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diff --git a/38519-0.txt b/38519-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c7a828a --- /dev/null +++ b/38519-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10944 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de +Pollnitz, Volume IV, by Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume IV + Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from + Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, + England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not + Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but + the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several + Courts. + +Author: Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz + +Release Date: January 7, 2012 [EBook #38519] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MEMOIRS *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Henry Gardiner and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + + + + + + * * * * * + +Transcriber’s Note: The original publication has been replicated +faithfully except as shown in the TRANSCRIBER’S AMENDMENTS at the end of +the text. This etext presumes a mono-spaced font on the user’s device, +such as Courier New. Words in italics are indicated like _this_. Footnotes +are located near the end of the work. + + * * * * * + + [Illustration: _Lestevenon de Berkenroode._] + + [Illustration: Decoration.] + + + + + THE + + MEMOIRS + + OF + + _CHARLES-LEWIS_, + + Baron de POLLNITZ. + + BEING + + The OBSERVATIONS He made in his + late TRAVELS from _Prussia_, through + + _POLAND_, + _GERMANY_, + _ITALY_, + _FRANCE_, + _SPAIN_, + _FLANDERS_, + _HOLLAND_, + _ENGLAND_, &c. + + Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE + of the Chief CITIES and TOWNS; + + BUT + + The CHARACTERS of the PRINCIPAL PERSONS + at the Several COURTS. + + VOL. IV. + + _LONDON_: + + Printed for DANIEL BROWNE, at the _Black Swan_, + without _Temple-Bar_; and JOHN BRINDLEY, at + the _King’s-Arms_, in _New Bond-street_. + + M. DCC. XXXVIII. + + + + + TABLE OF CONTENTS + + + MEMOIR 1 + + APPENDIX 301 + + INDEX 356 + + + [Illustration: Decoration.] + + + + + MEMOIRS + + OF THE + + Baron DE POLLNITZ. + + VOL. IV. + + +_To Madame_ DE ----. + +The Conduct of the Court of _Spain_, tho’ it really made the Court of +_Vienna_ uneasy, did not hinder the Emperor from carrying on the War +against the _Turks_ with Vigour: And Heaven so prosper’d the Imperial +Arms, that in 1718 Prince _Eugene_ gain’d the most signal Victory near +_Belgrade_ that the Christians could have hop’d for. Soon after that +Battle the victorious Troops reduc’d _Belgrade_, and at length the _Turks_ +were forc’d to sue for a Peace: While every Thing seem’d to have a +Tendency that way, _Spain_ put to Sea the most formidable Fleet she had +ever equipp’d since that unfortunate one call’d, _The Invincible Armado_; +and sent it to the Coast of _Sicily_, where it put a numerous Army on +Shore, under Command of the Marquis _de Lede_. The Count _de Maffei_ +Viceroy of the Kingdom for the Duke of _Savoy_, who was King of _Sicily_, +made all the Resistance possible, considering the Weakness of his Army; +and tho’ not able to save the Island, yet he made such a Defence as +hinder’d the _Spanish_ Army from pushing its Conquests farther by giving +Time to Admiral _Bing_, who commanded the _English_ Fleet, to enter the +_Mediterranean_, and execute the Orders he had to attack the _Spanish_ +Fleet. These Orders imported, that he was to act in a friendly manners in +case that _Spain_ desisted from its Enterprizes against the Neutrality of +_Italy_; but otherwise to make a vigorous Resistance. Admiral _Bing_ +communicated these Orders to Cardinal _Alberoni_, who answer’d him +gravely, _That he had nothing to do but to put them in Execution_. The +Admiral did so with a Vengeance; for on the 11th of _August_ he gave +Battle to the _Spanish_ Fleet, and intirely defeated it. As soon as the +Duke Regent was inform’d of the News, he sent away a Courier to the +_French_ Ambassador at _Madrid_, with Letters from the Earl of _Stairs_ to +the _English_ Ambassador Earl _Stanhope_. The Design of his Royal Highness +was to engage the latter to return to _Madrid_, from whence he set out on +the 27th of _August_, that he might make fresh Instances there for a Peace +with Cardinal _Alberoni_, who to be sure was a little stunn’d at this +Reverse of Fortune. But the Earl, whether he did not meet the Courier, or +whether he did not think it proper to return to _Spain_, arriv’d at +_Paris_ on the 9th of _September_. + +Mean Time the War betwixt the Emperor and the _Turks_ was at an End, and +Orders were actually given for sending the Imperial Troops into _Italy_. +The Regent despairing at that Time of persuading the King of _Spain_ to a +Peace, order’d the Abbat _du Bois_, the _French_ Ambassador at _London_, +to sign the Treaty commonly call’d _The Quadruple Alliance_, in +Conjunction with the Ambassadors of _England_ and the Emperor. He also +repeated his Orders to the Duke of _St. Aignan_, to try all the means +imaginable to prevail on the King of _Spain_ to accede to the Terms that +were propos’d to him by the Quadruple Alliance; but his Catholic Majesty +persisted so long in his Refusal, that his Royal Highness resolv’d to +declare War against him, and the Duke of _St. Aignan_ had Orders to demand +his Audience of Leave. + +At that Time the Regent happily discover’d a Conspiracy that was form’d +against him in the very Heart of the Kingdom. The King of _England_ had +before appriz’d him, that there was some Contrivance on Foot; but the +Names of the Conspirators, and what they were to do, was a Secret. Mean +time the Regent suspecting that all these Intrigues were only fomented by +the Minister of _Spain_, he caus’d the Prince _de la Cellamare_, +Ambassador from that Crown, to be so narrowly watch’d that he was soon let +into the Secret of the whole Intrigue carrying on against him, which was +in short no less than to remove him from the Regency. The _Spanish_ +Minister for the better Success had caus’d a Body of Troops to be +assembled in _France_, where they stroll’d about like Fellows that dealt +in unlicens’d Salt, and other Contraband Goods; but upon a particular Day +they were to enter _Paris_, invest the Royal Palace, and to secure the +Person of the Regent. The Conspiracy was detected almost at the same +Instant that it was to have been executed; and of this the Prince _de +Cellamare_ himself was partly the Cause; not that I suspect him of having +betray’d the _Spanish_ Minister, but probably he was too credulous of +every one that came to him; for I was told, that the Pacquet containing +the whole Mystery of the Conspiracy, and the Names of the Conspirators, +was put into the Hands of the Abbat _Portocarrero_, in Presence of a +Couple of Domesticks, whose infidelity was not perhaps Proof against the +Lewidors of the Royal Palace. Besides, this Abbat, tho’ a Person of Merit, +had not perhaps Experience or Wisdom enough to behave as was absolutely +necessary in so ticklish an Affair. Be this as it will, he set out for +_Madrid_ with such Dispatches committed to his Care as contain’d the +Fortunes of a great Number of People. He had not travell’d far, when, as +he was passing a Ford, his Chaise broke, and he had like to have been +drown’d; but notwithstanding the Danger of his Person, he seem’d to be +more in Pain for his Trunk than for his Life. This Earnestness for the +Preservation of his Trunk gave a Suspicion to those who attended him; and +the Spies whom the Regent had planted upon him, advertis’d that Prince of +it time enough for him to give his Orders to the Commandant of _Poictiers_ +to cause him to be arrested, and his Trunk to be secur’d. The Abbat was +accordingly arrested[1], and brought back to _Paris_. The Prince _de +Cellamare_, being inform’d of what had pass’d, claim’d the Trunk, saying +it contain’d the Memoirs of his Embassy: He was given to understand, that +his Word was not to be taken, and the Trunk being open’d at the Royal +Palace, there was all the Scheme of the Conspiracy, and the List of the +Persons that were enter’d into it. The Thing that gave the Regent most +Vexation was, to see the Names of Persons there, upon whom he had heap’d +his Favours. His Royal Highness acted in this delicate Conjuncture with +all the Moderation possible, and his Behaviour was in every Respect so +discreet, that it was hardly discernible that any Thing extraordinary was +passing in _France_; he caus’d the Abbat _Portocarrero_ to be releas’d, as +an insignificant Tool; but as to the Prince _de Cellamare_, he was invited +to a Conference at the Royal Palace, to which he no sooner arriv’d, but +Messengers were sent to clap a Seal on his Effects. The Ministers went +with him afterwards to his own House, where he was surpriz’d to find a +Guard that was charg’d to be answerable for his Person. Some Days after +this, all his Papers were examin’d, and Three Boxes were fill’d with them +in his Presence, which were seal’d and carry’d to the _Louvre_, there to +be kept till the King of _Spain_ sent Persons that he could confide in to +fetch them. At length on the 13th of _December_, the Prince _de Cellamare_ +set out from _Paris_ with a Guard: As for the Smugglers, they vanish’d as +soon as the Conspiracy was brought to Light: All this pass’d in the Month +of _December_, 1718. + +The 29th of the same Month the Duke and Duchess of _Maine_ were arrested: +The Duke had been the Day before to pay a Visit to the Duchess of +_Orleans_ at the Royal Palace, and stay’d there Three Hours, after which +he return’d to lye at _Seaux_; where next Morning a Lieutenant of the +Guards came and told him, that he had Orders to carry him under a strong +Guard to the Castle of _Dourlens_. The same Day at Seven in the Morning, +the Marquis _D’Ancenis_, who was Captain of the Guards after the Death of +his Father the Duke of _Charost_, during whose Life he had the Post in +Reversion, had an Order to arrest the Duchess of _Maine_: This Officer had +supp’d but the Night before with the Princess, and stayed with her very +late; guess then how he must be surpriz’d when he came Home, and found the +_Letter de Cachet_ or Warrant, which put him upon an Office that he would +have been glad to be excused from serving; but the Order must be obeyed, +and therefore he went next Day to the Princess’s Apartment, who was then +in Bed, as were also her Ladies; so that the Servants were very much +startled to see M. _D’Ancenis_ there again so early, and scrupled at first +to awake the Duchess; but, as they imagined the Marquis was come about an +Affair of great Consequence, the Ladies let him in: The Princess, being +wak’d out of her Sleep by the Noise of the Door, as it open’d, ask’d, Who +was there? M. _D’Ancenis_ having told her his Name, she said to him +hastily, _Oh! my God! What have I done to you, that you should disturb me +so soon in the Morning?_ He then told her the melancholy Commission that +he was sent upon. They say, her Ladyship was much more provok’d at this +Disgrace than the Duke her Husband; and she could not help dropping some +Words which shew’d plain enough that she was impatient under her +Misfortune. However, she was quickly dress’d, and getting into a Coach +with Three of her Waiting-Women, she was conducted to the Castle of +_Dijon_: All her chief Domestics were committed, some to the _Bastille_, +and others to _Vincennes_. The Prince of _Dombes_ and the Count _de Eu_ +were banish’d to _Eu_, where they had so much Liberty however, that this +Change of Fortune had not altogether the Air of Disgrace. As for +_Maidemoiselle de Maine_, the Princess of _Conty_ took her Home with her. +The Cardinal _de Polignac_, who was very much attach’d to the Family of +_Maine_, also shar’d their Fate; for he was banish’d to his Abbey of +_Anchin_, and had but Two Hours allow’d him to set his Affairs in Order. + +While these Things pass’d in _France_, the King of _Spain_, or rather his +Minister, caus’d the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, to +be very ill treated, who having taken Leave of the King and Queen, stay’d +some Days longer to settle his domestic Affairs, perhaps also to see what +Turn Things would take, in case the King of _Spain_, who was then +dangerously ill, should die. I am assur’d that the King having told him, +that by his Will he left the Regency to the Queen and Cardinal _Alberoni_, +the Ambassador made Answer, That his Testamentary Settlement might +probably be of as little Effect as _Lewis_ XIV’s was. This Answer +displeas’d the Cardinal, who thought of nothing but of being reveng’d; and +indeed some time after, the Marquis _de Grimaldo_, Secretary of State, +went to the Duke of _St. Aignan_, and signify’d an Order to him from the +King, to leave _Madrid_ in Twenty-four Hours, and the Kingdom in Twelve +Days. ’Twas 10 o’Clock at Night when this Order was notify’d, and next +Day, _viz._ the 14th of _December_, at 7 o’Clock in the Morning, the +Ambassador’s House was surrounded by a Party of Life-Guards, commanded by +an Exempt, who having plac’d Centinels at all the Doors of his Lodging, +enter’d the Duke’s Apartment, who was still a-bed with his Duchess, made +them dress themselves with all Speed, and then conducted them out of the +City. + +Cardinal _Alberoni_, who did not yet know, that the Plot he had laid was +discover’d, wrote with Speed to the Prince of _Cellamare_, that he might +guess what to expect after the Treatment that had been shewn to the +Ambassador of _France_; tho’ he told him, that ought not to be a Reason +for using him in the same manner, and that the Duke _de St. Aignan_’s +Misbehaviour had made it necessary to take that Course with him. He +exhorted him not to stir from _Paris_, till he was compell’d to it by +Force, nor even then, till he had made all the convenient Protests. He +said to him in the Conclusion, _Put the Case that your Excellency be +oblig’d to go, you will first set Fire to all your Mines_. Little did he +think how terribly they were at that Time countermin’d! + +This Letter, which was a farther Confirmation of the Prince _de +Cellamare_’s Conspiracy, and the Affront put upon the Ambassador of the +most Christian King, intirely convinc’d the Regent, that the _Spanish_ +Minister was resolv’d to go all Lengths. War was declar’d on both Sides, +in which _Spain_ did not come off with Honour. I shall have further +Occasion to speak of it to you some Time hereafter. + +I am next to give you an Account, how it far’d with myself at this Time: +Tho’ I had no Hand in this Plot, yet I was shrewdly suspected; for several +Conferences were held at my House: I was intimate with those who were +deepest in the Secret, and in Fine, whether it proceeded from Prudence, +or from a Panic, I resolv’d to take Care of myself. I set out from _Paris_ +in a very great Hurry, with a Design to repair to the Palatine Court, and +stay there till the Storm was quite over. I went to _Germany_ thro’ +_Lorrain_, but had much ado to get thither, because I had no Passport, and +Orders were arriv’d from Court, to stop all that travell’d without one; I +therefore thought of the following Stratagem. + + * * * * * + +About a League from _Toul_, which is the last Place in _France_, I feign’d +myself sick, that I might have some colour for halting there, and +dismissing my Postilion. At that Village I lay all Night, and rising very +early next Morning, I told my Landlady that I would go to _Toul_ on Foot, +and desir’d her to send my Boots according to a Direction I left with her. +My Design was to go into _Toul_ as a Townsman; for I hop’d, that my being +on Foot, and not having the Air of a Traveller, I should pass without +Molestation; but I was quite mistaken; for the Guard stopp’d me, and ask’d +me, Who I was, and, Wither I was bound? I said, That I was a _German_, +that I had been the _Valet de Chambre_ of a _German_ Nobleman, who dy’d at +_Paris_, and that I was returning from thence Homewards. The Officer +carry’d me before the King’s Lieutenant, who, I thought, was a mere Brute; +yet I think I should be in the Wrong to complain, for I gave myself out +for a Footman, and really as such he treated me: He put several Questions +to me, which I always made Answer to like a most submissive Lackey, in +Hopes of soothing his sullen Humour; but nothing could defend me from his +Reproaches: _You are not a Footman_, said he, _I rather believe you are +some Bankrupt; therefore tell me the Truth, or I’ll instantly throw you +into a Dungeon._ I still affirm’d, that I was a Footman; but the +Lieutenant, not well pleas’d with my Answer, committed me to the +Guard-House, where he left me Five or Six Hours, and then sent me Word, +that I might go to an Inn: I was conducted thither by a Soldier, who was +always a Guard upon me, and next Day carry’d me again before the King’s +Lieutenant, who took me into his Closet, and told me, ’Twas to no Purpose +for me to think of concealing myself any longer from him; for that he was +just inform’d who I was, by a Person who knew me. I own, _Madame_, that I +began to be afraid, yet I stood to my Text still, with all the Assurance +that could be. He then call’d one of his Domestics, and bid him fetch the +Man that knew me; but ’twas well for me, that this Person had no Existence +but in his Imagine. Mean Time he seem’d to be out of Patience that he did +not come; and at last told me, that I must return to the Guard-House, and +not stir from thence till I had fully satisfy’d him who and what I was. +Then I happen’d to hit upon an Expedient which prov’d a lucky one; I told +him, That I was very willing to remain in Custody till I had receiv’d an +Answer from the Landlady of the Inn where my Master dy’d, who would make +good what I had affirm’d. Upon this he order’d Paper to be given me; and I +wrote in short to my Landlady at _Paris_, by the Name of a _Valet de +Chambre_, whom I left there when I came away. As she was a Woman of quick +Apprehension, and knew my Hand-Writing, I persuaded myself that she would +easily comprehend the Meaning of it. When my Letter was finish’d, I shew’d +it to the King’s Lieutenant, who read it, and told me, That he would +undertake both for its Delivery, and an Answer to it. In the mean Time he +remanded me back to my Inn, and in Two Hours after, sent to tell me, that +I might pursue my Journey. You will naturally imagine, that I took him at +the first Word. I accordingly walk’d out of _Toul_ on Foot, but I hir’d a +Horse at a Village belonging to the Principality of _Elbœuf_, and went to +_Nancy_, where I had the Precaution to provide myself with a Passport, +which the Innkeeper, where I lay, procur’d me, by the Name of a certain +Merchant of that City. I did not think fit to go to _Strasbourg_, where +perhaps I might have been known; but went to _Haguenau_; from thence to +_Fort Louis_, where I pass’d the _Rhine_; and at last arriv’d at +_Heidelberg_ in the Beginning of the Year 1719. + + * * * * * + +The Palatine Court resided at _Heidelberg_[2], but ’twas not the same +Elector that I had the Honour to mention to you before, for he was dead, +and was succeeded by his Brother Prince _Charles_, who kept a numerous and +magnificent Court, and was the Darling of all his Family. He was so good +to his Domestics, that there are few such to be found among Princes; and +yet without debasing his Rank, of which he understood every Part of its +Dignity, and perfectly knew how to have the Respect paid that was due to +him: Being withal generous, good-natur’d, affable and charitable; he lov’d +People should speak to him with Freedom. He was very regular in his +Conduct, even to a Degree of Devotion, yet in no respect an Enemy to +Pleasures; on the contrary, he often procured them for his Court; and he +was especially fond of Dancing, which he perform’d indeed too well for a +Prince. + +The Elector has had Two Wives, but he has had only one Child, a Daughter, +marry’d to the Hereditary Prince of _Sultzbach_, who is the Elector’s +presumptive Heir. She is a very lovely Princess, tho’ somewhat pitted with +the Small Pox; she is not tall, but perfectly well-shap’d; she is complete +Mistress of every Thing which young Princesses are usually taught; she +dances and sings with a very good Grace, and especially the _Italian_ +Airs, which she plays at the same time to Perfection upon the Harpsichord. +The Prince her Husband was a clever handsome Man, and his Outside was a +sufficient Indication of his Endowments: He had so grave an Air, that one +would be apt to suspect him of a little Austerity, yet this did not render +him a whit the less polite; and, above all Things, he was very civil to +Foreigners. He shew’d an extraordinary Respect to the Elector, who, on his +Part, gave him all the possible Marks of a Tenderness for him. This young +Prince had a Son by this Marriage, who dwelt at _Neubourg_, where he had +been brought up; it being apprehended that the Fatigues of Travelling +would be hurtful to his Health, but, notwithstanding this Precaution, the +young Prince dy’d in 1724. + +The Elector was a very early Riser; as soon as he was up, he spent some +Time in Prayer; then the Great Chamberlain or Grand Master of the Wardrobe +talk’d to him about Affairs of State, or such as were Domestic; when those +Gentlemen were retir’d, the Prince employed himself in reading Dispatches, +or in Writing; after which he dress’d himself: About 11 o’Clock he went +to Mass, accompany’d by the Prince his Son-in-Law, and the Princess his +Daughter: When he held a Council there, ’twas after Mass was over: Upon +other Days he play’d at Billiards till Dinner-time, which held a long +while, and sometimes a little too much was drank at it; which indeed they +could not well help, the Wine there was so delicious. After Dinner was +over, his Electoral Highness went with the Princess his Daughter to her +Apartment, where he stay’d a little while, and then retir’d to his own, +where he caus’d himself to be undress’d, and went to Bed for a few Hours. +About 5 or 6 o’Clock in the Evening he was dress’d, after which he gave +public Audiences, or else apply’d himself to something in his Study. At 7 +o’Clock he went into the Assembly Room, where he found the Princess and +the whole Court; and after having chatted some Time, he sate down to +Picquet, or to a Pair of Tables; but when the Game was over, he retired, +and the Princess went to Supper. + +In the Afternoon, when the Elector was withdrawn, the Princess went into +her Lady of Honour’s Apartment, where there was always a great Assembly, +and often a Concert, in which the Princess sung some _Italian_ Song or +other, together with _Signora Claudia_, one of her Waiting-Women. This +little Concert was made up also of some Musicians selected out of the +Elector’s Band, and is one of the completest that I ever heard. The Prince +of _Sultzbach_ assisted at it sometimes; but he most commonly retir’d to +his Apartment at the same Time that the Elector did to his. + +As these Two Princes shew’d me great Marks of their Goodness, the +Courtiers too, in Imitation of their Masters, were mighty civil to me: I +was invited to the best Houses, and treated every Day with grand Feasts, +and fresh Parties of Pleasure; and in a Word I pass’d the little Time I +stay’d at _Heidelberg_ very pleasantly. I was so charm’d with that Court, +that I had a great Mind to put in for some Employment there; and for that +end I engag’d some Persons, who I thought could do me most Service; but +notwithstanding the Courtiers seem’d so fond of me, I found a Cabal in my +Way, which was powerful enough to hinder me from obtaining my Wish. These +were, to my Misfortune, Persons of very good Credit, who did not care to +see any body in Place, but such, as they knew, would truckle to them. The +Great Chamberlain, to whom I plainly saw I was not acceptable, was one of +those who made the greatest Opposition to my Advancement. ’Tis true, that +I drew his Resentment upon me by my own Rashness and Folly: For one Day, +as I was attending the Elector from the Princess’s Apartment to his own, I +went into a Room which, according to the Custom of the Court, no body was +permitted to enter, except the Great Chamberlain; but this was more than I +then knew, and therefore I went boldly into the Room, when a Harbinger of +the Court came, and, with a very impertinent Air, bad me _turn out_----I +ask’d him, Whether he had his Order for saying so from the Elector? He +said, No; but from the Great Chamberlain: I then made him an Answer in a +Style that surpriz’d him, and bad him tell the Grand Chamberlain something +that I knew he would not be pleas’d with: At the same time I talk’d both +against the Chamberlain and his Emissary in such a manner as gave Vent to +my Spleen, but excluded me from the Service of one of the best Princes in +the World. I took Leave afterwards of the Elector, who bad me Farewel, +made me a considerable Present, and moreover gave me Letters of +Recommendation to _Vienna_, where I intended to solicit some Employment. + +I shall now give you a brief Account of the City and Castle of +_Heidelberg_: The City stands on the Banks of the _Neckar_, with high +Mountains on each Side, and only a narrow Passage between them, from which +however there’s a Prospect of the noblest Plain in _Germany_. In this City +there was formerly a famous University, founded by _Rupert the Ruddy_, +Count Palatine and Duke of _Bavaria_ in 1346. Here was to be seen one of +the finest Libraries in _Europe_, but General _Tilly_ carry’d it off in +1622, and sent it to _Rome_, where it makes a considerable Part of the +_Vatican_ Library. _Lewis_ the Dauphin of _France_, Grandfather of _Lewis_ +XV. made himself Master of _Heidelberg_ by a Capitulation in 1698. +nevertheless, all manner of Disorders were committed in it; a Part of the +Electoral Palace was blown up, the City was burnt, and the very Corpses of +the Electors, which were in the Coffins with the Ornaments of their +Dignity, were dragg’d out of their Graves into the Square: And the +_French_ would undoubtedly have committed greater Cruelties, if the Army +of the Empire had not advanc’d towards _Heidelberg_, of which the +_Germans_ made themselves Masters; and the Governor was prosecuted for +Treachery, and sentenc’d to have his Choice, Whether to die by the Sword, +or to have his Coat of Arms defac’d, his Sword broke, to be kick’d by the +Hangman, and turn’d out of the Army with his Life: But he was so +mean-spirited, as to prefer Infamy to Death, and retir’d to _Hildesheim_, +where he has the Misfortune to be still living. + +Some Time after this, the Marshal _de Lorge_ attack’d _Heidelberg_, but he +could not master it, tho’ the Place was defenceless. A Song was made upon +him, the Burden of which was, _He would have taken_ Heidelberg, _if he had +found the Door open_. There’s no Sign now that _Heidelberg_ was ever +ruin’d; ’tis well rebuilt; and if the present Elector had continued his +Residence in it, would have been one of the finest Towns in _Germany_; but +’twas owing to the Protestants, that the Elector remov’d to _Manheim_. +What gave Occasion to it was this: The Protestants of _Heidelberg_ and the +Catholics have one Church between them, where the Nave of it belongs to +the Protestants, and the Choir to the Catholics. When the present Elector +had fix’d his Residence at _Heidelberg_, he desir’d that this Church, in +which the Electors are interr’d, might be intirely Catholic; and for this +end he made a Proposal to the Protestants, to give up the Nave, and +engag’d that another Church should be built for them. The Inhabitants were +very willing to consent to it, but the Ministers oppos’d it, and +represented to the Citizens, that ’twas of dangerous Consequence to resign +that Church, which was included in the Treaty of _Westphalia_, and in all +the Treaties that had been made with the Princes of _Neubourgh_, on their +Accession to the Electorate; that, after such a Resignation was once made, +they could no longer expect the Protection of the Powers of their own +Communion; and finally, that even the new Church, which was promis’d to be +built for them, might with very great Ease be taken from them. The Elector +having declar’d that he would be obey’d, the Ministers apply’d to the +Protestant Body at the Dyet of the Empire. The Affair made a great Noise; +and the Elector threatened the Inhabitants to abandon them; but they did +not seem to be much concern’d at it, because they imagin’d, that if the +Court went, the Regency and the Courts of Justice would remain with them, +as they did in the Time of the late Elector. Nevertheless they were out in +their Calculation, and the Elector, justly incens’d at the Disrespect of +his Subjects, abandon’d them, and transfer’d his Court and all the +Tribunals to _Manheim_; so that the Citizens, whose sole Dependance was on +the Court, or the Officers of those Tribunals, are now very poor. They +were quickly sensible of the Error they had committed, and went and threw +themselves at the Elector’s Feet; but the Prince gave no Ear to them, and +has caus’d the City and Castle of _Manheim_ to be rebuilt. + +The Castle of _Heidelberg_ to this Day shews the Marks of the Disorder +committed there by the _French_; for there’s a great Part of it in Ruins; +and out of Four considerable Mansions, of which it consisted, there was +only one that was not damag’d. That which remains of the Palace is in a +Stile of Architecture, which I should be at a Loss to explain; ’tis +neither Gothic nor Modern, but a _Rhapsody_ of all the Orders heap’d one +upon another, without Fancy or Judgment; as if the Architect who conducted +the Work, had only design’d a Building of great Expence, without troubling +himself whether it was done well or ill. This Palace stands upon a very +high Hill, with a magnificent Terrass towards the Town, from whence +there’s a Prospect of the Plain and of the Country too for several +Leagues. The Inside of the Palace is scarce more regular than the +Outside. The Elector’s Apartment consists of a long Suite of Rooms, +without Beauty or Proportion. Nor is there any thing agreeable in the +whole but its Situation, which is owing to the Prospect that it commands. +The other Apartments are very small, and of pretty difficult Access, +because of a great many little Steps that lead up and down to them. + +In the Vaults of this Palace there’s the Tun, so famous for its enormous +Size; ’tis said to contain 26,250 Gallons _Paris_ Measure. The Electors +have had frequent Carousals on the Platform which is over it. I own to +you, that I can’t comprehend what Pleasure there can be in Tippling-Bouts +of this Kind, at a Place where one cannot be at Ease; since a Man need not +be very tall, for his Head to touch the Roof of the Vault, which besides +is very dark. + +As I was preparing to set out for _Vienna_ where I intended, as I said, to +sollicit Employment, I receiv’d a Letter from _Paris_, with Advice that +the Storm I so much dreaded was dispers’d, and that all my Fears were ill +grounded, the Regent having no manner of Suspicion of me, but on the +contrary, more inclin’d than ever to shew me the Effects of his +Protection; thereupon I was earnestly exhorted to return to _Paris_, which +Advice coming from a good Hand, I made no Scruple to comply with it. + + * * * * * + +At my Arrival there I went to the Royal Palace as before: The Regent gave +me a very good Reception, and _Madame_ made me so welcome, that it +confirm’d my Hopes, that I should at length obtain something at the Court +of _France_. I found People very much divided about the War which had been +just declar’d against _Spain_: The _French_ were indeed for a War, but +they were sorry to make it against a Prince who was born among them, and +for whose Establishment they had expended so many Millions, and so much +Blood. The Regent was even at a Loss to find any one to command the Army, +because several had excus’d themselves. Only the Marshal _de Berwic_, the +Natural Son of _James_ II. King of _England_, prefer’d the Service of the +Regency to the old Obligations he had to the King of _Spain_. His Catholic +Majesty, whose Forces this Duke had commanded, had heap’d Favours upon +him; he had not only made him and his Son Grandees of _Spain_, but had +moreover granted to both of ’em the Golden Fleece, and the Duchy of +_Liria_ for his Son and his Posterity. Nevertheless, he accepted of the +Command with Pleasure, and set out for _Spain_. + +The Regent having engag’d the Prince of _Conti_ to take upon him the +Command of the Cavalry, order’d him 100,000 Crowns for his Equipage, and +granted him 60,000 Livres a Month to keep an open Table; besides which, +his Horses were to be kept at the King’s Expence. When his Royal Highness +had appointed these Two Generals, he was not very much at a Loss for +subaltern Officers: To encourage them to serve with the more Zeal, there +was a great Promotion, consisting of 6 Lieutenant-Generals, 72 +Major-Generals, and 196 Brigadiers. The Regent also gave Pensions to above +Threescore Officers, who repair’d to the Marshal _de Berwic_ in _Navarre_, +where the Campaign was open’d by the Siege of _Fontarabia_. At the same +Time the Regent caus’d a Manifesto to be publish’d, which was couch’d in +Terms full of Regard to the King of _Spain_, Cardinal _Alberoni_ being +reproach’d for every Thing that was blameworthy in that Prince’s Conduct; +and accus’d of being the Author of the War between the Two Crowns, and of +having hinder’d the King his Master from accepting the Treaty of the +Quadruple Alliance, a Treaty which had not been concluded, said the +Regent, but for the Welfare of _Europe_, and particularly of _France_ and +_Spain_. His Royal Highness protested, that the War was only made to +induce the King of _Spain_ to a Peace; and affirm’d, That _France_ did not +mean to make any Conquest upon his Dominions; and that if she was +compell’d to do it, she should be always ready to restore such Conquests +at the Peace. + +Cardinal _Alberoni_ dispers’d several Pieces in the Name of his Master, by +which he invited the _French_ Soldiers to take the Part of his Catholic +Majesty; and to succeed the better in this Design, he engag’d the King of +_Spain_ to head his Army, hoping, that upon his very first Appearance, one +Half of the Army of _France_ would desert to his Standard. The Cardinal +being full of Notions so chimerical and so injurious to Officers and +Troops, as incapable of Cowardice as of Treachery; he oblig’d the +_Chevalier de S----_ who had been a Colonel in _France_, but by +Misfortunes was forc’d to go to _Spain_, to write to some of the chief +Commanders, and solicit them to come over with their Regiments to the +_Spanish_ Service. The _Chevalier_, who built Hopes of a considerable +Fortune upon the Success of this Project, wrote to the Lieutenant-Colonel +of _Normandy_, and sent the Letter to him by an Officer, who was indeed a +Gentleman, but at that Time committed an Action unworthy of that +Character. This Officer came to the _French_ Army, and gave the Letter to +the Person it was directed to, who carrying it to the Marshal _de +Berwic_, he caus’d the unfortunate Courier to be arrested, and hang’d up +in Two Hours after. The Cardinal was very much mortify’d by having +miscarry’d in this Attempt, not considering that the same was +impracticable, by reason the Fidelity of the _French Officers_ was never +to be corrupted; but it was not so at that Time with the _Soldiers_, of +whom a great Number deserted to the _Spanish_ Army. Persons of Credit, who +at that Time saw Cardinal _Alberoni_ in private, assur’d me, that Minister +was so fully persuaded that whole Regiments at a Time would come over to +the _Spanish_ Service; that when he was told 50 or 100 Deserters, more or +less, were newly come; _What signifies that_, said he? _His Majesty wants +to see Colours and Standards arrive, and not a Handful of Men._ The +Cardinal had a great many Fortune-hunters about him, who were continually +telling him, that intire Battalions were just coming over; and by the +Favour of such Predictions, which never came to any Thing, they got out of +him what they wanted, for no other Consideration but a sorry improbable +Scheme, and which tended even sometimes to deceive the Minister and betray +him. One may guess at the Character of those Gentlemen by one _F----_, who +had been a Reformado-Colonel in _France_, but being press’d hard by +merciless Creditors, could find no other Means to escape from their ill +Humour, than by taking Shelter under Cardinal _Alberoni_. This _F----_ was +a terrible Rattle, and could rodomontade better than any body. The +Minister made him a Brigadier, and withal gave him a Gratuity of 100 +Pistoles; but our Spark not thinking this sufficient, wanted forsooth to +be a Major-General, and teiz’d the Cardinal for it to such a Degree, that +to get rid of such an importunate Solicitor, his Eminency was oblig’d to +promise him, that it should not be long before he should be prefer’d. My +Gentleman had no Time to wait, and renew’d his Solicitations; but being +put off, he was quite out of Patience, and at last declar’d, that he would +serve no longer if he was not made a Major-General. His Eminence grew +angry, so that _F----_ thought it was proper to submit, or at least to +assume a submissive Air. Mean while he study’d Revenge, and imagin’d the +only way to make his Fortune in _France_ would be, to seize the Cardinal, +and run away with him to the Regent. The Thing that remain’d to be +consider’d was, what Methods he should take to succeed; and ’tis even +said, that he had laid his Plot so well, that had it not been for the +Treachery of one of the Conspirators who discover’d the whole Mystery, the +same would have succeeded. The Cardinal caus’d _F----_ to be arrested, and +sent Prisoner to _Pampeluna_, and from thence to the Castle of _Segovia_, +where he was try’d, and would infallibly have been beheaded, but Cardinal +_Alberoni_ happen’d to be disgrac’d at the same Time, as I shall have the +Honour to tell you anon. + +While these Trifles pass’d in the _Spanish_ Army, the _French_ went on +furiously to Action. _Fontarabia_ was closely besieg’d, upon which the +King and Queen made as if they would relieve it; but while they were +consulting about it, the Marshal _de Berwic_ oblig’d it to capitulate. +This Conquest, tho’ to the Advantage of _France_, did not abate one Jot of +that Aversion which the _French_ had to the War. The People contributed to +it not without Reluctance; nevertheless it was the Regent’s Interest to +continue it; and as he perceiv’d they were already so over-burden’d with +Taxes, that ’twas in vain to think of creating new ones, he contriv’d new +Methods to fill the Treasury. He obtain’d an Arret of Council for making a +considerable Number of Bank Bills, those which had been made before having +been soon snatch’d up. Then the Council pass’d another Arret, for +diminishing the Value of the Species. The Bustle this Arret occasion’d at +_Paris_ is not to be imagin’d; every body was glad to part with their +Cash, upon which they apprehended there would be a Loss, and they hurry’d +to receive Paper in Exchange, upon the Promise which the Council had made, +that the Value of the Bills should be fix’d, so as never to rise nor fall. +Nevertheless, it was not long before the People seriously reflected upon +the Invalidity of the Matter, into which their Gold and Silver was +transform’d, and the Hurry to the Bank abated. But the Regent soon +contriv’d a way to bring in the little Cash that remain’d in private +Hands; for he caus’d an Arret of Council to pass, which forbad any one’s +having more than 500 Livres about him, upon the Penalty of a great Fine. +In Pursuance of this Arret, People began again to change their Species for +Bank Bills, which were in Truth more commodious than Cash, because People +might then carry the Value of several Millions about them, without +sweating under the Load. This was a rare way to thrive, when a Man carry’d +his whole Estate thus in his Pocket! + +By this Means did the Duke Regent provide for the immense Charges of the +War with _Spain_, which was carry’d on with Vigour; and soon after the +taking of _Fontarabia_, the _French_ Army laid Siege to _St. Sebastian_, +which held but Twenty-five Days, when both the Town and Castle +surrender’d. + +As long as the War continued with Success in _Spain_ I never left +soliciting at the Royal Palace, but always in vain. I spent most of my +Time in the Regent’s Antichamber, and now-and-then went for Recreation to +the House of _Madame de R----_, whom I have not had the Honour of +mentioning to you for a good while, but my Passion was now grown cool, so +that all those Visits were but a melancholy Relief in the Situation that I +then stood in. My Friends made me reflect seriously on the small Hopes I +ought to entertain of succeeding at the Court of _France_. The _Abbe de +Asfeld_ perceiving the Anxiety I was under, took the Advantage of it to +drive me, as I may term it, from a Place where I lost my Time, and spent +the little Money I had to no Purpose; therefore I left _Paris_ once more, +and travelled by the Way of _Metz_, to avoid the troublesome Questions of +the King’s Lieutenant at _Toul_. + + * * * * * + +I pass’d thro’ St. MENEHOULT, which is a Town in _Champagne_, built in a +Morass, between Two Eminencies. A little after I was there, it had the +Misfortune to be burnt. I was told, that the Jews of _Metz_ offer’d to +rebuild it intirely, on condition they might be permitted to have a +Synagogue there. + + * * * * * + +From _St. Menehoult_ I went to VERDUN, an Episcopal City, whose Bishops +take the Titles of Counts of _Verdun_, and Princes of the Holy Empire. +This Diocese makes Part of the Three Bishopricks yielded to _France_ by +_Lorrain_. The Cathedral is dedicated to our Lady. In this Church there’s +a Well, which is preserv’d there for a Supply of Water in case of Fire, +because the Place being on a very high Ground, it would be difficult to +bring Water to it. + + * * * * * + +From _Verdun_ I went to METZ, where I made some Stay. This is a very large +Town, at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Seille_. It was heretofore +the Capital of _Austrasia_, and afterwards reckon’d as an imperial City +till 1552, that the Constable of _Montmorency_ made a Conquest of it for +_Henry_ II. King of _France_. The Emperor _Charles_ V. try’d in vain to +retake it, when the Duke of _Guise_, who commanded in the Place, acquir’d +great Reputation in the Defence of it, and oblig’d him to raise the Siege, +at which the Emperor was so mortify’d, that he resign’d his Dominions, and +retir’d to a Cloyster. _Metz_, _Toul_ and _Verdun_ were confirm’d to +_France_ in 1559, by the Treaty of _Chateau-Cambresis_, and this Cession +was afterwards confirm’d by the Peace of _Munster_ in 1648. + +The Cathedral of _Metz_, which is dedicated to St. _Stephen_, is a Church +of greater Note for its Antiquity than for its Beauty. The most remarkable +Thing in it is its baptismal Font, which is of one intire Piece of +_Porphyry_ about 10 Foot in Length. + +There is very good Company at _Metz_, and I should have been glad to have +stay’d there longer, if my private Affairs would have permitted it. There +is a Parliament, which consists of a good Number of Men of Quality, who +are all very rich. Besides, here is always a strong Garison, and several +Persons of easy Fortunes, who commonly spend the Winter here. When I was +here, _M. de Saillant_ was the commanding Officer. He liv’d with +Splendor, and I commonly din’d with him, and supp’d with the Intendant of +the Province, who was then _M. de Celi_ of the _Harlay_ Family, and was +very much esteem’d. + + * * * * * + +When I set out from _Metz_, I struck into the Road for _Germany_, and went +to SPIRES. This Town may be consider’d as a Monument of the Ravage of War, +there being a great many Ruins to be seen in it, which are the Remains of +the Houses burnt by the _French_, in the War they made for the Destruction +of the Palatinate. It was formerly the Seat of the Imperial Chamber, which +after ’twas ruin’d, was transfer’d to _Wetzlar_. _Spires_ is the See of a +Bishop Suffragan to the Bishop of _Mentz_. + + * * * * * + +I pass’d the _Rhine_ at _Spires_, over a Bridge of Boats, and arrived in a +few Hours at _Heidelberg_, from whence I went to _Stutgard_, and so to +ULM.[3] This is one of the most considerable Cities in _Germany_, and has +magnificent Structures both sacred and prophane, and great Squares adorn’d +with Fountains. Our Lady’s, which is the most considerable of all the +Churches, belongs to the Lutherans, who are the Magistrates of the City; +but the Roman Catholics are allow’d the free Exercise of their Religion +here. This City was formerly but a Village, which _Charlemain_ granted to +the Abbey of _Reichenau_. The Inhabitants of _Ulm_ redeem’d their Liberty +on the Payment of a considerable Sum, after which they got their Town made +an Imperial City, and at last it became the Capital of _Swabia_. + +_Ulm_ is very well fortify’d; it maintains a stout Garison, and its +Ramparts are furnish’d with good Cannon; nevertheless, the Elector of +_Bavaria_ took it with Ease in the Beginning of the late War, when that +Prince declar’d for his Nephew the King of _Spain_, tho’ ’tis said, his +Electoral Highness had a Correspondence at the same time in the Town. But +the Battle of _Hochstet_ help’d to restore it to its Liberty, and +notwithstanding the Menaces of the _Marshal de Villars_, it receiv’d an +Imperial Garison. + + * * * * * + +From _Ulm_ I went to AUGSBOURG[4], a very ancient City, where a _Roman_ +Colony was planted by the Emperor _Augustus_, from whom it had the Latin +Name _Augusta_. It has from time to time undergone several Revolutions: In +1518 _Luther_ came hither to give a public Account of his Doctrine; and in +1530, _Charles_ V. summon’d the Dyet of the Empire hither, which Dyet was +famous for the noted _Confession_ of _Augsbourg_, that the Protestants +presented to the Emperor. In another Dyet held in 1548, the same _Charles_ +V. propos’d that Formulary call’d the _Interim_, with regard to the +Communion in both Kinds, and the Marriage of Priests: This Formulary has +done irreparable Injury to the Catholic Religion. + +_Augsbourg_ had a very great Share in the Civil Wars between our +Ancestors, on account of Religion. During that Period, the Protestants +seiz’d the City, and turn’d out the Bishop and Clergy; but _Charles_ V. +having retaken it, re-establish’d the _Romish_ Religion in it, and alter’d +the whole Government, which continued in that State till the Beginning of +_April_ 1552, when the Protestants took it again, and restor’d what the +Emperor had destroy’d; and at length a Peace was concluded at _Augsbourg_; +but the City did not long enjoy the Sweets of it, and Violences were soon +committed on both Sides. The famous _Gustavus Adolphus_, King of _Sweden_, +came to the Aid of the Protestants. He arriv’d at _Augsbourg_ in 1632. The +Inhabitants paid him extraordinary Honours, which was very provoking to +the Catholic Princes, and to the Duke of _Bavaria_, who Two Years after +punish’d them for it. This Prince having declared himself the Protector of +the ancient Religion, besieg’d _Augsbourg_, and reduc’d the Citizens to +such Extremity, that they eat Rats, Cats, and even human Flesh. It was +settled at the Peace of _Westphalia_, that the Catholics and Lutherans +should tolerate one another, which was afterwards punctually observ’d. +Nevertheless, this City was again molested by the Elector of _Bavaria_ in +the last War, when he made himself Master of it, but his Troops abandon’d +it immediately after the Battle of _Hochstet_. After the Peace of +_Westphalia_, the Emperor _Leopold_ summon’d the Dyet of the Empire to +_Augsbourg_ in 1690, and there he caus’d himself to be crown’d, and his +Son _Joseph_ to be elected King of the _Romans_. + +The assembling of the Dyets, and the flourishing Trade at _Augsbourg_, +have render’d it one of the most magnificent Cities in _Germany_. Its +Squares are large, its Streets spacious, and its Fountains very beautiful. +The Town-House is one of the finest Buildings that I have seen. ’Tis a +vast square Edifice, well built of Free-Stone. The Porch is all of Marble. +Almost all the Rooms are wainscotted and ceil’d with very fine Timber. +There’s a Hall 110 Feet long, 58 broad, and 52 Feet in Height, the +Pavement of which is Marble, and its Walls adorn’d with Paintings, +intermix’d with Emblems and Devices relating to the Government. The +Ceiling, which exceeds all the rest for its Beauty, has Compartments, the +Squares and Pannels whereof are inrich’d with Sculptures, very finely +gilt, and full of beautiful Pictures and other Ornaments. The Cathedral is +large and spacious, with a most remarkable great Gate, all of Brass, over +which there are several Scripture Passages, represented in _Basso-Relievo_ +of very nice Workmanship. The Episcopal Palace has nothing extraordinary. +The present Bishop is of the Family of _Newbourg_, and Brother to the +Elector of _Triers_, and the Elector Palatine. The Dignity of Prince of +the Empire is annex’d to that of Bishop of _Augsbourg_, in the same manner +as it is to all the Bishopricks of _Germany_. He is chose by the Chapter, +which is compos’d of Canons, who are noble by Sixteen Descents. The +Bishop’s Sovereignty extends over almost all the Territory of _Augsbourg_. + + * * * * * + +I am now going to give you an Account of one of the most splendid Courts +in all _Germany_, I mean that of _Bavaria_, which I had the Honour to see +at MUNICH, whither I went at my Departure from _Augsbourg_.[5]_Munich_, +which is the Capital of _Bavaria_, stands upon the River _Iser_, that +falls into the _Danube_, for which Reason the Neighbourhood is almost all +Meadow Land. The Town is not large, but very well built, so that I have +scarce seen any that makes so gay an Appearance. _Munich_ contains several +stately Buildings, both sacred and profane. Among the former, the Two +finest, that I took Notice of, are, our Lady’s Church, and that of the +Jesuits. + +In our Lady’s Church there’s a magnificent Tomb of the Emperor _Lewis_ IV. +adorn’d with Figures of Marble and Brass. There’s one Thing remarkable in +this Church, and that is, at the Entrance of the great Gate there’s a +particular Place, from whence, as one stands, we observe such a Regularity +in the Disposition of the Pillars which support the Roof, that there is +not a Window to be perceiv’d in it, tho’ there are a great many. + +The Jesuits Church is also extremely magnificent. It consists intirely of +one Nave, very lofty and spacious, the Roof of which is very noble, and +adorn’d all over with Sculpture. The Vestry contains a great deal of +Wealth in Relics, and in Vessels of Gold and Silver. + +Their College is as magnificent as their Church, there can be nothing +finer; and I could not help thinking the Outside of it exceeded the +Electoral Palace. In the Inside there are great Rooms, which serve as +Classes for the Scholars that come to study with them. + +The Elector’s Palace deserves a diligent View, for it may compare with the +Palaces of the most powerful Sovereigns; and I think that, excepting the +Palace of the _Tuileries_, there’s none so big. Yet for all this it has +one Defect, common to the Palaces of all Sovereigns, it having been built +at several Times, and being by Consequence irregular. The first Time I saw +it, I own to you that I was disgusted at this Irregularity; and that it +fell vastly short of the Idea I had conceiv’d of the Building from what I +had read of it in the Relations publish’d by Travellers. + +Of all the Parts of the Electoral Palace, there’s not one that is more +magnificent than that which is commonly call’d the _Emperor’s Apartment_: +The principal Room in it is a Hall, which is 118 Feet long, and 52 broad, +and may be reckon’d a complete Piece of Work; ’tis adorn’d with fine +Paintings, representing sacred and profane History, which are rang’d in +exact Order, one over-against the other; and under each of the historical +Passages there are _Latin_ Verses explaining the Subject: The +Chimney-piece is as magnificent as the rest of the Apartment; on the Top +of it there’s the Statue of _Porphyry_, of admirable Workmanship, +representing _Virtue_, holding a Spear in her Right Hand, and a Branch of +gilt Palm in her Left. The Ceiling is adorn’d with gilt Compartments, and +with Paintings of a noble Design. + +Going out of the great Hall, we pass thro’ a very spacious Antichamber +into the Hall of Audience, which is very much ornamented, as is all the +rest. ’Tis there that the Electors give Audience to the foreign Ministers, +and there are Eight great Compartments, shewing the different manners +after which the foreign Princes give Audience to Ambassadors. There are +other Pictures representing the Histories of several Judgments pass’d by +Sovereigns, that have administer’d Justice in Person; and these Pictures +are accompany’d with Hieroglyphics, Emblems and Devices suitable to the +Subject. + +The long Gallery is very magnificent, both for its Extent and for the +Pieces it contains. ’Tis adorn’d with _Basso Relievo’s_ of a noble Design, +and with costly Pictures, among which are the Effigies and Names of 36 +Princes, the Predecessors of the present Elector. There are also very fine +Maps of the several Provinces, Cities and Appendages of his Electoral +Highness’s Dominions. There’s another Gallery not quite so big indeed, but +as finely adorn’d, and especially with very large Pictures, which +represent the Histories of the Princes and Princesses of the Family of +_Bavaria_. The Stair-case which leads to the grand Apartment I just now +mention’d, is answerable to all the rest in Magnificence, there being +nothing to be seen all about it but marble and Gold. + +The Apartment which the Elector commonly resides in is very spacious, but +irregular. I thought the Chambers and Closets a little too dark. The whole +is adorn’d with rich Ceilings and magnificent Tapestries. The Electoress’s +Apartment communicates with the Elector’s by a private Gallery. All the +Princes and Princesses are equally well lodg’d, tho’ the Chambers of the +Apartments are a little too small. + +The great Chapel is very fine, and would be much more so, if it was more +lightsome. The Electoress has one, which joins to her Apartment, but is +not near so large as the former, and has the same Fault; tho’ otherwise +’tis a notable Piece of Building, and contains extraordinary Wealth. + +The Garden of the Electoral Palace is not of the modern Taste. Round the +one half of it there’s a grand Piazza, adorn’d with Pictures, representing +the several Histories of the Princes of the _Bavarian_ Family, which +Pictures, I am told, were the Model for the Hangings in the Elector’s +Wardrobe. At the End of this Piazza there’s a very fine House, the lower +Parts of which serve as a Greenhouse for the Orange Trees. In the upper +Part there are very commodious Apartments; where, in the Summertime, the +Elector has a Drawing-Room. Near this Orangery there’s a Sort of Menagery, +in which are kept Lyons and other wild Beasts. + +The same Piazza leads also to the Riding-House, which is one of the finest +I ever saw. ’Tis 366 Feet in Length, and 76 in Breadth. It has 80 great +Windows, and all round within there runs a fine Corridor or Gallery to +hold the Spectators, when there are any Carrousels or Tournaments. This +Corridor is parted by the Elector’s Box, which is big enough to contain +all the Electoral Family, and adorn’d with very rich Sculptures. The +Gallery of the Palace, which reaches to the grand Piazza of the Garden, +leads also to the Opera Room, which is very large, and very high. The +Stage is answerable to the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Room, and the +Decorations are superb, and very numerous. As the Electoral Prince is very +fond of Music, he prefers the Opera to any other Performance, and gives +Orders himself for what may serve to render it most splendid. You will +judge that no Cost is spar’d, the Decorations, Machines, Habits and every +Thing being equally noble, and well contriv’d. + +Upon the Days that any Feast is celebrated at Court, as Birth-days and the +like, when there’s an Opera, at the Overture there descends from the Top +of the Stage a Lustre of extraordinary Grandeur and Structure, which rises +up again immediately after the first Act; a Custom, for which I never +could yet hear of any good Reason. This Lustre surprizes the more, because +it comes unexpected. The Ceiling opens to let it down, as well as to take +it up again. + +’Tis said, that when the Great _Gustavus Adolphus_, King of _Sweden_, made +his victorious Entry at _Munich_, one of that great Monarch’s Generals +advis’d him to burn the Palace of the Electors, but he refus’d to do it, +in which he was Greater than the Great _Alexander_, who reduc’d the +superb Palace of _Darius_ to a Heap of Ashes. The only Thing that made the +_Swedish_ Monarch uneasy was, that he could not carry to _Sweden_ the fine +Chimney-piece in the great Hall, that I mention’d to you. + +I will next treat of the Princes that compose the August Family of +_Bavaria_, which is one of the most Illustrious in _Europe_. The Elector’s +Name was _Maximilian Emanuel Mary_: No Man could have a grander Air, or a +better Shape than this Prince had; and with those external Qualities, he +had others, without which the former are of little or no Value. He was +generous, affable, compassionate, and in Consequence ador’d by his +Subjects: He knew how to support his Dignity with Grandeur: His Expence +was great, but well-judg’d: He marry’d to his first Wife the Archduchess, +Daughter of the Emperor _Leopold_, by whom he had a Son, who was snatch’d +from him by Death, when the young Prince was become Heir to one of the +chief Crowns in the World, after the Death of _Charles_ II. King of +_Spain_, by Right of Succession from his Grandmother, who was the Daughter +of _Philip_ IV. + +After the Death of the Electoress, the Elector marry’d a Princess of +_Poland_, _viz. Theresa Cunegonda Sobieski_, Daughter to King _John +Sobieski_. This Princess lives so retir’d, that, excepting her own Family, +she sees no body but Two or Three Ladies and her Confessor. She resides +most commonly at _Taco_, a Seat given her by the Elector. When the +Princess is at _Munich_, she employs herself in Works of Charity, one +while visiting sick Women, at other Times the several Convents; and in +these Visits she never fails to leave Marks of her Bounty. + +The Elector has had several Children by her: The First is the Electoral +Prince, whose Name is _Albert Cajetan_: This Prince gave Proof in the War +in _Hungary_, and at the Siege of _Belgrade_, that he would be the Heir of +the great Qualities of the Elector his Father, as well as of his +Dominions: He acquir’d a high Reputation at _Vienna_, and every body was +charm’d with the grand Presence and Talents of this Prince, whose +Deportment to all that came to him could not be exceeded for Civility. He +talk’d _Latin_, _French_ and _Italian_ with as much Ease as his native +Language. + +The Duke _Ferdinand_ is the Elector’s Second Son, tho’ he was first +marry’d to a Princess of _Neubourg_, a Niece of the Elector Palatine. This +Duke is the handsomest of the Elector’s Sons; he is perfectly well-shap’d, +and has the finest Head of Hair that can be seen; in short, he is a very +amiable Prince: He loves Pleasure, but is not a Slave to it; his favourite +Sport is Hunting, which he follows commonly with the Princes his Brothers. + +Duke _Clement_ is the Elector’s Third Son, and he who has hitherto been +Fortune’s greatest Favourite. When I went to _Munich_, this Prince had +been newly elected Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_, in the Room of the +Duke his Brother, who dy’d at _Rome_ a little after his Election to the +Bishoprick. Duke _Clement_ was already Bishop of _Ratisbon_, when he was +chose Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_; but he resign’d _Ratisbon_ to +Duke _Theodore_, the last of the _Bavarian_ Princes. These Four Princes, +and a Princess, who turn’d Nun at the Time that I was at _Munich_, are the +Elector’s whole Family, and the only Princes of the House of _Bavaria_. + +You know, _Madame_, that the Electoral Dignity pass’d to this Family after +the Disgrace of _Frederic_ Elector Palatine, King of _Bohemia_, who having +been put under the Ban of the Empire, was turn’d out of the _Upper +Palatinate_, which was given to the _Bavarian_ Family, as a Reward for the +Attachment they had shewn to the House of _Austria_, and for the Expences +they were at in the War. At the Treaty of _Westphalia_ this Grant was +confirm’d to the _Bavarian_ Family, and the Son of the unfortunate +_Frederic_ recover’d his Dignity of Elector, with this Difference, that +whereas before he was the first Elector, he was now become the last. The +Dukes of _Bavaria_ remain’d in Possession of the _Upper Palatinate_, and +of the Dignity of first Elector. There’s none of ’em all that came up to +the Elector _Maximilian Emanuel_, and never was the Court of _Munich_ so +splendid and numerous, as in his Time: The Ceremonial observ’d there is +very much the same with that of the Imperial Court. + +As to the Amusements of the Court of _Bavaria_, they pass’d their Time +much after this manner: The Elector, who was an early Riser, went to Mass +about 10 o’Clock, and afterwards held a Council, if it happen’d to be +Council-Day, or otherwise his Electoral Highness play’d at Passage till +Dinner-time. Then he return’d to his own Apartment, where he din’d +privately, and during that Time, no body was admitted, except the Princes, +the Officers in Waiting, and the Chamberlains. The Princes also din’d by +themselves, tho’ they often admitted Gentlemen to eat with them. The +Electoress, the Princess and the Duchess had also their separate Tables +serv’d by the Elector’s Officers, which occasion’d an amazing Expence, as +did also the Hunting Equipages; for the Elector went one Way, the +Electoral Prince another, and Duke _Ferdinand_ another, so that there were +near 400 Horses running here and there every Day. When they return’d from +the Chace, the Princes went and pass’d the Evening with the Duchess, where +they found a great Assembly of Ladies; the Elector also went thither +sometimes, and play’d at Pharao, or some other Game. Towards Supper-time +he retired to his Apartment, where he supp’d with the Ladies. The Princes +went and supp’d with the Electoral Prince, and the Duchess supp’d at her +own House with the Gentlemen and Ladies. + +On the Drawing-Room Days (which were Three Times a Week) Things were +order’d otherwise. The Ladies went to the Electoress’s Apartment, or to +the Orangery, according to the Place where the Drawing-Room was appointed. +When it was kept at the Electoress’s Apartment, the Ladies went thither in +the Court Dress, whereas at the Orangery they might appear in a Mantua. +The Elector and the Princes were also there: His Electoral Highness +convers’d awhile with the Ladies; after which they sat down to Play, and +every one chose what Game or Partner they lik’d best. When the Play was +over, the Company went into another Room, where there was a great Table +well serv’d, at which, after the Elector, the Princes and the Ladies had +taken their Places, if there was Room, they admitted Gentlemen to sit down +with them, either Foreigners, or even such as were in the Elector’s +Service. At this Table no Rank was observ’d, and the very Princes sat down +where they could get Places. + +When the Court was at _Nymphenbourg_, the Elector’s Pleasure-house, the +Diversions were much the same as at the Orangery, except that they took +the Air more; and that the Ladies might enjoy this Pleasure to greater +Perfection, there was always a Number of Calashes, each drawn by a Pair of +Horses, which carry’d Two Ladies, and was drove by some Gentleman, while +One or Two others stood behind them. Those who prefer’d taking the Air by +Water, might easily be accommodated, there being for that Purpose upon the +Canal Gondolas and Gondoliers after the _Venetian_ manner, which were +always ready for Hire. + +On _Sundays_, Holidays and Days of Rejoicing, the Elector din’d in public, +with the Princes and Princesses of his Family, during which the +Chamberlains waited, and at Night there was a Concert. The Ladies in their +Court Dress met in the Apartment of the Electoress or the Duchess, and +accompany’d those Princesses to the Opera, after which they return’d to +the same Apartment; where, till Supper-time, they play’d; upon those Days +the Ladies din’d with the Elector: Sometimes too, they carry’d Services +for Three or Four Persons, and laid them upon the Gaming Tables, which was +very convenient for those who were not willing to separate Company: After +Supper there was commonly a Ball. + +During the Summer, the Elector never fail’d to repair every _Thursday_ +Evening to the Orangery, to hold a Drawing-Room, after which he went and +lay at _Nymphenbourg_, from whence he return’d upon _Saturdays_, to hold +Councils on _Sundays_ in the Morning; and in the Afternoon he went to some +Pleasure-house. + +This, which was the common Life at Court, was very often diversify’d, by +Parties for Hunting, Fishing, or other Pleasures. The Elector himself gave +Direction for all the Feasts he made, and I believe it would have been +difficult to have found any body that understood the Matter so well; every +Thing being conducted with such charming Delicacy and Regularity, that I +own to you, _Madame_, I thought myself in some enchanted Island. What +contributed to render the Court of _Munich_ yet more splendid, was, the +Presence of the Count _de Charolois_, a Prince of the Blood of _France_, +who made some Stay here at his Return from the War in _Hungary_[6]. That +young Prince being spurr’d on by Glory, thought he could not better +signalize his Valour, than by bearing Arms against the Infidels, with whom +the Emperor had just declared War; but as he plainly foresaw, it would be +difficult for him to obtain Leave from his Mother and the Regent to go out +of the Kingdom, he resolv’d to get away without speaking a Word of it to +any body but Two Persons that he carry’d along with him. The Day that he +put this Project in Execution, he set out early in the Morning, on +Pretence of going a Hunting. He travell’d Seven Post Stages without +Baiting, with the Horses of the Duke his Brother, and he was got as far as +the _Austrian Netherlands_, when they thought at _Chantilly_ he was but in +the Forest. He went to _Liege_, and from thence to _Bon_, but always with +an Equipage that did not denote his Quality. From _Bon_ he proceeded thro’ +_Munich_ to _Vienna_; from whence without visiting either the Emperor or +Empress he repair’d to _Belgrade_, which was then besieg’d by Prince +_Eugene_ of _Savoy_. He distinguish’d himself greatly in this Campaign, +and gave Demonstration that he was worthy of his Illustrious Blood. After +the Reduction of _Belgrade_, he went to _Vienna_, where he stay’d some +time, and then travell’d to _Italy_, from whence he return’d to _Munich_. +The Elector, who had been perfectly well receiv’d by the Duchess, who was +the young Count’s Mother, took a Pleasure to shew his Gratitude to the +Prince her Son. He therefore lodg’d him at the Castle, and defray’d his +and his Attendants Charges all the Time that he stay’d at _Munich_; he +provided a Table for him in his Apartment for Twelve People; and when he +din’d with the Elector, which he never did but with Ladies in Company; and +when they were to go out a Hunting, his Gentlemen had a Table allow’d +them, which was spread for Eight; but some Difficulties in the Point of +Rank prevented the Count from dining in public with the Elector and the +Princes. His Electoral Highness gave him a certain Number of Officers, +Pages and Footmen to wait on him, and Care was taken to chuse such only to +attend him as talk’d _French_; but he soon acquainted himself with the +_German_ Language to such a Degree, that the Country-People understood him +better than they did me. Of this I had Experience one Day as I went a +Hunting with him, when he bad me ask something of a Peasant, who I saw by +his Looks did not know what I meant; but the Count accosted him with the +same Demand, and the Peasant understood him immediately, by reason of the +_Bavarian_ Accent, in which that Prince express’d himself happily: He +return’d to _Chantilly_ the 1st of _May_ 1720. + +Three Quarters of a League from _Munich_ is the stately Palace of +NYMPHENBOURG[7], to which I have had the Honour to acquaint you the Court +repaired very often. ’Tis impossible for a Place to be more charming; the +Gardens especially are very beautiful: A grand Avenue leads to +_Nymphenbourg_, which runs from _Munich_ to the Iron Gates of the Palace. +In the Front of this Palace, next to the Court, there are Three Pavilions, +which are connected by Two Apartments for Lodgings. The middlemost +Pavilion, which is larger than the other Two, is square, and contains a +great Hall, finely adorn’d with Architecture, and an Apartment on each +Side. The Two Side Pavilions are terminated by Two large Pavilions, that +run further out, and form Two Wings. On the Side next to the Court there +are Steps, by which there is an Ascent up to the Hall; and on the opposite +Side there are others, which lead down to the Garden. From the Steps on +the Court-side is a Prospect of a large Canal, lin’d on each Side with a +Row of Elms, which is separated from the Court by a Grate. + +As to the Apartments, they are all of the utmost Magnificence, but the +only one that I shall speak of now is the Elector’s. The first Room at the +Entrance is very fine, considering its Extent, but not much adorn’d, being +altogether bare white Walls, so that only the Ceiling is painted. As one +turns to the Right, we enter an Antichamber, which is a Thorowfare both to +the Elector’s Apartment, and to another on the Left Hand, then occupied by +the Count _de Charolois_. This Antichamber is wainscotted throughout, and +leads to a Gallery, which is also completely wainscotted, the Pannels +being painted white with gilt Fillets. There we saw in Compartments very +fine Pictures, which represent either Hunting, or the Prospects of the +Elector’s several Houses. From this Gallery is an Entrance into a large +Antichamber, all over wainscotted, and adorn’d with Chimney and +Pier-Glasses and magnificent Pictures. From thence, turning to the Left, +we enter into a large Closet, the Furniture of which is a fine Sky-blue +Damask, lac’d with Gold. The Ceilings, Doors and Window-Shutters are +painted white, with gilt _Basso Relievo’s_. In this Closet as well as in +the Chamber next to it, are a great many very fine Pier-Glasses and Marble +Tables: The latter is the Bedchamber; the Furniture and Bed are of blue +Damask, as is also the Closet: Out of this Chamber there’s a Passage to a +second Closet, furnish’d in the same Taste. These Three Pieces follow one +another, and look into the Garden: The last mention’d Closet terminates +the Elector’s Apartment, which communicates by little Offices and a +Stair-case to a small Apartment which his Electoral Highness lives in, the +great Apartment being only for keeping his Court. On the other Side of the +Palace are the Apartments of the Electoress and the Princes, who are all +lodg’d there very commodiously. + +The Gardens of this Palace are very well laid out: As one enters them by +the Steps from the Castle, the first Thing one sees is a very fine +_Parterre_, which reaches to a Wood, that is cut into Three great Walks, +in Form of a Goose-Foot; in the midst whereof are Three Canals of Spring +Water, the middlemost of which runs out of Sight, and has its Issue by +Three Waterfalls, in Form of a Cascade. The Wood consists of Groves, +adorn’d with Bowers, and noble Water-Works. On the Right Hand of the +Garden is a Grove, which contains a Mall; and a little further is a very +great Mall, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The Two Ends run to the grand Walk, +and contain between them a Pavilion, built in Form of a Cross arch’d, +consisting of Two Stories, and forming an Octogon Saloon in the middle +with Four Windows, between which are Four Summer Houses, one of which is +an Antichamber, the second a Bedchamber, the third a Closet, and the +fourth a Stair-case. This House is built in the Form of a Pagod’s Temple, +and all the Furniture is _Indian_, which is the Reason that ’tis call’d +_Pagodenbourg_. Over-against this pretty House, on the Left of the great +Canal, are Bagnio’s. Nothing in the World can be better contriv’d, and +more charming: All the Ceilings, the _Basso Relievo’s_ and other Ornaments +have some Relation or other to the Use for which this House is +appropriated. The Baths are of Marble, adorn’d with Statues and Vessels of +very great Price. + +Tho’ the Elector seem’d to be mightily delighted with _Nymphenbourg_, yet +he was about building another Palace, which was to be call’d +_Schleisheim_: According to the Designs that I saw of it, this Palace must +be much larger and more noble than _Nymphenbourg_, so that they said, that +_Schleisheim_ would be the _Versailles_ of _Bavaria_, and _Nymphenbourg_ +the _Marly_. + +I spent my Time so agreeably while I stay’d at _Munich_, that indeed I was +very loth to quit a Place so charming: Nevertheless, I set out with a +Heart full of Gratitude for all the Favours I had receiv’d from the +Elector, and the Princes his Children. + + * * * * * + +I lay the first Night at _Wasserbourg_[8], and from thence went to PASSAU, +which makes a Part of _Lower Bavaria_, and is a Bishoprick Suffragan of +_Saltzbourg_.[9]_Passau_ is famous for the Treaty which was concluded +there between the Emperor _Charles_ and _Mauric_ Elector of _Saxony_, +whereby the Protestant Religion was establish’d and secur’d in _Germany_, +where before it was only tolerated. This is a very pretty City, has fine +Houses, and several Churches. The Cathedral, which is a quite new +Structure, is very large, and in the Inside very magnificent, being +adorn’d all over with Pilasters, and other Embellishments of Architecture, +and the Roof painted in _Fresco_. I was at Divine Service there on +_Whitsunday_, and as every body then made the best Appearance they could, +I observ’d the meanest Women of the Town were dress’d in Gowns of black +Velvet, and scarlet Petticoats with Gold Lace, and that some of ’em had +Pearl Necklaces of Five or Six Rows; and others Gold Chains with Rings, +and Ear Pendants of Diamonds. + + * * * * * + +From _Passau_ I went down the _Danube_ to _Lintz_, the Capital of _Upper +Austria_; and from thence to VIENNA[10], the Capital of _Austria_, and the +ordinary Residence of the Emperors, ever since _Maximilian_. This City, +which was heretofore but a Bishoprick, was lately erected into an +Archbishoprick, and the Archbishop takes the Title of Prince. The +Cathedral Church, which is dedicated to St. _Stephen_, is an old Building, +very magnificent, but dark: The City stands upon the _Danube_, an Arm of +which separates it from the Suburb, which is call’d _Leopoldstat_: The +_Turks_ have made more than one vain Attempt to be Masters of _Vienna_. +_Soliman_ II. besieg’d it _Sept._ 25, 1529, but on the 14th of _October_ +following _Charles_ V. oblig’d him to raise the Siege. In 1693 the _Turks_ +made another Attempt, and besieg’d it with an Army of above 200,000 Men, +when the Emperor _Leopold_ retir’d with all his Family to the Castle of +_Lintz_, and left the Command of the City to the Count _de Staremberg_: +The Count was forc’d to sustain terrible Attacks from the _Turks_, who +push’d on their Works with Vigor, and the Place could hold out no longer, +when _John Sobieski_ King of _Poland_ advanced to relieve it, at the Head +of an Army of _Poles_. He came in Sight of the Enemy on the 11th of +_September_, and next Day gave them Battle, and obtain’d a complete +Victory; for the _Turks_ abandon’d both their Camp and their Artillery, +and the Conquerors took a prodigious Booty, particularly such a vast +Number of black Cattle, that ’tis said they were sold for Five or Six +Florins apiece. The Emperor no sooner receiv’d the Tidings that the Siege +was rais’d, but he set out from _Lintz_ for _Vienna_, where he visited the +King of _Poland_ in the open Field, and made his grateful Acknowledgments +to him for the signal Service he had then done him. + +_Vienna_ receiv’d a great deal of Damage at this Siege; Part of the +Imperial Palace being reduc’d to Ashes, as well as several other grand +Structures. The Emperor immediately set about repairing those Losses, and +the Palace was rebuilt as it was before; and several of the Nobility also +caus’d such magnificent Palaces to be erected, that in a short time the +Town recover’d its former Splendor. + +The Imperial Palace is large, but has nothing else scarce to boast of, for +the Apartments are low, dark, and without Ornaments, and the Furniture is +very ancient, tho’ scarce any Princes have a finer Treasure in Tapistry; +and why ’tis not us’d, I can’t imagine: The Apartments of the Empress +Dowager were the only ones fit to lodge in; for that Princess took Care to +have them not only rais’d higher, but inlaid and wainscotted, which has +given them a certain Air of Majesty they had not before. This Princess’s +Apartment is hung with black Velvet, it being the Custom of the Imperial +Court, for the Empress Dowagers never to quit their Mourning. The +Bedchamber and the Closet call’d _la Retirade_ or the Withdrawing-Room, +are the only Two Pieces that are not hung with black, the whole Furniture +thereof being grey. For the rest, were a Stranger to see the Palace of +_Vienna_, and to have no Notion of what it is before-hand, he would scarce +imagine it to be the Residence of the first Prince of _Europe_. + +The Palace of _la Favorita_ in the Suburb of _Vienna_, where the Emperor +spends the Summer, is even inferior to that in the City. ’Tis a very large +House, built upon the Highway, without any Court before it, without +Symmetry or Architecture, and which, as to the Outside, looks more like a +Convent, than a Royal Palace. The Inside perfectly answers the Outside. +There’s an Ascent to the Apartments by a great Stair-case, all of Timber, +that leads to a Guard Chamber, which is a Room of no great Extent, and +without any manner of Ornament; and from thence there’s an Entrance into +other Apartments but half furnish’d, and very low, which in short is the +Fault of all the Apartments. The Gardens of the Palace are as +inconsiderable as the Building; they being full of large Fruit-trees, but +in very bad Order, and I saw nothing there that can be call’d a fine +Prospect. + +Mean time the Court Nobility are far from being so ill lodg’d as the +Emperor, for they have all stately Houses, both in the City and Suburbs. +Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_’s Palace is the most magnificent Building that +one shall see; for whether you examine the Outside or the Inside of it, +the whole is of the best Contrivance, and the utmost Magnificence. The +first Hall, which forms the first Piece of the grand Apartment, is all +wainscotted, and adorn’d with large Pictures, representing the chief +Battles won by Prince _Eugene_. From this Hall we enter into a large +Antichamber, where we see a Suit of Tapistry Hangings, made by the famous +_Devos_ of _Brussels_, where that skilful Artist has represented the +principal Transactions of the War to as great Perfection as possible: Out +of this Antichamber we go into the Bedchamber; I never saw any thing so +rich as the Furniture is there; the Tapistry is roll’d up in Pilasters of +green Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, with Figures in Needle Work so finely +drawn, that they seem to be Miniatures. This Piece is intirely furnish’d +in all that Taste: The Closet next to the Bedchamber is all over gilt; and +every thing in general in this Apartment is superb; the Paintings, +Looking-Glasses, Marble Tables, the very Arms and Andirons being of most +curious Workmanship: I ought not to omit the many fine Lustres, of which +that in the Bedchamber is the most magnificent; and I have been told, that +it cost 40,000 Florins: As to the Ceiling and other Pieces of Masonry, +they are indeed very fine, but not so elegant as noble. + +After having taken a full View of the Prince’s Apartments, I was shew’d +the Library, which is in as good a Condition as any in _Europe_. The Books +are rang’d in delightful Order, and the pompous Bindings form the finest +Scene that can be. Hither the Prince comes every now-and-then to unbend +himself from the Fatigues of his great Employments. + +The Prince has a magnificent Garden in the Suburb of _Vienna_, which has a +Court before it, that is separated from the Street by an Iron Grate of +very curious Workmanship. In this Court is a very large Piece of Water, +with a Row of Chestnut-Trees on each Side, that leads to the House, or +rather the Castle, for ’tis a great and stately Building: They were still +at Work upon it when I saw it. This House fronts the Garden, and takes up +almost the whole Breadth of it. The Garden is shelving, for which Reason +it was thought proper to place a very fine Cascade in the middle of it. +There’s a very neat Structure at the End of it, which, like the House, +takes in the whole Breadth of it. Below Stairs is a great Saloon, all +lin’d with Marble of several Colours, and a Ceiling adorn’d with fine +Paintings: From this Saloon there’s a Passage to a Room on the Left, the +Ceiling and Wainscot of which are very fine; and then we enter into a +large Closet, and next to that is a Bedchamber, with a Gallery and another +large Closet at the End of that; so much for what is on the Left of the +Saloon. On the Right Hand is another large Apartment, and the Chapel. The +Backside of the Building looks into a great Court, where are the Stables +and Coach-houses: ’Tis pity that this Prince, after he had been at so much +Expence in this Building, did not buy the Ground where the Empress has +since built a Convent. The Prince was advis’d to it at that very Time, but +he refus’d, and said, he would not purchase the whole Suburb; to be sure +he repents it by this time; for the Convent, which the Empress has caus’d +to be erected there, is a great Inconvenience to that Prince, who cannot +stir one Step at Home, without being overlook’d by the Nuns. + +On the other Side of the City is another Suburb, which is very +considerable, and the Walks there are very fine. The _Prat_, for Instance, +is a Place mightily frequented; ’tis a Wood in an Island, form’d by the +_Danube_, where there is such a surprizing Concourse of People in fine +Weather, that it may well enough be call’d, _The_ Boulogne _Grove of_ +Vienna. As one returns out of this Walk we come to another, call’d _The +Emperor’s Garden_: Here was formerly a beautiful Palace, but the _Turks_ +having burnt it the last time they besieg’d _Vienna_, there is nothing of +it to be seen now but the Ruins: The Garden is a large Spot of Ground, +and, with a little Expence, might be made very fine, but no body seems to +think about it, which I have been told is owing to the surprizing Swarms +of Insects the _Danube_ brings hither at certain Times of the Year, so +that People who come hither to walk, are forc’d to desert it: When they +can come without this Annoyance, the Gentry usually repair hither in the +Evening; adjoining to this Garden is a very fine Wood, in which are cut +out noble Walks: This, _Madame_, is all that is most remarkable in +_Vienna_ and its Suburbs, as to the Buildings; I will next endeavour to +give you an Idea of this Court. + +The Court of _Vienna_ is, in my Opinion, the plainest, and at the same +time the most magnificent in _Europe_: To explain this seeming Paradox, I +must acquaint you, that, as to the external Appearance of the Emperor’s +Houshold, nothing is so plain, nor indeed so dismal: His Liveries are of +black Cloth, with a Lace of yellow and white Silk: The Cloathing of his +Guards is much the same; and besides, they are not many in Number. The +Palace, as I have had the Honour to tell you, is very inconsiderable; yet +taking the Court all together, and considering the Number of Great and +Petty Officers, the many rich Noblemen that spend high, and the several +Princes that are in the Service of his Imperial Majesty, it must be +confess’d, that there is not a Court in _Europe_ so splendid as that of +_Vienna_. At the Time that I was there, the Emperor had in his Service Two +Brothers of a King, Two Princes of Royal Blood, and a great Number of +Princes of Sovereign or other Honourable Families: Nor is there a Court +where there is a more sudden Transition from the meanest to the most +stately external Appearance, and this they commonly run to such an +Extreme, that they absolutely renounce Elegancy, to incumber themselves +with Magnificence: For on solemn Days, as those of Births, Marriages, +_&c._ one sees nothing but Gold, Lace and Diamonds without Number: And as +soon as these Holidays, which are call’d _Gala_, are expir’d, they all +resume their former Plainness. + +After having given you this general Idea of the Court of _Vienna_, I will +acquaint you how they commonly spend their Time: First of all, as soon as +the Emperor is risen, he is dress’d; then he reads some Dispatches, and +sometimes gives Audience to some Minister, or assists in Council. He +afterwards goes to Mass, either at his own Chapel, or to some Church, +according to the Festival. On the Days of Ceremony or Festival he is +accompany’d by the Nuncio and the Ambassadors, upon which Occasion the +Emperor rides thither with very great Pomp. The Grooms of the Imperial +Stables on Horseback begin the Cavalcade, then comes an Equerry, and a +Coach drawn by Six Horses, in which sits the Master of the Horse: He is +follow’d by the Chamberlains, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and the +Ministers, all on Horseback, in black Cloaths, and Cloaks trimm’d with +Lace. After these come the Footmen and Heydukes, in an antic Dress, and +bare-headed. Their Imperial Majesties Coach comes next, between Two Files +of the Hundred _Swiss_: The Emperor rides always with his Face to the +Horses, and the Empress over-against him, unless the Emperor goes into the +Country, and then the Empress sits by his Side. The Pages and some of the +inferior Officers of the Chamber follow on Horseback, and then Three or +Four Coaches, with Six Horses, in which are the Empress’s Ladies: The +Cavalcade is clos’d by a Company of the Garison at _Vienna_, which is +maintain’d at the Charge of the City, and mounts Guard at the Emperor’s +Palace, his Imperial Majesty having no other Foot Guards. + +After Mass is ended, the Emperor returns to his Apartment, preceded by all +his Court, as when he came. The Nuncio and the Ambassadors are covered, as +is also the Emperor; then come the Empress and the Archduchesses, each led +by the Steward of their Houshold. + +When the Emperor is return’d to his Apartment, he retires to a Chamber +call’d _la Retirade_, or the Withdrawing-Room, where he stays till +Dinner-time, which, when ’tis serv’d up, the great Chamberlain goes and +acquaints the Emperor, who comes and sits down at Table with the Empress, +attended by all the Ladies. A Chamberlain or Treasurer of the Chambers +presents the Bason for their Majesties to wash in, who afterwards seat +themselves in Two-arm Chairs: The Table did not appear to me to be serv’d +with very great Delicacy. The Plate is old-fashion’d, and all the Dishes +were set without any Regularity. Their Imperial Majesties have particular +Plates to themselves, for which Reason small Plates are commonly made use +of; and I have seen no less than Five or Six Spoons upon the Table at a +Time: The Emperor covers himself as soon as he is seated; then the Nuncio +and Ambassadors likewise cover themselves, and keep their Standing round +the Table, till their Majesties have drank; their Liquor is presented to +them by a Chamberlain; after their Majesties have drank to one another’s +Healths, the Steward, the great Chamberlain, the Master of the Horse and +the Captain of the Guards step forward to receive the Emperor’s Orders, +and to know how his Majesty will dispose of himself in the Afternoon. The +Ladies of Honour and the Officers belonging to the Empress advance to that +Princess in like manner, to know her Pleasure, and then every body +retires, unless there is Music, which happens very often: The Dinner does +not last much above an Hour: Their Majesties stay at Table till every +thing is taken away, even so much as the Cloth, but then a fresh one is +laid on, upon which the Treasurer places a Bason and an Ewer of Silver +gilt, and presents them to their Majesties to wash. The great Chamberlain +presents the Napkin to the Emperor, as the Lady of Honour does to the +Empress: This done, their Majesties retire to their Withdrawing-Rooms, +tho’ they often go out a Hunting, or to shoot at a Mark. + +When the Emperor shoots at a Mark, several Persons are enter’d down in a +List to shoot with him, and there are Prizes distributed by those who are +of the Society of Shooters, of whom the Emperor gives the first Prize, the +Empress the second, and then all the rest, according to the Seniority of +their Admission into the Society. At their Return from this Diversion, the +Emperor grants Audience to those that send to desire it by the great +Chamberlain, who takes Care to let them know the Time when his Majesty is +to be spoke with. These Audiences are given without Ceremony, and they +that receive them are introduc’d by the Chamberlain in waiting. The +Emperor stands up and is cover’d, leaning with his Back against a Table, +with a Canopy over him, and an Arm-Chair by his Side: The Person that +approaches for Audience bends the Knee Three times, first as he comes in, +next when he is in the middle of the Room, and the third time when he +begins to speak. The Emperor hearkens with Attention, gives a gracious +Answer, and if there be any thing obscure in what is deliver’d to him, he +desires an Explanation. When the Person has made an End of speaking, he +bends one Knee to the Ground, and stretches forth his Hand, as a Signal +that he desires to kiss that of the Emperor, which his Majesty never +refuses. Then the Person retires, going backwards, and making the Three +Obeisances that he made at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are observ’d in +the Audiences of the Empresses; in order to obtain one from the Empress +Regent, Application is made to the great Steward of her Household, who +desires it, and then notifies what Hour will be most convenient for the +Empress to grant it. At these Audiences there attends but one Lady of +Honour, who keeps her proper Distance far enough to be out of the Hearing +of what is said, while her Majesty’s great Steward stays at the Door in +the Antichamber. + +A shocking Abuse is crept into the Court of _Vienna_, in the Article of +Audiences: The next Day after they have been had, the Domestics of the +great Chamberlain and the great Steward come to demand a Fee for the +Service done by their Masters in giving the Notice to their Majesties; and +I have known some so impertinent, as to fix the Sum they claim’d a Right +to. The Hundred _Swiss_ and the very Ushers come likewise to wish happy +Success to the Audience that has been obtain’d, merely for what they can +get. + +As soon as the Audiences are over, the Empress goes into a Room call’d, +_The Looking-Glass Room_, because ’tis the only one in her Apartment where +there are such Glasses: There her Majesty finds the Ladies, who kiss her +Hand one after the Other, after which the Empress sits down to Play; none +but the Ladies have the Honour to play with her, or have Permission to +enter into that Room, excepting indeed the Emperor, the great +Chamberlain, the great Steward, and the Princes who are related to the +Empress. While they are at Play, the Ladies are seated round the Table, +without observing any Precedence; nor is it even as ’tis in _France_, +where the Honour of the Tabouret or Stool to sit on is paid only to the +Duchesses; for at _Vienna_ those who are call’d Duchesses by way of +Railery, are treated as if they were such in Reality. + +There’s another Custom at _Vienna_, very different from the Practice at +other Courts of _Europe_: Here are no Days fix’d for Drawing-Rooms or +Circles, so that the Ladies, when they think proper, send to the Lady of +Honour in waiting, to know of her at what time they may pay their Court to +the Empress; and then they repair to the Palace at the Time appointed. + +Towards Supper-time the Emperor goes to see the Empress; when the Company +gives over Play, and the Empress rises, and admits those Ladies that are +not to stay at Supper to kiss her Hand; after which their Majesties seat +themselves at Table, which is serv’d much after the same manner as at +Dinner: Their Majesties always sup in the Empress’s Apartment, where Two +Wax Candles are plac’d upon the Table, which are chang’d Three or Four +Times by one of the Maids of Honour: When she takes off a Candle, to give +it to the Treasurer to snuff it, she makes a profound Curt’sy, and makes +another when she replaces it on the Table. On the _Gala_ or Festival Days, +there is Music during the Repast. After the Bason has been presented to +their Majesties to wash their Hands in, the Governess or Mother of the +Maids presents the Napkin to the Emperor; and a Maid of Honour, who is at +the same time Lady of the Golden Key, presents it to the Empress. When +the Archduchesses sup with their Majesties, the same Bason is presented to +them that the Emperor has wash’d in, and a Maid of Honour presents them +with the Napkin; and when the Emperor is risen from the Table, the Two +first Archduchesses give the Emperor his Hat, and the Empress her Fan and +Gloves; but, in the Absence of the Archduchesses, this is done by a Lady +of Honour and a Maid of Honour, who must also be a Lady of the Golden Key: +After this, the Ladies who waited at Supper kiss the Empress’s Hand, as +her Majesty goes out of the Room, into the Chamber of Looking-Glasses. As +soon as their Majesties are in this Chamber every body retires, to go to +the Assembly, which, when I was at _Vienna_, was held at the House of +_Madame de Rabutin_, whither came all the _Beau Monde_. Prince _Eugene_ of +_Savoy_ was there too every Night, where he play’d constantly at Picquet +with the Countess _de Badiani_ and some other Ladies. About 11 o’Clock the +Company retir’d to the Places where they had appointed to sup, tho’ Supper +is a Meal they seldom indulge themselves with, all the grand +Entertainments being made at Dinners, and those extremely late. + +The Empresses Dowagers are serv’d at Table with the same Ceremonies as the +Empress Regent, and they commonly eat alone, with only the Archduchesses +their Daughters. The Empress Mother always ate in private, but on +_Sundays_ and Days of Festival or _Gala_, the Empress Dowager din’d in +public. + +I had the Honour to acquaint you before, when I was mentioning the +Empresses Dowagers, that they never quit their Mourning; but this must be +only understood of their Persons, for their Officers and other Domestics +are clad in Colours: Yet, as to their Maids of Honour, let the Day of +_Gala_ be never so grand, the Bodies of their Gowns must be a black +Ground, embroider’d with Gold and Silver, but their Petticoats may be of +what Colour they please. Those Princesses are never at any Play or Ball: +As for the Archduchesses, it being the Custom at _Vienna_ for Sisters to +dress alike, they must be dress’d all in their Hair upon the Days of +Ceremony and _Gala_, as well as their Maids of Honour: They generally wear +the Court Dresses; but on the Days of grand Ceremony they wear Robes, much +like Children’s Vests, and very wide Petticoats with great Trains. + +Upon the Days of _Gala_ there are commonly Operas and Comedies: Their +Imperial Majesties sit in the Pit, the Emperor in the chief Place, and the +Empress on his Left, and the Archduchesses are in the same Row. All those +of the Imperial Family have Arm-Chairs of the same Size and Height, with a +Stand behind, upon which is a Wax Candle. Their Operas are magnificent, as +to the Decorations and Habits, and good Judges have assur’d me, that their +Music is excellent; but for my own Part I think them as sad as most of the +_Italian_ Operas, because neither of ’em are accompany’d with Dances, or +any agreeable Entertainment. + +I think, _Madame_, that I have related within a Trifle every Thing that is +remarkable at _Vienna_, whether at Court or in the City: I shall now give +you a short Account of the Persons who compos’d that august Court at the +Time that I stay’d there. + +_Charles_ VI. was then upon the Imperial Throne, who is the second Son of +the Emperor _Leopold_: After the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, +he was own’d King of that Monarchy by all the Princes of the Grand +Alliance, and he then took the Name of _Charles_ III. He went to his +Kingdom, and shew’d the _Spanish_ Nation, that he was worthy of being +their Sovereign. The Death of the Emperor _Joseph_, his Eldest Brother, +oblig’d him to return to _Germany_, and when he was at _Genoa_ he heard, +that he was chose Emperor. I have already had the Honour to give you an +Account of his Coronation. The Reign of this Monarch has been signaliz’d +by happy Events; the famous Peace concluded with _France_, restor’d that +Tranquillity to the Empire which it had been for a long time depriv’d of, +and that which was concluded some Years after with the _Turks_, secur’d +the Happiness of _Hungary_, and all the hereditary Dominions. + +The Name of the Empress is _Elizabeth Christina_ of _Wolfembuttle +Blanckenberg_: She is a Princess, who, besides all the Qualities of the +Mind, has the most advantagious Aspect: She is the finest Personage at her +Court, and ’tis easy to see by her majestic Carriage, that she was form’d +by Nature to wear one of the chief Crowns in the World: She is very +magnificent in her Apparel, and especially in Diamonds, of which she has +to the Value of several Millions, and the Number is daily increasing by +considerable Presents she receives from the Emperor. This Prince does +Justice to the Merit of his august Spouse, who on her Part makes it her +whole Care to give him Proofs of her Affection; ’tis impossible to find a +more perfect Unity than that which is between their Imperial Majesties: +There are Three Princesses by this Marriage; I had the Honour to see only +the Two Eldest, for the Third was born some Years after my Journey to +_Vienna_. + +She that is first in Rank, next to the Empress and the Archduchesses her +Daughters, was the Empress, Dowager of the Emperor _Leopold_, _Eleonora +Magdalena Theresa_ of _Newbourg_: She was the Mirrour of the whole Court +for Piety; for she spent most of her Time in Prayers at the Altars, or +else in bestowing Charities, which were always very great. The Greatness +of her Birth seem’d to make her uneasy, and she was vex’d to see the +Honours which her Rank and Merit had entail’d upon her; she dy’d in a very +advanc’d Age: She had several Princes and Princesses by the Emperor +_Leopold_, as 1. _Joseph-Jacob_, who dy’d Emperor at _Vienna_, the 17th of +_April_ 1711. 2. _Charles_, the present Emperor, and Three Archduchesses; +the one marry’d to the King of _Portugal_; another, Governess of the +_Netherlands_; and the Third, who resides at the Court of _Vienna_. + +The Empress Dowager of the Emperor _Joseph_ resides also at the Court of +_Vienna_, and her Name is _Wilhelmina-Amelia_: She is the Daughter of the +late Duke of _Hanover_, Uncle to the King of _England_. After the Death of +her Father, who left no Male Issue, this Princess went and stay’d some +time in _France_, and her Sister having marry’d the Prince of _Modena_, +she accompany’d her into that Country, where she stay’d till her Marriage, +which was concluded at _Modena_ with the Emperor _Joseph_, then King of +the _Romans_; for whom the Duke her Brother-in-Law marry’d her as Proxy: +She went afterwards to _Vienna_, where she was the Admiration of the whole +Court, not only for the Lustre of her Person, but for the other Qualities +with which Nature has endow’d her: She took Care to cultivate her Mind +with much Reading, and especially by the Study of the Languages, to which +she gave great Application with Success, and she understands _French_ and +_Italian_ as well as her native Language. This Princess had several +Children by the Emperor her Husband, of whom there are but Two Princesses +living; the one call’d _Maria-Josepha_, marry’d to the Electoral Prince of +_Saxony_, now King of _Poland_; and the other call’d _Maria-Amelia_, +marry’d to the Electoral Prince, now the Elector, of _Bavaria_. + +These, _Madame_, were the Persons of whom the Imperial Family then +consisted: I had the Honour in a few Days after my Arrival to kiss the +Hands of all this august Family, and was afterwards introduc’d to the +Ministers; so that in a very little time I was known by the whole Court, +and was so happy, as to acquire some Friends of Distinction, who gave me +Marks of their good Will, without putting me to the Trouble of dancing +Attendance, and desir’d Prince _Eugene_ to give me an Employment: I had +the Honour to wait on that Prince with particular Letters of +Recommendation, that I brought from the Elector Palatine. The Prince, who +receiv’d me very kindly, told me, that he could not insure me a Place, +because the Colonels dispos’d of all the Employments in their Regiments; +but that he would oblige me to the utmost of his Power; and indeed some +time after, he was so good as to speak for me to the Count _Max----_ of +_S----_, who gave me a Company in his Regiment, which was then in +_Sicily_. I was mightily charm’d with this Present, and imagin’d that +Fortune was at length weary of having so long thwarted me: Yet when I +began to think coolly of the Matter, I had some Reflections which made me +relapse into my former Melancholy: I was not in Cash, and I saw that I +could not avoid being at a considerable Expence. Besides, I had contracted +some dribbling Debts, which I wanted to clear before I left _Vienna_: My +Equipage was so much out of Repair, that it would cost some Money to +remount it; and finally, there was a Necessity for my going to _Sicily_; +all which Things were not to be done with a trifling Expence: Upon this +Occasion I receiv’d fresh Proofs of the Affection of my Friends, who all +interested themselves for me effectually: _Madamoseille de K----_, Maid of +Honour to the Empress Dowager, procur’d me a Gratuity from her Imperial +Majesty; and the Countess of _W----_, at whose House I was every Day, +advanc’d me a Thousand Ducats, saying, That I should pay her when I was +able, or rather, when I was preferr’d to be a Lieutenant-General. She +accompany’d her Generosity too with some Advice, that was truly wise and +christian, and seem’d to come rather from the Lips of a Mother than a +Friend. This Lady was heartily glad that I had chang’d my Religion, and +was the more willing to assist me in making an End of my Affairs, for Fear +that I should be overcome by the Temptation of turning Protestant again, +for the Sake of getting Employment in my own Country. + +You see, _Madame_, by what I have just had the Honour to mention to you, +that I was now in a Condition to quit _Vienna_ with Credit, and indeed my +Stay there was no longer than to be a Spectator of Two great Solemnities, +of which I am next to give you a Description: The first was the Entry of a +_Turkish_ Ambassador, and the second the Marriage of the Archduchess +_Maria-Josepha_ with the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_; upon both which +Occasions the Imperial Court made the fullest Display of its Magnificence. + +As to the Entry of the Ambassador, I may venture to say, it was only +magnificent on the Part of the Imperial Court, for in Truth the +Mahometan’s whole Train and Equipage were very inconsiderable. This +Ambassador’s Name was _Ibrahim Basha_; he had 600 Men in his Retinue, but +they were all very shabbily rigg’d. Till the Day of his Entry he stay’d in +a Camp, which he had caus’d to be form’d Two Leagues from _Vienna_; I went +thither with some Friends to see him: He receiv’d us with very great +Civility, and made us a Present of Coffee and Sweetmeats. During this +Collation I took a minute View of the Inside of his Tent, which was really +stately, and the largest that I ever saw: On the Ground there was a noble +Carpet spread, and over that a Sort of Foot-cloth of Crimson Sattin, +embroider’d with Gold, on which sate the Ambassador, with rich Cushions +about him of the same: On this same Foot-cloth, at the Ambassador’s Right +Hand sate the Secretary of the Embassy: Round the Ambassador there was +about a Score of Turks tolerably well dress’d, and among them Three or +Four clever likely young Fellows; in particular I observ’d a Moor there, +that was the handsomest Man I ever saw: His Dress was richer than the Garb +of the other Turks, and, as I was told, he was the Ambassador’s special +Favourite. After we had talk’d awhile with him, and were taking our Leave +of him, he was so civil as to offer to shew us his Camp, which we with +Pleasure accepted, and set out accordingly with a Person that the +Ambassador gave us for our Guide. + +This Camp took up more Space of Ground than would have serv’d for 2000 +Men. The Tents were a great way from one another, and plac’d without any +Order. Their Horses, Oxen and Camels were all stow’d _higledy pigledy_. +But the Ambassador’s particular Equipage was in a Sort of Park, inclos’d +by Toils like those that are us’d in Hunting: Every thing was to the last +Degree slovenly, the inferior Domestics especially were the most +disagreeable Gentry I ever saw; they had not Cloaths to their Backs, but +what were in Rags and Tatters; and the chief Domestics were but little +better rigg’d; several of them however were mighty civil to us, and +desirous to regale us in their Tents. + +Some Days after this our Visit, the Ambassador made his Entry with great +Ceremony; the Marshal of the Court went and met him Half a League out of +_Vienna_, at the Head of the Magistrates of the City, those made free by +the Court, all the Trading Companies and Gentlemen, all well mounted and +richly dress’d: The Ambassador was dragg’d along by a Pair of wretched +Horses in one of his own Coaches, which was a little low Chariot, made +almost like the cover’d Waggons of _Holland_, except that instead of Wax +Cloth and Leather, it was cover’d with a red Cloth. When the Ambassador +and the Marshal of the Court came near to one another, they both alighted, +and after mutual Compliments mounted their Horses: There were carry’d +before the Ambassador Three Horse-Tails and the Standard of _Mahomet_, +which is a great Pair of Colours of green Taffeta, all sprinkled with +Crescents of Gold: He who carry’d it was on Horseback, and that the End of +the Colours might not trail upon the Ground, a Man that was on Foot held +up the Corners of it. The Ambassador was preceded by all his Equipage, in +which there was Half a Dozen of Waggons, cover’d with ragged Tilts, and +drawn each by Four scrubbed Horses, that were led by Carters, whose +Cloaths were in a very bad Pickle. After this Equipage came the +Ambassador’s Officers, and then twelve Horses, of which the Sultan made a +Present to the Emperor. Behind the Ambassador there march’d a Company of +_Spahis_, that carry’d Pikes, with small Standards at the End of various +Colours. These were follow’d by a Company of _Janizaries_, who, tho’ but +meanly clad, made a very warlike Appearance, their Arms and Legs being +both naked: The March was closed by a Regiment of _Hussars_. + +This Train pass’d before the Palace call’d _la Favorita_, in View of the +Emperor and Empress, and then went thro’ the City, passing the Bridge over +the _Danube_, into the Suburb of _Leopoldstat_, where a House was prepar’d +for him, according to antient Custom, which is, that no _Turkish_ +Ambassador must ever lodge in the City of _Vienna_. + +The Ambassador seem’d to be very scrupulous in his Observation of the +Ceremonial: He was loth to consent, that the _Janizaries_ should carry +their Muskets on their Shoulders, when they pass’d before the Emperor at +his Palace _la Favorita_; and pleaded in Excuse, that the _Janizaries_ did +not march so even in Presence of the Sultan. He stood also upon his +Punctilio in some other Trifles, to which however he was oblig’d to +submit, or he was threaten’d that he should not make his Entry. The +Ambassador on his Part to shew his Resentment, caus’d only Two Horse-Tails +to be carry’d erect, and the Third downwards; but seeing that no body +car’d for his being out of Humour, he soon came to himself again, and then +was treated with Civility. He seem’d to be very fond of good Order, and +caus’d some of his Domestics, who had committed certain Enormities, to be +severely punish’d. + +While the Ambassador stay’d at _Leopoldstat_, _Vienna_ swarm’d with +_Turks_, most of whom having never been out of their own Country, star’d +with so much Surprise at every thing they saw, that it afforded daily +Diversion to the Public. One Day I observ’d a _Turk_ entring _St. +Stephen_’s Church at the Time when there was no Service, nor so much as a +Soul in the Church. I was so curious as to follow him at a Distance, and +to observe all his Motions, which made me very merry: The Place at which +he discover’d the greatest Astonishment was the Choir, the Form of the +Clergy’s Stalls there, the Construction of the High Altar; in a Word, +every thing was to him a perfect Novelty: But the Thing which seem’d to +puzzle him most of all was, a noble Lamp burning in the midst of the +Choir: He turn’d round and round it again, and view’d it on every Side for +a long while, but seem’d as much confounded as at first, wondring to be +sure how they did to kindle it. Mean time, after a little Pause, he +observ’d a String underneath it, which he took into his Head to pull, and +finding that all came towards him, he brought the Lamp down to the Ground. +I observ’d that he was mightily pleas’d that he had found out the Meaning +of the Difficulty which had so much perplex’d him; and when the Fire was +so near him, he pull’d a long Pipe out of his Pocket with so much Gravity, +that I could not help smiling; and after he had lighted it at the Lamp, +he hoisted it to the Place it was in before, and then went out. + +Not many Days after the Entry of the _Turkish_ Ambassador was the Ceremony +of the Marriage of the Archduchess _Maria-Josepha_ to the Electoral Prince +of _Saxony_. The Marriage had been projected a long time, and ’tis even +said, that the Emperor _Joseph_ had promis’d the King of _Poland_ in +Writing to give his Eldest Daughter to the Electoral Prince, on Condition +that he would turn to the Catholic Religion. Meantime, while this Match +hung in Suspence, the Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_ enter’d the List, +which very much embarras’d the Court of _Vienna_, who did not know for +which Match to determine. The Person employ’d in this Negotiation by the +_Saxon_ Court was the Count _de Wackerbarth_. Soon after him the Electoral +Prince in Person came to the Court of _Vienna_, and when he was oblig’d to +return, he left the Count _de Lagnasco_ there to take Care of his +Interest; who at length obtain’d the Emperor’s Consent, and the Count _de +F----_ came with the Character of Ambassador to demand the Princess of the +Emperor, which was done with very great Solemnity. As I was curious to +know the Ceremonies usual upon such Occasions, I went to the Count _de +F----_, on the Day that he was to go on the Emperor for his Audience. Who +should I see arrive but the Count _D’Oropesa_, a Grandee of _Spain_, +Knight of the Golden Fleece, and one of the Emperor’s Chamberlains, in a +Coach drawn by Six Horses, follow’d by a second Coach and Six, with the +Emperor’s Arms and Liveries: His Imperial Majesty’s Footmen and the +Count’s Lackeys walk’d on each Side of the first Coach. The Count _de +F----_ receiv’d the Count _D’Oropesa_ as he alighted out of his Coach, and +conducted him into a Room, where Two Chairs of State were plac’d under a +Canopy of Crimson Velvet, inrich’d with Embroidery and Gold Fringe; and +over the Chairs was plac’d the Picture of the King of _Poland_. The Two +Counts seated themselves in the Chairs of State, the Ambassador giving the +Right Hand to the Count. They were both cover’d, talk’d for about a +Quarter of an Hour, and then went out. The Ambassador stepp’d first into +the Emperor’s Coach, and then the Count _D’Oropesa_, the former riding +forwards, and the latter backwards over-against him. Four of the principal +_Saxon_ Gentlemen in the Ambassador’s Retinue went into the second Coach. +Then the March began, when one of the Coaches of the Court led the Way, +follow’d by one of the Ambassador’s Officers, at the Head of Twenty-four +of his Excellency’s Lackeys; the Coach wherein the Two Counts rode +follow’d next; the Emperor’s Footmen and the Count _D’Oropesa_’s Lackeys +walking on each Side: Then came Eight of the Ambassador’s Pages, Four of +whom were in the _German_, and Four in the _Polish_ Dress; their Coats +were of blue Velvet lac’d with Gold: Four Pages of the Back-stairs clad in +blue Cloth lac’d with Gold follow’d the other Pages, and Three of the +Ambassador’s Coaches with Six Horses each clos’d the March: In this Order +did the Train arrive at the Palace; the Ambassador’s first Coach enter’d +alone into the Inner Court, the Two others stay’d in the Outer Court. The +Ambassador found the Emperor under a Canopy, and in the Name of the King +his Master demanded the Archduchess of him in Marriage for the Electoral +Prince: The Emperor made him Answer, that he was very willing, on +condition that the Empress, Mother to the Archduchess, and the Archduchess +herself gave their Consent. After this Audience the Ambassador was +conducted to the Empress Regent, and to the Empress Mother, of whom he +made the same Demand, almost in the same Terms. The Princesses answer’d, +That if the Emperor was willing, and the Empress _Amelia_ and the +Archduchess consented to it, they should see the Marriage concluded with +Pleasure: Then the Ambassador was conducted to an Audience of the Empress +_Amelia_, of whom he made the same Demand, telling her too of the Answer +he had receiv’d from the Emperor and the Empresses. This Empress made +Answer, That the Emperor’s Will was always Her’s, that the Electoral +Prince was a Match that she lik’d, and that she hop’d the Archduchess her +Daughter would not be against it; and that she would go that Instant, and +let her know what he came about: At the same time she turn’d to the +Countess of _Caraffa_, her Lady of Honour, and bad her send for the +Archduchess: This Princess, being in an adjacent Room, came that Moment, +dress’d most richly: And the Empress told her what the Ambassador had just +declar’d to her on the Part of the King of _Poland_, relating to her +Marriage with his Son the Electoral Prince: She added, that the Emperor, +the Empresses and Herself had agreed to the Match; that nevertheless she +was left absolutely to her own Disposal, and that the Emperor did not mean +to constrain her: The Archduchess made Answer, That she had no Objection +to the Marriage, and that she obey’d their Imperial Majesties Orders with +Respect. After this Declaration the Ambassador advanc’d, and addressing +himself to the Archduchess, presented her with the Electoral Prince’s +Picture adorn’d with Diamonds, which this Princess accepted, and without +looking on it gave it to the Empress her Mother: The Empress, after having +diligently view’d it, went to fasten it to the Body of the Archduchess’s +Gown, but the Ambassador desir’d her Imperial Majesty to grant him that +Honour; and after this Ceremony he return’d to his Palace as he came. + +The Emperor, the Empress Regent and the Empress Mother went to the +Apartment of the Empress Dowager, where, after mutual Compliments of +Congratulation, their Majesties din’d together. In the Evening the Emperor +and the Empresses went to pay a Visit to the Archduchess, that was to be +marry’d, where the whole Court was present, and there was great Play, +after which their Imperial Majesties and the Archduchess went and supp’d +with the Empress _Amelia_. + +Some Days after this, the Ambassador of _Poland_ went again in Ceremony, +but with his own Coaches, to the Palace _la Favorita_, where, in the +Presence of all the Imperial Family, all the Ministers and Privy +Counsellors, and the Knights of the Golden Fleece, he solemnly renounc’d +the Right of Succession in the Name of the King his Master, and of the +Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, in case it pleas’d God that the Emperor +should dye without Male Issue. The Count _de Sinzendorf_, Chancellor of +the Court, read the Act of Renunciation to all present, after which the +Emperor demanded the Consent of the Archduchess, and the Princess giving +her said Consent, the Emperor order’d an Oath thereupon to be +administer’d to her, which she took accordingly before the Archbishop of +_Valencia_. This Prelate being dress’d in his Pontificalibus before an +Altar that had been erected in the Chamber, gave the Book of the Gospels +to the Princess, who laying her Hands thereon, solemnly renounc’d the +Rights of Succession. The Ambassador swore the same Thing in the Name of +the King his Master, and the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_. + +In a few Days after this was done, the Electoral Prince set out from +_Dresden_, and came to a House made ready for him Two Leagues from +_Vienna_. Having sent Notice of his Arrival to the Emperor, the Empresses +and the Archduchess, the Emperor dispatch’d the Count _de Molard_ the +chief Steward of his Kitchen to him, as the Empresses and the +Archduchesses did the Gentlemen of their Housholds, to compliment him +thereupon: Next Day the Prince came _incognito_ to the Convent of Nuns +founded by the Empress _Amelia_, who also repair’d thither with the Two +Archduchesses her Daughters. After an Interview of about Half an Hour, the +Archduchess, that was to be marry’d, and the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, +went to the Church, and there confess’d; which done, the Prince return’d +to his House, which, as I have had the Honour to observe to you, was Two +Leagues from _Vienna_. He came again from thence next Day at Six in the +Evening, and alighted at the Palace _la Favorita_, where being conducted +into the great Chamberlain’s Apartment, he there chang’d his Cloaths, and +was then introduc’d by the great Chamberlain to the Emperor, and his +Imperial Majesty led him to the Empress’s Apartment, where were the Two +Empress Dowagers and all the Archduchesses. The Emperor presented the +Prince to them, and then they went to the Chapel in the following Order: +The March was begun by all the Lords and Ladies of the Court; then came +the Electoral Prince, with one of his Gentlemen, bearing a Wax Candlestick +before him. The Emperor immediately follow’d the Prince, and then came the +Three Empresses and the Archduchess, who was supported by the Two Empress +Dowagers, the Empress Regent walking foremost, as she always did +where-ever they went: The latter had on a Straw-colour’d Gown of Silver +Tissue, adorn’d with Diamonds, and her Head Dress was adorn’d all over +with Pearls like Pears. The Archduchess, whom I shall hereafter call the +_Electoral Princess_, was also very richly dress’d; she wore a Fardingale, +and her Gown was of Silver Brocade adorn’d with Diamonds: Next to the +Princess the Three Archduchesses walk’d one after another, led each by +their Equerries: These Princesses were follow’d by their Ladies, whose +Dresses were of extraordinary Magnificence. As soon as the Electoral +Prince and Princess were arriv’d in the Chapel, they received the nuptial +Benediction from the Archbishop of _Vienna_. When the Ceremony was ended, +the Imperial Family return’d to the Empress’s Closet, where they stay’d +near Two Hours, and then repair’d to the Table, in the same Order as they +observ’d when they went to the Church. The Hall of the Festival was set +off in an extraordinary manner; the Table was plac’d upon a Floor rais’d +Three Steps, which form’d an oblong Square. The Emperor and the Three +Empresses sate at one End; the Electoral Princess sate on the Right Side +of the Table, and at the Right Hand of the Empress Mother; the Electoral +Prince, who had the second Place on the Right Hand of the Princess, had a +Chair with only a Back to it, and was serv’d by one of his own +Chamberlains; whereas the Princess and the Archduchesses sate in +Arm-chairs, and were attended by the Emperor’s Chamberlains: Over-against +the Princess, on the Left Hand of the Empress _Amelia_, sate the +Archduchess her Daughter, and the Two Archduchesses the Emperor’s Sisters: +The Court Ladies stood all round the Table till their Imperial Majesties +had each drank once, and then they went to sit down at Tables serv’d in +different Rooms, but return’d to the Desart: There was such a Number of +Services, that the Supper held a long time, during which it was animated +by excellent Music: In the same Room a Sort of Gallery was erected for the +_Turkish_ Ambassador, who saw all the Supper, and was attended by 30 of +his Domestics. Care was taken to serve him with Sweetmeats and other +Refreshments; and the Interpreter having ask’d him what he thought of the +Magnificence of the Court of _Vienna_; he answer’d very gallantly, That +noble as this Appearance was, there was nothing so grand in the whole +Entertainment as the Person of the Empress. + +After Supper was ended, the Empress Dowagers led the Princess into her own +Apartment, and did not retire till she was in Bed: Next Day the Prince and +Princess receiv’d the Compliments of the whole Court; they din’d +afterwards with the Emperor and the Empresses, and at Night went and saw a +new Opera, that was compos’d upon account of their Nuptials. The Emperor +sate there as usual, with the Empress on his Left Hand, and the +Archduchesses one after another in the same Row; the Electoral Princess +preserv’d the Precedence due to her Birth; the Electoral Prince sate in +the same Line as the Emperor, but after all the Archduchesses. The Opera +was most magnificent, yet I thought it very tedious, for really ’twas too +long; and besides, the Heat was intolerable: When the Opera was over, the +Imperial Family supp’d together, as they did next Day at Dinner, which was +the last Meal that the Prince and Princess made at _Vienna_; for as soon +as they rose from Table, they took Leave of the Emperor and the Empresses, +and set out for _Dresden_. There arose some Difficulty touching the +Ceremonial that was to be observ’d as they pass’d thro’ _Prague_, to avoid +which the Electoral Prince went before, and pass’d round the Town; but the +Princess made her Entry there. + + * * * * * + +As soon as the Princess was gone, I began to think what a tedious Journey +I should have before I could join my Regiment, which, as I have had the +Honour to tell you, was in _Sicily_. As this Journey would naturally keep +me a long time out of my own Country, I was willing first of all to settle +my Affairs. For this Reason I desir’d a Month’s Furlough, and went to +_Dresden_, from whence I sent for my Steward to come and meet me. I chose +to stay at _Dresden_ rather than _Berlin_, not only on account of the +Solemnity of the Princess’s Entry, of which I was fond to be a Spectator, +but because of the Enemies I had at the Court of _Prussia_, who would +perhaps have done me some ill Office with the King. Having set out from +_Vienna_ a few Days after the Electoral Princess, I arrived at _Dresden_ +the same Day that her Highness made her Entry there. The Preparations +made for receiving the Princess were of the utmost Magnificence, so that +one could hardly imagine any thing more rich and gay. In order to give you +some Idea of the _Polish_ Magnificence, I will resume my Narrative from +the Time of the Princess’s Departure from _Prague_. + +As soon as the King had Notice that the Princess was gone from _Prague_, +he sent the Count _de Wackerbarth_, Grand Master of the Artillery, at the +Head of several Gentlemen, to meet her: The Count, who met the Princess on +the Frontiers of _Bohemia_, complimented her in the King’s Name, and +presented those Officers to her which his Majesty sent to attend her; for +till then she had been waited on by the Officers of the Emperor, who had +all along defray’d her Expences. Her Highness proceeded in her Journey to +_Pirna_, the first Town in _Saxony_, where she was receiv’d by the +Electoral Prince, and saluted by the Cannon of the Castle of +_Sonnenstein_. Next Day, at 7 o’Clock in the Morning, the Prince and +Princess went on board the _Bucentaure_, which was a Galley finely rigg’d, +and call’d by that Name, because ’twas built after the Model of the +_Bucentaure_ of _Venice_: Their Galley was accompany’d by 100 Gondolas, +painted and richly gilded, and by 12 Fregates, from 6 to 12 Guns each: All +the Gondoliers and Sailors had Jackets of Sky-blue Sattin, and Breeches of +yellow Sattin, lac’d with Silver. With this gallant Fleet, worthy to carry +_Thetis_ and _Amphitrite_, the Prince and Princess arriv’d within Half a +League of _Dresden_. + +The King went in Cavalcade to the Place where the Princess landed, some +Hours before her Arrival, and was attended by the Nobility of his Court, +all richly dres’d. The King especially was attir’d most sumptuously, in +shorn Velvet of a purple Colour, adorn’d with Diamonds, to the Value of +Two Millions of Crowns: He caus’d his Standard to be carry’d before him by +a _Polander_, arm’d _cap-a-pie_. As soon as he came to the Landing-Place, +he made a Review of the Train that was to compose the Entry, and retir’d +afterwards to a magnificent Tent, lin’d with yellow Velvet, adorn’d with +Silver Lace, to wait the Arrival of the Princess. + +As soon as the _Bucentaure_ came near enough to be seen from Land, she +made a triple Discharge of all her Artillery, which were answer’d by the +Cannon of Five Yatchts that were at Anchor on the _Elbe_, over-against the +King’s Tent, and from the Batteries on Shore. + +During this the King went to the Ships, over a Bridge erected for that +Purpose, and cover’d with green Tapistry, sprinkled with Flowers. The +_Bucentaure_ dropping her Anchor, the Princess made ready to meet the +King: When she came near him, she would fain have kiss’d his Hand, but the +Monarch embrac’d her tenderly, and conducted her to his Tent, where he had +some Conversation with the Prince and Princess, and then left them to +return to _Dresden_. + +The Prince and Princess sate down to Table, and a grand Breakfast was +serv’d up; then the Boards of the Tent were struck down, that their +Highnesses might see the Troops and Equipage march by that were to compose +their Retinue at their Entry into _Dresden_: All this lasted about Two +Hours; then came a stately Coach drawn by Eight Horses, being the Equipage +that was for the Princess, who sate in it alone, while the Prince her +Husband rode on Horseback, and they made their Entry with all the Pomp +and Magnificence possible. + +I own to you, _Madame_, that I was so charmed with the Disposition that +was observ’d in this Procession, and especially with the Richness and +Elegancy of the Habiliments, that I cannot resist the Temptation I feel to +give you the Particulars, but must submit to it, tho’ I run the Risque +perhaps of being thought too tedious. + +The Cavalcade was open’d by the King’s Harbinger on Horseback, in the +_Saxon_ Livery, which was yellow Cloth, with broad Lace of blue Velvet, +mix’d with Silver Lace. + +Then came 2 Post Masters. + +The Baron _de Mordax_, Post Master General, preceded by his Domestics on +Foot. + +40 Post Masters of _Saxony_ clad in white with yellow Lace, the whole +edg’d with Silver, as were also the Housings of their Horses, which were +all over black. + +100 Postilions dress’d in yellow with blue Lace, they had Caps like +Dragoons, and the Housings of their Horses were embroider’d with the +King’s Arms. + +120 Led Horses richly caparison’d, belonging to the chief Lords of the +Court. + +A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, dress’d in the antique Garb in black +Cloth and yellow, with Gold Lace. + +50 Halberdiers on Horseback, dress’d also in the antique manner, in the +yellow, black and gold Colours, bearing Halberds: These represented the +ancient Guards of the Electors of _Saxony_. + +The Nobility of _Lusatia_ dress’d in black Velvet, with Buttons and +Button-holes of Gold. + +24 Horses cover’d with great Housings of yellow Cloth, adorn’d with 2 +Silver Lace Edgings, and the embroider’d Arms of the 24 Cities or +Provinces of _Saxony_ and _Poland_. + +A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, habited like the former. + +The Nobility of _Saxony_ dress’d in black Velvet Coats, with Buttons and +Loops of Gold, and Waistcoats of Gold Brocade. + +50 Halberdiers on Horseback, dress’d and arm’d like the former. + +A Regiment of Dragoons, whose Regimental Cloaths were red, fac’d with +grey, and edg’d with Silver Galoon; the Housings of the Horses were +likewise red, and embroider’d with Silver; and the Dragoons were dress’d +exactly like the Officers, only they had not Silver Lace. + +120 Coaches and 6 Horses belonging to the Chamberlains and Ministers, each +preceded by Lackeys and Running-Footmen, and surrounded by Heydukes, with +2 Pages in Front. + +The King’s Huntsmen, consisting of 200 Persons, dress’d in green with +Silver Lace. + +A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers, cloath’d in red, turn’d up with green: The +Officers had Gold Lace, and their Caps were likewise embroider’d with +Gold. + +An Equerry of the Princess Royal, attended by 2 Grooms in the _Saxon_ +Livery on Horseback. + +25 Hunting Horses, all _English_, belonging to the Electoral Prince: The +Horses were cover’d with Housings of yellow Cloth, lac’d with Silver, and +embroider’d with the Arms of _Poland_ and _Saxony_. + +Another of the Electoral Prince’s Equerries, at the Head of 36 Led Horses +belonging to his Highness, which had Housings of yellow Velvet, adorn’d +with Lace and Fringe of Silver; the Arms of _Poland_ and _Saxony_ being +embroider’d upon each of the Saddle-cloths in 2 Escutcheons under a Royal +Pavilion. + +A Regiment of _Cuirassiers_, having their Cuirasses gilt, with white and +straw-colour’d Plumes on their Helmets. + +A Herald at Arms, wearing a Vest of yellow and blue Velvet, embroider’d +with Silver, and a Cap of black Velvet, adorn’d with white and blue Plumes +of Feathers. + +A Kettle-Drummer and 12 Trumpeters in the Livery of _Saxony_. + +3 of the King’s Equerries, follow’d by 36 _English_ Horses, belonging to +his Majesty, with Housings like to those of the Prince’s Hunting Horses. + +The Governor and Sub-Governor of the Pages, in Cloaks of black Damask, +adorn’d with black and Gold Lace. + +24 of the King’s Pages, dress’d in the antique Mode, with Cloaks of blue +and yellow Sattin, adorn’d with Lace, in the _Saxon_ Livery; and with +black Velvet Caps, adorn’d with white and blue Plumes. + +40 Manag’d Horses, with Housings of yellow Velvet, embroider’d with +Silver, led by Grooms in the _Saxon_ Livery on Horseback. + +An Equerry, follow’d by a Couple of Grooms in the _Saxon_ Livery on +Horseback. + +24 Coaches of the King as Elector, with Sets of Horses of several Colours. + +A Kettle-Drummer and 12 Trumpeters in the _Saxon_ Livery. + +A Litter of the King’s, plated all over with Silver, and adorn’d with +yellow Velvet, embroider’d with Silver, carry’d by a Couple of Mules, +richly harness’d: Their Bells were all of Silver, and their Pannels of +yellow Velvet, embroider’d with Silver; they had great Plumes on their +Heads of blue and white Feathers, and the Muleteers were dress’d in the +_Spanish_ Mode, but in the _Saxon_ Livery. + +After this Litter there follow’d 24 Mules, cover’d with yellow Cloth +Housings, lac’d with Silver, and embroider’d with the Royal Arms; they had +blue and white Plumes of Feathers, and their Bells and Paniers were of +solid Silver. + +A Regiment of _Cuirassiers_, whose Cuirasses were wash’d with Silver, and +Helmets tufted with red and white Plumes. + +A Herald at Arms, with a Vest of straw-colour’d Velvet, embroider’d with +Gold, with the Arms of _Poland_. + +2 Equerries in the _Polish_ Habit. + +A Kettle-Drummer and 12 of the King’s Trumpeters in the _Polish_ Dress, in +Scarlet with blue Velvet Lace, mix’d with Gold Lace. + +36 _Polish_ Led Horses, having red Velvet Housings, with the King’s Arms +in Gold Embroidery. + +A Governor of the _Polish_ Pages on Horseback, follow’d by 24 Pages in the +_Polish_ Habit, of Scarlet with Vests of blue Sattin, the whole edg’d with +an open Gold Lace. + +3 of the King’s Equerries in the _Polish_ Dress, Follow’d by 24 _Turkish_ +Horses richly caparison’d _alamode de Turky_, led by Grooms in the +_Polish_ Livery, but _Turkish_ Habit, walking on Foot, and bearing each on +their Left Arm a Tyger’s Skin, edg’d with scarlet Velvet, lac’d with Gold, +and embroider’d with the King’s Arms. + +24 open Calashes, drawn each by 6 _Polish_ Horses, drove by Coachmen and +Postilions in the _Polish_ Habit. + +A Litter of red _Spanish_ Leather, lin’d with straw-colour’d Velvet, +embroider’d with Gold, carry’d by 2 Mules, caparison’d after the _Turkish_ +Mode, with Pannels of scarlet Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, and drove by +Muleteers in the _Turkish_ Dress, but with the _Polish_ Livery. + +24 Mules caparison’d after the _Turkish_ manner, with scarlet Velvet +embroider’d with Gold. + +A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers dress’d in red, fac’d with blue, as were +also the Officers, only with the Addition of a Silver Lace. + +All the Colonels and Generals of the Troops dress’d uniform in Scarlet, +with gilt Buttons. + +The Veldt Marshal the Count _de Flemming_. + +A Regiment of Dragoons in a red Livery fac’d with blue; only the Officers +had their Facings and Vest embroider’d with Silver. + +2 Harbingers of the Court. + +All the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber, the Chamberlains and Ministers on +Horseback, who were follow’d at some Distance by the Grand Marshal. + +A Regiment of Dragoons, dress’d in red with yellow Facings, and the Coats +of the Officers edg’d with a Gold Lace. + +12 Running-Footmen with blue Damask Jackets lac’d with Silver, and Sashes +of yellow Damask, embroider’d with Silver, and encompass’d with a Silver +Fringe; these were follow’d by 24 Heydukes in the _Saxon_ Livery. + +The Hundred _Swiss_ Guards, dress’d after the antique manner in the +_Saxon_ Liveries, walking in Two Files, with their Officers in the +_French_ Mode at their Head, in Sky-blue Coats, all of the same Pattern, +with Silver Buttons and Button-holes, and Belts of Silver. + +The Electoral Prince of _Saxony_ was in the midst of the Hundred _Swiss_; +he had a Coat on of Cloth of Silver, embroider’d with Gold and Diamonds, +and was mounted on a fine _Spanish_ Horse, the intire Equipage whereof was +of Gold adorn’d with Diamonds. The Count _de Lutzelbourg_, great Steward +of his Houshold, and the Baron _de Galen_, one of the Prince’s +Chamberlains, immediately follow’d him. + +The Prince was attended by 36 Footmen in the _Saxon_ Livery, and by a +Company of the King’s Life-Guards. + +Then came at a little Distance a Moor on Horseback, in the _Turkish_ +Dress, all in Gold and Silver Brocade, bearing a Quiver of Arrows; he was +follow’d by 24 Moors, dress’d also in the _Turkish_ Habit, in scarlet +Cloaths edg’d with blue and Gold Lace, and long Vests of white Sattin; and +upon their Turbans they wore very fine Tufts of Feathers. + +Immediately after came the Princess’s Coach between Two Files of the +Hundred _Swiss_; ’twas adorn’d with crimson Velvet, cover’d all over with +Gold Embroidery; the Roof was adorn’d with 8 great Plumes of white +Feathers, and in the middle there were Tufts of Herons Feathers: This +Equipage was drawn by 8 stately _Neapolitan_ Horses, which had Harnesses +of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, and Plumes of white Feathers upon +their Heads, with noble Housings of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, +and edg’d with Gold Fringe, which hung down to the Ground: The Coachman, +Postilions and 8 Grooms led the Horses by Strings and Reins of Gold, and +they had Coats of crimson Velvet, with Waistcoats fac’d with blue Velvet, +and adorn’d with a broad Gold Lace. + +Immediately after her Highness’s Coach the chief Steward of her Houshold +follow’d on Horseback, attended by 24 Turks in Scarlet, with fine Tufts of +Feathers on their Turbans. + +A Company of the Life-Guards. + +5 Coaches with the _Saxon_ Livery, in which sat the Princess’s chief Lady +and her Maids of Honour. + +A Regiment of Horse, in a red Livery fac’d with blue, clos’d the March. + +With this pompous Train the Princess arriv’d at the Palace: The Streets +thro’ which her Highness pass’d were lin’d with 5000 Foot in new Cloaths: +The Electoral Prince handed the Princess out of her Coach, and led her +into the grand Apartment, where were the King and Queen and the whole +Court: From the very Entrance of the Palace to the Guard-Room the Hundred +_Swiss_ were drawn up in Two Rows under Arms: The Guard-Room was lin’d +with the Horse-Guards in scarlet Coats fac’d with blue, and blue Cloth +Waistcoats embroider’d with Gold: The Life-Guards form’d the second Row, +next to the Horse-Guards. + +The King and Queen went to the third Antichamber to meet the Princess, +when the King presented her to the Queen, whose Hand her Highness offer’d +to kiss; but her Majesty embrac’d her, and taking her by the Hand, led her +after the King into the Chamber of Audience: They stay’d there a few +Moments, and then their Majesties and their Highnesses went into the +Closet, from whence the Queen led her back in a little time to the Chamber +of Audience, where she presented all the Ladies to her. Afterwards the +Princess being fatigued retir’d to her Apartment, and the Court broke up +till next Morning, when there was a _Te Deum_ sung, during which there +was a triple Discharge of the Cannon from the Ramparts, and of the small +Arms from all the Infantry: After this Solemnity was over, the King and +Queen din’d in State, at a Table forming an oblong Square, rais’d Three +Steps from the Floor, and plac’d under a magnificent Canopy: The Prince +and Princess din’d with their Majesties, the Prince at one End of the +Table near the King, and the Princess at the other End by the Queen: They +had Arm-Chairs, but not so high as were those of their Majesties. + +At the same time there were 9 Tables spread for 30 Guests apiece, for the +Ladies, the Courtiers, and the Foreigners: There was a fine Concert of +Music during the Dinner, and at Night an _Italian_ Opera. + +The Court did not assemble next Day till the Evening, when there was a +grand Ball, which the King open’d with the Queen: Their Majesties danc’d a +_Polish_ Dance to the Music of Kettle-Drums and Trumpets: When the Dance +was over, the King led the Queen to a Place that was rais’d Three Steps +above the Floor, under a rich Canopy. He then danc’d with the Princess, +who danc’d afterwards with the Queen; and then the Queen danc’d with the +Prince, who danc’d afterwards with the Princess: When all these Dances +were ended, they began Minuets, and the Ball lasted till 2 o’Clock in the +Morning, only it was thrice interrupted by Three Collations, which were +serv’d up by 24 _Polish_ Pages, as many _Saxon_ Pages, and by the same +Number of Moors and Turks, who had all the same Habits as they wore upon +the Day of the Entry, which was a Sight as singular as it was +magnificent. + +The next Day after this Ball, which was the 5th of _September_, a Comedy +was perform’d by _French_ Comedians, who play’d _Ariane_, and _l’Ete des +Coquettes_. + +On the 6th there was a Battle of Beasts in Areas that were built for the +Purpose. + +On the 7th there was a grand _Italian_ Opera, intitul’d _Theophanes_, in +which the famous Musicians _Senesino_ and _Bercelli_ perform’d +surprisingly. The Opera being longer than ordinary, the King, who sat in +the Pit, supp’d there with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses: And at +the same time there were little Tables serv’d in the Boxes for the Ladies. + +There were also several very splendid Feasts on the Days following: On the +10th all these Rejoicings were concluded by a Pastoral, that was play’d in +the Garden of the King’s Palace. There the King supp’d with the Queen and +their Royal Highnesses, and 10 Tables were spread for 20 Guests at each, +and serv’d all with Porcelain for the Court and Foreigners: After Supper +there was a fine Firework play’d, representing the carrying off of the +Golden Fleece: That was the last of the Entertainments I was present at, +and I made ready to set out for _Sicily_, where my Employment required my +Presence: Yet, before I leave _Dresden_, I must say a Word or two +concerning the August Family, which resided there at that time. + +The Royal Family consisted then of but Four Persons, the King, the Queen, +the Electoral Prince and Princess. + +The King is one of the best Princes that I ever knew; ’tis impossible to +see him without being captivated by his graceful Mien; and his Civility +wins the Hearts of all his Courtiers; he has all the Qualities fitting for +a great King: His Father dying without Issue, he succeeded him in the +Electorate of _Saxony_; and soon after, upon the Death of _John Sobieski_, +the _Poles_ chose him for their King: When he was no more than Elector, he +commanded the Emperor’s Army, and gave authentic Proofs of his Wisdom and +Valour. + +The Queen is of the Family of _Brandenbourgh Bareith_, and was espous’d to +the King, even before he was Elector: She is a Princess of a stately Port, +and must have formerly been a Toast, on account of her Beauty, at the Time +when she had more Colour in her Face, and less Flesh upon her Bones than +she has now. She is very fond of Retirement, and bestows great Charities: +She resides commonly at _Torgau_, or at _Pretsch_, and comes but very +seldom to _Dresden_: She has a separate House from the King’s, which is +very suitable to her Dignity; she has also a separate Chapel, the King +having given her the old Chapel at _Dresden_ and caus’d another to be +built for Himself and the Catholics. + +The Electoral Prince resembles the Queen very much: He is tall and very +well set, and his Air plainly discovers him to be what he is: He delights +very much in Hunting, and those Pleasures that require Exercise; which to +be sure is very serviceable to him, for I thought him inclinable to grow +fat: This Prince was very carefully educated by the Electoress his +Grandmother, who was a Princess of _Denmark_: When he was able to support +the Fatigues of Travelling the King sent him to _Italy_, and from thence +to _France_, with a Retinue becoming the Son of a King; after which the +Prince went to _Vienna_, and ’twas during the Stay he made at the Court +that he had an Opportunity of observing the great Qualities of the +Archduchess, now the Electoral Princess: You’ll judge by the Account I +have had the Honour to give you of this Princess, that it were almost +impossible but she must be very much belov’d at the Court of _Saxony_; and +she soon got the good Wishes of the whole Nation, so that the very People +who conceiv’d some Umbrage at the Prince’s Marriage, for Fear of their +Religion, were quickly reconcil’d to it: For indeed what Violence was +there room to apprehend from a Princess so highly distinguish’d for her +Moderation and Good-nature? + +These, _Madame_, were at the time the whole Royal Family; but now ’tis +augmented by several Princes and Princesses, whom the Electoral Prince has +had by the Princess his Spouse. Tho’ the Royal Family was not numerous +when I was there, yet the Number and Magnificence of the Princes and +Courtiers, who were then at _Dresden_, made it very splendid: I had the +Honour to know most of them very well, and found them all alike, behaving +affable to Foreigners, and agreeable to their Birth: I don’t undertake now +to give you the Characters of those whom I had the Honour to be +particularly acquainted with, being sensible that perhaps it would be a +little too tedious: Nothing remains for me therefore but to give you some +Account of the City of _Dresden_. [11] _Dresden_ is one of the finest +Towns in _Germany_ for its Situation and its Structures; ’tis the Capital +of _Misnia_ in _Upper Saxony_. _Charlemain_ was the first that caus’d it +to be fortify’d; it has been for time out of Mind the ordinary Residence +of the Dukes and Electors of _Saxony_, who have caus’d its Fortifications +to be considerably augmented, and ’tis now a very strong Place: ’Tis +divided by the River _Elbe_ into Two Parts, call’d _The New Town_ and _The +Old Town_. In the latter stands the Prince’s Palace, which was formerly a +very fine Building, but only a Part of it is remaining, the rest being +consum’d by Fire. That which still exists contains very fine Apartments, +which the King has accommodated to the modern Taste, and they are nobly +furnished; but they belong only to the King and Queen; and the Prince and +Princess live in a separate Palace, which communicates therewith by +Galleries: This Palace was built by the Countess of _Cosel_, who liv’d in +it when she was in high Favour. The Rooms are a little of the smallest, +but perfectly well dispos’d, and they are adorn’d with fine Paintings, and +very richly furnish’d: Near the King’s Palace there’s a very fine Garden, +call’d _Zuinger-Garten_, which is semi-circled in the Shape of a +Horse-shoe, with magnificent Buildings that form Arches, over which there +runs an open Gallery, which unites Three large Pavilions: In the +middlemost there’s a fine Grotto, on a Level with the Garden. The upper +Story contains a very beautiful Saloon fac’d with Marble, with gilded +Ornaments; the Ceiling is magnificent; the Windows instead of common Glass +are embellished with very fine large Plate-Glass. The rest of the +Building, which joins to this Garden, is of the same Magnificence, but yet +perhaps a little too much incumber’d with carv’d Work. + +Next to the Garden there is nothing finer to be seen than the King’s +Stables and Riding-House. Over the Stables there are very fine large +Rooms, in which is kept all the Furniture for the Horses: In this Part +there is also a Number of stately Buildings, which render _Old Dresden_ a +very agreeable Place. The Streets are broad, most of them regular and well +pav’d, and great Care is taken to keep up good Government in it. + +This Quarter communicates with the new Town by a very beautiful +Stone-Bridge: The first thing one meets with entring into _New Dresden_ is +a House that belongs to the King, and is call’d _The Palace of_ Holland, +because all the China Ware or Furniture, with which ’tis adorn’d, came +from that Country: The Gardens of this House are very pleasant; and its +Situation most charming by reason of the River _Elbe_, which runs just by +it. + +The Inhabitants of _Dresden_ are Lutherans, as well as those of the rest +of _Saxony_, and the Catholics have not so much as one Church in it; for +the King being not willing to infringe the Laws of the Country, is content +to have one Chapel there for himself and his Family. The Elector of +_Saxony_ bears the Title of _Grand Marshal of the Empire_, and is the +Third in Rank among the Secular Electors. + +Thus, _Madame_, have I given you what I saw most remarkable in the +Electorate of _Saxony_: I own to you, I lik’d the Country very much, and +the Civilities that I had the Honour to receive from the King, made me +wish one while for a Place in his Service; but I made no Attempt for it, +and very seriously bethought myself of my Journey to _Sicily_. + +When I left _Dresden_, I took the Road to MUNICH, to which I made very +great Haste, because I was so teiz’d with my old Ailment, for which _La +Peronie_ had me under Cure at _Paris_, that I did not care to delay, +putting myself into the Hands of a Surgeon: The Person, who undertook me, +was no less a Man than the Elector’s own Surgeon; who indeed gave me Ease +for a few Days, but afterwards I was tormented worse than ever. However, I +took the Opportunity of the easy Intervals I enjoy’d from the Surgeon’s +Remedies to pay my Compliments to the Princes: I accompany’d them in +Hunting and other Parties of Pleasure, as if I had been in perfect Health: +The Count _de Charolois_, who was still at the Court of _Bavaria_, made an +Agreement with the Princes of _Bavaria_, to ride Post to _Saltzbourg_, to +see an _Italian_ Opera, which the Archbishop gave there every Year to +celebrate his Birth-Day: The _Bavarian_ Princes set out first, and lodged +in a paltry Cabaret in the Suburbs, because they had a Mind to be _incog._ +The Count _de Charolois_ set out from _Munich_ at 8 o’Clock at Night, with +only one Gentleman and myself: We rode all Night, and next Day at 5 in the +Evening arriv’d at SALTZBOURG: We alighted at the same Cabaret where the +_Bavarian_ Princes were, and went all together to the Opera: It was begun +before we came, for which I was not a little sorry, because it was a Piece +that was well worth seeing from the Beginning to the End of it: I assure +you, _Madame_, that I never saw any thing so extraordinary: The Theatre, +the Actors, the Performance were all to the utmost Degree ridiculous! The +Opera Room was so low, that the Actors almost touch’d the Ceiling with +their Heads: The Singing and Dancing were something comical: What most +diverted me were the Interludes, which were _executed_ by the Archbishop’s +Pages. They consisted of Three Entries: The first was of Shepherds, who +were known by their Dress; and they had not only Crooks in their Hands, +but Sheep appear’d every now-and-then upon the Scene: The second Entry was +of Huntsmen, who had all Hunting Horns; and while these danc’d, some, who +mov’d the Machine, made the Skins of Hares stuff’d with Straw skip up and +down the Stage: The third was of Fishermen, who carry’d Lines, to which +were fasten’d Trouts; others appear’d with Nets full of live Fish, which +made a very odd Shew, and was certainly the only one of the Kind: I must +not forget to tell you, that, during the Performance, such Complaisance +was shewn to all the Spectators, that they were presented with great +Silver Goblets full of Wine or Beer to refresh them: The Princes diverted +themselves very much with this Piece, and ’twas a long rime before they +could get the Archbishop’s Opera out of their Heads: For my Part, I can +scarce forbear Laughing to this Day, whenever I think on’t. + +Notwithstanding all that the Princes could do to be _incog._ they were +known, and the Archbishop, who was inform’d of their Arrival upon the very +Day, immediately sent one of his Gentlemen to invite them to Supper, +desiring at the same time to be excus’d for not waiting on them in Person, +which he assur’d them he should have done, if he had not been made +acquainted, that they were willing to be _incog._ The _Bavarian_ Princes +were ready enough to accept of the Archbishop’s Supper; and for my own +Part, I had so little Hopes of finding any thing that was good in that +pitiful Cabaret where we were, that I should have been glad with all my +Heart to have been at the Archbishop’s Table. But the Count _de Charolois_ +would by no means accept of the Invitation, and out of Complaisance to +him, the _Bavarian_ Princes refus’d it likewise; however, they paid the +Archbishop a Visit, and the Count _de Charolois_ went along with them by +the Name of the Count _de Dammartin_; I had also the Honour to accompany +them: The Archbishop receiv’d the Princes without any Ceremony, according +to their Desire, and they stood all the time of the Visit, which was very +short. The Princes return’d to the Inn, where we had a Supper, serv’d up +exactly in the _Gout_ of our Opera. Mean time, we had not eaten any thing +for 24 Hours; and to refresh us, the first Dish that was brought in was +Lobsters and a Sallad, and the next a Leveret, which was not dress’d +enough, and therefore we sent it to the Kitchen to be turn’d into a Ragou; +but ’tis probable, that our Cook had not Experience enough to make Ragous; +for he only put our Leveret in a large Kettle of Water, and boil’d it to a +Jelly; and in this Condition it was serv’d up: This insipid Dish was +follow’d by a Couple of Ducks and Four Thrushes. Notwithstanding the +Scantiness of this Repast, they did not rise from Table till late at +Night, and then the Princes of _Bavaria_ went to Bed, but as for the Count +_de Charolois_, he would stay in the Place no longer than he had supp’d, +and I had the Honour to go off with him. We return’d to _Munich_, but went +by the way of _Alten-Ottingen_, in order to see the Treasure that is kept +in the Vestry of the miraculous Chapel of the Virgin: This Treasure, which +contain’d very fine Things, was inrich’d with Abundance of noble +Presents, made by most of the Sovereigns in _Europe_. From thence we set +out for _Munich_, where we arriv’d after a Ramble of Three Days and as +many Nights, in which we could boast of having travell’d near 40 _German_ +Leagues, to see the most scoundrel Opera that could ever be imagin’d. + +The Fatigue of this Journey made my Disorder much worse: The Surgeons at +_Munich_ even refus’d to take me in hand, and all my Friends advis’d me to +make a Tour to _Paris_, where the most able Professors in Arts of all +Sorts are more easy to be found. I was very loth to take their Advice, for +’twas high time for me to think of going to my Regiment, and I was afraid, +that by a longer Delay I should suffer: At the same time I was so horribly +plagued by my Distemper, that I resolv’d to go to _Paris_. But, before I +set out, I wrote to the Count _de S----_, to tell him the Condition I was +in, tho’ I assur’d him that I would stay no longer at _Paris_ than was +necessary for my Cure. Whether my Declaration was relish’d or not I can’t +tell; all that I know for certain is, that I receiv’d no Answer. I was +sorry to leave _Munich_, and no doubt, _Madame_, you are surpriz’d to find +me going for _Paris_, as it were in spite of my Will, and I assure you, +that I made Reflections upon my Indifference for this City, in which I +always found so many things to charm me, tho’ I was fully sensible, that +the Miscarriage I had in all my Undertakings was the thing that made me +heartily weary of staying in it. + + * * * * * + +This therefore was the first time that I may say I set out for _Paris_ +with Regret: I went thither by the way of _Strasbourg_, and when I +arriv’d I put myself again into the Hands of _la Peronie_, who in less +than a Month’s Time made me sound! During that Space I notify’d my Arrival +to some particular Friends, who kept me Company till I was perfectly +cur’d. They told me surprizing News, of which I had already been informed +by several Letters; but ’twas all so improbable, I never could believe it +to be true. Millions was the Word in every body’s Mouth, and he that was +but a Lackey one Day, was the next a Lord. ’Twas sufficient only to be +seen in the famous Street of _Quinquempoix_, and unless you were quite +forsaken by your Guardian Angel, you were sure of going off of the Place +with immense Wealth. I was advis’d to do as others did, and to try if +Fortune was still resolv’d to frown upon me: A great many Persons were +nam’d to me that had actually got Millions, who came first into the Street +with almost nothing in their Pockets; that was my Case exactly: But the +Hopes of good Luck made me resolve to try my Fortune, as soon as I was +able to stir abroad: And thither I actually went, and put myself in the +Rank with those who sacrific’d to Fortune: I had the best Luck in the +World at first setting out, and without knowing how or which way, found +myself possess’d in a little time of a considerable Sum, such that I am +even asham’d to tell you how much it amounted to, since you would +absolutely pronounce me a Madman, for not knowing when I had enough; but +in short I began so well, that I thought it would be cowardly to stop, and +therefore I push’d on; but was quickly sensible that I had committed a +gross Blunder in not drawing back; for my Millions vanish’d almost in the +same manner as they came, and without knowing why or wherefore, I found my +Purse empty, and was forc’d, whether I would or no, to renounce that Sort +of Negociation. + +While the domestic Affairs of the Kingdom were in this Fluctuation, the +Army of _France_ press’d the _Spaniards_ very hard. The Campaign in +_Navarre_ prov’d very successful. I have already had the Honour to +acquaint you of the Taking of _Fontarabia_, which was follow’d soon after +by the Conquest of _St. Sebastian_. The _Germans_ on their Part made +themselves Masters of almost all _Sicily_, so that the King of _Spain_ +seem’d almost reduced to a Necessity of demanding Peace, and that very +soon. Cardinal _Alberoni_ was not disturb’d at the Advantages of his +Enemy, and had a very great Dependence on the Uneasiness of the People of +_Bretagne_, where he had a Party actually form’d, that was to declare +openly against _Spain_, upon the first Motion which that Crown should make +towards the Coasts of that Province. The Cardinal caus’d the Duke of +_Ormond_ to sail to that Province, but ’twas to no Purpose; for the Regent +had been appriz’d of all these Schemes, and so well concerted his +Measures, that ’twas impossible for the Duke of _Ormond_ to undertake any +thing on that Side. Nevertheless, some Malecontent _Bretons_, who were +Refugees in _Spain_, assur’d me, that if the Duke had arriv’d sooner, the +Blow would not have fail’d, the whole Province would have revolted, and +caus’d the States General to assemble, and declare the King of _Spain_ +Regent. For my Part, who knew all the Leaders of this Party full well, I +did not think the Success of this Affair so very sure. Those Gentlemen +were indeed Persons of a great deal of Sense, but of stronger Passions; +and to say all in a few Words, they play’d at high Game, to think of +surprizing the Regent! His Wisdom prevented all the Calamities which the +Kingdom was threaten’d with: He sent a Sovereign Court to _Bretagne_, of +which _M. de Chateauneuf_ was President, and he supported its Authority by +a Body of Troops under the Command of the Marshal _de Montesquiou_. They +began to make a Search after the Authors of the Rebellion, and ’twas +expected that a great deal of Blood would be spilt, yet there were only a +few Gentlemen, who paid for all with the Loss of their Heads. They say, +that among those Gentlemen One might have escap’d, if he had thought fit; +but when he was going on board, and saw the Waves very swelling, he +remember’d that some body had told him, he should perish _par la Mer_, i. +e. by Sea, and the Fear of Drowning made him turn back, so that he was +apprehended, and had his Head cut off by a Hangman, whose Name was _la +Mer_. A great Matter of Triumph this was to the Fortune-tellers! + +Besides these, Warrants were issued against several other Gentlemen, but +they being not afraid of the Sea, made no Scruple to expose themselves to +it: Some fled to _Spain_, and some to _Hanover_, where the King of +_England_ granted them an _Asylum_, without violating the Alliance made +with _France_, which imported, that the Two Kings should give no Shelter +in their Kingdoms to the revolted Subjects of either; for the Duchy of +_Hanover_ being an Electorate, was not included in this Treaty. + +’Twas well for a great many People of _Bretagne_, that Warrants were +issued out against them; for most of them had but little to leave behind, +and they were receiv’d in _Spain_ as Persons that had sacrific’d their All +for that Crown. Most of these were made Colonels by the Cardinal, tho’ he +knew not whether they had ever been in the Service, while others, that had +really abandoned considerable Estates, were so unfortunate as to have the +least Reward. + + * * * * * + +These were the Transactions at _Paris_ during the little time I stay’d +there; for as soon as I found myself able to walk, I set out in good +earnest for _Sicily_; but not being quite well enough to ride Post, I made +but short Days journeys. I lay the first Night at _Melun_, and din’d the +next Day at MORET, which is a Village near _Fontainebleau_, with a +Convent, where they say, that the Negro Princess, of whom the Queen _Mary +Theresa_ was deliver’d, is a Nun. + + * * * * * + +From _Moret_ I went to _Sens_, and from thence to AUXERRE, which City I +found in an Uproar, on account of a very tragical Adventure: A Baker +having been very familiar for some time with the Wife of a Pastry-cook, +was reproach’d for it by his own Wife, who even threaten’d she would make +him smart for it; but the Baker, not at all terrify’d by her Menaces, +proceeded in his Amour as usual; while his Wife being desperate, and +raging with Jealousy to find herself depriv’d of conjugal Duty, was +resolv’d her Rival should not have the Pleasure of his Company any longer; +and therefore, as he was one Night in Bed with her, she took a Razor, and +shav’d him so close, that it was no more in his Power to give her any +Jealousy. The poor Man was in a very bad way when I happen’d to be at +_Auxerre_. I had this Story from my Landlady, where I quarter’d, who told +it me not without great Lamentation. + +From _Auxerre_ I went to DIJON[12], the Capital of _Burgundy_, and the +Seat of the Parliament and of the Governor of the Province. In this City +the States of _Burgundy_ hold their Assemblies, and the Duke of +_Burgundy_, who is Governor of the Province, commonly presides there in +the King’s Name. The Parliament of the Province was establish’d here by +_Philip_ Duke of _Burgundy_, and confirm’d by _Lewis_ XI. Here is also a +Chamber of Accompts, a Mint, and a Presidial Court. + +’Tis a very fine Country from _Dijon_ to _Chalons_[13], all along by those +excellent Vineyards which produce the choicest Wines of _Burgundy_. At +_Chalons_ I found a Conveniency to go to _Lyons_: The Road is the finest +that can be travell’d, for we go all the Way by the River _Saone_, which +forms the most charming Vista, and with the greatest Variety of Prospects +that can be imagin’d. I pass’d by _Trevoux_, the Capital of the +Principality of _Dombes_, which belongs to the Duke of _Maine_, to whom it +was given as a Legacy by the last Will and Testament of the late +_Madamoseille_ of _France_, Daughter to the late _Gaston_ Duke of +_Orleans_. + + * * * * * + +From _Trevoux_ ’tis but a few Days Journey to LYONS: Before we come to +this City, one sees upon the Right Hand of the Road that dismal Castle of +_Pierre-Encise_, to which those Criminals are commonly sent, who are +condemned to perpetual Imprisonment. + +LYONS[14] is the Capital of the _Lyonnois_, on the Conflux of the _Rhone_ +the _Saone_. ’Tis one of the finest and most magnificent Cities in +_France_: Its Situation is charming, its Squares superb, and its +Buildings, both sacred and profane, very noble. _St. John_’s which is the +Cathedral Church, is a magnificent Structure of _Gothic_ Architecture, +where, among other Remarkables, is that fine Clock, which is reckon’d a +Master-piece. The Canons have the Title of _Counts of_ Lyons, and are +oblig’d to produce the same Proofs of their Qualification as the Knights +of _Malta_. + +The Town-House is one of the most magnificent Buildings of the kind, and I +know of none but the Stadthouse at _Amsterdam_ that exceeds it. The Square +in which ’tis built is call’d _la Place des Terreaux_: ’Tis a very +beautiful Quadrangular Structure; and there is to be seen the fine Abby of +the Ladies of _St. Peter_, now in Possession of a Daughter of the _Marshal +de Villeroy_. + +The Square of _Bellecour_ is the finest Part of all the City; ’tis adorn’d +with an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. erected upon a Pedestal of white +Marble, at the Expence of the _Marshal de Villeroy_, Governor of _Lyons_ +and the _Lyonnois_, in Acknowledgment of that Monarch’s continued Favours +to him and all his Family. + +After one is out of the Square of _Bellecour_, we come to the magnificent +Stone-Bridge, which unites the Two Quarters of the City that are separated +by the _Saone_. As we go off this Bridge, we advance upon a stately Key, +that runs along the River, and is call’d the _Villeroy Key_, because it +was built by Order of the Marshal of that Name. The Family of _Villeroy_ +is mightily belov’d and respected throughout the _Lyonnois_, and while I +was there, all the Dignities of this Province were fill’d by one Gentleman +or other of that Name. The Marshal himself was the Governor, and the +Reversion of his Post was secur’d to his Son the Duke _de Villeroy_, and +to the Dukes of _Rets_ and _Alincourt_ his Grandsons: The latter of these +is Lieutenant-General of the Province: The Archbishoprick was occupy’d by +one of the Marshal’s Sons, as the Abby of the Nuns of _St. Peter_ was by +one of his Daughters. + +The Commerce of _Lyons_ is still very flourishing, tho’ it was much more +so before the famous Scheme of the Bank Bills, which did great Detriment +to its Manufactures: Yet for all that, there’s not a Town in _France_ +where there are such wealthy Merchants: Their Conversation too is very +amiable, and they live for most Part like People of Rank; I don’t mean in +Point of Magnificence, for which there needs nothing but Money, but by +reason of their easy and polite Behaviour, which always denotes a good +Education. + + * * * * * + +I embark’d on the _Rhone_ at _Lyons_ for _Avignon_: There are considerable +Towns upon this River which yield noble Prospects: Such is the City of +VIENNE, the Capital of the _Viennois_, with the Title of an +Archbishoprick: Here are stately Vestigies of the Magnificence of the +_Romans_, who spar’d no Cost to render this a considerable Place: We are +assur’d, that _Pilate_ was banish’d hither, and they even shew a House, +Half a League or more from the City, where ’tis said he liv’d. But I +should be glad to know in the first Place, Whether ’tis really true that +he ever came into this City? You may believe as much of it as you please. + + * * * * * + +From _Vienne_ I proceeded to _Valence_ and PONT ST. ESPRIT: In this latter +Town I saw that noble Bridge which is the Admiration of all Foreigners; +’tis one of the finest and most stately in _Europe_: It has 23 Arches, the +Pillars of which are very large with Overtures, in the Nature of Doors, to +give a freer Passage to the _Rhone_ when its Waters swell. They say, that +in these Pillars there are Vaults, where they us’d to put the Fanatics of +the _Cevennes_: The Passage of this Bridge is defended by a Citadel. + + * * * * * + +From _Pont St. Esprit_ ’tis but a little way to AVIGNON, which is a City +of _Provence_ that belongs to the Pope. _Clement_ VI. purchas’d it of +_Joan_ Queen of _Provence_ for a very moderate Sum; since which time it +has ever been subject to the Holy See. The Popes made it the Place of +their Residence for above 70 Years; but _Gregory_ XI. re-establish’d the +Holy See at _Rome_ about the Year 1377. Several Factions arising +afterwards among the Christian Princes on account of the Election of the +Popes, some of the Anti-Popes liv’d here. The Cathedral, which is +magnificent tho’ very ancient, is dedicated to our Lady of _Dombes_. +_Avignon_ is in general a very well built City, the Streets being broad, +strait and lightsome. The adjacent Country is charming and very fruitful, +and I thought there was nothing wanting in it but a greater Number of +Inhabitants. + + * * * * * + +I took Post at _Avignon_, and went to AIX, which is the Capital of +_Provence_, and an Archbishop’s See; there are also a Parliament and an +University: This is without Dispute one of the finest Towns in the +Kingdom: I was charm’d with the Beauty of the _Course_, which is the +Rendezvous of People in the Summer Evenings: ’Tis in the middle of a fine +spacious Street, the Houses whereof are truly magnificent, and several +beautiful Rows of Trees adorn’d with Fountains make it a very pleasant +Walk. The middle Row, which is separated from the rest by a Rail, is for +the Foot Passengers. From one End of the Course there’s a Prospect of the +Country, and the other is limited by the City. At the End next to the +Country there’s a Fountain, and a Balustrade of white Marble Breast-high. +There’s another Course without the City, which is bigger than the former, +and every whit as beautiful. The Metropolitan Church of _St. Saviour_ is +remarkable for its Baptismal Font, which is a Piece of admirable +Structure: ’Tis all of white Marble, supported by filetted Columns, that +compass it in Form of a little Dome. This Church has a very high Tower, +which is a _Hexagon_, and much esteem’d by good Judges. + +The Palace where the Parliament assembles is a noble Building, in the +Rooms whereof no Cost has been spar’d for Gilding, Painting and Carving. +The great Hall is adorn’d with Hangings of blue Velvet, sprinkled with +_Fleurs de Lys_ of Gold: The King’s Throne with the upper and lower Seats +are cover’d with the like Tapistry: The Persons that compose the +Parliament of _Aix_ are almost all Men of Quality, which contributes very +much to make a Man’s Residence here agreeable: The Nobility in this Place +live with Distinction. Besides the Parties made for Gaming, and the Walks, +there are Concerts of Music upon certain Days of the Week, to which +Foreigners are admitted _Gratis_, the Musicians being paid by a certain +Number of People of Quality, who hire them for the whole Season. + +After Five or Six Days Stay at _Aix_, I set out for MARSEILLES: This is an +Episcopal City of _Provence_, which by being situate on the +_Mediterranean_ is one of the most considerable Cities in _France_ for +Commerce, and engrosses almost the whole Trade of the _Levant_. ’Tis +divided into the upper and lower Towns: The former is the _Old +Marseilles_, the Houses of which are very dark, and the Streets narrow and +very irregular. In this Part stands the Cathedral of our Lady _la Major_. + +The Lower Town is very fine, the Streets broad, most of ’em strait, and +the Houses very magnificent, especially those by the Side of the _Course_, +which is one of the finest in the World: ’Tis very much like that at +_Aix_. This Part of _Marseilles_ owes its Embellishment and Aggrandizement +to _Lewis_ XIV. who caus’d Works to be erected there worthy of so great a +Prince. _Marseilles_ has a noble Harbour, it being a large Bason, almost +encompass’d with Houses, and defended by Two Castles, of which that on the +Right Hand is very high, and commands a great way at Sea: That on the Left +contains the Arsenal, which is one of the finest that I have seen, and +every thing in it is so regularly dispos’d, that it forms a charming View. + +The Harbour of _Marseilles_ is the Station for the King’s Galleys, on +board of which there’s a great Number of Slaves, who do almost all the +hard Work; they load and unload the Ships: Some of ’em are allow’d to walk +about the Town and to trade, but are obliged to pay something to the Man +that accompanies them, and to lie aboard at Night. Others, who are charg’d +with enormous Crimes, are fasten’d Two, Three and Four together to great +Chains, which does not hinder them however from working for their +Livelihood. The great Trade of _Marseilles_ and the Wealth of its +Inhabitants give this City an Air of Opulence, which is seldom to be found +elsewhere: There is hardly a Place where one meets with better Chear, and +where ’tis easier to be accommodated with every thing that a Gentleman can +desire to pass his Time agreeably. Comedies, Concerts, Gaming, Taking the +Air, in short, Pleasures of all Sorts make this a most charming Place to +live in, even for People that are ever so opposite to one another in +Characters and Temper. + +The Suburbs of _Marseilles_ are magnificent: They contain above 20,000 +little Houses, call’d by the Country-people _Bastides_, and all +encompass’d with very fine Vineyards and Gardens, which render these +Habitations very charming in the fine Weather. ’Twas to these Houses that +most of the Inhabitants retir’d during the last Plague with which +_Provence_ was afflicted, and which held so long as to carry off a great +Part of the Citizens. This Desolation would have been much greater, and +would perhaps have penetrated into the Heart of _France_, had it not been +for the great Care taken by the Regent, that no Correspondence should be +kept with the People of _Marseilles_. + +_Provence_ in general is a fine Country, and a very pleasant Place to live +in at all times, but especially in the Winter. At that time too the Sky is +clearest, and there are then some Days, which naturally ought rather to be +plac’d to the Account of Summer. I remember I was walking on the Harbour +of _Marseilles_ one Day in this Season at 2 or 3 o’Clock in the Afternoon, +and that I was forc’d to withdraw, the Weather was so hot. Yet I observ’d +that not many Days after a Wind arose, (that the People of the Country +call _Mistral_) which was extremely cold, and the more disagreeable to me, +because ’tis not easy to get warm in this Country, here being no Wood but +some Roots or Branches of Olive-trees, which do not make a very good Fire. +Besides, most of the Rooms, especially in the Inns, are without Chimneys, +so that one is oblig’d to make Use of a Pan of Coals, which is very +inconvenient, to such especially as are not us’d to this Method of warming +themselves. + +After having for a few Days saunter’d in and about _Marseilles_, I thought +it proper to inquire what Ship was bound to _Sicily_; but with all my +Inquiry, I could not find out any, and was under a Necessity of going +either to _Genoa_ or _Leghorn_. I was assur’d that ’twas but a little way, +and that I should be there in a very few Days, so that I agreed for my +Passage with a Merchant that was bound to _Leghorn_. The contrary Wind +kept us a Fortnight in the Harbour, and then we sail’d; but were forc’d to +put into _La Cienta_, a little Town and Port of _Provence_. There I stayed +Three Days for a fair Wind, to proceed in my Voyage, and at last finding +’twas to no Purpose, I resolv’d to leave my Trunks and Servants aboard the +Ship, and to go by Land. + + * * * * * + +The first Day I went and lay at TOULON a City of _Provence_, and one of +the best Harbours in _Europe_. In this Harbour lie the King’s Ships, and +here is the great Arsenal of the Admiralty of _France_, where _Lewis_ XIV. +caus’d Works to be made worthy of so great a Monarch. The Road of _Toulon_ +is as considerable as the Harbour, and Ships ride there perfectly safe. +They say, ’tis large enough to contain all the Ships in the +_Mediterranean_. The City of itself is but small, and were it not for the +Sea-Officers, ’twould be a melancholy Place to live in. These Gentlemen +have caused a House to be erected here, which serves for their Assemblies, +it being composed of several Rooms very well adorn’d. Here are the +Pictures of the Count _de Tholouse_ great Admiral, the Marshals _de Tesse_ +and _de Etrees_, and several Generals and naval Officers; together with +noble Sea-Charts. Here one is always sure to find Company enough, and that +which is select. At Night they meet in these Rooms, where is all manner of +Play: The Sea-Officers make the Entertainments, in which they acquit +themselves with all possible Grace and Politeness; and a Foreigner is +always so heartily welcome there, that they strive who shall treat him +with most Civility. + +You know, _Madame_, that the Allies attempted to make themselves Masters +of _Toulon_, during the last War. The Duke of _Savoy_ came first before +the Place, but was soon oblig’d to raise the Siege, for Want of being +supported by the _English_ Fleet, which was kept back by contrary Winds. +Others impute the Raising of this Siege to the Menaces of _Charles_ XII. +of _Sweden_, who was at that time in _Saxony_, to declare for _France_, if +the Duke of _Savoy_’s Army stay’d any longer before _Toulon_. Be this as +it will, the Duke’s Forces retir’d, after having lost some of their +principal Officers, among others the brave Prince of _Saxe-Gotha_, Brother +to the Reigning Duke, who was kill’d as he went to take a View of the +Place. + +From _Toulon_ I went to FREJUS, a Town upon the Sea; ’tis very ancient, +and the Citizens pretend that most of its old Monuments were built by the +_Romans_: Such are the Ruins of a Causey, that reach’d as far as _Arles_, +near the Mouth of the _Rhone_, and the Remains of an ancient _Circus_, +which seems to have been a very spacious one. ’Tis said that a great +Aqueduct in the Neighbourhood brought as much Water to it from the +Distance of 10 Leagues, as was sufficient to support a Naval Combat within +the Circumference of this _Circus_. Going out of _Frejus_ there’s a long +Mole or Causey cut by several small Canals, over which there are Bridges, +said to have been made by the _Romans_. + + * * * * * + +As I pursued my Journey, I pass’d near ANTIBES, a strong Place on the +Sea-Shore, which was heretofore the See of a Bishop, till it was +translated to _Grasse_ in _Upper Provence_. From thence I cross’d the +_Var_, which River separates _France_ from the Dominions of the King of +_Sardinia_; and the Fourth Day after my Departure I arriv’d at _Nice_. + + * * * * * + +NICE was formerly very well fortify’d, and its Castle especially was +reckon’d impregnable; for it bravely held out against the Army of +_Francis_ I. and that of _Barbarossa_ the _Turk_ in 1543. But _Lewis_ XIV. +had better Success, for he made himself Master both of the City and of the +Castle, which he caus’d to be intirely demolish’d; and having also caus’d +the other Fortifications of the Town to be destroy’d, he restor’d it in +this Condition to its Sovereign. At _Nice_ we begin to see Orange-trees in +such Abundance, that they grow in the open Fields like other common +Trees, and they bear Fruit alike both in Summer and Winter. + +As ’twas very fine Weather when I arriv’d at _Nice_, I was advis’d to go +on board, in order to avoid the bad Roads in the Passage of the Mountains; +I took the Advice, and went on board a small Vessel, that was navigated by +only Two Men; but I soon repented of it, for in Half an Hour after we put +off to Sea we had bad Weather, in which I had like to have been cast away, +and ’twas not less than a Miracle that I arriv’d at VILLA-FRANCA, a small +Sea-Port in the County of _Nice_. + +This Town is remarkable for nothing but its Harbour, which contains Six of +the King of _Sardinia_’s Galleys: ’Twas here that this Prince embark’d +with his Queen and his whole Court, when he went to take Possession of +_Sicily_: And after their Majesties had been consecrated and crown’d at +_Palermo_, they came and landed at _Villa-Franca_ in their Return to +_Turin_. The Night that I came to this Town there happen’d a terrible +Storm, which abated indeed next Day, but the Sea was still in such a Foam, +that I did not care to trust it. The Day following proving however as fair +as one could desire, I immediately put to Sea, but fell into the same +Danger as I had been expos’d to before. The Winds, or rather all the +Devils in the Air, were let loose against me; I was, I confess to you, +cruelly afraid, especially when I saw my Pilots change Countenance. +Nevertheless, I put on the Air of a Man of Courage, told ’em the Danger +was not so great as they apprehended, and that they need not be +discourag’d. In short, I don’t remember every thing that I said to ’em, +and perhaps too my Language was not so coherent as if I had been upon +_Terra Firma_. Whatever it was, I arriv’d safe at MONACO, a little Town +which belongs to a Prince of that Name. The Castle, which looks towards +the Sea, is built in the _Italian_ Taste, but is a very plain Building. +There is a _French_ Garison in the Town, which is a Detachment from the +Garison of _Antibes_. The Prince of _Monaco_, who is Sovereign of the +Country, marry’d a Princess of _Lorrain_, by whom he only had Daughters. +He marry’d the Eldest of them, and the Heiress of all his Estate, to the +Duke _de Valentinois_, Son to _M. de Matignon_. + + * * * * * + +From _Monaco_ I went to _St. Remo_, the first Town in the Dominions of +_Genoa_, where I took a Boat, which carry’d me to SAVONA, a City in the +State of _Genoa_, with the Title of a Bishoprick. This is one of the best +Towns in the Republic, and without Dispute the safest Sea-Port in its +Dominions. The _Genoese_ have caus’d a City to be built here with Two +Fortresses, and several other Works, which render it a Place of very great +Importance to the Republic. + +I was so heartily out of Conceit with the Sea, that I hir’d Mules to carry +me to _Genoa_, whither Two Thirds of the Road are scarce passable, by +reason of the continual Ascents and Descents, which are very fatiguing. +The only thing that made my Journey agreeable was, riding all along by the +Sea-side, which being cover’d with Shipping, forms a very fine Prospect. +After one has travell’d some Leagues from _Genoa_, the Road becomes very +good; for besides that the Way is very even, one sees a great many noble +Houses, with Gardens in Form of Terrace-Walks, which compose one of the +most stately Amphitheatres that can be seen, and so it is all the Way to +_Genoa_. + + * * * * * + +GENOA is an Archbishoprick, the Capital of the State of _Genoa_, and the +ordinary Residence of the Doge and Senate. ’Tis the finest and most +magnificent City in _Italy_; ’tis not very long that this Republic has +enjoy’d its Liberty, it being the famous _Andrew Doria_ who acquir’d it +for his Country during the Reign of _Francis_ I. King of _France_, to whom +_Genoa_ was subject. Since that time this City is very much increas’d: I +enter’d it by the Gate adjoining to the Mole, which in my Opinion is the +most proper Entrance, to give a Stranger at the first View a grand Idea of +_Genoa_. I was amaz’d at the Magnificence of this Mole, and at the Beauty +of the Harbour, which is surrounded with fine Houses, built in Form of an +Amphitheatre. But nothing can compare with the Church of the _Annunciade_, +where nought is to be seen but Gold, Marble, and the richest Paintings and +Sculptures. At the very first Entrance one sees Two Rows of chamfer’d +Pillars, of red vein’d Marble, lin’d with white Marble; the Capitals of +the Columns are all over gilt, and they support a Dome, which is also +gilt, and inrich’d with very fine Paintings. The Pavement is of Squares of +Marble in Compartments. I don’t undertake to give a farther Detail of the +Beauties of this Church, the same having been already so exactly related +by so many Travellers, that it would be only a Repetition of what has been +said a hundred times over. + +The Streets of _Genoa_ are, properly speaking, rather Galleries than +Streets, there being nothing but Structures and Palaces of the utmost +Magnificence, look which way one will. That which struck me most of all +was the Palace of _Balbi_; I never saw any so regular, and with Fronts so +conformable to the Rules of Architecture; but then it must be consider’d, +’tis in this grand Outside only that all the Magnificence of the Houses of +_Genoa_ consists; for when you enter into one of the greatest and richest +Palaces, there’s not a Mortal to be seen, so that one would think there +are no Domestics, and sometimes ’tis a difficult Matter to find the Master +of the House. In a Word, the great Houses of _Genoa_ are mere Solitudes, +excepting on Assembly Days, of which there are some held here every +Evening at the House of one Nobleman or another. Then the Apartments are +nobly illuminated, and there’s all manner of Refreshments serv’d up in +Profusion. Assemblies of this kind, and a sorry _Italian_ Opera, were all +the Pleasures at _Genoa_ while I was there; so that a Stranger does not +know what to do here with his Time. Here are also very few Entertainments +made, and the Envoys, who are generally they that make the most, conform, +when they are at _Genoa_, to the Temper of the People, which is to give +their Guests nothing to eat or drink. In my time there was none here but +the _English_ Envoy, who did not follow that Custom, for ’twas a Pleasure +to him to treat his Friends with good Cheer. + +While I was at _Genoa_ the Republic chose a new Doge: I saw him go to the +Cathedral, and take the usual Oath: The Procession was on Foot; ’twas +begun by some of the Doge’s Officers, after whom Eight Pages, in Habits of +crimson Velvet lac’d with Gold, went before the Doge, who was dress’d in a +long Robe of crimson Velvet, with a Sort of square Cap of the same: He was +supported by the General of the _Genoese_ Arms on his Right Hand, and by +another Officer of the Republic on his Left Hand, and he walk’d between +Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_. The Senators follow’d two and two, +dress’d in long Gowns of black Velvet. The Archbishop met the Doge about +the middle of the Church, where was a Cushion of crimson Velvet for the +Doge, and other Cushions for the Senators, who all kneel’d down as well as +the Doge, and after a short Prayer the Archbishop led the Doge up to the +Altar; then the Prelate took the Book of the Gospels, and presented it to +the Doge, who, falling on his Knees, and laying his Hand on the Book, took +an Oath to maintain the Republic in their Rights and Privileges; this +done, the Doge return’d to his Palace, where he was complimented by all +the Senators, and crown’d Doge of _Genoa_, and King of _Corsica_: Next Day +he gave a great Feast to above 300 Persons. + +The Doge of _Genoa_ is a living Example of the Instability of human +Grandeur: His lasts but Two Years, at the Expiration of which Word is +brought to him, that his Time is out, and that he must quit the Ducal +Palace, and retire to his own. A Man to be a Doge must be completely 50 +Years of Age: You know how very much his Authority is limited; he can do +neither Good nor Harm; the only Occasion wherein he makes a little Figure +is, when he receives and dispatches Ambassadors in Ceremony. + +Another Office, which is even less durable, is that of General of the +Arms, which no one Man can exercise above Two Months, for Fear, no doubt, +lest he who is invested with it should acquire too much Power. + +This Republic was formerly very much inclin’d to espouse the Interests of +_Spain_, when that Crown possess’d the _Milanese_, and the Kingdom of +_Naples_, because most of the _Genoese_ Nobles had their Estates in those +Countries; but now that the same are pass’d under the Emperor’s Dominion, +the Republic is oblig’d to carry it very fair to his Imperial Majesty, or +else the Doge might be sent for to _Vienna_, as he was once by _Lewis_ +XIV. to _Versailles_. + +I was at _Genoa_ when the Republic sent a Galley to _Antibes_, to meet the +famous Cardinal _Alberoni_, who, after having experienc’d the Inconstancy +of Fortune in _Spain_, went to _Italy_, with a Design to retire to the +Duchy of _Parma_, his native Country. The Disgrace of this Cardinal +surpriz’d all _Europe_, except the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent of +_France_, who was the Author of it. During the Truce to which the Cardinal +had prevail’d on the King of _Spain_ to give his Consent, the Duke +improv’d that Interval to negociate that Minister’s Removal; and that he +might succeed the better in his Design, he engag’d the Duke of _Parma_, +who was the Queen of _Spain_’s Father-in-Law and Uncle, to act in Concert +with him, for inducing the King of _Spain_ to put away his Prime Minister. +The Duke of _Parma_ charged _Scotti_, his Minister at _Madrid_, to +negotiate this Affair, in which he met at first with astonishing +Obstacles; but at last the Advantages he promis’d the Queen, on the Part +of the Regent of _France_, both for herself and her Children, crown’d the +Negociation with Success. The Cardinal was dismiss’d, perhaps, with more +Precipitancy than he ought to have been, considering the Attachment he had +always shewn to the Queen, and the Care he had taken to rouse _Spain_ +from the Lethargy into which that Crown was fallen when he was declar’d +Prime Minister. ’Twas on the 5th of _January_ that Cardinal _Alberoni_ +found himself all at once abandon’d by every body, and oblig’d to fly from +a Country where he had appear’d with more Authority than the King himself. +The Order was signify’d to him by Don _Miguel Durand_, Secretary of State, +and was in the very Hand-writing of the King, who deliver’d it to the +Secretary as he was going to the _Pardo_ to hunt. His Catholic Majesty +thereby order’d his Minister to concern himself no more with State +Affairs, to leave _Madrid_ in eight Days, and the Kingdom in three Weeks; +and moreover, the Cardinal was forbid coming all that while to any Place +where the King and Queen were. + +The Disgrace of this Minister cou’d not but be the more pleasing to the +Duke of _Orleans_, because it happen’d at a Time when the Cardinal was +taking his Measures for accommodating Matters with _England_; whither he +had sent _M. de Seissan_, formerly a Colonel in _France_, afterwards +Lieutenant-General in _Poland_, and now Captain-General in _Spain_, to +treat with my Lord _Stanhope_, who was then at the Head of the Affairs of +that Kingdom. _M. de Seissan_ embark’d at the _Groyne_, after having been +detain’d there a good while by contrary Winds: When he was out at Sea, he +met with a severe Tempest, in which he had like to have been cast away; +but at length he arriv’d at _London_. He went immediately to my Lord +_Stanhope_, to whom he was known, and as he was going up Stairs, who +should he meet coming down booted and spurr’d, but the very Courier from +_France_ that brought my Lord _Stanhope_ Letters from the Abbot, +afterwards the Cardinal, _du Bois_, acquainting my Lord of Cardinal +_Alberoni_’s Disgrace. _M. de Seissan_, who knew nothing of the Change +that had been made at the Court of _Madrid_ while he was buffeted and +toss’d about by the Winds and Waves, went in to my Lord _Stanhope_, and +told him, That he was come to surrender himself his Prisoner, because he +came from _Spain_ without a Passport, unless he wou’d receive the _Carte +blanche_ he brought him for Peace, instead of such Passport. At the same +time he produc’d to the _English_ Minister the Full Power which he had +from Cardinal _Alberoni_ to treat of a Peace. My Lord _Stanhope_ did not +interrupt him; but when he had done speaking, he ask’d him if it had been +long since he left _Madrid_: _M. de Seissan_ telling him all the Delays +that had happen’d in his Voyage, my Lord gave him the Abbot _Du Bois_’s +Letter to read. The Envoy of _Spain_ was Thunder-struck when he read this +Letter, and said thereupon to my Lord, That he had nothing to say to all +this, and that he resign’d himself to his Discretion, to deal with him as +he thought fit. My Lord answer’d him very civilly, That he should be sorry +to abuse the Confidence he had repos’d in him, by coming to him without a +Passport, and that he would leave him at his Liberty to return to _Spain:_ +which he did accordingly, without Delay. + +’Twas said that Cardinal _Alberoni_ was so piqu’d against the King and +Queen of _Spain_, that he study’d Revenge; and that therefore as soon as +he was got out of the Kingdom, he wrote to the Regent, to desire his +Protection, and to allure him, that if he would be so good as to give him +Shelter at _Paris_, he would let him into the Detail of the most secret +Affairs of the _Spanish_ Court. I do not think that any Credit ought to be +given to Reports of this Nature, invented for no other End but to blacken +the Reputation of a Minister in Disgrace. Be this as it will, the History +of these Times, whether True or False, does Honour to the Regent; for they +say that this Prince rejected the Cardinal’s Offers, and contented himself +with sending him a Passport, that he might go to _Italy_. I saw him +actually arrive there: He landed in the Dominions of _Genoa_, where his +Eminency, depending on the Public Faith, and upon the gracious Reception +he had from the Republic, which sent a Deputation to meet him, thought +himself perfectly secure. But Fortune, who was in full Cry after him to +run him down, was not content with his being disgrac’d by the King of +_Spain_; for the Pope wrote to the Doge and Senate, demanding that the +Cardinal might be arrested; which was no sooner said than done. Thus, in +less than two Months, this unfortunate Cardinal saw himself banish’d from +a Court where he was the Dispencer of Favours, pillag’d upon the Road, and +depriv’d of all his Papers, in danger of being murder’d by the Miquelets, +and at last arrested in his own Country, where he arriv’d in Confidence +that the Public Faith would have been his Safeguard. If any Events require +Courage to support them, such as these do; but of this Virtue Cardinal +_Alberoni_ had an eminent Share, and I was always astonish’d to see with +what Intrepidity he behav’d in his Adversity. + + * * * * * + +After I had stay’d a while at _Genoa_, I went to _Sarzana_[15], and from +thence to PISA[16], which is a City in the Dominions of _Tuscany_, with a +University and an Archbishoprick, and was formerly a Republic of no small +Consequence in the _Mediterranean_, till it was conquered by the Dukes of +_Tuscany_ of the Family of the _Medicis_, who have ever since remain’d +Masters of it. The City of _Pisa_ has pompous Buildings: The Metropolitan +Church call’d the _Dome_, is of admirable Beauty: ’Tis built in the +_Gothic_ Order, and its Roof is Supported by 76 Marble Pillars: The Dome +and Roof of the Choir are also painted in the _Gothic_ Style. This great +Church is hung all over with Crimson Velvet, adorn’d with broad Gold Lace: +In this Church is a Chapel with a very magnificent Altar, the Antipendium +of which, and the Tabernacle, are solid Silver of admirable Workmanship. +Great Notice is also taken of the Gates of this Church, which are all of +cast Iron, with very fine Basso-Relievo’s upon them, representing +Historical Passages of the old Old Testament. Near this Church is the +great Church-yard, which is encompass’d with a Gallery, whose Walls +painted in Fresco represent the History of the City of _Pisa_. At a small +Distance from this Church-yard is the Baptistery, which is a Chapel built +of a round Figure, in the Form of a Dome, supported by Pillars of Oriental +Granite, bigger and higher than usual: The Pavement and Steps of the Altar +are of very curious Stones inlaid in the Mosaic Manner; and the Preacher’s +Pulpit is an admirable Piece of Work of white Marble. + +St. _Stephen_’s Church is also worthy of the Attention of the curious +Traveller, for its costly Paintings, Gilding, Marble Statues, and +particularly the rich Spoils taken from the Infidels. In this Church meets +the Chapter of the Knights of St. _Stephen_, which was instituted by the +Great Duke _Cosmo_ I. _Anno_ 1561, after he had obtain’d a Victory. The +Knights of this Order must be Noble by four Descents: They make a Vow of +Conjugal Fidelity; and they wear a Red Cross like the Cross of _Malta_, +which is fasten’d to a Red Ribbon as the Golden Fleece is, and the Cross +is also embroider’d upon the Habit and Mantle. Without this Church, in the +Square, is the Statue of the Great Duke _Cosmo_ I. in Brass. + +I carefully examin’d the famous Tower that leans to one Side: ’Tis round, +and incompass’d with white Marble Pillars that support the Galleries that +run round it. I can scarce believe that this Tower was built sloping at +first, and am more apt to think it owing to some violent Earthquake, which +is a Misfortune very frequent in this Part of the World. They say this +Tower is 188 Foot in Height: There’s an Ascent to the Platform or Terrass, +which is encompass’d with Banisters, by a Stair-case of 193 Steps. + +The Country about _Pisa_ is very pleasant: There’s a Grove of Cypress at +its Gates, whose continual Verdure is delightful. You know, _Madame_, that +at _Pisa_ was concluded that famous Treaty between _Alexander_ VII. and +_Lewis_ XIV. wherein the Satisfaction was settled which the Holy Father +was to give the King, for the Affront his Ambassador the Duke of _Crequy_ +had receiv’d at _Rome_. + + * * * * * + +From _Pisa_ I went in a Day to FLORENCE[17], the Capital of _Tuscany_, and +the ordinary Residence of the Great Dukes. ’Tis call’d _Florence the +Fair_, and not without Reason; for ’tis one of the largest and finest +Cities in _Europe_. + +The Cathedral Church is a magnificent and most spacious Pile: The Outside +is fac’d all over with Marble of various Colours: The Inside contains +immense Treasures, in Pictures, Statues, and other most curious Pieces. +Near the Cathedral is a Church commonly call’d the Chapel of the +Baptistery, which is also intirely fac’d with Marble. The Church of the +_Annunciade_ is another Structure in the high Stile; in every Part of +which are stately Paintings, Works in Gold, Brass, _&c._ the whole of the +utmost Delicacy: Yet notwithstanding the Richness of these Buildings, it +may be said without Aggravation, that they are trifling in Comparison with +the stately Church of St. _Lawrence_. ’Tis of a Hexagon Figure: In the +Middle of every Front is a double Pilaster of Jasper, with a Chapiter of +Brass gilt, which supports a Cornice and an Entablature of the same, each +Pilaster representing the Emblems of precious Stones. At the six Angles +there are six Tombs of very costly Marble, and over each a Cushion +sprinkled with precious Stones, which supports very rich Crowns plac’d at +the Foot of the Statues of the Great Dukes: These Statues, which are of +Brass gilt, and twice as big as the Life, are plac’d in Niches of black +Marble. The Pedestals of the six Tombs are overcast with Porphyry and a +sort of Agat call’d Chalcedony, on which are inscrib’d, in Letters of +Gold, the Epitaphs of the Princes whose Bodies are therein contain’d. All +the rest of the Wall is lin’d with the best Marble, and costly Stones +plac’d in Compartiments or Pannels, the Squares of which are of Brass +gilded: The High Altar is of _Lapis Lazuli_ or Azure-stone inrich’d with +Jewels. The Thing which strikes the Eye most of all is the Tabernacle, the +Magnificence whereof is worthy of the rest. In a Word, I take it to be the +only Building that can compare with the famous Temple of _Solomon_, of +which there is so glorious a Description in the Scriptures. + +Every one knows that ’twas the famous _Cosmo di Medicis_ who laid the +Foundations of the Principality of _Florence_, and that ’twas Pope _Pius_ +IV. who gave it the Title of the Great Duchy. When I came hither, the +Great Duke _Cosmo_ III. was still living, who, tho’ very old, had a great +deal of Vigour. He was a Man of the most civil Behaviour in the World, +which, added to his fair Hair, gain’d him the Love and Veneration of all +that approach’d him. I had the Honour to pay my Devoirs to him one +Evening, as I was introduc’d to an Audience of him by his First Minister. +I found him all alone in the Room, standing and leaning against a Table, +upon which were two Wax Candles; After I had made my Obeisance to him, he +cover’d himself, and bad me be cover’d too: I intreated him to humour the +profound Respect I had for his Highness so far as to let me remain +uncover’d; but then he took off his Hat, and press’d me to put on mine, +which I did as soon as he was cover’d, in conformity to this grand Maxim, +That ’tis the Duty of private Men to keep in the Posture which Princes +require of them: But I will own frankly, that it gave me some Uneasiness +to speak with my Hat upon my Head to a Prince of the Great Duke’s Age and +Dignity. His Highness, before he enter’d into Conversation with me, ask’d +me whether I spoke _Italian_? I told him that I could talk it a little, +but that I did not think I understood enough of it to undertake to speak +it in the Presence of so great a Prince as he: To this he made Answer, +_And I can speak some broken French_. Nevertheless, he did me the Honour +to talk with me a good while in that Language, with abundance of +Good-nature. Next Day I got myself introduc’d to the Great Prince by Mr. +_Tyrrel_, a Gentleman of his Bedchamber. The Prince receiv’d me very +kindly, said he remember’d that he had seen _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, my +Cousin, attending the late Queen at _Berlin_, and that he was at my +Mother’s House while he stay’d in _Germany_; and he offer’d me his +Protection upon all Occasions whenever I wanted it. This Prince was +married to a Princess of _Saxe-Lawenbourg_, Dowager of the Prince +_Palatine_ of _Newbourg_, who was the Elector _Palatine_’s Brother. + +The Great Duke _Cosmo_ III. who died in 1723, married _Margaret Louisa_ of +_Orleans_, Daughter of _Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, Brother of +_Lewis_ XIII. by whom he had two Sons and a Daughter. The eldest Son, +whose Name was _Ferdinand de Medicis_, died at _Florence_, _October_ 30, +1713. without any Issue by his Wife, who was _Violante Beatrix_ of +_Bavaria_. The second, now the Great Duke, is _John Gaston de +Medicis_[18]. The Princess, his Sister, is _Anna-Maria-Louisa_ of +_Florence_[19], who married the Elector _Palatine, John William_ of +_Newbourg_; and after that Prince’s Death retir’d to the Dominions of the +Great Duke, in which she usually resides. + +The Palace of the Great Duke is the most stately Building that one can +see. All the Relations of Travellers give very large Descriptions of it, +but they may be all said to come far short of the real State of it. The +Gallery especially is a matchless Piece: ’Tis about 400 Feet long, and has +a Row of antique Statues and Busts on each Side. This Gallery leads into +several Rooms, which are all full of the greatest Curiosities one would +wish to see. In one there are the Pictures of all the famous Painters done +by themselves: The second is adorn’d with Porcellane of all Sorts: There +is a Table too of great Beauty, inlaid with precious Stones. The other +Rooms contain Pictures, Antiquities, and wonderful fine Cabinets of inlaid +Work: I was particularly surpriz’d at a couple of Pictures in Wax in one +of these Rooms, which are both fine Rarities; but the Artist could not +have chose a more melancholy Subject; for the one represents a +Church-yard, and the other a City infected with a Plague. There is no +looking upon these two Pictures without being struck at the same time with +Admiration and Horror. + +There is a Piece that makes Part of the Gallery which is worthy of a nice +Observation: ’Tis an Octagon Saloon pav’d with Marble of various Colours: +The Walls are hung with Crimson Velvet; and the Ceiling of the Dome is +lin’d with Mother of Pearl, which makes a very fine Effect. But among all +the Rarities which this stately Saloon contains, nothing is comparable to +the Great Duke’s famous Diamond: I saw the Model of it, which is all that +they now shew of it; the present King of _Denmark_ being the last Person +to whom the late Great Duke shew’d it in 1769, which creates a Suspicion +that this Diamond is not new at _Florence_: Many People assur’d me it was +sold, and that the Grand Signior was the Purchaser of it. Be it where it +will, the Weight of this Diamond was 139 Carats and a half. + + * * * * * + +After having stay’d some time at _Florence_, I set out for _Rome_, taking +SIENNA in my Way, which is an Archiepiscopal City that makes a Part of +_Tuscany_. The Cathedral Church is built all of black and white Marble. +From _Sienna_ I went to MONTEFIASCONE, a City and Bishoprick in the +Patrimony of St. _Peter_. My Design was to have gone through this Town +without stopping, but the bad Weather oblig’d me to stay at the +Post-house: There was such a deep Snow, and at the same time the Wind was +so high, and the Cold so terrible, that the Inhabitants told me, that in +the Memory of Man they had not known it so violent. I made no great +Scruple to believe them, especially after what happen’d to me at the +Post-house. The Master of the House carry’d me up Stairs into a great +Room, where I found two Gentlemen, the one an _Italian_, the other a +_German_, who were both come from _Rome_, and obliged, as I was, by the +bad Weather to stay at _Montefiascone_. As we were talking together by the +Fire-side, I observ’d a very odd Motion as if we had been rock’d. As I had +never felt an Earthquake, I concluded this to be one; but the _Italian_ +told me the Motion was too regular, and that, to be sure, it proceeded +from some other Cause: And in a very few Moments we were convinc’d that it +was the Wind which shook us in this Manner. As we had Reason to fear that +the House would tumble upon our Heads, we desir’d our Landlord to put us +in some Place where our Lives would not be in so much Danger. The Man +laugh’d to see us so affrighted, and to encourage us he said that his +House had totter’d as much for these 30 Years past, without receiving any +Damage, and that therefore it was like to stand a good while longer: But +this was not Reason sufficient to satisfy me of the Stability of his +House; on the contrary, thought I, an Earthquake which had happen’d to a +House off and on for a matter of 30 Years, must, ere long, bring it to the +Ground: And besides, as I had always met with bad Fortune, it was but +prudent not to expose myself in Harm’s Way; I resolv’d therefore to go +down Stairs, the two Gentlemen in my Company did the same, and our +Landlord carry’d us to an opposite House, where really we were in a worse +Pickle than before. The Fire was no sooner kindled, but we had like to +have been suffocated with the Smoak; and we were fain to set open every +Window and Door, to let in Air; but the Violence of the Wind was such that +we could bear the Room no longer, and we were oblig’d to shift our +Quarters again. We went into the Town, in Hopes of faring better there; +but ’twas our Lot to fall into one of the most detestable +Victualling-Houses in the World; yet we resolv’d to stay there, because +there fortunately happen’d to be a Chimney that did not smoak; but while +we were thinking we should have some Amends for the Cold we had suffer’d +in these Removes, as if it had been decreed that we should have one thing +or another to plague us all Day long, this very Chimney took Fire, which +alarming the Town, every body flock’d to the Place, and by good Luck the +Fire was soon extinguish’d; nevertheless, the Mob join’d in a Halloo +against us, as if we had been the Incendiaries, so that I expected every +Moment we should be sent to Gaol, till we scatter’d our Money, and then +our Fears vanish’d; but the Consequence of all this Noise was, that we +were forbid to have a Fire in our Chamber, so that we were forc’d to put +up with that which was made in one of the nastiest Kitchens that could be. + + * * * * * + +From _Montefiascone_ I went in a Day and half to ROME[20], to which City +all the Way from _Florence_ is over Hills and Mountains: The Roads +belonging to the Dominions of _Tuscany_ are kept in good Order, and Care +has been taken to render them as passable as the Nature of them will +permit, by levelling Hills, and making noble Causeys; but as soon as one +enters the Ecclesiastical State, the Ways are so terribly bad, that ’tis a +hard Matter to get through them. I stopp’d my Chaise about a League from +_Rome_ upon an Eminence, from whence is a Descent to _Ponte-Mole_. There I +cast my Eyes over that great City, and had a Fore-Taste of the Pleasure I +should have, when I came to take my Progress thro’ its several Quarters. +After having satisfy’d this first Curiosity, I proceeded on my Journey: I +pass’d the _Tyber_ over the _Ponte-Mole_, and struck into a pav’d Road, +which carry’d me for a long time between Gardens and Pleasure-houses, till +I came to the famous City of _Rome_. I enter’d it thro’ the Gate _del +Popoli_, which led me into a triangular Square of the same Name, +consisting of Two Rows of very sorry Houses, and of a Third, which is +somewhat better. Here are Two broad Streets, which open in Form of a +Goose’s Foot, and are separated from one another by Two fine Churches of +equal Architecture. In the midst of this Square is the famous Obelisk +erected by _Sixtus_ V. + +From this Square I went to the Custom-house, where I had my Baggage +search’d. There’s a magnificent Front to this Custom-house, which is a +stately Portico, supported by large Pillars of Oriental Granite. As soon +as the Searchers had done rummaging all my Things, I went on to the +_Hotel_ of _Monte d’Or_ on the Square of _Spain_, which is but an +indifferent Place, being a long and very irregular Square encompass’d with +a Parcel of ill-contriv’d Houses, and a Fountain at one End, which serves +for a Watering Place. + +Next Day after my Arrival, my Curiosity carry’d me to visit _St. Peter_’s +Church: The first thing I saw in my Way, going from my Lodgings, was the +Bridge of _St. Angelo_ upon the _Tyber_, which fronts the Castle of the +same Name: This Bridge is of a fine Breadth, with Marble Banisters on each +Side, on which, at proper Distances, are Angels of Marble, of wonderful +Workmanship. The Castle of _St. Angelo_ is, as I have said, over-against +the Bridge: This is a great Tower, encompass’d with Bastions, which serves +as a Citadel to the City of _Rome_, and a Place of Retreat to the Pope in +a time of War or Rebellion; it communicates by a long Gallery with the +_Vatican_ Palace: As we go off of the Bridge of _St. Angelo_, we pass for +some time on the Banks of the _Tyber_, over a Key that is on the left +Hand. From thence we go thro’ several Streets to the famous Square of _St. +Peter_’s Church, which may be term’d the chief Square in the Universe. It +was design’d by the celebrated _Bernini_, and executed in the manner as +it now appears to us by Pope _Alexander_ VII. ’Tis an Oval, encompass’d +with a great Gallery, supported by 324 Pillars of Free-Stone; the Top is +adorn’d with a Balustrade, on which, at proper Spaces, are the Statues of +the Twelve Apostles and other Saints, and the Arms of Pope _Alexander_ +VII. In this Square we see the famous Obelisk, which was rais’d by Order +of _Sixtus_ V. in 1586, in the middle between Two noble Fountains. The +Gallery, that runs round _St. Peter_’s Square, leads on both Sides to the +Portico of the Church, which is a Piece of Work that one can never be +weary of admiring. For whether we consider the Materials, or the Skill of +the Architect by whom it was conducted, they are equally surprizing. The +Pavement of the Portico is of Marble, and the Ceiling of Stucco gilt: It +leads on the Right Hand to the grand Stair-case of the _Vatican_, and +there’s a cover’d Gallery over it, where the Pope appears upon +_Holy-Thursday_ and _Easter-Day_ to anathematize Heretics, Schismatics and +Infidels; and also to bless the People, who at that time are all kneeling +in the Square, and in the Streets which lead to it. The principal Entrance +of the Portico is answerable to the great Gate of the Church, which is of +Brass, and on one Side of it is that call’d _la Porta Santa_, or the Holy +Gate, that is never open’d except on the grand Jubilees, which are only +once in 25 Years. + +But let the Outside of this stately Edifice be as magnificent as it will, +’tis not to compare to the Inside, where is nothing but Gold, Silver, +Brass, Marble, Precious Stones, Paintings and Carvings by the greatest +Masters. In a Word, in this august Temple we see the Master-Pieces of the +most skilful Artists in all manner of Works; and if a Man has never so +little Taste for Curiosities, he will at every Turn discover new Beauties. + +The Plan of this Building is a Cross, with a very spacious and lofty Dome +in the middle; the Ceiling of which is gilded and painted in _Mosaic_. +Under this Dome stands the High Altar, which is not to be parallel’d for +its Magnificence: ’Tis rais’d some Steps from the Ground, and stands by +itself; there is none but the Pope, or, in his Absence, the Dean of the +sacred College, that can say Mass at it: Four wreathed Columns of Brass, +with Vine-Leaves twining about them, support a superb Canopy or Pavilion, +which is intirely of Brass: ’Tis adorn’d with _Basso-Relievo_’s, and +especially of Bees, to denote the Arms of Pope _Urban_ VIII. of the +_Barberini_ Family, who caus’d this noble Pavilion to be erected. Over +each Pillar is an Angel of Brass gilt, 17 Feet high. The Cornices of the +Pillars are wide enough for Children to play and walk between them: Under +the Altar is the Tomb of the Apostles _St. Peter_ and _St. Paul_, to which +is a Descent by Two Flights of Marble Steps, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The +whole is adorn’d with Compartments of Marble and precious Stones, the +Workmanship of which even surpasses the Beauty of the Materials. These +Steps are encompass’d with Banisters of Brass, on which a great Number of +Silver Lamps is perpetually burning, except on _Good Friday_. + +_St. Peter_’s Chair is over-against the great Altar; ’tis all of Brass, +and very high; ’tis supported by the Four Fathers of the Church, whose +Colossal Statues are of Brass gilt: Over the Chair is a Glory of Brass, +which reaches to the Roof, and underneath is a magnificent Altar, on the +Sides whereof are Two Tombs of Popes. + +I have already done myself the Honour to acquaint you, that I did not +propose to give a particular Detail of all the fine Things which most of +the _Italian_ Cities, and especially _Rome_, offer to the Eyes of the +curious Spectator; for I should in that case only repeat what a hundred +Travellers have already describ’d at large; I therefore silently pass over +several Monuments, with which you are perfectly acquainted, by the reading +of several Travels to _Italy_: I will only tell you by the way, that I was +astonish’d at the Beauty of the Tomb of the famous _Christina_ Queen of +_Sweden_, who, after having made a voluntary Resignation of her Crown, and +turn’d Catholic, at last fix’d her Residence at _Rome_, where she dy’d. +This Princess was interr’d in _St. Peter_’s Church, where a magnificent +Tomb of Marble and Brass was erected for her; and there’s her Picture in a +Medallion, which is very fine. On one Side of this Princess’s Tomb, is +that of the famous Countess _Matilda_, whose Memory ought to be very dear +to the Popes, she having been one of the most signal Benefactrices which +the Church ever had. + +Besides the Inside and Outside of _St. Peter_’s Church, there are Places +under Ground which are very magnificent: One sees several Chapels there +lin’d with Marble, whose Altars are adorn’d with _Mosaic_ Paintings, to +fortify them against the Damps. The Roof of this Church is also worth +seeing; one ascends first to the Dome by a Stair-case, rising gradually +without Steps; after which one ascends by another, which is not so +commodious, to a Globe at the Top of the Dome, which supports its Cross: +From hence there’s a Prospect of the Country for near 40 Miles. + +I went from _St. Peter_’s Church to see the _Vatican_ Palace, which joins +to it: This was formerly the Pope’s common Residence, but for some time +past they have given the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_ the Preference to it, +that being said to be in a much healthier Air. The _Vatican_ is a very +irregular Pile, of several Pieces of Buildings coupled together, which +compose an Edifice of a prodigious Size, where by Consequence there must +be a great Number of Apartments. ’Tis accompany’d with a Garden, at the +End of which is a House call’d _Belvedere_, because of the fine Prospect +there is from it. In this Palace there are all the most curious Things one +would wish to see in Pictures and in Statues. The Pope’s Apartments are +very fine, and hung with crimson Damask or Velvet, adorn’d with a broad +Lace and Fringe of Gold. I enter’d into a great Apartment, which was +heretofore richly furnish’d for the Reception of _Philip_ V. King of +Spain, at the time when he was in _Italy_, and expected at _Rome_. + +The famous _Vatican_ Library is also worth the Traveller’s View, being +full of very scarce Books and curious MSS. You know, it has been very much +augmented by the _Heidelberg_ Library, and that of the Duke of _Urbino_. + +After having satisfy’d my Curiosity with regard to these Structures, I +thought of making some Visits: I went to the Marquis _C----_, and to the +Duke _S----_, for whom I had Letters given me at _Florence_. Those +Gentlemen were mighty civil to me, and offer’d to shew me the Curiosities +at _Rome_, and to introduce me to the Assemblies. In Fact the Marquis +_C----_ carry’d me the very same Day to _Madame de B----_, where I found +a very fine Assembly of Ladies and Gentlemen, and especially _Abbes_, +smart Fellows, who were able to read Lectures to the nicest +_Petit-Maitres_ in the Art of Coquetry. The Ladies were very well dress’d, +and for most part amiable, but not very easy of Access to such as had not +the Honour of wearing the little Band. The young Abbes had taken Care to +engross them so, that there seem’d to be no Possibility of coming near +them. After some Chat, and swallowing good Store of Chocolate, we went +into another Room, where the Company sat down to several Sorts of Play. +There I thought with myself, of what Advantage it would have been for me +to be _Monsieur l’ Abbe_. Every one of these Gentlemen readily found +Partners, but for my part, as they did not do me the Honour to offer me +the Cards, I was perfectly idle; and had it not been for the Person that +introduc’d me, with whom I talk’d now-and-then, I should have made a very +queer Figure: I did not think fit to stay till the Assembly broke up, and +was very glad when I got out. + +Next Day I took an Antiquarian with me, to serve as my Guide, to shew me +the greatest Curiosities at _Rome_: He carry’d me first to the most +considerable Squares; and of these the first that I saw was the _Trajan_ +Square, in the middle whereof stands the famous _Trajan_ Pillar, so call’d +from the Emperor _Trajan_, who began it, tho’ ’twas not finish’d till +after his Death: ’Tis 128 Feet in Height, and has a Stair-case that leads +to the Top, consisting of 123 Steps. The Outside of this Pillar is of +Marble, and represents _Trajan_’s principal Actions in _Basso-Relievo_. +This Column was rais’d higher by Pope _Sixtus_ V. who had _St. Peter_’s +Statue plac’d on the Top of it, instead of an Urn, which they say +contain’d the Ashes of the Emperor _Trajan_. + +My Antiquarian conducted me afterwards to the Place _Navona_, which forms +a long Square, with a Number of Houses round it, which are neither regular +nor magnificent. There are in the middle Three Fountains, very convenient +for the Purpose they serve, which is to lay all that Part of the Town +under Water in extreme hot Weather, for the Refreshment of Persons of +Quality, who come thither at that time in their Coaches. + +We went to see the Church of _St. John de Lateran_, which may be deem’d +the Mother and Chief of all the Churches in _Christendom_: It owes its +Foundation to the Emperor Constantine, who caus’d it to be built with +extraordinary Magnificence; it has had the Misfortune of being twice burnt +down, but was rebuilt both times with the same Magnificence: ’Tis not +indeed so large, nor of such modern Architecture as _St. Peter_’s Church, +but every whit as beautiful. The Pavement is all of Marble, and the Roof +supported by Four Rows of Pillars, which are of an extraordinary Height +and Circumference. Near this Church is a Chapel, built in Form of a Dome, +which, ’tis said, was _Constantine_’s Baptistery, but this last Article is +not absolutely certain. + +From this Church I went to the _Scala-Santa_, which is a Building of +Free-Stone, but no Part of it extraordinary: Three Portico’s form the +principal Front; that in the middle leads to the _Scala-Santa_, or Holy +Stair-case; so call’d because ’tis said the Steps of it are the same that +form’d the Stair-case of _Pilate_’s Palace, by which our Lord descended, +after he was scourg’d. Every body goes up these Stairs on their Knees; it +leads to a Chapel, with Grates inclosing precious Relics, particularly a +Picture of Jesus Christ, which, they affirm, was painted by the Angels. +’Tis for this very Reason, that this Chapel is call’d the +_Sancta-Sanctorum_. On one Side of this _Scala-Santa_ there are Two little +Stair-cases, for those that don’t care to ascend the Holy Stairs upon +their Knees; or for those who go down, after having perform’d this Act of +Devotion. + +When I had seen the _Scala-Santa_, my Guide conducted me to the +_Coliseum_, which is a large Amphitheatre, built of Stone: They say, that +_Vespasian_ began this superb Structure, and that his Son _Titus_ finish’d +it, and entertain’d the Public with a Battle of wild Beasts in it, of +which here were to the Number of 5000. The Inside of the _Coliseum_ is an +Oval, encompass’d with Galleries and an Amphitheatre, which, according to +the Opinion of some Authors, contain’d above 85,000 Spectators: ’Tis great +Pity that so stately a Building was not preserv’d. _Urban_ VIII. of the +_Barberini_ Family, permitted his Nephews to demolish a Part of the +_Coliseum_, and to build therewith the _Barberini_ Palace. The little that +remains of it is so much fallen to Ruin, that ’tis very probable, the next +Generation will know nothing of this magnificent Structure, but by the +Prints that we have of it. + +The _Pantheon_, or our Lady _de la Rotonda_, is the only ancient Edifice +that has been preserv’d: ’Tis 228 Feet in Diameter; and from its Centre to +the Top of the Dome ’tis 144 Feet: _Agrippa_, the Favourite and Son-in-Law +of the Emperor _Augustus_, caus’d this Temple to be built in Honour of all +the Heathen Gods; and ’tis now a Church, dedicated to _All the Saints_. +The only Light it has, is from a great Opening in the middle of the Roof, +which, tho’ somewhat lofty, is not supported by any Pillar: It was +formerly cover’d with Brass, but _Urban_ VIII. caus’d it to be taken off, +and employ’d in the building of the High Altar of _St. Peter_’s Church; +which occasion’d his Enemies to say, _That the_ Barberini _had done, what +the_ Barbarians _durst not attempt_. + +At my Return from this Ramble I found at my Lodgings the Duke _de S----_, +who came to carry me to the Assembly at _Madame de S----_. The Company +there was not very numerous, nor did I find it any more diverting than +that to which I was introduc’d before: There were few Ladies, and scarce +any Gentlemen of the Sword, but Abbes in Abundance: I plainly perceiv’d, +that the Assemblies at _Rome_ were not the most entertaining to a +Foreigner, and therefore I resolv’d, which I think was much better, to +employ myself in viewing the various Curiosities of the City. I went to +the Capitol, being every where accompany’d by my trusty Antiquarian: ’Tis +a Building compos’d of Three distinct Apartments, detach’d from one +another; Two of which form the advanc’d Wings, and all Three are built of +Free-Stone: They stand upon a Hill, to which is an Ascent by a great +Marble Stair-case: The Court before this Building is a spacious Oval, to +which is a Descent by Three Steps of Marble: In the middle is the +Equestrian Statue of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius_, a noble Remnant of +Antiquity. + +From the Capitol I went to the Pope’s Palace, call’d _Monte-Cavallo_, from +the Name of the Hill on which it stands. This of all the Palaces of _Rome_ +is one that enjoys the finest Prospect, and the best Air: It was built by +Order of Pope _Paul_ V. The Gardens which belong to it are large, but not +so beautiful, as to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Palace. After +having sufficiently view’d it, I return’d to my Quarters, where I had +appointed the Marquis _de A----_ to come and go along with me to the +Cardinal _Corsini_. His Eminency, who had an Assembly at is House every +Night, gave me a very kind Reception, and I found a numerous Company +there, which was much more to my Satisfaction than the Two Assemblies I +had been at before. The Cardinal did the Honours of his House perfectly +well, and took Care that every body should have a Part, either at Play, or +in Conversation. I paid my Court to him constantly, and did not fail to be +at his Assembly every Night, till I left the City: The rest of the Time I +spent in rambling thro’ the several Quarters of _Rome_, to see what was +most remarkable. + +After having made this Progress thro’ the Inside of the City, I had a Mind +also to view the Out-parts: I was conducted to the famous Vineyards of the +_Pamphili_ and _Borghese_ Families, which the _Italians_ prefer before all +the Gardens in _Europe_; wherein I am not quite of their Opinion. The +Statues in these Vineyards are, to my Mind, not to be parallel’d of the +Sort, but, as to the Agriculture or Waters, the Gardens of _France_ +outstrip them by far. At the Entrance of the _Borghese_ Vineyard is a +large Portico of Marble, which fronts a Walk, at the End whereof is a very +large Square, encompass’d with a Marble Balustrade, adorn’d with Statues +of the same. This Square serves as a Court to the House, which is not very +large, but contains immense Wealth in Statues and Paintings. The Outside +is fac’d with _Basso-Relievo’s_ of Marble, amongst which the Statue of +_Quintus Curtius_ on Horseback, casting himself headlong into the Gulph, +is especially to be admir’d. + +The _Pamphili_’s Vineyard is in my Opinion the finest Place in the Suburbs +of _Rome_. The Gardens have an Air of Grandeur and Proportion, which I +have not observ’d any where else. The Outside and Inside of the House are +lin’d alike with _Basso-Relievo_’s of Marble of admirable Workmanship. +There are also noble Statues, but most of ’em a little damag’d, by reason +of the various Fits of Devotion and Lukewarmness of a Prince _Pamphili_, +who did these Statues irreparable Injury: For this Prince, in the first +hot Fits of his Devotion, caus’d the Nudities of the Statues of this +Garden to be plaister’d over; but when that Zeal was abated, he had a Mind +to see his Statues again in their former Condition, which being not +possible to be done without breaking off the Plaister with the Strokes of +a Hammer; the Workman, for Want of due Care, gave some by which several of +those Statues were considerably damaged. + +All the various Curiosities took up a great deal of my Time, as well as +the famous _Borghese_ and _Farnese_ Palaces, those of _Colonna_, +_Palavicini_, _Barberini_, and others, the Description of which I omit. +After having thus satisfy’d myself, I thought of being introduced to the +Pope, and for that Purpose apply’d to the Cardinal _del Giudice_, to whom +I had Letters of Recommendation, as I had to the Cardinals _Gualtieri_ and +_Ottoboni_. I had the Honour to have favourable Audiences of all their +three Eminencies. As I was a _German_, I paid my first Visit to the +Cardinal _del Giudice_, who at that Time had the Care of the Emperor’s +Affairs. After a short Stay in his Antichamber, I was Introduc’d to an +Audience of him by one of his Gentlemen. This Prelate was not well that +Day, and I found him in his Night-Gown, lying on a Couch-Bed; but as soon +as he saw me enter, he rose and advanc’d to receive me; after which he sat +down again, and made me take an Arm-Chair over-against him. When the +Audience was over, he got up, and conducted me to the very Door of his +Chamber, where I found his Eminency’s Gentlemen, two of whom waited on me +to the Head of the Stairs, and another went down with me, and attended me +to my Coach. + +Cardinal _Gualtieri_ receiv’d me also in a most obliging Manner. He gave +me Audience in his Closet, where, after the first Greeting, he sat down in +an Arm-Chair, made me do the like, and oblig’d me to be cover’d: I was +very loth to take that Liberty, but he would be obey’d; and in this +Situation I stay’d an Hour at least. I was charm’d with the Behaviour of +this Prelate, who of all the Cardinals took the least State upon him. The +Tokens he gave me of his Kindness, made me attach myself to him; and I was +very assiduous in my Attendance upon him all the Time that I stay’d at +_Rome_. He sent one of his Gentlemen with me to the Cardinal _Ottoboni_, +Protector of the Affairs of _France_, whom I found in his Closet standing, +and in that Posture he remain’d all the Time of my Visit. When I withdrew, +I was attended in the same Manner as I had been at the House of the +Cardinal _del Giudice_. + +After I had made a Visit to these three Cardinals, the Cardinal _del +Giudice_ introduced me to the Pope, who was at that Time _Clement_ XI. of +the _Albani_ Family. The Cardinal had an Audience of his Holiness by +himself first, and then he introduc’d me. I fell on my Knees at the Door, +according to Custom, and then rising again, advanc’d to the Middle of the +Room, where I was preparing for a second Genuflexion; but the Pope +prevented me, by beckoning me with his Hand to advance, and calling out to +me _Aventi, Aventi_, i.e. Come forwards. I obey’d till I came to his Feet, +when I fell on my Knees and kiss’d an embroider’d Cross which was on his +Holiness’s Slippers. The Pope gave me his Blessing, and commanded me to +rise. He did me the Honour to talk to me a good while, concerning the good +Fortune I had to embrace the Catholic Religion; ask’d me several Questions +relating to my Conversion, and seem’d so overjoy’d at the Grace God had +given me, that he could not refrain shedding some Tears. He then ask’d me +News about the Sate of Religion in _Germany_, and highly extoll’d the Zeal +which the Elector _Palatine_ manifested for the Catholic Religion. He +concluded with exhorting me to continue stedfast in the Opinion I had been +so happy as to embrace; and when his Holiness dismiss’d me, he made me a +Present of several _Agnis Dei’s_, two little Medals, one of Gold the other +of Silver, and a Dispensation to eat Flesh in Lent. + +I stay’d at _Rome_ till Lent was over, that I might have a Sight of the +Ceremonies of the Holy Week; at which Time the Court of the Sovereign +Pontiff appears in its utmost Splendor. His Holiness set out on +_Wednesday_ in the Holy Week from _Monte Cavallo_ for the _Vatican_ +Palace, with very great Ceremony, and a numerous Retinue: The Prelates and +Officers of his Holiness’s Houshold went first, who were all on Horseback +in wide Cassocks, which really made a very scurvy Figure; for, in my +Opinion, long Gowns and flapp’d Hats do not seem to be a suitable Equipage +for Riding. After them came a couple of Grooms, leading a White Horse +richly accouter’d, the same which was for his Holiness’s Riding; but on +that Day he was carried in a Sedan of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with +Gold, which was followed by a Litter in the same Taste, and by a +magnificent Coach drawn by six dapple grey Horses. On the Sides of the +Pope’s Chair march’d two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_, and the Light-Horse +clos’d the March. In this Manner did the Pope make his Entry to the +_Vatican_ Palace. + +The next Day, which was Holy _Thursday_, I desir’d Cardinal _Gualtieri_ to +get me a Place where I might see the Ceremonies of that Grand Day; and his +Eminency was so good as to gratify my Wish. When I arriv’d at the Church, +the Pope was already in his Chapel, seated on a Throne erected on the +Right Side of the Altar, with a Cardinal on each Side of him, who, I +observ’d, sat upon Stools. The Constable _Colonna_ stood near the Pope, +with a drawn Sword in his Hand. As soon as the Mass was ended, the holy +Father descended from his Throne, and plac’d himself in a Chair of State +which was of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold: Eight Men of the Pope’s +Livery rais’d the Chair upon their Shoulders, and carry’d it in that +Manner to the Gallery which is over the Portico of _St. Peter_’s Church. +The Pope was preceded by his Houshold, and by all the Cardinals, who +walk’d two and two, in the midst of a couple pf Files of the Hundred +_Swiss_. All _St. Peter_’s Square, and the Streets leading to it, were +full of People: His Holiness’s Light-Horse and Gendarmery were also +there, together with the Foot-Guards, all drawn up in Order of Battle, +with their Officers at their Head. As soon as his Holiness appear’d, there +was a Flourish of the Kettle-Drums and Trumpets, which was quickly +succeeded with a profound Silence. During this the Pope order’d a Cardinal +to read the Bull of Excommunication and _Anathema_, against Heretics, +Schismatics, Pagans, and all others, that did not pay due Obedience to the +Holy See, or with-held its Estates; in short, against all those that lead +irregular Lives. While this Bull was reading, the Pope held a Wax Taper, +or rather a Torch, lighted, and as soon as the Cardinal had done reading +it, the Pope rose, that is to say, the Eight Men who carry’d him lifted +him up a little higher, and then his Holiness with a loud Voice pronounc’d +the Excommunication, which done he threw the Torch out of his Hand into +the Square, as a Symbol of the Thunder of the Church; and in a few Moments +after, the Pope took off the said Excommunication, on Condition, +nevertheless, that the Persons anathematis’d would repent and do public +Penance for their Errors. Then he gave his Blessing to all that were +present, and to the whole City of _Rome_ in general, by turning himself +about towards the Three other Parts of the Town. At the same Time all the +Cannon of the Castle of _St. Angelo_ were fir’d, and all the Bells of the +City were rung, which was accompany’d with the Sound of the Trumpets, +Kettle-Drums, and other Drums of the Soldiery, that were posted in _St. +Peter_’s Square. During this, his Holiness was carry’d back into his +Chapel, where the Tiara which he had wore during the whole Ceremony, was +taken off, and then he went up to the Altar, where he took the Holy +Sacrament and carry’d it with great Devotion to a magnificent Sepulchre, +which had been built in the little Chapel. After this Ceremony, the Pope +retir’d to put on his ordinary Habit, and then went, attended by the +Cardinals, into a Room, where Thirteen Priests of different Nations being +plac’d all in a Row, dress’d in long White Robes, his Holiness wash’d +their Feet, and gave to each a Medal and a Nosegay of Flowers. This +Ceremony being ended, the Pope, follow’d by those Thirteen Priests, went +into a second Room, where was a Table very neatly spread, at which the +Priests sat down, and were serv’d by the Pope and the Cardinals. The +Chevalier _de St. George_ and his Princess were present at this Ceremony, +with whom the Pope had some Conversation; and when his Holiness left them, +he said, _I have been washing of Feet, I am going now to wash Hands_: at +the same Time he presented the Water for that Purpose to the Thirteen +Clergymen whom he had attended during the Dinner. + +When the Pope was retir’d, the Cardinals went into a great Room, where +they found a Table sumptuously spread. At Night the Pope and the Sacred +College assisted at the _Miserere_, which was sung in the great Chapel +with Instrumental Music. + +Upon _Easter-Day_ the Pope was present at High-Mass, with all the +Cardinals; after which his Holiness, dress’d in his Pontificalibus and the +Tiara on his Head, was carry’d in the same Manner as upon Holy _Thursday_, +to the Gallery which fronts _St. Peter_’s Square, where the Soldiers were +drawn up in Batallia, and the People on their Knees to receive the Pope’s +Benediction; which was no sooner given, than there was a general Discharge +of all the Artillery from the Castle of _St. Angelo_: Then the Pope +retir’d to his Palace, and each of the Cardinals to his respective +Habitation. Thus ended the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, during which I +observ’d, that the Churches were always so throng’d, that the People were +ready to be stifled: Yet I believe that the _Italians_ frequent the +Churches during this holy Season, more for the sake of hearing the +excellent Music that is perform’d in them, than from any Motive of +Religion. + + * * * * * + +Immediately after the Holy Week was ended, I set out Post from _Rome_ with +several Foreigners that had the same Curiosity as myself, to see the +famous City of NAPLES. This City, which is the Metropolis of a Kingdom of +the same Name, stands on the Brink of the Sea, where it forms a Basin, +which the Town encompasses in Form of a Half Moon: From thence it rises +like an Amphitheatre, towards Hills which are cover’d with Vineyards and +delightful Gardens, from whence is the finest Prospect that can be +imagin’d. Upon one of these Hills is the famous Castle of _St. Elmo_, +built by _Charles_ V. which is a Fortress that commands the whole City. + +_Naples_ is the See of an Archbishop, whose Metropolitan Church is +dedicated to _St. Januarius_; and in this Church is preserv’d the Head of +that Saint, and some Drops of his Blood in a Glass Phyal. We are assur’d, +that every Year, upon that Saint’s Festival, the very Instant that they +put the Phyal to the Head, the Blood, which was before condens’d, turns +Liquid. All the People of _Naples_ are Eye-Witnesses of this Miracle, and +seem, in my Mind, to have a great Devotion for the Saint. Of this we may +easily judge by the Magnificence of his Church, which shines throughout +with Gold, Silver, Marble, _&c._ and ’tis moreover adorn’d with very +beautiful Paintings. + +The Viceroy’s Palace is one of the noblest Structures in the World: The +Beauty of the Architecture and the Disposition of the Apartments give the +same Pleasure to the Spectator, as the magnificent Prospect the Viceroy +has from a Balcony that ranges before the Windows, to which I never saw +any thing equal for its Extent, or its agreeable Variety. The fine +Gardens, the Harbour, the Arsenal, the lofty Hills, the terrible Mount +_Vesuvius_, in short, the whole City of _Naples_, all, _Madame_, +contribute to the Prospect from the Viceroy’s Palace. The Person who then +enjoy’d that Dignity was the Cardinal _Schrotenbach_, not much belov’d by +the _Neapolitans_, who shew’d a very public Concern for the Loss of the +Count _de Gallas_ his Predecessor. I question whether the Hatred they bore +to this new Viceroy was well grounded, for several People own’d to me +ingenuously, that he did every thing in his Power to make them happy. His +Court perhaps, which was too melancholy, and not much frequented, did not +please the _Neapolitans_, who love Grandeur. Besides, the Cardinal seldom +appeared in public, whereas these People love to see their Viceroy often, +and are fond to see him in Procession, with all the Pomp befitting a +Nobleman, vested with a Dignity which they look upon as superior to any +other whatsoever; for it must be observ’d, that a _Neapolitan_ thinks +nothing comparable to the Vice-royalty of _Naples_. And to shew what a +grand Idea they have of this Dignity, they tell a Story, That a +_Neapolitan_ Lady, at an Audience she had of the King of _Spain_, wish’d, +in order to complete his Happiness, that it would please God to make him +one Day Viceroy of _Naples_. + +I found in this City the Prince _T----_, whom I knew at _Vienna_. This +Nobleman offer’d to introduce me to several Assemblies, with which he +assur’d me I should not be displeas’d. I was glad to accept of his Offer, +upon his Assurance that they consisted of quite other Sort of People than +the Assemblies at _Rome_. I there made an Acquaintance with several +_Neapolitan_ Gentlemen, who were as civil to me as could be, and were so +complaisant, as to carry me to those Parts of the City which were most +remarkable. I was charm’d with the noble Walk, form’d by the _Cours_, +along by the Sea-side, where I met with a great Number of Coaches, which +seem’d to me to have more of the _French_ Air than those of _Rome_, bating +only, that they were all drawn by Mules, or very sorry Horses. After I had +taken a Walk, I was invited to make one of a Party at Supper, where I was +promis’d good Chear and good Company; which I freely accepted, and had the +Pleasure of seeing the Performance as good as the Promise. The +Entertainment was most delicate, and very amiable Ladies were also of the +Party: I should have had an intire Pleasure in conversing with them; but, +for Want of understanding _Italian_, I could only talk by Signs, a Method +of Conversation very troublesome for Persons that would have desir’d +nothing better than to hold a Discourse. After Supper they propos’d a +Match at Pharao; the Prince _T----_ offer’d to cut the Cards, and had such +a Run of bad Luck, that in a little time I saw him lose considerable +Sums. I won to my Share 260 Pistoles, which that Gentleman sent me next +Day, together with a great Basket of green Peas, and good Store of Fruit. + +While I stay’d at _Naples_, I could not help going to see the famous Mount +_Vesuvius_, of which I had heard so much Talk; but when I found myself at +the Top of this dreadful Mountain, I repented of my Labour, for I imagin’d +I should have been requited for the Pains I took, by the Sight of +something marvellous, when I came to the Top; but so far from it, that I +saw nothing but Smoak issuing from several very great Cavities, which it +would not have been prudent to approach; and indeed I had no manner of +Temptation to it, so that I return’d but little wiser than I went: What I +remark’d in particular was, that as I struck my Foot against the Ground, I +heard a Noise, very much like the Sound of an empty Cask; and that’s all I +am able to tell you of Mount _Vesuvius_. As to the Form of this Mountain, +it would be in vain to describe it, because it changes its Shape every +time it throws out Fire. I found it much more painful to descend the Mount +than I did to ascend it, for the Abundance of bak’d Clods, calcin’d +Stones, sulphurous Matter, and the Heaps of Ashes, made the Descent so +difficult, that when I came to the Bottom, I found myself so fatigued, +that I could scarce remount my Horse: I perceiv’d that the soft Boots I +wore, were intirely burnt, undoubtedly by the Sulphur and Lime, of which +the Mountain is intirely compos’d. I was then told, that it had not cast +out any Flames for a long time, but that this would infallibly happen very +soon, because new Holes were discover’d in it, and that the Earth, which +visibly broke away, began to sink. I thought such a Mountain was a very +bad Neighbour to so considerable a City as _Naples_; yet the _Neapolitans_ +don’t seem to be much terrify’d at it. Indeed when the Flames actually +break out, they are not the same Men; they then flock in Crouds to the +Churches, every body falls to Prayer, and they make public Promises to +change their Lives; but no sooner do they think all the Danger to be over, +than they relapse into the same Degree of Debauchery as ever: In which +they resemble those Wits, who, when they are in perfect Health, seem to +set Death at Defiance; but when they feel its Approaches, discover such +faint Hearts as give the Lye to their pretended Heroism. + +Next Day I went to see the great _Carthusian_ Church of _St. Martin_, +which is most happily situated: The Church and Convent are Two stately +Structures, which contain immense Wealth: The Treasury and Sacristy are +full of noble Ornaments, Vessels of Gold and Silver, richly wrought and +adorn’d for most part with precious Stones; and the Friars have very +convenient Lodgings, every one having a Chamber, a Closet, a Library, and +a little Garden to himself. + + * * * * * + +I went afterwards to POZZUOLI or PUTEOLI, where I saw a Road, or rather a +Cavern, of a very singular Structure, which is cut out partly in the Rock, +and partly in the Sand: ’Tis 30 or 40 Feet in Height, and broad enough for +Two Coaches to go abreast. This Road, which is very long, receives no +Light but from the Extremities, and a Hole in the middle; for which +reason, in the greatest Part of it, one is forc’d to grope out the Way in +the Dark, and to take Care to call out at proper Distances, to give +Notice where one is, a Precaution without which People would be in Danger +of running foul of one another. + +After I had pass’d this Cavern, I found myself near that call’d _la Grotte +du Chien_, or the Dog’s Grotto, which is but a narrow Cavern, and at most +only Five Feet in Height, so that few People can stand upright in it. I +there saw the Experiment usually made there: A Dog was laid flat with his +Face to the Ground, which the very same Instant fell into Convulsions, and +soon after shew’d no Sign at all of Life. Upon this he was thrown out of +the Cavern as dead, when a Man took him, and put him into the Lake, which +is but 25 or 30 Paces from the Cavern, and the Dog immediately recover’d +his Spirits. After this Experiment was over, which I leave to be accounted +for by wiser Heads than mine, I went to _Puteoli_, which in Truth has +nothing of its ancient Splendor remaining. And I can’t imagine why +Foreigners make it a Sort of Law to go to it; for there’s nothing now to +be seen here, except old Ruins of no Signification. + +The Impatience I had to see the famous City of _Venice_ did not permit me +to continue long at _Naples_, so that I stay’d there no longer than was +necessary to receive an Answer to a Letter, which I wrote at my Arrival +there, to the Count _de S----_, in _Sicily_; wherein I pretended, that +Affairs of the utmost Importance had prevented me from having the Honour +of joining him as soon as I wish’d; but you must know, that this was all +mere Compliment of mine, for several of my Friends had put me very much +out of Conceit with going to serve in _Sicily_. And the Letter, which the +Count _de S----_ return’d in Answer to mine, completed my Disgust; for he +wrote in a Style that I did not like, and the Lectures he was pleas’d to +give me, made me resolve not to expose myself to the Danger of receiving a +second Letter: I wrote to him therefore, that he was welcome to dispose of +my Commission, and that my Affairs did not permit me to enter into the +Service so soon. From that time I determin’d to continue my Travels, and +to try my Fortune at the _Spanish_ Court, to which I had for a long while +been desirous of going; but you will soon perceive, that I was just as +fortunate at that Court as I was at all the rest. + +Having therefore no longer any Restraint upon me in my Travels, I chose to +satisfy my Curiosity, and from _Naples_ I set out for _Venice_. I made the +best of my Way thro’ several little Towns of _St. Peter’s_ Patrimony, in +which there was nothing remarkable, besides sorry Victualling-houses, but +stopp’d at LORETTO, a little Town in the Marquisate of _Ancona_, the +Suburbs whereof I thought very charming: The Town itself is very pretty, +and advantagiously situate, being plac’d on a Hill, from whence is a noble +Prospect of the _Adriatic_ Sea, or Gulph of _Venice_. The Inhabitants of +_Loretto_ are all very rich, yet all their Trade consists in Strings of +Beads, Images of the Virgin, and other Things of that Sort; but then +there’s such a vast Resort of Pilgrims thither at every Turn, that the +Money they lay out for Lodging, and for the Purchase of Images and Beads, +is sufficient alone to maintain the Inhabitants handsomly. + +You know, _Madame_, that the Business of a Pilgrimage to _Loretto_ is to +visit a Chapel, which was formerly the House where the Holy Virgin dwelt, +when the Angel brought her the Tidings that she should be the Mother of +the Saviour of the World: ’Tis surprizing at first Dash to find a House +in _Italy_, which was formerly built in a Country so far off; but when one +comes to be a little acquainted with History, the Astonishment presently +subsides; for this House shifted its Place several times before it fix’d +in the Marquisate of _Ancona_: It was first, they say, remov’d by Angels +from _Nazareth_, which was really its original Country, into _Dalmatia_, +where it stay’d Three Years. When that Term was expir’d, the said Angels +remov’d it a second time, and carry’d it to the Territory of _Recanati_, +in the Marquisate of _Ancona_: But as every Day produc’d some Murder or +Robbery in those Parts, the Angels, alarm’d at such a Neighbourhood, +carry’d away the House a third time, and plac’d it some Distance from the +Spot, where it stands now. But there it did not stay long; for a Couple of +Friars, to whom the Ground belong’d on which the House was plac’d at that +time, having a warm Contention which should be the Proprietor of it, the +Angels soon put an End to the Dispute, by removing the Building the fourth +and last time, and putting it where it now stands: To do Honour to this +House, and perhaps also to fix it here, Care was taken to build a very +magnificent Church, in the middle of which ’tis inclos’d. The Walls of +this Church are lin’d with white Marble, wrought in _Basso-Relievo_ by the +ablest Workmen of that Time; containing the whole History of the Holy +Virgin: There are also between double Columns of the _Corinthian_ Order +Two Rows of Niches, one above the other, in the lowermost Row whereof are +the Statues of the Prophets, and in the uppermost those of the Sybils; the +whole being of admirable Workmanship. The House of the Virgin, which is +commonly call’d _Santa Casa_, seem’d to me to be built of Brick: ’Tis much +longer than broad: ’Tis divided by an Altar into Two unequal Parts, in the +least whereof is the miraculous Statue of the Virgin, which stands in a +Nich, bearing the Infant Jesus in her Right Arm. The Mother and Child have +each a Triple Crown of Gold, adorn’d with precious Stones. The whole Habit +consists of a long Mantle of Gold Brocade, embroider’d with Pearls and +Diamonds. The Sanctuary is lighted by several Lamps of solid Gold, of a +prodigious Size, particularly one, not only remarkable for its Bigness, +but for the Richness of the Workmanship, which was sent to _Loretto_ by +the Republic of _Venice_, to fulfil a Vow of that Republic, during the +time of a Plague, which made cruel Ravages in a great Part of the State of +_Venice_. + +As to the Divine Service, it may be said to be perform’d at _Loretto_, to +the utmost Degree of Exactness; nor is there any thing more edifying than +to see with what Devotion Pilgrims from all Countries come to visit the +_Santa Casa_. They enter it upon their Knees, and devoutly kiss the Walls +of it, as well as the Chimney, in which they pretend, the Holy Virgin +dress’d her Meat. They also apply their Beads and Images to a Porringer, +which, they say, was the very same that serv’d for the Holy Virgin’s +Soup-Dish. + +As I went out of the Church, I was carry’d to a great Room, where I saw +immense Riches. There are 17 large Presses, all full of Jewels and +Vessels, for most part of Gold, or of some more precious Matter. In this +Room I also saw the Virgin’s numerous Suits of Apparel, of which she has +Change for every Day in the Year, and so rich, that I declare I never saw +any thing like it. After I had well view’d this costly Wardrobe, I went +to see the Palace, which is a very spacious Building, not a great way from +the Church. I was shew’d the Wardrobe of it, where is a deal of fine +Tapistry, and I afterwards went to see the Arsenal, which is not very +considerable. + +When I had intirely satisfy’d my Curiosity at _Loretto_, I set out for +_Bologna_, and went by the very Gates of _Ancona_, which is a Sea-Port in +the Pope’s Dominions; but I made no Stay at it, because I had been told +before-hand, there was nothing in it worth seeing, and went and din’d at +Fano, a very pretty little Town, where I saw a Triumphal Arch with Three +Gates, the Inscriptions whereof were quite defac’d, and I could find no +body wise enough to let me into the History of this Fragment, which I +thought very ancient. + + * * * * * + +From thence I went to PESARO, a little Town not far from the Sea, and very +much celebrated for the Fertility of its Soil. Here is a very large +Square, and in the middle of it a magnificent Fountain. This City and the +whole Duchy of _Urbino_ were united to the Holy See during the Pontificate +of _Urban_ VIII. whose Statue, still to be seen in the great Square, was +erected in Memory of that Event. + + * * * * * + +From _Pesaro_ I went in a Day to RIMINI, an Episcopal City which stood +formerly, on the Sea-side; but has not had that Advantage for a long Time, +the Sea being retir’d from it above half a Mile. This was the first Place +that _Cæsar_ took at the Beginning of the Civil War. The Emperor +_Augustus_ embellish’d it with a Triumphal Arch, which is to be seen here +at this Day; as are also the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, and of a Marble +Bridge well preserv’d, over which there are two Inscriptions that denote +it was built by the Emperors _Augustus_ and _Tiberius_. All the way from +_Rimini_ to _Bologna_ I saw nothing remarkable. + + * * * * * + +[21]BOLOGNA is an Archbishoprick, and the second in the Ecclesiastical +State: ’Tis commonly call’d _Bologna the Fat_, because of its fruitful +Soil. ’Twas heretofore independent of the Holy See, and had very +advantagious Terms for submitting to it. It has a Right, among Others, of +having always at _Rome_ an Auditor pf the _Rota_, and an Ambassador; which +is punctually observ’d: And the Pope, on his Part, has a Legate here, who +is always a Cardinal, and lodges in the Palace, which indeed is ancient, +but very spacious, and the Apartments are conveniently distributed. Over +the Portico of this Palace is a Statue of Brass erected to the Honour of +_Gregory_ XIII. which is look’d upon as a Master-piece of Art, and weighs, +as they say, 11,000 Pound; and on one Side of it is another of _Boniface_ +VIII. which is not a bad one. + +As to the Manners of the Inhabitants of _Bologna_, I cannot but speak in +Praise of them: They have all the Civility and Regard to Foreigners that +one can wish for. There is Abundance of Gentry here, who live with more +Grandeur and Freedom than in any other Part of _Italy_; and, to say all +that I think of this City in one Word, if I were to settle in _Italy_, +’tis the only Town I would chuse to live in. + +After some Stay here, I set out for _Venice_, in a Boat call’d _The +Messenger_, which goes off from _Bologna_ every Morning, or at least +several times in a Week: ’Tis the most detestable Vessel that a Gentleman +can be stow’d in; but you must go with that or none. We had not gone far, +but, when we were still some Miles from _Ferrara_, we found the Water was +too shallow, so that every Soul in the Boat was forc’d to go ashore, where +we put our Baggage into Waggons, and our Persons into a sort of Coach, +almost like the Stage-Coaches of _France_. The Outside of this Vehicle was +so unpromising, that I profess I was very loth to get within it; besides, +the Coachman seem’d to be fuddled, and his Horses being very sprightly, +requir’d the Driver to be in his sober Senses. Nevertheless, having at +that Time no other Way to proceed but to trust myself in that Carriage, or +to foot it all the rest of the Journey, I did as others did, and we all +ventur’d boldly into the Coach. We set out with such a Pace as made me +terribly uneasy all the Way; yet our Coachman drove cleverly thro’ the +most difficult Places, and carry’d us safe to _Ferrara_: But we had scarce +enter’d that City, when our Charioteer, ’tis like to shew his Skill, made +his Horses double their Pace just as we were to turn into a Street; +whereupon they ran with such Fury, that, turning a little too short, one +of the Wheels behind passing over a high Bank, our Coach overturn’d so +suddenly, that the two Persons who sat next the Door were kill’d on the +Spot, and the others dangerously wounded. For my own Part, I came off with +a Blow on my Head, which made me have a swell’d Face for Seven or Eight +Days. My _Valet de Chambre_, who sat over-against me, had his Wrist put +out of Joint: And, in short, out of Eight of us that were in Company, +there was not one but had some Harm. What surpriz’d me more than any thing +was, that I had the least, which, perhaps, is the first time that I ever +met with a Companion that came off worse than myself. I could have wish’d +to have walk’d about _Ferrara_[22], but my swell’d Face hinder’d me; and +therefore, without Loss of Time, I put my Baggage on board a Vessel which +carry’d me to VENICE[23], where I arriv’d at Midnight. + +I kept my Chamber for some Days, till I was recovered of my Fall, and then +took a Tour about the several Parts of the City, sometimes in the Gondola, +and at other times on Foot. The former Method of Travelling, tho’ very +pleasant, is apt to frighten such as are not us’d to it, who often think +themselves in danger of drowning, especially at the Turnings out of one +Street into another; for then one would think the Boat was ready to be +swallow’d up in the Canal; which indeed might very well be the Case with +Boatmen of less Understanding than the Gondoliers of _Venice_; but these +are so dexterous that one never hears of any Misfortune. + +The first Thing I went to see was the famous Church dedicated to _St. +Mark_, the Protector of the Republic. The Front is adorn’d with Five +Portico’s, of which the middle one is bigger and more spacious than the +others. On the Top of it there are Four Horses of Brass, said to have +formerly belong’d to a Chariot of the Sun, that serv’d for an Ornament to +the Triumphal Arch which the Senate of _Rome_ caus’d to be erected for +the Emperor _Nero_, after the Victory he gain’d over the _Parthians_. The +Emperor _Constantine_ caus’d them to be remov’d afterwards to +_Constantinople_, but the _Venetians_ brought them back again, after they +had made themselves Masters of that City. Besides these Four Horses, the +Front of the Church is adorn’d with other Statues. The Roof consists of +several Domes, over which there are very fine Crosses. The Inside of the +Church is truly magnificent: The Walls are lin’d throughout with Marble; +the Pavement is also of Marble of perfect _Mosaic_ Workmanship; and the +Roof is lin’d in the same manner. + +From thence I went to the Palace of the Doge, the Architecture of which I +took to be very irregular. The Hall where the Nobles meet, is a prodigious +large Room: The Doge’s Throne, which is plac’d at one End of it, is higher +than the rest by some Steps: There the Nobles sit upon Benches fronting +the Throne, which form Eleven Rows, or Walks, wide enough for a Person to +pass easily between them: The Throne and the Seats of the Nobles are very +plain: The Beauty of this Room consists intirely in Pictures that are +worth seeing: There is one that represents the Taking of _Constantinople_ +by the _Venetians_; and on the other Side is the History of Pope +_Alexander_ III. and of the Emperor _Frederic Barbarossa_, with the +Pictures of the several Doges. + +There is a large Square call’d _The Broglio_, before the Doge’s Palace, +where the Nobles commonly take the Air; and tho’ there be no Covering to +it, nor any Verdure, yet ’tis very pleasant because of the Neighbourhood +of the Sea, the Prospect of which is boundless and most delightful. The +Resort of Ships, Galleys, and Gondolas, continually coming in and out +here, affords another Scene, which is the more amusing because of its +Variety. Besides this, one has the Pleasure too of discovering several +little Islands that are said to be inhabited by none but Fryars, who have +magnificent Churches and Convents there. At that End of this Square, next +to the great Canal, there are Two fine Pillars of Marble; on one of which +are the Arms of the Republic, _viz._ a Winged Lyon; and on the second is +the Statue of _St. Theodore_, the ancient Patron of the Republic. + +I had not the Honour of seeing the Doge, and therefore shall say nothing +of him, only that he seems to me but an imaginary Prince, and in Effect no +more than the First Slave of the Republic. All the Lustre he has, is to be +at the Head of the Senate and the Nobles in all the Assemblies and +Ceremonies; for the rest, his Credit, if he may be said to have any, is +extremely bounded. The Ceremony in which he appears with all his Splendor, +is that which is perform’d every Year at _Venice_, upon Ascention-Day: +Then the Doge, at the Head of the Senate and all the Nobility, goes on +board a stately Vessel call’d the _Bucentaure_; and when he is advanc’d a +little way into the Gulph, he throws a Gold Ring into the Sea, and says, +_We marry thee, O Sea, in Token of that True and Perpetual Dominion which +the Republic has over Thee_. And indeed, the _Venetians_ look upon the +_Adriatic Sea_ as their peculiar Property. + +The _Venetian_ Nobles are as scrupulous in Matters of State, as the modern +_Romans_ are in those of Ceremony; insomuch that they break off all +Correspondence with any Man that keeps Company with an Ambassador; of +which I myself had Experience. As I had known _M. de Q----_ at the King of +_England_’s Court at _Hanover_, and _M. G----_ at the Court of _Vienna_, I +thought that when I saw them return’d to _Venice_, I could not do better +than to pay them a Visit, in order to be introduc’d into good Families. I +went to them accordingly, and was receiv’d with all possible Civility by +those Gentlemen, who next Day return’d my Visit, when I observ’d in the +Course of the Conversation, which was not very long, that Notice had been +taken of my being so often at the House of the Imperial Ambassador; and I, +for my own Part, gave them to understand, that I was not dispos’d to make +a Sacrifice of the Ambassador’s Family in Compliment to them. The Person +who then resided there with that Character was the Count _de Colloredo_, +at whose House there was an Assembly every Night of all the Foreigners of +most Distinction at _Venice_. He had with him the Countess of _Colloredo_, +whom, no doubt, you have seen at the House of her Brother _M. de +Blaspiel_, when she was the Widow of the Count _de Collonitz_. The +Ambassador and his Lady were perfectly complaisant to all Persons that +came to their House, and there was every Day very good Company. I made an +Aquaintance there with the Marchioness _de R----_, Daughter of the +celebrated _Madame de M----_. This Lady had left the Court of _France_ and +her Family, and, after having travell’d thro’ several Countries, came and +settled at _Venice_. I confess I was heartily concern’d to see a Lady, who +must have been very amiable in her Time, reduc’d, by a natural Uneasiness +of her Temper, which perhaps too was Hereditary, to lead so strolling a +Life. + +While I stay’d at _Venice_, the Hereditary Prince of _Modena_ came and +spent a few Days there. The _Venetians_ made several Entertainments for +him, which gave me the Pleasure of seeing the _Venetian_ Ladies in all +their Dresses, or else I should have gone away without seeing one of them; +for the Jealousy of their Husbands confines them almost always within +Doors, so that ’tis impossible to see them, but in the Time of the +Carnival, or on some Days of Festival. While the Prince of _Modena_ stay’d +at _Venice_, there was a sort of Carnival, which gave the Town an Air of +Gaiety that is not common to it. I was surpriz’d at the magnificent +Dresses of the Ladies, especially at the Number of their Jewels; for as to +the rest of their Habit, there was something odd in it, as there is always +in the Dress of the _Italians_. They were very constant at the Balls which +were made for that Prince, who could not fail of being pleas’d to see how +fond the Republic was to caress him. They also entertain’d him with a +Diversion call’d the _Regatte_, which is a Contention of small Vessels to +out-sail one another, and makes a very pleasant Shew. They are divided +into Four little Squadrons, which are distinguish’d from one another by +little Flags or Streamers of several Colours, and every Squadron is +conducted by a great Bark richly gilded and adorn’d with very fine +Paintings. The Seamen who are on board these Vessels, are always dress’d +after a very gallant Manner: These Squadrons strive which shall gain the +Prize appointed for that which arrives first at the Mark. The Prince of +_Modena_ seem’d to be mightily delighted with the Entertainment. In a few +Days after it, he set out from _Venice_. I thought also of proceeding in +my Travels thro’ _Italy_, and went to _Padua_ with the same Gondoliers +that had serv’d me while I stay’d at _Venice_. + + * * * * * + +[24]PADUA is an Episcopal City, famous for its University; and more +ancient, they say, than _Rome_ and _Venice_. ’Tis thought to have been +founded by _Antenor_ the _Trojan_ Prince, whose Tomb is still to be seen +there. Its Soil is extremely fertile, and from thence came the Proverb, +_Bologne la Grasse, mais Padoue la passe_, i. e. _Bologne_ the _Fat_, but +_Padua_ the _Fatter_. As to the outside Appearance of the Town, I took +such a cursory View of it indeed, that what I saw of it gave me no great +Idea of it; for where-ever I came, every thing had a very dirty Hue: The +Pavement was much out of Order, and the Houses of a despicable Taste; but +I thought the Churches of _St. Anthony_ and _St. Justina_ really +magnificent. + +The first, where lies the Body of _St. Anthony_, is fac’d with +_Basso-Relievo’s_ of white Marble, representing the principal Miracles +wrought by that Saint. The Altar is richly adorn’d, and illuminated with +Thirty-nine great Silver Lamps that burn Night and Day. + +_St. Justina_’s Church, tho’ far inferior to _St. Anthony_’s in point of +Magnificence, is one of the finest in all _Italy_. The High Altar is, in +all respects, a finish’d Piece of Work, and is intirely of Marble; as are +also Twenty-four other Altars in the same Church, every one of which is of +a particular Architecture. Round the Choir are Pews adorn’d with +_Basso-Relievo’s_, representing the Prophecies contain’d in the Old +Testament relating to _Jesus Christ_; and the fulfilling of them in the +New. On one Side of this Church is a huge Monastery, which has Six +Cloysters, several Courts, and a Number of very magnificent Gardens. I +went afterwards to see the Hall of the Town-house, which is one of the +largest in _Europe_, being 256 Feet in Length, and 86 in Breadth: The Roof +is very fine, and the Workmanship thereof bold, having no Pillar to +support it; but the Fault of it is ’tis pretty dark, though I know not +what should hinder its having more Light, the Situation of it being such +that it might be procur’d for a very small Charge. + +From _Padua_ I went to _Modena_, by the Way of _Ferrara_ and _Bologna_. +The Soil of _Padua_ being very marshy, the Roads are terrible, and I had +as much to do as ever I had in my Life to reach to _Ferrara_, where I took +Water, for fear that I had the same bad Way to get to _Bologna_. The very +Day that I arriv’d at the latter, I set out for _Modena_, to which is a +very plain Road thro’ a most agreeable Country, where the Eye is feasted +at every Turn with a pleasing Variety. + + * * * * * + +MODENA is the Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. This was the City in +which _Mark Anthony_ besieg’d _Brutus_, after the Murder of _Cæsar_. The +Dukes of _Modena_ are of the Family of _Est_, and depend on the Empire. I +had the Honour of making my Compliments to the Duke Regent, who receiv’d +me in the most obliging Manner that could be. He was still in Mourning for +the Empress _Leonora_, Mother to the Emperor. He receiv’d me standing: As +soon as ever I had made my Obeisance he put on his Hat, forc’d me to put +on mine, talk’d kindly to me for a good while, and I went away very well +satisfy’d with my Audience. + +As I had no Design to stay long at _Modena_, I did but glance over the +several Quarters of this City, in which I found no Structure, either +sacred or prophane, that deserves a Traveller’s Regard. The Streets of +_Modena_ are narrow, nasty, and ill-pav’d, the Street of the _Course_ +being the only one that is tolerable. The Duke’s Palace will be grand and +magnificent when finish’d; as much as I saw of it carry’d up, being +sufficient to form a great Idea of what the rest will be. The Duke’s +Apartments are spacious and richly furnish’d: There was one of them +fitting up for _Madamoiselle de Valois_, the Daughter of the Duke of +_Orleans_ the Regent, now the Princess of _Modena_, who they expected +would soon be their Sovereign; and all Hands were at work to give her a +Reception worthy of what she was already, and of what she was like to be. +This Princess had need be Mistress of her Temper to bear the kind of Life +they live at the Court of _Modena_, to which none can compare for +Tranquillity; insomuch that it may be said, the very Gloominess of it is +enough to incline a Person to Melancholy, especially one that comes to it +from so gay a Court as that of _France_. In short, the Life of the Court +of _Modena_ is the Life of a Convent: When they rise, they go to Mass, and +dine betimes; after Dinner they take a Turn out for the Air; in the +Evening they play for some Time, sup at Eight a Clock, and by Ten they are +in Bed. This, _Madame_, is the common Custom at the Court of _Modena_; at +least they liv’d thus when I was there: but the Arrival of the Princess +perhaps might make some Alteration in that irksome Repetition of the same +thing over again in Life, which is by no means suitable to a Sovereign +Court. + + * * * * * + +From _Modena_ I went to REGGIO, a City and Bishoprick between _Parma_ and +_Modena_. This Town is noted for its Fairs, which are said to have some +Resemblance with ours at _Francfort_ and _Leipsic_. I have been told, that +during these Fairs there’s always a noble Opera perform’d in this Town. + + * * * * * + +From _Reggio_ I struck into the Road to PARMA, an Episcopal City, and +Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. The Cathedral is a magnificent Pile, +and the Dome is adorn’d with Paintings, which are much admir’d by the best +Judges. As to the rest of the City, it appear’d to me to be large and very +well built. Its Inhabitants are polite, generous and ingenious, and +there’s a good Number of Nobility here, but they live so much after the +_Italian_ manner, that ’tis not an easy Matter to get acquainted with +them. + +The Court of _Parma_ is but little, if any thing, gayer than that of +_Modena_: I was perfectly well receiv’d by the then Duke, _viz._ _Francis +Farnese_, who, by a Dispensation, of which there are few Examples in the +Catholic Church, had marry’d his Brother’s Widow. This Princess is call’d +_Dorothy_ of _Neubourg_: She is Sister of the Elector Palatine, and had by +her first Husband _Elizabeth Farnese_, the present Queen of _Spain_: She +having no Issue by her second, the Duchy of _Parma_, by the Death of Duke +_Francis_ _Feb. 22, 1727_, devolv’d to his Brother _Anthony Farnese_, who +marry’d _Henrietta_ Princess of _Modena_. As there is Reason to believe +that this Marriage too will prove sterile, the famous _Farnese_ Family, +which owes its Advancement to _Paul_ III. will be extinct in this +_Anthony_. The said Pope, a little after his Exaltation to the +Pontificate, gave the Investiture of the Dominions of _Parma_ and +_Placentia_ to _Lewis Farnese_ his Bastard, who marry’d a Bastard Daughter +of the Emperor _Charles_ V. yet this double Bastardy has not been a Bar to +the matching of this with the chief Families in _Europe_. + + * * * * * + +I stay’d Three Days at _Parma_, and then proceeded on my Journey; I pass’d +thro’ PIACENZA or PLACENTIA, so call’d from its pleasant Situation; Nature +having not form’d a finer Country any where than that betwixt this City +and _Parma_: Here is a very fine Castle, and a noble Square, in which is +the Court of Justice. The Houses are very well built, but not lofty, tho’ +indeed it would not signify any thing if they were higher, it being so +thinly inhabited, that it looks like a Desert; for sometimes one shall +walk a long while in this City, and not meet a Soul. + +I stay’d but a Day at _Piacensa_, and went directly to MILAN, the capital +City of one of the finest Duchies in the World: ’Tis one of the most +beautiful Cities in all _Italy_, and the most magnificent in Buildings, +both sacred and profane. The Metropolitan Church is, next to _St. Peter_’s +at _Rome_, one of the finest Pieces of Work that can be imagin’d: ’Tis all +white Marble within and without, and there’s a great Number of Statues of +the same. The Roof is supported by 160 Columns of white Marble, which are +each valued at 10,000 Crowns. The Tower at the Top of it is also worth +visiting, its Situation being so advantagious, that one sees several +Cities from it, and a good Part of _Lombardy_. + +There are several other noble Churches, of which I don’t propose to give +you a Description, nor of many other elegant Structures, that are likewise +richly furnish’d; for the _Milanese_ Gentry love Magnificence: Their +Apartments have a certain grand and noble Air, which the _Italians_ for +most part rarely affect. The People of Quality here are very sociable: +There’s an Assembly every Night at one House or other by Turns, and in all +Places there’s great Freedom. Every one has his favourite Amusement; some +chat, others play. They commonly sup together, after the Gaming is over, +and sometimes they have a sort of Ball. You perceive, _Madame_, by what I +have already said of _Milan_, that ’tis a very agreeable Place to live in: +I forgot to mention one distinguishing Quality of the _Milanese_, which +is, that they are not at all jealous, a Fault that seems so predominant in +the Temper of the _Italians_, that I cannot imagine how they escape it. + +You must know, that never was City subject to more Revolutions than +_Milan_: It has been besieg’d 40 times, and 22 times taken, but was never +worse treated than it was by the Emperor _Frederic_ I. surnam’d +_Barbarossa_. This Prince, after he had taken it, caus’d it to be +demolish’d, and sow’d it with Salt; only a few Churches were spar’d. The +Duchy of _Milan_, which, by its Situation, lies convenient for many +Sovereigns, has always prov’d a Source of Wars for _Italy_: You have read +no doubt in several Histories, what Misfortunes this Duchy has entail’d +upon the neighbouring Provinces, especially during the Reigns of _Charles_ +V. and _Francis_ I. King of _France_. The latter having demanded the +_Milanese_ for his second Son the Duke of _Orleans_, the Emperor promis’d +to give him the Investiture of it, but he was so little a Slave to his +Word, that he gave himself no Trouble to discharge his Promise, which bred +an implacable Hatred between those Two Monarchs: It was indeed suspended +more than once, but ’twas always to gain a Breathing-time, for they hated +each other as long as they liv’d. + + * * * * * + +After I had stay’d awhile at _Milan_, I set out for the Court of _Savoy_. +The first City I stopped at was CASAL, formerly one of the strongest and +most important Fortresses in _Italy_: The Citadel especially was by all +good Judges look’d upon as one of the Wonders of the World. _Lewis_ XIV. +who had Possession of it for a long time, caus’d such fortifications to be +made there, as are hardly to be match’d. That Monarch observing the +Bigness of the Buildings, caus’d an Intrenchment and a second Rampart to +be made, which form’d a new Bastion in the Centre of the first; but now +there remain only some Vestigies of those fine Works; the Fortifications +both of the City and Citadel having been demolish’d in 1695, according to +a Capitulation made between the _Germans_ and the _French_, when the +former made themselves Masters of the Place. + +_Casal_ belong’d heretofore to the Dukes of _Mantua_, but now, by the +Emperor’s Grant thereof, it belongs to the King of _Sardinia_. + + * * * * * + +I went in one Day from _Casal_ to[25]TURIN, the capital City of +_Piedmont_, the See of an Archbishop, and the chief Seat of the Duke of +_Savoy_. ’Tis not very large, but is in the main a very pretty Town, the +Streets being broad and strait, the Houses generally uniform, and +intermingled with noble Edifices: Here is also a Citadel, one of the +strongest that can be imagin’d, every Part of it being countermin’d. There +is a Well of a very singular Construction, which, tho’ very deep, is so +contrived, that several Horses may go down and up again, without meeting +one another: This is perform’d by means of a double Stair-case without +Steps, which winds so many times, that it makes the Descent easy. + +The Entrance into _Turin_ thro’ the new Gate gives one a grand Idea of the +City: We come first into a great and very long Street, the Houses of which +are all of the same Architecture: About the middle of it is the Square of +_St. Charles_, which is encompass’d with Houses perfectly uniform, which +would make a much more grand Appearance, if the Piazza’s, that run round +it, were but higher. After one has pass’d the Square of _St. Charles_, the +same new Street brings us to a second Square, that fronts the King’s +Palace, on the Right Hand of which stands the Palace where liv’d _Madame +Royale_, the King’s Mother: These Two Palaces have a Communication with +each other by a Gallery. + +There is nothing magnificent in the Outside of the King’s Palace, but then +the Apartments are of an elegant Taste, and richly furnish’d, and here’s a +great Number of Paintings, which good Judges reckon excellent Pieces. The +Apartment of the King and Queen takes up the first Story, and forms a +double Apartment, with a Guard-Room before it. The finest Part of the +Palace is the famous Chapel of the Holy Handkerchief; tho’ this Chapel be +a Part of the Cathedral, I make no Scruple to call it the Chapel of the +Palace, because the King always hears Mass there. I thought it a very +gloomy Place, undoubtedly because ’tis lin’d with black Marble of a +greenish Cast; and besides, there was no Brass nor Gilding to enliven all +this Black. I ask’d, what could be the Reason, why they chose black Marble +preferably to any other; and was told, that ’twas in Remembrance of the +Death of our Saviour Jesus Christ, whose Holy Handkerchief is preserv’d +over the Altar: This Altar is so made, that Two Priests may say Mass at it +together, without seeing or interrupting one another. + +On one Side of the King’s Palace stands, as I had the Honour to tell you, +the Palace of _Madame Royale_ the King’s Mother. This Building was very +inconsiderable heretofore, the Apartments being very plain, and the only +Stair-case leading to it extremely incommodious: But _Madame Royale_, who +did not value Money, caus’d great Alterations to be made in it: Among +other Embellishments she built one intire Front, for the Sake of having +one of the finest Stair-cases to it in the World; for which Reason they +say now, _That here’s a Stair-case without a Palace_, as they said before, +_That ’twas a Palace without a Stair-case_. Indeed the rest of the +Building is by no means answerable to the Magnificence of the Front and +the Stair-case; yet, as mean an Appearance as it makes without, the +Apartments within are magnificent; for look which way soever, one sees +nothing but Marble, noble Gilding, Paintings by the greatest Masters, +Pier-Glasses of a wonderful Size and Beauty, and other very rich +Furniture. This Palace had only one Garden to it, which was encompass’d on +the Three Sides by Streets and very fine Squares: The Back-Part look’d +towards that call’d the Street of the _Po_, which is one of the finest in +_Turin_. + +The Royal Family consisted first and foremost of King _Victor Amadeus_, +who marry’d a Granddaughter of _France_, nam’d _Anna-Maria_ of _Orleans_, +Daughter of _Philip_ Duke of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. and to +_Henrietta_ of _England_, by whom he has had Two Princes and Two +Princesses: The first of the Princes was _Philip-Joseph_, who dy’d the 22d +of _March_, 1715, at 15 Years of Age: The second, who is the present King +by the Resignation of the King his Father, is _Charles-Emanuel_, who +marry’d first _Anne-Christina_ of _Sultzbach_, and his second Wife was +_Polyxena_ of _Hesse Rhinfels_. + +The Two Princesses were _Mary-Adelaide_ of _Savoy_, (marry’d to the Duke +of _Burgundy_, Dauphin of _France_, Father of _Lewis_ XV.) who dy’d the +12th of _February_, 1712: And _Mary-Louisa_ of _Savoy_, (the first Wife of +_Philip_ V. the present King of _Spain_) who dy’d the 14th of _February_, +1714. + +The Queen was still living while I was at _Turin_: She was one of the most +courteous Princesses in the World, lov’d dearly to converse with her +Courtiers, and was perfectly civil to Foreigners that had the Honour to be +introduc’d to her: She dy’d the 26th of _August_, 1728. + +_Madame Royale_ the King’s Mother was very ancient; yet ’twas easy to +discover, that she had once her Share of Beauty, and she had still a fine +Shape and a majestic Air, in Spite of her great Age. + +The first Prince of the Blood of the _Savoy_ Family is _Victor Amedeus_, +the Prince of _Carignan_: This Prince happen’d not to be at _Turin_ when +I was there, his Affairs having requir’d his Presence for some time in +_France_: I had the Honour of paying my Compliments to the Princess his +Consort, who, you know, is the King’s Daughter, by the Countess of +_Verrue_. Before her Marriage she went by the Title of _Madamoseille de +Suza_: This Princess is indeed not very tall, but she is a perfect Beauty, +the Features of her Face, which are regular, being improv’d moreover by a +fair clear Complexion. All these external Perfections are supported +likewise by the best Sense and a generous Soul: She is so good-natur’d, so +civil, and has such a happy manner of expressing herself, as wins the +Hearts at the same time as it procures the Respect of those that hear her: +She has a Vivacity of Temper, which charms, and a Generosity, which is not +confin’d to Words only; and she is never better pleas’d, than when she has +an Opportunity of doing Service: This, _Madame_, is not a feign’d +Character, for I say no more than what I was Eye-Witness of myself, and +what the whole City of _Turin_ said of this Princess: And I saw with what +Regret they parted with her, when she set out to see her Husband at +_Paris_, which she did while I was at _Turin_. + +I was a constant Attendant at Court to pay my Duty to the King and all the +Royal Family: The Time that one had the Honour of speaking to his Majesty +was commonly when he went from Mass, for it was very rare to see him the +rest of the Day. After this the Company us’d to go to the Prince of +_Piedmont_’s Apartment, which was over the King’s; but one had not the +Pleasure of waiting on that Prince so often or so long as it were to be +wish’d, because he was then very much taken up with his Studies: The best +time to see him was in the Evening, when he came to the Queen’s +Drawing-Room, which was open’d about 6 or 7 o’Clock: Then the Ladies came +in their Court Dress, and were admitted into the Queen’s Chamber, where a +Chair of State was plac’d between Two Rows of Stools: The Queen came out +of her Closet with the Princesses, and as soon as she was in Reach of her +Chair, she made a Curtesy to the Right and Left, and then sate down: The +Princesses also seated themselves in Folding Chairs; but the Ladies stood +behind the Princesses, and the Gentlemen behind the Ladies: The Queen, +after a Conversation with the Princesses and the Ladies, arose, paid her +Compliments again to the Right and Left, and then retir’d; tho’ sometimes +she stopp’d in the same Chamber, to talk to such Ladies or Gentlemen as +she had a Mind to distinguish. + +From the Queen’s Drawing-Room the Company went to the Apartment of _Madame +Royale_. This Princess had a Drawing-Room in the same manner as the Queen, +only with this Difference, that the Prince of _Piedmont_ was not there, +and that after it was over, her Royal Highness permitted those Persons +that she had a Mind to honour, to follow her into her Bedchamber, where +she talk’d a long time with them, being supported all the while by one of +her Equerries. + +After her Drawing-Room was over, there was no other Person of the Royal +Family to be seen more for that Night, and then the Nobility us’d to +repair to the Princess of _Villa-Franca_’s Assembly, where there was +Variety of Gaming: There were always several Tables for Ombre, Pharo, +Lansquenet, _&c._ and I play’d there with Fortune very much on my Side, as +I had done ever since I had been in _Italy_, where Gaming, in short, had +defray’d all my Expences; insomuch that when I got to the other Side of +the Mountains, I found that I was still a Gainer by about 200 Pistoles. + +I found a great many Foreigners in the Service of the King of _Sardinia_: +The Commander of his Forces was _M. de Rhebinder_, a _Swede_, who gave +Foreigners a complete Reception, and his House was one of the best in +_Turin_. _M. de Schulembourg_, whose Family you know perfectly well, was a +Lieutenant-General: This Nobleman being a _Lutheran_, had obtain’d Leave +to have a Chaplain of his own Religion. I shall not mention the other +foreign Officers to you, because I had no particular Acquaintance with +them. + +Before I leave _Turin_, I fancy you will not be displeas’d with some +Account of the King’s Houshold, which tho’ not numerous, is very +magnificent. His Majesty has Three Companies of Life-Guards, which are +distinguish’d by the Names of _Sardinia_, _Savoy_, and _Piedmont_, and are +very well cloath’d. The King has a considerable Number of Pages, who are +brought up much more carefully than at our _German_ Courts, where one very +often forgets that the Pages are Gentlemen. Their Livery is Scarlet, with +a blue and white Velvet Lace. + +The Prince of _Piedmont_ was serv’d by the King’s Officers. + +The Queen had her separate Houshold. She had a Lady of Honour, a +Tire-Woman, and Six Maids of Honour, who were to be cashier’d, and they +talk’d of appointing Six Ladies of the Bedchamber, that were marry’d, to +attend the Queen’s Person in their room. + +_Madame Royale_ had also her Houshold and her Guards. As she was naturally +fond of Splendor, all her Court made a very gay Appearance. She had +likewise in her Service the same Number of Ladies and Maids of Honour as +the Queen had. + +There happen’d an Adventure at the Court of her Royal Highness which made +a very great Noise. Among this Princess’s Maids of Honour, who were all +very amiable, there was one that so far excell’d the rest, that her Beauty +engag’d her a great many Admirers from all Parts. Among others that +enter’d the Lists, was a young _Piedmontese_, whom I knew full well. He +was a very handsome lively Man, but a mere Rattle; so that after having +set all Engines at work to carry his Point, and sigh’d a long time, he +found himself just as far advanc’d as the first Day that he began. +However, this young Lover was not dishearten’d, but continu’d his +Addresses with a Constancy which really deserv’d some Regard; but whether +’twas owing to Virtue, or perhaps to the Fear of disgusting some favourite +Lover, the Damsel remain’d inflexible. The _Piedmontese_ being thus +rebuff’d, thought he was bound in Honour not to survive such Treatment; +but in so critical an Affair he resolv’d to do nothing rashly. He believ’d +that when the cruel Fair One saw the Despair into which she had cast him, +and the dreadful Extreme to which he was reduc’d, it might engage her to +treat him with less Severity; but it happen’d quite otherwise, insomuch +that the silly young Fellow having declar’d in plain Terms that he would +kill himself if he was to suffer Martyrdom any longer, the Damsel answer’d +him very indifferently, _Kill yourself if you will_, _what’s that to me?_ +This Expression, indeed, made the young _Piedmontese_ not so desirous to +be his own Executioner as he pretended; but nevertheless he was resolv’d +to frighten his Mistress, and leaving her very abruptly, he went and +fill’d a Bladder with Blood, and putting it very artfully under his Shirt, +he return’d to the Damsel, and threaten’d even to destroy himself in her +Presence, if she persisted in her Refusal of his Addresses. The Answer he +received being much of the same kind with the former, he cry’d out in a +Passion, _What, will you have my Life, Mademoiselle? Well then, so be it_: +At the same Instant he drew his Sword, and having prick’d the Bladder, he +fell down as if he was a dead Man; Upon this the Damsel gave a dreadful +Shriek, and Help came immediately. The great Effusion of Blood was +terrifying at the first Sight; but when the young Spark was set upon his +Legs, ’twas quickly perceiv’d by his Countenance, that the Sacrifice he +had made did not cost him very dear. The worse Luck for him, it happen’d +that _Madame Royale_ was inform’d of it that very Instant; for the +Tragi-Comedy being presently divulg’d in her Antichamber, that Princess, +in order to teach the Puppy not to fail hereafter in the Respect due to +Princes, caus’d him to be committed to a Castle not far from _Turin_, +where he was for about Two Years a Prisoner. + + * * * * * + +From _Turin_ I went the same Day to the Foot of Mount _Cenis_. I saw +nothing remarkable all the Way, except the Town of SUSA, in which were +formerly kept the Titles and Charters of the House of _Savoy_; but the +Emperor _Frederic_ I. set Fire to it, and burnt them all. + +At a little Distance from _Susa_ is a Fortress call’d LA BRUNETTE, which +is worth the Traveller’s Notice: It commands the Passage of the _Alps_, +which hereafter will for that reason be more difficult for the _French_ to +pass than formerly. Next Day after my Arrival at the Foot of Mount +_Cenis_, I prepared to pass that terrible Mountain: For this Purpose I +dismounted my Chaise, and put it with my Trunks upon the Backs of Mules; +after which I plac’d myself in a sort of Arm-Chair; and Two Men, who were +reliev’d every now-and-then by Two others, carry’d me over it in Five +Hours time. When I was on the Top of it I stopp’d, in hopes of discovering +a great Tract of Country; but saw nothing, except a great Lake, and fine +rich Meadows. On the Top of this Mountain there was a House of +Entertainment, where the Mule-Drivers and Chair-Men always refresh +themselves. This surely is the dismalest Place in the World, it being +situate in the middle of a frightful Desert, which is always, or at least +Nine Months in the Year, cover’d with Snow. One thing remarkable is, that +no Robbery is committed in this wild Place, tho’ the People upon the +Skirts of it are not to be trusted. + + * * * * * + +After I had been over Mount _Cenis_, I went to _Lanebourg_, the first +Village in _Savoy_, where Travellers get again into their Chaises. As soon +as my Equipage was remounted, I traveled to[26] CHAMBERY, the Capital of +_Savoy_. This is a City situate between Two Mountains, upon the Rivers +_Laise_ and _Albans_. ’Tis the Residence of a Parliament, consisting of +Fifteen Senators and Four Presidents, which is oblig’d for its +Institution to _Amedeus_ VIII. Duke of _Savoy_. + + * * * * * + +From _Chambery_ I went to GENEVA, a little Republic, which is an Ally of +the _Swiss_ Cantons. The City stands upon a Lake, of which it claims the +Sovereignty, as the Republic of _Venice_ does that of the _Adriatic_ Sea. +This Lake contributes very much to the Embellishment of _Geneva_, which is +built upon a Hill, in Form of an Amphitheatre; so that on one Side it +looks over the Lake, on the Banks of which are Vineyards and very pretty +Country-Houses; and on the other Side is a Prospect of a noble Plain, +Gardens, very fine Pastures, and a curious Walk form’d by a very long +Mall: On each Side are the Mountains of _Savoy_, the Tops of which being +cover’d with Snow, form a very agreeable View. + +’Tis true, that as to the _Genevese_, the Situation of their City would be +much more advantageous, if their Prospect was not so confin’d; or, at +least, if they had nothing to fear from that which forms so charming a +Point of View: For which way soever these Republicans turn their Eyes, +they easily see the Limits of their Dominions; and this little Republic +only subsists by the Jealousy of the Sovereigns their Neighbours, who will +not suffer any one of themselves to make a Conquest of it. Mean time these +People make a Parade of their Forces, and have been at considerable +Expence in fortifying the Place, tho’ for what Reason I cannot imagine; +since if any one of the neighbouring Powers came to attack _Geneva_, and +the City was not supported by the others, it would be oblig’d to +surrender, whether fortify’d or not. I should have thought it better to +have employ’d the Money expended on their new Fortifications, in +embellishing their City, and to have contented themselves with the old +Fortifications, which were more than sufficient to have given them Time +for receiving Succours in case of an Attack. + +I went to see the Arsenal, which appear’d to me to be well furnish’d, and +they have always a considerable Garison, the Soldiers of which must be all +Voluntiers; and if they once take a Dislike to the Service, they may +demand their Dismission, and their Officer cannot refuse it: Yet +notwithstanding this Liberty, the Garison is not always completer than it +should be. + +The _Genevese_ have the Reputation of being rich, and not without +Foundation; for they drive a considerable Trade, and every body there is +either a Merchant or a Manufacturer. Yet they affect a great deal of +Plainness, both in their Buildings and their Furniture. Their Houses are +not lofty, nor the Apartments very large; and both their Houshold-stuff +and Cloaths are very modest; there being a Decree of the Senate, which +forbids them to make use of Gilding in their Furniture or Apparel, for +fear, ’tis like, that Luxury, which formerly prov’d the Ruin of the +_Roman_ Republic, should be equally destructive to their petty State. + +The Senate of _Geneva_ commonly assembles in their Town-House, opposite to +which is a Guard-Room, where the Soldiers present their Arms, as the +Senators go in or out of the Assembly, or when they walk in Ceremony: Upon +these Occasions the Senate and the Ministers form Two Rows, the former on +the Right Hand, and the latter on the Left. + +The Town-House has nothing very remarkable, every thing being very plain. +In the great Hall I observ’d the Figures of Queen _Anne_ of _England_, +_Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, _Frederic William_ the Great Elector of +_Brandenbourg_, and the Landgrave of _Hesse-Cassel_; which are all so many +Proofs of those Princes Communion with the _Genevese_. You know that they +are all of the _Calvinist_ Religion, and very careful not to suffer any +other Sect to herd with them. The _Lutherans_ have a little Chamber there, +which serves for their Church, they being expresly forbid to build one. As +for the _Roman Catholics_, they are look’d upon at _Geneva_ to be all +Idolaters; insomuch that the late King of _France_ had much ado to get +Leave for Mass to be said at his Resident’s House: The _Genevese_ +Ministers at the Time that _Lewis_ XIV. caus’d this Demand to be made of +the Republic, employ’d all their Engines to hinder its being granted; but +all their Measures were in vain: and they were given to understand, that +it would be imprudent to disoblige so great a Prince. + +The Reverend Gentlemen their Ministers make so considerable a Figure in +the State, that I must just mention them. They are reverenc’d as so many +Bishops; every one of them in his respective Pulpit issues his Mandate, +and decides Matters of Faith in the Dernier Resort: But tho’ they are all +of the same Religion, they are some times very different from one another +in Opinion. Nevertheless, be they ever so divided one among another, they +join hand in hand when they have a Mind to inveigh against the Pope, the +Court of _Rome_, the Bishops, and especially the Jesuits; for they can’t +endure the latter: And ’tis rare for a Minister to be so much Master of +his Temper, as to keep strictly to his Text, without rambling from it to +lash those Fryars. + +As to the Gentlemen of the Government, it must be confess’d they are very +charitable. They have caus’d a magnificent Hospital to be built, on which +they have settled great Revenues, and where the Poor are very well +maintain’d. Here poor Passengers are admitted for one Day, and, after +having been entertain’d with Lodging and Food, are dismiss’d the next Day, +with some Money in their Pockets to proceed in their journey. This same +Hospital serves also for a House of Correction for loose young Fellows and +Women, over whom the Police at _Geneva_ carries a very strict Hand. I wish +I could say as much of the Trading Part of this City, who it may be are +very civil People; but the Dispute I had with one of the most eminent of +them, makes me very much suspect their Honesty; and this was what gave me +an Opportunity to know a little of the Character of the Tradesmen of +_Geneva_. ’Tis true, that I had nothing to do but with one of them; but as +I was recommended to him alone, as a Man of the greatest Integrity in +_Geneva_, I think I do not judge rashly of all the rest, by laying no more +Dishonesty to their Charge than what I met with in this so much applauded +Banker. + +When I was preparing to quit _Geneva_, I had about the Value of 400 +Pistoles, Part old Species and Part _Spanish_ Pistoles; but I heard at the +same time, that such Pieces were prohibited to pass in _France_, and +therefore I was advis’d to get rid of them, and to take Bills of Exchange +for them upon _Lyons_. I made no Hesitation to comply with this Advice, +and went to find out the Man that was recommended to me for the honestest +Banker in all _Geneva_. As Bills began at that time to sink very much in +Credit, I bargain’d with him, that I should not be put off at _Lyons_, +upon any Pretence whatever, with any thing less than ready Money. As all +this was only verbal, the Banker made me the most solemn Promise, and +back’d it with an Oath, that it should be as I would have it. Relying on +Promises, which were in Appearance so authentic, I told down my Money, and +when he took it, he added, That if the Banker at _Lyons_ should happen to +refuse me Specie, I need only send him back his Bill of Exchange, and I +might depend on being paid in ready Money. Not doubting of this honest +Man’s Sincerity, I set out from _Geneva_ with his Bill of Exchange, and a +small matter of Money that I had reserv’d, just to bear my Expences on the +Road. As soon as I came to _Lyons_, I went to the Banker to whom the +_Genevese_ directed me, and presented my Bill of Exchange, for which I saw +he was going to give me Paper; but I immediately refus’d to be paid in +that sort of Coin, and told him the Agreement I had made at _Geneva_. He +said to me, that he was not oblig’d to stand to an Agreement which he was +no ways privy to, and advis’d me to send back my Bill to _Geneva_. I took +his Advice, and wrote to my Banker, that what we had agreed upon would not +be comply’d with; but he was so tedious in returning me an Answer, that I +thought once I should have had neither Money nor Bills, and that by +consequence my Case would have been very melancholy, the little Sum I had +reserv’d for my Journey to _Lyons_ being soon spent. However, at Three +Weeks End the _Genevese_ Banker sent back my Bill of Exchange, and +stiffly deny’d that he had made any other Bargain with me, than that I +should be paid in the Current Money, which was Bills. I plainly perceiv’d +that there was no Remedy but Submission, therefore I took the Bills and +set out Post from _Lyons_ for _Paris_. + +I found great Alterations in this City since I was here last. The Peace +with _Spain_ was establish’d: Most of the Prisoners that had been +concern’d in the Prince of _Cellamare_’s Affair, were then at Liberty: +Some, indeed, that were the most guilty, or the most useless to the State, +had been banish’d the Kingdom; and the greatest Part were retir’d to +_Spain_, where I saw some of them in such a poor Plight, that they wish’d +themselves again in the _Bastille_, where they were at least well fed. + +The Duke Regent, for his Part, after having thus pacify’d some Persons to +whom his Authority gave Umbrage, had made Provision also for the +Establishment of some of his Daughters. For the One he had provided the +Abbey of _Chelles_, upon the Resignation of _Madame de Villars_, who was +the Abbess. The Second, who was call’d _Madamoiselle de Valois_, had been +just marry’d to the Hereditary Prince of _Modena_, and set out with a +Paraphernalia more grand than what is given to the Daughters of _France_. +The same Honours were paid to her upon the Road, as are commonly paid to +the Daughters of the King; and that there might be Substance answerable +to all this Splendor, the Duke of _Modena_ had bargain’d for a very +considerable Portion, payable in the Species of _Italy_, rather than be +expos’d to all the Revolutions of the _French_ Coin; in which that Prince +made a wise Bargain, for every Day was remarkable for one _Arret_ or +other relating to the Species. Nevertheless, those _Arrets_ did not look +as if they would be long in Force; at least, the Thing which they had +principally in View, absolutely came to nothing. There being therefore no +Gold nor Silver of which they could lower the Value, it was thought +expedient to touch the only Species left, I mean the Bank Bills, which in +their Turn were subject to various Revolutions, that were of the worse +Consequence to those wretched Effect; because, as they had no intrinsic +Value, they might very easily relapse into their original Nothing. They +say, that the Disaster which befel these Bills, was owing to Mr. _Law_’s +Enemies, who envy’d the Credit which they saw this Foreigner had with the +Regent; and of this nothing was a greater Demonstration than the +Difficulty they had to succeed in their Undertaking. But at length they +brought their Designs to bear; and after having remonstrated several +times, but always to no Purpose, that the Bills did a considerable Injury +to Trade; that several Merchants were oblig’d to shut up their Shops, +because ’twas impossible to trade without Money; that private People, +whose Substance lay intirely in Annuities, being paid off in Bills, could +not subsist long, since Tradesmen would not accept of those Bills for more +than the Value express’d upon them: In fine, the Regent being quite +wearied out with the continual Solicitations of these Remonstrants, +yielded to their Importunity, and consented to the suppressing of the +Bills. But as it was very evident that it would be impossible to annul +them all at once, it was resolv’d to do it by Degrees: Therefore, on the +21st of _May_, there came out an _Arret_, which lower’d the Bills from +_10 per Cent. per Month_, to one half of their Value. This _Arret_ +occasion’d some Tumult; all _Paris_ was ready to rise in Arms, and so +great was the Throng of People one pay to the Bank, that several were +stifled in the Crowd, whose Bodies were carry’d by the mutinous Mob to the +Court of the Royal Palace. Mr. _Law_, to whom they ow’d a Grudge for +having given the Hint of so pernicious a Project, did not dare to shew his +Head. In short, the Ferment seem’d to work so strong, that the Regent +plainly perceiv’d ’twas impossible, at that Juncture, to inforce the +_Arret_ that had been newly issued; and chose to have it revok’d, in hopes +of regaining the Confidence of the Public. But it was intirely lost, every +one deserted the Bank; and notwithstanding the Menaces given out, that the +Species would be lower’d, People rather chose to keep their Money, which +would be always worth something, than to incumber themselves with Bills, +which, whenever the Prince took the Whim, would only be attended with the +melancholy Reflection by the Possessors, that they were once well to pass. +In Fact, notwithstanding the Revocation of the _Arret_, the Bills sunk +considerably every Day. Then it was that the Term of _Realising_ became +the favourite Word of the Time, that is to say, when the Generality of +private Men, who had any Bills, endeavour’d to exchange them, not for +Money, which at that Time seem’d to be bury’d again in the Earth, from +whence its Original was dug, but for real Effects: Some bought Diamonds, +others Plate, some Merchandize: In short, every wise Man got rid of his +Paper; and even the Nobility turn’d Merchants: Particularly one of them, +who was of the first Rank[27], had a considerable Warehouse stor’d with +Coffee, Wax-Candles, Grocery-Wares, and the like Goods, to sell again. The +Parliament took Cognisance of these Acquisitions, but his only Punishment +was the Mortification he receiv’d from those Gentlemen; and he was left in +Possession of the Grocery-Wares, Coffee, _&c._ + +At this very critical Time, when the Bills were reduc’d, did I arrive at +_Paris_; which City was then like a Wood for harbouring Robbers and +Murderers; and, in Fact, the Ease of carrying the Fortunes of a great many +People in a Pocket-Book was a great Temptation to Thieves: Moreover, +notwithstanding the Scarcity of Money, Luxury, Debauchery and Gaming were +arriv’d at the highest Pitch, and young Deboshees were guilty of the most +shocking Enormities to satisfy their Extravagance: To this Purpose I was +told a Story, that about the End of _Lent_ 1721, the Count _de Horn_, a +young Nobleman, related to the chief Families in _Europe_, was one of +Three that basely murder’d a poor Wretch, who got his Livelihood by +negociating Shares and Bills for other People: As this Man’s Letter-Case +seem’d to be full of Effects, that must amount to a considerable Sum, the +Count appointed him to come to a Tavern in _St. Martin_’s Street, on +Pretence of buying some Shares of him; when he came, he took him into a +Back-Room, which he had bespoke for the Purpose; and just as he was +opening his Letter-Case upon the Table, the Count and Two Comrades threw a +Cloth over his Head, and then cruelly stabb’d him with Daggers: The +unhappy Man made such a Noise while they were in the Act of murdering him, +that it brought some body up Stairs, but they had taken Care to fasten +the Chamber-Door in the Inside, so that ’twas impossible to enter it, and +the Count and his Accomplices made their Escape out of a Window, that +look’d into a little Street on one Side of the Tavern, from whence, tho’ +they were in the second Story, they got down very easily, by the Favour of +some Beams, which were laid across the Street to support the Two Houses: +The Count’s Comrades thought of nothing less than flying their Country, +but there was only one of them that was so fortunate as to get into +foreign Parts, the other was apprehended about the Fish-Market, and +carry’d before a Commissary. The Count, on his Part, instead of +endeavouring to make his Escape, went and complain’d to a Commissary, of +an Attempt that had been made to assassinate him: His wild Stare and his +bloody Hand and Ruffles made the Commissary suspect there was something +more than ordinary in this Complaint, and he desir’d that he would carry +him to the Place where he said that he ran such a Risque of his Life; +which he scrupling to do, the Commissary sent for the Archers to carry him +thither by Force. The Count, before he set out, desir’d Leave to step +aside, to ease himself from the Impression, which he pretended the Danger +had made upon him; but, as it came out afterwards, it was only to drop the +Letter-Case, of which he had robb’d the Stockjobber, into the Privy: This +done, he set out with the Commissary, and the Truth of the Fact was soon +discover’d; for the Vintner having caus’d the Room to be broke open, the +Sight of the Corpse and the bloody Daggers were so many Evidences of the +Count’s Guilt, who was thereupon committed Prisoner to the _Chatelet_, +try’d the following Week, and condemn’d, together with his Accomplice, to +be broke alive upon the Wheel in the Place _de Greve_; which Sentence was +executed accordingly on the _Tuesday_ in the Holy Week. While he was yet a +Prisoner, all the foreign Nobility at _Paris_ labour’d hard to obtain his +Pardon, or at least that he might only be beheaded; to the end that the +Infamy of his Punishment on the Wheel might not be cast as a Reproach upon +his Family: But the Duke Regent made no other Answer, than that the Count +was as near akin to him as he was to them, but that ’twas the Crime, and +not the Punishment, that brought a Stain upon Families: The Count _de +Horn_ made a truly Christian Exit; for the religious Principles, which he +had once imbib’d from an Education suitable to his Birth, but which he had +the Misfortune to stifle, reviv’d at this dreadful Crisis; and made him +submit to dye with a Resignation which we seldom see in Persons that come +to such a violent Death. + +The Fall of the Bills was not the only Misfortune that _France_ labour’d +under; for it was visited at the same time by a Pestilence: I was one Day +at the Duke Regent’s Levee, when he himself declar’d the melancholy News, +that at _Marseilles_ there was a Plague: This at first struck a sensible +Damp upon People, but ’twas quickly forgot, and they abandon’d themselves +more than ever to Pleasures, Feasting, Gallantry, _&c._ Gaming indeed was +not carry’d to that Height as usual, because it could not be done without +ready Money, the Bills having no Credit then, except what was forc’d; but +as to Trade, it decay’d every Day more and more; and the Merchants, who +had so long stiffly refus’d the Bank Bills, were nevertheless soon oblig’d +to accept them, being sensible, that if they rejected them any longer, +they should be under a Necessity, either to make no more Sales, or to sell +upon Credit; which was an Alternative equally destructive of Trade, which +is only to be supported by the Circulation of Species, or at least by +something equivalent. + +Humanity, and the Concern I had for the Fate of my Friends, made me a +Sharer in the public Calamities; but for the rest, I pass’d my Time well +enough: I went to an Estate of a Friend of mine near _Orleans_, where I +spent about Six Weeks, and then return’d to _Paris_, where I stay’d no +longer than just to make due Preparation for my Tour to _Spain_: I +travell’d by the way of _Lyons_ and _Languedoc_, purely for the Pleasure +of seeing several of my Friends, who had Estates in those Places, and from +_Lyons_ I proceeded to _Vienne_ in _Dauphine_: From thence I repass’d the +_Rhosne_, and travelling thro’ the _Vivarese_, I went to an Estate near +_Nismes_, that belong’d to a Friend of mine, with whom I stay’d a Month: +At _Nismes_ I went to take a View of the famous Amphitheatres, which are +the precious Remains of the _Roman_ Antiquities. + + * * * * * + +From _Nismes_ I went to MONTPELIER, which in my Opinion is one of the most +agreeable Cities in the World; and where, next to _Paris_, there’s the +most good Company: The Situation of it is charming, it being not far from +the Sea, and encompass’d with very fertile Fields, that form a very +charming Prospect. The Houses are not well built, but are all very neat +within, and well furnish’d: The Streets are so narrow, that ’tis difficult +to pass them with an Equipage, so that Gentlemen commonly make Use of +Sedans: The Out-parts of the Town are very pleasant, especially towards +the Sea. In this Part is a great Square, in Form of a Terrace, surrounded +with Trees, in the middle of which is a magnificent Equestrian Statue of +_Lewis_ XIV. on a great Pedestal of white Marble: The Connoisseurs say, +’tis a complete Piece in all its Parts. + + * * * * * + +After having spent some Days at _Montpelier_, I proceeded towards +_Toulouse_: I went first thro’ BEZIERS, an Episcopal City, the Situation +of which is so pleasant, that ’tis become a common Proverb, _If God were +to chuse his Residence upon Earth, he would certainly chuse_ Beziers. ’Tis +even said, that the Inhabitants of the Country, the Gentry especially, +have more Sense and Conduct than they have elsewhere: Yet, at different +Courts, I have seen several Persons, Natives of this City, who were really +so stupid, that the Notion I have of the Inhabitants of _Beziers_ is the +very contrary of what they would fain make me believe. + + * * * * * + +From _Beziers_ I travell’d to CASTELNAUDARI, in the Neighbourhood of which +City was fought the Battle wherein the famous Constable _Montmorency_ was +taken in Arms against his King. _Lewis_ XIII. having, at the Solicitation +of Cardinal _Richelieu_, order’d his Head to be cut off, he receiv’d the +Stroke of Death with a Constancy worthy of his Name, and of a better +Cause. + + * * * * * + +From this City I went in a very little time to Toulouse, the Capital of +_Languedoc_, and the Seat of a Parliament, which is the second in the +Kingdom: The Cathedral, dedicated to _St. Stephen_, is a magnificent Pile +of Building, in a large Square, adorn’d with a fine Fountain, in which +rises an Obelisk, that is a complete Piece of Work: The Archbishop’s +Palace, which joins to the Cathedral, is an entire new Building, wherein +no Cost has been spar’d: As to the Houses of _Toulouse_, in common they +are well enough built, but without any Ornament: The Streets are pretty +broad, but very nasty; so that I inferr’d, the Civil Government here was +not very strict: As to the People of _Toulouse_, I own to you, _Madame_, +that I could like their Way of Living well enough: They have all a great +Share of Wit, but the worst on’t is, they are conceited, which does them a +Prejudice: But they are very civil, especially to Foreigners, whom they +entertain perfectly well: I don’t think that I ever fed better, and liv’d +more merrily than I did with these People, who are all of ’em good Jokers: +The Accent of this Country too, especially of the Women, sets off whatever +they say to such an Advantage, as seems to give a witty Turn to even the +most common Thoughts: Little Songs or Ballads are, as it were, the Fruits +of the Soil: Every one is a Sonneteer, and if their Verses are not equally +good, yet they are all relish’d alike, they have such a happy way of +setting them off. + +To the Honour of the _Languedocians_ be it spoken, there is not a Province +in _France_, nor even in _Europe_, where ’tis pleasanter Travelling: The +Roads are magnificent, the Inns well provided with every thing that a +Traveller, were he hard to please, can desire; and all at a reasonable +Price. + + * * * * * + +From _Toulouse_ I travell’d to PAU, a City and Parliament of _Bearn_, +famous for the Birth of _Henry_ IV. on the 1st of _December, Anno 1557_, +for which Reason _Catherine de Medicis_ his Mother-in-Law, who did not +love him, call’d him the _Bearnois_: In the Castle is still to be seen the +Chamber where this Prince was born: This City consists but of one great +Street, at the End whereof stands the Castle, which is very ancient. The +Houses in general seem’d very inconsiderable, they being all low, small, +and without Ornament; but the Suburbs are very pleasant: As one goes out +of the Gate, towards the _Pyrenees_, there’s a very thick Wood, with +several Alleys cut out in it, that form a noble Walk: From this Wood, +which stands upon very high Ground to the _Pyrenees_, one sees an +extensive Valley, in which runs a very fine River, on the Banks whereof +are several scattering Villages and little Hamlets, that form one of the +most agreeable Prospects. + + * * * * * + +In Travelling from _Pau_ to BAYONNE ’twas plain that we were got out of +_Languedoc_, the Roads being terrible, and the Inns detestable, for which +Reason I did not halt at all by the Way, but made Haste to _Bayonne_: The +next Day after I arriv’d, I went to pay a Visit to the King’s Lieutenant, +who commanded there: He was a Native of _Canada_, and, if I am not +mistaken, had been a Major or Lieutenant-Colonel in the Regiment of +_Normandy_: The Duke Regent had made him a Brigadier, and at the same time +created him a Knight of _St. Lewis_, at that great Promotion of Knights +which he made at the Beginning of the War with _Spain_: He had given him +for his Assistant one _Dadoncourt_, as a Man that he could depend on; and +’twas this Gentleman that receiv’d me, the King’s Lieutenant being at that +time absent from _Bayonne_: I lik’d this _Dadoncourt_ at first Sight: He +entertain’d me politely, and when I told him my Intention to go to +_Spain_; he said, I might do as I pleas’d, and that he saw nothing to +hinder it: He came next Day to see me, and invited me to dine with him: I +accepted his Kindness, but afterwards repented it; for the Company was far +from being select, and the Conversation very much disgusted me: In my +first Interview with _Dadoncourt_ I made Mention to him of a Visit that I +had paid to the Count _de S----_ in _Languedoc_: He talk’d of this to me +very much while we were at Dinner, and he declar’d his Astonishment, that +the Duke Regent had restor’d him to his Liberty, instead of cutting off +his Head, as he had deserv’d: _Really_, said he, with some Warmth of +Temper, to which I fancy the Wine had in some measure contributed, _His +Royal Highness was too good-natur’d; all those Rascals, that presum’d to +have a Hand in the Prince of_ Cellamare_’s Affair, ought to have paid for +it with their Heads_: I could not help being amaz’d at the Man’s Pertness, +and told him very mildly, that the Regent had behav’d most wisely, and +that it would have been too cruel to put People of the first Quality to +Death, the Spilling of whose Blood would perhaps have rous’d some +Vengeance: _Alas! Sir_, said he, _What could have been done? The Duke of_ +Orleans _was sure of the Guards and Garisons; every body in the Country +would certainly have stood up in his Defence, and I myself would have been +the Hangman to have tuck’d up the first Gentleman that had offer’d to make +a Disturbance_: I plainly saw that I had to do with a surly Companion; and +perceiving also that he was fuddled, I let him run on as much as he would, +in magnifying the Attachment he pretended he had to the Duke Regent; but +made a Promise to myself, that it should be the last time I would visit a +Man that was so bloody-minded. + +After Dinner was over, I went to have Audience of the Queen of _Spain_, +_Mary-Anne_ of _Neubourg_, the Dowager of _Charles_ II. When I came to the +Palace, or rather to a very pitiful House, where the Queen was lodg’d, I +found one of her Equerries, who carry’d me to an Antichamber, and leaving +me for a few Moments, he came again, and conducted me to the Apartment of +the Duchess of _Liquares_, Lady of Honour to the Queen; who was +prodigiously civil to me, but, as she understood no Language besides the +_Spanish_, it was impossible for us to converse, otherwise than by Signs, +of which she gave me a good Number, and which I answer’d by as many Bows. +As good Luck would have it, we were disengag’d from one another by an +Order that came to her, to carry me to the Queen: I found her Majesty +standing all alone in her Chamber, and dress’d in Black after the +_Spanish_ Mode: I saw in the next Chamber some of the Maids of Honour, who +were also in the _Spanish_ Dress, and peep’d in at the Door, which was +left half open: The Queen receiv’d me very graciously, ask’d my Name and +my Country, and seem’d overjoy’d to find a _German_, who was tolerably +acquainted with a Country for which she had always an Affection: She +inquir’d what News I brought of the Elector and the Princes her Brothers: +I was qualify’d to satisfy her Majesty in all those Questions, because I +had the Honour of paying my Court punctually to the Elector Palatine, and +the Princes her Brothers: In fine, after an Audience of an Hour and more, +the Queen dismiss’d me, when I stoop’d with one Knee to the Ground, and +kiss’d her Hand, according to the Custom that is observ’d in _Spain_. + +The next and the following Days I had the Honour to pay my Duty to her; +sometimes in the Capuchins Convent, where she heard Mass very often; and +sometimes in that of the Cordeliers, to which her Majesty went almost +every Afternoon to Prayers: At other times I repair’d to a Garden behind +the House, where her Majesty frequently took a Walk after she had din’d. +This Princess always express’d herself in such a kind familiar manner as +charm’d me, and she was often glad to be disencumber’d from that Ceremony, +which is no less fatiguing to the Princes who grant Audience, than to +those who are admitted to it: She did me the Honour to ask me one Day, +Whether I did not wonder to see her in such mean Lodgings, and with such a +despicable Court? I own’d to her, that at first I was a little surpriz’d +at her Majesty’s preferring such a Mansion to the old Castle in the Town, +which really look’d more like a Palace than the House she liv’d in: _But_, +said she, _I am so us’d to my little Habitation, that I can’t find in my +Heart to leave it: I retir’d to it during the Contention between the +Houses of_ Austria _and_ Bourbon, _that I might not be so much exposed to +Company, as I must have been unavoidably, if I had resided in the Castle, +where every Passenger, either from_ Spain _or_ France, _would no doubt +have been desirous of seeing me; all which Visits would infallibly have +given Umbrage to one or other of the Two Parties, if not to Both; and I +had good Reasons to keep fair with each._ + +Another Day, when I had the Honour to discourse with her about _Spain_ and +_Germany_, I took the Freedom to tell her, that I wonder’d why her +Majesty chose rather to stay at _Bayonne_, than to live in one or other of +those Countries where I fancy’d she would have more Authority, and more +People of Quality to attend her. _As for your Persons of Quality_, said +the Queen, _I do not give myself much Trouble about them: All Men are +alike to crown’d Heads, and are great no farther than as we bring them to +our Courts, and honour them with our Confidence. A Man that you now call a +Scrub, perhaps, if I were to give him a Post To-morrow, and admit him to +my Service, he is to me as great a Lord as if his Ancestors had liv’d and +dy’d in the same Employment. And as for residing in_ Spain _or in_ +Germany, _I have weighty Reasons against dwelling in either. For in_ Spain +_I should be oblig’d to live in a Convent, which is my utter Aversion. In_ +Germany _I should, indeed, have all my Family about me; but the Court of_ +Spain _would, perhaps, be uneasy at my living in the Empire, and I should +be teiz’d in respect to my Dowry, which I am very willing to preserve_. + +All these Reasons, and what was more than all, a long Acquaintance, made +her loth to quit _Bayonne_; and that Retirement she enjoy’d there, was +more agreeable to her Taste, than the Bustle of a numerous Court, where +very often the Prince and the Courtier tread on one another’s Toes. The +Air of Freedom which reign’d at this little Court, and the Queen’s +Goodness in conversing with me so often, was the reason that I put off my +Journey to _Spain_ from one Day to another. At last, however, after +various Delays, I prepar’d in good earnest for my Departure. But at the +very Time when I thought I had nothing more to do than to take my Leave of +her Majesty, a very disgraceful Incident happen’d to me, which put me as +much out of Conceit with _Bayonne_ as I was before in Love with it. By +some imprudent Jokes that I had thrown out in Conversation, I had incurr’d +the Displeasure of the King’s Lieutenant, who made use of a specious +Pretext in order to be reveng’d of me. I will tell you my Tale in a few +Words as follows: + +There was a Woman at the Queen’s Court, who, by her Frankness, in which +there was a Mixture of Impertinence, made her Court to the Queen with so +much Art, that her Majesty was kinder to her than any Services she was +capable of performing could deserve at her Hands. This Woman’s Name was +_la Borde_: She was a Merchant’s Widow, but married afterwards +clandestinely to the Queen’s _Major-Domo_, and had the intire Government +of her Majesty’s House, where she did not fail to give her daily +Attendance. + +The Queen having permitted this Woman to sit in her Presence, it made her +so vain, that she forgot her mean Original, and affected the Air of a +Princess; but so ill did it become her, that she was quickly hated for it, +not only by the Queen’s Officers, but by the whole City of _Bayonne_. The +only Person who was attach’d to her, was the King’s Lieutenant; and that, +for no other Reason, but because this Officer being in a poor Plight when +he came first to _Bayonne_, and having moreover little to depend on, was +oblig’d to solicit the Queen for some Gratifications, in which _Madame la +Borde_ had employ’d her Interest to serve him: And serve him she did +without much Difficulty, because the Queen is so good-natur’d and +generous, that she is never better pleas’d than when she is bestowing +Favours. The Grotesque Figure of the King’s Lieutenant, and the queer +Dress of the Lady _la Borde_, were an inexhaustible Fund of Mirth for the +Queen’s Houshold. In short, ’twas impossible for a Person of the most +serious Gravity, not to laugh on the one hand at the old shock Pate of the +Lieutenant, who was vulgarly call’d _The Eternal Father_, and on the other +hand to see Dame _la Borde_, who was commonly wrapp’d up in Three or Four +Night-Gowns of different Colours one over another, and one shorter than +the other, whose favourite Head-Geer was Cornets fix’d on, with a careless +Air, by Scarlet Ribbons, and who had a monstrous Nosegay of Flowers ty’d +to one Side of her, with a Straw-colour’d Ribbon, and the Picture of some +unknown Saint fasten’d also to the other, by a Ribbon of the same Colour: +And to all these Gowns, a little Lackey, every whit as ridiculous as the +Mistress, was the Train-Bearer. I profess to you, _Madame_, that I could +not contain myself at the Sight of such ridiculous Figures; and therefore, +being once with some Company at Supper, when I was in a gay Humour, I let +fall some very severe Banters upon this charming Couple; of which the +King’s Lieutenant being inform’d, vow’d Revenge; and I was advertis’d by a +_German_ Cordelier, who was the Queen’s Confessor, that there was a Design +to apprehend me. But not being conscious of any Crime I had committed to +deserve it, I thought, at first, ’twas only given out to terrify me. +Nevertheless, I went to _Dadoncourt_, and, without mentioning any Name, +acquainted him of the Warning that had been given to me. He swore by his +Honour, and call’d to God to witness it, that he never had a Thought of +arresting me; and that I was free to go when and where I pleas’d. Upon +this I went back to my Quarters, almost persuaded that I had been falsly +alarm’d; but no sooner was I in my Chamber, but the Major of the Place +enter’d, with a subaltern Officer and a couple of Soldiers, with their +Bayonets at the End of their Musquets. He told me, that he was come in the +King’s Name to arrest me, and that he had Orders to commit me to the +Citadel, together with my _Valet de Chambre_. He also demanded all my +Papers, and the Keys of my Coffers; and whatever he ask’d for I gave him. +He left my Cloaths, _&c._ to the Care of my Landlord, charging him to be +answerable for them; and then carry’d me to the Citadel, where I was put +into one Room, and my _Valet de Chambre_ into another; and a Centinel was +clapp’d at my Door, who was order’d to let no Person whatsoever come to +speak to me. Towards the Evening, when they brought me Supper, I desir’d +Pen, Ink, and Paper, which was presently granted, and I wrote to the +King’s Lieutenant, to be inform’d of the Reason why he had put me under an +Arrest, and at the same Time to know whether I might be permitted to write +into _France_ to the Duke Regent and my Friends. He sent me Answer next +Day, that the only Cause of my being a Prisoner was, that I had discover’d +too much Friendship to the Count _de S----_: That I ought to remember what +I said of the Count before his Face, in Presence of Witnesses, which had +given him a Suspicion that I was but too deeply concern’d in the +Conspiracy he had fomented against the Regent: That in Consequence, +especially as he had not the Honour to know me, he should have thought it +a Failure of his Duty, if he had not secur’d my Person: That, for the +rest, he would write to Court, and that, if it appear’d I was not guilty +of any thing, I should soon be set at Liberty. He concluded his Letter +with Assurances of his Friendship, and a Protestation that he would do +what he could to serve me. + +Since I knew not what I could do better, as my Circumstances then were, I +was glad to depend upon the good Offices which the King’s Lieutenant +proffer’d to do me; and in order to compose myself a little, I lay a Bed +as long as ever ’twas possible; for the only Remedy that could render my +Imprisonment tolerable was Sleep: But when I awak’d, a thousand different +Thoughts rack’d my Brain: Projects brooded over Projects, and I imagin’d +Schemes without Number for Deliverance out of my Scrape; but they were no +other than so many Castles in the Air, which instantly vanish’d as soon as +I came to serious Reflection. + +Having pass’d my Time thus for several Days, I receiv’d a Visit, which at +first did not please me. Who should enter my Room, but an Officer, a +Serjeant, and Four Soldiers, with their Bayonets in their Musquets. The +Officer told me I must go with him to the Major of the Citadel, who was +appointed to examine me. Being in a Situation wherein ’twas my wisest way +to be tractable, I follow’d the Officer. When we came before the Major, we +found him sitting in an Elbow-Chair: He was wonderful civil to me, and +desir’d me to excuse him for not rising up to receive me, because he was +so afflicted with the Gout that he could not stir. Then he pray’d me to +sit down, and ask’d me who and what I was, whence and whither I was bound, +and the like: To all those Questions I return’d very _Laconic_ Answers, +which, together with the Questions, were reduc’d to Writing, and I was +made to sign them; and then I was carry’d back to my Chamber. + +Two Days after this my _Valet de Chambre_ was set at Liberty, and had +Leave to attend me. I was also permitted to receive a Visit from one +Father _Thomas_, a _German_ Capuchin. These two Favours, granted both at +once, pleas’d me mightily; and I entertain’d great Hopes that my own +Liberty was approaching: So that every time I heard the Rattle of the +Keys, I imagin’d my Keeper was coming to tell me that I was no longer his +Prisoner. I flatter’d myself that the Duke Regent would give Orders for my +Discharge, and therefore was impatient to hear from him: But when I heard, +the Message was very different from what I expected: For _Dadoncourt_ sent +me a Note, acquainting me, that he had receiv’d Orders from Court to +confine me more closely. He not only executed his Orders, but I really +believe he exceeded them; for, not content with depriving me a second Time +of my _Valet de Chambre_, and forbidding Father _Thomas_ to come near me, +’twas no Thanks to him that I had not been starv’d to Death with Hunger +and Cold. He was afraid that my bare Imprisonment was not Punishment +enough, and therefore he treated me with all the Severity that could be. +My Commons were retrench’d one half; and as to Firing, it was intirely +suppress’d, for fear I should set Fire to the Citadel. I therefore wrote +to him, and made an Offer to purchase it at my own Expence, if he would +give me Leave: But he made me Answer, that a _Prussian_ could not be so +chilly as to be sensible of the Cold in _Guyenne_; and he was so +impertinent as to add, that if I was really cold, he would have me keep +my Bed. Nor was this all: Money was so scarce with me, that I was resolv’d +to discount the Bank Bills I had left, which were almost sunk to nothing. +But _Dadoncourt_ no sooner heard of it, than he sent the Banker an Order +not to discount them, for fear, perhaps, that I should make use of the +Money to corrupt my Keepers. Moreover, he abus’d his Authority to such a +Degree, that he caus’d my Cloaths &_c_. to be sold, to pay for what I had +run up at my Quarters while I stay’d at _Bayonne_. I would fain have +prevented this Sale, but ’twas to no Purpose, for I could not get Leave so +much as to send a Friend thither to take Care that every thing was done +with tolerable Decency; so that _Dadoncourt’s Valet de Chambre_ bought the +whole for one Eighth Part of the Value; and I could never get a just +Account what the Profit of the Sale amounted to. ’Tis true, that when I +was restor’d to my Liberty, they did not demand any Money of me. + +So many Injuries offer’d to me, one upon the Neck of another, exasperated +me not a little. I wrote several Letters not only to the Duke of +_Orleans_, but _M. le Blanc_, Secretary of War, and sent them to the +Post-House at _Acqs_ by a Soldier, who undertook to deliver them for some +Money, which I handed to him, together with my Letters, thro’ a Chink of +my Door: But it all signify’d nothing. I likewise wrote a Letter to the +Queen of _Spain_, but that Princess, who then deem’d me a State Criminal, +did not care to be concern’d for me: Which Denial of her’s completed my +Despair, and I took it so much to Heart, that I fell sick, but they would +not allow me a Physician. + +At this very Time the Baron _de Montbel_ came to _Bayonne_, and hearing +that I was a Prisoner in the Citadel, he desir’d to see me. This Baron, +who was by Birth a _Frenchman_, went to _Berlin_ at the Time of the +Revocation of the Edict of _Nantes_: He had an Employment given him at +that Court, and had been a Captain in the Regiment which was my late +Father’s. He was going at this Time to _Spain_. _Dadoncourt_ refus’d +point-blank to let him come and see me. Then the Baron desir’d Leave to +send me his Compliments by my _Valet de Chambre_, which _Dadoncourt_ +granted, but ’twas only to affront me the more grosly; for my _Valet de +Chambre_ was no sooner enter’d into the Citadel, but he was search’d, in +order to know if he had not Letters for me; and none being found upon him, +_Dadoncourt_ said he was sure that the Baron had given him Letters to +deliver to me, and that he must and should produce them. My Man still +denying that he had receiv’d any Letter, was thrown into a Dungeon, where +he was threatened he should lie till he rotted, if he did not confess that +Letters had been given or offer’d to him for me. + +This, _Madame_, was my melancholy Situation at _Bayonne_, having been +arrested on sham Pretences, pining with Hunger and Cold, depriv’d of all +Help, abandon’d by a Princess on whose Protection I had great Dependance, +and having nothing to comfort me: I had a good Conscience indeed, which +did not reproach me with any thing laid to my Charge; but this is a weak +Support, when a Man is to cope with such Enemies as make no more to +destroy the Innocent than the Guilty! A Persecution so unjust plung’d me +sometimes into Melancholy, and at other times made me raving mad; so that +when I came to myself, I was afraid I should lose all my Reason. At last +this Disturbance of my Mind, all these Passions subsided happily in a +Philosophical Calm, which restor’d me to myself. When I was composed, I +reason’d justly enough: I consider’d, that to fret and vex myself to +Death, would be the greatest Folly I could be guilty of; and that there +was no other Remedy but Time and Patience: I resolv’d therefore to +acquiesce like a true Philosopher; and I said to myself, that I had +nothing more to do but to be as easy as I could in the Citadel, till +_Lewis_ XV. was declar’d of Age. + +I had just begun to be reconcil’d to my Chamber and to Silence, when News +was brought me of my Liberty: ’Twas on the 31st of _January_ that +_Dadoncourt’s Valet de Chambre_ came and told me, that his Master had +received Orders from Court to let me out of the Citadel; but that, as it +was late, he desir’d me to stay there that Night, and that next Day I +might go where I pleas’d: I consented to lye one Night more in the +Citadel; but next Day _Dadoncourt_, without Regard to the Assurance he had +sent me that I should have my full Liberty, and, by Consequence, either +stay or set out that Instant, as I pleas’d; sent to ask me what time I +intended to go for _Spain_; adding, that he had received Orders to send me +thither, and not to suffer me to stay any longer in _Bayonne_: I return’d +him a short Answer, but said enough to him to give him to understand, that +I was not in a Condition to set out, because, as my whole Substance +consisted in Bank Bills, which were at that time worth little or nothing, +I was under a Necessity of staying till I had discounted them, and that in +the mean time I was content to remain in the Citadel, till I could raise +Money, unless he himself would be so kind as to assist me: I added, that +if I must not discount my Bills, I desir’d Leave at least to go to +_Holland_, where I should find Relations or Friends who would serve me: +_Dadoncourt_ return’d me an Answer with all the Sauciness and Impertinence +of a Man of his Kidney: He sent to tell me, that he was neither a +Money-Changer, nor a Banker, to discount my Bills; that I could not stay +in the Citadel, because he had Orders to turn me out of it; and lastly, +that he would not suffer me to go to _Holland_, because he was by the same +Order injoin’d to send me to _Spain_: I thought this a blunt Sort of an +Answer; for, in short, as he knew who I was, he might, and even ought, to +have us’d me more politely; and even supposing that his Orders were as +urgent as he pretended, yet a Gentleman would have known better than to +notify them in that manner: I therefore saw myself under a Necessity of +travelling to _Spain_, with nothing but my Staff to support me; which +would certainly have been the Case, had it not been for Father _Thomas_, +who helped me to 40 Pistoles, upon Two thousand Livres worth of Bank +Bills; which Money I made use of to bear my Travelling-Expences: The +Luggage I had to carry was not very cumbersome; for I have had the Honour +to acquaint you, that _Dadoncourt_ had taken Care of that by selling off +what I had. My Journey to _Spain_ being reckon’d an Affair of the utmost +Importance, I had a Guard put upon me to conduct me to the Frontiers, +where they were so civil, as to shew me the Orders from Court, which were +executed with the utmost Strictness: They were contain’d in a Letter +directed to _Dadoncourt_ from _M. le Blanc_ the Secretary at War, in +Substance as follows: _His Royal Highness is willing, Sir, that you should +release the Baron_ de Pollnitz, _who is a Prisoner in the Citadel of_ +Bayonne, _on Condition that he depart the Kingdom; and for this Reason I +desire you to cause him to be conducted to the Frontier of_ Spain. + +My Guard took Leave of me on the Frontiers and I continued my Journey to +_Pampeluna_: By the Way I saw the famous _Pyrenean_ Mountains, the Passage +of which is very different from that of the _Alps_, there being not an Inn +to be met with but what looks much more like a Den of Thieves: The +Inhabitants of these Mountains have something mischievous in their very +Physiognomy, which makes Travellers afraid of ’em. I was forc’d to spend +one Night with my _Valet de Chambre_ in a Cabaret, where there being a +Score of these Fellows, we resolv’d to sit up all Night without going to +Bed; and I fancy, that in so doing, we acted very wisely, for those +Mountaineers look’d like a Parcel of Cut-throats: I set out as early as +possible in the Morning from this horrible Place for PAMPELUNA, where I +arriv’d towards the Evening: I alighted at an Inn, which was recommended +to me as the best in Town, but I found it every whit as bad as those that +I had met with in my Passage from _Bayonne_: The Bread, the Wine, their +Meat, Bedding and every thing was detestably bad: However, as I thought I +had a better Chance for my Life there, than in the Houses of Entertainment +among the Mountains; I made myself amends for sitting up all the last +Night, and slept soundly till next Day. + +I went and paid a Visit to the Prince of _Castillone_ Viceroy of +_Navarre_, who was prodigiously civil to me: I let him into the true +State of my Affairs, and what I had suffer’d from the King’s Lieutenant at +_Bayonne_: This Nobleman seem’d to be concern’d at my present Condition, +and was so kind as to make me an Offer of whatever I wanted; but as to the +Treatment I had met with from the King’s Lieutenant, it surpriz’d him not +at all: He told me too, that I was not the first Man who had been so +treated, and that he could not imagine how it happen’d, that the Regent +was not informed of all the Acts of Injustice committed at _Bayonne_: He +advis’d me to write to his Royal Highness, and to give him an exact +Account of all my Treatment: _If this_, said he, _does not procure you +some Amends, I am certain, at least, that ’twill get him a Reprimand_: I +did as _M. de Castillone_ advis’d me; I wrote both to the Regent and to +_M. le Blanc_, but ’twas all to no Purpose; for my Enemies had made such a +Devil of me to the Prince and the Minister, that not content with +returning me no Answer, they wrote to _M. de M----_, who had the Care of +the _French_ Affairs at _Madrid_, to thwart me in every thing he could: +And he, for his Part, punctually observ’d his Instructions, not so much in +pure Obedience to his Prince, as for the Pleasure he took in doing me +Mischief. + +_M. de Castillone_ was so good-natur’d as to shew me what was most +remarkable at _Pampeluna_: We took a Walk together without the Town, the +Situation of which I thought very fine: ’Tis encompass’d with Walls, and +fortify’d with Bastions and Half-Moons: Yet all this Fortification would +be of little Defence, were it not for the Citadel, which was repair’d, and +considerably augmented, during the Ministry of the Cardinal _Alberoni_. + +All the Road from _Pampeluna_ to _Madrid_ is quite disagreeable, there +being nothing to be seen but rusty Fields, here and there a ragged +Village; and what was still more vexatious, Houses of Entertainment, where +there was scarce any thing to be had: But ’tis much worse when we leave +_Navarre_, and enter _Castile_, there being nothing at all to be had in +their Public-Houses: You are accommodated with a Chamber indeed, and +that’s all; for if you want to eat any thing, you must send out your +Domestics to buy it, and dress it yourselves: But, however, the +Necessaries of Life may be easily had any where, and at a moderate Price: +I travell’d thro’ the whole Country without meeting with any Disaster, +which is not a little astonishing, Murders and Robberies being very common +in _Spain_. + + * * * * * + +I arriv’d on a _Sunday_-Night at ALCALA, a City in _New-Castile_, famous +for its University: This City is oblig’d for its Magnificence to the +Cardinal _Ximenes_, who, being Prime Minister under _Ferdinand_ of +_Arragon_, and _Isabel_ of _Castile_, spar’d no Cost to render this City +one of the most beautiful in _Spain_: The first thing that he did was to +build very fine Colleges; and when he became Regent of _Spain_, after the +Death of _Ferdinand_, he founded an University here. + + * * * * * + +’Tis but Seven Leagues from _Alcala_ to MADRID, but this Capital is not to +be seen till one comes just upon it, because it stands in a Bottom on the +River _Mancanares_: The Entrance into _Madrid_ has a feint Resemblance for +a little way, with the Entrance into _Rome_, thro’ the Gate _del Popoli_: +Three Streets, in the Shape of a Goose’s Foot, lead to the Centre of the +City: I went into that on the Right Hand, which carry’d me to the Square +of _St. Domingo_, where was a _French_ Inn, to which I had been +recommended: When I alighted out of my Chaise, I was heartily embrac’d by +a Man whom I had formerly seen in the Service of King _Stanislaus_ of +_Poland_, and afterwards at _Paris_, but he was oblig’d to fly from that +City, for Fear of falling into the Hands of Justice. + +This Man was accus’d of being One in Three who had robb’d and murder’d an +Abbe: Tho’ he was run away, the Trial took its Course, and he was +condemn’d in Outlawry to be broke alive on the Wheel, which Sentence was +executed accordingly in Effigie: After several Tours he came at last to +_Madrid_, where all that come from _France_ are receiv’d with open Arms: +He had chang’d his Name of _Le G----_ for that of the Baron _D----_. I +recollected him perfectly the very Moment that he embraced me, but his +Affair in _France_ was still so fresh in my Memory, that I did not think +fit to make a very affectionate Return for the Civilities of this new +Baron, but ask’d a great many Pardons that I could not call him to Mind: +The Man seem’d still very eager to be known to me, and said, _Pray, are +not you the Baron_ de Pollnitz? _Don’t you remember to have seen me at_ +Berlin, _then at_ Hanover, _&c._ I still pretended Ignorance; but my +Gentleman proceeded to rub up my Memory, and talk’d a great deal to me of +his Journey to _Paris_, and mention’d several Circumstances: Being at last +fatigued with all this long Detail, I thought it would oblige him to give +him some Glimpse that I knew him; and therefore mention’d the Names of +several People that we had been with together, to make him believe that I +was in Quest of his; and at length seeing him overjoy’d to think that I +was like to find out his Name by beating the Bush, I chose to give him +that Satisfaction, and said to him, tho’ with an Air of great Uncertainty, +_Pray, Sir, Was not your Name_Le G----? At the very Mention of this Name +my Friend chang’d Countenance, turn’d from red to pale, and retir’d at +last without giving me an Answer, or, at least, ’twas with such a low +Voice, that I could not understand a Syllable of what he said. For my own +Part, I thought of nothing but calling to my Landlord for a Room; and +after I had rested myself a little, I went down at Night to sup at my +Landlord’s Table, where some of the Company happen’d to be the very same +Officers that had seen me talking with _Le G----_. They ask’d me, if I was +acquainted with the Gentleman that accosted me, and what was his Name: I +made no Scruple to satisfy them, and not knowing that he had alter’d his +Name upon his leaving _France_, I said, without thinking any Harm, that +’twas _Le G----_, I had no sooner pronounc’d his Name, but one of the +Company cry’d out, _Ah! Morblieu! the very Man that assassinated the Abbe_ +V. _How durst such a Villain come hither to sollicit an Employment!_ I +plainly saw that I had committed an Oversight, in discovering a Name to +those Strangers, which had put the Person who bore it so much out of +Countenance; but I thought at the same time, that _Le G----_ had been +guilty of a much greater, in putting me under that Necessity: I +endeavour’d to set all to Rights again, by saying, that perhaps I was +mistaken, and that the Baron _D----_ was not _Le G----_: but they would +not admit of it; they all exaggerated the Baseness of the Murder that had +forc’d him to fly from _France_; and, in short, the Story was so toss’d +about in an Instant, that the pretended Baron was oblig’d to leave +_Madrid_: I have been told since, that he retir’d to _Portugal_, where +Fortune has been pretty Favourable to him. + +I had not been long at _Madrid_ before I met with several of my +Acquaintance: The very Day after my Arrival I receiv’d Visits from above a +Score of Officers, _French_ and _Germans_, whom I had seen at several +Courts: At my Quarters I also found the Baron _de Montbel_, who had taken +so much fruitless Pains to inquire after my Health when I was a Prisoner +in the Citadel of _Bayonne_: To be short, in a very little time, I found +as many, and even more Acquaintance than I wanted, especially at my first +coming to _Madrid_, where I did not aim at keeping any Company more than +was necessary to my obtaining an Employment: I thought immediately how I +should be introduc’d to the King and Queen: The Person who procur’d me +Audience from his Majesty was one _la Roche_, a _Frenchman_ by Birth, who +was the King’s chief _Valet de Chambre_, Secretary of his Dispatches, and +likewise Introducer of Ambassadors. + +’Twas in a private Audience that I had the Honour of waiting on his +Majesty: This is different from a public Audience, in that the latter, +which is generally for common People, is granted with the Doors open, and +in Presence of the Grandees, who are standing on both Sides of the Hall, +and cover’d: The King is then seated in a Chair of State, plac’d under a +Canopy: From the Entrance of the Audience Room to the King’s Chair Three +Genuflections are made; and when the Persons, who are honour’d with the +Audience, are advanc’d near his Majesty’s Person, they deliver what they +have to say upon their Knees: _Philip_ V. never makes any other Answer, +than _I will see, I will consider it_. After such Audience is ended, the +Person who officiates as Master of the Ceremonies gives Notice with an +audible Voice, when there is to be a private Audience. The Grandees then +retire, and the Doors are shut, and I had my Audience in the manner +following: I found the King alone in his Chamber, made my Three Obeisances +to him, and when I came near to him fell on my Knees: I then said to him, +that having heard his Majesty’s Piety and his Zeal for the Catholic +Religion highly extoll’d in all Places where-ever I had been; I thought I +could not do better than to come and prostrate myself at his Feet, and to +offer him my most humble Service; that I had incurr’d the Displeasure of +my Sovereign, and lost all Expectation of ever being able to serve with +Satisfaction in my own Country, because I had embrac’d the _Romish_ +Religion, whereof I shew’d his Majesty a Testimonial, sign’d by the +Cardinal _de Noailles_: I also shew’d him a Letter from the King of +_Prussia_, with the Grant of the first Pension annex’d to the Office of +Gentleman of the Bedchamber, which I had still no doubt enjoy’d, had I not +alter’d my Religion: The King took the King of _Prussia_’s Letter, and the +Testimonial of the Cardinal _de Noailles_, look’d upon both of them, and +return’d them to me, saying, _I will consider your Request, and will soon +dispatch you_: I then presented a Memorial to him, which he put in his +Pocket, after which I arose, and went backwards out of the Chamber, +repeating my Three Obeisances. + +From the King’s Audience I went to that of the Queen, to which I was +introduc’d by her chief _Major-Domo_: This Princess was dress’d in the +_Amazons_ Habit, because she was going a Hunting with the King; her first +Lady of Honour and some of the Ladies of the Bedchamber were present: I +also saw in the Door-way between the Chamber of Audience and the Queen’s +own Chamber the Prince of _Asturias_, who dy’d King of _Spain_ in 1724, +the _Infantes_ his Brothers, and the _Infanta Maria-Anna Victoria_. I +deliver’d myself to the Queen in very near the same Words as I had just +before to the King, and she return’d me a gracious Answer, that _She +should be always glad to serve me as far as lay in her Power_: I withdrew, +hugely delighted with so obliging an Answer. + +This, _Madame_, was my first setting out at the Court of _Spain_: It was +natural, in the first Place, to look after the Main-Chance; for, as I have +had the Honour to acquaint you, I had but little Cash; and what was worse +Luck than all, no Effects, from which I could hope to raise any, so that +if I had thrown myself ever so little into Company, I should have run the +Risque of being soon a Beggar: The obliging manner in which the King and +Queen had been pleas’d to receive me, was a reviving Cordial to my +drooping Spirits: I began to entertain fresh Hopes, and thinking myself +already in some Share of Favour, I went abroad among my Acquaintance, I +found old Friends, and made new ones, and I had good Success at Play, +which I thought a happy Omen, and enabled me to frequent the Court with +that Ease and Freedom, which Persons seldom discover whose Finances are +out of Order. + +I am now to give you a short Account of the Court, and of those who made +the greatest Figure at it; I need not treat of the King, all Mankind +knows, and the late Wars sufficiently prov’d, that _Lewis_, Dauphin of +_France_, Son to _Lewis_ XIV. was his Father: He marry’d to his first Wife +_Maria-Louisa Galeriela_ of _Savoy_, who dy’d at _Madrid_ the 14th of +_February_, 1714, and whose Memory is still dear to the _Spaniards_; they +greatly miss the _Savoyard_, as they call this Princess; The King of +_Spain_ had several Children by her; the Eldest was _Don Lewis_, Prince of +_Asturias_, afterwards King of _Spain_, by the Resignation of the King his +Father in 1724, but this young Prince dy’d the same Year: The Name of the +second was _Don Philip_, who was born at _Madrid_ in 1712, and dy’d in +1721; and the third _Don Ferdinand_, now Prince of _Asturias_. + +After the Death of that Princess the King marry’d _Elizabeth Farnese_, +Niece and Daughter-in-Law to the Duke of _Parma_: By this Princess the +King has also had several Princes and Princesses: The Eldest Prince is +_Don Carlos_, and was destin’d by the Quadruple Alliance to the Succession +of _Tuscany_ and the Duchies of _Parma_ and _Placentia_: The second is +_Don Philip_, who was born the 15th of _March_, 1720. + +The Queen is tall and handsome, well-shap’d, but slender, and much pitted +with the Small-Pox. She has a vast and enterprizing Genius, which no +Difficulties can terrify. She made it very plain as soon as she set her +Foot on _Spanish_ Ground, that she would not suffer herself to be led by +the Nose: For before she had even seen the Face of the King, she banish’d +the Princess of _Ursins_, both from the Court and Kingdom, because of the +Ascendant she knew that Princess had over the King. She thought also of +removing the _French_ from about him, and endeavour’d to put his Majesty +out of Conceit with his own Countrymen. The _Spaniards_ were at first well +enough pleas’d with all these Alterations, and hop’d that at length one of +their own Nation would be singled out for Prime Minister; but they had the +Mortification to see themselves govern’d by a Foreigner. The Abbot +(afterwards Cardinal) _Alberoni_, by Birth a _Parmesan_, was advanc’d to +the chief Dignities both in Church and State, and govern’d _Spain_ with +such seeming Success, as made the Subjects entertain great Hopes of him. +He gave the Queen a Glimpse of mighty Fortune that was to befal her Son: +But a more refin’d Set of Politics knock’d all those vain Projects on the +Head; and the Queen was so prejudic’d against him, that she was the first +who persuaded the King to remove the Cardinal; which happen’d in the +Manner that I have already had the Honour to acquaint you. The Credit of +the Queen herself, however, suffer’d some Shock by this Alteration; for +the King was for a while undetermin’d what Measures to take, but at length +he replac’d all his Confidence in the Queen, and ’tis she that still +governs, tho’, indeed, she is supported by Ministers who have great +Talents for Government. + +The Person who had the Charge of Foreign Affairs when I arriv’d at +_Madrid_, was the Marquis _Grimaldo_, who had the Reputation of a Man of +the strictest Honour and Probity. I had the Favour to see him more than +once, and he always receiv’d me with very great Civility. I have been +told, that he thorowly knows the King’s good Pleasure with regard to such +private Men as make their Court to him; and that when he tells a Person +the King has a Respect for him, he need not despair of carrying any Point. +Nevertheless, I question whether such a Compliment could be safely +depended on; for, I observ’d, he paid it to a great many People: And, as +for my own Part, _M. Grimaldo_ said to me, that the King was so gracious +as to esteem me, before I had even the Honour of paying my Duty to his +Majesty. + +_M. de Campo Florido_ had the Management of the Finances. He was a very +polite disinterested Minister; and ’tis certain that he made none of those +Purchases which are always the Consequence of a splendid Fortune. But +notwithstanding his being so disinterested, this Minister had the same +Fate as all that have the Management of the Finances, not to be belov’d: +And tho’ when he first came to the Direction of the Finances, he found +them in a very bad State, no Allowance was made him upon that Score, but +an Account was demanded from him of the Wealth which others had +squander’d. + +_M. de Castelar_ was Secretary at War, and had been just preferr’d to that +Employment as I arriv’d at _Madrid_. He is the civillest Minister I ever +knew: And tho’ he had such a Weight of Affairs upon him, he had an easy +Air, which was a Pleasure to all that had any Business with him. He had +another Quality, not very common to Gentlemen in the Ministry, which was +to keep no body in Suspence; for People very soon knew what they had to +trust to: And whether ’twas a Grant or a Refusal, they were equally +satisfy’d with the Minister, who gave with Pleasure, and never refus’d a +Request but when ’twas not in his Power to grant it. + +These, _Madame_, were the Ministers then employ’d in the several Offices. +At that time there was no Prime Minister in _Spain_; for, after Cardinal +_Alberoni_’s Disgrace, the King manag’d Affairs himself, or rather the +Queen govern’d as the real Sovereign. But as great as her Sway was, she +had much ado to get the better of the King’s Confessor, who had a great +Share in all Affairs. This was the famous Father _Daubanton_, a Jesuit, +who had an Ascendant over the King to such a Degree, that nothing of +Moment was transacted without his Opinion. He was therefore, in Reality, +the Prime Minister of _Spain_; at least he only wanted the Title, for he +perform’d the Functions of such a one, but without the Wit, the Finesse, +and the Policy of the disgrac’d Minister; for he was severe, merciless, +and so hard-hearted, that when he saw Officers reduc’d to the last +Extremity for want of their Pay, it gave him no Disturbance. To him I +apply’d, as every body else did, to beg the Honour of his Protection; and +when I came near him, I found him a haughty proud Man, and one that was +extremely rigid. ’Tis true, that when he had to do with Persons from whom +he expected any Services, all this Stateliness was laid aside; he was then +quite another Man: And was so perfect a Matter of the Art of dissembling, +that Civility, Good-nature, and Humility seem’d painted so strongly in his +Features, as would induce one to think nothing could be more sincere, and +that this external Appearance was the pure Expression of his secret +Thoughts. The _Roman_ Purple was, they say, the Centre of all his Views; +and, being wholly ambitious of this Dignity, he thought every Measure +equally right that had a Tendency to a red Hat. Cardinal _Alberoni_ +wheedled him with the Hopes of it one while, just to get some Services of +him that he then stood in need of. The Regent of _France_ also gave him a +Prospect of it, as a Reward that he might infallibly depend on, if he +could prevail on his Catholic Majesty to sign the Treaty of the Quadruple +Alliance. This Jesuit set heartily about it, and succeeded; but the Hat, +so much aspir’d after, was given to another; and all the Thanks that the +Reverend Father had for his Pains, was an Abbey for one pf his Nephews. +Something offer’d before I left _Spain_, which will give me occasion to +speak to you of this Cardinal again. + +Cardinal _Borgia_ was also in very high Favour, but a wrong Person to +apply to for Services; which indeed was owing to his Indolence more than +any other Reason; for, as to a friendly Temper, I do not think there ever +was a Man who possess’d that Virtue in a more eminent Degree. He was +withal very devout, but was reckon’d so unlearned, that I have been +assur’d he did not know a word of _Latin_; and upon this Head I heard the +following Story, which I do not retail to you for Gospel. I was told, that +when the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, was preparing +to make this Cardinal a Visit, he was appris’d that his Eminency did not +understand _French_. The Ambassador thought it would do every whit as well +if he convers’d with him in _Latin_, and therefore he greeted him in that +Language; but he found, to his great Surprize, that the Prelate made +Answer to him in _Spanish_, that he did not understand the _French_ +Tongue; and somebody, who was present at the Audience, telling the +Cardinal, that the Ambassador spoke to him not in _French_ but in +_Latin_, the Cardinal said, _Aye, but I do not understand Latin-French_: +So that there was a Necessity of carrying on the Conversation by an +Interpreter. + +Tho’ the Characters of the Ministers and Favourites were so different, +there was a Necessity of my conforming to them all, in Hopes that the +Steps I had taken would not be in vain. I took great Care therefore to see +them all, to desire them to speak in my Favour. Whether they did so, I +know not; nor whether the little Ray of Fortune which began to shine upon +me, but soon vanish’d, was the Effect of their Recommendations, or to an +Impression I had made upon the King’s Heart, by the Narrative I had given +him of the State of my Affairs, the Disorder of which had been owing in +the first Place to my changing my Religion, which had forc’d me to quit +the Service of my Sovereign. Be this as it will, I received a very +favourable Answer to the Memorial which I had the Honour of presenting to +the King: He granted me a Lieutenant-Colonel’s Commission in the future +Regiment of _Sicily_, together with the _Soldo vivo_, which amounted to +about Sixteen Pistoles a Month. What they call the _Soldo vivo_ in _Spain_ +is, when the same Pay is advanc’d as if the Corps was actually on an +Establishment or Footing. I thought this very handsome Pay, and that my +Affairs were already in a promising way. I found that with such a Sum an +Officer might maintain himself very well in his Quarters. I actually +form’d Schemes for a Settlement; and, having paid dear for my Folly, I +began to talk of House-keeping. I computed, that with what would now be my +Income from _Spain_, and what was to revert to me from my own Family, I +should be able to repair my tatter’d Equipage, and to appear in a decent +Manner, till such time as Fortune, which now began to be something kinder +than usual, had put me in a Condition to make the Figure I aspir’d to. + +As soon as the King had admitted me into his Service, I did not fail to +wait on him with my most humble Acknowledgments: I had also the Honour of +thanking the Queen, to whom I made my Compliment in _High-Dutch_, and that +Princess return’d me her Answer in the same Language. Soon after this I +set out for _Arragon_, where the Regiment in which I was to serve was then +in Quarters. But as I came into _Spain_ with very little Money, I was soon +oblig’d to return to _Madrid_, to desire some small Gratuity, till I +receiv’d my Pay. Some of my Friends advis’d me to ask boldly for a +handsome round Sum, or for a Pension upon Benefices; because if I depended +on my Pay for Subsistance, I should be very much out in my Reckoning; that +in _Spain_, more than elsewhere, they were backward in their Pay, and +always one Year in Arrear, and sometimes two or three, according as they +dun the Minister, or dawb the Treasurer’s Fist. This News put me a little +out of Temper, and from that time I began to perceive that Fortune would +jilt me as much in _Spain_ as she had done elsewhere: Nevertheless, my +Courage did not quite fail me, I apply’d to the Secretary at War, who +referred me to Father _Daubanton_, and the latter told me, with all the +Solemnity that could be, that ’twas none of his Business. You see, +_Madame_, that this was a fine Setting out: However, I was not +dishearten’d: And being so much us’d as I was to Rebuffs, I had as lieve +be deny’d twice as once. I rapp’d at various Doors, but they were all +either shut against me, or, if open’d, ’twas to no Purpose. I resolv’d to +address myself immediately to the King, and had the Honour of presenting a +Petition to him, in which I gave him an Account of my present Situation: +1st, By the Disaster of the Bank Bills; and, 2dly, by the strange +Procedure of the King’s Lieutenant at _Bayonne_. The King, when he took my +Petition, answer’d, _I will consider it._ It must be observ’d, that the +King was then at _Aranjuez_, for which Reason there was no Minister with +him but _M. de Grimaldo_. This was the Minister to whom the other +Secretaries of War and the Finances, and the President of the Council of +_Castile_, were oblig’d to address their Dispatches, which was some +Hindrance to Business; but, in short, such is the Practice of the +_Spanish_ Court. For the Councils only attend the King at _Buen Retiro_, +and this because ’tis in _Madrid_ itself; for as soon as the King goes +from his Capital City, all Affairs pass thro’ the Hands of a single +Minister. + +I waited therefore upon _M. de Grimaldo_, to know the Result of my +Petition. This Minister, according to his laudable Custom, told me, that +the King had a very great Esteem for me: This thread-bare Answer was very +little Comfort to me; and even tho’ it were true that his Majesty honour’d +me with his Esteem, I saw plainly that mine was a Situation in which the +Esteem of Princes is mere Whip-Cream, if it be not accompany’d with +something solid. I earnestly press’d _M. de Grimaldo_ that he would be so +kind as to procure me something else besides Esteem. At last, after +several Goings backward and forward, the Minister said to me one Day, +with a Smile, that my Affairs went on swimmingly: I immediately thought my +Business done, and wanted nothing but to know the Value of the Gratuity or +Pension that was granted to me: But there was nothing in it; the good Turn +that my Affairs had taken, was only to be referr’d back again to Father +_Daubanton_. I waited, therefore, on the Reverend Father, and, with all +possible Respect, ask’d him, what was the Effect of a Petition that had +been referr’d to him? And to this humble Request I added another, still +more humble, which was to obtain the Honour of his Protection: But my +Compliment and my Respects were not very welcome, and he answer’d me, very +short: _Do you imagine, Sir, that I have nothing else to do, but to think +of your Petition: I have not yet seen it, Sir, nor do I know whether it +has ever been sent to me._ I reply’d, but still with the profoundest +Respect, that _M. de Grimaldo_ had told me that----_Alas!_ said he, +interrupting me, _M. de Grimaldo! M. de Grimaldo!_ And the Words were no +sooner out of his Mouth, but he whipp’d into his Closet, and slapp’d the +Door in my Face. I saw plainly that the Wind did not sit right for his +Reverence, and therefore lay by till next Day: Then I made up to him again +much about the Time that I knew he us’d to go to the King, and planted +myself in a Nook of his Entry, in the humble Posture of a Supplicant: The +Jesuit, his Companion, seeing me there, desir’d me to walk into the +Antichamber; but I could not be prevail’d on to accept of an Honour which +I said did not belong to me; tho’ the Truth was, that I chose to stay in +the Entry, as the surest Place of speaking with the Confessor; for I had +observ’d, that the Reverend Father often put the Bite upon People that +waited for him in the Antichamber, by stealing out at a private Door that +open’d into the Entry where I then was. I stay’d there a full Hour, when, +as I had before imagin’d, I saw my Gentleman slipping out at the private +Door: I accosted him in the Passage, and humbly put him in Mind, that I +had the Honour of speaking to him the Day before: I found him in a little +better Humour than he was then, for he promis’d me that he would speak to +the King, and bid me attend him for the Answer next Day. You will imagine +that I did not fail to be there: He told me then, that he had not an +Opportunity as yet of speaking to the King about my Affair, but that he +would infallibly mention it to him in a few Days: Mean time these Days +amounted insensibly to Weeks, and the Weeks to Months, which had like to +have put me out of all manner of Patience. I could not be reproach’d with +Want of Solicitation, for certainly there was not a Morning but I took my +Walk in the Confessor’s Antichamber, where he saw me sure enough, and +would sometimes honour me with a Nod, and at other times with a Frown: +And, in fine, after having so often danc’d Attendance, all I could obtain +was a formal Denial. + +I own to you, _Madame_, I was a little stunn’d by this Shock: For I had +neither Money nor Credit, and knew not who I could ask to lend me a Sum, +till I receiv’d a Quarter’s Wages: Besides, how could I depend upon such +Pay as was put off from one Year to another? In this sad Situation I was +so fortunate as to make an Acquaintance with Mr. _Stanhope_, by the means +of one _Holtzendorff_, that Minister’s Secretary, who was a Native of +_Berlin_, and has a Brother a _Valet de Chambre_ to the King of +_Prussia_. He was glad to shew me his Acknowledgment of some Services my +Relations had done him, by bringing me acquainted with his Master. Mr. +_Stanhope_ was wonderfully kind to me, and even interceded in my Favour +with the Confessor, and with _M. Scotti_, the Minister of _Parma_, who +could do any thing with the Queen; but Mr. _Stanhope_ had no better +Success than I had: However, he did me all the Services in his Power, +press’d me to accept of his Table, offer’d me also his Equipage, and +advanc’d me some Money: In a Word, he treated me as the best Friend I had +could have done; and I may say, that I have substantial Obligations to +that Gentleman, because, if it had not been for him, _all my Days_ in +Spain _would have been Sorrows, and my Travel Grief_[28]. + +While I lost so much Time in solliciting Father _Daubanton_, I did not +omit to take Notice of what was remarkable, not only at _Madrid_ but the +Royal Palaces, to which the Court remov’d from time to time. _Madrid_ is, +properly speaking, the Capital City of all _Spain_, and the common +Residence of its Kings, who have a large Palace there, the chief Front of +which was built by the Emperor _Charles_ V. The Inside has been alter’d +for the better, and much embellish’d by _Philip_ V. The Castle is at the +End of a large Court which forms a long Square: The Two Sides of this +Court are lin’d with low Buildings, Part whereof serves as a Guard-house +for the _Spanish_ and _Walloon_ Guards, who range themselves in Two Rows +in this Court, when the King or any of the Royal Family passes thro’ it. +At the Entrance of this Court there are Three grand Portico’s. The Front +of the Palace on the Court-side consists of a main Pile of Building, in +the Centre between Two very narrow Pavilions; and at the Entrance of each +is a great Gate: The middlemost, which is the principal, is very darksome, +and leads into a very spacious Area, arch’d over, where several Coaches +may turn at one and the same time: This separates Two Square Courts of the +same Size and Structure, encompass’d with a Range of Free-Stone Pillars, +that form a Piazza which runs all round it. In the Court, which is on the +Right Hand, is the Stair-Case, which leads up to the Apartments of the +King and Queen; and in the other are the Offices of the Ministers. + +The King’s Apartment consists in the first Place of a Guard-Room, which is +neither spacious nor lightsome: On the Left Side of this Room is a very +long Row of Chambers, very narrow and low, without a Ceiling, or any other +Ornaments, but very rich Tapistry: At the End of this Row there are Three +Apartments, built by Order of the Princess of _Ursins_: The first of these +is a large Saloon, very high and well proportion’d, inlaid and +wainscotted, and in the Compartments are to be seen the Pictures of +several Kings, Queens and Princes of _Spain_, painted by the ablest +Masters: The second Piece is an Octogon, contriv’d in that Form for the +Sake of Four little Offices in the Angles of the Square: From this +Apartment is a Passage to the King’s Chamber, which is very large, and +intirely furnish’d with crimson Damask, adorn’d with Gold Lace and Fringe, +tho’ the Tapistry can scarce be seen, ’tis so much hid by excellent +Pictures and noble Pier-Glasses. + +The Queen’s Apartment is not so large, nor near so fine as the King’s: Her +Majesty has a Guard-Room separate from the King’s: Their Majesties may +walk on the same Floor to the Chapel, which is not very large, but richly +adorn’d: The Gallery is no higher than the Pavement of the Chapel, which +is of very fine Marble: The Windows of the Chapel are all of Glass: None +but the _Infantes_ fit in the Gallery, and the Grandees of _Spain_ are +seated upon Forms, that are plac’d on each Side from the Gallery to the +Altar: I am apt to think, that the Cardinals are allow’d a Great Chair and +a Reading Desk in the Chapel, even tho’ his Majesty be present: At least, +I saw, that the Cardinal _Borgia_ had that Privilege. + +In this Palace the King us’d to pass the Winter till Mid-Lent, and then +his Majesty went to the Palace of _Retiro_, which stands near the Gate of +_Alcala_: ’Tis a vast large Building, but without Ornament or +Architecture, and looks more like a Convent than a Royal House: The Inside +too is perfectly answerable to the Outside: The Rooms are very small, the +Tapistries and Paintings very rich, but the _Spaniards_ are so negligent, +that they suffer the Rats to gnaw the fine Hangings, and take no Care to +repair them: There are noble Pictures also in another Room of this same +Palace, which represent the principal Actions of the Duke of _Feria_, +several of which Pictures, more is the Pity, have been cut into Quarters +to enlarge the Entry of the Room. + +The Gardens of this Palace are inconsiderable. _Philip_ V. it seems +intended once to have embellish’d them, and had actually caus’d the Works +for it to be begun, but the same have since been discontinued: There’s +nothing in them remarkable besides a Statue of Brass, which is plac’d in +the middle of a little Flower-Garden wall’d in: ’Tis a Statue of _Philip_ +II. on Horseback, and one of the boldest Pieces of Sculpture in _Europe_: +The Horse is represented curvetting with his whole Body, resting upon only +one of his Haunches: The rest of the Gardens is nothing but a great +Inclosure with irregular Walks: I saw a very fine Piece of Water there: +The King’s Mall is worth seeing, as is also the Menagery, which is full of +very uncommon Animals. + +The King and the Queen, whether they are at _Madrid_ or at _Retiro_, +always live in the same manner: They were not the most early Risers, and +when the Levee was notify’d, their Majesties did not rise for all that +immediately; but the King first had a Couple of new-laid Eggs, and then +some Chocolate for his Breakfast: The Queen only drank some Chocolate: +After this their Majesties sent for the Marquis _de Grimaldo_, with whom +they talk’d about Business, after which they arose: Then Father +_Daubanton_ came in, and stay’d with the King a full Hour: His Majesty +went afterwards to Mass, and when Chapel was over, the King gave Audience +to his Subjects, or else went to the Council of _Castile_: Sometimes he +employ’d himself in his Closet till Dinner, when he sat down quite in +private, with none but the Queen: After Dinner their Majesties went out +together a Hunting, and return’d somewhat late: As soon as they were come +back, they were serv’d with a Collation, which consisted of cold +Partridge, of the like to which Collations _M. de Grimaldo_ was admitted: +When these were ended, the King gave Audience in his Closet to the Foreign +Ministers, or other Persons of Distinction: During these Audiences the +King was commonly standing and bare-headed, and the Queen was all the +while behind a Screen, near enough for her to hear every Word that was +said: After these Audiences, when the King had a Mind to do Business, he +sent for the Marquis _de Castelar_ or _Campoflorido_, who stay’d but Half +an Hour with him at most. Then his Majesty spent the rest of the Evening +with the Infants, the Ladies of the Bedchamber and their Associates; and +sometimes there was Play till Supper was ready, at which _M. de Scotti_, +the Minister of _Parma_, and a very great Favourite, was generally +present, to converse with their Majesties: As soon as they arose from +Table they went to Bed. + +The Pleasures of the Court when in the Country, were little, if any thing, +more gay than those at _Madrid_: I saw the Court more than once at +_Aranjuez_, where I took Notice, that they spent their Afternoons either +in Hunting or taking the Air in the Gardens of the Palace: In these +Airings their Majesties shot Crows with small Hand-Guns, which would kill +at a good Distance: The Queen generally hit her Mark better than the King. +While their Majesties hunted on one Side of the Castle, the Prince of +_Asturias_, accompany’d by the _Infante_ his Brother and his Governors, +hunted on the other Side, and did not return till Night. + +The King spent the _Easter_-Holidays while I was here at the Palace of +_Retiro_: This gave me an Opportunity of seeing the Processions of the +Holy Week, which were made upon every _Good-Friday_, to the Palace of +_Retiro_, where the King and the Queen, the Prince of _Asturias_ and the +Infants saw them pass: I will frankly confess to you, that I never saw +any thing so pitiful, not to say scandalous, as this sort of Processions: +It seem’d as if they had been resolv’d to turn the most sacred thing in +the World into Ridicule: The Subject of the Procession was no less than +the Sufferings and Death of our Saviour; but the whole was represented in +so burlesque a manner, that really I am surpriz’d, why a Court of +Inquisition, which very often sentences People to be burnt for imaginary +Crimes, does not severely punish those that are Partakers at such +Festivals: In the Procession which I saw, our Saviour was represented as +big as the Life in various Attitudes: In one Part of it he was exhibited +on Mount _Calvary_, clad in a Night-Gown of purple Taffeta, praying to his +Father to remove the Cup from him, which was reach’d forth to him by a +little Angel, that was fasten’d only by a Wire, that it might look as if +it hover’d in the Air: Afterwards other Persons came with the Image of our +Saviour bound to a Cross, and as big as the Life, having on his Head not a +Crown of Thorns, but a long natural Perriwig well powder’d, and adorn’d +with a Knot of colour’d Ribbons: In short, every Circumstance of the +Suffering and Death of Jesus Christ was represented to the Life, and in +such Postures as were more comical some than others: Every Image was +guarded by 4, 6, or 8 Men, arm’d _cap-a-pie_, and bearing Halberds in +their Hands: Between every Image march’d the Clergy, and the several +Orders of Friars: At the Head of the Procession there walk’d Men who were +cover’d all over with black Cloth, so that ’twas not possible to see so +much as their Faces, there being only a little Hole made in the Garment +for them to see and breathe thro’, tho’ they also made Use of it to blow +a sort of Horns, very much like those of Sow-Gelders. They had Hats upon +their Heads, with high Crowns like Sugar-Loaves: This sable Company was +follow’d by other Men, and by little Boys, stark naked from the Head to +the Waist, whose Bodies were twin’d about with Straw-Bands, and their Arms +tied to a Piece of Wood, which oblig’d them to hold them extended, as if +they had been fasten’d to a Cross: There was also a Company of Flagellant +Friars, but they did not presume to come in Sight of the King, and +therefore they stay’d and join’d in the Procession, as it came back from +_Buen Retiro_. + +There were Processions also in the same Taste during the _Easter_ Week, +when the Holy Sacrament was carry’d to the Sick: The Streets and Balconies +were on this Occasion hung with Tapistry: The Sacrament, which was carry’d +under a Canopy, was preceded by a great Number of Priests and Friars, who +had all Wax-Tapers in their Hands: There was also a numerous Symphony, and +a great many Dancers, in Masks of several Sorts, leaping and playing +Gambols with Castanets snapping in their Hands: And in this manner they +danc’d before the Holy Sacrament, and continued it even in the Church, +till such time as the Benediction was pronounc’d. + +I speak to you of these Ceremonies, _Madame_, as one that saw them with my +own Eyes: I had a Description given to me of them before, which was pretty +much like it, but I took all that had been told me as pure Calumny, +invented to run down the Worship which the Church of _Rome_ pays to the +greatest of our Mysteries; the rather, because they, that had given me the +Account of it, were _Calvinists_: I was willing to be an Eye-Witness +myself of every thing which I had been assur’d was observ’d in the +Ceremonial of the _Spanish_ Church: For this Reason I attended all these +Processions with the greatest Eagerness that could be, and was really +scandaliz’d to see that verify’d which I had only imagin’d to be the +Inventions of the Enemies of the Church of _Rome_. + +’Tis such unpleasant Walking in the Streets of _Madrid_, that I question +whether that might not make me the more out of Temper with those +Superstitions: For this, tho’ a very fine City, and adorn’d with Squares, +in which there are noble Fountains, and tho’ it has Streets moreover which +are very spacious, strait and lightsome, ’tis nevertheless so very nasty, +that there are few Towns like it, which are ever so little govern’d: From +all the Houses they throw out a great deal of Ordure, which, they pretend, +wastes away in one Night’s Time, the Air of _Madrid_ is so corrosive: Yet +I experienc’d the contrary, and was terribly annoy’d with the Stench of +it: But for all this, the daily Nuisance of the Streets of _Madrid_ is +nothing in comparison of what one is forc’d to suffer upon the Days of +Solemnity; for on such Days the Streets are generally clean’d, and then +all the Soil being put in Motion, ’tis hardly possible to bear it, +especially in a dry Season, when the whole being reduc’d into fine Dust, +the very Air we breathe is tainted with it, and it penetrates every thing +that one eats: I heard an _Italian_ Physician say, he was sure that ’twas +scarce possible for a Foreigner, be he ever so circumspect and retir’d, to +spend Three or Four Years at _Madrid_ without being attack’d with a +Distemper which we look upon with Horror; but the _Spaniards_ are not at +all frighten’d at it, for they say, that in many Families ’tis hereditary. +The Doctor said, that every thing they breath’d, eat or drank, was +poison’d by the Nastiness of _Madrid_. + +What can be the Reason why the People are so very slovenly I can’t +imagine, for there are considerable Sums distributed every Year to keep +the Streets clean: Perhaps it may be only owing to the Sloth of the +_Spaniards_, for I don’t know a Nation upon Earth that is so much in Love +with Idleness; and I am certain, that if they inhabited a Soil not so +fruitful as their’s is, they would soon die with Hunger: In the Winter +they delight to spend their Time in basking in the Sun: In the Summer they +sleep all Day long, or else drink Ice-Waters, and they reserve their Walks +for the Night: The Country-People, who in all other Parts are so inur’d to +Labour, are as idle in _Spain_ as the Town’s-People: They can hardly be +said to till the Ground, for they only scrape away the Surface of it, and +then scatter their Seed: Yet ’tis surprizing, that every thing comes up +here as well as in a Country that is better cultivated. + +The _Spaniards_ being too indolent for Exercises that require any Labour, +delight most of all in Walking, and in frequenting the Play-house, where +they are sure of meeting with what is most diverting at _Madrid_: Yet I +can assure you, there is nothing so lamentable as the _Spanish_ +Representations, and the Place where they are exhibited is horrible: ’Tis +very dark, and over the Benches which are plac’d in Form of an +Amphitheatre, are the Boxes for the Ladies, who look thro’ Grates. The +Theatre is made after the manner of _Rome_, being a Row of Portico’s, that +are screen’d by Curtains, thro’ which the Comedians enter upon the Stage: +The whole is very indifferently lighted; but that which disgusted me more +than any thing, was a Common-Sewer, of which I was sensible as soon as I +enter’d the House, but could not presently discover where it was for Want +of Light: It runs precisely under the middle of the Pit, and the Stench of +it is intolerable. The Actors are very ill dress’d, and for the Generality +very ill favour’d, or ill shap’d: The Actresses are more tolerable, but +not much: The Plays are hardly better than those who perform them; yet the +_Spaniards_ say, they are excellent Pieces. What most of all diverted me +was their Dances between the Acts, than which it would be difficult to +meet with any thing more ridiculous: Most of their Theatrical Performances +are sacred Pieces, in which even the Mysteries of our Religion bear a +Part: A Friend of mine actually assured me, that he saw the Holy Sacrament +administer’d at it to a pretended sick Person, which, if true, I can’t +imagine how the Inquisition, that is so severe in other respects, can +tolerate such Abuses. + +Now I am speaking of the Inquisition, I was an Eye-Witness of the Severity +of this Tribunal while I was in _Spain_: For not many Days after my +Arrival at _Madrid_, I saw several Persons burnt who were convicted of +Judaism: Among those poor unhappy Sufferers was a young Woman of about 18 +or 20 Years of Age, the beautifullest that I saw in _Spain_: She went to +her Execution with Joy imprinted on her Countenance, and dy’d with the +Courage for which our Martyrs are so celebrated: Some time after this +Execution the Inquisition made a great Search all over _Spain_: Above 40 +Persons were taken up in one Night at _Madrid_, and among the rest one +_Peralte_, a famous Physician, who seem’d to have been fated by his Star +to die by the Inquisition: His Mother, who was their Prisoner when she +was deliver’d of him, was burnt soon after her Lying-in: Young _Peralte_ +was brought up in the Catholic Religion, but at 30 Years of Age he was +accus’d, and convicted of Judaism: His Punishment for this time was only +Three Years Imprisonment, but at length he was apprehended a second time, +and after I left _Madrid_, I heard the poor Wretch was burnt there; in +which the Prayers of his Mother were answer’d, for I was assur’d, that +when this Woman mounted her Funeral Pile, she pray’d that her Son might +one Day or other die the same Death: I was very glad that I was not at +_Madrid_ at the time of this _Peralte_’s Execution, for I had some +Knowledge of him, and tho’ he was really a Bigot to Judaism, I thought him +one of the civillest Men in the World. + +I did not set out from _Madrid_ to join my Regiment, but went a quite +different Way, in order to touch some Money which I did not know how to +come at in _Spain_: And that I did not, was surely no Fault of mine, for I +don’t believe that ever any Courtier haunted Levees with so much Assiduity +as I did, not only those of the King and Queen, but even the Father +Confessor’s Levee, whose Protection alone would have done my Business, if +he would but have honour’d me with it: I was therefore every Day either in +the King’s Antichamber, or in the Reverend Father’s, if not in both; and I +follow’d the Court to all the Pleasure-houses about _Madrid_: I saw the +Escurial, a stately Building, which _Philip_ II. caus’d to be erected in +Memory of the Victory he gain’d over the _French_ near _St. Quentin_: ’Tis +impossible to see a finer Structure than this is. _Philip_ II. intended at +first to build only a Church and a Convent here, but afterwards he +thought of having a Mansion here for himself, which is a perfect one of +the kind: The Escurial is the Place where the Kings of _Spain_ are bury’d: +The Vault in which their Bodies are deposited is a Master-piece of +Architecture; every Place here shines with Gold and precious Stones. + +_Philip_ V. was at this time building a Palace, now call’d _St. +Ildephonso_, the Plan of which I thought was magnificent: The Situation of +it was very advantageous, and it was to be furnish’d with noble Gardens. + +The Pleasure-house which I most frequented while I was in _Spain_ is +_Aranjuez_, situate Seven Leagues from _Madrid_, on the Banks of the +_Tagus_, which runs round all its Gardens: The Neighbourhood of it is very +magnificent: _Charles_ V. caus’d Avenues to be made to it, which are now +in their full Beauty: ’Twas at _Aranjuez_ that I determin’d at last to +take my Leave of his Majesty; for seeing there was no Possibility of +getting any thing, I resolv’d to go to _Holland_, and from thence to +_Germany_, in order to settle some Family Affairs: I thought once too I +should not have had Leave to be gone, for the King did not seem inclinable +to grant it: He was somewhat scrupulous upon this head, for fear I should +change my Religion, till Father _Daubanton_, who was not so delicate in +things of this Nature, said two Words to his Majesty, and then he +consented to let me go: This was the only Obligation I ever receiv’d from +that Reverend Father: When I took my Leave of the King, he order’d me to +return as soon as possible, which I promis’d, and really design’d; but +Fortune, which always thwarted my Undertakings, made me steer a quite +contrary Course. Mr. _Stanhope_, who was always as generous to me as +possible, was also very serviceable to me at my Departure, for he lent me +40 Pistoles for my Journey. + +I set out from _Madrid_ in Company with a Nephew of _M. de Seissan_, who +was going to see his Uncle at _Bilbao_: The Name of this young Gentleman +was the Baron _D’V----_: It was not long before I had cause to repent of +having taken such a Companion with me; for he was one of those young +Officers who are always ready to clap their Hands on their Swords for the +least thing in the World: He was moreover so hasty, or rather so stupid, +that he never took time to hear what was said to him, for which Reason he +very often imagin’d, that he was insulted when People had been at the +Expence of paying him a Compliment: This, _Madame_, is a Part of the +Character of the Spark with whom it was my Destiny to travel: He was so +apt to enter into Conversation with every body he met upon the Road, that +it had like to have cost us dear on the first Day of our setting out; for +as we were travelling in the midst of a pretty thick sort of a Forest, I +perceiv’d at a Distance Four Men well arm’d, advancing towards us in the +main Road. As we could not avoid passing between them, I advis’d my +Companion to be ready with his Pistols: Those Gentlemen seeing us well +prepar’d, let us pass, but as we both took them for _Frenchmen_, the Baron +_D’V----_ would needs stop our Chaise to enter into Discourse with them, +and asked them who they were: They made Answer that they were _French_ +Officers, who had fled their Country for an Affair of Honour: They asked +in their Turn what News from _Madrid_; during which I observ’d that they +were coming a little too near our Chaise, whereupon I broke off the +Discourse, by ordering the Postilion to proceed with all the Haste +possible, because we had Business: At the same time the pretended Officers +doubled their Pace in order to keep up with us; but by good Luck for us we +discovered from a little Eminence a Convoy of about 40 Mules, and several +Persons on Horseback that were coming our Way: Our Pursuers no sooner +perceiv’d them, but they turn’d about their Horses, and rode off with such +Speed, as confirm’d me in my private Suspicion, that we had been talking +with Highwaymen; which soon after appear’d to be past all Doubt by our +meeting with several Alguasils or Messengers that were scouring the +Country in quest of Four Men, who we could easily guess by the Description +they gave of them must be the same that we had like to have been embroil’d +with. + +Upon the second Day’s Journey my Companion and I had some Words together +about paying our Quota’s: As I was the Caterer, and in all my Life-time +never car’d to pinch my Belly, the Baron thought that I was not frugal +enough, and refus’d at first to pay his Shot. However, he comply’d at +last, but, as the Expence always run in his Head, he never gave me one +kind Look all the Way, and even affected not to speak to me: For my own +Part, when I saw him in such a moody Disposition, I chose to be as silent +as he, and since I could do nothing better, I fell quietly asleep, and ere +I awak’d we had gone a good way: My Fellow-Traveller never open’d his Lips +till we came to _Burgos_. + + * * * * * + +BURGOS is the Capital of _Old Castile_, and was formerly the Seat of the +Kings of _Spain_: It has nothing remarkable but a very great Square, +surrounded with Houses of an exact Uniformity, supported by Pillars, which +form a Gallery round the Square. The Cathedral Church is a magnificent +Structure, but intirely in the _Gothic_ Taste. + +Near _Burgos_ is a very numerous Abby of Nuns of Quality, who as well as +all the Convents of _Spain_ have considerable Revenues: The Country from +_Burgos_ to _Vittoria_ is finer and better cultivated than in _New +Castile_, and the Villages seem more populous: I saw Peasants there so +active to what the _Spaniards_ generally are, that I thought myself in +another World. + + * * * * * + +VITTORIA is a trading Town, situate in a fertile Plain, full of Villages: +The Streets are very narrow, and the Houses, which are all of Timber, +project in such a manner over the Streets, that opposite Neighbours may +almost shake Hands from one Side of the Way to the other, which makes the +Streets very darksome. This was the City, to which the Queen _Mary-Louisa_ +of _Savoy_ retir’d with her Children and the Treasures of the Crown, when +the Archduke _Charles_ the present Emperor, after the Battle of +_Saragossa_ advanc’d towards _Madrid_, and thereby oblig’d King _Philip_ +to quit _Spain_. + +We lodg’d at the Post-house, where we found much better Accommodation than +we had yet met with any where in _Spain_: But when we came to pay, behold +another new Scene! for my Part, I pay’d my Share without grumbling, +because I always observ’d, that make never so many Words it must come to +that at last: Therefore, after having given what they told me was my Part +of the Reckoning, I stay’d but a little while in my Chamber, to see if I +had left nothing behind me, when all on a sudden I heard a great Noise in +the Yard, upon which putting my Head out of the Window, I was very much +astonish’d to see my Baron pulling the Coifs of the Landlady and Three or +Four Maid-Servants, who were pommelling him to some Tune. I ran down +Stairs ready to break my Neck, in order to rescue him out of the Clutches +of those Termagants, and ’twas well I did, for the Landlady had snatch’d +up a great Kitchen-Knife, with which she was going to run at him when I +parted them, and with some Money the Landlady was pacify’d: What gave +Occasion to the Quarrel was the Baron’s Refusal to pay what was demanded +of him, and his pretending to go away without leaving any Money: The +Landlady, who was not to be jested with, had seiz’d him by the Collar, and +he, in order to get rid of her, gave her a Slap in the Face; and the +Landlady insisted absolutely upon Satisfaction for the Affront she had +receiv’d; but at last, after a great deal of Clamour, they let us go. + +At _Vittoria_ we quitted our Chaise and took Horses, because of the bad +Roads we were to go thro’ to _Bilbao_, in a Country abounding with Hills +and Woods, which are the Shelter of Robbers: We alighted at a Cabaret, +which was a lonely House in the midst of a Wood, and were quickly +surrounded by 7 or 8 arm’d Men, who really had the Appearance of Ruffians: +They ask’d us if we were Officers, and if we had no others in our Company: +I had Presence of Mind enough to tell them, that we had left a Company of +Horsemen just behind, whom we expected every Minute at that same Cabaret, +and accordingly I order’d the proper Quantity of Hay to be got ready for +the Horses: I know not whether this News frighten’d them; however, they +soon left us, and rode farther into the Wood: We presently remounted our +Horses, and proceeded on our Journey: About a League from the Cabaret we +came to one of the highest Mountains that I had ever seen in my Life: As +it was very steep, winding Roads were cut out to ascend it, wide enough +for Two laden Mules to go abreast. At the Foot of this Hill was a charming +Valley, which, after having travell’d Three or Four Leagues in it, carry’d +us to _Bilbao_: This Valley is water’d by a River, the Banks of which are +lin’d with Vines and several other Sorts of Trees: All this Country is +extremely populous, so that one can’t go 200 Paces without coming to a +House: Here is also a prodigious Number of Forges, and they cry up their +Iron for the best in all _Spain_. + + * * * * * + +BILBAO is the Capital of _Biscay_, and the prettiest Town that I saw in +_Spain_: Its Walks especially are very beautiful: This City carries on a +great Trade in Wool with _Holland_, _England_ and _France_, and there are +commonly in its Harbour several Ships of these Three Nations. It was +formerly a free Port, which tended very much to the flourishing of its +Trade; but _Philip_ V. suppress’d that Franchise, and establish’d a +Custom-house, which occasion’d a very great Disturbance. The +Country-People, who were those that signaliz’d themselves most for the +Preservation of their Privileges, took Arms, and engag’d several of the +Citizens to join them: These Rebels committed a Thousand Outrages, kill’d +several People, and set Fire to the Houses of such as they suspected had +any Concern in the Establishment of the Custom-house: However, the +Insurrection was quickly suppress’d, the Authors of the Tumult were +seiz’d, and several of the most mutinous were hang’d, which Examples of +Justice had an Effect upon the Rabble; but, however, they were dealt with +very gently, for this Tumult gave the Government a fair Handle to have +depriv’d them of a great many most extraordinary Privileges, and such too, +as were in some respect incompatible with the Good of the Public: For +Instance, A Native of _Biscay_ cannot be sentenc’d to Death for any Crime +whatsoever except High-Treason and Heresy; all their other Crimes, how +enormous soever, being only punishable by Imprisonment or the Galleys. +_Catalonia_ formerly enjoy’d the same Privileges, till it was depriv’d of +them by _Philip_ V. when he reduc’d that Province. + +Near _Bilbao_ on a very high Mountain is a miraculous Chapel, which has +been mightily inrich’d by the frequent Pilgrimages that have been made to +it for a long time past: But of every thing that I saw in it, nothing +struck me more than the High Altar: ’Tis only of Wood indeed, without +Painting or Gilding, but the Workmanship of it is surprizing, and it may +be look’d upon as Art’s Master-piece; I have been told, that he, who made +this curious Piece of Work, was accus’d of Judaism, and burnt for it, some +time after he had finish’d it: But, in good Truth, the Inquisition ought +to have pardon’d him, purely for his Ingenuity. + +I stay’d longer at _Bilbao_ than I expected: I was every Day in Hopes of +finding some Vessel that was going to _Holland_; but at last being tir’d +with waiting, I went on board a Merchant-Ship of _Bilbao_ that was bound +for _London_, by which means I had a Sight of _England_ sooner than I +expected: We had so fair a Wind during the whole Passage, that the Sixth +Day after we set Sail, I found myself actually in LONDON[29]. + + * * * * * + +All the Places we pass’d by in the Way to this famous City form a Prospect +beyond any thing whatsoever: Nothing can compare with the beautiful Scene +in the Channel, to see the Multitude of Ships continually going up and +down on one Side or the other: The noble Shores of the _Thames_, cover’d +with magnificent Houses and beautiful Gardens, give a grand Idea of the +Riches of _England_: I was pleas’d to see the noble Foundery of Cannon, +Bombs and Bullets, and the Dock for the King’s Ships, whereof I saw +several lying at Anchor, which were all stately Vessels, and worthy of so +wealthy a Nation as the _English_. I was above all surpriz’d at the Bulk +of one of those Men of War, which they told me was that the Admiral goes +on board of when _England_ sends him out to Sea. On the left Side of the +_Thames_ also, before one comes to _London_, we see a magnificent Building +for the Invalid Sailors: And near this Hospital lie the King’s Yatchs, +which serve to carry his Majesty and his Court over to _Holland_, when he +repairs to his _German_ Dominions: The King’s Yatch is very large, and +richly carv’d and gilt: From this Place to _London-Bridge_ is nothing to +be seen but Ships and Boats continually coming and going, and both Sides +of the River are lin’d with Ships at Anchor, which forms a magnificent +Shew: I fancy that ’tis impossible for a Foreigner to behold the continual +Motion upon this River without Amazement: I shot the famous Bridge of +_London_, which, considering the Length of it, and the Tides of Flood and +Ebb, to which it is expos’d, ought really to be reckon’d one of the +principal Bridges of the World: The Breadth of it is by no means +answerable to the Length, and what renders it still narrower is, the +Houses and Shops built upon it, which are none of the best, and yield a +bad Prospect. + +I went ashore near _Whitehall_, which was formerly a magnificent Palace, +and the Residence of the Kings of _England_, but had the Misfortune to be +consum’d by Fire in the Reign of _William_ III. and _Mary_: What remains +of all this Palace is only one great Pavilion of very fine Architecture, +which was formerly a Banquetting-house, and is now a Chapel. ’Twas at +_Whitehall_ that the unfortunate _Charles_ I. was beheaded, and in the +Remains of this Palace the Window is still to be seen, thro’ which that +Prince pass’d to the Scaffold, that was erected over-against it. + +The Palace of _Whitehall_ faces _St. James_’s Park, which is the same to +_London_ as the _Thuilleries_ are to _Paris_, tho’ the former is much more +frequented than the latter; but that which takes off very much from the +Pleasure of the Walks is, the Promiscuousness of the Company, +Livery-Servants and the Mobility being suffer’d to walk here as well as +Persons of Distinction: In the middle of this Park is a spacious noble +Canal, which is a very great Ornament to it: The Walks are kept in good +Order, and especially that call’d the _Mall_, which is the longest of all: +On the Right Hand of this Walk going from _Whitehall_ stands _St. James_’s +Palace, which is now the ordinary Residence of the Monarchs of _England_: +’Tis a very ancient Building, which was formerly a Convent, and has still +very much the Appearance of one; so that, were it not for the Guards +about it, a Stranger would hardly imagine it to be the Palace of a +Sovereign Prince: There are Two Entrances to it, one on _St. James_’s +Side, and the other towards _Whitehall_, and at each there attends a +Company of the Foot-Guards with a Pair of Colours, and of these there are +Two that always stand Centry with their Swords drawn. The King of _Great +Britain_’s Guard is the sprucest that I ever saw: They are all of a proper +Size, but not Soldiers for mere Shew, as they are every where else, those +who are admitted being oblig’d to bring Certificates of their Service: +They are distinguish’d by the Terms of Life-Guards, the Grenadier-Guards, +the Halberdiers and the Foot-Guards: The Life-Guards wear scarlet Cloth +lac’d with Gold at all the Seams, and fac’d with blue: They are always +booted when they are upon Guard, and dare not be seen without their Boots +till they are reliev’d. The Habit of the Horse-Grenadiers is like that of +the Life-Guards, but they wear Caps of Sky-blue Cloth, which have the +Order of the Garter embroider’d on the Front with Gold and Silver. The +Habit of the Halberdiers is somewhat uncommon: They are dress’d after the +antique manner in scarlet, with a Lace in the King’s Livery, which is of +blue Velvet with a broad Gold Lace in the middle; and they wear Caps of +black Velvet, adorn’d with white Feathers: The Foot-Guards have red +Cloaths with blue Facings: This, _Madame_, was what I observ’d when I made +my Entrance into _London_. + +I steer’d my Course to _St. Anne_’s Quarter, where I had a Direction to +some honest _French_ Refugees: After I had rested a few Days, I took some +Measures to make my Appearance at Court, but without Success: The King and +his _German_ Court had been so prejudic’d against me by _Madamoiselle de +Pollnitz_, that ’twas impossible for me to obtain an Audience of his +Majesty. The Princess of _Wales_ was concern’d at my Situation, and so +good as to make me a Present, but the _Germans_ who were at Court were, +like their Master, shy of me, so that I was fain to content myself with +keeping no Company but the _English_, of whom I met with several that I +had seen in _France_, and with whom I renew’d my Acquaintance: They us’d +me with all the Civility imaginable, and took Care to carry me to the +several Quarters of _London_, where there was any thing worth seeing: They +first shew’d me _St. Paul_’s Cathedral, which, next to _St. Peter_’s at +_Rome_, is the biggest and the most magnificent Church in _Europe_: It was +begun after the great Fire of _London_, in the Reign of _Charles_ II. and +not finish’d till the Reign of Queen _Anne_: The Outside of the Structure +is as magnificent as the Inside: The first thing that presents itself is +the Statue of Queen _Anne_ on the right Side of the West-Entrance, which +is the Front: She is represented standing upright, as big as the Life, +dress’d in the Royal Robes, with a Sceptre in one Hand, and a Globe in the +other: Both the Statue and the Pedestal on which it is plac’d are of +Marble: But I did not think this Monument answerable to what might have +been expected from a Nation so famous as the _English_ for their elegant +Taste in the Arts and Sciences: Nor did I judge more favourably of some +other Pieces of Sculpture in the Inside of _St. Paul_’s Church, which did +not seem to be the Performances of Masters. I thought the Choir by much +too small, considering the Bigness of the Nave: The Choir is separated +from the Body of the Church by a Balustrade of Wood, resembling a Gate, +over which the Organs are plac’d to a disadvantagious View, owing, as I +take it, to the Chasms on the Sides: Opposite to the Entrance of the Choir +is the Communion-table, fenc’d round with a Balustrade and a Form whereon +the Communicants kneel: At the Right Hand of this Table is the Seat of the +Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is rais’d some Steps above the Ground; +and over it is a Canopy, like to those of the Catholic Bishops: All round +the Choir are little Pews or Stalls like the Boxes in a Play-house, and +there the Magistrates usually sit, when they come to the Church in a Body: +The Preacher’s Pulpit, which is plac’d in the middle of the Choir, is a +plain Piece of Work of Wallnut-Wood, and of an octogon Figure, so +contriv’d, that one does not see the Stairs by which the Preacher goes up +to it: On the Right Hand of the Door of the Choir is a Canopy, and a Seat +like to that of the Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is for the Bishop of +_London_. + +From _St. Paul_’s I went to see _Westminster_-Abbey, which being in a Part +of the Town at a good Distance from _St. Paul_’s, oblig’d me to take a +Hackney-Coach: These Vehicles are very common at _London_; but being made +without a Spring, are intolerably uneasy: However, they are of excellent +Service to rid a great deal of Ground in a little time; for the Horses, +which are very good, gallop for most Part, but the Pavement they run upon +being the worst in _Europe_, it gives terrible Shocks to those who make +Use of this Equipage, as I experienc’d in my Jaunt to the Abbey of +_Westminster_. This is the Church in which the Kings of _England_ are +consecrated and interr’d: ’Tis a very ancient Pile, without any other +Beauty but its Bulk: There is a good Number of Chapels within it, in which +are the Tombs of several Kings, Queens, and even of private Persons; but +of these there are few worthy of Remark: ’Twas in this Church I saw that +call’d _St. Edward_’s Chair, which is of Wood, without any Ornament; and +they say, it is the Chair which that Saint made Use of: The Kings are +seated in it at the time of their Coronation: On one Side of this Chair is +a Press, wherein is preserv’d in Waxwork the Effigy of General _Monk_, +who, after the Death of _Cromwell_, restor’d _Charles_ II. to the Throne +of his Ancestors. In a Chapel hard by I was shewn another Statue in +Waxwork, which represents _Charles_ II. himself as big as the Life, +dress’d in his Robes as Knight of the Garter: In the same Chapel I also +saw the Waxwork Statue of the Duchess of _Richmond_, in her Habit as +Duchess. + +In this Church I met With an _English_ Gentleman, an old Friend of mine, +who carry’d me to the Parliament-house, where the King was expected that +very Day, to put an End to that Session: And really I had not been long +there before I saw the King enter in his royal Robes, and the Crown upon +his Head: As I was inform’d his Stay there would be short, I went out, and +plac’d myself in his Passage, that I might see his Retinue: I saw him go +into his Coach, drawn by Eight Horses, attended by his Horse-Guards, and +preceded by another Coach, in which sate the principal Officers of the +Crown: The King of _England_ never rides with this Attendance, but when he +goes to meet his Parliament; for he is generally carry’d in a Sedan, with +Six Footmen walking before, and Six Halberdiers, or Yeomen of the Guard, +by the Sides of the Chair; while the Officers that are in Waiting +commonly follow his Majesty in Coaches, drawn each by a Pair of Horses: +The Prince and Princess of _Wales_ are attended, when they go out, much in +the same manner: I observ’d a Custom among the Livery-Servants of the King +and their Royal Highnesses, which I saw at no other Court, _viz_. That +when they are in Waiting, they wear, instead of a Hat, plain Caps of black +Velvet, made like the Caps of Running-Footmen. + +After I had seen the King pass by, I went and din’d with my Lord ----, +whose Brother I had seen in _Spain_: There I spent the Afternoon, and at +Night he carry’d me to the Opera, where I was highly pleas’d, not only +with the Performers, who were the best Voices in _Europe_, but with the +Orchestre, which could not be finer nor better fill’d; yet, for all that, +I don’t think it comes up to the Opera at _Paris_; for this at _London_ is +quite destitute of Dances, or at least when there are any, they are so ill +executed, that they are intolerable to Persons of a nice Taste: The +Stage-Dresses are indeed much richer than those of the _French_ Actors; +but then they are not of that clever Fancy, which the _French_ alone may +boast to be their peculiar Perfection: The _English_ Stage has another +Defect, and that is, the extreme Want of Performers, for they know nothing +of Chorus’s, and when the Scene demands the Appearance of any Retinue, +’tis generally compos’d of People that they pick up where they can get +them; for which Reason they all look very silly and confus’d: The Place +where the Boxes are, is in a manner round: ’Tis small, but very lofty, and +I thought the Seats very well laid out: The whole Company sits down, even +those in the Pit, in which there are Benches that form an Amphitheatre, +which is not very high, but almost of a circular Figure, so that every +body faces the Stage: This Place is so well lighted with Wax-Candles, that +it dazzles one’s Eyes, which is a very great Diminution to the Lustre of +the Theatre: The King, who was at the Opera when I was there, sate in a +Box on the Right Side of the Stage, without any Distinction, and convers’d +all the time with Three Ladies that were in his Box. + +Some Days after this I went to the _English_ Comedy: I shall say nothing +of the Play that was acted there, because, as I did not understand the +Language, I could only judge of it from the Applause that was given to it: +The Actors seem’d to be excellent, at least, if I might judge, by their +Gesture and Carriage, so that it would be a difficult Matter to find any +that appear to better Advantage. + +The little Prospect I had of obtaining any Employment at the Court of +_England_, and the visible Decay of my Finances, forc’d me to think of +departing very soon: Therefore, without Loss of Time, I made my Tours +about the City of _London_, in order to see what was most worthy of +Remark: I found very fine Courts, and more Squares than in any other City +I ever saw, which would have been more magnificent, if they had not been +spoil’d by inclosing them with wooden Pales, to convert the Ground within +into Gardens. The Houses are commonly very small, most of them have no +Courts before them, and there are few that have Gardens: But I must except +a good many Hotels or Palaces, that are very magnificent; such as the Duke +of _Montague_’s House, which is built in an exquisite Taste: The Court +before it is very large and beautiful; and the Garden perfectly answers +the Beauty of the Building: The Stair-case is worth seeing by those of the +nicest Skill: The Ceiling represents _Phaeton_ asking Leave of the Sun to +drive his Chariot, and the Fall of _Phaeton_ is describ’d at the Entrance +of the Saloon, just at the Top of the Stair-case: The Apartments on each +Side of this Saloon are also very beautiful, and most richly furnish’d. + +I went afterwards to see my Lord _Marlborough_’s House, which is very +magnificent, and full of Pictures, done by the most able Hands, whereof +the greatest Number was by _Vandyke_: After having in like manner taken a +View of several other great Houses, of which I don’t undertake to give a +Description, I was shew’d a Column, which in my Opinion far surpass’d the +famous Pillar of _Trajan_: ’Twas the _Monument_, erected in Memory of the +terrible Fire that happen’d at _London_, soon after the Restoration of +_Charles_ II. to the Throne of _England_: ’Tis pity but this Pillar had +more Room to stand in, it being pent up in a pretty close Nook, which is +the very Spot where the Fire first broke out: There’s a _Latin_ +Inscription upon it, shewing all the Circumstances of that sad Misfortune: +In the Pedestal of this Monument is a Door, that opens to Stairs cut out +in the Pillar, by which People ascend to the Top of it; and in all +_London_ there is not a Place from whence there is a more extensive +Prospect of the Country, except it be the Cupola of _St. Paul_’s. + +Not far from this Monument is that Structure which is call’d the _Royal +Exchange_, where the Merchants meet every Week-day from Noon till Two +o’clock: ’Tis a very large quadrangular Building, and its principal Front +is very magnificent: The Square, where the Merchants meet, is encompass’d +with a fine Gallery, supported by great Arches of beautiful Architecture: +In the middle of it is a Marble Statue of _Charles_ II. who is represented +standing upright, and dress’d in his Royal Robes: In certain Niches over +the Arches there are the Statues of the Kings and Queens of _England_, +which are all of Stone, and so imperfectly done, that they are a Blemish, +rather than an Ornament to the Exchange: Near this Building is another +Statue of _Charles_ II. on Horseback, which is a Monument of white Marble, +but so ill perform’d, that I believe it would have been better if it had +never been put up: The Equestrian Statue of _Charles_ I. erected betwixt +the _Haymarket_ and _Whitehall_, which is all of Brass, is much better +executed: Good Judges particularly admire the Horse, which is one of the +boldest Pieces that is to be seen, and was cast by the same Workman that +cast the Horse of _Henry_ IV. at _Paris_; but the Statue of the King was +done by another Hand: _Cromwell_, who had no Respect for the Blood of his +Sovereign, did not care to have his Statue preserv’d, but caus’d it to be +pull’d down, and set to Sale: A Founder, that was a zealous Royalist, +purchas’d it, on Pretence that he would melt it down, but, as soon as he +had it brought Home, he caus’d it to be bury’d under Ground, where it +remain’d till _Charles_ II. was restor’d to the Throne, and then he made a +Present of it to that Prince, who caus’d it to be erected on that Pedestal +of white Marble which we now see. + +A little Distance from the _Exchange_ is the famous Tower of _London_, +which is of the same Use to this City as the _Bastille_ is to _Paris_, +with this Difference however, that ’tis not so easy for a King of +_England_ to store it, as it is for a King of _France_ to fill the +_Bastille_: This Tower is properly speaking a Citadel, form’d of a Number +of Houses, surrounded with Fortifications: Here is the Arsenal, which is +the best furnish’d, and kept in the best Condition of any in _Europe_: In +this Tower are also preserv’d the Ornaments and Treasury of the Crown: The +principal Pieces are 1. The Crown of _Edward the Confessor_, with which +the Kings of _England_ are crown’d: ’Tis of solid Gold, set with Diamonds +and other precious Stones. 2. The Crown of State, which the King wears +when he meets the Parliament: It has a remarkable Pearl, an Emerald, and a +Ruby upon it, so large, that the Value of them is not to be estimated: +After I had seen this Crown, I was shew’d that which serv’d for the +Coronation of Q. _Mary_, the Daughter of _James_ II. ’Tis cover’d all over +with Diamonds, admirable both for their Size and Beauty: Then I saw the +Prince of _Wales_’s Crown, which is all over plain, without any Jewels; +and besides these, I had the Sight of many other rich Things, of which I +don’t pretend to give you the Particulars: I will only add, that the +Method of exposing them to View is very well contriv’d, to prevent their +being stole; for they are only seen thro’ a large Iron Grate, so strong, +that it would be a hard Matter to force it. + +After I had seen the Treasury, I was carry’d into another Room, where I +saw all the Statues of the Kings of _England_, from _William the +Conqueror_, Duke of _Normandy_, to _James_ II. They are represented in +Armour, and on Horseback, but the whole is of Wood colour’d, which makes +them frightful Objects. + +As you might happen to think me tedious if I were to be more particular, I +chuse to pass over many things in Silence, and shall only say a Word or +two of the Character of the _English_ People: I thought _Englishmen_ were +much the same in their own Country as the _French_ are out of _France_, +that is to say, haughty, scornful, and such as think nothing good enough; +and in like manner they are when abroad, what the _French_ are in their +own Country, good-natur’d, civil and affable: Of all Nations I found the +_Italians_ were most esteem’d in _England_, the _French_ and _Germans_ +being in some Degree hated: But their Hatred to the _Germans_ is of no +older Date than the Reign of the Elector of _Hanover_; for till then the +_English_ look’d upon us as if they neither lov’d nor envy’d us, but now +they have a Notion, that the Money of _England_ goes over to _Germany_; +and seem to think, that we had no Coin, till they call’d the House of +_Hanover_ to govern them[30]. As to their Hatred of the _French_, ’tis of +a longer standing, insomuch that it would be a difficult Task to determine +the Age of it; and I am apt to think, it runs in their Blood; for the +Antipathy extends even to the minutest Things; for Example, in the Article +of Dress; when the _French_ wear little Hats, the _English_ wear theirs +with monstrous broad Brims; and when they know that great Hats are worn in +_France_, they reduce the Brims of theirs till they are as much too +narrow; and ’tis the very same case with regard to the rest of their +Dress; so that I am persuaded, the _English_ would soon quit any Fashion, +were it ever so becoming and elegant, if once the _French_ thought fit to +follow it[31]. But how changeable soever they are in their Fashions, as +well as the _French_, yet they have not the Fancy which the latter are +remarkable for, and know not how to dress to Advantage; for, in short, +there’s not a People upon Earth that set themselves off so ill as the +_English_ do, and really they had need to be as well-shap’d as they are +for the Generality, or their Dress would be insupportable. + +The _English_ Women are also perfectly well-shap’d, and are for most part +pretty, and very agreeable Companions; but, like the Men, they han’t the +Art of Dress; and tho’ they are always very neat in their Cloaths, yet +they have such an odd way of putting them on, as if they endeavour’d to +disfigure themselves: When they go out in a Deshabille, they commonly put +on a Camblet Cloak as long as their Petticoats, which is clos’d before, +and on each Side there is a Slit, thro’ which they put their Arms: They +have withal a Hood of the same Stuff as the Cloak, which is tied under the +Chin with a colour’d Ribbon[32]. Nor is this Dress unbecoming to the Sex, +for ’tis very often us’d by the Citizens Wives and Daughters, and is also +much worn among the gay Ladies, when they go upon Intrigues with their +Lovers; at which time they repair thus rigg’d on board certain Wherries, +that carry them to Houses of Entertainment design’d for such Interviews; +the very Boats too seem to be made to the Purpose, being cover’d with +scarlet Cloth, or very neat Stuffs, and the Watermen being us’d to the +Business, manage it as well as the Gondoliers of _Venice_. + +That amiable Freedom which reigns in _England_ gives the People an Air of +Gaiety that is to be met with no where else so universally: The Nobility, +the Citizens, and the lower Rank of People have all their Recreations; and +whereas in other Countries the Rich alone seem to have a Right to +Pleasures, the _English_ Nation has Diversions for all Classes; and the +Mechanic, as well as his Lordship, knows how to make himself merry, when +he has done his Day’s Work. The _English_ are very much for Shows; Battles +especially, of what nature soever, are an agreeable Amusement to them, and +of these they have all Kinds: Sometimes they engage Bulls with other +Beasts, and at other times they have Cock-fighting: You have undoubtedly +heard talk, how these little Animals will fight: The Cocks of _England_ +are the best in the World for this Sport, that being a Species, of which +there is not the like in other Countries: Their Bill is very long, and +when they have once begun to fight, they battle it with such Fury, that +one, if not both, is generally left dead upon the Spot. Before they are +exposed in the Pit where they are to engage, little Spurs are fasten’d to +their Feet, with which those Animals gall each other dextrously: The +_English_, who are no indifferent Spectators of the Engagement, form +themselves immediately into several Parties in Favour of the Combatants; +and, according to the Custom of their Country, lay considerable Wagers; +for, it must be observ’d, there is no Nation in the World so fond of +laying Wagers as the _English_. + +The Battles of Animals are not the only ones to be seen in _England_, +there being very often Combats of Gladiators, when the Wretches for +pitiful Lucre fight with one another at Swords, and very often wound each +other cruelly: The _English_ delight very much in this sort of +Prize-fighting: They shout loud Applauses when either of the Two wounds +his Antagonist, and when the Battle is over, the Two Combatants shake +Hands, and make each other a low Bow, to shew they don’t bear one another +any Malice: I can’t conceive how they find any Fellows to take up such an +Exercise; the rather, because ’tis liable to very fatal Consequences; for +they say, that by their Laws, he who wounds his Adversary, shall be at the +Expence of curing him, and he that kills him, is to be hang’d without +Mercy. + +There’s another sort of Prize-fighters, who fight every Evening in the +Summer in a Square near _St. James_’s, with no other Weapons but +Quarter-staves, or wooden Swords, with which they break one another’s +Ribs, or knock one another on the Head, and the Victor is generally +regal’d by some or other of the Spectators. I have also seen, as I have +been going over the Square, a pack of Wrestlers, that endeavour’d to throw +one another down, and when one of the Two has tripp’d up his Adversary’s +Heels, he politely gave him his Hand to help him up again: At all these +Performances considerable Wagers are laid, as I have already had the +Honour to tell you. + +After having seen every thing at _London_ worth a Stranger’s Curiosity, I +was prevail’d on, before I left _England_, to go and take a View of the +Royal Palaces in the Country: I saw _Hampton Court_ and _Windsor_, which +are Two magnificent Palaces, yet Trifles in comparison with the Royal +Palaces of _France_: _Kensington_ Palace pleas’d me well enough: ’Tis a +House that formerly belong’d to an _English_ Nobleman, of whom King +_William_ bought it, because ’twas so near _London_: They were making some +Alterations at it when I was there: The King’s Apartment is very spacious, +but not the most magnificent, and ’tis adorn’d with some Paintings by +_Vandyke_, which are of uncommon Beauty; One of these Pictures represents +King _Charles_ I. on Horseback, and in another are his Queen, her +Waiting-women and all her Children: I never saw any thing better done than +these Two Pieces are. _Kensington_ Gardens would be very fine for a +private Person, but for a King, methinks I could wish them to be somewhat +more magnificent. + +Having finish’d my Travels in _England_, where I stay’d near a Month, with +a View of the Royal Palaces, I embark’d for _Holland_; but had not a quick +Passage, by reason of a Calm, that surpriz’d us at Sea, so that we could +neither go forwards nor backwards: At length, in Five Days after we had +left _London_, we arriv’d in the Mouth of the _Maese_, where we bore a +hard Gale of Wind, which blew all Night: Next Day we got safe into the +_Maese_, and by Noon came to _Rotterdam_, from whence I set out the same +Day for the HAGUE. + + * * * * * + +As soon as I arriv’d there I thought of renewing my Wardrobe, and +refitting my Equipage. Tho’ all this would not come to a great deal, yet +being then very short of Money, I was forc’d to go a borrowing: I +therefore gave Letters of Attorny to my Creditors, to receive an Annuity +which came to me from my Family, and of which I shar’d one Third with my +Brother, and _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_. As my Brother and I were Minors +when my Grandmother left us that Annuity, _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ being +the eldest of the Family, qualify’d herself to receive it: She was first +paid the whole upon her own Receipts, but afterwards she gave each of us +our Share, which she all along continued to do ever since I was of Age: My +Creditors were glad to accept of the Powers which I delegated to them, +but, for their greater Security, they desir’d me to make myself sure and +certain that _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ would punctually pay them: I wrote +immediately, and desir’d them to write to her likewise; but as my good +Cousin was never a hearty Friend to me, she thought fit to thwart me in +the Expedient I had contriv’d to raise Money: Instead of doing me the +Honour to write me an Answer, she wrote to my Creditors, to caution them +to be upon their Guard; that I only meant to cheat them, that I had no +Share in any such Annuity, and that every Word I had told them about it +was a Lye. My Creditors were somewhat startled at this Intelligence, and +imagin’d that they had to do with a Knave, who only intended to bilk them, +and that they should be left without Remedy if I once gave them the Slip: +I did every thing on my Part to make them easy; I told them that +_Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ had conceal’d the Truth from them, on Purpose +to involve me in Trouble; and that I would engage she should retract the +Letters she had sent them: Besides this, I offer’d to pay them out of the +Income of my own Estate: But all I could say to them signify’d nothing; +their Jealousy had taken deep Root, and they resolv’d, in order to secure +their Debts, to arrest me: And so they actually did; for one _Sunday_ +Morning I was accosted by some ill-favour’d Companions, who desir’d me to +remove with a good Grace to the Prisons at the _Hague_, if I did not like +to be carry’d thither by Force. I was a little confounded at such a Visit, +and saw that I must instantly lose my Liberty, and perhaps for a long time +too, when _Madame Pyll_, a Tradeswoman at the _Hague_, to whom I was +already indebted, was so kind as to advance me what was necessary to pay +my Creditors; by which means I got out of the Clutches of those +impertinent Fellows. + +Not many Days after this happen’d, other Creditors being inform’d of it, +imagin’d that the only infallible Method for their being paid was, to take +the same Course with me, and they also resolv’d to arrest me: Accordingly, +Notice was brought to me at 6 o’Clock in the Morning, that ’twas +apprehended there was a Design form’d against me, and that some Serjeants +were sauntring about to nab me: I had my Breeches on indeed, but nothing +more than a Night-gown; and not caring to take the Trouble of dressing +myself intirely, especially as I knew that there were not many People +stirring at the _Hague_ at that time, I thought it best to steal off in my +Night-gown: I made my Escape to the House of my dear _Madame Pyll_: I +could have wish’d this good Woman would have once more pacify’d those +ravenous Hounds, but I had not the Assurance to mention it to her; and +only desir’d she would give me Shelter for a little while, which she +granted with Pleasure: But I was soon under a Necessity of shifting my +Quarters, for the Catch-Polls being inform’d where I was harbour’d, were +actually coming to take me, when this honest Woman help’d me to slip out +at the Back-door, and lent me a Cloak, in which having muffled myself up, +I had nothing to think of but how to get away from the _Hague_: I put +myself on board the _Delft_ Passage-Boat, and went in quest of _Texera_, a +rich _Portuguese_, who had a House half a League from the _Hague_. We were +such good Friends, that I was persuaded he would not abandon me in the +Situation he found me in: And indeed, with all the Generosity possible, he +advanc’d me what Money I wanted, and had me conducted to _Honslaerdyk_, +where I stay’d Two Days in the Castle: My Keeper happen’d to be one that +was Waiting-woman to my late Mother, who did me all the Services she was +capable of, and went and acquainted _Pyll_ where I was; upon which she +came to see me, and brought me my Cloaths: I then consider’d what I had to +do next: I had a great mind to return to the _Hague_, to treat with the +Creditors who prosecuted me; but considering, that perhaps as soon as I +had made these easy, others would give me fresh Trouble, I resolv’d to go +to _Germany_, where I should be nearer at hand to write to my Family for +the settling of my Affairs; for I was still under a Prohibition to go to +_Berlin_; tho’ why I was thus forbid to go to my own native Place, I knew +not. + +I went the Road to _Aix la Chapelle_, in Hopes that I should there find +the Count _de L----_, to whom I had lent 400 Ducats 7 or 8 Years ago. He +was then in the Service of the Elector Palatine, and I was assur’d that he +was in waiting about _Aix_. The first Day I went to _Dort_, and from +thence to BOIS LE DUC. + +This is a pretty considerable Place in _Dutch Brabant_: ’Tis encompass’d +all round with Marshes, and may easily be laid under Water for several +Leagues round, which makes it one of the strongest Places in _Europe_: +’Twas _Henry_ of _Brabant_ that gave it the Name of _Bois le Duc_, or +_Bolduc_, i. e. the _Duke’s Wood_, because he directed the Building of it +in 1171, in the same Place where he caus’d a Wood to be cut down. + +At _Bois le Duc_ I went into the _Diligence_, which is the Name of the +Stage-Coach that goes to MASTRICHT: I made an Acquaintance in it with an +_English_ Gentleman that was going to _Aix la Chapelle_, to make use of +the Waters: He came directly from _England_, and being, as ’tis probable, +over-burden’d with his Guineas, he was at every turn exclaiming against +the Cheapness of every thing on this Side of the Water: But a little +Adventure he was engag’d in at _Mastricht_ alter’d his Opinion: He went +out all alone the very Night we came thither, with a Design, he said, to +take a little Walk about the Town; and in his Ramble he met with a very +amiable young Creature upon the great Square, with whom he enter’d into a +Conversation: After having parley’d with her some time, he offer’d to wait +upon her to her Lodgings, and she was not so unsociable, but she accepted +of his Proposal: My _Englishman_ thought himself a happy Mortal, and the +Damsel appear’d so amiable in his Eyes, that he begg’d her Permission when +he was at her Quarters to treat her with some Refreshments: When they had +empty’d some Bottles, and the _Englishman_ was ready to take his Leave, he +threw down a Guinea, and thought he paid full enough, but the Damsel +demanded another: The Gentleman scrupled to give it, and insisted upon it +with some Warmth, that a Guinea was sufficient in all Conscience to +discharge the Expence he had put her to: No doubt he should have paid +more Respect to such civil Company. The offended Damsel call’d the +Landlady, who fell upon the poor _Englishman_ like a mad Woman: These Two +were join’d by a Third Fury, who all together pummell’d the _Englishman_ +soundly, tore his Cravat, and turn’d him out of Doors without so much as +giving him his Perriwig: To complete his Misfortune, it rain’d as hard as +it could pour, and the Night was so dark, that he could not see which way +to steer his Course: He knew not who to ask for; and besides, he had +forgot both the Inn, and the Name of the Street where we lodg’d: At last, +being quite weary of running up and down the Streets so long, he took it +into his Head to knock at every Door, from whence he met with no Return +but hard Names: While he was rapping at one Door, he was surpriz’d by the +Patroll, who carry’d him to the Watch-house: It was well for him that the +Officer upon Guard was not an ill-natur’d Man, for he had the Patience to +hear him give a very confus’d Description of the Inn, of which he had +absolutely forgot the Name; and upon his saying that there were several +other Inns in the same Street where his was, they guess’d pretty near +where-abouts it was: Then the Officer lent him a Cloak, and having given +him a Watchman to go along with him, they thundred at the Doors of several +Inns, which not being the Inn that they wanted, there would certainly have +been some Uproar, if it had not been for the Watchman that the +_Englishman_ had to attend him: At last, as they were still wandring about +in quest of the Inn which neither of them knew any thing of, the +_Englishman_’s Lacquey, who was seeking his Master, met him, and carried +him to his Quarters: You must know, that this Adventure made it a very +disagreeable Night to me; for being extremely tired, I went to Bed as soon +as I had supp’d, and the _Englishman_ being to lie in my Chamber, his +Lacquey, who staid up there for him, disturb’d me sadly; for when he saw +’twas late, and that his Master was not return’d, he came every +now-and-then to my Bed-side, and wak’d me to know what he should do; so +that, to get rid of him, I advis’d him at last to turn out, and look for +him. As soon as they came into the Room, I was forc’d to undergo the +Penance of hearing the whole Story of his Adventure: The Lacquey was in a +terrible Wrath with the honest People that had insulted his Master, and he +propos’d to go out that Moment, and break open the Doors, and turn the +House out of the Windows; but the Master having more Wit in his Anger, +thought it best to bear his Disgrace with Patience, and to rest his Bones +after so much Fatigue. + + * * * * * + +We set out next Day for _Aix la Chapelle_; but the Count _de L----_ whom I +thought to have found there, was at that time in the _Palatinate_, and +therefore having nothing to do at _Aix_, I took Leave of my _Englishman_, +and proceeded in my Journey towards _Cologne_: As soon as I came thither, +I fell ill of a Fever, nevertheless I push’d on, and was preparing to go +up the _Rhine_, but when I came to ANDERNACH, a little Town in the +Dominions of _Cologne_, I found myself so ill, that I was absolutely +oblig’d to stop: Mean time my Fever prov’d a continual one, and I was in a +Place where I could not expect much Relief: The Mistress of the House +where I was told me, that there was an able Physician some Leagues from +_Andernach_, upon which I jogg’d on thither as well as I could, and in a +Fortnight’s time my Fever left me: Some Days after this I propos’d going +towards _Mentz_, but when I came to _Coblentz_, I found myself worse than +ever, and not being willing to change my Doctor, I return’d down the +_Rhine_, and went to spend another Fortnight with the Man that had cur’d +me before: Nevertheless, my Distemper grew worse, and even affected my +Mind so much, that I imagin’d I should never be cur’d where I was: I had +withal conceiv’d such a mortal Aversion to my Doctor, that I could no +longer bear the Sight of him; and fancy’d that a Physician of _Cologne_, +whom I knew, was the only Man that could cure me, for which Reason I was +wonderfully impatient to go to _Cologne_; and notwithstanding all the +Arguments of my Doctor to convince me that in the Condition which I was +then in it would be Death for me to undertake a Voyage, yet I embark’d in +a Vessel, and went down the _Rhine_: When I arriv’d at _Cologne_, I put +myself with Confidence under the Care of the Physician of whom I had such +an Opinion, and after having taken his Drugs about Two Days, whether it +was owing to their Virtue, or to the Force of my Imagination, the Fever +visibly diminish’d, and at last quite left me. + +When I was perfectly recover’d, I went up the _Rhine_ again to _Mentz_, +where I hop’d to have found my Cousins; but I was told, that they were at +their Estate in _Franconia_: This unlucky Absence of theirs perplex’d me +very much, and what to do now I could not tell: I chose to go to _Zell_, +where my Brother liv’d, and by good Luck I met with a Coach that was going +to _Hanover_: From _Hanover_ I went to _Zell_, where I heard that my +Brother was at _Berlin_, and I resolv’d to advance that way; but lest I +might be known, instead of going to the Neighbourhood of _Berlin_, I +repair’d to _Leipsic_, from whence I wrote to my Agent to know how Things +went, and if there were any Hopes of settling my Affairs: He sent me +Answer, that there was no Probability of it as long as my Estate remain’d +under a Sequestration; that indeed a Loan of Money would enable me to +obtain a Replevy by compounding with my Creditors; but that he did not see +how it was possible to borrow any Money, unless _Madamoiselle de +Pollnitz_, to whom my Estate was entail’d, would consent to it: He +concluded with telling me, that he knew of no other Method to get me out +of this Difficulty, than to obtain an Order from the King of _Prussia_. I +knew as well as he, that such an Order was the most expeditious Method to +bring me out of Trouble; but how could I obtain it, when I was not +permitted so much as to appear at Court? However, I thought it my Duty to +leave no Stone unturn’d this Bout for obtaining such Permission, tho’ I +had been deny’d it several times. I resolv’d to implore the Protection of +the Prince of _Anhalt-Dessau_, who had always given me Proofs of his +Kindness, as had also the Princesses his Sisters. + + * * * * * + +I went therefore to DESSAU, which is but Six Leagues from _Leipsick_: At +that time none were there but the Princesses, for the Prince had been +absent several Days, and was not expected till the Night following: I +wrote to _Madame_ the Duchess of _Radzivil_, the Eldest of the Princesses, +to desire that she would stand my Friend with the Prince her Brother: This +Princess was so good as to send me one of her Officers to assure me that +she would do every thing in her Power to prevail on the Prince to protect +me; and she even desir’d me to write a Letter to the Prince, which she +promis’d me to deliver to him with her own Hands: I laid hold on the +Princess’s kind Offer, sent her the Letter she desired of me, and as soon +as the Prince was return’d, she had the Goodness to deliver it to him: I +hop’d to carry all my Points after such a Recommendation; yet so far was I +from seeing the Effect which I expected, that the Prince desir’d his +Sister to engage me to make the best of my way out of _Dessau_, because if +I staid there any longer, he should be oblig’d to put me under an Arrest: +The Duchess, when she sent me this Message, was so kind as to sweeten it +with one of the civillest Compliments that could be, and made me an Offer +of Money, imagining, to be sure, that in the Condition I was in, I might +have need of it: I most humbly thank’d her for all the Marks of Kindness +with which she was pleas’d to honour me, and desir’d her to be assur’d, +that I would that Instant pray Obedience to the Prince’s Orders: And +indeed, as I knew that with this Prince Execution follow’d close at the +Heels of his Menaces, I speedily made an Enquiry for a Coach to carry me +to _Barbi_, which is the Residence of a Duke of _Saxony_ of the Branch of +_Weissenfels_, where I hop’d to meet with a Friend of mine, who was in +that Prince’s Service; but ’twas impossible for me to find either Horse or +Coach in all _Dessau_, for nobody would stir by reason of the Sacredness +of the Day, it being the Fourth _Sunday_ in _Advent_: Mean time, as I +still dreaded the Prince’s Anger, I resolv’d to set out on Foot: I made a +Man shoulder my Portmanteau, which was then all my Equipage, and went +with him to a little Town in the Duchy of _Magdebourg_, where I took a +Chaise that carry’d me to BARBI. + + * * * * * + +I there found the Friend that I wanted, who receiv’d me as well as I could +wish: This was the late Baron _de Chalisac_ whom you knew; but he did not +fail to chide me a little, for letting my Affairs run into such Confusion; +and advis’d me to go to my Brother, and concert proper Measures with him +for the Advantage of both of us: He also lent me 40 Crowns for my Journey: +I spent the _Christmas_-Holidays with him, during which he heard, that my +Brother was return’d to ZELL: I was very glad of this News, and next Day +after the Holidays I set out to meet him: I found him in a very good +Humour with me: He convinc’d me, that I had Reason to suspect my Steward, +and advis’d me at the same time to turn him off, and to take his in his +Room, whom he knew to be honest: I gave him full Power to examine my +Steward’s Accompts, and he made it out as clear as the Sun at Noon-day, +that I had been bubbled: My Brother, in order to oblige me thoroughly, +help’d me to some Money, and moreover, put my Affairs in such a State, +that my Creditors might not only be satisfy’d in a little time, but I had +something left over-and-above to subsist me. + +My Affairs being thus settled, I had nothing to think of now but which way +to steer my Course, to the end it might be said at least, that I had some +sort of Business or other: I could have lik’d the Service well enough, but +there was no War, nor none like to be very soon: Moreover, I had paid my +Court with so little Success to different Sovereigns, that indeed I was +under no Temptation to enter the Lists again: I might indeed have +return’d to _Spain_, where I had obtain’d an Employ, but what signify’d +it, where the Salaries are not paid, and the Establishment obliges one to +spend high? This Fluctuation of different Ideas puzzled me the more, +because which way soever I look’d, I saw nothing but Difficulty, and not +the least Glimpse of any other Condition that I could embrace: One Friend +advis’d me to take Orders in the Church, which was a Proposition that I +thought at first a little extraordinary; yet when I had seriously +consider’d the Matter, I judg’d it would not be so wrong a Step as I +imagin’d; that sooner or later I should not fail of having some +Preferment: In a Word, a Number of temporal Motives gave Birth to a +Project in my Mind, which ought only to have been the Effect of a +Spiritual Call: I was advis’d first of all to make my Court to the +Cardinal of _Saxe_, who was at _Ratisbon_: This Prince, who from a +_Lutheran_ turn’d _Roman-Catholic_, was very fond of new Converts. + +I went therefore to find out his Eminency at _Ratisbon_: My Brother +accompany’d me as far as _Brunswick_, where we stay’d some Days, after +which he took Leave of me, and return’d to _Zell_; and I for my Part went +to _Barbi_, to see the Baron _de Chalisac_ to whom I gave an Account of +the Settlement I had made with my Brother, and of my Resolution to think +now of the main Chance: He was overjoy’d to find me in such a Disposition; +and after I had spent a few Days with him, I proceeded to _Zeitz_, by the +way of _Leipsick_. + + * * * * * + +You know that ZEITZ is a Town which has always been the Appenage of a +Branch of the _Saxon_ Family: The last Duke that was in Possession of it +marry’d a Princess of _Brandenbourg_, Sister of our late King. That Duke +chang’d his Religion twice towards the Close of his Life: The first time +he turn’d _Catholic_, in Imitation of his Brother the Cardinal of _Saxe_; +and the second time he return’d to the _Lutheran_ Religion, in which he +had been educated: As he left but one Daughter, who was marry’d to Prince +_William_ of _Hesse-Cassel_, his Dominions ought to have fallen to the +Cardinal, and to one of his Nephews; but they being both of them +_Catholics_, are disinherited by virtue of an Article of the Treaty of +_Westphalia_: Mean time the King of _Poland_, who is a _Catholic_, seiz’d +them, and continues Master of them, so that those Dominions are govern’d +by a Regency, which receives its Orders from _Dresden_: The King of +_Poland_ made an Accommodation with the Cardinal and the young Prince, by +giving each of them a Sum of Money, and engaging moreover to pay the late +Duke’s Debts. + + * * * * * + +From _Zeitz_ I went to HOFF, the first Town in the Marquisate of +_Brandenbourg-Bareith_, from whence I proceeded to _Bareith_, the Capital +of the Margraviate of that Name, and from thence to _Erlangen_: Of both +these Towns I shall have occasion to make Mention hereafter: From +_Erlangen_ I went to NUREMBERG[33], which passes for the best built City +in all _Germany_: The Houses are all very beautiful, lofty, and perfectly +lightsome, and most of them are painted on the Outside, like those of +_Augsbourg_: The Town-house, in which the Senate assembles, is a Structure +remarkably beautiful, is very large, and completely well built: The +principal Front is adorn’d by Three great Portico’s with Marble Pillars: +The Inside is every whit answerable to the Magnificence of the Outside, +there being very fine Rooms in it, adorn’d with noble Paintings. + +The Territory of _Nuremberg_ is considerable, there being several Towns +and Villages depending on it: The _Brandenbourg_ Family have had frequent +Disputes with the Republic on account of some Lands, that they claim for +their Appurtenances; upon which Blood has been spilt more than once; nay, +in the Reign of the Emperor _Frederic_ III. there was actually an open War +upon that Occasion: At present _Nuremberg_ is secure against any manner of +Insult; it having good Ramparts, an Arsenal well furnish’d, and a numerous +Garison. + + * * * * * + +After I had stay’d Two Days at _Nuremberg_, I set out for AICHSTEDT, which +is the See of a Bishop, who is Prince of the Empire: I had the Honour of +waiting on the then Bishop of the See, who was of the Family of the Barons +of _Knebel_ of _Katzenellebogen_, and a Prelate not only of a noble +Extraction, but extraordinary Merit: Having a Letter of Recommendation to +him, I desir’d Audience of him, and he granted it to me with great Marks +of Distinction; for he sent me one of his Coaches, and gave me the most +civil Reception in the World: Being at that time violently afflicted with +the Gout, he was seated, and made me sit down likewise; and after a good +deal of Discourse, he invited me to Supper: The Supper was attended by a +Concert, which his Musicians came to perform in his Chamber: It was a very +numerous Band, and perfectly well adapted: I made my Court to him for the +Five or Six Days that I stay’d at _Aichstedt_, and when I went away, he +made me a Present of a Gold Snuffbox, which weigh’d 25 Ducats: He took it +out of a Cabinet that he shew’d me, in which I observ’d a great many very +valuable Jewels, particularly a Diamond Cross, reckon’d worth between 5 +and 600,000 Florins: This Prelate had moreover the Complaisance to defray +my Expences at my Inn, so that when I came to call for the Reckoning, I +was very much surpriz’d to find that I had been beholden to the Prince to +clear it. + + * * * * * + +At my Departure from _Aichstedt_ I took the direct Road to _Ratisbon_, +which carry’d me thro’ INGOLSTADT, a strong Place of _Bavaria_: It serv’d +for the Residence of several Dukes of _Bavaria_, whose Castle is still to +be seen, where lives the Governor, who is always a General Officer of the +Elector’s Troops. + +From _Ingolstadt_ Half a Day’s Journey brought me to RATISBON, an Imperial +City of _Bavaria_, and a Suffragan Bishoprick of _Saltzbourg_: There I +found the Cardinal of _Saxe_, who was come thither to preside at the Dyet, +in quality of the Emperor’s Commissary: He had for his Adjunct the Baron +_de Kirchner_, who had the Title of Joint Commissioner at the Dyet, and +had the Care of all Affairs: This Post of Commissioner at the Dyet is the +most honourable that the Emperor has in his Nomination; insomuch that a +Commissioner does not yield Precedence to an Elector; and his very +Instructions import, that if a King comes to _Ratisbon_, he must not yield +him the Preference: The Cardinal of _Lamberg_, who was the Cardinal of +_Saxe_’s Predecessor in the Post of Commissioner at the Dyet, had some +Broil with the Electors, and with the Court of _Vienna_, because he gave +way to the Duke of _Lorrain_: This Prince passing thro’ _Ratisbon_ to take +Possession of his Dominions, after the Treaty of _Ryswick_, sent Notice to +the Cardinal of his Arrival, upon which he went immediately, and pay’d his +Royal Highness a Visit, invited him to dine at his House, sent his Coaches +for the Duke, and gave him the Right Hand upon all Occasions: Of this the +Electors Envoys complain’d; but the Cardinal, not much intoxicated with +his Dignity, made them Answer, That he thought it was a Deference which he +ow’d to the Duke of _Lorrain_, not as a Sovereign Prince, but as the +Emperor’s Nephew: He made Use of the same Argument at the Court of +_Vienna_, where, tho’ for that one time only, his Conduct was approv’d. + +This is not the only Prerogative enjoy’d by the Commissioner to the Dyet: +He has a Right to have Guards, and is commonly serv’d by Gentlemen: When +an Electoral Minister repairs to the Cardinal for Audience, he is receiv’d +as he alights out of his Coach by Four Gentlemen, who conduct him to the +Chamber of Audience; There’s a Guard-Room, in which there are 50 Soldiers, +always drawn up in a Line with Muskets on their Shoulders: Next to this +Room is the Chamber of Audience: When the Minister enters it, the +Commissioner advances half way to meet him; They then sit down in Two +Chairs of State, under the same Canopy; in such manner that the +Commissioner is placed in the middle, and the Envoy’s almost over against +him, but a little to one Side, so that it stands partly upon the Carpet, +with the Back turn’d half way towards the Door. When the Audience is over, +the Commissioner accompanies the Envoy half way out of the Chamber, from +whence Four Gentlemen reconduct him to his Coach: The Envoys of the +Princes are only receiv’d by Three Gentlemen. The Commissioner expects +them in the Chamber of Audience standing, and leaning upon a Table, which +is under a Canopy, with a Chair of State by his Side: When the Envoy is +enter’d, the Commissioner sits down, and puts on his Hat, and the Envoy +does the same: His Chair of State stands over-against the Commissioner’s, +with its Back turn’d towards the Door, and plac’d in such a manner, that +the Envoy’s Feet do but barely touch the Commissioner’s Carpet: When the +Audience is ended, Three Gentlemen reconduct the Envoy to his Coach: The +Deputies of the Free States of the Empire have a Chair with only a Back, +and no Arms to it, when they have Audience of the Commissioner, and only +one Gentleman receives and reconducts them. + +When the Commissioner gives any public Feast, he must send an Invitation +to the Ministers of the Electors and of the Princes Three Days +before-hand; and the Table must be plac’d under a Canopy, where the +Commissioner has the chief Seat; and the Ministers place themselves on his +Right and Left, according to the Rank of their Masters. + +I had the Honour to pay my Respects to the Cardinal Commissioner, who +receiv’d me with all the Good-nature possible, and talk’d to me in such a +manner, as gave me Hopes of Success: The Envoys of the Princes spoke to +him also in my Favour, and they thought him well dispos’d to serve me: I +remain’d thus Four Months at _Ratisbon_ in continual Hopes, but still +without seeing my Affairs settled: I was resolv’d to be somewhat urgent +with him, that I might know without Delay what I had to depend upon: The +Cardinal was so good as not to refuse me to my Face, but he sent me Word +by one of the Elector’s Envoys, who spoke to me for him, that ’twas in +vain for me to stay at _Ratisbon_; that he could do me no Service; and he +said also, without giving any Reason for it, that even tho’ the whole Dyet +was to intercede for me, he would do nothing for me: This Expression, +which I could not think an ambiguous one, made me cease to sollicit him. + +At this same time the Emperor declar’d the Marriage of his Niece the +Archduchess with _Charles-Albert Cajetan_, the Electoral Prince of +_Bavaria_: The Elector of _Bavaria_ had waited for this News a long time, +and he receiv’d it almost at the same Instant when he heard that his Third +Son the Duke _Clement_, the Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_, had been +elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_, in spite of the Opposition which several +Powers had secretly fomented against him in the Chapter. The Cardinal of +_Saxe_ had conceiv’d some Hopes of attaining to this Dignity; but he +desisted from his Pretensions for a very considerable Sum of Money in +Hand, and for the Grant of the Provostship of _Alten-Ottingen_ in +_Bavaria_ to the Prince his Nephew. _M. de Plettenberg_, the Envoy of +_Munster_, gave a grand Feast on account of his Master’s new Dignity: He +caus’d a great Room and several Tents to be erected at the Gates of +_Ratisbon_, where there was Play under the Tents, and a Supper in the long +Room: The Cardinal of _Saxe_ was present at it, and the Envoys with their +Ladies, and all the Quality there in general were invited to it: After the +Feast there was a Firework, to give time to prepare the long Room for the +Ball, which held till Day-light. + +Not long after this Entertainment the Cardinal of _Saxe_ set out for +_Hungary_, where he was to preside in quality of Primate of that Kingdom, +at the Dyet which met there this Year: The Emperor and Empress assisted at +it, to settle the Affairs of the Succession of that Crown, the Right of +which the States of the Country acknowledg’d to belong to the +Archduchesses, Daughters of their Imperial Majesties, and to their +Posterity, in case it should please God not to grant their Majesties a +Son. + +After the Cardinal was gone, I stay’d at _Ratisbon_ no longer than was +absolutely necessary to take Leave of the Ministers of the Electors and +the other Envoys, from whom I had receiv’d all manner of Civilities; for +many of them, not content with shewing me the utmost Complaisance, +extended their Regards further, and knowing the State of my Affairs, they +had behav’d with a Generosity to me, which I shall always remember with +Gratitude; and happy should I be, could I one Day or other find an +Opportunity to shew them Proofs of it! The only one I can give them now +is, to mention their Names to you: The Regard you always had for me will +no doubt engage you, _Madame_, to esteem them as such generous Friends +deserve, which will be an Advantage they will prize the more, because as +they have the Honour to be acquainted with you, they know full well that +you never grant your Esteem, where it is not justly merited. + +The Count _de Konigsfelt_, the Envoy of _Bavaria_, was one of those who +strove most with the Cardinal to serve me: This Minister liv’d very grand +at _Ratisbon_: Every thing about him was of the utmost Magnificence: His +Table was exquisite, his Music perfectly well compos’d, his Equipages of a +noble Fancy, and he had a great Number of Domestics, all well cloath’d: +All this external Appearance diffus’d an Air of Grandeur throughout this +Minister’s Houshold, which gave a sublime Idea of the Prince whom he +represented: The Sollicitations of this Minister for me were warmly +seconded by the other Envoys, who also drew their Purse-strings for me: +These were the Baron _de Kirchner_, the Joint Commissioner; _M. de +Vriesberg_, the Envoy of _Hanover_; _M. de Plettenberg_, the Envoy of +_Munster_; the Baron _de Duremberg_; the Envoy of _Hesse-Cassel_; and _M. +de Hagen_, the Envoy of the Duke of _Saxe-Gotha_. + +After having discharg’d what I thought Politeness and Gratitude demanded +of me, I set out from _Ratisbon_, to meet my Brother, who was at +_Dusseldorff_ solliciting a Law-Suit, which we were jointly carrying on +with _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, and which we lost, no doubt because it +was not the Decree of Providence that we should enjoy the good Things of +this World. + + * * * * * + +When I set out from _Ratisbon_ I took the shortest Road, which was to go +thro’ _Nuremberg_, _Wurtzbourg_ and _Francfort_: I stopp’d a few Days at +WURTZBOURG[34], one of the richest and most considerable Bishopricks in +the Empire: The Bishop assumes the Title of Duke of _Franconia_: He, who +then possess’d this See, was of the Family _Schonborn_: This Prelate kept +up a Court and Houshold as considerable as any Prince in _Germany_: I saw +him in all his Glory upon the Festival of the Patron of the Cathedral: He +went from his House to the Church, with a Pomp truly Royal. I saw first +the Bishop’s Harbinger, follow’d by all the Domestics and Gentlemen of his +Court: Then came Six Coaches, drawn each by Six Horses, with the Bishop’s +Arms: Afterwards there follow’d Two of the Prince’s Running-Footmen, and +24 of his other Footmen, all dress’d in his Livery, which was Purple, with +Lace of green Velvet, mix’d with Silver Lace, and they had Waistcoats of +green Cloth, lac’d with Silver: After the Footmen march’d 18 Pages with +Cloaks of the Bishop’s Livery, lin’d with green Sattin: These were +follow’d by above 50 Gentlemen, who walk’d immediately before a stately +Coach, in which the Prince rode alone: His Master of the Horse, and the +Captain of his Guards walk’d on Foot by the Sides of the Coach, which was +guarded by Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_, dress’d in the antique +manner: 50 Life-Guards in Habits of purple Cloth lac’d with Silver, and +with Bandoleers of green Velvet, lac’d also with Silver, follow’d the +Coach: The March was, clos’d by Three fine Coaches, drawn each by Six +Horses, with the Bishop’s Arms: Arriving with this Train at his Cathedral, +he was receiv’d at the Gate by all the Chapter in a Body: A _Domicellaire_ +carry’d the Banner of _Franconia_, and the Marshal of the Bishop’s Court +bore the Sword of State, to denote the Sovereignty of the Duchy of +_Franconia_: The Prelate being conducted to the Vestry, and there array’d +in his Pontificalibus, walk’d into the Choir: His Throne was rais’d Three +Steps from the Floor, and plac’d under a magnificent Canopy, all of +Tapistry, with a Silver Ground: As soon as he was seated the Office +began, by a very fine Piece of Music, perform’d by the Bishop’s Musicians: +After a very short Anthem the Prelate took the Holy Sacrament from the +Altar, and carry’d it in Procession out of the Church: He went all round +the Cathedral with it, preceded by the _Domicellaire_, and the Marshal of +his Court, bearing one the Banner of _Franconia_, and the other the Sword: +The Streets thro’ which the Procession pass’d were lin’d with 4000 Men of +the Bishop’s Troops, which he had order’d into the Town to give the +greater Splendor to the Ceremony: When the Procession was return’d to the +Church, Mass was sung to Music, and the Bishop officiated: The Ceremony +being ended, he return’d to his Palace, with the same Train that attended +him to the Church. + +The City of _Wurtzbourg_ resembles the Magnificence of its Bishop, and has +Buildings both sacred and profane, which are very grand: I will give you a +more particular Account of some of them, after I have added a Word or Two +of the City itself: ’Tis an ancient City, and has been subject to many +Revolutions: ’Twas taken in 1526 by the Peasants of _Swabia_ and +_Franconia_, who rebell’d against their Lords upon a Supposition that +_Luther_, who at that time preach’d up Rebellion against the Authority of +the Pope, would likewise approve of their Revolt from their Sovereigns: +_Luther_, however, instead of approving of their Conduct, wrote +strenuously against them, but there was a Necessity of employing other +Methods than Remonstrances to reclaim them: _George Truchses_ of +_Waldbourg_, Colonel of the _Swabian_ League, soon reduc’d them to their +Duty: He fac’d them with a good Number of Soldiers, and the Peasants were +so rash as to make Head against them; for which, however, they suffer’d +dearly, for they were defeated in several Engagements; and I was assur’d, +that it cost the Lives of above 50,000 of them: After this Defeat +_Wurtzbourg_ remain’d quiet till _William of Grumbach_, who had some +Complaint against the Bishop, caus’d him to be assassinated: The Chapter +of _Wurtzbourg_ prepar’d to revenge the Death of their Bishop, but +_Grumbach_ resolv’d to prevent them, and putting himself at the Head of +1200 Men, he surpriz’d the City in 1563, abandon’d it to the Pillage of +his Soldiers, and by that means forc’d the Chapter to come to Terms with +him: The Emperor _Ferdinand_ II. being soon inform’d of _Grumbach_’s +Transactions, put him under the Ban of the Empire; whereupon _Grumbach_ +retir’d to _John-Frederic_, Duke of _Saxony_, Son to that _John-Frederic_ +whom the Emperor _Charles_ V. had degraded from the Electoral Dignity: +This Misfortune of the Father ought to have been a Warning to the Son not +to grant his Protection to such a Rebel as _Grumbach_: Nevertheless, it +was no Restraint to him: The Emperor, incens’d at such Conduct, put the +Duke also under the Ban of the Empire, and charg’d _Augustus_, Elector of +_Saxony_, to see the Ban put in Execution: This Elector acquitted his +Commission so well, that he secur’d _John-Frederic_, and sent him to the +Emperor, who caus’d him to be committed Prisoner to _Neustad_, where, +after 26 Years Imprisonment, the unhappy Prince dy’d: _Grumbach_, who was +also arrested, was condemn’d to be broke alive, and his Accomplices were +beheaded. + +Ever since this Expedition _Wurtzbourg_ has enjoy’d a profound +Tranquillity; which has render’d it so rich and powerful as it is at this +Day: Its Buildings both sacred and profane, as I have already had the +Honour to mention to you, are very magnificent, and its Cathedral is a +vast great Building, which contains immense Wealth: All the Ornaments of +the Altar, the Pulpit, and the Two great Candlesticks before the Altar, +are of solid Silver, as are also several Statues of our Saviour, the Holy +Virgin, and some Saints as big as the Life: Besides all this Wealth there +are beautiful and magnificent Hangings in the Choir, which represent some +Passages of the Old Testament History: The Choir is higher than the Nave +by several Steps: The High Altar consists of Four Pillars of black Marble, +which form a Semicircle, and support a Cupola of Wood gilt, and very +curiously wrought, which has on the Top of all a Ducal Crown: There are +Chapels in the Body of the Church, where Vessels of Gold and Silver cast a +Lustre on all Sides: The Bishop was building a Chapel by the Cathedral, +which, when finish’d, must be very magnificent, for the Inside was to be +lin’d throughout with Marble, which that Prelate had sent for from _Italy_ +for the Purpose: He hasten’d it the more, _because_, said he to me upon a +time, _I design to have my Bones laid there_. Perhaps this Prince was +persuaded in his Mind that he had not long to live, for within a few +Months he dy’d: He was succeeded by _Christopher-Francis_ of _Houtten de +Stoltzenberg_, heretofore a Member of the Chapter of _Wurtzbourg_. + +Besides the Cathedral there are several other fine Churches to be seen +here, of which that of the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent: I +afterwards went to see the Castle, which stands upon a Hill that looks +over all the Town and Country: The Road that leads to it is very rough, +and so incommodious for Coaches, that the late Bishop abandon’d it, and +chose to dwell in a particular House in the Town, till the noble Castle +which he was building was finish’d: I could not help thinking it wrong in +him to leave a Structure so magnificent, and so suitable for a Sovereign, +in which it may be said, that no Cost has been spar’d: ’Tis encompass’d on +all Sides with Ramparts and other Works, which secure it from any Attack: +The Inner Rooms of the Castle are indeed ancient, but they have lost +nothing of that Air of Grandeur which denotes it to have been the +Residence of a Prince: I never saw any thing look so fine as the Vaults in +this Castle, which, because they can have no more Day-light than what +peeps in at the Door, are illuminated by a great many Candles upon gilded +Sconces: These Vaults are full of Barrels, most of which are of a +monstrous Size, and they are all adorn’d with Carving, and full of Wine, +of which they don’t fail to let Foreigners have a Taste. + +As we go from the Court of the Castle one enters the Court of the Arsenal, +which is a Building of Brick and Free-Stone: The lower Rooms are perfectly +well arch’d over, and contain about 160 Brass Guns, the Generality of +which are 24 Pounders, and some carry from 40 to 48 Pound Ball. The +Pillars that support the Arch are garnish’d as well as the Walls with all +the Instruments that are necessary for Gunners, and with every thing +belonging to a Train of Artillery, even to the Harness of Horses: The +Bases were adorn’d with Boxes full of Musket-Balls: Underneath there are +large fine Cellars stor’d with Provisions enough to maintain 6000 Men for +a Year. The upper Rooms serve for the Arms, of which I was assur’d there +were enough for 40,000 Men, Horse and Foot, all rang’d in such Order, that +’tis a Pleasure to see them: The hollow Spaces are full of Flints and +Balls: The Court of this Arsenal, and all the Bastions of the Castle are +full of Bombs and Bullets: In short, to examine this Castle well, one +would take it for the Temple of _Mars_, rather than for the Palace of a +Minister of Peace. + +The new Castle which the Bishop was building when I went into his Capital +stands in the Town itself, near the Gate that leads to _Nuremberg_: ’Twill +be one of the finest in _Europe_, if the Model I have seen of it be +exactly pursued: All the Foundations were already finish’d, and about a +Fourth Part of the Castle carry’d up to the first Story: But tho’ there +was no Want of Labour, yet it requires a good deal of Time to bring to +Perfection a Structure which is 360 and odd Feet in Front, and forms Five +great Courts: The Bishop’s Design was to make the principal Stair-case of +Marble, and to line the Chapel, the Guard-Chamber, the great Rooms of the +Palace, and all the Chimneys and Doors with the same: The Gardens were to +be answerable to the Magnificence of the Building, and the Bishop had +actually demolish’d the Ramparts, and fill’d up the Ditches; but Death +stopp’d him in the midst of his Undertaking, and he has left his Successor +to take care, that the Work be finish’d according to the Plan of it, which +has been admir’d by those who are good Judges. + +After I had seen the Two Castles, I went to visit the great Hospital, +which is a very fine Establishment: This Building is compos’d of a great +Pavilion in the middle of Two very large Wings: The principal Entrance is +thro’ the Pavilion, to which there is an Ascent by Two Steps; and on the +Right and Left are Two fine Galleries in Form of Arches, which serve as +Corridors to lead to the necessary Offices for maintaining the poor +Pensioners of the Hospital: At the Top of the Stair-case of the Pavilion +is an Entry, which leads to a couple of close Galleries, in which are the +Chambers of the Pensioners, and to a large fine Room, all over carv’d, +painted and gilt: On the Left Hand are Two great Closets, in which the +Bishops retire during the Holy Week. The second Story is like the first; +there’s a Room like to that I have been speaking of, wherein the Bishop, +assisted by his Chapter, washes the Feet of the Poor upon _Holy-Thursday_, +and afterwards regales, and serves them at Table, accompany’d by the +Canons of his Chapter, who, when all is over, dine with him in the Room +below Stairs: Behind this Hospital is a very fine Garden, adorn’d with +Fountains, Grotto’s, and a fine Orangery, kept in very good Order; which +is for the Pensioners to walk in when they please: The late Bishop, who +was in every thing magnificent, design’d to enlarge this Building with +Four Pavilions, like to that subsisting, which would have form’d a fine +Court in the middle: There are other Hospitals also at _Wurtzbourg_ to the +Number of 15 or 16, all so well endow’d, as fully proves the Good-nature +and Wealth of the People of this Country. + +After I had stay’d at _Wurtzbourg_, I embark’d on the _Maine_, in which is +most pleasant Sailing betwixt Vineyards and fine Plains, that form a +Prospect as agreeably diversify’d as can be wish’d: When I arriv’d at +_Francfort_ I heard of the Death of _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, to whose +Estate in _Holland_ I was joint Heir with my Brother, but her other +Estates went to her Mother, who was still living. + + * * * * * + +From _Francfort_ I went to _Dusseldorp_, where I found my Brother, who was +still in an ill Humour with the Judges, for having made us lose our Cause: +For my Part, as I was more inur’d to Disappointments, I endeavour’d to +comfort him, and advis’d him to go to _Berlin_, and sell what Estate we +had there: The Death of my dear Cousin set us at Liberty to proceed to +this Sale; for now the Entail was only between my Brother and me: My +Brother set out therefore for _Berlin_, and I went to HAMBOURG, to wait +the Issue of the Sale: I stay’d there from _November_ to _Easter_, and +spent the Winter very happily: I have already had the Honour to acquaint +you, speaking of this City, that here was generally good Company: But this +Winter there was more than usual, most of the People of Quality that had +Houses in the Neighbourhood coming thither to pass the Season, and there +were moreover several Ministers sent to the Circle of _Lower Saxony_, who +were for most Part charming good Company: Such a one was _M. Poussin_, the +Envoy of _France_, who was really a Minister of great Parts and uncommon +Merit: The other Envoys were all likewise choice Companions: Besides these +Ministers there were several other Families at _Hambourg_ where Foreigners +of any tolerable Rank were perfectly well entertain’d: The Count _de Nat_, +a Lieutenant-General in the Emperor’s Service, and formerly Minister of +State to the Duke of _Holstein_, and General of his Forces, kept a grand +House there, which was noted for one of the best in _Hambourg_, where was +a great Resort of Company every Day without the least Confusion: And there +was a charming Air of Liberty throughout, which receiv’d additional Lustre +from the noble and gracious Deportment of the Countess, that Minister’s +Wife, to all Strangers that came to her: I need not give you a more +particular Account of this Lady; for I remember to have heard you speak of +her, as a Person of distinguish’d Merit, and who, with a great Share of +Wit, was to the utmost degree polite. The Count _de Guldenstein_ made a +considerable Figure also at _Hambourg_; his Table was delicate, and always +furnish’d with the best of Company; judge, _Madame_, whether I could think +the time tedious in a City, where from Morning till Night there was a +continual Round of Pleasure: We din’d to Day at one House, To-morrow at +another; and in the Afternoons there was Play, which was sometimes +interrupted by Adjournments to the Opera, with which I was very well +pleas’d: I found the Orchestre excellent, the Decorations noble, the +Dances very well executed, the Actors richly dress’d, and such as +endeavour’d to play their Parts for the best. + + * * * * * + +I set out from _Hambourg_ with a numerous Company to go to the Fair of +KIEL, which begins the next Day after _Epiphany_, and holds Three Weeks: +All this time _Hambourg_ is a perfect Desert, for every body hurries to +this Fair, because ’tis there that they are commonly paid their Rents, +that Leases are renew’d with the Farmers, and that Money is let out to +Advantage: Tho’ I had no Business of this nature to transact there, yet I +was determin’d not to stay behind so much good Company as went from +_Hambourg_. + +The Town itself is inconsiderable; it stands between Hills on an Arm of +the Sea, where it forms a Lake, and washes the Walls of the Duke’s Castle, +which is in very bad Repair, and quite unfurnish’d: And there’s a Garden +to it, which is in as bad Order as the Building: This Town is so populous +all the Fair-time, that ’tis difficult to get a Lodging: The Gentry meet +every Evening at a House, where is Variety of Play, and very often there +are Parties made for Supper, which is generally follow’d with a Ball: +There is moreover a _German_ Comedy, which, tho’ detestable, is well +frequented. + +After the Fair was over, I went and pass’d Two Days with a Friend of mine +at an Estate of his Three Leagues from _Kiel_: Then I return’d to +_Hambourg_, where I stay’d till _Easter_, and having receiv’d News from +_Berlin_, that no Purchaser could be found who was willing to give so much +Money for my Estate as I demanded; I resolv’d to go thither, in order to +make some Settlement about it with my Brother; I kept there _incog._ as +well as I could, for I made myself known to only Two or Three Friends +besides my Steward: When my Business was done I set out from _Berlin_ with +my Brother, in order to go to his House at _Zell_; where I intended to +stay till the proper Season for taking the Waters at _Carelsbadt_. + + * * * * * + +When that time came, I departed from _Zell_: I stay’d some time at +BLANKENBERG, where the Empress’s Father and Mother then resided: This is +no considerable Town: There is a Castle, which, by its Situation upon a +very high Hill, is mightily inconvenient for the Duke’s Domestics, who all +live in the Town: ’Tis an old Building, which the Father of the present +Duke has caus’d to be repair’d and fitted up, as well as possible in the +modern Taste: The Apartments are small, the only large one being a very +beautiful Saloon, the Walls whereof are adorn’d with Pilasters, and +Pictures between them of the Princes and Princesses, Parents to the Duke +and Duchess: And at the End of the Saloon are Chimneys, over which are the +Pictures of the Duke and Duchess themselves at full Length. + +To this Castle is a very fine Park adjoining, in which the Duchess has a +Menagery, or rather, a Farm-house, where she has a great Number of Cows +that she sent for from _Swisserland_, in a Stable which is kept +extraordinary clean. + +The Duke and Duchess were so kind to me, that I long’d to be in their +Service: I had no longer any Thoughts of being a Clergyman, and was then +at entire Liberty to make serious Reflections upon all the Projects that +had enter’d into my Head: Having then a Fancy to serve the Duke of +_Blankenberg_, I took my Measures for that End almost as soon as I had +thought of it: The Privy Counsellor undertook to speak for me, and at +first he had a very favourable Answer, but at last it far’d with me in +this Attempt, as it had in all the rest; I receiv’d a great many +Compliments, and yet was deny’d. + +After having stay’d awhile at _Blankenberg_, I took Leave of the Duke and +Duchess: The Princess was so good as to accept of a Couple of very pretty +Dogs I had brought with me; and me made me a Present of a Gold Medal worth +25 Ducats, stamp’d with the Effigy of the Duke her Husband, very much like +him. + +From _Blankenberg_ I went to BARBI[35], where I had the Honour of waiting +upon the Duke of _Saxony_, who commonly resides there: This Prince was +heretofore in the Service of the late King of _Prussia_, when he was only +Elector: He had left the Service a long time, and retir’d to his Town of +_Barbi_, where he has erected a noble Castle, the Apartments of which are +perfectly well furnish’d: There’s a superb Saloon, with a Chamber of +Audience on one Side of it, and a Closet, that are both worth seeing; all +the Furniture being of crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, of admirable +Workmanship. + + * * * * * + +From _Barbi_ I proceeded to CARELSBADT by the way of _Leipsick_: I was +soon weary of using the Waters, because the Season was so far advanc’d, +that most of the Water-Drinkers were gone: Having therefore nothing to +write to you of any of the Acquaintance which is commonly made at Places +of this nature, I shall only treat of _Carelsbadt_ itself: ’Tis a very +dirty Place, and inhabited only by Artificers, who work in old Iron: The +Waters taken here are of Two Kinds, and they are distinguish’d by the +Names of the _Sproudel_ and the _Muhlbadt_: The _Sproudel_-Water is +extremely hot, and gushes out of the Ground with a most vehement Stream, +as big as a Man about the Waist: Its Waters are not only hot, but scalding +hot, which is the more surprizing, because the Fountain from whence they +flow, is on the Side of a River very rapid, and very cold: Yet, in the +midst of this River, one sees mineral Waters, which smoak as if they were +boiling in a Caldron. + +As to the _Muhlbadt_ ’tis but little more than lukewarm: ’Tis not very +long that the Physicians have prescrib’d the Use of this Water, which +formerly serv’d to wash diseased Cattle in with very good Success; but the +Physicians taking the nature of this Water into Consideration, have since +recommended it to those People who find the Waters of the _Sproudel_ too +violent in their Operation: I have made Use of both, and they work’d with +me very well: They have no ill Taste; and ’tis certain, that if it were +ever so little disagreeable, it would be impossible for People to drink so +much of it, as they do every Day: The thing that I dislike them most for, +is, that they must be taken in one’s Chamber, which must be also kept +close shut up, because the _Sproudel_ makes one sweat largely, so that +were ever so little Air to be let into the Room, one should be in Danger +of catching Rheumatisms: People scarce ever stir out till Three or Four +Hours after they have done drinking the Waters; and the rest of the Day +there’s an absolute Necessity of walking about to prevent sleeping, which +after Dinner is dangerous: The worst on’t is, that as necessary as Walking +is, there’s not one agreeable Place to walk in, the Walks being all +extremely narrow, and nothing but Rocks to be seen, look which way one +will: The finest Walk of all is in a square Place, which is planted with +Rows of Lime-Trees: Opposite to this Square is a great House, where there +are very fine Rooms, in which the Persons of Quality, who drink the +Waters, assemble at Five o’Clock, and play till Eight, the Hour for +Supper, at which Meal People ought to be very sparing; Regimen being one +of the most necessary things to be observ’d in the Taking of those +Waters. + +When I had done taking them I set out Post for PRAGUE, where I knew that +their Imperial Majesties were to be present for their Consecration and +Coronation: I arriv’d there the Day before their Majesties were to make +their Entry, which was perform’d with great Magnificence, but would have +been abundantly more pompous, if the bad Weather had not prevented the +intended Cavalcade, which would have been one of the noblest Sights in the +World: The Emperor propos’d to have enter’d this Capital on Horseback, at +the Head of all the Nobility of _Bohemia_, and they had all laid out +prodigious Sums in Horses and Equipages; but a monstrous Shower of Rain +fell, which frustrated all the Preparations: Their Majesties made their +Entry in a magnificent Coach lin’d with crimson Velvet, richly embroider’d +with Gold: The Emperor, who sate alone in the Back part of it, was dress’d +in a Habit of Silver Brocade embroider’d with Gold, with a Hat on in the +Imperial Fashion, with straw-colour’d Plumes: The Empress, who sate +over-against him, was dress’d in a green silver’d Stuff all cover’d with +Diamonds: The Two young Archduchesses follow’d in another Coach, with the +Princess of _Aversberg_ their Governess in Company. + +As soon as it was known in the City that their Majesties were coming, all +the Bells were rung, the Cannon fir’d from the Ramparts, and the Burghers +and Garison made several Salvo’s of the Small Arms: The Magistrates of the +Three Towns which compose the City of _Prague_ receiv’d their Majesties at +the City Gates, where the chief Burgomaster of the Quarter call’d the _Old +Town_ gave them the Keys of the Three Towns, and congratulated them on +their Arrival at the City of _Prague_: After he had ended his Speech, +their Majesties were welcom’d a second time by the Cannon of the Ramparts, +and by the Salvo’s of the Small Arms from the Burghers and the Garison: +They then continued their March towards the Palace, and in their Passage +met with the Friars and Nuns, who saluted them at the Gates of their +several Convents: The Emperor and the Empress stopp’d their Coach every +now-and-then, on Purpose to be seen by those Friars; but there was no +Convent that was treated with so many Marks of Distinction as that of the +Jesuits: They had the Honour of complimenting their Majesties in a Speech, +with which they seem’d well satisfy’d: When they were arriv’d at the +Palace, their Majesties alighted from the Coach, and went to the +Metropolitan Church, which joins to the Palace: The Archbishop of +_Prague_, at the Head of the Bishops his Suffragans and his Chapter, +receiv’d them as they alighted out of the Coach, and after having +complimented them in the Name of all the Clergy, he conducted them to +their Praying-Desk, which was plac’d over-against the High Altar, and +there their Majesties receiv’d the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament: After +this there was a _Te Deum_, during which there was a triple Discharge of +the Cannon and Small Arms: This done, they retir’d to their Apartments +thro’ a cover’d Gallery, which runs from the Church to the Castle: At +Night they supp’d in public with the Two young Archduchesses. + +Next Day their Majesties receiv’d the Compliments of the Three Estates of +the Kingdom: On the following Days the Court return’d to their old Custom; +I mean, they liv’d at _Prague_, after the same manner as they did at +_Vienna_, till every thing was ready for the Ceremonies of the +Consecration and Coronation, which were to be perform’d on Two different +Days. + +Mean time I amus’d myself in viewing what was most remarkable in the Town, +and had Reason to be very well pleas’d with the Steps, which I was oblig’d +to take to be well acquainted with this Capital[36], which may in my +Opinion be reckon’d among the first Towns in _Europe_: It stands in a +pleasant and fruitful Country, and the Palace and Pleasure-houses round it +form a sort of Amphitheatre, which the River of _Moldaw_ divides into Two +Parts, that are join’d by one of the finest Bridges in the World. + +_Prague_ is divided into Three Parts, _viz._ The _Old Town_, which alone +is as big as the other two Thirds of the City, namely, The _Little Town_ +and The _New Town_: In the _Little Town_ stands the Metropolitan Church, +and the Castle of the Kings of _Bohemia_, upon a Hill which they call +_Ratschin_: This is the first Quarter of _Prague_ that one comes to from +_Nuremberg_ or _Carelsbadt_. + +The Metropolitan would be a great and noble Church, if it was finish’d; or +rather, if it was rebuilt; for ’twas burnt by the _Swedes_ in 1648; what +remains of it is inconsiderable, excepting however some very fine Chapels, +that contain the Relics of certain Saints, for whom _Bohemia_ has a +singular Veneration: Such is the Chapel in which rests the Body of _St. +Wenceslaus_ King of _Bohemia_, by whom the Church was founded: This Saint +is the Patron of _Bohemia_, and the whole Kingdom has a great Confidence +in his Intercession: On one Side of the Choir is a stately Mausoleum, +which contains the Body of _St. John Nepomucene_, who was beatify’d in +1721 with very great Pomp, in Presence of the Empress, who was at the +Charge of the Ceremony: The City of _Prague_, in order to do Honour to the +Memory of this Saint, has caus’d his Statue in Brass, as big as the Life, +to be erected upon the Bridge, from whence the Emperor _Wenceslaus_, +surnam’d the _Nero_ and _Caligula_ of _Germany_, threw him into the +_Moldaw_, because that Friar, who was his Empress’s Confessor, refus’d to +reveal her Confession to him. + +The Palace of the Kings of _Bohemia_, which joins to the Metropolitan +Church, is a Heap of several Pavilions without any Regularity, and without +much Ornament: The Inside is as ordinary as the Outside, yet for a little +Expence it might easily be made a tolerable Structure: The only thing I +observ’d here that could be call’d magnificent, was the Situation of it, +for from their Majesties Apartments there’s the finest View that can be +imagin’d. + +As one goes from the Palace upon the same Hill, one sees the great Houses +of _Schwartzenbourg_, _Martinitz_, and _Tschermin_, which are noble +Buildings, and most richly furnish’d: The last especially has more the Air +of a Sovereign’s Palace than of the House of a Subject; and he that +inhabits it is one of the richest in the Emperor’s Hereditary Dominions: I +heard say, that he lent the Emperor 1500,000 Florins, which makes Three +Millions of _French_ Livres, when the Exchange is at Par. + +I went down the Hill _Ratschin_ to go farther into the City: And on the +Descent of it I saw at the Right Hand the Palace of _Kinski_, which +belongs to the Great Chancellor of _Bohemia_; and at the Left Hand the +Palace of the Count _de Collobradt_, surnam’d the _Bulky_, and very +justly so, for I don’t think he has his Fellow in the World; and yet it +may be expected, that he will be bigger still, for he is as yet but 24 +Years old. These Two Houses are very beautiful, but yet they are somewhat +eclipsed by the Palaces of _Colloredo_, _Wallenstein_, and the Count +_Francis-Charles de Collobradt_: The Palace of this latter excells the +others in Contrivance and Magnificence, and is adorn’d throughout with +very fine Gildings and Paintings, done by the best Masters: The Apartments +are richly furnish’d, and neither Gold has been spar’d, nor Pier-Glasses, +of which there’s a great Number, and yet not so many as to confound the +Sight: To this House belongs a very fine Garden, which is kept in good +Order, and at the End of it is a Hill, the Declivity whereof is soften’d +by several Terraces cut out on it, which form very pleasant Walks, +especially when ’tis consider’d, that all this is in the middle of a City. + +I went afterwards to see the _Old Town_, to which one must pass over a +noble Stone-Bridge, and the only one at _Prague_: The Piles of this Bridge +are adorn’d with the Statues of several Saints; and some that compose +noble Groupes: Among these Statues is that of _St. John Nepomucene_, at +the Foot of which are People always at Prayers. On the same Side, but +nearer the old City, is a great Crucifix of Copper gilt, which the _Jews_ +were compell’d to set up in this Place, as a Punishment for some Crimes +they had committed. + +At the End of the Bridge stands the Gate of the _Old Town_: The first +thing one observes there, is the Great Convent and College of the Jesuits: +’Tis a prodigious Building, and worthy of a Society so considerable: +Beyond that I saw a magnificent Palace, which they told me belongs to the +Count _de Gallasch_, Son to the Count of the same Name, who died Viceroy +of _Naples_: ’Tis one of the finest Buildings in _Prague_, setting aside +its Situation, which is not the best: There are many other Palaces and +magnificent Houses, the particular Description of which might be tedious: +All that I shall say to you of this Part of the Town, is, that the Streets +are very narrow, and withal darksome: The _New Town_ is by far superior; +the Streets are spacious and beautiful, and the whole Quarter is much +better built than the other Two. + +The City of _Prague_ and the Kingdom of _Bohemia_ in general have formerly +been subject to great Revolutions: The _Hussites_ committed sad Disorders +there, and had like to have ruin’d the whole Country by their Cabals; so +that there was a Necessity of drawing the Sword against them, and when +they were totally extirpated, the Protestants of _Luther_’s Communion +became so powerful there, that they presum’d, under Pretence of Religion, +to revolt from the Emperor _Ferdinand_ their Sovereign: They ran +tumultuously to the Castle, and having made themselves Masters of it, they +threw the Emperor’s Commissioners, who then held their Assembly there, out +of the Windows of the Hall: Those on the Spot were the Barons _de Slavata_ +and _de Martinitz_; and the Secretary _Fabricius_ had the same Fate; but +happily for all Three, there was not one of them wounded: After this _Coup +d’Eclat_ the Rebels rais’d Troops, solemnly protested against the Election +of _Ferdinand_ II. to the Empire, and offer’d the Crown of _Bohemia_ to +_Frederic_ V. Elector and Count Palatine of the _Rhine_: This Prince +could not easily determine himself to receive a Crown, which he could not +so soon expect to possess in Quiet; but his Wife, who was the Daughter of +_James_ I. King of _England_, did not amuse herself with any such +Reflections and probably upon the Principle, _That to reign is glorious, +tho’ it were only for a Moment_: This Princess so wrought upon the +Elector, that the said Prince, for Want of knowing his own Interest +better, consented at length to put himself at the Head of the Rebels, who +had the Assurance to crown him with Solemnity in the Metropolitan Church +of _Prague_: The Emperor, justly provok’d at the Behaviour of his Subject, +sent Troops to reduce them to Reason: _Frederic_, on his Part, put himself +at the Head of a considerable Army; but ’twas impossible for him to stand +before the Emperor’s Troops; which being commanded by the famous _Tilly_, +beat him to such a Degree, that he thought himself very happy, that he +could retire with the Queen his Wife, and abandon the Throne to his lawful +Sovereign: This Rebellion involv’d _Germany_ in that unhappy War call’d, +_The War of Thirty Years_; because in Fact it lasted so long, till a +Period was put to it by the Peace of _Westphalia_. + +During the Course of this War _Bohemia_ had frequent Cause to repent that +it ever was the Occasion of it: The City of _Prague_, and in particular +the _Little Town_, was almost intirely plunder’d and burnt in 1648 by the +_Swedes_, who were introduced into it by one _Ottowalsky_, then a Captain +of Horse in the Service of the Emperor _Ferdinand_ III. This Officer +having conceiv’d a Disgust at something, made a Trip to _Koningsmark_ the +_Swedish_ General, and offer’d to introduce him to _Prague_, if he would +follow him with his Army: For this Purpose he told him, that the Citizens +were intirely secure against any Apprehension of an Attack from the +_Swedes_; and that they were fully persuaded, they would never venture to +make the least Attempt, considering the Handful of Soldiers which their +Army consisted of. _Koningsmark_ relish’d _Ottowalsky_’s Project, and on +the Day fix’d he follow’d him with his little Army, which did not amount +to above 3000 Men: He found every thing true that his Guide had told him, +and in the Night-time enter’d the Place by a Bridge, that serv’d to carry +over the Materials employ’d in the new Fortifications: _Koningsmark_ +push’d on directly to the Castle, which he enter’d with the same Ease as +he had enter’d the Town: But by good Luck the Emperor happen’d at that +time to be gone from thence for awhile to _Lintz_: The _Swedes_ plunder’d +the Castle and the City for Three Days successively; and they took so +considerable a Booty, that _Colloredo_, who commanded in the Place, lost +to his own Share about 1200,000 Crowns: While the _Swedes_ were busy in +plundering that call’d the _Little Town_, the Alarm spread over the River +to the _Old Town_, where the Burghers and Garison ran to their Arms, and +by that means preserv’d their Quarter from the Fate which threaten’d them: +Mean time the _Swedes_ made extraordinary Efforts to get over to them, and +’tis even said, that they would probably have succeeded, had it not been +for the Jesuits, who perceiving that the Garison and Burghers were in +Danger of being overpower’d, arm’d their Scholars, and sent them out to +their Assistance. + +The City of _Prague_ is now secure from such Insults, having good Walls +and excellent Ramparts, well furnish’d with Cannon: The Castle is +likewise very well fortify’d: A Citadel has been also built for the +Defence of the _New Town_, and as none but Catholics are suffer’d to live +there, the Protestants, who are absolutely excluded out of it, would find +it a difficult Task to foment another Rebellion there. + + * * * * * + +After I had spent some time at _Prague_, and found that the Ceremony of +their Majesties Coronation would not be perform’d so soon as expected, I +resolv’d to be gone: Having already laid out a good deal of Money at +_Prague_, I reflected with myself, that if I stay’d there any longer, it +might be out of my Power to answer all my Schemes: For you must know, +_Madame_, that I set out from _Berlin_ with a considerable Sum of Money, +and with a Design, while I was so well able, to pay off all my Creditors: +I began with those in _Holland_, and for this Purpose went to the HAGUE +about the latter End of _August_, and stay’d there till _February_: The +first Visit I paid was to my dear _Madame Pyll_, who had been so generous +a Friend to me, that I could not avoid paying her off first: I then made +several small Payments up and down, by which means the Debts I had +contracted in this Country were quickly discharg’d; and being still pretty +strong in Cash, I pass’d my Time at the _Hague_ as well as I could have +done at the most splendid Court; My Debts in this Country being now +clear’d, and the Ease with which I had satisfy’d other Debts that were +standing out farther off, gave me that Tranquillity of Mind which I had +not enjoy’d for a long time; and tho’ I had yet no fix’d Establishment, I +thought what a great Happiness it was for a Man to be even with the +World. + +My Brother came to me at the _Hague_, from whence we set out together for +_Zell_, where I stay’d till the Return of the fine Weather, and then +resolv’d to go a second time to CARELSBADT, not so much for the Sake of +the Waters as to see the Company there, which is always numerous, and of +the best Sort, when one goes earlier thither than I did the first time: +There was a prodigious Concourse there this bout, and all Persons of the +greatest Distinction: I had the Honour there of paying my Compliments to +the Elector of _Triers_, and the Margravine of _Anspach_, who came thither +for the Waters. + +From _Carelsbadt_ I cross’d the _Rhine_, to that Side of it where I had +been offer’d a Settlement; but, upon mature Consideration, I resolv’d to +preserve my Liberty, and lest my Philosophy should flag in the Sentiments +of that Independency which it inspir’d me with, I set out immediately, for +fear of being engag’d in a sort of Combat, wherein there’s no gaining the +Victory but by Flight. + + * * * * * + +I pass’d thro’ BAREITH[37], where I had the Honour of paying my Respects +to the Margrave and the Margravine, who receiv’d me with all the +Complaisance possible: The Margrave is a tall handsome Man, and serv’d in +the last Wars with very great Distinction: This Prince is fond of Pleasure +and Magnificence, for which Reason his Court is one of the most numerous +and splendid in _Germany_; and it has an Air of Grandeur throughout, from +which all manner of Constraint is intirely banish’d: The Margravine has +all the Qualities that a great Princess can possibly desire; she is one +of the finest Ladies in _Germany_, is tall, perfectly handsome, and has a +Presence, which at first Sight denotes her Dignity: ’Tis pity this +Princess had not given a Male Heir to her Dominions; for she has yet but +one Child, a Daughter, and if there are no Princes, the Prince of +_Culmbach_ will be Heir of the Margrave’s Dominions: The deceased King of +_Prussia_ had bought the Reversion, by which he cut off the Margraves of +_Culmbach_; but after his Majesty’s Death those Princes entring their +Protest against a Bargain that had been struck to their Prejudice, the +present King has compounded the Matter with them; and by virtue of the +Accommodation the Princes of _Culmbach_ are engag’d to pay a considerable +Sum to the King at different Terms, one of which elaps’d at the Death of +the Margrave of _Bareith_, as the other will do when the young Prince of +_Anspach_ also dies, because then his Dominions revert in like manner to +the Princes of _Culmbach_. + +I follow’d the Margrave’s Court to _Himmelscron_, which is one of his +Hunting-Seats: ’Twas formerly a Convent, and since turn’d into a Castle, +which is charmingly situated on a little Hill, inviron’d with Meadows, +where the Margrave had a Camp of 2000 Men of his own Troops, which were +all in good Condition, and they appear’d to me to be nicely disciplin’d: +His Officers are all Men of Merit, and a good Mien: On the Side of the +Meadow where the Camp was, is a Mall, planted with Four Rows of Elms, the +finest that are to be seen: At the End of this Mall, which is one of the +longest in _Europe_, is a Play-house, and about the middle of this Mall a +very large Pavilion, with a Room where the Prince and Princess play’d +every Night with the Nobility of their Court. + +The Margrave’s Table, which was always magnificently serv’d, especially at +Dinner, is made in Form of a Horse-shoe: The Princess always sate in the +middle, having on her Left Hand the Princess her Daughter and the young +Princess of _Culmbach_, and on her Right the Ladies of her Court and the +Gentlemen: The Margrave sate over-against her in the Inside of the +Horse-shoe, with several Gentlemen on his Right and Left Hand: Besides the +Margrave’s Table, there were Two others for Sixteen Guests each in another +Room, for such Gentlemen as could not be admitted to the Table of the +Margrave: After the Fruit was serv’d, a great Salver was set upon the +Table with a Coffee-pot and Cups, all of Silver, and every one there drank +Coffee without rising from the Table. + +Immediately after Dinner was over, the Margravine and the Princesses +retired, but the Margrave stay’d in the Room to talk with the Courtiers: +This Prince commonly stood, leaning only against a Table, and the +Conversation was spirited every now-and-then by the Circulation of +Bumpers: The Margrave was a good Toper, but he left every Person that +attended him to his free Liberty. + +About Six o’Clock, when the Princess was near upon going out, the Margrave +went to the Mall where there was Play at Ombre or Picquet till +Supper-time, after which they return’d to the Castle. The Prince had +another very fine House just without _Bareith_, which is call’d +_Brandebourg_: It stands on the Side of a great Lake, where are several +Galleys, Yachts and Gondola’s, which he often engages in Combats with one +another; and of this he gave us a very noble Representation, from a +Theatre built on the Side of the Lake, so that when the Bottom of it was +laid open, the Theatre appears level with the Lake, and has a Prospect of +it for half a League. + +In the middle of the Lake is an Island with a Fortification, which the +Margrave orders his Troops every now-and-then to attack and defend, on +Purpose to refresh their Memories with the military Evolutions. + +About half a League from this House is another, call’d the _Hermitage_, +because no Persons can go to it, but such as are appointed; and likewise, +because all the time that the Margrave stays there, the Prince, Princess +and all their Retinue are dress’d like Hermits: An Avenue leads to this +House, at the End of which is a large Grotto representing Mount +_Parnassus_, with _Apollo_, the _Nine Muses_, and _Pegasus_, forming so +many Fountains: This Mount is open on the Four Sides, and gives Passage +into a Court, or rather a Square, where there are several Rows of Trees: +The middle Walk leads to the Castle, the Architecture whereof is perfectly +rustic, and it seems to have been built out of the very Rock: At the +Entrance of it one meets with a very fine Work, adorn’d with Shell-work +and several Statues representing the Rivers and Nymphs: As we go out of +the Grotto we enter into a little square Garden-Plot, which is encompass’d +with a rustic Building, and at the End of the Garden is the main Pavilion, +with Two Wings, which communicate with another by means of a magnificent +Saloon, fac’d all over with Marble: The Right Wing of the Saloon contains +an Apartment consisting of several Chambers, which belongs to the +Margrave, who is Father-Superior of the Hermits; and on the same Side are +a Dozen Cells for as many Hermits: On the opposite Side is the same Number +of Apartments for the Margravine and the Hermit-Ladies: The great Saloon +serves for the Refectory, where the Hermits of both Sexes have their +Meals. + +The Garden is large, and kept in very good Order: At the End of it is a +Cascade, that falling from the Top of a Hill, has a charming Effect: On +the Sides of the Cascade are Terraces, and very commodious Slopings, +furnish’d on both Sides with a Palisade of Yoke-Elms that is breast-high; +and on each Side are Fir-trees, with Paths between them, each of which +leads to a Pavilion, whereof every Hermit has one: These Pavilions are +built and furnish’d after the manner of a Hermitage: The Hermits were +oblig’d to retire thither after Dinner, in order to observe a profound +Silence; but this Custom is mitigated in some measure, and they are now at +Liberty to visit one another: The Superior and the Superioress commonly +pay them a Visit: Towards the time of Recreation the Superioress tinkles +her Bell, to which the Prioress answers by her’s, and the Hermits of both +Sexes tinkle their’s also, as a Token that they have heard their Summons +to their Superior. When they are arriv’d there, they go out together, and +repair to the Place of Recreation, where they amuse themselves with all +manner of Play, and at the Hour of Supper they repair to the Refectory: +Sometimes the Hermit-Ladies regale the Prior with Dishes of their own +preparing in the Superioress’s Kitchen: The Hermits for their own Part may +take the Pleasure of Hunting: You perceive, _Madame_, that ’tis pleasant +Living enough in such a Solitude, and that there’s nothing too severe in +its Statutes. When the Court have spent their appointed Time at the +_Hermitage_, they all return to _Bareith_. + +After I had been thus an Eye-Witness of the free and easy Life that People +lead at the Court of the Margrave, I took Leave of the Prince and +Princess, with a Design to proceed in my Journey, not so much to seek an +Employment, as to satisfy the Debts, which I had been oblig’d to contract +at a time, when they allowed me no more out of my Estate than barely what +they could not possibly take away from me: Here, _Madame_, I conclude the +Account of my Rambles. How tedious soever a Narrative of so little Concern +may appear to you, be so good as not to take it amiss of me, and to +consider, that I wrote it only in Obedience to Orders often repeated: Some +Person more self-interested might have scrupled such Obedience; nor did I +want Reasons to alledge for my Excuse; only I was afraid lest such +obstinate Silence on my Part should be deem’d unworthy of that profound +Respect, with which I am, and ever shall be, + + MADAME, + _Your Most Humble_, + _And Most Obedient Servant_, + DE POLLNITZ. + + [Illustration: Decoration.] + + + + + APPENDIX. + + THE + PROFESSION of FAITH, + + Deliver’d to His EMINENCY, the + + Cardinal ---- at _Rome_. + + _Translated from the_ ITALIAN. + + +MY LORD, + +Ever since there was a Diversity of Religions in the World, the Conduct of +Persons that have chang’d one for another has been liable to the Censure +of those whose Communion they abandon, and given Rise to Variety of +Reflections among People of that new Communion which they embrace; and a +Reproach has been often cast upon Proselytes, that either Interest or +Ignorance was the Cause of their Change: What the World will think of me +for renouncing the Heresy of _Calvin_, and taking up with what I thought +the soundest Doctrine; that is to say, for entering into the Bosom of that +Church to which the Heterodoxy of my Ancestors had made me a Stranger, I +know not: But be it what it will, I am ever ready to account to all +Mankind for an Action, of which I revere the Remembrance; and which I am +only sorry, I had not done sooner. + +As to _Interest_, I don’t think it can possibly be said, that it had any +Share in my Conversion: For the Light that I stood in with the King of +_Prussia_, the Rank I bore at his Court, either upon the Score of my +Family, or for the Employments I had there, and the Wealth and Fortune of +which I was Possessor; all these Advantages, compar’d with the Situation I +am in at present, must convince the World, that Interest was not the +Motive which engag’d me to change my Religion. + +As to _Ignorance_; I should be vain indeed if I thought myself a Man of +Learning, or if I aim’d at the Character: However, I will venture to say, +that I am not ignorant of any of the principal Articles of the Orthodox +Religion which I profess: For this I appeal to your Lordship, as you are +my Bishop, in Quality of Vicar General of _Upper_ and _Lower Saxony_, with +which his Holiness has dignify’d you: I intreat, that you will be pleas’d +to give your Attention to the Confession of Faith which I have hereunto +annex’d: Pray, my Lord, examine whether it be orthodox, since to your +Judgment I intirely refer it; and if there unluckily happens to be any +thing in it which is not conformable to the Sentiments of the Catholic +Religion, I absolutely submit myself to your Decision; the rather, because +I shall always count it an Honour to be one of your Diocesans, and ever be +desirous from the Bottom of my Soul to improve by your Lordship’s +Instructions. + +Upon reading that Passage of the Apostle to the _Ephesians_, Chap. iv. +Ver. 5. _Unus Dominus, una Fides, unum Baptisma_; i. e. One Lord, one +Faith, one Baptism; I enquir’d, what was the true Faith: And when I had +divested myself of all Opinions which I had imbib’d from my Education, the +very first Reflection that I made led me to examine into the Origin of the +pretended Reformed Religion, and after what manner it began. I found, that +in all Countries Interest, Ambition, Licentiousness, Revenge were the +Motives that gave Rise to the Establishment of that Religion: I +scrutiniz’d the Lives and Morals of the Leaders of those Sects; and +discover’d, that they were generally passionate Men, inclin’d to Choler, +addicted to sensual Pleasures, Men that led irregular Lives, and made no +Account of their Promises. Consequently I could not persuade myself, that +God would have made Choice of such Persons for reforming his Church, +supposing even that it stood in need of it: I carry’d my Reflections +farther; I consider’d the Disagreement between the very Pretenders to +Reformation, and perceiv’d, that their Body is a Body without a Head, +where every Prince, and every Sovereign makes himself Arbiter of the +Articles of Faith, and assumes to himself the Authority of the Pope: Every +Parson is with them a Bishop, every one explains the Holy Scripture after +his own way, and in the Sense that he himself understands it; and every +one adopts to himself a particular System of religious Principles and +Opinions; they are Sheep without a Shepherd: In short, the Pretenders to +Reformation are continually at Variance with each other; they reject and +condemn one another’s Doctrines, and never agree, but when they act in +Opposition to the Pope, or the Catholics. Moreover, their Religion is not +now, what it was at the Time of its Establishment: The _Calvinists_ were +formerly unanimous in the Belief of Predestination: But now there’s hardly +any of them of that Opinion, except the _Swiss_ and _Dutch_: The others +reject it, as to the Point of Salvation, and only allow of it with regard +to the Hour of Death, and the Accidents of Life, which, according to them, +are fix’d by inevitable Destiny. Heretofore also, both the _Lutherans_ and +_Calvinists_ agreed universally, that Salvation was attainable in the +Catholic Religion; but now they think otherwise; and for some Years past, +they have thought fit to declare in their Writings, that the Catholics are +damned. + +I also reflected on the Number of different Sects that are sprung out of +the Two Religions, and did not find one of them but what flatter’d +themselves with a Conceit, that their’s was the true Religion, tho’ they +were all of opposite Sentiments to each other: I could not imagine, how +these Divisions could be the Mark of the true Church; it being impossible +to conceive, that a Church under such Direction can be the true Church. + +When I afterwards came to consider the Establishment and Ordination of +their Ministers, I could not look upon them as such, being persuaded, as +St. _Paul_ says, That Bishops are of divine Institution; and that they +alone have the Power of ordaining Priests. + +Tradition, which is rejected by the Protestants in all Points where it +makes against them, but espous’d by them when it seems in their Favour, +was an Article which I thought requir’d my utmost Regard. For really when +the Protestants say, they don’t believe Tradition, methinks they are +inconsistent with themselves in receiving the Holy Scripture, and taking +it for the Word of God, because this is a Truth, which they cannot know +but by Tradition: And if they allow of Tradition with regard to the +Scripture, Why don’t they admit of it when religious Tenets are the Points +in Question? How can they know, unless it be by Tradition, that the Books +of the _Maccabees_, _Esther_, _Esdras_ and _Ecclesiasticus_ are +Apocryphal, and not Canonical? Who told them, that the rest of the Bible +was dictated by the Holy Spirit? In short, Who gave them Authority to +reject those other Books? What Motive could have induc’d them to it, +unless it was, that those very Books prove Things to them, which they are +not willing to believe? In short, I look’d into _Calvinism_ for some Marks +of the true Church, but could find none; because the true Church must be +one, and united to Jesus Christ in the same manner as the Body is to the +Head; and because ’tis Jesus Christ who founded the Church, who own’d it +for his Spouse, for the Daughter of God the Father, and at the same time +to be the only infallible Church. + +Having discovered none of these Marks in the Protestant Religion, and +finding them, on the other hand, in the Catholic Religion, I could not +help thinking the latter to be the only one in which I might hope for my +Salvation: This was what determin’d me to study the Doctrines of it, and +these that follow are what I have conceiv’d in my Mind, and what I firmly +believe in. + + * * * * * + +I. I receive the Holy Scriptures intire without the least Diminution, and +believe them to be of Divine Inspiration. I believe, that _Moses_ and the +Prophets, the Evangelists and the Apostles wrote them by the same +Inspiration. I give the same Explanation to the Holy Scriptures as the +Catholic Church does, which alone has the Right of interpreting them. I +believe also, that those same Scriptures are the Basis and Foundation of +Religion, and that none but those who can explain them as the Church does, +ought to read them. + + * * * * * + +II. Upon the Evidence of the Holy Scriptures, I believe in one God alone, +the most perfect of all Beings; a Spirit pure, free, disengag’d from all +Matter; which knows all Things, is infinitely wise, omnipotent, +unspeakably gracious and merciful, just and holy; who suffereth not Sin to +go unpunish’d, and who cannot change; who is of infinite Glory and +Majesty; who is the eternal and inexhaustible Source of Goodness and +Charity, and from whom proceedeth every thing that is good and perfect; +who diffuseth himself in all his Creatures; who is the Father of all +Things, and who of his infinite Mercy vouchsafed to give us his only Son +for our Salvation. + + * * * * * + +III. I believe in the most Holy Trinity, the Father, the Son, and the Holy +Ghost, who, tho’ Three distinct Persons, are nevertheless but One God: +These three Persons are eternal, and equal in Majesty and Glory. + + * * * * * + +IV. I call the _Father_, God the Father, because the same Scripture gives +him that Title, _Deut._ xxxii. Ver. 6. _Is not He thy Father that hath +bought thee? Hath he not made thee, and established thee?_ And in another +Passage, _Mal._ ii. Ver. 10. _Have we not all one Father? Hath not one God +created us?_ The New Testament also gives him the same Appellation: In the +Epistle to the _Romans_, Chap. viii. Ver. 15. St. _Paul_ says, _For ye +have not received the Spirit of Bondage again to fear; but ye have +received the Spirit of Adoption, whereby we cry, Abba, Father. Behold,_ +(says St. _John_, I _Ep._ Chap. iii. Ver. 1.) _what manner of Love the +Father hath bestowed upon us, that we should be called the Sons of God: +Therefore the World knoweth us not, because it knew him not._ + + * * * * * + +V. I believe in _Jesus Christ_, the only Son of God, and God himself; by +whom all Things were made, who has created Heaven and Earth, whom the +Angels adore and glorify; who knows the Hearts of Men; whose Power is +everlasting, and who vouchsafed to come into the World to be our Saviour +and our Redeemer. + + * * * * * + +VI. I believe in _Jesus_ the Son of God, because the Belief of this Truth +is the Basis of our Salvation, and of our Redemption. Besides, we are +assur’d of this by the Holy Scriptures. St. _John_ says in his first +Epistle, Chap. iv. Ver. 15. _Whosoever shall confess that Jesus is the Son +of God_, God _dwelleth in Him, and He in God._ Jesus Christ, speaking of +himself, says in St. _Matthew_, Chap. xvi. Ver. 17. _Blessed art thou +Simon Barjona, for Flesh and Blood hath not revealed it unto Thee, but my +Father which is in Heaven._ + + * * * * * + +VII. I believe, that the _Holy Ghost_ is God as well as the Father, and as +the Son; that he is like them from all Eternity; that he is equal with +them; that he is infinitely perfect; that he is the Sovereign Good, the +Sovereign Wisdom: that he has the same Essence, the same Nature with the +Father and the Son, from whom he proceedeth from all Eternity. + + * * * * * + +VIII. I believe likewise in the Holy Ghost, upon the Evidence of the +sacred Scriptures, which give him this Name upon several Occasions, but +more particularly in the New Testament than in the Old. In the New +Testament we are commanded to be baptized _In the Name of the Father, and +of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost_, Matt. Chap, xxviii. Ver. 19. St. +_Peter_ said to _Ananias_ and _Saphira_, Acts Chap. v. Ver. 3. _Ananias, +Why hath Satan filled thine Heart to lie to the Holy Ghost?_ And a little +after he said, _Thou hast not lied unto Men, but unto God_: He here gives +the Appellation of _God_, to him whom he had call’d but just before the +_Holy Ghost_. St. _Paul_, in his first Epistle to the _Corinthians_, Chap. +xii. Ver. 6. after having spoke of God, says, that ’tis of the Holy Spirit +that he had been speaking. _And there are Diversities of Operations, but +it is the same God which worketh all in all._ And then he adds in the +Eleventh Verse, _But all these worketh that one and the self-same Spirit, +dividing to every Man severally as he will._ Finally, the Scripture +commonly joins the Person of the Holy Ghost with the Father and the Son, +as I have already said, speaking of Baptism. And in Ordination it makes +Use of the Name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost: It +ascribes to him, whatever we think agreeable to God alone: It gives him, +for Instance, Temples; _Know ye not_, (says St. _Paul_, 1 _Cor._ Chap. vi. +Ver. 19.) _that your Body is the Temple of the Holy Ghost, which is in +you?_ The same Scripture also ascribes to it the Power of sanctifying and +quickening our Souls, of penetrating into what is the most secret in the +Godhead, of speaking by the Oracles of the Prophets; and finally, of being +omnipresent: Those are the Attributes of God alone, and such as are only +suitable to him. I therefore make no Scruple to believe, that the Holy +Ghost is truly God, as well as the Father and the Son; that he is the +Third Person of the most Holy Trinity; and that, as such, I ought to +worship, pray to him, and praise him. + + * * * * * + +IX. I firmly and religiously believe, that God is the Creator of all +Things visible and invisible; that his Power is infinite, and that nothing +induc’d him to create the World, but his mere Goodness, which he was +indeed pleas’d to communicate to the Things that he created: He form’d the +Body of Man from the Clay of the Earth, and dispos’d it in such a manner, +that it was capable of being immortal and impassible, not by its own +Nature, but thro’ special Grace. As to our Soul, he made it after his own +Image and Likeness, he gave it Free Will, and so temper’d its Inclinations +and Desires, that it was intirely subject to Reason; and besides all these +Advantages, he also gave it original Righteousness: But _Adam_, the common +Father of all Men, for not observing the Injunction that God had laid upon +him not to eat of the Fruit of the Tree of Knowledge of Good and Evil, +forfeited, as to himself and his Descendants too, that Righteousness in +which he had been created: By Consequence all the Human Race was depriv’d +of that Dignity and Excellency in which he was created; and since this +Fall it was not possible for Mankind to be restor’d to its primitive State +by any Power whatsoever, not even by the Angels themselves; so that, for +the Remedy of our Misfortunes, there was an absolute Necessity that the +Son of God by his Almighty Efficacy should come and unite himself to our +frail Nature, to destroy the infinite Malignity of Sin, and to reconcile +God to us by shedding his Blood, as he has done for us; for which may he +be for ever glorify’d. + + * * * * * + +X. I constantly and firmly believe, that God discover’d himself to +_Moses_, that he reveal’d to him every thing that is contain’d in the Book +of _Genesis_, and that he gave him the Table of the Ten Commandments: I +believe with St. _Augustin_, that the Decalogue is the Summary of all +Laws: I believe also, as Jesus Christ himself teaches in St. _Matthew_, +Chap. xxii. Ver. 40. That _on these Two Commandments_, the Love of God, +and the Love of one’s Neighbour, _hang all the Law and the Prophets_. + + * * * * * + +XI. I believe, that ’tis an indispensable Duty to obey the Law of God; +because God himself is the Author of it, and because Jesus Christ has +confirm’d and declar’d the same by his own Mouth. I believe also, that +whosoever would be sav’d, must obey his Commandments: To think otherwise +would be Impiety. + + * * * * * + +XII. Besides the Commandments of God, I believe ’tis absolutely necessary +to believe in the Creed, as it was receiv’d by the Fathers of the Council +of _Trent_. I acknowledge that Council to be œcumenical: I receive all the +Decisions of it without Exception; and I deem them all to be orthodox, and +to be sure Rules for conducting me to my Salvation. + + * * * * * + +XIII. _I believe in God, the Father Almighty, Maker of Heaven and Earth; +and in Jesus Christ, his only Son our Lord, who was conceived by the Holy +Ghost, born of the Virgin_ Mary, _suffered under_ Pontius Pilate, _was +crucified, dead, and buried; he descended into Hell; the Third Day he rose +again from the Dead, he ascended into Heaven, and sitteth at the Right +Hand of God, the Father Almighty; from thence he shall come to judge the +Quick and the Dead. I believe in the Holy Ghost, the Holy Catholic Church, +the Communion of Saints, the Forgiveness of Sins, the Resurrection of the +Body, and the Life everlasting._ + +Having already mention’d the Reasons why I believe in God the Father, the +Son, and the Holy Ghost, I will say no more upon this Head, and proceed to +other Articles of the Creed. + + * * * * * + +XIV. In the Creed our Saviour is call’d _Lord_; for since God the Son is +everlasting, as well as God the Father, so he is Lord of all Things, as is +God the Father. Jesus Christ, as Man, is also for several Reasons call’d +Lord: First of all, because he is our Redeemer, and has deliver’d us from +our Sins; which made St. _Paul_ say in his Epistle to the _Philippians_, +Chap. ii. Ver. 8, 9, 10, 11. _And being found in Fashion as a Man, he +humbled himself, and became obedient unto Death, even the Death of the +Cross: Wherefore God also hath highly exalted him, and given him a Name +which is above every Name; that at the Name of Jesus every Knee should +bow, of things in Heaven, and Things in Earth, and Things under the Earth: +And that every Tongue should confess, that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the +Glory of God the Father._ Jesus Christ says also, speaking of himself, in +St. _Matthew_, Chap. xxviii. Ver. 18. _All Power is given unto me in +Heaven and in Earth._ In short, considering the Favours we have receiv’d +from Jesus Christ, Are we not his true Slaves? Is it not He who has +redeemed us? Is it not He that is our Lord? Ought we not to be for ever at +the Service of our Redeemer? + + * * * * * + +XV. I believe, _that he was conceiv’d of the Holy Ghost, and born of the +Virgin_ Mary. + +By these Words I confess, that when Jesus Christ, the Son of God, our only +Lord, did for our Sakes take the human Nature upon him in the Womb of the +Virgin _Mary_, he was not conceiv’d after the common manner of other Men, +but in a supernatural way; that is to say, by the Operation of the Holy +Ghost; so that the same Person being still God, as he had been from all +Eternity, became Man, tho’ he was not so before. St. _John_ says upon this +Head, Chap. i. Ver. 1. _In the Beginning was the Word, and the Word was +with God, and the Word was God._ And he adds afterwards, Ver. 14. _And the +Word was made Flesh, and dwelt among us._ + + * * * * * + +XVI. I believe, _that he was conceiv’d by the Operation of the Holy +Ghost_. By these Words I don’t understand, that the said Person alone +wrought the Mystery of the Incarnation. ’Tis true, that the Son alone +assum’d the human Nature; but then ’tis as true, that the Three Persons of +the most Holy Trinity, the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, equally +contributed to this Mystery: Every Thing which God does, is the common +Action of the Three Persons; they have all an equal Share in it, and the +one never acts without the other. The only thing which is not common to +them is, the Manner in which one Person proceeds from the other; the Son +alone is ingender’d of the Father, and the Holy Ghost proceedeth both from +the Father and the Son. Finally, I believe, that this Conception is +miraculous, and I humbly adore the Mystery of it, without presuming to +penetrate into it, the very Attempt of which would put me in Danger of +being cast away. + + * * * * * + +XVII. I believe, _that he was born of the Virgin_ Mary. + +These Words teach me, that Jesus Christ was born as a Man is, and that I +am oblig’d to honour the Virgin _Mary_ as the Mother of God, which I do +accordingly with the profoundest Respect, and with an intire Confidence, +because the Protection of the Holy Virgin is the best Protection that I +can chuse, next to Jesus Christ. + + * * * * * + +XVIII. I believe, _that suffer’d under_ Pontius Pilate, _that he was +crucified, that he died, and that he was buried_. + +The Belief of this Article is of absolute Necessity; and a Person can +never think of it too much, because ’tis as the Basis which supports the +Catholic Faith and Religion; and really when this Article is established, +all the rest is prov’d easily. For this Reason I firmly believe, that +Jesus Christ was put upon the Cross for our Salvation: I believe also, +that in the inferior Part of the Soul he felt all the Torments which he +was made to suffer, because he was truly Man: I believe also that he +suffer’d great Pains of the Mind; such Pains as forc’d him to utter these +Words in _Matt._ Chap. xxvi. Ver. 38. _My Soul is exceeding sorrowful, +even unto Death._ As to the Death of Jesus Christ, I believe, that he +actually dy’d upon the Cross; because all the Evangelists say, he there +yielded up the Ghost: Tho’ I am persuaded that his Soul was separated from +his Body, I believe also, that the Deity was still united to his Body in +the Sepulchre, and to his Soul in Hell. Jesus Christ died, to the end +that, as the Apostle says to the _Hebrews_, Chap. ii. Ver. 14, 15. _He +might destroy him that had the Power of Death, that is the Devil, and +deliver them, who, through Fear of Death, were all their Life-time subject +to Bondage._ But the Death of Jesus Christ was voluntary; he went himself +to meet Death, and he himself determin’d the Place and Time of his Death, +as is plainly prov’d by the Words of the Prophet _Isaiah_, _And the Lord +said the same Thing unto himself before he suffered_. He was offer’d up, +because he desir’d it, and our Lord says himself, speaking of his Passion, +in St. _John_, Chap. x. Ver. 17, 18. _I lay down my Life that I might take +it again: No Man taketh it from me, but I lay it down of myself. I have +Power to lay it down, and I have Power to take it again._ + + * * * * * + +XIX. When I say, that _Jesus Christ was buried_; I believe not only that +his Body was buried, but also that God himself was laid in the Sepulchre. +For since the Deity never abandon’d the Body of our Saviour, which was +laid in the Sepulchre, we are under a Necessity of owning, that God was +buried. + + * * * * * + +XX. I believe, that _Jesus Christ descended into Hell_. + +Hereby I understand, that when our Lord dy’d, his Soul descended into +Hell, and stay’d there as long as his Body remain’d in the Sepulchre. + +By the Descent into Hell, I understand, that our Lord actually descended +into those Places where the Souls are detain’d, that have not yet receiv’d +the eternal Beatitude; and thereby he has not only demonstrated, that +every thing which he had said of his Divinity was true, but that he was +also the Son of God, as he had before prov’d by Abundance of Prodigies and +Miracles. Indeed all Men who descended into those secret Places, descended +into them as Slaves, but Jesus Christ descended into them free and +victorious; he destroy’d the Power of the Devils, who exercis’d their +Tyranny, and retain’d the Souls of Men there, by reason of their Sins. +Jesus Christ being victorious, releas’d those Souls out of the Prison in +which they were languishing, as St. _Paul_ affirms, when he says to the +_Colossians_, Chap. ii. Ver. 15. _And having spoiled Principalities and +Powers, he made a Shew of them openly, triumphing over them in it._ + + * * * * * + +XXI. I believe, _that on the Third Day Jesus Christ rose again from the +Dead_: When I say, that our Lord rose again, I don’t only understand that +he came to Life again, but that he also rose again by his own inherent +Power; which is particularly correspondent with Jesus Christ, and also +proves his Divinity; the rather, because the Resurrection of the Dead is +contrary to the Order of Nature, there being no Person that has the Power +of passing from Death to Life. St. _Paul_ says upon this Head to the +_Corinthians_, 2 _Cor._ Chap. xiii. Ver. 4. _For though he was crucified +through Weakness, yet he liveth by the power of God._ + +As the Godhead of Jesus Christ was never separated from his Body, he was +able by his own Power to raise himself again, and to restore himself to +Life. _David_ had foretold this Truth, _Psalm_ xcviii. Ver. 1. _His Right +Hand and his Holy Arm hath gotten him the Victory._ Our Lord himself +confirm’d this Truth, when he said in St. _John_, Chap. x. Ver. 17, 18. _I +lay down my Life, that I might take it again_; and _I have Power to take +it again_. In another Place he says, speaking to the _Jews_, St. _John_ +Chap. ii. Ver. 19. _Destroy this Temple, and in Three Days I will raise it +up._ + +When I say, that our Lord rose again the Third Day, I don’t therefore +imagine, that he was Three intire Days in the Sepulchre; he was laid there +on the _Friday_ Night, and rose again the _Sunday_ Morning following, +which makes the Three Days. Jesus Christ plac’d this Interval between his +Death and Resurrection, to shew, that he was truly Man; and at the same +time that there might be no Doubt of his Death. I am firmly persuaded, +that ’tis absolutely necessary to believe the Mystery of the Resurrection, +which I take to be one of the most important Truths of our Religion, as +St. _Paul_ proves, who, speaking to the _Corinthians_, says in the +Fifteenth Chapter, Ver. 14, 17. _And if Christ be not risen, then is our +Preaching vain, and your Faith is also vain; for ye are yet in your Sins._ +I believe also, that the Resurrection of Jesus Christ was absolutely +necessary in the first Place to shew the Justice of God, in rewarding him +who had been set at nought; and was so dutiful, as to give up his Life. +The Apostle says to the _Philippians_, Chap. ii. Ver. 8. _And being found +in Fashion as a Man, he humbled himself, and became obedient unto Death, +even the Death of the Cross._ Secondly, To maintain and strengthen our +Hopes, which ought to be firm and constant. For since Jesus Christ rose +again, we ought likewise to hope, that we shall one Day rise again. Upon +this Subject St. _Peter_ says in his first Epistle, Chap. i. Ver. 3, 4. +_Blessed be the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ, which, according +to his abundant Mercy, hath begotten us again unto a lively Hope, by the +Resurrection of Jesus Christ from the Dead, to an Inheritance +uncorruptible and undefiled, and that fadeth not away._ + + * * * * * + +XXII. I believe, _that Jesus Christ ascended into Heaven, and sitteth at +the Right Hand of God, the Father Almighty_. + +By our Lord’s Ascension I understand, that Jesus Christ, after having +completed the Mystery of our Redemption, ascended, as Man, with Body and +Soul into Heaven, where he had been all along as God, being present in all +Places by his Deity; that he ascended to it by his own Power, and not by +any foreign Efficacy, like _Elias_, who was translated to Heaven in a +fiery Chariot. + +By these Words, _he sitteth at the Right Hand of God, the Father +Almighty_, I don’t believe, that he actually sitteth, this being one of +the figurative Expressions us’d in the Scripture: God has _nothing_ +corporeal, and by Consequence has no Right Hand, and is not seated: +Therefore when the Creed saith, that Jesus Christ sitteth on his Right +Hand, ’tis also a figurative Term, which the Scripture makes Use of to +denote the glorious State to which our Lord Jesus Christ, as Man, was +advanc’d above all other Creatures. This Expression _he sitteth_, +signifies the stable and permanent Possession of the Glory and Sovereign +Power which Jesus Christ receiv’d from his Father, who, according to the +Apostle to the _Ephesians_, Chap. i. Ver. 20, 21. _Raised him from the +Dead, and set him at his own Right Hand in the heavenly Places, far above +all Principality and Power, and Might and Dominion, and every Name that is +named, not only in this World, but also in that which is to come._ + +As to the Ascension of Jesus Christ into Heaven, I believe, that it was +absolutely necessary: ’Twas requisite that Jesus Christ should set up his +Throne in Heaven to prove, that his Kingdom was not of this World, that it +was not a transitory or an earthly Kingdom, as the _Jews_ fancied, but +that his Kingdom was spiritual. + +He also chose to ascend into Heaven, to the end that his Ascension might +raise a Desire in us to follow him, and at the same time to fulfil the +Promise that he made to his Apostles, when he told them, _John_ xvi. Ver. +7. _It is expedient for you, that I go away; for if I go not away, the +Comforter will not come unto you: But if I depart, I will send him unto +you._ Finally, Jesus Christ ascended into Heaven, to be our Advocate with +his Father; as St. _John_ says in his first Epistle, Chap. ii. Ver. 1, 2. +_My little Children, these Things write I unto you, that ye sin not. And +if any Man sin, we have an Advocate with the Father, Jesus Christ the +righteous: And he is the Propitiation for our Sins._ + +Jesus Christ ascended also into Heaven, to prepare a Place there for us, +as he had promis’d us, and in quality of our Head, to take Possession of +Glory For us, and to open for us the Gates of it, which had, ever since +the Fall of _Adam_ till that time, been shut up. + + * * * * * + +XXIII. I believe, _that Jesus Christ shall come to judge the Quick and the +Dead_, because the Holy Scripture assures me, that the Son of God is to +come twice upon Earth. The first time was, when for our Salvation he was +pleas’d to assume the human Nature; and the second will be, when he cometh +at the End of the World to judge all Mankind; when this will happen I know +not, but that it will happen, I am however very certain. Of this St. +_Matthew_ assures me, Chap. xxiv. Ver. 36. _But of that Day and Hour +knoweth no Man, no not the Angels of Heaven, but my Father only._ + +As to the Manner how we shall be judg’d; I believe, there are Two ways: +The first Judgment will be, when my Soul forsakes my Body. I shall appear +that Instant before God’s Tribunal, to give him an exact Account of every +thing that I have done, said, and thought. The second will be, when I +shall appear with all Mankind that ever had a Being in the World, to +receive the Judgment that it shall then please God to pronounce: Every one +will there appear as he has been in this Life; and this Judgment will be +the universal Judgment: This universal Judgment is absolutely necessary; +and because Men have only committed Good and Evil by the Instrumentality +of their Bodies, ’tis but just that their Bodies, as well as their Souls, +should have a Share in the Reward or Punishment due to the Good and to the +Wicked; which can only be done, when all Men rise again, and at the time +of the universal Judgment. In fine, what persuades me that there must be +an universal Judgment is, that Jesus himself assures us of it in St. +_Matthew_, and tells us of all the Signs that are to be the Forerunners of +that great Day. In like manner the _Acts_ of the Apostles also prove it to +us, Chap. i. Ver. 11. _This same Jesus which is taken up from you into +Heaven, shall so come in like manner as ye have seen him go into Heaven._ + + * * * * * + +XXIV. I believe _in the Holy Ghost_. + +My Lord, As I have already declar’d what I believe with regard to this +Article, and have nothing to add to it, I proceed to the Reasons that +oblige me to believe in the _Holy Catholic Church_. + + * * * * * + +XXV. By the Church I understand with St. _Augustin_ all the Believers in +general that are dispers’d throughout the World. There is only one Church, +but ’tis divided into the Church _Triumphant_ and the Church _Militant_. +The former is compos’d of all the Saints, and all the Blessed that are in +Paradise; and who after having triumph’d over the World, the Flesh and the +Devil, are safe in the Enjoyment of eternal Happiness, and exempt from the +Miseries of this Life. The other Church is the Assembly of all the +Faithful who are still living: This Church is call’d the Church +_Militant_, because of the continual Warfare which the Faithful have to +maintain against their cruel Enemies the World, the Flesh, and the Devil: +There are some, who, to these Two Churches, add a Third, which they call +the _Passive_ Church, because it consists of those who yet languish in the +Pains of Purgatory, and are there to remain till they are thoroughly +purified, that they may then be able to enter into the _Triumphant_ +Church, and thereby form one and the same Church. + +I exclude out of the Church Infidels, Heretics, Schismatics, and Persons +excommunicate. Infidels are no Part of the Church, because they never +enter’d into it, never understood it, and never partook of any of the +Sacraments. Heretics and Schismatics are excluded from the Church, because +they are separate from it: They are nevertheless under the Power of the +Church, which has a Right to judge, punish, and excommunicate them. +Finally, Excommunicated Persons are excluded from the Church, because the +Church herself has judg’d them, and cut them off from her Body; and she +never more admits them to her Communion without their Conversion. + +As to the Marks and Properties of the Church, I believe, that they +consist, in the first Place, in its Unity, _Canticles_ Chap. vi. Ver. 9. +_My Dove, my Undefiled, is but one._ She is conducted and govern’d by an +_Invisible_ Head, and by a _Visible_ Head: The former is Jesus Christ, +whom God the Father has appointed the Head of his whole Church. The +Visible Head is he, who, as lawful Successor of St. _Peter_, possesses the +See of the Church of _Rome_. I believe, that this Head is absolutely +necessary, as having been establish’d by Jesus Christ himself, when he +said to St. _Peter_, _thou art Peter, and upon this Rock I will build my +Church_, Matt. Chap. xvi. Ver. 18. St. _Peter_ was the first to whom the +Episcopal See was given, which he establish’d first at _Antioch_, but +afterwards translated to _Rome_, where he kept his See, as Chief of all +the Apostles; to the end that the Unity of one See might be secur’d to him +by them all, and that the other Apostles might never take it into their +Heads to assume to themselves another. A Man that should offer to erect a +See, in Prejudice of that which Jesus Christ hath established to be the +Centre of Unity, would be deem’d as a Schismatic, and as a Heretic. In +Fact, Jesus Christ, as God, gives Men a Share of his Dignities: He is the +High-priest, and he honours Men with the Dignity of the Priesthood: ’Tis +he that is the true _Peter_, and he communicates this Quality of _Peter_ +to another. Thus he makes his Servants Sharers of what is proper and +particular to himself: He establish’d St. _Peter_ to be the Pastor and +Head of all Believers, and was willing that he should have the same Power +as himself, to govern his Church. + +The other Property of the Church is its _Holiness_. St. _Peter_ assures us +of this in his first Epistle, Chap. ii. Ver. 9. _But ye are a chosen +Generation, a holy Nation._ ’Tis call’d holy, because ’tis consecrated to +the Service of God: ’Tis a Custom to call every thing that is set apart +for Divine Worship holy: This was a Custom, even under the Old Law, when +the Priests Vestments, the Levites, and the Altars were call’d holy. A +farther Proof of the Church’s Holiness is, that the Holy Spirit presides +over it, and that he govern’d it by the Ministry of the Apostles. The +Apostles were the first that receiv’d the Holy Ghost, and since their Time +such has been God’s infinite Love to his Church, the Holy Spirit has ever +remain’d with it. Therefore this very Church, which is govern’d by the +Holy Spirit, cannot be mistaken in Matters of Faith, nor even in Point of +Discipline. + + * * * * * + +XXVI. I believe the _Communion of Saints_. + +I declare, and mean by these Words, that I partake in all the Sacraments, +especially those of Baptism and the Eucharist: Baptism qualifies me for +partaking of all the Sacraments, and the Eucharist demonstrates this +Communion in a more particular manner: And indeed, tho’ all the Sacraments +unite me to God, and make me Partaker of his Grace, which they convey to +me, yet all these Attributes are more peculiar to the Eucharist. + +I also acknowledge a Communion, of which Charity is the principal, and am +united, as St. _Ambrose_ calls it, by the Bands of Love and Society, with +all that fear God. + + * * * * * + +XXVII. I believe the _Forgiveness of Sins_. + +This is a Truth which ought absolutely to be believ’d; for upon this +Occasion our Lord said to his Disciples, a little before he ascended into +Heaven, St. _Luke_ Chap, xxiv, Ver. 46, 47. _Thus it is written, and thus +it behoved Christ to suffer, and to rise from the Dead the Third Day: And +that Repentance and Remission of Sins should be preached in his Name among +all Nations, beginning at Jerusalem._ Thus Jesus Christ himself has +oblig’d us absolutely to believe the Forgiveness of Sins: The Sacrament of +Baptism remits Sins instantly; the Church has this Power also, because it +has receiv’d the Keys of Heaven, not only to remit Sins by the Sacrament +of Baptism, but also to forgive all those People their Sins who truly +repent of them, even tho’ they were to persevere in their Sins to the last +Day of their Lives: This the Holy Scripture teaches us in more Places than +one. In St. _Matthew_, Chap, xvi. Ver. 19. our Lord said to St. _Peter_, +_And I will give unto Thee the Keys of the Kingdom of Heaven; and +whatsoever thou shalt bind en Earth, shall be bound in Heaven; and +whatsoever thou shalt loose on Earth, shall be loosed in Heaven._ In +another Place Jesus Christ says also, speaking to his Apostles, _Matt._ +xviii, Ver. 18. _Whatsoever ye shall bind on Earth, shall be bound in +Heaven; and whatsoever ye shall loose on Earth, shall be loosed in +Heaven._ This induces me to believe, that I ought to use that Power which +Jesus Christ has given to his Church, of remitting Sins, as a most +salutary Remedy for the Diseases of my Soul. And I have Recourse to the +Sacrament of Penance, as the only Means in my own Power to cleanse me from +my Sins. + + * * * * * + +XXVIII. I believe the _Resurrection of the Body_, and look upon it as the +Basis on which the Hope of our Salvation is founded: This is what St. +_Paul_ says to the _Corinthians_, first Epistle, Chap. xv. Ver. 13, 14. +_But if there be no Resurrection of the Dead, then is Christ not risen. +And if Christ be not risen, then is our Preaching vain, and your Faith is +also vain._ Therefore nothing is more certain than the Resurrection of the +Body. The Old and New Testament prove this by several Examples: We read in +the Old Testament, that _Elias_ and _Elisha_ brought several of the Dead +to Life: And in the New Testament, besides the Dead who were rais’d again +to Life by Jesus Christ, there is Mention also of some that were brought +to Life again by the Apostles: Now as all those dead People were rais’d to +Life again, I firmly believe, that all Mankind must rise again: _Job_ +says, Chap. xix. Ver. 26. _That he hopes to see God in his own Flesh._ And +_Daniel_, Chap. xii. Ver. 2. says, speaking of the Dead, _And many of them +that sleep in the Dust of the Earth shall awake, some to everlasting +Life, and some to Shame, and everlasting Contempt._ + +There are divers other Passages in the New Testament, which prove the +Resurrection of the Dead; particularly that Passage in St. _Matthew_, +Chap. xxii. where we have an Account of the Dispute which Jesus Christ had +with the _Sadducees_; those Parts of the Gospel which mention the last +Judgment, and several Passages in the Epistles of St. Paul to the +_Corinthians_ and the _Thessalonians_. In the first Epistle to the +_Corinthians_, Chap. xv. Ver. 42. ’tis said, _So also is the Resurrection +of the Dead; it is sown in Corruption, it is raised in Incorruption_. + + * * * * * + +XXIX. I believe _the Life everlasting._ + +By the Life everlasting, I mean eternal Happiness: ’Tis so call’d, in the +first Place, that it may not be imagin’d to consist in Things temporal, or +the perishable Goods of this World; and then ’tis to satisfy us, that when +we are once in Possession of this true Happiness, we can never lose it. I +am of Opinion also, that ’tis not possible for Words to express the Nature +of this Happiness to Perfection; for indeed, tho’ the Holy Scripture gives +it several Names, such as _the Kingdom of God_, _the new Jerusalem_, _the +Mansions or Habitations of the everlasting Father_; yet none of these +Expressions is strong enough to give us an Idea of its Excellency and +Extensiveness: The Fruition of God will undoubtedly be our greatest +Happiness: Jesus Christ says the same thing, speaking to God his Father, +St. _John_ Chap. xvii. Ver. 3. _And this is Life eternal, that they might +know Thee the only true God, and Jesus Christ whom thou hast sent._ St. +_John_ seems to explain these Words in his first Epistle, when he says, +Chap. iii. Ver. 2. _Beloved, now are we the Sons of God, and it doth not +yet appear what we shall be; but we know, that when he shall appear we +shall be like him; for we shall see him as he is._ + + * * * * * + +XXX. I receive and believe _the Holy Sacraments of the Church_. Of these I +believe that there are Seven; and I look upon them as Things that were +instituted for Signs to us of other Things, because they discover to us +the Disposition of the Heart, by what passes externally: The Holy +Scripture tells us very clearly, that they must be look’d upon as Symbols: +The Apostle says, speaking of Circumcision, which had been a Sacrament +under the Old Law, and which was a Command laid upon _Abraham_, _Romans_ +Chap. iv. Ver. 11. _And he received the Sign of Circumcision, a Seal of +the Righteousness of the Faith._ And in another Place the same Apostle +assures us, _Rom._ vi. 3. that _So many of us as were baptized into Jesus +Christ, were baptized into his Death_. + +Our Lord Jesus Christ instituted the Seven Sacraments, not only to +signify, but also to produce and operate what they signify. + +The Sacraments are Symbols of the Grace of God, who sanctifies our Souls, +and gives them all the Christian Virtues: The first of all these +Sacraments is Baptism, which qualifies us to be Partakers of all the +others; and ’twas instituted like all the other Sacraments by our Lord +Jesus Christ: ’Tis impossible to be a Christian, or to hope for Life +everlasting, without being baptiz’d. + +In St. _John_, Chap. iii. Ver. 5. Jesus said, _Except a Man be born of +Water and the Spirit, he cannot enter into the Kingdom of God._ This +relates to Infants as well as to adult Persons, because Infants having +sinned in _Adam_, they are under an absolute Necessity of receiving the +Grace and Righteousness of Jesus Christ to reign in eternal Life. Baptism +is a Sacrament which is receiv’d but once: _One Lord, one Faith, one +Baptism_, says the Apostle to the _Ephesians_, Chap. iv. Ver. 5. because, +as Jesus Christ cannot die a second time, so we cannot die a second time +to Sin by Baptism. + +As to the Sacrament of _Confirmation_, it was likewise instituted by our +Lord Jesus Christ: I think that People ought to be very cautious of +neglecting a Sacrament so holy, and which is a Means that God employs to +make us Partakers of so many of his Graces. As, by Baptism, we become the +Soldiers of Jesus Christ, by the Sacrament of Confirmation we receive Arms +to combat our Enemies. By Baptism the Holy Spirit gives us the Fullness of +Grace to recover Innocence, and by Confirmation he gives us Grace to +acquire the Perfection of Righteousness. By Baptism we are born again to +Newness of Life, and Confirmation gives us Strength to fight the good +Fight. By Baptism we are wash’d and purify’d, and by Confirmation we are +strengthen’d. Regeneration in a time of Tranquillity saves of its own +Accord such as receive Baptism, and Confirmation puts Weapons into their +Hands, and makes them ready for the Battle. In fine, I believe, that all +Catholics ought to take all possible Care to receive this Sacrament, +because Jesus Christ was pleas’d, that his Apostles should receive it; +which was the Case, according to St. _Luke_, when the Holy Ghost descended +upon them in so miraculous a manner at the Feast of _Pentecost_. ’Tis +said in the _Acts_ of the Apostles, Chap. ii. Ver. 2. _And suddenly there +came a Sound from Heaven, as of a rushing mighty Wind, and it filled all +the House where they were sitting, and they were all filled with the Holy +Ghost._ As we are given to understand by these Words, that all the +Disciples who were assembled in that House, which was the Figure of the +Church, receiv’d the Holy Ghost, so all that are in the Church are under a +Necessity of receiving the Sacrament of Confirmation, which is prov’d by +the Descent of the Holy Spirit upon the Feast of _Pentecost_. Finally, I +believe, that by this Sacrament God confirms in us what he begun with +Baptism, and that by Confirmation he makes us perfect Christians. + + * * * * * + +XXXI. I believe, that the Holy Sacrament of the _Eucharist_ is a true +Sacrament, and I look upon it as one of the greatest Mysteries of Faith. +And what gives me the more Veneration for it is, that the Heretics +themselves are persuaded, that it was instituted by our Lord Jesus Christ. +I believe with St. _Augustin_ and the whole Church, that this Sacrament +consists of Two Things, _viz._ The visible Elements of Bread and Wine, and +the invisible Flesh and Blood of our Lord Jesus Christ. For this Reason I +adore the Sacrament of the Eucharist. By this _Sacrament_ I understand the +Body and Blood of our Lord. I suspend all my Senses, I wean my Mind from +them, and believe with Submission, that the Holy Eucharist is really the +Body of our Lord, that is to say, the very same Body which was born of the +Virgin _Mary_, and which sitteth at the Right Hand of the Father +everlasting. I believe, there remaineth nothing of the Substance of Bread +and Wine, which I take intirely upon the Authority of our Lord Jesus +Christ, who said, _Matt._ xxvi. 26, 28. _This is my Body, this is my +Blood._ St. _Paul_ confirms me in this Sentiment, when, after having +mention’d the Consecration of the Bread and Wine by Jesus Christ, he said +to the _Corinthians_, I Ep. Chap. xi. Ver. 28, 29. _Let a Man examine +himself, and so let him eat of that Bread, and drink of that Cup: For he +that eateth and drinketh unworthily, eateth and drinketh Damnation to +himself, not discerning the Lord’s Body._ If this Sacrament was only the +Memorial and Sign of the Passion of Jesus Christ, as the Heretics will +have it to be, I don’t think that St. _Paul_ would have us’d such earnest +Expressions to exhort Believers to examine themselves before they +approached to this Sacrament. The same Apostle St. _Paul_ assures us also +of the real Presence of the Body of Jesus Christ in the Eucharist, when he +says in his first Epistle to the _Corinthians_, Chap. x. Ver. 16. _The Cup +of Blessing which we bless, is it not the Communion of the Blood of +Christ? The Bread which we break, is it not the Communion of the Body of +Christ?_ But besides these Words of the Apostle, Jesus Christ says in St. +_John_, Chap. vi. Ver. 51. _The Bread that I will give is my Flesh, which +I will give for the Life of the World_: And a little after in Ver. 53. he +adds, _Except ye eat the Flesh of the Son of Man, and drink his Blood, ye +have no Life in you. For_, says he again, Ver. 55. _my Flesh is Meat +indeed, and my Blood is Drink indeed_. + +Besides all these Passages of holy Writ, which are a Proof to me of the +real Presence of our Lord in the Eucharist, the Testimony of all the holy +Fathers ever since the Church had a Beginning, who have all unanimously +believ’d the real Presence of the Body of Jesus Christ in the Eucharist, +farther confirms me in this Opinion. In fine, the real Presence is what +the Church believes, which is enough for me, who acknowledge her Decisions +to be infallible. But the Protestants will object to me; If, after the +Consecration of the Eucharist, ’tis really chang’d into our Lord’s Body, +how comes it that you still call it Bread? To this I answer, That ’tis +because the Eucharist still preserves the Species and the Appearances of +Bread, and retains the Property of nourishing the Body, which is one +Quality of Bread. The Holy Scripture itself is likewise accustom’d to give +Names to Things, according to their outward Appearance. ’Tis said in +_Genesis_, that Three Men appeared to _Abraham_, tho’ in Fact they were +Three Angels: And in the _Acts_ of the Apostles, those Angels that +appear’d to the Apostles after the Resurrection of Jesus Christ are call’d +Men. + +Being therefore convinc’d of the real Presence of our Lord’s Body in the +most holy Eucharist, I undoubtedly believe, that I ought to worship it: +This I am commanded to do by the holy Council of _Trent_, Session XIII. +Canon 5. where, speaking of the Eucharist, it says, that it ought to be +ador’d with the Worship due to God. + +The Wisemen worshipp’d Jesus Christ when he came into the World in the +Stable; and the holy Writ assures us, that he was worshipp’d by the +Apostles in _Galilee_. Why then shan’t we worship him now in the +Eucharist, since we are persuaded, that he really exists there? That’s the +Doctrine which St. _Austin_ taught us upon the xcviiith Psalm, _Nemo illam +carnem manducet, nisi prius adoraverit, et non solum non peccamus_ +_adorando, sed peccamus non adorando_, i. e. Let none eat of that Flesh, +till he has first ador’d it; for we not only do not sin by worshipping it, +but we sin by not worshipping it. + +As to the manner of communicating, I believe, ’tis sufficient to receive +the Communion in one Kind: First of all, because the Church has so thought +fit, and had great Reasons for it: Secondly, tho’ our Lord Jesus Christ, +as the Council of _Trent_ says, instituted this august Sacrament at the +Supper under the Species of Bread and Wine, and gave it to his Apostles in +both those Kinds, it does not from thence follow, that he establish’d it +for a Law to distribute the holy Mysteries to all the Believers in both +Kinds: For he himself often speaks but of one Kind, as when he says in St. +_John_, Chap. vi. Ver. 51. _If any Man eat of this Bread, he shall live +for ever; and the Bread which I will give is my Flesh, which I will give +for the Life of the World:_ And Ver. 58. _He that eateth of this Bread +shall live for ever._ + +I believe, that the holy Eucharist was instituted by our Lord Jesus Christ +for Two Reasons: First of all, that it might serve as Nourishment for our +Souls, for the Preservation of its spiritual Life; and in the second +Place, that the Church might always have a Sacrifice to offer to God for +the Forgiveness of our Sins: For as we offend God so often, and as our +Sins incense him against us, the Church offers up the Sacrifice of the +Eucharist, to engage God the Father to suspend the just Severity of his +Wrath and Vengeance, and to obtain his Mercy. + +The Paschal Lamb, which the _Israelites_ both offer’d up, and ate as a +Sacrifice, and as a Sacrament, was the Type of the Eucharist. Our Lord +could not give us a greater Token of the Love which he bore to us, than +to leave us this visible Sacrifice, which is a Renovation of that bloody +Sacrifice, which he offered himself to his Father upon the Cross, that we +might honour his Memory to the End of all Ages. + +By the Sacrifice of the Eucharist, I understand the holy Mass; and as the +Sacrament of the Eucharist is an Action meritorious for us, and procures +us great Advantages when we receive it, I believe, that I merit by the +holy Sacrifice of the Mass, and that it is my Satisfaction to God for my +Sins: I believe, that this Sacrifice is the very same which was offer’d +upon the Cross: I believe, that ’tis the same Victim, that is to say, our +Lord Jesus Christ, who once offer’d himself up on the Tree of the Cross: +And in Fact the Victim, which offer’d itself up in a bloody manner, and +that which offers itself in an unbloody manner, is the same; there are not +Two Victims. And this Sacrifice is renew’d every Day in the Eucharist, +according to the Command which God gave us, when he said to us, _This do +in Remembrance of Me_, Luke xxii. Ver. 19. I believe, that none but Jesus +Christ is Priest in this Sacrifice: The Ministers, who consecrate the Body +and Blood of our Lord, do not offer that Sacrifice themselves, but supply +the Place of Jesus Christ himself: This is evident from the Words of the +Consecration; the Priest does not say, _This is the Body of Jesus Christ_, +but _This is my Body_; and by Consequence he says so, because he is in the +Place of Jesus Christ, and because, by the Virtue of those Words, he +changes the Substance of the Bread and Wine into that of the Body and +Blood of Jesus Christ: Therefore the Mass is not only a Sacrifice of +Praise and Thanksgiving, or a mere Commemoration of the Sacrifice which +was completed upon the Tree of the Cross; but I also believe, that ’tis an +effectual Sacrifice, which reconciles me to God, and gains me his Favour. +And if we offer this holy Victim with a pure Heart, a lively Faith, and +have a deep Sorrow for our Sins, I doubt not but God will shew us Mercy, +and that we shall obtain the Assistance of his divine Grace whenever we +need it: Nay, I am persuaded, that ’tis in a manner impossible, that, for +the Sake of this sacred Victim, God should not grant us the Grace of +Repentance, and the Remission of our Sins. + +By Consequence the holy Sacrifice of the Mass is not only useful both to +him that offers it, and to him that really partakes of it, but I also +believe it to be advantageous to all the Faithful in general, both to the +Living, and to those who die in the Grace of God, before they are purify’d +from the Spots of their Sins. According to the constant Tradition of the +Apostles, the holy Sacrifice of the Mass may be offer’d up for those +Believers who die in the Grace of God before they are intirely cleans’d +from their Faults; and ’tis likewise offer’d up to remove Afflictions and +public Calamities, and to atone for the Sins of the Living, and the Pains +which they have deserv’d. From hence I conclude, that the Sacrifice of the +Mass is offer’d particularly for the Benefit and Advantage of all the +Faithful. + + * * * * * + +XXXII. I admit and receive _Penance_ for the Fourth Sacrament: It was +own’d by the Church, and instituted as such by our Lord Jesus Christ, to +the end that there might be no room to doubt of the Remission of Sins, +which God promis’d by those Words of _Ezekiel_, _If the Wicked +repenteth, he shall live for ever._ I believe, that Jesus Christ +initiated this Sacrament, that it might serve as a Canal to convey his +precious Blood to us for the effacing of the Sins which we have committed +after Baptism; and to the end that we might be intirely persuaded, that +’tis to Jesus Christ alone we are beholden for the Grace of our +Reconciliation with God. + +I believe Penance to be a Sacrament in the same manner as Baptism is one: +Baptism cancels all Sins, and particularly Original Sin; and for the same +Reason Penance, which obliterates all Sins either in Thought or in Deed, +that were committed after Baptism, must be truly and properly a Sacrament. +Besides, that which is perform’d externally by the Penitent and the +Priest, shews the internal Operation in the Soul of the Penitent. ’Tis +absolutely necessary to believe, that Penance is a Sacrament, because it +contains whatever is essential to a Sacrament: ’Tis the Sign of a holy +Thing; for on the one hand the Penitent expresses fully by his Words and +Actions, that he departs from the Uncleanness of his Sins, and, on the +other Hand, the Priest, by conferring this Sacrament, shews the Remission +of Sins, which God in his Goodness grants to the Penitent: I am convinced +of this Truth, by what Jesus Christ said to St. _Peter_ and the Apostles, +_Matt._ xvi. Ver. 19. _And I will give unto Thee the Keys of the Kingdom +of Heaven: And whatsoever thou shalt bind on Earth, shall be bound in +Heaven; and whatsoever thou shalt loose on Earth, shall be loosed in +Heaven._ These Words leave me no room to doubt of the Forgiveness of Sins: +Therefore the Absolution which the Priest pronounces, shews the Remission +of Sins, and ’tis Absolution which operates it in the Soul of the +Penitent. + +The Sacrament of Penance differs from the other Sacraments, in regard that +the Matter of the other Sacraments consists of something natural or +artificial, whereas the Three Acts of the Penitent, Contrition, Confession +and Satisfaction are, as it were, the Matter of the Sacrament of Penance: +These Acts may also be call’d the Parts of this Sacrament: God absolutely +requires them of the Penitent, and they are indeed absolutely necessary to +make the Sacrament of Penance intire, and that the Penitent may obtain the +intire and perfect Remission of his Sins. And when I say, that these Acts +are, as it were, the Matter of Penance, ’tis not that I think they are not +the real Matter of it, but to shew, that I don’t think that they are of +the Nature of the Matter of the other Sacraments: For the Matter of the +other Sacraments is altogether external, with regard to the Person who +receives them, as the Water in Baptism, and the Chrism in Confirmation. I +look upon Confession, as a Part that is absolutely necessary in the +Sacrament of Penance. + +Tho’ I believe, that perfect Contrition cancels all Sins, yet, as ’tis +absolutely necessary, that for producing this Effect it should proceed +from a Love purely filial and disinterested towards God, that it should be +lively, strong and fervent, and that the Sorrow which produces it in the +Soul, may be proportionable to the Heinousness of the Sins committed; and +as there are few Persons, whose Sorrow can attain to that Pitch, and by +Consequence there would be few that could by this means hope to obtain the +Pardon of their Sins; it was therefore necessary, that God, who is +infinitely good, and infinitely merciful, should provide for our Salvation +by giving us a more easy Method; and this he has done by granting to his +Church the Keys of the Kingdom of Heaven: Therefore, according to the +Doctrine of the Council of _Trent_, I look upon it as a certain Truth, +that every Man who performs an Act of Contrition, which necessarily +includes a Resolution not to offend God any more for the future, obtains, +by virtue of the Keys which the Church has receiv’d, Pardon and Remission +of his Sins, after he has confessed them to a Priest: And I believe, that +he obtains such Remission of his Sins, even tho’ his Sorrow be not of that +Degree as to be able of itself to procure him such Pardon. + +I receive and admit of the Doctrine of the Holy Fathers, who all +unanimously teach, that Heaven is open’d to us purely by the Keys of the +Church. + +I believe, that our Lord Jesus Christ instituted Confession, and that his +Institution of it was merely owing to his Goodness and Mercy, when the +Apostles being assembled all together after his Resurrection, he breathed +on them, and said, _John_ xx. Ver. 22, 23. _Receive ye the Holy Ghost; +whosesoever Sins ye remit, they are remitted unto them; and whosesoever +Sins ye retain, they are retained._ + +’Tis therefore evident, that our Lord granted to the Priests the Power of +retaining and remitting Sins, and that at the same time he made them the +Judges: ’Tis for this Reason that we ought to conceal nothing from them, +and we are oblig’d to accuse ourselves of every Circumstance of our Sins, +that they may be able to judge us, and prescribe a Penance to us +proportionable to our Crimes. I do not only believe, that Jesus Christ +instituted Confession, but I believe also, that he commanded us the Use of +it as necessary; and a Sinner, who has committed a mortal Sin, cannot +recover the Life of his Soul but by this Means. The Saviour of the World +clearly demonstrated this Truth to us, when he express’d the Power of +administring this Sacrament by the Keys of the Kingdom of Heaven; and as +’tis impossible to enter into a Place that is shut up, but by means of the +Person who has the Keys of it, in like manner nobody can enter into Heaven +after he has caus’d himself to be shut out of it by Sin, unless the +Priest, to whom our Lord has given the Custody of the Keys, open the Gates +of it: Those Cases of Necessity must however be excepted, where perfect +Contrition is sufficient without Confession: If it were otherwise, our +Lord needed not to have said, _Whatsoever ye shall loose on Earth, it +shall be loosed in Heaven_; nor would it have been necessary for Jesus +Christ to have given the Keys of Heaven to the Church. + +Finally, I believe Satisfaction to be absolutely necessary, and I take it +to be of Two Sorts: The first is that, whereby we intirely satisfy God +according to the utmost Severity of his supreme Justice for our Sins, of +what Quality soever they be; and the Satisfaction by which we at last +reconcile ourselves to God. ’Tis to our Lord Jesus Christ alone that we +are oblig’d for this Satisfaction; ’tis he that has merited it for us by +making full Satisfaction to God with the Blood which he shed upon the +Cross, to redeem us from our Sins. There was no created Being, that could +possibly discharge so great a Debt; but as St. _John_ says, 1 Ep. Chap. +ii. Ver. 2. _He is the Propitiation for our Sins, and not for ours only,_ +_but also for the Sins of the whole World._ This Satisfaction, which flows +from the Merits of Jesus Christ, is full and intire, and proportionable to +the Enormity of all the Sins of Mankind. + +I also receive and allow of a second Sort of Satisfaction, call’d +Canonical, which is accomplish’d in a certain Space of Time prescrib’d by +the Canons, and gives Power to the Priests to impose a Penance upon the +Penitents, before they absolve them from their Sins, and this is that +which worketh the Satisfaction. + +Finally, I am persuaded, that Satisfaction is a sort of Remedy, which +wipes out all the Stains which our Souls have contracted by the Foulness +of Sin. By means of this Satisfaction we suffer the Punishment inflicted +on us during a certain time for the Expiation of our Sins. + +Upon the Whole I infer, that ’tis absolutely necessary that we should be +excited to the Practice of this Satisfaction; for tho’ God remits to us in +Penance the Guilt of Sin, and the Pains of everlasting Death, which are +due to it, he does not therefore always remit to us the temporal +Punishments which are due to Sin: This appears from several Instances in +sacred Writ, as the Third Chapter of _Genesis_; the Twelfth and Twentieth +Chapters of _Numbers_, and several other Passages, and especially in that +which speaks of _David_: For tho’ the Prophet _Nathan_ told him, that God +had forgiven him his Sin, and assur’d him that he should not die, yet +_David_ voluntarily impos’d great Mortifications upon himself, and +implor’d the Mercy of God in these Terms, _Psalm_ li. Vcr. 2, 3. _Wash me +throughly from mine Iniquity, and cleanse me from my Sin: For I +acknowledge my Transgressions, and my Sin is ever before me._ Tho’ _David_ +had perform’d that Act of Penance, tho’ he had so earnestly begg’d for +the Pardon of his Sin, yet God punish’d him by the Death of that Son, who +was the Fruit of his Adultery, by the Rebellion of his Son _Absalom_, whom +he lov’d tenderly, and by several other Afflictions, which he had +threaten’d him with before. As to the Reason, why all the Punishments for +Sin are not remitted to us by the Sacrament of Penance, as well as that of +Baptism, I think it but Justice, as the Council of _Trent_ says, that +they, who before Baptism have sinn’d thro’ Ignorance, should be pardon’d +after one manner; and that they should be pardon’d after another manner, +who having been once delivered from the Captivity of the Devil and Sin, +and having also receiv’d the Holy Spirit, have not fear’d to grieve it. +’Tis owing to the Goodness of God that he does not suffer our Sins to be +remitted without the making a Satisfaction for them, to the end that we +might not imagine them to be less than they are, and that we might not +fall into greater Disorders by an injurious Contempt of the Holy Spirit, +and thereby _heap up Wrath against the Day of Wrath_. For really the +Penalties of Satisfaction are as a Bridle to check us in our Sins; they +are sure Marks of our Sorrow for having offended God; and finally, ’tis by +those Punishments that we make Satisfaction to the Church our Mother, +which we have highly offended by our Sins; for, as St. _Augustin_ says, +tho’ God does not reject a contrite and an humble Heart, yet, as the +Sorrow we have conceiv’d in our Hearts for having offended God, can only +be discover’d by Words and other external Signs, the Holy Fathers were in +the Right to fix certain Times for Penance, to the end that we might make +Satisfaction to the Church, in whose Bosom our Sins were committed. + + * * * * * + +XXXIII. I thank God, for that after he had given me Entrance into the true +Life by the Sacrament of Baptism, he also instituted the Sacrament of +_Extreme Unction_, for my more easy Passage into Heaven, after my +Departure from this Life. I believe, that our Lord Jesus Christ instituted +the Sacrament of extreme Unction, when he sent out his Disciples two and +two before him into the Towns and Villages. ’Tis said, that they preach’d +to the People, that they exhorted them to Repentance, that they cast out +many Devils, and anointed several that were sick with Oyl, and cur’d them +all. ’Twas our Lord that commanded them to perform this Unction, which he +instituted rather for the Salvation of the Soul than for the Health of the +Body, and he gave a Virtue to it which was altogether divine and +supernatural: Several great Saints so evidently assure us of this Truth, +that I have no room to doubt, but Extreme Unction is one of the Seven +Sacraments of the Church, and that ’twas instituted for the Relief of the +Sick when they are at the Point of Death: This is observable in the +Epistle of St. _James_, Chap. v, Ver. 14, 15. _Is any sick among you? Let +him call for the Elders of the Church, and let them pray aver him, +anointing him with Oyl in the Name of the Lord: And the Prayer of Faith +shall save the Sick, and the Lord shall raise him up; and if he have +committed Sins, they shall be forgiven him._ The Apostle, by telling us +that Sins are forgiven by this Unction, gives us also to understand at the +same time, that it is a true Sacrament: and this has been the Decision of +several Councils, but chiefly that of _Trent_. + + * * * * * + +XXXIV. I esteem and honour the Sacrament of the _Ordination_, as the Sixth +Sacrament of the Church, and I believe it to be absolutely necessary, +because the other Sacraments intirely depend upon it: For, were it not for +the Sacrament of Ordination, some of the Sacraments could not be +administer’d, and others would also be depriv’d of all the solemn +Ceremonies, and of all religious Worship. I believe therefore, that +Ordination is one of the most eminent Sacraments: It renders the Priests +and Bishops Interpreters of God’s Will; it enables them to represent God +upon Earth, and to operate in Quality of his Substitutes; and for this +Reason the Holy Scripture calls them Angels, and even Gods. What can there +be more miraculous than the Power which this Sacrament gives to the +Priests to consecrate the Elements, to offer the Body and Blood of our +Lord, and to forgive Sins? Have we not Cause to wonder, that the Apostles +and Disciples were sent over all the World in the same manner as Jesus +Christ was sent by his Father? The Priests were also sent abroad, _for the +perfecting of the Saints, for the Work of the Ministry, and for the +edifying of the Body of Christ_, _Ephes._ iv. Ver. 12. + +I believe, that no Man can or ought to assume to himself the Character of +Bishop or Priest, unless he has been call’d by the lawful Ministers of the +Church, that is to say, by the Bishops. The Apostle, speaking to the +_Hebrews_, says, _No Man taketh this Honour unto himself_, Chap. v. Ver. +4. And God himself says in _Jeremiah_, Chap. xxiii. Ver. 21. _I have not +sent these Prophets, yet they ran._ + +As to the Power of Ordination, I believe, it extends to the Eucharist, and +every thing that can relate to it: This is a Truth establish’d by sundry +Passages of Holy Scripture, and especially by that Saying of our Lord to +his Disciples, _John_ xx. Ver. 21, 22, 23. _As my Father hath sent me, +even so send I you; receive ye the Holy Ghost. Whosesoever Sins ye remit, +they are remitted unto them; and whosesoever Sins ye retain, they are +retained._ And in St. _Matthew_, Chap. xviii. Ver. 18. he also says, +_Verily I say unto you, whatsoever you shall bind on Earth, shall be bound +in Heaven; and whatsoever ye shall loose on Earth, shall be loosed in +Heaven_. + + * * * * * + +XXXV. I believe, that _Marriage_ is the Seventh Sacrament of the Church. + +It cannot be deny’d, that _Marriage_ was instituted by God himself; ’tis +so very evident from _Genesis_, Chap. i. Ver. 27, 28. _Male and Female +created he them, and the Lord blessed them, and said unto them, Be +fruitful, and multiply_: And in another Place, _viz._ Gen. ii. Ver. 18. he +said, _It is not good that the Man should be alone, I will make him an +Help meet for him_. Jesus Christ in the New Testament ascribes the +Institution of Marriage to God his Father in _Matt._ xix. and _Mark_ x. + +I believe, that Marriage is a Sacrament not to be dissolv’d: _What God +hath joined together, let no Man put asunder_, Matt. xix. Ver. 6. These +are the very Words too of the Council of _Trent_. There are certain Cases +however, wherein the Pope, as the Vicar of Jesus Christ, and Successor of +St. _Peter_, may break and annul the Marriage. + +What farther convinces me that Marriage is a Sacrament, is that Passage of +the Apostle St. _Paul_ to the _Ephesians_, Chap. v. Ver. 28 to 32. _So +ought Men to love their Wives as their own Bodies: He that loveth his +Wife, loveth himself; For no Man ever yet hated his own Flesh, but +nourisheth and cherisheth it, even as the Lord the Church: For we are +Members of his Body, of his Flesh, and his Bones. For this Cause shall a +Man leave his Father and Mother, and shall be joined unto his Wife, and +they two shall be one Flesh. This is a great Mystery; but I speak +concerning Christ and the Church._ Since St. _Paul_ calls Marriage a +Sacrament, I see no Reason why I should not regard it as such; nor do I +know why the Heretics will not allow it to be a Sacrament. + +Thus, my Lord, have I given you my Sentiments on the principal Articles of +Religion: All that remains for me now is, to treat of Purgatory, the +Invocation and the Worship of the Saints, Prayers for the Dead, and the +Respect due to the visible Head of the Church. In giving your Lordship an +Account of my Opinion in these Articles, I shall take Care, my Lord, to be +as brief as possible, for fear you should think me tedious. + + * * * * * + +XXXVI. By _Purgatory_, I mean a Place where the Souls of the Faithful who +die in Grace are detain’d to suffer, till they are intirely purify’d from +what hinders their enjoying celestial Light, _into which any Thing that +defileth, can in no wise enter_, Rev. xxi. Ver. 27. The Church was always +of this Opinion, and St. _Justin Martyr_ own’d, that the Souls of +Believers were in extreme Necessity of being reliev’d by the Prayers of +the Living: That Purgatory was an Article of Faith was what Pope _Eugene_ +declar’d, or rather he renew’d what had been all along believ’d by the +Church. The Protestants are as much in the Wrong to say, that Purgatory is +a new Invention of the Priests, as when they give the same Name to several +other Articles of Faith that were always believ’d, tho’ they have been +renew’d by several Councils, as often as the Church saw there was +Occasion: For Instance, in the Fourth Century, in the Time of that Heretic +_Arius_, the Council of _Nice_ declar’d, that the Son of God was of the +same Essence as the Father; yet this was a Truth which the Church had +always believ’d. St. _Augustin_, to whose Opinions even the Heretics pay a +Respect, assures me, that in his Time ’twas the Custom throughout the +whole Church, and what had been establish’d by Tradition, to pray for the +Dead, to the end that God might deal mercifully with them. These Prayers +could only be for the Souls of Believers that were in Purgatory; for the +Blessed, instead of having any Need of our Prayers, do themselves pray for +us: And as to the Reprobate, Prayers can be of no Service to them; they +are damn’d to all Eternity, and never can be releas’d out of their Pains: +From hence I infer, that the Church has ever admitted a Third Place, which +is Purgatory. Several ancient Councils assure me of this Truth, and +particularly the Council of _Carthage_, Chap. XXIX. and since that the +Holy Council of _Trent_. I also take that Passage in St. _John’s +Revelations_, Chap. v. Ver. 13. to be a favourable Explanation of my +Sentiments on the Subject of Purgatory; _And every Creature which is in +Heaven, and on the Earth, and under the Earth, and such as are in the +Sea, and all that are in them, heard I, saying, Blessing and Honour, and +Glory and Power be unto him that sitteth upon the Throne, and unto the +Lamb for ever and ever._ I cannot think these Words can be apply’d either +to Devils, or to the Reprobate; they must necessarily refer to the Souls +suffering in Purgatory; these the Apostle meant by Creatures that are +_under the Earth_, because ’tis certain, that the Devils and the Reprobate +do not praise God. + +Now, admitting it for a certain Truth, that there is a Purgatory, I +believe, without making any Doubt of it, that we ought to pray for the +Dead, and for the Deliverance of suffering Souls, because they are a Part +of the Church, and a Part the more to be regarded, since, tho’ they +suffer, they are sure one Day of enjoying everlasting Felicity. Besides, +those Souls that are deliver’d by my Prayers, and by the Sacrifices +offer’d up for them, do afterwards become my Friends with God. But tho’ +these Reasons were not sufficient, the Church prays for the Dead, and +that’s enough for me. + +St. _Austin_ and several of the Fathers of the Church assure me, that the +Custom of Praying for the Dead came to them by Tradition from the very +Time of the Apostles: And the Holy Scripture informs us, that this Custom +was formerly establish’d in the Old Testament, which is clearly prov’d by +that Passage in the _Maccabees_, Chap. xii. Ver. 43. _And when he had made +a Gathering throughout the Company to the Sum of Two thousand Drachms of +Silver, he sent it to Jerusalem to offer a Sin-Offering, doing therein +very well and honestly, in that he was mindful of the Resurrection_: And +in the same Chapter, Ver. 45. _It is a holy and good Thought to pray for +the Dead, that they may be delivered from Sin._----Methinks these Passages +plainly prove, that the _Jews_, of whom the true Church consisted before +the Coming of our Lord, pray’d and sacrific’d for the Dead. + +I believe therefore, that all manner of Persons may and ought to pray for +the Dead: But the Sacrifice of the Holy Mass can only be celebrated by the +Priests: and the Mass is profitable to him that says it, to the Person +that causes it to be said, and to the Soul for whom it is said. + + * * * * * + +XXXVII. I firmly believe, that the _Invocation of the Saints_ is very +useful to us for our Salvation, and that ’tis not contrary to the Commands +of God, as the Heretics affirm. For the Worship of God is nothing more +than honouring God in his Saints, just as (if I may be permitted the +Comparison) I honour my King by honouring his Ministers. Would God, who +has commanded us to honour our Parents, Persons advanc’d in Years, our +Governors and Superiors, forbid us to honour the Saints and Angels, who +are his Ministers, and by Consequence our Superiors? + +The Heretics, who so loudly condemn the _Invocation of the Saints_, and +treat it as Idolatry, do nevertheless pray every Day in their Temples and +particular Meetings, that it may please God to order their Guardian Angel +to guide and preserve them. Now, if they grant, that an Angel is their +Protector, can they, without Ingratitude, refuse Honour to their +Benefactor? I believe with the Church, that the Angels and Saints preserve +us, and deliver us every Day from several great Dangers both of Soul and +Body. Charity engages them to pray for us, and to offer up our Prayers +and Tears to the Lord: They watch continually over us, and guard us +without Intermission. For this Reason Jesus Christ recommends to his +Disciples, _Matt._ xviii. Ver. 10. _Take heed that ye despise not one of +these little ones; for I say unto you, that in Heaven their Angels do +always behold the Face of my Father which is in Heaven._ + +The Invocation of Saints was a Practice even in the Old Testament Time: +When _Jacob_ gave his Blessing to his Sons, _Gen._ xlviii. Ver. 16. he +said these Words, _The Angel, which redeemed me from all Evil, bless the +Lads; and let my Name be named on them, and the Name of my Fathers Abraham +and Isaac, and let them grow into a Multitude in the midst of the Earth._ +What can be a better Proof of the Invocation of the Angels, and the Holy +Patriarchs? The Scripture gives us another Proof of it in 1 _Sam._ vii. +Ver. 8. where the Children of _Israel_ said to _Samuel_, _Cease not to cry +unto the Lord our God for us, that he will save us out of the Hand of the +Philistines._ From thence I infer, that by honouring the Saints who are +dead in the Lord, by calling upon them, by worshipping their sacred +Relics, we do in no wise rob God of any Part of his Glory; on the +contrary, I believe, we augment it. The Honour, which we pay to the +Saints, strengthens our Hope, renders it more lively, more vehement, and +creates a greater Desire in us to tread in their Steps. + +Jesus Christ himself was persuaded, that in his State, as Man, the +Protection of the Angels was able to deliver him out of the Hand of the +_Jews_; and of this he gave Demonstration, when he commanded St. _Peter_ +to put up his Sword again into his Place, because, said he, _Matt._ xxvi. +Ver. 53. _Thinkest thou that I cannot now pray to my Father, and he shall +presently give me more than Twelve Legions of Angels?_ St. _Augustin_, in +the Eighth Book of _The City of God_, Chap. xvii. says, _Summa Religionis +est imitari quem colis_, i. e. _The Sum and Substance of Religion is, to +imitate the Being you worship._ From hence I infer, that we ought to +imitate the Saints, to honour and respect them; and by honouring them, we +call upon them, because by honouring them, we have an Opportunity to lay +our Necessities before them, to the end that they may obtain that +Assistance and Favour of God which is necessary for us. + +I say, that we ought also to call more particularly upon the Holy Virgin +than the other Saints: Because she is the Mother of God, would it not be +impious to say, that she deserves not to be invok’d? Who is more proper +than a Mother to obtain Favour from a Son? Who can better reconcile us +with God than the Virgin? She flies to the Holy Altar of Reconciliation, +and does not only repair thither as a Supplicant, but as an Empress, +according to the very Words of St. _Peter Damien_, Serm. xliv. Nativ. +Virg. _Accedis ante illud aureum reconciliationis humanæ Altare, non solum +rogans, sed imperans, Domina, non Ancilla_, i. e. _Thou presentest thyself +before that Golden Altar of Mankind’s Reconciliation, not only petitioning +as a Servant, but commanding as a Sovereign._ What can excuse us from +honouring and reverencing the Being, by whom we receive our Deliverance, +our Preservation, and our Life? As St. _Augustin_ says, (_De Sancta +Virginitate_, Chap. VI.) _Per Evam Mors, per Mariam Salus_, _i. e._ By +_Eve_ came Death, by _Mary_ Salvation. + +I have no Reason to doubt but the Saints hear us, because I believe the +Testimonies of the Holy Fathers: St. _Gregory_ of _Nazianzen_ was of this +Opinion, when he says in his Twentieth Epistle, _Illud persuasum Sanctorum +animum res nostras sentire_, i. e. I am persuaded, that the Saints are +sensible of our Affairs; and St. _Gregory_ of _Nissa_, in the Nineteenth +Prayer which he makes to St. _Theodore_, says; _Quanquam tu vitam hanc +transcendisti, humanas tamen molestias et necessitates non ignoras; +impetra nobis pacem_, i. e. Altho’ thou art got beyond this Life, yet thou +art not ignorant of the Troubles and Necessities of Mankind; intercede for +Peace for us. There are several other Holy Men, who have believ’d and +declar’d, that the Angels meet those that pray, in order to receive and +conduct them to the Throne of Glory, _Et suspicientes eos usque ad Thronum +Gloria sancti Dei perducunt._ Because the Saints hear our Prayers, I +infer, that we are obliged to pray for them: And indeed if the Saints did +not hear us, ’twould be to no more Purpose to invoke them, than it would +be for their hearing us, if we did not call upon them. + +I honour therefore and call upon the Blessed, who enjoy celestial Glory, +and I will invoke them even to the last Breath of my Life, at which time I +shall have more need of their Assistance: I will invoke them as long as I +live: The Holy Scripture teaches me that God himself has given Praise to +some of the Saints. In fine, upon their Protection do I found my Hopes; if +it be true, that the Saints in Heaven rejoice when but one Sinner is +converted and repenteth, how can I doubt but the Saints, when they are +invok’d by Penitents, will relieve them, and obtain that Pardon for their +Sins, and that Grace which they stand in need of? + + * * * * * + +XXXVIII. Since we ought to call upon the Saints, and since they hear our +Prayers, I believe, that I am oblig’d to honour their Images, their Tombs, +as well as their sacred Relics; and if I have a Respect for a Piece of +Painting that represents the Likeness of my King, or of any Sovereign, hew +much more Reason have I to venerate whatsoever represents to me the +Saints, who are far above the Princes of this World, because they are the +Friends of God, and our Protectors with him? + +The Use of Images has been allow’d at all times: God himself order’d the +making of Figures and Images: For Example, the Cherubims of Propitiation +and the Brazen Serpent were made by his Command. And when the Heretics +say, that God forbids Images, they are in the Wrong: God indeed forbids us +to make Images to worship them, but this is what I am not guilty of; for +the Respect which I pay to Images is not for the Sake of what they are, +but for what they represent to me: ’Tis not to the Images that I address +my Prayer; and whenever I fall on my Knees before an Image, ’tis because I +am willing to honour and pray to the Saint, whom it represents to me. + +Images put me in Mind of the History of the Old and New Testament: They +remind me of all the Favours God has bestow’d upon me; which engages me +the more fervently to love and serve him. Finally, the Images of the +Saints create a Desire in us to imitate the Sanctity of their Lives and +Actions. + + * * * * * + +XXXIX. As to _Merit_: ’Tis certain that Heaven cannot be won but by good +Works: Heaven is only promis’d to us, as a Reward: In order to be +convinc’d of this Truth, I need only have Regard to the Words which Jesus +Christ says to the Righteous, _Matt_. xxv. Ver. 34, 35. _Come, ye blessed +of my Father, inherit the Kingdom prepared for you from the Foundation of +the World: For I was an hungred, and ye gave me Meat; I was thirsty, and +ye gave me Drink; I was a Stranger, and ye took me in._ Our Lord calls the +Righteous into his Holy Paradise, because they gave him to eat, when he +was hungry; and to drink, when he was thirsty: From these Words I infer, +that Heaven is not a mere Gift, it must be won by good Works: Does not +Jesus Christ say in another Place, _Mark_ ix. Ver. 42. _That if but a Cup +of Water be given to drink in his Name, the Giver shall not lose his +Reward_, but shall have a Torrent of Delights? Nothing can be more clear, +nothing more evident to prove, that we are capable of meriting with God, +than what St. _Paul_ says in his first Epistle to the _Corinthians_, Chap. +iii. Ver. 8. _And every Man shall receive his own Reward, according to his +own Labour_: This is my Reason for thinking, that he who has done most, +shall receive the greatest Reward. ’Tis therefore that Jesus Christ says, +_In my Father’s House are many Mansions_, John xiv. Ver. 2. I do therefore +believe, that I ought not to be idle nor slothful, and that, on the +contrary, I should strive without ceasing to acquire the Kingdom of Heaven +by my good Works. Jesus Christ says in St. _Matthew_, Chap. xi. Ver. 12. +_That the Kingdom of Heaven suffereth Violence, and the Violent take it +by Force._ He says also in another Place, _If thou wilt enter into Life, +keep my Commandments._ Now, in order to enable us to do these good Works, +I believe the Grace of God to be necessary for us; and this Grace of God +is obtain’d by the Fervency of our Prayers, and the Steadiness of our +Faith. + + * * * * * + +XL. I proceed to the _Authority of the Visible Head of the Church_: By +this Head I understand, as I have already said, the Pope, who is the +lawful Successor of St. _Peter_; and, as such, I believe, that he is +infallible, not only in the Government of the Church, but also in all +Matters of Faith: I rely solely upon what Jesus Christ said upon this +Subject, when he gave the Keys to St. _Peter_, _Thou art Peter, and upon +this Rock will I build my Church_, Matt. xvi. Ver. 18. By this Act Jesus +Christ establish’d St. _Peter_ for the Head and Prince of the Church: The +following Words of Jesus Christ are an intire Confirmation of this Truth, +_Matt._ xvi. Ver. 18. _And the Gates of Hell shall not prevail against +it_, that is to say, against the Church, and by Consequence against its +Head. ’Tis therefore true, that God granted an absolute Authority to St. +_Peter_ and his Successors, which Authority has a Resemblance with that +which God granted under the Old Law, to _Aaron_ and his Family. + +In Consideration of this supreme Dignity I believe, that I cannot pay +Respect and Submission enough to the Pope; and I think what I advance is +prov’d in the first Place, because to honour the Vicar of Jesus Christ, is +paying Devotion to himself: Secondly, ’tis honouring St. _Peter_, to +honour his Successor; and lastly, I believe, that I am the more worthy to +be a Member of the Church, when I honour him who is the Head of it. + +I therefore kiss his Feet, as I would those of Jesus Christ himself: I +fall prostrate before him, as I would before St. _Peter_; and am intirely +persuaded, that this Token of Adoration, so far from being liable to the +Charge of Idolatry, as the Heretics think, can, on the contrary, be only +deem’d a Thing agreeable to God, and what tends to his Glorification. We +are told in the Old Testament, that Jacob _bowed himself to the Ground to_ +Esau _seven times_, Gen. xxxiii. Ver. 3, 7. His Children, with _Leah_ and +_Rachel_, also ador’d him: _Joseph_ was ador’d by his Brethren: _Abigail_ +ador’d _David_, and _Bathsheba_ _Solomon_. None of these Acts of Adoration +were made to God, but to Men; why then shall we refuse to adore the Head +of _Christendom_? Tho’ St. _Peter_ refus’d to be ador’d by +_Cornelius_,’twas because he was very sensible, that _Cornelius_, being a +Gentile, would pay him Obeisance and Worship little inferior to that which +was due to God; but this is no Argument that St. _Peter_ did not receive +the Honours that were due to him, as being the Head of the Church: In +fine, when I cast myself at the Pope’s Feet, I have a Share in his +Benediction, I humbly desire it, and I adore in him the Power which he has +to bless me. I am also persuaded, that none but the Pope has a Right to +assemble a Council; and I believe, that every Assembly which is held by +the Name of a Council, without the Participation of the Pope, cannot be +deem’d an Œcumenical Council. A Body is incapable of acting without its +Head, for ’tis the Head by which the Body is always directed: Consequently +the Church cannot assemble, act, nor decide, without the Pope, who is its +Head, and who, by Consequence, has the sole Right of Decision; because he +is the Rock on which Jesus Christ has founded his Church, and because +without him there would be no Church. I therefore with Submission receive +all the Decisions of a Council where the Pope either presides in Person, +or by his Legates; and I look upon all Assemblies of Priests that are met, +or are held by the Command of any other Power than the Pope, as mere +Assemblies of the Clergy. + + * * * * * + +Thus, my Lord, have I given you the sincere Declaration of my Faith, such +as it is imprinted on my Heart: I believe it Holy, and I believe it +Canonical; and hope, that when your Lordship sees it in Writing, you will +give it the same Approbation that you were pleased to honour it with when +I had the Favour of making it to you by Word of Mouth. If, contrary to my +Intention, I have deviated from the Track of Truth, I intreat you, my +Lord, to lend me your Hand, to vouchsafe to be my Guide, and to lead me to +that Piety which you profess, and by which all Mankind is edified: Make me +worthy of the Dignity of the Priesthood, of which I am ambitious. But this +is trespassing too far upon your Eminency’s Attention, and ’tis high time +to put an End to a Letter, which nothing can excuse the Length of, but the +Sacredness of the Subject whereof it treats. I shall think myself +exceeding happy, if I have explain’d myself with sufficient Perspicuity, +and if the Sentiments I lay before your Lordship can render me deserving +of the Honour of your Esteem. I am, with infinite Respect, + + _My_ LORD, + _Your_ LORDSHIP’S + _Most Humble, and_ + _Most Obedient Servant_, + Charles-Lewis, _Baron_ de Pollnitz. + + END of VOL. IV. + + [Illustration: Decoration.] + + + + + AN Alphabetical INDEX TO THE FOURTH VOLUME. + + + A. + + AGRIPPA, 132. + + AICHSTED, _t._, 266. + + _St. Aignan_ (Duke of), 3. + Order’d to quit _Spain_, 7, 8. + His Converse with the Cardinal _Borgia_, 214. + + AIX, in _Provence_, _t._, 100. + + _Alberoni_ (Cardinal), 2, 7, 8, 19, 20, 94, 211, 213, _&c._ + Impos’d on by Fortune-hunters, 21. + His Disgrace, Resentment, and Consequences of his Disgrace, 112 to + 115. + + _Albert-Cajetan Charles_, Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_, 35. + His Marriage with the Archduchess, 270. + + ALCALA, _t._, 204. + + _Alexander_ VII. (Pope), 126. + + _Alliance_ (Quadruple), 3. + + ALTEN-OTTINGEN, _t._, 91. + + _Amedeus_ VIII. (Duke of _Savoy_), 174. + + _Amphitheatre_ (of _Vespasian_), 132. + + _D’Ancenis_, (Marquis), 6. + + ANCONA, _t._, 150. + + ANDERNACH, _t._, 259. + + _Anhalt-Dessau_ (Prince of), 261. + + _Anne_ (Queen) her Statue, 241. + + ANTIBES, _t._, 106. + + _Aranjuez_ (Palace), 224, 231. + + _Asfeld_ (Abbe de), 24. + + _Asturias_ (Prince of), 210. + + _Audiences_, an Abuse in that Article at _Vienna_, 55. + + AUGSBOURG, _t._, 27 to 29, 265. + Its Bishop, the Manner of his Election, and his Sovereignty, 29. + + _Augustus_ II. King of _Poland_, 84, 85. + His Queen, 85. + + _Augustus_ III. See _Poland_, 2nd Electoral Prince of _Saxony_. + + AVIGNON, _t._, 100. + + _Aurelius Marcus_ (Emperor), 133. + + AUXERRE, _t._, 96. + + + B. + + _Bank_ Bills of _France_, 23, 180 to 185. + + BARBI, _t._, 262, 284. + + _Bareith_, Margrave and Margravine, 295. + + _Bavaria_, (Elector of) his Palace and Court, 31, 32, _&c._ + Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_’s Marriage to the Archduchess, 270. + + BAYONNE, _t._, 188. + + _Belgrade_, Prince _Eugene_’s Victory near it, 1. + The Siege of it, 40. + + _Bernini_, a famous Designer, 126. + + _Berwick_ (Marshal) His Ingratitude to the King of Spain, 19. + He takes _Fontarabia_, 22. + + BEZIERS, _t._, 186. + + BILBAO, _t._, 235, 236, _&c._ + + _Bing_, (Admiral) his Expedition to the _Mediterranean_, 2, 3. + + _Biscay_, (Province) its Privileges, 237. + + BLANKENBERG, _t._, 282. + + _Bohemia_, (St. _Wenceslaus_ King of), 288. + + _Bois_, (Abbat de) Ambassador, 3, 113, 114. + + BOIS-LE-DUC, _t._, 257. + + BOLOGNA, _t._, 151. + + _Borgia_, (Cardinal) his Ignorance, 214. + + _Brittany_, Consequences of the Discontent of that Province, 94, _&c._ + + BRUNETTE, LA, _t._, 173. + + _Bucentaures_, _Saxon_ and _Venetian_, 74, 75, 155. + + BURGOS, _t._, 233. + + _Burgundy_, States and Parliament, 97. + + ---- Wine, where the best, 97. + + + C. + + _Campo Florido_, (M. de), 212, 224. + + _Carignan_, (Prince and Princess of), 167, 168. + + _Carlos_, Don, 210. + + CARELSBADT, _t._, 284, 295. + + CASAL, _t._, 164. + + _Castelar_, (M. de), 212, 224. + + CASTELNAUDARI, _t._, 186. + + _Castillone_, (Prince of) Viceroy of _Navarre_, 202, 203. + + _Catalonia_, 237. + + _Celi_, (M. de), 26. + + _Cellamare_, (Prince of) his Conspiracy, 3, _&c._ + Put under an Arrest, 5. + + _Cenis_, M., 173. + + _Chalisac_, (Baron de), 263. + + CHALONS, _t._, 97. + + _Chamber_, Imperial, 26. + + CHAMBERY, _t._, 173. + + _Charles_ I. King, beheaded, 239. + His Statue, 246, + and Picture, 253. + + _Charles_ II. Effigy, 243, 247. + + _Charles_ V. (Emperor) why he resign’d his Dominions, 25, 220. + + _Charles_ VI. (Emperor), 57, 58. + His Empress, 58, 59. + Their Entry at _Prague_, 286. + + _Charles_ XII. King of _Sweden_, 105. + + _Charles Emanuel_, King of _Sardinia_, 167. + + _Charolois_, (Count de), 39, 89, 91. + + _Charost_, (Duke of), 6. + + _Chateauneuf_, (M. de), 95. + + _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_, 128. + + CIEUTA, _t._, 104. + + _Clement_, Duke of _Bavaria_, 35, 270. + + _Clement_ VI. Pope, 100. + + _Collobradt_ (Count of), 290. + + _Colloredo_, Count and Countess, 156, 293. + + _Conti_ (Prince of), 19. + + _Conti_ (Princess of), 7. + + _Cosel_ (Countess of), 87. + + _Cosmo_ I. Great Duke of _Tuscany_, 117. + + ---- III., 119. + His Family, 120. + _De Medicis_, 119. + + _Crowns_, Royal, 248. + + _Culmbach_ (Prince of), 296. + + + D. + + _Dadoncourt_, M. 188, _&c._ to, 201. + + _Dammartin_ (Count de), 91. + + _Daubanton_ the Jesuit Confessor to the King of _Spain_, + his Credit and Character, 213, 218, 223. + + DESSAU, _t._, 261. + + _Devos_, Tapistry-Maker, 47. + + _Diamond_ of the Great Duke of _Tuscany_, 121. + + DIJON, _t._, 97. + + _Doge_ of _Genoa_, 110, 111. + + _Dombes_ (Prince of) his Banishment, 7. + + _Doria, Andrew_, 109. + + DRESDEN, _t._ Electoral Prince and Princess of _Saxony’s_ Entrance + there, 74, 75, _&c._ + Description of the City, 86, _&c._ + + _Duke, French_, a great Dealer in Grocery, 182. + + _Durand, Don Miguel_, Secretary, 113. + + _Duremberg_ (Baron de) Envoy, 272. + + + E. + + _Elizabeth-Christina_, Empress of _Germany_, 58, 59. + + St. _Elmo_ Castle, 141. + + _Emperor_, see _Charles_ VI. + + _Empress_, see _Elizabeth_ the Dowager, 59. + + _English_, their Character, 249, _&c._ + What happen’d to an _Englishman_ at _Maestricht_, 257, _&c._ + + _Escurial_ Palace, 230. + + _D’Eu_ (Count) his Banishment, 7. + + _Eugene_ (Prince) his Victory near _Belgrade_, 1. + His Palace, 47. + + + F. + + FANO, _t._, 150. + + _Farnese, Francis_, Duke of _Parma_, 161, _&c._ + + _La Favorita_ Palace, 46. + + _Ferdinand_ II. Emperor, 291. + + _Ferdinand_ Duke of _Bavaria_, 35. + + FLORENCE, _t._ 117 to 122. + + _Fontarabia_ besieg’d, 19. + Taken, 22, 94. + + _Force_, Duke de la, 182. + + _Francis_ I. King of _France_, 164. + + _Franconia_ (Duke of), 272, _&c._ + + _Frederic_ Elector Palatine, his Disgrace, 36, 291, 292. + His Son’s Disgrace, 275. + + FREJUS, _t._, 106. + + + G. + + _Galas_, Festival Days at _Vienna_, 55, 56, 57. + + _Galen_ (Baron de), 81. + + _Gallas_ (Count de), 142, 291. + + GENEVA, _t._, 174. + Its Ministers and Magistrates, 175, 176. + The Character of its Merchants, 177. + + _Genoa_, 108, 109. + Its Doge, 110, 111. + + _Giudice_ (Cardinal), 135, 136. + + GRASSE, _t._, 106. + + _Gregory_ XI. (Pope), 100. + + ---- XIII. (Pope) his Statue, 151. + + _Grimaldo_ (Marquis de), 7, 211, 212, 217, 218, 223. + + _Gualtieri_ (Cardinal), 135, 136. + + _Guards_, the late King _George_’s, 240. + + _Guise_ (Duke of), 25. + + _Guldenstein_ (Count de), 281. + + _Gustavus Adolphus_ King of _Sweden_, 28. + Greater than the Great _Alexander_, 34. + + + H. + + _Hackney_ Coaches, 242. + + _Hagen_, M. Envoy of _Saxe-Gotha_, 272. + + HAGUE, _t._, 253, _&c._ + + HAMBOURG, _t._, 280. + + HEIDELBERG, _t._, 11, _&c._ 15. + Its fine Library carried to _Rome_, and other great Ravages committed + there, 15, 17. + Its famous Tun, 18. + + _Henry_ II. King of _France_, 25. + + ---- IV. King of _France_, 187. + + _Hermitage_, 298. + + _Himmelscron_ Castle, 296. + + HOFF, _t._, 265. + + _Holtzendorff_ M., 219. + + _Holy_ Week, how solemniz’d at _Rome_, 138, _&c._ + At _Madrid_, 224. + + _Horn_ (Count de) his Catastrophe, 182. + + _Horses_, Statues of, finely cast, 247. + + _Hussites_, 291. + + + I. + + _St. James_’s Park and Palace, 239. + Square, 252. + + _Januarius_ St., 141. + + _Ibrahim_ Basha, the _Turkish_ Ambassador’s Entry at _Vienna_, 62 to + 66. + + _St. Ildephonso_ Palace, 231. + + INGOLDSTAT, _t._, 267. + + _Inquisition_ of _Spain_, 229. + + _Interim_, a Formulary so call’d, 27. + + _St. John_ de Nepomucene, 289, 290. + + _Joseph_ (afterwards Emperor) chose King of the _Romans_, 28. + His Marriage, 59. + + + K. + + _Kensington_ Palace, 253. + + KIEL, _t._, 281. + + _Kinski_’s Palace, 289. + + _Kirchner_ (Baron de), 267, 272. + + _Konigsfelt_ (Count de), 271. + + _Koningsmark_ (General), 292, 293. + + + L. + + _La Borde_, her Story and Character, 193, _&c._ + + _Lagnasco_ (Count de), 66. + + _Lake_ of _Geneva_, 174. + + _Lamberg_ (Cardinal of), 267. + + LANEBOURG, _t._, 173. + + _Languedocians_, 187. + + _Lateran_ Church, 131. + + _Law_, John, the Projector, 180, _&c._ + + _Lede_ (Marquis de), 2. + + _Le G----_, 205, 206. + + _Leopold_ (Emperor) crown’d, 28. + + _Lewis_ Dauphin of _France_, 15. + + _Lewis_ IV. King of _France_, his Tomb, 29. + + _Lignares_ (Duchess de), 190. + + LONDON, _t._, 238, _&c._ + + LORETTO, _t._, 147. + The miraculous or holy House there, 148, 149. + + _Lorge_ (Marshal de) lampoon’d for his fruitless Attack upon + _Heidelberg_, 16. + + _Lorrain_ (Duke of), 120. + + _Luther_, Martin, 27, 274. + + _Lutzelbourg_ (Count de), 81. + + _Lyons_, _t._, 97. + + + M. + + MADRID, _t._, 205. + Palaces and Court, 220, 221, _&c._ + + _Maffei_ (Count de) Viceroy of _Sicily_, 2. + + _Maine_, Duke and Duchess arrested, 5, 6. + Madamoiselle _De_, 7. + + _Manheim_, why the Elector Palatine remov’d thither from _Heidelberg_, + 16, 17. + + _Marcus-Aurelius_, Emperor, 133. + + _Maria-Josepha_ Electoral Princess of _Saxony_, 60. + Her Marriage, 66. + Entry at _Dresden_, 74, _&c._ + + _Maria-Amelia_ Electoral Princess of _Bavaria_, 60. + + _Marlborough_ House, 246. + + _Marriage_ of the Sea by the Doge of _Venice_, 155. + + MARSEILLES, _t._, 102. + Plague there, 184. + + _Mary-Ann_ Queen Dowager of _Spain_, 190. + + MASTRICHT, _t._, 257. + + _Matignon_ (M. de), 108. + + _Maximilian-Emanuel Mary_ Elector of _Bavaria_, 34. + His Family, Court and Palaces, 29 to 44. + + _St._ MENEHOULT, _t._, 24. + + METZ, _t._, 35. + + MILAN, _t._, 162. + Duchy, 163, _&c._ + + _Ministers_, Lutheran, see _Dresden_. + ---- of _Geneva_, see _Geneva_. + + MODENA, _t._, 159. + Princes, 157, 159, 160, 179. + + _Molard_ (Count de), 70. + + MONACO, _t._, 108. + + _Monk_ (General), 343. + + _Montague_ House, 245. + + _Monthel_ (Baron de), 199, 207. + + MONTEFIASCONE, _t._, 123, _&c._ + + _Montesquiou_ (Marshal de), 95. + + _Montmorency_ (Constable of), 25, 186. + + MONTPELIER, _t._, 185. + + _Monument_ described, 246. + + MORET, _t._, 96. + + MUNICH, _t._, 29. + + + N. + + NAPLES, _t._, 141. + + _Nat_ (Count de), 280. + + _Neapolitan_ Lady’s odd Compliment to the King of _Spain_, 143. + + NICE, _t._, 106. + + NISMES, _t._, 185. + + _Nobles Venetian_, their Scrupulousness, 155. + + NUREMBERG, _t._, 265. + + _Nymphenbourg_ Palace, 38, 41. + + + O. + + _Opera’s_ at _London_, 244. + + _Orleans_ (Duke of) his Regency 22, _&c._ + His Answer to those that solicited him in Favour of the Count _De + Horn_, 184. + + _Oropesa_ (Count de), 66, 67. + + _Ottowalski_, Captain, 292, 293. + + + P. + + PADUA, _t._, 158. + + _Palatinate_ Upper, why given to the _Bavarian Family_, 36. + + _Palatine, Charles-Philip_ of _Neubourg_ Elector 11, 12, 13. + + PAMPELUNA, _t._, 202. + + _Pamphili_ Prince, 135. + + _Pantheon_ Church at _Rome_, 132. + + _Parliament_ of _Great-Britain_, Ceremony of the King’s coming to it, + 243. + + PARMA, _t._, 161. + The Dukes, 112, 161, 162. + The Dukes Court, 161. + + PASSAU, _t._, 44. + Treaty concluded there, _ibid._ + + PAU, _t._, 187. + + _St. Paul’s_ Church 241. + + _Peralte_ a Physician, fated to die by the Inquisition, 229. + + PESARO, _t._, 150. + + _Philip_ V., 210, 220. + See _Spain_. + + _Pierre_ Encise Castle, 97. + + _Pilate_, whither banish’d, 99. + + PIRNA, _t._ 74. + + PISA, _t._, 116, 117. + + PLACENTIA, _t._, 162. + + _Plague_ at _Marseilles_, 184. + + _Plays_ at _London_, 245. + + _Plettenberg_ M. Envoy, 271, 272. + + _Poland_, King, Queen and Prince, 84, 85. + Queen of, Wife of _Augustus_ II., 85. + The Wife of _Augustus_ III. her Reception in _Saxony_, and Entry at + _Dresden_, 66 to 73. + _Polish_ Magnificence, 74, _&c._ + + _Polignac_ (Cardinal de) his Banishment, 7. + + _Pollnitz_ (Madamoiselle de), 241, 261, 272. + Her Death, 279. + + _Pollnitz_ (_Charles-Lewis_ Baron de) our Author, his precipitate + Departure from _Paris_, and Arrest at _Toul_, 8, 9. + His Enlargement, 11. + His good Reception at the Palatine Court, 13, 14. + His Folly there, 14. + His Return to _Paris_, 18. + Being weary of soliciting in vain, he leaves _France_, 24. + He obtains a Company at _Vienna_ and a Supply to remount his + Equipage, 60. + Gets a Furlough, 7. + His Fistula plagues him again, 89. + His Journey to _Paris_ for a Cure, 92, 93. + He gains great Sums by the Stocks, and loses them, 93, 94. + His Departure to go and join his Regiment in _Sicily_, 96. + His Danger of being cast away at Sea, 107. + His Reception by the Great Duke of _Tuscany_, 119. + What sad Lodgings he had at _Montefiascone_, 122. + The Danger he was in at that Place, 124. + His Reception at _Rome_, 129, _&c._ + His Visits, 134 to 136, _&c._ + His Audience of the Pope, 137. + His Resignation of his Commission, 146, 147. + What happen’d to him at _Ferrara_, 152. + His Reception by the Duke of _Modena_, 159, + and the Duke of _Parma_, 161. + How he was trick’d by a Merchant at _Geneva_, 177. + Returns to _Paris_, 179. + Ill-us’d by one _Dadoncourt_ an Officer at _Bayonne_, 188, _&c._ + His Reception by the Queen Dowager of _Spain_, 190. + His imprudent Language, and Arrest thereupon, 193, _&c._ + His Release, 200, 202. + The Adventure he met with when became to _Madrid_, 205. + His Reception by the Court of _Spain_, 207. + His Solicitations there for some Post, 208. + His Commission to be a Lieutenant-Colonel, but receives no Pay, 215, + 216. + His melancholy Situation, and Relief by Mr. _Stanhope_, 219, 232. + His Departure from _Madrid_, and the Danger he ran, 232. + His ill Reception at the Court of _England_, 241. + His Voyage to _Holland_, 253. + His Arrest for Debt at the _Hague_, and his Deliverance by a + Tradeswoman, 255. + His Danger of being a second time arrested, and his Escape, 256. + His Sickness in the Road to _Germany_, as he went thither to settle + his Affairs, 259, 260. + His ill Reception at _Dessau_ by the Prince Of _Anhalt_, 262. + How he settled his Affairs with his Brother, and had Thoughts of + turning a Clergyman, 263, _&c._ + His fruitless Application to the Cardinal of _Saxe-Zeits_ at + _Ratisbon_, 269, 270. + His good Reception there by the Ministers, 271, 272. + Makes new Settlements with his Brother, 280. + His Treatment by the Duke of _Blankenberg_, 283. + His Journey to _Holland_ to satisfy his Creditors, 294, 300. + His Confession of Faith, see Appendix. + + PONT ST. ESPRIT, _t._, 99. + + _Portocarrero_, Abbat, arrested, 4. + Releas’d, 5. + + _Poussin_, M. Minister, 280. + + POZZUOLI, _t._, 145. + + PRAGUE, _t._, 286, 288, _&c._ + + _Prize-fighters_, 252. + + _Processions_ in _Spain_ scandalous, 225, 226. + + _Provence_, Country, 103. + + PUTEOLI, _t._, 145. + + _Pyll_, Mrs., our Author’s Obligation to her, 255, 294. + + _Pyrenees_ Mountains, 188, 202. + + + Q. + + _Quadruple_ Alliance, 3. + + _Quinquempoix_ Street, 93. + + + R. + + _Rabutin_ (Madame de), 56. + + _Radzivil_ (Duchess of), 261. + + RATISBON, _t._, 267, 268, 269. + + _Regatte_, a naval Race so called, 157. + + REGIO, _t._, 161. + + _Rhebinder_ (General de), 170. + + _Richmond_ (Duchess of) her Statue, 243. + + RIMINI, _t._, 150. + + _La Roche_ (M. de), 207. + + ROME, _t._, 124, _&c._ + Assemblies there, 133, 134. + + _Royal_ Exchange, 246. + + _Rupert_ (Count Palatine and Duke of _Bavaria_), 15. + + + S. + + _Saillant_ (M. de), 25. + + ST. MENEHOULT. _t._, 24. + + _Saltzbourg_, a ridiculous Entertainment given there by the Archbishop, + 89, 90. + + SAVONA, _t._, 108. + + _Savoy_, (Family of) see _Turin_. + + _Saxe-Zeits_ (Cardinal), 264. + Duke, 265. + + ---- _Gotha_ (Prince of), 105. + + _Saxony_, Ceremonies of the Electoral Prince’s Marriage with the + Archduchess, 66 to 73. + Their Entry at _Dresden_, 74, _&c._ + The Electoral Family, 84, 85, _&c._ + + _Schleisheim_ Palace, 43. + + _Schrotenbach_ Cardinal, Viceroy of _Naples_, 142. + + _Schulembourg_ (M. de), 170. + + _Scotti_ M. the Minister of _Parma_, 220. + + ST. SEBASTIAN, _t._ taken, 24, 94. + + _Seissan_, M. de, an odd Accident he met with, 113. + + SENLIS, _t._ + + _Sicily_, _Spanish_ Expedition to that Island, 1, 2. + + SIENNA, _t._, 124. + + _Sixtus_ V. Pope, 125, 126. + + _Sobieski, Theresa-Cunegunda_, Electress of _Bavaria_, 34. + + ---- _John_, King of _Poland_, 45. + + _Soho_ Quarter, 240. + + _Spain_ (Queen of) Dowager of _Charles_ II., 190. + Court of, 190, 191, _&c._ 210, _&c._ + Character of the present Queen, 210. + + _Spanish_ Entertainments, 228. + + ---- Inquisition, 229. + + SPIRES, _t._, 26. + + _Stair-case_, holy, 131, 132. + + _Stairs_, Earl, 2. + + _Stanhope_, Earl, 2, 113, 114. + + _Stanhope_, Mr. his Friendship to the Author, 219, 220, 232. + + _Staremberg_ (Count de), 45. + + _St. Stephen_ (Knights of), 117. + + _Suicide_, Counterfeit, 172. + + _Sultzbach_ (Hereditary Prince of), 12. + + SUSA, _t._, 172. + + + T. + + _Tapistry_ Hangings made by the famous _Devos_, 47. + + _Texeitra_ a rich _Portuguese_, 256. + + _Thames_ River, 238. + + _Thursday_ (holy) Ceremonies on that Day at _Rome_, 138, _&c._ + + _Tilly_ General, 15. + + TOUL, _t._, 9, _&c._ + + TOULON, _t._, 105. + + TOULOUSE, _t._, 186. + + _Tower_ of _London_, 247, 248. + + TREVOUX, _t._, 97. + + _Tschermin’s_ great House, 289. + + _Tun_ of _Heidelberg_, 18. + + _Turin_, _t._, 164, _&c._ + Duke of _Savoy_’s Court and Family, 165 to 172. + An Adventure which happen’d there, 171. + + _Turkish_ Ambassador’s Entry at _Vienna_, 62 to 66. + + _Turks_ defeated by the Imperial Arms, 1, 3. + + _Tuscany_, (_Cosmo_ III. Great Duke of) how he received the Author, + 119. + His Family, 120. + The Roads in this Country, 124. + + + V. + + _V----_, (the Baron de) Nephew of M. _de Seissan_, his Character, 232. + His Fray with his Landlady, 235. + + _Valentinois_ (Duke of), 108. + + _Valois_ (Madamoiselle de), 179. + See _Modena_. + + _Var_ R., 106. + + _Vatican_ Palace at _Rome_, 129. + Pope’s Entry to it, 137. + + VENICE, _t._, 153. + + VERDUN, _t._, 24. + + _Vespasian’s_ Amphitheatre, 133. + + _Vesuvius_ M., 144. + + _Victor Amedeus_, King of _Sardinia_, 167. + + VIENNA, _t._, 44. + Court, 50, 51. + _Turks_ Attempts upon it, 45. + + VIENNE, in _Dauphiny_, _t._, 99. + + VILLA-FRANCA, _t._, 107. + + _Villeroy_, Family, 98. + + VITTORIA, _t._, 234. + + ULM, _t._, 26. + + _Urban_ VIII. Pope, 127, 133, 150. + + _Urbino_, Duchy, 150 + + _Vriesberg_ (M. de) Envoy of _Hanover_, 272. + + _Ursins_ (Princess of), 210. + + + W. + + _Wackerbarth_, Count, 66. + + _Wales_ (Prince and Princess of) their Attendants, 244. + + _Wenceslaus_ St. King of _Bohemia_, 288, 289. + + WESTMINSTER, _t._, 243, _&c._ + + _Whitehall_ Palace, 230. + + _Wilhelmina-Amelia_ Empress Dowager, 59. + + WURTZBOURG, _t._, 272, _&c._ + + + X. + + _Ximenes_, Cardinal, 204. + + + Z. + + ZEITS, _t._, 256. See _Saxe-Zeits_. + + _Zinzendorf_ (Count de), 69. + + FINIS. + + [Illustration: Decoration.] + + + + +BOOKS _Printed for_ D. BROWNE, _at the_ Black Swan _without_ Temple-Bar. + + +1. A SURE Method of Improving Estates, by Plantations of Oak, Elm, Ash, +Beech, and other Timber-Trees, Coppice-Woods, &c. Wherein is demonstrated, +The Necessity and Advantages thereof; their Manner of raising, +cultivating, felling, &c. in all Kinds of Soils, whereby Estates may be +greatly improv’d. By _Batty Langley_ of _Twickenham_. Beautifully printed +in 8_vo._ Price 4 _s._ + +2. The VINEYARD. A Treatise, shewing 1. The Nature and Method of Planting, +Manuring, Cultivating, and Dressing of VINES in Foreign Parts. 2. Proper +Directions for Drawing, Pressing, Making, Keeping, Fining, and Curing all +Defects in the Wine. 3. An Easy and Familiar Method of Planting and +Raising VINES in _England_ to the greatest Perfection; illustrated with +several useful Examples. 4. New Experiments in Grafting, Budding, or +Inoculating; whereby all Sorts of Fruit may be much more improv’d than at +present; particularly, The Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, Plumb, &c. 5. The +best Manner of Raising several Sorts of Compound Fruit, which have not yet +been attempted in _England_. Being the OBSERVATIONS made by a GENTLEMAN in +his Travels. The Second Edition. Price 2 _s._ 6 _d._ + +3. The COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, and Farmer’s Monthly Director: Containing +necessary Instructions for the Management and Improvement of a FARM, in +every Month of the Year. Wherein is directed, The Times and Seasons proper +for _Ploughing_ and _Sowing_ of all Sorts of Corn for Grain; the Planting +and Managing of Hops, Liquorice, Madder, Saffron, and such other Crops as +stand more than one Year on the Ground. The Time of _Planting_ and +_Cutting_ of Coppice, or Spring of _Wood_, and Felling of Timber, the +Breeding and Feeding of _Poultry_, _Rabbits_, _Fish_, _Swine_, and all +Sorts of _Cattle_, with several Particulars relating to the Improvement of +_Bees_, never before made publick. By _R. Bradley_, Professor of Botany in +the University of _Cambridge_, and F.R.S. The Sixth Edition with +Additions; particularly, Some Rules for Breeding _Pheasants_, by a +Gentleman; and an Alphabetical Index. + +4. The COUNTRY HOUSEWIFE, and LADY’S MONTHLY DIRECTOR, in the Management +of a House, and the Delights and Profits of a Farm. Containing +Instructions for managing the Brew-House, Malt Liquors in the Cellar, the +Making of Wines of all Sorts. Directions for the Dairy, in the Improvement +of Butter and Cheese in the worst of Soils; the Feeding and Making of +Brawn; the Ordering of Fish, Fowl, Herbs, Roots, and all other useful +Branches belonging to a Country Seat, in the most elegant manner for the +Table. Practical Observations concerning Distilling; with the best Method +of making Ketchup, and many other durable Sauces. The Whole distributed in +their proper Months, from the Beginning to the End of the Year; with +particular Remarks relating to the Drying or Kilning of Saffron. By _R. +Bradley_, F.R.S. The Sixth Edition. Price 2_s._ 6_d._ + +5. The COUNTRY HOUSEWIFE, and LADY’S DIRECTOR, Part II. Including a great +Variety of Receipts for dressing all Sorts of Flesh, Fish, Fowl, Fruits, +and Herbs, which are the Production of a Farm, or from any Foreign Parts: +Contain’d in Letters, and taken from the Performances of the most polite +Proficients in most Parts of _Europe_. By _R. Bradley_, F.R.S. To which is +added, from a Poulterer in St. _James_’s Market, the Manner of Trussing +all Sorts of Poultry; adorn’d with Cuts: Shewing how every Fowl, Wild or +Tame, ought to be prepar’d for the Spit; and likewise any kind of Game. +Price 2_s._ 6_d._ + +6. A Dissertation concerning _Misletoe_: A most wonderful Specifick Remedy +for the Cure of Convulsive Distempers. Calculated for the Benefit of the +Poor as well as the Rich, and heartily recommended for the common Good of +Mankind. The Sixth Edition corrected. To which is added a Second Part, +containing farther Remarks and Observations. By Sir _John Colbatch_, late +Member of the College of Physicians. Price 1_s._ + +7. The Riches of a HOP-GARDEN Explain’d, from the several Improvements +arising by that beneficial _Plant_, as well to Private Cultivators of it +as to the Publick; with the Observations and Remarks of the most +celebrated Hop-Planters in _Britain_: Wherein such Rules are laid down for +the Management of the _Hop_, as may improve the most barren Ground, from +One Shilling to Thirty or Forty Pounds an Acre _per Annum_. In which is +particularly set forth, The whole Culture, from the first Breaking-up of +the Ground, the Planting, &c. to the Kilning or Drying of the _Hop_. +Rendred familiar to every Capacity. The Second Edition. By _R. Bradley_ +Professor of Botany in the University of _Cambridge_, and F.R.S. + + * * * * * + + + + + FOOTNOTES: + + +[1] _Dec. 2, 1718._ + +[2] See Vol. I. p. 321, &c. + +[3] See Vol. I. p. 276. + +[4] See Vol. I. p. 273. + +[5] See Vol. I. p. 258. + +[6] See Vol. I. p. 212 to 215. + +[7] See Vol. I. p. 268. + +[8] See Vol. II. p. 364. + +[9] See Vol. I. p. 364. + +[10] See Vol. I. p. 224 to 257. + +[11] See Vol. I. p. 87, &c. + +[12] See Vol. II. p. 181. + +[13] See Vol. II. p. 180. + +[14] See Vol. II. p. 173, &c. + +[15] See Vol. II. p. 143. + +[16] See Vol. II. p. 141. + +[17] See Vol. I. p. 425. Vol. II. p. 130. + +[18] This Prince died in _June_ 1737, and is succeeded by the Duke of +_Lorrain_. + +[19] She is now Regent for the Duke of _Lorrain_, who is at the Head of +the Imperial Army against the _Turks_. + +[20] See Vol. II. p. 1, &c. + +[21] See Vol. I. p. 423. + +[22] See Vol. I. p. 423. + +[23] See Vol. I. p. 395, &c. + +[24] See Vol. I. p. 422. + +[25] See Vol. I. p. 152, 167. + +[26] See Vol. II. p. 171. + +[27] The Duke _de la Force_. + +[28] Eccles. ii. 23. + +[29] See Vol. II. p. 450, &c. + +[30] Our Author made too short a Stay at this time in _England_, and was +too much circumscrib’d in his Conversation while he was here; or surely he +would not have ventur’d to have charg’d our Country in general with the +idle Surmises of the ignorant Vulgar. + +[31] Since the Author wrote, this Antipathy seems to be much abated. + +[32] When our Author was here, short Cloaks were hardly in the Fashion. + +[33] See Vol. I. p. 196. + +[34] See Vol. I. p. 185. + +[35] See Vol. I. p. 82. + +[36] See Vol. I. p. 210. + +[37] See Vol. I. p. 204. + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S AMENDMENTS + + +Transcriber’s Note: Blank pages have been deleted. On pages that remain, +some unnecessary page numbers may have been deleted when they fall in the +middle of lists. Some illustrations may have been moved. Footnotes have +been moved to above this paragraph. When the author’s preference can be +determined, we have rendered consistent on a per-word-pair basis the +hyphenation or spacing of such pairs when repeated in the same grammatical +context. The publisher’s inadvertent omissions of important punctuation +have been corrected. A table of contents has been added. Duplicative front +matter has been removed. + +The following list indicates any additional changes. The page number +represents that of the original publication and applies in this etext +except for footnotes and illustrations since they may have been moved. + + Page Change + 3 Minister of _Spoin_[_Spain_], + 7 the Kiug[King] and Queen, + 11 {footnote} See Vol. I. [p.] 268. + 30 the Palace of the _Tuilleries_[_Tuileries_], + 113 His Catholick[Catholic] Majesty thereby order’d + 114 Thunder-struck when he ready[read] this Letter, + 128 there’s her Picture in a Medaillon[Medallion], + 132 Galleries and an Amphitheatre, which, acccording[according] + 134 a Marble Ballustrade[Balustrade], adorn’d with Statues of the + 224 I saw the Court more than once at _Aranjues[Aranguez]_, + 272 the Baron _de Durremberg_[_Duremburg_]; + 284 but scalding hot, which is the more surprizeing[surprizing], + 288 _St. Winceslaus_[_Wenceslaus_] King of _Bohemia_ + 346 the Comeing[Coming] of our Lord, + + * * * * * + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de +Pollnitz, Volume IV, by Karl Ludwig von Pöllnitz + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MEMOIRS *** + +***** This file should be named 38519-0.txt or 38519-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/5/1/38519/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Henry Gardiner and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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