;
+when, joining in a rank around the opening, the mysterious rites
+began. Morah, squatting at one end of the aperture, called upon
+Obeah, under the title of Nzambiampongee, to assist them in the
+extirpation of their foes; and after many a mumbled incantation,
+proceeded to bury in the hole small quantities of gunpowder,
+rusty iron, a little money, and a portion of human hair; while
+Klaas added to the heap by throwing in a few bujis.[47] After
+another incantation was chanted by them all, the hole was
+carefully covered over with black dog-bush,[48] and the earth
+once more thrown in and pressed down. At this moment a
+night-raven screeched, and Morah interpreted it as a kindly sign
+from Obeah; whilst a beautiful speckled snake, gliding over the
+spot, was greeted by Klaas as his country's god. This ceremony
+over, Morah departed, and other business was discussed. Seated
+upon his rustic throne, Klaas issued his mandates to his
+attentive subjects, who, stretched around, looked up to him as
+their presiding divinity.
+
+"In eight days' time," began their king, in a distinct and
+audible tone, "there is to be a ball given by the governor, in
+honour, they say, of their king, and as all our tyrants are
+expected to be present, it has been determined to make that night
+the scene of our grand endeavours, that, at one stroke, shall
+destroy our enemies, and make us once more free. Under yonder
+bushes, where the earth looks fresh, are buried the kegs of
+gunpowder which we have, at various times, been enabled to
+collect; and the night before the ball takes place do you,
+Quashey Coonah, make it your business to remove them carefully up
+to Clark's hill, where Harry, who has been lately hired there,
+will have them placed under the cellar. Frank, I look to you to
+take care of what arms we have procured, and also to distribute
+them. You will also have those bills sharpened--they may prove
+very useful. I make it my duty to fire the train about the time
+the moon rises above the top of yon mountain, while Tomboy will
+lead the party who is to prevent any of the whites escaping.
+Hercules will lay in wait with his band at the entrance of the
+town; so that, when the flames rise high, and the inhabitants
+hasten to give them assistance, he may fall upon them and prevent
+them. I have sent him and Jemmy to meet a large party of negroes
+up to windward to-night, who, no doubt, will aid us with their
+force; and as many of them are in the habit of going out shooting
+for their masters, they may be able to add a little to our stock
+of powder. Ned, do you try and obtain what arms you can; in such
+a cause, any means are fair.
+
+"Ah! that I will, King Klaas; and look what I have brought you
+to-night," and turning round, he drew from its sheath a blade of
+the finest steel; "what say you to Massa Colonel's own good
+sword. He told me to take care of it to-day, after he had done
+looking at it, and to put it carefully up; and so I have, ah!
+ah!" and Ned laughed until the water ran down his cheeks.
+
+"That's right, my fine fellow!" exclaimed Klaas; and taking it
+from the hand of his comrade, he examined, with intense interest,
+its shining surface. After some moments had passed in this
+employment, he replaced it carefully in its sheath, and, with
+something like a sigh, exclaimed,--"Well, I have been driven to
+this. They might have made me their friend, but harshness,
+contempt, and insult, has conspired to render me what I am; and
+for this bright weapon, perhaps the gallant Colonel Morgan has
+often drawn it in a far less worthy cause. But hist! I hear the
+sound of horses' feet, and it is time we part. At the close of
+three more days, meet me here again to receive final orders; till
+then, farewell; and remember our motto--'Death to our foes!'" So
+saying, Klaas rose from his seat, and grasping once more his
+club, prepared to depart. At this moment, however, a slight
+rustle was heard among the brushwood, as if some person was
+retreating, and Klaas, drawing his pistol from his bosom, started
+forward in that direction, followed by the others. "What could it
+be?" was the anxious inquiry, when, after a strict search, no
+object met their view. "What, indeed!" replied their chief; "if
+it was any of our friends, why did they not come forward; but if
+it was a foe--a spy--our plans of vengeance will be defeated, and
+we ourselves dragged to a felon's death;" and he ground his teeth
+at the thought. As nothing else could be done, they once more
+bade good night, and departed to their respective homes, leaving
+Klaas and his general to make one more attempt to discover the
+cause of the noise.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+Six times had the chariot of the sun rolled along the heavens,
+and bright-eyed Phoebus sought his golden couch, since the
+conspirators gathered around their king in that wild and silent
+glen. Among the inhabitants of Antigua nothing was talked of but
+the governor's ball, which was to be upon the grandest scale
+imaginable. Many a young heart beat high at the prospect of its
+gaieties, and many a bright eye grew brighter at the thoughts of
+the conquests to be made on that eventful night. The few shops
+which dealt in European fashions were crowded from morning to
+night with fair visitants, or their _femmes de chambre_; and
+laces and bugles, catgut and tiffany, were in constant demand.
+The busy sempstresses plied their needles with double speed; and
+various were the flounces and furbelows, pinkings and quiltings,
+they invented. In the midst of this bustle and activity, this
+anticipation of joyous festivities, a plaint of distress was
+borne down upon the gale: the governor's best-beloved son--the
+hope and pride of his parents--tossed his fevered head upon the
+couch of sickness; and in a few short hours, that beautiful and
+blooming youth lay a stiffened corse.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+In a large but well-arranged apartment, whose open _jalousies_
+admitted the evening breeze, loaded with the fragrance of the
+Arabian jasmine, were seated three persons. Two out of the group
+ranked under the lofty title of "lords of the creation;" but the
+third was a young and beautiful creature, whose elegant figure
+and flowing ringlets bespoke her one of Nature's fairest flowers.
+Reclining upon a _fauteuil_, she drew from a lute sounds so soft
+and sweet that every sense was held in thraldom; and anon, when
+she joined her liquid voice, and sang of other days, few were
+there who would wish to break the spell. But the spell was
+ordained to be broken--broken in a sudden manner. The door opened
+hastily, and a negro, darting into the middle of the room,
+exclaimed, in a voice of terror--"Massa, me must speak with you!"
+--"What's the matter?" returned our elder acquaintance, rising
+up, "what's the matter, Cuffee? You frightened us by your sudden
+entrance, and sent my Marien's roses back to her heart."--"Beg
+your pardon, massa, and yours, young missis, but me have
+something to tell you make your ears ring again: but, massa,
+where's Julio?--please let him come in." And without waiting for
+an answer, he left the room in search of the boy. "Marien,
+dearest," said her father, "take your cousin's arm, and retire
+for a little, until I have heard what the mad fellow has to say:
+his foolish nonsense has frightened you more than I like to see."
+And fondly pressing his daughter's hand, he led her to the door.
+
+In a few minutes Cuffee returned with the boy Julio, who wore the
+same downcast look as he did on the evening of the storm; and,
+holding the boy by the hand, gave his master the following
+narration. Julio, who, from being deaf and dumb, appeared to
+possess the other senses in a higher degree, had one evening
+observed a strange negro loitering about his master's estate, and
+hiding behind the bushes when any one passed. Thinking this
+peculiar, the dumb boy determined to watch his proceedings, and
+if he discovered anything wrong, to endeavour to acquaint his
+master with it. After spending more than an hour in this
+employment, the stranger departed, and Julio, unable to
+comprehend his motives, and fearful of not being understood, kept
+his discovery to himself. Some weeks had elapsed, and he had
+almost forgotten the circumstance, when, on the evening before
+the storm, he saw the same person lurking about the same spot;
+and, watching him unobserved, perceived he was shortly joined by
+a slave, of the name of Quelch, who, for repeated bad behaviour,
+had been punished by his master a few weeks before. After they
+had consulted for some time together, the stranger pointed in the
+direction of the ravine; and putting his hand under his cloak,
+drew forth a long sharp-pointed knife, which he shewed to his
+companion, giving at the same time a peculiar look. The knife
+being returned to its owner, the negroes parted, leaving Julio
+with the determination of watching Quelch more strictly.
+
+On the next evening, leaving his young mistress engaged with a
+book, the boy left the house with the intention of going to look
+for his master; and, upon gaining the high road, he saw Quelch
+entering an opening on the other side. Following his steps, he
+hid himself among the bushes, and thus became a witness of that
+lawless meeting, where, although he could not hear the words
+uttered, he saw enough to inform him some evil was intended.
+Frightened, and uncertain how to tell his discovery, his first
+care was to reach home; and, harassed in mind and body, the poor
+child stood before his mistress in the manner described. The next
+morning, he sought his uncle Cuffee, and, by significant gestures
+and passionate mutterings, at length made him understand the
+above relation. Cuffee's first care was to inform a friend of his
+of the name of Robin, and these two negroes watched the ravine
+every night in hopes of discovering what poor Julio could not
+inform them--the names of the conspirators. All, however,
+remained silent: the ravine had no occupants: and Robin and
+Cuffee were almost inclined to think they had misunderstood the
+boy, when, one evening, just as they had gained their accustomed
+post, they thought they heard the sound of voices; and, creeping
+upon their hands and knees, espied the whole band, with Klaas,
+or, as they called him, "Count," at their head, plotting their
+dreadful schemes. Knowing that this negro king was the father of
+Julio, Cuffee liked not to inform against him; and the next
+morning bringing intelligence of the death of the governor's son,
+and consequently the prorogation of the ball, he was in hopes the
+negroes would get disheartened at the failure of their plans, and
+forego their horrible intentions. Still he determined to keep an
+eye upon their movements; and a few weeks after, through the
+medium of another slave, named Manuel, he discovered that the
+conspirators intended to put their designs into execution on the
+15th of December; and that they were to have a final meeting in
+the ravine, to receive orders from their king.
+
+These were the tidings Cuffee conveyed to his master's ear--
+tidings which made his stout heart beat faster, and caused a
+shade of care, for once, to cross his brow. The time was short:
+the next night was the one on which the negroes were to meet, and
+Mr. ------, after leaving a kind message to his daughter, to
+excuse his absence, started immediately for the capital,
+accompanied by Robin and Cuffee, to lay the information before
+the proper authorities.
+
+                           * * * * *
+
+The evening was calm. There was no moon, but the stars shone
+bright, and, by their refulgence, parties of men were seen
+walking cautiously along in the same direction. Every now and
+then they stopped as if to listen, and then proceeded again, as
+no sound met their ear. Leaving the high road, they struck across
+a wild and sterile plain, until, arriving at the bank of a kind
+of rocky defile, where the sable conspirators held their
+nocturnal meetings, they separated; and taking up their position
+on all sides, and holding their very breath, they presented more
+the appearance of marble statues than living men. After remaining
+in this situation for some time, a noise was heard as the tramp
+of a body of horse passing over a flinty road--no uncommon
+occurrence at that period. The sound came nearer and nearer, and
+presently a large band of soldiers appeared in sight, led by a
+middle-aged officer, and accompanied by several gentlemen. Riding
+for a short distance past the ravine, the word was given, "Halt!"
+and in a moment the horses stood motionless. "Dismount!" broke
+from the lips of the commander, and the men, all heavily armed,
+sprang to the ground. Walking quickly forward, they joined the
+watchers around the ravine, while their leader, followed by many
+others, bounded down the bank, and exclaimed, in a stentorian
+tone, "Surrender! or you are dead men." All was confusion among
+the assembled conspirators. Hemmed in on all sides, and daunted
+by the gleaming arms and pointed muskets of the soldiers, who
+came so silently but surely upon them, the negro band were driven
+to despair. Klaas alone maintained his firmness, and shouted in a
+voice of thunder, "Fire the gunpowder, lads, fire the gunpowder,
+and let us die as brave men, and not as cowards. Who will mourn
+the fate which will be shared by our hated tyrants!" But this was
+not to be. Overpowered by numbers, their arms tightly pinioned
+behind them, their mouths gagged, and held between two soldiers,
+negro after negro was marched off--the ravine was left to its
+usual silence--and the reign of "Klaas," the "Slave King," was
+over.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+So ends the legend. The conspirators being conveyed to the
+capital, various were the punishments awarded them. Klaas, or, as
+he was more generally called, "Count," Tomboy, and Hercules were
+broken alive upon the wheel. In their last moments their
+fortitude did not forsake them; and their last words expressed
+their hatred to the whites. Some were gibbeted alive in a place
+called Green's Bay. Frank, who belonged to E. Chester, Esq., and
+several more, were burned in Otto's pasture, at the outskirts of
+the capital; and the rest, who were looked upon as the dupes of
+their reputed king, were transported to the Spanish coasts.
+Quelch was pardoned: he played the traitor's part, and amused the
+ear of Klaas and his comrades with some chimerical scheme while
+the soldiers passed by who accomplished their destruction; and
+old Morah, the Obeah woman who attended their meetings, escaped
+punishment by falling a prey to death before her trial. So signal
+was the victory obtained, and so severe the punishment of the
+conspirators, that the remaining slaves became intimidated, and
+quietly bore their yoke without seeking for deliverance. In 1739,
+the country emancipated Cuffee and Robin for their discovery of
+this insurrection, paying to their masters their respective
+value, and presented Manuel with a reward for his services in
+that affair.[49]
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[46] A dealer in necromancy.
+
+[47] A small white shell, about the size and shape of an olive,
+used as the general currency in Guinea.
+
+[48] A wild shrub, supposed to be of great use in witchcraft.
+
+[49] For some further particulars, see Appendix, No. 14.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER X.
+
+
+
+  Governor William Mathew--Sir George Thomas, Bart.--James
+  Verchild--Honourable William Woodley--Sir Ralph Payne--Hon.
+  Craister Greathead--General Burt--The circumstances of his
+  death--Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart.
+
+After the suppression of the insurrection related in the last
+chapter, it was resolved in future to keep a better watch over
+the negroes, and be more strict in the government of them. Slaves
+were not to be allowed to congregate about the streets of St.
+John's; and if they refused to disperse, when ordered to do so,
+it was justifiable to fire upon them: the country paying for
+those who were shot. If any of the negroes were suspected of
+treasonable practices, conspiracies, or insurrections, they were
+to suffer torture, not extending to death; but in case any of
+them died under the pain of having a limb cut off, &c., the owner
+of such slaves received the value of them from the public
+treasury.
+
+The inhabitants appear to have been quite alarmed at the state of
+affairs, particularly as there were but few white people still
+upon the island compared with the negroes. In 1740-1, it was
+again taken into consideration how to increase the number; and
+after some deliberation, it was determined to give further
+encouragement for the importation of white servants, by adding a
+bounty of 40s. to that already given. It was also ordained, that
+every owner or renter of slaves should, for every thirty negroes,
+have a white man in his employ, under a penalty of 20l. for each,
+according to the number of slaves. This gave rise to the custom
+of building "free tenancies," which were houses given to white
+persons to reside in, without receiving rent for the same; and by
+this means, the proprietor escaped the obligation which the law
+enforced of employing so many white servants or overseers.
+
+In 1741, Rat Island, as it is called, although in reality a
+promontory, was purchased by the country, and barracks and
+fortifications erected thereon. War having broken out between
+England and France, the Antiguans suffered very much in their
+commerce. Commodore Lee had been sent out to protect the trade,
+but, it appears, he did not act like a British officer; for when
+stationed off Antigua, he allowed a French fleet of merchantmen
+and their convoy to pass his vessels without molestation, and
+actually captured some of the Antigua coasters. In 1747,
+complaints against him were sent home, and Commodore Legge was
+despatched to Antigua, with full power to try the case. The
+Antiguans were obliged this year to purchase and maintain a
+vessel to protect their small crafts, so harassed were they by
+the French privateers.
+
+The lieutenant-governor of Antigua, Colonel George Lucas, died
+this year, (1747,) at Brest, where he was detained prisoner,
+having been taken by a French vessel of war, on his way to
+England the year before. The following year, (1748,) a petition
+was sent home, praying his majesty for satisfaction for the
+injury suffered by the incursions of the French. About this
+period, the court-house was commenced to be built, on the spot
+where the market used to be held. Hitherto a house was rented for
+that purpose, which was found to be very inconvenient, for many
+reasons; and as there was no particular place appointed for the
+offices of the secretary or provost-marshal, it was found
+expedient to erect such building as soon as possible, and
+appropriate a part of it for those offices.
+
+In 1752, George Thomas, Esq., succeeded his excellency William
+Mathew, Esq., in the government of Antigua, and the rest of the
+Leeward Islands, as captain-general. The following year (1753) a
+fund was raised to purchase land, for the purpose of building
+additional barracks for the accommodation of the regiment of foot
+stationed in Antigua, and also building a guard-house in the town
+of St. John's. In the same year, an additional support for his
+excellency, George Thomas, was appointed to be paid to him during
+his government. The erection of a new church at Parham was
+commenced in 1755; a yearly tax having been imposed upon the
+inhabitants, for the expense of the erection, and for keeping it
+afterwards repaired. This year, too, it was found, that the white
+inhabitants had so materially decreased in number,
+notwithstanding strenuous measures had been taken since 1716 to
+encourage the importation of them, that it was thought necessary
+to offer further inducements to white persons to emigrate from
+England to this colony. In order that this object should be more
+fully carried out, heavier penalties were also this year enforced
+upon proprietors and renters of negroes, if they neglected to
+have in their employ a white Protestant person for every thirty
+slaves; for many owners had evaded the law, by paying the
+penalty, rather than be obliged to maintain a white servant. The
+number of white inhabitants at this period was but little more
+than 3000, while the negroes amounted to about 32,000. In 1757, a
+portion of land was appropriated for building a house for the
+accommodation of the train of artillery in the town of St.
+John's.
+
+In 1758, the French threatened an invasion of Antigua. War had
+broken out between England, and France; and, as was always the
+case in such times, the French began to plague their English
+neighbours in the West Indies. The Antiguans, hearing of their
+intentions, hastily equipped several privateers to cruise about
+the island, which were fortunate enough to take some prizes, and
+intimidate the French. It was found by experience, that these
+privateers injured the French more in their commerce than even
+the men-of-war; and for this reason, the country gave great
+encouragement to the fitters-out of such vessels.
+
+The following year, (1759,) Commodore Moore commanded the Leeward
+Island station, and the brave Captain Tyrrel was ordered to
+protect the island of Antigua. This gentleman, whose courage and
+activity were equal to his conduct and circumspection, had, early
+in the month of March previous, demolished a fort at Martinique,
+and destroyed four privateers riding under its protection. On his
+return to Antigua, he discovered a large fleet of the enemy's;
+and giving immediate chase, attended by the "Weazle" man-of-war,
+he quickly came up with them, and after a desperate fight,
+scattered and dispersed them. Capt. Tyrrel was wounded in the
+face, and lost three of the fingers of his right hand. This year,
+too, the island of Guadaloupe was taken by the English; and the
+Antiguans (on the faith of a proclamation issued by the governor,
+pledging the country to pay the value of such slaves as might be
+killed or desert) sent a large complement of negroes to act as
+pioneers, and assist in drawing the artillery. During the next
+year, several prizes were taken by the Antigua privateers; and
+Captain O'Brien, of H. M. S. "Griffen," assisted by Captain
+Taylor of the "Temple," took three large vessels off Antigua, and
+brought them into English Harbour.
+
+The year 1760 is celebrated for the introduction of methodism
+into Antigua, by a Mr. Gilbert, which, from a very small
+beginning, has overspread the whole island, and proved of
+infinite value to the inhabitants. In 1761, assurance was
+prohibited on all French vessels and merchandise; and also all
+vessels trading to France, or the French colonies, during the
+war. During this year regulations were made respecting the
+manumission of slaves. Antigua certainly set a bright example to
+the other islands, in days of slavery, of never withholding from
+its negroes _that_ privilege. The following year, 1762, the
+necessity of having the laws of the island printed was again
+brought before the council and assembly, which was unanimously
+agreed to. The same year Antigua again supplied a complement of
+strong negroes, to serve as pioneers, &c., under the command of
+the Right Honourable the Earl of Albemarle, in an intended
+expedition against Martinique. The year 1765 was the last that
+Sir George Thomas continued in the government of the Leeward
+Caribbee Islands.[50]
+
+James Verchild, Esq., was appointed to succeed Sir George Thomas
+in the government in 1766; and during that year harbour-masters
+were appointed. Antigua still appearing deficient in white
+inhabitants, in 1767 further regulations were made, which would,
+it was hoped, tend to increase the number, and retain in the
+island many families who were upon the point of leaving it. The
+cause of these persons emigrating, it appears, was on account of
+their not being allowed to reckon the female members of their
+family, in the place of a white servant to so many slaves, as the
+law required, as was the case in Jamaica and St. Vincent's; it
+was therefore deemed expedient this year to give way in this
+respect, and permit two women to count as one man.
+
+In 1768, William Woodley, Esq., was appointed commander-in-chief
+of Antigua, and the other Leeward Caribbee Islands. During his
+administration, a dreadful fire broke out in the town of St.
+John's, which did great damage, but of which a further account
+will be given in another part of this work. Large sums of money
+were granted, and a collection made for the sufferers at
+Liverpool. Precautions were afterwards taken, by regulating
+certain buildings about the capital; but unfortunately those wise
+regulations have long since fallen into disuse. In 1769, the snow
+"Rodney" put into Antigua, in distress. She had been despatched
+from England with convicts, who were to be employed in the State
+of Maryland, but meeting first with bad weather, and afterwards
+long calms, all their provisions were consumed; and when they
+fortunately made Antigua, eleven of the convicts had died from
+starvation, and the survivors had eaten their very shoes.
+
+In 1771, Sir Ralph Payne, K.G., succeeded to the government. His
+excellency was a native of St. Kitts, and was esteemed for many
+qualities. The Antiguans were quite pleased with his nomination,
+supposing he would have the interests of these colonies greatly
+at heart. The first year of his administration the common gaol
+was rebuilt, which had been burnt down in the late fire; and a
+portion of land, contiguous to it, purchased for the purpose of
+enlarging that part appropriated for the use of the debtors. The
+year 1771 is celebrated as that in which the "Sugar Ants" first
+made their appearance in Antigua. They were supposed to have made
+their way from Dominica to this island; and, minute as they are,
+they proved a most formidable enemy, by destroying an immense
+quantity of sugar-canes. This year also marks the appointment of
+Sir George Pownall to the situation of provostmaster-general of
+the Leeward Islands, under letters patent, dated 7th June, in the
+eleventh year of the reign of his majesty George III. This grant
+had been made to the father of Sir George, after the death of the
+former patentee, Mr. Richard Phelps--"to be held with all fees,
+rights, profits, privileges, and advantages," for the lives of
+Mr. Pownall, and his two sons, Sir George Pownall, and Mr. John
+Lillington Pownall.
+
+In 1772, Antigua suffered very much from the effects of a
+hurricane; great damage was done to the shipping both in St.
+John's Harbour, and also in English Harbour. The "Chatham,"
+commanded by Admiral Parry, the "Seahorse," and some other
+vessels of his majesty's service, were driven on shore, and
+several merchantmen were sunk. In 1774, Sir Ralph Payne was
+ordered home, much against the wish of the Antiguans; and a
+petition was forwarded to England praying his majesty to
+re-appoint him.
+
+Craister Greathead, Esq., another West Indian, succeeded Sir
+Ralph Payne as commander-in-chief in 1775, but he appears to have
+given St. Kitts the preference, principally residing in that
+island. Nothing of importance occurred during his administration;
+happily for the Antiguans, war was principally confined to
+another quarter, which gave them a little time to look about
+them, and redress their domestic grievances.
+
+In 1777, General William Mathew Burt was appointed to the
+government, and a suitable residence prepared for his reception.
+The following year, war, blood-stained war, unfurled his red
+banner in these "gems of the sea"--these beautiful West Indian
+islands. On all sides of Antigua did the battle rage; island
+after island surrendered either to French or English prowess; and
+the fears of the Antiguans were raised for the safety of their
+little domicile. Nor was war alone the only impending evil she
+had to dread; the heavens withheld their bounty, and the country
+fainted beneath a burning sun; famine, it was supposed, would be
+the result, and had it not been for the interposition of his
+gracious majesty George III., by advancing 20,000l. sterling to
+procure subsistence for the negroes, their fears would have
+proved too true. Yet although this kind loan to the country
+averted much evil, the series of calamities they had already
+suffered caused so much sickness, that in the course of the next
+year, 1780, it was the opinion of Dr. Samuel Athill that upwards
+of eight thousand negroes died.
+
+In 1778, fresh regulations were made for the better government of
+slaves, and for establishing certain days, viz.--the whole time
+from sunset on Christmas-eve, to sunrise of the 28th of December,
+as their holidays. No other days were to be allowed the slaves by
+their owners in place of those specified; and no slave-holder
+could refuse to allow them such holidays, under a penalty of
+100l.: one-half of the fine to go to the informer, the other half
+to the public treasury--during these holidays martial law was to
+be in force.
+
+About this period Lord Rodney took command of the fleet which was
+stationed in these seas, and was fortunate enough to beat off the
+French, and thus spare the Antiguans the horrors of an invasion,
+which was but too successful at St. Kitts. The name of this
+gallant officer is still remembered with gratitude and affection
+by West Indians; and not many years ago, the stranger who visited
+Barbados was highly entertained with an old black woman, who
+passed by the title of "Lady Rodney," and who wore upon her dark
+fat arm a picture of the Admiral, which he gave her at parting.
+But alas! like the noble lord, she has passed to another world,
+and no longer do the young _midds_ of her majesty's service, who
+visit Barbados, recognise her shrill cry of "hab best guaba fine
+pine, and hot ginger drink for noung buckru me lob."
+
+The fortifications of Goat Hill, and Great George Fort, at
+Barnacle Point, were completed during the administration of
+General Burt, as well as several other forts, which were very
+necessary in this season of warfare. About this period slaves
+were forbidden to vend sugar, rum, molasses, or sugar canes,
+besides many other articles.
+
+The circumstances attending the death of Governor Burt were very
+extraordinary. Upon a certain day his excellency honoured a
+gentleman of the island with his company to dinner, and during
+the repast he was as gay as any at that festive board. Soon after
+the cloth was withdrawn, when the laughing wine sparkled in the
+crystal chalice, and, surrounded by all the good things of this
+world, the convivial party threw off all cares, they were
+surprised to hear the governor call to his servant to bring his
+sword, which he always carried abroad with him. Wondering at this
+command, yet too well bred to make inquiries, the company waited
+in silence until the order was performed. The sword was brought
+and handed to the governor; when, unsheathing it in an instant,
+he exclaimed, in a loud voice--"Tell that fellow to quit the back
+of my chair, or I will run him through!" The company were more
+amazed than ever. What could the governor mean? no one was behind
+his chair; no one was in the room but themselves and the
+domestics. Uncertain what to do or say, they still remained
+silent; when the governor repeated, in a still louder tone, "Send
+away that man, or I will run him through!" It was represented to
+his excellency that he laboured under a mistake, that no one was
+behind his chair; but it was of no avail, all that could be got
+from him was, "Send away that man, or I will run him through!" In
+this state he was carried home, and every art tried to restore
+him to his proper senses; but all was of no avail, he never
+recovered the shock; and in a short time after he fell a prey to
+that insatiable monster, Death, who so justly says--
+
+   "I visit the halls of the great and gay,
+    And snatch them from all their delight away;
+    I rest at the villager's humble door,
+    For welcome alike are the rich and the poor."
+
+It has been said that the governor was poisoned, and that the
+mixture, or whatever other form it was administered in, was so
+prepared as to have the effects of unsettling his reason; but
+possibly it was a case of _delirium tremens_, without the
+assistance of any deleterious drug or herb.
+
+This circumstance is related in a different manner; and as I am
+not aware which is the most correct, will lay them both before my
+readers, that they may judge for themselves. General Burt, it is
+said, was dining at a party at "Pensive Hall," (the name of the
+great house upon Martin Byam's estate, now belonging to Messrs.
+Shands, of Liverpool, England,) when he saw an apparition, which
+informed him, that ere twelve moons had waxed and waned, this
+mandate should be issued to him--"Thou shalt die and not live!"
+He related the circumstance to the party, and expressed his firm
+belief in it. His friends removed him to the Great House upon
+Weir's estate, (the present seat of Francis Byam Ottly, Esq.,)
+and by convivial parties, strove to overcome his melancholy
+forebodings; but all was of no effect. He finally sailed for
+England, and died upon his passage, the _very day twelve months_
+he saw the apparition.
+
+After the death of General Burt, in 1781, Major-General Sir
+Thomas Shirley, Bart., was appointed to the office of
+commander-in-chief. No events of importance marked the first year
+of his government, except that the gallant Admiral Vernon
+obtained a complete victory over the French fleet, between this
+island and Guadaloupe, and followed up his success by many other
+naval conquests. General Prescott, commander of the 69th
+regiment, and the Antiguan troops, landed at St. Kitt's, and
+drove the enemy before them with great slaughter.
+
+In 1782, St. John's again suffered severely from a destructive
+fire, which broke out in one of the most densely-populated parts
+of the town. It was this disaster which gave rise to the
+establishment of the "Friendly Fire Company," every member of
+which pledged himself to keep in good order a certain number of
+buckets; as also to practise themselves in the use of their
+engines. Soon after the formation of this society, the "Phoenix
+Fire Office," in Lombard-street, London, sent out proposals for
+insurance--the first which were ever made in Antigua, and for
+many years, that office was the only one which would grant
+security upon West Indian property.
+
+In 1784, it was resolved to make some alterations in the oaths
+required of white servants. Prior to this year, they were obliged
+to swear to their being Protestants, as well as take the oaths of
+allegiance; from which cause many quiet and useful persons were
+debarred from receiving the rewards held out to other white
+emigrants, on account of their not being nurtured in the
+Protestant religion. It was therefore enacted that no other oaths
+should be required but those of allegiance to the reigning
+monarch and his successors. A nightly watch was also established
+in the town of St. John's, and a tax levied upon the inhabitants
+to defray the expenses of it. It was in this year, also, that it
+was contemplated to allow slaves a trial by jury; but it does not
+appear to have been carried into effect until 1798. The former
+method of trying these sable defaulters was to bring them before
+a justice of the peace, and if his worship considered the offence
+worthy of the highest punishment, he called to his aid a
+fellow-justice, and between them they condemned the culprit to
+death, causing such sentence to be immediately executed.
+
+Regulations were again very judiciously made for the better
+erection of kitchens, blacksmiths' shops, bakeries, &c., in order
+to prevent, as far as possible, the repetition of those fatal
+fires which had so lately devastated great part of the capital.
+Such buildings erected within the precincts of St. John's were,
+in future, to be constructed of stone or brick, and the roofs to
+be cased with tiles or slates. Like many other wise purposes,
+these regulations have long ago fallen into disuse; and at the
+present day, in an old wooden shed, in the midst of a populous
+neighbourhood, a blacksmith drives his trade; and as you pass the
+open door, his huge fire may be seen vomiting forth its tongues
+of flame, while showers of bright sparks, struck from the glowing
+iron, often find a resting-place amid the surrounding heaps of
+combustibles. Surely such practices ought to be noticed by "the
+powers that be," particularly when we have lately had such
+distressing proofs of the havoc made by that destructive element.
+In 1784 the churchwardens were empowered to sell certain portions
+of public lands, and to purchase other lots, for the more
+convenient erection of a parish hospital. Amendments were also
+made in the act passed in 1766, for the prevention of damage to
+the harbour of St. John's, and for appointing a harbour-master,
+who was to be "a person bred to the sea, and otherwise
+sufficiently skilled and qualified to take charge of the port and
+harbour of St. John's, including the cove."
+
+In 1786, a tax was raised upon the inhabitants of St. John's, to
+defray the expenses of cleaning and repairing the streets of the
+capital. This must have been very requisite, if they were really
+in the state described in the following passage, (extracted from
+a letter written from Antigua August 1, 1786.) "The streets are
+spacious, but unpaved, _nor is there the least care taken to keep
+them clean_. The prickly pear bush, and other shrubs, are
+suffered to grow therein, to the annoyance of the passengers, the
+secreting of every species of nastiness, and to the great
+increase of vermin, insects, and reptiles, with which this place
+abounds." Public billiard and other gaming-tables were
+prohibited, under pain of forfeiture; much to the good order and
+welfare of the island.
+
+In 1787, our late beloved and lamented sovereign William IV.
+(then Prince William Henry) honoured Antigua with a visit. During
+the period of his stay there, he endeared himself to every heart,
+by that kind condescension and sympathy of manner which marked
+his every stage through life. As no doubt it will be interesting
+to my readers to have some account of the manner in which his
+highness passed his time, I will insert the following letter,
+written by John Luffman, the author of the map of Antigua, and
+published, among other of his epistolary productions, in 1789.
+
+                            "St. John's, Antigua, Jan. 16, 1787.
+
+"Dear Sir,--Prince William Henry arrived here the latter end of
+last month in the Pegasus frigate. His appearance has put this
+little community into a ferment. Addresses were immediately
+presented to him from the legislative body, and likewise from the
+merchants, expressive of loyalty to his royal father, and of the
+happiness and honour his highness had conferred on them by his
+gracious visit. The address of the legislature was read and
+presented by a Mr. John Burke, solicitor-general of the Leeward
+Islands, and speaker of the assembly of this island; but,
+notwithstanding this gentleman has been for years hackneyed at
+the bar, and is a bold orator; yet, on this occasion, to the
+astonishment of every bystander, he was nearly bereft of the
+power of utterance. The merchants' address was read and presented
+by a Mr. John Scotland. His highness received these effusions of
+loyalty to his illustrious parent, and of respect to himself,
+with great satisfaction, and returned gracious answers. Each of
+these bodies gave a public dinner and ball for his highness's
+entertainment. The prince opened both balls with Miss A------
+(Athill), a beautiful young lady of respectable family; and his
+affability, politeness, and condescension, to every person who
+had the honour of his conversation, was as conspicuous as it was
+pleasing. The ladies put their best smiles upon their faces, and
+their best adornments upon their persons; indeed, every
+individual seemed emulous of shewing respect to the royal
+visitor. Many offers of particular attention and civility have
+been made to his highness, which he in general declined, wishing
+rather to appear in the humble character of a private gentleman,
+than in the dignified situation of a prince. How long he means to
+honour this isle with his presence, I cannot with certainty
+learn,--it will probably be several months; the people here, I
+believe, hope and _wish it may be for years_. The negroes look at
+the _Grande Bocrah_ (so they call the prince) with astonishment,
+and sometimes incommode him as he walks the streets; but his
+highness possesses all _that admired frankness and noble
+liberality_ so characteristic in a British seaman, and will
+frequently condescend to talk with them. Capt. Nelson, of the
+"Boreas," Capt. Holloway, of the "Solebar," and the other
+principal naval officers on this station, are his highness's
+chief attendants on all occasions.
+
+                      "I remain, &c. &c."
+
+In 1788, two Jews were tried at the court of grand sessions, for
+a robbery committed upon one of their tribe. "Marcus" (the name
+of the one most culpable) was condemned to suffer death by
+hanging, but was afterwards pardoned; while "Vanban" (the name of
+the other culprit) was sentenced to stand in the pillory for a
+certain number of hours. This punishment, however, did not appear
+to make due impression upon the guilty Israelite, for a spectator
+of the exhibition (in a letter written to a friend) describes him
+as standing there with the utmost assurance, "holding, with one
+hand, his hat before his face, and with the other, supporting an
+umbrella to prevent the sun warming his head."
+
+In the latter end of June, 1788, Sir Thomas Shirley quitted the
+government, and sailed for England in the "Roehampton," commanded
+by Captain Ross. His excellency, it appears, felt aggrieved at
+some treatment he received from the legislature, and accordingly,
+upon his departure, he refused the vote of civility from that
+body, and proceeded on board the vessel, attended only by his
+private secretary. Mr. Nugent assumed the command as
+lieutenant-governor, and soon after his arrival, a new road,
+leading to Five Islands Division, was made, and great care taken
+to drive piles in that part of the town known as the "Big
+Market," in order to prevent, if possible, any further
+encroachment of sea, which had, within the last few months,
+almost destroyed the old highway.
+
+In 1790, Sir Thomas Shirley again resumed the government of the
+Leeward Islands, and soon after his arrival, it was enacted by
+the legislature, that it should be lawful for the vestry of St.
+John's to levy a tax (not exceeding 2l. per cent. on value of
+goods sold) upon every transient or non-resident trader who shall
+visit the island, which tax was to be applied to the maintenance
+of ministers, the poor of the parish, or any similar purposes.
+The following year the fortifications at Dow's Hill were
+commenced, the appearance of which, at this day, proves the
+erector's knowledge of rampart and bastion. Amendments were also
+made (1791) as regarded the keeping of rum-shops, or selling any
+spirituous liquors. Prior to this period, no free negro or
+mulatto could keep such an establishment, or sell any strong
+drink or wine under a heavy penalty; or if even they were
+concerned in such a business with a white person, it was
+punishable in both; but under this government the case was
+altered, for upon applying to the court of king's bench, persons
+of their caste and colour could obtain a licence by giving
+security. An act was passed (containing 227 clauses) for the
+better regulating the island courts, and due methods effected for
+an improved administration of justice. It had been formerly the
+practice in Antigua to burn such felons as were within the
+benefit of clergy, in the hand, but this year the punishment was
+commuted to public or private whippings, inflicted once or
+oftener, but not more than at three different periods. This was
+the last decree signed by his excellency: he appears to have been
+an able and just governor, and well calculated for a
+representative of royalty. After the departure of his excellency,
+John Nugent, Esq., resumed the command as lieutenant-governor
+until the following year, when the Honourable William Woodley was
+re-appointed.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[50] For genealogy of this gentleman, and when created a Baronet,
+see Appendix, No. 15.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+
+  Governors: William Woodley--John Stanley--Major-General Charles
+  Leigh--Archibald Esdail--John S. Thomas--Robert Thomson.
+
+In 1792, William Woodley, Esq., was again appointed
+commander-in-chief; and, soon after his arrival, the increase of
+the importation of white servants was again taken into
+consideration.
+
+Antigua had never reckoned a large population of whites; indeed,
+from various causes, they were continually decreasing. This could
+not be attributed to the want of encouragement given to settlers,
+but from the situation of the island itself. Although Antigua is
+naturally fortified by rocks and breakers, which defends it from
+the attacks of large vessels; yet there are so many creeks and
+harbours (which, with a small population, it was almost
+impossible to protect) that the French and Caribs found it an
+easy matter to land in their canoes, and destroy and plunder the
+country, and ill-treat the inhabitants. From these circumstances,
+emigrants were unwilling to settle here, but preferred going to
+some of the other islands, which were less liable to these
+incursions. To counteract these evils, and increase the number of
+white inhabitants, various plans, as already shewn, had been
+adopted by former governors,--fines were imposed upon proprietors
+if they did not employ one able-bodied white man to every thirty
+slaves, supposing that would tend to augment the population. But
+as it was found that the law was still eluded, by owners paying
+the penalty rather than maintain so many white servants, it was
+agreed, this year, by the governor, council, and assembly to
+increase the fine to 53l. 6s. 8d. for every deficient white
+servant to forty slaves annually. Possibly this might have had,
+in some degree, the desired effect; for, in 1800, we find there
+were about 3000 white inhabitants to 36,000 negroes, which had
+not been the case for the last forty years.
+
+In 1793, the militia was regulated, and formed into "one squadron
+of light dragoons, who were to serve on foot and horseback; two
+regiments and one independent company of foot; and one battalion
+of artillery." The dragoons were to be named by the governor and
+council; and although not to be appointed without their own
+consent, when once entered, they were not at liberty to remove to
+another corps, unless promoted by the governor to a commission.
+Only one person from an estate could serve in the dragoons, which
+squadron was to consist of never more than one hundred and eight
+men--non-commissioned officers and privates included--or less
+than sixty. This was the first year any free negro or coloured
+person was allowed to serve in the militia, when they were
+appointed to the under services of artillery, and to act as
+pioneers, and made subject to the same fines as privates of foot.
+It appears this was also the year uniforms were appointed for the
+militia, which being well arranged, made a good show upon their
+monthly field-days. Antigua was visited this year by a malignant
+fever, which caused a great many deaths. It was supposed to have
+been brought from Grenada in H. M. S. Experiment, and conveyed
+ashore in some of the sailors' bedding.
+
+John Stanley, Esq., succeeded Mr. Woodley in the government, and
+arrived the latter end of the same year, (1793,) but he did not
+reside often in Antigua, giving St. Kitts the preference. In
+1794, Antigua sent a complement of men, and some negro slaves, to
+assist in the reduction of Martinique and Guadaloupe; and upon
+the taking of those islands, the governor, council, and assembly,
+issued a proclamation, forbidding any free persons of colour, or
+negro slaves belonging to those places, from coming to, or
+remaining in, this island. During the next year an annuity was
+granted to the Honourable Edward Byam, the president of Antigua,
+for his many services to the island, which has been alluded to in
+a former chapter. A sum of money was also raised for defraying
+the expenses of the war, which had been very heavy for the last
+three years.
+
+Major-General Charles Leigh was appointed commander-in-chief in
+1795, but did not continue in the government more than twelve
+months. During this period, it was agreed to allow such of the
+poorer classes of white persons who might be wounded (while
+serving in the militia) so severely as to affect their
+after-life, 70l. annually; if killed, their widows to receive
+40l. annually, during their widowhood; and their children, 20l.
+annually, until they attained the age of fourteen. Additional pay
+was also provided for the gunner and matrosses employed in the
+several forts, and new regulations for the better ordering of the
+militia, which in these seasons of danger was very necessary, for
+the West Indies were still in an unsettled state, and their old
+enemies the French were always on the look-out for opportunities
+of increasing their possessions in these seas. Major-General
+Leigh becoming disgusted with the West Indies, he determined to
+return to England, and accordingly embarked on board a vessel
+bound for that place, on the 3rd July, 1796, without permission
+from his majesty.
+
+At the departure of Major-General Leigh, there happened to be
+none of the lieutenant-governors of the Leeward Caribbee Islands
+in the West Indies; and accordingly, Archibald Esdail, Esq., a
+counsellor of St. Christopher's[51] claimed the administration of
+the government, and acted as such until his death, which happened
+about three months after; but he did not visit Antigua to take
+upon him the administration of the government, as he ought to
+have done by direction of the reigning monarch. Upon his decease,
+the lieutenant-governors being still absent, John S. Thomas,
+Esq., another resident of St. Christopher's, represented himself
+as first counsellor, and exercised the office of governor until
+April, the following year, (1797.) Nothing of any consequence
+occurred during his short administration, and very little can be
+said about him in this place, for, like his predecessor, he never
+honoured Antigua with his presence. The Kittefonians appeared to
+have had it all their own way at that period, for no sooner had
+Mr. Thomas breathed his last sigh, than another member of that
+community, Robert Thomson, Esq., followed the example set before
+him, represented himself as the oldest counsellor, and,
+consequently, entitled to the vacant government; in which office
+he continued until the arrival of the Right Honourable Lord
+Lavington, (who was formerly governor under the title of Sir
+Ralph Payne,) in 1801. During the three years Mr. Thomson was
+governor, he visited Antigua for about three days, in March,
+1800, so that the Antiguans had not much of their
+commander-in-chief's society; but the council and assembly appear
+to have gone on very well without him, and framed some very good
+laws.
+
+The first year of Mr. Thomson's government, Antigua had a visitor
+in the person of that indefatigable, but unfortunate traveller,
+Mungo Park. Mr. Park had embarked on board the "Charlestown," an
+American slaver, commanded by a Captain Harris, who was bound to
+Antigua with his live cargo. Upon nearing the island, the vessel
+struck upon a rock and narrowly escaped shipwreck; it was,
+however, at length got off, and brought into St. John's harbour,
+where part of the cargo was sold. Mr. Park remained in Antigua
+until the arrival of the "Chesterfield" packet, in which he took
+passage to England. He speaks of Antigua as the loveliest of all
+lovely isles.
+
+Whilst Mr. Thomson was residing at St. Kitts as
+commander-in-chief, the Antiguans were busy in again raising
+funds to defray the expenses of the war, which had been, and
+still were, very great. It was also enacted, that if any free
+coloured, or white person, killed or wounded a slave belonging to
+themselves or any one else, such offenders were to be considered
+as murderers, and, consequently, as worthy of punishment as if
+their victim possessed the fairest skin. That the life of a negro
+was no longer to be considered "in law" as the "life of a dog,"
+but that he was at length to be looked upon as human.
+
+Antigua has always been liable to droughts, and, in such season,
+serious losses have occurred from the slaves dying for want of
+good water; to remedy this evil, as far as laid in their power, a
+tax was imposed upon all sugar plantations and houses in the
+island, which did not possess one or more cisterns.
+
+This year (1798) appears to have been the first time that slaves
+were really tried by jury, which was then made to consist of six
+reputable white inhabitants. If upon trial they were found worthy
+of death, the justices of the peace were to acquaint the
+governor, or whoever might at such time be in command of the
+island, with the sentence, in thirty-six hours after it was
+pronounced, under a penalty of 20l. The provost-marshal was also
+obliged to attend such trial, under a fine of 20l.; and for his
+trouble he was to receive 3s. for summoning each juror, and 33s.
+for his attendance.
+
+In the middle of this year, a general council and assembly was
+held at St. Kitts; and amongst other affairs discussed, it was
+determined to pass certain regulations which would tend to
+ameliorate the condition of slaves.[52] All owners of slaves were
+to furnish a certain quantity of provisions for each slave, under
+a penalty of 10s. per head weekly, which was to be distributed
+among the negroes at the discretion of the master, and old and
+infirm slaves were to receive their full allowance. Perhaps it
+may not be uninteresting to some of my readers to know what was
+the weekly allowance the law allowed for slaves, and
+consequently, will insert it:--"Nine pints of corn or beans, or
+eight pints of peas, or wheat or rye flour, or Indian corn flour,
+or nine pints of oatmeal, or eight pints of Cassava flour or
+Farine, or eight pounds of biscuit, or twenty pounds of yams or
+potatoes, or sixteen pounds of eddoes or tanias, or thirty pounds
+of plaintains or bananas; and also one pound and a quarter of
+herrings, shads, mackarel, or other salted provision, or double
+the quantity of fresh fish or other fresh provisions," all of
+which were to be of good quality. Owners of slaves were not
+allowed to pay them in money, unless there was absolute necessity
+for so doing, under a fine of 20l.; but when circumstances
+obliged them to recompense their slaves by cash, each negro was
+to receive the sum of 4s.[53] weekly, and have two half days
+allowed them to come to market for the purpose of laying it out.
+The clothes allowed slaves for a year were, two jackets of
+woollen cloth, and two pair of trousers, made of Osnaburghs, for
+the men; and two woollen wrappers, and two Osnaburgh petticoats,
+for the women. If preferred by the slave, and agreed to by the
+master, a blanket and a cap were given in place of one suit of
+these clothes. When employed in agricultural work, half an hour
+was allowed for breakfast, and two hours for dinner, and they
+were not to be called to work before five in the morning, nor
+after seven in the evening, unless in crop time, or from evident
+necessity! If any owner of slaves cruelly whipped or imprisoned a
+slave without sufficient support, they were liable to
+imprisonment, or to be fined at the discretion of the justices
+before whom the case was tried; and if they deemed it necessary
+for the further protection of the slave, they could cause such
+slave to be sold at public auction. If any owner of slaves used
+unnecessary severities towards them, or put upon them iron
+collars, chains, or weights, such owner was liable to a fine not
+exceeding 100l. When any slave was attacked by illness, medical
+assistance was to be procured without loss of time; and whatever
+nourishment the doctor ordered, such as wine, &c., was to be
+given, under penalty of 50l. In cases of sudden death among the
+slaves, (when they had not been visited by a medical man
+forty-eight hours before,) notice was to be sent to the coroner
+or justice, when an inquest, of not less than three persons, was
+to be held on the body; should the owner neglect to do this,
+another fine of 100l. was imposed. With regard to the "marriage
+rites" of slaves, if their union can be called so, which was only
+nominal, owners were to encourage them to have only one husband
+or wife; and if faithful to each other, the woman was to receive
+four dollars for her first child, (provided it was alive six
+weeks after its birth,) and five dollars for each succeeding
+child under the same circumstances, and the slave and his wife to
+receive one dollar each at the end of the year. Should their
+master fail to do this, it was punished by a fine of 50l.; while
+the female who, in this state of conjugal fidelity, had borne six
+children, was exempt from any but light work upon her youngest
+child having obtained its seventh year.
+
+Religion appears also to have been encouraged among them; for no
+owner or manager of negroes was to restrain them from attending a
+place of worship on a Sunday, under a penalty of 5l.; and if any
+clergyman refused to baptize a slave which was supposed to be
+sufficiently informed, such clergyman was to forfeit 30s. To
+insure further their comforts, it was ordered that no estate was
+to be without a commodious sick-house, furnished with proper
+conveniences for the use of the sick, and a sufficient number of
+attendants, under direction of a white person, to minister to
+their wants. In omitting to do this, the owner of such estate was
+liable to a penalty of 100l. for the first offence; and 20s. for
+the latter. They were also obliged to return an annual account of
+the births and deaths of their slaves, and how the sick were
+treated, under fine of 100l.
+
+When a female slave proved _enceinte_ of her first child, her
+master was to provide her a house containing two rooms, and not
+compel her to go to the sick-house, under penalty of 20l. During
+pregnancy, they were not to be employed in the general work of
+the estate, but lighter occupation was to be found them; and no
+punishment was to be inflicted but imprisonment. So anxious did
+they appear for the comfort and well-being of their slaves, that
+it was further enacted, that sufficient clothing and provisions
+should be provided for them, even if the estate was in debt; and
+the costs for such articles was to be liquidated before any other
+claim.
+
+A melancholy catastrophe occurred during this year, at Antigua.
+Lord Camelford, then acting as commander of his majesty's sloop
+"Favourite," had a private quarrel with Lieutenant Peterson, of
+H. M. S. "Perdrix;" and some very unpleasant recriminations
+passed between the parties. Soon after this, Lord Camelford gave
+Lieutenant Peterson an order, which he unfortunately refused to
+obey, at the same time making use of some disaffected
+expressions; and the consequences were, that Lord Camelford shot
+him. His lordship was tried by a court-martial, and honourably
+acquitted; but he must have carried a blighted conscience with
+him, for--
+
+   "Alas! they had been friends in youth;
+    But whispering tongues can poison truth;
+    And constancy lives in realms above;
+    And life is thorny; and youth is vain:
+    And to be wroth with one we love,
+    Doth work, like madness, in the brain."
+
+It was this Lord Camelford, who, when travelling through Italy
+some years after, pointed out a spot in one of the fair valleys
+of Savoy, as the place where he wished to be buried; and
+accordingly, his remains were deposited there, amid Nature's
+loveliest works. The end of Lord Camelford was untimely; he fell
+in a duel, by the hands of Captain Best, a native of Barbados,
+whose ideas of honour obliged him to challenge a professed
+duellist, although he was himself a complete novice in such
+affairs. Captain Best's first fire, however, took effect, and
+Lord Camelford fell, mortally wounded. The quarrel originated
+with an unfortunate woman, a second Millwood in character; and
+Lord Camelford, who was the aggressor, confessed to his second,
+before the duel took place, _that he knew he was in the wrong,
+but he would not retract words he had once uttered_. It is said
+that Captain Best, the successful duellist, was never a happy man
+afterwards. He met with heavy domestic afflictions; but in his
+last moments he said to a friend, that all his sorrows would have
+appeared trivial, could he have wiped from his recollection all
+traces of that unfortunate duel.
+
+In 1798 sheep-stealing was made a capital crime in Antigua. It
+had been considered so in England since 1740; and the Antiguans
+found it necessary to punish such offence as that statute
+directed. In 1799, an assize of bread was constituted, which was
+intended to prevent bakers from taking undue advantage of the
+public. Many other regulations were agreed to, upon this head,
+such as not allowing any one to sell bread without licence;
+obliging bakers to put a mark upon their bread, and if changing
+such mark without further licence, to forfeit 50l. If such bread
+was imperfectly baked, to be fined as if deficient in weight; if
+damaged flour was used, the bread to be destroyed by a
+magistrate, and a fine imposed upon the baker of 20l.; and if a
+diseased person was employed in the bakehouse, another 20l.
+penalty was enjoined.
+
+In 1800, a law was passed to ascertain the number of negro slaves
+in Antigua; and the total number of births and deaths upon an
+average, for the last three years; when, upon taking the census,
+the number of negroes was found to be 37,000. About this year the
+legislature thought proper to increase the salary of the colonial
+agent to 200l. sterling, considering that the sum appointed for
+his recompence in 1698, namely 100l. sterling, was an
+insufficient compensation for the trouble. The agent at this
+period was the late Anthony Brown, Esq. Several serious accidents
+having occurred during the last few years from the custom of
+throwing about squibs, or other fireworks, it was determined that
+should any one in future, let their sex or quality be what it
+might, offend in this respect, such offender should be fined 40s.
+If any slave made or sold fireworks, they were to suffer such
+correction as the magistrate before whom the complaint was
+brought should deem proper.
+
+Thus ended Mr. Thomson's public career, after having held the
+government for nearly four years. As before remarked of Mr.
+Thomas, very little can be said about him; for he made St. Kitts
+head-quarters, in opposition to the orders which had been sent
+out by his majesty, to constitute Antigua the residence of the
+commander-in-chief; and did not repair to this island to take
+upon him the administration of the government.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[51] Perhaps it may be scarcely necessary to mention that St
+Christopher's is as frequently called St Kitt's as its real name.
+
+[52] This has been known throughout the West Indies as the famous
+"Melioration Act." This appears to have been the last time the
+general council and assembly for the Leeward Islands met.
+
+[53] A shilling currency is equal to sixpence sterling. It must
+be borne in mind, that all these specified sums are Antigua
+currency.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XII.
+
+
+
+  Governors: The Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington--William
+  Woodley--James Tyson--John Julius--Hugh Elliot--Sir James Leith
+  --Henry Rawlins--S. Rawlins--Major-General Ramsay.
+
+In 1801, the Right Honourable Ralph Lord Lavington was
+re-appointed to the office of commander-in-chief, to the
+gratification of the Antiguans, who, as before remarked, were so
+pleased with his government in 1771, when he was Sir Ralph Payne.
+Lord Lavington came to Antigua about the latter end of January;
+and soon after his arrival, it was agreed for the country to
+allow him an annuity of 1000l. to be paid quarterly out of the
+public treasury of the island; and a further sum of 300l. to be
+paid in like manner until a government house was built for his
+reception. And that his excellency might better support his
+dignity, another annuity of 700l. was granted him, as long as he
+remained within his government. About this time the practice of
+slaves stealing sugar and retailing it in the markets, or selling
+it to shopkeepers privately, was so general, that it was found
+necessary to lay a duty upon that article when retailed. If any
+person sold less than 100lbs. of sugar without having a licence
+for six months, and the further entering into a bond with one
+security for the sum of 50l., such person was liable to a penalty
+of 50l. for the first offence.
+
+It was this year that slaves were condemned to work in the
+streets, for the first time, as a punishment for offences. If any
+slave was committed to jail for refusing to give their owner's
+name, they were put to such work until claimed; when convicted of
+a crime less than felony, they were to be kept to hard labour in
+the streets for the space of three months; and if they had been
+sentenced to death, and afterwards pardoned by the governor, his
+excellency could annex to such pardon an order for the guilty
+slaves to work in the streets for any time he thought proper.
+These culprits were made to work in a gang, chained two and two
+together, and, at the close of the day, when their toil was over,
+they were conveyed to the common jail, and closely confined until
+the next morning, when their labours were resumed. When a slave
+was pardoned on condition of working in the street-gang for a
+certain time, their owners were paid a shilling a-day until the
+release of their slave.
+
+Doubts having arisen with regard to the validity of certain laws
+passed during the administration of A. Esdail, J. S. Thomas, and
+R. Thomson, on account of their not repairing to Antigua to take
+upon them the administration of the government, it was found
+necessary to obviate all doubts by framing another law, to
+confirm them, as also all civil and military commissions which
+had been granted during their government.
+
+The treaty of peace which had been signed between France and
+England in 1801 was not of long continuance. During the latter
+end of 1802, the French government began to act in a very
+menacing manner towards England; and from the military and naval
+preparations which were being carried on by Bonaparte, it was
+evident that war was intended. On the 13th of May, 1803, affairs
+were brought to a crisis, by Lord Whitworth, the ambassador at
+the French court, quitting Paris, by order of his sovereign; and
+immediately after, the French ambassador left England, and war
+was declared between the two powers. Notice to this effect was
+directly forwarded to Lord Lavington, by Lord Hobart, (late
+governor of Madras,) who at that period was one of the principal
+secretaries of state; and upon the arrival of the despatches,
+Antigua was put into a state of defence. Not wishing to declare
+martial law in force through the whole island, yet at the same
+time seeing the necessity of part of the militia being on
+service, it was thought proper to ordain, that in future it would
+be lawful for the governor, with the concurrence of the council
+and assembly, to call out a portion of it for the purpose of
+keeping guard, &c., and, by proclamation, requiring the whole
+body to hold themselves in readiness. It was also deemed
+necessary to revive an act, (which had expired upon the treaty of
+peace being signed at Amiens, March 25th, 1802, between England,
+France, Spain, and Holland,) laying a powder-tax upon all vessels
+trading to and from Antigua. Accordingly, all commanders of ships
+were obliged to pay into the hands of the receiver appointed one
+full pound of powder per ton, to the size of the vessel; half in
+cannon, and the other half in pistol powder.
+
+In 1804, Mr. Wilberforce's annual motion for the abolition of the
+slave trade, which was supported by Mr. Pitt and Mr. Fox, was
+carried by 124 to 46 voices; and a bill presented, limiting the
+period when ships would be allowed to clear out from any English
+port for this inhuman traffic, to October 1st of the same year.
+This bill passed the third reading in the house of commons, but
+was rejected in the house of lords on account of the lateness of
+the session. In Antigua the negro population had decreased 1000
+since the last year.
+
+In the early part of the following year, a French squadron,
+consisting of six sail of the line, and two frigates, contrived
+to elude the vigilance of Lord Nelson's blockading squadron; and
+leaving Rochefort (France), where they had been hemmed in for the
+last two years, proceeded to the West Indies. After having made a
+descent upon Dominica, and levied a heavy contribution upon the
+inhabitants, obliging the town of Roseau to surrender upon
+certain terms, the squadron proceeded for Antigua. Great were the
+fears of the inhabitants when this intelligence reached them; the
+court of king's bench and grand sessions were prevented from
+sitting their usual days on account of the alarm; the militia
+were called out, and the whole island put into a posture of
+defence. The French squadron, however, passed Antigua, and landed
+upon Nevis, and after laying the inhabitants under contribution,
+proceeded to St. Kitts, and lightened a little the pockets of the
+Kittifonians. The alarm had scarcely subsided, when news of the
+arrival of the Toulon fleet, under Admiral Villeneuve, in these
+seas, was received. Again Antigua prepared for war; but the
+ferment did not last long; Lord Nelson quickly followed the
+enemy; and upon his arrival at Barbados on the 4th of June, heard
+that Admiral Villeneuve had only reached Martinique. The name of
+this gallant officer so intimidated the French admiral, that he
+immediately quitted the West Indies, and was followed by Lord
+Nelson, who was in hopes of overtaking him, and chastising the
+French for their audacity.
+
+The departure of these squadrons gave the Antiguans a little
+rest, and enabled them to settle their island business. As peace
+was not likely to ensue at present, and knowing how liable they
+were to alarms like the foregoing, the governor, council, and
+assembly ordained, that in future whenever the court of king's
+bench and grand sessions were prevented from sitting on account
+of the fear of an invasion, it would be lawful for any three or
+more justices, provided three out of the number should be of the
+quorum, to meet at the court-house, and by proclamation, adjourn
+the sessions to a period not less than ten, or longer than
+fourteen days. An act also passed about this time, containing
+sixty-eight clauses, respecting the better regulating the militia
+in these times of danger.
+
+By order of his gracious majesty George III., Lord Lavington
+invested Sir Samuel Hood with the order of the Bath, as some
+reward for his gallant achievements in these seas. Upon this
+occasion his excellency Lord Lavington made a very powerful
+speech, which has been justly praised, but which is too long for
+insertion here. Antigua was visited (1805) by the very clever
+author of "The Chronological History of the West Indies," Capt.
+Southey. This gentleman mentions seeing a female slave, with an
+iron rivetted round her ankle, which had two bars, sharp at each
+point, crossing each other, and projecting about a foot in four
+directions. Her owner informed Capt. Southey it was to keep her
+at home, which was impossible to do without it. This historian
+alludes to the melioration act, which passed in 1798, prohibiting
+such punishments except, (and, as Mr. Southey justly remarks, the
+exception neutralizes the prohibition) _such as are absolutely
+necessary_.
+
+On the 13th of November, died Mr. John Baxter, the head of the
+methodists in Antigua. Mr. Baxter, who was by trade a shipwright,
+had been sent out from Chatham dock-yard to English Harbour in
+1778, and upon his arrival exerted himself in gathering together
+the little society of methodists which Mr. Gilbert had
+established, but which since his death had been scattered about
+for want of a pastor. A further notice of Mr. Baxter and his
+praiseworthy exertions will be found in another part of the work.
+
+In 1806, the abolition of the slave trade was again brought
+before the English parliament, and considerable progress was made
+towards its accomplishment. A bill was also passed prohibiting
+the exportation of slaves from the British colonies after the
+first of January in the succeeding year. On the 22nd of January,
+1807, the total abolition of the slave trade was accomplished,
+and the bill ordained that no slaves should be landed in any of
+the British colonies after the 1st of March, 1808.
+
+Thus this great work was ended, which had been annually discussed
+since 1787; and Mr. Wilberforce reaped the reward of his labours.
+For two hundred and forty-four years had England allowed this
+blood-stained traffic, and shut her ears to the cries of the
+distressed Africans; but a more glorious era had dawned--liberty
+was exerting her power, and paving the way to the future freedom
+of that despised race.
+
+About the middle of the year died the Right Honourable Ralph Lord
+Lavington, Baron of Lavington, one of his majesty's most
+honourable privy council, knight companion of the most honourable
+order of the Bath, captain-general and commander-in-chief of his
+majesty's Leeward Caribbee Islands. His lordship, it is said, was
+a very hospitable man, and very fond of splendour; his Christmas
+balls and routs were upon the highest scale of magnificence; but
+he was a great stickler for etiquette, and a firm upholder of
+difference of rank and _colour_. It is asserted, that he would
+not upon any occasion, receive a letter or parcel from the
+fingers of a black or coloured man, and in order to guard against
+such _horrible defilement_, he had a golden instrument wrought
+something like a pair of sugar tongs, with which he was
+accustomed to hold the presented article. In his household he was
+also very particular. He had, of course, an immense number of
+attendants, but he would not allow any of the black servants to
+wear shoes or stockings, and consequently his ebon footmen used
+to stand behind his carriage as it rolled along, with their naked
+legs shining like pillars of jet, from the butter with which, in
+accordance to his excellency's orders, they daily rubbed them.
+Lord Lavington entered upon his government the latter end of
+January, 1801, and resided at Antigua, with the exception of a
+short visit to Monserrat, until the day of his death. He died
+regretted by the "magnates of the land:" his tomb may still be
+seen at an estate called Carlisle's,[54] but the garden in which
+it stands is overgrown with weeds, and the surrounding walls are
+falling to ruins. Were I the possessor of Carlisle's, this should
+not be the case. If only in respect to the old and noble family
+of the Paynes, Lord Ralph's last resting-place should not be thus
+dishonoured; a few flowers should shed their sweets around; a few
+trees should shade that old grey tomb. There is a very handsome
+monument erected to his memory in the church of St. John's, which
+will be further mentioned in the description of that edifice.
+Lord Lavington's family, on his father's side, had long been
+resident in St. Christopher's, where they were of great eminence
+and distinction, having filled some of the highest offices in
+that island. They originally came from Lavington, in the county
+of Wilts, from whence the title, and are said to have been of
+great antiquity, tracing their descent from Ralph de Payne, a
+follower of William the Conqueror, who took his name it is said
+from Payne in Normandy. His lordship's intimate connexion with
+Antigua is derived from his mother, Alice Carlisle, of a family
+originally from the neighbourhood of Bridgewater, in
+Somersetshire, and whose lineage will be found in the Appendix,
+where it is given from the same source I have derived other
+genealogical information.
+
+After the decease of Lord Lavington, William Woodley, Esq., again
+resumed the reins of government; but he did not repair to
+Antigua, being in a delicate state of health. Sir Alexander
+Cochrane, with a squadron under his command, visited the island
+during this year on his return from taking the Danish West India
+colonies of St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix.
+
+In the month of March, 1809, Wm. Woodley, Esq., the then acting
+commander-in-chief, departed this life; and James Tyson, Esq.,
+represented himself as the first counsellor, and accordingly took
+upon himself the administration of the government, without
+repairing first to Antigua, as he ought to have done.
+
+In 1809, it was found necessary to award certain punishments to
+dealers in witchcraft. Obeah,[55] as it was termed, raged to a
+great extent among the negro population in these islands, and led
+many of them into the deepest crimes. To strike a blow at this
+infatuation, it was ordained, that if any negro pretended they
+had communication with any evil spirit by whose aid they could
+cause death, &c., such slave upon conviction was to suffer
+capital punishment; and if any slave prepared a mixture which was
+intended to cause death, although the poison did not take effect,
+such slave and their accessories were also liable to the same
+punishment.
+
+In the latter part of 1809, John Julius, Esq., another resident
+of St. Kitts, elected himself to the office of
+commander-in-chief, but neither did he repair to Antigua to take
+upon him the administration.
+
+About this period, the Antiguans, out of respect to their late
+respected governor Lord Lavington, agreed to allow his widow,
+Lady Frances Lavington, an annuity of 300l. sterling during her
+life, which was to be paid out of the treasury.
+
+The following year, 1810, Hugh Elliot, Esq., was appointed to the
+government of Antigua and the rest of the Leeward Islands. During
+his administration, it was again ordained, that no medical man
+should practice in this island without a licence; and no licence
+should be granted unless such persons as applied produced a
+certificate from the Surgeons' Hall, or from one of the
+universities in Great Britain, shewing his admittance in them.
+One reason for this regulation was, on account of the numerous
+cases of poisoning among the negroes; and it was conjectured that
+they procured deleterious drugs from some of the low venders of
+medicines, who, like Shakspeare's half-starved apothecary--
+
+   "If a man did need a poison
+    ------ would sell it him."[56]
+
+This wise regulation appears to have emanated from the governor,
+who saw the absurdity, if not _guilt_, of allowing the public to
+place their lives in the hands of the low "self-educated
+physicians," of whom, in those days, the medical body was pretty
+generally composed.
+
+Nor was this the only salutary step proposed by his excellency
+during his administration. Although, as before mentioned, the
+general assembly of the Leeward Islands had, during a meeting at
+St. Kitts, in 1798, passed the "Melioration Act," with the hopes
+of restricting the owners of slaves from excessive cruelty in
+their dealings with their negroes. No limits had been put to the
+_number of lashes_ to be given at _one time_, and for _one
+offence_, and accordingly some maliciously disposed persons had
+evaded the law, and treated their slaves in a most barbarous
+manner. The governor had full proof of this soon after his
+arrival, in the case of a member of the council, at Nevis, who,
+setting aside the laws of humanity, had caused "300 lashes of
+cart-whip, or nearly that number, to be inflicted in the public
+market-place (without the sentence of a magistrate) upon a
+considerable proportion of a gang of thirty-two negroes, who were
+all, more or less, severely punished, without having been
+convicted of any act, which, by the most forced construction,
+could be deemed mutinous, or dangerous to the community at
+large."
+
+In the governor's communications with the Earl of Liverpool, in
+1810, upon this subject, he alludes to the "Melioration Act," and
+deplores that the punishment of whipping was not restricted to 39
+lashes, as in the 14th clause of the "Consolidated Act," passed
+in Jamaica, in 1792; and further proposes, that the clause in
+question should be _immediately annexed_ to the "Leeward Island
+Melioration Act."
+
+That such was not done upon the passing of the act, cannot be
+laid to the charge of the representatives of Antigua, who fully
+coincided with Mr. Burke, the attorney-general of the Leeward
+Islands, in his proposal that such measure should be adopted, but
+which proposition was not carried into effect by the general
+council and assembly.
+
+In 1812, this suggestion of his excellency's, limiting the number
+of lashes to be given in the chastisement of a slave, was fully
+carried into effect. The Antiguans had had another example
+brought before them, where a Tortolian slave-master had murdered
+several of his negroes, in a most shocking manner, and cruelly
+ill-treated others; and the Antiguans appear to have been wishful
+of exterminating that plague-spot cruelty from their little
+island! For this reason, they forbad owners, jailors, or any
+other person who had the superintendence of such inflictions, to
+give their slaves _more than 39 lashes_ at one time, and for one
+offence; nor were they to repeat the punishment within 14 days,
+under a penalty of 100l. No slave was to receive more than six
+lashes at one time, for one offence, unless the owner's attorney,
+manager, or overseer, should be present It is strange, very
+strange, that so many dreadful deeds should have been practised
+in Antigua, and still so many laws been framed for the protection
+of the slaves, even long before the period I am now writing
+about. What answer are we to give to this enigma? Alas! alas! in
+many instances, we must again exclaim with Captain Southey, "_The
+exceptions neutralize the prohibitions_."
+
+In 1813, his excellency Hugh Elliot left the government, and John
+Julius again entered upon the administration, but he did not
+reside at or visit Antigua. This was the first year a police
+force was established; it consisted of five reputable white men,
+who had been recommended to the commander-in-chief, (or in his
+absence, the president of the island,) assisted by about as many
+discreet black or coloured persons. One of these white men was to
+be called "Clerk of the Police," and it was his duty to attend
+the sittings of magistrates on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays,
+and summon accused parties and witnesses. These police-officers
+had several duties to perform--such as taking up slaves who were
+found selling any article in the streets, on the working days,
+unless they could produce a pass from their owners; to forbid
+them selling fresh butter or milk, unless in possession of like
+certificate; and to turn out of the town, upon the ringing of the
+church bell at half-past nine at night, all country negroes, and
+oblige such as resided in the capital to retire to their houses.
+
+In the middle of June, 1814, Sir James Leith arrived in Antigua,
+to fulfil the office of captain-general and governor-in-chief
+over the Leeward Caribbee Islands, but he did not remain here
+much longer than a year, for, having suffered from indisposition,
+he obtained leave of absence, and embarked for England, where he
+shortly afterwards died. Nothing of much importance occurred
+during the period Sir James resided in the government. Admiral
+Cochrane was still stationed in these seas, and kept so strict a
+watch upon the enemy, that they were unable to distress this or
+the other islands.
+
+After the departure of Sir James Leith, another resident of St.
+Kitts, Henry Rawlins, Esq., acted as commander-in-chief. During
+his administration, an act was passed, founded upon that
+celebrated one of Lord Ellenborough's against cutting and
+maiming, punishing with death those who discharged fire-arms with
+intent to injure any one, setting fire to cane pieces or
+buildings, or perpetrating any other malicious deed.
+
+In the year 1814 was signed the treaty of peace between France
+and England, and once more Antigua was freed from her alarms and
+watchings. Henry Rawlins dying, Stedmans Rawlins exercised the
+government in 1816. Neither of these gentlemen, however, resided
+in this island. The yellow fever again made its appearance, and
+carried off a great many persons, particularly among the
+soldiers.
+
+In 1816, the general government of the Leeward Caribbee Islands
+was discontinued, and the Prince Regent, during the unfortunate
+indisposition of his father, appointed Major-General George W.
+Ramsay, governor-in-chief of Antigua, Monserrat, and Barbuda, who
+arrived in Antigua in the middle of the year. Soon after General
+Ramsay's arrival, it was agreed by the council and assembly to
+allow his excellency 5000l. currency per annum, which was to be
+paid quarterly, from taxes and fines for the deficiency of white
+servants, or duties on retailers of rum; and should these be
+insufficient, from other moneys in the public treasury. It was
+also enacted, that in the event of the death or absence of the
+commander-in-chief, the treasurer should pay to such person, to
+whom the government devolved, the sum of 3000l. currency per
+annum, as long as he remained in command, the better for him to
+support his dignity.
+
+About this period, it was currently reported in the mother
+country, that the West Indian proprietors were in the habit of
+holding _free_ black and coloured persons in slavery; and that,
+from the facilities afforded them by a state of peace, they also
+evaded the slave trade abolition laws, by smuggling negroes into
+these islands. To confute these reports, the Antiguans thought it
+best to introduce a registry of slaves, to be filled up at
+certain periods, with the name, sex, colour, and age of every
+slave, and how they were become possessed of. This registry was
+to be sworn to before a justice of the peace, by the proprietor
+or his representative; and if any person omitted making such
+return of their slaves, they were liable to a penalty of 200l.
+for every slave.
+
+During the temporary absence of his excellency Major-General
+Ramsay, T. Norbury Kerby, Esq., the treasurer of the island, held
+the government. It was thought proper, about this period, (1817,)
+to restrict the existing privilege of exporting slaves, and make
+it punishable to sell or send a slave off the island. If any
+slaves were thus exported, they became forfeited to the king, as
+well as the vessel which was to convey them away, and any
+officers of H.M. Customs could seize such ship and slaves. This
+did not, however, prevent any owner from carrying their domestic
+slaves off the island with them, or from hiring or employing
+their slaves as mariners; but they were to have their name and
+description indorsed on the clearance of the vessel which carried
+them away, under penalty of 100l., to both owner of slave and the
+master of the vessel.
+
+In concluding this chapter, I must be allowed to remark, that,
+let Antigua be what she may, since she has seen her error, she
+has never withheld manumission from her slaves; and, as we have
+just noticed, was the first among the West Indian Islands which
+endeavoured to spare that class the further pang of
+transportation.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[54] This estate belonged to his excellency Lord Lavington, and
+until within this last few years went by his name.
+
+[55] For further particulars respecting Obeah, see Chapter XXXII.
+
+[56] In 1676, a similar law had been brought into force, but from
+some cause had fallen into disuse. The penalty for practising
+without a licence was, at that period, confined to a forfeit of
+5000lbs. of sugar.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XIII.
+
+
+
+  Governors: Sir Benjamin D'Urban--Sir Patrick Ross--Sir Evan
+  Murray McGregor--Mr. Light--Sir W. G. MacBean Colebrooke--Major
+  McPhail--Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy.
+
+After the death of Major General Ramsay in 1819, his gracious
+majesty George III. appointed Sir Benjamin D'Urban to the vacant
+government, who arrived at Antigua in the following year, 1820.
+
+During the administration of Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the census was
+taken, when the population was found to consist of 37,031 souls--
+viz., 4066 coloured, 1980 whites, and 30,985 negroes.
+
+A very efficient militia was also raised, consisting of 15
+staff-officers, 87 commissioned-officers, and 843
+noncommissioned-officers and privates; making in all, 945.
+
+The year 1825 is celebrated for the arrival of the first English
+bishop in the West Indies. During the preceding year, George the
+Fourth appointed, by letters patent, (bearing date 24th July,
+1824,) two bishops for the cure of souls in the British West
+Indies; the one to be styled the Bishop of Jamaica, &c., the
+other, the Bishop of Barbados and the Leeward Islands, having in
+his diocese the islands of Barbados, St. Vincent's, St. Lucia,
+Grenada, Dominica, Antigua, Monserrat, Nevis, St. Christopher's,
+and the Virgin Isles--Trinidad and Tobago, with their respective
+dependances.
+
+Upon the arrival of Bishop Coleridge in the West Indies, he
+remained for a short time at Barbados (as head-quarters), and
+then proceeded upon a tour to the respective islands which
+constituted his see. Prior to the appointment of a bishop in
+these colonies, the clergy officiating there were considered
+under the superintendence of the bishop of London; and that
+prelate, as well as the archbishops of Canterbury and York, could
+ordain "any person who should, on examination, be deemed
+qualified for the cure of souls, or officiating in any spiritual
+capacity in his majesty's colonies, or foreign possessions,
+although such persons might not have possessed the title required
+by the canons of the church of England, of such as are to be made
+ministers.
+
+Alas! how many were ordained, and deemed qualified for the "cure
+of souls," in the West Indies, who, by precept and practice, led
+their unhappy parishioners further into the power of the _enemy
+of souls_! who, whatever they might preach, _lived_ in open
+violation of the laws of God and man; and who, after indulging in
+the grossest sensuality throughout the six days of the week,
+presumed to enter into the pulpit on a Sunday, and, _pro
+tempore_, descant most learnedly and profoundly upon the
+_beauties of morality_! But enough of such disgracers of the
+sacred office--they have passed away to render an account of
+their stewardship before a holy and a righteous bar; nor should I
+have alluded to them, did I not wish to impress upon the minds of
+the Antiguans the blessing they enjoy in possessing a more
+enlightened and evangelical race of clergymen.
+
+To return to the bishop: a sum of 4200l. sterling per annum is
+placed at his disposal, to be distributed among the several
+ministers, catechists, and schoolmasters, as salaries, &c., with
+the proviso, that no minister shall receive more than 300l.
+sterling per annum, from such fund.
+
+By his patent the bishop ordains, confirms, and performs all
+those several functions peculiar to his office, as one of the
+successors of the apostles. The bishop is made a body corporate;
+has a common seal granted him, and is considered subordinate to
+the archbishop of Canterbury. An ecclesiastical jurisdiction over
+the clergy is also conferred upon him, and on the commissaries by
+him appointed; but such jurisdiction does not interfere with the
+provision of any local law which has received the royal
+confirmation. "In case of the absence of the bishop and his
+commissaries, the governor of Barbados is authorized to appoint
+any two clergymen to institute benefices, and to license
+curates."
+
+Sir Benj. D'Urban being recalled, Sir Patrick Ross was appointed
+governor and commander-in-chief. His excellency arrived at
+Antigua in the year 1826, and during his stay there, ingratiated
+himself with the _heads of the island_, by his courteous manners,
+and his humane desire to spare their feelings upon the
+all-engrossing topic of approaching emancipation.
+
+The year 1828 will be remembered by many Antiguans, as that in
+which the "Dandy Fever" prevailed. This most distressing and
+painful illness took its name from the strange gestures into
+which its excruciating agonies threw the unfortunate sufferers,
+and who, in their awkward attempts at walking, were likened by
+some facetious spirit to that nondescript race of men--the
+dandies!
+
+The year 1831 was the scene of an insurrection among the negroes.
+The cause of this disaffection among the black population was,
+the suppression of the Sunday markets, and the omission, on the
+part of the authorities of the island, to provide a day instead
+of the Sabbath, in which the negroes might bring the produce of
+their gardens and poultry yards into the capital to sell.
+
+The Sunday markets were indeed a nuisance most properly got rid
+of, for they engendered all kinds of dissipation among the lower
+classes on the Lord's day; yet is it to be wondered at that the
+negroes felt aggrieved in having the only day they could call
+their own taken from them, as it were, and no other portion of
+the week allotted to them?
+
+From muttered threats, and sullen looks of discontent, the
+negroes proceeded to acts of open violence. Incendiarism raged to
+a great extent; no sooner was one fire extinguished, than another
+was discovered in an opposite quarter. Martial law was in force;
+and the officers of the militia had then ample opportunities of
+shewing forth their valour, and winning laurels in the field of
+Mars.
+
+Great were the marchings and counter-marchings upon this
+occasion; mysterious the signs and counter-signs! Then there was
+such buckling on of spurs, and bracing on of swords--such
+displays of epaulets and aiguillettes, as would have surprised
+any one not accustomed to West Indian militia "turn outs."
+Generals galloped here, and colonels there; at one moment a party
+of gallant dragoons, armed to the teeth, and mounted--some on
+gaunt steeds of sixteen hands high, and others on diminutive
+ponies, dashed along the streets; at another, the governor and
+his brilliant staff might be seen hurrying forward as fresh
+intelligence arrived of other fires breaking out.
+
+At length something like order was restored. Many of the negroes
+were apprehended; and the supposed ringleader, after being
+brought to trial, was condemned and executed. He met his fate
+with resignation, but protested to the very last that he died
+innocent of the offence (arson) imputed to him; the other
+culprits were punished by public floggings and imprisonments.
+Thus was the insurrection of 1831 quelled, and peace once more
+established. Saturday was appointed for the principal market day;
+and the planters agreed to allow their people to visit the
+capital every, or every other week, to vend their little wares.
+
+In 1832, Sir Evan Murray McGregor was appointed to the government
+of the Leeward Islands, including Dominica. Sir Evan was a member
+of the McGregor family, so celebrated in Scottish history, and of
+which the redoubted Rob Roy was a chieftain. His excellency was a
+man of the strictest political principles, and of a most
+enlightened mind. He saw and felt the degradations laid upon the
+coloured people; and as far as lay in his power he mitigated
+their sufferings. It was not until his administration that
+coloured persons served as jurors.
+
+His kind feelings towards this portion of his majesty's subjects
+were not altogether agreeable to many of the self-constituted
+"exclusives;" and various were the schemes and projects to turn
+him from his purpose of rewarding the merits of the coloured
+class. But Sir Evan possessed an inflexible spirit, and neither
+frowns nor caresses could prevent him from dispensing justice to
+all, be their colour what it might.
+
+Acting upon these principles, his excellency, in 1834, appointed
+Mr. Loving, a gentleman of colour, chief of police, with a salary
+of 600l. per annum. This dreadful innovation of the governor's
+met with the strongest resistance from those persons who were led
+to look upon a man's merit as inseparably connected with his
+white descent; and no efforts were spared upon their part to
+endeavour to persuade Sir Evan to rescind the appointment. This,
+however, was not to be effected, and many a breast burned with
+secret indignation against the man who had dared to throw down
+the partition wall between the _immaculate_ whites, and a
+descendant of Afric's despised children!
+
+But it was not colour alone that formed the grand objection to
+this gentleman's appointment. Mr. Loving had been for some time
+the editor of a paper, and in such capacity had raised his voice
+against the system of slavery, and advocated in a firm, but mild
+spirit, the cause of emancipation, in a country where nearly all
+its principal inhabitants were slave-holders. Upon the strength
+of the old adage, "What can't be _cured_ must be _endured_," Mr.
+Loving was allowed to remain quietly in his situation, until time
+brought about mighty changes, and made the Antiguan
+slave-holders, like himself, friends to freedom.
+
+The following year, 1833, was noted for the severe shocks of
+earthquake felt at Antigua, as well as at most of the other
+islands throughout the chain. These earthquakes were followed by
+a season of dry weather, which crushed the hopes of the planters,
+and rendered in great measure the fertile little island a barren
+waste.
+
+1834 is celebrated throughout the British West Indies as the year
+of the abolition of slavery, and more particularly by the
+Antiguans, who, laying aside all claims to apprenticeship, gave
+their negroes _immediate freedom_. For this consummation had many
+worthy men toiled and sighed--for this had Sharpe, Clayton,
+Wilberforce, Buxton, Lushington, and many others, written and
+spoken, until wearied nature had often sunk, almost exhausted--
+and now the bright day of liberty had arrived, and the great and
+glorious triumph, which for so many years had been as a beacon
+before the minds of philanthropic men, had been achieved; but
+alas! of those who would have sung jubilee on the fulfilment of
+their wishes, many had yielded up their noble spirits, and passed
+to the silent tomb.
+
+The year following emancipation (1835) was the scene of a violent
+hurricane, which raging with extreme fury throughout the greater
+part of the night, caused great loss to many of the inhabitants.
+Soon after the hurricane, the yellow fever broke out with great
+malignancy, and hurried many a young and gifted one from the
+family circle.
+
+During the period Sir Evan McGregor administered the government,
+he endeavoured to restore the custom of holding a general council
+and assembly, to convene at certain times, at one of the several
+islands within his jurisdiction; and also to make the island of
+Dominica head-quarters. His excellency's view and wishes upon
+this subject were, however, overruled by the home government;
+although it was permitted him to make Dominica his place of
+residence should such be his desire. Soon after his removal to
+the latter colony, he received the higher appointment of Governor
+of Barbados, to which seat of government he repaired, leaving
+Antigua to a kind of interregnum, which was filled up by the
+president of the island.
+
+During his excellency's administration, he also recommended the
+legislature to enact a law to govern elections--a deficiency in
+the laws of Antigua complained of by a large portion of the
+inhabitants; the qualifications of voters being entirely governed
+by resolutions of the house, as best suited the purposes of its
+members. In contested elections, freeholders, it is said, were
+frequently left to unconstitutional resolutions of the assembly,
+who, paying no attention to former precedents, adopted such
+measures as would best secure the interests of their own
+party.[57] There are, however, laws for the protective privileges
+of freeholders for other distinctive purposes, such as exemptions
+from arrest, &c.
+
+In 1836, Henry Light, Esq., arrived at Antigua to play his part
+upon the stage of colonial life as lieutenant-governor. His lofty
+pretensions to liberal principles, and his condescending
+greatness to the _mixed blood_ in admitting a few members of that
+class to "his table," evinces much insincerity, for in his
+private despatches to Lord Glenelg, he reprobates, with but one
+or two exceptions, that body of persons, in terms as ill-founded
+as they are illiberal. Nothing of importance occurred during Mr.
+Light's sojourn at Antigua; he has subsequently been appointed to
+the government of British Guiana, where he has had an opportunity
+of shewing forth his philanthropy, as well as of acquiring fame.
+
+The year 1837 marked the appointment of Sir William MacBean
+George Colebrooke to the office of governor-in-chief of the
+Leeward Islands. Of the same liberal principles as Sir Evan
+McGregor--firm, dignified, and polished--of courteous demeanour
+and pleasing address, Sir William was formed to command respect,
+and conciliate the affections of all classes. In his official
+proceedings, he was ever actuated by prudence; and with the
+welfare of the colonies, over which he presided, at heart, he
+pursued his way in that open, straightforward manner, which, to
+an honourable mind, is of such inestimable value.
+
+In the first year of Sir William Colebrooke's administration, a
+bank was established in Antigua by royal charter; thus rendering
+obsolete an act which had been passed in the early part of the
+reign of George III., for preventing the circulation of paper
+bills of credit in the colonies. Prior to this period, no
+governor could assent to such circulation, under forfeiture of
+1000l., the being dismissed his government, and declared
+incapable of holding any other public office or place of trust.
+
+In the following year, his excellency deemed it proper to abolish
+the militia; a measure which saved the treasury of the island a
+considerable sum annually; and accordingly, on the 1st of July,
+1838, that body ceased to exist, and an end was put to all
+martial glory and deeds of arms among the store-keeper captains
+and planter colonels of Antigua. It was not until some time after
+the revocation of the militia, that the legislature remembered to
+call in the arms from the privates; and accordingly, when such
+orders were issued, great defalcation was discovered; the few,
+however, collected, were consigned to a far different purpose
+from what they were originally intended--being formed into a
+fence before the arsenal, where they remain, with their bayonets
+pointing to the skies, as mementos of the warlike acts of the
+island.
+
+Sir William Colebrooke entertained similar opinions as Sir Evan
+McGregor, upon the expediency of there being one general council
+and assembly among the islands under his jurisdiction; and
+consequently, strenuous exertions were made by him, to carry his
+plans into effect. The acquiescence of the home government to
+this measure was so relied upon by his excellency, that before
+accounts could be received from England, despatches were
+forwarded to the other Leeward Islands, calling upon the members
+of their respective legislatures to visit Antigua, in order to
+hold the first general council and assembly. The legislators of
+St. Christopher's were the first to obey the summons, and some of
+that body were actually in the boat about to convey them on board
+the vessel in which they had taken passage for Antigua, when the
+packet with the European mails was observed in the offing.
+Anxious to receive their letters before their departure for
+another colony, they determined to wait until the post-master
+distributed them--a resolution which saved them a fruitless
+voyage; for, from despatches from Sir William Colebrooke, they
+learned that the English parliament had refused to acknowledge
+any general assembly.
+
+In 1840, Sir W. Colebrooke returned to England; and Major
+McPhail, the lieutenant-governor of Dominica, was called to
+administer the government for the time being. His excellency was
+also a man of liberal principles--one who was inflexible in
+performing his official duties without partiality, and earnestly
+desirous of promoting the public good, and effecting a kind
+feeling among all classes. As a private character, his courteous
+and pleasing demeanour endeared him to all who held communion
+with him; and when he quitted the government, he carried with him
+the best regards and earnest wishes of every member of the
+Antiguan community. Nothing of particular moment occurred during
+his administration, with the exception of the dreadful fire in
+1841, (further noticed in these pages,) and the strictness with
+which the police laws (respecting the capture of animals found
+strolling in the public streets) has been carried into force.
+Great has been "the hue and cry" among the swinish multitude; and
+day after day has the intelligence arrived that another
+unfortunate pig has been imprisoned within the walls of the
+pound, without any regard to the feelings of the said quadruped,
+or its family. Even Sunday--that day of rest--was no rest to
+them, or the parties whose duty it was to capture them; and so
+far was the disturbance carried, which such exploits caused, that
+some good people took the trouble to write and disseminate
+papers, calling upon policemen, magistrates, &c., to observe to
+keep holy the Sabbath, and not allow pigs to be hunted before the
+very doors of the churches and chapels, even when service was
+being performed.
+
+Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy, who has succeeded as
+governor-general of the Leeward Islands, is a branch of a high
+and noble English family. The accounts which have preceded him of
+his many virtues, bids fair for Antigua enjoying, in the person
+of her majesty's representative, a good and liberal governor--one
+who will dispense justice without regard to caste or complexional
+prejudice--rewarding merit wherever it may be found--measures
+which, it is said, have been overlooked by many of his
+predecessors until within these last few years.
+
+Sir C. A. Fitzroy is lineally descended, in the female line, from
+Brigadier-General Crosby, (who had been appointed to the command
+of the Leeward Island government, in 1730,) as will be seen on a
+reference to his genealogy, in the Appendix.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[57] It must be remarked, that the house passed these resolutions
+after a member had been duly returned upon former precedents, so
+that if the returned member was obnoxious from his liberal
+principles, fresh regulations were determined upon in order to
+dispossess him of his seat. These are the evils incident upon
+having no laws to govern elections.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XIV.
+
+
+
+  My first voyage to Antigua--Visit upon deck--The booby's
+  welcome--Nearer approach--Harbour of St. John's--The Black
+  Pilot--North Sandy Island--Wreck of the mail-boat--Dangerous
+  navigation--Long Island--South Sandy Island--Panoramic views
+  from the vessel's deck--Light winds--Disappointment made
+  pleasing--Anchorage for the night
+
+Having noticed the most important of its historical events, I
+must now be allowed to give some description of the appearance of
+Antigua, and of my first visit to its shores. After a voyage of
+many weeks, early one morning we were agreeably saluted with the
+cry of "land!" Sleep was immediately banished from my eyes, and
+with a beating heart I waited until the day should "pour in
+apace," and allow me the pleasure of viewing for the first time
+one of those tropical islands I had often thought of with
+delight. A fair wind filled our sails, and we rapidly gained upon
+the distant object, which (when I first peeped up the companion
+ladder) looked like one of those shadowy clouds I had so
+frequently seen resting, as it were, upon the bosom of the ocean,
+at the utmost verge of the horizon.
+
+By this time the sun was fast mounting up the sky, and shone with
+all its fervour upon the glassy waves below; and as we
+noiselessly glided on, the mountains began to assume a distincter
+form, and proved beyond doubt that we were near the end of our
+voyage.
+
+A bustle upon the deck, the trampling of many feet, the rattling
+of ropes, and the sound of strange voices, and a stranger
+dialect, announced the arrival of the pilot; and unable any
+longer to suppress the longing desire I had to behold Antigua
+from a more eligible situation than my peep-hole, I hastily tied
+on my bonnet, and spite of the increasing heat, sought my
+companion upon the deck. Seated upon a hen-coop, which had been
+arrayed in all the glories of bright green paint, I prepared to
+look about me; when suddenly I felt a peculiar sensation, which
+told me, that, like "Achilles," I was anything but invulnerable
+in my heel. A "booby," or gannet, an aquatic bird, which had been
+captured the night before, and placed in "durance vile" within
+the self-same coop, was bidding me welcome to her native clime,
+by unceremoniously inserting her bill into that very susceptible
+part; and as I was not stoic enough to receive such favours
+unmoved, she expressed her displeasure by a doleful unharmonious
+scream. "Well," thought I, "this is not the pleasantest welcome
+possible," and turning my eyes towards the land, "nor this the
+most interesting looking island in the world." In fact, it looked
+dull and dreary; its mountains appeared barren and sunburnt; and
+the distance prevented me from seeing the valleys and dingles
+which in some degree redeem it from insipidity.
+
+Our gallant vessel, however, still kept on her way, and--
+
+   "Walk'd the waters like a thing of life;"
+
+and as we approached the land, the scene changed for the better.
+Bright green patches of the sugar-cane appeared amid the brown of
+the foremost mountains; while the more distant of the chain
+presented that harmonious blending of a thousand dyes, which
+poets love to sing, and painters love to study. As it happened to
+be that season of the year when the sugar harvest was in
+progress, the white sails of the various mills glittered in the
+sunbeams, and upon the eminences the manager's house (or in the
+language of the country, the "great house") looked down upon its
+little hamlet of negro huts, picturesquely embosomed in trees.
+
+On, on we glided; the merry breeze piping in our ears, and the
+snow-white foam curling and writhing around our prow, until at
+length we came so near that we could see and almost count the
+waves as they dashed upon the silver sands of the surrounding
+bays. In one part a number of tall cocoa-nut trees stretched
+their long arms to the blast, whilst upon every side of us the
+light skiffs of the fishermen danced like cockle-shells upon the
+buoyant waters, and their dusky masters intently pursued their
+trade of entrapping the finny race.
+
+Our good breeze did not desert us; and rapidly and surely we made
+way, until we passed over the bar, and entered the harbour of St.
+John's. What a busy scene now presented itself to my view; the
+various ships from England, Scotland, Ireland,[58] and America,
+distinguished by their several flags; the boats and droughers[59]
+hurrying backwards and forwards with their loads; whilst the
+hallooing of the sailors, and the screaming of the negro
+watermen, conspired to render it the very imagery of discord.
+
+The town of St. John's, with its white houses and green
+jalousies, lay stretched before us, surmounted by its neat and
+pretty church; and upon our left the Fort of St. James and Rat
+Island. While looking at the latter, up went a flag, which,
+fluttering in the breeze, announced to the good people of St.
+John's the arrival of a ship from "_home_" as the Antiguans
+always call England. Several boats now joined us from the shore,
+conveying friends to welcome us to Antigua; a harbour-master, (a
+very agreeable and worthy personage by-the-bye,) to make certain
+inquiries; custom-house officers, (of a superior class of men to
+those who board vessels in the Thames, and are so disagreeably
+distinguished by their undeviating devotion to that herb, which
+Sir Walter Raleigh, in his excessive overflow of human kindness,
+is said to have introduced into England,) to see that if you
+smuggled yourselves on shore, you did not smuggle your goods; and
+plenty of black boys, to grin and chatter, and get all the
+biscuit and beef they could.
+
+But I must not omit to give a more particular account of the
+black pilot. A very pompous personage he was, and one who no
+doubt stood vastly high in his own estimation, as he lent upon
+the rail of the vessel, with his large straw hat, and gigantic
+snuff-box, giving orders to the sailors, and in the interim
+discussing the news of the island. "Hab fine rain last night; you
+bring good _wedder_--(war for you 'tand staring dere for, you
+black nigger ?)--yes, feber berry bad last month, many buckra die
+--(war you go do, run de ship on de shore?)--Crop bery good dis
+year; ship load fast 'nough--(why you no haul dat rope good?)--
+Yes, gubbernor bin bery bad; better now tho'." And thus he ran
+on, until, the proper place gained, down dropped the ponderous
+anchor, a boat received us, and in a short time landed us "all
+well" upon one of the wharfs of Antigua, amid blacks and whites,
+porters and boatmen, and boys and girls clad "a la Venus."
+
+The harbour of St. John's is reckoned one of the finest and most
+commodious in the West Indies. The entrance is defended by Goat
+Hill Fort on the south, and St. James Fort on the north; across
+the mouth of it runs a shoal, known as the bar, which extends
+from a bay called Hog John, to Fort James. The depth of water
+upon this bar is only from seven to fourteen feet; and
+consequently, ships, when they are partly laden, pass over this
+shoal, and take in the remainder of their cargo off Dickenson's
+Bay. The principal trade of the island is carried on at this
+port, the harbour is generally full of shipping; and during the
+hurricane months, many vessels from the neighbouring islands come
+here for safety. The approach to it is, however, intersected with
+numerous rocks, and about three miles from its mouth lies a small
+island, surrounded by reefs and breakers, to which the name of
+"Sandy Island" has been attached. It was upon these reefs that,
+in 1826, the "Maria" mail boat was wrecked, and, with her hapless
+crew, went to the bottom. She had been down to St. Thomas and the
+other Islands with the mails for England;[60] and upon her
+return, putting into Monserrat, took on board the Wesleyan
+missionaries, and their wives and children, who had been to St.
+Kitts to attend their yearly district meeting, and who were
+desirous of returning to Antigua, the scene of their labours.
+They had left St. Kitts a few days before, in a small vessel
+hired for the purpose; but finding it rather "crank," they were
+unwilling to proceed, and determined to wait at Monserrat for the
+arrival of the "Maria."
+
+But who can look into futurity? who can tell what may be in store
+for him? The _crank_ vessel reached Antigua in safety; the mail
+boat and all on board, with the exception of one solitary female,
+perished in the treacherous waters, almost within sight of their
+own homes--within hearing of the church bell. I never pass the
+spot without shuddering, and fancying what must have been the
+feelings of that _one_ who was spared to tell the dreadful tale.
+A woman of lively imagination and affectionate disposition, she
+saw friend after friend washed away by the remorseless waves. The
+pride of manhood!--the shrinking delicacy of woman!--the
+helplessness of infancy!--all of no avail!--a splash--a bubble--
+and all was over, and their bodies filled the maw of some
+rapacious monster, or rested in some coral cave beneath the
+waters, there to remain until that great day, when sea and earth
+must give up their dead. Of the ill-fated voyagers, all who
+remained were, she who was destined to be the sole survivor, her
+husband, and the master of the vessel. Worn out by mental agony,
+and unavailing exertions to attract the notice of the many
+fishing-boats and other vessels which were constantly passing
+within their sight, but which either did not perceive or would
+not assist them, the master of the vessel gave himself up to the
+dominion of the "giant despair," and losing his hold of the
+wreck, was quickly carried away by the waves. One more victim was
+required--and that was the dearest, the best beloved--her husband
+died in her arms, and after holding him for many a painful
+minute, and struggling for mastery with the billows to retain the
+much-loved corpse, nature became exhausted, and she sank into a
+state of insensibility. In this state she remained until the crew
+of some passing vessel raised an alarm upon their gaining shore.
+A party of gentlemen went in search of the supposed wreck, and
+finding the inanimate female, quickly conveyed her to the main
+land, where every care was lavished upon her, and happily not
+without success.
+
+No one can read the affecting details of the sufferings of this
+unhappy crew (an account of which Mrs. Jones, the name of the
+lady, afterwards published) without feeling deep sorrow at the
+event. At the same time, no one dares to ask "why was it so?" All
+we can allege is,
+
+   "God moves in a mysterious way."
+
+This melancholy catastrophe was known at St. Kitts as soon as (if
+not before) it was at Antigua: the dead body of a child (one of
+the unfortunate passengers) conveyed the first direful tidings.
+
+Sandy Island is by no means the only sentinel which Nature has
+placed to guard her favourite land from the sudden inroads of the
+enemy, the whole of the north side of Antigua being surrounded by
+rocks and breakers, which make it dangerous navigation. On this
+account ships generally come down the south side of the island,
+although some masters of vessels, from the impulse of a daring
+spirit, or from a want of knowledge, pursue the other course, and
+often have to lament the issue.
+
+On the northern and eastern sides of Antigua a great number of
+small islands are scattered, and it is from some of these that
+the smooth yellowish free-stone, of which the Court-house is
+built, is obtained; this free-stone is proved to be composed of
+carbonate of lime and oxyde of iron. The principal of these
+islands are, Pole-cat Isle, Goat's Isle, Guana[61] Isle, Maiden's
+Isle, Cochran's Isle, and Long Island.
+
+In 1700, Long Island, then the property of the Honourable Edward
+Byam, was sold by him, and it is now in the hands of the
+Honourable Bertie E. Jarvis. Since the Emancipation Act came into
+operation, a great part of it has been let out at an annual rent
+to the negroes, who plant it with provisions. It is noted for a
+peculiar breed of sheep, its rabbit-warrens, and the number of
+sea-side grape trees (_Coccolobo uvifera_) which grow in all
+directions. In former times, there was a mill and sugar works
+upon it, (the ruins of which are still to be seen,) and more than
+a thousand hogsheads of sugar have been known to be shipped from
+thence in one year. This apparent improbability has been thus
+accounted for: large quantities of sugars used to be smuggled
+from Martinique and Guadaloupe, and landed safely and silently
+upon Long Island, which is particularly favourable for such
+adventures. These sugars were afterwards shipped to England as
+the _produce of the island_, by the following evasion of the law.
+It was customary at that period, to swear before one of the
+magistrates, as to the quantity of sugar made and intended to be
+shipped; and the certificate was then taken to the collector of
+her majesty's customs, who, seeing the signature of the
+magistrate, allowed all was correct. The parties who were
+possessed of this smuggled sugar, and who were wishful of
+transporting it to its destined market, would come before a
+justice and assert that the seven or nine hogsheads which they
+intended shipping on board such vessel were the real growth of
+Long Island; the customary oaths were therefore administered, the
+magistrate signed his name, and the cocket was presented to the
+shippers to hand over to the collector. On the road to the
+custom-house, however, with ready pen they added a _ty_ to the
+seven or nine (or whatever it might be) in the space which was
+cunningly left for that purpose, making it of course _seventy_ or
+_ninety_; and as no questions were asked by the collector, they
+were in this manner enabled, from 100 hogsheads of the actual
+growth of the island, to ship from time to time more than the
+above number of 1000 hogsheads. This practice of evading the law
+(while they soothed their own consciences) gave rise to these
+shipments being called the "T. Y. sugar," as will be remembered
+by many to this day.
+
+Guiana and Cochran Island also produced sugar at one time; and in
+1725, it was enacted by the legislature, that if the proprietors
+of those islands, as well as Long Island, suffered any loss from
+the inroads of the enemy, they should be reimbursed from the
+public treasury as well as any other inhabitant of Antigua.
+
+Following the line of coast from the north, before we once more
+make the harbour of St. John's, we meet with, another "guard," in
+the shape of a small island, bearing direct west from English
+Harbour, with a reef running three miles into the sea, and which
+is known as _South_ Sandy Island. This is also very dangerous to
+unwary mariners, particularly when the storm king rides the
+blast, and "warns the devoted wretch of woe and death."
+
+But, with all its rocks and breakers, beautiful, very beautiful
+are the scenes which present themselves to your notice, as,
+seated upon the deck of some vessel, whose graceful sails are
+filled with a fresh and favourable breeze, you skirt along the
+sunny shores of lovely little Antigua. It has happened, in some
+of my frequent trips around the island, that, although the breeze
+has been fair, it was so light as scarcely to lift the canvas
+from the mast. But yet, the disappointment of not gaining land so
+soon as we expected has been amply compensated for by the
+beauties we have had more time to discover. Overhead is the
+sweet, clear blue of the sky, here and there dotted with a cloud
+so fair, that it might serve to pillow a sleeping Juno; and
+beneath, the crystal waters sparkling like gold in the beams of
+the blazing sun. In some parts, the green mountains descend to
+the very shore; while in others a calm and silent glen opens upon
+your sight, and the zephyr comes laden to you with the scent of
+its various flowers. Numerous creeks run far inland, and appear
+amid the surrounding verdure like chains of silver; and here and
+there a few negro huts lie nestling among a clump of splendid
+trees, with their neat-looking provision-grounds spread before
+them. As you pass Grace Bay, the land looks sprinkled over with
+gold, from the flowers of the aloe, (_aloe vulgaris_,) which
+grows there in vast profusion; and the shore is bordered with
+sand, on which Amphitrite and her train might love to dance, and
+wreathe their flowery locks with the dropping seaweeds. And thus
+we while away the day, enjoying an ever-changing panorama, until
+the glorious sun reaches the west, and throws his rich beams on
+every cloud which "throngs to pavilion him." Suddenly he appears
+to touch the bosom of the flaming waves; and then sending forth
+one long vivid line of glory, sinks to rest on his golden couch.
+
+Now comes "still evening" on, and Hesperus and all "the starry
+host" people the heavens, until at length the moon
+
+   "Shews her broad visage in the crimson'd east,"
+
+and robs them of their brightness. And there she paces through
+those azure fields, not with the cold, pale aspect she wears in
+my own severer clime, but with the glow, the fervour, with which,
+in other days, she was wont, as "fabling poets" sing, to visit
+Endymion on the flowery heights of Latmus. Lovely is it, at such
+a time, to lean over the vessel's side, and watch the limpid
+waves, as they throw up their sparkling foam. All turbulent
+passions die away--a pleasing calm ensues--and then, casting
+aside all heathen folly, and allowing the mind to revel at its
+will, come thoughts, indistinct, but beautiful, and dreamy
+imaginings of that happy land, where
+
+   "The crystaline stream, bursting forth from the throne,
+    Flows on, and for ever will flow;
+    Its waves, as they roll, are with melody rife,
+    And its waters are sparkling with beauty and life,
+    In the land which no mortal may know."
+
+But earth's chains are still about us, and the fairest scenes may
+prove the most deadly. A kind voice warns me of the increasing
+cold of the night-breeze; and as the last inch of the cable
+slides through the hawse-hole, and the tremor of the vessel, as
+it is suddenly stopped in its course, shews we have anchored for
+the night, I leave the cool air upon deck for the confinement of
+the cabin, with a prayer of thankfulness upon my lips for my
+frequent safe trips across the "blue waters," and a hope that
+to-morrow's dawn will bring us safely to shore.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[58] The Scotch and Irish, in addition to the Union Jack, hoist a
+distinctive national signal.
+
+[59] Droughers are small vessels used for conveying the produce
+of the island from the neighbouring bays to the shipping.
+
+[60] At that period, the mails from the different islands were
+conveyed to St. Thomas's, in small vessels employed for that
+purpose, from whence they were despatched to England in one of
+her Majesty's packets.
+
+[61] Formerly called Guiana Island, from the English settlers who
+emigrated thither from Guiana, when that country was surrendered
+to the Dutch by the treaty of Breda. The name is now corrupted to
+Guana.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XV.
+
+
+
+  The extent of Antigua--Opinion of some planters--Want of
+  agricultural labourers--Emigration not always profitable to the
+  negroes--"Seizar's" letter upon the subject--Return of
+  emigrants--Soil of Antigua--Geological matters--Petrifactions--
+  Climate of Antigua--"Yellow fever"--Beautiful evenings--the
+  appearance of the heavens--Evening visitants.
+
+Antigua, as already shewn in another part of this work, contains
+about 60,000 acres: of which, probably, four-fifths are in a
+state of cultivation. It was the opinion of many planters, soon
+after emancipation, that the mountainous estates must, in great
+measure, be neglected, as the steadiness of the negroes is not
+always to be relied upon; and from the difficulties of the land,
+the plough would be almost useless. These prognostications have
+not been fulfilled--at least, no such instance has ever come
+under my notice; on the contrary, in my rides through the country
+I have seen many spots of land, which once bore only grass or
+wild shrubs, planted with canes, and bearing the title of "a
+sugar estate," which, I feel assured, had slavery continued,
+would never have been cultivated.
+
+Still agricultural labourers are wanted; many of the negroes that
+were thus employed, while in a state of bondage, think it a
+disgrace to follow such patriarchal occupations now they are
+free. They therefore quit the country, take up the business of a
+mason or a carpenter, or something of the sort; and the result
+is, that not being competent, they are unable to procure work,
+and are idling about the street all day, until some vessel from
+the southern colonies, looking out for emigrants, holds out the
+temptation of _high wages_, which is ignorantly caught at by the
+negro; and he leaves his native island, his wife and children,
+without remorse, until sickness seizes him, and he is returned
+upon the country an emaciated being, unable to work at all.
+
+Emigration is not always profitable to the negro, even if he
+retains his health. Many, many of them, would gladly return, were
+they not bound for a certain number of years by the captains of
+the emigration vessels, (who make a complete trade of it by
+selling their indentures,) or else taken so far up the country as
+too often prohibit such resolve. A clever letter appeared in one
+of the West Indian newspapers some time ago, supposed to have
+been written from a negro at St. Kitts to his friend of the same
+dye, who had emigrated to Demerara, which I will insert for the
+amusement of the reader:--
+
+                                         "Sink Hitts, July ----.
+
+"Deer Pomp Eye,
+
+"You no I tould you how it wood be, but you all ways were a wild
+nagur, and wood neber hear reeson, and lubbed to follow your
+hedstrong ways. But now you are suffering for it, an I hope
+you'll repent, as good Massa Parson says. You no you had no right
+to run away and leabe you yong pic'nees here to starbe. It was a
+most wicked act, but I 'spose the Capen who took you away will be
+made to support 'em as he ought. You are all no better dan
+Caraline who sent our fren Mushel's pic'nee widout him knowing at
+all 'bout it, to Jimmy Radder (Demerara), having sold him me
+magin to de Capen. What you say 'bout de Spaniards is all bery
+true, an likely to happen, an me tink wid you our Capens are not
+to be trusted, for you no what our fren Fletcher did for which he
+get hang--how he carry off Nagers from Nevis, and trowed dem in
+de sea and drowned dem. Now me no tink dese Capens will trow de
+Nagurs in de sea, but me tink it bery like dat dey will hab
+private signell wid de Spaniards, who will way lay an take de
+nagurs away at sea--for de Spaniards will gib de Capens two times
+as much for de free Nagurs to make slabes of dem, as de Capens
+can get in Jimmy Radder. I hab seen de skul of Fletcher, for me
+be sumthing of a _free-no-low-gist_ (phrenologist), and I assure
+you de skul of dese Capens hab gist de same _bumps_. And not only
+dis, Massa Pomp Eye, but dere is de law of Englan dat a vessel
+shall carry passengers cording to he size, dat is, so many Nagurs
+to so many tun, now dese Capens do break dis law an dese vessels
+is lible to be seezed and comphiz catted. Dis law was made as me
+told, to make all de peeple cumfurble dat all may hab room to
+walk 'bout an lie down, an sleep, an eat, an go safe, an to
+perwent de Capens from sack wry facing dem passengers, and no
+noting 'bout dere bizness, for see how dey cram de Nagurs in like
+toze in de shu, an only de oder day a vessel ful of Nagurs sprung
+a plank off Mons' rat an was sinking fast an de Capen noed noting
+at all 'bout it until a noder ship met him an told him he was
+going down and dat all he poor Nagurs wood be drown. Oh! Pomp
+Eye, de Nagurs here be great fool for leabing dis bootiful
+country for sich muddy place as Jimmy Radder. Here dey hab plenty
+of fish from de sea, an dem dere be sich bootiful riber from de
+monting, an sich nice water to drink,--and dere is plenty of wood
+to cut, and dere is salt-fish, an pork, an beef, an all so cheap
+--an here nagurs be sirvalized, an de men an wimmin were cloze
+which dey do not do in Jimmy Radder, an on Sunday dey all go
+church an hab fine tings on. I'm told dat in Jimmy Radder dey
+can't boil or roast dere plantins widout de wurrums (worms)
+crying and crawling out, an dat derefore dey mash 'em up all
+togedder in de pot an so eat dem. Brutes! Is de nagur of Jimmy
+Radder like our Nagurs? Hab dey any beerds? I heer dey hab scales
+like de fishes from lying in de mud an water, an dat dere
+shoulder bones stick out like de fins of one fish. An dis is de
+reeson our wimmin nagurs go to Jimmy Radder, _for de wimmin
+always lobe de monsters_. Don't fret you self Massa Pomp Eye
+'bout de dollars for I neber expect 'em. Me no 'tis all de same
+in de end, if you be paid one quarter dollar here for working, an
+on half dollar dere, for de tings for eat an drink are twice as
+deer dere as dey be here, widout being half so good eder. No, no
+--me be content--me no like snakes an wurrum an dose tings you
+hab in Jemmy Radder--me lobe me fader land, an no like _mud_.
+Here we all be Cristan an can reed and rite, an no be naked
+savages like aw you. Your poor yong ones send dere lobe to you--
+but dey shant want bread to eat, as long as your fren Seizer
+libes.--So good bi, an rub you body wid rum to get rid of de
+hagur, (ague.)
+
+                          "Your fren,
+
+                                                       "Seizar."
+
+So much for "Massa Seizar's" letter. I am not aware who is the
+actual writer of it; but the reasoning he puts into "Seizar's"
+mouth is sound, and by the form in which it is presented may not
+improbably produce more effect than a graver production.
+
+The soil of Antigua is composed of two distinct sorts; the one, a
+rich black mould on a substratum of clay; the other, a stiff
+reddish clay, mixed with sand, upon a substratum of marl. The
+former of these is very productive when not suffering from those
+excessive droughts to which this island is particularly subject;
+but the latter is generally overrun with that species of herbage,
+known as "Devil Grass," (_Cynodon dactylon_,) which it is almost
+impossible to exterminate. Still, Antigua is one of the most
+fertile of the West India islands, and produces, in proportion, a
+larger crop than most of her sister colonies. The land requires,
+it is true, a quantity of manure, which is one reason for estates
+keeping such large herds of cattle as they do; but with the
+assistance of that, and the blessing of the "o'ercharged clouds,"
+she seldom disappoints the hopes of her planters; while her sugar
+stands as high as any in the English markets, and her _rum_ has
+long been known for its pre-eminent qualities.
+
+The mountains contain beautiful varieties of fossils, and other
+geological curiosities. Among these may be found in the
+south-west chain, masses of trap, breccia, wacke, porphyry, &c.;
+and in the inland parallel chain, splendid specimens of coralline
+schist, agate, jasper, chalcedony, amydoloid, cornelian, and
+silicified wood are to be met with, of which I need only raise my
+eyes to those collected before me to say how beautiful they are.
+These are generally found embedded in a matrix of a deep green
+colour, which of itself is very pretty, and when well arranged in
+buildings with the native free-stone, have a very good effect.
+
+In the northern districts are found fragments of limestone,
+containing fossil shells, spars, and crystals of quartz. This
+chain, running north and south, is supposed to pass under the
+sea, forming a reef, and reappearing at Monserrat: it is said
+that the fish found upon this reef are particularly poisonous.
+
+"Church Hill," as it is termed, from the fact of the church being
+erected upon it, has been found to be composed of schist,
+enveloped in marl, and is particularly rich in its fossil shells.
+Thanks to the new flight of steps which have been lately erected,
+and the modifications made around that sacred building, (which
+has obliged the workmen to blast the rock,) I have been enabled
+to collect some fine varieties. Among these are conchs, cockles,
+&c., in which the striae are perfect, and some of them are
+beautifully crystalized.
+
+In almost all parts of the island petrifactions are to be met
+with. Among the most beautiful of those I have seen, may be
+enumerated red cedar, with agate intermixed; roots and branches
+of cocoa-nut trees; plantain stalks, with beautiful lines of
+agate running through them; a species of palm; a root of the
+dagger, (_aloe vulgaris_;) the black mangrove, a branch of a
+tree, supposed to be the ceibar, or silk-cotton, with cornelian;
+besides many other varieties. Ochres of various colours are also
+to be dug in some districts; and in most parts of the island are
+quarries of stone; but they are not generally made an article of
+traffic.
+
+In some parts of the island are salt ponds, which might be worked
+to advantage here as well as at St. Kitts and Turk's Island; but
+the Antiguans are not of an enterprising spirit; at least, all
+their attention is bestowed upon the cultivation of the
+sugar-cane, and if that succeeds, they are perfectly satisfied.
+Were it otherwise, there are many productions which might prove
+important and beneficial articles of commerce. Tobacco grows
+spontaneously about the country; coffee has become naturalized,
+and grows wild; it is said to be inferior in quality to that
+which grows in the other islands; but would not culture do much
+for it? Cotton, ginger, palma Christi,--all are disregarded; even
+the pimento is left to decay in its loveliness, and its fragrant
+fruit serves but to feed the feathered tribe; except when, at
+Christmas, its odorous boughs are gathered to flavour the
+plum-puddings of the negroes, or decorate the churches and
+houses, as the holly does in England.
+
+Although the islands of the West Indies, being all situated
+between the Tropics, are, as regards climate, very similar, yet
+Antigua is generally reckoned more salubrious than any of the
+others. Possibly, the reason of this may be attributed to the
+dryness of the soil, for we have no rivers, and very few marshes,
+as in many of the other islands, to exhale any degree of
+humidity. The towns are now also kept very clean and wholesome,
+particularly the capital, so that island seldom suffers from any
+pestilential diseases. The "Yellow Fever," that dreaded scourge
+of the West Indies, has, however, frequently raged here to great
+extent, particularly in former years. In 1793 it was very violent
+in its effects--nearly the whole of the inhabitants of St. John's
+fell ill with it, and many deaths occurred. It broke out in the
+shipping in the harbour, and was supposed to have been brought
+ashore in a blanket, which had been wrapt round a person who had
+fallen a victim to it. In 1816 it again appeared, but not to such
+extent; but after the hurricane, in 1835, it raged with much
+virulence,--snatched many a young and beloved one from the family
+circle--separated parent and child--severed the holy bands of
+matrimony, and laid its victims in the cold and silent grave.
+
+It was supposed to be occasioned by the different effluvia which
+tainted the air after the gale; particularly that from the filth,
+which had for so many years been accumulating at the bottom of
+the harbour, and which, from the violence of the wind, had been
+completely stirred up.
+
+The warmest months of the year are June, July, and August. The
+sun, when not obscured by the density of the clouds, shines with
+a burning lustre; and did he not
+
+   "------ kind before him send
+    The genial breeze, to mitigate his fire,
+    And breathe refreshment on a fainting world,"
+
+the heat would be insupportable.
+
+The meridian height of the thermometer, during this season, is,
+in the shade, about 80 deg., and the other parts of the year 70
+deg.; but I have observed the mercury to be, from the end of June
+to the end of August, from 86 deg. to 90 deg., and often even
+higher. The sun is vertical at Antigua on the 7th of May and the
+5th of August; and consequently on those days the inhabitants are
+ascii at noon.
+
+September, and the two succeeding months, are generally reckoned
+the most unhealthy periods of the year. At one moment, the sun
+darts its rays with an intensity almost insupportable, while the
+sea-breeze (that friend to sufferers from "all-conquering heat")
+dies away, and a slothful calm prevails; at other times, the sun
+is hidden by black portentous clouds; the air is chilly and
+unwholesome, and rank and noxious vapours are abroad.
+
+The longest day consists of about 13 hours; the shortest about
+ten. In these latitudes, there is scarcely any aurora, or
+twilight, so that it is scarcely light until the sun is up, and
+soon after he sets, it becomes dark.
+
+Suffering as the inhabitants do, from the great heat of the days,
+the delightful evenings are particularly enjoyed. No sooner has
+the sun hidden his rays in the bosom of the ocean, than the
+land-breeze arises; this, blowing as it were from the centre of
+the island, towards the sea, appears to come from all points of
+the compass at once. Evening is the time for walking; and often
+have I seen beautiful faces, and bright eyes, gleaming in the
+moonbeams.
+
+Every author who has written about these "sunburnt isles," has, I
+think, mentioned the beauties of a West Indian night, and well
+worthy is it to be praised. The sky is of a deeper and more
+lovely blue, almost approximating to violet; and the atmosphere
+is so much clearer than in England, that many stars are visible
+to the naked eye which there require the aid of a telescope. The
+larger planets glitter with a refulgence unknown to more
+temperate latitudes--
+
+   "With purest ray,
+    Sweet Venus shines,"
+
+and appears almost like another moon. Mars rolls on in eternal
+solitude, shewing his broad red face to our wondering gaze.
+Bright-eyed Jove, with his "atmospheric belt," almost blinds us
+with his lustre; while the galaxy (or milky way) looks like--
+
+   "A circling zone, powder'd with stars;"
+
+thus they glide on in their beauty--
+
+   "Bright wanderers o'er the blue sky free;"
+
+but oh! when our own attendant planet, the "Silver Queen of
+night," rises in peerless majesty, shedding a flood of glory over
+all the surrounding landscape, the scene is inexpressibly lovely.
+How often, when enjoying her beams, and gazing on her "spotted
+disk," have I thought of those lines of Mrs. Charlotte Smith--
+
+   "And while I gaze, thy mild and placid light
+    Sheds a soft calm upon my troubled breast;
+    And oft I think, fair planet of the night,
+    That in thy orb the wretched might find rest."
+
+The stillness and calmness of an English summer's evening have
+been often and often described by our poets; here, however, no
+quietness is to be met with, but on the contrary all is bustle
+and noise. Sounds of every description fill the air, as soon as
+"evening grey" sets in. Parties of negroes, men, women, and
+children, gather together in groups, worthy the illustrative
+pencil of Cruikshank, to gabble away their _nancy stories_,
+relate their quarrels, or discuss the other business of the day.
+Bats of every size and shape fly backwards and forwards in search
+of their prey, or pay you an unceremonious visit through the open
+_jalousies_ of your houses. Crickets and frogs raise their shrill
+pipes, which grate most unmusically upon the ear; cock-roaches
+(those disgusting pests of the West Indies) crawl over the
+floors, or ceilings of the apartments, or at times take the
+liberty of brushing in your face, or nestling in your hair;
+mosquitoes hum their monotonous song, or insert their proboscis
+into every accessible part of your flesh; while the land crabs
+clatter about, just like an old woman in pattens. The houses are
+lighted up as if for an illumination, the windows are thrown open
+to admit the evening air, and the fair inhabitants amuse
+themselves by playing upon harpsichords, or similar musical
+instruments, "Blue Bells of Scotland," "Home, Sweet Home," and
+other popular melodies.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XVI.
+
+
+
+  Scenery of Antigua--Pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring"--The
+  Goddess Mnemosyne--Fig-Tree Hill--The "Bower of Bliss"--"Old
+  Road"--The Strand--The cross sexton--The parochial school--Old
+  Road Church--Tomb of Col. Williams--Moravian settlement--Salt
+  ponds--Copses--"Crab Hill"--Sandy Valley--The Valley Church--
+  The rising moon--Arrival in town--Night, and night dreams.
+
+With respect to the scenery of Antigua, it is said to be neither
+"grand nor magnificent," that "its mountains are too much like
+mole-hills,"[62] and in many other ways has it been depreciated;
+yet there are some spots of real beauty, which would strike the
+eye of even a painter or a poet. To see some of these to the
+greatest advantage, I would advise all such readers as have it in
+their power to take a drive or a ride (whichever they prefer)
+some fine morning to "Fig Tree Hill," and return by "Crab Hill."
+They will then meet with spots of such transcendent loveliness,
+as will cause the most unpoetic to exclaim, "Beautiful!
+beautiful!" But as some of my readers, perhaps, may never have
+the chance of taking such a tour, in pity to them, I will attempt
+to describe what I saw in my pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring."
+
+It was a lovely morning (as most West India mornings are) when we
+started upon our journey. The sun shone bright and clear; indeed,
+far too clear for actual comfort, had we gone as "pilgrims grey,"
+with "scalloped hat," and "sandled shoon," and resting on our
+"staves;" but we preferred the less romantic, but more pleasant
+way of taking it quietly in our carriage. Quickly we passed
+through the town of St. John's, leaving its busy inmates, its
+shops and stores, its "Scotch row" and Scotchmen, and all its
+noise and bustle, for the quietness and freshness of the country.
+Upon gaining "Otto's Hill," at the outskirts of the town, I
+looked back upon the beautiful harbour of St. John's, its blue
+waves just rippling the surface, its barques and brigs, schooners
+and sloops, bowing their heads as if in graceful homage to some
+sea-god from old King Neptune's court; and its sloping shores
+displaying a carpet of luxuriant green, for a little rain which
+had fallen not long before had clothed the fields in a garb of
+lovely verdure. While thinking upon all these beauties, and the
+images they called up, my poetic fancies were crushed by the
+horrible noise of a long string of "cattle carts" and their sable
+drivers, coming into town with a load of molasses for "Brother
+Jonathan," or some other worthy. This brought me down from the
+seventh heaven, and made me just then find out that it was very
+_hot_, and the road disagreeably dusty. However, in our
+pilgrimage through life, we meet with many crosses, and many
+_dusty spots_; and therefore, in our pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's
+Spring," we could but expect the same.
+
+The country certainly looked very pretty upon this eventful day,
+for every spot was green, and as we passed the numerous estates,
+an air of gladness seemed to be abroad. The breeze blew soft from
+off the mountains we were approaching, and greeted our olfactory
+nerves with the odour of the yellow acacia, which grew along the
+side of the road in vast profusion. In a short time, we reached
+the banks of a small rivulet, the only real stream Antigua can
+boast of, for the few others we passed owed their source more to
+the late rains than anything else. This rivulet was bordered by
+bamboos, and other species of wild cane, while larger trees, in
+many parts, shewed their gnarled roots, and bent their long
+boughs to kiss the swift gliding waters. Various aquatic plants
+grew along its margin, while in the stream itself sported my own
+country's water-lily, bright nymphaea. Near to the spot stands a
+rural little temple of worship, with its plain white walls, and a
+little cross upon its roof, and across the rivulet is thrown a
+rustic bridge. This is a favourite resort for country
+washerwomen, and as we passed, many of them were busily engaged
+in their very necessary avocations; but as none of them presented
+the appearance of a nymph or a naiad, I will not introduce them
+to my readers.
+
+We had heard of the bad state of the roads before we left our
+home, of the hills we had to mount, and the dingles we had to go
+down; of the terrible ravines on one side, and the bare rocks on
+the other, and of places where the least swerve of the carriage
+would send us over, and then, according to our informant, "it
+would be no use to go look for you." At every turn of the road,
+then, we looked for some trial, and "screwed up our courage to
+the sticking-point," that we might be enabled to overcome them;
+but after travelling for some time, and meeting with nothing very
+terrific, we began to console ourselves, and remark, that the
+difficulties appeared to lie in the imagination. At length, we
+came to a pretty steep hill, which we surmounted in due time, and
+again sped on our way joyfully, thinking that all was very fair,
+when lo! up rose before us, if not a _mountain_, at least, a
+_giant hill_. Here would be the "tug of war," so we called a
+council. "What is to be done?" was the first query. "Why, either
+_go on_ or _go back_" was the answer. The old adage of "out of
+two evils, choose the least," came into our thoughts. There was
+the hill behind, and the hill before, so we agreed to lay the
+various "for's" and "against's" before us in a very orthodox
+manner.
+
+To commence then: if we go on, we must mount this hill, but when
+we have accomplished that, we shall have no other of great
+consequence; we were near half way, so we should have almost as
+far to go back as to go on; on the other side, if we returned, we
+should still have a hill before us, and not have the consolation
+of visiting the celebrated "fig-tree." Having come to the
+conclusion of our arguments, the word was given "forward," and
+forward we attempted to go; but there were some of our party
+whose opinions had not been asked, but who, no doubt, felt as
+great concern in the decision as any one else; I mean those very
+noble animals ycleped "horses," and for reasons my readers may
+easily conceive they appeared resolved not to proceed. After a
+few words of encouragement, however, and a few caresses, they
+agreed to lend us their aid, and once more we started.
+
+During the period that all this momentous business was going on,
+we had totally neglected the appearance of the weather, and had
+not a drop or two of rain fallen, and the sound of a distant clap
+of thunder echoed round us, I dare say we should not have thought
+upon such a subject. Here, then, was romance; a thunder-storm,
+and "Sawcolt Hill"--it only wanted an old castle and a horde of
+banditti to make it a scene worthy the pen of a "Radcliffe." The
+lambent lightning played for awhile, and the thunder bellowed
+through the boundless sky, and then passed slowly away to the
+west, very much to my satisfaction. "Sawcolt Hill" was ascended,
+and descended, and the road became more beautiful at every turn,
+until at length we stood by the side of the noted freshwater
+spring. And what then were my reflections? I thought it was
+lovely in everything but its name--"Tom Moore's Spring!" Who, in
+the name of all that's romantic, could call such a spring by such
+a name? Had it been the "fairy's spring," or the "spring of the
+mountain sylph," or something of the kind, it would have sounded
+as it ought, and some charming legend might have been attached.
+But who could ever inquire after "Tom Moore?" Why, the name of
+such a being puts all fancies to the flight!
+
+Thus far had my thoughts wandered, when suddenly, an ideal form
+passed before me; her sweet and classic countenance--her eyes
+which mocked the heavens in their dye--her long and silken lashes
+which drank the dew of her vermilion cheeks, all conspired to
+render me entranced. A blue mantle floated from her shoulders,
+and a thousand graces hovered round her steps. As she glided
+away, she placed one of her taper fingers upon her ruby lips,
+and, in a voice of liquid sweetness, uttered the word,
+"Remember!" I knew her for the goddess "Mnemosyne," and I tried
+to follow her behest. My beautiful goddess assisted me, and
+brought to my recollection that "Bulbul of a thousand songs,"
+that sweet rhymer who charms us with his "bower of roses by
+Bendameer's stream," as with his melodies of the "Emerald Isle,"
+he who bears the well-known appellation of "Tom Moore." I
+remembered all this to my shame, and determined in future never
+to utter one word against it, did all the springs in Antigua bear
+that name. After making this resolution, I turned once more to
+inspect "Tom Moore's Spring." The water is as clear as crystal,
+and of a refreshing coolness; and as it trickles from beneath the
+roots of a large bamboo growing by, each drop looks like liquid
+pearl. It has never been known to be dry, let the season be what
+it will, and consequently must be of inexpressible value to the
+adjoining estates. It was formerly built round with a stone wall,
+but that has long ago fallen to ruin, and no one has troubled
+himself to erect it again. I blame none, however, upon this
+score, for, in my opinion, it looks more romantic as it is;
+nature has done much for it, and art would only spoil her work.
+
+After leaving the spring, another height presented itself,
+clothed with luxuriant woods. This was "Fig-tree Hill," and no
+description I have ever heard of it has sufficiently set forth
+its beauty. Upon one side of the road is a deep ravine, whose
+irregular descent is hidden by trees of every description, which
+cover it to the bottom, and again ascend upon the opposite bank,
+until they reach the top of the neighbouring mountain; on the
+other side are sloping hills, carpeted with the gayest emerald.
+This beautiful hill takes its name from several large fig-trees
+which grow around; and from its highest point can be distinctly
+seen, upon a clear day, the four islands of Guadaloupe,
+Monserrat, Nevis, and St. Kitts.
+
+After remaining upon the height for some time, and enjoying the
+extensive prospect, we prepared to descend; but how to describe
+the loveliness of the path, I know not. We alighted and walked
+down, that nothing might escape our observation. Trees of all
+species abound, and--
+
+   "With confessed magnificence deride
+    Our vile attire, and impotence of pride."
+
+The lofty "red cedar," the beautiful "white-wood," the
+glossy-green "loblolly," the treacherous "manchineel," which
+invites your approach by its beautiful fruit, while it infects
+you with its poisonous odours; the enormous "ceibar," (or silk
+cotton,) the native "walnut," (which in every tree presents such
+varying shades of green,) and the splendid "tamarind," shade each
+side of the road, and cover the surrounding hills.
+
+In many places, huge masses of fantastic rocks rear their bare
+fronts to the heavens; some taking the form of old castles, with
+their frowning battlements and strong ramparts; and others
+looking as if about to fall into the valleys beneath.
+
+Just at the termination of the first descent is one of the
+sweetest spots in Antigua. It is one of tranquillity and repose.
+The fierce beams of the sun are excluded by the umbrageous
+foliage of the trees, around whose trunks various creepers
+entwine themselves, and throw their slender limbs from one to the
+other of these
+
+   "Green-robed senators of mighty woods,"
+
+forming many beauteous alcoves, carpeted with the lowlier
+flowers; whilst the "purple wreath" hangs its tasseled blossoms
+on all sides, and gives an air of lightness to the whole. A
+little silver stream (one of those the offspring of the balmy
+showers before mentioned) crossed the road in this part; and
+after leaping over roots of trees, or any other slight impediment
+which fell in its way, and thereby causing a thousand translucent
+waterfalls, at length lost itself in the impending woods. Oh! it
+was a lovely scene, and put me very much in mind of Spenser's
+"Bower of Bliss;" particularly when
+
+   "Was heard a most melodious sound
+    Of all that could delight a curious ear;
+    Such as might not upon terrestrial ground,
+    Save in this paradise, be heard elsewhere.
+    Full hard it was for him, who did it hear,
+    To guess what sort of music this might be;
+    For all that pleasing is to living ear
+    Were there soft mingled in one harmony:
+    Birds, voices, instruments, winds, waters, all agree."
+
+This was a true delineation; for although most tropical birds are
+devoid of song, the "painted warblers" might here be said to hop
+"from spray to spray." The pretty little humming-bird fluttered
+among the flowers, extracting from them, with its long and
+slender beak, the liquid honey; and the doves courted each other
+with soft, but melancholy cooing, from many a leafy brake. Upon
+my remarking I never before heard birds _sing_ in the West
+Indies, our negro-servant joined the conversation with--"Oh,
+missis! if you was to come here early in the moring, before the
+sun high, you would hear the birds singing in such a manner, that
+it would make you feel quite dismal all de day." The first time I
+ever heard of the song of a bird producing such an effect.
+
+But to return to my description of this sweetest of all sweet
+spots. Did we live in "days of yore," when fairies were wont to
+visit our world, and astonish the benighted swains with their
+glittering processions, we could fancy this one of their
+favourite retreats; but, alas! those harmless goblins have long
+disappeared, and with them all moonlight revels. The negroes,
+however, are determined it shall not be without some aerial
+visitants, so have peopled it with a tribe of _jumbies_, who,
+according to their account, are very different in behaviour and
+appearance to the pretty little elves.
+
+After carving our names upon the trunk of a noble tree, which
+appears to grow out of a rock, we proceeded on our journey
+through the same lovely scenes, which now became interspersed
+with palm-trees, until we entered upon a plain, on one side
+studded over with ruined Carib houses, and on the other, laid out
+in luxuriant cane-pieces, belonging to the Hon. Rowland E.
+Williams, the descendant of a long line of noble ancestors, and
+whose paternal domain extends throughout the lovely scenes I have
+been endeavouring to describe. A few minutes' drive brought us to
+"Old Road," so called because it was the first high-road made in
+Antigua.
+
+This town, if town it can be called, is, as regards architective
+arrangement, a perfect nondescript; for streets there are none,
+but here and there a straggling house. There is the _beach_,
+indeed, which may justly be termed "_the strand_;" but, unlike
+that far-famed street in London, boasts no splendid shops--no
+arcades or bazaars, with their "euterpeons"--no brilliant lines
+of lamps, or crowds of well-dressed and busy passengers. A
+plentiful supply of bushes and "rock-stones" (as the Creoles call
+all descriptions of stones) make up for those deficiencies; and
+the murmur of old Father Ocean is the only music heard. Of the
+houses which are to be found, a few of them are in repair; but
+the greater part are falling to ruin, and have become a
+receptacle for hordes of green lizards. One of these buildings
+struck me as rather peculiar in appearance. Nothing remained of
+it, it is true, but the walls of rough masonry, with huge
+gable-ends pointing to the skies; but still it seemed as the work
+of another race of beings. Upon making inquiries about it, an
+inhabitant informed us her grandmother (who had died several
+years before, at the advanced age of 116) remembered it in the
+same ruinous state from her earliest years; but we could learn no
+further particulars.
+
+Our principal object for visiting "Old Road," was to see a
+tombstone in the church, laid down to the memory of Col. Rowland
+Williams; and consequently, as soon as we arrived, our first
+inquiry was for the person who kept the keys of the church, and
+who acts in the capacity of sexton. While waiting for this
+official, we walked down to the beach. The harbour is a very fine
+one, and forms a complete rotund, except in the opening, where
+the sea stretches out beyond ken. A line of smooth silver sand
+borders the sea, diversified with clumps of mangrove, manchineel,
+and sea-side grapes; while here and there a cocoa-nut tree rears
+aloft its proud head, as if scorning to herd with the lowlier of
+its kind. For some time we amused ourselves with picking up
+various small shells, matted sea-weed, and corallines, which were
+scattered about the beach in profusion; but the heat,
+notwithstanding the fresh sea-breeze, was beginning to be felt
+oppressive; when turning the angle of one of the old buildings, a
+man with a bunch of keys in his hand appeared in sight.
+
+Although not always the case, still very generally, the face is
+the index to the mind; and when I first saw that man, I felt
+prejudiced against him. He came forward with a slovenly gait, and
+downcast looks, and to our inquiries for the keys of the church,
+he returned for answer, "Yes, but I can't let you in." On asking
+the reason, the rejoinder was, "Because the parson told me not to
+let any one go into the church." This was by no means cheering
+news for us; it was far from satisfactory after riding fifteen
+miles, to be turned away without seeing the very object we came
+to look at. Every kind of persuasion was used to induce him to
+comply. I joined in urging him to "ope' the door, and bid us
+enter," but alas! I found him as insensible to the voice of
+woman, as to everything else. "Can we go into the churchyard?"
+was then inquired. "Yes," was the surly answer; and following his
+steps, we soon reached that quiet spot.
+
+Even here he apparently viewed us with suspicion, thinking,
+perhaps, we not only looked capable of _sacrilege_, but of
+carrying away the church also; for although he still had the keys
+in his hand, and the rain began to fall, he not only remained
+inexorable, but looked as if he should be quite as well pleased
+if we quitted the place altogether. "The rain was falling fast,"
+and obliged us to retire to the shelter of a large white-wood
+tree, which no doubt was coeval with the first settlers, and
+beneath its spreading branches we remained for some time, until
+one of our party determined to try some other expedient, to gain
+the wished-for admittance, and for that purpose left myself and
+attendant in our shady retreat.
+
+After the lapse of about a quarter of an hour, a well-known voice
+was heard; and at an opening in the leafy covert, the person it
+proceeded from appeared, accompanied by a female. This was the
+parochial school-mistress; and a kind-hearted creature she
+appeared to be. She immediately sent in search of the cross
+sexton, and promised to take upon herself the responsibility of
+letting our party into the church; but the man was not to be
+found--he had left the town, and carried the keys with him. With
+native politeness, Miss Austin (as the worthy school-mistress was
+called) invited us to rest in her house until she could make
+further inquiries after the "keys;" and following our
+conductress, we shortly arrived at her residence, where (with a
+very warrantable kind of pride) she informed us, her mother was
+born, and married, and had reared eight children. Long before we
+gained the house, the hum of little voices was heard; and upon
+approaching the open door, about forty children, who formed the
+school, rose up, and commenced singing, "We make our obeisance to
+you, ma'am," to the tune of "L--a--w, Law;" while a parrot,
+suspended from a beam, if she did not _sing_, at least
+_screeched_ in chorus. After looking at these little negroes for
+some time, and inspecting the simple decorations of their
+school-room, we were ushered up stairs, and introduced to Miss
+Austin's two sisters.
+
+I cannot help speaking more fully of the polite behaviour of this
+trio. I came among them a perfect stranger, my name even being
+unknown, and in all probability never again to meet in this
+world; but every little attention possible was lavished upon me,
+the choicest produce of their garden tendered, and without the
+least parade. I have mixed with society in a far higher grade,
+where courtly manners prevail, and every art is tried to invest
+each action with a polished grace; but often, very often, has
+less native good-breeding, fewer sterling qualities of the mind
+been displayed than I found in the sisters of "Old Road." They
+are not like the generality of persons in their line of life;
+hospitality indeed is, I believe, a virtue which most of them
+possess; but there was no aping of their betters, as is too
+frequently the case with this class of people; no flying away,
+when we came so suddenly upon them, to put on a brass chain, or a
+string of glass beads; or to take off an untidy wrapper, to
+enrobe themselves in a smart gown; their neat dresses and
+snow-white collars, like beauty, needed not "the foreign aid of
+ornament."
+
+Many a beautiful tree grew around their humble dwelling, and many
+a sweet-scented flower almost entered the open windows. When we
+had rested for a short time, we proceeded to the garden, to see a
+lime-tree. Knowing as I did the blighted state of these trees in
+Antigua, I expected to see a diminutive shrub; what, then, was my
+surprise, upon entering the little paddock, (for it had more the
+appearance of that than a garden,) to see a noble tree, covering
+the space of about fifty square feet, loaded with its fragrant
+fruit to the very ground. Well worthy was it to be looked at!
+well worthy to be praised by an abler pen than mine!--no
+indefinite article could be used to this shrub; it must be called
+_the_ lime tree, and nothing else. While looking, again and
+again, at this beautiful tree--pressing its odorous leaves, and
+inhaling the scent of its golden fruit, the youngest sister
+remarked, "The archdeacon was here the other day, to catechise
+the children, and upon seeing this tree, said it looked as if the
+blessing of God was upon it." And in truth it does appear so, for
+it flourishes on in its beauty in the midst of a burning sand,
+whilst most of its species are blighted and seared.
+
+After leaving the lime-tree, we returned to the house and heard
+the children read a chapter in the Bible, and repeat the gospel,
+which they did very correctly, although some of them had not
+numbered their fifth year, thus proving the pains their tutoress
+takes with them; and then, putting up with our disappointment,
+left for home. As we were passing the church, Mr. Sexton appeared
+to have altered his mind in some degree, for (but with a very
+indifferent grace, it must be owned) he condescended to open the
+church door, and allow us entrance. The church, which is composed
+of hewn stone, is built in the form of a cross, and is noted for
+being the first place of public worship erected in Antigua. There
+is nothing very remarkable in the interior; the walls are plain
+white, and the floor paved with brick; but it is a quiet little
+church, where the good people of that neighbourhood may worship
+their God in peace. Over the altar is an old painting of Moses
+and Aaron in their robes; and under the communion table reposes
+the ashes of him who may be called the founder of the church; for
+he gave the land, and liberally contributed towards its erection.
+This was Col. Rowland Williams, who, as before-mentioned, was
+celebrated for his various good qualities, as well as humanity,
+in a period when the West Indies were generally enveloped in
+moral darkness. The epitaph upon his tomb-stone is inscribed in
+Latin; but as many of my readers no doubt prefer the English
+translation, I will insert it, which I am enabled to do through
+the kindness of the Rev. H. G. Hall.
+
+                Here safely lie in Mother Earth
+            The mortal remains of Rowland Williams.
+                   We are but dust and ashes!
+      He was the first male infant of European extraction
+                 Lawfully born in this island.
+       When he attained to manhood, he conducted himself
+                           As a man,
+     Being equally in military, as in civil life, an honour
+           As well to himself, as to his connexions.
+             In the field, he was a bold commander;
+            In the senate, he was a wise councillor:
+              What avails strength without wisdom?
+       He was a loyal subject of his king, a protector of
+                          His country,
+    A true father to his children, hospitable to his guests,
+              A friend to his friends. In a word,
+                 He was all things to all men.
+            Throughout his whole life he displayed,
+            With health of body, soundness of mind.
+       Possessing the strictest honesty and much wealth.
+                He fell a tardy victim to death,
+              Having survived about eighty years.
+        He was buried the twentieth day of ------ 1713.
+             Since it is certain that we must die,
+        We should without delay take warning against it.
+
+Near the altar is an elegant and chastely ornamented white marble
+tablet, erected to the memory of Mrs. Williams, daughter of Sir
+Patrick Ross, K. C. B., and wife of the Hon. Rowland E. Williams,
+the great-great-grandson of the above Col. Williams. This
+exemplary lady died at the early age of 32; respected by all
+classes, and deeply regretted by those who were honoured with her
+friendship. The following lines are engraved on the tablet:--
+
+   "Death, ere thou canst claim another,
+    Fair, and good, and wise as she,
+    Time shall hurl his dart at _thee_."[63]
+
+After copying these inscriptions, and casting one more glance
+round this rustic church, we returned to our carriage, and
+proceeded on our journey to "Crab Hill." Before relating the rest
+of our adventures, I must remark, that the line of conduct
+pursued by the sexton of "Old Road" is not common in Antigua,
+such officials being generally very obliging.
+
+Near to "Old Road" is a pond, which is formed by the hand of
+nature into a complete bason. It is surrounded with some fine and
+noble trees, which form a screen, and is embellished with a
+variety of odoriferous flowers, which bloom and die unknown and
+uncared for, illustrating those beautiful lines of Gray's--
+
+   "Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
+    And waste its sweetness on the desert air."
+
+Near to this spot is a natural excavation, called the "Devil's
+Punch Bowl," which, although I had often heard it spoken of as
+something very grand, did not cause me much pleasure or
+astonishment, being, in fact, nothing more than a deep hole, with
+a little turbid water at the bottom.
+
+About a stone's throw from "Old Road," on the top of the hill,
+stands a Moravian settlement, with its neat white house and
+chapel; there is always an air of comfort around these
+settlements, which speaks to an English heart; and the Moravians
+themselves are a quiet, well-meaning people, diligent in the
+discharge of their ministerial duties, and earnestly desiring
+their people's welfare. May they meet their reward!
+
+After passing the fort of "Old Road," the next place which
+attracted our notice was the salt ponds, with their fringe of
+mangrove trees and little islands. Innumerable soldier crabs were
+hurrying to and fro,--some looking out for a new coat of mail, in
+the form of a new shell, and others hunting for their prey, which
+is very frequently the weak and small of their own class. The sea
+now burst upon our sight, and added to the beauty of the scene;
+its surface was as smooth and clear as a mirror, except where the
+breakers played over a long reef, which runs far out from shore,
+and threw up their lovely but dangerous spray in measured
+showers,--no wonder the ancients fabled their goddess of beauty
+to have sprung from this sparkling object.
+
+After passing the rectory of St. Mary's, our road lay through
+copses, whose overhanging boughs formed a beautiful and verdant
+arch. The sunbeams, penetrating through them, danced in sportive
+glee upon the chequered ground, while between the boles we caught
+picturesque glimpses of the ocean. I could not help noticing one
+peculiarity in passing through these woods, that almost every
+tree is decorated with that species of parasite called wild
+pines;[64] the great varieties of cactus was also remarkable.
+
+After journeying along the road for about a mile, we came in view
+of "Crab Hill," noted for the dangers it presents to travellers,
+should their horses prove restive, or night overtake them. Here
+again we alighted, determined that nothing should escape our
+gaze. The road rises about 180 feet from the sea, in an abrupt
+precipice clothed with the dwarf acacia and "milk-bush"--those
+ever-to-be-found productions of Antigua. A low wall of stones,
+loosely piled, borders the edge of the road, which would prove
+but a sorry guard against any accident. In the steepest part of
+the hill, we looked over, and watched in silence the beautiful
+but treacherous waves, as they laved the rocky base of the
+precipice. Here and there a blasted parasite clung to it, and
+feebly strove to hide its ugliness; and one or two sea-birds sat
+watching for their prey, and pluming their rumpled feathers. At
+the sound of our voices they started, and after turning upon us
+their bright quick eyes for a moment, as if to ask why we
+obtruded upon their solitude, flapped their wings and soared
+screaming away through the vaulted ether.
+
+We enjoyed the scene for some time longer, and then remembering
+we were still many miles from the capital, and the sun had almost
+completed his daily journey, we resumed our seats and set our
+faces towards home. A ride of a few more minutes brought us to a
+place called "Sandy Valley," which proved not to be, like some
+places, a _misnomer_, for there is sand enough for any one's
+taste, and fine glittering sand it is too. The sea bounds one
+side of the valley, and a stagnant marsh the other.
+
+Leaving this, we passed by the valley church and school,
+cultivated cane-pieces and neat-looking "great houses," negro
+huts and provision grounds, and an open country, for we were
+rapidly leaving the mountains behind us. On our right, we passed
+a methodist settlement, and another belonging to the Moravians,
+and hard by a fresh-water spring; but I began to feel very tired,
+and consequently did not find out beauties which otherwise might
+have attracted my attention. A pretty sloping hill lay before us,
+and as we passed, the "full-orb'd moon" rose above it, and
+
+   "O'er the night her silver mantle threw."
+
+A sudden turn in the road placed her lovely face behind us, and
+languidly reclining in a snug corner, I mused in silence upon the
+beautiful scenes I had passed through in our pilgrimage, until
+roused by a bustle in the road, just at the entrance of the
+capital, where men and boys, long poles and ropes, and that very
+respectable quadruped, dignified by Antiguans with cognomination
+of "a cattle," formed the _figurantes_. The poor creature had
+been landed from an American vessel that morning, at a
+neighbouring bay, and exhausted, I suppose, with the discomfits
+of its voyage, had fallen down on its way to the butcher's. I
+don't think its sufferings were of long continuance, for the next
+morning I heard the black bellman announcing to the public, that
+"A fine fat 'merican ox was slaughtered at the shambles of
+'Seizar' James."[65]
+
+But to conclude our adventures; we rapidly passed through the
+grass-market and the town, heard the jingle of many a piano and
+the squeak of many a flute, (I mean no disparagement to the
+performers,) almost ran over a pig or two, who, spite of a late
+prohibition, were walking out to enjoy the cool of the evening;
+and at length safely alighted at our residence in "Spring
+Gardens."
+
+In the course of an hour or two, I willingly resigned myself to
+the dominion of sleep, and dreamt of mountains and
+thunder-storms, springs and fairies, precipices and lime-trees.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[62] "The highest mountains are not more than 1500 feet above the
+level of the sea."
+
+[63] The above lines are taken from an epitaph written upon the
+Dowager Countess of Pembroke, sister to the celebrated Sir Philip
+Sidney one of the favourite courtiers of Queen Elizabeth, and
+author of a romance entitled "Arcadia," which he dedicated to his
+sister the Countess. On this account it is frequently called "the
+Countess of Pembroke's Arcadia." This lady was noted for her
+great learning, in an age when classical knowledge was the common
+accomplishments of the court ladies. Her principal work was a
+translation of "Antonius," a French tragedy.
+
+   "Underneath this marble hearse,
+    Lies the subject of all verse.
+    Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother.
+    Death, ere thou hast kill'd another,
+    Fair, and learn'd, and good as she,
+    Time shall throw a dart at thee."
+
+[64] There is one great peculiarity in this plant which deserves
+notice. The leaves are cellular, and so formed as to make sure
+reservoirs for the drops of rain, which fall into them from the
+top, through small openings. The seeds are furnished with a downy
+substance, by which means they float through the air, and take
+root upon any part of a tree or shrub upon which they chance to
+fall. The leaves always grow erect, by which means they safely
+hold the rain water. Dampier mentions piercing these plants with
+his knife, and catching the water in his hat when suffering from
+thirst.
+
+[65] It may be proper to note, that such events are not of
+everyday occurrence in Antigua. Not more than two "cattle" are
+slaughtered in the capital in a week, and when such deed is
+committed the bellman announces it to the public.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XVII.
+
+
+
+  The seasons at Antigua--Heavy rains--Long droughts--The
+  water-merchant--A fortunate shower--Drought in 1837--Desolate
+  appearance of the country--Famishing cattle--Definition of
+  "_fine rains_"--Anecdote--Heavy shower--Joy--Earthquakes--1835
+  --Meteors--Dressing for the ball--The alarm--The ball-room--
+  Hurricanes--Devastations.
+
+The seasons at Antigua may be divided into the _wet_ and _dry_.
+The wet season generally commences in July, and continues, with
+intermissions, until October; and in February we look for it
+again. The rains in England are but summer dews, comparatively
+speaking, to the torrents which the overcharged clouds pour down
+upon these "Isles of the West." No one but an actual observer can
+form any idea of the violence of these storms. In a moment the
+streets are inundated, and the falling of the large drops upon
+the shingled roofs of the houses is quite deafening.
+
+But at the same time these rains constitute the Antiguan's
+greatest blessing, for not only do they revive the parched and
+thirsty earth, cool the atmosphere, promote the growth of the
+sugar cane, and dress nature in her loveliest garb; but from
+having (as before mentioned) only two or three fresh-water
+springs in the island, and those far inland, their chief supplies
+of that necessary fluid are derived from these showers. Large
+cisterns are dug and carefully lined with some kind of plaster,
+either terrace, brought from Monserrat or St. Christopher's, or
+Roman cement, to contain it; and as rain water has the property
+of purifying itself, it is generally translucent and wholesome.
+
+Antigua has, however, at various times, suffered long and
+dreadfully from drought. In 1779, the long want of rain was
+painfully felt; and in 1789 it occurred again, but with redoubled
+severity. Famine, it was supposed, would be the result. As many
+as five thousand head of horned cattle are said to have died; and
+men and women fell down in the streets from exhaustion. I have
+felt what it is to suffer from this cause in a small degree; the
+water we have been obliged to drink when the cisterns were dried
+up was nauseous in the extreme--only stern necessity would have
+induced persons to partake of it.
+
+Sometimes, when nearly all the ponds in the island are dry, (as
+was the case in 1833,) it becomes necessary to despatch vessels
+to the nearest islands for a supply of water. This season of
+general distress proves, at times, a rich harvest to those
+adventurers who possess, or can hire, a small vessel, and load it
+with water, for which they charge very high.
+
+A circumstance occurred in the above-mentioned year, in relation
+to this practice, which it may be worth while to relate. During a
+long succession of dry weather, and when there was but very
+little water to be found in Antigua, one of these
+_water-merchants_, if I may be allowed to use that expression,
+went to Monserrat (a small island a few hours' sail from Antigua)
+for a cargo of this useful beverage. Upon his return he asked an
+extravagant price for it; the poor people murmured; but what was
+to be done? Water must be had; and in the end the hard-earned
+wages of many a one found their way into the pockets of this
+"Aquarius."
+
+Finding his profits so great this time, and the dry weather
+continuing, he determined to make another trip, and if possible,
+add a little more of the "Honey of Hybla" to his stock. He
+arrived at Antigua with his elementary cargo in the evening, and
+immediately commenced his traffic. But in this instance he
+outwitted himself; for raising his demands as the necessity of
+water appeared the greater, the people were unable to comply, and
+determined to wait until morning, in hopes of procuring some at a
+cheaper rate.
+
+In the meantime the clouds began to darken, and appeared to rest
+upon the top of the mountains. The wind whistled mournfully among
+the trees--the air became chill--the mercury fell, and in a few
+moments the windows of heaven were opened, and the long-looked
+and wished-for rain descended, not in measured drops, "soft and
+slow," but in torrents. Now was the season of exultation; every
+vessel capable of containing fluids was put in requisition, and
+the mortified _water-merchant_ was obliged to get rid of his
+cargo the best way he could. Near to our residence is a kennel,
+which in dry weather is totally devoid of moisture, but during
+these heavy rains it becomes a small rivulet. To this stream then
+rushed a motley group; men, women, and children, dogs and poultry
+--all participating in the general joy; even the swinish
+multitude grunted forth their approbation, and ran to lave their
+snouts in its cool waters.
+
+It was laughable to see the little black children as they
+scampered about, shaking their hands, and screaming with delight
+as they enjoyed their natural "shower bath," which proved a more
+effective one than even Mrs. O'Flinn's. Talking of "shower baths"
+brings to my recollection an anecdote related of a late merchant
+of St. John's.
+
+Mr. B------, the merchant in question, had been for some time
+suffering from indisposition, and his medical attendant advised
+him to try the renovating influence of a shower-bath.
+Accordingly, such a machine was duly procured, and the next
+morning put into requisition. In the course of the day the
+physician called to ascertain the state of his patient after his
+ablution, and with winning voice, inquired how he liked his
+"shower-bath." "Oh, doctor!" replied the sick man, with rueful
+look and lengthened visage, "I verily thought I should have
+fainted, the shock was so great." "Indeed," said Dr. M------, in
+his usual bland manner, "I am sorry it had such an effect; why
+did you not follow the Irishman's plan, and take your umbrella?"
+The next forenoon brought with it the customary medical visitor,
+who again inquired into the merits of the bath. "Why," quoth the
+invalid, "I cannot say the shock was so great, but I do not think
+I shall derive any benefit from it; in fact, only my feet
+received a wetting this time, for I followed your advice _and
+carried my umbrella!_"
+
+But to return to the subject of droughts. Severe as the drought
+was in 1833, it was nothing compared to what we suffered in 1837,
+from the same cause; and, indeed, for the greater part of the
+preceding year. The old people remarked that they never
+remembered its being so dry since 1789, (which was particularly
+distinguished as "the year of the drought.") What miseries the
+Antiguans then suffered, I am of course from experience unable to
+say; but if they exceeded those endured in that eventful year,
+1837, they must have been terrible indeed.
+
+Almost every pond and cistern in the island was dried up,
+scarcely a blade of grass was to be seen; and when walking over
+pasture land, it crackled beneath the feet as if it had been
+baked. The poor cattle presented a most deplorable appearance,
+wandering about as they did in search of food and water, and
+expressing their urgent wants, by faint, melancholy lowings.
+
+The poorer class of inhabitants, also, felt it very much, obliged
+as they were to drink the spring water, which is but very little
+better than salt. The little fresh water they were able to
+procure occasioned them great labour, for after toiling hard all
+the day, they were obliged to devote the greater part of the
+night to fetching it from distant parts of the islands, carrying
+it in tubs upon their heads.
+
+It was a pitiful sight to see the country, it presented such a
+scene of barrenness. The cane-pieces looked burnt up; nothing was
+to be seen but dry and withered leaves, in place of their
+accustomed rich green; the provision grounds became mere wastes,
+and all agricultural employments were at a stand.
+
+Days and weeks thus rolled on, and still the same blue cloudless
+sky--the same burning sun. Or if a cloud did arise, and skim the
+vast concave, and the hopes of men grew strong, it passed away
+without giving the long-looked-for blessing. Again, and the scene
+changed. Huge dense clouds might be seen, piled one upon another,
+and slowly extending themselves over the sky until they reached
+the zenith; the upper ones looking as if crowned with snowflakes,
+while those nearer the earth were black and heavy like a
+"funereal pall," and appeared as if about to discharge their
+burdens. "Now we shall have it!" was the cry; "at last, we shall
+have rain!" Delusive hopes! doomed to be overthrown; these again
+passed away, and left no boon.
+
+Every day presented appearances more and more alarming, the
+little supply of water was rapidly diminishing, and men and
+brutes were becoming exhausted by thirst. Days were set apart by
+the legislature for public prayers and fasts, and a sum of money
+granted for the purpose of hiring vessels to go to Monserrat for
+water. This water was sold by the pail, but from being brought
+over in molasses' casks, it tasted extremely disagreeable.
+
+The late Sir Evan Murray McGregor, then governor of Barbados,
+hearing of the necessities of the Antiguans, (over whom he had
+formerly held sway in the character of commander-in-chief of the
+Leeward Islands,) sent a man-of-war with a cargo of this precious
+element from that island; but under some pretence or the other,
+it was refused by the legislature. The cause of this
+extraordinary line of conduct was said to be this. Sir Evan was
+not generally a favourite governor with the aristocratic party:
+he was a man of strict principles, and one who poised the scales
+of justice with an impartial hand between rich and poor, white
+and coloured. He would not herd with the _great people_--go to
+their houses, eat their corn-fed mutton and turtle, drink their
+_Chateau Margeau_ and Champagne, and then wink at their
+proceedings, and gloss over their errors, like some of his
+predecessors. Upon this account he was not liked, and when in the
+kindness of his heart he sent the present of water, it was
+refused in a very cold manner. Some of the members of the
+assembly were against this arrangement, and said, for the honour
+of Antigua, that they would rather have lost double the amount
+than it should have been returned.
+
+But to return more particularly to the drought. Not only did the
+inhabitants suffer from want of water to drink, and for general
+use, but the country provisions, such as yams, potatoes, &c.,
+upon which the negroes principally depend, unavoidably failed;
+and as all importations were raised so much in price, the lower
+classes were almost starved.
+
+The planters endured great inconvenience, not only from the
+dryness of the soil, which ruined the sugar-canes, but also from
+having to pay the same number of labourers their regular wages,
+without having anything for them to do, yet at the same time
+being obliged to retain them, lest when the wet season did come,
+and their assistance was really required, they might not be
+procurable.
+
+I heard a circumstance related which occasioned a smile, even in
+this time of distress. A certain good lady of St. John's sent one
+of her domestics to the sea side for a pail of salt water. It
+happened to be ebb-tide,[66] and upon the servant returning, she
+exclaimed to her mistress, the greatest astonishment being
+depicted upon her countenance, "Why missis, war you tink? It dry
+so till sea himself dry now. War eber we go do, me no no."
+
+Oh! how anxiously did we watch the barometer day after day, in
+hopes of its indicating rain. The inhabitants of the different
+parts of the island meeting one another, the first question asked
+was, "What weather have you had? do you think we are likely to
+get any rain?"
+
+A proprietor of a large estate in a distant part of the island,
+but who resided in the capital, met one morning a labourer of his
+coming from the country, and of course asked what news there was,
+and how they were coming on. "So, so, massa," returned the negro
+--"we hab fine rain last night." "Say you so, my fine fellow?"
+quoth his master, his heart enlarged at the prospect of his canes
+flourishing, "well, here's a quarter-dollar for you, as a reward
+for your good news."
+
+In the course of the same day, the manager of the estate arrived
+in town, and upon seeing the proprietor, was congratulated by him
+upon the "fine rains" he had so fortunately experienced in the
+country. "_Fine rains!_" said the manager, in surprise, "do I
+hear you aright, or are you joking? (although I think you'll find
+it no joke in the end;) we have had no rain at all, and I came
+into town this morning to consult with you upon the subject; for
+from the excessive drought, the canes are all burnt up, the
+cattle dying in all directions, and the labourers themselves are
+dropping down exhausted from want of water."
+
+The proprietor stormed and raved--that fellow Cato told me you
+had had fine rains last night; and I was so pleased to hear it,
+that--that--I actually gave the black rascal a quarter-dollar for
+his information. "Here, John! go and call that fellow back,"
+turning to a domestic, "and tell him to make haste--do you hear?"
+In the course of a short time Cato returned, rolling up his eyes
+until only the whites (or rather yellows) were visible, holding
+his little flannel cap in one hand, and in the other, what was
+once designated as a _pipe_, and uttering a mysterious noise,
+which was intended as half interrogative, half conciliatory,
+waited until his master, who was puffing and blowing, and looking
+"unutterable things," should speak.
+
+At length the storm burst--the torrent descended. "How dare you
+tell me such a story this morning, sirrah? How dare you, sir?
+answer me!" "War 'tory, massa," inquired the self-convicted, but
+waggish negro, the left foot at the same time performing
+countless evolutions, and the flannel cap twirled round the thumb
+with increased velocity. "What story? you arrant rogue! why, the
+story you told me this morning about having fine rains in the
+country." "Me no tell no 'tory, massa," retorted the negro,
+determined to stand his master's ire undaunted, and, like many
+other guilty ones, striving to have the last word. "Me no tell no
+'tory; war for me go tell 'tory? me no 'peak de trute." "You
+speak the truth, indeed! Here's the manager, who tells me there
+has been no rain at all, but, on the contrary, that my stock are
+all dying from want of water; and yet you dared to tell me you
+had fine rains last night." "Yes, massa, and so we _hab fine
+rain_; me tell de trute. An more den dat, de rain _fine so_ till
+--t-i-ll (prolonging the word) me hardly able to see him, he so
+fine!" Both owner and manager found it difficult to maintain
+their gravity at this definition of _fine rains_; while Cato,
+with a grin of self-congratulation at having so adroitly got
+himself out of a bad scrape; and grasping more firmly his
+quarter-dollar, which he imagined to be in some danger, set off
+for his own residence.
+
+"Hope deferred, maketh the heart sick;" and so indeed it was with
+us, when day after day passed, and still no appearance of rain.
+But One, who does not "willingly grieve the children of men,"
+remembered us in our great affliction, and when we least thought
+of it, sent us the needful blessing. I never saw such a fall of
+rain before; and many of the oldest inhabitants said the same
+thing. In about an hour from the time it first commenced, the
+streets were streaming with water; indeed, the one in which we
+reside looked more like a small river than anything else, for not
+a vestige of dry ground appeared.
+
+Report said two or three children were carried into the sea by
+the violence of the stream which rushed through the streets; but
+upon further inquiry, I found, as is generally the case, report
+did not speak truth. It originated from an old woman, seeing some
+chickens (which had been brought to market for sail, with their
+legs tied together) floating down the stream, when she exclaimed,
+"Eh! eh! look de fowl pic'nee;[67] he sure he go get drowned!"
+This travelled, and lost nothing by its peregrinations, until at
+length it became magnified into the loss of several children.
+
+In a very short time, all the ponds and cisterns in the island,
+which for so long a time had been perfectly dry, were filled to
+overflowing, and care and distress gave way to joy and
+thankfulness.
+
+About June, July, and August, Antigua is liable to be visited by
+storms of thunder, and lightning, and earthquakes. The lightning
+in this part of the globe is very vivid; and the thunder bellows
+through the air in terrific peals, every hill and mountain
+reverberating the sound. Often have I seen the lightning playing
+down the spiral branches of the cocoa-nut trees, presenting a
+sublime but awful appearance.
+
+But although these storms are so violent, and consequently so
+harrowing to the feelings, they are nothing in comparison to the
+earthquakes with which we are sometimes visited. Every nerve is
+shaken by these terrible convulsions of nature; the very brute
+creation seem to feel their influence.
+
+In April, 1690, Antigua suffered very severely from this cause.
+Nearly the whole town of St. John's was destroyed; and the
+sugar-works upon the various plantations in the country almost
+all overthrown. In many parts of the island, the solid earth was
+rent open; rocks were hurled from their places, and the very
+mountains defaced. The line of hills which skirts the harbour
+suffered from the concussion in a remarkable manner: one of them
+was rent completely in twain; and now, after the lapse of so many
+years, presents the appearance of two heights, with a deep dingle
+running between them. Soon after this awful occurrence, two
+comets made their appearance.
+
+The first time I felt an earthquake, I took it to be the approach
+of a heavy carriage; but by the increased, rumbling and tremour
+of the earth, was quickly undeceived. It was but a slight shock,
+however, and I began to think an earthquake was not so dreadful
+as my fancy had depicted it to be.
+
+It was reserved for the year 1833 to prove to me what an
+earthquake really was, and make me fully aware of its terrifying
+powers; and although nearly nine years have rolled by since that
+period, and consequently the remembrance of it has lost some part
+of its vividness, yet the occurrences of that night has left so
+deep an impression upon my mind, that it will never be wholly
+obliterated.
+
+Between eight and nine in the evening, a shock of an earthquake
+was felt; but as it did not continue long, no particular
+attention was paid to it. We had retired to-bed, and were in our
+first sleep, when we were suddenly awakened by that peculiar
+hollow noise which is always the forerunner of one of these
+convulsions. The noise became louder and louder; the earth heaved
+to and fro; the house shook from its very foundation; and books,
+glasses, and other light articles fell from their resting-places.
+This lasted with undiminished force: but a few minutes elapsed
+before another violent shock was felt. In the midst of this, the
+church-bell commenced ringing, and drums beating an alarm, while
+the whole face of the heavens, glowing with a fiery red, soon
+informed us that a conflagration augmented the horrors of the
+night.
+
+There were twenty-one distinct shocks felt between twelve at
+night and five in the morning, but the earth continued in a
+tremour for twenty-four hours afterwards. Thus it was we passed
+through that wearisome night; but when morning broke in the east,
+and the bright sun arose, and chased away the clouds of darkness,
+how many hearts swelled with gratitude towards Him who had so
+mercifully protected us through its dangers.
+
+The fire broke out at an estate called Otto's, situated in the
+suburbs of St. John's. It was supposed by many to have been
+occasioned by a meteor striking a wooden building, which
+supposition acquires more credence from the following fact. An
+elderly female, of the name of Moore, who had acquired some
+notoriety from her preaching, both in England (particularly in
+Cateaton street, London) and the West Indies, was sitting up
+late, on the night in question, employed in writing her
+"Memoirs." She mentions having seen a particular appearance in
+the heavens, which she described as looking like a bright scarf
+of fire gradually gliding down the sky in the direction of the
+estate, until, upon apparently gaining the earth, it vanished.
+
+The attorney of the above-mentioned estate also witnessed a
+similar phenomenon a few weeks afterwards. In this instance, the
+meteor descended upon the branch of a cocoa-nut tree, which grew
+near his house, and set it on fire; and had it not been for the
+courage and activity of a negro who was present, and who
+succeeded in felling the tree, great danger might have resulted
+from it.
+
+Most of the Leeward Islands suffered from earthquakes the same
+night; but at St. Kitts, (about sixty miles to the west of
+Antigua,) they appear to have felt them more severely than in the
+other islands. A ball was held that evening at the Court House,
+and the company were dressing for the occasion when the first
+shock was felt.
+
+Two young ladies, the daughters of a respectable merchant of
+Bassterre, (the capital of St. Kitts,) met with so great a
+fright, that they were obliged to forego paying their court to
+the "dancing muse." The duties of the toilet were scarcely
+finished, when, as before observed, the earthquake commenced. In
+a moment the ceiling of the apartment was rent, and, as they
+supposed, a heavy fall of rain penetrated through the aperture,
+and extinguished the lights.
+
+The youngest of the ladies, terrified at the concussion, and not
+knowing the extent of their danger, threw herself upon the
+ground, calling loudly for help. The trembling domestics quickly
+came with a lamp, when, horror of horrors! they found the
+delicate white satin in which their young mistress was enrobed,
+completely saturated with _blood_! The other members of the
+family, alarmed by the screams of the servants, assembled in the
+room, and with eagerness inquired where the wound was. This was
+not to be discovered; and, accordingly, another elucidation of
+the mystery was sought for, and no long period elapsed before it
+was found. Their father, as before observed, was a merchant, and
+the attic over the room the young ladies occupied had been
+converted into a temporary wine-store. From the severe shock of
+the earthquake, a cask of port wine got staved; and what had the
+appearance of _blood_, was nothing less than its contents which
+so liberally bedewed the ball-dress of the fair sufferer.
+
+But the first shock did not intimidate many, however, and
+consequently the ball-room was crowded with visitants. "Nods and
+becks, and wreathed smiles," flew around; innumerable lamps
+illumined the room, but their blaze was eclipsed by the radiance
+emitted from the dark brilliant eyes of the Houris, who, on the
+"light fantastic toe," glided through the mazes of a quadrille.
+All was joy fulness, and every heart responded to the genial
+influence of the scene, when another shock more violent, and of
+longer continuance, converted this feeling of pleasure into the
+opposite one of woe. Instead of the lively scene described, all
+was now tumult and distress. Some of the ladies fainted, others
+threw themselves upon their knees, while the greater number
+rushed out of the apartment, which now looked hateful to them,
+and hastened to the beach.
+
+Shock followed shock in rapid succession, and the poor
+"Kittefonians" thought their little island was doomed to
+destruction. Nor was it from the quaking of the earth that all
+their terror proceeded; the sea rose so high, and the waves
+rolled in such a tumultuous manner, that an inundation was
+feared. In such a situation the inhabitants were almost paralyzed
+with fear; some went on board the different ships in the harbour,
+while others remained all night upon the beach, exposed to the
+"pitiless pelting" of the storm.
+
+I chanced to visit St. Kitts a short time after this awful
+occurrence. The inhabitants were still trembling from
+apprehension; and upon the slightest motion of the floor, the
+colour fled from the lips of many of the fair sex, and left them
+of a pallid white. I was present, upon one occasion, when a
+gentleman requested a young lady to favour him with a song. "Oh,
+no, sir! you must excuse me," said she, lengthening her very
+pretty face, and throwing an air of gravity into her countenance;
+"we never sing since the earthquake." If no other good was
+effected, it had the power of alienating her mind (for a season
+at least) from some of the vanities of the world, if a simple
+song can be called one.
+
+Another dreadful visitation of elementary strife, to which
+Antigua, as well as the other West Indian islands, is liable in
+the months of August, September, and October, are the hurricanes,
+or _tornadoes_. When they come, they are armed with every terror
+--rain, thunder, lightning, and sometimes earthquakes, attend
+their progress. The sea feels their influence, and, by its
+swelling and roaring, expresses it--
+
+   "The waves behind impel the waves before,
+    Wide-rolling, foaming high, they tumble to the shore."
+
+The years 1670, 1681, 1707, 1740, 1772, 1780, and 1792, are those
+in which the severest hurricanes have occurred at Antigua. The
+hurricane of 1670 was most memorable. It raged with intense
+severity for four hours, and in that short space of time
+destroyed the new town of St. John's, which had been rebuilt
+since the French invasion, and levelled almost every house with
+the ground. The ships lost in the harbour were the "Robert," of
+Ireland, William Cocks, master; the "Merchants' Adventure," of
+the same place; the "Margaret Pink," from Tangiers, and another
+large ship called the "Five Islands," besides several smaller
+vessels which had come there for shelter. A wreck was also driven
+ashore, in which was found the corpse of a boy, some palm oil,
+and elephants' teeth, supposed to be from Guinea. That of 1707
+was also very severe, being considered one of the most violent
+ever experienced in the Leeward West India Islands, although
+Antigua suffered more than any of the neighbouring colonies. It
+blew down houses and entire sugar-works, tore up the largest
+trees by the roots, and devastated whole fields of sugar-canes;
+indeed, so tremendous was the hurricane, that it caused an almost
+general destruction. The oldest inhabitants of the present day
+unite, however, in saying that they never experienced one so
+awful as that of 1835.
+
+About four in the afternoon it commenced to look very wild,
+although the wind was moderate; the sky was of a deep saffron
+colour, and the sun shone with a fiery red. Between five and six
+in the evening the wind rose, and continued increasing until
+about seven, when the havoc began.
+
+Houses were levelled in an instant with the ground; many of the
+small dwellings were completely lifted from off their slight
+foundations, and carried by the wind to some distance. One old
+woman in particular had a narrow escape of her life. The house in
+which she resided was raised about five feet from the ground by
+the violence of the wind, hurried along with the greatest
+velocity for about the space of twenty feet across the road, and
+then placed in what was once a pond. Luckily, however, for the
+good old dame, the pond had been filled up, or, in all
+probability, her aerial flight would have finished her course of
+existence in this transitory sphere.
+
+The hurricane raged with unabated force until a little before
+nine, tearing up large trees by the roots, and snapping asunder
+others as if they had been twigs; when, suddenly, in a moment,
+the wind dropped. Not a sound was to be heard--not a single
+breeze was abroad: A deep, solemn silence reigned around--a
+silence which harrowed up every feeling of the soul, for it spoke
+of dire mishaps.
+
+This continued for some time, when again the wind returned with
+redoubled fury, as if its strength was recruited by the short
+respite it had gained, and shook the very earth. The hurricane
+raged until the sun got up, and then slowly and sullenly it sank
+to rest; until towards evening, nothing was to be heard but its
+sobs and sighs.
+
+A great many small vessels belonging to Antigua were sunk during
+the gale, and many poor mortals that night found--
+
+   "Their death in the rushing blast,
+    Their grave in the yawning sea."
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[66] Although in Antigua the tide does not ebb and flow more than
+from six to twelve inches in ordinary instances.
+
+[67] "Pic'nee" is the negro term for children.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+
+
+  Description of the town of St. John's, the capital of Antigua--
+  Situation--Arrangement of the streets--Hucksters--Houses--
+  Springs--Small shops--Stores of the retail dealers--Grog-shops
+  --Merchants' stores and lumber yards--Definition of lumber--
+  Auction sales--Scotch Row and Scotchmen--Incongruous display of
+  goods--Fire in 1797--Ruins--Fire in 1841--Its devastations.
+
+St. John's, the capital of Antigua, is situated on the west side
+of the island, and contains about 979 houses. It is built upon a
+slight declivity, and commands a beautiful view of the harbour,
+which is one of the prettiest in the West Indies.
+
+The town, which is well arranged, covers a space of about 150
+acres of land; most of the streets are wide and well-kept, and
+intersect each other at right angles--the principal ones running
+in a straight line down to the sea. There is one peculiarity
+attending the construction of these streets, which is, that there
+are no causeways; and consequently, the pedestrian traveller has
+to elbow his way amid trucks and handbarrows, gigs, carriages,
+and horsemen, droves of cattle, or cargoes of mules, just landed
+from other countries, cattle-carts, or moving houses.
+
+At the corners of the different streets are seated hucksters,
+(black or coloured women;)[68] some with their shallow trays,
+containing cakes of all descriptions, parched ground nuts, (the
+_arachis hypogoea_,) sugar-cakes, and other confections, and
+varieties of fruits and vegetables; others have piles of cottons,
+coloured calicoes, bright-tinted handkerchiefs, &c., placed by
+them, or carefully spread along the sides of the most frequented
+streets, to attract the eye of the passer-by. As most of the
+Antiguan houses are raised a few feet from the ground, which
+necessarily requires the use of a step or two, the hucksters are
+very fond of monopolizing such appurtenances; and it is no
+uncommon thing to be obliged to wait until they remove their
+different wares, before you can enter the house, or else take the
+chance of breaking your neck over heaps of potatoes, or come in
+closer contact than is advisable with bottles of ginger-drink, or
+pots and pans of gorgeous colours, from the well-known English
+potteries.
+
+The houses are generally built of wood, painted of a white or
+light stone colour, with bright green _jalousies_, or glass
+windows and green Venetian blinds. The greater number have
+covered galleries running along the sides or fronts of them, in
+which the good people love to assemble in the cool of evening,
+and while away the hours in converse sweet, or scan over the
+island newspapers--two of which issue weekly from respective
+presses, to enlighten the worthy inhabitants as to what is
+passing in their little colony.
+
+Some of these dwellings are very commodious, and make a good
+appearance, particularly when shaded by a few beautiful trees, or
+standing, as many of them do, in a small garden, embellished with
+Flora's splendid children. But as for following any of the _five
+orders_ in their architectural adornments, that is quite out of
+the question; or at least, it is an order of their own invention
+they prefer, and which may be called the Antiguan.
+
+Within these last few years, a few houses have been erected, with
+low roofs and parapet walls; the usual plan is to have that
+necessary part of the dwelling raised in the fashion of an
+English barn, or an Egyptian pyramid. One peculiarity which
+strikes the eye of a stranger in these dwellings, is the absence
+of chimneys--the kitchens being, in most instances, detached from
+the house; and the heat of the climate, as a matter of course,
+renders all grates or stoves, and their accompanying flues,
+unnecessary.
+
+Since the serious droughts in 1833, springs or wells have been
+dug in various parts of the town, which, although the water is
+brackish, are of great use for many domestic purposes,
+particularly to the lower classes, who do not possess a cistern.
+These springs have been lately modified by having water-engines
+attached to them, and enclosed by a low wall and wooden
+palisadings, painted of a bright sky-colour. Methinks, however,
+that Master Sol will soon spoil their flaunting beauty. It is a
+pity the directors of these improvements did not choose green
+instead of the other colour; for, from the whiteness of the
+streets, and the extreme glare of the sunbeams, we require
+something to relieve and cool the eye; and much as we admire the
+lovely tint of the heavens, light blue palings do not equally
+fascinate our gaze.
+
+In different parts of the town are numbers of small shops, of
+about six or eight feet square, in which varieties of trades are
+carried on. In one may be seen a cobbler--no! I beg their pardon
+--a _cordwainer_; himself shoeless, busily employed in forming,
+from his not very fragrant materials, a pair of creaking
+high-heeled boots, for the use of some black exquisite. A bunch
+of human hair attached to the end of a long stick, and moving
+with every breeze, bespeaks the abode of a barber and
+hair-dresser; while a multiplicity of shreds of cloth,
+half-finished vests, a goose, and other _et ceteras_, with a
+group of mortals seated _a la Turque_, proves beyond doubt that
+the inmates are of that particular class of beings, nine
+individuals of which are required to form one ordinary man.
+Others, again, of the receptacles of trade, are stocked with
+provisions, such as small quantities of salt pork, corn, flour,
+candles, butter, (of the consistence of honey,) a few dried peas,
+or horse-beans, and any other little matters; while some contain
+_dry goods_, as it is customary, in this island, to term all
+articles of drapery. Small as these tenements are, many of them
+are divided by a lathed partition, forming on one side a
+butcher's shamble, where an array of sheep's heads, miserable
+specimens of legs of mutton, and saffron-coloured pork, may be
+met with, which, carnivorous as it must be allowed we all are,
+few like their eyes to dwell upon; while, on the other side,
+gown-pieces, and "blue checks," with other "odds and ends," claim
+the frequenters' attention.
+
+Next to these small shops, come the stores of the retail
+provision dealers, which are upon a larger scale, and of course
+better supplied with goods. Then there are the _grog shops_, as
+they are termed, where to the heterogeneous mass of eatables,
+crockery, and tin-ware, is added the more exciting articles of
+brandy, rum, gin, porter, wine, &c.; and where of an evening,
+amid fumes of every description, (from Yanky cheese to Virginia
+tobacco,) and dim smoky oil lamps, parties of soldiers, sailors,
+dingy-looking blacks, and unfortunate females--ay! and men of
+better rank of life, who ought to blush to be found in such
+places--love to congregate, and barter health and money, for
+dirty goblets of those fiery liquids.
+
+When passing, in an evening, these _store-houses for crime_, they
+forcibly bring to my mind thoughts of Pandemonium. The dusky
+lamps, at one moment sending forth their long flaming tongues,
+the next, only serving to make darkness visible; the crowds of
+negroes, with their gleaming eyes and glittering teeth,
+presenting the appearance of so many attending demons; the groups
+of white soldiers or sailors, looking more pallid in the
+flickering lamp-light, and greedily quaffing the deleterious
+fluid, which, sooner or later, preys upon their very vitals--and
+then the various sounds of cursing and quarrelling, idiotic
+laughter, discordant singing, and incoherent talking, as the
+miserable frequenters arrive at the different stages of
+intoxication,--conspire to render it more like a council-chamber
+of tormented spirits, than the self-chosen place of amusement of
+rational creatures.
+
+The next grade of these places of merchandise are, the merchants'
+stores or warehouses, with their attached lumber-yards. These
+are, in most instances, large, dismal-looking buildings, whose
+unwashed rafters afford safe protection to innumerable spiders of
+every size, or present a desirable spot for the freemasons (the
+ichneumon bee) to erect their clayey dwellings upon. One corner
+of these vast emporiums is latticed off, forming a
+counting-house, decorated with a coat of white, green, or yellow
+paint, and shewing its chequers of red tape, for the purpose of
+sticking orders, letters, or bank-notices for payments, due at
+the Colonial or West India Bank. Here, on a high-legged stool, of
+dingy look, sits the merchant, dressed in his round, white
+jacket, snowy pantaloons, Panama or Paget hat; and, with pen in
+hand, and a pinch of _Lundy-foot_ between his fingers, (to assist
+his ideas, I suppose,) calculates the probabilities of his
+_'specs_, which in other days afforded such golden harvests as to
+give rise to the belief, that the streets in the West Indies were
+paved with doubloons and dollars.
+
+But let it not be imagined that this worthy and numerous class
+employ all their business-hours in calculating their gains and
+losses, poring over the leaves of a dusty ledger, or puzzling
+their brains over their "bank accounts." Oh! no, no--the Antiguan
+merchants are far too wise for that--many a bowl of
+"pepper-punch" is brewed; many a long cork of approved brand is
+drawn, and the "rosy red" _Vin de Bordeaux_ is poured into the
+tendered crystal; and many a bottle of champagne, or "Tennent's
+pale ale," is unwired, uncorked, and its creamy excellence
+effused for them. Nor is the tongue idle; well-seasoned jests and
+brilliant repartees abound; news is discussed, wit flies like
+arrows, and many a rosy face grows more roseate, and many a
+laughing eye becomes dewy before they part.
+
+But I must say something more about the stores--what a scene of
+confusion they present to the unaccustomed eye!--what varied and
+multiplied articles do they display! In one part are hogsheads of
+salt cod, herrings, and other salted fish; bins of Indian corn,
+rice, peas, and salt; flour, tobacco, barrels of blacking, and
+kegs of lard. In another part may be found barrels of beef and
+mess-pork; hogsheads of prime Cumberland hams, kits of ox
+tongues, and barrels of biscuits; sparkling Moselle, hock,
+seltzer-water, and lamp-oil; preserved meats and soups, and kegs
+of crackers; pitch, tar, rosin, and oats; block-tin tureens,
+spirits of turpentine, and Cognac brandy; crates of earthenware,
+rose nails, and hogsheads of tin-ware; with London pickles,
+agricultural implements, and hair-brooms. On another side of the
+store lie huddled together hogsheads of Barclay's brown stout,
+boxes of soap, bundles of wood-hoops, and cases of gilded
+cornices; boxes of raisins and currants, paving flags, and masts
+and oars; firkins of Cork butter, hogsheads of lime, and patent
+corkscrews; Hyson teas, Durham mustard, loaf-sugar, and Havannah
+cigars; potatoes, onions, Bologna sausage, and blacksmiths'
+coals; artificers' tools, anti-corrosion paint, currycombs, and
+_gold watches_; the whole wound up with Rowland's Macassar oil,
+floating soap, and quack medicines, consisting of Morrison's
+pills, and Swain's Panacea, which, if we believe the labels, are
+to cure every ill "that flesh is heir to;" while from the ceiling
+dangle in graceful negligence, coils of rope, and horses'
+halters.
+
+To prove to any of my readers who may be sceptical of the truth
+of such a _various_ assemblage of goods, as I have stated the
+merchant's stores contain, I will give a _correct copy_ of a
+cargo handed about to the different merchants, as brought by an
+American vessel arrived to-day:--
+
+       CARGO ON BOARD BRIG "RANDOLPH," FROM PHILADELPHIA.
+
+   12 barrels pitch             1 box fine beaver hats
+  118 covered hams            100 boxes cheese
+    2 casks of shoulders        3 doz. Windsor chairs
+   30 barrels pilot bread      16 nurses' rocking chairs
+   10 do. navy do.              8 ladies' cane do.
+  30-3 do. sugar biscuits       1 doz. children's do.
+  20-3 do. soda                49 barrels potatoes
+  20-3 crackers            18-1/4 gross lucifer matches
+   50 kegs lard                 1 mahogany spring-seat sofa
+   30 blls. mess pork           1 do. wash-stand, marble top
+  100 kegs butter               3 boxes stationery
+   13 boxes lump tobacco        4 backgammon boards
+   20 do. champagne cider      12 bridles
+   20 doz. buckets         22-1/2 doz. black ink in boxes
+   50 boxes soap, 24 lbs.       1 mahogany spring-seat, rocking chair
+  700  do.    16 lbs.           2 wooden arm chairs
+   50 do. mould candles
+   17 do.  do.
+
+        Offers in cash, or negotiable notes, 1 o'clock.
+
+From the store we will take a walk into the lumber yard. But
+before I proceed to describe it, it will be necessary for me to
+make another digression, and let those of my readers who may be
+yet ignorant of the real meaning of the term know what "lumber"
+is. Upon my first acquaintance with West Indians, I was
+particularly surprised to hear them talk so much about _lumber_,
+and of Mr. This and Mr. That dealing in such commodity. As my
+mind has ever been apt to roam far and wide, I no sooner heard
+the merits of this peculiar article (if I may so call it)
+discussed, than my schooldays' tasks presented themselves to my
+recollection, and I mentally murmured with Dr. Johnson, "lum-ber,
+lumber, old useless furniture."
+
+Having arrived at this definition, again I fancied myself amid
+broken chairs and tables, sofas minus a leg, shattered
+looking-glasses, musty, dusty, rusty, grates, antique bottles,
+and similar chattels, where in one of my hoyden days I had
+scrambled to look for a bird-cage in which to imprison a poor
+half-fledged skylark, captured for me by a little ragged
+_protege_ of mine, known by the true English name of "Bill."
+
+Yet still I was not satisfied; for what, thought I, can West
+Indian merchants find so particularly valuable in all these
+divers specimens of mutilation, as to induce them to deal so
+largely in them? I could only answer mine own query by exclaiming
+"'tis strange! 'tis passing strange!" Time wore on, however, and
+I arrived at Antigua; then my wonder soon ceased, and I found out
+that in fact a _lumber merchant_ signifies nothing less than a
+dealer in _timber_.
+
+Having endeavoured to give the Antiguan definition of lumber, I
+will now proceed to describe "the yard." It is generally entered
+by passing through the store, at the hazard of putting your foot
+into pools of rosin or varnish, slipping over stray peas, or
+half-breaking your neck over heaps of brickbats. At length the
+yard is gained, and drawing a long breath, as much from heat as
+exercise, I look around. On each side of the door are huge stacks
+of staves, piled up in a very uniform manner, used for making
+hogsheads or tierces for packing sugar, or puncheons for the
+conveyance of rum. In other parts of the yard are bundles of
+cypress or cedar shingles,[69] white and pitch pine boards,
+planks and scantlings, all packed in appropriate order; that is,
+when they are not landing cargoes, and the master has an eye to
+tidy appearances; but if this is not the case, the different
+species of lumber are tumbling about in all directions.
+
+Then there are large sheds erected in various parts of the yard,
+for the purpose of securing "hard-wood" (as mahogany,
+mill-timber, &c.) from the effects of the weather. There is also
+very generally a pigeon-house or two to be met with, and their
+pretty inmates may be seen gliding about, picking up the
+scattered grain, or, perched upon one of the lumber stacks, watch
+your every movement with their bright round eyes, while their
+variegated breasts glitter in the sun-beams like so many gems. At
+the bottom of the yard large gates open to the sea, furnished
+with a huge crane; and here it is that all those incongruous
+articles which fill their stores, and bring wealth to their
+coffers, are landed.
+
+When the merchants are visited by certain fears and twitchings,
+relative to the fact of their not being able to dispose of their
+diversified merchandise, they "call an auction;" and under the
+auspices of the red flag,[70] and with the assistance of the
+auctioneer's lungs and hammer, instead of harlequin's magic wand,
+turn all these "creature's comforts" into pounds, shillings, and
+pence.
+
+In some parts of the town are auction rooms, where, with the same
+laudable zeal for "charming variety," things as distinct from
+each other as the nadir is from the zenith, are put up, the
+mysterious words "going, going, _gone_" uttered, and finally
+knocked down to the attendants--whites, blacks, and coloured.
+
+Having mentioned the stores of those philanthropists, who, for
+the mere consideration of a little dirty _pelf_, undertake to
+provide so liberally for the inner man, it will be necessary to
+take a look at those temples of fashion, fancy, and fascination,
+commonly known in this island as "Scotch shops," or in other
+words, Antiguan haberdashery stores.
+
+In a particular part of St. John's, running north and south, lies
+a well-made broad street, which, from being inhabited principally
+by Scotchmen, is known by the appropriated name of "Scotch Row."
+Capital stores (when I _am_ at Rome, I like to do as Rome does,
+and give everything its approved title) flank each side of the
+street, and display their glittering wares to the admiration of
+passers-by; and from whence (with but few exceptions) emanate
+those dresses and ribbons of a thousand dyes, with which the
+_fair sex_ of _every colour_ delight to enrobe their lovely
+forms.
+
+Here, as in the merchants' stores, may be found articles of the
+most opposite natures. In one part lies a delicate white satin
+bonnet, with its bunches of "orange flowers," to grace the head
+of some blushing bride, or decorated with the snowy plumes torn
+by the swarthy African from some swift-footed ostrich; while by
+its side reposes a broken ewer, or an iron pot.
+
+You may, in truth, buy anything and everything in these "Scotch
+shops," from three farthings' worth of tape to the most costly
+articles. Dresses of all kinds; ribbons, laces, flowers, and
+bonnets; coats, vests, pantaloons, umbrellas, and shoes; blondes,
+scarfs, mantelets, perfumery, and _tenpenny nails_; paint,
+frying-pans, and carpets; jewellery of every description,
+dripping-pans, and Seidlitz powders; Epsom salts, ginger-beer,
+and white lead; horses' halters, cherry-tree chairs, and
+preserved fruits; children's dresses, lanterns, horse-whips, and
+coffee; sugar-loaves, saddles, bonnet-shapes, and white-handled
+knives; ladies' corsets, Valenciennes edging, and Westphalia
+hams; pigs' tongues, truckle cheese, and bird-seed; dish-covers,
+bottle-baskets, hooks-and-eyes, and brimstone; harness, cattle
+medicines, and lozenges; "Mechian" razor strops, and Metcalf's
+toothbrushes; with brandy, champagne, Madeira, sherry, port,
+sauterne, Rhenish wines, bottled stout, pale ale, glasses to
+drink all these good articles out of, and I know not what
+besides. Loaves of sugar dangling by the side of zephyr scarfs,
+or candle-boxes _vis-a-vis_ with ostrich feathers.
+
+Oh! ye tradesmen of Regent-street, so polite and perfumed, and
+such _calibre_, who stand behind your glossy counters with the
+air of "my lord duke," or glide with noiseless steps and mincing
+airs over your Persian carpeted floor,--what, _what_ would you
+think of our Antiguan shops? Or how would those over-fashionable
+gentlemen at Storr and Mortimer's be astounded, when tendering
+for approval to "beauty bright" those costly gems which carry us
+back to the days of the Arabian nights, if they came in contact
+with a brass kettle or an iron pot!
+
+I often wonder how the pale-faced, straight-haired clerks (for
+they are not termed _shopmen_ in this part of the world) manage
+to get on among such a multiplicity of dissimilar articles; or
+that from being asked for so many contrary goods during the day,
+they do not make many and greater mistakes. A lady drives up in
+her carriage to the door of one of these labyrinthan _depots_ of
+vanity, and in that "low soft voice so sweet in woman," asks to
+be shewn some orange flower chaplets, and essence of
+_Frangipanier_. The poor clerk, his brains turning round like a
+revolving light, flies to obey her commands; but lo! in his hurry
+and confusion, he catches up a _frying-pan_, and with streaming
+brow, presents the inelegant article to the lady's astounded and
+horrified gaze, instead of the delicate perfume.
+
+The master of these gay and changeful stores, is as diversiformed
+as his goods are various. In the morning he stands behind his
+counter, and "bows to" and "ma'am's" any black member of the
+_canaille_ that condescends to purchase a few yards of
+"half-a-bit" (2d. sterling) ribbon to sandal her mill-post ankle;
+while in the evening, in all the glories of white pantaloons, new
+coat, smart buttons and embroidered stock, he figures away at an
+aristocratic dinner party.
+
+Times are indeed altered with these Scotchmen. In former years,
+when Sawney left his mountain home, his trouty lochs, and oaten
+bannocks, for the hot suns and debilitating climate of these
+"Isles of the West;" he did it for the sake alone of _siller_. As
+to ambition--faugh! he hated the very name, or else, like the
+cock in Esop's fable, he spurned the glittering bauble, of which
+he knew not the worth. They plodded on from year to year,
+increased their stock of goods, and added many a round dollar to
+their worldly wealth, and then sat down contentedly to enjoy the
+smoky flavour of their usquebaugh, forming no greater
+acquaintance with the governor, than as they saw him proceed to
+the court-house in discharge of his high office, or knowing no
+more of government-house than the outer appearance.
+
+But the Scotchmen of the present day scorn the lowly ideas of
+their predecessors. They ape the man of fashion, call their
+haberdashery store a merchant's warehouse, and foregoing the
+vulgar title of draper, take to themselves the loftier name of
+_merchant_. Nor is this all. They attend the governor's _levees_,
+play the amiable at a quadrille party, frequent the billiard
+table, or perchance take wine with his excellency, and grin and
+bow with approved precision. Their shops prove an agreeable
+morning lounge for the superiors of the island, and in a glass of
+_sangaree_, or a flowing bowl of _pepper-punch_, the difference
+of grade between the entertainer and the entertained is
+overlooked.
+
+That "there is no rule without an exception," is a true
+apophthegm; and among the many emigrants from the "land o'
+cakes," some very respectable individuals are to be met with.
+
+I believe it a correct statement to assert, that "Scotch Row"
+begins with one of this superior class, and ends with him who has
+been called "The father of the Scotchmen," not from his age, but
+from his high conduct.
+
+Mr. H------ is a man in whom great urbanity is blended with
+strong determination of character. He possesses varied talents,
+and is no mean disciple of St. Cecilia's; and although, perhaps,
+not altogether ranking among the _literati_ in the fuller sense
+of that term, yet he
+
+   "----laughing can instruct Much has he read,
+    Much more has seen: he studied from the life,
+    And in the original perused mankind."
+
+Philosophy to him, however, is no gloomy subject; no solemn
+stalking about wrapt up in his own stately ideas, and scorning,
+with cynic's eye, any harmless mirth. In the words of one of
+Britain's poets, I may say of him--
+
+   "----nor purpose gay,
+    Amusement, dance or song, he sternly scorns."
+
+Nature seems to have intended him for a higher occupation, than
+to stand behind a counter and sell a few yards of tape, or a
+paper of pins.
+
+The streets of the capital have all their proper appellations,
+although no painted board announces such a fact to the traveller.
+The east and west streets, beginning southerly, are--
+South-street, Tanner, Nevis, Ratcliff, St. Mary's, High, Long,
+Church, Newgate, Wapping, North, Bishopsgate, St. John's, St.
+George's; north and south streets, beginning easterly, are--
+East-street, Cross, Church-lane, Temple, Steeple-street, Corn,
+Market, Friendly-alley, Gutter-lane, Newgate-lane, Popeshead,
+Thames, Coney-Warren-lane, Subscription-alley, Craw-lane,
+Wilkinson's-street, and Mariner's-lane. Some of these lanes and
+alleys are famous for their _grog-shops_, particularly that
+establishment known by the appropriate name of "The
+Hole-in-the-Wall," for the only entrance is a low arched door-way
+scooped out of its massy walls.
+
+One part of the town bears the somewhat lofty title of "The
+Parade." In former years it answered as a kind of exchange, where
+the merchants congregated together during "'Change hours," and
+discussed the business of the commercial world. Cargoes of all
+descriptions were here disposed of; dollars and doubloons in one
+moment changed owners, and human flesh and blood was openly
+bartered. For a long period, however, the Parade visibly declined
+in importance, and became but the shadow of itself; but within
+these last few years, it has, phoenix like, sprung up with
+renewed vigour, and presents to the passenger's eye many good and
+bustling stores.
+
+St. John's has, at various times, suffered severely from
+conflagrations--a circumstance not to be wondered at, when we
+consider the great number of wooden buildings, and the
+carelessness of persons in throwing about particles of fire. In
+1769, an accident of this nature occurred, which was most direful
+in its consequence. It arose from the negligence of a woman who
+was employed in ironing, and who omitted to extinguish the fire
+in a coal-pot, after finishing her labours.
+
+It may be necessary, perhaps, for the comprehension of some of my
+readers who may not be conversant with West Indian domestic
+subjects, to mention more fully the construction of a coal-pot.
+In some of the islands these utensils are composed of clay,
+moulded into the form of buckets, and baked in a moderate fire;
+but the Antiguan coal-pot is nothing more nor less than a deal
+box, clamped with iron or tin, and lined with bricks plastered
+over. A few pieces of old iron hoop are placed horizontally
+across the box at stated intervals about halfway from the bottom,
+and upon these is placed a layer of charcoal. The irons are
+arranged upon the top, and the coals ignited; no bellows are
+used, except what Nature has afforded in the owners' own lungs;
+or when their breath fails, and the fuel still proves refractory,
+their large straw hat is displaced from their heads, and
+brandished before the mouths of their little stoves, with sundry
+ejaculations of "Eh! eh! war do de co-als to-day, me b'lieve dem
+no want to burney."
+
+But to return to the fire in 1769; it burnt with fearful
+rapidity. The gaol, custom-house, indeed nearly the whole town,
+fell a prey to the destructive element, 260 houses being levelled
+with the ground, and some of the finest stores and richest
+merchandise destroyed. Government granted 1000l. for the relief
+of the sufferers; and their kind friends in Liverpool collected,
+during the following year, the sum of 346l. 2s. 6d., which was
+thankfully and gratefully received.
+
+Many other fires have occurred since then, the vestiges of which
+remain to this day; one in particular, known by the appropriate
+name of the burnt wall, is still pointed out to the notice of the
+stranger. Part of this land has been lately purchased by the
+Wesleyans, who have erected a small chapel upon it, which answers
+also for a school-room, and where preaching is held on Friday
+evenings.
+
+But the conflagration which happened on the 2nd April, 1841, has
+effaced the memory of all other events of the same nature. It
+broke out in the house of a person carrying on the business of a
+straw bonnet-maker, after the family had retired to rest, and it
+was only discovered in time for the inmates to make their escape
+by jumping from the upper windows.
+
+A few moments after it was first perceived, the walls fell, and
+the flames burst forth with a fearful rapidity, curling and
+twisting themselves in all directions; seizing upon every thing
+within their reach, and illuminating the heavens with their
+awfully grand lustre. The church bell tolled forth its solemn
+warning; drums beat an alarm; and, in the words of an old writer,
+when describing the fire in London in 1666, "dreadful screams
+disturbed the midnight quiet, and raised the affrighted people
+from their beds, who, scarce awake, all seemed to be a dream.
+Each one appeared but as a moving statue, as once Lot's wife,
+viewing her flaming Sodom, was transformed into a pillar."
+
+So saith "Samuel Wiseman," and his graphic description answers
+equally for the fire of Antigua, as it did in yore, for that of
+London.
+
+House after house, store after store, fell beneath the raging
+element; or, when built of stone, only their bare and blackened
+walls were left standing. No sooner was one house on fire, than
+the flames were pouring into the windows of the next; scathing
+the trees as they passed, dismantling them of their verdure, and
+leaving them only a seared and withered trunk. Again the Custom
+House fell a victim, and to this cause many deficiencies in the
+statistical part of this work may be attributed; for, from the
+suddenness and violence of the fire, many valuable records were
+lost.
+
+Still the fiery deluge rolled on,--at one moment the sky was
+almost hidden by the dense masses of smoke; at another, bright
+spiral lines of flame shot up into the air, and cast a lurid
+light on all around. I am sorry to record it, but the negro-men
+behaved very ill, refusing to lend assistance, (in most
+instances,) but employing their time in plundering from the
+sufferers. To the glory of the women, be it spoken, _they_ did
+not follow the example of their kinsmen, but cheerfully and
+firmly laboured through that awful night. The crew of two French
+ships of war, which chanced to be lying in the harbour, also
+assisted, aided by the sailors from the English and island
+vessels; and the gentlemen of the town, headed by the
+lieutenant-governor, Major McPhail, (who flew to the scene of
+danger stockingless and almost slipperless,) worked with
+undaunted courage and good-will; and by dint of energy, and
+pulling down several small houses, so as to make room for the
+flames in their gyral evolutions, at length succeeded in gaining
+the mastery over their formidable enemy.
+
+But, alas! when morning came, and threw a steady light upon the
+picture, what a melancholy sight was presented to the view. A
+long line of building, including the best and finest houses,
+entirely destroyed; lumber-yards and warehouses despoiled of
+their goods, and the very streets strewed ankle-deep with burnt
+salt-fish, peas, rice, flour, and similar articles! In some parts
+might be seen groups of negroes carousing around some gutted
+dwelling, tearing out the burning provisions, and, amid all this
+desolation and the mournful feelings of men, who, in one short
+night, had lost that for which they had toiled for years,
+shouting forth from their stentorian lungs snatches of some
+bacchanalian song, or allowing their vacant heartless laugh to
+vibrate painfully upon the silent morning air.
+
+Ever and anon, the smouldering fire sent up some fitful glare; or
+a brilliant coruscation of sparks, shot forth from some still
+burning log of pitch-pine, gilded the surrounding scene with
+their beautiful but dangerous showers. The fire burnt down to the
+sea-side; seizing upon the very timber of the wharfs and cranes,
+and destroying them to the water's edge. The amount of damage has
+been estimated at 250,000l. sterling; but the loss is more than
+can be calculated, for it has despoiled and depopulated one of
+the finest and busiest streets in the town, and which, from the
+depressed state of trade, will be long, very long, before it is
+again rebuilt.
+
+More than eight months have silently rolled by since that awful
+cry of "Fire" awoke the Antiguans from their tranquil slumbers,
+and sent a thrill of dismay through the hearts of all. And there
+stand the ruins, blackened and cracked by the intense heat which
+caused the very glass to pour down in streams, which, when
+congealed, appeared like icicles; or else, only shewing by the
+open space, where the ill-fated dwellings stood--where the voice
+of happy infancy once uttered many a jocund shout--or where the
+soft full tone of riper years carolled many a light and gladsome
+lay. Long grass and luxuriant weeds have already grown up in the
+spot once dedicated to business or pleasure, and the bat and the
+lizard have made it their own.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[68] The whites, or Buckra's, as they are called in the West
+Indies, however indigent in circumstances, pride prohibits them
+from engaging in such industrious pursuits.
+
+[69] Used for covering the tops of houses, as tiles or slates are
+in England.
+
+[70] A flag is always hoisted upon places where a sale is held.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XIX.
+
+
+
+  Description of the church of St John's--Period of its erection
+  --Present site--Panoramic views--Form of structure--Length and
+  breadth--Interior--Decorations--Monuments--Organ--Tower--Bells
+  --Clock--Churchyard--Tombs and sepulchral inscriptions--An
+  acrostic--"Adam and Eve!"
+
+The first place of public worship erected in St. John's was the
+parochial church, commenced in 1683-4. It was a small wooden
+building, standing about sixty yards further to the south than
+the present church; and, if we are to believe an old writer,
+totally destitute of beauty or comfort. During the administration
+of Gen. Walter Hamilton, it was found to be in such a dilapidated
+state, that in 1716 the necessity of erecting a new church was
+submitted to the legislature; and with the concurrence of the
+members of that body, an act was passed the same year, granting a
+provision for building a new place of worship, (to be dedicated
+to St. John,) and imposing a yearly tax for the purpose of
+keeping the said church in repair. It was not, however, until
+between the years 1721 and 1723, during the period that John Hart
+was administrating the government of these islands, that the
+erection of the church was commenced. Mr. Robert Cullen was the
+architect, and by his suggestions, its site was laid to the north
+of the old building; thus occupying the very spot where the
+militia were stationed in 1710, when ordered to fire upon
+Governor Park, in that unhappy difference between him and the
+country, and which ended so fatally to himself.
+
+The present parochial church is pleasantly situated upon an
+ascent, at the head of the town, and commands from every side a
+wide and beautiful view of the surrounding country. From the west
+door, the eye ranges over the bustling town, with its motley
+groups of passengers--dwells for a time upon the long line of
+ruined buildings destroyed by the fire already described--scans
+the lovely harbour, with its graceful shipping, the interesting
+bay of the Five Islands on the one side, and, on the other, a
+long line of cocoa-nut trees and brilliant sand, bespeaking the
+situation of Dickenson's Bay--and then roves on to the offing,
+where a large extent of ocean of the sweetest blue stretches out;
+and where, perhaps, a far-off sail may be seen, which looks in
+the distance like the white wing of some passing gull.
+
+From the south door, another beautiful and panoramic view may be
+obtained, particularly towards the close of the day, when the sun
+has almost completed his daily journey, and, shorn of his fervent
+beams, throws on every cloud his myriad dyes. The part of the
+town then presented to the gaze of the beholder slopes by a
+gradual descent towards the suburbs, bounded by Otto's Hill (an
+estate belonging to the representatives of Bastien Baijer) and
+the surrounding country. At the extent of the horizon runs a long
+range of mountains--the more distant ones presenting a greyish,
+gloomy colour, while others have their tops irradiated with a
+brilliant fringe of gold or purple, as the different clouds
+appear to rest upon them. Of this chain, the declivities of which
+afford every species of beauty, and every gradation of varying
+green, the lower ones are generally in a state of cultivation;
+and their undulating surface presents in some places groups of
+lovely trees, or breaks into patches of sugar-canes, clusters of
+negro-huts, and sugar-mills.
+
+The church itself, which is built of brick, washed of a light
+yellow, is cruciform; the north and south vestibules forming the
+arms of the cross. The extreme length, from the inner west door
+to the altar-piece, is 130 feet; and the breadth, exclusive of
+the vestibules, (or porches,) is 50 feet. In the interior,
+eighteen plain wooden pillars divide the nave from the north and
+south aisles; the sixteen lower ones forming the support to the
+north and south galleries. The roof of the nave is a semicircular
+vault, painted to represent the heavens, with all their drapery
+of light and fleecy clouds; and when viewed from the west door,
+has a very pretty effect.
+
+The chancel roof is of the same pitch, but of a pyramidal form;
+it is painted in the same manner as the nave, and is supported by
+four square fluted columns.
+
+The altar is very beautifully devised. In the centre are the
+tables of the ten commandments, gold-lettered upon a black
+ground. On each side are full-length paintings of Moses, and of
+Aaron, in his "holy garments." That of Aaron is very finely
+executed; the face is such as we can imagine that of the great
+"high-priest" to have been, majestic, but beautiful; and the
+"robes," the "breast-plate," the "ephod," the "curious girdle,"
+and the "golden censer," are very correctly painted. The outer
+tables of "The Belief" and "Lord's Prayer" are handsomely gilded
+--the inscription being executed in letters of black; and over
+the commandments, in the centre of the altar, is a medallion
+painting of cherubs. The several compartments are divided by
+gilded pilasters; the cornices, architraves, and friezes, are
+very pretty and tasteful; and in the inter-columniations are one
+or two triglyphs.
+
+The communion-table is covered with dark purple velvet, fringed
+deeply with gold; and on either end lie cushions to match. The
+communion-service plate is very handsome; the large salver,
+measuring eighteen inches in diameter, was presented to the
+church by John Otto Baijer, Esq., about the year 1724. It
+displays a representation of the "Lord's Supper," the figures in
+beautiful _basso-relievo_, and bears the following inscription:--
+
+               Donum Domini Johannis Otto Baijer
+               Ad Templum Divi Johannis Antigua.
+
+The two smaller salvers and the cup are inscribed as follows:--
+
+            In usum Templi Divi Johannis in Antigua
+         Gulielmus Jones Parochialis hujus olim Rector
+                          Donum Dedit.
+
+Besides the communion-plate, the table supports a pair of tall
+silver lamps, with ground-glass burners, bearing the
+inscription--
+
+             Donum Domini Petre Lee ad Templum Divi
+                      Johannis in Antigua.
+
+And on each side of the table stand quaint-looking chairs, for
+the accommodation of the bishop and archdeacon, which have been
+used for that purpose since the dismantling of the "Bishop's
+Pew."
+
+The pulpit and desk are of dark oak, as also the railings to the
+stairs; and, like the communion-table, have each their drapery
+and cushions of dark purple, with deep gold fringe and tassels,
+and the "I. H. S." encircled with its golden rays. Formerly the
+pulpit, surmounted by a sounding-board, stood further down the
+nave; but after being removed once or twice, the desk has been
+separated from the pulpit, and they are placed at the entrance of
+the chancel, on each side the aisle.
+
+About the centre of the church is suspended a brass chandelier,
+consisting of ten branches, which have been lately fitted up with
+ground-glass burners; it was a gift (by will, 2nd May, 1740) to
+the church, from Phillip Darby, an old inhabitant of Antigua, and
+rector of St. John's.
+
+At the entrance of the church from the north vestibule stands a
+small marble font, of a semi-spherical form, ornamented with four
+heads of cherubs, and supported by a corniform pedestal. It is
+intended to be placed at the extreme end of the middle aisle,
+immediately before the west entrance, and opposite the altar--a
+site far more applicable for it than where it now stands.
+
+The church is lighted by fourteen windows: six in the north
+aisle, six in the south aisle, and two in the east end of the
+building. Formerly they were all fitted up with _jalousies_; but
+within these last few years, the eight nearest the altar have
+been reglazed with ground glass, arranged in a Gothic pattern.
+These windows are divided into six compartments; and are so
+contrived, that, by aid of a turnscrew, they can be opened to a
+certain height. They certainly add to the _beauty_ of the
+edifice, but deteriorate from its _comfort_ by rendering it
+warmer than it otherwise would be: a circumstance not desirable
+in this fervid climate.
+
+Several fine monuments grace the walls of this sacred building;
+but the oldest sepulchral inscription is upon a stone slab, in
+the chancel, to the memory of Mrs. Gilbert, wife of Mr. Gilbert,
+who introduced methodism[71] in Antigua, and who died in 1747.
+
+In the south aisle are the following monuments:--
+
+An elegant mural monument of white marble upon a black ground,
+erected to the memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Ottley, wife of Richard
+Ottley, Esq., and daughter of Ashton Warner, speaker of the house
+of assembly in 1716. The ornamental part of this monument
+consists of the figure of a seraph with outspread wings, leaning
+upon a sepulchral urn, bearing a coronal of undying laurel leaves
+in its right hand; and in its left an inverted torch, partly
+extinguished, emblematical of the uncertainty of human life. The
+inscription is as follows:--
+
+"Near to this place is laid, with the remains of her honoured
+parents, the body of Elizabeth, the pious, amiable, and
+much-beloved wife of Richard Ottley; who departed this life, in
+the Island of St Vincent, on Thursday, 28th August, in the year
+of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and sixty-six, in the
+thirty-second year of her age.
+
+"She was the daughter of Ashton Warner, Esq.,[72]
+Attorney-General of Antigua, by Elizabeth, his wife, and was born
+the 7th June, 1735, O.S.; married 25th October, in the year 1753,
+and left issue surviving her, one son and three daughters--viz.,
+Drewry, Elizabeth, Mary Trant, and Alice.
+
+"She possessed a graceful person, an excellent understanding, and
+a sweetness of disposition that engaged the esteem of all that
+knew her, and performed with so much complacency the several
+duties in her family, and those of a good friend and neighbour,
+that it may be truly said she died universally lamented, and a
+real loss to that infant colony. Her inconsolable husband (in
+whose arms she expired, after bearing with admirable fortitude
+and resignation the excruciating pains of a long and difficult
+labour) caused this monument to be erected to her memory.
+
+"The son with whom she died reclines upon that breast which would
+have nourished him had the Almighty so permitted."
+
+A very chaste and elegant white marble tablet, forming a Gothic
+arch, erected to the memory of the Honourable Sam. Otto Baijer, a
+descendant of Bastien Baijer, who signed the capitulation in
+1666, bearing the following inscription:--
+
+             As a last mournful token of affection,
+                   This Tablet is erected by
+                  Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,
+              To the memory of her beloved Father,
+               The Honourable Samuel Otto Baijer,
+                Of Pares Estate, in this Island;
+                    Who died at Philadelphia
+                 On the 20th of December, 1835,
+                         Aged 54 years.
+
+               Also to the memory of her Mother,
+                  Elizabeth Mary Otto Baijer,
+                Who died in 1813, at Dove Hall,
+                   In the Island of Jamaica,
+                  In the 27th year of her age.
+
+               Also to the memory of her Brother,
+                 Rowland Archibald Otto Baijer,
+                     Son of the above-named
+        Samuel Otto Baijer and Mary Elizabeth his Wife,
+           Who died at Pares Estate, in this Island,
+                 On the 24th of November, 1837,
+                  Aged 25 years and 8 months,
+            And whose remains repose near this spot.
+
+A small, unpretending marble tablet:--
+
+                             Sacred
+                        To the Memory of
+                     Elizabeth Jane Harman,
+             Who died on the 16th April, A.D. 1828,
+                         Aged 21 years.
+          "We have this treasure in earthen vessels."
+
+A pyramidal monument, supported by fluted pillars, and bearing a
+small sarcophagus, surmounted by two figures of children or
+cherubs, holding in their hands a scroll, on which is written
+texts from Scripture. The inscription is as follows:--
+
+"Supported only by a meek obedience to the decrees of Eternal
+Wisdom, and a firm trust in the Atonement of a gracious Redeemer,
+William and Ruth Atkinson, once inhabitants of Antigua, and now
+of Dominica, as an inadequate evidence of their intense and
+aggravated anguish for the poignant and crushing trial they have
+undergone in the loss of both their children, pay this melancholy
+tribute, when advancing into manly, lively virtue, such as fills
+the parents' soul with solid comfort.
+
+"George Atkinson, their first and last spared hope, had nearly
+reached his twelfth year. This blooming prop of their declining
+age--when, by a mild and artless truth, joined to innate goodness
+and suavity of temper, he had irresistibly won the esteem and
+love of all--quitted this life without a struggle on Sunday, 5th
+Dec. 1779.
+
+"William Atkinson, their youngest, died in infancy.
+
+    What poets paint, what marbles feebly tell,
+    Defective far are all;
+    Such woes are only to be known
+    To real feeling souls.
+    Where equal growing filial worth's bewail'd,
+    The name of Son thus lost, all consolation fail'd.
+    1782."[73]
+
+A small tablet, representing a white scroll upon a black ground,
+surmounted by a laurel chaplet, bearing inscription:
+
+                          In memory of
+                         Auther Teagle,
+                     Who departed this life
+                  On the 20th November, 1839,
+                         Aged 43 years.
+                      "Thy will be done."
+
+In the north aisle are four monuments; the first, beginning from
+the east, erected to a late curate of St. John's. It consists of
+a white marble tablet, and above, the figure of an angel soaring
+upwards, and encompassed with clouds. The tablet bears the
+following inscription:--
+
+                        To the memory of
+             The Rev. William Thomas Bernard, A.B.,
+                  Of Trinity College, Dublin,
+                  Late curate of this parish,
+         Where, after a short residence of four months,
+         In the faithful exercise of his ministry, and
+            The manifestation of much private worth,
+               He died of fever, Nov. 2nd, 1835,
+                  In the 26th year of his age,
+              Most deeply and generally regretted,
+              This tribute of esteem and affection
+                          Is erected,
+              Partly by his much afflicted Sister,
+                        Ellen M. Baily,
+   And partly by the Right Rev. William Hart Coleridge, D.D.,
+                  Lord Bishop of this diocese,
+        The clergy of Antigua, and other friends in the
+               Island, who mourn his early loss.
+
+Beneath the tablet are his coat of arms, with the motto--
+
+                      "Bear and Forbear."
+
+A white marble monument, with a deep border of variegated brown
+marble, to the memory of a descendant of Sir Thomas Warner. The
+ornamental part consists of a female figure enveloped in
+widow-like drapery, and leaning upon an urn. The inscription is
+as follows:--
+
+                         This monument
+                  Is erected to the memory of
+              The Honourable William Warner, Esq.,
+           Who was a member of His Majesty's Council,
+                 And Treasurer of this Island.
+            Honourable by his office of Counsellor,
+                              But
+                   More honourable as a man:
+                             For if
+                 Virtue alone is true nobility,
+       And if justice, moderation, temperance, meekness,
+          Consummate honesty, charity, generosity, and
+Conjugal affection, are virtues that are held in any estimation
+                           Among men,
+                           This man,
+             Who lived in the exercise of them all
+                     Was truly honourable.
+He died on Friday, 11 October, 1771, in the forty-third year of
+his age,
+Universally regretted, and lamented by all orders and degrees
+among
+                              Us.
+    To commemorate her anguish for his loss, and as a public
+  Testimony of her love and duty, his disconsolate widow hath
+               Caused this memorial to be raised.
+                    Gloria in excelsis Deo!
+
+A very elegantly designed white pyramidal monument erected to the
+memory of an only child. A chastely sculptured female figure
+leans upon a "storied urn," with a beautifully chiselled wreath
+of flowers thrown around her. This monument has been
+unfortunately injured, one of the hands and part of the arm of
+the figure being broken off.
+
+          In memory of her only and beloved daughter,
+                         Sarah Kelsick,
+         Wife of Mr. John Kelsick, merchant in Antigua,
+              Who died on 20th day of March, 1785,
+                  In the 19th year of her age.
+     This monument was erected by her disconsolate mother,
+                        Sarah Eccleston,
+                 Wife of Isaac Eccleston, Esq.,
+                             1792.
+           From the parent, the husband, the friend,
+                 Her social and amiable virtues
+                Claim the tribute of affliction,
+                   And though early cut off,
+           She must ever live in the memory of those
+           Who had the happiness of her acquaintance.
+                   Vivit post funera virtus.
+
+The next is an elaborate and splendid monument, erected by the
+country to the memory of Ralph Lord Lavington; and however
+peculiar the taste which dictated the design, the execution, at
+least, possesses merit. The top figure represents his lordship in
+a sitting posture, habited in the old court dress, and his plumed
+hat lying at his feet. The inscription is traced upon a light
+grey marble, hollowed out so as to allow of the insertion of a
+small sarcophagus, bearing his coat of arms, with a
+beautifully-executed branch of oak-leaves thrown across it.
+
+Two female figures recline on each side; the one on the left
+hand, representing Astrea with her scales by her side, and the
+hilt of the sword of justice, very minutely and beautifully
+sculptured, protruding from behind the sarcophagus; her
+finely-formed and classic face is up-turned towards the old lord.
+In the other figure we behold the genius of the island, mourning
+for the loss of a favourite governor. She holds in her right hand
+a scroll, upon which is inscribed--"Resolved, that a monument be
+erected to his memory," while with her left hand she shades her
+features as if in deep grief. At the feet of these figures rolls
+the sea, the waves, surmounted with their foam, very well
+executed. This costly monument bears the following inscription:--
+
+                             Sacred
+                        To the memory of
+                  Ralph Payne Lord Lavington,
+                   Of the kingdom of Ireland,
+      One of His Majesty's most honourable Privy Council,
+        Knight of the most honourable Order of the Bath,
+         and Captain-general, and Commander-in-chief of
+                      The Leeward Islands.
+
+Upon the base of the monument is the following brief biographical
+inscription:--
+
+"He was born in the Island of St. Christopher's, of an English
+family, distinguished for its loyalty and public spirit. His
+education he received in England, and it prepared him for the
+distinctions which awaited his return to his native isle, when he
+was elected a member of the House of Assembly, and on its first
+meeting unanimously called to the chair of the House, in which
+high situation he gave an early display of those superior talents
+and eminent qualifications which afterwards secured him the
+confidence of his king, and the esteem of his country. On his
+return to England in 1762, he was elected a member of the House
+of Commons for the borough of Plympton, Devonshire; and from his
+perfect knowledge of colonial affairs, he was appointed in 1771--
+a period of national interest--to be captain-general and
+commander-in-chief of the Leeward Islands, at which time he was
+also invested with the most honourable Order of the Bath. He
+remained in the exercise of his government until 1774, when he
+returned to England, and was appointed a member of the Board of
+Green Cloth. During the period of his residence in England, he
+sat in five parliaments, and in 1795, his Majesty was graciously
+pleased to raise him to the dignity of a peer in Ireland, by the
+style and title of Baron Lavington of Lavington. In 1799, he was
+sworn one of his Majesty's most honourable Privy Council, and
+again appointed to the chief command of the Leeward Islands, in
+the wise and able administration of which important trust he
+passed his latter years
+
+                 And closed his venerable life.
+                         This nobleman
+             Was revered for his public qualities,
+           As he was beloved for his private virtues.
+He blended the dignity of his high office with the affability of
+his     disposition and the gracefulness of his manners,
+And at once commanded the respect, and conciliated the affections
+of all              ranks of people
+              Within the circle of his government
+As a sincere and lasting testimony of their veneration and
+regret,
+                   The Legislature of Antigua
+                   Have erected this monument
+He died at the Government House of this Island, on the 3rd day of
+Aug. 1807, aged 68; and was interred at his own estate, called
+Carlisles."
+
+The whole of this very handsome monument is enclosed in an arch
+of plain black marble. I should have mentioned that the
+ornamental parts of this tomb are all in pure _white_ marble.
+
+The remaining monument is erected to the memory of Mrs. Musgrave,
+who was unfortunately thrown out of her carriage (the horse
+becoming restive and breaking the shafts) and killed upon the
+spot. This unhappy catastrophe occurred in one of the streets of
+St. John's, and a representation of the event, absurd as it may
+seem, is sculptured upon the monument (which is of white marble)
+in basso-relievo. In the background is the animal, apparently of
+the cart-horse breed, scampering away with the broken shafts and
+traces hanging around him; in the foreground, is the figure of a
+man, kneeling and supporting in his arms a female, whose listless
+posture portrays the dire event. The face of the female is well
+executed, the features expressing acute suffering, while they
+tell the hand of death is upon them; but the figure is execrable
+in its proportions, the hand and arm being quite as large as the
+leg and foot of the man, if not larger. The inscription is as
+follows:--
+
+             "No warning given! unceremonious fate!
+            A sudden rush from life's meridian joys!
+               A wrench from all she loved."[74]
+                      Sacred to the memory
+                               of
+                        Eliza Musgrave,
+                Wife of William Musgrave, Esq.,
+             Of the Inner Temple, barrister-at-law.
+                     She departed this life
+             On the morning of the 12th Feb., 1815,
+                         Aged 24 years,
+           Beloved and lamented by all who knew her.
+                    Her God she reverenced;
+      Towards her neighbours she never wilfully offended;
+               To her husband she was everything
+          His fondest wishes could picture or embrace.
+                He idolized her while she lived,
+             And his respect for her exalted worth
+                   Survives beyond the grave.
+              The remembrance of her many virtues
+                  Remains indelibly inscribed
+                     In his dejected bosom.
+
+   "Friends, our chief treasure, how they drop!
+    How the world falls to pieces round about us!
+    And leaves us in the ruin of our joy!
+    What says this transportation of my friends?
+    It bids me love the place where now they dwell,
+    And scorn this wretched spot it leaves so poor."[75]
+
+The aisles of the church are paved with a coarse species of
+marble, laid down in alternate diamonds of black and white. The
+chancel is raised by two steps, and has a stone pavement. The
+body of the church contains 152 pews, but with the assistance of
+the galleries, of which there are three, affords about 1800
+sittings. The governor's pew is very neatly fitted up with
+crimson damask, and contains some gaily coloured ottomans; over
+the pew are the royal arms of England. Service is performed in
+the church on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays; and our exemplary
+rector, with true Christian indefatigability, administers the
+sacrament monthly, at eight in the morning, and after the usual
+morning service.
+
+The organ with which the church is furnished, was erected (partly
+by subscription) in 1760, at the cost of 450l. sterling, the
+vestry making up what was wanting. It is still a very fine
+instrument, and our talented and respected organist, G. Hart,
+Esq., fully recompenses us for any defects it may labour under by
+his inimitable execution.[76]
+
+At the west end of the nave rises a plain quadrangular tower,
+surmounted by an octagonal cupola. The elevation to the apex of
+the cupola is sixty-five feet; the altitude of the tower itself
+is fifty feet. This tower was not erected until 1789, some years
+after the parent church, but from being constructed of the same
+materials, presents a uniform appearance; the cupola is built of
+wood, the perpendicular compartments being _jalousied_. John
+Delap Halliday, Esq. gave 500l. towards its erection.[77]
+
+Within these last few months, two windows have been pierced at
+the east side of the tower, in the small chamber where the works
+of the clock are placed. These were made at the suggestion of Mr.
+Jones, the keeper of the clock, and which prove very beneficial
+to him when inspecting and cleaning that necessary appurtenance.
+Before that period this chamber was perfectly dark, which not
+only rendered the air within it extremely damp, but presented an
+obstacle to the due regulation of the instrument contained in it;
+for candles are but a sorry substitute for the clear light of day
+when employed in such delicate business as rectifying the
+machinery of a horologe. Under the care of Mr. Jones the works
+are kept beautifully clean, which of course will produce a good
+effect. This instrument was the gift of John Delap Halliday, (as
+may be seen by the inscription upon the works,) of Antigua, and
+the maker of it Charles Penton, London, 1788. The windows are
+glazed, and present exactly the same appearance as those to be
+found in the suburban dwelling-houses around that mighty
+metropolis, London.
+
+The tower contains two bells; the tenor one inscribed--"Edmund
+Powell, Golden Grove, 1684," and was kept for the use of the
+coloured classes in other days. The large bell was presented to
+the church by John Delap, (before he assumed the name of
+Halliday,) Esq., 1788. It bore the following inscription:--"The
+gift of John Delap, Esq. The Rev. James Lindsey, rector; Thomas
+Hanson Halloran, and Daniel Hill, churchwardens. Charles Penton,
+London, fecit. John Warner, founder, of London, 1788." It was
+taken down the 11th of February, 1840, on account of a serious
+injury beyond repair, shipped for London on board the "Antigua
+Packet," and exchanged for a new one of the same size, which now
+serves to call the people to church, and to speak the demise of
+the inhabitants; but it is silent at a wedding, for in this
+country no merry peal of bells announces that event which
+elsewhere is ever the signal for joy and festivity.
+
+Having attempted the description of the church, I will now
+proceed to mention the churchyard, which lies upon a gentle
+slope, and contains numerous tombs, with their iron or wooden
+railings. The most beautiful tomb in the ground was erected to
+the memory of the Honourable Otto Baijer, by his widow, who
+afterwards died on her passage to England in 1726. Her remains
+were brought back to Antigua, and now repose by the side of her
+loved husband. It is of pure white marble, although stained by
+exposure to the weather, and is elegantly ornamented with various
+fruits and flowers in basso-relievo.
+
+The oldest sepulchral monuments, of which I could make out the
+inscriptions, are to the memory of Troughton, 1704; Col. Philip
+Lee. 1704;[78] Capt. Bastien Baijer, 1715; Thos. Oasterman, Esq.,
+1724; Frederic Cope, 1739; and Mrs. Warner, the wife of Ashton
+Warner, Esq., 1748.
+
+The inscription upon the tomb of Frederic Cope demands, however,
+further mention. It is an acrostic; the _poetry_ I leave to the
+judgment of my readers.
+
+                        THE INSCRIPTION.
+
+   "F ar removed from every human eye he is,
+    R egardless now of earth, partakes of heaven's bliss;
+    E xalted was his lively soul whilst here below,
+    D elighted ever tender friendships for to show;
+    E asy and cheerful through every scene of Life;
+    R eady to forgive all; but unto me, his wife,
+    I ndulgent to the last degree, for ever kind--
+    C alm was his spirit, virtuous was his mind.
+
+    C areful he ever was to take no bribe in Law;
+    O h! full, full well the abject hate of mortals saw.
+    P artial he never was, just to each man's fame,
+    E ach initial letter will now declare his name."
+
+He was born in London, of honest parents, on the 21st day of May,
+1711, and died, in Antigua, on the 8th ------, 1739.
+
+A fine large marble tomb, to the memory of the Honourable Ashton
+Warner, who died 11th of February, 1762, stands near to this very
+original sepulchral acrostic; and at no great distance a single
+stone to the memory of some admiral (the inscription obliterated)
+with its anchors and flags, and escutcheons.
+
+On the east side of the north vestibule stands the tomb of
+Major-general George W. Ramsey, governor-in-chief of Antigua,
+Monserrat, and Barbados, in 1816, who departed this life,
+November 1st, 1819, in the 58th year of his age. The iron railing
+has become rusted and bent,[79] and the tomb bears many a
+blackened mark.
+
+Near to the last resting-place of governor Ramsey, stands another
+very handsome tomb of white marble, erected to that well-known
+and eccentric character, Patrick Kirwan. He was a native of
+Galway, and as true an Irishman as ever handled a shillelah, or
+vowed devotion to "the shamrock so green." Mr. Kirwan resided in
+Antigua for many years, as a planter and proprietor of estates,
+where his "bulls and blunders" are still remembered and repeated
+with delight. Upon one occasion he sent for a sun-dial from
+England, which he intended to have erected near his dwelling; but
+upon its arrival, it looked so smart with its golden rays and
+gnomen, that "Pat" pronounced it the very height of profanation
+to have such a pretty "cratur" exposed to the relentless shafts
+of master Sol; and so to preserve its beauty, and keep all
+secure, he had a tight snug shed built over it, which eventually
+forbid the entrance of any straggling sunbeam which might feel
+inclined to call upon it, to learn the hour. Poor Mr. Kirwan! his
+Irish blood was always leading him to commit blunders, which were
+sure to raise a laugh at his expense. During a partial rebellion
+of the negroes, at a period when he was manager of an estate, a
+few miles from the capital, he one morning presented himself
+before the proprietor with a very flushed face, and excited mien
+--"Good morning, Mr. Kirwan," said his employer. "What brings you
+to town so suddenly--you look alarmed, I hope nothing is the
+matter?" "Faith, an there is though!" retorted the Irishman, "and
+if the blessed St. Patrick himself had been here, he would have
+looked alarmed too. Why, there's a perfect _resurrection_ of the
+negroes upon your estate!" "A what?" inquired the surprised
+proprietor. "A perfect _resurrection_," repeated Pat, "and I have
+come to ask you what I must do?" His employer could scarcely
+repress a smile at this strange intelligence. At length, however,
+he summoned gravity enough to reply, "If that's the case, Mr.
+Kirwan, the best advice I can give you is, to put a _hoe_ into
+their hands as fast as they rise, and set them to work
+immediately."
+
+But with all his "_bulls and blunders_," Mr. Kirwan was
+deservedly respected, and his death universally regretted. He
+died in 1819, in the 66th year of his age. The inscription upon
+his monument informs us "By his direction this tomb was erected."
+
+At the entrance of the east gate is a mural stone monument,
+erected to the memory of James Cullen, by his brother Robert
+Cullen. This monument is pointed out to strangers on account of
+the peculiarity of its form, with the assertion that the person
+who built the church is buried there, and that the coffin is
+obliged to stand in a perpendicular position. This, however, is
+not correct; the monument certainly stands there, but the place
+where the body is entombed is 23 feet further to the west; and
+instead of being raised to the memory of the architect of the
+church, that individual erected it to perpetuate the memory of
+his brother. This fact is engraven upon the monument; but so
+unexploring are the Antiguans in general, that I think but few of
+the inhabitants are aware of the real truth, but still think the
+coffin stands upright.
+
+This strange practice of putting up the grave-stone at a distance
+from the grave is not the only instance of the kind to be met in
+the churchyard of St. John's. At one of the west gates lies a
+stone slab, to the memory of the late organist; and upon reading
+the inscription, I supposed that the body reposed beneath. But
+not so: that lies far away, with "not a stone to mark the place."
+Upon asking a pew-opener the reason for placing the slab in that
+situation, his reply was, "It does so nicely, you know, for the
+people to walk on, and looks well."
+
+The churchyard is entered by five iron gates, of handsome
+patterns. At the north, a flight of stone steps leads up to the
+church, while from the south gate, the building is approached by
+an easy and gradual ascent, paved with brick. The pillars of the
+south gate are surmounted by stone figures, representing St. John
+the Baptist, and St. John the Evangelist. These figures were
+intended to receive the vows of the good catholics at Dominica;
+but as it happened to be war time, when they took their departure
+from "_la belle France_," on their passage they fell in with an
+English man-of-war, who most unceremoniously took them into
+keeping, and brought them to Antigua; where, by universal
+consent, they were placed as sentinels in their present position,
+instead of being decked out in gold and silver leaf, and mock
+jewels. The negroes, however, refuse to recognise them by their
+own titles, but have unanimously dubbed them "Adam and Eve"--the
+Baptist, I suppose, playing the part of the lady, as his garments
+are longer and more voluminous than those of his companion.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[71] See Chapter XX.
+
+[72] A descendant of Sir Thomas Warner, who planted the first
+English colony in Antigua.
+
+[73] This strangely-worded inscription is copied verbatim.
+
+[74] Slightly altered from Young's "Night Thoughts."
+
+[75] Young's "Night Thoughts," Night 7th.
+
+[76] To the organ is attached a choir, composed of the boys and
+girls from the parochial school.
+
+[77] From this John Delap Halliday descends the present Admiral
+Tollemache--viz.--
+
+Lionel Tollemache, 3rd Earl of Dysert, born June, 1708; married
+Grace, eldest daughter of John Earl of Granville, by whom he had
+(among other issue) a daughter, Jane, married, 1770, John Delap
+Halliday, of the Leasowes, county of Salop, and of Antigua, Esq.,
+by whom she had issue, I. John Halliday, Admiral R.N., and who
+has assumed the name of Tollemache, and who married Elizabeth,
+second daughter of John, 3rd Earl of Aldborough, by whom he has,
+among other children, Elizabeth, the present Countess of
+Cardigan; and II. Charlotte, married Henry, fourth son of 6th Sir
+William Wolseley, of Wolseley, county Stafford.
+
+[78] The gentleman who presented the pair of silver candlesticks
+for the communion table. He was an Irishman by birth and
+education; but after having served in the wars in Flanders, he
+emigrated to Antigua, and became Speaker of the House of Assembly
+in that island in 1702.
+
+[79] It is said to have been done by lightning.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XX.
+
+
+
+  Court-house--Bazaar--Arsenal--Police-office--Government-house--
+  Barracks--House of correction--Gaol--Methodist chapel--
+  Methodism, its rise and progress in Antigua--Moravian chapel--
+  Rise and progress of the Society of United Brethren--Scotch
+  kirk.
+
+After the church and churchyard of St. John's, the next public
+building which calls for attention is the court house. This, as
+before stated, was erected in 1747, William Lowry being the
+mason, and Duncan Grant the carpenter. Who these worthies were I
+know not; but a glance at the court house proves they were
+efficient workmen. In order to raise funds to defray the expenses
+of its erection, the legislature obtained a loan of 746l. 12s.
+4-1/2d. currency, from the executors of Samuel and Thomas
+Watkins; and Jonas Langford (a proprietor of Antigua, and whose
+estates still go by his name) lent 1253l. 7s. 7-3/4d. currency,
+which debts were to be paid off by levying a tax of 2s. 6d. per
+head upon all slaves in the island for six years.
+
+The place where it stands was originally the market; but that
+site being the one most approved of for the erection of a public
+building, the market was removed to a street nearly facing it,
+where it has since been held.
+
+The court house is a very noble-looking pile for a West India
+colony, and indeed would not disgrace the boasted streets of
+London. The plan of the structure is very uniform and neat. It is
+built of a fine-grained freestone, the produce of some of the
+small islands already described, which was furnished by contract
+for the purpose by Mr. Robert Bannister, a former planter of
+Antigua.
+
+The principal entrance (to the south) is approached by iron
+gates; and after crossing a small court-yard paved with large
+flag-stones, you enter a small corridor, supported by circular
+stone columns, with plain capitals. At each end of this corridor,
+a flight of stairs leads to the upper apartments in the east and
+west wings, the one appropriated to the use of his excellency the
+governor, when he retires for the purpose of preparing his
+speech; the other to the clerk of the assembly; below are the
+marshal's office, and the office of the colonial secretary.
+
+The ground-floor of the main building comprises one large room,
+extending the whole length and breadth of the edifice. The east
+end being fitted up for the sittings of all courts of justice,
+has its bench for the judges, covered with crimson, and a chair
+for the governor (when present), over which are the national
+arms, where the "lion" grins with approved ferocity, and the
+"unicorn" shews its golden hoofs. Around a huge circular table,
+which might have feasted "king Arthur" and his gallant "knights,"
+even better than the stone one which is shewn as having answered
+for that purpose, are placed the sittings for the barristers,
+attorney-general, solicitor-general, and benches for the grand
+and petty juries. Exactly opposite the seat of the
+solicitor-general, a ready pen has scrawled upon the table a
+striking likeness of "his satanic majesty." I hope his aid was
+not necessary in that part of Astrea's court, at the time his
+lineaments were portrayed! This part of the interior is enclosed
+within a semi-circular mahogany railing. At the lower or west end
+of the apartment are congregated all the _canaille_--the very
+riff-raff of the town--who flock to hear speeches they understand
+as much as a Greek syllogism; the respectable spectators are
+admitted within the enclosure. The barristers plead in gowns, but
+not in wigs, very much to their comfort I should apprehend, in
+this warm climate.
+
+The upper floor of the court house is divided into two apartments
+by wooden partitions, leaving a lobby between; but these can be
+removed at pleasure, making the whole one room, as on the
+ground-floor. The east apartment is appropriated to the governor
+and council, when sitting; at other times for the use of the
+grand jury, or petty juries in criminal causes. A long table
+covered with "green cloth" runs across the room, and around which
+are placed very handsome chairs, of unique patterns, (oak, with
+cane backs, and green morocco seats and elbows,) the one destined
+for the use of the governor being of larger dimensions, and
+having the arms of England painted upon it.
+
+The west room is used for the meeting of the house of assembly,
+and is furnished in the same manner as the other apartment, only
+that under the royal arms (which are attached to the north side
+of the room) is a kind of rostrum, furnished with its proper
+seat, and intended for the accommodation of the speaker of the
+house of assembly.
+
+On returning by the west flight of stairs, my eyes were directed
+to a padlock in the wall, which formerly secured the ladder made
+use of at executions; but happy am I to say, such scenes are now
+of very rare occurrence in this island.
+
+I should have observed, that balls and dinners are sometimes held
+at the court house; as well as Bible and missionary meetings; and
+also fancy sales for charitable purposes. The last fancy fair, or
+rather bazaar, held there by the Church-of-England Association,
+was a very crowded affair. It took place on the day after
+Christmas-day, a day of all others devoted by the Antiguans to a
+display of dress. Not only all kinds of fancy and ornamental
+articles, fabricated by the fair hands of the Antiguan ladies
+were to be found there, but what pleased some part of the company
+much better, a well-filled lunch-table was spread, when pullets
+and guinea-birds, turkeys and ham, were joined to a whole army of
+tarts and puffs, fruits and confections. It was a motley group
+that frequented the court house that day: Iris would have found
+herself outvied in colours, and Fancy might have taken a new
+lesson. In one part of the room might be seen a member of the
+council, with his lady hanging upon his arm, and next to him a
+black labourer _with his lady_, in the same position; the latter
+couple making, in many instances, a far greater show than their
+aristocratic neighbours.[80] The military band was stationed in
+the lower apartment, and played during the day the most
+fashionable and favourite airs. The profits arising from this
+sale were appropriated to the purposes of assisting to defray the
+expenses of the new public cistern lately erected.
+
+Opposite the north side of the court house is the arsenal,
+erected in 1757 or 1758. It is, as might be supposed, a strong
+building, and stands in a court yard, enclosed with iron
+railings. To the east of the arsenal is the old guard-house,
+erected in 1754, during the administration of Sir George Thomas.
+It is a plain building, with two projecting wings; but it is now
+very much out of repair, not being used for any purpose.
+Adjoining the guard-house is a long stone building, with its
+grated windows, formerly used as the gaol of the island, but
+within these last few years turned into the police office,--the
+goal being removed to the suburbs of St. John's. This is a very
+great improvement; for this building, standing in one of the
+greatest thoroughfares of this populous town, and directly facing
+the market, the culprits who were immured for petty crimes, and
+kept in that part of the gaol, could look through their grated
+windows, hold converse with the passers-by, and thus disseminate
+their evil counsels among the idle and profligate of both sexes,
+who were always lounging about that spot. The dungeons where the
+felons used to be confined were gloomy dens indeed, and ran along
+the outer walls of the prison. One of these dungeons has been
+lately made into an engine-house, a door being broken through its
+massy walls facing the street. Upon passing this vault during its
+transformation, a sigh broke from my lips as memory carried me
+back to those fearful days when so many miserable creatures, who
+bore the name without the freedom of man, used to inhabit them,
+and often, it is said, from very trivial causes. Like Sterne, I
+fancied I could behold them in all their misery,--their bodies,
+perhaps, wasted with disease,--their eyes blood-shot and wild
+with despair,--their features sharpened by anguish of mind:--no
+one to soothe their grief,--no one to hear their complaint,--and
+without the _hope_, but not perhaps without the _fear_, of an
+hereafter, they left those cheerless vaults to be launched into
+eternity by the hangman's hands! The picture was too dreadful;
+but sounds of laughter and gladness were abroad, our carriage
+rolled on amid crowds of blacks of every sex and age; and
+although at times I suffer, as many others do, from their
+impudence of manners and behaviour, yet I felt in my heart a
+pleasure at their being _free_. The present building was erected
+in 1772, the former gaol having been burnt to the ground in the
+great fire of 1769.
+
+The next edifice worthy of notice is government house. It is
+situated in a pleasant and open space in the suburbs, and
+embraces a wide extent of prospect, while from its open windows
+as pure a breeze may be inhaled as attainable from any dwelling
+in the capital. Although possessing nothing very grand in its
+exterior, or internal arrangements, no marble pillars or lofty
+arches, yet it is a pleasant, genteel West Indian residence,
+possessing some good apartments, and having its stabling and
+other out-buildings upon a respectable scale. During the period
+his excellency is residing in the capital, the "Union Jack"
+floats from the top of the flag-staff, opposite government house;
+and then all loyal subjects pay their respects to their young and
+beautiful queen's representative.
+
+The custom house, as has already been mentioned, was destroyed in
+the fire of 1841. It was a very respectable edifice, and well
+suited to the purpose. The building now used in its stead is
+hired at the annual rent of 100l. sterling. The treasurer's and
+registrar's offices are also private property, for which a
+moderate rent is given.[81]
+
+From the custom house, I proceed to mention the barracks, very
+delightfully situated in a kind of open heath, to the east of the
+town. These consisted of two distinct buildings a few paces from
+each other; but the north wing of the lower one becoming
+dismantled and ruinous, it was resolved in 1831 to repair it, and
+appropriate it to the use of a gaol, instead of the building
+already described in the vicinity of the court house.
+
+In this gaol, far greater attention is paid to the unfortunate
+inmates than was formerly the case. The prisoners are furnished
+with two wholesome and sufficient meals a day, but no clothing or
+bedding is allowed, unless by order of the medical man attending
+them. The females are separated from the men, and the debtors
+from the felons; although in former years they all used to herd
+together.
+
+Since the year 1829, the Rev. Robert Holberton, the excellent
+rector of St. John's, has voluntarily visited the prison every
+Sunday between the hours of seven and eight a.m., to read
+prayers, and deliver a religious discourse to the inmates; and in
+all cases where an unhappy being has so outraged the laws of
+humanity and justice as to forfeit his life to pay the penalty of
+his crimes, that divine has ever stepped in with his message of
+mercy, prayed with them, and sought to soften their stony hearts;
+to lead them to that only fountain capable of washing away their
+deadly sins, and finally accompanied them to the last sad scene
+of their mortal career.
+
+One part of the gaol is converted into a house of correction, and
+the prisoners confined there are employed in breaking stones, or,
+under the surveillance of an officer, in working in the roads, or
+assisting in any other public works. A treadmill was sent for
+from England some time ago, but after costing the country a large
+sum, strange to say, no use is made of it. A shed is built over
+it, and there it remains quietly in the gaol-yard, and is likely
+to do so to the end of its existence. The reason for not using
+this machine, however, is said to be on account of the power
+required to work it, which necessarily calls for the exertions of
+a large gang; and although the house of correction is generally
+crowded with occupants, yet there has seldom been a sufficient
+number of culprits at one time condemned to that peculiar
+punishment, to set the treadmill going.
+
+The north end of the building is appropriated to the use of the
+officers of her majesty's troops, stationed for the time in the
+island; and notwithstanding its near proximity to a prison, must,
+I should think, be a very pleasant domicile. The privates are
+quartered at the other barracks, further to the east; and beneath
+the shade of a large tree growing near, their red-faced wives may
+be seen busily employed in washing their habiliments, while their
+sun-burnt children scramble about and chase the butterflies, who,
+gorgeous in colours, sport about the margin of a neighbouring
+pond.
+
+The next building to be mentioned is, the new Ebenezer Chapel,
+belonging to the Methodist society. The corner-stone of this
+edifice was laid by the Honourable Nicholas Nugent (then speaker
+of the house of assembly, but who now resides in England as the
+colonial agent) in 1837. A religious service was first held in
+the old chapel, and then, forming into a procession, consisting
+of ministers of the different sects in Antigua, some of the
+aristocrats of the island, the leading members of the Methodists,
+and the scholars of their Sunday-schools, they marched to the
+spot appointed for the erection of their new place of worship. A
+bottle containing the customary inscription was placed in the
+cavity the stone lowered to its proper situation, the three blows
+of the mallet struck, addresses delivered, and the ceremony was
+over.
+
+It is a spacious building, the front being constructed of
+free-stone, the gift of the Honourable and Rev. Nathaniel
+Gilbert. It is pierced with two tiers of windows; the upper ones
+arched and of larger size than the lower tier, which are very
+disproportioned to the extent of the edifice--a circumstance
+which tends to render it warmer than it otherwise would be. The
+ground-floor is appropriated to the use of the infant and Sunday
+schools, as also their "tea-parties," held for charitable
+purposes; above is the chapel, which is approached by an outward
+flight of stone steps. The interior is fitted up in the usual
+plain style; but boasts a smart display of blue and white paint.
+
+The pulpit, painted to represent oak, is an irregular octagon,
+supported by four fluted columns, and covered with purple
+drapery, bordered with yellow fringe, instead of gold; below is
+the reading desk. The pulpit is so lofty, which renders it
+inconvenient for such of the congregation as occupy the body of
+the chapel to follow the movements of the officiating minister.
+The galleries run round all sides, and are supported by plain
+cast-iron pillars, bearing each its neat-looking lamp. The last
+gallery is exclusively appropriated to the use of the children of
+the Females' Friend Society and the Sunday-school scholars; and
+here, also, is placed the seraphine belonging to the chapel,
+which serves to lead the vocal part of the service. Altogether,
+the chapel is an excellent building, superior to anything of the
+kind I have seen in the West Indies, and makes a good and
+commanding outward appearance, particularly when lighted up of an
+evening; but to my eye it looks more like reading rooms, or a
+philosophical institution, than a place of worship.
+
+Methodism was first established in Antigua in 1760, by the
+Honourable Nathaniel Gilbert, speaker of the house of assembly.
+In 1758, Mr. Gilbert visited England, carrying with him some of
+his negro servants; and during his stay there, he formed an
+acquaintance with the Rev. John Wesley, the venerable founder of
+Methodism, who baptized two of the negroes. Upon Mr. Gilbert's
+return to Antigua, he signified to those individuals who resided
+near him, that he should feel happy in meeting them at his house
+on certain evenings, when he would expound the word of God to
+them, and endeavour to enlighten their minds upon religious
+subjects. This invitation was eagerly accepted by many of the
+negroes and coloured people, and Mr. Gilbert was led to increase
+his views, and form a regular organized society, which in a short
+time amounted to two hundred members.
+
+This proceeding of Mr. Gilbert produced the greatest astonishment
+among the inhabitants of Antigua. A man in his rank of life to
+herd with negro slaves, and their coloured offspring, who,
+although perhaps they might be free, bore about with them the
+marks of their despised race!--oh! wondrous! incomprehensible!--
+the man must be mad, thought they. But when he, unmindful of
+their censure, proceeded in his acts of love towards these poor
+outcasts from the pale of society, their wonder knew no bounds;
+their feelings took another turn, and what at first was surprise,
+gave way to reproach and contempt. Mr. Gilbert, however, was not
+to be moved by what mankind said of him; he knew the consequence
+before he commenced his labours; and reckless of scorn or
+reprehension, he steadily pursued the path he had chalked out,
+knowing full well in whom he trusted. Thus he proceeded, until
+death called him from this world, and summoned him to reap his
+reward in heaven; when, strong in faith, he left his infant
+society without a shepherd to watch over its welfare.
+
+Mr. Gilbert derived his origin from a family of considerable
+distinction in the west of England, where one of its members--Sir
+Humphrey Gilbert--associating himself with his kinsman, the
+celebrated Sir Walter Raleigh, became one of the most eminent
+circumnavigators of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Dying, he left
+a son, Raleigh Gilbert, Esq., who, among other individuals,
+obtained from King James I. a large grant, in what was then
+termed Plymouth--the foundation of the afterwards glorious colony
+of Virginia, in North America--and where, in 1606, he emigrated,
+along with the Lord Chief Justice Popham; George Popham, Esq.
+(his son); William Parker, Esq.; and Thomas Stanham, Esq. Soon
+after this period, we find Raleigh Gilbert, under the title of
+Captain Gilbert, in command of a vessel manned with 100 men, and
+provided with ordnance, stores, and provisions, sufficient for
+the establishment of a plantation, which he (in conjunction with
+Captain Popham, a joint patentee, and in command of another
+vessel, similarly provided) began on the banks of the river
+"Sagadock," in the year 1608, and where they erected a fort,
+called Sir George's. Captain Popham, his zealous coadjutor,
+having died in this place, Captain Gilbert returned to England,
+where he took possession of an estate, fallen to him by the death
+of his elder brother, Sir John Gilbert, President of the
+Virginian Company. Another member of this family, we find, about
+the same time, leader of an abortive expedition to form a
+settlement upon the shores of the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia,
+and who, it appears, was well acquainted with those several
+islands which now form the Leeward Caribbee government. The
+following extract is taken from a work published in 1741 (second
+edition):--
+
+"In the same year, Captain Gilbert, in the 'Elizabeth,' of
+London, made a voyage to Virginia, but not with the like success.
+He traded with the savages in the Charibbe Islands--viz., St
+Lucia, Dominica, Nevis, St Christopher's, &c., and thence
+proceeded to the Bay of Chesapeake, in Virginia, being the first
+that sailed up it, and landed there. The Indians set upon him and
+his company in the woods, and Captain Gilbert and four or five of
+his men were killed by their arrows, upon which his crew returned
+home."
+
+We cannot undertake to say from which particular member of this
+distinguished family the Gilberts of Antigua sprang, but they
+were among its earliest settlers, and constituted some of the
+greatest ornaments of the colony, in which for so many years they
+have been proprietors. The present  most noble Marquis of
+Northampton, President of the Royal Society, descends, in a
+female line, from this family. His mother, the late marchioness,
+(married, August 18, 1787, to Charles, late Earl and Marquis of
+Northampton, and died, March, 1843,) being the daughter of a Miss
+Gilbert, (daughter of Nathaniel Gilbert, of Gilberts, Antigua,
+Esq., grandfather of the present Honourable and Reverend N.
+Gilbert,) by her husband, Joshua Smith, of East Stoke Park, co.
+of Wilts, Esq.
+
+But to return to Methodism. Unpromising as the state of this
+little society might seem, the good seed already sown was not
+destined to perish. The Great Shepherd cared for it; and when
+least expected, raised another pastor in the person of a Mr. John
+Baxter, a native of England. Mr. Baxter was a man who moved in
+humble life, and who worked in the capacity of shipwright, in
+Chatham Dockyard; but he was justly esteemed by all who knew him,
+a pattern to the society to which he belonged, and a
+highly-respected leader among Mr. Wesley's sect. In 1777, a
+proposal was made him by some of the directors of the Chatham
+Dockyard, to sail for Antigua, and work as foreman of the calkers
+in the naval establishment of that island. To this Mr. Baxter
+assented; but not so his friends: they made use of every argument
+in their power to make him forego his purpose--representing, in
+the most glowing colours, the distance he would be from all he
+loved; the dangers of the ocean, over which he must pass; and the
+difference, perhaps insalubrity, of climate he would have to
+contend with. But all without avail; he felt an unconquerable
+desire to visit that portion of the globe, and accordingly,
+bidding his friends farewell, he left England, and arrived in
+Antigua on the 2nd of April, 1778.
+
+As might be expected, he found the infant Methodist Society in a
+very languishing state. Upon hearing of his arrival, and of his
+being a member of the same sect as their beloved benefactor, the
+little band waited upon him, and after welcoming him to their
+shores, begged him to tell Mr. Wesley he had many children in
+Antigua whom he had never seen, but who were earnestly desirous
+of his aid. On the following Sabbath, Mr. Baxter met them in the
+services of religion, and from that day constituted himself their
+pastor; which office he performed until his death, assembling
+them together on Sundays, and performing the full service, as in
+England, and on the other week-days, after his labours in the
+dockyard were over, visiting the different estates, and teaching
+the poor slaves the road to salvation.
+
+His exertions were greatly blessed; and by the following year,
+1779, six hundred negroes were joined to the congregation. He now
+contemplated the erection of a chapel, and for that purpose
+instituted collections among his people, and adopted every other
+consistent method to acquire funds to carry out his plans.
+
+Mr. Baxter's situation was productive of great discomfort to
+himself; his duties to be performed in the naval-yard were very
+laborious; and after a long day's work, his evenings were spent
+in travelling from plantation to plantation, the harbinger of
+Gospel news. He had no one to assist him in his self-appointed
+task, but for some years laboured on alone. In 1782, he mentions
+in a letter to a friend, "There is no white person in the
+congregation but myself. At St. John's, thirty coloured persons
+receive the Lord's Supper."
+
+Assistance, however, was not so far off as he supposed. About
+this time an Irish family (who were all members of Mr. Wesley's
+sect) were persuaded by an unprincipled captain of a trading
+vessel, to sell all their little property, and emigrate with him
+to America. Deceived by his plausible manners and fair speeches,
+they acquiesced in his proposals; and turning all their goods
+into money, the whole family, consisting of an elderly father and
+mother, a son, and some daughters, embarked on board his vessel,
+and sought with him their better fortune in a far-off land. But
+their false friend having inveigled them into his power, under
+various pretences, robbed them of their little all, and then
+deserted them, in a strange country. After suffering many and
+bitter privations, they found their way to Antigua, where they
+eventually became valuable assistants to Mr. Baxter.
+
+In the meantime, Mr. Baxter's great object, the erection of a
+Methodist chapel in St. John's, was rapidly being accomplished;
+and on the 8th of November, 1783, that worthy man, with an
+overflowing heart, had the happiness of preaching his first
+sermon in it, to a full and serious audience. In the space of the
+three following years, the society increased to 2000 persons.
+
+In 1786, Dr. Coke, the Wesleyan missionary and historian, left
+England, for the purpose of spreading gospel tidings in America.
+Meeting, however, with violent gales, the ship in which he took
+passage was unable to make her destined port; and after
+encountering a series of disasters, as a last and only resort,
+was obliged to put into Antigua, in distress. Dr. Coke was
+delighted to find the Wesleyan society in that island in so
+satisfactory a state--a circumstance he was unprepared for; and
+in his letters to England, expresses in warm terms his pleasure
+upon the subject.
+
+The first conference was held at Antigua, in the year 1787; but
+the annual conferences, or district meetings, were not
+established until 1793, when, on the returns being made, the
+society was found to consist of 6570 members; out of which there
+were 36 white, and 105 coloured persons. Although the Methodist
+society had progressed so far, and embraced so many members, yet
+its proceedings were reviled and insulted by the greater part of
+the white inhabitants. All kinds of petty insults were heaped
+upon its pastors; while their place of worship was made the scene
+of vulgar waggeries and ribald jests. One favourite amusement
+with many of the young men of that period was, to procure a live
+goat, and after hampering its legs, fling it into the midst of
+the assembly, while engaged at their devotion at the Methodist
+chapel. At other times, in order to vary the sport, the goat was
+secured against the chapel door; and as the minister pronounced
+the amen, or the members raised their hymns of praise to God, the
+poor animal was beat and kicked until it joined in chorus with
+its deep and unharmonious cries, which were received with bursts
+of applauding laughter by its foolish captors.
+
+Mr. Baxter, although a very _good_ man, was not, I have
+understood, possessed of very superior talents; and accordingly,
+many of his discourses produced much merriment among that class
+of persons who frequented his chapel for the sake of passing
+criticisms, as well as killing time. He had a favourite servant
+living with him, whose name was John Bott, and who attended to
+the lighting up of the chapel, as well as performing his home
+duties. Upon one occasion, John neglected to snuff the candles;
+an omission which caused his master so much uneasiness, that,
+after endeavouring in vain to read the portion of Scripture
+selected, he was fain to interrupt himself in the midst of a
+passage--"And Nathan said unto David--John Bott, snuff the
+candles!" This intervention, as may be supposed, caused a tumult
+of laughter; nor (said an ear-witness) could his own people
+restrain their risible faculties. But to return. About 1793, Dr.
+Coke paid Antigua another visit, and preached upon many
+plantations; one of which was Sir George Thomas's, at North
+Sound. The old chapel at Parham was erected in 1802; the returns
+of the society made that year were, 4000 persons.
+
+The year 1805 was marked by the Methodists as that in which their
+friend and pastor, Mr. John Baxter, closed his mortal career,
+after a well-spent life--twenty-seven years of which he passed in
+Antigua.[82] He died November the 13th, 1805, and was interred in
+the churchyard of St. John's; but if any stone marked the place
+of burial, time has obliterated the inscription, or else
+shattered the tomb. The visitor may look in vain for such a
+memento. It appears strange to me, that the Wesleyans of Antigua
+have never erected monuments to the memories of Mr. Gilbert and
+Mr. Baxter. I am sure there are members enough to do this; and it
+would be but paying a proper tribute of respect to the memories
+of those excellent men, and founders of that sect in this island.
+Perhaps, they may take the hint, and allow the walls of their
+handsome chapel to be graced with two neat marble tablets devoted
+to that purpose.
+
+But to proceed. Since Mr. Baxter's death, the Wesleyan society
+has been rapidly progressing, not only in Antigua, but in all the
+other West India Islands, although Antigua is still looked upon
+as the parent church; and in 1842, the society in that island
+consisted of about 2700 members. Beside the chapel in St. John's,
+they have places of worship at Parham, English Harbour,
+Willoughby Bay, and elsewhere.
+
+Thus, from a small beginning--from a few black slaves gathered
+together by night beneath the roof of a white man--this society
+has spread far and wide, like some huge wave, until now it boasts
+a vast increase of number, of every variety of shade, from the
+ruddy son of Britain, down to the jetty offspring of Afric's
+soil. Great success has attended the preaching of this sect; and
+although an episcopalian myself, and consequently more attached
+to that form of worship, I cannot let the opportunity pass me
+without offering my mite of praise to the character of their
+undaunted and fervent ministers, tendering my hearty wishes for
+their further progress, and, at the same time, expressing my firm
+belief that they have, through God, been the means of preventing
+much crime, and saving many, very many, from the fearful
+retribution, the inevitable attendant on a misspent life.
+
+From this view of the Methodist Chapel and Methodism, I proceed
+to mention the Moravian settlement. The Moravians, or rather,
+"United Brethren," as many of my readers may be aware, revived
+under the celebrated Count Zinzendorf, a native of Germany, who,
+with some of his followers, visited England in the reign of
+George II., and formed several settlements of their sect in
+different parts of that kingdom. They also established colonies
+in Greenland, Labrador, and other parts of North America, and in
+South America.
+
+In 1731, Count Zinzendorf visited Denmark, for the purpose of
+attending the coronation of Christian VI., who, by the death of
+his father, was called to the throne of that kingdom. During his
+residence at that court, some of his domestics became acquainted
+with a negro, named Anthony, from one of the Danish islands. This
+man related many instances of the moral darkness in which the
+West Indies were enveloped, and of the distressed state of the
+negroes; which being repeated to the count, he felt an invincible
+desire to send missionaries to that part of the world, to
+proclaim the "tidings of great joy" to those poor benighted
+negroes.
+
+In 1732, this desire was carried into effect; and two
+missionaries were despatched from "Herrnhutt," (the principal
+Moravian station, in Lusatia, Germany,) to St. Thomas. Other
+missionaries followed them; and in 1733, they planted their
+standard in St. Croix. In 1754, the society in London sent
+missionaries to Jamaica, who were followed by some of the
+brethren from America; and in 1756, Samuel Isles, a true and
+exemplary Christian, came from St. Thomas, where he had been
+residing as missionary for eight years, and established the first
+Moravian settlement in Antigua.
+
+Their labour of love was at first very slow in its progress; but
+they succeeded, in 1761, in raising a chapel, for the
+accommodation of the negroes, on a spot of land, purchased for
+the purpose, in St. John's. Still their society rather decreased
+than flourished, until, about 1768, there were only fourteen
+members in the church at St. John's. Disheartening as these
+circumstances were, like true soldiers of the Cross, they would
+not lay down their arms; and at length, their faith and patience
+met with their reward. A wonderful revival took place, and in
+1775 "the number of their stated hearers amounted to 2000; and
+never a month elapsed without an addition to the church of ten or
+twenty by baptism."
+
+By the year 1787, 5465 negroes were admitted into the church.
+Their first settlement was situated at St. John's; but in 1782,
+they had formed another at Grace Hill, or, as it was first
+termed, Bailey Hill; a delightful spot, about ten miles from the
+capital. The number baptized at St. John's, in 1789, was 507;
+while at Grace Hill, 217 were admitted into the church by that
+ceremony. By this time, five preachers were settled in Antigua;
+and in the course of the two following years, the society
+enrolled 7400 members. At the present period, 1842, the number
+may be estimated at 11,000.
+
+Their settlement at St. John's is situated in Spring Gardens, at
+the extreme north end of the town, and looks the very picture of
+neatness and domestic comfort. The present chapel, erected in
+1773, is a plain building--devoid of any great architectural
+beauty, it is true, but interesting from its very simplicity, and
+from being built by the negroes in times of slavery. The rapid
+increase of their numbers, already mentioned, rendered it
+necessary to provide a larger place of worship; which fact being
+mentioned to their negro converts, they immediately commenced
+procuring some of the materials, by each bringing a few stones
+with them, when they came to their evening meetings in the week.
+Those of them who were masons and carpenters worked with the
+greatest energy "in their free hours, after their daily tasks
+were done; and those who could not assist in the labour provided
+victuals for the workmen." Since that period, the chapel has had
+many enlargements and alterations made to it. The dwellings of
+the preachers are gathered around it; and their neat,
+cheerful-looking burying-ground, in which grows many a beautiful
+tree, bounds the settlement to the east. Everything about them
+looks green, and fresh, and lovely; and their wives, in their
+neat caps, and Quaker-like style of dress, and the often very
+pretty, but quiet contour of their features, appear in perfect
+harmony with the other parts of the picture. I must say, I like
+the Moravians: they seem to have so much open-heartedness about
+them--such patriarchal simplicity of manners. Among themselves
+they are ever kind and courteous, forming, as it were, one large
+family of affectionate brothers and sisters. They have done much
+good among the black race, for whose welfare the mission was
+particularly intended; and many happy deaths among them attest
+the truth. Besides their settlement in St. John's, they have
+several in other parts of the island; namely, at Grace Hill,
+Grace Bay, Newfield, Cedar Hall, Lebanon, Gracefield, and Five
+Islands.
+
+Among their ministers, men of learning and talent may be found.
+Their superintendent, the Rev. Mr. H------, is a great biblical
+scholar, possessed of superior faculties, and a good nervous
+preacher; but some of their missionaries, although far from
+deficient in erudition, from being natives of Germany, and not
+thoroughly acquainted with the English language, are almost
+unintelligible to English ears. I cannot say I admire the singing
+part of their service; at a given signal they all seem to dart
+off at the highest pitch of their voices, and keep on without
+regard to time or melody. However, I understand they have also a
+seraphine for the use of their chapel, which may tend to modulate
+the discordant voices of their congregation.[83] I hope these
+last few remarks may not be understood as unkind or sarcastic.
+Far be it from me to scoff at _any sect_. True it is I note their
+peculiarities; but if founded on the conscientious belief of the
+propriety of their own form of worship, I would not raise a laugh
+at the fantastic movements of even the "Jumpers" or the "Shakers"
+by any animadversions of mine.
+
+The last and remaining edifice I have to mention, is the
+half-finished kirk of the Scotchmen. The foundation-stone of this
+place of worship was laid with the usual ceremonies by Sir Wm.
+Colebrooke, the late governor, on the 9th of April, 1839. It is
+situated upon an ascent on the eastern outskirts of the town, and
+from it may be seen many a lovely landscape, which Claude
+Lorraine would not have scorned to imitate. It progresses but
+slowly; but still it has been known for the tortoise to outrun
+the hare, and win the race, and therefore the Scotch kirk may yet
+exceed some of its contemporaries. In its present form I can say
+but little about it, except that the same fault cannot be found
+with it as there has been with the Methodist chapel--the small
+size of the windows--for the Scotch kirk appears to be all
+windows and doors. If, however, the Scotchman will make haste and
+finish the building, I will promise to write all about it; in the
+meantime, as I have already made this chapter of leviathan
+dimensions, I will make my courtesy, and--exit for the night.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[80] This social assemblage of "white" and "black" is one of the
+good effects of emancipation. Some years ago this dark-skinned
+race would have been kept from within the precincts of the walls
+by the point of a bayonet, as it was the custom on similar
+occasions to have a guard.
+
+[81] The dates of papers in most of these offices commence from
+1668, after Antigua was restored by the French, and Lord W.
+Willoughby settled in the government by his majesty Charles the
+Second.
+
+[82] Mr. Baxter gave up his situation in the dock-yard after the
+erection of the chapel in St. John's, and removed to a small
+house erected in the chapel-yard, and continued to fill the
+office of the established minister until his death.
+
+[83] This is a misinformation. There is no seraphine in the
+chapel, but a small but very sweet-toned organ in the
+school-room. Upon a late visit to the chapel, however, I find
+that the congregation is very much improved in their style of
+singing.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XXI.
+
+
+
+  Morning--Institutions--Daily Meal Society--Its rise and
+  progress--Lazaretto--Destitute Females' Friend Society--Its
+  origin and purpose--Friendly societies--Bible Society--
+  Missionary associations--Temperance Society--Juvenile
+  Association--Ladies' Clothing Society &c.--Banks--Library
+  Society.
+
+Another morning is come--a bright glorious morning: the sky is as
+deeply blue as the breast of the kingfisher, except where here
+and there a snowy pyramid of clouds mounts slowly up the heavens.
+Through the open windows of my apartments, a rich flood of
+sunshine pours in, and plays upon the floor in many a fanciful
+chequer. The bright red flowers of the "Scarlet Cordia" hang in
+tasteful branches from among their broad green leaves, and
+attract the attention of the little humming-bird, who, in their
+changeful plumage, flit around, and rob the flowers of their
+liquid sweets. The breeze is as gentle as an infant's sigh, a
+dreamy stillness is abroad, and--but what was that?--rain, I
+declare! A gloom has silently and suddenly overspread the sky;
+the late white-robed clouds have become covered with a darkened
+hue; the wind has raised its pipe; the rain comes pouring down,
+and chases away my feathered favourites. I can write no more of
+bright skies and glowing sunbeams, and therefore I must proceed
+in my task, which the beauty of the morning drove from my
+thoughts; and having already attempted a description of the
+buildings of St. John's, I shall now endeavour to give some
+account of its institutions.
+
+The first to be placed upon the list, not from the number of
+years it has been established, but from its extent, is the Daily
+Meal Society, for information respecting which I am indebted to
+the Rev. Robert Holberton. This society, intended for the purpose
+of "supplying the sick and needy, of St. John's and its
+neighbourhood with a daily meal," was established in the year
+1828, the management of its affairs being "undertaken by a
+committee of seven gentlemen in the town, (the present Speaker of
+the House of Assembly being the treasurer;) three of the clergy,
+(the Rev. Robt. Holberton being the secretary;) and five of the
+medical gentlemen." They hold their meetings in the
+churchwarden's office, and on the 18th of June, 1828, a female
+superintendent was appointed at a salary of 50l. currency per
+annum. A "soup-house" was erected in the yard attached to the
+superintendent's dwelling to the east of the church, the land
+being allowed to the society, free of rent, for the space of
+seven years by the heirs of "Donovan's Estate." A ship's boiler
+having been presented to the society, it was immediately put into
+requisition, and the first meal distributed the 2nd of August,
+1828, to thirty-six persons.
+
+Up to that time there was no parochial relief for any black or
+coloured person; and consequently, when the establishment of such
+a society became known, the sick and aged among those classes
+eagerly sought for shelter, and an alleviation of their
+distresses. The medical gentlemen of St. John's having offered to
+attend gratuitously, in monthly rotation, the cry of these
+unfortunate people was responded to; and five small houses,
+adjoining the "soup-house," having been first rented, and
+afterwards purchased by the society, fourteen of these afflicted
+ones were received and succoured. Many a poor outcast found his
+throbbing heart at rest when possessed of these humble
+accommodations; many a sufferer had his pains alleviated, and the
+oil of mercy poured into his wounds. Five or six successful
+amputations were also performed there during that early period.
+
+The rise and progress of this institution is so interesting, that
+I think I cannot do better than follow up the account of it, in
+the words of the Rev. Mr. Holberton, published in a "Brief
+Review:" "After the destructive hurricane of 1835, (when this
+society was found signally useful in furnishing a comfortable
+meal daily to the houseless poor,) the unappropriated residue of
+a grant from the legislature, for restoring some of the damaged
+houses of the poor of St. John's, was handed over to the
+committee of the Daily Meal Society, with the understanding that
+shelter should be given to those whose houses were considered
+past repairing. This testimony of public confidence, together
+with a handsome private donation of 90l. sterling, occurring at
+the very time when the land on which the institution had stood
+for seven years was required by the owner, stimulated the
+committee to attempt to re-establish it on a more extensive
+scale."
+
+Mr. Holberton proceeds to pass some high encomiums upon the Very
+Rev. the Archdeacon Parry (late of Antigua) for the great
+interest felt by him in the success of the society--encomiums, no
+doubt, richly his due; but the rector was necessitated to forego
+mentioning what it is in my power to do, that it was principally
+through his own kind heart, and from his deep Christian
+principles, which led him to exert every energy in its behalf,
+that the Daily Meal Society had its origin, and is in its present
+flourishing condition.
+
+Mr. H. proceeds: "Chiefly at his" (the archdeacon's) "instance, a
+successful application was made to the legislature for a piece of
+land near the rectory, 300 feet long by 100 feet wide. This was
+enclosed with strong palisades, and within were erected a
+kitchen, or 'soup-house,' of stone, 30 feet long and 15 wide, a
+wooden house, 60 feet by 20 feet, divided into six apartments,
+capable of accommodating four persons in each. A well was also
+dug 24 feet deep, and four of the wooden houses which stood on
+the old site were transported to the new one. The expense of
+effecting these objects amounted to 1300l. currency, of which
+about 1000l. currency was raised by subscriptions. This
+establishment was opened on 8th March, 1837, under the name of
+the _Asylum_, and has been providentially raised up to meet, in
+the most satisfactory manner, the various cases of distress that
+have occurred since the general emancipation in 1834, and has
+effectually done away with begging in the streets of St. John's."
+
+As leprosy is a frequent disease among the negroes, and, from its
+contagious character, doubts had arisen upon the propriety of
+admitting persons suffering from that dreadful complaint into the
+asylum, it was determined in 1836 to open a subscription list for
+the purpose of erecting another building for their reception.
+That they might have the benefit of sea-air and sea-bathing, the
+site chosen for it was by the sea-side. This building was
+commenced in 1837, and "although, from want of funds, scarcely
+one of the two wings could be completed, admission was given to
+five leprous persons on the 25th of April in that year." The
+society, however, "was compelled to declare that, without
+parochial allowances, the institution must fall to the ground.
+The claim to such help was at once seen to be most reasonable and
+highly needful, and the desired combination of _parochial_ with
+_voluntary_ relief was speedily effected. The legislature
+granting 600l. currency the following year, the debts were paid
+off, and the building finished and publicly opened under the
+title of the Lazaretto, on the 20th June, 1838."
+
+The Lazaretto consists of "six rooms for females and six for
+males, capable of accommodating three in each, besides one small
+room for one person only. The enclosed yard has been, for the
+most part, converted into plots for provisions, and for keeping
+poultry in. Some bamboos have been planted, which will in time
+afford materials for making baskets, about which one of the men
+is industriously employed, and by the sale of his work contrives
+to purchase clothes for himself, at half-price, from the Ladies
+Clothing Society. All the inmates appear thankful and contented,
+and some have shewn a readiness to receive scriptural instruction
+that is very pleasing." Poor creatures! some of them are, indeed,
+objects for the deepest commiseration, but their sufferings are
+alleviated as far as possible. Their residence is a delightful
+situation; the sea-breeze comes so pure from off the bosom of the
+ocean, that one would suppose disease must fly before it. From
+the farthest point of the land runs a causeway over to Rat
+Island, (the promontory already mentioned as being the site of
+one of the forts,) made about the year 1748, and which is
+passable at ebb-tide. Upon this promontory, which rises in the
+form of a steep mount, a lunatic asylum has been built during the
+past year, (1841,) the legislature having voted a sum for that
+purpose, for the use of such inmates of the institution as have
+shewn symptoms of aberration of mind.
+
+In 1838, the legislature gave a further grant of 500l. currency
+to the society, for the purpose of erecting "a separate ward for
+the male patients, with ten apartments capable of accommodating
+four persons in each," in that part of the establishment situated
+near the rectory, which was finished and opened on the 15th July,
+1839. An iron tank, capable of holding 7000 gallons of water, has
+been imported from England, and placed in the yard of the same
+portion of the institution. In 1840, the title of the society was
+changed from that of "The Asylum" to "The Daily Meal Society's
+Infirmary and Lazaretto," by which latter designation it is now
+distinguished.
+
+This establishment is, indeed, the only infirmary and hospital in
+the island, (with the exception of the cast-iron hospital at the
+Ridge, near English Harbour, for the use of the troops;) and not
+only the destitute poor of St. John's, but the poor from all the
+other parishes are admitted into it, as well as distressed and
+destitute sailors. The best medical attendance is procured for
+them; wine and other strengthening nourishment administered to
+the sick; and three wholesome meals allowed to each individual
+per day. Bedsteads and bedding are also supplied, there being "in
+the female ward six, and in the male ward ten furnished
+apartments, ready for the reception of patients at the shortest
+notice."
+
+Nor are these the _only_ accommodations this inestimable charity
+affords to the poor and distressed of our species, there being
+seven detached houses on the opposite side of the inclosure,
+capable of containing two, three, or four persons in each. "In
+these separate dwellings infirm persons are distributed, whose
+complaints, habits, or tempers, render it expedient that they
+should be kept by themselves. One house, fronting the
+burial-ground, is reserved for the reception of the dead previous
+to interment, and is used for a dissecting room when required.
+Eighty inmates can be comfortably accommodated at the infirmary."
+The income for the last year, (1841,) including subscriptions,
+donations, legacies, and parochial relief, was 1361l. 0s. 4-1/2d.
+currency, the expenditure, 1225l. 4s. 4d.; the latter sum would
+have been of greater extent was it not from the kindness of many
+of the Antiguan proprietors, in presenting each a barrel or two
+of sugar.
+
+Thus have I gone with Mr. Holberton through the "rise and
+progress of the Daily Meal Society." Perhaps some of the truly
+charitable inhabitants of dear old England may be induced to send
+their mite across the waters in aid of this society, of whose
+existence they may probably not have been hitherto aware; and as
+I knew it was out of my power to use more cogent language--
+language which speaks to the heart--nor advocate the cause so
+well as our excellent rector, I have therefore quoted so largely
+from his "brief review," feeling assured he will pardon me, and
+hoping my readers will bear with me. In conclusion, I will once
+more use his words and say--"It is undeniable that the hand of
+God has been over it to sustain it in its small beginning, to
+uphold it in every difficulty, and to raise it to its present
+prosperity. To God, then, be all the praise; and may the success
+with which He has been pleased to crown the exertions of the
+society provoke every member and friend of it to increasing
+diligence in these works of charity, for which there will still
+be a continual call."
+
+The next charitable institution to be mentioned is "the Destitute
+Females' Friend Society," or, as it is now termed, "the Female
+Orphan Society." This latter title is, however, a misnomer, for
+but few of the inmates are orphans in the true sense of the word,
+they being, but with few exceptions, the illegitimate children of
+black or coloured women, (by white or coloured persons,) whose
+parents, still alive, are, from penury, incompetent to maintain
+them, or are living in a state of concubinage, and consequently
+not proper guides to youth.
+
+This society, which is invaluable, and is well known in England
+by its first name, although, perhaps, lost sight of in its
+modernized title, was established about the year 1816. The origin
+of it was as follows:--
+
+"The attention of a few pious and benevolent individuals of the
+female sex was called to the situation of an indigent class of
+coloured children of their own sex, (for whom there was then no
+parochial relief;) and witnessing with feelings of poignant
+regret their moral and religious degradation still more than
+their bodily necessities, they were impelled to exert, in
+connexion with a few other friends, all their united energies for
+the amelioration of the condition of these unhappy children, and
+thereby lessen the evils resulting to the community in general
+from a generation growing up without religious or moral
+cultivation. To effect these desirable objects, it was resolved
+to make an immediate and bold attempt.
+
+"The attempt was bold, because it could not be carried into
+execution by persons circumscribed in their means of doing it
+without the concurrence and aid of others like-minded, and of
+whose co-operation they were not assured. Encouraged, however, by
+one whose heart devised liberal things, though possessing himself
+little power to accomplish them from his own resources, but
+favoured with influence over some who considered themselves as
+stewards appointed by God to benefit their fellow creatures, and
+assured by him of competent aid from England, if it could not be
+obtained in Antigua, a commencement was made by a few
+subscribers, chiefly respectable coloured persons; and several
+children were immediately taken to be clothed, fed, and
+instructed; and when the plan was made known to the community at
+large, and to other benevolent individuals in England and
+Scotland, the society, by their generous assistance, grew into
+its present state of maturity. Such was its origin, and we cannot
+but observe in it the benefit resulting from a social compact to
+do good to our fellow creatures--the design to rescue from the
+paths of the destroyer, and to train in those of piety, industry,
+and useful occupation, the objects of their care. The success,
+though not in every instance unfailing, has been considerable. A
+few, there is reason to hope, are where sin and sorrow cannot
+enter. Others, as useful domestics, or conductors of their own
+households, testify to the truth of the fact.
+
+"Three of the elder girls have been sent into creditable
+situations, with a prospect of comfort to themselves and
+usefulness to their employers. Four more have been admitted to
+fill their places. Seventeen are now in the house. The committee
+would not arrogate to themselves any undue merit; but they
+gratefully receive the meed of approbation awarded to them by the
+frequent application they have for the admittance of children,
+and for girls to fill the place of servants."
+
+I have quoted so largely from the reports of the society (1841)
+for two reasons--first, because the committee are, and of course
+ought to be, better acquainted with its proceedings than myself;
+and secondly, because its details are related with a striking
+simplicity of style, which must speak to every breast not devoid
+of the "milk of human kindness," and I am sure no words of mine
+would be able to influence further the minds of those benevolent
+persons who, through the medium of these pages, may become
+acquainted with its existence, and feel wishful of adding a
+trifle to the funds of this invaluable society.
+
+That it is an invaluable charity none can deny, for it strikes to
+the root of all West Indian misery--_illicit love_; and what can
+be more acceptable to "the community at large" than the
+endeavouring to inculcate into the minds of its youthful members
+the doctrines of chastity and diligence in well-doing? The
+twenty-sixth anniversary of this society was held on the 31st
+December, 1841. The children, inmates of the house, are taught
+reading, writing, and arithmetic, and are instructed in all the
+arts of female plain-work,--straw-bonnet sewing and cleaning
+forming one branch of their employment. Their earnings for the
+last year were 107l. 0s. 7-1/2d. currency, out of which, 5l. 13s.
+10-1/2d. had to be deducted for materials to carry on their
+different works. The matron receives a salary of 60l. currency
+per annum, and the children are clothed and boarded, and have
+medical attendance found them; and when death sends forth its
+summons, and any of the inmates fall a prey to its inevitable
+shafts, their last resting-place is provided, and the funeral
+expenses paid.
+
+The next institutions worthy of mention are the town and country
+"Friendly Societies." They are formed upon a similar plan to some
+of the "poor men's clubs" in England, and prove of great
+assistance to the members in times of sickness and trial. The St.
+John's Friendly Society was established in 1829, under the
+auspices of that zealous minister, the Rev. R. Holberton, and was
+intended to promote good feelings among the lower classes, to
+assist them in procuring articles of mourning, aid them in times
+of deep distress, help those incapable of helping themselves, and
+encourage sobriety and industry among them.
+
+After the abolition of slavery, in 1834, many of the negroes
+removing from the estates to which they formerly belonged, and
+other estates not finding medical advice for their labourers, as
+in times of slavery, it was found necessary to enlarge the rules
+of the society; and by increasing the amount subscribed by every
+member, provide them with a doctor when ill, a certain sum per
+week during indisposition, and upon demise twelve dollars for the
+funeral expenses.
+
+The first country Friendly Society was established in 1832; but
+since that period they have rapidly increased. "In 1834," remarks
+Mr. Holberton, "there were eleven societies, with 1602 members;
+in 1835, 4197 members; in 1836, 4560 members." The Moravians and
+Wesleyans have each their Friendly Societies, formed and
+conducted upon a similar plan.
+
+On the first of January, 1842, I visited St. John's church, to
+hear the anniversary sermon preached to the society. The members
+met at the parochial school-room, where they formed into a
+procession, the women first, and the men following behind, and
+marched to the church, headed by the Very Rev. the Archdeacon,
+the Rev. Mr. Holberton, the rector, the Rev. Mr. Piggott, and the
+Rev. Mr. Saulez. The morning service having been performed, and a
+very suitable and excellent sermon preached by the Rev. Mr.
+Piggott, the members again formed into ranks, and marched back to
+the school-room, where the report of the society was read, short
+addresses made, and refreshments handed round, when the whole
+party dispersed. I could not help remarking the smart appearance
+of the members--such rainbow ribbons, and stylish bonnets--such
+parasols and sandals--such blue coats and white trowsers!--as
+made their appearance on that day would surprise any one.
+
+The next society, which by-the-bye ought to have been mentioned
+first, as being the oldest in the island, is the Bible Society,
+organized in 1815. It is comprised of every sect and shade in the
+island, and its interests are managed by an efficient committee.
+After the abolition of slavery in 1834, the parent society sent a
+"munificent grant, by which a choice portion of the Holy
+Scriptures was gratuitously circulated to about one-third of the
+inhabitants of this colony. Nine thousand seven hundred copies of
+the New Testament, bound together with the Book of Psalms, were
+thus placed at the disposal of the committee."
+
+The remaining societies are the "Missionary Associations"
+connected with the Wesleyan mission, established in 1820, and
+intended for the purpose of raising funds for the parent society
+in England. The "Temperance Society," introduced into Antigua in
+the year 1836; the "Juvenile Association," established 1815; the
+"Ladies Clothing Society," (or Dorcas Society,) and two other
+associations belonging to the established church, and known as
+the "Society for the Promotion of Christian Knowledge," and the
+"Branch Association of the Society for the advancing the
+Christian Faith in the British West Indies, &c." The Moravians
+have also a Missionary society, established in 1839.
+
+Having now gone through the charitable institutions, I must
+proceed to mention the "Banks," of which there are two in the
+island--the "Colonial Bank," incorporated by royal charter, 1836;
+and the "West Indian Bank," in 1840. The first of these banks
+issues a very neat note, (from five dollars [1l. sterling] and
+upwards,) bearing a lithographed representation of the royal
+arms, and encircled with a very prettily designed border; but the
+"West Indian" disseminates the most frightful "paper money" I
+ever witnessed. Some of their notes are _red_, and others _blue_;
+who was the designer of the "arms" which grace the head of them I
+know not, but they appear to be in direct opposition to all laws
+of heraldry. The shield (of an oblong figure) is divided into
+_three_ quarterings: 1st, or, an eagle (apparently) sable,
+beaked, rising from the sea; 2nd, gules, a ship full-rigged,
+argent; 3rd, azure, a castle, argent, battled. The supporters are
+two dwarfish cocoa-nut trees, (palm?) apparently springing from
+the same root as their companions, two gigantic pine-apples; the
+whole surmounted by the crown of England. With regard to the
+benefit which the establishment of these banks has rendered the
+country, various opinions have been formed.
+
+After the "Banks," the only remaining institution to be mentioned
+is the "Antigua Library Society," which according to its "rules
+and regulations," is devoted to "the gradual formation of a
+permanent library of general literature, and the establishment,
+in connexion with the library, of a reading-room, to be furnished
+with newspapers, journals, pamphlets, periodicals, and other new
+publications."
+
+Now it is well known that we live in an age of puffing, as well
+as steaming, and it may be imagined by some, that these caterers
+for intellectual sweets have fallen short of their promises. Not
+so, kind readers; take my word for it there are few better
+organized societies of the kind to be met with, or whose
+well-filled shelves bear a richer burden. Books to suit every
+taste (and every _age_ I might say--for our friend "Peter Parley"
+displays there the hidden treasures of the "earth, the sea, and
+skies," to the delight of the youthful reader,) may be found in
+this Library Society. Theological, metaphysical, biographical,
+historical, and lighter works, abound. Poetry is not excluded;
+our own sweet bards, from good old Chaucer, that "father of
+English poetry," down to the soft strains of Mrs. Hemans, or L.
+E. L., rank among its selections.
+
+Of modern works there are no end. There, the irresistible charms
+of that "Wizard of the North," the late Sir Walter Scott, with
+his "Jenny Deans;" his high-minded "Flora McIvor;" his
+unfortunate "Bride of Lammermoor," and all his other "gentle
+dames" and "lordly knights," are displayed before the enraptured
+reader. There Marryat amuses with his _naivete_, and those
+stirring incidents of a sailor's life, he knows so well to
+picture. There, "Boz" carries you perforce from the hut to the
+castle, and makes you weep or laugh in each. There are Bulwer and
+Ainsworth, who draw their gentlemen-ruffians in such a guise as
+to lead one to admire even a housebreaker or highwayman; Cooper,
+who makes us long to lead the life of a backwood's-man; James,
+with his darling peeps at "by-gone days;" the dear Miss Mitford
+and Mary Howitt, whose simple annals and sylvan scenes almost
+bring before us the lovely fields and sweet flowers of England;
+Mrs. Gore, with all her pageantries; Mrs. Trollope, with her
+playful but keen sarcasms; the Countess of Blessington, with her
+elegant diction and pure imagery, as lovely as her own sweet
+form; with many other authors of note, are equally at the command
+of the subscribers to this Antiguan bibliotheca.
+
+This society has been established for many years, but it was not
+incorporated by an act of the legislature until 1839, during the
+government of Sir Wm. Colebrooke. The members are elected by
+ballot, and after subscribing for ten years, they become free of
+the library, retaining all the privileges without being called
+upon for payment.
+
+The library is kept in the upper part of a large house, well
+adapted for the purpose, consisting as it does of two good sized
+apartments, with library tables, covered with respectable green
+cloth, and pamphlets of all sorts and sizes; the sides of the
+room are lined with bookcases. Altogether it is an admirable
+society, and I strenuously advise all inhabitants of Antigua,
+whose ideas are not absolutely tied down to "profit and loss," to
+become members; they cannot spend their spare money more
+agreeably, nor while away their leisure to better purpose.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXII.
+
+
+
+  Early rising and "Jamie Thomson"--Journey to English Harbour--
+  Windmills and Don Quixote--Groups of negroes and their
+  equipages--All Saints' chapel of ease--The "Hamlet"--Village of
+  Liberta--Grace Hill--Patterson's and Prince William--English
+  Harbour market--Streets and dwellings--Commissariat's store and
+  government tank--Dockyard--The superintendent--Stores and
+  storehouses--Engineer's workshop--Blacksmith's shop and blowing
+  machine--Limes and roses--Recollections of England--Lieutenant
+  Peterson and Lord Camelford--His lordship's pranks--The
+  ordnance--Clarence House and Dows Hill--The Ridge and "Shirley
+  heights"--Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkeley--Bats Cave--The
+  Savannah and its tombs--Indian Creek--Return to town.
+
+The church clock proclaimed the hour of five, as a gentle rap
+came at my chamber door. Awakened from a pleasant dream, I
+started from my couch, and heard with something like vexation,
+that it was time to dress, in order to prosecute our intended
+journey to English Harbour.
+
+Beautiful as is the breath of "early morn," still there is
+something very disagreeable in leaving your comfortable bed, and
+it may be, your gorgeous dreams, for the dull realities of life,
+and the necessary, but irksome duties of the toilet. I know I
+shall be cried down by all lovers of Nature for my unsentimental
+remarks. Thomson, enraptured with his subject "of early rising,"
+exclaims with all a poet's fervour--
+
+    Falsely luxurious, will not man awake,
+    And, springing from the bed of sloth, enjoy
+    The cool, the fragrant, and the silent hour,
+    To meditation due and sacred song?
+    For is there aught in sleep can charm the wise?
+    To lie in dead oblivion, losing half
+    The fleeting moments of too short a life--
+    Total extinction of th' enlighten'd soul!
+    Or else to feverish vanity alive,
+    Wilder'd, and tossing through distemper'd dreams,
+    Who would in such a gloomy state remain
+    Longer than nature craves--when every muse
+    And every blooming pleasure wait without,
+    To bless the wildly devious morning walk."
+
+Now, all this sounds very pretty--very romantic indeed; and we
+begin to fancy the poet amid some "bosky dell," or upland lawn,
+his shoes liberally bedewed with those glittering gems, which
+"hang in every cowslip's bell," and his unpowdered locks
+streaming behind him in the morning gale. But stay, gentle
+reader! hast thou not heard that Thomson was himself a very
+sluggard, and loved his warm bed far better than any sylvan scene
+he could so well describe? And in truth, many and many a poet,
+even to "Joanna Bailey," the morning rhymester, has been of the
+same mind. Then, why should I not tell the truth, and own my
+sloth--although at the same time, when once abroad, no one feels
+the nameless "melodies of morn" more than I do.
+
+But to resume my subject: the incidents of a day's journey to
+English Harbour. After partaking of a light breakfast, and
+quaffing of that cup "which cheers, but not inebriates," we
+stepped into the phaeton, and drove through the town, leaving our
+friends in "Scotch-row" busily employed in arranging their
+incongruous goods to the best advantage.
+
+The day was very favourable to our undertaking, for it was fine,
+but overcast. The sun was robbed of his extreme lustre by the
+intervention of various clouds, which passed along the sky in
+many beautiful forms. Some dark as ebon night; others of a
+silverish grey; the eastern ones tinged with gold and purple;
+while some again looked so white and fleecy, that you could fancy
+them so many snow-wreaths spread out upon an ocean of blue. The
+lights and shadows, too, of the far mountains, with all their
+blended tints, were beautiful objects in the landscape; and the
+occasional sight of a herd or two of cattle, standing in their
+usual dreamy posture, completed the picture. We passed several
+windmills (used in grinding the sugar-cane) with their sails
+unfurled, and going round merrily in the breeze; but unlike Don
+Quixote, I took them not for so many giants, nor wished myself a
+knight-errant, that I might rescue the "beautiful and high-born
+damsels" from their clutches.
+
+The road to English Harbour is, however, for the most part dull
+and uninteresting; only here and there a pretty prospect attracts
+the eye. But on this day (Monday[84]) it was rendered more
+cheerful by the groups of negroes, who, of every age and sex,
+were coming into town to purchase their weekly stores. Baskets,
+trays, and boxes--all kinds of vessels, indeed--were placed in
+critical positions upon their heads; but this appeared to cause
+no impediment to their ambling gait, while the chatter and song
+among themselves, and the smile and courtesy as they passed us,
+with the accustomed "How d'ye, massa?" "How d'ye, missis?" shewed
+that they considered their errand as one of pleasure rather than
+of toil. Carts were also put into requisition by the more
+extensive purchasers; some drawn by a ragged Canadian pony,
+similar to the little Sheltie breed; others by a tall
+grim-looking American horse, with its bones sticking out as bare
+as "Rozinante's;" and others again dragged along by a slight-made
+Creole, its mane and tail the colour of flax. Cattle carts were
+also bringing in loads of sugar, drawn by six miserable-looking
+oxen two abreast, their poor necks weighed down by the heavy
+wooden yokes.
+
+In one part of the road we passed All Saints' chapel of ease,
+belonging to the parish of St. John's. It is a very plain
+building, surmounted by a gothic pinnacle, answering the purpose
+of a steeple, with an aperture in the middle, intended, I
+suppose, for the admission of a bell.
+
+After passing a ruined estate, where the long grass grew upon the
+walls of a roofless building, once used as a boiling house, and
+accomplishing a steep descent, and one or two abrupt turnings in
+the road, we came to a cluster of houses, known by the title of
+"the hamlet." Many of these rural dwellings are very neatly built
+of native stone; and their little gardens appear to be well
+stocked with the country produce, such as potatoes, peas, eddoes,
+arrowroot, &c. A short distance from the hamlet is another
+similar collection of dwellings, bearing the name of "the village
+of Liberta," (as a painted board informed us,) and equally
+abundant in its bright green patches of edibles. The emancipation
+of the negroes, and their desire to possess a portion of the soil
+in perpetuity, gave rise to these villages, of which there are
+many in different parts of the island. Here they erect small
+houses, and plant ground provisions. Some of these little
+dwellings are very neatly constructed, being raised a little
+distance from the ground, and the front door graced with a flight
+of steps and a small portico, while the open windows are
+furnished with white curtains.
+
+Adjoining the "village of Liberta," lies the Moravian settlement
+of Grace Hill, snugly ensconced in its leafy fence, and, like
+other settlements of the kind in this island, breathing an air of
+happy tranquillity.
+
+Leaving Grace Hill, and travelling on some distance, we arrived
+at an estate called Patterson's, belonging to the Hon. John
+Athill, and celebrated in Antiguan history, as being the spot
+where the murder of the governor's child was perpetrated,
+(already narrated in the legend of Ding a Ding Nook,) on the
+occasion of the abduction of his lady in 1640. The "great house"
+upon this estate was honoured by a visit from our late lamented
+monarch, William IV., who in 1798 passed a night there.
+
+We here once again came within sight of the sea, which greatly
+added to the attractions of the scene, while on our left hand
+rose Monk's Hill, surmounted by its fortifications, and strewed
+in some parts with ruined Carib's houses. Passing through the
+town of Falmouth, we gained a kind of marsh, dotted over with
+clumps of aquatic shrubs, and here and there opening to the sea,
+and in a few moments entered the village of "English Harbour."
+The market is just at its entrance, and consisted, upon the day
+we visited it, of about ten or twelve persons, squatting on the
+ground, and having before them shallow wooden trays, containing a
+few country vegetables, a miserable-looking chicken or two, a few
+strings of strong-scented fish, a store of sun-burnt bread, and
+other similar luxuries!
+
+The houses are in general of very mean construction, and
+destitute of paint. There are, however, some very pleasant
+residences belonging to the crown, from which beautiful sea-views
+may be obtained; for the village is built along the margin of the
+sea, and in some parts the waves come rippling up to the very
+street, and wet the feet of the passengers. Dogs and ducks were
+enjoying themselves in the water,--the former dashing in and out,
+and rolling in the sand, while the latter, with their eyes almost
+closed, were resting upon their glassy couch, in all the luxury
+of idleness.
+
+Before entering the dockyard, we passed the commissariat stores;
+and on the opposite side of the road, a large tank, capable of
+containing 240 tons of water, built by the legislature for the
+use of the shipping, but from which the inhabitants of the
+village are allowed to draw water, the dockyard being so well
+supplied with those necessary reservoirs. This tank bears many a
+sculptured name; among the rest, that of "Nelson," that
+laurel-crowned hero, who visited Antigua in 1784.[85]
+
+A pair of strong, well-secured gates guard the entrance to the
+dockyard; which being thrown open, we drove in, and alighted at
+the office of the superintendant of the establishment,
+preparatory to inspecting the accommodations of the place.
+
+The dockyard consists of two separate departments. The first,
+since entitled St. Helena, was commenced in 1726, during the
+administration of John Hart, Esq., and at the suggestion of Capt.
+Francis Cooper, commander of H. M. S. "Lynn," and Capt. Arthur
+Del Garno, commander of H. M. S. "South Sea Castle." These
+experienced and clever naval officers saw the advantage of having
+proper wharfs, &c. for careening ships in Antigua, instead of
+being obliged to despatch the vessels appointed to this station,
+to the northern colonies, when any repairs were necessary, as
+they had before been in the practice of doing. The land chosen,
+as being most applicable to the purpose, consisted of two
+portions, of ten acres each, which in 1718 had been granted to
+Joseph Green, and William Greatrix, privates in H.M. troops,
+disbanded in consequence of the cessation of war. These lands
+were, however, forfeited to the crown by the non-settlement of
+them, by the grantees; and they were consequently appropriated to
+the purpose of establishing a dockyard, which is now not to be
+equalled in this part of the globe.
+
+This establishment having proved of such advantage to Antigua,
+and the rest of the Leeward Islands, his majesty, George II.,
+ordered that another wharf, with magazines, stores, and other
+appendages, should be constructed. Accordingly, in 1743, a tract
+of land was purchased from Thomas Bodkin; five acres of which was
+to be appropriated for the site of the new naval buildings; and
+the remainder to be allotted to poor white settlers, at the
+discretion of the commander-in-chief, the council, and assembly
+of Antigua. Such was the origin of the village of English
+Harbour, which, on account of being principally crown property,
+is disfranchised.
+
+The dockyard presents a fine and noble appearance; and under the
+able superintendence of Joseph Hart, Esq., everything seems to be
+conducted in the best possible manner; while the yard itself is
+kept so beautifully clean, that a walk through it affords real
+pleasure. The exertions of Mr. Hart may perhaps be better
+appreciated when it is considered that only six labourers are
+allowed him to perform all necessary duties; and that these men
+are also liable to be called upon by the pilot, at a moment's
+notice, whenever that officer is employed in piloting vessels of
+war in or out of the harbour.
+
+The storehouses upon St. Helena are principally used for storing
+coals, and in consequence, her majesty's steam-vessels frequent
+more that side of the dock. The largest ships of war (that visit
+these seas) can go alongside this wharf when necessary.
+
+On the south of St. Helena lies "Freeman's Bay," where such of H.
+M. vessels as are intended to remain but a short time generally
+anchor; the offing being more readily gained from thence than
+when further in.
+
+The last-erected part of this naval establishment, or "the
+dockyard," as it is more generally called, is separated from St.
+Helena by the blue waters of the dock, and contains various
+buildings, of which I shall first mention the commissioner's
+room, and pay offices, (under one roof,) as that was the first
+place I visited. The commissioner's room is a very pleasant
+apartment, with windows to the east and west, and folding-doors
+to the south opening upon a small stone terrace, with a flight of
+steps leading to the wharf beneath. From this terrace a
+delightful view may be obtained. St. Helena lies exactly
+opposite, its warehouses reflected in the clear, blue sea, which
+flows at your feet; on your left, Clarence House, and the
+adjacent country; while, on your right, the mouth of the harbour,
+guarded with its forts, and the blue ocean, with its snowy
+crested waves, blends with the sky in the distance. In the
+apartment itself are considerable quantities of Psalters and New
+Testaments, designed, I suppose, for the use of the naval seamen;
+but those annoying pests, the cock-roaches, have made sad work
+with the bindings. Leaving this room, we walked into the pay
+offices, divided by blue railings, into the commissioner's
+office, master shipwright's office, master attendant's office,
+and storekeeper's office; as the several white-lettered
+inscriptions informed me. These paying offices are all contained
+in one apartment, measuring about 8 feet by 4 feet. They must not
+be corpulent persons who occupy them, or they will be less at
+their ease than poor "Hudibras" was in the "Wooden Bastile."
+
+Descending another flight of stone steps, we crossed part of the
+yard, and arrived at the naval officers' quarters, a very
+pleasant and handsome building, along which runs a pretty
+verandah, commanding a similar view to that obtained from the
+terrace of the commissioner's room. Underneath these quarters, is
+the principal tank, divided into twelve compartments, and capable
+of containing 1000 tuns of water. From this tank pipes pass
+under-ground, to the edge of the wharf, (a distance of a hundred
+feet,) which being furnished with a cock, the water can be turned
+into the casks at pleasure; or, when in great haste, another pipe
+is fixed from thence into the hold of the ship, which in this
+manner receives its proper allowance of water, at a distance of
+100 feet from shore.
+
+A few paces from the officers' quarters, stands a large building,
+100 feet by 90 feet, used as a copper, steamer's, and lumber
+store; attached to which are four semi-circular tanks, capable of
+holding ten tuns of water each. Passing from this, we came to the
+cordage, sail, canvass, and clothing store, of a similar size;
+and opposite to which, at the distance of about ten feet, is the
+working mast-house, (100 feet square,) and joiners' loft above.
+In this building a party of men were busily employed in making a
+new mast for H. M. schooner, "Fair Rosamond," which, having met
+with an accident, a few days before, had put into Antigua to
+repair. Parallel with this building is another working
+mast-house, and joiners' loft above, of similar dimensions to the
+former, used also for the accommodation of the yard engines.
+
+Peeping into a snug little box, called the porter's lodge, and
+passing the guard house, store for condemned articles, and paint
+store, we entered the boat-house. By this time the sun had gained
+its meridian height, and poured a blaze of light over the whole
+yard, which, reflected from the white, sandy ground, dazzled my
+eyes with its powerful radiance, and oppressed me with its
+excessive heat. As I entered then this building, how delightful
+did its cooling air strike upon me!--how sweet was the breeze
+which passed over my brow, and allayed its throbbing! while the
+gentle plash of the water sounded most musically to the ear. One
+part of the boat-house is floored; the other has a channel cut in
+it to the depth of 18 feet, for the admission of the water. The
+roof is supported by 16 round stone pillars, of 12 feet in
+circumference; and above is a loft, where ships'-sails are kept.
+Leaving the boat-house, we entered the tar and block stores,
+where we found a part of the crew of the "Fair Rosamond" employed
+in making _spun-yarn_, used for the purpose of lashing, &c.
+
+About 20 feet distant, is a building containing painter's cabin
+for grinding paint, and the engineer's office, beneath is a lead
+cellar. We next visited the engineer's workshop, where we were
+agreeably entertained with seeing the cutting and punching
+machine put into motion. I am not engineer enough to describe
+this machine in a technical manner, and must therefore only
+remark that, by means of an oblong wheel, if I may be allowed the
+expression, worked by two men, it is capable of cutting through
+the thickest piece of cold iron, with the same ease and quickness
+a person would cut a scrap of paper, and at the same time,
+punching holes of about the diameter of a shilling through
+another piece of the same metal. We also saw a turning-lathe
+capable of turning any description of iron from three inches to
+28 in diameter. There were also innumerable machines, of other
+forms, and for various purposes, which were put into motion for
+our amusement; and a piece of the iron, which had been cut and
+punched in divers figures, was tendered to me--a memento of an
+engineer's workshop in a West Indian dockyard.
+
+The next place we entered was one more suited to a hyperborean
+climate than an Antiguan noonday--a blacksmith's shop. Here, six
+forges can be worked; and several Cyclops ply their skill amid
+their dingy implements. To these forges, immense bellows "turned
+their iron mouths," and, impelled by swarthy hands, sent forth a
+shower of glittering sparks. We also saw, two patent blowing
+machines, manufactured by "Thomas, late Halley and Co.," which,
+by a peculiar arrangement, propels the blast upwards and
+downwards at the same time. The master blacksmith worked them for
+a few moments, but informed us they had not so much power as the
+first pair of bellows we observed upon our entrance, which, from
+its magnitude, ought to be called the "King of the Bellows." He
+bid us place ourselves before the mouth of this last-mentioned
+pair, and we should be convinced of the truth of his assertions;
+but as I felt no wish to be blown away in a gale of ashes, I
+declined the invitation, humbly subscribing to his superior
+knowledge in such matters. I could not help thinking, that had
+Eolus known the use of these "blowing-machines," what a far more
+powerful wind he might have raised, than (as it is pictured he
+did) by employing the sons of Astraeus to blow so painfully with
+their distended cheeks amid his mighty caverns.
+
+Leaving the blacksmith's shop, we passed the sawpit shed and
+smaller tank, and the shipwright's house, and then turning an
+acute angle, came to a very pleasant residence, occupied by the
+superintendent of the yard, Mr. Hart. Here I met with some of my
+favourite lime-trees, their pearly flowers redolent with perfume.
+Mr. Hart kindly plucked for us some of the golden fruit; and
+afterwards presented, what was dearer to me, from the
+recollections they call up, three beautiful roses.[86] I may be
+laughed at for being so fanciful, but I never see a rose, I never
+inhale its rich fragrance, without wandering in imagination
+through the flowery gardens of my own land. "Oh! England, my own
+dear country! never did one of thy children love thee better than
+I do! In the midst of sickness, in the midst of suffering--when
+the fervour of a tropical sun burns through my very frame, and
+the climate throws its languor around me--my mind still reverts
+to thy verdant fields, I see again thy hawthorn-hedges with all
+their snowy blossoms, thy carpeting of lovely lowly flowers,--I
+breathe thy countless odours,--I hear thy sweet-toned birds, or
+the soft chime of thy village bells, and feel upon 'my very cheek
+thy bland and healthy breeze.'"
+
+But to return to Mr. Hart and his roses. I kept them through the
+hot day, bore them in safety to my home, and they now stand
+before me. But, alas! their beauty is all gone,--their
+discoloured leaves seem to mourn their own dishonour; and only
+that "the scent of the roses hangs round it still," I should
+scarcely know what the vase contains.
+
+After resting in a cool apartment for some time, and taking a
+glass of lemonade which Pomona herself would not have refused,
+the carriage was ordered to the door, and we were in the act of
+stepping in, when it occurred to us that this was a good
+opportunity to visit the spot where Lieut. Peterson received his
+death wound.
+
+I have already mentioned, in the historical part of this work,
+this unfortunate incident, but, with the permission of my
+readers, I must again allude to it. At the time of the
+occurrence, Lord Camelford commanded the "Favourite," sloop of
+war, and Commodore Fahie the ship "Perdrix," Mr. Peterson holding
+the rank of first lieutenant on board the last-named vessel.
+Commodore Fahie had left Antigua a short time before, to take
+temporary command of the fleet, then anchored before St.
+Kitts,[87] and during his absence, Lieutenant Peterson was, of
+course, left in command of the "Perdrix."
+
+It was the custom, in those troubled days of warfare, for boats
+to row backwards and forwards across the harbour during the hours
+of night, the sailors of the different ships in the dock, headed
+by one of their officers, taking it by turns to keep this watch;
+and the sleeper might often be roused from his dreams as the
+deep-toned _all's well_ resounded through the still night air.
+
+Lord Camelford and Lieutenant Peterson were unhappily at
+variance; and, perhaps to mortify his rival, Lord Camelford
+ordered Mr. Peterson to take the watch upon the very evening that
+a gay ball was to be given at Blacks Point to the naval officers.
+Unfortunately Lieutenant Peterson entertained the idea that as he
+was in command of the _ship_ "Perdrix," in the absence of
+Commodore Fahie, he was superior officer to Lord Camelford, who
+only commanded a sloop; and, in consequence of this false
+impression, he positively refused to obey his lordship's orders.
+
+The disastrous evening approached, and the lieutenant retired to
+his quarters above the capstan-house, in order to dress for the
+festive party. Arming himself with a pair of loaded pistols, and
+telling his boat's crew to attend him, Lord Camelford quitted his
+retirement, and stationed himself directly between the capstan
+house and the guard house, (now called the commissioner's house,)
+and there waited the approach of Mr. Peterson, whom he had
+already summoned to attend him.
+
+Upon the unfortunate young officer making his appearance,
+accompanied by some of his friends, his lordship again commanded
+him to take charge of the watch for the evening--the command was
+again refused--when, taking one of the pistols from his bosom,
+Lord Camelford immediately fired, and the ball passing through
+the breast of the brave, but inconsiderate lieutenant, he fell a
+corpse upon the ground, the deadly stream welling from the wound,
+and staining, as it flowed, the gay ball-dress which he wore.
+
+No sooner did the well-aimed weapon do its work, than, drawing
+the other from its resting-place, his lordship turned to the
+second lieutenant of the "Perdrix," and pointing it at him, asked
+if he would obey his orders, or meet the same punishment as Mr.
+Peterson? Life is sweet! The second in command saw his friend
+stretched at his feet with the red blood gurgling around him, and
+fearing the same fate, he obeyed Lord Camelford, and took the
+watch.
+
+Oh, duty! what a stern goddess thou art! or else how much art
+thou belied, for the deed was laid to thy charge. He disobeyed
+his superior officer, and in the midst of health, of buoyant
+feelings, and without, perhaps, time to think of a _hereafter_,
+he was to _die_. I can never more pass those sunken anchors which
+mark the tragic spot, without thinking of the mournful fate of
+this self-deceived mutineer, poor Lieutenant Peterson, or
+fancying I can see him in his death throes, stretched upon that
+sandy ground by the hand of him who had been once his friend.
+
+This circumstance was not the only one that caused Lord
+Camelford's name to be well known in Antigua. Upon another
+occasion he went to Mr. Kitto, then superintendent of the
+naval-yard, and informed him he wanted certain alterations made
+on board the vessel of war he commanded. Mr. Kitto, in the
+mildest terms, acquainted his lordship that he could not oblige
+him, as it would be going beyond his warrant. To this refusal the
+angry officer made no reply, but immediately going on board his
+ship, he summoned his boatswain to his presence, and ordered him
+to provide himself with a cat-of-nine-tails, and hold himself in
+readiness to accompany him ashore.
+
+In the course of a short time, Lord Camelford, the boatswain, and
+his mate, and a few of the crew of the "Favourite," proceeded to
+the dockyard, and a message was despatched to Mr. Kitto, desiring
+his attendance.
+
+Upon the arrival of the superintendent, Lord Camelford again
+demanded to know if he would accede to his wishes, at the same
+time giving a pretty broad hint that, in case of refusal, his
+back should be visited by the "Cat." Mr. Kitto once more
+observed, "It would be going beyond my warrant," when, as he
+uttered these words, at a signal from his lordship, the
+unfortunate superintendent was seized, and twelve dozen lashes
+inflicted with no unsparing hand by the boatswain of the
+"Favourite."
+
+This illegal and brutal conduct was not, however, passed over; a
+complaint was laid against Lord Camelford, and the case was
+investigated at the court house. Upon the day of trial, as may be
+supposed, the court was thronged with spectators; the assault was
+proved, and bail was about to be demanded, when his lordship
+begged permission to retire for a short time. His request was
+complied with; but no sooner had he gained the outer gate of the
+court house, than, seizing a horse which some gentleman visitant
+had fastened to the iron palisading, he mounted, and rode away in
+direction of English Harbour as fast as the animal could be
+urged.
+
+In a moment all was confusion. "The prisoner's escaped!" was the
+universal cry; and as the truth became known within the court
+house, various were the individuals who hurried forth, mounted
+their horses, and joined in the pursuit. The Honourable Edward
+Byam was then president of the island, and with the same high
+spirit of equity which has ever marked that family, and unbiassed
+by the rank of the offender, he immediately threw up one of the
+windows of the court-house, and shouted--"A hundred pounds for
+his recapture--a hundred pounds for his head!"
+
+On kept Lord Camelford, (almost overtaken by one of the
+constables, a very athletic man, of the name of White,) until at
+length the horse he was riding fell down from exhaustion, and
+obliged his lordship to take refuge in an adjoining cane-field.
+Upon the party who were in pursuit gaining the place of his
+retreat, a sudden stand was made. The rabble who had joined the
+party, and some of the horsemen, were stationed around the
+cane-field; while the constables, with a few attendants, and
+several dogs, entered the precincts of the field, and literally
+hunted the offending lord through its tangled mazes, until,
+overcome with fatigue, and unarmed, he was taken by his pursuers.
+
+In the escape, Lord Camelford's hat had fallen off, and he was
+therefore placed upon a horse bareheaded; and in this manner,
+surrounded by the officials, and followed by all the riff-raff of
+"St. John's and its environs," he was brought back, and once more
+placed before the court. Lord Camelford was ordered to find bail
+for his appearance at the sessions. The amount of his
+recognisances was 5000l.; Walter Colquhoun and Walter Riddle,
+Esqs., standing sureties for his forthcoming. Upon his lordship's
+return to English Harbour, he drew bills for the amount, (for
+which his sureties would have been liable by his departure, had
+he not taken this precaution,) and then proceeded on board his
+ship "Favourite," made sail, and quitted the shores of Antigua,
+with no very enviable feelings, it is to be supposed.
+
+The forfeited money was devoted to the purpose of sinking wells,
+(or springs, as they are termed in the West Indian idiom,) for
+the accommodation of the inhabitants of St. John's; and
+accordingly, a party of negroes were employed to prosecute the
+work.
+
+They commenced their labours at the head of the town, opposite to
+where the Scotch kirk is now building; but after digging to a
+great depth, and still finding no appearance of water, they
+became seriously alarmed, and unanimously refused to proceed,
+giving as their excuse, "that dey heard all de cocks crowing in
+de oder world!"
+
+To return to the incidents of our day's journey to English
+Harbour. After leaving the scene of Lieutenant Peterson's death,
+we once more walked round by the superintendant's residence,
+admiring as we went the neat manner in which the ponderous
+anchors and various-sized buoys were arranged; and then bidding
+the dockyard farewell, proceeded on our way to the Ridge, which,
+as its name implies, is the upper ground of a gentle ascent,
+appropriated to the erection of barracks, and other military
+establishments, for the accommodation of her majesty's troops.
+Before I proceed to describe the rest of the Antigua "_lions_," I
+must be allowed to remark, that, although in my life I have
+visited many public buildings in England, as well as in other
+parts of the globe, I never met with more politeness, from the
+lowest to the highest of the officials, than I experienced at
+this English Harbour naval establishment.
+
+A few paces from the dockyard, on the road to the Ridge, we
+passed the ordnance, consisting of two separate departments,
+divided from each other by an arm of the sea--one used as a
+store-place for guns and balls, the other for the reception of
+powder. These deadly weapons were so neatly arranged, the
+different sizes forming different tiers, and the balls were so
+prettily packed in the form of pyramids--the day was so fine, the
+sea so blue, and the buildings themselves so spruce, in their
+uniform of light yellow picked out with black, that I was quite
+enraptured with the picture--forgot the _use_ they were intended
+for, nor thought how many heart-broken wives and desolate orphans
+had wept, with tears like blood, the carnage such instruments had
+effected.
+
+The road wound up the ascent, which is continued until the Ridge
+is gained. On one side stands a very pretty residence, known as
+"Clarence House," belonging to the queen, and one of the
+dwellings the superintendent of the naval yard has under his
+control; and on the other side of the road rises "Dow's Hill,"
+surmounted by the country-seat of the governor. In this part of
+the road, a stone, marked with an anchor, points out the boundary
+of the naval ground; and on the other side of the stone, the land
+appropriated to the military commences.
+
+Still following the ascent, in process of time we gained the
+engineers' quarters, the first building which marks the Ridge;
+and opposite to it is the victualling office. Passing by the
+officers' quarters, the barracks for the privates, the several
+storehouses, and the iron hospital, for the reception of invalid
+soldiers, we stood upon the utmost verge of the place bearing the
+title of _Shirley_ Heights, so named after one of the former
+governors, Sir Thomas Shirley, Bart. A very beautiful view may be
+obtained from this spot, well worthy of a painter's study. Hills
+and dales clothed in tropical luxuriance; rocky precipices and
+lonely glens, where nature sits enthroned; steep mountains and
+ample solitudes, that look as if the foot of man never disturbed
+their primeval silence; and gentle slopes, dotted here and there
+with neat-looking dwellings. Below, on your right, lies the
+dockyard, with its uniform buildings, and the lovely harbour,
+forming a complete basin, encircled with its white sands; while
+beyond, the ocean presents one level sheet of burnished gold,
+over which the fishing-boats were gaily bounding, and throwing
+the shadow of their simple sails and slender masts far before
+them. The mouth of English Harbour, which is 113 fathoms across,
+was formerly defended in times of warfare by an immense iron
+chain. That, however, is now no more; but the staples by which it
+was secured still remain in the massive rocks, to prove the truth
+of this assertion. It is now protected by two forts placed on
+each side of the opening: Fort Charlotte, mounted with four guns,
+18 and 24 pounders; Fort Berkley, mounting twenty-four guns. At
+the latter fort is a magazine.
+
+After leaving the Ridge, we turned down a slight declivity, by
+the victualling offices, on our way to Bat's Cave, and the
+Savannah. Our road lay through groves of loblolly, manchineel,
+and acacia, which, twining their long arms together, formed
+various natural colonnades; while the ground was strewed with
+their matted leaves, in all stages of decay. Having alighted, we
+walked through the interwoven path, carefully avoiding as we went
+the different varieties of cactus, which spring up on all sides,
+and guarding our faces from the long sharp thorns of the acacia,
+and the boughs of the poisonous manchineel. The ground, rugged
+and broken, was plentifully sprinkled with disrupted portions of
+spar, which glittered in the sunbeams like so many gems, and put
+me in mind of Sinbad's walk in the "Valley of Diamonds." Immense
+ground-lizards were trailing their long bodies about, in search
+of their daily food, so amply provided for them by the great
+Benefactor of all; while others were basking upon these dazzling
+fossils, to imbibe the heat of the meridian sun.
+
+After taking many devious routes among the impending bushes, in
+order to discover the wished-for cavern, I was well pleased to
+hear the cheerful voice of our pioneer shouting forth "Come this
+way; I've found the right path." Scrambling, as best we could,
+over a huge bed of prickly pear, (one of the cactus family,) we
+gained an opening in the copse, and stood before the mouth of the
+cave. Two large trees, which grew on each side, extended their
+gnarled roots (from which the earth had been washed) across the
+opening, forming natural steps, by which we descended, and stood
+within the cave.
+
+Huge masses of the rock which forms the cavern have fallen in,
+and in great measure blocked it up, so that it now only presents
+an arena of about 50 feet in circumference, although in time past
+it was of considerable extent. From the main cavern, two passages
+branch off in opposite directions. They are perfectly dark, the
+only means of exploring them being by the use of flambeaux; but
+to what length they extend has never been discovered. Mr. McLane,
+a late resident of English Harbour, (now of Canada,) has made
+several attempts to that purpose, all of which proved fruitless;
+the greatest distance he ever proceeded was to the extent of two
+sea-lines, about 120 yards. The only known occupants are bats,
+which breed there in immense numbers, and often attain the size
+of a common pigeon. A dank unhealthy vapour is emitted from these
+openings, proceeding, no doubt, from the carbonic acid gas they
+contain. This vapour soon extinguishes the light of a torch,
+which is one reason this cavern has never been further
+explored.[88] A streak of dark green runs down one side of the
+cave, which was pointed out to me as indicating the existence of
+copper; but upon examining a portion of the rock I brought away
+with me, I found that the colour was occasioned only by a
+vegetable substance adhering to the stones.
+
+In former times, Bat's Cave was a great place of concealment for
+the tribes of erratic Caribs, when visiting Antigua on their
+predatory excursions; and tradition still points it out as the
+scene of a barbarous carousal among that wild and savage race, in
+one of their attacks upon this island. As, however, I am now
+giving the narration of a day's journey, I will proceed to
+mention the other spots we visited, and leave the Legend, which
+is rather lengthy, for the next chapter.
+
+Emerging from "Bat's Cave," and wending our way amid the same
+rugged impediments, in process of time we reached our vehicle,
+and stepping into it, proceeded to visit the ruins of the old
+government house in the Savannah, the scene of the attack
+narrated in the "Legend of Ding a Ding Nook," and of a similar
+attempt in 1654. After driving for a short distance over pasture
+land, exhibiting a dreary view of brown and withered herbage, the
+effects of the late dry weather, (rendered more striking by the
+contrast of the deep green of the different trees,) which
+crackled under the horses' feet, we arrived at another tangled
+maze of shrub and brushwood, where it was again necessary to
+proceed on foot, in order to prosecute our intended search.
+Forcing our way through this almost impenetrable thicket,
+rendered in some places more impervious by the twinings and
+intertwinings of the withe, (a native parasite,) stooping to
+avoid some straggling branch, or springing over a thorny bank, we
+gained an open glade; and walking up the gentle acclivity, stood
+by the side of the ruins.
+
+They consist of what appears to have been a cistern, probably the
+first built in the island, and a low wall of stone, marking the
+foundation of the government house. Within this last-mentioned
+ruin stand two tombs, the inscriptions upon which are as
+follows:--
+
+                            Antigua.
+         Here lieth the body of Mrs. Elizabeth Warner,
+                  Late wife of Edward Warner,
+                      Of this island, Esq.
+              She was a woman of exemplary piety;
+                   She was the best of wives,
+                   The tenderest of mothers,
+                  The faithfulest of friends,
+      And of a most charitable, compassionate disposition,
+       Whose death was generally and deservedly lamented
+               By the good people that knew her.
+        She departed this life the thirteenth of August,
+                             1723,
+                  In the 37th year of her age.
+
+                     Here lies the body of
+                       Mr. Henry Warner,
+            Who died on the 17th day of Sept, 1731,
+                  In the 39th year of his age,
+                   Much beloved and lamented
+                     By all that knew him.
+                     In memory of whom, his
+               Affectionate brothers, Edward and
+                         Ashton Warner,
+                     Erected this Monument.
+
+About these tombs grew many a sweet and fragile flower, and many
+a gaily painted butterfly hovered around, and sported in the
+blaze of the "great luminary;" while the "Turk's caps" (another
+species of cactus) shewed their crimson crests in all directions.
+A broken bottle, the relic of some former maroon (_fete
+champetre_) lay upon one of the tombs--not more fragile or fickle
+in its nature than the mouldering dust which slept beneath, or
+those who in the heyday of life stood looking on.
+
+Leaving the tombs and ruins to their usual solitude, we retraced
+our steps; but in doing so, I could not help thinking that the
+name "_Savannah_" was misapplied, or Dr. Johnson was wrong in his
+etymology, for I am sure there is wood in abundance of one kind
+or the other. A great number of wild cattle inhabit this part of
+the country, deriving, it is said, a plentiful supply of
+nutriment from the herbage found there.
+
+On our return to English Harbour, along the same road, we had a
+glimpse of "Indian Creek," so famous in "story," which meanders
+through verdantly-decked shores in a picturesque manner. It
+derives its name from an engagement which took place upon its
+banks, between a party of Caribs, (or Indians,) narrated in the
+following "Legend."
+
+Once more entering the village of English Harbour, we proceeded
+to the house of W. C. Brooks, Esq., where we rested for some
+time, experiencing those nameless acts of hospitality for which
+the Antiguans are noted; and where I willingly laved my burning
+temples with the fragrant "Eau de Cologne." Really, this marching
+and counter-marching, beneath a tropical sun, is no slight
+matter, let my readers think as they may. "Sol" visits the face
+with many a fiery mark, and if he _kisses_, he leaves his _sting_
+behind. I felt glad when we once more took our way to town; and
+although no lovely moon was abroad,
+
+   "----the floor of Heaven
+    Was thick inlaid with patines of bright gold,"
+
+which sufficed to light us gloriously on our way, and bring us in
+safety to Spring Gardens.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[84] It may be necessary to remark, for the benefit of my English
+readers, that although Saturday is the principal _market-day_,
+Monday is more generally used by the labouring class for coming
+into the capital to provide their weekly supplies. So much is
+this the case, that where you may see fifty labourers employed
+upon a plantation upon the other days of the week, on Monday you
+will scarcely find twenty.
+
+[85] As it may amuse the reader, we here transcribe an original
+letter, written by our great naval hero at this period, which is
+carefully preserved by its proprietor as an invaluable relic:--
+
+                               "English Harbour, Aug. 3rd, 1784.
+
+"As the captains of the navy at this port mean to establish a
+mess for the hurricane months, by their desire I write to beg
+that you will send us round, by the first opportunity, the
+undermentioned articles--viz., one hogshead of port, one of the
+best white wine that you have, twelve dozen of porter in bottles,
+fifty pounds loaf sugar, one firkin of good butter, two baskets
+of salt, two pounds black pepper.
+
+         "I have the honour to be, your humble servant,
+
+                                                "Horatio Nelson.
+
+"P.S. As we only wait for these things to begin our mess, the
+sooner they arrive the better. Mr. Druce, the agent victualler is
+a going to send provisions round for the Fury which will be a
+good opportunity.
+
+"Addressed to ------ Kerr, Esq."
+
+[86] It may be necessary to remark, that roses are very choice
+flowers in Antigua, the climate not appearing to agree with them.
+This is strange, as in the East Indies, where the heat is even
+greater, whole fields are planted with this beautiful shrub, in
+order to get their leaves to distil the far-fame "Attar."
+
+[87] Of which island he was a native.
+
+[88] It is supposed that these passages extend to the sea-shore,
+a distance of about a quarter of a mile.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+
+
+                 ZULMIERA, THE HALF-CARIB GIRL.
+
+                   A Legend of the Savannah.
+
+The sun was rapidly sinking in the west, but its declining beams
+only threw upon every object a richer tone of colour, as a party,
+consisting of three persons, emerged from a small shrubbery, and
+halted upon the brow of a shelving hill.
+
+The foremost of the party was a man who probably verged upon the
+mellow age of fifty; but his eagle-eye, and stalwart frame, told
+that his years sat light upon him. He was what would have been
+termed a handsome man; but a supercilious curl of his upper lip,
+and an expression of scornful indifference, which, though
+apparently suppressed, lingered in his dark hazel eye, added to a
+brow furrowed by deep lines, and compressed by slumbering
+passions, which only waited the spur of the moment to be called
+into action, detracted from the otherwise agreeable character of
+his features, and effectually forbid any approach to familiarity.
+A deep and unsightly scar, the effects of a sabre-cut, which,
+commencing from the right ear, traversed the jaw, injured yet
+further his good looks. He was habited in a complete suit of
+black velvet, of the richest texture; the sombreness of which was
+in some measure relieved by diamond clasps, and small
+knee-buckles of the same costly stones. A small collar of the
+finest lawn made its appearance above the doublet; and a
+black-sheathed "Andrea Ferrara," with basket hilt, dangling from
+his side, and calf-skin boots, completed his costume. This dress,
+fitting tight to his shape, shewed to advantage the large but
+perfect symmetry of his person; while the dark brown hair,
+sprinkled here and there with the grey badge of declining years,
+cropt close around his temples; and the steeple-crowned hat
+peculiar to his sect and times, bespoke him, what he was, the
+friend of Cromwell--the roundhead governor of Antigua.
+
+The next person that gained the open ground was Bridget, the
+beautiful daughter of the governor. If ever there was a
+personification of extreme loveliness, it was known in Bridget.
+Scarcely seventeen, her slight but rounded figure, and her sweet,
+mild face, while it struck the beholder with admiration, and
+riveted his attention, gave the idea of some embodied sylph. Her
+complexion was of that ethereal tint of which the poet says--
+
+   "Oh, call it fair, not pale."
+
+The lily could scarcely outvie it in purity of colour, although
+every emanation of her guileless heart called up the latent
+rose-tint into her delicate cheek; while the small, pouting lip,
+with all the rich glow of the coral, forbid effectually the
+supposition of ill health. A slightly aquiline nose, a
+classically-formed and dimpled chin, with a fair and open
+forehead, in which every azure vein could be traced, were the
+prominent features; blended with that mingled sweetness, that
+feminine grace, and that inexpressible _something_, which really
+and actually constitutes beauty. But her eyes--those soft, lovely
+eyes--look at them, as she raises the long lashes, and you can
+fancy, that were her features devoid of any pretensions to
+comeliness, those liquid orbs would richly compensate for all. Of
+the clearest hazel, every glance that fell from them spoke the
+inmost feelings of her soul; and whether they beamed forth in
+pity, or flashed with animation, they equally bespoke the
+benevolence of her nature.
+
+Puritan as her father was, he did not deny his daughter, any more
+than himself, the use of a few ornaments; and a bandeau of pearls
+fastened around her graceful head vainly endeavoured to restrain
+the abundant tresses of her soft, glossy, brown hair, which,
+breaking loose, floated upon her shoulders in natural ringlets.
+Her dress of dove-coloured satin flowed in rich and ample folds
+to her feet, from whence the little slipper peeped forth; and,
+gathered around her slender waist by a girdle of pearls, shewed
+the admirable proportions of her figure. The stiff puritan ruff
+of lawn, in which every plait could be counted, screened her
+neck; but around her small white throat was fastened a carcanet
+of her favourite gems, not purer in tint than her own fair skin.
+A wimple of the same colour as her dress, and lined with pale
+rose tiffany, was tied under her little rounded chin, but which,
+in the joyousness of her nature, she had unfastened, that she
+might more fully enjoy the beauties of the evening.
+
+The remaining individual that formed the trio was in every
+respect far different from those already described; yet, as she
+stood a few paces behind Bridget--to mark the difference in their
+rank, although near enough to join in the conversation--her lofty
+and commanding figure called equally for attention and
+admiration. The clear olive tinge of her complexion, the large
+black eye, which sparkled with dazzling light, and the long
+coal-black hair, braided and twined round and round her head,
+told that she was not of the same country, or the same people as
+her mistress. Servant--slave as she was--she looked born to
+command; and daring must that person be who would encounter for
+the second time the flash of her offended eye. Formed in a larger
+mould than Bridget, her figure still bore the utmost symmetrical
+proportions; and the rounded arm and taper fingers might have
+served as a model for the Goddess of Beauty: this female was
+Zulmiera--the half-Carib girl.
+
+The mother of Zulmiera was a very beautiful Carib woman, who, in
+that disgraceful partition of them among the English, (after the
+massacre of their male friends at St. Kitts during Sir Thomas
+Warner's government of that island,) fell to the share of a young
+Englishman, a follower of Sir Thomas Warner's son, in his after
+colonization of Antigua. Xamba accompanied her master to his new
+residence, and there bore him a daughter; but dying soon after,
+the infant was brought up in the governor's family. After the
+reduction of Antigua by Sir George Ayscue, and the establishment
+of a republican governor, in place of the opposer of Cromwell's
+power, Zulmiera, who was rapidly attaining the full burst of
+womanhood, was, at the earnest entreaties of Bridget Everard, who
+was charmed with the untutored graces of the beautiful Indian
+maiden, promoted to the office of her companion. It must be
+allowed, that this appointment met not with the full approval of
+the governor. Violently attached to Cromwell, and bearing bitter
+hatred to the royalist party, and all malignants, he thought the
+girl had been too long nurtured in their principles to make a
+faithful attendant to the daughter of a republican. But Bridget
+was his only child,--a motherless girl; and stern and unbending
+as he was to others, his iron mood gave way before her playful
+caresses.
+
+Still there was another and deep cause of dislike he had against
+Zulmiera. Upon further acquaintance with this Indian girl, he
+found her too haughty for his own arrogant spirit to deal with.
+Too high-minded and forgetful of her real rank as a servant, and
+apparently under the impression that, while attending upon her
+mistress, she was in fact her equal, if not her superior.
+
+Zulmiera was, in truth, fully alive to this sentiment. She looked
+upon herself as the descendant (on her mother's side) of a long
+line of chiefs--of those who had once been rulers in the land,
+and who had received from their swarthy subjects the homage that
+monarchs of a more civilized nation were wont to receive.
+
+Thinking thus of Zulmiera, no wonder that the governor distrusted
+her. Nor was the girl ignorant of his opinion of her; and
+consequently their feelings of dislike were mutual. She knew he
+hated her; and he felt that in her heart she despised him. Still,
+she loved Bridget--for who could not love that mild, fair girl?--
+loved her with an intensity of fervour, unknown to the
+inhabitants of colder climes--and would have shed for her her
+heart's best blood; for love and hatred were to Zulmiera
+all-absorbing passions. Yet there was another who held the
+_first_ place in Zulmiera's heart,--one that was to the
+half-instructed, half-Indian girl--her "idol god."
+
+But to return to the movements of the trio. Having left the
+concealment of the shrubbery, the whole party paused, and with
+different feelings gazed upon the landscape stretched before
+them. The slight declivity upon the brow of which they were
+standing, had been cleared, and was now planted with tobacco,
+whose broad green leaves, and delicate trumpet flowers, attracted
+the attention of numerous gorgeous insects. This plantation
+stretched to the end of a wild copse, where every native shrub
+and brushwood grew together with the loftier trees, and formed an
+almost impervious thicket. Beyond this copse, the waters of a
+beautiful creek, which ran a short way inland, glittered like
+gold in the beams of the setting sun; while on every side rose
+undulating hills, begirt with many an infant plantation,
+belonging to some of the earlier settlers. Further off, the broad
+ocean stretched its interminable waves, its billows sleeping in
+calmness; except in one part, where a long ridge of shelving
+rocks fretted them into motion, and caused them to send forth
+their angry roar.[89]
+
+At the bottom of the hill upon which they were standing ran a
+bridle-path, which, winding in and out, branched off in two
+directions; one passing through the populous town of Falmouth,
+the other extending to the shores of a beautiful harbour,[90]
+where some industrious settlers were cultivating the adjoining
+country. Along this path a single horseman was seen slowly
+advancing, in the direction of the harbour. As he gained the
+skirts of the hill, he reined up for a moment his prancing steed,
+and, looking towards the party, raised his plumed hat and bent
+forward in graceful obeisance. The dark eyes of Zulmiera sparkled
+with delight, and standing, as she did, behind the governor and
+his daughter, unseen by them, she raised her hand and waved a
+return, while, at the same instant, the rosiest blush sprang to
+the cheeks of Bridget, and crimsoned her very throat. The
+horseman again bent his head, and then, replacing his hat, shook
+the broidered reins and galloped off in the direction he had
+chosen for his equestrian amusement.
+
+Following with his eye the plumed stranger until he was lost in
+the intervening copse, the governor turned to his daughter, and
+fixing a steady, penetrating glance upon her, exclaimed, "Ha!
+then the young malignant's designs appear to be more open than
+they were. But, mark me, daughter Bridget," and his eye became
+sterner and darker as the pupil dilated with his awakening
+passion, and his haughty lip curled with increased scorn--"mark
+me, Bridget, sooner than I'd see thee mated with one of his
+malignant race, mine own hand should stretch thee at my feet a
+breathless corpse!--yea, as Jephtha slew his daughter, so would I
+slay thee!" The agitated and frightened girl threw herself upon
+her father's breast, and, amid tears and sobs, stammered out--
+"Father--dearest father! think not so. Raphe de Merefield is
+naught to me; he never spoke to me but with the most studied
+politeness, and, indeed, he shuns rather than seeks my presence."
+--"'Tis well, then, maiden--my suspicions are unfounded; the wolf
+has not entered the sheepfold to steal the tender lamb; but I
+have observed him lately wandering about these grounds, and I
+feared my daughter was the object. But listen!" and again his eye
+flashed, his lip trembled--"verily, I know that young man well--
+ay, better than he knows me--for his father was my neighbour and
+my deadliest foe!--and what was more, the foe of Cromwell! He it
+was that assisted that tyrannical man, Charles Stuart, in his
+escape from Hampton Court, and after aided him in his long
+struggles to maintain possession of a crown which had long been
+doomed to destruction. He it was that beggared his brother to
+obtain money to carry out that well-slain tyrant's nefarious
+designs! And he it was that, at the battle of Naseby, gave me
+this ugly sign of recognition," pointing to the scar which
+disfigured his cheek. "But was he not discomfited? Yea, as the
+dry leaf he fell. Lo! as David girded up his strength in the day
+of battle, so girded I up mine; and as he smote his enemies with
+the edge of the sword, so my trusty weapon stretched the haughty
+Philistine upon the ground, never to rise again! Guess, then, if
+thou canst, how much I love yon cavalier, who hath sucked in with
+his very milk the taint of papistry--for did not that Babylonish
+woman whom men call the Queen of England rear him up from his
+cradle? yea, and taught him all her sorceries. Had my honoured
+friend and master, the protector, followed my advice, this young
+traitor to the commonwealth would never have escaped from England
+to disseminate his malignant poison abroad. Cromwell should have
+crushed the egg before it was hatched. But verily I wax hot and
+am impatient, not considering the time approacheth when rebels
+and arch-rebels shall melt away as the hoar frost melteth before
+the sun. Despatches have reached me that it is Cromwell's
+intention to send, in the course of a few months, a squadron
+against St. Domingo, and my instructions are to see that a proper
+troop be raised in this island to join the expedition. I am
+resolved that Master Raphe de Merefield be one of the gallants
+who shall serve in that affair; a goodly bullet-shot or, albeit,
+a well-applied stroke from the rapier of a Spaniard, may relieve
+me from his machinations; or should he refuse to fight under the
+banner of the commonwealth, verily, I know the malignancy of his
+father cleaves so closely to him, that it will only be
+maintaining Cromwell's interest to have him properly secured, or
+we may see another revolt when we least expect it." Thus saying,
+the governor walked forward a few paces, and shading his eyes
+from the lingering sunbeams, scanned for a few moments the scene
+before him.
+
+What passed in the mind of Bridget during the foregoing
+conversation it is unnecessary to relate, but the emotions called
+up in the heart of the Carib girl while hearing her lover thus
+traduced were violent and various. Hate, scorn, and revenge,
+fired her eye, and sent a torrent of hot blood through her veins,
+which, rushing to her face, turned the clear olive to a fiery
+crimson. Yet so well was she accustomed to master her feelings,
+that before her young mistress was sufficiently recovered to
+commence another dialogue, she stood the same apparently calm
+being, her hands folded across her breast; and only that her eye
+was more dilated, and her cheek still slightly tinged, none could
+tell that aught had moved her.
+
+An exclamation from the governor, who had, for the last few
+minutes, been intently gazing in one direction, arrested his
+daughter's attention, and, gliding to his elbow, she inquired if
+he addressed her. "Look, Bridget," replied her father, in a still
+stern, but not unmusical voice--"look o'er yonder grove--dost
+thou see aught moving?"--"Nothing, dearest father," answered the
+maiden, in her own sweet tones--"nothing but the bland zephyr
+sporting amid the young green leaves, and playing its fairy music
+upon them." "Foolish enthusiast! But haste, girl!--fetch me the
+wondrous instrument the lord-general gave me, and let me give yon
+grove a sharper look--methinks it contains more inmates than we
+wot of. I have heard of wild Indians and their deeds."
+
+Roused by his remarks, Zulmiera started forward, and in an
+agitated voice which she in vain tried to stifle, exclaimed, "Oh,
+no, your excellency, naught is there, save, as the Lady Bridget
+saith, the whispering wind or the fly-birds as they seek their
+leafy bower." "Back, girl!" fiercely retorted the governor--"back
+to thy place; who taught thee to hazard thy remarks? Methinks thy
+cavalier masters might have made thee know thy station better."
+
+Again the blood rushed to the cheek and temples of Zulmiera--
+again the eye flashed fire--but again she mastered her emotions;
+exclaiming, however, as she did so, but in a voice too subdued to
+reach her companion's ear, "Rest till to-morrow's night, proud
+man, then wilt thou learn who governs here!"
+
+At this moment, Bridget placed in her father's hand the lately
+invented telescope,[91] when, raising it to his eye, he narrowly
+observed the whole breadth of the copse; the distant creek and
+the farther ocean; but nothing met his eye--nothing, save the
+wavy green, or the wing of a weary sea-fowl as it sought its
+nest. Slowly dropping the instrument, the governor once more
+gazed with his naked eye in that direction. The sun had set some
+minutes before, and as the last of his golden beams faded in the
+west, he turned upon his heel, and, followed by the females, was
+once more lost in the verdant shrubbery.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[89] Now called the Memora's.
+
+[90] Now called English Harbour.
+
+[91] Telescopes were said to have been invented during the reign
+of James I., although some attribute the invention to Roger
+Bacon, 1292.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+
+
+                  CONTINUATION OF THE LEGEND.
+
+It was a calm, delicious, West Indian night. The moon shone in
+all her glory, bathing lawn and lea, upland and woodland, in her
+silvery light. The waters of the creek we have already noticed
+were rife with beauty; and the waves of the far-off ocean, as
+they dashed in measured cadence on the beach, broke musically
+upon the listener's ear.
+
+A stately figure, enveloped in a dark mantle, glided from behind
+a screen of lime and coffee trees; and gaining the open ground,
+looked cautiously around. As if assured its movements were
+unobserved, the figure darted off at a rapid pace in the
+direction of a magnificent grove; but with steps so light, that
+it would scarcely have crushed the lowliest flower. Upon reaching
+the verge of the grove, it stopped; and placing a finger upon a
+small gittern,[92] carried beneath the ample cloak, struck a
+single note. The crushing of the younger twigs and leaves told
+that the signal was heard; and springing from the covert, a young
+man bounded forward, exclaiming--"Zulmiera! dearest Zulmiera! how
+long thou hast stayed to-night!"
+
+The moon still shone with a clear and fervent light, displaying
+every object in a distinct manner, and shewing the picturesque
+dress of the impassioned stranger to the best advantage. His
+figure was slight but perfectly formed, while his fair skin and
+glowing cheeks bespoke his Saxon origin. His eyes were of the
+clearest blue, and his long auburn locks, parted in the middle of
+his forehead, flowed over his shoulders, in length and profusion
+equalling a woman's. A slight moustache shaded his upper lip,
+which, slightly curved, displayed a set of teeth faultless in
+size and colour. His dress, fashioned in that superb style which
+the followers of Charles loved to indulge in, consisted of a
+doublet of three-piled murrey-colour velvet, pinked and slashed
+with white satin, and ornamented with elaborate embroidery, his
+falling band, or collar, of the richest point lace, and his
+nether garments to match with the doublet, were finished at the
+knees with white satin roses and diamond studs. A small but
+admirably tempered Toledo, the hilt of solid gold, and sparkling
+with diamonds, was strapped to his side by an embroidered belt;
+while a Flemish beaver hat, looped with a diamond button, and
+surrounded by a snowy plume, shaded his somewhat boyish features.
+A dark short cloak, lined with white tafiety, which he had flung
+aside when springing to meet Zulmiera, floated from behind his
+right shoulder, and served to give him still more an air of
+graceful elegance.
+
+"Dearest Zulmiera," said the young stranger, when seated upon the
+trunk of a large tree, which, uprooted by a former hurricane, and
+slightly covered by a little alluvial earth, had shot forth a few
+sickly branches--"dearest Zulmiera, how long I have waited for
+you--how much I have to tell you! I have watched each star as it
+peeped forth from the heavens--heard the shrill pipe of the
+curlew as it flew to its nest--but listened in vain for your
+light footstep; say, dearest, what kept you from the
+trysting-tree?" "I was in attendance upon my mistress until this
+late hour," replied Zulmiera, speaking in an ironical tone, and
+laying a strong emphasis upon the word _mistress_, while a slight
+look of scorn passed over her animated features; "or else doubt
+not I would have met you long before; for where, Raphe, would the
+bird with weary wing seek for rest but by the side of its own
+fond mate? or why should yon white flower," pointing to a
+night-jasmine which was growing in all its wild luxuriance near
+the spot, and loading the air with sweet and powerful perfume--
+"why should yon white flower haste to open its pretty leaves, as
+soon as the day melts away, were it not to seek the fond love of
+those beautiful stars which are twinkling above us? Raphe, you
+are my mate, and your eyes are my stars, in which I read my
+destiny."
+
+To this fond but fanciful rhapsody, Raphe de Merefield made no
+answer, except by pressing the beautiful hand which rested in
+his; and the half-Carib continued: "But it was not to tell you
+this, Raphe, that brought me here so late to-night. Come with
+me." And suffering himself to be led by her, they quitted the
+deep recess in which they had been seated, and walked into the
+open ground already mentioned.
+
+Looking up the ascent above the tops of the trees, which grew in
+vast profusion, forming a complete barrier around, the moon-beams
+fell upon the roof of an irregular but commodious building. This
+was government house, and through an opening in the leafy
+enclosure, the light of a taper was seen brightly shining from a
+small diamond-pane casement, in one of the gable ends of the
+edifice. "In that room," said the romantic girl, directing
+Raphe's attention to it, "sleeps one, who, next to yourself, I
+love most on earth; and scornfully, harshly as her father has
+treated me, she must and shall be saved! Mark me, Raphe, an' thou
+lovest me, guard the Lady Bridget as thou wouldst a sister. Wild
+spirits will be abroad ere the glad sun shall set and rise again,
+or yon pretty stars be peeping at us; and though I think they
+will care for mine as they would me, still, Raphe, I would have
+thee prepared. When all is over--when you and I--but I need say
+no more, except that Bridget shall not then be ashamed to love
+the despised, the scorned Zulmiera," and as she spoke, she threw
+back her graceful head with the air of a Cleopatra, while the
+bright crimson mantled in her cheeks, and increased the lustre of
+her eyes.
+
+"What mean you, Zulmiera?" inquired the young cavalier, as soon
+as he could make himself heard; for her utterance during the
+preceding speech had been so rapid, and her manner so excited,
+that all his former attempts to interrupt her had been useless.
+"What mean you, dearest Zulmiera? Why this flashing eye--this
+agitated mien? Is it because yon king-killing, canting Puritan,
+called you _servant_, that these wild dreams (for I know not what
+else to term them) are floating through your brain? Never heed
+him, dearest; you will soon be my bride, my acknowledged wife;
+and then let me see who dare call you servant, or taunt you with
+your birth! Know that I love one tress of this black hair"--and
+he drew her fondly towards him--"better than all the fair
+ringlets and fairer skins of England's boasted daughters. But
+draw your mantle closer round you, and let us to our former seat,
+where I will relate to you all my plans.--You know," resumed
+Raphe, as they gained their resting-place upon the old tree,
+"that after the unfortunate battle of Naseby, upon which bloody
+field my brave father fell, fighting for his lawful sovereign
+against those long-eared Roundheads, (to which sect our notable
+governor belongs!) my widowed mother, seized with an
+irrepressible panic, fled from England, carrying me, then a
+stripling of about fourteen, along with her. Our first place of
+refuge was Holland, where the queen, whose godson I have the
+honour to be, had sought safety some time before. But my mother,
+disliking the country, and having received letters from her
+husband's brother, my revered uncle, whose namesake I am,
+offering her an asylum in Antigua, she determined to avail
+herself of his kindness. Thus it was I became a resident in this
+island; and during my frequent visits at government house, when
+loyalty ruled there, I met my dearest Zulmiera. You are aware, I
+believe, that my uncle, who was formerly a merchant of the city
+of London, was joined with Sir Thomas Warner in a grant of land
+situated in this island, the grantor of which was the martyr
+Charles. Upon part of that land the brother of young Phillip
+Warner is erecting a new dwelling, and cultivating the
+surrounding country. It will be a fine place when it is finished;
+and Warner deserves it should be, for he made a gallant defence
+in 1651, when old Noll sent Sir George Ayscue to reduce this
+island, because, forsooth, it stood out for its lawful sovereign.
+But to resume my story, which the brave actions of Mr. Warner
+drove from my head. To-day, I confided to my mother our mutual
+engagement ; she has listened to the voice of her only, her
+beloved son, and is prepared to receive you as a daughter.
+To-morrow, I will call upon the governor--although I hate the
+sight of him, from his high-crowned hat down to his ugly looking
+calf-skins--and make my proposals in form. If he consents with a
+good grace, well; if not, I feel assured my dear Zulmiera will
+not fear to leave his house and protection for the home and
+hearth of one who loves her as I do. I still hope that our own
+King Charles (God bless him!) may overcome his enemies, and be
+seated upon the throne of his fathers; then will we visit old
+England, and in my own paternal mansion, I've no doubt I shall
+get my handsome Zulmiera to forget her native island and all her
+wild dreams." So saying, with a look of strong affection and with
+gallant bearing, he raised her hand to his lips.
+
+"Oh, Raphe!" said the agitated girl, as her lover concluded his
+relation, to which she had listened with breathless attention;
+"oh, Raphe! had I known this but even ten days agone, how much
+might I, how much might we all have been spared. But I thought
+your mother would never have consented that the governor's
+servant should mate with her noble son--and my own high spirit,
+goaded on as it has been by the scornful usage I have met, has
+led me to do a deed which may, perhaps, dash the cup of happiness
+from my lips. But, then," she murmured, as if more in communion
+with herself than in reply to her companion, "but then to be a
+queen, and Raphe (they promised that, or I would never have
+consented) to be a king. No, it must be: I have gone too far to
+turn back;" and she raised her head, and looke steadfastly, but
+apparently half-unconsciously at the young man, who, surprised at
+her behaviour and language, was gazing intently upon her. At
+length, slightly shaking her hand to arrest her attention, he
+inquired again the cause of her extreme emotion. Receiving no
+reply from Zulmiera, whose large dark eyes were still fixed upon
+his face, he became seriously alarmed, and, in an anxious tone,
+entreated her to quit directly the night air, and seek that
+repose she appeared to need so much, within the precincts of
+government house. Allowing herself to be led in that direction,
+they in silence gained the shrubbery; when, after asking in vain
+for an explanation, and hearing her again and again express her
+assurance that she was not seriously indisposed, Raphe de
+Merefield bade her good even. As he turned to leave the spot,
+Zulmiera appeared to recover herself, and drawing a long breath,
+exclaimed "To-morrow, dear Raphe, to-morrow thou shalt know all--
+till then, farewell!"
+
+For some moments after the departure of the young cavalier,
+Zulmiera remained standing in the same posture; and then,
+suddenly rousing herself, she gazed once more earnestly around,
+and finding all still, stepped without the bounds of the
+shrubbery, and retracing her steps, once more gained the border
+of the copse. She was about to make use of an arranged signal,
+when a dark figure came bounding over a natural mound, formed by
+wild plants and brushwood, and in another instant stood before
+her.
+
+Near seven feet in height, and of corresponding breadth of
+shoulder, the stranger looked able to compete with a dozen men of
+ordinary growth, while his whole appearance was such as to strike
+terror into the heart of the beholder. Attired in a garment of
+dark red cloth, which only covered his person from his waist to
+his knees, the remainder of his body was painted in a most
+hideous manner. A black leathern belt, passing over his brawny
+shoulders, supported a huge naked broad-sword, doubtless obtained
+in some predatory exploit, whose edge was blunted and hacked by
+many a rough encounter, dangled by his side, or struck harmlessly
+against his naked legs. His face, the features of which were
+naturally good, was disfigured by grotesque colourings, and
+horrible scars; while his long black hair, to which was fastened
+small pieces of copper, brass buttons, and tufts of parrot
+feathers, floated behind him in matted locks, and gave him the
+appearance of a wandering gnome. An old regimental coat, from
+which part of the lace had been cut, and which was another of his
+war spoils, was tied around his neck by the two sleeves, serving
+the purpose of a cloak; and upon his breast reposed--a silent but
+melancholy memento of his habits--a string of human teeth, their
+dead white contrasting vividly with his dark skin. This stranger
+was Cuanaboa, the dreaded Carib chief.
+
+Rendering to Zulmiera his simple obeisance, he commenced the
+conversation by remarking in a barbarous kind of dialect, "the
+Boyez[93] gave the time to meet when the big star," pointing to
+the moon, "rose above the hill, and the lady promised to obey;
+but now it's shining o'er our heads, and the charm may be broken
+--the bow may indeed be bent, and the arrow speed on its way, and
+yet fall to the ground wide of the mark. We meet to-night, 'tis
+true; but the time the Boyez appointed is long past, and now
+perhaps our purpose may fail, and our enemies escape." "Oh, no!
+Cuanaboa, believe not so," replied Zulmiera; "listen not to the
+wild words of the old Boyez; thinkest thou _I_ care for what he
+saith?" "Ay, lady, but thou art fallen from the faith of thy
+fathers--thou hast lived too long with the Christians; but it
+matters not now, let us talk of our plans. Myself and comrades
+have agreed to lead the attack upon yonder house about this time
+to-morrow night, and we look to you to draw from their weapons
+those little round stones which kill so many of us, we know not
+how. Guacanagari has joined me with twice so many men, (holding
+up his hand, and spreading out his fingers,) and as fine a canoe
+as ever was paddled along these seas. He landed with his party
+just as the sun touched the waters; an hour badly chosen by him,
+for too many eyes are then abroad. I hope, though, none saw them
+but their red brothers, for they skulked along by the thickest
+part of the woods; and now their canoe lies high and dry, beneath
+the shelter of yon high banks, while they repose in safety in the
+cave,[94] attended by old Quiba. Now, lady, as, when the white
+men are subdued, and, falling beneath our clubs, or transfixed by
+our arrows, serve us as sacrifices to Mayboya,[95] we are to look
+upon you as our Queen----"
+
+"And Raphe as your _king_" interrupted Zulmiera, in hurried
+accents. "You promised that, or I would never have agreed to what
+I have; and had I known Cuanaboa as much as I do to-night, even
+that scheme of grandeur would not have tempted me to turn
+traitor, to promise, as I have, to open the doors, where I have
+lived so long, to give entrance to the enemy, and to lull their
+fears, while the worse than blood-hounds were upon their steps.
+Oh, Cuanaboa! I might have been so very happy, had I only waited
+in patience for a little time--happier as plain Mistress de
+Merefield, than I shall be, perhaps, as queen of the Caribbees;
+but it is no use repining now; I have given my word, and, right
+or wrong, Zulmiera will stand by it."
+
+The long eyelashes fell over her burning eyes, and the beating of
+her heart sounded audibly, and shook her very frame; but
+recovering herself, she continued--"There is another subject to
+be discussed, Cuanaboa; the daughter of the governor is my
+dearest friend, and therefore she must be preserved unharmed
+throughout the fray, guarded with the most scrupulous care, and I
+look to you to place her in safety. Dost thou comprehend what I
+say?"
+
+"Yes, lady; and I was going to remark, when you interrupted me,
+that as you wish certain of the enemy saved alive, particularly
+the fair youth you mentioned just now, it would be well for you
+to give your orders to Guacanagari; and for that purpose I would
+advise you to visit the cave to-morrow evening, when we intend
+holding a serious assembly and dance, previous to commencing the
+attack. Guacanagari will be rejoiced to meet you, and he will be
+as fond of the maiden and the youth as I am;" and a very sinister
+expression, but unobserved by Zulmiera, passed over the face of
+the Carib chief. "Besides, lady, it is but right that Guacanagari
+should know his queen--never Carib had one before."
+
+"I will attend," replied Zulmiera. "And now, as it is past
+midnight, 'tis time we parted;" so saying, she bowed to the
+Carib, and drawing her mantle around her, walked away with all
+the dignity of a sovereign.
+
+Keeping his dark eye fixed upon her as long as she continued in
+sight, no sooner had the intervening shrubs screened her from his
+view, than, throwing himself upon the ground, the Carib broke
+into a shrill laugh. "And so the haughty beauty thinks that a
+people who have scarcely known control, will bend their shoulders
+to the dominion of a girl and a white-faced boy!--ha! ha! If the
+wild kites chose a king, would it be a colibri?[96] No! Should
+the Caribs follow the custom of the strangers who have come among
+us, and torn away our most fruitful countries, and own a king,
+who should it be but Cuanaboa? for who has slain so many enemies
+and drunk their blood as I have? or who can shew a longer string
+of teeth than I have here?" and he played with the one which
+ornamented his neck. "If Zulmiera will be queen, it must be as my
+wife; and truly she would serve to swell a richer triumph than I
+even expect to have. But as for the youth, his race is almost
+run; before this time to-morrow, I think he will give me but
+little further trouble. 'Tis well I came so soon to-night, and
+thus was witness of the meeting. I wish I could have understood
+what he said; but these pale-faced people speak so vilely, that
+it is hard to know what they mean. However, it matters not, I saw
+enough; and as I intend Zulmiera to be my prize, I will very
+shortly get rid of the youngster; he'll make a capital sacrifice
+to Old Mayboya. White men eat better than red people, it can't be
+denied;" and as he finished his soliloquy, he arose from the
+ground, and springing over the brush-wood, was lost to sight in
+the impending copse.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[92] A kind of small guitar, in use about the 16th and 17th
+centuries.
+
+[93] A priest, or magician, among the Caribs.
+
+[94] Now called Bat's Cave.
+
+[95] Supreme deity among the Caribs.
+
+[96] The Indian name for the humming bird.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER XXV.
+
+
+
+                   CONCLUSION OF THE LEGEND.
+
+The morning after this eventful meeting rose fair and bright.
+Bridget and Zulmiera, seated at an open window, inhaled the sweet
+breeze, while they bent over their embroidery frames; and the
+fair Englishwoman was giving a description of her own far-off
+land, when, gazing in the direction of the before-named copse,
+Zulmiera espied a white feather glancing for a moment above the
+tops of the trees, a well-known signal indicating the presence of
+Raphe de Merefield.
+
+Framing an excuse, she shortly left the apartment; and taking a
+circuitous route to escape observation, in a few moments gained
+the old tree, where, as expected, she found her lover.
+
+"Zulmiera," said the young man, after the first greetings were
+passed, "I have suffered deeply in mind since we parted, on
+account of the strange words you let fall last evening; and I now
+seek your presence to demand, as your affianced husband, their
+signification. Tell me, Zulmiera, thine whole heart, or as Willy
+Shakspeare saith--
+
+   "----If thou dost love me,
+    Shew me thy thought?"
+
+Accosted in this sudden manner, and surprised by his serious
+demeanour, Zulmiera's caution forsook her, and bursting into
+tears, confessed to her lover, as best she could, the following
+facts. Having been treated with great scorn and harshness by the
+governor, and looking upon herself as the descendant of a line of
+chieftains, and consequently entitled to respect, a deep and
+irresistible feeling of revenge sprang up in her breast, and
+absorbed her every thought. Roaming, as she had ever been wont,
+amid the romantic dells and leafy labyrinths of her native
+islands, she came one evening upon a curious cavern; her love of
+novelty led her to inspect it, but in the act of doing so, she
+was driven back in alarm by the sight of a flashing pair of eyes.
+
+Unable to suppress her fears, yet too much overcome by the
+encounter to fly, she leant against the rocky opening of the
+cave; when, rushing from his concealment, a powerful man, whom
+she immediately recognised as a Carib, darted upon her, and
+placing his hand upon her mouth to prevent her screams from being
+heard, was about to bear her away as his captive.
+
+Terrified as she was, she still had the presence of mind to
+declare her origin, and claim his forbearance, on the score of
+their allied blood. To such a plea, a Carib's heart is never
+deaf; the grasp upon the shoulder was relaxed; the armed warrior
+stood quietly by her side; and a conversation in the Carib tongue
+(which Zulmiera had acquired from her mother) was carried on
+between them.
+
+The stranger declared himself to be a Carib chief, named
+Cuanaboa, and with the openness for which that people were noted
+among their friends, acquainted Zulmiera with the cause of his
+appearance in that lone cave. Following the example of his
+fathers, Cuanaboa said he had resolved to make an attack upon
+Antigua, accompanied by a neighbouring chief and their several
+tribes; but in a war-council held by them, it had been arranged
+for him to pay a secret visit to the island, in order to inspect
+it, and endeavour to find out its weakest parts. Accordingly,
+leaving his mountain home in Dominica, he had paddled himself
+over in a slight canoe, and easily discovering the cave, which
+had been well-known to the tribe in their former predatory
+visits, he took up his abode there.
+
+Zulmiera listened eagerly to this communication; and excited as
+she was, thought it a good opportunity for effectually procuring
+her revenge. After arranging for the safety of Raphe de
+Merefield, to whom she had been long engaged, she finally
+promised, that upon an appointed night, she would open the doors
+of government house, and admit the band of Caribs. Ignorant of
+the real force of Antigua, and led away by her own turbulent and
+romantic passions, the Indian girl wrongly supposed that a few
+half-armed Caribs would be able to strike terror into the breasts
+and compete with the well-arranged ranks of the English. In
+consequence of this wild fancy, Zulmiera further proposed, as her
+reward, that when the battle was gained, and the English
+defeated, she should be immediately elected queen, and Raphe king
+of the Caribbees. Many other meetings had taken place between
+herself and the Carib chief; and she concluded her relation, by
+informing Raphe of the arrival of the whole band of Caribs, and
+that the hour of midnight was the time proposed for the intended
+assault upon government house.
+
+The surprise, the consternation of the young man, as she unfolded
+this tale to him, was overpowering, and for some moments he
+remained as if rooted to the ground. At length, striking his hand
+upon his forehead, he exclaimed, in a tone of extreme bitterness
+--"Oh! Zulmiera--Zulmiera! what hast thou done! Surely it is some
+horrible dream; and yet it is too true; thou couldst not have
+distressed me so, an' it had not been. To-night, sayest thou?
+Unhappy girl, thou hast indeed dashed the cup of happiness from
+thy lips! Now I understand thy visible emotion--thy
+half-smothered expressions! But I must away--the lives of
+hundreds, perhaps, hang upon my steps;" and darting from her, he
+left her to the deepest feelings of despair.
+
+Leaning against the tree for the support her own limbs denied
+her, the unfortunate Zulmiera remained with her face buried in
+her hands, until aroused by the sound of footsteps. Hastily
+looking up, Raphe again stood before her. "Dearest Zulmiera,"
+said the pitying young man--"rouse thyself; I cannot leave thee
+thus; all may yet be well. I will immediately to the governor,
+and without implicating you as my author, inform him of the
+inpending attack. Much as I dislike the man, it is my proper plan
+--so now dry your eyes," for the warm tears were again gushing
+down the cheeks of the repentant girl; "return to the house, keep
+yourself quiet, and trust the matter to me." So saying, he
+imprinted a fond kiss upon her brow, and turning away, hastened
+with a quick step in the opposite direction.
+
+Mastering her emotions, Zulmiera returned to her home,
+determined, when the evening fell, to seek the cave, and if
+possible, persuade Cuanaboa of the impracticability of his
+schemes, and by that means, prevent the effusion of blood, which
+a meeting of the Caribs and English was sure to produce.
+
+In the meantime, Raphe sought the presence of the governor, and
+without bringing forward Zulmiera's name, contrived to give him
+the necessary information, and then departed, taking upon himself
+the office of scout. Preparations were immediately made for the
+intended attack--ambuscades arranged, and fire-arms cleaned; and
+with anxiety the party awaited the rising of the moon.
+
+As the day grew to a close, Zulmiera became more and more
+restless, until at length, unable to bear the conflict of her
+feelings, she left the house, and, unperceived by the family,
+sought the promised meeting in the cave. The sun had sunk behind
+the waves, and the stars began to peep forth, as the half-Carib
+gained the entrance of the wood. Carefully threading her way
+through its tangled bushes, and avoiding as she went the numerous
+impediments, she gradually progressed deeper and deeper in its
+thickening gloom. The air was calm, and nothing disturbed the
+almost pristine stillness but the whisperings of the soft breeze,
+or the shrill cry of some of the aquatic fowls who made that
+lonely grove their home. In some parts the foliage was less
+thick, and the beams of the now rising moon forced their way
+through and snorted upon the ground, forming many a fantastic
+shadow. Uprooted and sapless trees lay in various directions,
+around which parasites wound in luxuriant beauty, and hid the
+whitened wood in wreaths of green. In other parts, the larger
+trees and shrubs made way for dense thickets of thorny underwood,
+over which the active girl was obliged to leap.
+
+Onward she sped, stopping only now and then to recover her
+breath, and then darting forward at increased speed, until,
+gaining a little knoll, where pointed crystals strewed the
+ground, and the manchineel showered its poisonous apples,
+beautiful and treacherous as "Dead Sea fruits," a mark in one of
+the trees told her she was near the place of her destination; and
+winding round another thicket, Zulmiera stood before the mouth of
+the cave.
+
+The interior was lighted by a few torches of some resinous wood,
+stuck in the fissures of the rock; and their flickering light
+shone upon the dark countenances and wild costume of the inmates.
+Branches of trees roughly plaited together were placed partly
+before the opening, and served to screen the light of the torches
+from the view of any wandering stranger; while the ground before
+the entrance to the cave had been cleared away, forming a kind of
+rustic amphitheatre.
+
+As soon as the maiden was perceived, Cuanaboa came forward, and
+introduced her to Guacanagari, and a few of their principal
+followers, who only appeared to be waiting for her presence, to
+commence their solemn dance, as was ever the custom of the
+Caribs, before undertaking any warfare.
+
+Darting from the cavern, about twenty of these wild warriors
+arranged themselves in a circle around an old woman, known among
+them by the name of Quiba, who, squatting upon the ground,
+chanted, in a monotonous voice, the burden of a war-song: the men
+moving slowly, and joining in the chorus--"_Avenge the bones of
+your fathers, which lie whitening upon the plain!_" Continuing
+this revolving motion for some time, but gradually increasing in
+celerity, they at length appeared as if worked up to the highest
+pitch of their passions; and releasing each other's hands, and
+twirling round and round with the greatest rapidity, tearing
+their hair, and gnashing their teeth, at length threw themselves
+upon the ground, foaming with rage.
+
+Zulmiera, terrified at their frantic movements and horrid
+contortions, tremblingly leant against the trunk of a tree,
+until, aroused by an exclamation from the old woman, she
+perceived another party of savages, apparently of meaner grade,
+bringing in large calabashes and baskets, huge pieces pf baked
+meats, and bowls of some kind of liquids. Placing them upon the
+ground, they retreated; and old Quiba, quitting her recumbent
+posture, seized upon one of the pieces of meat, and throwing it
+among the prostrate warriors, exclaimed, in a cracked voice--
+"_Eat of the flesh of your enemies, and avenge your fathers'
+bones!_"
+
+As she uttered these words, the men sprang from the ground, and
+rushing upon the viands, devoured them with savage greediness;
+while Cuanaboa, lifting up one of the smaller pieces of meat,
+approached Zulmiera, and, with harshness, requested her to eat
+it. Alarmed at his ferocious manner, but not daring to shew it,
+the trembling girl essayed to obey; and putting a portion of it
+into her mouth, by a strong effort swallowed it. No sooner was
+this effected, than, breaking into a horrid laugh, and with his
+eyes gleaming like the hyaena's, Cuanaboa shouted to the old
+woman, who had just before entered the cave--"Bring forth our
+present for our queen; surely, she deserves it, now she is one of
+us!"
+
+Startled by his evident irony, Zulmiera turned round, at the
+moment that Quiba emerged from a natural passage in the interior
+of the cave, bearing in her hand a small bundle, which, with a
+sardonic grin, she laid at the feet of the observant girl.
+"There, lady; that is our first present," croaked forth the old
+hag. "Ay, lift it up, and search it well; Mayboya will stand your
+friend, and send you many more, I hope." So saying, she hobbled
+up to one of the torches, and taking it from its resting-place,
+held it before the face of Zulmiera.
+
+Impelled by an irresistible desire to know the worst, Zulmiera
+stooped and undid the folds of red cloth wound around their
+proffered gift. After untwining it for some time, the wrapping
+felt damp to the touch; and dreading she knew not what, she
+loosed the last fold, _and a human head rolled upon the ground_.
+
+Uttering a cry of horror, but forced on by her unconquerable
+emotions, she turned the gory object round; and as the torches
+flashed with further glare, her eye fell upon the pallid
+features. The blue eye, glassed by the hand of death, and over
+which the starting eyelids refused to droop--the parted lips,
+parted with the last throe of agony, and shewing the pearly teeth
+--the finely-moulded cheeks, but disfigured by a deep gash--and
+the long auburn hair, dabbled with the blood that still oozed
+from the severed veins, bespoke it Raphe de Merefield's! Her own
+blood congealed around her heart like ice--her pulse quivered and
+stopped--and with one unearthly, prolonged shriek, the
+unfortunate Zulmiera sank senseless upon the ground.
+
+Recovered by the means of some pungent herb applied to her
+nostrils, by the hands of Quiba, she awoke to all her misery. Her
+eyes fell again upon the mutilated head of her lover; while the
+demoniac voice of Cuanaboa whispered in her ear--"The food you
+partook of just now _was part of the body of your minion!_ I met
+him wandering in the copse a time agone; and I thought he would
+make a fine sacrifice to Mayboya." This last horrible information
+completely altered her nature, and changed the fond loving girl
+to the disposition of a fiend. Lifting up the head, and
+imprinting upon the blood-stained lips one long fervent kiss, she
+enveloped it again in the wrappings of red cloth, and carefully
+binding it around her waist, was in the act of quitting the cave,
+when arrested by the powerful grasp of Cuanaboa.
+
+"Not so fast, lady!" exclaimed the Carib chief; "remember your
+oath to Mayboya! We still stand in need of your assistance to
+guide us to the house of yon white chief. Remember that was part
+of your bargain: let us in; and when we have vanquished the
+enemy, we shall still be willing to receive you as our queen;
+that is, if you will agree to take _me_ for your king instead of
+the pale-faced boy, whose body has served to regale us and our
+people." With eyes that flashed fire, Zulmiera was about to
+reply, when suddenly constraining herself, she simply muttered--
+"My oath to Mayboya!--follow me, then!" and with determined
+purpose, left the cavern.
+
+The whole party of Caribs, consisting of about eighty, were by
+this time gathered around the spot, armed with bows and arrows,
+clubs, darts, spears, and all the other rude implements of
+warfare. As the two chiefs made their appearance, they pointed to
+the moon--then rapidly ascending the heavens--and uttering a
+suppressed war-whoop, they commenced their march in the direction
+of government house, preceded by the half-Carib.
+
+Unconscious of pain, Zulmiera darted through the thorniest
+thickets, turned not aside for any impediment; but borne up by
+the hopes of revenge, she outstripped the most active of the
+party. Knowing, as she did, that the inmates of government house
+were prepared for the attack, she felt assured that few, if any,
+of the Caribs would escape; but completely altered in
+disposition, from the effects of the horrible scenes she had gone
+through, she experienced no compunctious feelings for the event.
+Her only wish, her fixed purpose, was to possess herself of a
+dagger--stab Cuanaboa to the heart--_drink his warm blood as it
+gushed forth_--and after bathing the head of her lover with it,
+kill herself upon the spot. To deceive Cuanaboa, she pretended
+that her fear of Mayboya led her to conduct the party, an
+assurance which his own blind zeal for that dreaded deity caused
+him to believe.
+
+In furtherance of her dreadful scheme, she carefully avoided
+those spots where she supposed an ambuscade of English might be
+stationed; fearing lest some other hand should take the life of
+the chief. In this manner she was gradually progressing towards
+the house, thinking it more probable a weapon could be there
+procured, when in passing a clump of trees, one of the governor's
+scouts, who was stationed behind it, and who was unable to bear
+the sight of the Carib chief so near him without endeavouring to
+take his life, sprang from his concealment, and rushing upon
+Cuanaboa, was in the act of stabbing him with a dirk, when, with
+the cry of some infuriated wild animal robbed of its prey,
+Zulmiera was upon him. Wresting the weapon from the astonished
+Englishman, the maddened girl fled after the Caribs, who, abashed
+by this encounter, and the sudden appearance of a troop of
+soldiers, were flying in the greatest confusion, and at their
+utmost speed, in direction of the before-named creek, where they
+had left their canoes.
+
+Many of the Caribs fell wounded by the way, from the fire of
+their pursuers' muskets; but Cuanaboa, closely attended by
+Zulmiera, still kept on, until after passing over the same
+undulating ground, forcing their way through thickets, leaping
+over natural barriers, and creeping through leafy arcades, they
+gained upon the creek. But woe to the Caribs! a party of English,
+in hot pursuit, were, in fact, driving them into a trap, at the
+point of their weapons. Throughout this irregular and hurried
+retreat, Zulmiera had never dropped her dirk, or her gory burden;
+neither had she lost sight of Cuanaboa; while the chief, seeing
+her dash the weapon from his uncovered breast, when one stroke of
+the Englishman's hand would have caused his death, thought she
+had forgiven his horrid barbarity, and was well pleased to see
+her nigh him.
+
+As they emerged from the deeper glades of the wood, a volume of
+smoke rose above the trees; and upon gaining the open ground, the
+whole extent of their danger was revealed to the Caribs. There
+lay their canoes, a burning mass; while the foreground was
+occupied by another band of Englishmen, ready prepared for
+battle. Hemmed in on all sides, the Caribs fought with the fury
+of uncaged beasts, and sold their lives dearly. Many of the
+English were stretched upon the ground, a flattened mass, from
+the blows of their heavy clubs; while others, wounded by their
+poisoned arrows, only lived to endure further torments. Still
+Cuanaboa remained unhurt; and standing upon a gentle knoll,
+brandished his club, and dealt destruction upon the foremost of
+his enemies. His friends were rapidly falling around him; and as
+he turned to seek for refuge, Zulmiera approached him
+unperceived, and with one blow, drove the dirk into his very
+heart.
+
+Without a groan, the Carib chief sank dead upon the earth; and
+Zulmiera, kneeling by him, plucked the weapon from the wound, and
+applying her lips, _drank the warm blood as it gurgled forth!_
+Unbinding the head of the unfortunate Raphe de Merefield from her
+waist, where she had carried it throughout the fray, she gazed
+ardently at it; tenderly parted the still bright hair, imprinted
+a last kiss upon the cold lips, and then taking up in her hand
+some of the vital stream, which was still flowing from the wound
+of Cuanaboa, and forming a pool around him, she bathed the head
+with it, exclaiming as she did so, "Raphe, thou art avenged!
+thine enemy lies dead before thee, slain by my hand; and thy
+bride, faithful in life and death, comes to share thy gory bed."
+
+These actions completed, she looked up. The dying and the dead
+lay stretched around her,--the conquering English were looking to
+their captives,--the last gleam of the fire was shooting upwards
+to the sky,--the moon had gained her zenith,--while, as if in
+contrast to that bloody field, the waters of the creek rolled on
+like molten silver, beneath her lovely beams. For one moment the
+wild but beautiful girl gazed upon the scene; old remembrances
+sprang up in her mind, and brought the tear into her eye. But
+dashing them away, she regained her former implacable mood; and
+as a party of the governor's servants came forward to arrest her,
+placing one hand upon her lover's head, she raised with the other
+the dirk--its bright steel glittered for a moment in the moonbeam
+--in the next it was ensheathed in her heart; and she fell a
+corpse upon that dire chief, to whom she owed all her misery.
+
+The scene of this Antiguan tragedy may still be viewed; the creek
+bears the name of "Indian Creek," while the cavern in which they
+held their barbaric meeting is called "Bat's cave." The governor
+retained his office until 1660, when Charles II. was restored to
+the vacant crown; but refusing to acknowledge his sovereign, he
+was superseded, and the vacant post was filled by Major-General
+Poyntz, a royalist, who continued to act as governor until 1663,
+when Lord Francis Willoughby obtained a grant of the island.
+
+The name of Raphe de Merefield (the uncle of the young cavalier)
+appears with that of Sir Thomas Warner in the original grant
+signed by Charles I. It is still to be seen at "Stoney Hill,"--an
+estate belonging to the late Samuel Warner, president of Antigua,
+and a descendent of the old family. This property was willed by
+him to his god-son, ------ Shand, Esq., of the house of Messrs.
+Shand, Liverpool.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+
+
+  Towns: Falmouth--Church and churchyard--Mangroves and acacias--
+  Black's Point--Bridgetown--Willoughby Bay--Its site and
+  decoration--The superintendent of the Wesleyan schools--
+  School-room--Methodist chapel--The Memoras--St Philip's church
+  --Beautiful views--Parham--Its derivation and site--St Peter's
+  church--Churchyard--The new church--Methodist chapel and
+  school-room.
+
+In the year 1675, six towns were appointed in Antigua as places
+of trade--viz., St. John's, Falmouth, Old Road, (or Carlisle
+Road,) Bridgetown, Willoughby Bay, Bermudian Valley, and Parham.
+
+St. John's, as the _capital_ of the island, has already been
+noticed in a chapter by itself, and it now devolves upon me to
+endeavour to describe, what is almost indescribable, the
+arrangement of the other towns, which, with the exception of
+Bermudian Valley, are still in a state of existence.
+
+To commence with Falmouth. As it lies just before the traveller
+gains English Harbour, the road to it is the same already
+mentioned in our journey to that place; and consequently another
+description would be tiresome and superfluous. I must, however,
+remark that near the entrance of the town a pretty turn in the
+road leaves the blank-looking country, which so generally
+predominates between Falmouth and the capital, and leads you into
+a kind of defile; on one side, bordered by rugged banks thickly
+covered with the yellow acacia, and its sweet-scented blossoms;
+and on the other, by the picturesque ascent of Monk's Hill,
+surmounted by all its frowning battlements.[97]
+
+The town of Falmouth is noted for being the first part of the
+island settled upon by the English, who, under the command of Mr.
+Warner, son of Sir Thomas Warner, emigrated from St.
+Christopher's in 1632, and laid out the surrounding country in
+fields of tobacco, cotton, and ginger, which were for some years
+after the staple commodities of Antigua.
+
+Humble as might have been the architectural ornaments of this
+town in those early days, it seems almost an impossibility to
+suppose them less then than they are at present; for if strangers
+(from some of our bustling maritime cities in Europe, for
+instance) were suddenly and unconsciously landed in the streets
+of Falmouth, they would to all certainty believe them to be so
+many pathways to the "castle of indolence;" and the irregular and
+dismal-looking buildings to be the habitations of some lawless,
+vagrant tribe. A few four-cornered houses, in shape like a
+pigeon-coop, and of dimensions to suit a dweller of _Lilliput_,
+are elevated a short distance from the ground by being placed
+upon empty boxes or barrels, or four pillars of rudely-piled
+stones, which arrangement forms a snug retreat for the pigs or
+poultry of the inmate, or serves as a reservoir for sundry
+discarded pots and pans, or other "household gods." These
+habitations are as variously placed as the taste of their owners
+may chance to dictate. Some present an acute angle, others a
+_broadside_ to the eye of passengers. Some stand in what I
+suppose is intended to represent a garden, whose rank weeds and
+straggling vegetables are guarded from the steps of the unwelcome
+marauder only by a _gate_, made from empty candle-boxes or
+barrel-heads, flanked by a thinly sprinkled row of some dwarf
+shrub, over which the gallant "Xit" (whom Mr. Ainsworth has so
+cleverly called into existence in his admirable "Tower of
+London") could have stepped with the greatest ease; letting alone
+the frequent lapses in the enclosure, through which a bulky man
+might readily pass. To make all secure, however, these rustic
+gates are generally garnished with a huge padlock, which is of
+course _carefully_ locked whenever the owner is absent; while the
+key, with admirable precaution, is tucked into some little
+peep-hole near, that it may be ready for the use of any stray
+visitants.
+
+A few of these dwellings are, however, of superior form and
+fabric; and one stands forth in all the glories of palisading,
+and if I mistake not, bright green verandahs. It looks, by the
+side of its pigmy neighbours, like the Colossus of Rhodes, to the
+mandarin figures in our English grocers' shops.
+
+The present church, dedicated to St. Paul, is a plain,
+uninteresting-looking building, standing at the outskirts of the
+town, and capable of affording about 400 sittings.
+
+The churchyard might be made as picturesque, and looks as quiet,
+as some of those pretty rural burial-places we oftentimes alight
+upon in dear old England's sequestered nooks. Some fine trees,
+and a few handsome monuments, are to be met with; and if the rank
+grass was cleared away a little, and some of the various
+beautiful flowers, which are to be found in all parts of the
+island, planted there, it would present a spot equalling in
+appearance many of our modern cemeteries.
+
+It may by some be thought folly thus to beautify the place of
+death--to garnish that spot where the worm revels upon the once
+animated clay!--to plant the gladsome, gaily-tinted flowers where
+all is mouldering beneath! Be it so--yet would I see the flowers
+blooming over the grave of those I have loved, and while seated
+near, feel that the bitterness of death is past, and that their
+happy disembodied spirits range, free from all sorrows, amid the
+amaranthine bowers of heaven! Like the late talented and
+oft-lamented "L. E. L.," I love to frequent the scene of our last
+resting-place--like her, to--
+
+   "Stand beneath the haunted yew,
+    And watch each quiet tomb;
+    And in the ancient churchyard feel
+    Solemnity, not gloom.
+
+    The place is purified with hope--
+    The hope that is of prayer;
+    And human love, and heavenward thought,
+    And pious faith are there.
+
+    The golden cord which binds us all
+    Is loosed, not rent in twain;
+    And love, and hope, and fear unite,
+    To bring the past again."
+
+The parochial school is held in a small house near the church. It
+is conducted upon the same plan as the other schools of the kind
+in Antigua; the instruction consisting of lessons in reading,
+writing, arithmetic, repetition of catechism and hymns, and
+plain-work for the girls.
+
+St. Paul's has a chapel-of-ease in English Harbour; which was, in
+truth, a private dwelling-house, but now, disencumbered of its
+partitions, serves as a chapel, and is capable, it is said, of
+affording accommodation for 350 persons; during the week, it is
+appropriated to the use of an infant school.
+
+The whole of Falmouth is thickly studded with clumps of acacia,
+privet, and prickly pear; all of which are of the _thorny
+family_, and if report be true, serve the inhabitants instead of
+pins. Between Falmouth and English Harbour lies a marshy thickly
+covered with sand, and dotted about with groups of
+mangrove-trees, in all their glittering, green foliage, forming
+so many _oases_ in the midst of a burning desert. The sea
+overflows this spot at times, and leaves its tribute in the shape
+of small shells and bunches of sea-weed.
+
+Opposite to Falmouth, looking across the waters of the harbour, a
+bold promontory stretches out into the ocean, to which has been
+given the name of "Black's Point." As it belongs to a gentleman
+of that name, it is generally supposed in Antigua, to derive its
+cognomen from that cause. Such supposition is, however,
+incorrect, for it is laid down in an old chart of the island as
+"Black's Point" long before its present possessor came into
+existence. The real origin of its bearing that appellation is
+from the fact of its having been the place where it was customary
+to land the cargoes of newly-imported negroes, prior to the
+abolition of the slave trade; and from this circumstance the name
+it now bears was given to it.
+
+Falmouth Harbour is considered one of the best in Antigua, and is
+capable of affording safe anchorage for ships in those times of
+danger to which the West Indies are exposed. The shores of the
+bay boast their silver fringe of sand, which is often selected by
+the parent turtle, as a place of safety, in which to deposit her
+two or three hundred eggs; and when the sun has performed the
+duties of incubation, which the lethargic mother refuses to
+perform, numbers of these little creatures may be seen, crawling
+towards their favourite element, where they feast and fatten,
+until, perhaps, in after-years, they are doomed to increase the
+table store of some Antiguan _gourmand_, or, perchance, find
+their way to England, and tickle the palate of "the lord mayor,
+and the other city authorities" within the sound of Bow bells.
+
+Old Road (or Carlisle Road, as it was once called) and St. Mary's
+church having been already described, in our "pilgrimage to Tom
+Moore's Spring," it remains for me, in the next place, to mention
+Bridgetown, or Willoughby Bay, as it is more frequently termed.
+Here, again, I have the task of describing, what is almost _a
+nondescript_, for no stranger would ever discover that it was a
+town unless the fact were pointed out to him. If the man who
+painted a lion was obliged to write under it, "This is a lion," I
+am sure the person who huddled the three or four houses together,
+which constitutes Bridgetown, had need to have put upon a
+giant-like placard, "This is a town!" unless, indeed, a rather
+good-looking Methodist chapel, a small mission-house, a stone
+dwelling-house, with school-room attached, and a few of my
+_four-cornered_ friends, stuck in here and there, like the dots
+in a landscape of some country painter, to represent _crows_, be
+sufficient to merit for it that lofty title, which Dr. Johnson,
+or some other lexicographer of equal renown, leads us to suppose
+signifies "a large collection of houses."
+
+As regards the population of this _town_, (I like to give places
+their proper names,) I can give but little information. With the
+exception of the very kind-hearted superintendant of the Wesleyan
+schools, Mr. Charles Thwaites, and his equally amiable wife,
+their very pretty little boy, one or two domestics, and their
+scholars of every shade, the only inhabitants I saw were flocks
+of black-headed gulls, busily employed in following their
+piscatory avocations; a few half-starved looking sheep, vainly
+endeavouring to screen themselves from the fiery beams of the sun
+beneath the leafless branches of some blighted shrubs; and three
+or four long-necked, screaming birds, known in this part of the
+world as gorlings, and which derive their subsistence from the
+same source as their neighbours, the gulls.
+
+After resting for a short time at the superintendant's dwelling,
+we proceeded to the school-room, a most commodious apartment,
+measuring 50ft. by 48ft., and capable of containing 500 persons.
+The whole of this establishment, including the superintendant's
+house, which is detached, was erected by the Church Missionary
+Society; but after being used by them for a short time, it was
+turned over to the "Ladies' Society," to whom it still belongs,
+although the Wesleyan Mission holds its school there.
+
+The school-room was but thinly attended upon the day of our
+visit, there not being more than 40 children--the usual number is
+about 100. Upon our entrance, they all rose up with "We'll make
+our obeisance together, as children ought to do," and then,
+quitting their raised seats, formed into double lines, their
+teacher at their head, and marched round the apartment to the
+tune of one of their infant rhymes. After performing many
+martial-like evolutions, they finally arranged themselves into a
+deep phalanx, and thus sang another of their little songs. Many
+of them are proficients in reading the scriptures, and are well
+versed in the historical parts of them. I hope and trust the
+education so liberally bestowed upon them, and above all, the
+religious instruction which they receive, may benefit their
+after-conduct, and lead them to do their duty in that sphere of
+life in which it has pleased their Creator to place them. I was
+much pleased to learn from Mr. Thwaites that, in almost every
+instance, the pupils who have left the schools under his charge
+have followed agricultural employments. To a country whose grand
+resource, and, indeed, entire dependence, is placed upon the
+cultivation of the sugar-cane, this conduct upon the part of its
+rising generation must be very important; and if the lower
+classes continue to do so, and not, because they are free,
+despise the hoe, Antigua may stand forth as pre-eminently
+flourishing among the other West Indian colonies.
+
+Mr. Thwaites is the paid superintendant of all the Wesleyan
+country schools. His salary is 150l. sterling per annum, a small
+recompence (although quite as liberal as the mission can afford)
+for the constant care his responsible situation calls for, and
+which he performs with untiring zeal. For about twenty-nine years
+has this good man been employed in providing for the mental wants
+of the black population, and in endeavouring to lead their young
+minds to the only fount of real knowledge. Unmindful of passing
+events he has kept on his irksome task, (for irksome it must be
+to drive knowledge into the brains of some of these little
+negroes,) buoyed up by his feelings of deep philanthropy.
+
+The first few years of his employment were passed without
+receiving any reward, but the approval of his own conscience. As,
+however, his laudable exertions became known, he was engaged by
+the "Church Missionary Society," whose interests he faithfully
+served for near ten years. Since that period he has been in the
+employ of the Wesleyan mission. Although from being such a
+valuable auxiliary in rearing "the infant mind," and teaching
+"the young idea how to shoot," the bishop would gladly have
+retained his services, provided he gave up all connexion with the
+Methodists.
+
+Mr. Thwaites has under his charge eleven day-schools, with about
+800 scholars; and three Sunday-schools, with about 900 scholars.
+Besides attending these several schools, Mr. Thwaites visits the
+neighbouring estates in the evenings, for the purpose of giving
+the labourers religious instruction, and guarding his elder
+pupils, or those who have left his schools, for the purpose of
+engaging in the avocations customary to their province in life,
+against those temptations to which their age and sex are most
+subject.
+
+It has been remarked in a late publication, (in commenting upon
+events in Antigua) that "after ransacking the whole freed
+population for a dozen suitable teachers of children, Mr.
+Thwaites could not find even that number who could read well."
+Now, this is a great error, _and altogether contradicted by Mr.
+Thwaites himself_. The blacks certainly had not the means of
+improving themselves in former years, as the more fortunate
+generation have had since emancipation; but that the _whole_
+class were so totally ignorant as not to be able to _read_, is
+entirely incorrect. In proof of this, the superintendant pointed
+out to our notice several teachers who were well adapted for
+their employment; one in particular, who, Mr. T. remarked,
+conducted a school consisting of 120 scholars, which he
+instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic, in which last
+branch of education many of his pupils had attained to "Practice"
+and "Vulgar Fractions."
+
+The salaries of these paid teachers (of which there are
+seventeen, the remainder giving their services without any
+recompence) are very small--not more than from three to four
+dollars (12s. and 16s. sterling) per month. They are paid by the
+"Ladies' Negro Education Society," and other benevolent societies
+in England, who also defray the other expenses of the schools,
+with the exception of the superintendent's salary, which is
+provided by the Wesleyan mission. The children, who receive
+instruction in writing, cyphering, and needlework, pay a small
+pittance, which is placed in the school fund.
+
+There is a very neat and excellent little library attached to the
+Willoughby-Bay school, where the works of "Abbott," "Sherwood,"
+"Pike," and various other pious authors, are open to the use of
+all, besides treatises upon geography, history, and experimental
+philosophy. The lighter works, such as Mrs. Sherwood's pretty,
+and often affecting, little narratives, are read, Mrs. Thwaites
+informed me, with avidity by the negroes, to which intelligence
+their well-thumbed covers gave a tacit assent. Around the
+schoolroom were hung various cards, with texts of scripture
+printed upon them in large characters, that "such who run may
+read"--a practice I greatly admire, for turn whichever way you
+will, some goodly sentence meets your eye.
+
+In the neat little yard attached to Mr. Thwaites' dwelling, we
+met with some old friends of mine--a small wooden hive of "busy
+bees." A pane of glass inserted into the box gave us a view of
+the industrious little creatures building their waxen cells, in
+which to store their fragrant food; but the weather was against
+them--the long drought had withered the flowers, and thus
+curtailed their stock of honey. There are very few bee-hives to
+be met with in Antigua. This is rather strange, as all Creoles
+are noted for having a "sweet tooth," and consequently honey is
+reckoned a luxury. It cannot be from want of proper food, that
+the labours of these little insects are discountenanced, for
+Nature has been most prodigal of her stores to Antigua, and
+clothed her every hill and dale with melliferous blossoms.
+
+I have heard of one gentleman, however, who was very anxious to
+establish an apiary upon his property in Antigua, and accordingly
+he obtained some choice hives, which in due time were safely
+deposited in his well-stocked garden. Soon after their arrival,
+however, business called him from the island, and he committed
+his valued bees to the care of his overseer, a true son of
+Hibernia, with an expressed hope, "that they would not wander
+from home." The day after his departure, the overseer, wishful of
+obliging his employer, stole from his multitudinous duties a
+sufficient time to watch the movements of his buzzing charge. The
+bright sun drew them from their hives, and jocund in their little
+hearts, away they bounded on the balmy zephyr. Innumerable
+flowers dazzled their eyes, and courted their attention. Here the
+gorgeous _hybiscus_ spread out its glowing bosom--there the
+blushing _frangipanne_ loaded the air with its rich fragrance. At
+one moment they inserted their trunks into the sweet-scented cup
+of the jasmine; at the next, and they brushed the pearly dew from
+the brilliant radii of the passion-flower. Onward they flew,
+allured by flowerets of every colour, each one as
+
+   "Fair as the fabulous Asphodels;"
+
+until at length, to the dismay of the overseer, they were lost to
+sight! He was no naturalist: he had never studied "Reaumur" upon
+the "habits of bees," and as the last straggler disappeared, he
+thought "Well! Mr. ------ hoped they would not wander from home,
+but by St. Patrick they're all gone, and if they ever come back
+is a query." However, as nothing could be done, he was obliged to
+leave them to their fate; and in a rather disconsolate mood, "he
+turned and left the spot."
+
+Hours wore away,
+
+   "The evening came, the sun descended,"
+
+and the truant insects returned to their hive, to the great joy
+of the observant overseer. "Ah! ah!" said he, as they alighted,
+heavily laden with their luscious store, "a pretty trick you have
+played me to-day; but by my patron saint, I will take care of you
+to-morrow." He watched until they were all safe housed; and then
+with hurried steps, and self-congratulatory hitches of the
+shoulders, he sought the spot where masons had been lately
+working. Providing himself with some of the soft mortar, he again
+visited the apiary; and with ready will, and determined purpose,
+applied to the opening of each hive a sufficient quantum of the
+cement, so as to effectually forbid the egress of any bee. It is
+almost needless to mention, that upon the return of the
+gentleman, whose absence had been protracted, he found his
+favourite insects defunct; nor need I animadvert upon the
+vexation his overseer's management of an apiary caused him.
+
+To resume my subject--which the bees, and their untimely fate,
+drove from my head: after inspecting the school, and expressing
+our gratification, we proceeded to visit the Methodist chapel, a
+stone's throw from the school-room. It is a plain wooden
+building, measuring 45 feet by 60 feet, and capable of containing
+900 sittings. The burying-ground is attached, and serves as the
+place of interment for the whole town, and some part of the
+adjoining country. Adjacent to the chapel is the mission-house, a
+neat little domicile for such an extraordinary-looking place as
+Bridgetown.
+
+There is nothing interesting about Willoughby Bay. No glittering
+white sand, or clear blue water with its dazzling surf to be
+seen. A line of blighted, sickly-looking bushes shuts out the
+sight of the beach; and the part of the bay which greets our eyes
+looks gloomy and discoloured, as if from lurking reefs and
+shoals. Upon the opposite side of the bay, looking across the
+water, lies the Memoras, a long ridge of rocks, over which the
+sea rushes with tremendous force, and with a deafening noise,
+which may be heard at a considerable distance. Upon a still day,
+the angry moan of the waves can be clearly distinguished at
+Bridgetown. Willoughby Bay derives its name from Francis Lord
+Willoughby, who in 1663 was made Lord Proprietor of the whole
+island, by a grant from Charles II.[98]
+
+St. Philip's, the parish church, is situated upon an ascent, at
+some distance from Bridgetown, and commands one of the finest
+views to be met with in any part of the country. The eye ranges
+with delight over sloping hills and open glades; wood-crowned
+mountains, and silent valleys. Sugar plantations, in all the
+beauty of high cultivation, spread out their fields of rich and
+wavy green beneath our feet, interspersed with groups of simple
+negro huts, almost hid in their leafy enclosures; while on all
+sides, the ocean stretched out its interminable blue waters. It
+was a lovely day when we visited the spot,--
+
+   "The whispering winds were half asleep,
+    The clouds were gone to play,
+    And on the woods, and on the deep,
+    The smiles of heaven lay.
+
+    It seem'd as if the day was one
+    Sent from beyond the skies,
+    Which shed to earth above the sun,
+    A light of paradise."
+
+Of the first church dedicated to St. Philip no account can be
+given; but most probably it was built about the year 1690. The
+second church to that saint was erected about 1717. It was a
+wooden building, and no doubt possessed but little claim to
+architectural beauty. The present church is one of the prettiest
+I have seen in the West Indies. It is built of the smooth
+freestone, so generally found in Antiguan quarries; the only
+fault is, that they are cut too small, which, at a distance,
+gives them more the appearance of white bricks.
+
+The plan, like many of the other Antiguan churches, is cruciform;
+but there is so much chasteness displayed in the simple
+arrangement of the interior, that it must please every eye. The
+large oriel window is furnished with ground-glass, of the most
+elegant, yet simple devices; and the neat pulpit and desk,--the
+altar, gallery, and pulpit rails,--the wooden columns which
+support the roof,--the pews and doors, painted in excellent
+representation of rich-grained oak, please by their uniformity.
+They are in the gothic style. The decorations of the altar are
+very plain, merely consisting of the tables of the Commandments,
+the Lord's Prayer, and the Creed.
+
+Leaving the town of Bermudian Valley (of which I think there is
+scarcely a relic) "alone in its glory," we come to Parham, the
+remaining place of trade appointed during the time Col. Rowland
+Williams held the deputy-governorship of Antigua. Parham takes
+its name from the title of Lord William Willoughby of Parham. In
+1697, after the decease of Christopher Codrington, Esq., (the
+elder,) Parham appears to have been the residence of the
+lieutenant-governor, in preference to St. John's; and this
+circumstance gives rise to the statement of some authors, that
+Parham was once the capital of the island. It is another of those
+strangely straggling places whose streets are in many parts
+bordered with dagger (_aloe vulgaris_) instead of houses; but
+still it is far superior to Bridgetown, for some of its edifices
+boast of covered galleries, or balconies, flights of stone steps,
+and many other decorations.
+
+The parish church of St. Peter's, the second of the name, is an
+old dismal looking building, whose outward appearance is enough
+to give the observer a fit of that fashionable complaint,
+dyspepsia. It was erected in 1754, and affords 300 sittings. St.
+Peter's has a chapel-of-ease, the private property of the Rev.
+Nat. Gilbert, a descendant of the "founder of Methodism" in
+Antigua, who was speaker of the house of assembly in 1764.
+
+From some strange freak, or else from dire necessity, Parham
+churchyard is situated at about two miles distance from the
+church and town. It was formerly surrounded by a brick wall, but
+that is all falling to ruin. A more desolate-looking
+burying-ground I never saw--not a tree or flower near it; the
+very birds in their aerial wanderings seem to shun the spot.
+
+At a short distance from St. Peter's is fast rising into
+existence what will prove, when finished, a very neat and pretty
+church. It is an irregular octagonal--that is, the sides are not
+of equal dimensions. It is built of the same kind of stone as St.
+Philip's; but has a better effect, from the blocks being cut of
+larger size. The base of the tower is constructed from the
+interior; but in its present unfinished state, (1842) with all
+its multiplicity of scaffolding and frame work, it is impossible
+to say what will be the effect; except, as I have before
+remarked, it will no doubt make a pretty appearance when
+completed. The architect is an Englishman, and the head mason (a
+black man) appears to be well-versed in the mysteries of his
+trade, to judge from the excellent smoothness in the joints of
+the walls, and from a very neat key-stone which he has
+sculptured. This church is intended to take the name and service
+from the old one, which will then be dismantled.
+
+Besides the episcopal church, Parham boasts a very neat little
+chapel belonging to the Wesleyans, with a good stone
+mission-house and school-room adjoining. The general number of
+scholars at this school is seventy, including girls and boys;
+although upon our visit to it, there were not more than
+thirty-five. The school-room is a very airy and commodious
+building, capable of containing 600 or 700 persons. The children
+which compose the school are of every age, from three to
+fourteen. The instruction given them is plain, but good--
+scriptural knowledge, reading, spelling, writing, and arithmetic,
+with needlework for the girls. There are no pictorial
+embellishments in this school-room, merely a few selections from
+the Scriptures, cards of multiplication, and some black-painted
+boards upon which the children practise their little sums with a
+piece of chalk.
+
+The Wesleyan missionary stationed at Parham, the Rev. Mr.
+Keatley, (who appears to be a very amiable man,) mentioned as a
+well-known fact, that the schools in the country were always
+better attended the three first days in the week, and that after
+that period very few children made their appearance. Probably
+this is owing to their parents employing them in some domestic
+business which is more necessary at the close than at the
+beginning of the week.
+
+Parham harbour, although it affords safe anchorage when gained,
+is dangerous to the inexperienced navigator from the number of
+shoals and reefs which encumber its approach. It also contains
+some few islands, of which Bethel's Island is the largest. This
+harbour is protected from the inroads of the enemy by Port Byam,
+erected upon Barnacle Point, and which derives its name from
+Colonel Edward Byam, some-time governor of Antigua. It is said
+that within the precincts of this fort, Colonel Byam had a small
+room erected, where he was in the habit of receiving and
+entertaining a party of Caribs, who came yearly from some of the
+neighbouring islands, in order to smoke their calumets of peace
+with that gentleman.
+
+To the southward of Parham rises a curious hill, which is
+supposed to be the work of art, and to have answered for the
+burying-place of the ancient inhabitants, the Caribs. An old
+writer speaking of this tumulus, describes it as "in form a long
+square, very regular in all its parts, lessening gradually from
+its base to the top, which is flat, and may be from five to six
+hundred feet long, and from forty to fifty feet high."
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[97] From the summit of Monk's Hill, the eye can range over the
+whole island of Antigua, with the exception of one part, where
+the mountains intervene. The principal work, named Fort George,
+is mounted with pieces of cannon, said to have been taken in the
+"Foudroyant" man-of-war, in one of the many conflicts between the
+French and English.
+
+[98] For the genealogy, and a general account of this family, see
+Appendix.
+
+
+
+
+                         CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+
+
+  Forts and fortifications--Temporary ones--The present forts--
+  Fort James--Its situation and approach--Rat Island Battery, its
+  appellation, lunatic asylum, and flag-staff--Goat Hill--Steep
+  ascent--Schools in St. John's.
+
+It might be imagined that where nature has done so much for her
+favourite isle in the way of barricading it, by giving to Antigua
+a bold rocky coast, _art_, in the shape of forts and batteries,
+would be less called for. This, however, is not the case; the
+island coaster meets with many an embattled point, and many a
+sea-girt cliff supports the frowning walls of a battery.
+
+The forts in Antigua are Fort James, Rat Island Battery, Goat
+Hill or Fort Barrington, Old Fort, Johnston's Point Fort, Old
+Road Fort, Falmouth Fort, Fort Black's Point, Fort Charlotte and
+Fort Berkley at the entrance of English Harbour, Fort Christian,
+Fort Isaac, Fort William, Fort Harman, Flat Point Fort, Old Fort,
+and Fort Byam; Parham Harbour, Dickenson's Point Battery,
+Corbison's Fort, and Fort Hamilton. Of these, the greater part
+were merely temporary fortifications erected in those days of
+warfare when the French and Caribs, in their shallops and
+perrigoas, used to make such frequent attacks upon the island.
+Still, dismantled as many of these forts became in after-years,
+when peace spread her soft pinions over the lovely group of the
+Antilles, they retained their _names_, and served as sinecures to
+those persons who, from favouritism or superannuation, were
+exempted from militia duty, prior to the abolition of that body
+during the administration of Sir W. Colebrooke.[99]
+
+The fortifications at present in use are, Fort James, Rat Island
+Battery, Goat Hill, Fort George, Fort Johnston's Point, Old Road
+Fort, Monk's Hill, and the forts at English Harbour.
+
+Fort James was erected about the year 1704-5, on a spot of ground
+known as St. John's Point, which was given to his majesty Charles
+II., by Col. James Vaughan, in 1680. It is situated at the
+entrance of St. John's Harbour, and commands at once a beautiful
+and extensive view, while, from its frowning battlements, a
+deadly and raking fire could be poured upon the adventurous enemy
+who dared its anger. The rock upon which it is built appears to
+overhang the sea; and the waves, from constantly fretting and
+foaming around its base, have completely undermined it. If all
+proper precautions be not taken, the fort and its accompaniments
+will, some day, probably make a rapid descent into the yawning
+gulf beneath, and its avenging weapons no longer vomit forth
+their flaming breath upon the dauntless vessel who dares to pass
+it, without tendering to its captain his expected dole.[100]
+
+Fort James mounts but few guns, the rest are making themselves
+beds deep in the earth. This is one of the happy results of
+peace. Those murderous weapons repose in quietness, and that they
+may ever do so is my fervent prayer. A gun, however, is fired at
+sunrise and sunset; and her majesty's ships, as well as vessels
+of war belonging to other nations, are complimented with a grand
+discharge. The arrival and departure of the governor, members of
+council, &c., also call for a similar mark of honour. Serious
+accidents sometimes occur at such periods. A few months ago one
+of the matrosses had his arm so severely shattered by overloading
+the instrument when saluting a French man-of-war, that it became
+necessary to amputate the limb immediately. He has now happily
+regained his former health, and is employed upon the fort as a
+schoolmaster.
+
+The captain of Fort James receives 150l. sterling per annum, and
+the residence is one that many would gladly inhabit. Under him
+are stationed twelve matrosses, who receive very good pay. For
+the use of these last-mentioned persons, a temporary chapel has
+been established within these last few years, through the
+instrumentality of the Rev. John Horsford, Wesleyan missionary,
+son to the former governor of the fort, by which happy means they
+are enabled to attend Divine service once on the Lord's day.
+
+The road from the capital to Fort James, a distance of about four
+miles, is not very noted for the interest it displays. As the
+traveller nears the fort, an arm of the sea runs far inland,
+twisting and twining its rippling waters amid the clumps of
+aquatic shrubs in a most snake-like manner. Through this,
+equestrians and pedestrians, the emblazoned carriage, and the
+more humble gig, alike have to pass, while shoals of fairy-like
+fish dart from their parent waters in all directions; and as the
+sunbeams catch their silvery scales, almost blind the looker-on
+with their dazzling coruscations.
+
+Rat Island Battery is of itself a most picturesque object, as the
+stranger approaches Antigua. It lies within the harbour of St.
+John's, and takes its name from some fancied resemblance to that
+most destructive little quadruped, a rat. I cannot say this
+isapparent to my eyes, but the believers in such a similitude say
+that the rock personates the body of the animal, while the
+causeway which connects it to the main land plays the part of a
+tail. I have already mentioned the lunatic asylum lately erected
+upon this rock, whose whitened walls look cheerfully down upon
+the waters beneath, and little tells the observer how many
+darkened minds wander within them. The flag-staff upon Rat Island
+is often gaily decorated with various flags, and with a beating
+heart my eyes have often sought it, for there I learn the tidings
+that another packet has arrived from my native land, and, as I
+hope, brought me one of those little packages traced with "a grey
+goose-quill," and telling that those who are so dear to me are
+enjoying health and happiness in Old England.
+
+Goat Hill crowns the summit of a lofty hill upon the opposite
+side of the harbour to Fort James. When passing it by sea, our
+surprise is excited when we consider how it is possible to
+transport the heavy artillery and stores up the steep ascent; but
+the road is winding, and the difficulty is much sooner overcome
+than would be supposed. It was on the site of this fort that the
+French landed, in that memorable attack upon, and reduction of,
+the island in 1666. Near the base of Goat Hill, two peculiar
+shaped and blackened rocks rear their bare heads above the sea,
+around which the waves dash their lustrous foam with loud and
+angry moanings. The remaining forts, with the salaries of their
+several captains, and the means by which they are paid, will be
+found in the statistical portion of this work.
+
+From the forts, I proceed to mention the "Mico Charity" School at
+St. John's, where instruction is given in various branches of
+knowledge. Upon my visit to this school, I must say I was
+surprised to find among the dirty ragged little negroes, which
+comprised it generally, a herd of geographers, historians, and
+grammarians. The head-master happened to be absent, but a
+messenger was immediately despatched to call him; and, upon his
+arrival, the examination commenced, which I left entirely to
+themselves, wishing to see their own mode of tuition.
+
+The room, or rather rooms, were hung round with various pictorial
+embellishments, consisting of some very beautiful lithographed
+designs, representing the most interesting and affecting scenes
+in the Old and New Testament--birds and animals, fruits and
+flowers, steam apparatuses, machinery of all descriptions, modes
+of every branch of agriculture, and some excellent maps.
+
+A stand was placed in the middle of the apartment, and a boy of
+about twelve or thirteen took his station by the side of it, with
+the "wand of office" in his hand. It was now announced by the
+master--"Those boys who wish to ask questions, please hold up
+their hands," when immediately about eight or ten, of the same
+age as the one stationed in the middle of the room, replied by
+the motion required, while an air of animation sprang to their
+eyes, and lightened the dusky hue of their complexions. The first
+question was proposed by a boy, black as the late member of
+parliament's celebrated blacking, but whose scanty habiliments
+bore many a mark from the finger of time, and many a stain upon
+their once fair colour. "Who was Hannibal?" Answer, from the boy
+near the stand--"A Carthaginian general, who defeated the Romans
+in two engagements."
+
+It was now his turn to propound--"How is the true situation of
+any place upon the globe shewn?" Answer, from an
+intelligent-looking little mongrel boy, who was in such haste to
+reply, that it called for the aid of the master to render his
+rapid utterance understood--"By the intersection of that
+imaginary circle, which we call a parallel of latitude, with the
+meridian of the place in question." Having replied to this query,
+he asked the boy at the stand--"Who was the first Roman emperor
+that visited England, then called Britain, and in what year?"
+
+This was a puzzler. He could not answer to it; so he lost his
+conspicuous station, which was occupied by the more fortunate
+querist.
+
+Various other questions were then proposed in history and
+chronology; after which, an examination in the Old and New
+Testaments commenced--the interrogatories being still propounded
+by the boy: "Who was the man that climbed up into the tree, to
+see Jesus pass?" "Zaccheus."--"Where did Moses die?" inquired a
+pretty little girl. "On Mount Pisgah," was the answer. A tall,
+rather grim-looking boy, started up, and, in a sepulchral-toned
+voice, asked--"What is the difference between Pisgah and Nebo?"--
+"Nebo appears to have been a point, or pinnacle, of Mount
+Pisgah," replied a shrimpish boy by his side.
+
+An excellent map of the world was then brought, and attached to
+the stand in the middle of the apartment, so that the eyes of the
+whole school could rest upon it. The greater and lesser circles
+were then pointed out, the meaning of longitude and latitude
+defined, the form and divisions of the earth mentioned and
+descanted upon, and the sun's path through the ecliptic
+described.
+
+The question was then proposed to the school--"Would you like to
+sing?"--"Yes," from every lip. "You must promise to sing very
+soft and sweet," quoth the master. "Soft and sweet," reverberated
+from the whole of the scholars, like the tongue of an echo. Then
+came the "soft and sweet," as they termed it; and if the _burden_
+of a song could give _melody_ to the lips, it would have been
+more sweet than "the breath of the south wind upon a bed of
+violets," as Avon's favoured bard once sang; for it was all about
+our dear little Queen Victoria. To the tune of this loyal ditty
+they marched round the room, each class divided by their several
+teachers, carrying a pile of books, and then formed into
+semicircles, to be exercised in reading, writing, arithmetic,
+spelling, and grammar. Their spelling was very fair; many of them
+wrote a good hand; they all appeared conversant with the four
+first rules of arithmetic; and as for grammar, they talked about
+present tenses, and perfect participles, nouns, adverbs, and
+conjunctions, definites and indefinites, until I began to think
+they must have been born with a "Lindley Murray" in their mouths.
+I wish I could speak as well of their reading; but I suppose boys
+who talk about Hannibal and Artaxerxes, ecliptics and globular
+projections, and descant upon the merit of tenses, esteem it too
+common-place to read correctly words of two or three syllables.
+
+The average number of boys and girls attending this school is
+from 140 to 160; although, from the prevalence of the measles
+upon my visit, there were not more than half that number there.
+Young men are also received in this establishment as candidates
+for teachers; 100 of whom have, within these last four years,
+been disseminated throughout the schools in Antigua, and some of
+the other West India Islands, as fully qualified for instructing
+the rising generation in all the necessary branches of education.
+
+After experiencing the erudition of these advanced scholars, we
+passed into another part of the establishment appropriated to the
+use of the infant school. Here we found about sixty little
+creatures, two or three, to eight or ten years of age, seated
+upon their benches, raised one above the other--the elder ones
+occupying the upper tier.
+
+This apartment was also garnished with its pretty prints and
+Brobdignagian alphabets, and possessed its coloured maps and
+stands. The exercises were conducted in a similar manner as those
+in the other part of the seminary: an intelligent-looking little
+black boy taking his place by the centre stand, beside the map of
+Palestine, and answering very fluently the various questions
+proposed to him by the other children, at the same time pointing
+out the places. "Where did Jesus turn water into wine?" asked one
+of the little girls. "Cana, in Galilee."--"Who got his cedars
+from Lebanon?"--"Solomon," &c. They then sang one of their pretty
+little songs, to the tune of which they marched round the room,
+and, formed into classes, read, from a selection of pieces, "Dr.
+Franklin's Whistle." It was too difficult for them, and they
+bungled sadly through it; for although, like the elder pupils,
+they were geographers and historians, they had not made much
+progress in the art of reading. Their lessons over, they sang an
+anthem; and then, after a short prayer offered up by the master,
+the school broke up, and away they started with whoop and song,
+leaving me to ponder in my brain how far their manifold knowledge
+would benefit their after progress through life.
+
+Besides the Wesleyan and Mico schools, Antigua is further
+supplied with "repositories of learning," belonging to the
+established church and the Moravians. Our worthy rector, zealous
+in every good work, has a pleasing little infant-school near the
+rectory, besides schools in various other parts of the town and
+country. The Moravians have large schools at their different
+settlements; and a boys' and girls' school, with infant-school
+attached, adjoining their chapel in St. John's. I visited this
+last-mentioned school twice; but I am unable to speak of the
+acquirements of the scholars--they having been dismissed soon
+after my entrance, upon both occasions. They appear to cultivate
+the art of singing; for I heard them join in Mrs. Hemans' "Better
+Land," to the accompaniment of a small, but very sweet-toned
+organ, played by their superintendent. If I may be allowed to
+judge of the manners of the children, (which, I own, would not be
+quite right,) by those of the female teacher, I should be
+inclined to say, they were far behind any of the other schools I
+have visited in the island; for she appeared totally deficient in
+politeness or agreeable behaviour.
+
+I have thus endeavoured to shew that Antigua abounds in schools--
+the exact number of which will be found in the chapter on
+statistics. I sincerely hope that the benefits arising from them
+may be permanently felt by the lower classes, and that the
+patrons of these schools may reap the reward of their
+philanthropy. There are some sad examples: (sorry am I to be
+compelled to say so!) where, instead of improving, education has
+but tended to lead further into the paths of error; for the very
+passages of Scripture that have been taught them--the doctrines
+of salvation which have been inculcated, these unhappy creatures
+pervert to raise their ungodly mirth. Oh, how do our ears become
+shocked at every turn of the street, at every hour of the day, by
+the language of this class of persons! while that great and holy
+name, "at which every knee shall bow," is bandied about as a
+common interjection.
+
+There are some to be met with among the negroes whose display of
+learning is very ludicrous. We have a servant now living with us
+who often calls up from me an involuntary smile. I heard her
+speaking the other evening to a fellow-servant, whose name is
+Diana. "Diana, my goddess! come here. Let me see, Diana was the
+goddess of _truth_, and Junus the goddess of _sleep_, and so you
+must not tell me a story, or go to sleep!" Diana did not appear
+to comprehend this burst of eloquence, and so her friend went on
+to explain to her, that as "_Airy_ was the ram, and _Callus_ the
+bull, Virgo was a lion, and Quaris was a water-pot;" she must bow
+to her superior knowledge in everything. To this, Diana humbly
+assented with "Ees, Miss Charlotte!" accompanied by a stare of
+amazement. I don't wonder, however, at poor Diana's surprise at
+her friend's knowledge; I am sure she often startles me. Another
+evening, I saw her standing in the yard, with outstretched arms,
+and upturned eyes, gazing upon a bright star, which twinkled
+above, while in a very lackadaisical tone, she exclaimed, "Oh,
+Mars! _invoke_ me by thy rays!"
+
+I hope, however, what I have said in this last page will not
+discountenance those worthy characters who are employed in
+opening the book of knowledge to the eyes of the ignorant. In the
+words of a much-admired writer, "the delightful hope may be
+cherished by him who shall bring his mite for the promotion of
+the Lancastrian system of instruction for giving knowledge to the
+ignorant--the hope that he is providing for the display of a
+genius in works of the highest utility, which might otherwise
+have expended itself in a career of infamous contrivance, long
+operating as a pest to society, terminating in the ignominious
+destruction of the victim of the want of education. And when the
+intimate connexion between _ignorance_ and vice is considered,
+surely all who wish to lessen the sum of the latter will assist
+the endeavours that are now making to plant the tree of knowledge
+amid the desert and deformed waste;--to convert that which is now
+cheerless and blank into a field of profuse beauty teeming with
+the real wealth and strength of nations."
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[99] Several of these forts were sold by the legislature, after
+the conclusion of the war with America.
+
+[100] It has been the custom, although the _law_ does not command
+it, to pay to the captain of this fort 18s. currency, for every
+vessel, no matter what her tonnage, passing from the harbour. As
+there are many owners of small crafts in Antigua, whose pockets
+are not so well provided with this world's wealth, as to enable
+them to fling it abroad upon every occasion, they are glad to
+take advantage of the absence of necessity, and retain for their
+own use the two dollars, which custom or caprice has reserved for
+the commandant, and pass the fort without paying the tribute.
+This conduct is generally resented by despatching after the
+offending vessel an angry message, in the shape of a cannon-shot.
+It appears extraordinary, that such a monstrous and illegal
+proceeding as firing upon the vessels should be permitted, or at
+least tacitly sanctioned by the government.
+
+
+
+
+                        CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+
+
+  Remarks upon the aboriginal Americans--Suppositions of various
+  authors--Caribs--Arrowawks--Ferocity of the Carib--Complexion--
+  Dress--Ornaments--Dreadful revenge--Wars-Chiefs--Severities
+  practised--Feasts--Remarks upon paganism--Anthropophagi--A
+  traveller's tale--The Carib's opinion of death--Religious
+  tenets--Altars--The burning Carib.
+
+It may perhaps be proper to remark, that although this work has
+been entitled, "Antigua and Antiguans," still, as I have
+commenced its history from the period of its first discovery, it
+will be necessary to say something about its ancient inhabitants,
+the Caribs. As it is impossible at this lapse of time, to give
+the history of the individual tribe who peopled this island, I
+have been obliged to gather my information from what the early
+writers have transmitted to posterity, of the habit and customs
+of the entire nation. Consequently, while I am writing of the
+Carib of Antigua, or, as the island was called at that period,
+"Xamayca," I must at the same time allude to those of the other
+islands; only remarking, that ferocious as they all were, the
+Carib of this country seems to have borne the pre-eminence in
+hardy daring and relentless animosity toward their conquerors. In
+the same manner, I have thought proper to give a short account of
+the discovery of America, as antecedent to that of this island;
+and as, in furtherance of my plan, I have introduced Columbus to
+my readers, from his boyhood, it is but right I should trace the
+Caribbean nation from their source. With this apology for trying
+the patience of my readers, while I write of a people whose
+existence is no more, I will proceed with my subject, which I
+hope may neither prove foreign nor unpleasant.
+
+To enter into minute inquiries how America and its contiguous
+islands were _first peopled_, would fill many volumes, the
+opinions of the learned upon this subject being so various. Some
+authors suppose the Americans do not derive their existence from
+the same common parent as the rest of mankind. Others, that they
+are descended from a remnant of the antediluvian world which
+survived the deluge; but this must be erroneous, or how are we to
+understand the sacred historian, when, speaking of that momentous
+circumstance, he says--"And all flesh died that moved upon the
+earth, both of fowl, and of cattle, and of beast, and of every
+creeping thing that creepeth upon the face of the earth, and
+every man. _All_ in whose nostrils was the breath of life, _of
+all that was in the dry land, died!_"--Gen. vii. 21, 22. Again,
+many authors assert that their ancestors came from the north-east
+of Asia, after the dispersion of the people for their impious
+attempt to build the Tower of Babel; and to establish this
+doctrine upon a firmer basis, endeavour to point out the great
+similitude between the Asiatics and the Southern Americans, in
+their manners, customs, and general appearance. Another, and
+perhaps the most probable idea, is, that the _southern_ parts of
+North America, and the islands which lie in the Gulf of Mexico,
+and the Caribbean Sea, were originally peopled by Africans. This
+idea is maintained by various speculations:--as the trade-winds
+blow direct from east to west, a canoe of these savages might
+have been driven by bad weather across the Atlantic; and this
+position may be further proved by the statement of the Indians of
+Florida, who, when asked about their origin, reply, "that their
+ancestors came from the east, and that at the time they
+discovered America, they were nearly dead from want of
+provisions." These Africans, uniting with the different tribes
+with which the other parts of America were peopled, must have
+produced the various degrees of colour and character which
+astonished so much the first discoverers of this extensive
+quarter of the world.
+
+The Caribs, from whom Antigua and the adjoining islands took
+their names, were a very different race of beings from the gentle
+and hospitable inhabitants of Cuba, Jamaica, Hayti, &c., who were
+called Arrowawks, and with whom the Caribs were ever at war. From
+the martial and ferocious spirit of the Caribs, and from their
+repasts upon human flesh, historians agree in supposing they were
+descended from the Africans; while, on the contrary, the
+peacefulness and indolence of the Arrowawks evidently bespeak
+them of an Asiatic origin.
+
+When Columbus visited these islands for the first time, he found
+the inhabitants so very savage, that he was for a while fearful
+of landing; but upon despatching small presents to them, they
+afterwards appeared more friendly, and desirous of an
+acquaintance. In nearly all of their huts were found relics of
+their horrid feasts upon the bodies of their slaughtered enemies;
+and in one of them, a man's arm was roasting for the intended
+meal of the inmates.
+
+The character of the Caribs presents little of what is
+interesting to the imagination; ferocious, superstitious, and
+revengeful, they looked upon all strangers as enemies; and, in
+return, were dreaded as such by the inhabitants of the other
+islands; still they are represented as being, generally,
+peaceable and friendly to one another. They ever retained a high
+sense of equality and independence. Accustomed to be absolute
+masters of their own conduct, they scorned to follow the orders
+of others; and having never known control, they would not submit
+to correction. Many, when they found they were treated as slaves
+by the Spaniards, and that resistance or escape was impossible,
+sought refuge from calamity in the arms of death. While the Carib
+roamed in his native wilds, his reason was but little exercised,
+and consequently, his intellectual powers were very limited. His
+ideas never extended beyond the narrow sphere in which he moved,
+and everything but his present preservation and enjoyment was
+perfectly indifferent to him. When disposed to sleep, no
+consideration on earth would tempt him to sell his bed; but in
+the morning, when satisfied with slumber, and prepared to set out
+on the usual business or recreation of the day, the Carib has
+been known to dispose of it for the smallest trifle which caught
+his fancy. The only thing they deemed of _real_ value, was their
+weapons--consequently, when they found, by sad experience, the
+superiority of fire-arms over the bow and arrows of their own
+country, they viewed them with unbounded admiration; but the
+inventions and improvements of civilized life, with all the arts
+and manufactures of the Spaniards, they regarded with apathy, or
+paid them the same attention as we do the toys of childhood.
+
+Columbus noticed two distinct races of Caribs. One was quite
+black, with hair approaching to woolly; the other, of a deep
+copper colour complexion, with long, straight hair; the latter
+inhabited Antigua and the adjoining islands, while the blacks
+predominated more in the islands further south. In appearance,
+the Caribs were robust and muscular; their limbs flexible and
+active. They ornamented their hair with shells and grease; and
+some of them had it turned up like women, and decorated with thin
+plates of gold, which they procured from the Arrowawks. Their
+garments were composed of cotton cloth, fabricated by their
+females, and which they had the art of staining red, their
+favourite colour; but many of them were in a state of nudity. The
+cartilage of the nostril was perforated, and in it they stuck a
+piece of tortoise-shell, the bone of a fish highly polished, or a
+parrot's feather. They adorned their arms, neck, and ankles, with
+the teeth of their enemies which they had slain in battle, or
+devoured at home. Their bodies were painted in the most hideous
+manner, which appears to have been intended to make them look
+more formidable in the eyes of their enemies than pleasing in the
+sight of their friends. The favourite style of doing this, was
+first to smear a quantity of red paint all over them; they then
+encircled one eye with a streak of white, and the other with one
+of black; they also disfigured their cheeks with deep incisions
+and horrible scars, which they stained with various colours; and
+the greater number and depth of these disfigurations constituted
+their idea of manly beauty, and martial appearance.
+
+Their revenge was deep and implacable--it resembled rather the
+wild fury of a lion than the passion of a man. When anger took
+possession of a Carib's heart, he vented it against everything,
+whether animate or inanimate, which chanced to fall in his way.
+Although in general calm and apparently insensible to pain, if
+struck by an arrow in these moments of rage, like the North
+American Indian, he would tear it from the wound, bite it, spit
+upon it, and, dashing it to the ground, trample it to atoms
+beneath his feet. He never pitied--never forgave--never spared!
+To fall upon an enemy unarmed, knock him down, capture him, and
+finally eat him, was the boast of a Carib warrior! For this they
+were bred up from their youth. To bear with an unflinching spirit
+the most excruciating torments, inflicted by the hands of his own
+father and nearest kin--to suffer all the severities and
+unnatural cruelties which the savage breast was capable of
+imagining without betraying one symptom of weakness--to rise
+superior to pain, and baffle the rage of his persecutors by
+calmness and tranquillity, was the test by which the courage of
+the young Carib was tried. If he succeeded in this, he was looked
+upon as one of the warriors of his country, and pronounced "a man
+like themselves;" while, on the contrary, should one cry escape
+his lips, one supplication for mercy break from him, he was
+despised as a coward, and driven from society.
+
+When an expedition against the Arrowawks was intended, a chief
+was elected, with solemn ceremonies. During the time of peace,
+however, the Caribs appear to have owned no head; they paid,
+indeed, some little veneration to the old men, but this appears
+to have been merely from respect to their age,--at any rate, they
+were not able, by their influence, to protect the weak or the
+stranger. The man who aspired to lead his countrymen to war was
+obliged to undergo the most severe sufferings before he was
+accounted worthy of that honour. If he was successful, upon his
+return he was treated with a grand feast, and was allowed to take
+as many captives for his own share as he liked, and alter his
+name a second time to that of the most formidable Arrowawk who
+had fallen by his hand, while his own people presented for his
+choice the most beautiful of their daughters. Their mode of
+warfare was very different to that of the present day,--they
+thought it no honour to fall fighting for their country. Their
+plan was, not to wait for a drawing up of their forces, but to
+capture all their foes they found unprepared, whom, at the end of
+the war, they carried home, and either slaughtered them for the
+grand feast, or kept them until they became sufficiently plump
+for eating. They preserved the fat of these poor creatures to
+anoint the bodies of their children, in hopes of making them as
+martial as themselves.
+
+Happy for us is it that we live in an age when Paganism, with all
+its accompanying horrors, has given place to the mild doctrines
+of Christianity--when this land, so beautified by the hand of
+Nature, is freed from those barbarous wars, those soul-sickening
+feasts of human flesh, which once polluted it! That man can
+actually devour his fellow-creatures is almost incredible--
+indeed, some persons of philosophical minds have doubted the
+truth of anthropophagy; yet, shocking as it is to the
+imagination, it has been too fully proved to be denied; indeed,
+some of the Caribs, when, in later years, they have been asked
+about this revolting practice, have unhesitatingly answered in
+the affirmative, and even gone so far as to say that Frenchmen
+eat better than Englishmen, and Englishmen better than
+natives.[101] Although, within these last years, so much has been
+effected by the laudable zeal of Christian missionaries, yet,
+even now, there are "dark corners of the earth" where human flesh
+is not only eaten from feelings of revenge, but partook of as a
+luxury.[102]
+
+I read in a periodical, some time ago, a circumstance which may
+be termed a romance of real life. I pretend not to give it in its
+original words, but the tenour of the case is as follows: A
+gentleman was once travelling through the interior of Grenada, or
+Trinidad, I am not certain which, and after riding for some time
+through rocky defiles and umbrageous woods, he at length came to
+an open plain, on which was erected about half a dozen Carib
+huts. Riding up to the door of the principal one, an old man was
+seen reclining upon a rustic seat, who at the approach of the
+stranger arose, and, with much native politeness, invited him to
+alight, and spend the day at his hut. The gentleman, being one
+who was travelling in pursuit of knowledge as well as amusement,
+was well pleased to have the opportunity of becoming a little
+acquainted with the domestic manners of this ancient people.
+After walking about for some time, and making sketches of the
+various beautiful scenes which surrounded the hut, his attention
+was arrested by the plaintive cry of a female. Having a good
+supply of the "milk of human kindness" within his breast, and a
+heart open to the distresses of his species, the traveller
+determined to go in quest of the afflicted fair. Directing his
+steps by the sound of the voice, which appeared to issue from a
+magnificent grove of trees near the spot, he soon came in sight
+of the object of his commiseration, whom he found to be, not a
+fair, but a dark beauty, of sixteen or seventeen years of age.
+Her long black hair floated down her naked shoulders; the tears
+were rolling over her smooth brown cheeks; while her languishing
+dark eyes were turned with mournful looks upon the face of a man,
+who, with knitted brow, was employed in fastening her slender
+wrists to one of the trees. Supposing she had committed some
+fault for which she was about to receive corporal punishment, the
+gentleman begged very earnestly for her pardon; and from the
+smile which passed over the harsh features of the man, he thought
+his request was complied with.
+
+The day passed very rapidly, and our traveller was delighted with
+all he saw. His host was all attention, pointing out to his
+notice whatever he thought would amuse; and when dinner was
+announced, ushered him into his hut with the air of a French
+_petit-maitre_. The dinner table was laid out in the English
+style, in compliment to his guest; and the calabashes which
+contained the water &c. were beautifully carved and stained. The
+first refreshment introduced was soup, which was contained in an
+English tin tureen, that shone like silver; and from the keen air
+of the mountain, and the exercise he had taken, our traveller
+made a very hearty repast upon it. After its removal, and while
+waiting for the other viands, the host asked--"How he liked Carib
+soup?" "Excellent!" said the gentleman--"very delicious--I must
+beg a few receipts from your _cookery book_." "O, it's very
+simple," replied the old Carib, "if you have the proper articles
+to make it of: what you have been eating was made from the hands
+and feet of the girl you were begging for this morning!" What
+were the feelings of the traveller at this horrible information
+can be better imagined than described. The repast he had _shared
+in_, the fate of the poor girl, and his own situation amid a race
+of cannibals, filled him with horror, and almost drove reason
+from her throne. It is almost unnecessary to state that he left
+the scene of bloodshed as soon as possible; and never, never more
+did he think of visiting a Carib, or partaking of _Carib soup_. I
+have given the story as I received it; as to its _authenticity_,
+I will not take upon myself to vouch for it.
+
+With regard to the religious rites and tenets of the Caribs but
+little can be said, for but little is known with any degree of
+truth. They appear to have an idea that death was not a final
+extinction of being; but that the soul (or rather souls, for it
+was the general opinion among them that every pulse that beat in
+their bodies was a _separate_ soul) went to another world, where
+they enjoyed themselves very much after the manner they did in
+this, and that their bows and arrows were as necessary there as
+here. For this reason they buried the weapons in the graves of
+their friends, and inhumed several captives with them, that they
+might have attendants in "the land of spirits." Some authors
+assert that they acknowledged one great universal Cause, to whom
+they gave the name of "Mayboya," who was invisible to them, but
+who watched their actions, and heard their words; that this being
+possessed an irresistible power; and that subordinate to him were
+many other gods. Other writers, however, maintain that the Caribs
+had not even a name for a deity; and that after death they
+believed they decayed away like the animals they were acquainted
+with. Which was the fact is a matter of surmise; but Columbus
+mentions that in several of their huts were seen little altars
+composed of banana leaves and rushes, and that upon these were
+laid offerings of fruit, fish, flowers, &c. It seems probable
+that their religious principles were like those of other savages,
+suggested rather by the dread of impending evils, than gratitude
+for favours received. "We can all forget benefits, although we
+implore mercy," was their motto.
+
+Some of the Caribs pretended to be magicians, and worshipped
+demons with rites and ceremonies of the darkest superstition:
+these people were termed Boyez, and in them was placed implicit
+faith. Upon the discovery of these islands, the Spaniards
+endeavoured to convert the natives to Christianity; but the means
+used to accomplish this were diametrically opposite to what they
+ought to have been. Instead of setting it forth as a doctrine of
+love and mercy, and inculcating its precepts with mildness and
+humanity, they shewed at once the bloody tenets of the church of
+Rome, and condemned those to the stake who did not immediately
+subscribe to their opinions.
+
+This manner of proceeding, instead of converting the Caribs, only
+fixed firmer in their minds their dislike to the intruders; they
+witnessed their quarrels among themselves, their ferocious and
+implacable resentments, their insatiable thirst after gold, and
+the cruelties they perpetrated in searching after that metal. Can
+it be wondered at, then, that they did not believe the
+superiority of the Christian religion, as taught by the
+Spaniards, over their own? or that the rites of baptism, which
+they could not understand or appreciate, were despised by them?
+
+One of these unhappy people being condemned to be burnt for his
+attempts to save his country from the encroachments of its
+conquerors, was promised, by a Roman-catholic priest, admittance
+into heaven if he would only embrace the Christian faith before
+he died. "Are there any Spaniards in that region of bliss you
+tell me of?" inquired the unhappy victim. "Yes," replied the
+priest; "but only such as are good."--"Then I will never go
+there, where I may meet with one of that accursed race; for the
+_best_ of _them_ have neither worth nor goodness." And from the
+cruel treatment these islanders met with, there was but too much
+reason in this exclamation.
+
+
+                             ------
+
+[101] Some authors assert that this is only vanity in the French;
+that they think so highly of themselves, that even in the
+_interesting_ point of being eaten, they will not allow the
+pre-eminence to other nations.
+
+[102] "The New Zealanders are perpetually carrying on war with
+each other, to which they are stimulated, not by thirst of
+conquest, but by the desire of eating the flesh of their
+antagonists!"--See Prichard's "Researches."
+
+                         END OF VOL. I.
+
+         T. C. Savill, Printer, 107, St. Martin's Lane.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Antigua and the Antiguans, Volume I
+(of 2), by Anonymous
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