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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the
+Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III, by Karl Ritter von Scherzer
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III
+       (Commodore B. Von Wullerstorf-Urbair,) Undertaken by Order
+       of the Imperial Government in the Years 1857, 1858, & 1859,
+       Under the Immediate Auspices of His I. and R. Highness the
+       Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, Commander-In-Chief of the
+       Austrian Navy.
+
+Author: Karl Ritter von Scherzer
+
+Release Date: January 3, 2012 [EBook #38478]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AUSTRIAN FRIGATE NOVARA, VOL III ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Thorsten Kontowski, Henry Gardiner and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+(This file made from scans of public domain material at
+Austrian Literature Online.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been replicated
+faithfully except as shown in the List Of Corrections at the end of the
+text. Words in italics are indicated like _this_. Superscripts are
+indicated like this: S^ta Maria. Footnotes are located near the end of
+the chapters. [oe] represents the oe ligature. [)u] is a 'u' marked with a
+breve.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+                               NARRATIVE
+
+                                 OF THE
+
+                      Circumnavigation of the Globe
+
+                        BY THE AUSTRIAN FRIGATE
+
+                                 NOVARA,
+
+                (COMMODORE B. VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,)
+
+           _Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government_,
+
+                   IN THE YEARS 1857, 1858, & 1859,
+
+          UNDER THE IMMEDIATE AUSPICES OF HIS I. AND R. HIGHNESS
+
+                  THE ARCHDUKE FERDINAND MAXIMILIAN,
+
+              COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE AUSTRIAN NAVY.
+
+                                   BY
+
+                           DR. KARL SCHERZER,
+
+  MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION, AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA," ETC.
+
+                                VOL. III.
+
+
+                             [Illustration]
+
+                                LONDON:
+                       SAUNDERS, OTLEY, AND CO.,
+                   66, BROOK STREET, HANOVER SQUARE.
+
+                                 1863.
+
+                [THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.]
+
+
+                     JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.
+
+
+
+
+                                CONTENTS.
+
+                                                                      PAGE
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+                                 SYDNEY.
+
+    The politico-economical importance to England of her colonies.--
+    Extraordinary growth of Sydney.--Public buildings.--Expeditions
+    of discovery into the interior of Australia.--Scientific
+    endeavours in Sydney.--Macleay's Seat at Elizabeth Bay.--Sir
+    Daniel Cooper.--Rickety Dick.--Monument to La Pérouse at Botany
+    Bay.--The Botanical Garden.--Journey by rail to Campbelton.--
+    Camden Park.--German emigrants.--Wine cultivation in Australia.
+    Odd Fellows' Lodge at Campbelton.--Appin.--Wulongong.--Mr.
+    Hill.--The Aborigines.--Kangaroo hunting.--Coal mines in the
+    Keira range.--An adventure in the woods.--Return to Sydney.--The
+    Australian club.--Excursion up Hunter River as far as Ash
+    Island.--"Nuggets."--The _Novara_ in the dry dock at Cockatoo
+    Island.--Reformation among the prisoners in the colony.--
+    Serenade by the Germans in Sydney, in honour of the expedition.--
+    Ball on board the frigate.--Political life in Sydney.--Excursion
+    for craniological purposes to Cook-river Bay, and Long Bay.--
+    Intercourse with natives.--Wool growing.--Attempts to introduce
+    the Llama and Alpaca from Bolivia.--The gold-fields of the
+    colony of New South Wales.--Is Australia the youngest or oldest
+    part of the globe?--The convict-system and transportation as a
+    punishment.--Departure from Sydney.--Barrier Island.--Arrival at
+    Huraka Gulf, New Zealand.                                            1
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIX.
+
+                                AUCKLAND.
+
+    Request preferred by the Colonial Government to have the
+    coal-fields of the Drury District thoroughly examined by the
+    geologists of the _Novara_.--Geographical remarks concerning New
+    Zealand.--Auckland.--The Aborigines or Maori.--A Mass meeting.--
+    Maori legends.--Manners and customs of the Aborigines.--The
+    Meri-Meri.--Most important of the vegetable esculents of the
+    Aborigines before the arrival of the Europeans.--Dr. Thomson's
+    anthropological investigations.--Maori proverbs and poetry.--The
+    present war and its origin.--The Maori king.--Decay of the
+    native population and its supposed causes.--Advantages held out
+    by New Zealand to European emigration.--Excursion to the
+    Waiatarna valley.--Maori village of Oraki.--Kauri forests in the
+    Manukau range.--Mr. Smith's farm in Titarangi.--St. John's
+    College.--Intellectual activity in Auckland.--New Zealand silk.--
+    Excursion to the coal-fields of the Drury and Hunua Districts.--
+    New Year's Eve at the Antipodes.--Dr. Hochstetter remains in New
+    Zealand.--The Catholic mission in Auckland.--Two Maories take
+    service as seamen on board the _Novara_.--Departure.--The
+    results of the explorations of the geologist during his stay at
+    the island.--Crossing the meridian of 180° from West to East.--
+    The same day reckoned twice.--The sight of the islands of Tahiti
+    and Eimeo.--Arrival in the harbour of Papeete.                      93
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XX.
+
+                                TAHITI.
+
+    State of the island at the close of last century.--The London
+    Missionary Society and its emissaries.--Great mortality among
+    the native population.--First arrival of Catholic Priests in
+    Oceania.--French Protectorate and its consequences.--The
+    Tahitian Parliament and Tahitian debaters.--William Howe.--Adam
+    Kulczycki.--Scientific aims and achievements.--The Catholic
+    mission.--_Pré Catalan_ and native dances.--Prisoners of war
+    from New Caledonia.--Point Venus.--Guava-fields.--The fort of
+    Fautáua.--Lake Waiiria.--Popular _Fête_ at Faáa.--Ball given by
+    the Governor.--Queen Pomáre.--Geographical notes on Tahiti and
+    Eimeo.--Climate.--Vegetation.--The Kawa root, and the
+    intoxicating drink produced from it.--Great expense of the
+    French Stations in Oceania.--Projects of reform.--Results of
+    English and French colonization.--Two Convicts.--Departure.--The
+    Whaler _Emily Morgan_.--Attempt to fix the zero point of
+    magnetic declination.--"Colique végétale."--A victim.--Pitcairn
+    Island.--A fire-side tale of the tropical world.--An accident
+    without ill results.--Humboldt's Current.--Arrival at
+    Valparaiso.                                                        199
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXI.
+
+                              VALPARAISO.
+
+    Importance of Chile for German emigration.--First impressions of
+    Valparaiso.--Stroll through the city.--Commercial relations of
+    Chile with Australia and California.--Quebrada de Juan Gomez.--
+    The roadstead.--The Old Quarter and Fort Rosario.--Cerro Algre.--
+    Fire Companies.--Abadic's nursery-garden.--Campo Santo.--The
+    German community and its club.--A compatriot festival in honour
+    of the _Novara_.--Journey to Santiago de Chile.--University.--
+    National Museum.--Observatory.--Industrial and agricultural
+    schools.--Professor Don Ignacio Domey Ko.--Audience of the
+    President of the Republic.--Don Manuel Montt and his political
+    opponents.--Family life in Santiago.--Excursion trip on the
+    southern railroad.--Maipú Bridge.--Melepilla.--The Hacienda of
+    Las Esmeraldas.--Chilean hospitality.--Return to Valparaiso.--
+    Quillota.--The German colony in Valdivia.--Colonization in the
+    Straits of Magellan.--Ball at the Austrian Consul-general's in
+    honour of the _Novara_.--Extraordinary voyage of a damaged
+    ship.--Departure of the _Novara_.--Voyage round Cape Horn.--The
+    Falkland Islands.--The French corvette _Eurydice_.--The Sargasso
+    sea.--Encounter with a merchant-ship in the open ocean.--Hopes
+    disappointed and curiosity excited.--Passage through the Azores
+    channel.--A vexatious calm.                                        280
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXII.
+
+   AN OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM VALPARAISO TO GIBRALTAR, VIÂ THE ISTHMUS OF
+                                PANAMA.
+
+    Departure from Valparaiso.--Coquimbo.--Caldera.--Cobija.--
+    Iquique.--Manufacture of saltpetre.--Arica.--Port d'Islay.--
+    _Medanos_, or wandering sand-hills.--Chola.--Pisco.--The Chincha
+    or Guano Islands.--Remarks respecting the Guano or Huanu beds.--
+    Callao.--Lima.--Carrion crows, the principal street-scavengers.--
+    Churches and Monasteries.--Hospitals.--Charitable institutions.--
+    Medical College.--National Library.--Padre Vigil.--National
+    Museum.--The Central Normal School.--Great lack of intellectual
+    energy.--Ruins of Cajamarquilla.--Chorillos.--Temple to the Sun
+    at Pachacamác.--River Rimac.--Amancaes.--The new prison.--
+    Bull-fights.--State of society in Peru.--The _Coca_ plant, and
+    the latest scientific examination respecting its peculiar
+    properties.--The _China_, or Peruvian-bark tree.--Departure from
+    Lima.--Lambajeque.--Indian village of Iting.--Païta.--Island of
+    La Plata.--Taboga Island.--Impression made by the intelligence
+    of Humboldt's death.--Panama.--"Opposition" Line.--Immense
+    traffic.--The Railway across the Isthmus.--Aspinwall.--
+    Carthagena.--St. Thomas.--Voyage to Europe on board the R.M.S.
+    _Magdalena_.--Falmouth.--Southampton.--London.--Rejoin the
+    _Novara_ at sea.--Arrival at Gibraltar.                            337
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+                       FROM GIBRALTAR TO TRIESTE.
+
+    First circumstantial details of the War of 1859.--Alterations in
+    Gibraltar since our previous visit.--Science and Warfare.--
+    Voyage through the Mediterranean.--Messina.--The _Novara_ taken
+    in tow by the War-steamer _Lucia_.--Gravosa.--Ragusa.--Arrival
+    of H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian at Gravosa.--
+    Presentation of the Staff.--Banquet on board the screw-corvette
+    _Dandolo_.--Pola.--Roman Amphitheatre.--Porta Aurea.--Triumphal
+    return to Trieste.--Retrospect of the achievements and general
+    scientific results of the Expedition.--Concluding Remarks.         449
+
+
+                       APPENDIX--Vol. ii       461
+
+
+                       APPENDIX--Vol. iii      494
+
+
+                       INDEX                   519
+
+
+                       ERRATA                  543
+
+
+
+
+                        LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+                               VOL. III.
+
+
+                                                       PAGE
+
+              1. Denizens of an Australian Forest         1
+
+              2. Maori                                   93
+
+              3. Native Fête to the Governor            199
+
+              4. The Lasso                              280
+
+              5. Station on the Panama Railway          337
+
+              6. The Austrian Eagle                     449
+
+
+           [Illustration: Denizens of an Australian Forest]
+
+
+
+
+                                 XVIII.
+
+                                 Sydney.
+
+              Stay From 5th November To 7th December, 1858.
+
+    The politico-economical importance to England of her colonies.--
+    Extraordinary growth of Sydney.--Public buildings.--Expeditions
+    of discovery into the interior of Australia.--Scientific
+    endeavours in Sydney.--Macleay's Seat at Elizabeth Bay.--Sir
+    Daniel Cooper.--Rickety Dick.--Monument to La Pérouse at Botany
+    Bay.--The Botanical Garden.--Journey by rail to Campbelton.--
+    Camden Park.--German emigrants.--Wine cultivation in Australia.--
+    Odd Fellows' Lodge at Campbelton.--Appin.--Wulongong.--Mr.
+    Hill.--The aborigines.--Kangaroo hunting.--Coal mines in the
+    Keira range.--An adventure in the woods.--Return to Sydney.--The
+    Australian club.--Excursion up Hunter River as far as Ash
+    Island,--"Nuggets."--The _Novara_ in the dry dock at Cockatoo
+    Island.--Reformation among the prisoners in the colony.--
+    Serenade by the Germans in Sydney, in honour of the expedition.--
+    Ball on board the frigate.--Political life in Sydney.--Excursion
+    for craniological purposes to Cook-river Bay, and Long Bay.--
+    Intercourse with natives.--Wool growing.--Attempts to introduce
+    the Llama and Alpaca from Bolivia.--The gold-fields of the
+    colony of New South Wales.--Is Australia the youngest or oldest
+    part of the globe?--The convict-system and transportation as a
+    punishment.--Departure from Sydney.--Barrier Island.--Arrival at
+    Huraka Gulf, New Zealand.
+
+
+Whoever wishes to form an accurate idea of the power and might of the
+British nation, and is desirous to discover the sources of the
+all-important influence the "island race" exercise over the destinies of
+humanity, should visit, not England, but her colonies in America, Africa,
+Asia, and Australia. In these he will see in full and beneficial
+operation, that system which one of the greatest of German political
+economists, the ingenious Fredrick List, recommended more than thirty
+years ago to the German Government, when he spoke of the serious detriment
+the Northern country sustained year after year by the emigration _en
+masse_ of skilled German labourers, and when he repeatedly urged to make
+agriculture under the tropics reciprocally beneficial to the manufacturing
+industry of the temperate zone.[1]
+
+England has comprehended better than Germany how to utilize the energies
+of such of her children as emigrate to distant quarters of the globe, and
+to make them subservient to her own advancement as well; she evinced the
+most anxious solicitude for these pioneers of progress, extended her
+protection to them, flung the aegis of her own power over their adopted
+home, regarding each new settlement as but an extension of the limit of
+her empire, as an enlargement of the sources whence she drew the materials
+for her industrial handicrafts, as a new market for her manufactures! In
+all parts of the inhabited earth English activity has thus displayed
+itself, busily engaged in supplying the demand for raw materials in her
+home market, by exchanging for them her own manufactures, till English
+ships have become the all but universal carriers of the commerce of the
+globe, while the English language has been adopted as the medium of
+intercommunication of all seafarers.
+
+Australia, or New Holland,[2] as it was originally termed by its first
+discoverers, proud of their nationality, furnishes of all the British
+colonies the most conspicuous and instructive example of this policy.
+England has not merely thrown open this immense continent to European
+civilization, peopled it with hundreds of thousands of her sons, and
+created a new market for herself and all navigating nations,--she has also
+in this colony furnished the solution of a psychological problem, namely,
+that it is by no means an innate natural propensity to do evil, but rather
+the force of circumstances which drives man to vice and crime, and that
+the diviner portion of his nature forthwith re-asserts itself, so soon as
+he is provided with another more favourable sphere of action, and a fair
+opportunity is offered to him of earning his livelihood in an honourable,
+independent manner by the free, unshackled development of his mental and
+physical powers.
+
+Originally founded as a penal settlement for convicts sentenced to
+transportation for long periods of years, and in fact composed at first of
+such unpromising elements, this splendid country is at present one of the
+wealthiest and most important colonies of the British Crown, and close to
+that spot where, on 28th January, 1788, 850 criminals were landed, there
+to take up their involuntary abode, there now rises in one of the numerous
+coves of the splendidly situate Bay of Port Jackson, a city of such
+magnificence, so large and so beautiful, that it has been called the
+"Queen of the South," or even, with more enthusiasm than accuracy, "Little
+London." The population of the city and environs is estimated at 93,000,
+that of this single colony at 350,000, while its trade has increased to
+such an extent that it keeps employed 1000 ships and 18,000 men, the value
+of exports of raw, and import of manufactured products, amounting for this
+one port to upwards of £12,000,000 per annum. The discovery of abundant
+gold-fields in the adjacent colony of Victoria has undoubtedly materially
+contributed to this enormous expansion, and has perceptibly increased the
+immigration, but the development of the capabilities of the land itself
+has not been less steadily increasing, wherever the population have
+pursued the surer and more solid occupation of agriculture and
+cattle-rearing. The wool growth of Australia, which in 1820 was barely 50
+tons, has since then risen to nearly 25,000 tons, rivalling in bulk and
+quality that of the Cape, and rapidly becoming a dangerous competitor with
+those countries of Europe, whose wools have hitherto commanded their own
+terms in the English market.
+
+A continent of such immeasurable natural resources, with a climate,[3]
+especially on its southern coasts, remarkable for its mildness,
+equability, and salubrity, and a population so limited[4] in proportion to
+the extent of surface, was naturally an object of deep interest for the
+members of the _Novara_ Expedition. Accordingly during their stay of
+thirty-two days they set diligently to work, not only to enlarge their
+acquaintance with the scientific idiosyncrasies of this vast portion of
+the globe, but also to examine minutely the prospects it holds out to
+German commerce and German emigration, and to investigate the influence
+which has been exercised on the development of the colony by the system of
+transporting convicts thither. And it is not less significant of the high
+repute enjoyed by the Imperial Expedition in foreign countries, as
+honourable to its members, to record, that the then Governor-General of
+New South Wales, Sir William Denison, who has since been transferred to
+the much more important and lucrative post of Governor of the Madras
+Presidency, and who enjoys no slight reputation in scientific circles as a
+conchyliologist, expressed his anxious desire that the geologist of the
+_Novara_ should thoroughly examine the geological formation of the
+province of Auckland in New Zealand, and exerted himself vigorously to
+forward the accomplishment of this project.
+
+From the German residents in Sydney, as well as from all the officials and
+the inhabitants generally, we received the utmost assistance and most
+cordial co-operation in our various inquiries. The former received the
+Expedition with a most enthusiastic welcome, and it was truly gratifying
+to learn that some of the more keenly susceptible of home-influences had
+weeks before made the beach their favourite promenade, in order that they
+might be the first to see and welcome the long-expected German man-of-war
+at her arrival! The German newspaper "_Australische Zeitung_" (published
+by a native of Grätz, named Degotardi) of November 6th was quite filled
+with advertisements and notices relating to the _Novara_, and the
+festivities which had been prepared in her honour. Every member of the
+staff received a copy on board, so that before even we set foot on shore,
+we were apprized of the old German hospitality which awaited us on our
+arrival in this the fifth quarter of the globe. As, however, it was
+imperatively necessary to have the frigate taken to the Government dock,
+in order to repair the damages she sustained in the typhoon, the
+contemplated rejoicings had to stand over for the moment, till the
+_Novara_ could come forth in renewed splendour, and was fit to give a
+proper reception to the homage intended to be offered in her honour. These
+rather extensive repairs would require three weeks to complete, and after
+the first few days had passed in making and receiving official visits, as
+also in sight-seeing in the city and environs, the greater portion of
+their stay was employed by the scientific staff in excursions into the
+interior of the colony.
+
+Sydney at present has with its suburbs attained already to the dimensions
+of a European city. Only thirty years ago there stood but a few herdsmen's
+huts, where now the visitor beholds block after block of handsome stone
+private residences, or magnificent shops. There is not one article of
+luxury or comfort which cannot be supplied here. The chief building stone
+of the locality, sandstone, is chiefly used in the erection of churches,
+public buildings, and private dwellings. The Exchange, the Bank, the
+Houses of Assembly, Government House, &c., are stately buildings erected
+in a solid, massive style, and if "Hyde Park," a treeless meadow in the
+centre of the city, by no means answers to its sounding title, the Botanic
+Garden, on the other hand, the park known as "Lady McQuarrie's Chair,"
+"Kissing-Point," and "Lovers' Walk," form promenades as delightful as any
+capital of Europe can show in such immediate proximity. Sydney, moreover,
+is amply supplied with gas and water, as well as with every means of
+conveyance that can facilitate intercourse in a large town, such as
+omnibuses, cabs, steamers, &c.
+
+The theatres hitherto, whether as regards scenery or performance, have
+hardly exceeded mediocrity, but on the other hand educational
+establishments, public libraries, and hospitals, are of singular
+excellence. It is truly marvellous, and especially makes a profound
+impression upon the denizens of old Europe, to observe what handsome,
+imposing, costly buildings have been run up among this comparatively
+youthful community. The Sydney University, founded in 1851, is built in
+the Gothic style, at an expense of £50,000, and is maintained by an annual
+grant of £5000. It is far the finest memorial erected by European
+civilization in honour of science, throughout the southern hemisphere. Its
+internal organization is somewhat analogous with that of those of the
+mother country. All the high schools of Sydney accord academic degrees in
+the various branches, and by a Royal Patent of 27th of February, 1858,
+holders of honours are raised to the same rank with those in the other
+universities of the Empire. Although only secular education is provided by
+the University, there have been founded four colleges in immediate
+proximity with each other, for the four principal religious denominations
+in the colony, Anglican, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, and Methodist, in
+which the scholars may, without prejudice to the secular character[5] of
+the University proper, receive instruction in their various beliefs. The
+erection of these four adjuncts cost about £40,000 more. At the period of
+our visit there were only 38 scholars enrolled, whose instruction cost the
+state a rather round sum. A commencement had been made with a library, a
+museum of natural history, and a numismatic collection.
+
+Besides the University, there are in Sydney a considerable number of very
+important educational establishments and public schools. The most
+strenuous exertions are made to keep the public schools in a high state of
+efficiency, and there is scarcely a hamlet, where the rising generation
+may not be instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar, and
+geography.[6]
+
+An observatory is also in course of erection, but meteorological
+observations had long since been carried on in the principal places of the
+colony, and from the favourable natural conditions of the continent for
+conducting such investigations, the results must greatly contribute to our
+acquaintance with the laws regulating atmospherical phenomena.
+
+One very deserving institution dedicated to the noble object of awakening
+a sense of the beautiful, and furthering the interests of science, is the
+Australian Museum. All that this glorious country presents of interesting
+and useful in the three great divisions of nature is here being gradually
+classified in scientific order, and displayed in elegant cases in spacious
+handsome apartments, the whole thrown open to the public for amusement and
+instruction, free of cost. Already an excellent start has been made with
+valuable collections of conchylia and birds, as well as numerous
+ethnographical specimens and fossil remains. The management of the Museum
+has been confided to the most distinguished scientific men of the
+colony,[7] and owing to the deep interest taken by these gentlemen in this
+truly national undertaking, the sphere of its activity is likely ere long
+to be extended to scientific publications, the appearance of which will be
+doubly valuable and important in a country which presents so many
+different objects for investigation and elucidation.
+
+If, however, our knowledge of Australia and its black aboriginal tribes is
+as yet very scanty, it has not assuredly been due to any cold indifference
+on the part of the new settlers for the history of a country and a race of
+men who are rapidly disappearing from the face of the country. It is
+rather to be found in the physical conditions of the continent, and
+especially in the great scarcity of perennial springs. In fact, there is
+hardly any country, with the exception of Africa, the exploration of which
+has cost the lives of so many scientific travellers as this fifth quarter
+of the world. What manly devotion, ardour, and perseverance, characterize
+such names as Leichhardt, Oxley, Kennedy, Eyre, Mitchell, Cunningham,
+Strut, Babbage, Warburton, Stuart, Gregory, Selwyn, MacDonnell, &c.! And
+it may fill a German with honest pride, that one of his race has attained
+the pinnacle of scientific eminence here! The name of Leichhardt is the
+most popular and most highly honoured of the learned names in Australia.
+Repeatedly we heard him spoken of as the Australian Humboldt. Rendered all
+the more eager by the success of his first enterprise, and stimulated by
+the splendid Governmental reward of £10,000 for his last discoveries, the
+indefatigable explorer started from Sydney in 1848, on a second journey,
+in which he intended to examine Western Australia, by crossing from
+Moreton Bay overland, to the West Coast and Port Essington. This proved to
+be the close of his earthly career. All trace of the lamented traveller
+has been lost, and even the admirably equipped expedition sent out by the
+Colonial Government, in March, 1858, under the experienced conduct of Mr.
+Gregory, on the track of Leichhardt, spent long months in fruitless
+wandering, and returned without any more positive information as to the
+destiny of the sorely missed naturalist, except the conjecture that
+Leichhardt and his companions had fallen a victim not to the murderous
+hand of the natives, but to the inhospitable nature of the region they
+were traversing. They seemed to have left the Victoria at its junction
+with the Alice (where it was thought a trace of the travellers was
+discovered in some incisions made in the bark of some trees),[8] and then
+attempted, favoured by heavy storms and showers of rain, to get into the
+flat desert country on the north-west. As, however, the rain shortly
+afterwards ceased, the unfortunate travellers not merely ran short of
+water in prosecuting their dismal journey, but were prevented from
+returning, as the small quantity precipitated by a mere meteoric
+phenomenon would be exhausted in a few days, and it is not easy to suppose
+that such hardy, zealous, and experienced explorers would have failed to
+extricate themselves, had not their courage and physical powers been
+broken down and destroyed by privations of the most terrible nature.
+
+Despite the tragic fate of Leichhardt's expedition and those of other
+explorers,[9] new expeditions are continually being set on foot for
+exploring the unknown regions of Australia in every direction, and
+although by far the larger part of the information collected consists
+rather of ghastly recitals of misery and privation endured than positive
+scientific results,[10] yet some of the more recent ones, especially those
+of Stuart and Burke, have made also important discoveries in the
+interior; and in view of the impulse which the lamentable state of
+American politics threatens to impart to cotton-growing everywhere, the
+highly fertile banks of the Murray, which with a very little labour might
+be made navigable far into the interior, may at no distant period be
+covered with numerous cotton plantations.
+
+While the younger and more adventurous spirits enter with all their heart
+and soul upon these dangerous experiences of rude hardship, there is in
+the capital of the colony a not less marked scientific vitality, and the
+valuable libraries and private collections of the Governor-general, Sir
+Wm. Denison, Mr. W. Macleay, the botanist, Dr. George Bennett, physician
+and geologist,[11] Dr. Roberts, microscopist, Messrs. W. B. Clarke and
+Selwyn, geologists, as well as their various and valuable contributions to
+science, exercise a doubly important and beneficial influence upon a
+number of contiguous states so peculiarly organized as those of Australia,
+which, first penal settlements, and then gold-fields, seemed to have been
+deprived of all those favourable conditions, which elsewhere are usually
+supposed to be requisite for the development of intellectual and
+scientific activity.
+
+Much has also been done already in Australia for the diffusion of the
+principles of social economy and the diffusion of political and linguistic
+knowledge; and the historical writings of Dr. J. D. Lang,[12] and the
+philological works of Dr. Threlkeld, both men of high attainments and of
+similar zeal in promoting the welfare of their fellow-men, furnished us
+with profound information as to the political history of the country, as
+well as the original language of the aborigines.
+
+Since the appearance of the first ethnographic works of Count Strzelecki
+there has appeared little that is new respecting the origin, migration,
+and history of the black races of Australia, and what we have to say on
+this momentous topic, whether in the result of personal intercourse or of
+information derived from other sources, we shall reserve for the narrative
+of our excursion into the interior of the colony, and our foregathering
+with the primitive inhabitants of the back settlements.[13]
+
+Among the excursions in the immediate neighbourhood of Sydney we at once
+selected a visit to the well-known naturalist Mr. Macleay, who resides at
+a beautiful estate near Elizabeth Bay. In his beautiful garden one sees
+the most interesting plants of Australia side by side with splendid
+specimens from all other parts of the world. A stroll through the
+extensive grounds derives a double interest when in company with its
+highly-cultivated proprietor, and we are the more grateful for this good
+fortune, as the venerable old gentleman lives in strict seclusion.
+
+Another very interesting visit was that paid to Sir Daniel Cooper at his
+residence on Rose Bay (_Wullurah_).[14] Sir Daniel is of humble parentage,
+but fell heir to property which made him the wealthiest man in the colony,
+and which he now dispenses with the most noble and hospitable profusion.
+During the Crimean war he subscribed £1000 per annum towards defraying the
+costs. Lately he has been elected speaker of the Legislative Assembly,
+when he was knighted by her Majesty. His villa in Rose Bay, when
+completed, promised to be surpassed by few mansions of the English
+nobility in elegance and comfort.
+
+Close to the palatial residence of the wealthiest resident of Australia,
+and clad in a filthy woollen coat, with an old hat on his head, crouches
+Rickety Dick, a wretched crippled native, the sole survivor of his tribe,
+once the lord of all this country, who now stretches out his horny hand to
+receive charity. Rickety Dick, who can only talk Australian, lives under a
+bark thatch, and leads a mendicant life, and this not owing to downright
+destitution, but because such a lazy mode of existence suits him better
+than a residence within the walls of a Poor's House. He finds himself more
+comfortable here, and cannot bear to quit the soil on which he has passed
+the greater portion of his miserable existence. Sir Daniel lets this last
+scion of a decayed race want for nothing, and gratifies every wish that
+the poor half idiot can form.
+
+One excursion which no stranger omits to make is a ride to the monument
+erected to La Pérouse at Botany Bay, a pretty good road to which passes
+through beautiful woods full of magnificent oaks, as also of _Eucalyptus_,
+or gum tree, so characteristic of Australia, _Casuarina_, or cabbage tree,
+_Xanthorrhea_, _Acacias_, and various descriptions of _Epacris_. The
+monument itself stands on an open cleared space, in what is known as
+"Frenchmen's Gardens" (because, according to tradition, the soldiers had
+raised a few vegetables here), and is a plain sandstone obelisk about 30
+feet high, standing on a pedestal and crowned with an iron globe, within
+an enclosure about 35 feet square, bounded by a parapet wall of from three
+to five feet high.
+
+The inscription, which is in French, and on the south side facing the sea,
+runs as follows:
+
+    A la Mémoire de M. de La Pérouse. Cette terre, qu'il visita en
+    1778, est la dernière d'où il a fait parvenir de ses nouvelles.
+    Erigé au nom de la France, par les soins de M. M. de
+    Bougainville et Ducampier commandant la Fregatte "La Thétis" et
+    la corvette "Espérance" en relâche au port Jackson en 1825.
+
+On the north side is an English translation of the above, and on the west
+a French translation of the English inscription on the east side.
+"Foundation laid 1825. Completed 1828."
+
+Close by this simple monument, more interesting owing to the subsequent
+fate of the renowned French navigator than by its merits as a work of art,
+is Botany Tower, a sort of look-out for the whole coast-line. This
+octangular tower stands quite by itself, and commands a magnificent and
+extensive view over Botany Bay. To the N.W. one perceives a flagstaff of
+Banks's establishment, a pleasure resort of the Sydneyites, which, on
+account of its small zoological garden, is likewise of some scientific
+interest. S.E., on the opposite side of Mud Bay, is visible the point of
+land where Captain Cook, accompanied by Banks and Solander, first trod the
+soil of Australia. Among the sandstone rocks adjoining, a brass tablet,
+with a suitable inscription, commemorates this interesting fact.
+
+The botanical garden attracted very much of the attention of the
+scientific staff. It possesses, next to that of Buitenzorg (see vol. ii.
+p. 204), the largest and most valuable collection we saw throughout our
+voyage. In addition to its splendid specimens of _coniferæ_ and the
+incomparable Dammara pine-tree; it also enjoys well-merited celebrity for
+its successful rivalry with that of Java in rare specimens of palms. The
+climate of Sydney is admirably adapted for experimenting on the
+cultivation of plants from the most various parts of the world; and while
+in one part of this garden we find the plants of every clime, which
+flourish here in great luxuriance, another portion is dedicated
+exclusively to the cultivation of Australian trees and canes. At the
+entrance stands a magnificent _Araucaria excelsa_, like a sentinel on
+guard over this singular vegetable world. A gigantic _Grevillea robusta_
+attracts the eye by the striking tint of its luxuriant orange-yellow
+blossoms, shining with indescribable charm through the dark green of the
+foliage. _Banksias_, _Casuarinas_, different species of _Callitris_,
+_Xanthorrhea_, _Proteaceæ Eucalypti_, the beautiful _Telopea
+speciosissima_, the giant lily (_Doryanthes excelsa_), and many others
+indigenous to the Australian continent, such as never meet the European's
+gaze, or, at all events, only very rarely in forcing houses, here arrest
+the attention by their towering forms, their elegant foliage, and their
+grand proportions, as compared with their brethren of northern climes. One
+species of weeping willow (_Salex Babylonica_), which grows here in the
+utmost luxuriance, has a special historic interest, as it was a shoot from
+the well-known willow that overshadowed the grave of Bonaparte at St.
+Helena. Through the obliging attention of the superintendent of the
+garden, Mr. Charles Moore, who spared neither trouble nor pains to afford
+us all the assistance in his power, our collection of Australian flora is
+exceedingly plentiful and valuable. It consists not merely of a
+comprehensive collection of Australian seeds and useful woods, but also of
+some species of living plants, forwarded to Europe in what is known as
+Ward's chest. At the same time we were successful in procuring and
+sending, in accordance with his request, to Professor Rochleder, in
+Prague, a Fellow of the Imperial Academy of Science, some 50 or 60 lbs. of
+the raw _Epacris Grandiflora_, as also a small quantity of _Casuarina
+equisetifolia_, for the purpose of chemical experiments, especially with
+regard to the relations of chemistry with the geographical distribution of
+plants.
+
+At last, on 16th November, we were able to make out our long-projected
+excursion to Campbelton, 33 miles distant, over a tolerably good, usually
+somewhat flat, country, traversed by railroad in about two hours.
+
+On our arrival at this small but most industrious village we found,
+awaiting our arrival, our hospitable friend, Sir W. Macarthur, who took us
+to his estate adjoining, called Camden Park. Sir William belongs to one of
+the most distinguished families in the colony, and enjoys the double
+reputation of being at once the most important wine-grower of Australia,
+and of having the best wine in his cellar.
+
+We drove to our host's house through very pretty scenery, and thus had a
+fresh opportunity of satisfying ourselves of the strange inaccuracy of
+former travellers, who related that the leaves in Australia were of wood
+and the stems of iron, that the bees had no stings, the birds no wings,
+and hair instead of feathers, the flowers no fragrance, the birds no
+melody, and the trees, like so many Peter Schlemils, no shadow. Although
+Nature has been guilty of some few freaks both in Australia and in New
+Zealand, and has created some extraordinary animals, such, for example, as
+the duck-billed platypus (_ornithorrhynchus paradoxus_), the ant-eater,
+the kiwi, &c., these are but exceptions, and there are here but few
+differences to be remarked in either the animal or vegetable world, such
+as should distinguish it for extravagance beyond all other countries. In
+Australia there are birds that sing, and odoriferous trees and flowers in
+great profusion, and the forests, at those places whither the axe of the
+busy settler has not yet penetrated or imparted to it a park-like aspect,
+are as dense, as thickly clothed with underwood, and as difficult to make
+one's way through, as in any other quarter of the globe under a similar
+latitude.
+
+Close beside the elegant residence of Sir William are extensive vineyards,
+to superintend which he imported German vine-dressers from the Rheingau.
+Each of these families has his own hut, a plot of garden ground, and in
+addition to rations of milk, bread, and butter, receives £25 per annum
+wages. When these good folks heard that strangers, compatriots of theirs,
+were among them, with whom they could converse in their mother-tongue, a
+dozen or so at once assembled to bid us welcome. Most of these betrayed a
+certain amount of hesitation in expressing themselves in their own
+language, and, like the same class in Pennsylvania, whenever they were at
+a loss for a word supplied it by its English equivalent. There resulted
+from this a most comical jargon, sometimes most grotesque in its
+eccentricity, as, for instance, when, on our remarking to one of these
+vine-dressers who had been in Australia for ten years that he seemed to
+have quite forgotten his German, he replied, with an air of outraged
+national dignity, "Oh no! _wir_ keep it _immer_ in exercise."
+
+The entire number of Germans in New South Wales is estimated (in 1858) at
+7000. They are usually settled on the larger rivers, such as Hunter,
+Clarence, Brisbane rivers, where they have small farms on the alluvial
+soil, or are engaged in agriculture, or vine cultivation. Their industry,
+perseverance, and frugality soon make them independent and well-to-do. We
+were told of one poor peasant of the Rhenish districts, named
+Frauenfelder, who arrived here from Germany, in 1849, with twelve
+daughters, and settled on Clarence river as a vine-dresser. After ten
+years of unwearied activity he became a prosperous man, got all his
+daughters well married, and now owns one of the most flourishing
+settlements in the entire colony.[15] A German enjoys in Australia, after
+five years' residence, the same political rights as the English. After
+twelve months he becomes naturalized and may possess land; after three
+years he may vote; and after five years' residence he may become a member
+of Parliament. Should there be anything specially affecting German
+interests in the colony, they can at least influence one vote in
+Parliament. The reason why the number of Germans in Australia is yet so
+small is undoubtedly owing to the high price of land. The same quantity
+which can be purchased in the United States for one dollar costs £1 here,
+and this solely because the Colonial Government contracted a loan in
+former days with the wealthier colonists, for which they pledged the land,
+which was taken at £1 per acre; this has never been paid off, so that the
+mortgagee is virtually the proprietor of the soil, without Government
+being in a position to profit by its contract or get rid of its
+liabilities. It thus has become necessary for them to enhance the value of
+the land, and this seems to be the chief difficulty in the way of lowering
+the acreage price, to the manifest encouragement of emigration and the
+cultivation of the soil.
+
+Sir William conducted us, now on horseback, now on foot, now in his
+carriage, over his extensive domain, and did not fail to acquaint us with
+the details of everything that could be interesting or useful. Wine
+cultivation in Australia, though only first raised into importance in
+1838, has made such rapid strides, and has proved so profitable, that in
+no long time England, hitherto so deficient in wines, will be enabled
+through her colonies to vie with the choicest vintages of Europe; for
+those of Australia and the Cape are little inferior even now in body and
+_bouquet_ to those of Spain, and it is only the smallness of the quantity
+hitherto manufactured, and almost entirely reserved for private
+consumption, that has stood in the way of their being much more
+extensively dealt in European markets. The entire product of wine in 1858
+was 60,000 gallons, but the reason why the quantity is so limited is not
+in the unsuitability of the land devoted to it, but the great difficulty
+of procuring labour, and of getting it at the precise moment when it is
+most wanted. As often as the journals launch forth upon the discovery of
+some fresh gold-field, the field hands forthwith strike work, and make off
+to the "diggings." On such occasions many thousand men are suddenly
+smitten with the gold fever, and their ordinary avocations are at once
+abandoned. We saw on one occasion a number of half-finished houses, which
+had been left in that incomplete state by the thirst for gold of the
+labourers, who are omnipotent here. "There are no greater tyrants than the
+labourers of this country," was Sir William's pithy remark, as he looked
+sadly on their work, abandoned unfinished, and the half-cultivated fields
+around.
+
+Our host made us taste various descriptions of wine, which in every
+respect greatly resembled sherry, while a redder sort strongly reminded us
+of Muscat. Even in Australia, the grape has already been attacked by that
+mysterious disease which has done such mischief in various parts of
+Europe, and especially in Madeira, but its noxious effects have as yet
+been confined to a few species only. Much damage is occasionally done by a
+species of worm, for the extirpation of which boys are engaged at from
+1_s._ to 2_s._ per diem. The vintage in Australia usually begins in March
+and lasts till far on in April.
+
+We passed a short hour very agreeably in Sir William's study, which
+comprises a library full of valuable particulars as to the history of the
+country. At every moment the traveller from long-settled countries, feels
+an emotion of surprise at the numerous and costly collections of rare
+works and valuable cabinets of natural history he finds in a country where
+he might expect that the universal rush after earthly dross must render
+such pursuits valueless. The fact is, that in forming an estimate of the
+country he is almost certain to omit taking into account that, in addition
+to the convicts and gold-diggers, there have come out hither a
+considerable number of young men of the highest circles of English
+society, who, provided by Government with tracts of land for settling
+upon, are in hopes of more speedily attaining fortune and position than in
+England, where the younger sons of the aristocracy are in too many
+instances apt to lead a sauntering life of dependency. Such cadets of
+leading families have, since the commencement of the present century,
+settled in considerable numbers in various parts of Australia, and have
+introduced with them that taste for combined elegance and comfort, which
+the foreign traveller in that country has such reason to feel surprise at,
+as well as to be thankful for.
+
+After our visit to Camden Park we spent the rest of the day at Campbelton,
+making preparations to continue our excursion as far as Appin and
+Wulongong, in the district of Illawara. From Campbelton to Appin is a
+distance of 12 miles, by a tolerably wide level road, partly through
+cultivated farms, partly through forest scenery. We encountered but one
+vehicle the whole distance, containing a family dressed in their best, to
+accompany a body to the grave--probably some father or sister. "A funeral
+in the bush," said our driver to us with a somewhat serious face, as he
+called our attention to the cart moving on slowly through the stillness of
+the wood. In a simple little forest hut, whose inhabitants are engaged in
+avocations that necessarily imply the closest daily intimacy, the stroke
+of death must fall with redoubled severity, as he strikes down some of the
+dearest and best beloved.
+
+When we reached Appin the day was already too far spent to admit of our
+reaching Wulongong, the end of our journey, the same evening. Uninviting
+as was the filth of the little village ale-house where we alighted, we had
+to make the best of its accommodations, as it was the only inn in the
+place. The dialect which now saluted our ears unmistakeably proved that we
+were domiciled in an Irish house. The people were by no means poor, they
+possessed an extensive "run" near the hotel, but it is part of the
+character of Irish settlers to be superior to the virtues of cleanliness
+and order. Quite close at hand began the forest, a visit to which was
+rewarded by the capture of several species of birds peculiar to New South
+Wales, among others the laughing jack-ass (_Dacelo gigantea_) and the
+beautiful blue-black atlas bird (_Kitta holosericea_).
+
+The following morning we resumed our journey through lofty, dense, and
+magnificent forests, in which the vast trunks of gum trees imparted their
+special character to the scenery. One of the most beautiful points of view
+in this delightful drive was when we crossed Sir Thomas Mitchell's, or
+Broughton's, Pass, which has been cut through the gigantic rocks of a
+mountain-range at considerable expense and labour, presenting at every
+turn a fresh and more beautiful grouping of rock and mountain fringed with
+fir and gum, reminding us somewhat of the romantic savage solitudes of the
+Alps.
+
+On our way to the coast we passed but one solitary farm, consisting of a
+couple of wretched wooden huts, thatched with bark, standing on a clearing
+named Bargo, where the mail-boy on his way from Appin changes horses, and
+remains for a few hours over-night. We merely took some coffee, and were
+not a little surprised at finding it presented to us in a fashion in
+strong contrast with the rude exterior of this forest hut. Sheffield and
+Wedgwood wares in the bush, and English ships constructed of Australian
+timber--such is the secret of English political economy!
+
+Not far from Bargo we enter upon troublesome sand wastes, at one point of
+which the traveller enjoys a wonderfully extensive prospect over the
+Illawara lake, the Keira range, and the sea, especially if, as was our
+case, he is accompanied by intelligent _ciceroni_ acquainted with the
+country, otherwise he is likely to pass this little elevation, only a few
+paces from the road, little dreaming of the magnificent landscape which he
+is missing.
+
+As soon as we got to the coast we once more encountered fan-palms,
+tree-ferns, and other representatives of tropical vegetation, the last few
+hours of our road towards the little port lying through scenes of
+Eden-like loveliness. About 3 P.M. of the 18th November we reached
+Wulongong.
+
+We again fell in here with Sir William Macarthur, who had undertaken a
+very arduous ride through the forests around Wulongong for the purpose of
+collecting some tree-ferns, which he intended sending to England. Few
+nations have such a thorough appreciation of nature as the English, or
+exert themselves so unselfishly, by personal observation and indefatigable
+energy, to enlarge the acquaintance of mankind with natural history in all
+its different ramifications. Men in every grade of life take a pleasure in
+hunting out rare species of plants, animals, or minerals, in the remotest
+districts of the globe, which they transmit to their own country, or
+publish such observations respecting them as may make them available for
+science, handicraft-industry, or commerce. By these incidental voluntary
+contributions to the general stock, England now possesses scientific
+collections such as hardly any nation can hope to keep up short of an
+enormous expense. These endeavours, it is true, are considerably favoured
+and supported by the fact of British colonies being scattered over the
+entire earth, but even in this respect it must be conceded that it is
+through her own meritorious, unselfish policy that circumstances thus
+combine to aid her efforts in this peculiar direction.
+
+Wulongong is a hamlet consisting of a few streets, and its principal
+resources seem to be in the visits of the Sydneyites, who come hither for
+sea-bathing. Already the existence of several hotels, which, considering
+the size of the place, are unusually elegant and extensive, but at the
+same time extremely costly, shows that Wulongong must be rather
+extensively patronized by the inhabitants of the capital, with which it
+has regular communication by small steamers, making the voyage in a few
+hours. Unfortunately Wulongong has no convenient harbour, but only a small
+exposed roadstead, rendered barely safe for a few small vessels by a stone
+bulwark, so that in the event of rough weather the landing and embarkation
+of visitors is attended with much discomfort.
+
+We alighted at the Brighton Hotel, prettily situated on the sea-coast, and
+met here our newly-acquired Australian friend, Mr. Edward Hill, a
+brother-in-law of Sir D. Cooper's, who, with his usual kindness and
+forethought, had made all possible preparations for ensuring that our
+further flying visit to the Illawara district should be one of the most
+memorable episodes of our stay in the colony. Mr. Hill, an Australian by
+birth, may, through the peculiar circumstances of his life, his striking
+observations on and profound sympathy with the blacks, be considered one
+of those most profoundly acquainted with that remarkable race, whose
+idiom, as spoken in this district, he can converse in with the utmost
+fluency. For this gentleman's attention we were indebted not merely for
+repeated opportunities of intercourse with the natives, but also for the
+excitement, to us thoroughly novel, of a kangaroo-hunt.
+
+A number of natives were living in an improvised sort of settlement
+outside the town, and camped around the forest under low sheds of bark. At
+a little distance off Mr. Hill uttered a sharp, shrill whistle, which was
+immediately responded to from the forest. Presently two young natives made
+their appearance, and shook hands with Mr. Hill. An old man with grey hair
+remained cowering upon the ground without stirring. There were altogether
+four men, two women, and two children, all pretty well made, their skin of
+a black or dull brown hue, broad nostrils, and black crisp hair, which,
+however, had nothing woolly in its texture. One of the women carried a
+child, whose features and complexion were obviously the result of white
+parentage on one side. However, she did not seem, as is the case with
+other races that are proud of their colour, to be looked down upon on that
+account by her own race, who, so low is their standard of morality, rather
+consider it an honour for a black woman to bear a child to a white. Men
+and women alike showed on their skins the protuberant cicatrices of
+artificial incisions, two or three inches long, chiefly on the breast,
+arms, and back.
+
+All the male natives with whom we conversed had had the upper central
+teeth knocked out, such being one distinguishing mark of their having
+attained the dignity of manhood!
+
+The abundance of mustachio and beard of the Australian savages is a marked
+peculiarity, which none of their cognate races east or west have in common
+with them. We were also told that they value the beard as their highest
+ornament, and make it one of the great objects of their life to tend it.
+No man of their race dare marry or kill an emu till he can show a beard,
+to which also great virtue is attached in battle. None of these natives
+understand the use of the Boomerang.[16]
+
+The natives around Port Jackson and in the Illawara district have,
+generally speaking, little of the aboriginal about them, and their abject
+misery and addiction to drink make them pitiable and disgusting objects;
+for their present hopeless state is in great measure attributable to their
+contact with civilization, which has made them neither intelligent nor
+industrious. The natives, however, of the banks of the Murray, Clarence,
+and Brisbane rivers, though of the same race, are of a very different
+appearance. They keep up the habits of their ancestors, and seldom come in
+contact with civilization, and even then only with its pioneers, the
+squatters and shepherds. Among these the customs of circumcision and
+unlimited polygamy are universal, each man having as many wives as he can
+steal or support. Owing, however, to their nomad life, this system is
+practised to but a limited extent. Infanticide, especially of female
+children, is of very frequent occurrence. Abortion is also so frequently
+practised that they have a word (_Mibra_) to express it! On the other
+hand, we read in Count Strzelecki's valuable work that "the female natives
+after illicit commerce with a white man become barren for their own race,"
+which, according to all unbiased observers, is a complete delusion.
+
+In no part of Australia do the natives cultivate the soil. Nomad as is
+their mode of life, they live almost exclusively on the products of the
+chase, or of the deep, according as they live in the interior or on the
+coast. Lizards, snakes, and insects, and some few roots and resinous
+substances, form the delicacies of their primitive cookery.
+
+Their dwellings are either natural cavities in the rock, or a few pieces
+of bark fixed into the ground at either end, and arched upwards in the
+middle. Throughout New South Wales the custom prevails, when a native dies
+young, of burying him under a shallow mound of earth, only the elders
+possessing the privilege of being consumed with fire. In the latter case
+the corpse of the deceased, with his hunting and fishing implements, is
+placed on a pile of dry wood about three feet high, with his face towards
+the rising sun. This is covered by the surviving relatives with straw and
+wood, who then set fire to the funeral pyre. Some days later the ashes and
+calcined bones are collected and burnt. The name of the dead is never
+again pronounced, any individual of the same tribe, who may also happen to
+bear it, being compelled to exchange it for another.
+
+The prevalence of cannibalism is a well-established fact among the natives
+of the north. M. Angas, amongst other interesting particulars, mentioned
+one case, where a boy died in the vicinity of Moreton Bay, whose head and
+skin, according to the savage habits of the natives, were separated from
+the rest of his body and dried over a fire. The father and mother were
+both present and uttered loud cries. The heart, liver, and entrails were
+divided among the warriors, who carried away with them pieces stuck on
+their bone-pointed spears; while the upper part of the thigh (apparently
+the tit-bit) was roasted and eaten by the parents themselves! The skin,
+the skull, and the bones were, on the other hand, carefully packed up and
+taken away with them in their grass sacks. It is not unusual for a mother
+to devour her own child, that she may thereby regain the strength which
+the fruit of her womb has abstracted from her! When a warrior of a hostile
+tribe falls into their hands they celebrate his sacrifice with savage
+glee, by rubbing their bodies with the fat around their victim's kidneys,
+by which means they believe they strengthen their muscles and inspire
+their hearts with courage. In the southern parts of Australia the natives
+use human skulls as drinking cups, and one instance is on record where a
+portion of a human skeleton was habitually used by an entire race as a
+tool. Each woman has one of these bone calabashes, which she usually has
+hollowed-out and manufactured herself. In the tolerably comprehensive
+ethnographic collection of the Australian Museum we saw several examples
+of these hideous drinking vessels! With respect to the idea of a future
+life, or the immortality of the soul, the natives seem to have very
+contracted notions, principally confined to a superstitious dread of evil
+spirits, and to the very singular notion that after death they are
+converted into whites, and that the Englishmen who now people their
+hunting grounds are the spirits of their ancestors thus transformed!
+
+At various parts of the colony, especially among the outlying mountains
+and bare rocks adjoining Middle Harbour, Camp Cove, Point Piper, Mossman's
+Cove, Lang's Cove, &c., the eye is attracted by numbers of rude sculptures
+hewn in the stone, which usually represent terrestrial objects, such as
+kangaroos, emus, flying-squirrels, fish, tortoises, and, above all,
+numerous representations of natives performing the _Coróborry_. This is a
+sort of war-dance, in which those who participate usually paint their
+bodies with white lines, like a skeleton, and seen through the obscurity
+of night, leaping around a faint fire, have the appearance of a set of
+dead bodies dancing.
+
+If we ask any of the black men of the present generation the significance
+of these rock sculptures, they usually reply, in their broken English,
+"Black fellow make 'em long time ago," and on being pressed more
+particularly as to their age, they throw up their hands and faces, shut
+their eyes, and say, "Murrey, murrey, murrey, long time ago!"
+
+The great variety of theories commonly received as to the supposed origin
+of this singular race of men have done little to dispel the obscurity
+which prevails as to the real _stirps_ of which the Australian race is a
+branch. Writers who are fond of squaring facts with pre-conceived theories
+maintain that the first inhabitants of Australia came from Eastern Asia or
+the Indian Archipelago, and passing Torres Straits gradually overspread
+the entire Australian continent. Nay, some even go so far as to maintain
+that there exists to this time in the interior of some of the islands of
+the Malay Archipelago a race of men identical with the aborigines of
+Australia. And it certainly is a remarkable fact, that most of the
+Australian war-songs, dances, &c., have been diffused from north to south,
+although it does seem venturesome to deduce from this single circumstance
+a migration from Eastern Asia. Others again hold (such, namely, as
+Prichard, Wappaus, Burdach, &c.), that the aborigines are of the same race
+as that inhabiting New Guinea and New Caledonia, and thus make them of the
+same stock as the Australasian negro. Lastly, a modern naturalist, Mr.
+James Brown, who lived sixteen years amongst the blacks, considers it not
+improbable that some Malay crews (for since time immemorial it is known
+that the Malays have been acquainted with, and visited the northern
+shores of, Australia) had been, by shipwreck or some similar calamity,
+cast away on the coast of the mainland, or on some of the islands near
+Torres Straits, and had thus become the first involuntary settlers of the
+north of Australia. This increasing population gradually spread over the
+interior, and when after some centuries this people had traversed the
+continent and arrived at the ocean on its further side, they had already
+lost all recollection of their Pelagic origin, and were no longer capable
+of deriving any advantage from the sea spread before their astonished
+gaze. Strange to say, the black populations of Australia seem to be the
+sole savage race inhabiting the coast of an ocean, who possess no means of
+transport by water, and are unable to swim! Very possibly the recent
+expeditions into the interior, undertaken with such ardour and attention
+to details, may throw some new light upon these aborigines, but equally,
+if not more, probable is it, that the entire race may have disappeared
+from the earth before any reliable facts can be ascertained respecting
+their origin, their migrations, or their history.
+
+The morning after our arrival at Wulongong, and our first acquaintance
+with the natives, we made an excursion, under the tutelage of Mr. White,
+to Balgonie Farm, to hunt kangaroo in the forests of the neighbourhood. It
+was not, however, the large species (_Macropus Major_) we were to hunt,
+which sometimes attains a height of six feet, or even more, but a smaller
+kind known as the Wallaby (_Halmaturus ualabatus_). The kangaroo proper
+have long since retreated before civilization, and are now only found in
+the recesses of the forest, hundreds of miles inland. The various
+participators in the hunt were posted at certain distances in one of the
+splendid forests, stretching between the Bellambi-Keira and Kemla ranges
+of hills, while the blacks who accompanied us set forth to drive the game
+towards us, assisted by their Dingoes, a kind of dog usually supposed to
+be originally of European race. The blacks use the term "Dingo"
+promiscuously for every description of dog, whereas the regular wild dog,
+or rather the dog that runs wild in Australia, is called in the native
+tongue "Warrigul," and is of no particular breed, but seems rather a
+mongrel descendant of the sheep dog.
+
+The hunt was not very successful, and of some ten or twelve started by the
+"beaters," only two were killed. Although one can discern the Wallaby at
+some distance by its plashing tramp, so that it seems but to need a glance
+of the eye to bring it down as it flies past on its hind legs, followed
+close by the dogs, it yet needs great activity and precision of aim to hit
+the nimble animal as it hops swiftly past.
+
+Yet though we were rewarded with such poor sport, our stay among the
+splendid woods of the Keira range sufficiently repaid us. The most varied
+and luxuriant forms of vegetation, changing at every step, almost
+transcend the wanderer's power of description by their marvellous and
+enrapturing beauty. Some portions of the forest landscape, where splendid
+tree-ferns and gigantic gum trees, enveloped in the folds of the Liana,
+from which in its turn depended exquisite parasitic plants, reminded us of
+the brilliant profusion of the tropics. Not less peculiar and uncommon
+than the vegetation were the sounds that struck our ear from amid the
+semi-obscure green covert, without our eyes being able to distinguish the
+singers. And so deceptive are some of these, that one almost involuntarily
+starts as the loud crack resounds close to his ear of the _Phsophodes
+crepitans_, known to colonists as the "Coachman's whip," or the _Myzantha
+Garrula_, or bell-bird, sounds its bell-like note.
+
+During our stroll we came upon several farms, plain wooden huts covered
+with the glutinous bark of the gum tree, whose impoverished exterior gave
+little promise of the comfort to be found within, and pleasantest of all
+was the ready and heartfelt hospitality. Hardly had we set our foot within
+a hut, ere all the members of the family bestirred themselves to bring
+milk and butter, eggs and bread, of which they pressed us to partake. In
+each we visited there was no lack of beautiful china, elegantly carved
+wine glasses, and Sheffield table cutlery, while the walls were decorated
+with elegant engravings and wood-cuts. The bread was usually the national
+institution, known as "Damper," which is simply some meal and water well
+mixed and heated in warm ashes. It is very palatable, and besides the
+simplicity of its preparation, the meal well kneaded being baked for an
+hour as aforesaid, it possesses the advantage of continuing for a
+considerable time fit for use.
+
+Our return to Sydney was fixed for the following morning. We were desirous
+of catching the steamer which plies from Wulongong every second day, as
+our Commodore, and several of the scientific staff, had received an
+invitation for the evening at Sydney. As the steamer would first of all
+start towards noon from Keiama, we employed the hours of morning in a
+visit to the coal mines of the Keira, and hunting in the adjoining
+forests. Coal is very abundant in these mines, and is wheeled along a
+level shaft in small waggons as far as the high road, whence it is
+conveyed by regular carts to the city. About 200 of these are brought up
+every day.
+
+Unfortunately our plan for returning by the steamer fell through, as a
+high wind and heavy sea rendered the entrance of the boat into the harbour
+a very problematical business. Accordingly, as the boat had not made her
+appearance by 4 P.M., there was nothing for it but to return by coach to
+Appin, so as to enable us to reach Sydney in time for our invitation. The
+cool of evening began now to be felt among the lofty steep hills, over
+which lies the road to the interior. At first all went well, and the early
+part of our journey was performed in all comfort and at a rapid pace. But
+we soon came to some very steep parts of the road, where our tired horses
+gave out, and could not proceed one step further. By this time we had left
+the coach, and went on on foot, shooting and collecting as we proceeded,
+and admiring the beauty of the landscape around. The coach had stuck fast
+half-way up a steep ridge, while the horses took no heed of the servants'
+flagellation. The coarse language in which Mr. Croker, the very type in
+this respect of an English driver, exhorted Billy and Sam (so were our two
+steeds named), and the frequent song of the whip, availed nothing; the
+animals would not budge a step; so we had to lend our assistance in
+person, and move the vehicle a few paces farther to a less dangerous
+position.
+
+Further progress, under the circumstances, was out of the question. It was
+resolved to send man and horse back to Wulongong to engage additional
+horses, and continue our walk as far as the huts at Bargo, the next
+station, 18 miles distant. _En route_, or at Bargo, it was supposed our
+coachman would overtake us with fresh horses. As we were by no means sure
+of our road, we took the precaution of carrying our most necessary
+effects, in the event of our having to pass the night in the bush.
+
+It was 6.30 P.M., and the sun was going down, only the extreme summits of
+the trees catching and reflecting his golden beams. On we went, our
+excitement stimulated by the prospect of an adventure. Gradually the
+darkness of night enveloped the wood. Our path became uncertain. Even the
+full splendour of the moon, as she rose in the east, and darted her silver
+rays through the gloom of the _Eucalypti_, casting gigantic shadows on the
+sandy soil, rather tended to confuse us amid this labyrinth than enable
+us to extricate ourselves. We held on however till 1 A.M., and were just
+on the eve of camping for the night to await the break of day, when all at
+once we saw before us the stately fence which surrounds Bargo. With
+quickened steps we made for the lonely little farm, and hammered at its
+closed door. A tremendous chorus of barking dogs was the not very
+propitious welcome of guests arriving at such an unseasonable hour. After
+repeated knocking the door of the hut was opened; an old man appeared in
+his night-shirt on the threshold, and gruffly inquired who we were and
+what we wanted? The reply was not difficult. Our having passed that way
+before, when we had scraped acquaintance with the old gentleman, likewise
+stood us in good stead. We were most cordially received, and, despite the
+lateness of the hour, preparations were at once made to prepare something
+for us to eat. Tea, coffee, eggs, fresh butter, and damper were carried
+into the sitting-room, and as far as was practicable sleeping quarters
+were prepared in the little hut.
+
+The only ill result of our nocturnal fatigues was that we rose late, the
+sun being high in the heavens ere we awoke. We were just about to ask for
+our driver, when he made his appearance, and told us he was ready to
+proceed. He had paid hire for fresh horses at Wulongong, and hoped to make
+the rest of the journey without further interruption. While they were
+being put to, we re-entered the hut, and now perceived the small space
+within which ourselves, three persons, had passed the night on benches,
+chairs, and tables. The light of day did not belie the hospitality of our
+reception. The furniture was rude but clean. What most surprised us was
+the number of massive books which stood on a small shelf, carefully
+arranged. They were by much the most valuable part of the furniture, and
+the proprietor seemed to be aware of this. The books had been the property
+of a schoolmaster, who had exchanged their spiritual contents against
+spirits of another nature. The host gave "tick" to the schoolmaster, and
+thus gradually possessed himself of the entire collection, no
+inconsiderable number, of interesting works, which now passed from hand to
+hand on holidays or after the day's work was over; the desire for
+knowledge of the settlers in this primitive Australian forest thus finding
+ample room to expand itself in many useful and learned particulars of
+foreign lands and peoples.
+
+Towards 1 P.M. we reached Campbelton. At the hotel where we alighted was
+installed a lodge of Odd Fellows, newly instituted. The first visible
+result of its organization was almost universal intoxication! In the
+streets and the public-houses, everywhere crowds of drunken men were
+staggering about. Every third house in Campbelton is a whisky shop!
+Throughout the colony the consumption of ardent spirits has reached an
+alarming height, being estimated at £6 per head of the entire population
+annually! Besides the spirits manufactured in the colony itself, New South
+Wales imports annually £1,000,000 of wine, beer, brandy, and other
+descriptions of liquor; a greater consumption of spirits than in any
+other country of the globe![17]
+
+The rest of our return journey being by rail was performed in two hours.
+The telegraph is in full activity between Campbelton and Sydney, the
+charge for a message of ten words being two shillings, and two-pence for
+each succeeding word. Towards 6 P.M. we reached Sydney, driving in the
+present instance to the Australian club, where accommodation had in the
+kindest manner been provided for us.
+
+While one section of our staff had been making the excursion southwards
+which we have just described, among the forests and barrens of the
+Illawara district, another party visited the sources of Hunter River and
+the Newcastle coal-fields, whence they returned laden with botanical,
+mineralogical, entomological, and palæontological collections, samples of
+coal, fossil plants, and specimens of the Silurian formations.
+
+The most interesting episode in their excursion was their stay on Ash
+Island, a small isle in the Hunter River, the property of A. W. Scott,
+Esq., M.L.A., who has settled there with his family. Two of his daughters
+are hardly more conspicuous by their loveliness and grace than by their
+profound acquaintance with entomology, which they pursue with the utmost
+zeal. In addition to geological and conchyliological collections, they
+have also a carefully classed collection of insects and butterflies, and
+at the time of our visit were about publishing a large work upon
+Australian butterflies. They also have the lepidopterous _fauna_ of New
+South Wales in great variety and in every stage of metamorphosis, in many
+cases from the very _ovum_, all copiously explained, and their
+distinguishing characteristics placed beneath in a series of above one
+hundred tables, which the two ladies, who are accomplished artists both in
+drawing and painting, have themselves lithographed and coloured.
+
+An excursion was also made from Ash Island to the Sugar Loaf, 3288 feet
+high, the loftiest mountain in the district. As they had to do 40 miles in
+one day, the party sprang to their horses as soon as day dawned, and,
+accompanied by two settlers of Ash Island, laid themselves out for the
+day's work. First they ascended Hunter River for about a couple of miles,
+which a little further on headed to the northward, while the cavalcade
+kept to the left towards the hills. The forest was so clear of underwood,
+that one could almost ride along as though in a park. Despite the numerous
+traces of extensive fires, it seemed to have been but little altered by
+these from its primitive wildness. Occasionally huts and cultivated land
+were passed; the great proprietors usually give these runs to be
+cultivated as farms, or make them serve for their cattle, under their own
+drovers. In winter the cattle run at will in the "Bush," as the settlers
+call this characteristic scenery, wherever they can find the best pasture
+for themselves. In summer again, when the great heat dries everything up,
+they are foddered with hay under shelter. The sunny forest consists of
+_Eucalypti_, _Melaleuca_, and other _myrtaceæ_, splendid _casuarinas_,
+_Grevilleæ_, _Banksiæ_, the native pear (_Hylomelum_), the highly prized
+Warratah (_Telopea speciosissima_), the all but shadowless _Acacia_, the
+indigenous cherry (_Exocarpus_), beautiful _Papilionaceæ_, and very
+peculiar _Stylidiæ_, &c. All these were old acquaintances however of the
+Austrian naturalists, who greeted them in this their native soil with
+redoubled interest and astonishment. Covered with blossoms they grew in
+wild unchecked profusion all around their path, so that the very horses
+frequently trod them under foot, scenting the air with an aroma which in
+Europe can only be obtained by lavish expenditure. Numerous birds, chiefly
+parrots, circled round the tops of the trees; the crow-like _Strepera
+graculina_, the bald-headed _Tropidorhynchus corniculatus_ the "Jack ass"
+(_Dacela gigantea_), so highly regarded and carefully tended by the
+colonists on account of its admonishing them of the presence of poisonous
+serpents, quantities of chaffinches (_frigellidæ_), the fan-tailed
+flycatcher (_Muscipiada_), the _Climacteris_, which runs up and down the
+trunks of the trees like our own wood-pecker, the monitor lizard, four or
+five feet in length, which flits rapidly to and fro among the trees, the
+prickly chameleon, and beautiful specimens of fossil helix, all furnished
+a rich reward for the zoologist.
+
+After a ride of three hours the party began to approach a steep wall of
+rock, where the horses were left, as they had now to prosecute their
+journey on foot, till at length they came to a confused mass of coarse,
+breccia-like sandstone, constituting what is known as the Sugar Loaf,
+whence they had to toil laboriously among the rocks till they reached the
+summit. A marvellous panorama was spread out before them; the whole county
+of Northumberland, with its green forest clothing, was stretched out at
+their feet in all its sunlit splendour. To the left far in the distance
+was visible the township of Maitland, and the navigable part of the Hunter
+River, which wound along like a silver band till it was lost in the
+distance, where it fell into the Pacific, on whose seething billows the
+stately ships looked like small white specks on a confused, uncertain
+back-ground. Far in the distance to the right, half concealed by the
+forest, was Lake Macquarie. The colonial members of the party described
+the latter as very difficult of access, but as a veritable paradise for
+the sportsman, since it is frequented by black swans in hundreds, the
+Australian stork, curlews, the hook-billed creeper, cormorants, and an
+infinite variety of water-fowl. The Blue Mountains formed the back-ground
+of this splendid landscape. The whole neighbourhood is pretty well settled
+and cultivated. Here and there wreaths of blue smoke indicated where the
+huts of industrious colonists lay concealed in the forest. Their
+conductors were not a whit behind the strangers in their appreciation of
+the panoramic effect; they had never scaled the summit before, although
+the elder had lived 15 years at Ash Island, and had often been as far as
+the top of the first rocky ascent in search of strayed cattle.
+
+Lost in delighted contemplation of the beauties of nature, no account was
+made of the passage of time, so that part of the return journey had to be
+made in the twilight. It was a delightful, clear, moonlight night. The
+deep stillness in nature was only occasionally broken by the shrill cry of
+the curlew (_Numenius arquata_), from the neighbouring swamps, or the
+rustling of Wallabies disturbed by the tread of the advancing horsemen.
+Buried in a sort of dreamy charm that could find no utterance, the riders
+left their horses to choose their own pace over the sward, hardly able to
+realize that they were indeed under the unclouded brilliancy of an
+Australian sky, traversing the forests haunted by the timid kangaroo and
+the swift but shy emu.
+
+Unfortunately it was found impossible, owing to want of time, to visit the
+Blue Mountains and the gold regions around Bathurst. We had to content our
+curiosity as to the products of the gold-fields by examining the nuggets
+exhibited by the fortunate finders in the jewellers' shops of George
+Street, Sydney, and the particulars furnished in the daily papers of the
+well-authenticated riches of the gold-fields of the oldest colony. During
+our stay a lump of gold was discovered in the Western district weighing
+150 lbs., and worth £6000. Such instances of good fortune only tend to
+raise fallacious hopes of being equally fortunate in the breasts of
+thousands of men. Shortly before our arrival, on the news being
+promulgated of the new Eldorado in the north near Port Curtis on the
+Fitzroy, not less than 16,000 men flocked thither from New South Wales
+and Victoria. This enormous influx of human beings to a district totally
+unprovided with either shelter or provisions for such a horde resulted in
+unutterable suffering. People had sold their goods in Sydney for whatever
+they would fetch, in order to be the first in the gold-field with the
+requisite implements. Many lost their entire means of support, having even
+sacrificed the most favourable prospects in the eager thirst for gold and
+sudden prosperity. The streets of Melbourne and Sydney were filled with
+gold-seekers, who, laden with blankets, household utensils, axes, and
+spades, were laying down their last farthing for passage tickets, and
+rushed breathlessly to the ships which were to convey them to the
+newly-discovered gold-field. The voyage began under the most rose-coloured
+anticipations of brilliant success. But scarcely a month later came most
+depressing intelligence from Port Curtis. Here was a set of lawless
+desperadoes, deceived in their expectations, without food, clothing, or
+even the object of their search, in a remote part of the country, with the
+hot season coming on, and no means of returning! Men were seen selling for
+a few shillings implements that had cost pounds. The whole road from the
+supposed gold-fields to the landing-quay was strewed with diggers, who,
+footsore and fainting under the heat, were toiling towards the coast,
+where they rushed in wild confusion on board the ships which were to
+convey the victims back to the colonies they had left at so much sacrifice
+and with so extravagant expectations!
+
+It was only the energetic measures taken by Government, by whom provisions
+were forthwith despatched to the wretched make-shifts of settlements
+improvised on the spur of the moment, and gave numbers free passages to
+Sydney and Melbourne, that prevented some serious disaster. A few months
+later the place so suddenly populous had become once more a despised
+solitude, and Rockhampton had resumed its wonted state of a hamlet
+consisting of two or three houses. In Sydney, however, the famished crowd
+seeking after work kept wandering about, thankfully accepting the soup
+which the charity of their fellow-citizens supplied free of charge.
+
+During these various excursions of the scientific staff, the frigate had,
+thanks to the kindness of H.E. Sir Wm. Denison, been taken into the
+Government dry dock at Cockatoo Island in order to facilitate her
+extensive repairs. The _Novara_ was, as the chief engineer himself
+allowed, the largest man-of-war which had ever been docked, not merely in
+Port Jackson, but anywhere in the Eastern hemisphere.
+
+The Fitzroy dry dock, which had not long been completed, is 300 feet in
+length (since lengthened another 100 feet), 60 feet wide, and will
+accommodate vessels drawing 19 feet water. In preparing this splendid
+structure, which took eight years to complete, a huge rock 50 feet high
+was first blasted, the excavation began on the land-side, and on its
+completion a gate opened towards the sea. All being right thus far, a
+subaqueous mine was sprung by means of large diving-bells, the
+excavations being charged with two or three lbs. of powder. A steam-engine
+of 40-horse power pumps the dock dry,[18] besides being geared to set in
+motion the various machinery in the shops, such as lathes, iron planes,
+&c. The dock gates are iron-plated. Although constructed entirely by
+convict labour, the expense was enormous, since to overcome the
+extraordinary difficulty presented by the soil, the entire machinery, down
+to the very smallest tool, had to be imported from England.
+
+The frigate lay about a week in dock. Besides the usual handicraftsmen
+there were upwards of thirty caulkers employed, each of whom was paid
+14_s._ per diem, net, but the entire cost was 17_s._ a day, as each man
+was conveyed to and fro, morning and evening, at Government expense. But
+as provisions are high, the workman can save by the end of the week little
+if at all more than the English labourer who does not receive one-third of
+his wages. At present there are on the island 360 prisoners, all such as
+have been sentenced to ten years penal servitude at least. This
+establishment was, however, to be broken up, and the convicts distributed
+among other prisons, so soon as the dock was quite completed.
+
+The main features of a prison reform, contemplated by Sir Wm. Denison,
+with the praiseworthy object not merely of prevention of crime, but of
+ameliorating the moral condition of the criminal, consisted in the
+classification of criminals according to the nature of their
+crime--co-operative labour during the day, solitary confinement at night,
+and a certain amount of remuneration for work performed, so as to
+stimulate to habits of industry by a visible reward, and a scale of
+dietary barely sufficient to maintain life, any additional delicacy being
+paid for out of the man's own earnings, yet not so as to entirely exhaust
+his wages, the balance of which thus went on accumulating, so as to give
+him a small sum of money in hand, when, his sentence expired, he was set
+at liberty with, it is to be hoped, freshly-acquired habits of industry.
+To facilitate this benevolent plan, Sir William bethought him of erecting
+the prisons in the neighbourhood of Sydney, where there is more of a
+market for convict labour, and recommended the construction of roads. The
+number of prisoners at present in New South Wales is about 1260, whose
+support costs on an average £36,000 per annum. In order to adapt to the
+existing prisons the new system put in operation by the late
+Governor-general, and extend it to 1600 men,[19] there would be required a
+further outlay of £69,000, but one-third of the present annual outlay for
+sustenance would be saved.
+
+On 25th November the _Novara_, thoroughly overhauled and rejuvenated,
+returned to her former anchorage near Garden Island, and the following day
+commenced a series of festivities, which the German residents at Sydney
+had got up to welcome the Imperial Expedition, commencing with a
+serenade, given by the German Singing-Club, who hired a large steamer, the
+_Washington_, for the occasion, which they had gaily decorated with
+foliage and coloured lamps. Amidships there was a splendid transparency,
+with the word "Welcome" inscribed in letters of light, above which was a
+very neatly executed Austrian eagle. Upwards of 300 guests shared in the
+fête. At 8 P.M. the vessel got under weigh from Circular Quay. With the
+first plash of the paddles the music struck up, and the ship glided off,
+as though on the wings of Harmony, towards the grand-looking _Novara_.
+
+Unfortunately the weather proved very unfavourable. To an oppressingly
+hot, close, sultry day of entire calm, the thermometer marking 109° Fahr.
+in shade, there had suddenly sprung up a "Brickfielder,"[20] that dreaded
+south wind, which may be considered one of the worst plagues of Sydney,
+owing to the clouds of dust. It now put German patience and German
+good-humour to a severe proof. At each tack of the steamer it blew out a
+whole row of variegated lamps and illuminations, which, however, were as
+perseveringly relit. It had been firmly resolved, however, to let nothing
+mar the success of the festival, and the old indomitable German "pluck"
+came out victorious in its contest with the "Brickfielder." Amid the full
+clangour of the bands of music were heard shouts of jubilant mirth,
+mingled with the howling and whistling of the wind, and the rush and roar
+of rockets, while the occasional firing of Bengal lights shed their magic
+effect over the parti-coloured crowd on board, the ships in harbour, and
+the agitated waters below. At last the steamer got near the frigate, which
+she swept round in a wide graceful curve, and dropped anchor at a little
+distance away. At that moment a considerable number of port-fires were lit
+on board the _Novara_, bathing the entire scene, including the stately
+ship herself, in an absolute deluge of light, guided by which a number of
+boats put off with the company, who despite the weather were all enabled
+in safety to gratify their curiosity as to the effect of nocturnal
+festivities.
+
+One of the frigate's boats was manned and despatched to the steamer, to
+bring on board the _Novara_ the committee who had been entrusted with the
+presentation of an address.
+
+On board the _Novara_ the utmost excitement prevailed, almost all the
+officers and petty and warrant officers being on deck, the band playing
+nothing but German music. The evening ended as it began, with music and
+melody, such a thoroughly German welcome making a profound impression upon
+the English of Sydney.
+
+The following day the German clubs of Sydney invited the staff to a
+ceremonial banquet, the saloon in which dinner was served being elegantly
+decorated with the flags of the various German states, between which were
+excellent likenesses of the Emperor and Empress. Upwards of seventy guests
+sat down to a sumptuous repast, after which free flow was given to the
+expression of the warmest wishes for fatherland and the German nation.
+
+While these festivities were going on, the English mails brought the
+intelligence of the birth of an heir to the throne! So signal a cause for
+thankfulness on the part of Austria was duly observed at the uttermost
+ends of the earth, and on 27th November the thunder of the _Novara's_
+cannon announced the glad tidings to the colonies of the southern coasts
+of Australia! Salutes of 21 guns were fired at morning, noon, and sunset,
+while on board our ship, which was decorated with all her colours, a
+solemn _Te Deum_ was sung, after which the crew were mustered on parade.
+The English ships of war also "dressed," and returned our salute by one of
+a similar number of guns. On the 30th there was a ball on board, to which
+400 guests were invited, many of the _élite_ being overlooked through
+sheer want of space or accommodation!
+
+The hospitality extended to the Austrian officers was not however confined
+to these public receptions, when they were thoroughly "lionized" during
+their stay, but also included a constant round of invitations among
+private circles, among which, without making invidious selections, where
+we can but feel a lasting recollection of the cordial kindness we
+everywhere experienced, we may specify those of H.E. Sir Wm. Denison, Sir
+D. Cooper, Speaker, Stuart A. Donaldson, Esq. Chief Secretary, Dr. G.
+Bennett, the eminent physician and naturalist, M. W. Sentis, French
+Consul, and Captain Mann, chief engineer of the docks.
+
+Here also our thanks are due to an estimable Austrian lady, a native of
+Vienna, who, wafted on the pinions of Hymen to Australia, has not a little
+contributed to uphold in that distant region the gentle dignity of the
+Viennese ladies, and the renown of Germany for musical supremacy. This
+lady, widely known in artistic circles as Mlle Amalie Mauthner, is now
+Madame R----, having a few years since married a German gentleman settled
+in Sydney. Quitting her home under the most auspicious anticipations for
+the future, the newly-married lady arrived in Sydney just in time to see
+her husband's house of business succumb under the first of the great
+financial crises. Instead of a life of affluence and ease in the
+gold-country, the sorely-tried lady was compelled to display her
+irresistible energy and activity by availing herself of her eminent
+musical attainments. The charming artist was speedily recognized and
+cordially supported in Sydney. The wealthiest and most distinguished
+families considered it an especial favour to be permitted to place their
+children under Mad. R----'s tuition. Her concerts became the most
+fashionable of the season, and the dark cloud which had gathered above the
+young inexperienced wife on her arrival in Australia, had, thanks to her
+marvellous energy and activity, gradually been dispelled, leaving a bright
+sunny horizon of felicity and content.
+
+We had but little opportunity of observing the phases of political life in
+Sydney, our arrival being coincident with the "dead season" of politics.
+We were just in time to be present at the spectacle of the prorogation of
+Parliament. This ceremonial took place in the chamber of the Legislative
+Council, the Governor-general officiating in person. The second chamber,
+or Legislative Assembly, was, as in England, represented simply by a
+deputation. Punctually at noon Black Rod threw open the doors and
+announced in grave but loud tones, "His Excellency the Governor-general of
+New South Wales," upon which Sir William Denison entered the apartment
+with much dignity, and assumed his seat under a sort of canopy. By his
+side stood the Ministers, his private secretary, and an aide-de-camp.
+Before him sat the President of the Legislative Council, and other high
+dignitaries. Sir D. Cooper, Speaker of the Assembly,--whom we scarcely
+recognized in his strange official costume, a black silk single-breasted
+coat, richly laced with gold, and an immense full wig,--delivered a short
+address, to which the Governor-general briefly responded, and the ceremony
+was over and the Parliament prorogued. Australia now enjoys such a free
+constitution, modelled after the English form, the administration of the
+various colonies is so entirely autonomous, their duty to the mother
+country so insignificant (so far as outward form goes), that the
+colonists seem quite content with their present administration, and the
+mal-contents, who once advocated separation and independence, even to the
+length of ventilating the subject in Parliament, have now been reduced to
+utter insignificance.
+
+Each colony has, by the "New Constitution Act" of 1851, been provided with
+the utmost freedom of self-government, the British Government only
+reserving the right of veto in those cases where the colonial laws should
+happen to run counter to the common law of the Empire. One hears, it is
+true, many prognostications as to the result of dividing the country into
+so many independent colonies, and having so many parliaments, especially
+as to the immense preponderance that the inhabitants of the cities must
+have over the scattered country population. A few even seem to be of
+opinion that they must contain many elements eminently unsuitable to the
+vitality of a mutually reliant, cohesive, law-abiding confederation. But
+although some passing blots and temporary defects may be dragged to the
+light of day, it must not be overlooked that the Australian continent is
+almost as large as Europe, and that each of these colonies covers more
+superficial area than most of the European states. As the laws and
+administration are the same for all these, it is more probable that the
+anticipated break up of moral power will rather take the form of
+developing true political life, so that the masses will more honourably
+and surely be enabled to appreciate their constitutional rights and
+duties.
+
+A few days before our departure some of the scientific staff had further
+opportunity of communicating with the "blacks." It was important to extend
+our collection of craniological specimens for that branch of study, by
+comparing the various races of men with each other, so as to enlarge our
+knowledge of the physiological peculiarities of either sex and every race;
+and as we had been told that numbers of skulls could be procured among the
+_Gunyahs_, or sandstone cavities of Cook-river Bay, which had been a
+favourite burial-place of the aborigines, we made an excursion thither,
+still accompanied by our staunch friend, Mr. Hill.
+
+Our light vehicle rattled merrily through the suburbs of New Town, a sort
+of suburb of Sydney, thence over the Cook-river Dam, 1000 feet wide by 200
+feet in length, to Coggera Cove, where several of the aborigines had
+pitched a temporary camp. These were two Mestiza women with their
+children, and Johnny, the last of the Sydney blacks, who might be about
+40, and was a cripple in consequence of an injury sustained in childhood.
+In 1836 there were 58 still alive; now Johnny is the last remaining
+survivor!
+
+We set off from Coggera Cove in a small, but safe, and well-built boat,
+rowed by Johnny and some white colonists, bound for Cool-river Bay, but
+our search in the sandstone caverns was unfortunately fruitless. Johnny
+then conducted us to a spot where Tom Weiry, one of the last of the
+chiefs, who lived at the mouth of Cool River, and died about twelve years
+previous, had been buried. Tom Weiry, or Tom Ugly, as the English named
+him, was a very athletic man, whose skeleton was a real prize for the
+purposes of comparative anatomy. Close to the spot where, according to
+Johnny, the last remains of the Australian chief reposed, were large
+quantities of empty oyster-shells, indicating that the place in question
+had once been a favourite resort of the "blacks," attracted thither by the
+prolific yield of this place in those shell-fish, one of their most highly
+appreciated articles of food. At various spots traces of fires were
+visible. The aborigines of the coast usually bury their dead clothed in
+the woollen blanket they wore in life, with the heads seaward, and near
+the coast, with but a few feet of earth over them. Unfortunately we had
+our pains for our reward, although Johnny repeatedly assured us he had
+himself, in picking up shell-fish, on that very spot seen projecting from
+the sand human bones, that frightened the superstitious fellow from
+prosecuting his search in that direction. Indeed, Johnny was positive some
+other exploring naturalist had been there and walked off with our
+contemplated anthropological prize.
+
+We returned, our object unachieved, to our boat, and so back to Coggera
+Cove, where we found tea and chocolate prepared in the renowned "black
+pot," that figures so much in bush life, off which we made an excellent
+repast. With true kindliness Mr. Hill shared what we had brought with us
+with the aborigines, who, on their part, showed themselves very obliging
+and attentive.
+
+A second excursion, still in Mr. Hill's company, was made after
+craniological specimens to Long Bay, twelve miles distant, among whose
+thickets a few natives had been residing for some weeks. The road thither
+passed through gum tree forests, varied by wide grass plains covered with
+the many-blossomed _Metrosidero_, with its long deep red stamens, and
+brilliant _Melaleuca_, its twigs also nearly covered with white flowers,
+among which rose the tapering flower-stem, ten or twelve feet high, of the
+_Xanthorrhea_, something like reed-mace, surrounded by flights of
+humming-birds, which were imbibing its delicious nectar with their long
+bills. Great quantities of little birds were swarming about the brushwood
+and rushes, occasionally coming quite trustfully so close to us that we
+could have caught them with a butterfly net. We had been riding perhaps an
+hour or two when Mr. Hill suddenly began to call in the native manner.
+Those forthwith summoned by this quite unique sound replied from the
+thicket, as if recognizing the approach of a friend, and in a minute or
+two more we found ourselves in the midst of a number of aborigines of both
+sexes, mostly naked, or with a coarse woollen cloth around them, lying at
+full length on the ground in listless ease. Close by was a fire, over
+which was suspended a kettle filled with water. A couple of mangy hounds
+covered with sores were basking in the sun, heedless of the footfall of
+our horses, lying as indifferent as their masters till we had dismounted
+and seen our beasts attended to.
+
+It is extraordinary to see how few necessaries these people seem to have,
+and how little ambition they have to better themselves, so long as they
+can indulge their vagabondizing propensities. There is assuredly no nation
+on earth that so aptly illustrates Goldsmith's words,
+
+    "Man wants but little here below,"
+
+as the black race of Australia.
+
+Those we were now visiting had come from the districts of Shoal Haven,
+Port Stephens, and Illawara. There were three men and as many women, one
+of whom, a Mestiza, named Sarah, with two half-blood little children. One
+of these, which, although above two years of age, was still at the breast,
+had a skin quite white, red cheeks, and light-blue eyes, and could
+scarcely be distinguished from the child of white parents. These presented
+so characteristic a type of the race, that we could not resist an attempt
+to make with them some of those admeasurements of the body already alluded
+to, while the artist attached to the Expedition delineated their
+appearance.
+
+The skull of the Australian black is tolerably regular, the forehead broad
+and high, the bridge of the nose pretty high, the eyes dark, brilliant,
+and sunken; the nose and cheek-bones well marked. The mouth generally is
+broad, the upper lip overhanging the under, and the upper teeth also
+project beyond the under. The face, like the entire body, is hairy in an
+unusual degree; the hair of the head is black, thin, often very fine in
+texture, and slightly crisped without being woolly. The skin is usually
+dark or dirty brown, or brownish black. The custom of marking the outer
+arm from the shoulders downwards with three or four marks, from 1 to
+1-1/2 inch long, and rather thick in the cicatrix, and continuing over the
+back with similar incisions, is pretty universal, and seems to be
+considered as a personal decoration. The elder people have the nasal
+cartilage bored through, and wear in the orifice kangaroo bones, or other
+bones, or even pieces of wood as amulets. We did not however remark this
+among the younger generation; this hideous custom seems to have died out,
+apparently on account of its discomfort.
+
+The stay of the _Novara_ in Australia was, as already remarked, so brief,
+that it did not admit of the scientific staff making more distant tours to
+the great cattle "stations," or gold districts. At the same time it
+appears to us important to make some few observations on these two
+products, to which Australia is indebted for her present prosperity, and
+the former of which is fraught with even more of its future destiny than
+the latter. At the commencement of the present century England used to
+procure all her wool from Spain, and somewhat later from Germany[21] and
+Hungary. Since that period the production of wool in the Cape, the East
+Indies, and Australia, has so enormously increased, that Great Britain is
+enabled to get from her colonies the entire consumption she requires for
+her woollen manufactures, averaging from 60 to 70,000,000 lbs., thus
+utilizing the agricultural energies of her emigrating children for the
+behoof of the mother country and her industrial classes.
+
+New South Wales produces at present (1858) above 17,000,000 lbs. of wool,
+the whole of Australia about 50,000,000. The number of sheep has increased
+from 29, imported by the first colonists in 1778,[22] to 8,139,160 in New
+South Wales alone, the total for all Australia being about 15,000,000.
+Some proprietors have upwards of 100,000 sheep, which they divide into
+flocks of from 2000 to 3000, which are in charge each of its respective
+shepherd, who keeps them in their own special "runs."
+
+The most suitable place for breeding sheep is Moreton Bay, lately raised
+into a new independent colony by the name of Queen's Land. The sheep there
+need but little attention, and the maladies to which they are subject in
+the west and south never occur in that colony. Were it not for the
+ravages of the wild dogs, the rearing of sheep would be attended with
+hardly any expense. These are pastured on the crown lands, for the use of
+which each squatter pays £10 per annum for every 4000 sheep, or 800 head
+of cattle. In the north, "Darling Downs" are considered the best,
+consisting of an open undulating table-land, broken here and there by
+occasional clumps of trees, and much resembling the States of Minnesota
+and Iowa, north and west of the Mississippi. On these Downs from 3000 to
+4000 sheep can easily be kept by a single shepherd, whereas in Bathurst
+800 would call into play all the watchfulness of a single individual. On
+Darling Downs the annual increase of a flock of 100 ewes is 96 per cent.;
+in Bathurst it is only 80. The value of a sheep is about 15_s._ to 20_s._,
+and the shearing usually begins in October and lasts till December, the
+average weight being 2-1/2 lbs. to the fleece. Innumerable teams of oxen
+carry the wool in bales of 200 or 300 lbs. from hundreds of miles in the
+interior down to the seaports, where the oxen and carts are usually sold,
+as, owing to the low price of cattle, it would not be remunerative to take
+them back without a freight. While we were in Australia an attempt had
+been made, at much cost of time, trouble, and expense, to import from
+their native Cordilleras a large number of Llamas or Alpacas, with the
+view of increasing the value of Australian wool by a cross with the
+Peruvian. An enterprising English merchant of Valparaiso, named Joshua
+Waddington, who had been 40 years resident in Chili, was a chief promoter
+of the undertaking. In 1852 another Englishman had undertaken to convey
+500 alpacas to England, but, despite the utmost care during the voyage,
+only three were landed alive. Waddington attributed this disaster to the
+want of fresh food, and therefore hit upon the expedient of accustoming
+those animals which he intended to send to Australia to the use of dry
+fodder, such as barley, bran, and hay, for some time before their
+embarkation. As soon as they had become somewhat inured they were shipped
+at Caldera, near Copiapó, and entrusted to the care of Mexican Indians
+accustomed to their habits, for transport to Australia. The vessel was of
+800 tons burthen, and was chartered at 6000 dollars for the voyage. The
+fitting up of the vessel for her novel cargo cost about 300 dollars. Each
+animal, in addition to its ration of dried food, had a quart of water per
+diem. The voyage from Caldera to Sydney took 70 days. Of 316 llamas
+shipped or born on the voyage only 36 died, 280 arriving in excellent
+health at Sydney, and were with all speed turned into a large pasture on
+the Government domain.[23] For weeks the negotiations remained in an
+anxious suspense, in consequence of the original projector of the
+undertaking, an adventurous Yankee, named Ledger, who had purchased the
+animals in the interior of Peru, and after four years of unwearied
+assiduity had accompanied his charge hither, standing out for a large sum
+by way of reward. Long after we had left Sydney we learned that the 280
+llamas were sold to a company of sheep-breeders at £25 a head, or for
+£7000 sterling the entire herd, the value of an animal in Peru being two
+or three dollars.
+
+The yield of the various gold-fields[24] in the west, north, and south of
+the colony, though nothing like so great as in the neighbouring colony of
+Victoria, yet contributes in no inconsiderable degree to the annual
+revenue of the state, and maintains a considerable commerce with other
+countries. According to official reports, the amount of gold taken out
+since its first discovery in March, 1851, to the end of July, 1860, was
+2,587,549 oz., worth about £9,600,000. Besides this, however, a
+considerable quantity of money was brought to the coast by private
+conveyance, where it was smelted down, since the entire yield of New South
+Wales in nine years was £12,696,231, besides £3,096,231 in the State
+Treasury and Mint, according to official returns.
+
+The rumour that gold was to be found in Australia was first set on foot by
+the Rev. H. F. Clarke, a Protestant missionary and well-known geologist,
+who so far back as 1841 found gold in the hills W. of Vale of Clyde, and
+had even then proved to several influential personages by unmistakeable
+evidence the existence of gold-quartz, with the remark that in Australia,
+especially the province of Victoria, all scientific indications were in
+favour of there being a great amount of gold. But the learned country
+parson found at that time little attention or interest, as well in
+consequence of its then being still a penal colony, as of the ignorance at
+that period universally prevalent as to the value of such indications.
+
+Ten years later a certain Mr. Hargrave adopted the rational course of
+visiting California, where he made himself master of the various means of
+obtaining gold, after which he returned, and commenced to wash for gold in
+Summer Hill Creek, Victoria, and thus became the practical discoverer of
+the gold-fields, the special contributor to the development of the
+resources of the country. The committee of the Legislative Council, to
+whom was entrusted to examine and report upon the claims of individuals as
+to the honour of having discovered the Australian gold-fields, added to
+the minute of 10th March, 1841, that Mr. Hargrave, who had so
+disinterestedly thrown open to all this inexhaustible mine of wealth,
+ought to receive £5000, and Rev. W. H. Clarke £1000 in recognition of his
+mineralogical researches, which had conduced to the same result. The first
+Australian gold, 18 oz. in weight, was landed in London by the _Honduras_
+on 20th August, 1851. Thenceforward the importation increased with each
+month, the amount by the end of the year having reached 240,044 oz., worth
+£871,652. The following year the amount extracted was 4,247,657 oz., value
+£14,866,799.
+
+The crowd of gold-seekers and adventurers, attracted by the discovery, was
+something tremendous. From the commencement of Sept. 1851, when 29 men
+were engaged in washing at Anderson's Creek, to the end of December, only
+four months, the population of the diggings reached 20,300; in 1852 they
+numbered 53,500, in 1853 75,626.
+
+Shortly after the discovery of the gold-fields, the Colonial Government
+appointed special officers, the well-known "Gold Commission," to watch
+over these improvised settlements. They published "Regulations for the
+management of the gold-fields," and sold licenses, at 20_s._ or 40_s._
+according to yield, for the privilege of digging within certain limits;
+the localities most in favour being Ballarat, Mount Alexander, Castlemain,
+Sandhurst, Beechworth, and Heathcote.
+
+The gold obtained in 1852 was valued at from 58_s._ to 60_s._ per ounce.
+The banks made advances at the rate of from 40_s._ to 55_s._ per oz., or
+exchanged the gold-dust at from 8-1/2 to 10 per cent. discount for coined
+money. The freight was 4-1/2_d._ per oz. In 1858 the value of the ounce
+had risen at the "diggings" to from 70_s._ to 77_s._, and the discount had
+fallen to 1 per cent., and the Insurance Company charged for gold
+transport a premium of from 1-3/4 to 2-1/2 per cent.
+
+Since that period gold has repeatedly been discovered in fresh localities
+of the adjoining colony of Victoria, the "yield" and the number of
+diggers being also steadily increasing. Many thousands at present leave
+New South Wales annually to try their fortune in other fields than those
+of agriculture. In 1857 upwards of 26,000 persons left this colony for
+Victoria. Consequently, the price of labour has risen throughout
+Australia, and while it has thus increased in expense it has become more
+uncertain and unreliable. A large number of buildings, especially in the
+country, have been left unfinished, and the clearing and cultivation of
+numerous tracts of land have been abandoned. These temporary evils,
+however, cannot be permitted to outweigh the enormous advantages derivable
+from the discovery of the gold-fields of Australia. It has attracted the
+attention of universal mankind to a distant British colony, hitherto
+almost unnoticed, it has peopled the country with magic celerity,
+centupled the value of the land, made its results appreciable in the
+remotest districts of the globe, and raised the colony of Victoria within
+a few years, in national prosperity, increased trade, and extended
+cultivation, to a degree of importance usually the slow growth of
+centuries of industry.
+
+The discovery of the gold-fields had at the same time important scientific
+consequences, chiefly in the way of geological researches, which resulted
+in proving that the widespread popular opinion, that the Australian
+continent belongs to the latest geological era, and had comparatively
+recently emerged from the sea, is entirely erroneous. Rich palæontological
+collections confirm the opinion that Australia is not the latest, but
+rather the earliest, continent. In several parts of the colony the fossil
+remains of various colossal animals have been discovered, which, as since
+measured, must have stood from 10 to 16 feet in height, and correspond to
+our diluvial Pachydermata in Europe. In like manner, with the exception of
+some quite insignificant tertiary strata of small extent, only crystalline
+rocks and primary formations (from the Silurian upwards) form the chief
+bulk of the continent. The entire series of secondary strata seems to be
+absent. From this fact it necessarily results that Australia has been a
+continent since the end of the primary epoch, that it never has been
+covered by the sea, but remained ever since the beginning of the secondary
+formations, through all those countless ages during which Europe was being
+convulsed by the most tremendous geological revolutions, a habitable soil,
+on which plants and beasts, undisturbed by change in the inorganic world,
+might have continued to flourish down to our own times. Viewed in this
+light the fauna and flora of Australia would be the most ancient and
+primitive in the world.
+
+Another Austrian naturalist, the well-known botanist Professor Unger of
+Vienna, has come to the same conclusions from the fossil remains of some
+Australian plants, accompanied by the further singular deduction, that
+Europe must have been at one period in much closer accordance with this
+remote region. Many forms of plants, especially _Proteaceæ_, which at
+present form such a peculiar feature of its vegetation, seem to have been
+similarly prevalent in Europe at that remote age of the globe. But if
+even it be accepted that during the Eocene or earliest tertiary period
+there existed in Europe under similar climatic conditions flora of
+_Coniferæ_, _Proteaceæ_, _Myrtaceæ_, and _Casurinæ_, such as Australia now
+possesses, the question still arises as to how the vegetation of a
+locality so remote should have been transferred to antipodean Europe?
+Making all due allowance for the astonishing influence exercised by winds,
+waves, and the migration of animals over the diffusion of vegetable
+species, yet the means of transport by the ocean or by currents of water
+is confined within narrow limits, and under the most favourable conditions
+is limited to the very few plants which can maintain their powers of
+reproduction uninjured by immersion in water, and those on the other hand
+which, on being transported to a strange shore, find there the means of
+existence and increase. As, moreover, the observations which Professor
+Unger has made upon the diffusion of species of plants at that remote
+period, and their very accurately circumscribed limits, run directly
+counter to the opinion of those naturalists who hold to a variety of
+centres of development, (instancing a case where one species of plants is
+found in two widely separated regions,) have never been satisfactorily
+refuted, the learned botanist thereupon proceeds to the conclusion, that
+during the Eocene period Australia was united to the mainland through the
+Moluccas. This land route has been followed at one period by _Araucarias_,
+_Proteaceæ_, sandal wood, and a hundred other varieties of tree and
+shrub, which till that connection was made could not diffuse themselves,
+so as thus to reach the European continent, where they are even now found,
+despite the lapse of myriads of years, in the shape of well-preserved
+fossils. Thus too, for similar reasons, the geologist to our Expedition,
+like Professor Unger, regarded Australia as not a youthful, lately-born
+continent, but a country decaying with antiquity, which had played its
+part in the physical history of the globe, and had spread its scions far
+and wide. Some alteration of level is not merely indicated by the numerous
+coral reefs encircling Australia and its island groups, pointing to a
+similar sinking among them as that already noticed among the smaller
+Polynesian islands:--The whole characteristics of the soil, the wastes of
+the interior, the innumerable salt lakes, the rivers which lose themselves
+in these, &c. &c., tell of a coming geological transformation, which
+however--we mention this for the consolation of the settlers--may yet be
+postponed for myriads of years.
+
+The system of transportation, concerning which so loud an outcry has
+recently been made, has so materially assisted in developing the resources
+of the country, that it would hardly be right to quit Botany Bay without a
+few remarks on the penal colony which was in existence there till 1840.
+For there is no spot on the globe better adapted than New South Wales to
+serve as a stand-point, whence any one might accurately study the
+advantages and drawbacks of the English transportation system, as also its
+influence upon a strongly recalcitrant society. In brief, we purpose to
+subject the system as it subsisted for half a century in Australia to a
+thorough analysis, inasmuch as it seems to us that, in our present
+unnatural social conditions, transportation, i. e. the sudden transference
+of the criminal to totally new conditions of external life, seems to
+furnish the much-desired turning point whence we may expect a lasting
+moral improvement of the individual. Our Austrian prisons, especially
+those in which the cell system has not been introduced, are simply houses
+of detention, not penitentiaries, still less reformatories. The
+incarcerated criminal is a burden to himself and to society, to which he
+is only in the most exceptional cases restored improved by confinement.
+The charge of maintaining him increases year by year, without any return
+being made by utilizing the labour of the prisoner. In penal colonies, on
+the other hand, the convict works as much for his own benefit as for that
+of society. He throws open new immeasurable tracts of land to
+civilization, trade, and industry. The evil effects of certain climates
+upon the health of the convict can be corrected by proper ordinances, till
+it is reduced to a barely appreciable minimum. The free settler is also
+exposed in unsettled countries to dangerous illnesses, but as his
+circumstances improve these disappear before the cleared forest, the
+cultivated patch, the drained swamp.
+
+We do not believe that were the option left them there is one solitary
+individual in our Austrian prisons, condemned to periods of imprisonment
+of ten years and upwards, who would not willingly exchange his sojourn at
+home for one in even the insalubrious islands of the Indian Ocean, if the
+prospect were held out to him after a series of years of steady labour and
+honest activity, that he might make his new-found activity available to
+secure his liberty. What may be made, however, of a valueless wilderness
+by means of compulsory labour, we have at this day an example of in the
+case of the first penal colony of New South Wales. Even the objectionable
+manner in which the system was administered during more than fifty years
+in Australia and Van Diemen's land could not entirely destroy its
+beneficial effects upon the criminal, or blind an unprejudiced observer to
+the advantages and general utility of transportation as a means of
+punishment. In 1787 the eastern coast of Australia, chiefly in consequence
+of the too glowing accounts of the suitability of the harbours, and the
+fertility of the soil of Botany Bay, was selected by the British
+Government as the site of a penal colony, and on the 26th January, 1788,
+the first batch of convicts was landed there. These consisted of 600 males
+and 250 women, and were accompanied by an escort of 200 men. Forty of the
+latter were married men, who were accompanied by their wives and children.
+The whole expedition was under the command of Captain Phillip, the first
+Governor of the new settlement.[25]
+
+The colonists had scarcely settled down after their arrival on, as was
+speedily found, the anything but safe or fertile shores of Botany Bay, ere
+they were removed to another harbour, lying about seven miles further
+north, beautifully situate, and fulfilling every requirement, which they
+named Port Jackson.
+
+The first free settlers did not make their appearance till 1794. The
+officers of the garrison were merchants also, and trafficked in whatever
+merchandise they could find. Rum especially was a chief article. A
+Government regulation required every ship which should put into Port
+Jackson, to deliver a certain proportion of her spirits to the officers
+according to their rank!! They also received a list of the merchandise
+brought by each ship, from which they selected whatever seemed most
+profitable, which they disposed of again at retail to the soldiers,
+settlers, and convicts at an immense profit. Further, the officers enjoyed
+the entire monopoly of importing spirits, as also the exclusive privilege
+of selling them to the retail merchants. By these devices many of them
+amassed considerable fortunes by trade, and thus the repeated efforts made
+by a succession of Governors to effect a reform in the colony were
+rendered fruitless. During the administration of Captain Bligh, so widely
+known in connection with the tragic fate of the mutineers of the _Bounty_,
+rum was the most valuable article of exchange, and the colonists found by
+bitter experience that there were no other sellers of this destructive
+drink than the privileged few.
+
+The utmost anarchy and violence reigned supreme throughout New South
+Wales at that period; the power of the Government was set entirely at
+nought, license and violence usurped the place of law and order; the
+convicts found they were not under any effective control or supervision;
+whole bands of them infested the country as "bush-rangers," till they grew
+so bold as to enter the dwellings of peaceful settlers in broad day, where
+they perpetrated the most cruel excesses.
+
+In 1807 Mr. McArthur and Captain Abbot of the 102nd introduced the first
+distilling apparatus into the country for cheapening the production of
+ardent spirits. The Governor forthwith confiscated the apparatus, and
+forbade distillation in any part of the colony. This prohibition gave rise
+among those interested to dissensions, which gradually rose to such a
+height, that about a year thereafter it led to Bligh being placed in
+confinement by some of his own officers. The English Government however
+now began to perceive that such a state of carelessness could no longer be
+endured, and not only reinstated Bligh, but promoted him to the rank of
+Admiral.
+
+On their arrival in the colony the prisoners were sent to barracks in
+Sydney, where the Government selected from their number such
+handicraftsmen as they required for the public works, while the remainder
+were distributed as land cultivators, labourers, artisans, &c., among such
+private individuals as had made themselves agreeable to the Government. As
+free labour was rare and expensive in the colony at that period, the
+requests for such allocations of forced labour were greatly in excess of
+the number of workmen so available.
+
+Those consigned to private individuals were taken into the interior in
+charge of a constable or overseer, where they were required to build a
+shelter for themselves, which, owing to the mildness of the climate, could
+be very speedily accomplished. The hours of work were from 6 A.M. to 6
+P.M., and the main feature was that the convict durst not leave his
+employer, whether kind and good-tempered, or harsh and cruel. When there
+was no further occasion for their services they were remitted to
+Government, who found another employer for them.
+
+All land-holders in the colony were entitled, on preferring a request to
+the Governor to that effect, to have assigned them, according to the
+current quantity of disposable labour, in the proportion of one workman to
+every 320 acres of land; but no settler, no matter how extensive his
+holding, could "take on" more than 75 convicts. Each employer had to
+engage to keep the convict assigned him one month at least, and provide,
+at his own cost, food and clothing according to a scale fixed by
+Government.
+
+The weekly rations consisted of nine lbs. wheaten flour, or at the option
+of the employer, three lbs. Indian corn, and seven lbs. of wheat flour,
+seven lbs. of beef or mutton, four lbs. salt pork, two oz. salt, two oz.
+soap. The clothing consisted of two jackets annually, three shirts of
+canvas or cotton, two pairs of drawers, three pairs of shoes of stout
+leather, and a hat or cap. Each labourer was also allowed the use of a
+counterpane and mattress, which however remained the property of the
+employer. These legal privileges had however been extended through custom
+or the favour of the employers to various little articles of luxury, such
+as tobacco, sugar, tea, grog, &c. In particular, with the object of
+ensuring the utmost zeal on the part of the workman during the harvest
+season, it was almost imperative at that season to show him those little
+relaxations and favours which at length became customary, and in no slight
+degree enhanced the cost of his maintenance.
+
+On the arrival of a convict ship a crowd used to hurry down to await the
+moment when the convicts were to be allotted to applicants. As no special
+memoranda were made during the voyage of the offence for which each man
+had been transported, or his subsequent conduct on the voyage, the
+administration were not in a position to make such a selection as should
+classify the prisoners, and assign them according to nature of crime and
+subsequent behaviour to a determined or a more gentle employer. Hence
+resulted the most lamentable injustice; the most truculent of these men
+occasionally were assigned to the gentle masters, while a less hardened
+criminal came under the yoke of a hard-hearted task-master, and thus had
+an infinitely more severe lot to bewail than he in fact deserved.
+
+Such a harsh, and in too many cases unjust, method of dealing with them,
+drove the convicts to the commission of fresh offences, or even crimes,
+and, in desperation at the wrongs to which they were exposed, they not
+merely neglected utterly the interests of their temporary masters, but in
+many cases, impelled by a fierce thirst for vengeance, they burned house
+and property over his head at the harvest time!
+
+The chronic alarm and anxiety of the colony during a long period was not
+however traceable to the principle of the system itself, but to the method
+in which it was worked by self-seeking natives, greedy of gain. No sooner
+had the most glaring of the evils been rectified, and by means of a
+powerful government law and order resumed their wonted sway, ere the young
+colony began to make most unexpected strides in developing its
+capabilities, and both in the unfolding of its natural resources and in
+its trade and commerce ere long attracted the attention, not merely of
+England and her manufacturers, but of all Europe.
+
+In 1840 New South Wales ceased to be a convict settlement, at which period
+there were 130,856 souls in the colony, 26,967 of whom were convicts. In
+1857, when the last census was taken, there were in all 305,487, of whom
+171,673 were males, and 133,814 females, who inhabited 41,479 houses, 1725
+huts, 50 waggons, and 75 ships, and subsisted chiefly by pasture and
+agriculture.
+
+The morality of this population diffused over 321,579 square miles has
+greatly improved, thanks to the unlimited freedom of individual power to
+develope itself, and the opportunities afforded for leading an
+independent, comfortable life, and in the interests of Truth we must add,
+that in no part of Europe would any one be left so unfettered to travel
+about alone and unarmed, or require less precautions, as in this once
+penal colony.
+
+The number of criminal cases of all sorts in the colony during the last
+ten years, during which the population has increased from 189,600 to
+266,189, is as follows:--
+
+  1848 ... 445 accused, of whom were executed 4
+  1849 ... 534   --         --      --        4
+  1850 ... 555   --         --      --        4
+  1851 ... 574   --         --      --        2
+  1852 ... 527   --         --      --        5
+  1853 ... 604   --         --      --        2
+  1854 ... 637   --         --      --        6
+  1855 ... 526   -- (one of these a woman)    5
+  1856 ... 461   --         --      --        0
+  1857 ... 395   --         --      --        4
+
+One must not forget to take into account that by far the larger portion of
+the population are recruited from the lower class, as measured by
+education. On the whole we may assume that of the 305,487 souls, 30,000
+men and 20,000 women _can neither read nor write_.
+
+As to the intimate connection between crime and ignorance, most striking
+confirmation is obtained from investigations made in England and Wales in
+1842-44, in the case of 69,616 criminals, of whom 21,799 or 31.3 per cent.
+could neither read nor write, 41,620 or 59.8 per cent. could read and
+write imperfectly, 5909 or 8.5 per cent. could read and write well, and
+only 308 or 0.4 per cent. had received a good education.
+
+The present population of New South Wales, despite all their burdens and
+difficulties, furnish an instructive and cheering example of what may be
+made of even hordes of fallen man under certain conditions, if they can be
+afforded the opportunity of working and showing their powers.
+
+Confined in gloomy cells between high walls, chained hand and foot with
+heavy iron fetters, condemned in their wretched state to life-long
+inaction, the convicts sent out to Botany Bay during fifty years would
+have cost the State directly, and society indirectly, an enormous sum;
+while their existence would have passed in silent brooding over their
+fate, and speculations as to the means of avenging themselves on mankind.
+
+Placed on a remote, healthy, fertile shore, with the cheering prospect of
+inaugurating for themselves a new era of existence by labour and industry,
+and thus being enabled to attain competency and respectability, these very
+same men raise themselves, at but little cost, to the position of valuable
+subjects to the state and to society, by causing to smile, under the gold
+crop of agriculture, lands hitherto all but unknown, and thus becoming the
+founders of a community, which bears within itself the germ of such a
+marvellous development in the future, that political seers even now
+designate it as "THE GREAT BRITAIN OF THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE."
+
+A system which, despite the many serious deficiencies caused by individual
+selfish short-sightedness, has produced such results, cannot be considered
+by any unprejudiced inquirer as altogether objectionable or aimless;--on
+the contrary, it seems to us it has proved its utility in founding new
+oversea colonies in portions of the earth as yet little visited, the
+first colonization of which is attended with local difficulties. We have
+but to avail ourselves of the experience acquired at Botany Bay, avoiding
+the canker under which the system has hitherto been worked in the British
+colonies (with the exception perhaps of that pattern convict settlement at
+Singapore, which we have already described), and draw up such regulations,
+keeping in view the sole object of transportation, viz. PUNISHMENT BY
+EXILE, AND REFORMATION OF THE INDIVIDUAL THROUGH LABOUR, as shall
+facilitate its being carried out in an efficient manner, and suffer
+ourselves neither to be diverted from our course by the selfish warnings
+of interested administrators, nor by the objections of ill-advised
+philanthropists.
+
+With respect to the carrying out of a system of transportation, such as
+formerly existed in the British colonies, especially Australia and Van
+Diemen's Land, the following modifications seem to be advisable:--
+
+1. The abandonment of the convict to the employer, i. e. the "assignment
+system," must be entirely given up, as the prisoner by such an arrangement
+degenerates into an article for speculation, out of which it must be the
+task-master's interest to get as much as he can, so as to be able to
+return him upon the hands of the State so soon as his capacity for labour
+begins to fail. The convicts who were thus "assigned" in New South Wales,
+stood to their employers in the same position as negro slaves in the
+Southern States of North America, or the island of Cuba. They were fed
+like beasts of burden, without the slightest remuneration for the heaviest
+work. The State had, it is true, a right to punish the criminal, but it
+seems to us unjust in the extreme to make him the slave of his fellow-man.
+Accordingly this practice was the source of unutterable mischief, and was
+followed by most deplorable results as regards the moral development of
+the colony.
+
+2. The case is very different when the labour of the criminal, instead of
+being devoted to the aggrandizement of a private individual, finds its
+expansion in forwarding parochial or national public works, in clearing
+and cultivating tracts of land, and preparing them for the future labour
+of free colonists, in the laying out of roads, in the erection of
+churches, schools, hospitals, and barracks, in the construction of docks,
+quays, &c. &c. So soon as private interest disappears,--so soon as the
+energies of the criminal are no longer made available to put money in the
+pockets of private speculators, but are utilized for the general good, by
+far the greater number of those minor drawbacks will disappear, which
+press with all the more force on the compulsory labourer, in proportion as
+he feels conscious that he is regarded by him who has purchased his labour
+not as a FELLOW-MAN, but as a CHATTEL, to be employed while he is of any
+value, and then to be cast aside, as one might throw a dried twig into the
+fire. What may be accomplished in this direction, even in colonies of
+comparatively recent foundation, is evidenced by the splendid roads of
+Cape Colony, traversing mountain passes 6000 to 8000 feet high, the
+numerous public buildings in Singapore, Hong-kong, Sydney, &c. Edifices,
+which in consequence of the high price of free labour, might not have been
+erected under the lapse of many years, actually at present rear their
+imposing forms like so many ornamental memorials, now of the worship of
+the loving Saviour, now of our charitable duties to the sick and
+afflicted, but all serving to instruct and civilize the rising generation!
+
+3. As to the subsistence of the criminals, we do not believe that the
+principle of giving them the same descriptions of rations, no matter
+whether they worked much or little, would be found conducive to the
+attainment of the great object of making them feel an interest in their
+labour. We would rather see the present system departed from in this
+particular, and a marked difference made in the food provided for the
+industrious, as compared with their more indolent companions.
+
+4. Of great importance in penal colonies, as tending to produce a lasting
+and decided improvement of the individual, is the FAMILY TIE. What is
+independence or even affluence to the exile, if he has no one to care for,
+or think of, but himself? His slow and laborious earnings would greatly
+tend to plunge him once more into excesses, till he quickly sank back into
+his former state of war with civilization.
+
+5. It seems to us imperatively necessary in the interests of this great
+design of a penal colony, that provision should be made for a certain
+proportion of female population, which might consist partly of female
+criminals, and partly of the wives of such of the male criminals as
+should, after a sufficient probation, be permitted to have their wives and
+children conveyed at the cost of Government to their place of exile.
+Lastly, the nucleus of a female population thus already formed might be
+added to from time to time, by sending out such discharged female
+criminals as had no visible means of making an honest livelihood in the
+mother country. It were a noble object for Christian activity and
+religious harmony to provide the means for sending these wretched outcasts
+to the new home that was thus being formed.
+
+6. The importation of spirituous liquors, that fruitful cause of so much
+crime, must be confined within the narrowest limits. One cannot believe
+that even in unhealthy places, where the water frequently is very impure
+and unhealthy, owing to vegetable matters held in solution, the use of
+strong spirituous liquors must needs be unavoidable. Tea and coffee will
+in such places, as I experienced myself during several years' residence in
+unhealthy climates, be found excellent substitutes.
+
+7. No official of the colony, civil or military, should be permitted to
+trade in any article except the natural products of the soil. On the other
+hand, it would be advisable that each _employé_ should have assigned him
+by Government, a tract of land for cultivation corresponding to his rank.
+
+There can be little doubt, and it may well be advanced as an argument on
+the other side, when the rapid progress made by the Australian colonies
+under the influence of this transportation system is adduced as an example
+in point, that nowhere probably on the earth would external circumstances,
+position of the country, and development of the colony to such a pitch of
+prosperity, combine so wonderfully to produce such a result, as was the
+case with New South Wales. But even the clumsy method of carrying out this
+form of punishment, and the immense use made of it for selfish ends by men
+who had every opportunity for studying close at hand the influence it
+might have been made to exercise upon the development of the Australian
+colonies, could not weaken the conviction that, under more judicious
+management, it would have answered every anticipation that could
+reasonably be formed of any mode of punishment, and that it is better
+calculated than any other to prove conducive to the amelioration of the
+criminal himself. We might, while upon this subject, specially refer to
+the valuable and comprehensive work of Dr. Holtzendorf upon transportation
+as a means of punishment,[26] which embraces all that can be said on
+either side of the question, all put together in an attractive and
+exhaustive manner, and who, contemplating the great example presented to
+the world by Australia, has arrived at a similar conclusion, "that the
+working power of the criminal may, under proper management, be made to
+produce results, able to accelerate the progress of a generation, while
+furnishing at the same time a lever by which to effect a moral reformation
+in the disposition of criminals." He foresees the time "when the colonists
+of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land need no longer feel ashamed at
+the historic recollection of their original convict associations, but
+might rather, viewing the prosperity of their country, and the tone and
+extent of their civilization, feel grateful to the criminals who landed in
+1788 to become the pioneers of the country, and do them the justice of
+believing that the good which they were compelled to do to the soil still
+existed, while the evil they might have done was left undone of their own
+accord, or was gradually assimilated under substantial progress."
+
+The greatest obstacle to be encountered by the transportation system will
+be found in the difficulty of hitting upon suitable localities. When we
+consider the many conditions which must be satisfied, some referring to
+the general objects aimed at in all punishment, some to considerations of
+humanity and utility, when selecting a site for a penal colony, such as
+climate, soil, distance, importance of the country as a market for the
+products of the mother country, &c., it will be found that the number of
+unclaimed or unbespoken territories, in which a scheme of compulsory
+colonization could be carried out on a large scale, is exceedingly
+limited.
+
+For Germany, however, at least under her present political composition,
+the foundation of penal colonies oversea seems all but entirely
+impracticable. She must, in the first place, have her maritime power more
+developed. On this subject the agreement is of importance which was
+entered into in 1836 between Mr. James Colquhon, Consul-General for the
+city of Hamburg, and the agents of the Australian Agricultural Society on
+the other, as, although nothing resulted from it, it nevertheless
+indicates how States that have no colonies can set about the system of
+transportation. The gist of that scheme was the subscription of a sum for
+the passage of such convicts as voluntarily accepted the offer, on their
+engaging to remain for a certain period at compulsory labour in Australia
+on the same terms as those of English convicts.[27]
+
+Once the wish and the necessity shall arise in Germany, owing to the
+expansion of her population, for possessions beyond sea, and her navy
+shall increase on a scale adapted to their protection and defence, then,
+although the choice of locality may be limited, the idea will no longer
+remain impracticable. In the Indian Ocean as well as the Pacific there are
+numbers of island groups, which, by their hypsometric conditions,
+geographical position, and fertility of soil, are admirably suited for
+settlement by white labour. The prejudice against the climatic
+adaptability of the majority of these falls to the ground, when we
+recollect what entirely altered conditions in that respect have been
+brought about by the industry and energy of the colonists of Singapore and
+Pulo-Penang, on islands which, from being in the worst possible repute
+for their deadly climate and dreaded forest malaria, are now favourite
+invalid resorts of the wealthy white residents of the islands of Eastern
+Asia. But German statesmen must no longer hesitate, or continue to
+sacrifice the future to the exigencies, even the most pressing in
+political eyes, of the present, for England noiselessly but systematically
+is possessing herself one after the other of all the islands that are as
+yet untenanted by the white man, as, for instance, quite lately of the
+Andaman Islands in the Bay of Bengal, or, as in the case of the Feejee
+Islands,[28] accept a suspicious protectorate got up by an influential
+missionary; while the Emperor of the French, with his irresistible
+inclination for annexation, is incessantly occupied in seizing on points
+important either by geographical position or for trade purposes, of which
+New Caledonia furnishes the latest example. Too long delay and expectation
+may have for the contemplative German results similar to those which in
+Schiller's beautiful poem, punished the dallying of the son of the Muses,
+whose fate, as compared with the actual political circumstances of
+Germany, suggests but too many painful analogies!
+
+On 6th December the frigate was made ready for prosecuting her voyage, and
+the same evening all was ataunto. The following morning we were to be
+towed out of the many-coved port, till quite clear of "the Heads." The
+steamer, however, sustained an accident to her machinery, and we had her
+services little more than half a day. Early on the 7th, a breeze had
+sprung up from S.W. by S., accompanied by squalls and rain, which
+gradually freshened into squally weather from the S., and determined the
+Commodore to make all sail at once. Already, even while we were still in
+the port, the weather began to be stormy; we had to take in a reef in the
+mainsail, and by 9 A.M. found ourselves outside of "North Head." By the
+afternoon the low flat coast of Australia had sunk below the horizon, and
+the south wind had now become a gale. It seemed as though winds and waves
+had conspired to put to the severest test the operations of the caulkers,
+carpenters, and sail-makers of Sydney. But although the frigate rolled
+tremendously, and the frequent squalls propelled the sea against her hull
+with frightful violence, she did not ship a drop of water below. The
+repairs in dock had been most effectually performed. After a couple of
+days both wind and sea fell, the sun shone out with the mildness of early
+spring, and we bowled along in the most delicious weather and with every
+stitch of canvas set, swiftly careering towards our next goal, New
+Zealand.
+
+On the 9th at 5 P.M. we buried the corpse of one of the gunners, who had
+died the same morning of dysentery, the remains being committed to the
+deep with the customary ceremonies and marks of respect.
+
+On the morning of the 19th we sighted Barrier Island off Cape Butt,
+distant 35 miles. The more we neared the land, the more balmy did the
+atmosphere become. Innumerable Albatrosses and _Procellariæ_ swarmed
+around us, and the result of half an hour's shooting from a small boat
+dropped over the side for the purpose, resulted in our securing eleven
+different species of storm-birds. A whale about 50 feet in length also
+came close under our quarter, and only retreated after he had been
+repeatedly fired upon and had received a number of balls in his carcase.
+
+We steered for the South Point of Barrier Island, the outline of which is
+very beautiful, relieved as it is by two hills, of which that to the south
+is about 2000 feet in height, running up into a sharp peak, while the more
+northerly rises gradually, being only precipitous on the northern face.
+The broken conical rocks which ascend out of the sea near the northern
+point of the island unmistakeably indicate their volcanic origin.
+
+Our arrival off New Zealand was signalized by most unusual calms, which
+indeed materially delayed our entrance into Huraka Gulf, a sort of lateral
+bay, entering from the harbour of Auckland. A bark, which had sailed from
+Sydney three days before us, had, as we were informed by our pilot, been
+one day in harbour. We now had to tack slowly up under faint puffs of wind
+towards the anchorage, which we reached finally at 5.30 P.M. of the 22nd
+December, 1858.
+
+The country round Auckland has none of those majestic features which are
+presented by New Zealand further south. The enormous volcanic peaks, such
+as Mount Egmont, 8000 feet high, have dwindled down in this region to
+numerous but small extinct cones, rarely rising above 800 feet. Instead of
+the hills covered with perpetual snow of the central island, one sees here
+only low chains of hills, about 2000 feet high, and a rolling country,
+which dips into the sea in steep cliffs of sandstone. In the various bays
+and channels of the wide gulf might be seen numbers of natives in their
+elegant canoes engaged in fishing. We found but five ships in harbour, and
+here also the _Novara_ was the largest man-of-war that had ever entered
+the port. The population of Auckland turned out on the beach as we
+approached, and began to exchange the usual salutes with the little fort.
+
+
+                               FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] A National System of Political Economy. Stuttgart, 1840. (J. C.
+Cotta.)
+
+[2] In an old map of the year 1542, the Australian continent is named New
+Java.
+
+[3] The mean of thermometrical readings on the north coast is 80°.6
+Fahr.;--at Port McQuarrie, in S.E. Australia (31° S.), 68° Fahr.; at Port
+Jackson (34° S.) 66°.5 Fahr.; at Port Philip on the south coast (33° S.),
+61°.3 Fahr.; at Perth on the west coast (32° S.) 62°.6 to 64°.4 Fahr. The
+annual rain-fall in New South Wales is 45 inches.
+
+[4] The total superficial area of the somewhat oval-shaped continent lying
+between 10° and 45° S. and 112° and 154° E., is about 2,100,000
+geographical square miles in extent, the coast outline of which is about
+7000 miles, so that for each mile of coast there are about 300 square
+miles of surface, or rather more than double the proportion in Europe. The
+united English population of the different colonies founded in Australia
+(exclusive of Tasmania or Van Diemen's Land) and New Zealand amounts to
+about 1,400,000 souls. Within twenty years the population has increased
+six-fold, and the value of the exports twenty-fold.
+
+[5] The fundamental principle of the University is, "The association of
+students without respect of religious creed, in the cultivation of secular
+knowledge." (See Sydney University Calendar for 1858, p. 15.)
+
+[6] The fixed salary of the teacher varies from £120 to £140 per annum.
+
+[7] At the period of our visit to the colony, the post of secretary was
+filled by Mr. G. French Angus, distinguished as an artist, and widely
+known for his valuable ethnological studies upon the Caffers, New
+Zealanders, and South Australian aborigines. Unfortunately his health gave
+way, owing to his exertions, and he now lives in retirement at
+Collingwood, in South Australia, where however he is still animated by the
+most intense zeal for science.
+
+[8] The expedition discovered on the 21st April, 1858, in 24° 35' S. and
+146° 6' W., an ash tree, two feet in diameter, on whose huge trunk the
+letter L had been deeply cut. Close by there were everywhere traces of a
+regular encampment, and an impression pretty universally prevailed that
+Leichhardt and his companions had camped here, and had cut this mark to
+indicate it. One of the oldest missionaries of Western Australia, the
+venerable Mr. C. Threlkeld, objected, however, to this view that the
+letter L, of which so much was spoken, had in all probability been made by
+one of the youthful natives, who when learning to read and write are in
+the habit of cutting the letters on the trees. We present here the precise
+passage of the text of a letter of Dr. Threlkeld's to us:--"I send you a
+spelling-book, that Billy Blue, one of the black boys, used to have, when
+he was learning to read and write. He and others used to go into the bush,
+and cut the letters of the alphabet on the barks of the trees, and Brown,
+an aboriginal lad, who _went with the unfortunate Leichhardt_, used to do
+the same. _I suspect that he cut the celebrated L on the tree about which
+there is so much talk at the present time._"
+
+[9] One of the most appalling of these was that undertaken in April, 1848,
+by surveyor E. B. Kennedy, along the strip of land between Cape York and
+Rockingham Bay in Northern Australia, whose melancholy fate is described
+by one of the survivors, Mr. Carron, a botanist, in a not less simple than
+affecting manner. "When we first started everything went on well, and the
+most brilliant anticipations were indulged, although there were numerous
+obstacles to be overcome, and the few natives we encountered were
+invariably hostile. Gradually, however, provisions began to fail; sickness
+and loss of strength succeeded, while the prospect of reaching our goal
+grew less and less. The further north we got, as the hot season was now
+setting in, the more frequently did we find the forest rivulets dried up,
+so that we had for days to bear up against an almost maddening thirst. The
+horses which accompanied the expedition gradually sank from exhaustion."
+Almost every day Carron's journal mentions one or the other horse giving
+in of fatigue, when they were compelled for want of further provision to
+eat its flesh during the next two days. That of the last was conveyed
+along by the travellers in sacks, made from the skin of the animal itself.
+Whenever they encountered natives, these proved hostile, and assailed the
+little caravan with spears. Some of them indeed were more friendly, and
+traded with the travellers, but less out of sincere hospitality than with
+the hope of taking them in, and getting them unawares into their power.
+Thus, on one occasion a number of tall, well-made, powerful men and women
+made their appearance, and offered them some fish, which they themselves
+refused to eat owing to its putrified state. Hardly had the travellers
+approached it, unsuspicious of evil, when a cloud of spears cleft the air
+with a whistling noise, and the scene, hitherto so friendly and peaceable,
+became at once a scene of blood and confusion. However, the spear-men
+seemed to have no great dexterity; they usually missed their mark, whereas
+the flints and double-barrels of the whites did deadly execution. One
+however proved more fatal than the rest, and killed Mr. Kennedy, the chief
+of the party. They were now only a few days distant from Cape York, the
+goal of their labours, whence a Government ship was to convey the leader
+and his party back to Sydney. But the survivors were also all but
+exhausted with the terrible fatigues of their journey. Only three out of
+the fourteen survived, and these were reduced almost to skeletons.
+Carron's elbow-bone of the right arm, and also the bone of the right hip,
+were through the skin! (Narrative of an Expedition undertaken under the
+direction of the late Mr. Assistant Surveyor, E. B. Kennedy, for the
+Exploration of the Country lying between Rockingham Bay and Cape York; by
+W. Carron, one of the survivors of the Expedition. Sydney, 1849.)
+
+Still more lamentable was the fate of the last and most important of these
+expeditions, which in 1861 succeeded in crossing the Australian continent
+from the north frontier of South Australia to Carpentaria, and back to
+Cooper's Creek, in which, unfortunately, the travellers missed the dépôt
+troop that had been sent to their assistance, and the entire party,
+including Messrs. Burke, Wills, and Gray, lost their lives, only one of
+their number, King, escaping to tell their sad fate. (Vide Appendix.)
+
+[10] Government has bethought itself of a plan for facilitating
+discoveries in the interior, and rendering them more profitable by
+importing from Egypt into Australia camels and dromedaries, chiefly of the
+breed known as El Hura, as these animals can easily get over 60 to 80
+miles per diem, and can moreover dispense with water for weeks together.
+
+[11] During a visit which our naturalists paid to Dr. Bennett they were
+shown a young pair of the Morok (_Casuarius Bennetti_), discovered not
+long since at New Britain, which he intended to present to the Zoological
+Society of London for exhibition at the Regent's Park. What is very
+remarkable in this singular bird is the shape of the bill, which is curved
+in the male, but almost straight in the female.
+
+[12] This distinguished gentleman, conspicuous alike as a theologian and a
+politician, who plays a by no means insignificant part in the legislative
+assemblies of the colonies, presented an address to the Parliament of
+Frankfort in 1848, in which he set forth the advantage of founding a
+German colony in the Pacific. Owing to the ignorance prevalent on the
+subject this _brochure_ passed unnoticed, and New Caledonia, the island
+which the worthy Doctor had designed for a German colony, was taken
+possession of by the French. He has since published a most interesting and
+valuable work on Queensland, in which he gives some very curious details
+about the native practice of skinning their dead, when the true skin being
+of a white colour, the corpse has a most ghastly appearance. He says this
+is the reason some of the tribes so highly reverence the _white_ man, whom
+they regard as their own ancestors restored to life, but in an improved
+nature!!
+
+[13] The depopulation of the natives is advancing so rapidly that one of
+our Sydney friends writes, "An expedition similar to your own, which shall
+visit us some years hence, will find little more than a scant remnant of
+the aborigines. That of the _Novara_ is probably the last of a scientific
+nature, which will have been successful in seeing living specimens of the
+once numerous blacks of Australia."
+
+[14] _Wullurah_ in the native language signifies "the place of
+deliberation," because in former times this place had, on account of its
+commanding position, been selected by the aborigines for assembling the
+various tribes by means of watch-fires, or blasts of a horn, to decide
+upon peace or war.
+
+[15] On the Clarence river there has been for several years past, in full
+activity, a stearine candle-factory, which pays well, owing to the demand
+at the "diggings" for these candles. In 1856 the value of those
+manufactured was £600,000.
+
+[16] According to English writers this instrument, the peculiar properties
+of which are so well known that we need not enlarge upon them here, has
+also been found in the Sarcophagi of Upper Egypt. In some of the frescos
+now in the British Museum, which illustrate the manners and habits of the
+Ancient Egyptians, a figure is represented in the act of launching the
+Boomerang against a covey of ducks, which are flying out of a thicket.
+
+[17] In Prussia, the annual consumption of spirits would fill a basin one
+mile long, 33 feet wide, and 10 feet deep. In England, the annual quantity
+of _wine_ drunk per head is 0.267 gallon; in France it is 19 gallons! The
+British nation pays annually £70-74,000,000 taxes, and £74,000,000 for
+spirits!!
+
+[18] The rise and fall of the tide at Port Jackson is very small, not
+above four or five feet.
+
+[19] Viz. 1400 men, and 200 women.
+
+[20] This is the nickname given to the violent S. or S.W. wind,
+fortunately of short duration, which so frequently springs up towards
+evening from the "Brickfields," because it brings with it such volumes of
+sand and dust from the eminence known as the Brickfield lying S. and S.W.
+from Sydney, enveloping the entire city in murky clouds of dust. The
+"Brickfielder" is a pretty safe guide as to the weather, as soon as it
+blows the whole sky becomes suddenly covered with clouds, and cool rainy
+weather follows upon the previous heat.
+
+[21] The imports of wool from Germany had, in 1836, risen to 31,766,194
+lbs., but it has since then rapidly receded, owing mainly to the increased
+production in the English colonies.
+
+[22] We present an official account of the live stock in the settlement at
+Port Jackson, May 1st, 1788, which forms an interesting contrast with the
+development of its resources since that period:
+
+                     | S | M | C | B | C |
+                     | t | a | o | u | o |
+                     | a | r | l | l | w |
+                     | l | e | t | l | s |
+                     | l | s | s | s | . |
+                     | i | . | . | . |   |
+                     | o |   |   |   |   |
+                     | n |   |   |   |   |
+  TO WHOM BELONGING. | s |   |   |   |   |
+                     | . |   |   |   |   |
+  -------------------|---|---|---|---|---|
+  Government         | 1 | 2 | - | 2 | 2 |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Governor           | - | 1 | 3 | - | 2 |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Lieut.-Governor    | - | - | - | - | - |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Officers & men   } | - | - | - | - | 1 |
+  of the detachment} |   |   |   |   |   |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Staff              | - | - | - | - | - |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Other individuals  | - | - | - | - | - |
+  -------------------|---|---|---|---|---|
+       Totals        | 1 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 5 |
+
+                    |  Sheep.   | G | H | P | R | T | G | D | F | C |
+                    |           | o | o | i | a | u | e | u | o | h |
+                    |           | a | g | g | b | r | e | c | w | i |
+                    |           | t | s | s | b | k | s | k | l | c |
+                    |           | s | . | . | i | e | e | s | s | k |
+                    |           | . |   |   | t | y | . | . | . | e |
+                    |           |   |   |   | s | s |   |   |   | n |
+                    |           |   |   |   | . | . |   |   |   | s |
+  TO WHOM BELONGING.|           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   | . |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  ------------------+-----------|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
+  Government        |{Ram     1 |  1| 20| - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
+                    |{Ewes   12 |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+                    |{Wethers 3 |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Governor          |{Ewe     1 | - | 10| - |  3|  5|  8| 17| 22| - |
+                    |{Lamb    1 |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Lieut.-Governor   |   -       |  1|  1|  7| - |  5|  6|  4|  9| - |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Officers & men   }|   -       | 12| 10| 17|  2|  6|  9|  8| 55| 25|
+  of the detachment}|           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Staff             |   -    11 |  5|  7|  1| - |  2|  6|  6| 36| 62|
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Other individuals |   -       | - |  1| - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
+  ------------------+-----------|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
+       Totals       |        29 | 19| 49| 25|  5| 18| 29| 35|122| 87|
+
+At present there are in this colony, 180,000 horses, 2,148,660 cattle, and
+109,160 pigs.
+
+[23] The sheep-breeders of the colony competed for the honour of
+purchasing these valuable animals.
+
+[24] The distance of the various gold-fields from Sydney and the various
+harbours of the colony is as follows. _Western Gold-fields_,--Bathurst 110
+miles, Sofala 140, Orange 141, Ophir 146, Mudgee 155, Tambaroora 157,
+Meroo 160, Louisa Creek 176, Tuena 190. _Southern_,--Goulburn 125,
+Queanbeyan 182, Braidwood 184, Bill's Creek 190, Araleun 200, Sundagai
+244, Cooma 254, Tumut 264, Adelong 273, Albury 286, Obin's River 410,
+Kiandra or Guoroy River, over Twofold Bay and Bambula, 240 miles.
+_Northern_,--Hangus Rock 304, Bingera Creek 365, Rocky River 357, Tamworth
+280, Timbarra 67 miles from Clarence River, _viâ_ Grafton, overland. The
+other gold-fields of the Clarence River District, such as Lubra, Toolam,
+Emu Creek, Pretty Gully, Sandy Creek, Table Land, Nelson's Creek, &c., are
+80 to 100 miles from the river.
+
+[25] The colony of New South Wales consisted at that period of the entire
+land comprised between Cape York in 11° 37' S. to South Cape, 43° 30' S.,
+and as far as 135° E. in the interior to the westward, including all
+islands adjoining, comprised within those degrees of latitude.
+
+[26] Die Deportation als Strafmittel in alter und neuer Zeit, und die
+Verbrecher-Colonien der Engländer und Franzosen in ihrer geschichtlichen
+Entwickelung und criminal-politischen Bedeutung. Dargestellt von Franz v.
+Holtzendorf, &c. Leipzig, A. Barth. 1859.
+
+[27] The cost of transport of each convict was to be reckoned at £18.
+
+[28] This Archipelago, remarkable by the size and loftiness of its
+islands, extends from Batoa or South Island in the S.E. (19° 47' S. by
+179° 52' E.), to Thicombea to the N. (15° 47' S.), and Biva to the W.
+(176° 50' E.), and contains 225 islands and islets, of which about 80 are
+inhabited. The entire superficial area is about 5700 square miles, and
+upon a superficial estimate it contains 150,000 souls. The climate seems
+to be eminently suitable for cotton culture, besides which sugar-cane,
+coffee, tobacco, arrow-root, and most probably rice and indigo, may be
+advantageously cultivated. Berchthold Seemann, the well-known botanist,
+who made a scientific exploration of some of the Feejee Islands at the
+expense of the English Government in the Autumn of 1860, discovered in the
+valleys of Naona forests of the sago palm, whose nutritious flour might
+become an important article of export. Dr. Petermann published in the
+latter half of 1861, at page 67 of his valuable "particulars of certain
+important recent discoveries in geography," an interesting synopsis of all
+the latest scientific information respecting the Feejee Archipelago.
+
+
+                          [Illustration: Maori]
+
+
+
+
+                                  XIX.
+
+                                Auckland.
+
+         Stay from 22nd December, 1858, to 8th January, 1859.
+
+    Request preferred by the Colonial Government to have the
+    coal-fields of the Drury District thoroughly examined by the
+    geologists of the _Novara_.--Geographical remarks concerning New
+    Zealand.--Auckland.--The Aborigines or Maori.--A Mass meeting.--
+    Maori legends.--Manners and customs of the Aborigines.--The
+    Meri-Meri.--Most important of the vegetable esculents of the
+    Aborigines before the arrival of the Europeans.--Dr. Thomson's
+    anthropological investigations.--Maori proverbs and poetry.--The
+    present war and its origin.--The Maori king.--Decay of the
+    native population and its supposed causes.--Advantages held out
+    by New Zealand to European emigration.--Excursion to the
+    Waiatarna valley.--Maori village of Oraki.--Kauri forests in the
+    Manukau range.--Mr. Smith's farm in Titarangi.--St. John's
+    College.--Intellectual activity in Auckland.--New Zealand silk.--
+    Excursion to the coal-fields of the Drury and Hunua Districts.--
+    New Year's Eve at the Antipodes.--Dr. Hochstetter remains in New
+    Zealand.--The Catholic mission in Auckland.--Two Maories take
+    service as seamen on board the _Novara_.--Departure.--The
+    results of the explorations of the geologist during his stay at
+    the island.--Crossing the meridian of 180° from West to East.--
+    The same day reckoned twice.--The sight of the islands of Tahiti
+    and Eimeo.--Arrival in the harbour of Papeete.
+
+
+Great was the interest excited at the Antipodes by the arrival of the
+_Novara_, for besides the importance for European emigration of a country
+possessing a healthy climate, a fertile soil, and but thinly peopled, it
+was most gratifying to the members of the first Austrian Expedition to see
+much hitherto unsuspected natural wealth made known to the inhabitants by
+one of their scientific staff, and thus to prove of use to a nation which
+in almost every part of the globe has so incontestably borne away the palm
+in advancing the interests of science and the development of the treasures
+of the earth.
+
+Immediately after our arrival in Auckland, the Governor of the colony,
+Colonel Gore Browne, renewed the request, previously made in his name to
+our Commodore while at Sydney by Sir William Denison, that he would permit
+our geologist to make a proper scientific examination of a portion of the
+Drury District, in which there were certain indications supposing to point
+to the existence of coal-fields. Upon his report would depend the
+exploration and the establishing of a regular system of working the mines.
+The little Expedition to the coal-fields, which was most munificently
+equipped by the Government, proved successful beyond all expectation, so
+much so as to induce the Governor to beg of our Commodore the further
+favour of permitting our geologist to make a still longer stay on the
+island, for the purpose of more accurately and completely surveying the
+dependency. The negotiations upon this subject, fraught with such happy
+results for both parties, will be found in the Appendix, while at the end
+of this chapter we shall give a succinct sketch of what was accomplished
+in the interests of science by the activity of Dr. Hochstetter, our
+geologist, during his stay in New Zealand, the more copious details of his
+eight months' stay at the Antipodes being reserved for a special volume.
+
+New Zealand consists of two large islands separated from each other by
+Cook's Straits, a splendid channel, 150 miles long by 50 in width, and the
+two smaller islands, called Stewart's and Chatham Islands, about 50 by 20,
+separated by Foveau Straits, the latter lying in the ocean about 400 miles
+south-west of the province of Canterbury.
+
+The entire group extends from 34° to 48° S., and 166° to 179° E. The
+greatest extent of land, from N.E. to S.W., i. e. from Cape Maria Van
+Diemen to South Cape, is over 1000 miles. The greatest breadth, along the
+parallel of 38° S. is about 200 miles, while the coast-line is several
+thousand miles in extent. By the constitution of 1853, New Zealand is
+divided into six chief provinces:--Auckland, New Plymouth (Taranaki), and
+Wellington in the north island, and Nelson, Canterbury, and Otago, in the
+central islands, since which period two new provinces have been
+added,--Hawk Bay in the north island, and Marlborough in the middle
+island.
+
+None of the remaining seven, however, is so important or possesses such
+geographical advantages as Auckland. Its coast-line is upwards of 900
+nautical miles, while its more important rivers, such as the Waikato,
+Waipa, Waihó (called also the Thames), Piako, and Wairao, are navigable
+for small boats far into the interior. Of its 28 harbours, four, viz. Bay
+of Islands, Auckland, Wangaroa, and Middle Harbour, are accessible
+throughout the year for large ships, besides offering secure anchorage;
+but of the remainder only eight will admit vessels of 400 tons, while the
+balance can only be used by small brigs and schooners.
+
+Auckland, the capital, lies on an isthmus about six miles in width,
+dividing Waitemata Harbour from that of Manukau, the first being beyond
+all question the best harbour on the east side, the former on the west.
+These two harbours furnish moreover, by the numerous streams and creeks
+that disembogue into them, most excellent means of communication with the
+interior. The products of the country through a region of 100 miles are
+conveyed to Waitemata by the Waihó and Piako rivers, while on the other
+hand the Waikato and Waipa rivers bring to the harbour of Manukau the
+natural products from 120 miles inland. At a comparatively small cost a
+cut might be carried through the isthmus, at a point where it is only a
+mile and a half wide, and direct water communication be thus effected
+between the two harbours, to the manifest advantage of the country and
+capital. At present the mail steamer, which comes from Sydney once a month
+with the European letters, berths in Manukau Harbour, near Onehunga, on
+account of the greater convenience of that harbour, and its being at a
+much less distance, whence the mails are transported in coaches across
+the isthmus to Auckland. Onehunga is a flourishing settlement, with
+interesting volcanic formations. The road thither lies through a fertile
+rolling country, which is, for the most part, reclaimed and under
+cultivation, or else depastured by large herds of handsome, powerful oxen.
+The three land-marks of the landscape are:--Three King's Hill, Mount Eden,
+and One Tree Hill. All these, of moderate elevation, were formerly crowned
+with _páhs_ or native fortified villages, and were once inhabited by a
+large population, as is evidenced to this day by the quantities of human
+bones found in the lava below, and by several singular terrace-like
+artificial earth-works. The cottages of the settlers are handsome and
+clean, but of singularly small dimensions, very much the result we suppose
+of the dearness of building material and the high price of labour near
+Auckland.
+
+According to the census of 1857 the entire population of New Zealand
+amounted to 108,204,[29] the white European population numbering 52,155,
+of whom 16,315 persons inhabited Auckland (9038 men, and 7277 women).
+
+The aborigines (Maori in the native tongue) are officially returned at
+56,049, of whom by far the larger number, above 38,000, inhabit the
+province of Auckland. Of all the savage races with whom England has come
+in contact in the course of her mighty struggles to open trade and raise
+humanity, the New Zealanders have hitherto proved themselves to be the
+most susceptible of European civilization. More than five-sixths of their
+number are already Christians, and have been baptized, and, settled down
+in comfortable residences, maintain themselves by agriculture or
+sailoring. More than one hundred vessels built in the colony are owned by
+natives, who not alone have in their hands a considerable portion of the
+coasting trade, but carry on business with the adjoining islands, as also
+with New South Wales. While Bushmen, Hottentots, Caffres, Australian
+negroes, all, like the Indian tribes of Canada and the United States,
+present the helpless type of misery and decay, all the indications here
+seem to promise that the splendid spectacle will be presented of one of
+the most savage, yet highly gifted, races of the globe being raised in the
+scale of humanity by education and culture, and brought permanently within
+the scale of civilization. Whoever has followed with critical eye the
+immense increase of this colony during the last twenty years, must indulge
+this cheering anticipation not less confidently than the traveller who has
+traversed the entire island totally unmolested, has been cordially
+welcomed in every hut, has encountered everywhere schools and Christian
+missions, and has seen the natives occupied solely with the avocations of
+peace. Those native chiefs, who from contact with civilization had already
+adopted the outward deportment and mode of life of the European settlers,
+omitted no opportunity of confessing in language of fire the
+consciousness of their former moral degradation, and of holding the
+European up for admiration, as the founder of a new era of morality and
+humanity in their country; nay, one Maori, who is now a zealous missionary
+in the interior of the island, once avowed to his hearers that he had
+himself as a boy eaten human flesh, and had first learned through the
+influence of Christianity to comprehend the abominations and wild-beast
+ferocity of his previous state, after which he had begun to lead a life
+more worthy of the dignity of manhood.
+
+The members of our Expedition also enjoyed the opportunity of attending a
+Mass-meeting of Maories in the Takapuna district on the north shore of
+Waitemata Harbour, where they gathered, from the orations of the most
+influential chiefs and speakers, the liveliest conviction of their
+fidelity and attachment to the Queen of England and her government. We
+insert here a pretty full description of this remarkable meeting, as well
+as a brief sketch of the most interesting manners and customs of the
+aborigines of New Zealand, in order to enlighten the reader as to the
+justice of the universally expressed distrust of the capacity of the Maori
+for civilization, and the more readily to form an idea of the alarm and
+astonishment of the English Government, on being suddenly informed that
+the entire native population had rose in arms against the European
+settlers.
+
+A wealthy and much-respected chief, named Patuóni, has been in the habit
+for many years past of inviting all the friendly tribes residing in his
+neighbourhood, as well as the most distinguished of the white settlers,
+to a great popular fête every Christmas. The intelligence that on the
+present occasion the "Kavana" (Governor), or Commander of one of Queen
+Victoria's allies, would attend with a numerous suite, had caused much
+agreeable excitement among the Maori, and they offered to send some
+war-canoes and two whale-boats to the coast opposite in order to convey
+the guests. The staff of the Expedition were however already at the place
+of meeting in the Takapuna district, when the war-canoes arrived at the
+usual place of embarkation in Auckland. Here we saw a number of large
+tents pitched on an eminence, and gaily adorned with English and other
+flags, under which were very long narrow tables, about two feet high,
+covered with neat little baskets elegantly woven of the leaves of the New
+Zealand flax, in which were cooked potatoes, roast-pork, and fish. The
+guests, 300 or 400 in number, sat on the ground, which was thickly covered
+with fern freshly gathered, some sitting cross-legged, others squatting on
+their heels, zealously excavating the food with their fingers, for the use
+of forks has not yet become a fashion among the Maori. The chief beverage
+was tea, and all around on the grass adjoining the tent might be seen
+improvised fire-places, on every one of which a huge kettle of boiling
+water was singing. The gait and extravagance however of but too many
+indicated that less harmless drinks were being supplied close by. Each as
+soon as he had finished his repast lighted his pipe, and mingled with the
+groups that were chatting about. Tobacco smoking has become a positive
+passion with both sexes, and even among the children of the poorer classes
+it is no unusual thing to see the infant carried in the arms coolly take
+the pipe out of its mother's mouth and begin to smoke it! The earthen
+pipe, broken off so short that there is barely sufficient to enable the
+teeth to take hold,--in one word, summing up everything to English
+ears--the "cuttie"--is most in favour.
+
+Scarcely was it rumoured that the Commander of the Austrian frigate with
+his staff were at hand, ere the whole crowd, which up to that moment had
+been abandoning itself to enjoyment, suddenly dispersed _pêle-mêle_ in
+wildest confusion. The gay flags were removed from the tent-peaks, and
+made to veil the scene of uproar; a quick but monotonous song, alternating
+with measured stamping with the feet, was droned out, the chiefs
+brandishing aloft and swinging with wild gesticulations their costly clubs
+(_meri-meri_, literally "Fire of the Gods"), made of primitive rock. Each
+Maori who had a club beside him swung it with wild gesticulation, while
+the rest tossed in the air the ends of their woollen garments. In order to
+give us a more complete idea of their ancient customs, a war-dance
+succeeded to this, in which men, women, and children took a part. Although
+this is nothing but a confused advance and retreat of two bodies of people
+arranged opposite each other in regular order, who suddenly rush towards
+each other with impetuous vehemence and loud discordant cries, yet the
+wild shrieks, the rapid motions of those who took part in it, the rolling
+of the eyes, the protrusion of the tongues, combined to make a formidable
+impression, and to give some idea of the frightful appearance of these
+warriors, when, instead of simulated rage, they were animated by the
+ferocity of real warfare with the foe! As soon as symptoms of lassitude
+and fatigue began to be visible among the war-dancers they arranged
+themselves, at the command of the old chief, Patuóni, on both sides, three
+ranks deep, and permitted the strangers to pass from end to end of the
+camp. Here we were once more welcomed in genuine New Zealand fashion by
+the various chiefs, some of whom endeavoured to strike up a conversation.
+Mr. W. Baker, Government interpreter, and Secretary to the Native
+Department, who had been desired by Government to attend the _Novara_
+staff to the feast, was so kind as to translate.
+
+The first to emerge from the ranks was Paora Tuhaera of Oraki, who spoke
+as follows: "Welcome, O chief from a foreign shore, messenger of a king
+and a nation of which we only lately have heard tell! Our English friends
+explained to us that your countrymen have long been friends and allies of
+the British people, whose Queen is our protectress, and under whose laws
+we live in undisturbed tranquillity on our own lands. You are a stranger
+among us! You for the first time behold a race whose fathers passed their
+lives in ignorance, in war, in the practice of every evil custom. You have
+been present at this place and witnessed how we sought once to give vent
+to our passions and to scare our enemies. This spectacle you saw in
+peace, and no man ventured or even thought of lifting the hand against
+you! Yet had you come among us at the period of which I spoke, our arm
+would have been raised to inflict the deadly blow upon you, or your hand,
+which I have just pressed, would have been striking at me to compass my
+destruction! You have seen many lands, many perhaps fairer than this
+island of ours; but here there is nothing to injure us or to make us wish
+to live in other countries. The laws of England shield us from the hand of
+the aggressor, we live happy and at peace, and rejoice to welcome those
+who, like you, come to us on a mission of good will!"
+
+This speech and the two following, the Commodore responded to in English,
+in terms of warm cordial thanks, and enlarged on the material and
+intellectual progress of the aborigines, all which was duly translated by
+Mr. Baker to the Maories.
+
+After this Cruera Patuóni of Awataha, an elder brother of
+Tamati-Waka-Néni, advanced and said: "Welcome! welcome! The young men have
+welcomed you, and I, an old man, a friend of the Europeans from the
+earliest days in which they planted foot in New Zealand, I also bid you
+welcome! What can I say more? You have heard what we were,--you see now
+what we are! It needs not that I should add to what has been said by those
+who spoke before me. Welcome then to the land of the Maories, friends of
+the white man."
+
+After several more of the younger chiefs had greeted the Commodore and
+staff in the most hearty manner, Hui Haupapa, of colossal stature and
+frank expression of countenance, made with his powerful arm a passage for
+himself through the compact crowd, placed himself in a somewhat theatrical
+position, and began in a loud voice, and in evident excitement,
+brandishing his meri-meri as he spoke:--
+
+"The chiefs of this neighbourhood have welcomed thee. My tribe lives far
+from here, but _I_ am here, and I bid thee welcome! Thou hast said we are
+happy and live at peace. It is true the laws of our Queen have contributed
+to this fortunate state of things. Formerly, war, murder, and spilling of
+blood formed our chief occupation. Even now troubles arise, which it is
+often difficult to smooth over. Just as thou wert landing we were engaged
+reading a letter informing us that a dispute of long standing between the
+Ngatiwhatua and the Uriohare threatened to give rise to a war. Were we
+still in our old Maori state we should assuredly have had recourse to arms
+for its settlement, but the two tribes will remember that the laws do not
+permit one family of our Queen's children to make war against another, and
+they will therefore restrain their anger in the hope that their
+differences may be amicably arranged. But what interest have these things
+for you? You came to us in peace and friendliness, take with you the love
+of the entire assembly, which is proud of having been visited by an
+officer of the great king, who is a friend of Queen Victoria and her
+children."
+
+The natives, who were standing closely packed on either side, and listened
+in breathless silence, expressed their acquiescence by head and hand at
+the end of each oration. The manner in which they are accustomed to
+express themselves at these assemblies is quite unique. The speaker plants
+himself at a distance of about ten steps from his audience, whom he
+gradually approaches in his speech till within three feet, when he turns
+round in silence, resumes his former distance, and begins anew. This
+custom has several advantages; it gives the orator time to collect his
+thoughts, while his eloquence has time to sink into the heart of his
+hearers. Each speaker advances his opinions and sentiments with singular
+calmness and dignity. Only at certain "points," which seem to him to be of
+importance, does the orator throw up his right hand, while on his left
+arm, hanging by his side, lies his stone club, without which no chief
+would think of addressing a meeting.
+
+During these speeches we had drawn near the groups surrounding us. The
+majority were dressed in European clothes, the chiefs usually wearing a
+black cap with gold band, the rest in the most various costumes,
+apparently as accident or caprice had dictated their choice. The old men
+were tattooed more or less, according to their rank, strongly contrasting
+with their European habiliments. The elder women, except that they were
+bare-footed, were mostly clad in European dress, some even in elegant
+silks and muslins, and had their lips and chins tattooed, whereas the
+young folk of both sexes no longer followed that custom, and hence we
+frequently had occasion to remark exceedingly agreeable features. Only a
+very small number of aborigines seemed to be contented with their own
+national dress, and wore either the universal blanket, or else the Cacahu,
+a handsome kind of cloak, very artistically made by the Maori women from
+the fibres of the New Zealand flax. All had the flaps of their ears
+pierced, and a piece of oval-shaped rock passed through the orifice, or
+were adorned with shark's teeth, which are usually made fast to a narrow
+black silk ribbon. As we inspected some of these groups, and especially
+were admiring their splendid figures, we came upon two individuals who had
+hid their heads under their blankets, and were weeping bitterly. To our
+inquiry as to the cause of their uncontrollable grief amid such a festive
+gathering, we were told that they were two relatives who had long been
+separated, and were thus celebrating their meeting again. Friends and
+relations usually express their joy at seeing each other again by sitting
+for hours together, according to their friendship or esteem, rubbing noses
+and sobbing bitterly, and weeping over each other the while! If unobserved
+this will go on with uncovered head; otherwise they will draw a blanket
+over themselves. Kissing and hand-shaking have only become a fashion among
+the New Zealanders since their more intimate intercourse with Europeans.
+
+As we withdrew from this singular never-to-be-forgotten people's festival,
+and were on our way to our boats, the entire merry multitude assembled on
+the slope in front of the tents, and to show, it may be supposed, that
+they were not unacquainted with the usages of other countries, gave, with
+genuine English good-will, three rousing hurrahs in honour of the
+departing guests!
+
+The study of the language and history of the traditions, habits, and
+morals of the aborigines of New Zealand, must necessarily be of special
+interest on account of our presumed acquaintance with the race they are
+descended from, and the important conclusions thence deducible as to the
+settlement of Polynesia at large.
+
+A Maori legend relates that their first progenitors came in seven canoes
+from the island of Hawaiki (i. e. cradle of the race), one of the Sandwich
+Islands, 4000 miles to the N.E. of New Zealand.[30] These canoes had
+outriggers to prevent foundering, and were called Amatiatia, whereas those
+they now use, which are also of very simple construction, are named Wakka,
+and have evidently borrowed their form from the dried seed of the New
+Zealand honey-suckle (_Rewarewa_). The first canoe that came from Hawaiki
+was named Arawa. It brought over Honmaitawiti, Tamakekapua, Toi, Maka,
+Hei, Jhenga, Tauninihi, Rongokako, and others, and these were the first
+settlers from whom the New Zealanders are descended.
+
+One of the earlier authors respecting these isles of the Antipodes,
+Richard Taylor, the missionary, relates that in 1840 there was living in
+the village of Para-para, on the road from Kaitaia to Doubtless Bay, an
+aged New Zealand chief named Hahakai, who was thoroughly conversant with
+the history of his native land, and used to enumerate twenty-six
+generations since the first arrival on the island of the ancestors of his
+tribe. Taylor is of opinion, however, that a number of these generations
+must be considered as divinities, and that hardly more than fifteen
+generations or five hundred years can have elapsed since the first
+vagrants from the north settled in New Zealand.[31] At that period they
+knew neither the custom of Taboo (the sanctity and inviolability of all
+things) nor cannibalism, both of which customs they first began to
+practise in their adopted country. As the aborigines before the arrival of
+the Europeans possessed no written language, these traditions were usually
+handed down from father to son, while one or more relatives of the more
+influential families of each tribe were duly set apart to study their
+traditions, as well as their laws (_tikanga_) and religious ceremonies.
+The persons thus educated supplied for them the place of annals, books of
+laws, or written precedents.
+
+Both Taylor and Dieffenbach incline to the opinion of older authors
+respecting these twin islands, namely, that at the period when these
+immigrants from the north arrived there, they were inhabited by another
+dark race of a different descent. Against this hypothesis, however, there
+is to be urged that not the slightest vestige of any such race can be
+produced, in addition to which there is but one language spoken throughout
+the extent of the islands, with dialects few in number and hardly
+differing from each other. In none of the many Maori legends is any
+mention made, either express or implied, of any such circumstance, which
+one would think would hardly have been passed over in silence, had the
+islands at the first landing of the emigrants from Hawaiki been inhabited
+by another race. The great disparity in physical frame between
+individuals, recalling now the Malay, now the Chinese type, and even the
+African and Jewish as well, is much more probably explained by the
+intermixture of the New Zealanders with the inhabitants of the various
+island groups, which they visited at the period of their migration.
+
+The Maories are on the whole a handsome race of men, well-built and
+powerful, generally not less in stature than the Europeans, whom they
+resemble somewhat in their complexion, which gives the idea rather of
+being embrowned than naturally brown, by their thin, weak hair, sometimes
+black, sometimes of a chesnut brown, and whom they closely approach in
+their features. Indeed full-blood Maories sometimes have such a European
+aspect, that even the numberless tattoo marks upon their faces do not
+destroy the impression, but have rather the appearance of those "painted
+faces" we are accustomed to see in actors, when they wish to give their
+countenances a more effective cast upon the boards.
+
+The custom of tattooing, or "Moko," is one of those most characteristic of
+this remarkable people, and is worth being described in detail, inasmuch
+as it has been almost entirely discontinued since the diffusion of
+Christianity, for, according to the sentiments of the missionaries, every
+native, henceforth, who submits to this operation is held to have
+renounced Christianity, and to have openly dubbed himself a heathen. It
+has been suggested as the most probable explanation of the rapid spread of
+this painful practice, that the "Moko" imparts to the countenance a
+sterner expression in presence of the enemy, and that the Maori women
+attach more importance to the caresses of a tattooed man than of one whose
+visage is unmarked. Possibly tattooing was a symbol of puberty in both
+sexes, and a token of their being of marriageable age.
+
+At first they contented themselves with marking the face with certain
+straight lines, called by the natives Moko-Kuri, which was the stage it
+had attained when Cook visited these islands. The present complicated
+system of tattooing was first introduced by one of the tribes of the east
+coast by a certain Mataora, and the first man whose face was thus tattooed
+was named Onetunga.
+
+Usually this painful operation is performed by a priest (_Tohunga_), who
+paints, or rather sketches out, one of the many different models with
+black colouring matter upon the face of the person to be tattooed, having
+first obtained his opinion, by showing him his visage reflected in a
+tub-full of water for lack of a mirror. As soon as the latter has
+signified his assent to the design selected, the further process is begun.
+
+The instruments used were the following:--
+
+The "Uhi," a small piece of wood, one extremity of which is armed with a
+small piece of sharp-edged bone, set in a vertical direction. This
+needle-like tool, which was formerly made either of human bones or of
+those of the albatross, has been since supplanted by proper steel
+instruments.
+
+The "Ta" or "Tuki," a stalk of fern, which is pressed upon the Uhi in
+order that it might enter the skin, and bring out the desired pattern.
+
+The necessary colouring stuff (_Ngarahu_) is made from the soot of the
+wood, when burnt, of the Kauri fir (_Dammara Australis_), which is
+collected in the leaves of the Ti-reed (_Cordyline Australis_), and is
+prepared with an infusion of the bark of the Hináu (_Elæocarpus Hinau_),
+in the form of small cones.
+
+Immediately before the tattooing begins, the colouring matter thus
+prepared is moistened with the juice of the fruit of Tupa-kihi (_Coriaria
+Sarmentosa_). The complete "Moko" comprises the face, the hips, and the
+upper surface of the thigh as far as the knee. Every separate tattooing
+has its appropriate name and its special position. Dieffenbach counts 17,
+and Richmond Taylor 19 of these, distinguishable by their several
+markings.
+
+The operation is of so severe a nature, that very frequently it cannot be
+completed without endangering the life of the individual. Only one
+instance is on record, in which a native sat out the whole formidable
+process at one sitting, and he died just as the last line was finished.
+Usually the first tattooing took place at the 18th year, and was continued
+at various intervals. During the process, the patient lies on the ground
+with his head reposing on the bosom of the _Tohunga_, who holds the "Uhi"
+in his left hand, and the "Ta" or "Tuki" in his right, which he strikes
+upon the former with a rapid constant motion. As soon as an incision is
+made, the blood is wiped off with a piece of fine flax, and the colouring
+matter rubbed in. While this is going on the priests and the friends
+standing by keep up a continual chant, in order to cheer the patient and
+stimulate his courage.
+
+After the operation the face swells, and for some time presents a
+downright hideous appearance, and instances have occurred in which it has
+been permanently distorted. Usually, however, the wounds heal after ten or
+twelve days, when the incised lines made by the "Uhi" present a
+bluish-black appearance.
+
+With the women the operation is much more simple, being confined to one
+or two vertical or horizontal lines upon the lip and chin. This tattooing
+occasionally, however, takes place twice, in order to bring out a black
+colour, as the New Zealanders consider a black lip as the very ideal of
+beauty. It also figures as such in the songs chanted by the Tohunga on
+such occasions, of which the following stanzas may be presented as a
+specimen:--
+
+    Be ready, my daughter, to have thyself marked,
+    To tattoo thy chin!
+    That, when thou crossest the threshold of a strange house,
+    They may not say, "Whence cometh this ugly woman?"
+
+    Be ready, my daughter, to have thyself marked,
+    To tattoo thy chin!
+    That thou mayst have a comely aspect,
+    That when thou art bidden to a feast,
+    They may not ask, "Whence cometh this _red-lipped_ woman?"
+
+    To make thyself beautiful
+    Come and be tattooed!
+    That when thou dost enter the circle of dancers,
+    They may not ask, "Whence cometh this woman with the ugly lips?"
+
+The Tohunga is usually well remunerated, and frequently in the course of
+his chant makes allusion to the amount of reward he expects, and indeed
+sometimes stimulates the generosity of his patient by singing amongst
+other ditties, something like
+
+    "The man who is paid well
+    Tattoos beautifully!
+    The man who receives nothing
+    Does not tattoo well!"
+
+The marks, when completely brought out, are so manifold and various that
+hardly any two New Zealanders are to be found who are tattooed entirely
+alike. Accordingly these markings serve neither to indicate variety of
+tribe, nor difference of rank. A slave, if he possess the means, may have
+his face tattooed with the same ornaments as his master. However it
+appears, as we were informed by Colonel Browne, that on the occasion of
+the chiefs ratifying the treaty with the English, they superscribed the
+various documents with the lines upon their faces, like so much heraldic
+blazonry, instead of writing their names.
+
+Another remarkable custom of the Maori consists in the right of the priest
+to declare certain persons and things _taboo_, that is, consecrated and
+inviolable. This custom, which is nothing else than a religious ordinance
+instituted for political purposes, is frequently most beneficial in its
+consequences. So great and universal was the respect paid to the law of
+_taboo_, that even hostile tribes were in the habit during war of leaving
+unharmed all persons and things thus protected. A plot of ground planted
+with esculents, a fruit tree, a sick person, a "lady in the straw,"--all
+these were so many objects declared holy and inviolate.
+
+Formerly polygamy was tolerably frequent among the Maori, although
+instances were by no means rare in which a man had but one wife to whom he
+continued faithful. At present this custom, incompatible with the
+Christian notion of the family tie, is confined to those few chiefs who
+are still heathens.
+
+Usually the young men and girls marry very young. English travellers state
+they have seen a mother only 11 years of age! Usually the first wife of a
+young chief is much older than himself, but, on the other hand, instances
+were frequent of old men marrying young girls. The daughters of men of
+very high rank frequently remained unmarried.
+
+The mortality among infants under a year old is very great. At present not
+more than three children are reckoned to each family, and the number of
+barren marriages is much greater than those that prove fruitful.
+
+Infanticide is at present as rare as in Europe. In former times,
+especially during the wars of the interior, it was by no means unusual for
+a mother to put her children to death, especially if females, in order to
+spare herself the trouble of nursing and bringing up. Male offspring, on
+the contrary, were taken more care of, because they would increase the
+aggressive power of the tribe, and were looked upon as the avengers of
+injuries sustained and not yet compensated. Illegitimate children they
+almost always put to death, either by strangling them or compressing the
+mouth and nostrils. The practice of infanticide among the weaker sex took
+its rise chiefly in the life of slavery which was the normal state of the
+women during their heathen condition. Such was the reasoning once avowed
+by a murderess of her child:--"Why should my child live? to be brought up
+as the slave of the wives of my husband, to be beaten and kicked by them!"
+
+There seems to be some mistake in the assertion of several writers upon
+the customs prevalent in New Zealand, to the effect that on the death of a
+Maori it is customary to sacrifice his nearest relatives. Only when a
+great chief dies, are some of his slaves occasionally put to death at the
+same time, that their spirits may accompany him who has preceded them to
+the shadowy land, to serve him there, and execute his commands as they did
+while on earth.
+
+So too it occasionally happened that, on the death of a much-esteemed
+chief, a hostile incursion was made by a number of warriors, in order to
+provide a victim from another tribe, and thus make it feel the same pang
+as that which they were suffering in the loss of their chief. Suicide, on
+the death of a near relative, is even at present far from uncommon as a
+token of inconsolable grief. A low estimate of the value of life seems to
+be a leading feature in the character of the New Zealander; it needs but a
+slight cause to make him take his own life or plunge into some abyss.
+
+Slavery, to the extent that existed among the aborigines in former times,
+is no longer to be found, though many prisoners taken in war are still
+held as slaves by their captors. In many cases the slaves prefer to stay
+with their present masters, if they have been well treated, rather than
+return among their own race, from whom they feel themselves estranged,
+and by whom it is probable they have long been forgotten.
+
+The introduction of Christianity was immediately followed by the
+manumission of all slaves throughout the islands. Under the old laws, the
+owner of a slave was undisputed master of his person and property, and
+might put him to death, or sell him,--in short, do with him as he pleased.
+Everything that the slave possessed belonged to his master. Slaves were
+usually made in battle, either during the storming of a fortified village,
+or _páh_, or during flight before a victorious enemy. Each warrior might
+take as many prisoners as he could, who thereupon became his incontestable
+property. Chiefs, however, and youths of rank were usually put to death on
+the spot.
+
+The offspring of such prisoners of war were also slaves, and equally the
+property of their masters. However, it frequently happened that a young
+slave married a girl of the tribe of his conqueror, in which case their
+offspring were no longer considered as slaves, although they were reputed
+of low rank. According to the old Maori laws, there were no slaves other
+than those taken in war and their descendants.
+
+Among the free Maori, there are a number of varying grades; but the
+principles on which they are bestowed do not seem as yet to have been
+accurately ascertained by any European observers. Any individual who is
+able to trace his descent from distinguished parentage of either sex, has
+the right to assume the title of a chief. As a rule, the elder branch of a
+family takes precedence over the younger. The heir-male was always
+regarded as the head of the family, and in the olden times was its priest
+or _tohunga_.
+
+The wars of the Maori were chiefly carried on with spears and clubs of
+various shapes and sizes, but since the arrival of the Europeans the use
+of fire-arms has become almost universal. Hángi, one of the most renowned
+and formidable chiefs, who visited England in 1826, on his return
+exchanged all the splendid presents made him by George IV. for European
+fire-arms and ammunition, in order the more readily to subjugate all the
+races on the island by means of these new and dangerous weapons, and make
+himself omnipotent. Since that period the older warlike implements
+(_taiaha_, _paki_, _ehi_) have only been kept as objects of curiosity for
+the various chiefs to show.
+
+But the most remarkable weapon of the New Zealanders, which was held by
+the chiefs in high honour as an emblem of rank, a sceptre so to speak, and
+which descended from generation to generation, is a piece of nephrite
+beautifully polished, from 10 to 20 inches long, 4 to 5 inches broad, and
+half an inch thick, called by the natives Meri-meri, "the fire of the
+gods," which is pierced at one end, and is usually attached to a cord
+passed round the hand. In the days of heathenism the Meri-meri was used
+occasionally as a weapon of defence, as also to scalp prisoners.
+
+The various weapons of nephrite that we had an opportunity of examining
+were of a pale green colour, which became transparent at the sharp edge,
+which ran all round, and had a peculiar flame-like glow.
+
+The stone from which these costly weapons are made (the manufacture of
+which, in consequence of the dearth of suitable instruments before the
+arrival of the Europeans, was often the work of several generations), is
+found in loose fragments among the various mountain-streams along the west
+coast of the central island. The places where they are found in greatest
+abundance are Arahura and Ohonu on the N.W. coast, beyond Wakatipu, an
+inland lake, one of the sources of the river Matan, and Piopiotahi, a
+mountain-torrent on the S.W. coast. At the last-mentioned place, which,
+although we have little reliable information concerning it, has long been
+known to seal-hunters, a gigantic block of nephrite, many tons weight, was
+found in the middle of the current, which owing to its size was valueless,
+because useless to the aborigines. A sealer, who visited this coast once
+during a flying visit to Sydney, overheard a remark that this description
+of stone was much prized in China, and being aware of the existence of
+this colossal block of nephrite at Piopiotahi, he already beheld himself
+the possessor of considerable wealth. A company was quickly got up, with a
+merchant from Manila at the head, and a number of miners were forthwith
+sent to the spot, in order to blast the huge, unshapen rock into fragments
+admitting of easy transport. After immense labour and incredible hardships
+a few tons of the rock thus blasted were dispatched by the labourers to
+Manila for the purpose of being tested and examined. The workmen remained
+some months at Piopiotahi, anxiously awaiting intelligence of the results
+of their toil. At last, when they had about exhausted their provisions,
+and were still without intelligence, they buried the fruits of their
+exertions, and dispersed themselves among the small Maori settlements
+adjoining Foveau Straits.
+
+The samples of nephrite were duly sent from Manila to China, where they
+proved to be of very poor quality, being disfigured by small black specks.
+For some years after small quantities of nephrite were annually brought
+for sale from the Piopiotahi to Wellington, where they found plenty of
+purchasers among the natives of that district at about 1_s._ per lb.
+
+In former days the Maori used to make long and difficult journeys from the
+east to the west coast of the island, in search for the much-prized stone.
+When found it was usually shaped and polished by rubbing it upon a flat
+sandstone block; this operation was so long and arduous that its
+completion was often the work of two generations; and this is probably the
+main reason why such value is attached to it. The extraordinary hardness
+of the stone, which admits of its being ground to a very sharp edge, also
+made it an excellent substitute for iron in the manufacture of hatchets
+and chisels, the New Zealanders having only become acquainted with that
+metal since their intercourse with the Europeans.
+
+The shape which the Maories gave the Meri-meri when completed, resulting
+from the absence of implements with which to manipulate this stone, which
+is so hard that even iron does not bite it, probably gave rise to the
+notion that when found the stone is in a soft state. Sandstone, however,
+is found efficacious in the process just as it polishes iron also, and the
+holes requisite for suspending it, are made by the very simple process of
+drilling with a piece of pointed hard wood, with fine sand and a little
+water.
+
+Cannibalism may be said to have entirely ceased in New Zealand. Any
+allusion to this revolting practice is very painful to the New Zealander
+of the present day, as reminding him of his former low position in the
+scale of nations. Every time that we endeavoured to make any inquiry of
+the natives respecting this custom, they withdrew with an ashamed look.
+
+In like manner dog's flesh has ceased to be an article of food, ever since
+the introduction of pork by Captain Cook. Formerly the native or Maori
+dog, which at present is very scarce, was eaten on certain occasions,
+while its blood played a somewhat conspicuous part in Maori pharmacy.
+
+The vegetables most extensively used for food before the arrival of the
+Europeans were:--
+
+1. Raorao (_Pteris esculenta_), a fern three or four feet high, which
+covers vast tracts of land, and the root of which, before the introduction
+of the Peruvian potato, formed the chief subsistence of the Maori.
+
+2. Kumara (_Convolvulus Batata_), or sweet potato, the most valuable of
+New Zealand products. Various legends of adventure exist among the natives
+respecting its first introduction. The harvest-time for this plant is
+accompanied by a grand festival, and the fields in which the Kumara is
+grown, as well as the labourers engaged in raising it, were declared by
+the priests _taboo_, or consecrated. Of the varieties of the Kumara, one,
+the size of a yam-root, is named _Kai-pakeha_, or "white man's food," and
+is exceedingly palatable. The common potato (_Solanum tuberosum_) was
+first brought hither from the Cape of Good Hope, by Captain Cook, who
+planted it here.
+
+3. Mamaku (_Cyathea Medullaris_), one of the most elegant tree-ferns in
+the country, whose whole stalk, sometimes 20 feet high, is edible, and is
+sufficient to maintain a considerable number of persons. The pith of the
+Mamaku, when cooked and dried in the sun, is an excellent substitute for
+sago.
+
+Fermented liquors, like the Kawa of the South Sea Islanders, or the Chicha
+of the Indians of Southern and Central America, seem never to have been
+known to the New Zealanders.[32] The only fruits from which liquors are
+occasionally prepared are the Tawa (_Laurus Tawa_) and those of the
+Trepa-Kihi (_Coriaria Sarmentosa_), the latter of which, however, when the
+stamens of many are mingled together, is apt to be followed by symptoms of
+poisoning, resulting in violent convulsions and death.
+
+Although their short stay at Auckland, coupled with other indispensable
+business, did not admit making an adequate number of measurements of the
+physical proportions of both sexes of natives, we nevertheless had an
+opportunity of measuring some individuals, whose appearance seemed to
+present a very fair average.
+
+Here we ought to remark that many years ago, Dr. A. Thomson, surgeon of
+the 58th regiment, impressed apparently with the value of these
+experiments as aiding the diagnostics of various races of men, had made a
+great number of measurements of the natives during a long residence on the
+island. These, however, were mainly confined to height, weight, magnitude
+of chest, and physical strength of individuals, but which are of much
+value, having been compared at the time with similar results obtained from
+an equal number of British soldiers, thus furnishing most interesting
+standards of comparison for the two races. Dr. Thomson measured, for
+instance, the height of 147 natives, and found them to average 5 ft. 6-3/4
+inches. Of these, 35 measured 5 ft. 6 in. to 5 ft. 7 in.; 20 from 5 ft. 5
+in. to 5 ft. 6 in.; 2 from 5 ft. 11 in. to 6 ft.; one 6 ft. 1 in.; and one
+who measured 6 ft. 5-1/2 in. Of 617 men of the 58th regiment, the average
+height was 5 ft. 7-3/4 inches.
+
+Like the English, the Maories attain their full stature after they have
+completed their 20th year, the average height of 46 individuals between 16
+and 20 being 5 ft. 6 in., whereas of individuals between 21 and 25 it was
+5 ft. 6-3/4 inches, the average height of the human race in the temperate
+climes of Europe being 5 ft. 5 in. to 5 ft. 6 in., according to Haller.
+
+The weight of New Zealanders, as compared with that of English soldiers,
+gave the following remarkable result in the case of 150 men of both races
+who were examined at Auckland:--
+
+   8 Maories weighed more than 112 lbs., but less than 126 lbs.
+                                                              avoirdupois.
+  25   "       "      "    "   126 "     "    "    "   140  "       "
+  54   "       "      "    "   140 "     "    "    "   154  "       "
+  41   "       "      "    "   154 "     "    "    "   168  "       "
+  19   "       "      "    "   168 "     "    "    "   182  "       "
+   3   "       "      "    "   182 "     "    "    "   196  "       "
+
+The average weight of a Maori, deducting their mats and clothes, is about
+141 lbs.; of 617 Europeans (both English and Irish), who were weighed, the
+average weight was 143 lbs. Dr. Thompson found the natives under 21 less
+fully developed than soldiers of the same age, but after that the Maori
+began to turn the beam as regards weight.
+
+The girth of the chest, measured above the nipples, gave as the average of
+151 natives 35.36 inches; of 628 soldiers of the 58th regiment, 35.71
+inches. Between 16 and 20 the chest of the native is more than half an
+inch less than that of the European; a little later it is found to be
+about the same.
+
+In order to test the physical and muscular strength of the Maori, Dr.
+Thompson made them lift the utmost weights they could from the ground,
+with the following results from 31 individuals on whom he experimented:--
+
+  6 New Zealanders lifted 410 to 420 lbs.
+  2      "          "     400 "  410  "
+  5      "          "     390 "  400  "
+  3      "          "     380 "  390  "
+  6      "          "     360 "  380  "
+  5      "          "     340 "  360  "
+  2      "          "            336  "
+  2      "          "     250 "  266  "
+
+The average of the foregoing gives 367 lbs., the highest being 420 lbs.,
+the lowest 250 lbs. A similar experiment made with 31 soldiers of the 58th
+regiment (averaging in weight 144 lbs.) gave the following figures:--
+
+   2 soldiers lifted 504 lbs.
+   6   "        "    460  " to 480 lbs.
+  14   "        "    400  " "  460  "
+   9   "        "    350  " "  400  "
+
+Thus the average weight which the British soldiers could lift from the
+ground was 422 lbs., or 55 lbs. more than the Maori.
+
+Perron in his "Voyage des Découvertes aux Terres Australes," observed as
+the result of numerous experiments, that the weakest Frenchman had more
+muscular strength than the most powerful native of Van Diemen's Land, and
+that the weakest Englishman was stronger than the strongest native of New
+Holland. Judging by that standard, the Maories are of a far more powerful
+build than the Australian aborigines.
+
+What appears to us most interesting in the results of Dr. Thomson's
+observations, is the immense disparity of the muscular strength of the
+Maori as compared with that of the Anglo-Saxon race, although in height,
+weight, and girth they so closely resemble them. The main reason of this
+astonishing dissimilarity is undoubtedly due in the main to the
+exclusively vegetable diet of the New Zealanders, which it is well known
+promotes the deposition of fat in the system, without proportionately
+increasing the amount of muscular tissue. Moreover the uniform,
+uneventful life of the Maories by no means tends to the development of
+muscular strength.
+
+Dr. Thomson justly remarks that the foregoing facts completely demolish
+the arguments of those who find a pleasure in representing the world as
+degenerating, and mankind as much less powerful and free from blemish than
+in former ages, ere trade and civilization had exercised their
+unpropitious influence upon the habits and manners of mankind. For here we
+have the New Zealanders, living up to the present century a life of the
+most primitive simplicity, yet evidently in respect of mere corporeal
+strength lagging far behind the denizens of a country, where culture and
+machinery have brought about social changes of such magnitude, as no other
+civilized people on the globe can show.
+
+Of few races inhabiting the southern hemisphere, have the proverbs,
+poetry, songs, and traditions been the subject of such zealous study as
+those of the Maori, and no one has made more careful investigation into
+this interesting feature than the present Governor, Sir George Grey, who
+set on foot most minute inquiries into the older history of the Maori,
+which he published in a variety of valuable works,[33] although several of
+the missionaries, as also educated settlers of many years' standing in the
+colony, have extended our acquaintance with the Maori race, by the
+publication of a grammar and dictionary of the Maori language, as also
+many valuable works upon the natural history of the New Zealand
+Islands.[34]
+
+To this most honourable and widely-diffused activity, science is indebted
+for a specimen of literature which furnishes an excellent sample of the
+high cultivation of the native race, and makes us acquainted with moral
+axioms and pieces of poetry which would do honour even to a poet of
+Caucasian descent.
+
+We subjoin a few adages and short poems of Sir George Grey's valuable
+collections, which more especially indicate the dignified character and
+originality of thought of this singular people, and are taken from a
+larger number embraced in Sir George Grey's collection of "Proverbial and
+Popular Sayings" already mentioned.
+
+    Canst thou still the surf that breaks on the Shoal of
+    Rongo-mai-ta-kupe? (Alluding to the difficulty of allaying a
+    revolt.)
+       *       *       *       *       *
+    The little child grows, but the little axe remains for ever
+    little (i. e. manhood is more valuable than any other
+    possession).
+
+    Capricious as a salmon in the stream or a girl on shore.
+
+    The flounder flies back to hide itself in the water it has
+    mudded.
+
+    You can search the dark corner of a house, but not the heart of
+    a man.
+
+    Bad food will not make a man mean, but a noble man makes mean
+    food respectable.
+
+    Kokowai or red ochre sucks up oil when you mix them. (If a chief
+    visits you, he and his followers soon absorb all your property!)
+
+    A smooth tree you may climb, however tall it is; but how can you
+    pass over the sea, glassy as it looks?
+
+    Perhaps, although I am little, you will find me troublesome as a
+    sandfly.
+
+    Although hidden from us, we know there are plenty of roots of
+    the wild convolvulus running under the ground there; so with the
+    evil thoughts of our hearts.
+
+    You won't care to look long at the good food you have before
+    you, but a face you love you can often look at (a pretty wife is
+    better worth getting than a rich one).
+
+    A girl's beauty is like a fine day, a storm soon follows it; so
+    old age and ugliness follow close upon loveliness.
+
+    There are a multitude of stars in the heavens, but a very little
+    cloud covers many of them (meaning that a small band of resolute
+    men may defeat a large number).
+
+    If he had taken refuge on a mountain-top we could have climbed
+    it; if he had taken refuge amidst ocean's surge our canoes could
+    have contended with it; but having taken shelter under the
+    protection of a _mighty chief_, who can reach him there?
+
+    If you have a sperm whale's tooth, you must also have a sperm
+    whale's jaw to carry it!
+
+    Quick in speech, slow to act; promises are quickly made, the
+    body is slow to move.
+
+    A fathomless throat, but no industry; a monster's appetite, but
+    no perseverance in labour.
+
+    He is ascending the snow-capped mountains of Ruahmi (i. e. he is
+    growing old).
+
+    Rangipo and Raeroa started together on a journey. Rangipo
+    carried his god _alone_ with him; Raeroa carried his god on his
+    back, and _food_ in his hand; Rangipo died,--Raeroa lived.
+
+    The block of wood has no business to dictate to the artist who
+    carves it.
+
+    I can scarcely look out eagerly from the hill-top!
+
+    A mouth, ready as a salmon, to spring at its prey.
+
+    He is a descendant of Ki-ki, who was so skilled in magic that
+    his shadow withered trees and plants if it fell on them.
+
+    The grasp of a chief's red hand cannot be loosened, but the
+    grasp of a slave, what strength has it?
+
+    Few are the friends that aid at planting, but when the crops are
+    gathered they come in shoals.
+
+    An old broken canoe may be mended, but youth and beauty cannot
+    be restored:--
+
+    A fat man has been fattened by food, not by active thought; you
+    will find him full, but not wise.
+
+    Women and war are the two dangers of men.
+
+    A woman probably hears the foe sing as they sacrifice to their
+    gods the bodies of her slaughtered relatives (i. e. it is of
+    little use to have a daughter, she will perhaps raise up heirs
+    for your foes).
+
+    Women and land are the causes which destroy men.
+
+    The Moa-bird (_Dinornis gigantea_) trampled down the Rata tree
+    (_Metrosidero Robusta_) when it was young; how then can you
+    expect it to grow straight now? (i. e. it is difficult to
+    overcome early influences.)
+
+    It is from food that a man's blood is made, and it is land which
+    grows his food and sustains him. (Never part with your own land,
+    and do not yield a fertile district.)
+
+    Persist in all as resolutely as you persist in eating.
+
+    Be firm as the surf-beaten rock in the ocean!
+
+    Another man's food you must eat little bits of; food won by your
+    own labour you may eat plenty of, and satisfy your hunger well.
+
+    An axe, though very little, can do as much as a man in clearing
+    away a forest.
+
+    A fish begins nibbling gently upwards before he bites, and you
+    begin a steep ascent from the bottom (from trifling disputes
+    fierce wars arise).
+
+Not less conspicuous is the vigour displayed in the poetical conceptions
+of the Maori. There is in them a depth of sentiment, a vividness of
+imagery, which would almost make us doubtful of their true origin, if the
+original were not at hand to compare with.
+
+Thus, for example, how beautifully do the following lines, borrowed from a
+dirge for the chief Te-Huhu, describe the wild anguish of a warlike
+people, mourning the loss of a beloved leader:--
+
+                            DIRGE OF TE-HUHU.
+
+    Behold the glare of the lightning!
+    It seems as though it had cleft in twain the steep hills of Tuwhare.
+    Dropped from thy hand thy weapon,
+    And thy spirit, it vanished
+    Behind the lofty ridges of Raukawa!
+    The sun hid his face, and hasted away,
+    As a woman hurries from the strife of battle!
+    The waves of ocean mourn as they rise and fall,
+    And the hills of the south melt away!
+    For the spirit of the chieftain
+    Was winging its way to the dwellings of Rona;[35]
+    Open, ye gates of heaven!
+    Tread thou the first heaven! tread thou the second heaven!
+    And when thou dost traverse the spirit land,
+    And its dwellers shall ask thee, "What meaneth this?"
+    Tell that her wings were torn from this our world,
+    When _he_ died, the strong one,
+    Our leader in the roar of battle!
+    Atutahi and the stars of the morning
+    Look pitifully down from their fastnesses,
+    The earth reels to and fro,
+    For the mightiest support of her children lies low!
+    O my friend! the dew of Hokianga
+    Shall penetrate thy body;
+    The waters of the brooks shall dry up,
+    And the land become desolate:
+    I see a cloud rising afar
+    Above the head of Heke the renowned!
+    May he be annihilated, for ever
+    Brought low to nothingness! so may the heart,
+    Now mourning in its depths, ne'er think of evil more!
+
+As deeply imbued with the spirit of true poetry is the following dirge of
+a mother, a heartfelt effusion of maternal affliction for the loss of an
+only daughter:--
+
+                          A LAMENT FOR NGARO.
+
+    Slow wanes the evening star.[36] It disappears
+    To rise again in more glorious skies,
+    Where thousands hasten forward to welcome it.
+    All that is grand and beautiful has no more value to me,
+    For thou wast my sole treasure! O my daughter!
+    When the sunbeams played above the waves,
+    Or glinted through the waving palms,
+    Secretly, but with joy, we marked thy sportive gambols
+    By the sandy shores of Awapoka.
+    Oft in the dawning twilight
+    I beheld thee, girt in thy simple robes,
+    And accompanied by the daughters of thy people,
+    Speed forth, to see gathered the fruit of the Main,[37]
+    While the maidens from Tikoro[38]
+    Sought for thee the mussels hid among the rocks,
+    Braving the blinding surf, and caught for thee
+    The callow brood of the screaming sea-fowl.
+    And when at even the tribes
+    Assembled for the repast,
+    Beloved companions sought to have thee by their side,
+    Eagerly contending who should bestow on thee dainties,
+    That they might win a smile from thy lips;--
+    But where art thou now? Where now?
+    Thou stream which still dost ebb and flow,
+    Flow and ebb no more,
+    For she that did love thee is gone!
+      Well is it for the people, as of old,
+    To assemble at the feast of pleasure!
+    The canoe still cleaves the air,
+    And dashes aside the foam of the heaving sea.
+    As of yore, hovering above the rocky cliffs,
+    The sea-fowl in clouds obscure the sky!
+    But the beloved one comes not!
+    Not even a lock of thy waving tresses
+    Is left us to mourn over!
+
+The truly paternal interest and attention bestowed by the Government on
+the destinies of the New Zealanders, and on the means being adopted to
+raise them morally and materially, as also the repeated asseverations of
+loyalty, fidelity, and gratitude towards the British nation, which were
+constantly in the mouth of the New Zealanders (the Gascons of the South,
+as an English author nicknames them), gave no reason to anticipate that
+the colony was about to become the scene of a war, which can hardly have
+any other result than the total extinction of the small remnant of the
+Maori; for although the English troops have hitherto encountered a severe
+and protracted resistance, and the Maori, intrenched in their _Páhs_,
+required Armstrong guns, bombs, and heavy artillery to be brought against
+them ere they yielded, yet to the impartial observer the issue of the
+contest cannot be for a moment doubtful. This unhappy contest originated
+in the sale of some land in the province of Taranaki, or New Plymouth, on
+the S.W. shores of the Northern Island. A native, named Te Teira (John
+Taylor), had sold to Government, under the provisions of the treaty of
+Waitangi, a small piece of land adjoining New Plymouth. Rangitakí, or as
+he is better known by his Christian name, Wiremu Kingi (William King), a
+resolute and powerful chief of the Ngatiawa tribe, opposed the sale, on
+the ground that Te Teira had in fact no right to dispose of this land
+without his consent, and obstructed the surveyors sent by Government to
+measure the piece of ground. On their being reinforced somewhat later,
+Kingi took up arms to resist them, and intrenched himself on the property
+in dispute. How little the Colonial Government intended to encroach upon
+the Maori privileges, is best shown by the circumstance that the Ngatiawa
+tribe, and their allies of the Taranaki, are but 3000 in number, men,
+women, and children all told, who claim as their property districts
+covering an area of 2,000,000 acres, and during the last twenty years have
+only cultivated some small patches along the coast. The white settlers
+also number about 3000, and with the consent of Government have, during
+that period, purchased 40,000 acres, of which hardly one-fourth part is
+devoted to agricultural purposes. On 17th March, 1860, Kingi was at last
+attacked by the English troops under Colonel Gold. This was the
+commencement of a series of sanguinary combats, carried on with the most
+desperate obstinacy,[39] and the more serious, as it stands out in
+singularly bold relief, that the majority of the missionaries, Bishop
+Selwyn and Archdeacon Hadfield at their head, take part with the Maories,
+and that the learned justice, Dr. Martin, endeavours to prove that the war
+has broken out entirely in consequence of a breach of the rights of
+property by the Colonial Government, and therefore that the conduct of
+the recusant chief, so far from being a rebellion, was a bare vindication
+of right! Nay, it has even been openly stated (and it throws an
+interesting light upon certain political complications in Europe) that the
+Protestant missionaries and certain former _protégés_ of the Government
+are chiefly to blame for the difficulties now existing between the English
+and the natives. Amongst these adversaries a certain Mr. Davis, formerly
+official translator and interpreter, a highly-educated but calculating
+man, who once sung the praises of Sir George Grey, and among other works
+has published the Maori Mementos,[40] so interesting in a historical point
+of view, hit upon the clever notion, in company with a Maori named William
+Thompson, or "The King-maker," of instigating the natives to rebellion.
+With this object in view, they organized far in the interior, among the
+tribes hitherto but little civilized, immense popular gatherings, at which
+in long speeches they always contrived to come back to the assertion that
+the Maories and not the English were the real lords of the soil, and that
+they therefore were entitled to be governed by a king selected from among
+themselves. Thompson, thoroughly versant in the foibles and vanities of
+his countrymen, and supported by ambitious, crafty, intriguing
+foreigners, was speedily master of the situation, and it is much less
+matter of surprise that in 1858 a king was chosen in the person of
+Potatáu[41]-te-Whero-Whero, one of the most renowned of the Waikato tribe,
+than that the Government, from the year 1854, suffered this conduct to go
+unpunished, and with cool indifference beheld the movement grow in
+proportion without taking the slightest precautionary measures!
+
+Only by such indulgence, not to say negligence, did it become possible for
+the native league against the sale of land, and the accompanying King
+movement, to have attained their present importance, the number engaged in
+them having risen to a total of 15,000 able-bodied warriors. Since the
+restrictions recently placed on the importation of weapons and ammunition,
+there have been imported during the last three years fire-arms, powder,
+lead, and caps to the value of £50,000, so that we may estimate their
+present supply of gunpowder at 100,000 lbs. at the least, and the
+fire-arms, exclusive of those imported at the time of Hongi, at about
+20,000 stand.
+
+Already, at Christmas, 1858, when the staff of our Expedition were passing
+a week or two in Auckland, there was a noticeable amount of political
+agitation in various parts of the interior, and we ourselves witnessed
+some chiefs, friendly to the Government, who before starting for a great
+Maori meeting near Drury offered to the Governor their good services, and
+asked his orders. The Maori chiefs, whom Colonel Browne received in his
+study, could only be distinguished from white men by the wonderfully
+copious tattooing on their faces, and were in all other respects attired
+exactly like Europeans. Some wore black round hats and blouses, others
+wore caps. Only in the flaps of their ears they carried small pieces of
+green nephrite, while suspended round the neck by a thick chord was the
+inevitable club-shaped _meri-meri_, that renowned stone weapon which
+descends as an heir-loom in families, and is so highly prized that a New
+Zealander will pay as high as £100 for one. The chiefs candidly remarked
+that at this gathering the selection of a Maori king would come up for
+decision, and they therefore wished, as loyal and true subjects of the
+Queen of England, which they said they always had been and wished to
+continue, to know from the lips of her representative how they ought to
+act in such a case. Colonel Browne, who like most of the British settlers
+in New Zealand seemed to attach but little importance to the whole Maori
+movement, or, if so, did not like to make it known, simply thanked the
+chiefs for this renewed expression of their loyal sentiments, adding in
+the spirit of Maori oratory that "he had already considered them as good
+friends both to himself and the Government, and therefore left them to act
+as they saw best without further pledge, for he felt fully assured, if the
+chief (who had addressed him) should go to this gathering he might feel as
+if his own right hand were there, and everything therefore would result
+entirely as he could wish." Unhappily these anticipations were not
+realized, but on the contrary a war burst forth out of the long-despised
+movement, of such dimensions, and of such terrible cruelty, that the
+results of the civilization of the last twenty years have been seriously
+imperilled, and the original Maori, divesting himself of the whitewash of
+superficial Christianity, has become suddenly visible in all his savage
+thirst for blood. We do not indeed believe that the whole race have been
+seized with this much-to-be-lamented proclivity towards their old
+barbarism, nor that the application of the proverb (parodied from the
+celebrated _mot_ of Napoleon), "Scratch the Maori and you will find the
+savage beneath," receives its full illustration here; but neither, on the
+other hand, can we resist the conviction that a long continuance of
+hostilities will foster old customs, and that a war waged with
+ever-increasing animosity must ultimately result in the decay and
+extinction of the New Zealand aborigines.
+
+Independently of this, there was visible, even during the former days of
+peace and tranquillity, so marked a falling off of the Maori population,
+that the Colonial Government felt called upon to institute most minute
+inquiries as to the supposed causes of this lamentable feature. In a very
+exhaustive work upon this subject, by Mr. F. D. Fenton,[42] we find for
+example that the proportion of births and deaths among the entire
+population--the former of which in England is 1 : 59, and the latter 1 :
+34, and among the white settlers of New Zealand is 1 : 136 and 1 :
+25--gives among the aborigines the following startling results,--deaths 1
+: 33.04, births 1 : 67.13. The cause of this appalling decay of the Maori
+race, which has been steadily going on since 1830, is not alone due to the
+contact of the natives with civilization, but chiefly to the sanguinary
+wars between the various races, of which New Zealand was the theatre for a
+series of years, and the natural results of those wars. For it was not
+merely that in their constant battles the flower of their respective
+tribes lost their lives,[43] but the mothers, to facilitate their own
+escape, put to death most of the female infants at the breast. Upon this
+followed, apparently in consequence of the great privations of their
+wandering life, through hard work and want of nutritious food, a serious
+sterility among the female sex. Whereas, according to Muret, out of 487
+women only 20 (or 1 in 24) are barren on the average, the proportion among
+the Maori amounts to 155 in every 444, or 1 in 2.86.
+
+The want of nutritious and wholesome food, their diet consisting mainly of
+salt-fish, roots, and fruits, the absence of clothing, or any care for the
+body, their wretched abodes, and exposure to the weather, all these causes
+must greatly contribute to the diminution of the race, as affecting the
+conditions of sound health of the present generation, and tending to
+produce those forms of disease, such as scrofula, pulmonia, phthisis, &c.,
+by which the Maories and their offspring are at present decimated. Dr.
+Fenton also adduces the intermarriage of near relations among the New
+Zealanders as one prominent cause of their disease and physical
+degeneracy. These near alliances, however, at least among the lower
+classes, do not seem so frequent as Dr. Fenton imagined, as is apparent
+from the surprising diversity of physiognomy and colour of skin. The
+chiefs indeed of the tribes, who migrated from the north some four
+centuries since, may indeed have so frequently intermarried that they now
+constitute little other than a large family connection, but the populace
+have most undoubtedly made frequent alliances with the inhabitants of the
+adjoining island groups, as they are to this day accustomed to do with the
+whites, from which latter cross results the unhappy bastard race
+Paketa-Maori, which, like the quadroons of Louisiana and the mulattoes of
+Hayti, or the mestizoes of the Indian races of South America, despising
+the pure blacks and looked down upon by the whites, are the sworn foes of
+both.
+
+It seems to us too hazardous a speculation to go into minute
+investigations as to the decay of the Maori race, and the most suitable
+means of averting that disaster, at the very moment when their foreign
+conquerors, in order to strengthen their power, are actually engaged in a
+war of annihilation with the aborigines.[44] It is much more important,
+and will better repay our time, to enumerate the advantages which must
+accrue to European, especially German, immigrants into a country where the
+natives have played out their part.
+
+As already remarked, there are few countries beyond the limits of Europe
+which are so favoured as regards climate, fertility of soil, natural
+wealth, and geographical situation,[45] or hold out such excellent
+prospects of ultimate comfort and prosperity, as New Zealand. The mean
+temperature of the whole islands for the year is 56° Fahr., and is 5° less
+at the south, and in the north about 4° higher, so that, for example,
+Auckland possesses the same temperature as Florence, Rome, Marseilles, or
+Toulon.[46] Gales are frequent along the coast, and the damp south winds
+known as "bursters" are exceedingly disagreeable and oppressive, but they
+do not on the whole affect the health of the inhabitants. According to Dr.
+Thomson's observations, it would seem that of every 1000 soldiers in the
+various British military stations 8.25 die in New Zealand, 14 in Great
+Britain, 18 in Malta, 20 in Canada.[47]
+
+Of the superficial area of New Zealand, which, if we include Stewart's and
+Chatham Islands, may be estimated at 75,000,000 acres, one-third consists
+of forest and bush capable of being reclaimed for agricultural purposes,
+one-third of meadow, grass-pasture, and valley, well adapted for
+cultivation, and the remaining one-third of barren rock, or sandy desert,
+besides lakes and rivers.
+
+The amount of land, in various holdings, reclaimed and made fruitful
+throughout New Zealand for the year 1857 was 190,000 acres, of which
+121,648 were arable land, sown with esculents (chiefly wheat, oats,
+potatoes, and grass for fodder) and fruit. Of late years the annual
+increase of land reclaimed has been 40 per cent. It is calculated that
+each new arrival from Europe is equivalent to the cultivation of four
+acres of land, and the breeding of 30 cattle. The cost of clearing amounts
+in New Zealand to from £2 to £5 per acre.
+
+Hence it is that the Colonial Government are straining every nerve, by
+holding out certain material advantages and inducements, to attract
+land-purchasers and handicraftsmen to a country, which, inhabited at
+present by not more than 130,000 human beings, is quite capable of
+supporting 30,000,000. The "Auckland Waste Land Act," besides giving every
+necessary information as to the unreclaimed districts (where land is sold
+at ten shillings per acre), also contains certain arrangements, by virtue
+of which intending emigrants of the labouring classes, who shall come out
+at their own expense, receive some assistance to enable them to settle on
+certain proportions of the land which the Government presents to them by
+way of indemnification for the expenses of their voyage, in the proportion
+of 40 acres to each person above 40 years of age, and 20 acres to all
+between 5 and 17 years.[48] The sole condition attached by the Government
+to this land-indemnity is that the emigrant bind himself to remain five
+years in the province; which period once elapsed, he may dispose of the
+land at his pleasure. In order to encourage persons accustomed to tuition
+to settle in Auckland, all persons who are fitted to instruct children in
+elementary knowledge and English grammar, on their having discharged such
+duties for five years to the satisfaction of Government, are entitled to a
+grant of 80 acres of land.
+
+The most important products and articles grown for export are, all sorts
+of cereals, wool, and ship-timber. A marked increase has taken place in
+potato cultivation, of which in 1857 there were exported 4430 tons, value
+£23,328, and in 1858, 6116 tons, value £33,056. Of building timber of all
+sorts there were exported in 1857 £12,205, and in 1859 £34,376 in value.
+
+One of the most valuable trees of the New Zealand forests is the Kauri
+pine (_Dammara Australis_). This elegant tree, 80 to 120 feet in height,
+furnishes the English ship-building yards with a large number annually of
+rounded logs, 74 to 84 feet in length, of better quality as well as more
+lasting than those of the Norwegian or American pines.[49] The Kauri or
+yellow pine also produces the kind of rosin so well known as Dammara
+rosin, of which this valuable tree produces such quantities, that in those
+districts where the Kauri tree has long since yielded to the axe of
+civilization, it has been found in immense masses on the soil, in a
+high-dried state. The Kauri rosin of commerce is not therefore procured,
+as with us, by making an incision in the tree, but is actually dug out of
+the earth, into which to the despair of the farmer it has often percolated
+for several feet, rendering the soil barren. During our excursions we came
+repeatedly upon whole tracts of rosin-fields, which were covered several
+feet thick with this substance. The Dammara pine only grows on the
+northernmost island, and chiefly in the northern parts.
+
+In Auckland we saw several pieces of Kauri rosin weighing 100 lbs. In
+1857, 2521 tons, worth £35,250, of this substance were exported, chiefly
+for its valuable properties as a varnish, and for "fixing" certain colours
+used in the calico manufacture. It has also of late been extensively used
+in the manufacture of candles.
+
+The cultivation of the Harakeke, or indigenous flax (_Phormium tenax_),
+might be made to conduce greatly to the wealth of the country, if some
+mechanical process could be invented which should without too much expense
+liberate the fibres from their hard envelope, which is the only obstacle
+in the way of its competing successfully with Russian flax. Impressed with
+the importance of developing the cultivation of _Phormium tenax_, the
+Colonial Government has offered a reward of £1500 for the invention of
+such a machine as shall bark the native flax, and prepare it for and make
+it saleable in the European market. At present no more than 50 or 60 cwt.
+of the flax, worth about £800, is exported from Auckland. The New Zealand
+flax surpasses almost every known plant in the strength and toughness of
+its fibres, its ratio as compared with the fibres of European plants of
+the same species standing as high as 27:7. For Great Britain the
+cultivation of this flax is not alone of great interest in an economic
+point of view, but is even politically of importance, as the amount of
+flax annually imported from Russia for her industrial energies averages
+£3,000,000.
+
+Sheep-farming has of late years made an enormous advance in New Zealand,
+the export for 1857 being 2,648,716 lbs., value £176,581, that for 1859,
+5,096,751 lbs., value £339,779, averaging 1_s._ 4_d._ per lb. The list of
+articles suitable for export must continually increase with immigration,
+and the consequent spread of population through the interior.
+
+The entire commerce of New Zealand, both import and export, is at present
+about £2,000,000, the value of imports having risen from £597,827 in 1853
+to £1,551,030 in 1859, while the exports, which in the former year were
+only £331,282, had risen in 1859 to £551,484. The last-mentioned year
+employed 836 ships, of which 438, representing 136,580 tons and 7594 of
+crew, were engaged in the import, and 398 of 120,392 tons and 6483 of
+crew, were employed in the export trade. The net revenue of the Government
+for the same period was £459,648.
+
+The majority of the colonists are emigrants from Great Britain, only a
+small fraction coming from the continent.[50] A large Irish population
+lives in the neighbourhood of Auckland, while the Scotch cling together
+about Taranaki and the southern parts of the island. The European
+population was 52,155 in 1857, and 73,343 in 1859, the proportion of sexes
+in the latter year being 42,452 males, and 30,891 females.
+
+While most of the naturalists of the _Novara_ staff went on the invitation
+of Government to examine the coal-beds lately discovered in Drury
+district, others made frequent excursions in the environs of Auckland,
+three of which deserve special mention.
+
+The first was to the picturesque Judges and Oraki Bays, the latter formed
+by the ruins of a crater. Here for the first time we beheld what is called
+the New Zealand Christmas tree, _Metrosideros Tormentosa_, which at the
+festive season comes forth pranked in all its gay blossoms, and is
+extensively used in decorating churches and dwelling-houses. Its large
+deep-red, umbellate blossoms are visible from afar gleaming among the
+green vegetation along the coast. The natives call this tree the
+Pohútu-Káwua; it is most extensively found on the slopes along the coast.
+The wild pepper, Kawa-kawa (_Piper excelsum_), is very common in the
+country round Auckland, but is not brewed into an intoxicating drink like
+the _Piper methysticum_ of the Southern Ocean. The natives indeed are
+exceedingly temperate, and, unlike other half-civilized races, are very
+little addicted to drink; this however may be partly due to the wise
+precautions of the Government, which under a heavy pecuniary penalty
+forbids all tavern-keepers throughout the province from selling the Maori
+any drink except beer. Two species of grass eminently characteristic of
+the country, which often overrun vast tracts of land, and are used by the
+natives for thatching their huts, are the Toi-toi (_Lepidosperma elatior_)
+and the Kekaho (_Arundo Australis_). There are also the Puka-puka, or
+paper-seed (_Brachyglottis repanda_), an object which, where it is found,
+imparts a peculiar aspect to the landscape, like the silver poplars on the
+flanks of Table Mountain at the Cape. The name of the plant is derived
+from the under side of the leaves being as white as paper.
+
+We also during this excursion saw great quantities of Raorao or Aruhe
+(_Pteris esculenta_), and were told that the roots (_roi_) of this fern,
+baked and ground, were highly prized by the Maories as a specific against
+sea-sickness. No native makes a sea-voyage, at least to any distance,
+without carrying with him a piece of this root, using it when baked as an
+antidote against that most depressing of maladies, from which even
+primitive races are not exempt. The efficacy of this remedy is however
+rather reputed than actual, the experience of Europeans, who have availed
+themselves of its supposed virtues, tending to show that it is absolutely
+worthless.
+
+While at Oraki Bay we also visited the Maori village of Oraki. Here we
+found some 80 natives, men, women, and children, who had encamped on a
+hill outside the village. They were clothed partly in European style,
+partly in clothes made of native flax. The diversity of feature was most
+remarkable, as was also the great difference in the hair of the head. Some
+had thin black, others crisp, hair; many had it of a dark brown colour,
+while yet others had regular fox-coloured locks. The elder men had their
+faces and hands beautifully tattooed; the women on the lip only, and the
+younger generation were not tattooed at all. After the customary
+salutation of "Tenákoe, Tenákoe" (which in fact means literally nothing
+more than "Here you are," or "I recognize you"), they were little
+communicative, and showed little disposition to enter into closer
+conversation with the foreigners, although some of our companions spoke
+their language fluently. As our instructions were to ship on board the
+_Novara_ any handsomely tattooed natives who should of their own free will
+wish to enter our marine, we let slip no opportunity, and accordingly
+endeavoured to induce some of the natives we now saw to ship with us.
+However, they could not be persuaded to make a cruise with us to see other
+lands and nations, as they could not comprehend what motive Austrian
+voyagers could have in inviting the natives of such a distant quarter of
+the globe to join them on such favourable terms. Their chief hesitation
+arose in the idea which they, the offspring of cannibals, firmly believed,
+that we wished to take some of their companions with us instead of fresh
+provisions, with the ultimate intent, so soon as we ran out of victuals,
+to put them to death, and banquet on Maori flesh! Thereupon we showed them
+some Caffres who had been 15 months on board, and were perfectly well
+treated. "Who knows," replied one of the most cautious of the Maori, "very
+possibly the Caffres have only been spared because the necessary moment
+has not yet come!" We returned to Oraki, our efforts vain to induce any
+Maori volunteer to make a cruise.
+
+A not less interesting excursion was made to the Kauri forest in
+Titarangi, among the Manukau hills, to which we were conveyed in a couple
+of dog-carts. It was an exquisitely beautiful sunny morning. The air was
+so invigorating yet so mild that we immediately felt how well Sir Humphrey
+Davy's celebrated remark about Nice, "mere existence here is luxury," may
+also be applied to Auckland. After a drive of three hours through charming
+fields and meadows, we entered upon the forest at a spot where an Irishman
+named Smith has erected a block-house and a saw-mill, which seemed to do
+an excellent business. The whole appearance of the farm and its residents
+made a most favourable impression. Old Smith accompanied us in person to
+the forest, which consisted principally of the lofty, slender,
+broad-leaved Kauri pine. These have much more the look of chestnut trees
+than fir. The whole forest displayed a luxuriance and beauty of vegetation
+such as we had not anticipated in these latitudes. Creepers, parasites,
+and tree-ferns, gave it quite a tropical character. There were a charm and
+a voluptuousness about this green garb of nature, as displayed in New
+Zealand, such as the virgin forests of even the Nicobars or Java could
+hardly surpass in grace and majesty.
+
+The slender trunks of the Kauri pine, the Rimu (_Dacrydium_
+_Cupressinum_), and the Kali Katea (_Podocarpus excelsa_), are here
+sliced into planks and boards, and so transported to the port. 100 cubic
+feet are worth about 15_s._, and 100 cubic feet of the beautiful Rimu
+wood, which is much used for furniture, fetches about 30_s._ A saw-mill
+labourer is paid from £7 to £8 per month, besides rations.
+
+On our return, thoroughly fagged out and overheated with three hours of
+climbing and rambling, to the hospitable residence of our worthy Irish
+friend, we found an elegant carpet spread on the floor of the room, and
+everything clean and neat, to welcome the unexpected guests. His entire
+family was waiting to receive us, and after a comfortable meal we took our
+leave, doubly impressed with the glories of New Zealand forest scenery,
+and agreeably surprised to find in such close proximity with
+half-reclaimed nature such a peaceful picture of contentment, and such
+sterling results of well-directed human industry.
+
+While our eyes were still dazzled with the beauties of the New Zealand
+forests of the Manukau range, a visit to St. John's College gave us an
+excellent and cheering glimpse of the admirable zeal displayed by various
+philanthropists to impart instruction in the great truths of Christianity
+to the coloured race of this and the adjacent groups of islands, and to
+educate missionaries. St. John's College has been set on foot with this
+praiseworthy object in view by the Church of England Missionary Society.
+Of the forty lads who attended it while we were there, the majority came
+from Loyalty Islands, the Solomon Group, and New Caledonia. Many only
+remained at the institute during the warm summer months, and for health's
+sake returned before winter set in to their own milder climate. Some had
+thus returned to school for the fourth time. The management of this humane
+undertaking is entrusted to Mr. Patterson, a gentleman of remarkable
+ability and perseverance, who speaks with fluency most of the Polynesian
+languages, and annually faces much privation and danger during his visit,
+in a schooner provided by the Missionary Society, to the various islands
+of the Southern Ocean, where he communicates with the natives, urging them
+to give their children the benefits of a certain amount of education. The
+course of instruction consists of reading, writing, arithmetic, and
+religion. It is unfortunate that no provision is made for their
+instruction in mechanical employments, as such knowledge would go far to
+make their heathen kindred appreciate the advantages of Christian
+civilization. The pupils seem to be warmly attached to Mr. Patterson, and
+regard him with the child-like reverence paid to a father. The results are
+surprising, and demonstrate what splendid germs of capacity for education
+lie slumbering in even the rudest primitive people, if only care be taken
+to awake them sufficiently early, and foster them judiciously.
+
+As in all English colonies, there is much intellectual activity in
+Auckland. Several English journals,[51] some really well written and
+digested,--such, for instance, as "_The Southern Cross_," "_The New
+Zealander_," &c.,--not only discuss the most important political events,
+but also endeavour to enlarge the views of their readers upon all
+questions of political economy and commercial and industrial progress.[52]
+
+A few months before our arrival a paragraph appeared in several English
+and German journals, one of which accidentally fell into our hands at
+Shanghai, to the effect that "in April, 1858, considerable excitement had
+been created in England by intelligence of a peculiar species of silk-worm
+having been discovered growing wild in New Zealand in immense quantities."
+The London correspondent added that the worm inhabits a cocoon which is of
+a dull brown externally, under which however is a particularly fine
+quality of silk, with which some Glasgow houses had made experiments that
+induced them to value it much more highly than the qualities hitherto
+procured in Europe. Owing to the great alteration in the prospects of the
+silk trade, generally held out by the march of events in China, we deemed
+it advisable to inquire minutely as to the existence of a worm, which, as
+reported, not merely enjoyed advantages of climate similar to those of
+several parts of the Austrian domains, but seemed to require but little
+attention, living, as was said, "wild" in the "bush." After protracted
+investigation, however, it turned out that the silk procured in New
+Zealand was furnished by the ordinary mulberry-fed silk-worm, and that the
+extraordinary delicacy attained in the fabrics made from it at Glasgow was
+only due to its very superior quality.
+
+The little expedition to the coal-beds of Drury already mentioned was
+accompanied by results so valuable, that considerable excitement arose
+among the settlers of the district, and a society was formed for the
+exploration of this mineral wealth. The excursion, however, was not
+confined to visiting the coal-fields, but was intended to give the
+naturalists of the _Novara_ an opportunity of seeing part of the interior
+of New Zealand, by traversing the forest, 9 to 15 miles wide, between
+Auckland and the river Waikato, and thus visit the lovely shores of that
+river and the native villages of the neighbourhood.
+
+The expedition was under the conduct of Capt. Drummond Hay, aide-de-camp
+to the Governor, and thoroughly acquainted with the country, and Mr.
+Heaphy, chief engineer of the province; Mr. Smallfield, editor-in-chief of
+the _New Zealander_, accompanied it as historiographer, while the
+Government invitation was extended to several of the scientific
+inhabitants of Auckland, among others the Rev. Mr. Purchas, and a
+recently-arrived German named Haast. The following is an extract from a
+journal, kept by one of the party from the _Novara_, of all the most
+interesting episodes of this excursion:--
+
+"On 28th December we set out in five waggons, and advanced among extinct
+craters and volcanic cones, on which in former times _Páhs_ or intrenched
+villages had been erected by the natives, as is plain from the succession
+of terraces of three or four feet high, rising in regular order, and cut
+into the side of the hill. The villas and farms on either side of the
+road, or at the foot of the hills, buried in their splendid
+flower-gardens, formed a charming contrast with the ancient lava currents,
+stretching in every direction and over-grown with tree-ferns and dense
+coppice. Now and then horses were rolling about upon the velvet-like
+meadows, or herds of cattle and flocks of sheep were passed feeding and
+ruminating, and bearing ample testimony to the advanced stage of material
+progress so quickly attained by one of the youngest of English colonies.
+
+"Already we had found banners waving from the houses of Otahuha, a little
+village closely adjoining a very interesting extinct volcanic peak with a
+crater, and during a brief halt we made here, crowds of well-dressed
+inhabitants came flocking in to welcome the German guests of the
+Government, who were to develope the natural wealth of the country. From
+Otahuha the road lay across the plains of Papa Kura (red levels) to
+Tamaki. It is a wide paved road well ballasted, the bridges solidly built,
+everything, in short, betokening the fostering care of an enlightened
+Government, making it a point of duty to open up as speedily as possible
+convenient means of communication between the capital and the interior.
+The farms and country-houses were not so numerous in this section, though
+the rolling country seemed of excellent quality.
+
+"At last, about 1 P.M., we reached Drury, a rather large settlement 29
+miles from Auckland, where we were most cordially welcomed. Young's Hotel,
+which had been engaged for the Expedition, was gaily decorated with
+flowers, rare forest plants, and ferns, while from the gable floated side
+by side the British and Austrian standards.
+
+"Drury is situate in a fertile rolling plain, the country is everywhere
+fenced in, corn-fields and meadows give variety to the landscape, and the
+well-to-do, fresh-looking countenances of the settlers, the groups of
+rosy-cheeked children, and the herds of splendid cattle, amply attest the
+salubrity as well as fertility of the neighbourhood. The party now split
+into two. Our geologist, with several companions, went forward about a
+mile and half from Drury into the forest, there to commence his
+investigations at a spot where a coal-bed 12 feet thick had been laid
+bare. The rest of the naturalists strolled about, engaged in botanical and
+zoological researches among the soft, beautiful woodland scenery of the
+almost _soul-enchaining_ primeval forest.
+
+"A couple of days were passed in such little excursions in the environs of
+Drury, in the course of which a trip was made in a Wakka or New Zealand
+canoe to the Tahike springs, near a Maori village of the same name. Our
+craft consisted of a single hollowed-out trunk of a kahika tree
+(_Podocarpus excelsa_), about 25 feet in length by 2-1/2 in breadth. For
+such a boat a native pays about £5, and it lasts from 20 to 30 years,
+whereas a canoe of red Totara (_Podocarpus Totara_) costs when complete
+about £30, but lasts much longer. Canoes are frequently pointed out
+prepared from these giants of the forest, 70 feet in length and from five
+to six in breadth, which were used in old times as war-canoes
+(Wakka-wakka), and could accommodate 100 warriors. Ours was covered at
+either end with fresh-gathered ferns, and was provided with four paddles
+tapering to a point, one of which was used by one of the Maories who
+accompanied us, while we applied ourselves to learning the management of
+this novel mode of propulsion by seizing on the rest, and by imitating his
+motions speedily mastered its difficulties. Unfortunately, owing to the
+distance, we could not reach the village itself, and, after a variety of
+curious adventures with the natives, found ourselves compelled to return
+when about half-way, in order to husband our strength for the exertions of
+the ensuing day.
+
+"By dawn the noise in the hotel drove away all further thought of sleep,
+and presently came flocking in from every quarter the horses, both saddle
+and pack, which had been engaged for the expedition. The morning broke in
+uncommon splendour, and the whole landscape lay bathed in a rose-coloured
+flush, whose exquisite tints recalled the immortal beauties of Claude
+Lorraine. The winding road that leads over the intervening hills begins at
+this point to be impracticable for wheeled vehicles, although it is
+possible to advance a few miles farther in country cars. For upwards of an
+hour we rode along through beautiful rolling pasture land, for the most
+part neatly fenced, and covered with herds of noble cattle. Now and then
+we came upon a stately mansion, buried in flowers and foliage, whose
+appearance sufficiently attested that the proprietor had long since left
+behind the struggles of the early days, when the hardy settler inhabited a
+wretched log-hut (whari), a "clearing" cut with incredible labour amid an
+almost impenetrable forest, the soil of which he had to prepare for the
+reception of corn-seed.
+
+"At last we reached the forest, which extended from where we were to the
+banks of the Waikato. The deeper we penetrated into it, the closer and
+more majestic grew the trees, and the denser and more impervious was the
+underwood. Gigantic trees, 150 feet in length of stem, were entwined,
+trunk, limbs, and summits, with flexible lianæ and other parasitical
+creepers, while birds of the strangest descriptions were flitting hither
+and thither among the trees, alarmed by the tramp of our horses, which
+echoed strangely loud through the silent depths of the forest. The most
+frequently visible of these feathered denizens of the forest is the Tui
+(_Prostemadera novæ Zelandiæ_), called 'the parson' by Captain Cook, in
+consequence of its having two white feathers in the lower part of its neck
+resembling bands. In colour and shape it is very like the kingfisher, and
+its melodious notes present great variety. In addition to the Tui, the
+forest is frequented by the Kakariki (_Platycercus N. Z._), a small green
+parrot, which, stealing softly through the mysterious greenwood shade,
+emits its singular shrill shriek. We also fell in with a solitary specimen
+of the New Zealand cuckoo (_Endynamys Taïtensis_), called by the natives
+Koekoea, which was eagerly bagged by the zoologists.
+
+"After riding half an hour into the forest we came to Rama-Rama, a
+settlement founded about three months previously by a rich English
+colonist. About 70 acres English were already reclaimed, and in some parts
+of this patch of land, so lately arrested from the wilderness, peas,
+turnips, beans, potatoes, and other kitchen vegetables were already
+peering above the surface. Two small huts, constructed of the stem of the
+tree-fern, and thatched with reeds, had been extemporized as kitchen and
+sleeping apartment for the occupier of the soil, a highly-educated,
+well-informed, gentlemanly man, named Martin, and his labourers, while on
+an eminence at a little distance preparations were being made to erect a
+handsome dwelling-house of wood, whence this skilful shepherd-prince will
+be able to overlook his flocks and herds, and delight his eyes with the
+prospect of his rapidly multiplying horned stock.
+
+"The road now became narrower and more difficult, the horses too began to
+find their footing less secure, and it was only by great vigilance that we
+contrived to ride over the marshy soil, thickly covered with massive roots
+of forest giants. Enormous trunks of trees that had fallen across the path
+had to be scrambled over, and the baggage removed from the pack-horses and
+carried forward on men's shoulders. Some of the horses, inured to similar
+expeditions, clambered nimbly over these obstacles, while for others, more
+restive or less practised, bridges had to be constructed, which are formed
+by laying two trunks of trees parallel with each other across the chasm or
+brook, upon which fern or reeds are placed transversely, and the whole
+tied together with twigs of liana, so as to afford the animals a firm
+footing. Occasionally this frail apparatus would break through, when the
+poor horses would disappear below, whence they were only extricated with
+considerable trouble.
+
+"Towards evening the forest began to get less dense, and we entered upon
+an undulating table-land, covered with ferns. Some columns of smoke,
+curling upwards at the foot of a hill on the further side, indicated that
+we were approaching a Maori village. In front of us lay the valley
+through which flows the Mangatawhiri, which falls into the Waikato a
+little lower down. The course of the latter was traceable by a range of
+hills whose elegant outlines bounded the horizon. We experienced a most
+friendly reception from the natives of this village, and were lodged in
+the newest _whari_ or New Zealand hut. This is constructed in the shape of
+a quadrangle with elliptic sides, about 20 feet in length by 14 feet in
+breadth, and consists of stakes of palm driven in close to each other, and
+tied together. The roof, which is 15 feet high in the centre, gradually
+sloping to about 8 feet at the side walls, is of thin slips of wood, and
+is covered over by a dense layer of native flax, so ingeniously woven that
+it is impervious to water, which accordingly runs off. The roof is for the
+most part supported simply by an upright pole in the midst, but
+occasionally several of these are used, so as to impart greater strength
+to the roof. The side walls are usually covered with large mats made of
+woven rushes. In the middle of the two longer side walls are two doors
+placed exactly opposite each other, between which a species of corridor is
+made, which divides the hut into two apartments as it were. In the event
+of bad weather, a small whari close at hand serves as a kitchen, the Maori
+usually following all culinary avocations in the open air in front of his
+hut.
+
+"The village consists of some 15 huts scattered at random, among which
+some of the inhabitants of both sexes, clothed in European attire, were
+sitting or lounging upon the ground, or crouching upon their hams.
+Around, in sympathetic glee and full security, sprawled a squad of pigs
+and children, some naked, others half-clothed. Most of the adults
+stretched out their hands in the most friendly manner. Here we had again
+occasion to remark the extraordinary diversity of physical appearance in
+various individuals, no two of these Maories being like each other in
+complexion, hair, or figure. In front of one of the huts a native oven was
+standing uncovered, the mid-day meal being just over; after the earth and
+other matters had been removed there appeared, each lying on a
+cool-looking cabbage leaf, some splendid potatoes and eels from the river.
+The Hangi-Maori, or Maori oven, is nothing but a hole some three feet long
+by one and a half deep excavated in the earth. In this a strong fire is
+made of dried timber, and when fully alight stones are placed over the
+flames, and kept there till they are in a state of incandescence. As soon
+as the wood has been consumed the ashes are carefully removed, and a
+little wet flax thrown upon the hot stones, above which again is placed a
+layer of fresh cabbage leaves. These form as it were a bed for the food to
+be cooked, be it meat, vegetables, fish, or fruit. The viands are then
+covered with another course of leaves, two mats of rushes being placed on
+the top, after which the earth excavated is heaped over the pile and
+pressed firmly down, so as to prevent the escape of the steam thus
+generated. If there are no cabbage leaves handy, a substitute is made of
+the leaves of the Tuakura (_Dicksonia Squamosa_), a species of fern which
+grows in great luxuriance among the moist spots. These leaves impart to
+the meat a peculiar and agreeable flavour, whereas other plants are apt to
+alter the ordinary taste of the food.
+
+"The women and girls were busily engaged during a few minutes in weaving
+little baskets of rushes, in which the potatoes were served up garnished
+with eel. A plateful was handed to each of our party, which we were
+courteously pressed to eat. In every Maori household there is always a
+sufficient quantity cooked to admit of any casual traveller or a neighbour
+partaking with the family; for the Maori possesses in perfection the
+savage virtue of hospitality, as we frequently experienced.
+
+"The master of the hut in which we passed the night had suddenly
+disappeared, and was busily engaged, as we witnessed through the open
+door, in arranging his hair, which he combed carefully, after which he
+anointed it with eel-fat, which he also plentifully smeared over his face,
+neck, and arms. This curious toilette completed, he wrapped a clean mat
+round him, and presented himself in full fig, to bid us all due welcome.
+The mode of salutation among the New Zealanders is unique. The party
+saluting draws his head rapidly backwards, and winks a couple of times
+with half-closed eye and laughing face!
+
+"Our bivouac suddenly received an unexpected accession of new arrivals.
+From the mountain ridge which we had just passed six horsemen were seen
+descending at full gallop and making for the village; they proved to be
+young Maories, mounted on handsome horses, who, having been apprized by a
+relative, whom we had met in the forest, of the arrival of _Pakehas_
+(white men), had come hither partly out of curiosity, partly to do us
+honour and show us hospitality. They all wore European clothes, rode in
+good English saddles, and bestrode powerful horses, which they seemed to
+manage with much grace. There are numerous Maories who have from 50 to 60
+head of horses, and whole herds of cattle, besides several thousands of
+pounds lying in bank.
+
+"In the course of a stroll through the village we not only observed fields
+planted with the customary rotations of wheat, oats, maize, potatoes,
+cabbage, and so forth, but on the banks of the river came upon a new mill,
+constructed on the English system, almost ready for work, which had been
+erected by an Englishman at a cost of £500, to be repaid by the tribe. The
+erection of this grinding machinery is the more indicative of the
+speculative turn of mind of the Maori of the present day, that they use
+none of the flour for their own primitive household, but manufacture it
+solely for the purpose of selling it advantageously at Auckland market.
+
+"Towards noon we again entered our canoes on our return, and descended the
+Mangatawhiri, the navigable channel of which is so narrow that even our
+narrow craft could with difficulty make its way. Gradually the hills began
+to slope backwards, and the river to grow wider, till it expanded on
+either side into a swampy morass covered with reeds and lofty elegant
+water-plants, while at a short distance away we could descry magnificent
+trees springing from the high-lying but fertile soil. It was a most
+delightful day. Throughout our entire excursion the thermometer ranged
+from 71° 6 Fahr. to 77° Fahr., so that, our strength not exhausted by
+oppressive heat, and our attention not distracted by the hum or the sting
+of insects, we were free to indulge those mingled feelings of which the
+variety and magnificence of the landscape were so well calculated to
+elicit the manifestation. Presently the river became once more very
+narrow, the hills again closed in, covered with a thick belt of forest,
+which extended down to the water's edge, occasionally forming a canopy of
+indescribable grace above our boat, as she glided noiselessly below. At
+last the Mangatawhiri, which hitherto had pursued a westerly direction,
+made a bend to the southward, and debouched into the Waikato. The
+impression made upon each of our party by the scenery at this point was so
+overpowering, that all, as though smitten by one common impulse, broke
+into expressions of delight. Its course lying between mountains of
+magnificent outline and thickly wooded, the majestic stream presented many
+points of resemblance to the Rhine and Danube, to which it was little if
+at all inferior in point of width. A holy calm brooded over its clear
+brown ripples, only broken by the flight of birds from time to time, which
+in those undisturbed solitudes, far from the murderous weapons of man,
+passed their existence in happy security. That we might enjoy in all their
+plenitude the exquisite charm of the forest and its luxuriant vegetation,
+we coasted along now on this side, now on that, as though we could never
+weary of the mingled grandeur and beauty of this magic scene. Still
+further to enhance the magnificence of nature in her present mood, a
+tremendous thunder-storm broke over us in the course of the afternoon,
+when the forked lightning played like arrows of fire above our heads, and
+the thunder rolled in deafening peals, which were taken up again and again
+by hundreds of mountain echoes.
+
+"In the evening the sky cleared, and we reached the Maori village of
+Tuakan, where we were made welcome, and the best hut in the place assigned
+us. The evening was one of peculiar interest, it being that of Sylvester's
+day, or the eve of the New Year of 1859, which will scarcely soon again be
+spent by Austrians at the antipodes. Our entire party camped upon the
+floor of the hut, two torches, stuck into the mouth of a couple of empty
+bottles, shed an uncertain light, while an iron kettle served as
+punch-bowl, in which a "brew," something resembling "Punch," was, by dint
+of the joint experience of the English and German members of the
+excursion, compounded out of the spirits we had brought with us. Ere long
+the chorus went round, and we had German songs, alternating with English,
+Irish, and Scotch melodies, and even melancholy New Zealand love-songs,
+sung by some of the Maories present.
+
+"As the evening, and with it the dying year, wore on, some little
+difficulty, natural enough under the circumstances, arose, how to
+ascertain the precise moment of its departure, as most of those present
+had left their watches behind, as a something more than superfluous
+article in the course of a forest excursion, and the few which had been
+brought differed so much, that it was impossible to depend upon them for
+the correct moment at which the old year sank to his rest, and the new
+began his course of alternate hopes and alarms, joys and griefs.
+
+"Suddenly Captain Drummond Hay rose, and opening the door, which, as in
+most Maori huts, faced the south, exclaimed: 'Well, we have neither church
+clock nor night watch to tell us the exact moment when the year changes,
+but a bountiful Providence has suspended for us in yonder firmament
+another and an unerring sentinel of night and time:--the constellation of
+the Southern Cross! During how many sleepless nights, among the forest or
+fern-covered plains of New Zealand, have I lain gazing at that
+never-failing time-piece of the Almighty's own handiwork! See, the Cross
+begins to bend to the west! It must now be midnight. A happy new year to
+one and all!' Once more the glasses clinked against each other, and hand
+locked in hand, after which the shades of night were left to gather round
+our wearied party, who sunk into sound repose, relieved probably by many a
+cheering vision of distant friends.
+
+"The following morning, 1st January, 1859, we all rose early, refreshed
+for the day's work, and found the entire population of the village
+collected around us. There were also a couple of English carpenters who
+joined the crowd, and welcomed us to the interior. They were employed in
+constructing for the natives, at an expense of £400, a wooden chapel, as
+the Maories attach great importance to having a place of worship, where
+those resident on the spot, or any occasional European stranger, may unite
+with them in spending the sabbath in a becoming manner. The majority of
+the New Zealanders are Christians, and belong almost exclusively to the
+High Church of England. Service is performed partly by missionaries, who
+traverse the country up and down, partly by itinerant spiritual teachers,
+regularly engaged for the purpose, the latter of whom have occasionally to
+struggle against severe privations and obstacles of various kinds. Many
+natives educated by the missionaries travel through the country preaching
+and praying, and by their exemplary conduct must greatly influence their
+fellow-countrymen. In almost every hut in the village we found a Bible, or
+a hymn-book and prayer-book, in the Maori tongue.
+
+"Notwithstanding their undoubted capacity, the natives will not apply
+themselves to any handicraft pursuits, which indeed they attach so little
+value to that they regard the shoemaker and the tailor, for example, as
+inferior to them. On the other hand, the merchant or the seaman stands in
+high esteem; and the warrior holds the chief place in their estimation,
+while they themselves consider them not inferior to the Europeans, with
+respect to courage, firmness, and love of war.
+
+"About noon we set out on our return. The route chalked out for us, by
+the only road which exists between Tuakan and Drury, was constructed
+partly by the land-holders along its course, partly by the surveyors, only
+intended for cattle, and to facilitate survey. We found it in such a rude
+state that it was only with much trouble we got our horses over the trees
+which lay felled across the road, or could induce them to put a foot on
+the bridges of loose planks by which the water-courses were crossed. In
+every direction the path was over-grown with roots, between deep pools,
+into which one stepped over the knees, while the boughs of the trees
+overhead rendered any attempt at progress a matter of considerable
+difficulty.
+
+"We could now form a pretty correct estimate of 'life in the interior of
+New Zealand,' and of the obstacles the settler has to encounter in a
+climate, the vegetation of which grows in rank luxuriance almost rivalling
+that of the tropics. As, however, the Colonial Government attaches the
+utmost importance to this matter, and expends large sums in laying out
+good roads throughout the interior, many of the impediments to traffic at
+present existing will be obviated in a few years. About 9 P.M. we were
+once more in Drury, and on the following morning, 2nd January, 1859, the
+little party returned to Auckland, when the geologist of the Expedition
+made a comprehensive report to Government on the coal-fields of the Drury
+district, which had first been noticed by the Rev. Mr. Purchas of
+Onehunga, who employed his leisure in geological studies."
+
+According to the geological researches of Dr. Hochstetter, it would appear
+that the province of Auckland abounds in good coal that would repay
+working, especially a brown coal occurring in the tertiary period, which
+greatly resembles that of Bohemia and Styria. The plains of Papakura and
+Drury on the eastern shore of Manukau Harbour are part of a rolling
+country, and are but little above the level of the sea. S.E. and S. they
+are bounded by a thickly-wooded range of hills from 1000 to 1500 feet in
+height, running in a direction from S.W. to N.E., or from the Waikato to
+the Wairoa; it is only in the vicinity of Drury that a portion of this
+chain trends nearly N.E., rising with a gentle slope from the level land
+below. At various points on these acclivities strata of coal have been
+discovered partly by the action of water, partly by human labour, the
+extent of which, owing to the impenetrable forest vegetation and the
+consequent lack of natural indications, can only be ascertained by boring.
+
+The coal is of the best quality of that kind of brown coal generally
+called cannel coal, and is occasionally met with in immense seams. The
+average thickness of the seam is about six feet. The Drury and Hunua
+coal-fields seem indeed to be but a part of a far more extensive tertiary
+formation, which occurs pretty universally throughout the province of
+Auckland. The obvious practical value and commercial importance of this
+New Zealand coal can only however be definitely proved, when the various
+manufacturing processes in which it is used have been fairly set a-going.
+It might at all events be worth the experiment to erect in the vicinity of
+the coal mines some manufactories of porcelain, as the utmost variety of
+clay has been met with in the course of the different borings, all
+admirably suitable for every branch of that manufacture.
+
+In like manner the brown coal might be made available for the supply of
+gas, besides being called into requisition for fuel for numerous
+industrial pursuits. On the other hand, it is not suitable for ocean steam
+navigation, as its volume would prevent its being shipped in sufficient
+quantities, so long as black coal could be procured, even at a somewhat
+higher price.
+
+The proposals of the geologist of our Expedition as to the best mode of
+exploring the wealth of the Drury coal district, were so well received by
+the Government, and so eagerly caught up by the proprietors of the various
+plots of land--the benefits likely to result to the colony from such an
+undertaking seemed so important, that there was not merely a rush to open
+up the coal district, but a formal request was made to the Commander of
+our Expedition that he would permit Dr. Hochstetter to remain behind to
+aid the work, and prosecute further researches in this little-explored
+island. This proposition, originated by a number of respectable and
+influential persons, at last found official expression in an official
+letter despatched by the Governor of the colony to our Commodore, in which
+the farther geological exploration of the island by Dr. Hochstetter was
+asked as a particular favour.[53] As the request was a high compliment,
+and it was impossible the scientific objects of the Expedition could be
+more obviously fulfilled than by the thorough geological examination of a
+country never hitherto subjected to a similar scrutiny, Commodore Von
+Wüllerstorf consented on condition that all the collections made, and the
+observations and literary matter published, by Dr. Hochstetter during his
+residence on the island, should without exception form part of the results
+of the _Novara_ Expedition, and that all expenses incurred during his stay
+on the island, or on his passage back to Europe, should be defrayed by the
+Government of New Zealand.[54]
+
+All these proposals were at once approved, and Dr. Hochstetter was
+moreover handsomely remunerated, and every facility given him to devote
+himself to the extension of science while contributing to the welfare of
+the country at large. On the 8th January, our estimable travelling
+companion disembarked from the _Novara_, intending to remain in Auckland
+provisionally, and to make preparations for his arduous task, which was to
+be inaugurated by a geological survey of Auckland Province, after which,
+in the course of some weeks, he hoped to proceed into the interior.
+Several officials, as also a photographer, a draughtsman, and 15 Maories,
+were selected to accompany Dr. Hochstetter into the interior, each of whom
+strove to contribute to the utmost of their power to the success of an
+undertaking fraught with such important results.
+
+During our stay in Auckland we had the misfortune to lose our boatswain,
+who died suddenly of serous apoplexy, and was interred in the Catholic
+burial-ground. The deceased was so universally beloved, that a collection
+was started on board, which resulted in a sufficient sum being raised to
+admit of a suitable tombstone being erected to the memory of this worthy
+man.
+
+In no part visited by the _Novara_ was she received by the Catholic clergy
+with such lively demonstrations of delight as at Auckland. On new year's
+day a special high mass was celebrated in the Catholic cathedral in
+presence of all the seamen of the vessel, followed by a sermon from Dr.
+Pompallier, the venerable R.C. bishop of the province. The gray-headed
+prince of the Church, accompanied by his Vicar-General, and several Maori
+chiefs, afterwards came off to the frigate, when he paid a visit to the
+Commodore. As the Catholic mission at Auckland is anything but well
+endowed, our chaplain, by orders of the Commodore and in the name of
+H.I.R.M. the Emperor, presented various altar furniture and vessels for
+the celebration of mass, which were accepted with many expressions of
+gratitude and delight.
+
+For several days a continuance of heavy gales from the northward prevented
+the departure of the frigate, which gave our friends in Auckland a further
+opportunity of renewing their warm-hearted hospitality. During this delay,
+we also shipped as part of the crew two Maories, who at the last moment
+declared their wish to accompany us. The official correspondence on this
+subject between the Colonial Government and the Commodore is especially
+interesting as illustrating the watchful care taken by the New Zealand
+authorities in protecting the interests of the Maories. The most
+favourable terms were sought to be secured for them, and a special clause
+was inserted providing for their return to their native country free of
+expense, should they express a wish to that effect at the conclusion of
+our voyage. At first four Maories and a half-blood had resolved on making
+the voyage, but when the time for embarkation came, only two adhered to
+their determination, Wiremu Toe-toe Tumohe, and Te Hemara Rerehau Paraone,
+both of Ngatiapakura, and belonging to the powerful Waikato tribe.
+Toe-toe, himself a chief of two small tribes of Ngatiapakura and
+Ngatiwakohike, about 32 years old when he shipped with us, had been
+baptized at 15 by the English missionaries, by whom he had been instructed
+in reading and writing. He had also been trained to agricultural pursuits,
+and at 20 he married the _mestiza_ daughter of an Englishman and Maori
+woman, who had presented him with a son. In his 26th year he entered the
+service of the Colonial Government as post messenger, in which capacity he
+proved himself so useful that he had been for two years postmaster of his
+district, which position he still filled when the _Novara_ arrived.
+Toe-toe was the first to display his willingness to assist Government in
+constructing roads, and by his influence and example not alone induced
+several chiefs to abstain from interposing obstacles in the way of that
+much-needed improvement, but even prevailed upon several of his relatives
+to take a part in their construction. His determination to accompany the
+_Novara_ was solely the result of a long-cherished desire to see foreign
+lands and races. Hemara Rerehau Paraone was fired with a similar wish. He
+was the son of a wealthy relative of Toe-toe, and had been baptized at an
+early age. From 12 to 18 he had frequented a school founded by the English
+missionaries, where he learned to write his mother-tongue, and a little
+English, arithmetic, geography, and history, besides the accomplishments
+of sowing, corn-growing, grinding flour, and baking bread.[55]
+
+At last, on 8th January, the frigate left the harbour of Auckland. Just as
+the sails were let fall, some boats made their appearance crowded with
+friends, who presented us with a last bouquet, ere we went on our way.
+There was also a boat with several natives, and the Vicar-General, who
+wished to saddle us with some wonderfully tattooed Catholic Maories,
+anxious apparently that Protestant Maories should not alone be shipped.
+The zealous father brought with him a letter from the Catholic Bishop,
+Pompallier, and was so intent upon his mission that despite the somewhat
+rapid rate at which the frigate was now cleaving the water, and the
+difficulty which his long black cloak interposed to his movements, he
+would not let go his hold, but held on to the Jacob's ladder in order to
+get personal speech with the Commodore. It was, however, obviously
+impossible to grant his request without further delaying the departure of
+the frigate, and the poor Vicar-general, a warm-hearted Irishman, had to
+make his way down the slippery ladder again into his little boat, and
+return with his _protégés_ to Auckland, his praiseworthy object
+unaccomplished.
+
+As, favoured by fair winds, we sped gaily along to the next object of our
+travels, the Island of Tahiti, our thoughts and wishes were repeatedly
+reverting to New Zealand, where one of our number had remained behind, to
+undertake the solution of so difficult but important a problem. The
+information obtained by our colleague during his eight months' residence
+only came to hand long after the frigate had been safely laid up in
+ordinary in Trieste harbour. However, in order to show more fully the
+activity displayed in surveying this little-explored island, we avail
+ourselves of the following condensed narrative of his labours, drawn up by
+Dr. Hochstetter himself.
+
+"My first field of employment was the province of Auckland. The ample
+assistance placed at my disposal by J. Williamson, Esq., the very
+deserving superintendent of Auckland, enabled me within the short space of
+five months to travel over the greater part of this province, which
+constitutes nearly the whole of the northern island, while pursuing my
+researches for the most part upon a definite plan.
+
+"During the first two months, January and February, Auckland was my
+head-quarters, as the season was not yet suitable for pedestrian
+excursions in the interior. The heat during the summer months is so great,
+and the annoyance caused by the mosquitoes, who during those months
+frequent the forest in millions, is so intolerable, that travelling
+becomes all but impracticable. Neither of these drawbacks exists to any
+great degree in the vicinity of Auckland. The fresh sea-breezes, which
+continually blow across the isthmus, temper the summer heats, and the
+environs being cleared of forest are but little infested by those
+blood-thirsty insects.
+
+"I accordingly applied myself next to those works which during the stay of
+the _Novara_ had been set on foot by myself among the brown-coal-fields
+near the capital, and adjoining the remarkable volcanic formations of
+Auckland, with the view of getting some definite result, in order that I
+might provide for myself a detailed geological sketch of the volcanic
+district, since even the portion in close vicinity to the capital,
+notwithstanding the previous labours of my friend Mr. Heaphy, was, so far
+as regarded geological formation, as much a _terra incognita_ as the
+interior itself.
+
+"The basis of such a geological chart of the Auckland district was
+conveniently supplied by some topographical plottings on the scale of one
+inch to the mile, with which I was provided by the Surveyor-general's
+office. Unfortunately, these sketches almost entirely omitted any notice
+of the description of land surveyed, and, in fact, comprised merely the
+outline of the coast and the net-work of the rivers, so that it became
+necessary to examine for myself the physical features of the country.
+
+"On a closer examination, the variety of geological formation proved to be
+much greater than I had at all anticipated. What chiefly took up my time
+was the investigation of the remarkable extinct volcanic caves of the
+Isthmus of Auckland, which, so far as regards the great number comprised
+within a small space, and the peculiarities of their cave and crater
+configuration as modifying the lava streams, must be pronounced unique of
+their kind. Within a circuit of only ten miles from Auckland I had to mark
+down 61 different points of eruption! An excursion southwards to Manukau
+Harbour, and the mouth of the Waikato westward, led to our finding
+important petrifactions at the south source of the Waikato, and along the
+west coast to the discovery of belemnites and fossil ferns in excellent
+preservation. Thus for the first time the secondary strata of New Zealand
+were bared to view. Further excursions to the Drury and Papakina
+districts, as also to the Wairoa River, were rewarded by the confirmation
+of the extension thither of the brown coal formation, after which I
+extended my investigation northwards to the Waitakeri, and the peninsula
+of Wangaparoa.
+
+"My map, so far as completed, and sent to the Colonial Government for
+their use and to be copied, embraced by the end of February the whole of
+the environs of Auckland for a distance of 20 miles. It brought to light a
+district abounding in most important and remarkable geological features,
+besides a stratum of sedimentary deposit of all the geological periods
+(primary, secondary, tertiary, and diluvial), including numerous volcanic
+phenomena. My collections however embraced a quantity of splendid
+petrifactions, and an immense number of interesting rocks, while the
+botanical and zoological collections were greatly added to through the
+kind assistance of well-wishers of all degrees of the community.
+
+"The question now to be solved was, 'Should I make the northern or the
+southern portion of the province the scenes of further exploration?'
+Properly to examine both was impossible within the short period I could
+remain. I did not hesitate to decide in favour of the southern district,
+and that for a variety of reasons. The southern portion of the province is
+inhabited almost exclusively by natives. Only missionaries, tourists, and
+a few Government officials had hitherto traversed these interesting
+regions. The north of the island, on the other hand, is much better known.
+Numbers of European settlers inhabit the shores of the numerous bays of
+the northern Peninsula. The colonists themselves, by word of mouth, or
+written information, could furnish me with all the information I required
+respecting the natural history of those regions, not to speak of the
+specimens that were constantly being sent me.
+
+"Dieffenbach had already visited every point of importance in the north,
+which he had very fully described in all other essentials, if not
+geologically. The renowned American geologist, Dana, when attached to the
+great expedition despatched by the United States to the Southern
+Ocean,[56] landed at the Bay of Islands, the most important harbour in the
+north, and had given full geological details of that neighbourhood.
+Moreover, my friends, the Rev. A. G. Purchas and C. Heaphy, Esq., during
+my stay in the country, visited several districts in the north, whence
+they brought me collections and specimens of every kind, so that I was by
+no means unacquainted with the north. On the other hand, the broad
+interior of the southern part of the province seemed to me to be almost
+entirely unexplored. Since Dieffenbach's remarkable voyage in 1840, no
+naturalist had visited the remarkable volcanic peaks of the interior, the
+beautiful inland lakes, the boiling springs, the Solfataras and Fumaroles.
+The geological information respecting these conveyed by Dieffenbach's
+narrative of travel, seemed to me very meagre, while topographically the
+interior was a blank. Accordingly, a visit to it seemed to promise the
+most important results.
+
+"Towards the end of February all necessary preparations had been made;
+Capt. Drummond Hay, well known as one of the best Maori scholars, was
+commissioned by Government to lay out my route and act as interpreter. The
+Government, however, forestalled my utmost wish by furnishing me with a
+photographist, as well as an assistant to aid me in meteorological
+observations, and generally to make himself useful in collecting and
+sketching. The latter was a young German, M. Koch, who proved himself a
+most invaluable ally, while M. Hamel took charge of the photography. There
+were also an attendant, a cook, and fifteen natives, to transport baggage.
+
+"I was likewise accompanied by my friend Mr. Haast, who had but recently
+come to New Zealand, sent out by some mercantile firm in London to explore
+the country for colonizing purposes. On the 6th March I set out with my
+numerous company, intending to proceed first from Auckland to Mangatawhiri
+on the Waikato, the chief river of New Zealand that flows from the
+interior. Crossing the Waikato in a native canoe, and afterwards its
+tributary the Waipa, I directed my steps westward from the Mission Station
+on the last-named river in the direction of Whaingarva, Aotea, and Kawhia,
+on the west coast. From Kawhia I struck landwards towards the upper course
+of the Waipa, as far as the Mokan district. Thence, after crossing
+frequent mountain-chains thickly wooded, I reached the source of the
+Wanganui in the Tuhua district, and on 14th April arrived at the majestic
+Lake Taupo, surrounded on every side by the most magnificent volcanic
+caves. Here I was at the very heart of the country, at the foot of the
+still smoking volcano of Tongariro, and its extinct neighbour Ruapahu,
+9200 feet high, and covered with perpetual snow. At the southern
+extremity of the lake is a mission-house, where I received a most
+hospitable welcome, while my Maories received at the hands of Te Heukeu,
+the great Maori chief, a most cordial reception, in conformity with the
+excellent customs of the country. After I had laid out the chart of the
+lake, and examined the springs along its banks, I followed up the Waikato
+by its outlet from the lake, till I reached the very singular chain of
+boiling springs, Solfatare, salt-springs and Fumaroles, which extend in a
+N.E. direction between the active crater of Tongariro and the still active
+volcano of Whakari or White Island on the east coast. On a longer stay,
+the country adjoining the sea along the prolongation of this line
+furnishes the site at Lakes Rotorua, Rotoiti, and Rotomahana (or Hot
+lake), for the _Ngawhas_ and Puias, i. e. boiling springs and geysers with
+siliceous sintu-deposits, as in Iceland, which there display their
+greatest activity. I look upon this locality as presenting the most
+remarkable and extensive chain of hot-springs in the world, Iceland itself
+not excepted.
+
+"By the first week in May we gained the east coast at Maketu, whence we
+kept along the coast as far as Tauranga harbour, and thence once more
+turned our faces towards the interior at the Wai Ho valley, or valley of
+the New Zealand Thames, and thus once more reached the Waikato at
+Maungatautari. I now wandered through the fertile plains of the central
+Waikato basin, to Rangiawhia, the central point of the Maori settlements,
+paid a visit to the Maori king, Potatáu te Wherowhero, at his residence,
+Ngaruawahia, at the confluence of the Waikato and Waipah, and so by the
+end of May reached Auckland from the Waikato, by way of Mangatawhiri.
+
+"The results of this expedition, of almost three months' duration, were
+most satisfactory to myself. The weather had been singularly favourable,
+so that I found no insurmountable obstacles, although our route led
+through districts difficult of approach, owing to the frequent recurrence
+of flood, swamp, and almost impervious primeval forest. As my travels were
+undertaken about the period of the New Zealand harvest-time, both of the
+potato and corn crops, there was no lack of provisions. At the various
+missionary stations scattered throughout this region we received the most
+heartfelt hospitality, and even the native chiefs did not fail to receive
+into their tents, and welcome in right hearty fashion, the Te Ratu
+Hokiteta, as I was named in the Maori tongue, with all his numerous train.
+My Maories had proved themselves so willing and obliging, as well as
+cheerful, over the work, and my friends Haast, Hay, Hamel, and Koch, had
+so zealously co-operated with me, that the results achieved were quite
+beyond my most sanguine expectations. I now had complete geographical,
+geological, botanical, and zoological materials in my hands, nor was there
+any lack even of ethnographical specimens.
+
+"My chief object had been to obtain a correct notion of the geography and
+geology of the country. In order to be in a position to make geological
+deductions, I had at the same time to get up the topography, for all that
+was set down in the maps of the interior had not been taken from regular
+hydrographic data, but were mere jottings, which had been laid down from
+the hasty and necessarily imperfect sketches which travelling
+missionaries, public officers, and other casual travellers had brought
+with them. The imperfect charts which the Colonial Government had supplied
+me with, to guide me in pushing to the eastward, only gave the inhabited
+points along the coast, and even a few miles distant from Auckland were so
+much waste paper. To remedy this I had recourse, from the very
+commencement, to a system of triangulation, by means of an Azimuth
+compass, based upon the nautical survey of the coast made by Capt. Drury,
+which I prosecuted, with the invaluable assistance of Capt. Drummond Hay,
+from the west coast to the east. The natives, who, in their profound
+distrust of the government land speculations, always threw every possible
+obstacle in the way of the land-surveyors and provincial engineers, so
+soon as they made their appearance, theodolite in hand, on any land not
+yet purchased, never once disturbed us. They knew I was a stranger, who
+was only going to stay a few months in the country, and accordingly made
+it a point of honour that I should carry home with me as high an opinion
+as possible of the country. At every remarkable point the chiefs stationed
+guides, and accompanied me to the summits of the mountains, whence I made
+my observations, and with great readiness furnished me with the name of
+every hill and stream visible, as well as the valleys and lakes within
+sight, and explained in their own way the geography of the district. On my
+side I collected carefully all the information I could glean respecting
+the natives, and in this fashion I believe I have rescued from oblivion a
+number of beautiful and highly-characteristic names. The configuration of
+the soil I always sketched off on the spot, and thus brought away from my
+tour materials sufficient to enable me to prepare during my stay in
+Auckland a topographical chart of the southern part of the island on a
+large scale, reserving for more mature consideration, at a future day, the
+preparation of a carefully revised edition of this provisional map.
+
+"The barometrical observations made during this tour were reduced by
+comparison with those of the Royal Engineer's Observatory at Auckland, the
+tables used in which were obligingly put at my disposal by Colonel Mould,
+R.E.
+
+"There are also to be noticed an immense number of drawings and
+photographs, taken during the Expedition, as also some very valuable
+landscape sketches, made for me by Mr. Heaphy.
+
+"There still remained, however, a most interesting object for examination
+in the vicinity of Auckland, namely, the Cape Colville peninsula on the
+eastern shores of Hauraki Bay. The discovery of gold in Coromandel Harbour
+on this coast, had some years before created great excitement. I devoted a
+few days of fine weather in the month of June to visiting these
+gold-fields; a projected visit to the copper-mines of Great Barrier
+Island, and the Island of Kawau, had unfortunately to be abandoned, owing
+to bad weather.
+
+"With this, the period of my stay at Auckland was drawing to a close. At
+the request of the members of the Mechanics' Institute, I delivered on the
+24th June, shortly before my departure, a lecture in the hall of the
+society, upon the geological capabilities of the province, in which I
+threw together the chief results of my investigations, and illustrated
+them by means of roughly-executed charts, plans, sketches, and
+photographs. As I had neither time nor complete material for a more
+extended report, it was on this lecture that Government relied for an
+account of my various operations. The arrangement and careful packing of
+the collections, and the drawing the maps, delayed my departure for some
+weeks, and after my days of labour followed others, still more impossible
+to forget, of agreeable society and festive meetings, ere I could tear
+myself away from the inhabitants of Auckland. Thousands of mementos of New
+Zealand were thrust into my hands. My collections comprised treasures of
+all sorts, such as must for ever engrave on my memory the forests and
+mountains of New Zealand. But I had yet again to thank the good people of
+Auckland for a last souvenir of their kindly feeling and generosity to
+myself. On the 24th July I was invited to a banquet in the name of the
+province, at which I was presented, in terms far too flattering, with an
+address,[57] accompanied by an elegant and valuable testimonial.
+
+"Unfortunately, owing to want of time, I could not respond to the cordial
+invitation extended to me to make a lengthened stay, accompanied by
+further surveys of Wellington and New Plymouth (Province of Taranaki), and
+Ahuhiri (Province of Hawke's Bay). So, too, I was compelled gratefully to
+decline a kind invitation from the Governor to accompany him on an
+expedition to the Southern Island, on board H.M.'s frigate _Iris_,
+preferring to accept a previous invitation from the Superintendent of the
+Province of Nelson, as a visit to Middle Island seemed of special
+importance, however short my stay. It not alone satisfied me of the
+justice of the name assigned to Nelson, of being the 'Garden of New
+Zealand,' but also kept me fully occupied in examining its variety of
+mineral treasures, such as copper, gold, coal, &c., which have made the
+province the chief mineral and metalliferous district of New Zealand. And
+how was it possible for me to come back to Europe without having seen the
+splendid chain of the Southern Alps, and their summits crowned with
+perpetual snow?
+
+"Accordingly, on 28th July, I embarked on board the steamer _Lord Ashley_,
+bound for Cook's Straits. The voyage gave me the opportunity, as the
+vessel called at Nelson and Wellington both (anchoring at the latter),
+before entering Blind Bay, of paying a flying visit to both those
+localities. Thus, on 30th of July I had a splendid view of the lofty
+Taranaki mountain (Mount Egmont), 8270 feet high, and was enabled to
+study, among the sugar-loaf rocks of the Taranaki coast, the peculiarities
+of the trachytic lava of this the most regular in shape of the volcanic
+peaks of New Zealand. After a stormy passage through Cook's Straits, we
+landed on 1st August at Wellington, and reached Nelson on the 3rd.
+
+"I was received in the most cordial manner by the denizens of Nelson, who,
+while the _Novara_ lay at anchor at Auckland, had extended to the members
+of the Expedition a most cordial invitation.
+
+"The provincial Government, under the advice of the excellent
+superintendent, J. P. Robinson, Esq., had already issued the requisite
+instructions to enable me to make the utmost possible use of the time at
+my disposal for geological survey, and had chartered for me the steamer
+_Tasmanian Maid_, so as to enable me to visit with all possible dispatch
+the most important formations on the shores of Blind and Golden Bays.
+
+"The geological field which is opened up on the Middle Island, was
+entirely new as compared with the Northern Island. In the neighbourhood of
+Nelson, the Southern Alps send off outliers, in the shape of
+mountain-chains, 5000 and 6000 feet high, covered in winter with deep
+snow, as far as Cook's Straits. The western chains are composed of primary
+crystalline rocks, granite, gneiss, micaceous and hornblend slate,
+quartz, and clay slate, whereas sedimentary sandstone, chalk, and almost
+vertical stratifications, constitute the chief formations observable in
+the eastern chain. Between these older formations, however, among the
+valleys and depressions, occur later stratifications, including brown coal
+or peat.
+
+"A succession of splendid weather was gladly hailed as an evidence of the
+renowned climate of Nelson, and my very first excursions opened to me such
+interesting subjects of inquiry, that I was fain to decide on prolonging
+till September the month's visit I had originally determined on
+restricting myself to. I was thus enabled to examine more minutely the
+various gold and coal-fields near Nelson, as also the copper-mines on the
+Dun Mountains, and at all events to represent on a chart the geological
+features of the northern part of the province.
+
+"The results of the investigations into the mineral wealth of this
+province were on the whole eminently favourable. I could not indeed
+confirm the sanguine anticipations of some mining speculators, of the
+inexhaustible, though as yet unrevealed, treasures of copper in the Dun
+Mountains, although, adjoining the rather meagre copper-bearing strata,
+there were instances of abundance of chromate of iron, which promised a
+considerable return. Above all, however, there still remained to be
+visited the gold-fields of the Aorere and Tetakaka valleys at Golden Bay,
+the quantity already extracted from which, as well as its purity,
+satisfied me that capital might secure a splendid return here by a more
+extended and systematic mode of working, and that the discovery of this,
+the first of the New Zealand gold-fields, is but the commencement of a
+series of such along the range of hills which traverses the Middle Island;
+discoveries which, though perhaps not on so extensive a scale as those of
+Australia and California, must nevertheless tend to raise higher and
+higher the rank of New Zealand among the gold-producing countries of the
+earth. Lastly, it was found that in the province of Nelson, side by side
+with the ordinary strata in which the brown coal occurs in North Island,
+were beds of coal of a very superior quality. The excellent but
+unfortunately very limited coal-fields of Pakawau give ground for
+anticipating that in other localities it may very probably be possible to
+discover larger and more easily-worked beds, and my friend Haast has, in
+fact, since my visit discovered such on Buller-and-Grey river, on the
+Western shore of the province of Nelson.
+
+"During my stay in Nelson my collections waxed in amount to an unusual
+degree. In vain had I attempted while in North Island to discover remains
+of the gigantic extinct bird of New Zealand, or the bones of the
+_Dinornis_ and _Palapteryx_, Moa of the natives. These researches met with
+far greater success in Middle Island. The chalk valleys of the Aorere
+valley furnished us with splendid specimens of these singular and rare
+remains of birds. Not merely were individual bones daily discovered,
+through the indefatigable exertions of my friend Haast, but from time to
+time entire skeletons more or less perfect. Besides these, I was
+presented with a very valuable complete skeleton of the _Palapteryx
+ingens_ (Owen), from the Nelson Museum, so that the collection of
+remains[58] of the Moa, which I brought back with me to Vienna, is
+scarcely, if at all, inferior to the valuable series of relics of an
+extinct race of birds which at present adorns the British Museum.
+
+"I must express my thankful sense of the kindness with which my friends
+Dr. Monro, Capt. Rough Travers, Messrs. Adams, Curtis, and many others,
+contributed minerals, plants, and zoological specimens to the enrichment
+of my collections of natural history. I am also deeply indebted to Messrs.
+Campbell and Burnett for several exquisite landscape sketches, and the
+Provincial Government for a variety of interesting photographic pictures
+of the environs of Nelson.
+
+"It was with regret I tore myself from a region where so much remained to
+discover, and so much hitherto unexamined to explore. In the higher and
+more remote regions of the Southern Alps, never yet trodden by human foot,
+there was nothing left for me to do. From the shores of the Rotoito lake
+(Lake Arthur) I could see the southernmost point reached by me, where the
+lofty pinnacles of the southern range, crowned with perpetual snow, rose
+grandly before me. I could but picture to myself the majesty and sublimity
+of those hills, which my friend and travelling companion, J. Haast,
+succeeded in ascending in 1860-61, after indescribable difficulties and
+hardships, which redounded to the credit of German 'pluck' and
+perseverance, as the results did honour to German science.
+
+"My time had now been stretched to its utmost limit, and I had to prepare
+for my return to Europe. In a lecture upon the geology of the province,
+which I delivered at Nelson on 29th September, I presented in a succinct
+form the results of my observations. An extract from this lecture,
+accompanied by a copy of my geological map, I presented to the Provincial
+Government of Nelson and the Colonial Government of Auckland.
+
+"I cannot conclude without recording the numerous instances of
+consideration and unexpected kindness which I received at the hands of the
+inhabitants of Nelson, and especially for their flattering and gratifying
+appreciation of my labours, which at the close of the lecture already
+mentioned took the form of an address,[59] accompanied by an elegant and
+appropriate souvenir, consisting of a beautifully-finished cabinet,
+composed of the various coloured woods of New Zealand.
+
+"On 2nd October, 1859, I embarked for Sydney, on board the steamer _Prince
+Alfred_. After a short sojourn in the capital of New South Wales, I went
+on to Melbourne, whence I visited the most important of the gold-fields of
+the colony of Victoria, and by the middle of November returned _viâ_
+Mauritius and the Red Sea to Europe."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Such is the account given by our geologist of his proceedings while the
+_Novara_ was steering homewards. The voyage to the Society Islands
+Archipelago promised at first to be very speedy, but ere long was
+seriously delayed by strong contrary winds, and while, on the one hand, we
+could make but short tacks, we had on the other not merely to forego the
+pleasure of clear sunny weather, but had the miserable prospect of nothing
+but squalls and rain. Our additions to our natural history collections
+were likewise very scanty, and even our most important capture, a shark 10
+feet 4 inches in length, and weighing 174 lbs., was much more of a treat
+to the sailors than an acquisition to science.
+
+The only circumstance throughout the voyage which made a certain
+impression was the passage of the meridian of 180°, about 11 P.M., on the
+10th of January, so that we had now entered upon W. longitude again.
+Accordingly, there was no small astonishment among the sailors, when a day
+seemed suddenly to be dropped out of our reckoning, and orders were issued
+that Monday, 10th January, should be entered twice in all journals and
+reckonings, that is, should be entered for that and the following day
+also, so as to prevent our returning to Europe with the log one day ahead
+of the calendar. Of course a little explanation soon satisfied all
+landsmen of the necessity of the alteration, but their amazement reminds
+me of the dismay of earlier Catholic navigators, when they found they had
+been keeping irregular fast days. Thus, when the first circumnavigation of
+the globe was made by Magelhaen, who sailed in the _San Lucas de
+Barrameda_ on 20th September, 1519, he found on his return, after a three
+years' cruise, to Santiago, one of the Cape De Verd Islands, that the
+Portuguese there were keeping Thursday, the 10th July, 1522, whereas his
+log marked Wednesday, the 9th, he having doubled the Horn and sailed from
+east to west. The idea of having lost a day of their lives disquieted the
+worthy and pious mariners far less than the fact that they had observed
+Lady-day erroneously, and had eaten meat on fast days! On their return to
+Spain they could not get credit for the lost day, which was set down to an
+error in reckoning, the meaning being that they had omitted the
+intercalary day in February, 1520. Peter Martyr spoke concerning this to
+the renowned Venetian ambassador, Contarini, who at once pointed out that
+a day must necessarily be lost in the course steered by the _Victoria_,
+while, on the other hand, a day would have been gained by sailing from W.
+to E. One consequence of this proof of the sphericity of the earth was,
+that it at once became obviously necessary to draw a line of demarcation
+between the Spanish and Portuguese settlements. Thus, too, Captain Steen
+Bille relates, that when he sailed from Tahiti he logged his departure as
+on Friday, 18th December, whereas on the adjacent island of Borra-Borra
+they were already reckoning it the 19th. The mode of reckoning at Tahiti
+corresponded with his own, but only, it would seem, in consequence of an
+alteration which had been made a few weeks previously. In short, the mode
+of reckoning time among the South Sea Archipelagoes depends solely upon
+whether they have been approached in the first instance from the west or
+the east by the navigator who has introduced among them the Christian
+Calendar. However, so long as the discrepancy is not too great, a
+conventional mode of computation is employed, and one general epoch is
+used for all groups of islands in or near the meridian of 180°. In any
+case, it is a matter of indifference to the brown natives of these island
+groups whether or not they correspond with Greenwich at a given hour of a
+given day.
+
+On 4th February the look-out man at the mast-head sung out "Land on the
+lee-bow!" This proved to be the small island of Tubuai, of the Rorutu
+Archipelago, the inhabitants of which at present seem to be likewise under
+the "careful" protection of France.
+
+At length, on 11th February, we came in sight of Tahiti and the outlying
+Island of Eimeo or Morea, after which we tacked towards the latter, which
+we approached so closely that we could quite plainly distinguish its
+singular serrated outline, its precipitous crags, and its crater-like
+depressions, as well as the thick, gloomy forests that clothe its secluded
+valleys. Many of these pinnacles and steep rocky declivities presented all
+the appearance of a series of colossal ruins of cities and palaces,
+protected by towers, battlements, and embrasures. About 4 P.M. we hove to
+off Papeete. The entrance into this harbour, surrounded by coral reefs
+which indeed form the haven, is exceedingly narrow, the fair way for the
+frigate not exceeding half a cable's length. As no pilot boat was visible,
+a blank shot was fired, and a certain signal hoisted, upon which a small
+boat pulled off with the long-looked for pilot. At 6 P.M. we cast anchor
+in 11 fathoms water, in clay ground. In the harbour were three whalers, a
+French transport, and the dispatch steamer _Milan_, which had left Sydney
+twelve days before us, had remained three days at New Caledonia, whence it
+had been 54 days on the voyage to Papeete, only making use of its steam in
+the most urgent cases. We ran up the flag of the French Protectorate at
+the main-mast-head, and saluted the city with the customary 21 guns, which
+were replied to by a field battery, which had to be brought down to the
+beach for the purpose. Much astonishment was expressed that we should have
+ventured to run the frigate through the narrow channel between Eimeo and
+Tahiti, which has a very bad repute, and is very rarely attempted by
+vessels of large size, but, as we ourselves experienced, is perfectly
+practicable with a favourable wind, and greatly shortens the approach to
+the harbour.
+
+With the consent of the Governor, who received us with much cordiality (no
+intelligence having as yet reached these waters of the diplomatic
+misunderstandings which at our antipodes were forming the prologue as it
+were of the war that broke out somewhat later), we were permitted to use
+the islet of Motu-Uta, lying in the harbour, for the purpose of carrying
+on, free from interruption, our astronomical, meteorological, and magnetic
+observations. A simple wooden hut which we found upon the island served
+for an observatory, while quantities of slender-stemmed cocoa-palms,
+waving their rustling green canopies overhead, invited us to welcome
+repose after the exhaustion of the day's labour. To this smiling islet,
+which rose in the midst of the bay like a basket of flowers, King Pomáre
+II. once retired, there to translate the Holy Scriptures into Tahitian.
+Here, too--probably in the very hut which now served us as an
+observatory--it was that the same sovereign, when old, spent whole days,
+and occasionally, according to tradition, indulged so freely in cognac
+that he was frequently heard, when in that state, to say to himself,
+"Pomáre, Pomáre! thy _puan_ (pig) were now better fitted to reign than
+thou!"
+
+
+                              FOOTNOTES:
+
+[29] We are indebted to C. W. Stafford, Esq., Under Secretary of State to
+the Colonial Government, for copies of the latest statistical documents,
+from which we learn _inter alia_ that at the end of 1859 the population
+amounted to 129,392, the aborigines numbering 56,049, and the foreigners
+73,343.
+
+[30] According to the tradition handed down from the chief
+Te-he[)u]-he[)u], their forefathers emigrated first from
+Hawaiki-Tawiti-Nui, to Hawaiki-Patata, where they sojourned some
+time, and thence went to Hawaiki-Ki-te-Maite[)u], whence they came
+to New Zealand.
+
+[31] According to Dr. Thomson ("The story of New Zealand past and present,
+savage and civilized." London. John Murray, 1859), who lived eleven years
+at Auckland prosecuting his duties as a surgeon in the army, the Maori
+came to New Zealand, passing by Rarotonga, from Sawaii, the largest of the
+Navigators' Islands, about the year 1419. This opinion, which is not
+devoid of probability, is not however incompatible with the Sandwich
+Islands being the original cradle of the New Zealanders, and Sawaii only a
+sort of intermediate station. (See United States Exploring Expedition
+1838-42. Ethnography or Philology, vol. vii., by Horatio Hale,
+Philadelphia. Lea and Blanchard, 1846.--The Traditionary Migrations of the
+New Zealanders and the Maori Legends (_Die Wundersagen der Neu-Seeländer
+und der Maori Mythos_), by C. Schirren. Riga. N. Kymmel, 1856.)
+
+[32] The sick were formerly made to drink the fluid contained in the
+shells of fresh and salt-water _Conchyliæ_.
+
+[33] Of these the most important are:--"Polynesian Mythology, and ancient
+traditional History of the New Zealand Race, as furnished by their Priests
+and Chiefs. London, 1855." "Proverbial and Popular Sayings of the
+Ancestors of the New Zealand Race. Capetown, 1857."
+
+[34] New Zealand: being a Narrative of Travels and Adventures during a
+Residence in that Country, between the years 1831 and 1837. By J. S.
+Polack, Esq., member of the Colonial Society of London. In two volumes.
+London, Rich. Bentley, 1838.--Travels in New Zealand, with contributions
+to the Geography, Geology, and Natural History of that Country. By Ernest
+Dieffenbach, M.D., late Naturalist to the New Zealand Company. 2 vols.
+London, J. Murray, 1843.--The Southern Districts of New Zealand; a Journal
+with passing Notices of the Customs of the Aborigines.--By Edward
+Shortland, M.A., London, Longman and Co. 1851.--A Dictionary of the New
+Zealand Language and a concise Grammar; to which is added a Collection of
+Colloquial Sentences. By W. Williams, D.C.L., Archdeacon of Waiapú.
+London, 1852.--The Ika-a-Mauí, or New Zealand and its Inhabitants. By R.
+Taylor. London, 1855.--A Leaf from the Natural History of New Zealand. By
+R. Taylor. Wellington, New Zealand, 1848.--New Zealand, the "Britain of
+the South." By Charles Hursthouse. London, E. Stanford, 1861. Of purely
+scientific works relating to botany, Dr. Hooker's "Flora of New Zealand"
+may be mentioned as the most comprehensive.
+
+[35] Rona is a Maori maiden of whom a legend relates that the moon,
+irritated at her petulant disposition, carried her off to the upper
+regions.
+
+[36] The dead is here spoken of as the evening star, which is supposed to
+rise in another world, where on its arrival it is welcomed with great
+rejoicings by the thousands that have preceded it.
+
+[37] Main is the same as the Kumera, or sweet potato.
+
+[38] Tikoro is the name of a race or tribe of the Hokianga district.
+
+[39] A Maori, who maintained his neutrality, though he evidently views the
+victories of his countrymen with partial eyes, wrote us only a few months
+ago, "that in the combats which marked the first outbreak of hostilities,
+the English lost 2000 and the Maories only 1000!"
+
+[40] Maori Mementos, being a series of Addresses presented by the Native
+People to H.E. Sir George Grey, Governor and High Commissioner of the Cape
+of Good Hope, and late Governor of New Zealand, with introductory remarks
+and explanatory notes; to which is added a small Collection of Laments,
+&c., by Charles Olivier B. Davis, translator and interpreter to the
+General Government. Auckland, 1855. Also, "The New Zealand chief Kawiti,
+and other New Zealand warriors." Auckland, 1855.
+
+[41] Potatáu (i. e. shriek by night) was so far back as 1833, during the
+bloody contests of the Waikatos against the Taranaki, a renowned warrior
+and cannibal, who at that period, according to undoubted authority, had
+with his own hand slain 200 of the foe, and had returned home from the
+battle-field satiated with human flesh, and rich in slaves. In the evening
+of his days he was an advocate of peace, and a friend of the whites. When
+he died, in 1860, his son, second of the name, was declared his successor.
+
+[42] Observations on the State of the Aboriginal Inhabitants of New
+Zealand. By F. D. Fenton, the compiler of the statistical tables of the
+native population. Auckland, 1859. "The object of the publication by the
+Government of this paper is to draw attention to the state of the native
+population, especially to the decrease in numbers--_with a view to invite
+inquiry as to the cause, and suggestions of a remedy_."
+
+[43] Of the enormous waste of human life caused by these wars some idea
+may be formed from the fact that at the storming and capture of the single
+_páh_ of Matakitaki on the river Waipa 2000 warriors were killed; a larger
+amount of killed than that of the English army at Waterloo!
+
+[44] Of the bitter feelings excited by the Maori revolt among the
+inhabitants of Australia, an idea may be formed from the fact that Dr.
+Mackay, a well-known personage in political circles at Melbourne,
+seriously proposed to the Government of Victoria to send a volunteer
+expeditionary force to the seat of war, to assist in suppressing the
+rebels. The expenses, which Dr. Mackay estimated at £15,000 to £20,000,
+were to be repaid by sales of land in the conquered portion. Nay, this
+learned expounder of the "law" went so far as to pronounce the subjugation
+of these "savages" as imperatively necessary. The men were to be shipped
+off to Melbourne, to work as "SLAVES" for seven years; the females to be
+carried away and disposed of as wives for the Chinese and well-conducted
+white convicts! Dr. Cairns, Bishop of Melbourne, and other ministers of
+the gospel, adds this humane philanthropist, to be at liberty to use "_all
+fair means_" (!!!) for their conversion.--Compare _Sydney Morning Herald_,
+Saturday, July 21st, 1860.
+
+[45] The most important American, Indian, and Australian markets may be
+reached by screw steamer from Auckland as follows:--
+
+                     Miles     Days
+  New Caledonia      1250       5
+  Tahiti             2380       9
+  Sandwich Islands   4060      14
+  Valparaiso         5420      20
+  San Francisco      5950      22
+  Batavia            4750      17
+  Manila             4650      17
+  Singapore          5050      18
+  Calcutta           6820      26
+  Sydney             1260       5
+  Melbourne          1420       6
+  Adelaide           1780       7
+  Hobart Town        1250       5
+  Panama             5320      20
+
+If the contemplated route _viâ_ Panama be made available (with a coaling
+station at Gambier Islands), some 3500 miles or 14 days' sail would be
+saved, so that New Zealand would be reached in from 41 to 48 days, and
+Sydney and Melbourne in about 53 and 54 days respectively.
+
+[46] According to Dr. Thomson's meteorological observations, the following
+are the averages for the town of Auckland (36° 50' S.), temperature
+59-1/2° Fahr.; rain-fall 45-1/2 inches; days on which rain falls 160;
+barometer 29.95 inches.
+
+[47] Not less interesting are the returns as to the number of soldiers
+attacked with consumption and who died of it at the various garrisons,
+which are as follows: Of 1000 soldiers there were
+
+                        Attacked  Died
+  In New Zealand           60     2.7
+  At Cape of Good Hope     98     3
+  In Australia            133     5.8
+  At Malta                120     6
+  In Canada               148     6.7
+  In Great Britain        148     8
+
+[48] These grants, however, are only made to the person who actually
+defrays the expenses of the passage: thus they are not made to children,
+but to their parents; not to the servant, but to the master, who has paid
+the passage of the former.
+
+[49] Besides the Kauri pine, there is abundance of Rimu or red pine, the
+Kahi-Katea or white pine, the Tanakaha or pitch pine, the Matan or black
+pine, as also the Puriri or New Zealand oak, all trees of great utility.
+
+[50] At the period of the _Novara's_ visit to Auckland the proportion of
+the various nationalities and religions were as follows:
+
+               Nations.
+  Irish                        11,881
+  Scotch                       11,881
+  English                      35,644
+  Germans and other nations       594
+                               ------
+                               60,000
+
+              Religions.
+  Catholics                     7,500
+  Presbyterians                 7,500
+  Wesleyans and Dissenters     15,000
+  Episcopalians                30,000
+                               ------
+                               60,000
+
+[51] The Government also publishes at its own expense a Maori paper
+weekly, Te Karere Maori, the Maori Messenger, the subscription to which
+is 5_s._ 6_d._ per annum, and is intended to keep the coloured
+population informed of the most important political and social events,
+as also to tend to their civilization. We subjoin the contents of a
+single number now lying before us. "The laws of England.--Remarks upon
+ship-owners.--Official notices.--Letter from the chiefs of Chatham
+Island.--Farming, commercial, and maritime news.--Price current.--Speech
+of some brown chiefs at a meeting at Mongonui.--Letter from Bay of
+Islands.--Deaths.--The Auckland infirmary.--Government orders, &c."
+Colonel Brown deserves special praise and acknowledgment for the
+publication of the laws of England in Maori, accompanied with the
+original text, although the fruits of this arduous but important labour
+may only gradually become apparent.
+
+[52] It is especially worthy of remark, that wherever the Anglo-Saxon race
+colonize, the newspaper and the post-office follow the footsteps of the
+first settlers. After these come the church and the school-house.
+Newspaper perusal and dispatch of letters are among the first necessities
+of life to the Englishman. In the whole of New Zealand there were, in
+1858, 64,357 copies of the various journals struck off, and 482,856
+letters received and dispatched. The province of Auckland alone figures
+for 239,367 papers and 133,121 letters.
+
+[53] See Appendix III.
+
+[54] See Appendix IV.
+
+[55] These two Maories, who at first were very much depressed, soon got
+reconciled to their new sphere, and by their excellent conduct and
+obliging disposition, presently became great favourites among the crew.
+Only during our rough passage round the Horn, the tremendous storms and
+the unaccustomed severity of the cold caused them great uneasiness; they
+thought, as they themselves said, that "they must have died then;" and
+great were their longings for their native country. When at last they
+arrived safely and in excellent health at Trieste, they travelled to
+Vienna in company with one of the members of the Expedition, where,
+through the kindness of Privy Councillor von Auer, they entered into the
+Imperial-Royal Printing House, and were also instructed in the most
+important and interesting particulars of European civilization. Mr.
+Zimmerl, a member of that Institution, who had made the Maori idiom a
+special study, taught them English and German, as well as the manipulation
+of types and lithography, besides copper-plate engraving and drawing from
+nature. So intelligent and anxious for improvement did they prove
+themselves to be, that the Imperial Government were requested by the
+Directors of the State Printing Office to present the two Maories on their
+return to their native country with the necessary implements to enable
+them to avail themselves at home of the knowledge they acquired under such
+creditable circumstances. During their nine months' stay in Vienna, they
+were made acquainted with all the "lions" of the metropolis, and all the
+manners and customs of European civilized life. Of all the numerous sights
+that must have astonished their unaccustomed senses, there was none that
+seemed to have made a more powerful impression than the Railway, "the most
+splendid evidence of the powers of the foreigners, compared with which all
+others are unimportant, and which they earnestly trust will soon be
+introduced into New Zealand." The culmination of their visit to Vienna
+consisted in a visit they paid to their Majesties in the Imperial Palace,
+by whom they were received with the most gracious consideration, and
+orders issued that they should receive a handsome present, and have their
+return to their native country defrayed at the Government cost. On 26th
+May, 1860, the two New Zealanders quitted Vienna, and travelled through
+Germany to London, where they stayed several weeks, were presented to the
+Queen, and embarked at Southampton for Auckland direct. They arrived in
+safety at home, and have since then repeatedly written to their friends
+and associates in Vienna. The style of these epistles is in the highly
+figurative style peculiar to New Zealand. They abound in repetitions, and
+are not very inventive in rounding their sentences or giving their
+impressions, though they occasionally surprise the reader by the
+tenderness and poetic fervour of their thoughts. Thus, for example,
+Toe-toe writes once from Vienna to one of the Expedition resident at
+Trieste: "Thou art at Trieste, on the sea-shore! We climbed the Leopold
+Berg,--thence to descry the clouds which floated over Styria. Trieste we
+could not see, for our eyes were veiled by the tears which flowed from
+them!" The news we have received of Toe-toe since have been rather
+distressing. He issues from the press, presented to him at Vienna,
+stirring publications, comparing the Maories to Pharaoh (?) and exciting
+them to declare their independence!
+
+[56] Commanded by Captain Wilkes, recently so notorious by his conduct
+with reference to the English mail steamer _Trent_, in Nov. 1861.
+
+[57] See Appendix V.
+
+[58] Of this wonderful bird a cast was moulded in gypsum, and has been
+sent to the great International Exhibition, 1862.
+
+[59] See Appendix.
+
+
+               [Illustration: Native Fête to the Governor]
+
+
+
+
+                                   XX.
+
+                                 Tahiti.
+
+            Duration of Stay From 11th To 28th January, 1859.
+
+    State of the island at the close of last century.--The London
+    Missionary Society and its emissaries.--Great mortality among
+    the native population.--First arrival of Catholic Priests in
+    Oceania.--French Protectorate and its consequences.--The
+    Tahitian Parliament and Tahitian debaters.--William Howe.--Adam
+    Kulczycki.--Scientific aims and achievements.--The Catholic
+    mission.--_Pré Catalan_ and native dances.--Prisoners of war
+    from New Caledonia.--Point Venus.--Guava-fields.--The fort of
+    Fautáua.--Lake Waiiria.--Popular _Fête_ at Faáa.--Ball given by
+    the Governor.--Queen Pomáre.--Geographical notes on Tahiti and
+    Eimeo.--Climate.--Vegetation.--The Kawa root, and the
+    intoxicating drink produced from it.--Great expense of the
+    French Stations in Oceania.--Projects of reform.--Results of
+    English and French colonization.--Two convicts.--Departure.--The
+    Whaler _Emily Morgan_.--Attempt to fix the zero point of
+    magnetic declination.--"Colique végétale."--A victim.--Pitcairn
+    Island.--A fire-side tale of the tropical world.--An accident
+    without ill results.--Humboldt's Current.--Arrival at
+    Valparaiso.
+
+
+Of all the innumerable islands of the vast Pacific, there is none which at
+various periods has attracted the attention and aroused the interest of
+the civilized world in the same degree as that in whose harbour we were
+now lying at anchor. At first it was the inimitable grace of Cook's
+narrative of his stay in Otaheite,[60] and the simplicity and felicity of
+its inhabitants, that left a deep and permanent impression on the mind of
+the educated reader; in after-times occurrences of a political nature
+riveted the sympathy of Europe upon this distant island and its queen.
+
+Before entering upon a description of the present condition of Tahiti we
+may be permitted to cast a hasty retrospect as to the state of the group
+when the first English missionaries arrived on the Society Islands.
+
+It was in March, 1797, about 18 months after the foundation of the
+Missionary Society in London, that eighteen ministers of the everlasting
+gospel landed in Tahiti, with their wives and children, from the renowned
+ship _Duff_. This small community dispersed itself among the various
+islands, and had to make head against obstacles of unwonted magnitude
+during a series of years. At length, about 1803, shortly after the death
+of King Pomáre I., who had raised himself from the position of a mere
+chief to the sovereignty of the island,[61] Christianity began to take
+root and spread abroad through the country. In 1812 Pomáre II., the eldest
+son and successor of Otu, declared himself of the Christian faith. Five
+years later a further accession of missionaries arrived in a merchantman
+from New South Wales, who, among other things, brought with them a small
+printing press. Then for the first time the natives of the Society Islands
+learned to comprehend the blessedness of the greatest discovery of all
+time. On 30th June, 1817, after much preliminary instruction by the
+missionaries, the first proof of a catechism was struck off by King Pomáre
+II. In the course of the same year there were issued from the missionary
+press at Papeete 2300 copies of a little alphabet book.
+
+It was the same ship that brought the first horse to the island, a present
+from the owner of the vessel to King Pomáre. The natives could not conceal
+their amazement when they saw the captain astride of the splendid animal.
+Very striking was the remark made by King Pomáre on the occasion: "King
+George of England," said he, "rides on a horse; but King Pomáre, a yet
+mightier king, sits at public solemnities upon the neck of one of his
+subjects!"
+
+The labours of the missionaries were crowned with the most splendid
+success. To them is due the merit of having abolished the hideous custom
+of human sacrifice, of having introduced law and order into the native
+administration, and of having extirpated various odious vices from their
+social habits. By their representatives, King Pomáre II. was induced to
+prohibit all distilleries and places where the kawa-drink was fabricated.
+Schools and chapels were erected, Bibles and spelling-books were printed
+and disseminated, till within ten years not alone did all the natives
+profess Christianity, but the majority of the younger population had
+learned to read and write.
+
+The cheering spiritual influence exercised by these Protestant
+missionaries over the aborigines was not unfortunately accompanied by a
+simultaneous elevation of their physical condition. In consequence of
+early debauchery and the spread of diseases of a certain class, which
+appear to be the inevitable concomitants of the first contact of the white
+man with primitive races, there has been a marked falling off among the
+population. It almost seems as though the Tahitians had attained the
+utmost pitch of their civilization, and thence, in obedience to a
+mysterious natural law, have been compelled, like so many other coloured
+races, to surrender this lovely abode to a more energetic and
+self-developing race, till the appalling doom befalls them of being erased
+from the list of nations!
+
+Thirty-nine years had elapsed since the first missionary had set foot in
+Tahiti, and Christianity had spread far and wide, before the first
+Catholic priest appeared in Oceania.
+
+Etienne Rochouse, a young priest of the so-called association of Picpus,
+founded at Paris in 1814, had been named "Vicar Apostolic of Eastern
+Oceania," with title of Bishop of Nelopolis _in partibus_, and about the
+close of 1833 embarked at Bordeaux with four missionaries[62] bound for
+Valparaiso, where the holy brethren arrived on 13th May, 1834. Their
+design was, wherever practicable, to forestal the Protestant missionaries
+in their zeal for conversion among the tribes of the South Sea Islands,
+whence they might diffuse themselves over the neighbouring countries, and
+thus gradually introduce themselves among the remotest populations, in the
+hope "that all, whom heresy has led astray and brought under its iron
+yoke, may be freely brought under the mild and gentle yoke of Catholic
+doctrine."[63]
+
+In 1836, the catechist Columban Murphy was dispatched to the Sandwich
+Islands, with instructions to stop at Tahiti on his way, and to make on
+the spot all possible inquiries as to the probable prospects of
+establishing a Catholic mission there. This was the first representative
+of the Romish Church that had visited Tahiti during the thirty-nine years
+this island was evangelized; and, carried away by the blind religious
+fanaticism which in former centuries led the Spanish monks so lamentably
+astray, Murphy believed that "hell itself must have been moved and puzzled
+by such an event!"[64] Murphy, or Columban, as he now called himself,
+travelled as a working carpenter, wore a thick beard, smoked a "cutty"
+pipe, and might have been taken for anything else under the sun than a
+Catholic priest. Although serious misgivings were felt by the native
+authorities as to his real quality, he nevertheless received permission to
+settle upon the island. He accordingly spent a couple of months here, and
+laboured with great zeal to pave the way for a Catholic settlement at a
+future period. In November of the same year, two more missionaries,
+Fathers Caret and Laval, came on to Tahiti. The circumstances under which
+they arrived aroused the suspicions of the authorities and of the entire
+population. For they did not land at Wilks's Harbour, at that time the
+only accessible harbour on the island, but secretly, on the opposite side.
+According to the law of the country, however, no captain or owner of a
+ship was permitted to land a passenger without having previously obtained
+the permission of the Queen or Governor of the island. After the two
+Catholic priests had gone the round of the island and had visited nearly
+all the native villages along the coast, they at last came to Wilks's
+Harbour, now Papeete, where they received a most cordial welcome from a
+Belgian settler, the then American consul, Mr. Moehrenhout.
+
+In the course of an interview which Laval and Caret had with the Queen,
+they remarked that they had only come to teach the word of God, and
+presented the youthful and at that period pretty-looking Queen Pomáre with
+a silk shawl. The Queen did not however seem disposed to accede to their
+wishes, but ordered the laws of the country to be read before them. The
+priests however declined listening to them, and took their departure.
+
+A notification was hereupon conveyed to the two strangers that the Queen
+could not permit them to stay any longer upon the island, and a similar
+intimation was made to Mr. Moehrenhout. As the schooner which had brought
+Laval and Caret was preparing to set sail again, the opportunity was
+seized to dismiss them by the same conveyance which had landed them. They,
+meanwhile, had blockaded themselves in a house, to which they refused all
+admission. The schooner thereupon was detained for twenty-four hours, and
+the Queen's officers surrounded the house, awaiting the moment when the
+two missionaries were to leave the place. They never made their appearance
+however. Ultimately the officers of the law were compelled to tear off the
+roof from the house, while others, forcibly seizing the priests, conveyed
+them with their paraphernalia on board the schooner, which at once made
+sail, and carried them back to Gambier Island, whence they had last come.
+Notwithstanding the ill-success of this first venture, Pater Caret made
+his appearance off Tahiti a second time seven weeks later, on board of an
+American brig, accompanied on this occasion by another priest, Father
+Maigrat. The captain of the brig, a man named Williams, wrote the Queen a
+letter requesting permission to land his two passengers. The answer was a
+firm refusal, and so continued, despite the repeated representations of
+the captain, as also of the above-mentioned M. Moerenhout. Upon this the
+captain went to work in true Yankee fashion with the view of landing the
+two Catholic missionaries by force on the island, but had to give way
+before the prudent but decided attitude of resistance adopted by the
+natives, who crowded down to the water's edge and prevented the boats from
+landing. This last attempt to carry matters with a high hand having
+failed, the captain set sail and carried off with him the two
+missionaries.
+
+France, though no longer openly claiming the specific character of a
+Catholic monarchy as in the days of Louis XIV., but, on the contrary,
+proclaiming herself, by her laws at least, a free state for all forms of
+religious worship, apparently thought herself compelled to interfere in
+this quarrel, with all the weight of a great European power, two of whose
+subjects had been treated with unmerited indignity. Accordingly in
+September, 1838, the French frigate _Venus_, commanded by Commodore Du
+Petit-Thouars, appeared off Tahiti to demand satisfaction for the
+ill-treatment of the French missionaries Laval and Caret, which they
+assessed at 2000 Spanish piastres. At the same time a treaty was
+concluded between the French Government and Queen Pomáre, by which from
+that time all subjects of the King of France were to be at liberty to
+visit and reside in the Society Islands without molestation, and were to
+enjoy similar privileges with the English.[65]
+
+To this treaty the French captain, La Place, who, in April, 1839, anchored
+in Papeete harbour for repairs to his frigate, the _Artémise_, added
+another article, which was countersigned by the Queen and the principal
+chiefs, and authorized the free celebration of the rites of the Catholic
+religion.[66]
+
+Had these demonstrations on the part of France had for the sole object the
+protection of the interests of Catholicism and French subjects, no
+civilized power could have objected to an act which, in entire consonance
+with the more humane and enlightened spirit of the 19th century, asserted
+the equal rights of every form of religious worship.
+
+But she was not content with removing obstacles or asserting rights;
+political aims, as it proved, were being advanced under cover of a
+struggle on behalf of the Catholic Church; and the events which speedily
+ensued are but a series of acts of violence and humiliations inflicted, so
+entirely unjustifiable, that even the French Government found itself in
+the end compelled to disapprove and condemn the acts of its
+representatives in Oceania.
+
+In September, 1842, M. Du Petit-Thouars came on a second visit to Tahiti.
+He had by this time been promoted to his flag, and had been appointed
+Captain-general of the French stations in the Southern Ocean. He had
+already taken possession of the Marquesas Islands in the name of France,
+and appeared to have come to Tahiti with similar intentions. This second
+visit terminated after the Queen and her subjects had been submitted to
+the most cruel humiliations, in the establishment of a French
+protectorate, which several chiefs demanded in a document addressed by
+them to Louis Philippe, and which the Queen was compelled to subscribe. In
+November, 1843, Du Petit-Thouars came once more to Papeete, and now took
+possession of the entire island, on the flimsy pretext that an intentional
+insult had been given to France, in the shape of a flag which he saw
+waving above the Queen's residence, and which he mistook for that of
+England! The Tahitian flag was forcibly struck by the French soldiers, and
+replaced by that of France, while Tahiti itself was declared a French
+colony. Queen Pomáre protested against this new high-handed insult; she
+wrote a letter of complaint to the French monarch, relating the
+extravagances of his officers, and in a dignified and simple address,
+implored the sympathy and support of Queen Victoria.[67]
+
+The violent proceedings of the admiral were not endorsed by the Government
+of Louis Philippe, which recalled Du Petit-Thouars, and restored to Queen
+Pomáre the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, but the French protectorate
+remained unaltered, since which the two islands have remained, if not _de
+jure_, at all events _de facto_, a French colony. The administration is
+vested in the hands of a proportionately increased staff of French
+officials, and import and export duties are levied by the French
+authorities, while the Queen herself receives her civil list of £1000 at
+the hands of the "Trésorier et payeur des Etablissements français en
+Océanie."[68]
+
+Papeete or Papéïti (_Pape_, water, _Iti_, little), which derives its name
+from a rivulet which falls into the sea here, lies at the bottom of a
+semi-circular bay, seven miles west of Point Venus, the northernmost spot
+of the island. It is the chief town on the island, the residence of the
+Queen, and the seat of government, all which is not incompatible with its
+being of very limited dimensions, not rising above the grandeur of an
+ordinary village. The dwellings of the Europeans, constructed for the most
+part of wood, covered with palm-leaves, partly extend along the shore,
+partly help to make pretty regular streets, amid which rise up on every
+side bread-fruit trees, cocoa-palms, and orange-trees, which make up in
+cheerfulness for any deficiency in stateliness of aspect. Southwards of
+the bay lie a belt of police barracks, the Protestant place of worship
+(_Fare-pure_, house of prayer), and the prison (_Fare-auri_, house of
+iron); eastward it is bounded by the promontory of Fare-Ute, forming a
+sort of dock-yard, where ships of 300 tons can be repaired. Not far from
+the place of disembarkation, and near the centre of the township, rises
+one of the most elegant buildings in Papeete, namely, that where the
+various stores for the troops are housed. The mansion of the Governor
+closely adjoins the residence assigned to the Queen, from which it is only
+separated by a garden hedge. Both are extremely simple and unpretending
+edifices, built of wood, and impress the visitor much less than another
+large quadrangular building, built of stone in the Oriental style, and
+surmounted by a cupola--this is the Fare-Aporaa, or "House of Big Words,"
+which has numerous congeners among more civilized communities. Here, for
+the future, are to be held the sessions of the Legislative Assembly, and
+here the laws of the country are to be debated. Ever since the protecting
+hand of the French Protector has extended itself likewise over the
+unfortunate inhabitants of the Society Islands, the Tahitian parliament is
+opened with all that pomp and tinsel splendour which your true Frenchman
+cannot dispense with, even among the primitive islands of the Pacific. The
+Queen, accompanied by the Governor, proceeds, escorted by a long retinue,
+to the Chamber, and opens the assembly in person, which solemnity is
+announced to the gaping crowd outside by a salvo of twenty-one guns. The
+French Governor, however, plays the most conspicuous part, as in him is
+vested the right of deciding whether the convocation of the chosen of the
+people be requisite or not. Hence it happens that many a year passes when
+it does not suit the wishes of the Governor that parliament should meet.
+On such occasions (such was the case while we were there) the Governor
+promulgates a simple edict to that effect.[69]
+
+The Tahitians, long before the arrival of the French, had a code or
+charter of their own. The last was drawn up in 1823 by the Protestant
+missionaries, upon the model of that of England, and was revised in 1826.
+Its provisions were that the throne should be inherited by either male or
+female descendants of the reigning dynasty. By it the island was divided
+into seven districts; the legislative power was vested in an assembly of
+fourteen members, viz. two from each district, who were to be re-elected
+every three years by the people. This constitution underwent divers
+mutilations at the hands of the French Protectorate, till it had lost all
+importance. At present, however, it is the subject of lively debate, and
+the Tahitian parliament at Papeete can reckon some really distinguished
+speakers; but its solution depends much less upon the conviction of logic
+than the influence of the French officials.
+
+We heard a very remarkable speech from Ravaai, one of the most gifted of
+the native orators, on the occasion of a debate as to whether a law should
+be passed admitting beer and French wines, duty free, into the island.
+Several speakers were of opinion, considering the terrible spread among
+both sexes of drunkenness, with all its attendant evils, that every
+description of spirituous liquor should be prohibited to be sold to the
+natives; Ravaai, on the other hand, spoke in favour of the enactment, and
+in the course of his speech remarked: "If the use of spirituous liquors
+were in itself criminal, as some persons maintain, we should not see it in
+every-day use by the Europeans living amongst us, our pioneers in the path
+of civilization. It is only excess, abuse, that are punishable. This we
+must expect to have to punish, but do not rob us of an inherent right by a
+sumptuary and unnatural prohibition. Your declarations concerning murder,
+incendiarism, ruffianism, all which you adduce as the results of the use
+of brandy, are but oratorical flourishes: spirituous liquors, the misuse
+of which I equally with yourselves deprecate, have, no doubt, produced
+disorders, but these have been suppressed, and if our island had no
+further ills to encounter we might rejoice this day over a future of such
+prosperity and promise! Such, unfortunately, is _not_ the case! People
+tell us of murders and robberies! Go the round of the island! go from
+Mahaéna to Punaruu, from Papenoo to Taapua, and a variety of other
+places--climb the mountain to the very summit of Fautáua; ask at these
+abodes of sorrow, baptized with noble blood, and covered with honoured
+graves! Say what has filled the graves of Mahaéna with human bones? Is it
+the unlimited use of spirits, or is it not rather the ignorance begotten
+of fanaticism run mad, which disloyally put weapons into your hands? But
+the graves are dumb; and certain persons present may at this moment
+rejoice at that repose. If it is your wish sincerely, and with hope of
+definite results, to forbid the sale of intoxicating stimulants in Tahiti,
+begin by forbidding those mighty nations who trade with our island, and
+are interested in this traffic, from bringing and introducing the
+destroying liquids in their vessels!! But your voices, ye unhappy
+Tahitians, are too feeble to make themselves heard in England, in France,
+in Spain, in America! Well, then, renounce it, deny yourselves!" The law
+was passed by ninety-five votes against thirteen, and, in consequence, not
+merely French wines, but all sorts of liquors, may be sold in Tahiti
+unchecked by license. The penalties for drunkenness have since then formed
+an important source of revenue!
+
+Among the foreigners settled in Papeete our Expedition had reason to be
+especially thankful to Mr. W. Howe, member of the London Missionary
+Society, and M. Adam Kulczycki,[70] director of the administration of
+native matters, two gentlemen, of whom the former has, during a residence
+of twenty-two years in Tahiti, employed in spreading the gospel and
+raising the morals and religious standard of his little flock, proved
+himself as useful a servant, as the latter by his valuable contributions
+to our knowledge of the physical condition of the island. Dr. Nadaud,
+botanist and physician, also laid the Expedition under deep obligations
+by the cordiality with which he placed himself at the disposal of the
+naturalists, to accompany them on their various excursions, and imparting
+to them his own valuable experience, while the splendid and comprehensive
+work of Dr. G. Cuzent[71] upon Tahiti, contributed greatly to assist our
+personal impressions, experiences, and observations. Mr. Howe, the sole
+English missionary now resident in Tahiti, received us with much kindness,
+and escorted us through the various missionary buildings, in which,
+unfortunately, the spiritual energy of bygone years has dwindled away
+under the baleful French Protectorate. The institute for the education of
+teachers and pastors is quite closed,--in the printing establishment,
+which formerly kept ten compositors and two iron hand-presses in constant
+employment, only small religious tracts are now permitted to be sold, and
+these exclusively in Tahitian, a work which one man can easily get
+through. In the missionary library we saw several interesting works and
+manuscripts, mostly of a religious cast. One was shown us which seemed to
+be highly esteemed, and consisted of a thick manuscript treating of
+Tahiti, the author of which was a Mr. Orsmond, the oldest Protestant
+missionary upon the island, who died in 1857. It is said that M.
+Moerenhout, the former Belgian and American consul at Papeete, in his work
+upon Tahiti, availed himself largely of this manuscript, which has also
+been translated into Swedish.
+
+Mr. Howe spoke highly of the liberality of the present Governor, M.
+Saisset, as compared with the intolerance displayed by his predecessors,
+with respect to celebrating Protestant worship. Then, he told us, he was
+not permitted to preach elsewhere than in his chapel, and then only in
+English, whereas now he can perform religious service in other districts
+whenever the natives request him to do so. Moreover, in the dissemination
+of religious tracts and books of prayer, there is much more relaxation
+than formerly, and during the last tour of inspection of the Governor,
+that gentleman himself took with him 500 copies of a translation of the
+Bible, for distribution among the Protestant natives of the districts he
+was about to visit. The want of elementary religious books in the interior
+was so great, that even Catholic teachers had to sue for some, preferring
+Protestant Bibles to having none at all.
+
+Although Mr. Howe is the only one of the fourteen missionaries once
+resident here to whom permission was accorded to remain behind on the
+island, there are nevertheless a great number of native teachers who
+preach and celebrate worship on the Sunday. The _Canakas_,[72] as it is
+the custom to call the natives, on such occasions bring with them to the
+chapel their Bibles and little hymn-books in a small case made of plaited
+palm fibre, a modern department of Tahitian industry, and, in the interior
+more especially, observe the Sabbath with much strictness.[73] It may be
+reckoned that by far the larger number of the inhabitants of Tahiti and
+Eimeo, or Morea, profess Protestantism, whereas the number of native
+Catholics does not exceed 100 in both islands. Notwithstanding the
+numerous advantages which the Catholic Church has enjoyed since the
+establishment of the French Protectorate, it has not succeeded in
+acquiring any great influence among the natives, or in enlarging its
+boundaries. The Bishop, Monseigneur Tépaud Jansen, Bishop of Axieri, who
+resides at Papeete, is also the sole priest and teacher in the colony.
+This spiritual guide has every day to celebrate mass in his wretched
+little chapel of bamboo walls and palm thatch, and has never yet succeeded
+in getting the half-ruined church close by finished for his reception; the
+8000 francs per annum (£320) paid by Government as long as the church is
+being built seem rather to postpone than hasten its erection. Moreover,
+there is not as yet any public school in Papeete, a want which is the more
+sensibly felt and the more permanent in its effects, as the majority of
+the Protestant schools are closed, and consequently a large proportion of
+the rising generation[74] are growing up in utter ignorance. In four
+districts in the interior out of thirty-three, live two or three French
+missionaries who instruct the natives in French. There is neither lack of
+energy among these zealous labourers, nor of the requisite funds,[75] to
+extend the field of their labours, so that if the Catholic mission in
+Tahiti makes no progress, and after twenty years' exertion can only reckon
+100 neophytes, the explanation must be sought in the existence of
+conditions, which neither the self-denying zeal of Catholic missionaries
+nor material protection can affect.[76]
+
+While in the interior of the island Sunday is thus observed with much
+strictness, there is great indifference, if not worse, in its observance
+in the seaport; indeed, it is the French official who sets the example of
+disregarding it. For nowhere does one witness more utter shamelessness
+than at what is known as the Pré Catalan, a lawn-like meadow, which
+extends directly in front of the Governor's palace, and, in fact, is one
+of its dependencies. Here, in presence of the French gens d'armes and
+soldiers, under the very eyes of the Protectorate authorities, and in
+entire defiance of the native laws,[77] dances of the most dissolute kind
+are executed by half-drunk Tahitian girls. One must have seen the Upa-Upa
+danced by these lascivious Tahitians, with all the impassioned vehemence
+of a sensual nature, in order to comprehend the mingled shame and
+indignation with which it fills any but a French by-stander. Singularly
+enough, the Upa-Upa, or Hiva, has a marked resemblance to the well-known
+Can-can, as it is, or used formerly to be, danced in the Quartier Latin at
+the Chaumière, by the students and grisettes, with the sole difference
+that in the Upa-Upa the grace of the Parisian dances is entirely lost
+sight of, so that there remains nothing but a series of obscene gestures,
+most unblushingly presented. The musicians sitting on the ground strike
+with the flat of the hand a little kettle-drum (_pehu_), and beat time as
+well with their feet. Suddenly, a dancer of either sex springs into the
+inclosure, goes through a number of extraordinary animated movements,
+which are the louder laughed at and applauded in proportion to their
+indecency, after which he or she mingles once more with the crowd,
+exhausted and breathless.
+
+The Tahiti women have almost invariably beautiful black hair, and
+singularly small hands and feet. Their figure is on the average that of
+the middle stature of European women. Their dress is simple, but very
+clean and neat. They wear a long white gown with plaits, which gives them
+somewhat the appearance of vestals, and wear a coronal of flowers on their
+head, or entwine the flaming blossoms of the _Hibiscus rosasinensis_ in
+their thick black tresses. The more coquettish also affect an exceedingly
+elegant head-dress (_rewarewa_), which they make of the young tender
+leaves of the cocoa-palm, the satin-paper-like epidermis being converted
+by the manipulation of their skilful hands into an exquisitely fine-wove,
+rustling tissue, which they arrange among their luxuriant locks with
+genuine idealistic grace.
+
+The men, like the women, are tall, slim, and well-proportioned. The face
+usually is far from ugly, and betokens no little intelligence; the lips
+are full, the complexion a yellowish-brown, but on the whole fairer than
+that of the New Zealanders. The occipital region of the head seems to be
+artificially flattened, the forehead well-formed, the chin and lower
+maxillary bones are broad. Some wear European clothing, others a wide
+piece of blue calico (_paréu_), wound round the loins and reaching to the
+knees.
+
+The dancing in the Pré Catalan continued from afternoon till far on in the
+night, although only a faint gleam of light shone on the green floor, so
+that the darkness threw a convenient veil over both dancers and
+spectators. Quite close to the crowd of pleasure-seeking natives was a
+group of natives of New Caledonia. These had been made prisoners of war
+during the recent campaign of the French on that island, and had been
+transported hither to undergo a term of _travaux forcés_ on the public
+works. On the whole, however, they were kindly enough treated, and on
+Sundays were permitted to "dance," such as the performance was, in the
+presence of their custodian. On our presenting them with a few small
+silver coins they went through their most renowned national dances for us,
+which are much ruder and more natural than those of the Tahitians, but
+apparently are not of so frivolous a character as the Upa-Upa, and other
+similar cancanized contortions of the limbs as indulged at Tahiti. The New
+Caledonians arranged themselves with spears and sticks in a circle, rushed
+violently at each other, leaped impetuously about in a state of artificial
+excitement, uttering the most singular sounds and the most appalling
+yells, then dispersed and reunited repeatedly, the leader of the dance all
+the while muttering very fast, but in perfect time, some unintelligible
+words, apparently to fire their ardour by recalling to them the memory of
+some national victory. The obscene Tahitian dances on the Sundays in
+Government gardens had been resuscitated five months before, and for this
+reason Pré Catalan, the only public promenade in Tahiti, is avoided by the
+Europeans resident in Papeete. The Protestants feel themselves sorely
+aggrieved by having such a spectacle openly sanctioned on the Lord's Day
+by the French authorities, and a collection having been set on foot about
+the time of our visit for raising sufficient to maintain a permanent band
+of music, a number of Protestants and missionaries declined to subscribe,
+on the ground of disapproving of money being expended in promoting such
+amusements.
+
+Among the excursions made by the members of the Expedition, a double
+interest attached to that made to Point Venus. It was on this promontory
+that Captain Cook first made the astronomical observations by which he
+determined the position of the island. The ride thither lay through
+delicious groves of cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees, mingled here and
+there with citron and orange-trees, as also bananas and guavas. Near the
+Point lies the village of Matavai, inhabited by several white settlers,
+each in his little cottage with its blooming garden around it. The
+tree-like _Oleander_ and the beautiful red flower _Hibiscus rosasinensis_
+towered above in full bloom, the entire scene being almost sufficient to
+captivate a European. The native governor of the district is a pretty
+well-educated man, who has spent nine months in Paris, and on the occasion
+of the capture by the French of the fort of Fautáua had been rewarded for
+his not very patriotic services by the cross of the Legion of Honour,
+besides being appointed chief of the militia. His farm is very nicely
+managed, and his daughters, elegant, well-mannered brunettes, speak a
+little French, an accomplishment in which the Tahitian ladies,
+notwithstanding their intimate relations with the sons of "_la grande
+nation_," are usually entirely deficient. At Point Venus is a lighthouse,
+with an intermittent light, visible about 14 miles seaward, in charge of
+an aged French veteran (_invalide_). The tamarind tree is still pointed
+out, which Captain Cook planted close to the spot where he completed those
+renowned labours, which still single him out as the greatest of Pacific
+discoverers.
+
+With the exception of those to Point Venus on one side, and to the large
+villages of Faáa and Papeuriri in the opposite direction, there are no
+practicable roads on the island. On the whole, there are about 36 miles of
+road suitable for wheeled carriages,--all travels beyond must be performed
+on horseback, by which means the entire island can be traversed in a few
+days. One of the most agreeable excursions, and which well repays the
+trouble, is undoubtedly a drive to the beautifully situate hill-fort of
+Fautáua, renowned in the annals of the island. The first part of the road
+leads over unsightly fields of guava (_Psidium guava_), first imported
+from South America in 1815 by an American missionary, with the laudable
+object of increasing the number of useful plants upon the island, but
+which has since so entirely over-grown large tracts of land, that its
+systematic extirpation begins to be discussed. Wherever the guava takes
+root it destroys all other vegetation. It has already extended over the
+loveliest spots, where its seeds have been dropped in human or animal
+excrement. Its apple-shaped fruit, red-fleshed inside, is in the raw state
+anything but pleasant to the taste, and is not readily eaten even by the
+natives, but a sort of jelly prepared of it could be made an important
+article of export, as it is already along the west coast of South America.
+The fruit is also valuable for provender, as animals foddered with it
+speedily get quite fat, while its wood, growing with great rapidity, is in
+much request for fuel.
+
+After riding a few miles through these guava-fields, we were astonished at
+finding a sugar plantation close by the road, which here ran through a
+lovely little valley. This is the property of an Englishman named Johnson,
+who, once a whaler, and afterwards a sandal-wood trader, has resided for
+more than thirty years in Tahiti, and has married a native woman. Johnson,
+in partnership with a Frenchman named Le Rouge, had planted 23 acres of
+land with sugar-cane, and when we saw him in February, 1859, expected a
+crop of from 100 to 110 hogsheads of sugar. The whole property is a
+perfect model farm, and receives every encouragement and assistance from
+Government, with the view of extending sugar-planting.[78] Immediately
+adjoining the plantation, the river Fautáua flows past, here about five
+feet deep, and furnishing a most excellent bathing-place. Johnson, like
+many another, lamented the appalling rapidity with which the native
+population was falling off, which he ascribed to the daily increasing
+prevalence of the vices of drunkenness and debauchery. He related to us
+how many valleys, now lonely and abandoned, were pretty densely peopled
+only twenty years ago! Then the population was estimated at 15,000, now it
+is only 5000.[79]
+
+The aspect of the sugar plantation is remarkably fine, and an occasional
+glimpse of the surrounding hills, bathed in the sunlight, imparts a
+sublimity that at once arrests the attention, the crags rising in close
+proximity, and appearing much more precipitous and inaccessible than they
+are in reality. The Diadem (the name given to several peaks which have a
+striking resemblance to a crown) displays itself from this point in all
+its wondrous loveliness, above which tower lofty mountain-peaks, 6000 or
+7000 feet in height, which have never been trodden by the foot of the
+naturalist.
+
+Close behind the hospitable dwelling of Mr. Johnson begins the primitive
+forest, under the delightful cool shades of which one can ride almost to
+the goal of the excursion, surrounded on every side by luxuriant green
+canopies that seem to scale the very clouds, under whose domes play
+grateful currents of air.[80]
+
+The path, although always a steep ascent, was in very fair condition; only
+at the point where it was necessary to ford the river Fautáua, which every
+year swells into an angry torrent during the rainy season, did we find any
+serious impediment to our further advance. The bridge across the stream
+had been swept away, and there was nothing for it but to lead the horses
+through the water, an achievement of no little difficulty and waste of
+time, owing to the strength of the current and the terror and obstinacy of
+some of our horses.
+
+After a ride of several hours in a sort of green twilight, the forest
+began to open, and there before our astonished gaze was the most important
+waterfall on the island, imparting an inconceivable freshness and
+animation to the landscape around. The Fautáua makes at this point a leap
+of about 200 metres (650 feet), into a huge basin, which lies at the foot
+of a lofty precipice, 420 metres (1450 feet) above the level of the sea;
+the temperature of the water in the basin itself being about 70° Fahr.
+
+The steep crags, which tower overhead on all sides, and like a gigantic
+wall impede the view of the peninsula of Taiarapu, which lies behind them,
+are as marvellous in the luxuriance of the vegetation that covers them, as
+they are strategically important by their impregnability, the French
+having only succeeded in gaining footing upon them by treachery, and not
+by fortune of war. Some chiefs favourable to the French had acted as
+guides, and had led them by secret and dangerous paths up to these
+heights, for which service they to this day receive an annual pension paid
+in gold out of the state treasury. Formerly the rough, steep, almost
+inaccessible precipices formed of themselves a natural fort, and by their
+peculiar form, their position, and their strength, might be called the key
+of the entire island. The French conquerors immediately converted this
+spot, 630 metres (2052 feet) above the level of the sea, into a small fort
+with the usual tricolor flag, and, on the limited flat surface at their
+disposal, on which alone it was possible to build, erected a barrack and a
+few huts, besides laying out a kitchen-garden, which supplies with fruit
+and vegetables the residents of this solitary but lovely abode.
+
+The officer on guard within the fort received us with that fascinating
+friendliness and _bonhommie_ characteristic of the French in all parts of
+the world, and which makes them everywhere such "jolly" companions. The
+provisions we had brought with us were speedily improved by the addition
+of everything that the garrison mess could set before us, and there was no
+lack even of delicacies, as they might be considered in these latitudes,
+for the little kitchen-garden contiguous furnished plenty of water-cresses
+and strawberries. The temperature was at this season singularly delicious
+and elastic, but in July, when the thermometer occasionally sinks to
+46-1/2° Fahr., the little garrison suffers much from cold and inflammatory
+attacks.
+
+Another excursion, not less charming but far more arduous, is that to the
+Waiiria Lake, far in the interior of the island. This was achieved by Mr.
+Frauenfeld, one of the zoologists of the Expedition. From Papeuriri in the
+south of the island, which is easily reached in one day from Papeete by a
+road winding along the coast, the Waiiria valley leads in a S.S.E. to
+N.N.W. direction, up to the central peak, whence the deep valleys and
+water-courses radiate towards the coast like the spokes of a wheel. The
+valley is at first tolerably wide, but so densely covered with trees and
+shrubs, interlaced in wild confusion, that the horses had to be left
+behind at Papeuriri. A rather wide mountain-torrent rushes throughout its
+length, and, a little further on, when the valley contracts into a
+pathless defile, has not merely to be crossed so frequently as to baffle
+all count, but leaves the tourist to scramble up its rocky course by
+leaping from stone to stone. After four hours' toil the valley suddenly
+closes in, and it becomes necessary to scramble up an almost perpendicular
+precipice 1000 feet in height. It was a tight bit of work, struggling
+upwards under a tropical rain over the slippery moss-grown blocks, every
+cranny and projection thickly studded with creeping plants. The crest of
+the pass, from 60 to 80 feet wide, hemmed in by precipices impossible to
+scale, was fortified by the natives during the war; that is to say, a
+breastwork of stones was thrown up, thus converting the depression on the
+other side of the mountain, in which lies the lake, into an inaccessible
+lurking-place. Not far distant is the deep narrow defile of Ruotorea,
+which played so conspicuous a part in the older history of Tahiti, as it
+was customary to fling into it all prisoners of war. At length, about two
+P.M., the lake itself was reached, lying in a sort of mountain cauldron,
+the sides of which descend steeply, while two of the loftiest peaks, those
+of Tetuero and Anaori, rise sheer out of the lake to a height of 5000
+feet.[81] Except at the narrow strip of ground, on which M. Frauenfeld
+found himself standing, and which was nothing but a beach of small extent,
+there was no other spot within sight at which it would have been possible
+to land. The distance to the opposite shore, when visible, seems about
+half a mile. The whole basin, even where the enclosing rocks are steepest,
+indeed, almost perpendicular, and thence up to the summits of the
+loftiest peaks, is densely covered with trees, reeds, and creepers,
+especially _scitamineæ_, the brilliant green hues of which are reflected
+in the mirror-like surface of the lake below. All the forests here are of
+wild plantain, and the sugar-cane is found growing wild in a variety of
+places. A few ducks, a swallow, and a couple of parrots were all that was
+seen of animal life. A strange silence brooded over the entire
+landscape,--not a leaf trembled, not a sound broke the solemn stillness,
+and a depressing feeling of loneliness and utter abandonment seized on the
+traveller. The spot for the night's encampment was selected close to a
+large stone, against which a sort of penthouse was erected of banana
+leaves, which promised welcome shelter during the night. The exceedingly
+unfavourable weather prevented an adequate investigation being made of the
+environs of the lake, and as the following morning was ushered in with, if
+anything, an accession of bad weather, the plan which had been projected
+of constructing a boat with which to explore the lake was abandoned, and
+the party set out on their return to Papeete.
+
+During our stay at Tahiti, a grand national festival took place at the
+little village of Faáa, about an hour's walk from Papeete. In fact, it has
+latterly become the custom, on every change of Governor, to have a feast
+of welcome in his honour in every district. On such occasions speeches are
+made, presents are prepared, dances are practised, and long tables,
+groaning under all sorts of food and drink, are set out in the open air
+for the invited guests. Governor Saisset, who had been seven months in
+office, and had already made the circuit of the island, visiting all the
+districts, was, however, not yet welcomed with the customary festivities
+of the inhabitants of Faáa. This solemnity accordingly passed off with all
+pomp on 22nd February. By eight A.M. some twenty cavaliers had assembled
+in front of the Government Palace, whence, with the Governor at their
+head, and accompanied by the native militia, also mounted, they took the
+road to Faáa. Only one lady, Madame de la Richerie, wife of the
+_Commissaire Impérial_, accompanied the cavalcade. On our arrival at Faáa
+we found the native females, attired in their gayest national dress,
+formed into line, and the men, partly clothed in the European manner,
+partly in the "_Paréu_," a broad scarf of printed muslin wound round the
+loins, shaking their variegated plumes, and carrying banners and flags of
+bark specially prepared for the feast, some Pandanus leaves being also
+handed to the guests.
+
+As soon as the Governor had taken his seat in the verandah of the large
+and elegant residence of the chieftain, or warden of the district (for in
+Tahiti every office, with all rights pertaining thereto, descends among
+the female members of the chief's family likewise),[82] a number of girls,
+dressed all in white and wearing elegant garlands of flowers, stepped
+forward and began to sing a national Tahitian hymn; after which the orator
+of the day, a handsome man, dressed partly in the European, partly in the
+native manner, wearing a black round felt hat and feathers, and a
+variegated bark shirt over a black coat(!) delivered a very pathetic
+address. His delivery and his gestures recalled strongly to mind the New
+Zealand orators, but, unlike the latter, he was considerate enough not to
+tax unduly the patience of his foreign guests, to whom not one word of his
+very moving discourse was intelligible. This preliminary over, a number of
+girls presented themselves one after the other to the Governor, and in
+token of allegiance presented their garlands and the nicely prepared upper
+robe of bast. In this manner about 100 crowns and bast-mantilles were
+delivered, the most elegant of which the Governor kindly presented to the
+members of our Expedition.
+
+In the reception-court a perfect mountain of bananas had been piled up,
+together with an immense heap of cocoa-nuts; these were also presented to
+the Governor and his suite, with the remark that every inhabitant of the
+district had contributed his mite to the festival, and bade the foreign
+guests a cordial welcome. "We may stay days, weeks, ay! months," exclaimed
+the orator, "and every house and all that was in it will be placed at our
+disposal; every one will take a pleasure in doing our bidding and
+forestalling all our wishes!"
+
+After this hearty, idyllic ceremonial, the inhabitants of Punataná, an
+adjoining district, came up, amid a flourish of drums and trumpets, and
+arranged themselves on the wide road right in front of the chieftainess of
+Faáa, in consequence of Maheanú, their chieftainess, a zealous Protestant,
+not permitting on her grounds the execution of any improper dances, or the
+singing of broad songs. In fact, neither the Upa-Upa nor any other of the
+numerous Tahitian "_Cancans à la Chicard_" were suffered to be danced; the
+consequence of which was that they danced it all the more eagerly on the
+road. Six drummers, each with his little kettle-drum, squatted
+cross-legged on the floor, the right hand being employed to strike the
+instrument. To this primitive music, enlivened at times by a shrill cry,
+both men and girls now began to go through the most indecent gestures,
+accompanied by leaping on and toying with their partners till they had
+worked themselves up to such an artificial frenzy of excitement, that each
+couple at last retired exhausted and bathed in perspiration, under a
+flourish of drums and a loud shriek from the orchestra.
+
+The French Governor, the representative of European decorum, was one of
+the most animated of the spectators, and gave full swing to the
+recklessness of the Tahitians, who are accustomed to push the law of
+hospitality to the extent of prostituting their daughters, remarking, with
+much _naïveté_, that the natives would take it exceedingly ill were any
+one to refuse to take part in certain old habits and customs, or were to
+declare themselves openly opposed to their continuance!
+
+At the close of the fête the Governor ordered some French wines, "the
+cocoa milk of the Europeans," to be set before the inhabitants of Faáa. A
+_déjeûner à la fourchette_ was laid out under tents, where, at twenty long
+tables covered in the European manner, the most distinguished personages
+took their seats. Every family had contributed something, the whole having
+the appearance of a regular pic-nic.
+
+On each table were displayed flowers, bananas, bread-fruit, and other
+delicious products of the vegetable world. The European guests were seated
+at a large table erected at the upper end of an alley of trees. The
+chieftainess and her husband sat beside the Governor. Next in order was
+the Government interpreter, a Mr. Darling, the son of one of the oldest
+English missionaries sent out to Tahiti, on whom devolved the
+interpretation into Tahitian or French, as the case might be, of the
+various speeches and toasts.
+
+The dinner-service, at our table at least, was entirely in the European
+manner, which seemed to me a pity; a meal without knives or forks, as is
+the custom among the natives, would have been infinitely more interesting
+and peculiar. The husband gave the health of the ruler of France,
+and--evidently in honour of the guests from the banks of the Danube--that
+of the Emperor of Austria! Immediately thereafter the Governor rose
+suddenly and left the table, with the intention, it would seem, of
+escaping some untimeous speeches of the natives. The company presently
+broke up, and while a few of the guests returned straight to the port, the
+majority, the French Governor himself mingling with the excited populace,
+did not reach Papeete till far in the night.
+
+The fête at Faáa was followed, a few days later, 24th February, by a
+dashing ball at the Governor's. The _Pré Catalan_ was gaily festooned with
+coloured lamps, and various devices for illuminating the festivities. The
+Tahitians, accustomed to dance only in the darkness of night, or at most
+under the light of a few paltry suet candles, flocked hither in crowds to
+revel in the brilliant light, and witness the Europeans dance the
+"_Upa-Upa_" after their own fashion. Within the Palace was assembled all
+that was ultra-fashionable in Tahitian society. All the authorities and
+notabilities of the country were present. More than 200 persons thronged
+the apartment, where, out of courtesy to our host, the band of our frigate
+played a succession of polkas, waltzes, and quadrilles. Queen Pomáre,
+accompanied by her consort and several princes and princesses of her
+house, was also present. The Governor received her at the threshold of the
+apartment, offered her his arm, and escorted her to seats already reserved
+for the royal family. Pomáre is now almost fifty years of age, stout and
+under the middle size, with a full inexpressive countenance, and a
+waddling gait. Her toilette was simple but thoroughly European. She wore a
+white ball-dress of the latest French _mode_, and flowers in her hair. In
+her hands she also carried a gigantic bouquet. Her youngest son, a boy of
+twelve years, named after Prince de Joinville, showed spirit and
+vivacity; the heir to the throne seemed feeble, sickly, and too soon
+matured.
+
+This happened to be the first presentation of the members of the
+Expedition to the Queen--the first opportunity they had had of conversing
+with her. Hitherto there had been apparent on the part of the French
+authorities a reluctance to bring about a meeting, which the Queen might
+possibly regard as a triumph. In fact, Queen Pomáre was not at liberty to
+receive any one in her house, except members of her family, without first
+obtaining the permission of the French authorities. Two incidents, which
+had occurred to arouse the French authorities shortly before our arrival,
+had still further contributed to sharpen the Queen's watchfulness, and to
+limit her receptions to her own nearest relatives. The poor woman had,
+after much pressure, and without communicating with M. Saisset, signed in
+his absence a document which fairly ran counter to a previous ordinance on
+the same subject. A territorial squabble, which had long before been
+decided by law, had, through the exertions of one of the parties
+interested, been once more brought up for trial, before the native bench,
+as it was thought that the result of the opinion of several judges might
+be productive of some more favourable result. The Governor refused his
+assent to this proceeding. The Queen, notwithstanding, under bad advice,
+issued a written mandate to the native Court to try the case over again.
+As the Court was being assembled, however, it was dismissed by the
+Governor, the chief judge banished to an adjoining island, and the Queen
+compelled herself to abrogate the ordinance. A somewhat similar affair had
+occurred a few weeks before at the village of Papaoa, near which Queen
+Pomáre possesses a country-house, in which some of the royal family were
+implicated. Some native feasts, which in Tahiti are always accompanied
+with the wildest Bacchanalian license, had excited the crowd to an unusual
+degree. A few of the Tahitian nationality-mongers drank death to the
+whites, and pretty openly declared their hostility to a foreign yoke. The
+excess of a couple of drunken patriots was magnified by the excited fancy
+of the French officers into the dimensions of a political _émeute_, and
+seemed to present the long-coveted opportunity of showing their authority,
+and of acquiring with little trouble the credit of having nipped in the
+bud a formidable insurrection. As soon as the news of these seditious
+speeches and exclamations reached head-quarters, the Governor marched in
+the night with 150 well-armed soldiers to Papaoa, distant about an hour's
+march from the capital. Pomáre and her family were just assembled to
+evening prayers, when the Governor made his appearance, and ordered her
+forthwith to accompany him to Papeete. An Englishman resident in the
+harbour was ordered to convey the Queen to her town residence in his small
+one-horse waggon. Her two sons, however, were escorted to Papeete as
+prisoners on foot, and their hands bound behind their backs, their ears
+saluted by the oft-repeated threat of the soldiers that their lives should
+answer for any intentional injury which the Europeans might sustain at
+the hands of the natives. As the procession approached the harbour, the
+Queen bent forward to her driver, and asked him in a low voice whether it
+was intended to carry her to the _Carabus_.[83] The driver turned off
+towards her own residence. As he turned the corner, the Queen suddenly
+started forwards, and seizing the reins from the driver with both hands,
+stopped the horse, and looked whether her two sons were by her side. She
+feared they would be taken to the prison, but they were likewise conducted
+to her house. However, Queen Pomáre and all her family and attendants were
+cautioned not to leave Papeete till the matter had been thoroughly
+inquired into. An intimation was even conveyed to the Protestant
+missionary Mr. Howe that he must discontinue his visits to the Queen till
+further orders.
+
+Under these circumstances it is more than probable that the persecuted
+Queen only made her appearance at the ball in deference to the Governor's
+commands, and hence possibly she confined her conversation with the
+strangers to the most common-place topics. The Queen was described to us
+as a clever, well-educated woman, who spoke English with considerable
+fluency, as also a little French, and in public affairs displayed a
+surprising degree of shrewdness and tact. With the French authorities she
+conversed exclusively in Tahitian. She appears much to dislike the
+intervention of an interpreter or secretary, preferring greatly to place
+herself directly in communication with the official concerned, as an
+autograph letter exhibits, which she addressed to the Treasurer
+Receiver-general, requesting him to send her a carriage in which to drive
+on business from her estate at Papaoa to Papeete.[84]
+
+It is very surprising to find in the course of conversation with natives
+of every grade, that notwithstanding the French Protectorate has now
+lasted upwards of twenty years, the French language has hardly made the
+slightest advance. We met but two natives who could speak French. The
+knowledge of English even is confined to the few individuals who live
+entirely on the coast, and come frequently into contact with foreigners. A
+law was in contemplation, however, at the period of our visit, by the
+provisions of which no native after the lapse of 10 years, that is to say,
+by 1869, would be eligible for any Government employ, not even that of a
+_murtói_ (police sergeant, literally "one who listens secretly to the
+words of the people"[85]), unless he has a thorough acquaintance with
+French.
+
+On the whole, the Government of the Second of December appears to regard
+Tahiti simply as a military outpost and naval station, and to attach
+little value to the evident future commercial importance of the island.
+If, however, there are behind this ostensible indifference no secret
+views, or political _arrière-pensées_ involved, it must undoubtedly be
+pronounced most unjust and unwise. True, Tahiti possesses but a small
+proportion of surface suitable for cultivation; true, with the exception
+of oranges,[86] there is hardly any natural product exported,[87] the
+produce of the island barely sufficing to support its own population; but,
+apart from its extremely favourable geographical position, and the
+vegetable profusion of this and the adjoining islands, Tahiti might, under
+able administration, be made a sort of general emporium for the
+interchange of the products of Polynesia against the fabrics of Europe.
+
+The total superficial area of Tahiti amounts to 104,215 hectares, 79,485
+of which form Tahiti proper and the isthmus of Taravao, while the
+peninsula of Taiarapu comprises the remaining 24,730. The greater portion
+of this surface is occupied by mountains, only a very small proportion
+being devoted to tillage. At the mouths of several of the rivers are small
+strips of arable land, of which the plains of Taunoa (near Papeete), Point
+Venus, Pusenaura, Papara, Papeuriri, and Papeari, as also the delta of the
+river Fautáua, on the peninsula of Taiarapu, are the most important.
+
+All these level grounds put together do not amount to more than from 2200
+to 2500 hectares, while the swampy state of much of even this small area
+renders many portions fit only for the cultivation of taro and rice.[88]
+
+The climate of Tahiti is uncommonly salubrious and delightful; the
+temperature is tolerably uniform, and is sensibly moderated by the
+alternate land and sea-breezes. Only about mid-day, when there usually
+sets in that profound calm, which the French, in their elegant
+epigrammatic way, style _l'immobilité des feuilles_, the heat becomes
+absolutely oppressive, but the mornings and evenings are cool, and the air
+very refreshing. The average maximum temperature during the rainy season
+is 84°.4 Fahr., the average minimum 74°.6 Fahr. Only immediately prior to
+the outbreak of a storm does the fluctuation of the thermometer become
+strongly marked. In the dry season the temperature averages 80°.6 Fahr.
+during the day, and 68° Fahr. during the night. When, however, as
+occasionally happens, the temperature at Papeete sinks to 57°.2 Fahr. and
+at Fautáua to 46°.4 Fahr., or even lower, even the Europeans are compelled
+to adopt certain precautions against taking cold, which the natives for
+the most part disregard, and are accordingly liable to acute inflammatory
+disorders.
+
+With such a temperature, combined with the fertility insured by the
+volcanic tufa soil, it is perfectly evident that the majority of the
+tropical and sub-tropical nut-bearing and other alimentary plants might be
+extensively grown upon the island without much difficulty. The sugar-cane,
+the coffee-tree, the cotton-shrub, the vanilla, the cocoa-tree, the indigo
+plant, the sorgho[89], rice, maize, &c., flourish here in a marked degree,
+and their persistent cultivation would realize a splendid profit for the
+landowner.
+
+Of fruits there are bananas, bread-fruits, mangoes, ananas (pine-apples),
+papayas (carica papayi), pandanus fruit, cocoa-nuts, oranges, lemons,
+anonas (a kind of custard apple), guavas, &c. The chief sustenance of the
+natives consists of the following:--
+
+I. The féi, or wild plantain (_Musa Féi_, or _Musa Rubra_), of which there
+are five varieties. It is first encountered at an elevation of from 600 to
+800 feet above the sea, grows most luxuriantly between the zones of 1000
+and 1500 feet, is of a very peculiar saffron-yellow colour, and is usually
+either roasted or boiled.
+
+II. The haari, or cocoa-palm (_Cocos nucifera_), whose trunk, bark,
+leaves, and fruit are pressed into their service by the natives. The
+fruit, however, is the most important, as it is used as meat for man and
+beast, as well as a beverage, and to obtain oil from it. Mixed with fine
+sandal-wood shavings and other aromatic substances, the oily liquid
+pressed out from the cocoa-nut is used by the Tahiti women as a
+much-prized cosmetic (_monoï_), with which to lubricate their long
+beautiful black hair. Here, as among the other South Sea islands, the
+cocoa-palm begins to bear after the first seven or eight years only, after
+which, however, it becomes so abundant that the fruit of each tree is
+valued at five francs annually. It takes 20 to 25 cocoa-nuts to make a
+gallon of oil.[90]
+
+III. The urú (also called _Maioré_), or bread-fruit tree (_Artocarpus
+incisa_), is, after the cocoa-palm, the most useful tree on the island.
+The fruit, baked in a canak (or native) oven, (_vide ante_, p. 162),
+between two heated stones, is the substitute for bread to the Tahitians.
+At the period of the war, or in consequence of a short crop, the natives,
+like the New Zealanders and the aborigines of the Caroline Archipelago,
+buried the fruit of the urú in the earth, and ate it in the putrefied
+state. The bread-tree is productive thrice in the year. The first crop,
+the best and largest, ripens in March, the second in July, the third,
+Manavahói, at the end of November. The fruit varies from eight to twelve
+pounds in weight.
+
+IV. The fara, or _pandanus_, the fruit of which is treated in the same
+manner as that of the urú, while the leaves serve as a thatch for the
+bamboo-cane huts of the aborigines. Of the red seeds of the _pandanus
+odoratissimus_, the ornament-loving Tahitian women prepare exceedingly
+fine coronals and necklaces. The leaves of another species, called irí by
+the natives, are used for enveloping tobacco, and making cigarettes, as
+also in the manufacture of house mats, and mats on which to sleep.
+
+V. The taro (_Caladium esculentum_), a sort of tuber, which at certain
+seasons supplies any deficiency in the bread-fruit, and is very carefully
+cultivated by the natives. Of this plant there are in Tahiti thirteen
+varieties.
+
+VI. Pia (_Tacca pinnatifida_), a sort of tuber resembling the taro, the
+mealy substance of which is chiefly used as nutriment for children and
+convalescent persons, and which in commerce is erroneously confounded
+with arrow-root, the latter being chiefly procured from the Antilles and
+India, more especially from _Marantha Indica_ and _Marantha arundinacea_.
+The pia is also much used in Tahitian households in the preparation of
+small sweet cakes (_Poe-pia_), and is a not unpalatable substitute for
+wheaten flour.
+
+VII. Hói, or yams (_Dioscorea alata_), of which useful tuber a variety of
+species are extensively used on the island.
+
+VIII. Umará, or sweet potato (_Convolvulus Batata_), preferred by the
+natives to the European potato, and widely cultivated, though it has
+somewhat degenerated in Tahiti.
+
+IX. Fare-rupe (_Pteris esculentum_), a kind of fern, the root of which was
+in former times much used for food here, as also in New Zealand.
+
+There still remain to be noticed two plants of much interest, from the
+roots of which the Tahitians, prior to the arrival of the Europeans,
+obtained strong intoxicating beverages.[91] These are the ti-plant
+(_Cordyline Australis_) and the kawa, or ava (_Piper methysticum_), of
+which latter fourteen varieties are known to the natives.
+
+The cultivation of this species of pepper is at present prohibited in
+Tahiti, and kawa-drinking has accordingly fallen into entire disuse. Only
+on the peninsula are a few aged Tahitians to be found, who appear
+obstinately opposed to the use of our alcoholized liquors, who on special
+festivities will face every privation for the luxury of boozing over their
+kawa, for which they sometimes pay five francs for a small piece.
+
+Formerly the process of chewing the kawa was performed by the young girls,
+and then only by those who had the finest teeth. Before beginning this
+delicate task, they were required carefully to rinse their mouths and
+purify their hands, for which purpose they made use of special vessels.
+When the roots had been slowly and equally chewed, and had been changed
+into little cones held together by saliva, they were mingled with water in
+a large wooden vessel (_Umeli_), standing upon a tripod, and gently
+squeezed by hand. In many of the islands this process of dilution is
+performed by mixing cocoa-nut juice instead of the customary water. The
+kawa is a very fluid substance, not very inviting in appearance at any
+time, but still less so when one has witnessed the mode of preparing it.
+Usually it is of the colour of _café au lait_; but occasionally, when some
+of the leaves of the plant have been mixed with the root, the beverage
+assumes a greenish tinge, something like wormwood, although to the palate
+it has nothing in common with that substance.
+
+Kawa is drunk out of the half of the cocoa-nut shell, which in the hands
+of a native skilled in carving becomes a really elegant beaker. Only
+families of high birth, the Arii and Raatira,[92] who are exempted from
+toil, are however able to indulge in the luxury of a daily draught of
+kawa. The symptoms of intoxication are very similar to those of opium. In
+the kawa-drinker, like the opium-eater or Samshoo smoker, there is a
+nervous tremulousness perceptible, followed by utter exhaustion, and an
+overpowering necessity for sleep. After its effects have passed off, there
+is a sensation of weariness in the limbs, to remove which the regular
+kawa-drinkers are accustomed to plunge into the cold waters of the nearest
+mountain stream. A very peculiar cuticular disease, the infallible result
+of the daily use of this beverage, is called by the natives _Arewarewa_.
+
+A German chemist, M. Nöllenberger, who was resident at Papeete during our
+visit to the Archipelego, had succeeded in September, 1858, in
+crystallizing the essential principle of the kawa root, which he called
+Kawaïn, the powers and properties of which he was about to investigate
+more minutely. As we have since then been favoured with a copy of the very
+valuable work of Mr. G. Cuzent upon Tahiti, already alluded to, we learn
+therein that that zealous naturalist had already, in 1857, found in the
+kawa root an organic base, which he termed Kawahine, and which is fully
+described in his interesting Monography (p. 99).
+
+Owing to kawa-drinking having been prohibited in Tahiti, chiefly through
+the influence of the missionaries, the use of brandy and other spirituous
+liquors is beginning to exercise a not less baneful influence in that
+island upon the physical and intellectual powers.
+
+In agriculture, as in commerce, the effect of the French Protectorate has
+been visibly to slacken the rate of progress. The number of ships that
+visit the island does not exceed 60 to 80 annually, representing an
+interchange of merchandise to the value of about £64,000 per annum, of
+which about five-eighths, or £40,000, may be estimated as the amount
+exported.[93] What is most surprising, is the small number of whalers who
+visit the island for provisions and repairs. In 1836, the total number was
+fifty-two; at present not more than five or six in the year enter the
+harbour of Papeete. In the official reports this falling off is ascribed
+to the fish having forsaken these regions, while the stagnation of trade
+is generally ascribed to the reduction of the French garrison (!) in
+Tahiti, and the rise of late years of the Sandwich Islands and California.
+But the _true_ cause of the decay is to be sought for in a very different
+direction. It lies chiefly in a very defective system of administration,
+which is constantly being transferred from one hand to the other, having
+at its head to-day a ship-captain, and to-morrow possibly an officer of
+gensdarmes or an engineer. A letter[94] addressed to the Emperor Louis
+Napoleon by an English merchant long resident at Tahiti, unsparingly
+unveils the present disorders of Tahiti with respect to rights of
+property, administration of justice, legislation, and social state, and
+draws a shocking picture of the actual state of the island, once in such
+high estimation for the felicity of its inhabitants.
+
+On the other hand, the very benefits the mother country is supposed to
+derive from its Protectorate are at least problematical. While the
+establishment of French stations in Oceania has required about £240,000,
+the annual cost of keeping them on foot has never cost less than £100,000,
+and of this the Protectorate of Tahiti figures for from £24,000 to
+£28,000.[95] This by no means trifling sum is not however employed in
+promoting commerce or advancing trading interests; for not more than two
+or three ships in the year come direct to Tahiti from France, while the
+majority of the fabrics used there are English, which are imported from
+Valparaiso, the only port with which Papeete has regular communication.
+
+The military colony of Taiohái on the island of Nukahiwa, one of the
+Marquesas, has been entirely abandoned since 1st January, 1859, on account
+of the too great cost of keeping it up, although Uté-Moána, the king of
+the Marquesas, and the chiefs of the island of Nukahiwa, were desirous of
+retaining the French Protectorate, and had drawn up a formal address of
+submission, while, on the other hand, New Caledonia (Dum'mbia) can only be
+kept up at very considerable cost.
+
+Lately great reforms have been everywhere inaugurated, in order to
+diminish the heavy administrative expense hitherto incurred. The French
+colonies of eastern and western Oceania are to be provided with entirely
+independent administrations. The Governor of the French establishments in
+Oceania Oriental is to reside in Papeete, while his colleague of Oceania
+Occidental is to have his seat of Government at Port de France in New
+Caledonia. This subdivision, however, must add materially to the cost of
+maintenance, while it is difficult to see how it can augment the prospects
+of any increase of revenue.
+
+The French, in a word, have no success in their attempts anywhere at
+colonization; they are not practical colonists. The absence of this
+faculty, if one may call it so, is doubly apparent in the Southern
+hemisphere, where they are surrounded on all hands by English colonies.
+True it is, the English also have usually acquired by the strong hand
+their possessions in Oceania, in Australia, in Asia, &c., and from the
+stand-point of humanity it is impossible always to defend the means by
+which they have made themselves masters of the fairest and most fertile
+countries on the globe. But what have been the results directly springing
+from these high-handed acts, these political _faits accomplis_? England
+has thrown open to the unrestricted enterprise of all trading and
+seafaring nations those islands and continents so highly favoured by
+nature, with their feckless fast-disappearing aboriginal races; she has
+striven, by giving free institutions, to attract diligent colonists, to
+develope the natural wealth of these countries by means of scientific
+exploration, for the benefit of all; she has wafted to the remotest
+corners of the earth the seeds of Christian civilization, and by her
+energy, her capacity for labour, and her earnestness of purpose, has
+impressed all, even the most savage races, with a feeling of envy and
+astonishment at the intellectual superiority, the power, and the greatness
+of the white man!
+
+Under the influence of liberal but more morally stringent laws, Tahiti
+might speedily be raised to the position of a great emporium of the
+Southern seas, the Singapore of Oceania. Under the French Protectorate, on
+the contrary, the island, with its population long since renowned for
+indolence and sensuality, has become, in fact, what a French captain once
+jocularly termed it, "La Nouvelle Cythère!"
+
+Although the Society Islands are by no means a French penal settlement
+(the climate being possibly _too healthy_), there are, nevertheless, both
+at Tahiti and Nukahiwa, a few men, rather politically discontented than
+downright dangerous, whom a merciful interpretation of French martial law
+has exempted from banishment to Cayenne, (that name of terror![96]) and
+whom we might almost say that a beneficent destiny has transported to the
+shores of the South Sea. One of these political offenders, named
+Longomasino, has to thank the visit of the Austrian frigate to Papeete for
+his restoration to liberty. He had been a journalist at Toulouse in 1851,
+and maintained a zealous correspondence with some of the most intimate
+hangers-on upon Louis Napoleon, till the _coup d'état_ revealed the French
+ruler's projects, and Longomasino joined the camp of the opponents of the
+new empire. His contumacious agitation against the new order of things led
+to his imprisonment and ultimate banishment. He was first transported to
+Nukahiwa, one of the Marquesas Islands, and afterwards received permission
+to settle at Papeete in Tahiti. Starting as a farrier, then an advocate,
+and finally a tavern-keeper, he was unable in any of these capacities to
+earn a subsistence for himself and his numerous family; the less so, that
+political intrigues deprived him of the right to practise at the bar, and
+this compelled him to have recourse to a business for which he had neither
+taste nor turn. If we understood matters aright, Longomasino, in the
+course of his juridical labours, had been able to do many a good turn to
+the Catholic bishop of Tahiti in his dispute with the French
+administration, and it was therefore less sympathy with the unfortunate
+political convict than the desire to play an adversary a trick by
+depriving him of an able adherent, which induced the Governor to ask our
+Commodore permission to give a free passage to Longomasino, who had been
+condemned to transportation for life. The request was willingly granted,
+and on the eve of our sailing Longomasino came on board the frigate, while
+his wife and family were to follow by a merchant-ship. The unhappy man,
+who had not words enough wherewith to express his gratitude for the
+friendly reception he experienced, still further gained the sympathies of
+all on board, with his melancholy fate, by his manly reticence on the
+subject of the injustice he had sustained.[97]
+
+Another convict, who had excited universal attention at Papeete, was M.
+Belmare, a well-educated young man, who in 1850 avowed he had shot at
+Louis Napoleon while at the Tuileries, and, in consequence, been
+transported to Tahiti. The fact that Belmare has since then been taken
+into the employ of the treasury at Papeete, where he receives a salary of
+£100 per annum, gave colour to the most whimsical reports as to the
+clemency displayed by the French Government in this case; yet we
+repeatedly heard the opinion expressed that Belmare was solely put forward
+as a tool for carrying out--which was to be used as a blind by giving the
+Government of Louis Napoleon opportunity for new stretches of arbitrary
+power. Whether, however, a residence at Tahiti, even with a handsome
+salary, be sufficient recompence for such services, M. Belmare alone is in
+a position to say.
+
+A succession of bad weather, such as so frequently occurs in the tropics,
+delayed our departure for several days. Now it was a heavy gale,
+commencing in the north and gradually veering round to W. and S.W.; now it
+was a series of calms, while the surf swept in unbroken masses on the
+beach, and so heavily, that it seemed the height of imprudence to take the
+frigate out through the narrow channel which constitutes the mouth of the
+harbour of Papeete, and is nothing but a cleft in the coral walls which
+surround Tahiti, and protect it from the ocean swell.
+
+At length, on 28th February, at day-break, we got under weigh. One of our
+own boats, as also a boat from the French steamer _Milan_, which was
+courteously placed at our disposal, towed the _Novara_ outside the reef,
+and materially aided the efforts of our men, a barely perceptible catspaw
+of wind just filling the sails. Piloted by a native lootse, we steered out
+so close to the projecting coral reefs, that the frigate all but touched
+them.
+
+We now had a parting view of Tahiti and the little island of Motu-Uta,
+where stood our improvised observatory, and where so many sleepless nights
+had been passed in observations for the purpose of defining astronomically
+the exact position of the island.
+
+We found the breeze freshened once we were outside the reef, and steered
+northwards, beautiful Tahiti, with the imposing and irregular outline of
+its hills, and the richness and variety of its vegetation, recalling, in
+some aspects, the glowing loveliness of the tropics, in others, the still
+sublimity of some of our Alpine landscapes, till it lay behind us like a
+shadowy vision of dream-land.
+
+Almost simultaneously with the departure of the _Novara_, the American
+whaler _Emily Morgan_, Captain Chase, stood out from the harbour of
+Papeete. This vessel had been whaling in the southern seas during five
+years, without any adequate return for her perseverant exertions. Her
+entire take was as yet only four barrels of train oil!! She was now making
+for the Sandwich Islands, and thence home to Boston. Latterly, the North
+American whalers have formed themselves into partnership, so as to divide
+profit and loss. If his companions had encountered no better fortune than
+Captain Chase, they might safely aver they had worked five years for
+nothing. The crew of the _Emily Morgan_, who were as usual almost entirely
+dependent for their remuneration on their tenth share of the oil, had
+begun to despair, and six of their number deserted from the ship, to stay
+behind at Tahiti. Throughout the voyage, Captain Chase had had his wife
+with him, a spirited energetic American woman, who on occasions could take
+her trick at the helm, or even direct the ship's man[oe]uvres. So
+completely had she fallen into the ways on board ship, that even in
+ordinary conversation she frequently let slip a few sea-phrases, and
+recounted, with much pride, how, when the boats had been away in pursuit,
+she had kept her watch like a regular officer.
+
+On 8th March, Shrove Tuesday was celebrated on board. Several sailors had
+disguised themselves as Invalids, as Tahitians, as Nicobarians, &c., and
+played off all manner of pranks. Dolce, our cook, the merry-andrew of the
+vessel, figured as a troubadour, in which capacity he sang several
+heart-thrilling melodies. In the afternoon the band played on deck, and
+in the evening the jolly tars, to their great gratification, received each
+a double allowance of grog.
+
+It was our Commodore's intention to cross the shorter diameter of the
+almost elliptical curve of equal magnetic declination, which occurs in
+this vicinity, with the view, if possible, of ascertaining by observation
+by what law the "local variation" of the needle is diminishing within the
+curve of 5°, the latest indicated in the most recent magnetic charts.
+
+This curve of 5° easterly magnetic declination lies, according to F.
+Evans,[98] between the parallels of 5° 30' N. and 13° S. lat., and 120° W.
+and 134° 30' W., north-eastward from the Marquesas Islands.
+
+The magnetic needle, as is well known, does not point to the geographical
+poles, but is deflected from the due north and south meridian, in a
+direction eastward or westward according to locality, at an angle which,
+in the measure of the easterly or westerly magnetic variation of the
+plane, is called eastern or western declination or variation, and which
+not only gradually alters at every place with the lapse of time, but also
+is universally found to assume different values at different places, so
+that in certain lines, known as lines of equal declination, the variation
+remains the same for all places under that line during a certain given
+period.
+
+As the compass is the sole reliable guide of the seaman while traversing
+the ocean, and it is of the utmost importance to investigate and
+accurately lay down the ship's course for the port which is her object to
+make, it appears necessary to explain to the uninitiated how the local
+variation of the magnetic needle is determined, as thereby one can readily
+find the precise angle at which the magnetic meridian of any place is
+deflected from the true meridian.
+
+The determination of this divergence is effected by means of observations
+of the sun, by the aid of which one can calculate at any moment its actual
+bearings, as seen from the deck of the ship, and this, compared with the
+true position of the sun, gives the amount of variation.
+
+This apparently simple method of determination encounters in practice,
+owing to certain local influences, a variety of obstacles, for it is
+executed on board of a ship, which frequently contains within itself, at a
+greater or less distance from the binnacle, large superficies of iron,
+operating less or more prejudicially upon the needle, by deflecting it
+from the direction which it would actually have but for these masses of
+iron. Hence the variation is not even the same in all parts of the ship,
+nor does it follow the same direction, but varies according to certain
+laws, founded upon the intensity and direction of the magnetic attraction
+of the earth. It is therefore necessary to make allowance for these local
+deflections of the needle, in order to find the true variation of the
+needle.
+
+So far as regards the last-named, many thousand observations, both by land
+and sea, have resulted in furnishing us with a rule for empirically
+finding the amount of variation, for short periods at least, according to
+which the magnetic needle is found to vary from year to year at every spot
+along certain given lines, which it has been found possible to delineate
+upon the charts; thus showing at a glance the amount of variation to be
+allowed for at any given spot. As this is sufficient for all practical
+purposes of navigation, the seaman is, in most cases, relieved of the
+necessity of making for himself these observations and calculations, if
+only he can ascertain with anything like accuracy the position of his ship
+on the earth's surface, and has determined the amount of local variation
+on board.
+
+These iso-magnetic lines are, however, susceptible of great improvement,
+and if they are ever to become practically and universally useful,
+repeated observations must not be neglected by such navigators as have the
+means and the requisite scientific knowledge to pursue such investigation.
+
+On board the _Novara_ not a single sunshiny day was suffered to pass
+without the variation being frequently determined, or such observations
+repeated as related to the determination of local attraction on board.
+
+Under such circumstances, an unusual value attached to our ascertaining
+and following up so far as practicable the decrease in declination of the
+magnetic needle till it reached the zero point assigned to it, and
+comparing our own observations with the amounts stated on the charts.
+
+It was, however, at least as regarded nautical matters, of by no means
+special importance, that we should reach the very point of minimum
+declination,--it sufficed to ascertain that the observed diminution, as
+marked upon the charts, corresponded with our observations, which proved,
+in fact, to be the case.
+
+This confirmation proved the more satisfactory, that when we reached the
+N.E. side of the Paomotu group (also called Pakomotu, lying between
+13°-22° S., and 135°-150° W.) we found a fresh north-easter blowing, a
+phenomenon which during the fine season is due to the high temperature of
+these islands, and of course interposed a serious and persistent obstacle
+to our intended N.E. course.
+
+Another impediment to our attempt to get nearer to the zero point of
+minimum declination presented itself in the far from healthy state of the
+ship's crew. A peculiar endemic colic,[99] called by the French at Tahiti
+_colique sèche_, or _colique végétale_ (dry or vegetable colic), was
+rapidly extending among the men, and had already carried off one victim, a
+sailor, who died after a short illness on the morning of the 9th March,
+and was committed to the deep the same day with the customary solemnities.
+
+By 17th March, in 15° 52' S., and 137° 23' W., the declination of the
+magnetic needle had diminished to 5-1/2° E., and thus far agreed pretty
+accurately with that indicated by the charts; it is not, however, likely
+that it actually falls to a zero point, but rather diminishes gradually
+as the central point is approached, which would hardly be the case if the
+declination actually fell to zero.
+
+By 25th March we found ourselves about the latitude of Pitcairn Island,
+from which we were barely one hundred miles distant. This island, so
+singular alike by its physical features and its remarkable history as the
+retreat of the surviving mutineers of the _Bounty_ with their families,
+has latterly had its interesting population removed to Norfolk Island,
+where there was room for the simple God-fearing community to increase its
+numbers without the risk of an excess of population over the resources of
+the soil, as there appeared reason to apprehend had they been left on
+Pitcairn Island.
+
+The story of the mutiny itself, the escape and subsequent career of
+Captain and Admiral Bligh, the extraordinary change that came over Adams
+when, ere ten years had passed, he found himself the sole survivor of the
+mutineers, all but one of whom died a violent death, and the hardly less
+marvellous manner in which this primitive community was discovered, after
+the lapse of nearly thirty years, are themes that need no recapitulation
+here. Much less known however is their subsequent, hardly less singular,
+destiny, and it will not, therefore, be out of place if, in the interests
+of the general reader, we vouchsafe a passing notice of their strange
+career.
+
+In 1814, twenty-five years after the mutiny, Sir Thomas Staines in H.M.S.
+_Briton_ visited the island, at which time the little colony consisted of
+46 individuals, 38 of whom had been born thus far from all civilization.
+Nevertheless the little community were living contented and happy in all
+the simplicity of a patriarchal family, and in the cultivation of the
+cardinal virtues of Christian morality, inculcated by the now venerable
+Will. Adams, such as thankfulness to the Creator of all things, patience,
+gentleness, and neighbourly love.
+
+The very singular origin of this exemplary race repeatedly attracted
+passing ships to this little-known island, and this intercourse did not
+fail to exercise a pernicious effect upon the spiritual-mindedness of the
+islanders, the more so that there were among these numbers of desperate
+adventurers, who did all in their power to mislead this simple-minded
+race.
+
+When Captain Beechy, in 1825, approached the island in his ship _Blossom_,
+he perceived a small boat standing off towards him under full sail. On
+board were Adams himself and several of his pupils. They requested
+permission to come on board, and hardly waiting for an answer, the little
+active lads had clambered up and stood on the quarter-deck. Adams had lost
+his youthful agility, and for a moment seemed to hesitate. The sight of a
+man-of-war, it may well be conceived, made a deep impression upon him. It
+called up too many mournful recollections, and when he beheld the cannon
+and all the "circumstance of war," with which in his youth he had been
+familiar, he could no longer restrain himself, and tears of emotion
+flowed down his wrinkled cheeks and silvery beard. At this period the
+island boasted 66 inhabitants, and the old man felt deep anxiety lest the
+little spot of earth to which he was banished apparently without hope of
+reprieve, should ere long prove insufficient to provide adequate support
+or even space for its rapidly-increasing population.[100] He spoke to the
+excellent Beechy upon the subject, and implored the English Government to
+provide his little flock with a more comfortable abiding-place under the
+English sceptre, and better adapted to the wants of his rapidly-increasing
+posterity.
+
+On 5th March, 1829, Adams expired at the age sixty-five, surrounded by his
+children and descendants. In the latter days of his illness, during the
+short intervals of ease which his intermittent agony left him, he
+expressed a wish that the community would during his life select some one
+to be their head; however, out of respect for the venerable sufferer, this
+was not carried out officially, but after the death of Adams, Edward
+Johnny, son of one of the seamen of the _Bounty_, assumed the Presidency
+of the little colony, while renouncing the honorary title.
+
+Under him the Anglo-Tahitian settlers enjoyed visible prosperity, when an
+unexpected event destroyed for ever the placid tenure of their existence,
+and compelled them to leave their beloved island. On his return to Europe,
+the gallant Beechy, intending to confer a real benefit on the gentle
+people in whom he felt so lively an interest, had laid before the British
+Government Adams' dying request, in consequence of which an English
+man-of-war and a transport made their appearance from Port Jackson,
+Australia, in March, 1831, to transport the whole of the inhabitants to
+Tahiti, which European nations regarded as the most suitable spot for them
+to be settled in. The Pitcairn Islanders were in despair, for, when made
+aware of the steps taken by "Father Adams" through Captain Beechy to get
+them placed under the British Crown, the good folks had long before
+written to England and urgently entreated that they would not remove them
+from their own hearth; but their entreaties seem not to have reached the
+proper quarter, or else to have received no attention, and now that the
+two ships lay off the island, evincing the interest taken by the English
+Government in their future destiny, they could not venture on refusing to
+embark. They had to content themselves with the assurance that they should
+be restored to Pitcairn Island, in the event of their not finding
+themselves comfortable in their new asylum.
+
+By the end of March, 1831, they reached Tahiti. Although Queen Pomáre had
+set apart a certain tract of land for them to settle in, and manifested
+the warmest interest, and though the usually frivolous but hospitable and
+kindly Tahitians received the new arrivals in the most cordial manner,
+the pure minds of the latter were so disgusted and revolted with what they
+saw at Papeete, that the very day after they disembarked, they loudly
+declared that under no circumstances would they remain there, and
+therefore claimed to be taken back to Pitcairn's Island. When it was found
+that all representations failed to induce them to make any stay at Tahiti,
+a few Protestant missionaries got up, in conjunction with some English
+residents, a fund of some £400, with which they chartered a schooner, for
+the purpose of restoring the Pitcairn Islanders to their rocky paradise in
+the solitudes of the Pacific, for which they felt such an irresistible
+homesickness. In August of the same year the return voyage took place.
+During their short stay at Tahiti, fourteen had died of sheer grief and
+anguish of mind, like plants that had been transplanted into a foreign
+soil. Although only six months absent in all from Pitcairn Island, there
+was not one single family but had to regret the loss of some beloved
+member!
+
+Despite their bitter experience hitherto, the old terror of
+over-population again arose in the bosoms of the Pitcairners, after a
+series of prosperous and peaceful years, and a wish began to be frequently
+expressed that at least a portion of the inhabitants could be drafted off
+to some other island. In order to comprehend and do justice to this
+feeling, one must place oneself in the position of a resident on an
+extremely small solitary island in the ocean, which is often for years
+cut off from any communication with the outer world, and every corner of
+which has already been cultivated to the utmost: would it not be a
+pardonable anxiety, which in view of such circumstances should fill with
+gloomy forebodings the heart of every prudent head of a family, and make
+him hesitate between love for his native soil, and the desire to preserve
+independence and comfort to his family?
+
+A second attempt at acquiring a settlement beyond their own confined
+limits was not more fortunate than the first. The Government of England,
+with the meritorious care for the interest of even the poorest of her
+subjects in the most remote regions of the globe, which is one of her
+noblest characteristics, once more dispatched a ship of war to Pitcairn,
+with orders to transport the inhabitants to Norfolk Island between New
+Zealand and New California, of the marvellous climate, vegetation, and
+fertility of which the most glowing accounts were in circulation. A few
+plants which had been conveyed thence by English navigators to Europe had
+excited universal astonishment--such exquisite forms of vegetation, it was
+thought, could only form part of some landscape of marvellous beauty and
+richness. And one must, in fact, have seen the _Araucaria excelsa_, the
+well-known Norfolk Island pine, in order rightly to understand these
+raptures. Such an island, it was thought, with an equable climate,
+fertile, and of adequate extent, must be the very thing for the idyllic
+life of such a people as the Pitcairn Islanders. Adams' descendants and
+their kinsmen accordingly suffered themselves to be persuaded into trying
+this change, the more so that their own island was beginning, as had long
+been foreseen, to prove too small for them, and the possibility of a
+deficiency of food began to assume an appalling air of probability.
+
+In May, 1856, the British Government expended £5000 in sending another
+ship from Sydney to Pitcairn, to carry out the wishes of the inhabitants
+and their advocates in England, by transporting the entire community to
+Norfolk Island. There were in all 193 souls, viz. 40 men, 47 women, 54
+boys and 52 girls, who now said farewell to the land of their birth. But
+on this occasion also the elder seemed to feel an anticipation of their
+speedy return, and before they embarked they took every possible
+precaution to ensure their finding their dwellings in the same order in
+which they were leaving them. They placed written bills on the doors of
+their houses, in which they requested all visitors to abstain from
+injuring their property, as they were only leaving the island for an
+indefinite visit, and would very speedily return to their old quarters.
+They killed all the pigs and dogs upon the island, lest the first should
+violate the sanctity of the grave, and the latter injure their flocks and
+herds.
+
+By the ensuing harvest-time they were installed in their new home.
+Provided for the first time by the English Government with the requisite
+means of subsistence, as well as agricultural implements, &c., they seemed
+to feel themselves quite at home, and their friends and well-wishers in
+England began to indulge hopes that they had at last found at Norfolk
+Island the long-wished-for asylum, and as energetic and industrious
+landowners would at once benefit themselves and develope the resources of
+the island. These pleasing anticipations were the more natural, as for a
+number of years nothing more was heard of the "Pitcairn Islanders," except
+that everything was going on prosperously and quietly in the new colony.
+
+While the _Novara_ was lying at Sydney, in November and December, 1858,
+intelligence was received respecting these colonists, in whom, on account
+of their singular history, the deepest interest was felt there as
+elsewhere. In the (then) Governor-general's (Sir W. Denison's) residence
+we saw a photographic group of the islanders, male and female, whose
+pleasing expression involuntarily excited profound sympathy for the
+persons thus represented. Since their arrival in Norfolk Island there had
+been no more definite news concerning them.
+
+At New Zealand, in like manner, nothing was known of what they were doing.
+At St. John's College, Auckland, we quite accidentally fell in with two
+young well-grown men, who we were told were Pitcairn Islanders in the
+course of education for missionaries. There was in their faces a mild,
+half-melancholy expression; they spoke perfectly good English, but in the
+most ordinary conversation used Scriptural phraseology. It was known that
+when he began to instruct the younger members of the community Adams
+possessed only a Bible and some religious books. Thus they not only were
+instructed in the Book of books, but even in ordinary life the biblical
+phraseology and peculiarity of expression still clung, even to the fourth
+generation.
+
+During our visit to Tahiti we heard one day that the schooner _Louisa_,
+Captain Stewart, had just arrived from Pitcairn Island, whither he had
+transported a number of its former inhabitants from Norfolk Island. We
+resolved to get speech with this gentleman, in order that we might gather
+from his own lips the details of his voyage. It so chanced that he stayed
+in the house of an English settler, who had let to us a small palm-hut
+during our stay at Papeete. We very soon struck up an acquaintance.
+Captain Stewart, a genuine Englishman in appearance, character, and
+expression, explained to us in brief terms that he had at their own cost
+transported a number of the Pitcairners from Norfolk Isle to their old
+home, and, during the voyage, which lasted some weeks, had kept a pretty
+full journal. "But," continued the truth-loving captain, "I am not at
+present in a position to give you any circumstantial details respecting
+them. Business compels me to go over to the island of Eimeo, and by the
+time I return hither the _Novara_ will be well on her way to Valparaiso. I
+am likewise bound, however, for the west coast of South America, in fact
+to Valparaiso, and shall probably arrive there a few weeks after you. I
+promise you, during my voyage thither, to jot down the most important data
+I can recall respecting these islanders, and they shall be placed at your
+disposal immediately on my arrival in Valparaiso." We thanked Captain
+Stewart for his kindness, and we parted with a vigorous "shake hands" of
+genuine English cordiality.
+
+The reader will see in the subsequent chapter how honourably the worthy
+skipper kept his word. Two months later, after we had sailed over 5220
+nautical miles, we were handed the promised information; but to preserve
+uniformity we shall present the reader at once with this comprehensive
+sketch of the present state of Pitcairn and its amiable inhabitants, as
+furnishing the latest particulars of the islanders, which are now for the
+first time published in Europe.
+
+"Captain Stewart had been in communication with the inhabitants of
+Pitcairn in November, 1858. Landing at Norfolk Island, in the course of a
+voyage in the South Sea, the community chartered his schooner to convey
+certain of their number back to Pitcairn Island. They declared they had
+only quitted Pitcairn in consequence of the glowing description given them
+of Norfolk Island. Instead of the promised superabundance, they could only
+by dint of severe labour provide themselves with the ordinary necessaries
+of life. Their staple of food was sweet potatoes and a small quantity of
+meat, in fact, a single bullock, which by permission of Government they
+slaughtered once a week, and the flesh of which served the entire
+community.
+
+"Besides all this, the rudeness of the climate did not seem to suit them,
+and diseases seemed to become more and more frequent among them. In fact,
+it turned out that the natural advantages of Norfolk Island had been
+persistently overrated by early visitors, the consequence being that the
+poor Pitcairners found themselves woefully disappointed in the
+expectations they had formed of their sojourn in this terrestrial
+paradise.
+
+"The scenery of the island is everywhere lovely, and the peculiarity of
+its vegetation, especially when seen from seaward, exercises a kind of
+fascination over the beholder; but the ground, which is the most important
+consideration for the settler, who is bound to the soil, not by the
+sublime and beautiful, but by the useful, is very far from being fertile,
+and the sole descriptions of produce extensively raised are maize and
+sweet potato. Wheat and barley are so exposed to frost and mildew that
+only one crop out of several proves remunerative, and the potato makes so
+small a return, in consequence of the amount of seed and labour required,
+that it is only cultivated as a rarity. Even the commonest vegetables are
+scanty and of poor quality, and under these circumstances it is at least
+probable that the cultivation formerly carried on by the English convicts
+and criminals, in which the results would naturally exceed expectation,
+had led to the mistaken idea that Norfolk Island was fertile. It is about
+9000 English acres (14 English square miles) of superficial area, of which
+about 1500 acres only are cleared, and but one half of that, or
+one-twelfth of the whole, suitable for cultivation.
+
+"It is just possible to land on either the south or north sides, if _the
+water be smooth_; the little village is situated near the former, and
+consists of about 100 'block-houses' of various dimensions. There are also
+a number of stone-buildings upon the island, which speak of the times when
+the island was a penal settlement, and comprises a large prison for about
+2000 convicts, besides the necessary barracks for the military guard; a
+church, a hospital, magazines, and dwelling-houses for the Governor, the
+chaplain, the inspector, the officers, &c., buildings which, taken in
+conjunction with the grave-mounds and frail tombstones of the adjoining
+churchyard, tell a mournful tale to the visitor of the earlier
+inhabitants, and of the tragic fate of many thousands who must have toiled
+and sunk under their hopeless doom in Norfolk Island.
+
+"The Pitcairn Islanders occupied the houses constructed for the Government
+officials, and had not shown the slightest attempt to settle upon spots
+suitable for agriculture. When the British Government made the island over
+to them to be cleared and reclaimed there were about 2000 head of sheep,
+several hundred cattle, 20 draught horses, and a large number of swine and
+poultry. In addition to this handsome present, Government gave them
+provisions for six months, besides agricultural implements, seeds of
+various useful plants, and vegetables of every description. There were
+also two sloops, of about 15 tons each, left at the island, besides a
+complete stock of household necessaries. All the above were made a free
+gift of to the islanders by the British Government, which merely reserved
+to itself a part of what used to be the prison-buildings, in case it
+should wish to devote them to its former purposes at some future period.
+
+"When Captain Stewart visited Norfolk Island, in 1858, the population
+consisted of 219 Pitcairn Islanders, and two English soldiers with their
+families, employed as surveyors by Government.
+
+"On the day of his arrival a public meeting was held, at which the chief
+magistrate of the community presided, and the females played a not
+unimportant part. It was arranged that for a certain sum Captain Stewart
+should convey 60 of the Pitcairn Islanders to their old abode. A special
+motion for the purpose was put to the meeting with all due form, seconded,
+and reduced to writing on either side. At the same time it was
+imperatively ordered that all should be ready to embark on the fourth day
+thereafter, and as there is but one, and that not a very safe, anchorage
+off the whole coast of the island, the Captain stood off and on in its
+neighbourhood.
+
+"The eve of the fated fourth day found the delicate question still
+unsettled of who were to be the happy 60, so many had set their hearts on
+forming part of the expedition. A second meeting was convened, this time
+under the presidency of their chaplain, but the only result was to defer
+for one day the embarkation. During this entire period the poor people
+were in the utmost excitement. The place of embarkation was covered with
+the baggage of all who were desirous of returning to Pitcairn's Island;
+but, as in consequence of their original descent there have been such
+frequent intermarriages, and hence such close relationship, reminding one
+of the clans of Scotland, it was impossible to decide who was to go and
+who to remain. At length, on the expiry of the last day left them to
+decide, it was arranged that in the event of Captain Stewart proving
+unable to take off two entire families or clans (about 100 persons), only
+one should be taken to Pitcairn. The Captain hesitated at venturing on so
+long a voyage with such a number of souls in so small a vessel. He
+therefore took on board only 17 of the islanders, men, women, and
+children, whom he landed at Pitcairn Island, after a voyage of 42 days,
+amid tears of rapture at finding themselves on the well-remembered spot.
+The notifications they had attached to their doors on leaving had not
+entirely answered their expectations. During their absence several of the
+huts had been gutted, and a large number of the oxen had been carried off.
+However, it was not altogether malice or wanton destruction which had
+diverted to other purposes their cherished household gods. Shortly before
+their arrival, in a wild night of storms, the American clipper _Wild Wave_
+had been wrecked on a coral reef, not far from Pitcairn, and a part of the
+crew, having succeeded in reaching the island, were compelled to avail
+themselves of the building material, thus collected to hand for them, with
+which to construct a boat, in which, with true sailor-like hardihood, to
+face the winds and waves once more. For this purpose the church and some
+twenty huts came handy, while a plentiful stock of goats, sheep, and
+poultry were roaming at large about the island. A considerable quantity of
+valuable tropical fruit was hanging ripe upon the trees, and seemed only
+awaiting the return of the former owners to be plucked for use.
+
+"The baggage was speedily landed, and an unusual activity prevailed, with
+the view of getting housed as speedily as possible. It was plain these
+poor people had never expected again to get possession of a domain which
+they had abandoned through ignorance and misrepresentation. The reverent
+air with which they entered their huts and gazed around with keen
+scrutinizing glance to see if all had been left in its former state,
+showed with what love and veneration they clung to this gloomy possession
+of their progenitors, with all its melancholy traditions, which seemed to
+exercise over them a deeper attraction than the majestic ruins of a
+princely ancestral castle, with all its world-famous memories, sometimes
+does upon the youthful representative of its pristine glories.
+
+"The important part played by the women during the consultations held at
+Norfolk Island seemed anew to be claimed by the fair sex at Pitcairn, and
+Captain Stewart could not sufficiently wonder at the high social position
+they occupied in the little community. The ladies for their part made the
+most of this privilege, and their utmost efforts were directed towards
+justifying it by their activity in household matters."
+
+Such is the latest that is known as to the Pitcairn Islanders and their
+singular destiny. It is not at all improbable that the majority of their
+kindred will gradually find their way back to the original seat of their
+race, there to end their days.
+
+Making all allowance for their aptitude and their natural preferences,
+their innate timidity and lack of decision must leave a painful impression
+upon every impartial mind; but this prominent trait of character seems to
+have a deep-seated physiological basis. The "Mutiny of the _Bounty_" was
+followed by a natural reaction. The ever-present dread of discovery, which
+constantly haunted Christian and his criminal associates, and to their
+dying day deprived them of all tranquillity of mind, was transmitted, but
+in a milder form, to their descendants, and struck root in their bosoms in
+a feeling of dependence and excessive timidity, which prevented even their
+grand-children from attaining tranquillity, and from becoming not to say
+intellectual, but even useful, members of society. Will, courage,
+independence, seem for ever to have fled from the breast of the Pitcairn
+Islanders, who, on the other hand, have many virtues well calculated to
+excite our sympathies, and of whom especially the founder of this
+simple-minded community, the energetic, clear-sighted Adams, has, by his
+actions, proved anew the truthfulness of the saying, "Whoever has the
+power to WILL (a thing) can perform miracles!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Our voyage to the west coast of America was speedy, though rather stormy.
+Seldom were the heavens clear, and alternately with violent rains, we felt
+that discomfort arising from constant motion, the result of heavy seas and
+tremendous rolling, to which the voyager is so frequently exposed.
+
+On 4th April, at night, while shortening sail, owing to the violence of
+the wind and the threatening aspect of the weather, one of the crew was
+precipitated from the main-top-gallant-yard, a height of 125 feet above
+the deck. Being caught as he fell among the shrouds and rigging, he
+succeeded in catching hold of one, and so with diminished force fell into
+the main-top, a fall of 69 feet, upon which some of his comrades, going to
+his assistance, rescued him from further danger, when he was found to have
+suffered so little, that he returned to duty the following day!
+
+On the 11th, without any particularly heavy weather, the main-yard
+suddenly snapped in two. On a more minute investigation it was found that
+it had become greatly weakened by dry rot, so much so that it could no
+longer be used. It was fortunate this took place during ordinary weather,
+so that the two fragments could be lowered without much difficulty. In a
+high sea and heavy weather, such an accident is often attended by most
+lamentable results, for two pieces of timber, each above 40 feet in
+length, measuring 21 inches at the thickest, by 8 inches at the smallest
+diameter, and several thousand pounds in weight, can hardly come rattling
+down upon the hull of the ship without inflicting serious injury, and
+endangering the lives of numbers of men.
+
+As we had no spare main-yard, we had to sling a smaller one till our
+arrival at the nearest port, giving rather a singular appearance to the
+vessel, but without perceptibly affecting her speed.
+
+In 34° S. and 76° W., the temperature of the ocean was observed suddenly
+to fall 3°.1 Fahr., and we now, for a distance of about 200 nautical
+miles, were in what is known as Humboldt's current, which carried us
+towards N. by W. at a velocity of from half to three-quarters of a mile
+per hour. Our experience of this renowned current, so far at least as
+regards the season of the year, and the latitude and longitude in which it
+is fallen in with, are widely different from those statistics which
+represent it as sensibly felt at a distance of from 800 to 1000 miles off
+the W. coast of South America.
+
+On the 16th, the faint outline was visible of Aconcagua, the highest of
+the Chilean Andes, and a few hours later we made the lighthouse of
+Valparaiso. A light breeze with a heavy sea made it seem advisable not to
+run in during the night, the result of which was that on the following
+morning it was only by the efforts of some tow-boats dispatched to our
+assistance by the commander of H.B.M. ship of the line "_Ganges_," and the
+French corvette "_Eurydice_" that we were enabled, by 3.30 P.M., to reach
+Valparaiso in the midst of a profound calm, when our anchor was let go in
+25 fathoms, good holding ground, in an excellent roomy berth, away from
+the bustle of the merchantmen.
+
+The voyage from Tahiti, 5000 nautical miles, was accomplished in 48 days,
+and although a considerable portion must be marked as "lost," owing to our
+having steered for the zero point of magnetic declination, we yet arrived
+at our destination sooner than merchantmen which left Papeete before us,
+or in company, but had steered south of the Paomotu group.
+
+Mr. Flemmich, the Austrian Consul-general at Valparaiso, immediately sent
+our letters on board, but the regular packet, which we had expected to
+find here before us, had not come in, and the delay served to double the
+anxiety of all on board, in view of the political clouds that were
+hovering over our native land.
+
+
+                               FOOTNOTES:
+
+[60] The original spelling of the name of this island arose from ignorance
+of the language. To the question, "_Eaha tera fenúa?_" (What is the name
+of this island?) the natives replied, "_O Taïti Oia._" The article was
+thus taken for the first syllable and the island was called _O Taheite_.
+Since then the thorough knowledge we have acquired of the language has
+rectified the mistake. In Tahitian the two verbs "to be" and "to have" are
+altogether wanting. _O_ is simply the nominative of an article which very
+frequently is placed before a proper name to give it emphasis, or even for
+the sake of euphony. _O_ accordingly is used in the above sentence merely
+to imply "it is." A literal translation from Tahitian into any European
+language is in most cases impossible. Occasionally one finds Tahiti
+mentioned by the names of _La Sagittaria_, _King George the Third's
+Island_, _Nouvelle Cythère_, and _Amat_.
+
+[61] The derivation of the name Pomáre, which has since become that of the
+Tahitian dynasty, is purely accidental. The father of Otu was once
+travelling among the mountains, and had to camp out in the open air. The
+bad weather gave him a violent cold with hoarseness, which induced one of
+his companions to name the night spent in such discomfort _Po-mare_, i. e.
+a night (po) of cough (mare). The chieftain so acutely felt the pertinency
+of this name that he adopted it as his _own_ name.--(Vide _Ellis,
+Polynesian Researches_, vol. ii. p. 70.)
+
+[62] These four missionaries were named Chrysostome Liansu, François
+d'Assis Caret, Honoré Laval, and Columban Murphy, an Irish catechist.
+
+[63] Vide Annales de la Propagation de la Foi, No. xli. p. 31.
+
+[64] "It is not surprising," he writes in a letter to his superiors, "that
+on the arrival in this country, so long given over to the evil spirit of a
+child of the _Sacré c[oe]ur_ (Divine heart), that enemy of all which is
+good should have raged with redoubled fury, and that the Protestant
+emissaries should have believed I came to overthrow their empire!!"--Vide
+_Annales de la Propagation de la Foi_, No. lvi. p. 204.
+
+[65] "I am," wrote Queen Pomáre, to the then King Louis Philippe, "only
+the ruler of a small, insignificant island. May wisdom, renown, and power
+ever attend your Majesty! Cease then your anger, and pardon the error I
+have committed."
+
+[66] This additional article ran as follows: "The free exercise of the
+Catholic religion is permitted in the Island of Tahiti, and in all the
+other possessions of Queen Pomáre. The French Catholics shall enjoy all
+the privileges accorded to the Protestants, _but they shall nevertheless
+not be entitled to meddle, under any pretext, in the religious affairs of
+the country_. Done at Tahiti, 20th June, 1839."
+
+[67] These two letters are dated, "Waiáu, on the Island of Raiatea, 24th
+Sept. 1844," whither Queen Pomáre had withdrawn after the events of
+November, 1843, and whence she only returned to Tahiti in 1847.
+
+[68] According to the laws of the country, each married resident
+contributes one franc per annum to the civil list; a widower with one
+child, one franc; a widower without children, two francs; an unmarried
+adult, two francs; an adult female unmarried, one franc; boys under
+sixteen, and girls under fourteen, as also criminals and persons
+incapacitated for labour, pay nothing. This is the only direct tax the
+inhabitants are called upon to pay. The revenues of the island do not,
+however, suffice to defray the expenses of the French occupation. Before
+the arrival of the Europeans the Tahitians had no description of currency,
+but had recourse in all business transactions to barter. The Protestant
+missionaries were the first to introduce about £2000 of copper money,
+which they had got struck in England for the purpose. This currency was
+based upon a coin of the value of one half-penny. On one side was a ship,
+and on the obverse the words "COPPER PREFERABLE TO PAPER." When the French
+came to the island they flung this money into the sea, and forbade their
+circulation under heavy penalties! At present the only coins used are
+francs and _réra_ (about one-third of a franc=3-1/4_d._ nearly).
+
+[69] This State paper is couched in very brief and intelligible terms in
+both French and Tahitian, and runs as follows:--
+
+"Her Majesty, the Queen of the Society Islands, and H.E. the Governor of
+the French possessions in Eastern Oceania:--
+
+"1st. Considering that there are no 'projets de loi' (Bills) to be
+submitted for legislative enactment during 1859, and that assembly has
+further no budget to vote;
+
+"2nd. Considering moreover the considerable expenses to which the members
+of the said assembly are put for their sojourn at Papeete during its
+session;
+
+"3rd. Considering Article 7 of the Ordinance of 28th April, 1847;
+
+"Decide,--
+
+"The Legislative Assembly of the States of the Protectorate will not meet
+in session during the year 1859. Papeete, 10th February, 1859.
+
+                                             (Signed)       "Saisset."
+
+A similar notification drawn up in Tahitian, is countersigned by Queen
+Pomáre. One Tahitian, who was a member of the Legislative Assembly,
+remarked to us, after reading the foregoing announcement in the _Moniteur
+Tahitian_, "How then can any one say beforehand whether or no there are no
+important questions to discuss?"
+
+[70] M. Adam Kulczycki, who was at that period entrusted with the
+management of native affairs, and is an accomplished Tahitian scholar,
+besides occupying himself with astronomical and meteorological
+observations, and geological investigations, has been for seventeen years
+in the French service, and, a Pole by birth, served not without
+distinction in the struggles of his native land for liberty.
+
+[71] "_O Taïti (Tahiti), par G. Cuzent, Pharmacien de la Marine, &c. &c.
+Paris, Librairie de Victor Masson, 1861._" It is a most valuable book, the
+result for the most part of personal examination and illustration, and
+arranged with much care and method.
+
+[72] _Canaka_, in the Tahitian dialect, as in that of the Sandwich
+Islands, is equivalent to MAN.
+
+[73] At one service which we attended in Mr. Howe's chapel there were
+fifty "communicants" present; a pupil of the missionary played the organ.
+The Queen, too, and her family, who are strongly attached to the services
+of the Evangelical Church, are frequently present at these Sunday
+gatherings.
+
+[74] Several of the girls who live in Mr. Howe's family are Catholics,
+whose parents prefer they should be educated in a Protestant school rather
+than not at all.
+
+[75] The cost of the Catholic missions in Eastern Oceania amounts on the
+average to frs. 100,000 (£4000) per annum. "The Society for the
+Propagation of the Faith" (French) subscribes annually from frs. 3,000,000
+to 4,000,000 (£120,000 to £160,000) for the races of heathendom. Of this
+Oceania and Australia get from frs. 400,000 to frs. 500,000 (£16,000 to
+£20,000).
+
+[76] With reference to this, the following remarks are especially
+noteworthy, made by M. Guizot at a time when France still possessed a
+tribune and a parliament: "What particularly strikes me is that our
+missionaries do not make new conquests for a Church already powerful; that
+they do not extend the sphere of supremacy of the ecclesiastical
+government. The Roman Catholic missionary arrives alone, ignorant of the
+actual state of affairs, having none of the affections common to
+humanity--in a word, better fitted to acquire an ascendant than to enlist
+sympathy. The Protestant ministers are, on the contrary, family missions,
+so to speak; so that a pagan population will more readily be led to regard
+as brothers men who are husbands and fathers like themselves. Thus these
+missions instruct by presenting specimens of Christian society side by
+side with precepts of faith; the example of all the relations and
+sentiments of domestic life, regulated according to the morality of the
+Gospel they are sent to teach; a mode of instruction most assuredly not
+the least efficacious, if not absolutely perfect." (Discours de M. Guizot
+dans l'Assemblée Générale, du 11 Avril, 1826.)
+
+[77] In the "_Lois Revisées dans l'Assemblée Législative au mois de Mars
+de l'année 1848, pour la conduite de tous, sous le gouvernement du
+Protectorat dans les terres de la Société_," is the following stringent
+passage, "The dance, known as Upa-Upa, is interdicted in the islands under
+the Protectorate. On fête days and public festivals dancing is permitted,
+but no indecent gestures will be tolerated." The Upa-Upa dates from the
+period when the secret society of the Arréois, whose chief tenets were
+drinking feasts, polygamy, and infanticide, existed over the greater part
+of the islands of the Pacific. Moerenhout, in his "_Voyages aux íles du
+grand Océan_" (Paris, 1837, vol. i. p. 484), gives a very complete account
+of this singular society, which has since entirely disappeared before the
+zeal of Protestant missionaries.
+
+[78] Experiments have also been made quite recently with coffee, which the
+Government likewise fosters. The largest plantation is the property of a
+Frenchman named Bonnefin, who, in 1859, grew as much as 8000 lbs. The high
+price of labour, however, renders its production so dear that Tahitian
+coffee costs 100 fr. (£4) the centum (100 lbs), or about ten pence the
+pound, on the spot, whereas the best Costa Rica coffee costs only from £2
+to £2 8_s._ the centum, or five pence to six pence the pound. The
+Protectorate officials hope to supply this very perceptible lack of labour
+by introducing into Tahiti, as field workers, the prisoners of war they
+take in New Caledonia.
+
+[79] Mr. Wilson, a missionary, estimated the population of Tahiti in 1797
+at 16,000 souls. In 1848, when the French administration took its first
+census, the native population amounted to 8082 (viz. 4466 males, 3616
+females), the number of Europeans being 475 (428 males and 47 females). In
+1858 it had fallen to 5988, or 2580 fewer than it had been 30 years before
+(1829), when, according to a census taken by the English missionaries, the
+population of Tahiti was 8568 of both sexes and all ages.
+
+[80] Among the splendid specimens of the forest flora of Tahiti we
+remarked, in addition to the cocoa-nut palm, the bread-fruit tree and
+Pandanus, of which we shall presently speak more at length, on account of
+their economic, industrial, and therapeutic qualities. The _Calophyllum
+Inophyllum_ (Ati), _Inocarpus edulis_ (Masse), _Aleurites triloba_
+(Tu-tui), _Rhus Taïtense_ (Apape), _Ficus tinctoria_ (Máti), _Ficus
+prolixa_(Ora), _Gleichenia Hermanni_ (Eanúhe), _Hibiscus tiliaceus_ (Puráu
+or Fáo), _Lagenaria vulgaris_ (Hue), _Pisonia inermis_ (Puna tehea),
+_Spondias dulcis_ (Bri), _Arundo Bambus_ (Ofé), _Tanghinia Maughas_
+(Ruva), _Morinda citrifolia_ (Nono), _Guettenda speciosa_ (Tafano), _Boxa
+Orellana_, &c. &c.
+
+[81] According to Kulczycki's measurements the lake lies 430 metres (1401
+feet) above the sea, and is 400 metres (1304 feet) in circumference, while
+the precipitous peaks around are 1800 metres (5865 feet) above sea-level.
+
+[82] According to the laws of Tahiti, whenever the entire male descendants
+of a chief have become extinct, his eldest female offspring becomes chief
+of the district, sits as such in the legislative assembly, and has a voice
+in the administration of justice. At present there are five
+chieftainesses, who are members of the Tahitian parliament. Their husbands
+have no political influence whatever, except as the husbands of these
+ladies!
+
+[83] _Carabus_ (Anglicé Calaboose) is a corruption of the Spanish word
+_Calabozo_, a prison. The _Carabus_ of Papeete is a sort of pound in which
+drunken people or mischievous vagabonds are confined, and whence they are
+released on payment of 5 or 10 francs. These mulcts or convictions form a
+not unimportant source of revenue, and are of twofold demoralizing
+operation; for while it is the interest of the police on the one hand to
+make as many arrests as possible, so as to insure a larger sum for
+division, the wretched, sensual Tahitian girls find in the prosecution of
+the filthy trade that has brought them within the clutch of the police the
+best means of procuring their release!
+
+[84] Queen Pomáre finds herself entirely dependent upon the French
+Protectorate. On the slightest symptom of asserting her position she is
+met by a stoppage of her allowance, and as, in consequence of the rather
+opulent mode of life adopted by the generous-hearted lady, the incomings
+and outgoings are apt not to square, her pecuniary straits are not
+infrequently made use of for political purposes.
+
+[85] Obviously a corruption of the French "mouton," the popular name for a
+spy.
+
+[86] Of this expensive fruit, which grows in large quantities on the
+island, and only needs to be gathered, there are exported annually some
+five or six ship-loads, worth about fr. 200,000 (£8000), all which find
+their way to California, where 1000 oranges are worth from $40 to $60 (£8
+8_s._ to £12 12_s._), whereas, a similar quantity is worth in Tahiti at
+the outside £1 to £1 4_s._
+
+[87] Besides the cocoa-nut oil and arrow-root, which are at present
+exported from Tahiti and constitute its chief trade, the produce of the
+neighbouring islands might be conveniently passed through Tahiti. The
+pearl oysters (_Meleagrina Margaretifera_), which are usually dredged for
+in the months of January, February, March, and April, come chiefly from
+the Paomotu and Gambier groups. The latter-named group, however, only
+sends about 500 tons of these annually, worth about fr. 500 to fr. 600
+(£20 to £24) per ton. In the year 1859, the entire importation of these
+was contracted for by a merchant of Papeete at $140 (£29 10_s._) per ton.
+The natives of Gambier, accustomed to dive, use to bring up the pearl
+oysters from a depth of from 150 to 180 feet.
+
+[88] On the island of Eimeo, or Morea, lying off Tahiti, the area of which
+is 13,237 hectares, there is a table-land about the centre of the island,
+surrounded by a semi-circular range of lofty precipices, which would be
+found thoroughly fit for cattle pasture. The cultivation of the grape and
+of European vegetables might also be profitably undertaken.
+
+[89] Here also we encountered this useful plant, which was first
+introduced into Tahiti in 1851, by means of seeds from Paris. Of these
+twenty-five were sown, which within three months gave a sufficient return
+of seed to admit of the cultivation of the sorgho being extended through a
+number of districts. One year later, the crop amounted already to about
+2100 kilogrammes (4900 lbs., or two tons and a quarter), which were
+disposed of at 1-1/2d. per kilogramme (somewhat under a penny per lb.).
+
+[90] A gallon of cocoa-nut oil is worth, by way of barter for goods, about
+one franc and a half, and for specie one franc. The adjoining islands
+abound in cocoa-nuts, Anaa, one of the Paomotu group, being capable of
+delivering from 300 to 400 tons of oil per annum.
+
+[91] The fermented juice of the orange, the pine-apple, the _pandanus_
+fruit, the _spondias dulcis_, and the wild bananas, were also used in
+former times for the preparation of intoxicants. Since the introduction of
+European spirits, the natives discriminate all foreign drinks as
+_Ava-papáa_, their own being named _Ava-maóhi_.
+
+[92] Before the arrival on the island of the Europeans, Tahitian society
+was divided into three classes: viz. Arii, or chiefs; Raatira, or
+land-holders, of whom the most distinguished in each district were called
+Tataui; and, lastly, Manahune, or Tenantry at will. To the latter class
+belonged all prisoners of war. Between the Arii and Raatira there was a
+middle class, the Eiétoaï, corresponding to the European title of
+Honourable. Latterly the name _Tacana_ has come into almost universal use
+for the Arii, being in fact nothing but a corruption of the English word
+"Governor."
+
+[93] These calculations are merely approximative. The Custom House at
+Papeete has sufficient documents, but it keeps them secret, apparently for
+political reasons, if we may credit the remark of a Tahitian. "It is not
+wished to let all the world know that we are _not_ in a prosperous state."
+
+[94] Letter concerning the actual state of the island of Tahiti, addressed
+to H.M. the Emperor Napoleon III., by Alexander Salmon. London, Effingham
+Wilson, 1858.
+
+[95] The French garrison in Tahiti and Eimeo (Morea), including the
+administrative officials, numbers about 400 men. The Governor receives,
+besides extras, £1200 pay; the _Commandant particulier_ draws other £800,
+in addition to which both these officers draw _allowances_ as officers in
+the Imperial navy (13_s._ 4_d._ to £1 per diem.)
+
+[96] We had an opportunity while at Papeete of obtaining some particulars
+of this renowned French penal settlement from the mouth of a person whom
+no one will be likely to accuse of exaggeration. M. de la Richerie, who,
+while we were at Papeete, filled the position of Imperial commissary, and
+is the present Governor of Tahiti, was for four years (1854-57) director
+of the penal settlement at Cayenne. During the period of his authority the
+entire population consisted of from 5000 to 6000 prisoners, 1500 garrison,
+200 free settlers, and from 16,000 to 18,000 negroes. The expense of
+keeping on foot this small colony was not less than from £160,000 to
+£200,000. The mortality among all classes, free as well as prisoners, was
+perfectly appalling, averaging from 28 to 33 per cent.!! Of 6000
+prisoners, 2000 died in one year; out of 36 medical men, 18 died in the
+discharge of their duties. The number of fever-stricken in the hospital
+was never less than from 500 to 600!! The director once entered an
+apartment in which above 250 of the unfortunate political criminals lay on
+their sick beds. He inquired of the physician in attendance how long they
+were likely to live? Possibly a year, was the reply. "_Dépêchez-vous
+donc_," said the director, as he turned from the unhappy wretches, who had
+no resource except the hospital, and, sick in mind and body, longed
+earnestly for the day which should see their wretched couches vacated for
+the calm tranquillity of death. M. de la Richerie was of opinion that no
+political convict lives more than four or five years in Cayenne, and that
+even the free settler cannot withstand the deadly influence of the climate
+above ten years. But the government founded on the 2nd December gives
+itself little concern. The utility of the system of deportation has been
+fully understood, and is unsparingly carried out. The time seems to be at
+hand when all Frenchmen who venture to challenge the Napoleonic ideas,
+will be banished their native country, nay, exiled from Europe.
+
+[97] Shortly after his arrival in Valparaiso, Longomasino went to Serena,
+a city in Chili of 20,000 inhabitants, near some rich copper-mines, where
+he occupied himself with editing a newspaper in Spanish.
+
+[98] Chart of curves of equal magnetic variations, 1858, by Frederick
+Evans, Master, R.N.
+
+[99] This colic stuck to the ship for nearly eight months, and out of 36
+cases, the shortest time it took to run its course was nine days, the
+longest 94.
+
+[100] One main source of anxiety, which determined Adams to request the
+good offices of the British Government, was the scanty supply of
+drinking-water. There was at this time only one available spring of fresh
+water, and this supply was so small that two quarts of water were all that
+each family could be allowed during the day.
+
+
+                        [Illustration: The Lasso]
+
+
+
+
+                                  XXI.
+
+                              Valparaiso.
+
+                Stay from 17th April to 11th May, 1859.
+
+    Importance of Chile for German emigration.--First impressions of
+    Valparaiso.--Stroll through the city.--Commercial relations of
+    Chile with Australia and California.--Quebrada de Juan Gomez.--
+    The roadstead.--The Old Quarter and Fort Rosario.--Cerro Algre.--
+    Fire Companies.--Abadie's nursery-garden.--Campo Santo.--The
+    German community and its club.--A compatriot festival in honour
+    of the _Novara_.--Journey to Santiago de Chile.--University.--
+    National Museum.--Observatory.--Industrial and agricultural
+    schools.--Professor Don Ignacio Domey Ko.--Audience of the
+    President of the Republic.--Don Manuel Montt and his political
+    opponents.--Family life in Santiago.--Excursion trip on the
+    southern railroad.--Maipú Bridge.--Melepilla.--The Hacienda of
+    Las Esmeraldas.--Chilean hospitality.--Return to Valparaiso.--
+    Quillota.--The German colony in Valdivia.--Colonization in the
+    Straits of Magellan.--Ball at the Austrian Consul-general's in
+    honour of the _Novara_.--Extraordinary voyage of a damaged
+    ship.--Departure of the _Novara_.--Voyage round Cape Horn.--The
+    Falkland Islands.--The French corvette _Eurydice_.--The Sargasso
+    sea.--Encounter with a merchant-ship in the open ocean.--Hopes
+    disappointed and curiosity excited.--Passage through the Azores
+    channel.--A vexatious calm.
+
+
+The free State of Chile enjoys a higher degree of tranquillity than any of
+the former Spanish dependencies of South America, and in climate, in
+fertility, and in liberal institutions, transcends all others in affording
+the European emigrant the best prospects of a prosperous future.
+
+Chile possesses a constitution which many a European state might envy, the
+civil freedom, which forms the basis of all laws, and just now is so
+eagerly debated and investigated in some parts of Europe, having been in
+practical operation here for upwards of a quarter of a century, during
+which it has materially contributed to develope the resources of the
+country and the prosperity of its inhabitants. Owing to the disturbed
+state of the American Confederation, hitherto the El Dorado of European
+emigration, countries such as Chile, of an extent similar to that of
+England and Greece together, and with a population barely exceeding one
+million of men, possess the very highest attraction. True, at the period
+of our visit the long-enjoyed political tranquillity was for a while
+disturbed by a revolutionary convulsion, but it has cost neither time nor
+trouble to suppress it, upon which the leaders, more ambitious than
+patriotic, took to flight, and public order and safety were reinstated
+upon the broad basis of a constitution, which was wisely drawn up so as to
+admit of keeping pace with the times.
+
+We beheld Chile under anything but its normal favourable aspect; many of
+the leading families of the country had been plunged by political troubles
+into grief and mourning; trade was falling off; the ordinary buoyant
+disposition of the Chileno had given place to painful anxiety; yet all we
+heard and saw during our stay at so unpropitious a period, only served to
+strengthen our conviction that a great and splendid future awaits this
+delightful country.
+
+He who merely lands at a seaport such as Valparaiso, and wanders through
+its lengthy but elegant streets, carries away with him no just conception
+of Chile and the life of the country beyond the Andes. Everything about
+the town, houses, shops, and population, has quite a European aspect, so
+that the stranger walking through some of the streets with their lofty
+grey edifices, gay signs, and large and splendid magazines, abounding in
+everything that can minister to human luxury, might readily fancy himself
+transported to some northern European capital. Nothing is here to tell of
+its being the native country of the Araucanian, nothing recalls that
+singular national aboriginal type, and it is only when contemplating the
+majestic forms of the surrounding landscape that he can realize that he is
+actually in the proximity of Andes, "giant of the Western Star."
+
+One of our first walks through the city, the buildings of which extend,
+row after row, for a considerable distance along the bay, and surmount the
+hillocks (_Quebradas_) which rise at a short distance from the shore,
+brought us to the _Aduana_, or Custom-house, one of the most extensive,
+beautiful, and commodious buildings in the city, which, commenced in 1850
+by a Frenchman, was finished six years later by an American, named John
+Brown. The ground on which the various buildings are erected was quite
+recently gained from the sea by embankment, as was also done in the case
+of the existing _Plaza de Armas_, and the wide and graceful _Calle de
+Planchada_, both which sites were under water less than twenty years
+since!
+
+The Custom-house buildings, including the vast solid warehouses, cost the
+State more than 1,000,000 Spanish piastres (£210,000), but form the finest
+and most convenient edifice of the kind throughout South America. An
+enormous quantity of the most valuable merchandise, which used to be
+scattered about among private houses or disposed of, are now stored in
+large, dry, well-lighted apartments, and can without much trouble or delay
+be got at and taken away. About 200 officials are at work in spacious
+offices registering the trade of the State, which is in a very flourishing
+state, owing to the immense importation of the most various foreign
+fabrics, paid for in a not less extensive export of Chilean products,
+chiefly corn and precious metals. The start taken by the country in
+commerce and agriculture, as also the development of its natural
+resources, dates from the period of the discovery of the Californian
+gold-fields. Chile, so admirably suited for agriculture, very speedily
+became the granary of the gold-country, and set about making the most of
+its manifold advantages. Wheat, barley, beans, increased so much in value,
+that many fields which, on account of comparative poverty, had been
+suffered to lie fallow hitherto, now got under cultivation, and the former
+scanty means of the majority of the proprietors of the soil was at once
+exchanged for unexampled prosperity. The influx of specie did not fail to
+stimulate activity in every other occupation as well, and was mainly
+instrumental in working the mines more systematically, and thus making
+them more productive than hitherto.
+
+The exportation to California speedily increased ten-fold, and within two
+years had increased nearly 2,500,000 piastres (£525,000).
+
+When the gold fever had a few years later abated somewhat in California,
+and the settlers there began to grow grain for themselves, the Chilean
+exports thither dwindled away, till, about 1857, they had sunk to a
+minimum hardly worth mentioning. But meanwhile a second, though rather
+more distant, market was found for Chilean exports, by the discovery of
+not less productive gold-fields in Australia, the imports into which from
+Valparaiso, despite the enormous distance, proved so immensely
+remunerative that the ventures of former years to California were quite
+eclipsed.[101]
+
+Leaving the Custom-house buildings, we climbed up the Quebrada de Juan
+Gomez, one of the numerous narrow valleys or clefts which, spangled on
+both acclivities with villas, usually thatched with shingle, impart to the
+environs of Valparaiso so peculiar an appearance. The most extraordinary
+of these is the _Cerro de Carretas_, a hill from 200 to 300 feet high, to
+the slopes of which cling a variety of filthy wicker huts of the poorest
+sort, which, regarded from a distance, have a picturesque effect. On a
+closer inspection, however, they exhibit utter destitution and degraded
+poverty. At the highest point of the steep Quebrada de Juan Gomez are some
+fortified lines recently thrown up, together with the artillery barracks
+(_Cuartel de Artilleria_), with accommodation for 800 men. The Chilean
+troops are pretty well equipped, but have a by no means imposing air; they
+appear to be patient and persevering, fit for encountering great
+privations and overcoming obstacles, rather than courageous, or eager for
+the fray. There is, in short, a total absence of "dash" about them. From
+the barracks one enjoys a magnificent view over the city and the environs,
+hemmed in on all hands by the ocean. The roadstead greatly resembles that
+of Trieste, and, like the latter, suffers much from N.W. winds. The
+merchantmen lie at anchor in pretty regular order, with the double object
+that, in case of a sudden "norther," they may not suffer from ships
+dragging their anchors, and may be able at once to make sail if necessary.
+
+Although at the commencement of the winter season (May to October) of the
+southern hemisphere, when frequent storms from north and north-west make
+the roads of Valparaiso, if not dangerous, at least hazardous, the
+majority of sailing vessels make for other better-sheltered harbours along
+the west coast, yet there were still about 180 vessels of all sizes and
+every flag lying at anchor off the town. The most unpleasant and severe
+months are June and July, although it is at that period less the violence
+of the gales than the tremendous sea, which occasionally hurls a ship, if
+not properly made fast, into a position of danger, and occasionally
+interrupts all communication with the shore for days together. A season
+sometimes passes over, however, without the occurrence of any elemental
+strife. It would be of the highest interest to be able to ascertain the
+periodicity of the return of severe winters, which there can be little
+doubt obeys some natural law.
+
+The barometer is, at Valparaiso, a pretty correct index of the wind that
+may be expected. The more the mercury sinks, the more perceptible will be
+the N. or N.W. wind. Rain and foggy weather usually precede these winds,
+and continue till the wind draws somewhat to the west, upon which the
+mercury rises and the weather improves. North or north-west winds are,
+however, as a rule never of long continuance, and indeed frequently
+continue only a few hours, because so soon as the first burst is over, the
+trade-wind, upon whose limits it has encroached, soon begins to drive it
+before it, under the influence of an air-wave from the southward, and
+ships which, with the view of suffering as little as possible from north
+or north-west winds, keep as far from the lighthouse as possible, have
+nothing to dread from even a heavy "norther," if all proper precautions
+are taken, and their anchors and cables hold.[102]
+
+In the harbour were the screw steamers _Maipú_ and _Esmeralda_, and the
+paddle screw steamer _Maule_, belonging to the very insignificant navy of
+the Chilean Republic. From the barracks we passed up several Quebradas to
+the ancient "Cuartel" and Fort Rosario, two buildings remarkable enough in
+their way, the erection of which dates back to an early age, as they in
+fact belong to the period when Valparaiso had only 400 population, and was
+part of the assize-circuit of Casa Blanca. The latter, however, which we
+pass on the road to Santiago, is still an insignificant settlement, while
+Valparaiso has become the wealthiest and most important commercial
+emporium along the whole west coast of South America, and boasts a
+population of above 60,000 souls. There are also in this vicinage numbers
+of small filthy one-storeyed huts or _ranchos_ built of cane, which seem
+as though hanging to the acclivities, and are not intended to last any
+time. As it rarely rains at Valparaiso, and then but little, and the
+temperature being tolerably mild throughout the year, the poor have little
+occasion to provide themselves shelter against cold or boisterous weather,
+or to build strong and solid habitations. Moreover, there is perceptible
+among the Chilean populace, as among all other Spanish Americans, an
+innate trait of character, in the shape of indolence and indisposition to
+labour, as they usually strike work for the day as soon as they have
+earned enough for the daily necessaries of life, which they can supply for
+a trifle. Nay, we are told that it is by no means unusual for
+day-labourers, as soon as they have earned their day's wage for their
+principal want, to reply in an indifferent tone to the offer of farther
+work, "Tengo mis dos reals" (I have my two reals)![103]
+
+Not all the Quebradas, however, round Valparaiso are infested with
+wretched huts; some are occupied by tasteful and comfortable residences,
+especially the Cerro Algre, where at present a considerable number of
+Germans reside, and which is conspicuous for the number of elegant little
+villas, as also by the cordiality and hospitality there lavished upon
+strangers. Cerro Algre is one of the most charming, delightful, and
+salubrious spots in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, with a magnificent
+panorama, although not so fashionable a resort as the Almendral, which,
+since the recent appalling conflagration of 1858, reducing within a few
+hours the finest portion of the city to ashes, has been rebuilt with
+numbers of handsome edifices, and has at the same time been widened and
+extended.
+
+The frequency of fires, and the totally inadequate means and appliances
+for their extinction at the disposal of the authorities, led to a number
+of foreigners settled in Valparaiso organizing a Fire-brigade
+(_Pomperos_), in which the _élite_ of the community shortly after were
+enrolled. The founders and first company were the English, after whom came
+the Germans, French, Spaniards, Italians, and lastly the Chilenos
+following suit. A hook and ladder company, consisting of English, Germans,
+and North Americans, was set on foot in 1850. All the arrangements are
+modelled after the Fire Companies of the United States. The engines were
+imported from New York, and cost over £800 a piece. The French displayed
+the greatest luxury in the splendid uniforms of their company and the
+elegant fittings of their very beautiful engine; the Germans, on the other
+hand--not always the case with them--show but a very simple attirement,
+but are behind no other nation in the zeal and courage with which their
+fire company performs its self-imposed duties.
+
+Valparaiso is sadly deficient in suitable promenades, and consequently
+strangers must not be surprised, should they be invited to take a walk to
+the Cemetery (_Campo Santo_), in order to promenade there among cypress
+alleys, and pretentious-looking memorials of the departed.
+
+The Campo Santo is situated on one of the rising grounds behind the city,
+and with its clumps of trees and flower-plots, looks in fact much more
+like a promenade-garden than a grave-yard. Each Catholic fraternity
+(_hermandad_) has its own place assigned it for interment of the dead.
+Beautiful and costly monuments are raised over some of the recent graves,
+like so many testimonies in marble of the influence exercised even upon
+the resting-places of the dead, by the accumulated wealth of the last
+twenty years. Close beside the Catholic cemetery is that of the
+Protestants, which, like the other, is neatly laid out and kept in
+excellent order, but on the whole impresses the visitor less by the
+splendour of the monuments and the elegance of the inscriptions, than by
+its air of solemn simplicity.
+
+Not far from the spot where repose their dead is the place of worship of
+the Protestant community, a slight but neatly-finished edifice of wood,
+somewhat like the "chapels" of the English colonies. This is a pleasing
+evidence of the tolerant spirit of the Chilean Government, in strong
+contrast with most other Catholic states in South America, where religious
+intolerance of heterodoxy goes the length of prohibiting all public
+profession of their faith.
+
+Valparaiso is as badly off for fine open squares and monumental erections
+as for promenades. The Government Square, with its neat Exchange, and
+Victoria Square, with its Theatre, are neither by their antiquity, nor
+their general appearance, calculated to make any impression upon the
+traveller. There is great need of large, good hotels upon the European
+plan; and as there are no cheerful, comfortable cafés, to serve as a
+rallying-point for the male sex after the business of the day is over, the
+traveller is usually dependent for society upon being introduced at the
+different clubs, founded by the various nationalities. Of these the German
+was the finest; but, in consequence of their beautiful, spacious club
+having fallen a sacrifice to the recent conflagration, the members had to
+seek temporary accommodation in rather confined apartments, which greatly
+hampered their desire to show all due honour to our Expedition. Not less
+cordial, however, was our reception, nor the warm interest taken by the
+entire German community of Valparaiso in the scientific attainments of
+certain of its members.[104] Nowhere did the old German hospitality shine
+forth with more serene lustre than among the Germans of Chile, nowhere is
+there a more splendid manifestation of the vigorous intellectual life of
+the good old stock, nowhere a more thorough expression of German unity in
+foreign countries! Exercising a powerful influence in society, as
+merchants, physicians, professors, naturalists, astronomers, chemists,
+engineers, architects, &c., the activity of the German in Chile in every
+avocation of life has not been without a permanent influence on the
+destinies of this free State, and has already left in its institutions
+many a trace of German origin.
+
+One of our most pleasing reminiscences is undoubtedly that of the
+magnificent natural fête got up by the German residents of Valparaiso in
+honour of the _Novara_ one heavenly Easter morning, which came off at the
+beautiful Quebradas of Quilpué, about twelve miles from the port. Quilpué
+is a station on the railroad which runs from Valparaiso into the
+interior, and is intended to form the communication between it and
+Santiago de Chile, 110 miles distant, but of which at present only the
+first 40 miles have been completed.
+
+A special train, its locomotive neatly decorated with garlands of flowers
+and banneroles, conveyed the guests, 150 in number, to Quilpué. From this
+station the joyous party marched with the German flag at the head to one
+of the neighbouring dells, which seemed intended by nature to serve as the
+site of pic-nics in the open air. Here, under a number of spacious and
+elegant tents, we found long tables set out, which a cloud of waiters and
+cooks seemed engaged in loading with every delicacy that could tempt the
+palate.
+
+The company wandered through the adjoining glades, or lay stretched out in
+the shade, in a delicious ecstasy of music and song. The alarm of war,
+which at the moment was booming through Europe, had found its way even to
+the foot of the Chilean Andes, and imparted to the festival a political
+feeling. Although the then state of political matters in Austria was by no
+means such as to fill the mind with enthusiasm for it, yet all the
+feelings of the German of Valparaiso were enlisted on the side of Austria
+in her struggle with France; less out of sympathy with her policy as then
+displayed than out of hatred of Napoleonic assumption.
+
+Thus, in some of the after-dinner speeches which followed in due course,
+as well as in the inspiring songs with which the entertainment was
+enlivened, there was free expression given to this sentiment. A Bavarian
+physician and pharmaceutist, Dr. Aquinas Ried, whose house we found one
+of the most pleasant points of cordial re-union for the members of the
+Expedition, had composed a chorus for male voices, called "Welcome to the
+_Novara_," which he led himself with some of the members of the German
+Choral Union, the closing strophe of which,
+
+    "Sei einig nur Germania,
+    So stehest du auch einzig da,
+          Das grosse Vaterland!"
+
+was received with enthusiastic applause, and was greeted with deafening
+cheers.
+
+This widely-expressed sympathy for German nationality found expression in
+various other ways, not the least conspicuous being the marked courtesy to
+the Expedition manifested by the natives of Chile itself, and in an
+especial degree at Santiago, the capital, where public officers,
+naturalists, and lovers of science vied with each other in welcoming such
+of our number as went over to spend a few days there, and in aiding them
+to carry out the object they had in view.
+
+With these scientific aims were united others of a political nature, our
+Commodore having been honoured with H.I. Majesty's commands to enter into
+a commercial treaty with the free Republic of Chile. For this purpose
+Commodore von Wüllerstorf had gone to Santiago in company with the
+Austrian Consul-General, M. J. F. Flemmich, and the author of this
+narrative, the two geologists and the draughtsman of the Expedition having
+set out thither some days before.
+
+The journey to the capital of Chile is not among the most inviting. There
+are numerous crests of mountains (_questas_) to be crossed _en route_,
+which at many points are steep, not to speak of the bad construction of
+the roads, and the little care taken to keep them in order. Frequently the
+carriage rolls along the very verge of a profound abyss; the soil seems
+about to give way, gravel and stones plunge thundering down, while neither
+wall nor wooden railing intervenes to prevent the traveller from following
+them. Moreover, the vehicles in ordinary use are not calculated to
+diminish the perils of such a journey, especially if it is an object to
+arrive speedily at one's destination, when the regular national coach, the
+Birloche, as it is called, must be used. It is a sort of double-seated
+two-wheeled cabriolet drawn by two horses, while five or six horses trot
+alongside, which furnish the change of horses when required. The driver
+rides one of the horses, as in Havannah, and is wonderfully skilful in his
+way. He usually wears the national brown-covered _poncho_ (a quadrangular
+piece of cloth with an opening in the centre through which the head
+passes), a small straw hat, linen pants, and on his bare feet enormous,
+heavy spurs, sometimes fastened by a piece of leather, sometimes with a
+mere cord.
+
+We pushed forward without stoppage as far as Casa Blanca, one of the most
+ancient settlements of Chile, which, however, as previously remarked, has
+always preserved its village-like aspect. Here we fell in with several
+very handsome ladies, elegantly dressed, each sporting a gigantic
+crinoline. They had come from the neighbouring _haciendas_ to Casa Blanca
+to be present at a race-meeting. Having dispatched a hasty meal, we pushed
+busily forwards, and reached the village of Curacavi, where travellers to
+the capital usually pass the night. No great provision is made here in the
+shape of good inns, for considerable as is the traffic of loaded waggons,
+conveying merchandise and produce, the number of travellers is very
+limited, and even the few whom business or pleasure induces to visit the
+capital are for the most part natives of the country, or Europeans long
+resident, who usually take up their quarters with acquaintances or
+business connections, and are therefore exempt from all necessity to look
+after their comfort. Travellers who spend the night in such inns generally
+carry with them insect-powder, as the number of fleas and other
+troublesome insects is legion!!
+
+At the capital, Santiago, the traveller is somewhat better off as regards
+houses of entertainment, and the Hotel Ingles (English Hotel), kept by a
+Frenchman, may not only boast of elegant apartments and an excellent
+cuisine, but surpasses all European hotels in expensiveness.[105]
+
+Santiago de Chile lies in a beautiful fertile valley, and would present a
+much more imposing appearance, were it not that, owing to the frequency of
+earthquakes, the majority of the houses were built only one storey high.
+The long straight streets intersecting each other at right angles, are in
+a state calling loudly for sanitary regulation; uneven, badly ballasted,
+with huge ruts at the sides, so that it is difficult to say whether the
+foot-passenger or the charioteer is the worst off. Much of this is due to
+the number of heavy two-wheeled _carretas_ or country waggons, drawn by
+six or eight oxen, in which all produce is conveyed from the interior of
+the country to the harbour, and foreign merchandise transported from the
+sea-board to the capital. On our journey hither we counted 124 of these
+lumbering vehicles, creaking and rattling on their way; but there are on
+the average 300 such on the road between Santiago and Valparaiso. A good
+deal of the less bulky merchandise is also carried on horse or mule-back.
+
+Of striking public buildings Santiago is almost as destitute as
+Valparaiso, the Mint,[106] which dates from the time of Spanish Supremacy,
+being the sole building worth noticing. The city also boasts of a Plaza, a
+large quadrangular, open spot, of no special elegance, although it has on
+one side the Cathedral, still in process of erection, on the other a range
+of private dwellings with arcades beneath, in which nestle swarms of
+stall-vendors, besides several Government buildings which are concentrated
+here. Of public promenades, the Alameda, a long, wide poplar-alley, is,
+beyond all question, the finest, as well as most frequented, especially on
+Sundays and holidays. The period of our visit, the winter of the Southern
+Hemisphere was not favourable to our carrying away a correct impression of
+the public walks at their gayest, especially when, as in our case, the
+weather is raw and gloomy, and the mournful rustle of dead leaves sounds
+like the elegy of departed gaiety. Thus, for example, the dam along the
+sides of the river, the waters of which in the rainy season swell into a
+furious torrent, but the bed of which was now quite dry, forms in summer a
+delightful walk; whereas in winter it is only visited by students,
+preachers meditative of their next discourse, or lovers oblivious of the
+elements.
+
+There is in Santiago a surprising degree of intellectual activity, and
+great readiness in promoting scientific discovery. The philosophical
+works, which have of late years made their appearance, are deserving of
+the highest praise. The educated foreigner is not regarded askance here
+with envious eye, nor, because he happens not to be a native, kept in the
+back-ground, and refused admission to positions of public trust and
+influence; he is rather encouraged in his exertions by the example of such
+men as Domeyko, Philippi, Pissis, Moesta, &c. The well-known costly work
+in 24 volumes, describing the physical and political history of Chile, was
+composed by a Frenchman named Claudio Gay,[107] the expense of printing it
+in Paris being borne by the Government. The annals of the University of
+Chile appear in regular publication each year from 1843, and comprise
+choice though miscellaneous information upon almost every topic of
+scientific interest.
+
+One of the leading and most highly informed professors in this principal
+seat of education, Don Ignacio Domeyko, a Pole by birth, but who has made
+Chile his second home, very kindly acted as cicerone to our Expedition,
+and furnished us with most valuable details as to the present state of
+public instruction.
+
+The University of San Felipe was founded in 1738, but the present system
+of instruction has only been in operation since 1842. The joint Council of
+the five professors of the faculties of philosophy and the humanities,
+physical and mathematical science, medicine, judicial and political
+instruction and theology, are intrusted with the supervision of the entire
+national education, each faculty having also the privilege of naming
+corresponding members, and in other respects occupying the position of
+similar institutions in Europe. The President of the Republic is the chief
+patron. The amount expended by the State annually in public instruction,
+is upwards of £120,000, an enormous amount considering the small
+population.[108]
+
+The University is also charged with the custody of the national library of
+32,000 volumes, embracing works upon every subject of scientific
+inquiry,[109] and the museum of natural history, in which are very
+complete ethnographical and geological collections. The most remarkable
+object in the latter is undoubtedly the native stag, _Huemul_, or _Guamul_
+(_Cervus Chilensis_), which figures conspicuously on the Chilean
+escutcheon, and was long regarded as a fabulous animal, as it had never
+been seen alive. However, in the year 1833, the specimens (male and
+female) at present in the museum were shot in the Cordillera de Campania,
+within a short period of each other.[110]
+
+The observatory was in temporary quarters on an eminence in the midst of
+the city, but within a few years the new building would be completed,
+which was being constructed by Government for astronomical purposes,
+outside the town not far from the school of agriculture. The instruments
+in use were chiefly provided by the well-known North American traveller
+Gillis, who for many years carried on astronomical observations for the
+American Government in South America, especially in Chile, and when his
+labours were completed, left his instruments with the Chilean Government
+by way of indemnity. The management of the observatory is intrusted to
+Dr. Moesta, a German astronomer well-known in astronomical circles.
+
+The school of Technology (_Escuela de Artes y oficios_), founded in 1845
+by a French gentleman named Jariez, and, like the preceding, assisted by a
+grant from Government, has met with great support and success. In this
+eminently practical institution upwards of a hundred pupils are being
+taught the construction of machinery, and the various processes connected
+therewith, the children of poor parents having a preference. The pupils
+are boarded, lodged, and clothed gratuitously, and have therefore nothing
+to do but to remain four years in the establishment, after which they
+serve Government six years longer, assisting in the public works at a
+given remuneration, or if there should be no need for their services in
+the latter department, they are at liberty immediately on the expiry of
+their apprenticeship to follow what occupation they please. One young
+Chileno was pointed out to us who had risen from being a pupil to the
+position of foreman, and was now engaged in imparting instruction in
+drawing and mathematics.
+
+As important in its way as the Escuela de Artes, and equally useful in the
+interests of science and industry, is the _Quinta normal_ for the landed
+proprietary. This model farm, founded in 1851, and arranged upon the
+French system, is situated outside the town, and consists of a tolerably
+extensive plot of land, which includes within its limits the new
+observatory and the botanical gardens. The present director is a graduate
+of the Ecole Centrale of Paris, and his indefatigable activity speedily
+insured the prosperity of the undertaking. It is divided into two
+departments, a school of agriculture proper, and a veterinary college. The
+course, which comprises agriculture, botany, and treatment of diseases of
+animals, besides the elements of chemistry, physiology, geology, zoology,
+and geometry, besides geography and drawing, extends over three years,
+every pupil educated at the expense of the State being required to devote
+six years to the public service. Government has reserved to itself thirty
+free presentations, which it may increase to sixty.
+
+The small but well-arranged museum contains an admirably selected
+collection of the most important esculents and grasses suitable for
+foddering cattle, as also the conditions of soil which are best suited for
+growing these, besides a number of different fruits, executed in _papier
+maché_, with remarkable fidelity to nature, belonging to trees and plants,
+cultivated at the Institute, with the purpose of ultimately selling them
+at the proper time to farmers, and thus not only do justice to agriculture
+as a science, but increase its own revenue, not to speak of the benefits,
+direct and indirect, to the country at large. The purchaser is thus
+enabled to judge for himself what description of fruit will be likely to
+prove most remunerative to him, while the establishment at the same time
+realizes a considerable sum by this sale of seedlings, plants, and seeds,
+in a country where hitherto so little attention has been bestowed on
+high-class agriculture.
+
+The zealous and far-seeing director is also endeavouring to induce the
+Chilean landowner to grow turnips, and other tubers, which might be used
+for foddering the cattle in winter, and so lead to a more economical
+system of cultivation, and consequent improvement of the race of farmers
+themselves. At present, where this kind of farming is utterly unknown, as
+soon as winter sets in, many a landowner finds himself compelled, year
+after year, to sell or kill his cattle owing to want of fodder, while he
+himself goes out as a day labourer, till the return of spring. The
+introduction and extension of such a system, which would enable him to
+maintain his herds and flocks all the year round, would put a stop to his
+present unsettled mode of life, improve his farm, and impart increased
+comfort and security to every relation of his business.
+
+At this _Escuela normal_ we likewise found the sorgho, or Chinese
+sugar-cane, in course of cultivation with great success. Though the
+temperature is occasionally so low in Santiago as to form, during the
+winter, ice[111] about two lines in thickness, the sorgho does not seem to
+suffer any damage, but gives its three crops each year, besides being much
+used for fodder. The first seeds of this species of grass, which has
+within four years made the circuit of the globe, and is now profitably
+cultivated in almost every part of the world, were imported into Chile
+from the free States of North America.
+
+Professor Domeyko, who possesses a most admirable geological and
+mineralogical collection, presented the Expedition with a choice selection
+of interesting and costly ores from the copper, silver, cobalt, and
+quicksilver mines of the country; and although the rich stores of
+publications and geological specimens with which the director of the
+Geological Institution of the Austrian Empire, Counsellor Haidinger, had
+provided for the purpose to present them to scientific institutions in the
+different foreign countries visited, was already exhausted and done away
+with, yet we had at least the satisfaction of learning that the Imperial
+Institute of Geology,[112] whose eminent director has extended throughout
+the world the renown of Austria, as a pioneer of geology, maintains
+already an active correspondence with the managers of the museum of the
+Chilean Republic.
+
+Very soon after our arrival at Santiago, our Commodore was honoured with a
+special audience by the President of the Republic, H.E. Don Manuel Montt.
+The Commodore was accompanied by the Austrian Consul-general and the
+author of this narrative. The reception came off in a plain but
+elegantly-furnished apartment of the palace-like Government House, the
+style of which is quite modern. Don Manuel Montt, a short, under-sized
+gentleman, with dark strongly-marked features, and straight, somewhat
+bristly, hair, had during the recent troubles displayed more courage and
+energy than his external appearance would have led one to expect, and used
+his dictatorial authority with such discretion and prudence, as to excite
+the astonishment and respect of all well-wishers of his native land. He
+was attended at the interview by the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Don
+Jerónimo Urmeneta, a man of frank, attractive manners, whose youth was
+spent in the United States, and who speaks English fluently.
+
+The conversation turned chiefly upon the proposed commercial and
+navigation treaty projected by the Imperial Government, a sketch of which
+in the Spanish language was read over to the President by the Commodore.
+Don Manuel (as the highest authority in the free State of Chile was called
+by the people) expressed the utmost readiness to carry out this
+arrangement, and repeatedly avowed his wish to enter into intimate
+relations with the Austrian Government, and execute all necessary papers,
+which could assist an object fraught with such benefits to both nations.
+He also spoke of the desirability of endeavouring to increase the
+intercourse between the scientific institutes of Chile and Austria, and in
+token of the interest he took in the objects of the Expedition, presented
+a copy of Gay's splendid work, as also an extensive collection of all the
+historical and statistical papers illustrative of Chilean history during
+the last ten years.
+
+The hope indulged by the Commodore of being able to get the preliminaries
+of the Treaty signed before our departure, were unfortunately frustrated
+by the serious political events which then entirely occupied the attention
+of the various members of Government. It was necessary by moderate
+measures and an energetic policy to crush out the Revolution, which had
+broken out about two months prior to our arrival, before it had attained
+uncontrollable dimensions. The insurgents in this case were not vehement
+hot-headed Republicans, desirous of further liberty, but reactionary
+Ultramontanes (of whom there always are some, even in a Republic), who
+wished to overthrow the existing Liberal Government, and substitute in its
+place a more flexible cabinet, more dependent upon party tactics. The
+dread lest the insurrection should spread till it resulted in civil war,
+which would throw back for years the prosperity of the country, proved to
+be well-grounded. For several of the most prominent and distinguished
+citizens of Chile, as also the clerical party always so powerful in
+Spanish American colonies, had united with the insurgents, whose youthful
+and ardent leader, Don Pedro Gallo, belonged to one of the wealthiest and
+most influential families in Chile. He had already assumed a threatening
+attitude in the northern provinces, where his family was held in high
+consideration, and had cut off all communication with the mining city of
+Copiapó. His mother, a lady some sixty years of age, harangued her son's
+troops from the balcony of her house, and repeatedly excited her auditory
+by shrieking out the thrilling assurance, that "she would sacrifice her
+last farthing would it but ensure the downfall of the existing Government,
+and the return to power of the party of the _Peluqueros_" (literally
+wig-makers, or Whigs, who in Chile are regarded as adherents of the
+Conservative, or rather reactionary party).
+
+Of the immense sums which ambition and party rancour are willing to
+sacrifice in Chile, some idea may be formed from the fact that the Gallo
+family, at the commencement of the insurrection, engaged to devote their
+whole fortune, estimated at more than £600,000, in promoting the aims of
+the revolutionists. Fortunately for the pecuniary interests both of the
+family and the State, it was nipped in the bud, before any enormous
+expenses had been incurred, although it must be confessed that also in
+Chile making war is a most costly pastime. The Intendant of Valparaiso,
+Don Joaquim Novoa, informed us that the cost of maintaining the
+highly-paid Chilean army, which does not number above 8000 men, amounts to
+500,000 dollars (£100,000) A WEEK!!! considerably more, proportionally,
+than four times the estimated cost of the highly-trained British army.
+
+Our evenings in Santiago were usually spent in private circles, and we
+found ourselves in no small degree astonished at the elegance and luxury
+which were visible, both in the fitting up of the reception-rooms and the
+toilettes of the guests. It is true, we associated with the wealthiest
+and most distinguished families in the country, but we had not expected to
+find the subdued but exquisite French taste so universally prevalent. The
+external aspect of the houses of the Chilean patricians is rather massive
+than elegant. The heavy iron grating which surrounds the wide lofty
+windows leave a disagreeable gloomy impression. The large quadrangular
+court, or Patìo, enclosed by the bed-chambers, and which is common to
+every Spanish American house from Chile to Mexico, is intended less for
+the passage of air and light to the various apartments than as a place to
+fly to in case of an earthquake (which, however, within the last 20 years
+were of rare occurrence in Chile and of no great importance), whence it
+would be easy to escape. Usually the reception-room has no cost or pains
+spared to embellish it; every object or article of furniture in it being
+designed to produce a certain effect. The expense and risk attending the
+transport of a large mirror or pianoforte, or other article of similar
+value, from the factory at Paris to its destination in Chile, is enough to
+make the visitor open his eyes with amazement at beholding them there!
+
+Conversation, which, owing to the limited information of the ladies,
+usually turns in South American drawing-rooms upon the most common-place
+subjects, is marked in Chile by all the interest and vivacity consequent
+on the important influence exercised by the fair sex over the politics of
+the country, which prefers debating important political events to idle
+chatter and ordinary talk.
+
+Even more agreeable than the evenings we spent among the patrician circles
+of Santiago, were those which we passed with an Austrian gentleman, Dr.
+Herzl, settled here some ten years, and with some German-Spanish families.
+Here everlasting politics, or rather party squabbles, had not, as in the
+native _salons_, banished music and song, the latter being cherished as a
+means of rising out of the hurly-burly, and keeping the annoyances of
+public life, for the moment at least, at arm's length.
+
+In Chilean salons nothing was talked but politics; here the bent of
+conversation was towards literature and art, and, climax of the evening,
+the beloved melodies of our native land. Madame Z----, a native of Madrid,
+a second time married to a German, is a downright musical prodigy. In her
+youth she had studied at the _Conservatoire_ in Paris in company with
+Madame Malibran, and although now 54, and the mother of 16 children, she
+still entrances by her clear ringing voice, and the charm of her
+exquisitely appreciative intonation.
+
+The chief engineer and director of the southern railway (Ferro Carril del
+Sur), a North American gentleman named Evans, a graduate of West Point,
+had the kindness to invite some members of the Expedition to visit the
+Maipú Bridge, distant some 17 miles from Santiago, and accompanied them in
+person on their excursion to this the most interesting engineering work of
+the line. We set off at 1 P.M. by one of the ordinary trains. The road is
+intended to unite Santiago with the very productive district of Talca, a
+distance of 180 miles, and is destined to exercise a most beneficial
+influence in improving the position of the peasantry.
+
+The drive through the valley of Santiago is exceedingly interesting, as
+the line keeps close beneath the Cordillera through nearly its entire
+length, thus revealing to the gaze of the astonished traveller a
+succession of Alpine landscapes, such as one might behold in crossing the
+Semmering Alp. The ordinary rate of travelling in Chile is 25 miles an
+hour, but the expresses occasionally run at the rate of 60 miles per hour.
+As the splendid pastures on either side are grazed by innumerable herds,
+some of which were constantly straying upon the line, the item for injury
+done to cattle used to assume serious proportions, owing to the negligence
+of the drivers, till the directors, under the advice of Mr. Evans, offered
+a premium of 30 dollars a quarter to any engine driver who should during
+that space avoid killing any of the cattle: a singular regulation, but
+which put a stop to the evil. The line is solidly constructed, but very
+simply equipped, the waiting-rooms at the different stations being
+entirely deficient in that luxury which the traveller is accustomed to on
+first-rate European lines. But it tells in favour of the dividend.[113]
+
+The splendid and substantially-built iron bridge thrown over the Maipú
+here, 1500 feet wide, at an elevation of 1822 feet above the level of the
+sea, was like everything used on the line, with the exception of the wood,
+imported from North America. Of the difficulty and expense attending
+land-transport in Chile, some idea may be formed from the fact that the
+freightage of one ton of goods from New York to Valparaiso, 10,000 miles
+by sea, is but £1 1_s._, whereas the conveyance of the same quantity from
+Santiago to Valparaiso, only 100 miles, costs £7 7_s._!!
+
+Although evening surprised us ere we returned to Santiago from Maipú, and
+a dense mist hung over the landscape quite precluding all views for the
+greatest part of the road, we were so fortunate, shortly before our
+arrival at the city, as to be favoured with a glimpse of the majestic
+range of the Cordillera, lit up by the declining rays of the sun, a
+spectacle resembling the sunset splendours of the Alps in Switzerland; but
+the novelty of the details of which, coupled with its suddenness and
+brevity of duration, greatly deepened the impression of awe and admiration
+with which we regarded it.
+
+At noon of the 30th of April we set out on our return to Valparaiso. On
+this occasion we availed ourselves of a different kind of vehicle, an
+American mail-coach as it is termed, from its having been first organized
+by a North American, which admitted of our seeing a different range of
+country. In this journey we were fortunate enough to be accompanied by Mr.
+James Volckmann, a young German gentleman, who is an active colleague of
+the renowned geologist, Mr. Pissis, and has already himself contributed
+many valuable additions to our acquaintance with the geology of Chile. The
+coach stopping at Melepilla, the next station, a neat little town nestling
+on a level surface at the foot of a lovely valley, whence it was to
+proceed the following morning to the port, we took advantage of the
+opportunity to pay an _impromptu_ visit to a Chilean family in the
+neighbourhood, to which we had introduction. We rode out accordingly to
+the _hacienda_ of Las Esmeraldas, about two miles distant from Melepilla,
+where we were received like old friends of the hospitable family Lecaros.
+Most of the wealthy landowners of the country pass only a few months of
+each year in their splendid houses at Valparaiso or Santiago, and spend
+the rest of their time in affluent retirement upon their properties. The
+small, externally unsightly, mansion was furnished within with all that
+could minister to that genuine English notion of COMFORT; and the ladies,
+though the hour was so late that they could scarcely have expected any
+further visitors, received us in full Parisian toilette. This surprised us
+the more, inasmuch as the national costume is very much more graceful than
+that of Europe,--even an elderly female, dressed in sombre-hued silk, and
+with a long black coif around the head, the left ribbon of which is turned
+over the right shoulder, having quite a unique, piquant, and attractive
+appearance.
+
+Even here the conversation took a political tone, and it speedily came to
+light that the stay of the ladies at Las Esmeraldas at the present
+inclement season was attributable less to any admiration of the beauties
+of nature than to some political disagreement; for the Chilean ladies,
+like all their sex of the Latin stock, delight in political
+demonstrations. However, they are mainly taken up with keeping the
+Ultramontane element, the influence of which is everywhere apparent,
+within the limits assigned it by the Constitution itself. The head of the
+family, Don José Antonio Lecaro, an excellent energetic old gentleman,
+told us a great deal about his property, of the improvements he had made
+and was still projecting, and we regretted that the advanced hour
+prevented our examining this well-managed _hacienda_, which is so large
+that the pasturage can maintain several thousand horned cattle and horses.
+Nevertheless, so far as regards numbers of farm-animals, it is probable
+that the proprietor of Las Esmeraldas is very far from being among the
+most extensive land-holders of Chile.
+
+In the evening we adjourned to the elegant drawing-room, where time flew
+away in the most delightful manner with music and singing; the music,
+chiefly German, being selected, if we were not mistaken, quite as much
+through genuine appreciation of the great _maestros_ whose works were
+chosen, as to do honour to the nationality of the guests.
+
+During the night we returned on horseback to Melepilla, and the following
+morning, 1st May, 1859, continued our journey to Valparaiso, where we
+arrived about four P.M., full of the most delightful and varied memories
+of our trip.
+
+When we reached Valparaiso the frigate was ready to sail, but her
+departure was delayed, as our Commodore resolved to await the arrival of
+the next European mail, in case he should receive further instructions as
+to his route. In every social circle at this place, men hoped against hope
+that a European Congress would be convoked, which should devise a peaceful
+solution of existing differences. If, however, there was to be war, then
+amongst all, especially the Germans resident here, it was a foregone
+conclusion that Germany ought to make common cause with Austria. The
+disappointment was not long waited for--* * * *!
+
+The uncertainty of our stay did not admit of any more excursions being
+made to a distance, and the naturalists accordingly redoubled their
+activity in searching for subjects in the environs of the town. The
+Directors of the railroad from Valparaiso to Santiago, which, however, is
+as yet only completed as far as the little village of Guillota, were so
+kind as to invite the members of the Expedition to make free use of their
+line, and the chief engineer, Mr. Lloyd, had also issued instructions to
+the various station-masters to give all manner of facilities to the
+foreign guests, and assist them in their collections to the utmost of
+their power. Unfortunately we found no time to avail ourselves of this
+very friendly invitation, and thus had to forego an excellent opportunity
+for examining the line itself, and studying its interesting geological
+features.
+
+We succeeded once in getting as far as Guillota, the Spa of Chile. This
+portion of the road, 30 miles in length, is much travelled over, the fares
+being 1, 2, and 3 dollars according to class, and the monthly receipts
+amount to from 20,000 to 25,000 dollars (£4200 to £5250).
+
+The little village of Guillota, lying in a valley laid out in orchards and
+vineyards, is of enormous extent; the _Calle larga_, or Long Street, being
+six English miles in length. The houses are usually one storey, very plain
+and unpretending but scrupulously clean. The stranger who wanders though
+Guillota, and becomes sensible of the filth and dust in the streets, and
+the entire absence of comfort within-doors, is apt to puzzle himself how
+the place came to be selected for a summer resort of the fashionable
+world, as indeed he may marvel how the Spanish navigators, to whom
+Valparaiso is indebted for its name, contrived to associate the idea of
+the Vale of Paradise with its sandy hills and glades bare of vegetation.
+Possibly the summer guests, who flock hither from October to March, may be
+sufficiently enthusiastic in their admiration of natural scenery, to feel
+themselves indemnified for discomfort within-doors by the charm of the
+surrounding landscape. The environs are exceedingly beautiful, the valley
+abounds in luxuriant vegetation and beautiful distant prospects, and from
+the little hill of Mañaca, 150 to 200 feet in height, on the summit of
+which a large wooden cross was set up by missionary preachers in 1849,
+there is stretched at the feet of the beholder a magnificent picture of
+unrivalled interest and beauty, especially when the sun is near his
+setting, and lights up the magnificent peaks, from 3000 to 4000 feet in
+height, called, from their form resembling that of a bell, Campaña and
+Campañita. More probably, however, the visitors from the port are at that
+hour busily employed at the "green tables," where, at faro and roulette,
+enormous sums are frequently lost and won.
+
+One marked peculiarity, which it is impossible to avoid noticing, is the
+vast disproportion here between the sexes. One hardly ever sees any but
+ladies in the streets, or sitting elegantly attired on low stools in front
+of the open door, their hands busy with their work, their eyes watching
+the passers-by. The numerous hard-working male population is much more
+profitably employed in working at the city, rather than staying at home
+engaged in agriculture; whence it results that at Guillota, just as in
+some European fishing villages along our sea-coasts, the male portion of
+the household are often absent for weeks together, and the little hamlet
+has the appearance of being the head-quarters of a tribe of Amazons.
+
+From Guillota we went on to a large hacienda, about nine miles further,
+called La Calera, the property of a native of Bolivia. Part of this is
+planted with almond trees, but by far the larger portion is devoted to
+wine-growing. One of the _Mandadores_, or overseers; begged us to enter a
+large, handsome building where the process of wine-preparing was being
+carried on, and gave us some new wine, here called _Chicha_(pronounced
+Tchitcha), which tasted very sweet and palatable. The Chicha is used in
+enormous quantities in Chile, and is even sent abroad in large
+bottle-shaped skins, but, owing to this mode of keeping it, the wine,
+which is set down much as cider is in Normandy, acquires a villanous twang
+that is anything but agreeable.
+
+In Valparaiso we were so fortunate as to fall in with Mr. Kindermann, one
+of the founders of the German settlement of Valdivia, who has been long
+resident there, and has large landed property in that direction. We also
+made the acquaintance of Dr. Philippi, who, although attending to his
+duties as Professor of Natural History in the University of Santiago,
+finds time to take an active part in the colony of Valdivia. It would
+appear from the inquiries instituted by competent persons, that the main
+obstacle to the permanent success and extension of the German colony
+consists in the want of roads, and that the fertility of the soil
+justifies the most sanguine hopes, so soon as more ready means of
+communication are provided, that the numerous products raised by this
+industrious community will no longer want either a steady market or
+extensive buyers.
+
+Another German colony, which was organized with extensive privileges
+established at Punta Arenas in Magelhaen's Straits, and now numbers some
+150 colonists, not only displays the most cheering signs of vitality, and
+that in a climate which has acquired, most unjustly however, an unenviable
+reputation, but promises to be of great importance both to Chile itself
+and to the vessels of all nations navigating the Straits of
+Magelhaen[114]. This will be more particularly the case, so soon as the
+scheme projected by certain Chilean patriots is realized, of which there
+is an early prospect, of placing a number of steamers upon the
+Magelhaen-Straits' line, for the purpose of towing vessels through.
+
+In order to form an adequate conception of the importance of this
+undertaking, both for Chile and all seafaring nations, it must be borne in
+mind, that by thus making the Straits available, vessels will not alone
+escape the storms of Cape Horn, but will effect a great saving in time.
+Maury estimates the time required by a vessel to pass from the eastern
+entrance of the Straits around Cape Horn to the western entrance at 25
+days. They could be towed through in from four to five days, thus saving
+some 20 days. The tonnage passing round Cape Horn to Valparaiso alone
+cannot be much short of 120,000 tons of merchandise, valued at about
+16,000,000 dollars (£3,200,000), so that the pecuniary returns realized by
+the saving of time in the voyages of these vessels promises to realize to
+the company a net profit of 257,776 dollars (£53,600)[115].
+
+Of course the estimate will become very much larger, if all the sailing
+vessels be included which pass annually round the Horn from E. to W.,
+amounting to some 500 in number, with a tonnage of 400,000, and cargoes
+valued at 53,000,000 dollars (£11,000,000). The projectors also propose to
+erect a lighthouse and telegraph station, both at Cape Virgin on the East,
+and Cape Pilar at the Western entrance, as also in Possession Bay, 40
+miles W. of Virgin's Cape, at the Eastern entrance, and to have the dépôt
+buildings for the requisite materials at the entrance of Smythe Channel,
+35 miles east of Cape Pilar. Four or five steamers of at least 500 tons
+are to perform the towing service, for which they propose to charge
+sailing vessels 1.50 dollars (6s. 3_d._) per ton, less, in fact, than the
+charge for towing in China, Australia, &c.
+
+The carrying out of this scheme, which must exercise an incalculable
+influence on the commerce of the Pacific slope of the Indies, is mainly
+dependent on the disposition of the Chilean Government to guarantee a
+given interest, and accord certain facilities to the company which is to
+undertake so important and heavy an enterprise. Its requirements are by no
+means extravagant. During a period of fifteen years, it asks for an annual
+subvention of 125,000 dollars, for the first five years,[116] during the
+next five years of 100,000 dollars, and in the last five years 75,000
+dollars, after which all aid from the State is to be withdrawn. Further,
+the company seeks to be secured in the exclusive right during those
+fifteen years of working the coal-fields,[117] which are known to exist in
+the Straits, to be presented free of expense with the land required for
+the various buildings and stations, and, lastly, permission to fell wood
+all along Magelhaen's Straits, and in the divergent bays, gulfs, and
+channels, but on the condition that one half of the soil so reclaimed
+shall remain the property of the State, the other half to remain in
+perpetuity the property of the adventurers. From the day on which this
+project is ushered into existence by the munificence and under the
+auspices of the Chilean Government, a new era will commence for the
+shipping interest along the west coast of South America! The difficulty is
+in securing a monopoly of the Straits. At present any captain may run the
+Straits if he will, and this is occasionally done. An English man-of-war
+passed through in the spring of 1862.
+
+At last, on 8th May, the European mail came in, but failed to bring the
+letters we expected, giving us instead only news of several months back,
+our bag having been sent to Lima instead of Valparaiso. However, the news
+received direct from Europe left no doubt that a war was imminent between
+France and Austria, and this circumstance at once determined our
+commander, like a true patriot, to return immediately home, so as to make
+his own services as well as those of his subordinates available in
+protecting our native land from the dangers impending over it. The
+original plan of sailing to Lima, and thence, after visiting the
+Galipagos, to Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, was under the prevailing
+circumstances totally abandoned. In a few days more the vessel was to sail
+for Gibraltar direct round Cape Horn.
+
+As this decision involved a sea-voyage of some 10,000 miles, which must
+naturally be almost barren of ethnographic or statistical interest, and as
+the arrival of the _Novara_ at Gibraltar could scarcely be expected under
+from 80 to 90 days, the author of this narrative requested permission of
+the commander of the Expedition to devote the time required for the
+frigate to make her voyage, in prosecuting a journey overland to Lima and
+Panama, with the intention of catching at Aspinwall the next British royal
+mail steamer to Europe, and thus again fall in with the _Novara_ at
+Gibraltar about the beginning of August. The paramount motive for this
+proposal was the wish expressed to dedicate all this time to visit Lima,
+Panama, and the intermediate ports, and thus to forward to the utmost the
+objects of the Imperial Expedition, even when it was in fact homeward
+bound. It was also his intention to institute certain inquiries while
+residing in the capital of Peru, respecting the actual condition of those
+Tyrolese families, who, misled by alluring prospects of all sorts, had
+resolved on emigrating to Peru in 1851, and had since then sunk into a
+most wretched state, according to indirect accounts received of their
+unhappy case. Commodore Wüllerstorf, always ready to assist, whenever it
+is in his power, in promoting and advancing scientific aims, at once
+acceded to this request, conceiving that it was a deviation quite within
+the scope of his instructions for the Expedition, and compatible with the
+objects aimed at by its illustrious projector.
+
+Before the departure of the _Novara_, the Austrian Consul-General gave a
+splendid entertainment. This had been repeatedly postponed, as, under
+existing circumstances, it was not certain whether Chilean society could
+well be present. The intelligence, however, which a few days previous had
+been received from the Northern provinces as to the attitude of
+Government, the suppression of the insurrection, and the flight of the
+leaders, had produced a vehement reaction in the public mind, and, at
+least among governmental circles, had given hope of a happy solution.
+
+Accordingly the ball came off, and very gay it was. The spacious and
+elegant residence of M. Flemmich (the head of the distinguished English
+firm of Huth, Grüning, & Co.) was richly adorned with flowers in every
+apartment, and the whole brilliantly lit up, while a bevy of graceful
+ladies swept through the salons, whose natural charms were enhanced by
+their agreeable geniality, not less than by an elegance of toilette such
+as Parisian salons themselves could not have surpassed.
+
+A few days before the _Novara_ sailed, a merchantman dropped anchor in the
+roads, which on her voyage from Melbourne to Europe had, while running 11
+miles an hour, come into collision with an iceberg in 60° S. and 149° E.,
+by which she had lost bowsprit, foremast, and all her topmasts, besides
+carrying away her cutwater and figurehead, and damaging the hull, and, sad
+to relate, sacrificing the lives of sixteen persons! The spectacle
+presented by this mere ruin of a ship, as she ran in half dismasted under
+jury-rig, created profound emotion even among the seafaring portion of the
+community, which was still further deepened, when the full particulars of
+their sufferings were detailed by the passengers. The captain, fully
+expecting that a ship so seriously damaged must go to the bottom, formed
+the unworthy resolution of escaping in a boat with fifteen of the men. The
+whole perished, it is supposed, as nothing was ever heard of them, while
+the vessel, which owed her truly marvellous preservation to the fact that,
+having struck stem on, she had sprung no leak, though so terribly injured,
+was enabled to pursue her voyage to Valparaiso, where she arrived, the
+wind proving favourable, after a passage of 55 days.
+
+On the 11th May all was ready for the departure of the _Novara_, and the
+officer on duty only waited a favourable breeze to weigh anchor and set
+sail. Unfortunately, however, none such sprung up, and when towards 7 A.M.
+a gentle breeze at last rippled the water, it did not last long enough to
+enable the vessel to clear the roads. The captain of H.M.S. _Ganges_ (80),
+who, as also Admiral Baines, the venerable Commander-in-chief of the
+British naval forces on the Pacific station, had already in a variety of
+ways cordially coöperated with and aided the Austrian Expedition, sent
+some of his boats to tow the frigate out of the roads, in which the French
+corvette _Constantine_, which had arrived the day before, politely
+assisted. Thus towed along by no less than 14 boats, the _Novara_
+succeeded in getting into the open ocean. Favoured with a gentle breeze
+from the northward, she was soon able to lie her course, and towards
+evening, when a rather fresh S.W. sprang up, she was rapidly leaving the
+hospitable shores of Chile.
+
+The Commodore thought it advisable to make an offing of from 100 to 200
+miles parallel with the coast, and to keep increasing his distance even
+against contrary winds, so as to permit of his rounding Terra del Fuego,
+running free before the S.W. winds, prevalent at that season off the Horn.
+
+The weather was from time to time heavy and unfavourable, besides being
+cold and rainy, but on the whole it was a very fair passage for the winter
+season. But few observations could be got, though there were enough to
+admit of keeping the ship on her course. Only once did it happen that no
+observations could be got for several days, till, during the night of
+23rd May the sky suddenly cleared. No sooner, however, had the officer of
+the watch selected a star by which to calculate his position, than he
+found himself involved in no small perplexity. The Southern Cross and
+Centaur were close to the zenith, and when the seamen directed their
+wondering gaze to the magnificent aspect presented by the southern stellar
+hemisphere, they could with difficulty recognize the old familiar European
+constellations as they now shone forth along the northern horizon, with
+sadly diminished brilliancy.
+
+The further south the _Novara_ ran, the more melancholy grew the aspect
+both of the sun and the moon. Fog, clouds, and rain obscured a great
+proportion of the feeble light left, and although the clearness of the
+night occasionally made some compensation, yet to sailors long accustomed
+to the warm, smiling tropical skies, they seemed doubly cold and gloomy.
+
+The frigate rolled heavily, her oscillations increasing the general
+discomfort, although the fetch of ocean was less than off the Cape of Good
+Hope. Impelled by favourable winds, the good ship rapidly neared the
+southernmost point of her voyage, and every one on board watched with
+ever-increasing interest the alterations in the natural phenomena of these
+inhospitable latitudes.
+
+Several days were lost in calms and easterly winds, and partly to catch
+the southerly breezes which might drive her N.E. into the zone of constant
+winds, partly for the purpose of scientific investigation, the vessel was
+carried as far south as the parallel of 60°.
+
+On 28th May, the thermometer was observed to indicate a strongly-marked
+and speedy decline in the temperature of the water, whence it was
+conjectured that polar winds would be found following the course of the
+cold current, or else that icebergs were near. The ship's head was now
+laid for Terra del Fuego, the wind blowing very gently from the N.E., but
+a S. wind springing up later, she began to work merrily along. Of several
+ships which for some days had been in sight, steering the same course as
+the frigate, none had ventured so far south; they now were all left
+behind, having lost way by over-caution. Among these was the French
+corvette _Eurydice_, which left Valparaiso Roads two days before the
+_Novara_, and was overhauled on the 29th May.
+
+With the polar wind snow fell during the night; and when day broke, about
+9 A.M., the singular spectacle was presented of a ship all in
+white,--white masts, white yards, white cannon. This appearance was
+repeated the two following days only, but the weather remained for a much
+longer period cold and disagreeable. The lowest reading, however, of the
+thermometer only indicated 3° Celsius below freezing (26°.6 Fahr.).
+
+On 29th May, about noon, the _Novara_ crossed the meridian of Cape Horn,
+and was once more in the Atlantic Ocean. Notwithstanding the uncertain
+conditions of wind and weather, a variety of interesting observations
+were made during the passage of the ship round Cape Horn, and numbers of
+valuable results obtained for the benefit of navigators in those high
+latitudes. Thus, for example, the fallacy was established of the assertion
+of certain navigators that "the fluctuations of the barometer off Cape
+Horn did not depend on the state of wind and weather." In like manner by
+ascertaining the mean of a variety of collated data, it was found that the
+temperature of the surface of the ocean demands the most careful
+attention, inasmuch as the alterations in it from hour to hour may be
+relied on to indicate corresponding changes in the wind and weather.
+
+The low reading of the barometer off the Horn seems to be a sort of
+compensation for the great pressure of the air in what are known to seamen
+as "the Horse latitudes," and, in point of fact, the barometrical readings
+at 56° S. betray a drooping tendency, which corresponds with the movements
+of the sun, as the latter also does with that of the zone of greatest
+atmospheric pressure. Hence it is obvious that from this parallel the
+atmospheric pressure will increase as we advance to the Pole, and this law
+is farther confirmed by the prevailing winds further south. Hence, while
+we find north-west or strong west winds blowing off Cape Horn, at the
+South Shetland Islands, still further south, the prevailing winds are N.E.
+or E., thus producing contrary atmospheric currents, almost resembling
+chronic whirlwinds, and consequently that both north and south of the
+central zone, the barometer will be found to indicate a greater
+atmospheric pressure.
+
+For this reason vessels intending to round the Horn from E. to W. usually
+keep further to the south than those sailing in the opposite direction. On
+the other hand, during the winter season of the southern hemisphere, the
+east wind must blow more frequently at the Cape itself, in consequence of
+the influence exercised by the zone of least atmospheric pressure, and the
+weather be less likely to prove stormy. And such is found in fact to be
+the case.
+
+Hitherto, with the exception of Cape Horn, so few observations have been
+made in high southern latitudes, that it is impossible to arrive at any
+definite conclusion, important as the subject is to science as well as in
+the interests of commerce, and which must exercise so much influence upon
+the whole system of atmospheric changes over the entire surface of the
+earth. To attain this object, an expedition consisting of but one ship
+cannot suffice. It would be necessary to employ several, each provided
+with instruments carefully compared, and which should sail simultaneously
+to the southern waters at definite distances from each other, and at given
+times make precisely similar observations and devote their entire
+attention to investigating the laws which regulate this puzzle to the
+scientific student.
+
+Under more favourable political auspices, a joint expedition by the
+various naval powers would be the best means of solving the problem, and a
+fleet of some ten or twelve ships commencing upon a definite plan, might
+obtain results such as might hand down the scientific renown of our age
+and century to all future generations.
+
+While sailing in these southern latitudes, the Commodore hit upon the idea
+of ascertaining the increase of gravity as the poles were approached, by
+the comparison of simultaneous observations taken with the mercurial and
+Aneroid barometers. Both instruments, in fact, gave a regular rule for
+calculating the weight of the atmosphere at the points of observation,
+with this single difference, that the ordinary barometer gives the weight
+by the pressure of the air upon a column of mercury, representing the
+weight of a similar column of air; while in the Aneroid barometer, the
+weight of the atmosphere is measured by an exhausted receiver, which, in
+resisting this pressure, indicates the amount by the tension of a spring.
+
+The indications of the Aneroid are moreover independent of the influence
+of universal gravity and the disturbing conditions it introduces into the
+instrument, to which the column of mercury is of course subject. Assuming,
+for example, that the ordinary barometer and the Aneroid gave the same
+readings, the similarity will no longer exist at a given distance from the
+Equator--the Aneroid, owing to the elimination of the disturbing element
+of gravity, indicating an increased pressure of the column of air, whereas
+the ordinary barometer will continue to indicate the same pressure as at
+the Equator. The difference between the two readings will, however, be
+directly proportionate to the amount of gravity thus got rid of, and is
+consequently susceptible of calculation. Although the data collected
+during the voyage for widely different purposes, and those now collected
+by means of the Aneroid, do not realize the anticipations that had been
+formed, to the length of utmost precision, the result has shown that much
+may be achieved in this direction by observations easily made in the
+course of a voyage even by ordinary navigators, such as would greatly
+benefit science; and captains of all grades, who in the course of their
+voyages have occasion to traverse these special latitudes, and are able to
+use good, reliable, thoroughly-tested instruments, might by a series of
+such observations add materially to our acquaintance with physical
+phenomena.[118]
+
+The _Novara_ sailed into the Atlantic with fair strong winds, and on 1st
+June was about the latitude of the Falklands,[119] that interesting group
+of islands, which have belonged to England since 1842. The few colonists
+at present resident there, not exceeding some hundreds in all, are
+maintained here at the expense of the British Government, and trade in
+skins and salt provisions. However, the annual cost of keeping up the
+colony does not amount to above £5000. Should the project of cutting a
+canal across the Isthmus of Central America, which has been the dream of
+centuries, ever be realized, the Falklands will become one of the most
+solitary spots on the face of the globe, owing to the entire abandonment
+of the route round Cape Horn, and as such would become admirably adapted
+for a penal colony. Judging, however, from the information respecting the
+southern parts of South America furnished by Admiral Fitzroy, so well
+known in connection with meteorological science, the eastern side of Terra
+del Fuego presents much greater advantages for such a project, and we
+cannot but feel surprised that England has not already founded an
+establishment there, where so many advantages are obvious at a glance,
+especially those relating to navigation.
+
+From the Falkland latitude, the _Novara_ steered nearly a great circle
+course, or, in other words, followed the shortest line of distance, to the
+point where she must pass through the "Horse latitudes," about 25° W. of
+Greenwich, and with favourable west winds, sometimes rather stormy, sped
+along at from 200 to 250 knots per diem on her homeward voyage. On 5th
+June, about 9 P.M., a sudden squall from W.N.W. struck the ship about the
+latitude of the most northerly part of Patagonia, so violent that had not
+the sails been taken in with all despatch, the very masts must have been
+blown out of the vessel, or at all events have sustained serious injury.
+Notwithstanding her being short of upper sails, the frigate heeled over
+more at this time than at any other period throughout the voyage.
+
+On 7th and 8th June, the _Novara_ encountered a severe tornado, about the
+latitude of the mouth of the La Plata. A violent wind, which blew from the
+N.N.E., on the 7th, hauled round by N. and N.N.W. to W.S.W., and reached
+its greatest power on the 8th, about 9 A.M., the wind being N.W. At this
+moment the motion of the ship was so great, and she laboured so heavily in
+the high short waves, that the boats on her lee quarter were in imminent
+danger of being swept overboard. By observations made it was found that
+she heeled over 38° to starboard and 12° to port, so that the entire
+amount of oscillation was 50°.
+
+Unfortunately one of the barometers got broke on this occasion; the
+officer, while observing it, being precipitated against it by a sudden
+roll of the ship. It was the most trustworthy instrument on board, and,
+albeit near the end of the voyage, it was not the less vexatious to have
+the series of admirable observations made with this instrument suddenly
+interrupted.
+
+The 11th June possessed an interest of its own for those on board the
+_Novara_, as on that day she crossed the course which she had followed
+two years before, in sailing from Rio to the Cape of Good Hope. Thus the
+actual circumnavigation had been successfully completed, and at least the
+material portion of the undertaking happily achieved.
+
+Meanwhile the wind, though still always favourable, had abated greatly
+from its first strength, and each day saw the barometer steadily rising.
+Even the sea-birds, those constant attendants of vessels, so long as they
+are in the extra-tropical latitudes of the Southern Ocean, now gradually
+began to cease flitting around the ship, as she approached the hot zones.
+
+On 15th June, in 25° 40' S., by 25° 9' W., the ship reached the S.E.
+trades. The weather was divine; the deep blue sky above, the exquisite
+tints of the atmosphere and the ocean, and the calm beauty of the long
+full-moon nights, exercised a most marked and beneficial influence upon
+the spirits and bodily health of the crew. Huge whales disported about,
+"blowing," as it is termed, immense masses of water into the air, like so
+many springs leaping from the bosom of the deep, or rushing upwards till
+half of their immense bodies emerged vertically from the water, into which
+they slowly plunged once more with a tremendous splash, the whole surface
+of the sea boiling and undulating as they fell back, athwart which might
+be seen dolphins gambolling about, or cleaving the blue depths with
+unmatched velocity. The S.E. trade blew with unbroken regularity, usually
+in its normal direction, but occasionally hauling up a little towards
+N.E., till, as we approached the Equator, it gradually blew steadily from
+the S.E.
+
+On 23rd June the Equator was reached and crossed for the sixth and last
+time in 26° 13' W. In 25 days the frigate had run in a direct line 3800
+nautical miles, or an average of 6-1/3 knots an hour.
+
+The very strongly-marked westerly current which prevails near the Equator
+materially lengthened the voyage, its strength in 2° 39' N. and 26° 14' W.
+being such that while the ship made 213 knots in the 24 hours upon her
+direct course, she was carried within the same period no fewer than 65
+miles in a direction of W. by N.
+
+The S.E. trade remained as such as far as 4° 36' N., 25° 38' W., when
+fresh N.E. breezes were encountered, and stayed by the ship till she
+reached 9° 54' N. by 29° 42' W. She now had to make her way slowly forward
+through a belt of calms, rain-squalls, and occasional puffs of wind from
+W. and S.W., till, at length, on 2nd July, the wind came on to blow from
+N.N.E., in 11° 47' N., by 29° 29' W.
+
+The French corvette _Eurydice_, which had laid her course for St. Helena,
+had on that account kept more to the eastward, and had crossed the line in
+about 22° W., and had in consequence lost so much more way than the
+_Novara_ that she took three days longer than our frigate to get from St.
+Helena to lat. 20° N., to which this other circumstance contributed, that
+the N.E. trade does not blow so strongly or so steadily in the vicinity
+of the Cape de Verd Islands as a little further out.
+
+On 7th July, in 22° 58' N., 36° 51' W., the _Novara_ reached the
+well-known Mar de Sargasso, a portion of the Atlantic Ocean, in which the
+current, setting from the coast of Africa, encounters a branch of the
+great gulf stream, and forms a basin of still water, in which is collected
+an immense mass of seaweed (_sargassum bacciferum_, etc.) which is
+propelled slowly forward in long ranks by the action of the wind.
+
+The 9th July was a day of mourning on board. One of the sailors, who for a
+year past had been ailing and almost constantly in sick bay, died, and was
+committed to the deep, the last victim during the voyage.
+
+Next day, in 37° 37' N., 39° 1' W., the N.E. trade began to draw to the
+eastward, and gradually became more favourable, but at the same time lost
+in strength, till on the 14th it failed entirely.
+
+Several ships now hove in sight, and as one of these by her course must
+obviously approach the frigate pretty close, it seemed a good opportunity
+to get news from Europe, which the voyagers had for 54 days been
+speculating upon with anxious hearts. Accordingly a boat was lowered from
+the frigate and sent to board the merchantman, which proved to be the brig
+_Hero_, Captain Williams. He had left Barcelona 50 days before, and was
+bound for New York. The captain accordingly was not in a position to
+satisfy the very natural curiosity of those on board the _Novara_ as to
+the turn affairs had taken in Europe, or to give them late intelligence
+of public events especially in Austria. A few half-torn newspaper leaves
+round some bottles of cognac was all that the most earnest wish to oblige
+could furbish up in the way of information. In the course of conversation
+with the captain, it was only casually elicited that war had broken out
+two months before. More than this the honest seaman did not know, feeling,
+in fact, much greater interest in securing a profitable freight for his
+ship than in the political state of Europe.
+
+As soon as the frigate's boat had returned, the officer in charge was met
+with a storm of questions and inquiries. His reply was very
+unsatisfactory, and little consolatory. Among the fragments of papers
+there was little that was important, still less that could give
+satisfaction, and, as usually happens under such circumstances, precisely
+at the spot where some news of our own country had been printed, the leaf
+was torn across, and the rest missing. Thus the anticipations formed of
+obtaining intelligence from the merchantman which should allay the anxiety
+on board had not merely failed to do so, but had in fact increased it in
+intensity, and the excitement caused by this episode on the minds of all
+on board reached almost fever heat. One would far sooner have encountered
+a tempest than such uncertainty, especially if it could have driven the
+frigate more rapidly towards her goal!
+
+On the 19th July, at midnight, with favourable west winds and a lovely
+moon, the _Novara_ passed between Flores and Corvo, through the narrow
+channel of the Azores Islands--the first land that had been sighted since
+the frigate left the west coast of South America, 71 days before! The fact
+that it was hit so accurately, also furnished satisfactory proof, in a
+scientific point of view, that the seven chronometers in use on board,
+despite 27 months of constant handling under the most varying and
+frequently unfavourable conditions, were still in perfect order, and
+indicated with admirable accuracy the longitude of the ship.
+
+Unfortunately--a circumstance to be expected in such latitudes in the
+height of summer--the ship now lost entirely the favouring gales which
+hitherto had filled her sails, and sped her rapidly on her course. When
+not above a few hundred miles distant from Gibraltar, those on board had
+to toss about for a number of days in calms that seemed as though they
+would never cease. Anxiety was at its height.
+
+
+                               FOOTNOTES:
+
+[101] In one single year (1854), the imports into Australia of Chilean
+grain amounted to £630,000. In a good year Chile produces 2,500,000
+fanegas (920,755 quarters) of wheat, 4,500,000 fanegas (1,855,054
+quarters) of barley, and 180,000 fanegas (16,071 tons) of beans. The
+_fanega_ varies in weight according to the article measured; thus a fanega
+of wheat is 165 lbs., of barley 155 lbs., and of beans 200 lbs.
+
+[102] That ships in good holding ground and with sound tackle are in no
+great danger riding out even a heavy storm in the roads, is best proved by
+the fact, that in the inner harbour there is a floating dry dock in use
+throughout the year, which, notwithstanding the occasionally severe
+weather while we were there, had a three-masted ship, full-rigged, masted
+and tackled upon it, with repairs of all sorts going on upon her sides.
+
+[103] About 1_s._ 1_d._; a dollar is about 4_s._ 4_d._, and a dollar has 8
+reals.
+
+[104] We must especially remark the large and valuable zoological
+collection with which our natural history stores were enriched by a German
+gentleman, Dr. C. Seget of Santiago de Chili. With similar liberality
+another gentleman, Mr. Friedrich Leybold, a Bavarian by birth, now
+resident in Santiago, where he practises as a chemist, presented the
+Expedition with several valuable geological and botanical specimens.
+
+[105] The charge for apartments of three persons (two sleeping and one
+drawing-room), including board, was 30 Spanish piastres=£6 6_s._ per diem!
+
+[106] The Chilean Mint is entirely arranged on the French system, and is
+provided with French machinery.
+
+[107] "Historia fisica y politica de Chile, segun documentos adquiridos en
+esta Republica durante doze años de residencia en ella, y publicado bajo
+los auspicios del supremo Gobierno por Claudio Gay, &c., Paris, 1844,
+8vo.;" besides two large quarto volumes, "Atlas de la historia fisica y
+politica de Chile."
+
+[108] The results of the great attention bestowed on public instruction
+have not been inadequate, as is apparent from the latest statistics on the
+subject, according to which the average proportion of the inhabitants, who
+can read and write, is 100 out of every 561 of the male population, and
+100 in 1095 of the females, or an average of 100 in every 828. In 1858,
+there were on the whole State 950 schools, attended by 39,657 scholars
+(viz. 27,288 male and 12,369 female). There is, however, a difference in
+these two statements of 6 per cent. The proportion of females to males
+_attending school_ is 45 to 100; of those able to read and write, of 51
+females to 100 males.
+
+[109] There are in the whole country 37 public and 12 private libraries
+(including in the latter only such as are really worthy of the name).
+
+[110] See Gay's History of Chile, Zoology, vol. i, p. 161.
+
+[111] The whole consumption of ice used in Valparaiso and Santiago is
+supplied by American ships, which take in their cargo at Boston, and sell
+it here at about 2-1/4d. per lb. It is cheaper to import the ice from
+America round the Horn than from the Andes, though the latter are only 50
+or 60 miles distant, and though ice is found on these at certain seasons
+at an elevation of only 6000 feet.
+
+[112] Mr. Haidinger, who at the very first exerted himself to the utmost
+of his ability and patriotism to promote the objects of the _Novara_
+Expedition, was so thoughtfully kind as to provide the geologist attached
+to it with a number of copies of publications of the Imperial Institute,
+as well as a corresponding number of neat little specimens of tertiary
+petrifactions from the Vienna basin, for the purpose of presenting them to
+kindred institutes in different quarters of the globe.
+
+[113] The lines of road already in operation or projected throughout Chile
+are as follows:--
+
+    _a._ From Valparaiso to Santiago, 110 miles, constructed at the
+    expense of the State, and estimated to cost $7,150,000
+    (£2,860,000). This had been opened when we were there, as far as
+    Guillota, 30 miles, but the whole was to be finished by 1862.
+
+    _b._ From Valparaiso to Talca (180 miles), and
+
+    _c._ From Port Caldera to Copiapó, the mining capital (50
+    miles), both constructed by private companies. From Copiapó a
+    tramway leads to Pabellar, whence there is a mule-road to the
+    mines of Chanarullo (4400 feet above sea-level). Mr. Evans had
+    invented a new description of locomotive, capable of climbing
+    even to this elevated region. Lastly, a road is projected to
+    unite Copiapó with the mining district of Tres Puntos.
+
+[114] See a very interesting "Essay" upon Chile, published at Hamburg by
+Señor Vicente Perez-Rosales, Consul-General for Chile at that port.
+
+[115] This estimate is founded on the following calculations:--
+
+  120,000 tons at $40 per ton, comes to $4,800,000, the annual
+  expenses of which, such as crew, insurance, &c., and
+  including interest for money invested, amounts to 30 per
+  cent. for 20 days                                                $80,000
+
+  Further saving of interest and insurance on goods valued at
+  $16,000,000 at 20 per cent. for 20 days                          177,776
+                                                                  --------
+  Total saving effected by vessels using the Straits of Magelhaen $257,776
+
+[116] The Steam-packet Company which now carries the mails twice a month
+from Valparaiso to the southern ports of Chile, receives an annual subsidy
+from Government of $50,000 (£10,500).
+
+[117] According to the reports of Mr. George Schuthe, governor of the
+little colony in the Straits of Magelhaen, some very valuable coal-strata
+exist near Punta Arenas. These, although difficult of access, would,
+nevertheless, fetch a high price, considering the high price of coal in
+the harbours along the east coast of South America. In Buenos Ayres and
+Monte Video, 12 to 15 days' sail distant, the average price of coal is 12
+dollars (£2 10_s._) per ton.
+
+[118] We cannot help stating here that we think it far from unimportant,
+that when employed to measure the altitude of prominent objects, the
+Aneroid may be made to supply widely different results from those of the
+ordinary barometer, as the elimination of gravity in the Aneroid readings
+remains as a constant element, and hence the difference between the two
+can only be rectified by due regard being had to this circumstance, when
+performing the requisite calculations.
+
+[119] This group, between 51° and 53° S., and 57° and 62° W., comprises,
+besides the two larger islands, 90 smaller islands, the superficial area
+of the whole being about 6000 square miles, or 3,840,000 acres. The summer
+temperature is 69°.8 Fahr. and that of winter rarely falls below 30°.2
+Fahr., so that the climate greatly resembles that of Scotland in many
+respects. The islands present a cheerless aspect; a rolling country with
+peat soil, covered with rank grasses, and intersected by low ranges of
+hills, alternating with marshy rivers and torrents. The lower part of the
+country is clay, slate, and sandstone, covered with turf, which is used
+for fuel. Tussock grass (_Dactylis cespitosa_) is the most common plant.
+
+
+            [Illustration: Station on the Panama Railway]
+
+
+
+
+                                  XXII.
+
+  An Overland Journey from Valparaiso to Gibraltar, _viâ_ the Isthmus of
+                                 Panama.
+
+                     16th May To 1st August, 1859.
+
+    Departure from Valparaiso.--Coquimbo.--Caldera.--Cobija.--
+    Iquique.--Manufacture of saltpetre.--Arica.--Port d'Islay.--
+    _Medanos_, or wandering sand-hills.--Chola.--Pisco.--The Chincha
+    or Guano Islands.--Remarks respecting the Guano or Huanu beds.--
+    Callao.--Lima.--Carrion crows, the principal street-scavengers.--
+    Churches and Monasteries.--Hospitals.--Charitable institutions.--
+    Medical College.--National Library.--Padre Vigil.--National
+    Museum.--The Central Normal School.--Great lack of intellectual
+    energy.--Ruins of Cajamarquilla.--Chorillos.--Temple to the Sun
+    at Pachacamác.--River Rimac.--Amancaes.--The new prison.--
+    Bull-fights.--State of society in Peru.--The _Coca_ plant, and
+    the latest scientific examination respecting its peculiar
+    properties.--The _China_, or Peruvian-bark tree.--Departure from
+    Lima.--Lambajeque.--Indian village of Iting.--Païta.--Island of
+    La Plata.--Taboga Island.--Impression made by the intelligence
+    of Humboldt's death.--Panama.--"Opposition" Line.--Immense
+    traffic.--The Railway across the Isthmus.--Aspinwall.--
+    Carthagena.--St. Thomas.--Voyage to Europe on board the R.M.S.
+    _Magdalena_.--Falmouth.--Southampton.--London.--Rejoin the
+    _Novara_ at sea.--Arrival at Gibraltar.
+
+
+Five days after the departure of the _Novara_, I left the roads of
+Valparaiso on board the mail steamer _Callao_. The weather was
+exceedingly unfavourable, the rain falling in torrents, while a heavy
+tumbling sea made the embarkation of the numerous passengers and their
+effects a process anything but agreeable. I have, therefore, the greater
+pleasure in expressing my gratitude for the courtesy of the Captain of
+H.M.S. _Ganges_, who sent his own gig to take me off to the steamer, and
+to the numerous friends, who despite the stormy weather had assembled on
+board to bid me a last farewell, and provide me with letters of
+introduction to the authorities and most influential persons of the more
+important of the localities I was about to visit. At 2 P.M. the shore bell
+sounded, a little boat made its appearance on the port side, pitching
+heavily in the swell, and a long thin figure stepped on deck. This proved
+to be Captain Stewart of the _Louisa_, whose acquaintance I had formed at
+the island of Tahiti, and who now, half breathless, handed me a small
+packet with the following endorsement,--"These are the extracts you
+requested from my journal, and which I promised to prepare for you on my
+first voyage from Norfolk Island to Pitcairn." They consisted in fact of
+those remarks upon the latest phase of the strange destiny of the Pitcairn
+Islanders, which have already appeared in a previous chapter. The worthy
+Captain had kept his word with true John Bull punctuality. A few moments
+more and the _Callao_ was steaming out of Valparaiso Roads, on her voyage
+northwards.
+
+Although the boats of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company plying between
+Valparaiso, Callao de Lima, and Panama, are tolerably large, clean, and
+elegantly fitted, yet the number of passengers for intermediate ports make
+them anything but a comfortable mode of travel. For, notwithstanding the
+high fares,[120] it is necessary to crowd three or four passengers into
+each state-room, which in the heat of the tropics is most inconvenient,
+and at times almost intolerable. Personally, however, I had no reason to
+complain on this score, as all the captains of the various steamers in
+which I journeyed north, so soon as my connection with the _Novara_
+Expedition was known, at once, with the most marked courtesy and
+attention, secured to me a state-room for my own exclusive use, and
+whenever we reached a port, placed their own boats at my disposal during
+our stay.
+
+The morning after we left Valparaiso, we reached Coquimbo, where, a few
+weeks before (24th April, 1859), a severe action had been fought between
+the Chilean troops and those of Pedro Gallo, the former proving
+victorious. Coquimbo is a small town of about 2000 souls, whose sole claim
+to importance is its proximity to some rich copper-mines. M. Longomasino,
+one of the many victims of the _coup d'état_ of the second December, who,
+the reader will recollect, received permission to make the voyage from
+Tahiti to Valparaiso on board the _Novara_, was among our passengers; he
+left the steamer at Coquimbo, intending to go to the adjoining mining town
+of Serena (20,000 souls), where, through the kindness of friends, he had
+been invited to edit a political paper.
+
+Here I went on board the British corvette _Amethyst_, which just a year
+before had been lying alongside of the _Novara_ in Singapore harbour, and
+was received by her excellent commander with a most cordial welcome. To my
+astonishment I found a number of civilians on board: refugees, who had
+taken an active part in the late insurrection, and who now, when all hope
+of success was over, sought an asylum on British soil, for such is the
+deck of an English man-of-war, and, thanks to British political
+proclivities, had been cordially received there.
+
+About 11 P.M. the same night we were off the insignificant little harbour
+of Huasco, and about nine next morning ran into Caldera, a dreary-looking
+little place of some 2000 inhabitants, built upon one of a succession of
+sand-slopes. There is not a trace of vegetation; no foliage, no shrubs, no
+patches of grass,--all around as far as the eye could reach was a
+cheerless waste of sand. Only extraordinary opportunities for money-making
+could have induced the inhabitants to settle in this desolate wilderness,
+deficient in the very first necessity of life--fresh water. Every drop of
+this most important beverage has at present to be brought from 90 miles
+inland, so that a cask containing some 15 gallons costs 31 cents or 1_s._
+4_d._ English. The charge for supplying water alone to 90 or 100 workmen
+amounts to 40 dollars, or £8 8_s._, a week! At the time I visited it, the
+people were negotiating for the erection of a steam distilling apparatus,
+for procuring fresh water from the sea, at a less cost than was paid
+previously. From Caldera, a locomotive line of rail leads to the mining
+town of Copiapó, 71 miles inland, in the vicinity of which are rich mines
+of silver and copper. This enterprise has proved so remunerative, that,
+although its construction cost 2,500,000 dollars (£525,000 or about £7400
+a mile), the shareholders receive an annual dividend of 16 per cent.
+
+I visited the copper-smelting kilns, which belong to an English company,
+and produce annually from 1800 to 2000 tons of almost virgin copper (90 to
+96 per cent.), in ingots and pigs, as they are termed, an ingot weighing
+from 16 to 18 lbs avoirdupois. The ore, as at first found in the mines of
+Copiapó, has barely 18 to 36 per cent. of copper, and has to undergo six
+or seven smeltings before it becomes sufficiently pure to be sold at a
+profit in the markets of Europe. The smelting-furnace produces about seven
+tons of copper per diem, at a consumption of 60 tons of coal,[121] which
+is imported from Swansea, partly from Pennsylvania, and is worth 12 to 15
+dollars per ton of 2240 lbs. The rate of wages at Caldera remains pretty
+steady at two to three dollars per diem, and this is the reason why the
+enterprise is less remunerative than would be the case if wages were
+lower.
+
+The total annual yield of the copper and silver mines of the department of
+Copiapó is worth about 14,000,000 dollars, and gives employment to from
+6000 to 7000 labourers, or one-third the entire population of the
+district.
+
+On 20th May we anchored off Cobija, the sole harbour possessed by Bolivia
+on the west coast, and with a population of 1000. The state of affairs in
+Bolivia affords a marked example of how closely the development of a
+country is connected with the fact of its possessing more or less of
+sea-coast. How great is the commerce, the. prosperity, and the
+civilization of Chile, a proportionally small strip of not over-fertile
+soil, but the entire extent of which is sea-coast, compared with the
+poverty and barbarism of the interior state of Bolivia, so admirably
+fitted by nature for raising all manner of valuable produce, but whose
+sole means of communication with the rest of the world is through one
+insignificant harbour!
+
+The same day we reached Iquique, the southernmost harbour of Peru, with a
+population of about 4000, and which quite recently has increased greatly
+in importance, owing to the trade in saltpetre, which is found in immense
+quantities all along this rainless coast, and of which 1,000,000
+hundredweight (50,000 tons) are exported annually to England, North
+America, and Germany, in which countries it is extensively and
+beneficially used for manure.[122] Here we found lying at anchor a large
+merchantman, the _Victorine_ of Bordeaux, 3000 tons burthen, which was
+taking in a full cargo, exclusively, of this valuable product. The
+saltpetre is found between beds of clay from one to six feet below the
+surface, boiled in large vats to free it from impurities,[123] and dried
+in the form of cakes, which are packed for shipment in sacks of 250 lbs.
+It is worth, if purified, 21 reals (about 11_s._ 4_d._) per cwt. on the
+spot, and fetches £16 to £17 per ton in England. Upon a rough calculation,
+the quantity of saltpetre along the coast of Peru at an average breadth of
+30 miles amounts to 60,000,000 tons, enough to maintain the existing
+supply[124] for at least another thousand years. The rate of wages of the
+men engaged in the trade, owing to the scarcity of labour, is from two to
+three dollars per diem! The scarcity of water at Iquique is so great, that
+the town has to be supplied by means of a distilling apparatus, an
+undertaking the gross daily receipts of which are six hundred dollars! For
+the precious element has to be purchased not merely for men but animals;
+the price, for example, for a male to drink _ad libitum_ is one real,
+about 8-1/2_d._
+
+Tincal, or Biborate of Soda, is also largely found all along the coast,
+but the export was long prohibited, the suspicious jealousy of the
+Peruvian Government seeking to obtain first of all conclusive evidence of
+the value of this natural product, and the best means of making it
+contribute to the State treasury. At present about 200 tons, worth from
+£16 to £20 per ton, are exported annually. As we lay at anchor off
+Iquique, numbers of natives shot about with arrow-like rapidity in their
+exceedingly primitive boats, made of seal-skins fastened together in
+canoe-fashion. To avoid overturns, these curious specimens of naval
+architecture have bladders attached on either side!
+
+The heat now began to be very perceptible. The bare, treeless, almost
+perpendicular sand-bluffs along the coast, impart to it a dreary aspect,
+which even the rocky chain immediately behind, rising some 2000 to 4000
+feet, scarcely succeeds in softening. A great number of the passengers,
+mostly Peruvians, indemnified themselves for the cheerless monotony of the
+prospect on deck, by intense devotion to the mysteries of the green table
+in the saloon. All through the day, till far on in the night, the painted
+pasteboard flew from hand to hand. The favourite game was Rocambor,
+something like Ombre, diversified with Monte and dice, and for very high
+sums. I saw ten condors (£21) laid upon a single card. A few elderly
+gentlemen sat regularly in a distant corner of the saloon, where they
+played assiduously from nine in the morning till midnight without
+interruption. One wealthy Peruano, well known along this coast, in the
+course of a single voyage is said to have lost 80,000 dollars (£16,800)!!
+
+On 20th May we anchored in Arica, an elegant seaport of some 7000
+inhabitants, surrounded by beautiful luxuriant gardens, and which, though
+belonging to Peru, may be considered as the chief outlet for the produce
+of Northern Bolivia, since Tacna, the most important manufacturing town of
+that State, with a population of 12,000, is only nine English miles
+distant, lying at the foot of the Cordillera, while La Paz, the capital of
+the Republic, with a population of 75,000, is 288 miles distant, and is
+easiest reached from Arica. The political division of Bolivia is a crying
+injustice to that lovely country and its industrious population. The
+harbour of Arica belongs by natural position to Bolivia and not to Peru;
+commercial interests and general intercourse unite it far more intimately
+with Northern Bolivia than with Peru. The chief exports of Arica are
+silver, copper, alpaca wool, cinchona bark, chinchilla furs, cotton, and
+tin. There are also two steam flour-mills within the little town in full
+operation; the grain comes from the interior, and is shipped as flour to
+the various harbours along the coast. A railroad from Arica to Tacna
+greatly facilitates traffic and commerce, but further in the interior all
+intercourse is carried on by means of narrow mule-paths.[125]
+
+The houses, constructed for the most part of sun-dried bricks all along
+the coast of Peru, where rain is absolutely unknown, and even the
+dew-deposit is trifling, are flat, barely roofed in with thin strips of
+cane, and consequently when seen from the street have a very untidy
+appearance. Unfortunately these terrace-like roofs are likewise the sole
+receptacles for the refuse of the house, and any one who, in order to get
+a better view, ventures to ascend one of the adjoining dazzling white
+sand-heaps, will long remember the filthy but unique spectacle which
+greets his eye.
+
+Immediately outside of the suburb of Chimba, the desolate nature of the
+country comes conspicuously into view. I next walked to one of the nearest
+sand-hills, because I was assured that there were numerous graves of
+queens to be found there, as well as quantities of mummies. Owing to the
+extreme dryness of the atmosphere, the skulls of the dead which here lay
+scattered upon the surface of the soil, seemed as though they were so many
+anatomical preparations. Even some dead bodies of animals showed no
+symptoms of decomposition, but had been perfectly dried. The peculiarity
+of the meteorological conditions, the extreme dryness of the atmosphere,
+and the saline impregnation of the soil, have very much more to do with
+these marvellous antiseptic appearances than any indigenous skill in
+embalming the Indian corpses; since, even now, when the brown
+Catholicized Peruvians have lost none of their old superstitions, though
+they have abandoned most of their former arts and customs, the dead
+committed to the earth without further preparation, present the same
+mummified appearance when disinterred. I took away with me the skull of an
+Indian, from the neighbourhood of Arica, which was remarkable for the
+singular malformation resulting from compression by circular bandages.
+
+This artificial disfigurement of the skull has its origin in the peculiar
+customs of several Indian races of both North and South America, of
+mechanically altering the form of the cranium in the new-born infant. Of
+the difference in point of beauty of the different Indian races along the
+west coast of North America, a clear indication is afforded by the profile
+of the head of a native of Puget Sound, Oregon territory, for which I am
+indebted to the kindness of Dr. Ried of Valparaiso, he having been
+presented with it in 1856, by the medical officer of an American
+man-of-war. Here, in strong contrast with the oblong form of the cranium
+of an Indian from the neighbourhood of Arica, it appears that the skull
+has been flattened transversely, by pressure between two boards.
+
+At first one is disposed to attribute the squeezed-in appearance of the
+head, remarked in different Indian races, here lengthened in an unsightly
+degree, there hideously flattened, to some freak of nature; but more
+accurate investigations leave no doubt that the deformity in question, in
+whatever form, is the result of pressure artificially applied, and that
+this displacement of the brain is not confined to individuals, but is
+characteristic of entire tribes, yet without any sensible diminution of
+the intellectual faculties, or morbidity in their exercise.
+
+The valley of Azapa, three Spanish leagues (nine miles English) distant
+from Arica, is very fertile, and a good soil, but badly supplied with
+water. However, at an expense of a few millions of dollars, a
+communication might easily be established with the waters of the river
+Arica, the expense of which would be amply repaid by the increased
+productive power thus given to the valley. Sugar-cane, vintage-grape,
+oranges, pine-apples, olives, and vegetables of every description, could
+forthwith be raised, and advantageously disposed of at Arica.
+
+Among the Germans resident in Arica, we formed the acquaintance of M.
+Colmann, a merchant, and Consul for Chile, as also of Dr. Mittendorf, the
+latter of whom is physician to the Railway Company here. By the latter
+gentleman we were told that cuticular diseases, dysentery, and
+intermittent fevers were the most common ailments, but that on the whole
+the climate of Arica is healthy, and that many cases of illness were
+solely attributable to the irregular, licentious mode of life of the
+natives. Although it hardly ever rains, yet during the summer season
+(January to March), when the snows begin to melt in the interior, and
+tremendous falls of rain occur on the Cordillera, the beds of the rivers
+become torrents, wheeling along vast volumes of water to the sea, and
+partly sinking into the soil, so that, at a depth of two or three feet,
+one comes upon water, or, at all events, moisture, while the surface
+remains burned to a cake. A little canalization of the river-bed, and
+damming up the water, so as to have a permanent reservoir, would not
+merely secure a better supply of water, but would most beneficially
+influence the salubrity of the neighbourhood. The river dries up entirely
+every year in the months of July and August, during which accordingly
+occur the largest number of cases of sickness, and it seems the more
+necessary that measures of some sort should be at once taken to control
+the water, as otherwise there is reason to fear that unless artificial
+dykes and dams be constructed, the bed of the river will gradually be
+sanded up, when the whole district will be worse off for water than ever;
+since with each successive year's floods, as they dash down from the
+mountains, a perceptible falling off in quantity has been remarked, so
+that whereas ten years ago the bed of the river was full for four or five
+months together, at present it is rarely full so long as two months in
+all.
+
+On 22nd May, we entered the little harbour of Port d'Islay, the access to
+which is very difficult. The settlement itself stands on a steep rock, 150
+feet high, descending almost perpendicularly into the sea on all sides, so
+that the only landing-place is a mole, which communicates with the village
+above by an iron ladder. The well-known traveller, Count Castelnau, who in
+the course of a scientific expedition through South America visited this
+port in 1848, prophesied a splendid future for it; but I do not believe
+that its commerce has materially increased since then.
+
+The sole claim to consideration of Port d'Islay consists in its proximity
+to Arequipa, a city of 40,000 inhabitants, and the variety of valuable
+natural products which abound in that fertile section of country, from
+which, however, the port is separated by a sand-barren, 36 miles in width
+and 120 in length, the city of Arequipa itself being 7500 feet above the
+sea, at the foot of the volcano of the same name,[126] and amid a
+magnificent scenery.
+
+The dreary waste between Port d'Islay and Arequipa is continually swept by
+drift sand, which, by constantly obstructing the road, renders travelling
+thither absolutely unsafe, and indeed frequently dangerous to life. For
+the unfortunate who misses his way amid these wastes is lost beyond all
+possibility of succour. The wandering sand-columns or _medanos_,[127]
+formed of drift sand, present a singular appearance as they spin along
+before a S.E. wind, admirably described by Tschudi in his valuable
+Sketches of Travel in Peru. These extraordinary pillars, which constantly
+change both their form and position, and complete the perplexity of the
+traveller, are usually semi-circular, 8 or 10 feet high, and from 20 to 50
+feet wide, but occasionally they are seen 50 feet in height, when their
+diameter is about 150 feet. They are of most frequent occurrence in the
+hot season, when the parched sand obeys the slightest impulse of the
+atmosphere, whereas in winter, owing to the deposition of a fine
+penetrating dew (_garua_), which all along the coast of Peru supplies the
+place of rain, which is never seen, the sand increases in weight, and the
+basis of the column is solidified, so to speak, by the moisture absorbed.
+Between Port d'Islay and Arequipa, the _medanos_ are first encountered
+about 18 miles inland, or nearly half-way across the sand-barren.
+
+In the dells near the harbour volcanic ashes are occasionally found at
+certain spots, whereas they are never discovered further inland, nor near
+the volcano of Arequipa, which since the memory of man has never been
+known to be in a state of activity, and whose beautiful cone, not unlike
+that of Ometepec in Nicaragua, seems to be densely wooded up to the very
+summit. Apparently these are the remains of former eruptions of a
+neighbouring volcano, which have been borne towards the coast by the
+prevailing winds. The ashes themselves have no saline constituents, and
+are used by the natives in the manufacture of sun-dried clay-bricks
+(_adobes_), the quality of which they materially improve.
+
+We made an excursion to a churchyard in the vicinity of d'Islay, where the
+skulls of some half a hundred human beings lay exposed to view. They all
+seemed to have been bleached by exposure, and were in good preservation,
+so that on many might still be discovered heavy heads of hair. The eyes
+had shrivelled up into the skull, and were by no means gleaming and
+crystal-like as is alleged of those found in Indian graves, and offered
+for sale to strangers. These so-called "crystallized human eyes," of which
+an Italian curiosity dealer of Arica possessed one or two sacks-full,
+belong to a species of mollusca (_Loligo gigas_), and were used by the
+Indians to adorn their dead. To this circumstance must be attributed the
+great number that are to be found in the graves in the neighbourhood of
+Arica.
+
+We continued to coast along during the entire night. The number of
+passengers, especially of those on the "'tween decks," had again
+increased. Among the late arrivals was an Austrian, a Tyrolese, from
+Iquique, who was travelling into the interior of Peru. This man, seduced
+by dazzling promises, had in 1856 emigrated to Peru with 293 of his
+fellow-countrymen, and after two years of the most terrible hardships and
+privations, at last succeeded in finding employment at the salt mines of
+Iquique. He was now earning 3 dols. a day (12_s._ 6_d._), and was on his
+way to fetch his family away from the colony of Pozúzu, and taking them
+with him to the scene of his labours. That none of his countrymen did not
+follow him was, as he explained to us, in consequence of one of the
+colonists, "a half student," dissuading them from doing so, and himself
+leading them to try their luck at another spot, where unfortunately they
+had to battle with want in its severest form. I have rarely seen any man
+so excited and agitated at the sound of his native tongue as this hearty
+specimen of the sons of the Alps, when I addressed him "in good Austrian,"
+and shook him by the hand. The reader will find further on, in the account
+of my stay at Lima, a more full account of the Tyrolese colony at Pozúzu,
+its present condition and possible future.
+
+On 23rd May, at 6 A.M., the steamer anchored off Chala, which first
+attained the dignity of a seaport in 1857, being intended to facilitate
+intercourse and increase the trade with Cuzco. Chala is the nearest
+harbour to the ancient capital of the Incas, 240 miles distant. Though
+singularly ill-adapted for a port, being, in fact, nothing but an open
+roadstead, Chala bids fair to become a place of some importance, so soon
+as the country is at peace, and a good road is constructed hence to Cuzco,
+so as to be able to convey with dispatch the numerous valuable products of
+Cuzco. When we visited it, the little settlement, barely a year old, had
+212 inhabitants, in some thirty wooden huts extending along the sandy
+shore. The chief exports are wool and copper, the latter being found at
+Chaipa and Atiquipa, nine miles N. of Chala.
+
+The following morning, after passing the _Barracoon_ of Pisco, a rather
+dangerous passage beset with low islands between Barraca Head (on
+Sangallan Island) and Huasco Head (a projecting headland of the mainland),
+we reached Pisco, also nothing but an open roadstead, the tremendous surf
+in which does not admit of ships approaching within two or three miles of
+the shore. Several years before a Mr. Wheelwright had commenced to
+construct a mole here, to project some hundreds of feet into the sea, so
+as to facilitate the loading and unloading of ships and the embarkation of
+passengers, but the works were still unfinished, and indeed would need to
+be very largely added to ere the object aimed at could possibly be
+obtained. On the declivity of Barraca Head sloping seaward are visible
+three marks in the form of crosses, which, according to tradition, were
+made in the sand by the pious monks of former centuries. Their size must
+indeed be colossal, since, though we passed from four to five miles off,
+the outlines of the three figures were plainly visible. Well-known as this
+phenomenon is to everybody, no one has ever had the curiosity to make an
+excursion thither from Pisco, so as to clear up the fact of their being
+actually the work of human hands, or, as seems more probable, simply
+columns of drift sand, like the _medanos_ of Arica, thrown into this
+fantastic shape by the caprice of some passing storm.
+
+The chief staple of cultivation at Pisco, and throughout the province, is
+the vine. I never tasted such delicate, juicy, luscious grapes as those I
+got there. They are chiefly used in the manufacture of the well-known
+"Pisco," a sort of "Aguardiente" (burning water, sc. brandy), the
+consumption of which is extraordinarily great. There were also fruits in
+most diverse profusion, chirimoyas (a species of anona), bananas,
+aguacales, mangoes, pine-apples, lemons, oranges, peaches, apples, pears,
+&c., which are grown here of the most delicate description for the market
+of Lima.
+
+Pisco is the first point along the entire barren coast at which the
+traveller, since leaving Valparaiso, sees the shores covered once more
+with vegetation. With inexpressible relief the eye rests upon the green
+carpet which, on all sides, gleams forth, even between and among the
+houses. The place has about 3000 inhabitants, and possesses numerous
+churches, whose lofty belfries impart to it quite the appearance of a
+large town. About 45 miles inland, in a lovely and fertile valley, lies
+the large city of Ica, with which there is considerable traffic, and the
+chief product of which is also the grapevine. Ten English miles N. of
+Pisco, and, in fact, opposite the town, are the renowned Chincha or Guano
+Islands, and towards these our course was now directed. These are three
+small islands rising close to each other out of the bosom of the sea, the
+most north-easterly of which has been the most stripped. Here also is the
+chief village, consisting of upwards of 100 wooden huts, inhabited by some
+200 to 250 persons. In 1858 there were some 2000 men living on the
+islands, while several hundred ships at a time would be lying at anchor in
+the harbour, loading with the valuable excretions of innumerable
+sea-fowls, of which the islands chiefly consist. When we visited them, the
+depredations had somewhat fallen off, the number of labourers was
+diminishing, and there were only a few vessels in the harbour.
+
+The islands have a melancholy, naked, barren look; the same substance
+which, in smaller quantity, contributes so powerfully to promote the
+productiveness of the soil, to which it is applied, here stifles all
+vegetation, by reason of its very abundance, and fails to show any trace
+of that fertilizing principle which lies concealed within it.
+
+The northern island is about 4200 feet long, and 1500 to 1800 feet wide.
+Its height is from 150 to 180 feet. The _Huanu_,[128] consisting of the
+excrement of various descriptions of sea-birds, chiefly sea-mews,
+sea-ravens, divers, and _laridæ_, forms strata, sometimes of a
+greyish-brown, sometimes of a rusty red colour, which at some points
+attain a thickness of 120 feet. The huts of the settlers are erected on
+the very guano beds. A handsome, comfortable hotel has latterly been
+added. All the necessaries of life, even drinking-water, have to be
+brought from the mainland, 14 miles distant. Living, consequently, is very
+expensive on the island, though there is anything but privation, or even
+lack of enjoyment. One of the inhabitants, a Swede, who has a small store
+on the island, observed to me, "We live as well and comfortably on the
+Chincha Islands as anywhere on the globe, and have occasionally even music
+and a dance!"
+
+In May, 1859, the population consisted of 50 Europeans, 50 Chinese, and
+250 Peruanos and Negroes. The majority were labourers, who were in great
+request as "_Mangueros_" or "_Abarrotadores_," and were busily engaged in
+excavating the indurated excrement, and transporting it to the various
+points for lading. The daily wages of the free labourers was 1 dollar 50
+cents (about 6_s._ 3_d._) per diem; the Chinese, on the other hand,
+received only 5 dollars per month, and a daily ration of rice. One
+Peruvian planter, Domingo Elias, had imported at his own cost several
+hundred Chinese coolies, who, like those in the West Indies, were to pay
+in labour for the expense of their voyage. The remuneration given to these
+hardy sons of the Middle Empire was of the scantiest. While they had to
+work alongside of convicts, longer and harder than any other class of
+labourers, they only received one-tenth of the pay of the latter.
+
+The sanitary condition of the settlement was described to me as
+exceedingly favourable. The guano-getters contribute the smallest
+contingent to the sick list, and even the strong, penetrating, and
+exceedingly disagreeable stench of the substance, impregnated as it is
+with ammonia, seems to have not the slightest prejudicial effect upon the
+lungs, pulmonary complaints hardly ever making their appearance among the
+workmen. So far from this being the case, it is even contended that
+persons suffering under affections of the lungs derive benefit in the
+first stage of the malady from a residence in the Huanu Islands, and find
+themselves in improved health on their return to the mainland.
+
+The centre island has been only partially excavated, but the works there
+have been discontinued. At present it is entirely uninhabited, though
+there are still visible on its summit a few wooden huts, which formerly
+sheltered the workmen, as also some of the "shoots" or slides used for
+facilitating the collection and shipment of the guano.
+
+The southernmost of the three islands is quite in its primitive state,
+never having been touched. No sign indicative of man's presence on it is
+anywhere visible.
+
+The earliest attempts to export guano to Europe as a manure were made in
+1832, but they proved so losing a speculation, that not till eight years
+later did the Peruvian mercantile house of Messrs. Quiros again direct
+attention to the importance of guano as an article of export, when the
+Government of Peru granted them, for a fixed sum, the exclusive privilege
+of exporting guano for six years. This gave an opportunity for
+instituting, on a sufficient scale, those experiments which, it will be
+remembered, Mr. Meyer of Liverpool was making at that period, and which
+was followed by such surprising results.
+
+From March to October, 1841, 23 vessels conveyed 6125 tons of guano to
+England, Hamburg, Antwerp, and Bordeaux. In November of the same year, the
+English barque _Byron_ brought to Peru the cheering intelligence that a
+ton of guano was selling in England for £28 per ton. This totally
+unexpected and startling result induced the Government, by a decree of
+17th November, to declare that the agreement with Messrs. Quiros was
+cancelled, and fresh offers for the privilege of shipping guano were
+invited from speculators.
+
+Since that period the exportation of this important manure has attained
+unprecedented dimensions in every part of the globe. Of late years it has
+reached the enormous amount of 500,000 tons from these islands alone, and
+the revenue to the Government has been 12,000,000 to 15,000,000 dollars.
+
+The contractors sell the guano in Europe for account of the Peruvian
+Government, and receive for it a commission fee of from 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 per
+cent. of the gross amount; for this they get, moreover, paid 5 per cent.
+of interest for outlays and pecuniary advances (pretty considerable) which
+they make to the native Government. The contracts are generally entered
+into for four years.
+
+A complete exploration and survey of the islands was made in 1853 by M. C.
+Faraguet, a French engineer. According to his report, which was pretty
+comprehensive, and drawn up under the co-operation of several other
+scientific gentlemen, the quantity of guano on the northernmost island, in
+September, 1853, was 4,189,477 Peruvian tons (about 3,740,866 tons
+English); the middle island about 2,237,954 English tons, and the
+southernmost 5,072,032 English tons; or the entire cubical mass was at
+that period about 11,050,852 tons English. Assuming an average price, this
+would imply a money value of about £120,000,000. Since 1841, when the
+first considerable shipment was made, to 1861, there had been exported
+from the Chincha Islands 3,000,000 tons of guano, worth about 135,000,000
+dollars (£29,250,000).
+
+At first, owing to the enormous mass of guano left to accumulate
+undisturbed for centuries, the very natural error was made of reckoning
+the quantity deposited at too high an estimate, and the amount annually
+taken at too low a figure.[129] Hence it happened that a few native and
+many foreign writers have spoken of these islands as affording a supply
+which only centuries could exhaust. It is now, however, ascertained that,
+supposing the export proceeds at its present rate, only 25 to 30 years
+will elapse ere the entire strata of excremental manure of all the three
+Chincha Islands will have been carried off!
+
+Notwithstanding ample supplies of guano have been discovered besides all
+along the west coast of South America, on uninhabited islands and
+promontories, and upwards of 7,000,000 tons of this valuable commodity
+been found on the islands south of Callao alone,[130] yet, even should
+this statement turn out correct, it would only supply the existing demand
+for other 10 or 15 years, while the formation of beds of guano must year
+after year become more and more confined to solitary, inaccessible islands
+of the Southern Ocean. For so soon as such beds of guano begin to be
+explored, they are quickly abandoned by the birds, which are gradually
+retreating from the islands along the coast and the usual channels of
+commerce.
+
+The Peruvian Government does not seem to realize the calamity impending
+over the country on the exhaustion of the guano beds, which would dry up
+one of its principal sources of revenue. Certainly it seems impossible to
+make a more unwise use of the immense sums which are flowing into the
+State treasury. Nothing is done for making roads or railways so as to
+furnish intercourse with the fertile provinces of the interior, or to
+raise and encourage agriculture or commerce. Just as this revenue does not
+result from the energy or industrial activity of the people, it is
+expended without any object of utility to show for it. The Government
+pockets the dues as a monopoly, and expends the sums thus obtained in
+avaricious schemes of aggrandizement, or warlike expeditions against
+Ecuador and Bolivia, which keep the country in perpetual hot water, and
+only add to its burthens. The guano duties go in gunpowder! Lightly won,
+as lightly gone!
+
+During the nine days of our voyage between Valparaiso and Callao de Lima
+there were some musicians on board, who gave us a concert on deck every
+evening. As we left the Chincha Islands some frolicsome young Peruvians,
+disregarding the discord of the flute and violin, and unmindful of the
+timeless tuneless twanging of the two harps, got up a dance.
+
+In the course of the night we ran into Callao harbour, and when I came on
+deck, in the cool of the morning, I found we were already lying at anchor
+in this spacious and secure port. The tradition that with a calm sea and a
+clear sky it is possible to perceive the ruins of the old town, with its
+houses and church-towers, which sank here suddenly in 1746 by the shock of
+an earthquake, has survived to the present day, and is told to every
+new-comer, who greedily swallows it down, though not one of the narrators
+has ever beheld the marvel with his own eyes! Earthquakes, indeed, are by
+no means so frequent as at the beginning of the present century, when it
+was rare for a fortnight to elapse without at least one _temblore_ or
+horizontal oscillation. The vertical shocks (_terra-motos_), the most
+dangerous kind of earthquake, have not occurred here since 1828. The
+season at which earthquakes most frequently occur are the months of March,
+April, and September, whence the latter month has received from the people
+the jocular name of "_Se tiembla!_" (it trembles!) One Peruvian who has
+long occupied himself with scientific observations has repeatedly
+witnessed that a magnet, freely suspended, regularly lost its attractive
+powers a few minutes before each shock, and that a piece of steel held by
+the magnetic force fell to the ground. If this be confirmed by a series of
+observations the magnet might ultimately become a sort of
+earthquake-monitor.
+
+The Callao of the present day is a dirty, ugly hole, with narrow streets,
+and low houses built principally of mud and cane, with flat roofs. Only a
+few of the houses of foreigners, erected out of hearing of the hubbub of
+the port, form a grateful exception. The entire population will be about
+20,000 souls.
+
+The most interesting building of the port is undoubtedly the new Custom
+House with 31 colossal magazines, each capable of containing six to eight
+entire ships' freights. I repeatedly heard complaints made of the
+slovenliness of the attendants, in consequence of which it frequently
+happened that days elapsed ere goods, paid for, were delivered out of
+bond. The warehouse charge is very small, and consists chiefly of
+stamp-duties, which are imposed on the money paid for goods. The trade of
+Callao is apparently on the increase, and, considering the productiveness
+of the country, would be even greater, were internal order restored, when
+peace and confidence would follow in its train.
+
+As I had to prosecute my journey northwards by the next steamer, I
+hastened on to Lima, so as to satisfy my curiosity as to this the most
+important city of Peru in modern days. A few hours after my arrival in
+Callao, I found myself on the road to the "City of the Kings."[131] Only a
+few years back the journey from Callao to Lima, though only six English
+miles, was an exceedingly arduous and even dangerous undertaking. The road
+lay through a shadeless desert of deep sand, between uncultivated fields
+and low scrubs, and was absolutely unsafe owing to attacks of robbers. Now
+it is a frequent excursion, a tolerably good railroad performing the
+distance in about half an hour.
+
+By the kindness of Mr. Wilhelm Brauns, the Consul-General of Hamburg, and
+head of the distinguished English house Huth, Grüning, and Co.,[132] to
+whom I brought letters of introduction, and who was most kindly in
+waiting for me. I was speedily and pleasantly conveyed from the station in
+Lima, to take up my quarters in his house till I took my leave. Owing to
+this fortunate event, I found myself unexpectedly brought into the very
+thick of the very best German society. Nowhere in the course of many years
+of travel in various countries, all over the globe, did I meet with more
+cordial hospitality, or a more delightful reception, than during my 19
+days' stay in the "City of the Kings."
+
+On our way from the station to the house of Mr. Brauns, I remarked that
+the houses in every part of the city that we passed were painted with
+variegated stripes, and heard, to my intense astonishment, that, in
+consequence of a recent decree of the Government, every householder in
+each quarter was ordered, with a view to facilitating the identification
+of their houses, to paint them of a colour corresponding with the coloured
+official plans of the city! Accordingly in one quarter all the houses were
+green, in another yellow, in a third white, in a fourth reddish, and in a
+fifth sky-blue. As in all Spanish American cities exposed to earthquakes,
+most of the houses in Lima also are but one storey high. The larger
+buildings are constructed of sun-dried bricks or fire clay, the smaller of
+cane set up double, with the space between filled up with clay, and the
+whole whitewashed. Their most singular feature is the flat roofs, which
+consist of a layer of cane and straw mats, which, for better security,
+occasionally have a coating of clay. Thus an open space (_Azotea_),
+surrounded by balustrades, is secured, which is used as a playground by
+children, and serves as a promenade for the grown-up portion of the
+community. Some of the windows communicate with the roof by a sort of
+trap-door, which instead of sashes of glass has shutters of wood, which
+communicate with the rooms beneath by a long cord, so that they can be
+opened or shut from below at pleasure. Many of the chambers in the
+interior of the house get light and air solely through these apertures
+(called _Ventana de Teatinas_, because first introduced by the Theatine
+monks), while windows properly so-called are less numerous, and when
+looking towards the street are usually provided with large, broad,
+sometimes richly-gilt iron shutters. We saw these curious cords for
+opening and shutting the trap-doors in the roof hanging down in the middle
+of even elegantly-furnished apartments, and not even the circumstance of
+being made of silk prevented their having a peculiar and ungraceful
+effect.
+
+The mode of constructing the houses, together with the elegant
+ornamentation of the open courts (_patìo_) of the interior, speedily
+remind the stranger that he is in a place where rain (at least according
+to Northern ideas) is an unknown phenomenon, since one single, even
+down-pour must inevitably do immense damage in the Lima of the present
+day. During the winter months, however, as they are called, viz. June to
+November, fogs (_garuas_) are very frequent, which, albeit light, are
+sufficiently penetrating thoroughly to soak the pedestrian or horseman who
+happens to be surprised by them. I have myself repeatedly experienced in
+Lima fogs of such density, that it was quite practicable to count each
+separate drop. During these winter months, fine, clear days free of all
+cloud are comparatively rare; but the statement one occasionally hears,
+that for five months together the sun is invisible in Lima, is an
+exaggeration. The temperature of Lima is much lower than we could expect
+from a city within 12 degrees of the Equator, and seems to be affected
+principally by the proximity of the eternal snows of the Andes, and the
+prevailing atmospheric currents. The thermometer never rises higher than
+85°.8 Fahr., nor falls below 68°.2 Fahr. The average temperature during
+the hot season is 77°, and during the cold 63°.5 Fahr. Such a climate
+renders fires superfluous, and it is more habit than necessity that
+induces some Spanish families to carry about copper or iron pans
+(_Brasero_) filled with live coal, with which to warm their hands or feet.
+
+The exteriors and internal equipments of the dwellings are very simple and
+devoid of ornament, only a few of the older buildings, such, for instance,
+as the house of Torre Tagle, near San Pedro, forming the exception. Among
+the architectural decorations, which preserve to the present day the
+tradition of the glories of the Peruvian kingdom, one may marvel at
+majestic designs and beautiful mosaics, which even in their ruin tell of
+the magnificent luxury that was once indulged in here.
+
+The streets are wide and tolerably regular, but the absence of gutters and
+the wretched foundation of the roadway prevent their being used by
+carriages or horsemen, or by pedestrians even more than they can help. The
+open ditches at either side are full of filth and animal impurities, which
+are continually being thrown in, and but for the services of numerous
+carrion crows (_cathartes f[oe]tens_), who perform the duties of
+scavengers, Lima, owing to the supineness of the native authorities, would
+be one of the filthiest and most unhealthy cities in South America. But
+the _gallinazos_, as these black-headed birds are called by the natives,
+although lazy and unwieldy, nevertheless are in such immense numbers here,
+that they suffice to keep the streets comparatively free from putrescent
+odours. Everywhere, even in the thick of places of public resort, one sees
+these birds, which no one injures on account of their usefulness, and
+which even the rising generation never think of disturbing in their
+disgusting avocations, hopping about upon the bare ground, and gorging
+themselves on the garbage around.
+
+One of the greatest improvements to the city is its almost universal
+illumination by gas, which in the evening imparts a peculiar charm to the
+streets and fashionable shops of Lima, and enables them, in this
+particular at least, to vie with those of the capitals of Europe.
+
+The largest buildings in Lima are, as we might expect from a country
+conquered and colonized by Spaniards, the churches and monasteries, of
+which there are in this capital no fewer than eighty. Many of these
+Spanish memorials, of a religious epoch more bigoted than sincere, are at
+present decayed, and even those which are still preserved in something
+like good order fail to charm the eye by any graces of architecture or
+majestic simplicity in their interior fittings up. The Cathedral even,
+which takes up almost the entire east side of the chief square, is no
+exception to this rule, and, though it was 90 years in erection, is after
+all a very indifferent edifice. The interior is lofty and spacious, but
+owing to the choir having its proportions curtailed by a wide altar in the
+midst, one perceives on entering the church only the smaller half, so that
+the impression is destroyed, which, but for this interposed erection,
+would undoubtedly be made by the high altar, richly overlaid with gold and
+silver, seen through the vista of the entire building. The ornaments, the
+sacred vessels, and censers used in performing mass are exceedingly rich
+and valuable, but are too much overlaid to please an æsthetic taste. In
+the catacombs of the Cathedral repose the remains of Francisco Pizarro.
+Few strangers omit to visit this spot, and usually feel as much surprised
+as pleased at finding offered them for sale by the sacristan, various
+sorts of relics of the renowned conqueror of Peru, though all cannot hope
+to be so fortunate as an English lady at Lima, who informed me with all
+gravity that she had purchased from a guide a slipper taken from the
+coffin of Pizarro. Should this mania for relics on the part of visitors,
+and readiness to humour it on the part of vergers, continue unchecked,
+there will remain ere long in the catacombs only an empty shell, in which
+once lay the celebrated Conquistador. Perhaps, though, the speculative
+sacristan contents himself with gratifying the wishes of curiosity-loving
+visitants, by means similar to those of the artful cicerone who
+accompanies the enthusiastic stranger in his rambles among the ruins of
+classic antiquity.
+
+The monastery of San Francisco is more worth notice for its immense
+extent, which equals in size many an old imperial walled city of Suabia,
+than for elegance of style or tasteful artistic interior. The façade,
+painted in various colours, and overlaid with ornament, resembles by far
+more a Buddha temple than a Roman Catholic church. The corridors are the
+finest part of the building, their wooden ceilings being very richly
+carved. On all the walls of the passages are suspended drawings
+illustrative of the lives of various holy men, which, however, singular to
+say, are hung with their faces to the wall, and are only turned round on
+appointed festivals to charm the eyes of believers!
+
+The church is very roomy within, but quite bare of ornament. The sacristan
+with evident pride directed our attention to San Benito, a "black" saint,
+who was held in high esteem by the negroes, probably on account of his
+colour. Quite close to the monastery is the "Casa de Ejercicios," whither
+the monks repair at certain periods of the year to perform the prescribed
+religious exercises. The cells here have a more comfortless look than in
+the cloister proper. A bed-frame with a skin stretched upon it, a hard
+stool, a plain table, a crucifix, and a human skull, comprise the entire
+inventory. The latter, the cranium of a departed brother, was covered with
+numerous aids to religious meditation, some written, some carved on the
+substance of the bone.
+
+The lay-brother who escorted us round had not long been a denizen of this
+gloomy monastic abode. Though still very young, he was leaving behind him
+a tolerably enlarged experience of the world. Starting as a gold-digger in
+California, he became a gambler and speculator, when he quickly lost all
+he had so laboriously wrested from the soil, and returned to Lima, where,
+more for the sake of change and comfort than for any special vocation or
+imperious spiritual necessity, he had entered the order of Franciscans.
+His temperament being much more that of a man of the world than a monk, he
+must have felt himself sorely hampered by the restrictions of monastrism,
+were it not for the lax morality which is the standard of convent life in
+the capital of Peru; but the monk's cowl is in Lima not only the attire of
+humility and resignation, it is likewise the cloak for all manner of
+licentiousness and hypocrisy--the "_surtout_" which conceals many a lapse
+from virtue!
+
+The monastery of San Pedro was the wealthiest in Lima, so long as it
+remained the property of the Jesuits. When, in 1773, the order went forth
+for the suppression of the Order throughout South America, it was not
+executed without the Spanish viceroy's cherishing certain secret hopes of
+obtaining large riches. The Jesuits, however, on this occasion vindicated
+their reputation for subtlety, which has become proverbial among mankind.
+When the inventory was taken, nothing but empty boxes were to be found,
+and the most strict investigations and inquiries led to no more favourable
+result.
+
+Among the hospitals which we visited, that of San Andres deserves foremost
+notice for its size and comprehensiveness. It has room for 600 patients,
+who are tended by 50 _S[oe]urs de la Charité_, the majority of whom are
+French. The yellow fever, which, introduced in 1852 by immigrants,
+penetrated deep into the interior, though of a milder type, had of late
+carried off numerous victims, and indeed had seriously weakened the
+hygienic good name[133] of Lima; the small-pox also had annually committed
+fearful ravages; for vaccination is not made imperative by law, and
+inoculation is therefore neglected. Besides the hospital of St. Andrew,
+there are others for female patients, for the military, for incurables and
+imbeciles, an asylum for orphans,[134] and one for foundlings.[135]
+
+The best managed hospital apparently is that of Santa Anna, the wards of
+which are roomy, light, and airy, and make up about 350 beds. On the other
+hand, a portion of the above hospital set apart for those mentally
+afflicted, as also the regular Lunatic Asylum (_casa de Locos_), were in a
+state of filth and neglect, that are a positive disgrace to the present
+century. It is, in fact, a singular consideration that in every quarter of
+the globe men have only now begun to bethink them of their duties to those
+unhappy fellow-creatures, whose wretched lot should have commanded their
+most active sympathies! The reform of hospitals, and even of prisons and
+penitentiaries, had long been carried out in Europe, before asylums
+especially designed for the treatment of lunatics were projected. I must
+not, however, omit to add, in justice to the philanthropic society
+(_Sociadad de Beneficiencia_), to whose management the whole of the
+hospitals and poor-houses of the capital are intrusted, that a new Lunatic
+Asylum was in course of construction, the cost of which will amount to
+85,000 dollars (about £17,800).
+
+The _Hospital de los Locos_ (Hospital for the Insane) in the Cercado is
+all on the ground-floor, with chambers used at once for sitting-room,
+dining-room, and bed-chamber, but with accommodation for about 200
+patients. Twenty of the cells are set apart exclusively for refractory
+patients. The institution is in charge of Dr. Ulloa, one of the most
+skilful of the native physicians, who studied both in France and England.
+The patients are tended by the Grey Sisterhood, which has only recently
+reached the country.
+
+The old university buildings, on what formerly was called the Square of
+the Inquisition, now named Independence Square, are at present only used
+for festivities, examinations, conferring of degrees, &c. &c., while the
+different lectures are read in various buildings. I visited the School of
+Medicine, of which at that time Dr. Cajetano Herredia was rector, a
+gentleman more respectable for his zealous discharge of duty than by his
+scientific attainments. There are some good lecture-rooms, a chemical
+laboratory, a small museum, consisting mainly of pathological specimens,
+and a very fair library, which boasts several really valuable and
+little-known prints and books, especially such as relate to the history of
+Peru. One of the Professors, Don Antonio Raimondi, a Neapolitan by birth,
+bids fair to raise the reputation of the School of Medicine of Lima by his
+extensive knowledge and excellent mode of instruction. This gentleman
+teaches several branches of Natural History, and, during the short period
+he has been in Lima, has already given practical proof of his activity in
+a variety of fields.
+
+Unfortunately Professor Raimondi, with a number of his pupils, was absent
+on an excursion for practical scientific instruction, so that I was
+deprived of the opportunity of making his personal acquaintance. In his
+studio I saw two very remarkable skulls of Indians, which, owing to
+artificial pressure, had assumed a most singular form, one of which had
+belonged to an Indian of Cuzco, the other to a native of the Chincha
+tribe, who reside between Pisco and Cañete. I was also shown on the same
+occasion a female skull in such excellent preservation, that one could
+still easily perceive the expression of the face. This was the skull of a
+half-breed Indian woman, named Maria Palacel, aged 25, who had died in the
+hospital of Santa Anna, 27th Sept. 1856, of dysentery, and on 1st March,
+1859, nearly two and a half years later, had been disinterred in a state
+of complete preservation. Nature had in this case taken on herself the
+process of embalming, and had, owing to the dryness of the atmosphere, and
+the quantity of saline matter in the soil, secured results which in Europe
+could only have been obtained artificially and at a considerable expense.
+
+Adjoining the Escuela de Medecina is the National Library, a large
+building containing some 30,000 volumes, treating of every department of
+human knowledge, but which, owing to want of means, has of late years
+received hardly any accession. The librarian is Don Francisco de Paula
+Vigil, a highly intelligent and liberal-minded priest and man of the
+world, who had been excommunicated by Pio Nono on account of his learned
+work, "Defence of the Principles of Secular Authority against the
+Pretensions of the Holy See." Nothing daunted by the fulmination of this
+penalty, the excellent old gentleman is prosecuting his researches yet
+farther, and is energetically defending his principles; and what is still
+more surprising, he has anything but fallen off in public estimation in
+consequence. This is due to the fact that, unlike the female population,
+the Peruvians are very tolerant in religious matters, and rather averse
+from those pre-disposed to spiritual matters, whence there results the
+very small influence of the Peruvian clergy, everywhere visible, and the
+obstinate virulent enmity with which also, since the Spanish yoke was cast
+off, the priestly party oppose the progress of liberal ideas. This feeling
+is moreover powerfully aided by the ghastly testimony of history, that it
+was the monks who first introduced the rack and the Inquisition into the
+country.
+
+Father Vigil received me with much cordiality, and we had a long talk upon
+a variety of subjects. At last it turned upon his own well-known work, and
+the painful position in which he felt himself with respect to the See of
+Rome. This was the most interesting portion of our conversation. "It is
+not Catholicism that has made the majority of Catholic nations lag so
+woefully in the career of progress," exclaimed the venerable priest, "but
+that which Catholicism has suffered to be mixed up with it,--the
+Inquisition and Monasticism. It is marriage and labour that make
+individuals moral and useful, and nations great and powerful. Human
+society can get on very well without monks or nuns, but not without
+morals, not without matrimony and labour."
+
+Had I not transcribed these words almost at the moment they were spoken, I
+should hardly have dared to repeat them here, for I durst not have
+trusted to my memory, that a Spanish American priest, should have made
+such a remark in the "city of the Three Kings." These revelations, which
+are far from being solitary, but find a responsive echo in the bosoms of a
+portion at least of the male population of the capital, are highly
+important in arriving at a conclusion respecting the actual religious
+sentiment of the Peruvian Republic, and are very marked indications that
+an immense movement is likewise preparing in the Catholic Church on the
+further side of the Andes; and that Peru also has found its "Father
+Passaglia." Nay, it would not surprise me in the least, should South
+America, which for upwards of three centuries has been dumbly obeying the
+behests of spiritual intolerance, suddenly emit letters and propositions
+which would amount to a virtual separation from the Roman Catholic Church!
+It is but a few years since Catholic priests in the Legislative Assemblies
+of Nicaragua and Honduras recorded their votes in favour of repealing the
+ordinance of celibacy, and from their pulpits harangued their flocks on
+the advantages of revolutionary insurrection!
+
+In a wing of the Library buildings is the National Museum, which, however,
+merely fills two moderate-sized apartments. The Natural History collection
+is in such a wretched neglected state that it is in imminent danger, the
+ornithological department especially, of being entirely eaten up by
+insects.
+
+Amongst the most valuable are some Peruvian antiquities, such as weapons,
+mummies, and what are called _Huacos_, earthen jars, pots, and other
+utensils from ancient Indian graves. To the historical student the
+portraits of the whole of the Viceroys and Governors of Peru, which are
+suspended on the walls of the first apartment in chronological order, will
+prove extremely interesting. The finest head of the series, the one which
+most clearly tells of manly vigour, acuteness, and energy, is that of
+Francisco Pizarro, the natural son of a Spanish nobleman, who tended swine
+in his boyhood, and ended his life as Viceroy of Peru, having been slain
+by an assassin in the 64th year of his age.
+
+Of the educational institutions, the only one deserving special remark is
+the "Escuela Normal Central" (Central Normal School), established by
+Government, at an expense of 160,000 dollars (£33,600), and opened in
+1859. Its object is to provide suitable school instruction for industrious
+children of poor or aged parents; but hitherto the prefects of the
+provinces have, by protection, presented almost exclusively children of
+persons of means and position, and sent them on to the capital. Owing to
+the great want of good schools hitherto, it happens that every one crowds
+towards this new institute, which seems to promise to its pupils a more
+complete education and better training than any other. The number for
+which it was destined was 40 boarders and 200 day-scholars, the former of
+whom are well taken care of.
+
+The system of education pursued is the Lancasterian, and is carried out by
+five professors. The estimated annual expenditure is about 20,000 dollars.
+One of the directors, Mr. J. C. Braun, a German by birth, who not long
+before had come to Lima to settle, and taught Natural Philosophy and
+Chemistry, accompanied me throughout the extensive building, and specially
+pointed out a class-room comfortably and even elegantly fitted up, as also
+a small museum of Natural History, with an excellent geological
+collection, and a small library attached to it. Singularly enough, the
+latter comprises a great number of school-books in much request among
+Protestant pedagogues. Apparently an order had been sent, without
+specifying any particular writers, to purchase good school-books at some
+German publishing-house, and now the Catholic youth of bigoted Lima is
+taught from the works of Protestant teachers! Various surveys and maps
+covered the walls of this class-room, all bearing evidence of their German
+origin in the names of publishers and places, most of them having been
+sent out from the distinguished house of Justus Perthes in Gotha.
+
+One very remarkable and characteristic incident occurred at the opening of
+the school, at which were present the President of the Republic, Don Ramon
+de Castella, so hated and dreaded for his despotism, together with several
+senators and deputies. The Rector, Don Miguel Estorch, laid considerable
+stress, in the course of his address, upon the importance of really
+effective schools in a State, and maintained that, when children are well
+brought up, there is no longer any need of so large sums being spent for
+police and standing army to keep up security and order in the country.
+This remark, which made a deep impression on all present, nevertheless
+gave much offence to the President, who rose and replied, in a tone of
+considerable asperity, that the Rector's view was erroneous, and that a
+proper military force was as indispensable as a good system of education;
+that it least of all became the Rector to touch upon such a topic in that
+place and such presence.
+
+Under the present political _régime_, it is out of the question to look
+for anything like intellectual vigour in Lima, so sparse are the elements
+of such. There is an utter absence of that sympathy, interest, and support
+which is necessary to its existence, alike on the part of Government and
+of society at large.[136] Works, such as Manuel Fuentes' valuable
+"Estadistica General de Lima" (General Statistics of Lima), can only be
+considered as solitary special performances. Also in the field of
+Journalism there is no person of mark visible, and even the few journals
+which appear in Lima, such as the _Comercio_ and the _Independiente_, have
+a very limited circulation. As only a small proportion of the population
+can read or interest itself in politics, the principles advocated in those
+journals exercise no influence, so that Government has less difficulty in
+acting up to them than would otherwise be the case.
+
+One thing that particularly struck me was the hostility displayed to
+Austria, which, during my stay in Lima, manifested itself in the daily
+press and a fraction of the population. The politics of Austria were
+discussed with a bitterness of hate, which was the more surprising in a
+nation which is itself a prey to intestine disorders, and suffers itself
+to be led about a willing captive, in the fetters of a half-Indian despot.
+I found, however, the clue to this excited language, when I learned on one
+occasion, that there are upwards of 8000 Piedmontese in Lima and Callao
+alone, chiefly shop-keepers and shipping-owners, who exercise a certain
+influence upon the native population. The war in Europe had so raised anew
+the pride of country in each Italian, and filled him with such sanguine
+patriotic aspirations and hopes of a united Italy, that his heated fancy
+beheld in every incident of the war the most righteous struggle that ever
+was engaged in, and in the opposite party the most detestable and inhuman
+of opponents.
+
+Among such an auditory as those in which such opinions were ventilated,
+there was no difficulty in finding adherents. The ignorance of the native
+population respecting all countries on the other side of the Andes became
+conspicuously evident in the course of the discussion. Of Italy and her
+plains they had at least heard tell, since Peru maintains a pretty active
+trade with Genoa. If I am not mistaken, the great revolutionary leader and
+popular idol of Italy was once captain of a ship along the Peruvian coast,
+and left here many a friend and well-wisher to his cause and himself. Of
+Austria, on the other hand, there were simply dim rumours flitting about
+as of some shadowy land, or the vanished empire of the Incas. Singular to
+say, it was precisely the renowned Concordat made with the Papacy which
+had brought such discredit on Austrian policy among the Roman Catholic
+population. I dare not repeat here the strong language which was used, not
+alone in the journals but to myself personally, by educated Peruvians and
+foreigners settled here.
+
+In fact, all the misery that Peru has suffered since its subjugation by
+the Spaniards, and its present drooping condition, is here universally
+ascribed to the overwhelming influence of Spanish monks and priests in
+secular affairs. It has not yet been forgotten that monks stood at the
+head of the Inquisition,--that for centuries the people groaned under
+their oppressive sway. Conscious of their own fate, and the condition to
+which the clerical weapons reduced the puerile half-civilized races which
+inhabit Mexico and Central America, the lively imagination of the
+Peruvians led to consequences resulting from such a state-policy far more
+disastrous than could possibly be the case among a free-souled people like
+the Austrians. For it is the chief merit of European civilization, that
+every political measure threatening to impede the march of ideas by any
+process of fettering men's minds, only serves to evoke a more restless
+activity, as in our actual state of human culture enlightenment and
+science form far too formidable a bulwark for reaction to obtain any
+permanent success, or even to succeed in overleaping.
+
+Among the excursions which I made during my stay in Peru, there were two
+of special interest,--a ride to the ruins of Cajamarquilla, and a visit to
+the Temple of the Sun at Pachacamác, the erection of which dates from a
+period antecedent to the dynasty of the Incas.
+
+The ruins of Cajamarquilla are about nine English miles distant from the
+capital. Owing to the insecurity of life and property even in the region
+immediately around the capital, these ruins are but rarely visited. But
+very few strangers settled in Lima knew these ruins, and it required a
+long time ere I could procure the slightest information respecting them.
+My excellent host, Mr. Braun, who very soon perceived how much my heart
+was set on visiting these ancient Indian ruins, exerted himself to make up
+a party for me. It was a piece of real friendliness undertaken with the
+very kindest intentions, but unfortunately scientific objects do not
+usually admit of being mixed up with pleasure-parties, it being very
+difficult to unite the two. About twenty horsemen, chiefly English, had
+assembled to make the excursion. Among our company there were also a few
+ladies, whom the difficulties and dangers could not deter from joining
+us. As we had to take with us provisions for the entire party, a string of
+mules heavily laden with prog had been sent off early in the morning to
+the goal of our excursion. These preparations seemed to be by far the most
+important in the eyes of a majority of the cavalcade, after their arrival
+at the ruins themselves, an examination of which was evidently the last
+thing they had thought of when they bestrode their steeds in the morning.
+
+The road to the ruins of Cajamarquilla is excessively fatiguing, rough,
+and rocky: nothing but climbing over rocky hills, upon which close to the
+very edge of the precipice is a faint Indian track, or crossing torrents,
+where the horse sinks to his crupper in the water, so that only a
+practised horseman can save himself from a thorough soaking.
+
+Immediately on leaving the city begins a tract of desolate sterile
+stone-fields, in the midst of which one reaches what is known as the
+Hacienda de Pedrero, a lonely farm, where, it being as usual a fête-day of
+some Peruvian saint, a dozen field labourers had collected under the
+shadow of the verandah round the farm-house, blissfully occupied in doing
+nothing. No two of these were of the same breed; there were men of every
+variety of race and shade of colour; whites, Indians, Chinese, Negroes,
+Mulattoes, Mestizoes, Chinos, Sambos, Quadroons, &c. &c., and this
+specimen in little of the population of Peru would lead any observer to
+conjecture correctly as to the main reason of the low position held by the
+country in the scale of nations. As in the Hacienda of San Pedrero, so
+throughout the country one encounters fifty coloured men of all shades for
+one full-blooded white. In Chile, on the other hand, one has to penetrate
+deep into the interior before one finds any traces of the Indian stock,
+while of negro population, (and this is the greatest advantage enjoyed by
+that Republic over Peru,) there is absolutely none. In the settled parts
+along the coast of Chile there are none but whites, and even the working
+classes are Spaniards, English, German, Italians, and North Americans. The
+preponderating white element in the population, their greater
+intelligence, energy, and perseverance, form the principal source of that
+intellectual and political activity which has placed Chile far in advance
+of the other Southern and Central-American Republics, and is opening a
+brilliant future to that State, far surpassing that of any of the
+neighbouring republics.
+
+From the Hacienda de San Pedrero it is half an hour's ride to that of
+Guachipa and the Neveria of Don Pablo Sassio, where we engaged a guide,
+who accompanied us a couple of miles further to the goal of our excursion.
+
+Cajamarquilla is an ancient Peruvian hamlet in the valley of and close to
+the river Rimac, which waters the whole district and makes it productive.
+The remains of the dwellings are built exclusively of sun-dried bricks,
+and the laying out of each single apartment differs little from the mode
+of constructing Indian huts at the present day. It must to all appearance
+have been an extensive place once, as the ruins cover eight to ten acres.
+Considering the little space which the Indian of the present day requires
+for his household gods, it may be assumed that this was a place of from
+30,000 to 40,000 inhabitants. I saw no buildings of very remarkable
+dimensions, nor indeed any one the laying out of which designated it as
+once intended for religious purposes. The ruins are for the most part,
+relics of simple mud-huts, all similarly laid out in single chambers,
+differing from each other mainly in the greater or less dimensions of the
+apartments. Nothing here told of the existence of any buildings intended
+for public meetings, temples for worship, sacrificial altars, &c., such as
+one meets with in the ruined cities of Central America, in Copan,
+Quiriguá, Petén, Palenque, and so forth. One perceives that each of these
+huts, like those inhabited by the Indians at the present day, consisted of
+two compartments, the entire superficial area being from 36 to 42 feet
+square. The larger of the two apartments is about 60 feet, the smaller
+from 12 to 18 feet in width and depth. Nowhere could we discern a trace of
+that special construction which is observable among the Indian races of
+the high lands of Guatemala, and is there usually employed for taking
+vapour-baths (Temaskal.)
+
+To form any notion of the antiquity of these buildings is doubly difficult
+in a climate where it never rains and the temperature is the same
+throughout the year, and where consequently buildings are not exposed to
+the destructive alternations of cold, damp, and scorching heat, as in
+other less favoured countries. Even earthquakes are here not so much to be
+dreaded as where houses are of brick or stone, since the Adoba possesses
+far more elasticity than intractable building material, and is therefore
+better able to withstand the repeated undulations of the earth's surface.
+
+The site of the town, which lies in a long deep valley surrounded on all
+sides by hills of the most fantastic shape, rising to a height of from
+8000 to 10,000 feet, is exceedingly grand. Unfortunately when we visited
+it, all the peaks and hills of the country around were naked, barren, and
+bleak-looking. But in winter after the first dews have fallen, those
+slopes and table-lands that now looked so desolate are covered with dense
+deep-green verdure, when they make a far more agreeable impression on the
+beholder.
+
+Of trees I saw only a few kinds of bamboo and acacia, which, more
+spreading than lofty, were visible in the swampy ground along the edges of
+the torrents. Some of the hills around seem at first sight like artificial
+fortifications, but when we approach closer there is not the slightest
+indication of Cajamarquilla having ever been a fort or place of defence.
+To all appearance the spot, at the time of the Spaniards first coming to
+Peru, was inhabited by the Quichua Indians, who afterwards either
+abandoned voluntarily their peaceful abodes through dread of their
+pursuers, or were driven thence by violence. None of the present
+inhabitants of the vicinity, to whom I spoke, could give us any definite
+information as to the ancient history of the ruins, and one hoary Indian,
+named Pablo Plata, who lives in the village of Guachipa, and remembers
+some wild traditions respecting Cajamarquilla, which he received by word
+of mouth from preceding generations, I unfortunately missed seeing owing
+to the shortness of my stay.
+
+Quite close to the remains of the town, is at present a large Hacienda,
+with magnificent clover pasturages, fertilized by the river Rimac. It was
+at one of these green oases that our company sat down to a comfortable
+pic-nic, which spoke volumes for the preparations that had been made for
+creature comforts. No small portion of what had been brought with us was
+left on the field, to be gobbled up by the clouds of negroes that crowded
+round, glad of the opportunity of tasting something cooked in the European
+fashion, though they do not like them as well as the product of their own
+wretched native kettles. Thus, for example, our guide, a negro, preferred
+vegetables and _dulce_ (sweets) to meat, and declared sherry and cognac
+offered him to be "too strong."
+
+If not in ease and comfort, at any rate in scientific interest, I found my
+excursion to Cajamarquilla surpassed by that made to Pachacamác in the
+valley of Lurin, which I made in company with some friend, and in the
+course of which I stayed behind the rest of my party, in company with the
+flag-lieutenant of the since world-renowned frigate _Merrimac_.
+
+My visit to Pachacamác was, however, in so far less interesting than that
+to Cajamarquilla, that the greater part of the road, as far as Chorillos,
+was accomplished by railroad, the remainder of the way being over sand
+barrens, abhorred by both steed and rider.
+
+Chorillos, about nine miles from Lima, and a favourite watering-place of
+the inhabitants of the capital, with salt-water baths and gaming-tables,
+lies in a small romantic cove, but is of rather difficult access, owing to
+the steep sand-hills which, 150 to 200 feet in height, bar all access from
+seaward. Formerly the ride to Chorillos, like that from Callao to the
+capital, was performed under considerable difficulty and danger, whence it
+has not seldom resulted that visitors to the watering-place, who have made
+money at the tables of Chorillos, have on their homeward ride to Lima been
+eased of their winnings by some of their previous companions over the
+board of green cloth! At present one bowls thither over a well-made road,
+easily and without dread of being called on to "stand and deliver," since,
+even in Peru, people have not yet succeeded in amalgamating railroads and
+robbery.
+
+The little place itself boasts of a few good dwelling-houses, and some 100
+to 150 Ranchos of wood and _adobes_, or constructed of mud and reeds, in
+which delectable abodes the good folk from the capital are content to pass
+the hottest and most unhealthy months of the year (from January to May).
+These Ranchos, very unsightly without and exceedingly poorly furnished,
+are sometimes most habitable within-doors, and fitted with delightful
+verandahs or open porches, in which the free-and-easy occupants loll
+about in grass hammocks or rocking-chairs, fanned by the cool sea-breezes,
+in a state of dreamy _dolce-far-niente_. Altogether Chorillos is a very
+unpretending and altogether uncomfortable place, in which there is little
+room for elegancy or self-assertion, the President of the Republic himself
+occupying a wretched, dirty Rancho. Don Ramon passes most of his time in
+the gaming-room, where he is a much-desired and most welcome guest, on
+account of the large sums which he is in the habit of wagering.
+
+On a lovely June morning, about 6.30 A.M., we rode out of Chorillos, and
+three hours later reached the ancient Pachacamác,[137] a Quichua village
+close to the sea-shore, with the temple of the Sun there existent at a
+period antecedent to the Incas, and which was afterwards dedicated by the
+Incas to the service of the invisible God. These ruins are much older than
+those of Cajamarquilla. They are partly of clay-tile, but by far the
+largest part consists of hewn stone, held together by mortar, the whole
+presenting, even in its ruined state, a lasting and massive aspect. Of the
+temple which once stood here, there is, however, no trace at present
+visible beyond mere indistinct traces of the foundation.
+
+In the midst of a spacious Indian village there is seen a hill about 400
+feet high, with artificial terraces in regular gradation, and surrounded
+by lofty walls, that look as though they had been battlemented. On this
+rising ground once stood the temple which the Yuncas had built in honour
+of their chief god. Somewhat later, when this wild race had been subdued
+by the Incas, these consecrated the temple in honour of the Sun, flung out
+the idols of the Yuncas, and designed a number of royal virgins for its
+service. Pizarro, however, completed the work of destruction, when, with
+his fanatical followers, he penetrated, in 1534, into the valley of Lurin,
+hitherto the most populous and peacefully prosperous of the entire
+Peruvian coast. The villages were laid waste, the temple overthrown, and
+its virgin priestesses delivered over to the brutal soldiery, and
+afterwards put to death.
+
+Quite close to the ruins, as they lie scattered along the coast, the
+island of Pachacamác, or Morosolar, rises from the bottom of the ocean,
+scarcely accessible owing to its steep, precipitous sides, and on which
+there is not a single architectural memorial of any sort to be found, as
+erroneously stated, or copied, by several authors.
+
+From the summit of the hill the visitor finds a surprising landscape,
+stretching over the beautiful and fertile valley of Lurin; it is difficult
+to imagine a more vivid and delightful contrast than is presented by the
+greyish-brown, sandy, far-extending ruins, and the soft verdure of the
+surrounding plain, variegated with the hues of every description of
+tropical plant. The attention is further arrested by the singularity of
+the abounding vegetation beginning close to the sea, where sugar-cane and
+grass flourish in the most luxuriant superabundance, while scarcely a
+half-mile distant the landscape resumes the barren, sandy features, which
+extend for miles inland. Not till the Lurin valley is reached does the
+magnificence of tropical vegetation again enliven the scene.
+
+After a cursory examination of the locality, we passed the night at an
+adjoining _Hacienda_, a large sugar plantation and refinery, which employs
+180 Chinese coolies. Each Chinese labourer receives rations of rice and
+vegetables, besides four dollars a month, and binds himself to stay eight
+years with his employer, to repay the latter's outlay for his voyage, &c.
+The speculator, however, who imports the coolies from the northern
+provinces of China receives a premium of 300 dollars for every coolie
+imported. The Chinese whom we saw at Lurin, as indeed all those we
+encountered throughout Peru, were very filthy and depressed-looking, but
+seemed in good health, and, on the whole, better off than in Brazil or the
+West Indies. We were told that two Chinese will not get through so much
+work as one negro. There are at present about 10,000 Chinese in Peru, who
+have been imported by speculators during the last ten years, to some of
+whom their deportation has been a vast benefit, since, after their eight
+years' service, they are free, and may and do begin to work zealously on
+their own account. In Peru, as in the Indies, Java, and indeed wherever
+they are employed, the Chinese cling close to each other, and mutually
+assist each other, should any of their number fall into poverty.
+
+The following morning early we paid a second visit to the ruins of
+Pachacamác, and took with us from the Hacienda a number of negroes, with
+working implements, for the purpose of digging up and examining the
+graves. At various points, especially close to the hill on which stands
+what probably was once a fort, we found a great number of skulls lying
+about. Most of those we picked up had been artificially compressed, though
+they did not all seem to have had the pressure applied at the same place,
+thus affording unmistakeable proof that artificial pressure had been
+resorted to here. Many of the skulls, though they had been interred for
+centuries, were still thickly covered with hair. There cannot be a doubt
+that most of those buried here belonged to the race which occupied this
+part of the country when the Spaniards first visited it, for after the
+occupation and the subsequent wholesale baptisms which the proselytizing
+monks performed upon the ignorant brown natives in droves, it is
+improbable that any of the Christianized Indians would thereafter be
+interred in unconsecrated earth.
+
+The Peruvian Indians, as is well known, were accustomed to envelope their
+dead in coarse cloths, after which they were buried in basket or
+sack-shaped straw-plait work, certain objects and utensils being placed by
+their side, preference being given to those the deceased had most used in
+life. Thus, fish-nets, baskets, &c., were placed in the grave, and in the
+case of a chief, weapons, staffs with golden knobs, pots of wood or burnt
+earth, and so forth. The head usually reposes on a sort of pillow of grass
+or cotton. I brought away with me from Pachacamác about half a dozen of
+the most remarkably shaped of these skulls, as also some portions of
+mummified corpses, which the negroes had disinterred in my presence. All
+these objects were in excellent preservation, about three or four feet
+under the surface, some in simple graves, others in longish sepulchres of
+hewn stone, such as we might imagine were occupied by the wealthier class
+of the community. It is usual to find several skeletons (probably members
+of the same family) in each separate grave. I also found layers of woven
+stuffs, some of very superior design and finish, interposed between
+various corpses.
+
+While the negroes were engaged in further excavations, I once more
+ascended the hill on which the Temple of the Sun must once have stood, and
+which to this day is called by the neighbouring inhabitants "_Castillo del
+Sol_." On the side next the sea, there are still visible a number of
+buttresses, which seem as though they had formed part of an older line of
+fortifications. There was nothing resembling a sacrificial altar, or to
+tell of the religious ceremonies that must once have been performed here.
+Here and there the material of the wall was still covered with a reddish
+tint, just as if it had been but recently painted. In several portions of
+the wall still standing, there were pieces of wood alternating with layers
+of mortar, now quite decayed, and affording unmistakeable evidence of the
+antiquity of the buildings. We also remarked in the walls of several of
+the Indian huts niche-shaped depressions, about 1-1/2 feet deep by 1-1/2
+feet in length and width, the use of which has never been even plausibly
+conjectured. While the whole of the buildings of Cajamarquilla consisted
+of sun-dried tiles and bricks, those of Pachacamác seem to have been
+almost entirely built of stone hewn into the shape of tiles. So much of
+the wall as still remains is very strong and solid. According to tradition
+the walls of ancient Pachacamác once stretched as far as Cuzco, 240 miles
+distant E.N.E.!
+
+The proprietor of the sugar plantation in the Lurin valley told me that he
+himself, about ten years previous, had seen mummies disinterred in the
+neighbourhood of Pachacamác, in the mouths of which were gold ornaments,
+while various objects were buried with them, such as small idols of gold
+and silver, staffs with golden buttons, earthen jars and vessels filled
+with Chicha (the well-known favourite intoxicating drink of the Indians),
+and fruits, the Chicha and fruits having remained in a wonderful state of
+preservation.[138]
+
+On our way back to Chorillos we passed the beautifully situated village of
+Susco, environed with neat country-houses, which was a favourite summer
+retreat of the inhabitants of Lima, before Chorillos reached its present
+development. At present Susco is dreary and forsaken-looking.
+
+When I reached Lima on my return from this interesting excursion, I had
+only a few days more left before I was to take steamer again _en route_ to
+Panama, which I employed in riding about to examine all that was best
+worth seeing in the environs, and making a few parting calls.
+
+One of the finest promenades in Lima is the _Alameda Nueva_, opened about
+two years previous, which lies on the road to Amancaes on the further bank
+of the Rimac, which divides the city into two unequal parts, of which,
+however, far the larger one, constituting indeed the city proper, lies on
+the left or southern bank. After the romantic descriptions I had read of
+the Rimac, I found myself woefully undeceived by the reality. Of the
+thundering rapids below the bridge, of which Castelnau gives us such a
+picturesque sketch, I found not a trace visible, the greater part of the
+river-bed, 150 to 200 feet wide, being quite dry, with a wretched little
+driblet of water trickling through it. The season of the year may,
+however, have contributed to this disenchanting prospect, and in August
+and September, when the melting snows and violent rain-storms of the
+neighbouring Cordilleras swell the brooks and rivers, they possibly impart
+a more imposing and lively aspect to the Rimac. The stone bridge over the
+river, which forms the communication with the suburb of San Lazaro, is a
+handsome structure, built in 1638-1640, from the designs of an Augustine
+monk, and cost nearly half a million dollars.
+
+The _Alameda Nueva_ consists of a long, wide lane, with pretty garden
+nurseries and flower-beds on either side, interspersed with tasteful
+marble statues life-size, the whole enclosed in an elegant iron railing
+richly ornamented. In the winter season, more particularly (June to
+September), this beautiful promenade is in great request, when, after a
+few heavy falls of dew, the hills and valleys of the environs are covered
+with verdure of the most delicate shades, and the residents of the capital
+wander through the lovely glades of Amancaes, which is so overrun with the
+yellow blossoms of the Amaryllis (_Ismene Hamancaes_ of Herbert), that
+this fine plant has given its name to the whole valley. On such occasions
+quite a colony of booths is extemporized, where eatables and drinkables
+are consumed, and giants and dwarfs, panoramas and art-saloons, are
+thronged with visitors, while ballad-singers, musicians, rope-dancers,
+mountebanks, jugglers, gamblers, and thieves, are never weary of plying
+their various trades, to the lightening of the purses of the
+pleasure-seeking crowds.
+
+Of public amusements and places of resort there are but few in Lima, and
+these not of a very refined description. The theatre is an old and
+downright ugly building, where Spanish comedians play indifferent pieces.
+An Italian operatic company proved a failure owing to want of subscribers,
+even the highest talent barely succeeding in gaining sufficient to charter
+a ship to carry the _troupe_ back to Europe. The sole amusement, which
+never fails to collect a delighted multitude, is a bull-fight. These come
+off at intervals during the summer in the Plaza del Acho, in an uncovered
+amphitheatre specially built for the purpose, and constructed of sun-dried
+brick. On these days all Lima is in a state of excitement, and an
+incalculable crowd of curious sight-seers of both sexes are hastening
+through the Alameda Nueva to the arena, there to gloat over the bloody
+scene. Fully 12,000 to 15,000 human beings throng into the confined area;
+each hastily deposits his half dollar (2_s._) of entrance-money, so as to
+get the chance of a better seat. One would think it must be to a splendid
+soul-elevating drama that they are flocking to listen to, whereas it is
+but the torture of a wretched herbivore that excites their depraved
+curiosity. The reader will excuse me for not reiterating the loathsome
+details of an often-told spectacle.
+
+It is a fact of considerable historic interest that bull-fights are now
+confined to the Spaniards and to their coloured descendants, in the
+various regions of the globe whither her dominion has extended, and it
+seems but a fit pendent, that the laws of the same nation should, in the
+latter half of the nineteenth century, condemn to the galleys Roman
+Catholics who venture to embrace Protestantism.
+
+We wish here to add one single remark of our own on a feature of the
+entertainment which we have not seen mentioned elsewhere, viz. what
+becomes of the flesh of the animals thus killed. It is forthwith cut up in
+quarters quite close to the arena, and sold at a reduced price to the
+populace, although it is a well-known physiological fact, that the meat of
+any animal killed in a state of rabid agony cannot be eaten without
+prejudice to the health. The negroes, however, erroneously maintain that
+meat thus killed is far more tender than that of cattle slaughtered in the
+ordinary mode, and the Government of Republican Peru finds it best to
+leave each to decide the physiology of the question by his own digestive
+powers.
+
+Of the state of society in Lima I have little to say. A stranger finds it
+difficult to obtain a footing among the better families, especially if his
+stay be as limited as mine necessarily was. The high-pressure existence of
+the capital has of late years obliterated much of its former originality
+and poetry. He who saw Lima twenty years ago would hardly recognize it
+now-a-days. The "Saya" and the "Manto," those singular but in Lima once
+indispensable articles of apparel of the Limañas, which enabled them like
+masks to attend church or market, to join processions, in short, never
+left their face in the street or at the promenade, have entirely
+disappeared, and with them have necessarily gone many other peculiar
+habits and customs. Formerly no lady durst venture into the street without
+a "Saya" or "Manto;" now, on the contrary, she would run the risk of being
+insulted, or at least stared at, should she appear in public in this
+peculiar mask-like disguise. The ancient usages peculiar to the country
+must give way to French manners; the Saya, the close-fitting, usually
+black or cinnamon-coloured upper garment, which once was the customary
+attire, and consequently rendered a more careful toilette unnecessary, has
+made way for the voluminous crinolined silk dress, while the Manto, that
+heavy veil of a thick black silken material, which was thrown over the
+back, shoulders, and head, and drawn so close that there was only a small
+triangular space left through which peeped one eye, has been displaced by
+the long black head-dress which the Spanish women are accustomed to wear.
+
+The ladies of Lima are usually of elegant, slight, graceful appearance,
+their chief attractions being brilliant complexion, large dark gleaming
+eyes, dazzling white teeth, rich black hair, and very neat little feet.
+They greatly reminded me of the Havana ladies, with whom they have much in
+common so far as regards the passion for personal adornment, while in
+figure and intelligent expression of face both lag far behind the ladies
+of Chile.
+
+The gentlemen of Lima, by which term I allude chiefly to the white Creoles
+or pure descendants of the Spaniards, who constitute about one-third of
+the population,[139] do not leave that impression of a splendid future
+resulting from a prosperous development of the resources of the country,
+which might be reasonably expected if there were more intellectual
+movement, and more industrial and commercial activity apparent among their
+number. The state of affairs in Peru since its separation from Spain in
+1822, the constant squabbles and civil wars, as also the fact that a mere
+mestizo, like Ramon Castilla, devoid of intellectual or moral
+pre-eminence, should have succeeded in getting himself declared President
+for life of the Republic,[140] are the best proofs of the political and
+moral degradation of the Republic of Peru. All the splendid territories
+from Peru to Mexico have, after three centuries of Spanish rule, sunk into
+a state of demoralization and degeneracy, owing to the listless,
+labour-hating, sluggish mestizo races that inhabit it, such as only the
+immigration of one of the hardy northern races can ever adequately remedy.
+In a previous visit to Central America, I have wandered through its rich
+scenery, clad in the hues of perpetual summer, and smiling in exuberance
+of fertility, and everywhere the same impression was made upon me. Almost
+the only effect this wealth of nature seems to exercise upon the Indian or
+negro mestizo is to incapacitate him from mastering by any effort of his
+own the lethargy that preys upon him. Where a few rare exceptions occur,
+as, for instance, in Costa Rica, in which a sounder policy is preserved,
+it is invariably found that they are of purer Spanish descent than their
+sister republics in tropical South America.[141]
+
+Owing to their political organization, these various states can scarcely
+fail to be powerfully affected by the impulses of our time. They have no
+other prospect than that of becoming either an integral portion of the
+immense North American Federation, or of once more being consolidated into
+a monarchy under the sceptre of some scion of a European royal family. In
+all probability, whether they be North Americans, or English, or Germans,
+they will always be children of some of a more powerful race, who must
+ultimately subvert the races of the Southern type, awaken a new spirit of
+energy, and so carry out that which the lazy mixed races of the present
+time have neither the power nor the inclination to effect. An immigration
+of stilled Northerners can alone raise these countries politically and
+commercially, develope their natural resources, and restore them to the
+grade of civilized states.
+
+One of the most important as well as useful plants of Peru, and with
+samples of which I provided myself on leaving Peru, for the purpose of
+future analysis, is the Coca (_Erythroxylon Coca_), the leaves of which
+mixed with chalk or ashes of plants, form so important an article of diet
+as well as a masticatory among some Indian races of Peru and Bolivia.
+Before I left Europe one of our most celebrated German pharmacologists,
+M. Wöhler of Göttingen, expressed to me his wish to procure a considerable
+quantity of coca leaves, to enable him to analyze more completely than had
+as yet been done the chemical constituents of this remarkable plant, and I
+therefore made it a duty to take measures for procuring the requisite
+supply. Although the wonderful stimulant properties of the coca had for
+more than half a century been known to European travellers, the leaves of
+the plant, which flourishes best on the eastern slopes of the Cordilleras
+of Peru and Bolivia, at an elevation of about 8000 feet, and a temperature
+of from 64°.4 to 68° Fahr., have hitherto only reached Europe in very
+small quantities, having in fact been carried home simply as curiosities.
+It was reserved for one of the _Novara_ expedition to bring over as much
+as 60 lbs. weight for the purpose of investigation of its properties by
+German men of science. Half of this quantity I took to Europe among my own
+effects; the remainder was forwarded somewhat later, through the kindness
+of two German gentlemen resident in Lima, Messrs. C. Eggert and N.
+Linnich.
+
+So many, and in the main correct, accounts[142] have been published by
+travellers of the coca plant, its culture, its effect upon the system,
+and the marvels that have been achieved by its use, that I may well be
+excused from dwelling at length upon the habit which prevails among the
+Indians of chewing coca, or on its importance as a chief article of
+subsistence for several millions of our fellow-creatures. I may, however,
+mention certain instances which came within my own personal knowledge, as
+also a few statistical data relating to the annual consumption of coca in
+Peru and Bolivia, and the economical importance of this cultivation.
+
+A Scotchman named Campbell, who was settled as a merchant at Tacna in
+Bolivia, and with whom I travelled to Europe from Lima, informed me that a
+few years before, being engaged upon matters of urgent business, he had
+performed in one day a distance of 90 English miles on mule-back, and
+throughout that long distance had been accompanied by an Aymara Indian,
+who kept up easily with the mule, without other refreshment than a few
+grains of roasted maize and coca leaves, which, mingled with undissolved
+chalk, he chewed incessantly. On reaching the station where he was to pass
+the night, Mr. Campbell, though mounted on an excellent animal, found
+himself greatly fatigued; the guide, on the other hand, _after he had
+stood on his head for a few minutes_,[143] and had drank a glass of
+brandy, set off without further delay on his homeward journey!!
+
+In April, 1859, Mr. Campbell despatched a native from La Paz to Tacna, a
+distance of 249 English miles, which the Indian accomplished in four days.
+He rested one day at Tacna, and set off the following morning on his
+return journey, in the course of which he had to cross a pass 13,000 feet
+in height. It would seem that throughout the whole of this immense journey
+on foot, he followed the Indian custom of taking no other sustenance than
+a little roasted maize and coca leaves, which he carried in a little pouch
+at his side, and chewed from time to time.[144]
+
+Like other experienced travellers, Mr. Campbell, who has lived over 14
+years in Bolivia, is of opinion that a moderate use of coca exercises no
+prejudicial influence upon the general health, but simply tends to make
+the Indian races of the higher regions of the Andes more capable of
+continued laborious work. Many coca-chewers attain a great age, and Mr.
+Campbell knew one such, who had taken part in the insurrection of
+Tupac-Amaru in 1781, and at the time of my visit, 1859, was still in full
+possession of all his faculties. In short, as in the case of opium and
+wine, it would seem that it is only the abuse of coca that is followed by
+evil consequences.
+
+The coca is less cultivated in Peru than in Bolivia, and the leaves are
+not in such request among the Quichua as among the Aymara Indians.[145]
+As the Government of Bolivia draws a very handsome revenue from coca
+cultivation, a tax of five reals, about one shilling, being levied on
+every _cesto_, or about 25 lbs. English, there is a better opportunity of
+getting at the correct amount of the entire production than in Peru, where
+the plant is grown free of duty. The coca tax realizes in all in Bolivia
+300,000 _pesos_ or dollars (about £75,000), so that the entire annual
+product is about 480,000 _cestos_ or 1,200,000 lbs. The _cesto_ is worth
+at La Paz from 7 to 9 _pesos_, but when employed in large quantities for
+export, it cost about 10 dollars, placed on board ship. Altogether the
+coca crop of Bolivia may reasonably be estimated at rather less than
+700,000 _cestos_, equal to about 78,000 tons.
+
+The analysis to which the coca leaves I brought home with me were
+subjected at Göttingen, was attended by most important results, though the
+experiments are far from being completed. It was reserved for one of the
+assistants of the chemical laboratory, named Albert Niemann, to discover
+in the leaves a peculiar crystallized organic base, to which, following
+the usual custom in such cases, the name Cocain has been given.[146]
+
+The lamented death of Dr. Albert Niemann in the flower of his youth, and
+in the midst of his promising labours, necessarily interrupted for a time
+the investigations into the nature and properties of cocain. M. Wöhler,
+however, in his capacity of Director of the Chemical Laboratory of the
+University, was so good as to assign to another able assistant, Mr. W.
+Lossen, the task of taking up the analysis at the point where its gifted
+discoverer had left it, when it was found that, when heated in chlorine,
+the cocain underwent a singular and astonishing metamorphosis, being in
+fact resolved into Benzoic acid and a new organic base, for which M.
+Wöhler proposes the name of Ecgonin (from [Greek: Echgonos] an off-shoot).
+Further researches with the coca leaves lead to the discovery of a second
+organic base, which, it would appear, is contained in its primitive form
+in the coca, the composition of which will be treated of in a forthcoming
+paper by Mr. Lossen. This base is in a liquid form, for which the
+provisional name hygrin (from [Greek:hugros], fluid) has been
+adopted.[147]
+
+Hitherto the experiments made to determine the physiological properties of
+cocain have been less important in their results, as it is only found in
+small quantities in the coca leaf, and an adequate quantity can only be
+obtained with great trouble and difficulty.[148] Consequently it is as yet
+impossible to decide the questions, whether one of these bases is stronger
+than the other, as also to which of the two are to be ascribed the
+peculiar properties of the plant. Singular enough, the various experiments
+with an effusion of the coca leaves had not the least result, while it is
+well known that the use of this kind of tea in the Cordilleras wonderfully
+stimulates the breathing powers of the traveller, besides satisfying his
+appetite.[149] It would also appear that the coca leaves lose part of
+their virtue in transit, and that their most intense activity is only
+developed in their native regions. If, however, the ultimate results of
+the experiments of Mr. Lossen, instituted with as much sagacity as zeal,
+should incontestably prove the value and utility of the plant for
+pharmaceutical purposes, as well as in all cases where the human strength
+is exposed to unwonted strains upon its energies, the means will surely
+and easily be found for extracting _on the spot_ the active principles of
+coca, as is being at present done by industrious Yankees in Ecuador, with
+the Cinchona or China bark.
+
+When the _Novara_ was leaving Batavia, I cherished the hope that our stay
+in South America would be sufficiently prolonged to admit of my making an
+excursion to the Cinchona forests, so as to enable me to speak
+authoritatively and from personal knowledge upon certain questions
+discussed at Lembang with Dr. Junghuhn,[150] which had hitherto been left
+unsettled or altogether unexamined, and which were of such deep import to
+the attempts being made in Java to cultivate the Cinchona. Circumstances,
+however, had conspired to render this impracticable. Instead of the entire
+expedition, as originally projected, visiting that classic region, it was
+reserved to myself, a solitary individual, to tread the scenes, where
+Humboldt once collected the first valuable contributions to science, and
+even then my time was so limited that my attention had to be confined to
+the capital of Peru, and the neighbouring country. Under these
+circumstances such a project as a regular scientific excursion deep into
+the heart of the Cinchona forests was entirely out of the question. I did
+not fail, however, to translate into Spanish and English, the disputed
+points which Dr. Junghuhn had requested me to ascertain for him, so that I
+might obtain such information upon these interesting questions from such
+of the friends I made in Peru or Chile as seemed likely, either in their
+own persons or by the opportunities for natural studies that might happen
+to characterize their place of residence, to advance our knowledge of the
+Cinchona tree and its cultivation. My different efforts to obtain reliable
+information on the cultivation of the China bark tree in its mother
+country were especially promoted by my having met, while at Lima, with Mr.
+Campbell, who, during the many years he has been settled at Tacna, has
+paid especial attention to the China bark trade. For the chief export of
+this important medicament is in the hands of the Bolivians, and not of the
+Peruvians, as the uninitiated might imagine from the name it is usually
+known by in commerce, viz. Peruvian bark.[151]
+
+The most important facts which I am here enabled to dwell upon relate to
+the correction of a widespread misconception, that owing to the thirst for
+plunder and the wilful neglect of the China tree in its own native
+regions, the supply of the valuable drug obtained from its bark, the
+well-known Countess'[152] or Jesuit bark, which to the practical physician
+is of scarcely less importance than the potato to the labouring man, is
+daily diminishing. The Calisaya region (i. e. the limits within which the
+C. Calisaya, the species that furnishes the most valuable bark, is found
+in its finest and most abundant state) extends from about one degree north
+of Lake Titicaca, or from 14° 30' to 20° S. In the forests of Cochabamba,
+between which place and La Paz is the principal district of the China
+tree, the tree is more frequently found than in those running parallel on
+either side with La Paz, in which it is usually met with at such a
+distance from the capital that it becomes valueless, owing to the cost of
+transport, which is as high as 17 dollars per 100 lbs. The more southerly
+forests are still quite virgin, and have never re-echoed the blows of the
+Cascarilleros' axe. The largest quantity is exported from Tacna through
+the port of Arica, only a small portion being smuggled northwards from
+Lake Titicaca, for shipment _viâ_ Port d'Islay. According to statistics,
+from 8000 to 10,000 cwt. of bark may be thus exported for any lapse of
+time, without the slightest danger of the tree getting exterminated. Since
+1845 the exportation of bark from Bolivia has been a Government monopoly,
+which has farmed out the privilege to a private company, that used to pay
+a certain annual premium based on an export of 4000 cwt. The company paid
+the Cascarilleros or other persons who collected the bark, 25 dollars to
+30 dollars for every hundredweight of Calisaya delivered in La Paz, the
+capital of Bolivia. The enterprise, however, proved only partially
+successful, since speculation, avarice and the continual political
+troubles and alterations of the Government, have each and all proved sore
+enemies to the peaceful development of the industry of the country. Each
+new President had only one thought, viz. how to make the largest profit by
+seizing on the natural wealth of the country, and only sought to increase
+the export of the bark for the sake of the monopoly. In 1850 a native
+commercial house in La Paz paid the bark-gatherers 60 pesos for every 100
+lbs., besides a duty to Government of 25 pesos additional, at the same
+time paying on an estimated export of 7000 cwt. The exorbitant wage thus
+granted to the Cascarilleros resulted in an enormous quantity of Calisaya
+being brought to La Paz from all parts of Bolivia, In order to preserve
+the public tranquillity, and not glut the market, the Bolivian Government
+now prohibited entirely the cutting or collecting of bark. Within eighteen
+months about 1400 tons of bark were brought in, and this gave the
+monopolists a perfect dread lest they should have to declare themselves
+bankrupt, and it was indeed only through the intervention of Government
+that they escaped. The latter took the entire stock on their own hands,
+paid the speculators with Treasury bonds, redeemable within a given number
+of years, and made a fresh contract with a native firm, which stipulated
+that the price at La Paz should be 65 dollars per 100 lbs., without
+further export duty.
+
+As soon as the stock in hand was exhausted, the prohibition against
+cutting Calisaya had of course to be rescinded, and in the interim the
+most decided steps were taken to check the superfluous, indeed dangerous,
+zeal of the Cascarilleros in the collection of the bark.
+
+While I was in Java chemical experiments had begun to be made with the
+bark of the young China trees, and from the fact that the valuable
+alkaloid was not found in these, it was hastily inferred that the bark of
+the trees grown in their adopted country had, owing to the change effected
+in climatic and other conditions, been deprived of the principle that made
+them most valuable in their native land. But researches made in South
+America have satisfied me, that even in the indigenous forests of
+Cinchona, the active principle quinine is only found in the bark of older
+trees, and that its quantity is perceptibly affected by the age of the
+tree, the finest quinine being obtained in largest quantities from trees
+upwards of fifty years old. To ignorance of this peculiarity must also be
+attributed in all probability the fact that, at the period of the Spanish
+rule, the China collectors or hunters (_Cazadores de Quina_) used to fell
+annually 800 or 900 young trees of from four to seven years old, to get at
+the 110 cwts. of fever-bark, which, intended exclusively for the use of
+the royal house, were shipped every year from Païta, and thence round the
+Horn to Cadiz.[153]
+
+So, too, with respect to the quantities annually exported at present from
+Bolivia and Peru, and used in European stores, there remain serious errors
+to correct, prevalent even among scientific circles. According to the
+latest estimates (which take cognizance of seven inferior sorts), there
+have been exported, between 1830 and 1860, not more than 10,000 tons,
+while of Calisaya, the specially valuable red bark (_Cascarilla roja_),
+not above 120,000 cwt. have been exported in all during the same period.
+While the annual export thus dwindles in dimensions from what had
+generally been supposed, there has lately been discovered in large
+quantities, in the forests between Tarija, Cochabamba, and La Paz, a
+species of Cinchona, whose bark is said to possess very much the same
+properties as the Calisaya. The curate of Tarija has offered for sale 3000
+cwt. of this valuable bark (called by the Indians Sucupira). The position
+of the forests in which this species of Cinchona is found is so favourable
+for exportation, that the cost of transport from Tarija to Iquique, the
+nearest port, would only amount to from 8 to 10 dollars per quintal.
+
+The departure of the mail steamer from Callao de Lima was fixed for the
+afternoon of 12th June, when several of my friends were so kind as to
+accompany me on board. In Callao I paid a short visit to H.M.S. _Ganges_,
+and then the U.S. frigate _Merrimac_ (destined in less than three years to
+acquire a mournful renown in the horrors of civil war, as also
+imperishable celebrity as the pioneer of iron navies), one of the finest
+and most powerful screw-ships of the North American navy, armed at that
+time with 32 cannon, and of 960-horse power. I had had the pleasure of
+becoming acquainted with the officers of both ships, partly in Valparaiso,
+partly in Lima. On board the _Ganges_ I experienced a not less cordial
+and kind reception, and Admiral Baines, as commander-in-chief of the
+British fleet in the Pacific, did me the honour of granting me an official
+pass to all captains of British ships, setting forth my scientific
+pursuits, and recommending me to their particular attention.
+
+On the morning of the 14th June, the good steamer _Valparaiso_, commanded
+by that courteous model of a British sailor, Captain Bloomfield, reached
+Huanchaco, the principal harbour of Truxillo, which is only six miles
+distant, and was once the capital of the northern portion of the empire of
+the Incas. The export of silver, wool, and cochineal from this port is
+pretty considerable. Here came on board a Scotchman named Blackwood, who
+for some years past had been cultivating cochineal in Truxillo, but was
+now, as he confessed, unable any longer to compete in its production with
+other countries, in consequence of the price of labour being so high, and
+the uncertain state of labour-supply. Mr. Blackwood intended proceeding
+_viâ_ California to the East Indies, where he hoped to light upon a more
+suitable field for cochineal-growing, the cost of labour there being still
+low, and there existing a constantly-increasing demand for that
+substance[154].
+
+On the 15th June we anchored in the roads of San José de Lambajeque in the
+department of Chola. The position of this village is so unsuitable, that
+it is only possible to effect a landing by means of what are called
+_Balsas_(rafts with sails), consisting of huge thick trunks of trees bound
+together. One of these curious contrivances conveyed on shore in safety 76
+passengers at once, together with all their miscellaneous effects!
+
+Fifteen miles north of Lambajeque lies the Indian village of Iting
+(Repose), with 5000 inhabitants, whose language is totally different from
+the Quichua dialect, usually spoken in the province. One Peruvian on his
+return from his travels even went so far as to say that the idiom of the
+Iting Indians strongly resembled that of the Chinese! In Monsefú, not
+quite two miles from Iting, lives an Indian population which speaks
+nothing but Spanish, and consequently can neither understand nor be
+understood by its neighbours! This singular state of things almost
+entitles us to conjecture that the Spanish conquerors have adopted here
+the same tactics as those they put in practice in Central America, where
+they repeatedly were at the pains to introduce among the subjugated
+tribes, colonies of another race frequently hostile to the aborigines, in
+order by difference of customs and language to render any united action
+against the common enemy almost impossible. I have myself frequently
+observed in the Central-American State of San Salvador, that, for
+instance, the Tlascaltecas, who speak the language of Montezuma, had been
+settled in the midst of foreign races. Such colonizations have almost
+invariably been effected for political purposes, and were compulsory,
+instead of being undertaken voluntarily.
+
+On 16th June we anchored in the beautiful and sheltered harbour of Payta.
+The little town itself has about 4000 inhabitants, who carry on a pretty
+brisk trade with the interior and along the coast. The principal article
+of export is hides, especially goat-skins, chinchilla fur (_Eriomys
+Chinchilla_), cotton, fruit, oil, herb-archel (_Roccella tinctoria_--used
+occasionally as a medicine, but more commonly as a dye,--the well-known
+litmus, used for chemical test papers, being prepared from it), and straw
+hats. Forty-five miles distant from Payta, in a beautiful and fertile
+neighbourhood, lies the town of Piura with 10,000 inhabitants, which
+carries on an extensive trade in fruit and vegetables along the coast, and
+indeed supplies Lima with its excellent produce.
+
+Payta harbour is visited annually by from fifty to sixty whalers, who take
+in fresh provisions here, do their repairs, and give their crews a little
+repose after long and heavy labours. The climate is very healthy and
+exceedingly dry. At the same time there is no lack of good water, which
+the Indians bring to the city from the river Chirar, 18 miles distant, in
+casks on mule-back. This mode of transport is so cheap, that the erection
+of a distilling apparatus in Payta would not pay. The cargo of one mule,
+about 12 gallons, would sell for about 2 reals (about 1_s._ 5-1/2_d._).
+Ships take in their supplies of water at Tumbez, a little further north.
+
+When I was at Payta, there were some twenty merchant ships in the harbour.
+The trade of the place was evidently increasing. This was indicated not
+alone by the energy of the inhabitants, but by a general well-to-do air.
+Large, round, broad-brimmed straw hats are annually exported to the value
+of 400,000 dollars. Of goat-skins, the annual stock is about 1200 cwt.; of
+herb-archel from 1500 to 2000 cwt. There are also at Payta some very
+remunerative manufactures of castor oil (from the _Ricinus communis_), and
+its cognate from the piñon bean (_Jatropha curcas_), both of which are
+found in large quantities in the interior. By an iron machine worked by
+steam some 85 gallons of the oil are made daily, part of which is used in
+the country for lamps and in the preparation of soap; but by far the
+largest portion is exported to the United States.
+
+A few weeks before I reached Payta, there had been accidentally found in a
+cave among the bare sand-hills which form the naked desolate environs of
+the town, a quantity of maize, which was supposed to have formed part of a
+stock which had been placed here by the Incas. It was of a smaller kind
+than that grown at the present day. The grains, notwithstanding the
+centuries they had lain interred, were in very tolerable preservation. All
+along the coast nothing was spoken of but this incident, as though some
+great treasure had been discovered, whereas it was but some 60 lbs. of
+maize that were found. Moreover, the interest felt by the Indians in this
+_trouvaille_ had nothing to do with its historic suggestiveness, but
+because their readily-inflamed imagination prefigured boundless stores of
+maize yet to be lighted upon and made available, without their having to
+labour for them!
+
+In the course of the afternoon we left Payta, and next day sighted the
+island of La Plata, distant about 10 miles from the mainland. A tradition,
+constantly in the mouth of the people, to the effect that the ancient
+Incas buried here a large amount of treasure, has led to many formal
+expeditions having been dispatched to this island at various times, every
+one of which, however, proved abortive. We now began to find the
+temperature perceptibly rising; for a few hours it rose from 65° to 76°
+Fahr.
+
+At 6 P.M. of the 20th, we reached the Taboga Islands, a group of lovely
+islets, about 11 miles from Panama, where are the warehouses and wharves
+of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company. Taboga Island, the most important
+of the group, is only one mile and a half long by half a mile broad, but
+with the adjacent islet of Taboquilla, forms a very convenient
+crescent-shaped harbour, which unites to a secure haven a tolerably
+healthy climate, so that during the unhealthy season, when the yellow
+fever sometimes commits fearful ravages in Panama, many of the inhabitants
+resort to this island, which, up to the year 1858, had remained entirely
+free of the scourge.
+
+Late in the evening the English and American papers came on board, from
+which we got the first intelligence of the march of events at the seat of
+war in Italy, as also of another world-wide calamity,--the death of
+Alexander von Humboldt. Even here on the shores of the far Pacific, the
+intelligence of the greatest naturalist of our age having departed from
+among us, made a deep and powerful impression, which not even the tempests
+which impended over the political horizon, and threatened to envelope the
+entire world, could allay. Although the outbreak of hostilities between
+two such powers as France and Austria must inevitably react severely upon
+the condition of the inhabitants of North and South America, yet little
+was discussed respecting events in Italy; while the obituary notice of
+Humboldt was read aloud in the cabin, and many a fellow-traveller
+inscribed on a slip of paper for preservation those beautiful words which
+the noble and venerable old savant is said to have spoken, when on a
+lovely sunny May-day his spirit winged its flight from our planet, whose
+physical constitution his mighty mind had more closely investigated and
+comprehended than any other mortal of our day. "How gloriously those
+sunbeams dart forth; they seem as though inviting the earth to the
+heavens!"
+
+Thus it was forbidden to the members of the Expedition to find the great
+naturalist yet alive on their return to their common native land! How full
+of meaning did those touching words now prove, and how fall of mournful
+memories, with which Humboldt concluded his scientific suggestions to the
+_Novara_ voyagers, when he prayed to Almighty God, "That His Holy Spirit
+would be with this great and splendid undertaking to the honour of the
+common Fatherland!" The _Novara_ staff above all must doubly regret the
+death of the "Nestor of Science." The warm and active interest he took in
+their expedition contributed in no small degree to advance its scientific
+efficiency, and if it be the privilege of the _Novara_ to live in the
+memory of the scientific world, it will, as the Archduke Ferdinand
+Maximilian himself expressed it in a letter to the venerable philosopher,
+"redound in its honour to the latest ages, that it was permitted to
+associate its name with that of Humboldt, who for three generations of men
+has been associated with every triumph that has been achieved in the
+domain of science."
+
+On the 21st, at 7 A.M., we anchored in the roads of Panama. Large ships
+are obliged to lie to from two to three miles off shore, as the beach is
+nothing but "slike," and at ebb-tide presents an immense unsightly
+expanse.
+
+The town of Panama (many fish), built on low green hills amid the most
+magnificent forms of tropical vegetation, presents when viewed from
+seaward a most lovely, enchanting aspect, especially to the traveller
+coming from the sterile sandy shores of the west coast of South America.
+As soon, however, as he sets foot on the shore, and has entered the
+precincts of the city, his first pleasing impressions are rudely
+dispelled. The streets are everywhere narrow and filthy, the houses low
+and poverty-stricken in appearance; even upon their roofs the luxuriance
+of tropical vegetation bursts forth! Moreover the chief square with its
+cathedral leaves an impression of decay. Only a few of the houses situate
+near the beach, the property of strangers, and a few of the hotels, have
+anything of a respectable appearance. The whole population does not exceed
+8000 to 9000 inhabitants, of whom about 500 are whites, the rest being
+negroes and mestizoes. At the time when the railroad was being made across
+the Isthmus, in the construction of which thousands of Irish and Chinese
+fell victims to the climate and the severity of the work, the experiment
+was made of introducing negroes from Jamaica, whose cosmopolitan nature
+asserted itself by their having increased and multiplied even here. At
+present there are upwards of 100,000 negroes on and near the Isthmus.
+
+The expense of living in Panama is no longer so exorbitant as it was ten
+years ago, at the period of the first emigration to the newly-discovered
+gold-fields of California, when there was no railroad, and the journey
+across the Isthmus was made partly on mules, partly in small canoes. For
+from three to four dollars a day, one gets very fair board and lodging at
+the best hotels. The most expensive item is washing, the charge being 2
+dollars (8_s._) a dozen!! In a climate where European cleanliness
+necessitates frequent change of apparel, this item alone amounts to some
+25 dollars to 30 dollars per month for a single person! Accordingly, it is
+found to be more economical to fling away several articles of the toilette
+as soon as they have been soiled, and purchase a fresh supply, rather than
+pay this heavy tax on the purification of the old garments.
+
+The North American Company, which maintains direct communication between
+California and New York, has made such excellent arrangements, that the
+passengers on their arrival in Panama by the train are conveyed in a small
+steamer from the station, which is close to the shore, out to the large
+steamer lying in the roads, which is to convey them to California. The
+entire time occupied in convoying 700 or 800 passengers with their usually
+rather heavy baggage from Colon across the Isthmus, and thence to their
+re-embarkation in the steamer upon the West Coast, does not exceed ten
+hours. The hotel-keepers of Panama, on the other hand, complain sorely of
+this arrangement, for whereas formerly no passenger ever crossed the
+Isthmus without spending one dollar at least, hundreds now pass through
+without ever setting a foot in the city.
+
+When I was in Panama there existed an "Opposition Line" of steamers, a
+genuine American institution, of which we have occasional examples in
+Europe, but which is only to be seen in its fall bloom in the United
+States. Formerly, the fare for a deck-passage from New York to San
+Francisco was 160 dollars (£33 10_s._). The "Opposition Line" lowered the
+fare to 35 dollars, and as out of this sum 25 dollars had to be paid to
+the railway, there remained only 10 dollars (£2 2_s._) for the cost of
+transport and maintenance of passengers on board large handsome steamers
+from New York to San Francisco! For the public at large this was
+undoubtedly a vast benefit, and in consequence of the unexampled lowness
+of fares, an immense number of persons had gone to California during the
+last preceding few months. Whereas formerly only adventurers, speculators,
+or persons of means, could turn their eyes on the land of gold, a poor but
+industrious labouring population now pressed eagerly thither. Of course,
+however, it was too good to last:--no enterprise could continue upon such
+ruinous principles. It was the war of large capital against small;
+whichever could longest stand the incessant drain, remained in possession
+of the field. Occasionally, however, a "compromise" is effected between
+the two parties, but in that case the public is usually the sufferer,
+since in order to make up for past extravagance, the two quondam foes
+combine to keep up exorbitant rates.
+
+The salubrity of Panama, though still unhealthy enough during the wet
+season (May to September), is undoubtedly better than it ever was in
+former years. The doses of quinine pills with which people used to be
+presented in society, very much the same way as a pinch of snuff, have
+become infrequent, neither is it now the custom to drink sherry or brandy
+and water with quinine in it. Indeed, were foreign settlers to abstain
+from the practice of frequent meals, which even in more temperate climes
+cannot be continued in with impunity, the health of the inhabitants would
+benefit greatly. I repeatedly heard it maintained that the use of ice,
+which at present can be got in large quantities and at very low rates upon
+the whole Isthmus, and forms an ingredient of every beverage, and many
+dishes even, has materially improved the hygienic conditions of Panama.
+About 360 tons of ice are imported into Panama annually, or about one ton
+per diem. The whole quantity is supplied from the North American lakes,
+chiefly from Boston, and is sold in gross at 7 dollars 50 cents (about £1
+25_s._) per 100 lbs., the retail price being a trifle over a shilling per
+pound. In order to avoid a glut which might make ice importation
+unremunerative, and endanger the steadiness of the supply, the Government
+has kept in its own hands the monopoly of the ice-trade.
+
+By Dr. Lebreton, a French physician long settled in Panama, who, together
+with an Austrian gentleman, Dr. Kratochwil from Saaz in Bohemia, placed me
+under the deepest obligation for their cordial hospitality, I was
+furnished with a variety of most interesting details of the sanitary
+statistics of the Isthmus, and some curious and valuable particulars
+respecting the poison with which the Indians arm their arrow-tips. In
+Panama is published a most ably-edited daily paper in English, the
+"_Panama Star and Herald_," conducted by two Americans, Messrs. Power and
+Boyd, which so fully and impartially treats of the political, social, and
+commercial condition of the Isthmus and the South American Republics, as
+makes it indispensable for every one to subscribe to it who takes any
+interest in the development of this remarkable country. It is chiefly due
+to these two large-minded, far-seeing gentlemen that we possess a
+statistical detail of the very important commerce of the Isthmus, as well
+as along the west coast of South America. These figures now lie before
+me, and give better than anything else a fair and complete estimate of its
+present activity, which, it may be remarked _en passant_, has owed nothing
+to the natives, but is entirely due to the energy of foreigners.
+
+No fewer than 64 powerful mail steamers, of the united burthen of 96,000
+tons, and representing a money value of at least £4,000,000, ply, part on
+the Atlantic side (Southampton _viâ_ St. Thomas, and New York to
+Aspinwall), part on the Pacific side to the various harbours on the west
+coast of America, and keep up regular communication between Europe and
+that series of States, consisting of not less than 11,000,000 human
+beings. The value of the products and merchandise annually passing to and
+fro across the Isthmus amounts to about £15,000,000, while the amount of
+precious metals is not very much less.
+
+The pearl-fishery in the Gulf of Panama has of late years notably fallen
+off from its former importance. At present it lags far behind that of the
+Persian Gulf, from which there are annually about £300,000 worth brought
+up, whereas here, notwithstanding the enormous extent of the
+pearl-oyster-banks, the yearly take of pearls does not exceed £24,000.
+Indeed the fishery is carried on less for its costly contents than for the
+sake of the mother-of-pearl itself, of which some 800 or 900 tons are
+shipped annually.
+
+On 23rd June I went by rail from Panama to Aspinwall, on the Atlantic
+side. Except on the days when the steamers on either side bring their
+fortnightly quota of passengers, the traffic of the line is very small.
+When, however, the passenger steamer at either end has disembarked her
+living freight, the Isthmus is all alive, and the coffers of the Company
+are amply replenished. The number of passengers both ways annually has
+been estimated at from 36,000 to 40,000, and the gross receipts of the
+Company at from £200,000 to £300,000.[155]
+
+The fare for the somewhat short distance, 47 miles, is high. There is but
+one class of carriage, and the charge is £5 5_s._, besides 10 cents
+(5_d._) for every pound of baggage above 30 lbs. But it must always be
+borne in mind that enormous difficulties had to be overcome in the
+construction of the line, and that the cost of maintaining the permanent
+way in anything like order is very great, in consequence of the climate
+and the rich tropical vegetation. Whoever has struggled through the almost
+impenetrable forests of the Isthmus, before the rail passed through it,
+and bears in mind the immense physical difficulties of that laborious
+operation, would thankfully pay double the sum now charged for performing
+within a few hours a journey which often occupied a whole week.
+
+The construction of the Panama Railroad was commenced in 1850, the first
+sod being cut on the Atlantic side. On 27th January, 1855, the locomotive
+first performed the journey from ocean to ocean. The cost of construction
+amounted to about £1,100,000.[156] This capital was speedily subscribed by
+the eager speculative Yankees, and, as the result proved, insured from the
+very first to the shareholders a handsome constantly-increasing dividend.
+
+The concession enjoyed by the Company from the Government of New Granada
+only lasts for twenty years, from the day on which the entire line is
+opened; on the expiry of that period the New Granada Government must
+either pay down 5,000,000 dollars (the entire cost of construction), or
+extend the concession for ten years more. At the expiration of this second
+term, the Government may purchase for 4,000,000 dollars, or grant a third
+term of equal length, after which they are to be at liberty to purchase it
+for 2,000,000 dollars.
+
+The traffic managers of the line, Messrs. Lewine and Dorsay, showed me the
+most polite attention. The resident director, Mr. Center, whose office is
+in Aspinwall, and to whom I had letters of introduction, invited me by
+telegraph to make free use of the line, as nothing would give him greater
+pleasure than to become of some service to a scientific traveller. I took
+with me fourteen goodly packages, chiefly collections of natural history.
+Most of these required great care and attention, some on account of their
+fragile texture, others in consequence of being of a perishable nature.
+All these were transported with as much care as though they had been
+charged the very highest rate of freight. The treatment of scientific
+travellers is to some extent a measure of the degree of civilization of a
+people. Hence it is that the North American States and the British
+colonies are the points of the globe where the efforts of scientific
+travellers elicit the heartiest sympathy, where he may count upon the most
+friendly reception, and the most cordial co-operation in carrying out the
+objects he has in view. And speaking now after ten years of the most
+varied experiences of travel, I look back thankfully to the conspicuous
+evidences of good-will which I have universally received from all
+Americans, from the banks of the St. Lawrence to the shores of the Gulf of
+Mexico, and recall with gratitude how every class of the community
+bestirred itself to promote and facilitate the scientific researches of a
+solitary traveller,--how, more particularly, the press, that great power
+of the intellect, lent the utmost assistance of its influential position
+to forward my wishes, and how its columns, thanks to the interest its
+conductors themselves felt, were always open in the most remote districts
+to welcome the stranger. And now, when for a second time I received from
+the sons of that same mighty republic the same cordiality of welcome, I
+recalled with redoubled vivacity the happiness of those long-vanished but
+most pleasant days, as I record this tribute with so much the more
+satisfaction, that I felt it was not the individual but his profession
+that was thus honoured, as is abundantly proved by the experience of many
+another scientific traveller.
+
+The journey across the Isthmus, right through the heart of the primeval
+forest, which was decked out in its gayest attire, is one of the most
+exciting, soul-stirring scenes that the eye of the lover of nature ever
+rested upon. In no part of the world have I seen more luxuriant and
+abundant vegetation than is presented by the forests of Central America,
+and more especially upon the Isthmus. And, as if to heighten still further
+the sense of marvel and enchantment, one traverses this magnificent forest
+landscape behind a locomotive running on its iron track. What a contrast!
+The wild ravel of creepers and the green feathery branches of the palms
+almost penetrate into the waggons, and tell with unmistakeable emphasis
+that the traveller is indeed surrounded by all the beauties of Nature in
+her tropic garb. Trees of the most varied description and of colossal
+dimensions flourish in the foreign garment of a borrowed adornment.
+Between each solitary giant of a forest tree, parasites and _Lianæ_ spread
+their delicate green coils, while many a gigantic stem, enveloped in
+thousands of beautiful shoots, or dead trunk choked in the embrace of a
+parasitic creeper, attracts the eye as the train speeds past. So quick and
+so strong is the process of vegetation here, that every section of this
+line has twice in each year to be freed from the encroachments of the
+forest-children; nay, were the line to be left unused but for one
+twelvemonth, it would be difficult to discover any trace of its existence,
+so completely within that time would the whole district become once more a
+wilderness!
+
+The physico-geographical conditions of the Isthmus have only latterly been
+made the subject of profound and exhaustive study by a German naturalist,
+who has published the result of his researches. The justly-dreaded climate
+was the main cause of its having been so long left unexamined. To that
+keen indefatigable _savant_, Dr. Moritz Wagner, my whilom faithful
+travelling companion through Northern and Central America, is due the
+praise of having first accurately and analytically investigated the
+territory of the Isthmus,--that dam which separates two ocean worlds as it
+may be considered from one point of view,--that bridge which unites two
+immense continents as it may be regarded from another,--and who, in so
+doing, has contributed many new and important facts to our previous stock
+of statistics respecting the hypsometrical and geognostic features of the
+Isthmus, as well as to the geographical distribution of the forms of
+organic life which are found there.
+
+In the course of constructing the railroad, the geological profile of the
+country was laid open through a length of 47 miles. This fortunate
+circumstance the German naturalist availed himself of as an excellent
+opportunity for carrying out his design, but his labours were none the
+less beset with difficulties, and only his indomitable perseverance could
+have carried him through the tropical intermittent fevers and mental
+anxiety, which at one time threatened to prostrate his physical strength,
+or even to lay him in his grave. Wagner had been first struck by the very
+remarkable evidence of an entire alteration in the form of the hills
+between Veragua and Obispo. This change in the vertical configuration, the
+decided depression of the Cordilleras, which is most apparent between
+Limon Bay (at the mouth of the Chagres river) and the Gulf of Panama, is
+just as much an important geological fact for physical geography, and for
+solving the important questions of the present and future commerce so
+intimately connected with the artificially cutting through of this neck of
+land, as the change in the horizontal configuration or the sudden
+compression of this part of the world in the north-west of the province of
+Choco, or the rugged steepness that characterizes the range of hills which
+forms the contour of the coast-line. The geological and botanical
+specimens, those most reliable of all data for physical generalization,
+with which Wagner illustrates his interesting exposition of the natural
+character, the prevailing formations, and the most prominent
+representations of the vegetation of the Isthmus, form at present a
+valuable part of the collections of natural history in the Museum of
+Munich.
+
+The journey across is not made at the speed one would expect on a line
+where the locomotive is in charge of a Yankee. It takes four hours to do
+the 47-1/2 English miles. The stations are very numerous, often situate in
+the heart of the forest, where there are only a few labourers' huts.
+Moreover, halts are frequent at spots where there are no passengers
+visible, either to take up or set down. One of the most beautiful of the
+stations is that at the little village of Paraiso, about nine miles
+distant from Panama, which lies in a kettle-shaped glade. At this point
+large clearings have been made, and the eye ranges over a rather more
+extended landscape, only bounded in fact by the contour of the
+neighbouring hills. The only inhabitants are negroes, mulattoes, and
+mestizoes, who for the most part are employed as labourers on the line. A
+few miles after leaving Paraiso, the train reaches the station of Culebra,
+or, as it is more generally called by the inhabitants, "the Summit," the
+narrow steep rise of which marks the water-shed between the Rio Grande,
+falling into the Pacific, and the Rio Chagres, which debouches into the
+Caribbean Sea. This is the highest point of the line. The actual height of
+the pass is 287 English feet, but it has been lowered by about 25 feet, so
+that Summit station is only 262 feet above the mean level of the ocean.
+
+The most important village along the line is Matachin, a large straggling
+village, which, however, seems to be inhabited exclusively by negroes,
+mulattoes, and Zamboes. As I have previously remarked, the majority of the
+labourers on the line emigrated hither from the West Indies, especially
+Jamaica, attracted by the high wages of labour, and after it was
+completed, settled along its course in neat, clean, but small cottages.
+And whereas the baleful tropical climate decimated every other class of
+labourer employed during the construction of the lines, these latter have
+flourished here better than any other description of settler. They seem to
+be universally healthy and well fed, and their oceans of children, who
+impart life to the landscape, attest that the women have not lost their
+fertility. They all seemed to be well and were neatly clothed. However,
+when I crossed, it happened to be a holiday, and consequently every one
+wore his Sunday dress, clean white trowsers, white shirt, and a
+narrow-brimmed hat of fine straw.
+
+Near Barbacoa station the eye of the traveller, that has hitherto revelled
+in the voluptuous beauties of nature, rests with pleasure on a splendid
+trophy of human industry, an iron bridge, 600 feet long, which spans the
+River Chagres at this point. It was on one of the Cerros, a little west of
+Barbacoa, that Vasco Nuñez de Balboa first beheld both the Atlantic and
+the Pacific oceans at once, and, regarding his stand-point in the Isthmus
+as a mere handful of earth, may have imagined himself a conqueror, whose
+glance comprehended both worlds.
+
+The last portion of the line, as we near the Atlantic side, passes over
+vast swamps, which rendered the construction of this portion of the road
+exceedingly difficult and very expensive. Aspinwall itself moreover, the
+terminus of the Inter-oceanic Railway, lies on a small island, two-thirds
+of the surface of which is morass, and covered with tropical marsh
+vegetation. This station was selected, notwithstanding its very
+unwholesome climate, chiefly because the roadstead of Limon Bay furnishes
+a safe anchorage in all weathers for vessels of even the largest size.
+
+This small island, only 7000 feet long by 5800 wide, which was first named
+from the immense quantity of _Hippomane mancinella_, a tree with a very
+powerful poison, that is found on it, and is now called "Isla de
+Manzanilla," was formally made over by the New Granada Government to the
+American Company at the beginning of the works in the year 1852, and was
+used by it for the new city, as also for the erection of warehouses, &c.
+
+Aspinwall, or Colon, as it is sometimes called, numbers at present some
+1500 inhabitants, of whom 150 are North Americans and English, the rest
+negroes and mulattoes. The little town, with its neat frame-houses and
+clean cottages, involuntarily reminds one of the new settlements in the
+North American States. Here, besides the residences of the officials, are
+the warehouses and workshops of the Company. In the latter about 700
+workmen are employed, while four schooners maintain uninterrupted
+communication between Aspinwall and New York, for the purpose of providing
+for the various wants of the crowded establishment. Even the very
+provisions are imported from North America. The resident director, Mr. A.
+J. Center, received me with the most hearty welcome, and during my entire
+stay continued to display the same kindness and interest, which he
+manifested from the moment he received my letter of introduction.
+
+In Aspinwall the climate has within the last few years become more
+salubrious than at the period of the first colonization, when "Chagres
+fever" acquired a gruesome reputation, and no resident who stayed above
+two months in the place escaped the attack of the fever. Even mules and
+dogs could not escape the universal malaria. However, to this day a
+lengthened residence on this marshy soil is not unattended with danger,
+although the miasmatic poison has undoubtedly lost much of its virulence.
+The negroes longest resist its dangerous effect, after whom come the
+coolies, then the Europeans, while the Chinese are invariably the earliest
+attacked.[157]
+
+On 23rd June, about midnight, I left Limon Bay in the steamer _Medway_.
+Having been committed to the charge of her captain by the kind attention
+of Mr. B. Cowan, the English Consul in Aspinwall, I found myself more
+comfortable and better attended to on board this small filthy old tub than
+I could possibly have expected. The Company avowedly employ in the
+Intercolonial lines the worst and most uncomfortable of their vessels, and
+the traveller who has to make any short passage, for instance, among the
+West India islands, is exposed to the doubly disagreeable feeling of
+paying a very much higher rate of fare, for very inferior accommodation.
+The _Medway_ was an old acquaintance of mine in my previous West Indian
+rambles, as in former years she performed the mail service between Belize,
+Jamaica, Hayti, Porto Rico, St. Thomas, and Havanna, and this opportunity
+of renewing my acquaintance with her I hailed with anything but a
+sentiment of satisfaction.
+
+Early on the 25th June we ran into the extensive and beautiful bay of
+Carthagena, which now-a-days is only accessible on one side, the second
+entrance having been destroyed by the Spaniards during their supremacy,
+and never reopened. This seaport contains about 11,000 inhabitants, many
+churches and monasteries, as also large fortifications, but of trade and
+commerce there is next to nothing. In the roads there lay but three small
+coasting crafts. For the naturalist, and especially for the zoologist,
+Carthagena is on the other hand classic soil.
+
+Our steamer was fairly beleaguered by shoals of small canoes with natives
+on board, who offered for sale any quantity of the most various and
+beautiful little denizens of the surrounding country. Any naturalist who
+should spend a short time here, might, with the assistance of the Indians,
+who seem to be both zealous and apt collectors, get together an extensive
+and most valuable zoological and botanical collection. Carthagena indeed
+presents in particular great advantages for the shipment to Europe alive
+of the more interesting animals. These steamers do not take much above a
+fortnight hence to England, and if dispatched about May or June, the
+animals would sustain but little detriment from the change to a European
+climate at that season. Thus on the present voyage of the _Medway_ there
+were numbers of animals and chests of plants in full bloom, consigned to
+various museums and private collections in England.
+
+On 30th June we anchored in the small but delightful harbour of St.
+Thomas, with bright green hills forming a picturesque back-ground,
+relieved by the white houses of the inhabitants picturesquely grouped
+along their slopes.
+
+St. Thomas had changed little from what I remembered it at my previous
+visit in 1855. At the last census it had 15,000 inhabitants, and its trade
+is visibly increasing. It is, however, extremely difficult to get at the
+statistics of the annual amount of shipping here, as there is no
+toll-house, and the Danish Government publishes no official information as
+to the general trade. According to a German merchant long resident here,
+the number of foreign ships of all nations entering and leaving the port
+amounts to 860 annually, of coasters about 3500, while the annual value of
+merchandise so transshipped is about 6,000,000 dollars. One very
+remarkable trade is that in ice, which reaches the enormous amount of 1000
+tons annually, chiefly for distribution among the adjoining islands, by
+far the largest proportion of which comes from Boston, where it is worth
+20 dollars per ton, and at St. Thomas 80 dollars per ton, or 3-1/2 cents
+per lb. One may conceive that the entire ice-trade to the West Indies,
+South America, China, the Malay Archipelago, and the East Indies is in the
+hands of the keen North Americans, who evince a capacity for making a
+genial use of a natural phenomenon, which a less speculative race of men
+associate with the idea of cold, discomfort, and stagnation of
+intercourse.
+
+M. A. Rüse, a wealthy chemist and zealous naturalist, by whom as by other
+German residents I was most kindly received, has acquired much distinction
+from his profound acquaintance with the lower animals of the West Indies,
+of which he possesses a small but valuable collection, chiefly of the
+Fauna of the islands of St. Thomas, Ste. Croix and Trinidad, and was so
+exceedingly courteous as to present me with duplicates of several of the
+most interesting. M. Krebs, merchant, and M. Kjaer harbour-master, also in
+their hours of relaxation gave me much valuable information on kindred
+topics, the latter gentleman farther presenting me with specimens from an
+excellent collection he had formed of petrifactions.
+
+What, however, afforded me the sincerest satisfaction on the occasion of
+my present visit to St. Thomas, was the striking examples of industry,
+intelligence, and social comfort of the negro population. Of all nations
+among whom this curse of slavery has been implanted, the Danes have best
+comprehended how practically to solve the difficult problem of
+emancipation. The number of slaves in Danish colonies was at all times
+very small, and their manumission consequently more easy. Nevertheless
+the mode adopted in getting rid of the evil is deserving of attention and
+imitation. The duty of labouring does not cease with the means of
+compelling it. Slaves emancipated by the Danish Government may spend the
+wages they receive for their labour at their own discretion, and are
+permitted to change masters at pleasure, but they cannot quit their former
+employer till they have found a fresh one. The rate of wages at St. Thomas
+is pretty high, and the black population, who form the largest contingent
+of the labouring population, not only finds constant occupation, but is
+remarkably well paid besides. The negroes on this island are, however,
+very handy and quick, thanks to the constant intercourse with foreign
+nations. Many of them speak several languages fluently, and a German
+traveller who visits the island for the first time is apt to be not a
+little surprised at finding himself addressed in his mother-tongue by a
+swarthy son of Africa.
+
+Our departure was fixed for 1st July. The various mail steamers which had
+been expected from the different ports of the West Indies and the eastern
+coast of Central America, had all arrived. The fine and comfortable but
+old and slow steamer _Magdalena_ was to leave for Europe at noon. Suddenly
+a sailing vessel came in like a Job's comforter, with the intelligence
+that the splendid new steamer _Paramatta_, which was about due with the
+mails from England, had on her first voyage gone ashore on the Anegada
+shoal near the island of Virgin Gorda, 60 nautical miles from St. Thomas,
+and with her 40 passengers, and a valuable cargo, was in need of instant
+relief. This intelligence again delayed our departure. It was at first
+determined to send off every disposable steamer to the scene of the
+disaster, and to detain the _Magdalena_, till full particulars of the
+mischance had been obtained, for transmission to the directors in London.
+Afterwards it was arranged that the _Magdalena_ should proceed to the spot
+where the _Paramatta_ was lying nearly high and dry, to assist if possible
+in floating the ship off the reef.
+
+At 6 P.M. accordingly we steamed out of the Bay of St. Thomas. On the
+present occasion the _Magdalena_ had 163 passengers on board, the majority
+of whom were planters from the various West India islands, bound on a
+pleasure trip during the hot season. Not merely the black servants, but
+even their white and chocolate-coloured masters, broke out into the most
+marvellous English or French jargon, according as they came from Jamaica
+and Demerara, from Martinique, Guadaloupe, or Hayti. The presence of a
+great number of children, who, so long as they kept free of sea-sickness,
+evidently considered the whole of the quarter-deck as especially designed
+for them to play on, in which notion they were zealously upheld by their
+mothers and their nurses, made the passage anything but agreeable.
+Moreover, the impression made by the grown-up passengers was such as to
+heighten one's aspirations for a speedy voyage. The intelligence which had
+been received from the seat of war in Italy gave rise to much excitement,
+and within the first twelve hours had made it apparent that it was vain
+to hope for a pleasant voyage. Nothing was heard on every side but
+politics, and it may be left to the reader to guess in what tone they
+would be discussed, when Frenchmen, heated with visions of _la gloire
+militaire_, were the principal spokesmen.
+
+Early the next morning we were near the reef, which had disabled the
+largest and finest of the Company's ships, that had just cost £140,000.
+The unfortunate ship had struck the reef when running 11 knots an hour,
+and now lay on her starboard side on the reef, having careened so far over
+that her port paddle-wheel was quite clear of the water. A committee on
+the spot having decided that she must be entirely dismantled before even
+her bare hull could be got off the reef, it was resolved not to detain the
+_Magdalena_, it being thought desirable that she should as speedily as
+possible make her way to Southampton, so as to enable the directors at
+once to determine what course to adopt, before the sailing of the next
+steamer. Our captain was furnished with a general account of the accident,
+together with a sketch by the head engineer of the position of the
+_Paramatta_, and with these the _Magdalena_ was permitted to take her
+departure.
+
+The voyage threatened to be long and tedious, though attempts were made to
+enliven the mornings and evenings by music, and an occasional dance on
+deck. The former might have been made very agreeable, had not the _chef
+d'orchestre_, who was second steward, ventured on playing his own
+compositions as often as possible. To please the susceptibilities of the
+two nationalities, _God save the Queen_ and _Partant pour la Syrie_ were
+regularly called for each night. A more serious cause of alarm was the
+fear lest we should have to put into some intermediate port to coal. When
+she left St. Thomas the _Magdalena_ had 1200 tons on board, but as,
+notwithstanding constant calms and a sea like a mill-pond, she never made
+above 190 to 220 miles in the early part of the voyage, at a consumption
+of 70 tons per day, there seemed every prospect of our exhausting our
+supply. As she consumed her stock, however, she lightened perceptibly,
+till she even got up to the for her unusual speed of 280 miles a day. How
+different from the same Company's ships _Atrato_ and _La Plata_, which
+frequently make 340 miles a day, and in fact average only 13 days on the
+passage home, while the average of the _Magdalena_ and her consorts is 18
+days!
+
+At last, on 18th July, we sighted the Lizard's. Although barely 200 miles
+from our destination, the captain thought it best to put into the nearest
+port for a supply of coal, and shortly after noon we anchored in Falmouth
+Harbour, where the first intelligence we got was that peace had been
+concluded. Singular to say, even this intelligence produced no accession
+of harmony between the two great political parties on board. As for
+myself, I had kept as much as possible by myself; and now stepping ashore,
+I wandered through the narrow dirty streets of Falmouth, which presents
+the accurate type of the old-fashioned English provincial town. The
+meadows and sloping hills around shone forth in all the fresh verdure of
+spring. Even the traveller fresh from the voluptuous loveliness of the
+tropics, finds ever new beauties in the manifold variety of nature. The
+more the student of Nature walks with her and finds in her his chief
+pleasures, the more receptive does his soul become for all that is
+marvellous and beautiful, as from day to day they present themselves in
+new and unexpected phases.
+
+The same evening the _Magdalena_ resumed her voyage, and about noon on the
+19th we passed the renowned "Needles," and in two hours afterwards reached
+Southampton. Dire was the confusion on board, each person wishing to have
+his own trunk conveyed on shore the first. I found with my voluminous
+boxes the most courteous consideration. It sufficed to explain the object
+of my travels to have all my luggage passed without examination. For down
+to the English Custom House officials, who are not, it must be confessed,
+prone to show much tenderness to travellers' baggage, extends that
+honourable feeling of respect for science which Englishmen of all grades
+seem to entertain. The same evening I reached London.
+
+As the next steamer for Gibraltar was not to leave for eight days, I
+immediately started to London, and availed myself of this opportunity to
+renew old acquaintance, and make up my leeway as regarded the important
+strides and valuable discoveries made in the fields of science during my
+long absence from Europe. The warm interest and cordial reception I met
+with from such gentlemen as Sir Roderick Murchison, General Sabine, Sir
+Charles Lyell, Professor Owen, Dr. Gray, Mr. Henry Reeve, Mr. Crawford,
+Mr. John Murray, Mr. Ellis, and many others, was the most gratifying and
+conclusive evidence of the interest and high expectations which the
+_Novara_ Expedition had excited among scientific circles in England.
+
+On 27th July I embarked on board the P. and O. Company's steamer _Behar_,
+Captain Black, _en route_ to Gibraltar, which I reached after a passage of
+4-1/2 days, and, what is still more curious, by a singular coincidence, at
+the very same moment when the _Novara_, with every stitch of canvas set,
+was proudly careering through the famous Straits!! As the noble frigate
+shot past our steamer, Captain Black saluted, and was so thoughtfully kind
+as to signal the _Novara_ that I was among his passengers. Very soon
+after, both ships anchored in the roads of Gibraltar. In the course of my
+overland journey from Valparaiso to Gibraltar, I had travelled 8832
+nautical miles, and had been but 29 days actually travelling.
+
+I now felt pervaded by a sentiment of profoundest gratitude to a
+benevolent fate, which had led me safely and pleasantly through so many
+dangers till I rejoined that Expedition with which not alone the best and
+happiest remembrances of my life are henceforth associated, but which
+opened to me the unspeakably gratifying prospect of being better able to
+contribute, by extended knowledge and experience, to the advancement of
+science in my native land!
+
+
+                              FOOTNOTES:
+
+[120] The fares, first class (including provisions and bedding, but
+without wine), are as follows:
+
+                                         Miles    Dols.     £  s. d.
+  Valparaiso to Callao de Lima           1467       95  or  19 19  0
+
+  Callao to Panama                       1594      110  "   23  2  0
+
+  Aspinwall (E. coast of Isthmus  }
+    of Panama) to St. Thomas, and }      4572      360  "   75 12  0
+    thence to Southampton         }
+
+  Total, exclusive of 49 miles of }
+    rail from Colon to Panama     }      7633      565  "  118 13  0
+
+[121] Hitherto, the coal procured at Lota in the south of Chile has been
+neglected, in consequence of the freight being so heavy that it is cheaper
+to import coals from England and North America.
+
+[122] See "On the Source and Supply of Cubic Saltpetre, or Nitrate of
+Soda, and its use in small quantities as a Restorative to Corn-crops, by
+Philip Pusey." London, W. Clowes and Sons, 1853.
+
+[123] The proportion as found along the coast is 93 to 95 per cent. of
+saltpetre, to 7 to 5 per cent. of earth.
+
+[124] The export, however, is constantly increasing. In 1858 it amounted
+to 61,000 tons, in 1859 to 78,000, of which 22,500 tons went to England,
+15,200 to France, and the remainder to Germany.
+
+[125] From Arica there are bridle-paths to Potosi, Oruru, Cochabamba, La
+Paz, Chuquisaca, and Calamaca, probably the highest inhabited point of the
+earth's surface, where a population of 800 souls live at an elevation of
+13,800 feet above the level of the sea.
+
+[126] The volcano of Arequipa is 10,500 feet above its base, but 18,000
+above sea-level.
+
+[127] "Peru; Sketches of Travel, 1839-42, by J. J. v. Tschudi." St. Gall,
+1846: Vol. i. p. 335. Also, "Investigations on the Fauna of Peru." St.
+Gall, 1844-46. The author from personal observation speaks as follows of
+these singular sand-columns, whirling along before the wind. "Driving
+before a strong wind, the _medanos_ speedily overleap all barriers, the
+lighter and more easily-propelled preceding the heavier like an advanced
+guard. Sometimes they are hurled against each other, when, so soon as they
+meet, they are dashed violently together, and break up simultaneously.
+Frequently a flat _stretch_ of ground is covered within a few hours by a
+row of sand-hills, which within a day or two more resume their level
+monotonous appearance. The most experienced guides consequently become
+confused as to the way, and it is they who the soonest give way to despair
+as they wander blindly about among the sand-hills. The small
+mountain-spurs, by which the country is traversed from W. to E., afford
+some sort of clue, but these oases are few and far between in the sterile
+wilderness around."
+
+[128] The ordinary mode of writing the word "Guano" is erroneous, as
+already remarked by Tschudi, as the Quichua language, to which the word
+belongs, is deficient in the consonant G, among others. The Spaniards
+first converted into a G the strongly aspirated H of the original, while
+the last syllable "nu," which so frequently terminates the words adopted
+from the Quichua, was changed by them into "no."
+
+[129] Only the immense numbers of sea-fowl, their extraordinary voracity,
+and the bounteous provision for supplying them with food, can furnish any
+possible explanation of the enormous mass accumulated here, even allowing
+for such a lapse of time. Mr. Tschudi, in the course of his travels in
+Peru, once kept for several days a live _Sula variegata_, which he was
+continually feeding with fish. He carefully collected the excrement, when,
+notwithstanding these birds eat much less in captivity than in a state of
+nature, it voided in a day from 3 1/2 to 5 oz.! According to other
+investigations in natural history, it seems that the pelican eats 20 lbs.
+a day of fish.
+
+[130] Beds of guano have also been discovered lately by Captain Ord at the
+Kooria-Mooria Islands, on the south coast of Arabia, in 18° N. 56° E., 850
+miles E.N.E. of Aden. Here any ship can load this valuable cargo on paying
+a duty of £2 per ton to the English Government, which has recently
+established a colony at the bay and islands of that name, and has made it
+a coaling station. But the African guano is by no means so strong or so
+pungent a manure as that found on the rainless coasts of Peru, where
+certain peculiarities of climate combine to make it less liable to
+diminution of its saline virtues by dissolution or liquefaction.
+
+[131] The day on which Lima was founded by Pizarro was the 6th January,
+1534, which according to the Catholic calendar is that dedicated to the
+Three Kings of Cologne, whence, in conformity with the religious customs
+of the period, the city was named "Ciudad de los Reyes" (City of the
+Kings).
+
+[132] I feel it a pleasant duty to express here publicly how much I am
+indebted to the representatives of this celebrated firm in the different
+ports of South America, and to the head of the house in London, for the
+kind and generous manner in which this gentleman endeavoured to facilitate
+and advance the objects I had in view.
+
+[133] One of the most distinguished physicians of the capital, Dr.
+Archibald Smith, has collected some interesting particulars, with the
+dates, respecting the outbreak of these fearful maladies, which we intend
+to publish elsewhere.
+
+[134] This institution is also in charge of the Sisters of Charity. There
+were only some ten or twelve children in course of education, who,
+however, seemed to be in excellent health and well fed. When I expressed
+to the lady superintendent my astonishment that the establishment was not
+more extensively patronized, she replied, "_Los niños se crian en la
+Calle!_" (The children are here brought up in the streets.)
+
+[135] There are in Lima 46 private lying-in establishments. The mothers
+are extremely loth to separate from their children, and if great
+difficulty be experienced in getting wet-nurses, this is to be attributed
+far more to the love of the mothers for their children than to strict
+morality among the mass of the population.
+
+[136] A Peruvian author, Don J. A. Delavalle, gives in one of his works
+the following severe, yet faithful, portraiture of the state of letters in
+his native country:--"En un país en el que el cultivo de las letras ni
+constituye una profesion, ni crea una posicion social, ni procura lo
+necesario--no decimos para lucrar con ella--para conseguir el sustento
+para la vida, nos admiraremos de que haya quien escriba en Lima, y
+reputaremos como extraordinario el número de obras que han salido de sus
+prensas en 1860, por muy pequeño que este haya sido. Sin proteccion, pues,
+y sin estimulo, ni oficial, ni social, ¿ qué se podrá esperar de las
+letras Peruanas?" (_Translation of the foregoing._) "In a country where
+the cultivation of letters is not a profession by itself, where literature
+confers no social position, and barely procures the necessaries of
+life,--we do not speak of realizing competence and independence,--we
+marvel there should be any one in Lima who writes at all, and we consider
+little less than extraordinary the number of books which have issued from
+its press in 1860, insignificant as the sum total may be. Without
+protection, without influence, and without stimulus, official or social,
+who can suffer himself to hope for a better future for Peruvian
+literature?" (Compare Peru in 1860, in the National Annual Register, by
+Alfredo G. Leubel, Lima, 1861.)
+
+[137] Pachacamác, the invisible God, i. e. "he who created the earth out
+of nothing."
+
+[138] In Cañete, an Indian village of 9000 inhabitants, 60 English miles
+from Lurin, there are also numerous Peruvian architectural memorials, as
+also an antique temple of idols, which have never been carefully examined.
+On my return to Lima, I was shown the mummy of a very young child, which
+Don Juan Quiros, deputy from the province of Cañete, had brought to the
+capital with him from his own home. The little corpse, quite mummified,
+lay in a beautiful, neatly-plaited little basket, and was swathed in
+layers of fine variegated cloth. On both sides lay toys of various kinds,
+attesting not alone the tenderness of the mother for her dead offspring,
+but also that a high degree of artistic taste and finish had been
+attained.
+
+[139] According to the "Estadistica general de Lima" (1858) of M. Fuentes,
+Lima has a population of 94,195, all told; according to the "Anuario
+Nacional" of A. Leubel for 1861, only 85,116 souls, who inhabit a surface
+of 6523.597 square Varas (Spanish). The entire population of Peru can
+hardly exceed 1,900,000, but a reliable census has never yet been made.
+
+[140] Once during my stay in Lima I had an opportunity of conversing with
+Don Ramon. He had come up from his country-seat, or rather from the
+roulette-table of Chorillos, to the capital, and was courteous enough to
+accord me a reception at his house. After passing a couple of sentinels, I
+was ushered through a large bare room into a small ill-lighted apartment
+on the ground-floor, when I found myself suddenly face to face with the
+President of the Peruvian Republic. I was presented by a friend settled in
+Lima. The General is a mestizo with a strongly-marked brown Indian visage,
+projecting cheek-bones, and an arched nose, wiry grey hair kept close
+cropped, and energetic, but withal coarse features. He is so far entitled
+to gratitude, that during the few years he has swayed the destinies of the
+Republic, he has maintained internal tranquillity. But there still remains
+the saddening feeling, borne out by the actual state of matters, that a
+territory over which Spanish grandees and viceroys once held sway, is at
+present ruled by an Indian half-breed, who can scarcely read and write. In
+manners and general appearance, Don Ramon Castilla strongly reminded me of
+his dusky confrère, General Rafael Carrera, President of Guatemala, with
+whose despotic tendencies he may be said fully to sympathize.
+
+[141] Thus too it is the predominance of the pure Spanish type and the
+extent of foreign immigration, which render the future of Chile so
+hopeful.
+
+[142] Vide E. Pöppig, Travels in Chile, Peru, and down the Amazon, vol.
+ii. p. 248.--Von Tschudi, Sketches of Peruvian Travel, vol. ii. p.
+290.--Weddell, Travels in Northern Bolivia in 1853, p. 514.--Von Bibra,
+Narcotics and their Influence on Man.--History of the Expedition of M.
+Castelnau in the Central Territories of South America. Paris, 1850, vol.
+iii. p. 349.--Dr. Paul Montegazza, "Researches into the Hygienic and
+Medicinal Properties of Coca. Annali de Medicina, March, 1859."
+
+[143] This custom of the Aymara Indians, not less universal than
+extraordinary, of standing on their heads after long and fatiguing
+marches, seems to be the result of an instinct which teaches them how best
+to mitigate the severe pressure of the blood.
+
+[144] The mail goes four times a month from La Paz to Tacna, and usually
+weighs 25 lbs., which the courier carries on his back and delivers within
+some five or six days, without other nourishment than that already
+specified!
+
+[145] The Aymara Indian rarely uses animal food, as to do so he would
+require to kill one of his beloved Llamas. His chief food consists of
+roasted _Chuño_, a small bitter species of potato, which flourishes only
+on the barren, rugged plateau of the Andes inhabited by the Aymara, where
+neither the common potato nor the maize continue to grow; even barley,
+which the Spaniards introduced, ceases to thrive. Their only other food is
+a species of moss, which grows in the swamps, and is called by the natives
+"_Lanta_." Under such alimentary conditions, it is readily intelligible
+why the Aymara have a predilection for coca balls (_acullica_), which (as
+sailors and others do with us, with tobacco) they keep continually rolling
+about in their mouths, and which, as soon as the whole of the juice has
+been sucked out, is thrown away and replaced by a fresh "quid." The juice
+of the green leaves diluted with oceans of saliva is usually swallowed. An
+Indian chews on the average an ounce to an ounce and a half per diem, but
+on feast-days double that quantity.
+
+[146] Cocain is precipitated in colourless inodorous prismatic crystals.
+It is with difficulty soluble in water, but melts readily in alcohol, and
+with still more facility in ether. When dissolved in alcohol, the solution
+becomes a strong alkaline reagent, and has a peculiar slightly bitter
+taste. When brought in contact with the nerves of the tongue, it possesses
+the singular property of deadening sensation after a few seconds have
+elapsed, in the part to which it has been applied, which for a time
+becomes almost void of feeling. It fuses at a temperature of 208°.4 Fahr.,
+and in cooling resumes its former prismatic crystalline form. When heated
+beyond this temperature, it changes to a reddish hue, and volatilizes with
+a strong ammoniacal odour. Only a small portion seems to get liberated by
+the destructive process. When heated on a platinum disc, it burns away
+with a bright flame, leaving no residuum. Cocain completely neutralizes
+acids, although most of the resulting salts seem to crystallize with
+difficulty, and to remain for a considerable time in an amorphous state.
+The resultant chloride seemed the most readily formed as well as
+delicately shaped of the crystals. Cocain exposed in chlorine is followed
+by such a development of heat that the former is fused. (Compare "Cocain,
+an Organic Base in the Coca," letter of Professor F. Wöhler to W.
+Haidinger, acting Fellow of the Imperial Academy of Sciences, presented at
+the meeting of the Class of Mathematics and Physical Science, 8th March,
+1860. See also "On a New Organic Base in the Coca-leaves," Inaugural
+dissertation on attaining the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at Göttingen,
+by Albert Niemann of Goslar. Printed at the Göttingen Press, 1860.)
+
+[147] According to Wöhler, this fluid substance admits of being distilled
+even along with water; its odour strongly recalls Trimethylamin; it is a
+strong alkaline reagent, but is not bitter to the taste, and forms a white
+cloud when acids are poured upon it. Its chloride crystallizes readily,
+but is very volatile. With chloride of platina it forms a flocculent
+uncrystallized precipitate, which decomposes on the liquid being heated.
+With chloride of quicksilver, it assumes a dim milky appearance, which is
+caused by the formation of a substance resembling drops of oil. Hygrin is
+not poisonous; a few drops given to a rabbit were followed by no
+perceptible symptoms.
+
+[148] As, judging by the experiments hitherto made, cocain seems to
+consist of two atoms in juxta-position, there is reason to conjecture that
+it is destined to be the source of a large number of products of
+transformation. It is highly probable, as Wöhler has remarked, that cocain
+may yet be _artificially_ made by a mixture of hygrin with Benzoic acid,
+or rather with one of the substances forming part of the Benzoyle group.
+
+[149] See Von Tschudi _ut suprà_, vol. ii. 309.
+
+[150] I append here the most important points on which information is
+sought respecting the climatic and other conditions of the various
+Cinchona species as cultivated in South America, concerning which Dr.
+Junghuhn needed more correct information, and can but express the hope,
+that, should curiosity or destiny lead the steps of any one of my more
+earnest readers to Peru, he may succeed by his own observation in solving
+these questions, my inability to aid more effectively in which has been to
+me a source of deep mortification. The learned naturalist of Java
+furnished me with the following particulars:--
+
+"What it behoves us especially to ascertain, respecting which Hasskarl has
+observed nothing, and Weddell furnishes no accurate information, is
+comprised in the following questions:
+
+1. What are the highest and lowest limits of the _Cinchona Calisaya_, or
+at all events, what is the altitude of the region in which it most
+abounds?
+
+2. What is the unvarying warmth of the soil, as observed at a depth of 5
+feet below the surface?
+
+3. On what soil does it grow most abundantly and luxuriantly? Does it
+affect rich black mould, in moist forcing soils, or rather dry, stony,
+barren soils? Does it grow on steep acclivities, or does it seem to prefer
+gentle slopes or level ground? Can specimens of the soil be procured? What
+is the description of the rock formation, trachytic, granitic, or gneiss,
+or are slate or sandstone the characteristic formations?
+
+4. What are the general meteorological conditions, and what is the annual
+amount of rain-fall? For how many and during what months does it rain, and
+during what period of the day are the showers heaviest? Does it rain for
+months at a time, and for how many, and during what months? Or does it not
+rain at all, in which case is its place supplied by regular afternoon
+storms? How many days of rain are there in the rainy season of that
+particular region of the tropical zone? Are the nights and forenoons, as
+in Java, usually clear until noon? Is it known whether observations have
+ever been made by the Spanish Creoles as to the amount and duration of the
+rain-fall? A correct knowledge of the amount of moisture and rain-fall of
+the Calisaya district is of special importance to all engaged in the
+cultivation of that plant. Further, frequent observations must be made
+with the psychrometer in the morning before sunrise, between nine and ten
+o'clock, at the hour of maximum of temperature, and in the evening, in the
+forest and in the open ground, that these may afterwards be compared with
+mine in Java.
+
+5. Does the Calisaya prefer the deepest shadows of the forest, does it
+grow there quite apart from other trees, or is it more frequently found in
+the open spaces where it is warmed by the sun's rays, such places being
+usually rather clear of trees? Does it grow solitary, or is it found in
+groups or clusters, and are its special peculiarities in this respect
+observable in every forest? Is it observed to be more numerous towards the
+edge of the forest, and does it evince a tendency to extend thence over
+the grass, the drift, the plateaux, &c., and what alterations do these
+make in its habits?
+
+6. Information is wanted as to the month in which the Calisaya blossoms,
+and that in which the fruit ripens, as also what length of time usually
+elapses between the first appearance of the buds and the shedding of the
+_corolla_, and from the shedding of the _corolla_ to the bursting, i. e.
+the complete maturity of the capsules. It would seem that in Java it takes
+a much longer time, as also that it blossoms at an entirely different
+season from that in which it blossoms in its native regions.
+
+7. Much anxiety is felt as to whether it is possible to ascertain with
+accuracy how many years old, as also what are the usual height and the
+diameter (at the base of the trunk) of a Calisaya tree, when it first
+begins to blossom, and whether these first blossoms are developed into
+ripe fruit, with seeds capable of fertilization.
+
+8. How high, how thick, and how old are--
+
+_a._ The youngest and smallest, and
+
+_b._ The largest and oldest,
+
+Calisaya trees, which are now felled for their bark in South America? What
+description of bark is the most prized, that from the young and slender,
+or that from the larger and older trees? Also whether the bark of a very
+young tree, e. g. four years old, contain thus early the active principle,
+genuine?
+
+9. As, judging by appearances, it has been rightly assumed that the bark
+of any given description of Cinchona is found to be more abundantly
+provided with alkaloid, especially quinine, the greater the elevation
+above the sea, and becomes impoverished in these respects in proportion as
+a lower level and a warmer climate are reached, it is desirable that
+special observations should be made for the elucidation of these
+particulars.
+
+10. It is desirable information should be got from the China bark
+collectors (Cascarilleros) of Peru, as to the natural foes of the Cinchona
+plant, especially C. Calisaya, and it appears likewise important to
+ascertain whether the Calisaya is there also liable to be injured and
+bored into by mites and other noxious insects.
+
+11. It is highly desirable that all the above recommended observations
+made respecting Cinchona Calisaya, may also be applied to _all other_
+species of Cinchona that may occur in South America, of which those
+ranking next in interest and importance to us in Java, and which have been
+planted here, are C. _Condaminea, var. lucumæfolia_, _laurifolia_,
+_lanceolata_, as also C. _cordifolia_, C. _ovata_, and _var.
+erythroderma_.
+
+12. Is the pure red China bark actually obtained from the C. _ovata, var.
+erythroderma_ of Weddell, as would appear from an article by Howard in
+"the Pharmaceutical Journal for October, 1856?" The leaves of that variety
+have the most resemblance to those of the three young trees brought over,
+which we now possess in Java, and which I have spoken of as _Cinchona
+cordifolia_.
+
+13. The experiments in acclimatization of the above-named species in Java,
+especially in Western Java, which, it must be admitted, has a very much
+more moist, rainy climate than Peru, and still more so than Southern
+Bolivia, where the Calisaya chiefly grows, have already undergone several
+phases, and it has successfully struggled with numerous obstacles, some
+natural, others the result of failures of the earliest cultivators. The
+species named C. _Condaminea, var. lucumæfolia_, has shown itself more
+susceptible of being acclimatized than the C. _Calisaya_, and at present
+(May, 1858) promises to produce from 50,000 to 70,000 ripe fruit, within a
+few weeks, all fit for reproduction. Apparently the climate and other
+physical conditions of the locality in Java, where the cultivation has
+been carried on, have corresponded with those natural conditions which
+enable this plant to grow so abundantly in its native soil of Peru."
+
+[151] The name dates from the time when what is now Bolivia (in the forest
+of which the China tree chiefly grows) formed an integral portion of Peru,
+and was in fact called Upper Peru, whereas from that which is now called
+Peru, hardly any bark is exported, while that found in New Granada and
+Ecuador, whence it is exported to Spain under the name of Pitaya, is a
+species of very inferior quality for medicinal purposes.
+
+[152] The name, Countess' powder, which was given to the drug owing to its
+use by a certain Countess Chinchon (wife of a Peruvian viceroy), was
+afterwards altered to Cardinal's or Jesuit's powder, in consequence of the
+Procurator-general of the order of Jesus, Cardinal de Lugo, having, during
+his passage through France, everywhere made known the virtues of the drug,
+and recommended it to the particular attention of Cardinal Mazarin, as the
+brethren of the order had begun to drive quite a lucrative trade in South
+American China bark, which they had carried on by their missionaries. V.
+Humboldt's "_Ansichten der Natur_," third edition, 1849, vol. ii. p. 372.
+
+[153] See Humboldt's Ansichten der Natur. Third edition. 1849. Vol. ii. p.
+319.
+
+[154] Señor Emilio Escobar of Lima sent me a small flask of a hitherto
+little-known vegetable stuff, which gives very much the same dye as the
+cochineal insect, and is found in great abundance throughout Peru. I have
+added this bottle of dye, which at all events merits more minute
+investigation, to the other collections of the _Novara_ Expedition.
+
+[155] In 1859, there were forwarded, according to official documents:
+
+                                           From        From
+                                      Aspinwall   Panama to
+                                     to Panama.  Aspinwall.     Totals.
+
+  Passengers                             23,206      16,567      39,773
+
+  Bullion                             3,146,983  57,097,061  60,244,044
+
+  Mail parcels of the U.S.      pounds  643,752     184,395     828,147
+
+   "       "        England       "      47,060       8,824      55,884
+
+  Merchandise                   tons     17,278       3,802      21,080
+
+  Coal.                           "       7,618      ------       7,618
+
+  Personal baggage              pounds   67,698      62,581     130,279
+
+[156] The cost of keeping in repair is not less than £100,000 per annum,
+owing to the destroying energies of the atmosphere and of insects, as also
+of the rapid growth of vegetation, to keep which under employs not less
+than 3000 labourers.
+
+[157] The statistics of mortality among the various races on the Isthmus
+for the year 1858 give the following results.
+
+  Of the natives, there die annually      1 in 50
+  "      immigrant negroes                1 in 40
+  "      Coolies                          1 in 40
+  "      Europeans                        1 in 30
+  "      Chinese                          1 in 10
+
+
+                  [Illustration: The Austrian Eagle]
+
+
+
+
+                                XXIII.
+
+                      From Gibraltar to Trieste.
+
+                    From 7th to 26th August, 1859.
+
+    First circumstantial details of the War of 1859.--Alterations in
+    Gibraltar since our previous visit.--Science and Warfare.--
+    Voyage through the Mediterranean.--Messina.--The _Novara_ taken
+    in tow by the War-steamer _Lucia_.--Gravosa.--Ragusa.--Arrival
+    of H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian at Gravosa.--
+    Presentation of the Staff.--Banquet on board the screw-corvette
+    _Dandolo_.--Pola.--Roman Amphitheatre.--Porta Aurea.--Triumphal
+    return to Trieste.--Retrospect of the achievements and general
+    scientific results of the Expedition.--Concluding Remarks.
+
+
+Eighty-two days elapsed between the departure of the _Novara_ from
+Valparaiso and her arrival in the harbour of Gibraltar. They had been as
+many days of dreadful trial and disaster for our country! While the good
+ship was careering along in mid ocean, and in an unusually short space of
+time had sailed over 10,600 nautical miles, the fortune of arms had gone
+against our House, and we now heard for the first time of the desperate
+battles, the heavy losses, the sudden armistice of Villafranca! The
+Commodore at once telegraphed to Trieste the news of our arrival, and
+asked for further instructions.
+
+Among our friends and acquaintances at Gibraltar many changes and
+alterations had taken place. The former Governor, Sir James Ferguson, had
+in the interim been replaced by Sir W. Codrington. The Austrian Consul,
+the estimable Mr. Longlands Cowell, was dead, and in his stead Mr. Frembly
+attended provisionally to the duties of the office.
+
+The heads of the community, the Governor, the staff, Mr. Creswell,
+Postmaster-General, Mr. Frembly, &c., paid us marked attention on our
+present visit. Singular to say, no one here seemed to be aware of our
+having been declared neutral by most of the European powers, thanks to the
+far-sighted circumspection of the projector of the voyage, and
+consequently some apprehension had been felt lest some warships of the
+enemy might have encountered the _Novara_ in American waters. But albeit
+of late years we have been pretty well accustomed to see even written
+treaties trodden underfoot, yet, in the present instance, the capture of
+the _Novara_ had been stringently prohibited to all French cruisers. For
+even in the Tuileries the consequences of such an abuse of power had been
+well foreseen; it was felt moreover even there, that in our time the most
+powerful can no longer dispense with science or disregard its interests,
+that any violence offered to her votaries is an outrage upon mankind and
+civilization. So great, indeed, was the anxiety felt at Paris to avoid any
+possible collision with the _Novara_, that in addition to the existing
+declaration of neutrality, special orders were dispatched by the French
+Government, and from amid the din of battle and the thunder of artillery,
+the word went forth: "The _Novara_ may proceed unmolested, for she is
+freighted with scientific treasures, and science is the common benefit of
+all nations!"
+
+On 7th of August, a telegraphic dispatch was received in the course of the
+morning from the Lord High Admiral, with instructions for the _Novara_ to
+proceed under sail to Messina, where a war-steamer would be in waiting to
+take us in tow. The same afternoon we weighed anchor on our way up the
+Mediterranean.
+
+On 15th August we sighted the northern shores of Sicily, and the same
+evening could plainly perceive the brilliant red lights of the newly
+erected lighthouse on Cape San Vito, the extreme N.W. point of the island.
+Diversified by frequent calms, and but occasionally favoured with gentle
+breezes, our progress was necessarily very slow. On the 16th we passed the
+island of Ustica, and the following day the Lipari Islands, and at last,
+about 7 A.M. of the 18th, we reached the Straits of Messina. A pilot who
+came on board informed us that an Austrian war-steamer was lying off
+Messina. Orders were now given to fire a few blank shot, to advise her
+commander of our arrival in the Straits, after which we resumed our
+course. A few hours more and we were in tow of the steamer, which proved
+to be the _Lucia_, the same vessel which upwards of two years before had
+brought us as far as Messina on our outward voyage. We now received
+letters from friends and relatives at home, as also the customary and
+inevitable poetical effusion, which some sailor poet had written on "The
+Return of the _Novara_."
+
+On the night of the 19th August we were off Cape Santa Maria di Leuca,
+which marks the entrance of the Adriatic Gulf, and in the afternoon of the
+following day passed Caste Nuovo near Cattaro, and the same night anchored
+in the harbour of Gravosa in Dalmatia. The captain of the _Lucia_ had been
+dispatched to bring us hither, there to wait further orders.
+
+The following morning, Sunday, 21st August, the naturalists and superior
+officers made an excursion to the highly interesting city of Ragusa, only
+a few miles distant, which communicates with Gravosa by a beautiful wide
+well-kept road. For the first time in 28 months our feet once more trod
+our native soil.
+
+Next morning, about nine, the imperial steam yacht _Fantasie_ came into
+port, with H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian on board, accompanied
+by the Archduchess. The Lord High Admiral stood on the paddle-box, and
+saluted us most heartily, repeatedly waving his cap, to which the crew of
+the _Novara_ replied by a shout that made the welkin ring. The
+screw-corvette _Dandolo_ shortly after anchored near us.
+
+About noon the Archduke came on board, and inspected the crew and ship,
+after which he expressed himself in the most kind terms to the officers of
+the ship and the scientific corps of the expedition. The Archduchess
+afterwards had a levee, at which the officers and naturalists had the
+honour of being presented to her Highness, who addressed to each a few
+gracious words of welcome and interest.
+
+In the evening there was an elegant banquet of forty covers, at which the
+Archduke presided, his consort also sharing in the festivities, during
+which his Highness distinguished the members of the Expedition in
+proposing the toast, "The men of the _Novara_, whose names will belong to
+Austrian history."
+
+On 23rd August our frigate, accompanied by the _Lucia_ and the
+screw-corvette _Dandolo_, sailed for Pola. Shortly before our departure
+the Archduke again came on board, and himself brought with him a long list
+of promotions. The entire crew were promoted one grade, and all the
+midshipmen were made officers.
+
+On the 25th August we passed, during the morning, the light-tower of
+Promontore, standing on a solitary rock that rises out of the sea, hardly
+a cable's length from the shore, and at 11 reached Pola, the chief naval
+arsenal of Austria. Here we availed ourselves of the stoppage to visit
+some of the classical monuments of Pola.
+
+Few cities can present better-preserved or more extensive mementoes of
+Roman architecture than this, the ancient _Pietas Julia_, so named because
+shortly after its destruction by Julius Cæsar, it was rebuilt at the
+instance of Julia, the daughter of Augustus. The majestic amphitheatre, of
+elliptical form, rises on the slope of the hills, so that to remedy the
+inequality of the ground the portion next the sea is held up by a
+succession of buttresses. The dazzling white of the stone does not present
+any traces by which one would guess its age. This relic of antiquity is in
+far better preservation than the Colosseum of Rome, or the Amphitheatre of
+Verona, and would have been far more perfect had it not been used as a
+stone-quarry during the days of Venetian supremacy, when entire ship-loads
+of this brilliant white stone were transported to Venice, there to be used
+as building material.
+
+Near the amphitheatre, on the side next the city, the stranger is struck
+by another beautiful edifice, the _Porta Aurea_ (golden gate), a
+monumental structure in the Corinthian style, which, according to one of
+the inscriptions, was erected by his widow, Salvia, at her own expense, in
+honour of Lucius Sergius Lepidus, tribune. For harmony of proportion,
+richness and elegance of decoration, and perfect preservation, it may be
+cited as one of the best existing specimens of Roman architecture. A
+temple to Augustus and another to Diana also attract the astonished gaze
+of the artist and antiquary, while many another object of classical
+interest lies prostrate on the earth for want of means, or perhaps, more
+probably, through indifference. It is highly probable that, with the
+rapid development of the town, some interest will also be taken in
+preserving its antiquities.
+
+The importance of this spacious, easily accessible, secure, and
+well-fortified harbour, induced the Austrian Government during the last
+few years to commence public works on a large scale, which was
+munificently projected and fully carried out, and have resulted in opening
+for Pola a prospect of future importance second to none on the Adriatic,
+making it the Portsmouth of the Austrian Empire.
+
+In the evening we again set sail, and about 11 A.M. of the 26th escorted
+by a squadron of above a dozen ships of war, in two columns, the one led
+by H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, the other by our Commodore,
+we neared the imposing roadstead of Trieste. As the _Novara_ passed
+beneath the walls of the splendid château of Miramar, the residence of the
+Archduke, a guard of artillery saluted the home-returning wanderer, and
+almost immediately afterwards the cannon of the citadel of Trieste
+thundered forth their salute.
+
+A Lloyd's steamer, having on board the principal officials of the city, as
+also a few friends, was now seen wending its way towards us with a band of
+music on board, and fell into the procession. The latter made its way,
+enveloped in clouds of smoke, to the picturesquely-situated city, as far
+as the Bay of Muggia, where each ship let go her anchor in her appointed
+position, and--THE VOYAGE WAS OVER.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On the transcriber of the foregoing literary detail of the incidents of
+the voyage of the _Novara_ still devolves the task of presenting a brief
+summary of the chief objects aimed at, and the actual scientific results
+attained by the Imperial Expedition, so as to moderate the exaggerated
+expectations of one set of readers, and to rectify the hasty, depreciatory
+judgment of others, by stating obvious and convincing facts.
+
+He feels, above all, compelled to examine the question, which not alone
+criticism but the entire educated world will address with reference to an
+undertaking begun under such auspices and of such universal interest,
+"What are the actual results, and what those to be anticipated from the
+_Novara_ Expedition? How did its members respond to the efforts made to
+provide them with every possible appliance that munificence could supply?"
+
+In order aright to answer this query, whether the first Austrian
+Expedition round the globe has really answered the expectations formed of
+it, it is necessary to bear in mind that its first and foremost object was
+the instruction on an adequate scale of the officers and midshipmen of the
+Imperial navy, and that scientific investigation was always regarded as of
+secondary importance to that chief object.
+
+The descriptive portion of the voyage of the _Novara_ must be considered
+simply as the precursor of a series of scientific publications which,
+thanks to Imperial munificence, will be published at the expense
+of the State. The nautico-physical portion will include the
+astronomico-geodetical, magnetic, and meteorological observations made
+throughout the voyage, and will appear under the auspices of the
+Imperial hydrographic Institution at Trieste.
+
+The abundant materials collected in the departments of natural history,
+statistics, and commercial policy, will be prepared by the various
+gentlemen who accompanied the Expedition, and comprise as many sections as
+there were scientific branches represented on board ship during the
+voyage. These publications will embrace, in a collected form, the
+observations, investigations, and results obtained in the course of the
+entire campaign, relating to Geology, Zoology, Botany, Ethnography and
+Anthropology, Medicine, Statistics, and Trade.
+
+And while these various works can only after their publication admit of a
+just opinion being formed as to what has been achieved in this respect by
+the Expedition, the numerous and valuable collections of objects of
+natural history already give an idea of the activity and research of each
+member of the scientific staff in the course of the voyage.
+
+The zoological collection comprises above 26,000 specimens, partly
+collected by the two zoologists themselves, partly presented or purchased;
+they consist of 320 mammalia, 1500 birds, 950 amphibiæ, 2000 fish, 6550
+conchyliæ, 13,000 insects, 950 crustacea, 500 molluscs, 60 skeletons, 50
+skulls, 120 nests, and 150 eggs.
+
+The botanical portion embraces several very comprehensive and valuable
+_herbaria_ and collections of seeds (in selecting the latter the
+capabilities of the various portions of the Empire were carefully borne
+in mind, with reference to the power of propagating the plant), besides a
+large quantity of fruits and flowers of tropical plants, preserved in
+acetic acid or alcohol, as also Indian and Chinese drugs, and specimens of
+ornamental and useful woods.
+
+The mineralogical, petrographical, and palæontological collections consist
+of several thousand specimens of mineralogy and petrifactions, part
+collected by the geologist himself, part presented by scientific
+Institutes, or private donors, or purchased.
+
+The ethnographic collection embraces 376 objects, such as weapons of the
+most diverse form, house utensils and implements of labour, ornaments,
+amulets, carvings, idols, headgears, masks, pieces of clothing, models,
+textile fabrics, manufactures in bark, musical instruments, Cingalese
+manuscripts, as also fragments of palm-leaves, bamboo-reeds, and bark, all
+variously transcribed. Some of these various objects are the more
+interesting, as furnishing, so to speak, the last proofs of the aboriginal
+skill which, in proportion to the increasing intercourse of the savage
+tribes with European civilization, is rapidly diminishing, and in all the
+principal colonies may be considered as already extinguished.
+
+The anthropological collection consists of 100 skulls of various races of
+men, and includes a complete Bushman-skeleton, besides a great variety of
+interesting physiological and pathologico-anatomical preparations.
+
+But it is not merely in its general, nautical, scientific, and
+politico-economical features that the voyage of the _Novara_ has reacted
+in a suggestive and instructing manner upon those who were privileged to
+belong to the Expedition. It has widened the horizon of political
+knowledge, presented the opportunity of instituting interesting
+comparisons between the conditions of the various countries visited, and
+has furnished many an instructive insight into the transmuting process,
+which the possession of civil and religious liberty effects upon the
+material welfare and intellectual energy of every race and land, from pole
+to pole. And although mankind is subjected to the powerful influences of
+climate, nourishment, soil, and natural phenomena in general, yet it is
+not less certain that by freely developing the physical and intellectual
+powers, those influences may be materially limited in extent of operation,
+and modified in practice; so that, while we see a people inhabiting a
+country, where Nature has lavished her utmost treasures of fertility,
+beauty, and loveliness, languishing spiritually and physically under the
+oppression of a despotic power, and the land itself hastening to
+impoverishment and decay, we perceive on the other hand that another, far
+less favourably situated, has been able under free institutions to become
+by its own unaided energy the marvel of all nations, colonizing every
+region of the earth, and extending its commercial and political importance
+over the entire universe.
+
+What a melancholy picture of stagnation and decay is presented by the
+Spanish and Portuguese possessions in Asia, Africa, and the West Indies,
+by the Slave-empire of Brazil, and the Hispano-American Republics, with
+their mestizo dictators, as compared with the mighty development and
+glorious promise of the British colonies in Asia, Africa, America, and
+Australia, governed as they are by constitutional laws, and enjoying full
+civil and religious rights! Here the energy of free self-governing men,
+aided by a keen spirit of enterprise and investigation, has obtained a
+victory over all impediments of a primeval nature, and not alone opened to
+European civilization new channels for the extension of commerce and
+industry, but also accomplished important social and political reforms,
+for which many a civilized state in old Europe is still sighing in vain!
+
+And to the German who has circumnavigated the globe, the consideration of
+these lofty themes is mingled with a glow of pride and satisfaction, in
+reflecting that it is a kindred Anglo-Saxon race, to whom apparently has
+been assigned the glorious mission of diffusing a new life over the earth,
+of carrying the light of Christian civilization, of political liberty, and
+spiritual culture, to the most primitive tribes in the furthest regions of
+the world, and of heralding, amid the ruins of slavery and despotism, the
+day-spring of a lasting era of Freedom, Peace, and Prosperity!
+
+
+                               THE END.
+
+
+
+
+                                      VOL. II.
+
+                                    APPENDIX A.
+
+                                   A VOCABULARY
+
+                         (ARRANGED UPON GALATIN'S SYSTEM)
+
+          OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE NATIVES OF THE NICOBAR ARCHIPELAGO.[158]
+
+
+  Name of object in   | Dialect used in      | Dialect used in       | Corresponding words
+  English.            | Kar Nicobar          | the Central Group,    | used by the Malay
+                      | (called PUH by       | consisting of the     | inhabitants of Pulo
+                      | the natives).        | islands of Nangkauri, | Penáng, 5° 25' N.,
+                      | The most northerly   | Kamorta, Pulo Milú,   | 100° 21' E.
+                      | island, 9° 10' N.,   | Kondúl, and Lesser    |
+                      | 93° 36' E.           | Nicobar.              |
+                      |                      |                       |
+                      |                      |                       |
+  God                 | ----                 | ----                  | ----
+  evil spirit         | ----                 | eewée                 | hontú
+  man                 | kigonje              | báhju                 | orang
+  people              | tarík                | ----                  | ----
+  woman               | kigána               | angána                | poorampúan
+  old woman           | ----                 | angána-oomiáha        | ----
+  boy                 | lúenda               | kanióom               | booda-kitschí
+  lad                 | marengla             | ilúh                  | ----
+  young girl          | nia-kookána          | kanioóm-angána        | booda-poorampúan
+  child               | niá                  | poa                   | ana-kitschí
+  father              | jong                 | tschía                | bápa
+  my father           | jong-tióo            | ----                  | ----
+  mother              | kamioján             | tschía-angána         | ma, mák
+  old man             | jong-niá             | angónje               | chaudáu
+  old woman, feeble   | ----                 | koomhóois             | chaudán-poorampooan
+    woman             |                      |                       |
+  son                 | kóoan                | góan or ilúh          | ana-chaudán
+  daughter            | kóoan                | kanióom-angana        | ana-pooram-pooan
+  brother             | kanána               | tscháo-angana         | kaka
+  head                | kóoi                 | góeh                  | kapalá
+  hair                | kooiá                | jogh                  | ramut
+  face                | gúa                  | matscháka             | mooká
+  forehead            | mal                  | lal                   | dái
+  ear                 | nang                 | neng                  | talénga
+  earrings worn by    |                      |                       |
+    natives           | nang                 | itiéi                 | --
+  eye                 | mat                  | oal-mát               | mattá
+  eyebrows            | --                   | ok-mát                | --
+  nose                | elmé                 | moáh                  | idóng
+  nostrils            | --                   | ol-moáh               | lo-bang-idong
+  chin                | --                   | enkóin                | dagóo
+  cheek               | --                   | tapóah                | pípi
+  breast              | --                   | alendája              | dáda
+  throat, larynx      | --                   | ungnóka               | kronkóugan
+  calf of the leg     | --                   | kanmoána              | jantong-bóotis
+  mouth               | minú                 | manóing               | mulót
+  tongue              | litág                | kaletág               | lidá
+  tooth               | kanáp                | kanáp                 | jijée
+  beard               | máin-kóoa            | inhóing               | boolo-báo
+  neck                | likún                | unlóngha              | tinkó
+  arm                 | kel                  | koál                  | langán
+  hand                | koontée              | oktái                 | tangán
+  palm of the hand    | --                   | oal-tái               | --
+  finger              | heng                 | kani-tái              | charée
+  nail                | kiusó                | kaischúa              | kookóo
+  body or trunk       | aláha                | okáha                 | badán
+  belly               | áik                  | wuiáng                | baróot
+  navel               | --                   | fon                   | boosát
+  thigh               | kaldrán              | booló                 | pahá
+  foot                | eldrán               | lah                   | tapa-kakí
+  toes                | kundrán              | kanéch-lah _or_       | daloognoo-kakí
+                      |                      |   ok lah              |
+  bone                | tangáe               | ung-éjing             | tooláng
+  skin                | --                   | ihé                   | kooléet
+  knee                | --                   | kohanoáng             | lutót
+  heart               | faniéoola            | kióyen                | hangát
+  blood               | mahám                | wooáh                 | dará
+  village             | panám                | mattái                | kampong
+  chief               | máh                  | oomiáh-mattái         | capitan, capitan-kampong
+  warrior             | hol                  |  --                   | toomóh
+  friend              | moowée               | jól                   | bái, bánia-bái
+  friendship          | hóldra               |  --                   | --
+  house, hut          | patée                | njee                  | roomá
+  kettle              | tzitóom              | poonhágua             | balanga, panél
+  arrow               | alindreng            | bel                   | ana-paná
+  bow                 | lindreng             | donna                 | paná
+  axe, hatchet        | hanyeng              | enlóin                | kapá
+  flint               | --                   | hindél                | sanapáng
+  cannon              | --                   | hin-wáu               | mariám
+   shot               | --                   | hadéel                | pasang-bóodeel
+  knife               | sooréeta             | kahánáp               | pisóh
+  canoe, or boat      | ap                   | dëuá                  | sampán
+  rudder              |  --                  | duende-dol-deüá       | --
+  shoe                | kundróka             | zapatos               | kasút, supátu
+                      |                      | (corruption of        |
+                      |                      | Portuguese)           |
+  bread               | pekó                 | puáng                 | roti
+                      |                      | (Portuguese, pan)     |
+  pipe, whistle       | rípa                 | tanóp                 | hundchúe
+  to smoke            | --                   | top-oomhói            | asap
+  tobacco             | tobacco              | oomhói                | tumbáko
+  bamboo tobacco-box  | ooráng               | --                    | --
+  heaven              | halyáng              | oal, galahája         | langéet
+  sun                 | tawúo                | heng                  | mataharée
+  moon                | chingát              | kahaé                 | boolán
+  full-moon           | sohó                 | --                    | --
+  star                | tanoosamát           | shokmaléicha          | bintang
+  day                 | tahei                | heng                  | tsará
+  night               | átam                 | hatám                 | malám
+  darkness            | sangóola             | doochóol              | bania-galáp
+  morning             | haaréi               | hagée                 | pagée
+  day after to-morrow | --                   | chayesláng            | hiso-pagée-pagée
+  evening             | haráp                | ladiáyá               | patang
+  summer              | talák                | koi-kapa              | poolan-nám
+  (i. e. the dry or   |                      | (N.E. monsoon)        |
+    fine season)      |                      |                       |
+  winter              | koomra               | sohóng                | barát
+  (i. e. the rainy    |                      | (S.W. monsoon)        |
+    season)           |                      |                       |
+  wind                | koofótt              | hash                  | angéen
+  lightning           | nieïnáka             | máit                  | kilát
+  thunder             | koonróka             | komtoogna             | gooróh
+  rain                | koomra               | amà                   | oosán
+  clouds              | talóol               | galaháya              | awán
+  east                | --                   | hash-fooly            | téemor
+  west                | --                   | hash-soháng           | barát
+  south               | --                   | hash-láhhna           | slatán
+  north               | --                   | hash-kapá             | ootára
+  fire                | tamóia               | hióye                 | ápee
+  to kindle a fire    |                      |                       |
+    with bamboo       | kiséit               | --                    | --
+  water               | neak                 | dák                   | ajaír
+  salt-water          |  --                  | kamaléh               | aja-masséen
+  sand                | toomlát              | péeèt                 | pasói
+  earth, land         | panámm               | oal-mattái            | kampong
+  sea                 | máee                 | oal-kamaléh           | aja-masséen
+  flood-tide          |  --                  | hayjáoo               | ajáir-báh
+  ebb                 |  --                  | tchóh                 | sooróot
+  river               | tit-mak              | hiajarák              | soongwáy
+  valley              |  --                  | alhodá                | lémba
+  hill                | yógle                | kohinjúan             | boojétt (boo-kéett)
+  mountain, forest    | koochiónn            |  --                   | boojétt-bassa
+  island              | panám, poolgna       | poolgna, mattái       | póolo
+  stone, rock         | chóng                | mangáh                | batóo
+  brass               | mas                  | kalaháee              | tamagá
+  iron                | wert                 | kadáo                 | bacee, (bucee)
+  tree                | kaha-chiónn          | koy-unjéeha           | atas-kayóo
+  wood                | chiónn               | oomnóeet              | kayóo
+  leaf                | droée-chiónn         | da-unjéeha            | daáeen-kayóo
+  bark                | ook-chiónn           | ok-unjéeha            | coolie-kayór
+  grass               | káee-op              | oobjóoab              | roombót
+  human flesh         | aláha                |  --                   |  --
+  flesh               | kirinée              | okaóoha               | koolétt
+  pork                | naoon                |  --                   |  --
+  parrot              | sakáha               | katók                 | buron-baján nóri, kastóoree
+  maina (bird         | kachaláo             | sichóoa               | buron-tiónn
+    known as          |                      |                       |
+    _Graculus         |                      |                       |
+    Indicus_)         |                      |                       |
+  cocoa-palm          | kahataóoka           | oocejáoo              | niónn
+  green cocoa-nut     | taóoka               | njáoo                 | nionn-mooda
+  ripe cocoa-nut      | toowooáyka           | gnoátt                | massá
+  banana              | tanióonga            | hibóo                 | pisang
+  sugar-cane          | lamóoa               | --                    | tóoboo
+  yam                 | toltatchióng         | --                    | koontang oobee-bóonggala
+  anana               | --                   | choodóo               | avanas
+  _Carica-papaya_     |   popáy              |   popáy               |   papáya
+  pandanus            | --                   | laróhm                | --
+  palm-wine           | --                   | doágh                 | tóoak
+  (toddy)             |                      |                       |
+  pig                 | --                   | not                   | babi
+  ape                 | ointchí              | dooáeen-káeen         | grah
+  dog                 | ahm                  | ahm                   | autchíng
+  cock                | hayám                | kamóoe-koep           | ajam-tchantán
+  hen                 | kooan-hayám          | {kon-kamóoe  }        | ajam-bootéena
+                      |                      | {tschi-kamóoe}        |
+  rat                 | komét                | --                    | tíkus
+  cat                 | koomeáo              | --                    | kootchíng
+  serpent, snake      | petsch               | paéetya, toolán       | ooláh
+  bird                | tschi-aítchou        | sitchúa               | boorón
+  egg (generally)     | óoha                 | hóoeeja               | toolo
+  hen's egg           | --                   | hóoeeja-kamóoe        | tulo-ajám
+  dove                | makóoka              | moomóoh               | pregám-moorpáti
+  fish                | kah                  | gah                   | ikán
+  paper               | --                   | láeeberi              | kóortas
+  lead-pencil         | --                   | anet-láeeberi         | halam-téemah
+  key                 | --                   | tenooán               | anak-kúntchi
+  chain               | --                   | maláo                 | rantik
+  white               | tesó                 | tenjéea               | pootáy
+  black               | turíng               | óeel                  | itám
+  black coat          | --                   | loaim-óeel            | --
+  red                 | sakalátt             | ak                    | máyra
+  blue                | turing               | tchoongóa             | kalabóo
+  dark-blue           | turing               | --                    | --
+  light-blue          | tatóoka              | --                    | --
+  yellow              | tangáo               | láaom                 | kooncéng
+  green               | faiáll               | tchoongóa             | itchó
+  large               | maróla               | kadóo                 | loás
+  small               | keejilóng            | oompáeetche           | kitchée
+  strong              | takale-aláh          | koáng                 | prat
+  old                 | mah                  | boomóoashe oomiáha    | tóoa
+  young               | neeáy                | eelóoh                | moodá
+  good                | taláck               | lapów                 | bagóoce
+  bad                 | atláck               | hadlapa               | tabáee
+  pretty              | talácka-kóoa         | lapóa                 | báee
+  very beautiful      | --                   | ilote-lapóa           | bánia-báee
+  ugly                | atlácka-koóa         | jóoh                  | hang
+  living              | atkáppa              | ahn                   | deeáa
+  dead                | kóopa                | kapá                  | matti
+  cold                | leejéet              | kaáy                  | sitchóo
+  warm                | wooang, or wáyee-low | keeojan               | hang-át
+  I                   | teeóoa               | teeóoa                | sajá
+  thou                | mough                | mooáyh                | aug
+  he                  | kna                  | ahn                   | deeá
+  we                  | --                   | teeóe                 | kéeta, kámi
+  ye or you           | --                   | eefóe                 | augkáoo
+  they                | --                   | efoe-bajóo-oomtohm    | dia-orang, or marikaéetoo
+  this                | eenáy                | neeáe or néena        | seenee, eenee
+  that                | oomóo                | anáay                 | seetóo
+  all                 | rókayra              | oomtóhm               | samooáa
+  much                | marónga              | ootóhatche            | baniá, baniák
+  who?                | akéea?               | tchée?                | sapaée? (seeáppa)
+  who is he?          | --                   | tchick-ahn?           | --
+  near                | raáyta               | meáyhoa               | dakátt
+  distant             | --                   | hóee                  | tchaó
+  very far            | --                   | hóee-kah              | --
+  to-day              | taháee               | lenheng               | arynée, harée
+  yesterday           | waháy                | mandiój               | koomaréen, klamaréen
+  to-morrow           | hooráyeek            | hakáyee               | heéso (bisok)
+  yes                 | hoán                 | aón                   | ijá
+  no                  | draháwa              | ooát                  | tidá
+  one                 | hang                 | hayáng                | satóo
+  two                 | anátt                | ah                    | dooá
+  three               | lóoay                | lóeh                  | téega
+  four                | fön                  | fooán                 | oompátt
+  five                | tanáyee              | tanáyee               | léema
+  six                 | tafóol               | tafoóel               | njam
+  seven               | sat                  | ishiátt               | tootchó
+  eight               | háware               | oenfoán               | lapánn
+  nine                | matióotare           | hayáng-hata           | sambilán
+  ten                 | som                  | som                   | sibooló
+  eleven              | kaook-séeen          | som-háyang            | sebeláss
+  twelve              | áh-sien              | som-áh                | dooabeláss
+  thirteen            | looay-sien           | som-loáy              | teejabeláss
+  twenty              | kaóok-matiáma        | heng-oomtchóma        | dua-poolów
+  twenty-one          | kaóok-matiáma-heng   | heng-oomtchóma-heang  | dua-poolów-satóo
+  twenty-two          | kaook-matiama-anátt  | heng-oomtchóma-ah     | dua-poolów-duá
+  thirty              | looay-kanyoo         | heng-oomtchóma-toktay | tiga-poolów
+  forty               | fön-kanyóo           | ahm-oomtchóma         | ampátt-poolów
+  fifty               | tanáyee-kanyóo       | ahm-oomtchóma-toktay  | léema-poolów
+  sixty               | tafoól-kanyoo        | looáy-oomtchóma       | njam-poolów
+  hundred             | heng-ohn             | som-oomtchóma         | saratooce
+  thousand            | som-ohn              | --                    | sirrybóo
+  to eat              | niá                  | náok                  | makán
+  one who eats        | --                   | oog-naók              | --
+  to drink            | kön                  | táoop                 | minoong
+  one who drinks      | --                   | oog-taoop             | --
+  to run              | kayánn               | deeánn                | larée
+  to dance            | küliám               | katáoga               | máaen, murari
+  to go               | keerángary           | tchoo                 | bigée
+  to grow slowly      | att-kayán            | --                    | --
+  to sing             | tingócka             | aekásha               | magnánee
+  to sleep            | loom                 | eetáyak               | teedów
+  to speak            | róa                  | olliówla              | sakápp
+  to see              | mooak                | hadáh, oog-hadáh      | tengo
+  to love             | hanganlón            | soojónghién           | bánia-kesseéen
+  to kill             | sap                  | oorrée                | bóton, boonóh
+  to cut one's self   | --                   | ottáh                 | --
+  to sit              | ratt                 | katö                  | doodó
+  to sit down         | --                   | bóoja                 | --
+  to stand            | talánn               | ockshéeaga            | badyrée
+  to come             | jéehee               | kaáytery              | marée
+  to yawn             | --                   | hengáp                | móongwap
+  to laugh            | --                   | itée                  | toortáwa
+  to weep             | --                   | teeóom                | moonángis
+  native stringed     |                      |                       |
+  instrument          |                      |                       |
+   (_see_ p. 122)     | --                   | dennang               | --
+  _areca_-nut         | tissáh               | heejáh                | pinang
+  coral chalk         | soonám               | shónn                 | kapoor
+  betel-leaf          | kooránia             | hakáyee, aráy         | sirée
+  tortoise-shell      | kap                  | ----                  | koolet-kará
+  fly                 | inlooáyee            | jóoay                 | lapátt
+  mosquito            | moosóka              | mihója                | njamó
+  feather or pencil   | kanuítch             | anet-láyeebery        | kalám
+  wing                | ----                 | danówen               | sajáp
+  name                | minánee              | lérmay                | namáa
+  what is your name?  | ----                 | kin-lérmay            | apa-namáa
+  weapon              | hinwótt              | hindéll               | boodéel
+  cow-pox             | mallóck              | ----                  | tcha-tchár
+  white man           | isohokooa            | bájoo-tatenn-hamátt   | orang-bootáy
+  a Malay or          |                      |                       |
+    yellow man        | ----                 | kolog-hamátt          | orang-máyra
+  black man           | ----                 | taóln-hamátt          | orang-itám
+  voyage or journey   | ----                 | johatáyha             | blajárr
+  doctor              | manlóoena            | manlóoena             | bornów
+  honey               | ----                 | ----                  | lapáa
+  flute (_see_        |                      |                       |
+    p. 122)           | ----                 | hinhell               | bangsée
+
+
+
+
+                             APPENDIX B.
+
+                             VOCABULARY
+
+                       (UPON GALATIN'S SYSTEM)
+
+       OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NATIVES OF PUYNIPET ISLAND (CAROLINE
+             ARCHIPELAGO) AND SIKAYANA, OR STEWART'S ISLAND.
+
+
+                          |   Puynipet,                |   Sikayana,
+  Object.                 |  6° 48' N.,                | 8° 24' 24'' N.,
+                          | 158° 14' E.                |    163° E.
+                          |                            |
+  man                     | ooléen                     | tanáta
+  apparel (men's)         | koáll                      | --
+  men, people             | aramáss                    | --
+  woman                   | lée                        | faféeny
+  apparel (women's)       | lee-koóty                  | --
+  boy                     | tchirri-máoon              | tamali-kirriky
+  girl                    | tchirri-páyni              | tama-feény
+  father                  | paba                       | tamána
+  mother                  | nono                       | tinána
+  old man                 |  --                        | tilui-tanáta
+  old woman               | boóot                      | tama
+  son                     |  --                        | aréeky
+  brother                 | reeágey                    | táeena
+  sister                  | reeágey-lee                | káwe
+  workman or slave        | aramáss-a-mal              | --
+  head                    | --                         | debosoúlu
+  hair                    | --                         | ládóo
+  face                    | --                         | lofeé-máta
+  brow                    | --                         | móa-lái
+  ear                     | --                         | káootalina
+  eye                     | --                         | karimata
+  nose                    | --                         | kai-joosoo
+  mouth                   | --                         | móa-jóosoo
+  tongue                  | --                         | aláydo
+  tooth                   | --                         | nítcho
+  beard                   | --                         | bábaée
+  neck                    | --                         | teoówa
+  arm                     | --                         | léema
+  hand or finger          | --                         | motikáo
+  nail                    | --                         | padde
+  body                    | --                         | fuáitino
+  belly                   | --                         | manáwa
+  thigh or leg            | --                         | koonawáee
+  foot                    | --                         | sapoowáee
+  toes                    | --                         | motikáo-wáee
+  bone                    | --                         | táyeewee
+  heart                   | --                         | wagga-wagga
+  blood                   | --                         | tóto
+  village                 | --                         | takaeena
+  chief                   | tchobity                   | alikée
+  high-chief              | tchobity-lappilap          | --
+  a king                  | nanamaréeky                | --
+  minister                | nannekin                   | --
+  warrior                 | --                         | patooa
+  friend                  | --                         | tosóah
+  house, hut              | nanoom                     | tamafálee
+  bow and arrow           | katchin-kotáyoo            | --
+  musket                  | kotcháck                   | --
+  cannon                  | kotchák-lappilap           | --
+  spear                   | kotáyoo                    | --
+  saw                     | ratch-a-ratch              | --
+  knife                   | kapoot                     | nife (Anglicé knife)
+  young bamboo            | aleck                      | --
+  cocoa-palm              | erring                     | nyóo
+  old cocoa-nut           | erríng                     | mata-séelee
+  young cocoa-nut         | páyeen                     | kamátoo
+  yam                     | kaáp                       | --
+  sugar-cane              | katchin-tchóo              | --
+  bread-fruit             | mahee                      | --
+  banana                  | oot                        | --
+  ginger                  | goonapella                 | --
+  food                    | moonga                     | --
+  rope                    | sháal                      | --
+  coral                   | paeena                     | --
+  reef                    | mát                        | --
+  ship's mast             | kow                        | --
+  ship                    | tchob                      | --
+  mainsail                | tcherrick                  | --
+  launch                  | wooárr                     | wakka
+  large ship, man-of-war  | --                         | wakka-wakka
+  go, fetch me a canoe    | kowa-golawata-ny-wooárr    | --
+  small canoe             | wooárr-madigadig           | --
+  war-canoe               | wooárr-ma-loot             | --
+  shoe                    | --                         | takka
+  bread                   | --                         | papay (from papaya)
+  pipe                    | péepo                      | méety-méety
+  tobacco                 | --                         | tobacco
+  smoke                   | atee-niágey                |
+                          |  (? act of sternutation is |
+                          |  intended to be expressed) | --
+  heaven                  | --                         | teláoo
+  sun                     | katerpin                   | teláh
+  the sun scorches (_sc._ |                            |
+    the sun is evil)      | katerpinban-kara-kara      | --
+  moon                    | tschoonaboong              | maláma
+  star                    | ootchoo                    | fatoó
+  day                     | --                         | trasonáyee
+  light                   | --                         | taeejáo
+  night                   | bong                       | tepóh
+  darkness                | --                         | poóori-táoo
+  morning                 | raán                       | tapa-taeejáo
+  evening (little night)  | --                         | afee-afee
+  wind                    | katchi-niang               | --
+  lightning               | --                         | wooéela
+  thunder                 | --                         | mána
+  rain                    | katow                      | tamakee-tayóowa
+  the rain approaches     | katow-bankoto              | --
+  basket                  | kíam                       | --
+  distilled spirit        | jakó-ni-wáee               | --
+  fire                    | katchiniagey               | áfee
+  water                   | peéel                      | wooáee
+  hot water (also tea)    | peéel-karakara             | --
+  earth, land             | tcháap                     | fanóoa
+  sea                     | nantchéet                  | wooáee-táee
+  hill                    | --                         | faka-maoona
+  island                  | --                         | tama-fanóva
+  stone, rock             | tákee                      | fátoo
+  sand                    | pig                        | --
+  iron                    | --                         | keela
+  tree, wood              | toóee _or_ tóoka           | lagáoo
+  sandal-wood             | tooka-pomow                | --
+  trepang                 | meneeka                    | --
+  red-trepang             | lekapasina-menelka-witata  | --
+  inferior sort           | lognan                     | --
+  best sort               | mayéen                     | --
+  black sort              | matup                      | --
+  trepang split open      | penapen                    | --
+  pearl-oyster            | páee                       | --
+  flesh                   | --                         | tayéeho
+  human flesh             | --                         | takéery
+  pig                     | piig (corrupted            | --
+                          |   from the English)        |
+  dog                     | --                         | koorée
+  bird                    | --                         | looppi
+  egg                     | --                         | tafóoa
+  dove                    | móorie                     | --
+  domestic fowl           | maleek                     | --
+  fish                    | maáam                      | éeka
+  fool                    | booy-booée                 | --
+  hat                     | tchoroóp                   | --
+  chisel                  | tcheela                    | --
+  flask                   | jug (English)              | --
+  calabash                | ay-júg                     | --
+  book                    | ay-tíng                    | --
+  box                     | koba                       | --
+  native cucumber         | toor                       | --
+  apron                   | goál                       | --
+  fish-hook               | katcheen-mata              | --
+  musical instrument      | katcháng                   | --
+  a liar                  | lakoompót                  | --
+  tortoise-shell          | katchinipoot               | masána
+  mosquito                | --                         | namoo
+  name                    | --                         | koái-to-máre
+  what is your name?      | idiatoom?                  | --
+  who are you?            | itch-kowa?                 | --
+  voyage, journey         | --                         | mamao
+  white                   | boot-a-boot                | mah
+  white-man               | oolyn-way                  | tamamáh
+  black                   | tintol                     | óoree
+  black-man               | --                         | lama-ooree
+  red                     | witáta                     | ayóola
+  blue, green             | --                         | ayóoee
+  yellow                  | --                         | kikana
+  great                   | lappiláp                   | naneéoo
+  small                   | madigidig                  | likée-likée
+  strong                  | --                         | faee-mafée
+  young                   | --                         | táaney
+  young man               | --                         | tama-táaney
+  good                    | mamó                       | ayláooe
+  long                    | maréerie                   | --
+  short                   | mootamóot                  | --
+  old                     | --                         | matooa
+  far                     | maloóot                    | ma-máo
+  painfully alarmed       | matchek                    | --
+  bad                     | metchiwate                 | fa-keeno-keeno
+  beautiful               | katchilell                 | ayláosee
+  dead                    | metchilárr                 | koomátie
+  a dead man              | hóni                       | --
+  bad odours              | --                         | puraóo
+  ugly (bad)              | --                         | fa-keeno-keeno
+  ill                     | tchoo-mo                   | áyeesoo
+  living                  | --                         | ayláooee
+  cold                    | --                         | makalili
+  warm                    | kara                       | mafána
+  hot                     | kara-kara                  | --
+  I, me                   | nej                        | enáoo
+  we                      | --                         | kohootóha
+  thou                    | --                         | akóee
+  he                      | --                         | támala
+  ye or you               | noom                       | akoee
+  they                    | kowa                       | --
+  all                     | karootcheea                | kohoo-tóhoo
+  much, many              | matóto                     | tama-kee
+  seldom                  | malólo                     | --
+  where?                  | áya?                       | --
+  who?                    | --                         | sáya?
+  who's there?            | --                         | sáya-táy?
+  which                   | itch                       | --
+  what?                   | ta?                        | --
+  what does that cost?    | táa-ban-pyn?               | --
+  to-day                  | raánauit                   | tai-jáoo
+  this night              | neeboong                   | --
+  near                    | --                         | taoo-preemáee
+  yesterday               | eejáyo                     | na-náfee
+  long since              | kelanáydgo                 | --
+  to-morrow               | lo-koop                    | taya-sóakee
+  yes                     | --                         | oh
+  I know                  | nejereera-neekee           | --
+  no                      | tchó                       | sáyaee
+  I don't know            | nej-tyraneekee             | --
+  how do you call this?   | togata mett?               | --
+  enough, that's enough   | áare                       | --
+  there is no more        | allatcher                  | --
+  fast                    | bit-a-bit                  | --
+  one                     | aáat                       | táahee
+  two                     | aáree                      | róoah
+  three                   | tchil                      | torah
+  four                    | abáng                      | fah
+  five                    | ayliéem                    | leemah
+  six                     | oán                        | ono
+  seven                   | etch                       | féetoo
+  eight                   | ewal                       | wároo
+  nine                    | atóooo                     | séewo
+  ten                     | katingóol etchak           | katáwa
+  eleven                  | katingóol-aát              | katáwa-táhee
+  twelve                  | katingóol-árée             | katáwa-róoah
+  thirteen                | katingóol-etchil           | katáwa-tóra
+  twenty                  | ree-etchak                 | mata-róoah
+  thirty                  | tchil-etchak               | mata-tórah
+  forty                   | pa-etchak                  | mata-fáh
+  fifty                   | lyeem-etchak               | mata-léema
+  sixty                   | oán-etchak                 | mata-on
+  hundred                 | a-bóokie                   | lou
+  200                     | ree-a-bookie               | róoah-lou
+  300                     | tchil-abookie              | --
+  1000                    | ket                        | kutaíoa-lou
+  5000                    | lyeem-a-ket                | --
+  2,505                   | ree-a-ket-lyeem-a-         | --
+                          |   bookie-elyéem            |
+  5,090                   | lyéem-a-ket-átoooo-        | --
+                          |   etchak                   |
+  4,440                   | pa-a-ket-pa-a-bóokie-      | --
+                          |    pa-etchak               |
+  3,030                   | tchil-a-ket-tchil-etchak   | --
+  9,740                   | atóooo-a-ket-etch-         | --
+                          |   a-bóokie-pa-etchak       |
+  10,990                  | nóooo-atóooo-a-bookie-     | --
+                          |   atóooo-etchak            |
+  to eat                  | namenám                    | káee
+  to drink                | --                         | óonoo
+  to run                  | --                         | saéeray
+  to dance                | --                         | anóo
+  to go                   | gota                       | anáaoo
+  to go ashore            | gota-nancháp               | --
+  to go up                | gota-wáai                  | --
+  to descend              | goti-wáai                  | --
+  I am going on board     | --                         | anáoo-gafáno
+  I am going forward      | ny-ban-tchoomeláa          | --
+  whither go you?         | go-leejáa?                 | --
+  go on!                  | hugo-wáai!                 | --
+  stand up!               | hóota!                     | --
+  wait!                   | hooti-mas                  | --
+  sit down                | mónti                      | --
+  lie down                | wenti                      | --
+  to write or tattoo      | ting                       | --
+  to sing                 | --                         | bésse
+  to sleep                | meriláh                    | mói
+  to speak                | kalang                     | tóka
+  to love                 | bukka-bukka                | anáoo-fifái-kikaói
+  I do not love him       | éekah                      | --
+  the dead                | kumméla                    | leékie-teéa
+  It smells unpleasantly  | --                         | poor-áoo
+  to steal                | lyppiráp                   | --
+  to sit                  | --                         | nófo
+  to stand                | --                         | anasáni
+  to come                 | tongata                    | --
+  come back!              | broto                      | --
+  come here!              | ky-to                      | --
+  to bathe                | tóo-tu                     | --
+  to bring                | wáta                       | --
+  to take                 | wá-waée                    | --
+  night-mare              | loátch                     | --
+  to give                 | kiáng                      | --
+  give me                 | kitá                       | --
+  you are giving          | kowa-kiáng                 | --
+
+
+
+
+                         APPENDIX C. (p. 399.)
+
+    FORM IN SPANISH OF THE AGREEMENT ENTERED INTO IN DUPLICATE,
+    CHINESE AND SPANISH, AND SIGNED BY EACH CHINESE EMIGRANT BEFORE
+    LEAVING MACAO.
+
+
+  Nombre__________  Provincia__________
+
+  Edad__________ Profesion__________
+
+  DIGO YO__________    natural__________
+
+en China, de edad de _____ años, que he convenido con Dn. F. VELEZ lo que
+se espresa en las clausulas siguientes:
+
+1^a. Quedo comprometido desde ahora á embarcarme para la HABANA en la Isla
+de Cuba en el buque que me señale dicho Señor.
+
+2^a. Quedo igualmente comprometido y sugeto por el termino de ocho años á
+trabajar en dicho pais de la Isla de Cuba á las ordenes de la SOCIEDAD LA
+COLONIZADORA ó á las de la persona á quien traspasare este Contrato para
+lo cual la faculto, en todas las tareas alli acostumbradas, en el campo,
+en las poblaciones, ó en donde quiera que me destinen, sea en casas
+particulares, establecimientos de cualquiera clase de industria y artes, ó
+bien en ingenios, vegas, cafetales, sitios, potreros, estancias y cuanto
+concierne á las labores urbanas y rurales sea de la especie que fueren.
+
+3^a. Los ocho años de compromiso que dejo contraidos en los terminos
+espresados en la clausula anterior, principiarán á contarse desde el
+octavo dia siguiente al de mi llegada al puerto citado de la HABANA,
+siempre que yo llegare en buena salud, y desde el octavo dia siguiente al
+de mi salida del hospital ó enfermeria, caso de llegar enfermo ó incapaz
+de trabajar al tiempo de mi desembarco.
+
+4^a. Las horas en que he de trabajar dependerán de la clase de trabajo que
+se me dé, y segun las atencinoes que dicho trabajo requiera, lo cual queda
+al arbitrio del patrono á cuyas ordenes se me ponga, siempre que se me dén
+mis horas seguidas de descanso cada 24 horas, y el tiempo preciso a demas
+para la comida y almuerzo, con arreglo á lo que en estas necesidades
+inviertan los de mas trabajadores asalariados en aquel pais.
+
+5^a. Ademas de las horas de descanso, en los dias de trabajo, no podrá
+hacerseme desempeñar en los Domingos mas lavores que las denecesidad
+practicadas en tales dias segun la indole de los que haceres en que me
+ocupen.
+
+6^a. Me sugeto igualmente al orden y disciplina que se observe en el
+establecimiento, taller, finca ó casa particular adonde se me destine, y
+me someto al sistema de coreccion que en los mismos se impone por faltas
+de aplicacion y constancia en el trabajo, de obediencia á las ordenes de
+los patronos ó de sus representantes, y por todas aquellas, cuja gravedad
+no haga precisa la intervencion de las leyes.
+
+7^a. Por ninguna razon ó por ningun pretesto podré, durante los ocho años
+por los cuales quedo comprometido en este Contrato, negar mis servicios al
+patron que me tome, ni á evadirme de su poder, ni á intentarlo siquiera
+por ninguna causa, ni mediante ninguna indemnizacion, y para significar
+mas mi voluntad de permanecer bajo su autoridad en los limites que en este
+Contrato le doy, renuncio desde ahora el derecho de rescision de Contrato
+que otorgan á los colonos los Articulos 27 y 28 de las Ordenanzas sobre
+colonizacion promulgadas por S. M. la Reina DA. YSABEL 2^a. en 22 de Marzo
+de 1854, y el que pudieran otorgarle cualquiera otra ley ó disposiciones
+que en lo sucesivo se publicasen.
+
+8^a. En cuanto á casos de enfermedad convengo y estipulo, que si esta
+escede de una semana se me suspenda el salario, y que este no vuelva á
+correrme hasta mi restablecimiento ó lo que es igual, hasta que mi salud
+permita ocuparme en el servicio de mi patrono, no obstante el tenor de los
+Articulos 43, 44 y 45 del Reglamento citado, pues tambien renuncio al
+derecho que pudiesen otorgarme para ninguna otra ecsigencia que solo á
+fuerza de tramites costosos y largos pudiera llegar á justificarse ó á ser
+reprovada.
+
+Dn. F. VELEZ se obliga poa su parte para conmigo:
+
+1^a. Aque desde el dia en que principien á contarse los ocho años de mi
+compromiso, principie tambien á correrme el salario de cuatro pesos al
+mes.
+
+2^a. Aque se me suministre de alimento cada dia ocho onzas de carne salada
+y dos y media libras de boniatas ó de otras viandas sanas y alimenticias.
+
+3^a. Aque durante mis enfermedades se me proporcione en la enfermeria la
+asistencia que mis males reclamen con los ausilios, medicinas y
+facultativo que mis dolencias y conservacion ecsijan fuere por el tiempo
+que fueren.
+
+4^a. Aque se me dén dos mudas de ropa, una camisa de lana y una frazada
+anuales.
+
+5^a. Será de cuenta del mismo Señor y por la de quien corresponda mi
+pasage hasta la HABANA y mi manutencion á bordo.
+
+6^a. El mismo Señor me adelantará la cantidad de ocho pesos fuertes para
+mi abilitation al viage que voi á emprender.
+
+7^a. Tambien me dará cuatro mudas de ropa, colcha y de mas avios
+necesarios, cujo importe de pesos 4 con los de la clausula anterior hacen
+la suma de pesos doce, la misma que satisfaré en la HABANA á la orden de
+la SOCIEDAD LA COLONIZADORA con un peso al mes que se descontará de mi
+salario por la persona á quien fuere traspasado este Contrato,
+entendiéndose que por ningun otro concepto podrá hacerseme descuento
+alguno.
+
+DECLARO haber recibido en efectivo y en ropa segun se espresa en la ultima
+clausula la suma de pesos doce mencionados que reintegraré en la HABANA en
+la forma establecida en dicha clausula.
+
+DECLARO tambien que me conformo con el salario estipulado, aunque sé y me
+consta es mucho mayor el que ganan los jornaleros libres y los esclavos en
+la Isla da Cuba, porque esta diferencia la juzgo compensada con las otras
+ventajas que ha de proporcionarme mi patrono, y las que aparecen en este
+Contrato.
+
+Y en fé de que cumpliremos mutuamente lo que queda pactado en este
+documento firmamos dos de un tenor y para un solo efecto ambos
+contratantes en ______ á _____ de 18__.
+
+                                   POR LA SOCIEDAD LA COLONIZADORA.
+
+
+                      TRANSLATION OF THE FOREGOING.
+
+  Name________________________   Province__________________
+
+  Age___ Business or occupation____________________
+
+I, the under-signed____________ born at__________ in China ____years old,
+have entered into an agreement with Don F. Velez, upon the following
+conditions, viz.--
+
+1. I engage from the date hereof to embark for the Havannah in the island
+of Cuba in whatever ship the before-mentioned gentleman may appoint.
+
+2. I further promise and engage during the space of eight years to work in
+the said country of Cuba under the orders and regulations of the
+Colonization Society, or of the person to whom the present agreement may
+be assigned, and to perform all necessary agricultural labour in the
+settlement, or wheresoever I may be ordered so to do, whether in a private
+house or in any description of industrial enterprise, or in factories, in
+plantations, in coffee-gardens, at country-seats, or on pasturage grounds,
+and generally all manner of labour, whether in town or country, of what
+description soever it may consist.
+
+3. The eight years during which I bind myself to labour under the
+conditions specified in the last preceding paragraph shall be held to
+commence eight days after my disembarkation in the aforesaid harbour of
+the Havannah, it being always understood that I have been landed in good
+health, or else shall commence on the eighth day after my discharge from
+hospital, in the event of my having landed in ill health or incapable of
+working.
+
+4. The hours during which I bind myself to labour shall depend upon the
+nature of the work which I shall be required to perform, and the degree of
+special attention which such work may require, or may be determined on his
+own responsibility by the master under whose orders I may be placed,
+provided always that I am permitted to enjoy certain hours of repose
+during every 24 hours, and certain fixed periods for breakfast and dinner,
+similar to those assigned to other paid labourers in that country.
+
+5. Besides my hours of rest and recreation during work days, I shall not
+be bound to do any work upon Sundays, beyond such necessary labour as may
+seem to be requisite in the opinion of my employer or employers.
+
+6. I also bind myself to submit to the orders and discipline which may be
+in force in the house of business, farm, or private house in which I am
+employed, and further agree that I shall be amenable to such _system of
+punishment_ as may be in force in such localities for the correction of
+indolence, absence from work, disobedience to the orders of any employers
+or their agents, as also for all such minor offences as may not call for
+the intervention of the law.
+
+7. On no account whatever, and under no circumstances, shall it be lawful
+for me during the aforesaid period of eight years for which I hereby bind
+myself, to absent myself from my employer's service, or to withdraw or
+escape from his authority, or under any circumstance or under any
+provocation to complain against him, and in order to render more binding
+upon me this declaration of my voluntary obedience to all these
+provisions, I _renounce_ from the date of the present subscription the
+right to rescind the provisions of this contract secured to emigrants by
+articles 27 and 28 of the ordinances on colonization promulgated by H. M.
+Queen Isabella II., 22 March, 1854, as also any similar rights that may be
+secured to emigrants by any laws or official documents published or to be
+published in reference thereto.
+
+8. In case of sickness or infirmity I agree and declare that I fully
+consent that if such illness shall exceed one week in duration, my wages
+shall be stopped, and shall remain suspended until my recovery, or, which
+is the same thing, until such time as my health permits me to re-enter the
+service of my employer, without having recourse to the articles 43, 44,
+and 45 of the aforesaid regulations, my rights under which I forego by the
+last preceding paragraph, and do again _renounce_.
+
+Don F. Velez for his part engages with me:--
+
+1. That from the day on which my said term of eight years' service begins,
+my wages shall be paid at the rate of four Spanish piastres monthly.
+
+2. That there shall be provided me daily eight ounces of salt meat and two
+and a half pounds Boniatas (_Jatropha Manihot_), or other equally good and
+nutritious food.
+
+3. That in the event of illness I shall be provided in the hospital with
+such things as my case may require, and in particular with all medicines,
+&c., necessary to restore me to health, so long as my illness may last.
+
+4. That I shall be supplied annually with two pairs of trowsers, one
+woollen shirt, and one woollen coat.
+
+5. That my passage to the Havannah and maintenance while on board shall
+be defrayed at the expense of my employer or his agent or representative.
+
+6. That my employer shall further pay me eight dollars in order to enable
+me to provide necessaries for the said voyage; and further,
+
+7. That he shall provide me with four pairs of trowsers and a coverlet,
+the same not to exceed four dollars, making with the preceding the sum of
+12 dollars, which 12 dollars I bind myself to repay to the order of the
+Colonization Society, by means of a monthly instalment of one dollar paid
+by the person with whom my labour shall be contracted for, but upon the
+further condition that no other deduction whatever shall be made from my
+said monthly pay.
+
+I hereby declare that, in conformity with the preceding paragraph, I have
+received by way of cash advance and in clothing the equivalent of the said
+12 dollars, which, as already stipulated, shall be repaid by me at the
+Havannah.
+
+I also declare that I am perfectly satisfied with the aforesaid payment,
+although I am aware, and it is well known, that the free labourers, as
+also the negro slaves, in the island of Cuba, are paid a much larger wage.
+But I consider myself recompensed for this difference by the other
+advantages which my employer binds himself to secure to me, and which are
+set forth in the present contract. And in witness that we on either side
+engage that the provisions hereof shall be duly and faithfully carried
+out, we subscribe on that behalf two copies of similar purport this ____
+day of ____ 18__.
+
+                                  For the Colonization Society, __________
+
+                                         Signature of emigrant, __________
+
+
+
+
+                     APPENDIX D. (pp. 539-548).
+
+    DESCRIPTION OF THE TYPHOON ENCOUNTERED IN THE CHINESE SEAS, BY
+    H.I.R.M.'s FRIGATE NOVARA, ON THE 18TH AND 19TH AUGUST, 1858.
+
+
+The path of the typhoon has been deduced from comparison with the readings
+of the barometer, with which it corresponds pretty accurately, if due
+allowance be made for the fact, that in determining it the various
+directions in which the line of centres runs must be calculated on the
+supposition that the orbit of the cyclone is circular, which it is not in
+reality, since at any considerable distance from the centre it must be
+elliptical. Hence it is apparent that the rate of velocity of the cyclone
+in advancing along its path follows no fixed law, whereas some such
+regularity undoubtedly exists among the masses of air encountered by the
+cyclone. Hence too the errors thus made in specifying the direction of the
+wind become of considerable importance in this connection, more especially
+in the event of the place of observation being at any distance from the
+centre, or that the path of the cyclone forms a sharp angle when wheeling
+round. Moreover, as actually experienced, the path of the typhoon would
+lie more near the line of the points of observation than a sketch founded
+upon such observations would indicate, and than a general comparison of
+the paths of cyclones founded upon the theory of their gyratory motion
+would substantiate, except in those cases where the observer has been
+directly in the path of the cyclone.
+
+In our case the absolute distances, as specified in the annexed table (see
+p. 490) of fifteen different stations taken during the three days during
+which the cyclone and its premonitory and subsequent symptoms lasted, are
+only assumed, because simultaneous observations of the varying directions
+of the wind could not be taken at various points of the course of the
+cyclone, and in so far may be inaccurate, although the relative distances
+might possibly be tolerably correct.
+
+The observations as to the direction of the wind at noon of the 18th
+August and at the ensuing midnight, give results contradictory to the
+theory, since the wind in both cases is almost the same as would at
+midnight of the 19th indicate a central point, falling actually behind
+that portion of the path of the line of centres already traversed on the
+18th. Upon this showing the direction of the wind at 6 P.M. of the 18th
+may be assumed as that of the centre of the cyclone. In fact, the path of
+the cyclone at this point lay parallel with the course the ship was
+holding, whence only trifling variations would be observable in the
+direction of the wind at those periods. Besides, the cyclone was at that
+time approaching the vertex of its orbit, in doing which it encountered
+the large and tolerably lofty island of Okinawa-Sima of the Loo-Choo
+group, which must have resulted in a certain expenditure of the force
+causing the gyratory movement of the cyclone. In analyzing the path of the
+cyclone, account must also be taken of the winds that prevailed from the
+17th August up to midnight, although these are to be considered, with
+respect to the cyclone proper, only in so far as they were winds that had
+been altered in direction at the origin of the typhoon in conformity with
+the laws of cyclones, which by no means imply in all cases a perfect
+gyration. However, as these winds are varied in direction by the same
+causes which are in full activity in the case of the cyclones, such
+variations must follow the same laws, and the lines of centres which
+present themselves with reference to these as parts of a circular orbit,
+naturally lie in the same direction as that of the cyclone at its origin.
+
+As early as the 13th August a marked alteration in the temperature of the
+air had been perceptible at Shanghai; the thermometer fell from between
+86° and 95° Fahr. to between 73°.4 and 78°.8 Fahr.: easterly breezes set
+in, and the barometer rose in a remarkable manner for that latitude and
+season. On the 17th the weather was still fine, but the sun set red and
+fiery behind a dense mass of clouds.
+
+The morning of the 18th broke with continued fine weather; but cumulous
+clouds were massed on the sky, and looked black and threatening to the
+N.E. By 8 A.M. the wind and sea had both risen materially. By 3 P.M. the
+roll of the sea was from N. by E., the sky became still more cloudy, and
+the clouds began to descend; banks of clouds in the direction of the
+central point. At midnight between the 18th and 19th altered course to W.
+by S., in order to run out of the cyclone by reaching its southern edge.
+
+On the 19th at 8 A.M. a heavy sea from the northward, the sky a dense mass
+of clouds with very limited horizon; the whole aspect of the heavens a
+grey misty wrack of clouds, gradually falling lower and lower,--only in
+the direction of the central point was there visible a gloomy,
+leaden-coloured segment of clear horizon. From 4 P.M. to 8 P.M. the clouds
+completely enveloped us, so that it was barely possible to descry an
+object a cable's length from the ship; constant gusts of wind with fine
+rain or sea-spray; very heavy sea from the west, but the waves fairly
+decapitated by the wind as fast as they rose. By 11 P.M. a few dark clouds
+became visible in the S.S.E., and the horizon began to widen again.
+
+20th. The sky still covered; in the west, white parallel bands of clouds,
+forming segments of circles: the masts and rigging covered with a crust of
+evaporated salt.
+
+                         17th August.
+
+  Hours        Mean                Direction            Strength
+  from         pressure            of wind.             of wind
+  midnight     of                                       0 to 10.
+  to           atmosphere.
+  midnight.
+
+    1           29.908             S.E. 3/4 E.          3.5
+    2             .912             S.E. by E. 1/4 E.    3.5
+    3             .915             S.E. by E. 1/4 E.    3.5
+    4             .917             S.E. by E. 1/2 E.    2.5
+    5             .914             S.E. by E. 1/4 E.    2.5
+    6             .913             E.S.E.               2.5
+    7             .909             S.E. by E. 3/4 E.    2.5
+    8             .899             E.S.E.               3.
+    9             .886             S.E. by E. 1/2 E.    3.
+   10             .878             E. by S. 1/4 S.      3.
+   11             .869             E. 3/4 S.            3.
+   12M.           .860             E. 1/4 S.            3.
+    1             .852             E. 1/2 S.            3.5
+    2             .853             E. 1/2 S.            3.5
+    3             .848             E.                   3.2
+    4             .834             E. 1/2 N.            4.
+    5             .817             E.N.E.               4.
+    6           29.808             E.N.E.               4.
+    7             .810             N.E. by E. 1/4 E.    4.
+    8             .812             N.E. by E. 1/4 E.    3.5
+    9             .812             N.E. by E.           3.5
+   10             .806             N.E. by E. 1/2 E.    3.5
+   11             .795             E.N.E.               3.5
+   12             .784             E.N.E.               3.5
+
+                       18th August.
+
+    1           29.779             E. by N.             3.5
+    2             .771             E. by N.             3.2
+    3             .762             E. by N.             3.2
+    4             .758             E. by N.             3.2
+    5             .751             E. by N.             3.5
+    6             .740             N.E. by E. 1/2 E.    3.5
+    7             .721             N.E. by E.           4.
+    8             .696             N.E. by E.           4.5
+    9           29.666             N.E. by E.           5.
+   10             .640             N.E.                 5.2
+   11             .612             N.E. 1/2 N.          5.7
+   12M.           .581             N.E. by N.           6.5
+    1             .548             N.E. by N. 1/2 N.    5.
+    2             .526             N.E. by N.           6.5
+    3             .50              N.                   7.5
+    4             .482             N. by E.             7.
+    5             .459             N.E. by N.           7.5
+    6             .435             N.E. by N.           8.
+    7             .421             N.E. by N.           8.
+    8             .411             N.E. by N.           8.
+    9             .408             N.E. by N.           8.
+   10             .405             N.E. 3/4 N.          8.5
+   11             .401             N.E. 1/2 N.          8.7
+   12             .375             N.E. 1/2 N.          8.7
+
+                        19th August.
+
+    1           29.306             N.E. by N.           5.7
+    2             .319             N. by E.             8.
+    3             .335             N. by E.             7.
+    4             .351             N.                   7.5
+    5             .364             N. 1/2 E.            7.2
+    6             .376             N.                   7.2
+    7             .383             N. by W.             6.5
+    8             .376             N. by W. 1/2 W.      7.2
+    9             .361             N.N.W.               7.7
+   10             .347             N.N.W.               8.
+   11           29.324             N.W.                 8.
+   12M.           .295             N.W.                 8.
+    1             .268             N.W. 1/2 W.          7.7
+    2             .252             N.W. by W.           7.5
+    3             .238             N.W. by W.           7.7
+    4             .223             N.W. by W. 1/2 W.    7.7
+    5             .220             W. by N. 1/2 N.      8.
+    6             .221             W. by N. 1/2 N.      8.
+    7             .225             W. by N. 1/2 N.      8.
+    8             .229             W. by N.             8.5
+    9             .233             W.                   8.5
+   10             .243             W.                   8.5
+   11             .256             W.                   8.5
+   12             .282             W. by S.             9.
+
+                     20th August to noon.
+
+    1           29.351             W. by S. 1/2 S.      9.
+    2             .363             W. by S.             9.
+    3             .375             W. by S.             9.
+    4             .413             W. by S.             9.
+    5             .437             W.S.W.               7.5
+    6             .457             S.W. by W.           7.
+    7             .457             S.W. 1/2 W.          6.
+    8             .471             S.W.                 6.
+    9             .489             S.W. 1/2 S.          6.5
+   10             .505             S.W. 1/2 S.          6.5
+   11             .512             S.W. 1/2 S.          6.5
+   12M.           .515             S.W. 1/2 S.          6.5
+
+The barometric readings are corrected to the freezing-point density of the
+atmosphere, as also to the level of the ocean, and are further reduced by
+comparison with the Standard Barometer at the New Observatory. They are
+also relieved of a source of error arising from the regular decline for
+each day of the barometer, as evidenced by the observations made during
+June and July, 1858, in mean latitude 23° 52' N., mean longitude 119° 12'
+E. This downward tendency will be apparent from the following readings for
+each hour:--for 1h. (A.M.) - 0.004, 2h. - 0.005, 3h. - 0.0012, 4h. -0.015,
+5h. - 0.012, 6h. - 0.006, 7h. - 0.02, 8h. - 0.012, 9h. - 0.021, 10h.
+-0.02, 11h. - 0.018, noon - 0.015, 1h. - 0.008, 2h. - 0.007, 3h. -0.021,
+4h. - 0.025, 5h. - 0.023, 6h. - 0.015, 7h. - 0.008, 8h. - 0.001, 9h.
+-0.008, 10h. - 0.014, 11h. - 0.015, 12h. (midnight) - 0.011. These
+quantities are to be read as implying that when added to or deducted from
+those supplied by actual observations, they result in the quantities
+already assigned as the corrected averages for the day. The direction as
+well as strength of the wind are copied from the averages as calculated by
+the Commodore from the ship's log, the meteorological journals and the
+daily postings made by the Commodore himself.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+According to the delineation of the path of the cyclone, as prepared from
+the observations recorded, the following table, already referred to, gives
+the approximative distance of the ship at stated points from such central
+path, as compared with that deduced from barometrical observations,
+allowing for the differences already mentioned. In the case of the
+wind-pressure, the average is deduced from the mean of successive
+observations taken every hour, and for the most part divided into
+intervals of three hours each.
+
+                               Distance.   Air-     Difference.  Distance
+                                         pressure.               according
+                                                                 to curve.
+
+   1   17th August  4 A.M.       336     29.915 in.               336
+   2   "    "       noon.        297       .860       0.055       300
+   3   18th "       midnight.    265       .783        .132       257
+   4   "    "       6 A.M.       230       .736        .178       233
+   5   "    "       9 A.M.       205       .667        .248       205
+   6   "    "       6 P.M.       153       .438        .477       153
+   7   19th "       3 A.M.       140       .335        .580       138
+   8   "    "       5 A.M.       148       .364        .551       142
+   9   "    "       8 A.M.       146       .373        .542       143
+  10   "    "       noon.        125       .296        .619       130
+  11   "    "       3 P.M.       123       .238        .677       122
+  12   "    "       6 P.M.       134       .222        .693       138
+  13   "    "       9 P.M.       148       .235        .680       144
+  14   20th "       midnight.    183       .296        .619       183
+  15   "    "       6 A.M.       313       .450        .465       313
+
+The minimum pressure according to the curve would be 28.975, but must
+actually have been less. According to the strict reading it would result
+that all radii before reaching the point where nearest the central path,
+as also all those in the same half-circle after such central line has been
+crossed, should have the same value, whatever the direction, which if
+rigidly asserted cannot be correct, since the motion of a cyclone is truly
+circular only in the immediate vicinity of its central point. As that
+point is receded from, the motion becomes more or less elliptical, as is
+attested by the barometric differences, which had the cyclone been a true
+circle in all its parts ought to be similar for similar distances. This it
+is admitted is not the case, as the barometric pressure shows a marked
+decline in the earlier part of a cyclone the more rapidly the central line
+is approached, just as it rises again once that line has been passed.
+
+For this reason the distances as assigned upon a line of curves deduced
+from the foregoing observations must be too great, especially those which
+are calculated at right angles to the path of the typhoon, because
+perpendiculars drawn at right angles to the varying directions of the wind
+must intersect each other at points more distant than the actual central
+point of the cyclone itself.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+To the foregoing may be appended a few extracts recounting the damage done
+by the great typhoon of 27th July, 1862, from which some idea may be
+formed of the tremendous violence and destructive effects of this
+description of atmospheric agency.
+
+_From London and China Telegraph, 29th Sept., 1862._
+
+"A dreadful typhoon occurred at Canton on 27th July, 1862. The destruction
+of life and property is immense, the loss of life in the city and
+neighbourhood being estimated at about forty thousand. In the telegram
+which was received a few days ago announcing this event, a query was
+placed, and very reasonably, after the number stated; but the press state
+that as far as inquiries have been made at present it is probably correct.
+The loss of life has chiefly occurred amongst the junk population, and the
+fine new fleet of forty Imperial junks, intended for the Yang-tse-kiang,
+has been destroyed. The water rose till the streets of Honam had three
+feet in them, but the buildings suffered less than might have been
+expected; some two or three hundred feet of the granite wall at Shameen
+was washed away, and blocks of stone were driven about as if they had been
+billets of wood; houses in the city had also been blown down, and trees
+rooted up; the rice crops have suffered severely; and the total damage may
+be estimated in millions of dollars. Mr. Gaillard, an American Missionary,
+was killed by the falling in of his house; and the residences of the Rev.
+Messrs. Bonney and Piercey were thrown down, a large junk having been
+driven up against them. At Whampoa the docks were all flooded, while the
+workshops attached were unroofed and otherwise injured. From the _China
+Mail_, which gives a long and graphic description of this disastrous
+visitation, we extract the following:--'The British brig _Mexicana_
+capsized in Hall and Co.'s dock, and lies on her beam-ends; the British
+ship _Dewa Gungadhur_ is lying on her side in Gow and Co.'s dock; the
+British steamer _Antelope_, in the Chinese dock at the corner of Junk
+River, has her bow run up over the head of the dock, and her stern at an
+angle of thirty degrees into it; the British steamer _Bombay Castle_ was
+washed off the blocks in Couper's wooden dock, and was scuttled by her
+captain to save her from being floated out of the dock; the American ship
+_Washington_ is aground, blocking up the entrance to the Chinese dock in
+Junk River; the American ship _Jacob Bell_ and British barque _Cannata_
+are high on a mud flat, dry at low water--the latter making water, and
+discharging her cargo; the new British steamer _Whampoa_ broke from her
+moorings and went ashore, but has since been got off without injury.
+Several chops sunk, and five of the foreign Customs' inspectors were
+drowned. Many junks went down with all hands. Bamboo-town is entirely
+destroyed, the water having flooded it to the depth of six feet, and swept
+off a great number of its inhabitants. It is greatly to be feared that the
+disasters among the shipping outside will prove something frightful, and
+that many vessels now anxiously expected have either been driven on the
+rocks and gone to pieces or have foundered at sea. Already, it will have
+been observed, one dismasted vessel, the Danish brig _Hercules_, has come
+in; and more may be looked for in the course of the next fortnight. The
+_Iskandershah_ is on shore in the river, close to Tiger Island, a little
+above the Bogue.' One writer says the city looks just as it did after the
+bombardment by Admiral Seymour, and that there has not been such a typhoon
+since 1832.
+
+"The typhoon which visited Canton so severely also committed great ravages
+at the port of Macao. The loss of life was very great. Many junks were
+sunk or driven ashore, and their crews drowned. The _Chilo_, a British
+ship engaged in the rice trade, went ashore, and is a total wreck; and
+another vessel was also reported lost. The wharves have suffered severely,
+and houses were blown down. A letter, dated 28th July, says:--'Yesterday
+morning a very strong typhoon did a great deal of damage here. The new sea
+wall on the Praia Grande stood it well, except in one place; but the old
+one, which has stood so many typhoons before, is now nearly entirely
+broken down; also Messrs. De Mello and Co.'s wharf. Some houses have come
+down, and trees on the Praia and other places have lost nearly all their
+branches. The British barque _Chilo_ got ashore outside, and has parted
+amidships; about 100 piculs copper cash have been saved from her cargo.
+The steamer _Syce_ is ashore in the inner harbour, but without damage. A
+good many junks and boats have capsized or been dismasted, and a great
+many lives lost. The appearance of the Praia Grande after the typhoon was
+really astonishing. We had a very short notice or indication of a typhoon.
+On Saturday night the wind commenced to blow from N.E., but not before
+Sunday morning, about a quarter past four, did the barometer go down, and
+it stood at 8 A.M. at 28.60; thermometer 81. At about 10 A.M. it was
+blowing hardest from S.W., and caused the greatest damage.'"
+
+
+
+
+                               VOL. III.
+
+                         APPENDIX I. (p. 13.)
+
+    _The following reprint (by permission) from the columns of the
+    "Spectator" of 11th Oct. and 25th Oct., 1862, conveys so
+    accurate an idea of the achievements of the gallant and lamented
+    Burke and Wills, and of the mismanagement that led to their
+    disastrous fate, that no apology is needed for inserting it
+    here._
+
+
+            THE AUSTRALIAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION OF 1860.[159]
+
+                 (_Spectator, 11th and 25th Oct., 1862._)
+
+"Those who are interested--and who is not?--in the history of the latest
+and most successful of Australian exploring expeditions will find the
+principal materials requisite for the satisfaction of their curiosity in
+the small volume now before us. The special interest attaching to this
+particular expedition lies in the striking contrast which it presents
+between the perfect success of its leaders and their melancholy end.
+Having accomplished their arduous task of traversing the Australian
+continent from south to north, Messrs. Burke and Wills returned to their
+starting-point, only to find that the dépôt which they had established
+there had been abandoned by their companions less than twelve hours before
+their arrival. Utterly broken down by privation and fatigue, and
+disappointed of the succour on which they had confidently relied, they
+were unable to traverse the comparatively trifling distance which
+separated them from the settled districts, and, after some weeks of
+hopeless wandering, they were literally starved to death when almost
+within sight of aid. The story of these few weeks, as contained in the
+scanty records left by Messrs. Burke and Wills, and in the statement made
+by their sole surviving companion, is one of the most touching narratives
+of human fortitude that we have ever met with. The feeling of sympathy,
+almost painful in its intensity, which it necessarily excites, is
+immediately followed by a desire to ascertain the precise quarter in
+which the gross neglect which alone could have rendered such a
+catastrophe possible can justly be charged. It is to this point that we
+propose mainly to direct the remarks which we have to make on Mr.
+Jackson's volume; and we shall recapitulate the history of the expedition
+only so far as is absolutely necessary to render our observations
+generally intelligible.
+
+"The exploring party left Melbourne on August 20, 1860. It was accompanied
+by a number of camels, which had been imported for the purpose, on the
+supposition that these animals would be peculiarly fitted to bear the
+privations incidental to such a journey. The party was headed by Mr.
+Robert O'Hara Burke. Mr. Landells, who had charge of the camels, was
+second in command; and the third officer was Mr. William John Wills, who
+also acted as astronomical and meteorological observer to the expedition.
+On September 23 they reached Menindie, on the Darling river, about 400
+miles from Melbourne. Here Mr. Landells, in consequence of some
+disagreement with Mr. Burke, resigned his post; and Dr. Beckler, the
+medical officer to the expedition, declined to go any further. Hereupon
+Burke appointed Wills in Landells' place, and divided his party, leaving
+one section at Menindie, in charge of Beckler, while he, with Wills and
+six others, pushed on, on October 19, for Cooper's Creek, about 400 miles
+further north, under the guidance of one Wright, a man acquainted with the
+country, whom he met with on the spot. On October 31, when about half-way
+between Menindie and Cooper's Creek, Burke appointed Wright third officer,
+and sent him back to the Darling, with instructions to bring up the
+remainder of the party and stores to Cooper's Creek without delay. He then
+pushed on, and reached the Creek on November 11. He remained here about a
+month, and then again divided his party. Three men, six camels, and twelve
+horses were left at the dépôt on the Creek, under the command of Mr.
+Brahé, whose instructions were to remain till Burke's return, or until he
+was forced to retreat by want of provisions. Burke started on December 16,
+taking with him Wills, King, and Gray, six camels, one horse, and
+provisions for three months, which was the time he expected to be absent;
+but he told Brahé that he might be away four months, or even more. On
+February 11, 1861, he reached a point only a few miles from the shore of
+the Gulf of Carpentaria, and thus accomplished his mission of entirely
+crossing the Australian Continent from south to north. He at once retraced
+his steps, and arrived at the dépôt in Cooper's Creek on April 21,
+accompanied by Wills and King, Gray having died a few days before. They
+found that Brahé had quitted his post that very morning, and started for
+the Darling, leaving some provisions buried at the foot of a tree, on
+which he had cut an inscription indicating the fact. The exhausted
+explorers debated what they had best do. Wills and King wished to make for
+Menindie; but Burke, thinking that, weak as they were, it was hopeless to
+try to overtake Brahé, decided to push for the nearest settled districts
+of South Australia, distant about 150 miles. This they did on April 23,
+having left a note in Brahé's _cache_, but without adding anything to his
+inscription on the tree, or leaving any distinct intimation that they had
+ever been there. But the enterprise was beyond their strength. They were
+so weak that they could not advance more than five or six miles a day;
+their camels knocked up, their provisions ran short; and, finally, Burke
+died on July 1st, Wills having succumbed a day or two earlier. King, the
+sole survivor, fell in with the natives, who treated him kindly; and he
+was rescued on September 15th by a party sent from Melbourne in search of
+him, under the guidance of Mr. Howitt.
+
+"We must now return to Mr. Wright, and see how he carried out the
+instructions given him by his chief. Mr. Burke, as we have already said,
+sent him back to Menindie on October 31, 1860; and he reached that place
+on November 5. Here, in the teeth of Burke's orders to bring the rest of
+the party on to Cooper's Creek _without delay_, he remained inactive until
+January 26, 1861, when he appears to have moved northward. He never,
+however, got further than Bullo, a place about sixty miles south of
+Cooper's Creek, where Mr. Brahé fell in with him on April 29, and at once
+placed himself under his orders. Two days later Wright left Bullo, and
+moved a few miles further south, "not seeing the utility of pushing on the
+dépôt to Cooper's Creek for the purpose of remaining there the few weeks
+their stores would last." On May 3, at Brahé's suggestion, Wright and he
+returned to the dépôt on Cooper's Creek, taking no stores with them. They
+remained there a quarter of an hour, did not examine the _cache_, and
+then, seeing no signs of Burke having been there, rejoined the rest of
+their party, and made their way back to the Darling, whence Brahé at once
+proceeded to Melbourne. On hearing his report, the Exploration Committee
+lost no time in despatching the relief party, under Mr. Howitt, which, as
+we have already said, discovered King in the following September.
+
+"After the foregoing brief summary of the facts of the case, the reader
+will probably have but little difficulty in coming to the conclusion that
+the death of Messrs. Burke and Wills was, in great measure, owing to Mr.
+Wright's having so unaccountably neglected to obey the distinct
+instructions of his chief. Mr. Jackson, indeed, holds that no one but
+Wright was at all to blame in the matter. Nay, he even goes so far as to
+accuse Wright of having wilfully and deliberately left the leaders of the
+expedition to a fate which he must have known would be the natural result
+of his inaction. 'Can any reasonable person,' he asks, 'doubt that Wright
+knew perfectly well the exact nature of his instructions, and foresaw the
+disastrous consequences almost certain to ensue should they be
+disregarded.' This very serious charge is based upon a passage in a
+despatch from Mr. Wright to the Exploration Committee at Melbourne, dated
+Dec. 19th, in which he says:--'As I have every reason to believe that Mr.
+Burke has pushed on from Cooper's Creek, relying upon finding the dépôt
+stores at that water-course upon his return, there is room for the most
+serious apprehensions as to the safety of himself and party, should he
+find that he has miscalculated.' This passage seems at least to prove that
+Wright had fully comprehended both the meaning and the object of the
+instructions he had received, _to return to Menindie, and bring up the
+stores as rapidly as possible to Cooper's Creek_. In the teeth of these
+positive orders he remained at Menindie no less than eighty-two days, from
+Nov. 5th, 1860, to Jan. 26th, 1861, doing literally nothing at all. There
+was, as far as we can see, nothing to prevent him from reaching Cooper's
+Creek with a portion of the stores before the end of 1860. The distance
+from Menindie to the Creek is about 400 miles, and Mr. Burke had traversed
+it without difficulty in twenty-three days. When Burke left Cooper's Creek
+on December 16th, he was in daily expectation of Wright's arrival. Had
+this reasonable expectation been fulfilled, there would then have been no
+reason why Brahé should not have remained at the dépôt for six months, or
+even a longer time. Wright appears to have spent a considerable portion of
+the time which he wasted at Menindie in making trips to see his wife and
+family, who were at a station about twenty-one miles off, being troubled
+with fears that they would not get safely and comfortably to Adelaide,
+whither he wished to send them. The explanation by which he subsequently
+endeavoured to account for his delay was anything but satisfactory. In the
+despatch already referred to, dated Dec. 29th, he alleged that he 'delayed
+starting merely because the camels left behind by Mr. Brahé were too few
+in number, and too inferior in carrying powers, to carry out a really
+serviceable quantity of provisions.' When, however, he was examined by the
+Commissioners appointed to inquire into the affair, he stated that he
+remained at Menindie because he was waiting for the confirmation of his
+appointment as third officer. When pressed to reconcile these two
+statements, and reminded that, unless he could do so satisfactorily, he
+'stood in an awkward position before the Commission,' he made no reply.
+When at last he did set out from Menindie, we have seen that he advanced
+no further than Bullo, where he was joined by Brahé on April 29th. In
+explanation of this circumstance, he urges that Burke had left Menindie at
+a favourable season, when water was abundant; while when he started the
+advance of summer had dried up all the water-courses, and the ravages of
+scurvy had reduced the effective strength of his party to an alarming
+extent. This statement is, no doubt, substantially true; but we need
+hardly observe that it rather aggravates than extenuates his offence.
+Since he was well acquainted with the country, and knew that the advance
+of summer would immensely increase the difficulty of traversing it, he is
+all the more inexcusable for not having attempted the journey before the
+hot weather set in. When, after having been joined by Brahé, he paid a
+final visit to Cooper's Creek, the careless manner in which he conducted
+the search almost drives us to the conclusion that he was completely
+indifferent to its result. It was at Brahé's suggestion that he went back
+at all. Then though both he and Brahé were mounted, and were accompanied
+by a spare pack-horse, he did not, although the contingency of finding
+Burke's party was the sole object of his journey, attempt to provide for
+it by taking with him any stores of any kind. On reaching the dépôt, he
+stayed there only a quarter of an hour, and then, having failed in that
+time to discover any trace of Burke's party, at once turned his back on
+the Creek. It is scarcely possible to imagine how, under such
+circumstances, he could have omitted to examine the _cache_ made by Brahé
+a few days before, in which case he would have discovered that Burke's
+party had returned to the Creek, and would have learnt the direction in
+which they had gone. When questioned on this point by the Commissioners,
+he replied that he had noticed traces of natives about the place, and
+feared that if he disturbed the ground where the stores were hid they
+would see that something was buried there, and would plunder the _cache_.
+He 'had not the presence of mind,' he went on, to add any mark of his own
+to the inscription which Brahé had cut upon the tree. He seems, in fact,
+to have been thoroughly sick of the whole business, and to have thought of
+nothing but getting back to the settled districts with all possible speed.
+
+"We must now inquire what amount of blame can be fairly attached to Mr.
+Brahé, whose departure from Cooper's Creek was the immediate cause of the
+melancholy end of Messrs. Burke and Wills. He appears to have received
+instructions to remain at the Creek until the return of Burke's party, or,
+at any rate, until the failure of his provisions obliged him to retreat.
+Burke fixed three months as the probable duration of his absence; but
+Wills seems to have impressed upon Brahé that it was quite possible they
+might have been away for at least four months. Brahé did actually remain
+there more than four months--from December 16th to April 21st;--but he
+left before he was absolutely compelled to do so. Even supposing him not
+to have overrated the supply of provisions necessary to carry his party
+back to the Darling, he could clearly have remained until he had consumed
+the stores which he left behind him at the Creek. But we must not forget
+that he was placed in a very difficult position. One of his companions was
+dangerously ill, and had for some time beset him with entreaties to return
+to Menindie; and all his party seem to have thought it very doubtful
+whether Burke would return that way at all. In Brahé's diary, on April
+18th, we find the entry, 'There is no probability of Mr. Burke returning
+this way.' Here the observation suggests itself that, had this been his
+real conviction, there was no occasion for him to deprive himself of the
+stores which he left behind him. Mr. Jackson points out that the letter
+left by Brahé in the _cache_ at the Creek did not give a true account of
+the condition of his party. In it Brahé said that they were all quite
+well except one, and that the camels and horses were in good working
+condition. It was this intelligence which induced Burke to decide to make
+a push for South Australia. Had he known that Brahé's party, both men and
+beasts, were really in a weak and exhausted state, as the slowness of
+their rate of progression appears to prove, he would probably have decided
+to follow in their track. Since Brahé was under Wright's command at the
+time of their final return to Cooper's Creek, the lamentable carelessness
+which, as we have already said, was displayed on that occasion, cannot
+fairly be laid to his charge. It is almost impossible for us, with the
+full knowledge of all the circumstances which we now possess, not to allow
+our judgment to be influenced by the fact that, if Brahé had postponed his
+departure for a few hours only, the melancholy catastrophe would not have
+occurred. If, however, we wish to judge him fairly, we must not forget
+that this is a fact of which, at the time of his departure, he was
+necessarily ignorant. On the whole, we are inclined to agree with the
+verdict pronounced in his case by the Commissioners who were appointed to
+inquire into the affair. 'His decision,' they say, 'was most unfortunate;
+but we believe he acted from a conscientious desire to discharge his duty,
+and we are confident that the painful reflection that twenty-four hours'
+further perseverance would have made him the rescuer of the explorers, and
+gained for himself the praise and approbation of all, must be of itself an
+agonizing thought, without the addition of censure he might feel himself
+undeserving of.'
+
+"We have now to inquire into the manner in which Mr. Burke discharged his
+duties as leader of the expedition, with a view of ascertaining whether
+its melancholy termination can, in any degree, be traced to any fault,
+whether of omission or of commission, on his part. If we are willing to
+submit ourselves absolutely to Mr. Jackson's guidance, we may, indeed,
+spare ourselves this trouble; for he asserts most distinctly that Mr.
+Burke invariably did what was best under existing circumstances, and that
+he never neglected any precaution which could tend in any way to bring his
+undertaking to a successful issue. But we must remember that Mr. Jackson
+comes forward as the avowed advocate of Mr. Burke; and, while we are not
+one whit behind him in enthusiastic admiration for the energy and
+self-devotion displayed by his hero, we must not allow our respect for
+these qualities to blind us to any defects which we think we can detect in
+the conduct of the expedition. The report of the Commission, appointed by
+the Victorian Government to inquire into the circumstances connected with
+the death of Burke and Wills, finds fault with Burke on several points,
+which we will proceed to consider in detail. In the first place, it
+pronounces that Burke acted 'most injudiciously' in dividing his party at
+Menindie. We are not sure that we can entirely concur in this verdict. We
+do not see any evidence that Burke intended the dépôt at Menindie to be a
+permanent one. On the contrary, it seems clear that he intended it to have
+been transferred bodily to Cooper's Creek. On his arrival at Menindie, Dr.
+Beckler's refusal to proceed further placed him in an awkward position. As
+Beckler had no objection to remain at Menindie, Burke resolved to make his
+services available as far as possible, and left him there with a section
+of the party in charge of the heavier stores, while he himself pushed on
+towards Cooper's Creek under the guidance of Mr. Wright. The division of
+the party did not in any way retard or imperil Burke's arrival at Cooper's
+Creek; and he seems to have looked forward to the union of all his forces
+at that place before he proceeded further. As soon as he was convinced
+that Wright was worthy of confidence, he appointed him third officer of
+the expedition, and sent him back to bring the remainder of the party to
+Cooper's Creek without delay, at the same time accepting Beckler's
+resignation, and relieving him from any further charge. We cannot
+therefore see that the division of the party at Menindie was directly
+productive of any evil consequences, nor would any harm have resulted from
+it, but for Wright's flagrant neglect of the instructions of his chief. In
+the next place, the report pronounces that 'it was an error of judgment on
+the part of Mr. Burke to appoint Mr. Wright to an important command in the
+expedition, without a previous personal knowledge of him.' On this point
+we think there is good ground for the censure of the Commission. That
+Burke was, as it were, driven into a corner by the resignation of Landells
+and Beckler is quite true; but it is difficult to imagine that he should
+not have been able (supposing him to possess any insight into character at
+all) to detect, during the time that he and Wright were together, some
+indication of the gross incompetence which the latter subsequently
+displayed. Mr. Jackson endeavours to shift the blame from Mr. Burke's
+shoulders to those of the Exploration Committee, by observing that the
+Committee knew of Wright's appointment by Dec. 3, and so had plenty of
+time, if they had had any objection to him, to replace him by some one
+else. What objection could the Committee possibly have to a man whose name
+they had never heard before that moment? Clearly they are not to blame for
+relying upon the judgment of the leader whom they had selected, and
+confirming his appointment of a man who he assured them 'was well
+qualified for the post, and bore the very highest character.' Whatever
+blame may attach to the selection of Mr. Wright for a post of trust must
+rest entirely upon Mr. Burke. The Commissioners next proceed to blame Mr.
+Burke for finally departing from Cooper's Creek before the arrival of the
+dépôt party from Menindie, and for undertaking so extended a journey with
+an insufficient supply of provisions. On both these points there is
+something to be said in Mr. Burke's favour. As regards the first, his
+conduct was the natural result of his misplaced confidence in Wright,
+combined with the consideration that the success of his journey depended
+in great measure upon the rapidity with which it was prosecuted. With
+respect to the second, we must remember that on an expedition of this
+kind, when the carrying power is limited, and every ounce of weight has to
+be considered, it is almost as important to exclude everything that is
+superfluous as it is to leave behind nothing that is strictly necessary.
+It seems probable, however, that Mr. Burke was guilty of an error in
+judgment, in underrating the time which the journey from Cooper's Creek to
+Carpentaria was likely to require. Finally, the Commissioners draw
+attention to the fact that it does not appear that Burke kept any regular
+journal, or that he gave written instructions to his officers. 'Had he,'
+they observe on this point--and we fully concur in their
+remark--'performed these essential portions of the duties of a leader,
+many of the calamities of the expedition might have been averted, and
+little or no room would have been left for doubt in judging of the conduct
+of those subordinates, who pleaded unsatisfactory and contradictory verbal
+orders and statements.'
+
+"We are unable, the reader will perceive, to concur in Mr. Jackson's
+repeatedly expressed opinion, that there are no grounds whatever for any
+of the censures which the Commissioners found it their duty to pronounce
+on some points connected with Mr. Burke's management of the expedition.
+The fact is, that after a careful consideration of all the circumstances
+of the case, we incline to the conclusion that Mr. Burke did not possess
+the qualifications necessary for the successful leadership of such an
+enterprise; and that, consequently, some blame must rest with the
+Exploration Committee, who selected a comparatively unfit person for a
+position of such responsibility and importance. We appreciate and admire,
+as enthusiastically as Mr. Jackson himself can possibly do, the courage
+and self-devotion displayed by Mr. Burke; but we cannot forget that
+gallantry and daring are not the only qualities required in the leader of
+an exploring expedition through an unknown and difficult country. The
+choice of the Committee was, we believe, mainly dictated by the
+consideration that Mr. Burke had, while employed in the police-force of
+the colony, shown himself to be possessed of a considerable talent for
+organization, and of no little aptitude for command. They appear not to
+have attached sufficient importance to the not less material fact, that he
+knew nothing of bush-travelling, and had no practical experience of the
+preparations and precautions necessary for the successful prosecution of
+such a journey as that with which he was entrusted. Mr. Jackson calls upon
+us to observe that it was to the _rapidity_ of Mr. Burke's progress that
+his ultimate success is due; and the observation is, to a great extent,
+justified by facts. It appears to us, however, that most, if not all, of
+the errors of judgment of which he was guilty, during the progress of the
+expedition, are directly traceable to the same quality of mind which
+rendered him so prompt in action. The Commissioners hit the blot in his
+character when they pronounced that 'his zeal was greater than his
+prudence.' The examination of his proceedings which we have already made
+affords, we think, ample grounds for this conclusion. We have, however,
+met with one passage in the records of the expedition which exhibits Mr.
+Burke's constitutional hastiness of temper and want of judgment in so
+strong a light, that we cannot refrain from placing it before the reader.
+It occurs in King's narrative of the attempt made by himself, Burke, and
+Wills, to reach the settled districts of South Australia, after they had
+found the dépôt at Cooper's Creek deserted. Mr. Wills had gone back to the
+dépôt, and Burke and King were awaiting his return. King proceeds as
+follows:--
+
+"'A few days after Mr. Wills left, some natives came down to the creek to
+fish at some water-holes near our camp. They were civil to us at first,
+and offered us some fish; on the second day they came again to fish, and
+Mr. Burke took down two bags, which they filled for him; on the third day
+they gave us one bag of fish, and afterwards all came to our camp. We used
+to keep our ammunition and other articles in one gunyah, and all three of
+us lived together in another. One of the natives took an oil-cloth out of
+this gunyah; and Mr. Burke, seeing him run away with it, followed him with
+his revolver, and fired over his head, and upon this the native dropped
+the oil-cloth. While he was away, the other blacks invited me away to a
+water-hole to eat fish, but I declined to do so, as Mr. Burke was away,
+and a number of natives were about who would have taken all our things.
+When I refused, one took his boomerang and laid it over my shoulder, and
+then told me by signs that if I called out for Mr. Burke, as I was doing,
+that he would strike me. Upon this, I got them all in front of the gunyah,
+and fired a revolver over their heads; but they did not seem at all
+afraid, until I got out the gun, when they all ran away. Mr. Burke,
+hearing the report, came back, and we saw no more of them until late that
+night, when they came with some cooked fish, and called out, "White
+fellow." Mr. Burke then went out with his revolver, and found a whole
+tribe coming down, all painted, and with fish in small nets carried by two
+men. Mr. Burke went to meet them, and they wished to surround him; but he
+knocked as many of the nets of fish out of their hands as he could, and
+shouted out to me to fire. I did so, and they ran off. We collected about
+five small nets of cooked fish. The reason he would not accept the fish
+from them was, that he was afraid of being too friendly, lest they should
+be always at our camp. We then lived on fish until Mr. Wills returned.'
+
+"This method of dealing with the natives was surely, to say the least of
+it, exceedingly injudicious. They had, it appears, always shown themselves
+friendly to the explorers; and, in the weak state of the party, it was
+little short of madness to run the risk of disturbing the friendly
+relations between them and the blacks by any act of violence. And yet we
+find Mr. Burke actually attacking them, and taking forcibly from them the
+food which they had always shown themselves ready to give; and for no
+better reason than that 'he was afraid of their being too friendly, lest
+they should be always at the camp.' Not many days later Mr. Burke died
+while making a last attempt to rejoin those very natives whom he had
+driven away. It is scarcely possible to avoid the conclusion that Mr.
+Burke's judgment must have been materially weakened by the sufferings and
+privations he had undergone, before he could possibly have acted in so
+utterly unaccountable a manner.
+
+"We must now say a few words as to the route taken by Mr. Burke on his
+journey from Cooper's Creek to Carpentaria, and the nature of the country
+through which he passed. His first idea after reaching the Creek was to
+proceed due north, and four tentative expeditions were made in that
+direction, one of which was pushed to a distance of ninety miles. Finding,
+however, that the ground was too rough, either for horses or camels, he
+finally resolved to proceed in a north-westerly direction as far as Eyre's
+Creek, and at that point turned northward, and crossed the continent by a
+route which lies mainly on or about the 140th meridian of east longitude.
+The country does not appear to be difficult to traverse; and Mr. Wills
+tells us that the worst travelling-ground they met with was between Bullo
+and Cooper's Creek. As regards the nature of the land, Mr. Burke briefly
+sums it up in the following words: 'There is some good country between
+this (Cooper's Creek) and the Stony Desert. From thence to the tropics the
+country is dry and stony. Between the tropics and Carpentaria a
+considerable portion is rangy, but is well watered and richly grassed.'
+Mr. Wills reports that 'as to pasture, it is only the actually stony
+ground that is bare, and many a sheep-run is, in fact, worse grazing than
+that.' As regards the supply of water, it appears that the expedition,
+except when actually crossing the desert, never passed a day in which they
+did not traverse the banks of, or cross, a creek or other water-course.
+The whole country appears, in short, to be admirably adapted for pastoral
+purposes, and its discovery cannot but add largely to the resources of the
+Australian colonies. Sir Henry Barkly, the Governor of Victoria, in a
+despatch to the Duke of Newcastle, states that the occupation of "Burke's
+Land" with stock is already seriously contemplated by the squatters, and
+that there seems little reason to doubt that in the course of a few years
+the journey from Melbourne to Carpentaria will be performed with
+comparative facility by passing from station to station. He adds that
+much of the country traversed by the expedition between the Darling and
+Cooper's Creek is already taken up, so that both sheep and cattle are now
+depastured within 25 miles of Bullo, stretching thence easterly along the
+Queensland boundary in an almost unbroken chain. These anticipations are
+fully confirmed by the report of Mr. Landsborough, the Queensland
+explorer. This gentleman, who has crossed the continent from Carpentaria
+to Melbourne, gives the most favourable account of the pastoral
+capabilities of the country which he traversed, and does not hesitate to
+express an opinion that within twelve months the whole of it will be taken
+up by settlers. We need not therefore hesitate to conclude, with Sir Henry
+Barkly, that 'the results attained by the expedition are of the very
+highest importance, both to geographical science and to the progress of
+civilization in Australia.'"
+
+
+
+
+                       APPENDIX II. (p. 131.)
+
+    _The following pathetic address, recently transmitted by H.E.
+    Sir George Grey to the Duke of Newcastle, H. M. Secretary of
+    State for the Colonies, for presentation to Her Majesty under
+    her recent bereavement, also attests the deeply poetic vein that
+    marks the Maori character._
+
+
+Oh Victoria, our Mother!--We greet you! You, who are all that now remains
+to recall to our recollection Albert, the Prince Consort, who can never
+again be gazed upon by the people.
+
+We, your Maori children, are now sighing in sorrow together with you, even
+with a sorrow like to yours. All we can now do is to weep together with
+you. Oh, our good mother, who hast nourished us, your ignorant children of
+this island, even to this day!
+
+We have just heard the crash of the huge-headed forest tree which has
+untimely fallen, ere it had attained its full growth of greatness.
+
+Oh, good lady, pray look with favour on our love. Although we may have
+been perverse children, we have ever loved you.
+
+This is our lament.
+
+    Great is the pain which preys on me for the loss of my beloved.
+    Ah, you will now lie buried among the other departed kings.
+    They will leave you with the other departed heroes of the land.
+    With the dead of the tribes of the multitude of 'Ti Mani.
+    Go fearless then, O Pango, my beloved, in the path of death; for no
+        evil slanders can follow you.
+    Oh my very heart! Thou didst shelter me from the sorrows and
+        ills of life.
+    Oh my pet bird, whose sweet voice welcomed my glad guests!
+    Oh my noble pet bird, caught in the forests of Rapaura!
+    Let, then, the body of my beloved be covered with royal purple robes!
+    Let it be covered with all-rare robes!
+    The great Rewa, my beloved, shall himself bind these round thee.
+    And my ear-ring of precious jasper shall be hung in thy ear.
+    For, oh! my most precious jewel, thou art now lost to me.
+    Yes, thou, the pillar that didst support my palace, hast been borne to
+        the skies.
+    Oh, my beloved! you used to stand in the very prow of the war-canoe,
+    inciting all others to noble deeds. Yes, in thy life-time thou wast
+        great.
+    And now thou hast departed to the place where even all the mighty must
+        at last go.
+    Where, O physicians, was the power of your remedies?
+    What, O priests, availed your prayers!
+    For I have lost my love; no more can he re-visit this world.
+
+
+
+
+                       APPENDIX III. (p. 172.)
+
+    COPY OF OFFICIAL LETTERS OF H.E. COL. SIR T. GORE BROWN,
+    GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND TO COMMODORE VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,
+    COMMANDER OF THE NOVARA EXPEDITION.
+
+
+                                  I.
+
+        _Government House, Auckland, New Zealand, January 4th, 1859._
+
+Sir,
+
+I do myself the honour to express to you the gratification which the visit
+of His Imperial Majesty's frigate _Novara_ has afforded to the inhabitants
+of Auckland and to myself.
+
+I beg also to convey to you and to the officers of the scientific
+department of your Expedition my best thanks for the valuable information
+supplied by the investigations of these gentlemen.
+
+It will be my agreeable duty to report to her Majesty's Government on the
+subject, and I am satisfied that her Majesty will receive the
+communication with pleasure, and will recognize the importance of the
+services rendered to one of her Dependencies.
+
+Wishing you a prosperous voyage, and success in the interesting objects of
+your pursuit, I beg to subscribe myself,
+
+                         Your faithful servant,
+
+                            THOMAS GORE BROWN, Col. H.M.S.,
+                                 Governor of New Zealand.
+
+
+                                 II.
+
+       _Government House, Auckland, New Zealand, January 5th, 1859._
+
+Sir,
+
+Having already endeavoured to express my thanks to yourself and the
+officers of the scientific department of your Expedition for the valuable
+aid afforded to the Colony, I now venture to ask you to confer a still
+greater favour, by giving permission to Dr. Hochstetter to extend his
+researches for a few months longer.
+
+In the event of your granting this permission, the means necessary to
+enable him to explore effectually will be provided at the expense of the
+Colony of New Zealand.
+
+I feel less diffidence in making this request to you, as Representative of
+the Imperial Government, because Dr. Hochstetter's labours in this Colony
+may be made the means of furthering the objects, which his Imperial
+Majesty the Emperor of Austria had in view, when he despatched the
+Expedition under your command.
+
+I beg to add, that, should you feel it compatible with your duty to accede
+to the application I have now the honour to make, every assistance shall
+be afforded to Dr. Hochstetter, whilst engaged in this Colony, to enable
+him to make his scientific researches as valuable as possible to the
+Expedition of which he will remain a member, and care shall be taken to
+facilitate his return to Europe at the expense of this Colony by such
+route as he shall prefer.
+
+                          I have the honour to be, Sir,
+
+                              Your most faithful servant,
+                               Thomas Gore Brown, Col. H.M.S.,
+                                   Governor of New Zealand.
+
+
+
+
+                       APPENDIX IV. (p. 172.)
+
+            REPLY OF COMMODORE B. V. WULLERSTORF-URBAIR.
+
+
+                     _On Board H.I.R.M. Frigate Novara, Auckland Harbour,
+                                                       January 5th, 1859._
+
+Sir,
+
+In reply to your official note, dated Government House, Auckland, January
+5th, a. c. in which, as the Representative of the Imperial Government, you
+prefer the request, that I would give Dr. Hochstetter permission to extend
+his geological researches in this Colony for a few months longer, I am
+most happy to accede to your application, and to give Dr. Hochstetter, in
+his capacity as geologist of the Imperial Expedition, leave for that
+purpose, under the following conditions, which are nearly the same as
+those stated in your kind note:----
+
+1. That Dr. Hochstetter's sojourn in New Zealand may not exceed six
+months, and thus enable him to return to Europe nearly at the same period
+as the I.R. frigate is most likely to arrive there, namely, in November or
+December next.
+
+2. That the _Novara_ Expedition, of which Dr. Hochstetter still remains a
+member, may likewise enjoy the benefit of the observations, collections,
+and publications made by Dr. Hochstetter during his stay in New Zealand.
+
+3. That the means necessary to enable Dr. Hochstetter to explore the
+country effectually shall be provided at the expense of the Government of
+New Zealand; that every assistance shall be afforded to this gentleman
+whilst engaged in these geological explorations, and that care shall be
+taken to facilitate his return to Europe (viz. Trieste), at the expense of
+the Government of New Zealand, by such route as he shall prefer.
+
+Upon this understanding I shall not only consider it compatible with my
+duty to accede to your Excellency's application, and give Dr. Hochstetter
+permission to remain for the time stated in the Province of Auckland, but
+shall also feel quite certain, that the Imperial Austrian Government, as
+well as the Academy of Sciences whose delegate Dr. Hochstetter must be
+considered, will be highly gratified to learn that it was in the power of
+the first Austrian Exploring Expedition to become serviceable to a nation
+which has done so much for the advancement of science and the development
+of natural resources in almost all parts of the world.
+
+With hope that the friendly arrangement thus entered into on this subject
+may create a lasting bond of union and communications between the
+scientific men of both countries,
+
+                                           I have the honour to subscribe,
+
+                                              Your faithful servant,
+
+                                                B. V. WULLERSTORF.
+
+
+
+
+                         APPENDIX V. (p. 188.)
+
+      ADDRESS OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND, NEW
+                ZEALAND, TO THE GEOLOGIST OF THE NOVARA.
+
+
+Dr. Hochstetter,
+
+On the conclusion of your Geological Examination of a large and most
+interesting portion of this province of New Zealand, we--the assembled
+inhabitants of Auckland, representing every section of the community, and
+for the most part intimately connected with the Agriculture and Commerce
+of the province--desire to express our admiration of the eminently
+scientific manner and unwearied activity with which you have conducted
+your researches into the Geological Formations and Mineral Resources of
+Auckland. We have also to thank you for the valuable information upon
+these objects, which you have already placed in our possession in the
+public lecture delivered by you in this hall on the 24th of June, and in
+the reports you have forwarded to the General and Provincial Governments.
+
+The report of a member of the _Novara_ Expedition, on the physical
+characteristics of this portion of New Zealand--of which so little has
+hitherto been known--will be acknowledged in Europe as both impartial and
+authentic.
+
+To us, as a community, the information contained in that report and the
+maps you have constructed, together with those additional details we hope
+to receive from you after your return to Europe, will be of essential
+service in a material point of view. We also desire to convey to you our
+sense of the impartiality of your reports, which, whilst they lay open to
+our view those resources of the country that will eventually aid to its
+wealth and its general prosperity, in no way exaggerate their value or
+tend to lead to extravagant ideas or speculations that might only result
+in disappointment.
+
+Arriving in Auckland a stranger, upon whose sympathies we had no claim,
+you have exerted all your energies to condense the results of your
+scientific exploration into practical forms, for the benefit of the people
+of the foreign country you visited for purely scientific purposes, or for
+the special advantage of your own country.
+
+On all these accounts we feel that our warmest thanks are due to you for
+your disinterested exertions for the promotion of our welfare. As an
+enduring testimony thereof, we request the acceptance of this purse, the
+contents of which we beg you will devote to the purchase of some piece of
+plate that we trust may be regarded by your family and your countrymen,
+not only as a tribute of respect to your varied talents, but as a
+well-merited memento of the grateful acknowledgment by the people of the
+province of Auckland of the eminent scientific and practical services
+rendered to them by you.
+
+We are desirous that the plate should bear the following inscription:
+
+"Presented to Dr. Hochstetter, Geologist attached to the Imperial Royal
+Austrian Scientific Expedition in the frigate _Novara_, by the inhabitants
+of the Province of Auckland, New Zealand, in testimony of the eminent
+services rendered to them by his researches into the Mineral and
+Agricultural resources of the Province."
+
+                                      Signed on behalf of the subscribers,
+
+             R. MOULD,                               JOHN WILLIAMSON,
+             Colonel, commanding Royal Engineers,    Superintendent,
+             Chairman of Committee.                  Province of Auckland.
+
+_Auckland, 24th July, 1857._
+
+
+
+
+                       APPENDIX VI. (p. 193.)
+
+    ADDRESS OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE CITY AND PROVINCE OF NELSON TO
+    THE GEOLOGIST OF THE NOVARA.
+
+
+Dr. Hochstetter,
+
+Before your departure from among us, we, the inhabitants of the Province
+and City of Nelson, beg to express to you our great obligations for the
+benefits which you have conferred upon us as a community.
+
+Though we cannot but congratulate you upon your approaching return to your
+country and your family, we have strong personal reasons for looking upon
+it with regret. We feel that it has been no light or trifling advantage to
+have had among us one of that small class of men who conduct the great
+national expeditions by which the benefits of science are distributed over
+the world.
+
+We know that such an one comes invested with the highest possible
+authority to speak decidedly on the subjects of his investigations, and
+are sure that we may place the most implicit confidence in his statements.
+It is the great characteristic of such scientific pursuits as you are
+engaged in, that though on the one hand they are joined to the deepest and
+inmost principles of nature, on the other they are linked to the daily
+wants and commonest necessities of life. We believe therefore that your
+visit here will not be barren of practical results. We believe that it
+will give us both a desire to develope, as far as possible, our share of
+the gifts of nature, and a knowledge how we may best do this.
+
+We know that we have had no special claims on you for the interest you
+have taken in our welfare. The advantages which we have derived from it
+are, however, of such a kind that both those who give and those who
+receive may be proud of. We have had many opportunities of noticing how
+earnestly you pursue knowledge for its own sake, and are glad to find that
+those who do so are the most ready to employ for the benefit of others
+what they have acquired themselves. You have done this in our case with
+considerable personal exertion and discomfort, which have been cheerfully
+encountered by your diligence and activity.
+
+We do not wish to do more than allude to considerations of a personal
+kind. But we must express our appreciation of your courteous and kind
+behaviour towards us, and assure you that few men could have been among us
+for so short a time and have acquired so much of the character of a
+personal friend.
+
+We beg your acceptance of the accompanying Testimonial, the product of our
+Gold-fields, and we ask you to apply it to the purchase of a piece of
+plate, which may help to keep us in your remembrance, and on which we ask
+you to place the following inscription:--
+
+"Presented to Dr. Ferdinand Hochstetter, Geologist to the Imperial Royal
+Austrian Scientific Expedition in the frigate _Novara_, by the inhabitants
+of the Province of Nelson, New Zealand, as a record of their appreciation
+of the great benefits conferred upon them and the Colony by his frank
+communication of the results of his zealous and able researches into the
+geological character and mineral resources of the Province."
+
+We earnestly hope that all good may go with you on your return to Europe,
+and that after a pleasant and speedy voyage you may reach in safety your
+home and friends. And with this wish we bid you heartily "Farewell."
+
+                           Signed on behalf of the inhabitants of Nelson:
+
+                             J. P. ROBINSON,
+                                Superintendent of the Province of Nelson,
+                                  New Zealand.
+
+
+
+
+                             APPENDIX VII.
+
+
+NEW GRANADA has now taken the title of the United States of Colombia, as
+appears from the following document translated from the Spanish circular
+to the Diplomatic Officials and Consuls of the United States of Colombia.
+
+                  Secretary of State and Foreign Affairs.
+
+Sir,--
+
+In order that you may be exactly acquainted with the situation of the
+country, the undersigned Secretary of State, proposes to inform you every
+fortnight of the progress of the nation, setting forth fully and frankly
+all that has been done, neither misrepresenting nor omitting anything
+which, whether favourable or adverse to the new order of things in
+Colombia, may be worthy of your notice.
+
+You are not ignorant that since July 18, 1861, when the Federal Government
+came into power in Bogota, the States of Cauca, Antioquia, Santander, and
+Tolima have continued in the hands of the Centralists. You are not
+ignorant that the decrees of "Tincion and Desamortizacion" of effects in
+mortmain, put forth during the days which followed the 18th of July,
+provoked the most violent discontent on the part of the ultramontane
+clergy; and that these clergy, exchanging piety for gain, and setting
+aside all the Christian precepts of charity, renunciation of worldly
+goods, moderation, and submission to the powers that be, placed themselves
+in open rebellion, and endeavoured by every possible means to subvert the
+peace. Thus Romanism succeeded in raising in Santander an army of 3000
+men, in Tolima another of 1000, and in Boyacá and Cundinamarca several
+armed companies, one of which (that of Guasca) numbered upwards of 1000
+soldiers. The Government did not, nevertheless, concern itself much about
+this, because on its side were reason, opinion, and strength. Now, I am
+glad to tell you, that out of the nine States of the Colombian Union,
+seven enjoy an order and tranquillity as absolute as unchangeable. The
+heroic State of Santander, so maltreated by the Centralists during four
+years, does not contain on its soil one armed enemy, and its Government,
+diligent and efficient in peace as in war, is directing its attention to
+the re-establishment of commerce and the good exercise of its
+administration. The faction of Tolima, after having committed incalculable
+depredations and excesses, has been completely subdued. The parties
+fomented in Boyacá and Cundinamarca have been broken up; the only one
+which has hitherto been able to maintain a footing, although considerably
+diminished, that of Guasca, has been overcome during the last few days,
+its chief having been killed in battle. The only disturbed States are
+therefore now those of Cauca and Antioquia. Thus, then, considering that
+the seven States in which order and peace reign, Panama, Bolivar,
+Magdalena, Santander, Boyacá, Cundinamarca, and Tolima, are on the coast,
+in the north and centre; that is to say, the most important ones in a
+commercial, financial, and military point of view, because in them are
+principally found the ports through which our foreign commerce is carried
+on, the rich custom-houses, the salt mines, the navigable rivers, the most
+valuable riches, the most abundant agricultural produce, the sources of
+our exports, the great mass of the population, and the greatest amount of
+the national strength; it may very reasonably be concluded that Colombian
+order rests upon firm bases,--and considering, further, that in the two
+States still unquiet, the disturbers are reduced to very narrow limits,
+having no port through which to introduce the elements of war, no funds at
+their disposal to increase or maintain their present force;--that public
+opinion is generally against them, seeking all means of showing them
+hostility, of diminishing their army, and of closing to them all
+resources;--that they are closely threatened by a numerous, trained,
+enthusiastic army, in perfect discipline, and well supplied with
+provisions and ammunition;--that this army, part of which occupies the
+south of the valley of Cauca, another part the Andes of Quindio, and the
+other preparing at Mompos to penetrate, if necessary, into Antioquia,
+commanded by experienced generals, under the immediate direction of the
+President of the Union;--and lastly, that the insurgent troops will amount
+at most but to a third part of those sent against them by the Government;
+that they are in want both of provisions and arms, as also of able
+generals:--when all this is considered, I say, it must be concluded that
+ere long peace will be re-established in these two States as it has
+already been in the rest of Colombia. It is not without regret that the
+President is about to undertake military operations against the two
+disturbed States, for his most earnest desire has been to establish
+tranquillity by means of conciliation, without fighting. The conduct
+observed by him since the commencement of the civil war has been in
+keeping with this desire. Only to mention recent events, hardly was Bogota
+occupied in 1861, ere he addressed himself with this object in the most
+conciliating terms to the Governments of the insurgent States. That of
+Antioquia had not even the courtesy to answer him. A new and even more
+advantageous offer of peace, on the occasion of convoking the National
+Convention, has been made, proving the patriotic feeling of the President
+and the obduracy of the Centralists ruling in Antioquia. And it must be
+remembered that the leniency of the Government of the Union is so much the
+more praiseworthy, as it has been the Government of Antioquia which has
+brought upon Cauca the calamity which has now prostrated it. In fact,
+peace and law would have obtained there many months ago, but for a cruel
+faction supported and reinforced by the Antioquian Government, who renewed
+it when it was failing, supplied it with money and munitions, assisted it
+with military forces, and maintained anarchy and, not alarm, but terror,
+in the State of Cauca. But notwithstanding these weighty motives for
+inducing the Government of the Union to send its army against the State of
+Antioquia, yet with great magnanimity it has declared that it will only do
+so in the event of the Government of Antioquia not having agreed to
+submit to the Union by the 6th of August next, the day on which the
+national convention is to assemble at Cartajena. It is not indeed possible
+that this State should be allowed to remain separate from the Union,
+against the will of the Antioquian people, who do not join in the views of
+those now ruling them, nor is it to be endured that they should carry on
+against the other States and the Government of the Union a useless war,
+for no defined political object. The States that have not yet chosen their
+deputies for the Convention are now engaged in electing them. For the
+rest, although it may well be thought that after such a war as that
+through which we have passed the re-establishment of order and harmony in
+the different branches of public administration, as well in the States as
+in the Union, must be a long and anxious task, yet fortunately quite the
+contrary has taken place. Immediately after the battles in which the
+Federalists were successful society began to enjoy well-regulated civil
+and judicial administration, and consequently confidence, commerce,
+labour, social life, and striving for peace, were renewed with vigour. Our
+people is as much the friend of order and justice as of liberty and
+independence. To obey willingly it only desires from its governors
+honesty, activity, loyalty to institutions, patriotism, and respect for
+the ever moderate wishes of the country. The nation hates civil war, not
+alone from reason, but from instinct; it has not spontaneously sought the
+sad experience it has had of this terrible calamity; our strifes have not
+come from below; the incendiary torch fell from the seat of the chief
+Government. At least this is what has happened during the years just past.
+But this longing for durable peace, this dearly-bought experience, and
+this horror of civil war, joined to a moderate and firm love of liberty
+and a decided spirit of progress, will produce without doubt a
+constitution liberal, just, foreseeing, and clear, and for the future will
+excite the attention of the people to the election of their high
+officials. The President of the Union is in the country; his head-quarters
+are in no fixed place; until now he has been first in Piedras and then in
+Ambalema. A general secretary accompanies the President, for the despatch
+of administrative matters of a serious nature, or connected with the war,
+so that there may be no branch of government neglected, nor any subject of
+public interest which shall not be attended to as in ordinary times. This
+city, made nearly a year ago into a Federal district, has a governor and
+a sufficient number of alcaldes and other subalterns to maintain order and
+police. Besides the army which is moving upon Antioquia and Cauca, there
+has been raised and organized another of reserve, as strong as the former,
+and divided into three parts, which garrison the States of Santander,
+Boyacá, and Cundinamarca. The national engagements in matters of credit
+have engaged the attention of the Government in the most especial manner.
+No outlay, not even to satisfy the necessities of existence, does it
+prefer to fulfilling its obligations with foreign creditors. Also are
+religiously cancelled the obligations in favour of foreigners given by the
+disloyal Government of the extinct Granadine Confederation, for the sums
+taken to make war upon the States which have supported Federal
+institutions. Property belonging to foreigners is more efficiently
+protected than it appears ever to have been before. In fact, all that has
+relation to the faithful observance of public treaties, to the persons,
+properties, and rights of citizens, or subjects of other nations, is a
+subject of special solicitude to the Colombian Government, it being well
+persuaded that the civilization as well as the good of the country demand
+a faithful fulfilment of its foreign engagements, in order to raise the
+national credit, and to aggrandize, by the increase of knowledge, of
+wealth, and population, the modest country in which our lot has been cast.
+To conclude, a solid and general peace is approaching with quick steps,
+and I believe that I shall be able to announce it to you definitely,
+together with the notice of the commencement of the operation of the
+national Convention, within two months. Some material improvements have
+been undertaken; but the favourable moment of entire peace has not yet
+arrived to carry out all that the Government intends and desires to
+accomplish. In the "Rejistro Oficial" you will find all that has been done
+in these branches, and in favour of European immigration and the
+colonization of our waste lands.
+
+                                                   MANUEL ANCISAR.
+
+  _Bogota, June 5, 1862._
+
+
+                              FOOTNOTES:
+
+[158] The orthography of the above vocabulary is founded upon the ordinary
+rules for English pronunciation. The syllable on which the chief stress is
+laid is marked when necessary by an accent.
+
+[159] _Robert O'Hara Burke, and the Australian Exploring Expedition of
+1860._ By Andrew Jackson. London: Smith, Elder, and Co.
+
+
+
+
+                                INDEX.
+
+
+                                  A
+
+  Abáca, Manila Hemp, ii. 321-324
+
+  _Acacia Catechu_ (Terra Japonica), ii. 114
+
+  Adam's Peak, Ceylon, ascent of, i. 406-418
+
+  Adams, William, one of the mutineers of the _Bounty_, iii. 261-263
+
+  Address of the German Residents in Sydney to the commander of the
+      Expedition, iii. 53 (and Appendix)
+
+  Adiga River near Madras, i. 457
+
+  Agraharam, Imperial present to the Brahmins, i. 459
+
+  Agriculture, School of (_Quinta Normal_), at Santiago de Chile, iii. 300
+
+  Aichison, Mr., Missionary at Shanghai, ii. 460
+
+  Alameda, the new, at Lima, iii. 396
+
+  ---- the public promenade at Santiago de Chile, iii. 296
+
+  Albatross, the, i. 188
+
+  Alboran, Island of, i. 25
+
+  Algeziras, i. 40
+
+  Algoa Bay, i. 258
+
+  Alpaca, the, successful attempts to introduce into Australia, iii.
+      64-66; value in Peru and Bolivia, 65
+
+  Alwis, James de, his proficiency in Cingalese dialects, i. 396
+
+  Amancaes, Valley of, near Lima, iii. 396
+
+  Amaral, Dom Joâo Maria Ferreira do, Governor of Macao, assassination of,
+      ii. 403
+
+  American Missionary Society, its activity in China, ii. 460-465
+
+  Amphitheatre, Roman, at Pola, iii. 454
+
+  Amsterdam, Island of, in Indian Ocean, i. 323-335
+
+  _Ananassa Sativa_, ii. 167, 325
+
+  Aneroid Barometers, their usefulness under certain conditions, iii. 328
+
+  Angas, Geo. Fred., Esq., secretary of the Australian Museum, Sydney,
+      iii. 33
+
+  Anthropometry, how practised, ii. 127; iii. 122-126
+
+  Ant Islands, ii. 588
+
+  Apothecary's store in Shanghai, ii. 437-440
+
+  Appin, village of, near Sydney, iii. 26
+
+  Aquasie Boachie, son of an African chief resident in Java, his history,
+      ii. 206
+
+  Arcot, city of, i. 452
+
+  Areca palm, ii. 102
+
+  Arequipa (Peru), iii. 350
+
+  Arewarewa, a skin disease common in the Society Islands, iii. 247
+
+  Arica (harbour and village), iii. 345
+
+  Armegon, first British settlement on the Coromandel coast, i. 428
+
+  Arréois, the, a secret society formerly existing at Tahiti, iii. 219
+
+  Arrival in Trieste, iii. 455
+
+  Artillery barrack at Valparaiso, iii. 285
+
+  Ash Island (New South Wales), iii. 44
+
+  Aspinwall (Isthmus of Panama), description of, iii. 438
+
+  Assacú tree, the (_Hura Brasiliensis_), i. 135
+
+  Atmospheric currents, i. 183
+
+  Atolls, appearance of and how accounted for, ii. 588, 626
+
+  Auckland, harbour and city, described, iii. 96-99
+
+  Augustinian (or Barefoot) monks, convent at Manila, ii. 304
+
+  Australia, German emigrants in, iii. 6, 31-33
+
+  Australian club in Sydney, iii. 43
+
+  ---- farm, description of an, iii. 38, 41
+
+  Australische Zeitung, the German newspaper in Sydney, iii. 6
+
+  Avatars, the, or descents of Vishnu, i. 436
+
+  Ave Maria in Manila, the, ii. 347
+
+  Azores, Island of, iii. 336
+
+  Azoteas, or terraced roofs of Lima, iii. 366
+
+
+                                  B
+
+  Baines, Admiral, Commander-in-chief of H.M. Pacific squadron, iii. 323,
+      418
+
+  Baker, W., Esq., Government interpreter at Auckland, iii. 102
+
+  Balgonie Farm, near Sydney, iii. 36
+
+  Ball on board the _Novara_ in honour of the birth of an heir to the
+      throne of Austria, iii. 52-54; ball given by the Austrian Consul at
+      Valparaiso in honour of the Expedition, 321
+
+  Balsas, or rafts used along the west coast of South America, description
+      of, iii. 419
+
+  Bamboo paper (China), ii. 516
+
+  Bampoka, island of (Nicobar Group), ii. 43, 61
+
+  Bampton reef, ii. 626
+
+  Bandong, city in Java, ii. 235
+
+  Banyan tree, i. 357
+
+  Bargo, forest huts at, near Sydney, iii. 40; curious library in one of
+      the houses at, 42
+
+  Barometer, its lowest reading during the Typhoon in the China seas, ii.
+      545
+
+  Barrier Island, iii. 91
+
+  Basle Missionary Association in China, ii. 368
+
+  Basses or Baxos near Galle, i. 418
+
+  Batavia, description of, ii. 180-190
+
+  Batte-Malve, Island of, one of the Nicobar Group, ii. 42
+
+  Bay-Lake (Manila), ii. 288
+
+  Bell-bird of Australia, the, iii. 38
+
+  Bennett, Dr. George, Zoologist of Sydney, iii. 14
+
+  Beri-Beri, a Javanese malady, ii. 188
+
+  Bernstein, Dr., physician and naturalist, ii. 211
+
+  Betel-nut and fibre, ii. 73, 102, 144, 238, 260
+
+  Biche de Mar, or sea slug. _See_ Trepang.
+
+  Big Island. _See_ Sikayana.
+
+  Binondo, suburb of Manila, ii. 290
+
+  Birloche, the, a two-wheeled vehicle in use in Chile, iii. 294
+
+  Bleeker, Dr., Ichthyologist in Java, ii. 183
+
+  Bligh, Capt., commander of the _Bounty_, iii. 260; his fate, 261;
+      becomes Governor of the penal colony of Botany Bay, 75
+
+  Blodgett, Rev. Mr., Missionary at Shanghai, ii. 460
+
+  _Boehmeria nivea_, the Ramé-fibre, ii. 167, 205, 321-324
+
+  Bohea mountains of China, the, ii. 506
+
+  Bo-tree, the (_Ficus religiosa_), i. 357
+
+  Bolts, William, his attempt to colonize the Nicobars for Austria, ii.
+      6-10
+
+  Book-printing introduced into Tahiti, iii. 202
+
+  Boomerang, known to the ancient Egyptians, iii. 31
+
+  Borax, or Tincal, trade in, along the Peruvian coast, iii. 344
+
+  Botanical garden of Rio, i. 143; of Cape Town, 205; of Buitenzorg
+      (Java), ii. 205; of Sydney, iii. 20
+
+  Botanical riches of the Nicobars, ii. 101-103; of Java, 204-206; of
+      Sydney, iii. 19-21
+
+  Botany Bay, account of, iii. 18
+
+  Botany Tower, in Sydney, iii. 18
+
+  _Bounty_, abridged account of mutiny of the, and subsequent fate of the
+      mutineers and their descendants, iii. 261-276
+
+  Brahmaism, its tenets, i. 435-437
+
+  Brand Vley, hot-springs of (Cape Colony), i. 225-229
+
+  Brauns, William, Consul-general of Hamburg, at Lima, iii. 364
+
+  Brazil, importance of, as a field for German emigration, i. 132, 171
+
+  Bread-fruit tree found in the Nicobars, ii. 101; in Puynipet, 558, 567;
+      in Tahiti, iii. 243
+
+  "Brickfielder," unpleasant sensations in a, 111. 52
+
+  Bridgman, Dr., Missionary and Sinologue, ii. 460
+
+  _Bromelia ananas_. _See_ _Ananassa sativa_.
+
+  Brooke's deep-sea lead, mode of using and results, i. 112, 263
+
+  Brotherhood of the Heaven and Earth (secret society of the Chinese of
+      Singapore), ii. 147
+
+  Broughton's Pass in New South Wales, iii. 27
+
+  Browne, Col. T. Gore, Governor of New Zealand, iii. 136
+
+  Buddha, tooth of, i. 405
+
+  Buddhism, tenets and history of, i. 352-358
+
+  Buitenzorg (Java), excursion to, ii, 203-208
+
+  Bukit Timah, the, or mountain of tin at Singapore, ii. 143
+
+  "Bullock-bandy," Cingalese native conveyance, i. 417
+
+  Bungalow, description of one at Vellore, i. 452
+
+  "Burster," violence of, at New Zealand, iii. 141
+
+  Bush, the, of Australia, described, iii. 26, 30
+
+  Bushmen, or Bosjesmen, the, i. 203
+
+  Bush-rangers, depredations of the, iii. 76
+
+
+                                  C
+
+  Cabo Tormentoso, Storm Cape, now Cape of Good Hope, i. 192-195, 257
+
+  Caffres, i. 203
+
+  Cajamarquilla, ruins of, visited, iii. 385-388
+
+  Caldera, Chile, its appearance, iii. 340
+
+  Caledon, village of Cape Colony, visit to, i. 242
+
+  Callao, port of Lima, iii. 363
+
+  Caltura, Ceylon, curious rencontre at, i. 369, 397
+
+  Calzada, the, or public promenade of Manila, ii. 310
+
+  Camden Park, Sydney, visit to, iii. 20-23
+
+  Camoens, grotto of, at Macao, ii. 394
+
+  Camote, the, or sweet potato, ii. 102
+
+  Campamiento (Gibraltar), i. 39
+
+  Campbell, Mr., of Tacna (Peru), curious statistics furnished by him of
+      the stimulating properties of coca leaves, iii. 404
+
+  Campbelton, New South Wales, excursion to, iii. 24
+
+  Campo Santo, or cemetery of Valparaiso, iii. 289
+
+  Canalization, extent to which carried in China, ii, 479
+
+  Cannibalism in Australia, iii. 33; in New Zealand, 108
+
+  Canoes of the natives of Puynipet described, ii. 552
+
+  Canton-English, peculiarities of, ii. 351, 364
+
+  Canton River, ascent of the, ii. 381
+
+  Canton, visit to, ii. 380-386
+
+  Cape Brett, New Zealand, iii. 91
+
+  Cape Horn, rounding of, iii. 325-328
+
+  Cape Pigeon, habits of the, i. 157-190
+
+  Cape San Augustin, i. 118
+
+  Carabus or Calaboose, the prison at Tahiti, iii. 238
+
+  Caret, Catholic missionary, his pertinacity at Tahiti, and its results,
+      iii. 204-206
+
+  Carlowitz, M. von, Prussian Consul at Macao, ii. 394
+
+  Carretas, or ox-carriages of Chile, iii. 296
+
+  Carron, Kennedy's companion in the explorations made by the latter in
+      Northern Australia, iii. 12
+
+  Carteret Island, ii. 595
+
+  Carthagena, port of, in New Granada, iii. 440
+
+  Casa Blanca, one of the oldest settlements in Chile, iii. 294
+
+  Cash, common copper currency of China, ii. 419
+
+  Castilla, Don Ramon de, president of Chile, interview with, iii. 303-306
+
+  Cathedral of Tong-Kadu near Shanghai, ii. 445, 478; of Lima, iii. 369
+
+  Cavite, the outport of Manila, ii. 280
+
+  Cayenne, French penal colony in, revelations concerning, iii. 252
+
+  Center, A. J., Esq., Director of the Isthmus of Panama railroad, his
+      kindness, iii. 438
+
+  Central Normal School of Lima, iii. 378
+
+  Cerro Alegre, Valparaiso, iii. 288
+
+  Cerro de Canetas, near Valparaiso, iii. 284
+
+  Ceuta, Spanish fort of, i. 27
+
+  Chagres, fever ravages of, iii. 439
+
+  Chala (Peru), harbour of, iii. 353
+
+  Chatham Island, iii. 95
+
+  Cheyne, Capt. Andrew, his charts of the West Pacific, remarks on
+      Puynipet, ii. 554; remarks on Simpson Island, 585-588, 592;
+      geographical information respecting Bradley Reef, 594; remarks on
+      the population of Sikayana, 613
+
+  Chicha, the, a Chilian drink, iii. 316
+
+  Chile, state of parties in, iii. 305
+
+  China Tree, cultivation of, in Java, ii. 227-233; in Bolivia and Peru,
+      iii. 413-417; points requiring to be elucidated, 409-412
+
+  Chincha Islands, deposits of Guano on, iii. 355-362; life upon the, 357
+
+  Chinese banquet, description of a, ii. 485-493
+
+  ---- Council Chamber, ii. 427
+
+  ---- dramatic representations, ii. 486
+
+  ---- eating-houses, ii. 429
+
+  ---- language and mode of writing, ii. 365
+
+  ---- reckoning board, and how it is used, ii. 170
+
+  ---- soothsayers, ii. 362
+
+  ---- tea-garden, ii. 430
+
+  Cholera at Madeira, i. 85-88; at Rio, 152; at Singapore, ii. 141, 151;
+      in China, 453
+
+  Chorillos, sea-side watering-place of the Limanos, iii. 389-391
+
+  Chronometers, their accuracy fully established, iii. 336
+
+  Church processions in Manila, ii. 345-347
+
+  Cigar manufactory at Manila, ii. 317-320
+
+  Cinchona, or Peruvian Bark. _See_ Fever-Bark.
+
+  Cingalese canoe, i. 417
+
+  Cinnamon, cultivation of, in Ceylon, statistics of, i. 373-377
+
+  Clarence River, in Australia, iii. 22; Stearine Candle Manufactory at,
+      iii. 22
+
+  Clarke, W. B., geologist, iii. 14
+
+  ----, Rev. H. F., virtually the first discoverer of Gold in Australia,
+      iii. 66, 67
+
+  Club, Australian, hospitalities of the, iii. 43
+
+  "Coachman's Whip," the (a bird peculiar to Australia), iii. 38
+
+  Cobija, Bolivia, harbour and prospects of, iii. 342
+
+  Cobra di Capello, found in Ceylon occasionally, i. 363, 401
+
+  Coca (or _Erythroxylon Coca_) of Peru, its remarkable properties, iii.
+      402-406;  chemical analysis of its leaves at Göttingen, 406-409
+
+  Cocain, the organic base of the Coca leaves, discovered at Göttingen,
+      iii. 407
+
+  _Coccus Pela_, the tree-wax insect of China, ii. 518
+
+  Cochineal, i. 82; plantations of, at Pondok Gedeh (Java), ii. 210
+
+  Cockatoo Island, Port Jackson, iii. 49
+
+  Cock-fighting in Manila, prevalence of, ii. 312
+
+  Cocoa-nut and palm, iii. 243
+
+  Coffee-culture in Ceylon, i. 377-379; in Java, ii. 242-244
+
+  Coggerah Bay, New South Wales, iii. 58
+
+  Colic, the dry or vegetal form of (Tahiti), iii. 260
+
+  Colonization of the Nicobar Archipelago, attempts at, ii. 1-15, 128-131
+
+  ----, French principles of, compared with those of England, iii. 250,
+      251
+
+  Comet of 1858, ii. 594
+
+  Comprador, a Chinese, described, ii. 360-362
+
+  Concordia, military association of (Batavia), ii. 268
+
+  Confucius, temple of, at Shanghai, ii. 433
+
+  Constantia wine, statistics of manufacture of, i. 255
+
+  Convict question considered, iii. 72-90; settlement at Singapore, ii.
+      164-168
+
+  Cook-river Bay, New South Wales, iii. 58
+
+  Cook's Straits, New Zealand, iii. 95
+
+  Coolie trade, its dimensions at Macao, ii. 397-401
+
+  Cooper, Sir Daniel, his country-seat, and hospitable reception by, iii.
+      16
+
+  Copiapó, Chile, copper and silver mines of, iii. 341, 342
+
+  Coquimbo, port of, iii. 340
+
+  Coral reef of Puynipet, ii. 556
+
+  Corregidor Island, Manila Bay, ii. 279
+
+  Coróborry, dance of the Australian aborigines, described, iii. 34
+
+  Cowries, mussel shells, used as currency, i. 394
+
+  Crocodiles in Madras, i. 449; in Manila, ii. 337
+
+  Cruera Patuóni, a New Zealand chief, his address to the members of the
+      Expedition, iii. 103
+
+  Cuba, statistics of tobacco culture in, ii. 320
+
+  Culture system adopted in Java, features of the, ii. 244-246
+
+  Curacavi, village in Chile, iii. 295
+
+  Curaré, the Indian poison, i. 138
+
+  _Curcuma longa_, ii. 562
+
+  Curry, its constituents, i. 368
+
+  Cuzent, Dr. G., valuable work on Tahiti by, iii. 215, 247
+
+  Cyclones, or hurricanes, speculations as to origin of, i. 183-185, ii.
+      547-549; description of one, 538-547
+
+
+                                  D
+
+  Dagga, Tascha or Takka, used by the Hottentots as a masticatory, i. 241
+
+  Dahata Wahansa (the Holy Tooth), Ceylon. _See_ Buddha's Tooth.
+
+  Dammara pine. _See_ Kauri pine.
+
+  Damper, unleavened bread used in the Australian Bush, iii. 38
+
+  Dana, his researches in New Zealand, iii. 181
+
+  Dances of savage races--Caffres, i. 209; Javanese, ii. 260-264;
+      inhabitants of Puynipet Island, 583; Australians, iii. 34; New
+      Zealanders, 101; Tahitians, 219; natives of New Caledonia, 221
+
+  Davis, John, an English sailor, abandoned on the island of Sikayana, his
+      account of the natives, ii. 608-610
+
+  Denison, Sir William, his reception, iii. 5, 14; his work on convict
+      discipline, 51; hospitable reception by, 55; opens Parliament of New
+      South Wales, 56
+
+  Diadem, the, a mountain peak of Tahiti, iii. 225
+
+  Dictionary, Maori, iii. 127
+
+  Dieffenbach, his geological researches in New Zealand, iii. 109, 127
+
+  Divers (pearl-) of Ceylon, i. 382-384
+
+  Dkinawasima, island of, ii. 547
+
+  Domeyko, Professor Ignacio, of Santiago, iii. 303
+
+  Dominican Monks of Manila, ii. 302
+
+  Dragon tree of Madeira, i. 59-64
+
+  Drury, district of in New Zealand, visit to, iii. 155; its coal-fields,
+      169-172
+
+  Dubash (an Indian factotum), his functions, i. 425
+
+  Duck-hunting in Manila, ii. 329-339
+
+  Du Petit-Thouars, captain of French frigate _Venus_, his oppression in
+      Tahiti, iii. 208
+
+
+                                  E
+
+  Earthquakes in Peru, iii. 362
+
+  Edible swallows' nests, ii. 235-237
+
+  Eimeo, one of the Society Islands, iii. 196, 241
+
+  _Elephantiasis græcorum_, its ravages in Brazil, i. 135; singular mode
+      of treatment for, 136
+
+  Elephants in Ceylon, i. 410, 411
+
+  Emigration of Chinese, ii. 397-400
+
+  Emu, the, description of, iii. 31, 34
+
+  Encouragement of learning in China, ii. 419
+
+  English colonies, their influence on the mother country, iii. 1-3
+
+  Evans, Lieut., U.S.A., director of the Chilean railway, iii. 308
+
+  ----, F., his chart of magnetic declinations, iii. 257
+
+  Expedition, Kennedy's, for traversing the continent of Australia,
+      tragical fate of, iii. 13
+
+  ----, table of, throughout the voyage, i. Appendix
+
+
+                                  F
+
+  Faáa, village of Tahiti, iii. 223; fête there, 230-235
+
+  Falkland Islands, passed on voyage home, iii. 329-330
+
+  Falmouth Harbour, arrival of author at, iii. 446
+
+  Faóle, one of the groups of Stuart's Islands, ii. 604, 607-609
+
+  Fare-rupe (_Pteris esculentum_) of Tahiti, iii. 245
+
+  Fata Morgana, appearance of, i. 49
+
+  Fauna of Island of St. Paul, i. 297
+
+  Fautáua, a hill-fort in Tahiti, iii. 227; waterfall of, iii. 226
+
+  Feejee Islands, iii. 89
+
+  Feet, artificial compression of women's, in China, ii. 372
+
+  Féi, or wild plantain, Tahiti, iii, 243
+
+  Fenton, F. D., his work on the origin of the Maori population of New
+      Zealand, iii. 138-140
+
+  Ferdinand Maximilian, Archduke, visits the _Novara_, iii. 452-455
+
+  Ferguson, Sir James, Governor of Gibraltar, i. 28, iii. 450
+
+  Fernando de Noronha, island of, i. 117
+
+  Fever-Bark, or Cinchona. _See_ China tree.
+
+  "Fiestas Reales," Manila, ii. 314
+
+  Fire, alarm of, on board, i. 420-422
+
+  Fire companies in Valparaiso, iii. 288
+
+  "Fire of the Gods," name of a New Zealand weapon, iii. 101
+
+  Fire on Island of Amsterdam, accidental, i. 332
+
+  _Ficus Indica_. _See_ Banyan tree.
+
+  ---- _Religiosa_. _See_ Bo-tree.
+
+  Fish, species of, at St. Paul Island, i. 316
+
+  Fitzroy Dry Dock, Cockatoo Island, Sydney, iii. 49
+
+  _Flata limbata_, or wax insect of China. See _Coccus pelah_.
+
+  Flemmich, J. F., Austrian Cons.-Gen. for Chile, iii. 279, 293, 321
+
+  Flora of Island of St. Paul, i. 312-315
+
+  Flying Fish, i. 110
+
+  ---- Fox (Pteropus), or Kalong Bat, ii. 234, 337
+
+  Fonseca, Friar Joachim, Manila, ii. 302
+
+  Foot-print of Buddha, Ceylon, i. 413-415
+
+  Fort St. George, Madras, i. 428, 474
+
+  Fortune, Rob., naturalist, ii. 508
+
+  Foundling and orphan children in China, statistics of, ii. 421-423
+
+  Foveau Straits, New Zealand, iii. 95
+
+  Franciscan monks, monastery of, at Manila, ii. 303
+
+  Frangerola, harbour of, in Spain, i. 47
+
+  French language compulsorily introduced into Tahiti, iii. 239, 240
+
+  ---- naval stations in Oceania, remarks on, iii. 248-253
+
+  ---- protection of Tahiti, its influence on commerce, iii. 248
+
+  Friedrich, Dr., philologist (Batavia), ii. 185
+
+  Friedrich's Islands (the Nicobars, which see)
+
+  Fukien, or Fo-Kien, province of China, ii. 371
+
+  Funchal, description of, i. 91-97
+
+  Funeral customs of Australian aborigines, iii. 32, 33; of Nicobar
+      Islands, ii. 31, 32
+
+  Fung-yun-san, one of the founders of the Tai-ping sect, ii. 530; his
+      marriage with "the Heavenly Sister," 530
+
+
+                                  G
+
+  Gadok, sanitary hill-station in Java, ii. 211
+
+  _Galatea_, Danish corvette, visit of, to the Nicobars, ii. 13.
+
+  Galatea River on the island of Great Nicobar, ii. 76
+
+  Gallinazos, or Turkey buzzards, at Lima, iii. 368
+
+  Gamelong, or alarm-drum of Java, ii. 260
+
+  Gamhi plantations, ii. 144, 239
+
+  Ganeza, Temple of, at Madras, i. 461
+
+  _Ganges_, H.M.S., courtesy shown by officers of, iii, 323
+
+  Garden Island, ii. 627
+
+  Garua, the, substitute for rain in Peru, iii. 351-366
+
+  Gaspar Straits, ii. 175, 177, 178
+
+  Gay, Claude, his work on Chile, iii. 297
+
+  Gecko, the (Ceylon), i. 360
+
+  Gedeh, volcano of, in Java, ii. 208, 218, 221
+
+  Genaadendal, Moravian colony of, i. 229-240
+
+  German Emigrants in Rio, i. 164-173; in Shanghai, ii. 494-496; in
+      Valparaiso, iii. 291, 316-318
+
+  Gibraltar, description of, i. 29-46; return to, iii. 448-450
+
+  Gilli-Mali, village of Ceylon, i. 407
+
+  Ginseng root, China, ii. 439
+
+  _Glossina morsitans._ _See_ Tsetse.
+
+  Goddess of the Sea (or Queen of Heaven), Temple to the, at Shanghai, ii.
+      428
+
+  Gold-fields of Australia, statistics of, iii. 66-70
+
+  Gower Island, ii. 595
+
+  _Graculus Indicus_, or Maina, at the Nicobars, ii. 75
+
+  Grass-cloth, manufacture of, ii. 325
+
+  Gravosa, arrival at, on return voyage, iii. 452
+
+  Great Nicobar, description of, ii. 72, 76-79
+
+  Green Indigo (Chinese green), ii. 370-378
+
+  Green stone, Nephrite, or Jade, weapons made from, iii. 118; history of
+      a large block of, 119
+
+  Gregory, his expedition in search of Dr. Leichhardt, iii. 11
+
+  Grey, Sir George, his works on the ancient Maories and their dialects,
+      iii. 126
+
+  Gros, Baron de, French Plenipotentiary in China, ii. 468-471; ludicrous
+      malady of, 471
+
+  Guadalcanar, one of the Solomon Group, ii. 624
+
+  Guam, or Guaham, Island, ii. 550
+
+  Guamul, the Chilean deer, iii. 299
+
+  Guano. _See_ Chincha Islands.
+
+  Guava, the (_Psidium Guava_), of Tahiti, iii. 223, 224
+
+  Guindy Park, Madras, children's fête in, i. 453-457
+
+  Gunpowder trade with New Zealand rebels, iii. 135
+
+  Gunyahs (Sandstone cavities), New South Wales, iii. 58
+
+  Gutzlaff Island, ii. 409
+
+
+                                  H
+
+  Haast, J., naturalist, accompanies the geologist of the Expedition into
+      the interior of New Zealand, iii. 155
+
+  Hakka dialect, in use in China, ii. 368
+
+  Hall of United Benevolence at Shanghai, ii. 426; of Council, Shanghai,
+      427
+
+  Hance, Dr., Botanist at Hong-kong, ii. 379
+
+  Hand-book in Chinese of Physiology and practical Surgery, ii. 454
+
+  Hangi-Maori, New Zealander's cooking oven, iii. 162
+
+  Hargraves, the practical discoverer of the Australian gold-fields, iii.
+      67
+
+  Harland, Dr., Hong-kong, ii. 379, 454
+
+  Hartmann, Madame, Buitenzorg, ii. 266
+
+  Haszkarl, Dr., Botanist, ii. 228, iii. 410
+
+  Hawaiki, Island of, supposed cradle of the New Zealand race, iii. 107
+
+  Hay, Capt. Drummond, in New Zealand, iii. 154, 167, 181
+
+  Heaphy, Charles, Chief Engineer, New Zealand, iii. 154
+
+  Hemeralopia, prevalence of, on board, i. 419
+
+  Herredia, Dr. Cajetano, of Lima, iii. 374
+
+  Herzl, Dr., of Santiago di Chile, iii. 308
+
+  Hill, Edward, Esq., of Sydney, his thorough acquaintance with native
+      language and customs, iii. 29; excursion with, to Wulongong, iii. 30
+
+  Hindoo Temple at Madras, visit to, i. 430
+
+  _Hippomane Mancinella_ (Poison tree), Central America, iii. 438
+
+  Hobson, Dr. B., of Shanghai, ii. 451-453
+
+  Hochstetter, Dr. Ferdinand, Geologist to the Expedition, abridged
+      narrative of his scientific tours in New Zealand, iii. 155-169,
+      177-194; addresses to. _See_ Appendix.
+
+  Hoei, or Tuité-Huy, Fraternity of Heaven and Earth (secret society of
+      Chinese), tenets of, ii. 195-199
+
+  Hogg, James, Hanseatic Consul, Shanghai, ii. 477, 494
+
+  Holothuria. _See_ Trepang.
+
+  Hong-kong, description of, ii. 355-364
+
+  Horse, first introduction of, into Tahiti, iii. 201
+
+  Hot-springs, Island of St. Paul, i. 280; of Brand Vley, i. 227
+
+  Hottentots, habits of, i. 209
+
+  "House of Big Words" (_Fare Aporáa_), the Parliament House at Papeete,
+      Tahiti, iii. 210-212
+
+  Howe, W., associate of the London Missionary Society in Papeete, iii.
+      214-216
+
+  Huanchaco harbour, Peru, iii. 418
+
+  Hui Haupapa, a New Zealand chief, oration of, iii. 104
+
+  Humboldt, Alex. von, his physical and geognostic memoranda, i.
+      (Introduction);  intelligence of his death, how received in South
+      America, iii. 423, 424
+
+  Humboldt's Current, iii. 278
+
+  Hung-Tsin-Tsuen, chief of the Tai-pings, ii. 523-526
+
+  Huraka Gulf, New Zealand, iii. 91
+
+  Hursthouse, his latest work on New Zealand, iii. 127
+
+  Hwa-táh, nine-storied Pagoda, near Canton, ii. 396
+
+  _Hyrax Capensis_, i. 242
+
+
+                                  I
+
+  Ice, statistics of trade at Ceylon, i. 373; at Valparaiso, iii. 302; at
+      Panama, 427, 428
+
+  Ichthyosis, prevalence of, among the natives of the island of Puynipet,
+      ii. 573
+
+  Illawara District, New South Wales, iii. 25-39
+
+  Infanticide in China, ii. 369-372
+
+  Iquique Harbour, Peru, iii. 342, 352
+
+  Isthmus of Panama, trade over, iii. 428-431; geographical and physical
+      features of, 434, 437
+
+  Iting, village in Peru, iii. 419
+
+  Itoe, village on Nangkauri (Nicobar), ii. 49-51
+
+  Iwi, demon of the Nicobars, ii. 70; an exorciser of, 69-71
+
+
+                                  J
+
+  Jacatra, ancient name of Batavia, ii. 181
+
+  Jade-stone, its value in China, ii. 363
+
+  Jansen, Florentin Tepano, Bishop of Axieri in Papeete, iii. 217
+
+  Java, excursions in, ii. 181-280
+
+  Jesuit mission of Sikkawéi, Shanghai, ii. 477-483
+
+  _Joseph and Theresa_, first Austrian ship to visit the Nicobars, ii. 10
+
+  Joss-paper, used in Chinese temples, ii. 432
+
+  Joss-sticks, ii. 341
+
+  Junghuhn, Dr. Franz, his career, ii. 230, 240, 252; desiderata of China
+      bark cultivation, iii. 409-412
+
+  Jungle-men of the Nicobar Islands, ii. 40
+
+  Junks, Chinese, ii. 352, 392, 413, 478
+
+  Jurujuba Cove, Bay of Rio de Janeiro, i. 158
+
+
+                                  K
+
+  Kalamander-wood, i. 395
+
+  Kalong Bat. _See_ Flying Fox.
+
+  Kamorta, Island of, Nicobar Group, ii. 55, 84, 86
+
+  Kampong, Chinese colonies in Java, ii. 195-197
+
+  Kane, Dr., of Macao, ii. 396
+
+  Kangaroo Hunting, in New South Wales, iii. 36, 37
+
+  Kar-Nicobar, Island of, i. 481, ii. 12, 14, 16-37
+
+  Karroo, the (Cape Colony), i. 231
+
+  Katschal, Island of, Nicobar Group, ii. 86
+
+  Kauri forest, a, in New Zealand, iii. 150
+
+  Kauri pine, iii. 151
+
+  Kawa beverage, its intoxicating properties, and how prepared in Tahiti,
+      iii. 245-247
+
+  Kawa plant (_Piper methysticum_), its properties, ii. 568, iii. 147, 245
+
+  Kawaïn, extract of Kawa, iii. 246-248
+
+  Keasberry, B. P., Missionary at Singapore, ii. 162
+
+  Keira Hills, New South Wales, iii. 37; coal-fields in, 39
+
+  Kennedy, E. B., his fatal exploring expedition to Cape York, Northern
+      Australia, iii. 12, 13
+
+  Kentsch, singular malady in Puynipet, ii. 574
+
+  Klings, natives of Coromandel coast, ii. 145, 149
+
+  Knight, Dr., Botanist, Auckland, iii. 141
+
+  Koek, M. de, Batavia, ii. 203
+
+  Koeping, one of the earliest visitors to the Nicobars, ii. 2
+
+  Kolowrat, mountain on the Island of Malaýta, ii. 596
+
+  Komios, village in Kar-Nicobar, ii. 38-41
+
+  Kondúl, Island of the Nicobars, ii. 69, 87
+
+  Krammat, mausoleum of a Malay prophet at the Cape, i. 244-248
+
+  Kratochwil, Joseph, physician in Panama, iii. 428
+
+  Krishna, the Hindoo Divinity, i. 436-460
+
+  Kulczycki, Adam, Director of native department at Papeete, iii. 214
+
+  Kumara (_Convolvulus Batata_), New Zealand, iii. 121
+
+  Kus-kus grass (_Andropogon muricatum_), i. 465
+
+
+                                  L
+
+  Labour, European and Chinese compared, ii. 148
+
+  Laguna de Bay, Manila, excursion to, ii. 325-341
+
+  Laguna Encantada, the enchanted Lake near Manila, ii. 335-338
+
+  Lalang grass (_Saccharum Koenigii_), ii. 51
+
+  Lambajeque, harbourage on coast of Peru, iii. 419
+
+  Lammat mountains, Solomon Islands, ii. 624
+
+  Lang, J. D., Sydney, his historical and political works and address to
+      Frankfort Congress, iii. 15
+
+  Lao-tse, Chinese sage, ii. 435
+
+  La Pérouse, monument to, at Botany Bay, iii. 17, 18
+
+  Las Esmeraldas, Hacienda in Chile, iii. 311-313
+
+  Lascars, Indian porters, i. 426
+
+  Laval, Catholic Missionary to Tahiti, iii. 204
+
+  Layard, C. P., Government agent in Ceylon, i. 396
+
+  Lazar village. _See_ Leper village.
+
+  Le Breton, Physician in Panama, iii. 428
+
+  Lee Harbour. _See_ Roankiddi Harbour.
+
+  Leeches, land-, of Ceylon, i. 407
+
+  Legabalu, Island of, ii. 1
+
+  Legaspi, conqueror of the Philippines, ii. 286, 287
+
+  Leichhardt, his tragical fate in Australia, iii. 12
+
+  Lemmas Canal, Hong-kong, ii. 353
+
+  _Leonitis Leonurus_, masticatory used by the Hottentots, i. 241
+
+  Leper village near Canton, ii. 457
+
+  Leprosy in China, ii. 455-459
+
+  Lima, account of, iii. 364-383
+
+  "Line," ceremony in "crossing the," i. 115-117
+
+  Little Hong-kong, small fishing village of, ii. 379
+
+  Little Nicobar, Island of, ii. 63, 81
+
+  Liu-tschiu (or Loo-choo) Islands, ii. 538, 543, 547
+
+  Llama, introduction of, into Australia, iii. 64-66
+
+  Lobschied, Dr. W., school inspector, Hong-kong, ii. 369, 379
+
+  Logan, Dr. Abraham, editor of "Singapore Free Press," ii. 161
+
+  ---- J. H., publisher of "Journal of Indian Archipelago," ii. 161
+
+  Lombok, embassy from the king of, ii. 199-202
+
+  London Missionary Society, ii. 451, iii. 200, 214-216
+
+  Long-Fah, Pagoda of, near Shanghai, ii. 484
+
+  Loo-Rock, lofty rock near Funchal, i. 57
+
+  Los Baños, village near Manila, ii. 332-335
+
+  Lossen, W., his experiments on the cocoa leaf, iii. 407
+
+  Lu Kao. _See_ Green Indigo.
+
+  Lunatic Asylum, Rio, i. 142; Manila, ii. 348; Lima, iii. 378
+
+  Lütke, Russian Admiral, ii. 552
+
+  Luzon, ii. 281-284
+
+
+                                  M
+
+  Macarthur, Sir William, New South Wales, iii. 20-25
+
+  Macartney, Lord, his embassy to China, 1792, i. 299
+
+  Macleay, botanist, New South Wales, his residence at Elizabeth Bay, iii.
+      16
+
+  Madras, i. 424-447
+
+  Mafoûmo river, on East coast of Africa, ii. 9
+
+  _Magdalena_, steamer, voyage home in, iii. 443-447
+
+  Magelhaen, discovers Manila, ii. 285; his fate, 310; Straits of,
+      settlement in, iii. 317; projected steam-tug line through, 317-320
+
+  Magnetic declination, zero point of, iii. 257-260, 279
+
+  ---- needle, variation of, iii. 257
+
+  Mahabharata, Indian poem of, i. 472-474
+
+  Mahamalaipur, City of the Holy Hill, monolith temples at, i. 464-474
+
+  Mahawanso, Cingalese epic poem, i. 395, 396
+
+  Mahishasura, the Indian giant, memorial of, i. 467
+
+  Maigrat, Catholic missionary to Tahiti, iii. 106
+
+  Maipú bridge, Chile, iii. 308
+
+  Makok, pagoda near Macao, ii. 395
+
+  Makun, St. Sebastian de, Catholic mission of, near Caltura, Ceylon, i.
+      369, 401
+
+  Malacca Straits, navigation in, ii. 132-135
+
+  Malaýta, Island of, Solomon group, ii. 596
+
+  Mamaku (_Cyathea Medullaris_), the tree-fern, specimens in New Zealand,
+      iii. 122
+
+  Mandioca flour (Brazil), i. 175
+
+  Mangatawhiri, river in New Zealand, iii. 164, 165
+
+  Mangrove forest at Puynipet, ii. 563
+
+  Mangrove swamps in the Nicobars, ii. 72
+
+  Manila hemp. _See_ Abáca.
+
+  Manila, stay at and description of, ii. 290-310, 342-349
+
+  Manluéna, or exerciser of evil spirits among the Nicobarians, quackery
+      of the, ii. 70
+
+  Manukau hills (New Zealand), excursion to the, iii. 150
+
+  Maoris, or Mauris, aboriginal inhabitants of New Zealand, speculations
+      on their past and future, iii. 97-110
+
+  Maori chiefs, reception of by the governor, iii. 136-138
+
+  ---- king, iii. 135
+
+  ---- meeting in Drury, iii. 136
+
+  ---- poetry, specimens of, iii. 129-132; proverbs, 127-129
+
+  Marine currents, i. 55-57
+
+  Mass meeting of natives of New Zealand, iii. 99-106
+
+  Matavai, native village in Tahiti, iii. 222
+
+  Maury, Commander, U.S.N., his sea-charts, i. 54, 107, 114
+
+  Meadows, J.A.T., government interpreter at Shanghai, ii. 473
+
+  Meal, imports into Brazil from Austria, i. 175
+
+  Medanos, wandering sand-hills in Peru, iii. 350
+
+  Medical school in Lima, iii. 374, 375
+
+  Meester Cornelis Bazaar, near Batavia, ii. 274
+
+  Megabalu, Island of, Nicobar group, ii. 1
+
+  Megamendoeng, pass of, in Java, ii. 211
+
+  Melepilla, town in Chile, iii. 311
+
+  Melori (_Pandanus_), bread of the Nicobarians, ii. 65
+
+  Menu, the Hindoo lawgiver, i. 435
+
+  Meridian of 180°, crossing the, iii. 194
+
+  Meri-Meri, New Zealand war-club, iii. 104
+
+  Meroe, island of, Nicobar group, ii. 82
+
+  _Merrimac_, U.S.N., iii, 417
+
+  Messina, return to, iii. 451
+
+  Metelenian, harbour of, in Puynipet island, ii. 553; aboriginal race on
+      Puynipet, 575
+
+  Miáu-Tze, a wild race in China, ii. 461
+
+  Miliani, Father, Catholic missionary in Ceylon, i. 370, 402
+
+  Military library in Manila, ii. 342; hospital in Batavia, 187
+
+  Milk, human, sold in China for vaccine, ii. 438 (note)
+
+  Missionaries, Protestant, in Puynipet Island, ii. 563;  Catholic and
+      Protestant, disputes of, in the Society group, iii. 200-205;
+      Catholic, their first appearance in Oceania, 204-209
+
+  Mitchell's Pass, New South Wales. _See_ Broughton's Pass.
+
+  Moa (_Palapteryx ingens_), gigantic extinct bird of New Zealand, iii.
+      191, 192
+
+  Moehrenhout, American consul at Papeete, religious partisanship of, iii.
+      205-207, 219
+
+  Moesta, Dr., astronomer of Santiago de Chile, iii. 300
+
+  Moko, or face-tattooing among the Maories, iii. 110-114
+
+  Monasteries in Lima, iii. 370-372
+
+  Monghata, hill of, in the Nicobar group, ii. 51
+
+  Montial, island of, one of the Nicobar group, ii. 68
+
+  Montigny, M. de, French consul at Shanghai, ii. 467, 512
+
+  Montt, Manuel, President of Chile, iii. 303-305; interview with, 304;
+      his position with respect to the ultramontane party, 305
+
+  Monuments of Chinese female philanthropists, ii. 446
+
+  Moore, Charles, Director of the Botanical Garden in Sydney, iii. 19
+
+  Mooyart, Government assistant in Colombo, i. 407
+
+  Moravian settlements (_see_ also Genaadendal) on Nicobars, ii. 94-96
+
+  Morea, Island of. _See_ Eimeo.
+
+  Moreton Bay, its capabilities for wool growing, iii. 47-49
+
+  Morok (_Casuarius Bennetti_), iii. 14 (note)
+
+  Morrok, bay of, Nicobar group, ii. 44
+
+  Mosse, village on Kar-Nicobar, i. 481
+
+  Motu-Uta, island in Papeete harbour (Tahiti), iii. 198
+
+  Mouat, Dr., of Calcutta, ii. 458
+
+  Mould, Col., chief of engineer corps, New Zealand, iii. 186
+
+  Mount Egmont, or Taranaki Mountain (New Zealand), iii. 189
+
+  Mozambique negroes in Brazil, i. 140, 235
+
+  Muirhead, W., English missionary in China, ii. 418, 452
+
+  Mulberry trees in China, ii. 499
+
+  _Musa textilis_ (wild banana), ii. 167, 324
+
+  Museum of natural history in Sydney, iii. 9; at Santiago de Chile, 301
+
+  Musical instruments of the Nicobarians, ii. 122
+
+
+                                  N
+
+  Nadaud, Dr., physician at Papeete (Tahiti), iii. 214
+
+  Nahlap Islands, near Puynipet Island, ii. 558-560
+
+  Nannekin, chief of Puynipet Island, visit to, ii. 570-573
+
+  National Library, Lima, iii. 375-377; Museum, Lima, 377, 378
+
+  Negro population of Brazil, i. 166
+
+  Negroes, the emancipation of, at St. Thomas successfully carried out,
+      iii. 442, 443
+
+  Negrillos or Negritos del Monte, Manila, ii. 293-295
+
+  Negro-head tobacco of America, ii. 575
+
+  Nelson, province of, in New Zealand, and geological researches therein,
+      iii. 188-192
+
+  Nephrite. _See_ Jade.
+
+  New Caledonia, proposition of Dr. J. D. Lang to found there a German
+      settlement, iii. 15; attempts of the French to annex same, 89, 250
+
+  New Plymouth, province of New Zealand, iii. 188
+
+  New year's eve at the Antipodes, iii. 166-168
+
+  New Zealanders. _See_ Maories.
+
+  Ngara, Lament for, specimen of New Zealand poetry, iii. 131
+
+  Nicobar archipelago, ii. 1-137
+
+  Niemann, Dr. Albert, his discovery of cocain, iii. 406
+
+  Nopal plantations. _See_ Cochineal.
+
+  Norfolk Island. _See_ _Bounty_, mutiny of.
+
+  North Cape, Australia, ii. 627
+
+  North China Herald, ii. 386, 496
+
+  "Norther," description of a, at Valparaiso, iii. 285, 286
+
+  Norzagaray, Don Fernando, Governor-General of the Philippines, ii. 307
+
+  Nót, an aboriginal race on Puynipet Island, ii. 575
+
+  _Novara_, her equipment, i. 4-9; at the dry-dock, Sydney, iii. 49;
+      festivities on board in honour of the birth of a crown prince,
+      51-54; return to Trieste, 455; retrospect of her career, 456-460
+
+  Nukahiwa, island of, Marquesas group, iii. 250
+
+  Nunneries in Shanghai for Chinese ladies, ii. 435, 436
+
+
+                                  O
+
+  Observatory at Santiago de Chile, iii. 299
+
+  Odd Fourth, game at cards, introduced by sailors among the natives of
+      Sikayana, ii. 602
+
+  _Oïdium Tuckeri_, Madeira, i. 78
+
+  Onehunga, village in Auckland province, iii. 97
+
+  Opium, how prepared, ii. 154-160; annual imports of, into China,
+      518-523; its cost in China, 523
+
+  ---- boats on the Wusung, ii. 411
+
+  ---- smokers, ii. 157-159, 274; number of, in China, 523
+
+  Opposition line between New York and California, iii. 426
+
+  Oraki, a Maori village, iii. 147-149
+
+  Oranges, exportations of, from Tahiti into California, iii. 240
+
+  Otahuha, village near Auckland, iii. 155
+
+  Overbeck, M. Gustav, Prussian Consul at Hong-kong, ii. 378
+
+  Owen, Captain, his visit to the Nicobars, ii. 3
+
+
+                                  P
+
+  Paarl, village of, Cape Colony, i. 219
+
+  Pachacamác, ruins of, iii. 390-395
+
+  Páh, a New Zealand native entrenchment, iii. 117, 155
+
+  Pakin Island, ii. 589
+
+  Pampero (storm from the pampas), i. 119
+
+  Panama, description of, iii. 424-429; "Star and Herald," 428; Railroad,
+      description of, 429-438
+
+  _Panax Ginseng._ _See_ Ginseng.
+
+  Pandanus tree, its exuberance on the Nicobar Islands, ii. 64, 101
+
+  Paomotu Islands, iii. 260
+
+  Paora Tahuera, New Zealand chief, address of, to the Expedition, iii.
+      102
+
+  Papakura, plains of, New Zealand, iii. 170
+
+  Papaoa, village in Tahiti, iii. 237
+
+  Papeete, capital of Tahiti, its position, iii. 197, 210; origin of name
+      and mode of spelling, 210-212; Tahitian orators at, 212-214; its
+      religious and social condition under the French Protectorate,
+      213-220; Governor's ball, 235-240
+
+  Paréu, a Tahitian native garment, iii. 221-231
+
+  Parkes, Harry, English Commissioner at Canton, ii. 385
+
+  Parliament at Tahiti, speeches in, iii. 212
+
+  Patterson, Mr. M., Principal of St. John's College, Auckland, iii. 152
+
+  Patuóni, New Zealand chief, iii. 102
+
+  Paul, St., Island of, described, i. 267-319
+
+  Payta, harbour of, Peru, iii. 420-422
+
+  Pearls, artificial, how made, i. 387, 388
+
+  Pearl-fishery of Ceylon, i. 379-388; of Panama, iii. 429
+
+  Pearl, mother-o', procured at Paomotu and Gambier Islands, iii. 240
+      (note)
+
+  Pedro-talla-galla, highest mountain in Ceylon, i. 412
+
+  Peh-lah, vegetable wax of China, ii. 518
+
+  Pekin, Treaty of Peace concluded at, ii. 388
+
+  Peluqueros, political party in Chile, iii. 306
+
+  Penguins, in St. Paul Island, ludicrous movements of, i. 281-284
+
+  Pettah, the, or Black quarter, Colombo, i. 372
+
+  Pfitzmaier, Dr., an eminent Sinologue, ii. 367, 418, 461; his
+      explanation of Chinese written character, 526
+
+  Philippi, Dr., Professor in College of Santiago, iii. 297
+
+  _Phormium tenax_, New Zealand flax, iii. 145
+
+  Phosphorescent glow in the sea, i. 26
+
+  Physical and geognostic memoranda. _See_ Humboldt.
+
+  Pia, the (_Tacca Pinnatifida_), Tahiti, iii. 244
+
+  Piaco, river, New Zealand, iii. 96
+
+  Pico Ruivo, Madeira, i. 102, 105
+
+  Pih-kwei, Tartar general, ii. 385
+
+  _Piper methysticum._ _See_ Kawa.
+
+  Pisco, town in Peru, iii. 354-357
+
+  Pissis, Aimé, geologist of Santiago, iii. 297
+
+  Pitcairn Island, History of. _See_ _Bounty_.
+
+  Pizarro, conqueror of Peru, his corpse exposed to view in the catacombs
+      of Lima, iii. 369;  his portrait in the National Museum, 378
+
+  Point de Galle, Ceylon, i. 359-361
+
+  Point Venus, Tahiti, iii. 222; revolving lighthouse on, 223
+
+  Pola, chief naval arsenal of Austria, iii. 454
+
+  Polyandria, prevalence of, in Ceylon, and cause, i. 365
+
+  Polygamy in China, ii. 371
+
+  Pomáre II., King of Tahiti, iii. 198; origin of name, 201; his remark on
+      first beholding a horse, 202
+
+  Pomáre, Queen, her letter to Louis Philippe, iii. 208; her civil list,
+      209; her residence, 210; rudeness of French authorities to, 236-238
+
+  Pomperos. _See_ Fire Companies.
+
+  Poncho, the native Chilean garb, iii. 294
+
+  _Porcelaine-craquelée_, ii. 440
+
+  _Porta Aurea_ at Pola, ruins of, iii. 454
+
+  Port Curtis, North Australia, gold-fields of, iii. 48; fate of the
+      gold-seekers there, 49
+
+  Port d'Islay, Peru, iii. 349, 350
+
+  Port Jackson (Sydney Harbour), ii. 627; first settlement there of
+      convicts, iii. 75
+
+  Potatáu, chief of the Waikato race, first king of the Maories, iii. 135
+
+  Praya Grande, promenade at Macao, ii. 405
+
+  Pré Catalan, pleasure gardens at Papeete, iii. 219-222, 235
+
+  Public Schools at Shanghai, ii. 443
+
+  Puka-puka, the New Zealand _papyrus_, iii. 147, 148
+
+  Pulicat-Lake, near Madras, i. 475
+
+  Punkah, its uses in India, i. 360
+
+  Purchas, A. G., pastor of Onehunga, iii. 155; first discoverer of the
+      Drury coal-beds, New Zealand, 169, 181
+
+  Puynipet, Island of, visit to, ii. 551-588
+
+
+                                  Q
+
+  Quebradas, caves near Valparaiso, iii. 282, 288
+
+  Quillota, Chile, favourite summer resort for the residents of
+      Valparaiso, iii. 314, 315
+
+  Quilpué, village in Chile, iii. 291; _fête champêtre_ there to the
+      Expedition, iii, 292
+
+
+                                  R
+
+  Radhen Adipati Aria Kusuma Ningrat, a Javanese "Regent," ii. 264
+
+  Radhen Adipati Wira Natu Kusuma, a Javanese "Regent," ii. 238, 252
+
+  Radhen Rangga Padma Negara, a Javanese Chief, ii. 214
+
+  Radhen Saleh, a Javanese Artist, ii. 269
+
+  Raffles, Sir T. Stamford, his services to Singapore, ii. 138-140
+
+  Ragusa, iii. 452
+
+  Railroads--Rio, i. 161; Madras, 447-453; Batavia, ii. 204; New South
+      Wales, iii. 20-43; Chile, 308-310; Isthmus of Panama, 429-438
+
+  Raimondi, Professor, at Lima, iii. 374
+
+  Rain-fall, annual amount of, in Gibraltar, i. 36; in Buitenzorg (Java),
+      ii. 208; at the Solomon group, 624
+
+  Rama, the Hindoo Divinity, i. 436
+
+  Rama-Rama, a settlement in the heart of the New Zealand forests, iii.
+      159
+
+  Ramé-fibre. See _Boehmeria nivea_.
+
+  Rancho, description of a, iii. 287, 389
+
+  Rangitakí. _See_ Wiremu Kingi.
+
+  Raorao (_Pteris Esculenta_), the New Zealand fern, iii. 121
+
+  Rasamala forest of Java (_Liquid Ambar Altingiana_), ii. 216
+
+  Ratnapoora, Ceylon, i. 406
+
+  Reed, Mr., Minister, plenipotentiary of United States to China, ii. 466
+
+  Réi, settlement on Puynipet Island, ii. 561
+
+  Rerehau-Hemara, of Ngatiapakura, in New Zealand, enters as a seaman on
+      board the _Novara_, iii. 175
+
+  Retrospect of the results of the voyage, iii. 456-460
+
+  Rewarewa, head-dress of Maori woman, iii. 220
+
+  Rhanganatha Swami, Rock Temple, near Madras, i. 466
+
+  Rice-paper in China, ii. 363, 364
+
+  "Rickety Dick," last survivor of the Port Jackson aborigines, iii. 17
+
+  Ried, Dr. Aquinas, Valparaiso, iii. 293
+
+  Rüse, A., Pharmaceutist and Zoologist at St. Thomas, iii. 442
+
+  Roankiddi Harbour, in Puynipet Island, ii. 561
+
+  ---- race, manners and customs of, ii. 570-575
+
+  ---- river on Puynipet Island, ii. 563
+
+  Roberts, J. C., Protestant missionary, and present (late) foreign
+      minister of the Tai-Ping rebels, ii. 528-532
+
+  Robertson, Mr. Brook, English Consul, Shanghai, ii. 472
+
+  Robinson, J. P., Superintendent of Nelson Province, New Zealand, iii.
+      189
+
+  _Roccella tinctoria_, i. 75
+
+  Rochleder, Prof., of Prague, his instructions with reference to
+      investigating the geographical distribution of plants, iii. 20
+
+  Rochouse, Etienne, priest of the Society of Picpus, iii. 203
+
+  Rosen, Pastor, missionary at the Nicobars, his residence at, ii. 12, 51,
+      74
+
+
+                                  S
+
+  Saddle Islands, Chinese Sea, ii. 409
+
+  Sago palm, the, ii. 153
+
+  Saisset, M., Governor of Tahiti, iii. 211, 216, 219, 230, 232-238, 250,
+      253
+
+  Salak Gunung, volcano in Java, ii. 207
+
+  Salangan, swallow on the Nicobars, ii. 58; at Java, 235-237
+
+  Saltpetre, obtained at Iquique, iii. 343
+
+  Sambelong. _See_ Great Nicobar.
+
+  Sampan, or Chinese boat, ii. 413
+
+  Samschoo, a Chinese beverage obtained from rice, ii. 474
+
+  San Cristoval, island of, Solomon group, ii. 596, 624
+
+  San Luis de Apra, harbour in Marianne Archipelago, ii. 549
+
+  San Miguel, village near Manila, ii. 348
+
+  Sandal-wood cutters, ii. 609; atrocities perpetrated by, 610
+
+  Sandy Cape, Australia, ii. 626
+
+  Santiago de Chile, visit to, iii. 295-303
+
+  Sargasso, Mar de, iii. 334.
+
+  Sàui, village of the Nicobar Islands, i. 481, ii. 24, 83
+
+  _Saya y Manto_, the native dress of the Lima ladies, decline in the use
+      of, iii. 399
+
+  Scherzer, Dr. von, overland journey from Valparaiso, iii. 337-447
+
+  Schierbrand, Col. von, Batavia, ii. 277
+
+  Schroff, or Chinese factotum. See _Comprador_.
+
+  Schu-king (old Chinese Book), ii. 498
+
+  Sculptures of aboriginal Australians, iii. 34
+
+  Sea-birds, habits of. _See_ Cape Pigeon, Albatross, &c.
+
+  Serpent-breeding in Ceylon, i. 362
+
+  Sesarga, Island of, ii. 624
+
+  Sheep, statistics of, in New South Wales, iii. 62-64; in Australia at
+      large, 64; estimated value of, 64
+
+  Ship's complement, crew, officers, and scientific staff, i. Appendix
+
+  Shrove Tuesday on shipboard, ii. 256
+
+  Sicard, Dr. Adrian, monograph on Chinese sugar-cane, ii. 513
+
+  Sikayana, visit to, ii. 601-622
+
+  Sikkawéi, Jesuit mission at, ii. 480-483
+
+  Silk, Chinese, statistics of, ii. 498-450
+
+  Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope, anchorage of, i. 195-197
+
+  ---- Town, description of, i. 197-199
+
+  Simpson's Island, inaccurately assigned position of, ii. 591
+
+  Sinamay (or Sinamarre), Manila cloth, ii. 325 (note)
+
+  "Singing Stones," the, Macao, ii. 406
+
+  Siva, the Indian divinity, i. 435
+
+  Skulls, human, used as drinking cups in Australia, iii. 34; Indian,
+      found near Lima, 393
+
+  Slave population of Brazil, condition of, i. 166-168
+
+  Slavery among the Maories, iii. 116, 117
+
+  Smith, his block-house at Titarango, iii. 150
+
+  Snook-fish (_Thyrsites Atun_), i. 199
+
+  Snow-fall on board the _Novara_, off the Horn, iii. 325
+
+  Sokol, or Enchanted Lake, Manila. See _Laguna encantada_.
+
+  Solomon Islands, ii. 595-597
+
+  _Sorghum Saccharatum_ (Chinese sugar-cane), ii. 467, 512-515, iii. 302
+
+  Southampton, arrival of Dr. v. Scherzer at, iii. 447
+
+  Southern Cross, the, iii. 167
+
+  Southern railroad, Chile, excursion on, iii. 308-310
+
+  Sri-Pada, or Buddha's footstep, Ceylon, i. 413
+
+  St. George's Canal, Nicobar group, ii. 68
+
+  St. John College, Auckland, iii. 152
+
+  St. Thomas, Island of, iii. 441-444
+
+  Stafford, C. W., Under Secretary of State in New Zealand, iii. 97
+
+  Stearine, candle-factory of, at Clarence river, iii. 22
+
+  Stellenbosch, town of Cape Colony, i. 215-219
+
+  Stewart, Capt., of schooner _Louisa_, his narrative of the recent
+      history of the Pitcairn Islanders, iii. 269-276, 338
+
+  Stewart's Islands, ii. 598
+
+  Stores for voyage, list of, i. Appendix
+
+  Straubenzee, Lieut.-General, Commander-in-chief of allied forces in
+      China, ii. 382, 384
+
+  Strzelecki, Count, his ethnographic work on Australia, iii. 32
+
+  Sugar-growing in Tahiti, iii. 224, 225
+
+  Sweet potato, ii. 102; of Tahiti, iii. 245
+
+  Sycee (or sacrificial) paper, China, ii. 433 (note)
+
+  Sydney, arrival at, ii. 627; description of, iii. 7-10
+
+  Syle, Rev. Mr., missionary in China, ii. 460
+
+
+                                  T
+
+  Taboga, Island of, in Bay of Panama, iii. 422
+
+  Taboo, customs of, in New Zealand, iii. 114
+
+  Tacna, city of Peru, iii. 345
+
+  Tael, Chinese currency, ii. 422 (note)
+
+  Tagales, or Tagalogs, aborigines of the Philippines, ii. 292-296
+
+  Tahiti, Island of, iii. 196-251; first efforts of Protestant
+      missionaries in the Society Islands, 200-202; placed under French
+      protectorate, 208; present political condition, 239, 240, 248-251;
+      physical configuration of the island, 241; climate, 241; statistics
+      of value of commerce, 248
+
+  Tahitian women, their appearance and morals, iii. 219-221
+
+  Taiarapu, peninsula of Tahiti, iii. 227
+
+  Tai-ping rebels, their history, ii. 523-537; assume a political
+      organization, 527; their doctrines, 529-533; latest intelligence
+      respecting, 534-537
+
+  Takapuna district, New Zealand, iii. 100
+
+  Taki, Chinese merchant, Shanghai, banquet given by, ii. 485-494
+
+  Tallow-tree (_Stillingia Sebifera_) of China, ii. 517
+
+  Tangkuban Prahu, Javanese volcano, ii. 248-252
+
+  Tanka-boat, Macao, ii. 393, 394, 406
+
+  Taouist sect, China, ii. 435; their convents, 436
+
+  Taranaki (Mount Egmont), New Zealand, iii. 189; province and tribe,
+      189-191
+
+  Taro (_Caladium esculentum_), Puynipet Island, ii. 568
+
+  Tattooing, how performed among the Maories, iii. 110-114; on Puynipet,
+      ii. 572-574
+
+  Taú-Tái, or Governor of Shanghai, ii. 472; interview with him, 472-476
+
+  Tawa, the (_Laurus Tawa_), its berries used by the Maories for the
+      preparation of a beverage, iii. 122
+
+  Te-Huhu, death-song of, specimen of New Zealand dirges, iii. 130
+
+  Te Teira, New Zealand native, the purchase of whose land led to the late
+      wars, iii. 132
+
+  Tea, statistics of, ii. 504-511
+
+  Teijsman, J. E., Director of Botanical Garden of Buitenzorg, ii. 205
+
+  Telegraph, electric, its progress in Madras, i. 450; in Batavia, ii.
+      204; in Australia, iii. 43
+
+  Temple of the Goddess of the Sea, Shanghai. _See_ Goddess of the Sea.
+
+  Tenákoe, the New Zealand mode of salutation, iii. 149
+
+  Teressa, one of the Nicobar group, ii. 61
+
+  _Terra Japonica._ See _Acacia Catechu_.
+
+  Tetakaka valley, gold-fields of, New Zealand, iii. 190
+
+  _Tetraodon Honkenyi_ (sea-devil), fatal effects of eating, i. 199, 200
+
+  Theatrical representations in China, ii. 486-489
+
+  Thomson, Dr. A., anthropometrical and dynamical experiments with New
+      Zealand natives, and their results, iii. 123-125
+
+  Ti-plant (_Cordyline Australis_) of Tahiti, an intoxicant beverage
+      prepared from, iii. 245
+
+  Tien-tsin, treaty of, considered, ii. 386
+
+  Tiffin, the Indian lunch, i. 368
+
+  Tigers, prevalence of, at Singapore, ii. 143
+
+  Til-tree (_Oreodaphne f[oe]tens_), i. 65
+
+  Tiles (Chinese weights), ii. 156
+
+  Tillangschong, one of the Nicobar group, ii. 43, 45, 84
+
+  Tinkal. See _Borax_.
+
+  Tjiangoer, town in Java, ii. 235
+
+  Tjiburum, river in Java, ii. 216
+
+  Tjipodas, cinchona plantation at, in Java, ii. 227-232
+
+  Tjisokan, village in Java, ii. 237
+
+  Tjitarum, river in Java, ii. 238
+
+  Toe-toe, species of New Zealand grass, iii. 147
+
+  Tombs, Island of Puynipet, supposed, ii. 584
+
+  Tom Weiry, a Sydney chief, iii. 59
+
+  Tong-Kadu, Catholic cathedral near Shanghai, ii. 445, 478
+
+  Tow-boats, expense of, at Hong-kong, ii. 408; at Shanghai, 537
+
+  Track, one of the Nicobar group, ii. 62
+
+  Trepang (or _Biche de Mar_), different species of, ii. 619-622;
+      preparation for Chinese market, 621
+
+  Treis, Island of, Nicobar group, ii. 62
+
+  Trieste, departure from, i. 12; return to, iii. 455
+
+  Tschandú. _See_ Opium.
+
+  Tscharul Mugra (one of the _Flacourtiaceæ_), an antidote to leprosy,
+      used in China, ii. 458
+
+  Tschaura, or Chowra, Island of, Nicobar group, ii. 61, 84
+
+  Tschinapatnam, Indian village of, i. 429
+
+  Tschokóits, aboriginal race of Puynipet, ii. 575
+
+  Tsetse-fly, ravages of, in Cape Colony, i. 252-254
+
+  Tuakan, Maori village, iii. 166; New Year's night at, 167
+
+  Tubuai, Island of, in Rorutu Archipelago, iii. 196
+
+  Tupa-kihi (_Coriaria sarmentosa_) berries used for brewing purposes in
+      New Zealand, iii. 111
+
+  Turnour, George, translations from Cingalese, i. 395
+
+  Typhoon, description of a, ii. 539-549
+
+
+                                  U
+
+  Ulála Bay, Nicobar Islands, ii. 60, 94
+
+  Unger, Professor F., his theory as to the probable age of Australia,
+      iii. 70, 71
+
+  University of Sydney, iii. 8
+
+  ---- Santiago de Chile, iii. 298, 299
+
+  Upa-Upa, licentious dance of Tahitian women, iii. 219
+
+  Urdaneta, Friar A., Prior of the Augustines of Manila, ii. 306
+
+  Urmeneta, Don Jerónimo, foreign minister of Chile, iii. 304
+
+
+                                  V
+
+  Vahara Swami, Temple of, Madras, i. 470
+
+  Valdivia, German colony at, iii. 316
+
+  Valparaiso, iii. 280-291
+
+  Vanilla plantations in Java, ii. 205
+
+  Vapour-baths, Shanghai, ii. 419
+
+  Vegetable wax. _See_ Peh-lah.
+
+  Vellore, visit to, and fort, i. 447-453
+
+  _Venus_, French frigate, visits Tahiti, iii. 208
+
+  _Vert chinois._ _See_ Green Indigo.
+
+  Victoria, Hong-kong, ii. 355-375
+
+  Vigil, Francisco de Paula, director of National Library, Lima, iii. 375;
+      his views respecting the Papacy, 376
+
+  Vine disease in Madeira, particulars of the, i. 75-81
+
+  Vishnu, Indian Divinity, i. 429
+
+  Visscher van Gaasbeek, assistant resident, Java, ii. 239, 252
+
+  Vinhatico (_Persea indica_), at Madeira, i. 65
+
+  _Visanili Katail_ (poison oil), Ceylon, i. 401
+
+  Vriese, de, director of Botanical Garden, Leyden, his travels in Java,
+      ii. 242
+
+  Vrij, chemist, resident in Java, ii. 246-248
+
+
+                                  W
+
+  War in Chile, iii. 305, 306
+
+  Wax-berry, shrub, Cape Colony, i. 205
+
+  Wagner, Dr. Moritz, his contour map of Isthmus of Panama, iii. 434
+
+  Waiiria, Lake of, Tahiti, iii. 228
+
+  Waikato River, New Zealand, iii. 158, 174, 182-184
+
+  Wakka, New Zealand canoe, iii. 157
+
+  Walloby (Kangaroo rat), Australia, iii. 36
+
+  Wall reefs, ii. 556-558
+
+  Wandering sand-hills. See _Medanos_.
+
+  Wangs, or Kings of the Tai-pings, ii. 535-537
+
+  Waves, mode of measuring their height, i. 191; height in Chinese sea,
+      ii. 544
+
+  Weapons of the Nicobar aborigines, ii. 121
+
+  Weddahs, wild native race of Ceylon, i. 358
+
+  Wellington Province, New Zealand, iii. 188
+
+  Whale fishery off St. Paul Island, i. 288-291, 319-321; off Puynipet,
+      ii. 554, 579; off Tahiti, iii. 248
+
+  Whampoa, ship purveyor, ii. 168-173
+
+  Whari, or New Zealand hut, iii. 161-163
+
+  White colonists, Island of Puynipet, ii. 561
+
+  Whittle's Rock, Simon's Bay, Cape Colony, i. 259
+
+  Wiener, G., Austrian Consul at Hong-kong, ii. 378
+
+  Wild Banana. See _Musa Textilis_.
+
+  Will's Harbour. _See_ Papeete.
+
+  Williamson, J., Superintendent of Auckland Province, iii. 177
+
+  Wine cultivation of Madeira, i. 76-79; of Cape Colony, 255, 256; of
+      Australia, iii. 21-24
+
+  Winnes, Dr. Ph., Missionary at Hong-kong, ii. 368
+
+  Wiremu Kingi, chief of New Zealand insurgents, iii. 132
+
+  Wong-Fun, Physician in Macao, ii. 406
+
+  Worcester, Cape Colony, its charming site, i. 223-225
+
+  Wuang-po, canal of, ii. 479
+
+  Wulongong, harbour of, New South Wales, iii. 29; rencontre with natives,
+      30; Walloby hunt, 36; nocturnal adventures among the hills of, 40-42
+
+  Wusung River, at Shanghai, ii. 410-414, 479
+
+
+                                  Y
+
+  Yak-tien, Chinese drug stone, ii. 437
+
+  Yam, ii. 102; at Tahiti, iii. 245
+
+  Yang-tse-Kiang, arrival off, ii. 410; navigation of, 410-412
+
+  Yaws (_Framb[oe]sia_), prevalence of, in Puynipet Island, ii. 574
+
+  Yeh, late Governor of Canton, ii. 383; his cruelty to the Tai-pings, 526
+
+  Yellow fever, i. 158, iii. 372
+
+  Yo-stone. _See_ Nephrite.
+
+
+                                  Z
+
+   Zodiacal light, i. 480
+
+
+
+
+                                ERRATA.
+
+
+                                VOL. I.
+
+  PAGE LINE
+
+  vii. 1 from bottom, _for_ Hardinger _read_ Haidinger
+
+  viii. 3 from bottom, _for_ minerals _read_ mammalia
+
+  xxvi. 6 from bottom, _for_ Saugar _read_ Sangar
+
+  xxvii. 10 from bottom, _for_ Tama _read_ Jama
+
+  ----9 from bottom, _for_ Saka _read_ Saku
+
+  xxix. 12 from top, _for_ sheet of water _read_ pool of lava
+
+  xxx. 10 from bottom, _for_ isolated Vaihu of the _read_ isolated
+      Vaihu _or_ Easter Island
+
+  xxxi. 10 from bottom, _for_ schists of lava _read_ sheets _or_
+      flows of lava
+
+  xxxv. 17 from top, _for_ internally of a matted texture _read_
+      within the holes of a melted glassy surface
+
+  ----2 from bottom, _for_ Gacal _read_ Jakal
+
+  xxxvi. last line, _for_ Rosotlan _read_ Bosotlan
+
+  xxxvii. 6 from bottom, _for_ Posto de Quindici _read_ Passo de
+      Quindiu
+
+  xxxviii. 9 from bottom, _for_ Ausango _read_ Ansango
+
+  xxxviii. 5 from bottom, _for_ unlike _read_ like
+
+  ----last line, _for_ Pullo _read_ Puela
+
+  xxxix. 8 from bottom, _for_ veins _read_ grains
+
+  ----8 from bottom, _for_ Weise _read_ Wisse
+
+  ----6 from bottom, _for_ trachytes of Hungary _read_ trachytes
+      out of Hungary
+
+  xlii. 5 from top, _for_ 18° 15' _read_ 18° 25'
+
+  xliii. 12 from top, _for_ Exogira contoni _read_ Exogyra Couloni
+
+  xliv. 1 from top, or Yntales _has to be omitted entirely_
+
+  ----5 from top, _for_ La Cruz _read_ La Cruz Olmedella
+
+  1. 2 from top, _for_ crooked _read_ oblique
+
+  115 6 from bottom, _for_ 30° 50' _read_ 33° 50'
+
+  474 _for_ prediluvian period _read_ period (before the flood
+      extended so far)
+
+
+                               VOL. II.
+
+  PAGE
+
+  42 _for_ mania _read_ maina bird (Graculus)
+
+  102 _for_ Jakopha _read_ Jatropha
+
+  135 _for_ lovely _read_ lonely
+
+  143 _for_ Turiah _read_ Bukit Timah
+
+  156 _for_ Tschni-tschni _read_ Tschin-tschin
+
+  163 _for_ Carl _read_ Windsor Earl
+
+  219 _for_ usnioides _read_ usneoïdes
+
+  242 _for_ Phlippan _read_ Phlippau
+
+  262 _for_ room _read_ court yard
+
+  296 _for_ Tbanac _read_ Ybanac
+
+  319 _for_ Bisayx _read_ Bisaya
+
+  343 _for_ aficimado _read_ aficiado
+
+  350 _for_ Girandier _read_ Giraudier
+
+  355 _for_ Praya Granite _read_ Praya Grande
+
+  355 _for_ To-stone _read_ Yo-stone
+
+  364 _for_ Funan _read_ Yunan
+
+  366 _read_ preparing Indian-ink from
+
+  394 _for_ Russian _read_ Prussian
+
+  401 _for_ "lines" _read_ "lions"
+
+  411 _for_ become involved _read_ escaped being involved
+
+  416 _for_ Main-tze _read_ Mian-tze
+
+  416 _for_ Long-Sah _read_ Long-Fah
+
+  471 _for_ been _read_ had brought him
+
+  482 _for_ medical _read_ philosophical
+
+  498 _for_ Shoo-kiu _read_ Shoo-kin
+
+  508 _for_ invisible _read_ illimitable
+
+  516 _for_ China _read_ India
+
+  518 _for_ limitata _read_ limbata
+
+  547 _for_ Dkinawasmia _read_ Dkinawasima
+
+  553 _for_ Metetenai _read_ Metelenian
+
+  575 _for_ Metelemia _read_ Metelenian
+
+  575 _for_ Awnaks _read_ Awuaks
+
+  585 _for_ Nálan _read_ Ualán
+
+  596 _for_ Senville _read_ Surville
+
+
+                              VOL. III.
+
+  PAGE LINE
+
+  2 1 from bottom, _for_ Cotton _read_ Cotta
+
+  29 8 from bottom, _for_ son-in-law _read_ brother-in-law
+
+  33 9 from top, _for_ Augos _read_ Angas
+
+  43 14 from top, _for_ stone-fields _read_ coal-fields
+
+  58 14 from top, _for_ Cool-river _read_ Cook-river
+
+  177 8 from bottom, _for_ England _read_ island
+
+  186 11 from bottom, _for_ Thorold _read_ Mould
+
+  191 _for_ Pakaivau _read_ Pakawau
+
+  232 11 from bottom, _for_ reception-room _read_ reception-court
+
+  243 1 from top, _for_ (pomegranates) _read_ (carica papayi)
+
+  244 3 from bottom, _for_ Tacea _read_ Tacca
+
+  245 4 from bottom, _for_ spandias _read_ spondias
+
+  279 5 from top, _for_ 118 _read_ 48 days
+
+  299 10 from bottom, _for_ Sillis _read_ Gillis
+
+  308 7 from bottom, _for_ Ferro Canil _read_ Carril
+
+  338 16 from bottom, _for_ the _read_ a
+
+  351 16 from bottom, _for_ gama _read_ garua
+
+  389 19 from bottom, _for_ Accordingly our _read_ Formerly the
+
+  407 6 from bottom, _for_ Cocani _read_ Cocain
+
+  ----7, 11, & 21--_for_ Cocani _read_ Cocain
+
+  ----3, 8, & 13 from top, _for_ Cocani _read_ Cocain
+
+  408 3, 6, & 21 from bottom, _for_ cocani _read_ cocain
+
+  410 8 from top, _for_ Hasakael _read_ Hasskarl
+
+  417 12 from bottom, _for_ centner _read_ quintal
+
+  418 10 from top, _for_ Huanchoco _read_ Huanchaco
+
+  ----5 from bottom, _for_ this hitherto _read_ a hitherto
+
+  419 3 & 10 from top, _for_ Lambajique _read_ Lambajeque
+
+  ----2 from bottom, _for_ San Salvadore _read_ San Salvador
+
+  420 9 from top, _for_ Criomys _read_ Eriomys
+
+  ----6 from bottom, _for_ Chirãr _read_ Chirar
+
+  422 12 from top, _read_ it rose from 65° to 76° Fahr.
+
+  ----11 from bottom, _for_ Taboquille _read_ Taboquilla
+
+  428 11 from top, _for_ Le Breton _read_ Lebreton
+
+  430 8 from top, _for_ £200,000 to £1,300,000 _read_ £200,000 to
+      £300,000
+
+  ----9 from bottom, _for_ an hour or two _read_ a few hours
+
+  435 11 from bottom, _for_ facts _read_ specimens
+
+  444 5 from bottom, _for_ however _read_ moreover
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+                         List Of Corrections
+
+
+Transcriber's Note: Blank pages have been deleted. All of the footnotes
+have been moved. Some illustrations may have been moved. We have rendered
+consistent on a per-word-pair basis the hyphenation or spacing of such
+pairs when repeated in the same grammatical context. We have corrected
+inconsistencies in the application of accents to the same word when
+repeated in the same context. Paragraph formatting has been made
+consistent. The publisher's inadvertent omissions of important punctuation
+have been corrected. Some wide tables have been re-formatted to narrower
+equivalents with some words replaced with commonly known abbreviations and
+possibly a key. Some ditto marks have been replaced with the words
+represented.
+
+Other detected publisher's errors were corrected as listed below. The page
+number is that of the source publication. An asterisk after the page
+number indicates that the correction was specified by the publisher.
+
+  Page          Correction
+
+    2 * Political Economy. Stuttgart, 1840. (J. C. Cotton[Cotta].)
+   24   being much more extensively dealt in in[delete 2nd in] European
+   29 * Mr. Edward Hill, a son-in-law[brother-in-law] of
+   32   according to all unbiassed[unbiased] observers,
+   33 * among the natives of the north. M. Augos[Angas],
+   43 * Hunter River and the Newcastle stone-fields[coal-fields],
+   58 * thence over the Cool[Cook]-River
+   96   by the numerous streams and creaks[creeks]
+  111 * fruit of Tupa-kihi (_Coriaria Samentosa[Sarmentosa]_).
+  120   settlements adjoining Fovean's[Foveau]Straits
+  172   Commodore Von Wüllerstorff[Wüllerstorf] consented on condition
+  177 * this little-explored England[island], we avail
+  186 * put at my disposal by Colonel Thorold[Mould]
+  191 * Pakaivau[Pakawau] give ground for anticipating that
+  231   had already made the the[del 2nd the] circuit
+  231 * In the reception-room[court] a perfect mountain
+  241 * Pusenaura, Papara, Papuriri[Papeuriri],
+  243 * (pine-apples), papayas (pomegranates?)[(carica papayi)],
+  244 * VI. Pia (_Tacea[Tacca] pinnatifida_),
+  245 * the _pandanus_ fruit, the _spandias[spondias] dulcis_
+  263   good officers[offices] of the British Government
+  269   details repecting[respecting] them.
+  279 * in 118[48] days, and although
+  282   nothing recals[recalls] that singular national aboriginal type,
+  293   For this purpose Commodore von Wüllerstoff[Wüllerstorf]
+  299 * traveller Sillis[Gillis], who for many years
+  300   lodged, and clothed gratuituously[gratuitously],
+  306   the downfal[downfall] of the existing Government
+  308 * (Ferro Canil[Carril] del Sur)
+  321   unhappy case. Commodore Wüllerstorff[Wüllerstorf],
+  338 * the[a] little boat made its appearance
+  351 * a fine penetrating dew (_gama[garua]_),
+  372   "_Los ninos[niños] se crian en la Calle!_"
+  380   Manuel Fuentes' valuable "Estadestica[Estadistica] General de Lima
+  389 * Accordingly our[Formerly the] ride to Chorillos,
+  395   we passed the beautifully situate[situated] village
+  407 * in such cases, the name Cocani[Cocain]
+  407 * Cocani[Cocain] is precipitated in colourless inodorous
+  407 * Cocani[Cocain] completely neutralizes acids,
+  407 * nature and properties of cocani[cocain]. M. Wöhler,
+  410 * respecting which Hasakael[Hasskarl] has observed
+  417 * amount to from 8 to 10 dollars per centner[quintal].
+  418 * reached Huanchoco[Huanchaco], the principal
+  418 * me a small flask of this[a] hitherto little-known
+  419 * de Lambajique[Lambajeque] in the department of Chola.
+  419 * miles north of Lambajique[Lambajeque] lies the Indian
+  419 * Central American State of San Salvadore[Salvador]
+  420 * chinchilla fur (_Criomys[Eriomys] Chinchilla_),
+  420 * city from the river Chir[=a]r[Chirar],
+  422 * it was as high as[it rose from] 65° to 70°[76°] Fahr.
+  422 * with the adjacent islet of Taboquille[Taboquilla],
+  428 * By Dr. Le Breton[Lebreton], a French physician
+  430 * the Company at from £200,000 to £1,300,000[£300,000].
+  430 * hour or two[a few hours] a journey which often occupied
+  435 * geological and botanical facts[specimens]
+  444 * However[Moreover], the impression made by the
+  454   more extensive mementoes[mementos] of Roman architecture
+  496   utility of pushing on [to] the dépôt
+  519   Algesiras[Algeziras], i. 40
+  522   Campbeltown[Cambelton], New South Wales, excursion to
+  524   Curaré, the Indian prison[poison],
+  524   Corróborry[Coróborry], dance of the Australian aborigines,
+  529   Joss-ticks[Joss-sticks], ii. 341
+  529   Illawarra[Illawara] District, New South Wales,
+  532   Metelenien[Metelenian], harbour of, in Puynipet island,
+  533   Director of the Botannical[Botanical] Garden
+  535   Papacura[Papakura], plains of, New Zealand, iii. 170
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of the Circumnavigation of
+the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III, by Karl Ritter von Scherzer
+
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+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the
+Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III, by Karl Ritter von Scherzer
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III
+       (Commodore B. Von Wullerstorf-Urbair,) Undertaken by Order
+              of the Imperial Government in the Years 1857, 1858, & 1859,
+              Under the Immediate Auspices of His I. and R. Highness the
+              Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, Commander-In-Chief of the
+              Austrian Navy.
+
+Author: Karl Ritter von Scherzer
+
+Release Date: January 3, 2012 [EBook #38478]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AUSTRIAN FRIGATE NOVARA, VOL III ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Thorsten Kontowski, Henry Gardiner and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+(This file made from scans of public domain material at
+Austrian Literature Online.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div class="center" style="width: 25em; margin: auto; border: solid 1px; padding: 1em;">
+Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been replicated faithfully except as listed
+<a href="#Changes" name="Start" id="Start">here</a>.
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--001.png-->
+
+<h1 style="line-height: 2em;">NARRATIVE<br />
+
+<small>OF THE</small><br />
+
+Circumnavigation of the Globe<br />
+
+<small>BY THE AUSTRIAN FRIGATE<br /></small>
+
+NOVARA,</h1>
+
+<div class="c2" style="line-height: 2em;"><span style="font-size: 0.7em">(COMMODORE B. VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,)<br />
+
+<i>Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government</i>,</span><br />
+
+IN THE YEARS 1857, 1858, &amp; 1859,</div>
+
+<div class="c4">UNDER THE IMMEDIATE AUSPICES OF HIS I. AND R. HIGHNESS<br />
+
+THE ARCHDUKE FERDINAND MAXIMILIAN,<br />
+
+COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE AUSTRIAN NAVY.</div>
+
+<div class="c5">BY</div>
+
+<div class="c2">DR. KARL SCHERZER,</div>
+
+<div class="c5">MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION, AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA," ETC.</div>
+
+<div class="c1">VOL. III.</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 266px;"><a name="illu001" id="illu001"></a>
+<img src="images/illu001.png" width="176" height="121" alt="Sans Changer" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="c4">
+LONDON:<br />
+SAUNDERS, OTLEY, AND CO.,<br />
+66, BROOK STREET, HANOVER SQUARE.<br />
+<br />
+1863.
+</div>
+
+<div class="c5">[THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.]</div>
+
+<!--002.png-->
+
+<div class="c5" style="padding-top: 2em;">
+JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--003.png-->
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="font-size: 0.9em;">PAGE</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1" colspan="2">CHAPTER XVIII.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2" colspan="2">SYDNEY.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc3">
+The politico-economical importance to England of her
+colonies.&mdash;Extraordinary growth of Sydney.&mdash;Public
+buildings.&mdash;Expeditions of discovery into the interior of
+Australia.&mdash;Scientific endeavours in Sydney.&mdash;Macleay's Seat at
+Elizabeth Bay.&mdash;Sir Daniel Cooper.&mdash;Rickety Dick.&mdash;Monument
+to La Pérouse at Botany Bay.&mdash;The Botanical Garden.&mdash;Journey by
+rail to Campbelton.&mdash;Camden Park.&mdash;German emigrants.&mdash;Wine
+cultivation in Australia. Odd Fellows' Lodge at
+Campbelton.&mdash;Appin.&mdash;Wulongong.&mdash;Mr. Hill.&mdash;The
+Aborigines.&mdash;Kangaroo hunting.&mdash;Coal mines in the Keira
+range.&mdash;An adventure in the woods.&mdash;Return to Sydney.&mdash;The
+Australian club.&mdash;Excursion up Hunter River as far as Ash
+Island.&mdash;"Nuggets."&mdash;The <i>Novara</i> in the dry dock at Cockatoo
+Island.&mdash;Reformation among the prisoners in the
+colony.&mdash;Serenade by the Germans in Sydney, in honour of the
+expedition.&mdash;Ball on board the frigate.&mdash;Political life in
+Sydney.&mdash;Excursion for craniological purposes to Cook-river Bay, and
+Long Bay.&mdash;Intercourse with natives.&mdash;Wool
+growing.&mdash;Attempts to introduce the Llama and Alpaca from
+Bolivia.&mdash;The gold-fields of the colony of New South Wales.&mdash;Is
+Australia the youngest or oldest part of the globe?&mdash;The
+convict-system and transportation as a punishment.&mdash;Departure from
+Sydney.&mdash;Barrier Island.&mdash;Arrival at Huraka Gulf, New Zealand.
+</td>
+
+<td><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIX.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2" colspan="2">AUCKLAND.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc3">
+Request preferred by the Colonial Government to have the coal-fields of the
+Drury District thoroughly examined by the geologists of the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Geographical
+remarks concerning New Zealand.&mdash;Auckland.&mdash;The Aborigines or
+Maori.&mdash;A Mass meeting.&mdash;Maori legends.&mdash;Manners and customs of the
+Aborigines.&mdash;The Meri-Meri.&mdash;Most important of the vegetable esculents of
+<!--004.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">iv</a></span>the
+Aborigines before the arrival of the Europeans.&mdash;Dr. Thomson's anthropological
+investigations.&mdash;Maori proverbs and poetry.&mdash;The present war and its
+origin.&mdash;The Maori king.&mdash;Decay of the native population and its supposed
+causes.&mdash;Advantages held out by New Zealand to European emigration.&mdash;Excursion
+to the Waiatarna valley.&mdash;Maori village of Oraki.&mdash;Kauri forests in
+the Manukau range.&mdash;Mr. Smith's farm in Titarangi.&mdash;St. John's College.&mdash;Intellectual
+activity in Auckland.&mdash;New Zealand silk.&mdash;Excursion to the coal-fields
+of the Drury and Hunua Districts.&mdash;New Year's Eve at the Antipodes.&mdash;Dr.
+Hochstetter remains in New Zealand.&mdash;The Catholic mission in Auckland.&mdash;Two
+Maories take service as seamen on board the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Departure.&mdash;The
+results of the explorations of the geologist during his stay at the island.&mdash;Crossing
+the meridian of 180° from West to East.&mdash;The same day
+reckoned twice.&mdash;The sight of the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo.&mdash;Arrival in
+the harbour of Papeete.
+</td>
+
+<td><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1" colspan="2">CHAPTER XX.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2" colspan="2">TAHITI.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc3">
+State of the island at the close of last century.&mdash;The London Missionary Society
+and its emissaries.&mdash;Great mortality among the native population.&mdash;First arrival
+of Catholic Priests in Oceania.&mdash;French Protectorate and its consequences.&mdash;The
+Tahitian Parliament and Tahitian debaters.&mdash;William Howe.&mdash;Adam
+Kulczycki.&mdash;Scientific aims and achievements.&mdash;The Catholic mission.&mdash;<i>Pré
+Catalan</i> and native dances.&mdash;Prisoners of war from New Caledonia.&mdash;Point
+Venus.&mdash;Guava-fields.&mdash;The fort of Fautáua.&mdash;Lake Waiiria.&mdash;Popular
+<i>Fête</i> at Faáa.&mdash;Ball given by the Governor.&mdash;Queen Pomáre.&mdash;Geographical
+notes on Tahiti and Eimeo.&mdash;Climate.&mdash;Vegetation.&mdash;The Kawa root, and the
+intoxicating drink produced from it.&mdash;Great expense of the French Stations
+in Oceania.&mdash;Projects of reform.&mdash;Results of English and French colonization.&mdash;Two
+Convicts.&mdash;Departure.&mdash;The Whaler <i>Emily Morgan</i>.&mdash;Attempt to fix
+the zero point of magnetic declination.&mdash;"Colique végétale."&mdash;A victim.&mdash;Pitcairn
+Island.&mdash;A fire-side tale of the tropical world.&mdash;An accident without
+ill results.&mdash;Humboldt's Current.&mdash;Arrival at Valparaiso.
+</td>
+
+<td><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1" colspan="2">CHAPTER XXI.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2" colspan="2">VALPARAISO.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc3">
+Importance of Chile for German emigration.&mdash;First impressions of Valparaiso.&mdash;Stroll
+through the city.&mdash;Commercial relations of Chile with Australia and
+California.&mdash;Quebrada de Juan Gomez.&mdash;The roadstead.&mdash;The Old Quarter
+and Fort Rosario.&mdash;Cerro Algre.&mdash;Fire Companies.&mdash;Abadic's nursery-garden.&mdash;Campo
+Santo.&mdash;The German community and its club.&mdash;A compatriot festival
+<!--005.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">v</a></span>in
+honour of the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Journey to Santiago de Chile.&mdash;University.&mdash;National
+Museum.&mdash;Observatory.&mdash;Industrial and agricultural schools.&mdash;Professor
+Don Ignacio Domey Ko.&mdash;Audience of the President of the Republic.&mdash;Don
+Manuel Montt and his political opponents.&mdash;Family life in Santiago.&mdash;Excursion
+trip on the southern railroad.&mdash;Maipú Bridge.&mdash;Melepilla.&mdash;The
+Hacienda of Las Esmeraldas.&mdash;Chilean hospitality.&mdash;Return to Valparaiso.&mdash;Quillota.&mdash;The
+German colony in Valdivia.&mdash;Colonization in the Straits of
+Magellan.&mdash;Ball at the Austrian Consul-general's in honour of the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Extraordinary
+voyage of a damaged ship.&mdash;Departure of the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Voyage
+round Cape Horn.&mdash;The Falkland Islands.&mdash;The French corvette <i>Eurydice</i>.&mdash;The
+Sargasso sea.&mdash;Encounter with a merchant-ship in the open ocean.&mdash;Hopes
+disappointed and curiosity excited.&mdash;Passage through the Azores channel.&mdash;A
+vexatious calm.
+</td>
+
+<td><a href="#Page_280">280</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1" colspan="2">CHAPTER XXII.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2" colspan="2">AN OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM VALPARAISO TO GIBRALTAR, VIÂ THE ISTHMUS
+OF PANAMA.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc3">
+Departure from Valparaiso.&mdash;Coquimbo.&mdash;Caldera.&mdash;Cobija.&mdash;Iquique.&mdash;Manufacture
+of saltpetre.&mdash;Arica.&mdash;Port d'Islay.&mdash;<i>Medanos</i>, or wandering sand-hills.&mdash;Chola.&mdash;Pisco.&mdash;The
+Chincha or Guano Islands.&mdash;Remarks respecting
+the Guano or Huanu beds.&mdash;Callao.&mdash;Lima.&mdash;Carrion crows, the principal
+street-scavengers.&mdash;Churches and Monasteries.&mdash;Hospitals.&mdash;Charitable institutions.&mdash;Medical
+College.&mdash;National Library.&mdash;Padre Vigil.&mdash;National Museum.&mdash;The
+Central Normal School.&mdash;Great lack of intellectual energy.&mdash;Ruins
+of Cajamarquilla.&mdash;Chorillos.&mdash;Temple to the Sun at Pachacamác.&mdash;River
+Rimac.&mdash;Amancaes.&mdash;The new prison.&mdash;Bull-fights.&mdash;State of society in
+Peru.&mdash;The <i>Coca</i> plant, and the latest scientific examination respecting its
+peculiar properties.&mdash;The <i>China</i>, or Peruvian-bark tree.&mdash;Departure from
+Lima.&mdash;Lambajeque.&mdash;Indian village of Iting.&mdash;Païta.&mdash;Island of La Plata.&mdash;Taboga
+Island.&mdash;Impression made by the intelligence of Humboldt's death.&mdash;Panama.&mdash;"Opposition"
+Line.&mdash;Immense traffic.&mdash;The Railway across the Isthmus.&mdash;Aspinwall.&mdash;Carthagena.&mdash;St.
+Thomas.&mdash;Voyage to Europe on board
+the R.M.S. <i>Magdalena</i>.&mdash;Falmouth.&mdash;Southampton.&mdash;London.&mdash;Rejoin the
+<i>Novara</i> at sea.&mdash;Arrival at Gibraltar.
+</td>
+
+<td><a href="#Page_337">337</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1" colspan="2">CHAPTER XXIII.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2" colspan="2">FROM GIBRALTAR TO TRIESTE.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc3">
+First circumstantial details of the War of 1859.&mdash;Alterations in Gibraltar since our
+previous visit.&mdash;Science and Warfare.&mdash;Voyage through the Mediterranean.&mdash;Messina.&mdash;The
+<i>Novara</i> taken in tow by the War-steamer <i>Lucia</i>.&mdash;Gravosa.&mdash;Ragusa.&mdash;Arrival
+<!--006.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">vi</a></span>of
+H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian at Gravosa.&mdash;Presentation
+of the Staff.&mdash;Banquet on board the screw-corvette <i>Dandolo</i>.&mdash;Pola.&mdash;Roman
+Amphitheatre.&mdash;Porta Aurea.&mdash;Triumphal return to Trieste.&mdash;Retrospect
+of the achievements and general scientific results of the Expedition.&mdash;Concluding
+Remarks.
+</td>
+
+<td><a href="#Page_449">449</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1" style="padding-top: 2em;">APPENDIX&mdash;Vol. ii</td><td style="padding-top: 2em;"><a href="#Page_461">461</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1">APPENDIX&mdash;Vol. iii</td><td><a href="#Page_494">494</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1">INDEX</td><td><a href="#Page_519">519</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc1">ERRATA</td><td><a href="#Page_543">543</a></td></tr>
+
+</table></div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--007.png-->
+
+<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+
+<div class="c3">VOL. III.</div>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right" style="font-size: 0.9em;">PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1.</td><td align="left" class="loi1">Denizens of an Australian Forest</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2.</td><td align="left" class="loi1">Maori</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3.</td><td align="left" class="loi1">Native Fête to the Governor</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4.</td><td align="left" class="loi1">The Lasso</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_280">280</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5.</td><td align="left" class="loi1">Station on the Panama Railway</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_337">337</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6.</td><td align="left" class="loi1">The Austrian Eagle</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_449">449</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--009.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p>
+
+<div style="position: absolute; left: 50%; margin-left: -342px;
+width: 684px; height: 942px; background-image: url('images/illu009.png');
+background-color: transparent;"><a name="illu009" id="illu009"></a>
+<span style="position: relative; top: -1em;">Denizens of an Australian Forest</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="icba" style="width: 684px; height: 440px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 45px; margin-right: -60px;"></div>
+<div class="icbr" style="height: 45px; margin-left: -60px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 50px; margin-right: -60px;"></div>
+<div class="icbr" style="height: 50px; margin-left: -60px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 55px; margin-right: -200px;"></div>
+<div class="icbr" style="height: 55px; margin-left: -200px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 115px; margin-right: -260px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 250px; margin-right: -280px;"></div>
+
+<h2 style="clear: none;"><a name="XVIII" id="XVIII"></a>XVIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="c2" style="clear: none;">Sydney.</div>
+
+<div class="c3" style="clear: none;"><span class="smcap">Stay From 5th November To 7th December, 1858.</span></div>
+
+<div class="ChapDescr" style="clear: none;">
+The politico-economical importance to England of her
+colonies.&mdash;Extraordinary growth of Sydney.&mdash;Public
+buildings.&mdash;Expeditions of discovery into the interior of
+Australia.&mdash;Scientific endeavours in Sydney.&mdash;Macleay's Seat at
+Elizabeth Bay.&mdash;Sir Daniel Cooper.&mdash;Rickety Dick.&mdash;Monument to
+La Pérouse at Botany Bay.&mdash;The Botanical Garden.&mdash;Journey by
+rail to Campbelton.&mdash;Camden Park.&mdash;German emigrants.&mdash;Wine
+cultivation in Australia.&mdash;Odd Fellows' Lodge at
+Campbelton.&mdash;Appin.&mdash;Wulongong.&mdash;Mr. Hill.&mdash;The
+aborigines.&mdash;Kangaroo hunting.&mdash;Coal mines in the Keira
+range.&mdash;An adventure in the woods.&mdash;Return to Sydney.&mdash;The
+Australian club.&mdash;Excursion up Hunter River as far as Ash
+Island,&mdash;"Nuggets."&mdash;The <i>Novara</i> in the dry dock at Cockatoo
+Island.&mdash;Reformation among the prisoners in the
+colony.&mdash;Serenade by the Germans in Sydney, in honour of the
+expedition.&mdash;Ball on board the frigate.&mdash;Political life in
+Sydney.&mdash;Excursion for craniological purposes to Cook-river Bay,
+and Long Bay.&mdash;Intercourse with natives.&mdash;Wool
+growing.&mdash;Attempts to introduce the Llama and Alpaca from
+Bolivia.&mdash;The gold-fields of the colony of New South Wales.&mdash;Is
+Australia the youngest or oldest part of the globe?&mdash;The
+convict-system and transportation as a punishment.&mdash;Departure
+from Sydney.&mdash;Barrier Island.&mdash;Arrival at Huraka Gulf, New
+Zealand.
+</div>
+
+<p>Whoever wishes to form an accurate idea of the power and might of the
+British nation, and is desirous to discover the
+<!--010.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span>sources
+of the
+all-important influence the "island race" exercise over the destinies of
+humanity, should visit, not England, but her colonies in America, Africa,
+Asia, and Australia. In these he will see in full and beneficial
+operation, that system which one of the greatest of German political
+economists, the ingenious Fredrick List, recommended more than thirty
+years ago to the German Government, when he spoke of the serious detriment
+the Northern country sustained year after year by the emigration <i>en
+masse</i> of skilled German labourers, and when he repeatedly urged to make
+agriculture under the tropics reciprocally beneficial to the manufacturing
+industry of the temperate zone.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<p>England has comprehended better than Germany how to utilize the energies
+of such of her children as emigrate to distant quarters of the globe, and
+to make them subservient to her own advancement as well; she evinced the
+most anxious solicitude for these pioneers of progress, extended her
+protection to them, flung the aegis of her own power over their adopted
+home, regarding each new settlement as but an extension of the limit of
+her empire, as an enlargement of the sources whence she drew the materials
+for her industrial handicrafts, as a new market for her manufactures! In
+all parts of the inhabited earth English activity has thus displayed
+itself, busily engaged in supplying the demand for raw materials in her
+home market, by exchanging for them her own manufactures, till English
+ships have become the all but
+<!--011.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span>universal
+carriers of the commerce of the
+globe, while the English language has been adopted as the medium of
+intercommunication of all seafarers.</p>
+
+<p>Australia, or New Holland,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> as it was originally termed by its first
+discoverers, proud of their nationality, furnishes of all the British
+colonies the most conspicuous and instructive example of this policy.
+England has not merely thrown open this immense continent to European
+civilization, peopled it with hundreds of thousands of her sons, and
+created a new market for herself and all navigating nations,&mdash;she has also
+in this colony furnished the solution of a psychological problem, namely,
+that it is by no means an innate natural propensity to do evil, but rather
+the force of circumstances which drives man to vice and crime, and that
+the diviner portion of his nature forthwith re-asserts itself, so soon as
+he is provided with another more favourable sphere of action, and a fair
+opportunity is offered to him of earning his livelihood in an honourable,
+independent manner by the free, unshackled development of his mental and
+physical powers.</p>
+
+<p>Originally founded as a penal settlement for convicts sentenced to
+transportation for long periods of years, and in fact composed at first of
+such unpromising elements, this splendid country is at present one of the
+wealthiest and most important colonies of the British Crown, and close to
+that spot where, on 28th January, 1788, 850 criminals were landed, there
+to take up their involuntary abode, there now rises in one of the numerous
+<!--012.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span>coves
+of the splendidly situate Bay of Port Jackson, a city of such
+magnificence, so large and so beautiful, that it has been called the
+"Queen of the South," or even, with more enthusiasm than accuracy, "Little
+London." The population of the city and environs is estimated at 93,000,
+that of this single colony at 350,000, while its trade has increased to
+such an extent that it keeps employed 1000 ships and 18,000 men, the value
+of exports of raw, and import of manufactured products, amounting for this
+one port to upwards of £12,000,000 per annum. The discovery of abundant
+gold-fields in the adjacent colony of Victoria has undoubtedly materially
+contributed to this enormous expansion, and has perceptibly increased the
+immigration, but the development of the capabilities of the land itself
+has not been less steadily increasing, wherever the population have
+pursued the surer and more solid occupation of agriculture and
+cattle-rearing. The wool growth of Australia, which in 1820 was barely 50
+tons, has since then risen to nearly 25,000 tons, rivalling in bulk and
+quality that of the Cape, and rapidly becoming a dangerous competitor with
+those countries of Europe, whose wools have hitherto commanded their own
+terms in the English market.</p>
+
+<p>A continent of such immeasurable natural resources, with a climate,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>
+especially on its southern coasts, remarkable for its
+<!--013.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span>mildness,
+equability, and salubrity, and a population so limited<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> in proportion to
+the extent of surface, was naturally an object of deep interest for the
+members of the <i>Novara</i> Expedition. Accordingly during their stay of
+thirty-two days they set diligently to work, not only to enlarge their
+acquaintance with the scientific idiosyncrasies of this vast portion of
+the globe, but also to examine minutely the prospects it holds out to
+German commerce and German emigration, and to investigate the influence
+which has been exercised on the development of the colony by the system of
+transporting convicts thither. And it is not less significant of the high
+repute enjoyed by the Imperial Expedition in foreign countries, as
+honourable to its members, to record, that the then Governor-General of
+New South Wales, Sir William Denison, who has since been transferred to
+the much more important and lucrative post of Governor of the Madras
+Presidency, and who enjoys no slight reputation in scientific circles as a
+conchyliologist, expressed his anxious desire that the geologist of the
+<i>Novara</i> should thoroughly examine the geological formation of the
+province of Auckland in New Zealand, and exerted himself vigorously to
+forward the accomplishment of this
+project.<!--014.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span></p>
+
+<p>From the German residents in Sydney, as well as from all the officials and
+the inhabitants generally, we received the utmost assistance and most
+cordial co-operation in our various inquiries. The former received the
+Expedition with a most enthusiastic welcome, and it was truly gratifying
+to learn that some of the more keenly susceptible of home-influences had
+weeks before made the beach their favourite promenade, in order that they
+might be the first to see and welcome the long-expected German man-of-war
+at her arrival! The German newspaper "<i>Australische Zeitung</i>" (published
+by a native of Grätz, named Degotardi) of November 6th was quite filled
+with advertisements and notices relating to the <i>Novara</i>, and the
+festivities which had been prepared in her honour. Every member of the
+staff received a copy on board, so that before even we set foot on shore,
+we were apprized of the old German hospitality which awaited us on our
+arrival in this the fifth quarter of the globe. As, however, it was
+imperatively necessary to have the frigate taken to the Government dock,
+in order to repair the damages she sustained in the typhoon, the
+contemplated rejoicings had to stand over for the moment, till the
+<i>Novara</i> could come forth in renewed splendour, and was fit to give a
+proper reception to the homage intended to be offered in her honour. These
+rather extensive repairs would require three weeks to complete, and after
+the first few days had passed in making and receiving official visits, as
+also in sight-seeing in the city and environs, the greater portion of
+<!--015.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span>their
+stay was employed by the scientific staff in excursions into the
+interior of the colony.</p>
+
+<p>Sydney at present has with its suburbs attained already to the dimensions
+of a European city. Only thirty years ago there stood but a few herdsmen's
+huts, where now the visitor beholds block after block of handsome stone
+private residences, or magnificent shops. There is not one article of
+luxury or comfort which cannot be supplied here. The chief building stone
+of the locality, sandstone, is chiefly used in the erection of churches,
+public buildings, and private dwellings. The Exchange, the Bank, the
+Houses of Assembly, Government House, &amp;c., are stately buildings erected
+in a solid, massive style, and if "Hyde Park," a treeless meadow in the
+centre of the city, by no means answers to its sounding title, the Botanic
+Garden, on the other hand, the park known as "Lady McQuarrie's Chair,"
+"Kissing-Point," and "Lovers' Walk," form promenades as delightful as any
+capital of Europe can show in such immediate proximity. Sydney, moreover,
+is amply supplied with gas and water, as well as with every means of
+conveyance that can facilitate intercourse in a large town, such as
+omnibuses, cabs, steamers, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The theatres hitherto, whether as regards scenery or performance, have
+hardly exceeded mediocrity, but on the other hand educational
+establishments, public libraries, and hospitals, are of singular
+excellence. It is truly marvellous, and especially makes a profound
+impression upon the
+<!--016.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span>denizens
+of old Europe, to observe what handsome,
+imposing, costly buildings have been run up among this comparatively
+youthful community. The Sydney University, founded in 1851, is built in
+the Gothic style, at an expense of £50,000, and is maintained by an annual
+grant of £5000. It is far the finest memorial erected by European
+civilization in honour of science, throughout the southern hemisphere. Its
+internal organization is somewhat analogous with that of those of the
+mother country. All the high schools of Sydney accord academic degrees in
+the various branches, and by a Royal Patent of 27th of February, 1858,
+holders of honours are raised to the same rank with those in the other
+universities of the Empire. Although only secular education is provided by
+the University, there have been founded four colleges in immediate
+proximity with each other, for the four principal religious denominations
+in the colony, Anglican, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, and Methodist, in
+which the scholars may, without prejudice to the secular character<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> of
+the University proper, receive instruction in their various beliefs. The
+erection of these four adjuncts cost about £40,000 more. At the period of
+our visit there were only 38 scholars enrolled, whose instruction cost the
+state a rather round sum. A commencement had been made with a library, a
+museum of natural history, and a numismatic
+collection.<!--017.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Besides the University, there are in Sydney a considerable number of very
+important educational establishments and public schools. The most
+strenuous exertions are made to keep the public schools in a high state of
+efficiency, and there is scarcely a hamlet, where the rising generation
+may not be instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar, and
+geography.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p>
+
+<p>An observatory is also in course of erection, but meteorological
+observations had long since been carried on in the principal places of the
+colony, and from the favourable natural conditions of the continent for
+conducting such investigations, the results must greatly contribute to our
+acquaintance with the laws regulating atmospherical phenomena.</p>
+
+<p>One very deserving institution dedicated to the noble object of awakening
+a sense of the beautiful, and furthering the interests of science, is the
+Australian Museum. All that this glorious country presents of interesting
+and useful in the three great divisions of nature is here being gradually
+classified in scientific order, and displayed in elegant cases in spacious
+handsome apartments, the whole thrown open to the public for amusement and
+instruction, free of cost. Already an excellent start has been made with
+valuable collections of conchylia and birds, as well as numerous
+ethnographical specimens and fossil remains. The management of the Museum
+has been confided to the most distinguished
+<!--018.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span>scientific
+men of the
+colony,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> and owing to the deep interest taken by these gentlemen in this
+truly national undertaking, the sphere of its activity is likely ere long
+to be extended to scientific publications, the appearance of which will be
+doubly valuable and important in a country which presents so many
+different objects for investigation and elucidation.</p>
+
+<p>If, however, our knowledge of Australia and its black aboriginal tribes is
+as yet very scanty, it has not assuredly been due to any cold indifference
+on the part of the new settlers for the history of a country and a race of
+men who are rapidly disappearing from the face of the country. It is
+rather to be found in the physical conditions of the continent, and
+especially in the great scarcity of perennial springs. In fact, there is
+hardly any country, with the exception of Africa, the exploration of which
+has cost the lives of so many scientific travellers as this fifth quarter
+of the world. What manly devotion, ardour, and perseverance, characterize
+such names as Leichhardt, Oxley, Kennedy, Eyre, Mitchell, Cunningham,
+Strut, Babbage, Warburton, Stuart, Gregory, Selwyn, MacDonnell, &amp;c.! And
+it may fill a German with honest pride, that one of his race has attained
+the pinnacle of scientific eminence here! The name
+<!--019.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span>of
+Leichhardt is the
+most popular and most highly honoured of the learned names in Australia.
+Repeatedly we heard him spoken of as the Australian Humboldt. Rendered all
+the more eager by the success of his first enterprise, and stimulated by
+the splendid Governmental reward of £10,000 for his last discoveries, the
+indefatigable explorer started from Sydney in 1848, on a second journey,
+in which he intended to examine Western Australia, by crossing from
+Moreton Bay overland, to the West Coast and Port Essington. This proved to
+be the close of his earthly career. All trace of the lamented traveller
+has been lost, and even the admirably equipped expedition sent out by the
+Colonial Government, in March, 1858, under the experienced conduct of Mr.
+Gregory, on the track of Leichhardt, spent long months in fruitless
+wandering, and returned without any more positive information as to the
+destiny of the sorely missed naturalist, except the conjecture that
+Leichhardt and his companions had fallen a victim not to the murderous
+hand of the natives, but to the inhospitable nature of the region they
+were traversing. They seemed to have left the Victoria at its junction
+with the Alice (where it was thought a trace of the travellers was
+discovered in some incisions made in the bark of some trees),<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> and then
+attempted, favoured by
+<!--020.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span>heavy
+storms and showers of rain, to get into the
+flat desert country on the north-west. As, however, the rain shortly
+afterwards ceased, the unfortunate travellers not merely ran short of
+water in prosecuting their dismal journey, but were prevented from
+returning, as the small quantity precipitated by a mere meteoric
+phenomenon would be exhausted in a few days, and it is not easy to suppose
+that such hardy, zealous, and experienced explorers would have failed to
+extricate themselves, had not their courage and physical powers been
+broken down and destroyed by privations of the most terrible nature.</p>
+
+<p>Despite the tragic fate of Leichhardt's expedition and those of other
+explorers,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> new expeditions are continually being
+<!--021.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span>set
+on foot for
+exploring the unknown regions of Australia in every direction, and
+although by far the larger part of the information collected consists
+rather of ghastly recitals of misery and privation endured than positive
+scientific results,<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> yet some of the more recent ones, especially those
+of Stuart
+<!--022.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span>and
+Burke, have made also important discoveries in the
+interior; and in view of the impulse which the lamentable state of
+American politics threatens to impart to cotton-growing everywhere, the
+highly fertile banks of the Murray, which with a very little labour might
+be made navigable far into the interior, may at no distant period be
+covered with numerous cotton plantations.</p>
+
+<p>While the younger and more adventurous spirits enter with all their heart
+and soul upon these dangerous experiences of rude hardship, there is in
+the capital of the colony a not less marked scientific vitality, and the
+valuable libraries and private collections of the Governor-general, Sir
+Wm. Denison, Mr. W. Macleay, the botanist, Dr. George Bennett, physician
+and geologist,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> Dr. Roberts, microscopist, Messrs. W. B. Clarke and
+Selwyn, geologists, as well as their various and valuable contributions to
+science, exercise a doubly important and beneficial influence upon a
+number of contiguous states so peculiarly organized as those of Australia,
+which, first penal settlements, and then gold-fields, seemed to have been
+deprived of all those favourable conditions, which elsewhere are usually
+supposed to be requisite for the development of intellectual and
+scientific
+activity.<!--023.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Much has also been done already in Australia for the diffusion of the
+principles of social economy and the diffusion of political and linguistic
+knowledge; and the historical writings of Dr. J. D. Lang,<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> and the
+philological works of Dr. Threlkeld, both men of high attainments and of
+similar zeal in promoting the welfare of their fellow-men, furnished us
+with profound information as to the political history of the country, as
+well as the original language of the aborigines.</p>
+
+<p>Since the appearance of the first ethnographic works of Count Strzelecki
+there has appeared little that is new respecting the origin, migration,
+and history of the black races of Australia, and what we have to say on
+this momentous topic, whether in the result of personal intercourse or of
+information derived from other sources, we shall reserve for the narrative
+of our excursion into the interior of the colony, and our foregathering
+with the primitive inhabitants of the back settlements.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13"
+class="fnanchor">[13]</a>
+<!--024.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Among the excursions in the immediate neighbourhood of Sydney we at once
+selected a visit to the well-known naturalist Mr. Macleay, who resides at
+a beautiful estate near Elizabeth Bay. In his beautiful garden one sees
+the most interesting plants of Australia side by side with splendid
+specimens from all other parts of the world. A stroll through the
+extensive grounds derives a double interest when in company with its
+highly-cultivated proprietor, and we are the more grateful for this good
+fortune, as the venerable old gentleman lives in strict seclusion.</p>
+
+<p>Another very interesting visit was that paid to Sir Daniel Cooper at his
+residence on Rose Bay (<i>Wullurah</i>).<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> Sir Daniel is of humble parentage,
+but fell heir to property which made him the wealthiest man in the colony,
+and which he now dispenses with the most noble and hospitable profusion.
+During the Crimean war he subscribed £1000 per annum towards defraying the
+costs. Lately he has been elected speaker of the Legislative Assembly,
+when he was knighted by her Majesty. His villa in Rose Bay, when
+completed, promised to be surpassed by few mansions of the English
+nobility in elegance and
+comfort.<!--025.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Close to the palatial residence of the wealthiest resident of Australia,
+and clad in a filthy woollen coat, with an old hat on his head, crouches
+Rickety Dick, a wretched crippled native, the sole survivor of his tribe,
+once the lord of all this country, who now stretches out his horny hand to
+receive charity. Rickety Dick, who can only talk Australian, lives under a
+bark thatch, and leads a mendicant life, and this not owing to downright
+destitution, but because such a lazy mode of existence suits him better
+than a residence within the walls of a Poor's House. He finds himself more
+comfortable here, and cannot bear to quit the soil on which he has passed
+the greater portion of his miserable existence. Sir Daniel lets this last
+scion of a decayed race want for nothing, and gratifies every wish that
+the poor half idiot can form.</p>
+
+<p>One excursion which no stranger omits to make is a ride to the monument
+erected to La Pérouse at Botany Bay, a pretty good road to which passes
+through beautiful woods full of magnificent oaks, as also of <i>Eucalyptus</i>,
+or gum tree, so characteristic of Australia, <i>Casuarina</i>, or cabbage tree,
+<i>Xanthorrhea</i>, <i>Acacias</i>, and various descriptions of <i>Epacris</i>. The
+monument itself stands on an open cleared space, in what is known as
+"Frenchmen's Gardens" (because, according to tradition, the soldiers had
+raised a few vegetables here), and is a plain sandstone obelisk about 30
+feet high, standing on a pedestal and crowned with an iron globe, within
+an enclosure about 35 feet square, bounded by a parapet wall of from three
+to five feet
+high.<!--026.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The inscription, which is in French, and on the south side facing the sea,
+runs as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+A la Mémoire de M. de La Pérouse. Cette terre, qu'il visita en
+1778, est la dernière d'où il a fait parvenir de ses nouvelles.
+Erigé au nom de la France, par les soins de M. M. de
+Bougainville et Ducampier commandant la Fregatte "La Thétis" et
+la corvette "Espérance" en relâche au port Jackson en 1825.
+</div>
+
+<p>On the north side is an English translation of the above, and on the west
+a French translation of the English inscription on the east side.
+"Foundation laid 1825. Completed 1828."</p>
+
+<p>Close by this simple monument, more interesting owing to the subsequent
+fate of the renowned French navigator than by its merits as a work of art,
+is Botany Tower, a sort of look-out for the whole coast-line. This
+octangular tower stands quite by itself, and commands a magnificent and
+extensive view over Botany Bay. To the N.W. one perceives a flagstaff of
+Banks's establishment, a pleasure resort of the Sydneyites, which, on
+account of its small zoological garden, is likewise of some scientific
+interest. S.E., on the opposite side of Mud Bay, is visible the point of
+land where Captain Cook, accompanied by Banks and Solander, first trod the
+soil of Australia. Among the sandstone rocks adjoining, a brass tablet,
+with a suitable inscription, commemorates this interesting fact.</p>
+
+<p>The botanical garden attracted very much of the attention of the
+scientific staff. It possesses, next to that of Buitenzorg (see vol. ii.
+p. 204), the largest and most valuable collection we saw throughout our
+voyage. In addition to its splendid specimens
+<!--027.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span>of
+<i>coniferæ</i> and the
+incomparable Dammara pine-tree; it also enjoys well-merited celebrity for
+its successful rivalry with that of Java in rare specimens of palms. The
+climate of Sydney is admirably adapted for experimenting on the
+cultivation of plants from the most various parts of the world; and while
+in one part of this garden we find the plants of every clime, which
+flourish here in great luxuriance, another portion is dedicated
+exclusively to the cultivation of Australian trees and canes. At the
+entrance stands a magnificent <i>Araucaria excelsa</i>, like a sentinel on
+guard over this singular vegetable world. A gigantic <i>Grevillea robusta</i>
+attracts the eye by the striking tint of its luxuriant orange-yellow
+blossoms, shining with indescribable charm through the dark green of the
+foliage. <i>Banksias</i>, <i>Casuarinas</i>, different species of <i>Callitris</i>,
+<i>Xanthorrhea</i>, <i>Proteaceæ Eucalypti</i>, the beautiful <i>Telopea
+speciosissima</i>, the giant lily (<i>Doryanthes excelsa</i>), and many others
+indigenous to the Australian continent, such as never meet the European's
+gaze, or, at all events, only very rarely in forcing houses, here arrest
+the attention by their towering forms, their elegant foliage, and their
+grand proportions, as compared with their brethren of northern climes. One
+species of weeping willow (<i>Salex Babylonica</i>), which grows here in the
+utmost luxuriance, has a special historic interest, as it was a shoot from
+the well-known willow that overshadowed the grave of Bonaparte at St.
+Helena. Through the obliging attention of the superintendent of the
+garden, Mr. Charles Moore, who spared neither trouble nor pains to afford
+us all the assistance in his power, our collection
+<!--028.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span>of
+Australian flora is
+exceedingly plentiful and valuable. It consists not merely of a
+comprehensive collection of Australian seeds and useful woods, but also of
+some species of living plants, forwarded to Europe in what is known as
+Ward's chest. At the same time we were successful in procuring and
+sending, in accordance with his request, to Professor Rochleder, in
+Prague, a Fellow of the Imperial Academy of Science, some 50 or 60 lbs. of
+the raw <i>Epacris Grandiflora</i>, as also a small quantity of <i>Casuarina
+equisetifolia</i>, for the purpose of chemical experiments, especially with
+regard to the relations of chemistry with the geographical distribution of
+plants.</p>
+
+<p>At last, on 16th November, we were able to make out our long-projected
+excursion to Campbelton, 33 miles distant, over a tolerably good, usually
+somewhat flat, country, traversed by railroad in about two hours.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival at this small but most industrious village we found,
+awaiting our arrival, our hospitable friend, Sir W. Macarthur, who took us
+to his estate adjoining, called Camden Park. Sir William belongs to one of
+the most distinguished families in the colony, and enjoys the double
+reputation of being at once the most important wine-grower of Australia,
+and of having the best wine in his cellar.</p>
+
+<p>We drove to our host's house through very pretty scenery, and thus had a
+fresh opportunity of satisfying ourselves of the strange inaccuracy of
+former travellers, who related that the leaves in Australia were of wood
+and the stems of iron, that the bees had no stings, the birds no wings,
+and hair
+<!--029.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span>instead
+of feathers, the flowers no fragrance, the birds no
+melody, and the trees, like so many Peter Schlemils, no shadow. Although
+Nature has been guilty of some few freaks both in Australia and in New
+Zealand, and has created some extraordinary animals, such, for example, as
+the duck-billed platypus (<i>ornithorrhynchus paradoxus</i>), the ant-eater,
+the kiwi, &amp;c., these are but exceptions, and there are here but few
+differences to be remarked in either the animal or vegetable world, such
+as should distinguish it for extravagance beyond all other countries. In
+Australia there are birds that sing, and odoriferous trees and flowers in
+great profusion, and the forests, at those places whither the axe of the
+busy settler has not yet penetrated or imparted to it a park-like aspect,
+are as dense, as thickly clothed with underwood, and as difficult to make
+one's way through, as in any other quarter of the globe under a similar
+latitude.</p>
+
+<p>Close beside the elegant residence of Sir William are extensive vineyards,
+to superintend which he imported German vine-dressers from the Rheingau.
+Each of these families has his own hut, a plot of garden ground, and in
+addition to rations of milk, bread, and butter, receives £25 per annum
+wages. When these good folks heard that strangers, compatriots of theirs,
+were among them, with whom they could converse in their mother-tongue, a
+dozen or so at once assembled to bid us welcome. Most of these betrayed a
+certain amount of hesitation in expressing themselves in their own
+language, and, like the same class in Pennsylvania, whenever
+<!--030.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span>they
+were at
+a loss for a word supplied it by its English equivalent. There resulted
+from this a most comical jargon, sometimes most grotesque in its
+eccentricity, as, for instance, when, on our remarking to one of these
+vine-dressers who had been in Australia for ten years that he seemed to
+have quite forgotten his German, he replied, with an air of outraged
+national dignity, "Oh no! <i>wir</i> keep it <i>immer</i> in exercise."</p>
+
+<p>The entire number of Germans in New South Wales is estimated (in 1858) at
+7000. They are usually settled on the larger rivers, such as Hunter,
+Clarence, Brisbane rivers, where they have small farms on the alluvial
+soil, or are engaged in agriculture, or vine cultivation. Their industry,
+perseverance, and frugality soon make them independent and well-to-do. We
+were told of one poor peasant of the Rhenish districts, named
+Frauenfelder, who arrived here from Germany, in 1849, with twelve
+daughters, and settled on Clarence river as a vine-dresser. After ten
+years of unwearied activity he became a prosperous man, got all his
+daughters well married, and now owns one of the most flourishing
+settlements in the entire colony.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> A German enjoys in Australia, after
+five years' residence, the same political rights as the English. After
+twelve months he becomes naturalized and may possess land; after three
+years he may vote; and after five years' residence he may become a member
+of Parliament. Should there be
+<!--031.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span>anything
+specially affecting German
+interests in the colony, they can at least influence one vote in
+Parliament. The reason why the number of Germans in Australia is yet so
+small is undoubtedly owing to the high price of land. The same quantity
+which can be purchased in the United States for one dollar costs £1 here,
+and this solely because the Colonial Government contracted a loan in
+former days with the wealthier colonists, for which they pledged the land,
+which was taken at £1 per acre; this has never been paid off, so that the
+mortgagee is virtually the proprietor of the soil, without Government
+being in a position to profit by its contract or get rid of its
+liabilities. It thus has become necessary for them to enhance the value of
+the land, and this seems to be the chief difficulty in the way of lowering
+the acreage price, to the manifest encouragement of emigration and the
+cultivation of the soil.</p>
+
+<p>Sir William conducted us, now on horseback, now on foot, now in his
+carriage, over his extensive domain, and did not fail to acquaint us with
+the details of everything that could be interesting or useful. Wine
+cultivation in Australia, though only first raised into importance in
+1838, has made such rapid strides, and has proved so profitable, that in
+no long time England, hitherto so deficient in wines, will be enabled
+through her colonies to vie with the choicest vintages of Europe; for
+those of Australia and the Cape are little inferior even now in body and
+<i>bouquet</i> to those of Spain, and it is only the smallness of the quantity
+hitherto manufactured, and almost entirely reserved
+<!--032.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span>for
+private
+consumption, that has stood in the way of their being much more
+extensively dealt in European markets. The entire product of wine in 1858
+was 60,000 gallons, but the reason why the quantity is so limited is not
+in the unsuitability of the land devoted to it, but the great difficulty
+of procuring labour, and of getting it at the precise moment when it is
+most wanted. As often as the journals launch forth upon the discovery of
+some fresh gold-field, the field hands forthwith strike work, and make off
+to the "diggings." On such occasions many thousand men are suddenly
+smitten with the gold fever, and their ordinary avocations are at once
+abandoned. We saw on one occasion a number of half-finished houses, which
+had been left in that incomplete state by the thirst for gold of the
+labourers, who are omnipotent here. "There are no greater tyrants than the
+labourers of this country," was Sir William's pithy remark, as he looked
+sadly on their work, abandoned unfinished, and the half-cultivated fields
+around.</p>
+
+<p>Our host made us taste various descriptions of wine, which in every
+respect greatly resembled sherry, while a redder sort strongly reminded us
+of Muscat. Even in Australia, the grape has already been attacked by that
+mysterious disease which has done such mischief in various parts of
+Europe, and especially in Madeira, but its noxious effects have as yet
+been confined to a few species only. Much damage is occasionally done by a
+species of worm, for the extirpation of which boys are engaged at from
+1<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> per diem. The
+<!--033.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span>vintage
+in Australia usually begins in March
+and lasts till far on in April.</p>
+
+<p>We passed a short hour very agreeably in Sir William's study, which
+comprises a library full of valuable particulars as to the history of the
+country. At every moment the traveller from long-settled countries, feels
+an emotion of surprise at the numerous and costly collections of rare
+works and valuable cabinets of natural history he finds in a country where
+he might expect that the universal rush after earthly dross must render
+such pursuits valueless. The fact is, that in forming an estimate of the
+country he is almost certain to omit taking into account that, in addition
+to the convicts and gold-diggers, there have come out hither a
+considerable number of young men of the highest circles of English
+society, who, provided by Government with tracts of land for settling
+upon, are in hopes of more speedily attaining fortune and position than in
+England, where the younger sons of the aristocracy are in too many
+instances apt to lead a sauntering life of dependency. Such cadets of
+leading families have, since the commencement of the present century,
+settled in considerable numbers in various parts of Australia, and have
+introduced with them that taste for combined elegance and comfort, which
+the foreign traveller in that country has such reason to feel surprise at,
+as well as to be thankful for.</p>
+
+<p>After our visit to Camden Park we spent the rest of the day at Campbelton,
+making preparations to continue our
+<!--034.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span>excursion
+as far as Appin and
+Wulongong, in the district of Illawara. From Campbelton to Appin is a
+distance of 12 miles, by a tolerably wide level road, partly through
+cultivated farms, partly through forest scenery. We encountered but one
+vehicle the whole distance, containing a family dressed in their best, to
+accompany a body to the grave&mdash;probably some father or sister. "A funeral
+in the bush," said our driver to us with a somewhat serious face, as he
+called our attention to the cart moving on slowly through the stillness of
+the wood. In a simple little forest hut, whose inhabitants are engaged in
+avocations that necessarily imply the closest daily intimacy, the stroke
+of death must fall with redoubled severity, as he strikes down some of the
+dearest and best beloved.</p>
+
+<p>When we reached Appin the day was already too far spent to admit of our
+reaching Wulongong, the end of our journey, the same evening. Uninviting
+as was the filth of the little village ale-house where we alighted, we had
+to make the best of its accommodations, as it was the only inn in the
+place. The dialect which now saluted our ears unmistakeably proved that we
+were domiciled in an Irish house. The people were by no means poor, they
+possessed an extensive "run" near the hotel, but it is part of the
+character of Irish settlers to be superior to the virtues of cleanliness
+and order. Quite close at hand began the forest, a visit to which was
+rewarded by the capture of several species of birds peculiar to New South
+Wales, among others
+<!--035.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span>the
+laughing jack-ass (<i>Dacelo gigantea</i>) and the
+beautiful blue-black atlas bird (<i>Kitta holosericea</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The following morning we resumed our journey through lofty, dense, and
+magnificent forests, in which the vast trunks of gum trees imparted their
+special character to the scenery. One of the most beautiful points of view
+in this delightful drive was when we crossed Sir Thomas Mitchell's, or
+Broughton's, Pass, which has been cut through the gigantic rocks of a
+mountain-range at considerable expense and labour, presenting at every
+turn a fresh and more beautiful grouping of rock and mountain fringed with
+fir and gum, reminding us somewhat of the romantic savage solitudes of the
+Alps.</p>
+
+<p>On our way to the coast we passed but one solitary farm, consisting of a
+couple of wretched wooden huts, thatched with bark, standing on a clearing
+named Bargo, where the mail-boy on his way from Appin changes horses, and
+remains for a few hours over-night. We merely took some coffee, and were
+not a little surprised at finding it presented to us in a fashion in
+strong contrast with the rude exterior of this forest hut. Sheffield and
+Wedgwood wares in the bush, and English ships constructed of Australian
+timber&mdash;such is the secret of English political economy!</p>
+
+<p>Not far from Bargo we enter upon troublesome sand wastes, at one point of
+which the traveller enjoys a wonderfully extensive prospect over the
+Illawara lake, the Keira range, and the sea, especially if, as was our
+case, he is accompanied by intelligent <i>ciceroni</i> acquainted with the
+<!--036.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span>country,
+otherwise he is likely to pass this little elevation, only a few
+paces from the road, little dreaming of the magnificent landscape which he
+is missing.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as we got to the coast we once more encountered fan-palms,
+tree-ferns, and other representatives of tropical vegetation, the last few
+hours of our road towards the little port lying through scenes of
+Eden-like loveliness. About 3 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> of the 18th November we reached
+Wulongong.</p>
+
+<p>We again fell in here with Sir William Macarthur, who had undertaken a
+very arduous ride through the forests around Wulongong for the purpose of
+collecting some tree-ferns, which he intended sending to England. Few
+nations have such a thorough appreciation of nature as the English, or
+exert themselves so unselfishly, by personal observation and indefatigable
+energy, to enlarge the acquaintance of mankind with natural history in all
+its different ramifications. Men in every grade of life take a pleasure in
+hunting out rare species of plants, animals, or minerals, in the remotest
+districts of the globe, which they transmit to their own country, or
+publish such observations respecting them as may make them available for
+science, handicraft-industry, or commerce. By these incidental voluntary
+contributions to the general stock, England now possesses scientific
+collections such as hardly any nation can hope to keep up short of an
+enormous expense. These endeavours, it is true, are considerably favoured
+and supported by the fact of British colonies being scattered over the
+entire earth, but
+<!--037.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span>even
+in this respect it must be conceded that it is
+through her own meritorious, unselfish policy that circumstances thus
+combine to aid her efforts in this peculiar direction.</p>
+
+<p>Wulongong is a hamlet consisting of a few streets, and its principal
+resources seem to be in the visits of the Sydneyites, who come hither for
+sea-bathing. Already the existence of several hotels, which, considering
+the size of the place, are unusually elegant and extensive, but at the
+same time extremely costly, shows that Wulongong must be rather
+extensively patronized by the inhabitants of the capital, with which it
+has regular communication by small steamers, making the voyage in a few
+hours. Unfortunately Wulongong has no convenient harbour, but only a small
+exposed roadstead, rendered barely safe for a few small vessels by a stone
+bulwark, so that in the event of rough weather the landing and embarkation
+of visitors is attended with much discomfort.</p>
+
+<p>We alighted at the Brighton Hotel, prettily situated on the sea-coast, and
+met here our newly-acquired Australian friend, Mr. Edward Hill, a
+brother-in-law of Sir D. Cooper's, who, with his usual kindness and
+forethought, had made all possible preparations for ensuring that our
+further flying visit to the Illawara district should be one of the most
+memorable episodes of our stay in the colony. Mr. Hill, an Australian by
+birth, may, through the peculiar circumstances of his life, his striking
+observations on and profound sympathy with the blacks, be considered one
+of those most
+<!--038.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span>profoundly
+acquainted with that remarkable race, whose
+idiom, as spoken in this district, he can converse in with the utmost
+fluency. For this gentleman's attention we were indebted not merely for
+repeated opportunities of intercourse with the natives, but also for the
+excitement, to us thoroughly novel, of a kangaroo-hunt.</p>
+
+<p>A number of natives were living in an improvised sort of settlement
+outside the town, and camped around the forest under low sheds of bark. At
+a little distance off Mr. Hill uttered a sharp, shrill whistle, which was
+immediately responded to from the forest. Presently two young natives made
+their appearance, and shook hands with Mr. Hill. An old man with grey hair
+remained cowering upon the ground without stirring. There were altogether
+four men, two women, and two children, all pretty well made, their skin of
+a black or dull brown hue, broad nostrils, and black crisp hair, which,
+however, had nothing woolly in its texture. One of the women carried a
+child, whose features and complexion were obviously the result of white
+parentage on one side. However, she did not seem, as is the case with
+other races that are proud of their colour, to be looked down upon on that
+account by her own race, who, so low is their standard of morality, rather
+consider it an honour for a black woman to bear a child to a white. Men
+and women alike showed on their skins the protuberant cicatrices of
+artificial incisions, two or three inches long, chiefly on the breast,
+arms, and
+back.<!--039.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span></p>
+
+<p>All the male natives with whom we conversed had had the upper central
+teeth knocked out, such being one distinguishing mark of their having
+attained the dignity of manhood!</p>
+
+<p>The abundance of mustachio and beard of the Australian savages is a marked
+peculiarity, which none of their cognate races east or west have in common
+with them. We were also told that they value the beard as their highest
+ornament, and make it one of the great objects of their life to tend it.
+No man of their race dare marry or kill an emu till he can show a beard,
+to which also great virtue is attached in battle. None of these natives
+understand the use of the Boomerang.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p>
+
+<p>The natives around Port Jackson and in the Illawara district have,
+generally speaking, little of the aboriginal about them, and their abject
+misery and addiction to drink make them pitiable and disgusting objects;
+for their present hopeless state is in great measure attributable to their
+contact with civilization, which has made them neither intelligent nor
+industrious. The natives, however, of the banks of the Murray, Clarence,
+and Brisbane rivers, though of the same race, are of a very different
+appearance. They keep up the habits of their ancestors, and seldom come in
+contact with
+<!--040.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span>civilization,
+and even then only with its pioneers, the
+squatters and shepherds. Among these the customs of circumcision and
+unlimited polygamy are universal, each man having as many wives as he can
+steal or support. Owing, however, to their nomad life, this system is
+practised to but a limited extent. Infanticide, especially of female
+children, is of very frequent occurrence. Abortion is also so frequently
+practised that they have a word (<i>Mibra</i>) to express it! On the other
+hand, we read in Count Strzelecki's valuable work that "the female natives
+after illicit commerce with a white man become barren for their own race,"
+which, according to all unbiased observers, is a complete delusion.</p>
+
+<p>In no part of Australia do the natives cultivate the soil. Nomad as is
+their mode of life, they live almost exclusively on the products of the
+chase, or of the deep, according as they live in the interior or on the
+coast. Lizards, snakes, and insects, and some few roots and resinous
+substances, form the delicacies of their primitive cookery.</p>
+
+<p>Their dwellings are either natural cavities in the rock, or a few pieces
+of bark fixed into the ground at either end, and arched upwards in the
+middle. Throughout New South Wales the custom prevails, when a native dies
+young, of burying him under a shallow mound of earth, only the elders
+possessing the privilege of being consumed with fire. In the latter case
+the corpse of the deceased, with his hunting and fishing implements, is
+placed on a pile of dry wood about three feet high, with his face towards
+the rising sun. This is
+<!--041.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span>covered
+by the surviving relatives with straw and
+wood, who then set fire to the funeral pyre. Some days later the ashes and
+calcined bones are collected and burnt. The name of the dead is never
+again pronounced, any individual of the same tribe, who may also happen to
+bear it, being compelled to exchange it for another.</p>
+
+<p>The prevalence of cannibalism is a well-established fact among the natives
+of the north. M. Angas, amongst other interesting particulars, mentioned
+one case, where a boy died in the vicinity of Moreton Bay, whose head and
+skin, according to the savage habits of the natives, were separated from
+the rest of his body and dried over a fire. The father and mother were
+both present and uttered loud cries. The heart, liver, and entrails were
+divided among the warriors, who carried away with them pieces stuck on
+their bone-pointed spears; while the upper part of the thigh (apparently
+the tit-bit) was roasted and eaten by the parents themselves! The skin,
+the skull, and the bones were, on the other hand, carefully packed up and
+taken away with them in their grass sacks. It is not unusual for a mother
+to devour her own child, that she may thereby regain the strength which
+the fruit of her womb has abstracted from her! When a warrior of a hostile
+tribe falls into their hands they celebrate his sacrifice with savage
+glee, by rubbing their bodies with the fat around their victim's kidneys,
+by which means they believe they strengthen their muscles and inspire
+their hearts with courage. In the southern parts
+<!--042.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span>of
+Australia the natives
+use human skulls as drinking cups, and one instance is on record where a
+portion of a human skeleton was habitually used by an entire race as a
+tool. Each woman has one of these bone calabashes, which she usually has
+hollowed-out and manufactured herself. In the tolerably comprehensive
+ethnographic collection of the Australian Museum we saw several examples
+of these hideous drinking vessels! With respect to the idea of a future
+life, or the immortality of the soul, the natives seem to have very
+contracted notions, principally confined to a superstitious dread of evil
+spirits, and to the very singular notion that after death they are
+converted into whites, and that the Englishmen who now people their
+hunting grounds are the spirits of their ancestors thus transformed!</p>
+
+<p>At various parts of the colony, especially among the outlying mountains
+and bare rocks adjoining Middle Harbour, Camp Cove, Point Piper, Mossman's
+Cove, Lang's Cove, &amp;c., the eye is attracted by numbers of rude sculptures
+hewn in the stone, which usually represent terrestrial objects, such as
+kangaroos, emus, flying-squirrels, fish, tortoises, and, above all,
+numerous representations of natives performing the <i>Coróborry</i>. This is a
+sort of war-dance, in which those who participate usually paint their
+bodies with white lines, like a skeleton, and seen through the obscurity
+of night, leaping around a faint fire, have the appearance of a set of
+dead bodies dancing.</p>
+
+<p>If we ask any of the black men of the present generation
+<!--043.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span>the
+significance
+of these rock sculptures, they usually reply, in their broken English,
+"Black fellow make 'em long time ago," and on being pressed more
+particularly as to their age, they throw up their hands and faces, shut
+their eyes, and say, "Murrey, murrey, murrey, long time ago!"</p>
+
+<p>The great variety of theories commonly received as to the supposed origin
+of this singular race of men have done little to dispel the obscurity
+which prevails as to the real <i>stirps</i> of which the Australian race is a
+branch. Writers who are fond of squaring facts with pre-conceived theories
+maintain that the first inhabitants of Australia came from Eastern Asia or
+the Indian Archipelago, and passing Torres Straits gradually overspread
+the entire Australian continent. Nay, some even go so far as to maintain
+that there exists to this time in the interior of some of the islands of
+the Malay Archipelago a race of men identical with the aborigines of
+Australia. And it certainly is a remarkable fact, that most of the
+Australian war-songs, dances, &amp;c., have been diffused from north to south,
+although it does seem venturesome to deduce from this single circumstance
+a migration from Eastern Asia. Others again hold (such, namely, as
+Prichard, Wappaus, Burdach, &amp;c.), that the aborigines are of the same race
+as that inhabiting New Guinea and New Caledonia, and thus make them of the
+same stock as the Australasian negro. Lastly, a modern naturalist, Mr.
+James Brown, who lived sixteen years amongst the blacks, considers it not
+improbable that some Malay crews (for since time immemorial it is known
+that
+<!--044.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span>the
+Malays have been acquainted with, and visited the northern
+shores of, Australia) had been, by shipwreck or some similar calamity,
+cast away on the coast of the mainland, or on some of the islands near
+Torres Straits, and had thus become the first involuntary settlers of the
+north of Australia. This increasing population gradually spread over the
+interior, and when after some centuries this people had traversed the
+continent and arrived at the ocean on its further side, they had already
+lost all recollection of their Pelagic origin, and were no longer capable
+of deriving any advantage from the sea spread before their astonished
+gaze. Strange to say, the black populations of Australia seem to be the
+sole savage race inhabiting the coast of an ocean, who possess no means of
+transport by water, and are unable to swim! Very possibly the recent
+expeditions into the interior, undertaken with such ardour and attention
+to details, may throw some new light upon these aborigines, but equally,
+if not more, probable is it, that the entire race may have disappeared
+from the earth before any reliable facts can be ascertained respecting
+their origin, their migrations, or their history.</p>
+
+<p>The morning after our arrival at Wulongong, and our first acquaintance
+with the natives, we made an excursion, under the tutelage of Mr. White,
+to Balgonie Farm, to hunt kangaroo in the forests of the neighbourhood. It
+was not, however, the large species (<i>Macropus Major</i>) we were to hunt,
+which sometimes attains a height of six feet, or even more, but a smaller
+kind known as the Wallaby (<i>Halmaturus ualabatus</i>).
+<!--045.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span>The
+kangaroo proper
+have long since retreated before civilization, and are now only found in
+the recesses of the forest, hundreds of miles inland. The various
+participators in the hunt were posted at certain distances in one of the
+splendid forests, stretching between the Bellambi-Keira and Kemla ranges
+of hills, while the blacks who accompanied us set forth to drive the game
+towards us, assisted by their Dingoes, a kind of dog usually supposed to
+be originally of European race. The blacks use the term "Dingo"
+promiscuously for every description of dog, whereas the regular wild dog,
+or rather the dog that runs wild in Australia, is called in the native
+tongue "Warrigul," and is of no particular breed, but seems rather a
+mongrel descendant of the sheep dog.</p>
+
+<p>The hunt was not very successful, and of some ten or twelve started by the
+"beaters," only two were killed. Although one can discern the Wallaby at
+some distance by its plashing tramp, so that it seems but to need a glance
+of the eye to bring it down as it flies past on its hind legs, followed
+close by the dogs, it yet needs great activity and precision of aim to hit
+the nimble animal as it hops swiftly past.</p>
+
+<p>Yet though we were rewarded with such poor sport, our stay among the
+splendid woods of the Keira range sufficiently repaid us. The most varied
+and luxuriant forms of vegetation, changing at every step, almost
+transcend the wanderer's power of description by their marvellous and
+enrapturing beauty. Some portions of the forest landscape, where splendid
+<!--046.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span>tree-ferns
+and gigantic gum trees, enveloped in the folds of the Liana,
+from which in its turn depended exquisite parasitic plants, reminded us of
+the brilliant profusion of the tropics. Not less peculiar and uncommon
+than the vegetation were the sounds that struck our ear from amid the
+semi-obscure green covert, without our eyes being able to distinguish the
+singers. And so deceptive are some of these, that one almost involuntarily
+starts as the loud crack resounds close to his ear of the <i>Phsophodes
+crepitans</i>, known to colonists as the "Coachman's whip," or the <i>Myzantha
+Garrula</i>, or bell-bird, sounds its bell-like note.</p>
+
+<p>During our stroll we came upon several farms, plain wooden huts covered
+with the glutinous bark of the gum tree, whose impoverished exterior gave
+little promise of the comfort to be found within, and pleasantest of all
+was the ready and heartfelt hospitality. Hardly had we set our foot within
+a hut, ere all the members of the family bestirred themselves to bring
+milk and butter, eggs and bread, of which they pressed us to partake. In
+each we visited there was no lack of beautiful china, elegantly carved
+wine glasses, and Sheffield table cutlery, while the walls were decorated
+with elegant engravings and wood-cuts. The bread was usually the national
+institution, known as "Damper," which is simply some meal and water well
+mixed and heated in warm ashes. It is very palatable, and besides the
+simplicity of its preparation, the meal well kneaded being baked for an
+hour as aforesaid, it possesses
+<!--047.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span>the
+advantage of continuing for a
+considerable time fit for use.</p>
+
+<p>Our return to Sydney was fixed for the following morning. We were desirous
+of catching the steamer which plies from Wulongong every second day, as
+our Commodore, and several of the scientific staff, had received an
+invitation for the evening at Sydney. As the steamer would first of all
+start towards noon from Keiama, we employed the hours of morning in a
+visit to the coal mines of the Keira, and hunting in the adjoining
+forests. Coal is very abundant in these mines, and is wheeled along a
+level shaft in small waggons as far as the high road, whence it is
+conveyed by regular carts to the city. About 200 of these are brought up
+every day.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately our plan for returning by the steamer fell through, as a
+high wind and heavy sea rendered the entrance of the boat into the harbour
+a very problematical business. Accordingly, as the boat had not made her
+appearance by 4 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, there was nothing for it but to return by coach to
+Appin, so as to enable us to reach Sydney in time for our invitation. The
+cool of evening began now to be felt among the lofty steep hills, over
+which lies the road to the interior. At first all went well, and the early
+part of our journey was performed in all comfort and at a rapid pace. But
+we soon came to some very steep parts of the road, where our tired horses
+gave out, and could not proceed one step further. By this time we had left
+the coach, and went on on foot, shooting and
+<!--048.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span>collecting
+as we proceeded,
+and admiring the beauty of the landscape around. The coach had stuck fast
+half-way up a steep ridge, while the horses took no heed of the servants'
+flagellation. The coarse language in which Mr. Croker, the very type in
+this respect of an English driver, exhorted Billy and Sam (so were our two
+steeds named), and the frequent song of the whip, availed nothing; the
+animals would not budge a step; so we had to lend our assistance in
+person, and move the vehicle a few paces farther to a less dangerous
+position.</p>
+
+<p>Further progress, under the circumstances, was out of the question. It was
+resolved to send man and horse back to Wulongong to engage additional
+horses, and continue our walk as far as the huts at Bargo, the next
+station, 18 miles distant. <i>En route</i>, or at Bargo, it was supposed our
+coachman would overtake us with fresh horses. As we were by no means sure
+of our road, we took the precaution of carrying our most necessary
+effects, in the event of our having to pass the night in the bush.</p>
+
+<p>It was 6.30 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, and the sun was going down, only the extreme summits of
+the trees catching and reflecting his golden beams. On we went, our
+excitement stimulated by the prospect of an adventure. Gradually the
+darkness of night enveloped the wood. Our path became uncertain. Even the
+full splendour of the moon, as she rose in the east, and darted her silver
+rays through the gloom of the <i>Eucalypti</i>, casting gigantic shadows on the
+sandy soil, rather
+<!--049.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span>tended
+to confuse us amid this labyrinth than enable
+us to extricate ourselves. We held on however till 1 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span>, and were just
+on the eve of camping for the night to await the break of day, when all at
+once we saw before us the stately fence which surrounds Bargo. With
+quickened steps we made for the lonely little farm, and hammered at its
+closed door. A tremendous chorus of barking dogs was the not very
+propitious welcome of guests arriving at such an unseasonable hour. After
+repeated knocking the door of the hut was opened; an old man appeared in
+his night-shirt on the threshold, and gruffly inquired who we were and
+what we wanted? The reply was not difficult. Our having passed that way
+before, when we had scraped acquaintance with the old gentleman, likewise
+stood us in good stead. We were most cordially received, and, despite the
+lateness of the hour, preparations were at once made to prepare something
+for us to eat. Tea, coffee, eggs, fresh butter, and damper were carried
+into the sitting-room, and as far as was practicable sleeping quarters
+were prepared in the little hut.</p>
+
+<p>The only ill result of our nocturnal fatigues was that we rose late, the
+sun being high in the heavens ere we awoke. We were just about to ask for
+our driver, when he made his appearance, and told us he was ready to
+proceed. He had paid hire for fresh horses at Wulongong, and hoped to make
+the rest of the journey without further interruption. While they were
+being put to, we re-entered the hut, and
+<!--050.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span>now
+perceived the small space
+within which ourselves, three persons, had passed the night on benches,
+chairs, and tables. The light of day did not belie the hospitality of our
+reception. The furniture was rude but clean. What most surprised us was
+the number of massive books which stood on a small shelf, carefully
+arranged. They were by much the most valuable part of the furniture, and
+the proprietor seemed to be aware of this. The books had been the property
+of a schoolmaster, who had exchanged their spiritual contents against
+spirits of another nature. The host gave "tick" to the schoolmaster, and
+thus gradually possessed himself of the entire collection, no
+inconsiderable number, of interesting works, which now passed from hand to
+hand on holidays or after the day's work was over; the desire for
+knowledge of the settlers in this primitive Australian forest thus finding
+ample room to expand itself in many useful and learned particulars of
+foreign lands and peoples.</p>
+
+<p>Towards 1 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> we reached Campbelton. At the hotel where we alighted was
+installed a lodge of Odd Fellows, newly instituted. The first visible
+result of its organization was almost universal intoxication! In the
+streets and the public-houses, everywhere crowds of drunken men were
+staggering about. Every third house in Campbelton is a whisky shop!
+Throughout the colony the consumption of ardent spirits has reached an
+alarming height, being estimated at £6 per head of the entire population
+annually! Besides the spirits manufactured in the colony itself, New South
+Wales imports annually £1,000,000 of wine, beer, brandy, and other
+descriptions
+<!--051.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span>of
+liquor; a greater consumption of spirits than in any
+other country of the globe!<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p>
+
+<p>The rest of our return journey being by rail was performed in two hours.
+The telegraph is in full activity between Campbelton and Sydney, the
+charge for a message of ten words being two shillings, and two-pence for
+each succeeding word. Towards 6 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> we reached Sydney, driving in the
+present instance to the Australian club, where accommodation had in the
+kindest manner been provided for us.</p>
+
+<p>While one section of our staff had been making the excursion southwards
+which we have just described, among the forests and barrens of the
+Illawara district, another party visited the sources of Hunter River and
+the Newcastle coal-fields, whence they returned laden with botanical,
+mineralogical, entomological, and palæontological collections, samples of
+coal, fossil plants, and specimens of the Silurian formations.</p>
+
+<p>The most interesting episode in their excursion was their stay on Ash
+Island, a small isle in the Hunter River, the property of A. W. Scott,
+Esq., M.L.A., who has settled there with his family. Two of his daughters
+are hardly more conspicuous by their loveliness and grace than by their
+profound acquaintance with entomology, which they pursue with the utmost
+zeal. In addition to geological and conchyliological collections, they
+have also a carefully classed collection of insects
+<!--052.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span>and
+butterflies, and
+at the time of our visit were about publishing a large work upon
+Australian butterflies. They also have the lepidopterous <i>fauna</i> of New
+South Wales in great variety and in every stage of metamorphosis, in many
+cases from the very <i>ovum</i>, all copiously explained, and their
+distinguishing characteristics placed beneath in a series of above one
+hundred tables, which the two ladies, who are accomplished artists both in
+drawing and painting, have themselves lithographed and coloured.</p>
+
+<p>An excursion was also made from Ash Island to the Sugar Loaf, 3288 feet
+high, the loftiest mountain in the district. As they had to do 40 miles in
+one day, the party sprang to their horses as soon as day dawned, and,
+accompanied by two settlers of Ash Island, laid themselves out for the
+day's work. First they ascended Hunter River for about a couple of miles,
+which a little further on headed to the northward, while the cavalcade
+kept to the left towards the hills. The forest was so clear of underwood,
+that one could almost ride along as though in a park. Despite the numerous
+traces of extensive fires, it seemed to have been but little altered by
+these from its primitive wildness. Occasionally huts and cultivated land
+were passed; the great proprietors usually give these runs to be
+cultivated as farms, or make them serve for their cattle, under their own
+drovers. In winter the cattle run at will in the "Bush," as the settlers
+call this characteristic scenery, wherever they can find the best pasture
+for themselves. In summer again, when the great heat dries
+<!--053.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span>everything
+up,
+they are foddered with hay under shelter. The sunny forest consists of
+<i>Eucalypti</i>, <i>Melaleuca</i>, and other <i>myrtaceæ</i>, splendid <i>casuarinas</i>,
+<i>Grevilleæ</i>, <i>Banksiæ</i>, the native pear (<i>Hylomelum</i>), the highly prized
+Warratah (<i>Telopea speciosissima</i>), the all but shadowless <i>Acacia</i>, the
+indigenous cherry (<i>Exocarpus</i>), beautiful <i>Papilionaceæ</i>, and very
+peculiar <i>Stylidiæ</i>, &amp;c. All these were old acquaintances however of the
+Austrian naturalists, who greeted them in this their native soil with
+redoubled interest and astonishment. Covered with blossoms they grew in
+wild unchecked profusion all around their path, so that the very horses
+frequently trod them under foot, scenting the air with an aroma which in
+Europe can only be obtained by lavish expenditure. Numerous birds, chiefly
+parrots, circled round the tops of the trees; the crow-like <i>Strepera
+graculina</i>, the bald-headed <i>Tropidorhynchus corniculatus</i> the "Jack ass"
+(<i>Dacela gigantea</i>), so highly regarded and carefully tended by the
+colonists on account of its admonishing them of the presence of poisonous
+serpents, quantities of chaffinches (<i>frigellidæ</i>), the fan-tailed
+flycatcher (<i>Muscipiada</i>), the <i>Climacteris</i>, which runs up and down the
+trunks of the trees like our own wood-pecker, the monitor lizard, four or
+five feet in length, which flits rapidly to and fro among the trees, the
+prickly chameleon, and beautiful specimens of fossil helix, all furnished
+a rich reward for the zoologist.</p>
+
+<p>After a ride of three hours the party began to approach a steep wall of
+rock, where the horses were left, as they had now to prosecute their
+journey on foot, till at length they
+<!--054.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span>came
+to a confused mass of coarse,
+breccia-like sandstone, constituting what is known as the Sugar Loaf,
+whence they had to toil laboriously among the rocks till they reached the
+summit. A marvellous panorama was spread out before them; the whole county
+of Northumberland, with its green forest clothing, was stretched out at
+their feet in all its sunlit splendour. To the left far in the distance
+was visible the township of Maitland, and the navigable part of the Hunter
+River, which wound along like a silver band till it was lost in the
+distance, where it fell into the Pacific, on whose seething billows the
+stately ships looked like small white specks on a confused, uncertain
+back-ground. Far in the distance to the right, half concealed by the
+forest, was Lake Macquarie. The colonial members of the party described
+the latter as very difficult of access, but as a veritable paradise for
+the sportsman, since it is frequented by black swans in hundreds, the
+Australian stork, curlews, the hook-billed creeper, cormorants, and an
+infinite variety of water-fowl. The Blue Mountains formed the back-ground
+of this splendid landscape. The whole neighbourhood is pretty well settled
+and cultivated. Here and there wreaths of blue smoke indicated where the
+huts of industrious colonists lay concealed in the forest. Their
+conductors were not a whit behind the strangers in their appreciation of
+the panoramic effect; they had never scaled the summit before, although
+the elder had lived 15 years at Ash Island, and had often been as far as
+the top of the first rocky ascent in search of strayed
+cattle.<!--055.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Lost in delighted contemplation of the beauties of nature, no account was
+made of the passage of time, so that part of the return journey had to be
+made in the twilight. It was a delightful, clear, moonlight night. The
+deep stillness in nature was only occasionally broken by the shrill cry of
+the curlew (<i>Numenius arquata</i>), from the neighbouring swamps, or the
+rustling of Wallabies disturbed by the tread of the advancing horsemen.
+Buried in a sort of dreamy charm that could find no utterance, the riders
+left their horses to choose their own pace over the sward, hardly able to
+realize that they were indeed under the unclouded brilliancy of an
+Australian sky, traversing the forests haunted by the timid kangaroo and
+the swift but shy emu.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately it was found impossible, owing to want of time, to visit the
+Blue Mountains and the gold regions around Bathurst. We had to content our
+curiosity as to the products of the gold-fields by examining the nuggets
+exhibited by the fortunate finders in the jewellers' shops of George
+Street, Sydney, and the particulars furnished in the daily papers of the
+well-authenticated riches of the gold-fields of the oldest colony. During
+our stay a lump of gold was discovered in the Western district weighing
+150 lbs., and worth £6000. Such instances of good fortune only tend to
+raise fallacious hopes of being equally fortunate in the breasts of
+thousands of men. Shortly before our arrival, on the news being
+promulgated of the new Eldorado in the north near Port Curtis on the
+Fitzroy, not less than 16,000 men flocked
+<!--056.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span>thither
+from New South Wales
+and Victoria. This enormous influx of human beings to a district totally
+unprovided with either shelter or provisions for such a horde resulted in
+unutterable suffering. People had sold their goods in Sydney for whatever
+they would fetch, in order to be the first in the gold-field with the
+requisite implements. Many lost their entire means of support, having even
+sacrificed the most favourable prospects in the eager thirst for gold and
+sudden prosperity. The streets of Melbourne and Sydney were filled with
+gold-seekers, who, laden with blankets, household utensils, axes, and
+spades, were laying down their last farthing for passage tickets, and
+rushed breathlessly to the ships which were to convey them to the
+newly-discovered gold-field. The voyage began under the most rose-coloured
+anticipations of brilliant success. But scarcely a month later came most
+depressing intelligence from Port Curtis. Here was a set of lawless
+desperadoes, deceived in their expectations, without food, clothing, or
+even the object of their search, in a remote part of the country, with the
+hot season coming on, and no means of returning! Men were seen selling for
+a few shillings implements that had cost pounds. The whole road from the
+supposed gold-fields to the landing-quay was strewed with diggers, who,
+footsore and fainting under the heat, were toiling towards the coast,
+where they rushed in wild confusion on board the ships which were to
+convey the victims back to the colonies they had left at so much sacrifice
+and with so extravagant
+expectations!<!--057.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It was only the energetic measures taken by Government, by whom provisions
+were forthwith despatched to the wretched make-shifts of settlements
+improvised on the spur of the moment, and gave numbers free passages to
+Sydney and Melbourne, that prevented some serious disaster. A few months
+later the place so suddenly populous had become once more a despised
+solitude, and Rockhampton had resumed its wonted state of a hamlet
+consisting of two or three houses. In Sydney, however, the famished crowd
+seeking after work kept wandering about, thankfully accepting the soup
+which the charity of their fellow-citizens supplied free of charge.</p>
+
+<p>During these various excursions of the scientific staff, the frigate had,
+thanks to the kindness of H.E. Sir Wm. Denison, been taken into the
+Government dry dock at Cockatoo Island in order to facilitate her
+extensive repairs. The <i>Novara</i> was, as the chief engineer himself
+allowed, the largest man-of-war which had ever been docked, not merely in
+Port Jackson, but anywhere in the Eastern hemisphere.</p>
+
+<p>The Fitzroy dry dock, which had not long been completed, is 300 feet in
+length (since lengthened another 100 feet), 60 feet wide, and will
+accommodate vessels drawing 19 feet water. In preparing this splendid
+structure, which took eight years to complete, a huge rock 50 feet high
+was first blasted, the excavation began on the land-side, and on its
+completion a gate opened towards the sea. All being right thus far, a
+subaqueous mine was sprung by means of large
+<!--058.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span>diving-bells,
+the
+excavations being charged with two or three lbs. of powder. A steam-engine
+of 40-horse power pumps the dock dry,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> besides being geared to set in
+motion the various machinery in the shops, such as lathes, iron planes,
+&amp;c. The dock gates are iron-plated. Although constructed entirely by
+convict labour, the expense was enormous, since to overcome the
+extraordinary difficulty presented by the soil, the entire machinery, down
+to the very smallest tool, had to be imported from England.</p>
+
+<p>The frigate lay about a week in dock. Besides the usual handicraftsmen
+there were upwards of thirty caulkers employed, each of whom was paid
+14<i>s.</i> per diem, net, but the entire cost was 17<i>s.</i> a day, as each man
+was conveyed to and fro, morning and evening, at Government expense. But
+as provisions are high, the workman can save by the end of the week little
+if at all more than the English labourer who does not receive one-third of
+his wages. At present there are on the island 360 prisoners, all such as
+have been sentenced to ten years penal servitude at least. This
+establishment was, however, to be broken up, and the convicts distributed
+among other prisons, so soon as the dock was quite completed.</p>
+
+<p>The main features of a prison reform, contemplated by Sir Wm. Denison,
+with the praiseworthy object not merely of prevention of crime, but of
+ameliorating the moral condition
+<!--059.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span>of
+the criminal, consisted in the
+classification of criminals according to the nature of their
+crime&mdash;co-operative labour during the day, solitary confinement at night,
+and a certain amount of remuneration for work performed, so as to
+stimulate to habits of industry by a visible reward, and a scale of
+dietary barely sufficient to maintain life, any additional delicacy being
+paid for out of the man's own earnings, yet not so as to entirely exhaust
+his wages, the balance of which thus went on accumulating, so as to give
+him a small sum of money in hand, when, his sentence expired, he was set
+at liberty with, it is to be hoped, freshly-acquired habits of industry.
+To facilitate this benevolent plan, Sir William bethought him of erecting
+the prisons in the neighbourhood of Sydney, where there is more of a
+market for convict labour, and recommended the construction of roads. The
+number of prisoners at present in New South Wales is about 1260, whose
+support costs on an average £36,000 per annum. In order to adapt to the
+existing prisons the new system put in operation by the late
+Governor-general, and extend it to 1600 men,<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> there would be required a
+further outlay of £69,000, but one-third of the present annual outlay for
+sustenance would be saved.</p>
+
+<p>On 25th November the <i>Novara</i>, thoroughly overhauled and rejuvenated,
+returned to her former anchorage near Garden Island, and the following day
+commenced a series of festivities, which the German residents at Sydney
+had got up
+<!--060.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span>to
+welcome the Imperial Expedition, commencing with a
+serenade, given by the German Singing-Club, who hired a large steamer, the
+<i>Washington</i>, for the occasion, which they had gaily decorated with
+foliage and coloured lamps. Amidships there was a splendid transparency,
+with the word "Welcome" inscribed in letters of light, above which was a
+very neatly executed Austrian eagle. Upwards of 300 guests shared in the
+fête. At 8 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> the vessel got under weigh from Circular Quay. With the
+first plash of the paddles the music struck up, and the ship glided off,
+as though on the wings of Harmony, towards the grand-looking <i>Novara</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately the weather proved very unfavourable. To an oppressingly
+hot, close, sultry day of entire calm, the thermometer marking 109° Fahr.
+in shade, there had suddenly sprung up a "Brickfielder,"<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> that dreaded
+south wind, which may be considered one of the worst plagues of Sydney,
+owing to the clouds of dust. It now put German patience and German
+good-humour to a severe proof. At each tack of the steamer it blew out a
+whole row of variegated lamps and illuminations, which, however, were as
+perseveringly relit. It had been firmly resolved, however,
+<!--061.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span>to
+let nothing
+mar the success of the festival, and the old indomitable German "pluck"
+came out victorious in its contest with the "Brickfielder." Amid the full
+clangour of the bands of music were heard shouts of jubilant mirth,
+mingled with the howling and whistling of the wind, and the rush and roar
+of rockets, while the occasional firing of Bengal lights shed their magic
+effect over the parti-coloured crowd on board, the ships in harbour, and
+the agitated waters below. At last the steamer got near the frigate, which
+she swept round in a wide graceful curve, and dropped anchor at a little
+distance away. At that moment a considerable number of port-fires were lit
+on board the <i>Novara</i>, bathing the entire scene, including the stately
+ship herself, in an absolute deluge of light, guided by which a number of
+boats put off with the company, who despite the weather were all enabled
+in safety to gratify their curiosity as to the effect of nocturnal
+festivities.</p>
+
+<p>One of the frigate's boats was manned and despatched to the steamer, to
+bring on board the <i>Novara</i> the committee who had been entrusted with the
+presentation of an address.</p>
+
+<p>On board the <i>Novara</i> the utmost excitement prevailed, almost all the
+officers and petty and warrant officers being on deck, the band playing
+nothing but German music. The evening ended as it began, with music and
+melody, such a thoroughly German welcome making a profound impression upon
+the English of Sydney.</p>
+
+<p>The following day the German clubs of Sydney invited
+<!--062.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span>the
+staff to a
+ceremonial banquet, the saloon in which dinner was served being elegantly
+decorated with the flags of the various German states, between which were
+excellent likenesses of the Emperor and Empress. Upwards of seventy guests
+sat down to a sumptuous repast, after which free flow was given to the
+expression of the warmest wishes for fatherland and the German nation.</p>
+
+<p>While these festivities were going on, the English mails brought the
+intelligence of the birth of an heir to the throne! So signal a cause for
+thankfulness on the part of Austria was duly observed at the uttermost
+ends of the earth, and on 27th November the thunder of the <i>Novara's</i>
+cannon announced the glad tidings to the colonies of the southern coasts
+of Australia! Salutes of 21 guns were fired at morning, noon, and sunset,
+while on board our ship, which was decorated with all her colours, a
+solemn <i>Te Deum</i> was sung, after which the crew were mustered on parade.
+The English ships of war also "dressed," and returned our salute by one of
+a similar number of guns. On the 30th there was a ball on board, to which
+400 guests were invited, many of the <i>élite</i> being overlooked through
+sheer want of space or accommodation!</p>
+
+<p>The hospitality extended to the Austrian officers was not however confined
+to these public receptions, when they were thoroughly "lionized" during
+their stay, but also included a constant round of invitations among
+private circles, among which, without making invidious selections, where
+we can
+<!--063.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span>but
+feel a lasting recollection of the cordial kindness we
+everywhere experienced, we may specify those of H.E. Sir Wm. Denison, Sir
+D. Cooper, Speaker, Stuart A. Donaldson, Esq. Chief Secretary, Dr. G.
+Bennett, the eminent physician and naturalist, M. W. Sentis, French
+Consul, and Captain Mann, chief engineer of the docks.</p>
+
+<p>Here also our thanks are due to an estimable Austrian lady, a native of
+Vienna, who, wafted on the pinions of Hymen to Australia, has not a little
+contributed to uphold in that distant region the gentle dignity of the
+Viennese ladies, and the renown of Germany for musical supremacy. This
+lady, widely known in artistic circles as Mlle Amalie Mauthner, is now
+Madame R&mdash;&mdash;, having a few years since married a German gentleman settled
+in Sydney. Quitting her home under the most auspicious anticipations for
+the future, the newly-married lady arrived in Sydney just in time to see
+her husband's house of business succumb under the first of the great
+financial crises. Instead of a life of affluence and ease in the
+gold-country, the sorely-tried lady was compelled to display her
+irresistible energy and activity by availing herself of her eminent
+musical attainments. The charming artist was speedily recognized and
+cordially supported in Sydney. The wealthiest and most distinguished
+families considered it an especial favour to be permitted to place their
+children under Mad. R&mdash;&mdash;'s tuition. Her concerts became the most
+fashionable of the season, and the dark cloud which had gathered above the
+young inexperienced wife
+<!--064.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span>on
+her arrival in Australia, had, thanks to her
+marvellous energy and activity, gradually been dispelled, leaving a bright
+sunny horizon of felicity and content.</p>
+
+<p>We had but little opportunity of observing the phases of political life in
+Sydney, our arrival being coincident with the "dead season" of politics.
+We were just in time to be present at the spectacle of the prorogation of
+Parliament. This ceremonial took place in the chamber of the Legislative
+Council, the Governor-general officiating in person. The second chamber,
+or Legislative Assembly, was, as in England, represented simply by a
+deputation. Punctually at noon Black Rod threw open the doors and
+announced in grave but loud tones, "His Excellency the Governor-general of
+New South Wales," upon which Sir William Denison entered the apartment
+with much dignity, and assumed his seat under a sort of canopy. By his
+side stood the Ministers, his private secretary, and an aide-de-camp.
+Before him sat the President of the Legislative Council, and other high
+dignitaries. Sir D. Cooper, Speaker of the Assembly,&mdash;whom we scarcely
+recognized in his strange official costume, a black silk single-breasted
+coat, richly laced with gold, and an immense full wig,&mdash;delivered a short
+address, to which the Governor-general briefly responded, and the ceremony
+was over and the Parliament prorogued. Australia now enjoys such a free
+constitution, modelled after the English form, the administration of the
+various colonies is so entirely autonomous, their duty to the mother
+country so insignificant (so far as outward form
+<!--065.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span>goes),
+that the
+colonists seem quite content with their present administration, and the
+mal-contents, who once advocated separation and independence, even to the
+length of ventilating the subject in Parliament, have now been reduced to
+utter insignificance.</p>
+
+<p>Each colony has, by the "New Constitution Act" of 1851, been provided with
+the utmost freedom of self-government, the British Government only
+reserving the right of veto in those cases where the colonial laws should
+happen to run counter to the common law of the Empire. One hears, it is
+true, many prognostications as to the result of dividing the country into
+so many independent colonies, and having so many parliaments, especially
+as to the immense preponderance that the inhabitants of the cities must
+have over the scattered country population. A few even seem to be of
+opinion that they must contain many elements eminently unsuitable to the
+vitality of a mutually reliant, cohesive, law-abiding confederation. But
+although some passing blots and temporary defects may be dragged to the
+light of day, it must not be overlooked that the Australian continent is
+almost as large as Europe, and that each of these colonies covers more
+superficial area than most of the European states. As the laws and
+administration are the same for all these, it is more probable that the
+anticipated break up of moral power will rather take the form of
+developing true political life, so that the masses will more honourably
+and surely be enabled to appreciate their constitutional rights and
+duties.<!--066.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A few days before our departure some of the scientific staff had further
+opportunity of communicating with the "blacks." It was important to extend
+our collection of craniological specimens for that branch of study, by
+comparing the various races of men with each other, so as to enlarge our
+knowledge of the physiological peculiarities of either sex and every race;
+and as we had been told that numbers of skulls could be procured among the
+<i>Gunyahs</i>, or sandstone cavities of Cook-river Bay, which had been a
+favourite burial-place of the aborigines, we made an excursion thither,
+still accompanied by our staunch friend, Mr. Hill.</p>
+
+<p>Our light vehicle rattled merrily through the suburbs of New Town, a sort
+of suburb of Sydney, thence over the Cook-river Dam, 1000 feet wide by 200
+feet in length, to Coggera Cove, where several of the aborigines had
+pitched a temporary camp. These were two Mestiza women with their
+children, and Johnny, the last of the Sydney blacks, who might be about
+40, and was a cripple in consequence of an injury sustained in childhood.
+In 1836 there were 58 still alive; now Johnny is the last remaining
+survivor!</p>
+
+<p>We set off from Coggera Cove in a small, but safe, and well-built boat,
+rowed by Johnny and some white colonists, bound for Cool-river Bay, but
+our search in the sandstone caverns was unfortunately fruitless. Johnny
+then conducted us to a spot where Tom Weiry, one of the last of the
+chiefs, who lived at the mouth of Cool River, and died about twelve years
+previous, had been buried. Tom Weiry, or Tom Ugly,
+<!--067.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span>as
+the English named
+him, was a very athletic man, whose skeleton was a real prize for the
+purposes of comparative anatomy. Close to the spot where, according to
+Johnny, the last remains of the Australian chief reposed, were large
+quantities of empty oyster-shells, indicating that the place in question
+had once been a favourite resort of the "blacks," attracted thither by the
+prolific yield of this place in those shell-fish, one of their most highly
+appreciated articles of food. At various spots traces of fires were
+visible. The aborigines of the coast usually bury their dead clothed in
+the woollen blanket they wore in life, with the heads seaward, and near
+the coast, with but a few feet of earth over them. Unfortunately we had
+our pains for our reward, although Johnny repeatedly assured us he had
+himself, in picking up shell-fish, on that very spot seen projecting from
+the sand human bones, that frightened the superstitious fellow from
+prosecuting his search in that direction. Indeed, Johnny was positive some
+other exploring naturalist had been there and walked off with our
+contemplated anthropological prize.</p>
+
+<p>We returned, our object unachieved, to our boat, and so back to Coggera
+Cove, where we found tea and chocolate prepared in the renowned "black
+pot," that figures so much in bush life, off which we made an excellent
+repast. With true kindliness Mr. Hill shared what we had brought with us
+with the aborigines, who, on their part, showed themselves very obliging
+and attentive.</p>
+
+<p>A second excursion, still in Mr. Hill's company, was made
+<!--068.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span>after
+craniological specimens to Long Bay, twelve miles distant, among whose
+thickets a few natives had been residing for some weeks. The road thither
+passed through gum tree forests, varied by wide grass plains covered with
+the many-blossomed <i>Metrosidero</i>, with its long deep red stamens, and
+brilliant <i>Melaleuca</i>, its twigs also nearly covered with white flowers,
+among which rose the tapering flower-stem, ten or twelve feet high, of the
+<i>Xanthorrhea</i>, something like reed-mace, surrounded by flights of
+humming-birds, which were imbibing its delicious nectar with their long
+bills. Great quantities of little birds were swarming about the brushwood
+and rushes, occasionally coming quite trustfully so close to us that we
+could have caught them with a butterfly net. We had been riding perhaps an
+hour or two when Mr. Hill suddenly began to call in the native manner.
+Those forthwith summoned by this quite unique sound replied from the
+thicket, as if recognizing the approach of a friend, and in a minute or
+two more we found ourselves in the midst of a number of aborigines of both
+sexes, mostly naked, or with a coarse woollen cloth around them, lying at
+full length on the ground in listless ease. Close by was a fire, over
+which was suspended a kettle filled with water. A couple of mangy hounds
+covered with sores were basking in the sun, heedless of the footfall of
+our horses, lying as indifferent as their masters till we had dismounted
+and seen our beasts attended to.</p>
+
+<p>It is extraordinary to see how few necessaries these people seem to have,
+and how little ambition they have to better
+<!--069.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span>themselves,
+so long as they
+can indulge their vagabondizing propensities. There is assuredly no nation
+on earth that so aptly illustrates Goldsmith's words,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Man wants but little here below,"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>as the black race of Australia.</p>
+
+<p>Those we were now visiting had come from the districts of Shoal Haven,
+Port Stephens, and Illawara. There were three men and as many women, one
+of whom, a Mestiza, named Sarah, with two half-blood little children. One
+of these, which, although above two years of age, was still at the breast,
+had a skin quite white, red cheeks, and light-blue eyes, and could
+scarcely be distinguished from the child of white parents. These presented
+so characteristic a type of the race, that we could not resist an attempt
+to make with them some of those admeasurements of the body already alluded
+to, while the artist attached to the Expedition delineated their
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The skull of the Australian black is tolerably regular, the forehead broad
+and high, the bridge of the nose pretty high, the eyes dark, brilliant,
+and sunken; the nose and cheek-bones well marked. The mouth generally is
+broad, the upper lip overhanging the under, and the upper teeth also
+project beyond the under. The face, like the entire body, is hairy in an
+unusual degree; the hair of the head is black, thin, often very fine in
+texture, and slightly crisped without being woolly. The skin is usually
+dark or dirty brown, or brownish black. The custom of marking the outer
+arm from
+<!--070.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span>the
+shoulders downwards with three or four marks, from 1 to
+1&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> inch long, and rather thick in the cicatrix, and continuing over the
+back with similar incisions, is pretty universal, and seems to be
+considered as a personal decoration. The elder people have the nasal
+cartilage bored through, and wear in the orifice kangaroo bones, or other
+bones, or even pieces of wood as amulets. We did not however remark this
+among the younger generation; this hideous custom seems to have died out,
+apparently on account of its discomfort.</p>
+
+<p>The stay of the <i>Novara</i> in Australia was, as already remarked, so brief,
+that it did not admit of the scientific staff making more distant tours to
+the great cattle "stations," or gold districts. At the same time it
+appears to us important to make some few observations on these two
+products, to which Australia is indebted for her present prosperity, and
+the former of which is fraught with even more of its future destiny than
+the latter. At the commencement of the present century England used to
+procure all her wool from Spain, and somewhat later from Germany<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> and
+Hungary. Since that period the production of wool in the Cape, the East
+Indies, and Australia, has so enormously increased, that Great Britain is
+enabled to get from her colonies the entire consumption she requires for
+her woollen manufactures, averaging from 60 to 70,000,000 lbs., thus
+utilizing the agricultural
+<!--071.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span>energies
+of her emigrating children for the
+behoof of the mother country and her industrial classes.</p>
+
+<p>New South Wales produces at present (1858) above 17,000,000 lbs. of wool,
+the whole of Australia about 50,000,000. The number of sheep has increased
+from 29, imported by the first colonists in 1778,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> to 8,139,160 in New
+South Wales alone, the total for all Australia being about 15,000,000.
+Some proprietors have upwards of 100,000 sheep, which they divide into
+flocks of from 2000 to 3000, which are in charge each of its respective
+shepherd, who keeps them in their own special "runs."</p>
+
+<p>The most suitable place for breeding sheep is Moreton Bay, lately raised
+into a new independent colony by the name of Queen's Land. The sheep there
+need but little attention, and the maladies to which they are subject in
+the west and south never occur in that colony. Were it not for the
+<!--072.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span>ravages
+of the wild dogs, the rearing of sheep would be attended with
+hardly any expense. These are pastured on the crown lands, for the use of
+which each squatter pays £10 per annum for every 4000 sheep, or 800 head
+of cattle. In the north, "Darling Downs" are considered the best,
+consisting of an open undulating table-land, broken here and there by
+occasional clumps of trees, and much resembling the States of Minnesota
+and Iowa, north and west of the Mississippi. On these Downs from 3000 to
+4000 sheep can easily be kept by a single shepherd, whereas in Bathurst
+800 would call into play all the watchfulness of a single individual. On
+Darling Downs the annual increase of a flock of 100 ewes is 96 per cent.;
+in Bathurst it is only 80. The value of a sheep is about 15<i>s.</i> to 20<i>s.</i>,
+and the shearing usually begins in October and lasts till December, the
+average weight being 2&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> lbs. to the fleece. Innumerable teams of oxen
+carry the wool in bales of 200 or 300 lbs. from hundreds of miles in the
+interior down to the seaports, where the oxen and carts are usually sold,
+as, owing to the low price of cattle, it would not be remunerative to take
+them back without a freight. While we were in Australia an attempt had
+been made, at much cost of time, trouble, and expense, to import from
+their native Cordilleras a large number of Llamas or Alpacas, with the
+view of increasing the value of Australian wool by a cross with the
+Peruvian. An enterprising English merchant of Valparaiso, named Joshua
+Waddington, who had been 40 years resident
+<!--073.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span>in
+Chili, was a chief promoter
+of the undertaking. In 1852 another Englishman had undertaken to convey
+500 alpacas to England, but, despite the utmost care during the voyage,
+only three were landed alive. Waddington attributed this disaster to the
+want of fresh food, and therefore hit upon the expedient of accustoming
+those animals which he intended to send to Australia to the use of dry
+fodder, such as barley, bran, and hay, for some time before their
+embarkation. As soon as they had become somewhat inured they were shipped
+at Caldera, near Copiapó, and entrusted to the care of Mexican Indians
+accustomed to their habits, for transport to Australia. The vessel was of
+800 tons burthen, and was chartered at 6000 dollars for the voyage. The
+fitting up of the vessel for her novel cargo cost about 300 dollars. Each
+animal, in addition to its ration of dried food, had a quart of water per
+diem. The voyage from Caldera to Sydney took 70 days. Of 316 llamas
+shipped or born on the voyage only 36 died, 280 arriving in excellent
+health at Sydney, and were with all speed turned into a large pasture on
+the Government domain.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> For weeks the negotiations remained in an
+anxious suspense, in consequence of the original projector of the
+undertaking, an adventurous Yankee, named Ledger, who had purchased the
+animals in the interior of Peru, and after four years of unwearied
+assiduity had accompanied his charge
+<!--074.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span>hither,
+standing out for a large sum
+by way of reward. Long after we had left Sydney we learned that the 280
+llamas were sold to a company of sheep-breeders at £25 a head, or for
+£7000 sterling the entire herd, the value of an animal in Peru being two
+or three dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The yield of the various gold-fields<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> in the west, north, and south of
+the colony, though nothing like so great as in the neighbouring colony of
+Victoria, yet contributes in no inconsiderable degree to the annual
+revenue of the state, and maintains a considerable commerce with other
+countries. According to official reports, the amount of gold taken out
+since its first discovery in March, 1851, to the end of July, 1860, was
+2,587,549 oz., worth about £9,600,000. Besides this, however, a
+considerable quantity of money was brought to the coast by private
+conveyance, where it was smelted down, since the entire yield of New South
+Wales in nine years was £12,696,231, besides £3,096,231 in the State
+Treasury and Mint, according to official returns.</p>
+
+<p>The rumour that gold was to be found in Australia was first set on foot by
+the Rev. H. F. Clarke, a Protestant missionary
+<!--075.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span>and
+well-known geologist,
+who so far back as 1841 found gold in the hills W. of Vale of Clyde, and
+had even then proved to several influential personages by unmistakeable
+evidence the existence of gold-quartz, with the remark that in Australia,
+especially the province of Victoria, all scientific indications were in
+favour of there being a great amount of gold. But the learned country
+parson found at that time little attention or interest, as well in
+consequence of its then being still a penal colony, as of the ignorance at
+that period universally prevalent as to the value of such indications.</p>
+
+<p>Ten years later a certain Mr. Hargrave adopted the rational course of
+visiting California, where he made himself master of the various means of
+obtaining gold, after which he returned, and commenced to wash for gold in
+Summer Hill Creek, Victoria, and thus became the practical discoverer of
+the gold-fields, the special contributor to the development of the
+resources of the country. The committee of the Legislative Council, to
+whom was entrusted to examine and report upon the claims of individuals as
+to the honour of having discovered the Australian gold-fields, added to
+the minute of 10th March, 1841, that Mr. Hargrave, who had so
+disinterestedly thrown open to all this inexhaustible mine of wealth,
+ought to receive £5000, and Rev. W. H. Clarke £1000 in recognition of his
+mineralogical researches, which had conduced to the same result. The first
+Australian gold, 18 oz. in weight, was landed in London by the <i>Honduras</i>
+on 20th August, 1851. Thenceforward the importation increased
+<!--076.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span>with
+each
+month, the amount by the end of the year having reached 240,044 oz., worth
+£871,652. The following year the amount extracted was 4,247,657 oz., value
+£14,866,799.</p>
+
+<p>The crowd of gold-seekers and adventurers, attracted by the discovery, was
+something tremendous. From the commencement of Sept. 1851, when 29 men
+were engaged in washing at Anderson's Creek, to the end of December, only
+four months, the population of the diggings reached 20,300; in 1852 they
+numbered 53,500, in 1853 75,626.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after the discovery of the gold-fields, the Colonial Government
+appointed special officers, the well-known "Gold Commission," to watch
+over these improvised settlements. They published "Regulations for the
+management of the gold-fields," and sold licenses, at 20<i>s.</i> or 40<i>s.</i>
+according to yield, for the privilege of digging within certain limits;
+the localities most in favour being Ballarat, Mount Alexander, Castlemain,
+Sandhurst, Beechworth, and Heathcote.</p>
+
+<p>The gold obtained in 1852 was valued at from 58<i>s.</i> to 60<i>s.</i> per ounce.
+The banks made advances at the rate of from 40<i>s.</i> to 55<i>s.</i> per oz., or
+exchanged the gold-dust at from 8&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> to 10 per cent. discount for coined
+money. The freight was 4&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub><i>d.</i> per oz. In 1858 the value of the ounce
+had risen at the "diggings" to from 70<i>s.</i> to 77<i>s.</i>, and the discount had
+fallen to 1 per cent., and the Insurance Company charged for gold
+transport a premium of from 1&nbsp;<sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> to 2&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> per cent.</p>
+
+<p>Since that period gold has repeatedly been discovered in fresh localities
+of the adjoining colony of Victoria, the "yield"
+<!--077.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span>and
+the number of
+diggers being also steadily increasing. Many thousands at present leave
+New South Wales annually to try their fortune in other fields than those
+of agriculture. In 1857 upwards of 26,000 persons left this colony for
+Victoria. Consequently, the price of labour has risen throughout
+Australia, and while it has thus increased in expense it has become more
+uncertain and unreliable. A large number of buildings, especially in the
+country, have been left unfinished, and the clearing and cultivation of
+numerous tracts of land have been abandoned. These temporary evils,
+however, cannot be permitted to outweigh the enormous advantages derivable
+from the discovery of the gold-fields of Australia. It has attracted the
+attention of universal mankind to a distant British colony, hitherto
+almost unnoticed, it has peopled the country with magic celerity,
+centupled the value of the land, made its results appreciable in the
+remotest districts of the globe, and raised the colony of Victoria within
+a few years, in national prosperity, increased trade, and extended
+cultivation, to a degree of importance usually the slow growth of
+centuries of industry.</p>
+
+<p>The discovery of the gold-fields had at the same time important scientific
+consequences, chiefly in the way of geological researches, which resulted
+in proving that the widespread popular opinion, that the Australian
+continent belongs to the latest geological era, and had comparatively
+recently emerged from the sea, is entirely erroneous. Rich palæontological
+collections confirm the opinion that Australia is not the latest, but
+rather the earliest, continent. In several parts
+<!--078.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span>of
+the colony the fossil
+remains of various colossal animals have been discovered, which, as since
+measured, must have stood from 10 to 16 feet in height, and correspond to
+our diluvial Pachydermata in Europe. In like manner, with the exception of
+some quite insignificant tertiary strata of small extent, only crystalline
+rocks and primary formations (from the Silurian upwards) form the chief
+bulk of the continent. The entire series of secondary strata seems to be
+absent. From this fact it necessarily results that Australia has been a
+continent since the end of the primary epoch, that it never has been
+covered by the sea, but remained ever since the beginning of the secondary
+formations, through all those countless ages during which Europe was being
+convulsed by the most tremendous geological revolutions, a habitable soil,
+on which plants and beasts, undisturbed by change in the inorganic world,
+might have continued to flourish down to our own times. Viewed in this
+light the fauna and flora of Australia would be the most ancient and
+primitive in the world.</p>
+
+<p>Another Austrian naturalist, the well-known botanist Professor Unger of
+Vienna, has come to the same conclusions from the fossil remains of some
+Australian plants, accompanied by the further singular deduction, that
+Europe must have been at one period in much closer accordance with this
+remote region. Many forms of plants, especially <i>Proteaceæ</i>, which at
+present form such a peculiar feature of its vegetation, seem to have been
+similarly prevalent in Europe at
+<!--079.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span>that
+remote age of the globe. But if
+even it be accepted that during the Eocene or earliest tertiary period
+there existed in Europe under similar climatic conditions flora of
+<i>Coniferæ</i>, <i>Proteaceæ</i>, <i>Myrtaceæ</i>, and <i>Casurinæ</i>, such as Australia now
+possesses, the question still arises as to how the vegetation of a
+locality so remote should have been transferred to antipodean Europe?
+Making all due allowance for the astonishing influence exercised by winds,
+waves, and the migration of animals over the diffusion of vegetable
+species, yet the means of transport by the ocean or by currents of water
+is confined within narrow limits, and under the most favourable conditions
+is limited to the very few plants which can maintain their powers of
+reproduction uninjured by immersion in water, and those on the other hand
+which, on being transported to a strange shore, find there the means of
+existence and increase. As, moreover, the observations which Professor
+Unger has made upon the diffusion of species of plants at that remote
+period, and their very accurately circumscribed limits, run directly
+counter to the opinion of those naturalists who hold to a variety of
+centres of development, (instancing a case where one species of plants is
+found in two widely separated regions,) have never been satisfactorily
+refuted, the learned botanist thereupon proceeds to the conclusion, that
+during the Eocene period Australia was united to the mainland through the
+Moluccas. This land route has been followed at one period by <i>Araucarias</i>,
+<i>Proteaceæ</i>, sandal wood, and a hundred other varieties of tree
+<!--080.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span>and
+shrub, which till that connection was made could not diffuse themselves,
+so as thus to reach the European continent, where they are even now found,
+despite the lapse of myriads of years, in the shape of well-preserved
+fossils. Thus too, for similar reasons, the geologist to our Expedition,
+like Professor Unger, regarded Australia as not a youthful, lately-born
+continent, but a country decaying with antiquity, which had played its
+part in the physical history of the globe, and had spread its scions far
+and wide. Some alteration of level is not merely indicated by the numerous
+coral reefs encircling Australia and its island groups, pointing to a
+similar sinking among them as that already noticed among the smaller
+Polynesian islands:&mdash;The whole characteristics of the soil, the wastes of
+the interior, the innumerable salt lakes, the rivers which lose themselves
+in these, &amp;c. &amp;c., tell of a coming geological transformation, which
+however&mdash;we mention this for the consolation of the settlers&mdash;may yet be
+postponed for myriads of years.</p>
+
+<p>The system of transportation, concerning which so loud an outcry has
+recently been made, has so materially assisted in developing the resources
+of the country, that it would hardly be right to quit Botany Bay without a
+few remarks on the penal colony which was in existence there till 1840.
+For there is no spot on the globe better adapted than New South Wales to
+serve as a stand-point, whence any one might accurately study the
+advantages and drawbacks of the English transportation system, as also its
+influence upon a strongly
+<!--081.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span>recalcitrant
+society. In brief, we purpose to
+subject the system as it subsisted for half a century in Australia to a
+thorough analysis, inasmuch as it seems to us that, in our present
+unnatural social conditions, transportation, i. e. the sudden transference
+of the criminal to totally new conditions of external life, seems to
+furnish the much-desired turning point whence we may expect a lasting
+moral improvement of the individual. Our Austrian prisons, especially
+those in which the cell system has not been introduced, are simply houses
+of detention, not penitentiaries, still less reformatories. The
+incarcerated criminal is a burden to himself and to society, to which he
+is only in the most exceptional cases restored improved by confinement.
+The charge of maintaining him increases year by year, without any return
+being made by utilizing the labour of the prisoner. In penal colonies, on
+the other hand, the convict works as much for his own benefit as for that
+of society. He throws open new immeasurable tracts of land to
+civilization, trade, and industry. The evil effects of certain climates
+upon the health of the convict can be corrected by proper ordinances, till
+it is reduced to a barely appreciable minimum. The free settler is also
+exposed in unsettled countries to dangerous illnesses, but as his
+circumstances improve these disappear before the cleared forest, the
+cultivated patch, the drained swamp.</p>
+
+<p>We do not believe that were the option left them there is one solitary
+individual in our Austrian prisons, condemned to periods of imprisonment
+of ten years and upwards, who would
+<!--082.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span>not
+willingly exchange his sojourn at
+home for one in even the insalubrious islands of the Indian Ocean, if the
+prospect were held out to him after a series of years of steady labour and
+honest activity, that he might make his new-found activity available to
+secure his liberty. What may be made, however, of a valueless wilderness
+by means of compulsory labour, we have at this day an example of in the
+case of the first penal colony of New South Wales. Even the objectionable
+manner in which the system was administered during more than fifty years
+in Australia and Van Diemen's land could not entirely destroy its
+beneficial effects upon the criminal, or blind an unprejudiced observer to
+the advantages and general utility of transportation as a means of
+punishment. In 1787 the eastern coast of Australia, chiefly in consequence
+of the too glowing accounts of the suitability of the harbours, and the
+fertility of the soil of Botany Bay, was selected by the British
+Government as the site of a penal colony, and on the 26th January, 1788,
+the first batch of convicts was landed there. These consisted of 600 males
+and 250 women, and were accompanied by an escort of 200 men. Forty of the
+latter were married men, who were accompanied by their wives and children.
+The whole expedition was under the command of Captain Phillip, the first
+Governor of the new settlement.<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25"
+class="fnanchor">[25]</a><!--083.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The colonists had scarcely settled down after their arrival on, as was
+speedily found, the anything but safe or fertile shores of Botany Bay, ere
+they were removed to another harbour, lying about seven miles further
+north, beautifully situate, and fulfilling every requirement, which they
+named Port Jackson.</p>
+
+<p>The first free settlers did not make their appearance till 1794. The
+officers of the garrison were merchants also, and trafficked in whatever
+merchandise they could find. Rum especially was a chief article. A
+Government regulation required every ship which should put into Port
+Jackson, to deliver a certain proportion of her spirits to the officers
+according to their rank!! They also received a list of the merchandise
+brought by each ship, from which they selected whatever seemed most
+profitable, which they disposed of again at retail to the soldiers,
+settlers, and convicts at an immense profit. Further, the officers enjoyed
+the entire monopoly of importing spirits, as also the exclusive privilege
+of selling them to the retail merchants. By these devices many of them
+amassed considerable fortunes by trade, and thus the repeated efforts made
+by a succession of Governors to effect a reform in the colony were
+rendered fruitless. During the administration of Captain Bligh, so widely
+known in connection with the tragic fate of the mutineers of the <i>Bounty</i>,
+rum was the most valuable article of exchange, and the colonists found by
+bitter experience that there were no other sellers of this destructive
+drink than the privileged few.</p>
+
+<p>The utmost anarchy and violence reigned supreme throughout
+<!--084.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span>New
+South
+Wales at that period; the power of the Government was set entirely at
+nought, license and violence usurped the place of law and order; the
+convicts found they were not under any effective control or supervision;
+whole bands of them infested the country as "bush-rangers," till they grew
+so bold as to enter the dwellings of peaceful settlers in broad day, where
+they perpetrated the most cruel excesses.</p>
+
+<p>In 1807 Mr. McArthur and Captain Abbot of the 102nd introduced the first
+distilling apparatus into the country for cheapening the production of
+ardent spirits. The Governor forthwith confiscated the apparatus, and
+forbade distillation in any part of the colony. This prohibition gave rise
+among those interested to dissensions, which gradually rose to such a
+height, that about a year thereafter it led to Bligh being placed in
+confinement by some of his own officers. The English Government however
+now began to perceive that such a state of carelessness could no longer be
+endured, and not only reinstated Bligh, but promoted him to the rank of
+Admiral.</p>
+
+<p>On their arrival in the colony the prisoners were sent to barracks in
+Sydney, where the Government selected from their number such
+handicraftsmen as they required for the public works, while the remainder
+were distributed as land cultivators, labourers, artisans, &amp;c., among such
+private individuals as had made themselves agreeable to the Government. As
+free labour was rare and expensive in the colony at that period, the
+requests for such allocations of forced labour were greatly in excess of
+the number of workmen so
+available.<!--085.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Those consigned to private individuals were taken into the interior in
+charge of a constable or overseer, where they were required to build a
+shelter for themselves, which, owing to the mildness of the climate, could
+be very speedily accomplished. The hours of work were from 6 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> to 6
+<span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, and the main feature was that the convict durst not leave his
+employer, whether kind and good-tempered, or harsh and cruel. When there
+was no further occasion for their services they were remitted to
+Government, who found another employer for them.</p>
+
+<p>All land-holders in the colony were entitled, on preferring a request to
+the Governor to that effect, to have assigned them, according to the
+current quantity of disposable labour, in the proportion of one workman to
+every 320 acres of land; but no settler, no matter how extensive his
+holding, could "take on" more than 75 convicts. Each employer had to
+engage to keep the convict assigned him one month at least, and provide,
+at his own cost, food and clothing according to a scale fixed by
+Government.</p>
+
+<p>The weekly rations consisted of nine lbs. wheaten flour, or at the option
+of the employer, three lbs. Indian corn, and seven lbs. of wheat flour,
+seven lbs. of beef or mutton, four lbs. salt pork, two oz. salt, two oz.
+soap. The clothing consisted of two jackets annually, three shirts of
+canvas or cotton, two pairs of drawers, three pairs of shoes of stout
+leather, and a hat or cap. Each labourer was also allowed the use of a
+counterpane and mattress, which however remained the property of the
+employer. These legal privileges
+<!--086.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span>had
+however been extended through custom
+or the favour of the employers to various little articles of luxury, such
+as tobacco, sugar, tea, grog, &amp;c. In particular, with the object of
+ensuring the utmost zeal on the part of the workman during the harvest
+season, it was almost imperative at that season to show him those little
+relaxations and favours which at length became customary, and in no slight
+degree enhanced the cost of his maintenance.</p>
+
+<p>On the arrival of a convict ship a crowd used to hurry down to await the
+moment when the convicts were to be allotted to applicants. As no special
+memoranda were made during the voyage of the offence for which each man
+had been transported, or his subsequent conduct on the voyage, the
+administration were not in a position to make such a selection as should
+classify the prisoners, and assign them according to nature of crime and
+subsequent behaviour to a determined or a more gentle employer. Hence
+resulted the most lamentable injustice; the most truculent of these men
+occasionally were assigned to the gentle masters, while a less hardened
+criminal came under the yoke of a hard-hearted task-master, and thus had
+an infinitely more severe lot to bewail than he in fact deserved.</p>
+
+<p>Such a harsh, and in too many cases unjust, method of dealing with them,
+drove the convicts to the commission of fresh offences, or even crimes,
+and, in desperation at the wrongs to which they were exposed, they not
+merely neglected utterly the interests of their temporary masters, but
+<!--087.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span>in
+many cases, impelled by a fierce thirst for vengeance, they burned house
+and property over his head at the harvest time!</p>
+
+<p>The chronic alarm and anxiety of the colony during a long period was not
+however traceable to the principle of the system itself, but to the method
+in which it was worked by self-seeking natives, greedy of gain. No sooner
+had the most glaring of the evils been rectified, and by means of a
+powerful government law and order resumed their wonted sway, ere the young
+colony began to make most unexpected strides in developing its
+capabilities, and both in the unfolding of its natural resources and in
+its trade and commerce ere long attracted the attention, not merely of
+England and her manufacturers, but of all Europe.</p>
+
+<p>In 1840 New South Wales ceased to be a convict settlement, at which period
+there were 130,856 souls in the colony, 26,967 of whom were convicts. In
+1857, when the last census was taken, there were in all 305,487, of whom
+171,673 were males, and 133,814 females, who inhabited 41,479 houses, 1725
+huts, 50 waggons, and 75 ships, and subsisted chiefly by pasture and
+agriculture.</p>
+
+<p>The morality of this population diffused over 321,579 square miles has
+greatly improved, thanks to the unlimited freedom of individual power to
+develope itself, and the opportunities afforded for leading an
+independent, comfortable life, and in the interests of Truth we must add,
+that in no part of Europe would any one be left so unfettered to travel
+<!--088.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span>about
+alone and unarmed, or require less precautions, as in this once
+penal colony.</p>
+
+<p>The number of criminal cases of all sorts in the colony during the last
+ten years, during which the population has increased from 189,600 to
+266,189, is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="center">1848</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">445</td><td align="center">accused, of</td><td align="center">whom were</td><td align="center">executed</td><td align="center">4</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">1849</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">534</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">4</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">1850</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">555</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">4</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">1851</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">574</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">1852</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">527</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">1853</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">604</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">1854</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">637</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">6</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">1855</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">526</td><td align="center" colspan="3">(one of these a woman)</td><td align="center">5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">1856</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">461</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">1857</td><td align="center">...</td><td align="center">395</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">4</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>One must not forget to take into account that by far the larger portion of
+the population are recruited from the lower class, as measured by
+education. On the whole we may assume that of the 305,487 souls, 30,000
+men and 20,000 women <i>can neither read nor write</i>.</p>
+
+<p>As to the intimate connection between crime and ignorance, most striking
+confirmation is obtained from investigations made in England and Wales in
+1842-44, in the case of 69,616 criminals, of whom 21,799 or 31.3 per cent.
+could neither read nor write, 41,620 or 59.8 per cent. could read and
+write imperfectly, 5909 or 8.5 per cent. could read and write well, and
+only 308 or 0.4 per cent. had received a good education.</p>
+
+<p>The present population of New South Wales, despite all
+<!--089.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span>their
+burdens and
+difficulties, furnish an instructive and cheering example of what may be
+made of even hordes of fallen man under certain conditions, if they can be
+afforded the opportunity of working and showing their powers.</p>
+
+<p>Confined in gloomy cells between high walls, chained hand and foot with
+heavy iron fetters, condemned in their wretched state to life-long
+inaction, the convicts sent out to Botany Bay during fifty years would
+have cost the State directly, and society indirectly, an enormous sum;
+while their existence would have passed in silent brooding over their
+fate, and speculations as to the means of avenging themselves on mankind.</p>
+
+<p>Placed on a remote, healthy, fertile shore, with the cheering prospect of
+inaugurating for themselves a new era of existence by labour and industry,
+and thus being enabled to attain competency and respectability, these very
+same men raise themselves, at but little cost, to the position of valuable
+subjects to the state and to society, by causing to smile, under the gold
+crop of agriculture, lands hitherto all but unknown, and thus becoming the
+founders of a community, which bears within itself the germ of such a
+marvellous development in the future, that political seers even now
+designate it as "<span class="smcap">the Great Britain of the Southern Hemisphere</span>."</p>
+
+<p>A system which, despite the many serious deficiencies caused by individual
+selfish short-sightedness, has produced such results, cannot be considered
+by any unprejudiced inquirer as altogether objectionable or aimless;&mdash;on
+the contrary, it seems to us it has proved its utility in founding new
+oversea
+<!--090.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span>colonies
+in portions of the earth as yet little visited, the
+first colonization of which is attended with local difficulties. We have
+but to avail ourselves of the experience acquired at Botany Bay, avoiding
+the canker under which the system has hitherto been worked in the British
+colonies (with the exception perhaps of that pattern convict settlement at
+Singapore, which we have already described), and draw up such regulations,
+keeping in view the sole object of transportation, viz. <span class="smcapac">PUNISHMENT BY
+EXILE, AND REFORMATION OF THE INDIVIDUAL THROUGH LABOUR</span>, as shall
+facilitate its being carried out in an efficient manner, and suffer
+ourselves neither to be diverted from our course by the selfish warnings
+of interested administrators, nor by the objections of ill-advised
+philanthropists.</p>
+
+<p>With respect to the carrying out of a system of transportation, such as
+formerly existed in the British colonies, especially Australia and Van
+Diemen's Land, the following modifications seem to be advisable:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>1. The abandonment of the convict to the employer, i. e. the "assignment
+system," must be entirely given up, as the prisoner by such an arrangement
+degenerates into an article for speculation, out of which it must be the
+task-master's interest to get as much as he can, so as to be able to
+return him upon the hands of the State so soon as his capacity for labour
+begins to fail. The convicts who were thus "assigned" in New South Wales,
+stood to their employers in the same position as negro slaves in the
+Southern States of
+<!--091.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span>North
+America, or the island of Cuba. They were fed
+like beasts of burden, without the slightest remuneration for the heaviest
+work. The State had, it is true, a right to punish the criminal, but it
+seems to us unjust in the extreme to make him the slave of his fellow-man.
+Accordingly this practice was the source of unutterable mischief, and was
+followed by most deplorable results as regards the moral development of
+the colony.</p>
+
+<p>2. The case is very different when the labour of the criminal, instead of
+being devoted to the aggrandizement of a private individual, finds its
+expansion in forwarding parochial or national public works, in clearing
+and cultivating tracts of land, and preparing them for the future labour
+of free colonists, in the laying out of roads, in the erection of
+churches, schools, hospitals, and barracks, in the construction of docks,
+quays, &amp;c. &amp;c. So soon as private interest disappears,&mdash;so soon as the
+energies of the criminal are no longer made available to put money in the
+pockets of private speculators, but are utilized for the general good, by
+far the greater number of those minor drawbacks will disappear, which
+press with all the more force on the compulsory labourer, in proportion as
+he feels conscious that he is regarded by him who has purchased his labour
+not as a <span class="smcapac">FELLOW-MAN</span>, but as a <span class="smcapac">CHATTEL</span>, to be employed while he is of any
+value, and then to be cast aside, as one might throw a dried twig into the
+fire. What may be accomplished in this direction, even in colonies of
+comparatively recent foundation, is evidenced
+<!--092.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span>by
+the splendid roads of
+Cape Colony, traversing mountain passes 6000 to 8000 feet high, the
+numerous public buildings in Singapore, Hong-kong, Sydney, &amp;c. Edifices,
+which in consequence of the high price of free labour, might not have been
+erected under the lapse of many years, actually at present rear their
+imposing forms like so many ornamental memorials, now of the worship of
+the loving Saviour, now of our charitable duties to the sick and
+afflicted, but all serving to instruct and civilize the rising generation!</p>
+
+<p>3. As to the subsistence of the criminals, we do not believe that the
+principle of giving them the same descriptions of rations, no matter
+whether they worked much or little, would be found conducive to the
+attainment of the great object of making them feel an interest in their
+labour. We would rather see the present system departed from in this
+particular, and a marked difference made in the food provided for the
+industrious, as compared with their more indolent companions.</p>
+
+<p>4. Of great importance in penal colonies, as tending to produce a lasting
+and decided improvement of the individual, is the <span class="smcapac">FAMILY TIE</span>. What is
+independence or even affluence to the exile, if he has no one to care for,
+or think of, but himself? His slow and laborious earnings would greatly
+tend to plunge him once more into excesses, till he quickly sank back into
+his former state of war with civilization.</p>
+
+<p>5. It seems to us imperatively necessary in the interests of this great
+design of a penal colony, that provision should be
+<!--093.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span>made
+for a certain
+proportion of female population, which might consist partly of female
+criminals, and partly of the wives of such of the male criminals as
+should, after a sufficient probation, be permitted to have their wives and
+children conveyed at the cost of Government to their place of exile.
+Lastly, the nucleus of a female population thus already formed might be
+added to from time to time, by sending out such discharged female
+criminals as had no visible means of making an honest livelihood in the
+mother country. It were a noble object for Christian activity and
+religious harmony to provide the means for sending these wretched outcasts
+to the new home that was thus being formed.</p>
+
+<p>6. The importation of spirituous liquors, that fruitful cause of so much
+crime, must be confined within the narrowest limits. One cannot believe
+that even in unhealthy places, where the water frequently is very impure
+and unhealthy, owing to vegetable matters held in solution, the use of
+strong spirituous liquors must needs be unavoidable. Tea and coffee will
+in such places, as I experienced myself during several years' residence in
+unhealthy climates, be found excellent substitutes.</p>
+
+<p>7. No official of the colony, civil or military, should be permitted to
+trade in any article except the natural products of the soil. On the other
+hand, it would be advisable that each <i>employé</i> should have assigned him
+by Government, a tract of land for cultivation corresponding to his rank.</p>
+
+<p>There can be little doubt, and it may well be advanced as
+<!--094.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span>an
+argument on
+the other side, when the rapid progress made by the Australian colonies
+under the influence of this transportation system is adduced as an example
+in point, that nowhere probably on the earth would external circumstances,
+position of the country, and development of the colony to such a pitch of
+prosperity, combine so wonderfully to produce such a result, as was the
+case with New South Wales. But even the clumsy method of carrying out this
+form of punishment, and the immense use made of it for selfish ends by men
+who had every opportunity for studying close at hand the influence it
+might have been made to exercise upon the development of the Australian
+colonies, could not weaken the conviction that, under more judicious
+management, it would have answered every anticipation that could
+reasonably be formed of any mode of punishment, and that it is better
+calculated than any other to prove conducive to the amelioration of the
+criminal himself. We might, while upon this subject, specially refer to
+the valuable and comprehensive work of Dr. Holtzendorf upon transportation
+as a means of punishment,<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> which embraces all that can be said on
+either side of the question, all put together in an attractive and
+exhaustive manner, and who, contemplating the great example presented to
+the world by Australia, has arrived at a similar conclusion, "that the
+working power of the criminal may,
+<!--095.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span>under
+proper management, be made to
+produce results, able to accelerate the progress of a generation, while
+furnishing at the same time a lever by which to effect a moral reformation
+in the disposition of criminals." He foresees the time "when the colonists
+of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land need no longer feel ashamed at
+the historic recollection of their original convict associations, but
+might rather, viewing the prosperity of their country, and the tone and
+extent of their civilization, feel grateful to the criminals who landed in
+1788 to become the pioneers of the country, and do them the justice of
+believing that the good which they were compelled to do to the soil still
+existed, while the evil they might have done was left undone of their own
+accord, or was gradually assimilated under substantial progress."</p>
+
+<p>The greatest obstacle to be encountered by the transportation system will
+be found in the difficulty of hitting upon suitable localities. When we
+consider the many conditions which must be satisfied, some referring to
+the general objects aimed at in all punishment, some to considerations of
+humanity and utility, when selecting a site for a penal colony, such as
+climate, soil, distance, importance of the country as a market for the
+products of the mother country, &amp;c., it will be found that the number of
+unclaimed or unbespoken territories, in which a scheme of compulsory
+colonization could be carried out on a large scale, is exceedingly
+limited.</p>
+
+<p>For Germany, however, at least under her present political composition,
+the foundation of penal colonies oversea seems
+<!--096.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span>all
+but entirely
+impracticable. She must, in the first place, have her maritime power more
+developed. On this subject the agreement is of importance which was
+entered into in 1836 between Mr. James Colquhon, Consul-General for the
+city of Hamburg, and the agents of the Australian Agricultural Society on
+the other, as, although nothing resulted from it, it nevertheless
+indicates how States that have no colonies can set about the system of
+transportation. The gist of that scheme was the subscription of a sum for
+the passage of such convicts as voluntarily accepted the offer, on their
+engaging to remain for a certain period at compulsory labour in Australia
+on the same terms as those of English convicts.<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a></p>
+
+<p>Once the wish and the necessity shall arise in Germany, owing to the
+expansion of her population, for possessions beyond sea, and her navy
+shall increase on a scale adapted to their protection and defence, then,
+although the choice of locality may be limited, the idea will no longer
+remain impracticable. In the Indian Ocean as well as the Pacific there are
+numbers of island groups, which, by their hypsometric conditions,
+geographical position, and fertility of soil, are admirably suited for
+settlement by white labour. The prejudice against the climatic
+adaptability of the majority of these falls to the ground, when we
+recollect what entirely altered conditions in that respect have been
+brought about by the industry and energy of the colonists of Singapore and
+Pulo-Penang, on islands which, from being in the worst possible
+<!--097.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span>repute
+for their deadly climate and dreaded forest malaria, are now favourite
+invalid resorts of the wealthy white residents of the islands of Eastern
+Asia. But German statesmen must no longer hesitate, or continue to
+sacrifice the future to the exigencies, even the most pressing in
+political eyes, of the present, for England noiselessly but systematically
+is possessing herself one after the other of all the islands that are as
+yet untenanted by the white man, as, for instance, quite lately of the
+Andaman Islands in the Bay of Bengal, or, as in the case of the Feejee
+Islands,<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> accept a suspicious protectorate got up by an influential
+missionary; while the Emperor of the French, with his irresistible
+inclination for annexation, is incessantly occupied in seizing on points
+important either by geographical position or for trade purposes, of which
+New Caledonia furnishes the latest example. Too long delay and expectation
+may have for the contemplative German results similar to those which in
+<!--098.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span>Schiller's
+beautiful poem, punished the dallying of the son of the Muses,
+whose fate, as compared with the actual political circumstances of
+Germany, suggests but too many painful analogies!</p>
+
+<p>On 6th December the frigate was made ready for prosecuting her voyage, and
+the same evening all was ataunto. The following morning we were to be
+towed out of the many-coved port, till quite clear of "the Heads." The
+steamer, however, sustained an accident to her machinery, and we had her
+services little more than half a day. Early on the 7th, a breeze had
+sprung up from S.W. by S., accompanied by squalls and rain, which
+gradually freshened into squally weather from the S., and determined the
+Commodore to make all sail at once. Already, even while we were still in
+the port, the weather began to be stormy; we had to take in a reef in the
+mainsail, and by 9 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> found ourselves outside of "North Head." By the
+afternoon the low flat coast of Australia had sunk below the horizon, and
+the south wind had now become a gale. It seemed as though winds and waves
+had conspired to put to the severest test the operations of the caulkers,
+carpenters, and sail-makers of Sydney. But although the frigate rolled
+tremendously, and the frequent squalls propelled the sea against her hull
+with frightful violence, she did not ship a drop of water below. The
+repairs in dock had been most effectually performed. After a couple of
+days both wind and sea fell, the sun shone out with the mildness of early
+spring, and we bowled along in the most
+<!--099.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span>delicious
+weather and with every
+stitch of canvas set, swiftly careering towards our next goal, New
+Zealand.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th at 5 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> we buried the corpse of one of the gunners, who had
+died the same morning of dysentery, the remains being committed to the
+deep with the customary ceremonies and marks of respect.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 19th we sighted Barrier Island off Cape Butt,
+distant 35 miles. The more we neared the land, the more balmy did the
+atmosphere become. Innumerable Albatrosses and <i>Procellariæ</i> swarmed
+around us, and the result of half an hour's shooting from a small boat
+dropped over the side for the purpose, resulted in our securing eleven
+different species of storm-birds. A whale about 50 feet in length also
+came close under our quarter, and only retreated after he had been
+repeatedly fired upon and had received a number of balls in his carcase.</p>
+
+<p>We steered for the South Point of Barrier Island, the outline of which is
+very beautiful, relieved as it is by two hills, of which that to the south
+is about 2000 feet in height, running up into a sharp peak, while the more
+northerly rises gradually, being only precipitous on the northern face.
+The broken conical rocks which ascend out of the sea near the northern
+point of the island unmistakeably indicate their volcanic origin.</p>
+
+<p>Our arrival off New Zealand was signalized by most unusual calms, which
+indeed materially delayed our entrance into Huraka Gulf, a sort of lateral
+bay, entering from the harbour
+<!--100.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span>of
+Auckland. A bark, which had sailed from
+Sydney three days before us, had, as we were informed by our pilot, been
+one day in harbour. We now had to tack slowly up under faint puffs of wind
+towards the anchorage, which we reached finally at 5.30 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> of the 22nd
+December, 1858.</p>
+
+<p>The country round Auckland has none of those majestic features which are
+presented by New Zealand further south. The enormous volcanic peaks, such
+as Mount Egmont, 8000 feet high, have dwindled down in this region to
+numerous but small extinct cones, rarely rising above 800 feet. Instead of
+the hills covered with perpetual snow of the central island, one sees here
+only low chains of hills, about 2000 feet high, and a rolling country,
+which dips into the sea in steep cliffs of sandstone. In the various bays
+and channels of the wide gulf might be seen numbers of natives in their
+elegant canoes engaged in fishing. We found but five ships in harbour, and
+here also the <i>Novara</i> was the largest man-of-war that had ever entered
+the port. The population of Auckland turned out on the beach as we
+approached, and began to exchange the usual salutes with the little fort.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> A National System of Political Economy. Stuttgart, 1840. (J.
+C. Cotta.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> In an old map of the year 1542, the Australian continent is
+named New Java.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The mean of thermometrical readings on the north coast is
+80°.6 Fahr.;&mdash;at Port McQuarrie, in S.E. Australia (31° S.), 68° Fahr.; at
+Port Jackson (34° S.) 66°.5 Fahr.; at Port Philip on the south coast (33°
+S.), 61°.3 Fahr.; at Perth on the west coast (32° S.) 62°.6 to 64°.4 Fahr.
+The annual rain-fall in New South Wales is 45 inches.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The total superficial area of the somewhat oval-shaped
+continent lying between 10° and 45° S. and 112° and 154° E., is about
+2,100,000 geographical square miles in extent, the coast outline of which
+is about 7000 miles, so that for each mile of coast there are about 300
+square miles of surface, or rather more than double the proportion in
+Europe. The united English population of the different colonies founded in
+Australia (exclusive of Tasmania or Van Diemen's Land) and New Zealand
+amounts to about 1,400,000 souls. Within twenty years the population has
+increased six-fold, and the value of the exports twenty-fold.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> The fundamental principle of the University is, "The
+association of students without respect of religious creed, in the
+cultivation of secular knowledge." (See Sydney University Calendar for
+1858, p. 15.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The fixed salary of the teacher varies from £120 to £140 per
+annum.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> At the period of our visit to the colony, the post of
+secretary was filled by Mr. G. French Angus, distinguished as an artist,
+and widely known for his valuable ethnological studies upon the Caffers,
+New Zealanders, and South Australian aborigines. Unfortunately his health
+gave way, owing to his exertions, and he now lives in retirement at
+Collingwood, in South Australia, where however he is still animated by the
+most intense zeal for science.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> The expedition discovered on the 21st April, 1858, in 24° 35&#8242;
+S. and 146° 6&#8242; W., an ash tree, two feet in diameter, on whose huge trunk
+the letter L had been deeply cut. Close by there were everywhere traces of
+a regular encampment, and an impression pretty universally prevailed that
+Leichhardt and his companions had camped here, and had cut this mark to
+indicate it. One of the oldest missionaries of Western Australia, the
+venerable Mr. C. Threlkeld, objected, however, to this view that the
+letter L, of which so much was spoken, had in all probability been made by
+one of the youthful natives, who when learning to read and write are in
+the habit of cutting the letters on the trees. We present here the precise
+passage of the text of a letter of Dr. Threlkeld's to us:&mdash;"I send you a
+spelling-book, that Billy Blue, one of the black boys, used to have, when
+he was learning to read and write. He and others used to go into the bush,
+and cut the letters of the alphabet on the barks of the trees, and Brown,
+an aboriginal lad, who <i>went with the unfortunate Leichhardt</i>, used to do
+the same. <i>I suspect that he cut the celebrated L on the tree about which
+there is so much talk at the present time.</i>"</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> One of the most appalling of these was that undertaken in
+April, 1848, by surveyor E. B. Kennedy, along the strip of land between
+Cape York and Rockingham Bay in Northern Australia, whose melancholy fate
+is described by one of the survivors, Mr. Carron, a botanist, in a not
+less simple than affecting manner. "When we first started everything went
+on well, and the most brilliant anticipations were indulged, although
+there were numerous obstacles to be overcome, and the few natives we
+encountered were invariably hostile. Gradually, however, provisions began
+to fail; sickness and loss of strength succeeded, while the prospect of
+reaching our goal grew less and less. The further north we got, as the hot
+season was now setting in, the more frequently did we find the forest
+rivulets dried up, so that we had for days to bear up against an almost
+maddening thirst. The horses which accompanied the expedition gradually
+sank from exhaustion." Almost every day Carron's journal mentions one or
+the other horse giving in of fatigue, when they were compelled for want of
+further provision to eat its flesh during the next two days. That of the
+last was conveyed along by the travellers in sacks, made from the skin of
+the animal itself. Whenever they encountered natives, these proved
+hostile, and assailed the little caravan with spears. Some of them indeed
+were more friendly, and traded with the travellers, but less out of
+sincere hospitality than with the hope of taking them in, and getting them
+unawares into their power. Thus, on one occasion a number of tall,
+well-made, powerful men and women made their appearance, and offered them
+some fish, which they themselves refused to eat owing to its putrified
+state. Hardly had the travellers approached it, unsuspicious of evil, when
+a cloud of spears cleft the air with a whistling noise, and the scene,
+hitherto so friendly and peaceable, became at once a scene of blood and
+confusion. However, the spear-men seemed to have no great dexterity; they
+usually missed their mark, whereas the flints and double-barrels of the
+whites did deadly execution. One however proved more fatal than the rest,
+and killed Mr. Kennedy, the chief of the party. They were now only a few
+days distant from Cape York, the goal of their labours, whence a
+Government ship was to convey the leader and his party back to Sydney. But
+the survivors were also all but exhausted with the terrible fatigues of
+their journey. Only three out of the fourteen survived, and these were
+reduced almost to skeletons. Carron's elbow-bone of the right arm, and
+also the bone of the right hip, were through the skin! (Narrative of an
+Expedition undertaken under the direction of the late Mr. Assistant
+Surveyor, E. B. Kennedy, for the Exploration of the Country lying between
+Rockingham Bay and Cape York; by W. Carron, one of the survivors of the
+Expedition. Sydney, 1849.)
+</p><p>
+Still more lamentable was the fate of the last and most important of these
+expeditions, which in 1861 succeeded in crossing the Australian continent
+from the north frontier of South Australia to Carpentaria, and back to
+Cooper's Creek, in which, unfortunately, the travellers missed the dépôt
+troop that had been sent to their assistance, and the entire party,
+including Messrs. Burke, Wills, and Gray, lost their lives, only one of
+their number, King, escaping to tell their sad fate. (Vide Appendix.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Government has bethought itself of a plan for facilitating
+discoveries in the interior, and rendering them more profitable by
+importing from Egypt into Australia camels and dromedaries, chiefly of the
+breed known as El Hura, as these animals can easily get over 60 to 80
+miles per diem, and can moreover dispense with water for weeks together.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> During a visit which our naturalists paid to Dr. Bennett
+they were shown a young pair of the Morok (<i>Casuarius Bennetti</i>),
+discovered not long since at New Britain, which he intended to present to
+the Zoological Society of London for exhibition at the Regent's Park. What
+is very remarkable in this singular bird is the shape of the bill, which
+is curved in the male, but almost straight in the female.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> This distinguished gentleman, conspicuous alike as a
+theologian and a politician, who plays a by no means insignificant part in
+the legislative assemblies of the colonies, presented an address to the
+Parliament of Frankfort in 1848, in which he set forth the advantage of
+founding a German colony in the Pacific. Owing to the ignorance prevalent
+on the subject this <i>brochure</i> passed unnoticed, and New Caledonia, the
+island which the worthy Doctor had designed for a German colony, was taken
+possession of by the French. He has since published a most interesting and
+valuable work on Queensland, in which he gives some very curious details
+about the native practice of skinning their dead, when the true skin being
+of a white colour, the corpse has a most ghastly appearance. He says this
+is the reason some of the tribes so highly reverence the <i>white</i> man, whom
+they regard as their own ancestors restored to life, but in an improved
+nature!!</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> The depopulation of the natives is advancing so rapidly that
+one of our Sydney friends writes, "An expedition similar to your own,
+which shall visit us some years hence, will find little more than a scant
+remnant of the aborigines. That of the <i>Novara</i> is probably the last of a
+scientific nature, which will have been successful in seeing living
+specimens of the once numerous blacks of Australia."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> <i>Wullurah</i> in the native language signifies "the place of
+deliberation," because in former times this place had, on account of its
+commanding position, been selected by the aborigines for assembling the
+various tribes by means of watch-fires, or blasts of a horn, to decide
+upon peace or war.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> On the Clarence river there has been for several years past,
+in full activity, a stearine candle-factory, which pays well, owing to the
+demand at the "diggings" for these candles. In 1856 the value of those
+manufactured was £600,000.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> According to English writers this instrument, the peculiar
+properties of which are so well known that we need not enlarge upon them
+here, has also been found in the Sarcophagi of Upper Egypt. In some of the
+frescos now in the British Museum, which illustrate the manners and habits
+of the Ancient Egyptians, a figure is represented in the act of launching
+the Boomerang against a covey of ducks, which are flying out of a
+thicket.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> In Prussia, the annual consumption of spirits would fill a
+basin one mile long, 33 feet wide, and 10 feet deep. In England, the
+annual quantity of <i>wine</i> drunk per head is 0.267 gallon; in France it is
+19 gallons! The British nation pays annually £70-74,000,000 taxes, and
+£74,000,000 for spirits!!</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> The rise and fall of the tide at Port Jackson is very small,
+not above four or five feet.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Viz. 1400 men, and 200 women.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> This is the nickname given to the violent S. or S.W. wind,
+fortunately of short duration, which so frequently springs up towards
+evening from the "Brickfields," because it brings with it such volumes of
+sand and dust from the eminence known as the Brickfield lying S. and S.W.
+from Sydney, enveloping the entire city in murky clouds of dust. The
+"Brickfielder" is a pretty safe guide as to the weather, as soon as it
+blows the whole sky becomes suddenly covered with clouds, and cool rainy
+weather follows upon the previous heat.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> The imports of wool from Germany had, in 1836, risen to
+31,766,194 lbs., but it has since then rapidly receded, owing mainly to
+the increased production in the English colonies.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> We present an official account of the live stock in the
+settlement at Port Jackson, May 1st, 1788, which forms an interesting
+contrast with the development of its resources since that period:</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="" style="border-collapse: collapse;">
+<tr><td align="left" rowspan="10" class="bl br">To whom belonging.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;S&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;M&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;C&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;B&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;C&nbsp;</td><td align="center" colspan="1" class="bl">&nbsp;Sheep.&nbsp;</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;G&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;H&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;P&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;R&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;T&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;G&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;D&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;F&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;C&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl br">t</td><td align="center" class="bl br">a</td><td align="center" class="bl br">o</td><td align="center" class="bl br">u</td><td align="center" class="bl br">o</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">o</td><td align="center" class="bl br">o</td><td align="center" class="bl br">i</td><td align="center" class="bl br">a</td><td align="center" class="bl br">u</td><td align="center" class="bl br">e</td><td align="center" class="bl br">u</td><td align="center" class="bl br">o</td><td align="center" class="bl br">h</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl br">a</td><td align="center" class="bl br">r</td><td align="center" class="bl br">l</td><td align="center" class="bl br">l</td><td align="center" class="bl br">w</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">a</td><td align="center" class="bl br">g</td><td align="center" class="bl br">g</td><td align="center" class="bl br">b</td><td align="center" class="bl br">r</td><td align="center" class="bl br">e</td><td align="center" class="bl br">c</td><td align="center" class="bl br">w</td><td align="center" class="bl br">i</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl br">l</td><td align="center" class="bl br">e</td><td align="center" class="bl br">t</td><td align="center" class="bl br">l</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">t</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">b</td><td align="center" class="bl br">k</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">k</td><td align="center" class="bl br">l</td><td align="center" class="bl br">c</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl br">l</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">i</td><td align="center" class="bl br">e</td><td align="center" class="bl br">e</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">k</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl br">i</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">t</td><td align="center" class="bl br">y</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">e</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl br">o</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">n</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl br">n</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl br">s</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl br">.</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td class="br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" rowspan="3" class="bl br">Government</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">1</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">2</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">2</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">2</td><td align="center" class="bl">Ram</td><td align="center" class="br">1</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">1</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">20</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="3" class="bl br">-</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl">Ewes</td><td align="center" class="br">12</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl">Wethers</td><td align="center" class="br">3</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td class="br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" rowspan="2" class="bl br">Governor</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">1</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">3</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">2</td><td align="center" class="bl">Ewe</td><td align="center" class="br">1</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">10</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">3</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">5</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">8</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">17</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">22</td><td align="center" rowspan="2" class="bl br">-</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" class="bl">Lamb</td><td align="center" class="br">1</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td class="br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" class="bl br">Lieut.-Governor</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl">-</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">1</td><td align="center" class="bl br">1</td><td align="center" class="bl br">7</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">5</td><td align="center" class="bl br">6</td><td align="center" class="bl br">4</td><td align="center" class="bl br">9</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" class="bl br">Officers &amp; men of the detachment</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">1</td><td align="center" class="bl">-</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">12</td><td align="center" class="bl br">10</td><td align="center" class="bl br">17</td><td align="center" class="bl br">2</td><td align="center" class="bl br">6</td><td align="center" class="bl br">9</td><td align="center" class="bl br">8</td><td align="center" class="bl br">55</td><td align="center" class="bl br">25</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" class="bl br">Staff</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl">-</td><td align="center" class="br">11</td><td align="center" class="bl br">5</td><td align="center" class="bl br">7</td><td align="center" class="bl br">1</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">2</td><td align="center" class="bl br">6</td><td align="center" class="bl br">6</td><td align="center" class="bl br">36</td><td align="center" class="bl br">62</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" class="bl br">Other individuals</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl">-</td><td align="center" class="br">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">1</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td><td align="center" class="bl br">-</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td class="br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td><td class="bl br">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" class="bl br">Totals</td><td align="center" class="bl br">1</td><td align="center" class="bl br">3</td><td align="center" class="bl br">3</td><td align="center" class="bl br">2</td><td align="center" class="bl br">5</td><td align="center" class="bl">&nbsp;</td><td align="center" class="br">29</td><td align="center" class="bl br">19</td><td align="center" class="bl br">49</td><td align="center" class="bl br">25</td><td align="center" class="bl br">5</td><td align="center" class="bl br">18</td><td align="center" class="bl br">29</td><td align="center" class="bl br">35</td><td align="center" class="bl br">122</td><td align="center" class="bl br">87</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>At present there are in this colony, 180,000 horses, 2,148,660 cattle, and
+109,160 pigs.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> The sheep-breeders of the colony competed for the honour of
+purchasing these valuable animals.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> The distance of the various gold-fields from Sydney and the
+various harbours of the colony is as follows. <i>Western
+Gold-fields</i>,&mdash;Bathurst 110 miles, Sofala 140, Orange 141, Ophir 146,
+Mudgee 155, Tambaroora 157, Meroo 160, Louisa Creek 176, Tuena 190.
+<i>Southern</i>,&mdash;Goulburn 125, Queanbeyan 182, Braidwood 184, Bill's Creek
+190, Araleun 200, Sundagai 244, Cooma 254, Tumut 264, Adelong 273, Albury
+286, Obin's River 410, Kiandra or Guoroy River, over Twofold Bay and
+Bambula, 240 miles. <i>Northern</i>,&mdash;Hangus Rock 304, Bingera Creek 365, Rocky
+River 357, Tamworth 280, Timbarra 67 miles from Clarence River, <i>viâ</i>
+Grafton, overland. The other gold-fields of the Clarence River District,
+such as Lubra, Toolam, Emu Creek, Pretty Gully, Sandy Creek, Table Land,
+Nelson's Creek, &amp;c., are 80 to 100 miles from the river.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> The colony of New South Wales consisted at that period of
+the entire land comprised between Cape York in 11° 37&#8242; S. to South Cape,
+43° 30&#8242; S., and as far as 135° E. in the interior to the westward,
+including all islands adjoining, comprised within those degrees of
+latitude.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Die Deportation als Strafmittel in alter und neuer Zeit, und
+die Verbrecher-Colonien der Engländer und Franzosen in ihrer
+geschichtlichen Entwickelung und criminal-politischen Bedeutung.
+Dargestellt von Franz v. Holtzendorf, &amp;c. Leipzig, A. Barth. 1859.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> The cost of transport of each convict was to be reckoned at
+£18.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> This Archipelago, remarkable by the size and loftiness of
+its islands, extends from Batoa or South Island in the S.E. (19° 47&#8242; S. by
+179° 52&#8242; E.), to Thicombea to the N. (15° 47&#8242; S.), and Biva to the W.
+(176° 50&#8242; E.), and contains 225 islands and islets, of which about 80 are
+inhabited. The entire superficial area is about 5700 square miles, and
+upon a superficial estimate it contains 150,000 souls. The climate seems
+to be eminently suitable for cotton culture, besides which sugar-cane,
+coffee, tobacco, arrow-root, and most probably rice and indigo, may be
+advantageously cultivated. Berchthold Seemann, the well-known botanist,
+who made a scientific exploration of some of the Feejee Islands at the
+expense of the English Government in the Autumn of 1860, discovered in the
+valleys of Naona forests of the sago palm, whose nutritious flour might
+become an important article of export. Dr. Petermann published in the
+latter half of 1861, at page 67 of his valuable "particulars of certain
+important recent discoveries in geography," an interesting synopsis of all
+the latest scientific information respecting the Feejee
+Archipelago.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--101.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span></p>
+
+<div style="position: absolute; left: 50%; margin-left: -345px;
+width: 690px; height: 894px; background-image: url('images/illu101.png');
+background-color: transparent;"><a name="illu101" id="illu101"></a>
+<span style="position: relative; top: -1em;">Maori</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="icba" style="width: 690px; height: 450px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 225px; margin-right: -252px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 200px; margin-right: -288px;"></div>
+
+<h2 style="clear: none;"><a name="XIX" id="XIX"></a>XIX.</h2>
+
+<div class="c2" style="clear: none;">Auckland.</div>
+
+<div class="c3" style="clear: none;"><span class="smcap">Stay from 22nd December, 1858, to 8th January, 1859.</span></div>
+
+<div class="ChapDescr" style="clear: none;">
+Request preferred by the Colonial Government to have the
+coal-fields of the Drury District thoroughly examined by the
+geologists of the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Geographical remarks concerning New
+Zealand.&mdash;Auckland.&mdash;The Aborigines or Maori.&mdash;A Mass
+meeting.&mdash;Maori legends.&mdash;Manners and customs of the
+Aborigines.&mdash;The Meri-Meri.&mdash;Most important of the vegetable
+esculents of the Aborigines before the arrival of the
+Europeans.&mdash;Dr. Thomson's anthropological investigations.&mdash;Maori
+proverbs and poetry.&mdash;The present war and its origin.&mdash;The Maori
+king.&mdash;Decay of the native population and its supposed
+causes.&mdash;Advantages held out by New Zealand to European
+emigration.&mdash;Excursion to the Waiatarna valley.&mdash;Maori village
+of Oraki.&mdash;Kauri forests in the Manukau range.&mdash;Mr. Smith's farm
+in Titarangi.&mdash;St. John's College.&mdash;Intellectual activity in
+Auckland.&mdash;New Zealand silk.&mdash;Excursion to the coal-fields of
+the Drury and Hunua Districts.&mdash;New Year's Eve at the
+Antipodes.&mdash;Dr. Hochstetter remains in New Zealand.&mdash;The
+Catholic mission in Auckland.&mdash;Two Maories take service as
+seamen on board the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Departure.&mdash;The results of the
+explorations of the geologist during his stay at the
+island.&mdash;Crossing the meridian of 180° from West to East.&mdash;The
+same day reckoned twice.&mdash;The sight of the islands of Tahiti and
+Eimeo.&mdash;Arrival in the harbour of Papeete.
+</div>
+
+<p>Great was the interest excited at the Antipodes by the arrival of the
+<i>Novara</i>, for besides the importance for European
+<!--102.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span>emigration
+of a country
+possessing a healthy climate, a fertile soil, and but thinly peopled, it
+was most gratifying to the members of the first Austrian Expedition to see
+much hitherto unsuspected natural wealth made known to the inhabitants by
+one of their scientific staff, and thus to prove of use to a nation which
+in almost every part of the globe has so incontestably borne away the palm
+in advancing the interests of science and the development of the treasures
+of the earth.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately after our arrival in Auckland, the Governor of the colony,
+Colonel Gore Browne, renewed the request, previously made in his name to
+our Commodore while at Sydney by Sir William Denison, that he would permit
+our geologist to make a proper scientific examination of a portion of the
+Drury District, in which there were certain indications supposing to point
+to the existence of coal-fields. Upon his report would depend the
+exploration and the establishing of a regular system of working the mines.
+The little Expedition to the coal-fields, which was most munificently
+equipped by the Government, proved successful beyond all expectation, so
+much so as to induce the Governor to beg of our Commodore the further
+favour of permitting our geologist to make a still longer stay on the
+island, for the purpose of more accurately and completely surveying the
+dependency. The negotiations upon this subject, fraught with such happy
+results for both parties, will be found in the Appendix, while
+<!--103.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span>at
+the end
+of this chapter we shall give a succinct sketch of what was accomplished
+in the interests of science by the activity of Dr. Hochstetter, our
+geologist, during his stay in New Zealand, the more copious details of his
+eight months' stay at the Antipodes being reserved for a special volume.</p>
+
+<p>New Zealand consists of two large islands separated from each other by
+Cook's Straits, a splendid channel, 150 miles long by 50 in width, and the
+two smaller islands, called Stewart's and Chatham Islands, about 50 by 20,
+separated by Foveau Straits, the latter lying in the ocean about 400 miles
+south-west of the province of Canterbury.</p>
+
+<p>The entire group extends from 34° to 48° S., and 166° to 179° E. The
+greatest extent of land, from N.E. to S.W., i. e. from Cape Maria Van
+Diemen to South Cape, is over 1000 miles. The greatest breadth, along the
+parallel of 38° S. is about 200 miles, while the coast-line is several
+thousand miles in extent. By the constitution of 1853, New Zealand is
+divided into six chief provinces:&mdash;Auckland, New Plymouth (Taranaki), and
+Wellington in the north island, and Nelson, Canterbury, and Otago, in the
+central islands, since which period two new provinces have been
+added,&mdash;Hawk Bay in the north island, and Marlborough in the middle
+island.</p>
+
+<p>None of the remaining seven, however, is so important or possesses such
+geographical advantages as Auckland. Its coast-line is upwards of 900
+nautical miles, while its more
+<!--104.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span>important
+rivers, such as the Waikato,
+Waipa, Waihó (called also the Thames), Piako, and Wairao, are navigable
+for small boats far into the interior. Of its 28 harbours, four, viz. Bay
+of Islands, Auckland, Wangaroa, and Middle Harbour, are accessible
+throughout the year for large ships, besides offering secure anchorage;
+but of the remainder only eight will admit vessels of 400 tons, while the
+balance can only be used by small brigs and schooners.</p>
+
+<p>Auckland, the capital, lies on an isthmus about six miles in width,
+dividing Waitemata Harbour from that of Manukau, the first being beyond
+all question the best harbour on the east side, the former on the west.
+These two harbours furnish moreover, by the numerous streams and creeks
+that disembogue into them, most excellent means of communication with the
+interior. The products of the country through a region of 100 miles are
+conveyed to Waitemata by the Waihó and Piako rivers, while on the other
+hand the Waikato and Waipa rivers bring to the harbour of Manukau the
+natural products from 120 miles inland. At a comparatively small cost a
+cut might be carried through the isthmus, at a point where it is only a
+mile and a half wide, and direct water communication be thus effected
+between the two harbours, to the manifest advantage of the country and
+capital. At present the mail steamer, which comes from Sydney once a month
+with the European letters, berths in Manukau Harbour, near Onehunga, on
+account of the greater convenience of that harbour, and its being at a
+much less distance, whence
+<!--105.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span>the
+mails are transported in coaches across
+the isthmus to Auckland. Onehunga is a flourishing settlement, with
+interesting volcanic formations. The road thither lies through a fertile
+rolling country, which is, for the most part, reclaimed and under
+cultivation, or else depastured by large herds of handsome, powerful oxen.
+The three land-marks of the landscape are:&mdash;Three King's Hill, Mount Eden,
+and One Tree Hill. All these, of moderate elevation, were formerly crowned
+with <i>páhs</i> or native fortified villages, and were once inhabited by a
+large population, as is evidenced to this day by the quantities of human
+bones found in the lava below, and by several singular terrace-like
+artificial earth-works. The cottages of the settlers are handsome and
+clean, but of singularly small dimensions, very much the result we suppose
+of the dearness of building material and the high price of labour near
+Auckland.</p>
+
+<p>According to the census of 1857 the entire population of New Zealand
+amounted to 108,204,<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> the white European population numbering 52,155,
+of whom 16,315 persons inhabited Auckland (9038 men, and 7277 women).</p>
+
+<p>The aborigines (Maori in the native tongue) are officially returned at
+56,049, of whom by far the larger number, above 38,000, inhabit the
+province of Auckland. Of all the savage races with whom England has come
+in contact in the course of
+<!--106.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span>her
+mighty struggles to open trade and raise
+humanity, the New Zealanders have hitherto proved themselves to be the
+most susceptible of European civilization. More than five-sixths of their
+number are already Christians, and have been baptized, and, settled down
+in comfortable residences, maintain themselves by agriculture or
+sailoring. More than one hundred vessels built in the colony are owned by
+natives, who not alone have in their hands a considerable portion of the
+coasting trade, but carry on business with the adjoining islands, as also
+with New South Wales. While Bushmen, Hottentots, Caffres, Australian
+negroes, all, like the Indian tribes of Canada and the United States,
+present the helpless type of misery and decay, all the indications here
+seem to promise that the splendid spectacle will be presented of one of
+the most savage, yet highly gifted, races of the globe being raised in the
+scale of humanity by education and culture, and brought permanently within
+the scale of civilization. Whoever has followed with critical eye the
+immense increase of this colony during the last twenty years, must indulge
+this cheering anticipation not less confidently than the traveller who has
+traversed the entire island totally unmolested, has been cordially
+welcomed in every hut, has encountered everywhere schools and Christian
+missions, and has seen the natives occupied solely with the avocations of
+peace. Those native chiefs, who from contact with civilization had already
+adopted the outward deportment and mode of life of the European settlers,
+omitted no opportunity of confessing in language of
+<!--107.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span>fire
+the
+consciousness of their former moral degradation, and of holding the
+European up for admiration, as the founder of a new era of morality and
+humanity in their country; nay, one Maori, who is now a zealous missionary
+in the interior of the island, once avowed to his hearers that he had
+himself as a boy eaten human flesh, and had first learned through the
+influence of Christianity to comprehend the abominations and wild-beast
+ferocity of his previous state, after which he had begun to lead a life
+more worthy of the dignity of manhood.</p>
+
+<p>The members of our Expedition also enjoyed the opportunity of attending a
+Mass-meeting of Maories in the Takapuna district on the north shore of
+Waitemata Harbour, where they gathered, from the orations of the most
+influential chiefs and speakers, the liveliest conviction of their
+fidelity and attachment to the Queen of England and her government. We
+insert here a pretty full description of this remarkable meeting, as well
+as a brief sketch of the most interesting manners and customs of the
+aborigines of New Zealand, in order to enlighten the reader as to the
+justice of the universally expressed distrust of the capacity of the Maori
+for civilization, and the more readily to form an idea of the alarm and
+astonishment of the English Government, on being suddenly informed that
+the entire native population had rose in arms against the European
+settlers.</p>
+
+<p>A wealthy and much-respected chief, named Patuóni, has been in the habit
+for many years past of inviting all the friendly tribes residing in his
+neighbourhood, as well as the
+<!--108.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span>most
+distinguished of the white settlers,
+to a great popular fête every Christmas. The intelligence that on the
+present occasion the "Kavana" (Governor), or Commander of one of Queen
+Victoria's allies, would attend with a numerous suite, had caused much
+agreeable excitement among the Maori, and they offered to send some
+war-canoes and two whale-boats to the coast opposite in order to convey
+the guests. The staff of the Expedition were however already at the place
+of meeting in the Takapuna district, when the war-canoes arrived at the
+usual place of embarkation in Auckland. Here we saw a number of large
+tents pitched on an eminence, and gaily adorned with English and other
+flags, under which were very long narrow tables, about two feet high,
+covered with neat little baskets elegantly woven of the leaves of the New
+Zealand flax, in which were cooked potatoes, roast-pork, and fish. The
+guests, 300 or 400 in number, sat on the ground, which was thickly covered
+with fern freshly gathered, some sitting cross-legged, others squatting on
+their heels, zealously excavating the food with their fingers, for the use
+of forks has not yet become a fashion among the Maori. The chief beverage
+was tea, and all around on the grass adjoining the tent might be seen
+improvised fire-places, on every one of which a huge kettle of boiling
+water was singing. The gait and extravagance however of but too many
+indicated that less harmless drinks were being supplied close by. Each as
+soon as he had finished his repast lighted his pipe, and mingled with the
+groups that were chatting about. Tobacco smoking
+<!--109.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span>has
+become a positive
+passion with both sexes, and even among the children of the poorer classes
+it is no unusual thing to see the infant carried in the arms coolly take
+the pipe out of its mother's mouth and begin to smoke it! The earthen
+pipe, broken off so short that there is barely sufficient to enable the
+teeth to take hold,&mdash;in one word, summing up everything to English
+ears&mdash;the "cuttie"&mdash;is most in favour.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely was it rumoured that the Commander of the Austrian frigate with
+his staff were at hand, ere the whole crowd, which up to that moment had
+been abandoning itself to enjoyment, suddenly dispersed <i>pêle-mêle</i> in
+wildest confusion. The gay flags were removed from the tent-peaks, and
+made to veil the scene of uproar; a quick but monotonous song, alternating
+with measured stamping with the feet, was droned out, the chiefs
+brandishing aloft and swinging with wild gesticulations their costly clubs
+(<i>meri-meri</i>, literally "Fire of the Gods"), made of primitive rock. Each
+Maori who had a club beside him swung it with wild gesticulation, while
+the rest tossed in the air the ends of their woollen garments. In order to
+give us a more complete idea of their ancient customs, a war-dance
+succeeded to this, in which men, women, and children took a part. Although
+this is nothing but a confused advance and retreat of two bodies of people
+arranged opposite each other in regular order, who suddenly rush towards
+each other with impetuous vehemence and loud discordant cries, yet the
+wild shrieks, the rapid motions of those who took part
+<!--110.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span>in
+it, the rolling
+of the eyes, the protrusion of the tongues, combined to make a formidable
+impression, and to give some idea of the frightful appearance of these
+warriors, when, instead of simulated rage, they were animated by the
+ferocity of real warfare with the foe! As soon as symptoms of lassitude
+and fatigue began to be visible among the war-dancers they arranged
+themselves, at the command of the old chief, Patuóni, on both sides, three
+ranks deep, and permitted the strangers to pass from end to end of the
+camp. Here we were once more welcomed in genuine New Zealand fashion by
+the various chiefs, some of whom endeavoured to strike up a conversation.
+Mr. W. Baker, Government interpreter, and Secretary to the Native
+Department, who had been desired by Government to attend the <i>Novara</i>
+staff to the feast, was so kind as to translate.</p>
+
+<p>The first to emerge from the ranks was Paora Tuhaera of Oraki, who spoke
+as follows: "Welcome, O chief from a foreign shore, messenger of a king
+and a nation of which we only lately have heard tell! Our English friends
+explained to us that your countrymen have long been friends and allies of
+the British people, whose Queen is our protectress, and under whose laws
+we live in undisturbed tranquillity on our own lands. You are a stranger
+among us! You for the first time behold a race whose fathers passed their
+lives in ignorance, in war, in the practice of every evil custom. You have
+been present at this place and witnessed how we sought once to give vent
+to our passions and to scare our enemies. This
+<!--111.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span>spectacle
+you saw in
+peace, and no man ventured or even thought of lifting the hand against
+you! Yet had you come among us at the period of which I spoke, our arm
+would have been raised to inflict the deadly blow upon you, or your hand,
+which I have just pressed, would have been striking at me to compass my
+destruction! You have seen many lands, many perhaps fairer than this
+island of ours; but here there is nothing to injure us or to make us wish
+to live in other countries. The laws of England shield us from the hand of
+the aggressor, we live happy and at peace, and rejoice to welcome those
+who, like you, come to us on a mission of good will!"</p>
+
+<p>This speech and the two following, the Commodore responded to in English,
+in terms of warm cordial thanks, and enlarged on the material and
+intellectual progress of the aborigines, all which was duly translated by
+Mr. Baker to the Maories.</p>
+
+<p>After this Cruera Patuóni of Awataha, an elder brother of
+Tamati-Waka-Néni, advanced and said: "Welcome! welcome! The young men have
+welcomed you, and I, an old man, a friend of the Europeans from the
+earliest days in which they planted foot in New Zealand, I also bid you
+welcome! What can I say more? You have heard what we were,&mdash;you see now
+what we are! It needs not that I should add to what has been said by those
+who spoke before me. Welcome then to the land of the Maories, friends of
+the white
+man."<!--112.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After several more of the younger chiefs had greeted the Commodore and
+staff in the most hearty manner, Hui Haupapa, of colossal stature and
+frank expression of countenance, made with his powerful arm a passage for
+himself through the compact crowd, placed himself in a somewhat theatrical
+position, and began in a loud voice, and in evident excitement,
+brandishing his meri-meri as he spoke:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"The chiefs of this neighbourhood have welcomed thee. My tribe lives far
+from here, but <i>I</i> am here, and I bid thee welcome! Thou hast said we are
+happy and live at peace. It is true the laws of our Queen have contributed
+to this fortunate state of things. Formerly, war, murder, and spilling of
+blood formed our chief occupation. Even now troubles arise, which it is
+often difficult to smooth over. Just as thou wert landing we were engaged
+reading a letter informing us that a dispute of long standing between the
+Ngatiwhatua and the Uriohare threatened to give rise to a war. Were we
+still in our old Maori state we should assuredly have had recourse to arms
+for its settlement, but the two tribes will remember that the laws do not
+permit one family of our Queen's children to make war against another, and
+they will therefore restrain their anger in the hope that their
+differences may be amicably arranged. But what interest have these things
+for you? You came to us in peace and friendliness, take with you the love
+of the entire assembly, which is proud of having been visited by an
+officer of the great king, who is a friend of Queen Victoria and her
+children."<!--113.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The natives, who were standing closely packed on either side, and listened
+in breathless silence, expressed their acquiescence by head and hand at
+the end of each oration. The manner in which they are accustomed to
+express themselves at these assemblies is quite unique. The speaker plants
+himself at a distance of about ten steps from his audience, whom he
+gradually approaches in his speech till within three feet, when he turns
+round in silence, resumes his former distance, and begins anew. This
+custom has several advantages; it gives the orator time to collect his
+thoughts, while his eloquence has time to sink into the heart of his
+hearers. Each speaker advances his opinions and sentiments with singular
+calmness and dignity. Only at certain "points," which seem to him to be of
+importance, does the orator throw up his right hand, while on his left
+arm, hanging by his side, lies his stone club, without which no chief
+would think of addressing a meeting.</p>
+
+<p>During these speeches we had drawn near the groups surrounding us. The
+majority were dressed in European clothes, the chiefs usually wearing a
+black cap with gold band, the rest in the most various costumes,
+apparently as accident or caprice had dictated their choice. The old men
+were tattooed more or less, according to their rank, strongly contrasting
+with their European habiliments. The elder women, except that they were
+bare-footed, were mostly clad in European dress, some even in elegant
+silks and muslins, and had their lips and chins tattooed, whereas the
+young folk
+<!--114.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span>of
+both sexes no longer followed that custom, and hence we
+frequently had occasion to remark exceedingly agreeable features. Only a
+very small number of aborigines seemed to be contented with their own
+national dress, and wore either the universal blanket, or else the Cacahu,
+a handsome kind of cloak, very artistically made by the Maori women from
+the fibres of the New Zealand flax. All had the flaps of their ears
+pierced, and a piece of oval-shaped rock passed through the orifice, or
+were adorned with shark's teeth, which are usually made fast to a narrow
+black silk ribbon. As we inspected some of these groups, and especially
+were admiring their splendid figures, we came upon two individuals who had
+hid their heads under their blankets, and were weeping bitterly. To our
+inquiry as to the cause of their uncontrollable grief amid such a festive
+gathering, we were told that they were two relatives who had long been
+separated, and were thus celebrating their meeting again. Friends and
+relations usually express their joy at seeing each other again by sitting
+for hours together, according to their friendship or esteem, rubbing noses
+and sobbing bitterly, and weeping over each other the while! If unobserved
+this will go on with uncovered head; otherwise they will draw a blanket
+over themselves. Kissing and hand-shaking have only become a fashion among
+the New Zealanders since their more intimate intercourse with Europeans.</p>
+
+<p>As we withdrew from this singular never-to-be-forgotten people's festival,
+and were on our way to our boats, the entire
+<!--115.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span>merry
+multitude assembled on
+the slope in front of the tents, and to show, it may be supposed, that
+they were not unacquainted with the usages of other countries, gave, with
+genuine English good-will, three rousing hurrahs in honour of the
+departing guests!</p>
+
+<p>The study of the language and history of the traditions, habits, and
+morals of the aborigines of New Zealand, must necessarily be of special
+interest on account of our presumed acquaintance with the race they are
+descended from, and the important conclusions thence deducible as to the
+settlement of Polynesia at large.</p>
+
+<p>A Maori legend relates that their first progenitors came in seven canoes
+from the island of Hawaiki (i. e. cradle of the race), one of the Sandwich
+Islands, 4000 miles to the N.E. of New Zealand.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> These canoes had
+outriggers to prevent foundering, and were called Amatiatia, whereas those
+they now use, which are also of very simple construction, are named Wakka,
+and have evidently borrowed their form from the dried seed of the New
+Zealand honey-suckle (<i>Rewarewa</i>). The first canoe that came from Hawaiki
+was named Arawa. It brought over Honmaitawiti, Tamakekapua, Toi, Maka,
+Hei, Jhenga, Tauninihi, Rongokako, and others, and these were the first
+settlers from whom the New Zealanders are
+descended.<!--116.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span></p>
+
+<p>One of the earlier authors respecting these isles of the Antipodes,
+Richard Taylor, the missionary, relates that in 1840 there was living in
+the village of Para-para, on the road from Kaitaia to Doubtless Bay, an
+aged New Zealand chief named Hahakai, who was thoroughly conversant with
+the history of his native land, and used to enumerate twenty-six
+generations since the first arrival on the island of the ancestors of his
+tribe. Taylor is of opinion, however, that a number of these generations
+must be considered as divinities, and that hardly more than fifteen
+generations or five hundred years can have elapsed since the first
+vagrants from the north settled in New Zealand.<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> At that period they
+knew neither the custom of Taboo (the sanctity and inviolability of all
+things) nor cannibalism, both of which customs they first began to
+practise in their adopted country. As the aborigines before the arrival of
+the Europeans possessed no written language, these traditions were usually
+handed down from father to son, while one or more relatives of the more
+influential families of each tribe were duly set apart to study
+<!--117.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span>their
+traditions, as well as their laws (<i>tikanga</i>) and religious ceremonies.
+The persons thus educated supplied for them the place of annals, books of
+laws, or written precedents.</p>
+
+<p>Both Taylor and Dieffenbach incline to the opinion of older authors
+respecting these twin islands, namely, that at the period when these
+immigrants from the north arrived there, they were inhabited by another
+dark race of a different descent. Against this hypothesis, however, there
+is to be urged that not the slightest vestige of any such race can be
+produced, in addition to which there is but one language spoken throughout
+the extent of the islands, with dialects few in number and hardly
+differing from each other. In none of the many Maori legends is any
+mention made, either express or implied, of any such circumstance, which
+one would think would hardly have been passed over in silence, had the
+islands at the first landing of the emigrants from Hawaiki been inhabited
+by another race. The great disparity in physical frame between
+individuals, recalling now the Malay, now the Chinese type, and even the
+African and Jewish as well, is much more probably explained by the
+intermixture of the New Zealanders with the inhabitants of the various
+island groups, which they visited at the period of their migration.</p>
+
+<p>The Maories are on the whole a handsome race of men, well-built and
+powerful, generally not less in stature than the Europeans, whom they
+resemble somewhat in their complexion, which gives the idea rather of
+being embrowned
+<!--118.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span>than
+naturally brown, by their thin, weak hair, sometimes
+black, sometimes of a chesnut brown, and whom they closely approach in
+their features. Indeed full-blood Maories sometimes have such a European
+aspect, that even the numberless tattoo marks upon their faces do not
+destroy the impression, but have rather the appearance of those "painted
+faces" we are accustomed to see in actors, when they wish to give their
+countenances a more effective cast upon the boards.</p>
+
+<p>The custom of tattooing, or "Moko," is one of those most characteristic of
+this remarkable people, and is worth being described in detail, inasmuch
+as it has been almost entirely discontinued since the diffusion of
+Christianity, for, according to the sentiments of the missionaries, every
+native, henceforth, who submits to this operation is held to have
+renounced Christianity, and to have openly dubbed himself a heathen. It
+has been suggested as the most probable explanation of the rapid spread of
+this painful practice, that the "Moko" imparts to the countenance a
+sterner expression in presence of the enemy, and that the Maori women
+attach more importance to the caresses of a tattooed man than of one whose
+visage is unmarked. Possibly tattooing was a symbol of puberty in both
+sexes, and a token of their being of marriageable age.</p>
+
+<p>At first they contented themselves with marking the face with certain
+straight lines, called by the natives Moko-Kuri, which was the stage it
+had attained when Cook visited these islands. The present complicated
+system of tattooing was
+<!--119.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span>first
+introduced by one of the tribes of the east
+coast by a certain Mataora, and the first man whose face was thus tattooed
+was named Onetunga.</p>
+
+<p>Usually this painful operation is performed by a priest (<i>Tohunga</i>), who
+paints, or rather sketches out, one of the many different models with
+black colouring matter upon the face of the person to be tattooed, having
+first obtained his opinion, by showing him his visage reflected in a
+tub-full of water for lack of a mirror. As soon as the latter has
+signified his assent to the design selected, the further process is begun.</p>
+
+<p>The instruments used were the following:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>The "Uhi," a small piece of wood, one extremity of which is armed with a
+small piece of sharp-edged bone, set in a vertical direction. This
+needle-like tool, which was formerly made either of human bones or of
+those of the albatross, has been since supplanted by proper steel
+instruments.</p>
+
+<p>The "Ta" or "Tuki," a stalk of fern, which is pressed upon the Uhi in
+order that it might enter the skin, and bring out the desired pattern.</p>
+
+<p>The necessary colouring stuff (<i>Ngarahu</i>) is made from the soot of the
+wood, when burnt, of the Kauri fir (<i>Dammara Australis</i>), which is
+collected in the leaves of the Ti-reed (<i>Cordyline Australis</i>), and is
+prepared with an infusion of the bark of the Hináu (<i>Elæocarpus Hinau</i>),
+in the form of small cones.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately before the tattooing begins, the colouring matter thus
+prepared is moistened with the juice of the fruit of Tupa-kihi (<i>Coriaria
+Sarmentosa</i>). The complete "Moko"
+<!--120.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span>comprises
+the face, the hips, and the
+upper surface of the thigh as far as the knee. Every separate tattooing
+has its appropriate name and its special position. Dieffenbach counts 17,
+and Richmond Taylor 19 of these, distinguishable by their several
+markings.</p>
+
+<p>The operation is of so severe a nature, that very frequently it cannot be
+completed without endangering the life of the individual. Only one
+instance is on record, in which a native sat out the whole formidable
+process at one sitting, and he died just as the last line was finished.
+Usually the first tattooing took place at the 18th year, and was continued
+at various intervals. During the process, the patient lies on the ground
+with his head reposing on the bosom of the <i>Tohunga</i>, who holds the "Uhi"
+in his left hand, and the "Ta" or "Tuki" in his right, which he strikes
+upon the former with a rapid constant motion. As soon as an incision is
+made, the blood is wiped off with a piece of fine flax, and the colouring
+matter rubbed in. While this is going on the priests and the friends
+standing by keep up a continual chant, in order to cheer the patient and
+stimulate his courage.</p>
+
+<p>After the operation the face swells, and for some time presents a
+downright hideous appearance, and instances have occurred in which it has
+been permanently distorted. Usually, however, the wounds heal after ten or
+twelve days, when the incised lines made by the "Uhi" present a
+bluish-black appearance.</p>
+
+<p>With the women the operation is much more simple, being
+<!--121.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span>confined
+to one
+or two vertical or horizontal lines upon the lip and chin. This tattooing
+occasionally, however, takes place twice, in order to bring out a black
+colour, as the New Zealanders consider a black lip as the very ideal of
+beauty. It also figures as such in the songs chanted by the Tohunga on
+such occasions, of which the following stanzas may be presented as a
+specimen:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Be ready, my daughter, to have thyself marked,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To tattoo thy chin!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That, when thou crossest the threshold of a strange house,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They may not say, "Whence cometh this ugly woman?"<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Be ready, my daughter, to have thyself marked,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To tattoo thy chin!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That thou mayst have a comely aspect,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That when thou art bidden to a feast,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They may not ask, "Whence cometh this <i>red-lipped</i> woman?"<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">To make thyself beautiful<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Come and be tattooed!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That when thou dost enter the circle of dancers,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They may not ask, "Whence cometh this woman with the ugly lips?"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The Tohunga is usually well remunerated, and frequently in the course of
+his chant makes allusion to the amount of reward he expects, and indeed
+sometimes stimulates the generosity of his patient by singing amongst
+other ditties, something like</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"The man who is paid well<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tattoos beautifully!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The man who receives nothing<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Does not tattoo well!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+<!--122.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The marks, when completely brought out, are so manifold and various that
+hardly any two New Zealanders are to be found who are tattooed entirely
+alike. Accordingly these markings serve neither to indicate variety of
+tribe, nor difference of rank. A slave, if he possess the means, may have
+his face tattooed with the same ornaments as his master. However it
+appears, as we were informed by Colonel Browne, that on the occasion of
+the chiefs ratifying the treaty with the English, they superscribed the
+various documents with the lines upon their faces, like so much heraldic
+blazonry, instead of writing their names.</p>
+
+<p>Another remarkable custom of the Maori consists in the right of the priest
+to declare certain persons and things <i>taboo</i>, that is, consecrated and
+inviolable. This custom, which is nothing else than a religious ordinance
+instituted for political purposes, is frequently most beneficial in its
+consequences. So great and universal was the respect paid to the law of
+<i>taboo</i>, that even hostile tribes were in the habit during war of leaving
+unharmed all persons and things thus protected. A plot of ground planted
+with esculents, a fruit tree, a sick person, a "lady in the straw,"&mdash;all
+these were so many objects declared holy and inviolate.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly polygamy was tolerably frequent among the Maori, although
+instances were by no means rare in which a man had but one wife to whom he
+continued faithful. At present this custom, incompatible with the
+Christian notion
+<!--123.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span>of
+the family tie, is confined to those few chiefs who
+are still heathens.</p>
+
+<p>Usually the young men and girls marry very young. English travellers state
+they have seen a mother only 11 years of age! Usually the first wife of a
+young chief is much older than himself, but, on the other hand, instances
+were frequent of old men marrying young girls. The daughters of men of
+very high rank frequently remained unmarried.</p>
+
+<p>The mortality among infants under a year old is very great. At present not
+more than three children are reckoned to each family, and the number of
+barren marriages is much greater than those that prove fruitful.</p>
+
+<p>Infanticide is at present as rare as in Europe. In former times,
+especially during the wars of the interior, it was by no means unusual for
+a mother to put her children to death, especially if females, in order to
+spare herself the trouble of nursing and bringing up. Male offspring, on
+the contrary, were taken more care of, because they would increase the
+aggressive power of the tribe, and were looked upon as the avengers of
+injuries sustained and not yet compensated. Illegitimate children they
+almost always put to death, either by strangling them or compressing the
+mouth and nostrils. The practice of infanticide among the weaker sex took
+its rise chiefly in the life of slavery which was the normal state of the
+women during their heathen condition. Such was the reasoning once avowed
+by a murderess of her
+<!--124.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span>child:&mdash;"Why
+should my child live? to be brought up
+as the slave of the wives of my husband, to be beaten and kicked by them!"</p>
+
+<p>There seems to be some mistake in the assertion of several writers upon
+the customs prevalent in New Zealand, to the effect that on the death of a
+Maori it is customary to sacrifice his nearest relatives. Only when a
+great chief dies, are some of his slaves occasionally put to death at the
+same time, that their spirits may accompany him who has preceded them to
+the shadowy land, to serve him there, and execute his commands as they did
+while on earth.</p>
+
+<p>So too it occasionally happened that, on the death of a much-esteemed
+chief, a hostile incursion was made by a number of warriors, in order to
+provide a victim from another tribe, and thus make it feel the same pang
+as that which they were suffering in the loss of their chief. Suicide, on
+the death of a near relative, is even at present far from uncommon as a
+token of inconsolable grief. A low estimate of the value of life seems to
+be a leading feature in the character of the New Zealander; it needs but a
+slight cause to make him take his own life or plunge into some abyss.</p>
+
+<p>Slavery, to the extent that existed among the aborigines in former times,
+is no longer to be found, though many prisoners taken in war are still
+held as slaves by their captors. In many cases the slaves prefer to stay
+with their present masters, if they have been well treated, rather than
+return among their own race, from whom they feel themselves
+<!--125.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span>estranged,
+and by whom it is probable they have long been forgotten.</p>
+
+<p>The introduction of Christianity was immediately followed by the
+manumission of all slaves throughout the islands. Under the old laws, the
+owner of a slave was undisputed master of his person and property, and
+might put him to death, or sell him,&mdash;in short, do with him as he pleased.
+Everything that the slave possessed belonged to his master. Slaves were
+usually made in battle, either during the storming of a fortified village,
+or <i>páh</i>, or during flight before a victorious enemy. Each warrior might
+take as many prisoners as he could, who thereupon became his incontestable
+property. Chiefs, however, and youths of rank were usually put to death on
+the spot.</p>
+
+<p>The offspring of such prisoners of war were also slaves, and equally the
+property of their masters. However, it frequently happened that a young
+slave married a girl of the tribe of his conqueror, in which case their
+offspring were no longer considered as slaves, although they were reputed
+of low rank. According to the old Maori laws, there were no slaves other
+than those taken in war and their descendants.</p>
+
+<p>Among the free Maori, there are a number of varying grades; but the
+principles on which they are bestowed do not seem as yet to have been
+accurately ascertained by any European observers. Any individual who is
+able to trace his descent from distinguished parentage of either sex, has
+the right to assume the title of a chief. As a rule, the elder branch of a
+<!--126.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span>family
+takes precedence over the younger. The heir-male was always
+regarded as the head of the family, and in the olden times was its priest
+or <i>tohunga</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The wars of the Maori were chiefly carried on with spears and clubs of
+various shapes and sizes, but since the arrival of the Europeans the use
+of fire-arms has become almost universal. Hángi, one of the most renowned
+and formidable chiefs, who visited England in 1826, on his return
+exchanged all the splendid presents made him by George IV. for European
+fire-arms and ammunition, in order the more readily to subjugate all the
+races on the island by means of these new and dangerous weapons, and make
+himself omnipotent. Since that period the older warlike implements
+(<i>taiaha</i>, <i>paki</i>, <i>ehi</i>) have only been kept as objects of curiosity for
+the various chiefs to show.</p>
+
+<p>But the most remarkable weapon of the New Zealanders, which was held by
+the chiefs in high honour as an emblem of rank, a sceptre so to speak, and
+which descended from generation to generation, is a piece of nephrite
+beautifully polished, from 10 to 20 inches long, 4 to 5 inches broad, and
+half an inch thick, called by the natives Meri-meri, "the fire of the
+gods," which is pierced at one end, and is usually attached to a cord
+passed round the hand. In the days of heathenism the Meri-meri was used
+occasionally as a weapon of defence, as also to scalp prisoners.</p>
+
+<p>The various weapons of nephrite that we had an opportunity of examining
+were of a pale green colour, which became
+<!--127.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span>transparent
+at the sharp edge,
+which ran all round, and had a peculiar flame-like glow.</p>
+
+<p>The stone from which these costly weapons are made (the manufacture of
+which, in consequence of the dearth of suitable instruments before the
+arrival of the Europeans, was often the work of several generations), is
+found in loose fragments among the various mountain-streams along the west
+coast of the central island. The places where they are found in greatest
+abundance are Arahura and Ohonu on the N.W. coast, beyond Wakatipu, an
+inland lake, one of the sources of the river Matan, and Piopiotahi, a
+mountain-torrent on the S.W. coast. At the last-mentioned place, which,
+although we have little reliable information concerning it, has long been
+known to seal-hunters, a gigantic block of nephrite, many tons weight, was
+found in the middle of the current, which owing to its size was valueless,
+because useless to the aborigines. A sealer, who visited this coast once
+during a flying visit to Sydney, overheard a remark that this description
+of stone was much prized in China, and being aware of the existence of
+this colossal block of nephrite at Piopiotahi, he already beheld himself
+the possessor of considerable wealth. A company was quickly got up, with a
+merchant from Manila at the head, and a number of miners were forthwith
+sent to the spot, in order to blast the huge, unshapen rock into fragments
+admitting of easy transport. After immense labour and incredible hardships
+a few tons of the rock thus blasted were dispatched by the labourers to
+<!--128.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span>Manila
+for the purpose of being tested and examined. The workmen remained
+some months at Piopiotahi, anxiously awaiting intelligence of the results
+of their toil. At last, when they had about exhausted their provisions,
+and were still without intelligence, they buried the fruits of their
+exertions, and dispersed themselves among the small Maori settlements
+adjoining Foveau Straits.</p>
+
+<p>The samples of nephrite were duly sent from Manila to China, where they
+proved to be of very poor quality, being disfigured by small black specks.
+For some years after small quantities of nephrite were annually brought
+for sale from the Piopiotahi to Wellington, where they found plenty of
+purchasers among the natives of that district at about 1<i>s.</i> per lb.</p>
+
+<p>In former days the Maori used to make long and difficult journeys from the
+east to the west coast of the island, in search for the much-prized stone.
+When found it was usually shaped and polished by rubbing it upon a flat
+sandstone block; this operation was so long and arduous that its
+completion was often the work of two generations; and this is probably the
+main reason why such value is attached to it. The extraordinary hardness
+of the stone, which admits of its being ground to a very sharp edge, also
+made it an excellent substitute for iron in the manufacture of hatchets
+and chisels, the New Zealanders having only become acquainted with that
+metal since their intercourse with the Europeans.</p>
+
+<p>The shape which the Maories gave the Meri-meri when completed, resulting
+from the absence of implements with which
+<!--129.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span>to
+manipulate this stone, which
+is so hard that even iron does not bite it, probably gave rise to the
+notion that when found the stone is in a soft state. Sandstone, however,
+is found efficacious in the process just as it polishes iron also, and the
+holes requisite for suspending it, are made by the very simple process of
+drilling with a piece of pointed hard wood, with fine sand and a little
+water.</p>
+
+<p>Cannibalism may be said to have entirely ceased in New Zealand. Any
+allusion to this revolting practice is very painful to the New Zealander
+of the present day, as reminding him of his former low position in the
+scale of nations. Every time that we endeavoured to make any inquiry of
+the natives respecting this custom, they withdrew with an ashamed look.</p>
+
+<p>In like manner dog's flesh has ceased to be an article of food, ever since
+the introduction of pork by Captain Cook. Formerly the native or Maori
+dog, which at present is very scarce, was eaten on certain occasions,
+while its blood played a somewhat conspicuous part in Maori pharmacy.</p>
+
+<p>The vegetables most extensively used for food before the arrival of the
+Europeans were:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>1. Raorao (<i>Pteris esculenta</i>), a fern three or four feet high, which
+covers vast tracts of land, and the root of which, before the introduction
+of the Peruvian potato, formed the chief subsistence of the Maori.</p>
+
+<p>2. Kumara (<i>Convolvulus Batata</i>), or sweet potato, the most valuable of
+New Zealand products. Various legends of adventure exist among the natives
+respecting its first introduction.
+<!--130.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span>The
+harvest-time for this plant is
+accompanied by a grand festival, and the fields in which the Kumara is
+grown, as well as the labourers engaged in raising it, were declared by
+the priests <i>taboo</i>, or consecrated. Of the varieties of the Kumara, one,
+the size of a yam-root, is named <i>Kai-pakeha</i>, or "white man's food," and
+is exceedingly palatable. The common potato (<i>Solanum tuberosum</i>) was
+first brought hither from the Cape of Good Hope, by Captain Cook, who
+planted it here.</p>
+
+<p>3. Mamaku (<i>Cyathea Medullaris</i>), one of the most elegant tree-ferns in
+the country, whose whole stalk, sometimes 20 feet high, is edible, and is
+sufficient to maintain a considerable number of persons. The pith of the
+Mamaku, when cooked and dried in the sun, is an excellent substitute for
+sago.</p>
+
+<p>Fermented liquors, like the Kawa of the South Sea Islanders, or the Chicha
+of the Indians of Southern and Central America, seem never to have been
+known to the New Zealanders.<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> The only fruits from which liquors are
+occasionally prepared are the Tawa (<i>Laurus Tawa</i>) and those of the
+Trepa-Kihi (<i>Coriaria Sarmentosa</i>), the latter of which, however, when the
+stamens of many are mingled together, is apt to be followed by symptoms of
+poisoning, resulting in violent convulsions and death.</p>
+
+<p>Although their short stay at Auckland, coupled with other indispensable
+business, did not admit making an adequate number of measurements of the
+physical proportions of both
+<!--131.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span>sexes
+of natives, we nevertheless had an
+opportunity of measuring some individuals, whose appearance seemed to
+present a very fair average.</p>
+
+<p>Here we ought to remark that many years ago, Dr. A. Thomson, surgeon of
+the 58th regiment, impressed apparently with the value of these
+experiments as aiding the diagnostics of various races of men, had made a
+great number of measurements of the natives during a long residence on the
+island. These, however, were mainly confined to height, weight, magnitude
+of chest, and physical strength of individuals, but which are of much
+value, having been compared at the time with similar results obtained from
+an equal number of British soldiers, thus furnishing most interesting
+standards of comparison for the two races. Dr. Thomson measured, for
+instance, the height of 147 natives, and found them to average 5 ft. 6&nbsp;<sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub>
+inches. Of these, 35 measured 5 ft. 6 in. to 5 ft. 7 in.; 20 from 5 ft. 5
+in. to 5 ft. 6 in.; 2 from 5 ft. 11 in. to 6 ft.; one 6 ft. 1 in.; and one
+who measured 6 ft. 5&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> in. Of 617 men of the 58th regiment, the average
+height was 5 ft. 7&nbsp;<sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> inches.</p>
+
+<p>Like the English, the Maories attain their full stature after they have
+completed their 20th year, the average height of 46 individuals between 16
+and 20 being 5 ft. 6 in., whereas of individuals between 21 and 25 it was
+5 ft. 6&nbsp;<sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> inches, the average height of the human race in the temperate
+climes of Europe being 5 ft. 5 in. to 5 ft. 6 in., according to Haller.</p>
+
+<p>The weight of New Zealanders, as compared with that of English soldiers,
+gave the following remarkable result in the
+<!--132.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span>case
+of 150 men of both races
+who were examined at Auckland:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="center"> 8</td><td align="center">Maories</td><td align="center">weighed</td><td align="center">more</td><td align="center">than</td><td align="center">112</td><td align="center">lbs.,</td><td align="center">but</td><td align="center">less</td><td align="center">than</td><td align="center">126</td><td align="center">lbs.</td><td align="center">avoirdupois.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">25</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">126</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">140</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">54</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">140</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">154</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">41</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">154</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">168</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">19</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">168</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">182</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"> 3</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">182</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">196</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The average weight of a Maori, deducting their mats and clothes, is about
+141 lbs.; of 617 Europeans (both English and Irish), who were weighed, the
+average weight was 143 lbs. Dr. Thompson found the natives under 21 less
+fully developed than soldiers of the same age, but after that the Maori
+began to turn the beam as regards weight.</p>
+
+<p>The girth of the chest, measured above the nipples, gave as the average of
+151 natives 35.36 inches; of 628 soldiers of the 58th regiment, 35.71
+inches. Between 16 and 20 the chest of the native is more than half an
+inch less than that of the European; a little later it is found to be
+about the same.</p>
+
+<p>In order to test the physical and muscular strength of the Maori, Dr.
+Thompson made them lift the utmost weights they could from the ground,
+with the following results from 31 individuals on whom he experimented:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="center">6</td><td align="center">New Zealanders</td><td align="center">lifted</td><td align="center">410</td><td align="center">to</td><td align="center">420</td><td align="center">lbs.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">400</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">410</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">5</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">390</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">400</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">3</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">380</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">390</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">6</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">360</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">380</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">5</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">340</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">360</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">336</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">250</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">266</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<!--133.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span></p>
+<p>The average of the foregoing gives 367 lbs., the highest being 420 lbs.,
+the lowest 250 lbs. A similar experiment made with 31 soldiers of the 58th
+regiment (averaging in weight 144 lbs.) gave the following figures:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="center"> 2</td><td align="center">soldiers</td><td align="center">lifted</td><td align="center">504</td><td align="center">lbs.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"> 6</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">460</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">to</td><td align="center">480</td><td align="center">lbs.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">14</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">400</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">460</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"> 9</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">350</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">400</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Thus the average weight which the British soldiers could lift from the
+ground was 422 lbs., or 55 lbs. more than the Maori.</p>
+
+<p>Perron in his "Voyage des Découvertes aux Terres Australes," observed as
+the result of numerous experiments, that the weakest Frenchman had more
+muscular strength than the most powerful native of Van Diemen's Land, and
+that the weakest Englishman was stronger than the strongest native of New
+Holland. Judging by that standard, the Maories are of a far more powerful
+build than the Australian aborigines.</p>
+
+<p>What appears to us most interesting in the results of Dr. Thomson's
+observations, is the immense disparity of the muscular strength of the
+Maori as compared with that of the Anglo-Saxon race, although in height,
+weight, and girth they so closely resemble them. The main reason of this
+astonishing dissimilarity is undoubtedly due in the main to the
+exclusively vegetable diet of the New Zealanders, which it is well known
+promotes the deposition of fat in the system, without proportionately
+increasing the amount of muscular tissue.
+<!--134.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span>Moreover
+the uniform,
+uneventful life of the Maories by no means tends to the development of
+muscular strength.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Thomson justly remarks that the foregoing facts completely demolish
+the arguments of those who find a pleasure in representing the world as
+degenerating, and mankind as much less powerful and free from blemish than
+in former ages, ere trade and civilization had exercised their
+unpropitious influence upon the habits and manners of mankind. For here we
+have the New Zealanders, living up to the present century a life of the
+most primitive simplicity, yet evidently in respect of mere corporeal
+strength lagging far behind the denizens of a country, where culture and
+machinery have brought about social changes of such magnitude, as no other
+civilized people on the globe can show.</p>
+
+<p>Of few races inhabiting the southern hemisphere, have the proverbs,
+poetry, songs, and traditions been the subject of such zealous study as
+those of the Maori, and no one has made more careful investigation into
+this interesting feature than the present Governor, Sir George Grey, who
+set on foot most minute inquiries into the older history of the Maori,
+which he published in a variety of valuable works,<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> although several of
+the missionaries, as also educated settlers of many years' standing in the
+colony, have extended our acquaintance
+<!--135.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span>with
+the Maori race, by the
+publication of a grammar and dictionary of the Maori language, as also
+many valuable works upon the natural history of the New Zealand
+Islands.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a></p>
+
+<p>To this most honourable and widely-diffused activity, science is indebted
+for a specimen of literature which furnishes an excellent sample of the
+high cultivation of the native race, and makes us acquainted with moral
+axioms and pieces of poetry which would do honour even to a poet of
+Caucasian descent.</p>
+
+<p>We subjoin a few adages and short poems of Sir George Grey's valuable
+collections, which more especially indicate the dignified character and
+originality of thought of this singular people, and are taken from a
+larger number embraced in Sir George Grey's collection of "Proverbial and
+Popular Sayings" already mentioned.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Canst thou still the surf that breaks on the Shoal of<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Rongo-mai-ta-kupe? (Alluding to the difficulty of allaying a<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">revolt.)<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+<!--136.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span></p>
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The little child grows, but the little axe remains for ever<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">little (i. e. manhood is more valuable than any other<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">possession).<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Capricious as a salmon in the stream or a girl on shore.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The flounder flies back to hide itself in the water it has<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">mudded.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">You can search the dark corner of a house, but not the heart of<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">a man.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Bad food will not make a man mean, but a noble man makes mean<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">food respectable.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Kokowai or red ochre sucks up oil when you mix them. (If a chief<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">visits you, he and his followers soon absorb all your property!)<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">A smooth tree you may climb, however tall it is; but how can you<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">pass over the sea, glassy as it looks?<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Perhaps, although I am little, you will find me troublesome as a<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">sandfly.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Although hidden from us, we know there are plenty of roots of<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">the wild convolvulus running under the ground there; so with the<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">evil thoughts of our hearts.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">You won't care to look long at the good food you have before<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">you, but a face you love you can often look at (a pretty wife is<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">better worth getting than a rich one).<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">A girl's beauty is like a fine day, a storm soon follows it; so<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">old age and ugliness follow close upon loveliness.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">There are a multitude of stars in the heavens, but a very little<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">cloud covers many of them (meaning that a small band of resolute<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">men may defeat a large number).<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">If he had taken refuge on a mountain-top we could have climbed<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">it; if he had taken refuge amidst ocean's surge our canoes could<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">have contended with it; but having taken shelter under the<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">protection of a <i>mighty chief</i>, who can reach him there?<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">If you have a sperm whale's tooth, you must also have a sperm<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">whale's jaw to carry it!<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Quick in speech, slow to act; promises are quickly made, the<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">body is slow to move.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">A fathomless throat, but no industry; a monster's appetite, but<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">no perseverance in labour.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">He is ascending the snow-capped mountains of Ruahmi (i. e. he is<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">growing old).<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Rangipo and Raeroa started together on a journey. Rangipo<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">carried his god <i>alone</i> with him; Raeroa carried his god on his<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">back, and <i>food</i> in his hand; Rangipo died,&mdash;Raeroa lived.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The block of wood has no business to dictate to the artist who<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">carves it.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">I can scarcely look out eagerly from the hill-top!<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">A mouth, ready as a salmon, to spring at its prey.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">He is a descendant of Ki-ki, who was so skilled in magic that<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">his shadow withered trees and plants if it fell on
+them.<!--137.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span><br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The grasp of a chief's red hand cannot be loosened, but the<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">grasp of a slave, what strength has it?<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Few are the friends that aid at planting, but when the crops are<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">gathered they come in shoals.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">An old broken canoe may be mended, but youth and beauty cannot<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">be restored:&mdash;<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">A fat man has been fattened by food, not by active thought; you<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">will find him full, but not wise.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Women and war are the two dangers of men.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">A woman probably hears the foe sing as they sacrifice to their<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">gods the bodies of her slaughtered relatives (i. e. it is of<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">little use to have a daughter, she will perhaps raise up heirs<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">for your foes).<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Women and land are the causes which destroy men.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The Moa-bird (<i>Dinornis gigantea</i>) trampled down the Rata tree<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">(<i>Metrosidero Robusta</i>) when it was young; how then can you<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">expect it to grow straight now? (i. e. it is difficult to<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">overcome early influences.)<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">It is from food that a man's blood is made, and it is land which<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">grows his food and sustains him. (Never part with your own land,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">and do not yield a fertile district.)<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Persist in all as resolutely as you persist in eating.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Be firm as the surf-beaten rock in the ocean!<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Another man's food you must eat little bits of; food won by your<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">own labour you may eat plenty of, and satisfy your hunger well.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">An axe, though very little, can do as much as a man in clearing<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">away a forest.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">A fish begins nibbling gently upwards before he bites, and you<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">begin a steep ascent from the bottom (from trifling disputes<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">fierce wars arise).<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Not less conspicuous is the vigour displayed in the poetical conceptions
+of the Maori. There is in them a depth of sentiment, a vividness of
+imagery, which would almost make us doubtful of their true origin, if the
+original were not at hand to compare with.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, for example, how beautifully do the following lines, borrowed from a
+dirge for the chief Te-Huhu, describe the wild anguish of a warlike
+people, mourning the loss of a beloved leader:&mdash;</p>
+
+<!--138.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 1em;">
+DIRGE OF TE-HUHU.
+</div>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Behold the glare of the lightning!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">It seems as though it had cleft in twain the steep hills of Tuwhare.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dropped from thy hand thy weapon,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And thy spirit, it vanished<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Behind the lofty ridges of Raukawa!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The sun hid his face, and hasted away,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">As a woman hurries from the strife of battle!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The waves of ocean mourn as they rise and fall,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And the hills of the south melt away!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For the spirit of the chieftain<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Was winging its way to the dwellings of Rona;<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a><br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Open, ye gates of heaven!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tread thou the first heaven! tread thou the second heaven!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And when thou dost traverse the spirit land,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And its dwellers shall ask thee, "What meaneth this?"<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tell that her wings were torn from this our world,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When <i>he</i> died, the strong one,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Our leader in the roar of battle!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Atutahi and the stars of the morning<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Look pitifully down from their fastnesses,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The earth reels to and fro,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For the mightiest support of her children lies low!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">O my friend! the dew of Hokianga<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Shall penetrate thy body;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The waters of the brooks shall dry up,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And the land become desolate:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I see a cloud rising afar<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Above the head of Heke the renowned!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">May he be annihilated, for ever<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Brought low to nothingness! so may the heart,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Now mourning in its depths, ne'er think of evil more!<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>As deeply imbued with the spirit of true poetry is the
+<!--139.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span>following
+dirge of
+a mother, a heartfelt effusion of maternal affliction for the loss of an
+only daughter:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 1em;">
+A LAMENT FOR NGARO.
+</div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Slow wanes the evening star.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> It disappears<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To rise again in more glorious skies,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where thousands hasten forward to welcome it.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">All that is grand and beautiful has no more value to me,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For thou wast my sole treasure! O my daughter!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When the sunbeams played above the waves,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Or glinted through the waving palms,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Secretly, but with joy, we marked thy sportive gambols<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">By the sandy shores of Awapoka.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Oft in the dawning twilight<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I beheld thee, girt in thy simple robes,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And accompanied by the daughters of thy people,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Speed forth, to see gathered the fruit of the Main,<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a><br /></span>
+<span class="i0">While the maidens from Tikoro<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a><br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sought for thee the mussels hid among the rocks,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Braving the blinding surf, and caught for thee<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The callow brood of the screaming sea-fowl.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And when at even the tribes<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Assembled for the repast,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Beloved companions sought to have thee by their side,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Eagerly contending who should bestow on thee dainties,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That they might win a smile from thy lips;&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But where art thou now? Where now?<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Thou stream which still dost ebb and flow,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Flow and ebb no more,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For she that did love thee is gone!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Well is it for the people, as of old,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To assemble at the feast of pleasure!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The canoe still cleaves the air,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And dashes aside the foam of the heaving sea.<br /></span>
+<!--140.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span><span
+class="i0">As of yore, hovering above the rocky cliffs,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The sea-fowl in clouds obscure the sky!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But the beloved one comes not!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Not even a lock of thy waving tresses<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Is left us to mourn over!<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The truly paternal interest and attention bestowed by the Government on
+the destinies of the New Zealanders, and on the means being adopted to
+raise them morally and materially, as also the repeated asseverations of
+loyalty, fidelity, and gratitude towards the British nation, which were
+constantly in the mouth of the New Zealanders (the Gascons of the South,
+as an English author nicknames them), gave no reason to anticipate that
+the colony was about to become the scene of a war, which can hardly have
+any other result than the total extinction of the small remnant of the
+Maori; for although the English troops have hitherto encountered a severe
+and protracted resistance, and the Maori, intrenched in their <i>Páhs</i>,
+required Armstrong guns, bombs, and heavy artillery to be brought against
+them ere they yielded, yet to the impartial observer the issue of the
+contest cannot be for a moment doubtful. This unhappy contest originated
+in the sale of some land in the province of Taranaki, or New Plymouth, on
+the S.W. shores of the Northern Island. A native, named Te Teira (John
+Taylor), had sold to Government, under the provisions of the treaty of
+Waitangi, a small piece of land adjoining New Plymouth. Rangitakí, or as
+he is better known by his Christian name, Wiremu Kingi (William King), a
+resolute and powerful chief of the Ngatiawa tribe, opposed the sale, on
+<!--141.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span>the
+ground that Te Teira had in fact no right to dispose of this land
+without his consent, and obstructed the surveyors sent by Government to
+measure the piece of ground. On their being reinforced somewhat later,
+Kingi took up arms to resist them, and intrenched himself on the property
+in dispute. How little the Colonial Government intended to encroach upon
+the Maori privileges, is best shown by the circumstance that the Ngatiawa
+tribe, and their allies of the Taranaki, are but 3000 in number, men,
+women, and children all told, who claim as their property districts
+covering an area of 2,000,000 acres, and during the last twenty years have
+only cultivated some small patches along the coast. The white settlers
+also number about 3000, and with the consent of Government have, during
+that period, purchased 40,000 acres, of which hardly one-fourth part is
+devoted to agricultural purposes. On 17th March, 1860, Kingi was at last
+attacked by the English troops under Colonel Gold. This was the
+commencement of a series of sanguinary combats, carried on with the most
+desperate obstinacy,<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> and the more serious, as it stands out in
+singularly bold relief, that the majority of the missionaries, Bishop
+Selwyn and Archdeacon Hadfield at their head, take part with the Maories,
+and that the learned justice, Dr. Martin, endeavours to prove that the war
+has broken out entirely in consequence of a breach of the rights of
+<!--142.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span>property
+by the Colonial Government, and therefore that the conduct of
+the recusant chief, so far from being a rebellion, was a bare vindication
+of right! Nay, it has even been openly stated (and it throws an
+interesting light upon certain political complications in Europe) that the
+Protestant missionaries and certain former <i>protégés</i> of the Government
+are chiefly to blame for the difficulties now existing between the English
+and the natives. Amongst these adversaries a certain Mr. Davis, formerly
+official translator and interpreter, a highly-educated but calculating
+man, who once sung the praises of Sir George Grey, and among other works
+has published the Maori Mementos,<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> so interesting in a historical point
+of view, hit upon the clever notion, in company with a Maori named William
+Thompson, or "The King-maker," of instigating the natives to rebellion.
+With this object in view, they organized far in the interior, among the
+tribes hitherto but little civilized, immense popular gatherings, at which
+in long speeches they always contrived to come back to the assertion that
+the Maories and not the English were the real lords of the soil, and that
+they therefore were entitled to be governed by a king selected from among
+themselves. Thompson, thoroughly versant in the foibles and vanities of
+his
+<!--143.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span>countrymen,
+and supported by ambitious, crafty, intriguing
+foreigners, was speedily master of the situation, and it is much less
+matter of surprise that in 1858 a king was chosen in the person of
+Potatáu<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>-te-Whero-Whero, one of the most renowned of the Waikato tribe,
+than that the Government, from the year 1854, suffered this conduct to go
+unpunished, and with cool indifference beheld the movement grow in
+proportion without taking the slightest precautionary measures!</p>
+
+<p>Only by such indulgence, not to say negligence, did it become possible for
+the native league against the sale of land, and the accompanying King
+movement, to have attained their present importance, the number engaged in
+them having risen to a total of 15,000 able-bodied warriors. Since the
+restrictions recently placed on the importation of weapons and ammunition,
+there have been imported during the last three years fire-arms, powder,
+lead, and caps to the value of £50,000, so that we may estimate their
+present supply of gunpowder at 100,000 lbs. at the least, and the
+fire-arms, exclusive of those imported at the time of Hongi, at about
+20,000 stand.</p>
+
+<p>Already, at Christmas, 1858, when the staff of our Expedition were passing
+a week or two in Auckland, there was a
+<!--144.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span>noticeable
+amount of political
+agitation in various parts of the interior, and we ourselves witnessed
+some chiefs, friendly to the Government, who before starting for a great
+Maori meeting near Drury offered to the Governor their good services, and
+asked his orders. The Maori chiefs, whom Colonel Browne received in his
+study, could only be distinguished from white men by the wonderfully
+copious tattooing on their faces, and were in all other respects attired
+exactly like Europeans. Some wore black round hats and blouses, others
+wore caps. Only in the flaps of their ears they carried small pieces of
+green nephrite, while suspended round the neck by a thick chord was the
+inevitable club-shaped <i>meri-meri</i>, that renowned stone weapon which
+descends as an heir-loom in families, and is so highly prized that a New
+Zealander will pay as high as £100 for one. The chiefs candidly remarked
+that at this gathering the selection of a Maori king would come up for
+decision, and they therefore wished, as loyal and true subjects of the
+Queen of England, which they said they always had been and wished to
+continue, to know from the lips of her representative how they ought to
+act in such a case. Colonel Browne, who like most of the British settlers
+in New Zealand seemed to attach but little importance to the whole Maori
+movement, or, if so, did not like to make it known, simply thanked the
+chiefs for this renewed expression of their loyal sentiments, adding in
+the spirit of Maori oratory that "he had already
+<!--145.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span>considered
+them as good
+friends both to himself and the Government, and therefore left them to act
+as they saw best without further pledge, for he felt fully assured, if the
+chief (who had addressed him) should go to this gathering he might feel as
+if his own right hand were there, and everything therefore would result
+entirely as he could wish." Unhappily these anticipations were not
+realized, but on the contrary a war burst forth out of the long-despised
+movement, of such dimensions, and of such terrible cruelty, that the
+results of the civilization of the last twenty years have been seriously
+imperilled, and the original Maori, divesting himself of the whitewash of
+superficial Christianity, has become suddenly visible in all his savage
+thirst for blood. We do not indeed believe that the whole race have been
+seized with this much-to-be-lamented proclivity towards their old
+barbarism, nor that the application of the proverb (parodied from the
+celebrated <i>mot</i> of Napoleon), "Scratch the Maori and you will find the
+savage beneath," receives its full illustration here; but neither, on the
+other hand, can we resist the conviction that a long continuance of
+hostilities will foster old customs, and that a war waged with
+ever-increasing animosity must ultimately result in the decay and
+extinction of the New Zealand aborigines.</p>
+
+<p>Independently of this, there was visible, even during the former days of
+peace and tranquillity, so marked a falling off of the Maori population,
+that the Colonial Government felt
+<!--146.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span>called
+upon to institute most minute
+inquiries as to the supposed causes of this lamentable feature. In a very
+exhaustive work upon this subject, by Mr. F. D. Fenton,<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> we find for
+example that the proportion of births and deaths among the entire
+population&mdash;the former of which in England is 1 : 59, and the latter 1 :
+34, and among the white settlers of New Zealand is 1 : 136 and 1 :
+25&mdash;gives among the aborigines the following startling results,&mdash;deaths 1
+: 33.04, births 1 : 67.13. The cause of this appalling decay of the Maori
+race, which has been steadily going on since 1830, is not alone due to the
+contact of the natives with civilization, but chiefly to the sanguinary
+wars between the various races, of which New Zealand was the theatre for a
+series of years, and the natural results of those wars. For it was not
+merely that in their constant battles the flower of their respective
+tribes lost their lives,<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> but the mothers, to facilitate their own
+escape, put to death most of the female infants at the breast. Upon this
+followed, apparently in consequence of the great privations of their
+wandering life, through hard work and
+<!--147.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span>want
+of nutritious food, a serious
+sterility among the female sex. Whereas, according to Muret, out of 487
+women only 20 (or 1 in 24) are barren on the average, the proportion among
+the Maori amounts to 155 in every 444, or 1 in 2.86.</p>
+
+<p>The want of nutritious and wholesome food, their diet consisting mainly of
+salt-fish, roots, and fruits, the absence of clothing, or any care for the
+body, their wretched abodes, and exposure to the weather, all these causes
+must greatly contribute to the diminution of the race, as affecting the
+conditions of sound health of the present generation, and tending to
+produce those forms of disease, such as scrofula, pulmonia, phthisis, &amp;c.,
+by which the Maories and their offspring are at present decimated. Dr.
+Fenton also adduces the intermarriage of near relations among the New
+Zealanders as one prominent cause of their disease and physical
+degeneracy. These near alliances, however, at least among the lower
+classes, do not seem so frequent as Dr. Fenton imagined, as is apparent
+from the surprising diversity of physiognomy and colour of skin. The
+chiefs indeed of the tribes, who migrated from the north some four
+centuries since, may indeed have so frequently intermarried that they now
+constitute little other than a large family connection, but the populace
+have most undoubtedly made frequent alliances with the inhabitants of the
+adjoining island groups, as they are to this day accustomed to do with the
+whites, from which
+<!--148.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span>latter
+cross results the unhappy bastard race
+Paketa-Maori, which, like the quadroons of Louisiana and the mulattoes of
+Hayti, or the mestizoes of the Indian races of South America, despising
+the pure blacks and looked down upon by the whites, are the sworn foes of
+both.</p>
+
+<p>It seems to us too hazardous a speculation to go into minute
+investigations as to the decay of the Maori race, and the most suitable
+means of averting that disaster, at the very moment when their foreign
+conquerors, in order to strengthen their power, are actually engaged in a
+war of annihilation with the aborigines.<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> It is much more important,
+and will better repay our time, to enumerate the advantages which must
+accrue to European, especially German, immigrants into a country where the
+natives have played out their part.</p>
+
+<p>As already remarked, there are few countries beyond the limits of Europe
+which are so favoured as regards climate,
+<!--149.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span>fertility
+of soil, natural
+wealth, and geographical situation,<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> or hold out such excellent
+prospects of ultimate comfort and prosperity, as New Zealand. The mean
+temperature of the whole islands for the year is 56° Fahr., and is 5° less
+at the south, and in the north about 4° higher, so that, for example,
+Auckland possesses the same temperature as Florence, Rome, Marseilles, or
+Toulon.<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> Gales are frequent along the coast, and the damp south winds
+known as "bursters" are exceedingly disagreeable and oppressive, but they
+do not on the whole affect the health of the inhabitants. According to Dr.
+Thomson's observations, it would seem that of every 1000 soldiers in the
+various British military stations 8.25 die in New Zealand, 14 in Great
+Britain, 18 in Malta, 20 in Canada.<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47"
+class="fnanchor">[47]</a><!--150.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Of the superficial area of New Zealand, which, if we include Stewart's and
+Chatham Islands, may be estimated at 75,000,000 acres, one-third consists
+of forest and bush capable of being reclaimed for agricultural purposes,
+one-third of meadow, grass-pasture, and valley, well adapted for
+cultivation, and the remaining one-third of barren rock, or sandy desert,
+besides lakes and rivers.</p>
+
+<p>The amount of land, in various holdings, reclaimed and made fruitful
+throughout New Zealand for the year 1857 was 190,000 acres, of which
+121,648 were arable land, sown with esculents (chiefly wheat, oats,
+potatoes, and grass for fodder) and fruit. Of late years the annual
+increase of land reclaimed has been 40 per cent. It is calculated that
+each new arrival from Europe is equivalent to the cultivation of four
+acres of land, and the breeding of 30 cattle. The cost of clearing amounts
+in New Zealand to from £2 to £5 per acre.</p>
+
+<p>Hence it is that the Colonial Government are straining every nerve, by
+holding out certain material advantages and inducements, to attract
+land-purchasers and handicraftsmen to a country, which, inhabited at
+present by not more than 130,000 human beings, is quite capable of
+supporting 30,000,000. The "Auckland Waste Land Act," besides giving every
+necessary information as to the unreclaimed districts
+<!--151.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span>(where
+land is sold
+at ten shillings per acre), also contains certain arrangements, by virtue
+of which intending emigrants of the labouring classes, who shall come out
+at their own expense, receive some assistance to enable them to settle on
+certain proportions of the land which the Government presents to them by
+way of indemnification for the expenses of their voyage, in the proportion
+of 40 acres to each person above 40 years of age, and 20 acres to all
+between 5 and 17 years.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> The sole condition attached by the Government
+to this land-indemnity is that the emigrant bind himself to remain five
+years in the province; which period once elapsed, he may dispose of the
+land at his pleasure. In order to encourage persons accustomed to tuition
+to settle in Auckland, all persons who are fitted to instruct children in
+elementary knowledge and English grammar, on their having discharged such
+duties for five years to the satisfaction of Government, are entitled to a
+grant of 80 acres of land.</p>
+
+<p>The most important products and articles grown for export are, all sorts
+of cereals, wool, and ship-timber. A marked increase has taken place in
+potato cultivation, of which in 1857 there were exported 4430 tons, value
+£23,328, and in 1858, 6116 tons, value £33,056. Of building timber of all
+sorts there were exported in 1857 £12,205, and in 1859 £34,376 in
+value.<!--152.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span></p>
+
+<p>One of the most valuable trees of the New Zealand forests is the Kauri
+pine (<i>Dammara Australis</i>). This elegant tree, 80 to 120 feet in height,
+furnishes the English ship-building yards with a large number annually of
+rounded logs, 74 to 84 feet in length, of better quality as well as more
+lasting than those of the Norwegian or American pines.<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> The Kauri or
+yellow pine also produces the kind of rosin so well known as Dammara
+rosin, of which this valuable tree produces such quantities, that in those
+districts where the Kauri tree has long since yielded to the axe of
+civilization, it has been found in immense masses on the soil, in a
+high-dried state. The Kauri rosin of commerce is not therefore procured,
+as with us, by making an incision in the tree, but is actually dug out of
+the earth, into which to the despair of the farmer it has often percolated
+for several feet, rendering the soil barren. During our excursions we came
+repeatedly upon whole tracts of rosin-fields, which were covered several
+feet thick with this substance. The Dammara pine only grows on the
+northernmost island, and chiefly in the northern parts.</p>
+
+<p>In Auckland we saw several pieces of Kauri rosin weighing 100 lbs. In
+1857, 2521 tons, worth £35,250, of this substance were exported, chiefly
+for its valuable properties as a varnish, and for "fixing" certain colours
+used in the calico manufacture. It has also of late been extensively used
+in the manufacture of
+candles.<!--153.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The cultivation of the Harakeke, or indigenous flax (<i>Phormium tenax</i>),
+might be made to conduce greatly to the wealth of the country, if some
+mechanical process could be invented which should without too much expense
+liberate the fibres from their hard envelope, which is the only obstacle
+in the way of its competing successfully with Russian flax. Impressed with
+the importance of developing the cultivation of <i>Phormium tenax</i>, the
+Colonial Government has offered a reward of £1500 for the invention of
+such a machine as shall bark the native flax, and prepare it for and make
+it saleable in the European market. At present no more than 50 or 60 cwt.
+of the flax, worth about £800, is exported from Auckland. The New Zealand
+flax surpasses almost every known plant in the strength and toughness of
+its fibres, its ratio as compared with the fibres of European plants of
+the same species standing as high as 27:7. For Great Britain the
+cultivation of this flax is not alone of great interest in an economic
+point of view, but is even politically of importance, as the amount of
+flax annually imported from Russia for her industrial energies averages
+£3,000,000.</p>
+
+<p>Sheep-farming has of late years made an enormous advance in New Zealand,
+the export for 1857 being 2,648,716 lbs., value £176,581, that for 1859,
+5,096,751 lbs., value £339,779, averaging 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> per lb. The list of
+articles suitable for export must continually increase with immigration,
+and the consequent spread of population through the interior.</p>
+
+<p>The entire commerce of New Zealand, both import and
+<!--154.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span>export,
+is at present
+about £2,000,000, the value of imports having risen from £597,827 in 1853
+to £1,551,030 in 1859, while the exports, which in the former year were
+only £331,282, had risen in 1859 to £551,484. The last-mentioned year
+employed 836 ships, of which 438, representing 136,580 tons and 7594 of
+crew, were engaged in the import, and 398 of 120,392 tons and 6483 of
+crew, were employed in the export trade. The net revenue of the Government
+for the same period was £459,648.</p>
+
+<p>The majority of the colonists are emigrants from Great Britain, only a
+small fraction coming from the continent.<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> A large Irish population
+lives in the neighbourhood of Auckland, while the Scotch cling together
+about Taranaki and the southern parts of the island. The European
+population was 52,155 in 1857, and 73,343 in 1859, the proportion of sexes
+in the latter year being 42,452 males, and 30,891 females.</p>
+
+<p>While most of the naturalists of the <i>Novara</i> staff went on the invitation
+of Government to examine the coal-beds lately discovered in Drury
+district, others made frequent excursions
+<!--155.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span>in
+the environs of Auckland,
+three of which deserve special mention.</p>
+
+<p>The first was to the picturesque Judges and Oraki Bays, the latter formed
+by the ruins of a crater. Here for the first time we beheld what is called
+the New Zealand Christmas tree, <i>Metrosideros Tormentosa</i>, which at the
+festive season comes forth pranked in all its gay blossoms, and is
+extensively used in decorating churches and dwelling-houses. Its large
+deep-red, umbellate blossoms are visible from afar gleaming among the
+green vegetation along the coast. The natives call this tree the
+Pohútu-Káwua; it is most extensively found on the slopes along the coast.
+The wild pepper, Kawa-kawa (<i>Piper excelsum</i>), is very common in the
+country round Auckland, but is not brewed into an intoxicating drink like
+the <i>Piper methysticum</i> of the Southern Ocean. The natives indeed are
+exceedingly temperate, and, unlike other half-civilized races, are very
+little addicted to drink; this however may be partly due to the wise
+precautions of the Government, which under a heavy pecuniary penalty
+forbids all tavern-keepers throughout the province from selling the Maori
+any drink except beer. Two species of grass eminently characteristic of
+the country, which often overrun vast tracts of land, and are used by the
+natives for thatching their huts, are the Toi-toi (<i>Lepidosperma elatior</i>)
+and the Kekaho (<i>Arundo Australis</i>). There are also the Puka-puka, or
+paper-seed (<i>Brachyglottis repanda</i>),
+<!--156.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span>an
+object which, where it is found,
+imparts a peculiar aspect to the landscape, like the silver poplars on the
+flanks of Table Mountain at the Cape. The name of the plant is derived
+from the under side of the leaves being as white as paper.</p>
+
+<p>We also during this excursion saw great quantities of Raorao or Aruhe
+(<i>Pteris esculenta</i>), and were told that the roots (<i>roi</i>) of this fern,
+baked and ground, were highly prized by the Maories as a specific against
+sea-sickness. No native makes a sea-voyage, at least to any distance,
+without carrying with him a piece of this root, using it when baked as an
+antidote against that most depressing of maladies, from which even
+primitive races are not exempt. The efficacy of this remedy is however
+rather reputed than actual, the experience of Europeans, who have availed
+themselves of its supposed virtues, tending to show that it is absolutely
+worthless.</p>
+
+<p>While at Oraki Bay we also visited the Maori village of Oraki. Here we
+found some 80 natives, men, women, and children, who had encamped on a
+hill outside the village. They were clothed partly in European style,
+partly in clothes made of native flax. The diversity of feature was most
+remarkable, as was also the great difference in the hair of the head. Some
+had thin black, others crisp, hair; many had it of a dark brown colour,
+while yet others had regular fox-coloured locks. The elder men had
+<!--157.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span>their
+faces and hands beautifully tattooed; the women on the lip only, and the
+younger generation were not tattooed at all. After the customary
+salutation of "Tenákoe, Tenákoe" (which in fact means literally nothing
+more than "Here you are," or "I recognize you"), they were little
+communicative, and showed little disposition to enter into closer
+conversation with the foreigners, although some of our companions spoke
+their language fluently. As our instructions were to ship on board the
+<i>Novara</i> any handsomely tattooed natives who should of their own free will
+wish to enter our marine, we let slip no opportunity, and accordingly
+endeavoured to induce some of the natives we now saw to ship with us.
+However, they could not be persuaded to make a cruise with us to see other
+lands and nations, as they could not comprehend what motive Austrian
+voyagers could have in inviting the natives of such a distant quarter of
+the globe to join them on such favourable terms. Their chief hesitation
+arose in the idea which they, the offspring of cannibals, firmly believed,
+that we wished to take some of their companions with us instead of fresh
+provisions, with the ultimate intent, so soon as we ran out of victuals,
+to put them to death, and banquet on Maori flesh! Thereupon we showed them
+some Caffres who had been 15 months on board, and were perfectly well
+treated. "Who knows," replied one of the most cautious of the Maori, "very
+possibly the Caffres have only been spared
+<!--158.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span>because
+the necessary moment
+has not yet come!" We returned to Oraki, our efforts vain to induce any
+Maori volunteer to make a cruise.</p>
+
+<p>A not less interesting excursion was made to the Kauri forest in
+Titarangi, among the Manukau hills, to which we were conveyed in a couple
+of dog-carts. It was an exquisitely beautiful sunny morning. The air was
+so invigorating yet so mild that we immediately felt how well Sir Humphrey
+Davy's celebrated remark about Nice, "mere existence here is luxury," may
+also be applied to Auckland. After a drive of three hours through charming
+fields and meadows, we entered upon the forest at a spot where an Irishman
+named Smith has erected a block-house and a saw-mill, which seemed to do
+an excellent business. The whole appearance of the farm and its residents
+made a most favourable impression. Old Smith accompanied us in person to
+the forest, which consisted principally of the lofty, slender,
+broad-leaved Kauri pine. These have much more the look of chestnut trees
+than fir. The whole forest displayed a luxuriance and beauty of vegetation
+such as we had not anticipated in these latitudes. Creepers, parasites,
+and tree-ferns, gave it quite a tropical character. There were a charm and
+a voluptuousness about this green garb of nature, as displayed in New
+Zealand, such as the virgin forests of even the Nicobars or Java could
+hardly surpass in grace and majesty.</p>
+
+<p>The slender trunks of the Kauri pine, the Rimu (<i>Dacrydium</i>
+<!--159.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span><i>Cupressinum</i>),
+and the Kali Katea (<i>Podocarpus excelsa</i>), are here
+sliced into planks and boards, and so transported to the port. 100 cubic
+feet are worth about 15<i>s.</i>, and 100 cubic feet of the beautiful Rimu
+wood, which is much used for furniture, fetches about 30<i>s.</i> A saw-mill
+labourer is paid from £7 to £8 per month, besides rations.</p>
+
+<p>On our return, thoroughly fagged out and overheated with three hours of
+climbing and rambling, to the hospitable residence of our worthy Irish
+friend, we found an elegant carpet spread on the floor of the room, and
+everything clean and neat, to welcome the unexpected guests. His entire
+family was waiting to receive us, and after a comfortable meal we took our
+leave, doubly impressed with the glories of New Zealand forest scenery,
+and agreeably surprised to find in such close proximity with
+half-reclaimed nature such a peaceful picture of contentment, and such
+sterling results of well-directed human industry.</p>
+
+<p>While our eyes were still dazzled with the beauties of the New Zealand
+forests of the Manukau range, a visit to St. John's College gave us an
+excellent and cheering glimpse of the admirable zeal displayed by various
+philanthropists to impart instruction in the great truths of Christianity
+to the coloured race of this and the adjacent groups of islands, and to
+educate missionaries. St. John's College has been set on foot with this
+praiseworthy object in view by the Church of England Missionary Society.
+Of the forty lads who attended it while we were there, the majority came
+from Loyalty
+<!--160.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span>Islands,
+the Solomon Group, and New Caledonia. Many only
+remained at the institute during the warm summer months, and for health's
+sake returned before winter set in to their own milder climate. Some had
+thus returned to school for the fourth time. The management of this humane
+undertaking is entrusted to Mr. Patterson, a gentleman of remarkable
+ability and perseverance, who speaks with fluency most of the Polynesian
+languages, and annually faces much privation and danger during his visit,
+in a schooner provided by the Missionary Society, to the various islands
+of the Southern Ocean, where he communicates with the natives, urging them
+to give their children the benefits of a certain amount of education. The
+course of instruction consists of reading, writing, arithmetic, and
+religion. It is unfortunate that no provision is made for their
+instruction in mechanical employments, as such knowledge would go far to
+make their heathen kindred appreciate the advantages of Christian
+civilization. The pupils seem to be warmly attached to Mr. Patterson, and
+regard him with the child-like reverence paid to a father. The results are
+surprising, and demonstrate what splendid germs of capacity for education
+lie slumbering in even the rudest primitive people, if only care be taken
+to awake them sufficiently early, and foster them judiciously.</p>
+
+<p>As in all English colonies, there is much intellectual activity in
+Auckland. Several English journals,<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> some
+<!--161.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span>really
+well written and
+digested,&mdash;such, for instance, as "<i>The Southern Cross</i>," "<i>The New
+Zealander</i>," &amp;c.,&mdash;not only discuss the most important political events,
+but also endeavour to enlarge the views of their readers upon all
+questions of political economy and commercial and industrial progress.<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a></p>
+
+<p>A few months before our arrival a paragraph appeared in several English
+and German journals, one of which accidentally fell into our hands at
+Shanghai, to the effect that "in April, 1858, considerable excitement had
+been created in England by intelligence of a peculiar species of silk-worm
+having been discovered growing wild in New Zealand in immense quantities."
+The London correspondent added that the worm inhabits a cocoon which is of
+a dull brown externally, under which however is a particularly fine
+quality of silk, with which some Glasgow houses had made
+<!--162.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span>experiments
+that
+induced them to value it much more highly than the qualities hitherto
+procured in Europe. Owing to the great alteration in the prospects of the
+silk trade, generally held out by the march of events in China, we deemed
+it advisable to inquire minutely as to the existence of a worm, which, as
+reported, not merely enjoyed advantages of climate similar to those of
+several parts of the Austrian domains, but seemed to require but little
+attention, living, as was said, "wild" in the "bush." After protracted
+investigation, however, it turned out that the silk procured in New
+Zealand was furnished by the ordinary mulberry-fed silk-worm, and that the
+extraordinary delicacy attained in the fabrics made from it at Glasgow was
+only due to its very superior quality.</p>
+
+<p>The little expedition to the coal-beds of Drury already mentioned was
+accompanied by results so valuable, that considerable excitement arose
+among the settlers of the district, and a society was formed for the
+exploration of this mineral wealth. The excursion, however, was not
+confined to visiting the coal-fields, but was intended to give the
+naturalists of the <i>Novara</i> an opportunity of seeing part of the interior
+of New Zealand, by traversing the forest, 9 to 15 miles wide, between
+Auckland and the river Waikato, and thus visit the lovely shores of that
+river and the native villages of the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>The expedition was under the conduct of Capt. Drummond Hay, aide-de-camp
+to the Governor, and thoroughly
+<!--163.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span>acquainted
+with the country, and Mr.
+Heaphy, chief engineer of the province; Mr. Smallfield, editor-in-chief of
+the <i>New Zealander</i>, accompanied it as historiographer, while the
+Government invitation was extended to several of the scientific
+inhabitants of Auckland, among others the Rev. Mr. Purchas, and a
+recently-arrived German named Haast. The following is an extract from a
+journal, kept by one of the party from the <i>Novara</i>, of all the most
+interesting episodes of this excursion:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"On 28th December we set out in five waggons, and advanced among extinct
+craters and volcanic cones, on which in former times <i>Páhs</i> or intrenched
+villages had been erected by the natives, as is plain from the succession
+of terraces of three or four feet high, rising in regular order, and cut
+into the side of the hill. The villas and farms on either side of the
+road, or at the foot of the hills, buried in their splendid
+flower-gardens, formed a charming contrast with the ancient lava currents,
+stretching in every direction and over-grown with tree-ferns and dense
+coppice. Now and then horses were rolling about upon the velvet-like
+meadows, or herds of cattle and flocks of sheep were passed feeding and
+ruminating, and bearing ample testimony to the advanced stage of material
+progress so quickly attained by one of the youngest of English colonies.</p>
+
+<p>"Already we had found banners waving from the houses of Otahuha, a little
+village closely adjoining a very interesting extinct volcanic peak with a
+crater, and during a brief halt
+<!--164.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span>we
+made here, crowds of well-dressed
+inhabitants came flocking in to welcome the German guests of the
+Government, who were to develope the natural wealth of the country. From
+Otahuha the road lay across the plains of Papa Kura (red levels) to
+Tamaki. It is a wide paved road well ballasted, the bridges solidly built,
+everything, in short, betokening the fostering care of an enlightened
+Government, making it a point of duty to open up as speedily as possible
+convenient means of communication between the capital and the interior.
+The farms and country-houses were not so numerous in this section, though
+the rolling country seemed of excellent quality.</p>
+
+<p>"At last, about 1 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, we reached Drury, a rather large settlement 29
+miles from Auckland, where we were most cordially welcomed. Young's Hotel,
+which had been engaged for the Expedition, was gaily decorated with
+flowers, rare forest plants, and ferns, while from the gable floated side
+by side the British and Austrian standards.</p>
+
+<p>"Drury is situate in a fertile rolling plain, the country is everywhere
+fenced in, corn-fields and meadows give variety to the landscape, and the
+well-to-do, fresh-looking countenances of the settlers, the groups of
+rosy-cheeked children, and the herds of splendid cattle, amply attest the
+salubrity as well as fertility of the neighbourhood. The party now split
+into two. Our geologist, with several companions, went forward about a
+mile and half from Drury into the forest,
+<!--165.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span>there
+to commence his
+investigations at a spot where a coal-bed 12 feet thick had been laid
+bare. The rest of the naturalists strolled about, engaged in botanical and
+zoological researches among the soft, beautiful woodland scenery of the
+almost <i>soul-enchaining</i> primeval forest.</p>
+
+<p>"A couple of days were passed in such little excursions in the environs of
+Drury, in the course of which a trip was made in a Wakka or New Zealand
+canoe to the Tahike springs, near a Maori village of the same name. Our
+craft consisted of a single hollowed-out trunk of a kahika tree
+(<i>Podocarpus excelsa</i>), about 25 feet in length by 2&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> in breadth. For
+such a boat a native pays about £5, and it lasts from 20 to 30 years,
+whereas a canoe of red Totara (<i>Podocarpus Totara</i>) costs when complete
+about £30, but lasts much longer. Canoes are frequently pointed out
+prepared from these giants of the forest, 70 feet in length and from five
+to six in breadth, which were used in old times as war-canoes
+(Wakka-wakka), and could accommodate 100 warriors. Ours was covered at
+either end with fresh-gathered ferns, and was provided with four paddles
+tapering to a point, one of which was used by one of the Maories who
+accompanied us, while we applied ourselves to learning the management of
+this novel mode of propulsion by seizing on the rest, and by imitating his
+motions speedily mastered its difficulties. Unfortunately, owing to the
+distance, we could not reach the village itself, and, after a variety of
+curious adventures with
+<!--166.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span>the
+natives, found ourselves compelled to return
+when about half-way, in order to husband our strength for the exertions of
+the ensuing day.</p>
+
+<p>"By dawn the noise in the hotel drove away all further thought of sleep,
+and presently came flocking in from every quarter the horses, both saddle
+and pack, which had been engaged for the expedition. The morning broke in
+uncommon splendour, and the whole landscape lay bathed in a rose-coloured
+flush, whose exquisite tints recalled the immortal beauties of Claude
+Lorraine. The winding road that leads over the intervening hills begins at
+this point to be impracticable for wheeled vehicles, although it is
+possible to advance a few miles farther in country cars. For upwards of an
+hour we rode along through beautiful rolling pasture land, for the most
+part neatly fenced, and covered with herds of noble cattle. Now and then
+we came upon a stately mansion, buried in flowers and foliage, whose
+appearance sufficiently attested that the proprietor had long since left
+behind the struggles of the early days, when the hardy settler inhabited a
+wretched log-hut (whari), a "clearing" cut with incredible labour amid an
+almost impenetrable forest, the soil of which he had to prepare for the
+reception of corn-seed.</p>
+
+<p>"At last we reached the forest, which extended from where we were to the
+banks of the Waikato. The deeper we penetrated into it, the closer and
+more majestic grew the trees, and the denser and more impervious was the
+underwood. Gigantic trees, 150 feet in length of stem, were entwined,
+<!--167.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span>trunk,
+limbs, and summits, with flexible lianæ and other parasitical
+creepers, while birds of the strangest descriptions were flitting hither
+and thither among the trees, alarmed by the tramp of our horses, which
+echoed strangely loud through the silent depths of the forest. The most
+frequently visible of these feathered denizens of the forest is the Tui
+(<i>Prostemadera novæ Zelandiæ</i>), called 'the parson' by Captain Cook, in
+consequence of its having two white feathers in the lower part of its neck
+resembling bands. In colour and shape it is very like the kingfisher, and
+its melodious notes present great variety. In addition to the Tui, the
+forest is frequented by the Kakariki (<i>Platycercus N. Z.</i>), a small green
+parrot, which, stealing softly through the mysterious greenwood shade,
+emits its singular shrill shriek. We also fell in with a solitary specimen
+of the New Zealand cuckoo (<i>Endynamys Taïtensis</i>), called by the natives
+Koekoea, which was eagerly bagged by the zoologists.</p>
+
+<p>"After riding half an hour into the forest we came to Rama-Rama, a
+settlement founded about three months previously by a rich English
+colonist. About 70 acres English were already reclaimed, and in some parts
+of this patch of land, so lately arrested from the wilderness, peas,
+turnips, beans, potatoes, and other kitchen vegetables were already
+peering above the surface. Two small huts, constructed of the stem of the
+tree-fern, and thatched with reeds, had been extemporized as kitchen and
+sleeping apartment for the occupier of the soil, a highly-educated,
+well-informed, gentlemanly
+<!--168.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span>man,
+named Martin, and his labourers, while on
+an eminence at a little distance preparations were being made to erect a
+handsome dwelling-house of wood, whence this skilful shepherd-prince will
+be able to overlook his flocks and herds, and delight his eyes with the
+prospect of his rapidly multiplying horned stock.</p>
+
+<p>"The road now became narrower and more difficult, the horses too began to
+find their footing less secure, and it was only by great vigilance that we
+contrived to ride over the marshy soil, thickly covered with massive roots
+of forest giants. Enormous trunks of trees that had fallen across the path
+had to be scrambled over, and the baggage removed from the pack-horses and
+carried forward on men's shoulders. Some of the horses, inured to similar
+expeditions, clambered nimbly over these obstacles, while for others, more
+restive or less practised, bridges had to be constructed, which are formed
+by laying two trunks of trees parallel with each other across the chasm or
+brook, upon which fern or reeds are placed transversely, and the whole
+tied together with twigs of liana, so as to afford the animals a firm
+footing. Occasionally this frail apparatus would break through, when the
+poor horses would disappear below, whence they were only extricated with
+considerable trouble.</p>
+
+<p>"Towards evening the forest began to get less dense, and we entered upon
+an undulating table-land, covered with ferns. Some columns of smoke,
+curling upwards at the foot of a hill on the further side, indicated that
+we were approaching
+<!--169.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span>a
+Maori village. In front of us lay the valley
+through which flows the Mangatawhiri, which falls into the Waikato a
+little lower down. The course of the latter was traceable by a range of
+hills whose elegant outlines bounded the horizon. We experienced a most
+friendly reception from the natives of this village, and were lodged in
+the newest <i>whari</i> or New Zealand hut. This is constructed in the shape of
+a quadrangle with elliptic sides, about 20 feet in length by 14 feet in
+breadth, and consists of stakes of palm driven in close to each other, and
+tied together. The roof, which is 15 feet high in the centre, gradually
+sloping to about 8 feet at the side walls, is of thin slips of wood, and
+is covered over by a dense layer of native flax, so ingeniously woven that
+it is impervious to water, which accordingly runs off. The roof is for the
+most part supported simply by an upright pole in the midst, but
+occasionally several of these are used, so as to impart greater strength
+to the roof. The side walls are usually covered with large mats made of
+woven rushes. In the middle of the two longer side walls are two doors
+placed exactly opposite each other, between which a species of corridor is
+made, which divides the hut into two apartments as it were. In the event
+of bad weather, a small whari close at hand serves as a kitchen, the Maori
+usually following all culinary avocations in the open air in front of his
+hut.</p>
+
+<p>"The village consists of some 15 huts scattered at random, among which
+some of the inhabitants of both sexes, clothed in European attire, were
+sitting or lounging upon the ground,
+<!--170.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span>or
+crouching upon their hams.
+Around, in sympathetic glee and full security, sprawled a squad of pigs
+and children, some naked, others half-clothed. Most of the adults
+stretched out their hands in the most friendly manner. Here we had again
+occasion to remark the extraordinary diversity of physical appearance in
+various individuals, no two of these Maories being like each other in
+complexion, hair, or figure. In front of one of the huts a native oven was
+standing uncovered, the mid-day meal being just over; after the earth and
+other matters had been removed there appeared, each lying on a
+cool-looking cabbage leaf, some splendid potatoes and eels from the river.
+The Hangi-Maori, or Maori oven, is nothing but a hole some three feet long
+by one and a half deep excavated in the earth. In this a strong fire is
+made of dried timber, and when fully alight stones are placed over the
+flames, and kept there till they are in a state of incandescence. As soon
+as the wood has been consumed the ashes are carefully removed, and a
+little wet flax thrown upon the hot stones, above which again is placed a
+layer of fresh cabbage leaves. These form as it were a bed for the food to
+be cooked, be it meat, vegetables, fish, or fruit. The viands are then
+covered with another course of leaves, two mats of rushes being placed on
+the top, after which the earth excavated is heaped over the pile and
+pressed firmly down, so as to prevent the escape of the steam thus
+generated. If there are no cabbage leaves handy, a substitute is made of
+the leaves of the Tuakura (<i>Dicksonia Squamosa</i>), a species of
+<!--171.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span>fern
+which
+grows in great luxuriance among the moist spots. These leaves impart to
+the meat a peculiar and agreeable flavour, whereas other plants are apt to
+alter the ordinary taste of the food.</p>
+
+<p>"The women and girls were busily engaged during a few minutes in weaving
+little baskets of rushes, in which the potatoes were served up garnished
+with eel. A plateful was handed to each of our party, which we were
+courteously pressed to eat. In every Maori household there is always a
+sufficient quantity cooked to admit of any casual traveller or a neighbour
+partaking with the family; for the Maori possesses in perfection the
+savage virtue of hospitality, as we frequently experienced.</p>
+
+<p>"The master of the hut in which we passed the night had suddenly
+disappeared, and was busily engaged, as we witnessed through the open
+door, in arranging his hair, which he combed carefully, after which he
+anointed it with eel-fat, which he also plentifully smeared over his face,
+neck, and arms. This curious toilette completed, he wrapped a clean mat
+round him, and presented himself in full fig, to bid us all due welcome.
+The mode of salutation among the New Zealanders is unique. The party
+saluting draws his head rapidly backwards, and winks a couple of times
+with half-closed eye and laughing face!</p>
+
+<p>"Our bivouac suddenly received an unexpected accession of new arrivals.
+From the mountain ridge which we had just passed six horsemen were seen
+descending at full gallop
+<!--172.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span>and
+making for the village; they proved to be
+young Maories, mounted on handsome horses, who, having been apprized by a
+relative, whom we had met in the forest, of the arrival of <i>Pakehas</i>
+(white men), had come hither partly out of curiosity, partly to do us
+honour and show us hospitality. They all wore European clothes, rode in
+good English saddles, and bestrode powerful horses, which they seemed to
+manage with much grace. There are numerous Maories who have from 50 to 60
+head of horses, and whole herds of cattle, besides several thousands of
+pounds lying in bank.</p>
+
+<p>"In the course of a stroll through the village we not only observed fields
+planted with the customary rotations of wheat, oats, maize, potatoes,
+cabbage, and so forth, but on the banks of the river came upon a new mill,
+constructed on the English system, almost ready for work, which had been
+erected by an Englishman at a cost of £500, to be repaid by the tribe. The
+erection of this grinding machinery is the more indicative of the
+speculative turn of mind of the Maori of the present day, that they use
+none of the flour for their own primitive household, but manufacture it
+solely for the purpose of selling it advantageously at Auckland market.</p>
+
+<p>"Towards noon we again entered our canoes on our return, and descended the
+Mangatawhiri, the navigable channel of which is so narrow that even our
+narrow craft could with difficulty make its way. Gradually the hills began
+to slope backwards, and the river to grow wider, till it expanded on
+either side into a swampy morass covered with reeds and lofty
+<!--173.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span>elegant
+water-plants, while at a short distance away we could descry magnificent
+trees springing from the high-lying but fertile soil. It was a most
+delightful day. Throughout our entire excursion the thermometer ranged
+from 71° 6 Fahr. to 77° Fahr., so that, our strength not exhausted by
+oppressive heat, and our attention not distracted by the hum or the sting
+of insects, we were free to indulge those mingled feelings of which the
+variety and magnificence of the landscape were so well calculated to
+elicit the manifestation. Presently the river became once more very
+narrow, the hills again closed in, covered with a thick belt of forest,
+which extended down to the water's edge, occasionally forming a canopy of
+indescribable grace above our boat, as she glided noiselessly below. At
+last the Mangatawhiri, which hitherto had pursued a westerly direction,
+made a bend to the southward, and debouched into the Waikato. The
+impression made upon each of our party by the scenery at this point was so
+overpowering, that all, as though smitten by one common impulse, broke
+into expressions of delight. Its course lying between mountains of
+magnificent outline and thickly wooded, the majestic stream presented many
+points of resemblance to the Rhine and Danube, to which it was little if
+at all inferior in point of width. A holy calm brooded over its clear
+brown ripples, only broken by the flight of birds from time to time, which
+in those undisturbed solitudes, far from the murderous weapons of man,
+passed their existence in happy security. That we might enjoy in all their
+plenitude the exquisite charm of the
+<!--174.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span>forest
+and its luxuriant vegetation,
+we coasted along now on this side, now on that, as though we could never
+weary of the mingled grandeur and beauty of this magic scene. Still
+further to enhance the magnificence of nature in her present mood, a
+tremendous thunder-storm broke over us in the course of the afternoon,
+when the forked lightning played like arrows of fire above our heads, and
+the thunder rolled in deafening peals, which were taken up again and again
+by hundreds of mountain echoes.</p>
+
+<p>"In the evening the sky cleared, and we reached the Maori village of
+Tuakan, where we were made welcome, and the best hut in the place assigned
+us. The evening was one of peculiar interest, it being that of Sylvester's
+day, or the eve of the New Year of 1859, which will scarcely soon again be
+spent by Austrians at the antipodes. Our entire party camped upon the
+floor of the hut, two torches, stuck into the mouth of a couple of empty
+bottles, shed an uncertain light, while an iron kettle served as
+punch-bowl, in which a "brew," something resembling "Punch," was, by dint
+of the joint experience of the English and German members of the
+excursion, compounded out of the spirits we had brought with us. Ere long
+the chorus went round, and we had German songs, alternating with English,
+Irish, and Scotch melodies, and even melancholy New Zealand love-songs,
+sung by some of the Maories present.</p>
+
+<p>"As the evening, and with it the dying year, wore on, some little
+difficulty, natural enough under the circumstances, arose,
+<!--175.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span>how
+to
+ascertain the precise moment of its departure, as most of those present
+had left their watches behind, as a something more than superfluous
+article in the course of a forest excursion, and the few which had been
+brought differed so much, that it was impossible to depend upon them for
+the correct moment at which the old year sank to his rest, and the new
+began his course of alternate hopes and alarms, joys and griefs.</p>
+
+<p>"Suddenly Captain Drummond Hay rose, and opening the door, which, as in
+most Maori huts, faced the south, exclaimed: 'Well, we have neither church
+clock nor night watch to tell us the exact moment when the year changes,
+but a bountiful Providence has suspended for us in yonder firmament
+another and an unerring sentinel of night and time:&mdash;the constellation of
+the Southern Cross! During how many sleepless nights, among the forest or
+fern-covered plains of New Zealand, have I lain gazing at that
+never-failing time-piece of the Almighty's own handiwork! See, the Cross
+begins to bend to the west! It must now be midnight. A happy new year to
+one and all!' Once more the glasses clinked against each other, and hand
+locked in hand, after which the shades of night were left to gather round
+our wearied party, who sunk into sound repose, relieved probably by many a
+cheering vision of distant friends.</p>
+
+<p>"The following morning, 1st January, 1859, we all rose early, refreshed
+for the day's work, and found the entire population of the village
+collected around us. There were also a
+<!--176.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span>couple
+of English carpenters who
+joined the crowd, and welcomed us to the interior. They were employed in
+constructing for the natives, at an expense of £400, a wooden chapel, as
+the Maories attach great importance to having a place of worship, where
+those resident on the spot, or any occasional European stranger, may unite
+with them in spending the sabbath in a becoming manner. The majority of
+the New Zealanders are Christians, and belong almost exclusively to the
+High Church of England. Service is performed partly by missionaries, who
+traverse the country up and down, partly by itinerant spiritual teachers,
+regularly engaged for the purpose, the latter of whom have occasionally to
+struggle against severe privations and obstacles of various kinds. Many
+natives educated by the missionaries travel through the country preaching
+and praying, and by their exemplary conduct must greatly influence their
+fellow-countrymen. In almost every hut in the village we found a Bible, or
+a hymn-book and prayer-book, in the Maori tongue.</p>
+
+<p>"Notwithstanding their undoubted capacity, the natives will not apply
+themselves to any handicraft pursuits, which indeed they attach so little
+value to that they regard the shoemaker and the tailor, for example, as
+inferior to them. On the other hand, the merchant or the seaman stands in
+high esteem; and the warrior holds the chief place in their estimation,
+while they themselves consider them not inferior to the Europeans, with
+respect to courage, firmness, and love of war.</p>
+
+<p>"About noon we set out on our return. The route chalked
+<!--177.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span>out
+for us, by
+the only road which exists between Tuakan and Drury, was constructed
+partly by the land-holders along its course, partly by the surveyors, only
+intended for cattle, and to facilitate survey. We found it in such a rude
+state that it was only with much trouble we got our horses over the trees
+which lay felled across the road, or could induce them to put a foot on
+the bridges of loose planks by which the water-courses were crossed. In
+every direction the path was over-grown with roots, between deep pools,
+into which one stepped over the knees, while the boughs of the trees
+overhead rendered any attempt at progress a matter of considerable
+difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>"We could now form a pretty correct estimate of 'life in the interior of
+New Zealand,' and of the obstacles the settler has to encounter in a
+climate, the vegetation of which grows in rank luxuriance almost rivalling
+that of the tropics. As, however, the Colonial Government attaches the
+utmost importance to this matter, and expends large sums in laying out
+good roads throughout the interior, many of the impediments to traffic at
+present existing will be obviated in a few years. About 9 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> we were
+once more in Drury, and on the following morning, 2nd January, 1859, the
+little party returned to Auckland, when the geologist of the Expedition
+made a comprehensive report to Government on the coal-fields of the Drury
+district, which had first been noticed by the Rev. Mr. Purchas of
+Onehunga, who employed his leisure in geological
+studies."<!--178.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span></p>
+
+<p>According to the geological researches of Dr. Hochstetter, it would appear
+that the province of Auckland abounds in good coal that would repay
+working, especially a brown coal occurring in the tertiary period, which
+greatly resembles that of Bohemia and Styria. The plains of Papakura and
+Drury on the eastern shore of Manukau Harbour are part of a rolling
+country, and are but little above the level of the sea. S.E. and S. they
+are bounded by a thickly-wooded range of hills from 1000 to 1500 feet in
+height, running in a direction from S.W. to N.E., or from the Waikato to
+the Wairoa; it is only in the vicinity of Drury that a portion of this
+chain trends nearly N.E., rising with a gentle slope from the level land
+below. At various points on these acclivities strata of coal have been
+discovered partly by the action of water, partly by human labour, the
+extent of which, owing to the impenetrable forest vegetation and the
+consequent lack of natural indications, can only be ascertained by boring.</p>
+
+<p>The coal is of the best quality of that kind of brown coal generally
+called cannel coal, and is occasionally met with in immense seams. The
+average thickness of the seam is about six feet. The Drury and Hunua
+coal-fields seem indeed to be but a part of a far more extensive tertiary
+formation, which occurs pretty universally throughout the province of
+Auckland. The obvious practical value and commercial importance of this
+New Zealand coal can only however be definitely proved, when the various
+manufacturing processes in
+<!--179.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span>which
+it is used have been fairly set a-going.
+It might at all events be worth the experiment to erect in the vicinity of
+the coal mines some manufactories of porcelain, as the utmost variety of
+clay has been met with in the course of the different borings, all
+admirably suitable for every branch of that manufacture.</p>
+
+<p>In like manner the brown coal might be made available for the supply of
+gas, besides being called into requisition for fuel for numerous
+industrial pursuits. On the other hand, it is not suitable for ocean steam
+navigation, as its volume would prevent its being shipped in sufficient
+quantities, so long as black coal could be procured, even at a somewhat
+higher price.</p>
+
+<p>The proposals of the geologist of our Expedition as to the best mode of
+exploring the wealth of the Drury coal district, were so well received by
+the Government, and so eagerly caught up by the proprietors of the various
+plots of land&mdash;the benefits likely to result to the colony from such an
+undertaking seemed so important, that there was not merely a rush to open
+up the coal district, but a formal request was made to the Commander of
+our Expedition that he would permit Dr. Hochstetter to remain behind to
+aid the work, and prosecute further researches in this little-explored
+island. This proposition, originated by a number of respectable and
+influential persons, at last found official expression in an official
+letter despatched by the Governor of the colony to our Commodore, in which
+the farther geological exploration of the
+<!--180.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span>island
+by Dr. Hochstetter was
+asked as a particular favour.<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> As the request was a high compliment,
+and it was impossible the scientific objects of the Expedition could be
+more obviously fulfilled than by the thorough geological examination of a
+country never hitherto subjected to a similar scrutiny, Commodore Von
+Wüllerstorf consented on condition that all the collections made, and the
+observations and literary matter published, by Dr. Hochstetter during his
+residence on the island, should without exception form part of the results
+of the <i>Novara</i> Expedition, and that all expenses incurred during his stay
+on the island, or on his passage back to Europe, should be defrayed by the
+Government of New Zealand.<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a></p>
+
+<p>All these proposals were at once approved, and Dr. Hochstetter was
+moreover handsomely remunerated, and every facility given him to devote
+himself to the extension of science while contributing to the welfare of
+the country at large. On the 8th January, our estimable travelling
+companion disembarked from the <i>Novara</i>, intending to remain in Auckland
+provisionally, and to make preparations for his arduous task, which was to
+be inaugurated by a geological survey of Auckland Province, after which,
+in the course of some weeks, he hoped to proceed into the interior.
+Several officials, as also a photographer, a draughtsman, and 15 Maories,
+were selected to accompany Dr. Hochstetter into the interior, each of whom
+strove to contribute to the utmost
+<!--181.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span>of
+their power to the success of an
+undertaking fraught with such important results.</p>
+
+<p>During our stay in Auckland we had the misfortune to lose our boatswain,
+who died suddenly of serous apoplexy, and was interred in the Catholic
+burial-ground. The deceased was so universally beloved, that a collection
+was started on board, which resulted in a sufficient sum being raised to
+admit of a suitable tombstone being erected to the memory of this worthy
+man.</p>
+
+<p>In no part visited by the <i>Novara</i> was she received by the Catholic clergy
+with such lively demonstrations of delight as at Auckland. On new year's
+day a special high mass was celebrated in the Catholic cathedral in
+presence of all the seamen of the vessel, followed by a sermon from Dr.
+Pompallier, the venerable R.C. bishop of the province. The gray-headed
+prince of the Church, accompanied by his Vicar-General, and several Maori
+chiefs, afterwards came off to the frigate, when he paid a visit to the
+Commodore. As the Catholic mission at Auckland is anything but well
+endowed, our chaplain, by orders of the Commodore and in the name of
+H.I.R.M. the Emperor, presented various altar furniture and vessels for
+the celebration of mass, which were accepted with many expressions of
+gratitude and delight.</p>
+
+<p>For several days a continuance of heavy gales from the northward prevented
+the departure of the frigate, which gave our friends in Auckland a further
+opportunity of renewing their warm-hearted hospitality. During this delay,
+we also
+<!--182.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span>shipped
+as part of the crew two Maories, who at the last moment
+declared their wish to accompany us. The official correspondence on this
+subject between the Colonial Government and the Commodore is especially
+interesting as illustrating the watchful care taken by the New Zealand
+authorities in protecting the interests of the Maories. The most
+favourable terms were sought to be secured for them, and a special clause
+was inserted providing for their return to their native country free of
+expense, should they express a wish to that effect at the conclusion of
+our voyage. At first four Maories and a half-blood had resolved on making
+the voyage, but when the time for embarkation came, only two adhered to
+their determination, Wiremu Toe-toe Tumohe, and Te Hemara Rerehau Paraone,
+both of Ngatiapakura, and belonging to the powerful Waikato tribe.
+Toe-toe, himself a chief of two small tribes of Ngatiapakura and
+Ngatiwakohike, about 32 years old when he shipped with us, had been
+baptized at 15 by the English missionaries, by whom he had been instructed
+in reading and writing. He had also been trained to agricultural pursuits,
+and at 20 he married the <i>mestiza</i> daughter of an Englishman and Maori
+woman, who had presented him with a son. In his 26th year he entered the
+service of the Colonial Government as post messenger, in which capacity he
+proved himself so useful that he had been for two years postmaster of his
+district, which position he still filled when the <i>Novara</i> arrived.
+Toe-toe was the first to display his willingness to assist Government in
+constructing
+<!--183.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span>roads,
+and by his influence and example not alone induced
+several chiefs to abstain from interposing obstacles in the way of that
+much-needed improvement, but even prevailed upon several of his relatives
+to take a part in their construction. His determination to accompany the
+<i>Novara</i> was solely the result of a long-cherished desire to see foreign
+lands and races. Hemara Rerehau Paraone was fired with a similar wish. He
+was the son of a wealthy relative of Toe-toe, and had been baptized at an
+early age. From 12 to 18 he had frequented a school founded by the English
+missionaries, where he learned to write his mother-tongue, and a little
+English, arithmetic, geography, and history, besides the accomplishments
+of sowing, corn-growing, grinding flour, and baking bread.<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55"
+class="fnanchor">[55]</a><!--184.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At last, on 8th January, the frigate left the harbour of Auckland. Just as
+the sails were let fall, some boats made their appearance crowded with
+friends, who presented us with a last bouquet, ere we went on our way.
+There was also a boat with several natives, and the Vicar-General, who
+wished to saddle us with some wonderfully tattooed Catholic Maories,
+anxious apparently that Protestant Maories should not alone be shipped.
+The zealous father brought with him a letter from the Catholic Bishop,
+Pompallier, and was so intent upon his mission that despite the somewhat
+rapid
+<!--185.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span>rate
+at which the frigate was now cleaving the water, and the
+difficulty which his long black cloak interposed to his movements, he
+would not let go his hold, but held on to the Jacob's ladder in order to
+get personal speech with the Commodore. It was, however, obviously
+impossible to grant his request without further delaying the departure of
+the frigate, and the poor Vicar-general, a warm-hearted Irishman, had to
+make his way down the slippery ladder again into his little boat, and
+return with his <i>protégés</i> to Auckland, his praiseworthy object
+unaccomplished.</p>
+
+<p>As, favoured by fair winds, we sped gaily along to the next object of our
+travels, the Island of Tahiti, our thoughts and wishes were repeatedly
+reverting to New Zealand, where one of our number had remained behind, to
+undertake the solution of so difficult but important a problem. The
+information obtained by our colleague during his eight months' residence
+only came to hand long after the frigate had been safely laid up in
+ordinary in Trieste harbour. However, in order to show more fully the
+activity displayed in surveying this little-explored island, we avail
+ourselves of the following condensed narrative of his labours, drawn up by
+Dr. Hochstetter himself.</p>
+
+<p>"My first field of employment was the province of Auckland. The ample
+assistance placed at my disposal by J. Williamson, Esq., the very
+deserving superintendent of Auckland, enabled me within the short space of
+five months to travel over the greater part of this province, which
+constitutes
+<!--186.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span>nearly
+the whole of the northern island, while pursuing my
+researches for the most part upon a definite plan.</p>
+
+<p>"During the first two months, January and February, Auckland was my
+head-quarters, as the season was not yet suitable for pedestrian
+excursions in the interior. The heat during the summer months is so great,
+and the annoyance caused by the mosquitoes, who during those months
+frequent the forest in millions, is so intolerable, that travelling
+becomes all but impracticable. Neither of these drawbacks exists to any
+great degree in the vicinity of Auckland. The fresh sea-breezes, which
+continually blow across the isthmus, temper the summer heats, and the
+environs being cleared of forest are but little infested by those
+blood-thirsty insects.</p>
+
+<p>"I accordingly applied myself next to those works which during the stay of
+the <i>Novara</i> had been set on foot by myself among the brown-coal-fields
+near the capital, and adjoining the remarkable volcanic formations of
+Auckland, with the view of getting some definite result, in order that I
+might provide for myself a detailed geological sketch of the volcanic
+district, since even the portion in close vicinity to the capital,
+notwithstanding the previous labours of my friend Mr. Heaphy, was, so far
+as regarded geological formation, as much a <i>terra incognita</i> as the
+interior itself.</p>
+
+<p>"The basis of such a geological chart of the Auckland district was
+conveniently supplied by some topographical plottings on the scale of one
+inch to the mile, with which I was provided by the Surveyor-general's
+office. Unfortunately,
+<!--187.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span>these
+sketches almost entirely omitted any notice
+of the description of land surveyed, and, in fact, comprised merely the
+outline of the coast and the net-work of the rivers, so that it became
+necessary to examine for myself the physical features of the country.</p>
+
+<p>"On a closer examination, the variety of geological formation proved to be
+much greater than I had at all anticipated. What chiefly took up my time
+was the investigation of the remarkable extinct volcanic caves of the
+Isthmus of Auckland, which, so far as regards the great number comprised
+within a small space, and the peculiarities of their cave and crater
+configuration as modifying the lava streams, must be pronounced unique of
+their kind. Within a circuit of only ten miles from Auckland I had to mark
+down 61 different points of eruption! An excursion southwards to Manukau
+Harbour, and the mouth of the Waikato westward, led to our finding
+important petrifactions at the south source of the Waikato, and along the
+west coast to the discovery of belemnites and fossil ferns in excellent
+preservation. Thus for the first time the secondary strata of New Zealand
+were bared to view. Further excursions to the Drury and Papakina
+districts, as also to the Wairoa River, were rewarded by the confirmation
+of the extension thither of the brown coal formation, after which I
+extended my investigation northwards to the Waitakeri, and the peninsula
+of Wangaparoa.</p>
+
+<p>"My map, so far as completed, and sent to the Colonial Government for
+their use and to be copied, embraced by the
+<!--188.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span>end
+of February the whole of
+the environs of Auckland for a distance of 20 miles. It brought to light a
+district abounding in most important and remarkable geological features,
+besides a stratum of sedimentary deposit of all the geological periods
+(primary, secondary, tertiary, and diluvial), including numerous volcanic
+phenomena. My collections however embraced a quantity of splendid
+petrifactions, and an immense number of interesting rocks, while the
+botanical and zoological collections were greatly added to through the
+kind assistance of well-wishers of all degrees of the community.</p>
+
+<p>"The question now to be solved was, 'Should I make the northern or the
+southern portion of the province the scenes of further exploration?'
+Properly to examine both was impossible within the short period I could
+remain. I did not hesitate to decide in favour of the southern district,
+and that for a variety of reasons. The southern portion of the province is
+inhabited almost exclusively by natives. Only missionaries, tourists, and
+a few Government officials had hitherto traversed these interesting
+regions. The north of the island, on the other hand, is much better known.
+Numbers of European settlers inhabit the shores of the numerous bays of
+the northern Peninsula. The colonists themselves, by word of mouth, or
+written information, could furnish me with all the information I required
+respecting the natural history of those regions, not to speak of the
+specimens that were constantly being sent me.</p>
+
+<p>"Dieffenbach had already visited every point of importance
+<!--189.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span>in
+the north,
+which he had very fully described in all other essentials, if not
+geologically. The renowned American geologist, Dana, when attached to the
+great expedition despatched by the United States to the Southern
+Ocean,<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> landed at the Bay of Islands, the most important harbour in the
+north, and had given full geological details of that neighbourhood.
+Moreover, my friends, the Rev. A. G. Purchas and C. Heaphy, Esq., during
+my stay in the country, visited several districts in the north, whence
+they brought me collections and specimens of every kind, so that I was by
+no means unacquainted with the north. On the other hand, the broad
+interior of the southern part of the province seemed to me to be almost
+entirely unexplored. Since Dieffenbach's remarkable voyage in 1840, no
+naturalist had visited the remarkable volcanic peaks of the interior, the
+beautiful inland lakes, the boiling springs, the Solfataras and Fumaroles.
+The geological information respecting these conveyed by Dieffenbach's
+narrative of travel, seemed to me very meagre, while topographically the
+interior was a blank. Accordingly, a visit to it seemed to promise the
+most important results.</p>
+
+<p>"Towards the end of February all necessary preparations had been made;
+Capt. Drummond Hay, well known as one of the best Maori scholars, was
+commissioned by Government to lay out my route and act as interpreter. The
+Government,
+<!--190.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span>however,
+forestalled my utmost wish by furnishing me with a
+photographist, as well as an assistant to aid me in meteorological
+observations, and generally to make himself useful in collecting and
+sketching. The latter was a young German, M. Koch, who proved himself a
+most invaluable ally, while M. Hamel took charge of the photography. There
+were also an attendant, a cook, and fifteen natives, to transport baggage.</p>
+
+<p>"I was likewise accompanied by my friend Mr. Haast, who had but recently
+come to New Zealand, sent out by some mercantile firm in London to explore
+the country for colonizing purposes. On the 6th March I set out with my
+numerous company, intending to proceed first from Auckland to Mangatawhiri
+on the Waikato, the chief river of New Zealand that flows from the
+interior. Crossing the Waikato in a native canoe, and afterwards its
+tributary the Waipa, I directed my steps westward from the Mission Station
+on the last-named river in the direction of Whaingarva, Aotea, and Kawhia,
+on the west coast. From Kawhia I struck landwards towards the upper course
+of the Waipa, as far as the Mokan district. Thence, after crossing
+frequent mountain-chains thickly wooded, I reached the source of the
+Wanganui in the Tuhua district, and on 14th April arrived at the majestic
+Lake Taupo, surrounded on every side by the most magnificent volcanic
+caves. Here I was at the very heart of the country, at the foot of the
+still smoking volcano of Tongariro, and its extinct neighbour Ruapahu,
+9200 feet high, and covered with perpetual snow. At the
+<!--191.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span>southern
+extremity of the lake is a mission-house, where I received a most
+hospitable welcome, while my Maories received at the hands of Te Heukeu,
+the great Maori chief, a most cordial reception, in conformity with the
+excellent customs of the country. After I had laid out the chart of the
+lake, and examined the springs along its banks, I followed up the Waikato
+by its outlet from the lake, till I reached the very singular chain of
+boiling springs, Solfatare, salt-springs and Fumaroles, which extend in a
+N.E. direction between the active crater of Tongariro and the still active
+volcano of Whakari or White Island on the east coast. On a longer stay,
+the country adjoining the sea along the prolongation of this line
+furnishes the site at Lakes Rotorua, Rotoiti, and Rotomahana (or Hot
+lake), for the <i>Ngawhas</i> and Puias, i. e. boiling springs and geysers with
+siliceous sintu-deposits, as in Iceland, which there display their
+greatest activity. I look upon this locality as presenting the most
+remarkable and extensive chain of hot-springs in the world, Iceland itself
+not excepted.</p>
+
+<p>"By the first week in May we gained the east coast at Maketu, whence we
+kept along the coast as far as Tauranga harbour, and thence once more
+turned our faces towards the interior at the Wai Ho valley, or valley of
+the New Zealand Thames, and thus once more reached the Waikato at
+Maungatautari. I now wandered through the fertile plains of the central
+Waikato basin, to Rangiawhia, the central point of the Maori settlements,
+paid a visit to the Maori
+<!--192.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span>king,
+Potatáu te Wherowhero, at his residence,
+Ngaruawahia, at the confluence of the Waikato and Waipah, and so by the
+end of May reached Auckland from the Waikato, by way of Mangatawhiri.</p>
+
+<p>"The results of this expedition, of almost three months' duration, were
+most satisfactory to myself. The weather had been singularly favourable,
+so that I found no insurmountable obstacles, although our route led
+through districts difficult of approach, owing to the frequent recurrence
+of flood, swamp, and almost impervious primeval forest. As my travels were
+undertaken about the period of the New Zealand harvest-time, both of the
+potato and corn crops, there was no lack of provisions. At the various
+missionary stations scattered throughout this region we received the most
+heartfelt hospitality, and even the native chiefs did not fail to receive
+into their tents, and welcome in right hearty fashion, the Te Ratu
+Hokiteta, as I was named in the Maori tongue, with all his numerous train.
+My Maories had proved themselves so willing and obliging, as well as
+cheerful, over the work, and my friends Haast, Hay, Hamel, and Koch, had
+so zealously co-operated with me, that the results achieved were quite
+beyond my most sanguine expectations. I now had complete geographical,
+geological, botanical, and zoological materials in my hands, nor was there
+any lack even of ethnographical specimens.</p>
+
+<p>"My chief object had been to obtain a correct notion of the geography and
+geology of the country. In order to be
+<!--193.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span>in
+a position to make geological
+deductions, I had at the same time to get up the topography, for all that
+was set down in the maps of the interior had not been taken from regular
+hydrographic data, but were mere jottings, which had been laid down from
+the hasty and necessarily imperfect sketches which travelling
+missionaries, public officers, and other casual travellers had brought
+with them. The imperfect charts which the Colonial Government had supplied
+me with, to guide me in pushing to the eastward, only gave the inhabited
+points along the coast, and even a few miles distant from Auckland were so
+much waste paper. To remedy this I had recourse, from the very
+commencement, to a system of triangulation, by means of an Azimuth
+compass, based upon the nautical survey of the coast made by Capt. Drury,
+which I prosecuted, with the invaluable assistance of Capt. Drummond Hay,
+from the west coast to the east. The natives, who, in their profound
+distrust of the government land speculations, always threw every possible
+obstacle in the way of the land-surveyors and provincial engineers, so
+soon as they made their appearance, theodolite in hand, on any land not
+yet purchased, never once disturbed us. They knew I was a stranger, who
+was only going to stay a few months in the country, and accordingly made
+it a point of honour that I should carry home with me as high an opinion
+as possible of the country. At every remarkable point the chiefs stationed
+guides, and accompanied me to the summits of the mountains, whence I made
+my observations, and with great readiness
+<!--194.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span>furnished
+me with the name of
+every hill and stream visible, as well as the valleys and lakes within
+sight, and explained in their own way the geography of the district. On my
+side I collected carefully all the information I could glean respecting
+the natives, and in this fashion I believe I have rescued from oblivion a
+number of beautiful and highly-characteristic names. The configuration of
+the soil I always sketched off on the spot, and thus brought away from my
+tour materials sufficient to enable me to prepare during my stay in
+Auckland a topographical chart of the southern part of the island on a
+large scale, reserving for more mature consideration, at a future day, the
+preparation of a carefully revised edition of this provisional map.</p>
+
+<p>"The barometrical observations made during this tour were reduced by
+comparison with those of the Royal Engineer's Observatory at Auckland, the
+tables used in which were obligingly put at my disposal by Colonel Mould,
+R.E.</p>
+
+<p>"There are also to be noticed an immense number of drawings and
+photographs, taken during the Expedition, as also some very valuable
+landscape sketches, made for me by Mr. Heaphy.</p>
+
+<p>"There still remained, however, a most interesting object for examination
+in the vicinity of Auckland, namely, the Cape Colville peninsula on the
+eastern shores of Hauraki Bay. The discovery of gold in Coromandel Harbour
+on this coast, had some years before created great excitement. I devoted a
+few days of fine weather in the month of June to
+<!--195.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span>visiting
+these
+gold-fields; a projected visit to the copper-mines of Great Barrier
+Island, and the Island of Kawau, had unfortunately to be abandoned, owing
+to bad weather.</p>
+
+<p>"With this, the period of my stay at Auckland was drawing to a close. At
+the request of the members of the Mechanics' Institute, I delivered on the
+24th June, shortly before my departure, a lecture in the hall of the
+society, upon the geological capabilities of the province, in which I
+threw together the chief results of my investigations, and illustrated
+them by means of roughly-executed charts, plans, sketches, and
+photographs. As I had neither time nor complete material for a more
+extended report, it was on this lecture that Government relied for an
+account of my various operations. The arrangement and careful packing of
+the collections, and the drawing the maps, delayed my departure for some
+weeks, and after my days of labour followed others, still more impossible
+to forget, of agreeable society and festive meetings, ere I could tear
+myself away from the inhabitants of Auckland. Thousands of mementos of New
+Zealand were thrust into my hands. My collections comprised treasures of
+all sorts, such as must for ever engrave on my memory the forests and
+mountains of New Zealand. But I had yet again to thank the good people of
+Auckland for a last souvenir of their kindly feeling and generosity to
+myself. On the 24th July I was invited to a banquet in the name of the
+province, at which I was presented, in terms far too
+<!--196.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span>flattering,
+with an
+address,<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> accompanied by an elegant and valuable testimonial.</p>
+
+<p>"Unfortunately, owing to want of time, I could not respond to the cordial
+invitation extended to me to make a lengthened stay, accompanied by
+further surveys of Wellington and New Plymouth (Province of Taranaki), and
+Ahuhiri (Province of Hawke's Bay). So, too, I was compelled gratefully to
+decline a kind invitation from the Governor to accompany him on an
+expedition to the Southern Island, on board H.M.'s frigate <i>Iris</i>,
+preferring to accept a previous invitation from the Superintendent of the
+Province of Nelson, as a visit to Middle Island seemed of special
+importance, however short my stay. It not alone satisfied me of the
+justice of the name assigned to Nelson, of being the 'Garden of New
+Zealand,' but also kept me fully occupied in examining its variety of
+mineral treasures, such as copper, gold, coal, &amp;c., which have made the
+province the chief mineral and metalliferous district of New Zealand. And
+how was it possible for me to come back to Europe without having seen the
+splendid chain of the Southern Alps, and their summits crowned with
+perpetual snow?</p>
+
+<p>"Accordingly, on 28th July, I embarked on board the steamer <i>Lord Ashley</i>,
+bound for Cook's Straits. The voyage gave me the opportunity, as the
+vessel called at Nelson and Wellington both (anchoring at the latter),
+before entering
+<!--197.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span>Blind
+Bay, of paying a flying visit to both those
+localities. Thus, on 30th of July I had a splendid view of the lofty
+Taranaki mountain (Mount Egmont), 8270 feet high, and was enabled to
+study, among the sugar-loaf rocks of the Taranaki coast, the peculiarities
+of the trachytic lava of this the most regular in shape of the volcanic
+peaks of New Zealand. After a stormy passage through Cook's Straits, we
+landed on 1st August at Wellington, and reached Nelson on the 3rd.</p>
+
+<p>"I was received in the most cordial manner by the denizens of Nelson, who,
+while the <i>Novara</i> lay at anchor at Auckland, had extended to the members
+of the Expedition a most cordial invitation.</p>
+
+<p>"The provincial Government, under the advice of the excellent
+superintendent, J. P. Robinson, Esq., had already issued the requisite
+instructions to enable me to make the utmost possible use of the time at
+my disposal for geological survey, and had chartered for me the steamer
+<i>Tasmanian Maid</i>, so as to enable me to visit with all possible dispatch
+the most important formations on the shores of Blind and Golden Bays.</p>
+
+<p>"The geological field which is opened up on the Middle Island, was
+entirely new as compared with the Northern Island. In the neighbourhood of
+Nelson, the Southern Alps send off outliers, in the shape of
+mountain-chains, 5000 and 6000 feet high, covered in winter with deep
+snow, as far as Cook's Straits. The western chains are composed of primary
+<!--198.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span>crystalline
+rocks, granite, gneiss, micaceous and hornblend slate,
+quartz, and clay slate, whereas sedimentary sandstone, chalk, and almost
+vertical stratifications, constitute the chief formations observable in
+the eastern chain. Between these older formations, however, among the
+valleys and depressions, occur later stratifications, including brown coal
+or peat.</p>
+
+<p>"A succession of splendid weather was gladly hailed as an evidence of the
+renowned climate of Nelson, and my very first excursions opened to me such
+interesting subjects of inquiry, that I was fain to decide on prolonging
+till September the month's visit I had originally determined on
+restricting myself to. I was thus enabled to examine more minutely the
+various gold and coal-fields near Nelson, as also the copper-mines on the
+Dun Mountains, and at all events to represent on a chart the geological
+features of the northern part of the province.</p>
+
+<p>"The results of the investigations into the mineral wealth of this
+province were on the whole eminently favourable. I could not indeed
+confirm the sanguine anticipations of some mining speculators, of the
+inexhaustible, though as yet unrevealed, treasures of copper in the Dun
+Mountains, although, adjoining the rather meagre copper-bearing strata,
+there were instances of abundance of chromate of iron, which promised a
+considerable return. Above all, however, there still remained to be
+visited the gold-fields of the Aorere and Tetakaka valleys at Golden Bay,
+the quantity already extracted from which, as well as its purity,
+satisfied me that capital might secure
+<!--199.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span>a
+splendid return here by a more
+extended and systematic mode of working, and that the discovery of this,
+the first of the New Zealand gold-fields, is but the commencement of a
+series of such along the range of hills which traverses the Middle Island;
+discoveries which, though perhaps not on so extensive a scale as those of
+Australia and California, must nevertheless tend to raise higher and
+higher the rank of New Zealand among the gold-producing countries of the
+earth. Lastly, it was found that in the province of Nelson, side by side
+with the ordinary strata in which the brown coal occurs in North Island,
+were beds of coal of a very superior quality. The excellent but
+unfortunately very limited coal-fields of Pakawau give ground for
+anticipating that in other localities it may very probably be possible to
+discover larger and more easily-worked beds, and my friend Haast has, in
+fact, since my visit discovered such on Buller-and-Grey river, on the
+Western shore of the province of Nelson.</p>
+
+<p>"During my stay in Nelson my collections waxed in amount to an unusual
+degree. In vain had I attempted while in North Island to discover remains
+of the gigantic extinct bird of New Zealand, or the bones of the
+<i>Dinornis</i> and <i>Palapteryx</i>, Moa of the natives. These researches met with
+far greater success in Middle Island. The chalk valleys of the Aorere
+valley furnished us with splendid specimens of these singular and rare
+remains of birds. Not merely were individual bones daily discovered,
+through the indefatigable exertions of my friend Haast, but from time to
+time entire
+<!--200.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span>skeletons
+more or less perfect. Besides these, I was
+presented with a very valuable complete skeleton of the <i>Palapteryx
+ingens</i> (Owen), from the Nelson Museum, so that the collection of
+remains<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> of the Moa, which I brought back with me to Vienna, is
+scarcely, if at all, inferior to the valuable series of relics of an
+extinct race of birds which at present adorns the British Museum.</p>
+
+<p>"I must express my thankful sense of the kindness with which my friends
+Dr. Monro, Capt. Rough Travers, Messrs. Adams, Curtis, and many others,
+contributed minerals, plants, and zoological specimens to the enrichment
+of my collections of natural history. I am also deeply indebted to Messrs.
+Campbell and Burnett for several exquisite landscape sketches, and the
+Provincial Government for a variety of interesting photographic pictures
+of the environs of Nelson.</p>
+
+<p>"It was with regret I tore myself from a region where so much remained to
+discover, and so much hitherto unexamined to explore. In the higher and
+more remote regions of the Southern Alps, never yet trodden by human foot,
+there was nothing left for me to do. From the shores of the Rotoito lake
+(Lake Arthur) I could see the southernmost point reached by me, where the
+lofty pinnacles of the southern range, crowned with perpetual snow, rose
+grandly before me. I could but picture to myself the majesty and sublimity
+of those hills, which my friend and travelling companion, J.
+<!--201.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span>Haast,
+succeeded in ascending in 1860-61, after indescribable difficulties and
+hardships, which redounded to the credit of German 'pluck' and
+perseverance, as the results did honour to German science.</p>
+
+<p>"My time had now been stretched to its utmost limit, and I had to prepare
+for my return to Europe. In a lecture upon the geology of the province,
+which I delivered at Nelson on 29th September, I presented in a succinct
+form the results of my observations. An extract from this lecture,
+accompanied by a copy of my geological map, I presented to the Provincial
+Government of Nelson and the Colonial Government of Auckland.</p>
+
+<p>"I cannot conclude without recording the numerous instances of
+consideration and unexpected kindness which I received at the hands of the
+inhabitants of Nelson, and especially for their flattering and gratifying
+appreciation of my labours, which at the close of the lecture already
+mentioned took the form of an address,<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> accompanied by an elegant and
+appropriate souvenir, consisting of a beautifully-finished cabinet,
+composed of the various coloured woods of New Zealand.</p>
+
+<p>"On 2nd October, 1859, I embarked for Sydney, on board the steamer <i>Prince
+Alfred</i>. After a short sojourn in the capital of New South Wales, I went
+on to Melbourne, whence I visited the most important of the gold-fields of
+the colony
+<!--202.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span>of
+Victoria, and by the middle of November returned <i>viâ</i>
+Mauritius and the Red Sea to Europe."</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<p>Such is the account given by our geologist of his proceedings while the
+<i>Novara</i> was steering homewards. The voyage to the Society Islands
+Archipelago promised at first to be very speedy, but ere long was
+seriously delayed by strong contrary winds, and while, on the one hand, we
+could make but short tacks, we had on the other not merely to forego the
+pleasure of clear sunny weather, but had the miserable prospect of nothing
+but squalls and rain. Our additions to our natural history collections
+were likewise very scanty, and even our most important capture, a shark 10
+feet 4 inches in length, and weighing 174 lbs., was much more of a treat
+to the sailors than an acquisition to science.</p>
+
+<p>The only circumstance throughout the voyage which made a certain
+impression was the passage of the meridian of 180°, about 11 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, on the
+10th of January, so that we had now entered upon W. longitude again.
+Accordingly, there was no small astonishment among the sailors, when a day
+seemed suddenly to be dropped out of our reckoning, and orders were issued
+that Monday, 10th January, should be entered twice in all journals and
+reckonings, that is, should be entered for that and the following day
+also, so as to prevent our returning to Europe with the log one day ahead
+of the calendar. Of course a little explanation soon satisfied all
+landsmen of
+<!--203.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span>the
+necessity of the alteration, but their amazement reminds
+me of the dismay of earlier Catholic navigators, when they found they had
+been keeping irregular fast days. Thus, when the first circumnavigation of
+the globe was made by Magelhaen, who sailed in the <i>San Lucas de
+Barrameda</i> on 20th September, 1519, he found on his return, after a three
+years' cruise, to Santiago, one of the Cape De Verd Islands, that the
+Portuguese there were keeping Thursday, the 10th July, 1522, whereas his
+log marked Wednesday, the 9th, he having doubled the Horn and sailed from
+east to west. The idea of having lost a day of their lives disquieted the
+worthy and pious mariners far less than the fact that they had observed
+Lady-day erroneously, and had eaten meat on fast days! On their return to
+Spain they could not get credit for the lost day, which was set down to an
+error in reckoning, the meaning being that they had omitted the
+intercalary day in February, 1520. Peter Martyr spoke concerning this to
+the renowned Venetian ambassador, Contarini, who at once pointed out that
+a day must necessarily be lost in the course steered by the <i>Victoria</i>,
+while, on the other hand, a day would have been gained by sailing from W.
+to E. One consequence of this proof of the sphericity of the earth was,
+that it at once became obviously necessary to draw a line of demarcation
+between the Spanish and Portuguese settlements. Thus, too, Captain Steen
+Bille relates, that when he sailed from Tahiti he logged his departure as
+on Friday, 18th December, whereas on the adjacent island of Borra-Borra
+they were
+<!--204.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span>already
+reckoning it the 19th. The mode of reckoning at Tahiti
+corresponded with his own, but only, it would seem, in consequence of an
+alteration which had been made a few weeks previously. In short, the mode
+of reckoning time among the South Sea Archipelagoes depends solely upon
+whether they have been approached in the first instance from the west or
+the east by the navigator who has introduced among them the Christian
+Calendar. However, so long as the discrepancy is not too great, a
+conventional mode of computation is employed, and one general epoch is
+used for all groups of islands in or near the meridian of 180°. In any
+case, it is a matter of indifference to the brown natives of these island
+groups whether or not they correspond with Greenwich at a given hour of a
+given day.</p>
+
+<p>On 4th February the look-out man at the mast-head sung out "Land on the
+lee-bow!" This proved to be the small island of Tubuai, of the Rorutu
+Archipelago, the inhabitants of which at present seem to be likewise under
+the "careful" protection of France.</p>
+
+<p>At length, on 11th February, we came in sight of Tahiti and the outlying
+Island of Eimeo or Morea, after which we tacked towards the latter, which
+we approached so closely that we could quite plainly distinguish its
+singular serrated outline, its precipitous crags, and its crater-like
+depressions, as well as the thick, gloomy forests that clothe its secluded
+valleys. Many of these pinnacles and steep rocky declivities presented all
+the appearance of a series of colossal ruins of
+<!--205.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span>cities
+and palaces,
+protected by towers, battlements, and embrasures. About 4 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> we hove to
+off Papeete. The entrance into this harbour, surrounded by coral reefs
+which indeed form the haven, is exceedingly narrow, the fair way for the
+frigate not exceeding half a cable's length. As no pilot boat was visible,
+a blank shot was fired, and a certain signal hoisted, upon which a small
+boat pulled off with the long-looked for pilot. At 6 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> we cast anchor
+in 11 fathoms water, in clay ground. In the harbour were three whalers, a
+French transport, and the dispatch steamer <i>Milan</i>, which had left Sydney
+twelve days before us, had remained three days at New Caledonia, whence it
+had been 54 days on the voyage to Papeete, only making use of its steam in
+the most urgent cases. We ran up the flag of the French Protectorate at
+the main-mast-head, and saluted the city with the customary 21 guns, which
+were replied to by a field battery, which had to be brought down to the
+beach for the purpose. Much astonishment was expressed that we should have
+ventured to run the frigate through the narrow channel between Eimeo and
+Tahiti, which has a very bad repute, and is very rarely attempted by
+vessels of large size, but, as we ourselves experienced, is perfectly
+practicable with a favourable wind, and greatly shortens the approach to
+the harbour.</p>
+
+<p>With the consent of the Governor, who received us with much cordiality (no
+intelligence having as yet reached these waters of the diplomatic
+misunderstandings which at our
+<!--206.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span>antipodes
+were forming the prologue as it
+were of the war that broke out somewhat later), we were permitted to use
+the islet of Motu-Uta, lying in the harbour, for the purpose of carrying
+on, free from interruption, our astronomical, meteorological, and magnetic
+observations. A simple wooden hut which we found upon the island served
+for an observatory, while quantities of slender-stemmed cocoa-palms,
+waving their rustling green canopies overhead, invited us to welcome
+repose after the exhaustion of the day's labour. To this smiling islet,
+which rose in the midst of the bay like a basket of flowers, King Pomáre
+II. once retired, there to translate the Holy Scriptures into Tahitian.
+Here, too&mdash;probably in the very hut which now served us as an
+observatory&mdash;it was that the same sovereign, when old, spent whole days,
+and occasionally, according to tradition, indulged so freely in cognac
+that he was frequently heard, when in that state, to say to himself,
+"Pomáre, Pomáre! thy <i>puan</i> (pig) were now better fitted to reign than
+thou!"</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> We are indebted to C. W. Stafford, Esq., Under Secretary of
+State to the Colonial Government, for copies of the latest statistical
+documents, from which we learn <i>inter alia</i> that at the end of 1859 the
+population amounted to 129,392, the aborigines numbering 56,049, and the
+foreigners 73,343.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> According to the tradition handed down from the chief
+Te-he&#365;-he&#365;, their forefathers emigrated first from
+Hawaiki-Tawiti-Nui, to Hawaiki-Patata, where they sojourned some time, and
+thence went to Hawaiki-Ki-te-Maite&#365;, whence they came to New Zealand.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> According to Dr. Thomson ("The story of New Zealand past and
+present, savage and civilized." London. John Murray, 1859), who lived
+eleven years at Auckland prosecuting his duties as a surgeon in the army,
+the Maori came to New Zealand, passing by Rarotonga, from Sawaii, the
+largest of the Navigators' Islands, about the year 1419. This opinion,
+which is not devoid of probability, is not however incompatible with the
+Sandwich Islands being the original cradle of the New Zealanders, and
+Sawaii only a sort of intermediate station. (See United States Exploring
+Expedition 1838-42. Ethnography or Philology, vol. vii., by Horatio Hale,
+Philadelphia. Lea and Blanchard, 1846.&mdash;The Traditionary Migrations of the
+New Zealanders and the Maori Legends (<i>Die Wundersagen der Neu-Seeländer
+und der Maori Mythos</i>), by C. Schirren. Riga. N. Kymmel, 1856.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> The sick were formerly made to drink the fluid contained in
+the shells of fresh and salt-water <i>Conchyliæ</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> Of these the most important are:&mdash;"Polynesian Mythology, and
+ancient traditional History of the New Zealand Race, as furnished by their
+Priests and Chiefs. London, 1855." "Proverbial and Popular Sayings of the
+Ancestors of the New Zealand Race. Capetown, 1857."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> New Zealand: being a Narrative of Travels and Adventures
+during a Residence in that Country, between the years 1831 and 1837. By J.
+S. Polack, Esq., member of the Colonial Society of London. In two volumes.
+London, Rich. Bentley, 1838.&mdash;Travels in New Zealand, with contributions
+to the Geography, Geology, and Natural History of that Country. By Ernest
+Dieffenbach, M.D., late Naturalist to the New Zealand Company. 2 vols.
+London, J. Murray, 1843.&mdash;The Southern Districts of New Zealand; a Journal
+with passing Notices of the Customs of the Aborigines.&mdash;By Edward
+Shortland, M.A., London, Longman and Co. 1851.&mdash;A Dictionary of the New
+Zealand Language and a concise Grammar; to which is added a Collection of
+Colloquial Sentences. By W. Williams, D.C.L., Archdeacon of Waiapú.
+London, 1852.&mdash;The Ika-a-Mauí, or New Zealand and its Inhabitants. By R.
+Taylor. London, 1855.&mdash;A Leaf from the Natural History of New Zealand. By
+R. Taylor. Wellington, New Zealand, 1848.&mdash;New Zealand, the "Britain of
+the South." By Charles Hursthouse. London, E. Stanford, 1861. Of purely
+scientific works relating to botany, Dr. Hooker's "Flora of New Zealand"
+may be mentioned as the most comprehensive.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> Rona is a Maori maiden of whom a legend relates that the
+moon, irritated at her petulant disposition, carried her off to the upper
+regions.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> The dead is here spoken of as the evening star, which is
+supposed to rise in another world, where on its arrival it is welcomed
+with great rejoicings by the thousands that have preceded it.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> Main is the same as the Kumera, or sweet potato.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> Tikoro is the name of a race or tribe of the Hokianga
+district.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> A Maori, who maintained his neutrality, though he evidently
+views the victories of his countrymen with partial eyes, wrote us only a
+few months ago, "that in the combats which marked the first outbreak of
+hostilities, the English lost 2000 and the Maories only 1000!"</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Maori Mementos, being a series of Addresses presented by the
+Native People to H.E. Sir George Grey, Governor and High Commissioner of
+the Cape of Good Hope, and late Governor of New Zealand, with introductory
+remarks and explanatory notes; to which is added a small Collection of
+Laments, &amp;c., by Charles Olivier B. Davis, translator and interpreter to
+the General Government. Auckland, 1855. Also, "The New Zealand chief
+Kawiti, and other New Zealand warriors." Auckland, 1855.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> Potatáu (i. e. shriek by night) was so far back as 1833,
+during the bloody contests of the Waikatos against the Taranaki, a
+renowned warrior and cannibal, who at that period, according to undoubted
+authority, had with his own hand slain 200 of the foe, and had returned
+home from the battle-field satiated with human flesh, and rich in slaves.
+In the evening of his days he was an advocate of peace, and a friend of
+the whites. When he died, in 1860, his son, second of the name, was
+declared his successor.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> Observations on the State of the Aboriginal Inhabitants of
+New Zealand. By F. D. Fenton, the compiler of the statistical tables of
+the native population. Auckland, 1859. "The object of the publication by
+the Government of this paper is to draw attention to the state of the
+native population, especially to the decrease in numbers&mdash;<i>with a view to
+invite inquiry as to the cause, and suggestions of a remedy</i>."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> Of the enormous waste of human life caused by these wars
+some idea may be formed from the fact that at the storming and capture of
+the single <i>páh</i> of Matakitaki on the river Waipa 2000 warriors were
+killed; a larger amount of killed than that of the English army at
+Waterloo!</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> Of the bitter feelings excited by the Maori revolt among the
+inhabitants of Australia, an idea may be formed from the fact that Dr.
+Mackay, a well-known personage in political circles at Melbourne,
+seriously proposed to the Government of Victoria to send a volunteer
+expeditionary force to the seat of war, to assist in suppressing the
+rebels. The expenses, which Dr. Mackay estimated at £15,000 to £20,000,
+were to be repaid by sales of land in the conquered portion. Nay, this
+learned expounder of the "law" went so far as to pronounce the subjugation
+of these "savages" as imperatively necessary. The men were to be shipped
+off to Melbourne, to work as "<span class="smcapac">SLAVES</span>" for seven years; the females to be
+carried away and disposed of as wives for the Chinese and well-conducted
+white convicts! Dr. Cairns, Bishop of Melbourne, and other ministers of
+the gospel, adds this humane philanthropist, to be at liberty to use "<i>all
+fair means</i>" (!!!) for their conversion.&mdash;Compare <i>Sydney Morning Herald</i>,
+Saturday, July 21st, 1860.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> The most important American, Indian, and Australian markets
+may be reached by screw steamer from Auckland as follows:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">Miles</td><td align="right">Days</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New Caledonia</td><td align="center">1250</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Tahiti</td><td align="center">2380</td><td align="right">9</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Sandwich Islands</td><td align="center">4060</td><td align="right">14</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Valparaiso</td><td align="center">5420</td><td align="right">20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">San Francisco</td><td align="center">5950</td><td align="right">22</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Batavia</td><td align="center">4750</td><td align="right">17</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Manila</td><td align="center">4650</td><td align="right">17</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Singapore</td><td align="center">5050</td><td align="right">18</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Calcutta</td><td align="center">6820</td><td align="right">26</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Sydney</td><td align="center">1260</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Melbourne</td><td align="center">1420</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Adelaide</td><td align="center">1780</td><td align="right">7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Hobart Town</td><td align="center">1250</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Panama</td><td align="center">5320</td><td align="right">20</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>
+If the contemplated route <i>viâ</i> Panama be made available (with a coaling
+station at Gambier Islands), some 3500 miles or 14 days' sail would be
+saved, so that New Zealand would be reached in from 41 to 48 days, and
+Sydney and Melbourne in about 53 and 54 days respectively.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> According to Dr. Thomson's meteorological observations, the
+following are the averages for the town of Auckland (36° 50&#8242; S.),
+temperature 59&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub>° Fahr.; rain-fall 45&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> inches; days on which rain
+falls 160; barometer 29.95 inches.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> Not less interesting are the returns as to the number of
+soldiers attacked with consumption and who died of it at the various
+garrisons, which are as follows: Of 1000 soldiers there were
+</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">Attacked</td><td align="center">Died</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">In New Zealand</td><td align="center">60</td><td align="center">2.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">At Cape of Good Hope</td><td align="center">98</td><td align="center">3</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">In Australia</td><td align="center">133</td><td align="center">5.8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">At Malta</td><td align="center">120</td><td align="center">6</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">In Canada</td><td align="center">148</td><td align="center">6.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">In Great Britain</td><td align="center">148</td><td align="center">8</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> These grants, however, are only made to the person who
+actually defrays the expenses of the passage: thus they are not made to
+children, but to their parents; not to the servant, but to the master, who
+has paid the passage of the former.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> Besides the Kauri pine, there is abundance of Rimu or red
+pine, the Kahi-Katea or white pine, the Tanakaha or pitch pine, the Matan
+or black pine, as also the Puriri or New Zealand oak, all trees of great
+utility.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> At the period of the <i>Novara's</i> visit to Auckland the
+proportion of the various nationalities and religions were as follows:
+</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="center">Nations.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Irish</td><td align="right">11,881</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Scotch</td><td align="right">11,881</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">English</td><td align="right">35,644</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Germans and other nations</td><td align="right">594</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">60,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">Religions.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Catholics</td><td align="right">7,500</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Presbyterians</td><td align="right">7,500</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Wesleyans and Dissenters</td><td align="right">15,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Episcopalians</td><td align="right">30,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">60,000</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> The Government also publishes at its own expense a Maori
+paper weekly, Te Karere Maori, the Maori Messenger, the subscription to
+which is 5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per annum, and is intended to keep the coloured
+population informed of the most important political and social events, as
+also to tend to their civilization. We subjoin the contents of a single
+number now lying before us. "The laws of England.&mdash;Remarks upon
+ship-owners.&mdash;Official notices.&mdash;Letter from the chiefs of Chatham
+Island.&mdash;Farming, commercial, and maritime news.&mdash;Price current.&mdash;Speech
+of some brown chiefs at a meeting at Mongonui.&mdash;Letter from Bay of
+Islands.&mdash;Deaths.&mdash;The Auckland infirmary.&mdash;Government orders, &amp;c."
+Colonel Brown deserves special praise and acknowledgment for the
+publication of the laws of England in Maori, accompanied with the original
+text, although the fruits of this arduous but important labour may only
+gradually become apparent.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> It is especially worthy of remark, that wherever the
+Anglo-Saxon race colonize, the newspaper and the post-office follow the
+footsteps of the first settlers. After these come the church and the
+school-house. Newspaper perusal and dispatch of letters are among the
+first necessities of life to the Englishman. In the whole of New Zealand
+there were, in 1858, 64,357 copies of the various journals struck off, and
+482,856 letters received and dispatched. The province of Auckland alone
+figures for 239,367 papers and 133,121 letters.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> See Appendix III.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> See Appendix IV.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> These two Maories, who at first were very much depressed,
+soon got reconciled to their new sphere, and by their excellent conduct
+and obliging disposition, presently became great favourites among the
+crew. Only during our rough passage round the Horn, the tremendous storms
+and the unaccustomed severity of the cold caused them great uneasiness;
+they thought, as they themselves said, that "they must have died then;"
+and great were their longings for their native country. When at last they
+arrived safely and in excellent health at Trieste, they travelled to
+Vienna in company with one of the members of the Expedition, where,
+through the kindness of Privy Councillor von Auer, they entered into the
+Imperial-Royal Printing House, and were also instructed in the most
+important and interesting particulars of European civilization. Mr.
+Zimmerl, a member of that Institution, who had made the Maori idiom a
+special study, taught them English and German, as well as the manipulation
+of types and lithography, besides copper-plate engraving and drawing from
+nature. So intelligent and anxious for improvement did they prove
+themselves to be, that the Imperial Government were requested by the
+Directors of the State Printing Office to present the two Maories on their
+return to their native country with the necessary implements to enable
+them to avail themselves at home of the knowledge they acquired under such
+creditable circumstances. During their nine months' stay in Vienna, they
+were made acquainted with all the "lions" of the metropolis, and all the
+manners and customs of European civilized life. Of all the numerous sights
+that must have astonished their unaccustomed senses, there was none that
+seemed to have made a more powerful impression than the Railway, "the most
+splendid evidence of the powers of the foreigners, compared with which all
+others are unimportant, and which they earnestly trust will soon be
+introduced into New Zealand." The culmination of their visit to Vienna
+consisted in a visit they paid to their Majesties in the Imperial Palace,
+by whom they were received with the most gracious consideration, and
+orders issued that they should receive a handsome present, and have their
+return to their native country defrayed at the Government cost. On 26th
+May, 1860, the two New Zealanders quitted Vienna, and travelled through
+Germany to London, where they stayed several weeks, were presented to the
+Queen, and embarked at Southampton for Auckland direct. They arrived in
+safety at home, and have since then repeatedly written to their friends
+and associates in Vienna. The style of these epistles is in the highly
+figurative style peculiar to New Zealand. They abound in repetitions, and
+are not very inventive in rounding their sentences or giving their
+impressions, though they occasionally surprise the reader by the
+tenderness and poetic fervour of their thoughts. Thus, for example,
+Toe-toe writes once from Vienna to one of the Expedition resident at
+Trieste: "Thou art at Trieste, on the sea-shore! We climbed the Leopold
+Berg,&mdash;thence to descry the clouds which floated over Styria. Trieste we
+could not see, for our eyes were veiled by the tears which flowed from
+them!" The news we have received of Toe-toe since have been rather
+distressing. He issues from the press, presented to him at Vienna,
+stirring publications, comparing the Maories to Pharaoh (?) and exciting
+them to declare their independence!</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> Commanded by Captain Wilkes, recently so notorious by his
+conduct with reference to the English mail steamer <i>Trent</i>, in Nov. 1861.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> See Appendix V.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> Of this wonderful bird a cast was moulded in gypsum, and has
+been sent to the great International Exhibition, 1862.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> See
+Appendix.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--207.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span></p>
+
+<div style="position: absolute; left: 50%; margin-left: -336px;
+width: 672px; height: 744px; background-image: url('images/illu207.png');
+background-color: transparent;"><a name="illu207" id="illu207"></a>
+<span style="position: relative; top: -1em;">Native Fête to the Governor</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="icba" style="width: 672px; height: 484px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 100px; margin-right: -216px;"></div>
+<div class="icbr" style="height: 100px; margin-left: -264px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 50px; margin-right: -237px;"></div>
+<div class="icbr" style="height: 50px; margin-left: -284px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 100px; margin-right: -260px;"></div>
+
+<h2 style="clear: none;"><a name="XX" id="XX"></a>XX.</h2>
+
+<div class="c2" style="clear: none;">Tahiti.</div>
+
+<div class="c3" style="clear: none;"><span class="smcap">Duration of Stay From 11th To 28th January, 1859.</span></div>
+
+<div class="ChapDescr" style="clear: none;">
+State of the island at the close of last century.&mdash;The London
+Missionary Society and its emissaries.&mdash;Great mortality among
+the native population.&mdash;First arrival of Catholic Priests in
+Oceania.&mdash;French Protectorate and its consequences.&mdash;The
+Tahitian Parliament and Tahitian debaters.&mdash;William Howe.&mdash;Adam
+Kulczycki.&mdash;Scientific aims and achievements.&mdash;The Catholic
+mission.&mdash;<i>Pré Catalan</i> and native dances.&mdash;Prisoners of war
+from New Caledonia.&mdash;Point Venus.&mdash;Guava-fields.&mdash;The fort of
+Fautáua.&mdash;Lake Waiiria.&mdash;Popular <i>Fête</i> at Faáa.&mdash;Ball given by
+the Governor.&mdash;Queen Pomáre.&mdash;Geographical notes on Tahiti and
+Eimeo.&mdash;Climate.&mdash;Vegetation.&mdash;The Kawa root, and the
+intoxicating drink produced from it.&mdash;Great expense of the
+French Stations in Oceania.&mdash;Projects of reform.&mdash;Results of
+English and French colonization.&mdash;Two convicts.&mdash;Departure.&mdash;The
+Whaler <i>Emily Morgan</i>.&mdash;Attempt to fix the zero point of
+magnetic declination.&mdash;"Colique végétale."&mdash;A victim.&mdash;Pitcairn
+Island.&mdash;A fire-side tale of the tropical world.&mdash;An accident
+without ill results.&mdash;Humboldt's Current.&mdash;Arrival at
+Valparaiso.
+</div>
+
+<p>Of all the innumerable islands of the vast Pacific, there is none which at
+various periods has attracted the attention and aroused the interest of
+the civilized world in the same degree as that in whose harbour we were
+now lying at anchor.
+<!--208.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span>At
+first it was the inimitable grace of Cook's
+narrative of his stay in Otaheite,<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a> and the simplicity and felicity of
+its inhabitants, that left a deep and permanent impression on the mind of
+the educated reader; in after-times occurrences of a political nature
+riveted the sympathy of Europe upon this distant island and its queen.</p>
+
+<p>Before entering upon a description of the present condition of Tahiti we
+may be permitted to cast a hasty retrospect as to the state of the group
+when the first English missionaries arrived on the Society Islands.</p>
+
+<p>It was in March, 1797, about 18 months after the foundation of the
+Missionary Society in London, that eighteen ministers of the everlasting
+gospel landed in Tahiti, with their wives and children, from the renowned
+ship <i>Duff</i>. This small community dispersed itself among the various
+islands, and had to make head against obstacles of unwonted magnitude
+during a series of years. At length, about 1803, shortly after the death
+of King Pomáre I., who had raised himself from the position of a mere
+chief to the sovereignty of
+<!--209.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span>the
+island,<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> Christianity began to take
+root and spread abroad through the country. In 1812 Pomáre II., the eldest
+son and successor of Otu, declared himself of the Christian faith. Five
+years later a further accession of missionaries arrived in a merchantman
+from New South Wales, who, among other things, brought with them a small
+printing press. Then for the first time the natives of the Society Islands
+learned to comprehend the blessedness of the greatest discovery of all
+time. On 30th June, 1817, after much preliminary instruction by the
+missionaries, the first proof of a catechism was struck off by King Pomáre
+II. In the course of the same year there were issued from the missionary
+press at Papeete 2300 copies of a little alphabet book.</p>
+
+<p>It was the same ship that brought the first horse to the island, a present
+from the owner of the vessel to King Pomáre. The natives could not conceal
+their amazement when they saw the captain astride of the splendid animal.
+Very striking was the remark made by King Pomáre on the occasion: "King
+George of England," said he, "rides on a horse; but King Pomáre, a yet
+mightier king, sits at public solemnities upon the neck of one of his
+subjects!"</p>
+
+<p>The labours of the missionaries were crowned with the
+<!--210.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span>most
+splendid
+success. To them is due the merit of having abolished the hideous custom
+of human sacrifice, of having introduced law and order into the native
+administration, and of having extirpated various odious vices from their
+social habits. By their representatives, King Pomáre II. was induced to
+prohibit all distilleries and places where the kawa-drink was fabricated.
+Schools and chapels were erected, Bibles and spelling-books were printed
+and disseminated, till within ten years not alone did all the natives
+profess Christianity, but the majority of the younger population had
+learned to read and write.</p>
+
+<p>The cheering spiritual influence exercised by these Protestant
+missionaries over the aborigines was not unfortunately accompanied by a
+simultaneous elevation of their physical condition. In consequence of
+early debauchery and the spread of diseases of a certain class, which
+appear to be the inevitable concomitants of the first contact of the white
+man with primitive races, there has been a marked falling off among the
+population. It almost seems as though the Tahitians had attained the
+utmost pitch of their civilization, and thence, in obedience to a
+mysterious natural law, have been compelled, like so many other coloured
+races, to surrender this lovely abode to a more energetic and
+self-developing race, till the appalling doom befalls them of being erased
+from the list of nations!</p>
+
+<p>Thirty-nine years had elapsed since the first missionary had set foot in
+Tahiti, and Christianity had spread
+<!--211.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span>far
+and wide, before the first
+Catholic priest appeared in Oceania.</p>
+
+<p>Etienne Rochouse, a young priest of the so-called association of Picpus,
+founded at Paris in 1814, had been named "Vicar Apostolic of Eastern
+Oceania," with title of Bishop of Nelopolis <i>in partibus</i>, and about the
+close of 1833 embarked at Bordeaux with four missionaries<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> bound for
+Valparaiso, where the holy brethren arrived on 13th May, 1834. Their
+design was, wherever practicable, to forestal the Protestant missionaries
+in their zeal for conversion among the tribes of the South Sea Islands,
+whence they might diffuse themselves over the neighbouring countries, and
+thus gradually introduce themselves among the remotest populations, in the
+hope "that all, whom heresy has led astray and brought under its iron
+yoke, may be freely brought under the mild and gentle yoke of Catholic
+doctrine."<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a></p>
+
+<p>In 1836, the catechist Columban Murphy was dispatched to the Sandwich
+Islands, with instructions to stop at Tahiti on his way, and to make on
+the spot all possible inquiries as to the probable prospects of
+establishing a Catholic mission there. This was the first representative
+of the Romish Church that had visited Tahiti during the thirty-nine years
+this island was evangelized; and, carried away by the blind religious
+fanaticism which in former centuries led the Spanish
+<!--212.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span>monks
+so lamentably
+astray, Murphy believed that "hell itself must have been moved and puzzled
+by such an event!"<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> Murphy, or Columban, as he now called himself,
+travelled as a working carpenter, wore a thick beard, smoked a "cutty"
+pipe, and might have been taken for anything else under the sun than a
+Catholic priest. Although serious misgivings were felt by the native
+authorities as to his real quality, he nevertheless received permission to
+settle upon the island. He accordingly spent a couple of months here, and
+laboured with great zeal to pave the way for a Catholic settlement at a
+future period. In November of the same year, two more missionaries,
+Fathers Caret and Laval, came on to Tahiti. The circumstances under which
+they arrived aroused the suspicions of the authorities and of the entire
+population. For they did not land at Wilks's Harbour, at that time the
+only accessible harbour on the island, but secretly, on the opposite side.
+According to the law of the country, however, no captain or owner of a
+ship was permitted to land a passenger without having previously obtained
+the permission of the Queen or Governor of the island. After the two
+Catholic priests had gone the round of the island and had visited nearly
+all the native villages along the coast, they at last came to Wilks's
+Harbour, now Papeete, where they received a
+<!--213.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span>most
+cordial welcome from a
+Belgian settler, the then American consul, Mr. Moehrenhout.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of an interview which Laval and Caret had with the Queen,
+they remarked that they had only come to teach the word of God, and
+presented the youthful and at that period pretty-looking Queen Pomáre with
+a silk shawl. The Queen did not however seem disposed to accede to their
+wishes, but ordered the laws of the country to be read before them. The
+priests however declined listening to them, and took their departure.</p>
+
+<p>A notification was hereupon conveyed to the two strangers that the Queen
+could not permit them to stay any longer upon the island, and a similar
+intimation was made to Mr. Moehrenhout. As the schooner which had brought
+Laval and Caret was preparing to set sail again, the opportunity was
+seized to dismiss them by the same conveyance which had landed them. They,
+meanwhile, had blockaded themselves in a house, to which they refused all
+admission. The schooner thereupon was detained for twenty-four hours, and
+the Queen's officers surrounded the house, awaiting the moment when the
+two missionaries were to leave the place. They never made their appearance
+however. Ultimately the officers of the law were compelled to tear off the
+roof from the house, while others, forcibly seizing the priests, conveyed
+them with their paraphernalia on board the schooner, which at once made
+sail, and carried them back to Gambier Island, whence they had last come.
+Notwithstanding the
+<!--214.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span>ill-success
+of this first venture, Pater Caret made
+his appearance off Tahiti a second time seven weeks later, on board of an
+American brig, accompanied on this occasion by another priest, Father
+Maigrat. The captain of the brig, a man named Williams, wrote the Queen a
+letter requesting permission to land his two passengers. The answer was a
+firm refusal, and so continued, despite the repeated representations of
+the captain, as also of the above-mentioned M. Moerenhout. Upon this the
+captain went to work in true Yankee fashion with the view of landing the
+two Catholic missionaries by force on the island, but had to give way
+before the prudent but decided attitude of resistance adopted by the
+natives, who crowded down to the water's edge and prevented the boats from
+landing. This last attempt to carry matters with a high hand having
+failed, the captain set sail and carried off with him the two
+missionaries.</p>
+
+<p>France, though no longer openly claiming the specific character of a
+Catholic monarchy as in the days of Louis XIV., but, on the contrary,
+proclaiming herself, by her laws at least, a free state for all forms of
+religious worship, apparently thought herself compelled to interfere in
+this quarrel, with all the weight of a great European power, two of whose
+subjects had been treated with unmerited indignity. Accordingly in
+September, 1838, the French frigate <i>Venus</i>, commanded by Commodore Du
+Petit-Thouars, appeared off Tahiti to demand satisfaction for the
+ill-treatment of the French missionaries Laval and Caret, which they
+assessed at
+<!--215.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span>2000
+Spanish piastres. At the same time a treaty was
+concluded between the French Government and Queen Pomáre, by which from
+that time all subjects of the King of France were to be at liberty to
+visit and reside in the Society Islands without molestation, and were to
+enjoy similar privileges with the English.<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a></p>
+
+<p>To this treaty the French captain, La Place, who, in April, 1839, anchored
+in Papeete harbour for repairs to his frigate, the <i>Artémise</i>, added
+another article, which was countersigned by the Queen and the principal
+chiefs, and authorized the free celebration of the rites of the Catholic
+religion.<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p>
+
+<p>Had these demonstrations on the part of France had for the sole object the
+protection of the interests of Catholicism and French subjects, no
+civilized power could have objected to an act which, in entire consonance
+with the more humane and enlightened spirit of the 19th century, asserted
+the equal rights of every form of religious worship.</p>
+
+<p>But she was not content with removing obstacles or asserting rights;
+political aims, as it proved, were being advanced under cover of a
+struggle on behalf of the Catholic Church;
+<!--216.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span>and
+the events which speedily
+ensued are but a series of acts of violence and humiliations inflicted, so
+entirely unjustifiable, that even the French Government found itself in
+the end compelled to disapprove and condemn the acts of its
+representatives in Oceania.</p>
+
+<p>In September, 1842, M. Du Petit-Thouars came on a second visit to Tahiti.
+He had by this time been promoted to his flag, and had been appointed
+Captain-general of the French stations in the Southern Ocean. He had
+already taken possession of the Marquesas Islands in the name of France,
+and appeared to have come to Tahiti with similar intentions. This second
+visit terminated after the Queen and her subjects had been submitted to
+the most cruel humiliations, in the establishment of a French
+protectorate, which several chiefs demanded in a document addressed by
+them to Louis Philippe, and which the Queen was compelled to subscribe. In
+November, 1843, Du Petit-Thouars came once more to Papeete, and now took
+possession of the entire island, on the flimsy pretext that an intentional
+insult had been given to France, in the shape of a flag which he saw
+waving above the Queen's residence, and which he mistook for that of
+England! The Tahitian flag was forcibly struck by the French soldiers, and
+replaced by that of France, while Tahiti itself was declared a French
+colony. Queen Pomáre protested against this new high-handed insult; she
+wrote a letter of complaint to the French monarch, relating the
+extravagances of his officers, and in a dignified and
+<!--217.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span>simple
+address,
+implored the sympathy and support of Queen Victoria.<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a></p>
+
+<p>The violent proceedings of the admiral were not endorsed by the Government
+of Louis Philippe, which recalled Du Petit-Thouars, and restored to Queen
+Pomáre the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, but the French protectorate
+remained unaltered, since which the two islands have remained, if not <i>de
+jure</i>, at all events <i>de facto</i>, a French colony. The administration is
+vested in the hands of a proportionately increased staff of French
+officials, and import and export duties are levied by the French
+authorities, while the Queen herself receives her civil list of £1000 at
+the hands of the "Trésorier et payeur des Etablissements français en
+Océanie."<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68"
+class="fnanchor">[68]</a><!--218.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Papeete or Papéïti (<i>Pape</i>, water, <i>Iti</i>, little), which derives its name
+from a rivulet which falls into the sea here, lies at the bottom of a
+semi-circular bay, seven miles west of Point Venus, the northernmost spot
+of the island. It is the chief town on the island, the residence of the
+Queen, and the seat of government, all which is not incompatible with its
+being of very limited dimensions, not rising above the grandeur of an
+ordinary village. The dwellings of the Europeans, constructed for the most
+part of wood, covered with palm-leaves, partly extend along the shore,
+partly help to make pretty regular streets, amid which rise up on every
+side bread-fruit trees, cocoa-palms, and orange-trees, which make up in
+cheerfulness for any deficiency in stateliness of aspect. Southwards of
+the bay lie a belt of police barracks, the Protestant place of worship
+(<i>Fare-pure</i>, house of prayer), and the prison (<i>Fare-auri</i>, house of
+iron); eastward it is bounded by the promontory of Fare-Ute, forming a
+sort of dock-yard, where ships of 300 tons can be repaired. Not far from
+the place of disembarkation, and near the centre of the township, rises
+one of the most elegant buildings in Papeete, namely, that where the
+various stores for the troops are housed. The mansion of the Governor
+closely adjoins the residence assigned to the Queen, from which it is only
+separated by a garden hedge. Both are extremely simple and unpretending
+edifices, built of wood, and impress the visitor much less than another
+large quadrangular building, built of stone in the Oriental style, and
+surmounted by a cupola&mdash;this is the
+<!--219.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span>Fare-Aporaa,
+or "House of Big Words,"
+which has numerous congeners among more civilized communities. Here, for
+the future, are to be held the sessions of the Legislative Assembly, and
+here the laws of the country are to be debated. Ever since the protecting
+hand of the French Protector has extended itself likewise over the
+unfortunate inhabitants of the Society Islands, the Tahitian parliament is
+opened with all that pomp and tinsel splendour which your true Frenchman
+cannot dispense with, even among the primitive islands of the Pacific. The
+Queen, accompanied by the Governor, proceeds, escorted by a long retinue,
+to the Chamber, and opens the assembly in person, which solemnity is
+announced to the gaping crowd outside by a salvo of twenty-one guns. The
+French Governor, however, plays the most conspicuous part, as in him is
+vested the right of deciding whether the convocation of the chosen of the
+people be requisite or not. Hence it happens that many a year passes when
+it does not suit the wishes of the Governor that parliament should meet.
+On such occasions (such was the case while we were there) the Governor
+promulgates a simple edict to that effect.<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69"
+class="fnanchor">[69]</a><!--220.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Tahitians, long before the arrival of the French, had a code or
+charter of their own. The last was drawn up in 1823 by the Protestant
+missionaries, upon the model of that of England, and was revised in 1826.
+Its provisions were that the throne should be inherited by either male or
+female descendants of the reigning dynasty. By it the island was divided
+into seven districts; the legislative power was vested in an assembly of
+fourteen members, viz. two from each district, who were to be re-elected
+every three years by the people. This constitution underwent divers
+mutilations at the hands of the French Protectorate, till it had lost all
+importance. At present, however, it is the subject of lively debate, and
+the Tahitian parliament at Papeete can reckon some really distinguished
+speakers; but its solution depends much less upon the conviction of logic
+than the influence of the French officials.</p>
+
+<p>We heard a very remarkable speech from Ravaai, one of the most gifted of
+the native orators, on the occasion of a debate as to whether a law should
+be passed admitting beer and French wines, duty free, into the island.
+Several speakers were of opinion, considering the terrible spread among
+both sexes of drunkenness, with all its attendant evils,
+<!--221.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span>that
+every
+description of spirituous liquor should be prohibited to be sold to the
+natives; Ravaai, on the other hand, spoke in favour of the enactment, and
+in the course of his speech remarked: "If the use of spirituous liquors
+were in itself criminal, as some persons maintain, we should not see it in
+every-day use by the Europeans living amongst us, our pioneers in the path
+of civilization. It is only excess, abuse, that are punishable. This we
+must expect to have to punish, but do not rob us of an inherent right by a
+sumptuary and unnatural prohibition. Your declarations concerning murder,
+incendiarism, ruffianism, all which you adduce as the results of the use
+of brandy, are but oratorical flourishes: spirituous liquors, the misuse
+of which I equally with yourselves deprecate, have, no doubt, produced
+disorders, but these have been suppressed, and if our island had no
+further ills to encounter we might rejoice this day over a future of such
+prosperity and promise! Such, unfortunately, is <i>not</i> the case! People
+tell us of murders and robberies! Go the round of the island! go from
+Mahaéna to Punaruu, from Papenoo to Taapua, and a variety of other
+places&mdash;climb the mountain to the very summit of Fautáua; ask at these
+abodes of sorrow, baptized with noble blood, and covered with honoured
+graves! Say what has filled the graves of Mahaéna with human bones? Is it
+the unlimited use of spirits, or is it not rather the ignorance begotten
+of fanaticism run mad, which disloyally put weapons into your hands? But
+the graves are dumb; and certain persons present may at this moment
+<!--222.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span>rejoice
+at that repose. If it is your wish sincerely, and with hope of
+definite results, to forbid the sale of intoxicating stimulants in Tahiti,
+begin by forbidding those mighty nations who trade with our island, and
+are interested in this traffic, from bringing and introducing the
+destroying liquids in their vessels!! But your voices, ye unhappy
+Tahitians, are too feeble to make themselves heard in England, in France,
+in Spain, in America! Well, then, renounce it, deny yourselves!" The law
+was passed by ninety-five votes against thirteen, and, in consequence, not
+merely French wines, but all sorts of liquors, may be sold in Tahiti
+unchecked by license. The penalties for drunkenness have since then formed
+an important source of revenue!</p>
+
+<p>Among the foreigners settled in Papeete our Expedition had reason to be
+especially thankful to Mr. W. Howe, member of the London Missionary
+Society, and M. Adam Kulczycki,<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a> director of the administration of
+native matters, two gentlemen, of whom the former has, during a residence
+of twenty-two years in Tahiti, employed in spreading the gospel and
+raising the morals and religious standard of his little flock, proved
+himself as useful a servant, as the latter by his valuable contributions
+to our knowledge of the physical condition of the island. Dr. Nadaud,
+botanist and physician, also laid
+<!--223.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span>the
+Expedition under deep obligations
+by the cordiality with which he placed himself at the disposal of the
+naturalists, to accompany them on their various excursions, and imparting
+to them his own valuable experience, while the splendid and comprehensive
+work of Dr. G. Cuzent<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> upon Tahiti, contributed greatly to assist our
+personal impressions, experiences, and observations. Mr. Howe, the sole
+English missionary now resident in Tahiti, received us with much kindness,
+and escorted us through the various missionary buildings, in which,
+unfortunately, the spiritual energy of bygone years has dwindled away
+under the baleful French Protectorate. The institute for the education of
+teachers and pastors is quite closed,&mdash;in the printing establishment,
+which formerly kept ten compositors and two iron hand-presses in constant
+employment, only small religious tracts are now permitted to be sold, and
+these exclusively in Tahitian, a work which one man can easily get
+through. In the missionary library we saw several interesting works and
+manuscripts, mostly of a religious cast. One was shown us which seemed to
+be highly esteemed, and consisted of a thick manuscript treating of
+Tahiti, the author of which was a Mr. Orsmond, the oldest Protestant
+missionary upon the island, who died in 1857. It is said that M.
+Moerenhout, the former Belgian and American consul at Papeete, in his work
+upon Tahiti, availed
+<!--224.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span>himself
+largely of this manuscript, which has also
+been translated into Swedish.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Howe spoke highly of the liberality of the present Governor, M.
+Saisset, as compared with the intolerance displayed by his predecessors,
+with respect to celebrating Protestant worship. Then, he told us, he was
+not permitted to preach elsewhere than in his chapel, and then only in
+English, whereas now he can perform religious service in other districts
+whenever the natives request him to do so. Moreover, in the dissemination
+of religious tracts and books of prayer, there is much more relaxation
+than formerly, and during the last tour of inspection of the Governor,
+that gentleman himself took with him 500 copies of a translation of the
+Bible, for distribution among the Protestant natives of the districts he
+was about to visit. The want of elementary religious books in the interior
+was so great, that even Catholic teachers had to sue for some, preferring
+Protestant Bibles to having none at all.</p>
+
+<p>Although Mr. Howe is the only one of the fourteen missionaries once
+resident here to whom permission was accorded to remain behind on the
+island, there are nevertheless a great number of native teachers who
+preach and celebrate worship on the Sunday. The <i>Canakas</i>,<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> as it is
+the custom to call the natives, on such occasions bring with them to the
+chapel their Bibles and little hymn-books in a small
+<!--225.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span>case
+made of plaited
+palm fibre, a modern department of Tahitian industry, and, in the interior
+more especially, observe the Sabbath with much strictness.<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> It may be
+reckoned that by far the larger number of the inhabitants of Tahiti and
+Eimeo, or Morea, profess Protestantism, whereas the number of native
+Catholics does not exceed 100 in both islands. Notwithstanding the
+numerous advantages which the Catholic Church has enjoyed since the
+establishment of the French Protectorate, it has not succeeded in
+acquiring any great influence among the natives, or in enlarging its
+boundaries. The Bishop, Monseigneur Tépaud Jansen, Bishop of Axieri, who
+resides at Papeete, is also the sole priest and teacher in the colony.
+This spiritual guide has every day to celebrate mass in his wretched
+little chapel of bamboo walls and palm thatch, and has never yet succeeded
+in getting the half-ruined church close by finished for his reception; the
+8000 francs per annum (£320) paid by Government as long as the church is
+being built seem rather to postpone than hasten its erection. Moreover,
+there is not as yet any public school in Papeete, a want which is the more
+sensibly felt and the more permanent in its effects, as the majority of
+the Protestant schools are closed, and consequently a large proportion of
+the rising generation<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> are growing up in utter
+<!--226.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span>ignorance.
+In four
+districts in the interior out of thirty-three, live two or three French
+missionaries who instruct the natives in French. There is neither lack of
+energy among these zealous labourers, nor of the requisite funds,<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> to
+extend the field of their labours, so that if the Catholic mission in
+Tahiti makes no progress, and after twenty years' exertion can only reckon
+100 neophytes, the explanation must be sought in the existence of
+conditions, which neither the self-denying zeal of Catholic missionaries
+nor material protection can affect.<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a></p>
+
+<p>While in the interior of the island Sunday is thus observed with much
+strictness, there is great indifference, if not worse, in its observance
+in the seaport; indeed, it is the French official who sets the example of
+disregarding it. For nowhere
+<!--227.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span>does
+one witness more utter shamelessness
+than at what is known as the Pré Catalan, a lawn-like meadow, which
+extends directly in front of the Governor's palace, and, in fact, is one
+of its dependencies. Here, in presence of the French gens d'armes and
+soldiers, under the very eyes of the Protectorate authorities, and in
+entire defiance of the native laws,<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> dances of the most dissolute kind
+are executed by half-drunk Tahitian girls. One must have seen the Upa-Upa
+danced by these lascivious Tahitians, with all the impassioned vehemence
+of a sensual nature, in order to comprehend the mingled shame and
+indignation with which it fills any but a French by-stander. Singularly
+enough, the Upa-Upa, or Hiva, has a marked resemblance to the well-known
+Can-can, as it is, or used formerly to be, danced in the Quartier Latin at
+the Chaumière, by the students and grisettes, with the sole difference
+that in the Upa-Upa the grace of the Parisian dances is entirely lost
+sight of, so that there remains nothing but a series of obscene gestures,
+most unblushingly presented. The musicians sitting on the ground strike
+with the flat of the hand a little kettle-drum
+<!--228.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span>(<i>pehu</i>),
+and beat time as
+well with their feet. Suddenly, a dancer of either sex springs into the
+inclosure, goes through a number of extraordinary animated movements,
+which are the louder laughed at and applauded in proportion to their
+indecency, after which he or she mingles once more with the crowd,
+exhausted and breathless.</p>
+
+<p>The Tahiti women have almost invariably beautiful black hair, and
+singularly small hands and feet. Their figure is on the average that of
+the middle stature of European women. Their dress is simple, but very
+clean and neat. They wear a long white gown with plaits, which gives them
+somewhat the appearance of vestals, and wear a coronal of flowers on their
+head, or entwine the flaming blossoms of the <i>Hibiscus rosasinensis</i> in
+their thick black tresses. The more coquettish also affect an exceedingly
+elegant head-dress (<i>rewarewa</i>), which they make of the young tender
+leaves of the cocoa-palm, the satin-paper-like epidermis being converted
+by the manipulation of their skilful hands into an exquisitely fine-wove,
+rustling tissue, which they arrange among their luxuriant locks with
+genuine idealistic grace.</p>
+
+<p>The men, like the women, are tall, slim, and well-proportioned. The face
+usually is far from ugly, and betokens no little intelligence; the lips
+are full, the complexion a yellowish-brown, but on the whole fairer than
+that of the New Zealanders. The occipital region of the head seems to be
+artificially flattened, the forehead well-formed, the chin and lower
+maxillary bones are broad. Some wear European
+<!--229.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span>clothing,
+others a wide
+piece of blue calico (<i>paréu</i>), wound round the loins and reaching to the
+knees.</p>
+
+<p>The dancing in the Pré Catalan continued from afternoon till far on in the
+night, although only a faint gleam of light shone on the green floor, so
+that the darkness threw a convenient veil over both dancers and
+spectators. Quite close to the crowd of pleasure-seeking natives was a
+group of natives of New Caledonia. These had been made prisoners of war
+during the recent campaign of the French on that island, and had been
+transported hither to undergo a term of <i>travaux forcés</i> on the public
+works. On the whole, however, they were kindly enough treated, and on
+Sundays were permitted to "dance," such as the performance was, in the
+presence of their custodian. On our presenting them with a few small
+silver coins they went through their most renowned national dances for us,
+which are much ruder and more natural than those of the Tahitians, but
+apparently are not of so frivolous a character as the Upa-Upa, and other
+similar cancanized contortions of the limbs as indulged at Tahiti. The New
+Caledonians arranged themselves with spears and sticks in a circle, rushed
+violently at each other, leaped impetuously about in a state of artificial
+excitement, uttering the most singular sounds and the most appalling
+yells, then dispersed and reunited repeatedly, the leader of the dance all
+the while muttering very fast, but in perfect time, some unintelligible
+words, apparently to fire their ardour by recalling to them the memory of
+some national
+<!--230.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span>victory.
+The obscene Tahitian dances on the Sundays in
+Government gardens had been resuscitated five months before, and for this
+reason Pré Catalan, the only public promenade in Tahiti, is avoided by the
+Europeans resident in Papeete. The Protestants feel themselves sorely
+aggrieved by having such a spectacle openly sanctioned on the Lord's Day
+by the French authorities, and a collection having been set on foot about
+the time of our visit for raising sufficient to maintain a permanent band
+of music, a number of Protestants and missionaries declined to subscribe,
+on the ground of disapproving of money being expended in promoting such
+amusements.</p>
+
+<p>Among the excursions made by the members of the Expedition, a double
+interest attached to that made to Point Venus. It was on this promontory
+that Captain Cook first made the astronomical observations by which he
+determined the position of the island. The ride thither lay through
+delicious groves of cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees, mingled here and
+there with citron and orange-trees, as also bananas and guavas. Near the
+Point lies the village of Matavai, inhabited by several white settlers,
+each in his little cottage with its blooming garden around it. The
+tree-like <i>Oleander</i> and the beautiful red flower <i>Hibiscus rosasinensis</i>
+towered above in full bloom, the entire scene being almost sufficient to
+captivate a European. The native governor of the district is a pretty
+well-educated man, who has spent nine months in Paris, and on the occasion
+of the capture by the French of the fort of
+<!--231.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span>Fautáua
+had been rewarded for
+his not very patriotic services by the cross of the Legion of Honour,
+besides being appointed chief of the militia. His farm is very nicely
+managed, and his daughters, elegant, well-mannered brunettes, speak a
+little French, an accomplishment in which the Tahitian ladies,
+notwithstanding their intimate relations with the sons of "<i>la grande
+nation</i>," are usually entirely deficient. At Point Venus is a lighthouse,
+with an intermittent light, visible about 14 miles seaward, in charge of
+an aged French veteran (<i>invalide</i>). The tamarind tree is still pointed
+out, which Captain Cook planted close to the spot where he completed those
+renowned labours, which still single him out as the greatest of Pacific
+discoverers.</p>
+
+<p>With the exception of those to Point Venus on one side, and to the large
+villages of Faáa and Papeuriri in the opposite direction, there are no
+practicable roads on the island. On the whole, there are about 36 miles of
+road suitable for wheeled carriages,&mdash;all travels beyond must be performed
+on horseback, by which means the entire island can be traversed in a few
+days. One of the most agreeable excursions, and which well repays the
+trouble, is undoubtedly a drive to the beautifully situate hill-fort of
+Fautáua, renowned in the annals of the island. The first part of the road
+leads over unsightly fields of guava (<i>Psidium guava</i>), first imported
+from South America in 1815 by an American missionary, with the laudable
+object of increasing the number of useful plants upon the island, but
+which has since so entirely over-grown
+<!--232.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span>large
+tracts of land, that its
+systematic extirpation begins to be discussed. Wherever the guava takes
+root it destroys all other vegetation. It has already extended over the
+loveliest spots, where its seeds have been dropped in human or animal
+excrement. Its apple-shaped fruit, red-fleshed inside, is in the raw state
+anything but pleasant to the taste, and is not readily eaten even by the
+natives, but a sort of jelly prepared of it could be made an important
+article of export, as it is already along the west coast of South America.
+The fruit is also valuable for provender, as animals foddered with it
+speedily get quite fat, while its wood, growing with great rapidity, is in
+much request for fuel.</p>
+
+<p>After riding a few miles through these guava-fields, we were astonished at
+finding a sugar plantation close by the road, which here ran through a
+lovely little valley. This is the property of an Englishman named Johnson,
+who, once a whaler, and afterwards a sandal-wood trader, has resided for
+more than thirty years in Tahiti, and has married a native woman. Johnson,
+in partnership with a Frenchman named Le Rouge, had planted 23 acres of
+land with sugar-cane, and when we saw him in February, 1859, expected a
+crop of from 100 to 110 hogsheads of sugar. The whole property is a
+perfect model farm, and receives every encouragement and assistance from
+Government, with the view of extending sugar-planting.<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a>
+<!--233.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span>Immediately
+adjoining the plantation, the river Fautáua flows past, here about five
+feet deep, and furnishing a most excellent bathing-place. Johnson, like
+many another, lamented the appalling rapidity with which the native
+population was falling off, which he ascribed to the daily increasing
+prevalence of the vices of drunkenness and debauchery. He related to us
+how many valleys, now lonely and abandoned, were pretty densely peopled
+only twenty years ago! Then the population was estimated at 15,000, now it
+is only 5000.<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a></p>
+
+<p>The aspect of the sugar plantation is remarkably fine, and an occasional
+glimpse of the surrounding hills, bathed in the sunlight, imparts a
+sublimity that at once arrests the attention, the crags rising in close
+proximity, and appearing much more precipitous and inaccessible than they
+are in reality. The Diadem (the name given to several peaks which have a
+striking resemblance to a crown) displays itself from this point in all
+its wondrous loveliness, above which tower lofty mountain-peaks, 6000 or
+7000 feet in height, which have never been trodden by the foot of the
+naturalist.<!--234.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Close behind the hospitable dwelling of Mr. Johnson begins the primitive
+forest, under the delightful cool shades of which one can ride almost to
+the goal of the excursion, surrounded on every side by luxuriant green
+canopies that seem to scale the very clouds, under whose domes play
+grateful currents of air.<a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a></p>
+
+<p>The path, although always a steep ascent, was in very fair condition; only
+at the point where it was necessary to ford the river Fautáua, which every
+year swells into an angry torrent during the rainy season, did we find any
+serious impediment to our further advance. The bridge across the stream
+had been swept away, and there was nothing for it but to lead the horses
+through the water, an achievement of no little difficulty and waste of
+time, owing to the strength of the current and the terror and obstinacy of
+some of our horses.</p>
+
+<p>After a ride of several hours in a sort of green twilight, the forest
+began to open, and there before our astonished gaze was the most important
+waterfall on the island, imparting an inconceivable freshness and
+animation to the landscape around. The Fautáua makes at this point a leap
+of about 200 metres
+<!--235.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span>(650
+feet), into a huge basin, which lies at the foot
+of a lofty precipice, 420 metres (1450 feet) above the level of the sea;
+the temperature of the water in the basin itself being about 70° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>The steep crags, which tower overhead on all sides, and like a gigantic
+wall impede the view of the peninsula of Taiarapu, which lies behind them,
+are as marvellous in the luxuriance of the vegetation that covers them, as
+they are strategically important by their impregnability, the French
+having only succeeded in gaining footing upon them by treachery, and not
+by fortune of war. Some chiefs favourable to the French had acted as
+guides, and had led them by secret and dangerous paths up to these
+heights, for which service they to this day receive an annual pension paid
+in gold out of the state treasury. Formerly the rough, steep, almost
+inaccessible precipices formed of themselves a natural fort, and by their
+peculiar form, their position, and their strength, might be called the key
+of the entire island. The French conquerors immediately converted this
+spot, 630 metres (2052 feet) above the level of the sea, into a small fort
+with the usual tricolor flag, and, on the limited flat surface at their
+disposal, on which alone it was possible to build, erected a barrack and a
+few huts, besides laying out a kitchen-garden, which supplies with fruit
+and vegetables the residents of this solitary but lovely abode.</p>
+
+<p>The officer on guard within the fort received us with that fascinating
+friendliness and <i>bonhommie</i> characteristic of the
+<!--236.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span>French
+in all parts of
+the world, and which makes them everywhere such "jolly" companions. The
+provisions we had brought with us were speedily improved by the addition
+of everything that the garrison mess could set before us, and there was no
+lack even of delicacies, as they might be considered in these latitudes,
+for the little kitchen-garden contiguous furnished plenty of water-cresses
+and strawberries. The temperature was at this season singularly delicious
+and elastic, but in July, when the thermometer occasionally sinks to
+46&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub>° Fahr., the little garrison suffers much from cold and inflammatory
+attacks.</p>
+
+<p>Another excursion, not less charming but far more arduous, is that to the
+Waiiria Lake, far in the interior of the island. This was achieved by Mr.
+Frauenfeld, one of the zoologists of the Expedition. From Papeuriri in the
+south of the island, which is easily reached in one day from Papeete by a
+road winding along the coast, the Waiiria valley leads in a S.S.E. to
+N.N.W. direction, up to the central peak, whence the deep valleys and
+water-courses radiate towards the coast like the spokes of a wheel. The
+valley is at first tolerably wide, but so densely covered with trees and
+shrubs, interlaced in wild confusion, that the horses had to be left
+behind at Papeuriri. A rather wide mountain-torrent rushes throughout its
+length, and, a little further on, when the valley contracts into a
+pathless defile, has not merely to be crossed so frequently as to baffle
+all count, but leaves the tourist to scramble up its rocky course by
+leaping from stone to stone. After four hours' toil
+<!--237.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">229</a></span>the
+valley suddenly
+closes in, and it becomes necessary to scramble up an almost perpendicular
+precipice 1000 feet in height. It was a tight bit of work, struggling
+upwards under a tropical rain over the slippery moss-grown blocks, every
+cranny and projection thickly studded with creeping plants. The crest of
+the pass, from 60 to 80 feet wide, hemmed in by precipices impossible to
+scale, was fortified by the natives during the war; that is to say, a
+breastwork of stones was thrown up, thus converting the depression on the
+other side of the mountain, in which lies the lake, into an inaccessible
+lurking-place. Not far distant is the deep narrow defile of Ruotorea,
+which played so conspicuous a part in the older history of Tahiti, as it
+was customary to fling into it all prisoners of war. At length, about two
+<span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, the lake itself was reached, lying in a sort of mountain cauldron,
+the sides of which descend steeply, while two of the loftiest peaks, those
+of Tetuero and Anaori, rise sheer out of the lake to a height of 5000
+feet.<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> Except at the narrow strip of ground, on which M. Frauenfeld
+found himself standing, and which was nothing but a beach of small extent,
+there was no other spot within sight at which it would have been possible
+to land. The distance to the opposite shore, when visible, seems about
+half a mile. The whole basin, even where the enclosing rocks are steepest,
+indeed, almost perpendicular, and thence up to the
+<!--238.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">230</a></span>summits
+of the
+loftiest peaks, is densely covered with trees, reeds, and creepers,
+especially <i>scitamineæ</i>, the brilliant green hues of which are reflected
+in the mirror-like surface of the lake below. All the forests here are of
+wild plantain, and the sugar-cane is found growing wild in a variety of
+places. A few ducks, a swallow, and a couple of parrots were all that was
+seen of animal life. A strange silence brooded over the entire
+landscape,&mdash;not a leaf trembled, not a sound broke the solemn stillness,
+and a depressing feeling of loneliness and utter abandonment seized on the
+traveller. The spot for the night's encampment was selected close to a
+large stone, against which a sort of penthouse was erected of banana
+leaves, which promised welcome shelter during the night. The exceedingly
+unfavourable weather prevented an adequate investigation being made of the
+environs of the lake, and as the following morning was ushered in with, if
+anything, an accession of bad weather, the plan which had been projected
+of constructing a boat with which to explore the lake was abandoned, and
+the party set out on their return to Papeete.</p>
+
+<p>During our stay at Tahiti, a grand national festival took place at the
+little village of Faáa, about an hour's walk from Papeete. In fact, it has
+latterly become the custom, on every change of Governor, to have a feast
+of welcome in his honour in every district. On such occasions speeches are
+made, presents are prepared, dances are practised, and long tables,
+groaning under all sorts of food and drink, are set out in the open air
+for the invited guests. Governor Saisset, who
+<!--239.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span>had
+been seven months in
+office, and had already made the circuit of the island, visiting all the
+districts, was, however, not yet welcomed with the customary festivities
+of the inhabitants of Faáa. This solemnity accordingly passed off with all
+pomp on 22nd February. By eight <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> some twenty cavaliers had assembled
+in front of the Government Palace, whence, with the Governor at their
+head, and accompanied by the native militia, also mounted, they took the
+road to Faáa. Only one lady, Madame de la Richerie, wife of the
+<i>Commissaire Impérial</i>, accompanied the cavalcade. On our arrival at Faáa
+we found the native females, attired in their gayest national dress,
+formed into line, and the men, partly clothed in the European manner,
+partly in the "<i>Paréu</i>," a broad scarf of printed muslin wound round the
+loins, shaking their variegated plumes, and carrying banners and flags of
+bark specially prepared for the feast, some Pandanus leaves being also
+handed to the guests.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the Governor had taken his seat in the verandah of the large
+and elegant residence of the chieftain, or warden of the district (for in
+Tahiti every office, with all rights pertaining thereto, descends among
+the female members of the chief's family likewise),<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> a number of girls,
+dressed all in white
+<!--240.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span>and
+wearing elegant garlands of flowers, stepped
+forward and began to sing a national Tahitian hymn; after which the orator
+of the day, a handsome man, dressed partly in the European, partly in the
+native manner, wearing a black round felt hat and feathers, and a
+variegated bark shirt over a black coat(!) delivered a very pathetic
+address. His delivery and his gestures recalled strongly to mind the New
+Zealand orators, but, unlike the latter, he was considerate enough not to
+tax unduly the patience of his foreign guests, to whom not one word of his
+very moving discourse was intelligible. This preliminary over, a number of
+girls presented themselves one after the other to the Governor, and in
+token of allegiance presented their garlands and the nicely prepared upper
+robe of bast. In this manner about 100 crowns and bast-mantilles were
+delivered, the most elegant of which the Governor kindly presented to the
+members of our Expedition.</p>
+
+<p>In the reception-court a perfect mountain of bananas had been piled up,
+together with an immense heap of cocoa-nuts; these were also presented to
+the Governor and his suite, with the remark that every inhabitant of the
+district had contributed his mite to the festival, and bade the foreign
+guests a cordial welcome. "We may stay days, weeks, ay! months," exclaimed
+the orator, "and every house and all that was in it will be placed at our
+disposal; every one will take a pleasure in doing our bidding and
+forestalling all our wishes!"</p>
+
+<p>After this hearty, idyllic ceremonial, the inhabitants of Punataná, an
+adjoining district, came up, amid a flourish of
+<!--241.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">233</a></span>drums
+and trumpets, and
+arranged themselves on the wide road right in front of the chieftainess of
+Faáa, in consequence of Maheanú, their chieftainess, a zealous Protestant,
+not permitting on her grounds the execution of any improper dances, or the
+singing of broad songs. In fact, neither the Upa-Upa nor any other of the
+numerous Tahitian "<i>Cancans à la Chicard</i>" were suffered to be danced; the
+consequence of which was that they danced it all the more eagerly on the
+road. Six drummers, each with his little kettle-drum, squatted
+cross-legged on the floor, the right hand being employed to strike the
+instrument. To this primitive music, enlivened at times by a shrill cry,
+both men and girls now began to go through the most indecent gestures,
+accompanied by leaping on and toying with their partners till they had
+worked themselves up to such an artificial frenzy of excitement, that each
+couple at last retired exhausted and bathed in perspiration, under a
+flourish of drums and a loud shriek from the orchestra.</p>
+
+<p>The French Governor, the representative of European decorum, was one of
+the most animated of the spectators, and gave full swing to the
+recklessness of the Tahitians, who are accustomed to push the law of
+hospitality to the extent of prostituting their daughters, remarking, with
+much <i>naïveté</i>, that the natives would take it exceedingly ill were any
+one to refuse to take part in certain old habits and customs, or were to
+declare themselves openly opposed to their continuance!</p>
+
+<p>At the close of the fête the Governor ordered some French
+<!--242.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">234</a></span>wines,
+"the
+cocoa milk of the Europeans," to be set before the inhabitants of Faáa. A
+<i>déjeûner à la fourchette</i> was laid out under tents, where, at twenty long
+tables covered in the European manner, the most distinguished personages
+took their seats. Every family had contributed something, the whole having
+the appearance of a regular pic-nic.</p>
+
+<p>On each table were displayed flowers, bananas, bread-fruit, and other
+delicious products of the vegetable world. The European guests were seated
+at a large table erected at the upper end of an alley of trees. The
+chieftainess and her husband sat beside the Governor. Next in order was
+the Government interpreter, a Mr. Darling, the son of one of the oldest
+English missionaries sent out to Tahiti, on whom devolved the
+interpretation into Tahitian or French, as the case might be, of the
+various speeches and toasts.</p>
+
+<p>The dinner-service, at our table at least, was entirely in the European
+manner, which seemed to me a pity; a meal without knives or forks, as is
+the custom among the natives, would have been infinitely more interesting
+and peculiar. The husband gave the health of the ruler of France,
+and&mdash;evidently in honour of the guests from the banks of the Danube&mdash;that
+of the Emperor of Austria! Immediately thereafter the Governor rose
+suddenly and left the table, with the intention, it would seem, of
+escaping some untimeous speeches of the natives. The company presently
+broke up, and while a few of the guests returned straight to the port, the
+majority,
+<!--243.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span>the
+French Governor himself mingling with the excited populace,
+did not reach Papeete till far in the night.</p>
+
+<p>The fête at Faáa was followed, a few days later, 24th February, by a
+dashing ball at the Governor's. The <i>Pré Catalan</i> was gaily festooned with
+coloured lamps, and various devices for illuminating the festivities. The
+Tahitians, accustomed to dance only in the darkness of night, or at most
+under the light of a few paltry suet candles, flocked hither in crowds to
+revel in the brilliant light, and witness the Europeans dance the
+"<i>Upa-Upa</i>" after their own fashion. Within the Palace was assembled all
+that was ultra-fashionable in Tahitian society. All the authorities and
+notabilities of the country were present. More than 200 persons thronged
+the apartment, where, out of courtesy to our host, the band of our frigate
+played a succession of polkas, waltzes, and quadrilles. Queen Pomáre,
+accompanied by her consort and several princes and princesses of her
+house, was also present. The Governor received her at the threshold of the
+apartment, offered her his arm, and escorted her to seats already reserved
+for the royal family. Pomáre is now almost fifty years of age, stout and
+under the middle size, with a full inexpressive countenance, and a
+waddling gait. Her toilette was simple but thoroughly European. She wore a
+white ball-dress of the latest French <i>mode</i>, and flowers in her hair. In
+her hands she also carried a gigantic bouquet. Her youngest son, a boy of
+twelve years, named after Prince de Joinville, showed spirit
+<!--244.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span>and
+vivacity; the heir to the throne seemed feeble, sickly, and too soon
+matured.</p>
+
+<p>This happened to be the first presentation of the members of the
+Expedition to the Queen&mdash;the first opportunity they had had of conversing
+with her. Hitherto there had been apparent on the part of the French
+authorities a reluctance to bring about a meeting, which the Queen might
+possibly regard as a triumph. In fact, Queen Pomáre was not at liberty to
+receive any one in her house, except members of her family, without first
+obtaining the permission of the French authorities. Two incidents, which
+had occurred to arouse the French authorities shortly before our arrival,
+had still further contributed to sharpen the Queen's watchfulness, and to
+limit her receptions to her own nearest relatives. The poor woman had,
+after much pressure, and without communicating with M. Saisset, signed in
+his absence a document which fairly ran counter to a previous ordinance on
+the same subject. A territorial squabble, which had long before been
+decided by law, had, through the exertions of one of the parties
+interested, been once more brought up for trial, before the native bench,
+as it was thought that the result of the opinion of several judges might
+be productive of some more favourable result. The Governor refused his
+assent to this proceeding. The Queen, notwithstanding, under bad advice,
+issued a written mandate to the native Court to try the case over again.
+As the Court was being assembled, however, it was dismissed by the
+Governor, the chief judge banished to an
+<!--245.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">237</a></span>adjoining
+island, and the Queen
+compelled herself to abrogate the ordinance. A somewhat similar affair had
+occurred a few weeks before at the village of Papaoa, near which Queen
+Pomáre possesses a country-house, in which some of the royal family were
+implicated. Some native feasts, which in Tahiti are always accompanied
+with the wildest Bacchanalian license, had excited the crowd to an unusual
+degree. A few of the Tahitian nationality-mongers drank death to the
+whites, and pretty openly declared their hostility to a foreign yoke. The
+excess of a couple of drunken patriots was magnified by the excited fancy
+of the French officers into the dimensions of a political <i>émeute</i>, and
+seemed to present the long-coveted opportunity of showing their authority,
+and of acquiring with little trouble the credit of having nipped in the
+bud a formidable insurrection. As soon as the news of these seditious
+speeches and exclamations reached head-quarters, the Governor marched in
+the night with 150 well-armed soldiers to Papaoa, distant about an hour's
+march from the capital. Pomáre and her family were just assembled to
+evening prayers, when the Governor made his appearance, and ordered her
+forthwith to accompany him to Papeete. An Englishman resident in the
+harbour was ordered to convey the Queen to her town residence in his small
+one-horse waggon. Her two sons, however, were escorted to Papeete as
+prisoners on foot, and their hands bound behind their backs, their ears
+saluted by the oft-repeated threat of the soldiers that their lives should
+answer for any intentional injury
+<!--246.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">238</a></span>which
+the Europeans might sustain at
+the hands of the natives. As the procession approached the harbour, the
+Queen bent forward to her driver, and asked him in a low voice whether it
+was intended to carry her to the <i>Carabus</i>.<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> The driver turned off
+towards her own residence. As he turned the corner, the Queen suddenly
+started forwards, and seizing the reins from the driver with both hands,
+stopped the horse, and looked whether her two sons were by her side. She
+feared they would be taken to the prison, but they were likewise conducted
+to her house. However, Queen Pomáre and all her family and attendants were
+cautioned not to leave Papeete till the matter had been thoroughly
+inquired into. An intimation was even conveyed to the Protestant
+missionary Mr. Howe that he must discontinue his visits to the Queen till
+further orders.</p>
+
+<p>Under these circumstances it is more than probable that the persecuted
+Queen only made her appearance at the ball in deference to the Governor's
+commands, and hence possibly she confined her conversation with the
+strangers to the most common-place topics. The Queen was described to us
+<!--247.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span>as
+a clever, well-educated woman, who spoke English with considerable
+fluency, as also a little French, and in public affairs displayed a
+surprising degree of shrewdness and tact. With the French authorities she
+conversed exclusively in Tahitian. She appears much to dislike the
+intervention of an interpreter or secretary, preferring greatly to place
+herself directly in communication with the official concerned, as an
+autograph letter exhibits, which she addressed to the Treasurer
+Receiver-general, requesting him to send her a carriage in which to drive
+on business from her estate at Papaoa to Papeete.<a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a></p>
+
+<p>It is very surprising to find in the course of conversation with natives
+of every grade, that notwithstanding the French Protectorate has now
+lasted upwards of twenty years, the French language has hardly made the
+slightest advance. We met but two natives who could speak French. The
+knowledge of English even is confined to the few individuals who live
+entirely on the coast, and come frequently into contact with foreigners. A
+law was in contemplation, however, at the period of our visit, by the
+provisions of which no native after the lapse of 10 years, that is to say,
+by 1869, would be eligible for any Government employ, not even that of a
+<i>murtói</i> (police sergeant, literally "one who listens secretly
+<!--248.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">240</a></span>to
+the
+words of the people"<a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a>), unless he has a thorough acquaintance with
+French.</p>
+
+<p>On the whole, the Government of the Second of December appears to regard
+Tahiti simply as a military outpost and naval station, and to attach
+little value to the evident future commercial importance of the island.
+If, however, there are behind this ostensible indifference no secret
+views, or political <i>arrière-pensées</i> involved, it must undoubtedly be
+pronounced most unjust and unwise. True, Tahiti possesses but a small
+proportion of surface suitable for cultivation; true, with the exception
+of oranges,<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a> there is hardly any natural product exported,<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a> the
+produce of the island barely sufficing to support its own population; but,
+apart from its extremely favourable geographical position, and the
+vegetable profusion of this and the adjoining islands, Tahiti might, under
+able administration, be made a sort of general emporium for the
+<!--249.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span>interchange
+of the products of Polynesia against the fabrics of Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The total superficial area of Tahiti amounts to 104,215 hectares, 79,485
+of which form Tahiti proper and the isthmus of Taravao, while the
+peninsula of Taiarapu comprises the remaining 24,730. The greater portion
+of this surface is occupied by mountains, only a very small proportion
+being devoted to tillage. At the mouths of several of the rivers are small
+strips of arable land, of which the plains of Taunoa (near Papeete), Point
+Venus, Pusenaura, Papara, Papeuriri, and Papeari, as also the delta of the
+river Fautáua, on the peninsula of Taiarapu, are the most important.</p>
+
+<p>All these level grounds put together do not amount to more than from 2200
+to 2500 hectares, while the swampy state of much of even this small area
+renders many portions fit only for the cultivation of taro and rice.<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a></p>
+
+<p>The climate of Tahiti is uncommonly salubrious and delightful; the
+temperature is tolerably uniform, and is sensibly moderated by the
+alternate land and sea-breezes. Only about mid-day, when there usually
+sets in that profound calm, which the French, in their elegant
+epigrammatic way, style <i>l'immobilité des feuilles</i>, the heat becomes
+absolutely oppressive, but the mornings and evenings are cool, and the air
+very refreshing.
+<!--250.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">242</a></span>The
+average maximum temperature during the rainy season
+is 84°.4 Fahr., the average minimum 74°.6 Fahr. Only immediately prior to
+the outbreak of a storm does the fluctuation of the thermometer become
+strongly marked. In the dry season the temperature averages 80°.6 Fahr.
+during the day, and 68° Fahr. during the night. When, however, as
+occasionally happens, the temperature at Papeete sinks to 57°.2 Fahr. and
+at Fautáua to 46°.4 Fahr., or even lower, even the Europeans are compelled
+to adopt certain precautions against taking cold, which the natives for
+the most part disregard, and are accordingly liable to acute inflammatory
+disorders.</p>
+
+<p>With such a temperature, combined with the fertility insured by the
+volcanic tufa soil, it is perfectly evident that the majority of the
+tropical and sub-tropical nut-bearing and other alimentary plants might be
+extensively grown upon the island without much difficulty. The sugar-cane,
+the coffee-tree, the cotton-shrub, the vanilla, the cocoa-tree, the indigo
+plant, the sorgho<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a>, rice, maize, &amp;c., flourish here in a marked degree,
+and their persistent cultivation would realize a splendid profit for the
+landowner.</p>
+
+<p>Of fruits there are bananas, bread-fruits, mangoes, ananas
+<!--251.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span>(pine-apples),
+papayas (carica papayi), pandanus fruit, cocoa-nuts, oranges, lemons,
+anonas (a kind of custard apple), guavas, &amp;c. The chief sustenance of the
+natives consists of the following:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>I. The féi, or wild plantain (<i>Musa Féi</i>, or <i>Musa Rubra</i>), of which there
+are five varieties. It is first encountered at an elevation of from 600 to
+800 feet above the sea, grows most luxuriantly between the zones of 1000
+and 1500 feet, is of a very peculiar saffron-yellow colour, and is usually
+either roasted or boiled.</p>
+
+<p>II. The haari, or cocoa-palm (<i>Cocos nucifera</i>), whose trunk, bark,
+leaves, and fruit are pressed into their service by the natives. The
+fruit, however, is the most important, as it is used as meat for man and
+beast, as well as a beverage, and to obtain oil from it. Mixed with fine
+sandal-wood shavings and other aromatic substances, the oily liquid
+pressed out from the cocoa-nut is used by the Tahiti women as a
+much-prized cosmetic (<i>monoï</i>), with which to lubricate their long
+beautiful black hair. Here, as among the other South Sea islands, the
+cocoa-palm begins to bear after the first seven or eight years only, after
+which, however, it becomes so abundant that the fruit of each tree is
+valued at five francs annually. It takes 20 to 25 cocoa-nuts to make a
+gallon of oil.<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a></p>
+
+<p>III. The urú (also called <i>Maioré</i>), or bread-fruit tree (<i>Artocarpus
+<!--252.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span>incisa</i>),
+is, after the cocoa-palm, the most useful tree on the island.
+The fruit, baked in a canak (or native) oven, (<i>vide ante</i>, p. 162),
+between two heated stones, is the substitute for bread to the Tahitians.
+At the period of the war, or in consequence of a short crop, the natives,
+like the New Zealanders and the aborigines of the Caroline Archipelago,
+buried the fruit of the urú in the earth, and ate it in the putrefied
+state. The bread-tree is productive thrice in the year. The first crop,
+the best and largest, ripens in March, the second in July, the third,
+Manavahói, at the end of November. The fruit varies from eight to twelve
+pounds in weight.</p>
+
+<p>IV. The fara, or <i>pandanus</i>, the fruit of which is treated in the same
+manner as that of the urú, while the leaves serve as a thatch for the
+bamboo-cane huts of the aborigines. Of the red seeds of the <i>pandanus
+odoratissimus</i>, the ornament-loving Tahitian women prepare exceedingly
+fine coronals and necklaces. The leaves of another species, called irí by
+the natives, are used for enveloping tobacco, and making cigarettes, as
+also in the manufacture of house mats, and mats on which to sleep.</p>
+
+<p>V. The taro (<i>Caladium esculentum</i>), a sort of tuber, which at certain
+seasons supplies any deficiency in the bread-fruit, and is very carefully
+cultivated by the natives. Of this plant there are in Tahiti thirteen
+varieties.</p>
+
+<p>VI. Pia (<i>Tacca pinnatifida</i>), a sort of tuber resembling the taro, the
+mealy substance of which is chiefly used as nutriment for children and
+convalescent persons, and which in
+<!--253.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span>commerce
+is erroneously confounded
+with arrow-root, the latter being chiefly procured from the Antilles and
+India, more especially from <i>Marantha Indica</i> and <i>Marantha arundinacea</i>.
+The pia is also much used in Tahitian households in the preparation of
+small sweet cakes (<i>Poe-pia</i>), and is a not unpalatable substitute for
+wheaten flour.</p>
+
+<p>VII. Hói, or yams (<i>Dioscorea alata</i>), of which useful tuber a variety of
+species are extensively used on the island.</p>
+
+<p>VIII. Umará, or sweet potato (<i>Convolvulus Batata</i>), preferred by the
+natives to the European potato, and widely cultivated, though it has
+somewhat degenerated in Tahiti.</p>
+
+<p>IX. Fare-rupe (<i>Pteris esculentum</i>), a kind of fern, the root of which was
+in former times much used for food here, as also in New Zealand.</p>
+
+<p>There still remain to be noticed two plants of much interest, from the
+roots of which the Tahitians, prior to the arrival of the Europeans,
+obtained strong intoxicating beverages.<a name="FNanchor_91_91" id="FNanchor_91_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> These are the ti-plant
+(<i>Cordyline Australis</i>) and the kawa, or ava (<i>Piper methysticum</i>), of
+which latter fourteen varieties are known to the natives.</p>
+
+<p>The cultivation of this species of pepper is at present prohibited in
+Tahiti, and kawa-drinking has accordingly fallen into entire disuse. Only
+on the peninsula are a few aged
+<!--254.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span>Tahitians
+to be found, who appear
+obstinately opposed to the use of our alcoholized liquors, who on special
+festivities will face every privation for the luxury of boozing over their
+kawa, for which they sometimes pay five francs for a small piece.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly the process of chewing the kawa was performed by the young girls,
+and then only by those who had the finest teeth. Before beginning this
+delicate task, they were required carefully to rinse their mouths and
+purify their hands, for which purpose they made use of special vessels.
+When the roots had been slowly and equally chewed, and had been changed
+into little cones held together by saliva, they were mingled with water in
+a large wooden vessel (<i>Umeli</i>), standing upon a tripod, and gently
+squeezed by hand. In many of the islands this process of dilution is
+performed by mixing cocoa-nut juice instead of the customary water. The
+kawa is a very fluid substance, not very inviting in appearance at any
+time, but still less so when one has witnessed the mode of preparing it.
+Usually it is of the colour of <i>café au lait</i>; but occasionally, when some
+of the leaves of the plant have been mixed with the root, the beverage
+assumes a greenish tinge, something like wormwood, although to the palate
+it has nothing in common with that substance.</p>
+
+<p>Kawa is drunk out of the half of the cocoa-nut shell, which in the hands
+of a native skilled in carving becomes a really elegant beaker. Only
+families of high birth, the Arii and
+<!--255.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">247</a></span>Raatira,<a
+name="FNanchor_92_92" id="FNanchor_92_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> who are exempted from
+toil, are however able to indulge in the luxury of a daily draught of
+kawa. The symptoms of intoxication are very similar to those of opium. In
+the kawa-drinker, like the opium-eater or Samshoo smoker, there is a
+nervous tremulousness perceptible, followed by utter exhaustion, and an
+overpowering necessity for sleep. After its effects have passed off, there
+is a sensation of weariness in the limbs, to remove which the regular
+kawa-drinkers are accustomed to plunge into the cold waters of the nearest
+mountain stream. A very peculiar cuticular disease, the infallible result
+of the daily use of this beverage, is called by the natives <i>Arewarewa</i>.</p>
+
+<p>A German chemist, M. Nöllenberger, who was resident at Papeete during our
+visit to the Archipelego, had succeeded in September, 1858, in
+crystallizing the essential principle of the kawa root, which he called
+Kawaïn, the powers and properties of which he was about to investigate
+more minutely. As we have since then been favoured with a copy of the very
+valuable work of Mr. G. Cuzent upon Tahiti, already alluded to, we learn
+therein that that zealous naturalist had already,
+<!--256.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">248</a></span>in
+1857, found in the
+kawa root an organic base, which he termed Kawahine, and which is fully
+described in his interesting Monography (p. 99).</p>
+
+<p>Owing to kawa-drinking having been prohibited in Tahiti, chiefly through
+the influence of the missionaries, the use of brandy and other spirituous
+liquors is beginning to exercise a not less baneful influence in that
+island upon the physical and intellectual powers.</p>
+
+<p>In agriculture, as in commerce, the effect of the French Protectorate has
+been visibly to slacken the rate of progress. The number of ships that
+visit the island does not exceed 60 to 80 annually, representing an
+interchange of merchandise to the value of about £64,000 per annum, of
+which about five-eighths, or £40,000, may be estimated as the amount
+exported.<a name="FNanchor_93_93" id="FNanchor_93_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> What is most surprising, is the small number of whalers who
+visit the island for provisions and repairs. In 1836, the total number was
+fifty-two; at present not more than five or six in the year enter the
+harbour of Papeete. In the official reports this falling off is ascribed
+to the fish having forsaken these regions, while the stagnation of trade
+is generally ascribed to the reduction of the French garrison (!) in
+Tahiti, and the rise of late years of the Sandwich Islands and California.
+But the <i>true</i> cause of the decay is to be
+<!--257.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">249</a></span>sought
+for in a very different
+direction. It lies chiefly in a very defective system of administration,
+which is constantly being transferred from one hand to the other, having
+at its head to-day a ship-captain, and to-morrow possibly an officer of
+gensdarmes or an engineer. A letter<a name="FNanchor_94_94" id="FNanchor_94_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> addressed to the Emperor Louis
+Napoleon by an English merchant long resident at Tahiti, unsparingly
+unveils the present disorders of Tahiti with respect to rights of
+property, administration of justice, legislation, and social state, and
+draws a shocking picture of the actual state of the island, once in such
+high estimation for the felicity of its inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, the very benefits the mother country is supposed to
+derive from its Protectorate are at least problematical. While the
+establishment of French stations in Oceania has required about £240,000,
+the annual cost of keeping them on foot has never cost less than £100,000,
+and of this the Protectorate of Tahiti figures for from £24,000 to
+£28,000.<a name="FNanchor_95_95" id="FNanchor_95_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> This by no means trifling sum is not however employed in
+promoting commerce or advancing trading interests; for not more than two
+or three ships in the year come direct to Tahiti from France, while the
+majority of the
+<!--258.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">250</a></span>fabrics
+used there are English, which are imported from
+Valparaiso, the only port with which Papeete has regular communication.</p>
+
+<p>The military colony of Taiohái on the island of Nukahiwa, one of the
+Marquesas, has been entirely abandoned since 1st January, 1859, on account
+of the too great cost of keeping it up, although Uté-Moána, the king of
+the Marquesas, and the chiefs of the island of Nukahiwa, were desirous of
+retaining the French Protectorate, and had drawn up a formal address of
+submission, while, on the other hand, New Caledonia (Dum'mbia) can only be
+kept up at very considerable cost.</p>
+
+<p>Lately great reforms have been everywhere inaugurated, in order to
+diminish the heavy administrative expense hitherto incurred. The French
+colonies of eastern and western Oceania are to be provided with entirely
+independent administrations. The Governor of the French establishments in
+Oceania Oriental is to reside in Papeete, while his colleague of Oceania
+Occidental is to have his seat of Government at Port de France in New
+Caledonia. This subdivision, however, must add materially to the cost of
+maintenance, while it is difficult to see how it can augment the prospects
+of any increase of revenue.</p>
+
+<p>The French, in a word, have no success in their attempts anywhere at
+colonization; they are not practical colonists. The absence of this
+faculty, if one may call it so, is doubly apparent in the Southern
+hemisphere, where they are surrounded on all hands by English colonies.
+True it is, the
+<!--259.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span>English
+also have usually acquired by the strong hand
+their possessions in Oceania, in Australia, in Asia, &amp;c., and from the
+stand-point of humanity it is impossible always to defend the means by
+which they have made themselves masters of the fairest and most fertile
+countries on the globe. But what have been the results directly springing
+from these high-handed acts, these political <i>faits accomplis</i>? England
+has thrown open to the unrestricted enterprise of all trading and
+seafaring nations those islands and continents so highly favoured by
+nature, with their feckless fast-disappearing aboriginal races; she has
+striven, by giving free institutions, to attract diligent colonists, to
+develope the natural wealth of these countries by means of scientific
+exploration, for the benefit of all; she has wafted to the remotest
+corners of the earth the seeds of Christian civilization, and by her
+energy, her capacity for labour, and her earnestness of purpose, has
+impressed all, even the most savage races, with a feeling of envy and
+astonishment at the intellectual superiority, the power, and the greatness
+of the white man!</p>
+
+<p>Under the influence of liberal but more morally stringent laws, Tahiti
+might speedily be raised to the position of a great emporium of the
+Southern seas, the Singapore of Oceania. Under the French Protectorate, on
+the contrary, the island, with its population long since renowned for
+indolence and sensuality, has become, in fact, what a French captain once
+jocularly termed it, "La Nouvelle Cythère!"</p>
+
+<p>Although the Society Islands are by no means a French
+<!--260.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">252</a></span>penal
+settlement
+(the climate being possibly <i>too healthy</i>), there are, nevertheless, both
+at Tahiti and Nukahiwa, a few men, rather politically discontented than
+downright dangerous, whom a merciful interpretation of French martial law
+has exempted from banishment to Cayenne, (that name of terror!<a name="FNanchor_96_96" id="FNanchor_96_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a>) and
+whom we might almost say that a beneficent destiny has transported to the
+shores of the South Sea. One of these political offenders, named
+Longomasino, has to thank the visit of the Austrian frigate to Papeete for
+his restoration to liberty. He had been a journalist at Toulouse
+<!--261.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">253</a></span>in
+1851,
+and maintained a zealous correspondence with some of the most intimate
+hangers-on upon Louis Napoleon, till the <i>coup d'état</i> revealed the French
+ruler's projects, and Longomasino joined the camp of the opponents of the
+new empire. His contumacious agitation against the new order of things led
+to his imprisonment and ultimate banishment. He was first transported to
+Nukahiwa, one of the Marquesas Islands, and afterwards received permission
+to settle at Papeete in Tahiti. Starting as a farrier, then an advocate,
+and finally a tavern-keeper, he was unable in any of these capacities to
+earn a subsistence for himself and his numerous family; the less so, that
+political intrigues deprived him of the right to practise at the bar, and
+this compelled him to have recourse to a business for which he had neither
+taste nor turn. If we understood matters aright, Longomasino, in the
+course of his juridical labours, had been able to do many a good turn to
+the Catholic bishop of Tahiti in his dispute with the French
+administration, and it was therefore less sympathy with the unfortunate
+political convict than the desire to play an adversary a trick by
+depriving him of an able adherent, which induced the Governor to ask our
+Commodore permission to give a free passage to Longomasino, who had been
+condemned to transportation for life. The request was willingly granted,
+and on the eve of our sailing Longomasino came on board the frigate, while
+his wife and family were to follow by a merchant-ship. The unhappy man,
+who had not words enough wherewith to express his gratitude for the
+friendly reception he experienced,
+<!--262.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span>still
+further gained the sympathies of
+all on board, with his melancholy fate, by his manly reticence on the
+subject of the injustice he had sustained.<a name="FNanchor_97_97" id="FNanchor_97_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a></p>
+
+<p>Another convict, who had excited universal attention at Papeete, was M.
+Belmare, a well-educated young man, who in 1850 avowed he had shot at
+Louis Napoleon while at the Tuileries, and, in consequence, been
+transported to Tahiti. The fact that Belmare has since then been taken
+into the employ of the treasury at Papeete, where he receives a salary of
+£100 per annum, gave colour to the most whimsical reports as to the
+clemency displayed by the French Government in this case; yet we
+repeatedly heard the opinion expressed that Belmare was solely put forward
+as a tool for carrying out&mdash;which was to be used as a blind by giving the
+Government of Louis Napoleon opportunity for new stretches of arbitrary
+power. Whether, however, a residence at Tahiti, even with a handsome
+salary, be sufficient recompence for such services, M. Belmare alone is in
+a position to say.</p>
+
+<p>A succession of bad weather, such as so frequently occurs in the tropics,
+delayed our departure for several days. Now it was a heavy gale,
+commencing in the north and gradually veering round to W. and S.W.; now it
+was a series of calms, while the surf swept in unbroken masses on the
+beach, and so heavily, that it seemed the height of imprudence to take the
+<!--263.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">255</a></span>frigate
+out through the narrow channel which constitutes the mouth of the
+harbour of Papeete, and is nothing but a cleft in the coral walls which
+surround Tahiti, and protect it from the ocean swell.</p>
+
+<p>At length, on 28th February, at day-break, we got under weigh. One of our
+own boats, as also a boat from the French steamer <i>Milan</i>, which was
+courteously placed at our disposal, towed the <i>Novara</i> outside the reef,
+and materially aided the efforts of our men, a barely perceptible catspaw
+of wind just filling the sails. Piloted by a native lootse, we steered out
+so close to the projecting coral reefs, that the frigate all but touched
+them.</p>
+
+<p>We now had a parting view of Tahiti and the little island of Motu-Uta,
+where stood our improvised observatory, and where so many sleepless nights
+had been passed in observations for the purpose of defining astronomically
+the exact position of the island.</p>
+
+<p>We found the breeze freshened once we were outside the reef, and steered
+northwards, beautiful Tahiti, with the imposing and irregular outline of
+its hills, and the richness and variety of its vegetation, recalling, in
+some aspects, the glowing loveliness of the tropics, in others, the still
+sublimity of some of our Alpine landscapes, till it lay behind us like a
+shadowy vision of dream-land.</p>
+
+<p>Almost simultaneously with the departure of the <i>Novara</i>, the American
+whaler <i>Emily Morgan</i>, Captain Chase, stood out from the harbour of
+Papeete. This vessel had been whaling in
+<!--266.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span>the
+southern seas during five
+years, without any adequate return for her perseverant exertions. Her
+entire take was as yet only four barrels of train oil!! She was now making
+for the Sandwich Islands, and thence home to Boston. Latterly, the North
+American whalers have formed themselves into partnership, so as to divide
+profit and loss. If his companions had encountered no better fortune than
+Captain Chase, they might safely aver they had worked five years for
+nothing. The crew of the <i>Emily Morgan</i>, who were as usual almost entirely
+dependent for their remuneration on their tenth share of the oil, had
+begun to despair, and six of their number deserted from the ship, to stay
+behind at Tahiti. Throughout the voyage, Captain Chase had had his wife
+with him, a spirited energetic American woman, who on occasions could take
+her trick at the helm, or even direct the ship's man&oelig;uvres. So
+completely had she fallen into the ways on board ship, that even in
+ordinary conversation she frequently let slip a few sea-phrases, and
+recounted, with much pride, how, when the boats had been away in pursuit,
+she had kept her watch like a regular officer.</p>
+
+<p>On 8th March, Shrove Tuesday was celebrated on board. Several sailors had
+disguised themselves as Invalids, as Tahitians, as Nicobarians, &amp;c., and
+played off all manner of pranks. Dolce, our cook, the merry-andrew of the
+vessel, figured as a troubadour, in which capacity he sang several
+heart-thrilling melodies. In the afternoon the band played
+<!--267.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span>on
+deck, and
+in the evening the jolly tars, to their great gratification, received each
+a double allowance of grog.</p>
+
+<p>It was our Commodore's intention to cross the shorter diameter of the
+almost elliptical curve of equal magnetic declination, which occurs in
+this vicinity, with the view, if possible, of ascertaining by observation
+by what law the "local variation" of the needle is diminishing within the
+curve of 5°, the latest indicated in the most recent magnetic charts.</p>
+
+<p>This curve of 5° easterly magnetic declination lies, according to F.
+Evans,<a name="FNanchor_98_98" id="FNanchor_98_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a> between the parallels of 5° 30&#8242; N. and 13° S. lat., and 120° W.
+and 134° 30&#8242; W., north-eastward from the Marquesas Islands.</p>
+
+<p>The magnetic needle, as is well known, does not point to the geographical
+poles, but is deflected from the due north and south meridian, in a
+direction eastward or westward according to locality, at an angle which,
+in the measure of the easterly or westerly magnetic variation of the
+plane, is called eastern or western declination or variation, and which
+not only gradually alters at every place with the lapse of time, but also
+is universally found to assume different values at different places, so
+that in certain lines, known as lines of equal declination, the variation
+remains the same for all places under that line during a certain given
+period.</p>
+
+<p>As the compass is the sole reliable guide of the seaman
+<!--268.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">258</a></span>while
+traversing
+the ocean, and it is of the utmost importance to investigate and
+accurately lay down the ship's course for the port which is her object to
+make, it appears necessary to explain to the uninitiated how the local
+variation of the magnetic needle is determined, as thereby one can readily
+find the precise angle at which the magnetic meridian of any place is
+deflected from the true meridian.</p>
+
+<p>The determination of this divergence is effected by means of observations
+of the sun, by the aid of which one can calculate at any moment its actual
+bearings, as seen from the deck of the ship, and this, compared with the
+true position of the sun, gives the amount of variation.</p>
+
+<p>This apparently simple method of determination encounters in practice,
+owing to certain local influences, a variety of obstacles, for it is
+executed on board of a ship, which frequently contains within itself, at a
+greater or less distance from the binnacle, large superficies of iron,
+operating less or more prejudicially upon the needle, by deflecting it
+from the direction which it would actually have but for these masses of
+iron. Hence the variation is not even the same in all parts of the ship,
+nor does it follow the same direction, but varies according to certain
+laws, founded upon the intensity and direction of the magnetic attraction
+of the earth. It is therefore necessary to make allowance for these local
+deflections of the needle, in order to find the true variation of the
+needle.</p>
+
+<p>So far as regards the last-named, many thousand observations, both by land
+and sea, have resulted in furnishing us
+<!--269.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">259</a></span>with
+a rule for empirically
+finding the amount of variation, for short periods at least, according to
+which the magnetic needle is found to vary from year to year at every spot
+along certain given lines, which it has been found possible to delineate
+upon the charts; thus showing at a glance the amount of variation to be
+allowed for at any given spot. As this is sufficient for all practical
+purposes of navigation, the seaman is, in most cases, relieved of the
+necessity of making for himself these observations and calculations, if
+only he can ascertain with anything like accuracy the position of his ship
+on the earth's surface, and has determined the amount of local variation
+on board.</p>
+
+<p>These iso-magnetic lines are, however, susceptible of great improvement,
+and if they are ever to become practically and universally useful,
+repeated observations must not be neglected by such navigators as have the
+means and the requisite scientific knowledge to pursue such investigation.</p>
+
+<p>On board the <i>Novara</i> not a single sunshiny day was suffered to pass
+without the variation being frequently determined, or such observations
+repeated as related to the determination of local attraction on board.</p>
+
+<p>Under such circumstances, an unusual value attached to our ascertaining
+and following up so far as practicable the decrease in declination of the
+magnetic needle till it reached the zero point assigned to it, and
+comparing our own observations with the amounts stated on the charts.</p>
+
+<p>It was, however, at least as regarded nautical matters, of
+<!--270.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">260</a></span>by
+no means
+special importance, that we should reach the very point of minimum
+declination,&mdash;it sufficed to ascertain that the observed diminution, as
+marked upon the charts, corresponded with our observations, which proved,
+in fact, to be the case.</p>
+
+<p>This confirmation proved the more satisfactory, that when we reached the
+N.E. side of the Paomotu group (also called Pakomotu, lying between
+13°-22° S., and 135°-150° W.) we found a fresh north-easter blowing, a
+phenomenon which during the fine season is due to the high temperature of
+these islands, and of course interposed a serious and persistent obstacle
+to our intended N.E. course.</p>
+
+<p>Another impediment to our attempt to get nearer to the zero point of
+minimum declination presented itself in the far from healthy state of the
+ship's crew. A peculiar endemic colic,<a name="FNanchor_99_99" id="FNanchor_99_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a> called by the French at Tahiti
+<i>colique sèche</i>, or <i>colique végétale</i> (dry or vegetable colic), was
+rapidly extending among the men, and had already carried off one victim, a
+sailor, who died after a short illness on the morning of the 9th March,
+and was committed to the deep the same day with the customary solemnities.</p>
+
+<p>By 17th March, in 15° 52&#8242; S., and 137° 23&#8242; W., the declination of the
+magnetic needle had diminished to 5&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub>° E., and thus far agreed pretty
+accurately with that indicated by the charts; it is not, however, likely
+that it actually falls to a
+<!--271.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">261</a></span>zero
+point, but rather diminishes gradually
+as the central point is approached, which would hardly be the case if the
+declination actually fell to zero.</p>
+
+<p>By 25th March we found ourselves about the latitude of Pitcairn Island,
+from which we were barely one hundred miles distant. This island, so
+singular alike by its physical features and its remarkable history as the
+retreat of the surviving mutineers of the <i>Bounty</i> with their families,
+has latterly had its interesting population removed to Norfolk Island,
+where there was room for the simple God-fearing community to increase its
+numbers without the risk of an excess of population over the resources of
+the soil, as there appeared reason to apprehend had they been left on
+Pitcairn Island.</p>
+
+<p>The story of the mutiny itself, the escape and subsequent career of
+Captain and Admiral Bligh, the extraordinary change that came over Adams
+when, ere ten years had passed, he found himself the sole survivor of the
+mutineers, all but one of whom died a violent death, and the hardly less
+marvellous manner in which this primitive community was discovered, after
+the lapse of nearly thirty years, are themes that need no recapitulation
+here. Much less known however is their subsequent, hardly less singular,
+destiny, and it will not, therefore, be out of place if, in the interests
+of the general reader, we vouchsafe a passing notice of their strange
+career.</p>
+
+<p>In 1814, twenty-five years after the mutiny, Sir Thomas Staines in H.M.S.
+<i>Briton</i> visited the island, at which time
+<!--272.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">262</a></span>the
+little colony consisted of
+46 individuals, 38 of whom had been born thus far from all civilization.
+Nevertheless the little community were living contented and happy in all
+the simplicity of a patriarchal family, and in the cultivation of the
+cardinal virtues of Christian morality, inculcated by the now venerable
+Will. Adams, such as thankfulness to the Creator of all things, patience,
+gentleness, and neighbourly love.</p>
+
+<p>The very singular origin of this exemplary race repeatedly attracted
+passing ships to this little-known island, and this intercourse did not
+fail to exercise a pernicious effect upon the spiritual-mindedness of the
+islanders, the more so that there were among these numbers of desperate
+adventurers, who did all in their power to mislead this simple-minded
+race.</p>
+
+<p>When Captain Beechy, in 1825, approached the island in his ship <i>Blossom</i>,
+he perceived a small boat standing off towards him under full sail. On
+board were Adams himself and several of his pupils. They requested
+permission to come on board, and hardly waiting for an answer, the little
+active lads had clambered up and stood on the quarter-deck. Adams had lost
+his youthful agility, and for a moment seemed to hesitate. The sight of a
+man-of-war, it may well be conceived, made a deep impression upon him. It
+called up too many mournful recollections, and when he beheld the cannon
+and all the "circumstance of war," with which in his youth he had been
+familiar, he could no longer restrain himself,
+<!--273.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">263</a></span>and
+tears of emotion
+flowed down his wrinkled cheeks and silvery beard. At this period the
+island boasted 66 inhabitants, and the old man felt deep anxiety lest the
+little spot of earth to which he was banished apparently without hope of
+reprieve, should ere long prove insufficient to provide adequate support
+or even space for its rapidly-increasing population.<a name="FNanchor_100_100" id="FNanchor_100_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a> He spoke to the
+excellent Beechy upon the subject, and implored the English Government to
+provide his little flock with a more comfortable abiding-place under the
+English sceptre, and better adapted to the wants of his rapidly-increasing
+posterity.</p>
+
+<p>On 5th March, 1829, Adams expired at the age sixty-five, surrounded by his
+children and descendants. In the latter days of his illness, during the
+short intervals of ease which his intermittent agony left him, he
+expressed a wish that the community would during his life select some one
+to be their head; however, out of respect for the venerable sufferer, this
+was not carried out officially, but after the death of Adams, Edward
+Johnny, son of one of the seamen of the <i>Bounty</i>, assumed the Presidency
+of the little colony, while renouncing the honorary title.</p>
+
+<p>Under him the Anglo-Tahitian settlers enjoyed visible prosperity, when an
+unexpected event destroyed for ever the
+<!--274.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">264</a></span>placid
+tenure of their existence,
+and compelled them to leave their beloved island. On his return to Europe,
+the gallant Beechy, intending to confer a real benefit on the gentle
+people in whom he felt so lively an interest, had laid before the British
+Government Adams' dying request, in consequence of which an English
+man-of-war and a transport made their appearance from Port Jackson,
+Australia, in March, 1831, to transport the whole of the inhabitants to
+Tahiti, which European nations regarded as the most suitable spot for them
+to be settled in. The Pitcairn Islanders were in despair, for, when made
+aware of the steps taken by "Father Adams" through Captain Beechy to get
+them placed under the British Crown, the good folks had long before
+written to England and urgently entreated that they would not remove them
+from their own hearth; but their entreaties seem not to have reached the
+proper quarter, or else to have received no attention, and now that the
+two ships lay off the island, evincing the interest taken by the English
+Government in their future destiny, they could not venture on refusing to
+embark. They had to content themselves with the assurance that they should
+be restored to Pitcairn Island, in the event of their not finding
+themselves comfortable in their new asylum.</p>
+
+<p>By the end of March, 1831, they reached Tahiti. Although Queen Pomáre had
+set apart a certain tract of land for them to settle in, and manifested
+the warmest interest, and though the usually frivolous but hospitable and
+kindly Tahitians
+<!--275.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">265</a></span>received
+the new arrivals in the most cordial manner,
+the pure minds of the latter were so disgusted and revolted with what they
+saw at Papeete, that the very day after they disembarked, they loudly
+declared that under no circumstances would they remain there, and
+therefore claimed to be taken back to Pitcairn's Island. When it was found
+that all representations failed to induce them to make any stay at Tahiti,
+a few Protestant missionaries got up, in conjunction with some English
+residents, a fund of some £400, with which they chartered a schooner, for
+the purpose of restoring the Pitcairn Islanders to their rocky paradise in
+the solitudes of the Pacific, for which they felt such an irresistible
+homesickness. In August of the same year the return voyage took place.
+During their short stay at Tahiti, fourteen had died of sheer grief and
+anguish of mind, like plants that had been transplanted into a foreign
+soil. Although only six months absent in all from Pitcairn Island, there
+was not one single family but had to regret the loss of some beloved
+member!</p>
+
+<p>Despite their bitter experience hitherto, the old terror of
+over-population again arose in the bosoms of the Pitcairners, after a
+series of prosperous and peaceful years, and a wish began to be frequently
+expressed that at least a portion of the inhabitants could be drafted off
+to some other island. In order to comprehend and do justice to this
+feeling, one must place oneself in the position of a resident on an
+extremely small solitary island in the ocean, which is often
+<!--276.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">266</a></span>for
+years
+cut off from any communication with the outer world, and every corner of
+which has already been cultivated to the utmost: would it not be a
+pardonable anxiety, which in view of such circumstances should fill with
+gloomy forebodings the heart of every prudent head of a family, and make
+him hesitate between love for his native soil, and the desire to preserve
+independence and comfort to his family?</p>
+
+<p>A second attempt at acquiring a settlement beyond their own confined
+limits was not more fortunate than the first. The Government of England,
+with the meritorious care for the interest of even the poorest of her
+subjects in the most remote regions of the globe, which is one of her
+noblest characteristics, once more dispatched a ship of war to Pitcairn,
+with orders to transport the inhabitants to Norfolk Island between New
+Zealand and New California, of the marvellous climate, vegetation, and
+fertility of which the most glowing accounts were in circulation. A few
+plants which had been conveyed thence by English navigators to Europe had
+excited universal astonishment&mdash;such exquisite forms of vegetation, it was
+thought, could only form part of some landscape of marvellous beauty and
+richness. And one must, in fact, have seen the <i>Araucaria excelsa</i>, the
+well-known Norfolk Island pine, in order rightly to understand these
+raptures. Such an island, it was thought, with an equable climate,
+fertile, and of adequate extent, must be the very thing for the idyllic
+life of such a people as the Pitcairn Islanders. Adams' descendants and
+their kinsmen accordingly suffered themselves
+<!--277.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span>to
+be persuaded into trying
+this change, the more so that their own island was beginning, as had long
+been foreseen, to prove too small for them, and the possibility of a
+deficiency of food began to assume an appalling air of probability.</p>
+
+<p>In May, 1856, the British Government expended £5000 in sending another
+ship from Sydney to Pitcairn, to carry out the wishes of the inhabitants
+and their advocates in England, by transporting the entire community to
+Norfolk Island. There were in all 193 souls, viz. 40 men, 47 women, 54
+boys and 52 girls, who now said farewell to the land of their birth. But
+on this occasion also the elder seemed to feel an anticipation of their
+speedy return, and before they embarked they took every possible
+precaution to ensure their finding their dwellings in the same order in
+which they were leaving them. They placed written bills on the doors of
+their houses, in which they requested all visitors to abstain from
+injuring their property, as they were only leaving the island for an
+indefinite visit, and would very speedily return to their old quarters.
+They killed all the pigs and dogs upon the island, lest the first should
+violate the sanctity of the grave, and the latter injure their flocks and
+herds.</p>
+
+<p>By the ensuing harvest-time they were installed in their new home.
+Provided for the first time by the English Government with the requisite
+means of subsistence, as well as agricultural implements, &amp;c., they seemed
+to feel themselves quite at home, and their friends and well-wishers in
+England
+<!--278.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">268</a></span>began
+to indulge hopes that they had at last found at Norfolk
+Island the long-wished-for asylum, and as energetic and industrious
+landowners would at once benefit themselves and develope the resources of
+the island. These pleasing anticipations were the more natural, as for a
+number of years nothing more was heard of the "Pitcairn Islanders," except
+that everything was going on prosperously and quietly in the new colony.</p>
+
+<p>While the <i>Novara</i> was lying at Sydney, in November and December, 1858,
+intelligence was received respecting these colonists, in whom, on account
+of their singular history, the deepest interest was felt there as
+elsewhere. In the (then) Governor-general's (Sir W. Denison's) residence
+we saw a photographic group of the islanders, male and female, whose
+pleasing expression involuntarily excited profound sympathy for the
+persons thus represented. Since their arrival in Norfolk Island there had
+been no more definite news concerning them.</p>
+
+<p>At New Zealand, in like manner, nothing was known of what they were doing.
+At St. John's College, Auckland, we quite accidentally fell in with two
+young well-grown men, who we were told were Pitcairn Islanders in the
+course of education for missionaries. There was in their faces a mild,
+half-melancholy expression; they spoke perfectly good English, but in the
+most ordinary conversation used Scriptural phraseology. It was known that
+when he began to instruct the younger members of the community Adams
+possessed
+<!--279.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">269</a></span>only
+a Bible and some religious books. Thus they not only were
+instructed in the Book of books, but even in ordinary life the biblical
+phraseology and peculiarity of expression still clung, even to the fourth
+generation.</p>
+
+<p>During our visit to Tahiti we heard one day that the schooner <i>Louisa</i>,
+Captain Stewart, had just arrived from Pitcairn Island, whither he had
+transported a number of its former inhabitants from Norfolk Island. We
+resolved to get speech with this gentleman, in order that we might gather
+from his own lips the details of his voyage. It so chanced that he stayed
+in the house of an English settler, who had let to us a small palm-hut
+during our stay at Papeete. We very soon struck up an acquaintance.
+Captain Stewart, a genuine Englishman in appearance, character, and
+expression, explained to us in brief terms that he had at their own cost
+transported a number of the Pitcairners from Norfolk Isle to their old
+home, and, during the voyage, which lasted some weeks, had kept a pretty
+full journal. "But," continued the truth-loving captain, "I am not at
+present in a position to give you any circumstantial details respecting
+them. Business compels me to go over to the island of Eimeo, and by the
+time I return hither the <i>Novara</i> will be well on her way to Valparaiso. I
+am likewise bound, however, for the west coast of South America, in fact
+to Valparaiso, and shall probably arrive there a few weeks after you. I
+promise you, during my voyage thither, to jot down the most important data
+I can recall respecting these islanders, and they shall be placed at
+<!--282.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">270</a></span>your
+disposal immediately on my arrival in Valparaiso." We thanked Captain
+Stewart for his kindness, and we parted with a vigorous "shake hands" of
+genuine English cordiality.</p>
+
+<p>The reader will see in the subsequent chapter how honourably the worthy
+skipper kept his word. Two months later, after we had sailed over 5220
+nautical miles, we were handed the promised information; but to preserve
+uniformity we shall present the reader at once with this comprehensive
+sketch of the present state of Pitcairn and its amiable inhabitants, as
+furnishing the latest particulars of the islanders, which are now for the
+first time published in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>"Captain Stewart had been in communication with the inhabitants of
+Pitcairn in November, 1858. Landing at Norfolk Island, in the course of a
+voyage in the South Sea, the community chartered his schooner to convey
+certain of their number back to Pitcairn Island. They declared they had
+only quitted Pitcairn in consequence of the glowing description given them
+of Norfolk Island. Instead of the promised superabundance, they could only
+by dint of severe labour provide themselves with the ordinary necessaries
+of life. Their staple of food was sweet potatoes and a small quantity of
+meat, in fact, a single bullock, which by permission of Government they
+slaughtered once a week, and the flesh of which served the entire
+community.</p>
+
+<p>"Besides all this, the rudeness of the climate did not seem to suit them,
+and diseases seemed to become more and more frequent among them. In fact,
+it turned out that the natural
+<!--283.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span>advantages
+of Norfolk Island had been
+persistently overrated by early visitors, the consequence being that the
+poor Pitcairners found themselves woefully disappointed in the
+expectations they had formed of their sojourn in this terrestrial
+paradise.</p>
+
+<p>"The scenery of the island is everywhere lovely, and the peculiarity of
+its vegetation, especially when seen from seaward, exercises a kind of
+fascination over the beholder; but the ground, which is the most important
+consideration for the settler, who is bound to the soil, not by the
+sublime and beautiful, but by the useful, is very far from being fertile,
+and the sole descriptions of produce extensively raised are maize and
+sweet potato. Wheat and barley are so exposed to frost and mildew that
+only one crop out of several proves remunerative, and the potato makes so
+small a return, in consequence of the amount of seed and labour required,
+that it is only cultivated as a rarity. Even the commonest vegetables are
+scanty and of poor quality, and under these circumstances it is at least
+probable that the cultivation formerly carried on by the English convicts
+and criminals, in which the results would naturally exceed expectation,
+had led to the mistaken idea that Norfolk Island was fertile. It is about
+9000 English acres (14 English square miles) of superficial area, of which
+about 1500 acres only are cleared, and but one half of that, or
+one-twelfth of the whole, suitable for cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>"It is just possible to land on either the south or north sides, if <i>the
+water be smooth</i>; the little village is situated near
+<!--284.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">272</a></span>the
+former, and
+consists of about 100 'block-houses' of various dimensions. There are also
+a number of stone-buildings upon the island, which speak of the times when
+the island was a penal settlement, and comprises a large prison for about
+2000 convicts, besides the necessary barracks for the military guard; a
+church, a hospital, magazines, and dwelling-houses for the Governor, the
+chaplain, the inspector, the officers, &amp;c., buildings which, taken in
+conjunction with the grave-mounds and frail tombstones of the adjoining
+churchyard, tell a mournful tale to the visitor of the earlier
+inhabitants, and of the tragic fate of many thousands who must have toiled
+and sunk under their hopeless doom in Norfolk Island.</p>
+
+<p>"The Pitcairn Islanders occupied the houses constructed for the Government
+officials, and had not shown the slightest attempt to settle upon spots
+suitable for agriculture. When the British Government made the island over
+to them to be cleared and reclaimed there were about 2000 head of sheep,
+several hundred cattle, 20 draught horses, and a large number of swine and
+poultry. In addition to this handsome present, Government gave them
+provisions for six months, besides agricultural implements, seeds of
+various useful plants, and vegetables of every description. There were
+also two sloops, of about 15 tons each, left at the island, besides a
+complete stock of household necessaries. All the above were made a free
+gift of to the islanders by the British Government, which merely reserved
+to itself a part of what used to
+<!--285.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">273</a></span>be
+the prison-buildings, in case it
+should wish to devote them to its former purposes at some future period.</p>
+
+<p>"When Captain Stewart visited Norfolk Island, in 1858, the population
+consisted of 219 Pitcairn Islanders, and two English soldiers with their
+families, employed as surveyors by Government.</p>
+
+<p>"On the day of his arrival a public meeting was held, at which the chief
+magistrate of the community presided, and the females played a not
+unimportant part. It was arranged that for a certain sum Captain Stewart
+should convey 60 of the Pitcairn Islanders to their old abode. A special
+motion for the purpose was put to the meeting with all due form, seconded,
+and reduced to writing on either side. At the same time it was
+imperatively ordered that all should be ready to embark on the fourth day
+thereafter, and as there is but one, and that not a very safe, anchorage
+off the whole coast of the island, the Captain stood off and on in its
+neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>"The eve of the fated fourth day found the delicate question still
+unsettled of who were to be the happy 60, so many had set their hearts on
+forming part of the expedition. A second meeting was convened, this time
+under the presidency of their chaplain, but the only result was to defer
+for one day the embarkation. During this entire period the poor people
+were in the utmost excitement. The place of embarkation was covered with
+the baggage of all who were desirous of
+<!--286.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">274</a></span>returning
+to Pitcairn's Island;
+but, as in consequence of their original descent there have been such
+frequent intermarriages, and hence such close relationship, reminding one
+of the clans of Scotland, it was impossible to decide who was to go and
+who to remain. At length, on the expiry of the last day left them to
+decide, it was arranged that in the event of Captain Stewart proving
+unable to take off two entire families or clans (about 100 persons), only
+one should be taken to Pitcairn. The Captain hesitated at venturing on so
+long a voyage with such a number of souls in so small a vessel. He
+therefore took on board only 17 of the islanders, men, women, and
+children, whom he landed at Pitcairn Island, after a voyage of 42 days,
+amid tears of rapture at finding themselves on the well-remembered spot.
+The notifications they had attached to their doors on leaving had not
+entirely answered their expectations. During their absence several of the
+huts had been gutted, and a large number of the oxen had been carried off.
+However, it was not altogether malice or wanton destruction which had
+diverted to other purposes their cherished household gods. Shortly before
+their arrival, in a wild night of storms, the American clipper <i>Wild Wave</i>
+had been wrecked on a coral reef, not far from Pitcairn, and a part of the
+crew, having succeeded in reaching the island, were compelled to avail
+themselves of the building material, thus collected to hand for them, with
+which to construct a boat, in which, with true sailor-like hardihood, to
+face the winds and waves once more. For this purpose the church and some
+<!--287.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">275</a></span>twenty
+huts came handy, while a plentiful stock of goats, sheep, and
+poultry were roaming at large about the island. A considerable quantity of
+valuable tropical fruit was hanging ripe upon the trees, and seemed only
+awaiting the return of the former owners to be plucked for use.</p>
+
+<p>"The baggage was speedily landed, and an unusual activity prevailed, with
+the view of getting housed as speedily as possible. It was plain these
+poor people had never expected again to get possession of a domain which
+they had abandoned through ignorance and misrepresentation. The reverent
+air with which they entered their huts and gazed around with keen
+scrutinizing glance to see if all had been left in its former state,
+showed with what love and veneration they clung to this gloomy possession
+of their progenitors, with all its melancholy traditions, which seemed to
+exercise over them a deeper attraction than the majestic ruins of a
+princely ancestral castle, with all its world-famous memories, sometimes
+does upon the youthful representative of its pristine glories.</p>
+
+<p>"The important part played by the women during the consultations held at
+Norfolk Island seemed anew to be claimed by the fair sex at Pitcairn, and
+Captain Stewart could not sufficiently wonder at the high social position
+they occupied in the little community. The ladies for their part made the
+most of this privilege, and their utmost efforts were directed towards
+justifying it by their activity in household
+matters."<!--288.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">276</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Such is the latest that is known as to the Pitcairn Islanders and their
+singular destiny. It is not at all improbable that the majority of their
+kindred will gradually find their way back to the original seat of their
+race, there to end their days.</p>
+
+<p>Making all allowance for their aptitude and their natural preferences,
+their innate timidity and lack of decision must leave a painful impression
+upon every impartial mind; but this prominent trait of character seems to
+have a deep-seated physiological basis. The "Mutiny of the <i>Bounty</i>" was
+followed by a natural reaction. The ever-present dread of discovery, which
+constantly haunted Christian and his criminal associates, and to their
+dying day deprived them of all tranquillity of mind, was transmitted, but
+in a milder form, to their descendants, and struck root in their bosoms in
+a feeling of dependence and excessive timidity, which prevented even their
+grand-children from attaining tranquillity, and from becoming not to say
+intellectual, but even useful, members of society. Will, courage,
+independence, seem for ever to have fled from the breast of the Pitcairn
+Islanders, who, on the other hand, have many virtues well calculated to
+excite our sympathies, and of whom especially the founder of this
+simple-minded community, the energetic, clear-sighted Adams, has, by his
+actions, proved anew the truthfulness of the saying, "Whoever has the
+power to <span class="smcapac">WILL</span> (a thing) can perform miracles!"</p>
+
+<!--289.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">277</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<p>Our voyage to the west coast of America was speedy, though rather stormy.
+Seldom were the heavens clear, and alternately with violent rains, we felt
+that discomfort arising from constant motion, the result of heavy seas and
+tremendous rolling, to which the voyager is so frequently exposed.</p>
+
+<p>On 4th April, at night, while shortening sail, owing to the violence of
+the wind and the threatening aspect of the weather, one of the crew was
+precipitated from the main-top-gallant-yard, a height of 125 feet above
+the deck. Being caught as he fell among the shrouds and rigging, he
+succeeded in catching hold of one, and so with diminished force fell into
+the main-top, a fall of 69 feet, upon which some of his comrades, going to
+his assistance, rescued him from further danger, when he was found to have
+suffered so little, that he returned to duty the following day!</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th, without any particularly heavy weather, the main-yard
+suddenly snapped in two. On a more minute investigation it was found that
+it had become greatly weakened by dry rot, so much so that it could no
+longer be used. It was fortunate this took place during ordinary weather,
+so that the two fragments could be lowered without much difficulty. In a
+high sea and heavy weather, such an accident is often attended by most
+lamentable results, for two pieces of timber, each above 40 feet in
+length, measuring 21 inches at the thickest, by 8 inches at the smallest
+diameter, and several thousand pounds in weight, can hardly come rattling
+down
+<!--290.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">278</a></span>upon
+the hull of the ship without inflicting serious injury, and
+endangering the lives of numbers of men.</p>
+
+<p>As we had no spare main-yard, we had to sling a smaller one till our
+arrival at the nearest port, giving rather a singular appearance to the
+vessel, but without perceptibly affecting her speed.</p>
+
+<p>In 34° S. and 76° W., the temperature of the ocean was observed suddenly
+to fall 3°.1 Fahr., and we now, for a distance of about 200 nautical
+miles, were in what is known as Humboldt's current, which carried us
+towards N. by W. at a velocity of from half to three-quarters of a mile
+per hour. Our experience of this renowned current, so far at least as
+regards the season of the year, and the latitude and longitude in which it
+is fallen in with, are widely different from those statistics which
+represent it as sensibly felt at a distance of from 800 to 1000 miles off
+the W. coast of South America.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th, the faint outline was visible of Aconcagua, the highest of
+the Chilean Andes, and a few hours later we made the lighthouse of
+Valparaiso. A light breeze with a heavy sea made it seem advisable not to
+run in during the night, the result of which was that on the following
+morning it was only by the efforts of some tow-boats dispatched to our
+assistance by the commander of H.B.M. ship of the line "<i>Ganges</i>," and the
+French corvette "<i>Eurydice</i>" that we were enabled, by 3.30 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, to reach
+Valparaiso in the midst of a profound calm, when our anchor was let go in
+25 fathoms, good holding
+<!--291.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">279</a></span>ground,
+in an excellent roomy berth, away from
+the bustle of the merchantmen.</p>
+
+<p>The voyage from Tahiti, 5000 nautical miles, was accomplished in 48 days,
+and although a considerable portion must be marked as "lost," owing to our
+having steered for the zero point of magnetic declination, we yet arrived
+at our destination sooner than merchantmen which left Papeete before us,
+or in company, but had steered south of the Paomotu group.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Flemmich, the Austrian Consul-general at Valparaiso, immediately sent
+our letters on board, but the regular packet, which we had expected to
+find here before us, had not come in, and the delay served to double the
+anxiety of all on board, in view of the political clouds that were
+hovering over our native land.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> The original spelling of the name of this island arose from
+ignorance of the language. To the question, "<i>Eaha tera fenúa?</i>" (What is
+the name of this island?) the natives replied, "<i>O Taïti Oia.</i>" The
+article was thus taken for the first syllable and the island was called <i>O
+Taheite</i>. Since then the thorough knowledge we have acquired of the
+language has rectified the mistake. In Tahitian the two verbs "to be" and
+"to have" are altogether wanting. <i>O</i> is simply the nominative of an
+article which very frequently is placed before a proper name to give it
+emphasis, or even for the sake of euphony. <i>O</i> accordingly is used in the
+above sentence merely to imply "it is." A literal translation from
+Tahitian into any European language is in most cases impossible.
+Occasionally one finds Tahiti mentioned by the names of <i>La Sagittaria</i>,
+<i>King George the Third's Island</i>, <i>Nouvelle Cythère</i>, and <i>Amat</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> The derivation of the name Pomáre, which has since become
+that of the Tahitian dynasty, is purely accidental. The father of Otu was
+once travelling among the mountains, and had to camp out in the open air.
+The bad weather gave him a violent cold with hoarseness, which induced one
+of his companions to name the night spent in such discomfort <i>Po-mare</i>, i.
+e. a night (po) of cough (mare). The chieftain so acutely felt the
+pertinency of this name that he adopted it as his <i>own</i> name.&mdash;(Vide
+<i>Ellis, Polynesian Researches</i>, vol. ii. p. 70.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> These four missionaries were named Chrysostome Liansu,
+François d'Assis Caret, Honoré Laval, and Columban Murphy, an Irish
+catechist.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> Vide Annales de la Propagation de la Foi, No. xli. p. 31.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> "It is not surprising," he writes in a letter to his
+superiors, "that on the arrival in this country, so long given over to the
+evil spirit of a child of the <i>Sacré c&oelig;ur</i> (Divine heart), that enemy
+of all which is good should have raged with redoubled fury, and that the
+Protestant emissaries should have believed I came to overthrow their
+empire!!"&mdash;Vide <i>Annales de la Propagation de la Foi</i>, No. lvi. p. 204.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> "I am," wrote Queen Pomáre, to the then King Louis Philippe,
+"only the ruler of a small, insignificant island. May wisdom, renown, and
+power ever attend your Majesty! Cease then your anger, and pardon the
+error I have committed."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> This additional article ran as follows: "The free exercise
+of the Catholic religion is permitted in the Island of Tahiti, and in all
+the other possessions of Queen Pomáre. The French Catholics shall enjoy
+all the privileges accorded to the Protestants, <i>but they shall
+nevertheless not be entitled to meddle, under any pretext, in the
+religious affairs of the country</i>. Done at Tahiti, 20th June, 1839."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> These two letters are dated, "Waiáu, on the Island of
+Raiatea, 24th Sept. 1844," whither Queen Pomáre had withdrawn after the
+events of November, 1843, and whence she only returned to Tahiti in 1847.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> According to the laws of the country, each married resident
+contributes one franc per annum to the civil list; a widower with one
+child, one franc; a widower without children, two francs; an unmarried
+adult, two francs; an adult female unmarried, one franc; boys under
+sixteen, and girls under fourteen, as also criminals and persons
+incapacitated for labour, pay nothing. This is the only direct tax the
+inhabitants are called upon to pay. The revenues of the island do not,
+however, suffice to defray the expenses of the French occupation. Before
+the arrival of the Europeans the Tahitians had no description of currency,
+but had recourse in all business transactions to barter. The Protestant
+missionaries were the first to introduce about £2000 of copper money,
+which they had got struck in England for the purpose. This currency was
+based upon a coin of the value of one half-penny. On one side was a ship,
+and on the obverse the words "<span class="smcapac">COPPER PREFERABLE TO PAPER</span>." When the French
+came to the island they flung this money into the sea, and forbade their
+circulation under heavy penalties! At present the only coins used are
+francs and <i>réra</i> (about one-third of a franc = 3&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub><i>d.</i> nearly).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> This State paper is couched in very brief and intelligible
+terms in both French and Tahitian, and runs as follows:&mdash;
+</p><p>
+"Her Majesty, the Queen of the Society Islands, and H.E. the Governor of
+the French possessions in Eastern Oceania:&mdash;
+</p><p>
+"1st. Considering that there are no 'projets de loi' (Bills) to be
+submitted for legislative enactment during 1859, and that assembly has
+further no budget to vote;
+</p><p>
+"2nd. Considering moreover the considerable expenses to which the members
+of the said assembly are put for their sojourn at Papeete during its
+session;
+</p><p>
+"3rd. Considering Article 7 of the Ordinance of 28th April, 1847;
+</p><p>
+"Decide,&mdash;
+</p><p>
+"The Legislative Assembly of the States of the Protectorate will not meet
+in session during the year 1859. Papeete, 10th February, 1859.
+</p>
+<div class="right">
+(Signed)       "Saisset."
+</div>
+<p>
+A similar notification drawn up in Tahitian, is countersigned by Queen
+Pomáre. One Tahitian, who was a member of the Legislative Assembly,
+remarked to us, after reading the foregoing announcement in the <i>Moniteur
+Tahitian</i>, "How then can any one say beforehand whether or no there are no
+important questions to discuss?"</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> M. Adam Kulczycki, who was at that period entrusted with the
+management of native affairs, and is an accomplished Tahitian scholar,
+besides occupying himself with astronomical and meteorological
+observations, and geological investigations, has been for seventeen years
+in the French service, and, a Pole by birth, served not without
+distinction in the struggles of his native land for liberty.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> "<i>O Taïti (Tahiti), par G. Cuzent, Pharmacien de la Marine,
+&amp;c. &amp;c. Paris, Librairie de Victor Masson, 1861.</i>" It is a most valuable
+book, the result for the most part of personal examination and
+illustration, and arranged with much care and method.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> <i>Canaka</i>, in the Tahitian dialect, as in that of the
+Sandwich Islands, is equivalent to <span class="smcap">Man</span>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> At one service which we attended in Mr. Howe's chapel there
+were fifty "communicants" present; a pupil of the missionary played the
+organ. The Queen, too, and her family, who are strongly attached to the
+services of the Evangelical Church, are frequently present at these Sunday
+gatherings.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> Several of the girls who live in Mr. Howe's family are
+Catholics, whose parents prefer they should be educated in a Protestant
+school rather than not at all.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> The cost of the Catholic missions in Eastern Oceania amounts
+on the average to frs. 100,000 (£4000) per annum. "The Society for the
+Propagation of the Faith" (French) subscribes annually from frs. 3,000,000
+to 4,000,000 (£120,000 to £160,000) for the races of heathendom. Of this
+Oceania and Australia get from frs. 400,000 to frs. 500,000 (£16,000 to
+£20,000).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> With reference to this, the following remarks are especially
+noteworthy, made by M. Guizot at a time when France still possessed a
+tribune and a parliament: "What particularly strikes me is that our
+missionaries do not make new conquests for a Church already powerful; that
+they do not extend the sphere of supremacy of the ecclesiastical
+government. The Roman Catholic missionary arrives alone, ignorant of the
+actual state of affairs, having none of the affections common to
+humanity&mdash;in a word, better fitted to acquire an ascendant than to enlist
+sympathy. The Protestant ministers are, on the contrary, family missions,
+so to speak; so that a pagan population will more readily be led to regard
+as brothers men who are husbands and fathers like themselves. Thus these
+missions instruct by presenting specimens of Christian society side by
+side with precepts of faith; the example of all the relations and
+sentiments of domestic life, regulated according to the morality of the
+Gospel they are sent to teach; a mode of instruction most assuredly not
+the least efficacious, if not absolutely perfect." (Discours de M. Guizot
+dans l'Assemblée Générale, du 11 Avril, 1826.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> In the "<i>Lois Revisées dans l'Assemblée Législative au mois
+de Mars de l'année 1848, pour la conduite de tous, sous le gouvernement du
+Protectorat dans les terres de la Société</i>," is the following stringent
+passage, "The dance, known as Upa-Upa, is interdicted in the islands under
+the Protectorate. On fête days and public festivals dancing is permitted,
+but no indecent gestures will be tolerated." The Upa-Upa dates from the
+period when the secret society of the Arréois, whose chief tenets were
+drinking feasts, polygamy, and infanticide, existed over the greater part
+of the islands of the Pacific. Moerenhout, in his "<i>Voyages aux íles du
+grand Océan</i>" (Paris, 1837, vol. i. p. 484), gives a very complete account
+of this singular society, which has since entirely disappeared before the
+zeal of Protestant missionaries.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> Experiments have also been made quite recently with coffee,
+which the Government likewise fosters. The largest plantation is the
+property of a Frenchman named Bonnefin, who, in 1859, grew as much as 8000
+lbs. The high price of labour, however, renders its production so dear
+that Tahitian coffee costs 100 fr. (£4) the centum (100 lbs), or about ten
+pence the pound, on the spot, whereas the best Costa Rica coffee costs
+only from £2 to £2 8<i>s.</i> the centum, or five pence to six pence the pound.
+The Protectorate officials hope to supply this very perceptible lack of
+labour by introducing into Tahiti, as field workers, the prisoners of war
+they take in New Caledonia.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> Mr. Wilson, a missionary, estimated the population of Tahiti
+in 1797 at 16,000 souls. In 1848, when the French administration took its
+first census, the native population amounted to 8082 (viz. 4466 males,
+3616 females), the number of Europeans being 475 (428 males and 47
+females). In 1858 it had fallen to 5988, or 2580 fewer than it had been 30
+years before (1829), when, according to a census taken by the English
+missionaries, the population of Tahiti was 8568 of both sexes and all
+ages.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> Among the splendid specimens of the forest flora of Tahiti
+we remarked, in addition to the cocoa-nut palm, the bread-fruit tree and
+Pandanus, of which we shall presently speak more at length, on account of
+their economic, industrial, and therapeutic qualities. The <i>Calophyllum
+Inophyllum</i> (Ati), <i>Inocarpus edulis</i> (Masse), <i>Aleurites triloba</i>
+(Tu-tui), <i>Rhus Taïtense</i> (Apape), <i>Ficus tinctoria</i> (Máti), <i>Ficus
+prolixa</i>(Ora), <i>Gleichenia Hermanni</i> (Eanúhe), <i>Hibiscus tiliaceus</i> (Puráu
+or Fáo), <i>Lagenaria vulgaris</i> (Hue), <i>Pisonia inermis</i> (Puna tehea),
+<i>Spondias dulcis</i> (Bri), <i>Arundo Bambus</i> (Ofé), <i>Tanghinia Maughas</i>
+(Ruva), <i>Morinda citrifolia</i> (Nono), <i>Guettenda speciosa</i> (Tafano), <i>Boxa
+Orellana</i>, &amp;c. &amp;c.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> According to Kulczycki's measurements the lake lies 430
+metres (1401 feet) above the sea, and is 400 metres (1304 feet) in
+circumference, while the precipitous peaks around are 1800 metres (5865
+feet) above sea-level.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> According to the laws of Tahiti, whenever the entire male
+descendants of a chief have become extinct, his eldest female offspring
+becomes chief of the district, sits as such in the legislative assembly,
+and has a voice in the administration of justice. At present there are
+five chieftainesses, who are members of the Tahitian parliament. Their
+husbands have no political influence whatever, except as the husbands of
+these ladies!</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> <i>Carabus</i> (Anglicé Calaboose) is a corruption of the Spanish
+word <i>Calabozo</i>, a prison. The <i>Carabus</i> of Papeete is a sort of pound in
+which drunken people or mischievous vagabonds are confined, and whence
+they are released on payment of 5 or 10 francs. These mulcts or
+convictions form a not unimportant source of revenue, and are of twofold
+demoralizing operation; for while it is the interest of the police on the
+one hand to make as many arrests as possible, so as to insure a larger sum
+for division, the wretched, sensual Tahitian girls find in the prosecution
+of the filthy trade that has brought them within the clutch of the police
+the best means of procuring their release!</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> Queen Pomáre finds herself entirely dependent upon the
+French Protectorate. On the slightest symptom of asserting her position
+she is met by a stoppage of her allowance, and as, in consequence of the
+rather opulent mode of life adopted by the generous-hearted lady, the
+incomings and outgoings are apt not to square, her pecuniary straits are
+not infrequently made use of for political purposes.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> Obviously a corruption of the French "mouton," the popular
+name for a spy.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> Of this expensive fruit, which grows in large quantities on
+the island, and only needs to be gathered, there are exported annually
+some five or six ship-loads, worth about fr. 200,000 (£8000), all which
+find their way to California, where 1000 oranges are worth from $40 to $60
+(£8 8<i>s.</i> to £12 12<i>s.</i>), whereas, a similar quantity is worth in Tahiti
+at the outside £1 to £1 4<i>s.</i></p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> Besides the cocoa-nut oil and arrow-root, which are at
+present exported from Tahiti and constitute its chief trade, the produce
+of the neighbouring islands might be conveniently passed through Tahiti.
+The pearl oysters (<i>Meleagrina Margaretifera</i>), which are usually dredged
+for in the months of January, February, March, and April, come chiefly
+from the Paomotu and Gambier groups. The latter-named group, however, only
+sends about 500 tons of these annually, worth about fr. 500 to fr. 600
+(£20 to £24) per ton. In the year 1859, the entire importation of these
+was contracted for by a merchant of Papeete at $140 (£29 10<i>s.</i>) per ton.
+The natives of Gambier, accustomed to dive, use to bring up the pearl
+oysters from a depth of from 150 to 180 feet.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> On the island of Eimeo, or Morea, lying off Tahiti, the area
+of which is 13,237 hectares, there is a table-land about the centre of the
+island, surrounded by a semi-circular range of lofty precipices, which
+would be found thoroughly fit for cattle pasture. The cultivation of the
+grape and of European vegetables might also be profitably undertaken.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> Here also we encountered this useful plant, which was first
+introduced into Tahiti in 1851, by means of seeds from Paris. Of these
+twenty-five were sown, which within three months gave a sufficient return
+of seed to admit of the cultivation of the sorgho being extended through a
+number of districts. One year later, the crop amounted already to about
+2100 kilogrammes (4900 lbs., or two tons and a quarter), which were
+disposed of at 1&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub>d. per kilogramme (somewhat under a penny per lb.).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> A gallon of cocoa-nut oil is worth, by way of barter for
+goods, about one franc and a half, and for specie one franc. The adjoining
+islands abound in cocoa-nuts, Anaa, one of the Paomotu group, being
+capable of delivering from 300 to 400 tons of oil per annum.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_91_91" id="Footnote_91_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> The fermented juice of the orange, the pine-apple, the
+<i>pandanus</i> fruit, the <i>spondias dulcis</i>, and the wild bananas, were also
+used in former times for the preparation of intoxicants. Since the
+introduction of European spirits, the natives discriminate all foreign
+drinks as <i>Ava-papáa</i>, their own being named <i>Ava-maóhi</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_92_92" id="Footnote_92_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> Before the arrival on the island of the Europeans, Tahitian
+society was divided into three classes: viz. Arii, or chiefs; Raatira, or
+land-holders, of whom the most distinguished in each district were called
+Tataui; and, lastly, Manahune, or Tenantry at will. To the latter class
+belonged all prisoners of war. Between the Arii and Raatira there was a
+middle class, the Eiétoaï, corresponding to the European title of
+Honourable. Latterly the name <i>Tacana</i> has come into almost universal use
+for the Arii, being in fact nothing but a corruption of the English word
+"Governor."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_93_93" id="Footnote_93_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> These calculations are merely approximative. The Custom
+House at Papeete has sufficient documents, but it keeps them secret,
+apparently for political reasons, if we may credit the remark of a
+Tahitian. "It is not wished to let all the world know that we are <i>not</i> in
+a prosperous state."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_94_94" id="Footnote_94_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> Letter concerning the actual state of the island of Tahiti,
+addressed to H.M. the Emperor Napoleon III., by Alexander Salmon. London,
+Effingham Wilson, 1858.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_95_95" id="Footnote_95_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> The French garrison in Tahiti and Eimeo (Morea), including
+the administrative officials, numbers about 400 men. The Governor
+receives, besides extras, £1200 pay; the <i>Commandant particulier</i> draws
+other £800, in addition to which both these officers draw <i>allowances</i> as
+officers in the Imperial navy (13<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> to £1 per diem.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_96_96" id="Footnote_96_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> We had an opportunity while at Papeete of obtaining some
+particulars of this renowned French penal settlement from the mouth of a
+person whom no one will be likely to accuse of exaggeration. M. de la
+Richerie, who, while we were at Papeete, filled the position of Imperial
+commissary, and is the present Governor of Tahiti, was for four years
+(1854-57) director of the penal settlement at Cayenne. During the period
+of his authority the entire population consisted of from 5000 to 6000
+prisoners, 1500 garrison, 200 free settlers, and from 16,000 to 18,000
+negroes. The expense of keeping on foot this small colony was not less
+than from £160,000 to £200,000. The mortality among all classes, free as
+well as prisoners, was perfectly appalling, averaging from 28 to 33 per
+cent.!! Of 6000 prisoners, 2000 died in one year; out of 36 medical men,
+18 died in the discharge of their duties. The number of fever-stricken in
+the hospital was never less than from 500 to 600!! The director once
+entered an apartment in which above 250 of the unfortunate political
+criminals lay on their sick beds. He inquired of the physician in
+attendance how long they were likely to live? Possibly a year, was the
+reply. "<i>Dépêchez-vous donc</i>," said the director, as he turned from the
+unhappy wretches, who had no resource except the hospital, and, sick in
+mind and body, longed earnestly for the day which should see their
+wretched couches vacated for the calm tranquillity of death. M. de la
+Richerie was of opinion that no political convict lives more than four or
+five years in Cayenne, and that even the free settler cannot withstand the
+deadly influence of the climate above ten years. But the government
+founded on the 2nd December gives itself little concern. The utility of
+the system of deportation has been fully understood, and is unsparingly
+carried out. The time seems to be at hand when all Frenchmen who venture
+to challenge the Napoleonic ideas, will be banished their native country,
+nay, exiled from Europe.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_97_97" id="Footnote_97_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> Shortly after his arrival in Valparaiso, Longomasino went to
+Serena, a city in Chili of 20,000 inhabitants, near some rich
+copper-mines, where he occupied himself with editing a newspaper in
+Spanish.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_98_98" id="Footnote_98_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> Chart of curves of equal magnetic variations, 1858, by
+Frederick Evans, Master, R.N.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_99_99" id="Footnote_99_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> This colic stuck to the ship for nearly eight months, and
+out of 36 cases, the shortest time it took to run its course was nine
+days, the longest 94.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_100_100" id="Footnote_100_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> One main source of anxiety, which determined Adams to
+request the good offices of the British Government, was the scanty supply
+of drinking-water. There was at this time only one available spring of
+fresh water, and this supply was so small that two quarts of water were
+all that each family could be allowed during the
+day.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--292.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">280</a></span></p>
+
+<div style="position: absolute; left: 50%; margin-left: -338.5px;
+width: 677px; height: 675px; background-image: url('images/illu292.png');
+background-color: transparent;"><a name="illu292" id="illu292"></a>
+<span style="position: relative; top: -1em;">The Lasso</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="icba" style="width: 677px; height: 480px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 50px; margin-right: -264px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 50px; margin-right: -264px;"></div>
+<div class="icbl" style="height: 80px; margin-right: -280px;"></div>
+
+<h2 style="clear: none;"><a name="XXI" id="XXI"></a>XXI.</h2>
+
+<div class="c2" style="clear: none;">Valparaiso.</div>
+
+<div class="c3" style="clear: none;"><span class="smcap">Stay from 17th April to 11th May, 1859.</span></div>
+
+<div class="ChapDescr" style="clear: none;">
+Importance of Chile for German emigration.&mdash;First impressions of
+Valparaiso.&mdash;Stroll through the city.&mdash;Commercial relations of
+Chile with Australia and California.&mdash;Quebrada de Juan
+Gomez.&mdash;The roadstead.&mdash;The Old Quarter and Fort Rosario.&mdash;Cerro
+Algre.&mdash;Fire Companies.&mdash;Abadie's nursery-garden.&mdash;Campo
+Santo.&mdash;The German community and its club.&mdash;A compatriot
+festival in honour of the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Journey to Santiago de
+Chile.&mdash;University.&mdash;National Museum.&mdash;Observatory.&mdash;Industrial
+and agricultural schools.&mdash;Professor Don Ignacio Domey
+Ko.&mdash;Audience of the President of the Republic.&mdash;Don Manuel
+Montt and his political opponents.&mdash;Family life in
+Santiago.&mdash;Excursion trip on the southern railroad.&mdash;Maipú
+Bridge.&mdash;Melepilla.&mdash;The Hacienda of Las Esmeraldas.&mdash;Chilean
+hospitality.&mdash;Return to Valparaiso.&mdash;Quillota.&mdash;The German
+colony in Valdivia.&mdash;Colonization in the Straits of
+Magellan.&mdash;Ball at the Austrian Consul-general's in honour of
+the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Extraordinary voyage of a damaged
+ship.&mdash;Departure of the <i>Novara</i>.&mdash;Voyage round Cape Horn.&mdash;The
+Falkland Islands.&mdash;The French corvette <i>Eurydice</i>.&mdash;The Sargasso
+sea.&mdash;Encounter with a merchant-ship in the open ocean.&mdash;Hopes
+disappointed and curiosity excited.&mdash;Passage through the Azores
+channel.&mdash;A vexatious calm.
+</div>
+
+<p>The free State of Chile enjoys a higher degree of tranquillity than any of
+the former Spanish dependencies of South America,
+<!--293.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span>and
+in climate, in
+fertility, and in liberal institutions, transcends all others in affording
+the European emigrant the best prospects of a prosperous future.</p>
+
+<p>Chile possesses a constitution which many a European state might envy, the
+civil freedom, which forms the basis of all laws, and just now is so
+eagerly debated and investigated in some parts of Europe, having been in
+practical operation here for upwards of a quarter of a century, during
+which it has materially contributed to develope the resources of the
+country and the prosperity of its inhabitants. Owing to the disturbed
+state of the American Confederation, hitherto the El Dorado of European
+emigration, countries such as Chile, of an extent similar to that of
+England and Greece together, and with a population barely exceeding one
+million of men, possess the very highest attraction. True, at the period
+of our visit the long-enjoyed political tranquillity was for a while
+disturbed by a revolutionary convulsion, but it has cost neither time nor
+trouble to suppress it, upon which the leaders, more ambitious than
+patriotic, took to flight, and public order and safety were reinstated
+upon the broad basis of a constitution, which was wisely drawn up so as to
+admit of keeping pace with the times.</p>
+
+<p>We beheld Chile under anything but its normal favourable aspect; many of
+the leading families of the country had been plunged by political troubles
+into grief and mourning; trade was falling off; the ordinary buoyant
+disposition of the Chileno had given place to painful anxiety; yet all we
+<!--294.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">282</a></span>heard
+and saw during our stay at so unpropitious a period, only served to
+strengthen our conviction that a great and splendid future awaits this
+delightful country.</p>
+
+<p>He who merely lands at a seaport such as Valparaiso, and wanders through
+its lengthy but elegant streets, carries away with him no just conception
+of Chile and the life of the country beyond the Andes. Everything about
+the town, houses, shops, and population, has quite a European aspect, so
+that the stranger walking through some of the streets with their lofty
+grey edifices, gay signs, and large and splendid magazines, abounding in
+everything that can minister to human luxury, might readily fancy himself
+transported to some northern European capital. Nothing is here to tell of
+its being the native country of the Araucanian, nothing recalls that
+singular national aboriginal type, and it is only when contemplating the
+majestic forms of the surrounding landscape that he can realize that he is
+actually in the proximity of Andes, "giant of the Western Star."</p>
+
+<p>One of our first walks through the city, the buildings of which extend,
+row after row, for a considerable distance along the bay, and surmount the
+hillocks (<i>Quebradas</i>) which rise at a short distance from the shore,
+brought us to the <i>Aduana</i>, or Custom-house, one of the most extensive,
+beautiful, and commodious buildings in the city, which, commenced in 1850
+by a Frenchman, was finished six years later by an American, named John
+Brown. The ground on which the various buildings are erected was quite
+recently gained from the sea
+<!--295.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">283</a></span>by
+embankment, as was also done in the case
+of the existing <i>Plaza de Armas</i>, and the wide and graceful <i>Calle de
+Planchada</i>, both which sites were under water less than twenty years
+since!</p>
+
+<p>The Custom-house buildings, including the vast solid warehouses, cost the
+State more than 1,000,000 Spanish piastres (£210,000), but form the finest
+and most convenient edifice of the kind throughout South America. An
+enormous quantity of the most valuable merchandise, which used to be
+scattered about among private houses or disposed of, are now stored in
+large, dry, well-lighted apartments, and can without much trouble or delay
+be got at and taken away. About 200 officials are at work in spacious
+offices registering the trade of the State, which is in a very flourishing
+state, owing to the immense importation of the most various foreign
+fabrics, paid for in a not less extensive export of Chilean products,
+chiefly corn and precious metals. The start taken by the country in
+commerce and agriculture, as also the development of its natural
+resources, dates from the period of the discovery of the Californian
+gold-fields. Chile, so admirably suited for agriculture, very speedily
+became the granary of the gold-country, and set about making the most of
+its manifold advantages. Wheat, barley, beans, increased so much in value,
+that many fields which, on account of comparative poverty, had been
+suffered to lie fallow hitherto, now got under cultivation, and the former
+scanty means of the majority of the proprietors of the soil was at once
+exchanged for
+<!--296.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">284</a></span>unexampled
+prosperity. The influx of specie did not fail to
+stimulate activity in every other occupation as well, and was mainly
+instrumental in working the mines more systematically, and thus making
+them more productive than hitherto.</p>
+
+<p>The exportation to California speedily increased ten-fold, and within two
+years had increased nearly 2,500,000 piastres (£525,000).</p>
+
+<p>When the gold fever had a few years later abated somewhat in California,
+and the settlers there began to grow grain for themselves, the Chilean
+exports thither dwindled away, till, about 1857, they had sunk to a
+minimum hardly worth mentioning. But meanwhile a second, though rather
+more distant, market was found for Chilean exports, by the discovery of
+not less productive gold-fields in Australia, the imports into which from
+Valparaiso, despite the enormous distance, proved so immensely
+remunerative that the ventures of former years to California were quite
+eclipsed.<a name="FNanchor_101_101" id="FNanchor_101_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a></p>
+
+<p>Leaving the Custom-house buildings, we climbed up the Quebrada de Juan
+Gomez, one of the numerous narrow valleys or clefts which, spangled on
+both acclivities with villas, usually thatched with shingle, impart to the
+environs of Valparaiso so peculiar an appearance. The most extraordinary
+of these is the <i>Cerro de Carretas</i>, a hill from 200 to 300 feet
+<!--297.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">285</a></span>high,
+to
+the slopes of which cling a variety of filthy wicker huts of the poorest
+sort, which, regarded from a distance, have a picturesque effect. On a
+closer inspection, however, they exhibit utter destitution and degraded
+poverty. At the highest point of the steep Quebrada de Juan Gomez are some
+fortified lines recently thrown up, together with the artillery barracks
+(<i>Cuartel de Artilleria</i>), with accommodation for 800 men. The Chilean
+troops are pretty well equipped, but have a by no means imposing air; they
+appear to be patient and persevering, fit for encountering great
+privations and overcoming obstacles, rather than courageous, or eager for
+the fray. There is, in short, a total absence of "dash" about them. From
+the barracks one enjoys a magnificent view over the city and the environs,
+hemmed in on all hands by the ocean. The roadstead greatly resembles that
+of Trieste, and, like the latter, suffers much from N.W. winds. The
+merchantmen lie at anchor in pretty regular order, with the double object
+that, in case of a sudden "norther," they may not suffer from ships
+dragging their anchors, and may be able at once to make sail if necessary.</p>
+
+<p>Although at the commencement of the winter season (May to October) of the
+southern hemisphere, when frequent storms from north and north-west make
+the roads of Valparaiso, if not dangerous, at least hazardous, the
+majority of sailing vessels make for other better-sheltered harbours along
+the west coast, yet there were still about 180 vessels of all sizes and
+every flag lying at anchor off the town. The most
+<!--298.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">286</a></span>unpleasant
+and severe
+months are June and July, although it is at that period less the violence
+of the gales than the tremendous sea, which occasionally hurls a ship, if
+not properly made fast, into a position of danger, and occasionally
+interrupts all communication with the shore for days together. A season
+sometimes passes over, however, without the occurrence of any elemental
+strife. It would be of the highest interest to be able to ascertain the
+periodicity of the return of severe winters, which there can be little
+doubt obeys some natural law.</p>
+
+<p>The barometer is, at Valparaiso, a pretty correct index of the wind that
+may be expected. The more the mercury sinks, the more perceptible will be
+the N. or N.W. wind. Rain and foggy weather usually precede these winds,
+and continue till the wind draws somewhat to the west, upon which the
+mercury rises and the weather improves. North or north-west winds are,
+however, as a rule never of long continuance, and indeed frequently
+continue only a few hours, because so soon as the first burst is over, the
+trade-wind, upon whose limits it has encroached, soon begins to drive it
+before it, under the influence of an air-wave from the southward, and
+ships which, with the view of suffering as little as possible from north
+or north-west winds, keep as far from the lighthouse as possible, have
+nothing to dread from even a heavy "norther," if all proper precautions
+are taken, and their anchors and cables hold.<a name="FNanchor_102_102" id="FNanchor_102_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102_102"
+class="fnanchor">[102]</a><!--299.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">287</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the harbour were the screw steamers <i>Maipú</i> and <i>Esmeralda</i>, and the
+paddle screw steamer <i>Maule</i>, belonging to the very insignificant navy of
+the Chilean Republic. From the barracks we passed up several Quebradas to
+the ancient "Cuartel" and Fort Rosario, two buildings remarkable enough in
+their way, the erection of which dates back to an early age, as they in
+fact belong to the period when Valparaiso had only 400 population, and was
+part of the assize-circuit of Casa Blanca. The latter, however, which we
+pass on the road to Santiago, is still an insignificant settlement, while
+Valparaiso has become the wealthiest and most important commercial
+emporium along the whole west coast of South America, and boasts a
+population of above 60,000 souls. There are also in this vicinage numbers
+of small filthy one-storeyed huts or <i>ranchos</i> built of cane, which seem
+as though hanging to the acclivities, and are not intended to last any
+time. As it rarely rains at Valparaiso, and then but little, and the
+temperature being tolerably mild throughout the year, the poor have little
+occasion to provide themselves shelter against cold or boisterous weather,
+or to build strong and solid habitations. Moreover, there is perceptible
+among the Chilean populace, as among all other Spanish Americans, an
+innate trait of character, in the shape of indolence and indisposition to
+labour, as they usually strike work for the day as
+<!--300.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">288</a></span>soon
+as they have
+earned enough for the daily necessaries of life, which they can supply for
+a trifle. Nay, we are told that it is by no means unusual for
+day-labourers, as soon as they have earned their day's wage for their
+principal want, to reply in an indifferent tone to the offer of farther
+work, "Tengo mis dos reals" (I have my two reals)!<a name="FNanchor_103_103" id="FNanchor_103_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a></p>
+
+<p>Not all the Quebradas, however, round Valparaiso are infested with
+wretched huts; some are occupied by tasteful and comfortable residences,
+especially the Cerro Algre, where at present a considerable number of
+Germans reside, and which is conspicuous for the number of elegant little
+villas, as also by the cordiality and hospitality there lavished upon
+strangers. Cerro Algre is one of the most charming, delightful, and
+salubrious spots in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, with a magnificent
+panorama, although not so fashionable a resort as the Almendral, which,
+since the recent appalling conflagration of 1858, reducing within a few
+hours the finest portion of the city to ashes, has been rebuilt with
+numbers of handsome edifices, and has at the same time been widened and
+extended.</p>
+
+<p>The frequency of fires, and the totally inadequate means and appliances
+for their extinction at the disposal of the authorities, led to a number
+of foreigners settled in Valparaiso organizing a Fire-brigade
+(<i>Pomperos</i>), in which the <i>élite</i> of the community shortly after were
+enrolled. The founders and first company were the English, after whom came
+the
+<!--301.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">289</a></span>Germans,
+French, Spaniards, Italians, and lastly the Chilenos
+following suit. A hook and ladder company, consisting of English, Germans,
+and North Americans, was set on foot in 1850. All the arrangements are
+modelled after the Fire Companies of the United States. The engines were
+imported from New York, and cost over £800 a piece. The French displayed
+the greatest luxury in the splendid uniforms of their company and the
+elegant fittings of their very beautiful engine; the Germans, on the other
+hand&mdash;not always the case with them&mdash;show but a very simple attirement,
+but are behind no other nation in the zeal and courage with which their
+fire company performs its self-imposed duties.</p>
+
+<p>Valparaiso is sadly deficient in suitable promenades, and consequently
+strangers must not be surprised, should they be invited to take a walk to
+the Cemetery (<i>Campo Santo</i>), in order to promenade there among cypress
+alleys, and pretentious-looking memorials of the departed.</p>
+
+<p>The Campo Santo is situated on one of the rising grounds behind the city,
+and with its clumps of trees and flower-plots, looks in fact much more
+like a promenade-garden than a grave-yard. Each Catholic fraternity
+(<i>hermandad</i>) has its own place assigned it for interment of the dead.
+Beautiful and costly monuments are raised over some of the recent graves,
+like so many testimonies in marble of the influence exercised even upon
+the resting-places of the dead, by the accumulated wealth of the last
+twenty years. Close beside the Catholic
+<!--302.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">290</a></span>cemetery
+is that of the
+Protestants, which, like the other, is neatly laid out and kept in
+excellent order, but on the whole impresses the visitor less by the
+splendour of the monuments and the elegance of the inscriptions, than by
+its air of solemn simplicity.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the spot where repose their dead is the place of worship of
+the Protestant community, a slight but neatly-finished edifice of wood,
+somewhat like the "chapels" of the English colonies. This is a pleasing
+evidence of the tolerant spirit of the Chilean Government, in strong
+contrast with most other Catholic states in South America, where religious
+intolerance of heterodoxy goes the length of prohibiting all public
+profession of their faith.</p>
+
+<p>Valparaiso is as badly off for fine open squares and monumental erections
+as for promenades. The Government Square, with its neat Exchange, and
+Victoria Square, with its Theatre, are neither by their antiquity, nor
+their general appearance, calculated to make any impression upon the
+traveller. There is great need of large, good hotels upon the European
+plan; and as there are no cheerful, comfortable cafés, to serve as a
+rallying-point for the male sex after the business of the day is over, the
+traveller is usually dependent for society upon being introduced at the
+different clubs, founded by the various nationalities. Of these the German
+was the finest; but, in consequence of their beautiful, spacious club
+having fallen a sacrifice to the recent conflagration, the members had to
+seek temporary accommodation in rather confined apartments,
+<!--303.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">291</a></span>which
+greatly
+hampered their desire to show all due honour to our Expedition. Not less
+cordial, however, was our reception, nor the warm interest taken by the
+entire German community of Valparaiso in the scientific attainments of
+certain of its members.<a name="FNanchor_104_104" id="FNanchor_104_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a> Nowhere did the old German hospitality shine
+forth with more serene lustre than among the Germans of Chile, nowhere is
+there a more splendid manifestation of the vigorous intellectual life of
+the good old stock, nowhere a more thorough expression of German unity in
+foreign countries! Exercising a powerful influence in society, as
+merchants, physicians, professors, naturalists, astronomers, chemists,
+engineers, architects, &amp;c., the activity of the German in Chile in every
+avocation of life has not been without a permanent influence on the
+destinies of this free State, and has already left in its institutions
+many a trace of German origin.</p>
+
+<p>One of our most pleasing reminiscences is undoubtedly that of the
+magnificent natural fête got up by the German residents of Valparaiso in
+honour of the <i>Novara</i> one heavenly Easter morning, which came off at the
+beautiful Quebradas of Quilpué, about twelve miles from the port. Quilpué
+is a station on the railroad which runs from Valparaiso into the
+<!--304.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">292</a></span>interior,
+and is intended to form the communication between it and
+Santiago de Chile, 110 miles distant, but of which at present only the
+first 40 miles have been completed.</p>
+
+<p>A special train, its locomotive neatly decorated with garlands of flowers
+and banneroles, conveyed the guests, 150 in number, to Quilpué. From this
+station the joyous party marched with the German flag at the head to one
+of the neighbouring dells, which seemed intended by nature to serve as the
+site of pic-nics in the open air. Here, under a number of spacious and
+elegant tents, we found long tables set out, which a cloud of waiters and
+cooks seemed engaged in loading with every delicacy that could tempt the
+palate.</p>
+
+<p>The company wandered through the adjoining glades, or lay stretched out in
+the shade, in a delicious ecstasy of music and song. The alarm of war,
+which at the moment was booming through Europe, had found its way even to
+the foot of the Chilean Andes, and imparted to the festival a political
+feeling. Although the then state of political matters in Austria was by no
+means such as to fill the mind with enthusiasm for it, yet all the
+feelings of the German of Valparaiso were enlisted on the side of Austria
+in her struggle with France; less out of sympathy with her policy as then
+displayed than out of hatred of Napoleonic assumption.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, in some of the after-dinner speeches which followed in due course,
+as well as in the inspiring songs with which the entertainment was
+enlivened, there was free expression given to this sentiment. A Bavarian
+physician and pharmaceutist,
+<!--305.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">293</a></span>Dr.
+Aquinas Ried, whose house we found one
+of the most pleasant points of cordial re-union for the members of the
+Expedition, had composed a chorus for male voices, called "Welcome to the
+<i>Novara</i>," which he led himself with some of the members of the German
+Choral Union, the closing strophe of which,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Sei einig nur Germania,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">So stehest du auch einzig da,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Das grosse Vaterland!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>was received with enthusiastic applause, and was greeted with deafening
+cheers.</p>
+
+<p>This widely-expressed sympathy for German nationality found expression in
+various other ways, not the least conspicuous being the marked courtesy to
+the Expedition manifested by the natives of Chile itself, and in an
+especial degree at Santiago, the capital, where public officers,
+naturalists, and lovers of science vied with each other in welcoming such
+of our number as went over to spend a few days there, and in aiding them
+to carry out the object they had in view.</p>
+
+<p>With these scientific aims were united others of a political nature, our
+Commodore having been honoured with H.I. Majesty's commands to enter into
+a commercial treaty with the free Republic of Chile. For this purpose
+Commodore von Wüllerstorf had gone to Santiago in company with the
+Austrian Consul-General, M. J. F. Flemmich, and the author of this
+narrative, the two geologists and the draughtsman of the Expedition having
+set out thither some days
+before.<!--306.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">294</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The journey to the capital of Chile is not among the most inviting. There
+are numerous crests of mountains (<i>questas</i>) to be crossed <i>en route</i>,
+which at many points are steep, not to speak of the bad construction of
+the roads, and the little care taken to keep them in order. Frequently the
+carriage rolls along the very verge of a profound abyss; the soil seems
+about to give way, gravel and stones plunge thundering down, while neither
+wall nor wooden railing intervenes to prevent the traveller from following
+them. Moreover, the vehicles in ordinary use are not calculated to
+diminish the perils of such a journey, especially if it is an object to
+arrive speedily at one's destination, when the regular national coach, the
+Birloche, as it is called, must be used. It is a sort of double-seated
+two-wheeled cabriolet drawn by two horses, while five or six horses trot
+alongside, which furnish the change of horses when required. The driver
+rides one of the horses, as in Havannah, and is wonderfully skilful in his
+way. He usually wears the national brown-covered <i>poncho</i> (a quadrangular
+piece of cloth with an opening in the centre through which the head
+passes), a small straw hat, linen pants, and on his bare feet enormous,
+heavy spurs, sometimes fastened by a piece of leather, sometimes with a
+mere cord.</p>
+
+<p>We pushed forward without stoppage as far as Casa Blanca, one of the most
+ancient settlements of Chile, which, however, as previously remarked, has
+always preserved its village-like aspect. Here we fell in with several
+very handsome ladies,
+<!--307.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">295</a></span>elegantly
+dressed, each sporting a gigantic
+crinoline. They had come from the neighbouring <i>haciendas</i> to Casa Blanca
+to be present at a race-meeting. Having dispatched a hasty meal, we pushed
+busily forwards, and reached the village of Curacavi, where travellers to
+the capital usually pass the night. No great provision is made here in the
+shape of good inns, for considerable as is the traffic of loaded waggons,
+conveying merchandise and produce, the number of travellers is very
+limited, and even the few whom business or pleasure induces to visit the
+capital are for the most part natives of the country, or Europeans long
+resident, who usually take up their quarters with acquaintances or
+business connections, and are therefore exempt from all necessity to look
+after their comfort. Travellers who spend the night in such inns generally
+carry with them insect-powder, as the number of fleas and other
+troublesome insects is legion!!</p>
+
+<p>At the capital, Santiago, the traveller is somewhat better off as regards
+houses of entertainment, and the Hotel Ingles (English Hotel), kept by a
+Frenchman, may not only boast of elegant apartments and an excellent
+cuisine, but surpasses all European hotels in expensiveness.<a name="FNanchor_105_105" id="FNanchor_105_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a></p>
+
+<p>Santiago de Chile lies in a beautiful fertile valley, and would present a
+much more imposing appearance, were it not that, owing to the frequency of
+earthquakes, the majority of the houses were built only one storey high.
+The long straight
+<!--308.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">296</a></span>streets
+intersecting each other at right angles, are in
+a state calling loudly for sanitary regulation; uneven, badly ballasted,
+with huge ruts at the sides, so that it is difficult to say whether the
+foot-passenger or the charioteer is the worst off. Much of this is due to
+the number of heavy two-wheeled <i>carretas</i> or country waggons, drawn by
+six or eight oxen, in which all produce is conveyed from the interior of
+the country to the harbour, and foreign merchandise transported from the
+sea-board to the capital. On our journey hither we counted 124 of these
+lumbering vehicles, creaking and rattling on their way; but there are on
+the average 300 such on the road between Santiago and Valparaiso. A good
+deal of the less bulky merchandise is also carried on horse or mule-back.</p>
+
+<p>Of striking public buildings Santiago is almost as destitute as
+Valparaiso, the Mint,<a name="FNanchor_106_106" id="FNanchor_106_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> which dates from the time of Spanish Supremacy,
+being the sole building worth noticing. The city also boasts of a Plaza, a
+large quadrangular, open spot, of no special elegance, although it has on
+one side the Cathedral, still in process of erection, on the other a range
+of private dwellings with arcades beneath, in which nestle swarms of
+stall-vendors, besides several Government buildings which are concentrated
+here. Of public promenades, the Alameda, a long, wide poplar-alley, is,
+beyond all question, the finest, as well as most frequented, especially on
+Sundays and holidays. The period of our visit, the winter of
+<!--309.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">297</a></span>the
+Southern
+Hemisphere was not favourable to our carrying away a correct impression of
+the public walks at their gayest, especially when, as in our case, the
+weather is raw and gloomy, and the mournful rustle of dead leaves sounds
+like the elegy of departed gaiety. Thus, for example, the dam along the
+sides of the river, the waters of which in the rainy season swell into a
+furious torrent, but the bed of which was now quite dry, forms in summer a
+delightful walk; whereas in winter it is only visited by students,
+preachers meditative of their next discourse, or lovers oblivious of the
+elements.</p>
+
+<p>There is in Santiago a surprising degree of intellectual activity, and
+great readiness in promoting scientific discovery. The philosophical
+works, which have of late years made their appearance, are deserving of
+the highest praise. The educated foreigner is not regarded askance here
+with envious eye, nor, because he happens not to be a native, kept in the
+back-ground, and refused admission to positions of public trust and
+influence; he is rather encouraged in his exertions by the example of such
+men as Domeyko, Philippi, Pissis, Moesta, &amp;c. The well-known costly work
+in 24 volumes, describing the physical and political history of Chile, was
+composed by a Frenchman named Claudio Gay,<a name="FNanchor_107_107" id="FNanchor_107_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> the expense of printing it
+in Paris being borne by the Government. The annals of the University of
+Chile appear in regular publication
+<!--310.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span>each
+year from 1843, and comprise
+choice though miscellaneous information upon almost every topic of
+scientific interest.</p>
+
+<p>One of the leading and most highly informed professors in this principal
+seat of education, Don Ignacio Domeyko, a Pole by birth, but who has made
+Chile his second home, very kindly acted as cicerone to our Expedition,
+and furnished us with most valuable details as to the present state of
+public instruction.</p>
+
+<p>The University of San Felipe was founded in 1738, but the present system
+of instruction has only been in operation since 1842. The joint Council of
+the five professors of the faculties of philosophy and the humanities,
+physical and mathematical science, medicine, judicial and political
+instruction and theology, are intrusted with the supervision of the entire
+national education, each faculty having also the privilege of naming
+corresponding members, and in other respects occupying the position of
+similar institutions in Europe. The President of the Republic is the chief
+patron. The amount expended by the State annually in public instruction,
+is upwards of £120,000, an enormous amount considering the small
+population.<a name="FNanchor_108_108" id="FNanchor_108_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108_108"
+class="fnanchor">[108]</a><!--311.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">299</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The University is also charged with the custody of the national library of
+32,000 volumes, embracing works upon every subject of scientific
+inquiry,<a name="FNanchor_109_109" id="FNanchor_109_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> and the museum of natural history, in which are very
+complete ethnographical and geological collections. The most remarkable
+object in the latter is undoubtedly the native stag, <i>Huemul</i>, or <i>Guamul</i>
+(<i>Cervus Chilensis</i>), which figures conspicuously on the Chilean
+escutcheon, and was long regarded as a fabulous animal, as it had never
+been seen alive. However, in the year 1833, the specimens (male and
+female) at present in the museum were shot in the Cordillera de Campania,
+within a short period of each other.<a name="FNanchor_110_110" id="FNanchor_110_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a></p>
+
+<p>The observatory was in temporary quarters on an eminence in the midst of
+the city, but within a few years the new building would be completed,
+which was being constructed by Government for astronomical purposes,
+outside the town not far from the school of agriculture. The instruments
+in use were chiefly provided by the well-known North American traveller
+Gillis, who for many years carried on astronomical observations for the
+American Government in South America, especially in Chile, and when his
+labours were completed, left his instruments with the Chilean Government
+by way of indemnity. The management of the observatory is intrusted
+<!--312.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">300</a></span>to
+Dr. Moesta, a German astronomer well-known in astronomical circles.</p>
+
+<p>The school of Technology (<i>Escuela de Artes y oficios</i>), founded in 1845
+by a French gentleman named Jariez, and, like the preceding, assisted by a
+grant from Government, has met with great support and success. In this
+eminently practical institution upwards of a hundred pupils are being
+taught the construction of machinery, and the various processes connected
+therewith, the children of poor parents having a preference. The pupils
+are boarded, lodged, and clothed gratuitously, and have therefore nothing
+to do but to remain four years in the establishment, after which they
+serve Government six years longer, assisting in the public works at a
+given remuneration, or if there should be no need for their services in
+the latter department, they are at liberty immediately on the expiry of
+their apprenticeship to follow what occupation they please. One young
+Chileno was pointed out to us who had risen from being a pupil to the
+position of foreman, and was now engaged in imparting instruction in
+drawing and mathematics.</p>
+
+<p>As important in its way as the Escuela de Artes, and equally useful in the
+interests of science and industry, is the <i>Quinta normal</i> for the landed
+proprietary. This model farm, founded in 1851, and arranged upon the
+French system, is situated outside the town, and consists of a tolerably
+extensive plot of land, which includes within its limits the new
+observatory and the botanical gardens. The present director
+<!--313.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">301</a></span>is
+a graduate
+of the Ecole Centrale of Paris, and his indefatigable activity speedily
+insured the prosperity of the undertaking. It is divided into two
+departments, a school of agriculture proper, and a veterinary college. The
+course, which comprises agriculture, botany, and treatment of diseases of
+animals, besides the elements of chemistry, physiology, geology, zoology,
+and geometry, besides geography and drawing, extends over three years,
+every pupil educated at the expense of the State being required to devote
+six years to the public service. Government has reserved to itself thirty
+free presentations, which it may increase to sixty.</p>
+
+<p>The small but well-arranged museum contains an admirably selected
+collection of the most important esculents and grasses suitable for
+foddering cattle, as also the conditions of soil which are best suited for
+growing these, besides a number of different fruits, executed in <i>papier
+maché</i>, with remarkable fidelity to nature, belonging to trees and plants,
+cultivated at the Institute, with the purpose of ultimately selling them
+at the proper time to farmers, and thus not only do justice to agriculture
+as a science, but increase its own revenue, not to speak of the benefits,
+direct and indirect, to the country at large. The purchaser is thus
+enabled to judge for himself what description of fruit will be likely to
+prove most remunerative to him, while the establishment at the same time
+realizes a considerable sum by this sale of seedlings, plants, and seeds,
+in a country where hitherto so little attention has been bestowed on
+high-class
+agriculture.<!--314.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">302</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The zealous and far-seeing director is also endeavouring to induce the
+Chilean landowner to grow turnips, and other tubers, which might be used
+for foddering the cattle in winter, and so lead to a more economical
+system of cultivation, and consequent improvement of the race of farmers
+themselves. At present, where this kind of farming is utterly unknown, as
+soon as winter sets in, many a landowner finds himself compelled, year
+after year, to sell or kill his cattle owing to want of fodder, while he
+himself goes out as a day labourer, till the return of spring. The
+introduction and extension of such a system, which would enable him to
+maintain his herds and flocks all the year round, would put a stop to his
+present unsettled mode of life, improve his farm, and impart increased
+comfort and security to every relation of his business.</p>
+
+<p>At this <i>Escuela normal</i> we likewise found the sorgho, or Chinese
+sugar-cane, in course of cultivation with great success. Though the
+temperature is occasionally so low in Santiago as to form, during the
+winter, ice<a name="FNanchor_111_111" id="FNanchor_111_111"></a><a href="#Footnote_111_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a> about two lines in thickness, the sorgho does not seem to
+suffer any damage, but gives its three crops each year, besides being much
+used for fodder. The first seeds of this species of grass, which has
+within four years made the circuit of the globe, and is now profitably
+cultivated
+<!--315.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">303</a></span>in
+almost every part of the world, were imported into Chile
+from the free States of North America.</p>
+
+<p>Professor Domeyko, who possesses a most admirable geological and
+mineralogical collection, presented the Expedition with a choice selection
+of interesting and costly ores from the copper, silver, cobalt, and
+quicksilver mines of the country; and although the rich stores of
+publications and geological specimens with which the director of the
+Geological Institution of the Austrian Empire, Counsellor Haidinger, had
+provided for the purpose to present them to scientific institutions in the
+different foreign countries visited, was already exhausted and done away
+with, yet we had at least the satisfaction of learning that the Imperial
+Institute of Geology,<a name="FNanchor_112_112" id="FNanchor_112_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a> whose eminent director has extended throughout
+the world the renown of Austria, as a pioneer of geology, maintains
+already an active correspondence with the managers of the museum of the
+Chilean Republic.</p>
+
+<p>Very soon after our arrival at Santiago, our Commodore was honoured with a
+special audience by the President of the Republic, H.E. Don Manuel Montt.
+The Commodore was accompanied by the Austrian Consul-general and the
+author of this narrative. The reception came off in a plain but
+<!--316.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">304</a></span>elegantly-furnished
+apartment of the palace-like Government House, the
+style of which is quite modern. Don Manuel Montt, a short, under-sized
+gentleman, with dark strongly-marked features, and straight, somewhat
+bristly, hair, had during the recent troubles displayed more courage and
+energy than his external appearance would have led one to expect, and used
+his dictatorial authority with such discretion and prudence, as to excite
+the astonishment and respect of all well-wishers of his native land. He
+was attended at the interview by the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Don
+Jerónimo Urmeneta, a man of frank, attractive manners, whose youth was
+spent in the United States, and who speaks English fluently.</p>
+
+<p>The conversation turned chiefly upon the proposed commercial and
+navigation treaty projected by the Imperial Government, a sketch of which
+in the Spanish language was read over to the President by the Commodore.
+Don Manuel (as the highest authority in the free State of Chile was called
+by the people) expressed the utmost readiness to carry out this
+arrangement, and repeatedly avowed his wish to enter into intimate
+relations with the Austrian Government, and execute all necessary papers,
+which could assist an object fraught with such benefits to both nations.
+He also spoke of the desirability of endeavouring to increase the
+intercourse between the scientific institutes of Chile and Austria, and in
+token of the interest he took in the objects of the Expedition, presented
+a copy of Gay's splendid work, as also
+<!--317.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">305</a></span>an
+extensive collection of all the
+historical and statistical papers illustrative of Chilean history during
+the last ten years.</p>
+
+<p>The hope indulged by the Commodore of being able to get the preliminaries
+of the Treaty signed before our departure, were unfortunately frustrated
+by the serious political events which then entirely occupied the attention
+of the various members of Government. It was necessary by moderate
+measures and an energetic policy to crush out the Revolution, which had
+broken out about two months prior to our arrival, before it had attained
+uncontrollable dimensions. The insurgents in this case were not vehement
+hot-headed Republicans, desirous of further liberty, but reactionary
+Ultramontanes (of whom there always are some, even in a Republic), who
+wished to overthrow the existing Liberal Government, and substitute in its
+place a more flexible cabinet, more dependent upon party tactics. The
+dread lest the insurrection should spread till it resulted in civil war,
+which would throw back for years the prosperity of the country, proved to
+be well-grounded. For several of the most prominent and distinguished
+citizens of Chile, as also the clerical party always so powerful in
+Spanish American colonies, had united with the insurgents, whose youthful
+and ardent leader, Don Pedro Gallo, belonged to one of the wealthiest and
+most influential families in Chile. He had already assumed a threatening
+attitude in the northern provinces, where his family was held in high
+consideration, and had cut off all communication with the mining city of
+Copiapó.
+<!--318.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span>His
+mother, a lady some sixty years of age, harangued her son's
+troops from the balcony of her house, and repeatedly excited her auditory
+by shrieking out the thrilling assurance, that "she would sacrifice her
+last farthing would it but ensure the downfall of the existing Government,
+and the return to power of the party of the <i>Peluqueros</i>" (literally
+wig-makers, or Whigs, who in Chile are regarded as adherents of the
+Conservative, or rather reactionary party).</p>
+
+<p>Of the immense sums which ambition and party rancour are willing to
+sacrifice in Chile, some idea may be formed from the fact that the Gallo
+family, at the commencement of the insurrection, engaged to devote their
+whole fortune, estimated at more than £600,000, in promoting the aims of
+the revolutionists. Fortunately for the pecuniary interests both of the
+family and the State, it was nipped in the bud, before any enormous
+expenses had been incurred, although it must be confessed that also in
+Chile making war is a most costly pastime. The Intendant of Valparaiso,
+Don Joaquim Novoa, informed us that the cost of maintaining the
+highly-paid Chilean army, which does not number above 8000 men, amounts to
+500,000 dollars (£100,000) <span class="smcapac">A WEEK</span>!!! considerably more, proportionally,
+than four times the estimated cost of the highly-trained British army.</p>
+
+<p>Our evenings in Santiago were usually spent in private circles, and we
+found ourselves in no small degree astonished at the elegance and luxury
+which were visible, both in the fitting up of the reception-rooms and the
+toilettes of the guests.
+<!--319.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">307</a></span>It
+is true, we associated with the wealthiest
+and most distinguished families in the country, but we had not expected to
+find the subdued but exquisite French taste so universally prevalent. The
+external aspect of the houses of the Chilean patricians is rather massive
+than elegant. The heavy iron grating which surrounds the wide lofty
+windows leave a disagreeable gloomy impression. The large quadrangular
+court, or Patìo, enclosed by the bed-chambers, and which is common to
+every Spanish American house from Chile to Mexico, is intended less for
+the passage of air and light to the various apartments than as a place to
+fly to in case of an earthquake (which, however, within the last 20 years
+were of rare occurrence in Chile and of no great importance), whence it
+would be easy to escape. Usually the reception-room has no cost or pains
+spared to embellish it; every object or article of furniture in it being
+designed to produce a certain effect. The expense and risk attending the
+transport of a large mirror or pianoforte, or other article of similar
+value, from the factory at Paris to its destination in Chile, is enough to
+make the visitor open his eyes with amazement at beholding them there!</p>
+
+<p>Conversation, which, owing to the limited information of the ladies,
+usually turns in South American drawing-rooms upon the most common-place
+subjects, is marked in Chile by all the interest and vivacity consequent
+on the important influence exercised by the fair sex over the politics of
+the country, which prefers debating important political events to idle
+chatter and ordinary
+talk.<!--320.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">308</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Even more agreeable than the evenings we spent among the patrician circles
+of Santiago, were those which we passed with an Austrian gentleman, Dr.
+Herzl, settled here some ten years, and with some German-Spanish families.
+Here everlasting politics, or rather party squabbles, had not, as in the
+native <i>salons</i>, banished music and song, the latter being cherished as a
+means of rising out of the hurly-burly, and keeping the annoyances of
+public life, for the moment at least, at arm's length.</p>
+
+<p>In Chilean salons nothing was talked but politics; here the bent of
+conversation was towards literature and art, and, climax of the evening,
+the beloved melodies of our native land. Madame Z&mdash;&mdash;, a native of Madrid,
+a second time married to a German, is a downright musical prodigy. In her
+youth she had studied at the <i>Conservatoire</i> in Paris in company with
+Madame Malibran, and although now 54, and the mother of 16 children, she
+still entrances by her clear ringing voice, and the charm of her
+exquisitely appreciative intonation.</p>
+
+<p>The chief engineer and director of the southern railway (Ferro Carril del
+Sur), a North American gentleman named Evans, a graduate of West Point,
+had the kindness to invite some members of the Expedition to visit the
+Maipú Bridge, distant some 17 miles from Santiago, and accompanied them in
+person on their excursion to this the most interesting engineering work of
+the line. We set off at 1 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> by one of the ordinary trains. The road is
+intended to unite Santiago
+<!--321.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">309</a></span>with
+the very productive district of Talca, a
+distance of 180 miles, and is destined to exercise a most beneficial
+influence in improving the position of the peasantry.</p>
+
+<p>The drive through the valley of Santiago is exceedingly interesting, as
+the line keeps close beneath the Cordillera through nearly its entire
+length, thus revealing to the gaze of the astonished traveller a
+succession of Alpine landscapes, such as one might behold in crossing the
+Semmering Alp. The ordinary rate of travelling in Chile is 25 miles an
+hour, but the expresses occasionally run at the rate of 60 miles per hour.
+As the splendid pastures on either side are grazed by innumerable herds,
+some of which were constantly straying upon the line, the item for injury
+done to cattle used to assume serious proportions, owing to the negligence
+of the drivers, till the directors, under the advice of Mr. Evans, offered
+a premium of 30 dollars a quarter to any engine driver who should during
+that space avoid killing any of the cattle: a singular regulation, but
+which put a stop to the evil. The line is solidly constructed, but very
+simply equipped, the waiting-rooms at the different stations being
+entirely deficient in that luxury which the traveller is accustomed to on
+first-rate European lines. But it tells in favour of the dividend.<a name="FNanchor_113_113" id="FNanchor_113_113"></a><a href="#Footnote_113_113"
+class="fnanchor">[113]</a><!--322.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">310</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The splendid and substantially-built iron bridge thrown over the Maipú
+here, 1500 feet wide, at an elevation of 1822 feet above the level of the
+sea, was like everything used on the line, with the exception of the wood,
+imported from North America. Of the difficulty and expense attending
+land-transport in Chile, some idea may be formed from the fact that the
+freightage of one ton of goods from New York to Valparaiso, 10,000 miles
+by sea, is but £1 1<i>s.</i>, whereas the conveyance of the same quantity from
+Santiago to Valparaiso, only 100 miles, costs £7 7<i>s.</i>!!</p>
+
+<p>Although evening surprised us ere we returned to Santiago from Maipú, and
+a dense mist hung over the landscape quite precluding all views for the
+greatest part of the road, we were so fortunate, shortly before our
+arrival at the city, as to be favoured with a glimpse of the majestic
+range of the Cordillera, lit up by the declining rays of the sun, a
+spectacle resembling the sunset splendours of the Alps in Switzerland; but
+the novelty of the details of which, coupled with its suddenness and
+brevity of duration, greatly deepened the impression of awe and admiration
+with which we regarded it.</p>
+
+<p>At noon of the 30th of April we set out on our return to Valparaiso. On
+this occasion we availed ourselves of a different
+<!--323.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">311</a></span>kind
+of vehicle, an
+American mail-coach as it is termed, from its having been first organized
+by a North American, which admitted of our seeing a different range of
+country. In this journey we were fortunate enough to be accompanied by Mr.
+James Volckmann, a young German gentleman, who is an active colleague of
+the renowned geologist, Mr. Pissis, and has already himself contributed
+many valuable additions to our acquaintance with the geology of Chile. The
+coach stopping at Melepilla, the next station, a neat little town nestling
+on a level surface at the foot of a lovely valley, whence it was to
+proceed the following morning to the port, we took advantage of the
+opportunity to pay an <i>impromptu</i> visit to a Chilean family in the
+neighbourhood, to which we had introduction. We rode out accordingly to
+the <i>hacienda</i> of Las Esmeraldas, about two miles distant from Melepilla,
+where we were received like old friends of the hospitable family Lecaros.
+Most of the wealthy landowners of the country pass only a few months of
+each year in their splendid houses at Valparaiso or Santiago, and spend
+the rest of their time in affluent retirement upon their properties. The
+small, externally unsightly, mansion was furnished within with all that
+could minister to that genuine English notion of COMFORT; and the ladies,
+though the hour was so late that they could scarcely have expected any
+further visitors, received us in full Parisian toilette. This surprised us
+the more, inasmuch as the national costume is very much more graceful than
+that of Europe,&mdash;even an elderly female, dressed
+<!--324.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">312</a></span>in
+sombre-hued silk, and
+with a long black coif around the head, the left ribbon of which is turned
+over the right shoulder, having quite a unique, piquant, and attractive
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Even here the conversation took a political tone, and it speedily came to
+light that the stay of the ladies at Las Esmeraldas at the present
+inclement season was attributable less to any admiration of the beauties
+of nature than to some political disagreement; for the Chilean ladies,
+like all their sex of the Latin stock, delight in political
+demonstrations. However, they are mainly taken up with keeping the
+Ultramontane element, the influence of which is everywhere apparent,
+within the limits assigned it by the Constitution itself. The head of the
+family, Don José Antonio Lecaro, an excellent energetic old gentleman,
+told us a great deal about his property, of the improvements he had made
+and was still projecting, and we regretted that the advanced hour
+prevented our examining this well-managed <i>hacienda</i>, which is so large
+that the pasturage can maintain several thousand horned cattle and horses.
+Nevertheless, so far as regards numbers of farm-animals, it is probable
+that the proprietor of Las Esmeraldas is very far from being among the
+most extensive land-holders of Chile.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we adjourned to the elegant drawing-room, where time flew
+away in the most delightful manner with music and singing; the music,
+chiefly German, being selected, if we were not mistaken, quite as much
+through genuine appreciation of the great <i>maestros</i> whose works were
+chosen, as to do honour to the nationality of the
+guests.<!--325.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">313</a></span></p>
+
+<p>During the night we returned on horseback to Melepilla, and the following
+morning, 1st May, 1859, continued our journey to Valparaiso, where we
+arrived about four <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, full of the most delightful and varied memories
+of our trip.</p>
+
+<p>When we reached Valparaiso the frigate was ready to sail, but her
+departure was delayed, as our Commodore resolved to await the arrival of
+the next European mail, in case he should receive further instructions as
+to his route. In every social circle at this place, men hoped against hope
+that a European Congress would be convoked, which should devise a peaceful
+solution of existing differences. If, however, there was to be war, then
+amongst all, especially the Germans resident here, it was a foregone
+conclusion that Germany ought to make common cause with Austria. The
+disappointment was not long waited for&mdash;* * * *!</p>
+
+<p>The uncertainty of our stay did not admit of any more excursions being
+made to a distance, and the naturalists accordingly redoubled their
+activity in searching for subjects in the environs of the town. The
+Directors of the railroad from Valparaiso to Santiago, which, however, is
+as yet only completed as far as the little village of Guillota, were so
+kind as to invite the members of the Expedition to make free use of their
+line, and the chief engineer, Mr. Lloyd, had also issued instructions to
+the various station-masters to give all manner of facilities to the
+foreign guests, and assist them in their collections to the utmost of
+their power. Unfortunately we found no time to avail ourselves of this
+very friendly invitation,
+<!--326.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">314</a></span>and
+thus had to forego an excellent opportunity
+for examining the line itself, and studying its interesting geological
+features.</p>
+
+<p>We succeeded once in getting as far as Guillota, the Spa of Chile. This
+portion of the road, 30 miles in length, is much travelled over, the fares
+being 1, 2, and 3 dollars according to class, and the monthly receipts
+amount to from 20,000 to 25,000 dollars (£4200 to £5250).</p>
+
+<p>The little village of Guillota, lying in a valley laid out in orchards and
+vineyards, is of enormous extent; the <i>Calle larga</i>, or Long Street, being
+six English miles in length. The houses are usually one storey, very plain
+and unpretending but scrupulously clean. The stranger who wanders though
+Guillota, and becomes sensible of the filth and dust in the streets, and
+the entire absence of comfort within-doors, is apt to puzzle himself how
+the place came to be selected for a summer resort of the fashionable
+world, as indeed he may marvel how the Spanish navigators, to whom
+Valparaiso is indebted for its name, contrived to associate the idea of
+the Vale of Paradise with its sandy hills and glades bare of vegetation.
+Possibly the summer guests, who flock hither from October to March, may be
+sufficiently enthusiastic in their admiration of natural scenery, to feel
+themselves indemnified for discomfort within-doors by the charm of the
+surrounding landscape. The environs are exceedingly beautiful, the valley
+abounds in luxuriant vegetation and beautiful distant prospects, and from
+the little hill of Mañaca, 150 to 200 feet in height, on the
+<!--327.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">315</a></span>summit
+of
+which a large wooden cross was set up by missionary preachers in 1849,
+there is stretched at the feet of the beholder a magnificent picture of
+unrivalled interest and beauty, especially when the sun is near his
+setting, and lights up the magnificent peaks, from 3000 to 4000 feet in
+height, called, from their form resembling that of a bell, Campaña and
+Campañita. More probably, however, the visitors from the port are at that
+hour busily employed at the "green tables," where, at faro and roulette,
+enormous sums are frequently lost and won.</p>
+
+<p>One marked peculiarity, which it is impossible to avoid noticing, is the
+vast disproportion here between the sexes. One hardly ever sees any but
+ladies in the streets, or sitting elegantly attired on low stools in front
+of the open door, their hands busy with their work, their eyes watching
+the passers-by. The numerous hard-working male population is much more
+profitably employed in working at the city, rather than staying at home
+engaged in agriculture; whence it results that at Guillota, just as in
+some European fishing villages along our sea-coasts, the male portion of
+the household are often absent for weeks together, and the little hamlet
+has the appearance of being the head-quarters of a tribe of Amazons.</p>
+
+<p>From Guillota we went on to a large hacienda, about nine miles further,
+called La Calera, the property of a native of Bolivia. Part of this is
+planted with almond trees, but by far the larger portion is devoted to
+wine-growing. One of the
+<!--328.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">316</a></span><i>Mandadores</i>,
+or overseers; begged us to enter a
+large, handsome building where the process of wine-preparing was being
+carried on, and gave us some new wine, here called <i>Chicha</i>(pronounced
+Tchitcha), which tasted very sweet and palatable. The Chicha is used in
+enormous quantities in Chile, and is even sent abroad in large
+bottle-shaped skins, but, owing to this mode of keeping it, the wine,
+which is set down much as cider is in Normandy, acquires a villanous twang
+that is anything but agreeable.</p>
+
+<p>In Valparaiso we were so fortunate as to fall in with Mr. Kindermann, one
+of the founders of the German settlement of Valdivia, who has been long
+resident there, and has large landed property in that direction. We also
+made the acquaintance of Dr. Philippi, who, although attending to his
+duties as Professor of Natural History in the University of Santiago,
+finds time to take an active part in the colony of Valdivia. It would
+appear from the inquiries instituted by competent persons, that the main
+obstacle to the permanent success and extension of the German colony
+consists in the want of roads, and that the fertility of the soil
+justifies the most sanguine hopes, so soon as more ready means of
+communication are provided, that the numerous products raised by this
+industrious community will no longer want either a steady market or
+extensive buyers.</p>
+
+<p>Another German colony, which was organized with extensive privileges
+established at Punta Arenas in Magelhaen's Straits, and now numbers some
+150 colonists, not only
+<!--329.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">317</a></span>displays
+the most cheering signs of vitality, and
+that in a climate which has acquired, most unjustly however, an unenviable
+reputation, but promises to be of great importance both to Chile itself
+and to the vessels of all nations navigating the Straits of
+Magelhaen<a name="FNanchor_114_114" id="FNanchor_114_114"></a><a href="#Footnote_114_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a>. This will be more particularly the case, so soon as the
+scheme projected by certain Chilean patriots is realized, of which there
+is an early prospect, of placing a number of steamers upon the
+Magelhaen-Straits' line, for the purpose of towing vessels through.</p>
+
+<p>In order to form an adequate conception of the importance of this
+undertaking, both for Chile and all seafaring nations, it must be borne in
+mind, that by thus making the Straits available, vessels will not alone
+escape the storms of Cape Horn, but will effect a great saving in time.
+Maury estimates the time required by a vessel to pass from the eastern
+entrance of the Straits around Cape Horn to the western entrance at 25
+days. They could be towed through in from four to five days, thus saving
+some 20 days. The tonnage passing round Cape Horn to Valparaiso alone
+cannot be much short of 120,000 tons of merchandise, valued at about
+16,000,000 dollars (£3,200,000), so that the pecuniary returns realized by
+the saving of time in the voyages of these vessels promises to realize to
+the company a net profit of 257,776 dollars (£53,600)<a name="FNanchor_115_115" id="FNanchor_115_115"></a><a href="#Footnote_115_115"
+class="fnanchor">[115]</a>.<!--330.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">318</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Of course the estimate will become very much larger, if all the sailing
+vessels be included which pass annually round the Horn from E. to W.,
+amounting to some 500 in number, with a tonnage of 400,000, and cargoes
+valued at 53,000,000 dollars (£11,000,000). The projectors also propose to
+erect a lighthouse and telegraph station, both at Cape Virgin on the East,
+and Cape Pilar at the Western entrance, as also in Possession Bay, 40
+miles W. of Virgin's Cape, at the Eastern entrance, and to have the dépôt
+buildings for the requisite materials at the entrance of Smythe Channel,
+35 miles east of Cape Pilar. Four or five steamers of at least 500 tons
+are to perform the towing service, for which they propose to charge
+sailing vessels 1.50 dollars (6s. 3<i>d.</i>) per ton, less, in fact, than the
+charge for towing in China, Australia, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The carrying out of this scheme, which must exercise an incalculable
+influence on the commerce of the Pacific slope of the Indies, is mainly
+dependent on the disposition of the Chilean Government to guarantee a
+given interest, and accord certain facilities to the company which is to
+undertake so important and heavy an enterprise. Its requirements are by no
+means extravagant. During a period of fifteen years, it asks for an annual
+subvention of 125,000 dollars,
+<!--331.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">319</a></span>for
+the first five years,<a name="FNanchor_116_116" id="FNanchor_116_116"></a><a href="#Footnote_116_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a> during the
+next five years of 100,000 dollars, and in the last five years 75,000
+dollars, after which all aid from the State is to be withdrawn. Further,
+the company seeks to be secured in the exclusive right during those
+fifteen years of working the coal-fields,<a name="FNanchor_117_117" id="FNanchor_117_117"></a><a href="#Footnote_117_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> which are known to exist in
+the Straits, to be presented free of expense with the land required for
+the various buildings and stations, and, lastly, permission to fell wood
+all along Magelhaen's Straits, and in the divergent bays, gulfs, and
+channels, but on the condition that one half of the soil so reclaimed
+shall remain the property of the State, the other half to remain in
+perpetuity the property of the adventurers. From the day on which this
+project is ushered into existence by the munificence and under the
+auspices of the Chilean Government, a new era will commence for the
+shipping interest along the west coast of South America! The difficulty is
+in securing a monopoly of the Straits. At present any captain may run the
+Straits if he will, and this is occasionally done. An English man-of-war
+passed through in the spring of 1862.</p>
+
+<p>At last, on 8th May, the European mail came in, but failed to bring the
+letters we expected, giving us instead only news
+<!--332.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">320</a></span>of
+several months back,
+our bag having been sent to Lima instead of Valparaiso. However, the news
+received direct from Europe left no doubt that a war was imminent between
+France and Austria, and this circumstance at once determined our
+commander, like a true patriot, to return immediately home, so as to make
+his own services as well as those of his subordinates available in
+protecting our native land from the dangers impending over it. The
+original plan of sailing to Lima, and thence, after visiting the
+Galipagos, to Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, was under the prevailing
+circumstances totally abandoned. In a few days more the vessel was to sail
+for Gibraltar direct round Cape Horn.</p>
+
+<p>As this decision involved a sea-voyage of some 10,000 miles, which must
+naturally be almost barren of ethnographic or statistical interest, and as
+the arrival of the <i>Novara</i> at Gibraltar could scarcely be expected under
+from 80 to 90 days, the author of this narrative requested permission of
+the commander of the Expedition to devote the time required for the
+frigate to make her voyage, in prosecuting a journey overland to Lima and
+Panama, with the intention of catching at Aspinwall the next British royal
+mail steamer to Europe, and thus again fall in with the <i>Novara</i> at
+Gibraltar about the beginning of August. The paramount motive for this
+proposal was the wish expressed to dedicate all this time to visit Lima,
+Panama, and the intermediate ports, and thus to forward to the utmost the
+objects of the Imperial Expedition, even when it was in fact
+<!--333.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">321</a></span>homeward
+bound. It was also his intention to institute certain inquiries while
+residing in the capital of Peru, respecting the actual condition of those
+Tyrolese families, who, misled by alluring prospects of all sorts, had
+resolved on emigrating to Peru in 1851, and had since then sunk into a
+most wretched state, according to indirect accounts received of their
+unhappy case. Commodore Wüllerstorf, always ready to assist, whenever it
+is in his power, in promoting and advancing scientific aims, at once
+acceded to this request, conceiving that it was a deviation quite within
+the scope of his instructions for the Expedition, and compatible with the
+objects aimed at by its illustrious projector.</p>
+
+<p>Before the departure of the <i>Novara</i>, the Austrian Consul-General gave a
+splendid entertainment. This had been repeatedly postponed, as, under
+existing circumstances, it was not certain whether Chilean society could
+well be present. The intelligence, however, which a few days previous had
+been received from the Northern provinces as to the attitude of
+Government, the suppression of the insurrection, and the flight of the
+leaders, had produced a vehement reaction in the public mind, and, at
+least among governmental circles, had given hope of a happy solution.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly the ball came off, and very gay it was. The spacious and
+elegant residence of M. Flemmich (the head of the distinguished English
+firm of Huth, Grüning, &amp; Co.) was richly adorned with flowers in every
+apartment, and the whole brilliantly lit up, while a bevy of graceful
+ladies swept
+<!--334.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">322</a></span>through
+the salons, whose natural charms were enhanced by
+their agreeable geniality, not less than by an elegance of toilette such
+as Parisian salons themselves could not have surpassed.</p>
+
+<p>A few days before the <i>Novara</i> sailed, a merchantman dropped anchor in the
+roads, which on her voyage from Melbourne to Europe had, while running 11
+miles an hour, come into collision with an iceberg in 60° S. and 149° E.,
+by which she had lost bowsprit, foremast, and all her topmasts, besides
+carrying away her cutwater and figurehead, and damaging the hull, and, sad
+to relate, sacrificing the lives of sixteen persons! The spectacle
+presented by this mere ruin of a ship, as she ran in half dismasted under
+jury-rig, created profound emotion even among the seafaring portion of the
+community, which was still further deepened, when the full particulars of
+their sufferings were detailed by the passengers. The captain, fully
+expecting that a ship so seriously damaged must go to the bottom, formed
+the unworthy resolution of escaping in a boat with fifteen of the men. The
+whole perished, it is supposed, as nothing was ever heard of them, while
+the vessel, which owed her truly marvellous preservation to the fact that,
+having struck stem on, she had sprung no leak, though so terribly injured,
+was enabled to pursue her voyage to Valparaiso, where she arrived, the
+wind proving favourable, after a passage of 55 days.</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th May all was ready for the departure of the <i>Novara</i>, and the
+officer on duty only waited a favourable
+<!--335.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">323</a></span>breeze
+to weigh anchor and set
+sail. Unfortunately, however, none such sprung up, and when towards 7 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span>
+a gentle breeze at last rippled the water, it did not last long enough to
+enable the vessel to clear the roads. The captain of H.M.S. <i>Ganges</i> (80),
+who, as also Admiral Baines, the venerable Commander-in-chief of the
+British naval forces on the Pacific station, had already in a variety of
+ways cordially coöperated with and aided the Austrian Expedition, sent
+some of his boats to tow the frigate out of the roads, in which the French
+corvette <i>Constantine</i>, which had arrived the day before, politely
+assisted. Thus towed along by no less than 14 boats, the <i>Novara</i>
+succeeded in getting into the open ocean. Favoured with a gentle breeze
+from the northward, she was soon able to lie her course, and towards
+evening, when a rather fresh S.W. sprang up, she was rapidly leaving the
+hospitable shores of Chile.</p>
+
+<p>The Commodore thought it advisable to make an offing of from 100 to 200
+miles parallel with the coast, and to keep increasing his distance even
+against contrary winds, so as to permit of his rounding Terra del Fuego,
+running free before the S.W. winds, prevalent at that season off the Horn.</p>
+
+<p>The weather was from time to time heavy and unfavourable, besides being
+cold and rainy, but on the whole it was a very fair passage for the winter
+season. But few observations could be got, though there were enough to
+admit of keeping the ship on her course. Only once did it happen that no
+observations could be got for several days, till, during the
+<!--336.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">324</a></span>night
+of
+23rd May the sky suddenly cleared. No sooner, however, had the officer of
+the watch selected a star by which to calculate his position, than he
+found himself involved in no small perplexity. The Southern Cross and
+Centaur were close to the zenith, and when the seamen directed their
+wondering gaze to the magnificent aspect presented by the southern stellar
+hemisphere, they could with difficulty recognize the old familiar European
+constellations as they now shone forth along the northern horizon, with
+sadly diminished brilliancy.</p>
+
+<p>The further south the <i>Novara</i> ran, the more melancholy grew the aspect
+both of the sun and the moon. Fog, clouds, and rain obscured a great
+proportion of the feeble light left, and although the clearness of the
+night occasionally made some compensation, yet to sailors long accustomed
+to the warm, smiling tropical skies, they seemed doubly cold and gloomy.</p>
+
+<p>The frigate rolled heavily, her oscillations increasing the general
+discomfort, although the fetch of ocean was less than off the Cape of Good
+Hope. Impelled by favourable winds, the good ship rapidly neared the
+southernmost point of her voyage, and every one on board watched with
+ever-increasing interest the alterations in the natural phenomena of these
+inhospitable latitudes.</p>
+
+<p>Several days were lost in calms and easterly winds, and partly to catch
+the southerly breezes which might drive her N.E. into the zone of constant
+winds, partly for the purpose
+<!--337.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">325</a></span>of
+scientific investigation, the vessel was
+carried as far south as the parallel of 60°.</p>
+
+<p>On 28th May, the thermometer was observed to indicate a strongly-marked
+and speedy decline in the temperature of the water, whence it was
+conjectured that polar winds would be found following the course of the
+cold current, or else that icebergs were near. The ship's head was now
+laid for Terra del Fuego, the wind blowing very gently from the N.E., but
+a S. wind springing up later, she began to work merrily along. Of several
+ships which for some days had been in sight, steering the same course as
+the frigate, none had ventured so far south; they now were all left
+behind, having lost way by over-caution. Among these was the French
+corvette <i>Eurydice</i>, which left Valparaiso Roads two days before the
+<i>Novara</i>, and was overhauled on the 29th May.</p>
+
+<p>With the polar wind snow fell during the night; and when day broke, about
+9 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span>, the singular spectacle was presented of a ship all in
+white,&mdash;white masts, white yards, white cannon. This appearance was
+repeated the two following days only, but the weather remained for a much
+longer period cold and disagreeable. The lowest reading, however, of the
+thermometer only indicated 3° Celsius below freezing (26°.6 Fahr.).</p>
+
+<p>On 29th May, about noon, the <i>Novara</i> crossed the meridian of Cape Horn,
+and was once more in the Atlantic Ocean. Notwithstanding the uncertain
+conditions of wind and weather,
+<!--338.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">326</a></span>a
+variety of interesting observations
+were made during the passage of the ship round Cape Horn, and numbers of
+valuable results obtained for the benefit of navigators in those high
+latitudes. Thus, for example, the fallacy was established of the assertion
+of certain navigators that "the fluctuations of the barometer off Cape
+Horn did not depend on the state of wind and weather." In like manner by
+ascertaining the mean of a variety of collated data, it was found that the
+temperature of the surface of the ocean demands the most careful
+attention, inasmuch as the alterations in it from hour to hour may be
+relied on to indicate corresponding changes in the wind and weather.</p>
+
+<p>The low reading of the barometer off the Horn seems to be a sort of
+compensation for the great pressure of the air in what are known to seamen
+as "the Horse latitudes," and, in point of fact, the barometrical readings
+at 56° S. betray a drooping tendency, which corresponds with the movements
+of the sun, as the latter also does with that of the zone of greatest
+atmospheric pressure. Hence it is obvious that from this parallel the
+atmospheric pressure will increase as we advance to the Pole, and this law
+is farther confirmed by the prevailing winds further south. Hence, while
+we find north-west or strong west winds blowing off Cape Horn, at the
+South Shetland Islands, still further south, the prevailing winds are N.E.
+or E., thus producing contrary atmospheric currents, almost resembling
+chronic whirlwinds, and consequently that both north and south of the
+central zone, the
+<!--339.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">327</a></span>barometer
+will be found to indicate a greater
+atmospheric pressure.</p>
+
+<p>For this reason vessels intending to round the Horn from E. to W. usually
+keep further to the south than those sailing in the opposite direction. On
+the other hand, during the winter season of the southern hemisphere, the
+east wind must blow more frequently at the Cape itself, in consequence of
+the influence exercised by the zone of least atmospheric pressure, and the
+weather be less likely to prove stormy. And such is found in fact to be
+the case.</p>
+
+<p>Hitherto, with the exception of Cape Horn, so few observations have been
+made in high southern latitudes, that it is impossible to arrive at any
+definite conclusion, important as the subject is to science as well as in
+the interests of commerce, and which must exercise so much influence upon
+the whole system of atmospheric changes over the entire surface of the
+earth. To attain this object, an expedition consisting of but one ship
+cannot suffice. It would be necessary to employ several, each provided
+with instruments carefully compared, and which should sail simultaneously
+to the southern waters at definite distances from each other, and at given
+times make precisely similar observations and devote their entire
+attention to investigating the laws which regulate this puzzle to the
+scientific student.</p>
+
+<p>Under more favourable political auspices, a joint expedition by the
+various naval powers would be the best means of solving the problem, and a
+fleet of some ten or twelve ships
+<!--340.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">328</a></span>commencing
+upon a definite plan, might
+obtain results such as might hand down the scientific renown of our age
+and century to all future generations.</p>
+
+<p>While sailing in these southern latitudes, the Commodore hit upon the idea
+of ascertaining the increase of gravity as the poles were approached, by
+the comparison of simultaneous observations taken with the mercurial and
+Aneroid barometers. Both instruments, in fact, gave a regular rule for
+calculating the weight of the atmosphere at the points of observation,
+with this single difference, that the ordinary barometer gives the weight
+by the pressure of the air upon a column of mercury, representing the
+weight of a similar column of air; while in the Aneroid barometer, the
+weight of the atmosphere is measured by an exhausted receiver, which, in
+resisting this pressure, indicates the amount by the tension of a spring.</p>
+
+<p>The indications of the Aneroid are moreover independent of the influence
+of universal gravity and the disturbing conditions it introduces into the
+instrument, to which the column of mercury is of course subject. Assuming,
+for example, that the ordinary barometer and the Aneroid gave the same
+readings, the similarity will no longer exist at a given distance from the
+Equator&mdash;the Aneroid, owing to the elimination of the disturbing element
+of gravity, indicating an increased pressure of the column of air, whereas
+the ordinary barometer will continue to indicate the same pressure as at
+the Equator. The difference between the two readings will, however, be
+<!--341.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">329</a></span>directly
+proportionate to the amount of gravity thus got rid of, and is
+consequently susceptible of calculation. Although the data collected
+during the voyage for widely different purposes, and those now collected
+by means of the Aneroid, do not realize the anticipations that had been
+formed, to the length of utmost precision, the result has shown that much
+may be achieved in this direction by observations easily made in the
+course of a voyage even by ordinary navigators, such as would greatly
+benefit science; and captains of all grades, who in the course of their
+voyages have occasion to traverse these special latitudes, and are able to
+use good, reliable, thoroughly-tested instruments, might by a series of
+such observations add materially to our acquaintance with physical
+phenomena.<a name="FNanchor_118_118" id="FNanchor_118_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a></p>
+
+<p>The <i>Novara</i> sailed into the Atlantic with fair strong winds, and on 1st
+June was about the latitude of the Falklands,<a name="FNanchor_119_119" id="FNanchor_119_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a>
+<!--342.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">330</a></span>that
+interesting group
+of islands, which have belonged to England since 1842. The few colonists
+at present resident there, not exceeding some hundreds in all, are
+maintained here at the expense of the British Government, and trade in
+skins and salt provisions. However, the annual cost of keeping up the
+colony does not amount to above £5000. Should the project of cutting a
+canal across the Isthmus of Central America, which has been the dream of
+centuries, ever be realized, the Falklands will become one of the most
+solitary spots on the face of the globe, owing to the entire abandonment
+of the route round Cape Horn, and as such would become admirably adapted
+for a penal colony. Judging, however, from the information respecting the
+southern parts of South America furnished by Admiral Fitzroy, so well
+known in connection with meteorological science, the eastern side of Terra
+del Fuego presents much greater advantages for such a project, and we
+cannot but feel surprised that England has not already founded an
+establishment there, where so many advantages are obvious at a glance,
+especially those relating to navigation.</p>
+
+<p>From the Falkland latitude, the <i>Novara</i> steered nearly a great circle
+course, or, in other words, followed the shortest line of distance, to the
+point where she must pass through the "Horse latitudes," about 25° W. of
+Greenwich, and with favourable west winds, sometimes rather stormy, sped
+along at from 200 to 250 knots per diem on her homeward voyage. On 5th
+June, about 9 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span>, a sudden squall from W.N.W.
+<!--343.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">331</a></span>struck
+the ship about the
+latitude of the most northerly part of Patagonia, so violent that had not
+the sails been taken in with all despatch, the very masts must have been
+blown out of the vessel, or at all events have sustained serious injury.
+Notwithstanding her being short of upper sails, the frigate heeled over
+more at this time than at any other period throughout the voyage.</p>
+
+<p>On 7th and 8th June, the <i>Novara</i> encountered a severe tornado, about the
+latitude of the mouth of the La Plata. A violent wind, which blew from the
+N.N.E., on the 7th, hauled round by N. and N.N.W. to W.S.W., and reached
+its greatest power on the 8th, about 9 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span>, the wind being N.W. At this
+moment the motion of the ship was so great, and she laboured so heavily in
+the high short waves, that the boats on her lee quarter were in imminent
+danger of being swept overboard. By observations made it was found that
+she heeled over 38° to starboard and 12° to port, so that the entire
+amount of oscillation was 50°.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately one of the barometers got broke on this occasion; the
+officer, while observing it, being precipitated against it by a sudden
+roll of the ship. It was the most trustworthy instrument on board, and,
+albeit near the end of the voyage, it was not the less vexatious to have
+the series of admirable observations made with this instrument suddenly
+interrupted.</p>
+
+<p>The 11th June possessed an interest of its own for those on board the
+<i>Novara</i>, as on that day she crossed the course
+<!--344.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">332</a></span>which
+she had followed
+two years before, in sailing from Rio to the Cape of Good Hope. Thus the
+actual circumnavigation had been successfully completed, and at least the
+material portion of the undertaking happily achieved.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile the wind, though still always favourable, had abated greatly
+from its first strength, and each day saw the barometer steadily rising.
+Even the sea-birds, those constant attendants of vessels, so long as they
+are in the extra-tropical latitudes of the Southern Ocean, now gradually
+began to cease flitting around the ship, as she approached the hot zones.</p>
+
+<p>On 15th June, in 25° 40&#8242; S., by 25° 9&#8242; W., the ship reached the S.E.
+trades. The weather was divine; the deep blue sky above, the exquisite
+tints of the atmosphere and the ocean, and the calm beauty of the long
+full-moon nights, exercised a most marked and beneficial influence upon
+the spirits and bodily health of the crew. Huge whales disported about,
+"blowing," as it is termed, immense masses of water into the air, like so
+many springs leaping from the bosom of the deep, or rushing upwards till
+half of their immense bodies emerged vertically from the water, into which
+they slowly plunged once more with a tremendous splash, the whole surface
+of the sea boiling and undulating as they fell back, athwart which might
+be seen dolphins gambolling about, or cleaving the blue depths with
+unmatched velocity. The S.E. trade blew with unbroken regularity, usually
+in its normal direction, but occasionally hauling up a little towards
+N.E., till, as we
+<!--345.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">333</a></span>approached
+the Equator, it gradually blew steadily from
+the S.E.</p>
+
+<p>On 23rd June the Equator was reached and crossed for the sixth and last
+time in 26° 13&#8242; W. In 25 days the frigate had run in a direct line 3800
+nautical miles, or an average of 6&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>3</sub> knots an hour.</p>
+
+<p>The very strongly-marked westerly current which prevails near the Equator
+materially lengthened the voyage, its strength in 2° 39&#8242; N. and 26° 14&#8242; W.
+being such that while the ship made 213 knots in the 24 hours upon her
+direct course, she was carried within the same period no fewer than 65
+miles in a direction of W. by N.</p>
+
+<p>The S.E. trade remained as such as far as 4° 36&#8242; N., 25° 38&#8242; W., when
+fresh N.E. breezes were encountered, and stayed by the ship till she
+reached 9° 54&#8242; N. by 29° 42&#8242; W. She now had to make her way slowly forward
+through a belt of calms, rain-squalls, and occasional puffs of wind from
+W. and S.W., till, at length, on 2nd July, the wind came on to blow from
+N.N.E., in 11° 47&#8242; N., by 29° 29&#8242; W.</p>
+
+<p>The French corvette <i>Eurydice</i>, which had laid her course for St. Helena,
+had on that account kept more to the eastward, and had crossed the line in
+about 22° W., and had in consequence lost so much more way than the
+<i>Novara</i> that she took three days longer than our frigate to get from St.
+Helena to lat. 20° N., to which this other circumstance contributed, that
+the N.E. trade does not blow so strongly or so
+<!--346.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">334</a></span>steadily
+in the vicinity
+of the Cape de Verd Islands as a little further out.</p>
+
+<p>On 7th July, in 22° 58&#8242; N., 36° 51&#8242; W., the <i>Novara</i> reached the
+well-known Mar de Sargasso, a portion of the Atlantic Ocean, in which the
+current, setting from the coast of Africa, encounters a branch of the
+great gulf stream, and forms a basin of still water, in which is collected
+an immense mass of seaweed (<i>sargassum bacciferum</i>, etc.) which is
+propelled slowly forward in long ranks by the action of the wind.</p>
+
+<p>The 9th July was a day of mourning on board. One of the sailors, who for a
+year past had been ailing and almost constantly in sick bay, died, and was
+committed to the deep, the last victim during the voyage.</p>
+
+<p>Next day, in 37° 37&#8242; N., 39° 1&#8242; W., the N.E. trade began to draw to the
+eastward, and gradually became more favourable, but at the same time lost
+in strength, till on the 14th it failed entirely.</p>
+
+<p>Several ships now hove in sight, and as one of these by her course must
+obviously approach the frigate pretty close, it seemed a good opportunity
+to get news from Europe, which the voyagers had for 54 days been
+speculating upon with anxious hearts. Accordingly a boat was lowered from
+the frigate and sent to board the merchantman, which proved to be the brig
+<i>Hero</i>, Captain Williams. He had left Barcelona 50 days before, and was
+bound for New York. The captain accordingly was not in a position to
+satisfy the very natural curiosity of those on board the <i>Novara</i> as to
+the
+<!--347.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">335</a></span>turn
+affairs had taken in Europe, or to give them late intelligence
+of public events especially in Austria. A few half-torn newspaper leaves
+round some bottles of cognac was all that the most earnest wish to oblige
+could furbish up in the way of information. In the course of conversation
+with the captain, it was only casually elicited that war had broken out
+two months before. More than this the honest seaman did not know, feeling,
+in fact, much greater interest in securing a profitable freight for his
+ship than in the political state of Europe.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the frigate's boat had returned, the officer in charge was met
+with a storm of questions and inquiries. His reply was very
+unsatisfactory, and little consolatory. Among the fragments of papers
+there was little that was important, still less that could give
+satisfaction, and, as usually happens under such circumstances, precisely
+at the spot where some news of our own country had been printed, the leaf
+was torn across, and the rest missing. Thus the anticipations formed of
+obtaining intelligence from the merchantman which should allay the anxiety
+on board had not merely failed to do so, but had in fact increased it in
+intensity, and the excitement caused by this episode on the minds of all
+on board reached almost fever heat. One would far sooner have encountered
+a tempest than such uncertainty, especially if it could have driven the
+frigate more rapidly towards her goal!</p>
+
+<p>On the 19th July, at midnight, with favourable west winds
+<!--348.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">336</a></span>and
+a lovely
+moon, the <i>Novara</i> passed between Flores and Corvo, through the narrow
+channel of the Azores Islands&mdash;the first land that had been sighted since
+the frigate left the west coast of South America, 71 days before! The fact
+that it was hit so accurately, also furnished satisfactory proof, in a
+scientific point of view, that the seven chronometers in use on board,
+despite 27 months of constant handling under the most varying and
+frequently unfavourable conditions, were still in perfect order, and
+indicated with admirable accuracy the longitude of the ship.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately&mdash;a circumstance to be expected in such latitudes in the
+height of summer&mdash;the ship now lost entirely the favouring gales which
+hitherto had filled her sails, and sped her rapidly on her course. When
+not above a few hundred miles distant from Gibraltar, those on board had
+to toss about for a number of days in calms that seemed as though they
+would never cease. Anxiety was at its height.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_101_101" id="Footnote_101_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> In one single year (1854), the imports into Australia of
+Chilean grain amounted to £630,000. In a good year Chile produces
+2,500,000 fanegas (920,755 quarters) of wheat, 4,500,000 fanegas
+(1,855,054 quarters) of barley, and 180,000 fanegas (16,071 tons) of
+beans. The <i>fanega</i> varies in weight according to the article measured;
+thus a fanega of wheat is 165 lbs., of barley 155 lbs., and of beans 200
+lbs.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_102_102" id="Footnote_102_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> That ships in good holding ground and with sound tackle are
+in no great danger riding out even a heavy storm in the roads, is best
+proved by the fact, that in the inner harbour there is a floating dry dock
+in use throughout the year, which, notwithstanding the occasionally severe
+weather while we were there, had a three-masted ship, full-rigged, masted
+and tackled upon it, with repairs of all sorts going on upon her sides.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_103_103" id="Footnote_103_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> About 1<i>s.</i> 1<i>d.</i>; a dollar is about 4<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i>, and a
+dollar has 8 reals.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_104_104" id="Footnote_104_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> We must especially remark the large and valuable zoological
+collection with which our natural history stores were enriched by a German
+gentleman, Dr. C. Seget of Santiago de Chili. With similar liberality
+another gentleman, Mr. Friedrich Leybold, a Bavarian by birth, now
+resident in Santiago, where he practises as a chemist, presented the
+Expedition with several valuable geological and botanical specimens.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_105_105" id="Footnote_105_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> The charge for apartments of three persons (two sleeping
+and one drawing-room), including board, was 30 Spanish piastres = £6 6<i>s.</i>
+per diem!</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_106_106" id="Footnote_106_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> The Chilean Mint is entirely arranged on the French system,
+and is provided with French machinery.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_107_107" id="Footnote_107_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> "Historia fisica y politica de Chile, segun documentos
+adquiridos en esta Republica durante doze años de residencia en ella, y
+publicado bajo los auspicios del supremo Gobierno por Claudio Gay, &amp;c.,
+Paris, 1844, 8vo.;" besides two large quarto volumes, "Atlas de la
+historia fisica y politica de Chile."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_108_108" id="Footnote_108_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a> The results of the great attention bestowed on public
+instruction have not been inadequate, as is apparent from the latest
+statistics on the subject, according to which the average proportion of
+the inhabitants, who can read and write, is 100 out of every 561 of the
+male population, and 100 in 1095 of the females, or an average of 100 in
+every 828. In 1858, there were on the whole State 950 schools, attended by
+39,657 scholars (viz. 27,288 male and 12,369 female). There is, however, a
+difference in these two statements of 6 per cent. The proportion of
+females to males <i>attending school</i> is 45 to 100; of those able to read
+and write, of 51 females to 100 males.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_109_109" id="Footnote_109_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109_109"><span class="label">[109]</span></a> There are in the whole country 37 public and 12 private
+libraries (including in the latter only such as are really worthy of the
+name).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_110_110" id="Footnote_110_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110_110"><span class="label">[110]</span></a> See Gay's History of Chile, Zoology, vol. i, p. 161.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_111_111" id="Footnote_111_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111_111"><span class="label">[111]</span></a> The whole consumption of ice used in Valparaiso and
+Santiago is supplied by American ships, which take in their cargo at
+Boston, and sell it here at about 2&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub>d. per lb. It is cheaper to import
+the ice from America round the Horn than from the Andes, though the latter
+are only 50 or 60 miles distant, and though ice is found on these at
+certain seasons at an elevation of only 6000 feet.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_112_112" id="Footnote_112_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> Mr. Haidinger, who at the very first exerted himself to the
+utmost of his ability and patriotism to promote the objects of the
+<i>Novara</i> Expedition, was so thoughtfully kind as to provide the geologist
+attached to it with a number of copies of publications of the Imperial
+Institute, as well as a corresponding number of neat little specimens of
+tertiary petrifactions from the Vienna basin, for the purpose of
+presenting them to kindred institutes in different quarters of the globe.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_113_113" id="Footnote_113_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> The
+lines of road already in operation or projected
+throughout Chile are as follows:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p><i>a.</i> From Valparaiso to Santiago, 110 miles, constructed at the
+expense of the State, and estimated to cost $7,150,000
+(£2,860,000). This had been opened when we were there, as far as
+Guillota, 30 miles, but the whole was to be finished by 1862.
+</p>
+
+<p><i>b.</i> From Valparaiso to Talca (180 miles), and
+</p>
+
+<p><i>c.</i> From Port Caldera to Copiapó, the mining capital (50
+miles), both constructed by private companies. From Copiapó a
+tramway leads to Pabellar, whence there is a mule-road to the
+mines of Chanarullo (4400 feet above sea-level). Mr. Evans had
+invented a new description of locomotive, capable of climbing
+even to this elevated region. Lastly, a road is projected to
+unite Copiapó with the mining district of Tres Puntos.
+</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_114_114" id="Footnote_114_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> See a very interesting "Essay" upon Chile, published at
+Hamburg by Señor Vicente Perez-Rosales, Consul-General for Chile at that
+port.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_115_115" id="Footnote_115_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115_115"><span class="label">[115]</span></a> This estimate is founded on the following calculations:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left">120,000 tons at $40 per ton, comes to $4,800,000, the annual expenses of which, such as crew, insurance, &amp;c., and including interest for money invested, amounts to 30 per cent. for 20 days</td><td align="right">$80,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Further saving of interest and insurance on goods valued at $16,000,000 at 20 per cent. for 20 days</td><td align="right">177,776</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Total saving effected by vessels using the Straits of Magelhaen</td><td align="right">$257,776</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_116_116" id="Footnote_116_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116_116"><span class="label">[116]</span></a> The Steam-packet Company which now carries the mails twice
+a month from Valparaiso to the southern ports of Chile, receives an annual
+subsidy from Government of $50,000 (£10,500).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_117_117" id="Footnote_117_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117_117"><span class="label">[117]</span></a> According to the reports of Mr. George Schuthe, governor of
+the little colony in the Straits of Magelhaen, some very valuable
+coal-strata exist near Punta Arenas. These, although difficult of access,
+would, nevertheless, fetch a high price, considering the high price of
+coal in the harbours along the east coast of South America. In Buenos
+Ayres and Monte Video, 12 to 15 days' sail distant, the average price of
+coal is 12 dollars (£2 10<i>s.</i>) per ton.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_118_118" id="Footnote_118_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118_118"><span class="label">[118]</span></a> We cannot help stating here that we think it far from
+unimportant, that when employed to measure the altitude of prominent
+objects, the Aneroid may be made to supply widely different results from
+those of the ordinary barometer, as the elimination of gravity in the
+Aneroid readings remains as a constant element, and hence the difference
+between the two can only be rectified by due regard being had to this
+circumstance, when performing the requisite calculations.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_119_119" id="Footnote_119_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119_119"><span class="label">[119]</span></a> This group, between 51° and 53° S., and 57° and 62° W.,
+comprises, besides the two larger islands, 90 smaller islands, the
+superficial area of the whole being about 6000 square miles, or 3,840,000
+acres. The summer temperature is 69°.8 Fahr. and that of winter rarely
+falls below 30°.2 Fahr., so that the climate greatly resembles that of
+Scotland in many respects. The islands present a cheerless aspect; a
+rolling country with peat soil, covered with rank grasses, and intersected
+by low ranges of hills, alternating with marshy rivers and torrents. The
+lower part of the country is clay, slate, and sandstone, covered with
+turf, which is used for fuel. Tussock grass (<i>Dactylis cespitosa</i>) is the
+most common
+plant.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--349.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">337</a></span></p>
+
+<div style="position: absolute; left: 50%; margin-left: -340px;
+width: 680px; height: 452px; background-image: url('images/illu349.png');
+background-color: transparent;"><a name="illu349" id="illu349"></a>
+<span style="position: relative; top: -1em;">Station on the Panama Railway</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="icba" style="width: 680px; height: 452px;"></div>
+
+<h2 style="clear: none;"><a name="XXII" id="XXII"></a>XXII.</h2>
+
+<div class="c2" style="clear: none;">An Overland Journey from Valparaiso to Gibraltar, <i>viâ</i> the Isthmus of
+Panama.</div>
+
+<div class="c3" style="clear: none;"><span class="smcap">16th May To 1st August, 1859.</span></div>
+
+<div class="ChapDescr" style="clear: none;">
+Departure from
+Valparaiso.&mdash;Coquimbo.&mdash;Caldera.&mdash;Cobija.&mdash;Iquique.&mdash;Manufacture
+of saltpetre.&mdash;Arica.&mdash;Port d'Islay.&mdash;<i>Medanos</i>, or wandering
+sand-hills.&mdash;Chola.&mdash;Pisco.&mdash;The Chincha or Guano
+Islands.&mdash;Remarks respecting the Guano or Huanu
+beds.&mdash;Callao.&mdash;Lima.&mdash;Carrion crows, the principal
+street-scavengers.&mdash;Churches and
+Monasteries.&mdash;Hospitals.&mdash;Charitable institutions.&mdash;Medical
+College.&mdash;National Library.&mdash;Padre Vigil.&mdash;National Museum.&mdash;The
+Central Normal School.&mdash;Great lack of intellectual
+energy.&mdash;Ruins of Cajamarquilla.&mdash;Chorillos.&mdash;Temple to the Sun
+at Pachacamác.&mdash;River Rimac.&mdash;Amancaes.&mdash;The new
+prison.&mdash;Bull-fights.&mdash;State of society in Peru.&mdash;The <i>Coca</i>
+plant, and the latest scientific examination respecting its
+peculiar properties.&mdash;The <i>China</i>, or Peruvian-bark
+tree.&mdash;Departure from Lima.&mdash;Lambajeque.&mdash;Indian village of
+Iting.&mdash;Païta.&mdash;Island of La Plata.&mdash;Taboga Island.&mdash;Impression
+made by the intelligence of Humboldt's
+death.&mdash;Panama.&mdash;"Opposition" Line.&mdash;Immense traffic.&mdash;The
+Railway across the Isthmus.&mdash;Aspinwall.&mdash;Carthagena.&mdash;St.
+Thomas.&mdash;Voyage to Europe on board the R.M.S.
+<i>Magdalena</i>.&mdash;Falmouth.&mdash;Southampton.&mdash;London.&mdash;Rejoin the
+<i>Novara</i> at sea.&mdash;Arrival at Gibraltar.
+</div>
+
+<p>Five days after the departure of the <i>Novara</i>, I left the roads of
+Valparaiso on board the mail steamer <i>Callao</i>. The weather
+<!--350.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">338</a></span>was
+exceedingly unfavourable, the rain falling in torrents, while a heavy
+tumbling sea made the embarkation of the numerous passengers and their
+effects a process anything but agreeable. I have, therefore, the greater
+pleasure in expressing my gratitude for the courtesy of the Captain of
+H.M.S. <i>Ganges</i>, who sent his own gig to take me off to the steamer, and
+to the numerous friends, who despite the stormy weather had assembled on
+board to bid me a last farewell, and provide me with letters of
+introduction to the authorities and most influential persons of the more
+important of the localities I was about to visit. At 2 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> the shore bell
+sounded, a little boat made its appearance on the port side, pitching
+heavily in the swell, and a long thin figure stepped on deck. This proved
+to be Captain Stewart of the <i>Louisa</i>, whose acquaintance I had formed at
+the island of Tahiti, and who now, half breathless, handed me a small
+packet with the following endorsement,&mdash;"These are the extracts you
+requested from my journal, and which I promised to prepare for you on my
+first voyage from Norfolk Island to Pitcairn." They consisted in fact of
+those remarks upon the latest phase of the strange destiny of the Pitcairn
+Islanders, which have already appeared in a previous chapter. The worthy
+Captain had kept his word with true John Bull punctuality. A few moments
+more and the <i>Callao</i> was steaming out of Valparaiso Roads, on her voyage
+northwards.</p>
+
+<p>Although the boats of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company plying between
+Valparaiso, Callao de Lima, and Panama,
+<!--351.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">339</a></span>are
+tolerably large, clean, and
+elegantly fitted, yet the number of passengers for intermediate ports make
+them anything but a comfortable mode of travel. For, notwithstanding the
+high fares,<a name="FNanchor_120_120" id="FNanchor_120_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a> it is necessary to crowd three or four passengers into
+each state-room, which in the heat of the tropics is most inconvenient,
+and at times almost intolerable. Personally, however, I had no reason to
+complain on this score, as all the captains of the various steamers in
+which I journeyed north, so soon as my connection with the <i>Novara</i>
+Expedition was known, at once, with the most marked courtesy and
+attention, secured to me a state-room for my own exclusive use, and
+whenever we reached a port, placed their own boats at my disposal during
+our stay.</p>
+
+<p>The morning after we left Valparaiso, we reached Coquimbo, where, a few
+weeks before (24th April, 1859), a severe action had been fought between
+the Chilean troops and those of Pedro Gallo, the former proving
+victorious. Coquimbo is a small town of about 2000 souls, whose sole claim
+to importance is its proximity to some rich copper-mines. M. Longomasino,
+one of the many victims of the
+<!--352.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">340</a></span><i>coup
+d'état</i> of the second December, who,
+the reader will recollect, received permission to make the voyage from
+Tahiti to Valparaiso on board the <i>Novara</i>, was among our passengers; he
+left the steamer at Coquimbo, intending to go to the adjoining mining town
+of Serena (20,000 souls), where, through the kindness of friends, he had
+been invited to edit a political paper.</p>
+
+<p>Here I went on board the British corvette <i>Amethyst</i>, which just a year
+before had been lying alongside of the <i>Novara</i> in Singapore harbour, and
+was received by her excellent commander with a most cordial welcome. To my
+astonishment I found a number of civilians on board: refugees, who had
+taken an active part in the late insurrection, and who now, when all hope
+of success was over, sought an asylum on British soil, for such is the
+deck of an English man-of-war, and, thanks to British political
+proclivities, had been cordially received there.</p>
+
+<p>About 11 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> the same night we were off the insignificant little harbour
+of Huasco, and about nine next morning ran into Caldera, a dreary-looking
+little place of some 2000 inhabitants, built upon one of a succession of
+sand-slopes. There is not a trace of vegetation; no foliage, no shrubs, no
+patches of grass,&mdash;all around as far as the eye could reach was a
+cheerless waste of sand. Only extraordinary opportunities for money-making
+could have induced the inhabitants to settle in this desolate wilderness,
+deficient in the very first necessity of life&mdash;fresh water. Every drop of
+this most
+<!--353.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">341</a></span>important
+beverage has at present to be brought from 90 miles
+inland, so that a cask containing some 15 gallons costs 31 cents or 1<i>s.</i>
+4<i>d.</i> English. The charge for supplying water alone to 90 or 100 workmen
+amounts to 40 dollars, or £8 8<i>s.</i>, a week! At the time I visited it, the
+people were negotiating for the erection of a steam distilling apparatus,
+for procuring fresh water from the sea, at a less cost than was paid
+previously. From Caldera, a locomotive line of rail leads to the mining
+town of Copiapó, 71 miles inland, in the vicinity of which are rich mines
+of silver and copper. This enterprise has proved so remunerative, that,
+although its construction cost 2,500,000 dollars (£525,000 or about £7400
+a mile), the shareholders receive an annual dividend of 16 per cent.</p>
+
+<p>I visited the copper-smelting kilns, which belong to an English company,
+and produce annually from 1800 to 2000 tons of almost virgin copper (90 to
+96 per cent.), in ingots and pigs, as they are termed, an ingot weighing
+from 16 to 18 lbs avoirdupois. The ore, as at first found in the mines of
+Copiapó, has barely 18 to 36 per cent. of copper, and has to undergo six
+or seven smeltings before it becomes sufficiently pure to be sold at a
+profit in the markets of Europe. The smelting-furnace produces about seven
+tons of copper per diem, at a consumption of 60 tons of coal,<a name="FNanchor_121_121" id="FNanchor_121_121"></a><a href="#Footnote_121_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a> which
+is imported from
+<!--354.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">342</a></span>Swansea,
+partly from Pennsylvania, and is worth 12 to 15
+dollars per ton of 2240 lbs. The rate of wages at Caldera remains pretty
+steady at two to three dollars per diem, and this is the reason why the
+enterprise is less remunerative than would be the case if wages were
+lower.</p>
+
+<p>The total annual yield of the copper and silver mines of the department of
+Copiapó is worth about 14,000,000 dollars, and gives employment to from
+6000 to 7000 labourers, or one-third the entire population of the
+district.</p>
+
+<p>On 20th May we anchored off Cobija, the sole harbour possessed by Bolivia
+on the west coast, and with a population of 1000. The state of affairs in
+Bolivia affords a marked example of how closely the development of a
+country is connected with the fact of its possessing more or less of
+sea-coast. How great is the commerce, the. prosperity, and the
+civilization of Chile, a proportionally small strip of not over-fertile
+soil, but the entire extent of which is sea-coast, compared with the
+poverty and barbarism of the interior state of Bolivia, so admirably
+fitted by nature for raising all manner of valuable produce, but whose
+sole means of communication with the rest of the world is through one
+insignificant harbour!</p>
+
+<p>The same day we reached Iquique, the southernmost harbour of Peru, with a
+population of about 4000, and which quite recently has increased greatly
+in importance, owing to the trade in saltpetre, which is found in immense
+quantities all along this rainless coast, and of which 1,000,000
+hundredweight
+<!--355.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">343</a></span>(50,000
+tons) are exported annually to England, North
+America, and Germany, in which countries it is extensively and
+beneficially used for manure.<a name="FNanchor_122_122" id="FNanchor_122_122"></a><a href="#Footnote_122_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a> Here we found lying at anchor a large
+merchantman, the <i>Victorine</i> of Bordeaux, 3000 tons burthen, which was
+taking in a full cargo, exclusively, of this valuable product. The
+saltpetre is found between beds of clay from one to six feet below the
+surface, boiled in large vats to free it from impurities,<a name="FNanchor_123_123" id="FNanchor_123_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> and dried
+in the form of cakes, which are packed for shipment in sacks of 250 lbs.
+It is worth, if purified, 21 reals (about 11<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i>) per cwt. on the
+spot, and fetches £16 to £17 per ton in England. Upon a rough calculation,
+the quantity of saltpetre along the coast of Peru at an average breadth of
+30 miles amounts to 60,000,000 tons, enough to maintain the existing
+supply<a name="FNanchor_124_124" id="FNanchor_124_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a> for at least another thousand years. The rate of wages of the
+men engaged in the trade, owing to the scarcity of labour, is from two to
+three dollars per diem! The scarcity of water at Iquique is so great, that
+the town has to be supplied by means of a distilling apparatus, an
+undertaking the gross daily receipts of which are six hundred dollars! For
+the precious element has to be purchased not merely for men but
+<!--356.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">344</a></span>animals;
+the price, for example, for a male to drink <i>ad libitum</i> is one real,
+about 8&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub><i>d.</i></p>
+
+<p>Tincal, or Biborate of Soda, is also largely found all along the coast,
+but the export was long prohibited, the suspicious jealousy of the
+Peruvian Government seeking to obtain first of all conclusive evidence of
+the value of this natural product, and the best means of making it
+contribute to the State treasury. At present about 200 tons, worth from
+£16 to £20 per ton, are exported annually. As we lay at anchor off
+Iquique, numbers of natives shot about with arrow-like rapidity in their
+exceedingly primitive boats, made of seal-skins fastened together in
+canoe-fashion. To avoid overturns, these curious specimens of naval
+architecture have bladders attached on either side!</p>
+
+<p>The heat now began to be very perceptible. The bare, treeless, almost
+perpendicular sand-bluffs along the coast, impart to it a dreary aspect,
+which even the rocky chain immediately behind, rising some 2000 to 4000
+feet, scarcely succeeds in softening. A great number of the passengers,
+mostly Peruvians, indemnified themselves for the cheerless monotony of the
+prospect on deck, by intense devotion to the mysteries of the green table
+in the saloon. All through the day, till far on in the night, the painted
+pasteboard flew from hand to hand. The favourite game was Rocambor,
+something like Ombre, diversified with Monte and dice, and for very high
+sums. I saw ten condors (£21) laid upon a single card. A few elderly
+gentlemen sat regularly in a distant corner of the
+<!--357.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">345</a></span>saloon,
+where they
+played assiduously from nine in the morning till midnight without
+interruption. One wealthy Peruano, well known along this coast, in the
+course of a single voyage is said to have lost 80,000 dollars (£16,800)!!</p>
+
+<p>On 20th May we anchored in Arica, an elegant seaport of some 7000
+inhabitants, surrounded by beautiful luxuriant gardens, and which, though
+belonging to Peru, may be considered as the chief outlet for the produce
+of Northern Bolivia, since Tacna, the most important manufacturing town of
+that State, with a population of 12,000, is only nine English miles
+distant, lying at the foot of the Cordillera, while La Paz, the capital of
+the Republic, with a population of 75,000, is 288 miles distant, and is
+easiest reached from Arica. The political division of Bolivia is a crying
+injustice to that lovely country and its industrious population. The
+harbour of Arica belongs by natural position to Bolivia and not to Peru;
+commercial interests and general intercourse unite it far more intimately
+with Northern Bolivia than with Peru. The chief exports of Arica are
+silver, copper, alpaca wool, cinchona bark, chinchilla furs, cotton, and
+tin. There are also two steam flour-mills within the little town in full
+operation; the grain comes from the interior, and is shipped as flour to
+the various harbours along the coast. A railroad from Arica to Tacna
+greatly facilitates traffic and commerce, but further in the interior all
+intercourse is carried on by means of narrow mule-paths.<a name="FNanchor_125_125" id="FNanchor_125_125"></a><a href="#Footnote_125_125"
+class="fnanchor">[125]</a><!--358.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">346</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The houses, constructed for the most part of sun-dried bricks all along
+the coast of Peru, where rain is absolutely unknown, and even the
+dew-deposit is trifling, are flat, barely roofed in with thin strips of
+cane, and consequently when seen from the street have a very untidy
+appearance. Unfortunately these terrace-like roofs are likewise the sole
+receptacles for the refuse of the house, and any one who, in order to get
+a better view, ventures to ascend one of the adjoining dazzling white
+sand-heaps, will long remember the filthy but unique spectacle which
+greets his eye.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately outside of the suburb of Chimba, the desolate nature of the
+country comes conspicuously into view. I next walked to one of the nearest
+sand-hills, because I was assured that there were numerous graves of
+queens to be found there, as well as quantities of mummies. Owing to the
+extreme dryness of the atmosphere, the skulls of the dead which here lay
+scattered upon the surface of the soil, seemed as though they were so many
+anatomical preparations. Even some dead bodies of animals showed no
+symptoms of decomposition, but had been perfectly dried. The peculiarity
+of the meteorological conditions, the extreme dryness of the atmosphere,
+and the saline impregnation of the soil, have very much more to do with
+these marvellous antiseptic appearances than any indigenous skill in
+embalming the Indian corpses; since,
+<!--359.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">347</a></span>even
+now, when the brown
+Catholicized Peruvians have lost none of their old superstitions, though
+they have abandoned most of their former arts and customs, the dead
+committed to the earth without further preparation, present the same
+mummified appearance when disinterred. I took away with me the skull of an
+Indian, from the neighbourhood of Arica, which was remarkable for the
+singular malformation resulting from compression by circular bandages.</p>
+
+<p>This artificial disfigurement of the skull has its origin in the peculiar
+customs of several Indian races of both North and South America, of
+mechanically altering the form of the cranium in the new-born infant. Of
+the difference in point of beauty of the different Indian races along the
+west coast of North America, a clear indication is afforded by the profile
+of the head of a native of Puget Sound, Oregon territory, for which I am
+indebted to the kindness of Dr. Ried of Valparaiso, he having been
+presented with it in 1856, by the medical officer of an American
+man-of-war. Here, in strong contrast with the oblong form of the cranium
+of an Indian from the neighbourhood of Arica, it appears that the skull
+has been flattened transversely, by pressure between two boards.</p>
+
+<p>At first one is disposed to attribute the squeezed-in appearance of the
+head, remarked in different Indian races, here lengthened in an unsightly
+degree, there hideously flattened, to some freak of nature; but more
+accurate investigations leave no doubt that the deformity in question, in
+whatever form, is the result of pressure artificially applied, and that
+<!--360.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">348</a></span>this
+displacement of the brain is not confined to individuals, but is
+characteristic of entire tribes, yet without any sensible diminution of
+the intellectual faculties, or morbidity in their exercise.</p>
+
+<p>The valley of Azapa, three Spanish leagues (nine miles English) distant
+from Arica, is very fertile, and a good soil, but badly supplied with
+water. However, at an expense of a few millions of dollars, a
+communication might easily be established with the waters of the river
+Arica, the expense of which would be amply repaid by the increased
+productive power thus given to the valley. Sugar-cane, vintage-grape,
+oranges, pine-apples, olives, and vegetables of every description, could
+forthwith be raised, and advantageously disposed of at Arica.</p>
+
+<p>Among the Germans resident in Arica, we formed the acquaintance of M.
+Colmann, a merchant, and Consul for Chile, as also of Dr. Mittendorf, the
+latter of whom is physician to the Railway Company here. By the latter
+gentleman we were told that cuticular diseases, dysentery, and
+intermittent fevers were the most common ailments, but that on the whole
+the climate of Arica is healthy, and that many cases of illness were
+solely attributable to the irregular, licentious mode of life of the
+natives. Although it hardly ever rains, yet during the summer season
+(January to March), when the snows begin to melt in the interior, and
+tremendous falls of rain occur on the Cordillera, the beds of the rivers
+become torrents, wheeling along vast volumes of water to the sea, and
+partly
+<!--361.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">349</a></span>sinking
+into the soil, so that, at a depth of two or three feet,
+one comes upon water, or, at all events, moisture, while the surface
+remains burned to a cake. A little canalization of the river-bed, and
+damming up the water, so as to have a permanent reservoir, would not
+merely secure a better supply of water, but would most beneficially
+influence the salubrity of the neighbourhood. The river dries up entirely
+every year in the months of July and August, during which accordingly
+occur the largest number of cases of sickness, and it seems the more
+necessary that measures of some sort should be at once taken to control
+the water, as otherwise there is reason to fear that unless artificial
+dykes and dams be constructed, the bed of the river will gradually be
+sanded up, when the whole district will be worse off for water than ever;
+since with each successive year's floods, as they dash down from the
+mountains, a perceptible falling off in quantity has been remarked, so
+that whereas ten years ago the bed of the river was full for four or five
+months together, at present it is rarely full so long as two months in
+all.</p>
+
+<p>On 22nd May, we entered the little harbour of Port d'Islay, the access to
+which is very difficult. The settlement itself stands on a steep rock, 150
+feet high, descending almost perpendicularly into the sea on all sides, so
+that the only landing-place is a mole, which communicates with the village
+above by an iron ladder. The well-known traveller, Count Castelnau, who in
+the course of a scientific expedition through South America visited this
+port in 1848, prophesied a splendid
+<!--362.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">350</a></span>future
+for it; but I do not believe
+that its commerce has materially increased since then.</p>
+
+<p>The sole claim to consideration of Port d'Islay consists in its proximity
+to Arequipa, a city of 40,000 inhabitants, and the variety of valuable
+natural products which abound in that fertile section of country, from
+which, however, the port is separated by a sand-barren, 36 miles in width
+and 120 in length, the city of Arequipa itself being 7500 feet above the
+sea, at the foot of the volcano of the same name,<a name="FNanchor_126_126" id="FNanchor_126_126"></a><a href="#Footnote_126_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> and amid a
+magnificent scenery.</p>
+
+<p>The dreary waste between Port d'Islay and Arequipa is continually swept by
+drift sand, which, by constantly obstructing the road, renders travelling
+thither absolutely unsafe, and indeed frequently dangerous to life. For
+the unfortunate who misses his way amid these wastes is lost beyond all
+possibility of succour. The wandering sand-columns or <i>medanos</i>,<a name="FNanchor_127_127" id="FNanchor_127_127"></a><a href="#Footnote_127_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a>
+formed of drift sand, present a singular
+<!--363.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">351</a></span>appearance
+as they spin along
+before a S.E. wind, admirably described by Tschudi in his valuable
+Sketches of Travel in Peru. These extraordinary pillars, which constantly
+change both their form and position, and complete the perplexity of the
+traveller, are usually semi-circular, 8 or 10 feet high, and from 20 to 50
+feet wide, but occasionally they are seen 50 feet in height, when their
+diameter is about 150 feet. They are of most frequent occurrence in the
+hot season, when the parched sand obeys the slightest impulse of the
+atmosphere, whereas in winter, owing to the deposition of a fine
+penetrating dew (<i>garua</i>), which all along the coast of Peru supplies the
+place of rain, which is never seen, the sand increases in weight, and the
+basis of the column is solidified, so to speak, by the moisture absorbed.
+Between Port d'Islay and Arequipa, the <i>medanos</i> are first encountered
+about 18 miles inland, or nearly half-way across the sand-barren.</p>
+
+<p>In the dells near the harbour volcanic ashes are occasionally found at
+certain spots, whereas they are never discovered further inland, nor near
+the volcano of Arequipa, which since the memory of man has never been
+known to be in a state of activity, and whose beautiful cone, not unlike
+that of Ometepec in Nicaragua, seems to be densely wooded up to the very
+summit. Apparently these are the remains of former eruptions of a
+neighbouring volcano, which have
+<!--364.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">352</a></span>been
+borne towards the coast by the
+prevailing winds. The ashes themselves have no saline constituents, and
+are used by the natives in the manufacture of sun-dried clay-bricks
+(<i>adobes</i>), the quality of which they materially improve.</p>
+
+<p>We made an excursion to a churchyard in the vicinity of d'Islay, where the
+skulls of some half a hundred human beings lay exposed to view. They all
+seemed to have been bleached by exposure, and were in good preservation,
+so that on many might still be discovered heavy heads of hair. The eyes
+had shrivelled up into the skull, and were by no means gleaming and
+crystal-like as is alleged of those found in Indian graves, and offered
+for sale to strangers. These so-called "crystallized human eyes," of which
+an Italian curiosity dealer of Arica possessed one or two sacks-full,
+belong to a species of mollusca (<i>Loligo gigas</i>), and were used by the
+Indians to adorn their dead. To this circumstance must be attributed the
+great number that are to be found in the graves in the neighbourhood of
+Arica.</p>
+
+<p>We continued to coast along during the entire night. The number of
+passengers, especially of those on the "'tween decks," had again
+increased. Among the late arrivals was an Austrian, a Tyrolese, from
+Iquique, who was travelling into the interior of Peru. This man, seduced
+by dazzling promises, had in 1856 emigrated to Peru with 293 of his
+fellow-countrymen, and after two years of the most terrible hardships and
+privations, at last succeeded in finding employment at the salt mines of
+Iquique. He was now
+<!--365.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">353</a></span>earning
+3 dols. a day (12<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>), and was on his
+way to fetch his family away from the colony of Pozúzu, and taking them
+with him to the scene of his labours. That none of his countrymen did not
+follow him was, as he explained to us, in consequence of one of the
+colonists, "a half student," dissuading them from doing so, and himself
+leading them to try their luck at another spot, where unfortunately they
+had to battle with want in its severest form. I have rarely seen any man
+so excited and agitated at the sound of his native tongue as this hearty
+specimen of the sons of the Alps, when I addressed him "in good Austrian,"
+and shook him by the hand. The reader will find further on, in the account
+of my stay at Lima, a more full account of the Tyrolese colony at Pozúzu,
+its present condition and possible future.</p>
+
+<p>On 23rd May, at 6 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span>, the steamer anchored off Chala, which first
+attained the dignity of a seaport in 1857, being intended to facilitate
+intercourse and increase the trade with Cuzco. Chala is the nearest
+harbour to the ancient capital of the Incas, 240 miles distant. Though
+singularly ill-adapted for a port, being, in fact, nothing but an open
+roadstead, Chala bids fair to become a place of some importance, so soon
+as the country is at peace, and a good road is constructed hence to Cuzco,
+so as to be able to convey with dispatch the numerous valuable products of
+Cuzco. When we visited it, the little settlement, barely a year old, had
+212 inhabitants, in some thirty wooden huts extending along the
+<!--366.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">354</a></span>sandy
+shore. The chief exports are wool and copper, the latter being found at
+Chaipa and Atiquipa, nine miles N. of Chala.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, after passing the <i>Barracoon</i> of Pisco, a rather
+dangerous passage beset with low islands between Barraca Head (on
+Sangallan Island) and Huasco Head (a projecting headland of the mainland),
+we reached Pisco, also nothing but an open roadstead, the tremendous surf
+in which does not admit of ships approaching within two or three miles of
+the shore. Several years before a Mr. Wheelwright had commenced to
+construct a mole here, to project some hundreds of feet into the sea, so
+as to facilitate the loading and unloading of ships and the embarkation of
+passengers, but the works were still unfinished, and indeed would need to
+be very largely added to ere the object aimed at could possibly be
+obtained. On the declivity of Barraca Head sloping seaward are visible
+three marks in the form of crosses, which, according to tradition, were
+made in the sand by the pious monks of former centuries. Their size must
+indeed be colossal, since, though we passed from four to five miles off,
+the outlines of the three figures were plainly visible. Well-known as this
+phenomenon is to everybody, no one has ever had the curiosity to make an
+excursion thither from Pisco, so as to clear up the fact of their being
+actually the work of human hands, or, as seems more probable, simply
+columns of drift sand, like the <i>medanos</i> of Arica,
+<!--367.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">355</a></span>thrown
+into this
+fantastic shape by the caprice of some passing storm.</p>
+
+<p>The chief staple of cultivation at Pisco, and throughout the province, is
+the vine. I never tasted such delicate, juicy, luscious grapes as those I
+got there. They are chiefly used in the manufacture of the well-known
+"Pisco," a sort of "Aguardiente" (burning water, sc. brandy), the
+consumption of which is extraordinarily great. There were also fruits in
+most diverse profusion, chirimoyas (a species of anona), bananas,
+aguacales, mangoes, pine-apples, lemons, oranges, peaches, apples, pears,
+&amp;c., which are grown here of the most delicate description for the market
+of Lima.</p>
+
+<p>Pisco is the first point along the entire barren coast at which the
+traveller, since leaving Valparaiso, sees the shores covered once more
+with vegetation. With inexpressible relief the eye rests upon the green
+carpet which, on all sides, gleams forth, even between and among the
+houses. The place has about 3000 inhabitants, and possesses numerous
+churches, whose lofty belfries impart to it quite the appearance of a
+large town. About 45 miles inland, in a lovely and fertile valley, lies
+the large city of Ica, with which there is considerable traffic, and the
+chief product of which is also the grapevine. Ten English miles N. of
+Pisco, and, in fact, opposite the town, are the renowned Chincha or Guano
+Islands, and towards these our course was now directed. These are three
+small islands rising close to each other out of the bosom of the
+<!--368.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">356</a></span>sea,
+the
+most north-easterly of which has been the most stripped. Here also is the
+chief village, consisting of upwards of 100 wooden huts, inhabited by some
+200 to 250 persons. In 1858 there were some 2000 men living on the
+islands, while several hundred ships at a time would be lying at anchor in
+the harbour, loading with the valuable excretions of innumerable
+sea-fowls, of which the islands chiefly consist. When we visited them, the
+depredations had somewhat fallen off, the number of labourers was
+diminishing, and there were only a few vessels in the harbour.</p>
+
+<p>The islands have a melancholy, naked, barren look; the same substance
+which, in smaller quantity, contributes so powerfully to promote the
+productiveness of the soil, to which it is applied, here stifles all
+vegetation, by reason of its very abundance, and fails to show any trace
+of that fertilizing principle which lies concealed within it.</p>
+
+<p>The northern island is about 4200 feet long, and 1500 to 1800 feet wide.
+Its height is from 150 to 180 feet. The <i>Huanu</i>,<a name="FNanchor_128_128" id="FNanchor_128_128"></a><a href="#Footnote_128_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> consisting of the
+excrement of various descriptions of sea-birds, chiefly sea-mews,
+sea-ravens, divers, and <i>laridæ</i>, forms strata, sometimes of a
+greyish-brown, sometimes of a rusty red colour, which at some points
+attain a thickness of 120 feet. The huts of the settlers are erected on
+the very
+<!--369.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">357</a></span>guano
+beds. A handsome, comfortable hotel has latterly been
+added. All the necessaries of life, even drinking-water, have to be
+brought from the mainland, 14 miles distant. Living, consequently, is very
+expensive on the island, though there is anything but privation, or even
+lack of enjoyment. One of the inhabitants, a Swede, who has a small store
+on the island, observed to me, "We live as well and comfortably on the
+Chincha Islands as anywhere on the globe, and have occasionally even music
+and a dance!"</p>
+
+<p>In May, 1859, the population consisted of 50 Europeans, 50 Chinese, and
+250 Peruanos and Negroes. The majority were labourers, who were in great
+request as "<i>Mangueros</i>" or "<i>Abarrotadores</i>," and were busily engaged in
+excavating the indurated excrement, and transporting it to the various
+points for lading. The daily wages of the free labourers was 1 dollar 50
+cents (about 6<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i>) per diem; the Chinese, on the other hand,
+received only 5 dollars per month, and a daily ration of rice. One
+Peruvian planter, Domingo Elias, had imported at his own cost several
+hundred Chinese coolies, who, like those in the West Indies, were to pay
+in labour for the expense of their voyage. The remuneration given to these
+hardy sons of the Middle Empire was of the scantiest. While they had to
+work alongside of convicts, longer and harder than any other class of
+labourers, they only received one-tenth of the pay of the latter.</p>
+
+<p>The sanitary condition of the settlement was described to me as
+exceedingly favourable. The guano-getters contribute
+<!--370.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">358</a></span>the
+smallest
+contingent to the sick list, and even the strong, penetrating, and
+exceedingly disagreeable stench of the substance, impregnated as it is
+with ammonia, seems to have not the slightest prejudicial effect upon the
+lungs, pulmonary complaints hardly ever making their appearance among the
+workmen. So far from this being the case, it is even contended that
+persons suffering under affections of the lungs derive benefit in the
+first stage of the malady from a residence in the Huanu Islands, and find
+themselves in improved health on their return to the mainland.</p>
+
+<p>The centre island has been only partially excavated, but the works there
+have been discontinued. At present it is entirely uninhabited, though
+there are still visible on its summit a few wooden huts, which formerly
+sheltered the workmen, as also some of the "shoots" or slides used for
+facilitating the collection and shipment of the guano.</p>
+
+<p>The southernmost of the three islands is quite in its primitive state,
+never having been touched. No sign indicative of man's presence on it is
+anywhere visible.</p>
+
+<p>The earliest attempts to export guano to Europe as a manure were made in
+1832, but they proved so losing a speculation, that not till eight years
+later did the Peruvian mercantile house of Messrs. Quiros again direct
+attention to the importance of guano as an article of export, when the
+Government of Peru granted them, for a fixed sum, the exclusive privilege
+of exporting guano for six years. This gave an opportunity for
+instituting, on a sufficient scale, those experiments
+<!--371.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">359</a></span>which,
+it will be
+remembered, Mr. Meyer of Liverpool was making at that period, and which
+was followed by such surprising results.</p>
+
+<p>From March to October, 1841, 23 vessels conveyed 6125 tons of guano to
+England, Hamburg, Antwerp, and Bordeaux. In November of the same year, the
+English barque <i>Byron</i> brought to Peru the cheering intelligence that a
+ton of guano was selling in England for £28 per ton. This totally
+unexpected and startling result induced the Government, by a decree of
+17th November, to declare that the agreement with Messrs. Quiros was
+cancelled, and fresh offers for the privilege of shipping guano were
+invited from speculators.</p>
+
+<p>Since that period the exportation of this important manure has attained
+unprecedented dimensions in every part of the globe. Of late years it has
+reached the enormous amount of 500,000 tons from these islands alone, and
+the revenue to the Government has been 12,000,000 to 15,000,000 dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The contractors sell the guano in Europe for account of the Peruvian
+Government, and receive for it a commission fee of from 3&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> to 4&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> per
+cent. of the gross amount; for this they get, moreover, paid 5 per cent.
+of interest for outlays and pecuniary advances (pretty considerable) which
+they make to the native Government. The contracts are generally entered
+into for four years.</p>
+
+<p>A complete exploration and survey of the islands was made in 1853 by M. C.
+Faraguet, a French engineer. According to his report, which was pretty
+comprehensive, and drawn
+<!--372.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">360</a></span>up
+under the co-operation of several other
+scientific gentlemen, the quantity of guano on the northernmost island, in
+September, 1853, was 4,189,477 Peruvian tons (about 3,740,866 tons
+English); the middle island about 2,237,954 English tons, and the
+southernmost 5,072,032 English tons; or the entire cubical mass was at
+that period about 11,050,852 tons English. Assuming an average price, this
+would imply a money value of about £120,000,000. Since 1841, when the
+first considerable shipment was made, to 1861, there had been exported
+from the Chincha Islands 3,000,000 tons of guano, worth about 135,000,000
+dollars (£29,250,000).</p>
+
+<p>At first, owing to the enormous mass of guano left to accumulate
+undisturbed for centuries, the very natural error was made of reckoning
+the quantity deposited at too high an estimate, and the amount annually
+taken at too low a figure.<a name="FNanchor_129_129" id="FNanchor_129_129"></a><a href="#Footnote_129_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a> Hence it happened that a few native and
+many foreign writers have spoken of these islands as affording a supply
+which only centuries could exhaust. It is now, however, ascertained that,
+supposing the export proceeds at its present rate, only 25 to 30 years
+will elapse ere the entire strata of
+<!--373.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">361</a></span>excremental
+manure of all the three
+Chincha Islands will have been carried off!</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding ample supplies of guano have been discovered besides all
+along the west coast of South America, on uninhabited islands and
+promontories, and upwards of 7,000,000 tons of this valuable commodity
+been found on the islands south of Callao alone,<a name="FNanchor_130_130" id="FNanchor_130_130"></a><a href="#Footnote_130_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a> yet, even should
+this statement turn out correct, it would only supply the existing demand
+for other 10 or 15 years, while the formation of beds of guano must year
+after year become more and more confined to solitary, inaccessible islands
+of the Southern Ocean. For so soon as such beds of guano begin to be
+explored, they are quickly abandoned by the birds, which are gradually
+retreating from the islands along the coast and the usual channels of
+commerce.</p>
+
+<p>The Peruvian Government does not seem to realize the calamity impending
+over the country on the exhaustion of the guano beds, which would dry up
+one of its principal sources of revenue. Certainly it seems impossible to
+make a more unwise use of the immense sums which are flowing
+<!--374.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">362</a></span>into
+the
+State treasury. Nothing is done for making roads or railways so as to
+furnish intercourse with the fertile provinces of the interior, or to
+raise and encourage agriculture or commerce. Just as this revenue does not
+result from the energy or industrial activity of the people, it is
+expended without any object of utility to show for it. The Government
+pockets the dues as a monopoly, and expends the sums thus obtained in
+avaricious schemes of aggrandizement, or warlike expeditions against
+Ecuador and Bolivia, which keep the country in perpetual hot water, and
+only add to its burthens. The guano duties go in gunpowder! Lightly won,
+as lightly gone!</p>
+
+<p>During the nine days of our voyage between Valparaiso and Callao de Lima
+there were some musicians on board, who gave us a concert on deck every
+evening. As we left the Chincha Islands some frolicsome young Peruvians,
+disregarding the discord of the flute and violin, and unmindful of the
+timeless tuneless twanging of the two harps, got up a dance.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the night we ran into Callao harbour, and when I came on
+deck, in the cool of the morning, I found we were already lying at anchor
+in this spacious and secure port. The tradition that with a calm sea and a
+clear sky it is possible to perceive the ruins of the old town, with its
+houses and church-towers, which sank here suddenly in 1746 by the shock of
+an earthquake, has survived to the present day, and is told to every
+new-comer, who greedily swallows it down, though not one of the narrators
+has ever beheld the
+<!--375.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">363</a></span>marvel
+with his own eyes! Earthquakes, indeed, are by
+no means so frequent as at the beginning of the present century, when it
+was rare for a fortnight to elapse without at least one <i>temblore</i> or
+horizontal oscillation. The vertical shocks (<i>terra-motos</i>), the most
+dangerous kind of earthquake, have not occurred here since 1828. The
+season at which earthquakes most frequently occur are the months of March,
+April, and September, whence the latter month has received from the people
+the jocular name of "<i>Se tiembla!</i>" (it trembles!) One Peruvian who has
+long occupied himself with scientific observations has repeatedly
+witnessed that a magnet, freely suspended, regularly lost its attractive
+powers a few minutes before each shock, and that a piece of steel held by
+the magnetic force fell to the ground. If this be confirmed by a series of
+observations the magnet might ultimately become a sort of
+earthquake-monitor.</p>
+
+<p>The Callao of the present day is a dirty, ugly hole, with narrow streets,
+and low houses built principally of mud and cane, with flat roofs. Only a
+few of the houses of foreigners, erected out of hearing of the hubbub of
+the port, form a grateful exception. The entire population will be about
+20,000 souls.</p>
+
+<p>The most interesting building of the port is undoubtedly the new Custom
+House with 31 colossal magazines, each capable of containing six to eight
+entire ships' freights. I repeatedly heard complaints made of the
+slovenliness of the attendants, in consequence of which it frequently
+happened
+<!--376.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">364</a></span>that
+days elapsed ere goods, paid for, were delivered out of
+bond. The warehouse charge is very small, and consists chiefly of
+stamp-duties, which are imposed on the money paid for goods. The trade of
+Callao is apparently on the increase, and, considering the productiveness
+of the country, would be even greater, were internal order restored, when
+peace and confidence would follow in its train.</p>
+
+<p>As I had to prosecute my journey northwards by the next steamer, I
+hastened on to Lima, so as to satisfy my curiosity as to this the most
+important city of Peru in modern days. A few hours after my arrival in
+Callao, I found myself on the road to the "City of the Kings."<a name="FNanchor_131_131" id="FNanchor_131_131"></a><a href="#Footnote_131_131" class="fnanchor">[131]</a> Only a
+few years back the journey from Callao to Lima, though only six English
+miles, was an exceedingly arduous and even dangerous undertaking. The road
+lay through a shadeless desert of deep sand, between uncultivated fields
+and low scrubs, and was absolutely unsafe owing to attacks of robbers. Now
+it is a frequent excursion, a tolerably good railroad performing the
+distance in about half an hour.</p>
+
+<p>By the kindness of Mr. Wilhelm Brauns, the Consul-General of Hamburg, and
+head of the distinguished English house Huth, Grüning, and Co.,<a name="FNanchor_132_132" id="FNanchor_132_132"></a><a href="#Footnote_132_132" class="fnanchor">[132]</a> to
+whom I brought letters of
+<!--377.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">365</a></span>introduction,
+and who was most kindly in
+waiting for me. I was speedily and pleasantly conveyed from the station in
+Lima, to take up my quarters in his house till I took my leave. Owing to
+this fortunate event, I found myself unexpectedly brought into the very
+thick of the very best German society. Nowhere in the course of many years
+of travel in various countries, all over the globe, did I meet with more
+cordial hospitality, or a more delightful reception, than during my 19
+days' stay in the "City of the Kings."</p>
+
+<p>On our way from the station to the house of Mr. Brauns, I remarked that
+the houses in every part of the city that we passed were painted with
+variegated stripes, and heard, to my intense astonishment, that, in
+consequence of a recent decree of the Government, every householder in
+each quarter was ordered, with a view to facilitating the identification
+of their houses, to paint them of a colour corresponding with the coloured
+official plans of the city! Accordingly in one quarter all the houses were
+green, in another yellow, in a third white, in a fourth reddish, and in a
+fifth sky-blue. As in all Spanish American cities exposed to earthquakes,
+most of the houses in Lima also are but one storey high. The larger
+buildings are constructed of sun-dried bricks or fire clay, the smaller of
+cane set up double, with the space between filled up with clay, and the
+whole whitewashed. Their most singular feature is the flat roofs, which
+consist of a layer of
+<!--378.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">366</a></span>cane
+and straw mats, which, for better security,
+occasionally have a coating of clay. Thus an open space (<i>Azotea</i>),
+surrounded by balustrades, is secured, which is used as a playground by
+children, and serves as a promenade for the grown-up portion of the
+community. Some of the windows communicate with the roof by a sort of
+trap-door, which instead of sashes of glass has shutters of wood, which
+communicate with the rooms beneath by a long cord, so that they can be
+opened or shut from below at pleasure. Many of the chambers in the
+interior of the house get light and air solely through these apertures
+(called <i>Ventana de Teatinas</i>, because first introduced by the Theatine
+monks), while windows properly so-called are less numerous, and when
+looking towards the street are usually provided with large, broad,
+sometimes richly-gilt iron shutters. We saw these curious cords for
+opening and shutting the trap-doors in the roof hanging down in the middle
+of even elegantly-furnished apartments, and not even the circumstance of
+being made of silk prevented their having a peculiar and ungraceful
+effect.</p>
+
+<p>The mode of constructing the houses, together with the elegant
+ornamentation of the open courts (<i>patìo</i>) of the interior, speedily
+remind the stranger that he is in a place where rain (at least according
+to Northern ideas) is an unknown phenomenon, since one single, even
+down-pour must inevitably do immense damage in the Lima of the present
+day. During the winter months, however, as they are called, viz. June to
+November, fogs (<i>garuas</i>) are very frequent, which, albeit light,
+<!--379.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">367</a></span>are
+sufficiently penetrating thoroughly to soak the pedestrian or horseman who
+happens to be surprised by them. I have myself repeatedly experienced in
+Lima fogs of such density, that it was quite practicable to count each
+separate drop. During these winter months, fine, clear days free of all
+cloud are comparatively rare; but the statement one occasionally hears,
+that for five months together the sun is invisible in Lima, is an
+exaggeration. The temperature of Lima is much lower than we could expect
+from a city within 12 degrees of the Equator, and seems to be affected
+principally by the proximity of the eternal snows of the Andes, and the
+prevailing atmospheric currents. The thermometer never rises higher than
+85°.8 Fahr., nor falls below 68°.2 Fahr. The average temperature during
+the hot season is 77°, and during the cold 63°.5 Fahr. Such a climate
+renders fires superfluous, and it is more habit than necessity that
+induces some Spanish families to carry about copper or iron pans
+(<i>Brasero</i>) filled with live coal, with which to warm their hands or feet.</p>
+
+<p>The exteriors and internal equipments of the dwellings are very simple and
+devoid of ornament, only a few of the older buildings, such, for instance,
+as the house of Torre Tagle, near San Pedro, forming the exception. Among
+the architectural decorations, which preserve to the present day the
+tradition of the glories of the Peruvian kingdom, one may marvel at
+majestic designs and beautiful mosaics, which even in their ruin tell of
+the magnificent luxury that was once indulged in
+here.<!--380.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">368</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The streets are wide and tolerably regular, but the absence of gutters and
+the wretched foundation of the roadway prevent their being used by
+carriages or horsemen, or by pedestrians even more than they can help. The
+open ditches at either side are full of filth and animal impurities, which
+are continually being thrown in, and but for the services of numerous
+carrion crows (<i>cathartes f&oelig;tens</i>), who perform the duties of
+scavengers, Lima, owing to the supineness of the native authorities, would
+be one of the filthiest and most unhealthy cities in South America. But
+the <i>gallinazos</i>, as these black-headed birds are called by the natives,
+although lazy and unwieldy, nevertheless are in such immense numbers here,
+that they suffice to keep the streets comparatively free from putrescent
+odours. Everywhere, even in the thick of places of public resort, one sees
+these birds, which no one injures on account of their usefulness, and
+which even the rising generation never think of disturbing in their
+disgusting avocations, hopping about upon the bare ground, and gorging
+themselves on the garbage around.</p>
+
+<p>One of the greatest improvements to the city is its almost universal
+illumination by gas, which in the evening imparts a peculiar charm to the
+streets and fashionable shops of Lima, and enables them, in this
+particular at least, to vie with those of the capitals of Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The largest buildings in Lima are, as we might expect from a country
+conquered and colonized by Spaniards, the churches and monasteries, of
+which there are in this capital
+<!--381.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">369</a></span>no
+fewer than eighty. Many of these
+Spanish memorials, of a religious epoch more bigoted than sincere, are at
+present decayed, and even those which are still preserved in something
+like good order fail to charm the eye by any graces of architecture or
+majestic simplicity in their interior fittings up. The Cathedral even,
+which takes up almost the entire east side of the chief square, is no
+exception to this rule, and, though it was 90 years in erection, is after
+all a very indifferent edifice. The interior is lofty and spacious, but
+owing to the choir having its proportions curtailed by a wide altar in the
+midst, one perceives on entering the church only the smaller half, so that
+the impression is destroyed, which, but for this interposed erection,
+would undoubtedly be made by the high altar, richly overlaid with gold and
+silver, seen through the vista of the entire building. The ornaments, the
+sacred vessels, and censers used in performing mass are exceedingly rich
+and valuable, but are too much overlaid to please an æsthetic taste. In
+the catacombs of the Cathedral repose the remains of Francisco Pizarro.
+Few strangers omit to visit this spot, and usually feel as much surprised
+as pleased at finding offered them for sale by the sacristan, various
+sorts of relics of the renowned conqueror of Peru, though all cannot hope
+to be so fortunate as an English lady at Lima, who informed me with all
+gravity that she had purchased from a guide a slipper taken from the
+coffin of Pizarro. Should this mania for relics on the part of visitors,
+and readiness to humour it on the part of vergers, continue
+<!--382.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">370</a></span>unchecked,
+there will remain ere long in the catacombs only an empty shell, in which
+once lay the celebrated Conquistador. Perhaps, though, the speculative
+sacristan contents himself with gratifying the wishes of curiosity-loving
+visitants, by means similar to those of the artful cicerone who
+accompanies the enthusiastic stranger in his rambles among the ruins of
+classic antiquity.</p>
+
+<p>The monastery of San Francisco is more worth notice for its immense
+extent, which equals in size many an old imperial walled city of Suabia,
+than for elegance of style or tasteful artistic interior. The façade,
+painted in various colours, and overlaid with ornament, resembles by far
+more a Buddha temple than a Roman Catholic church. The corridors are the
+finest part of the building, their wooden ceilings being very richly
+carved. On all the walls of the passages are suspended drawings
+illustrative of the lives of various holy men, which, however, singular to
+say, are hung with their faces to the wall, and are only turned round on
+appointed festivals to charm the eyes of believers!</p>
+
+<p>The church is very roomy within, but quite bare of ornament. The sacristan
+with evident pride directed our attention to San Benito, a "black" saint,
+who was held in high esteem by the negroes, probably on account of his
+colour. Quite close to the monastery is the "Casa de Ejercicios," whither
+the monks repair at certain periods of the year to perform the prescribed
+religious exercises. The cells here have a more comfortless look than in
+the cloister proper. A
+<!--383.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">371</a></span>bed-frame
+with a skin stretched upon it, a hard
+stool, a plain table, a crucifix, and a human skull, comprise the entire
+inventory. The latter, the cranium of a departed brother, was covered with
+numerous aids to religious meditation, some written, some carved on the
+substance of the bone.</p>
+
+<p>The lay-brother who escorted us round had not long been a denizen of this
+gloomy monastic abode. Though still very young, he was leaving behind him
+a tolerably enlarged experience of the world. Starting as a gold-digger in
+California, he became a gambler and speculator, when he quickly lost all
+he had so laboriously wrested from the soil, and returned to Lima, where,
+more for the sake of change and comfort than for any special vocation or
+imperious spiritual necessity, he had entered the order of Franciscans.
+His temperament being much more that of a man of the world than a monk, he
+must have felt himself sorely hampered by the restrictions of monastrism,
+were it not for the lax morality which is the standard of convent life in
+the capital of Peru; but the monk's cowl is in Lima not only the attire of
+humility and resignation, it is likewise the cloak for all manner of
+licentiousness and hypocrisy&mdash;the "<i>surtout</i>" which conceals many a lapse
+from virtue!</p>
+
+<p>The monastery of San Pedro was the wealthiest in Lima, so long as it
+remained the property of the Jesuits. When, in 1773, the order went forth
+for the suppression of the Order throughout South America, it was not
+executed without the Spanish viceroy's cherishing certain secret hopes of
+obtaining
+<!--384.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">372</a></span>large
+riches. The Jesuits, however, on this occasion vindicated
+their reputation for subtlety, which has become proverbial among mankind.
+When the inventory was taken, nothing but empty boxes were to be found,
+and the most strict investigations and inquiries led to no more favourable
+result.</p>
+
+<p>Among the hospitals which we visited, that of San Andres deserves foremost
+notice for its size and comprehensiveness. It has room for 600 patients,
+who are tended by 50 <i>S&oelig;urs de la Charité</i>, the majority of whom are
+French. The yellow fever, which, introduced in 1852 by immigrants,
+penetrated deep into the interior, though of a milder type, had of late
+carried off numerous victims, and indeed had seriously weakened the
+hygienic good name<a name="FNanchor_133_133" id="FNanchor_133_133"></a><a href="#Footnote_133_133" class="fnanchor">[133]</a> of Lima; the small-pox also had annually committed
+fearful ravages; for vaccination is not made imperative by law, and
+inoculation is therefore neglected. Besides the hospital of St. Andrew,
+there are others for female patients, for the military, for incurables and
+imbeciles, an asylum for orphans,<a name="FNanchor_134_134" id="FNanchor_134_134"></a><a href="#Footnote_134_134" class="fnanchor">[134]</a> and one for foundlings.<a name="FNanchor_135_135" id="FNanchor_135_135"></a><a href="#Footnote_135_135"
+class="fnanchor">[135]</a><!--385.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">373</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The best managed hospital apparently is that of Santa Anna, the wards of
+which are roomy, light, and airy, and make up about 350 beds. On the other
+hand, a portion of the above hospital set apart for those mentally
+afflicted, as also the regular Lunatic Asylum (<i>casa de Locos</i>), were in a
+state of filth and neglect, that are a positive disgrace to the present
+century. It is, in fact, a singular consideration that in every quarter of
+the globe men have only now begun to bethink them of their duties to those
+unhappy fellow-creatures, whose wretched lot should have commanded their
+most active sympathies! The reform of hospitals, and even of prisons and
+penitentiaries, had long been carried out in Europe, before asylums
+especially designed for the treatment of lunatics were projected. I must
+not, however, omit to add, in justice to the philanthropic society
+(<i>Sociadad de Beneficiencia</i>), to whose management the whole of the
+hospitals and poor-houses of the capital are intrusted, that a new Lunatic
+Asylum was in course of construction, the cost of which will amount to
+85,000 dollars (about £17,800).</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Hospital de los Locos</i> (Hospital for the Insane) in the Cercado is
+all on the ground-floor, with chambers used at once for sitting-room,
+dining-room, and bed-chamber, but with accommodation for about 200
+patients. Twenty of the cells are set apart exclusively for refractory
+patients. The institution is in charge of Dr. Ulloa, one of the most
+skilful
+<!--386.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">374</a></span>of
+the native physicians, who studied both in France and England.
+The patients are tended by the Grey Sisterhood, which has only recently
+reached the country.</p>
+
+<p>The old university buildings, on what formerly was called the Square of
+the Inquisition, now named Independence Square, are at present only used
+for festivities, examinations, conferring of degrees, &amp;c. &amp;c., while the
+different lectures are read in various buildings. I visited the School of
+Medicine, of which at that time Dr. Cajetano Herredia was rector, a
+gentleman more respectable for his zealous discharge of duty than by his
+scientific attainments. There are some good lecture-rooms, a chemical
+laboratory, a small museum, consisting mainly of pathological specimens,
+and a very fair library, which boasts several really valuable and
+little-known prints and books, especially such as relate to the history of
+Peru. One of the Professors, Don Antonio Raimondi, a Neapolitan by birth,
+bids fair to raise the reputation of the School of Medicine of Lima by his
+extensive knowledge and excellent mode of instruction. This gentleman
+teaches several branches of Natural History, and, during the short period
+he has been in Lima, has already given practical proof of his activity in
+a variety of fields.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately Professor Raimondi, with a number of his pupils, was absent
+on an excursion for practical scientific instruction, so that I was
+deprived of the opportunity of making his personal acquaintance. In his
+studio I saw two very remarkable skulls of Indians, which, owing to
+artificial pressure,
+<!--387.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">375</a></span>had
+assumed a most singular form, one of which had
+belonged to an Indian of Cuzco, the other to a native of the Chincha
+tribe, who reside between Pisco and Cañete. I was also shown on the same
+occasion a female skull in such excellent preservation, that one could
+still easily perceive the expression of the face. This was the skull of a
+half-breed Indian woman, named Maria Palacel, aged 25, who had died in the
+hospital of Santa Anna, 27th Sept. 1856, of dysentery, and on 1st March,
+1859, nearly two and a half years later, had been disinterred in a state
+of complete preservation. Nature had in this case taken on herself the
+process of embalming, and had, owing to the dryness of the atmosphere, and
+the quantity of saline matter in the soil, secured results which in Europe
+could only have been obtained artificially and at a considerable expense.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining the Escuela de Medecina is the National Library, a large
+building containing some 30,000 volumes, treating of every department of
+human knowledge, but which, owing to want of means, has of late years
+received hardly any accession. The librarian is Don Francisco de Paula
+Vigil, a highly intelligent and liberal-minded priest and man of the
+world, who had been excommunicated by Pio Nono on account of his learned
+work, "Defence of the Principles of Secular Authority against the
+Pretensions of the Holy See." Nothing daunted by the fulmination of this
+penalty, the excellent old gentleman is prosecuting his researches yet
+farther, and is energetically defending his principles; and what
+<!--388.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">376</a></span>is
+still
+more surprising, he has anything but fallen off in public estimation in
+consequence. This is due to the fact that, unlike the female population,
+the Peruvians are very tolerant in religious matters, and rather averse
+from those pre-disposed to spiritual matters, whence there results the
+very small influence of the Peruvian clergy, everywhere visible, and the
+obstinate virulent enmity with which also, since the Spanish yoke was cast
+off, the priestly party oppose the progress of liberal ideas. This feeling
+is moreover powerfully aided by the ghastly testimony of history, that it
+was the monks who first introduced the rack and the Inquisition into the
+country.</p>
+
+<p>Father Vigil received me with much cordiality, and we had a long talk upon
+a variety of subjects. At last it turned upon his own well-known work, and
+the painful position in which he felt himself with respect to the See of
+Rome. This was the most interesting portion of our conversation. "It is
+not Catholicism that has made the majority of Catholic nations lag so
+woefully in the career of progress," exclaimed the venerable priest, "but
+that which Catholicism has suffered to be mixed up with it,&mdash;the
+Inquisition and Monasticism. It is marriage and labour that make
+individuals moral and useful, and nations great and powerful. Human
+society can get on very well without monks or nuns, but not without
+morals, not without matrimony and labour."</p>
+
+<p>Had I not transcribed these words almost at the moment they were spoken, I
+should hardly have dared to repeat them
+<!--389.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">377</a></span>here,
+for I durst not have
+trusted to my memory, that a Spanish American priest, should have made
+such a remark in the "city of the Three Kings." These revelations, which
+are far from being solitary, but find a responsive echo in the bosoms of a
+portion at least of the male population of the capital, are highly
+important in arriving at a conclusion respecting the actual religious
+sentiment of the Peruvian Republic, and are very marked indications that
+an immense movement is likewise preparing in the Catholic Church on the
+further side of the Andes; and that Peru also has found its "Father
+Passaglia." Nay, it would not surprise me in the least, should South
+America, which for upwards of three centuries has been dumbly obeying the
+behests of spiritual intolerance, suddenly emit letters and propositions
+which would amount to a virtual separation from the Roman Catholic Church!
+It is but a few years since Catholic priests in the Legislative Assemblies
+of Nicaragua and Honduras recorded their votes in favour of repealing the
+ordinance of celibacy, and from their pulpits harangued their flocks on
+the advantages of revolutionary insurrection!</p>
+
+<p>In a wing of the Library buildings is the National Museum, which, however,
+merely fills two moderate-sized apartments. The Natural History collection
+is in such a wretched neglected state that it is in imminent danger, the
+ornithological department especially, of being entirely eaten up by
+insects.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the most valuable are some Peruvian antiquities, such as weapons,
+mummies, and what are called <i>Huacos</i>,
+<!--390.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">378</a></span>earthen
+jars, pots, and other
+utensils from ancient Indian graves. To the historical student the
+portraits of the whole of the Viceroys and Governors of Peru, which are
+suspended on the walls of the first apartment in chronological order, will
+prove extremely interesting. The finest head of the series, the one which
+most clearly tells of manly vigour, acuteness, and energy, is that of
+Francisco Pizarro, the natural son of a Spanish nobleman, who tended swine
+in his boyhood, and ended his life as Viceroy of Peru, having been slain
+by an assassin in the 64th year of his age.</p>
+
+<p>Of the educational institutions, the only one deserving special remark is
+the "Escuela Normal Central" (Central Normal School), established by
+Government, at an expense of 160,000 dollars (£33,600), and opened in
+1859. Its object is to provide suitable school instruction for industrious
+children of poor or aged parents; but hitherto the prefects of the
+provinces have, by protection, presented almost exclusively children of
+persons of means and position, and sent them on to the capital. Owing to
+the great want of good schools hitherto, it happens that every one crowds
+towards this new institute, which seems to promise to its pupils a more
+complete education and better training than any other. The number for
+which it was destined was 40 boarders and 200 day-scholars, the former of
+whom are well taken care of.</p>
+
+<p>The system of education pursued is the Lancasterian, and is carried out by
+five professors. The estimated annual expenditure is about 20,000 dollars.
+One of the directors, Mr.
+<!--391.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">379</a></span>J.
+C. Braun, a German by birth, who not long
+before had come to Lima to settle, and taught Natural Philosophy and
+Chemistry, accompanied me throughout the extensive building, and specially
+pointed out a class-room comfortably and even elegantly fitted up, as also
+a small museum of Natural History, with an excellent geological
+collection, and a small library attached to it. Singularly enough, the
+latter comprises a great number of school-books in much request among
+Protestant pedagogues. Apparently an order had been sent, without
+specifying any particular writers, to purchase good school-books at some
+German publishing-house, and now the Catholic youth of bigoted Lima is
+taught from the works of Protestant teachers! Various surveys and maps
+covered the walls of this class-room, all bearing evidence of their German
+origin in the names of publishers and places, most of them having been
+sent out from the distinguished house of Justus Perthes in Gotha.</p>
+
+<p>One very remarkable and characteristic incident occurred at the opening of
+the school, at which were present the President of the Republic, Don Ramon
+de Castella, so hated and dreaded for his despotism, together with several
+senators and deputies. The Rector, Don Miguel Estorch, laid considerable
+stress, in the course of his address, upon the importance of really
+effective schools in a State, and maintained that, when children are well
+brought up, there is no longer any need of so large sums being spent for
+police and standing army to keep up security and order in the country.
+This remark, which made
+<!--392.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">380</a></span>a
+deep impression on all present, nevertheless
+gave much offence to the President, who rose and replied, in a tone of
+considerable asperity, that the Rector's view was erroneous, and that a
+proper military force was as indispensable as a good system of education;
+that it least of all became the Rector to touch upon such a topic in that
+place and such presence.</p>
+
+<p>Under the present political <i>régime</i>, it is out of the question to look
+for anything like intellectual vigour in Lima, so sparse are the elements
+of such. There is an utter absence of that sympathy, interest, and support
+which is necessary to its existence, alike on the part of Government and
+of society at large.<a name="FNanchor_136_136" id="FNanchor_136_136"></a><a href="#Footnote_136_136" class="fnanchor">[136]</a> Works, such as Manuel Fuentes' valuable
+"Estadistica General de Lima" (General Statistics of Lima), can only be
+considered as solitary special performances. Also in the
+<!--393.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">381</a></span>field
+of
+Journalism there is no person of mark visible, and even the few journals
+which appear in Lima, such as the <i>Comercio</i> and the <i>Independiente</i>, have
+a very limited circulation. As only a small proportion of the population
+can read or interest itself in politics, the principles advocated in those
+journals exercise no influence, so that Government has less difficulty in
+acting up to them than would otherwise be the case.</p>
+
+<p>One thing that particularly struck me was the hostility displayed to
+Austria, which, during my stay in Lima, manifested itself in the daily
+press and a fraction of the population. The politics of Austria were
+discussed with a bitterness of hate, which was the more surprising in a
+nation which is itself a prey to intestine disorders, and suffers itself
+to be led about a willing captive, in the fetters of a half-Indian despot.
+I found, however, the clue to this excited language, when I learned on one
+occasion, that there are upwards of 8000 Piedmontese in Lima and Callao
+alone, chiefly shop-keepers and shipping-owners, who exercise a certain
+influence upon the native population. The war in Europe had so raised anew
+the pride of country in each Italian, and filled him with such sanguine
+patriotic aspirations and hopes of a united Italy, that his heated fancy
+beheld in every incident of the war the most righteous struggle that ever
+was engaged in, and in the opposite party the most detestable and inhuman
+of opponents.</p>
+
+<p>Among such an auditory as those in which such opinions were ventilated,
+there was no difficulty in finding adherents. The ignorance of the native
+population respecting all countries
+<!--394.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">382</a></span>on
+the other side of the Andes became
+conspicuously evident in the course of the discussion. Of Italy and her
+plains they had at least heard tell, since Peru maintains a pretty active
+trade with Genoa. If I am not mistaken, the great revolutionary leader and
+popular idol of Italy was once captain of a ship along the Peruvian coast,
+and left here many a friend and well-wisher to his cause and himself. Of
+Austria, on the other hand, there were simply dim rumours flitting about
+as of some shadowy land, or the vanished empire of the Incas. Singular to
+say, it was precisely the renowned Concordat made with the Papacy which
+had brought such discredit on Austrian policy among the Roman Catholic
+population. I dare not repeat here the strong language which was used, not
+alone in the journals but to myself personally, by educated Peruvians and
+foreigners settled here.</p>
+
+<p>In fact, all the misery that Peru has suffered since its subjugation by
+the Spaniards, and its present drooping condition, is here universally
+ascribed to the overwhelming influence of Spanish monks and priests in
+secular affairs. It has not yet been forgotten that monks stood at the
+head of the Inquisition,&mdash;that for centuries the people groaned under
+their oppressive sway. Conscious of their own fate, and the condition to
+which the clerical weapons reduced the puerile half-civilized races which
+inhabit Mexico and Central America, the lively imagination of the
+Peruvians led to consequences resulting from such a state-policy far more
+disastrous than could possibly be the case among a free-souled people like
+the
+<!--395.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">383</a></span>Austrians.
+For it is the chief merit of European civilization, that
+every political measure threatening to impede the march of ideas by any
+process of fettering men's minds, only serves to evoke a more restless
+activity, as in our actual state of human culture enlightenment and
+science form far too formidable a bulwark for reaction to obtain any
+permanent success, or even to succeed in overleaping.</p>
+
+<p>Among the excursions which I made during my stay in Peru, there were two
+of special interest,&mdash;a ride to the ruins of Cajamarquilla, and a visit to
+the Temple of the Sun at Pachacamác, the erection of which dates from a
+period antecedent to the dynasty of the Incas.</p>
+
+<p>The ruins of Cajamarquilla are about nine English miles distant from the
+capital. Owing to the insecurity of life and property even in the region
+immediately around the capital, these ruins are but rarely visited. But
+very few strangers settled in Lima knew these ruins, and it required a
+long time ere I could procure the slightest information respecting them.
+My excellent host, Mr. Braun, who very soon perceived how much my heart
+was set on visiting these ancient Indian ruins, exerted himself to make up
+a party for me. It was a piece of real friendliness undertaken with the
+very kindest intentions, but unfortunately scientific objects do not
+usually admit of being mixed up with pleasure-parties, it being very
+difficult to unite the two. About twenty horsemen, chiefly English, had
+assembled to make the excursion. Among our company there were also a few
+ladies, whom the difficulties
+<!--396.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">384</a></span>and
+dangers could not deter from joining
+us. As we had to take with us provisions for the entire party, a string of
+mules heavily laden with prog had been sent off early in the morning to
+the goal of our excursion. These preparations seemed to be by far the most
+important in the eyes of a majority of the cavalcade, after their arrival
+at the ruins themselves, an examination of which was evidently the last
+thing they had thought of when they bestrode their steeds in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>The road to the ruins of Cajamarquilla is excessively fatiguing, rough,
+and rocky: nothing but climbing over rocky hills, upon which close to the
+very edge of the precipice is a faint Indian track, or crossing torrents,
+where the horse sinks to his crupper in the water, so that only a
+practised horseman can save himself from a thorough soaking.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately on leaving the city begins a tract of desolate sterile
+stone-fields, in the midst of which one reaches what is known as the
+Hacienda de Pedrero, a lonely farm, where, it being as usual a fête-day of
+some Peruvian saint, a dozen field labourers had collected under the
+shadow of the verandah round the farm-house, blissfully occupied in doing
+nothing. No two of these were of the same breed; there were men of every
+variety of race and shade of colour; whites, Indians, Chinese, Negroes,
+Mulattoes, Mestizoes, Chinos, Sambos, Quadroons, &amp;c. &amp;c., and this
+specimen in little of the population of Peru would lead any observer to
+conjecture correctly as to the main reason of the low position held by the
+country
+<!--397.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">385</a></span>in
+the scale of nations. As in the Hacienda of San Pedrero, so
+throughout the country one encounters fifty coloured men of all shades for
+one full-blooded white. In Chile, on the other hand, one has to penetrate
+deep into the interior before one finds any traces of the Indian stock,
+while of negro population, (and this is the greatest advantage enjoyed by
+that Republic over Peru,) there is absolutely none. In the settled parts
+along the coast of Chile there are none but whites, and even the working
+classes are Spaniards, English, German, Italians, and North Americans. The
+preponderating white element in the population, their greater
+intelligence, energy, and perseverance, form the principal source of that
+intellectual and political activity which has placed Chile far in advance
+of the other Southern and Central-American Republics, and is opening a
+brilliant future to that State, far surpassing that of any of the
+neighbouring republics.</p>
+
+<p>From the Hacienda de San Pedrero it is half an hour's ride to that of
+Guachipa and the Neveria of Don Pablo Sassio, where we engaged a guide,
+who accompanied us a couple of miles further to the goal of our excursion.</p>
+
+<p>Cajamarquilla is an ancient Peruvian hamlet in the valley of and close to
+the river Rimac, which waters the whole district and makes it productive.
+The remains of the dwellings are built exclusively of sun-dried bricks,
+and the laying out of each single apartment differs little from the mode
+of constructing Indian huts at the present day. It must to all
+<!--398.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">386</a></span>appearance
+have been an extensive place once, as the ruins cover eight to ten acres.
+Considering the little space which the Indian of the present day requires
+for his household gods, it may be assumed that this was a place of from
+30,000 to 40,000 inhabitants. I saw no buildings of very remarkable
+dimensions, nor indeed any one the laying out of which designated it as
+once intended for religious purposes. The ruins are for the most part,
+relics of simple mud-huts, all similarly laid out in single chambers,
+differing from each other mainly in the greater or less dimensions of the
+apartments. Nothing here told of the existence of any buildings intended
+for public meetings, temples for worship, sacrificial altars, &amp;c., such as
+one meets with in the ruined cities of Central America, in Copan,
+Quiriguá, Petén, Palenque, and so forth. One perceives that each of these
+huts, like those inhabited by the Indians at the present day, consisted of
+two compartments, the entire superficial area being from 36 to 42 feet
+square. The larger of the two apartments is about 60 feet, the smaller
+from 12 to 18 feet in width and depth. Nowhere could we discern a trace of
+that special construction which is observable among the Indian races of
+the high lands of Guatemala, and is there usually employed for taking
+vapour-baths (Temaskal.)</p>
+
+<p>To form any notion of the antiquity of these buildings is doubly difficult
+in a climate where it never rains and the temperature is the same
+throughout the year, and where consequently buildings are not exposed to
+the destructive alternations
+<!--399.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">387</a></span>of
+cold, damp, and scorching heat, as in
+other less favoured countries. Even earthquakes are here not so much to be
+dreaded as where houses are of brick or stone, since the Adoba possesses
+far more elasticity than intractable building material, and is therefore
+better able to withstand the repeated undulations of the earth's surface.</p>
+
+<p>The site of the town, which lies in a long deep valley surrounded on all
+sides by hills of the most fantastic shape, rising to a height of from
+8000 to 10,000 feet, is exceedingly grand. Unfortunately when we visited
+it, all the peaks and hills of the country around were naked, barren, and
+bleak-looking. But in winter after the first dews have fallen, those
+slopes and table-lands that now looked so desolate are covered with dense
+deep-green verdure, when they make a far more agreeable impression on the
+beholder.</p>
+
+<p>Of trees I saw only a few kinds of bamboo and acacia, which, more
+spreading than lofty, were visible in the swampy ground along the edges of
+the torrents. Some of the hills around seem at first sight like artificial
+fortifications, but when we approach closer there is not the slightest
+indication of Cajamarquilla having ever been a fort or place of defence.
+To all appearance the spot, at the time of the Spaniards first coming to
+Peru, was inhabited by the Quichua Indians, who afterwards either
+abandoned voluntarily their peaceful abodes through dread of their
+pursuers, or were driven thence by violence. None of the present
+inhabitants of the vicinity, to whom I spoke, could give us any definite
+information as to
+<!--400.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">388</a></span>the
+ancient history of the ruins, and one hoary Indian,
+named Pablo Plata, who lives in the village of Guachipa, and remembers
+some wild traditions respecting Cajamarquilla, which he received by word
+of mouth from preceding generations, I unfortunately missed seeing owing
+to the shortness of my stay.</p>
+
+<p>Quite close to the remains of the town, is at present a large Hacienda,
+with magnificent clover pasturages, fertilized by the river Rimac. It was
+at one of these green oases that our company sat down to a comfortable
+pic-nic, which spoke volumes for the preparations that had been made for
+creature comforts. No small portion of what had been brought with us was
+left on the field, to be gobbled up by the clouds of negroes that crowded
+round, glad of the opportunity of tasting something cooked in the European
+fashion, though they do not like them as well as the product of their own
+wretched native kettles. Thus, for example, our guide, a negro, preferred
+vegetables and <i>dulce</i> (sweets) to meat, and declared sherry and cognac
+offered him to be "too strong."</p>
+
+<p>If not in ease and comfort, at any rate in scientific interest, I found my
+excursion to Cajamarquilla surpassed by that made to Pachacamác in the
+valley of Lurin, which I made in company with some friend, and in the
+course of which I stayed behind the rest of my party, in company with the
+flag-lieutenant of the since world-renowned frigate <i>Merrimac</i>.</p>
+
+<p>My visit to Pachacamác was, however, in so far less interesting than that
+to Cajamarquilla, that the greater part of the
+<!--401.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">389</a></span>road,
+as far as Chorillos,
+was accomplished by railroad, the remainder of the way being over sand
+barrens, abhorred by both steed and rider.</p>
+
+<p>Chorillos, about nine miles from Lima, and a favourite watering-place of
+the inhabitants of the capital, with salt-water baths and gaming-tables,
+lies in a small romantic cove, but is of rather difficult access, owing to
+the steep sand-hills which, 150 to 200 feet in height, bar all access from
+seaward. Formerly the ride to Chorillos, like that from Callao to the
+capital, was performed under considerable difficulty and danger, whence it
+has not seldom resulted that visitors to the watering-place, who have made
+money at the tables of Chorillos, have on their homeward ride to Lima been
+eased of their winnings by some of their previous companions over the
+board of green cloth! At present one bowls thither over a well-made road,
+easily and without dread of being called on to "stand and deliver," since,
+even in Peru, people have not yet succeeded in amalgamating railroads and
+robbery.</p>
+
+<p>The little place itself boasts of a few good dwelling-houses, and some 100
+to 150 Ranchos of wood and <i>adobes</i>, or constructed of mud and reeds, in
+which delectable abodes the good folk from the capital are content to pass
+the hottest and most unhealthy months of the year (from January to May).
+These Ranchos, very unsightly without and exceedingly poorly furnished,
+are sometimes most habitable within-doors, and fitted with delightful
+verandahs or open porches,
+<!--402.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">390</a></span>in
+which the free-and-easy occupants loll
+about in grass hammocks or rocking-chairs, fanned by the cool sea-breezes,
+in a state of dreamy <i>dolce-far-niente</i>. Altogether Chorillos is a very
+unpretending and altogether uncomfortable place, in which there is little
+room for elegancy or self-assertion, the President of the Republic himself
+occupying a wretched, dirty Rancho. Don Ramon passes most of his time in
+the gaming-room, where he is a much-desired and most welcome guest, on
+account of the large sums which he is in the habit of wagering.</p>
+
+<p>On a lovely June morning, about 6.30 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span>, we rode out of Chorillos, and
+three hours later reached the ancient Pachacamác,<a name="FNanchor_137_137" id="FNanchor_137_137"></a><a href="#Footnote_137_137" class="fnanchor">[137]</a> a Quichua village
+close to the sea-shore, with the temple of the Sun there existent at a
+period antecedent to the Incas, and which was afterwards dedicated by the
+Incas to the service of the invisible God. These ruins are much older than
+those of Cajamarquilla. They are partly of clay-tile, but by far the
+largest part consists of hewn stone, held together by mortar, the whole
+presenting, even in its ruined state, a lasting and massive aspect. Of the
+temple which once stood here, there is, however, no trace at present
+visible beyond mere indistinct traces of the foundation.</p>
+
+<p>In the midst of a spacious Indian village there is seen a hill about 400
+feet high, with artificial terraces in regular gradation, and surrounded
+by lofty walls, that look as though they had been battlemented. On this
+rising ground once stood the temple which the Yuncas had built in honour
+of
+<!--403.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">391</a></span>their
+chief god. Somewhat later, when this wild race had been subdued
+by the Incas, these consecrated the temple in honour of the Sun, flung out
+the idols of the Yuncas, and designed a number of royal virgins for its
+service. Pizarro, however, completed the work of destruction, when, with
+his fanatical followers, he penetrated, in 1534, into the valley of Lurin,
+hitherto the most populous and peacefully prosperous of the entire
+Peruvian coast. The villages were laid waste, the temple overthrown, and
+its virgin priestesses delivered over to the brutal soldiery, and
+afterwards put to death.</p>
+
+<p>Quite close to the ruins, as they lie scattered along the coast, the
+island of Pachacamác, or Morosolar, rises from the bottom of the ocean,
+scarcely accessible owing to its steep, precipitous sides, and on which
+there is not a single architectural memorial of any sort to be found, as
+erroneously stated, or copied, by several authors.</p>
+
+<p>From the summit of the hill the visitor finds a surprising landscape,
+stretching over the beautiful and fertile valley of Lurin; it is difficult
+to imagine a more vivid and delightful contrast than is presented by the
+greyish-brown, sandy, far-extending ruins, and the soft verdure of the
+surrounding plain, variegated with the hues of every description of
+tropical plant. The attention is further arrested by the singularity of
+the abounding vegetation beginning close to the sea, where sugar-cane and
+grass flourish in the most luxuriant superabundance, while scarcely a
+half-mile distant the landscape resumes the barren, sandy features, which
+extend for
+<!--404.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">392</a></span>miles
+inland. Not till the Lurin valley is reached does the
+magnificence of tropical vegetation again enliven the scene.</p>
+
+<p>After a cursory examination of the locality, we passed the night at an
+adjoining <i>Hacienda</i>, a large sugar plantation and refinery, which employs
+180 Chinese coolies. Each Chinese labourer receives rations of rice and
+vegetables, besides four dollars a month, and binds himself to stay eight
+years with his employer, to repay the latter's outlay for his voyage, &amp;c.
+The speculator, however, who imports the coolies from the northern
+provinces of China receives a premium of 300 dollars for every coolie
+imported. The Chinese whom we saw at Lurin, as indeed all those we
+encountered throughout Peru, were very filthy and depressed-looking, but
+seemed in good health, and, on the whole, better off than in Brazil or the
+West Indies. We were told that two Chinese will not get through so much
+work as one negro. There are at present about 10,000 Chinese in Peru, who
+have been imported by speculators during the last ten years, to some of
+whom their deportation has been a vast benefit, since, after their eight
+years' service, they are free, and may and do begin to work zealously on
+their own account. In Peru, as in the Indies, Java, and indeed wherever
+they are employed, the Chinese cling close to each other, and mutually
+assist each other, should any of their number fall into poverty.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning early we paid a second visit to the ruins of
+Pachacamác, and took with us from the Hacienda a number of negroes, with
+working implements, for the purpose
+<!--405.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">393</a></span>of
+digging up and examining the
+graves. At various points, especially close to the hill on which stands
+what probably was once a fort, we found a great number of skulls lying
+about. Most of those we picked up had been artificially compressed, though
+they did not all seem to have had the pressure applied at the same place,
+thus affording unmistakeable proof that artificial pressure had been
+resorted to here. Many of the skulls, though they had been interred for
+centuries, were still thickly covered with hair. There cannot be a doubt
+that most of those buried here belonged to the race which occupied this
+part of the country when the Spaniards first visited it, for after the
+occupation and the subsequent wholesale baptisms which the proselytizing
+monks performed upon the ignorant brown natives in droves, it is
+improbable that any of the Christianized Indians would thereafter be
+interred in unconsecrated earth.</p>
+
+<p>The Peruvian Indians, as is well known, were accustomed to envelope their
+dead in coarse cloths, after which they were buried in basket or
+sack-shaped straw-plait work, certain objects and utensils being placed by
+their side, preference being given to those the deceased had most used in
+life. Thus, fish-nets, baskets, &amp;c., were placed in the grave, and in the
+case of a chief, weapons, staffs with golden knobs, pots of wood or burnt
+earth, and so forth. The head usually reposes on a sort of pillow of grass
+or cotton. I brought away with me from Pachacamác about half a dozen of
+the most remarkably shaped of these skulls, as also some portions of
+mummified
+<!--406.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">394</a></span>corpses,
+which the negroes had disinterred in my presence. All
+these objects were in excellent preservation, about three or four feet
+under the surface, some in simple graves, others in longish sepulchres of
+hewn stone, such as we might imagine were occupied by the wealthier class
+of the community. It is usual to find several skeletons (probably members
+of the same family) in each separate grave. I also found layers of woven
+stuffs, some of very superior design and finish, interposed between
+various corpses.</p>
+
+<p>While the negroes were engaged in further excavations, I once more
+ascended the hill on which the Temple of the Sun must once have stood, and
+which to this day is called by the neighbouring inhabitants "<i>Castillo del
+Sol</i>." On the side next the sea, there are still visible a number of
+buttresses, which seem as though they had formed part of an older line of
+fortifications. There was nothing resembling a sacrificial altar, or to
+tell of the religious ceremonies that must once have been performed here.
+Here and there the material of the wall was still covered with a reddish
+tint, just as if it had been but recently painted. In several portions of
+the wall still standing, there were pieces of wood alternating with layers
+of mortar, now quite decayed, and affording unmistakeable evidence of the
+antiquity of the buildings. We also remarked in the walls of several of
+the Indian huts niche-shaped depressions, about 1&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> feet deep by 1&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub>
+feet in length and width, the use of which has never been even plausibly
+conjectured. While the whole of the buildings of Cajamarquilla consisted
+of sun-dried tiles
+<!--407.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">395</a></span>and
+bricks, those of Pachacamác seem to have been
+almost entirely built of stone hewn into the shape of tiles. So much of
+the wall as still remains is very strong and solid. According to tradition
+the walls of ancient Pachacamác once stretched as far as Cuzco, 240 miles
+distant E.N.E.!</p>
+
+<p>The proprietor of the sugar plantation in the Lurin valley told me that he
+himself, about ten years previous, had seen mummies disinterred in the
+neighbourhood of Pachacamác, in the mouths of which were gold ornaments,
+while various objects were buried with them, such as small idols of gold
+and silver, staffs with golden buttons, earthen jars and vessels filled
+with Chicha (the well-known favourite intoxicating drink of the Indians),
+and fruits, the Chicha and fruits having remained in a wonderful state of
+preservation.<a name="FNanchor_138_138" id="FNanchor_138_138"></a><a href="#Footnote_138_138" class="fnanchor">[138]</a></p>
+
+<p>On our way back to Chorillos we passed the beautifully situated village of
+Susco, environed with neat country-houses, which was a favourite summer
+retreat of the inhabitants of Lima, before Chorillos reached its present
+development. At present Susco is dreary and forsaken-looking.</p>
+
+<p>When I reached Lima on my return from this interesting
+<!--408.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">396</a></span>excursion,
+I had
+only a few days more left before I was to take steamer again <i>en route</i> to
+Panama, which I employed in riding about to examine all that was best
+worth seeing in the environs, and making a few parting calls.</p>
+
+<p>One of the finest promenades in Lima is the <i>Alameda Nueva</i>, opened about
+two years previous, which lies on the road to Amancaes on the further bank
+of the Rimac, which divides the city into two unequal parts, of which,
+however, far the larger one, constituting indeed the city proper, lies on
+the left or southern bank. After the romantic descriptions I had read of
+the Rimac, I found myself woefully undeceived by the reality. Of the
+thundering rapids below the bridge, of which Castelnau gives us such a
+picturesque sketch, I found not a trace visible, the greater part of the
+river-bed, 150 to 200 feet wide, being quite dry, with a wretched little
+driblet of water trickling through it. The season of the year may,
+however, have contributed to this disenchanting prospect, and in August
+and September, when the melting snows and violent rain-storms of the
+neighbouring Cordilleras swell the brooks and rivers, they possibly impart
+a more imposing and lively aspect to the Rimac. The stone bridge over the
+river, which forms the communication with the suburb of San Lazaro, is a
+handsome structure, built in 1638-1640, from the designs of an Augustine
+monk, and cost nearly half a million dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Alameda Nueva</i> consists of a long, wide lane, with pretty garden
+nurseries and flower-beds on either side, interspersed with tasteful
+marble statues life-size, the whole enclosed in an
+<!--409.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">397</a></span>elegant
+iron railing
+richly ornamented. In the winter season, more particularly (June to
+September), this beautiful promenade is in great request, when, after a
+few heavy falls of dew, the hills and valleys of the environs are covered
+with verdure of the most delicate shades, and the residents of the capital
+wander through the lovely glades of Amancaes, which is so overrun with the
+yellow blossoms of the Amaryllis (<i>Ismene Hamancaes</i> of Herbert), that
+this fine plant has given its name to the whole valley. On such occasions
+quite a colony of booths is extemporized, where eatables and drinkables
+are consumed, and giants and dwarfs, panoramas and art-saloons, are
+thronged with visitors, while ballad-singers, musicians, rope-dancers,
+mountebanks, jugglers, gamblers, and thieves, are never weary of plying
+their various trades, to the lightening of the purses of the
+pleasure-seeking crowds.</p>
+
+<p>Of public amusements and places of resort there are but few in Lima, and
+these not of a very refined description. The theatre is an old and
+downright ugly building, where Spanish comedians play indifferent pieces.
+An Italian operatic company proved a failure owing to want of subscribers,
+even the highest talent barely succeeding in gaining sufficient to charter
+a ship to carry the <i>troupe</i> back to Europe. The sole amusement, which
+never fails to collect a delighted multitude, is a bull-fight. These come
+off at intervals during the summer in the Plaza del Acho, in an uncovered
+amphitheatre specially built for the purpose, and constructed of sun-dried
+brick. On these days all Lima is in a state of excitement, and an
+incalculable
+<!--410.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">398</a></span>crowd
+of curious sight-seers of both sexes are hastening
+through the Alameda Nueva to the arena, there to gloat over the bloody
+scene. Fully 12,000 to 15,000 human beings throng into the confined area;
+each hastily deposits his half dollar (2<i>s.</i>) of entrance-money, so as to
+get the chance of a better seat. One would think it must be to a splendid
+soul-elevating drama that they are flocking to listen to, whereas it is
+but the torture of a wretched herbivore that excites their depraved
+curiosity. The reader will excuse me for not reiterating the loathsome
+details of an often-told spectacle.</p>
+
+<p>It is a fact of considerable historic interest that bull-fights are now
+confined to the Spaniards and to their coloured descendants, in the
+various regions of the globe whither her dominion has extended, and it
+seems but a fit pendent, that the laws of the same nation should, in the
+latter half of the nineteenth century, condemn to the galleys Roman
+Catholics who venture to embrace Protestantism.</p>
+
+<p>We wish here to add one single remark of our own on a feature of the
+entertainment which we have not seen mentioned elsewhere, viz. what
+becomes of the flesh of the animals thus killed. It is forthwith cut up in
+quarters quite close to the arena, and sold at a reduced price to the
+populace, although it is a well-known physiological fact, that the meat of
+any animal killed in a state of rabid agony cannot be eaten without
+prejudice to the health. The negroes, however, erroneously maintain that
+meat thus killed is far more tender than that of cattle slaughtered in the
+ordinary
+<!--411.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">399</a></span>mode,
+and the Government of Republican Peru finds it best to
+leave each to decide the physiology of the question by his own digestive
+powers.</p>
+
+<p>Of the state of society in Lima I have little to say. A stranger finds it
+difficult to obtain a footing among the better families, especially if his
+stay be as limited as mine necessarily was. The high-pressure existence of
+the capital has of late years obliterated much of its former originality
+and poetry. He who saw Lima twenty years ago would hardly recognize it
+now-a-days. The "Saya" and the "Manto," those singular but in Lima once
+indispensable articles of apparel of the Limañas, which enabled them like
+masks to attend church or market, to join processions, in short, never
+left their face in the street or at the promenade, have entirely
+disappeared, and with them have necessarily gone many other peculiar
+habits and customs. Formerly no lady durst venture into the street without
+a "Saya" or "Manto;" now, on the contrary, she would run the risk of being
+insulted, or at least stared at, should she appear in public in this
+peculiar mask-like disguise. The ancient usages peculiar to the country
+must give way to French manners; the Saya, the close-fitting, usually
+black or cinnamon-coloured upper garment, which once was the customary
+attire, and consequently rendered a more careful toilette unnecessary, has
+made way for the voluminous crinolined silk dress, while the Manto, that
+heavy veil of a thick black silken material, which was thrown over the
+back, shoulders,
+<!--412.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">400</a></span>and
+head, and drawn so close that there was only a small
+triangular space left through which peeped one eye, has been displaced by
+the long black head-dress which the Spanish women are accustomed to wear.</p>
+
+<p>The ladies of Lima are usually of elegant, slight, graceful appearance,
+their chief attractions being brilliant complexion, large dark gleaming
+eyes, dazzling white teeth, rich black hair, and very neat little feet.
+They greatly reminded me of the Havana ladies, with whom they have much in
+common so far as regards the passion for personal adornment, while in
+figure and intelligent expression of face both lag far behind the ladies
+of Chile.</p>
+
+<p>The gentlemen of Lima, by which term I allude chiefly to the white Creoles
+or pure descendants of the Spaniards, who constitute about one-third of
+the population,<a name="FNanchor_139_139" id="FNanchor_139_139"></a><a href="#Footnote_139_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a> do not leave that impression of a splendid future
+resulting from a prosperous development of the resources of the country,
+which might be reasonably expected if there were more intellectual
+movement, and more industrial and commercial activity apparent among their
+number. The state of affairs in Peru since its separation from Spain in
+1822, the constant squabbles and civil wars, as also the fact that a mere
+mestizo, like Ramon Castilla, devoid of intellectual or moral
+pre-eminence,
+<!--413.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">401</a></span>should
+have succeeded in getting himself declared President
+for life of the Republic,<a name="FNanchor_140_140" id="FNanchor_140_140"></a><a href="#Footnote_140_140" class="fnanchor">[140]</a> are the best proofs of the political and
+moral degradation of the Republic of Peru. All the splendid territories
+from Peru to Mexico have, after three centuries of Spanish rule, sunk into
+a state of demoralization and degeneracy, owing to the listless,
+labour-hating, sluggish mestizo races that inhabit it, such as only the
+immigration of one of the hardy northern races can ever adequately remedy.
+In a previous visit to Central America, I have wandered through its rich
+scenery, clad in the hues of perpetual summer, and smiling in exuberance
+of fertility, and everywhere the same impression was made upon me. Almost
+the only effect this wealth of nature seems to exercise upon the Indian or
+negro mestizo is to incapacitate him from mastering by any effort of his
+own the lethargy that preys upon him. Where a few rare exceptions occur,
+as, for instance, in Costa Rica,
+<!--414.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">402</a></span>in
+which a sounder policy is preserved,
+it is invariably found that they are of purer Spanish descent than their
+sister republics in tropical South America.<a name="FNanchor_141_141" id="FNanchor_141_141"></a><a href="#Footnote_141_141" class="fnanchor">[141]</a></p>
+
+<p>Owing to their political organization, these various states can scarcely
+fail to be powerfully affected by the impulses of our time. They have no
+other prospect than that of becoming either an integral portion of the
+immense North American Federation, or of once more being consolidated into
+a monarchy under the sceptre of some scion of a European royal family. In
+all probability, whether they be North Americans, or English, or Germans,
+they will always be children of some of a more powerful race, who must
+ultimately subvert the races of the Southern type, awaken a new spirit of
+energy, and so carry out that which the lazy mixed races of the present
+time have neither the power nor the inclination to effect. An immigration
+of stilled Northerners can alone raise these countries politically and
+commercially, develope their natural resources, and restore them to the
+grade of civilized states.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most important as well as useful plants of Peru, and with
+samples of which I provided myself on leaving Peru, for the purpose of
+future analysis, is the Coca (<i>Erythroxylon Coca</i>), the leaves of which
+mixed with chalk or ashes of plants, form so important an article of diet
+as well as a masticatory among some Indian races of Peru and Bolivia.
+<!--415.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">403</a></span>Before
+I left Europe one of our most celebrated German pharmacologists,
+M. Wöhler of Göttingen, expressed to me his wish to procure a considerable
+quantity of coca leaves, to enable him to analyze more completely than had
+as yet been done the chemical constituents of this remarkable plant, and I
+therefore made it a duty to take measures for procuring the requisite
+supply. Although the wonderful stimulant properties of the coca had for
+more than half a century been known to European travellers, the leaves of
+the plant, which flourishes best on the eastern slopes of the Cordilleras
+of Peru and Bolivia, at an elevation of about 8000 feet, and a temperature
+of from 64°.4 to 68° Fahr., have hitherto only reached Europe in very
+small quantities, having in fact been carried home simply as curiosities.
+It was reserved for one of the <i>Novara</i> expedition to bring over as much
+as 60 lbs. weight for the purpose of investigation of its properties by
+German men of science. Half of this quantity I took to Europe among my own
+effects; the remainder was forwarded somewhat later, through the kindness
+of two German gentlemen resident in Lima, Messrs. C. Eggert and N.
+Linnich.</p>
+
+<p>So many, and in the main correct, accounts<a name="FNanchor_142_142" id="FNanchor_142_142"></a><a href="#Footnote_142_142" class="fnanchor">[142]</a> have been published by
+travellers of the coca plant, its culture, its effect
+<!--416.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">404</a></span>upon
+the system,
+and the marvels that have been achieved by its use, that I may well be
+excused from dwelling at length upon the habit which prevails among the
+Indians of chewing coca, or on its importance as a chief article of
+subsistence for several millions of our fellow-creatures. I may, however,
+mention certain instances which came within my own personal knowledge, as
+also a few statistical data relating to the annual consumption of coca in
+Peru and Bolivia, and the economical importance of this cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>A Scotchman named Campbell, who was settled as a merchant at Tacna in
+Bolivia, and with whom I travelled to Europe from Lima, informed me that a
+few years before, being engaged upon matters of urgent business, he had
+performed in one day a distance of 90 English miles on mule-back, and
+throughout that long distance had been accompanied by an Aymara Indian,
+who kept up easily with the mule, without other refreshment than a few
+grains of roasted maize and coca leaves, which, mingled with undissolved
+chalk, he chewed incessantly. On reaching the station where he was to pass
+the night, Mr. Campbell, though mounted on an excellent animal, found
+himself greatly fatigued; the guide, on the other hand, <i>after he had
+stood on his head for a few minutes</i>,<a name="FNanchor_143_143" id="FNanchor_143_143"></a><a href="#Footnote_143_143" class="fnanchor">[143]</a> and had drank a glass of
+brandy, set off without further delay on his homeward
+journey!!<!--417.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">405</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In April, 1859, Mr. Campbell despatched a native from La Paz to Tacna, a
+distance of 249 English miles, which the Indian accomplished in four days.
+He rested one day at Tacna, and set off the following morning on his
+return journey, in the course of which he had to cross a pass 13,000 feet
+in height. It would seem that throughout the whole of this immense journey
+on foot, he followed the Indian custom of taking no other sustenance than
+a little roasted maize and coca leaves, which he carried in a little pouch
+at his side, and chewed from time to time.<a name="FNanchor_144_144" id="FNanchor_144_144"></a><a href="#Footnote_144_144" class="fnanchor">[144]</a></p>
+
+<p>Like other experienced travellers, Mr. Campbell, who has lived over 14
+years in Bolivia, is of opinion that a moderate use of coca exercises no
+prejudicial influence upon the general health, but simply tends to make
+the Indian races of the higher regions of the Andes more capable of
+continued laborious work. Many coca-chewers attain a great age, and Mr.
+Campbell knew one such, who had taken part in the insurrection of
+Tupac-Amaru in 1781, and at the time of my visit, 1859, was still in full
+possession of all his faculties. In short, as in the case of opium and
+wine, it would seem that it is only the abuse of coca that is followed by
+evil consequences.</p>
+
+<p>The coca is less cultivated in Peru than in Bolivia, and the leaves are
+not in such request among the Quichua as
+<!--418.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">406</a></span>among
+the Aymara Indians.<a name="FNanchor_145_145" id="FNanchor_145_145"></a><a href="#Footnote_145_145" class="fnanchor">[145]</a>
+As the Government of Bolivia draws a very handsome revenue from coca
+cultivation, a tax of five reals, about one shilling, being levied on
+every <i>cesto</i>, or about 25 lbs. English, there is a better opportunity of
+getting at the correct amount of the entire production than in Peru, where
+the plant is grown free of duty. The coca tax realizes in all in Bolivia
+300,000 <i>pesos</i> or dollars (about £75,000), so that the entire annual
+product is about 480,000 <i>cestos</i> or 1,200,000 lbs. The <i>cesto</i> is worth
+at La Paz from 7 to 9 <i>pesos</i>, but when employed in large quantities for
+export, it cost about 10 dollars, placed on board ship. Altogether the
+coca crop of Bolivia may reasonably be estimated at rather less than
+700,000 <i>cestos</i>, equal to about 78,000 tons.</p>
+
+<p>The analysis to which the coca leaves I brought home with me were
+subjected at Göttingen, was attended by most important results, though the
+experiments are far from being completed. It was reserved for one of the
+assistants of the chemical laboratory, named Albert Niemann, to discover
+<!--419.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">407</a></span>in
+the leaves a peculiar crystallized organic base, to which, following
+the usual custom in such cases, the name Cocain has been given.<a name="FNanchor_146_146" id="FNanchor_146_146"></a><a href="#Footnote_146_146" class="fnanchor">[146]</a></p>
+
+<p>The lamented death of Dr. Albert Niemann in the flower of his youth, and
+in the midst of his promising labours, necessarily interrupted for a time
+the investigations into the nature and properties of cocain. M. Wöhler,
+however, in his capacity of Director of the Chemical Laboratory of the
+University, was so good as to assign to another able assistant, Mr. W.
+Lossen, the task of taking up the analysis at the point where its gifted
+discoverer had left it, when it was found that, when heated in chlorine,
+the cocain underwent a singular and
+<!--420.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">408</a></span>astonishing
+metamorphosis, being in
+fact resolved into Benzoic acid and a new organic base, for which M.
+Wöhler proposes the name of
+Ecgonin (from &#917;&#967;&#947;&#959;&#957;&#959;&#962;, an off-shoot).
+Further researches with the coca leaves lead to the discovery of a second
+organic base, which, it would appear, is contained in its primitive form
+in the coca, the composition of which will be treated of in a forthcoming
+paper by Mr. Lossen. This base is in a liquid form, for which the
+provisional name hygrin (from &#965;&#947;&#961;&#959;&#962;, fluid) has been
+adopted.<a name="FNanchor_147_147" id="FNanchor_147_147"></a><a href="#Footnote_147_147" class="fnanchor">[147]</a></p>
+
+<p>Hitherto the experiments made to determine the physiological properties of
+cocain have been less important in their results, as it is only found in
+small quantities in the coca leaf, and an adequate quantity can only be
+obtained with great trouble and difficulty.<a name="FNanchor_148_148" id="FNanchor_148_148"></a><a href="#Footnote_148_148" class="fnanchor">[148]</a> Consequently it is as yet
+impossible to decide the questions, whether one of these bases is stronger
+than the other, as also to which of the two are to be ascribed
+<!--421.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">409</a></span>the
+peculiar properties of the plant. Singular enough, the various experiments
+with an effusion of the coca leaves had not the least result, while it is
+well known that the use of this kind of tea in the Cordilleras wonderfully
+stimulates the breathing powers of the traveller, besides satisfying his
+appetite.<a name="FNanchor_149_149" id="FNanchor_149_149"></a><a href="#Footnote_149_149" class="fnanchor">[149]</a> It would also appear that the coca leaves lose part of
+their virtue in transit, and that their most intense activity is only
+developed in their native regions. If, however, the ultimate results of
+the experiments of Mr. Lossen, instituted with as much sagacity as zeal,
+should incontestably prove the value and utility of the plant for
+pharmaceutical purposes, as well as in all cases where the human strength
+is exposed to unwonted strains upon its energies, the means will surely
+and easily be found for extracting <i>on the spot</i> the active principles of
+coca, as is being at present done by industrious Yankees in Ecuador, with
+the Cinchona or China bark.</p>
+
+<p>When the <i>Novara</i> was leaving Batavia, I cherished the hope that our stay
+in South America would be sufficiently prolonged to admit of my making an
+excursion to the Cinchona forests, so as to enable me to speak
+authoritatively and from personal knowledge upon certain questions
+discussed at Lembang with Dr. Junghuhn,<a name="FNanchor_150_150" id="FNanchor_150_150"></a><a href="#Footnote_150_150" class="fnanchor">[150]</a> which had hitherto been left
+<!--422.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">410</a></span>unsettled
+or altogether unexamined, and which were of such deep import to
+the attempts being made in Java to cultivate
+<!--423.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">411</a></span>the
+Cinchona. Circumstances,
+however, had conspired to render this impracticable. Instead of the entire
+expedition, as originally projected, visiting that classic region, it was
+reserved
+<!--424.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">412</a></span>to
+myself, a solitary individual, to tread the scenes, where
+Humboldt once collected the first valuable contributions to science, and
+even then my time was so limited that my attention had to be confined to
+the capital of Peru, and the neighbouring country. Under these
+circumstances such a project as a regular scientific excursion deep into
+the heart of the Cinchona forests was entirely out of the question. I did
+not fail, however, to translate into Spanish and English, the disputed
+points which Dr. Junghuhn had requested me to ascertain for him, so that I
+might obtain such information upon these interesting questions from such
+of the friends I made in Peru or Chile as seemed likely, either in their
+own persons or by the opportunities for natural studies that might happen
+to characterize their place of residence, to
+<!--425.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">413</a></span>advance
+our knowledge of the
+Cinchona tree and its cultivation. My different efforts to obtain reliable
+information on the cultivation of the China bark tree in its mother
+country were especially promoted by my having met, while at Lima, with Mr.
+Campbell, who, during the many years he has been settled at Tacna, has
+paid especial attention to the China bark trade. For the chief export of
+this important medicament is in the hands of the Bolivians, and not of the
+Peruvians, as the uninitiated might imagine from the name it is usually
+known by in commerce, viz. Peruvian bark.<a name="FNanchor_151_151" id="FNanchor_151_151"></a><a href="#Footnote_151_151" class="fnanchor">[151]</a></p>
+
+<p>The most important facts which I am here enabled to dwell upon relate to
+the correction of a widespread misconception, that owing to the thirst for
+plunder and the wilful neglect of the China tree in its own native
+regions, the supply of the valuable drug obtained from its bark, the
+well-known Countess'<a name="FNanchor_152_152" id="FNanchor_152_152"></a><a href="#Footnote_152_152" class="fnanchor">[152]</a> or Jesuit bark, which to the practical physician
+is of
+<!--426.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">414</a></span>scarcely
+less importance than the potato to the labouring man, is
+daily diminishing. The Calisaya region (i. e. the limits within which the
+C. Calisaya, the species that furnishes the most valuable bark, is found
+in its finest and most abundant state) extends from about one degree north
+of Lake Titicaca, or from 14° 30&#8242; to 20° S. In the forests of Cochabamba,
+between which place and La Paz is the principal district of the China
+tree, the tree is more frequently found than in those running parallel on
+either side with La Paz, in which it is usually met with at such a
+distance from the capital that it becomes valueless, owing to the cost of
+transport, which is as high as 17 dollars per 100 lbs. The more southerly
+forests are still quite virgin, and have never re-echoed the blows of the
+Cascarilleros' axe. The largest quantity is exported from Tacna through
+the port of Arica, only a small portion being smuggled northwards from
+Lake Titicaca, for shipment <i>viâ</i> Port d'Islay. According to statistics,
+from 8000 to 10,000 cwt. of bark may be thus exported for any lapse of
+time, without the slightest danger of the tree getting exterminated. Since
+1845 the exportation of bark from Bolivia has been a Government monopoly,
+which has farmed out the privilege to a private company, that used to pay
+a certain annual premium based on an export of 4000 cwt. The company paid
+the Cascarilleros or other persons who collected the bark, 25 dollars to
+30 dollars for every hundredweight of Calisaya delivered in La Paz, the
+capital of Bolivia. The enterprise, however, proved only partially
+successful, since
+<!--427.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_415" id="Page_415">415</a></span>speculation,
+avarice and the continual political
+troubles and alterations of the Government, have each and all proved sore
+enemies to the peaceful development of the industry of the country. Each
+new President had only one thought, viz. how to make the largest profit by
+seizing on the natural wealth of the country, and only sought to increase
+the export of the bark for the sake of the monopoly. In 1850 a native
+commercial house in La Paz paid the bark-gatherers 60 pesos for every 100
+lbs., besides a duty to Government of 25 pesos additional, at the same
+time paying on an estimated export of 7000 cwt. The exorbitant wage thus
+granted to the Cascarilleros resulted in an enormous quantity of Calisaya
+being brought to La Paz from all parts of Bolivia, In order to preserve
+the public tranquillity, and not glut the market, the Bolivian Government
+now prohibited entirely the cutting or collecting of bark. Within eighteen
+months about 1400 tons of bark were brought in, and this gave the
+monopolists a perfect dread lest they should have to declare themselves
+bankrupt, and it was indeed only through the intervention of Government
+that they escaped. The latter took the entire stock on their own hands,
+paid the speculators with Treasury bonds, redeemable within a given number
+of years, and made a fresh contract with a native firm, which stipulated
+that the price at La Paz should be 65 dollars per 100 lbs., without
+further export duty.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the stock in hand was exhausted, the prohibition against
+cutting Calisaya had of course to be rescinded,
+<!--428.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">416</a></span>and
+in the interim the
+most decided steps were taken to check the superfluous, indeed dangerous,
+zeal of the Cascarilleros in the collection of the bark.</p>
+
+<p>While I was in Java chemical experiments had begun to be made with the
+bark of the young China trees, and from the fact that the valuable
+alkaloid was not found in these, it was hastily inferred that the bark of
+the trees grown in their adopted country had, owing to the change effected
+in climatic and other conditions, been deprived of the principle that made
+them most valuable in their native land. But researches made in South
+America have satisfied me, that even in the indigenous forests of
+Cinchona, the active principle quinine is only found in the bark of older
+trees, and that its quantity is perceptibly affected by the age of the
+tree, the finest quinine being obtained in largest quantities from trees
+upwards of fifty years old. To ignorance of this peculiarity must also be
+attributed in all probability the fact that, at the period of the Spanish
+rule, the China collectors or hunters (<i>Cazadores de Quina</i>) used to fell
+annually 800 or 900 young trees of from four to seven years old, to get at
+the 110 cwts. of fever-bark, which, intended exclusively for the use of
+the royal house, were shipped every year from Païta, and thence round the
+Horn to Cadiz.<a name="FNanchor_153_153" id="FNanchor_153_153"></a><a href="#Footnote_153_153" class="fnanchor">[153]</a></p>
+
+<p>So, too, with respect to the quantities annually exported at present from
+Bolivia and Peru, and used in European stores, there remain serious errors
+to correct, prevalent even among
+<!--429.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417">417</a></span>scientific
+circles. According to the
+latest estimates (which take cognizance of seven inferior sorts), there
+have been exported, between 1830 and 1860, not more than 10,000 tons,
+while of Calisaya, the specially valuable red bark (<i>Cascarilla roja</i>),
+not above 120,000 cwt. have been exported in all during the same period.
+While the annual export thus dwindles in dimensions from what had
+generally been supposed, there has lately been discovered in large
+quantities, in the forests between Tarija, Cochabamba, and La Paz, a
+species of Cinchona, whose bark is said to possess very much the same
+properties as the Calisaya. The curate of Tarija has offered for sale 3000
+cwt. of this valuable bark (called by the Indians Sucupira). The position
+of the forests in which this species of Cinchona is found is so favourable
+for exportation, that the cost of transport from Tarija to Iquique, the
+nearest port, would only amount to from 8 to 10 dollars per quintal.</p>
+
+<p>The departure of the mail steamer from Callao de Lima was fixed for the
+afternoon of 12th June, when several of my friends were so kind as to
+accompany me on board. In Callao I paid a short visit to H.M.S. <i>Ganges</i>,
+and then the U.S. frigate <i>Merrimac</i> (destined in less than three years to
+acquire a mournful renown in the horrors of civil war, as also
+imperishable celebrity as the pioneer of iron navies), one of the finest
+and most powerful screw-ships of the North American navy, armed at that
+time with 32 cannon, and of 960-horse power. I had had the pleasure of
+becoming acquainted with the officers of both ships, partly in Valparaiso,
+partly in Lima.
+<!--430.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">418</a></span>On
+board the <i>Ganges</i> I experienced a not less cordial
+and kind reception, and Admiral Baines, as commander-in-chief of the
+British fleet in the Pacific, did me the honour of granting me an official
+pass to all captains of British ships, setting forth my scientific
+pursuits, and recommending me to their particular attention.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 14th June, the good steamer <i>Valparaiso</i>, commanded
+by that courteous model of a British sailor, Captain Bloomfield, reached
+Huanchaco, the principal harbour of Truxillo, which is only six miles
+distant, and was once the capital of the northern portion of the empire of
+the Incas. The export of silver, wool, and cochineal from this port is
+pretty considerable. Here came on board a Scotchman named Blackwood, who
+for some years past had been cultivating cochineal in Truxillo, but was
+now, as he confessed, unable any longer to compete in its production with
+other countries, in consequence of the price of labour being so high, and
+the uncertain state of labour-supply. Mr. Blackwood intended proceeding
+<i>viâ</i> California to the East Indies, where he hoped to light upon a more
+suitable field for cochineal-growing, the cost of labour there being still
+low, and there existing a constantly-increasing demand for that
+substance<a name="FNanchor_154_154" id="FNanchor_154_154"></a><a href="#Footnote_154_154"
+class="fnanchor">[154]</a>.<!--431.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419">419</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the 15th June we anchored in the roads of San José de Lambajeque in the
+department of Chola. The position of this village is so unsuitable, that
+it is only possible to effect a landing by means of what are called
+<i>Balsas</i>(rafts with sails), consisting of huge thick trunks of trees bound
+together. One of these curious contrivances conveyed on shore in safety 76
+passengers at once, together with all their miscellaneous effects!</p>
+
+<p>Fifteen miles north of Lambajeque lies the Indian village of Iting
+(Repose), with 5000 inhabitants, whose language is totally different from
+the Quichua dialect, usually spoken in the province. One Peruvian on his
+return from his travels even went so far as to say that the idiom of the
+Iting Indians strongly resembled that of the Chinese! In Monsefú, not
+quite two miles from Iting, lives an Indian population which speaks
+nothing but Spanish, and consequently can neither understand nor be
+understood by its neighbours! This singular state of things almost
+entitles us to conjecture that the Spanish conquerors have adopted here
+the same tactics as those they put in practice in Central America, where
+they repeatedly were at the pains to introduce among the subjugated
+tribes, colonies of another race frequently hostile to the aborigines, in
+order by difference of customs and language to render any united action
+against the common enemy almost impossible. I have myself frequently
+observed in the Central-American State of San Salvador, that, for
+instance, the Tlascaltecas, who speak the language of Montezuma, had been
+settled in the midst
+<!--432.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">420</a></span>of
+foreign races. Such colonizations have almost
+invariably been effected for political purposes, and were compulsory,
+instead of being undertaken voluntarily.</p>
+
+<p>On 16th June we anchored in the beautiful and sheltered harbour of Payta.
+The little town itself has about 4000 inhabitants, who carry on a pretty
+brisk trade with the interior and along the coast. The principal article
+of export is hides, especially goat-skins, chinchilla fur (<i>Eriomys
+Chinchilla</i>), cotton, fruit, oil, herb-archel (<i>Roccella tinctoria</i>&mdash;used
+occasionally as a medicine, but more commonly as a dye,&mdash;the well-known
+litmus, used for chemical test papers, being prepared from it), and straw
+hats. Forty-five miles distant from Payta, in a beautiful and fertile
+neighbourhood, lies the town of Piura with 10,000 inhabitants, which
+carries on an extensive trade in fruit and vegetables along the coast, and
+indeed supplies Lima with its excellent produce.</p>
+
+<p>Payta harbour is visited annually by from fifty to sixty whalers, who take
+in fresh provisions here, do their repairs, and give their crews a little
+repose after long and heavy labours. The climate is very healthy and
+exceedingly dry. At the same time there is no lack of good water, which
+the Indians bring to the city from the river Chirar, 18 miles distant, in
+casks on mule-back. This mode of transport is so cheap, that the erection
+of a distilling apparatus in Payta would not pay. The cargo of one mule,
+about 12 gallons, would sell for about 2 reals (about 1<i>s.</i> 5&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub><i>d.</i>).
+Ships take in their supplies of water at Tumbez, a little further
+north.<!--433.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_421" id="Page_421">421</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When I was at Payta, there were some twenty merchant ships in the harbour.
+The trade of the place was evidently increasing. This was indicated not
+alone by the energy of the inhabitants, but by a general well-to-do air.
+Large, round, broad-brimmed straw hats are annually exported to the value
+of 400,000 dollars. Of goat-skins, the annual stock is about 1200 cwt.; of
+herb-archel from 1500 to 2000 cwt. There are also at Payta some very
+remunerative manufactures of castor oil (from the <i>Ricinus communis</i>), and
+its cognate from the piñon bean (<i>Jatropha curcas</i>), both of which are
+found in large quantities in the interior. By an iron machine worked by
+steam some 85 gallons of the oil are made daily, part of which is used in
+the country for lamps and in the preparation of soap; but by far the
+largest portion is exported to the United States.</p>
+
+<p>A few weeks before I reached Payta, there had been accidentally found in a
+cave among the bare sand-hills which form the naked desolate environs of
+the town, a quantity of maize, which was supposed to have formed part of a
+stock which had been placed here by the Incas. It was of a smaller kind
+than that grown at the present day. The grains, notwithstanding the
+centuries they had lain interred, were in very tolerable preservation. All
+along the coast nothing was spoken of but this incident, as though some
+great treasure had been discovered, whereas it was but some 60 lbs. of
+maize that were found. Moreover, the interest felt by the Indians in this
+<i>trouvaille</i> had nothing to do with its historic suggestiveness, but
+because their readily-inflamed imagination prefigured
+<!--434.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_422" id="Page_422">422</a></span>boundless
+stores of
+maize yet to be lighted upon and made available, without their having to
+labour for them!</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the afternoon we left Payta, and next day sighted the
+island of La Plata, distant about 10 miles from the mainland. A tradition,
+constantly in the mouth of the people, to the effect that the ancient
+Incas buried here a large amount of treasure, has led to many formal
+expeditions having been dispatched to this island at various times, every
+one of which, however, proved abortive. We now began to find the
+temperature perceptibly rising; for a few hours it rose from 65° to 76°
+Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>At 6 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> of the 20th, we reached the Taboga Islands, a group of lovely
+islets, about 11 miles from Panama, where are the warehouses and wharves
+of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company. Taboga Island, the most important
+of the group, is only one mile and a half long by half a mile broad, but
+with the adjacent islet of Taboquilla, forms a very convenient
+crescent-shaped harbour, which unites to a secure haven a tolerably
+healthy climate, so that during the unhealthy season, when the yellow
+fever sometimes commits fearful ravages in Panama, many of the inhabitants
+resort to this island, which, up to the year 1858, had remained entirely
+free of the scourge.</p>
+
+<p>Late in the evening the English and American papers came on board, from
+which we got the first intelligence of the march of events at the seat of
+war in Italy, as also of another world-wide calamity,&mdash;the death of
+Alexander von
+<!--435.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">423</a></span>Humboldt.
+Even here on the shores of the far Pacific, the
+intelligence of the greatest naturalist of our age having departed from
+among us, made a deep and powerful impression, which not even the tempests
+which impended over the political horizon, and threatened to envelope the
+entire world, could allay. Although the outbreak of hostilities between
+two such powers as France and Austria must inevitably react severely upon
+the condition of the inhabitants of North and South America, yet little
+was discussed respecting events in Italy; while the obituary notice of
+Humboldt was read aloud in the cabin, and many a fellow-traveller
+inscribed on a slip of paper for preservation those beautiful words which
+the noble and venerable old savant is said to have spoken, when on a
+lovely sunny May-day his spirit winged its flight from our planet, whose
+physical constitution his mighty mind had more closely investigated and
+comprehended than any other mortal of our day. "How gloriously those
+sunbeams dart forth; they seem as though inviting the earth to the
+heavens!"</p>
+
+<p>Thus it was forbidden to the members of the Expedition to find the great
+naturalist yet alive on their return to their common native land! How full
+of meaning did those touching words now prove, and how fall of mournful
+memories, with which Humboldt concluded his scientific suggestions to the
+<i>Novara</i> voyagers, when he prayed to Almighty God, "That His Holy Spirit
+would be with this great and splendid undertaking to the honour of the
+common Fatherland!"
+<!--436.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424">424</a></span>The
+<i>Novara</i> staff above all must doubly regret the
+death of the "Nestor of Science." The warm and active interest he took in
+their expedition contributed in no small degree to advance its scientific
+efficiency, and if it be the privilege of the <i>Novara</i> to live in the
+memory of the scientific world, it will, as the Archduke Ferdinand
+Maximilian himself expressed it in a letter to the venerable philosopher,
+"redound in its honour to the latest ages, that it was permitted to
+associate its name with that of Humboldt, who for three generations of men
+has been associated with every triumph that has been achieved in the
+domain of science."</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st, at 7 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span>, we anchored in the roads of Panama. Large ships
+are obliged to lie to from two to three miles off shore, as the beach is
+nothing but "slike," and at ebb-tide presents an immense unsightly
+expanse.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Panama (many fish), built on low green hills amid the most
+magnificent forms of tropical vegetation, presents when viewed from
+seaward a most lovely, enchanting aspect, especially to the traveller
+coming from the sterile sandy shores of the west coast of South America.
+As soon, however, as he sets foot on the shore, and has entered the
+precincts of the city, his first pleasing impressions are rudely
+dispelled. The streets are everywhere narrow and filthy, the houses low
+and poverty-stricken in appearance; even upon their roofs the luxuriance
+of tropical vegetation bursts forth! Moreover the chief square with its
+cathedral leaves an impression of decay. Only a few of the houses situate
+near the
+<!--437.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_425" id="Page_425">425</a></span>beach,
+the property of strangers, and a few of the hotels, have
+anything of a respectable appearance. The whole population does not exceed
+8000 to 9000 inhabitants, of whom about 500 are whites, the rest being
+negroes and mestizoes. At the time when the railroad was being made across
+the Isthmus, in the construction of which thousands of Irish and Chinese
+fell victims to the climate and the severity of the work, the experiment
+was made of introducing negroes from Jamaica, whose cosmopolitan nature
+asserted itself by their having increased and multiplied even here. At
+present there are upwards of 100,000 negroes on and near the Isthmus.</p>
+
+<p>The expense of living in Panama is no longer so exorbitant as it was ten
+years ago, at the period of the first emigration to the newly-discovered
+gold-fields of California, when there was no railroad, and the journey
+across the Isthmus was made partly on mules, partly in small canoes. For
+from three to four dollars a day, one gets very fair board and lodging at
+the best hotels. The most expensive item is washing, the charge being 2
+dollars (8<i>s.</i>) a dozen!! In a climate where European cleanliness
+necessitates frequent change of apparel, this item alone amounts to some
+25 dollars to 30 dollars per month for a single person! Accordingly, it is
+found to be more economical to fling away several articles of the toilette
+as soon as they have been soiled, and purchase a fresh supply, rather than
+pay this heavy tax on the purification of the old garments.</p>
+
+<p>The North American Company, which maintains direct
+<!--438.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">426</a></span>communication
+between
+California and New York, has made such excellent arrangements, that the
+passengers on their arrival in Panama by the train are conveyed in a small
+steamer from the station, which is close to the shore, out to the large
+steamer lying in the roads, which is to convey them to California. The
+entire time occupied in convoying 700 or 800 passengers with their usually
+rather heavy baggage from Colon across the Isthmus, and thence to their
+re-embarkation in the steamer upon the West Coast, does not exceed ten
+hours. The hotel-keepers of Panama, on the other hand, complain sorely of
+this arrangement, for whereas formerly no passenger ever crossed the
+Isthmus without spending one dollar at least, hundreds now pass through
+without ever setting a foot in the city.</p>
+
+<p>When I was in Panama there existed an "Opposition Line" of steamers, a
+genuine American institution, of which we have occasional examples in
+Europe, but which is only to be seen in its fall bloom in the United
+States. Formerly, the fare for a deck-passage from New York to San
+Francisco was 160 dollars (£33 10<i>s.</i>). The "Opposition Line" lowered the
+fare to 35 dollars, and as out of this sum 25 dollars had to be paid to
+the railway, there remained only 10 dollars (£2 2<i>s.</i>) for the cost of
+transport and maintenance of passengers on board large handsome steamers
+from New York to San Francisco! For the public at large this was
+undoubtedly a vast benefit, and in consequence of the unexampled lowness
+of fares, an immense number of persons had
+<!--439.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">427</a></span>gone
+to California during the
+last preceding few months. Whereas formerly only adventurers, speculators,
+or persons of means, could turn their eyes on the land of gold, a poor but
+industrious labouring population now pressed eagerly thither. Of course,
+however, it was too good to last:&mdash;no enterprise could continue upon such
+ruinous principles. It was the war of large capital against small;
+whichever could longest stand the incessant drain, remained in possession
+of the field. Occasionally, however, a "compromise" is effected between
+the two parties, but in that case the public is usually the sufferer,
+since in order to make up for past extravagance, the two quondam foes
+combine to keep up exorbitant rates.</p>
+
+<p>The salubrity of Panama, though still unhealthy enough during the wet
+season (May to September), is undoubtedly better than it ever was in
+former years. The doses of quinine pills with which people used to be
+presented in society, very much the same way as a pinch of snuff, have
+become infrequent, neither is it now the custom to drink sherry or brandy
+and water with quinine in it. Indeed, were foreign settlers to abstain
+from the practice of frequent meals, which even in more temperate climes
+cannot be continued in with impunity, the health of the inhabitants would
+benefit greatly. I repeatedly heard it maintained that the use of ice,
+which at present can be got in large quantities and at very low rates upon
+the whole Isthmus, and forms an ingredient of every beverage, and many
+dishes even, has materially improved the
+<!--440.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428">428</a></span>hygienic
+conditions of Panama.
+About 360 tons of ice are imported into Panama annually, or about one ton
+per diem. The whole quantity is supplied from the North American lakes,
+chiefly from Boston, and is sold in gross at 7 dollars 50 cents (about £1
+25<i>s.</i>) per 100 lbs., the retail price being a trifle over a shilling per
+pound. In order to avoid a glut which might make ice importation
+unremunerative, and endanger the steadiness of the supply, the Government
+has kept in its own hands the monopoly of the ice-trade.</p>
+
+<p>By Dr. Lebreton, a French physician long settled in Panama, who, together
+with an Austrian gentleman, Dr. Kratochwil from Saaz in Bohemia, placed me
+under the deepest obligation for their cordial hospitality, I was
+furnished with a variety of most interesting details of the sanitary
+statistics of the Isthmus, and some curious and valuable particulars
+respecting the poison with which the Indians arm their arrow-tips. In
+Panama is published a most ably-edited daily paper in English, the
+"<i>Panama Star and Herald</i>," conducted by two Americans, Messrs. Power and
+Boyd, which so fully and impartially treats of the political, social, and
+commercial condition of the Isthmus and the South American Republics, as
+makes it indispensable for every one to subscribe to it who takes any
+interest in the development of this remarkable country. It is chiefly due
+to these two large-minded, far-seeing gentlemen that we possess a
+statistical detail of the very important commerce of the Isthmus, as well
+as along the west coast of South America. These
+<!--441.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429">429</a></span>figures
+now lie before
+me, and give better than anything else a fair and complete estimate of its
+present activity, which, it may be remarked <i>en passant</i>, has owed nothing
+to the natives, but is entirely due to the energy of foreigners.</p>
+
+<p>No fewer than 64 powerful mail steamers, of the united burthen of 96,000
+tons, and representing a money value of at least £4,000,000, ply, part on
+the Atlantic side (Southampton <i>viâ</i> St. Thomas, and New York to
+Aspinwall), part on the Pacific side to the various harbours on the west
+coast of America, and keep up regular communication between Europe and
+that series of States, consisting of not less than 11,000,000 human
+beings. The value of the products and merchandise annually passing to and
+fro across the Isthmus amounts to about £15,000,000, while the amount of
+precious metals is not very much less.</p>
+
+<p>The pearl-fishery in the Gulf of Panama has of late years notably fallen
+off from its former importance. At present it lags far behind that of the
+Persian Gulf, from which there are annually about £300,000 worth brought
+up, whereas here, notwithstanding the enormous extent of the
+pearl-oyster-banks, the yearly take of pearls does not exceed £24,000.
+Indeed the fishery is carried on less for its costly contents than for the
+sake of the mother-of-pearl itself, of which some 800 or 900 tons are
+shipped annually.</p>
+
+<p>On 23rd June I went by rail from Panama to Aspinwall, on the Atlantic
+side. Except on the days when the steamers on either side bring their
+fortnightly quota of passengers,
+<!--442.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">430</a></span>the
+traffic of the line is very small.
+When, however, the passenger steamer at either end has disembarked her
+living freight, the Isthmus is all alive, and the coffers of the Company
+are amply replenished. The number of passengers both ways annually has
+been estimated at from 36,000 to 40,000, and the gross receipts of the
+Company at from £200,000 to £300,000.<a name="FNanchor_155_155" id="FNanchor_155_155"></a><a href="#Footnote_155_155" class="fnanchor">[155]</a></p>
+
+<p>The fare for the somewhat short distance, 47 miles, is high. There is but
+one class of carriage, and the charge is £5 5<i>s.</i>, besides 10 cents
+(5<i>d.</i>) for every pound of baggage above 30 lbs. But it must always be
+borne in mind that enormous difficulties had to be overcome in the
+construction of the line, and that the cost of maintaining the permanent
+way in anything like order is very great, in consequence of the climate
+and the rich tropical vegetation. Whoever has struggled through the almost
+impenetrable forests of the Isthmus, before the rail passed through it,
+and bears in mind the immense physical difficulties of that laborious
+operation, would thankfully pay double the sum now charged for performing
+within a few hours a journey which often occupied a whole
+week.<!--443.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">431</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The construction of the Panama Railroad was commenced in 1850, the first
+sod being cut on the Atlantic side. On 27th January, 1855, the locomotive
+first performed the journey from ocean to ocean. The cost of construction
+amounted to about £1,100,000.<a name="FNanchor_156_156" id="FNanchor_156_156"></a><a href="#Footnote_156_156" class="fnanchor">[156]</a> This capital was speedily subscribed by
+the eager speculative Yankees, and, as the result proved, insured from the
+very first to the shareholders a handsome constantly-increasing dividend.</p>
+
+<p>The concession enjoyed by the Company from the Government of New Granada
+only lasts for twenty years, from the day on which the entire line is
+opened; on the expiry of that period the New Granada Government must
+either pay down 5,000,000 dollars (the entire cost of construction), or
+extend the concession for ten years more. At the expiration of this second
+term, the Government may purchase for 4,000,000 dollars, or grant a third
+term of equal length, after which they are to be at liberty to purchase it
+for 2,000,000 dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The traffic managers of the line, Messrs. Lewine and Dorsay, showed me the
+most polite attention. The resident director, Mr. Center, whose office is
+in Aspinwall, and to whom I had letters of introduction, invited me by
+telegraph to make free use of the line, as nothing would give him greater
+pleasure than to become of some service to a scientific traveller. I took
+with me fourteen goodly packages, chiefly
+<!--444.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">432</a></span>collections
+of natural history.
+Most of these required great care and attention, some on account of their
+fragile texture, others in consequence of being of a perishable nature.
+All these were transported with as much care as though they had been
+charged the very highest rate of freight. The treatment of scientific
+travellers is to some extent a measure of the degree of civilization of a
+people. Hence it is that the North American States and the British
+colonies are the points of the globe where the efforts of scientific
+travellers elicit the heartiest sympathy, where he may count upon the most
+friendly reception, and the most cordial co-operation in carrying out the
+objects he has in view. And speaking now after ten years of the most
+varied experiences of travel, I look back thankfully to the conspicuous
+evidences of good-will which I have universally received from all
+Americans, from the banks of the St. Lawrence to the shores of the Gulf of
+Mexico, and recall with gratitude how every class of the community
+bestirred itself to promote and facilitate the scientific researches of a
+solitary traveller,&mdash;how, more particularly, the press, that great power
+of the intellect, lent the utmost assistance of its influential position
+to forward my wishes, and how its columns, thanks to the interest its
+conductors themselves felt, were always open in the most remote districts
+to welcome the stranger. And now, when for a second time I received from
+the sons of that same mighty republic the same cordiality of welcome, I
+recalled with redoubled vivacity the happiness of those long-vanished but
+most pleasant days, as I
+<!--445.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433">433</a></span>record
+this tribute with so much the more
+satisfaction, that I felt it was not the individual but his profession
+that was thus honoured, as is abundantly proved by the experience of many
+another scientific traveller.</p>
+
+<p>The journey across the Isthmus, right through the heart of the primeval
+forest, which was decked out in its gayest attire, is one of the most
+exciting, soul-stirring scenes that the eye of the lover of nature ever
+rested upon. In no part of the world have I seen more luxuriant and
+abundant vegetation than is presented by the forests of Central America,
+and more especially upon the Isthmus. And, as if to heighten still further
+the sense of marvel and enchantment, one traverses this magnificent forest
+landscape behind a locomotive running on its iron track. What a contrast!
+The wild ravel of creepers and the green feathery branches of the palms
+almost penetrate into the waggons, and tell with unmistakeable emphasis
+that the traveller is indeed surrounded by all the beauties of Nature in
+her tropic garb. Trees of the most varied description and of colossal
+dimensions flourish in the foreign garment of a borrowed adornment.
+Between each solitary giant of a forest tree, parasites and <i>Lianæ</i> spread
+their delicate green coils, while many a gigantic stem, enveloped in
+thousands of beautiful shoots, or dead trunk choked in the embrace of a
+parasitic creeper, attracts the eye as the train speeds past. So quick and
+so strong is the process of vegetation here, that every section of this
+line has twice in each year to be freed from the encroachments of the
+forest-children; nay, were the
+<!--446.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">434</a></span>line
+to be left unused but for one
+twelvemonth, it would be difficult to discover any trace of its existence,
+so completely within that time would the whole district become once more a
+wilderness!</p>
+
+<p>The physico-geographical conditions of the Isthmus have only latterly been
+made the subject of profound and exhaustive study by a German naturalist,
+who has published the result of his researches. The justly-dreaded climate
+was the main cause of its having been so long left unexamined. To that
+keen indefatigable <i>savant</i>, Dr. Moritz Wagner, my whilom faithful
+travelling companion through Northern and Central America, is due the
+praise of having first accurately and analytically investigated the
+territory of the Isthmus,&mdash;that dam which separates two ocean worlds as it
+may be considered from one point of view,&mdash;that bridge which unites two
+immense continents as it may be regarded from another,&mdash;and who, in so
+doing, has contributed many new and important facts to our previous stock
+of statistics respecting the hypsometrical and geognostic features of the
+Isthmus, as well as to the geographical distribution of the forms of
+organic life which are found there.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of constructing the railroad, the geological profile of the
+country was laid open through a length of 47 miles. This fortunate
+circumstance the German naturalist availed himself of as an excellent
+opportunity for carrying out his design, but his labours were none the
+less beset with difficulties, and only his indomitable perseverance could
+have
+<!--447.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_435" id="Page_435">435</a></span>carried
+him through the tropical intermittent fevers and mental
+anxiety, which at one time threatened to prostrate his physical strength,
+or even to lay him in his grave. Wagner had been first struck by the very
+remarkable evidence of an entire alteration in the form of the hills
+between Veragua and Obispo. This change in the vertical configuration, the
+decided depression of the Cordilleras, which is most apparent between
+Limon Bay (at the mouth of the Chagres river) and the Gulf of Panama, is
+just as much an important geological fact for physical geography, and for
+solving the important questions of the present and future commerce so
+intimately connected with the artificially cutting through of this neck of
+land, as the change in the horizontal configuration or the sudden
+compression of this part of the world in the north-west of the province of
+Choco, or the rugged steepness that characterizes the range of hills which
+forms the contour of the coast-line. The geological and botanical
+specimens, those most reliable of all data for physical generalization,
+with which Wagner illustrates his interesting exposition of the natural
+character, the prevailing formations, and the most prominent
+representations of the vegetation of the Isthmus, form at present a
+valuable part of the collections of natural history in the Museum of
+Munich.</p>
+
+<p>The journey across is not made at the speed one would expect on a line
+where the locomotive is in charge of a Yankee. It takes four hours to do
+the 47&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> English miles. The stations are very numerous, often situate in
+the heart of the forest,
+<!--448.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">436</a></span>where
+there are only a few labourers' huts.
+Moreover, halts are frequent at spots where there are no passengers
+visible, either to take up or set down. One of the most beautiful of the
+stations is that at the little village of Paraiso, about nine miles
+distant from Panama, which lies in a kettle-shaped glade. At this point
+large clearings have been made, and the eye ranges over a rather more
+extended landscape, only bounded in fact by the contour of the
+neighbouring hills. The only inhabitants are negroes, mulattoes, and
+mestizoes, who for the most part are employed as labourers on the line. A
+few miles after leaving Paraiso, the train reaches the station of Culebra,
+or, as it is more generally called by the inhabitants, "the Summit," the
+narrow steep rise of which marks the water-shed between the Rio Grande,
+falling into the Pacific, and the Rio Chagres, which debouches into the
+Caribbean Sea. This is the highest point of the line. The actual height of
+the pass is 287 English feet, but it has been lowered by about 25 feet, so
+that Summit station is only 262 feet above the mean level of the ocean.</p>
+
+<p>The most important village along the line is Matachin, a large straggling
+village, which, however, seems to be inhabited exclusively by negroes,
+mulattoes, and Zamboes. As I have previously remarked, the majority of the
+labourers on the line emigrated hither from the West Indies, especially
+Jamaica, attracted by the high wages of labour, and after it was
+completed, settled along its course in neat, clean, but small cottages.
+And whereas the baleful tropical climate
+<!--449.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_437" id="Page_437">437</a></span>decimated
+every other class of
+labourer employed during the construction of the lines, these latter have
+flourished here better than any other description of settler. They seem to
+be universally healthy and well fed, and their oceans of children, who
+impart life to the landscape, attest that the women have not lost their
+fertility. They all seemed to be well and were neatly clothed. However,
+when I crossed, it happened to be a holiday, and consequently every one
+wore his Sunday dress, clean white trowsers, white shirt, and a
+narrow-brimmed hat of fine straw.</p>
+
+<p>Near Barbacoa station the eye of the traveller, that has hitherto revelled
+in the voluptuous beauties of nature, rests with pleasure on a splendid
+trophy of human industry, an iron bridge, 600 feet long, which spans the
+River Chagres at this point. It was on one of the Cerros, a little west of
+Barbacoa, that Vasco Nuñez de Balboa first beheld both the Atlantic and
+the Pacific oceans at once, and, regarding his stand-point in the Isthmus
+as a mere handful of earth, may have imagined himself a conqueror, whose
+glance comprehended both worlds.</p>
+
+<p>The last portion of the line, as we near the Atlantic side, passes over
+vast swamps, which rendered the construction of this portion of the road
+exceedingly difficult and very expensive. Aspinwall itself moreover, the
+terminus of the Inter-oceanic Railway, lies on a small island, two-thirds
+of the surface of which is morass, and covered with tropical marsh
+vegetation. This station was selected, notwithstanding its
+<!--450.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_438" id="Page_438">438</a></span>very
+unwholesome climate, chiefly because the roadstead of Limon Bay furnishes
+a safe anchorage in all weathers for vessels of even the largest size.</p>
+
+<p>This small island, only 7000 feet long by 5800 wide, which was first named
+from the immense quantity of <i>Hippomane mancinella</i>, a tree with a very
+powerful poison, that is found on it, and is now called "Isla de
+Manzanilla," was formally made over by the New Granada Government to the
+American Company at the beginning of the works in the year 1852, and was
+used by it for the new city, as also for the erection of warehouses, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Aspinwall, or Colon, as it is sometimes called, numbers at present some
+1500 inhabitants, of whom 150 are North Americans and English, the rest
+negroes and mulattoes. The little town, with its neat frame-houses and
+clean cottages, involuntarily reminds one of the new settlements in the
+North American States. Here, besides the residences of the officials, are
+the warehouses and workshops of the Company. In the latter about 700
+workmen are employed, while four schooners maintain uninterrupted
+communication between Aspinwall and New York, for the purpose of providing
+for the various wants of the crowded establishment. Even the very
+provisions are imported from North America. The resident director, Mr. A.
+J. Center, received me with the most hearty welcome, and during my entire
+stay continued to display the same kindness and interest, which he
+manifested from the moment he received my letter of
+introduction.<!--451.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439">439</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In Aspinwall the climate has within the last few years become more
+salubrious than at the period of the first colonization, when "Chagres
+fever" acquired a gruesome reputation, and no resident who stayed above
+two months in the place escaped the attack of the fever. Even mules and
+dogs could not escape the universal malaria. However, to this day a
+lengthened residence on this marshy soil is not unattended with danger,
+although the miasmatic poison has undoubtedly lost much of its virulence.
+The negroes longest resist its dangerous effect, after whom come the
+coolies, then the Europeans, while the Chinese are invariably the earliest
+attacked.<a name="FNanchor_157_157" id="FNanchor_157_157"></a><a href="#Footnote_157_157" class="fnanchor">[157]</a></p>
+
+<p>On 23rd June, about midnight, I left Limon Bay in the steamer <i>Medway</i>.
+Having been committed to the charge of her captain by the kind attention
+of Mr. B. Cowan, the English Consul in Aspinwall, I found myself more
+comfortable and better attended to on board this small filthy old tub than
+I could possibly have expected. The Company avowedly employ in the
+Intercolonial lines the worst and most uncomfortable of their vessels, and
+the traveller who has to make any short passage, for instance, among the
+West India
+<!--452.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440">440</a></span>islands,
+is exposed to the doubly disagreeable feeling of
+paying a very much higher rate of fare, for very inferior accommodation.
+The <i>Medway</i> was an old acquaintance of mine in my previous West Indian
+rambles, as in former years she performed the mail service between Belize,
+Jamaica, Hayti, Porto Rico, St. Thomas, and Havanna, and this opportunity
+of renewing my acquaintance with her I hailed with anything but a
+sentiment of satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>Early on the 25th June we ran into the extensive and beautiful bay of
+Carthagena, which now-a-days is only accessible on one side, the second
+entrance having been destroyed by the Spaniards during their supremacy,
+and never reopened. This seaport contains about 11,000 inhabitants, many
+churches and monasteries, as also large fortifications, but of trade and
+commerce there is next to nothing. In the roads there lay but three small
+coasting crafts. For the naturalist, and especially for the zoologist,
+Carthagena is on the other hand classic soil.</p>
+
+<p>Our steamer was fairly beleaguered by shoals of small canoes with natives
+on board, who offered for sale any quantity of the most various and
+beautiful little denizens of the surrounding country. Any naturalist who
+should spend a short time here, might, with the assistance of the Indians,
+who seem to be both zealous and apt collectors, get together an extensive
+and most valuable zoological and botanical collection. Carthagena indeed
+presents in particular great advantages for the shipment to Europe alive
+of the more interesting
+<!--453.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_441" id="Page_441">441</a></span>animals.
+These steamers do not take much above a
+fortnight hence to England, and if dispatched about May or June, the
+animals would sustain but little detriment from the change to a European
+climate at that season. Thus on the present voyage of the <i>Medway</i> there
+were numbers of animals and chests of plants in full bloom, consigned to
+various museums and private collections in England.</p>
+
+<p>On 30th June we anchored in the small but delightful harbour of St.
+Thomas, with bright green hills forming a picturesque back-ground,
+relieved by the white houses of the inhabitants picturesquely grouped
+along their slopes.</p>
+
+<p>St. Thomas had changed little from what I remembered it at my previous
+visit in 1855. At the last census it had 15,000 inhabitants, and its trade
+is visibly increasing. It is, however, extremely difficult to get at the
+statistics of the annual amount of shipping here, as there is no
+toll-house, and the Danish Government publishes no official information as
+to the general trade. According to a German merchant long resident here,
+the number of foreign ships of all nations entering and leaving the port
+amounts to 860 annually, of coasters about 3500, while the annual value of
+merchandise so transshipped is about 6,000,000 dollars. One very
+remarkable trade is that in ice, which reaches the enormous amount of 1000
+tons annually, chiefly for distribution among the adjoining islands, by
+far the largest proportion of which comes from Boston, where it is worth
+20 dollars per ton, and at St. Thomas 80 dollars per ton, or 3&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> cents
+per lb. One may
+<!--454.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_442" id="Page_442">442</a></span>conceive
+that the entire ice-trade to the West Indies,
+South America, China, the Malay Archipelago, and the East Indies is in the
+hands of the keen North Americans, who evince a capacity for making a
+genial use of a natural phenomenon, which a less speculative race of men
+associate with the idea of cold, discomfort, and stagnation of
+intercourse.</p>
+
+<p>M. A. Rüse, a wealthy chemist and zealous naturalist, by whom as by other
+German residents I was most kindly received, has acquired much distinction
+from his profound acquaintance with the lower animals of the West Indies,
+of which he possesses a small but valuable collection, chiefly of the
+Fauna of the islands of St. Thomas, Ste. Croix and Trinidad, and was so
+exceedingly courteous as to present me with duplicates of several of the
+most interesting. M. Krebs, merchant, and M. Kjaer harbour-master, also in
+their hours of relaxation gave me much valuable information on kindred
+topics, the latter gentleman farther presenting me with specimens from an
+excellent collection he had formed of petrifactions.</p>
+
+<p>What, however, afforded me the sincerest satisfaction on the occasion of
+my present visit to St. Thomas, was the striking examples of industry,
+intelligence, and social comfort of the negro population. Of all nations
+among whom this curse of slavery has been implanted, the Danes have best
+comprehended how practically to solve the difficult problem of
+emancipation. The number of slaves in Danish colonies was at all times
+very small, and their manumission consequently more easy.
+<!--455.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_443" id="Page_443">443</a></span>Nevertheless
+the mode adopted in getting rid of the evil is deserving of attention and
+imitation. The duty of labouring does not cease with the means of
+compelling it. Slaves emancipated by the Danish Government may spend the
+wages they receive for their labour at their own discretion, and are
+permitted to change masters at pleasure, but they cannot quit their former
+employer till they have found a fresh one. The rate of wages at St. Thomas
+is pretty high, and the black population, who form the largest contingent
+of the labouring population, not only finds constant occupation, but is
+remarkably well paid besides. The negroes on this island are, however,
+very handy and quick, thanks to the constant intercourse with foreign
+nations. Many of them speak several languages fluently, and a German
+traveller who visits the island for the first time is apt to be not a
+little surprised at finding himself addressed in his mother-tongue by a
+swarthy son of Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Our departure was fixed for 1st July. The various mail steamers which had
+been expected from the different ports of the West Indies and the eastern
+coast of Central America, had all arrived. The fine and comfortable but
+old and slow steamer <i>Magdalena</i> was to leave for Europe at noon. Suddenly
+a sailing vessel came in like a Job's comforter, with the intelligence
+that the splendid new steamer <i>Paramatta</i>, which was about due with the
+mails from England, had on her first voyage gone ashore on the Anegada
+shoal near the island of Virgin Gorda, 60 nautical miles from St. Thomas,
+and with her
+<!--456.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_444" id="Page_444">444</a></span>40
+passengers, and a valuable cargo, was in need of instant
+relief. This intelligence again delayed our departure. It was at first
+determined to send off every disposable steamer to the scene of the
+disaster, and to detain the <i>Magdalena</i>, till full particulars of the
+mischance had been obtained, for transmission to the directors in London.
+Afterwards it was arranged that the <i>Magdalena</i> should proceed to the spot
+where the <i>Paramatta</i> was lying nearly high and dry, to assist if possible
+in floating the ship off the reef.</p>
+
+<p>At 6 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> accordingly we steamed out of the Bay of St. Thomas. On the
+present occasion the <i>Magdalena</i> had 163 passengers on board, the majority
+of whom were planters from the various West India islands, bound on a
+pleasure trip during the hot season. Not merely the black servants, but
+even their white and chocolate-coloured masters, broke out into the most
+marvellous English or French jargon, according as they came from Jamaica
+and Demerara, from Martinique, Guadaloupe, or Hayti. The presence of a
+great number of children, who, so long as they kept free of sea-sickness,
+evidently considered the whole of the quarter-deck as especially designed
+for them to play on, in which notion they were zealously upheld by their
+mothers and their nurses, made the passage anything but agreeable.
+Moreover, the impression made by the grown-up passengers was such as to
+heighten one's aspirations for a speedy voyage. The intelligence which had
+been received from the seat of war in Italy gave rise to much excitement,
+and within the first twelve hours had made it apparent
+<!--457.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_445" id="Page_445">445</a></span>that
+it was vain
+to hope for a pleasant voyage. Nothing was heard on every side but
+politics, and it may be left to the reader to guess in what tone they
+would be discussed, when Frenchmen, heated with visions of <i>la gloire
+militaire</i>, were the principal spokesmen.</p>
+
+<p>Early the next morning we were near the reef, which had disabled the
+largest and finest of the Company's ships, that had just cost £140,000.
+The unfortunate ship had struck the reef when running 11 knots an hour,
+and now lay on her starboard side on the reef, having careened so far over
+that her port paddle-wheel was quite clear of the water. A committee on
+the spot having decided that she must be entirely dismantled before even
+her bare hull could be got off the reef, it was resolved not to detain the
+<i>Magdalena</i>, it being thought desirable that she should as speedily as
+possible make her way to Southampton, so as to enable the directors at
+once to determine what course to adopt, before the sailing of the next
+steamer. Our captain was furnished with a general account of the accident,
+together with a sketch by the head engineer of the position of the
+<i>Paramatta</i>, and with these the <i>Magdalena</i> was permitted to take her
+departure.</p>
+
+<p>The voyage threatened to be long and tedious, though attempts were made to
+enliven the mornings and evenings by music, and an occasional dance on
+deck. The former might have been made very agreeable, had not the <i>chef
+d'orchestre</i>, who was second steward, ventured on playing his own
+compositions as often as possible. To please the susceptibilities of
+<!--458.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446">446</a></span>the
+two nationalities, <i>God save the Queen</i> and <i>Partant pour la Syrie</i> were
+regularly called for each night. A more serious cause of alarm was the
+fear lest we should have to put into some intermediate port to coal. When
+she left St. Thomas the <i>Magdalena</i> had 1200 tons on board, but as,
+notwithstanding constant calms and a sea like a mill-pond, she never made
+above 190 to 220 miles in the early part of the voyage, at a consumption
+of 70 tons per day, there seemed every prospect of our exhausting our
+supply. As she consumed her stock, however, she lightened perceptibly,
+till she even got up to the for her unusual speed of 280 miles a day. How
+different from the same Company's ships <i>Atrato</i> and <i>La Plata</i>, which
+frequently make 340 miles a day, and in fact average only 13 days on the
+passage home, while the average of the <i>Magdalena</i> and her consorts is 18
+days!</p>
+
+<p>At last, on 18th July, we sighted the Lizard's. Although barely 200 miles
+from our destination, the captain thought it best to put into the nearest
+port for a supply of coal, and shortly after noon we anchored in Falmouth
+Harbour, where the first intelligence we got was that peace had been
+concluded. Singular to say, even this intelligence produced no accession
+of harmony between the two great political parties on board. As for
+myself, I had kept as much as possible by myself; and now stepping ashore,
+I wandered through the narrow dirty streets of Falmouth, which presents
+the accurate type of the old-fashioned English provincial town. The
+meadows and sloping hills around shone forth in all the fresh
+<!--459.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447">447</a></span>verdure
+of
+spring. Even the traveller fresh from the voluptuous loveliness of the
+tropics, finds ever new beauties in the manifold variety of nature. The
+more the student of Nature walks with her and finds in her his chief
+pleasures, the more receptive does his soul become for all that is
+marvellous and beautiful, as from day to day they present themselves in
+new and unexpected phases.</p>
+
+<p>The same evening the <i>Magdalena</i> resumed her voyage, and about noon on the
+19th we passed the renowned "Needles," and in two hours afterwards reached
+Southampton. Dire was the confusion on board, each person wishing to have
+his own trunk conveyed on shore the first. I found with my voluminous
+boxes the most courteous consideration. It sufficed to explain the object
+of my travels to have all my luggage passed without examination. For down
+to the English Custom House officials, who are not, it must be confessed,
+prone to show much tenderness to travellers' baggage, extends that
+honourable feeling of respect for science which Englishmen of all grades
+seem to entertain. The same evening I reached London.</p>
+
+<p>As the next steamer for Gibraltar was not to leave for eight days, I
+immediately started to London, and availed myself of this opportunity to
+renew old acquaintance, and make up my leeway as regarded the important
+strides and valuable discoveries made in the fields of science during my
+long absence from Europe. The warm interest and cordial reception I met
+with from such gentlemen as Sir Roderick
+<!--460.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_448" id="Page_448">448</a></span>Murchison,
+General Sabine, Sir
+Charles Lyell, Professor Owen, Dr. Gray, Mr. Henry Reeve, Mr. Crawford,
+Mr. John Murray, Mr. Ellis, and many others, was the most gratifying and
+conclusive evidence of the interest and high expectations which the
+<i>Novara</i> Expedition had excited among scientific circles in England.</p>
+
+<p>On 27th July I embarked on board the P. and O. Company's steamer <i>Behar</i>,
+Captain Black, <i>en route</i> to Gibraltar, which I reached after a passage of
+4&nbsp;<sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> days, and, what is still more curious, by a singular coincidence, at
+the very same moment when the <i>Novara</i>, with every stitch of canvas set,
+was proudly careering through the famous Straits!! As the noble frigate
+shot past our steamer, Captain Black saluted, and was so thoughtfully kind
+as to signal the <i>Novara</i> that I was among his passengers. Very soon
+after, both ships anchored in the roads of Gibraltar. In the course of my
+overland journey from Valparaiso to Gibraltar, I had travelled 8832
+nautical miles, and had been but 29 days actually travelling.</p>
+
+<p>I now felt pervaded by a sentiment of profoundest gratitude to a
+benevolent fate, which had led me safely and pleasantly through so many
+dangers till I rejoined that Expedition with which not alone the best and
+happiest remembrances of my life are henceforth associated, but which
+opened to me the unspeakably gratifying prospect of being better able to
+contribute, by extended knowledge and experience, to the advancement of
+science in my native land!</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_120_120" id="Footnote_120_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120_120"><span class="label">[120]</span></a> The
+fares, first class (including provisions and bedding,
+but without wine), are as follows:
+</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">Miles</td><td align="center">Dols.</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">£</td><td align="center"><i>s.</i></td><td align="center"><i>d.</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Valparaiso to Callao de Lima</td><td align="center">1467</td><td align="center">95</td><td align="center">or</td><td align="center">19</td><td align="center">19</td><td align="center">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Callao to Panama</td><td align="center">1594</td><td align="center">110</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">23</td><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Aspinwall (E. coast of Isthmus of Panama) to St. Thomas, and thence to Southampton</td><td align="center">4572</td><td align="center">360</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">75</td><td align="center">12</td><td align="center">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Total, exclusive of 49 miles of rail from Colon to Panama</td><td align="center">7633</td><td align="center">565</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">118</td><td align="center">13</td><td align="center">0</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_121_121" id="Footnote_121_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121_121"><span class="label">[121]</span></a> Hitherto, the coal procured at Lota in the south of Chile
+has been neglected, in consequence of the freight being so heavy that it
+is cheaper to import coals from England and North America.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_122_122" id="Footnote_122_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122_122"><span class="label">[122]</span></a> See "On the Source and Supply of Cubic Saltpetre, or
+Nitrate of Soda, and its use in small quantities as a Restorative to
+Corn-crops, by Philip Pusey." London, W. Clowes and Sons, 1853.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_123_123" id="Footnote_123_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123_123"><span class="label">[123]</span></a> The proportion as found along the coast is 93 to 95 per
+cent. of saltpetre, to 7 to 5 per cent. of earth.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_124_124" id="Footnote_124_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124_124"><span class="label">[124]</span></a> The export, however, is constantly increasing. In 1858 it
+amounted to 61,000 tons, in 1859 to 78,000, of which 22,500 tons went to
+England, 15,200 to France, and the remainder to Germany.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_125_125" id="Footnote_125_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125_125"><span class="label">[125]</span></a> From Arica there are bridle-paths to Potosi, Oruru,
+Cochabamba, La Paz, Chuquisaca, and Calamaca, probably the highest
+inhabited point of the earth's surface, where a population of 800 souls
+live at an elevation of 13,800 feet above the level of the sea.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_126_126" id="Footnote_126_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126_126"><span class="label">[126]</span></a> The volcano of Arequipa is 10,500 feet above its base, but
+18,000 above sea-level.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_127_127" id="Footnote_127_127"></a><a href="#FNanchor_127_127"><span class="label">[127]</span></a> "Peru; Sketches of Travel, 1839-42, by J. J. v. Tschudi."
+St. Gall, 1846: Vol. i. p. 335. Also, "Investigations on the Fauna of
+Peru." St. Gall, 1844-46. The author from personal observation speaks as
+follows of these singular sand-columns, whirling along before the wind.
+"Driving before a strong wind, the <i>medanos</i> speedily overleap all
+barriers, the lighter and more easily-propelled preceding the heavier like
+an advanced guard. Sometimes they are hurled against each other, when, so
+soon as they meet, they are dashed violently together, and break up
+simultaneously. Frequently a flat <i>stretch</i> of ground is covered within a
+few hours by a row of sand-hills, which within a day or two more resume
+their level monotonous appearance. The most experienced guides
+consequently become confused as to the way, and it is they who the soonest
+give way to despair as they wander blindly about among the sand-hills. The
+small mountain-spurs, by which the country is traversed from W. to E.,
+afford some sort of clue, but these oases are few and far between in the
+sterile wilderness around."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_128_128" id="Footnote_128_128"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128_128"><span class="label">[128]</span></a> The ordinary mode of writing the word "Guano" is erroneous,
+as already remarked by Tschudi, as the Quichua language, to which the word
+belongs, is deficient in the consonant G, among others. The Spaniards
+first converted into a G the strongly aspirated H of the original, while
+the last syllable "nu," which so frequently terminates the words adopted
+from the Quichua, was changed by them into "no."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_129_129" id="Footnote_129_129"></a><a href="#FNanchor_129_129"><span class="label">[129]</span></a> Only the immense numbers of sea-fowl, their extraordinary
+voracity, and the bounteous provision for supplying them with food, can
+furnish any possible explanation of the enormous mass accumulated here,
+even allowing for such a lapse of time. Mr. Tschudi, in the course of his
+travels in Peru, once kept for several days a live <i>Sula variegata</i>, which
+he was continually feeding with fish. He carefully collected the
+excrement, when, notwithstanding these birds eat much less in captivity
+than in a state of nature, it voided in a day from 3 <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> to 5 oz.!
+According to other investigations in natural history, it seems that the
+pelican eats 20 lbs. a day of fish.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_130_130" id="Footnote_130_130"></a><a href="#FNanchor_130_130"><span class="label">[130]</span></a> Beds of guano have also been discovered lately by Captain
+Ord at the Kooria-Mooria Islands, on the south coast of Arabia, in 18° N.
+56° E., 850 miles E.N.E. of Aden. Here any ship can load this valuable
+cargo on paying a duty of £2 per ton to the English Government, which has
+recently established a colony at the bay and islands of that name, and has
+made it a coaling station. But the African guano is by no means so strong
+or so pungent a manure as that found on the rainless coasts of Peru, where
+certain peculiarities of climate combine to make it less liable to
+diminution of its saline virtues by dissolution or liquefaction.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_131_131" id="Footnote_131_131"></a><a href="#FNanchor_131_131"><span class="label">[131]</span></a> The day on which Lima was founded by Pizarro was the 6th
+January, 1534, which according to the Catholic calendar is that dedicated
+to the Three Kings of Cologne, whence, in conformity with the religious
+customs of the period, the city was named "Ciudad de los Reyes" (City of
+the Kings).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_132_132" id="Footnote_132_132"></a><a href="#FNanchor_132_132"><span class="label">[132]</span></a> I feel it a pleasant duty to express here publicly how much
+I am indebted to the representatives of this celebrated firm in the
+different ports of South America, and to the head of the house in London,
+for the kind and generous manner in which this gentleman endeavoured to
+facilitate and advance the objects I had in view.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_133_133" id="Footnote_133_133"></a><a href="#FNanchor_133_133"><span class="label">[133]</span></a> One of the most distinguished physicians of the capital,
+Dr. Archibald Smith, has collected some interesting particulars, with the
+dates, respecting the outbreak of these fearful maladies, which we intend
+to publish elsewhere.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_134_134" id="Footnote_134_134"></a><a href="#FNanchor_134_134"><span class="label">[134]</span></a> This institution is also in charge of the Sisters of
+Charity. There were only some ten or twelve children in course of
+education, who, however, seemed to be in excellent health and well fed.
+When I expressed to the lady superintendent my astonishment that the
+establishment was not more extensively patronized, she replied, "<i>Los
+niños se crian en la Calle!</i>" (The children are here brought up in the
+streets.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_135_135" id="Footnote_135_135"></a><a href="#FNanchor_135_135"><span class="label">[135]</span></a> There are in Lima 46 private lying-in establishments. The
+mothers are extremely loth to separate from their children, and if great
+difficulty be experienced in getting wet-nurses, this is to be attributed
+far more to the love of the mothers for their children than to strict
+morality among the mass of the population.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_136_136" id="Footnote_136_136"></a><a href="#FNanchor_136_136"><span class="label">[136]</span></a> A Peruvian author, Don J. A. Delavalle, gives in one of his
+works the following severe, yet faithful, portraiture of the state of
+letters in his native country:&mdash;"En un país en el que el cultivo de las
+letras ni constituye una profesion, ni crea una posicion social, ni
+procura lo necesario&mdash;no decimos para lucrar con ella&mdash;para conseguir el
+sustento para la vida, nos admiraremos de que haya quien escriba en Lima,
+y reputaremos como extraordinario el número de obras que han salido de sus
+prensas en 1860, por muy pequeño que este haya sido. Sin proteccion, pues,
+y sin estimulo, ni oficial, ni social, ¿ qué se podrá esperar de las
+letras Peruanas?" (<i>Translation of the foregoing.</i>) "In a country where
+the cultivation of letters is not a profession by itself, where literature
+confers no social position, and barely procures the necessaries of
+life,&mdash;we do not speak of realizing competence and independence,&mdash;we
+marvel there should be any one in Lima who writes at all, and we consider
+little less than extraordinary the number of books which have issued from
+its press in 1860, insignificant as the sum total may be. Without
+protection, without influence, and without stimulus, official or social,
+who can suffer himself to hope for a better future for Peruvian
+literature?" (Compare Peru in 1860, in the National Annual Register, by
+Alfredo G. Leubel, Lima, 1861.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_137_137" id="Footnote_137_137"></a><a href="#FNanchor_137_137"><span class="label">[137]</span></a> Pachacamác, the invisible God, i. e. "he who created the
+earth out of nothing."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_138_138" id="Footnote_138_138"></a><a href="#FNanchor_138_138"><span class="label">[138]</span></a> In Cañete, an Indian village of 9000 inhabitants, 60
+English miles from Lurin, there are also numerous Peruvian architectural
+memorials, as also an antique temple of idols, which have never been
+carefully examined. On my return to Lima, I was shown the mummy of a very
+young child, which Don Juan Quiros, deputy from the province of Cañete,
+had brought to the capital with him from his own home. The little corpse,
+quite mummified, lay in a beautiful, neatly-plaited little basket, and was
+swathed in layers of fine variegated cloth. On both sides lay toys of
+various kinds, attesting not alone the tenderness of the mother for her
+dead offspring, but also that a high degree of artistic taste and finish
+had been attained.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_139_139" id="Footnote_139_139"></a><a href="#FNanchor_139_139"><span class="label">[139]</span></a> According to the "Estadistica general de Lima" (1858) of M.
+Fuentes, Lima has a population of 94,195, all told; according to the
+"Anuario Nacional" of A. Leubel for 1861, only 85,116 souls, who inhabit a
+surface of 6523.597 square Varas (Spanish). The entire population of Peru
+can hardly exceed 1,900,000, but a reliable census has never yet been
+made.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_140_140" id="Footnote_140_140"></a><a href="#FNanchor_140_140"><span class="label">[140]</span></a> Once during my stay in Lima I had an opportunity of
+conversing with Don Ramon. He had come up from his country-seat, or rather
+from the roulette-table of Chorillos, to the capital, and was courteous
+enough to accord me a reception at his house. After passing a couple of
+sentinels, I was ushered through a large bare room into a small
+ill-lighted apartment on the ground-floor, when I found myself suddenly
+face to face with the President of the Peruvian Republic. I was presented
+by a friend settled in Lima. The General is a mestizo with a
+strongly-marked brown Indian visage, projecting cheek-bones, and an arched
+nose, wiry grey hair kept close cropped, and energetic, but withal coarse
+features. He is so far entitled to gratitude, that during the few years he
+has swayed the destinies of the Republic, he has maintained internal
+tranquillity. But there still remains the saddening feeling, borne out by
+the actual state of matters, that a territory over which Spanish grandees
+and viceroys once held sway, is at present ruled by an Indian half-breed,
+who can scarcely read and write. In manners and general appearance, Don
+Ramon Castilla strongly reminded me of his dusky confrère, General Rafael
+Carrera, President of Guatemala, with whose despotic tendencies he may be
+said fully to sympathize.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_141_141" id="Footnote_141_141"></a><a href="#FNanchor_141_141"><span class="label">[141]</span></a> Thus too it is the predominance of the pure Spanish type
+and the extent of foreign immigration, which render the future of Chile so
+hopeful.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_142_142" id="Footnote_142_142"></a><a href="#FNanchor_142_142"><span class="label">[142]</span></a> Vide E. Pöppig, Travels in Chile, Peru, and down the
+Amazon, vol. ii. p. 248.&mdash;Von Tschudi, Sketches of Peruvian Travel, vol.
+ii. p. 290.&mdash;Weddell, Travels in Northern Bolivia in 1853, p. 514.&mdash;Von
+Bibra, Narcotics and their Influence on Man.&mdash;History of the Expedition of
+M. Castelnau in the Central Territories of South America. Paris, 1850,
+vol. iii. p. 349.&mdash;Dr. Paul Montegazza, "Researches into the Hygienic and
+Medicinal Properties of Coca. Annali de Medicina, March, 1859."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_143_143" id="Footnote_143_143"></a><a href="#FNanchor_143_143"><span class="label">[143]</span></a> This custom of the Aymara Indians, not less universal than
+extraordinary, of standing on their heads after long and fatiguing
+marches, seems to be the result of an instinct which teaches them how best
+to mitigate the severe pressure of the blood.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_144_144" id="Footnote_144_144"></a><a href="#FNanchor_144_144"><span class="label">[144]</span></a> The mail goes four times a month from La Paz to Tacna, and
+usually weighs 25 lbs., which the courier carries on his back and delivers
+within some five or six days, without other nourishment than that already
+specified!</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_145_145" id="Footnote_145_145"></a><a href="#FNanchor_145_145"><span class="label">[145]</span></a> The Aymara Indian rarely uses animal food, as to do so he
+would require to kill one of his beloved Llamas. His chief food consists
+of roasted <i>Chuño</i>, a small bitter species of potato, which flourishes
+only on the barren, rugged plateau of the Andes inhabited by the Aymara,
+where neither the common potato nor the maize continue to grow; even
+barley, which the Spaniards introduced, ceases to thrive. Their only other
+food is a species of moss, which grows in the swamps, and is called by the
+natives "<i>Lanta</i>." Under such alimentary conditions, it is readily
+intelligible why the Aymara have a predilection for coca balls
+(<i>acullica</i>), which (as sailors and others do with us, with tobacco) they
+keep continually rolling about in their mouths, and which, as soon as the
+whole of the juice has been sucked out, is thrown away and replaced by a
+fresh "quid." The juice of the green leaves diluted with oceans of saliva
+is usually swallowed. An Indian chews on the average an ounce to an ounce
+and a half per diem, but on feast-days double that quantity.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_146_146" id="Footnote_146_146"></a><a href="#FNanchor_146_146"><span class="label">[146]</span></a> Cocain is precipitated in colourless inodorous prismatic
+crystals. It is with difficulty soluble in water, but melts readily in
+alcohol, and with still more facility in ether. When dissolved in alcohol,
+the solution becomes a strong alkaline reagent, and has a peculiar
+slightly bitter taste. When brought in contact with the nerves of the
+tongue, it possesses the singular property of deadening sensation after a
+few seconds have elapsed, in the part to which it has been applied, which
+for a time becomes almost void of feeling. It fuses at a temperature of
+208°.4 Fahr., and in cooling resumes its former prismatic crystalline
+form. When heated beyond this temperature, it changes to a reddish hue,
+and volatilizes with a strong ammoniacal odour. Only a small portion seems
+to get liberated by the destructive process. When heated on a platinum
+disc, it burns away with a bright flame, leaving no residuum. Cocain
+completely neutralizes acids, although most of the resulting salts seem to
+crystallize with difficulty, and to remain for a considerable time in an
+amorphous state. The resultant chloride seemed the most readily formed as
+well as delicately shaped of the crystals. Cocain exposed in chlorine is
+followed by such a development of heat that the former is fused. (Compare
+"Cocain, an Organic Base in the Coca," letter of Professor F. Wöhler to W.
+Haidinger, acting Fellow of the Imperial Academy of Sciences, presented at
+the meeting of the Class of Mathematics and Physical Science, 8th March,
+1860. See also "On a New Organic Base in the Coca-leaves," Inaugural
+dissertation on attaining the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at Göttingen,
+by Albert Niemann of Goslar. Printed at the Göttingen Press, 1860.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_147_147" id="Footnote_147_147"></a><a href="#FNanchor_147_147"><span class="label">[147]</span></a> According to Wöhler, this fluid substance admits of being
+distilled even along with water; its odour strongly recalls Trimethylamin;
+it is a strong alkaline reagent, but is not bitter to the taste, and forms
+a white cloud when acids are poured upon it. Its chloride crystallizes
+readily, but is very volatile. With chloride of platina it forms a
+flocculent uncrystallized precipitate, which decomposes on the liquid
+being heated. With chloride of quicksilver, it assumes a dim milky
+appearance, which is caused by the formation of a substance resembling
+drops of oil. Hygrin is not poisonous; a few drops given to a rabbit were
+followed by no perceptible symptoms.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_148_148" id="Footnote_148_148"></a><a href="#FNanchor_148_148"><span class="label">[148]</span></a> As, judging by the experiments hitherto made, cocain seems
+to consist of two atoms in juxta-position, there is reason to conjecture
+that it is destined to be the source of a large number of products of
+transformation. It is highly probable, as Wöhler has remarked, that cocain
+may yet be <i>artificially</i> made by a mixture of hygrin with Benzoic acid,
+or rather with one of the substances forming part of the Benzoyle group.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_149_149" id="Footnote_149_149"></a><a href="#FNanchor_149_149"><span class="label">[149]</span></a> See Von Tschudi <i>ut suprà</i>, vol. ii. 309.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_150_150" id="Footnote_150_150"></a><a href="#FNanchor_150_150"><span class="label">[150]</span></a> I append here the most important points on which
+information is sought respecting the climatic and other conditions of the
+various Cinchona species as cultivated in South America, concerning which
+Dr. Junghuhn needed more correct information, and can but express the
+hope, that, should curiosity or destiny lead the steps of any one of my
+more earnest readers to Peru, he may succeed by his own observation in
+solving these questions, my inability to aid more effectively in which has
+been to me a source of deep mortification. The learned naturalist of Java
+furnished me with the following particulars:&mdash;
+</p><p>
+"What it behoves us especially to ascertain, respecting which Hasskarl has
+observed nothing, and Weddell furnishes no accurate information, is
+comprised in the following questions:
+</p><p>
+1. What are the highest and lowest limits of the <i>Cinchona Calisaya</i>, or
+at all events, what is the altitude of the region in which it most
+abounds?
+</p><p>
+2. What is the unvarying warmth of the soil, as observed at a depth of 5
+feet below the surface?
+</p><p>
+3. On what soil does it grow most abundantly and luxuriantly? Does it
+affect rich black mould, in moist forcing soils, or rather dry, stony,
+barren soils? Does it grow on steep acclivities, or does it seem to prefer
+gentle slopes or level ground? Can specimens of the soil be procured? What
+is the description of the rock formation, trachytic, granitic, or gneiss,
+or are slate or sandstone the characteristic formations?
+</p><p>
+4. What are the general meteorological conditions, and what is the annual
+amount of rain-fall? For how many and during what months does it rain, and
+during what period of the day are the showers heaviest? Does it rain for
+months at a time, and for how many, and during what months? Or does it not
+rain at all, in which case is its place supplied by regular afternoon
+storms? How many days of rain are there in the rainy season of that
+particular region of the tropical zone? Are the nights and forenoons, as
+in Java, usually clear until noon? Is it known whether observations have
+ever been made by the Spanish Creoles as to the amount and duration of the
+rain-fall? A correct knowledge of the amount of moisture and rain-fall of
+the Calisaya district is of special importance to all engaged in the
+cultivation of that plant. Further, frequent observations must be made
+with the psychrometer in the morning before sunrise, between nine and ten
+o'clock, at the hour of maximum of temperature, and in the evening, in the
+forest and in the open ground, that these may afterwards be compared with
+mine in Java.
+</p><p>
+5. Does the Calisaya prefer the deepest shadows of the forest, does it
+grow there quite apart from other trees, or is it more frequently found in
+the open spaces where it is warmed by the sun's rays, such places being
+usually rather clear of trees? Does it grow solitary, or is it found in
+groups or clusters, and are its special peculiarities in this respect
+observable in every forest? Is it observed to be more numerous towards the
+edge of the forest, and does it evince a tendency to extend thence over
+the grass, the drift, the plateaux, &amp;c., and what alterations do these
+make in its habits?
+</p><p>
+6. Information is wanted as to the month in which the Calisaya blossoms,
+and that in which the fruit ripens, as also what length of time usually
+elapses between the first appearance of the buds and the shedding of the
+<i>corolla</i>, and from the shedding of the <i>corolla</i> to the bursting, i. e.
+the complete maturity of the capsules. It would seem that in Java it takes
+a much longer time, as also that it blossoms at an entirely different
+season from that in which it blossoms in its native regions.
+</p><p>
+7. Much anxiety is felt as to whether it is possible to ascertain with
+accuracy how many years old, as also what are the usual height and the
+diameter (at the base of the trunk) of a Calisaya tree, when it first
+begins to blossom, and whether these first blossoms are developed into
+ripe fruit, with seeds capable of fertilization.
+</p><p>
+8. How high, how thick, and how old are&mdash;
+</p><p>
+<i>a.</i> The youngest and smallest, and
+</p><p>
+<i>b.</i> The largest and oldest,
+</p><p>
+Calisaya trees, which are now felled for their bark in South America? What
+description of bark is the most prized, that from the young and slender,
+or that from the larger and older trees? Also whether the bark of a very
+young tree, e. g. four years old, contain thus early the active principle,
+genuine?
+</p><p>
+9. As, judging by appearances, it has been rightly assumed that the bark
+of any given description of Cinchona is found to be more abundantly
+provided with alkaloid, especially quinine, the greater the elevation
+above the sea, and becomes impoverished in these respects in proportion as
+a lower level and a warmer climate are reached, it is desirable that
+special observations should be made for the elucidation of these
+particulars.
+</p><p>
+10. It is desirable information should be got from the China bark
+collectors (Cascarilleros) of Peru, as to the natural foes of the Cinchona
+plant, especially C. Calisaya, and it appears likewise important to
+ascertain whether the Calisaya is there also liable to be injured and
+bored into by mites and other noxious insects.
+</p><p>
+11. It is highly desirable that all the above recommended observations
+made respecting Cinchona Calisaya, may also be applied to <i>all other</i>
+species of Cinchona that may occur in South America, of which those
+ranking next in interest and importance to us in Java, and which have been
+planted here, are C. <i>Condaminea, var. lucumæfolia</i>, <i>laurifolia</i>,
+<i>lanceolata</i>, as also C. <i>cordifolia</i>, C. <i>ovata</i>, and <i>var.
+erythroderma</i>.
+</p><p>
+12. Is the pure red China bark actually obtained from the C. <i>ovata, var.
+erythroderma</i> of Weddell, as would appear from an article by Howard in
+"the Pharmaceutical Journal for October, 1856?" The leaves of that variety
+have the most resemblance to those of the three young trees brought over,
+which we now possess in Java, and which I have spoken of as <i>Cinchona
+cordifolia</i>.
+</p><p>
+13. The experiments in acclimatization of the above-named species in Java,
+especially in Western Java, which, it must be admitted, has a very much
+more moist, rainy climate than Peru, and still more so than Southern
+Bolivia, where the Calisaya chiefly grows, have already undergone several
+phases, and it has successfully struggled with numerous obstacles, some
+natural, others the result of failures of the earliest cultivators. The
+species named C. <i>Condaminea, var. lucumæfolia</i>, has shown itself more
+susceptible of being acclimatized than the C. <i>Calisaya</i>, and at present
+(May, 1858) promises to produce from 50,000 to 70,000 ripe fruit, within a
+few weeks, all fit for reproduction. Apparently the climate and other
+physical conditions of the locality in Java, where the cultivation has
+been carried on, have corresponded with those natural conditions which
+enable this plant to grow so abundantly in its native soil of Peru."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_151_151" id="Footnote_151_151"></a><a href="#FNanchor_151_151"><span class="label">[151]</span></a> The name dates from the time when what is now Bolivia (in
+the forest of which the China tree chiefly grows) formed an integral
+portion of Peru, and was in fact called Upper Peru, whereas from that
+which is now called Peru, hardly any bark is exported, while that found in
+New Granada and Ecuador, whence it is exported to Spain under the name of
+Pitaya, is a species of very inferior quality for medicinal purposes.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_152_152" id="Footnote_152_152"></a><a href="#FNanchor_152_152"><span class="label">[152]</span></a> The name, Countess' powder, which was given to the drug
+owing to its use by a certain Countess Chinchon (wife of a Peruvian
+viceroy), was afterwards altered to Cardinal's or Jesuit's powder, in
+consequence of the Procurator-general of the order of Jesus, Cardinal de
+Lugo, having, during his passage through France, everywhere made known the
+virtues of the drug, and recommended it to the particular attention of
+Cardinal Mazarin, as the brethren of the order had begun to drive quite a
+lucrative trade in South American China bark, which they had carried on by
+their missionaries. V. Humboldt's "<i>Ansichten der Natur</i>," third edition,
+1849, vol. ii. p. 372.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_153_153" id="Footnote_153_153"></a><a href="#FNanchor_153_153"><span class="label">[153]</span></a> See Humboldt's Ansichten der Natur. Third edition. 1849.
+Vol. ii. p. 319.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_154_154" id="Footnote_154_154"></a><a href="#FNanchor_154_154"><span class="label">[154]</span></a> Señor Emilio Escobar of Lima sent me a small flask of a
+hitherto little-known vegetable stuff, which gives very much the same dye
+as the cochineal insect, and is found in great abundance throughout Peru.
+I have added this bottle of dye, which at all events merits more minute
+investigation, to the other collections of the <i>Novara</i> Expedition.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_155_155" id="Footnote_155_155"></a><a href="#FNanchor_155_155"><span class="label">[155]</span></a> In 1859, there were forwarded, according to official
+documents:
+</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td>From Aspinwall<br />to Panama.</td><td align="right">From Panama<br />to Aspinwall.</td><td align="right">Totals.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Passengers</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">23,206</td><td align="right">16,567</td><td align="right">39,773</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Bullion</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td align="right">3,146,983</td><td align="right">57,097,061</td><td align="right">60,244,044</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Mail parcels of the U.S.</td><td align="center">pounds</td><td align="right">643,752</td><td align="right">184,395</td><td align="right">828,147</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Mail parcels of England</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right">47,060</td><td align="right">8,824</td><td align="right">55,884</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Merchandise</td><td align="center">tons</td><td align="right">17,278</td><td align="right">3,802</td><td align="right">21,080</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Coal.</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="right">7,618</td><td align="right">-&nbsp;</td><td align="right">7,618</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Personal baggage</td><td align="center">pounds</td><td align="right">67,698</td><td align="right">62,581</td><td align="right">130,279</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_156_156" id="Footnote_156_156"></a><a href="#FNanchor_156_156"><span class="label">[156]</span></a> The cost of keeping in repair is not less than £100,000 per
+annum, owing to the destroying energies of the atmosphere and of insects,
+as also of the rapid growth of vegetation, to keep which under employs not
+less than 3000 labourers.</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_157_157" id="Footnote_157_157"></a><a href="#FNanchor_157_157"><span class="label">[157]</span></a> The statistics of mortality among the various races on the
+Isthmus for the year 1858 give the following results.
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="center">Of the</td><td align="left">natives, there die annually</td><td align="center">1 in 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">immigrant negroes</td><td align="center">1 in 40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">Coolies</td><td align="center">1 in 40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">Europeans</td><td align="center">1 in 30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">Chinese</td><td align="center">1 in 10</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--461.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_449" id="Page_449">449</a></span></p>
+
+<div style="position: absolute; left: 50%; margin-left: -333.5px;
+width: 667px; height: 604px; background-image: url('images/illu461.png');
+background-color: transparent;"><a name="illu461" id="illu461"></a>
+<span style="position: relative; top: -1em;">The Austrian Eagle</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="icba" style="width: 667px; height: 604px;"></div>
+
+<h2 style="clear: none;"><a name="XXIII" id="XXIII"></a>XXIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="c2" style="clear: none;">From Gibraltar to Trieste.</div>
+
+<div class="c3" style="clear: none;"><span class="smcap">From 7th to 26th August, 1859.</span></div>
+
+<div class="ChapDescr" style="clear: none;">
+First circumstantial details of the War of 1859.&mdash;Alterations in
+Gibraltar since our previous visit.&mdash;Science and
+Warfare.&mdash;Voyage through the Mediterranean.&mdash;Messina.&mdash;The
+<i>Novara</i> taken in tow by the War-steamer
+<i>Lucia</i>.&mdash;Gravosa.&mdash;Ragusa.&mdash;Arrival of H.I.H. the Archduke
+Ferdinand Maximilian at Gravosa.&mdash;Presentation of the
+Staff.&mdash;Banquet on board the screw-corvette
+<i>Dandolo</i>.&mdash;Pola.&mdash;Roman Amphitheatre.&mdash;Porta Aurea.&mdash;Triumphal
+return to Trieste.&mdash;Retrospect of the achievements and general
+scientific results of the Expedition.&mdash;Concluding Remarks.
+</div>
+
+<p>Eighty-two days elapsed between the departure of the <i>Novara</i> from
+Valparaiso and her arrival in the harbour of Gibraltar. They had been as
+many days of dreadful trial and disaster for our country! While the good
+ship was careering along in mid ocean, and in an unusually short space of
+time had sailed over 10,600 nautical miles, the fortune
+<!--462.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450">450</a></span>of
+arms had gone
+against our House, and we now heard for the first time of the desperate
+battles, the heavy losses, the sudden armistice of Villafranca! The
+Commodore at once telegraphed to Trieste the news of our arrival, and
+asked for further instructions.</p>
+
+<p>Among our friends and acquaintances at Gibraltar many changes and
+alterations had taken place. The former Governor, Sir James Ferguson, had
+in the interim been replaced by Sir W. Codrington. The Austrian Consul,
+the estimable Mr. Longlands Cowell, was dead, and in his stead Mr. Frembly
+attended provisionally to the duties of the office.</p>
+
+<p>The heads of the community, the Governor, the staff, Mr. Creswell,
+Postmaster-General, Mr. Frembly, &amp;c., paid us marked attention on our
+present visit. Singular to say, no one here seemed to be aware of our
+having been declared neutral by most of the European powers, thanks to the
+far-sighted circumspection of the projector of the voyage, and
+consequently some apprehension had been felt lest some warships of the
+enemy might have encountered the <i>Novara</i> in American waters. But albeit
+of late years we have been pretty well accustomed to see even written
+treaties trodden underfoot, yet, in the present instance, the capture of
+the <i>Novara</i> had been stringently prohibited to all French cruisers. For
+even in the Tuileries the consequences of such an abuse of power had been
+well foreseen; it was felt moreover even there, that in our time the most
+powerful can no longer dispense with science or disregard its interests,
+that any violence
+<!--463.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451">451</a></span>offered
+to her votaries is an outrage upon mankind and
+civilization. So great, indeed, was the anxiety felt at Paris to avoid any
+possible collision with the <i>Novara</i>, that in addition to the existing
+declaration of neutrality, special orders were dispatched by the French
+Government, and from amid the din of battle and the thunder of artillery,
+the word went forth: "The <i>Novara</i> may proceed unmolested, for she is
+freighted with scientific treasures, and science is the common benefit of
+all nations!"</p>
+
+<p>On 7th of August, a telegraphic dispatch was received in the course of the
+morning from the Lord High Admiral, with instructions for the <i>Novara</i> to
+proceed under sail to Messina, where a war-steamer would be in waiting to
+take us in tow. The same afternoon we weighed anchor on our way up the
+Mediterranean.</p>
+
+<p>On 15th August we sighted the northern shores of Sicily, and the same
+evening could plainly perceive the brilliant red lights of the newly
+erected lighthouse on Cape San Vito, the extreme N.W. point of the island.
+Diversified by frequent calms, and but occasionally favoured with gentle
+breezes, our progress was necessarily very slow. On the 16th we passed the
+island of Ustica, and the following day the Lipari Islands, and at last,
+about 7 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> of the 18th, we reached the Straits of Messina. A pilot who
+came on board informed us that an Austrian war-steamer was lying off
+Messina. Orders were now given to fire a few blank shot, to advise her
+commander of our arrival in the Straits, after which we resumed our
+<!--464.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_452" id="Page_452">452</a></span>course.
+A few hours more and we were in tow of the steamer, which proved
+to be the <i>Lucia</i>, the same vessel which upwards of two years before had
+brought us as far as Messina on our outward voyage. We now received
+letters from friends and relatives at home, as also the customary and
+inevitable poetical effusion, which some sailor poet had written on "The
+Return of the <i>Novara</i>."</p>
+
+<p>On the night of the 19th August we were off Cape Santa Maria di Leuca,
+which marks the entrance of the Adriatic Gulf, and in the afternoon of the
+following day passed Caste Nuovo near Cattaro, and the same night anchored
+in the harbour of Gravosa in Dalmatia. The captain of the <i>Lucia</i> had been
+dispatched to bring us hither, there to wait further orders.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, Sunday, 21st August, the naturalists and superior
+officers made an excursion to the highly interesting city of Ragusa, only
+a few miles distant, which communicates with Gravosa by a beautiful wide
+well-kept road. For the first time in 28 months our feet once more trod
+our native soil.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning, about nine, the imperial steam yacht <i>Fantasie</i> came into
+port, with H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian on board, accompanied
+by the Archduchess. The Lord High Admiral stood on the paddle-box, and
+saluted us most heartily, repeatedly waving his cap, to which the crew of
+the <i>Novara</i> replied by a shout that made the welkin
+<!--465.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453">453</a></span>ring.
+The
+screw-corvette <i>Dandolo</i> shortly after anchored near us.</p>
+
+<p>About noon the Archduke came on board, and inspected the crew and ship,
+after which he expressed himself in the most kind terms to the officers of
+the ship and the scientific corps of the expedition. The Archduchess
+afterwards had a levee, at which the officers and naturalists had the
+honour of being presented to her Highness, who addressed to each a few
+gracious words of welcome and interest.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening there was an elegant banquet of forty covers, at which the
+Archduke presided, his consort also sharing in the festivities, during
+which his Highness distinguished the members of the Expedition in
+proposing the toast, "The men of the <i>Novara</i>, whose names will belong to
+Austrian history."</p>
+
+<p>On 23rd August our frigate, accompanied by the <i>Lucia</i> and the
+screw-corvette <i>Dandolo</i>, sailed for Pola. Shortly before our departure
+the Archduke again came on board, and himself brought with him a long list
+of promotions. The entire crew were promoted one grade, and all the
+midshipmen were made officers.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th August we passed, during the morning, the light-tower of
+Promontore, standing on a solitary rock that rises out of the sea, hardly
+a cable's length from the shore, and at 11 reached Pola, the chief naval
+arsenal of Austria. Here we availed ourselves of the stoppage to visit
+some of the classical monuments of
+Pola.<!--466.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454">454</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Few cities can present better-preserved or more extensive mementoes of
+Roman architecture than this, the ancient <i>Pietas Julia</i>, so named because
+shortly after its destruction by Julius Cæsar, it was rebuilt at the
+instance of Julia, the daughter of Augustus. The majestic amphitheatre, of
+elliptical form, rises on the slope of the hills, so that to remedy the
+inequality of the ground the portion next the sea is held up by a
+succession of buttresses. The dazzling white of the stone does not present
+any traces by which one would guess its age. This relic of antiquity is in
+far better preservation than the Colosseum of Rome, or the Amphitheatre of
+Verona, and would have been far more perfect had it not been used as a
+stone-quarry during the days of Venetian supremacy, when entire ship-loads
+of this brilliant white stone were transported to Venice, there to be used
+as building material.</p>
+
+<p>Near the amphitheatre, on the side next the city, the stranger is struck
+by another beautiful edifice, the <i>Porta Aurea</i> (golden gate), a
+monumental structure in the Corinthian style, which, according to one of
+the inscriptions, was erected by his widow, Salvia, at her own expense, in
+honour of Lucius Sergius Lepidus, tribune. For harmony of proportion,
+richness and elegance of decoration, and perfect preservation, it may be
+cited as one of the best existing specimens of Roman architecture. A
+temple to Augustus and another to Diana also attract the astonished gaze
+of the artist and antiquary, while many another object of classical
+interest lies prostrate on the earth for want of means, or perhaps, more
+probably,
+<!--467.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_455" id="Page_455">455</a></span>through
+indifference. It is highly probable that, with the
+rapid development of the town, some interest will also be taken in
+preserving its antiquities.</p>
+
+<p>The importance of this spacious, easily accessible, secure, and
+well-fortified harbour, induced the Austrian Government during the last
+few years to commence public works on a large scale, which was
+munificently projected and fully carried out, and have resulted in opening
+for Pola a prospect of future importance second to none on the Adriatic,
+making it the Portsmouth of the Austrian Empire.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we again set sail, and about 11 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> of the 26th escorted
+by a squadron of above a dozen ships of war, in two columns, the one led
+by H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, the other by our Commodore,
+we neared the imposing roadstead of Trieste. As the <i>Novara</i> passed
+beneath the walls of the splendid château of Miramar, the residence of the
+Archduke, a guard of artillery saluted the home-returning wanderer, and
+almost immediately afterwards the cannon of the citadel of Trieste
+thundered forth their salute.</p>
+
+<p>A Lloyd's steamer, having on board the principal officials of the city, as
+also a few friends, was now seen wending its way towards us with a band of
+music on board, and fell into the procession. The latter made its way,
+enveloped in clouds of smoke, to the picturesquely-situated city, as far
+as the Bay of Muggia, where each ship let go her anchor in her appointed
+position, and&mdash;<span class="smcap">The voyage was over.</span></p>
+
+<!--468.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_456" id="Page_456">456</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<p>On the transcriber of the foregoing literary detail of the incidents of
+the voyage of the <i>Novara</i> still devolves the task of presenting a brief
+summary of the chief objects aimed at, and the actual scientific results
+attained by the Imperial Expedition, so as to moderate the exaggerated
+expectations of one set of readers, and to rectify the hasty, depreciatory
+judgment of others, by stating obvious and convincing facts.</p>
+
+<p>He feels, above all, compelled to examine the question, which not alone
+criticism but the entire educated world will address with reference to an
+undertaking begun under such auspices and of such universal interest,
+"What are the actual results, and what those to be anticipated from the
+<i>Novara</i> Expedition? How did its members respond to the efforts made to
+provide them with every possible appliance that munificence could supply?"</p>
+
+<p>In order aright to answer this query, whether the first Austrian
+Expedition round the globe has really answered the expectations formed of
+it, it is necessary to bear in mind that its first and foremost object was
+the instruction on an adequate scale of the officers and midshipmen of the
+Imperial navy, and that scientific investigation was always regarded as of
+secondary importance to that chief object.</p>
+
+<p>The descriptive portion of the voyage of the <i>Novara</i> must be considered
+simply as the precursor of a series of scientific publications which,
+thanks to Imperial munificence, will be published at the expense of the
+State. The nautico-physical portion will include the
+astronomico-geodetical, magnetic,
+<!--469.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457">457</a></span>and
+meteorological observations made
+throughout the voyage, and will appear under the auspices of the Imperial
+hydrographic Institution at Trieste.</p>
+
+<p>The abundant materials collected in the departments of natural history,
+statistics, and commercial policy, will be prepared by the various
+gentlemen who accompanied the Expedition, and comprise as many sections as
+there were scientific branches represented on board ship during the
+voyage. These publications will embrace, in a collected form, the
+observations, investigations, and results obtained in the course of the
+entire campaign, relating to Geology, Zoology, Botany, Ethnography and
+Anthropology, Medicine, Statistics, and Trade.</p>
+
+<p>And while these various works can only after their publication admit of a
+just opinion being formed as to what has been achieved in this respect by
+the Expedition, the numerous and valuable collections of objects of
+natural history already give an idea of the activity and research of each
+member of the scientific staff in the course of the voyage.</p>
+
+<p>The zoological collection comprises above 26,000 specimens, partly
+collected by the two zoologists themselves, partly presented or purchased;
+they consist of 320 mammalia, 1500 birds, 950 amphibiæ, 2000 fish, 6550
+conchyliæ, 13,000 insects, 950 crustacea, 500 molluscs, 60 skeletons, 50
+skulls, 120 nests, and 150 eggs.</p>
+
+<p>The botanical portion embraces several very comprehensive and valuable
+<i>herbaria</i> and collections of seeds (in selecting the latter the
+capabilities of the various portions of the Empire were
+<!--470.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_458" id="Page_458">458</a></span>carefully
+borne
+in mind, with reference to the power of propagating the plant), besides a
+large quantity of fruits and flowers of tropical plants, preserved in
+acetic acid or alcohol, as also Indian and Chinese drugs, and specimens of
+ornamental and useful woods.</p>
+
+<p>The mineralogical, petrographical, and palæontological collections consist
+of several thousand specimens of mineralogy and petrifactions, part
+collected by the geologist himself, part presented by scientific
+Institutes, or private donors, or purchased.</p>
+
+<p>The ethnographic collection embraces 376 objects, such as weapons of the
+most diverse form, house utensils and implements of labour, ornaments,
+amulets, carvings, idols, headgears, masks, pieces of clothing, models,
+textile fabrics, manufactures in bark, musical instruments, Cingalese
+manuscripts, as also fragments of palm-leaves, bamboo-reeds, and bark, all
+variously transcribed. Some of these various objects are the more
+interesting, as furnishing, so to speak, the last proofs of the aboriginal
+skill which, in proportion to the increasing intercourse of the savage
+tribes with European civilization, is rapidly diminishing, and in all the
+principal colonies may be considered as already extinguished.</p>
+
+<p>The anthropological collection consists of 100 skulls of various races of
+men, and includes a complete Bushman-skeleton, besides a great variety of
+interesting physiological and pathologico-anatomical preparations.</p>
+
+<p>But it is not merely in its general, nautical, scientific, and
+<!--471.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_459" id="Page_459">459</a></span>politico-economical
+features that the voyage of the <i>Novara</i> has reacted
+in a suggestive and instructing manner upon those who were privileged to
+belong to the Expedition. It has widened the horizon of political
+knowledge, presented the opportunity of instituting interesting
+comparisons between the conditions of the various countries visited, and
+has furnished many an instructive insight into the transmuting process,
+which the possession of civil and religious liberty effects upon the
+material welfare and intellectual energy of every race and land, from pole
+to pole. And although mankind is subjected to the powerful influences of
+climate, nourishment, soil, and natural phenomena in general, yet it is
+not less certain that by freely developing the physical and intellectual
+powers, those influences may be materially limited in extent of operation,
+and modified in practice; so that, while we see a people inhabiting a
+country, where Nature has lavished her utmost treasures of fertility,
+beauty, and loveliness, languishing spiritually and physically under the
+oppression of a despotic power, and the land itself hastening to
+impoverishment and decay, we perceive on the other hand that another, far
+less favourably situated, has been able under free institutions to become
+by its own unaided energy the marvel of all nations, colonizing every
+region of the earth, and extending its commercial and political importance
+over the entire universe.</p>
+
+<p>What a melancholy picture of stagnation and decay is presented by the
+Spanish and Portuguese possessions in Asia,
+<!--472.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_460" id="Page_460">460</a></span>Africa,
+and the West Indies,
+by the Slave-empire of Brazil, and the Hispano-American Republics, with
+their mestizo dictators, as compared with the mighty development and
+glorious promise of the British colonies in Asia, Africa, America, and
+Australia, governed as they are by constitutional laws, and enjoying full
+civil and religious rights! Here the energy of free self-governing men,
+aided by a keen spirit of enterprise and investigation, has obtained a
+victory over all impediments of a primeval nature, and not alone opened to
+European civilization new channels for the extension of commerce and
+industry, but also accomplished important social and political reforms,
+for which many a civilized state in old Europe is still sighing in vain!</p>
+
+<p>And to the German who has circumnavigated the globe, the consideration of
+these lofty themes is mingled with a glow of pride and satisfaction, in
+reflecting that it is a kindred Anglo-Saxon race, to whom apparently has
+been assigned the glorious mission of diffusing a new life over the earth,
+of carrying the light of Christian civilization, of political liberty, and
+spiritual culture, to the most primitive tribes in the furthest regions of
+the world, and of heralding, amid the ruins of slavery and despotism, the
+day-spring of a lasting era of Freedom, Peace, and Prosperity!</p>
+
+<div class="center">THE
+END.</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--473.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461">461</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="VOL_II" id="VOL_II"></a>VOL. II.<br /></h2>
+
+<h3>APPENDIX A.</h3>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding: 1em 0 1em 0;">A VOCABULARY<br />
+
+(ARRANGED UPON GALATIN'S SYSTEM)<br />
+
+OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE NATIVES OF THE NICOBAR ARCHIPELAGO.<a name="FNanchor_158_158"
+id="FNanchor_158_158"></a><a href="#Footnote_158_158" class="fnanchor">[158]</a></div>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left">Name of object in English.</td><td align="center">Dialect used in Kar Nicobar (called <span class="smcap">Puh</span> by the natives). The most northerly island, 9° 10&#8242; N., 93° 36&#8242; E.</td><td align="center">Dialect used in the Central Group, consisting of the islands of Nangkauri, Kamorta, Pulo Milú, Kondúl, and Lesser Nicobar.</td><td align="center">Corresponding words used by the Malay inhabitants of Pulo Penáng, 5° 25&#8242; N., 100° 21&#8242; E.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">God</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">evil spirit</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">eewée</td><td align="center">hontú</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">man</td><td align="center">kigonje</td><td align="center">báhju</td><td align="center">orang</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">people</td><td align="center">tarík</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">woman</td><td align="center">kigána</td><td align="center">angána</td><td align="center">poorampúan</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">old woman</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">angána-oomiáha</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">boy</td><td align="center">lúenda</td><td align="center">kanióom</td><td align="center">booda-kitschí</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">lad</td><td align="center">marengla</td><td align="center">ilúh</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">young girl</td><td align="center">nia-kookána</td><td align="center">kanioóm-angána</td><td align="center">booda-poorampúan</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">child</td><td align="center">niá</td><td align="center">poa</td><td align="center">ana-kitschí</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">father</td><td align="center">jong</td><td align="center">tschía</td><td align="center">bápa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">my father</td><td align="center">jong-tióo</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">mother</td><td align="center">kamioján</td><td align="center">tschía-angána</td><td align="center">ma, mák</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">old man</td><td align="center">jong-niá</td><td align="center">angónje</td><td align="center">chaudáu</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">old woman, feeble woman</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">koomhóois</td><td align="center">chaudán-poorampooan</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">son</td><td align="center">kóoan</td><td align="center">góan or ilúh</td><td align="center">ana-chaudán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">daughter</td><td align="center">kóoan</td><td align="center">kanióom-angana</td><td align="center">ana-pooram-pooan<!--474.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">brother</td><td align="center">kanána</td><td align="center">tscháo-angana</td><td align="center">kaka</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">head</td><td align="center">kóoi</td><td align="center">góeh</td><td align="center">kapalá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hair</td><td align="center">kooiá</td><td align="center">jogh</td><td align="center">ramut</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">face</td><td align="center">gúa</td><td align="center">matscháka</td><td align="center">mooká</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">forehead</td><td align="center">mal</td><td align="center">lal</td><td align="center">dái</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ear</td><td align="center">nang</td><td align="center">neng</td><td align="center">talénga</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">earrings worn by natives</td><td align="center">nang</td><td align="center">itiéi</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">eye</td><td align="center">mat</td><td align="center">oal-mát</td><td align="center">mattá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">eyebrows</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">ok-mát</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">nose</td><td align="center">elmé</td><td align="center">moáh</td><td align="center">idóng</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">nostrils</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">ol-moáh</td><td align="center">lo-bang-idong</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">chin</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">enkóin</td><td align="center">dagóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cheek</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tapóah</td><td align="center">pípi</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">breast</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">alendája</td><td align="center">dáda</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">throat, larynx</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">ungnóka</td><td align="center">kronkóugan</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">calf of the leg</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">kanmoána</td><td align="center">jantong-bóotis</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">mouth</td><td align="center">minú</td><td align="center">manóing</td><td align="center">mulót</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tongue</td><td align="center">litág</td><td align="center">kaletág</td><td align="center">lidá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tooth</td><td align="center">kanáp</td><td align="center">kanáp</td><td align="center">jijée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">beard</td><td align="center">máin-kóoa</td><td align="center">inhóing</td><td align="center">boolo-báo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">neck</td><td align="center">likún</td><td align="center">unlóngha</td><td align="center">tinkó</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">arm</td><td align="center">kel</td><td align="center">koál</td><td align="center">langán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hand</td><td align="center">koontée</td><td align="center">oktái</td><td align="center">tangán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">palm of the hand</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">oal-tái</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">finger</td><td align="center">heng</td><td align="center">kani-tái</td><td align="center">charée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">nail</td><td align="center">kiusó</td><td align="center">kaischúa</td><td align="center">kookóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">body or trunk</td><td align="center">aláha</td><td align="center">okáha</td><td align="center">badán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">belly</td><td align="center">áik</td><td align="center">wuiáng</td><td align="center">baróot</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">navel</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">fon</td><td align="center">boosát</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thigh</td><td align="center">kaldrán</td><td align="center">booló</td><td align="center">pahá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">foot</td><td align="center">eldrán</td><td align="center">lah</td><td align="center">tapa-kakí<!--475.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">toes</td><td align="center">kundrán</td><td align="center">kanéch-lah <i>or</i> ok lah</td><td align="center">daloognoo-kakí</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bone</td><td align="center">tangáe</td><td align="center">ung-éjing</td><td align="center">tooláng</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">skin</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">ihé</td><td align="center">kooléet</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">knee</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">kohanoáng</td><td align="center">lutót</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">heart</td><td align="center">faniéoola</td><td align="center">kióyen</td><td align="center">hangát</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">blood</td><td align="center">mahám</td><td align="center">wooáh</td><td align="center">dará</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">village</td><td align="center">panám</td><td align="center">mattái</td><td align="center">kampong</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">chief</td><td align="center">máh</td><td align="center">oomiáh-mattái</td><td align="center">capitan, capitan-kampong</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">warrior</td><td align="center">hol</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">toomóh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">friend</td><td align="center">moowée</td><td align="center">jól</td><td align="center">bái, bánia-bái</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">friendship</td><td align="center">hóldra</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">house, hut</td><td align="center">patée</td><td align="center">njee</td><td align="center">roomá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">kettle</td><td align="center">tzitóom</td><td align="center">poonhágua</td><td align="center">balanga, panél</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">arrow</td><td align="center">alindreng</td><td align="center">bel</td><td align="center">ana-paná</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bow</td><td align="center">lindreng</td><td align="center">donna</td><td align="center">paná</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">axe, hatchet</td><td align="center">hanyeng</td><td align="center">enlóin</td><td align="center">kapá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">flint</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hindél</td><td align="center">sanapáng</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cannon</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hin-wáu</td><td align="center">mariám</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"> shot</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hadéel</td><td align="center">pasang-bóodeel</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">knife</td><td align="center">sooréeta</td><td align="center">kahánáp</td><td align="center">pisóh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">canoe, or boat</td><td align="center">ap</td><td align="center">dëuá</td><td align="center">sampán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">rudder</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">duende-dol-deüá</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">shoe</td><td align="center">kundróka</td><td align="center">zapatos (corruption of Portuguese)</td><td align="center">kasút, supátu</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bread</td><td align="center">pekó</td><td align="center">puáng (Portuguese, pan)</td><td align="center">roti</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">pipe, whistle</td><td align="center">rípa</td><td align="center">tanóp</td><td align="center">hundchúe</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to smoke</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">top-oomhói</td><td align="center">asap</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tobacco</td><td align="center">tobacco</td><td align="center">oomhói</td><td align="center">tumbáko<!--476.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bamboo tobacco-box</td><td align="center">ooráng</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">heaven</td><td align="center">halyáng</td><td align="center">oal, galahája</td><td align="center">langéet</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sun</td><td align="center">tawúo</td><td align="center">heng</td><td align="center">mataharée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">moon</td><td align="center">chingát</td><td align="center">kahaé</td><td align="center">boolán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">full-moon</td><td align="center">sohó</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">star</td><td align="center">tanoosamát</td><td align="center">shokmaléicha</td><td align="center">bintang</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">day</td><td align="center">tahei</td><td align="center">heng</td><td align="center">tsará</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">night</td><td align="center">átam</td><td align="center">hatám</td><td align="center">malám</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">darkness</td><td align="center">sangóola</td><td align="center">doochóol</td><td align="center">bania-galáp</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">morning</td><td align="center">haaréi</td><td align="center">hagée</td><td align="center">pagée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">day after to-morrow</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">chayesláng</td><td align="center">hiso-pagée-pagée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">evening</td><td align="center">haráp</td><td align="center">ladiáyá</td><td align="center">patang</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">summer (i. e. the dry or fine season)</td><td align="center">talák</td><td align="center">koi-kapa (N.E. monsoon)</td><td align="center">poolan-nám</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">winter (i. e. the rainy season)</td><td align="center">koomra</td><td align="center">sohóng (S.W. monsoon)</td><td align="center">barát</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">wind</td><td align="center">koofótt</td><td align="center">hash</td><td align="center">angéen</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">lightning</td><td align="center">nieïnáka</td><td align="center">máit</td><td align="center">kilát</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thunder</td><td align="center">koonróka</td><td align="center">komtoogna</td><td align="center">gooróh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">rain</td><td align="center">koomra</td><td align="center">amà</td><td align="center">oosán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">clouds</td><td align="center">talóol</td><td align="center">galaháya</td><td align="center">awán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">east</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hash-fooly</td><td align="center">téemor</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">west</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hash-soháng</td><td align="center">barát</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">south</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hash-láhhna</td><td align="center">slatán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">north</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hash-kapá</td><td align="center">ootára</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fire</td><td align="center">tamóia</td><td align="center">hióye</td><td align="center">ápee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to kindle a fire with bamboo</td><td align="center">kiséit</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;<!--477.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">water</td><td align="center">neak</td><td align="center">dák</td><td align="center">ajaír</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">salt-water</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">kamaléh</td><td align="center">aja-masséen</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sand</td><td align="center">toomlát</td><td align="center">péeèt</td><td align="center">pasói</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">earth, land</td><td align="center">panámm</td><td align="center">oal-mattái</td><td align="center">kampong</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sea</td><td align="center">máee</td><td align="center">oal-kamaléh</td><td align="center">aja-masséen</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">flood-tide</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hayjáoo</td><td align="center">ajáir-báh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ebb</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tchóh</td><td align="center">sooróot</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">river</td><td align="center">tit-mak</td><td align="center">hiajarák</td><td align="center">soongwáy</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">valley</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">alhodá</td><td align="center">lémba</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hill</td><td align="center">yógle</td><td align="center">kohinjúan</td><td align="center">boojétt (boo-kéett)</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">mountain, forest</td><td align="center">koochiónn</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">boojétt-bassa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">island</td><td align="center">panám, poolgna</td><td align="center">poolgna, mattái</td><td align="center">póolo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">stone, rock</td><td align="center">chóng</td><td align="center">mangáh</td><td align="center">batóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">brass</td><td align="center">mas</td><td align="center">kalaháee</td><td align="center">tamagá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">iron</td><td align="center">wert</td><td align="center">kadáo</td><td align="center">bacee, (bucee)</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tree</td><td align="center">kaha-chiónn</td><td align="center">koy-unjéeha</td><td align="center">atas-kayóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">wood</td><td align="center">chiónn</td><td align="center">oomnóeet</td><td align="center">kayóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">leaf</td><td align="center">droée-chiónn</td><td align="center">da-unjéeha</td><td align="center">daáeen-kayóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bark</td><td align="center">ook-chiónn</td><td align="center">ok-unjéeha</td><td align="center">coolie-kayór</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">grass</td><td align="center">káee-op</td><td align="center">oobjóoab</td><td align="center">roombót</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">human flesh</td><td align="center">aláha</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">flesh</td><td align="center">kirinée</td><td align="center">okaóoha</td><td align="center">koolétt</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">pork</td><td align="center">naoon</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">parrot</td><td align="center">sakáha</td><td align="center">katók</td><td align="center">buron-baján nóri, kastóoree</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">maina (bird known as <i>Graculus Indicus</i>)</td><td align="center">kachaláo</td><td align="center">sichóoa</td><td align="center">buron-tiónn</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cocoa-palm</td><td align="center">kahataóoka</td><td align="center">oocejáoo</td><td align="center">niónn</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">green cocoa-nut</td><td align="center">taóoka</td><td align="center">njáoo</td><td align="center">nionn-mooda</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ripe cocoa-nut</td><td align="center">toowooáyka</td><td align="center">gnoátt</td><td align="center">massá<!--478.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">banana</td><td align="center">tanióonga</td><td align="center">hibóo</td><td align="center">pisang</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sugar-cane</td><td align="center">lamóoa</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tóoboo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">yam</td><td align="center">toltatchióng</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">koontang oobee-bóonggala</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">anana</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">choodóo</td><td align="center">avanas</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><i>Carica-papaya</i></td><td align="center">popáy</td><td align="center">popáy</td><td align="center">papáya</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">pandanus</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">laróhm</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">palm-wine (toddy)</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">doágh</td><td align="center">tóoak</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">pig</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">not</td><td align="center">babi</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ape</td><td align="center">ointchí</td><td align="center">dooáeen-káeen</td><td align="center">grah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">dog</td><td align="center">ahm</td><td align="center">ahm</td><td align="center">autchíng</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cock</td><td align="center">hayám</td><td align="center">kamóoe-koep</td><td align="center">ajam-tchantán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hen</td><td align="center">kooan-hayám</td><td align="center">kon-kamóoe, tschi-kamóoe</td><td align="center">ajam-bootéena</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">rat</td><td align="center">komét</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tíkus</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cat</td><td align="center">koomeáo</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">kootchíng</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">serpent, snake</td><td align="center">petsch</td><td align="center">paéetya, toolán</td><td align="center">ooláh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bird</td><td align="center">tschi-aítchou</td><td align="center">sitchúa</td><td align="center">boorón</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">egg (generally)</td><td align="center">óoha</td><td align="center">hóoeeja</td><td align="center">toolo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hen's egg</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hóoeeja-kamóoe</td><td align="center">tulo-ajám</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">dove</td><td align="center">makóoka</td><td align="center">moomóoh</td><td align="center">pregám-moorpáti</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fish</td><td align="center">kah</td><td align="center">gah</td><td align="center">ikán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">paper</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">láeeberi</td><td align="center">kóortas</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">lead-pencil</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">anet-láeeberi</td><td align="center">halam-téemah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">key</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tenooán</td><td align="center">anak-kúntchi</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">chain</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">maláo</td><td align="center">rantik</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">white</td><td align="center">tesó</td><td align="center">tenjéea</td><td align="center">pootáy</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">black</td><td align="center">turíng</td><td align="center">óeel</td><td align="center">itám</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">black coat</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">loaim-óeel</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">red</td><td align="center">sakalátt</td><td align="center">ak</td><td align="center">máyra<!--479.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">blue</td><td align="center">turing</td><td align="center">tchoongóa</td><td align="center">kalabóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">dark-blue</td><td align="center">turing</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">light-blue</td><td align="center">tatóoka</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">yellow</td><td align="center">tangáo</td><td align="center">láaom</td><td align="center">kooncéng</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">green</td><td align="center">faiáll</td><td align="center">tchoongóa</td><td align="center">itchó</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">large</td><td align="center">maróla</td><td align="center">kadóo</td><td align="center">loás</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">small</td><td align="center">keejilóng</td><td align="center">oompáeetche</td><td align="center">kitchée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">strong</td><td align="center">takale-aláh</td><td align="center">koáng</td><td align="center">prat</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">old</td><td align="center">mah</td><td align="center">boomóoashe oomiáha</td><td align="center">tóoa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">young</td><td align="center">neeáy</td><td align="center">eelóoh</td><td align="center">moodá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">good</td><td align="center">taláck</td><td align="center">lapów</td><td align="center">bagóoce</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bad</td><td align="center">atláck</td><td align="center">hadlapa</td><td align="center">tabáee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">pretty</td><td align="center">talácka-kóoa</td><td align="center">lapóa</td><td align="center">báee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">very beautiful</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">ilote-lapóa</td><td align="center">bánia-báee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ugly</td><td align="center">atlácka-koóa</td><td align="center">jóoh</td><td align="center">hang</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">living</td><td align="center">atkáppa</td><td align="center">ahn</td><td align="center">deeáa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">dead</td><td align="center">kóopa</td><td align="center">kapá</td><td align="center">matti</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cold</td><td align="center">leejéet</td><td align="center">kaáy</td><td align="center">sitchóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">warm</td><td align="center">wooang, or wáyee-low</td><td align="center">keeojan</td><td align="center">hang-át</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">I</td><td align="center">teeóoa</td><td align="center">teeóoa</td><td align="center">sajá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thou</td><td align="center">mough</td><td align="center">mooáyh</td><td align="center">aug</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">he</td><td align="center">kna</td><td align="center">ahn</td><td align="center">deeá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">we</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">teeóe</td><td align="center">kéeta, kámi</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ye or you</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">eefóe</td><td align="center">augkáoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">they</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">efoe-bajóo-oomtohm</td><td align="center">dia-orang, or marikaéetoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">this</td><td align="center">eenáy</td><td align="center">neeáe or néena</td><td align="center">seenee, eenee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">that</td><td align="center">oomóo</td><td align="center">anáay</td><td align="center">seetóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">all</td><td align="center">rókayra</td><td align="center">oomtóhm</td><td align="center">samooáa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">much</td><td align="center">marónga</td><td align="center">ootóhatche</td><td align="center">baniá, baniák<!--480.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">who?</td><td align="center">akéea?</td><td align="center">tchée?</td><td align="center">sapaée? (seeáppa)</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">who is he?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tchick-ahn?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">near</td><td align="center">raáyta</td><td align="center">meáyhoa</td><td align="center">dakátt</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">distant</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hóee</td><td align="center">tchaó</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">very far</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hóee-kah</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to-day</td><td align="center">taháee</td><td align="center">lenheng</td><td align="center">arynée, harée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">yesterday</td><td align="center">waháy</td><td align="center">mandiój</td><td align="center">koomaréen, klamaréen</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to-morrow</td><td align="center">hooráyeek</td><td align="center">hakáyee</td><td align="center">heéso (bisok)</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">yes</td><td align="center">hoán</td><td align="center">aón</td><td align="center">ijá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">no</td><td align="center">draháwa</td><td align="center">ooát</td><td align="center">tidá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">one</td><td align="center">hang</td><td align="center">hayáng</td><td align="center">satóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">two</td><td align="center">anátt</td><td align="center">ah</td><td align="center">dooá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">three</td><td align="center">lóoay</td><td align="center">lóeh</td><td align="center">téega</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">four</td><td align="center">fön</td><td align="center">fooán</td><td align="center">oompátt</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">five</td><td align="center">tanáyee</td><td align="center">tanáyee</td><td align="center">léema</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">six</td><td align="center">tafóol</td><td align="center">tafoóel</td><td align="center">njam</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">seven</td><td align="center">sat</td><td align="center">ishiátt</td><td align="center">tootchó</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">eight</td><td align="center">háware</td><td align="center">oenfoán</td><td align="center">lapánn</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">nine</td><td align="center">matióotare</td><td align="center">hayáng-hata</td><td align="center">sambilán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ten</td><td align="center">som</td><td align="center">som</td><td align="center">sibooló</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">eleven</td><td align="center">kaook-séeen</td><td align="center">som-háyang</td><td align="center">sebeláss</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">twelve</td><td align="center">áh-sien</td><td align="center">som-áh</td><td align="center">dooabeláss</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thirteen</td><td align="center">looay-sien</td><td align="center">som-loáy</td><td align="center">teejabeláss</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">twenty</td><td align="center">kaóok-matiáma</td><td align="center">heng-oomtchóma</td><td align="center">dua-poolów</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">twenty-one</td><td align="center">kaóok-matiáma-heng</td><td align="center">heng-oomtchóma-heang</td><td align="center">dua-poolów-satóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">twenty-two</td><td align="center">kaook-matiama-anátt</td><td align="center">heng-oomtchóma-ah</td><td align="center">dua-poolów-duá</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thirty</td><td align="center">looay-kanyoo</td><td align="center">heng-oomtchóma-toktay</td><td align="center">tiga-poolów</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">forty</td><td align="center">fön-kanyóo</td><td align="center">ahm-oomtchóma</td><td align="center">ampátt-poolów<!--481.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fifty</td><td align="center">tanáyee-kanyóo</td><td align="center">ahm-oomtchóma-toktay</td><td align="center">léema-poolów</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sixty</td><td align="center">tafoól-kanyoo</td><td align="center">looáy-oomtchóma</td><td align="center">njam-poolów</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hundred</td><td align="center">heng-ohn</td><td align="center">som-oomtchóma</td><td align="center">saratooce</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thousand</td><td align="center">som-ohn</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">sirrybóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to eat</td><td align="center">niá</td><td align="center">náok</td><td align="center">makán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">one who eats</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">oog-naók</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to drink</td><td align="center">kön</td><td align="center">táoop</td><td align="center">minoong</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">one who drinks</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">oog-taoop</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to run</td><td align="center">kayánn</td><td align="center">deeánn</td><td align="center">larée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to dance</td><td align="center">küliám</td><td align="center">katáoga</td><td align="center">máaen, murari</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to go</td><td align="center">keerángary</td><td align="center">tchoo</td><td align="center">bigée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to grow slowly</td><td align="center">att-kayán</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to sing</td><td align="center">tingócka</td><td align="center">aekásha</td><td align="center">magnánee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to sleep</td><td align="center">loom</td><td align="center">eetáyak</td><td align="center">teedów</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to speak</td><td align="center">róa</td><td align="center">olliówla</td><td align="center">sakápp</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to see</td><td align="center">mooak</td><td align="center">hadáh, oog-hadáh</td><td align="center">tengo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to love</td><td align="center">hanganlón</td><td align="center">soojónghién</td><td align="center">bánia-kesseéen</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to kill</td><td align="center">sap</td><td align="center">oorrée</td><td align="center">bóton, boonóh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to cut one's self</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">ottáh</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to sit</td><td align="center">ratt</td><td align="center">katö</td><td align="center">doodó</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to sit down</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">bóoja</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to stand</td><td align="center">talánn</td><td align="center">ockshéeaga</td><td align="center">badyrée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to come</td><td align="center">jéehee</td><td align="center">kaáytery</td><td align="center">marée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to yawn</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hengáp</td><td align="center">móongwap</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to laugh</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">itée</td><td align="center">toortáwa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to weep</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">teeóom</td><td align="center">moonángis</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">native stringed instrument (<i>see</i> p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>)</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">dennang</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><i>areca</i>-nut</td><td align="center">tissáh</td><td align="center">heejáh</td><td align="center">pinang<!--482.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">coral chalk</td><td align="center">soonám</td><td align="center">shónn</td><td align="center">kapoor</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">betel-leaf</td><td align="center">kooránia</td><td align="center">hakáyee, aráy</td><td align="center">sirée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tortoise-shell</td><td align="center">kap</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">koolet-kará</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fly</td><td align="center">inlooáyee</td><td align="center">jóoay</td><td align="center">lapátt</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">mosquito</td><td align="center">moosóka</td><td align="center">mihója</td><td align="center">njamó</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">feather or pencil</td><td align="center">kanuítch</td><td align="center">anet-láyeebery</td><td align="center">kalám</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">wing</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">danówen</td><td align="center">sajáp</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">name</td><td align="center">minánee</td><td align="center">lérmay</td><td align="center">namáa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">what is your name?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">kin-lérmay</td><td align="center">apa-namáa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">weapon</td><td align="center">hinwótt</td><td align="center">hindéll</td><td align="center">boodéel</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cow-pox</td><td align="center">mallóck</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tcha-tchár</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">white man</td><td align="center">isohokooa</td><td align="center">bájoo-tatenn-hamátt</td><td align="center">orang-bootáy</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">a Malay or yellow man</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">kolog-hamátt</td><td align="center">orang-máyra</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">black man</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">taóln-hamátt</td><td align="center">orang-itám</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">voyage or journey</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">johatáyha</td><td align="center">blajárr</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">doctor</td><td align="center">manlóoena</td><td align="center">manlóoena</td><td align="center">bornów</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">honey</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">lapáa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">flute (<i>see</i> p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>)</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">hinhell</td><td align="center">bangsée</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<!--483.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_471" id="Page_471">471</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="APPENDIX_B" id="APPENDIX_B"></a>APPENDIX B.</h3>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding: 1em 0 1em 0;">VOCABULARY<br />
+
+(UPON GALATIN'S SYSTEM)<br />
+
+OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NATIVES OF PUYNIPET ISLAND<br />(CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO)
+AND SIKAYANA, OR STEWART'S ISLAND.</div>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left">Object.</td><td align="center">Puynipet, 6° 48&#8242; N., 158° 14&#8242; E.</td><td align="center">Sikayana, 8° 24&#8242; 24&#8243; N., 163° E.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">man</td><td align="center">ooléen</td><td align="center">tanáta</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">apparel (men's)</td><td align="center">koáll</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">men, people</td><td align="center">aramáss</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">woman</td><td align="center">lée</td><td align="center">faféeny</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">apparel (women's)</td><td align="center">lee-koóty</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">boy</td><td align="center">tchirri-máoon</td><td align="center">tamali-kirriky</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">girl</td><td align="center">tchirri-páyni</td><td align="center">tama-feény</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">father</td><td align="center">paba</td><td align="center">tamána</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">mother</td><td align="center">nono</td><td align="center">tinána</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">old man</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tilui-tanáta</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">old woman</td><td align="center">boóot</td><td align="center">tama</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">son</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">aréeky</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">brother</td><td align="center">reeágey</td><td align="center">táeena</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sister</td><td align="center">reeágey-lee</td><td align="center">káwe</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">workman or slave</td><td align="center">aramáss-a-mal</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">head</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">debosoúlu</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hair</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">ládóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">face</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">lofeé-máta</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">brow</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">móa-lái</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ear</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">káootalina</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">eye</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">karimata</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">nose</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">kai-joosoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">mouth</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">móa-jóosoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tongue</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">aláydo<!--484.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tooth</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">nítcho</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">beard</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">bábaée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">neck</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">teoówa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">arm</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">léema</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hand or finger</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">motikáo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">nail</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">padde</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">body</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">fuáitino</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">belly</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">manáwa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thigh or leg</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">koonawáee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">foot</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">sapoowáee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">toes</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">motikáo-wáee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bone</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">táyeewee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">heart</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">wagga-wagga</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">blood</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tóto</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">village</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">takaeena</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">chief</td><td align="center">tchobity</td><td align="center">alikée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">high-chief</td><td align="center">tchobity-lappilap</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">a king</td><td align="center">nanamaréeky</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">minister</td><td align="center">nannekin</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">warrior</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">patooa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">friend</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tosóah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">house, hut</td><td align="center">nanoom</td><td align="center">tamafálee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bow and arrow</td><td align="center">katchin-kotáyoo</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">musket</td><td align="center">kotcháck</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cannon</td><td align="center">kotchák-lappilap</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">spear</td><td align="center">kotáyoo</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">saw</td><td align="center">ratch-a-ratch</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">knife</td><td align="center">kapoot</td><td align="center">nife (Anglicé knife)</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">young bamboo</td><td align="center">aleck</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cocoa-palm</td><td align="center">erring</td><td align="center">nyóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">old cocoa-nut</td><td align="center">erríng</td><td align="center">mata-séelee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">young cocoa-nut</td><td align="center">páyeen</td><td align="center">kamátoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">yam</td><td align="center">kaáp</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sugar-cane</td><td align="center">katchin-tchóo</td><td align="center">&mdash;<!--485.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bread-fruit</td><td align="center">mahee</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">banana</td><td align="center">oot</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ginger</td><td align="center">goonapella</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">food</td><td align="center">moonga</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">rope</td><td align="center">sháal</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">coral</td><td align="center">paeena</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">reef</td><td align="center">mát</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ship's mast</td><td align="center">kow</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ship</td><td align="center">tchob</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">mainsail</td><td align="center">tcherrick</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">launch</td><td align="center">wooárr</td><td align="center">wakka</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">large ship, man-of-war</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">wakka-wakka</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">go, fetch me a canoe</td><td align="center">kowa-golawata-ny-wooárr</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">small canoe</td><td align="center">wooárr-madigadig</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">war-canoe</td><td align="center">wooárr-ma-loot</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">shoe</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">takka</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bread</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">papay (from papaya)</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">pipe</td><td align="center">péepo</td><td align="center">méety-méety</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tobacco</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tobacco</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">smoke</td><td align="center">atee-niágey<br />(? act of sternutation is<br /> intended to be expressed)</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">heaven</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">teláoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sun</td><td align="center">katerpin</td><td align="center">teláh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">the sun scorches<br />(<i>sc.</i> the sun is evil)</td><td align="center">katerpinban-kara-kara</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">moon</td><td align="center">tschoonaboong</td><td align="center">maláma</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">star</td><td align="center">ootchoo</td><td align="center">fatoó</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">day</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">trasonáyee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">light</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">taeejáo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">night</td><td align="center">bong</td><td align="center">tepóh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">darkness</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">poóori-táoo<!--486.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">morning</td><td align="center">raán</td><td align="center">tapa-taeejáo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">evening (little night)</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">afee-afee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">wind</td><td align="center">katchi-niang</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">lightning</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">wooéela</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thunder</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">mána</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">rain</td><td align="center">katow</td><td align="center">tamakee-tayóowa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">the rain approaches</td><td align="center">katow-bankoto</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">basket</td><td align="center">kíam</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">distilled spirit</td><td align="center">jakó-ni-wáee</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fire</td><td align="center">katchiniagey</td><td align="center">áfee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">water</td><td align="center">peéel</td><td align="center">wooáee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hot water (also tea)</td><td align="center">peéel-karakara</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">earth, land</td><td align="center">tcháap</td><td align="center">fanóoa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sea</td><td align="center">nantchéet</td><td align="center">wooáee-táee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hill</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">faka-maoona</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">island</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tama-fanóva</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">stone, rock</td><td align="center">tákee</td><td align="center">fátoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sand</td><td align="center">pig</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">iron</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">keela</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tree, wood</td><td align="center">toóee <i>or</i> tóoka</td><td align="center">lagáoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sandal-wood</td><td align="center">tooka-pomow</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">trepang</td><td align="center">meneeka</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">red-trepang</td><td align="center">lekapasina-menelka-witata</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">inferior sort</td><td align="center">lognan</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">best sort</td><td align="center">mayéen</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">black sort</td><td align="center">matup</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">trepang split open</td><td align="center">penapen</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">pearl-oyster</td><td align="center">páee</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">flesh</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tayéeho</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">human flesh</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">takéery</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">pig</td><td align="center">piig (corrupted from the English)</td><td align="center">&mdash;<!--487.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">dog</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">koorée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bird</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">looppi</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">egg</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tafóoa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">dove</td><td align="center">móorie</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">domestic fowl</td><td align="center">maleek</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fish</td><td align="center">maáam</td><td align="center">éeka</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fool</td><td align="center">booy-booée</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hat</td><td align="center">tchoroóp</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">chisel</td><td align="center">tcheela</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">flask</td><td align="center">jug (English)</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">calabash</td><td align="center">ay-júg</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">book</td><td align="center">ay-tíng</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">box</td><td align="center">koba</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">native cucumber</td><td align="center">toor</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">apron</td><td align="center">goál</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fish-hook</td><td align="center">katcheen-mata</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">musical instrument</td><td align="center">katcháng</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">a liar</td><td align="center">lakoompót</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">tortoise-shell</td><td align="center">katchinipoot</td><td align="center">masána</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">mosquito</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">namoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">name</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">koái-to-máre</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">what is your name?</td><td align="center">idiatoom?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">who are you?</td><td align="center">itch-kowa?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">voyage, journey</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">mamao</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">white</td><td align="center">boot-a-boot</td><td align="center">mah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">white-man</td><td align="center">oolyn-way</td><td align="center">tamamáh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">black</td><td align="center">tintol</td><td align="center">óoree</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">black-man</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">lama-ooree</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">red</td><td align="center">witáta</td><td align="center">ayóola</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">blue, green</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">ayóoee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">yellow</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">kikana</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">great</td><td align="center">lappiláp</td><td align="center">naneéoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">small</td><td align="center">madigidig</td><td align="center">likée-likée</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">strong</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">faee-mafée<!--488.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">young</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">táaney</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">young man</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">tama-táaney</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">good</td><td align="center">mamó</td><td align="center">ayláooe</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">long</td><td align="center">maréerie</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">short</td><td align="center">mootamóot</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">old</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">matooa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">far</td><td align="center">maloóot</td><td align="center">ma-máo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">painfully alarmed</td><td align="center">matchek</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bad</td><td align="center">metchiwate</td><td align="center">fa-keeno-keeno</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">beautiful</td><td align="center">katchilell</td><td align="center">ayláosee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">dead</td><td align="center">metchilárr</td><td align="center">koomátie</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">a dead man</td><td align="center">hóni</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">bad odours</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">puraóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ugly (bad)</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">fa-keeno-keeno</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ill</td><td align="center">tchoo-mo</td><td align="center">áyeesoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">living</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">ayláooee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">cold</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">makalili</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">warm</td><td align="center">kara</td><td align="center">mafána</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hot</td><td align="center">kara-kara</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">I, me</td><td align="center">nej</td><td align="center">enáoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">we</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">kohootóha</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thou</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">akóee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">he</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">támala</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ye or you</td><td align="center">noom</td><td align="center">akoee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">they</td><td align="center">kowa</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">all</td><td align="center">karootcheea</td><td align="center">kohoo-tóhoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">much, many</td><td align="center">matóto</td><td align="center">tama-kee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">seldom</td><td align="center">malólo</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">where?</td><td align="center">áya?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">who?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">sáya?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">who's there?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">sáya-táy?</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">which</td><td align="center">itch</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">what?</td><td align="center">ta?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">what does that cost?</td><td align="center">táa-ban-pyn?</td><td align="center">&mdash;<!--489.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to-day</td><td align="center">raánauit</td><td align="center">tai-jáoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">this night</td><td align="center">neeboong</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">near</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">taoo-preemáee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">yesterday</td><td align="center">eejáyo</td><td align="center">na-náfee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">long since</td><td align="center">kelanáydgo</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to-morrow</td><td align="center">lo-koop</td><td align="center">taya-sóakee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">yes</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">oh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">I know</td><td align="center">nejereera-neekee</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">no</td><td align="center">tchó</td><td align="center">sáyaee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">I don't know</td><td align="center">nej-tyraneekee</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">how do you call this?</td><td align="center">togata mett?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">enough, that's enough</td><td align="center">áare</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">there is no more</td><td align="center">allatcher</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fast</td><td align="center">bit-a-bit</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">one</td><td align="center">aáat</td><td align="center">táahee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">two</td><td align="center">aáree</td><td align="center">róoah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">three</td><td align="center">tchil</td><td align="center">torah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">four</td><td align="center">abáng</td><td align="center">fah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">five</td><td align="center">ayliéem</td><td align="center">leemah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">six</td><td align="center">oán</td><td align="center">ono</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">seven</td><td align="center">etch</td><td align="center">féetoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">eight</td><td align="center">ewal</td><td align="center">wároo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">nine</td><td align="center">atóooo</td><td align="center">séewo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">ten</td><td align="center">katingóol etchak</td><td align="center">katáwa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">eleven</td><td align="center">katingóol-aát</td><td align="center">katáwa-táhee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">twelve</td><td align="center">katingóol-árée</td><td align="center">katáwa-róoah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thirteen</td><td align="center">katingóol-etchil</td><td align="center">katáwa-tóra</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">twenty</td><td align="center">ree-etchak</td><td align="center">mata-róoah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">thirty</td><td align="center">tchil-etchak</td><td align="center">mata-tórah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">forty</td><td align="center">pa-etchak</td><td align="center">mata-fáh</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">fifty</td><td align="center">lyeem-etchak</td><td align="center">mata-léema</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sixty</td><td align="center">oán-etchak</td><td align="center">mata-on</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hundred</td><td align="center">a-bóokie</td><td align="center">lou</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">200</td><td align="center">ree-a-bookie</td><td align="center">róoah-lou<!--490.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">300</td><td align="center">tchil-abookie</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">1000</td><td align="center">ket</td><td align="center">kutaíoa-lou</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">5000</td><td align="center">lyeem-a-ket</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">2,505</td><td align="center">ree-a-ket-lyeem-a-bookie-elyéem</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">5,090</td><td align="center">lyéem-a-ket-átoooo-etchak</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">4,440</td><td align="center">pa-a-ket-pa-a-bóokie-pa-etchak</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">3,030</td><td align="center">tchil-a-ket-tchil-etchak</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">9,740</td><td align="center">atóooo-a-ket-etch-a-bóokie-pa-etchak</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">10,990</td><td align="center">nóooo-atóooo-a-bookie-atóooo-etchak</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to eat</td><td align="center">namenám</td><td align="center">káee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to drink</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">óonoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to run</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">saéeray</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to dance</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">anóo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to go</td><td align="center">gota</td><td align="center">anáaoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to go ashore</td><td align="center">gota-nancháp</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to go up</td><td align="center">gota-wáai</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to descend</td><td align="center">goti-wáai</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">I am going on board</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">anáoo-gafáno</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">I am going forward</td><td align="center">ny-ban-tchoomeláa</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">whither go you?</td><td align="center">go-leejáa?</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">go on!</td><td align="center">hugo-wáai!</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">stand up!</td><td align="center">hóota!</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">wait!</td><td align="center">hooti-mas</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sit down</td><td align="center">mónti</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">lie down</td><td align="center">wenti</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to write or tattoo</td><td align="center">ting</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to sing</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">bésse</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to sleep</td><td align="center">meriláh</td><td align="center">mói</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to speak</td><td align="center">kalang</td><td align="center">tóka<!--491.png--></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to love</td><td align="center">bukka-bukka</td><td align="center">anáoo-fifái-kikaói</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">I do not love him</td><td align="center">éekah</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">the dead</td><td align="center">kumméla</td><td align="center">leékie-teéa</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">It smells unpleasantly</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">poor-áoo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to steal</td><td align="center">lyppiráp</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to sit</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">nófo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to stand</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td><td align="center">anasáni</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to come</td><td align="center">tongata</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">come back!</td><td align="center">broto</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">come here!</td><td align="center">ky-to</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to bathe</td><td align="center">tóo-tu</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to bring</td><td align="center">wáta</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to take</td><td align="center">wá-waée</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">night-mare</td><td align="center">loátch</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">to give</td><td align="center">kiáng</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">give me</td><td align="center">kitá</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">you are giving</td><td align="center">kowa-kiáng</td><td align="center">&mdash;</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<!--492.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_480" id="Page_480">480</a></span>
+
+<h3><a name="APPENDIX_C_p_399" id="APPENDIX_C_p_399"></a>APPENDIX C. (p. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_399">399</a>.)</h3>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding: 1em 0 1em 0;">
+FORM IN SPANISH OF THE AGREEMENT ENTERED INTO IN DUPLICATE,
+CHINESE AND SPANISH, AND SIGNED BY EACH CHINESE EMIGRANT BEFORE
+LEAVING MACAO.
+</div>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">Nombre____________________</td><td align="left">Provincia____________________</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">Edad______________________</td><td align="left">Profesion____________________</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<div><span class="smcap">Digo Yo</span>_________________________________________
+natural____________________
+en China, de edad de _____ años, que he convenido con Dn. <span class="smcap">F. Velez</span> lo que
+se espresa en las clausulas siguientes:</div>
+
+<p>1<sup>a</sup>. Quedo comprometido desde ahora á embarcarme para la <span class="smcap">Habana</span> en la Isla
+de Cuba en el buque que me señale dicho Señor.</p>
+
+<p>2<sup>a</sup>. Quedo igualmente comprometido y sugeto por el termino de ocho años á
+trabajar en dicho pais de la Isla de Cuba á las ordenes de la <span class="smcap">Sociedad la
+Colonizadora</span> ó á las de la persona á quien traspasare este Contrato para
+lo cual la faculto, en todas las tareas alli acostumbradas, en el campo,
+en las poblaciones, ó en donde quiera que me destinen, sea en casas
+particulares, establecimientos de cualquiera clase de industria y artes, ó
+bien en ingenios, vegas, cafetales, sitios, potreros, estancias y cuanto
+concierne á las labores urbanas y rurales sea de la especie que fueren.</p>
+
+<p>3<sup>a</sup>. Los ocho años de compromiso que dejo contraidos en los terminos
+espresados en la clausula anterior, principiarán á contarse desde el
+octavo dia siguiente al de mi llegada al puerto citado de la <span class="smcap">Habana</span>,
+siempre que yo llegare en buena salud, y desde el octavo dia siguiente al
+de mi salida del hospital ó enfermeria, caso de llegar enfermo ó incapaz
+de trabajar al tiempo de mi desembarco.</p>
+
+<p>4<sup>a</sup>. Las horas en que he de trabajar dependerán de la clase de trabajo que
+se me dé, y segun las atencinoes que dicho trabajo requiera, lo cual queda
+al arbitrio del patrono á cuyas ordenes se me ponga, siempre que se me dén
+mis horas seguidas de descanso cada 24 horas, y el tiempo preciso a demas
+para la comida y almuerzo, con arreglo á lo que en estas necesidades
+inviertan los de mas trabajadores asalariados en aquel
+pais.<!--493.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_481" id="Page_481">481</a></span></p>
+
+<p>5<sup>a</sup>. Ademas de las horas de descanso, en los dias de trabajo, no podrá
+hacerseme desempeñar en los Domingos mas lavores que las denecesidad
+practicadas en tales dias segun la indole de los que haceres en que me
+ocupen.</p>
+
+<p>6<sup>a</sup>. Me sugeto igualmente al orden y disciplina que se observe en el
+establecimiento, taller, finca ó casa particular adonde se me destine, y
+me someto al sistema de coreccion que en los mismos se impone por faltas
+de aplicacion y constancia en el trabajo, de obediencia á las ordenes de
+los patronos ó de sus representantes, y por todas aquellas, cuja gravedad
+no haga precisa la intervencion de las leyes.</p>
+
+<p>7<sup>a</sup>. Por ninguna razon ó por ningun pretesto podré, durante los ocho años
+por los cuales quedo comprometido en este Contrato, negar mis servicios al
+patron que me tome, ni á evadirme de su poder, ni á intentarlo siquiera
+por ninguna causa, ni mediante ninguna indemnizacion, y para significar
+mas mi voluntad de permanecer bajo su autoridad en los limites que en este
+Contrato le doy, renuncio desde ahora el derecho de rescision de Contrato
+que otorgan á los colonos los Articulos 27 y 28 de las Ordenanzas sobre
+colonizacion promulgadas por S. M. la Reina <span class="smcap">Da.</span> YSABEL 2<sup>a</sup>. en 22 de Marzo
+de 1854, y el que pudieran otorgarle cualquiera otra ley ó disposiciones
+que en lo sucesivo se publicasen.</p>
+
+<p>8<sup>a</sup>. En cuanto á casos de enfermedad convengo y estipulo, que si esta
+escede de una semana se me suspenda el salario, y que este no vuelva á
+correrme hasta mi restablecimiento ó lo que es igual, hasta que mi salud
+permita ocuparme en el servicio de mi patrono, no obstante el tenor de los
+Articulos 43, 44 y 45 del Reglamento citado, pues tambien renuncio al
+derecho que pudiesen otorgarme para ninguna otra ecsigencia que solo á
+fuerza de tramites costosos y largos pudiera llegar á justificarse ó á ser
+reprovada.</p>
+
+<p>Dn. <span class="smcap">F. Velez</span> se obliga poa su parte para conmigo:
+</p>
+
+<p>1<sup>a</sup>. Aque desde el dia en que principien á contarse los ocho años de mi
+compromiso, principie tambien á correrme el salario de cuatro pesos al
+mes.</p>
+
+<p>2<sup>a</sup>. Aque se me suministre de alimento cada dia ocho onzas de carne salada
+y dos y media libras de boniatas ó de otras viandas sanas y alimenticias.</p>
+
+<p>3<sup>a</sup>. Aque durante mis enfermedades se me proporcione en la
+<!--494.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_482" id="Page_482">482</a></span>enfermeria
+la
+asistencia que mis males reclamen con los ausilios, medicinas y
+facultativo que mis dolencias y conservacion ecsijan fuere por el tiempo
+que fueren.</p>
+
+<p>4<sup>a</sup>. Aque se me dén dos mudas de ropa, una camisa de lana y una frazada
+anuales.</p>
+
+<p>5<sup>a</sup>. Será de cuenta del mismo Señor y por la de quien corresponda mi
+pasage hasta la <span class="smcap">Habana</span> y mi manutencion á bordo.</p>
+
+<p>6<sup>a</sup>. El mismo Señor me adelantará la cantidad de ocho pesos fuertes para
+mi abilitation al viage que voi á emprender.</p>
+
+<p>7<sup>a</sup>. Tambien me dará cuatro mudas de ropa, colcha y de mas avios
+necesarios, cujo importe de pesos 4 con los de la clausula anterior hacen
+la suma de pesos doce, la misma que satisfaré en la <span class="smcap">Habana</span> á la orden de
+la <span class="smcap">Sociedad la Colonizadora</span> con un peso al mes que se descontará de mi
+salario por la persona á quien fuere traspasado este Contrato,
+entendiéndose que por ningun otro concepto podrá hacerseme descuento
+alguno.</p>
+
+<p>DECLARO haber recibido en efectivo y en ropa segun se espresa en la ultima
+clausula la suma de pesos doce mencionados que reintegraré en la HABANA en
+la forma establecida en dicha clausula.</p>
+
+<p>DECLARO tambien que me conformo con el salario estipulado, aunque sé y me
+consta es mucho mayor el que ganan los jornaleros libres y los esclavos en
+la Isla da Cuba, porque esta diferencia la juzgo compensada con las otras
+ventajas que ha de proporcionarme mi patrono, y las que aparecen en este
+Contrato.</p>
+
+<p>Y en fé de que cumpliremos mutuamente lo que queda pactado en este
+documento firmamos dos de un tenor y para un solo efecto ambos
+contratantes en ______ á _____ de 18__.</p>
+
+<div class="right">
+<span class="smcap">Por la Sociedad la Colonizadora</span>.
+</div>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding-top: 1em;">TRANSLATION OF THE FOREGOING.</div>
+
+<p>
+Name________________________   Province__________________</p>
+
+<p>Age___ Business or occupation____________________</p>
+
+<p>I, the under-signed____________ born at__________ in China ____years old,
+have entered into an agreement with Don F. Velez, upon the following
+conditions,
+viz.<!--495.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_483" id="Page_483">483</a></span>&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>1. I engage from the date hereof to embark for the Havannah in the island
+of Cuba in whatever ship the before-mentioned gentleman may appoint.</p>
+
+<p>2. I further promise and engage during the space of eight years to work in
+the said country of Cuba under the orders and regulations of the
+Colonization Society, or of the person to whom the present agreement may
+be assigned, and to perform all necessary agricultural labour in the
+settlement, or wheresoever I may be ordered so to do, whether in a private
+house or in any description of industrial enterprise, or in factories, in
+plantations, in coffee-gardens, at country-seats, or on pasturage grounds,
+and generally all manner of labour, whether in town or country, of what
+description soever it may consist.</p>
+
+<p>3. The eight years during which I bind myself to labour under the
+conditions specified in the last preceding paragraph shall be held to
+commence eight days after my disembarkation in the aforesaid harbour of
+the Havannah, it being always understood that I have been landed in good
+health, or else shall commence on the eighth day after my discharge from
+hospital, in the event of my having landed in ill health or incapable of
+working.</p>
+
+<p>4. The hours during which I bind myself to labour shall depend upon the
+nature of the work which I shall be required to perform, and the degree of
+special attention which such work may require, or may be determined on his
+own responsibility by the master under whose orders I may be placed,
+provided always that I am permitted to enjoy certain hours of repose
+during every 24 hours, and certain fixed periods for breakfast and dinner,
+similar to those assigned to other paid labourers in that country.</p>
+
+<p>5. Besides my hours of rest and recreation during work days, I shall not
+be bound to do any work upon Sundays, beyond such necessary labour as may
+seem to be requisite in the opinion of my employer or employers.</p>
+
+<p>6. I also bind myself to submit to the orders and discipline which may be
+in force in the house of business, farm, or private house in which I am
+employed, and further agree that I shall be amenable to such <i>system of
+punishment</i> as may be in force in such localities for the correction of
+indolence, absence from work, disobedience to the orders of any employers
+<!--496.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_484" id="Page_484">484</a></span>or
+their agents, as also for all such minor offences as may not call for
+the intervention of the law.</p>
+
+<p>7. On no account whatever, and under no circumstances, shall it be lawful
+for me during the aforesaid period of eight years for which I hereby bind
+myself, to absent myself from my employer's service, or to withdraw or
+escape from his authority, or under any circumstance or under any
+provocation to complain against him, and in order to render more binding
+upon me this declaration of my voluntary obedience to all these
+provisions, I <i>renounce</i> from the date of the present subscription the
+right to rescind the provisions of this contract secured to emigrants by
+articles 27 and 28 of the ordinances on colonization promulgated by H. M.
+Queen Isabella II., 22 March, 1854, as also any similar rights that may be
+secured to emigrants by any laws or official documents published or to be
+published in reference thereto.</p>
+
+<p>8. In case of sickness or infirmity I agree and declare that I fully
+consent that if such illness shall exceed one week in duration, my wages
+shall be stopped, and shall remain suspended until my recovery, or, which
+is the same thing, until such time as my health permits me to re-enter the
+service of my employer, without having recourse to the articles 43, 44,
+and 45 of the aforesaid regulations, my rights under which I forego by the
+last preceding paragraph, and do again <i>renounce</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Don F. Velez for his part engages with me:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>1. That from the day on which my said term of eight years' service begins,
+my wages shall be paid at the rate of four Spanish piastres monthly.</p>
+
+<p>2. That there shall be provided me daily eight ounces of salt meat and two
+and a half pounds Boniatas (<i>Jatropha Manihot</i>), or other equally good and
+nutritious food.</p>
+
+<p>3. That in the event of illness I shall be provided in the hospital with
+such things as my case may require, and in particular with all medicines,
+&amp;c., necessary to restore me to health, so long as my illness may last.</p>
+
+<p>4. That I shall be supplied annually with two pairs of trowsers, one
+woollen shirt, and one woollen coat.</p>
+
+<p>5. That my passage to the Havannah and maintenance while on
+<!--497.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_485" id="Page_485">485</a></span>board
+shall
+be defrayed at the expense of my employer or his agent or representative.</p>
+
+<p>6. That my employer shall further pay me eight dollars in order to enable
+me to provide necessaries for the said voyage; and further,</p>
+
+<p>7. That he shall provide me with four pairs of trowsers and a coverlet,
+the same not to exceed four dollars, making with the preceding the sum of
+12 dollars, which 12 dollars I bind myself to repay to the order of the
+Colonization Society, by means of a monthly instalment of one dollar paid
+by the person with whom my labour shall be contracted for, but upon the
+further condition that no other deduction whatever shall be made from my
+said monthly pay.</p>
+
+<p>I hereby declare that, in conformity with the preceding paragraph, I have
+received by way of cash advance and in clothing the equivalent of the said
+12 dollars, which, as already stipulated, shall be repaid by me at the
+Havannah.</p>
+
+<p>I also declare that I am perfectly satisfied with the aforesaid payment,
+although I am aware, and it is well known, that the free labourers, as
+also the negro slaves, in the island of Cuba, are paid a much larger wage.
+But I consider myself recompensed for this difference by the other
+advantages which my employer binds himself to secure to me, and which are
+set forth in the present contract. And in witness that we on either side
+engage that the provisions hereof shall be duly and faithfully carried
+out, we subscribe on that behalf two copies of similar purport this ____
+day of ____ 18__.</p>
+
+<div class="right">
+For the Colonization Society, __________
+
+Signature of emigrant, __________
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<!--498.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_486" id="Page_486">486</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="APPENDIX_D_pp_539-548" id="APPENDIX_D_pp_539-548"></a>APPENDIX D. (pp. 539-548).</h3>
+
+<div class="center">
+DESCRIPTION OF THE TYPHOON ENCOUNTERED IN THE CHINESE SEAS, BY
+H.I.R.M.'s FRIGATE NOVARA, ON THE 18<span class="smcapac">TH</span> AND 19<span class="smcapac">TH</span> AUGUST, 1858.
+</div>
+
+<p>The path of the typhoon has been deduced from comparison with the readings
+of the barometer, with which it corresponds pretty accurately, if due
+allowance be made for the fact, that in determining it the various
+directions in which the line of centres runs must be calculated on the
+supposition that the orbit of the cyclone is circular, which it is not in
+reality, since at any considerable distance from the centre it must be
+elliptical. Hence it is apparent that the rate of velocity of the cyclone
+in advancing along its path follows no fixed law, whereas some such
+regularity undoubtedly exists among the masses of air encountered by the
+cyclone. Hence too the errors thus made in specifying the direction of the
+wind become of considerable importance in this connection, more especially
+in the event of the place of observation being at any distance from the
+centre, or that the path of the cyclone forms a sharp angle when wheeling
+round. Moreover, as actually experienced, the path of the typhoon would
+lie more near the line of the points of observation than a sketch founded
+upon such observations would indicate, and than a general comparison of
+the paths of cyclones founded upon the theory of their gyratory motion
+would substantiate, except in those cases where the observer has been
+directly in the path of the cyclone.</p>
+
+<p>In our case the absolute distances, as specified in the annexed table (see
+p. 490) of fifteen different stations taken during the three days during
+which the cyclone and its premonitory and subsequent symptoms lasted, are
+only assumed, because simultaneous observations of the varying directions
+of the wind could not be taken at various points of the course of the
+cyclone, and in so far may be inaccurate, although the relative distances
+might possibly be tolerably correct.</p>
+
+<p>The observations as to the direction of the wind at noon of the 18th
+August and at the ensuing midnight, give results contradictory to the
+<!--499.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_487" id="Page_487">487</a></span>theory,
+since the wind in both cases is almost the same as would at
+midnight of the 19th indicate a central point, falling actually behind
+that portion of the path of the line of centres already traversed on the
+18th. Upon this showing the direction of the wind at 6 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> of the 18th
+may be assumed as that of the centre of the cyclone. In fact, the path of
+the cyclone at this point lay parallel with the course the ship was
+holding, whence only trifling variations would be observable in the
+direction of the wind at those periods. Besides, the cyclone was at that
+time approaching the vertex of its orbit, in doing which it encountered
+the large and tolerably lofty island of Okinawa-Sima of the Loo-Choo
+group, which must have resulted in a certain expenditure of the force
+causing the gyratory movement of the cyclone. In analyzing the path of the
+cyclone, account must also be taken of the winds that prevailed from the
+17th August up to midnight, although these are to be considered, with
+respect to the cyclone proper, only in so far as they were winds that had
+been altered in direction at the origin of the typhoon in conformity with
+the laws of cyclones, which by no means imply in all cases a perfect
+gyration. However, as these winds are varied in direction by the same
+causes which are in full activity in the case of the cyclones, such
+variations must follow the same laws, and the lines of centres which
+present themselves with reference to these as parts of a circular orbit,
+naturally lie in the same direction as that of the cyclone at its origin.</p>
+
+<p>As early as the 13th August a marked alteration in the temperature of the
+air had been perceptible at Shanghai; the thermometer fell from between
+86° and 95° Fahr. to between 73°.4 and 78°.8 Fahr.: easterly breezes set
+in, and the barometer rose in a remarkable manner for that latitude and
+season. On the 17th the weather was still fine, but the sun set red and
+fiery behind a dense mass of clouds.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the 18th broke with continued fine weather; but cumulous
+clouds were massed on the sky, and looked black and threatening to the
+N.E. By 8 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> the wind and sea had both risen materially. By 3 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> the
+roll of the sea was from N. by E., the sky became still more cloudy, and
+the clouds began to descend; banks of clouds in the direction of the
+central point. At midnight between the 18th and 19th altered course to W.
+by S., in order to run out of the cyclone by reaching its southern
+edge.<!--500.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_488" id="Page_488">488</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the 19th at 8 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> a heavy sea from the northward, the sky a dense mass
+of clouds with very limited horizon; the whole aspect of the heavens a
+grey misty wrack of clouds, gradually falling lower and lower,&mdash;only in
+the direction of the central point was there visible a gloomy,
+leaden-coloured segment of clear horizon. From 4 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> to 8 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> the clouds
+completely enveloped us, so that it was barely possible to descry an
+object a cable's length from the ship; constant gusts of wind with fine
+rain or sea-spray; very heavy sea from the west, but the waves fairly
+decapitated by the wind as fast as they rose. By 11 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span> a few dark clouds
+became visible in the S.S.E., and the horizon began to widen again.</p>
+
+<p>20th. The sky still covered; in the west, white parallel bands of clouds,
+forming segments of circles: the masts and rigging covered with a crust of
+evaporated salt.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="right">Hours from midnight<br />to midnight.</td><td align="center">Mean pressure<br />of atmosphere.</td><td></td><td align="left">Direction of wind.</td><td align="left">Strength of wind 0 to 10.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">17th August.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">29.908</td><td></td><td align="left">S.E. <sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> E.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">.912</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.E. by E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> E.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">.915</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.E. by E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> E.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">.917</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.E. by E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> E.</td><td align="left">2.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">.914</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.E. by E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> E.</td><td align="left">2.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">.913</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E.S.E.</td><td align="left">2.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">.909</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.E. by E. <sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> E.</td><td align="left">2.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">.899</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E.S.E.</td><td align="left">3.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">.886</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.E. by E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> E.</td><td align="left">3.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">.878</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. by S. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> S.</td><td align="left">3.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">.869</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. <sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> S.</td><td align="left">3.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12<span class="smcapac">M.</span></td><td align="right">.860</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> S.</td><td align="left">3.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">.852</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> S.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">.853</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> S.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">.848</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E.</td><td align="left">3.2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">.834</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> N.</td><td align="left">4.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">.817</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E.N.E.</td><td align="left">4.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">29.808</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E.N.E.</td><td align="left">4.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">.810</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> E.</td><td align="left">4.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">.812</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> E.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">.812</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by E.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">.806</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> E.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">.795</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E.N.E.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12</td><td align="right">.784</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E.N.E.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">18th August.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">29.779</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. by N.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">.771</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. by N.</td><td align="left">3.2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">.762</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. by N.</td><td align="left">3.2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">.758</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. by N.</td><td align="left">3.2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">.751</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">E. by N.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">.740</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> E.</td><td align="left">3.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">.721</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by E.</td><td align="left">4.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">.696</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by E.</td><td align="left">4.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><!--501.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_489" id="Page_489">489</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">29.666</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by E.</td><td align="left">5.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">.640</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E.</td><td align="left">5.2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">.612</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> N.</td><td align="left">5.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12<span class="smcapac">M.</span></td><td align="right">.581</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by N.</td><td align="left">6.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">.548</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by N. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> N.</td><td align="left">5.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">.526</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by N.</td><td align="left">6.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">.50</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="left">7.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">.482</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N. by E.</td><td align="left">7.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">.459</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by N.</td><td align="left">7.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">.435</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by N.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">.421</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by N.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">.411</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by N.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">.408</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by N.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">.405</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. <sup>3</sup>&frasl;<sub>4</sub> N.</td><td align="left">8.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">.401</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> N.</td><td align="left">8.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12</td><td align="right">.375</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> N.</td><td align="left">8.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">19th August.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">29.306</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.E. by N.</td><td align="left">5.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">.319</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N. by E.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">.335</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N. by E.</td><td align="left">7.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">.351</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="left">7.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">.364</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> E.</td><td align="left">7.2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">.376</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.</td><td align="left">7.2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">.383</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N. by W.</td><td align="left">6.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">.376</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N. by W. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> W.</td><td align="left">7.2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">.361</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="left">7.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">.347</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.N.W.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">29.324</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.W.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12<span class="smcapac">M.</span></td><td align="right">.295</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.W.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">.268</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.W. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> W.</td><td align="left">7.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">.252</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.W. by W.</td><td align="left">7.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">.238</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.W. by W.</td><td align="left">7.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">.223</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">N.W. by W. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> W.</td><td align="left">7.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">.220</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W. by N. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> N.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">.221</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W. by N. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> N.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">.225</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W. by N. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> N.</td><td align="left">8.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">.229</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W. by N.</td><td align="left">8.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">.233</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W.</td><td align="left">8.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">.243</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W.</td><td align="left">8.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">.256</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W.</td><td align="left">8.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12</td><td align="right">.282</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W. by S.</td><td align="left">9.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" colspan="5">20th August to noon.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">29.351</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W. by S. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> S.</td><td align="left">9.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">.363</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W. by S.</td><td align="left">9.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">.375</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W. by S.</td><td align="left">9.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">.413</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W. by S.</td><td align="left">9.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">.437</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">W.S.W.</td><td align="left">7.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">.457</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.W. by W.</td><td align="left">7.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">.457</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.W. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> W.</td><td align="left">6.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">.471</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.W.</td><td align="left">6.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">.489</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.W. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> S.</td><td align="left">6.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">.505</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.W. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> S.</td><td align="left">6.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">.512</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.W. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> S.</td><td align="left">6.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12<span class="smcapac">M.</span></td><td align="right">.515</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="left">S.W. <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>2</sub> S.</td><td align="left">6.5</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The barometric readings are corrected to the freezing-point density of the
+atmosphere, as also to the level of the ocean, and are further reduced by
+comparison with the Standard Barometer at the New Observatory.
+<!--502.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_490" id="Page_490">490</a></span>They
+are
+also relieved of a source of error arising from the regular decline for
+each day of the barometer, as evidenced by the observations made during
+June and July, 1858, in mean latitude 23° 52&#8242; N., mean longitude 119° 12&#8242;
+E. This downward tendency will be apparent from the following readings for
+each hour:&mdash;for 1h. (<span class="smcapac">A.M.</span>) - 0.004, 2h. - 0.005, 3h. - 0.0012, 4h. -
+0.015, 5h. - 0.012, 6h. - 0.006, 7h. - 0.02, 8h. - 0.012, 9h. - 0.021,
+10h. - 0.02, 11h. - 0.018, noon - 0.015, 1h. - 0.008, 2h. - 0.007, 3h. -
+0.021, 4h. - 0.025, 5h. - 0.023, 6h. - 0.015, 7h. - 0.008, 8h. - 0.001,
+9h. - 0.008, 10h. - 0.014, 11h. - 0.015, 12h. (midnight) - 0.011. These
+quantities are to be read as implying that when added to or deducted from
+those supplied by actual observations, they result in the quantities
+already assigned as the corrected averages for the day. The direction as
+well as strength of the wind are copied from the averages as calculated by
+the Commodore from the ship's log, the meteorological journals and the
+daily postings made by the Commodore himself.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<p>According to the delineation of the path of the cyclone, as prepared from
+the observations recorded, the following table, already referred to, gives
+the approximative distance of the ship at stated points from such central
+path, as compared with that deduced from barometrical observations,
+allowing for the differences already mentioned. In the case of the
+wind-pressure, the average is deduced from the mean of successive
+observations taken every hour, and for the most part divided into
+intervals of three hours each.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td align="center">&nbsp;</td><td align="left">Distance.</td><td align="center">Air-pressure.</td><td align="center">Difference.</td><td align="center">Distance according<br />to curve.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="center">17th</td><td align="center">August</td><td align="left">4 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span></td><td align="center">336</td><td align="center">29.915 in.</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="center">336</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">noon.</td><td align="center">297</td><td align="center">.860</td><td align="center">0.055</td><td align="center">300</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="center">18th</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">midnight.</td><td align="center">265</td><td align="center">.783</td><td align="center">.132</td><td align="center">257</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">6 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span></td><td align="center">230</td><td align="center">.736</td><td align="center">.178</td><td align="center">233</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">9 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span></td><td align="center">205</td><td align="center">.667</td><td align="center">.248</td><td align="center">205</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">6 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span></td><td align="center">153</td><td align="center">.438</td><td align="center">.477</td><td align="center">153</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="center">19th</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">3 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span></td><td align="center">140</td><td align="center">.335</td><td align="center">.580</td><td align="center">138</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">5 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span></td><td align="center">148</td><td align="center">.364</td><td align="center">.551</td><td align="center">142</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">8 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span></td><td align="center">146</td><td align="center">.373</td><td align="center">.542</td><td align="center">143</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">noon.</td><td align="center">125</td><td align="center">.296</td><td align="center">.619</td><td align="center">130</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">11</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">3 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span></td><td align="center">123</td><td align="center">.238</td><td align="center">.677</td><td align="center">122</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">12</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">6 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span></td><td align="center">134</td><td align="center">.222</td><td align="center">.693</td><td align="center">138</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">13</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">9 <span class="smcapac">P.M.</span></td><td align="center">148</td><td align="center">.235</td><td align="center">.680</td><td align="center">144</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">14</td><td align="center">20th</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">midnight.</td><td align="center">183</td><td align="center">.296</td><td align="center">.619</td><td align="center">183</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">15</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">6 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span></td><td align="center">313</td><td align="center">.450</td><td align="center">.465</td><td align="center">313</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<!--503.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_491" id="Page_491">491</a></span></p>
+<p>The minimum pressure according to the curve would be 28.975, but must
+actually have been less. According to the strict reading it would result
+that all radii before reaching the point where nearest the central path,
+as also all those in the same half-circle after such central line has been
+crossed, should have the same value, whatever the direction, which if
+rigidly asserted cannot be correct, since the motion of a cyclone is truly
+circular only in the immediate vicinity of its central point. As that
+point is receded from, the motion becomes more or less elliptical, as is
+attested by the barometric differences, which had the cyclone been a true
+circle in all its parts ought to be similar for similar distances. This it
+is admitted is not the case, as the barometric pressure shows a marked
+decline in the earlier part of a cyclone the more rapidly the central line
+is approached, just as it rises again once that line has been passed.</p>
+
+<p>For this reason the distances as assigned upon a line of curves deduced
+from the foregoing observations must be too great, especially those which
+are calculated at right angles to the path of the typhoon, because
+perpendiculars drawn at right angles to the varying directions of the wind
+must intersect each other at points more distant than the actual central
+point of the cyclone itself.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+
+<p>To the foregoing may be appended a few extracts recounting the damage done
+by the great typhoon of 27th July, 1862, from which some idea may be
+formed of the tremendous violence and destructive effects of this
+description of atmospheric agency.</p>
+
+<p><i>From London and China Telegraph, 29th Sept., 1862.</i></p>
+
+<p>"A dreadful typhoon occurred at Canton on 27th July, 1862. The destruction
+of life and property is immense, the loss of life in the city and
+neighbourhood being estimated at about forty thousand. In the telegram
+which was received a few days ago announcing this event, a query was
+placed, and very reasonably, after the number stated; but the press state
+that as far as inquiries have been made at present it is probably correct.
+The loss of life has chiefly occurred amongst the junk population, and the
+fine new fleet of forty Imperial junks, intended for the Yang-tse-kiang,
+has been destroyed. The water rose till the streets of Honam had three
+feet in them, but the buildings suffered less than might have been
+expected; some two or three hundred feet of the granite
+<!--504.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_492" id="Page_492">492</a></span>wall
+at Shameen
+was washed away, and blocks of stone were driven about as if they had been
+billets of wood; houses in the city had also been blown down, and trees
+rooted up; the rice crops have suffered severely; and the total damage may
+be estimated in millions of dollars. Mr. Gaillard, an American Missionary,
+was killed by the falling in of his house; and the residences of the Rev.
+Messrs. Bonney and Piercey were thrown down, a large junk having been
+driven up against them. At Whampoa the docks were all flooded, while the
+workshops attached were unroofed and otherwise injured. From the <i>China
+Mail</i>, which gives a long and graphic description of this disastrous
+visitation, we extract the following:&mdash;'The British brig <i>Mexicana</i>
+capsized in Hall and Co.'s dock, and lies on her beam-ends; the British
+ship <i>Dewa Gungadhur</i> is lying on her side in Gow and Co.'s dock; the
+British steamer <i>Antelope</i>, in the Chinese dock at the corner of Junk
+River, has her bow run up over the head of the dock, and her stern at an
+angle of thirty degrees into it; the British steamer <i>Bombay Castle</i> was
+washed off the blocks in Couper's wooden dock, and was scuttled by her
+captain to save her from being floated out of the dock; the American ship
+<i>Washington</i> is aground, blocking up the entrance to the Chinese dock in
+Junk River; the American ship <i>Jacob Bell</i> and British barque <i>Cannata</i>
+are high on a mud flat, dry at low water&mdash;the latter making water, and
+discharging her cargo; the new British steamer <i>Whampoa</i> broke from her
+moorings and went ashore, but has since been got off without injury.
+Several chops sunk, and five of the foreign Customs' inspectors were
+drowned. Many junks went down with all hands. Bamboo-town is entirely
+destroyed, the water having flooded it to the depth of six feet, and swept
+off a great number of its inhabitants. It is greatly to be feared that the
+disasters among the shipping outside will prove something frightful, and
+that many vessels now anxiously expected have either been driven on the
+rocks and gone to pieces or have foundered at sea. Already, it will have
+been observed, one dismasted vessel, the Danish brig <i>Hercules</i>, has come
+in; and more may be looked for in the course of the next fortnight. The
+<i>Iskandershah</i> is on shore in the river, close to Tiger Island, a little
+above the Bogue.' One writer says the city looks just as it did after the
+bombardment by Admiral Seymour, and that there has not been such a typhoon
+since
+1832.<!--505.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_493" id="Page_493">493</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"The typhoon which visited Canton so severely also committed great ravages
+at the port of Macao. The loss of life was very great. Many junks were
+sunk or driven ashore, and their crews drowned. The <i>Chilo</i>, a British
+ship engaged in the rice trade, went ashore, and is a total wreck; and
+another vessel was also reported lost. The wharves have suffered severely,
+and houses were blown down. A letter, dated 28th July, says:&mdash;'Yesterday
+morning a very strong typhoon did a great deal of damage here. The new sea
+wall on the Praia Grande stood it well, except in one place; but the old
+one, which has stood so many typhoons before, is now nearly entirely
+broken down; also Messrs. De Mello and Co.'s wharf. Some houses have come
+down, and trees on the Praia and other places have lost nearly all their
+branches. The British barque <i>Chilo</i> got ashore outside, and has parted
+amidships; about 100 piculs copper cash have been saved from her cargo.
+The steamer <i>Syce</i> is ashore in the inner harbour, but without damage. A
+good many junks and boats have capsized or been dismasted, and a great
+many lives lost. The appearance of the Praia Grande after the typhoon was
+really astonishing. We had a very short notice or indication of a typhoon.
+On Saturday night the wind commenced to blow from N.E., but not before
+Sunday morning, about a quarter past four, did the barometer go down, and
+it stood at 8 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> at 28.60; thermometer 81. At about 10 <span class="smcapac">A.M.</span> it was
+blowing hardest from S.W., and caused the greatest
+damage.'"</p>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--506.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_494" id="Page_494">494</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="VOL_III" id="VOL_III"></a>VOL. III.</h2>
+
+<h3>APPENDIX I. (p. 13.)</h3>
+
+<p><i>The following reprint (by permission) from the columns of the
+"Spectator" of 11th Oct. and 25th Oct., 1862, conveys so
+accurate an idea of the achievements of the gallant and lamented
+Burke and Wills, and of the mismanagement that led to their
+disastrous fate, that no apology is needed for inserting it
+here.</i></p>
+
+<div class="center" style="padding: 1em 0 1em 0;">THE AUSTRALIAN
+EXPLORING EXPEDITION OF 1860.<a name="FNanchor_159_159"
+id="FNanchor_159_159"></a><a href="#Footnote_159_159" class="fnanchor">[159]</a></div>
+
+<div class="center">(<i>Spectator, 11th and 25th Oct., 1862.</i>)</div>
+
+<p>"Those who are interested&mdash;and who is not?&mdash;in the history of the latest
+and most successful of Australian exploring expeditions will find the
+principal materials requisite for the satisfaction of their curiosity in
+the small volume now before us. The special interest attaching to this
+particular expedition lies in the striking contrast which it presents
+between the perfect success of its leaders and their melancholy end.
+Having accomplished their arduous task of traversing the Australian
+continent from south to north, Messrs. Burke and Wills returned to their
+starting-point, only to find that the dépôt which they had established
+there had been abandoned by their companions less than twelve hours before
+their arrival. Utterly broken down by privation and fatigue, and
+disappointed of the succour on which they had confidently relied, they
+were unable to traverse the comparatively trifling distance which
+separated them from the settled districts, and, after some weeks of
+hopeless wandering, they were literally starved to death when almost
+within sight of aid. The story of these few weeks, as contained in the
+scanty records left by Messrs. Burke and Wills, and in the statement made
+by their sole surviving companion, is one of the most touching narratives
+of human fortitude that we have ever met with. The feeling of sympathy,
+almost painful in its intensity, which it necessarily excites, is
+immediately followed by a desire to ascertain the precise quarter in
+<!--507.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_495" id="Page_495">495</a></span>which
+the gross neglect which alone could have rendered such a
+catastrophe possible can justly be charged. It is to this point that we
+propose mainly to direct the remarks which we have to make on Mr.
+Jackson's volume; and we shall recapitulate the history of the expedition
+only so far as is absolutely necessary to render our observations
+generally intelligible.</p>
+
+<p>"The exploring party left Melbourne on August 20, 1860. It was accompanied
+by a number of camels, which had been imported for the purpose, on the
+supposition that these animals would be peculiarly fitted to bear the
+privations incidental to such a journey. The party was headed by Mr.
+Robert O'Hara Burke. Mr. Landells, who had charge of the camels, was
+second in command; and the third officer was Mr. William John Wills, who
+also acted as astronomical and meteorological observer to the expedition.
+On September 23 they reached Menindie, on the Darling river, about 400
+miles from Melbourne. Here Mr. Landells, in consequence of some
+disagreement with Mr. Burke, resigned his post; and Dr. Beckler, the
+medical officer to the expedition, declined to go any further. Hereupon
+Burke appointed Wills in Landells' place, and divided his party, leaving
+one section at Menindie, in charge of Beckler, while he, with Wills and
+six others, pushed on, on October 19, for Cooper's Creek, about 400 miles
+further north, under the guidance of one Wright, a man acquainted with the
+country, whom he met with on the spot. On October 31, when about half-way
+between Menindie and Cooper's Creek, Burke appointed Wright third officer,
+and sent him back to the Darling, with instructions to bring up the
+remainder of the party and stores to Cooper's Creek without delay. He then
+pushed on, and reached the Creek on November 11. He remained here about a
+month, and then again divided his party. Three men, six camels, and twelve
+horses were left at the dépôt on the Creek, under the command of Mr.
+Brahé, whose instructions were to remain till Burke's return, or until he
+was forced to retreat by want of provisions. Burke started on December 16,
+taking with him Wills, King, and Gray, six camels, one horse, and
+provisions for three months, which was the time he expected to be absent;
+but he told Brahé that he might be away four months, or even more. On
+February 11, 1861, he reached a point only a few miles from the shore of
+the Gulf of Carpentaria, and thus accomplished his
+<!--508.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_496" id="Page_496">496</a></span>mission
+of entirely
+crossing the Australian Continent from south to north. He at once retraced
+his steps, and arrived at the dépôt in Cooper's Creek on April 21,
+accompanied by Wills and King, Gray having died a few days before. They
+found that Brahé had quitted his post that very morning, and started for
+the Darling, leaving some provisions buried at the foot of a tree, on
+which he had cut an inscription indicating the fact. The exhausted
+explorers debated what they had best do. Wills and King wished to make for
+Menindie; but Burke, thinking that, weak as they were, it was hopeless to
+try to overtake Brahé, decided to push for the nearest settled districts
+of South Australia, distant about 150 miles. This they did on April 23,
+having left a note in Brahé's <i>cache</i>, but without adding anything to his
+inscription on the tree, or leaving any distinct intimation that they had
+ever been there. But the enterprise was beyond their strength. They were
+so weak that they could not advance more than five or six miles a day;
+their camels knocked up, their provisions ran short; and, finally, Burke
+died on July 1st, Wills having succumbed a day or two earlier. King, the
+sole survivor, fell in with the natives, who treated him kindly; and he
+was rescued on September 15th by a party sent from Melbourne in search of
+him, under the guidance of Mr. Howitt.</p>
+
+<p>"We must now return to Mr. Wright, and see how he carried out the
+instructions given him by his chief. Mr. Burke, as we have already said,
+sent him back to Menindie on October 31, 1860; and he reached that place
+on November 5. Here, in the teeth of Burke's orders to bring the rest of
+the party on to Cooper's Creek <i>without delay</i>, he remained inactive until
+January 26, 1861, when he appears to have moved northward. He never,
+however, got further than Bullo, a place about sixty miles south of
+Cooper's Creek, where Mr. Brahé fell in with him on April 29, and at once
+placed himself under his orders. Two days later Wright left Bullo, and
+moved a few miles further south, "not seeing the utility of pushing on the
+dépôt to Cooper's Creek for the purpose of remaining there the few weeks
+their stores would last." On May 3, at Brahé's suggestion, Wright and he
+returned to the dépôt on Cooper's Creek, taking no stores with them. They
+remained there a quarter of an hour, did not examine the <i>cache</i>, and
+then, seeing no signs of Burke having been there, rejoined the rest of
+their party, and made their way
+<!--509.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_497" id="Page_497">497</a></span>back
+to the Darling, whence Brahé at once
+proceeded to Melbourne. On hearing his report, the Exploration Committee
+lost no time in despatching the relief party, under Mr. Howitt, which, as
+we have already said, discovered King in the following September.</p>
+
+<p>"After the foregoing brief summary of the facts of the case, the reader
+will probably have but little difficulty in coming to the conclusion that
+the death of Messrs. Burke and Wills was, in great measure, owing to Mr.
+Wright's having so unaccountably neglected to obey the distinct
+instructions of his chief. Mr. Jackson, indeed, holds that no one but
+Wright was at all to blame in the matter. Nay, he even goes so far as to
+accuse Wright of having wilfully and deliberately left the leaders of the
+expedition to a fate which he must have known would be the natural result
+of his inaction. 'Can any reasonable person,' he asks, 'doubt that Wright
+knew perfectly well the exact nature of his instructions, and foresaw the
+disastrous consequences almost certain to ensue should they be
+disregarded.' This very serious charge is based upon a passage in a
+despatch from Mr. Wright to the Exploration Committee at Melbourne, dated
+Dec. 19th, in which he says:&mdash;'As I have every reason to believe that Mr.
+Burke has pushed on from Cooper's Creek, relying upon finding the dépôt
+stores at that water-course upon his return, there is room for the most
+serious apprehensions as to the safety of himself and party, should he
+find that he has miscalculated.' This passage seems at least to prove that
+Wright had fully comprehended both the meaning and the object of the
+instructions he had received, <i>to return to Menindie, and bring up the
+stores as rapidly as possible to Cooper's Creek</i>. In the teeth of these
+positive orders he remained at Menindie no less than eighty-two days, from
+Nov. 5th, 1860, to Jan. 26th, 1861, doing literally nothing at all. There
+was, as far as we can see, nothing to prevent him from reaching Cooper's
+Creek with a portion of the stores before the end of 1860. The distance
+from Menindie to the Creek is about 400 miles, and Mr. Burke had traversed
+it without difficulty in twenty-three days. When Burke left Cooper's Creek
+on December 16th, he was in daily expectation of Wright's arrival. Had
+this reasonable expectation been fulfilled, there would then have been no
+reason why Brahé should not have remained at the dépôt for six months, or
+even a longer time. Wright appears to have spent a considerable portion of
+the time which he wasted at Menindie
+<!--510.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_498" id="Page_498">498</a></span>in
+making trips to see his wife and
+family, who were at a station about twenty-one miles off, being troubled
+with fears that they would not get safely and comfortably to Adelaide,
+whither he wished to send them. The explanation by which he subsequently
+endeavoured to account for his delay was anything but satisfactory. In the
+despatch already referred to, dated Dec. 29th, he alleged that he 'delayed
+starting merely because the camels left behind by Mr. Brahé were too few
+in number, and too inferior in carrying powers, to carry out a really
+serviceable quantity of provisions.' When, however, he was examined by the
+Commissioners appointed to inquire into the affair, he stated that he
+remained at Menindie because he was waiting for the confirmation of his
+appointment as third officer. When pressed to reconcile these two
+statements, and reminded that, unless he could do so satisfactorily, he
+'stood in an awkward position before the Commission,' he made no reply.
+When at last he did set out from Menindie, we have seen that he advanced
+no further than Bullo, where he was joined by Brahé on April 29th. In
+explanation of this circumstance, he urges that Burke had left Menindie at
+a favourable season, when water was abundant; while when he started the
+advance of summer had dried up all the water-courses, and the ravages of
+scurvy had reduced the effective strength of his party to an alarming
+extent. This statement is, no doubt, substantially true; but we need
+hardly observe that it rather aggravates than extenuates his offence.
+Since he was well acquainted with the country, and knew that the advance
+of summer would immensely increase the difficulty of traversing it, he is
+all the more inexcusable for not having attempted the journey before the
+hot weather set in. When, after having been joined by Brahé, he paid a
+final visit to Cooper's Creek, the careless manner in which he conducted
+the search almost drives us to the conclusion that he was completely
+indifferent to its result. It was at Brahé's suggestion that he went back
+at all. Then though both he and Brahé were mounted, and were accompanied
+by a spare pack-horse, he did not, although the contingency of finding
+Burke's party was the sole object of his journey, attempt to provide for
+it by taking with him any stores of any kind. On reaching the dépôt, he
+stayed there only a quarter of an hour, and then, having failed in that
+time to discover any trace of Burke's party, at once turned his back on
+<!--511.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_499" id="Page_499">499</a></span>the
+Creek. It is scarcely possible to imagine how, under such
+circumstances, he could have omitted to examine the <i>cache</i> made by Brahé
+a few days before, in which case he would have discovered that Burke's
+party had returned to the Creek, and would have learnt the direction in
+which they had gone. When questioned on this point by the Commissioners,
+he replied that he had noticed traces of natives about the place, and
+feared that if he disturbed the ground where the stores were hid they
+would see that something was buried there, and would plunder the <i>cache</i>.
+He 'had not the presence of mind,' he went on, to add any mark of his own
+to the inscription which Brahé had cut upon the tree. He seems, in fact,
+to have been thoroughly sick of the whole business, and to have thought of
+nothing but getting back to the settled districts with all possible speed.</p>
+
+<p>"We must now inquire what amount of blame can be fairly attached to Mr.
+Brahé, whose departure from Cooper's Creek was the immediate cause of the
+melancholy end of Messrs. Burke and Wills. He appears to have received
+instructions to remain at the Creek until the return of Burke's party, or,
+at any rate, until the failure of his provisions obliged him to retreat.
+Burke fixed three months as the probable duration of his absence; but
+Wills seems to have impressed upon Brahé that it was quite possible they
+might have been away for at least four months. Brahé did actually remain
+there more than four months&mdash;from December 16th to April 21st;&mdash;but he
+left before he was absolutely compelled to do so. Even supposing him not
+to have overrated the supply of provisions necessary to carry his party
+back to the Darling, he could clearly have remained until he had consumed
+the stores which he left behind him at the Creek. But we must not forget
+that he was placed in a very difficult position. One of his companions was
+dangerously ill, and had for some time beset him with entreaties to return
+to Menindie; and all his party seem to have thought it very doubtful
+whether Burke would return that way at all. In Brahé's diary, on April
+18th, we find the entry, 'There is no probability of Mr. Burke returning
+this way.' Here the observation suggests itself that, had this been his
+real conviction, there was no occasion for him to deprive himself of the
+stores which he left behind him. Mr. Jackson points out that the letter
+left by Brahé in the <i>cache</i> at the Creek did not give a true account of
+the condition of
+<!--512.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_500" id="Page_500">500</a></span>his
+party. In it Brahé said that they were all quite
+well except one, and that the camels and horses were in good working
+condition. It was this intelligence which induced Burke to decide to make
+a push for South Australia. Had he known that Brahé's party, both men and
+beasts, were really in a weak and exhausted state, as the slowness of
+their rate of progression appears to prove, he would probably have decided
+to follow in their track. Since Brahé was under Wright's command at the
+time of their final return to Cooper's Creek, the lamentable carelessness
+which, as we have already said, was displayed on that occasion, cannot
+fairly be laid to his charge. It is almost impossible for us, with the
+full knowledge of all the circumstances which we now possess, not to allow
+our judgment to be influenced by the fact that, if Brahé had postponed his
+departure for a few hours only, the melancholy catastrophe would not have
+occurred. If, however, we wish to judge him fairly, we must not forget
+that this is a fact of which, at the time of his departure, he was
+necessarily ignorant. On the whole, we are inclined to agree with the
+verdict pronounced in his case by the Commissioners who were appointed to
+inquire into the affair. 'His decision,' they say, 'was most unfortunate;
+but we believe he acted from a conscientious desire to discharge his duty,
+and we are confident that the painful reflection that twenty-four hours'
+further perseverance would have made him the rescuer of the explorers, and
+gained for himself the praise and approbation of all, must be of itself an
+agonizing thought, without the addition of censure he might feel himself
+undeserving of.'</p>
+
+<p>"We have now to inquire into the manner in which Mr. Burke discharged his
+duties as leader of the expedition, with a view of ascertaining whether
+its melancholy termination can, in any degree, be traced to any fault,
+whether of omission or of commission, on his part. If we are willing to
+submit ourselves absolutely to Mr. Jackson's guidance, we may, indeed,
+spare ourselves this trouble; for he asserts most distinctly that Mr.
+Burke invariably did what was best under existing circumstances, and that
+he never neglected any precaution which could tend in any way to bring his
+undertaking to a successful issue. But we must remember that Mr. Jackson
+comes forward as the avowed advocate of Mr. Burke; and, while we are not
+one whit behind him in enthusiastic admiration for the energy and
+self-devotion displayed by his hero, we must not allow
+<!--513.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_501" id="Page_501">501</a></span>our
+respect for
+these qualities to blind us to any defects which we think we can detect in
+the conduct of the expedition. The report of the Commission, appointed by
+the Victorian Government to inquire into the circumstances connected with
+the death of Burke and Wills, finds fault with Burke on several points,
+which we will proceed to consider in detail. In the first place, it
+pronounces that Burke acted 'most injudiciously' in dividing his party at
+Menindie. We are not sure that we can entirely concur in this verdict. We
+do not see any evidence that Burke intended the dépôt at Menindie to be a
+permanent one. On the contrary, it seems clear that he intended it to have
+been transferred bodily to Cooper's Creek. On his arrival at Menindie, Dr.
+Beckler's refusal to proceed further placed him in an awkward position. As
+Beckler had no objection to remain at Menindie, Burke resolved to make his
+services available as far as possible, and left him there with a section
+of the party in charge of the heavier stores, while he himself pushed on
+towards Cooper's Creek under the guidance of Mr. Wright. The division of
+the party did not in any way retard or imperil Burke's arrival at Cooper's
+Creek; and he seems to have looked forward to the union of all his forces
+at that place before he proceeded further. As soon as he was convinced
+that Wright was worthy of confidence, he appointed him third officer of
+the expedition, and sent him back to bring the remainder of the party to
+Cooper's Creek without delay, at the same time accepting Beckler's
+resignation, and relieving him from any further charge. We cannot
+therefore see that the division of the party at Menindie was directly
+productive of any evil consequences, nor would any harm have resulted from
+it, but for Wright's flagrant neglect of the instructions of his chief. In
+the next place, the report pronounces that 'it was an error of judgment on
+the part of Mr. Burke to appoint Mr. Wright to an important command in the
+expedition, without a previous personal knowledge of him.' On this point
+we think there is good ground for the censure of the Commission. That
+Burke was, as it were, driven into a corner by the resignation of Landells
+and Beckler is quite true; but it is difficult to imagine that he should
+not have been able (supposing him to possess any insight into character at
+all) to detect, during the time that he and Wright were together, some
+indication of the gross incompetence which the latter subsequently
+displayed. Mr. Jackson endeavours to shift the
+<!--514.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_502" id="Page_502">502</a></span>blame
+from Mr. Burke's
+shoulders to those of the Exploration Committee, by observing that the
+Committee knew of Wright's appointment by Dec. 3, and so had plenty of
+time, if they had had any objection to him, to replace him by some one
+else. What objection could the Committee possibly have to a man whose name
+they had never heard before that moment? Clearly they are not to blame for
+relying upon the judgment of the leader whom they had selected, and
+confirming his appointment of a man who he assured them 'was well
+qualified for the post, and bore the very highest character.' Whatever
+blame may attach to the selection of Mr. Wright for a post of trust must
+rest entirely upon Mr. Burke. The Commissioners next proceed to blame Mr.
+Burke for finally departing from Cooper's Creek before the arrival of the
+dépôt party from Menindie, and for undertaking so extended a journey with
+an insufficient supply of provisions. On both these points there is
+something to be said in Mr. Burke's favour. As regards the first, his
+conduct was the natural result of his misplaced confidence in Wright,
+combined with the consideration that the success of his journey depended
+in great measure upon the rapidity with which it was prosecuted. With
+respect to the second, we must remember that on an expedition of this
+kind, when the carrying power is limited, and every ounce of weight has to
+be considered, it is almost as important to exclude everything that is
+superfluous as it is to leave behind nothing that is strictly necessary.
+It seems probable, however, that Mr. Burke was guilty of an error in
+judgment, in underrating the time which the journey from Cooper's Creek to
+Carpentaria was likely to require. Finally, the Commissioners draw
+attention to the fact that it does not appear that Burke kept any regular
+journal, or that he gave written instructions to his officers. 'Had he,'
+they observe on this point&mdash;and we fully concur in their
+remark&mdash;'performed these essential portions of the duties of a leader,
+many of the calamities of the expedition might have been averted, and
+little or no room would have been left for doubt in judging of the conduct
+of those subordinates, who pleaded unsatisfactory and contradictory verbal
+orders and statements.'</p>
+
+<p>"We are unable, the reader will perceive, to concur in Mr. Jackson's
+repeatedly expressed opinion, that there are no grounds whatever for any
+of the censures which the Commissioners found it their duty to
+<!--515.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_503" id="Page_503">503</a></span>pronounce
+on some points connected with Mr. Burke's management of the expedition.
+The fact is, that after a careful consideration of all the circumstances
+of the case, we incline to the conclusion that Mr. Burke did not possess
+the qualifications necessary for the successful leadership of such an
+enterprise; and that, consequently, some blame must rest with the
+Exploration Committee, who selected a comparatively unfit person for a
+position of such responsibility and importance. We appreciate and admire,
+as enthusiastically as Mr. Jackson himself can possibly do, the courage
+and self-devotion displayed by Mr. Burke; but we cannot forget that
+gallantry and daring are not the only qualities required in the leader of
+an exploring expedition through an unknown and difficult country. The
+choice of the Committee was, we believe, mainly dictated by the
+consideration that Mr. Burke had, while employed in the police-force of
+the colony, shown himself to be possessed of a considerable talent for
+organization, and of no little aptitude for command. They appear not to
+have attached sufficient importance to the not less material fact, that he
+knew nothing of bush-travelling, and had no practical experience of the
+preparations and precautions necessary for the successful prosecution of
+such a journey as that with which he was entrusted. Mr. Jackson calls upon
+us to observe that it was to the <i>rapidity</i> of Mr. Burke's progress that
+his ultimate success is due; and the observation is, to a great extent,
+justified by facts. It appears to us, however, that most, if not all, of
+the errors of judgment of which he was guilty, during the progress of the
+expedition, are directly traceable to the same quality of mind which
+rendered him so prompt in action. The Commissioners hit the blot in his
+character when they pronounced that 'his zeal was greater than his
+prudence.' The examination of his proceedings which we have already made
+affords, we think, ample grounds for this conclusion. We have, however,
+met with one passage in the records of the expedition which exhibits Mr.
+Burke's constitutional hastiness of temper and want of judgment in so
+strong a light, that we cannot refrain from placing it before the reader.
+It occurs in King's narrative of the attempt made by himself, Burke, and
+Wills, to reach the settled districts of South Australia, after they had
+found the dépôt at Cooper's Creek deserted. Mr. Wills had gone back to the
+dépôt, and Burke and King were awaiting his return. King proceeds as
+follows:<!--516.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_504" id="Page_504">504</a></span>&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"'A few days after Mr. Wills left, some natives came down to the creek to
+fish at some water-holes near our camp. They were civil to us at first,
+and offered us some fish; on the second day they came again to fish, and
+Mr. Burke took down two bags, which they filled for him; on the third day
+they gave us one bag of fish, and afterwards all came to our camp. We used
+to keep our ammunition and other articles in one gunyah, and all three of
+us lived together in another. One of the natives took an oil-cloth out of
+this gunyah; and Mr. Burke, seeing him run away with it, followed him with
+his revolver, and fired over his head, and upon this the native dropped
+the oil-cloth. While he was away, the other blacks invited me away to a
+water-hole to eat fish, but I declined to do so, as Mr. Burke was away,
+and a number of natives were about who would have taken all our things.
+When I refused, one took his boomerang and laid it over my shoulder, and
+then told me by signs that if I called out for Mr. Burke, as I was doing,
+that he would strike me. Upon this, I got them all in front of the gunyah,
+and fired a revolver over their heads; but they did not seem at all
+afraid, until I got out the gun, when they all ran away. Mr. Burke,
+hearing the report, came back, and we saw no more of them until late that
+night, when they came with some cooked fish, and called out, "White
+fellow." Mr. Burke then went out with his revolver, and found a whole
+tribe coming down, all painted, and with fish in small nets carried by two
+men. Mr. Burke went to meet them, and they wished to surround him; but he
+knocked as many of the nets of fish out of their hands as he could, and
+shouted out to me to fire. I did so, and they ran off. We collected about
+five small nets of cooked fish. The reason he would not accept the fish
+from them was, that he was afraid of being too friendly, lest they should
+be always at our camp. We then lived on fish until Mr. Wills returned.'</p>
+
+<p>"This method of dealing with the natives was surely, to say the least of
+it, exceedingly injudicious. They had, it appears, always shown themselves
+friendly to the explorers; and, in the weak state of the party, it was
+little short of madness to run the risk of disturbing the friendly
+relations between them and the blacks by any act of violence. And yet we
+find Mr. Burke actually attacking them, and taking forcibly from them the
+food which they had always shown themselves ready to give;
+<!--517.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_505" id="Page_505">505</a></span>and
+for no
+better reason than that 'he was afraid of their being too friendly, lest
+they should be always at the camp.' Not many days later Mr. Burke died
+while making a last attempt to rejoin those very natives whom he had
+driven away. It is scarcely possible to avoid the conclusion that Mr.
+Burke's judgment must have been materially weakened by the sufferings and
+privations he had undergone, before he could possibly have acted in so
+utterly unaccountable a manner.</p>
+
+<p>"We must now say a few words as to the route taken by Mr. Burke on his
+journey from Cooper's Creek to Carpentaria, and the nature of the country
+through which he passed. His first idea after reaching the Creek was to
+proceed due north, and four tentative expeditions were made in that
+direction, one of which was pushed to a distance of ninety miles. Finding,
+however, that the ground was too rough, either for horses or camels, he
+finally resolved to proceed in a north-westerly direction as far as Eyre's
+Creek, and at that point turned northward, and crossed the continent by a
+route which lies mainly on or about the 140th meridian of east longitude.
+The country does not appear to be difficult to traverse; and Mr. Wills
+tells us that the worst travelling-ground they met with was between Bullo
+and Cooper's Creek. As regards the nature of the land, Mr. Burke briefly
+sums it up in the following words: 'There is some good country between
+this (Cooper's Creek) and the Stony Desert. From thence to the tropics the
+country is dry and stony. Between the tropics and Carpentaria a
+considerable portion is rangy, but is well watered and richly grassed.'
+Mr. Wills reports that 'as to pasture, it is only the actually stony
+ground that is bare, and many a sheep-run is, in fact, worse grazing than
+that.' As regards the supply of water, it appears that the expedition,
+except when actually crossing the desert, never passed a day in which they
+did not traverse the banks of, or cross, a creek or other water-course.
+The whole country appears, in short, to be admirably adapted for pastoral
+purposes, and its discovery cannot but add largely to the resources of the
+Australian colonies. Sir Henry Barkly, the Governor of Victoria, in a
+despatch to the Duke of Newcastle, states that the occupation of "Burke's
+Land" with stock is already seriously contemplated by the squatters, and
+that there seems little reason to doubt that in the course of a few years
+the journey from Melbourne to Carpentaria will be performed with
+comparative
+<!--518.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_506" id="Page_506">506</a></span>facility
+by passing from station to station. He adds that
+much of the country traversed by the expedition between the Darling and
+Cooper's Creek is already taken up, so that both sheep and cattle are now
+depastured within 25 miles of Bullo, stretching thence easterly along the
+Queensland boundary in an almost unbroken chain. These anticipations are
+fully confirmed by the report of Mr. Landsborough, the Queensland
+explorer. This gentleman, who has crossed the continent from Carpentaria
+to Melbourne, gives the most favourable account of the pastoral
+capabilities of the country which he traversed, and does not hesitate to
+express an opinion that within twelve months the whole of it will be taken
+up by settlers. We need not therefore hesitate to conclude, with Sir Henry
+Barkly, that 'the results attained by the expedition are of the very
+highest importance, both to geographical science and to the progress of
+civilization in Australia.'"</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3><a name="APPENDIX_II_p_131" id="APPENDIX_II_p_131"></a>APPENDIX II. (p. 131.)</h3>
+
+<p><i>The following pathetic address, recently transmitted by H.E.
+Sir George Grey to the Duke of Newcastle, H. M. Secretary of
+State for the Colonies, for presentation to Her Majesty under
+her recent bereavement, also attests the deeply poetic vein that
+marks the Maori character.</i></p>
+
+<p>Oh Victoria, our Mother!&mdash;We greet you! You, who are all that now remains
+to recall to our recollection Albert, the Prince Consort, who can never
+again be gazed upon by the people.</p>
+
+<p>We, your Maori children, are now sighing in sorrow together with you, even
+with a sorrow like to yours. All we can now do is to weep together with
+you. Oh, our good mother, who hast nourished us, your ignorant children of
+this island, even to this day!</p>
+
+<p>We have just heard the crash of the huge-headed forest tree which has
+untimely fallen, ere it had attained its full growth of greatness.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, good lady, pray look with favour on our love. Although we may have
+been perverse children, we have ever loved you.</p>
+
+<p>This is our
+lament.<!--519.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_507" id="Page_507">507</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Great is the pain which preys on me for the loss of my beloved.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Ah, you will now lie buried among the other departed kings.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They will leave you with the other departed heroes of the land.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With the dead of the tribes of the multitude of 'Ti Mani.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Go fearless then, O Pango, my beloved, in the path of death; for no evil slanders can follow you.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Oh my very heart! Thou didst shelter me from the sorrows and ills of life.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Oh my pet bird, whose sweet voice welcomed my glad guests!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Oh my noble pet bird, caught in the forests of Rapaura!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Let, then, the body of my beloved be covered with royal purple robes!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Let it be covered with all-rare robes!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The great Rewa, my beloved, shall himself bind these round thee.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And my ear-ring of precious jasper shall be hung in thy ear.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For, oh! my most precious jewel, thou art now lost to me.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Yes, thou, the pillar that didst support my palace, hast been borne to the skies.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Oh, my beloved! you used to stand in the very prow of the war-canoe,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">inciting all others to noble deeds. Yes, in thy life-time thou wast great.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And now thou hast departed to the place where even all the mighty must at last go.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where, O physicians, was the power of your remedies?<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">What, O priests, availed your prayers!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For I have lost my love; no more can he re-visit this world.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+<!--520.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_508" id="Page_508">508</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3><a name="APPENDIX_III_p_172" id="APPENDIX_III_p_172"></a>APPENDIX III. (p. 172.)</h3>
+
+<div class="center smcapac">
+COPY OF OFFICIAL LETTERS OF H.E. COL. SIR T. GORE BROWN,
+GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND TO COMMODORE VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,
+COMMANDER OF THE NOVARA EXPEDITION.
+</div>
+
+<div class="c5">I.</div>
+
+<div class="right"><i>Government House, Auckland, New Zealand, January 4th, 1859.</i></div>
+
+<p>
+Sir,
+</p>
+
+<p>I do myself the honour to express to you the gratification which the visit
+of His Imperial Majesty's frigate <i>Novara</i> has afforded to the inhabitants
+of Auckland and to myself.</p>
+
+<p>I beg also to convey to you and to the officers of the scientific
+department of your Expedition my best thanks for the valuable information
+supplied by the investigations of these gentlemen.</p>
+
+<p>It will be my agreeable duty to report to her Majesty's Government on the
+subject, and I am satisfied that her Majesty will receive the
+communication with pleasure, and will recognize the importance of the
+services rendered to one of her Dependencies.</p>
+
+<p>Wishing you a prosperous voyage, and success in the interesting objects of
+your pursuit, I beg to subscribe myself,</p>
+
+<div class="right">
+Your faithful servant,<br />
+<span class="smcap">Thomas Gore Brown</span>, Col. H.M.S.,<br />
+Governor of New Zealand.
+</div>
+
+<div class="c5">II.</div>
+
+<div class="right"><i>Government House, Auckland, New Zealand, January 5th, 1859.</i></div>
+
+<p>Sir,</p>
+
+<p>Having already endeavoured to express my thanks to yourself and the
+officers of the scientific department of your Expedition for the valuable
+aid afforded to the Colony, I now venture to ask you to confer a still
+greater favour, by giving permission to Dr. Hochstetter to extend his
+researches for a few months longer.</p>
+
+<p>In the event of your granting this permission, the means necessary to
+<!--521.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_509" id="Page_509">509</a></span>enable
+him to explore effectually will be provided at the expense of the
+Colony of New Zealand.</p>
+
+<p>I feel less diffidence in making this request to you, as Representative of
+the Imperial Government, because Dr. Hochstetter's labours in this Colony
+may be made the means of furthering the objects, which his Imperial
+Majesty the Emperor of Austria had in view, when he despatched the
+Expedition under your command.</p>
+
+<p>I beg to add, that, should you feel it compatible with your duty to accede
+to the application I have now the honour to make, every assistance shall
+be afforded to Dr. Hochstetter, whilst engaged in this Colony, to enable
+him to make his scientific researches as valuable as possible to the
+Expedition of which he will remain a member, and care shall be taken to
+facilitate his return to Europe at the expense of this Colony by such
+route as he shall prefer.</p>
+
+<div class="right">
+I have the honour to be, Sir,<br />
+Your most faithful servant,<br />
+<span class="smcap">Thomas Gore Brown</span>, Col. H.M.S.,<br />
+Governor of New Zealand.
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3><a name="APPENDIX_IV_p_172" id="APPENDIX_IV_p_172"></a>APPENDIX IV. (p. 172.)</h3>
+
+<div class="center smcapac">REPLY OF COMMODORE B. V. WULLERSTORF-URBAIR.</div>
+
+<div class="right">
+<i>On Board H.I.R.M. Frigate Novara, Auckland Harbour,<br />
+January 5th, 1859.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p>Sir,</p>
+
+<p>In reply to your official note, dated Government House, Auckland, January
+5th, a. c. in which, as the Representative of the Imperial Government, you
+prefer the request, that I would give Dr. Hochstetter permission to extend
+his geological researches in this Colony for a few months longer, I am
+most happy to accede to your application, and to give Dr. Hochstetter, in
+his capacity as geologist of the Imperial Expedition, leave for that
+purpose, under the following conditions, which are nearly the same as
+those stated in your kind
+note:&mdash;<!--522.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_510" id="Page_510">510</a></span>&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>1. That Dr. Hochstetter's sojourn in New Zealand may not exceed six
+months, and thus enable him to return to Europe nearly at the same period
+as the I.R. frigate is most likely to arrive there, namely, in November or
+December next.</p>
+
+<p>2. That the <i>Novara</i> Expedition, of which Dr. Hochstetter still remains a
+member, may likewise enjoy the benefit of the observations, collections,
+and publications made by Dr. Hochstetter during his stay in New Zealand.</p>
+
+<p>3. That the means necessary to enable Dr. Hochstetter to explore the
+country effectually shall be provided at the expense of the Government of
+New Zealand; that every assistance shall be afforded to this gentleman
+whilst engaged in these geological explorations, and that care shall be
+taken to facilitate his return to Europe (viz. Trieste), at the expense of
+the Government of New Zealand, by such route as he shall prefer.</p>
+
+<p>Upon this understanding I shall not only consider it compatible with my
+duty to accede to your Excellency's application, and give Dr. Hochstetter
+permission to remain for the time stated in the Province of Auckland, but
+shall also feel quite certain, that the Imperial Austrian Government, as
+well as the Academy of Sciences whose delegate Dr. Hochstetter must be
+considered, will be highly gratified to learn that it was in the power of
+the first Austrian Exploring Expedition to become serviceable to a nation
+which has done so much for the advancement of science and the development
+of natural resources in almost all parts of the world.</p>
+
+<p>With hope that the friendly arrangement thus entered into on this subject
+may create a lasting bond of union and communications between the
+scientific men of both countries,</p>
+
+<div class="right">
+I have the honour to subscribe,<br />
+Your faithful servant,<br />
+<span class="smcap">B. V. Wullerstorf.</span>
+</div>
+
+<!--523.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_511" id="Page_511">511</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3><a name="APPENDIX_V_p_188" id="APPENDIX_V_p_188"></a>APPENDIX V. (p. 188.)</h3>
+
+<div class="center smcapac">
+ADDRESS OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND, NEW
+ZEALAND, TO THE GEOLOGIST OF THE NOVARA.
+</div>
+
+<p>
+Dr. Hochstetter,
+</p>
+
+<p>On the conclusion of your Geological Examination of a large and most
+interesting portion of this province of New Zealand, we&mdash;the assembled
+inhabitants of Auckland, representing every section of the community, and
+for the most part intimately connected with the Agriculture and Commerce
+of the province&mdash;desire to express our admiration of the eminently
+scientific manner and unwearied activity with which you have conducted
+your researches into the Geological Formations and Mineral Resources of
+Auckland. We have also to thank you for the valuable information upon
+these objects, which you have already placed in our possession in the
+public lecture delivered by you in this hall on the 24th of June, and in
+the reports you have forwarded to the General and Provincial Governments.</p>
+
+<p>The report of a member of the <i>Novara</i> Expedition, on the physical
+characteristics of this portion of New Zealand&mdash;of which so little has
+hitherto been known&mdash;will be acknowledged in Europe as both impartial and
+authentic.</p>
+
+<p>To us, as a community, the information contained in that report and the
+maps you have constructed, together with those additional details we hope
+to receive from you after your return to Europe, will be of essential
+service in a material point of view. We also desire to convey to you our
+sense of the impartiality of your reports, which, whilst they lay open to
+our view those resources of the country that will eventually aid to its
+wealth and its general prosperity, in no way exaggerate their value or
+tend to lead to extravagant ideas or speculations that might only result
+in disappointment.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving in Auckland a stranger, upon whose sympathies we had no claim,
+you have exerted all your energies to condense the results of your
+scientific exploration into practical forms, for the benefit of the people
+<!--524.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_512" id="Page_512">512</a></span>of
+the foreign country you visited for purely scientific purposes, or for
+the special advantage of your own country.</p>
+
+<p>On all these accounts we feel that our warmest thanks are due to you for
+your disinterested exertions for the promotion of our welfare. As an
+enduring testimony thereof, we request the acceptance of this purse, the
+contents of which we beg you will devote to the purchase of some piece of
+plate that we trust may be regarded by your family and your countrymen,
+not only as a tribute of respect to your varied talents, but as a
+well-merited memento of the grateful acknowledgment by the people of the
+province of Auckland of the eminent scientific and practical services
+rendered to them by you.</p>
+
+<p>We are desirous that the plate should bear the following inscription:</p>
+
+<p>"Presented to Dr. Hochstetter, Geologist attached to the Imperial Royal
+Austrian Scientific Expedition in the frigate <i>Novara</i>, by the inhabitants
+of the Province of Auckland, New Zealand, in testimony of the eminent
+services rendered to them by his researches into the Mineral and
+Agricultural resources of the Province."</p>
+
+<p>Signed on behalf of the subscribers,</p>
+
+<div class="center"><span class="smcap">R. Mould</span>,<br />
+Colonel, commanding Royal Engineers,<br />
+Chairman of Committee.<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">John Williamson</span>,<br />
+Superintendent,<br />
+Province of Auckland.</div>
+
+<div class="right"><i>Auckland, 24th July, 1857.</i>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3><a name="APPENDIX_VI_p_193" id="APPENDIX_VI_p_193"></a>APPENDIX VI. (p. 193.)</h3>
+
+<div class="center smcapac">
+ADDRESS OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE CITY AND PROVINCE OF NELSON TO
+THE GEOLOGIST OF THE NOVARA.
+</div>
+
+<p>
+Dr. Hochstetter,
+</p>
+
+<p>Before your departure from among us, we, the inhabitants of the Province
+and City of Nelson, beg to express to you our great obligations for the
+benefits which you have conferred upon us as a community.</p>
+
+<p>Though we cannot but congratulate you upon your approaching return to your
+country and your family, we have strong personal reasons
+<!--525.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_513" id="Page_513">513</a></span>for
+looking upon
+it with regret. We feel that it has been no light or trifling advantage to
+have had among us one of that small class of men who conduct the great
+national expeditions by which the benefits of science are distributed over
+the world.</p>
+
+<p>We know that such an one comes invested with the highest possible
+authority to speak decidedly on the subjects of his investigations, and
+are sure that we may place the most implicit confidence in his statements.
+It is the great characteristic of such scientific pursuits as you are
+engaged in, that though on the one hand they are joined to the deepest and
+inmost principles of nature, on the other they are linked to the daily
+wants and commonest necessities of life. We believe therefore that your
+visit here will not be barren of practical results. We believe that it
+will give us both a desire to develope, as far as possible, our share of
+the gifts of nature, and a knowledge how we may best do this.</p>
+
+<p>We know that we have had no special claims on you for the interest you
+have taken in our welfare. The advantages which we have derived from it
+are, however, of such a kind that both those who give and those who
+receive may be proud of. We have had many opportunities of noticing how
+earnestly you pursue knowledge for its own sake, and are glad to find that
+those who do so are the most ready to employ for the benefit of others
+what they have acquired themselves. You have done this in our case with
+considerable personal exertion and discomfort, which have been cheerfully
+encountered by your diligence and activity.</p>
+
+<p>We do not wish to do more than allude to considerations of a personal
+kind. But we must express our appreciation of your courteous and kind
+behaviour towards us, and assure you that few men could have been among us
+for so short a time and have acquired so much of the character of a
+personal friend.</p>
+
+<p>We beg your acceptance of the accompanying Testimonial, the product of our
+Gold-fields, and we ask you to apply it to the purchase of a piece of
+plate, which may help to keep us in your remembrance, and on which we ask
+you to place the following inscription:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Presented to Dr. Ferdinand Hochstetter, Geologist to the Imperial Royal
+Austrian Scientific Expedition in the frigate <i>Novara</i>, by the inhabitants
+of the Province of Nelson, New Zealand, as a record of their appreciation
+of the great benefits conferred upon them and the Colony
+<!--526.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_514" id="Page_514">514</a></span>by
+his frank
+communication of the results of his zealous and able researches into the
+geological character and mineral resources of the Province."</p>
+
+<p>We earnestly hope that all good may go with you on your return to Europe,
+and that after a pleasant and speedy voyage you may reach in safety your
+home and friends. And with this wish we bid you heartily "Farewell."</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+Signed on behalf of the inhabitants of Nelson:</div>
+
+<div class="right"><span class="smcap">J. P. Robinson</span>,
+Superintendent of the Province of Nelson,
+New Zealand.
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3><a name="APPENDIX_VII" id="APPENDIX_VII"></a>APPENDIX VII.</h3>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">New Granada</span> has now taken the title of the United States of Colombia, as
+appears from the following document translated from the Spanish circular
+to the Diplomatic Officials and Consuls of the United States of Colombia.</p>
+
+<div class="center">Secretary of State and Foreign Affairs.</div>
+
+<p>Sir,&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>In order that you may be exactly acquainted with the situation of the
+country, the undersigned Secretary of State, proposes to inform you every
+fortnight of the progress of the nation, setting forth fully and frankly
+all that has been done, neither misrepresenting nor omitting anything
+which, whether favourable or adverse to the new order of things in
+Colombia, may be worthy of your notice.</p>
+
+<p>You are not ignorant that since July 18, 1861, when the Federal Government
+came into power in Bogota, the States of Cauca, Antioquia, Santander, and
+Tolima have continued in the hands of the Centralists. You are not
+ignorant that the decrees of "Tincion and Desamortizacion" of effects in
+mortmain, put forth during the days which followed the 18th of July,
+provoked the most violent discontent on the part of the ultramontane
+clergy; and that these clergy, exchanging piety for gain,
+<!--527.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_515" id="Page_515">515</a></span>and
+setting
+aside all the Christian precepts of charity, renunciation of worldly
+goods, moderation, and submission to the powers that be, placed themselves
+in open rebellion, and endeavoured by every possible means to subvert the
+peace. Thus Romanism succeeded in raising in Santander an army of 3000
+men, in Tolima another of 1000, and in Boyacá and Cundinamarca several
+armed companies, one of which (that of Guasca) numbered upwards of 1000
+soldiers. The Government did not, nevertheless, concern itself much about
+this, because on its side were reason, opinion, and strength. Now, I am
+glad to tell you, that out of the nine States of the Colombian Union,
+seven enjoy an order and tranquillity as absolute as unchangeable. The
+heroic State of Santander, so maltreated by the Centralists during four
+years, does not contain on its soil one armed enemy, and its Government,
+diligent and efficient in peace as in war, is directing its attention to
+the re-establishment of commerce and the good exercise of its
+administration. The faction of Tolima, after having committed incalculable
+depredations and excesses, has been completely subdued. The parties
+fomented in Boyacá and Cundinamarca have been broken up; the only one
+which has hitherto been able to maintain a footing, although considerably
+diminished, that of Guasca, has been overcome during the last few days,
+its chief having been killed in battle. The only disturbed States are
+therefore now those of Cauca and Antioquia. Thus, then, considering that
+the seven States in which order and peace reign, Panama, Bolivar,
+Magdalena, Santander, Boyacá, Cundinamarca, and Tolima, are on the coast,
+in the north and centre; that is to say, the most important ones in a
+commercial, financial, and military point of view, because in them are
+principally found the ports through which our foreign commerce is carried
+on, the rich custom-houses, the salt mines, the navigable rivers, the most
+valuable riches, the most abundant agricultural produce, the sources of
+our exports, the great mass of the population, and the greatest amount of
+the national strength; it may very reasonably be concluded that Colombian
+order rests upon firm bases,&mdash;and considering, further, that in the two
+States still unquiet, the disturbers are reduced to very narrow limits,
+having no port through which to introduce the elements of war, no funds at
+their disposal to increase or maintain their present force;&mdash;that public
+opinion is generally against them, seeking all means
+<!--528.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_516" id="Page_516">516</a></span>of
+showing them
+hostility, of diminishing their army, and of closing to them all
+resources;&mdash;that they are closely threatened by a numerous, trained,
+enthusiastic army, in perfect discipline, and well supplied with
+provisions and ammunition;&mdash;that this army, part of which occupies the
+south of the valley of Cauca, another part the Andes of Quindio, and the
+other preparing at Mompos to penetrate, if necessary, into Antioquia,
+commanded by experienced generals, under the immediate direction of the
+President of the Union;&mdash;and lastly, that the insurgent troops will amount
+at most but to a third part of those sent against them by the Government;
+that they are in want both of provisions and arms, as also of able
+generals:&mdash;when all this is considered, I say, it must be concluded that
+ere long peace will be re-established in these two States as it has
+already been in the rest of Colombia. It is not without regret that the
+President is about to undertake military operations against the two
+disturbed States, for his most earnest desire has been to establish
+tranquillity by means of conciliation, without fighting. The conduct
+observed by him since the commencement of the civil war has been in
+keeping with this desire. Only to mention recent events, hardly was Bogota
+occupied in 1861, ere he addressed himself with this object in the most
+conciliating terms to the Governments of the insurgent States. That of
+Antioquia had not even the courtesy to answer him. A new and even more
+advantageous offer of peace, on the occasion of convoking the National
+Convention, has been made, proving the patriotic feeling of the President
+and the obduracy of the Centralists ruling in Antioquia. And it must be
+remembered that the leniency of the Government of the Union is so much the
+more praiseworthy, as it has been the Government of Antioquia which has
+brought upon Cauca the calamity which has now prostrated it. In fact,
+peace and law would have obtained there many months ago, but for a cruel
+faction supported and reinforced by the Antioquian Government, who renewed
+it when it was failing, supplied it with money and munitions, assisted it
+with military forces, and maintained anarchy and, not alarm, but terror,
+in the State of Cauca. But notwithstanding these weighty motives for
+inducing the Government of the Union to send its army against the State of
+Antioquia, yet with great magnanimity it has declared that it will only do
+so in the event of the Government of Antioquia
+<!--529.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_517" id="Page_517">517</a></span>not
+having agreed to
+submit to the Union by the 6th of August next, the day on which the
+national convention is to assemble at Cartajena. It is not indeed possible
+that this State should be allowed to remain separate from the Union,
+against the will of the Antioquian people, who do not join in the views of
+those now ruling them, nor is it to be endured that they should carry on
+against the other States and the Government of the Union a useless war,
+for no defined political object. The States that have not yet chosen their
+deputies for the Convention are now engaged in electing them. For the
+rest, although it may well be thought that after such a war as that
+through which we have passed the re-establishment of order and harmony in
+the different branches of public administration, as well in the States as
+in the Union, must be a long and anxious task, yet fortunately quite the
+contrary has taken place. Immediately after the battles in which the
+Federalists were successful society began to enjoy well-regulated civil
+and judicial administration, and consequently confidence, commerce,
+labour, social life, and striving for peace, were renewed with vigour. Our
+people is as much the friend of order and justice as of liberty and
+independence. To obey willingly it only desires from its governors
+honesty, activity, loyalty to institutions, patriotism, and respect for
+the ever moderate wishes of the country. The nation hates civil war, not
+alone from reason, but from instinct; it has not spontaneously sought the
+sad experience it has had of this terrible calamity; our strifes have not
+come from below; the incendiary torch fell from the seat of the chief
+Government. At least this is what has happened during the years just past.
+But this longing for durable peace, this dearly-bought experience, and
+this horror of civil war, joined to a moderate and firm love of liberty
+and a decided spirit of progress, will produce without doubt a
+constitution liberal, just, foreseeing, and clear, and for the future will
+excite the attention of the people to the election of their high
+officials. The President of the Union is in the country; his head-quarters
+are in no fixed place; until now he has been first in Piedras and then in
+Ambalema. A general secretary accompanies the President, for the despatch
+of administrative matters of a serious nature, or connected with the war,
+so that there may be no branch of government neglected, nor any subject of
+public interest which shall not be attended to as in ordinary times. This
+city, made
+<!--530.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_518" id="Page_518">518</a></span>nearly
+a year ago into a Federal district, has a governor and
+a sufficient number of alcaldes and other subalterns to maintain order and
+police. Besides the army which is moving upon Antioquia and Cauca, there
+has been raised and organized another of reserve, as strong as the former,
+and divided into three parts, which garrison the States of Santander,
+Boyacá, and Cundinamarca. The national engagements in matters of credit
+have engaged the attention of the Government in the most especial manner.
+No outlay, not even to satisfy the necessities of existence, does it
+prefer to fulfilling its obligations with foreign creditors. Also are
+religiously cancelled the obligations in favour of foreigners given by the
+disloyal Government of the extinct Granadine Confederation, for the sums
+taken to make war upon the States which have supported Federal
+institutions. Property belonging to foreigners is more efficiently
+protected than it appears ever to have been before. In fact, all that has
+relation to the faithful observance of public treaties, to the persons,
+properties, and rights of citizens, or subjects of other nations, is a
+subject of special solicitude to the Colombian Government, it being well
+persuaded that the civilization as well as the good of the country demand
+a faithful fulfilment of its foreign engagements, in order to raise the
+national credit, and to aggrandize, by the increase of knowledge, of
+wealth, and population, the modest country in which our lot has been cast.
+To conclude, a solid and general peace is approaching with quick steps,
+and I believe that I shall be able to announce it to you definitely,
+together with the notice of the commencement of the operation of the
+national Convention, within two months. Some material improvements have
+been undertaken; but the favourable moment of entire peace has not yet
+arrived to carry out all that the Government intends and desires to
+accomplish. In the "Rejistro Oficial" you will find all that has been done
+in these branches, and in favour of European immigration and the
+colonization of our waste lands.</p>
+
+<div class="right"><span class="smcap">Manuel Ancisar.</span></div>
+
+<p><i>Bogota, June 5, 1862.</i></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_158_158" id="Footnote_158_158"></a><a href="#FNanchor_158_158"><span class="label">[158]</span></a> The orthography of the above vocabulary is founded upon the
+ordinary rules for English pronunciation. The syllable on which the chief
+stress is laid is marked when necessary by an accent.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_159_159" id="Footnote_159_159"></a><a href="#FNanchor_159_159"><span class="label">[159]</span></a> <i>Robert O'Hara Burke, and the Australian Exploring
+Expedition of 1860.</i> By Andrew Jackson. London: Smith, Elder, and
+Co.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--531.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_519" id="Page_519">519</a></span>
+
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2>
+
+<ul style="list-style-type: none; text-align: left; text-indent: -4em; margin-left: 4em;">
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">A</li>
+
+<li>Abáca, Manila Hemp, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_321">321</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_324">324</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Acacia Catechu</i> (Terra Japonica), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Adam's Peak, Ceylon, ascent of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_406">406</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_418">418</a></li>
+
+<li>Adams, William, one of the mutineers of the <i>Bounty</i>, iii. <a href="#Page_261">261</a>-<a href="#Page_263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Address of the German Residents in Sydney to the commander of the Expedition, iii. <a href="#Page_53">53</a> (and Appendix)</li>
+
+<li>Adiga River near Madras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_457">457</a></li>
+
+<li>Agraharam, Imperial present to the Brahmins, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_459">459</a></li>
+
+<li>Agriculture, School of (<i>Quinta Normal</i>), at Santiago de Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Aichison, Mr., Missionary at Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li>Alameda, the new, at Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_396">396</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; the public promenade at Santiago de Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_296">296</a></li>
+
+<li>Albatross, the, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Alboran, Island of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Algeziras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_40">40</a></li>
+
+<li>Algoa Bay, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>Alpaca, the, successful attempts to introduce into Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_64">64</a>-<a href="#Page_66">66</a>;
+  value in Peru and Bolivia, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Alwis, James de, his proficiency in Cingalese dialects, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_396">396</a></li>
+
+<li>Amancaes, Valley of, near Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_396">396</a></li>
+
+<li>Amaral, Dom Joâo Maria Ferreira do, Governor of Macao, assassination of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_403">403</a></li>
+
+<li>American Missionary Society, its activity in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_460">460</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_465">465</a></li>
+
+<li>Amphitheatre, Roman, at Pola, iii. <a href="#Page_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li>Amsterdam, Island of, in Indian Ocean, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_323">323</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_335">335</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Ananassa Sativa</i>, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Aneroid Barometers, their usefulness under certain conditions, iii. <a href="#Page_328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Angas, Geo. Fred., Esq., secretary of the Australian Museum, Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Anthropometry, how practised, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_127">127</a>;
+  iii. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>-<a href="#Page_126">126</a></li>
+
+<li>Ant Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_588">588</a></li>
+
+<li>Apothecary's store in Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_437">437</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_440">440</a></li>
+
+<li>Appin, village of, near Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Aquasie Boachie, son of an African chief resident in Java, his history, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_206">206</a></li>
+
+<li>Arcot, city of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_452">452</a></li>
+
+<li>Areca palm, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Arequipa (Peru), iii. <a href="#Page_350">350</a></li>
+
+<li>Arewarewa, a skin disease common in the Society Islands, iii. <a href="#Page_247">247</a>
+<!--532.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_520" id="Page_520">520</a></span></li>
+<li>Arica (harbour and village), iii. <a href="#Page_345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>Armegon, first British settlement on the Coromandel coast, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_428">428</a></li>
+
+<li>Arréois, the, a secret society formerly existing at Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Arrival in Trieste, iii. <a href="#Page_455">455</a></li>
+
+<li>Artillery barrack at Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Ash Island (New South Wales), iii. <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Aspinwall (Isthmus of Panama), description of, iii. <a href="#Page_438">438</a></li>
+
+<li>Assacú tree, the (<i>Hura Brasiliensis</i>), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Atmospheric currents, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Atolls, appearance of and how accounted for, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_588">588</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_626">626</a></li>
+
+<li>Auckland, harbour and city, described, iii. <a href="#Page_96">96</a>-<a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Augustinian (or Barefoot) monks, convent at Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Australia, German emigrants in, iii. <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>-<a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Australian club in Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; farm, description of an, iii. <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Australische Zeitung, the German newspaper in Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Avatars, the, or descents of Vishnu, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_436">436</a></li>
+
+<li>Ave Maria in Manila, the, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_347">347</a></li>
+
+<li>Azores, Island of, iii. <a href="#Page_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Azoteas, or terraced roofs of Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_366">366</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">B</li>
+
+<li>Baines, Admiral, Commander-in-chief of H.M. Pacific squadron, iii. <a href="#Page_323">323</a>, <a href="#Page_418">418</a></li>
+
+<li>Baker, W., Esq., Government interpreter at Auckland, iii. <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Balgonie Farm, near Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Ball on board the <i>Novara</i> in honour of the birth of an heir to the throne of Austria, iii. <a href="#Page_52">52</a>-<a href="#Page_54">54</a>;
+  ball given by the Austrian Consul at Valparaiso in honour of the Expedition, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Balsas, or rafts used along the west coast of South America, description of, iii. <a href="#Page_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Bamboo paper (China), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_516">516</a></li>
+
+<li>Bampoka, island of (Nicobar Group), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Bampton reef, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_626">626</a></li>
+
+<li>Bandong, city in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Banyan tree, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li>Bargo, forest huts at, near Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_40">40</a>;
+  curious library in one of the houses at, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Barometer, its lowest reading during the Typhoon in the China seas, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_545">545</a></li>
+
+<li>Barrier Island, iii. <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Basle Missionary Association in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Basses or Baxos near Galle, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_418">418</a></li>
+
+<li>Batavia, description of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_180">180</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_190">190</a></li>
+
+<li>Batte-Malve, Island of, one of the Nicobar Group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Bay-Lake (Manila), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li>Bell-bird of Australia, the, iii. <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Bennett, Dr. George, Zoologist of Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Beri-Beri, a Javanese malady, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Bernstein, Dr., physician and naturalist, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_211">211</a>
+<!--533.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_521" id="Page_521">521</a></span></li>
+<li>Betel-nut and fibre, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Biche de Mar, or sea slug. <i>See</i> Trepang.</li>
+
+<li>Big Island.  <i>See</i> Sikayana.</li>
+
+<li>Binondo, suburb of Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_290">290</a></li>
+
+<li>Birloche, the, a two-wheeled vehicle in use in Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_294">294</a></li>
+
+<li>Bleeker, Dr., Ichthyologist in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Bligh, Capt., commander of the <i>Bounty</i>, iii. <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;
+  his fate, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>;
+  becomes Governor of the penal colony of Botany Bay, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Blodgett, Rev. Mr., Missionary at Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Boehmeria nivea</i>, the Ramé-fibre, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_321">321</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_324">324</a></li>
+
+<li>Bohea mountains of China, the, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_506">506</a></li>
+
+<li>Bo-tree, the (<i>Ficus religiosa</i>), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li>Bolts, William, his attempt to colonize the Nicobars for Austria, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_6">6</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Book-printing introduced into Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Boomerang, known to the ancient Egyptians, iii. <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Borax, or Tincal, trade in, along the Peruvian coast, iii. <a href="#Page_344">344</a></li>
+
+<li>Botanical garden of Rio, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_143">143</a>;
+  of Cape Town, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_205">205</a>;
+  of Buitenzorg (Java), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_205">205</a>;
+  of Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Botanical riches of the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_101">101</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_103">103</a>;
+  of Java, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_204">204</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_206">206</a>;
+  of Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_19">19</a>-<a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Botany Bay, account of, iii. <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Botany Tower, in Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Bounty</i>, abridged account of mutiny of the, and subsequent fate of the mutineers and their descendants, iii. <a href="#Page_261">261</a>-<a href="#Page_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Brahmaism, its tenets, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_435">435</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_437">437</a></li>
+
+<li>Brand Vley, hot-springs of (Cape Colony), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_225">225</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_229">229</a></li>
+
+<li>Brauns, William, Consul-general of Hamburg, at Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_364">364</a></li>
+
+<li>Brazil, importance of, as a field for German emigration, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_171">171</a></li>
+
+<li>Bread-fruit tree found in the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_101">101</a>; in Puynipet, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_558">558</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_567">567</a>;
+  in Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>"Brickfielder," unpleasant sensations in a, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>. 52</li>
+
+<li>Bridgman, Dr., Missionary and Sinologue, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Bromelia ananas</i>. <i>See</i> <i>Ananassa sativa</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Brooke's deep-sea lead, mode of using and results, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Brotherhood of the Heaven and Earth (secret society of the Chinese of Singapore), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Broughton's Pass in New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Browne, Col. T. Gore, Governor of New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Buddha, tooth of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_405">405</a></li>
+
+<li>Buddhism, tenets and history of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_352">352</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_358">358</a></li>
+
+<li>Buitenzorg (Java), excursion to, ii, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_203">203</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_208">208</a></li>
+
+<li>Bukit Timah, the, or mountain of tin at Singapore, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>"Bullock-bandy," Cingalese native conveyance, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_417">417</a></li>
+
+<li>Bungalow, description of one at Vellore,  i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_452">452</a>
+<!--534.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_522" id="Page_522">522</a></span></li>
+<li>"Burster," violence of, at New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li>
+
+<li>Bush, the, of Australia, described, iii. <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Bushmen, or Bosjesmen, the, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Bush-rangers, depredations of the, iii. <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">C</li>
+
+<li>Cabo Tormentoso, Storm Cape, now Cape of Good Hope, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_192">192</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Caffres, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Cajamarquilla, ruins of, visited, iii. <a href="#Page_385">385</a>-<a href="#Page_388">388</a></li>
+
+<li>Caldera, Chile, its appearance, iii. <a href="#Page_340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Caledon, village of Cape Colony, visit to, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Callao, port of Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>Caltura, Ceylon, curious rencontre at, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_369">369</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_397">397</a></li>
+
+<li>Calzada, the, or public promenade of Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_310">310</a></li>
+
+<li>Camden Park, Sydney, visit to, iii. <a href="#Page_20">20</a>-<a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Camoens, grotto of, at Macao, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_394">394</a></li>
+
+<li>Camote, the, or sweet potato, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Campamiento (Gibraltar), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Campbell, Mr., of Tacna (Peru), curious statistics furnished by him of the stimulating properties of coca leaves, iii. <a href="#Page_404">404</a></li>
+
+<li>Campbelton, New South Wales, excursion to, iii. <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Campo Santo, or cemetery of Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_289">289</a></li>
+
+<li>Canalization, extent to which carried in China, ii, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_479">479</a></li>
+
+<li>Cannibalism in Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;
+  in New Zealand, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Canoes of the natives of Puynipet described, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_552">552</a></li>
+
+<li>Canton-English, peculiarities of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_351">351</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_364">364</a></li>
+
+<li>Canton River, ascent of the, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_381">381</a></li>
+
+<li>Canton, visit to, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_380">380</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_386">386</a></li>
+
+<li>Cape Brett, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Cape Horn, rounding of, iii. <a href="#Page_325">325</a>-<a href="#Page_328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Cape Pigeon, habits of the, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_157">157</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_190">190</a></li>
+
+<li>Cape San Augustin, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_118">118</a></li>
+
+<li>Carabus or Calaboose, the prison at Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Caret, Catholic missionary, his pertinacity at Tahiti, and its results, iii. <a href="#Page_204">204</a>-<a href="#Page_206">206</a></li>
+
+<li>Carlowitz, M. von, Prussian Consul at Macao, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_394">394</a></li>
+
+<li>Carretas, or ox-carriages of Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_296">296</a></li>
+
+<li>Carron, Kennedy's companion in the explorations made by the latter in Northern Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Carteret Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_595">595</a></li>
+
+<li>Carthagena, port of, in New Granada, iii. <a href="#Page_440">440</a></li>
+
+<li>Casa Blanca, one of the oldest settlements in Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_294">294</a></li>
+
+<li>Cash, common copper currency of China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Castilla, Don Ramon de, president of Chile, interview with, iii. <a href="#Page_303">303</a>-<a href="#Page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Cathedral of Tong-Kadu near Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_445">445</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_478">478</a>; of Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_369">369</a></li>
+
+<li>Cavite, the outport of Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_280">280</a>
+<!--535.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_523" id="Page_523">523</a></span></li>
+<li>Cayenne, French penal colony in, revelations concerning, iii. <a href="#Page_252">252</a></li>
+
+<li>Center, A. J., Esq., Director of the Isthmus of Panama railroad, his kindness, iii. <a href="#Page_438">438</a></li>
+
+<li>Central Normal School of Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_378">378</a></li>
+
+<li>Cerro Alegre, Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li>Cerro de Canetas, near Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>Ceuta, Spanish fort of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Chagres, fever ravages of, iii. <a href="#Page_439">439</a></li>
+
+<li>Chala (Peru), harbour of, iii. <a href="#Page_353">353</a></li>
+
+<li>Chatham Island, iii. <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Cheyne, Capt. Andrew, his charts of the West Pacific, remarks on Puynipet, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_554">554</a>;
+  remarks on Simpson Island, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_585">585</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_588">588</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_592">592</a>;
+  geographical information respecting Bradley Reef, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_594">594</a>;
+  remarks on the population of Sikayana, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_613">613</a></li>
+
+<li>Chicha, the, a Chilian drink, iii. <a href="#Page_316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Chile, state of parties in, iii. <a href="#Page_305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>China Tree, cultivation of, in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_227">227</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_233">233</a>;
+  in Bolivia and Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_413">413</a>-<a href="#Page_417">417</a>;
+  points requiring to be elucidated, <a href="#Page_409">409</a>-<a href="#Page_412">412</a></li>
+
+<li>Chincha Islands, deposits of Guano on, iii. <a href="#Page_355">355</a>-<a href="#Page_362">362</a>; life upon the, <a href="#Page_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li>Chinese banquet, description of a, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_485">485</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_493">493</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Council Chamber, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_427">427</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; dramatic representations, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_486">486</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; eating-houses, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_429">429</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; language and mode of writing, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_365">365</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; reckoning board, and how it is used, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; soothsayers, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_362">362</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; tea-garden, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_430">430</a></li>
+
+<li>Cholera at Madeira, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_85">85</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_88">88</a>;
+  at Rio, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_152">152</a>;
+  at Singapore, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_151">151</a>;
+  in China, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li>Chorillos, sea-side watering-place of the Limanos, iii. <a href="#Page_389">389</a>-<a href="#Page_391">391</a></li>
+
+<li>Chronometers, their accuracy fully established, iii. <a href="#Page_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Church processions in Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_345">345</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_347">347</a></li>
+
+<li>Cigar manufactory at Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_317">317</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Cinchona, or Peruvian Bark. <i>See</i> Fever-Bark.</li>
+
+<li>Cingalese canoe, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_417">417</a></li>
+
+<li>Cinnamon, cultivation of, in Ceylon, statistics of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_373">373</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_377">377</a></li>
+
+<li>Clarence River, in Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;
+  Stearine Candle Manufactory at, iii. <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Clarke, W. B., geologist, iii. <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash;, Rev. H. F., virtually the first discoverer of Gold in Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li>Club, Australian, hospitalities of the, iii. <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>"Coachman's Whip," the (a bird peculiar to Australia), iii. <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Cobija, Bolivia, harbour and prospects of, iii. <a href="#Page_342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Cobra di Capello, found in Ceylon occasionally, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_363">363</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_401">401</a></li>
+
+<li>Coca (or <i>Erythroxylon Coca</i>) of Peru, its remarkable properties, iii. <a href="#Page_402">402</a>-<a href="#Page_406">406</a>;
+<!--536.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_524" id="Page_524">524</a></span></li>
+<li> chemical analysis of its leaves at Göttingen, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>-<a href="#Page_409">409</a></li>
+
+<li>Cocain, the organic base of the Coca leaves, discovered at Göttingen, iii. <a href="#Page_407">407</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Coccus Pela</i>, the tree-wax insect of China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_518">518</a></li>
+
+<li>Cochineal, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_82">82</a>; plantations of, at Pondok Gedeh (Java), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Cockatoo Island, Port Jackson, iii. <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Cock-fighting in Manila, prevalence of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_312">312</a></li>
+
+<li>Cocoa-nut and palm, iii. <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Coffee-culture in Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_377">377</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_379">379</a>;
+  in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_242">242</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Coggerah Bay, New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Colic, the dry or vegetal form of (Tahiti), iii. <a href="#Page_260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Colonization of the Nicobar Archipelago, attempts at, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_1">1</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_128">128</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash;, French principles of, compared with those of England, iii. <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a></li>
+
+<li>Comet of 1858, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_594">594</a></li>
+
+<li>Comprador, a Chinese, described, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_360">360</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_362">362</a></li>
+
+<li>Concordia, military association of (Batavia), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Confucius, temple of, at Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_433">433</a></li>
+
+<li>Constantia wine, statistics of manufacture of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_255">255</a></li>
+
+<li>Convict question considered, iii. <a href="#Page_72">72</a>-<a href="#Page_90">90</a>;
+  settlement at Singapore, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_164">164</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Cook-river Bay, New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Cook's Straits, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Coolie trade, its dimensions at Macao, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_397">397</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_401">401</a></li>
+
+<li>Cooper, Sir Daniel, his country-seat, and hospitable reception by, iii. <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Copiapó, Chile, copper and silver mines of, iii. <a href="#Page_341">341</a>, <a href="#Page_342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Coquimbo, port of, iii. <a href="#Page_340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Coral reef of Puynipet, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_556">556</a></li>
+
+<li>Corregidor Island, Manila Bay, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Coróborry, dance of the Australian aborigines, described, iii. <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Cowries, mussel shells, used as currency, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_394">394</a></li>
+
+<li>Crocodiles in Madras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_449">449</a>; in Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Cruera Patuóni, a New Zealand chief, his address to the members of the Expedition, iii. <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Cuba, statistics of tobacco culture in, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Culture system adopted in Java, features of the, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_244">244</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_246">246</a></li>
+
+<li>Curacavi, village in Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_295">295</a></li>
+
+<li>Curaré, the Indian poison, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Curcuma longa</i>, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_562">562</a></li>
+
+<li>Curry, its constituents, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Cuzent, Dr. G., valuable work on Tahiti by, iii. <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Cyclones, or hurricanes, speculations as to origin of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_183">183</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_185">185</a>, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_547">547</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_549">549</a>;
+  description of one, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_538">538</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_547">547</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">D</li>
+
+<li>Dagga, Tascha or Takka, used by the Hottentots as a masticatory, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_241">241</a>
+<!--537.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_525" id="Page_525">525</a></span></li>
+<li>Dahata Wahansa (the Holy Tooth), Ceylon. <i>See</i> Buddha's Tooth.</li>
+
+<li>Dammara pine. <i>See</i> Kauri pine.</li>
+
+<li>Damper, unleavened bread used in the Australian Bush, iii. <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Dana, his researches in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Dances of savage races&mdash;Caffres, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_209">209</a>; Javanese, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_260">260</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_264">264</a>;
+  inhabitants of Puynipet Island, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_583">583</a>;
+  Australians, iii. <a href="#Page_34">34</a>; New Zealanders, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>;
+  Tahitians, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>;
+  natives of New Caledonia, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+
+<li>Davis, John, an English sailor, abandoned on the island of Sikayana, his account of the natives, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_608">608</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_610">610</a></li>
+
+<li>Denison, Sir William, his reception, iii. <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>;
+  his work on convict discipline, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;
+  hospitable reception by, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;
+  opens Parliament of New South Wales, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Diadem, the, a mountain peak of Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li>Dictionary, Maori, iii. <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Dieffenbach, his geological researches in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Divers (pearl-) of Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_382">382</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_384">384</a></li>
+
+<li>Dkinawasima, island of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_547">547</a></li>
+
+<li>Domeyko, Professor Ignacio, of Santiago, iii. <a href="#Page_303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Dominican Monks of Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Dragon tree of Madeira, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_59">59</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Drury, district of in New Zealand, visit to, iii. <a href="#Page_155">155</a>; its coal-fields, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>-<a href="#Page_172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Dubash (an Indian factotum), his functions, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_425">425</a></li>
+
+<li>Duck-hunting in Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_329">329</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_339">339</a></li>
+
+<li>Du Petit-Thouars, captain of French frigate <i>Venus</i>, his oppression in Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">E</li>
+
+<li>Earthquakes in Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_362">362</a></li>
+
+<li>Edible swallows' nests, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_235">235</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Eimeo, one of the Society Islands, iii. <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Elephantiasis græcorum</i>, its ravages in Brazil, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_135">135</a>;
+  singular mode of treatment for, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Elephants in Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_410">410</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_411">411</a></li>
+
+<li>Emigration of Chinese, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_397">397</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_400">400</a></li>
+
+<li>Emu, the, description of, iii. <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Encouragement of learning in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>English colonies, their influence on the mother country, iii. <a href="#Page_1">1</a>-<a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
+
+<li>Evans, Lieut., U.S.A., director of the Chilean railway, iii. <a href="#Page_308">308</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash;, F., his chart of magnetic declinations, iii. <a href="#Page_257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Expedition, Kennedy's, for traversing the continent of Australia, tragical fate of, iii. <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash;, table of, throughout the voyage, i. Appendix</li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">F</li>
+
+<li>Faáa, village of Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_223">223</a>; fête there, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>-<a href="#Page_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Falkland Islands, passed on voyage home, iii. <a href="#Page_329">329</a>-<a href="#Page_330">330</a>
+<!--538.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_526" id="Page_526">526</a></span></li>
+<li>Falmouth Harbour, arrival of author at, iii. <a href="#Page_446">446</a></li>
+
+<li>Faóle, one of the groups of Stuart's Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_604">604</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_607">607</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_609">609</a></li>
+
+<li>Fare-rupe (<i>Pteris esculentum</i>) of Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Fata Morgana, appearance of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Fauna of Island of St. Paul, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li>Fautáua, a hill-fort in Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_227">227</a>;
+  waterfall of, iii. <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Feejee Islands, iii. <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Feet, artificial compression of women's, in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_372">372</a></li>
+
+<li>Féi, or wild plantain, Tahiti, iii, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Fenton, F. D., his work on the origin of the Maori population of New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_138">138</a>-<a href="#Page_140">140</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferdinand Maximilian, Archduke, visits the <i>Novara</i>, iii. <a href="#Page_452">452</a>-<a href="#Page_455">455</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferguson, Sir James, Governor of Gibraltar, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_28">28</a>, iii. <a href="#Page_450">450</a></li>
+
+<li>Fernando de Noronha, island of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_117">117</a></li>
+
+<li>Fever-Bark, or Cinchona. <i>See</i> China tree.</li>
+
+<li>"Fiestas Reales," Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Fire, alarm of, on board, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_420">420</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_422">422</a></li>
+
+<li>Fire companies in Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li>"Fire of the Gods," name of a New Zealand weapon, iii. <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Fire on Island of Amsterdam, accidental, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_332">332</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Ficus Indica</i>. <i>See</i> Banyan tree.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <i>Religiosa</i>. <i>See</i> Bo-tree.</li>
+
+<li>Fish, species of, at St. Paul Island, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Fitzroy Dry Dock, Cockatoo Island, Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Flata limbata</i>, or wax insect of China. See <i>Coccus pelah</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Flemmich, J. F., Austrian Cons.-Gen. for Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Flora of Island of St. Paul, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_312">312</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_315">315</a></li>
+
+<li>Flying Fish, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Fox (Pteropus), or Kalong Bat, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Fonseca, Friar Joachim, Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Foot-print of Buddha, Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_413">413</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_415">415</a></li>
+
+<li>Fort St. George, Madras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_428">428</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_474">474</a></li>
+
+<li>Fortune, Rob., naturalist, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_508">508</a></li>
+
+<li>Foundling and orphan children in China, statistics of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_421">421</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_423">423</a></li>
+
+<li>Foveau Straits, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Franciscan monks, monastery of, at Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Frangerola, harbour of, in Spain, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li>French language compulsorily introduced into Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; naval stations in Oceania, remarks on, iii. <a href="#Page_248">248</a>-<a href="#Page_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; protection of Tahiti, its influence on commerce, iii. <a href="#Page_248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Friedrich, Dr., philologist (Batavia), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Friedrich's Islands (the Nicobars, which see)</li>
+
+<li>Fukien, or Fo-Kien, province of China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_371">371</a></li>
+
+<li>Funchal, description of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_91">91</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Funeral customs of Australian aborigines, iii. <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>; of Nicobar Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_32">32</a>
+<!--539.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_527" id="Page_527">527</a></span></li>
+<li>Fung-yun-san, one of the founders of the Tai-ping sect, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_530">530</a>;
+  his marriage with "the Heavenly Sister," 530</li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">G</li>
+
+<li>Gadok, sanitary hill-station in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Galatea</i>, Danish corvette, visit of, to the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_13">13</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Galatea River on the island of Great Nicobar, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_76">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Gallinazos, or Turkey buzzards, at Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Gamelong, or alarm-drum of Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Gamhi plantations, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Ganeza, Temple of, at Madras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_461">461</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Ganges</i>, H.M.S., courtesy shown by officers of, iii, <a href="#Page_323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Garden Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_627">627</a></li>
+
+<li>Garua, the, substitute for rain in Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_351">351</a>-<a href="#Page_366">366</a></li>
+
+<li>Gaspar Straits, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Gay, Claude, his work on Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li>Gecko, the (Ceylon), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_360">360</a></li>
+
+<li>Gedeh, volcano of, in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_218">218</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_221">221</a></li>
+
+<li>Genaadendal, Moravian colony of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_229">229</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>German Emigrants in Rio, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_164">164</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_173">173</a>;
+  in Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_494">494</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_496">496</a>;
+  in Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>-<a href="#Page_318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Gibraltar, description of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_29">29</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_46">46</a>;
+  return to, iii. <a href="#Page_448">448</a>-<a href="#Page_450">450</a></li>
+
+<li>Gilli-Mali, village of Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_407">407</a></li>
+
+<li>Ginseng root, China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_439">439</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Glossina morsitans.</i> <i>See</i> Tsetse.</li>
+
+<li>Goddess of the Sea (or Queen of Heaven), Temple to the, at Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_428">428</a></li>
+
+<li>Gold-fields of Australia, statistics of, iii. <a href="#Page_66">66</a>-<a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Gower Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_595">595</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Graculus Indicus</i>, or Maina, at the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Grass-cloth, manufacture of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Gravosa, arrival at, on return voyage, iii. <a href="#Page_452">452</a></li>
+
+<li>Great Nicobar, description of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_76">76</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Green Indigo (Chinese green), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_370">370</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_378">378</a></li>
+
+<li>Green stone, Nephrite, or Jade, weapons made from, iii. <a href="#Page_118">118</a>;
+  history of a large block of, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Gregory, his expedition in search of Dr. Leichhardt, iii. <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Grey, Sir George, his works on the ancient Maories and their dialects, iii. <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li>
+
+<li>Gros, Baron de, French Plenipotentiary in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_468">468</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_471">471</a>;
+  ludicrous malady of, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_471">471</a></li>
+
+<li>Guadalcanar, one of the Solomon Group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_624">624</a></li>
+
+<li>Guam, or Guaham, Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_550">550</a></li>
+
+<li>Guamul, the Chilean deer, iii. <a href="#Page_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li>Guano. <i>See</i> Chincha Islands.</li>
+
+<li>Guava, the (<i>Psidium Guava</i>), of Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li>
+
+<li>Guindy Park, Madras, children's fête in, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_453">453</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_457">457</a></li>
+
+<li>Gunpowder trade with New Zealand rebels, iii. <a href="#Page_135">135</a>
+<!--540.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_528" id="Page_528">528</a></span></li>
+<li>Gunyahs (Sandstone cavities), New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Gutzlaff Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_409">409</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">H</li>
+
+<li>Haast, J., naturalist, accompanies the geologist of the Expedition into the interior of New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li>
+
+<li>Hakka dialect, in use in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Hall of United Benevolence at Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_426">426</a>;
+  of Council, Shanghai, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_427">427</a></li>
+
+<li>Hance, Dr., Botanist at Hong-kong, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_379">379</a></li>
+
+<li>Hand-book in Chinese of Physiology and practical Surgery, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li>Hangi-Maori, New Zealander's cooking oven, iii. <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Hargraves, the practical discoverer of the Australian gold-fields, iii. <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li>Harland, Dr., Hong-kong, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_379">379</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li>Hartmann, Madame, Buitenzorg, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_266">266</a></li>
+
+<li>Haszkarl, Dr., Botanist, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_228">228</a>, iii. <a href="#Page_410">410</a></li>
+
+<li>Hawaiki, Island of, supposed cradle of the New Zealand race, iii. <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Hay, Capt. Drummond, in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Heaphy, Charles, Chief Engineer, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li>
+
+<li>Hemeralopia, prevalence of, on board, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Herredia, Dr. Cajetano, of Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_374">374</a></li>
+
+<li>Herzl, Dr., of Santiago di Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_308">308</a></li>
+
+<li>Hill, Edward, Esq., of Sydney, his thorough acquaintance with native language and customs, iii. <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;
+  excursion with, to Wulongong, iii. <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Hindoo Temple at Madras, visit to, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_430">430</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Hippomane Mancinella</i> (Poison tree), Central America, iii. <a href="#Page_438">438</a></li>
+
+<li>Hobson, Dr. B., of Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_451">451</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li>Hochstetter, Dr. Ferdinand, Geologist to the Expedition, abridged narrative of his scientific tours in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_155">155</a>-<a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>-<a href="#Page_194">194</a>;
+  addresses to. <i>See</i> Appendix.</li>
+
+<li>Hoei, or Tuité-Huy, Fraternity of Heaven and Earth (secret society of Chinese), tenets of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Hogg, James, Hanseatic Consul, Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_477">477</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_494">494</a></li>
+
+<li>Holothuria. <i>See</i> Trepang.</li>
+
+<li>Hong-kong, description of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_355">355</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_364">364</a></li>
+
+<li>Horse, first introduction of, into Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Hot-springs, Island of St. Paul, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_280">280</a>;
+  of Brand Vley, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_227">227</a></li>
+
+<li>Hottentots, habits of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>"House of Big Words" (<i>Fare Aporáa</i>), the Parliament House at Papeete, Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_210">210</a>-<a href="#Page_212">212</a></li>
+
+<li>Howe, W., associate of the London Missionary Society in Papeete, iii. <a href="#Page_214">214</a>-<a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Huanchaco harbour, Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_418">418</a></li>
+
+<li>Hui Haupapa, a New Zealand chief, oration of, iii. <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+
+<li>Humboldt, Alex. von, his physical and geognostic memoranda, i. (Introduction);
+<!--541.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_529" id="Page_529">529</a></span></li>
+<li> intelligence of his death, how received in South America, iii. <a href="#Page_423">423</a>, <a href="#Page_424">424</a></li>
+
+<li>Humboldt's Current, iii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a></li>
+
+<li>Hung-Tsin-Tsuen, chief of the Tai-pings, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_523">523</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_526">526</a></li>
+
+<li>Huraka Gulf, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Hursthouse, his latest work on New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Hwa-táh, nine-storied Pagoda, near Canton, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_396">396</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Hyrax Capensis</i>, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">I</li>
+
+<li>Ice, statistics of trade at Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_373">373</a>;
+  at Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_302">302</a>;
+  at Panama, <a href="#Page_427">427</a>, <a href="#Page_428">428</a></li>
+
+<li>Ichthyosis, prevalence of, among the natives of the island of Puynipet, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_573">573</a></li>
+
+<li>Illawara District, New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_25">25</a>-<a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Infanticide in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_369">369</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_372">372</a></li>
+
+<li>Iquique Harbour, Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_342">342</a>, <a href="#Page_352">352</a></li>
+
+<li>Isthmus of Panama, trade over, iii. <a href="#Page_428">428</a>-<a href="#Page_431">431</a>;
+  geographical and physical features of, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>, <a href="#Page_437">437</a></li>
+
+<li>Iting, village in Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Itoe, village on Nangkauri (Nicobar), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_49">49</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Iwi, demon of the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_70">70</a>;
+  an exorciser of, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_69">69</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">J</li>
+
+<li>Jacatra, ancient name of Batavia, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Jade-stone, its value in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>Jansen, Florentin Tepano, Bishop of Axieri in Papeete, iii. <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li>
+
+<li>Java, excursions in, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_181">181</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_280">280</a></li>
+
+<li>Jesuit mission of Sikkawéi, Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_477">477</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_483">483</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Joseph and Theresa</i>, first Austrian ship to visit the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Joss-paper, used in Chinese temples, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_432">432</a></li>
+
+<li>Joss-sticks, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_341">341</a></li>
+
+<li>Junghuhn, Dr. Franz, his career, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_252">252</a>;
+  desiderata of China bark cultivation, iii. <a href="#Page_409">409</a>-<a href="#Page_412">412</a></li>
+
+<li>Jungle-men of the Nicobar Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_40">40</a></li>
+
+<li>Junks, Chinese, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_352">352</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_392">392</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_413">413</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_478">478</a></li>
+
+<li>Jurujuba Cove, Bay of Rio de Janeiro, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_158">158</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">K</li>
+
+<li>Kalamander-wood, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Kalong Bat. <i>See</i> Flying Fox.</li>
+
+<li>Kamorta, Island of, Nicobar Group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Kampong, Chinese colonies in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Kane, Dr., of Macao, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_396">396</a></li>
+
+<li>Kangaroo Hunting, in New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Kar-Nicobar, Island of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_481">481</a>, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_16">16</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Karroo, the (Cape Colony), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li>Katschal, Island of, Nicobar Group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Kauri forest, a, in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Kauri pine, iii. <a href="#Page_151">151</a>
+<!--542.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_530" id="Page_530">530</a></span></li>
+<li>Kawa beverage, its intoxicating properties, and how prepared in Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_245">245</a>-<a href="#Page_247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Kawa plant (<i>Piper methysticum</i>), its properties, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_568">568</a>, iii. <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Kawaïn, extract of Kawa, iii. <a href="#Page_246">246</a>-<a href="#Page_248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Keasberry, B. P., Missionary at Singapore, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Keira Hills, New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_37">37</a>;
+  coal-fields in, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Kennedy, E. B., his fatal exploring expedition to Cape York, Northern Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Kentsch, singular malady in Puynipet, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_574">574</a></li>
+
+<li>Klings, natives of Coromandel coast, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Knight, Dr., Botanist, Auckland, iii. <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li>
+
+<li>Koek, M. de, Batavia, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Koeping, one of the earliest visitors to the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_2">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Kolowrat, mountain on the Island of Malaýta, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_596">596</a></li>
+
+<li>Komios, village in Kar-Nicobar, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_38">38</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Kondúl, Island of the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Krammat, mausoleum of a Malay prophet at the Cape, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_244">244</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Kratochwil, Joseph, physician in Panama, iii. <a href="#Page_428">428</a></li>
+
+<li>Krishna, the Hindoo Divinity, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_436">436</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li>Kulczycki, Adam, Director of native department at Papeete, iii. <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
+
+<li>Kumara (<i>Convolvulus Batata</i>), New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
+
+<li>Kus-kus grass (<i>Andropogon muricatum</i>), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_465">465</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">L</li>
+
+<li>Labour, European and Chinese compared, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_148">148</a></li>
+
+<li>Laguna de Bay, Manila, excursion to, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_325">325</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_341">341</a></li>
+
+<li>Laguna Encantada, the enchanted Lake near Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_335">335</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_338">338</a></li>
+
+<li>Lalang grass (<i>Saccharum Koenigii</i>), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Lambajeque, harbourage on coast of Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Lammat mountains, Solomon Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_624">624</a></li>
+
+<li>Lang, J. D., Sydney, his historical and political works and address to Frankfort Congress, iii. <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Lao-tse, Chinese sage, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_435">435</a></li>
+
+<li>La Pérouse, monument to, at Botany Bay, iii. <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Las Esmeraldas, Hacienda in Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_311">311</a>-<a href="#Page_313">313</a></li>
+
+<li>Lascars, Indian porters, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_426">426</a></li>
+
+<li>Laval, Catholic Missionary to Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Layard, C. P., Government agent in Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_396">396</a></li>
+
+<li>Lazar village. <i>See</i> Leper village.</li>
+
+<li>Le Breton, Physician in Panama, iii. <a href="#Page_428">428</a></li>
+
+<li>Lee Harbour. <i>See</i> Roankiddi Harbour.</li>
+
+<li>Leeches, land-, of Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_407">407</a></li>
+
+<li>Legabalu, Island of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_1">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Legaspi, conqueror of the Philippines, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_286">286</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_287">287</a>
+<!--543.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_531" id="Page_531">531</a></span></li>
+<li>Leichhardt, his tragical fate in Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Lemmas Canal, Hong-kong, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_353">353</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Leonitis Leonurus</i>, masticatory used by the Hottentots, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_241">241</a></li>
+
+<li>Leper village near Canton, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_457">457</a></li>
+
+<li>Leprosy in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_455">455</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_459">459</a></li>
+
+<li>Lima, account of, iii. <a href="#Page_364">364</a>-<a href="#Page_383">383</a></li>
+
+<li>"Line," ceremony in "crossing the," i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_115">115</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_117">117</a></li>
+
+<li>Little Hong-kong, small fishing village of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_379">379</a></li>
+
+<li>Little Nicobar, Island of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Liu-tschiu (or Loo-choo) Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_538">538</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_543">543</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_547">547</a></li>
+
+<li>Llama, introduction of, into Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_64">64</a>-<a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Lobschied, Dr. W., school inspector, Hong-kong, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_369">369</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_379">379</a></li>
+
+<li>Logan, Dr. Abraham, editor of "Singapore Free Press," ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; J. H., publisher of "Journal of Indian Archipelago," ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_161">161</a></li>
+
+<li>Lombok, embassy from the king of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_199">199</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>London Missionary Society, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_451">451</a>, iii. <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>-<a href="#Page_216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Long-Fah, Pagoda of, near Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_484">484</a></li>
+
+<li>Loo-Rock, lofty rock near Funchal, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Los Baños, village near Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_332">332</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_335">335</a></li>
+
+<li>Lossen, W., his experiments on the cocoa leaf, iii. <a href="#Page_407">407</a></li>
+
+<li>Lu Kao. <i>See</i> Green Indigo.</li>
+
+<li>Lunatic Asylum, Rio, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_142">142</a>;
+  Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_348">348</a>; Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_378">378</a></li>
+
+<li>Lütke, Russian Admiral, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_552">552</a></li>
+
+<li>Luzon, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_281">281</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_284">284</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">M</li>
+
+<li>Macarthur, Sir William, New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_20">20</a>-<a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Macartney, Lord, his embassy to China, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>2, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li>Macleay, botanist, New South Wales, his residence at Elizabeth Bay, iii. <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Madras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_424">424</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_447">447</a></li>
+
+<li>Mafoûmo river, on East coast of Africa, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Magdalena</i>, steamer, voyage home in, iii. <a href="#Page_443">443</a>-<a href="#Page_447">447</a></li>
+
+<li>Magelhaen, discovers Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_285">285</a>;
+  his fate, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_310">310</a>;
+  Straits of, settlement in, iii. <a href="#Page_317">317</a>;
+  projected steam-tug line through, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>-<a href="#Page_320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Magnetic declination, zero point of, iii. <a href="#Page_257">257</a>-<a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; needle, variation of, iii. <a href="#Page_257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Mahabharata, Indian poem of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_472">472</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_474">474</a></li>
+
+<li>Mahamalaipur, City of the Holy Hill, monolith temples at, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_464">464</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_474">474</a></li>
+
+<li>Mahawanso, Cingalese epic poem, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_395">395</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_396">396</a></li>
+
+<li>Mahishasura, the Indian giant, memorial of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_467">467</a></li>
+
+<li>Maigrat, Catholic missionary to Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+
+<li>Maipú bridge, Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_308">308</a></li>
+
+<li>Makok, pagoda near Macao, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Makun, St. Sebastian de, Catholic mission of, near Caltura, Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_369">369</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_401">401</a>
+<!--544.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_532" id="Page_532">532</a></span></li>
+<li>Malacca Straits, navigation in, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_132">132</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Malaýta, Island of, Solomon group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_596">596</a></li>
+
+<li>Mamaku (<i>Cyathea Medullaris</i>), the tree-fern, specimens in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
+
+<li>Mandioca flour (Brazil), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Mangatawhiri, river in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li>
+
+<li>Mangrove forest at Puynipet, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_563">563</a></li>
+
+<li>Mangrove swamps in the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_72">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Manila hemp. <i>See</i> Abáca.</li>
+
+<li>Manila, stay at and description of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_290">290</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_310">310</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_342">342</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_349">349</a></li>
+
+<li>Manluéna, or exerciser of evil spirits among the Nicobarians, quackery of the, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Manukau hills (New Zealand), excursion to the, iii. <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Maoris, or Mauris, aboriginal inhabitants of New Zealand, speculations on their past and future, iii. <a href="#Page_97">97</a>-<a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Maori chiefs, reception of by the governor, iii. <a href="#Page_136">136</a>-<a href="#Page_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; king, iii. <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; meeting in Drury, iii. <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; poetry, specimens of, iii. <a href="#Page_129">129</a>-<a href="#Page_132">132</a>;
+  proverbs, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>-<a href="#Page_129">129</a></li>
+
+<li>Marine currents, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_55">55</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Mass meeting of natives of New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_99">99</a>-<a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+
+<li>Matavai, native village in Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li>
+
+<li>Maury, Commander, U.S.N., his sea-charts, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Meadows, J.A.T., government interpreter at Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_473">473</a></li>
+
+<li>Meal, imports into Brazil from Austria, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Medanos, wandering sand-hills in Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_350">350</a></li>
+
+<li>Medical school in Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_374">374</a>, <a href="#Page_375">375</a></li>
+
+<li>Meester Cornelis Bazaar, near Batavia, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_274">274</a></li>
+
+<li>Megabalu, Island of, Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_1">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Megamendoeng, pass of, in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_211">211</a></li>
+
+<li>Melepilla, town in Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Melori (<i>Pandanus</i>), bread of the Nicobarians, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_65">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Menu, the Hindoo lawgiver, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_435">435</a></li>
+
+<li>Meridian of 180°, crossing the, iii. <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Meri-Meri, New Zealand war-club, iii. <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+
+<li>Meroe, island of, Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_82">82</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Merrimac</i>, U.S.N., iii, <a href="#Page_417">417</a></li>
+
+<li>Messina, return to, iii. <a href="#Page_451">451</a></li>
+
+<li>Metelenian, harbour of, in Puynipet island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_553">553</a>; aboriginal race on Puynipet, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_575">575</a></li>
+
+<li>Miáu-Tze, a wild race in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_461">461</a></li>
+
+<li>Miliani, Father, Catholic missionary in Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_370">370</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_402">402</a></li>
+
+<li>Military library in Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_342">342</a>;
+  hospital in Batavia, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Milk, human, sold in China for vaccine, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_438">438</a> (note)</li>
+
+<li>Missionaries, Protestant, in Puynipet Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_563">563</a>;
+<!--545.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_533" id="Page_533">533</a></span></li>
+<li> Catholic and Protestant, disputes of, in the Society group, iii. <a href="#Page_200">200</a>-<a href="#Page_205">205</a>;
+  Catholic, their first appearance in Oceania, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>-<a href="#Page_209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Mitchell's Pass, New South Wales. <i>See</i> Broughton's Pass.</li>
+
+<li>Moa (<i>Palapteryx ingens</i>), gigantic extinct bird of New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Moehrenhout, American consul at Papeete, religious partisanship of, iii. <a href="#Page_205">205</a>-<a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Moesta, Dr., astronomer of Santiago de Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Moko, or face-tattooing among the Maories, iii. <a href="#Page_110">110</a>-<a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Monasteries in Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_370">370</a>-<a href="#Page_372">372</a></li>
+
+<li>Monghata, hill of, in the Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Montial, island of, one of the Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Montigny, M. de, French consul at Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_467">467</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_512">512</a></li>
+
+<li>Montt, Manuel, President of Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_303">303</a>-<a href="#Page_305">305</a>;
+  interview with, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>;
+  his position with respect to the ultramontane party, <a href="#Page_305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Monuments of Chinese female philanthropists, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_446">446</a></li>
+
+<li>Moore, Charles, Director of the Botanical Garden in Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Mooyart, Government assistant in Colombo, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_407">407</a></li>
+
+<li>Moravian settlements (<i>see</i> also Genaadendal) on Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_94">94</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Morea, Island of. <i>See</i> Eimeo.</li>
+
+<li>Moreton Bay, its capabilities for wool growing, iii. <a href="#Page_47">47</a>-<a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Morok (<i>Casuarius Bennetti</i>), iii. <a href="#Page_14">14</a> (note)</li>
+
+<li>Morrok, bay of, Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Mosse, village on Kar-Nicobar, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_481">481</a></li>
+
+<li>Motu-Uta, island in Papeete harbour (Tahiti), iii. <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li>
+
+<li>Mouat, Dr., of Calcutta, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_458">458</a></li>
+
+<li>Mould, Col., chief of engineer corps, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Mount Egmont, or Taranaki Mountain (New Zealand), iii. <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+
+<li>Mozambique negroes in Brazil, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Muirhead, W., English missionary in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_418">418</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_452">452</a></li>
+
+<li>Mulberry trees in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_499">499</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Musa textilis</i> (wild banana), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_324">324</a></li>
+
+<li>Museum of natural history in Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_9">9</a>;
+  at Santiago de Chile, <a href="#Page_301">301</a></li>
+
+<li>Musical instruments of the Nicobarians, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_122">122</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">N</li>
+
+<li>Nadaud, Dr., physician at Papeete (Tahiti), iii. <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li>
+
+<li>Nahlap Islands, near Puynipet Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_558">558</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_560">560</a></li>
+
+<li>Nannekin, chief of Puynipet Island, visit to, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_570">570</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_573">573</a></li>
+
+<li>National Library, Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_375">375</a>-<a href="#Page_377">377</a>;
+  Museum, Lima, <a href="#Page_377">377</a>, <a href="#Page_378">378</a></li>
+
+<li>Negro population of Brazil, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_166">166</a></li>
+
+<li>Negroes, the emancipation of, at St. Thomas successfully carried out, iii. <a href="#Page_442">442</a>, <a href="#Page_443">443</a>
+<!--546.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_534" id="Page_534">534</a></span></li>
+<li>Negrillos or Negritos del Monte, Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_293">293</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_295">295</a></li>
+
+<li>Negro-head tobacco of America, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_575">575</a></li>
+
+<li>Nelson, province of, in New Zealand, and geological researches therein, iii. <a href="#Page_188">188</a>-<a href="#Page_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Nephrite. <i>See</i> Jade.</li>
+
+<li>New Caledonia, proposition of Dr. J. D. Lang to found there a German settlement, iii. <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;
+  attempts of the French to annex same, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>New Plymouth, province of New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>New year's eve at the Antipodes, iii. <a href="#Page_166">166</a>-<a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>New Zealanders. <i>See</i> Maories.</li>
+
+<li>Ngara, Lament for, specimen of New Zealand poetry, iii. <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Nicobar archipelago, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_1">1</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Niemann, Dr. Albert, his discovery of cocain, iii. <a href="#Page_406">406</a></li>
+
+<li>Nopal plantations. <i>See</i> Cochineal.</li>
+
+<li>Norfolk Island. <i>See</i> <i>Bounty</i>, mutiny of.</li>
+
+<li>North Cape, Australia, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_627">627</a></li>
+
+<li>North China Herald, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_386">386</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_496">496</a></li>
+
+<li>"Norther," description of a, at Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>Norzagaray, Don Fernando, Governor-General of the Philippines, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_307">307</a></li>
+
+<li>Nót, an aboriginal race on Puynipet Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_575">575</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Novara</i>, her equipment, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_4">4</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_9">9</a>;
+  at the dry-dock, Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;
+  festivities on board in honour of the birth of a crown prince, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>-<a href="#Page_54">54</a>;
+  return to Trieste, <a href="#Page_455">455</a>;
+  retrospect of her career, <a href="#Page_456">456</a>-<a href="#Page_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li>Nukahiwa, island of, Marquesas group, iii. <a href="#Page_250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Nunneries in Shanghai for Chinese ladies, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_435">435</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_436">436</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">O</li>
+
+<li>Observatory at Santiago de Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li>Odd Fourth, game at cards, introduced by sailors among the natives of Sikayana, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_602">602</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Oïdium Tuckeri</i>, Madeira, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Onehunga, village in Auckland province, iii. <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Opium, how prepared, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_154">154</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_160">160</a>;
+  annual imports of, into China, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_518">518</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_523">523</a>;
+  its cost in China, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_523">523</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; boats on the Wusung, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_411">411</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; smokers, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_157">157</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_274">274</a>;
+  number of, in China, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_523">523</a></li>
+
+<li>Opposition line between New York and California, iii. <a href="#Page_426">426</a></li>
+
+<li>Oraki, a Maori village, iii. <a href="#Page_147">147</a>-<a href="#Page_149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Oranges, exportations of, from Tahiti into California, iii. <a href="#Page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Otahuha, village near Auckland, iii. <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li>
+
+<li>Overbeck, M. Gustav, Prussian Consul at Hong-kong, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_378">378</a></li>
+
+<li>Owen, Captain, his visit to the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_3">3</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">P</li>
+
+<li>Paarl, village of, Cape Colony, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Pachacamác, ruins of, iii. <a href="#Page_390">390</a>-<a href="#Page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Páh, a New Zealand native entrenchment, iii. <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>
+<!--547.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_535" id="Page_535">535</a></span></li>
+<li>Pakin Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_589">589</a></li>
+
+<li>Pampero (storm from the pampas), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Panama, description of, iii. <a href="#Page_424">424</a>-<a href="#Page_429">429</a>;
+  "Star and Herald," 428;
+  Railroad, description of, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>-<a href="#Page_438">438</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Panax Ginseng.</i> <i>See</i> Ginseng.</li>
+
+<li>Pandanus tree, its exuberance on the Nicobar Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Paomotu Islands, iii. <a href="#Page_260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Paora Tahuera, New Zealand chief, address of, to the Expedition, iii. <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Papakura, plains of, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Papaoa, village in Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Papeete, capital of Tahiti, its position, iii. <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>;
+  origin of name and mode of spelling, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>-<a href="#Page_212">212</a>;
+  Tahitian orators at, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>-<a href="#Page_214">214</a>;
+  its religious and social condition under the French Protectorate, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>-<a href="#Page_220">220</a>;
+  Governor's ball, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>-<a href="#Page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Paréu, a Tahitian native garment, iii. <a href="#Page_221">221</a>-<a href="#Page_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li>Parkes, Harry, English Commissioner at Canton, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_385">385</a></li>
+
+<li>Parliament at Tahiti, speeches in, iii. <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li>
+
+<li>Patterson, Mr. M., Principal of St. John's College, Auckland, iii. <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Patuóni, New Zealand chief, iii. <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Paul, St., Island of, described, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_267">267</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Payta, harbour of, Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_420">420</a>-<a href="#Page_422">422</a></li>
+
+<li>Pearls, artificial, how made, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_387">387</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_388">388</a></li>
+
+<li>Pearl-fishery of Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_379">379</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_388">388</a>;
+  of Panama, iii. <a href="#Page_429">429</a></li>
+
+<li>Pearl, mother-o', procured at Paomotu and Gambier Islands, iii. <a href="#Page_240">240</a> (note)</li>
+
+<li>Pedro-talla-galla, highest mountain in Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_412">412</a></li>
+
+<li>Peh-lah, vegetable wax of China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_518">518</a></li>
+
+<li>Pekin, Treaty of Peace concluded at, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_388">388</a></li>
+
+<li>Peluqueros, political party in Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Penguins, in St. Paul Island, ludicrous movements of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_281">281</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>Pettah, the, or Black quarter, Colombo, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_372">372</a></li>
+
+<li>Pfitzmaier, Dr., an eminent Sinologue, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_367">367</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_418">418</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_461">461</a>;
+  his explanation of Chinese written character, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_526">526</a></li>
+
+<li>Philippi, Dr., Professor in College of Santiago, iii. <a href="#Page_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Phormium tenax</i>, New Zealand flax, iii. <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Phosphorescent glow in the sea, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Physical and geognostic memoranda. <i>See</i> Humboldt.</li>
+
+<li>Pia, the (<i>Tacca Pinnatifida</i>), Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Piaco, river, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Pico Ruivo, Madeira, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Pih-kwei, Tartar general, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_385">385</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Piper methysticum.</i> <i>See</i> Kawa.</li>
+
+<li>Pisco, town in Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_354">354</a>-<a href="#Page_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li>Pissis, Aimé, geologist of Santiago, iii. <a href="#Page_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li>Pitcairn Island, History of.  <i>See</i> <i>Bounty</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Pizarro, conqueror of Peru, his corpse exposed to view in the catacombs of Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_369">369</a>;
+<!--548.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_536" id="Page_536">536</a></span></li>
+<li> his portrait in the National Museum, <a href="#Page_378">378</a></li>
+
+<li>Point de Galle, Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_359">359</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_361">361</a></li>
+
+<li>Point Venus, Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_222">222</a>;
+  revolving lighthouse on, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li>
+
+<li>Pola, chief naval arsenal of Austria, iii. <a href="#Page_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li>Polyandria, prevalence of, in Ceylon, and cause, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_365">365</a></li>
+
+<li>Polygamy in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_371">371</a></li>
+
+<li>Pomáre II., King of Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_198">198</a>;
+  origin of name, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>;
+  his remark on first beholding a horse, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Pomáre, Queen, her letter to Louis Philippe, iii. <a href="#Page_208">208</a>;
+  her civil list, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>; her residence, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>;
+  rudeness of French authorities to, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>-<a href="#Page_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Pomperos. <i>See</i> Fire Companies.</li>
+
+<li>Poncho, the native Chilean garb, iii. <a href="#Page_294">294</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Porcelaine-craquelée</i>, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_440">440</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Porta Aurea</i> at Pola, ruins of, iii. <a href="#Page_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li>Port Curtis, North Australia, gold-fields of, iii. <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;
+  fate of the gold-seekers there, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Port d'Islay, Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_349">349</a>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a></li>
+
+<li>Port Jackson (Sydney Harbour), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_627">627</a>;
+  first settlement there of convicts, iii. <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Potatáu, chief of the Waikato race, first king of the Maories, iii. <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Praya Grande, promenade at Macao, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_405">405</a></li>
+
+<li>Pré Catalan, pleasure gardens at Papeete, iii. <a href="#Page_219">219</a>-<a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Public Schools at Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_443">443</a></li>
+
+<li>Puka-puka, the New Zealand <i>papyrus</i>, iii. <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li>
+
+<li>Pulicat-Lake, near Madras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_475">475</a></li>
+
+<li>Punkah, its uses in India, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_360">360</a></li>
+
+<li>Purchas, A. G., pastor of Onehunga, iii. <a href="#Page_155">155</a>;
+  first discoverer of the Drury coal-beds, New Zealand, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Puynipet, Island of, visit to, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_551">551</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_588">588</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">Q</li>
+
+<li>Quebradas, caves near Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li>Quillota, Chile, favourite summer resort for the residents of Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_314">314</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></li>
+
+<li>Quilpué, village in Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_291">291</a>;
+  <i>fête champêtre</i> there to the Expedition, iii, <a href="#Page_292">292</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">R</li>
+
+<li>Radhen Adipati Aria Kusuma Ningrat, a Javanese "Regent," ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_264">264</a></li>
+
+<li>Radhen Adipati Wira Natu Kusuma, a Javanese "Regent," ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_252">252</a></li>
+
+<li>Radhen Rangga Padma Negara, a Javanese Chief, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_214">214</a></li>
+
+<li>Radhen Saleh, a Javanese Artist, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Raffles, Sir T. Stamford, his services to Singapore, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_138">138</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_140">140</a></li>
+
+<li>Ragusa, iii. <a href="#Page_452">452</a></li>
+
+<li>Railroads&mdash;Rio, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_161">161</a>;
+  Madras, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_447">447</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_453">453</a>;
+  Batavia, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_204">204</a>;
+  New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_20">20</a>-<a href="#Page_43">43</a>;
+  Chile, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>-<a href="#Page_310">310</a>;
+  Isthmus of Panama, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>-<a href="#Page_438">438</a>
+<!--549.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_537" id="Page_537">537</a></span></li>
+<li>Raimondi, Professor, at Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_374">374</a></li>
+
+<li>Rain-fall, annual amount of, in Gibraltar, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_36">36</a>;
+  in Buitenzorg (Java), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_208">208</a>;
+  at the Solomon group, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_624">624</a></li>
+
+<li>Rama, the Hindoo Divinity, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_436">436</a></li>
+
+<li>Rama-Rama, a settlement in the heart of the New Zealand forests, iii. <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Ramé-fibre. See <i>Boehmeria nivea</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Rancho, description of a, iii. <a href="#Page_287">287</a>, <a href="#Page_389">389</a></li>
+
+<li>Rangitakí. <i>See</i> Wiremu Kingi.</li>
+
+<li>Raorao (<i>Pteris Esculenta</i>), the New Zealand fern, iii. <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li>
+
+<li>Rasamala forest of Java (<i>Liquid Ambar Altingiana</i>), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Ratnapoora, Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_406">406</a></li>
+
+<li>Reed, Mr., Minister, plenipotentiary of United States to China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_466">466</a></li>
+
+<li>Réi, settlement on Puynipet Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_561">561</a></li>
+
+<li>Rerehau-Hemara, of Ngatiapakura, in New Zealand, enters as a seaman on board the <i>Novara</i>, iii. <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Retrospect of the results of the voyage, iii. <a href="#Page_456">456</a>-<a href="#Page_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li>Rewarewa, head-dress of Maori woman, iii. <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li>
+
+<li>Rhanganatha Swami, Rock Temple, near Madras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_466">466</a></li>
+
+<li>Rice-paper in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_363">363</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_364">364</a></li>
+
+<li>"Rickety Dick," last survivor of the Port Jackson aborigines, iii. <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Ried, Dr. Aquinas, Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_293">293</a></li>
+
+<li>Rüse, A., Pharmaceutist and Zoologist at St. Thomas, iii. <a href="#Page_442">442</a></li>
+
+<li>Roankiddi Harbour, in Puynipet Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_561">561</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; race, manners and customs of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_570">570</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_575">575</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; river on Puynipet Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_563">563</a></li>
+
+<li>Roberts, J. C., Protestant missionary, and present (late) foreign minister of the Tai-Ping rebels, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_528">528</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_532">532</a></li>
+
+<li>Robertson, Mr. Brook, English Consul, Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_472">472</a></li>
+
+<li>Robinson, J. P., Superintendent of Nelson Province, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Roccella tinctoria</i>, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Rochleder, Prof., of Prague, his instructions with reference to investigating the geographical distribution of plants, iii. <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Rochouse, Etienne, priest of the Society of Picpus, iii. <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosen, Pastor, missionary at the Nicobars, his residence at, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_74">74</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">S</li>
+
+<li>Saddle Islands, Chinese Sea, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_409">409</a></li>
+
+<li>Sago palm, the, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Saisset, M., Governor of Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>-<a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Salak Gunung, volcano in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Salangan, swallow on the Nicobars, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_58">58</a>;
+  at Java, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_235">235</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_237">237</a>
+<!--550.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_538" id="Page_538">538</a></span></li>
+<li>Saltpetre, obtained at Iquique, iii. <a href="#Page_343">343</a></li>
+
+<li>Sambelong. <i>See</i> Great Nicobar.</li>
+
+<li>Sampan, or Chinese boat, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_413">413</a></li>
+
+<li>Samschoo, a Chinese beverage obtained from rice, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_474">474</a></li>
+
+<li>San Cristoval, island of, Solomon group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_596">596</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_624">624</a></li>
+
+<li>San Luis de Apra, harbour in Marianne Archipelago, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_549">549</a></li>
+
+<li>San Miguel, village near Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_348">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Sandal-wood cutters, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_609">609</a>;
+  atrocities perpetrated by, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_610">610</a></li>
+
+<li>Sandy Cape, Australia, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_626">626</a></li>
+
+<li>Santiago de Chile, visit to, iii. <a href="#Page_295">295</a>-<a href="#Page_303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Sargasso, Mar de, iii. <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Sàui, village of the Nicobar Islands, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_481">481</a>, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_83">83</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Saya y Manto</i>, the native dress of the Lima ladies, decline in the use of, iii. <a href="#Page_399">399</a></li>
+
+<li>Scherzer, Dr. von, overland journey from Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_337">337</a>-<a href="#Page_447">447</a></li>
+
+<li>Schierbrand, Col. von, Batavia, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Schroff, or Chinese factotum.  See <i>Comprador</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Schu-king (old Chinese Book), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_498">498</a></li>
+
+<li>Sculptures of aboriginal Australians, iii. <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Sea-birds, habits of. <i>See</i> Cape Pigeon, Albatross, &amp;c.</li>
+
+<li>Serpent-breeding in Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_362">362</a></li>
+
+<li>Sesarga, Island of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_624">624</a></li>
+
+<li>Sheep, statistics of, in New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_62">62</a>-<a href="#Page_64">64</a>;
+  in Australia at large, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;
+  estimated value of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Ship's complement, crew, officers, and scientific staff, i. Appendix</li>
+
+<li>Shrove Tuesday on shipboard, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Sicard, Dr. Adrian, monograph on Chinese sugar-cane, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_513">513</a></li>
+
+<li>Sikayana, visit to, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_601">601</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_622">622</a></li>
+
+<li>Sikkawéi, Jesuit mission at, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_480">480</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_483">483</a></li>
+
+<li>Silk, Chinese, statistics of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_498">498</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_450">450</a></li>
+
+<li>Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope, anchorage of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_195">195</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Town, description of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_197">197</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Simpson's Island, inaccurately assigned position of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_591">591</a></li>
+
+<li>Sinamay (or Sinamarre), Manila cloth, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_325">325</a> (note)</li>
+
+<li>"Singing Stones," the, Macao, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_406">406</a></li>
+
+<li>Siva, the Indian divinity, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_435">435</a></li>
+
+<li>Skulls, human, used as drinking cups in Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_34">34</a>;
+  Indian, found near Lima, <a href="#Page_393">393</a></li>
+
+<li>Slave population of Brazil, condition of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_166">166</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Slavery among the Maories, iii. <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li>
+
+<li>Smith, his block-house at Titarango, iii. <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Snook-fish (<i>Thyrsites Atun</i>), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Snow-fall on board the <i>Novara</i>, off the Horn, iii. <a href="#Page_325">325</a>
+<!--551.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_539" id="Page_539">539</a></span></li>
+<li>Sokol, or Enchanted Lake, Manila. See <i>Laguna encantada</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Solomon Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_595">595</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_597">597</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Sorghum Saccharatum</i> (Chinese sugar-cane), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_467">467</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_512">512</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_515">515</a>, iii. <a href="#Page_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Southampton, arrival of Dr. v. Scherzer at, iii. <a href="#Page_447">447</a></li>
+
+<li>Southern Cross, the, iii. <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li>
+
+<li>Southern railroad, Chile, excursion on, iii. <a href="#Page_308">308</a>-<a href="#Page_310">310</a></li>
+
+<li>Sri-Pada, or Buddha's footstep, Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_413">413</a></li>
+
+<li>St. George's Canal, Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li>St. John College, Auckland, iii. <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Thomas, Island of, iii. <a href="#Page_441">441</a>-<a href="#Page_444">444</a></li>
+
+<li>Stafford, C. W., Under Secretary of State in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Stearine, candle-factory of, at Clarence river, iii. <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Stellenbosch, town of Cape Colony, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_215">215</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Stewart, Capt., of schooner <i>Louisa</i>, his narrative of the recent history of the Pitcairn Islanders, iii. <a href="#Page_269">269</a>-<a href="#Page_276">276</a>, <a href="#Page_338">338</a></li>
+
+<li>Stewart's Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_598">598</a></li>
+
+<li>Stores for voyage, list of, i. Appendix</li>
+
+<li>Straubenzee, Lieut.-General, Commander-in-chief of allied forces in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_382">382</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_384">384</a></li>
+
+<li>Strzelecki, Count, his ethnographic work on Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Sugar-growing in Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li>Sweet potato, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_102">102</a>; of Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Sycee (or sacrificial) paper, China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_433">433</a> (note)</li>
+
+<li>Sydney, arrival at, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_627">627</a>; description of, iii. <a href="#Page_7">7</a>-<a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Syle, Rev. Mr., missionary in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">T</li>
+
+<li>Taboga, Island of, in Bay of Panama, iii. <a href="#Page_422">422</a></li>
+
+<li>Taboo, customs of, in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Tacna, city of Peru, iii. <a href="#Page_345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>Tael, Chinese currency, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_422">422</a> (note)</li>
+
+<li>Tagales, or Tagalogs, aborigines of the Philippines, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_292">292</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_296">296</a></li>
+
+<li>Tahiti, Island of, iii. <a href="#Page_196">196</a>-<a href="#Page_251">251</a>;
+  first efforts of Protestant missionaries in the Society Islands, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>-<a href="#Page_202">202</a>;
+  placed under French protectorate, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>;
+  present political condition, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>-<a href="#Page_251">251</a>;
+  physical configuration of the island, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>; climate, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>;
+  statistics of value of commerce, <a href="#Page_248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Tahitian women, their appearance and morals, iii. <a href="#Page_219">219</a>-<a href="#Page_221">221</a></li>
+
+<li>Taiarapu, peninsula of Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li>
+
+<li>Tai-ping rebels, their history, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_523">523</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_537">537</a>;
+  assume a political organization, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_527">527</a>;
+  their doctrines, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_529">529</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_533">533</a>;
+  latest intelligence respecting, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_534">534</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_537">537</a></li>
+
+<li>Takapuna district, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Taki, Chinese merchant, Shanghai, banquet given by, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_485">485</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_494">494</a>
+<!--552.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_540" id="Page_540">540</a></span></li>
+<li>Tallow-tree (<i>Stillingia Sebifera</i>) of China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_517">517</a></li>
+
+<li>Tangkuban Prahu, Javanese volcano, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_248">248</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_252">252</a></li>
+
+<li>Tanka-boat, Macao, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_393">393</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_394">394</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_406">406</a></li>
+
+<li>Taouist sect, China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_435">435</a>;
+  their convents, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_436">436</a></li>
+
+<li>Taranaki (Mount Egmont), New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_189">189</a>;
+  province and tribe, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>-<a href="#Page_191">191</a></li>
+
+<li>Taro (<i>Caladium esculentum</i>), Puynipet Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_568">568</a></li>
+
+<li>Tattooing, how performed among the Maories, iii. <a href="#Page_110">110</a>-<a href="#Page_114">114</a>;
+  on Puynipet, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_572">572</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_574">574</a></li>
+
+<li>Taú-Tái, or Governor of Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_472">472</a>;
+  interview with him, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_472">472</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_476">476</a></li>
+
+<li>Tawa, the (<i>Laurus Tawa</i>), its berries used by the Maories for the preparation of a beverage, iii. <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
+
+<li>Te-Huhu, death-song of, specimen of New Zealand dirges, iii. <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li>
+
+<li>Te Teira, New Zealand native, the purchase of whose land led to the late wars, iii. <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Tea, statistics of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_504">504</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_511">511</a></li>
+
+<li>Teijsman, J. E., Director of Botanical Garden of Buitenzorg, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Telegraph, electric, its progress in Madras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_450">450</a>;
+  in Batavia, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_204">204</a>;
+  in Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Temple of the Goddess of the Sea, Shanghai. <i>See</i> Goddess of the Sea.</li>
+
+<li>Tenákoe, the New Zealand mode of salutation, iii. <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Teressa, one of the Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Terra Japonica.</i> See <i>Acacia Catechu</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Tetakaka valley, gold-fields of, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Tetraodon Honkenyi</i> (sea-devil), fatal effects of eating, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_200">200</a></li>
+
+<li>Theatrical representations in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_486">486</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_489">489</a></li>
+
+<li>Thomson, Dr. A., anthropometrical and dynamical experiments with New Zealand natives, and their results, iii. <a href="#Page_123">123</a>-<a href="#Page_125">125</a></li>
+
+<li>Ti-plant (<i>Cordyline Australis</i>) of Tahiti, an intoxicant beverage prepared from, iii. <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Tien-tsin, treaty of, considered, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_386">386</a></li>
+
+<li>Tiffin, the Indian lunch, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Tigers, prevalence of, at Singapore, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>Til-tree (<i>Oreodaphne f&oelig;tens</i>), i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_65">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Tiles (Chinese weights), ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_156">156</a></li>
+
+<li>Tillangschong, one of the Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_84">84</a></li>
+
+<li>Tinkal. See <i>Borax</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Tjiangoer, town in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Tjiburum, river in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Tjipodas, cinchona plantation at, in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_227">227</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Tjisokan, village in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Tjitarum, river in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Toe-toe, species of New Zealand grass, iii. <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Tombs, Island of Puynipet, supposed, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_584">584</a></li>
+
+<li>Tom Weiry, a Sydney chief, iii. <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Tong-Kadu, Catholic cathedral near Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_445">445</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_478">478</a></li>
+
+<li>Tow-boats, expense of, at Hong-kong, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_408">408</a>;
+  at Shanghai, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_537">537</a>
+<!--553.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_541" id="Page_541">541</a></span></li>
+<li>Track, one of the Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Trepang (or <i>Biche de Mar</i>), different species of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_619">619</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_622">622</a>;
+  preparation for Chinese market, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_621">621</a></li>
+
+<li>Treis, Island of, Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Trieste, departure from, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_12">12</a>;
+  return to, iii. <a href="#Page_455">455</a></li>
+
+<li>Tschandú. <i>See</i> Opium.</li>
+
+<li>Tscharul Mugra (one of the <i>Flacourtiaceæ</i>), an antidote to leprosy, used in China, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_458">458</a></li>
+
+<li>Tschaura, or Chowra, Island of, Nicobar group, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_84">84</a></li>
+
+<li>Tschinapatnam, Indian village of, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_429">429</a></li>
+
+<li>Tschokóits, aboriginal race of Puynipet, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_575">575</a></li>
+
+<li>Tsetse-fly, ravages of, in Cape Colony, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_252">252</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Tuakan, Maori village, iii. <a href="#Page_166">166</a>;
+  New Year's night at, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li>
+
+<li>Tubuai, Island of, in Rorutu Archipelago, iii. <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Tupa-kihi (<i>Coriaria sarmentosa</i>) berries used for brewing purposes in New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Turnour, George, translations from Cingalese, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Typhoon, description of a, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_539">539</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_549">549</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">U</li>
+
+<li>Ulála Bay, Nicobar Islands, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_94">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Unger, Professor F., his theory as to the probable age of Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>University of Sydney, iii. <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Santiago de Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li>Upa-Upa, licentious dance of Tahitian women, iii. <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Urdaneta, Friar A., Prior of the Augustines of Manila, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Urmeneta, Don Jerónimo, foreign minister of Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_304">304</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">V</li>
+
+<li>Vahara Swami, Temple of, Madras, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_470">470</a></li>
+
+<li>Valdivia, German colony at, iii. <a href="#Page_316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Valparaiso, iii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>-<a href="#Page_291">291</a></li>
+
+<li>Vanilla plantations in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Vapour-baths, Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Vegetable wax. <i>See</i> Peh-lah.</li>
+
+<li>Vellore, visit to, and fort, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_447">447</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Venus</i>, French frigate, visits Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Vert chinois.</i> <i>See</i> Green Indigo.</li>
+
+<li>Victoria, Hong-kong, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_355">355</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_375">375</a></li>
+
+<li>Vigil, Francisco de Paula, director of National Library, Lima, iii. <a href="#Page_375">375</a>;
+  his views respecting the Papacy, <a href="#Page_376">376</a></li>
+
+<li>Vine disease in Madeira, particulars of the, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_75">75</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Vishnu, Indian Divinity, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_429">429</a></li>
+
+<li>Visscher van Gaasbeek, assistant resident, Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_252">252</a></li>
+
+<li>Vinhatico (<i>Persea indica</i>), at Madeira, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_65">65</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Visanili Katail</i> (poison oil), Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_401">401</a></li>
+
+<li>Vriese, de, director of Botanical Garden, Leyden, his travels in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Vrij, chemist, resident in Java, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_246">246</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_248">248</a>
+<!--554.png--><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_542" id="Page_542">542</a></span></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">W</li>
+
+<li>War in Chile, iii. <a href="#Page_305">305</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Wax-berry, shrub, Cape Colony, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Wagner, Dr. Moritz, his contour map of Isthmus of Panama, iii. <a href="#Page_434">434</a></li>
+
+<li>Waiiria, Lake of, Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li>
+
+<li>Waikato River, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>-<a href="#Page_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Wakka, New Zealand canoe, iii. <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li>
+
+<li>Walloby (Kangaroo rat), Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Wall reefs, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_556">556</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_558">558</a></li>
+
+<li>Wandering sand-hills. See <i>Medanos</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Wangs, or Kings of the Tai-pings, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_535">535</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_537">537</a></li>
+
+<li>Waves, mode of measuring their height, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_191">191</a>;
+  height in Chinese sea, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_544">544</a></li>
+
+<li>Weapons of the Nicobar aborigines, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_121">121</a></li>
+
+<li>Weddahs, wild native race of Ceylon, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_358">358</a></li>
+
+<li>Wellington Province, New Zealand, iii. <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Whale fishery off St. Paul Island, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_288">288</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_319">319</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_321">321</a>;
+  off Puynipet, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_554">554</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_579">579</a>;
+  off Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Whampoa, ship purveyor, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_168">168</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Whari, or New Zealand hut, iii. <a href="#Page_161">161</a>-<a href="#Page_163">163</a></li>
+
+<li>White colonists, Island of Puynipet, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_561">561</a></li>
+
+<li>Whittle's Rock, Simon's Bay, Cape Colony, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Wiener, G., Austrian Consul at Hong-kong, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_378">378</a></li>
+
+<li>Wild Banana. See <i>Musa Textilis</i>.</li>
+
+<li>Will's Harbour. <i>See</i> Papeete.</li>
+
+<li>Williamson, J., Superintendent of Auckland Province, iii. <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Wine cultivation of Madeira, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_76">76</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_79">79</a>;
+  of Cape Colony, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_256">256</a>;
+  of Australia, iii. <a href="#Page_21">21</a>-<a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Winnes, Dr. Ph., Missionary at Hong-kong, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Wiremu Kingi, chief of New Zealand insurgents, iii. <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Wong-Fun, Physician in Macao, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_406">406</a></li>
+
+<li>Worcester, Cape Colony, its charming site, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_223">223</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li>Wuang-po, canal of, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_479">479</a></li>
+
+<li>Wulongong, harbour of, New South Wales, iii. <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;
+  rencontre with natives, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>;
+  Walloby hunt, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>;
+  nocturnal adventures among the hills of, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>-<a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Wusung River, at Shanghai, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_410">410</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_414">414</a>, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_479">479</a></li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">Y</li>
+
+<li>Yak-tien, Chinese drug stone, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_437">437</a></li>
+
+<li>Yam, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_102">102</a>; at Tahiti, iii. <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Yang-tse-Kiang, arrival off, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_410">410</a>;
+  navigation of, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_410">410</a>-<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_412">412</a></li>
+
+<li>Yaws (<i>Framb&oelig;sia</i>), prevalence of, in Puynipet Island, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_574">574</a></li>
+
+<li>Yeh, late Governor of Canton, ii. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_383">383</a>;
+  his cruelty to the Tai-pings, <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38462/38462-h/38462-h.htm#Page_526">526</a></li>
+
+<li>Yellow fever, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_158">158</a>, iii. <a href="#Page_372">372</a></li>
+
+<li>Yo-stone. <i>See</i> Nephrite.</li>
+
+<li class="center" style="padding: 2em 0 1em 0;">Z</li>
+
+<li>Zodiacal light, i. <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38456/38456-h/38456-h.htm#Page_480">480</a></li>
+
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+<!--555.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_543" id="Page_543">543</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="ERRATA" id="ERRATA"></a>ERRATA.</h2>
+
+<h3 style="padding-top: 1em;">VOL. I.</h3>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcapac">PAGE</span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcapac">LINE</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">vii.</td><td align="left">1 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Hardinger <i>read</i> Haidinger</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">viii.</td><td align="left">3 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> minerals <i>read</i> mammalia</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxvi.</td><td align="left">6 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Saugar <i>read</i> Sangar</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxvii.</td><td align="left">10 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Tama <i>read</i> Jama</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">9 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Saka <i>read</i> Saku</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxix.</td><td align="left">12 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> sheet of water <i>read</i> pool of lava</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxx.</td><td align="left">10 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> isolated Vaihu of the <i>read</i> isolated Vaihu <i>or</i> Easter Island</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxxi.</td><td align="left">10 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> schists of lava <i>read</i> sheets <i>or</i> flows of lava</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxxv.</td><td align="left">17 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> internally of a matted texture <i>read</i> within the holes of a melted glassy surface</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">2 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Gacal <i>read</i> Jakal</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxxvi.</td><td align="left">last line, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Rosotlan <i>read</i> Bosotlan</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxxvii.</td><td align="left">6 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Posto de Quindici <i>read</i> Passo de Quindiu</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxxviii.</td><td align="left">9 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Ausango <i>read</i> Ansango</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxxviii.</td><td align="left">5 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> unlike <i>read</i> like</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">last line, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Pullo <i>read</i> Puela</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xxxix.</td><td align="left">8 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> veins <i>read</i> grains</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">8 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Weise <i>read</i> Wisse</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">6 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> trachytes of Hungary <i>read</i> trachytes out of Hungary</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xlii.</td><td align="left">5 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> 18° 15&#8242; <i>read</i> 18° 25&#8242;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xliii.</td><td align="left">12 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Exogira contoni <i>read</i> Exogyra Couloni</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">xliv.</td><td align="left">1 from top, or Yntales <i>has to be omitted entirely</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">5 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> La Cruz <i>read</i> La Cruz Olmedella</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">1.</td><td align="left">2 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> crooked <i>read</i> oblique</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">115</td><td align="left">6 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> 30° 50&#8242; <i>read</i> 33° 50&#8242;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">474</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> prediluvian period <i>read</i> period (before the flood extended so far)</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<h3 style="padding-top: 1em;">VOL. II.</h3>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcapac">PAGE</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">42</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> mania <i>read</i> maina bird (Graculus)</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">102</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Jakopha <i>read</i> Jatropha</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">135</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> lovely <i>read</i> lonely</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">143</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Turiah <i>read</i> Bukit Timah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">156</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Tschni-tschni <i>read</i> Tschin-tschin</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">163</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Carl <i>read</i> Windsor Earl</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">219</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> usnioides <i>read</i> usneoïdes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">242</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Phlippan <i>read</i> Phlippau</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">262</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> room <i>read</i> court yard</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">296</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Tbanac <i>read</i> Ybanac</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">319</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Bisayx <i>read</i> Bisaya</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">343</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> aficimado <i>read</i> aficiado</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">350</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Girandier <i>read</i> Giraudier</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">355</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Praya Granite <i>read</i> Praya Grande</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">355</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> To-stone <i>read</i> Yo-stone</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">364</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Funan <i>read</i> Yunan</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">366</td><td align="left"><i>read</i> preparing Indian-ink from</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">394</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Russian <i>read</i> Prussian</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">401</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> "lines" <i>read</i> "lions"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">411</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> become involved <i>read</i> escaped being involved</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">416</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Main-tze <i>read</i> Mian-tze</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">416</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Long-Sah <i>read</i> Long-Fah</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">471</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> been <i>read</i> had brought him</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">482</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> medical <i>read</i> philosophical</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">498</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Shoo-kiu <i>read</i> Shoo-kin</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">508</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> invisible <i>read</i> illimitable</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">516</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> China <i>read</i> India</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">518</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> limitata <i>read</i> limbata</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">547</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Dkinawasmia <i>read</i> Dkinawasima</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">553</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Metetenai <i>read</i> Metelenian</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">575</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Metelemia <i>read</i> Metelenian</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">575</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Awnaks <i>read</i> Awuaks</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">585</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Nálan <i>read</i> Ualán</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">596</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Senville <i>read</i> Surville</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<!--556.png--><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_544" id="Page_544">544</a></span></p>
+
+<h3 style="padding-top: 1em;">VOL. III.</h3>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left"><span class="smcapac">PAGE</span></td><td align="left"><span class="smcapac">LINE</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">1 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Cotton <i>read</i> Cotta</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">29</td><td align="left">8 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> son-in-law <i>read</i> brother-in-law</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">33</td><td align="left">9 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Augos <i>read</i> Angas</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">43</td><td align="left">14 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> stone-fields <i>read</i> coal-fields</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">58</td><td align="left">14 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Cool-river <i>read</i> Cook-river</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">177</td><td align="left">8 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> England <i>read</i> island</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">186</td><td align="left">11 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Thorold <i>read</i> Mould</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">191</td><td align="left"><i>for</i> Pakaivau <i>read</i> Pakawau</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">232</td><td align="left">11 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> reception-room <i>read</i> reception-court</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">243</td><td align="left">1 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> (pomegranates) <i>read</i> (carica papayi)</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">244</td><td align="left">3 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Tacea <i>read</i> Tacca</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">245</td><td align="left">4 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> spandias <i>read</i> spondias</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">279</td><td align="left">5 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> 118 <i>read</i> 48 days</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">299</td><td align="left">10 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Sillis <i>read</i> Gillis</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">308</td><td align="left">7 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Ferro Canil <i>read</i> Carril</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">338</td><td align="left">16 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> the <i>read</i> a</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">351</td><td align="left">16 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> gama <i>read</i> garua</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">389</td><td align="left">19 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Accordingly our <i>read</i> Formerly the</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">407</td><td align="left">6 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Cocani <i>read</i> Cocain</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">7, 11, &amp; 21&mdash;<i>for</i> Cocani <i>read</i> Cocain</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">3, 8, &amp; 13 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Cocani <i>read</i> Cocain</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">408</td><td align="left">3, 6, &amp; 21 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> cocani <i>read</i> cocain</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">410</td><td align="left">8 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Hasakael <i>read</i> Hasskarl</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">417</td><td align="left">12 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> centner <i>read</i> quintal</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">418</td><td align="left">10 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Huanchoco <i>read</i> Huanchaco</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">5 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> this hitherto <i>read</i> a hitherto</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">419</td><td align="left">3 &amp; 10 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Lambajique <i>read</i> Lambajeque</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">2 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> San Salvadore <i>read</i> San Salvador</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">420</td><td align="left">9 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Criomys <i>read</i> Eriomys</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">6 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Chirãr <i>read</i> Chirar</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">422</td><td align="left">12 from top, <i>read</i> it rose from 65° to 76° Fahr.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">11 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Taboquille <i>read</i> Taboquilla</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">428</td><td align="left">11 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> Le Breton <i>read</i> Lebreton</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">430</td><td align="left">8 from top, &nbsp; <i>for</i> £200,000 to £1,300,000 <i>read</i> £200,000 to £300,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left">9 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> an hour or two <i>read</i> a few hours</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">435</td><td align="left">11 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> facts <i>read</i> specimens</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">444</td><td align="left">5 from bottom, &nbsp; <i>for</i> however <i>read</i> moreover</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+<div><a name="Changes" id="Changes"></a></div>
+<h2 style="padding-top: 1em;">List Of Corrections</h2>
+
+<p>Transcriber's Note: Blank pages have been deleted. All of the footnotes
+have been moved. Some illustrations may have been moved. We have rendered
+consistent on a per-word-pair basis the hyphenation or spacing of such
+pairs when repeated in the same grammatical context. We have corrected
+inconsistencies in the application of accents to the same word when
+repeated in the same context. Paragraph formatting has been made
+consistent. The publisher's inadvertent omissions of important punctuation
+have been corrected. Some wide tables have been re-formatted to narrower
+equivalents with some words replaced with commonly known abbreviations and
+possibly a key. Some ditto marks have been replaced with the words
+represented.</p>
+
+<p>Other detected publisher's errors were corrected as listed below. The
+page number is that of the source publication but it applies in this
+reproduction except for footnotes since they have been moved. An asterisk
+after the page number indicates that the correction was specified by the
+publisher.</p>
+
+<pre>
+Page          Correction
+
+  2 * Political Economy. Stuttgart, 1840. (J. C. Cotton[Cotta].)
+ 24   being much more extensively dealt in in[delete 2nd in] European
+ 29 * Mr. Edward Hill, a son-in-law[brother-in-law] of
+ 32   according to all unbiassed[unbiased] observers,
+ 33 * among the natives of the north. M. Augos[Angas],
+ 43 * Hunter River and the Newcastle stone-fields[coal-fields],
+ 58 * thence over the Cool[Cook]-River
+ 96   by the numerous streams and creaks[creeks]
+111 * fruit of Tupa-kihi (<i>Coriaria Samentosa[Sarmentosa]</i>).
+120   settlements adjoining Fovean's[Foveau]Straits
+172   Commodore Von Wüllerstorff[Wüllerstorf] consented on condition
+177 * this little-explored England[island], we avail
+186 * put at my disposal by Colonel Thorold[Mould]
+191 * Pakaivau[Pakawau] give ground for anticipating that
+231   had already made the the[del 2nd the] circuit
+231 * In the reception-room[court] a perfect mountain
+241 * Pusenaura, Papara, Papuriri[Papeuriri],
+243 * (pine-apples), papayas (pomegranates?)[(carica papayi)],
+244 * VI. Pia (<i>Tacea[Tacca] pinnatifida</i>),
+245 * the <i>pandanus</i> fruit, the <i>spandias[spondias] dulcis</i>
+263   good officers[offices] of the British Government
+269   details repecting[respecting] them.
+279 * in 118[48] days, and although
+282   nothing recals[recalls] that singular national aboriginal type,
+293   For this purpose Commodore von Wüllerstoff[Wüllerstorf]
+299 * traveller Sillis[Gillis], who for many years
+300   lodged, and clothed gratuituously[gratuitously],
+306   the downfal[downfall] of the existing Government
+308 * (Ferro Canil[Carril] del Sur)
+321   unhappy case. Commodore Wüllerstorff[Wüllerstorf],
+338 * the[a] little boat made its appearance
+351 * a fine penetrating dew (<i>gama[garua]</i>),
+372   "<i>Los ninos[niños] se crian en la Calle!</i>"
+380   Manuel Fuentes' valuable "Estadestica[Estadistica] General de Lima
+389 * Accordingly our[Formerly the] ride to Chorillos,
+395   we passed the beautifully situate[situated] village
+407 * in such cases, the name Cocani[Cocain]
+407 * Cocani[Cocain] is precipitated in colourless inodorous
+407 * Cocani[Cocain] completely neutralizes acids,
+407 * nature and properties of cocani[cocain]. M. Wöhler,
+410 * respecting which Hasakael[Hasskarl] has observed
+417 * amount to from 8 to 10 dollars per centner[quintal].
+418 * reached Huanchoco[Huanchaco], the principal
+418 * me a small flask of this[a] hitherto little-known
+419 * de Lambajique[Lambajeque] in the department of Chola.
+419 * miles north of Lambajique[Lambajeque] lies the Indian
+419 * Central American State of San Salvadore[Salvador]
+420 * chinchilla fur (<i>Criomys[Eriomys] Chinchilla</i>),
+420 * city from the river Chir&#257r[Chirar],
+422 * it was as high as[it rose from] 65° to 70°[76°] Fahr.
+422 * with the adjacent islet of Taboquille[Taboquilla],
+428 * By Dr. Le Breton[Lebreton], a French physician
+430 * the Company at from £200,000 to £1,300,000[£300,000].
+430 * hour or two[a few hours] a journey which often occupied
+435 * geological and botanical facts[specimens]
+444 * However[Moreover], the impression made by the
+454   more extensive mementoes[mementos] of Roman architecture
+496   utility of pushing on [to] the dépôt
+519   Algesiras[Algeziras], i. 40
+522   Campbeltown[Cambelton], New South Wales, excursion to
+524   Curaré, the Indian prison[poison],
+524   Corróborry[Coróborry], dance of the Australian aborigines,
+529   Joss-ticks[Joss-sticks], ii. 341
+529   Illawarra[Illawara] District, New South Wales,
+532   Metelenien[Metelenian], harbour of, in Puynipet island,
+533   Director of the Botannical[Botanical] Garden
+535   Papacura[Papakura], plains of, New Zealand, iii. 170
+</pre>
+
+<div style="padding-top: 1em;"><a href="#Start">Start of text.</a></div>
+
+<hr class="ChapterTopRule" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of the Circumnavigation of
+the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III, by Karl Ritter von Scherzer
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the
+Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III, by Karl Ritter von Scherzer
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III
+       (Commodore B. Von Wullerstorf-Urbair,) Undertaken by Order
+       of the Imperial Government in the Years 1857, 1858, & 1859,
+       Under the Immediate Auspices of His I. and R. Highness the
+       Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, Commander-In-Chief of the
+       Austrian Navy.
+
+Author: Karl Ritter von Scherzer
+
+Release Date: January 3, 2012 [EBook #38478]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AUSTRIAN FRIGATE NOVARA, VOL III ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Thorsten Kontowski, Henry Gardiner and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+(This file made from scans of public domain material at
+Austrian Literature Online.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been replicated
+faithfully except as shown in the List Of Corrections at the end of the
+text. Words in italics are indicated like _this_. Superscripts are
+indicated like this: S^ta Maria. Footnotes are located near the end of
+the chapters. [oe] represents the oe ligature. [)u] is a 'u' marked with a
+breve.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+                               NARRATIVE
+
+                                 OF THE
+
+                      Circumnavigation of the Globe
+
+                        BY THE AUSTRIAN FRIGATE
+
+                                 NOVARA,
+
+                (COMMODORE B. VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,)
+
+           _Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government_,
+
+                   IN THE YEARS 1857, 1858, & 1859,
+
+          UNDER THE IMMEDIATE AUSPICES OF HIS I. AND R. HIGHNESS
+
+                  THE ARCHDUKE FERDINAND MAXIMILIAN,
+
+              COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE AUSTRIAN NAVY.
+
+                                   BY
+
+                           DR. KARL SCHERZER,
+
+  MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION, AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA," ETC.
+
+                                VOL. III.
+
+
+                             [Illustration]
+
+                                LONDON:
+                       SAUNDERS, OTLEY, AND CO.,
+                   66, BROOK STREET, HANOVER SQUARE.
+
+                                 1863.
+
+                [THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.]
+
+
+                     JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.
+
+
+
+
+                                CONTENTS.
+
+                                                                      PAGE
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+                                 SYDNEY.
+
+    The politico-economical importance to England of her colonies.--
+    Extraordinary growth of Sydney.--Public buildings.--Expeditions
+    of discovery into the interior of Australia.--Scientific
+    endeavours in Sydney.--Macleay's Seat at Elizabeth Bay.--Sir
+    Daniel Cooper.--Rickety Dick.--Monument to La Perouse at Botany
+    Bay.--The Botanical Garden.--Journey by rail to Campbelton.--
+    Camden Park.--German emigrants.--Wine cultivation in Australia.
+    Odd Fellows' Lodge at Campbelton.--Appin.--Wulongong.--Mr.
+    Hill.--The Aborigines.--Kangaroo hunting.--Coal mines in the
+    Keira range.--An adventure in the woods.--Return to Sydney.--The
+    Australian club.--Excursion up Hunter River as far as Ash
+    Island.--"Nuggets."--The _Novara_ in the dry dock at Cockatoo
+    Island.--Reformation among the prisoners in the colony.--
+    Serenade by the Germans in Sydney, in honour of the expedition.--
+    Ball on board the frigate.--Political life in Sydney.--Excursion
+    for craniological purposes to Cook-river Bay, and Long Bay.--
+    Intercourse with natives.--Wool growing.--Attempts to introduce
+    the Llama and Alpaca from Bolivia.--The gold-fields of the
+    colony of New South Wales.--Is Australia the youngest or oldest
+    part of the globe?--The convict-system and transportation as a
+    punishment.--Departure from Sydney.--Barrier Island.--Arrival at
+    Huraka Gulf, New Zealand.                                            1
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XIX.
+
+                                AUCKLAND.
+
+    Request preferred by the Colonial Government to have the
+    coal-fields of the Drury District thoroughly examined by the
+    geologists of the _Novara_.--Geographical remarks concerning New
+    Zealand.--Auckland.--The Aborigines or Maori.--A Mass meeting.--
+    Maori legends.--Manners and customs of the Aborigines.--The
+    Meri-Meri.--Most important of the vegetable esculents of the
+    Aborigines before the arrival of the Europeans.--Dr. Thomson's
+    anthropological investigations.--Maori proverbs and poetry.--The
+    present war and its origin.--The Maori king.--Decay of the
+    native population and its supposed causes.--Advantages held out
+    by New Zealand to European emigration.--Excursion to the
+    Waiatarna valley.--Maori village of Oraki.--Kauri forests in the
+    Manukau range.--Mr. Smith's farm in Titarangi.--St. John's
+    College.--Intellectual activity in Auckland.--New Zealand silk.--
+    Excursion to the coal-fields of the Drury and Hunua Districts.--
+    New Year's Eve at the Antipodes.--Dr. Hochstetter remains in New
+    Zealand.--The Catholic mission in Auckland.--Two Maories take
+    service as seamen on board the _Novara_.--Departure.--The
+    results of the explorations of the geologist during his stay at
+    the island.--Crossing the meridian of 180 deg. from West to East.--
+    The same day reckoned twice.--The sight of the islands of Tahiti
+    and Eimeo.--Arrival in the harbour of Papeete.                      93
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XX.
+
+                                TAHITI.
+
+    State of the island at the close of last century.--The London
+    Missionary Society and its emissaries.--Great mortality among
+    the native population.--First arrival of Catholic Priests in
+    Oceania.--French Protectorate and its consequences.--The
+    Tahitian Parliament and Tahitian debaters.--William Howe.--Adam
+    Kulczycki.--Scientific aims and achievements.--The Catholic
+    mission.--_Pre Catalan_ and native dances.--Prisoners of war
+    from New Caledonia.--Point Venus.--Guava-fields.--The fort of
+    Fautaua.--Lake Waiiria.--Popular _Fete_ at Faaa.--Ball given by
+    the Governor.--Queen Pomare.--Geographical notes on Tahiti and
+    Eimeo.--Climate.--Vegetation.--The Kawa root, and the
+    intoxicating drink produced from it.--Great expense of the
+    French Stations in Oceania.--Projects of reform.--Results of
+    English and French colonization.--Two Convicts.--Departure.--The
+    Whaler _Emily Morgan_.--Attempt to fix the zero point of
+    magnetic declination.--"Colique vegetale."--A victim.--Pitcairn
+    Island.--A fire-side tale of the tropical world.--An accident
+    without ill results.--Humboldt's Current.--Arrival at
+    Valparaiso.                                                        199
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXI.
+
+                              VALPARAISO.
+
+    Importance of Chile for German emigration.--First impressions of
+    Valparaiso.--Stroll through the city.--Commercial relations of
+    Chile with Australia and California.--Quebrada de Juan Gomez.--
+    The roadstead.--The Old Quarter and Fort Rosario.--Cerro Algre.--
+    Fire Companies.--Abadic's nursery-garden.--Campo Santo.--The
+    German community and its club.--A compatriot festival in honour
+    of the _Novara_.--Journey to Santiago de Chile.--University.--
+    National Museum.--Observatory.--Industrial and agricultural
+    schools.--Professor Don Ignacio Domey Ko.--Audience of the
+    President of the Republic.--Don Manuel Montt and his political
+    opponents.--Family life in Santiago.--Excursion trip on the
+    southern railroad.--Maipu Bridge.--Melepilla.--The Hacienda of
+    Las Esmeraldas.--Chilean hospitality.--Return to Valparaiso.--
+    Quillota.--The German colony in Valdivia.--Colonization in the
+    Straits of Magellan.--Ball at the Austrian Consul-general's in
+    honour of the _Novara_.--Extraordinary voyage of a damaged
+    ship.--Departure of the _Novara_.--Voyage round Cape Horn.--The
+    Falkland Islands.--The French corvette _Eurydice_.--The Sargasso
+    sea.--Encounter with a merchant-ship in the open ocean.--Hopes
+    disappointed and curiosity excited.--Passage through the Azores
+    channel.--A vexatious calm.                                        280
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XXII.
+
+   AN OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM VALPARAISO TO GIBRALTAR, VIA THE ISTHMUS OF
+                                PANAMA.
+
+    Departure from Valparaiso.--Coquimbo.--Caldera.--Cobija.--
+    Iquique.--Manufacture of saltpetre.--Arica.--Port d'Islay.--
+    _Medanos_, or wandering sand-hills.--Chola.--Pisco.--The Chincha
+    or Guano Islands.--Remarks respecting the Guano or Huanu beds.--
+    Callao.--Lima.--Carrion crows, the principal street-scavengers.--
+    Churches and Monasteries.--Hospitals.--Charitable institutions.--
+    Medical College.--National Library.--Padre Vigil.--National
+    Museum.--The Central Normal School.--Great lack of intellectual
+    energy.--Ruins of Cajamarquilla.--Chorillos.--Temple to the Sun
+    at Pachacamac.--River Rimac.--Amancaes.--The new prison.--
+    Bull-fights.--State of society in Peru.--The _Coca_ plant, and
+    the latest scientific examination respecting its peculiar
+    properties.--The _China_, or Peruvian-bark tree.--Departure from
+    Lima.--Lambajeque.--Indian village of Iting.--Paita.--Island of
+    La Plata.--Taboga Island.--Impression made by the intelligence
+    of Humboldt's death.--Panama.--"Opposition" Line.--Immense
+    traffic.--The Railway across the Isthmus.--Aspinwall.--
+    Carthagena.--St. Thomas.--Voyage to Europe on board the R.M.S.
+    _Magdalena_.--Falmouth.--Southampton.--London.--Rejoin the
+    _Novara_ at sea.--Arrival at Gibraltar.                            337
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+                       FROM GIBRALTAR TO TRIESTE.
+
+    First circumstantial details of the War of 1859.--Alterations in
+    Gibraltar since our previous visit.--Science and Warfare.--
+    Voyage through the Mediterranean.--Messina.--The _Novara_ taken
+    in tow by the War-steamer _Lucia_.--Gravosa.--Ragusa.--Arrival
+    of H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian at Gravosa.--
+    Presentation of the Staff.--Banquet on board the screw-corvette
+    _Dandolo_.--Pola.--Roman Amphitheatre.--Porta Aurea.--Triumphal
+    return to Trieste.--Retrospect of the achievements and general
+    scientific results of the Expedition.--Concluding Remarks.         449
+
+
+                       APPENDIX--Vol. ii       461
+
+
+                       APPENDIX--Vol. iii      494
+
+
+                       INDEX                   519
+
+
+                       ERRATA                  543
+
+
+
+
+                        LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+                               VOL. III.
+
+
+                                                       PAGE
+
+              1. Denizens of an Australian Forest         1
+
+              2. Maori                                   93
+
+              3. Native Fete to the Governor            199
+
+              4. The Lasso                              280
+
+              5. Station on the Panama Railway          337
+
+              6. The Austrian Eagle                     449
+
+
+           [Illustration: Denizens of an Australian Forest]
+
+
+
+
+                                 XVIII.
+
+                                 Sydney.
+
+              Stay From 5th November To 7th December, 1858.
+
+    The politico-economical importance to England of her colonies.--
+    Extraordinary growth of Sydney.--Public buildings.--Expeditions
+    of discovery into the interior of Australia.--Scientific
+    endeavours in Sydney.--Macleay's Seat at Elizabeth Bay.--Sir
+    Daniel Cooper.--Rickety Dick.--Monument to La Perouse at Botany
+    Bay.--The Botanical Garden.--Journey by rail to Campbelton.--
+    Camden Park.--German emigrants.--Wine cultivation in Australia.--
+    Odd Fellows' Lodge at Campbelton.--Appin.--Wulongong.--Mr.
+    Hill.--The aborigines.--Kangaroo hunting.--Coal mines in the
+    Keira range.--An adventure in the woods.--Return to Sydney.--The
+    Australian club.--Excursion up Hunter River as far as Ash
+    Island,--"Nuggets."--The _Novara_ in the dry dock at Cockatoo
+    Island.--Reformation among the prisoners in the colony.--
+    Serenade by the Germans in Sydney, in honour of the expedition.--
+    Ball on board the frigate.--Political life in Sydney.--Excursion
+    for craniological purposes to Cook-river Bay, and Long Bay.--
+    Intercourse with natives.--Wool growing.--Attempts to introduce
+    the Llama and Alpaca from Bolivia.--The gold-fields of the
+    colony of New South Wales.--Is Australia the youngest or oldest
+    part of the globe?--The convict-system and transportation as a
+    punishment.--Departure from Sydney.--Barrier Island.--Arrival at
+    Huraka Gulf, New Zealand.
+
+
+Whoever wishes to form an accurate idea of the power and might of the
+British nation, and is desirous to discover the sources of the
+all-important influence the "island race" exercise over the destinies of
+humanity, should visit, not England, but her colonies in America, Africa,
+Asia, and Australia. In these he will see in full and beneficial
+operation, that system which one of the greatest of German political
+economists, the ingenious Fredrick List, recommended more than thirty
+years ago to the German Government, when he spoke of the serious detriment
+the Northern country sustained year after year by the emigration _en
+masse_ of skilled German labourers, and when he repeatedly urged to make
+agriculture under the tropics reciprocally beneficial to the manufacturing
+industry of the temperate zone.[1]
+
+England has comprehended better than Germany how to utilize the energies
+of such of her children as emigrate to distant quarters of the globe, and
+to make them subservient to her own advancement as well; she evinced the
+most anxious solicitude for these pioneers of progress, extended her
+protection to them, flung the aegis of her own power over their adopted
+home, regarding each new settlement as but an extension of the limit of
+her empire, as an enlargement of the sources whence she drew the materials
+for her industrial handicrafts, as a new market for her manufactures! In
+all parts of the inhabited earth English activity has thus displayed
+itself, busily engaged in supplying the demand for raw materials in her
+home market, by exchanging for them her own manufactures, till English
+ships have become the all but universal carriers of the commerce of the
+globe, while the English language has been adopted as the medium of
+intercommunication of all seafarers.
+
+Australia, or New Holland,[2] as it was originally termed by its first
+discoverers, proud of their nationality, furnishes of all the British
+colonies the most conspicuous and instructive example of this policy.
+England has not merely thrown open this immense continent to European
+civilization, peopled it with hundreds of thousands of her sons, and
+created a new market for herself and all navigating nations,--she has also
+in this colony furnished the solution of a psychological problem, namely,
+that it is by no means an innate natural propensity to do evil, but rather
+the force of circumstances which drives man to vice and crime, and that
+the diviner portion of his nature forthwith re-asserts itself, so soon as
+he is provided with another more favourable sphere of action, and a fair
+opportunity is offered to him of earning his livelihood in an honourable,
+independent manner by the free, unshackled development of his mental and
+physical powers.
+
+Originally founded as a penal settlement for convicts sentenced to
+transportation for long periods of years, and in fact composed at first of
+such unpromising elements, this splendid country is at present one of the
+wealthiest and most important colonies of the British Crown, and close to
+that spot where, on 28th January, 1788, 850 criminals were landed, there
+to take up their involuntary abode, there now rises in one of the numerous
+coves of the splendidly situate Bay of Port Jackson, a city of such
+magnificence, so large and so beautiful, that it has been called the
+"Queen of the South," or even, with more enthusiasm than accuracy, "Little
+London." The population of the city and environs is estimated at 93,000,
+that of this single colony at 350,000, while its trade has increased to
+such an extent that it keeps employed 1000 ships and 18,000 men, the value
+of exports of raw, and import of manufactured products, amounting for this
+one port to upwards of L12,000,000 per annum. The discovery of abundant
+gold-fields in the adjacent colony of Victoria has undoubtedly materially
+contributed to this enormous expansion, and has perceptibly increased the
+immigration, but the development of the capabilities of the land itself
+has not been less steadily increasing, wherever the population have
+pursued the surer and more solid occupation of agriculture and
+cattle-rearing. The wool growth of Australia, which in 1820 was barely 50
+tons, has since then risen to nearly 25,000 tons, rivalling in bulk and
+quality that of the Cape, and rapidly becoming a dangerous competitor with
+those countries of Europe, whose wools have hitherto commanded their own
+terms in the English market.
+
+A continent of such immeasurable natural resources, with a climate,[3]
+especially on its southern coasts, remarkable for its mildness,
+equability, and salubrity, and a population so limited[4] in proportion to
+the extent of surface, was naturally an object of deep interest for the
+members of the _Novara_ Expedition. Accordingly during their stay of
+thirty-two days they set diligently to work, not only to enlarge their
+acquaintance with the scientific idiosyncrasies of this vast portion of
+the globe, but also to examine minutely the prospects it holds out to
+German commerce and German emigration, and to investigate the influence
+which has been exercised on the development of the colony by the system of
+transporting convicts thither. And it is not less significant of the high
+repute enjoyed by the Imperial Expedition in foreign countries, as
+honourable to its members, to record, that the then Governor-General of
+New South Wales, Sir William Denison, who has since been transferred to
+the much more important and lucrative post of Governor of the Madras
+Presidency, and who enjoys no slight reputation in scientific circles as a
+conchyliologist, expressed his anxious desire that the geologist of the
+_Novara_ should thoroughly examine the geological formation of the
+province of Auckland in New Zealand, and exerted himself vigorously to
+forward the accomplishment of this project.
+
+From the German residents in Sydney, as well as from all the officials and
+the inhabitants generally, we received the utmost assistance and most
+cordial co-operation in our various inquiries. The former received the
+Expedition with a most enthusiastic welcome, and it was truly gratifying
+to learn that some of the more keenly susceptible of home-influences had
+weeks before made the beach their favourite promenade, in order that they
+might be the first to see and welcome the long-expected German man-of-war
+at her arrival! The German newspaper "_Australische Zeitung_" (published
+by a native of Graetz, named Degotardi) of November 6th was quite filled
+with advertisements and notices relating to the _Novara_, and the
+festivities which had been prepared in her honour. Every member of the
+staff received a copy on board, so that before even we set foot on shore,
+we were apprized of the old German hospitality which awaited us on our
+arrival in this the fifth quarter of the globe. As, however, it was
+imperatively necessary to have the frigate taken to the Government dock,
+in order to repair the damages she sustained in the typhoon, the
+contemplated rejoicings had to stand over for the moment, till the
+_Novara_ could come forth in renewed splendour, and was fit to give a
+proper reception to the homage intended to be offered in her honour. These
+rather extensive repairs would require three weeks to complete, and after
+the first few days had passed in making and receiving official visits, as
+also in sight-seeing in the city and environs, the greater portion of
+their stay was employed by the scientific staff in excursions into the
+interior of the colony.
+
+Sydney at present has with its suburbs attained already to the dimensions
+of a European city. Only thirty years ago there stood but a few herdsmen's
+huts, where now the visitor beholds block after block of handsome stone
+private residences, or magnificent shops. There is not one article of
+luxury or comfort which cannot be supplied here. The chief building stone
+of the locality, sandstone, is chiefly used in the erection of churches,
+public buildings, and private dwellings. The Exchange, the Bank, the
+Houses of Assembly, Government House, &c., are stately buildings erected
+in a solid, massive style, and if "Hyde Park," a treeless meadow in the
+centre of the city, by no means answers to its sounding title, the Botanic
+Garden, on the other hand, the park known as "Lady McQuarrie's Chair,"
+"Kissing-Point," and "Lovers' Walk," form promenades as delightful as any
+capital of Europe can show in such immediate proximity. Sydney, moreover,
+is amply supplied with gas and water, as well as with every means of
+conveyance that can facilitate intercourse in a large town, such as
+omnibuses, cabs, steamers, &c.
+
+The theatres hitherto, whether as regards scenery or performance, have
+hardly exceeded mediocrity, but on the other hand educational
+establishments, public libraries, and hospitals, are of singular
+excellence. It is truly marvellous, and especially makes a profound
+impression upon the denizens of old Europe, to observe what handsome,
+imposing, costly buildings have been run up among this comparatively
+youthful community. The Sydney University, founded in 1851, is built in
+the Gothic style, at an expense of L50,000, and is maintained by an annual
+grant of L5000. It is far the finest memorial erected by European
+civilization in honour of science, throughout the southern hemisphere. Its
+internal organization is somewhat analogous with that of those of the
+mother country. All the high schools of Sydney accord academic degrees in
+the various branches, and by a Royal Patent of 27th of February, 1858,
+holders of honours are raised to the same rank with those in the other
+universities of the Empire. Although only secular education is provided by
+the University, there have been founded four colleges in immediate
+proximity with each other, for the four principal religious denominations
+in the colony, Anglican, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, and Methodist, in
+which the scholars may, without prejudice to the secular character[5] of
+the University proper, receive instruction in their various beliefs. The
+erection of these four adjuncts cost about L40,000 more. At the period of
+our visit there were only 38 scholars enrolled, whose instruction cost the
+state a rather round sum. A commencement had been made with a library, a
+museum of natural history, and a numismatic collection.
+
+Besides the University, there are in Sydney a considerable number of very
+important educational establishments and public schools. The most
+strenuous exertions are made to keep the public schools in a high state of
+efficiency, and there is scarcely a hamlet, where the rising generation
+may not be instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar, and
+geography.[6]
+
+An observatory is also in course of erection, but meteorological
+observations had long since been carried on in the principal places of the
+colony, and from the favourable natural conditions of the continent for
+conducting such investigations, the results must greatly contribute to our
+acquaintance with the laws regulating atmospherical phenomena.
+
+One very deserving institution dedicated to the noble object of awakening
+a sense of the beautiful, and furthering the interests of science, is the
+Australian Museum. All that this glorious country presents of interesting
+and useful in the three great divisions of nature is here being gradually
+classified in scientific order, and displayed in elegant cases in spacious
+handsome apartments, the whole thrown open to the public for amusement and
+instruction, free of cost. Already an excellent start has been made with
+valuable collections of conchylia and birds, as well as numerous
+ethnographical specimens and fossil remains. The management of the Museum
+has been confided to the most distinguished scientific men of the
+colony,[7] and owing to the deep interest taken by these gentlemen in this
+truly national undertaking, the sphere of its activity is likely ere long
+to be extended to scientific publications, the appearance of which will be
+doubly valuable and important in a country which presents so many
+different objects for investigation and elucidation.
+
+If, however, our knowledge of Australia and its black aboriginal tribes is
+as yet very scanty, it has not assuredly been due to any cold indifference
+on the part of the new settlers for the history of a country and a race of
+men who are rapidly disappearing from the face of the country. It is
+rather to be found in the physical conditions of the continent, and
+especially in the great scarcity of perennial springs. In fact, there is
+hardly any country, with the exception of Africa, the exploration of which
+has cost the lives of so many scientific travellers as this fifth quarter
+of the world. What manly devotion, ardour, and perseverance, characterize
+such names as Leichhardt, Oxley, Kennedy, Eyre, Mitchell, Cunningham,
+Strut, Babbage, Warburton, Stuart, Gregory, Selwyn, MacDonnell, &c.! And
+it may fill a German with honest pride, that one of his race has attained
+the pinnacle of scientific eminence here! The name of Leichhardt is the
+most popular and most highly honoured of the learned names in Australia.
+Repeatedly we heard him spoken of as the Australian Humboldt. Rendered all
+the more eager by the success of his first enterprise, and stimulated by
+the splendid Governmental reward of L10,000 for his last discoveries, the
+indefatigable explorer started from Sydney in 1848, on a second journey,
+in which he intended to examine Western Australia, by crossing from
+Moreton Bay overland, to the West Coast and Port Essington. This proved to
+be the close of his earthly career. All trace of the lamented traveller
+has been lost, and even the admirably equipped expedition sent out by the
+Colonial Government, in March, 1858, under the experienced conduct of Mr.
+Gregory, on the track of Leichhardt, spent long months in fruitless
+wandering, and returned without any more positive information as to the
+destiny of the sorely missed naturalist, except the conjecture that
+Leichhardt and his companions had fallen a victim not to the murderous
+hand of the natives, but to the inhospitable nature of the region they
+were traversing. They seemed to have left the Victoria at its junction
+with the Alice (where it was thought a trace of the travellers was
+discovered in some incisions made in the bark of some trees),[8] and then
+attempted, favoured by heavy storms and showers of rain, to get into the
+flat desert country on the north-west. As, however, the rain shortly
+afterwards ceased, the unfortunate travellers not merely ran short of
+water in prosecuting their dismal journey, but were prevented from
+returning, as the small quantity precipitated by a mere meteoric
+phenomenon would be exhausted in a few days, and it is not easy to suppose
+that such hardy, zealous, and experienced explorers would have failed to
+extricate themselves, had not their courage and physical powers been
+broken down and destroyed by privations of the most terrible nature.
+
+Despite the tragic fate of Leichhardt's expedition and those of other
+explorers,[9] new expeditions are continually being set on foot for
+exploring the unknown regions of Australia in every direction, and
+although by far the larger part of the information collected consists
+rather of ghastly recitals of misery and privation endured than positive
+scientific results,[10] yet some of the more recent ones, especially those
+of Stuart and Burke, have made also important discoveries in the
+interior; and in view of the impulse which the lamentable state of
+American politics threatens to impart to cotton-growing everywhere, the
+highly fertile banks of the Murray, which with a very little labour might
+be made navigable far into the interior, may at no distant period be
+covered with numerous cotton plantations.
+
+While the younger and more adventurous spirits enter with all their heart
+and soul upon these dangerous experiences of rude hardship, there is in
+the capital of the colony a not less marked scientific vitality, and the
+valuable libraries and private collections of the Governor-general, Sir
+Wm. Denison, Mr. W. Macleay, the botanist, Dr. George Bennett, physician
+and geologist,[11] Dr. Roberts, microscopist, Messrs. W. B. Clarke and
+Selwyn, geologists, as well as their various and valuable contributions to
+science, exercise a doubly important and beneficial influence upon a
+number of contiguous states so peculiarly organized as those of Australia,
+which, first penal settlements, and then gold-fields, seemed to have been
+deprived of all those favourable conditions, which elsewhere are usually
+supposed to be requisite for the development of intellectual and
+scientific activity.
+
+Much has also been done already in Australia for the diffusion of the
+principles of social economy and the diffusion of political and linguistic
+knowledge; and the historical writings of Dr. J. D. Lang,[12] and the
+philological works of Dr. Threlkeld, both men of high attainments and of
+similar zeal in promoting the welfare of their fellow-men, furnished us
+with profound information as to the political history of the country, as
+well as the original language of the aborigines.
+
+Since the appearance of the first ethnographic works of Count Strzelecki
+there has appeared little that is new respecting the origin, migration,
+and history of the black races of Australia, and what we have to say on
+this momentous topic, whether in the result of personal intercourse or of
+information derived from other sources, we shall reserve for the narrative
+of our excursion into the interior of the colony, and our foregathering
+with the primitive inhabitants of the back settlements.[13]
+
+Among the excursions in the immediate neighbourhood of Sydney we at once
+selected a visit to the well-known naturalist Mr. Macleay, who resides at
+a beautiful estate near Elizabeth Bay. In his beautiful garden one sees
+the most interesting plants of Australia side by side with splendid
+specimens from all other parts of the world. A stroll through the
+extensive grounds derives a double interest when in company with its
+highly-cultivated proprietor, and we are the more grateful for this good
+fortune, as the venerable old gentleman lives in strict seclusion.
+
+Another very interesting visit was that paid to Sir Daniel Cooper at his
+residence on Rose Bay (_Wullurah_).[14] Sir Daniel is of humble parentage,
+but fell heir to property which made him the wealthiest man in the colony,
+and which he now dispenses with the most noble and hospitable profusion.
+During the Crimean war he subscribed L1000 per annum towards defraying the
+costs. Lately he has been elected speaker of the Legislative Assembly,
+when he was knighted by her Majesty. His villa in Rose Bay, when
+completed, promised to be surpassed by few mansions of the English
+nobility in elegance and comfort.
+
+Close to the palatial residence of the wealthiest resident of Australia,
+and clad in a filthy woollen coat, with an old hat on his head, crouches
+Rickety Dick, a wretched crippled native, the sole survivor of his tribe,
+once the lord of all this country, who now stretches out his horny hand to
+receive charity. Rickety Dick, who can only talk Australian, lives under a
+bark thatch, and leads a mendicant life, and this not owing to downright
+destitution, but because such a lazy mode of existence suits him better
+than a residence within the walls of a Poor's House. He finds himself more
+comfortable here, and cannot bear to quit the soil on which he has passed
+the greater portion of his miserable existence. Sir Daniel lets this last
+scion of a decayed race want for nothing, and gratifies every wish that
+the poor half idiot can form.
+
+One excursion which no stranger omits to make is a ride to the monument
+erected to La Perouse at Botany Bay, a pretty good road to which passes
+through beautiful woods full of magnificent oaks, as also of _Eucalyptus_,
+or gum tree, so characteristic of Australia, _Casuarina_, or cabbage tree,
+_Xanthorrhea_, _Acacias_, and various descriptions of _Epacris_. The
+monument itself stands on an open cleared space, in what is known as
+"Frenchmen's Gardens" (because, according to tradition, the soldiers had
+raised a few vegetables here), and is a plain sandstone obelisk about 30
+feet high, standing on a pedestal and crowned with an iron globe, within
+an enclosure about 35 feet square, bounded by a parapet wall of from three
+to five feet high.
+
+The inscription, which is in French, and on the south side facing the sea,
+runs as follows:
+
+    A la Memoire de M. de La Perouse. Cette terre, qu'il visita en
+    1778, est la derniere d'ou il a fait parvenir de ses nouvelles.
+    Erige au nom de la France, par les soins de M. M. de
+    Bougainville et Ducampier commandant la Fregatte "La Thetis" et
+    la corvette "Esperance" en relache au port Jackson en 1825.
+
+On the north side is an English translation of the above, and on the west
+a French translation of the English inscription on the east side.
+"Foundation laid 1825. Completed 1828."
+
+Close by this simple monument, more interesting owing to the subsequent
+fate of the renowned French navigator than by its merits as a work of art,
+is Botany Tower, a sort of look-out for the whole coast-line. This
+octangular tower stands quite by itself, and commands a magnificent and
+extensive view over Botany Bay. To the N.W. one perceives a flagstaff of
+Banks's establishment, a pleasure resort of the Sydneyites, which, on
+account of its small zoological garden, is likewise of some scientific
+interest. S.E., on the opposite side of Mud Bay, is visible the point of
+land where Captain Cook, accompanied by Banks and Solander, first trod the
+soil of Australia. Among the sandstone rocks adjoining, a brass tablet,
+with a suitable inscription, commemorates this interesting fact.
+
+The botanical garden attracted very much of the attention of the
+scientific staff. It possesses, next to that of Buitenzorg (see vol. ii.
+p. 204), the largest and most valuable collection we saw throughout our
+voyage. In addition to its splendid specimens of _coniferae_ and the
+incomparable Dammara pine-tree; it also enjoys well-merited celebrity for
+its successful rivalry with that of Java in rare specimens of palms. The
+climate of Sydney is admirably adapted for experimenting on the
+cultivation of plants from the most various parts of the world; and while
+in one part of this garden we find the plants of every clime, which
+flourish here in great luxuriance, another portion is dedicated
+exclusively to the cultivation of Australian trees and canes. At the
+entrance stands a magnificent _Araucaria excelsa_, like a sentinel on
+guard over this singular vegetable world. A gigantic _Grevillea robusta_
+attracts the eye by the striking tint of its luxuriant orange-yellow
+blossoms, shining with indescribable charm through the dark green of the
+foliage. _Banksias_, _Casuarinas_, different species of _Callitris_,
+_Xanthorrhea_, _Proteaceae Eucalypti_, the beautiful _Telopea
+speciosissima_, the giant lily (_Doryanthes excelsa_), and many others
+indigenous to the Australian continent, such as never meet the European's
+gaze, or, at all events, only very rarely in forcing houses, here arrest
+the attention by their towering forms, their elegant foliage, and their
+grand proportions, as compared with their brethren of northern climes. One
+species of weeping willow (_Salex Babylonica_), which grows here in the
+utmost luxuriance, has a special historic interest, as it was a shoot from
+the well-known willow that overshadowed the grave of Bonaparte at St.
+Helena. Through the obliging attention of the superintendent of the
+garden, Mr. Charles Moore, who spared neither trouble nor pains to afford
+us all the assistance in his power, our collection of Australian flora is
+exceedingly plentiful and valuable. It consists not merely of a
+comprehensive collection of Australian seeds and useful woods, but also of
+some species of living plants, forwarded to Europe in what is known as
+Ward's chest. At the same time we were successful in procuring and
+sending, in accordance with his request, to Professor Rochleder, in
+Prague, a Fellow of the Imperial Academy of Science, some 50 or 60 lbs. of
+the raw _Epacris Grandiflora_, as also a small quantity of _Casuarina
+equisetifolia_, for the purpose of chemical experiments, especially with
+regard to the relations of chemistry with the geographical distribution of
+plants.
+
+At last, on 16th November, we were able to make out our long-projected
+excursion to Campbelton, 33 miles distant, over a tolerably good, usually
+somewhat flat, country, traversed by railroad in about two hours.
+
+On our arrival at this small but most industrious village we found,
+awaiting our arrival, our hospitable friend, Sir W. Macarthur, who took us
+to his estate adjoining, called Camden Park. Sir William belongs to one of
+the most distinguished families in the colony, and enjoys the double
+reputation of being at once the most important wine-grower of Australia,
+and of having the best wine in his cellar.
+
+We drove to our host's house through very pretty scenery, and thus had a
+fresh opportunity of satisfying ourselves of the strange inaccuracy of
+former travellers, who related that the leaves in Australia were of wood
+and the stems of iron, that the bees had no stings, the birds no wings,
+and hair instead of feathers, the flowers no fragrance, the birds no
+melody, and the trees, like so many Peter Schlemils, no shadow. Although
+Nature has been guilty of some few freaks both in Australia and in New
+Zealand, and has created some extraordinary animals, such, for example, as
+the duck-billed platypus (_ornithorrhynchus paradoxus_), the ant-eater,
+the kiwi, &c., these are but exceptions, and there are here but few
+differences to be remarked in either the animal or vegetable world, such
+as should distinguish it for extravagance beyond all other countries. In
+Australia there are birds that sing, and odoriferous trees and flowers in
+great profusion, and the forests, at those places whither the axe of the
+busy settler has not yet penetrated or imparted to it a park-like aspect,
+are as dense, as thickly clothed with underwood, and as difficult to make
+one's way through, as in any other quarter of the globe under a similar
+latitude.
+
+Close beside the elegant residence of Sir William are extensive vineyards,
+to superintend which he imported German vine-dressers from the Rheingau.
+Each of these families has his own hut, a plot of garden ground, and in
+addition to rations of milk, bread, and butter, receives L25 per annum
+wages. When these good folks heard that strangers, compatriots of theirs,
+were among them, with whom they could converse in their mother-tongue, a
+dozen or so at once assembled to bid us welcome. Most of these betrayed a
+certain amount of hesitation in expressing themselves in their own
+language, and, like the same class in Pennsylvania, whenever they were at
+a loss for a word supplied it by its English equivalent. There resulted
+from this a most comical jargon, sometimes most grotesque in its
+eccentricity, as, for instance, when, on our remarking to one of these
+vine-dressers who had been in Australia for ten years that he seemed to
+have quite forgotten his German, he replied, with an air of outraged
+national dignity, "Oh no! _wir_ keep it _immer_ in exercise."
+
+The entire number of Germans in New South Wales is estimated (in 1858) at
+7000. They are usually settled on the larger rivers, such as Hunter,
+Clarence, Brisbane rivers, where they have small farms on the alluvial
+soil, or are engaged in agriculture, or vine cultivation. Their industry,
+perseverance, and frugality soon make them independent and well-to-do. We
+were told of one poor peasant of the Rhenish districts, named
+Frauenfelder, who arrived here from Germany, in 1849, with twelve
+daughters, and settled on Clarence river as a vine-dresser. After ten
+years of unwearied activity he became a prosperous man, got all his
+daughters well married, and now owns one of the most flourishing
+settlements in the entire colony.[15] A German enjoys in Australia, after
+five years' residence, the same political rights as the English. After
+twelve months he becomes naturalized and may possess land; after three
+years he may vote; and after five years' residence he may become a member
+of Parliament. Should there be anything specially affecting German
+interests in the colony, they can at least influence one vote in
+Parliament. The reason why the number of Germans in Australia is yet so
+small is undoubtedly owing to the high price of land. The same quantity
+which can be purchased in the United States for one dollar costs L1 here,
+and this solely because the Colonial Government contracted a loan in
+former days with the wealthier colonists, for which they pledged the land,
+which was taken at L1 per acre; this has never been paid off, so that the
+mortgagee is virtually the proprietor of the soil, without Government
+being in a position to profit by its contract or get rid of its
+liabilities. It thus has become necessary for them to enhance the value of
+the land, and this seems to be the chief difficulty in the way of lowering
+the acreage price, to the manifest encouragement of emigration and the
+cultivation of the soil.
+
+Sir William conducted us, now on horseback, now on foot, now in his
+carriage, over his extensive domain, and did not fail to acquaint us with
+the details of everything that could be interesting or useful. Wine
+cultivation in Australia, though only first raised into importance in
+1838, has made such rapid strides, and has proved so profitable, that in
+no long time England, hitherto so deficient in wines, will be enabled
+through her colonies to vie with the choicest vintages of Europe; for
+those of Australia and the Cape are little inferior even now in body and
+_bouquet_ to those of Spain, and it is only the smallness of the quantity
+hitherto manufactured, and almost entirely reserved for private
+consumption, that has stood in the way of their being much more
+extensively dealt in European markets. The entire product of wine in 1858
+was 60,000 gallons, but the reason why the quantity is so limited is not
+in the unsuitability of the land devoted to it, but the great difficulty
+of procuring labour, and of getting it at the precise moment when it is
+most wanted. As often as the journals launch forth upon the discovery of
+some fresh gold-field, the field hands forthwith strike work, and make off
+to the "diggings." On such occasions many thousand men are suddenly
+smitten with the gold fever, and their ordinary avocations are at once
+abandoned. We saw on one occasion a number of half-finished houses, which
+had been left in that incomplete state by the thirst for gold of the
+labourers, who are omnipotent here. "There are no greater tyrants than the
+labourers of this country," was Sir William's pithy remark, as he looked
+sadly on their work, abandoned unfinished, and the half-cultivated fields
+around.
+
+Our host made us taste various descriptions of wine, which in every
+respect greatly resembled sherry, while a redder sort strongly reminded us
+of Muscat. Even in Australia, the grape has already been attacked by that
+mysterious disease which has done such mischief in various parts of
+Europe, and especially in Madeira, but its noxious effects have as yet
+been confined to a few species only. Much damage is occasionally done by a
+species of worm, for the extirpation of which boys are engaged at from
+1_s._ to 2_s._ per diem. The vintage in Australia usually begins in March
+and lasts till far on in April.
+
+We passed a short hour very agreeably in Sir William's study, which
+comprises a library full of valuable particulars as to the history of the
+country. At every moment the traveller from long-settled countries, feels
+an emotion of surprise at the numerous and costly collections of rare
+works and valuable cabinets of natural history he finds in a country where
+he might expect that the universal rush after earthly dross must render
+such pursuits valueless. The fact is, that in forming an estimate of the
+country he is almost certain to omit taking into account that, in addition
+to the convicts and gold-diggers, there have come out hither a
+considerable number of young men of the highest circles of English
+society, who, provided by Government with tracts of land for settling
+upon, are in hopes of more speedily attaining fortune and position than in
+England, where the younger sons of the aristocracy are in too many
+instances apt to lead a sauntering life of dependency. Such cadets of
+leading families have, since the commencement of the present century,
+settled in considerable numbers in various parts of Australia, and have
+introduced with them that taste for combined elegance and comfort, which
+the foreign traveller in that country has such reason to feel surprise at,
+as well as to be thankful for.
+
+After our visit to Camden Park we spent the rest of the day at Campbelton,
+making preparations to continue our excursion as far as Appin and
+Wulongong, in the district of Illawara. From Campbelton to Appin is a
+distance of 12 miles, by a tolerably wide level road, partly through
+cultivated farms, partly through forest scenery. We encountered but one
+vehicle the whole distance, containing a family dressed in their best, to
+accompany a body to the grave--probably some father or sister. "A funeral
+in the bush," said our driver to us with a somewhat serious face, as he
+called our attention to the cart moving on slowly through the stillness of
+the wood. In a simple little forest hut, whose inhabitants are engaged in
+avocations that necessarily imply the closest daily intimacy, the stroke
+of death must fall with redoubled severity, as he strikes down some of the
+dearest and best beloved.
+
+When we reached Appin the day was already too far spent to admit of our
+reaching Wulongong, the end of our journey, the same evening. Uninviting
+as was the filth of the little village ale-house where we alighted, we had
+to make the best of its accommodations, as it was the only inn in the
+place. The dialect which now saluted our ears unmistakeably proved that we
+were domiciled in an Irish house. The people were by no means poor, they
+possessed an extensive "run" near the hotel, but it is part of the
+character of Irish settlers to be superior to the virtues of cleanliness
+and order. Quite close at hand began the forest, a visit to which was
+rewarded by the capture of several species of birds peculiar to New South
+Wales, among others the laughing jack-ass (_Dacelo gigantea_) and the
+beautiful blue-black atlas bird (_Kitta holosericea_).
+
+The following morning we resumed our journey through lofty, dense, and
+magnificent forests, in which the vast trunks of gum trees imparted their
+special character to the scenery. One of the most beautiful points of view
+in this delightful drive was when we crossed Sir Thomas Mitchell's, or
+Broughton's, Pass, which has been cut through the gigantic rocks of a
+mountain-range at considerable expense and labour, presenting at every
+turn a fresh and more beautiful grouping of rock and mountain fringed with
+fir and gum, reminding us somewhat of the romantic savage solitudes of the
+Alps.
+
+On our way to the coast we passed but one solitary farm, consisting of a
+couple of wretched wooden huts, thatched with bark, standing on a clearing
+named Bargo, where the mail-boy on his way from Appin changes horses, and
+remains for a few hours over-night. We merely took some coffee, and were
+not a little surprised at finding it presented to us in a fashion in
+strong contrast with the rude exterior of this forest hut. Sheffield and
+Wedgwood wares in the bush, and English ships constructed of Australian
+timber--such is the secret of English political economy!
+
+Not far from Bargo we enter upon troublesome sand wastes, at one point of
+which the traveller enjoys a wonderfully extensive prospect over the
+Illawara lake, the Keira range, and the sea, especially if, as was our
+case, he is accompanied by intelligent _ciceroni_ acquainted with the
+country, otherwise he is likely to pass this little elevation, only a few
+paces from the road, little dreaming of the magnificent landscape which he
+is missing.
+
+As soon as we got to the coast we once more encountered fan-palms,
+tree-ferns, and other representatives of tropical vegetation, the last few
+hours of our road towards the little port lying through scenes of
+Eden-like loveliness. About 3 P.M. of the 18th November we reached
+Wulongong.
+
+We again fell in here with Sir William Macarthur, who had undertaken a
+very arduous ride through the forests around Wulongong for the purpose of
+collecting some tree-ferns, which he intended sending to England. Few
+nations have such a thorough appreciation of nature as the English, or
+exert themselves so unselfishly, by personal observation and indefatigable
+energy, to enlarge the acquaintance of mankind with natural history in all
+its different ramifications. Men in every grade of life take a pleasure in
+hunting out rare species of plants, animals, or minerals, in the remotest
+districts of the globe, which they transmit to their own country, or
+publish such observations respecting them as may make them available for
+science, handicraft-industry, or commerce. By these incidental voluntary
+contributions to the general stock, England now possesses scientific
+collections such as hardly any nation can hope to keep up short of an
+enormous expense. These endeavours, it is true, are considerably favoured
+and supported by the fact of British colonies being scattered over the
+entire earth, but even in this respect it must be conceded that it is
+through her own meritorious, unselfish policy that circumstances thus
+combine to aid her efforts in this peculiar direction.
+
+Wulongong is a hamlet consisting of a few streets, and its principal
+resources seem to be in the visits of the Sydneyites, who come hither for
+sea-bathing. Already the existence of several hotels, which, considering
+the size of the place, are unusually elegant and extensive, but at the
+same time extremely costly, shows that Wulongong must be rather
+extensively patronized by the inhabitants of the capital, with which it
+has regular communication by small steamers, making the voyage in a few
+hours. Unfortunately Wulongong has no convenient harbour, but only a small
+exposed roadstead, rendered barely safe for a few small vessels by a stone
+bulwark, so that in the event of rough weather the landing and embarkation
+of visitors is attended with much discomfort.
+
+We alighted at the Brighton Hotel, prettily situated on the sea-coast, and
+met here our newly-acquired Australian friend, Mr. Edward Hill, a
+brother-in-law of Sir D. Cooper's, who, with his usual kindness and
+forethought, had made all possible preparations for ensuring that our
+further flying visit to the Illawara district should be one of the most
+memorable episodes of our stay in the colony. Mr. Hill, an Australian by
+birth, may, through the peculiar circumstances of his life, his striking
+observations on and profound sympathy with the blacks, be considered one
+of those most profoundly acquainted with that remarkable race, whose
+idiom, as spoken in this district, he can converse in with the utmost
+fluency. For this gentleman's attention we were indebted not merely for
+repeated opportunities of intercourse with the natives, but also for the
+excitement, to us thoroughly novel, of a kangaroo-hunt.
+
+A number of natives were living in an improvised sort of settlement
+outside the town, and camped around the forest under low sheds of bark. At
+a little distance off Mr. Hill uttered a sharp, shrill whistle, which was
+immediately responded to from the forest. Presently two young natives made
+their appearance, and shook hands with Mr. Hill. An old man with grey hair
+remained cowering upon the ground without stirring. There were altogether
+four men, two women, and two children, all pretty well made, their skin of
+a black or dull brown hue, broad nostrils, and black crisp hair, which,
+however, had nothing woolly in its texture. One of the women carried a
+child, whose features and complexion were obviously the result of white
+parentage on one side. However, she did not seem, as is the case with
+other races that are proud of their colour, to be looked down upon on that
+account by her own race, who, so low is their standard of morality, rather
+consider it an honour for a black woman to bear a child to a white. Men
+and women alike showed on their skins the protuberant cicatrices of
+artificial incisions, two or three inches long, chiefly on the breast,
+arms, and back.
+
+All the male natives with whom we conversed had had the upper central
+teeth knocked out, such being one distinguishing mark of their having
+attained the dignity of manhood!
+
+The abundance of mustachio and beard of the Australian savages is a marked
+peculiarity, which none of their cognate races east or west have in common
+with them. We were also told that they value the beard as their highest
+ornament, and make it one of the great objects of their life to tend it.
+No man of their race dare marry or kill an emu till he can show a beard,
+to which also great virtue is attached in battle. None of these natives
+understand the use of the Boomerang.[16]
+
+The natives around Port Jackson and in the Illawara district have,
+generally speaking, little of the aboriginal about them, and their abject
+misery and addiction to drink make them pitiable and disgusting objects;
+for their present hopeless state is in great measure attributable to their
+contact with civilization, which has made them neither intelligent nor
+industrious. The natives, however, of the banks of the Murray, Clarence,
+and Brisbane rivers, though of the same race, are of a very different
+appearance. They keep up the habits of their ancestors, and seldom come in
+contact with civilization, and even then only with its pioneers, the
+squatters and shepherds. Among these the customs of circumcision and
+unlimited polygamy are universal, each man having as many wives as he can
+steal or support. Owing, however, to their nomad life, this system is
+practised to but a limited extent. Infanticide, especially of female
+children, is of very frequent occurrence. Abortion is also so frequently
+practised that they have a word (_Mibra_) to express it! On the other
+hand, we read in Count Strzelecki's valuable work that "the female natives
+after illicit commerce with a white man become barren for their own race,"
+which, according to all unbiased observers, is a complete delusion.
+
+In no part of Australia do the natives cultivate the soil. Nomad as is
+their mode of life, they live almost exclusively on the products of the
+chase, or of the deep, according as they live in the interior or on the
+coast. Lizards, snakes, and insects, and some few roots and resinous
+substances, form the delicacies of their primitive cookery.
+
+Their dwellings are either natural cavities in the rock, or a few pieces
+of bark fixed into the ground at either end, and arched upwards in the
+middle. Throughout New South Wales the custom prevails, when a native dies
+young, of burying him under a shallow mound of earth, only the elders
+possessing the privilege of being consumed with fire. In the latter case
+the corpse of the deceased, with his hunting and fishing implements, is
+placed on a pile of dry wood about three feet high, with his face towards
+the rising sun. This is covered by the surviving relatives with straw and
+wood, who then set fire to the funeral pyre. Some days later the ashes and
+calcined bones are collected and burnt. The name of the dead is never
+again pronounced, any individual of the same tribe, who may also happen to
+bear it, being compelled to exchange it for another.
+
+The prevalence of cannibalism is a well-established fact among the natives
+of the north. M. Angas, amongst other interesting particulars, mentioned
+one case, where a boy died in the vicinity of Moreton Bay, whose head and
+skin, according to the savage habits of the natives, were separated from
+the rest of his body and dried over a fire. The father and mother were
+both present and uttered loud cries. The heart, liver, and entrails were
+divided among the warriors, who carried away with them pieces stuck on
+their bone-pointed spears; while the upper part of the thigh (apparently
+the tit-bit) was roasted and eaten by the parents themselves! The skin,
+the skull, and the bones were, on the other hand, carefully packed up and
+taken away with them in their grass sacks. It is not unusual for a mother
+to devour her own child, that she may thereby regain the strength which
+the fruit of her womb has abstracted from her! When a warrior of a hostile
+tribe falls into their hands they celebrate his sacrifice with savage
+glee, by rubbing their bodies with the fat around their victim's kidneys,
+by which means they believe they strengthen their muscles and inspire
+their hearts with courage. In the southern parts of Australia the natives
+use human skulls as drinking cups, and one instance is on record where a
+portion of a human skeleton was habitually used by an entire race as a
+tool. Each woman has one of these bone calabashes, which she usually has
+hollowed-out and manufactured herself. In the tolerably comprehensive
+ethnographic collection of the Australian Museum we saw several examples
+of these hideous drinking vessels! With respect to the idea of a future
+life, or the immortality of the soul, the natives seem to have very
+contracted notions, principally confined to a superstitious dread of evil
+spirits, and to the very singular notion that after death they are
+converted into whites, and that the Englishmen who now people their
+hunting grounds are the spirits of their ancestors thus transformed!
+
+At various parts of the colony, especially among the outlying mountains
+and bare rocks adjoining Middle Harbour, Camp Cove, Point Piper, Mossman's
+Cove, Lang's Cove, &c., the eye is attracted by numbers of rude sculptures
+hewn in the stone, which usually represent terrestrial objects, such as
+kangaroos, emus, flying-squirrels, fish, tortoises, and, above all,
+numerous representations of natives performing the _Coroborry_. This is a
+sort of war-dance, in which those who participate usually paint their
+bodies with white lines, like a skeleton, and seen through the obscurity
+of night, leaping around a faint fire, have the appearance of a set of
+dead bodies dancing.
+
+If we ask any of the black men of the present generation the significance
+of these rock sculptures, they usually reply, in their broken English,
+"Black fellow make 'em long time ago," and on being pressed more
+particularly as to their age, they throw up their hands and faces, shut
+their eyes, and say, "Murrey, murrey, murrey, long time ago!"
+
+The great variety of theories commonly received as to the supposed origin
+of this singular race of men have done little to dispel the obscurity
+which prevails as to the real _stirps_ of which the Australian race is a
+branch. Writers who are fond of squaring facts with pre-conceived theories
+maintain that the first inhabitants of Australia came from Eastern Asia or
+the Indian Archipelago, and passing Torres Straits gradually overspread
+the entire Australian continent. Nay, some even go so far as to maintain
+that there exists to this time in the interior of some of the islands of
+the Malay Archipelago a race of men identical with the aborigines of
+Australia. And it certainly is a remarkable fact, that most of the
+Australian war-songs, dances, &c., have been diffused from north to south,
+although it does seem venturesome to deduce from this single circumstance
+a migration from Eastern Asia. Others again hold (such, namely, as
+Prichard, Wappaus, Burdach, &c.), that the aborigines are of the same race
+as that inhabiting New Guinea and New Caledonia, and thus make them of the
+same stock as the Australasian negro. Lastly, a modern naturalist, Mr.
+James Brown, who lived sixteen years amongst the blacks, considers it not
+improbable that some Malay crews (for since time immemorial it is known
+that the Malays have been acquainted with, and visited the northern
+shores of, Australia) had been, by shipwreck or some similar calamity,
+cast away on the coast of the mainland, or on some of the islands near
+Torres Straits, and had thus become the first involuntary settlers of the
+north of Australia. This increasing population gradually spread over the
+interior, and when after some centuries this people had traversed the
+continent and arrived at the ocean on its further side, they had already
+lost all recollection of their Pelagic origin, and were no longer capable
+of deriving any advantage from the sea spread before their astonished
+gaze. Strange to say, the black populations of Australia seem to be the
+sole savage race inhabiting the coast of an ocean, who possess no means of
+transport by water, and are unable to swim! Very possibly the recent
+expeditions into the interior, undertaken with such ardour and attention
+to details, may throw some new light upon these aborigines, but equally,
+if not more, probable is it, that the entire race may have disappeared
+from the earth before any reliable facts can be ascertained respecting
+their origin, their migrations, or their history.
+
+The morning after our arrival at Wulongong, and our first acquaintance
+with the natives, we made an excursion, under the tutelage of Mr. White,
+to Balgonie Farm, to hunt kangaroo in the forests of the neighbourhood. It
+was not, however, the large species (_Macropus Major_) we were to hunt,
+which sometimes attains a height of six feet, or even more, but a smaller
+kind known as the Wallaby (_Halmaturus ualabatus_). The kangaroo proper
+have long since retreated before civilization, and are now only found in
+the recesses of the forest, hundreds of miles inland. The various
+participators in the hunt were posted at certain distances in one of the
+splendid forests, stretching between the Bellambi-Keira and Kemla ranges
+of hills, while the blacks who accompanied us set forth to drive the game
+towards us, assisted by their Dingoes, a kind of dog usually supposed to
+be originally of European race. The blacks use the term "Dingo"
+promiscuously for every description of dog, whereas the regular wild dog,
+or rather the dog that runs wild in Australia, is called in the native
+tongue "Warrigul," and is of no particular breed, but seems rather a
+mongrel descendant of the sheep dog.
+
+The hunt was not very successful, and of some ten or twelve started by the
+"beaters," only two were killed. Although one can discern the Wallaby at
+some distance by its plashing tramp, so that it seems but to need a glance
+of the eye to bring it down as it flies past on its hind legs, followed
+close by the dogs, it yet needs great activity and precision of aim to hit
+the nimble animal as it hops swiftly past.
+
+Yet though we were rewarded with such poor sport, our stay among the
+splendid woods of the Keira range sufficiently repaid us. The most varied
+and luxuriant forms of vegetation, changing at every step, almost
+transcend the wanderer's power of description by their marvellous and
+enrapturing beauty. Some portions of the forest landscape, where splendid
+tree-ferns and gigantic gum trees, enveloped in the folds of the Liana,
+from which in its turn depended exquisite parasitic plants, reminded us of
+the brilliant profusion of the tropics. Not less peculiar and uncommon
+than the vegetation were the sounds that struck our ear from amid the
+semi-obscure green covert, without our eyes being able to distinguish the
+singers. And so deceptive are some of these, that one almost involuntarily
+starts as the loud crack resounds close to his ear of the _Phsophodes
+crepitans_, known to colonists as the "Coachman's whip," or the _Myzantha
+Garrula_, or bell-bird, sounds its bell-like note.
+
+During our stroll we came upon several farms, plain wooden huts covered
+with the glutinous bark of the gum tree, whose impoverished exterior gave
+little promise of the comfort to be found within, and pleasantest of all
+was the ready and heartfelt hospitality. Hardly had we set our foot within
+a hut, ere all the members of the family bestirred themselves to bring
+milk and butter, eggs and bread, of which they pressed us to partake. In
+each we visited there was no lack of beautiful china, elegantly carved
+wine glasses, and Sheffield table cutlery, while the walls were decorated
+with elegant engravings and wood-cuts. The bread was usually the national
+institution, known as "Damper," which is simply some meal and water well
+mixed and heated in warm ashes. It is very palatable, and besides the
+simplicity of its preparation, the meal well kneaded being baked for an
+hour as aforesaid, it possesses the advantage of continuing for a
+considerable time fit for use.
+
+Our return to Sydney was fixed for the following morning. We were desirous
+of catching the steamer which plies from Wulongong every second day, as
+our Commodore, and several of the scientific staff, had received an
+invitation for the evening at Sydney. As the steamer would first of all
+start towards noon from Keiama, we employed the hours of morning in a
+visit to the coal mines of the Keira, and hunting in the adjoining
+forests. Coal is very abundant in these mines, and is wheeled along a
+level shaft in small waggons as far as the high road, whence it is
+conveyed by regular carts to the city. About 200 of these are brought up
+every day.
+
+Unfortunately our plan for returning by the steamer fell through, as a
+high wind and heavy sea rendered the entrance of the boat into the harbour
+a very problematical business. Accordingly, as the boat had not made her
+appearance by 4 P.M., there was nothing for it but to return by coach to
+Appin, so as to enable us to reach Sydney in time for our invitation. The
+cool of evening began now to be felt among the lofty steep hills, over
+which lies the road to the interior. At first all went well, and the early
+part of our journey was performed in all comfort and at a rapid pace. But
+we soon came to some very steep parts of the road, where our tired horses
+gave out, and could not proceed one step further. By this time we had left
+the coach, and went on on foot, shooting and collecting as we proceeded,
+and admiring the beauty of the landscape around. The coach had stuck fast
+half-way up a steep ridge, while the horses took no heed of the servants'
+flagellation. The coarse language in which Mr. Croker, the very type in
+this respect of an English driver, exhorted Billy and Sam (so were our two
+steeds named), and the frequent song of the whip, availed nothing; the
+animals would not budge a step; so we had to lend our assistance in
+person, and move the vehicle a few paces farther to a less dangerous
+position.
+
+Further progress, under the circumstances, was out of the question. It was
+resolved to send man and horse back to Wulongong to engage additional
+horses, and continue our walk as far as the huts at Bargo, the next
+station, 18 miles distant. _En route_, or at Bargo, it was supposed our
+coachman would overtake us with fresh horses. As we were by no means sure
+of our road, we took the precaution of carrying our most necessary
+effects, in the event of our having to pass the night in the bush.
+
+It was 6.30 P.M., and the sun was going down, only the extreme summits of
+the trees catching and reflecting his golden beams. On we went, our
+excitement stimulated by the prospect of an adventure. Gradually the
+darkness of night enveloped the wood. Our path became uncertain. Even the
+full splendour of the moon, as she rose in the east, and darted her silver
+rays through the gloom of the _Eucalypti_, casting gigantic shadows on the
+sandy soil, rather tended to confuse us amid this labyrinth than enable
+us to extricate ourselves. We held on however till 1 A.M., and were just
+on the eve of camping for the night to await the break of day, when all at
+once we saw before us the stately fence which surrounds Bargo. With
+quickened steps we made for the lonely little farm, and hammered at its
+closed door. A tremendous chorus of barking dogs was the not very
+propitious welcome of guests arriving at such an unseasonable hour. After
+repeated knocking the door of the hut was opened; an old man appeared in
+his night-shirt on the threshold, and gruffly inquired who we were and
+what we wanted? The reply was not difficult. Our having passed that way
+before, when we had scraped acquaintance with the old gentleman, likewise
+stood us in good stead. We were most cordially received, and, despite the
+lateness of the hour, preparations were at once made to prepare something
+for us to eat. Tea, coffee, eggs, fresh butter, and damper were carried
+into the sitting-room, and as far as was practicable sleeping quarters
+were prepared in the little hut.
+
+The only ill result of our nocturnal fatigues was that we rose late, the
+sun being high in the heavens ere we awoke. We were just about to ask for
+our driver, when he made his appearance, and told us he was ready to
+proceed. He had paid hire for fresh horses at Wulongong, and hoped to make
+the rest of the journey without further interruption. While they were
+being put to, we re-entered the hut, and now perceived the small space
+within which ourselves, three persons, had passed the night on benches,
+chairs, and tables. The light of day did not belie the hospitality of our
+reception. The furniture was rude but clean. What most surprised us was
+the number of massive books which stood on a small shelf, carefully
+arranged. They were by much the most valuable part of the furniture, and
+the proprietor seemed to be aware of this. The books had been the property
+of a schoolmaster, who had exchanged their spiritual contents against
+spirits of another nature. The host gave "tick" to the schoolmaster, and
+thus gradually possessed himself of the entire collection, no
+inconsiderable number, of interesting works, which now passed from hand to
+hand on holidays or after the day's work was over; the desire for
+knowledge of the settlers in this primitive Australian forest thus finding
+ample room to expand itself in many useful and learned particulars of
+foreign lands and peoples.
+
+Towards 1 P.M. we reached Campbelton. At the hotel where we alighted was
+installed a lodge of Odd Fellows, newly instituted. The first visible
+result of its organization was almost universal intoxication! In the
+streets and the public-houses, everywhere crowds of drunken men were
+staggering about. Every third house in Campbelton is a whisky shop!
+Throughout the colony the consumption of ardent spirits has reached an
+alarming height, being estimated at L6 per head of the entire population
+annually! Besides the spirits manufactured in the colony itself, New South
+Wales imports annually L1,000,000 of wine, beer, brandy, and other
+descriptions of liquor; a greater consumption of spirits than in any
+other country of the globe![17]
+
+The rest of our return journey being by rail was performed in two hours.
+The telegraph is in full activity between Campbelton and Sydney, the
+charge for a message of ten words being two shillings, and two-pence for
+each succeeding word. Towards 6 P.M. we reached Sydney, driving in the
+present instance to the Australian club, where accommodation had in the
+kindest manner been provided for us.
+
+While one section of our staff had been making the excursion southwards
+which we have just described, among the forests and barrens of the
+Illawara district, another party visited the sources of Hunter River and
+the Newcastle coal-fields, whence they returned laden with botanical,
+mineralogical, entomological, and palaeontological collections, samples of
+coal, fossil plants, and specimens of the Silurian formations.
+
+The most interesting episode in their excursion was their stay on Ash
+Island, a small isle in the Hunter River, the property of A. W. Scott,
+Esq., M.L.A., who has settled there with his family. Two of his daughters
+are hardly more conspicuous by their loveliness and grace than by their
+profound acquaintance with entomology, which they pursue with the utmost
+zeal. In addition to geological and conchyliological collections, they
+have also a carefully classed collection of insects and butterflies, and
+at the time of our visit were about publishing a large work upon
+Australian butterflies. They also have the lepidopterous _fauna_ of New
+South Wales in great variety and in every stage of metamorphosis, in many
+cases from the very _ovum_, all copiously explained, and their
+distinguishing characteristics placed beneath in a series of above one
+hundred tables, which the two ladies, who are accomplished artists both in
+drawing and painting, have themselves lithographed and coloured.
+
+An excursion was also made from Ash Island to the Sugar Loaf, 3288 feet
+high, the loftiest mountain in the district. As they had to do 40 miles in
+one day, the party sprang to their horses as soon as day dawned, and,
+accompanied by two settlers of Ash Island, laid themselves out for the
+day's work. First they ascended Hunter River for about a couple of miles,
+which a little further on headed to the northward, while the cavalcade
+kept to the left towards the hills. The forest was so clear of underwood,
+that one could almost ride along as though in a park. Despite the numerous
+traces of extensive fires, it seemed to have been but little altered by
+these from its primitive wildness. Occasionally huts and cultivated land
+were passed; the great proprietors usually give these runs to be
+cultivated as farms, or make them serve for their cattle, under their own
+drovers. In winter the cattle run at will in the "Bush," as the settlers
+call this characteristic scenery, wherever they can find the best pasture
+for themselves. In summer again, when the great heat dries everything up,
+they are foddered with hay under shelter. The sunny forest consists of
+_Eucalypti_, _Melaleuca_, and other _myrtaceae_, splendid _casuarinas_,
+_Grevilleae_, _Banksiae_, the native pear (_Hylomelum_), the highly prized
+Warratah (_Telopea speciosissima_), the all but shadowless _Acacia_, the
+indigenous cherry (_Exocarpus_), beautiful _Papilionaceae_, and very
+peculiar _Stylidiae_, &c. All these were old acquaintances however of the
+Austrian naturalists, who greeted them in this their native soil with
+redoubled interest and astonishment. Covered with blossoms they grew in
+wild unchecked profusion all around their path, so that the very horses
+frequently trod them under foot, scenting the air with an aroma which in
+Europe can only be obtained by lavish expenditure. Numerous birds, chiefly
+parrots, circled round the tops of the trees; the crow-like _Strepera
+graculina_, the bald-headed _Tropidorhynchus corniculatus_ the "Jack ass"
+(_Dacela gigantea_), so highly regarded and carefully tended by the
+colonists on account of its admonishing them of the presence of poisonous
+serpents, quantities of chaffinches (_frigellidae_), the fan-tailed
+flycatcher (_Muscipiada_), the _Climacteris_, which runs up and down the
+trunks of the trees like our own wood-pecker, the monitor lizard, four or
+five feet in length, which flits rapidly to and fro among the trees, the
+prickly chameleon, and beautiful specimens of fossil helix, all furnished
+a rich reward for the zoologist.
+
+After a ride of three hours the party began to approach a steep wall of
+rock, where the horses were left, as they had now to prosecute their
+journey on foot, till at length they came to a confused mass of coarse,
+breccia-like sandstone, constituting what is known as the Sugar Loaf,
+whence they had to toil laboriously among the rocks till they reached the
+summit. A marvellous panorama was spread out before them; the whole county
+of Northumberland, with its green forest clothing, was stretched out at
+their feet in all its sunlit splendour. To the left far in the distance
+was visible the township of Maitland, and the navigable part of the Hunter
+River, which wound along like a silver band till it was lost in the
+distance, where it fell into the Pacific, on whose seething billows the
+stately ships looked like small white specks on a confused, uncertain
+back-ground. Far in the distance to the right, half concealed by the
+forest, was Lake Macquarie. The colonial members of the party described
+the latter as very difficult of access, but as a veritable paradise for
+the sportsman, since it is frequented by black swans in hundreds, the
+Australian stork, curlews, the hook-billed creeper, cormorants, and an
+infinite variety of water-fowl. The Blue Mountains formed the back-ground
+of this splendid landscape. The whole neighbourhood is pretty well settled
+and cultivated. Here and there wreaths of blue smoke indicated where the
+huts of industrious colonists lay concealed in the forest. Their
+conductors were not a whit behind the strangers in their appreciation of
+the panoramic effect; they had never scaled the summit before, although
+the elder had lived 15 years at Ash Island, and had often been as far as
+the top of the first rocky ascent in search of strayed cattle.
+
+Lost in delighted contemplation of the beauties of nature, no account was
+made of the passage of time, so that part of the return journey had to be
+made in the twilight. It was a delightful, clear, moonlight night. The
+deep stillness in nature was only occasionally broken by the shrill cry of
+the curlew (_Numenius arquata_), from the neighbouring swamps, or the
+rustling of Wallabies disturbed by the tread of the advancing horsemen.
+Buried in a sort of dreamy charm that could find no utterance, the riders
+left their horses to choose their own pace over the sward, hardly able to
+realize that they were indeed under the unclouded brilliancy of an
+Australian sky, traversing the forests haunted by the timid kangaroo and
+the swift but shy emu.
+
+Unfortunately it was found impossible, owing to want of time, to visit the
+Blue Mountains and the gold regions around Bathurst. We had to content our
+curiosity as to the products of the gold-fields by examining the nuggets
+exhibited by the fortunate finders in the jewellers' shops of George
+Street, Sydney, and the particulars furnished in the daily papers of the
+well-authenticated riches of the gold-fields of the oldest colony. During
+our stay a lump of gold was discovered in the Western district weighing
+150 lbs., and worth L6000. Such instances of good fortune only tend to
+raise fallacious hopes of being equally fortunate in the breasts of
+thousands of men. Shortly before our arrival, on the news being
+promulgated of the new Eldorado in the north near Port Curtis on the
+Fitzroy, not less than 16,000 men flocked thither from New South Wales
+and Victoria. This enormous influx of human beings to a district totally
+unprovided with either shelter or provisions for such a horde resulted in
+unutterable suffering. People had sold their goods in Sydney for whatever
+they would fetch, in order to be the first in the gold-field with the
+requisite implements. Many lost their entire means of support, having even
+sacrificed the most favourable prospects in the eager thirst for gold and
+sudden prosperity. The streets of Melbourne and Sydney were filled with
+gold-seekers, who, laden with blankets, household utensils, axes, and
+spades, were laying down their last farthing for passage tickets, and
+rushed breathlessly to the ships which were to convey them to the
+newly-discovered gold-field. The voyage began under the most rose-coloured
+anticipations of brilliant success. But scarcely a month later came most
+depressing intelligence from Port Curtis. Here was a set of lawless
+desperadoes, deceived in their expectations, without food, clothing, or
+even the object of their search, in a remote part of the country, with the
+hot season coming on, and no means of returning! Men were seen selling for
+a few shillings implements that had cost pounds. The whole road from the
+supposed gold-fields to the landing-quay was strewed with diggers, who,
+footsore and fainting under the heat, were toiling towards the coast,
+where they rushed in wild confusion on board the ships which were to
+convey the victims back to the colonies they had left at so much sacrifice
+and with so extravagant expectations!
+
+It was only the energetic measures taken by Government, by whom provisions
+were forthwith despatched to the wretched make-shifts of settlements
+improvised on the spur of the moment, and gave numbers free passages to
+Sydney and Melbourne, that prevented some serious disaster. A few months
+later the place so suddenly populous had become once more a despised
+solitude, and Rockhampton had resumed its wonted state of a hamlet
+consisting of two or three houses. In Sydney, however, the famished crowd
+seeking after work kept wandering about, thankfully accepting the soup
+which the charity of their fellow-citizens supplied free of charge.
+
+During these various excursions of the scientific staff, the frigate had,
+thanks to the kindness of H.E. Sir Wm. Denison, been taken into the
+Government dry dock at Cockatoo Island in order to facilitate her
+extensive repairs. The _Novara_ was, as the chief engineer himself
+allowed, the largest man-of-war which had ever been docked, not merely in
+Port Jackson, but anywhere in the Eastern hemisphere.
+
+The Fitzroy dry dock, which had not long been completed, is 300 feet in
+length (since lengthened another 100 feet), 60 feet wide, and will
+accommodate vessels drawing 19 feet water. In preparing this splendid
+structure, which took eight years to complete, a huge rock 50 feet high
+was first blasted, the excavation began on the land-side, and on its
+completion a gate opened towards the sea. All being right thus far, a
+subaqueous mine was sprung by means of large diving-bells, the
+excavations being charged with two or three lbs. of powder. A steam-engine
+of 40-horse power pumps the dock dry,[18] besides being geared to set in
+motion the various machinery in the shops, such as lathes, iron planes,
+&c. The dock gates are iron-plated. Although constructed entirely by
+convict labour, the expense was enormous, since to overcome the
+extraordinary difficulty presented by the soil, the entire machinery, down
+to the very smallest tool, had to be imported from England.
+
+The frigate lay about a week in dock. Besides the usual handicraftsmen
+there were upwards of thirty caulkers employed, each of whom was paid
+14_s._ per diem, net, but the entire cost was 17_s._ a day, as each man
+was conveyed to and fro, morning and evening, at Government expense. But
+as provisions are high, the workman can save by the end of the week little
+if at all more than the English labourer who does not receive one-third of
+his wages. At present there are on the island 360 prisoners, all such as
+have been sentenced to ten years penal servitude at least. This
+establishment was, however, to be broken up, and the convicts distributed
+among other prisons, so soon as the dock was quite completed.
+
+The main features of a prison reform, contemplated by Sir Wm. Denison,
+with the praiseworthy object not merely of prevention of crime, but of
+ameliorating the moral condition of the criminal, consisted in the
+classification of criminals according to the nature of their
+crime--co-operative labour during the day, solitary confinement at night,
+and a certain amount of remuneration for work performed, so as to
+stimulate to habits of industry by a visible reward, and a scale of
+dietary barely sufficient to maintain life, any additional delicacy being
+paid for out of the man's own earnings, yet not so as to entirely exhaust
+his wages, the balance of which thus went on accumulating, so as to give
+him a small sum of money in hand, when, his sentence expired, he was set
+at liberty with, it is to be hoped, freshly-acquired habits of industry.
+To facilitate this benevolent plan, Sir William bethought him of erecting
+the prisons in the neighbourhood of Sydney, where there is more of a
+market for convict labour, and recommended the construction of roads. The
+number of prisoners at present in New South Wales is about 1260, whose
+support costs on an average L36,000 per annum. In order to adapt to the
+existing prisons the new system put in operation by the late
+Governor-general, and extend it to 1600 men,[19] there would be required a
+further outlay of L69,000, but one-third of the present annual outlay for
+sustenance would be saved.
+
+On 25th November the _Novara_, thoroughly overhauled and rejuvenated,
+returned to her former anchorage near Garden Island, and the following day
+commenced a series of festivities, which the German residents at Sydney
+had got up to welcome the Imperial Expedition, commencing with a
+serenade, given by the German Singing-Club, who hired a large steamer, the
+_Washington_, for the occasion, which they had gaily decorated with
+foliage and coloured lamps. Amidships there was a splendid transparency,
+with the word "Welcome" inscribed in letters of light, above which was a
+very neatly executed Austrian eagle. Upwards of 300 guests shared in the
+fete. At 8 P.M. the vessel got under weigh from Circular Quay. With the
+first plash of the paddles the music struck up, and the ship glided off,
+as though on the wings of Harmony, towards the grand-looking _Novara_.
+
+Unfortunately the weather proved very unfavourable. To an oppressingly
+hot, close, sultry day of entire calm, the thermometer marking 109 deg. Fahr.
+in shade, there had suddenly sprung up a "Brickfielder,"[20] that dreaded
+south wind, which may be considered one of the worst plagues of Sydney,
+owing to the clouds of dust. It now put German patience and German
+good-humour to a severe proof. At each tack of the steamer it blew out a
+whole row of variegated lamps and illuminations, which, however, were as
+perseveringly relit. It had been firmly resolved, however, to let nothing
+mar the success of the festival, and the old indomitable German "pluck"
+came out victorious in its contest with the "Brickfielder." Amid the full
+clangour of the bands of music were heard shouts of jubilant mirth,
+mingled with the howling and whistling of the wind, and the rush and roar
+of rockets, while the occasional firing of Bengal lights shed their magic
+effect over the parti-coloured crowd on board, the ships in harbour, and
+the agitated waters below. At last the steamer got near the frigate, which
+she swept round in a wide graceful curve, and dropped anchor at a little
+distance away. At that moment a considerable number of port-fires were lit
+on board the _Novara_, bathing the entire scene, including the stately
+ship herself, in an absolute deluge of light, guided by which a number of
+boats put off with the company, who despite the weather were all enabled
+in safety to gratify their curiosity as to the effect of nocturnal
+festivities.
+
+One of the frigate's boats was manned and despatched to the steamer, to
+bring on board the _Novara_ the committee who had been entrusted with the
+presentation of an address.
+
+On board the _Novara_ the utmost excitement prevailed, almost all the
+officers and petty and warrant officers being on deck, the band playing
+nothing but German music. The evening ended as it began, with music and
+melody, such a thoroughly German welcome making a profound impression upon
+the English of Sydney.
+
+The following day the German clubs of Sydney invited the staff to a
+ceremonial banquet, the saloon in which dinner was served being elegantly
+decorated with the flags of the various German states, between which were
+excellent likenesses of the Emperor and Empress. Upwards of seventy guests
+sat down to a sumptuous repast, after which free flow was given to the
+expression of the warmest wishes for fatherland and the German nation.
+
+While these festivities were going on, the English mails brought the
+intelligence of the birth of an heir to the throne! So signal a cause for
+thankfulness on the part of Austria was duly observed at the uttermost
+ends of the earth, and on 27th November the thunder of the _Novara's_
+cannon announced the glad tidings to the colonies of the southern coasts
+of Australia! Salutes of 21 guns were fired at morning, noon, and sunset,
+while on board our ship, which was decorated with all her colours, a
+solemn _Te Deum_ was sung, after which the crew were mustered on parade.
+The English ships of war also "dressed," and returned our salute by one of
+a similar number of guns. On the 30th there was a ball on board, to which
+400 guests were invited, many of the _elite_ being overlooked through
+sheer want of space or accommodation!
+
+The hospitality extended to the Austrian officers was not however confined
+to these public receptions, when they were thoroughly "lionized" during
+their stay, but also included a constant round of invitations among
+private circles, among which, without making invidious selections, where
+we can but feel a lasting recollection of the cordial kindness we
+everywhere experienced, we may specify those of H.E. Sir Wm. Denison, Sir
+D. Cooper, Speaker, Stuart A. Donaldson, Esq. Chief Secretary, Dr. G.
+Bennett, the eminent physician and naturalist, M. W. Sentis, French
+Consul, and Captain Mann, chief engineer of the docks.
+
+Here also our thanks are due to an estimable Austrian lady, a native of
+Vienna, who, wafted on the pinions of Hymen to Australia, has not a little
+contributed to uphold in that distant region the gentle dignity of the
+Viennese ladies, and the renown of Germany for musical supremacy. This
+lady, widely known in artistic circles as Mlle Amalie Mauthner, is now
+Madame R----, having a few years since married a German gentleman settled
+in Sydney. Quitting her home under the most auspicious anticipations for
+the future, the newly-married lady arrived in Sydney just in time to see
+her husband's house of business succumb under the first of the great
+financial crises. Instead of a life of affluence and ease in the
+gold-country, the sorely-tried lady was compelled to display her
+irresistible energy and activity by availing herself of her eminent
+musical attainments. The charming artist was speedily recognized and
+cordially supported in Sydney. The wealthiest and most distinguished
+families considered it an especial favour to be permitted to place their
+children under Mad. R----'s tuition. Her concerts became the most
+fashionable of the season, and the dark cloud which had gathered above the
+young inexperienced wife on her arrival in Australia, had, thanks to her
+marvellous energy and activity, gradually been dispelled, leaving a bright
+sunny horizon of felicity and content.
+
+We had but little opportunity of observing the phases of political life in
+Sydney, our arrival being coincident with the "dead season" of politics.
+We were just in time to be present at the spectacle of the prorogation of
+Parliament. This ceremonial took place in the chamber of the Legislative
+Council, the Governor-general officiating in person. The second chamber,
+or Legislative Assembly, was, as in England, represented simply by a
+deputation. Punctually at noon Black Rod threw open the doors and
+announced in grave but loud tones, "His Excellency the Governor-general of
+New South Wales," upon which Sir William Denison entered the apartment
+with much dignity, and assumed his seat under a sort of canopy. By his
+side stood the Ministers, his private secretary, and an aide-de-camp.
+Before him sat the President of the Legislative Council, and other high
+dignitaries. Sir D. Cooper, Speaker of the Assembly,--whom we scarcely
+recognized in his strange official costume, a black silk single-breasted
+coat, richly laced with gold, and an immense full wig,--delivered a short
+address, to which the Governor-general briefly responded, and the ceremony
+was over and the Parliament prorogued. Australia now enjoys such a free
+constitution, modelled after the English form, the administration of the
+various colonies is so entirely autonomous, their duty to the mother
+country so insignificant (so far as outward form goes), that the
+colonists seem quite content with their present administration, and the
+mal-contents, who once advocated separation and independence, even to the
+length of ventilating the subject in Parliament, have now been reduced to
+utter insignificance.
+
+Each colony has, by the "New Constitution Act" of 1851, been provided with
+the utmost freedom of self-government, the British Government only
+reserving the right of veto in those cases where the colonial laws should
+happen to run counter to the common law of the Empire. One hears, it is
+true, many prognostications as to the result of dividing the country into
+so many independent colonies, and having so many parliaments, especially
+as to the immense preponderance that the inhabitants of the cities must
+have over the scattered country population. A few even seem to be of
+opinion that they must contain many elements eminently unsuitable to the
+vitality of a mutually reliant, cohesive, law-abiding confederation. But
+although some passing blots and temporary defects may be dragged to the
+light of day, it must not be overlooked that the Australian continent is
+almost as large as Europe, and that each of these colonies covers more
+superficial area than most of the European states. As the laws and
+administration are the same for all these, it is more probable that the
+anticipated break up of moral power will rather take the form of
+developing true political life, so that the masses will more honourably
+and surely be enabled to appreciate their constitutional rights and
+duties.
+
+A few days before our departure some of the scientific staff had further
+opportunity of communicating with the "blacks." It was important to extend
+our collection of craniological specimens for that branch of study, by
+comparing the various races of men with each other, so as to enlarge our
+knowledge of the physiological peculiarities of either sex and every race;
+and as we had been told that numbers of skulls could be procured among the
+_Gunyahs_, or sandstone cavities of Cook-river Bay, which had been a
+favourite burial-place of the aborigines, we made an excursion thither,
+still accompanied by our staunch friend, Mr. Hill.
+
+Our light vehicle rattled merrily through the suburbs of New Town, a sort
+of suburb of Sydney, thence over the Cook-river Dam, 1000 feet wide by 200
+feet in length, to Coggera Cove, where several of the aborigines had
+pitched a temporary camp. These were two Mestiza women with their
+children, and Johnny, the last of the Sydney blacks, who might be about
+40, and was a cripple in consequence of an injury sustained in childhood.
+In 1836 there were 58 still alive; now Johnny is the last remaining
+survivor!
+
+We set off from Coggera Cove in a small, but safe, and well-built boat,
+rowed by Johnny and some white colonists, bound for Cool-river Bay, but
+our search in the sandstone caverns was unfortunately fruitless. Johnny
+then conducted us to a spot where Tom Weiry, one of the last of the
+chiefs, who lived at the mouth of Cool River, and died about twelve years
+previous, had been buried. Tom Weiry, or Tom Ugly, as the English named
+him, was a very athletic man, whose skeleton was a real prize for the
+purposes of comparative anatomy. Close to the spot where, according to
+Johnny, the last remains of the Australian chief reposed, were large
+quantities of empty oyster-shells, indicating that the place in question
+had once been a favourite resort of the "blacks," attracted thither by the
+prolific yield of this place in those shell-fish, one of their most highly
+appreciated articles of food. At various spots traces of fires were
+visible. The aborigines of the coast usually bury their dead clothed in
+the woollen blanket they wore in life, with the heads seaward, and near
+the coast, with but a few feet of earth over them. Unfortunately we had
+our pains for our reward, although Johnny repeatedly assured us he had
+himself, in picking up shell-fish, on that very spot seen projecting from
+the sand human bones, that frightened the superstitious fellow from
+prosecuting his search in that direction. Indeed, Johnny was positive some
+other exploring naturalist had been there and walked off with our
+contemplated anthropological prize.
+
+We returned, our object unachieved, to our boat, and so back to Coggera
+Cove, where we found tea and chocolate prepared in the renowned "black
+pot," that figures so much in bush life, off which we made an excellent
+repast. With true kindliness Mr. Hill shared what we had brought with us
+with the aborigines, who, on their part, showed themselves very obliging
+and attentive.
+
+A second excursion, still in Mr. Hill's company, was made after
+craniological specimens to Long Bay, twelve miles distant, among whose
+thickets a few natives had been residing for some weeks. The road thither
+passed through gum tree forests, varied by wide grass plains covered with
+the many-blossomed _Metrosidero_, with its long deep red stamens, and
+brilliant _Melaleuca_, its twigs also nearly covered with white flowers,
+among which rose the tapering flower-stem, ten or twelve feet high, of the
+_Xanthorrhea_, something like reed-mace, surrounded by flights of
+humming-birds, which were imbibing its delicious nectar with their long
+bills. Great quantities of little birds were swarming about the brushwood
+and rushes, occasionally coming quite trustfully so close to us that we
+could have caught them with a butterfly net. We had been riding perhaps an
+hour or two when Mr. Hill suddenly began to call in the native manner.
+Those forthwith summoned by this quite unique sound replied from the
+thicket, as if recognizing the approach of a friend, and in a minute or
+two more we found ourselves in the midst of a number of aborigines of both
+sexes, mostly naked, or with a coarse woollen cloth around them, lying at
+full length on the ground in listless ease. Close by was a fire, over
+which was suspended a kettle filled with water. A couple of mangy hounds
+covered with sores were basking in the sun, heedless of the footfall of
+our horses, lying as indifferent as their masters till we had dismounted
+and seen our beasts attended to.
+
+It is extraordinary to see how few necessaries these people seem to have,
+and how little ambition they have to better themselves, so long as they
+can indulge their vagabondizing propensities. There is assuredly no nation
+on earth that so aptly illustrates Goldsmith's words,
+
+    "Man wants but little here below,"
+
+as the black race of Australia.
+
+Those we were now visiting had come from the districts of Shoal Haven,
+Port Stephens, and Illawara. There were three men and as many women, one
+of whom, a Mestiza, named Sarah, with two half-blood little children. One
+of these, which, although above two years of age, was still at the breast,
+had a skin quite white, red cheeks, and light-blue eyes, and could
+scarcely be distinguished from the child of white parents. These presented
+so characteristic a type of the race, that we could not resist an attempt
+to make with them some of those admeasurements of the body already alluded
+to, while the artist attached to the Expedition delineated their
+appearance.
+
+The skull of the Australian black is tolerably regular, the forehead broad
+and high, the bridge of the nose pretty high, the eyes dark, brilliant,
+and sunken; the nose and cheek-bones well marked. The mouth generally is
+broad, the upper lip overhanging the under, and the upper teeth also
+project beyond the under. The face, like the entire body, is hairy in an
+unusual degree; the hair of the head is black, thin, often very fine in
+texture, and slightly crisped without being woolly. The skin is usually
+dark or dirty brown, or brownish black. The custom of marking the outer
+arm from the shoulders downwards with three or four marks, from 1 to
+1-1/2 inch long, and rather thick in the cicatrix, and continuing over the
+back with similar incisions, is pretty universal, and seems to be
+considered as a personal decoration. The elder people have the nasal
+cartilage bored through, and wear in the orifice kangaroo bones, or other
+bones, or even pieces of wood as amulets. We did not however remark this
+among the younger generation; this hideous custom seems to have died out,
+apparently on account of its discomfort.
+
+The stay of the _Novara_ in Australia was, as already remarked, so brief,
+that it did not admit of the scientific staff making more distant tours to
+the great cattle "stations," or gold districts. At the same time it
+appears to us important to make some few observations on these two
+products, to which Australia is indebted for her present prosperity, and
+the former of which is fraught with even more of its future destiny than
+the latter. At the commencement of the present century England used to
+procure all her wool from Spain, and somewhat later from Germany[21] and
+Hungary. Since that period the production of wool in the Cape, the East
+Indies, and Australia, has so enormously increased, that Great Britain is
+enabled to get from her colonies the entire consumption she requires for
+her woollen manufactures, averaging from 60 to 70,000,000 lbs., thus
+utilizing the agricultural energies of her emigrating children for the
+behoof of the mother country and her industrial classes.
+
+New South Wales produces at present (1858) above 17,000,000 lbs. of wool,
+the whole of Australia about 50,000,000. The number of sheep has increased
+from 29, imported by the first colonists in 1778,[22] to 8,139,160 in New
+South Wales alone, the total for all Australia being about 15,000,000.
+Some proprietors have upwards of 100,000 sheep, which they divide into
+flocks of from 2000 to 3000, which are in charge each of its respective
+shepherd, who keeps them in their own special "runs."
+
+The most suitable place for breeding sheep is Moreton Bay, lately raised
+into a new independent colony by the name of Queen's Land. The sheep there
+need but little attention, and the maladies to which they are subject in
+the west and south never occur in that colony. Were it not for the
+ravages of the wild dogs, the rearing of sheep would be attended with
+hardly any expense. These are pastured on the crown lands, for the use of
+which each squatter pays L10 per annum for every 4000 sheep, or 800 head
+of cattle. In the north, "Darling Downs" are considered the best,
+consisting of an open undulating table-land, broken here and there by
+occasional clumps of trees, and much resembling the States of Minnesota
+and Iowa, north and west of the Mississippi. On these Downs from 3000 to
+4000 sheep can easily be kept by a single shepherd, whereas in Bathurst
+800 would call into play all the watchfulness of a single individual. On
+Darling Downs the annual increase of a flock of 100 ewes is 96 per cent.;
+in Bathurst it is only 80. The value of a sheep is about 15_s._ to 20_s._,
+and the shearing usually begins in October and lasts till December, the
+average weight being 2-1/2 lbs. to the fleece. Innumerable teams of oxen
+carry the wool in bales of 200 or 300 lbs. from hundreds of miles in the
+interior down to the seaports, where the oxen and carts are usually sold,
+as, owing to the low price of cattle, it would not be remunerative to take
+them back without a freight. While we were in Australia an attempt had
+been made, at much cost of time, trouble, and expense, to import from
+their native Cordilleras a large number of Llamas or Alpacas, with the
+view of increasing the value of Australian wool by a cross with the
+Peruvian. An enterprising English merchant of Valparaiso, named Joshua
+Waddington, who had been 40 years resident in Chili, was a chief promoter
+of the undertaking. In 1852 another Englishman had undertaken to convey
+500 alpacas to England, but, despite the utmost care during the voyage,
+only three were landed alive. Waddington attributed this disaster to the
+want of fresh food, and therefore hit upon the expedient of accustoming
+those animals which he intended to send to Australia to the use of dry
+fodder, such as barley, bran, and hay, for some time before their
+embarkation. As soon as they had become somewhat inured they were shipped
+at Caldera, near Copiapo, and entrusted to the care of Mexican Indians
+accustomed to their habits, for transport to Australia. The vessel was of
+800 tons burthen, and was chartered at 6000 dollars for the voyage. The
+fitting up of the vessel for her novel cargo cost about 300 dollars. Each
+animal, in addition to its ration of dried food, had a quart of water per
+diem. The voyage from Caldera to Sydney took 70 days. Of 316 llamas
+shipped or born on the voyage only 36 died, 280 arriving in excellent
+health at Sydney, and were with all speed turned into a large pasture on
+the Government domain.[23] For weeks the negotiations remained in an
+anxious suspense, in consequence of the original projector of the
+undertaking, an adventurous Yankee, named Ledger, who had purchased the
+animals in the interior of Peru, and after four years of unwearied
+assiduity had accompanied his charge hither, standing out for a large sum
+by way of reward. Long after we had left Sydney we learned that the 280
+llamas were sold to a company of sheep-breeders at L25 a head, or for
+L7000 sterling the entire herd, the value of an animal in Peru being two
+or three dollars.
+
+The yield of the various gold-fields[24] in the west, north, and south of
+the colony, though nothing like so great as in the neighbouring colony of
+Victoria, yet contributes in no inconsiderable degree to the annual
+revenue of the state, and maintains a considerable commerce with other
+countries. According to official reports, the amount of gold taken out
+since its first discovery in March, 1851, to the end of July, 1860, was
+2,587,549 oz., worth about L9,600,000. Besides this, however, a
+considerable quantity of money was brought to the coast by private
+conveyance, where it was smelted down, since the entire yield of New South
+Wales in nine years was L12,696,231, besides L3,096,231 in the State
+Treasury and Mint, according to official returns.
+
+The rumour that gold was to be found in Australia was first set on foot by
+the Rev. H. F. Clarke, a Protestant missionary and well-known geologist,
+who so far back as 1841 found gold in the hills W. of Vale of Clyde, and
+had even then proved to several influential personages by unmistakeable
+evidence the existence of gold-quartz, with the remark that in Australia,
+especially the province of Victoria, all scientific indications were in
+favour of there being a great amount of gold. But the learned country
+parson found at that time little attention or interest, as well in
+consequence of its then being still a penal colony, as of the ignorance at
+that period universally prevalent as to the value of such indications.
+
+Ten years later a certain Mr. Hargrave adopted the rational course of
+visiting California, where he made himself master of the various means of
+obtaining gold, after which he returned, and commenced to wash for gold in
+Summer Hill Creek, Victoria, and thus became the practical discoverer of
+the gold-fields, the special contributor to the development of the
+resources of the country. The committee of the Legislative Council, to
+whom was entrusted to examine and report upon the claims of individuals as
+to the honour of having discovered the Australian gold-fields, added to
+the minute of 10th March, 1841, that Mr. Hargrave, who had so
+disinterestedly thrown open to all this inexhaustible mine of wealth,
+ought to receive L5000, and Rev. W. H. Clarke L1000 in recognition of his
+mineralogical researches, which had conduced to the same result. The first
+Australian gold, 18 oz. in weight, was landed in London by the _Honduras_
+on 20th August, 1851. Thenceforward the importation increased with each
+month, the amount by the end of the year having reached 240,044 oz., worth
+L871,652. The following year the amount extracted was 4,247,657 oz., value
+L14,866,799.
+
+The crowd of gold-seekers and adventurers, attracted by the discovery, was
+something tremendous. From the commencement of Sept. 1851, when 29 men
+were engaged in washing at Anderson's Creek, to the end of December, only
+four months, the population of the diggings reached 20,300; in 1852 they
+numbered 53,500, in 1853 75,626.
+
+Shortly after the discovery of the gold-fields, the Colonial Government
+appointed special officers, the well-known "Gold Commission," to watch
+over these improvised settlements. They published "Regulations for the
+management of the gold-fields," and sold licenses, at 20_s._ or 40_s._
+according to yield, for the privilege of digging within certain limits;
+the localities most in favour being Ballarat, Mount Alexander, Castlemain,
+Sandhurst, Beechworth, and Heathcote.
+
+The gold obtained in 1852 was valued at from 58_s._ to 60_s._ per ounce.
+The banks made advances at the rate of from 40_s._ to 55_s._ per oz., or
+exchanged the gold-dust at from 8-1/2 to 10 per cent. discount for coined
+money. The freight was 4-1/2_d._ per oz. In 1858 the value of the ounce
+had risen at the "diggings" to from 70_s._ to 77_s._, and the discount had
+fallen to 1 per cent., and the Insurance Company charged for gold
+transport a premium of from 1-3/4 to 2-1/2 per cent.
+
+Since that period gold has repeatedly been discovered in fresh localities
+of the adjoining colony of Victoria, the "yield" and the number of
+diggers being also steadily increasing. Many thousands at present leave
+New South Wales annually to try their fortune in other fields than those
+of agriculture. In 1857 upwards of 26,000 persons left this colony for
+Victoria. Consequently, the price of labour has risen throughout
+Australia, and while it has thus increased in expense it has become more
+uncertain and unreliable. A large number of buildings, especially in the
+country, have been left unfinished, and the clearing and cultivation of
+numerous tracts of land have been abandoned. These temporary evils,
+however, cannot be permitted to outweigh the enormous advantages derivable
+from the discovery of the gold-fields of Australia. It has attracted the
+attention of universal mankind to a distant British colony, hitherto
+almost unnoticed, it has peopled the country with magic celerity,
+centupled the value of the land, made its results appreciable in the
+remotest districts of the globe, and raised the colony of Victoria within
+a few years, in national prosperity, increased trade, and extended
+cultivation, to a degree of importance usually the slow growth of
+centuries of industry.
+
+The discovery of the gold-fields had at the same time important scientific
+consequences, chiefly in the way of geological researches, which resulted
+in proving that the widespread popular opinion, that the Australian
+continent belongs to the latest geological era, and had comparatively
+recently emerged from the sea, is entirely erroneous. Rich palaeontological
+collections confirm the opinion that Australia is not the latest, but
+rather the earliest, continent. In several parts of the colony the fossil
+remains of various colossal animals have been discovered, which, as since
+measured, must have stood from 10 to 16 feet in height, and correspond to
+our diluvial Pachydermata in Europe. In like manner, with the exception of
+some quite insignificant tertiary strata of small extent, only crystalline
+rocks and primary formations (from the Silurian upwards) form the chief
+bulk of the continent. The entire series of secondary strata seems to be
+absent. From this fact it necessarily results that Australia has been a
+continent since the end of the primary epoch, that it never has been
+covered by the sea, but remained ever since the beginning of the secondary
+formations, through all those countless ages during which Europe was being
+convulsed by the most tremendous geological revolutions, a habitable soil,
+on which plants and beasts, undisturbed by change in the inorganic world,
+might have continued to flourish down to our own times. Viewed in this
+light the fauna and flora of Australia would be the most ancient and
+primitive in the world.
+
+Another Austrian naturalist, the well-known botanist Professor Unger of
+Vienna, has come to the same conclusions from the fossil remains of some
+Australian plants, accompanied by the further singular deduction, that
+Europe must have been at one period in much closer accordance with this
+remote region. Many forms of plants, especially _Proteaceae_, which at
+present form such a peculiar feature of its vegetation, seem to have been
+similarly prevalent in Europe at that remote age of the globe. But if
+even it be accepted that during the Eocene or earliest tertiary period
+there existed in Europe under similar climatic conditions flora of
+_Coniferae_, _Proteaceae_, _Myrtaceae_, and _Casurinae_, such as Australia now
+possesses, the question still arises as to how the vegetation of a
+locality so remote should have been transferred to antipodean Europe?
+Making all due allowance for the astonishing influence exercised by winds,
+waves, and the migration of animals over the diffusion of vegetable
+species, yet the means of transport by the ocean or by currents of water
+is confined within narrow limits, and under the most favourable conditions
+is limited to the very few plants which can maintain their powers of
+reproduction uninjured by immersion in water, and those on the other hand
+which, on being transported to a strange shore, find there the means of
+existence and increase. As, moreover, the observations which Professor
+Unger has made upon the diffusion of species of plants at that remote
+period, and their very accurately circumscribed limits, run directly
+counter to the opinion of those naturalists who hold to a variety of
+centres of development, (instancing a case where one species of plants is
+found in two widely separated regions,) have never been satisfactorily
+refuted, the learned botanist thereupon proceeds to the conclusion, that
+during the Eocene period Australia was united to the mainland through the
+Moluccas. This land route has been followed at one period by _Araucarias_,
+_Proteaceae_, sandal wood, and a hundred other varieties of tree and
+shrub, which till that connection was made could not diffuse themselves,
+so as thus to reach the European continent, where they are even now found,
+despite the lapse of myriads of years, in the shape of well-preserved
+fossils. Thus too, for similar reasons, the geologist to our Expedition,
+like Professor Unger, regarded Australia as not a youthful, lately-born
+continent, but a country decaying with antiquity, which had played its
+part in the physical history of the globe, and had spread its scions far
+and wide. Some alteration of level is not merely indicated by the numerous
+coral reefs encircling Australia and its island groups, pointing to a
+similar sinking among them as that already noticed among the smaller
+Polynesian islands:--The whole characteristics of the soil, the wastes of
+the interior, the innumerable salt lakes, the rivers which lose themselves
+in these, &c. &c., tell of a coming geological transformation, which
+however--we mention this for the consolation of the settlers--may yet be
+postponed for myriads of years.
+
+The system of transportation, concerning which so loud an outcry has
+recently been made, has so materially assisted in developing the resources
+of the country, that it would hardly be right to quit Botany Bay without a
+few remarks on the penal colony which was in existence there till 1840.
+For there is no spot on the globe better adapted than New South Wales to
+serve as a stand-point, whence any one might accurately study the
+advantages and drawbacks of the English transportation system, as also its
+influence upon a strongly recalcitrant society. In brief, we purpose to
+subject the system as it subsisted for half a century in Australia to a
+thorough analysis, inasmuch as it seems to us that, in our present
+unnatural social conditions, transportation, i. e. the sudden transference
+of the criminal to totally new conditions of external life, seems to
+furnish the much-desired turning point whence we may expect a lasting
+moral improvement of the individual. Our Austrian prisons, especially
+those in which the cell system has not been introduced, are simply houses
+of detention, not penitentiaries, still less reformatories. The
+incarcerated criminal is a burden to himself and to society, to which he
+is only in the most exceptional cases restored improved by confinement.
+The charge of maintaining him increases year by year, without any return
+being made by utilizing the labour of the prisoner. In penal colonies, on
+the other hand, the convict works as much for his own benefit as for that
+of society. He throws open new immeasurable tracts of land to
+civilization, trade, and industry. The evil effects of certain climates
+upon the health of the convict can be corrected by proper ordinances, till
+it is reduced to a barely appreciable minimum. The free settler is also
+exposed in unsettled countries to dangerous illnesses, but as his
+circumstances improve these disappear before the cleared forest, the
+cultivated patch, the drained swamp.
+
+We do not believe that were the option left them there is one solitary
+individual in our Austrian prisons, condemned to periods of imprisonment
+of ten years and upwards, who would not willingly exchange his sojourn at
+home for one in even the insalubrious islands of the Indian Ocean, if the
+prospect were held out to him after a series of years of steady labour and
+honest activity, that he might make his new-found activity available to
+secure his liberty. What may be made, however, of a valueless wilderness
+by means of compulsory labour, we have at this day an example of in the
+case of the first penal colony of New South Wales. Even the objectionable
+manner in which the system was administered during more than fifty years
+in Australia and Van Diemen's land could not entirely destroy its
+beneficial effects upon the criminal, or blind an unprejudiced observer to
+the advantages and general utility of transportation as a means of
+punishment. In 1787 the eastern coast of Australia, chiefly in consequence
+of the too glowing accounts of the suitability of the harbours, and the
+fertility of the soil of Botany Bay, was selected by the British
+Government as the site of a penal colony, and on the 26th January, 1788,
+the first batch of convicts was landed there. These consisted of 600 males
+and 250 women, and were accompanied by an escort of 200 men. Forty of the
+latter were married men, who were accompanied by their wives and children.
+The whole expedition was under the command of Captain Phillip, the first
+Governor of the new settlement.[25]
+
+The colonists had scarcely settled down after their arrival on, as was
+speedily found, the anything but safe or fertile shores of Botany Bay, ere
+they were removed to another harbour, lying about seven miles further
+north, beautifully situate, and fulfilling every requirement, which they
+named Port Jackson.
+
+The first free settlers did not make their appearance till 1794. The
+officers of the garrison were merchants also, and trafficked in whatever
+merchandise they could find. Rum especially was a chief article. A
+Government regulation required every ship which should put into Port
+Jackson, to deliver a certain proportion of her spirits to the officers
+according to their rank!! They also received a list of the merchandise
+brought by each ship, from which they selected whatever seemed most
+profitable, which they disposed of again at retail to the soldiers,
+settlers, and convicts at an immense profit. Further, the officers enjoyed
+the entire monopoly of importing spirits, as also the exclusive privilege
+of selling them to the retail merchants. By these devices many of them
+amassed considerable fortunes by trade, and thus the repeated efforts made
+by a succession of Governors to effect a reform in the colony were
+rendered fruitless. During the administration of Captain Bligh, so widely
+known in connection with the tragic fate of the mutineers of the _Bounty_,
+rum was the most valuable article of exchange, and the colonists found by
+bitter experience that there were no other sellers of this destructive
+drink than the privileged few.
+
+The utmost anarchy and violence reigned supreme throughout New South
+Wales at that period; the power of the Government was set entirely at
+nought, license and violence usurped the place of law and order; the
+convicts found they were not under any effective control or supervision;
+whole bands of them infested the country as "bush-rangers," till they grew
+so bold as to enter the dwellings of peaceful settlers in broad day, where
+they perpetrated the most cruel excesses.
+
+In 1807 Mr. McArthur and Captain Abbot of the 102nd introduced the first
+distilling apparatus into the country for cheapening the production of
+ardent spirits. The Governor forthwith confiscated the apparatus, and
+forbade distillation in any part of the colony. This prohibition gave rise
+among those interested to dissensions, which gradually rose to such a
+height, that about a year thereafter it led to Bligh being placed in
+confinement by some of his own officers. The English Government however
+now began to perceive that such a state of carelessness could no longer be
+endured, and not only reinstated Bligh, but promoted him to the rank of
+Admiral.
+
+On their arrival in the colony the prisoners were sent to barracks in
+Sydney, where the Government selected from their number such
+handicraftsmen as they required for the public works, while the remainder
+were distributed as land cultivators, labourers, artisans, &c., among such
+private individuals as had made themselves agreeable to the Government. As
+free labour was rare and expensive in the colony at that period, the
+requests for such allocations of forced labour were greatly in excess of
+the number of workmen so available.
+
+Those consigned to private individuals were taken into the interior in
+charge of a constable or overseer, where they were required to build a
+shelter for themselves, which, owing to the mildness of the climate, could
+be very speedily accomplished. The hours of work were from 6 A.M. to 6
+P.M., and the main feature was that the convict durst not leave his
+employer, whether kind and good-tempered, or harsh and cruel. When there
+was no further occasion for their services they were remitted to
+Government, who found another employer for them.
+
+All land-holders in the colony were entitled, on preferring a request to
+the Governor to that effect, to have assigned them, according to the
+current quantity of disposable labour, in the proportion of one workman to
+every 320 acres of land; but no settler, no matter how extensive his
+holding, could "take on" more than 75 convicts. Each employer had to
+engage to keep the convict assigned him one month at least, and provide,
+at his own cost, food and clothing according to a scale fixed by
+Government.
+
+The weekly rations consisted of nine lbs. wheaten flour, or at the option
+of the employer, three lbs. Indian corn, and seven lbs. of wheat flour,
+seven lbs. of beef or mutton, four lbs. salt pork, two oz. salt, two oz.
+soap. The clothing consisted of two jackets annually, three shirts of
+canvas or cotton, two pairs of drawers, three pairs of shoes of stout
+leather, and a hat or cap. Each labourer was also allowed the use of a
+counterpane and mattress, which however remained the property of the
+employer. These legal privileges had however been extended through custom
+or the favour of the employers to various little articles of luxury, such
+as tobacco, sugar, tea, grog, &c. In particular, with the object of
+ensuring the utmost zeal on the part of the workman during the harvest
+season, it was almost imperative at that season to show him those little
+relaxations and favours which at length became customary, and in no slight
+degree enhanced the cost of his maintenance.
+
+On the arrival of a convict ship a crowd used to hurry down to await the
+moment when the convicts were to be allotted to applicants. As no special
+memoranda were made during the voyage of the offence for which each man
+had been transported, or his subsequent conduct on the voyage, the
+administration were not in a position to make such a selection as should
+classify the prisoners, and assign them according to nature of crime and
+subsequent behaviour to a determined or a more gentle employer. Hence
+resulted the most lamentable injustice; the most truculent of these men
+occasionally were assigned to the gentle masters, while a less hardened
+criminal came under the yoke of a hard-hearted task-master, and thus had
+an infinitely more severe lot to bewail than he in fact deserved.
+
+Such a harsh, and in too many cases unjust, method of dealing with them,
+drove the convicts to the commission of fresh offences, or even crimes,
+and, in desperation at the wrongs to which they were exposed, they not
+merely neglected utterly the interests of their temporary masters, but in
+many cases, impelled by a fierce thirst for vengeance, they burned house
+and property over his head at the harvest time!
+
+The chronic alarm and anxiety of the colony during a long period was not
+however traceable to the principle of the system itself, but to the method
+in which it was worked by self-seeking natives, greedy of gain. No sooner
+had the most glaring of the evils been rectified, and by means of a
+powerful government law and order resumed their wonted sway, ere the young
+colony began to make most unexpected strides in developing its
+capabilities, and both in the unfolding of its natural resources and in
+its trade and commerce ere long attracted the attention, not merely of
+England and her manufacturers, but of all Europe.
+
+In 1840 New South Wales ceased to be a convict settlement, at which period
+there were 130,856 souls in the colony, 26,967 of whom were convicts. In
+1857, when the last census was taken, there were in all 305,487, of whom
+171,673 were males, and 133,814 females, who inhabited 41,479 houses, 1725
+huts, 50 waggons, and 75 ships, and subsisted chiefly by pasture and
+agriculture.
+
+The morality of this population diffused over 321,579 square miles has
+greatly improved, thanks to the unlimited freedom of individual power to
+develope itself, and the opportunities afforded for leading an
+independent, comfortable life, and in the interests of Truth we must add,
+that in no part of Europe would any one be left so unfettered to travel
+about alone and unarmed, or require less precautions, as in this once
+penal colony.
+
+The number of criminal cases of all sorts in the colony during the last
+ten years, during which the population has increased from 189,600 to
+266,189, is as follows:--
+
+  1848 ... 445 accused, of whom were executed 4
+  1849 ... 534   --         --      --        4
+  1850 ... 555   --         --      --        4
+  1851 ... 574   --         --      --        2
+  1852 ... 527   --         --      --        5
+  1853 ... 604   --         --      --        2
+  1854 ... 637   --         --      --        6
+  1855 ... 526   -- (one of these a woman)    5
+  1856 ... 461   --         --      --        0
+  1857 ... 395   --         --      --        4
+
+One must not forget to take into account that by far the larger portion of
+the population are recruited from the lower class, as measured by
+education. On the whole we may assume that of the 305,487 souls, 30,000
+men and 20,000 women _can neither read nor write_.
+
+As to the intimate connection between crime and ignorance, most striking
+confirmation is obtained from investigations made in England and Wales in
+1842-44, in the case of 69,616 criminals, of whom 21,799 or 31.3 per cent.
+could neither read nor write, 41,620 or 59.8 per cent. could read and
+write imperfectly, 5909 or 8.5 per cent. could read and write well, and
+only 308 or 0.4 per cent. had received a good education.
+
+The present population of New South Wales, despite all their burdens and
+difficulties, furnish an instructive and cheering example of what may be
+made of even hordes of fallen man under certain conditions, if they can be
+afforded the opportunity of working and showing their powers.
+
+Confined in gloomy cells between high walls, chained hand and foot with
+heavy iron fetters, condemned in their wretched state to life-long
+inaction, the convicts sent out to Botany Bay during fifty years would
+have cost the State directly, and society indirectly, an enormous sum;
+while their existence would have passed in silent brooding over their
+fate, and speculations as to the means of avenging themselves on mankind.
+
+Placed on a remote, healthy, fertile shore, with the cheering prospect of
+inaugurating for themselves a new era of existence by labour and industry,
+and thus being enabled to attain competency and respectability, these very
+same men raise themselves, at but little cost, to the position of valuable
+subjects to the state and to society, by causing to smile, under the gold
+crop of agriculture, lands hitherto all but unknown, and thus becoming the
+founders of a community, which bears within itself the germ of such a
+marvellous development in the future, that political seers even now
+designate it as "THE GREAT BRITAIN OF THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE."
+
+A system which, despite the many serious deficiencies caused by individual
+selfish short-sightedness, has produced such results, cannot be considered
+by any unprejudiced inquirer as altogether objectionable or aimless;--on
+the contrary, it seems to us it has proved its utility in founding new
+oversea colonies in portions of the earth as yet little visited, the
+first colonization of which is attended with local difficulties. We have
+but to avail ourselves of the experience acquired at Botany Bay, avoiding
+the canker under which the system has hitherto been worked in the British
+colonies (with the exception perhaps of that pattern convict settlement at
+Singapore, which we have already described), and draw up such regulations,
+keeping in view the sole object of transportation, viz. PUNISHMENT BY
+EXILE, AND REFORMATION OF THE INDIVIDUAL THROUGH LABOUR, as shall
+facilitate its being carried out in an efficient manner, and suffer
+ourselves neither to be diverted from our course by the selfish warnings
+of interested administrators, nor by the objections of ill-advised
+philanthropists.
+
+With respect to the carrying out of a system of transportation, such as
+formerly existed in the British colonies, especially Australia and Van
+Diemen's Land, the following modifications seem to be advisable:--
+
+1. The abandonment of the convict to the employer, i. e. the "assignment
+system," must be entirely given up, as the prisoner by such an arrangement
+degenerates into an article for speculation, out of which it must be the
+task-master's interest to get as much as he can, so as to be able to
+return him upon the hands of the State so soon as his capacity for labour
+begins to fail. The convicts who were thus "assigned" in New South Wales,
+stood to their employers in the same position as negro slaves in the
+Southern States of North America, or the island of Cuba. They were fed
+like beasts of burden, without the slightest remuneration for the heaviest
+work. The State had, it is true, a right to punish the criminal, but it
+seems to us unjust in the extreme to make him the slave of his fellow-man.
+Accordingly this practice was the source of unutterable mischief, and was
+followed by most deplorable results as regards the moral development of
+the colony.
+
+2. The case is very different when the labour of the criminal, instead of
+being devoted to the aggrandizement of a private individual, finds its
+expansion in forwarding parochial or national public works, in clearing
+and cultivating tracts of land, and preparing them for the future labour
+of free colonists, in the laying out of roads, in the erection of
+churches, schools, hospitals, and barracks, in the construction of docks,
+quays, &c. &c. So soon as private interest disappears,--so soon as the
+energies of the criminal are no longer made available to put money in the
+pockets of private speculators, but are utilized for the general good, by
+far the greater number of those minor drawbacks will disappear, which
+press with all the more force on the compulsory labourer, in proportion as
+he feels conscious that he is regarded by him who has purchased his labour
+not as a FELLOW-MAN, but as a CHATTEL, to be employed while he is of any
+value, and then to be cast aside, as one might throw a dried twig into the
+fire. What may be accomplished in this direction, even in colonies of
+comparatively recent foundation, is evidenced by the splendid roads of
+Cape Colony, traversing mountain passes 6000 to 8000 feet high, the
+numerous public buildings in Singapore, Hong-kong, Sydney, &c. Edifices,
+which in consequence of the high price of free labour, might not have been
+erected under the lapse of many years, actually at present rear their
+imposing forms like so many ornamental memorials, now of the worship of
+the loving Saviour, now of our charitable duties to the sick and
+afflicted, but all serving to instruct and civilize the rising generation!
+
+3. As to the subsistence of the criminals, we do not believe that the
+principle of giving them the same descriptions of rations, no matter
+whether they worked much or little, would be found conducive to the
+attainment of the great object of making them feel an interest in their
+labour. We would rather see the present system departed from in this
+particular, and a marked difference made in the food provided for the
+industrious, as compared with their more indolent companions.
+
+4. Of great importance in penal colonies, as tending to produce a lasting
+and decided improvement of the individual, is the FAMILY TIE. What is
+independence or even affluence to the exile, if he has no one to care for,
+or think of, but himself? His slow and laborious earnings would greatly
+tend to plunge him once more into excesses, till he quickly sank back into
+his former state of war with civilization.
+
+5. It seems to us imperatively necessary in the interests of this great
+design of a penal colony, that provision should be made for a certain
+proportion of female population, which might consist partly of female
+criminals, and partly of the wives of such of the male criminals as
+should, after a sufficient probation, be permitted to have their wives and
+children conveyed at the cost of Government to their place of exile.
+Lastly, the nucleus of a female population thus already formed might be
+added to from time to time, by sending out such discharged female
+criminals as had no visible means of making an honest livelihood in the
+mother country. It were a noble object for Christian activity and
+religious harmony to provide the means for sending these wretched outcasts
+to the new home that was thus being formed.
+
+6. The importation of spirituous liquors, that fruitful cause of so much
+crime, must be confined within the narrowest limits. One cannot believe
+that even in unhealthy places, where the water frequently is very impure
+and unhealthy, owing to vegetable matters held in solution, the use of
+strong spirituous liquors must needs be unavoidable. Tea and coffee will
+in such places, as I experienced myself during several years' residence in
+unhealthy climates, be found excellent substitutes.
+
+7. No official of the colony, civil or military, should be permitted to
+trade in any article except the natural products of the soil. On the other
+hand, it would be advisable that each _employe_ should have assigned him
+by Government, a tract of land for cultivation corresponding to his rank.
+
+There can be little doubt, and it may well be advanced as an argument on
+the other side, when the rapid progress made by the Australian colonies
+under the influence of this transportation system is adduced as an example
+in point, that nowhere probably on the earth would external circumstances,
+position of the country, and development of the colony to such a pitch of
+prosperity, combine so wonderfully to produce such a result, as was the
+case with New South Wales. But even the clumsy method of carrying out this
+form of punishment, and the immense use made of it for selfish ends by men
+who had every opportunity for studying close at hand the influence it
+might have been made to exercise upon the development of the Australian
+colonies, could not weaken the conviction that, under more judicious
+management, it would have answered every anticipation that could
+reasonably be formed of any mode of punishment, and that it is better
+calculated than any other to prove conducive to the amelioration of the
+criminal himself. We might, while upon this subject, specially refer to
+the valuable and comprehensive work of Dr. Holtzendorf upon transportation
+as a means of punishment,[26] which embraces all that can be said on
+either side of the question, all put together in an attractive and
+exhaustive manner, and who, contemplating the great example presented to
+the world by Australia, has arrived at a similar conclusion, "that the
+working power of the criminal may, under proper management, be made to
+produce results, able to accelerate the progress of a generation, while
+furnishing at the same time a lever by which to effect a moral reformation
+in the disposition of criminals." He foresees the time "when the colonists
+of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land need no longer feel ashamed at
+the historic recollection of their original convict associations, but
+might rather, viewing the prosperity of their country, and the tone and
+extent of their civilization, feel grateful to the criminals who landed in
+1788 to become the pioneers of the country, and do them the justice of
+believing that the good which they were compelled to do to the soil still
+existed, while the evil they might have done was left undone of their own
+accord, or was gradually assimilated under substantial progress."
+
+The greatest obstacle to be encountered by the transportation system will
+be found in the difficulty of hitting upon suitable localities. When we
+consider the many conditions which must be satisfied, some referring to
+the general objects aimed at in all punishment, some to considerations of
+humanity and utility, when selecting a site for a penal colony, such as
+climate, soil, distance, importance of the country as a market for the
+products of the mother country, &c., it will be found that the number of
+unclaimed or unbespoken territories, in which a scheme of compulsory
+colonization could be carried out on a large scale, is exceedingly
+limited.
+
+For Germany, however, at least under her present political composition,
+the foundation of penal colonies oversea seems all but entirely
+impracticable. She must, in the first place, have her maritime power more
+developed. On this subject the agreement is of importance which was
+entered into in 1836 between Mr. James Colquhon, Consul-General for the
+city of Hamburg, and the agents of the Australian Agricultural Society on
+the other, as, although nothing resulted from it, it nevertheless
+indicates how States that have no colonies can set about the system of
+transportation. The gist of that scheme was the subscription of a sum for
+the passage of such convicts as voluntarily accepted the offer, on their
+engaging to remain for a certain period at compulsory labour in Australia
+on the same terms as those of English convicts.[27]
+
+Once the wish and the necessity shall arise in Germany, owing to the
+expansion of her population, for possessions beyond sea, and her navy
+shall increase on a scale adapted to their protection and defence, then,
+although the choice of locality may be limited, the idea will no longer
+remain impracticable. In the Indian Ocean as well as the Pacific there are
+numbers of island groups, which, by their hypsometric conditions,
+geographical position, and fertility of soil, are admirably suited for
+settlement by white labour. The prejudice against the climatic
+adaptability of the majority of these falls to the ground, when we
+recollect what entirely altered conditions in that respect have been
+brought about by the industry and energy of the colonists of Singapore and
+Pulo-Penang, on islands which, from being in the worst possible repute
+for their deadly climate and dreaded forest malaria, are now favourite
+invalid resorts of the wealthy white residents of the islands of Eastern
+Asia. But German statesmen must no longer hesitate, or continue to
+sacrifice the future to the exigencies, even the most pressing in
+political eyes, of the present, for England noiselessly but systematically
+is possessing herself one after the other of all the islands that are as
+yet untenanted by the white man, as, for instance, quite lately of the
+Andaman Islands in the Bay of Bengal, or, as in the case of the Feejee
+Islands,[28] accept a suspicious protectorate got up by an influential
+missionary; while the Emperor of the French, with his irresistible
+inclination for annexation, is incessantly occupied in seizing on points
+important either by geographical position or for trade purposes, of which
+New Caledonia furnishes the latest example. Too long delay and expectation
+may have for the contemplative German results similar to those which in
+Schiller's beautiful poem, punished the dallying of the son of the Muses,
+whose fate, as compared with the actual political circumstances of
+Germany, suggests but too many painful analogies!
+
+On 6th December the frigate was made ready for prosecuting her voyage, and
+the same evening all was ataunto. The following morning we were to be
+towed out of the many-coved port, till quite clear of "the Heads." The
+steamer, however, sustained an accident to her machinery, and we had her
+services little more than half a day. Early on the 7th, a breeze had
+sprung up from S.W. by S., accompanied by squalls and rain, which
+gradually freshened into squally weather from the S., and determined the
+Commodore to make all sail at once. Already, even while we were still in
+the port, the weather began to be stormy; we had to take in a reef in the
+mainsail, and by 9 A.M. found ourselves outside of "North Head." By the
+afternoon the low flat coast of Australia had sunk below the horizon, and
+the south wind had now become a gale. It seemed as though winds and waves
+had conspired to put to the severest test the operations of the caulkers,
+carpenters, and sail-makers of Sydney. But although the frigate rolled
+tremendously, and the frequent squalls propelled the sea against her hull
+with frightful violence, she did not ship a drop of water below. The
+repairs in dock had been most effectually performed. After a couple of
+days both wind and sea fell, the sun shone out with the mildness of early
+spring, and we bowled along in the most delicious weather and with every
+stitch of canvas set, swiftly careering towards our next goal, New
+Zealand.
+
+On the 9th at 5 P.M. we buried the corpse of one of the gunners, who had
+died the same morning of dysentery, the remains being committed to the
+deep with the customary ceremonies and marks of respect.
+
+On the morning of the 19th we sighted Barrier Island off Cape Butt,
+distant 35 miles. The more we neared the land, the more balmy did the
+atmosphere become. Innumerable Albatrosses and _Procellariae_ swarmed
+around us, and the result of half an hour's shooting from a small boat
+dropped over the side for the purpose, resulted in our securing eleven
+different species of storm-birds. A whale about 50 feet in length also
+came close under our quarter, and only retreated after he had been
+repeatedly fired upon and had received a number of balls in his carcase.
+
+We steered for the South Point of Barrier Island, the outline of which is
+very beautiful, relieved as it is by two hills, of which that to the south
+is about 2000 feet in height, running up into a sharp peak, while the more
+northerly rises gradually, being only precipitous on the northern face.
+The broken conical rocks which ascend out of the sea near the northern
+point of the island unmistakeably indicate their volcanic origin.
+
+Our arrival off New Zealand was signalized by most unusual calms, which
+indeed materially delayed our entrance into Huraka Gulf, a sort of lateral
+bay, entering from the harbour of Auckland. A bark, which had sailed from
+Sydney three days before us, had, as we were informed by our pilot, been
+one day in harbour. We now had to tack slowly up under faint puffs of wind
+towards the anchorage, which we reached finally at 5.30 P.M. of the 22nd
+December, 1858.
+
+The country round Auckland has none of those majestic features which are
+presented by New Zealand further south. The enormous volcanic peaks, such
+as Mount Egmont, 8000 feet high, have dwindled down in this region to
+numerous but small extinct cones, rarely rising above 800 feet. Instead of
+the hills covered with perpetual snow of the central island, one sees here
+only low chains of hills, about 2000 feet high, and a rolling country,
+which dips into the sea in steep cliffs of sandstone. In the various bays
+and channels of the wide gulf might be seen numbers of natives in their
+elegant canoes engaged in fishing. We found but five ships in harbour, and
+here also the _Novara_ was the largest man-of-war that had ever entered
+the port. The population of Auckland turned out on the beach as we
+approached, and began to exchange the usual salutes with the little fort.
+
+
+                               FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] A National System of Political Economy. Stuttgart, 1840. (J. C.
+Cotta.)
+
+[2] In an old map of the year 1542, the Australian continent is named New
+Java.
+
+[3] The mean of thermometrical readings on the north coast is 80 deg.6
+Fahr.;--at Port McQuarrie, in S.E. Australia (31 deg. S.), 68 deg. Fahr.; at Port
+Jackson (34 deg. S.) 66 deg.5 Fahr.; at Port Philip on the south coast (33 deg. S.),
+61 deg.3 Fahr.; at Perth on the west coast (32 deg. S.) 62 deg.6 to 64 deg.4 Fahr. The
+annual rain-fall in New South Wales is 45 inches.
+
+[4] The total superficial area of the somewhat oval-shaped continent lying
+between 10 deg. and 45 deg. S. and 112 deg. and 154 deg. E., is about 2,100,000
+geographical square miles in extent, the coast outline of which is about
+7000 miles, so that for each mile of coast there are about 300 square
+miles of surface, or rather more than double the proportion in Europe. The
+united English population of the different colonies founded in Australia
+(exclusive of Tasmania or Van Diemen's Land) and New Zealand amounts to
+about 1,400,000 souls. Within twenty years the population has increased
+six-fold, and the value of the exports twenty-fold.
+
+[5] The fundamental principle of the University is, "The association of
+students without respect of religious creed, in the cultivation of secular
+knowledge." (See Sydney University Calendar for 1858, p. 15.)
+
+[6] The fixed salary of the teacher varies from L120 to L140 per annum.
+
+[7] At the period of our visit to the colony, the post of secretary was
+filled by Mr. G. French Angus, distinguished as an artist, and widely
+known for his valuable ethnological studies upon the Caffers, New
+Zealanders, and South Australian aborigines. Unfortunately his health gave
+way, owing to his exertions, and he now lives in retirement at
+Collingwood, in South Australia, where however he is still animated by the
+most intense zeal for science.
+
+[8] The expedition discovered on the 21st April, 1858, in 24 deg. 35' S. and
+146 deg. 6' W., an ash tree, two feet in diameter, on whose huge trunk the
+letter L had been deeply cut. Close by there were everywhere traces of a
+regular encampment, and an impression pretty universally prevailed that
+Leichhardt and his companions had camped here, and had cut this mark to
+indicate it. One of the oldest missionaries of Western Australia, the
+venerable Mr. C. Threlkeld, objected, however, to this view that the
+letter L, of which so much was spoken, had in all probability been made by
+one of the youthful natives, who when learning to read and write are in
+the habit of cutting the letters on the trees. We present here the precise
+passage of the text of a letter of Dr. Threlkeld's to us:--"I send you a
+spelling-book, that Billy Blue, one of the black boys, used to have, when
+he was learning to read and write. He and others used to go into the bush,
+and cut the letters of the alphabet on the barks of the trees, and Brown,
+an aboriginal lad, who _went with the unfortunate Leichhardt_, used to do
+the same. _I suspect that he cut the celebrated L on the tree about which
+there is so much talk at the present time._"
+
+[9] One of the most appalling of these was that undertaken in April, 1848,
+by surveyor E. B. Kennedy, along the strip of land between Cape York and
+Rockingham Bay in Northern Australia, whose melancholy fate is described
+by one of the survivors, Mr. Carron, a botanist, in a not less simple than
+affecting manner. "When we first started everything went on well, and the
+most brilliant anticipations were indulged, although there were numerous
+obstacles to be overcome, and the few natives we encountered were
+invariably hostile. Gradually, however, provisions began to fail; sickness
+and loss of strength succeeded, while the prospect of reaching our goal
+grew less and less. The further north we got, as the hot season was now
+setting in, the more frequently did we find the forest rivulets dried up,
+so that we had for days to bear up against an almost maddening thirst. The
+horses which accompanied the expedition gradually sank from exhaustion."
+Almost every day Carron's journal mentions one or the other horse giving
+in of fatigue, when they were compelled for want of further provision to
+eat its flesh during the next two days. That of the last was conveyed
+along by the travellers in sacks, made from the skin of the animal itself.
+Whenever they encountered natives, these proved hostile, and assailed the
+little caravan with spears. Some of them indeed were more friendly, and
+traded with the travellers, but less out of sincere hospitality than with
+the hope of taking them in, and getting them unawares into their power.
+Thus, on one occasion a number of tall, well-made, powerful men and women
+made their appearance, and offered them some fish, which they themselves
+refused to eat owing to its putrified state. Hardly had the travellers
+approached it, unsuspicious of evil, when a cloud of spears cleft the air
+with a whistling noise, and the scene, hitherto so friendly and peaceable,
+became at once a scene of blood and confusion. However, the spear-men
+seemed to have no great dexterity; they usually missed their mark, whereas
+the flints and double-barrels of the whites did deadly execution. One
+however proved more fatal than the rest, and killed Mr. Kennedy, the chief
+of the party. They were now only a few days distant from Cape York, the
+goal of their labours, whence a Government ship was to convey the leader
+and his party back to Sydney. But the survivors were also all but
+exhausted with the terrible fatigues of their journey. Only three out of
+the fourteen survived, and these were reduced almost to skeletons.
+Carron's elbow-bone of the right arm, and also the bone of the right hip,
+were through the skin! (Narrative of an Expedition undertaken under the
+direction of the late Mr. Assistant Surveyor, E. B. Kennedy, for the
+Exploration of the Country lying between Rockingham Bay and Cape York; by
+W. Carron, one of the survivors of the Expedition. Sydney, 1849.)
+
+Still more lamentable was the fate of the last and most important of these
+expeditions, which in 1861 succeeded in crossing the Australian continent
+from the north frontier of South Australia to Carpentaria, and back to
+Cooper's Creek, in which, unfortunately, the travellers missed the depot
+troop that had been sent to their assistance, and the entire party,
+including Messrs. Burke, Wills, and Gray, lost their lives, only one of
+their number, King, escaping to tell their sad fate. (Vide Appendix.)
+
+[10] Government has bethought itself of a plan for facilitating
+discoveries in the interior, and rendering them more profitable by
+importing from Egypt into Australia camels and dromedaries, chiefly of the
+breed known as El Hura, as these animals can easily get over 60 to 80
+miles per diem, and can moreover dispense with water for weeks together.
+
+[11] During a visit which our naturalists paid to Dr. Bennett they were
+shown a young pair of the Morok (_Casuarius Bennetti_), discovered not
+long since at New Britain, which he intended to present to the Zoological
+Society of London for exhibition at the Regent's Park. What is very
+remarkable in this singular bird is the shape of the bill, which is curved
+in the male, but almost straight in the female.
+
+[12] This distinguished gentleman, conspicuous alike as a theologian and a
+politician, who plays a by no means insignificant part in the legislative
+assemblies of the colonies, presented an address to the Parliament of
+Frankfort in 1848, in which he set forth the advantage of founding a
+German colony in the Pacific. Owing to the ignorance prevalent on the
+subject this _brochure_ passed unnoticed, and New Caledonia, the island
+which the worthy Doctor had designed for a German colony, was taken
+possession of by the French. He has since published a most interesting and
+valuable work on Queensland, in which he gives some very curious details
+about the native practice of skinning their dead, when the true skin being
+of a white colour, the corpse has a most ghastly appearance. He says this
+is the reason some of the tribes so highly reverence the _white_ man, whom
+they regard as their own ancestors restored to life, but in an improved
+nature!!
+
+[13] The depopulation of the natives is advancing so rapidly that one of
+our Sydney friends writes, "An expedition similar to your own, which shall
+visit us some years hence, will find little more than a scant remnant of
+the aborigines. That of the _Novara_ is probably the last of a scientific
+nature, which will have been successful in seeing living specimens of the
+once numerous blacks of Australia."
+
+[14] _Wullurah_ in the native language signifies "the place of
+deliberation," because in former times this place had, on account of its
+commanding position, been selected by the aborigines for assembling the
+various tribes by means of watch-fires, or blasts of a horn, to decide
+upon peace or war.
+
+[15] On the Clarence river there has been for several years past, in full
+activity, a stearine candle-factory, which pays well, owing to the demand
+at the "diggings" for these candles. In 1856 the value of those
+manufactured was L600,000.
+
+[16] According to English writers this instrument, the peculiar properties
+of which are so well known that we need not enlarge upon them here, has
+also been found in the Sarcophagi of Upper Egypt. In some of the frescos
+now in the British Museum, which illustrate the manners and habits of the
+Ancient Egyptians, a figure is represented in the act of launching the
+Boomerang against a covey of ducks, which are flying out of a thicket.
+
+[17] In Prussia, the annual consumption of spirits would fill a basin one
+mile long, 33 feet wide, and 10 feet deep. In England, the annual quantity
+of _wine_ drunk per head is 0.267 gallon; in France it is 19 gallons! The
+British nation pays annually L70-74,000,000 taxes, and L74,000,000 for
+spirits!!
+
+[18] The rise and fall of the tide at Port Jackson is very small, not
+above four or five feet.
+
+[19] Viz. 1400 men, and 200 women.
+
+[20] This is the nickname given to the violent S. or S.W. wind,
+fortunately of short duration, which so frequently springs up towards
+evening from the "Brickfields," because it brings with it such volumes of
+sand and dust from the eminence known as the Brickfield lying S. and S.W.
+from Sydney, enveloping the entire city in murky clouds of dust. The
+"Brickfielder" is a pretty safe guide as to the weather, as soon as it
+blows the whole sky becomes suddenly covered with clouds, and cool rainy
+weather follows upon the previous heat.
+
+[21] The imports of wool from Germany had, in 1836, risen to 31,766,194
+lbs., but it has since then rapidly receded, owing mainly to the increased
+production in the English colonies.
+
+[22] We present an official account of the live stock in the settlement at
+Port Jackson, May 1st, 1788, which forms an interesting contrast with the
+development of its resources since that period:
+
+                     | S | M | C | B | C |
+                     | t | a | o | u | o |
+                     | a | r | l | l | w |
+                     | l | e | t | l | s |
+                     | l | s | s | s | . |
+                     | i | . | . | . |   |
+                     | o |   |   |   |   |
+                     | n |   |   |   |   |
+  TO WHOM BELONGING. | s |   |   |   |   |
+                     | . |   |   |   |   |
+  -------------------|---|---|---|---|---|
+  Government         | 1 | 2 | - | 2 | 2 |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Governor           | - | 1 | 3 | - | 2 |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Lieut.-Governor    | - | - | - | - | - |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Officers & men   } | - | - | - | - | 1 |
+  of the detachment} |   |   |   |   |   |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Staff              | - | - | - | - | - |
+                     |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Other individuals  | - | - | - | - | - |
+  -------------------|---|---|---|---|---|
+       Totals        | 1 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 5 |
+
+                    |  Sheep.   | G | H | P | R | T | G | D | F | C |
+                    |           | o | o | i | a | u | e | u | o | h |
+                    |           | a | g | g | b | r | e | c | w | i |
+                    |           | t | s | s | b | k | s | k | l | c |
+                    |           | s | . | . | i | e | e | s | s | k |
+                    |           | . |   |   | t | y | . | . | . | e |
+                    |           |   |   |   | s | s |   |   |   | n |
+                    |           |   |   |   | . | . |   |   |   | s |
+  TO WHOM BELONGING.|           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   | . |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  ------------------+-----------|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
+  Government        |{Ram     1 |  1| 20| - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
+                    |{Ewes   12 |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+                    |{Wethers 3 |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Governor          |{Ewe     1 | - | 10| - |  3|  5|  8| 17| 22| - |
+                    |{Lamb    1 |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Lieut.-Governor   |   -       |  1|  1|  7| - |  5|  6|  4|  9| - |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Officers & men   }|   -       | 12| 10| 17|  2|  6|  9|  8| 55| 25|
+  of the detachment}|           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Staff             |   -    11 |  5|  7|  1| - |  2|  6|  6| 36| 62|
+                    |           |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |   |
+  Other individuals |   -       | - |  1| - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
+  ------------------+-----------|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
+       Totals       |        29 | 19| 49| 25|  5| 18| 29| 35|122| 87|
+
+At present there are in this colony, 180,000 horses, 2,148,660 cattle, and
+109,160 pigs.
+
+[23] The sheep-breeders of the colony competed for the honour of
+purchasing these valuable animals.
+
+[24] The distance of the various gold-fields from Sydney and the various
+harbours of the colony is as follows. _Western Gold-fields_,--Bathurst 110
+miles, Sofala 140, Orange 141, Ophir 146, Mudgee 155, Tambaroora 157,
+Meroo 160, Louisa Creek 176, Tuena 190. _Southern_,--Goulburn 125,
+Queanbeyan 182, Braidwood 184, Bill's Creek 190, Araleun 200, Sundagai
+244, Cooma 254, Tumut 264, Adelong 273, Albury 286, Obin's River 410,
+Kiandra or Guoroy River, over Twofold Bay and Bambula, 240 miles.
+_Northern_,--Hangus Rock 304, Bingera Creek 365, Rocky River 357, Tamworth
+280, Timbarra 67 miles from Clarence River, _via_ Grafton, overland. The
+other gold-fields of the Clarence River District, such as Lubra, Toolam,
+Emu Creek, Pretty Gully, Sandy Creek, Table Land, Nelson's Creek, &c., are
+80 to 100 miles from the river.
+
+[25] The colony of New South Wales consisted at that period of the entire
+land comprised between Cape York in 11 deg. 37' S. to South Cape, 43 deg. 30' S.,
+and as far as 135 deg. E. in the interior to the westward, including all
+islands adjoining, comprised within those degrees of latitude.
+
+[26] Die Deportation als Strafmittel in alter und neuer Zeit, und die
+Verbrecher-Colonien der Englaender und Franzosen in ihrer geschichtlichen
+Entwickelung und criminal-politischen Bedeutung. Dargestellt von Franz v.
+Holtzendorf, &c. Leipzig, A. Barth. 1859.
+
+[27] The cost of transport of each convict was to be reckoned at L18.
+
+[28] This Archipelago, remarkable by the size and loftiness of its
+islands, extends from Batoa or South Island in the S.E. (19 deg. 47' S. by
+179 deg. 52' E.), to Thicombea to the N. (15 deg. 47' S.), and Biva to the W.
+(176 deg. 50' E.), and contains 225 islands and islets, of which about 80 are
+inhabited. The entire superficial area is about 5700 square miles, and
+upon a superficial estimate it contains 150,000 souls. The climate seems
+to be eminently suitable for cotton culture, besides which sugar-cane,
+coffee, tobacco, arrow-root, and most probably rice and indigo, may be
+advantageously cultivated. Berchthold Seemann, the well-known botanist,
+who made a scientific exploration of some of the Feejee Islands at the
+expense of the English Government in the Autumn of 1860, discovered in the
+valleys of Naona forests of the sago palm, whose nutritious flour might
+become an important article of export. Dr. Petermann published in the
+latter half of 1861, at page 67 of his valuable "particulars of certain
+important recent discoveries in geography," an interesting synopsis of all
+the latest scientific information respecting the Feejee Archipelago.
+
+
+                          [Illustration: Maori]
+
+
+
+
+                                  XIX.
+
+                                Auckland.
+
+         Stay from 22nd December, 1858, to 8th January, 1859.
+
+    Request preferred by the Colonial Government to have the
+    coal-fields of the Drury District thoroughly examined by the
+    geologists of the _Novara_.--Geographical remarks concerning New
+    Zealand.--Auckland.--The Aborigines or Maori.--A Mass meeting.--
+    Maori legends.--Manners and customs of the Aborigines.--The
+    Meri-Meri.--Most important of the vegetable esculents of the
+    Aborigines before the arrival of the Europeans.--Dr. Thomson's
+    anthropological investigations.--Maori proverbs and poetry.--The
+    present war and its origin.--The Maori king.--Decay of the
+    native population and its supposed causes.--Advantages held out
+    by New Zealand to European emigration.--Excursion to the
+    Waiatarna valley.--Maori village of Oraki.--Kauri forests in the
+    Manukau range.--Mr. Smith's farm in Titarangi.--St. John's
+    College.--Intellectual activity in Auckland.--New Zealand silk.--
+    Excursion to the coal-fields of the Drury and Hunua Districts.--
+    New Year's Eve at the Antipodes.--Dr. Hochstetter remains in New
+    Zealand.--The Catholic mission in Auckland.--Two Maories take
+    service as seamen on board the _Novara_.--Departure.--The
+    results of the explorations of the geologist during his stay at
+    the island.--Crossing the meridian of 180 deg. from West to East.--
+    The same day reckoned twice.--The sight of the islands of Tahiti
+    and Eimeo.--Arrival in the harbour of Papeete.
+
+
+Great was the interest excited at the Antipodes by the arrival of the
+_Novara_, for besides the importance for European emigration of a country
+possessing a healthy climate, a fertile soil, and but thinly peopled, it
+was most gratifying to the members of the first Austrian Expedition to see
+much hitherto unsuspected natural wealth made known to the inhabitants by
+one of their scientific staff, and thus to prove of use to a nation which
+in almost every part of the globe has so incontestably borne away the palm
+in advancing the interests of science and the development of the treasures
+of the earth.
+
+Immediately after our arrival in Auckland, the Governor of the colony,
+Colonel Gore Browne, renewed the request, previously made in his name to
+our Commodore while at Sydney by Sir William Denison, that he would permit
+our geologist to make a proper scientific examination of a portion of the
+Drury District, in which there were certain indications supposing to point
+to the existence of coal-fields. Upon his report would depend the
+exploration and the establishing of a regular system of working the mines.
+The little Expedition to the coal-fields, which was most munificently
+equipped by the Government, proved successful beyond all expectation, so
+much so as to induce the Governor to beg of our Commodore the further
+favour of permitting our geologist to make a still longer stay on the
+island, for the purpose of more accurately and completely surveying the
+dependency. The negotiations upon this subject, fraught with such happy
+results for both parties, will be found in the Appendix, while at the end
+of this chapter we shall give a succinct sketch of what was accomplished
+in the interests of science by the activity of Dr. Hochstetter, our
+geologist, during his stay in New Zealand, the more copious details of his
+eight months' stay at the Antipodes being reserved for a special volume.
+
+New Zealand consists of two large islands separated from each other by
+Cook's Straits, a splendid channel, 150 miles long by 50 in width, and the
+two smaller islands, called Stewart's and Chatham Islands, about 50 by 20,
+separated by Foveau Straits, the latter lying in the ocean about 400 miles
+south-west of the province of Canterbury.
+
+The entire group extends from 34 deg. to 48 deg. S., and 166 deg. to 179 deg. E. The
+greatest extent of land, from N.E. to S.W., i. e. from Cape Maria Van
+Diemen to South Cape, is over 1000 miles. The greatest breadth, along the
+parallel of 38 deg. S. is about 200 miles, while the coast-line is several
+thousand miles in extent. By the constitution of 1853, New Zealand is
+divided into six chief provinces:--Auckland, New Plymouth (Taranaki), and
+Wellington in the north island, and Nelson, Canterbury, and Otago, in the
+central islands, since which period two new provinces have been
+added,--Hawk Bay in the north island, and Marlborough in the middle
+island.
+
+None of the remaining seven, however, is so important or possesses such
+geographical advantages as Auckland. Its coast-line is upwards of 900
+nautical miles, while its more important rivers, such as the Waikato,
+Waipa, Waiho (called also the Thames), Piako, and Wairao, are navigable
+for small boats far into the interior. Of its 28 harbours, four, viz. Bay
+of Islands, Auckland, Wangaroa, and Middle Harbour, are accessible
+throughout the year for large ships, besides offering secure anchorage;
+but of the remainder only eight will admit vessels of 400 tons, while the
+balance can only be used by small brigs and schooners.
+
+Auckland, the capital, lies on an isthmus about six miles in width,
+dividing Waitemata Harbour from that of Manukau, the first being beyond
+all question the best harbour on the east side, the former on the west.
+These two harbours furnish moreover, by the numerous streams and creeks
+that disembogue into them, most excellent means of communication with the
+interior. The products of the country through a region of 100 miles are
+conveyed to Waitemata by the Waiho and Piako rivers, while on the other
+hand the Waikato and Waipa rivers bring to the harbour of Manukau the
+natural products from 120 miles inland. At a comparatively small cost a
+cut might be carried through the isthmus, at a point where it is only a
+mile and a half wide, and direct water communication be thus effected
+between the two harbours, to the manifest advantage of the country and
+capital. At present the mail steamer, which comes from Sydney once a month
+with the European letters, berths in Manukau Harbour, near Onehunga, on
+account of the greater convenience of that harbour, and its being at a
+much less distance, whence the mails are transported in coaches across
+the isthmus to Auckland. Onehunga is a flourishing settlement, with
+interesting volcanic formations. The road thither lies through a fertile
+rolling country, which is, for the most part, reclaimed and under
+cultivation, or else depastured by large herds of handsome, powerful oxen.
+The three land-marks of the landscape are:--Three King's Hill, Mount Eden,
+and One Tree Hill. All these, of moderate elevation, were formerly crowned
+with _pahs_ or native fortified villages, and were once inhabited by a
+large population, as is evidenced to this day by the quantities of human
+bones found in the lava below, and by several singular terrace-like
+artificial earth-works. The cottages of the settlers are handsome and
+clean, but of singularly small dimensions, very much the result we suppose
+of the dearness of building material and the high price of labour near
+Auckland.
+
+According to the census of 1857 the entire population of New Zealand
+amounted to 108,204,[29] the white European population numbering 52,155,
+of whom 16,315 persons inhabited Auckland (9038 men, and 7277 women).
+
+The aborigines (Maori in the native tongue) are officially returned at
+56,049, of whom by far the larger number, above 38,000, inhabit the
+province of Auckland. Of all the savage races with whom England has come
+in contact in the course of her mighty struggles to open trade and raise
+humanity, the New Zealanders have hitherto proved themselves to be the
+most susceptible of European civilization. More than five-sixths of their
+number are already Christians, and have been baptized, and, settled down
+in comfortable residences, maintain themselves by agriculture or
+sailoring. More than one hundred vessels built in the colony are owned by
+natives, who not alone have in their hands a considerable portion of the
+coasting trade, but carry on business with the adjoining islands, as also
+with New South Wales. While Bushmen, Hottentots, Caffres, Australian
+negroes, all, like the Indian tribes of Canada and the United States,
+present the helpless type of misery and decay, all the indications here
+seem to promise that the splendid spectacle will be presented of one of
+the most savage, yet highly gifted, races of the globe being raised in the
+scale of humanity by education and culture, and brought permanently within
+the scale of civilization. Whoever has followed with critical eye the
+immense increase of this colony during the last twenty years, must indulge
+this cheering anticipation not less confidently than the traveller who has
+traversed the entire island totally unmolested, has been cordially
+welcomed in every hut, has encountered everywhere schools and Christian
+missions, and has seen the natives occupied solely with the avocations of
+peace. Those native chiefs, who from contact with civilization had already
+adopted the outward deportment and mode of life of the European settlers,
+omitted no opportunity of confessing in language of fire the
+consciousness of their former moral degradation, and of holding the
+European up for admiration, as the founder of a new era of morality and
+humanity in their country; nay, one Maori, who is now a zealous missionary
+in the interior of the island, once avowed to his hearers that he had
+himself as a boy eaten human flesh, and had first learned through the
+influence of Christianity to comprehend the abominations and wild-beast
+ferocity of his previous state, after which he had begun to lead a life
+more worthy of the dignity of manhood.
+
+The members of our Expedition also enjoyed the opportunity of attending a
+Mass-meeting of Maories in the Takapuna district on the north shore of
+Waitemata Harbour, where they gathered, from the orations of the most
+influential chiefs and speakers, the liveliest conviction of their
+fidelity and attachment to the Queen of England and her government. We
+insert here a pretty full description of this remarkable meeting, as well
+as a brief sketch of the most interesting manners and customs of the
+aborigines of New Zealand, in order to enlighten the reader as to the
+justice of the universally expressed distrust of the capacity of the Maori
+for civilization, and the more readily to form an idea of the alarm and
+astonishment of the English Government, on being suddenly informed that
+the entire native population had rose in arms against the European
+settlers.
+
+A wealthy and much-respected chief, named Patuoni, has been in the habit
+for many years past of inviting all the friendly tribes residing in his
+neighbourhood, as well as the most distinguished of the white settlers,
+to a great popular fete every Christmas. The intelligence that on the
+present occasion the "Kavana" (Governor), or Commander of one of Queen
+Victoria's allies, would attend with a numerous suite, had caused much
+agreeable excitement among the Maori, and they offered to send some
+war-canoes and two whale-boats to the coast opposite in order to convey
+the guests. The staff of the Expedition were however already at the place
+of meeting in the Takapuna district, when the war-canoes arrived at the
+usual place of embarkation in Auckland. Here we saw a number of large
+tents pitched on an eminence, and gaily adorned with English and other
+flags, under which were very long narrow tables, about two feet high,
+covered with neat little baskets elegantly woven of the leaves of the New
+Zealand flax, in which were cooked potatoes, roast-pork, and fish. The
+guests, 300 or 400 in number, sat on the ground, which was thickly covered
+with fern freshly gathered, some sitting cross-legged, others squatting on
+their heels, zealously excavating the food with their fingers, for the use
+of forks has not yet become a fashion among the Maori. The chief beverage
+was tea, and all around on the grass adjoining the tent might be seen
+improvised fire-places, on every one of which a huge kettle of boiling
+water was singing. The gait and extravagance however of but too many
+indicated that less harmless drinks were being supplied close by. Each as
+soon as he had finished his repast lighted his pipe, and mingled with the
+groups that were chatting about. Tobacco smoking has become a positive
+passion with both sexes, and even among the children of the poorer classes
+it is no unusual thing to see the infant carried in the arms coolly take
+the pipe out of its mother's mouth and begin to smoke it! The earthen
+pipe, broken off so short that there is barely sufficient to enable the
+teeth to take hold,--in one word, summing up everything to English
+ears--the "cuttie"--is most in favour.
+
+Scarcely was it rumoured that the Commander of the Austrian frigate with
+his staff were at hand, ere the whole crowd, which up to that moment had
+been abandoning itself to enjoyment, suddenly dispersed _pele-mele_ in
+wildest confusion. The gay flags were removed from the tent-peaks, and
+made to veil the scene of uproar; a quick but monotonous song, alternating
+with measured stamping with the feet, was droned out, the chiefs
+brandishing aloft and swinging with wild gesticulations their costly clubs
+(_meri-meri_, literally "Fire of the Gods"), made of primitive rock. Each
+Maori who had a club beside him swung it with wild gesticulation, while
+the rest tossed in the air the ends of their woollen garments. In order to
+give us a more complete idea of their ancient customs, a war-dance
+succeeded to this, in which men, women, and children took a part. Although
+this is nothing but a confused advance and retreat of two bodies of people
+arranged opposite each other in regular order, who suddenly rush towards
+each other with impetuous vehemence and loud discordant cries, yet the
+wild shrieks, the rapid motions of those who took part in it, the rolling
+of the eyes, the protrusion of the tongues, combined to make a formidable
+impression, and to give some idea of the frightful appearance of these
+warriors, when, instead of simulated rage, they were animated by the
+ferocity of real warfare with the foe! As soon as symptoms of lassitude
+and fatigue began to be visible among the war-dancers they arranged
+themselves, at the command of the old chief, Patuoni, on both sides, three
+ranks deep, and permitted the strangers to pass from end to end of the
+camp. Here we were once more welcomed in genuine New Zealand fashion by
+the various chiefs, some of whom endeavoured to strike up a conversation.
+Mr. W. Baker, Government interpreter, and Secretary to the Native
+Department, who had been desired by Government to attend the _Novara_
+staff to the feast, was so kind as to translate.
+
+The first to emerge from the ranks was Paora Tuhaera of Oraki, who spoke
+as follows: "Welcome, O chief from a foreign shore, messenger of a king
+and a nation of which we only lately have heard tell! Our English friends
+explained to us that your countrymen have long been friends and allies of
+the British people, whose Queen is our protectress, and under whose laws
+we live in undisturbed tranquillity on our own lands. You are a stranger
+among us! You for the first time behold a race whose fathers passed their
+lives in ignorance, in war, in the practice of every evil custom. You have
+been present at this place and witnessed how we sought once to give vent
+to our passions and to scare our enemies. This spectacle you saw in
+peace, and no man ventured or even thought of lifting the hand against
+you! Yet had you come among us at the period of which I spoke, our arm
+would have been raised to inflict the deadly blow upon you, or your hand,
+which I have just pressed, would have been striking at me to compass my
+destruction! You have seen many lands, many perhaps fairer than this
+island of ours; but here there is nothing to injure us or to make us wish
+to live in other countries. The laws of England shield us from the hand of
+the aggressor, we live happy and at peace, and rejoice to welcome those
+who, like you, come to us on a mission of good will!"
+
+This speech and the two following, the Commodore responded to in English,
+in terms of warm cordial thanks, and enlarged on the material and
+intellectual progress of the aborigines, all which was duly translated by
+Mr. Baker to the Maories.
+
+After this Cruera Patuoni of Awataha, an elder brother of
+Tamati-Waka-Neni, advanced and said: "Welcome! welcome! The young men have
+welcomed you, and I, an old man, a friend of the Europeans from the
+earliest days in which they planted foot in New Zealand, I also bid you
+welcome! What can I say more? You have heard what we were,--you see now
+what we are! It needs not that I should add to what has been said by those
+who spoke before me. Welcome then to the land of the Maories, friends of
+the white man."
+
+After several more of the younger chiefs had greeted the Commodore and
+staff in the most hearty manner, Hui Haupapa, of colossal stature and
+frank expression of countenance, made with his powerful arm a passage for
+himself through the compact crowd, placed himself in a somewhat theatrical
+position, and began in a loud voice, and in evident excitement,
+brandishing his meri-meri as he spoke:--
+
+"The chiefs of this neighbourhood have welcomed thee. My tribe lives far
+from here, but _I_ am here, and I bid thee welcome! Thou hast said we are
+happy and live at peace. It is true the laws of our Queen have contributed
+to this fortunate state of things. Formerly, war, murder, and spilling of
+blood formed our chief occupation. Even now troubles arise, which it is
+often difficult to smooth over. Just as thou wert landing we were engaged
+reading a letter informing us that a dispute of long standing between the
+Ngatiwhatua and the Uriohare threatened to give rise to a war. Were we
+still in our old Maori state we should assuredly have had recourse to arms
+for its settlement, but the two tribes will remember that the laws do not
+permit one family of our Queen's children to make war against another, and
+they will therefore restrain their anger in the hope that their
+differences may be amicably arranged. But what interest have these things
+for you? You came to us in peace and friendliness, take with you the love
+of the entire assembly, which is proud of having been visited by an
+officer of the great king, who is a friend of Queen Victoria and her
+children."
+
+The natives, who were standing closely packed on either side, and listened
+in breathless silence, expressed their acquiescence by head and hand at
+the end of each oration. The manner in which they are accustomed to
+express themselves at these assemblies is quite unique. The speaker plants
+himself at a distance of about ten steps from his audience, whom he
+gradually approaches in his speech till within three feet, when he turns
+round in silence, resumes his former distance, and begins anew. This
+custom has several advantages; it gives the orator time to collect his
+thoughts, while his eloquence has time to sink into the heart of his
+hearers. Each speaker advances his opinions and sentiments with singular
+calmness and dignity. Only at certain "points," which seem to him to be of
+importance, does the orator throw up his right hand, while on his left
+arm, hanging by his side, lies his stone club, without which no chief
+would think of addressing a meeting.
+
+During these speeches we had drawn near the groups surrounding us. The
+majority were dressed in European clothes, the chiefs usually wearing a
+black cap with gold band, the rest in the most various costumes,
+apparently as accident or caprice had dictated their choice. The old men
+were tattooed more or less, according to their rank, strongly contrasting
+with their European habiliments. The elder women, except that they were
+bare-footed, were mostly clad in European dress, some even in elegant
+silks and muslins, and had their lips and chins tattooed, whereas the
+young folk of both sexes no longer followed that custom, and hence we
+frequently had occasion to remark exceedingly agreeable features. Only a
+very small number of aborigines seemed to be contented with their own
+national dress, and wore either the universal blanket, or else the Cacahu,
+a handsome kind of cloak, very artistically made by the Maori women from
+the fibres of the New Zealand flax. All had the flaps of their ears
+pierced, and a piece of oval-shaped rock passed through the orifice, or
+were adorned with shark's teeth, which are usually made fast to a narrow
+black silk ribbon. As we inspected some of these groups, and especially
+were admiring their splendid figures, we came upon two individuals who had
+hid their heads under their blankets, and were weeping bitterly. To our
+inquiry as to the cause of their uncontrollable grief amid such a festive
+gathering, we were told that they were two relatives who had long been
+separated, and were thus celebrating their meeting again. Friends and
+relations usually express their joy at seeing each other again by sitting
+for hours together, according to their friendship or esteem, rubbing noses
+and sobbing bitterly, and weeping over each other the while! If unobserved
+this will go on with uncovered head; otherwise they will draw a blanket
+over themselves. Kissing and hand-shaking have only become a fashion among
+the New Zealanders since their more intimate intercourse with Europeans.
+
+As we withdrew from this singular never-to-be-forgotten people's festival,
+and were on our way to our boats, the entire merry multitude assembled on
+the slope in front of the tents, and to show, it may be supposed, that
+they were not unacquainted with the usages of other countries, gave, with
+genuine English good-will, three rousing hurrahs in honour of the
+departing guests!
+
+The study of the language and history of the traditions, habits, and
+morals of the aborigines of New Zealand, must necessarily be of special
+interest on account of our presumed acquaintance with the race they are
+descended from, and the important conclusions thence deducible as to the
+settlement of Polynesia at large.
+
+A Maori legend relates that their first progenitors came in seven canoes
+from the island of Hawaiki (i. e. cradle of the race), one of the Sandwich
+Islands, 4000 miles to the N.E. of New Zealand.[30] These canoes had
+outriggers to prevent foundering, and were called Amatiatia, whereas those
+they now use, which are also of very simple construction, are named Wakka,
+and have evidently borrowed their form from the dried seed of the New
+Zealand honey-suckle (_Rewarewa_). The first canoe that came from Hawaiki
+was named Arawa. It brought over Honmaitawiti, Tamakekapua, Toi, Maka,
+Hei, Jhenga, Tauninihi, Rongokako, and others, and these were the first
+settlers from whom the New Zealanders are descended.
+
+One of the earlier authors respecting these isles of the Antipodes,
+Richard Taylor, the missionary, relates that in 1840 there was living in
+the village of Para-para, on the road from Kaitaia to Doubtless Bay, an
+aged New Zealand chief named Hahakai, who was thoroughly conversant with
+the history of his native land, and used to enumerate twenty-six
+generations since the first arrival on the island of the ancestors of his
+tribe. Taylor is of opinion, however, that a number of these generations
+must be considered as divinities, and that hardly more than fifteen
+generations or five hundred years can have elapsed since the first
+vagrants from the north settled in New Zealand.[31] At that period they
+knew neither the custom of Taboo (the sanctity and inviolability of all
+things) nor cannibalism, both of which customs they first began to
+practise in their adopted country. As the aborigines before the arrival of
+the Europeans possessed no written language, these traditions were usually
+handed down from father to son, while one or more relatives of the more
+influential families of each tribe were duly set apart to study their
+traditions, as well as their laws (_tikanga_) and religious ceremonies.
+The persons thus educated supplied for them the place of annals, books of
+laws, or written precedents.
+
+Both Taylor and Dieffenbach incline to the opinion of older authors
+respecting these twin islands, namely, that at the period when these
+immigrants from the north arrived there, they were inhabited by another
+dark race of a different descent. Against this hypothesis, however, there
+is to be urged that not the slightest vestige of any such race can be
+produced, in addition to which there is but one language spoken throughout
+the extent of the islands, with dialects few in number and hardly
+differing from each other. In none of the many Maori legends is any
+mention made, either express or implied, of any such circumstance, which
+one would think would hardly have been passed over in silence, had the
+islands at the first landing of the emigrants from Hawaiki been inhabited
+by another race. The great disparity in physical frame between
+individuals, recalling now the Malay, now the Chinese type, and even the
+African and Jewish as well, is much more probably explained by the
+intermixture of the New Zealanders with the inhabitants of the various
+island groups, which they visited at the period of their migration.
+
+The Maories are on the whole a handsome race of men, well-built and
+powerful, generally not less in stature than the Europeans, whom they
+resemble somewhat in their complexion, which gives the idea rather of
+being embrowned than naturally brown, by their thin, weak hair, sometimes
+black, sometimes of a chesnut brown, and whom they closely approach in
+their features. Indeed full-blood Maories sometimes have such a European
+aspect, that even the numberless tattoo marks upon their faces do not
+destroy the impression, but have rather the appearance of those "painted
+faces" we are accustomed to see in actors, when they wish to give their
+countenances a more effective cast upon the boards.
+
+The custom of tattooing, or "Moko," is one of those most characteristic of
+this remarkable people, and is worth being described in detail, inasmuch
+as it has been almost entirely discontinued since the diffusion of
+Christianity, for, according to the sentiments of the missionaries, every
+native, henceforth, who submits to this operation is held to have
+renounced Christianity, and to have openly dubbed himself a heathen. It
+has been suggested as the most probable explanation of the rapid spread of
+this painful practice, that the "Moko" imparts to the countenance a
+sterner expression in presence of the enemy, and that the Maori women
+attach more importance to the caresses of a tattooed man than of one whose
+visage is unmarked. Possibly tattooing was a symbol of puberty in both
+sexes, and a token of their being of marriageable age.
+
+At first they contented themselves with marking the face with certain
+straight lines, called by the natives Moko-Kuri, which was the stage it
+had attained when Cook visited these islands. The present complicated
+system of tattooing was first introduced by one of the tribes of the east
+coast by a certain Mataora, and the first man whose face was thus tattooed
+was named Onetunga.
+
+Usually this painful operation is performed by a priest (_Tohunga_), who
+paints, or rather sketches out, one of the many different models with
+black colouring matter upon the face of the person to be tattooed, having
+first obtained his opinion, by showing him his visage reflected in a
+tub-full of water for lack of a mirror. As soon as the latter has
+signified his assent to the design selected, the further process is begun.
+
+The instruments used were the following:--
+
+The "Uhi," a small piece of wood, one extremity of which is armed with a
+small piece of sharp-edged bone, set in a vertical direction. This
+needle-like tool, which was formerly made either of human bones or of
+those of the albatross, has been since supplanted by proper steel
+instruments.
+
+The "Ta" or "Tuki," a stalk of fern, which is pressed upon the Uhi in
+order that it might enter the skin, and bring out the desired pattern.
+
+The necessary colouring stuff (_Ngarahu_) is made from the soot of the
+wood, when burnt, of the Kauri fir (_Dammara Australis_), which is
+collected in the leaves of the Ti-reed (_Cordyline Australis_), and is
+prepared with an infusion of the bark of the Hinau (_Elaeocarpus Hinau_),
+in the form of small cones.
+
+Immediately before the tattooing begins, the colouring matter thus
+prepared is moistened with the juice of the fruit of Tupa-kihi (_Coriaria
+Sarmentosa_). The complete "Moko" comprises the face, the hips, and the
+upper surface of the thigh as far as the knee. Every separate tattooing
+has its appropriate name and its special position. Dieffenbach counts 17,
+and Richmond Taylor 19 of these, distinguishable by their several
+markings.
+
+The operation is of so severe a nature, that very frequently it cannot be
+completed without endangering the life of the individual. Only one
+instance is on record, in which a native sat out the whole formidable
+process at one sitting, and he died just as the last line was finished.
+Usually the first tattooing took place at the 18th year, and was continued
+at various intervals. During the process, the patient lies on the ground
+with his head reposing on the bosom of the _Tohunga_, who holds the "Uhi"
+in his left hand, and the "Ta" or "Tuki" in his right, which he strikes
+upon the former with a rapid constant motion. As soon as an incision is
+made, the blood is wiped off with a piece of fine flax, and the colouring
+matter rubbed in. While this is going on the priests and the friends
+standing by keep up a continual chant, in order to cheer the patient and
+stimulate his courage.
+
+After the operation the face swells, and for some time presents a
+downright hideous appearance, and instances have occurred in which it has
+been permanently distorted. Usually, however, the wounds heal after ten or
+twelve days, when the incised lines made by the "Uhi" present a
+bluish-black appearance.
+
+With the women the operation is much more simple, being confined to one
+or two vertical or horizontal lines upon the lip and chin. This tattooing
+occasionally, however, takes place twice, in order to bring out a black
+colour, as the New Zealanders consider a black lip as the very ideal of
+beauty. It also figures as such in the songs chanted by the Tohunga on
+such occasions, of which the following stanzas may be presented as a
+specimen:--
+
+    Be ready, my daughter, to have thyself marked,
+    To tattoo thy chin!
+    That, when thou crossest the threshold of a strange house,
+    They may not say, "Whence cometh this ugly woman?"
+
+    Be ready, my daughter, to have thyself marked,
+    To tattoo thy chin!
+    That thou mayst have a comely aspect,
+    That when thou art bidden to a feast,
+    They may not ask, "Whence cometh this _red-lipped_ woman?"
+
+    To make thyself beautiful
+    Come and be tattooed!
+    That when thou dost enter the circle of dancers,
+    They may not ask, "Whence cometh this woman with the ugly lips?"
+
+The Tohunga is usually well remunerated, and frequently in the course of
+his chant makes allusion to the amount of reward he expects, and indeed
+sometimes stimulates the generosity of his patient by singing amongst
+other ditties, something like
+
+    "The man who is paid well
+    Tattoos beautifully!
+    The man who receives nothing
+    Does not tattoo well!"
+
+The marks, when completely brought out, are so manifold and various that
+hardly any two New Zealanders are to be found who are tattooed entirely
+alike. Accordingly these markings serve neither to indicate variety of
+tribe, nor difference of rank. A slave, if he possess the means, may have
+his face tattooed with the same ornaments as his master. However it
+appears, as we were informed by Colonel Browne, that on the occasion of
+the chiefs ratifying the treaty with the English, they superscribed the
+various documents with the lines upon their faces, like so much heraldic
+blazonry, instead of writing their names.
+
+Another remarkable custom of the Maori consists in the right of the priest
+to declare certain persons and things _taboo_, that is, consecrated and
+inviolable. This custom, which is nothing else than a religious ordinance
+instituted for political purposes, is frequently most beneficial in its
+consequences. So great and universal was the respect paid to the law of
+_taboo_, that even hostile tribes were in the habit during war of leaving
+unharmed all persons and things thus protected. A plot of ground planted
+with esculents, a fruit tree, a sick person, a "lady in the straw,"--all
+these were so many objects declared holy and inviolate.
+
+Formerly polygamy was tolerably frequent among the Maori, although
+instances were by no means rare in which a man had but one wife to whom he
+continued faithful. At present this custom, incompatible with the
+Christian notion of the family tie, is confined to those few chiefs who
+are still heathens.
+
+Usually the young men and girls marry very young. English travellers state
+they have seen a mother only 11 years of age! Usually the first wife of a
+young chief is much older than himself, but, on the other hand, instances
+were frequent of old men marrying young girls. The daughters of men of
+very high rank frequently remained unmarried.
+
+The mortality among infants under a year old is very great. At present not
+more than three children are reckoned to each family, and the number of
+barren marriages is much greater than those that prove fruitful.
+
+Infanticide is at present as rare as in Europe. In former times,
+especially during the wars of the interior, it was by no means unusual for
+a mother to put her children to death, especially if females, in order to
+spare herself the trouble of nursing and bringing up. Male offspring, on
+the contrary, were taken more care of, because they would increase the
+aggressive power of the tribe, and were looked upon as the avengers of
+injuries sustained and not yet compensated. Illegitimate children they
+almost always put to death, either by strangling them or compressing the
+mouth and nostrils. The practice of infanticide among the weaker sex took
+its rise chiefly in the life of slavery which was the normal state of the
+women during their heathen condition. Such was the reasoning once avowed
+by a murderess of her child:--"Why should my child live? to be brought up
+as the slave of the wives of my husband, to be beaten and kicked by them!"
+
+There seems to be some mistake in the assertion of several writers upon
+the customs prevalent in New Zealand, to the effect that on the death of a
+Maori it is customary to sacrifice his nearest relatives. Only when a
+great chief dies, are some of his slaves occasionally put to death at the
+same time, that their spirits may accompany him who has preceded them to
+the shadowy land, to serve him there, and execute his commands as they did
+while on earth.
+
+So too it occasionally happened that, on the death of a much-esteemed
+chief, a hostile incursion was made by a number of warriors, in order to
+provide a victim from another tribe, and thus make it feel the same pang
+as that which they were suffering in the loss of their chief. Suicide, on
+the death of a near relative, is even at present far from uncommon as a
+token of inconsolable grief. A low estimate of the value of life seems to
+be a leading feature in the character of the New Zealander; it needs but a
+slight cause to make him take his own life or plunge into some abyss.
+
+Slavery, to the extent that existed among the aborigines in former times,
+is no longer to be found, though many prisoners taken in war are still
+held as slaves by their captors. In many cases the slaves prefer to stay
+with their present masters, if they have been well treated, rather than
+return among their own race, from whom they feel themselves estranged,
+and by whom it is probable they have long been forgotten.
+
+The introduction of Christianity was immediately followed by the
+manumission of all slaves throughout the islands. Under the old laws, the
+owner of a slave was undisputed master of his person and property, and
+might put him to death, or sell him,--in short, do with him as he pleased.
+Everything that the slave possessed belonged to his master. Slaves were
+usually made in battle, either during the storming of a fortified village,
+or _pah_, or during flight before a victorious enemy. Each warrior might
+take as many prisoners as he could, who thereupon became his incontestable
+property. Chiefs, however, and youths of rank were usually put to death on
+the spot.
+
+The offspring of such prisoners of war were also slaves, and equally the
+property of their masters. However, it frequently happened that a young
+slave married a girl of the tribe of his conqueror, in which case their
+offspring were no longer considered as slaves, although they were reputed
+of low rank. According to the old Maori laws, there were no slaves other
+than those taken in war and their descendants.
+
+Among the free Maori, there are a number of varying grades; but the
+principles on which they are bestowed do not seem as yet to have been
+accurately ascertained by any European observers. Any individual who is
+able to trace his descent from distinguished parentage of either sex, has
+the right to assume the title of a chief. As a rule, the elder branch of a
+family takes precedence over the younger. The heir-male was always
+regarded as the head of the family, and in the olden times was its priest
+or _tohunga_.
+
+The wars of the Maori were chiefly carried on with spears and clubs of
+various shapes and sizes, but since the arrival of the Europeans the use
+of fire-arms has become almost universal. Hangi, one of the most renowned
+and formidable chiefs, who visited England in 1826, on his return
+exchanged all the splendid presents made him by George IV. for European
+fire-arms and ammunition, in order the more readily to subjugate all the
+races on the island by means of these new and dangerous weapons, and make
+himself omnipotent. Since that period the older warlike implements
+(_taiaha_, _paki_, _ehi_) have only been kept as objects of curiosity for
+the various chiefs to show.
+
+But the most remarkable weapon of the New Zealanders, which was held by
+the chiefs in high honour as an emblem of rank, a sceptre so to speak, and
+which descended from generation to generation, is a piece of nephrite
+beautifully polished, from 10 to 20 inches long, 4 to 5 inches broad, and
+half an inch thick, called by the natives Meri-meri, "the fire of the
+gods," which is pierced at one end, and is usually attached to a cord
+passed round the hand. In the days of heathenism the Meri-meri was used
+occasionally as a weapon of defence, as also to scalp prisoners.
+
+The various weapons of nephrite that we had an opportunity of examining
+were of a pale green colour, which became transparent at the sharp edge,
+which ran all round, and had a peculiar flame-like glow.
+
+The stone from which these costly weapons are made (the manufacture of
+which, in consequence of the dearth of suitable instruments before the
+arrival of the Europeans, was often the work of several generations), is
+found in loose fragments among the various mountain-streams along the west
+coast of the central island. The places where they are found in greatest
+abundance are Arahura and Ohonu on the N.W. coast, beyond Wakatipu, an
+inland lake, one of the sources of the river Matan, and Piopiotahi, a
+mountain-torrent on the S.W. coast. At the last-mentioned place, which,
+although we have little reliable information concerning it, has long been
+known to seal-hunters, a gigantic block of nephrite, many tons weight, was
+found in the middle of the current, which owing to its size was valueless,
+because useless to the aborigines. A sealer, who visited this coast once
+during a flying visit to Sydney, overheard a remark that this description
+of stone was much prized in China, and being aware of the existence of
+this colossal block of nephrite at Piopiotahi, he already beheld himself
+the possessor of considerable wealth. A company was quickly got up, with a
+merchant from Manila at the head, and a number of miners were forthwith
+sent to the spot, in order to blast the huge, unshapen rock into fragments
+admitting of easy transport. After immense labour and incredible hardships
+a few tons of the rock thus blasted were dispatched by the labourers to
+Manila for the purpose of being tested and examined. The workmen remained
+some months at Piopiotahi, anxiously awaiting intelligence of the results
+of their toil. At last, when they had about exhausted their provisions,
+and were still without intelligence, they buried the fruits of their
+exertions, and dispersed themselves among the small Maori settlements
+adjoining Foveau Straits.
+
+The samples of nephrite were duly sent from Manila to China, where they
+proved to be of very poor quality, being disfigured by small black specks.
+For some years after small quantities of nephrite were annually brought
+for sale from the Piopiotahi to Wellington, where they found plenty of
+purchasers among the natives of that district at about 1_s._ per lb.
+
+In former days the Maori used to make long and difficult journeys from the
+east to the west coast of the island, in search for the much-prized stone.
+When found it was usually shaped and polished by rubbing it upon a flat
+sandstone block; this operation was so long and arduous that its
+completion was often the work of two generations; and this is probably the
+main reason why such value is attached to it. The extraordinary hardness
+of the stone, which admits of its being ground to a very sharp edge, also
+made it an excellent substitute for iron in the manufacture of hatchets
+and chisels, the New Zealanders having only become acquainted with that
+metal since their intercourse with the Europeans.
+
+The shape which the Maories gave the Meri-meri when completed, resulting
+from the absence of implements with which to manipulate this stone, which
+is so hard that even iron does not bite it, probably gave rise to the
+notion that when found the stone is in a soft state. Sandstone, however,
+is found efficacious in the process just as it polishes iron also, and the
+holes requisite for suspending it, are made by the very simple process of
+drilling with a piece of pointed hard wood, with fine sand and a little
+water.
+
+Cannibalism may be said to have entirely ceased in New Zealand. Any
+allusion to this revolting practice is very painful to the New Zealander
+of the present day, as reminding him of his former low position in the
+scale of nations. Every time that we endeavoured to make any inquiry of
+the natives respecting this custom, they withdrew with an ashamed look.
+
+In like manner dog's flesh has ceased to be an article of food, ever since
+the introduction of pork by Captain Cook. Formerly the native or Maori
+dog, which at present is very scarce, was eaten on certain occasions,
+while its blood played a somewhat conspicuous part in Maori pharmacy.
+
+The vegetables most extensively used for food before the arrival of the
+Europeans were:--
+
+1. Raorao (_Pteris esculenta_), a fern three or four feet high, which
+covers vast tracts of land, and the root of which, before the introduction
+of the Peruvian potato, formed the chief subsistence of the Maori.
+
+2. Kumara (_Convolvulus Batata_), or sweet potato, the most valuable of
+New Zealand products. Various legends of adventure exist among the natives
+respecting its first introduction. The harvest-time for this plant is
+accompanied by a grand festival, and the fields in which the Kumara is
+grown, as well as the labourers engaged in raising it, were declared by
+the priests _taboo_, or consecrated. Of the varieties of the Kumara, one,
+the size of a yam-root, is named _Kai-pakeha_, or "white man's food," and
+is exceedingly palatable. The common potato (_Solanum tuberosum_) was
+first brought hither from the Cape of Good Hope, by Captain Cook, who
+planted it here.
+
+3. Mamaku (_Cyathea Medullaris_), one of the most elegant tree-ferns in
+the country, whose whole stalk, sometimes 20 feet high, is edible, and is
+sufficient to maintain a considerable number of persons. The pith of the
+Mamaku, when cooked and dried in the sun, is an excellent substitute for
+sago.
+
+Fermented liquors, like the Kawa of the South Sea Islanders, or the Chicha
+of the Indians of Southern and Central America, seem never to have been
+known to the New Zealanders.[32] The only fruits from which liquors are
+occasionally prepared are the Tawa (_Laurus Tawa_) and those of the
+Trepa-Kihi (_Coriaria Sarmentosa_), the latter of which, however, when the
+stamens of many are mingled together, is apt to be followed by symptoms of
+poisoning, resulting in violent convulsions and death.
+
+Although their short stay at Auckland, coupled with other indispensable
+business, did not admit making an adequate number of measurements of the
+physical proportions of both sexes of natives, we nevertheless had an
+opportunity of measuring some individuals, whose appearance seemed to
+present a very fair average.
+
+Here we ought to remark that many years ago, Dr. A. Thomson, surgeon of
+the 58th regiment, impressed apparently with the value of these
+experiments as aiding the diagnostics of various races of men, had made a
+great number of measurements of the natives during a long residence on the
+island. These, however, were mainly confined to height, weight, magnitude
+of chest, and physical strength of individuals, but which are of much
+value, having been compared at the time with similar results obtained from
+an equal number of British soldiers, thus furnishing most interesting
+standards of comparison for the two races. Dr. Thomson measured, for
+instance, the height of 147 natives, and found them to average 5 ft. 6-3/4
+inches. Of these, 35 measured 5 ft. 6 in. to 5 ft. 7 in.; 20 from 5 ft. 5
+in. to 5 ft. 6 in.; 2 from 5 ft. 11 in. to 6 ft.; one 6 ft. 1 in.; and one
+who measured 6 ft. 5-1/2 in. Of 617 men of the 58th regiment, the average
+height was 5 ft. 7-3/4 inches.
+
+Like the English, the Maories attain their full stature after they have
+completed their 20th year, the average height of 46 individuals between 16
+and 20 being 5 ft. 6 in., whereas of individuals between 21 and 25 it was
+5 ft. 6-3/4 inches, the average height of the human race in the temperate
+climes of Europe being 5 ft. 5 in. to 5 ft. 6 in., according to Haller.
+
+The weight of New Zealanders, as compared with that of English soldiers,
+gave the following remarkable result in the case of 150 men of both races
+who were examined at Auckland:--
+
+   8 Maories weighed more than 112 lbs., but less than 126 lbs.
+                                                              avoirdupois.
+  25   "       "      "    "   126 "     "    "    "   140  "       "
+  54   "       "      "    "   140 "     "    "    "   154  "       "
+  41   "       "      "    "   154 "     "    "    "   168  "       "
+  19   "       "      "    "   168 "     "    "    "   182  "       "
+   3   "       "      "    "   182 "     "    "    "   196  "       "
+
+The average weight of a Maori, deducting their mats and clothes, is about
+141 lbs.; of 617 Europeans (both English and Irish), who were weighed, the
+average weight was 143 lbs. Dr. Thompson found the natives under 21 less
+fully developed than soldiers of the same age, but after that the Maori
+began to turn the beam as regards weight.
+
+The girth of the chest, measured above the nipples, gave as the average of
+151 natives 35.36 inches; of 628 soldiers of the 58th regiment, 35.71
+inches. Between 16 and 20 the chest of the native is more than half an
+inch less than that of the European; a little later it is found to be
+about the same.
+
+In order to test the physical and muscular strength of the Maori, Dr.
+Thompson made them lift the utmost weights they could from the ground,
+with the following results from 31 individuals on whom he experimented:--
+
+  6 New Zealanders lifted 410 to 420 lbs.
+  2      "          "     400 "  410  "
+  5      "          "     390 "  400  "
+  3      "          "     380 "  390  "
+  6      "          "     360 "  380  "
+  5      "          "     340 "  360  "
+  2      "          "            336  "
+  2      "          "     250 "  266  "
+
+The average of the foregoing gives 367 lbs., the highest being 420 lbs.,
+the lowest 250 lbs. A similar experiment made with 31 soldiers of the 58th
+regiment (averaging in weight 144 lbs.) gave the following figures:--
+
+   2 soldiers lifted 504 lbs.
+   6   "        "    460  " to 480 lbs.
+  14   "        "    400  " "  460  "
+   9   "        "    350  " "  400  "
+
+Thus the average weight which the British soldiers could lift from the
+ground was 422 lbs., or 55 lbs. more than the Maori.
+
+Perron in his "Voyage des Decouvertes aux Terres Australes," observed as
+the result of numerous experiments, that the weakest Frenchman had more
+muscular strength than the most powerful native of Van Diemen's Land, and
+that the weakest Englishman was stronger than the strongest native of New
+Holland. Judging by that standard, the Maories are of a far more powerful
+build than the Australian aborigines.
+
+What appears to us most interesting in the results of Dr. Thomson's
+observations, is the immense disparity of the muscular strength of the
+Maori as compared with that of the Anglo-Saxon race, although in height,
+weight, and girth they so closely resemble them. The main reason of this
+astonishing dissimilarity is undoubtedly due in the main to the
+exclusively vegetable diet of the New Zealanders, which it is well known
+promotes the deposition of fat in the system, without proportionately
+increasing the amount of muscular tissue. Moreover the uniform,
+uneventful life of the Maories by no means tends to the development of
+muscular strength.
+
+Dr. Thomson justly remarks that the foregoing facts completely demolish
+the arguments of those who find a pleasure in representing the world as
+degenerating, and mankind as much less powerful and free from blemish than
+in former ages, ere trade and civilization had exercised their
+unpropitious influence upon the habits and manners of mankind. For here we
+have the New Zealanders, living up to the present century a life of the
+most primitive simplicity, yet evidently in respect of mere corporeal
+strength lagging far behind the denizens of a country, where culture and
+machinery have brought about social changes of such magnitude, as no other
+civilized people on the globe can show.
+
+Of few races inhabiting the southern hemisphere, have the proverbs,
+poetry, songs, and traditions been the subject of such zealous study as
+those of the Maori, and no one has made more careful investigation into
+this interesting feature than the present Governor, Sir George Grey, who
+set on foot most minute inquiries into the older history of the Maori,
+which he published in a variety of valuable works,[33] although several of
+the missionaries, as also educated settlers of many years' standing in the
+colony, have extended our acquaintance with the Maori race, by the
+publication of a grammar and dictionary of the Maori language, as also
+many valuable works upon the natural history of the New Zealand
+Islands.[34]
+
+To this most honourable and widely-diffused activity, science is indebted
+for a specimen of literature which furnishes an excellent sample of the
+high cultivation of the native race, and makes us acquainted with moral
+axioms and pieces of poetry which would do honour even to a poet of
+Caucasian descent.
+
+We subjoin a few adages and short poems of Sir George Grey's valuable
+collections, which more especially indicate the dignified character and
+originality of thought of this singular people, and are taken from a
+larger number embraced in Sir George Grey's collection of "Proverbial and
+Popular Sayings" already mentioned.
+
+    Canst thou still the surf that breaks on the Shoal of
+    Rongo-mai-ta-kupe? (Alluding to the difficulty of allaying a
+    revolt.)
+       *       *       *       *       *
+    The little child grows, but the little axe remains for ever
+    little (i. e. manhood is more valuable than any other
+    possession).
+
+    Capricious as a salmon in the stream or a girl on shore.
+
+    The flounder flies back to hide itself in the water it has
+    mudded.
+
+    You can search the dark corner of a house, but not the heart of
+    a man.
+
+    Bad food will not make a man mean, but a noble man makes mean
+    food respectable.
+
+    Kokowai or red ochre sucks up oil when you mix them. (If a chief
+    visits you, he and his followers soon absorb all your property!)
+
+    A smooth tree you may climb, however tall it is; but how can you
+    pass over the sea, glassy as it looks?
+
+    Perhaps, although I am little, you will find me troublesome as a
+    sandfly.
+
+    Although hidden from us, we know there are plenty of roots of
+    the wild convolvulus running under the ground there; so with the
+    evil thoughts of our hearts.
+
+    You won't care to look long at the good food you have before
+    you, but a face you love you can often look at (a pretty wife is
+    better worth getting than a rich one).
+
+    A girl's beauty is like a fine day, a storm soon follows it; so
+    old age and ugliness follow close upon loveliness.
+
+    There are a multitude of stars in the heavens, but a very little
+    cloud covers many of them (meaning that a small band of resolute
+    men may defeat a large number).
+
+    If he had taken refuge on a mountain-top we could have climbed
+    it; if he had taken refuge amidst ocean's surge our canoes could
+    have contended with it; but having taken shelter under the
+    protection of a _mighty chief_, who can reach him there?
+
+    If you have a sperm whale's tooth, you must also have a sperm
+    whale's jaw to carry it!
+
+    Quick in speech, slow to act; promises are quickly made, the
+    body is slow to move.
+
+    A fathomless throat, but no industry; a monster's appetite, but
+    no perseverance in labour.
+
+    He is ascending the snow-capped mountains of Ruahmi (i. e. he is
+    growing old).
+
+    Rangipo and Raeroa started together on a journey. Rangipo
+    carried his god _alone_ with him; Raeroa carried his god on his
+    back, and _food_ in his hand; Rangipo died,--Raeroa lived.
+
+    The block of wood has no business to dictate to the artist who
+    carves it.
+
+    I can scarcely look out eagerly from the hill-top!
+
+    A mouth, ready as a salmon, to spring at its prey.
+
+    He is a descendant of Ki-ki, who was so skilled in magic that
+    his shadow withered trees and plants if it fell on them.
+
+    The grasp of a chief's red hand cannot be loosened, but the
+    grasp of a slave, what strength has it?
+
+    Few are the friends that aid at planting, but when the crops are
+    gathered they come in shoals.
+
+    An old broken canoe may be mended, but youth and beauty cannot
+    be restored:--
+
+    A fat man has been fattened by food, not by active thought; you
+    will find him full, but not wise.
+
+    Women and war are the two dangers of men.
+
+    A woman probably hears the foe sing as they sacrifice to their
+    gods the bodies of her slaughtered relatives (i. e. it is of
+    little use to have a daughter, she will perhaps raise up heirs
+    for your foes).
+
+    Women and land are the causes which destroy men.
+
+    The Moa-bird (_Dinornis gigantea_) trampled down the Rata tree
+    (_Metrosidero Robusta_) when it was young; how then can you
+    expect it to grow straight now? (i. e. it is difficult to
+    overcome early influences.)
+
+    It is from food that a man's blood is made, and it is land which
+    grows his food and sustains him. (Never part with your own land,
+    and do not yield a fertile district.)
+
+    Persist in all as resolutely as you persist in eating.
+
+    Be firm as the surf-beaten rock in the ocean!
+
+    Another man's food you must eat little bits of; food won by your
+    own labour you may eat plenty of, and satisfy your hunger well.
+
+    An axe, though very little, can do as much as a man in clearing
+    away a forest.
+
+    A fish begins nibbling gently upwards before he bites, and you
+    begin a steep ascent from the bottom (from trifling disputes
+    fierce wars arise).
+
+Not less conspicuous is the vigour displayed in the poetical conceptions
+of the Maori. There is in them a depth of sentiment, a vividness of
+imagery, which would almost make us doubtful of their true origin, if the
+original were not at hand to compare with.
+
+Thus, for example, how beautifully do the following lines, borrowed from a
+dirge for the chief Te-Huhu, describe the wild anguish of a warlike
+people, mourning the loss of a beloved leader:--
+
+                            DIRGE OF TE-HUHU.
+
+    Behold the glare of the lightning!
+    It seems as though it had cleft in twain the steep hills of Tuwhare.
+    Dropped from thy hand thy weapon,
+    And thy spirit, it vanished
+    Behind the lofty ridges of Raukawa!
+    The sun hid his face, and hasted away,
+    As a woman hurries from the strife of battle!
+    The waves of ocean mourn as they rise and fall,
+    And the hills of the south melt away!
+    For the spirit of the chieftain
+    Was winging its way to the dwellings of Rona;[35]
+    Open, ye gates of heaven!
+    Tread thou the first heaven! tread thou the second heaven!
+    And when thou dost traverse the spirit land,
+    And its dwellers shall ask thee, "What meaneth this?"
+    Tell that her wings were torn from this our world,
+    When _he_ died, the strong one,
+    Our leader in the roar of battle!
+    Atutahi and the stars of the morning
+    Look pitifully down from their fastnesses,
+    The earth reels to and fro,
+    For the mightiest support of her children lies low!
+    O my friend! the dew of Hokianga
+    Shall penetrate thy body;
+    The waters of the brooks shall dry up,
+    And the land become desolate:
+    I see a cloud rising afar
+    Above the head of Heke the renowned!
+    May he be annihilated, for ever
+    Brought low to nothingness! so may the heart,
+    Now mourning in its depths, ne'er think of evil more!
+
+As deeply imbued with the spirit of true poetry is the following dirge of
+a mother, a heartfelt effusion of maternal affliction for the loss of an
+only daughter:--
+
+                          A LAMENT FOR NGARO.
+
+    Slow wanes the evening star.[36] It disappears
+    To rise again in more glorious skies,
+    Where thousands hasten forward to welcome it.
+    All that is grand and beautiful has no more value to me,
+    For thou wast my sole treasure! O my daughter!
+    When the sunbeams played above the waves,
+    Or glinted through the waving palms,
+    Secretly, but with joy, we marked thy sportive gambols
+    By the sandy shores of Awapoka.
+    Oft in the dawning twilight
+    I beheld thee, girt in thy simple robes,
+    And accompanied by the daughters of thy people,
+    Speed forth, to see gathered the fruit of the Main,[37]
+    While the maidens from Tikoro[38]
+    Sought for thee the mussels hid among the rocks,
+    Braving the blinding surf, and caught for thee
+    The callow brood of the screaming sea-fowl.
+    And when at even the tribes
+    Assembled for the repast,
+    Beloved companions sought to have thee by their side,
+    Eagerly contending who should bestow on thee dainties,
+    That they might win a smile from thy lips;--
+    But where art thou now? Where now?
+    Thou stream which still dost ebb and flow,
+    Flow and ebb no more,
+    For she that did love thee is gone!
+      Well is it for the people, as of old,
+    To assemble at the feast of pleasure!
+    The canoe still cleaves the air,
+    And dashes aside the foam of the heaving sea.
+    As of yore, hovering above the rocky cliffs,
+    The sea-fowl in clouds obscure the sky!
+    But the beloved one comes not!
+    Not even a lock of thy waving tresses
+    Is left us to mourn over!
+
+The truly paternal interest and attention bestowed by the Government on
+the destinies of the New Zealanders, and on the means being adopted to
+raise them morally and materially, as also the repeated asseverations of
+loyalty, fidelity, and gratitude towards the British nation, which were
+constantly in the mouth of the New Zealanders (the Gascons of the South,
+as an English author nicknames them), gave no reason to anticipate that
+the colony was about to become the scene of a war, which can hardly have
+any other result than the total extinction of the small remnant of the
+Maori; for although the English troops have hitherto encountered a severe
+and protracted resistance, and the Maori, intrenched in their _Pahs_,
+required Armstrong guns, bombs, and heavy artillery to be brought against
+them ere they yielded, yet to the impartial observer the issue of the
+contest cannot be for a moment doubtful. This unhappy contest originated
+in the sale of some land in the province of Taranaki, or New Plymouth, on
+the S.W. shores of the Northern Island. A native, named Te Teira (John
+Taylor), had sold to Government, under the provisions of the treaty of
+Waitangi, a small piece of land adjoining New Plymouth. Rangitaki, or as
+he is better known by his Christian name, Wiremu Kingi (William King), a
+resolute and powerful chief of the Ngatiawa tribe, opposed the sale, on
+the ground that Te Teira had in fact no right to dispose of this land
+without his consent, and obstructed the surveyors sent by Government to
+measure the piece of ground. On their being reinforced somewhat later,
+Kingi took up arms to resist them, and intrenched himself on the property
+in dispute. How little the Colonial Government intended to encroach upon
+the Maori privileges, is best shown by the circumstance that the Ngatiawa
+tribe, and their allies of the Taranaki, are but 3000 in number, men,
+women, and children all told, who claim as their property districts
+covering an area of 2,000,000 acres, and during the last twenty years have
+only cultivated some small patches along the coast. The white settlers
+also number about 3000, and with the consent of Government have, during
+that period, purchased 40,000 acres, of which hardly one-fourth part is
+devoted to agricultural purposes. On 17th March, 1860, Kingi was at last
+attacked by the English troops under Colonel Gold. This was the
+commencement of a series of sanguinary combats, carried on with the most
+desperate obstinacy,[39] and the more serious, as it stands out in
+singularly bold relief, that the majority of the missionaries, Bishop
+Selwyn and Archdeacon Hadfield at their head, take part with the Maories,
+and that the learned justice, Dr. Martin, endeavours to prove that the war
+has broken out entirely in consequence of a breach of the rights of
+property by the Colonial Government, and therefore that the conduct of
+the recusant chief, so far from being a rebellion, was a bare vindication
+of right! Nay, it has even been openly stated (and it throws an
+interesting light upon certain political complications in Europe) that the
+Protestant missionaries and certain former _proteges_ of the Government
+are chiefly to blame for the difficulties now existing between the English
+and the natives. Amongst these adversaries a certain Mr. Davis, formerly
+official translator and interpreter, a highly-educated but calculating
+man, who once sung the praises of Sir George Grey, and among other works
+has published the Maori Mementos,[40] so interesting in a historical point
+of view, hit upon the clever notion, in company with a Maori named William
+Thompson, or "The King-maker," of instigating the natives to rebellion.
+With this object in view, they organized far in the interior, among the
+tribes hitherto but little civilized, immense popular gatherings, at which
+in long speeches they always contrived to come back to the assertion that
+the Maories and not the English were the real lords of the soil, and that
+they therefore were entitled to be governed by a king selected from among
+themselves. Thompson, thoroughly versant in the foibles and vanities of
+his countrymen, and supported by ambitious, crafty, intriguing
+foreigners, was speedily master of the situation, and it is much less
+matter of surprise that in 1858 a king was chosen in the person of
+Potatau[41]-te-Whero-Whero, one of the most renowned of the Waikato tribe,
+than that the Government, from the year 1854, suffered this conduct to go
+unpunished, and with cool indifference beheld the movement grow in
+proportion without taking the slightest precautionary measures!
+
+Only by such indulgence, not to say negligence, did it become possible for
+the native league against the sale of land, and the accompanying King
+movement, to have attained their present importance, the number engaged in
+them having risen to a total of 15,000 able-bodied warriors. Since the
+restrictions recently placed on the importation of weapons and ammunition,
+there have been imported during the last three years fire-arms, powder,
+lead, and caps to the value of L50,000, so that we may estimate their
+present supply of gunpowder at 100,000 lbs. at the least, and the
+fire-arms, exclusive of those imported at the time of Hongi, at about
+20,000 stand.
+
+Already, at Christmas, 1858, when the staff of our Expedition were passing
+a week or two in Auckland, there was a noticeable amount of political
+agitation in various parts of the interior, and we ourselves witnessed
+some chiefs, friendly to the Government, who before starting for a great
+Maori meeting near Drury offered to the Governor their good services, and
+asked his orders. The Maori chiefs, whom Colonel Browne received in his
+study, could only be distinguished from white men by the wonderfully
+copious tattooing on their faces, and were in all other respects attired
+exactly like Europeans. Some wore black round hats and blouses, others
+wore caps. Only in the flaps of their ears they carried small pieces of
+green nephrite, while suspended round the neck by a thick chord was the
+inevitable club-shaped _meri-meri_, that renowned stone weapon which
+descends as an heir-loom in families, and is so highly prized that a New
+Zealander will pay as high as L100 for one. The chiefs candidly remarked
+that at this gathering the selection of a Maori king would come up for
+decision, and they therefore wished, as loyal and true subjects of the
+Queen of England, which they said they always had been and wished to
+continue, to know from the lips of her representative how they ought to
+act in such a case. Colonel Browne, who like most of the British settlers
+in New Zealand seemed to attach but little importance to the whole Maori
+movement, or, if so, did not like to make it known, simply thanked the
+chiefs for this renewed expression of their loyal sentiments, adding in
+the spirit of Maori oratory that "he had already considered them as good
+friends both to himself and the Government, and therefore left them to act
+as they saw best without further pledge, for he felt fully assured, if the
+chief (who had addressed him) should go to this gathering he might feel as
+if his own right hand were there, and everything therefore would result
+entirely as he could wish." Unhappily these anticipations were not
+realized, but on the contrary a war burst forth out of the long-despised
+movement, of such dimensions, and of such terrible cruelty, that the
+results of the civilization of the last twenty years have been seriously
+imperilled, and the original Maori, divesting himself of the whitewash of
+superficial Christianity, has become suddenly visible in all his savage
+thirst for blood. We do not indeed believe that the whole race have been
+seized with this much-to-be-lamented proclivity towards their old
+barbarism, nor that the application of the proverb (parodied from the
+celebrated _mot_ of Napoleon), "Scratch the Maori and you will find the
+savage beneath," receives its full illustration here; but neither, on the
+other hand, can we resist the conviction that a long continuance of
+hostilities will foster old customs, and that a war waged with
+ever-increasing animosity must ultimately result in the decay and
+extinction of the New Zealand aborigines.
+
+Independently of this, there was visible, even during the former days of
+peace and tranquillity, so marked a falling off of the Maori population,
+that the Colonial Government felt called upon to institute most minute
+inquiries as to the supposed causes of this lamentable feature. In a very
+exhaustive work upon this subject, by Mr. F. D. Fenton,[42] we find for
+example that the proportion of births and deaths among the entire
+population--the former of which in England is 1 : 59, and the latter 1 :
+34, and among the white settlers of New Zealand is 1 : 136 and 1 :
+25--gives among the aborigines the following startling results,--deaths 1
+: 33.04, births 1 : 67.13. The cause of this appalling decay of the Maori
+race, which has been steadily going on since 1830, is not alone due to the
+contact of the natives with civilization, but chiefly to the sanguinary
+wars between the various races, of which New Zealand was the theatre for a
+series of years, and the natural results of those wars. For it was not
+merely that in their constant battles the flower of their respective
+tribes lost their lives,[43] but the mothers, to facilitate their own
+escape, put to death most of the female infants at the breast. Upon this
+followed, apparently in consequence of the great privations of their
+wandering life, through hard work and want of nutritious food, a serious
+sterility among the female sex. Whereas, according to Muret, out of 487
+women only 20 (or 1 in 24) are barren on the average, the proportion among
+the Maori amounts to 155 in every 444, or 1 in 2.86.
+
+The want of nutritious and wholesome food, their diet consisting mainly of
+salt-fish, roots, and fruits, the absence of clothing, or any care for the
+body, their wretched abodes, and exposure to the weather, all these causes
+must greatly contribute to the diminution of the race, as affecting the
+conditions of sound health of the present generation, and tending to
+produce those forms of disease, such as scrofula, pulmonia, phthisis, &c.,
+by which the Maories and their offspring are at present decimated. Dr.
+Fenton also adduces the intermarriage of near relations among the New
+Zealanders as one prominent cause of their disease and physical
+degeneracy. These near alliances, however, at least among the lower
+classes, do not seem so frequent as Dr. Fenton imagined, as is apparent
+from the surprising diversity of physiognomy and colour of skin. The
+chiefs indeed of the tribes, who migrated from the north some four
+centuries since, may indeed have so frequently intermarried that they now
+constitute little other than a large family connection, but the populace
+have most undoubtedly made frequent alliances with the inhabitants of the
+adjoining island groups, as they are to this day accustomed to do with the
+whites, from which latter cross results the unhappy bastard race
+Paketa-Maori, which, like the quadroons of Louisiana and the mulattoes of
+Hayti, or the mestizoes of the Indian races of South America, despising
+the pure blacks and looked down upon by the whites, are the sworn foes of
+both.
+
+It seems to us too hazardous a speculation to go into minute
+investigations as to the decay of the Maori race, and the most suitable
+means of averting that disaster, at the very moment when their foreign
+conquerors, in order to strengthen their power, are actually engaged in a
+war of annihilation with the aborigines.[44] It is much more important,
+and will better repay our time, to enumerate the advantages which must
+accrue to European, especially German, immigrants into a country where the
+natives have played out their part.
+
+As already remarked, there are few countries beyond the limits of Europe
+which are so favoured as regards climate, fertility of soil, natural
+wealth, and geographical situation,[45] or hold out such excellent
+prospects of ultimate comfort and prosperity, as New Zealand. The mean
+temperature of the whole islands for the year is 56 deg. Fahr., and is 5 deg. less
+at the south, and in the north about 4 deg. higher, so that, for example,
+Auckland possesses the same temperature as Florence, Rome, Marseilles, or
+Toulon.[46] Gales are frequent along the coast, and the damp south winds
+known as "bursters" are exceedingly disagreeable and oppressive, but they
+do not on the whole affect the health of the inhabitants. According to Dr.
+Thomson's observations, it would seem that of every 1000 soldiers in the
+various British military stations 8.25 die in New Zealand, 14 in Great
+Britain, 18 in Malta, 20 in Canada.[47]
+
+Of the superficial area of New Zealand, which, if we include Stewart's and
+Chatham Islands, may be estimated at 75,000,000 acres, one-third consists
+of forest and bush capable of being reclaimed for agricultural purposes,
+one-third of meadow, grass-pasture, and valley, well adapted for
+cultivation, and the remaining one-third of barren rock, or sandy desert,
+besides lakes and rivers.
+
+The amount of land, in various holdings, reclaimed and made fruitful
+throughout New Zealand for the year 1857 was 190,000 acres, of which
+121,648 were arable land, sown with esculents (chiefly wheat, oats,
+potatoes, and grass for fodder) and fruit. Of late years the annual
+increase of land reclaimed has been 40 per cent. It is calculated that
+each new arrival from Europe is equivalent to the cultivation of four
+acres of land, and the breeding of 30 cattle. The cost of clearing amounts
+in New Zealand to from L2 to L5 per acre.
+
+Hence it is that the Colonial Government are straining every nerve, by
+holding out certain material advantages and inducements, to attract
+land-purchasers and handicraftsmen to a country, which, inhabited at
+present by not more than 130,000 human beings, is quite capable of
+supporting 30,000,000. The "Auckland Waste Land Act," besides giving every
+necessary information as to the unreclaimed districts (where land is sold
+at ten shillings per acre), also contains certain arrangements, by virtue
+of which intending emigrants of the labouring classes, who shall come out
+at their own expense, receive some assistance to enable them to settle on
+certain proportions of the land which the Government presents to them by
+way of indemnification for the expenses of their voyage, in the proportion
+of 40 acres to each person above 40 years of age, and 20 acres to all
+between 5 and 17 years.[48] The sole condition attached by the Government
+to this land-indemnity is that the emigrant bind himself to remain five
+years in the province; which period once elapsed, he may dispose of the
+land at his pleasure. In order to encourage persons accustomed to tuition
+to settle in Auckland, all persons who are fitted to instruct children in
+elementary knowledge and English grammar, on their having discharged such
+duties for five years to the satisfaction of Government, are entitled to a
+grant of 80 acres of land.
+
+The most important products and articles grown for export are, all sorts
+of cereals, wool, and ship-timber. A marked increase has taken place in
+potato cultivation, of which in 1857 there were exported 4430 tons, value
+L23,328, and in 1858, 6116 tons, value L33,056. Of building timber of all
+sorts there were exported in 1857 L12,205, and in 1859 L34,376 in value.
+
+One of the most valuable trees of the New Zealand forests is the Kauri
+pine (_Dammara Australis_). This elegant tree, 80 to 120 feet in height,
+furnishes the English ship-building yards with a large number annually of
+rounded logs, 74 to 84 feet in length, of better quality as well as more
+lasting than those of the Norwegian or American pines.[49] The Kauri or
+yellow pine also produces the kind of rosin so well known as Dammara
+rosin, of which this valuable tree produces such quantities, that in those
+districts where the Kauri tree has long since yielded to the axe of
+civilization, it has been found in immense masses on the soil, in a
+high-dried state. The Kauri rosin of commerce is not therefore procured,
+as with us, by making an incision in the tree, but is actually dug out of
+the earth, into which to the despair of the farmer it has often percolated
+for several feet, rendering the soil barren. During our excursions we came
+repeatedly upon whole tracts of rosin-fields, which were covered several
+feet thick with this substance. The Dammara pine only grows on the
+northernmost island, and chiefly in the northern parts.
+
+In Auckland we saw several pieces of Kauri rosin weighing 100 lbs. In
+1857, 2521 tons, worth L35,250, of this substance were exported, chiefly
+for its valuable properties as a varnish, and for "fixing" certain colours
+used in the calico manufacture. It has also of late been extensively used
+in the manufacture of candles.
+
+The cultivation of the Harakeke, or indigenous flax (_Phormium tenax_),
+might be made to conduce greatly to the wealth of the country, if some
+mechanical process could be invented which should without too much expense
+liberate the fibres from their hard envelope, which is the only obstacle
+in the way of its competing successfully with Russian flax. Impressed with
+the importance of developing the cultivation of _Phormium tenax_, the
+Colonial Government has offered a reward of L1500 for the invention of
+such a machine as shall bark the native flax, and prepare it for and make
+it saleable in the European market. At present no more than 50 or 60 cwt.
+of the flax, worth about L800, is exported from Auckland. The New Zealand
+flax surpasses almost every known plant in the strength and toughness of
+its fibres, its ratio as compared with the fibres of European plants of
+the same species standing as high as 27:7. For Great Britain the
+cultivation of this flax is not alone of great interest in an economic
+point of view, but is even politically of importance, as the amount of
+flax annually imported from Russia for her industrial energies averages
+L3,000,000.
+
+Sheep-farming has of late years made an enormous advance in New Zealand,
+the export for 1857 being 2,648,716 lbs., value L176,581, that for 1859,
+5,096,751 lbs., value L339,779, averaging 1_s._ 4_d._ per lb. The list of
+articles suitable for export must continually increase with immigration,
+and the consequent spread of population through the interior.
+
+The entire commerce of New Zealand, both import and export, is at present
+about L2,000,000, the value of imports having risen from L597,827 in 1853
+to L1,551,030 in 1859, while the exports, which in the former year were
+only L331,282, had risen in 1859 to L551,484. The last-mentioned year
+employed 836 ships, of which 438, representing 136,580 tons and 7594 of
+crew, were engaged in the import, and 398 of 120,392 tons and 6483 of
+crew, were employed in the export trade. The net revenue of the Government
+for the same period was L459,648.
+
+The majority of the colonists are emigrants from Great Britain, only a
+small fraction coming from the continent.[50] A large Irish population
+lives in the neighbourhood of Auckland, while the Scotch cling together
+about Taranaki and the southern parts of the island. The European
+population was 52,155 in 1857, and 73,343 in 1859, the proportion of sexes
+in the latter year being 42,452 males, and 30,891 females.
+
+While most of the naturalists of the _Novara_ staff went on the invitation
+of Government to examine the coal-beds lately discovered in Drury
+district, others made frequent excursions in the environs of Auckland,
+three of which deserve special mention.
+
+The first was to the picturesque Judges and Oraki Bays, the latter formed
+by the ruins of a crater. Here for the first time we beheld what is called
+the New Zealand Christmas tree, _Metrosideros Tormentosa_, which at the
+festive season comes forth pranked in all its gay blossoms, and is
+extensively used in decorating churches and dwelling-houses. Its large
+deep-red, umbellate blossoms are visible from afar gleaming among the
+green vegetation along the coast. The natives call this tree the
+Pohutu-Kawua; it is most extensively found on the slopes along the coast.
+The wild pepper, Kawa-kawa (_Piper excelsum_), is very common in the
+country round Auckland, but is not brewed into an intoxicating drink like
+the _Piper methysticum_ of the Southern Ocean. The natives indeed are
+exceedingly temperate, and, unlike other half-civilized races, are very
+little addicted to drink; this however may be partly due to the wise
+precautions of the Government, which under a heavy pecuniary penalty
+forbids all tavern-keepers throughout the province from selling the Maori
+any drink except beer. Two species of grass eminently characteristic of
+the country, which often overrun vast tracts of land, and are used by the
+natives for thatching their huts, are the Toi-toi (_Lepidosperma elatior_)
+and the Kekaho (_Arundo Australis_). There are also the Puka-puka, or
+paper-seed (_Brachyglottis repanda_), an object which, where it is found,
+imparts a peculiar aspect to the landscape, like the silver poplars on the
+flanks of Table Mountain at the Cape. The name of the plant is derived
+from the under side of the leaves being as white as paper.
+
+We also during this excursion saw great quantities of Raorao or Aruhe
+(_Pteris esculenta_), and were told that the roots (_roi_) of this fern,
+baked and ground, were highly prized by the Maories as a specific against
+sea-sickness. No native makes a sea-voyage, at least to any distance,
+without carrying with him a piece of this root, using it when baked as an
+antidote against that most depressing of maladies, from which even
+primitive races are not exempt. The efficacy of this remedy is however
+rather reputed than actual, the experience of Europeans, who have availed
+themselves of its supposed virtues, tending to show that it is absolutely
+worthless.
+
+While at Oraki Bay we also visited the Maori village of Oraki. Here we
+found some 80 natives, men, women, and children, who had encamped on a
+hill outside the village. They were clothed partly in European style,
+partly in clothes made of native flax. The diversity of feature was most
+remarkable, as was also the great difference in the hair of the head. Some
+had thin black, others crisp, hair; many had it of a dark brown colour,
+while yet others had regular fox-coloured locks. The elder men had their
+faces and hands beautifully tattooed; the women on the lip only, and the
+younger generation were not tattooed at all. After the customary
+salutation of "Tenakoe, Tenakoe" (which in fact means literally nothing
+more than "Here you are," or "I recognize you"), they were little
+communicative, and showed little disposition to enter into closer
+conversation with the foreigners, although some of our companions spoke
+their language fluently. As our instructions were to ship on board the
+_Novara_ any handsomely tattooed natives who should of their own free will
+wish to enter our marine, we let slip no opportunity, and accordingly
+endeavoured to induce some of the natives we now saw to ship with us.
+However, they could not be persuaded to make a cruise with us to see other
+lands and nations, as they could not comprehend what motive Austrian
+voyagers could have in inviting the natives of such a distant quarter of
+the globe to join them on such favourable terms. Their chief hesitation
+arose in the idea which they, the offspring of cannibals, firmly believed,
+that we wished to take some of their companions with us instead of fresh
+provisions, with the ultimate intent, so soon as we ran out of victuals,
+to put them to death, and banquet on Maori flesh! Thereupon we showed them
+some Caffres who had been 15 months on board, and were perfectly well
+treated. "Who knows," replied one of the most cautious of the Maori, "very
+possibly the Caffres have only been spared because the necessary moment
+has not yet come!" We returned to Oraki, our efforts vain to induce any
+Maori volunteer to make a cruise.
+
+A not less interesting excursion was made to the Kauri forest in
+Titarangi, among the Manukau hills, to which we were conveyed in a couple
+of dog-carts. It was an exquisitely beautiful sunny morning. The air was
+so invigorating yet so mild that we immediately felt how well Sir Humphrey
+Davy's celebrated remark about Nice, "mere existence here is luxury," may
+also be applied to Auckland. After a drive of three hours through charming
+fields and meadows, we entered upon the forest at a spot where an Irishman
+named Smith has erected a block-house and a saw-mill, which seemed to do
+an excellent business. The whole appearance of the farm and its residents
+made a most favourable impression. Old Smith accompanied us in person to
+the forest, which consisted principally of the lofty, slender,
+broad-leaved Kauri pine. These have much more the look of chestnut trees
+than fir. The whole forest displayed a luxuriance and beauty of vegetation
+such as we had not anticipated in these latitudes. Creepers, parasites,
+and tree-ferns, gave it quite a tropical character. There were a charm and
+a voluptuousness about this green garb of nature, as displayed in New
+Zealand, such as the virgin forests of even the Nicobars or Java could
+hardly surpass in grace and majesty.
+
+The slender trunks of the Kauri pine, the Rimu (_Dacrydium_
+_Cupressinum_), and the Kali Katea (_Podocarpus excelsa_), are here
+sliced into planks and boards, and so transported to the port. 100 cubic
+feet are worth about 15_s._, and 100 cubic feet of the beautiful Rimu
+wood, which is much used for furniture, fetches about 30_s._ A saw-mill
+labourer is paid from L7 to L8 per month, besides rations.
+
+On our return, thoroughly fagged out and overheated with three hours of
+climbing and rambling, to the hospitable residence of our worthy Irish
+friend, we found an elegant carpet spread on the floor of the room, and
+everything clean and neat, to welcome the unexpected guests. His entire
+family was waiting to receive us, and after a comfortable meal we took our
+leave, doubly impressed with the glories of New Zealand forest scenery,
+and agreeably surprised to find in such close proximity with
+half-reclaimed nature such a peaceful picture of contentment, and such
+sterling results of well-directed human industry.
+
+While our eyes were still dazzled with the beauties of the New Zealand
+forests of the Manukau range, a visit to St. John's College gave us an
+excellent and cheering glimpse of the admirable zeal displayed by various
+philanthropists to impart instruction in the great truths of Christianity
+to the coloured race of this and the adjacent groups of islands, and to
+educate missionaries. St. John's College has been set on foot with this
+praiseworthy object in view by the Church of England Missionary Society.
+Of the forty lads who attended it while we were there, the majority came
+from Loyalty Islands, the Solomon Group, and New Caledonia. Many only
+remained at the institute during the warm summer months, and for health's
+sake returned before winter set in to their own milder climate. Some had
+thus returned to school for the fourth time. The management of this humane
+undertaking is entrusted to Mr. Patterson, a gentleman of remarkable
+ability and perseverance, who speaks with fluency most of the Polynesian
+languages, and annually faces much privation and danger during his visit,
+in a schooner provided by the Missionary Society, to the various islands
+of the Southern Ocean, where he communicates with the natives, urging them
+to give their children the benefits of a certain amount of education. The
+course of instruction consists of reading, writing, arithmetic, and
+religion. It is unfortunate that no provision is made for their
+instruction in mechanical employments, as such knowledge would go far to
+make their heathen kindred appreciate the advantages of Christian
+civilization. The pupils seem to be warmly attached to Mr. Patterson, and
+regard him with the child-like reverence paid to a father. The results are
+surprising, and demonstrate what splendid germs of capacity for education
+lie slumbering in even the rudest primitive people, if only care be taken
+to awake them sufficiently early, and foster them judiciously.
+
+As in all English colonies, there is much intellectual activity in
+Auckland. Several English journals,[51] some really well written and
+digested,--such, for instance, as "_The Southern Cross_," "_The New
+Zealander_," &c.,--not only discuss the most important political events,
+but also endeavour to enlarge the views of their readers upon all
+questions of political economy and commercial and industrial progress.[52]
+
+A few months before our arrival a paragraph appeared in several English
+and German journals, one of which accidentally fell into our hands at
+Shanghai, to the effect that "in April, 1858, considerable excitement had
+been created in England by intelligence of a peculiar species of silk-worm
+having been discovered growing wild in New Zealand in immense quantities."
+The London correspondent added that the worm inhabits a cocoon which is of
+a dull brown externally, under which however is a particularly fine
+quality of silk, with which some Glasgow houses had made experiments that
+induced them to value it much more highly than the qualities hitherto
+procured in Europe. Owing to the great alteration in the prospects of the
+silk trade, generally held out by the march of events in China, we deemed
+it advisable to inquire minutely as to the existence of a worm, which, as
+reported, not merely enjoyed advantages of climate similar to those of
+several parts of the Austrian domains, but seemed to require but little
+attention, living, as was said, "wild" in the "bush." After protracted
+investigation, however, it turned out that the silk procured in New
+Zealand was furnished by the ordinary mulberry-fed silk-worm, and that the
+extraordinary delicacy attained in the fabrics made from it at Glasgow was
+only due to its very superior quality.
+
+The little expedition to the coal-beds of Drury already mentioned was
+accompanied by results so valuable, that considerable excitement arose
+among the settlers of the district, and a society was formed for the
+exploration of this mineral wealth. The excursion, however, was not
+confined to visiting the coal-fields, but was intended to give the
+naturalists of the _Novara_ an opportunity of seeing part of the interior
+of New Zealand, by traversing the forest, 9 to 15 miles wide, between
+Auckland and the river Waikato, and thus visit the lovely shores of that
+river and the native villages of the neighbourhood.
+
+The expedition was under the conduct of Capt. Drummond Hay, aide-de-camp
+to the Governor, and thoroughly acquainted with the country, and Mr.
+Heaphy, chief engineer of the province; Mr. Smallfield, editor-in-chief of
+the _New Zealander_, accompanied it as historiographer, while the
+Government invitation was extended to several of the scientific
+inhabitants of Auckland, among others the Rev. Mr. Purchas, and a
+recently-arrived German named Haast. The following is an extract from a
+journal, kept by one of the party from the _Novara_, of all the most
+interesting episodes of this excursion:--
+
+"On 28th December we set out in five waggons, and advanced among extinct
+craters and volcanic cones, on which in former times _Pahs_ or intrenched
+villages had been erected by the natives, as is plain from the succession
+of terraces of three or four feet high, rising in regular order, and cut
+into the side of the hill. The villas and farms on either side of the
+road, or at the foot of the hills, buried in their splendid
+flower-gardens, formed a charming contrast with the ancient lava currents,
+stretching in every direction and over-grown with tree-ferns and dense
+coppice. Now and then horses were rolling about upon the velvet-like
+meadows, or herds of cattle and flocks of sheep were passed feeding and
+ruminating, and bearing ample testimony to the advanced stage of material
+progress so quickly attained by one of the youngest of English colonies.
+
+"Already we had found banners waving from the houses of Otahuha, a little
+village closely adjoining a very interesting extinct volcanic peak with a
+crater, and during a brief halt we made here, crowds of well-dressed
+inhabitants came flocking in to welcome the German guests of the
+Government, who were to develope the natural wealth of the country. From
+Otahuha the road lay across the plains of Papa Kura (red levels) to
+Tamaki. It is a wide paved road well ballasted, the bridges solidly built,
+everything, in short, betokening the fostering care of an enlightened
+Government, making it a point of duty to open up as speedily as possible
+convenient means of communication between the capital and the interior.
+The farms and country-houses were not so numerous in this section, though
+the rolling country seemed of excellent quality.
+
+"At last, about 1 P.M., we reached Drury, a rather large settlement 29
+miles from Auckland, where we were most cordially welcomed. Young's Hotel,
+which had been engaged for the Expedition, was gaily decorated with
+flowers, rare forest plants, and ferns, while from the gable floated side
+by side the British and Austrian standards.
+
+"Drury is situate in a fertile rolling plain, the country is everywhere
+fenced in, corn-fields and meadows give variety to the landscape, and the
+well-to-do, fresh-looking countenances of the settlers, the groups of
+rosy-cheeked children, and the herds of splendid cattle, amply attest the
+salubrity as well as fertility of the neighbourhood. The party now split
+into two. Our geologist, with several companions, went forward about a
+mile and half from Drury into the forest, there to commence his
+investigations at a spot where a coal-bed 12 feet thick had been laid
+bare. The rest of the naturalists strolled about, engaged in botanical and
+zoological researches among the soft, beautiful woodland scenery of the
+almost _soul-enchaining_ primeval forest.
+
+"A couple of days were passed in such little excursions in the environs of
+Drury, in the course of which a trip was made in a Wakka or New Zealand
+canoe to the Tahike springs, near a Maori village of the same name. Our
+craft consisted of a single hollowed-out trunk of a kahika tree
+(_Podocarpus excelsa_), about 25 feet in length by 2-1/2 in breadth. For
+such a boat a native pays about L5, and it lasts from 20 to 30 years,
+whereas a canoe of red Totara (_Podocarpus Totara_) costs when complete
+about L30, but lasts much longer. Canoes are frequently pointed out
+prepared from these giants of the forest, 70 feet in length and from five
+to six in breadth, which were used in old times as war-canoes
+(Wakka-wakka), and could accommodate 100 warriors. Ours was covered at
+either end with fresh-gathered ferns, and was provided with four paddles
+tapering to a point, one of which was used by one of the Maories who
+accompanied us, while we applied ourselves to learning the management of
+this novel mode of propulsion by seizing on the rest, and by imitating his
+motions speedily mastered its difficulties. Unfortunately, owing to the
+distance, we could not reach the village itself, and, after a variety of
+curious adventures with the natives, found ourselves compelled to return
+when about half-way, in order to husband our strength for the exertions of
+the ensuing day.
+
+"By dawn the noise in the hotel drove away all further thought of sleep,
+and presently came flocking in from every quarter the horses, both saddle
+and pack, which had been engaged for the expedition. The morning broke in
+uncommon splendour, and the whole landscape lay bathed in a rose-coloured
+flush, whose exquisite tints recalled the immortal beauties of Claude
+Lorraine. The winding road that leads over the intervening hills begins at
+this point to be impracticable for wheeled vehicles, although it is
+possible to advance a few miles farther in country cars. For upwards of an
+hour we rode along through beautiful rolling pasture land, for the most
+part neatly fenced, and covered with herds of noble cattle. Now and then
+we came upon a stately mansion, buried in flowers and foliage, whose
+appearance sufficiently attested that the proprietor had long since left
+behind the struggles of the early days, when the hardy settler inhabited a
+wretched log-hut (whari), a "clearing" cut with incredible labour amid an
+almost impenetrable forest, the soil of which he had to prepare for the
+reception of corn-seed.
+
+"At last we reached the forest, which extended from where we were to the
+banks of the Waikato. The deeper we penetrated into it, the closer and
+more majestic grew the trees, and the denser and more impervious was the
+underwood. Gigantic trees, 150 feet in length of stem, were entwined,
+trunk, limbs, and summits, with flexible lianae and other parasitical
+creepers, while birds of the strangest descriptions were flitting hither
+and thither among the trees, alarmed by the tramp of our horses, which
+echoed strangely loud through the silent depths of the forest. The most
+frequently visible of these feathered denizens of the forest is the Tui
+(_Prostemadera novae Zelandiae_), called 'the parson' by Captain Cook, in
+consequence of its having two white feathers in the lower part of its neck
+resembling bands. In colour and shape it is very like the kingfisher, and
+its melodious notes present great variety. In addition to the Tui, the
+forest is frequented by the Kakariki (_Platycercus N. Z._), a small green
+parrot, which, stealing softly through the mysterious greenwood shade,
+emits its singular shrill shriek. We also fell in with a solitary specimen
+of the New Zealand cuckoo (_Endynamys Taitensis_), called by the natives
+Koekoea, which was eagerly bagged by the zoologists.
+
+"After riding half an hour into the forest we came to Rama-Rama, a
+settlement founded about three months previously by a rich English
+colonist. About 70 acres English were already reclaimed, and in some parts
+of this patch of land, so lately arrested from the wilderness, peas,
+turnips, beans, potatoes, and other kitchen vegetables were already
+peering above the surface. Two small huts, constructed of the stem of the
+tree-fern, and thatched with reeds, had been extemporized as kitchen and
+sleeping apartment for the occupier of the soil, a highly-educated,
+well-informed, gentlemanly man, named Martin, and his labourers, while on
+an eminence at a little distance preparations were being made to erect a
+handsome dwelling-house of wood, whence this skilful shepherd-prince will
+be able to overlook his flocks and herds, and delight his eyes with the
+prospect of his rapidly multiplying horned stock.
+
+"The road now became narrower and more difficult, the horses too began to
+find their footing less secure, and it was only by great vigilance that we
+contrived to ride over the marshy soil, thickly covered with massive roots
+of forest giants. Enormous trunks of trees that had fallen across the path
+had to be scrambled over, and the baggage removed from the pack-horses and
+carried forward on men's shoulders. Some of the horses, inured to similar
+expeditions, clambered nimbly over these obstacles, while for others, more
+restive or less practised, bridges had to be constructed, which are formed
+by laying two trunks of trees parallel with each other across the chasm or
+brook, upon which fern or reeds are placed transversely, and the whole
+tied together with twigs of liana, so as to afford the animals a firm
+footing. Occasionally this frail apparatus would break through, when the
+poor horses would disappear below, whence they were only extricated with
+considerable trouble.
+
+"Towards evening the forest began to get less dense, and we entered upon
+an undulating table-land, covered with ferns. Some columns of smoke,
+curling upwards at the foot of a hill on the further side, indicated that
+we were approaching a Maori village. In front of us lay the valley
+through which flows the Mangatawhiri, which falls into the Waikato a
+little lower down. The course of the latter was traceable by a range of
+hills whose elegant outlines bounded the horizon. We experienced a most
+friendly reception from the natives of this village, and were lodged in
+the newest _whari_ or New Zealand hut. This is constructed in the shape of
+a quadrangle with elliptic sides, about 20 feet in length by 14 feet in
+breadth, and consists of stakes of palm driven in close to each other, and
+tied together. The roof, which is 15 feet high in the centre, gradually
+sloping to about 8 feet at the side walls, is of thin slips of wood, and
+is covered over by a dense layer of native flax, so ingeniously woven that
+it is impervious to water, which accordingly runs off. The roof is for the
+most part supported simply by an upright pole in the midst, but
+occasionally several of these are used, so as to impart greater strength
+to the roof. The side walls are usually covered with large mats made of
+woven rushes. In the middle of the two longer side walls are two doors
+placed exactly opposite each other, between which a species of corridor is
+made, which divides the hut into two apartments as it were. In the event
+of bad weather, a small whari close at hand serves as a kitchen, the Maori
+usually following all culinary avocations in the open air in front of his
+hut.
+
+"The village consists of some 15 huts scattered at random, among which
+some of the inhabitants of both sexes, clothed in European attire, were
+sitting or lounging upon the ground, or crouching upon their hams.
+Around, in sympathetic glee and full security, sprawled a squad of pigs
+and children, some naked, others half-clothed. Most of the adults
+stretched out their hands in the most friendly manner. Here we had again
+occasion to remark the extraordinary diversity of physical appearance in
+various individuals, no two of these Maories being like each other in
+complexion, hair, or figure. In front of one of the huts a native oven was
+standing uncovered, the mid-day meal being just over; after the earth and
+other matters had been removed there appeared, each lying on a
+cool-looking cabbage leaf, some splendid potatoes and eels from the river.
+The Hangi-Maori, or Maori oven, is nothing but a hole some three feet long
+by one and a half deep excavated in the earth. In this a strong fire is
+made of dried timber, and when fully alight stones are placed over the
+flames, and kept there till they are in a state of incandescence. As soon
+as the wood has been consumed the ashes are carefully removed, and a
+little wet flax thrown upon the hot stones, above which again is placed a
+layer of fresh cabbage leaves. These form as it were a bed for the food to
+be cooked, be it meat, vegetables, fish, or fruit. The viands are then
+covered with another course of leaves, two mats of rushes being placed on
+the top, after which the earth excavated is heaped over the pile and
+pressed firmly down, so as to prevent the escape of the steam thus
+generated. If there are no cabbage leaves handy, a substitute is made of
+the leaves of the Tuakura (_Dicksonia Squamosa_), a species of fern which
+grows in great luxuriance among the moist spots. These leaves impart to
+the meat a peculiar and agreeable flavour, whereas other plants are apt to
+alter the ordinary taste of the food.
+
+"The women and girls were busily engaged during a few minutes in weaving
+little baskets of rushes, in which the potatoes were served up garnished
+with eel. A plateful was handed to each of our party, which we were
+courteously pressed to eat. In every Maori household there is always a
+sufficient quantity cooked to admit of any casual traveller or a neighbour
+partaking with the family; for the Maori possesses in perfection the
+savage virtue of hospitality, as we frequently experienced.
+
+"The master of the hut in which we passed the night had suddenly
+disappeared, and was busily engaged, as we witnessed through the open
+door, in arranging his hair, which he combed carefully, after which he
+anointed it with eel-fat, which he also plentifully smeared over his face,
+neck, and arms. This curious toilette completed, he wrapped a clean mat
+round him, and presented himself in full fig, to bid us all due welcome.
+The mode of salutation among the New Zealanders is unique. The party
+saluting draws his head rapidly backwards, and winks a couple of times
+with half-closed eye and laughing face!
+
+"Our bivouac suddenly received an unexpected accession of new arrivals.
+From the mountain ridge which we had just passed six horsemen were seen
+descending at full gallop and making for the village; they proved to be
+young Maories, mounted on handsome horses, who, having been apprized by a
+relative, whom we had met in the forest, of the arrival of _Pakehas_
+(white men), had come hither partly out of curiosity, partly to do us
+honour and show us hospitality. They all wore European clothes, rode in
+good English saddles, and bestrode powerful horses, which they seemed to
+manage with much grace. There are numerous Maories who have from 50 to 60
+head of horses, and whole herds of cattle, besides several thousands of
+pounds lying in bank.
+
+"In the course of a stroll through the village we not only observed fields
+planted with the customary rotations of wheat, oats, maize, potatoes,
+cabbage, and so forth, but on the banks of the river came upon a new mill,
+constructed on the English system, almost ready for work, which had been
+erected by an Englishman at a cost of L500, to be repaid by the tribe. The
+erection of this grinding machinery is the more indicative of the
+speculative turn of mind of the Maori of the present day, that they use
+none of the flour for their own primitive household, but manufacture it
+solely for the purpose of selling it advantageously at Auckland market.
+
+"Towards noon we again entered our canoes on our return, and descended the
+Mangatawhiri, the navigable channel of which is so narrow that even our
+narrow craft could with difficulty make its way. Gradually the hills began
+to slope backwards, and the river to grow wider, till it expanded on
+either side into a swampy morass covered with reeds and lofty elegant
+water-plants, while at a short distance away we could descry magnificent
+trees springing from the high-lying but fertile soil. It was a most
+delightful day. Throughout our entire excursion the thermometer ranged
+from 71 deg. 6 Fahr. to 77 deg. Fahr., so that, our strength not exhausted by
+oppressive heat, and our attention not distracted by the hum or the sting
+of insects, we were free to indulge those mingled feelings of which the
+variety and magnificence of the landscape were so well calculated to
+elicit the manifestation. Presently the river became once more very
+narrow, the hills again closed in, covered with a thick belt of forest,
+which extended down to the water's edge, occasionally forming a canopy of
+indescribable grace above our boat, as she glided noiselessly below. At
+last the Mangatawhiri, which hitherto had pursued a westerly direction,
+made a bend to the southward, and debouched into the Waikato. The
+impression made upon each of our party by the scenery at this point was so
+overpowering, that all, as though smitten by one common impulse, broke
+into expressions of delight. Its course lying between mountains of
+magnificent outline and thickly wooded, the majestic stream presented many
+points of resemblance to the Rhine and Danube, to which it was little if
+at all inferior in point of width. A holy calm brooded over its clear
+brown ripples, only broken by the flight of birds from time to time, which
+in those undisturbed solitudes, far from the murderous weapons of man,
+passed their existence in happy security. That we might enjoy in all their
+plenitude the exquisite charm of the forest and its luxuriant vegetation,
+we coasted along now on this side, now on that, as though we could never
+weary of the mingled grandeur and beauty of this magic scene. Still
+further to enhance the magnificence of nature in her present mood, a
+tremendous thunder-storm broke over us in the course of the afternoon,
+when the forked lightning played like arrows of fire above our heads, and
+the thunder rolled in deafening peals, which were taken up again and again
+by hundreds of mountain echoes.
+
+"In the evening the sky cleared, and we reached the Maori village of
+Tuakan, where we were made welcome, and the best hut in the place assigned
+us. The evening was one of peculiar interest, it being that of Sylvester's
+day, or the eve of the New Year of 1859, which will scarcely soon again be
+spent by Austrians at the antipodes. Our entire party camped upon the
+floor of the hut, two torches, stuck into the mouth of a couple of empty
+bottles, shed an uncertain light, while an iron kettle served as
+punch-bowl, in which a "brew," something resembling "Punch," was, by dint
+of the joint experience of the English and German members of the
+excursion, compounded out of the spirits we had brought with us. Ere long
+the chorus went round, and we had German songs, alternating with English,
+Irish, and Scotch melodies, and even melancholy New Zealand love-songs,
+sung by some of the Maories present.
+
+"As the evening, and with it the dying year, wore on, some little
+difficulty, natural enough under the circumstances, arose, how to
+ascertain the precise moment of its departure, as most of those present
+had left their watches behind, as a something more than superfluous
+article in the course of a forest excursion, and the few which had been
+brought differed so much, that it was impossible to depend upon them for
+the correct moment at which the old year sank to his rest, and the new
+began his course of alternate hopes and alarms, joys and griefs.
+
+"Suddenly Captain Drummond Hay rose, and opening the door, which, as in
+most Maori huts, faced the south, exclaimed: 'Well, we have neither church
+clock nor night watch to tell us the exact moment when the year changes,
+but a bountiful Providence has suspended for us in yonder firmament
+another and an unerring sentinel of night and time:--the constellation of
+the Southern Cross! During how many sleepless nights, among the forest or
+fern-covered plains of New Zealand, have I lain gazing at that
+never-failing time-piece of the Almighty's own handiwork! See, the Cross
+begins to bend to the west! It must now be midnight. A happy new year to
+one and all!' Once more the glasses clinked against each other, and hand
+locked in hand, after which the shades of night were left to gather round
+our wearied party, who sunk into sound repose, relieved probably by many a
+cheering vision of distant friends.
+
+"The following morning, 1st January, 1859, we all rose early, refreshed
+for the day's work, and found the entire population of the village
+collected around us. There were also a couple of English carpenters who
+joined the crowd, and welcomed us to the interior. They were employed in
+constructing for the natives, at an expense of L400, a wooden chapel, as
+the Maories attach great importance to having a place of worship, where
+those resident on the spot, or any occasional European stranger, may unite
+with them in spending the sabbath in a becoming manner. The majority of
+the New Zealanders are Christians, and belong almost exclusively to the
+High Church of England. Service is performed partly by missionaries, who
+traverse the country up and down, partly by itinerant spiritual teachers,
+regularly engaged for the purpose, the latter of whom have occasionally to
+struggle against severe privations and obstacles of various kinds. Many
+natives educated by the missionaries travel through the country preaching
+and praying, and by their exemplary conduct must greatly influence their
+fellow-countrymen. In almost every hut in the village we found a Bible, or
+a hymn-book and prayer-book, in the Maori tongue.
+
+"Notwithstanding their undoubted capacity, the natives will not apply
+themselves to any handicraft pursuits, which indeed they attach so little
+value to that they regard the shoemaker and the tailor, for example, as
+inferior to them. On the other hand, the merchant or the seaman stands in
+high esteem; and the warrior holds the chief place in their estimation,
+while they themselves consider them not inferior to the Europeans, with
+respect to courage, firmness, and love of war.
+
+"About noon we set out on our return. The route chalked out for us, by
+the only road which exists between Tuakan and Drury, was constructed
+partly by the land-holders along its course, partly by the surveyors, only
+intended for cattle, and to facilitate survey. We found it in such a rude
+state that it was only with much trouble we got our horses over the trees
+which lay felled across the road, or could induce them to put a foot on
+the bridges of loose planks by which the water-courses were crossed. In
+every direction the path was over-grown with roots, between deep pools,
+into which one stepped over the knees, while the boughs of the trees
+overhead rendered any attempt at progress a matter of considerable
+difficulty.
+
+"We could now form a pretty correct estimate of 'life in the interior of
+New Zealand,' and of the obstacles the settler has to encounter in a
+climate, the vegetation of which grows in rank luxuriance almost rivalling
+that of the tropics. As, however, the Colonial Government attaches the
+utmost importance to this matter, and expends large sums in laying out
+good roads throughout the interior, many of the impediments to traffic at
+present existing will be obviated in a few years. About 9 P.M. we were
+once more in Drury, and on the following morning, 2nd January, 1859, the
+little party returned to Auckland, when the geologist of the Expedition
+made a comprehensive report to Government on the coal-fields of the Drury
+district, which had first been noticed by the Rev. Mr. Purchas of
+Onehunga, who employed his leisure in geological studies."
+
+According to the geological researches of Dr. Hochstetter, it would appear
+that the province of Auckland abounds in good coal that would repay
+working, especially a brown coal occurring in the tertiary period, which
+greatly resembles that of Bohemia and Styria. The plains of Papakura and
+Drury on the eastern shore of Manukau Harbour are part of a rolling
+country, and are but little above the level of the sea. S.E. and S. they
+are bounded by a thickly-wooded range of hills from 1000 to 1500 feet in
+height, running in a direction from S.W. to N.E., or from the Waikato to
+the Wairoa; it is only in the vicinity of Drury that a portion of this
+chain trends nearly N.E., rising with a gentle slope from the level land
+below. At various points on these acclivities strata of coal have been
+discovered partly by the action of water, partly by human labour, the
+extent of which, owing to the impenetrable forest vegetation and the
+consequent lack of natural indications, can only be ascertained by boring.
+
+The coal is of the best quality of that kind of brown coal generally
+called cannel coal, and is occasionally met with in immense seams. The
+average thickness of the seam is about six feet. The Drury and Hunua
+coal-fields seem indeed to be but a part of a far more extensive tertiary
+formation, which occurs pretty universally throughout the province of
+Auckland. The obvious practical value and commercial importance of this
+New Zealand coal can only however be definitely proved, when the various
+manufacturing processes in which it is used have been fairly set a-going.
+It might at all events be worth the experiment to erect in the vicinity of
+the coal mines some manufactories of porcelain, as the utmost variety of
+clay has been met with in the course of the different borings, all
+admirably suitable for every branch of that manufacture.
+
+In like manner the brown coal might be made available for the supply of
+gas, besides being called into requisition for fuel for numerous
+industrial pursuits. On the other hand, it is not suitable for ocean steam
+navigation, as its volume would prevent its being shipped in sufficient
+quantities, so long as black coal could be procured, even at a somewhat
+higher price.
+
+The proposals of the geologist of our Expedition as to the best mode of
+exploring the wealth of the Drury coal district, were so well received by
+the Government, and so eagerly caught up by the proprietors of the various
+plots of land--the benefits likely to result to the colony from such an
+undertaking seemed so important, that there was not merely a rush to open
+up the coal district, but a formal request was made to the Commander of
+our Expedition that he would permit Dr. Hochstetter to remain behind to
+aid the work, and prosecute further researches in this little-explored
+island. This proposition, originated by a number of respectable and
+influential persons, at last found official expression in an official
+letter despatched by the Governor of the colony to our Commodore, in which
+the farther geological exploration of the island by Dr. Hochstetter was
+asked as a particular favour.[53] As the request was a high compliment,
+and it was impossible the scientific objects of the Expedition could be
+more obviously fulfilled than by the thorough geological examination of a
+country never hitherto subjected to a similar scrutiny, Commodore Von
+Wuellerstorf consented on condition that all the collections made, and the
+observations and literary matter published, by Dr. Hochstetter during his
+residence on the island, should without exception form part of the results
+of the _Novara_ Expedition, and that all expenses incurred during his stay
+on the island, or on his passage back to Europe, should be defrayed by the
+Government of New Zealand.[54]
+
+All these proposals were at once approved, and Dr. Hochstetter was
+moreover handsomely remunerated, and every facility given him to devote
+himself to the extension of science while contributing to the welfare of
+the country at large. On the 8th January, our estimable travelling
+companion disembarked from the _Novara_, intending to remain in Auckland
+provisionally, and to make preparations for his arduous task, which was to
+be inaugurated by a geological survey of Auckland Province, after which,
+in the course of some weeks, he hoped to proceed into the interior.
+Several officials, as also a photographer, a draughtsman, and 15 Maories,
+were selected to accompany Dr. Hochstetter into the interior, each of whom
+strove to contribute to the utmost of their power to the success of an
+undertaking fraught with such important results.
+
+During our stay in Auckland we had the misfortune to lose our boatswain,
+who died suddenly of serous apoplexy, and was interred in the Catholic
+burial-ground. The deceased was so universally beloved, that a collection
+was started on board, which resulted in a sufficient sum being raised to
+admit of a suitable tombstone being erected to the memory of this worthy
+man.
+
+In no part visited by the _Novara_ was she received by the Catholic clergy
+with such lively demonstrations of delight as at Auckland. On new year's
+day a special high mass was celebrated in the Catholic cathedral in
+presence of all the seamen of the vessel, followed by a sermon from Dr.
+Pompallier, the venerable R.C. bishop of the province. The gray-headed
+prince of the Church, accompanied by his Vicar-General, and several Maori
+chiefs, afterwards came off to the frigate, when he paid a visit to the
+Commodore. As the Catholic mission at Auckland is anything but well
+endowed, our chaplain, by orders of the Commodore and in the name of
+H.I.R.M. the Emperor, presented various altar furniture and vessels for
+the celebration of mass, which were accepted with many expressions of
+gratitude and delight.
+
+For several days a continuance of heavy gales from the northward prevented
+the departure of the frigate, which gave our friends in Auckland a further
+opportunity of renewing their warm-hearted hospitality. During this delay,
+we also shipped as part of the crew two Maories, who at the last moment
+declared their wish to accompany us. The official correspondence on this
+subject between the Colonial Government and the Commodore is especially
+interesting as illustrating the watchful care taken by the New Zealand
+authorities in protecting the interests of the Maories. The most
+favourable terms were sought to be secured for them, and a special clause
+was inserted providing for their return to their native country free of
+expense, should they express a wish to that effect at the conclusion of
+our voyage. At first four Maories and a half-blood had resolved on making
+the voyage, but when the time for embarkation came, only two adhered to
+their determination, Wiremu Toe-toe Tumohe, and Te Hemara Rerehau Paraone,
+both of Ngatiapakura, and belonging to the powerful Waikato tribe.
+Toe-toe, himself a chief of two small tribes of Ngatiapakura and
+Ngatiwakohike, about 32 years old when he shipped with us, had been
+baptized at 15 by the English missionaries, by whom he had been instructed
+in reading and writing. He had also been trained to agricultural pursuits,
+and at 20 he married the _mestiza_ daughter of an Englishman and Maori
+woman, who had presented him with a son. In his 26th year he entered the
+service of the Colonial Government as post messenger, in which capacity he
+proved himself so useful that he had been for two years postmaster of his
+district, which position he still filled when the _Novara_ arrived.
+Toe-toe was the first to display his willingness to assist Government in
+constructing roads, and by his influence and example not alone induced
+several chiefs to abstain from interposing obstacles in the way of that
+much-needed improvement, but even prevailed upon several of his relatives
+to take a part in their construction. His determination to accompany the
+_Novara_ was solely the result of a long-cherished desire to see foreign
+lands and races. Hemara Rerehau Paraone was fired with a similar wish. He
+was the son of a wealthy relative of Toe-toe, and had been baptized at an
+early age. From 12 to 18 he had frequented a school founded by the English
+missionaries, where he learned to write his mother-tongue, and a little
+English, arithmetic, geography, and history, besides the accomplishments
+of sowing, corn-growing, grinding flour, and baking bread.[55]
+
+At last, on 8th January, the frigate left the harbour of Auckland. Just as
+the sails were let fall, some boats made their appearance crowded with
+friends, who presented us with a last bouquet, ere we went on our way.
+There was also a boat with several natives, and the Vicar-General, who
+wished to saddle us with some wonderfully tattooed Catholic Maories,
+anxious apparently that Protestant Maories should not alone be shipped.
+The zealous father brought with him a letter from the Catholic Bishop,
+Pompallier, and was so intent upon his mission that despite the somewhat
+rapid rate at which the frigate was now cleaving the water, and the
+difficulty which his long black cloak interposed to his movements, he
+would not let go his hold, but held on to the Jacob's ladder in order to
+get personal speech with the Commodore. It was, however, obviously
+impossible to grant his request without further delaying the departure of
+the frigate, and the poor Vicar-general, a warm-hearted Irishman, had to
+make his way down the slippery ladder again into his little boat, and
+return with his _proteges_ to Auckland, his praiseworthy object
+unaccomplished.
+
+As, favoured by fair winds, we sped gaily along to the next object of our
+travels, the Island of Tahiti, our thoughts and wishes were repeatedly
+reverting to New Zealand, where one of our number had remained behind, to
+undertake the solution of so difficult but important a problem. The
+information obtained by our colleague during his eight months' residence
+only came to hand long after the frigate had been safely laid up in
+ordinary in Trieste harbour. However, in order to show more fully the
+activity displayed in surveying this little-explored island, we avail
+ourselves of the following condensed narrative of his labours, drawn up by
+Dr. Hochstetter himself.
+
+"My first field of employment was the province of Auckland. The ample
+assistance placed at my disposal by J. Williamson, Esq., the very
+deserving superintendent of Auckland, enabled me within the short space of
+five months to travel over the greater part of this province, which
+constitutes nearly the whole of the northern island, while pursuing my
+researches for the most part upon a definite plan.
+
+"During the first two months, January and February, Auckland was my
+head-quarters, as the season was not yet suitable for pedestrian
+excursions in the interior. The heat during the summer months is so great,
+and the annoyance caused by the mosquitoes, who during those months
+frequent the forest in millions, is so intolerable, that travelling
+becomes all but impracticable. Neither of these drawbacks exists to any
+great degree in the vicinity of Auckland. The fresh sea-breezes, which
+continually blow across the isthmus, temper the summer heats, and the
+environs being cleared of forest are but little infested by those
+blood-thirsty insects.
+
+"I accordingly applied myself next to those works which during the stay of
+the _Novara_ had been set on foot by myself among the brown-coal-fields
+near the capital, and adjoining the remarkable volcanic formations of
+Auckland, with the view of getting some definite result, in order that I
+might provide for myself a detailed geological sketch of the volcanic
+district, since even the portion in close vicinity to the capital,
+notwithstanding the previous labours of my friend Mr. Heaphy, was, so far
+as regarded geological formation, as much a _terra incognita_ as the
+interior itself.
+
+"The basis of such a geological chart of the Auckland district was
+conveniently supplied by some topographical plottings on the scale of one
+inch to the mile, with which I was provided by the Surveyor-general's
+office. Unfortunately, these sketches almost entirely omitted any notice
+of the description of land surveyed, and, in fact, comprised merely the
+outline of the coast and the net-work of the rivers, so that it became
+necessary to examine for myself the physical features of the country.
+
+"On a closer examination, the variety of geological formation proved to be
+much greater than I had at all anticipated. What chiefly took up my time
+was the investigation of the remarkable extinct volcanic caves of the
+Isthmus of Auckland, which, so far as regards the great number comprised
+within a small space, and the peculiarities of their cave and crater
+configuration as modifying the lava streams, must be pronounced unique of
+their kind. Within a circuit of only ten miles from Auckland I had to mark
+down 61 different points of eruption! An excursion southwards to Manukau
+Harbour, and the mouth of the Waikato westward, led to our finding
+important petrifactions at the south source of the Waikato, and along the
+west coast to the discovery of belemnites and fossil ferns in excellent
+preservation. Thus for the first time the secondary strata of New Zealand
+were bared to view. Further excursions to the Drury and Papakina
+districts, as also to the Wairoa River, were rewarded by the confirmation
+of the extension thither of the brown coal formation, after which I
+extended my investigation northwards to the Waitakeri, and the peninsula
+of Wangaparoa.
+
+"My map, so far as completed, and sent to the Colonial Government for
+their use and to be copied, embraced by the end of February the whole of
+the environs of Auckland for a distance of 20 miles. It brought to light a
+district abounding in most important and remarkable geological features,
+besides a stratum of sedimentary deposit of all the geological periods
+(primary, secondary, tertiary, and diluvial), including numerous volcanic
+phenomena. My collections however embraced a quantity of splendid
+petrifactions, and an immense number of interesting rocks, while the
+botanical and zoological collections were greatly added to through the
+kind assistance of well-wishers of all degrees of the community.
+
+"The question now to be solved was, 'Should I make the northern or the
+southern portion of the province the scenes of further exploration?'
+Properly to examine both was impossible within the short period I could
+remain. I did not hesitate to decide in favour of the southern district,
+and that for a variety of reasons. The southern portion of the province is
+inhabited almost exclusively by natives. Only missionaries, tourists, and
+a few Government officials had hitherto traversed these interesting
+regions. The north of the island, on the other hand, is much better known.
+Numbers of European settlers inhabit the shores of the numerous bays of
+the northern Peninsula. The colonists themselves, by word of mouth, or
+written information, could furnish me with all the information I required
+respecting the natural history of those regions, not to speak of the
+specimens that were constantly being sent me.
+
+"Dieffenbach had already visited every point of importance in the north,
+which he had very fully described in all other essentials, if not
+geologically. The renowned American geologist, Dana, when attached to the
+great expedition despatched by the United States to the Southern
+Ocean,[56] landed at the Bay of Islands, the most important harbour in the
+north, and had given full geological details of that neighbourhood.
+Moreover, my friends, the Rev. A. G. Purchas and C. Heaphy, Esq., during
+my stay in the country, visited several districts in the north, whence
+they brought me collections and specimens of every kind, so that I was by
+no means unacquainted with the north. On the other hand, the broad
+interior of the southern part of the province seemed to me to be almost
+entirely unexplored. Since Dieffenbach's remarkable voyage in 1840, no
+naturalist had visited the remarkable volcanic peaks of the interior, the
+beautiful inland lakes, the boiling springs, the Solfataras and Fumaroles.
+The geological information respecting these conveyed by Dieffenbach's
+narrative of travel, seemed to me very meagre, while topographically the
+interior was a blank. Accordingly, a visit to it seemed to promise the
+most important results.
+
+"Towards the end of February all necessary preparations had been made;
+Capt. Drummond Hay, well known as one of the best Maori scholars, was
+commissioned by Government to lay out my route and act as interpreter. The
+Government, however, forestalled my utmost wish by furnishing me with a
+photographist, as well as an assistant to aid me in meteorological
+observations, and generally to make himself useful in collecting and
+sketching. The latter was a young German, M. Koch, who proved himself a
+most invaluable ally, while M. Hamel took charge of the photography. There
+were also an attendant, a cook, and fifteen natives, to transport baggage.
+
+"I was likewise accompanied by my friend Mr. Haast, who had but recently
+come to New Zealand, sent out by some mercantile firm in London to explore
+the country for colonizing purposes. On the 6th March I set out with my
+numerous company, intending to proceed first from Auckland to Mangatawhiri
+on the Waikato, the chief river of New Zealand that flows from the
+interior. Crossing the Waikato in a native canoe, and afterwards its
+tributary the Waipa, I directed my steps westward from the Mission Station
+on the last-named river in the direction of Whaingarva, Aotea, and Kawhia,
+on the west coast. From Kawhia I struck landwards towards the upper course
+of the Waipa, as far as the Mokan district. Thence, after crossing
+frequent mountain-chains thickly wooded, I reached the source of the
+Wanganui in the Tuhua district, and on 14th April arrived at the majestic
+Lake Taupo, surrounded on every side by the most magnificent volcanic
+caves. Here I was at the very heart of the country, at the foot of the
+still smoking volcano of Tongariro, and its extinct neighbour Ruapahu,
+9200 feet high, and covered with perpetual snow. At the southern
+extremity of the lake is a mission-house, where I received a most
+hospitable welcome, while my Maories received at the hands of Te Heukeu,
+the great Maori chief, a most cordial reception, in conformity with the
+excellent customs of the country. After I had laid out the chart of the
+lake, and examined the springs along its banks, I followed up the Waikato
+by its outlet from the lake, till I reached the very singular chain of
+boiling springs, Solfatare, salt-springs and Fumaroles, which extend in a
+N.E. direction between the active crater of Tongariro and the still active
+volcano of Whakari or White Island on the east coast. On a longer stay,
+the country adjoining the sea along the prolongation of this line
+furnishes the site at Lakes Rotorua, Rotoiti, and Rotomahana (or Hot
+lake), for the _Ngawhas_ and Puias, i. e. boiling springs and geysers with
+siliceous sintu-deposits, as in Iceland, which there display their
+greatest activity. I look upon this locality as presenting the most
+remarkable and extensive chain of hot-springs in the world, Iceland itself
+not excepted.
+
+"By the first week in May we gained the east coast at Maketu, whence we
+kept along the coast as far as Tauranga harbour, and thence once more
+turned our faces towards the interior at the Wai Ho valley, or valley of
+the New Zealand Thames, and thus once more reached the Waikato at
+Maungatautari. I now wandered through the fertile plains of the central
+Waikato basin, to Rangiawhia, the central point of the Maori settlements,
+paid a visit to the Maori king, Potatau te Wherowhero, at his residence,
+Ngaruawahia, at the confluence of the Waikato and Waipah, and so by the
+end of May reached Auckland from the Waikato, by way of Mangatawhiri.
+
+"The results of this expedition, of almost three months' duration, were
+most satisfactory to myself. The weather had been singularly favourable,
+so that I found no insurmountable obstacles, although our route led
+through districts difficult of approach, owing to the frequent recurrence
+of flood, swamp, and almost impervious primeval forest. As my travels were
+undertaken about the period of the New Zealand harvest-time, both of the
+potato and corn crops, there was no lack of provisions. At the various
+missionary stations scattered throughout this region we received the most
+heartfelt hospitality, and even the native chiefs did not fail to receive
+into their tents, and welcome in right hearty fashion, the Te Ratu
+Hokiteta, as I was named in the Maori tongue, with all his numerous train.
+My Maories had proved themselves so willing and obliging, as well as
+cheerful, over the work, and my friends Haast, Hay, Hamel, and Koch, had
+so zealously co-operated with me, that the results achieved were quite
+beyond my most sanguine expectations. I now had complete geographical,
+geological, botanical, and zoological materials in my hands, nor was there
+any lack even of ethnographical specimens.
+
+"My chief object had been to obtain a correct notion of the geography and
+geology of the country. In order to be in a position to make geological
+deductions, I had at the same time to get up the topography, for all that
+was set down in the maps of the interior had not been taken from regular
+hydrographic data, but were mere jottings, which had been laid down from
+the hasty and necessarily imperfect sketches which travelling
+missionaries, public officers, and other casual travellers had brought
+with them. The imperfect charts which the Colonial Government had supplied
+me with, to guide me in pushing to the eastward, only gave the inhabited
+points along the coast, and even a few miles distant from Auckland were so
+much waste paper. To remedy this I had recourse, from the very
+commencement, to a system of triangulation, by means of an Azimuth
+compass, based upon the nautical survey of the coast made by Capt. Drury,
+which I prosecuted, with the invaluable assistance of Capt. Drummond Hay,
+from the west coast to the east. The natives, who, in their profound
+distrust of the government land speculations, always threw every possible
+obstacle in the way of the land-surveyors and provincial engineers, so
+soon as they made their appearance, theodolite in hand, on any land not
+yet purchased, never once disturbed us. They knew I was a stranger, who
+was only going to stay a few months in the country, and accordingly made
+it a point of honour that I should carry home with me as high an opinion
+as possible of the country. At every remarkable point the chiefs stationed
+guides, and accompanied me to the summits of the mountains, whence I made
+my observations, and with great readiness furnished me with the name of
+every hill and stream visible, as well as the valleys and lakes within
+sight, and explained in their own way the geography of the district. On my
+side I collected carefully all the information I could glean respecting
+the natives, and in this fashion I believe I have rescued from oblivion a
+number of beautiful and highly-characteristic names. The configuration of
+the soil I always sketched off on the spot, and thus brought away from my
+tour materials sufficient to enable me to prepare during my stay in
+Auckland a topographical chart of the southern part of the island on a
+large scale, reserving for more mature consideration, at a future day, the
+preparation of a carefully revised edition of this provisional map.
+
+"The barometrical observations made during this tour were reduced by
+comparison with those of the Royal Engineer's Observatory at Auckland, the
+tables used in which were obligingly put at my disposal by Colonel Mould,
+R.E.
+
+"There are also to be noticed an immense number of drawings and
+photographs, taken during the Expedition, as also some very valuable
+landscape sketches, made for me by Mr. Heaphy.
+
+"There still remained, however, a most interesting object for examination
+in the vicinity of Auckland, namely, the Cape Colville peninsula on the
+eastern shores of Hauraki Bay. The discovery of gold in Coromandel Harbour
+on this coast, had some years before created great excitement. I devoted a
+few days of fine weather in the month of June to visiting these
+gold-fields; a projected visit to the copper-mines of Great Barrier
+Island, and the Island of Kawau, had unfortunately to be abandoned, owing
+to bad weather.
+
+"With this, the period of my stay at Auckland was drawing to a close. At
+the request of the members of the Mechanics' Institute, I delivered on the
+24th June, shortly before my departure, a lecture in the hall of the
+society, upon the geological capabilities of the province, in which I
+threw together the chief results of my investigations, and illustrated
+them by means of roughly-executed charts, plans, sketches, and
+photographs. As I had neither time nor complete material for a more
+extended report, it was on this lecture that Government relied for an
+account of my various operations. The arrangement and careful packing of
+the collections, and the drawing the maps, delayed my departure for some
+weeks, and after my days of labour followed others, still more impossible
+to forget, of agreeable society and festive meetings, ere I could tear
+myself away from the inhabitants of Auckland. Thousands of mementos of New
+Zealand were thrust into my hands. My collections comprised treasures of
+all sorts, such as must for ever engrave on my memory the forests and
+mountains of New Zealand. But I had yet again to thank the good people of
+Auckland for a last souvenir of their kindly feeling and generosity to
+myself. On the 24th July I was invited to a banquet in the name of the
+province, at which I was presented, in terms far too flattering, with an
+address,[57] accompanied by an elegant and valuable testimonial.
+
+"Unfortunately, owing to want of time, I could not respond to the cordial
+invitation extended to me to make a lengthened stay, accompanied by
+further surveys of Wellington and New Plymouth (Province of Taranaki), and
+Ahuhiri (Province of Hawke's Bay). So, too, I was compelled gratefully to
+decline a kind invitation from the Governor to accompany him on an
+expedition to the Southern Island, on board H.M.'s frigate _Iris_,
+preferring to accept a previous invitation from the Superintendent of the
+Province of Nelson, as a visit to Middle Island seemed of special
+importance, however short my stay. It not alone satisfied me of the
+justice of the name assigned to Nelson, of being the 'Garden of New
+Zealand,' but also kept me fully occupied in examining its variety of
+mineral treasures, such as copper, gold, coal, &c., which have made the
+province the chief mineral and metalliferous district of New Zealand. And
+how was it possible for me to come back to Europe without having seen the
+splendid chain of the Southern Alps, and their summits crowned with
+perpetual snow?
+
+"Accordingly, on 28th July, I embarked on board the steamer _Lord Ashley_,
+bound for Cook's Straits. The voyage gave me the opportunity, as the
+vessel called at Nelson and Wellington both (anchoring at the latter),
+before entering Blind Bay, of paying a flying visit to both those
+localities. Thus, on 30th of July I had a splendid view of the lofty
+Taranaki mountain (Mount Egmont), 8270 feet high, and was enabled to
+study, among the sugar-loaf rocks of the Taranaki coast, the peculiarities
+of the trachytic lava of this the most regular in shape of the volcanic
+peaks of New Zealand. After a stormy passage through Cook's Straits, we
+landed on 1st August at Wellington, and reached Nelson on the 3rd.
+
+"I was received in the most cordial manner by the denizens of Nelson, who,
+while the _Novara_ lay at anchor at Auckland, had extended to the members
+of the Expedition a most cordial invitation.
+
+"The provincial Government, under the advice of the excellent
+superintendent, J. P. Robinson, Esq., had already issued the requisite
+instructions to enable me to make the utmost possible use of the time at
+my disposal for geological survey, and had chartered for me the steamer
+_Tasmanian Maid_, so as to enable me to visit with all possible dispatch
+the most important formations on the shores of Blind and Golden Bays.
+
+"The geological field which is opened up on the Middle Island, was
+entirely new as compared with the Northern Island. In the neighbourhood of
+Nelson, the Southern Alps send off outliers, in the shape of
+mountain-chains, 5000 and 6000 feet high, covered in winter with deep
+snow, as far as Cook's Straits. The western chains are composed of primary
+crystalline rocks, granite, gneiss, micaceous and hornblend slate,
+quartz, and clay slate, whereas sedimentary sandstone, chalk, and almost
+vertical stratifications, constitute the chief formations observable in
+the eastern chain. Between these older formations, however, among the
+valleys and depressions, occur later stratifications, including brown coal
+or peat.
+
+"A succession of splendid weather was gladly hailed as an evidence of the
+renowned climate of Nelson, and my very first excursions opened to me such
+interesting subjects of inquiry, that I was fain to decide on prolonging
+till September the month's visit I had originally determined on
+restricting myself to. I was thus enabled to examine more minutely the
+various gold and coal-fields near Nelson, as also the copper-mines on the
+Dun Mountains, and at all events to represent on a chart the geological
+features of the northern part of the province.
+
+"The results of the investigations into the mineral wealth of this
+province were on the whole eminently favourable. I could not indeed
+confirm the sanguine anticipations of some mining speculators, of the
+inexhaustible, though as yet unrevealed, treasures of copper in the Dun
+Mountains, although, adjoining the rather meagre copper-bearing strata,
+there were instances of abundance of chromate of iron, which promised a
+considerable return. Above all, however, there still remained to be
+visited the gold-fields of the Aorere and Tetakaka valleys at Golden Bay,
+the quantity already extracted from which, as well as its purity,
+satisfied me that capital might secure a splendid return here by a more
+extended and systematic mode of working, and that the discovery of this,
+the first of the New Zealand gold-fields, is but the commencement of a
+series of such along the range of hills which traverses the Middle Island;
+discoveries which, though perhaps not on so extensive a scale as those of
+Australia and California, must nevertheless tend to raise higher and
+higher the rank of New Zealand among the gold-producing countries of the
+earth. Lastly, it was found that in the province of Nelson, side by side
+with the ordinary strata in which the brown coal occurs in North Island,
+were beds of coal of a very superior quality. The excellent but
+unfortunately very limited coal-fields of Pakawau give ground for
+anticipating that in other localities it may very probably be possible to
+discover larger and more easily-worked beds, and my friend Haast has, in
+fact, since my visit discovered such on Buller-and-Grey river, on the
+Western shore of the province of Nelson.
+
+"During my stay in Nelson my collections waxed in amount to an unusual
+degree. In vain had I attempted while in North Island to discover remains
+of the gigantic extinct bird of New Zealand, or the bones of the
+_Dinornis_ and _Palapteryx_, Moa of the natives. These researches met with
+far greater success in Middle Island. The chalk valleys of the Aorere
+valley furnished us with splendid specimens of these singular and rare
+remains of birds. Not merely were individual bones daily discovered,
+through the indefatigable exertions of my friend Haast, but from time to
+time entire skeletons more or less perfect. Besides these, I was
+presented with a very valuable complete skeleton of the _Palapteryx
+ingens_ (Owen), from the Nelson Museum, so that the collection of
+remains[58] of the Moa, which I brought back with me to Vienna, is
+scarcely, if at all, inferior to the valuable series of relics of an
+extinct race of birds which at present adorns the British Museum.
+
+"I must express my thankful sense of the kindness with which my friends
+Dr. Monro, Capt. Rough Travers, Messrs. Adams, Curtis, and many others,
+contributed minerals, plants, and zoological specimens to the enrichment
+of my collections of natural history. I am also deeply indebted to Messrs.
+Campbell and Burnett for several exquisite landscape sketches, and the
+Provincial Government for a variety of interesting photographic pictures
+of the environs of Nelson.
+
+"It was with regret I tore myself from a region where so much remained to
+discover, and so much hitherto unexamined to explore. In the higher and
+more remote regions of the Southern Alps, never yet trodden by human foot,
+there was nothing left for me to do. From the shores of the Rotoito lake
+(Lake Arthur) I could see the southernmost point reached by me, where the
+lofty pinnacles of the southern range, crowned with perpetual snow, rose
+grandly before me. I could but picture to myself the majesty and sublimity
+of those hills, which my friend and travelling companion, J. Haast,
+succeeded in ascending in 1860-61, after indescribable difficulties and
+hardships, which redounded to the credit of German 'pluck' and
+perseverance, as the results did honour to German science.
+
+"My time had now been stretched to its utmost limit, and I had to prepare
+for my return to Europe. In a lecture upon the geology of the province,
+which I delivered at Nelson on 29th September, I presented in a succinct
+form the results of my observations. An extract from this lecture,
+accompanied by a copy of my geological map, I presented to the Provincial
+Government of Nelson and the Colonial Government of Auckland.
+
+"I cannot conclude without recording the numerous instances of
+consideration and unexpected kindness which I received at the hands of the
+inhabitants of Nelson, and especially for their flattering and gratifying
+appreciation of my labours, which at the close of the lecture already
+mentioned took the form of an address,[59] accompanied by an elegant and
+appropriate souvenir, consisting of a beautifully-finished cabinet,
+composed of the various coloured woods of New Zealand.
+
+"On 2nd October, 1859, I embarked for Sydney, on board the steamer _Prince
+Alfred_. After a short sojourn in the capital of New South Wales, I went
+on to Melbourne, whence I visited the most important of the gold-fields of
+the colony of Victoria, and by the middle of November returned _via_
+Mauritius and the Red Sea to Europe."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Such is the account given by our geologist of his proceedings while the
+_Novara_ was steering homewards. The voyage to the Society Islands
+Archipelago promised at first to be very speedy, but ere long was
+seriously delayed by strong contrary winds, and while, on the one hand, we
+could make but short tacks, we had on the other not merely to forego the
+pleasure of clear sunny weather, but had the miserable prospect of nothing
+but squalls and rain. Our additions to our natural history collections
+were likewise very scanty, and even our most important capture, a shark 10
+feet 4 inches in length, and weighing 174 lbs., was much more of a treat
+to the sailors than an acquisition to science.
+
+The only circumstance throughout the voyage which made a certain
+impression was the passage of the meridian of 180 deg., about 11 P.M., on the
+10th of January, so that we had now entered upon W. longitude again.
+Accordingly, there was no small astonishment among the sailors, when a day
+seemed suddenly to be dropped out of our reckoning, and orders were issued
+that Monday, 10th January, should be entered twice in all journals and
+reckonings, that is, should be entered for that and the following day
+also, so as to prevent our returning to Europe with the log one day ahead
+of the calendar. Of course a little explanation soon satisfied all
+landsmen of the necessity of the alteration, but their amazement reminds
+me of the dismay of earlier Catholic navigators, when they found they had
+been keeping irregular fast days. Thus, when the first circumnavigation of
+the globe was made by Magelhaen, who sailed in the _San Lucas de
+Barrameda_ on 20th September, 1519, he found on his return, after a three
+years' cruise, to Santiago, one of the Cape De Verd Islands, that the
+Portuguese there were keeping Thursday, the 10th July, 1522, whereas his
+log marked Wednesday, the 9th, he having doubled the Horn and sailed from
+east to west. The idea of having lost a day of their lives disquieted the
+worthy and pious mariners far less than the fact that they had observed
+Lady-day erroneously, and had eaten meat on fast days! On their return to
+Spain they could not get credit for the lost day, which was set down to an
+error in reckoning, the meaning being that they had omitted the
+intercalary day in February, 1520. Peter Martyr spoke concerning this to
+the renowned Venetian ambassador, Contarini, who at once pointed out that
+a day must necessarily be lost in the course steered by the _Victoria_,
+while, on the other hand, a day would have been gained by sailing from W.
+to E. One consequence of this proof of the sphericity of the earth was,
+that it at once became obviously necessary to draw a line of demarcation
+between the Spanish and Portuguese settlements. Thus, too, Captain Steen
+Bille relates, that when he sailed from Tahiti he logged his departure as
+on Friday, 18th December, whereas on the adjacent island of Borra-Borra
+they were already reckoning it the 19th. The mode of reckoning at Tahiti
+corresponded with his own, but only, it would seem, in consequence of an
+alteration which had been made a few weeks previously. In short, the mode
+of reckoning time among the South Sea Archipelagoes depends solely upon
+whether they have been approached in the first instance from the west or
+the east by the navigator who has introduced among them the Christian
+Calendar. However, so long as the discrepancy is not too great, a
+conventional mode of computation is employed, and one general epoch is
+used for all groups of islands in or near the meridian of 180 deg. In any
+case, it is a matter of indifference to the brown natives of these island
+groups whether or not they correspond with Greenwich at a given hour of a
+given day.
+
+On 4th February the look-out man at the mast-head sung out "Land on the
+lee-bow!" This proved to be the small island of Tubuai, of the Rorutu
+Archipelago, the inhabitants of which at present seem to be likewise under
+the "careful" protection of France.
+
+At length, on 11th February, we came in sight of Tahiti and the outlying
+Island of Eimeo or Morea, after which we tacked towards the latter, which
+we approached so closely that we could quite plainly distinguish its
+singular serrated outline, its precipitous crags, and its crater-like
+depressions, as well as the thick, gloomy forests that clothe its secluded
+valleys. Many of these pinnacles and steep rocky declivities presented all
+the appearance of a series of colossal ruins of cities and palaces,
+protected by towers, battlements, and embrasures. About 4 P.M. we hove to
+off Papeete. The entrance into this harbour, surrounded by coral reefs
+which indeed form the haven, is exceedingly narrow, the fair way for the
+frigate not exceeding half a cable's length. As no pilot boat was visible,
+a blank shot was fired, and a certain signal hoisted, upon which a small
+boat pulled off with the long-looked for pilot. At 6 P.M. we cast anchor
+in 11 fathoms water, in clay ground. In the harbour were three whalers, a
+French transport, and the dispatch steamer _Milan_, which had left Sydney
+twelve days before us, had remained three days at New Caledonia, whence it
+had been 54 days on the voyage to Papeete, only making use of its steam in
+the most urgent cases. We ran up the flag of the French Protectorate at
+the main-mast-head, and saluted the city with the customary 21 guns, which
+were replied to by a field battery, which had to be brought down to the
+beach for the purpose. Much astonishment was expressed that we should have
+ventured to run the frigate through the narrow channel between Eimeo and
+Tahiti, which has a very bad repute, and is very rarely attempted by
+vessels of large size, but, as we ourselves experienced, is perfectly
+practicable with a favourable wind, and greatly shortens the approach to
+the harbour.
+
+With the consent of the Governor, who received us with much cordiality (no
+intelligence having as yet reached these waters of the diplomatic
+misunderstandings which at our antipodes were forming the prologue as it
+were of the war that broke out somewhat later), we were permitted to use
+the islet of Motu-Uta, lying in the harbour, for the purpose of carrying
+on, free from interruption, our astronomical, meteorological, and magnetic
+observations. A simple wooden hut which we found upon the island served
+for an observatory, while quantities of slender-stemmed cocoa-palms,
+waving their rustling green canopies overhead, invited us to welcome
+repose after the exhaustion of the day's labour. To this smiling islet,
+which rose in the midst of the bay like a basket of flowers, King Pomare
+II. once retired, there to translate the Holy Scriptures into Tahitian.
+Here, too--probably in the very hut which now served us as an
+observatory--it was that the same sovereign, when old, spent whole days,
+and occasionally, according to tradition, indulged so freely in cognac
+that he was frequently heard, when in that state, to say to himself,
+"Pomare, Pomare! thy _puan_ (pig) were now better fitted to reign than
+thou!"
+
+
+                              FOOTNOTES:
+
+[29] We are indebted to C. W. Stafford, Esq., Under Secretary of State to
+the Colonial Government, for copies of the latest statistical documents,
+from which we learn _inter alia_ that at the end of 1859 the population
+amounted to 129,392, the aborigines numbering 56,049, and the foreigners
+73,343.
+
+[30] According to the tradition handed down from the chief
+Te-he[)u]-he[)u], their forefathers emigrated first from
+Hawaiki-Tawiti-Nui, to Hawaiki-Patata, where they sojourned some
+time, and thence went to Hawaiki-Ki-te-Maite[)u], whence they came
+to New Zealand.
+
+[31] According to Dr. Thomson ("The story of New Zealand past and present,
+savage and civilized." London. John Murray, 1859), who lived eleven years
+at Auckland prosecuting his duties as a surgeon in the army, the Maori
+came to New Zealand, passing by Rarotonga, from Sawaii, the largest of the
+Navigators' Islands, about the year 1419. This opinion, which is not
+devoid of probability, is not however incompatible with the Sandwich
+Islands being the original cradle of the New Zealanders, and Sawaii only a
+sort of intermediate station. (See United States Exploring Expedition
+1838-42. Ethnography or Philology, vol. vii., by Horatio Hale,
+Philadelphia. Lea and Blanchard, 1846.--The Traditionary Migrations of the
+New Zealanders and the Maori Legends (_Die Wundersagen der Neu-Seelaender
+und der Maori Mythos_), by C. Schirren. Riga. N. Kymmel, 1856.)
+
+[32] The sick were formerly made to drink the fluid contained in the
+shells of fresh and salt-water _Conchyliae_.
+
+[33] Of these the most important are:--"Polynesian Mythology, and ancient
+traditional History of the New Zealand Race, as furnished by their Priests
+and Chiefs. London, 1855." "Proverbial and Popular Sayings of the
+Ancestors of the New Zealand Race. Capetown, 1857."
+
+[34] New Zealand: being a Narrative of Travels and Adventures during a
+Residence in that Country, between the years 1831 and 1837. By J. S.
+Polack, Esq., member of the Colonial Society of London. In two volumes.
+London, Rich. Bentley, 1838.--Travels in New Zealand, with contributions
+to the Geography, Geology, and Natural History of that Country. By Ernest
+Dieffenbach, M.D., late Naturalist to the New Zealand Company. 2 vols.
+London, J. Murray, 1843.--The Southern Districts of New Zealand; a Journal
+with passing Notices of the Customs of the Aborigines.--By Edward
+Shortland, M.A., London, Longman and Co. 1851.--A Dictionary of the New
+Zealand Language and a concise Grammar; to which is added a Collection of
+Colloquial Sentences. By W. Williams, D.C.L., Archdeacon of Waiapu.
+London, 1852.--The Ika-a-Maui, or New Zealand and its Inhabitants. By R.
+Taylor. London, 1855.--A Leaf from the Natural History of New Zealand. By
+R. Taylor. Wellington, New Zealand, 1848.--New Zealand, the "Britain of
+the South." By Charles Hursthouse. London, E. Stanford, 1861. Of purely
+scientific works relating to botany, Dr. Hooker's "Flora of New Zealand"
+may be mentioned as the most comprehensive.
+
+[35] Rona is a Maori maiden of whom a legend relates that the moon,
+irritated at her petulant disposition, carried her off to the upper
+regions.
+
+[36] The dead is here spoken of as the evening star, which is supposed to
+rise in another world, where on its arrival it is welcomed with great
+rejoicings by the thousands that have preceded it.
+
+[37] Main is the same as the Kumera, or sweet potato.
+
+[38] Tikoro is the name of a race or tribe of the Hokianga district.
+
+[39] A Maori, who maintained his neutrality, though he evidently views the
+victories of his countrymen with partial eyes, wrote us only a few months
+ago, "that in the combats which marked the first outbreak of hostilities,
+the English lost 2000 and the Maories only 1000!"
+
+[40] Maori Mementos, being a series of Addresses presented by the Native
+People to H.E. Sir George Grey, Governor and High Commissioner of the Cape
+of Good Hope, and late Governor of New Zealand, with introductory remarks
+and explanatory notes; to which is added a small Collection of Laments,
+&c., by Charles Olivier B. Davis, translator and interpreter to the
+General Government. Auckland, 1855. Also, "The New Zealand chief Kawiti,
+and other New Zealand warriors." Auckland, 1855.
+
+[41] Potatau (i. e. shriek by night) was so far back as 1833, during the
+bloody contests of the Waikatos against the Taranaki, a renowned warrior
+and cannibal, who at that period, according to undoubted authority, had
+with his own hand slain 200 of the foe, and had returned home from the
+battle-field satiated with human flesh, and rich in slaves. In the evening
+of his days he was an advocate of peace, and a friend of the whites. When
+he died, in 1860, his son, second of the name, was declared his successor.
+
+[42] Observations on the State of the Aboriginal Inhabitants of New
+Zealand. By F. D. Fenton, the compiler of the statistical tables of the
+native population. Auckland, 1859. "The object of the publication by the
+Government of this paper is to draw attention to the state of the native
+population, especially to the decrease in numbers--_with a view to invite
+inquiry as to the cause, and suggestions of a remedy_."
+
+[43] Of the enormous waste of human life caused by these wars some idea
+may be formed from the fact that at the storming and capture of the single
+_pah_ of Matakitaki on the river Waipa 2000 warriors were killed; a larger
+amount of killed than that of the English army at Waterloo!
+
+[44] Of the bitter feelings excited by the Maori revolt among the
+inhabitants of Australia, an idea may be formed from the fact that Dr.
+Mackay, a well-known personage in political circles at Melbourne,
+seriously proposed to the Government of Victoria to send a volunteer
+expeditionary force to the seat of war, to assist in suppressing the
+rebels. The expenses, which Dr. Mackay estimated at L15,000 to L20,000,
+were to be repaid by sales of land in the conquered portion. Nay, this
+learned expounder of the "law" went so far as to pronounce the subjugation
+of these "savages" as imperatively necessary. The men were to be shipped
+off to Melbourne, to work as "SLAVES" for seven years; the females to be
+carried away and disposed of as wives for the Chinese and well-conducted
+white convicts! Dr. Cairns, Bishop of Melbourne, and other ministers of
+the gospel, adds this humane philanthropist, to be at liberty to use "_all
+fair means_" (!!!) for their conversion.--Compare _Sydney Morning Herald_,
+Saturday, July 21st, 1860.
+
+[45] The most important American, Indian, and Australian markets may be
+reached by screw steamer from Auckland as follows:--
+
+                     Miles     Days
+  New Caledonia      1250       5
+  Tahiti             2380       9
+  Sandwich Islands   4060      14
+  Valparaiso         5420      20
+  San Francisco      5950      22
+  Batavia            4750      17
+  Manila             4650      17
+  Singapore          5050      18
+  Calcutta           6820      26
+  Sydney             1260       5
+  Melbourne          1420       6
+  Adelaide           1780       7
+  Hobart Town        1250       5
+  Panama             5320      20
+
+If the contemplated route _via_ Panama be made available (with a coaling
+station at Gambier Islands), some 3500 miles or 14 days' sail would be
+saved, so that New Zealand would be reached in from 41 to 48 days, and
+Sydney and Melbourne in about 53 and 54 days respectively.
+
+[46] According to Dr. Thomson's meteorological observations, the following
+are the averages for the town of Auckland (36 deg. 50' S.), temperature
+59-1/2 deg. Fahr.; rain-fall 45-1/2 inches; days on which rain falls 160;
+barometer 29.95 inches.
+
+[47] Not less interesting are the returns as to the number of soldiers
+attacked with consumption and who died of it at the various garrisons,
+which are as follows: Of 1000 soldiers there were
+
+                        Attacked  Died
+  In New Zealand           60     2.7
+  At Cape of Good Hope     98     3
+  In Australia            133     5.8
+  At Malta                120     6
+  In Canada               148     6.7
+  In Great Britain        148     8
+
+[48] These grants, however, are only made to the person who actually
+defrays the expenses of the passage: thus they are not made to children,
+but to their parents; not to the servant, but to the master, who has paid
+the passage of the former.
+
+[49] Besides the Kauri pine, there is abundance of Rimu or red pine, the
+Kahi-Katea or white pine, the Tanakaha or pitch pine, the Matan or black
+pine, as also the Puriri or New Zealand oak, all trees of great utility.
+
+[50] At the period of the _Novara's_ visit to Auckland the proportion of
+the various nationalities and religions were as follows:
+
+               Nations.
+  Irish                        11,881
+  Scotch                       11,881
+  English                      35,644
+  Germans and other nations       594
+                               ------
+                               60,000
+
+              Religions.
+  Catholics                     7,500
+  Presbyterians                 7,500
+  Wesleyans and Dissenters     15,000
+  Episcopalians                30,000
+                               ------
+                               60,000
+
+[51] The Government also publishes at its own expense a Maori paper
+weekly, Te Karere Maori, the Maori Messenger, the subscription to which
+is 5_s._ 6_d._ per annum, and is intended to keep the coloured
+population informed of the most important political and social events,
+as also to tend to their civilization. We subjoin the contents of a
+single number now lying before us. "The laws of England.--Remarks upon
+ship-owners.--Official notices.--Letter from the chiefs of Chatham
+Island.--Farming, commercial, and maritime news.--Price current.--Speech
+of some brown chiefs at a meeting at Mongonui.--Letter from Bay of
+Islands.--Deaths.--The Auckland infirmary.--Government orders, &c."
+Colonel Brown deserves special praise and acknowledgment for the
+publication of the laws of England in Maori, accompanied with the
+original text, although the fruits of this arduous but important labour
+may only gradually become apparent.
+
+[52] It is especially worthy of remark, that wherever the Anglo-Saxon race
+colonize, the newspaper and the post-office follow the footsteps of the
+first settlers. After these come the church and the school-house.
+Newspaper perusal and dispatch of letters are among the first necessities
+of life to the Englishman. In the whole of New Zealand there were, in
+1858, 64,357 copies of the various journals struck off, and 482,856
+letters received and dispatched. The province of Auckland alone figures
+for 239,367 papers and 133,121 letters.
+
+[53] See Appendix III.
+
+[54] See Appendix IV.
+
+[55] These two Maories, who at first were very much depressed, soon got
+reconciled to their new sphere, and by their excellent conduct and
+obliging disposition, presently became great favourites among the crew.
+Only during our rough passage round the Horn, the tremendous storms and
+the unaccustomed severity of the cold caused them great uneasiness; they
+thought, as they themselves said, that "they must have died then;" and
+great were their longings for their native country. When at last they
+arrived safely and in excellent health at Trieste, they travelled to
+Vienna in company with one of the members of the Expedition, where,
+through the kindness of Privy Councillor von Auer, they entered into the
+Imperial-Royal Printing House, and were also instructed in the most
+important and interesting particulars of European civilization. Mr.
+Zimmerl, a member of that Institution, who had made the Maori idiom a
+special study, taught them English and German, as well as the manipulation
+of types and lithography, besides copper-plate engraving and drawing from
+nature. So intelligent and anxious for improvement did they prove
+themselves to be, that the Imperial Government were requested by the
+Directors of the State Printing Office to present the two Maories on their
+return to their native country with the necessary implements to enable
+them to avail themselves at home of the knowledge they acquired under such
+creditable circumstances. During their nine months' stay in Vienna, they
+were made acquainted with all the "lions" of the metropolis, and all the
+manners and customs of European civilized life. Of all the numerous sights
+that must have astonished their unaccustomed senses, there was none that
+seemed to have made a more powerful impression than the Railway, "the most
+splendid evidence of the powers of the foreigners, compared with which all
+others are unimportant, and which they earnestly trust will soon be
+introduced into New Zealand." The culmination of their visit to Vienna
+consisted in a visit they paid to their Majesties in the Imperial Palace,
+by whom they were received with the most gracious consideration, and
+orders issued that they should receive a handsome present, and have their
+return to their native country defrayed at the Government cost. On 26th
+May, 1860, the two New Zealanders quitted Vienna, and travelled through
+Germany to London, where they stayed several weeks, were presented to the
+Queen, and embarked at Southampton for Auckland direct. They arrived in
+safety at home, and have since then repeatedly written to their friends
+and associates in Vienna. The style of these epistles is in the highly
+figurative style peculiar to New Zealand. They abound in repetitions, and
+are not very inventive in rounding their sentences or giving their
+impressions, though they occasionally surprise the reader by the
+tenderness and poetic fervour of their thoughts. Thus, for example,
+Toe-toe writes once from Vienna to one of the Expedition resident at
+Trieste: "Thou art at Trieste, on the sea-shore! We climbed the Leopold
+Berg,--thence to descry the clouds which floated over Styria. Trieste we
+could not see, for our eyes were veiled by the tears which flowed from
+them!" The news we have received of Toe-toe since have been rather
+distressing. He issues from the press, presented to him at Vienna,
+stirring publications, comparing the Maories to Pharaoh (?) and exciting
+them to declare their independence!
+
+[56] Commanded by Captain Wilkes, recently so notorious by his conduct
+with reference to the English mail steamer _Trent_, in Nov. 1861.
+
+[57] See Appendix V.
+
+[58] Of this wonderful bird a cast was moulded in gypsum, and has been
+sent to the great International Exhibition, 1862.
+
+[59] See Appendix.
+
+
+               [Illustration: Native Fete to the Governor]
+
+
+
+
+                                   XX.
+
+                                 Tahiti.
+
+            Duration of Stay From 11th To 28th January, 1859.
+
+    State of the island at the close of last century.--The London
+    Missionary Society and its emissaries.--Great mortality among
+    the native population.--First arrival of Catholic Priests in
+    Oceania.--French Protectorate and its consequences.--The
+    Tahitian Parliament and Tahitian debaters.--William Howe.--Adam
+    Kulczycki.--Scientific aims and achievements.--The Catholic
+    mission.--_Pre Catalan_ and native dances.--Prisoners of war
+    from New Caledonia.--Point Venus.--Guava-fields.--The fort of
+    Fautaua.--Lake Waiiria.--Popular _Fete_ at Faaa.--Ball given by
+    the Governor.--Queen Pomare.--Geographical notes on Tahiti and
+    Eimeo.--Climate.--Vegetation.--The Kawa root, and the
+    intoxicating drink produced from it.--Great expense of the
+    French Stations in Oceania.--Projects of reform.--Results of
+    English and French colonization.--Two convicts.--Departure.--The
+    Whaler _Emily Morgan_.--Attempt to fix the zero point of
+    magnetic declination.--"Colique vegetale."--A victim.--Pitcairn
+    Island.--A fire-side tale of the tropical world.--An accident
+    without ill results.--Humboldt's Current.--Arrival at
+    Valparaiso.
+
+
+Of all the innumerable islands of the vast Pacific, there is none which at
+various periods has attracted the attention and aroused the interest of
+the civilized world in the same degree as that in whose harbour we were
+now lying at anchor. At first it was the inimitable grace of Cook's
+narrative of his stay in Otaheite,[60] and the simplicity and felicity of
+its inhabitants, that left a deep and permanent impression on the mind of
+the educated reader; in after-times occurrences of a political nature
+riveted the sympathy of Europe upon this distant island and its queen.
+
+Before entering upon a description of the present condition of Tahiti we
+may be permitted to cast a hasty retrospect as to the state of the group
+when the first English missionaries arrived on the Society Islands.
+
+It was in March, 1797, about 18 months after the foundation of the
+Missionary Society in London, that eighteen ministers of the everlasting
+gospel landed in Tahiti, with their wives and children, from the renowned
+ship _Duff_. This small community dispersed itself among the various
+islands, and had to make head against obstacles of unwonted magnitude
+during a series of years. At length, about 1803, shortly after the death
+of King Pomare I., who had raised himself from the position of a mere
+chief to the sovereignty of the island,[61] Christianity began to take
+root and spread abroad through the country. In 1812 Pomare II., the eldest
+son and successor of Otu, declared himself of the Christian faith. Five
+years later a further accession of missionaries arrived in a merchantman
+from New South Wales, who, among other things, brought with them a small
+printing press. Then for the first time the natives of the Society Islands
+learned to comprehend the blessedness of the greatest discovery of all
+time. On 30th June, 1817, after much preliminary instruction by the
+missionaries, the first proof of a catechism was struck off by King Pomare
+II. In the course of the same year there were issued from the missionary
+press at Papeete 2300 copies of a little alphabet book.
+
+It was the same ship that brought the first horse to the island, a present
+from the owner of the vessel to King Pomare. The natives could not conceal
+their amazement when they saw the captain astride of the splendid animal.
+Very striking was the remark made by King Pomare on the occasion: "King
+George of England," said he, "rides on a horse; but King Pomare, a yet
+mightier king, sits at public solemnities upon the neck of one of his
+subjects!"
+
+The labours of the missionaries were crowned with the most splendid
+success. To them is due the merit of having abolished the hideous custom
+of human sacrifice, of having introduced law and order into the native
+administration, and of having extirpated various odious vices from their
+social habits. By their representatives, King Pomare II. was induced to
+prohibit all distilleries and places where the kawa-drink was fabricated.
+Schools and chapels were erected, Bibles and spelling-books were printed
+and disseminated, till within ten years not alone did all the natives
+profess Christianity, but the majority of the younger population had
+learned to read and write.
+
+The cheering spiritual influence exercised by these Protestant
+missionaries over the aborigines was not unfortunately accompanied by a
+simultaneous elevation of their physical condition. In consequence of
+early debauchery and the spread of diseases of a certain class, which
+appear to be the inevitable concomitants of the first contact of the white
+man with primitive races, there has been a marked falling off among the
+population. It almost seems as though the Tahitians had attained the
+utmost pitch of their civilization, and thence, in obedience to a
+mysterious natural law, have been compelled, like so many other coloured
+races, to surrender this lovely abode to a more energetic and
+self-developing race, till the appalling doom befalls them of being erased
+from the list of nations!
+
+Thirty-nine years had elapsed since the first missionary had set foot in
+Tahiti, and Christianity had spread far and wide, before the first
+Catholic priest appeared in Oceania.
+
+Etienne Rochouse, a young priest of the so-called association of Picpus,
+founded at Paris in 1814, had been named "Vicar Apostolic of Eastern
+Oceania," with title of Bishop of Nelopolis _in partibus_, and about the
+close of 1833 embarked at Bordeaux with four missionaries[62] bound for
+Valparaiso, where the holy brethren arrived on 13th May, 1834. Their
+design was, wherever practicable, to forestal the Protestant missionaries
+in their zeal for conversion among the tribes of the South Sea Islands,
+whence they might diffuse themselves over the neighbouring countries, and
+thus gradually introduce themselves among the remotest populations, in the
+hope "that all, whom heresy has led astray and brought under its iron
+yoke, may be freely brought under the mild and gentle yoke of Catholic
+doctrine."[63]
+
+In 1836, the catechist Columban Murphy was dispatched to the Sandwich
+Islands, with instructions to stop at Tahiti on his way, and to make on
+the spot all possible inquiries as to the probable prospects of
+establishing a Catholic mission there. This was the first representative
+of the Romish Church that had visited Tahiti during the thirty-nine years
+this island was evangelized; and, carried away by the blind religious
+fanaticism which in former centuries led the Spanish monks so lamentably
+astray, Murphy believed that "hell itself must have been moved and puzzled
+by such an event!"[64] Murphy, or Columban, as he now called himself,
+travelled as a working carpenter, wore a thick beard, smoked a "cutty"
+pipe, and might have been taken for anything else under the sun than a
+Catholic priest. Although serious misgivings were felt by the native
+authorities as to his real quality, he nevertheless received permission to
+settle upon the island. He accordingly spent a couple of months here, and
+laboured with great zeal to pave the way for a Catholic settlement at a
+future period. In November of the same year, two more missionaries,
+Fathers Caret and Laval, came on to Tahiti. The circumstances under which
+they arrived aroused the suspicions of the authorities and of the entire
+population. For they did not land at Wilks's Harbour, at that time the
+only accessible harbour on the island, but secretly, on the opposite side.
+According to the law of the country, however, no captain or owner of a
+ship was permitted to land a passenger without having previously obtained
+the permission of the Queen or Governor of the island. After the two
+Catholic priests had gone the round of the island and had visited nearly
+all the native villages along the coast, they at last came to Wilks's
+Harbour, now Papeete, where they received a most cordial welcome from a
+Belgian settler, the then American consul, Mr. Moehrenhout.
+
+In the course of an interview which Laval and Caret had with the Queen,
+they remarked that they had only come to teach the word of God, and
+presented the youthful and at that period pretty-looking Queen Pomare with
+a silk shawl. The Queen did not however seem disposed to accede to their
+wishes, but ordered the laws of the country to be read before them. The
+priests however declined listening to them, and took their departure.
+
+A notification was hereupon conveyed to the two strangers that the Queen
+could not permit them to stay any longer upon the island, and a similar
+intimation was made to Mr. Moehrenhout. As the schooner which had brought
+Laval and Caret was preparing to set sail again, the opportunity was
+seized to dismiss them by the same conveyance which had landed them. They,
+meanwhile, had blockaded themselves in a house, to which they refused all
+admission. The schooner thereupon was detained for twenty-four hours, and
+the Queen's officers surrounded the house, awaiting the moment when the
+two missionaries were to leave the place. They never made their appearance
+however. Ultimately the officers of the law were compelled to tear off the
+roof from the house, while others, forcibly seizing the priests, conveyed
+them with their paraphernalia on board the schooner, which at once made
+sail, and carried them back to Gambier Island, whence they had last come.
+Notwithstanding the ill-success of this first venture, Pater Caret made
+his appearance off Tahiti a second time seven weeks later, on board of an
+American brig, accompanied on this occasion by another priest, Father
+Maigrat. The captain of the brig, a man named Williams, wrote the Queen a
+letter requesting permission to land his two passengers. The answer was a
+firm refusal, and so continued, despite the repeated representations of
+the captain, as also of the above-mentioned M. Moerenhout. Upon this the
+captain went to work in true Yankee fashion with the view of landing the
+two Catholic missionaries by force on the island, but had to give way
+before the prudent but decided attitude of resistance adopted by the
+natives, who crowded down to the water's edge and prevented the boats from
+landing. This last attempt to carry matters with a high hand having
+failed, the captain set sail and carried off with him the two
+missionaries.
+
+France, though no longer openly claiming the specific character of a
+Catholic monarchy as in the days of Louis XIV., but, on the contrary,
+proclaiming herself, by her laws at least, a free state for all forms of
+religious worship, apparently thought herself compelled to interfere in
+this quarrel, with all the weight of a great European power, two of whose
+subjects had been treated with unmerited indignity. Accordingly in
+September, 1838, the French frigate _Venus_, commanded by Commodore Du
+Petit-Thouars, appeared off Tahiti to demand satisfaction for the
+ill-treatment of the French missionaries Laval and Caret, which they
+assessed at 2000 Spanish piastres. At the same time a treaty was
+concluded between the French Government and Queen Pomare, by which from
+that time all subjects of the King of France were to be at liberty to
+visit and reside in the Society Islands without molestation, and were to
+enjoy similar privileges with the English.[65]
+
+To this treaty the French captain, La Place, who, in April, 1839, anchored
+in Papeete harbour for repairs to his frigate, the _Artemise_, added
+another article, which was countersigned by the Queen and the principal
+chiefs, and authorized the free celebration of the rites of the Catholic
+religion.[66]
+
+Had these demonstrations on the part of France had for the sole object the
+protection of the interests of Catholicism and French subjects, no
+civilized power could have objected to an act which, in entire consonance
+with the more humane and enlightened spirit of the 19th century, asserted
+the equal rights of every form of religious worship.
+
+But she was not content with removing obstacles or asserting rights;
+political aims, as it proved, were being advanced under cover of a
+struggle on behalf of the Catholic Church; and the events which speedily
+ensued are but a series of acts of violence and humiliations inflicted, so
+entirely unjustifiable, that even the French Government found itself in
+the end compelled to disapprove and condemn the acts of its
+representatives in Oceania.
+
+In September, 1842, M. Du Petit-Thouars came on a second visit to Tahiti.
+He had by this time been promoted to his flag, and had been appointed
+Captain-general of the French stations in the Southern Ocean. He had
+already taken possession of the Marquesas Islands in the name of France,
+and appeared to have come to Tahiti with similar intentions. This second
+visit terminated after the Queen and her subjects had been submitted to
+the most cruel humiliations, in the establishment of a French
+protectorate, which several chiefs demanded in a document addressed by
+them to Louis Philippe, and which the Queen was compelled to subscribe. In
+November, 1843, Du Petit-Thouars came once more to Papeete, and now took
+possession of the entire island, on the flimsy pretext that an intentional
+insult had been given to France, in the shape of a flag which he saw
+waving above the Queen's residence, and which he mistook for that of
+England! The Tahitian flag was forcibly struck by the French soldiers, and
+replaced by that of France, while Tahiti itself was declared a French
+colony. Queen Pomare protested against this new high-handed insult; she
+wrote a letter of complaint to the French monarch, relating the
+extravagances of his officers, and in a dignified and simple address,
+implored the sympathy and support of Queen Victoria.[67]
+
+The violent proceedings of the admiral were not endorsed by the Government
+of Louis Philippe, which recalled Du Petit-Thouars, and restored to Queen
+Pomare the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, but the French protectorate
+remained unaltered, since which the two islands have remained, if not _de
+jure_, at all events _de facto_, a French colony. The administration is
+vested in the hands of a proportionately increased staff of French
+officials, and import and export duties are levied by the French
+authorities, while the Queen herself receives her civil list of L1000 at
+the hands of the "Tresorier et payeur des Etablissements francais en
+Oceanie."[68]
+
+Papeete or Papeiti (_Pape_, water, _Iti_, little), which derives its name
+from a rivulet which falls into the sea here, lies at the bottom of a
+semi-circular bay, seven miles west of Point Venus, the northernmost spot
+of the island. It is the chief town on the island, the residence of the
+Queen, and the seat of government, all which is not incompatible with its
+being of very limited dimensions, not rising above the grandeur of an
+ordinary village. The dwellings of the Europeans, constructed for the most
+part of wood, covered with palm-leaves, partly extend along the shore,
+partly help to make pretty regular streets, amid which rise up on every
+side bread-fruit trees, cocoa-palms, and orange-trees, which make up in
+cheerfulness for any deficiency in stateliness of aspect. Southwards of
+the bay lie a belt of police barracks, the Protestant place of worship
+(_Fare-pure_, house of prayer), and the prison (_Fare-auri_, house of
+iron); eastward it is bounded by the promontory of Fare-Ute, forming a
+sort of dock-yard, where ships of 300 tons can be repaired. Not far from
+the place of disembarkation, and near the centre of the township, rises
+one of the most elegant buildings in Papeete, namely, that where the
+various stores for the troops are housed. The mansion of the Governor
+closely adjoins the residence assigned to the Queen, from which it is only
+separated by a garden hedge. Both are extremely simple and unpretending
+edifices, built of wood, and impress the visitor much less than another
+large quadrangular building, built of stone in the Oriental style, and
+surmounted by a cupola--this is the Fare-Aporaa, or "House of Big Words,"
+which has numerous congeners among more civilized communities. Here, for
+the future, are to be held the sessions of the Legislative Assembly, and
+here the laws of the country are to be debated. Ever since the protecting
+hand of the French Protector has extended itself likewise over the
+unfortunate inhabitants of the Society Islands, the Tahitian parliament is
+opened with all that pomp and tinsel splendour which your true Frenchman
+cannot dispense with, even among the primitive islands of the Pacific. The
+Queen, accompanied by the Governor, proceeds, escorted by a long retinue,
+to the Chamber, and opens the assembly in person, which solemnity is
+announced to the gaping crowd outside by a salvo of twenty-one guns. The
+French Governor, however, plays the most conspicuous part, as in him is
+vested the right of deciding whether the convocation of the chosen of the
+people be requisite or not. Hence it happens that many a year passes when
+it does not suit the wishes of the Governor that parliament should meet.
+On such occasions (such was the case while we were there) the Governor
+promulgates a simple edict to that effect.[69]
+
+The Tahitians, long before the arrival of the French, had a code or
+charter of their own. The last was drawn up in 1823 by the Protestant
+missionaries, upon the model of that of England, and was revised in 1826.
+Its provisions were that the throne should be inherited by either male or
+female descendants of the reigning dynasty. By it the island was divided
+into seven districts; the legislative power was vested in an assembly of
+fourteen members, viz. two from each district, who were to be re-elected
+every three years by the people. This constitution underwent divers
+mutilations at the hands of the French Protectorate, till it had lost all
+importance. At present, however, it is the subject of lively debate, and
+the Tahitian parliament at Papeete can reckon some really distinguished
+speakers; but its solution depends much less upon the conviction of logic
+than the influence of the French officials.
+
+We heard a very remarkable speech from Ravaai, one of the most gifted of
+the native orators, on the occasion of a debate as to whether a law should
+be passed admitting beer and French wines, duty free, into the island.
+Several speakers were of opinion, considering the terrible spread among
+both sexes of drunkenness, with all its attendant evils, that every
+description of spirituous liquor should be prohibited to be sold to the
+natives; Ravaai, on the other hand, spoke in favour of the enactment, and
+in the course of his speech remarked: "If the use of spirituous liquors
+were in itself criminal, as some persons maintain, we should not see it in
+every-day use by the Europeans living amongst us, our pioneers in the path
+of civilization. It is only excess, abuse, that are punishable. This we
+must expect to have to punish, but do not rob us of an inherent right by a
+sumptuary and unnatural prohibition. Your declarations concerning murder,
+incendiarism, ruffianism, all which you adduce as the results of the use
+of brandy, are but oratorical flourishes: spirituous liquors, the misuse
+of which I equally with yourselves deprecate, have, no doubt, produced
+disorders, but these have been suppressed, and if our island had no
+further ills to encounter we might rejoice this day over a future of such
+prosperity and promise! Such, unfortunately, is _not_ the case! People
+tell us of murders and robberies! Go the round of the island! go from
+Mahaena to Punaruu, from Papenoo to Taapua, and a variety of other
+places--climb the mountain to the very summit of Fautaua; ask at these
+abodes of sorrow, baptized with noble blood, and covered with honoured
+graves! Say what has filled the graves of Mahaena with human bones? Is it
+the unlimited use of spirits, or is it not rather the ignorance begotten
+of fanaticism run mad, which disloyally put weapons into your hands? But
+the graves are dumb; and certain persons present may at this moment
+rejoice at that repose. If it is your wish sincerely, and with hope of
+definite results, to forbid the sale of intoxicating stimulants in Tahiti,
+begin by forbidding those mighty nations who trade with our island, and
+are interested in this traffic, from bringing and introducing the
+destroying liquids in their vessels!! But your voices, ye unhappy
+Tahitians, are too feeble to make themselves heard in England, in France,
+in Spain, in America! Well, then, renounce it, deny yourselves!" The law
+was passed by ninety-five votes against thirteen, and, in consequence, not
+merely French wines, but all sorts of liquors, may be sold in Tahiti
+unchecked by license. The penalties for drunkenness have since then formed
+an important source of revenue!
+
+Among the foreigners settled in Papeete our Expedition had reason to be
+especially thankful to Mr. W. Howe, member of the London Missionary
+Society, and M. Adam Kulczycki,[70] director of the administration of
+native matters, two gentlemen, of whom the former has, during a residence
+of twenty-two years in Tahiti, employed in spreading the gospel and
+raising the morals and religious standard of his little flock, proved
+himself as useful a servant, as the latter by his valuable contributions
+to our knowledge of the physical condition of the island. Dr. Nadaud,
+botanist and physician, also laid the Expedition under deep obligations
+by the cordiality with which he placed himself at the disposal of the
+naturalists, to accompany them on their various excursions, and imparting
+to them his own valuable experience, while the splendid and comprehensive
+work of Dr. G. Cuzent[71] upon Tahiti, contributed greatly to assist our
+personal impressions, experiences, and observations. Mr. Howe, the sole
+English missionary now resident in Tahiti, received us with much kindness,
+and escorted us through the various missionary buildings, in which,
+unfortunately, the spiritual energy of bygone years has dwindled away
+under the baleful French Protectorate. The institute for the education of
+teachers and pastors is quite closed,--in the printing establishment,
+which formerly kept ten compositors and two iron hand-presses in constant
+employment, only small religious tracts are now permitted to be sold, and
+these exclusively in Tahitian, a work which one man can easily get
+through. In the missionary library we saw several interesting works and
+manuscripts, mostly of a religious cast. One was shown us which seemed to
+be highly esteemed, and consisted of a thick manuscript treating of
+Tahiti, the author of which was a Mr. Orsmond, the oldest Protestant
+missionary upon the island, who died in 1857. It is said that M.
+Moerenhout, the former Belgian and American consul at Papeete, in his work
+upon Tahiti, availed himself largely of this manuscript, which has also
+been translated into Swedish.
+
+Mr. Howe spoke highly of the liberality of the present Governor, M.
+Saisset, as compared with the intolerance displayed by his predecessors,
+with respect to celebrating Protestant worship. Then, he told us, he was
+not permitted to preach elsewhere than in his chapel, and then only in
+English, whereas now he can perform religious service in other districts
+whenever the natives request him to do so. Moreover, in the dissemination
+of religious tracts and books of prayer, there is much more relaxation
+than formerly, and during the last tour of inspection of the Governor,
+that gentleman himself took with him 500 copies of a translation of the
+Bible, for distribution among the Protestant natives of the districts he
+was about to visit. The want of elementary religious books in the interior
+was so great, that even Catholic teachers had to sue for some, preferring
+Protestant Bibles to having none at all.
+
+Although Mr. Howe is the only one of the fourteen missionaries once
+resident here to whom permission was accorded to remain behind on the
+island, there are nevertheless a great number of native teachers who
+preach and celebrate worship on the Sunday. The _Canakas_,[72] as it is
+the custom to call the natives, on such occasions bring with them to the
+chapel their Bibles and little hymn-books in a small case made of plaited
+palm fibre, a modern department of Tahitian industry, and, in the interior
+more especially, observe the Sabbath with much strictness.[73] It may be
+reckoned that by far the larger number of the inhabitants of Tahiti and
+Eimeo, or Morea, profess Protestantism, whereas the number of native
+Catholics does not exceed 100 in both islands. Notwithstanding the
+numerous advantages which the Catholic Church has enjoyed since the
+establishment of the French Protectorate, it has not succeeded in
+acquiring any great influence among the natives, or in enlarging its
+boundaries. The Bishop, Monseigneur Tepaud Jansen, Bishop of Axieri, who
+resides at Papeete, is also the sole priest and teacher in the colony.
+This spiritual guide has every day to celebrate mass in his wretched
+little chapel of bamboo walls and palm thatch, and has never yet succeeded
+in getting the half-ruined church close by finished for his reception; the
+8000 francs per annum (L320) paid by Government as long as the church is
+being built seem rather to postpone than hasten its erection. Moreover,
+there is not as yet any public school in Papeete, a want which is the more
+sensibly felt and the more permanent in its effects, as the majority of
+the Protestant schools are closed, and consequently a large proportion of
+the rising generation[74] are growing up in utter ignorance. In four
+districts in the interior out of thirty-three, live two or three French
+missionaries who instruct the natives in French. There is neither lack of
+energy among these zealous labourers, nor of the requisite funds,[75] to
+extend the field of their labours, so that if the Catholic mission in
+Tahiti makes no progress, and after twenty years' exertion can only reckon
+100 neophytes, the explanation must be sought in the existence of
+conditions, which neither the self-denying zeal of Catholic missionaries
+nor material protection can affect.[76]
+
+While in the interior of the island Sunday is thus observed with much
+strictness, there is great indifference, if not worse, in its observance
+in the seaport; indeed, it is the French official who sets the example of
+disregarding it. For nowhere does one witness more utter shamelessness
+than at what is known as the Pre Catalan, a lawn-like meadow, which
+extends directly in front of the Governor's palace, and, in fact, is one
+of its dependencies. Here, in presence of the French gens d'armes and
+soldiers, under the very eyes of the Protectorate authorities, and in
+entire defiance of the native laws,[77] dances of the most dissolute kind
+are executed by half-drunk Tahitian girls. One must have seen the Upa-Upa
+danced by these lascivious Tahitians, with all the impassioned vehemence
+of a sensual nature, in order to comprehend the mingled shame and
+indignation with which it fills any but a French by-stander. Singularly
+enough, the Upa-Upa, or Hiva, has a marked resemblance to the well-known
+Can-can, as it is, or used formerly to be, danced in the Quartier Latin at
+the Chaumiere, by the students and grisettes, with the sole difference
+that in the Upa-Upa the grace of the Parisian dances is entirely lost
+sight of, so that there remains nothing but a series of obscene gestures,
+most unblushingly presented. The musicians sitting on the ground strike
+with the flat of the hand a little kettle-drum (_pehu_), and beat time as
+well with their feet. Suddenly, a dancer of either sex springs into the
+inclosure, goes through a number of extraordinary animated movements,
+which are the louder laughed at and applauded in proportion to their
+indecency, after which he or she mingles once more with the crowd,
+exhausted and breathless.
+
+The Tahiti women have almost invariably beautiful black hair, and
+singularly small hands and feet. Their figure is on the average that of
+the middle stature of European women. Their dress is simple, but very
+clean and neat. They wear a long white gown with plaits, which gives them
+somewhat the appearance of vestals, and wear a coronal of flowers on their
+head, or entwine the flaming blossoms of the _Hibiscus rosasinensis_ in
+their thick black tresses. The more coquettish also affect an exceedingly
+elegant head-dress (_rewarewa_), which they make of the young tender
+leaves of the cocoa-palm, the satin-paper-like epidermis being converted
+by the manipulation of their skilful hands into an exquisitely fine-wove,
+rustling tissue, which they arrange among their luxuriant locks with
+genuine idealistic grace.
+
+The men, like the women, are tall, slim, and well-proportioned. The face
+usually is far from ugly, and betokens no little intelligence; the lips
+are full, the complexion a yellowish-brown, but on the whole fairer than
+that of the New Zealanders. The occipital region of the head seems to be
+artificially flattened, the forehead well-formed, the chin and lower
+maxillary bones are broad. Some wear European clothing, others a wide
+piece of blue calico (_pareu_), wound round the loins and reaching to the
+knees.
+
+The dancing in the Pre Catalan continued from afternoon till far on in the
+night, although only a faint gleam of light shone on the green floor, so
+that the darkness threw a convenient veil over both dancers and
+spectators. Quite close to the crowd of pleasure-seeking natives was a
+group of natives of New Caledonia. These had been made prisoners of war
+during the recent campaign of the French on that island, and had been
+transported hither to undergo a term of _travaux forces_ on the public
+works. On the whole, however, they were kindly enough treated, and on
+Sundays were permitted to "dance," such as the performance was, in the
+presence of their custodian. On our presenting them with a few small
+silver coins they went through their most renowned national dances for us,
+which are much ruder and more natural than those of the Tahitians, but
+apparently are not of so frivolous a character as the Upa-Upa, and other
+similar cancanized contortions of the limbs as indulged at Tahiti. The New
+Caledonians arranged themselves with spears and sticks in a circle, rushed
+violently at each other, leaped impetuously about in a state of artificial
+excitement, uttering the most singular sounds and the most appalling
+yells, then dispersed and reunited repeatedly, the leader of the dance all
+the while muttering very fast, but in perfect time, some unintelligible
+words, apparently to fire their ardour by recalling to them the memory of
+some national victory. The obscene Tahitian dances on the Sundays in
+Government gardens had been resuscitated five months before, and for this
+reason Pre Catalan, the only public promenade in Tahiti, is avoided by the
+Europeans resident in Papeete. The Protestants feel themselves sorely
+aggrieved by having such a spectacle openly sanctioned on the Lord's Day
+by the French authorities, and a collection having been set on foot about
+the time of our visit for raising sufficient to maintain a permanent band
+of music, a number of Protestants and missionaries declined to subscribe,
+on the ground of disapproving of money being expended in promoting such
+amusements.
+
+Among the excursions made by the members of the Expedition, a double
+interest attached to that made to Point Venus. It was on this promontory
+that Captain Cook first made the astronomical observations by which he
+determined the position of the island. The ride thither lay through
+delicious groves of cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees, mingled here and
+there with citron and orange-trees, as also bananas and guavas. Near the
+Point lies the village of Matavai, inhabited by several white settlers,
+each in his little cottage with its blooming garden around it. The
+tree-like _Oleander_ and the beautiful red flower _Hibiscus rosasinensis_
+towered above in full bloom, the entire scene being almost sufficient to
+captivate a European. The native governor of the district is a pretty
+well-educated man, who has spent nine months in Paris, and on the occasion
+of the capture by the French of the fort of Fautaua had been rewarded for
+his not very patriotic services by the cross of the Legion of Honour,
+besides being appointed chief of the militia. His farm is very nicely
+managed, and his daughters, elegant, well-mannered brunettes, speak a
+little French, an accomplishment in which the Tahitian ladies,
+notwithstanding their intimate relations with the sons of "_la grande
+nation_," are usually entirely deficient. At Point Venus is a lighthouse,
+with an intermittent light, visible about 14 miles seaward, in charge of
+an aged French veteran (_invalide_). The tamarind tree is still pointed
+out, which Captain Cook planted close to the spot where he completed those
+renowned labours, which still single him out as the greatest of Pacific
+discoverers.
+
+With the exception of those to Point Venus on one side, and to the large
+villages of Faaa and Papeuriri in the opposite direction, there are no
+practicable roads on the island. On the whole, there are about 36 miles of
+road suitable for wheeled carriages,--all travels beyond must be performed
+on horseback, by which means the entire island can be traversed in a few
+days. One of the most agreeable excursions, and which well repays the
+trouble, is undoubtedly a drive to the beautifully situate hill-fort of
+Fautaua, renowned in the annals of the island. The first part of the road
+leads over unsightly fields of guava (_Psidium guava_), first imported
+from South America in 1815 by an American missionary, with the laudable
+object of increasing the number of useful plants upon the island, but
+which has since so entirely over-grown large tracts of land, that its
+systematic extirpation begins to be discussed. Wherever the guava takes
+root it destroys all other vegetation. It has already extended over the
+loveliest spots, where its seeds have been dropped in human or animal
+excrement. Its apple-shaped fruit, red-fleshed inside, is in the raw state
+anything but pleasant to the taste, and is not readily eaten even by the
+natives, but a sort of jelly prepared of it could be made an important
+article of export, as it is already along the west coast of South America.
+The fruit is also valuable for provender, as animals foddered with it
+speedily get quite fat, while its wood, growing with great rapidity, is in
+much request for fuel.
+
+After riding a few miles through these guava-fields, we were astonished at
+finding a sugar plantation close by the road, which here ran through a
+lovely little valley. This is the property of an Englishman named Johnson,
+who, once a whaler, and afterwards a sandal-wood trader, has resided for
+more than thirty years in Tahiti, and has married a native woman. Johnson,
+in partnership with a Frenchman named Le Rouge, had planted 23 acres of
+land with sugar-cane, and when we saw him in February, 1859, expected a
+crop of from 100 to 110 hogsheads of sugar. The whole property is a
+perfect model farm, and receives every encouragement and assistance from
+Government, with the view of extending sugar-planting.[78] Immediately
+adjoining the plantation, the river Fautaua flows past, here about five
+feet deep, and furnishing a most excellent bathing-place. Johnson, like
+many another, lamented the appalling rapidity with which the native
+population was falling off, which he ascribed to the daily increasing
+prevalence of the vices of drunkenness and debauchery. He related to us
+how many valleys, now lonely and abandoned, were pretty densely peopled
+only twenty years ago! Then the population was estimated at 15,000, now it
+is only 5000.[79]
+
+The aspect of the sugar plantation is remarkably fine, and an occasional
+glimpse of the surrounding hills, bathed in the sunlight, imparts a
+sublimity that at once arrests the attention, the crags rising in close
+proximity, and appearing much more precipitous and inaccessible than they
+are in reality. The Diadem (the name given to several peaks which have a
+striking resemblance to a crown) displays itself from this point in all
+its wondrous loveliness, above which tower lofty mountain-peaks, 6000 or
+7000 feet in height, which have never been trodden by the foot of the
+naturalist.
+
+Close behind the hospitable dwelling of Mr. Johnson begins the primitive
+forest, under the delightful cool shades of which one can ride almost to
+the goal of the excursion, surrounded on every side by luxuriant green
+canopies that seem to scale the very clouds, under whose domes play
+grateful currents of air.[80]
+
+The path, although always a steep ascent, was in very fair condition; only
+at the point where it was necessary to ford the river Fautaua, which every
+year swells into an angry torrent during the rainy season, did we find any
+serious impediment to our further advance. The bridge across the stream
+had been swept away, and there was nothing for it but to lead the horses
+through the water, an achievement of no little difficulty and waste of
+time, owing to the strength of the current and the terror and obstinacy of
+some of our horses.
+
+After a ride of several hours in a sort of green twilight, the forest
+began to open, and there before our astonished gaze was the most important
+waterfall on the island, imparting an inconceivable freshness and
+animation to the landscape around. The Fautaua makes at this point a leap
+of about 200 metres (650 feet), into a huge basin, which lies at the foot
+of a lofty precipice, 420 metres (1450 feet) above the level of the sea;
+the temperature of the water in the basin itself being about 70 deg. Fahr.
+
+The steep crags, which tower overhead on all sides, and like a gigantic
+wall impede the view of the peninsula of Taiarapu, which lies behind them,
+are as marvellous in the luxuriance of the vegetation that covers them, as
+they are strategically important by their impregnability, the French
+having only succeeded in gaining footing upon them by treachery, and not
+by fortune of war. Some chiefs favourable to the French had acted as
+guides, and had led them by secret and dangerous paths up to these
+heights, for which service they to this day receive an annual pension paid
+in gold out of the state treasury. Formerly the rough, steep, almost
+inaccessible precipices formed of themselves a natural fort, and by their
+peculiar form, their position, and their strength, might be called the key
+of the entire island. The French conquerors immediately converted this
+spot, 630 metres (2052 feet) above the level of the sea, into a small fort
+with the usual tricolor flag, and, on the limited flat surface at their
+disposal, on which alone it was possible to build, erected a barrack and a
+few huts, besides laying out a kitchen-garden, which supplies with fruit
+and vegetables the residents of this solitary but lovely abode.
+
+The officer on guard within the fort received us with that fascinating
+friendliness and _bonhommie_ characteristic of the French in all parts of
+the world, and which makes them everywhere such "jolly" companions. The
+provisions we had brought with us were speedily improved by the addition
+of everything that the garrison mess could set before us, and there was no
+lack even of delicacies, as they might be considered in these latitudes,
+for the little kitchen-garden contiguous furnished plenty of water-cresses
+and strawberries. The temperature was at this season singularly delicious
+and elastic, but in July, when the thermometer occasionally sinks to
+46-1/2 deg. Fahr., the little garrison suffers much from cold and inflammatory
+attacks.
+
+Another excursion, not less charming but far more arduous, is that to the
+Waiiria Lake, far in the interior of the island. This was achieved by Mr.
+Frauenfeld, one of the zoologists of the Expedition. From Papeuriri in the
+south of the island, which is easily reached in one day from Papeete by a
+road winding along the coast, the Waiiria valley leads in a S.S.E. to
+N.N.W. direction, up to the central peak, whence the deep valleys and
+water-courses radiate towards the coast like the spokes of a wheel. The
+valley is at first tolerably wide, but so densely covered with trees and
+shrubs, interlaced in wild confusion, that the horses had to be left
+behind at Papeuriri. A rather wide mountain-torrent rushes throughout its
+length, and, a little further on, when the valley contracts into a
+pathless defile, has not merely to be crossed so frequently as to baffle
+all count, but leaves the tourist to scramble up its rocky course by
+leaping from stone to stone. After four hours' toil the valley suddenly
+closes in, and it becomes necessary to scramble up an almost perpendicular
+precipice 1000 feet in height. It was a tight bit of work, struggling
+upwards under a tropical rain over the slippery moss-grown blocks, every
+cranny and projection thickly studded with creeping plants. The crest of
+the pass, from 60 to 80 feet wide, hemmed in by precipices impossible to
+scale, was fortified by the natives during the war; that is to say, a
+breastwork of stones was thrown up, thus converting the depression on the
+other side of the mountain, in which lies the lake, into an inaccessible
+lurking-place. Not far distant is the deep narrow defile of Ruotorea,
+which played so conspicuous a part in the older history of Tahiti, as it
+was customary to fling into it all prisoners of war. At length, about two
+P.M., the lake itself was reached, lying in a sort of mountain cauldron,
+the sides of which descend steeply, while two of the loftiest peaks, those
+of Tetuero and Anaori, rise sheer out of the lake to a height of 5000
+feet.[81] Except at the narrow strip of ground, on which M. Frauenfeld
+found himself standing, and which was nothing but a beach of small extent,
+there was no other spot within sight at which it would have been possible
+to land. The distance to the opposite shore, when visible, seems about
+half a mile. The whole basin, even where the enclosing rocks are steepest,
+indeed, almost perpendicular, and thence up to the summits of the
+loftiest peaks, is densely covered with trees, reeds, and creepers,
+especially _scitamineae_, the brilliant green hues of which are reflected
+in the mirror-like surface of the lake below. All the forests here are of
+wild plantain, and the sugar-cane is found growing wild in a variety of
+places. A few ducks, a swallow, and a couple of parrots were all that was
+seen of animal life. A strange silence brooded over the entire
+landscape,--not a leaf trembled, not a sound broke the solemn stillness,
+and a depressing feeling of loneliness and utter abandonment seized on the
+traveller. The spot for the night's encampment was selected close to a
+large stone, against which a sort of penthouse was erected of banana
+leaves, which promised welcome shelter during the night. The exceedingly
+unfavourable weather prevented an adequate investigation being made of the
+environs of the lake, and as the following morning was ushered in with, if
+anything, an accession of bad weather, the plan which had been projected
+of constructing a boat with which to explore the lake was abandoned, and
+the party set out on their return to Papeete.
+
+During our stay at Tahiti, a grand national festival took place at the
+little village of Faaa, about an hour's walk from Papeete. In fact, it has
+latterly become the custom, on every change of Governor, to have a feast
+of welcome in his honour in every district. On such occasions speeches are
+made, presents are prepared, dances are practised, and long tables,
+groaning under all sorts of food and drink, are set out in the open air
+for the invited guests. Governor Saisset, who had been seven months in
+office, and had already made the circuit of the island, visiting all the
+districts, was, however, not yet welcomed with the customary festivities
+of the inhabitants of Faaa. This solemnity accordingly passed off with all
+pomp on 22nd February. By eight A.M. some twenty cavaliers had assembled
+in front of the Government Palace, whence, with the Governor at their
+head, and accompanied by the native militia, also mounted, they took the
+road to Faaa. Only one lady, Madame de la Richerie, wife of the
+_Commissaire Imperial_, accompanied the cavalcade. On our arrival at Faaa
+we found the native females, attired in their gayest national dress,
+formed into line, and the men, partly clothed in the European manner,
+partly in the "_Pareu_," a broad scarf of printed muslin wound round the
+loins, shaking their variegated plumes, and carrying banners and flags of
+bark specially prepared for the feast, some Pandanus leaves being also
+handed to the guests.
+
+As soon as the Governor had taken his seat in the verandah of the large
+and elegant residence of the chieftain, or warden of the district (for in
+Tahiti every office, with all rights pertaining thereto, descends among
+the female members of the chief's family likewise),[82] a number of girls,
+dressed all in white and wearing elegant garlands of flowers, stepped
+forward and began to sing a national Tahitian hymn; after which the orator
+of the day, a handsome man, dressed partly in the European, partly in the
+native manner, wearing a black round felt hat and feathers, and a
+variegated bark shirt over a black coat(!) delivered a very pathetic
+address. His delivery and his gestures recalled strongly to mind the New
+Zealand orators, but, unlike the latter, he was considerate enough not to
+tax unduly the patience of his foreign guests, to whom not one word of his
+very moving discourse was intelligible. This preliminary over, a number of
+girls presented themselves one after the other to the Governor, and in
+token of allegiance presented their garlands and the nicely prepared upper
+robe of bast. In this manner about 100 crowns and bast-mantilles were
+delivered, the most elegant of which the Governor kindly presented to the
+members of our Expedition.
+
+In the reception-court a perfect mountain of bananas had been piled up,
+together with an immense heap of cocoa-nuts; these were also presented to
+the Governor and his suite, with the remark that every inhabitant of the
+district had contributed his mite to the festival, and bade the foreign
+guests a cordial welcome. "We may stay days, weeks, ay! months," exclaimed
+the orator, "and every house and all that was in it will be placed at our
+disposal; every one will take a pleasure in doing our bidding and
+forestalling all our wishes!"
+
+After this hearty, idyllic ceremonial, the inhabitants of Punatana, an
+adjoining district, came up, amid a flourish of drums and trumpets, and
+arranged themselves on the wide road right in front of the chieftainess of
+Faaa, in consequence of Maheanu, their chieftainess, a zealous Protestant,
+not permitting on her grounds the execution of any improper dances, or the
+singing of broad songs. In fact, neither the Upa-Upa nor any other of the
+numerous Tahitian "_Cancans a la Chicard_" were suffered to be danced; the
+consequence of which was that they danced it all the more eagerly on the
+road. Six drummers, each with his little kettle-drum, squatted
+cross-legged on the floor, the right hand being employed to strike the
+instrument. To this primitive music, enlivened at times by a shrill cry,
+both men and girls now began to go through the most indecent gestures,
+accompanied by leaping on and toying with their partners till they had
+worked themselves up to such an artificial frenzy of excitement, that each
+couple at last retired exhausted and bathed in perspiration, under a
+flourish of drums and a loud shriek from the orchestra.
+
+The French Governor, the representative of European decorum, was one of
+the most animated of the spectators, and gave full swing to the
+recklessness of the Tahitians, who are accustomed to push the law of
+hospitality to the extent of prostituting their daughters, remarking, with
+much _naivete_, that the natives would take it exceedingly ill were any
+one to refuse to take part in certain old habits and customs, or were to
+declare themselves openly opposed to their continuance!
+
+At the close of the fete the Governor ordered some French wines, "the
+cocoa milk of the Europeans," to be set before the inhabitants of Faaa. A
+_dejeuner a la fourchette_ was laid out under tents, where, at twenty long
+tables covered in the European manner, the most distinguished personages
+took their seats. Every family had contributed something, the whole having
+the appearance of a regular pic-nic.
+
+On each table were displayed flowers, bananas, bread-fruit, and other
+delicious products of the vegetable world. The European guests were seated
+at a large table erected at the upper end of an alley of trees. The
+chieftainess and her husband sat beside the Governor. Next in order was
+the Government interpreter, a Mr. Darling, the son of one of the oldest
+English missionaries sent out to Tahiti, on whom devolved the
+interpretation into Tahitian or French, as the case might be, of the
+various speeches and toasts.
+
+The dinner-service, at our table at least, was entirely in the European
+manner, which seemed to me a pity; a meal without knives or forks, as is
+the custom among the natives, would have been infinitely more interesting
+and peculiar. The husband gave the health of the ruler of France,
+and--evidently in honour of the guests from the banks of the Danube--that
+of the Emperor of Austria! Immediately thereafter the Governor rose
+suddenly and left the table, with the intention, it would seem, of
+escaping some untimeous speeches of the natives. The company presently
+broke up, and while a few of the guests returned straight to the port, the
+majority, the French Governor himself mingling with the excited populace,
+did not reach Papeete till far in the night.
+
+The fete at Faaa was followed, a few days later, 24th February, by a
+dashing ball at the Governor's. The _Pre Catalan_ was gaily festooned with
+coloured lamps, and various devices for illuminating the festivities. The
+Tahitians, accustomed to dance only in the darkness of night, or at most
+under the light of a few paltry suet candles, flocked hither in crowds to
+revel in the brilliant light, and witness the Europeans dance the
+"_Upa-Upa_" after their own fashion. Within the Palace was assembled all
+that was ultra-fashionable in Tahitian society. All the authorities and
+notabilities of the country were present. More than 200 persons thronged
+the apartment, where, out of courtesy to our host, the band of our frigate
+played a succession of polkas, waltzes, and quadrilles. Queen Pomare,
+accompanied by her consort and several princes and princesses of her
+house, was also present. The Governor received her at the threshold of the
+apartment, offered her his arm, and escorted her to seats already reserved
+for the royal family. Pomare is now almost fifty years of age, stout and
+under the middle size, with a full inexpressive countenance, and a
+waddling gait. Her toilette was simple but thoroughly European. She wore a
+white ball-dress of the latest French _mode_, and flowers in her hair. In
+her hands she also carried a gigantic bouquet. Her youngest son, a boy of
+twelve years, named after Prince de Joinville, showed spirit and
+vivacity; the heir to the throne seemed feeble, sickly, and too soon
+matured.
+
+This happened to be the first presentation of the members of the
+Expedition to the Queen--the first opportunity they had had of conversing
+with her. Hitherto there had been apparent on the part of the French
+authorities a reluctance to bring about a meeting, which the Queen might
+possibly regard as a triumph. In fact, Queen Pomare was not at liberty to
+receive any one in her house, except members of her family, without first
+obtaining the permission of the French authorities. Two incidents, which
+had occurred to arouse the French authorities shortly before our arrival,
+had still further contributed to sharpen the Queen's watchfulness, and to
+limit her receptions to her own nearest relatives. The poor woman had,
+after much pressure, and without communicating with M. Saisset, signed in
+his absence a document which fairly ran counter to a previous ordinance on
+the same subject. A territorial squabble, which had long before been
+decided by law, had, through the exertions of one of the parties
+interested, been once more brought up for trial, before the native bench,
+as it was thought that the result of the opinion of several judges might
+be productive of some more favourable result. The Governor refused his
+assent to this proceeding. The Queen, notwithstanding, under bad advice,
+issued a written mandate to the native Court to try the case over again.
+As the Court was being assembled, however, it was dismissed by the
+Governor, the chief judge banished to an adjoining island, and the Queen
+compelled herself to abrogate the ordinance. A somewhat similar affair had
+occurred a few weeks before at the village of Papaoa, near which Queen
+Pomare possesses a country-house, in which some of the royal family were
+implicated. Some native feasts, which in Tahiti are always accompanied
+with the wildest Bacchanalian license, had excited the crowd to an unusual
+degree. A few of the Tahitian nationality-mongers drank death to the
+whites, and pretty openly declared their hostility to a foreign yoke. The
+excess of a couple of drunken patriots was magnified by the excited fancy
+of the French officers into the dimensions of a political _emeute_, and
+seemed to present the long-coveted opportunity of showing their authority,
+and of acquiring with little trouble the credit of having nipped in the
+bud a formidable insurrection. As soon as the news of these seditious
+speeches and exclamations reached head-quarters, the Governor marched in
+the night with 150 well-armed soldiers to Papaoa, distant about an hour's
+march from the capital. Pomare and her family were just assembled to
+evening prayers, when the Governor made his appearance, and ordered her
+forthwith to accompany him to Papeete. An Englishman resident in the
+harbour was ordered to convey the Queen to her town residence in his small
+one-horse waggon. Her two sons, however, were escorted to Papeete as
+prisoners on foot, and their hands bound behind their backs, their ears
+saluted by the oft-repeated threat of the soldiers that their lives should
+answer for any intentional injury which the Europeans might sustain at
+the hands of the natives. As the procession approached the harbour, the
+Queen bent forward to her driver, and asked him in a low voice whether it
+was intended to carry her to the _Carabus_.[83] The driver turned off
+towards her own residence. As he turned the corner, the Queen suddenly
+started forwards, and seizing the reins from the driver with both hands,
+stopped the horse, and looked whether her two sons were by her side. She
+feared they would be taken to the prison, but they were likewise conducted
+to her house. However, Queen Pomare and all her family and attendants were
+cautioned not to leave Papeete till the matter had been thoroughly
+inquired into. An intimation was even conveyed to the Protestant
+missionary Mr. Howe that he must discontinue his visits to the Queen till
+further orders.
+
+Under these circumstances it is more than probable that the persecuted
+Queen only made her appearance at the ball in deference to the Governor's
+commands, and hence possibly she confined her conversation with the
+strangers to the most common-place topics. The Queen was described to us
+as a clever, well-educated woman, who spoke English with considerable
+fluency, as also a little French, and in public affairs displayed a
+surprising degree of shrewdness and tact. With the French authorities she
+conversed exclusively in Tahitian. She appears much to dislike the
+intervention of an interpreter or secretary, preferring greatly to place
+herself directly in communication with the official concerned, as an
+autograph letter exhibits, which she addressed to the Treasurer
+Receiver-general, requesting him to send her a carriage in which to drive
+on business from her estate at Papaoa to Papeete.[84]
+
+It is very surprising to find in the course of conversation with natives
+of every grade, that notwithstanding the French Protectorate has now
+lasted upwards of twenty years, the French language has hardly made the
+slightest advance. We met but two natives who could speak French. The
+knowledge of English even is confined to the few individuals who live
+entirely on the coast, and come frequently into contact with foreigners. A
+law was in contemplation, however, at the period of our visit, by the
+provisions of which no native after the lapse of 10 years, that is to say,
+by 1869, would be eligible for any Government employ, not even that of a
+_murtoi_ (police sergeant, literally "one who listens secretly to the
+words of the people"[85]), unless he has a thorough acquaintance with
+French.
+
+On the whole, the Government of the Second of December appears to regard
+Tahiti simply as a military outpost and naval station, and to attach
+little value to the evident future commercial importance of the island.
+If, however, there are behind this ostensible indifference no secret
+views, or political _arriere-pensees_ involved, it must undoubtedly be
+pronounced most unjust and unwise. True, Tahiti possesses but a small
+proportion of surface suitable for cultivation; true, with the exception
+of oranges,[86] there is hardly any natural product exported,[87] the
+produce of the island barely sufficing to support its own population; but,
+apart from its extremely favourable geographical position, and the
+vegetable profusion of this and the adjoining islands, Tahiti might, under
+able administration, be made a sort of general emporium for the
+interchange of the products of Polynesia against the fabrics of Europe.
+
+The total superficial area of Tahiti amounts to 104,215 hectares, 79,485
+of which form Tahiti proper and the isthmus of Taravao, while the
+peninsula of Taiarapu comprises the remaining 24,730. The greater portion
+of this surface is occupied by mountains, only a very small proportion
+being devoted to tillage. At the mouths of several of the rivers are small
+strips of arable land, of which the plains of Taunoa (near Papeete), Point
+Venus, Pusenaura, Papara, Papeuriri, and Papeari, as also the delta of the
+river Fautaua, on the peninsula of Taiarapu, are the most important.
+
+All these level grounds put together do not amount to more than from 2200
+to 2500 hectares, while the swampy state of much of even this small area
+renders many portions fit only for the cultivation of taro and rice.[88]
+
+The climate of Tahiti is uncommonly salubrious and delightful; the
+temperature is tolerably uniform, and is sensibly moderated by the
+alternate land and sea-breezes. Only about mid-day, when there usually
+sets in that profound calm, which the French, in their elegant
+epigrammatic way, style _l'immobilite des feuilles_, the heat becomes
+absolutely oppressive, but the mornings and evenings are cool, and the air
+very refreshing. The average maximum temperature during the rainy season
+is 84 deg.4 Fahr., the average minimum 74 deg.6 Fahr. Only immediately prior to
+the outbreak of a storm does the fluctuation of the thermometer become
+strongly marked. In the dry season the temperature averages 80 deg.6 Fahr.
+during the day, and 68 deg. Fahr. during the night. When, however, as
+occasionally happens, the temperature at Papeete sinks to 57 deg.2 Fahr. and
+at Fautaua to 46 deg.4 Fahr., or even lower, even the Europeans are compelled
+to adopt certain precautions against taking cold, which the natives for
+the most part disregard, and are accordingly liable to acute inflammatory
+disorders.
+
+With such a temperature, combined with the fertility insured by the
+volcanic tufa soil, it is perfectly evident that the majority of the
+tropical and sub-tropical nut-bearing and other alimentary plants might be
+extensively grown upon the island without much difficulty. The sugar-cane,
+the coffee-tree, the cotton-shrub, the vanilla, the cocoa-tree, the indigo
+plant, the sorgho[89], rice, maize, &c., flourish here in a marked degree,
+and their persistent cultivation would realize a splendid profit for the
+landowner.
+
+Of fruits there are bananas, bread-fruits, mangoes, ananas (pine-apples),
+papayas (carica papayi), pandanus fruit, cocoa-nuts, oranges, lemons,
+anonas (a kind of custard apple), guavas, &c. The chief sustenance of the
+natives consists of the following:--
+
+I. The fei, or wild plantain (_Musa Fei_, or _Musa Rubra_), of which there
+are five varieties. It is first encountered at an elevation of from 600 to
+800 feet above the sea, grows most luxuriantly between the zones of 1000
+and 1500 feet, is of a very peculiar saffron-yellow colour, and is usually
+either roasted or boiled.
+
+II. The haari, or cocoa-palm (_Cocos nucifera_), whose trunk, bark,
+leaves, and fruit are pressed into their service by the natives. The
+fruit, however, is the most important, as it is used as meat for man and
+beast, as well as a beverage, and to obtain oil from it. Mixed with fine
+sandal-wood shavings and other aromatic substances, the oily liquid
+pressed out from the cocoa-nut is used by the Tahiti women as a
+much-prized cosmetic (_monoi_), with which to lubricate their long
+beautiful black hair. Here, as among the other South Sea islands, the
+cocoa-palm begins to bear after the first seven or eight years only, after
+which, however, it becomes so abundant that the fruit of each tree is
+valued at five francs annually. It takes 20 to 25 cocoa-nuts to make a
+gallon of oil.[90]
+
+III. The uru (also called _Maiore_), or bread-fruit tree (_Artocarpus
+incisa_), is, after the cocoa-palm, the most useful tree on the island.
+The fruit, baked in a canak (or native) oven, (_vide ante_, p. 162),
+between two heated stones, is the substitute for bread to the Tahitians.
+At the period of the war, or in consequence of a short crop, the natives,
+like the New Zealanders and the aborigines of the Caroline Archipelago,
+buried the fruit of the uru in the earth, and ate it in the putrefied
+state. The bread-tree is productive thrice in the year. The first crop,
+the best and largest, ripens in March, the second in July, the third,
+Manavahoi, at the end of November. The fruit varies from eight to twelve
+pounds in weight.
+
+IV. The fara, or _pandanus_, the fruit of which is treated in the same
+manner as that of the uru, while the leaves serve as a thatch for the
+bamboo-cane huts of the aborigines. Of the red seeds of the _pandanus
+odoratissimus_, the ornament-loving Tahitian women prepare exceedingly
+fine coronals and necklaces. The leaves of another species, called iri by
+the natives, are used for enveloping tobacco, and making cigarettes, as
+also in the manufacture of house mats, and mats on which to sleep.
+
+V. The taro (_Caladium esculentum_), a sort of tuber, which at certain
+seasons supplies any deficiency in the bread-fruit, and is very carefully
+cultivated by the natives. Of this plant there are in Tahiti thirteen
+varieties.
+
+VI. Pia (_Tacca pinnatifida_), a sort of tuber resembling the taro, the
+mealy substance of which is chiefly used as nutriment for children and
+convalescent persons, and which in commerce is erroneously confounded
+with arrow-root, the latter being chiefly procured from the Antilles and
+India, more especially from _Marantha Indica_ and _Marantha arundinacea_.
+The pia is also much used in Tahitian households in the preparation of
+small sweet cakes (_Poe-pia_), and is a not unpalatable substitute for
+wheaten flour.
+
+VII. Hoi, or yams (_Dioscorea alata_), of which useful tuber a variety of
+species are extensively used on the island.
+
+VIII. Umara, or sweet potato (_Convolvulus Batata_), preferred by the
+natives to the European potato, and widely cultivated, though it has
+somewhat degenerated in Tahiti.
+
+IX. Fare-rupe (_Pteris esculentum_), a kind of fern, the root of which was
+in former times much used for food here, as also in New Zealand.
+
+There still remain to be noticed two plants of much interest, from the
+roots of which the Tahitians, prior to the arrival of the Europeans,
+obtained strong intoxicating beverages.[91] These are the ti-plant
+(_Cordyline Australis_) and the kawa, or ava (_Piper methysticum_), of
+which latter fourteen varieties are known to the natives.
+
+The cultivation of this species of pepper is at present prohibited in
+Tahiti, and kawa-drinking has accordingly fallen into entire disuse. Only
+on the peninsula are a few aged Tahitians to be found, who appear
+obstinately opposed to the use of our alcoholized liquors, who on special
+festivities will face every privation for the luxury of boozing over their
+kawa, for which they sometimes pay five francs for a small piece.
+
+Formerly the process of chewing the kawa was performed by the young girls,
+and then only by those who had the finest teeth. Before beginning this
+delicate task, they were required carefully to rinse their mouths and
+purify their hands, for which purpose they made use of special vessels.
+When the roots had been slowly and equally chewed, and had been changed
+into little cones held together by saliva, they were mingled with water in
+a large wooden vessel (_Umeli_), standing upon a tripod, and gently
+squeezed by hand. In many of the islands this process of dilution is
+performed by mixing cocoa-nut juice instead of the customary water. The
+kawa is a very fluid substance, not very inviting in appearance at any
+time, but still less so when one has witnessed the mode of preparing it.
+Usually it is of the colour of _cafe au lait_; but occasionally, when some
+of the leaves of the plant have been mixed with the root, the beverage
+assumes a greenish tinge, something like wormwood, although to the palate
+it has nothing in common with that substance.
+
+Kawa is drunk out of the half of the cocoa-nut shell, which in the hands
+of a native skilled in carving becomes a really elegant beaker. Only
+families of high birth, the Arii and Raatira,[92] who are exempted from
+toil, are however able to indulge in the luxury of a daily draught of
+kawa. The symptoms of intoxication are very similar to those of opium. In
+the kawa-drinker, like the opium-eater or Samshoo smoker, there is a
+nervous tremulousness perceptible, followed by utter exhaustion, and an
+overpowering necessity for sleep. After its effects have passed off, there
+is a sensation of weariness in the limbs, to remove which the regular
+kawa-drinkers are accustomed to plunge into the cold waters of the nearest
+mountain stream. A very peculiar cuticular disease, the infallible result
+of the daily use of this beverage, is called by the natives _Arewarewa_.
+
+A German chemist, M. Noellenberger, who was resident at Papeete during our
+visit to the Archipelego, had succeeded in September, 1858, in
+crystallizing the essential principle of the kawa root, which he called
+Kawain, the powers and properties of which he was about to investigate
+more minutely. As we have since then been favoured with a copy of the very
+valuable work of Mr. G. Cuzent upon Tahiti, already alluded to, we learn
+therein that that zealous naturalist had already, in 1857, found in the
+kawa root an organic base, which he termed Kawahine, and which is fully
+described in his interesting Monography (p. 99).
+
+Owing to kawa-drinking having been prohibited in Tahiti, chiefly through
+the influence of the missionaries, the use of brandy and other spirituous
+liquors is beginning to exercise a not less baneful influence in that
+island upon the physical and intellectual powers.
+
+In agriculture, as in commerce, the effect of the French Protectorate has
+been visibly to slacken the rate of progress. The number of ships that
+visit the island does not exceed 60 to 80 annually, representing an
+interchange of merchandise to the value of about L64,000 per annum, of
+which about five-eighths, or L40,000, may be estimated as the amount
+exported.[93] What is most surprising, is the small number of whalers who
+visit the island for provisions and repairs. In 1836, the total number was
+fifty-two; at present not more than five or six in the year enter the
+harbour of Papeete. In the official reports this falling off is ascribed
+to the fish having forsaken these regions, while the stagnation of trade
+is generally ascribed to the reduction of the French garrison (!) in
+Tahiti, and the rise of late years of the Sandwich Islands and California.
+But the _true_ cause of the decay is to be sought for in a very different
+direction. It lies chiefly in a very defective system of administration,
+which is constantly being transferred from one hand to the other, having
+at its head to-day a ship-captain, and to-morrow possibly an officer of
+gensdarmes or an engineer. A letter[94] addressed to the Emperor Louis
+Napoleon by an English merchant long resident at Tahiti, unsparingly
+unveils the present disorders of Tahiti with respect to rights of
+property, administration of justice, legislation, and social state, and
+draws a shocking picture of the actual state of the island, once in such
+high estimation for the felicity of its inhabitants.
+
+On the other hand, the very benefits the mother country is supposed to
+derive from its Protectorate are at least problematical. While the
+establishment of French stations in Oceania has required about L240,000,
+the annual cost of keeping them on foot has never cost less than L100,000,
+and of this the Protectorate of Tahiti figures for from L24,000 to
+L28,000.[95] This by no means trifling sum is not however employed in
+promoting commerce or advancing trading interests; for not more than two
+or three ships in the year come direct to Tahiti from France, while the
+majority of the fabrics used there are English, which are imported from
+Valparaiso, the only port with which Papeete has regular communication.
+
+The military colony of Taiohai on the island of Nukahiwa, one of the
+Marquesas, has been entirely abandoned since 1st January, 1859, on account
+of the too great cost of keeping it up, although Ute-Moana, the king of
+the Marquesas, and the chiefs of the island of Nukahiwa, were desirous of
+retaining the French Protectorate, and had drawn up a formal address of
+submission, while, on the other hand, New Caledonia (Dum'mbia) can only be
+kept up at very considerable cost.
+
+Lately great reforms have been everywhere inaugurated, in order to
+diminish the heavy administrative expense hitherto incurred. The French
+colonies of eastern and western Oceania are to be provided with entirely
+independent administrations. The Governor of the French establishments in
+Oceania Oriental is to reside in Papeete, while his colleague of Oceania
+Occidental is to have his seat of Government at Port de France in New
+Caledonia. This subdivision, however, must add materially to the cost of
+maintenance, while it is difficult to see how it can augment the prospects
+of any increase of revenue.
+
+The French, in a word, have no success in their attempts anywhere at
+colonization; they are not practical colonists. The absence of this
+faculty, if one may call it so, is doubly apparent in the Southern
+hemisphere, where they are surrounded on all hands by English colonies.
+True it is, the English also have usually acquired by the strong hand
+their possessions in Oceania, in Australia, in Asia, &c., and from the
+stand-point of humanity it is impossible always to defend the means by
+which they have made themselves masters of the fairest and most fertile
+countries on the globe. But what have been the results directly springing
+from these high-handed acts, these political _faits accomplis_? England
+has thrown open to the unrestricted enterprise of all trading and
+seafaring nations those islands and continents so highly favoured by
+nature, with their feckless fast-disappearing aboriginal races; she has
+striven, by giving free institutions, to attract diligent colonists, to
+develope the natural wealth of these countries by means of scientific
+exploration, for the benefit of all; she has wafted to the remotest
+corners of the earth the seeds of Christian civilization, and by her
+energy, her capacity for labour, and her earnestness of purpose, has
+impressed all, even the most savage races, with a feeling of envy and
+astonishment at the intellectual superiority, the power, and the greatness
+of the white man!
+
+Under the influence of liberal but more morally stringent laws, Tahiti
+might speedily be raised to the position of a great emporium of the
+Southern seas, the Singapore of Oceania. Under the French Protectorate, on
+the contrary, the island, with its population long since renowned for
+indolence and sensuality, has become, in fact, what a French captain once
+jocularly termed it, "La Nouvelle Cythere!"
+
+Although the Society Islands are by no means a French penal settlement
+(the climate being possibly _too healthy_), there are, nevertheless, both
+at Tahiti and Nukahiwa, a few men, rather politically discontented than
+downright dangerous, whom a merciful interpretation of French martial law
+has exempted from banishment to Cayenne, (that name of terror![96]) and
+whom we might almost say that a beneficent destiny has transported to the
+shores of the South Sea. One of these political offenders, named
+Longomasino, has to thank the visit of the Austrian frigate to Papeete for
+his restoration to liberty. He had been a journalist at Toulouse in 1851,
+and maintained a zealous correspondence with some of the most intimate
+hangers-on upon Louis Napoleon, till the _coup d'etat_ revealed the French
+ruler's projects, and Longomasino joined the camp of the opponents of the
+new empire. His contumacious agitation against the new order of things led
+to his imprisonment and ultimate banishment. He was first transported to
+Nukahiwa, one of the Marquesas Islands, and afterwards received permission
+to settle at Papeete in Tahiti. Starting as a farrier, then an advocate,
+and finally a tavern-keeper, he was unable in any of these capacities to
+earn a subsistence for himself and his numerous family; the less so, that
+political intrigues deprived him of the right to practise at the bar, and
+this compelled him to have recourse to a business for which he had neither
+taste nor turn. If we understood matters aright, Longomasino, in the
+course of his juridical labours, had been able to do many a good turn to
+the Catholic bishop of Tahiti in his dispute with the French
+administration, and it was therefore less sympathy with the unfortunate
+political convict than the desire to play an adversary a trick by
+depriving him of an able adherent, which induced the Governor to ask our
+Commodore permission to give a free passage to Longomasino, who had been
+condemned to transportation for life. The request was willingly granted,
+and on the eve of our sailing Longomasino came on board the frigate, while
+his wife and family were to follow by a merchant-ship. The unhappy man,
+who had not words enough wherewith to express his gratitude for the
+friendly reception he experienced, still further gained the sympathies of
+all on board, with his melancholy fate, by his manly reticence on the
+subject of the injustice he had sustained.[97]
+
+Another convict, who had excited universal attention at Papeete, was M.
+Belmare, a well-educated young man, who in 1850 avowed he had shot at
+Louis Napoleon while at the Tuileries, and, in consequence, been
+transported to Tahiti. The fact that Belmare has since then been taken
+into the employ of the treasury at Papeete, where he receives a salary of
+L100 per annum, gave colour to the most whimsical reports as to the
+clemency displayed by the French Government in this case; yet we
+repeatedly heard the opinion expressed that Belmare was solely put forward
+as a tool for carrying out--which was to be used as a blind by giving the
+Government of Louis Napoleon opportunity for new stretches of arbitrary
+power. Whether, however, a residence at Tahiti, even with a handsome
+salary, be sufficient recompence for such services, M. Belmare alone is in
+a position to say.
+
+A succession of bad weather, such as so frequently occurs in the tropics,
+delayed our departure for several days. Now it was a heavy gale,
+commencing in the north and gradually veering round to W. and S.W.; now it
+was a series of calms, while the surf swept in unbroken masses on the
+beach, and so heavily, that it seemed the height of imprudence to take the
+frigate out through the narrow channel which constitutes the mouth of the
+harbour of Papeete, and is nothing but a cleft in the coral walls which
+surround Tahiti, and protect it from the ocean swell.
+
+At length, on 28th February, at day-break, we got under weigh. One of our
+own boats, as also a boat from the French steamer _Milan_, which was
+courteously placed at our disposal, towed the _Novara_ outside the reef,
+and materially aided the efforts of our men, a barely perceptible catspaw
+of wind just filling the sails. Piloted by a native lootse, we steered out
+so close to the projecting coral reefs, that the frigate all but touched
+them.
+
+We now had a parting view of Tahiti and the little island of Motu-Uta,
+where stood our improvised observatory, and where so many sleepless nights
+had been passed in observations for the purpose of defining astronomically
+the exact position of the island.
+
+We found the breeze freshened once we were outside the reef, and steered
+northwards, beautiful Tahiti, with the imposing and irregular outline of
+its hills, and the richness and variety of its vegetation, recalling, in
+some aspects, the glowing loveliness of the tropics, in others, the still
+sublimity of some of our Alpine landscapes, till it lay behind us like a
+shadowy vision of dream-land.
+
+Almost simultaneously with the departure of the _Novara_, the American
+whaler _Emily Morgan_, Captain Chase, stood out from the harbour of
+Papeete. This vessel had been whaling in the southern seas during five
+years, without any adequate return for her perseverant exertions. Her
+entire take was as yet only four barrels of train oil!! She was now making
+for the Sandwich Islands, and thence home to Boston. Latterly, the North
+American whalers have formed themselves into partnership, so as to divide
+profit and loss. If his companions had encountered no better fortune than
+Captain Chase, they might safely aver they had worked five years for
+nothing. The crew of the _Emily Morgan_, who were as usual almost entirely
+dependent for their remuneration on their tenth share of the oil, had
+begun to despair, and six of their number deserted from the ship, to stay
+behind at Tahiti. Throughout the voyage, Captain Chase had had his wife
+with him, a spirited energetic American woman, who on occasions could take
+her trick at the helm, or even direct the ship's man[oe]uvres. So
+completely had she fallen into the ways on board ship, that even in
+ordinary conversation she frequently let slip a few sea-phrases, and
+recounted, with much pride, how, when the boats had been away in pursuit,
+she had kept her watch like a regular officer.
+
+On 8th March, Shrove Tuesday was celebrated on board. Several sailors had
+disguised themselves as Invalids, as Tahitians, as Nicobarians, &c., and
+played off all manner of pranks. Dolce, our cook, the merry-andrew of the
+vessel, figured as a troubadour, in which capacity he sang several
+heart-thrilling melodies. In the afternoon the band played on deck, and
+in the evening the jolly tars, to their great gratification, received each
+a double allowance of grog.
+
+It was our Commodore's intention to cross the shorter diameter of the
+almost elliptical curve of equal magnetic declination, which occurs in
+this vicinity, with the view, if possible, of ascertaining by observation
+by what law the "local variation" of the needle is diminishing within the
+curve of 5 deg., the latest indicated in the most recent magnetic charts.
+
+This curve of 5 deg. easterly magnetic declination lies, according to F.
+Evans,[98] between the parallels of 5 deg. 30' N. and 13 deg. S. lat., and 120 deg. W.
+and 134 deg. 30' W., north-eastward from the Marquesas Islands.
+
+The magnetic needle, as is well known, does not point to the geographical
+poles, but is deflected from the due north and south meridian, in a
+direction eastward or westward according to locality, at an angle which,
+in the measure of the easterly or westerly magnetic variation of the
+plane, is called eastern or western declination or variation, and which
+not only gradually alters at every place with the lapse of time, but also
+is universally found to assume different values at different places, so
+that in certain lines, known as lines of equal declination, the variation
+remains the same for all places under that line during a certain given
+period.
+
+As the compass is the sole reliable guide of the seaman while traversing
+the ocean, and it is of the utmost importance to investigate and
+accurately lay down the ship's course for the port which is her object to
+make, it appears necessary to explain to the uninitiated how the local
+variation of the magnetic needle is determined, as thereby one can readily
+find the precise angle at which the magnetic meridian of any place is
+deflected from the true meridian.
+
+The determination of this divergence is effected by means of observations
+of the sun, by the aid of which one can calculate at any moment its actual
+bearings, as seen from the deck of the ship, and this, compared with the
+true position of the sun, gives the amount of variation.
+
+This apparently simple method of determination encounters in practice,
+owing to certain local influences, a variety of obstacles, for it is
+executed on board of a ship, which frequently contains within itself, at a
+greater or less distance from the binnacle, large superficies of iron,
+operating less or more prejudicially upon the needle, by deflecting it
+from the direction which it would actually have but for these masses of
+iron. Hence the variation is not even the same in all parts of the ship,
+nor does it follow the same direction, but varies according to certain
+laws, founded upon the intensity and direction of the magnetic attraction
+of the earth. It is therefore necessary to make allowance for these local
+deflections of the needle, in order to find the true variation of the
+needle.
+
+So far as regards the last-named, many thousand observations, both by land
+and sea, have resulted in furnishing us with a rule for empirically
+finding the amount of variation, for short periods at least, according to
+which the magnetic needle is found to vary from year to year at every spot
+along certain given lines, which it has been found possible to delineate
+upon the charts; thus showing at a glance the amount of variation to be
+allowed for at any given spot. As this is sufficient for all practical
+purposes of navigation, the seaman is, in most cases, relieved of the
+necessity of making for himself these observations and calculations, if
+only he can ascertain with anything like accuracy the position of his ship
+on the earth's surface, and has determined the amount of local variation
+on board.
+
+These iso-magnetic lines are, however, susceptible of great improvement,
+and if they are ever to become practically and universally useful,
+repeated observations must not be neglected by such navigators as have the
+means and the requisite scientific knowledge to pursue such investigation.
+
+On board the _Novara_ not a single sunshiny day was suffered to pass
+without the variation being frequently determined, or such observations
+repeated as related to the determination of local attraction on board.
+
+Under such circumstances, an unusual value attached to our ascertaining
+and following up so far as practicable the decrease in declination of the
+magnetic needle till it reached the zero point assigned to it, and
+comparing our own observations with the amounts stated on the charts.
+
+It was, however, at least as regarded nautical matters, of by no means
+special importance, that we should reach the very point of minimum
+declination,--it sufficed to ascertain that the observed diminution, as
+marked upon the charts, corresponded with our observations, which proved,
+in fact, to be the case.
+
+This confirmation proved the more satisfactory, that when we reached the
+N.E. side of the Paomotu group (also called Pakomotu, lying between
+13 deg.-22 deg. S., and 135 deg.-150 deg. W.) we found a fresh north-easter blowing, a
+phenomenon which during the fine season is due to the high temperature of
+these islands, and of course interposed a serious and persistent obstacle
+to our intended N.E. course.
+
+Another impediment to our attempt to get nearer to the zero point of
+minimum declination presented itself in the far from healthy state of the
+ship's crew. A peculiar endemic colic,[99] called by the French at Tahiti
+_colique seche_, or _colique vegetale_ (dry or vegetable colic), was
+rapidly extending among the men, and had already carried off one victim, a
+sailor, who died after a short illness on the morning of the 9th March,
+and was committed to the deep the same day with the customary solemnities.
+
+By 17th March, in 15 deg. 52' S., and 137 deg. 23' W., the declination of the
+magnetic needle had diminished to 5-1/2 deg. E., and thus far agreed pretty
+accurately with that indicated by the charts; it is not, however, likely
+that it actually falls to a zero point, but rather diminishes gradually
+as the central point is approached, which would hardly be the case if the
+declination actually fell to zero.
+
+By 25th March we found ourselves about the latitude of Pitcairn Island,
+from which we were barely one hundred miles distant. This island, so
+singular alike by its physical features and its remarkable history as the
+retreat of the surviving mutineers of the _Bounty_ with their families,
+has latterly had its interesting population removed to Norfolk Island,
+where there was room for the simple God-fearing community to increase its
+numbers without the risk of an excess of population over the resources of
+the soil, as there appeared reason to apprehend had they been left on
+Pitcairn Island.
+
+The story of the mutiny itself, the escape and subsequent career of
+Captain and Admiral Bligh, the extraordinary change that came over Adams
+when, ere ten years had passed, he found himself the sole survivor of the
+mutineers, all but one of whom died a violent death, and the hardly less
+marvellous manner in which this primitive community was discovered, after
+the lapse of nearly thirty years, are themes that need no recapitulation
+here. Much less known however is their subsequent, hardly less singular,
+destiny, and it will not, therefore, be out of place if, in the interests
+of the general reader, we vouchsafe a passing notice of their strange
+career.
+
+In 1814, twenty-five years after the mutiny, Sir Thomas Staines in H.M.S.
+_Briton_ visited the island, at which time the little colony consisted of
+46 individuals, 38 of whom had been born thus far from all civilization.
+Nevertheless the little community were living contented and happy in all
+the simplicity of a patriarchal family, and in the cultivation of the
+cardinal virtues of Christian morality, inculcated by the now venerable
+Will. Adams, such as thankfulness to the Creator of all things, patience,
+gentleness, and neighbourly love.
+
+The very singular origin of this exemplary race repeatedly attracted
+passing ships to this little-known island, and this intercourse did not
+fail to exercise a pernicious effect upon the spiritual-mindedness of the
+islanders, the more so that there were among these numbers of desperate
+adventurers, who did all in their power to mislead this simple-minded
+race.
+
+When Captain Beechy, in 1825, approached the island in his ship _Blossom_,
+he perceived a small boat standing off towards him under full sail. On
+board were Adams himself and several of his pupils. They requested
+permission to come on board, and hardly waiting for an answer, the little
+active lads had clambered up and stood on the quarter-deck. Adams had lost
+his youthful agility, and for a moment seemed to hesitate. The sight of a
+man-of-war, it may well be conceived, made a deep impression upon him. It
+called up too many mournful recollections, and when he beheld the cannon
+and all the "circumstance of war," with which in his youth he had been
+familiar, he could no longer restrain himself, and tears of emotion
+flowed down his wrinkled cheeks and silvery beard. At this period the
+island boasted 66 inhabitants, and the old man felt deep anxiety lest the
+little spot of earth to which he was banished apparently without hope of
+reprieve, should ere long prove insufficient to provide adequate support
+or even space for its rapidly-increasing population.[100] He spoke to the
+excellent Beechy upon the subject, and implored the English Government to
+provide his little flock with a more comfortable abiding-place under the
+English sceptre, and better adapted to the wants of his rapidly-increasing
+posterity.
+
+On 5th March, 1829, Adams expired at the age sixty-five, surrounded by his
+children and descendants. In the latter days of his illness, during the
+short intervals of ease which his intermittent agony left him, he
+expressed a wish that the community would during his life select some one
+to be their head; however, out of respect for the venerable sufferer, this
+was not carried out officially, but after the death of Adams, Edward
+Johnny, son of one of the seamen of the _Bounty_, assumed the Presidency
+of the little colony, while renouncing the honorary title.
+
+Under him the Anglo-Tahitian settlers enjoyed visible prosperity, when an
+unexpected event destroyed for ever the placid tenure of their existence,
+and compelled them to leave their beloved island. On his return to Europe,
+the gallant Beechy, intending to confer a real benefit on the gentle
+people in whom he felt so lively an interest, had laid before the British
+Government Adams' dying request, in consequence of which an English
+man-of-war and a transport made their appearance from Port Jackson,
+Australia, in March, 1831, to transport the whole of the inhabitants to
+Tahiti, which European nations regarded as the most suitable spot for them
+to be settled in. The Pitcairn Islanders were in despair, for, when made
+aware of the steps taken by "Father Adams" through Captain Beechy to get
+them placed under the British Crown, the good folks had long before
+written to England and urgently entreated that they would not remove them
+from their own hearth; but their entreaties seem not to have reached the
+proper quarter, or else to have received no attention, and now that the
+two ships lay off the island, evincing the interest taken by the English
+Government in their future destiny, they could not venture on refusing to
+embark. They had to content themselves with the assurance that they should
+be restored to Pitcairn Island, in the event of their not finding
+themselves comfortable in their new asylum.
+
+By the end of March, 1831, they reached Tahiti. Although Queen Pomare had
+set apart a certain tract of land for them to settle in, and manifested
+the warmest interest, and though the usually frivolous but hospitable and
+kindly Tahitians received the new arrivals in the most cordial manner,
+the pure minds of the latter were so disgusted and revolted with what they
+saw at Papeete, that the very day after they disembarked, they loudly
+declared that under no circumstances would they remain there, and
+therefore claimed to be taken back to Pitcairn's Island. When it was found
+that all representations failed to induce them to make any stay at Tahiti,
+a few Protestant missionaries got up, in conjunction with some English
+residents, a fund of some L400, with which they chartered a schooner, for
+the purpose of restoring the Pitcairn Islanders to their rocky paradise in
+the solitudes of the Pacific, for which they felt such an irresistible
+homesickness. In August of the same year the return voyage took place.
+During their short stay at Tahiti, fourteen had died of sheer grief and
+anguish of mind, like plants that had been transplanted into a foreign
+soil. Although only six months absent in all from Pitcairn Island, there
+was not one single family but had to regret the loss of some beloved
+member!
+
+Despite their bitter experience hitherto, the old terror of
+over-population again arose in the bosoms of the Pitcairners, after a
+series of prosperous and peaceful years, and a wish began to be frequently
+expressed that at least a portion of the inhabitants could be drafted off
+to some other island. In order to comprehend and do justice to this
+feeling, one must place oneself in the position of a resident on an
+extremely small solitary island in the ocean, which is often for years
+cut off from any communication with the outer world, and every corner of
+which has already been cultivated to the utmost: would it not be a
+pardonable anxiety, which in view of such circumstances should fill with
+gloomy forebodings the heart of every prudent head of a family, and make
+him hesitate between love for his native soil, and the desire to preserve
+independence and comfort to his family?
+
+A second attempt at acquiring a settlement beyond their own confined
+limits was not more fortunate than the first. The Government of England,
+with the meritorious care for the interest of even the poorest of her
+subjects in the most remote regions of the globe, which is one of her
+noblest characteristics, once more dispatched a ship of war to Pitcairn,
+with orders to transport the inhabitants to Norfolk Island between New
+Zealand and New California, of the marvellous climate, vegetation, and
+fertility of which the most glowing accounts were in circulation. A few
+plants which had been conveyed thence by English navigators to Europe had
+excited universal astonishment--such exquisite forms of vegetation, it was
+thought, could only form part of some landscape of marvellous beauty and
+richness. And one must, in fact, have seen the _Araucaria excelsa_, the
+well-known Norfolk Island pine, in order rightly to understand these
+raptures. Such an island, it was thought, with an equable climate,
+fertile, and of adequate extent, must be the very thing for the idyllic
+life of such a people as the Pitcairn Islanders. Adams' descendants and
+their kinsmen accordingly suffered themselves to be persuaded into trying
+this change, the more so that their own island was beginning, as had long
+been foreseen, to prove too small for them, and the possibility of a
+deficiency of food began to assume an appalling air of probability.
+
+In May, 1856, the British Government expended L5000 in sending another
+ship from Sydney to Pitcairn, to carry out the wishes of the inhabitants
+and their advocates in England, by transporting the entire community to
+Norfolk Island. There were in all 193 souls, viz. 40 men, 47 women, 54
+boys and 52 girls, who now said farewell to the land of their birth. But
+on this occasion also the elder seemed to feel an anticipation of their
+speedy return, and before they embarked they took every possible
+precaution to ensure their finding their dwellings in the same order in
+which they were leaving them. They placed written bills on the doors of
+their houses, in which they requested all visitors to abstain from
+injuring their property, as they were only leaving the island for an
+indefinite visit, and would very speedily return to their old quarters.
+They killed all the pigs and dogs upon the island, lest the first should
+violate the sanctity of the grave, and the latter injure their flocks and
+herds.
+
+By the ensuing harvest-time they were installed in their new home.
+Provided for the first time by the English Government with the requisite
+means of subsistence, as well as agricultural implements, &c., they seemed
+to feel themselves quite at home, and their friends and well-wishers in
+England began to indulge hopes that they had at last found at Norfolk
+Island the long-wished-for asylum, and as energetic and industrious
+landowners would at once benefit themselves and develope the resources of
+the island. These pleasing anticipations were the more natural, as for a
+number of years nothing more was heard of the "Pitcairn Islanders," except
+that everything was going on prosperously and quietly in the new colony.
+
+While the _Novara_ was lying at Sydney, in November and December, 1858,
+intelligence was received respecting these colonists, in whom, on account
+of their singular history, the deepest interest was felt there as
+elsewhere. In the (then) Governor-general's (Sir W. Denison's) residence
+we saw a photographic group of the islanders, male and female, whose
+pleasing expression involuntarily excited profound sympathy for the
+persons thus represented. Since their arrival in Norfolk Island there had
+been no more definite news concerning them.
+
+At New Zealand, in like manner, nothing was known of what they were doing.
+At St. John's College, Auckland, we quite accidentally fell in with two
+young well-grown men, who we were told were Pitcairn Islanders in the
+course of education for missionaries. There was in their faces a mild,
+half-melancholy expression; they spoke perfectly good English, but in the
+most ordinary conversation used Scriptural phraseology. It was known that
+when he began to instruct the younger members of the community Adams
+possessed only a Bible and some religious books. Thus they not only were
+instructed in the Book of books, but even in ordinary life the biblical
+phraseology and peculiarity of expression still clung, even to the fourth
+generation.
+
+During our visit to Tahiti we heard one day that the schooner _Louisa_,
+Captain Stewart, had just arrived from Pitcairn Island, whither he had
+transported a number of its former inhabitants from Norfolk Island. We
+resolved to get speech with this gentleman, in order that we might gather
+from his own lips the details of his voyage. It so chanced that he stayed
+in the house of an English settler, who had let to us a small palm-hut
+during our stay at Papeete. We very soon struck up an acquaintance.
+Captain Stewart, a genuine Englishman in appearance, character, and
+expression, explained to us in brief terms that he had at their own cost
+transported a number of the Pitcairners from Norfolk Isle to their old
+home, and, during the voyage, which lasted some weeks, had kept a pretty
+full journal. "But," continued the truth-loving captain, "I am not at
+present in a position to give you any circumstantial details respecting
+them. Business compels me to go over to the island of Eimeo, and by the
+time I return hither the _Novara_ will be well on her way to Valparaiso. I
+am likewise bound, however, for the west coast of South America, in fact
+to Valparaiso, and shall probably arrive there a few weeks after you. I
+promise you, during my voyage thither, to jot down the most important data
+I can recall respecting these islanders, and they shall be placed at your
+disposal immediately on my arrival in Valparaiso." We thanked Captain
+Stewart for his kindness, and we parted with a vigorous "shake hands" of
+genuine English cordiality.
+
+The reader will see in the subsequent chapter how honourably the worthy
+skipper kept his word. Two months later, after we had sailed over 5220
+nautical miles, we were handed the promised information; but to preserve
+uniformity we shall present the reader at once with this comprehensive
+sketch of the present state of Pitcairn and its amiable inhabitants, as
+furnishing the latest particulars of the islanders, which are now for the
+first time published in Europe.
+
+"Captain Stewart had been in communication with the inhabitants of
+Pitcairn in November, 1858. Landing at Norfolk Island, in the course of a
+voyage in the South Sea, the community chartered his schooner to convey
+certain of their number back to Pitcairn Island. They declared they had
+only quitted Pitcairn in consequence of the glowing description given them
+of Norfolk Island. Instead of the promised superabundance, they could only
+by dint of severe labour provide themselves with the ordinary necessaries
+of life. Their staple of food was sweet potatoes and a small quantity of
+meat, in fact, a single bullock, which by permission of Government they
+slaughtered once a week, and the flesh of which served the entire
+community.
+
+"Besides all this, the rudeness of the climate did not seem to suit them,
+and diseases seemed to become more and more frequent among them. In fact,
+it turned out that the natural advantages of Norfolk Island had been
+persistently overrated by early visitors, the consequence being that the
+poor Pitcairners found themselves woefully disappointed in the
+expectations they had formed of their sojourn in this terrestrial
+paradise.
+
+"The scenery of the island is everywhere lovely, and the peculiarity of
+its vegetation, especially when seen from seaward, exercises a kind of
+fascination over the beholder; but the ground, which is the most important
+consideration for the settler, who is bound to the soil, not by the
+sublime and beautiful, but by the useful, is very far from being fertile,
+and the sole descriptions of produce extensively raised are maize and
+sweet potato. Wheat and barley are so exposed to frost and mildew that
+only one crop out of several proves remunerative, and the potato makes so
+small a return, in consequence of the amount of seed and labour required,
+that it is only cultivated as a rarity. Even the commonest vegetables are
+scanty and of poor quality, and under these circumstances it is at least
+probable that the cultivation formerly carried on by the English convicts
+and criminals, in which the results would naturally exceed expectation,
+had led to the mistaken idea that Norfolk Island was fertile. It is about
+9000 English acres (14 English square miles) of superficial area, of which
+about 1500 acres only are cleared, and but one half of that, or
+one-twelfth of the whole, suitable for cultivation.
+
+"It is just possible to land on either the south or north sides, if _the
+water be smooth_; the little village is situated near the former, and
+consists of about 100 'block-houses' of various dimensions. There are also
+a number of stone-buildings upon the island, which speak of the times when
+the island was a penal settlement, and comprises a large prison for about
+2000 convicts, besides the necessary barracks for the military guard; a
+church, a hospital, magazines, and dwelling-houses for the Governor, the
+chaplain, the inspector, the officers, &c., buildings which, taken in
+conjunction with the grave-mounds and frail tombstones of the adjoining
+churchyard, tell a mournful tale to the visitor of the earlier
+inhabitants, and of the tragic fate of many thousands who must have toiled
+and sunk under their hopeless doom in Norfolk Island.
+
+"The Pitcairn Islanders occupied the houses constructed for the Government
+officials, and had not shown the slightest attempt to settle upon spots
+suitable for agriculture. When the British Government made the island over
+to them to be cleared and reclaimed there were about 2000 head of sheep,
+several hundred cattle, 20 draught horses, and a large number of swine and
+poultry. In addition to this handsome present, Government gave them
+provisions for six months, besides agricultural implements, seeds of
+various useful plants, and vegetables of every description. There were
+also two sloops, of about 15 tons each, left at the island, besides a
+complete stock of household necessaries. All the above were made a free
+gift of to the islanders by the British Government, which merely reserved
+to itself a part of what used to be the prison-buildings, in case it
+should wish to devote them to its former purposes at some future period.
+
+"When Captain Stewart visited Norfolk Island, in 1858, the population
+consisted of 219 Pitcairn Islanders, and two English soldiers with their
+families, employed as surveyors by Government.
+
+"On the day of his arrival a public meeting was held, at which the chief
+magistrate of the community presided, and the females played a not
+unimportant part. It was arranged that for a certain sum Captain Stewart
+should convey 60 of the Pitcairn Islanders to their old abode. A special
+motion for the purpose was put to the meeting with all due form, seconded,
+and reduced to writing on either side. At the same time it was
+imperatively ordered that all should be ready to embark on the fourth day
+thereafter, and as there is but one, and that not a very safe, anchorage
+off the whole coast of the island, the Captain stood off and on in its
+neighbourhood.
+
+"The eve of the fated fourth day found the delicate question still
+unsettled of who were to be the happy 60, so many had set their hearts on
+forming part of the expedition. A second meeting was convened, this time
+under the presidency of their chaplain, but the only result was to defer
+for one day the embarkation. During this entire period the poor people
+were in the utmost excitement. The place of embarkation was covered with
+the baggage of all who were desirous of returning to Pitcairn's Island;
+but, as in consequence of their original descent there have been such
+frequent intermarriages, and hence such close relationship, reminding one
+of the clans of Scotland, it was impossible to decide who was to go and
+who to remain. At length, on the expiry of the last day left them to
+decide, it was arranged that in the event of Captain Stewart proving
+unable to take off two entire families or clans (about 100 persons), only
+one should be taken to Pitcairn. The Captain hesitated at venturing on so
+long a voyage with such a number of souls in so small a vessel. He
+therefore took on board only 17 of the islanders, men, women, and
+children, whom he landed at Pitcairn Island, after a voyage of 42 days,
+amid tears of rapture at finding themselves on the well-remembered spot.
+The notifications they had attached to their doors on leaving had not
+entirely answered their expectations. During their absence several of the
+huts had been gutted, and a large number of the oxen had been carried off.
+However, it was not altogether malice or wanton destruction which had
+diverted to other purposes their cherished household gods. Shortly before
+their arrival, in a wild night of storms, the American clipper _Wild Wave_
+had been wrecked on a coral reef, not far from Pitcairn, and a part of the
+crew, having succeeded in reaching the island, were compelled to avail
+themselves of the building material, thus collected to hand for them, with
+which to construct a boat, in which, with true sailor-like hardihood, to
+face the winds and waves once more. For this purpose the church and some
+twenty huts came handy, while a plentiful stock of goats, sheep, and
+poultry were roaming at large about the island. A considerable quantity of
+valuable tropical fruit was hanging ripe upon the trees, and seemed only
+awaiting the return of the former owners to be plucked for use.
+
+"The baggage was speedily landed, and an unusual activity prevailed, with
+the view of getting housed as speedily as possible. It was plain these
+poor people had never expected again to get possession of a domain which
+they had abandoned through ignorance and misrepresentation. The reverent
+air with which they entered their huts and gazed around with keen
+scrutinizing glance to see if all had been left in its former state,
+showed with what love and veneration they clung to this gloomy possession
+of their progenitors, with all its melancholy traditions, which seemed to
+exercise over them a deeper attraction than the majestic ruins of a
+princely ancestral castle, with all its world-famous memories, sometimes
+does upon the youthful representative of its pristine glories.
+
+"The important part played by the women during the consultations held at
+Norfolk Island seemed anew to be claimed by the fair sex at Pitcairn, and
+Captain Stewart could not sufficiently wonder at the high social position
+they occupied in the little community. The ladies for their part made the
+most of this privilege, and their utmost efforts were directed towards
+justifying it by their activity in household matters."
+
+Such is the latest that is known as to the Pitcairn Islanders and their
+singular destiny. It is not at all improbable that the majority of their
+kindred will gradually find their way back to the original seat of their
+race, there to end their days.
+
+Making all allowance for their aptitude and their natural preferences,
+their innate timidity and lack of decision must leave a painful impression
+upon every impartial mind; but this prominent trait of character seems to
+have a deep-seated physiological basis. The "Mutiny of the _Bounty_" was
+followed by a natural reaction. The ever-present dread of discovery, which
+constantly haunted Christian and his criminal associates, and to their
+dying day deprived them of all tranquillity of mind, was transmitted, but
+in a milder form, to their descendants, and struck root in their bosoms in
+a feeling of dependence and excessive timidity, which prevented even their
+grand-children from attaining tranquillity, and from becoming not to say
+intellectual, but even useful, members of society. Will, courage,
+independence, seem for ever to have fled from the breast of the Pitcairn
+Islanders, who, on the other hand, have many virtues well calculated to
+excite our sympathies, and of whom especially the founder of this
+simple-minded community, the energetic, clear-sighted Adams, has, by his
+actions, proved anew the truthfulness of the saying, "Whoever has the
+power to WILL (a thing) can perform miracles!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Our voyage to the west coast of America was speedy, though rather stormy.
+Seldom were the heavens clear, and alternately with violent rains, we felt
+that discomfort arising from constant motion, the result of heavy seas and
+tremendous rolling, to which the voyager is so frequently exposed.
+
+On 4th April, at night, while shortening sail, owing to the violence of
+the wind and the threatening aspect of the weather, one of the crew was
+precipitated from the main-top-gallant-yard, a height of 125 feet above
+the deck. Being caught as he fell among the shrouds and rigging, he
+succeeded in catching hold of one, and so with diminished force fell into
+the main-top, a fall of 69 feet, upon which some of his comrades, going to
+his assistance, rescued him from further danger, when he was found to have
+suffered so little, that he returned to duty the following day!
+
+On the 11th, without any particularly heavy weather, the main-yard
+suddenly snapped in two. On a more minute investigation it was found that
+it had become greatly weakened by dry rot, so much so that it could no
+longer be used. It was fortunate this took place during ordinary weather,
+so that the two fragments could be lowered without much difficulty. In a
+high sea and heavy weather, such an accident is often attended by most
+lamentable results, for two pieces of timber, each above 40 feet in
+length, measuring 21 inches at the thickest, by 8 inches at the smallest
+diameter, and several thousand pounds in weight, can hardly come rattling
+down upon the hull of the ship without inflicting serious injury, and
+endangering the lives of numbers of men.
+
+As we had no spare main-yard, we had to sling a smaller one till our
+arrival at the nearest port, giving rather a singular appearance to the
+vessel, but without perceptibly affecting her speed.
+
+In 34 deg. S. and 76 deg. W., the temperature of the ocean was observed suddenly
+to fall 3 deg.1 Fahr., and we now, for a distance of about 200 nautical
+miles, were in what is known as Humboldt's current, which carried us
+towards N. by W. at a velocity of from half to three-quarters of a mile
+per hour. Our experience of this renowned current, so far at least as
+regards the season of the year, and the latitude and longitude in which it
+is fallen in with, are widely different from those statistics which
+represent it as sensibly felt at a distance of from 800 to 1000 miles off
+the W. coast of South America.
+
+On the 16th, the faint outline was visible of Aconcagua, the highest of
+the Chilean Andes, and a few hours later we made the lighthouse of
+Valparaiso. A light breeze with a heavy sea made it seem advisable not to
+run in during the night, the result of which was that on the following
+morning it was only by the efforts of some tow-boats dispatched to our
+assistance by the commander of H.B.M. ship of the line "_Ganges_," and the
+French corvette "_Eurydice_" that we were enabled, by 3.30 P.M., to reach
+Valparaiso in the midst of a profound calm, when our anchor was let go in
+25 fathoms, good holding ground, in an excellent roomy berth, away from
+the bustle of the merchantmen.
+
+The voyage from Tahiti, 5000 nautical miles, was accomplished in 48 days,
+and although a considerable portion must be marked as "lost," owing to our
+having steered for the zero point of magnetic declination, we yet arrived
+at our destination sooner than merchantmen which left Papeete before us,
+or in company, but had steered south of the Paomotu group.
+
+Mr. Flemmich, the Austrian Consul-general at Valparaiso, immediately sent
+our letters on board, but the regular packet, which we had expected to
+find here before us, had not come in, and the delay served to double the
+anxiety of all on board, in view of the political clouds that were
+hovering over our native land.
+
+
+                               FOOTNOTES:
+
+[60] The original spelling of the name of this island arose from ignorance
+of the language. To the question, "_Eaha tera fenua?_" (What is the name
+of this island?) the natives replied, "_O Taiti Oia._" The article was
+thus taken for the first syllable and the island was called _O Taheite_.
+Since then the thorough knowledge we have acquired of the language has
+rectified the mistake. In Tahitian the two verbs "to be" and "to have" are
+altogether wanting. _O_ is simply the nominative of an article which very
+frequently is placed before a proper name to give it emphasis, or even for
+the sake of euphony. _O_ accordingly is used in the above sentence merely
+to imply "it is." A literal translation from Tahitian into any European
+language is in most cases impossible. Occasionally one finds Tahiti
+mentioned by the names of _La Sagittaria_, _King George the Third's
+Island_, _Nouvelle Cythere_, and _Amat_.
+
+[61] The derivation of the name Pomare, which has since become that of the
+Tahitian dynasty, is purely accidental. The father of Otu was once
+travelling among the mountains, and had to camp out in the open air. The
+bad weather gave him a violent cold with hoarseness, which induced one of
+his companions to name the night spent in such discomfort _Po-mare_, i. e.
+a night (po) of cough (mare). The chieftain so acutely felt the pertinency
+of this name that he adopted it as his _own_ name.--(Vide _Ellis,
+Polynesian Researches_, vol. ii. p. 70.)
+
+[62] These four missionaries were named Chrysostome Liansu, Francois
+d'Assis Caret, Honore Laval, and Columban Murphy, an Irish catechist.
+
+[63] Vide Annales de la Propagation de la Foi, No. xli. p. 31.
+
+[64] "It is not surprising," he writes in a letter to his superiors, "that
+on the arrival in this country, so long given over to the evil spirit of a
+child of the _Sacre c[oe]ur_ (Divine heart), that enemy of all which is
+good should have raged with redoubled fury, and that the Protestant
+emissaries should have believed I came to overthrow their empire!!"--Vide
+_Annales de la Propagation de la Foi_, No. lvi. p. 204.
+
+[65] "I am," wrote Queen Pomare, to the then King Louis Philippe, "only
+the ruler of a small, insignificant island. May wisdom, renown, and power
+ever attend your Majesty! Cease then your anger, and pardon the error I
+have committed."
+
+[66] This additional article ran as follows: "The free exercise of the
+Catholic religion is permitted in the Island of Tahiti, and in all the
+other possessions of Queen Pomare. The French Catholics shall enjoy all
+the privileges accorded to the Protestants, _but they shall nevertheless
+not be entitled to meddle, under any pretext, in the religious affairs of
+the country_. Done at Tahiti, 20th June, 1839."
+
+[67] These two letters are dated, "Waiau, on the Island of Raiatea, 24th
+Sept. 1844," whither Queen Pomare had withdrawn after the events of
+November, 1843, and whence she only returned to Tahiti in 1847.
+
+[68] According to the laws of the country, each married resident
+contributes one franc per annum to the civil list; a widower with one
+child, one franc; a widower without children, two francs; an unmarried
+adult, two francs; an adult female unmarried, one franc; boys under
+sixteen, and girls under fourteen, as also criminals and persons
+incapacitated for labour, pay nothing. This is the only direct tax the
+inhabitants are called upon to pay. The revenues of the island do not,
+however, suffice to defray the expenses of the French occupation. Before
+the arrival of the Europeans the Tahitians had no description of currency,
+but had recourse in all business transactions to barter. The Protestant
+missionaries were the first to introduce about L2000 of copper money,
+which they had got struck in England for the purpose. This currency was
+based upon a coin of the value of one half-penny. On one side was a ship,
+and on the obverse the words "COPPER PREFERABLE TO PAPER." When the French
+came to the island they flung this money into the sea, and forbade their
+circulation under heavy penalties! At present the only coins used are
+francs and _rera_ (about one-third of a franc=3-1/4_d._ nearly).
+
+[69] This State paper is couched in very brief and intelligible terms in
+both French and Tahitian, and runs as follows:--
+
+"Her Majesty, the Queen of the Society Islands, and H.E. the Governor of
+the French possessions in Eastern Oceania:--
+
+"1st. Considering that there are no 'projets de loi' (Bills) to be
+submitted for legislative enactment during 1859, and that assembly has
+further no budget to vote;
+
+"2nd. Considering moreover the considerable expenses to which the members
+of the said assembly are put for their sojourn at Papeete during its
+session;
+
+"3rd. Considering Article 7 of the Ordinance of 28th April, 1847;
+
+"Decide,--
+
+"The Legislative Assembly of the States of the Protectorate will not meet
+in session during the year 1859. Papeete, 10th February, 1859.
+
+                                             (Signed)       "Saisset."
+
+A similar notification drawn up in Tahitian, is countersigned by Queen
+Pomare. One Tahitian, who was a member of the Legislative Assembly,
+remarked to us, after reading the foregoing announcement in the _Moniteur
+Tahitian_, "How then can any one say beforehand whether or no there are no
+important questions to discuss?"
+
+[70] M. Adam Kulczycki, who was at that period entrusted with the
+management of native affairs, and is an accomplished Tahitian scholar,
+besides occupying himself with astronomical and meteorological
+observations, and geological investigations, has been for seventeen years
+in the French service, and, a Pole by birth, served not without
+distinction in the struggles of his native land for liberty.
+
+[71] "_O Taiti (Tahiti), par G. Cuzent, Pharmacien de la Marine, &c. &c.
+Paris, Librairie de Victor Masson, 1861._" It is a most valuable book, the
+result for the most part of personal examination and illustration, and
+arranged with much care and method.
+
+[72] _Canaka_, in the Tahitian dialect, as in that of the Sandwich
+Islands, is equivalent to MAN.
+
+[73] At one service which we attended in Mr. Howe's chapel there were
+fifty "communicants" present; a pupil of the missionary played the organ.
+The Queen, too, and her family, who are strongly attached to the services
+of the Evangelical Church, are frequently present at these Sunday
+gatherings.
+
+[74] Several of the girls who live in Mr. Howe's family are Catholics,
+whose parents prefer they should be educated in a Protestant school rather
+than not at all.
+
+[75] The cost of the Catholic missions in Eastern Oceania amounts on the
+average to frs. 100,000 (L4000) per annum. "The Society for the
+Propagation of the Faith" (French) subscribes annually from frs. 3,000,000
+to 4,000,000 (L120,000 to L160,000) for the races of heathendom. Of this
+Oceania and Australia get from frs. 400,000 to frs. 500,000 (L16,000 to
+L20,000).
+
+[76] With reference to this, the following remarks are especially
+noteworthy, made by M. Guizot at a time when France still possessed a
+tribune and a parliament: "What particularly strikes me is that our
+missionaries do not make new conquests for a Church already powerful; that
+they do not extend the sphere of supremacy of the ecclesiastical
+government. The Roman Catholic missionary arrives alone, ignorant of the
+actual state of affairs, having none of the affections common to
+humanity--in a word, better fitted to acquire an ascendant than to enlist
+sympathy. The Protestant ministers are, on the contrary, family missions,
+so to speak; so that a pagan population will more readily be led to regard
+as brothers men who are husbands and fathers like themselves. Thus these
+missions instruct by presenting specimens of Christian society side by
+side with precepts of faith; the example of all the relations and
+sentiments of domestic life, regulated according to the morality of the
+Gospel they are sent to teach; a mode of instruction most assuredly not
+the least efficacious, if not absolutely perfect." (Discours de M. Guizot
+dans l'Assemblee Generale, du 11 Avril, 1826.)
+
+[77] In the "_Lois Revisees dans l'Assemblee Legislative au mois de Mars
+de l'annee 1848, pour la conduite de tous, sous le gouvernement du
+Protectorat dans les terres de la Societe_," is the following stringent
+passage, "The dance, known as Upa-Upa, is interdicted in the islands under
+the Protectorate. On fete days and public festivals dancing is permitted,
+but no indecent gestures will be tolerated." The Upa-Upa dates from the
+period when the secret society of the Arreois, whose chief tenets were
+drinking feasts, polygamy, and infanticide, existed over the greater part
+of the islands of the Pacific. Moerenhout, in his "_Voyages aux iles du
+grand Ocean_" (Paris, 1837, vol. i. p. 484), gives a very complete account
+of this singular society, which has since entirely disappeared before the
+zeal of Protestant missionaries.
+
+[78] Experiments have also been made quite recently with coffee, which the
+Government likewise fosters. The largest plantation is the property of a
+Frenchman named Bonnefin, who, in 1859, grew as much as 8000 lbs. The high
+price of labour, however, renders its production so dear that Tahitian
+coffee costs 100 fr. (L4) the centum (100 lbs), or about ten pence the
+pound, on the spot, whereas the best Costa Rica coffee costs only from L2
+to L2 8_s._ the centum, or five pence to six pence the pound. The
+Protectorate officials hope to supply this very perceptible lack of labour
+by introducing into Tahiti, as field workers, the prisoners of war they
+take in New Caledonia.
+
+[79] Mr. Wilson, a missionary, estimated the population of Tahiti in 1797
+at 16,000 souls. In 1848, when the French administration took its first
+census, the native population amounted to 8082 (viz. 4466 males, 3616
+females), the number of Europeans being 475 (428 males and 47 females). In
+1858 it had fallen to 5988, or 2580 fewer than it had been 30 years before
+(1829), when, according to a census taken by the English missionaries, the
+population of Tahiti was 8568 of both sexes and all ages.
+
+[80] Among the splendid specimens of the forest flora of Tahiti we
+remarked, in addition to the cocoa-nut palm, the bread-fruit tree and
+Pandanus, of which we shall presently speak more at length, on account of
+their economic, industrial, and therapeutic qualities. The _Calophyllum
+Inophyllum_ (Ati), _Inocarpus edulis_ (Masse), _Aleurites triloba_
+(Tu-tui), _Rhus Taitense_ (Apape), _Ficus tinctoria_ (Mati), _Ficus
+prolixa_(Ora), _Gleichenia Hermanni_ (Eanuhe), _Hibiscus tiliaceus_ (Purau
+or Fao), _Lagenaria vulgaris_ (Hue), _Pisonia inermis_ (Puna tehea),
+_Spondias dulcis_ (Bri), _Arundo Bambus_ (Ofe), _Tanghinia Maughas_
+(Ruva), _Morinda citrifolia_ (Nono), _Guettenda speciosa_ (Tafano), _Boxa
+Orellana_, &c. &c.
+
+[81] According to Kulczycki's measurements the lake lies 430 metres (1401
+feet) above the sea, and is 400 metres (1304 feet) in circumference, while
+the precipitous peaks around are 1800 metres (5865 feet) above sea-level.
+
+[82] According to the laws of Tahiti, whenever the entire male descendants
+of a chief have become extinct, his eldest female offspring becomes chief
+of the district, sits as such in the legislative assembly, and has a voice
+in the administration of justice. At present there are five
+chieftainesses, who are members of the Tahitian parliament. Their husbands
+have no political influence whatever, except as the husbands of these
+ladies!
+
+[83] _Carabus_ (Anglice Calaboose) is a corruption of the Spanish word
+_Calabozo_, a prison. The _Carabus_ of Papeete is a sort of pound in which
+drunken people or mischievous vagabonds are confined, and whence they are
+released on payment of 5 or 10 francs. These mulcts or convictions form a
+not unimportant source of revenue, and are of twofold demoralizing
+operation; for while it is the interest of the police on the one hand to
+make as many arrests as possible, so as to insure a larger sum for
+division, the wretched, sensual Tahitian girls find in the prosecution of
+the filthy trade that has brought them within the clutch of the police the
+best means of procuring their release!
+
+[84] Queen Pomare finds herself entirely dependent upon the French
+Protectorate. On the slightest symptom of asserting her position she is
+met by a stoppage of her allowance, and as, in consequence of the rather
+opulent mode of life adopted by the generous-hearted lady, the incomings
+and outgoings are apt not to square, her pecuniary straits are not
+infrequently made use of for political purposes.
+
+[85] Obviously a corruption of the French "mouton," the popular name for a
+spy.
+
+[86] Of this expensive fruit, which grows in large quantities on the
+island, and only needs to be gathered, there are exported annually some
+five or six ship-loads, worth about fr. 200,000 (L8000), all which find
+their way to California, where 1000 oranges are worth from $40 to $60 (L8
+8_s._ to L12 12_s._), whereas, a similar quantity is worth in Tahiti at
+the outside L1 to L1 4_s._
+
+[87] Besides the cocoa-nut oil and arrow-root, which are at present
+exported from Tahiti and constitute its chief trade, the produce of the
+neighbouring islands might be conveniently passed through Tahiti. The
+pearl oysters (_Meleagrina Margaretifera_), which are usually dredged for
+in the months of January, February, March, and April, come chiefly from
+the Paomotu and Gambier groups. The latter-named group, however, only
+sends about 500 tons of these annually, worth about fr. 500 to fr. 600
+(L20 to L24) per ton. In the year 1859, the entire importation of these
+was contracted for by a merchant of Papeete at $140 (L29 10_s._) per ton.
+The natives of Gambier, accustomed to dive, use to bring up the pearl
+oysters from a depth of from 150 to 180 feet.
+
+[88] On the island of Eimeo, or Morea, lying off Tahiti, the area of which
+is 13,237 hectares, there is a table-land about the centre of the island,
+surrounded by a semi-circular range of lofty precipices, which would be
+found thoroughly fit for cattle pasture. The cultivation of the grape and
+of European vegetables might also be profitably undertaken.
+
+[89] Here also we encountered this useful plant, which was first
+introduced into Tahiti in 1851, by means of seeds from Paris. Of these
+twenty-five were sown, which within three months gave a sufficient return
+of seed to admit of the cultivation of the sorgho being extended through a
+number of districts. One year later, the crop amounted already to about
+2100 kilogrammes (4900 lbs., or two tons and a quarter), which were
+disposed of at 1-1/2d. per kilogramme (somewhat under a penny per lb.).
+
+[90] A gallon of cocoa-nut oil is worth, by way of barter for goods, about
+one franc and a half, and for specie one franc. The adjoining islands
+abound in cocoa-nuts, Anaa, one of the Paomotu group, being capable of
+delivering from 300 to 400 tons of oil per annum.
+
+[91] The fermented juice of the orange, the pine-apple, the _pandanus_
+fruit, the _spondias dulcis_, and the wild bananas, were also used in
+former times for the preparation of intoxicants. Since the introduction of
+European spirits, the natives discriminate all foreign drinks as
+_Ava-papaa_, their own being named _Ava-maohi_.
+
+[92] Before the arrival on the island of the Europeans, Tahitian society
+was divided into three classes: viz. Arii, or chiefs; Raatira, or
+land-holders, of whom the most distinguished in each district were called
+Tataui; and, lastly, Manahune, or Tenantry at will. To the latter class
+belonged all prisoners of war. Between the Arii and Raatira there was a
+middle class, the Eietoai, corresponding to the European title of
+Honourable. Latterly the name _Tacana_ has come into almost universal use
+for the Arii, being in fact nothing but a corruption of the English word
+"Governor."
+
+[93] These calculations are merely approximative. The Custom House at
+Papeete has sufficient documents, but it keeps them secret, apparently for
+political reasons, if we may credit the remark of a Tahitian. "It is not
+wished to let all the world know that we are _not_ in a prosperous state."
+
+[94] Letter concerning the actual state of the island of Tahiti, addressed
+to H.M. the Emperor Napoleon III., by Alexander Salmon. London, Effingham
+Wilson, 1858.
+
+[95] The French garrison in Tahiti and Eimeo (Morea), including the
+administrative officials, numbers about 400 men. The Governor receives,
+besides extras, L1200 pay; the _Commandant particulier_ draws other L800,
+in addition to which both these officers draw _allowances_ as officers in
+the Imperial navy (13_s._ 4_d._ to L1 per diem.)
+
+[96] We had an opportunity while at Papeete of obtaining some particulars
+of this renowned French penal settlement from the mouth of a person whom
+no one will be likely to accuse of exaggeration. M. de la Richerie, who,
+while we were at Papeete, filled the position of Imperial commissary, and
+is the present Governor of Tahiti, was for four years (1854-57) director
+of the penal settlement at Cayenne. During the period of his authority the
+entire population consisted of from 5000 to 6000 prisoners, 1500 garrison,
+200 free settlers, and from 16,000 to 18,000 negroes. The expense of
+keeping on foot this small colony was not less than from L160,000 to
+L200,000. The mortality among all classes, free as well as prisoners, was
+perfectly appalling, averaging from 28 to 33 per cent.!! Of 6000
+prisoners, 2000 died in one year; out of 36 medical men, 18 died in the
+discharge of their duties. The number of fever-stricken in the hospital
+was never less than from 500 to 600!! The director once entered an
+apartment in which above 250 of the unfortunate political criminals lay on
+their sick beds. He inquired of the physician in attendance how long they
+were likely to live? Possibly a year, was the reply. "_Depechez-vous
+donc_," said the director, as he turned from the unhappy wretches, who had
+no resource except the hospital, and, sick in mind and body, longed
+earnestly for the day which should see their wretched couches vacated for
+the calm tranquillity of death. M. de la Richerie was of opinion that no
+political convict lives more than four or five years in Cayenne, and that
+even the free settler cannot withstand the deadly influence of the climate
+above ten years. But the government founded on the 2nd December gives
+itself little concern. The utility of the system of deportation has been
+fully understood, and is unsparingly carried out. The time seems to be at
+hand when all Frenchmen who venture to challenge the Napoleonic ideas,
+will be banished their native country, nay, exiled from Europe.
+
+[97] Shortly after his arrival in Valparaiso, Longomasino went to Serena,
+a city in Chili of 20,000 inhabitants, near some rich copper-mines, where
+he occupied himself with editing a newspaper in Spanish.
+
+[98] Chart of curves of equal magnetic variations, 1858, by Frederick
+Evans, Master, R.N.
+
+[99] This colic stuck to the ship for nearly eight months, and out of 36
+cases, the shortest time it took to run its course was nine days, the
+longest 94.
+
+[100] One main source of anxiety, which determined Adams to request the
+good offices of the British Government, was the scanty supply of
+drinking-water. There was at this time only one available spring of fresh
+water, and this supply was so small that two quarts of water were all that
+each family could be allowed during the day.
+
+
+                        [Illustration: The Lasso]
+
+
+
+
+                                  XXI.
+
+                              Valparaiso.
+
+                Stay from 17th April to 11th May, 1859.
+
+    Importance of Chile for German emigration.--First impressions of
+    Valparaiso.--Stroll through the city.--Commercial relations of
+    Chile with Australia and California.--Quebrada de Juan Gomez.--
+    The roadstead.--The Old Quarter and Fort Rosario.--Cerro Algre.--
+    Fire Companies.--Abadie's nursery-garden.--Campo Santo.--The
+    German community and its club.--A compatriot festival in honour
+    of the _Novara_.--Journey to Santiago de Chile.--University.--
+    National Museum.--Observatory.--Industrial and agricultural
+    schools.--Professor Don Ignacio Domey Ko.--Audience of the
+    President of the Republic.--Don Manuel Montt and his political
+    opponents.--Family life in Santiago.--Excursion trip on the
+    southern railroad.--Maipu Bridge.--Melepilla.--The Hacienda of
+    Las Esmeraldas.--Chilean hospitality.--Return to Valparaiso.--
+    Quillota.--The German colony in Valdivia.--Colonization in the
+    Straits of Magellan.--Ball at the Austrian Consul-general's in
+    honour of the _Novara_.--Extraordinary voyage of a damaged
+    ship.--Departure of the _Novara_.--Voyage round Cape Horn.--The
+    Falkland Islands.--The French corvette _Eurydice_.--The Sargasso
+    sea.--Encounter with a merchant-ship in the open ocean.--Hopes
+    disappointed and curiosity excited.--Passage through the Azores
+    channel.--A vexatious calm.
+
+
+The free State of Chile enjoys a higher degree of tranquillity than any of
+the former Spanish dependencies of South America, and in climate, in
+fertility, and in liberal institutions, transcends all others in affording
+the European emigrant the best prospects of a prosperous future.
+
+Chile possesses a constitution which many a European state might envy, the
+civil freedom, which forms the basis of all laws, and just now is so
+eagerly debated and investigated in some parts of Europe, having been in
+practical operation here for upwards of a quarter of a century, during
+which it has materially contributed to develope the resources of the
+country and the prosperity of its inhabitants. Owing to the disturbed
+state of the American Confederation, hitherto the El Dorado of European
+emigration, countries such as Chile, of an extent similar to that of
+England and Greece together, and with a population barely exceeding one
+million of men, possess the very highest attraction. True, at the period
+of our visit the long-enjoyed political tranquillity was for a while
+disturbed by a revolutionary convulsion, but it has cost neither time nor
+trouble to suppress it, upon which the leaders, more ambitious than
+patriotic, took to flight, and public order and safety were reinstated
+upon the broad basis of a constitution, which was wisely drawn up so as to
+admit of keeping pace with the times.
+
+We beheld Chile under anything but its normal favourable aspect; many of
+the leading families of the country had been plunged by political troubles
+into grief and mourning; trade was falling off; the ordinary buoyant
+disposition of the Chileno had given place to painful anxiety; yet all we
+heard and saw during our stay at so unpropitious a period, only served to
+strengthen our conviction that a great and splendid future awaits this
+delightful country.
+
+He who merely lands at a seaport such as Valparaiso, and wanders through
+its lengthy but elegant streets, carries away with him no just conception
+of Chile and the life of the country beyond the Andes. Everything about
+the town, houses, shops, and population, has quite a European aspect, so
+that the stranger walking through some of the streets with their lofty
+grey edifices, gay signs, and large and splendid magazines, abounding in
+everything that can minister to human luxury, might readily fancy himself
+transported to some northern European capital. Nothing is here to tell of
+its being the native country of the Araucanian, nothing recalls that
+singular national aboriginal type, and it is only when contemplating the
+majestic forms of the surrounding landscape that he can realize that he is
+actually in the proximity of Andes, "giant of the Western Star."
+
+One of our first walks through the city, the buildings of which extend,
+row after row, for a considerable distance along the bay, and surmount the
+hillocks (_Quebradas_) which rise at a short distance from the shore,
+brought us to the _Aduana_, or Custom-house, one of the most extensive,
+beautiful, and commodious buildings in the city, which, commenced in 1850
+by a Frenchman, was finished six years later by an American, named John
+Brown. The ground on which the various buildings are erected was quite
+recently gained from the sea by embankment, as was also done in the case
+of the existing _Plaza de Armas_, and the wide and graceful _Calle de
+Planchada_, both which sites were under water less than twenty years
+since!
+
+The Custom-house buildings, including the vast solid warehouses, cost the
+State more than 1,000,000 Spanish piastres (L210,000), but form the finest
+and most convenient edifice of the kind throughout South America. An
+enormous quantity of the most valuable merchandise, which used to be
+scattered about among private houses or disposed of, are now stored in
+large, dry, well-lighted apartments, and can without much trouble or delay
+be got at and taken away. About 200 officials are at work in spacious
+offices registering the trade of the State, which is in a very flourishing
+state, owing to the immense importation of the most various foreign
+fabrics, paid for in a not less extensive export of Chilean products,
+chiefly corn and precious metals. The start taken by the country in
+commerce and agriculture, as also the development of its natural
+resources, dates from the period of the discovery of the Californian
+gold-fields. Chile, so admirably suited for agriculture, very speedily
+became the granary of the gold-country, and set about making the most of
+its manifold advantages. Wheat, barley, beans, increased so much in value,
+that many fields which, on account of comparative poverty, had been
+suffered to lie fallow hitherto, now got under cultivation, and the former
+scanty means of the majority of the proprietors of the soil was at once
+exchanged for unexampled prosperity. The influx of specie did not fail to
+stimulate activity in every other occupation as well, and was mainly
+instrumental in working the mines more systematically, and thus making
+them more productive than hitherto.
+
+The exportation to California speedily increased ten-fold, and within two
+years had increased nearly 2,500,000 piastres (L525,000).
+
+When the gold fever had a few years later abated somewhat in California,
+and the settlers there began to grow grain for themselves, the Chilean
+exports thither dwindled away, till, about 1857, they had sunk to a
+minimum hardly worth mentioning. But meanwhile a second, though rather
+more distant, market was found for Chilean exports, by the discovery of
+not less productive gold-fields in Australia, the imports into which from
+Valparaiso, despite the enormous distance, proved so immensely
+remunerative that the ventures of former years to California were quite
+eclipsed.[101]
+
+Leaving the Custom-house buildings, we climbed up the Quebrada de Juan
+Gomez, one of the numerous narrow valleys or clefts which, spangled on
+both acclivities with villas, usually thatched with shingle, impart to the
+environs of Valparaiso so peculiar an appearance. The most extraordinary
+of these is the _Cerro de Carretas_, a hill from 200 to 300 feet high, to
+the slopes of which cling a variety of filthy wicker huts of the poorest
+sort, which, regarded from a distance, have a picturesque effect. On a
+closer inspection, however, they exhibit utter destitution and degraded
+poverty. At the highest point of the steep Quebrada de Juan Gomez are some
+fortified lines recently thrown up, together with the artillery barracks
+(_Cuartel de Artilleria_), with accommodation for 800 men. The Chilean
+troops are pretty well equipped, but have a by no means imposing air; they
+appear to be patient and persevering, fit for encountering great
+privations and overcoming obstacles, rather than courageous, or eager for
+the fray. There is, in short, a total absence of "dash" about them. From
+the barracks one enjoys a magnificent view over the city and the environs,
+hemmed in on all hands by the ocean. The roadstead greatly resembles that
+of Trieste, and, like the latter, suffers much from N.W. winds. The
+merchantmen lie at anchor in pretty regular order, with the double object
+that, in case of a sudden "norther," they may not suffer from ships
+dragging their anchors, and may be able at once to make sail if necessary.
+
+Although at the commencement of the winter season (May to October) of the
+southern hemisphere, when frequent storms from north and north-west make
+the roads of Valparaiso, if not dangerous, at least hazardous, the
+majority of sailing vessels make for other better-sheltered harbours along
+the west coast, yet there were still about 180 vessels of all sizes and
+every flag lying at anchor off the town. The most unpleasant and severe
+months are June and July, although it is at that period less the violence
+of the gales than the tremendous sea, which occasionally hurls a ship, if
+not properly made fast, into a position of danger, and occasionally
+interrupts all communication with the shore for days together. A season
+sometimes passes over, however, without the occurrence of any elemental
+strife. It would be of the highest interest to be able to ascertain the
+periodicity of the return of severe winters, which there can be little
+doubt obeys some natural law.
+
+The barometer is, at Valparaiso, a pretty correct index of the wind that
+may be expected. The more the mercury sinks, the more perceptible will be
+the N. or N.W. wind. Rain and foggy weather usually precede these winds,
+and continue till the wind draws somewhat to the west, upon which the
+mercury rises and the weather improves. North or north-west winds are,
+however, as a rule never of long continuance, and indeed frequently
+continue only a few hours, because so soon as the first burst is over, the
+trade-wind, upon whose limits it has encroached, soon begins to drive it
+before it, under the influence of an air-wave from the southward, and
+ships which, with the view of suffering as little as possible from north
+or north-west winds, keep as far from the lighthouse as possible, have
+nothing to dread from even a heavy "norther," if all proper precautions
+are taken, and their anchors and cables hold.[102]
+
+In the harbour were the screw steamers _Maipu_ and _Esmeralda_, and the
+paddle screw steamer _Maule_, belonging to the very insignificant navy of
+the Chilean Republic. From the barracks we passed up several Quebradas to
+the ancient "Cuartel" and Fort Rosario, two buildings remarkable enough in
+their way, the erection of which dates back to an early age, as they in
+fact belong to the period when Valparaiso had only 400 population, and was
+part of the assize-circuit of Casa Blanca. The latter, however, which we
+pass on the road to Santiago, is still an insignificant settlement, while
+Valparaiso has become the wealthiest and most important commercial
+emporium along the whole west coast of South America, and boasts a
+population of above 60,000 souls. There are also in this vicinage numbers
+of small filthy one-storeyed huts or _ranchos_ built of cane, which seem
+as though hanging to the acclivities, and are not intended to last any
+time. As it rarely rains at Valparaiso, and then but little, and the
+temperature being tolerably mild throughout the year, the poor have little
+occasion to provide themselves shelter against cold or boisterous weather,
+or to build strong and solid habitations. Moreover, there is perceptible
+among the Chilean populace, as among all other Spanish Americans, an
+innate trait of character, in the shape of indolence and indisposition to
+labour, as they usually strike work for the day as soon as they have
+earned enough for the daily necessaries of life, which they can supply for
+a trifle. Nay, we are told that it is by no means unusual for
+day-labourers, as soon as they have earned their day's wage for their
+principal want, to reply in an indifferent tone to the offer of farther
+work, "Tengo mis dos reals" (I have my two reals)![103]
+
+Not all the Quebradas, however, round Valparaiso are infested with
+wretched huts; some are occupied by tasteful and comfortable residences,
+especially the Cerro Algre, where at present a considerable number of
+Germans reside, and which is conspicuous for the number of elegant little
+villas, as also by the cordiality and hospitality there lavished upon
+strangers. Cerro Algre is one of the most charming, delightful, and
+salubrious spots in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, with a magnificent
+panorama, although not so fashionable a resort as the Almendral, which,
+since the recent appalling conflagration of 1858, reducing within a few
+hours the finest portion of the city to ashes, has been rebuilt with
+numbers of handsome edifices, and has at the same time been widened and
+extended.
+
+The frequency of fires, and the totally inadequate means and appliances
+for their extinction at the disposal of the authorities, led to a number
+of foreigners settled in Valparaiso organizing a Fire-brigade
+(_Pomperos_), in which the _elite_ of the community shortly after were
+enrolled. The founders and first company were the English, after whom came
+the Germans, French, Spaniards, Italians, and lastly the Chilenos
+following suit. A hook and ladder company, consisting of English, Germans,
+and North Americans, was set on foot in 1850. All the arrangements are
+modelled after the Fire Companies of the United States. The engines were
+imported from New York, and cost over L800 a piece. The French displayed
+the greatest luxury in the splendid uniforms of their company and the
+elegant fittings of their very beautiful engine; the Germans, on the other
+hand--not always the case with them--show but a very simple attirement,
+but are behind no other nation in the zeal and courage with which their
+fire company performs its self-imposed duties.
+
+Valparaiso is sadly deficient in suitable promenades, and consequently
+strangers must not be surprised, should they be invited to take a walk to
+the Cemetery (_Campo Santo_), in order to promenade there among cypress
+alleys, and pretentious-looking memorials of the departed.
+
+The Campo Santo is situated on one of the rising grounds behind the city,
+and with its clumps of trees and flower-plots, looks in fact much more
+like a promenade-garden than a grave-yard. Each Catholic fraternity
+(_hermandad_) has its own place assigned it for interment of the dead.
+Beautiful and costly monuments are raised over some of the recent graves,
+like so many testimonies in marble of the influence exercised even upon
+the resting-places of the dead, by the accumulated wealth of the last
+twenty years. Close beside the Catholic cemetery is that of the
+Protestants, which, like the other, is neatly laid out and kept in
+excellent order, but on the whole impresses the visitor less by the
+splendour of the monuments and the elegance of the inscriptions, than by
+its air of solemn simplicity.
+
+Not far from the spot where repose their dead is the place of worship of
+the Protestant community, a slight but neatly-finished edifice of wood,
+somewhat like the "chapels" of the English colonies. This is a pleasing
+evidence of the tolerant spirit of the Chilean Government, in strong
+contrast with most other Catholic states in South America, where religious
+intolerance of heterodoxy goes the length of prohibiting all public
+profession of their faith.
+
+Valparaiso is as badly off for fine open squares and monumental erections
+as for promenades. The Government Square, with its neat Exchange, and
+Victoria Square, with its Theatre, are neither by their antiquity, nor
+their general appearance, calculated to make any impression upon the
+traveller. There is great need of large, good hotels upon the European
+plan; and as there are no cheerful, comfortable cafes, to serve as a
+rallying-point for the male sex after the business of the day is over, the
+traveller is usually dependent for society upon being introduced at the
+different clubs, founded by the various nationalities. Of these the German
+was the finest; but, in consequence of their beautiful, spacious club
+having fallen a sacrifice to the recent conflagration, the members had to
+seek temporary accommodation in rather confined apartments, which greatly
+hampered their desire to show all due honour to our Expedition. Not less
+cordial, however, was our reception, nor the warm interest taken by the
+entire German community of Valparaiso in the scientific attainments of
+certain of its members.[104] Nowhere did the old German hospitality shine
+forth with more serene lustre than among the Germans of Chile, nowhere is
+there a more splendid manifestation of the vigorous intellectual life of
+the good old stock, nowhere a more thorough expression of German unity in
+foreign countries! Exercising a powerful influence in society, as
+merchants, physicians, professors, naturalists, astronomers, chemists,
+engineers, architects, &c., the activity of the German in Chile in every
+avocation of life has not been without a permanent influence on the
+destinies of this free State, and has already left in its institutions
+many a trace of German origin.
+
+One of our most pleasing reminiscences is undoubtedly that of the
+magnificent natural fete got up by the German residents of Valparaiso in
+honour of the _Novara_ one heavenly Easter morning, which came off at the
+beautiful Quebradas of Quilpue, about twelve miles from the port. Quilpue
+is a station on the railroad which runs from Valparaiso into the
+interior, and is intended to form the communication between it and
+Santiago de Chile, 110 miles distant, but of which at present only the
+first 40 miles have been completed.
+
+A special train, its locomotive neatly decorated with garlands of flowers
+and banneroles, conveyed the guests, 150 in number, to Quilpue. From this
+station the joyous party marched with the German flag at the head to one
+of the neighbouring dells, which seemed intended by nature to serve as the
+site of pic-nics in the open air. Here, under a number of spacious and
+elegant tents, we found long tables set out, which a cloud of waiters and
+cooks seemed engaged in loading with every delicacy that could tempt the
+palate.
+
+The company wandered through the adjoining glades, or lay stretched out in
+the shade, in a delicious ecstasy of music and song. The alarm of war,
+which at the moment was booming through Europe, had found its way even to
+the foot of the Chilean Andes, and imparted to the festival a political
+feeling. Although the then state of political matters in Austria was by no
+means such as to fill the mind with enthusiasm for it, yet all the
+feelings of the German of Valparaiso were enlisted on the side of Austria
+in her struggle with France; less out of sympathy with her policy as then
+displayed than out of hatred of Napoleonic assumption.
+
+Thus, in some of the after-dinner speeches which followed in due course,
+as well as in the inspiring songs with which the entertainment was
+enlivened, there was free expression given to this sentiment. A Bavarian
+physician and pharmaceutist, Dr. Aquinas Ried, whose house we found one
+of the most pleasant points of cordial re-union for the members of the
+Expedition, had composed a chorus for male voices, called "Welcome to the
+_Novara_," which he led himself with some of the members of the German
+Choral Union, the closing strophe of which,
+
+    "Sei einig nur Germania,
+    So stehest du auch einzig da,
+          Das grosse Vaterland!"
+
+was received with enthusiastic applause, and was greeted with deafening
+cheers.
+
+This widely-expressed sympathy for German nationality found expression in
+various other ways, not the least conspicuous being the marked courtesy to
+the Expedition manifested by the natives of Chile itself, and in an
+especial degree at Santiago, the capital, where public officers,
+naturalists, and lovers of science vied with each other in welcoming such
+of our number as went over to spend a few days there, and in aiding them
+to carry out the object they had in view.
+
+With these scientific aims were united others of a political nature, our
+Commodore having been honoured with H.I. Majesty's commands to enter into
+a commercial treaty with the free Republic of Chile. For this purpose
+Commodore von Wuellerstorf had gone to Santiago in company with the
+Austrian Consul-General, M. J. F. Flemmich, and the author of this
+narrative, the two geologists and the draughtsman of the Expedition having
+set out thither some days before.
+
+The journey to the capital of Chile is not among the most inviting. There
+are numerous crests of mountains (_questas_) to be crossed _en route_,
+which at many points are steep, not to speak of the bad construction of
+the roads, and the little care taken to keep them in order. Frequently the
+carriage rolls along the very verge of a profound abyss; the soil seems
+about to give way, gravel and stones plunge thundering down, while neither
+wall nor wooden railing intervenes to prevent the traveller from following
+them. Moreover, the vehicles in ordinary use are not calculated to
+diminish the perils of such a journey, especially if it is an object to
+arrive speedily at one's destination, when the regular national coach, the
+Birloche, as it is called, must be used. It is a sort of double-seated
+two-wheeled cabriolet drawn by two horses, while five or six horses trot
+alongside, which furnish the change of horses when required. The driver
+rides one of the horses, as in Havannah, and is wonderfully skilful in his
+way. He usually wears the national brown-covered _poncho_ (a quadrangular
+piece of cloth with an opening in the centre through which the head
+passes), a small straw hat, linen pants, and on his bare feet enormous,
+heavy spurs, sometimes fastened by a piece of leather, sometimes with a
+mere cord.
+
+We pushed forward without stoppage as far as Casa Blanca, one of the most
+ancient settlements of Chile, which, however, as previously remarked, has
+always preserved its village-like aspect. Here we fell in with several
+very handsome ladies, elegantly dressed, each sporting a gigantic
+crinoline. They had come from the neighbouring _haciendas_ to Casa Blanca
+to be present at a race-meeting. Having dispatched a hasty meal, we pushed
+busily forwards, and reached the village of Curacavi, where travellers to
+the capital usually pass the night. No great provision is made here in the
+shape of good inns, for considerable as is the traffic of loaded waggons,
+conveying merchandise and produce, the number of travellers is very
+limited, and even the few whom business or pleasure induces to visit the
+capital are for the most part natives of the country, or Europeans long
+resident, who usually take up their quarters with acquaintances or
+business connections, and are therefore exempt from all necessity to look
+after their comfort. Travellers who spend the night in such inns generally
+carry with them insect-powder, as the number of fleas and other
+troublesome insects is legion!!
+
+At the capital, Santiago, the traveller is somewhat better off as regards
+houses of entertainment, and the Hotel Ingles (English Hotel), kept by a
+Frenchman, may not only boast of elegant apartments and an excellent
+cuisine, but surpasses all European hotels in expensiveness.[105]
+
+Santiago de Chile lies in a beautiful fertile valley, and would present a
+much more imposing appearance, were it not that, owing to the frequency of
+earthquakes, the majority of the houses were built only one storey high.
+The long straight streets intersecting each other at right angles, are in
+a state calling loudly for sanitary regulation; uneven, badly ballasted,
+with huge ruts at the sides, so that it is difficult to say whether the
+foot-passenger or the charioteer is the worst off. Much of this is due to
+the number of heavy two-wheeled _carretas_ or country waggons, drawn by
+six or eight oxen, in which all produce is conveyed from the interior of
+the country to the harbour, and foreign merchandise transported from the
+sea-board to the capital. On our journey hither we counted 124 of these
+lumbering vehicles, creaking and rattling on their way; but there are on
+the average 300 such on the road between Santiago and Valparaiso. A good
+deal of the less bulky merchandise is also carried on horse or mule-back.
+
+Of striking public buildings Santiago is almost as destitute as
+Valparaiso, the Mint,[106] which dates from the time of Spanish Supremacy,
+being the sole building worth noticing. The city also boasts of a Plaza, a
+large quadrangular, open spot, of no special elegance, although it has on
+one side the Cathedral, still in process of erection, on the other a range
+of private dwellings with arcades beneath, in which nestle swarms of
+stall-vendors, besides several Government buildings which are concentrated
+here. Of public promenades, the Alameda, a long, wide poplar-alley, is,
+beyond all question, the finest, as well as most frequented, especially on
+Sundays and holidays. The period of our visit, the winter of the Southern
+Hemisphere was not favourable to our carrying away a correct impression of
+the public walks at their gayest, especially when, as in our case, the
+weather is raw and gloomy, and the mournful rustle of dead leaves sounds
+like the elegy of departed gaiety. Thus, for example, the dam along the
+sides of the river, the waters of which in the rainy season swell into a
+furious torrent, but the bed of which was now quite dry, forms in summer a
+delightful walk; whereas in winter it is only visited by students,
+preachers meditative of their next discourse, or lovers oblivious of the
+elements.
+
+There is in Santiago a surprising degree of intellectual activity, and
+great readiness in promoting scientific discovery. The philosophical
+works, which have of late years made their appearance, are deserving of
+the highest praise. The educated foreigner is not regarded askance here
+with envious eye, nor, because he happens not to be a native, kept in the
+back-ground, and refused admission to positions of public trust and
+influence; he is rather encouraged in his exertions by the example of such
+men as Domeyko, Philippi, Pissis, Moesta, &c. The well-known costly work
+in 24 volumes, describing the physical and political history of Chile, was
+composed by a Frenchman named Claudio Gay,[107] the expense of printing it
+in Paris being borne by the Government. The annals of the University of
+Chile appear in regular publication each year from 1843, and comprise
+choice though miscellaneous information upon almost every topic of
+scientific interest.
+
+One of the leading and most highly informed professors in this principal
+seat of education, Don Ignacio Domeyko, a Pole by birth, but who has made
+Chile his second home, very kindly acted as cicerone to our Expedition,
+and furnished us with most valuable details as to the present state of
+public instruction.
+
+The University of San Felipe was founded in 1738, but the present system
+of instruction has only been in operation since 1842. The joint Council of
+the five professors of the faculties of philosophy and the humanities,
+physical and mathematical science, medicine, judicial and political
+instruction and theology, are intrusted with the supervision of the entire
+national education, each faculty having also the privilege of naming
+corresponding members, and in other respects occupying the position of
+similar institutions in Europe. The President of the Republic is the chief
+patron. The amount expended by the State annually in public instruction,
+is upwards of L120,000, an enormous amount considering the small
+population.[108]
+
+The University is also charged with the custody of the national library of
+32,000 volumes, embracing works upon every subject of scientific
+inquiry,[109] and the museum of natural history, in which are very
+complete ethnographical and geological collections. The most remarkable
+object in the latter is undoubtedly the native stag, _Huemul_, or _Guamul_
+(_Cervus Chilensis_), which figures conspicuously on the Chilean
+escutcheon, and was long regarded as a fabulous animal, as it had never
+been seen alive. However, in the year 1833, the specimens (male and
+female) at present in the museum were shot in the Cordillera de Campania,
+within a short period of each other.[110]
+
+The observatory was in temporary quarters on an eminence in the midst of
+the city, but within a few years the new building would be completed,
+which was being constructed by Government for astronomical purposes,
+outside the town not far from the school of agriculture. The instruments
+in use were chiefly provided by the well-known North American traveller
+Gillis, who for many years carried on astronomical observations for the
+American Government in South America, especially in Chile, and when his
+labours were completed, left his instruments with the Chilean Government
+by way of indemnity. The management of the observatory is intrusted to
+Dr. Moesta, a German astronomer well-known in astronomical circles.
+
+The school of Technology (_Escuela de Artes y oficios_), founded in 1845
+by a French gentleman named Jariez, and, like the preceding, assisted by a
+grant from Government, has met with great support and success. In this
+eminently practical institution upwards of a hundred pupils are being
+taught the construction of machinery, and the various processes connected
+therewith, the children of poor parents having a preference. The pupils
+are boarded, lodged, and clothed gratuitously, and have therefore nothing
+to do but to remain four years in the establishment, after which they
+serve Government six years longer, assisting in the public works at a
+given remuneration, or if there should be no need for their services in
+the latter department, they are at liberty immediately on the expiry of
+their apprenticeship to follow what occupation they please. One young
+Chileno was pointed out to us who had risen from being a pupil to the
+position of foreman, and was now engaged in imparting instruction in
+drawing and mathematics.
+
+As important in its way as the Escuela de Artes, and equally useful in the
+interests of science and industry, is the _Quinta normal_ for the landed
+proprietary. This model farm, founded in 1851, and arranged upon the
+French system, is situated outside the town, and consists of a tolerably
+extensive plot of land, which includes within its limits the new
+observatory and the botanical gardens. The present director is a graduate
+of the Ecole Centrale of Paris, and his indefatigable activity speedily
+insured the prosperity of the undertaking. It is divided into two
+departments, a school of agriculture proper, and a veterinary college. The
+course, which comprises agriculture, botany, and treatment of diseases of
+animals, besides the elements of chemistry, physiology, geology, zoology,
+and geometry, besides geography and drawing, extends over three years,
+every pupil educated at the expense of the State being required to devote
+six years to the public service. Government has reserved to itself thirty
+free presentations, which it may increase to sixty.
+
+The small but well-arranged museum contains an admirably selected
+collection of the most important esculents and grasses suitable for
+foddering cattle, as also the conditions of soil which are best suited for
+growing these, besides a number of different fruits, executed in _papier
+mache_, with remarkable fidelity to nature, belonging to trees and plants,
+cultivated at the Institute, with the purpose of ultimately selling them
+at the proper time to farmers, and thus not only do justice to agriculture
+as a science, but increase its own revenue, not to speak of the benefits,
+direct and indirect, to the country at large. The purchaser is thus
+enabled to judge for himself what description of fruit will be likely to
+prove most remunerative to him, while the establishment at the same time
+realizes a considerable sum by this sale of seedlings, plants, and seeds,
+in a country where hitherto so little attention has been bestowed on
+high-class agriculture.
+
+The zealous and far-seeing director is also endeavouring to induce the
+Chilean landowner to grow turnips, and other tubers, which might be used
+for foddering the cattle in winter, and so lead to a more economical
+system of cultivation, and consequent improvement of the race of farmers
+themselves. At present, where this kind of farming is utterly unknown, as
+soon as winter sets in, many a landowner finds himself compelled, year
+after year, to sell or kill his cattle owing to want of fodder, while he
+himself goes out as a day labourer, till the return of spring. The
+introduction and extension of such a system, which would enable him to
+maintain his herds and flocks all the year round, would put a stop to his
+present unsettled mode of life, improve his farm, and impart increased
+comfort and security to every relation of his business.
+
+At this _Escuela normal_ we likewise found the sorgho, or Chinese
+sugar-cane, in course of cultivation with great success. Though the
+temperature is occasionally so low in Santiago as to form, during the
+winter, ice[111] about two lines in thickness, the sorgho does not seem to
+suffer any damage, but gives its three crops each year, besides being much
+used for fodder. The first seeds of this species of grass, which has
+within four years made the circuit of the globe, and is now profitably
+cultivated in almost every part of the world, were imported into Chile
+from the free States of North America.
+
+Professor Domeyko, who possesses a most admirable geological and
+mineralogical collection, presented the Expedition with a choice selection
+of interesting and costly ores from the copper, silver, cobalt, and
+quicksilver mines of the country; and although the rich stores of
+publications and geological specimens with which the director of the
+Geological Institution of the Austrian Empire, Counsellor Haidinger, had
+provided for the purpose to present them to scientific institutions in the
+different foreign countries visited, was already exhausted and done away
+with, yet we had at least the satisfaction of learning that the Imperial
+Institute of Geology,[112] whose eminent director has extended throughout
+the world the renown of Austria, as a pioneer of geology, maintains
+already an active correspondence with the managers of the museum of the
+Chilean Republic.
+
+Very soon after our arrival at Santiago, our Commodore was honoured with a
+special audience by the President of the Republic, H.E. Don Manuel Montt.
+The Commodore was accompanied by the Austrian Consul-general and the
+author of this narrative. The reception came off in a plain but
+elegantly-furnished apartment of the palace-like Government House, the
+style of which is quite modern. Don Manuel Montt, a short, under-sized
+gentleman, with dark strongly-marked features, and straight, somewhat
+bristly, hair, had during the recent troubles displayed more courage and
+energy than his external appearance would have led one to expect, and used
+his dictatorial authority with such discretion and prudence, as to excite
+the astonishment and respect of all well-wishers of his native land. He
+was attended at the interview by the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Don
+Jeronimo Urmeneta, a man of frank, attractive manners, whose youth was
+spent in the United States, and who speaks English fluently.
+
+The conversation turned chiefly upon the proposed commercial and
+navigation treaty projected by the Imperial Government, a sketch of which
+in the Spanish language was read over to the President by the Commodore.
+Don Manuel (as the highest authority in the free State of Chile was called
+by the people) expressed the utmost readiness to carry out this
+arrangement, and repeatedly avowed his wish to enter into intimate
+relations with the Austrian Government, and execute all necessary papers,
+which could assist an object fraught with such benefits to both nations.
+He also spoke of the desirability of endeavouring to increase the
+intercourse between the scientific institutes of Chile and Austria, and in
+token of the interest he took in the objects of the Expedition, presented
+a copy of Gay's splendid work, as also an extensive collection of all the
+historical and statistical papers illustrative of Chilean history during
+the last ten years.
+
+The hope indulged by the Commodore of being able to get the preliminaries
+of the Treaty signed before our departure, were unfortunately frustrated
+by the serious political events which then entirely occupied the attention
+of the various members of Government. It was necessary by moderate
+measures and an energetic policy to crush out the Revolution, which had
+broken out about two months prior to our arrival, before it had attained
+uncontrollable dimensions. The insurgents in this case were not vehement
+hot-headed Republicans, desirous of further liberty, but reactionary
+Ultramontanes (of whom there always are some, even in a Republic), who
+wished to overthrow the existing Liberal Government, and substitute in its
+place a more flexible cabinet, more dependent upon party tactics. The
+dread lest the insurrection should spread till it resulted in civil war,
+which would throw back for years the prosperity of the country, proved to
+be well-grounded. For several of the most prominent and distinguished
+citizens of Chile, as also the clerical party always so powerful in
+Spanish American colonies, had united with the insurgents, whose youthful
+and ardent leader, Don Pedro Gallo, belonged to one of the wealthiest and
+most influential families in Chile. He had already assumed a threatening
+attitude in the northern provinces, where his family was held in high
+consideration, and had cut off all communication with the mining city of
+Copiapo. His mother, a lady some sixty years of age, harangued her son's
+troops from the balcony of her house, and repeatedly excited her auditory
+by shrieking out the thrilling assurance, that "she would sacrifice her
+last farthing would it but ensure the downfall of the existing Government,
+and the return to power of the party of the _Peluqueros_" (literally
+wig-makers, or Whigs, who in Chile are regarded as adherents of the
+Conservative, or rather reactionary party).
+
+Of the immense sums which ambition and party rancour are willing to
+sacrifice in Chile, some idea may be formed from the fact that the Gallo
+family, at the commencement of the insurrection, engaged to devote their
+whole fortune, estimated at more than L600,000, in promoting the aims of
+the revolutionists. Fortunately for the pecuniary interests both of the
+family and the State, it was nipped in the bud, before any enormous
+expenses had been incurred, although it must be confessed that also in
+Chile making war is a most costly pastime. The Intendant of Valparaiso,
+Don Joaquim Novoa, informed us that the cost of maintaining the
+highly-paid Chilean army, which does not number above 8000 men, amounts to
+500,000 dollars (L100,000) A WEEK!!! considerably more, proportionally,
+than four times the estimated cost of the highly-trained British army.
+
+Our evenings in Santiago were usually spent in private circles, and we
+found ourselves in no small degree astonished at the elegance and luxury
+which were visible, both in the fitting up of the reception-rooms and the
+toilettes of the guests. It is true, we associated with the wealthiest
+and most distinguished families in the country, but we had not expected to
+find the subdued but exquisite French taste so universally prevalent. The
+external aspect of the houses of the Chilean patricians is rather massive
+than elegant. The heavy iron grating which surrounds the wide lofty
+windows leave a disagreeable gloomy impression. The large quadrangular
+court, or Patio, enclosed by the bed-chambers, and which is common to
+every Spanish American house from Chile to Mexico, is intended less for
+the passage of air and light to the various apartments than as a place to
+fly to in case of an earthquake (which, however, within the last 20 years
+were of rare occurrence in Chile and of no great importance), whence it
+would be easy to escape. Usually the reception-room has no cost or pains
+spared to embellish it; every object or article of furniture in it being
+designed to produce a certain effect. The expense and risk attending the
+transport of a large mirror or pianoforte, or other article of similar
+value, from the factory at Paris to its destination in Chile, is enough to
+make the visitor open his eyes with amazement at beholding them there!
+
+Conversation, which, owing to the limited information of the ladies,
+usually turns in South American drawing-rooms upon the most common-place
+subjects, is marked in Chile by all the interest and vivacity consequent
+on the important influence exercised by the fair sex over the politics of
+the country, which prefers debating important political events to idle
+chatter and ordinary talk.
+
+Even more agreeable than the evenings we spent among the patrician circles
+of Santiago, were those which we passed with an Austrian gentleman, Dr.
+Herzl, settled here some ten years, and with some German-Spanish families.
+Here everlasting politics, or rather party squabbles, had not, as in the
+native _salons_, banished music and song, the latter being cherished as a
+means of rising out of the hurly-burly, and keeping the annoyances of
+public life, for the moment at least, at arm's length.
+
+In Chilean salons nothing was talked but politics; here the bent of
+conversation was towards literature and art, and, climax of the evening,
+the beloved melodies of our native land. Madame Z----, a native of Madrid,
+a second time married to a German, is a downright musical prodigy. In her
+youth she had studied at the _Conservatoire_ in Paris in company with
+Madame Malibran, and although now 54, and the mother of 16 children, she
+still entrances by her clear ringing voice, and the charm of her
+exquisitely appreciative intonation.
+
+The chief engineer and director of the southern railway (Ferro Carril del
+Sur), a North American gentleman named Evans, a graduate of West Point,
+had the kindness to invite some members of the Expedition to visit the
+Maipu Bridge, distant some 17 miles from Santiago, and accompanied them in
+person on their excursion to this the most interesting engineering work of
+the line. We set off at 1 P.M. by one of the ordinary trains. The road is
+intended to unite Santiago with the very productive district of Talca, a
+distance of 180 miles, and is destined to exercise a most beneficial
+influence in improving the position of the peasantry.
+
+The drive through the valley of Santiago is exceedingly interesting, as
+the line keeps close beneath the Cordillera through nearly its entire
+length, thus revealing to the gaze of the astonished traveller a
+succession of Alpine landscapes, such as one might behold in crossing the
+Semmering Alp. The ordinary rate of travelling in Chile is 25 miles an
+hour, but the expresses occasionally run at the rate of 60 miles per hour.
+As the splendid pastures on either side are grazed by innumerable herds,
+some of which were constantly straying upon the line, the item for injury
+done to cattle used to assume serious proportions, owing to the negligence
+of the drivers, till the directors, under the advice of Mr. Evans, offered
+a premium of 30 dollars a quarter to any engine driver who should during
+that space avoid killing any of the cattle: a singular regulation, but
+which put a stop to the evil. The line is solidly constructed, but very
+simply equipped, the waiting-rooms at the different stations being
+entirely deficient in that luxury which the traveller is accustomed to on
+first-rate European lines. But it tells in favour of the dividend.[113]
+
+The splendid and substantially-built iron bridge thrown over the Maipu
+here, 1500 feet wide, at an elevation of 1822 feet above the level of the
+sea, was like everything used on the line, with the exception of the wood,
+imported from North America. Of the difficulty and expense attending
+land-transport in Chile, some idea may be formed from the fact that the
+freightage of one ton of goods from New York to Valparaiso, 10,000 miles
+by sea, is but L1 1_s._, whereas the conveyance of the same quantity from
+Santiago to Valparaiso, only 100 miles, costs L7 7_s._!!
+
+Although evening surprised us ere we returned to Santiago from Maipu, and
+a dense mist hung over the landscape quite precluding all views for the
+greatest part of the road, we were so fortunate, shortly before our
+arrival at the city, as to be favoured with a glimpse of the majestic
+range of the Cordillera, lit up by the declining rays of the sun, a
+spectacle resembling the sunset splendours of the Alps in Switzerland; but
+the novelty of the details of which, coupled with its suddenness and
+brevity of duration, greatly deepened the impression of awe and admiration
+with which we regarded it.
+
+At noon of the 30th of April we set out on our return to Valparaiso. On
+this occasion we availed ourselves of a different kind of vehicle, an
+American mail-coach as it is termed, from its having been first organized
+by a North American, which admitted of our seeing a different range of
+country. In this journey we were fortunate enough to be accompanied by Mr.
+James Volckmann, a young German gentleman, who is an active colleague of
+the renowned geologist, Mr. Pissis, and has already himself contributed
+many valuable additions to our acquaintance with the geology of Chile. The
+coach stopping at Melepilla, the next station, a neat little town nestling
+on a level surface at the foot of a lovely valley, whence it was to
+proceed the following morning to the port, we took advantage of the
+opportunity to pay an _impromptu_ visit to a Chilean family in the
+neighbourhood, to which we had introduction. We rode out accordingly to
+the _hacienda_ of Las Esmeraldas, about two miles distant from Melepilla,
+where we were received like old friends of the hospitable family Lecaros.
+Most of the wealthy landowners of the country pass only a few months of
+each year in their splendid houses at Valparaiso or Santiago, and spend
+the rest of their time in affluent retirement upon their properties. The
+small, externally unsightly, mansion was furnished within with all that
+could minister to that genuine English notion of COMFORT; and the ladies,
+though the hour was so late that they could scarcely have expected any
+further visitors, received us in full Parisian toilette. This surprised us
+the more, inasmuch as the national costume is very much more graceful than
+that of Europe,--even an elderly female, dressed in sombre-hued silk, and
+with a long black coif around the head, the left ribbon of which is turned
+over the right shoulder, having quite a unique, piquant, and attractive
+appearance.
+
+Even here the conversation took a political tone, and it speedily came to
+light that the stay of the ladies at Las Esmeraldas at the present
+inclement season was attributable less to any admiration of the beauties
+of nature than to some political disagreement; for the Chilean ladies,
+like all their sex of the Latin stock, delight in political
+demonstrations. However, they are mainly taken up with keeping the
+Ultramontane element, the influence of which is everywhere apparent,
+within the limits assigned it by the Constitution itself. The head of the
+family, Don Jose Antonio Lecaro, an excellent energetic old gentleman,
+told us a great deal about his property, of the improvements he had made
+and was still projecting, and we regretted that the advanced hour
+prevented our examining this well-managed _hacienda_, which is so large
+that the pasturage can maintain several thousand horned cattle and horses.
+Nevertheless, so far as regards numbers of farm-animals, it is probable
+that the proprietor of Las Esmeraldas is very far from being among the
+most extensive land-holders of Chile.
+
+In the evening we adjourned to the elegant drawing-room, where time flew
+away in the most delightful manner with music and singing; the music,
+chiefly German, being selected, if we were not mistaken, quite as much
+through genuine appreciation of the great _maestros_ whose works were
+chosen, as to do honour to the nationality of the guests.
+
+During the night we returned on horseback to Melepilla, and the following
+morning, 1st May, 1859, continued our journey to Valparaiso, where we
+arrived about four P.M., full of the most delightful and varied memories
+of our trip.
+
+When we reached Valparaiso the frigate was ready to sail, but her
+departure was delayed, as our Commodore resolved to await the arrival of
+the next European mail, in case he should receive further instructions as
+to his route. In every social circle at this place, men hoped against hope
+that a European Congress would be convoked, which should devise a peaceful
+solution of existing differences. If, however, there was to be war, then
+amongst all, especially the Germans resident here, it was a foregone
+conclusion that Germany ought to make common cause with Austria. The
+disappointment was not long waited for--* * * *!
+
+The uncertainty of our stay did not admit of any more excursions being
+made to a distance, and the naturalists accordingly redoubled their
+activity in searching for subjects in the environs of the town. The
+Directors of the railroad from Valparaiso to Santiago, which, however, is
+as yet only completed as far as the little village of Guillota, were so
+kind as to invite the members of the Expedition to make free use of their
+line, and the chief engineer, Mr. Lloyd, had also issued instructions to
+the various station-masters to give all manner of facilities to the
+foreign guests, and assist them in their collections to the utmost of
+their power. Unfortunately we found no time to avail ourselves of this
+very friendly invitation, and thus had to forego an excellent opportunity
+for examining the line itself, and studying its interesting geological
+features.
+
+We succeeded once in getting as far as Guillota, the Spa of Chile. This
+portion of the road, 30 miles in length, is much travelled over, the fares
+being 1, 2, and 3 dollars according to class, and the monthly receipts
+amount to from 20,000 to 25,000 dollars (L4200 to L5250).
+
+The little village of Guillota, lying in a valley laid out in orchards and
+vineyards, is of enormous extent; the _Calle larga_, or Long Street, being
+six English miles in length. The houses are usually one storey, very plain
+and unpretending but scrupulously clean. The stranger who wanders though
+Guillota, and becomes sensible of the filth and dust in the streets, and
+the entire absence of comfort within-doors, is apt to puzzle himself how
+the place came to be selected for a summer resort of the fashionable
+world, as indeed he may marvel how the Spanish navigators, to whom
+Valparaiso is indebted for its name, contrived to associate the idea of
+the Vale of Paradise with its sandy hills and glades bare of vegetation.
+Possibly the summer guests, who flock hither from October to March, may be
+sufficiently enthusiastic in their admiration of natural scenery, to feel
+themselves indemnified for discomfort within-doors by the charm of the
+surrounding landscape. The environs are exceedingly beautiful, the valley
+abounds in luxuriant vegetation and beautiful distant prospects, and from
+the little hill of Manaca, 150 to 200 feet in height, on the summit of
+which a large wooden cross was set up by missionary preachers in 1849,
+there is stretched at the feet of the beholder a magnificent picture of
+unrivalled interest and beauty, especially when the sun is near his
+setting, and lights up the magnificent peaks, from 3000 to 4000 feet in
+height, called, from their form resembling that of a bell, Campana and
+Campanita. More probably, however, the visitors from the port are at that
+hour busily employed at the "green tables," where, at faro and roulette,
+enormous sums are frequently lost and won.
+
+One marked peculiarity, which it is impossible to avoid noticing, is the
+vast disproportion here between the sexes. One hardly ever sees any but
+ladies in the streets, or sitting elegantly attired on low stools in front
+of the open door, their hands busy with their work, their eyes watching
+the passers-by. The numerous hard-working male population is much more
+profitably employed in working at the city, rather than staying at home
+engaged in agriculture; whence it results that at Guillota, just as in
+some European fishing villages along our sea-coasts, the male portion of
+the household are often absent for weeks together, and the little hamlet
+has the appearance of being the head-quarters of a tribe of Amazons.
+
+From Guillota we went on to a large hacienda, about nine miles further,
+called La Calera, the property of a native of Bolivia. Part of this is
+planted with almond trees, but by far the larger portion is devoted to
+wine-growing. One of the _Mandadores_, or overseers; begged us to enter a
+large, handsome building where the process of wine-preparing was being
+carried on, and gave us some new wine, here called _Chicha_(pronounced
+Tchitcha), which tasted very sweet and palatable. The Chicha is used in
+enormous quantities in Chile, and is even sent abroad in large
+bottle-shaped skins, but, owing to this mode of keeping it, the wine,
+which is set down much as cider is in Normandy, acquires a villanous twang
+that is anything but agreeable.
+
+In Valparaiso we were so fortunate as to fall in with Mr. Kindermann, one
+of the founders of the German settlement of Valdivia, who has been long
+resident there, and has large landed property in that direction. We also
+made the acquaintance of Dr. Philippi, who, although attending to his
+duties as Professor of Natural History in the University of Santiago,
+finds time to take an active part in the colony of Valdivia. It would
+appear from the inquiries instituted by competent persons, that the main
+obstacle to the permanent success and extension of the German colony
+consists in the want of roads, and that the fertility of the soil
+justifies the most sanguine hopes, so soon as more ready means of
+communication are provided, that the numerous products raised by this
+industrious community will no longer want either a steady market or
+extensive buyers.
+
+Another German colony, which was organized with extensive privileges
+established at Punta Arenas in Magelhaen's Straits, and now numbers some
+150 colonists, not only displays the most cheering signs of vitality, and
+that in a climate which has acquired, most unjustly however, an unenviable
+reputation, but promises to be of great importance both to Chile itself
+and to the vessels of all nations navigating the Straits of
+Magelhaen[114]. This will be more particularly the case, so soon as the
+scheme projected by certain Chilean patriots is realized, of which there
+is an early prospect, of placing a number of steamers upon the
+Magelhaen-Straits' line, for the purpose of towing vessels through.
+
+In order to form an adequate conception of the importance of this
+undertaking, both for Chile and all seafaring nations, it must be borne in
+mind, that by thus making the Straits available, vessels will not alone
+escape the storms of Cape Horn, but will effect a great saving in time.
+Maury estimates the time required by a vessel to pass from the eastern
+entrance of the Straits around Cape Horn to the western entrance at 25
+days. They could be towed through in from four to five days, thus saving
+some 20 days. The tonnage passing round Cape Horn to Valparaiso alone
+cannot be much short of 120,000 tons of merchandise, valued at about
+16,000,000 dollars (L3,200,000), so that the pecuniary returns realized by
+the saving of time in the voyages of these vessels promises to realize to
+the company a net profit of 257,776 dollars (L53,600)[115].
+
+Of course the estimate will become very much larger, if all the sailing
+vessels be included which pass annually round the Horn from E. to W.,
+amounting to some 500 in number, with a tonnage of 400,000, and cargoes
+valued at 53,000,000 dollars (L11,000,000). The projectors also propose to
+erect a lighthouse and telegraph station, both at Cape Virgin on the East,
+and Cape Pilar at the Western entrance, as also in Possession Bay, 40
+miles W. of Virgin's Cape, at the Eastern entrance, and to have the depot
+buildings for the requisite materials at the entrance of Smythe Channel,
+35 miles east of Cape Pilar. Four or five steamers of at least 500 tons
+are to perform the towing service, for which they propose to charge
+sailing vessels 1.50 dollars (6s. 3_d._) per ton, less, in fact, than the
+charge for towing in China, Australia, &c.
+
+The carrying out of this scheme, which must exercise an incalculable
+influence on the commerce of the Pacific slope of the Indies, is mainly
+dependent on the disposition of the Chilean Government to guarantee a
+given interest, and accord certain facilities to the company which is to
+undertake so important and heavy an enterprise. Its requirements are by no
+means extravagant. During a period of fifteen years, it asks for an annual
+subvention of 125,000 dollars, for the first five years,[116] during the
+next five years of 100,000 dollars, and in the last five years 75,000
+dollars, after which all aid from the State is to be withdrawn. Further,
+the company seeks to be secured in the exclusive right during those
+fifteen years of working the coal-fields,[117] which are known to exist in
+the Straits, to be presented free of expense with the land required for
+the various buildings and stations, and, lastly, permission to fell wood
+all along Magelhaen's Straits, and in the divergent bays, gulfs, and
+channels, but on the condition that one half of the soil so reclaimed
+shall remain the property of the State, the other half to remain in
+perpetuity the property of the adventurers. From the day on which this
+project is ushered into existence by the munificence and under the
+auspices of the Chilean Government, a new era will commence for the
+shipping interest along the west coast of South America! The difficulty is
+in securing a monopoly of the Straits. At present any captain may run the
+Straits if he will, and this is occasionally done. An English man-of-war
+passed through in the spring of 1862.
+
+At last, on 8th May, the European mail came in, but failed to bring the
+letters we expected, giving us instead only news of several months back,
+our bag having been sent to Lima instead of Valparaiso. However, the news
+received direct from Europe left no doubt that a war was imminent between
+France and Austria, and this circumstance at once determined our
+commander, like a true patriot, to return immediately home, so as to make
+his own services as well as those of his subordinates available in
+protecting our native land from the dangers impending over it. The
+original plan of sailing to Lima, and thence, after visiting the
+Galipagos, to Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, was under the prevailing
+circumstances totally abandoned. In a few days more the vessel was to sail
+for Gibraltar direct round Cape Horn.
+
+As this decision involved a sea-voyage of some 10,000 miles, which must
+naturally be almost barren of ethnographic or statistical interest, and as
+the arrival of the _Novara_ at Gibraltar could scarcely be expected under
+from 80 to 90 days, the author of this narrative requested permission of
+the commander of the Expedition to devote the time required for the
+frigate to make her voyage, in prosecuting a journey overland to Lima and
+Panama, with the intention of catching at Aspinwall the next British royal
+mail steamer to Europe, and thus again fall in with the _Novara_ at
+Gibraltar about the beginning of August. The paramount motive for this
+proposal was the wish expressed to dedicate all this time to visit Lima,
+Panama, and the intermediate ports, and thus to forward to the utmost the
+objects of the Imperial Expedition, even when it was in fact homeward
+bound. It was also his intention to institute certain inquiries while
+residing in the capital of Peru, respecting the actual condition of those
+Tyrolese families, who, misled by alluring prospects of all sorts, had
+resolved on emigrating to Peru in 1851, and had since then sunk into a
+most wretched state, according to indirect accounts received of their
+unhappy case. Commodore Wuellerstorf, always ready to assist, whenever it
+is in his power, in promoting and advancing scientific aims, at once
+acceded to this request, conceiving that it was a deviation quite within
+the scope of his instructions for the Expedition, and compatible with the
+objects aimed at by its illustrious projector.
+
+Before the departure of the _Novara_, the Austrian Consul-General gave a
+splendid entertainment. This had been repeatedly postponed, as, under
+existing circumstances, it was not certain whether Chilean society could
+well be present. The intelligence, however, which a few days previous had
+been received from the Northern provinces as to the attitude of
+Government, the suppression of the insurrection, and the flight of the
+leaders, had produced a vehement reaction in the public mind, and, at
+least among governmental circles, had given hope of a happy solution.
+
+Accordingly the ball came off, and very gay it was. The spacious and
+elegant residence of M. Flemmich (the head of the distinguished English
+firm of Huth, Gruening, & Co.) was richly adorned with flowers in every
+apartment, and the whole brilliantly lit up, while a bevy of graceful
+ladies swept through the salons, whose natural charms were enhanced by
+their agreeable geniality, not less than by an elegance of toilette such
+as Parisian salons themselves could not have surpassed.
+
+A few days before the _Novara_ sailed, a merchantman dropped anchor in the
+roads, which on her voyage from Melbourne to Europe had, while running 11
+miles an hour, come into collision with an iceberg in 60 deg. S. and 149 deg. E.,
+by which she had lost bowsprit, foremast, and all her topmasts, besides
+carrying away her cutwater and figurehead, and damaging the hull, and, sad
+to relate, sacrificing the lives of sixteen persons! The spectacle
+presented by this mere ruin of a ship, as she ran in half dismasted under
+jury-rig, created profound emotion even among the seafaring portion of the
+community, which was still further deepened, when the full particulars of
+their sufferings were detailed by the passengers. The captain, fully
+expecting that a ship so seriously damaged must go to the bottom, formed
+the unworthy resolution of escaping in a boat with fifteen of the men. The
+whole perished, it is supposed, as nothing was ever heard of them, while
+the vessel, which owed her truly marvellous preservation to the fact that,
+having struck stem on, she had sprung no leak, though so terribly injured,
+was enabled to pursue her voyage to Valparaiso, where she arrived, the
+wind proving favourable, after a passage of 55 days.
+
+On the 11th May all was ready for the departure of the _Novara_, and the
+officer on duty only waited a favourable breeze to weigh anchor and set
+sail. Unfortunately, however, none such sprung up, and when towards 7 A.M.
+a gentle breeze at last rippled the water, it did not last long enough to
+enable the vessel to clear the roads. The captain of H.M.S. _Ganges_ (80),
+who, as also Admiral Baines, the venerable Commander-in-chief of the
+British naval forces on the Pacific station, had already in a variety of
+ways cordially cooperated with and aided the Austrian Expedition, sent
+some of his boats to tow the frigate out of the roads, in which the French
+corvette _Constantine_, which had arrived the day before, politely
+assisted. Thus towed along by no less than 14 boats, the _Novara_
+succeeded in getting into the open ocean. Favoured with a gentle breeze
+from the northward, she was soon able to lie her course, and towards
+evening, when a rather fresh S.W. sprang up, she was rapidly leaving the
+hospitable shores of Chile.
+
+The Commodore thought it advisable to make an offing of from 100 to 200
+miles parallel with the coast, and to keep increasing his distance even
+against contrary winds, so as to permit of his rounding Terra del Fuego,
+running free before the S.W. winds, prevalent at that season off the Horn.
+
+The weather was from time to time heavy and unfavourable, besides being
+cold and rainy, but on the whole it was a very fair passage for the winter
+season. But few observations could be got, though there were enough to
+admit of keeping the ship on her course. Only once did it happen that no
+observations could be got for several days, till, during the night of
+23rd May the sky suddenly cleared. No sooner, however, had the officer of
+the watch selected a star by which to calculate his position, than he
+found himself involved in no small perplexity. The Southern Cross and
+Centaur were close to the zenith, and when the seamen directed their
+wondering gaze to the magnificent aspect presented by the southern stellar
+hemisphere, they could with difficulty recognize the old familiar European
+constellations as they now shone forth along the northern horizon, with
+sadly diminished brilliancy.
+
+The further south the _Novara_ ran, the more melancholy grew the aspect
+both of the sun and the moon. Fog, clouds, and rain obscured a great
+proportion of the feeble light left, and although the clearness of the
+night occasionally made some compensation, yet to sailors long accustomed
+to the warm, smiling tropical skies, they seemed doubly cold and gloomy.
+
+The frigate rolled heavily, her oscillations increasing the general
+discomfort, although the fetch of ocean was less than off the Cape of Good
+Hope. Impelled by favourable winds, the good ship rapidly neared the
+southernmost point of her voyage, and every one on board watched with
+ever-increasing interest the alterations in the natural phenomena of these
+inhospitable latitudes.
+
+Several days were lost in calms and easterly winds, and partly to catch
+the southerly breezes which might drive her N.E. into the zone of constant
+winds, partly for the purpose of scientific investigation, the vessel was
+carried as far south as the parallel of 60 deg.
+
+On 28th May, the thermometer was observed to indicate a strongly-marked
+and speedy decline in the temperature of the water, whence it was
+conjectured that polar winds would be found following the course of the
+cold current, or else that icebergs were near. The ship's head was now
+laid for Terra del Fuego, the wind blowing very gently from the N.E., but
+a S. wind springing up later, she began to work merrily along. Of several
+ships which for some days had been in sight, steering the same course as
+the frigate, none had ventured so far south; they now were all left
+behind, having lost way by over-caution. Among these was the French
+corvette _Eurydice_, which left Valparaiso Roads two days before the
+_Novara_, and was overhauled on the 29th May.
+
+With the polar wind snow fell during the night; and when day broke, about
+9 A.M., the singular spectacle was presented of a ship all in
+white,--white masts, white yards, white cannon. This appearance was
+repeated the two following days only, but the weather remained for a much
+longer period cold and disagreeable. The lowest reading, however, of the
+thermometer only indicated 3 deg. Celsius below freezing (26 deg.6 Fahr.).
+
+On 29th May, about noon, the _Novara_ crossed the meridian of Cape Horn,
+and was once more in the Atlantic Ocean. Notwithstanding the uncertain
+conditions of wind and weather, a variety of interesting observations
+were made during the passage of the ship round Cape Horn, and numbers of
+valuable results obtained for the benefit of navigators in those high
+latitudes. Thus, for example, the fallacy was established of the assertion
+of certain navigators that "the fluctuations of the barometer off Cape
+Horn did not depend on the state of wind and weather." In like manner by
+ascertaining the mean of a variety of collated data, it was found that the
+temperature of the surface of the ocean demands the most careful
+attention, inasmuch as the alterations in it from hour to hour may be
+relied on to indicate corresponding changes in the wind and weather.
+
+The low reading of the barometer off the Horn seems to be a sort of
+compensation for the great pressure of the air in what are known to seamen
+as "the Horse latitudes," and, in point of fact, the barometrical readings
+at 56 deg. S. betray a drooping tendency, which corresponds with the movements
+of the sun, as the latter also does with that of the zone of greatest
+atmospheric pressure. Hence it is obvious that from this parallel the
+atmospheric pressure will increase as we advance to the Pole, and this law
+is farther confirmed by the prevailing winds further south. Hence, while
+we find north-west or strong west winds blowing off Cape Horn, at the
+South Shetland Islands, still further south, the prevailing winds are N.E.
+or E., thus producing contrary atmospheric currents, almost resembling
+chronic whirlwinds, and consequently that both north and south of the
+central zone, the barometer will be found to indicate a greater
+atmospheric pressure.
+
+For this reason vessels intending to round the Horn from E. to W. usually
+keep further to the south than those sailing in the opposite direction. On
+the other hand, during the winter season of the southern hemisphere, the
+east wind must blow more frequently at the Cape itself, in consequence of
+the influence exercised by the zone of least atmospheric pressure, and the
+weather be less likely to prove stormy. And such is found in fact to be
+the case.
+
+Hitherto, with the exception of Cape Horn, so few observations have been
+made in high southern latitudes, that it is impossible to arrive at any
+definite conclusion, important as the subject is to science as well as in
+the interests of commerce, and which must exercise so much influence upon
+the whole system of atmospheric changes over the entire surface of the
+earth. To attain this object, an expedition consisting of but one ship
+cannot suffice. It would be necessary to employ several, each provided
+with instruments carefully compared, and which should sail simultaneously
+to the southern waters at definite distances from each other, and at given
+times make precisely similar observations and devote their entire
+attention to investigating the laws which regulate this puzzle to the
+scientific student.
+
+Under more favourable political auspices, a joint expedition by the
+various naval powers would be the best means of solving the problem, and a
+fleet of some ten or twelve ships commencing upon a definite plan, might
+obtain results such as might hand down the scientific renown of our age
+and century to all future generations.
+
+While sailing in these southern latitudes, the Commodore hit upon the idea
+of ascertaining the increase of gravity as the poles were approached, by
+the comparison of simultaneous observations taken with the mercurial and
+Aneroid barometers. Both instruments, in fact, gave a regular rule for
+calculating the weight of the atmosphere at the points of observation,
+with this single difference, that the ordinary barometer gives the weight
+by the pressure of the air upon a column of mercury, representing the
+weight of a similar column of air; while in the Aneroid barometer, the
+weight of the atmosphere is measured by an exhausted receiver, which, in
+resisting this pressure, indicates the amount by the tension of a spring.
+
+The indications of the Aneroid are moreover independent of the influence
+of universal gravity and the disturbing conditions it introduces into the
+instrument, to which the column of mercury is of course subject. Assuming,
+for example, that the ordinary barometer and the Aneroid gave the same
+readings, the similarity will no longer exist at a given distance from the
+Equator--the Aneroid, owing to the elimination of the disturbing element
+of gravity, indicating an increased pressure of the column of air, whereas
+the ordinary barometer will continue to indicate the same pressure as at
+the Equator. The difference between the two readings will, however, be
+directly proportionate to the amount of gravity thus got rid of, and is
+consequently susceptible of calculation. Although the data collected
+during the voyage for widely different purposes, and those now collected
+by means of the Aneroid, do not realize the anticipations that had been
+formed, to the length of utmost precision, the result has shown that much
+may be achieved in this direction by observations easily made in the
+course of a voyage even by ordinary navigators, such as would greatly
+benefit science; and captains of all grades, who in the course of their
+voyages have occasion to traverse these special latitudes, and are able to
+use good, reliable, thoroughly-tested instruments, might by a series of
+such observations add materially to our acquaintance with physical
+phenomena.[118]
+
+The _Novara_ sailed into the Atlantic with fair strong winds, and on 1st
+June was about the latitude of the Falklands,[119] that interesting group
+of islands, which have belonged to England since 1842. The few colonists
+at present resident there, not exceeding some hundreds in all, are
+maintained here at the expense of the British Government, and trade in
+skins and salt provisions. However, the annual cost of keeping up the
+colony does not amount to above L5000. Should the project of cutting a
+canal across the Isthmus of Central America, which has been the dream of
+centuries, ever be realized, the Falklands will become one of the most
+solitary spots on the face of the globe, owing to the entire abandonment
+of the route round Cape Horn, and as such would become admirably adapted
+for a penal colony. Judging, however, from the information respecting the
+southern parts of South America furnished by Admiral Fitzroy, so well
+known in connection with meteorological science, the eastern side of Terra
+del Fuego presents much greater advantages for such a project, and we
+cannot but feel surprised that England has not already founded an
+establishment there, where so many advantages are obvious at a glance,
+especially those relating to navigation.
+
+From the Falkland latitude, the _Novara_ steered nearly a great circle
+course, or, in other words, followed the shortest line of distance, to the
+point where she must pass through the "Horse latitudes," about 25 deg. W. of
+Greenwich, and with favourable west winds, sometimes rather stormy, sped
+along at from 200 to 250 knots per diem on her homeward voyage. On 5th
+June, about 9 P.M., a sudden squall from W.N.W. struck the ship about the
+latitude of the most northerly part of Patagonia, so violent that had not
+the sails been taken in with all despatch, the very masts must have been
+blown out of the vessel, or at all events have sustained serious injury.
+Notwithstanding her being short of upper sails, the frigate heeled over
+more at this time than at any other period throughout the voyage.
+
+On 7th and 8th June, the _Novara_ encountered a severe tornado, about the
+latitude of the mouth of the La Plata. A violent wind, which blew from the
+N.N.E., on the 7th, hauled round by N. and N.N.W. to W.S.W., and reached
+its greatest power on the 8th, about 9 A.M., the wind being N.W. At this
+moment the motion of the ship was so great, and she laboured so heavily in
+the high short waves, that the boats on her lee quarter were in imminent
+danger of being swept overboard. By observations made it was found that
+she heeled over 38 deg. to starboard and 12 deg. to port, so that the entire
+amount of oscillation was 50 deg.
+
+Unfortunately one of the barometers got broke on this occasion; the
+officer, while observing it, being precipitated against it by a sudden
+roll of the ship. It was the most trustworthy instrument on board, and,
+albeit near the end of the voyage, it was not the less vexatious to have
+the series of admirable observations made with this instrument suddenly
+interrupted.
+
+The 11th June possessed an interest of its own for those on board the
+_Novara_, as on that day she crossed the course which she had followed
+two years before, in sailing from Rio to the Cape of Good Hope. Thus the
+actual circumnavigation had been successfully completed, and at least the
+material portion of the undertaking happily achieved.
+
+Meanwhile the wind, though still always favourable, had abated greatly
+from its first strength, and each day saw the barometer steadily rising.
+Even the sea-birds, those constant attendants of vessels, so long as they
+are in the extra-tropical latitudes of the Southern Ocean, now gradually
+began to cease flitting around the ship, as she approached the hot zones.
+
+On 15th June, in 25 deg. 40' S., by 25 deg. 9' W., the ship reached the S.E.
+trades. The weather was divine; the deep blue sky above, the exquisite
+tints of the atmosphere and the ocean, and the calm beauty of the long
+full-moon nights, exercised a most marked and beneficial influence upon
+the spirits and bodily health of the crew. Huge whales disported about,
+"blowing," as it is termed, immense masses of water into the air, like so
+many springs leaping from the bosom of the deep, or rushing upwards till
+half of their immense bodies emerged vertically from the water, into which
+they slowly plunged once more with a tremendous splash, the whole surface
+of the sea boiling and undulating as they fell back, athwart which might
+be seen dolphins gambolling about, or cleaving the blue depths with
+unmatched velocity. The S.E. trade blew with unbroken regularity, usually
+in its normal direction, but occasionally hauling up a little towards
+N.E., till, as we approached the Equator, it gradually blew steadily from
+the S.E.
+
+On 23rd June the Equator was reached and crossed for the sixth and last
+time in 26 deg. 13' W. In 25 days the frigate had run in a direct line 3800
+nautical miles, or an average of 6-1/3 knots an hour.
+
+The very strongly-marked westerly current which prevails near the Equator
+materially lengthened the voyage, its strength in 2 deg. 39' N. and 26 deg. 14' W.
+being such that while the ship made 213 knots in the 24 hours upon her
+direct course, she was carried within the same period no fewer than 65
+miles in a direction of W. by N.
+
+The S.E. trade remained as such as far as 4 deg. 36' N., 25 deg. 38' W., when
+fresh N.E. breezes were encountered, and stayed by the ship till she
+reached 9 deg. 54' N. by 29 deg. 42' W. She now had to make her way slowly forward
+through a belt of calms, rain-squalls, and occasional puffs of wind from
+W. and S.W., till, at length, on 2nd July, the wind came on to blow from
+N.N.E., in 11 deg. 47' N., by 29 deg. 29' W.
+
+The French corvette _Eurydice_, which had laid her course for St. Helena,
+had on that account kept more to the eastward, and had crossed the line in
+about 22 deg. W., and had in consequence lost so much more way than the
+_Novara_ that she took three days longer than our frigate to get from St.
+Helena to lat. 20 deg. N., to which this other circumstance contributed, that
+the N.E. trade does not blow so strongly or so steadily in the vicinity
+of the Cape de Verd Islands as a little further out.
+
+On 7th July, in 22 deg. 58' N., 36 deg. 51' W., the _Novara_ reached the
+well-known Mar de Sargasso, a portion of the Atlantic Ocean, in which the
+current, setting from the coast of Africa, encounters a branch of the
+great gulf stream, and forms a basin of still water, in which is collected
+an immense mass of seaweed (_sargassum bacciferum_, etc.) which is
+propelled slowly forward in long ranks by the action of the wind.
+
+The 9th July was a day of mourning on board. One of the sailors, who for a
+year past had been ailing and almost constantly in sick bay, died, and was
+committed to the deep, the last victim during the voyage.
+
+Next day, in 37 deg. 37' N., 39 deg. 1' W., the N.E. trade began to draw to the
+eastward, and gradually became more favourable, but at the same time lost
+in strength, till on the 14th it failed entirely.
+
+Several ships now hove in sight, and as one of these by her course must
+obviously approach the frigate pretty close, it seemed a good opportunity
+to get news from Europe, which the voyagers had for 54 days been
+speculating upon with anxious hearts. Accordingly a boat was lowered from
+the frigate and sent to board the merchantman, which proved to be the brig
+_Hero_, Captain Williams. He had left Barcelona 50 days before, and was
+bound for New York. The captain accordingly was not in a position to
+satisfy the very natural curiosity of those on board the _Novara_ as to
+the turn affairs had taken in Europe, or to give them late intelligence
+of public events especially in Austria. A few half-torn newspaper leaves
+round some bottles of cognac was all that the most earnest wish to oblige
+could furbish up in the way of information. In the course of conversation
+with the captain, it was only casually elicited that war had broken out
+two months before. More than this the honest seaman did not know, feeling,
+in fact, much greater interest in securing a profitable freight for his
+ship than in the political state of Europe.
+
+As soon as the frigate's boat had returned, the officer in charge was met
+with a storm of questions and inquiries. His reply was very
+unsatisfactory, and little consolatory. Among the fragments of papers
+there was little that was important, still less that could give
+satisfaction, and, as usually happens under such circumstances, precisely
+at the spot where some news of our own country had been printed, the leaf
+was torn across, and the rest missing. Thus the anticipations formed of
+obtaining intelligence from the merchantman which should allay the anxiety
+on board had not merely failed to do so, but had in fact increased it in
+intensity, and the excitement caused by this episode on the minds of all
+on board reached almost fever heat. One would far sooner have encountered
+a tempest than such uncertainty, especially if it could have driven the
+frigate more rapidly towards her goal!
+
+On the 19th July, at midnight, with favourable west winds and a lovely
+moon, the _Novara_ passed between Flores and Corvo, through the narrow
+channel of the Azores Islands--the first land that had been sighted since
+the frigate left the west coast of South America, 71 days before! The fact
+that it was hit so accurately, also furnished satisfactory proof, in a
+scientific point of view, that the seven chronometers in use on board,
+despite 27 months of constant handling under the most varying and
+frequently unfavourable conditions, were still in perfect order, and
+indicated with admirable accuracy the longitude of the ship.
+
+Unfortunately--a circumstance to be expected in such latitudes in the
+height of summer--the ship now lost entirely the favouring gales which
+hitherto had filled her sails, and sped her rapidly on her course. When
+not above a few hundred miles distant from Gibraltar, those on board had
+to toss about for a number of days in calms that seemed as though they
+would never cease. Anxiety was at its height.
+
+
+                               FOOTNOTES:
+
+[101] In one single year (1854), the imports into Australia of Chilean
+grain amounted to L630,000. In a good year Chile produces 2,500,000
+fanegas (920,755 quarters) of wheat, 4,500,000 fanegas (1,855,054
+quarters) of barley, and 180,000 fanegas (16,071 tons) of beans. The
+_fanega_ varies in weight according to the article measured; thus a fanega
+of wheat is 165 lbs., of barley 155 lbs., and of beans 200 lbs.
+
+[102] That ships in good holding ground and with sound tackle are in no
+great danger riding out even a heavy storm in the roads, is best proved by
+the fact, that in the inner harbour there is a floating dry dock in use
+throughout the year, which, notwithstanding the occasionally severe
+weather while we were there, had a three-masted ship, full-rigged, masted
+and tackled upon it, with repairs of all sorts going on upon her sides.
+
+[103] About 1_s._ 1_d._; a dollar is about 4_s._ 4_d._, and a dollar has 8
+reals.
+
+[104] We must especially remark the large and valuable zoological
+collection with which our natural history stores were enriched by a German
+gentleman, Dr. C. Seget of Santiago de Chili. With similar liberality
+another gentleman, Mr. Friedrich Leybold, a Bavarian by birth, now
+resident in Santiago, where he practises as a chemist, presented the
+Expedition with several valuable geological and botanical specimens.
+
+[105] The charge for apartments of three persons (two sleeping and one
+drawing-room), including board, was 30 Spanish piastres=L6 6_s._ per diem!
+
+[106] The Chilean Mint is entirely arranged on the French system, and is
+provided with French machinery.
+
+[107] "Historia fisica y politica de Chile, segun documentos adquiridos en
+esta Republica durante doze anos de residencia en ella, y publicado bajo
+los auspicios del supremo Gobierno por Claudio Gay, &c., Paris, 1844,
+8vo.;" besides two large quarto volumes, "Atlas de la historia fisica y
+politica de Chile."
+
+[108] The results of the great attention bestowed on public instruction
+have not been inadequate, as is apparent from the latest statistics on the
+subject, according to which the average proportion of the inhabitants, who
+can read and write, is 100 out of every 561 of the male population, and
+100 in 1095 of the females, or an average of 100 in every 828. In 1858,
+there were on the whole State 950 schools, attended by 39,657 scholars
+(viz. 27,288 male and 12,369 female). There is, however, a difference in
+these two statements of 6 per cent. The proportion of females to males
+_attending school_ is 45 to 100; of those able to read and write, of 51
+females to 100 males.
+
+[109] There are in the whole country 37 public and 12 private libraries
+(including in the latter only such as are really worthy of the name).
+
+[110] See Gay's History of Chile, Zoology, vol. i, p. 161.
+
+[111] The whole consumption of ice used in Valparaiso and Santiago is
+supplied by American ships, which take in their cargo at Boston, and sell
+it here at about 2-1/4d. per lb. It is cheaper to import the ice from
+America round the Horn than from the Andes, though the latter are only 50
+or 60 miles distant, and though ice is found on these at certain seasons
+at an elevation of only 6000 feet.
+
+[112] Mr. Haidinger, who at the very first exerted himself to the utmost
+of his ability and patriotism to promote the objects of the _Novara_
+Expedition, was so thoughtfully kind as to provide the geologist attached
+to it with a number of copies of publications of the Imperial Institute,
+as well as a corresponding number of neat little specimens of tertiary
+petrifactions from the Vienna basin, for the purpose of presenting them to
+kindred institutes in different quarters of the globe.
+
+[113] The lines of road already in operation or projected throughout Chile
+are as follows:--
+
+    _a._ From Valparaiso to Santiago, 110 miles, constructed at the
+    expense of the State, and estimated to cost $7,150,000
+    (L2,860,000). This had been opened when we were there, as far as
+    Guillota, 30 miles, but the whole was to be finished by 1862.
+
+    _b._ From Valparaiso to Talca (180 miles), and
+
+    _c._ From Port Caldera to Copiapo, the mining capital (50
+    miles), both constructed by private companies. From Copiapo a
+    tramway leads to Pabellar, whence there is a mule-road to the
+    mines of Chanarullo (4400 feet above sea-level). Mr. Evans had
+    invented a new description of locomotive, capable of climbing
+    even to this elevated region. Lastly, a road is projected to
+    unite Copiapo with the mining district of Tres Puntos.
+
+[114] See a very interesting "Essay" upon Chile, published at Hamburg by
+Senor Vicente Perez-Rosales, Consul-General for Chile at that port.
+
+[115] This estimate is founded on the following calculations:--
+
+  120,000 tons at $40 per ton, comes to $4,800,000, the annual
+  expenses of which, such as crew, insurance, &c., and
+  including interest for money invested, amounts to 30 per
+  cent. for 20 days                                                $80,000
+
+  Further saving of interest and insurance on goods valued at
+  $16,000,000 at 20 per cent. for 20 days                          177,776
+                                                                  --------
+  Total saving effected by vessels using the Straits of Magelhaen $257,776
+
+[116] The Steam-packet Company which now carries the mails twice a month
+from Valparaiso to the southern ports of Chile, receives an annual subsidy
+from Government of $50,000 (L10,500).
+
+[117] According to the reports of Mr. George Schuthe, governor of the
+little colony in the Straits of Magelhaen, some very valuable coal-strata
+exist near Punta Arenas. These, although difficult of access, would,
+nevertheless, fetch a high price, considering the high price of coal in
+the harbours along the east coast of South America. In Buenos Ayres and
+Monte Video, 12 to 15 days' sail distant, the average price of coal is 12
+dollars (L2 10_s._) per ton.
+
+[118] We cannot help stating here that we think it far from unimportant,
+that when employed to measure the altitude of prominent objects, the
+Aneroid may be made to supply widely different results from those of the
+ordinary barometer, as the elimination of gravity in the Aneroid readings
+remains as a constant element, and hence the difference between the two
+can only be rectified by due regard being had to this circumstance, when
+performing the requisite calculations.
+
+[119] This group, between 51 deg. and 53 deg. S., and 57 deg. and 62 deg. W., comprises,
+besides the two larger islands, 90 smaller islands, the superficial area
+of the whole being about 6000 square miles, or 3,840,000 acres. The summer
+temperature is 69 deg.8 Fahr. and that of winter rarely falls below 30 deg.2
+Fahr., so that the climate greatly resembles that of Scotland in many
+respects. The islands present a cheerless aspect; a rolling country with
+peat soil, covered with rank grasses, and intersected by low ranges of
+hills, alternating with marshy rivers and torrents. The lower part of the
+country is clay, slate, and sandstone, covered with turf, which is used
+for fuel. Tussock grass (_Dactylis cespitosa_) is the most common plant.
+
+
+            [Illustration: Station on the Panama Railway]
+
+
+
+
+                                  XXII.
+
+  An Overland Journey from Valparaiso to Gibraltar, _via_ the Isthmus of
+                                 Panama.
+
+                     16th May To 1st August, 1859.
+
+    Departure from Valparaiso.--Coquimbo.--Caldera.--Cobija.--
+    Iquique.--Manufacture of saltpetre.--Arica.--Port d'Islay.--
+    _Medanos_, or wandering sand-hills.--Chola.--Pisco.--The Chincha
+    or Guano Islands.--Remarks respecting the Guano or Huanu beds.--
+    Callao.--Lima.--Carrion crows, the principal street-scavengers.--
+    Churches and Monasteries.--Hospitals.--Charitable institutions.--
+    Medical College.--National Library.--Padre Vigil.--National
+    Museum.--The Central Normal School.--Great lack of intellectual
+    energy.--Ruins of Cajamarquilla.--Chorillos.--Temple to the Sun
+    at Pachacamac.--River Rimac.--Amancaes.--The new prison.--
+    Bull-fights.--State of society in Peru.--The _Coca_ plant, and
+    the latest scientific examination respecting its peculiar
+    properties.--The _China_, or Peruvian-bark tree.--Departure from
+    Lima.--Lambajeque.--Indian village of Iting.--Paita.--Island of
+    La Plata.--Taboga Island.--Impression made by the intelligence
+    of Humboldt's death.--Panama.--"Opposition" Line.--Immense
+    traffic.--The Railway across the Isthmus.--Aspinwall.--
+    Carthagena.--St. Thomas.--Voyage to Europe on board the R.M.S.
+    _Magdalena_.--Falmouth.--Southampton.--London.--Rejoin the
+    _Novara_ at sea.--Arrival at Gibraltar.
+
+
+Five days after the departure of the _Novara_, I left the roads of
+Valparaiso on board the mail steamer _Callao_. The weather was
+exceedingly unfavourable, the rain falling in torrents, while a heavy
+tumbling sea made the embarkation of the numerous passengers and their
+effects a process anything but agreeable. I have, therefore, the greater
+pleasure in expressing my gratitude for the courtesy of the Captain of
+H.M.S. _Ganges_, who sent his own gig to take me off to the steamer, and
+to the numerous friends, who despite the stormy weather had assembled on
+board to bid me a last farewell, and provide me with letters of
+introduction to the authorities and most influential persons of the more
+important of the localities I was about to visit. At 2 P.M. the shore bell
+sounded, a little boat made its appearance on the port side, pitching
+heavily in the swell, and a long thin figure stepped on deck. This proved
+to be Captain Stewart of the _Louisa_, whose acquaintance I had formed at
+the island of Tahiti, and who now, half breathless, handed me a small
+packet with the following endorsement,--"These are the extracts you
+requested from my journal, and which I promised to prepare for you on my
+first voyage from Norfolk Island to Pitcairn." They consisted in fact of
+those remarks upon the latest phase of the strange destiny of the Pitcairn
+Islanders, which have already appeared in a previous chapter. The worthy
+Captain had kept his word with true John Bull punctuality. A few moments
+more and the _Callao_ was steaming out of Valparaiso Roads, on her voyage
+northwards.
+
+Although the boats of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company plying between
+Valparaiso, Callao de Lima, and Panama, are tolerably large, clean, and
+elegantly fitted, yet the number of passengers for intermediate ports make
+them anything but a comfortable mode of travel. For, notwithstanding the
+high fares,[120] it is necessary to crowd three or four passengers into
+each state-room, which in the heat of the tropics is most inconvenient,
+and at times almost intolerable. Personally, however, I had no reason to
+complain on this score, as all the captains of the various steamers in
+which I journeyed north, so soon as my connection with the _Novara_
+Expedition was known, at once, with the most marked courtesy and
+attention, secured to me a state-room for my own exclusive use, and
+whenever we reached a port, placed their own boats at my disposal during
+our stay.
+
+The morning after we left Valparaiso, we reached Coquimbo, where, a few
+weeks before (24th April, 1859), a severe action had been fought between
+the Chilean troops and those of Pedro Gallo, the former proving
+victorious. Coquimbo is a small town of about 2000 souls, whose sole claim
+to importance is its proximity to some rich copper-mines. M. Longomasino,
+one of the many victims of the _coup d'etat_ of the second December, who,
+the reader will recollect, received permission to make the voyage from
+Tahiti to Valparaiso on board the _Novara_, was among our passengers; he
+left the steamer at Coquimbo, intending to go to the adjoining mining town
+of Serena (20,000 souls), where, through the kindness of friends, he had
+been invited to edit a political paper.
+
+Here I went on board the British corvette _Amethyst_, which just a year
+before had been lying alongside of the _Novara_ in Singapore harbour, and
+was received by her excellent commander with a most cordial welcome. To my
+astonishment I found a number of civilians on board: refugees, who had
+taken an active part in the late insurrection, and who now, when all hope
+of success was over, sought an asylum on British soil, for such is the
+deck of an English man-of-war, and, thanks to British political
+proclivities, had been cordially received there.
+
+About 11 P.M. the same night we were off the insignificant little harbour
+of Huasco, and about nine next morning ran into Caldera, a dreary-looking
+little place of some 2000 inhabitants, built upon one of a succession of
+sand-slopes. There is not a trace of vegetation; no foliage, no shrubs, no
+patches of grass,--all around as far as the eye could reach was a
+cheerless waste of sand. Only extraordinary opportunities for money-making
+could have induced the inhabitants to settle in this desolate wilderness,
+deficient in the very first necessity of life--fresh water. Every drop of
+this most important beverage has at present to be brought from 90 miles
+inland, so that a cask containing some 15 gallons costs 31 cents or 1_s._
+4_d._ English. The charge for supplying water alone to 90 or 100 workmen
+amounts to 40 dollars, or L8 8_s._, a week! At the time I visited it, the
+people were negotiating for the erection of a steam distilling apparatus,
+for procuring fresh water from the sea, at a less cost than was paid
+previously. From Caldera, a locomotive line of rail leads to the mining
+town of Copiapo, 71 miles inland, in the vicinity of which are rich mines
+of silver and copper. This enterprise has proved so remunerative, that,
+although its construction cost 2,500,000 dollars (L525,000 or about L7400
+a mile), the shareholders receive an annual dividend of 16 per cent.
+
+I visited the copper-smelting kilns, which belong to an English company,
+and produce annually from 1800 to 2000 tons of almost virgin copper (90 to
+96 per cent.), in ingots and pigs, as they are termed, an ingot weighing
+from 16 to 18 lbs avoirdupois. The ore, as at first found in the mines of
+Copiapo, has barely 18 to 36 per cent. of copper, and has to undergo six
+or seven smeltings before it becomes sufficiently pure to be sold at a
+profit in the markets of Europe. The smelting-furnace produces about seven
+tons of copper per diem, at a consumption of 60 tons of coal,[121] which
+is imported from Swansea, partly from Pennsylvania, and is worth 12 to 15
+dollars per ton of 2240 lbs. The rate of wages at Caldera remains pretty
+steady at two to three dollars per diem, and this is the reason why the
+enterprise is less remunerative than would be the case if wages were
+lower.
+
+The total annual yield of the copper and silver mines of the department of
+Copiapo is worth about 14,000,000 dollars, and gives employment to from
+6000 to 7000 labourers, or one-third the entire population of the
+district.
+
+On 20th May we anchored off Cobija, the sole harbour possessed by Bolivia
+on the west coast, and with a population of 1000. The state of affairs in
+Bolivia affords a marked example of how closely the development of a
+country is connected with the fact of its possessing more or less of
+sea-coast. How great is the commerce, the. prosperity, and the
+civilization of Chile, a proportionally small strip of not over-fertile
+soil, but the entire extent of which is sea-coast, compared with the
+poverty and barbarism of the interior state of Bolivia, so admirably
+fitted by nature for raising all manner of valuable produce, but whose
+sole means of communication with the rest of the world is through one
+insignificant harbour!
+
+The same day we reached Iquique, the southernmost harbour of Peru, with a
+population of about 4000, and which quite recently has increased greatly
+in importance, owing to the trade in saltpetre, which is found in immense
+quantities all along this rainless coast, and of which 1,000,000
+hundredweight (50,000 tons) are exported annually to England, North
+America, and Germany, in which countries it is extensively and
+beneficially used for manure.[122] Here we found lying at anchor a large
+merchantman, the _Victorine_ of Bordeaux, 3000 tons burthen, which was
+taking in a full cargo, exclusively, of this valuable product. The
+saltpetre is found between beds of clay from one to six feet below the
+surface, boiled in large vats to free it from impurities,[123] and dried
+in the form of cakes, which are packed for shipment in sacks of 250 lbs.
+It is worth, if purified, 21 reals (about 11_s._ 4_d._) per cwt. on the
+spot, and fetches L16 to L17 per ton in England. Upon a rough calculation,
+the quantity of saltpetre along the coast of Peru at an average breadth of
+30 miles amounts to 60,000,000 tons, enough to maintain the existing
+supply[124] for at least another thousand years. The rate of wages of the
+men engaged in the trade, owing to the scarcity of labour, is from two to
+three dollars per diem! The scarcity of water at Iquique is so great, that
+the town has to be supplied by means of a distilling apparatus, an
+undertaking the gross daily receipts of which are six hundred dollars! For
+the precious element has to be purchased not merely for men but animals;
+the price, for example, for a male to drink _ad libitum_ is one real,
+about 8-1/2_d._
+
+Tincal, or Biborate of Soda, is also largely found all along the coast,
+but the export was long prohibited, the suspicious jealousy of the
+Peruvian Government seeking to obtain first of all conclusive evidence of
+the value of this natural product, and the best means of making it
+contribute to the State treasury. At present about 200 tons, worth from
+L16 to L20 per ton, are exported annually. As we lay at anchor off
+Iquique, numbers of natives shot about with arrow-like rapidity in their
+exceedingly primitive boats, made of seal-skins fastened together in
+canoe-fashion. To avoid overturns, these curious specimens of naval
+architecture have bladders attached on either side!
+
+The heat now began to be very perceptible. The bare, treeless, almost
+perpendicular sand-bluffs along the coast, impart to it a dreary aspect,
+which even the rocky chain immediately behind, rising some 2000 to 4000
+feet, scarcely succeeds in softening. A great number of the passengers,
+mostly Peruvians, indemnified themselves for the cheerless monotony of the
+prospect on deck, by intense devotion to the mysteries of the green table
+in the saloon. All through the day, till far on in the night, the painted
+pasteboard flew from hand to hand. The favourite game was Rocambor,
+something like Ombre, diversified with Monte and dice, and for very high
+sums. I saw ten condors (L21) laid upon a single card. A few elderly
+gentlemen sat regularly in a distant corner of the saloon, where they
+played assiduously from nine in the morning till midnight without
+interruption. One wealthy Peruano, well known along this coast, in the
+course of a single voyage is said to have lost 80,000 dollars (L16,800)!!
+
+On 20th May we anchored in Arica, an elegant seaport of some 7000
+inhabitants, surrounded by beautiful luxuriant gardens, and which, though
+belonging to Peru, may be considered as the chief outlet for the produce
+of Northern Bolivia, since Tacna, the most important manufacturing town of
+that State, with a population of 12,000, is only nine English miles
+distant, lying at the foot of the Cordillera, while La Paz, the capital of
+the Republic, with a population of 75,000, is 288 miles distant, and is
+easiest reached from Arica. The political division of Bolivia is a crying
+injustice to that lovely country and its industrious population. The
+harbour of Arica belongs by natural position to Bolivia and not to Peru;
+commercial interests and general intercourse unite it far more intimately
+with Northern Bolivia than with Peru. The chief exports of Arica are
+silver, copper, alpaca wool, cinchona bark, chinchilla furs, cotton, and
+tin. There are also two steam flour-mills within the little town in full
+operation; the grain comes from the interior, and is shipped as flour to
+the various harbours along the coast. A railroad from Arica to Tacna
+greatly facilitates traffic and commerce, but further in the interior all
+intercourse is carried on by means of narrow mule-paths.[125]
+
+The houses, constructed for the most part of sun-dried bricks all along
+the coast of Peru, where rain is absolutely unknown, and even the
+dew-deposit is trifling, are flat, barely roofed in with thin strips of
+cane, and consequently when seen from the street have a very untidy
+appearance. Unfortunately these terrace-like roofs are likewise the sole
+receptacles for the refuse of the house, and any one who, in order to get
+a better view, ventures to ascend one of the adjoining dazzling white
+sand-heaps, will long remember the filthy but unique spectacle which
+greets his eye.
+
+Immediately outside of the suburb of Chimba, the desolate nature of the
+country comes conspicuously into view. I next walked to one of the nearest
+sand-hills, because I was assured that there were numerous graves of
+queens to be found there, as well as quantities of mummies. Owing to the
+extreme dryness of the atmosphere, the skulls of the dead which here lay
+scattered upon the surface of the soil, seemed as though they were so many
+anatomical preparations. Even some dead bodies of animals showed no
+symptoms of decomposition, but had been perfectly dried. The peculiarity
+of the meteorological conditions, the extreme dryness of the atmosphere,
+and the saline impregnation of the soil, have very much more to do with
+these marvellous antiseptic appearances than any indigenous skill in
+embalming the Indian corpses; since, even now, when the brown
+Catholicized Peruvians have lost none of their old superstitions, though
+they have abandoned most of their former arts and customs, the dead
+committed to the earth without further preparation, present the same
+mummified appearance when disinterred. I took away with me the skull of an
+Indian, from the neighbourhood of Arica, which was remarkable for the
+singular malformation resulting from compression by circular bandages.
+
+This artificial disfigurement of the skull has its origin in the peculiar
+customs of several Indian races of both North and South America, of
+mechanically altering the form of the cranium in the new-born infant. Of
+the difference in point of beauty of the different Indian races along the
+west coast of North America, a clear indication is afforded by the profile
+of the head of a native of Puget Sound, Oregon territory, for which I am
+indebted to the kindness of Dr. Ried of Valparaiso, he having been
+presented with it in 1856, by the medical officer of an American
+man-of-war. Here, in strong contrast with the oblong form of the cranium
+of an Indian from the neighbourhood of Arica, it appears that the skull
+has been flattened transversely, by pressure between two boards.
+
+At first one is disposed to attribute the squeezed-in appearance of the
+head, remarked in different Indian races, here lengthened in an unsightly
+degree, there hideously flattened, to some freak of nature; but more
+accurate investigations leave no doubt that the deformity in question, in
+whatever form, is the result of pressure artificially applied, and that
+this displacement of the brain is not confined to individuals, but is
+characteristic of entire tribes, yet without any sensible diminution of
+the intellectual faculties, or morbidity in their exercise.
+
+The valley of Azapa, three Spanish leagues (nine miles English) distant
+from Arica, is very fertile, and a good soil, but badly supplied with
+water. However, at an expense of a few millions of dollars, a
+communication might easily be established with the waters of the river
+Arica, the expense of which would be amply repaid by the increased
+productive power thus given to the valley. Sugar-cane, vintage-grape,
+oranges, pine-apples, olives, and vegetables of every description, could
+forthwith be raised, and advantageously disposed of at Arica.
+
+Among the Germans resident in Arica, we formed the acquaintance of M.
+Colmann, a merchant, and Consul for Chile, as also of Dr. Mittendorf, the
+latter of whom is physician to the Railway Company here. By the latter
+gentleman we were told that cuticular diseases, dysentery, and
+intermittent fevers were the most common ailments, but that on the whole
+the climate of Arica is healthy, and that many cases of illness were
+solely attributable to the irregular, licentious mode of life of the
+natives. Although it hardly ever rains, yet during the summer season
+(January to March), when the snows begin to melt in the interior, and
+tremendous falls of rain occur on the Cordillera, the beds of the rivers
+become torrents, wheeling along vast volumes of water to the sea, and
+partly sinking into the soil, so that, at a depth of two or three feet,
+one comes upon water, or, at all events, moisture, while the surface
+remains burned to a cake. A little canalization of the river-bed, and
+damming up the water, so as to have a permanent reservoir, would not
+merely secure a better supply of water, but would most beneficially
+influence the salubrity of the neighbourhood. The river dries up entirely
+every year in the months of July and August, during which accordingly
+occur the largest number of cases of sickness, and it seems the more
+necessary that measures of some sort should be at once taken to control
+the water, as otherwise there is reason to fear that unless artificial
+dykes and dams be constructed, the bed of the river will gradually be
+sanded up, when the whole district will be worse off for water than ever;
+since with each successive year's floods, as they dash down from the
+mountains, a perceptible falling off in quantity has been remarked, so
+that whereas ten years ago the bed of the river was full for four or five
+months together, at present it is rarely full so long as two months in
+all.
+
+On 22nd May, we entered the little harbour of Port d'Islay, the access to
+which is very difficult. The settlement itself stands on a steep rock, 150
+feet high, descending almost perpendicularly into the sea on all sides, so
+that the only landing-place is a mole, which communicates with the village
+above by an iron ladder. The well-known traveller, Count Castelnau, who in
+the course of a scientific expedition through South America visited this
+port in 1848, prophesied a splendid future for it; but I do not believe
+that its commerce has materially increased since then.
+
+The sole claim to consideration of Port d'Islay consists in its proximity
+to Arequipa, a city of 40,000 inhabitants, and the variety of valuable
+natural products which abound in that fertile section of country, from
+which, however, the port is separated by a sand-barren, 36 miles in width
+and 120 in length, the city of Arequipa itself being 7500 feet above the
+sea, at the foot of the volcano of the same name,[126] and amid a
+magnificent scenery.
+
+The dreary waste between Port d'Islay and Arequipa is continually swept by
+drift sand, which, by constantly obstructing the road, renders travelling
+thither absolutely unsafe, and indeed frequently dangerous to life. For
+the unfortunate who misses his way amid these wastes is lost beyond all
+possibility of succour. The wandering sand-columns or _medanos_,[127]
+formed of drift sand, present a singular appearance as they spin along
+before a S.E. wind, admirably described by Tschudi in his valuable
+Sketches of Travel in Peru. These extraordinary pillars, which constantly
+change both their form and position, and complete the perplexity of the
+traveller, are usually semi-circular, 8 or 10 feet high, and from 20 to 50
+feet wide, but occasionally they are seen 50 feet in height, when their
+diameter is about 150 feet. They are of most frequent occurrence in the
+hot season, when the parched sand obeys the slightest impulse of the
+atmosphere, whereas in winter, owing to the deposition of a fine
+penetrating dew (_garua_), which all along the coast of Peru supplies the
+place of rain, which is never seen, the sand increases in weight, and the
+basis of the column is solidified, so to speak, by the moisture absorbed.
+Between Port d'Islay and Arequipa, the _medanos_ are first encountered
+about 18 miles inland, or nearly half-way across the sand-barren.
+
+In the dells near the harbour volcanic ashes are occasionally found at
+certain spots, whereas they are never discovered further inland, nor near
+the volcano of Arequipa, which since the memory of man has never been
+known to be in a state of activity, and whose beautiful cone, not unlike
+that of Ometepec in Nicaragua, seems to be densely wooded up to the very
+summit. Apparently these are the remains of former eruptions of a
+neighbouring volcano, which have been borne towards the coast by the
+prevailing winds. The ashes themselves have no saline constituents, and
+are used by the natives in the manufacture of sun-dried clay-bricks
+(_adobes_), the quality of which they materially improve.
+
+We made an excursion to a churchyard in the vicinity of d'Islay, where the
+skulls of some half a hundred human beings lay exposed to view. They all
+seemed to have been bleached by exposure, and were in good preservation,
+so that on many might still be discovered heavy heads of hair. The eyes
+had shrivelled up into the skull, and were by no means gleaming and
+crystal-like as is alleged of those found in Indian graves, and offered
+for sale to strangers. These so-called "crystallized human eyes," of which
+an Italian curiosity dealer of Arica possessed one or two sacks-full,
+belong to a species of mollusca (_Loligo gigas_), and were used by the
+Indians to adorn their dead. To this circumstance must be attributed the
+great number that are to be found in the graves in the neighbourhood of
+Arica.
+
+We continued to coast along during the entire night. The number of
+passengers, especially of those on the "'tween decks," had again
+increased. Among the late arrivals was an Austrian, a Tyrolese, from
+Iquique, who was travelling into the interior of Peru. This man, seduced
+by dazzling promises, had in 1856 emigrated to Peru with 293 of his
+fellow-countrymen, and after two years of the most terrible hardships and
+privations, at last succeeded in finding employment at the salt mines of
+Iquique. He was now earning 3 dols. a day (12_s._ 6_d._), and was on his
+way to fetch his family away from the colony of Pozuzu, and taking them
+with him to the scene of his labours. That none of his countrymen did not
+follow him was, as he explained to us, in consequence of one of the
+colonists, "a half student," dissuading them from doing so, and himself
+leading them to try their luck at another spot, where unfortunately they
+had to battle with want in its severest form. I have rarely seen any man
+so excited and agitated at the sound of his native tongue as this hearty
+specimen of the sons of the Alps, when I addressed him "in good Austrian,"
+and shook him by the hand. The reader will find further on, in the account
+of my stay at Lima, a more full account of the Tyrolese colony at Pozuzu,
+its present condition and possible future.
+
+On 23rd May, at 6 A.M., the steamer anchored off Chala, which first
+attained the dignity of a seaport in 1857, being intended to facilitate
+intercourse and increase the trade with Cuzco. Chala is the nearest
+harbour to the ancient capital of the Incas, 240 miles distant. Though
+singularly ill-adapted for a port, being, in fact, nothing but an open
+roadstead, Chala bids fair to become a place of some importance, so soon
+as the country is at peace, and a good road is constructed hence to Cuzco,
+so as to be able to convey with dispatch the numerous valuable products of
+Cuzco. When we visited it, the little settlement, barely a year old, had
+212 inhabitants, in some thirty wooden huts extending along the sandy
+shore. The chief exports are wool and copper, the latter being found at
+Chaipa and Atiquipa, nine miles N. of Chala.
+
+The following morning, after passing the _Barracoon_ of Pisco, a rather
+dangerous passage beset with low islands between Barraca Head (on
+Sangallan Island) and Huasco Head (a projecting headland of the mainland),
+we reached Pisco, also nothing but an open roadstead, the tremendous surf
+in which does not admit of ships approaching within two or three miles of
+the shore. Several years before a Mr. Wheelwright had commenced to
+construct a mole here, to project some hundreds of feet into the sea, so
+as to facilitate the loading and unloading of ships and the embarkation of
+passengers, but the works were still unfinished, and indeed would need to
+be very largely added to ere the object aimed at could possibly be
+obtained. On the declivity of Barraca Head sloping seaward are visible
+three marks in the form of crosses, which, according to tradition, were
+made in the sand by the pious monks of former centuries. Their size must
+indeed be colossal, since, though we passed from four to five miles off,
+the outlines of the three figures were plainly visible. Well-known as this
+phenomenon is to everybody, no one has ever had the curiosity to make an
+excursion thither from Pisco, so as to clear up the fact of their being
+actually the work of human hands, or, as seems more probable, simply
+columns of drift sand, like the _medanos_ of Arica, thrown into this
+fantastic shape by the caprice of some passing storm.
+
+The chief staple of cultivation at Pisco, and throughout the province, is
+the vine. I never tasted such delicate, juicy, luscious grapes as those I
+got there. They are chiefly used in the manufacture of the well-known
+"Pisco," a sort of "Aguardiente" (burning water, sc. brandy), the
+consumption of which is extraordinarily great. There were also fruits in
+most diverse profusion, chirimoyas (a species of anona), bananas,
+aguacales, mangoes, pine-apples, lemons, oranges, peaches, apples, pears,
+&c., which are grown here of the most delicate description for the market
+of Lima.
+
+Pisco is the first point along the entire barren coast at which the
+traveller, since leaving Valparaiso, sees the shores covered once more
+with vegetation. With inexpressible relief the eye rests upon the green
+carpet which, on all sides, gleams forth, even between and among the
+houses. The place has about 3000 inhabitants, and possesses numerous
+churches, whose lofty belfries impart to it quite the appearance of a
+large town. About 45 miles inland, in a lovely and fertile valley, lies
+the large city of Ica, with which there is considerable traffic, and the
+chief product of which is also the grapevine. Ten English miles N. of
+Pisco, and, in fact, opposite the town, are the renowned Chincha or Guano
+Islands, and towards these our course was now directed. These are three
+small islands rising close to each other out of the bosom of the sea, the
+most north-easterly of which has been the most stripped. Here also is the
+chief village, consisting of upwards of 100 wooden huts, inhabited by some
+200 to 250 persons. In 1858 there were some 2000 men living on the
+islands, while several hundred ships at a time would be lying at anchor in
+the harbour, loading with the valuable excretions of innumerable
+sea-fowls, of which the islands chiefly consist. When we visited them, the
+depredations had somewhat fallen off, the number of labourers was
+diminishing, and there were only a few vessels in the harbour.
+
+The islands have a melancholy, naked, barren look; the same substance
+which, in smaller quantity, contributes so powerfully to promote the
+productiveness of the soil, to which it is applied, here stifles all
+vegetation, by reason of its very abundance, and fails to show any trace
+of that fertilizing principle which lies concealed within it.
+
+The northern island is about 4200 feet long, and 1500 to 1800 feet wide.
+Its height is from 150 to 180 feet. The _Huanu_,[128] consisting of the
+excrement of various descriptions of sea-birds, chiefly sea-mews,
+sea-ravens, divers, and _laridae_, forms strata, sometimes of a
+greyish-brown, sometimes of a rusty red colour, which at some points
+attain a thickness of 120 feet. The huts of the settlers are erected on
+the very guano beds. A handsome, comfortable hotel has latterly been
+added. All the necessaries of life, even drinking-water, have to be
+brought from the mainland, 14 miles distant. Living, consequently, is very
+expensive on the island, though there is anything but privation, or even
+lack of enjoyment. One of the inhabitants, a Swede, who has a small store
+on the island, observed to me, "We live as well and comfortably on the
+Chincha Islands as anywhere on the globe, and have occasionally even music
+and a dance!"
+
+In May, 1859, the population consisted of 50 Europeans, 50 Chinese, and
+250 Peruanos and Negroes. The majority were labourers, who were in great
+request as "_Mangueros_" or "_Abarrotadores_," and were busily engaged in
+excavating the indurated excrement, and transporting it to the various
+points for lading. The daily wages of the free labourers was 1 dollar 50
+cents (about 6_s._ 3_d._) per diem; the Chinese, on the other hand,
+received only 5 dollars per month, and a daily ration of rice. One
+Peruvian planter, Domingo Elias, had imported at his own cost several
+hundred Chinese coolies, who, like those in the West Indies, were to pay
+in labour for the expense of their voyage. The remuneration given to these
+hardy sons of the Middle Empire was of the scantiest. While they had to
+work alongside of convicts, longer and harder than any other class of
+labourers, they only received one-tenth of the pay of the latter.
+
+The sanitary condition of the settlement was described to me as
+exceedingly favourable. The guano-getters contribute the smallest
+contingent to the sick list, and even the strong, penetrating, and
+exceedingly disagreeable stench of the substance, impregnated as it is
+with ammonia, seems to have not the slightest prejudicial effect upon the
+lungs, pulmonary complaints hardly ever making their appearance among the
+workmen. So far from this being the case, it is even contended that
+persons suffering under affections of the lungs derive benefit in the
+first stage of the malady from a residence in the Huanu Islands, and find
+themselves in improved health on their return to the mainland.
+
+The centre island has been only partially excavated, but the works there
+have been discontinued. At present it is entirely uninhabited, though
+there are still visible on its summit a few wooden huts, which formerly
+sheltered the workmen, as also some of the "shoots" or slides used for
+facilitating the collection and shipment of the guano.
+
+The southernmost of the three islands is quite in its primitive state,
+never having been touched. No sign indicative of man's presence on it is
+anywhere visible.
+
+The earliest attempts to export guano to Europe as a manure were made in
+1832, but they proved so losing a speculation, that not till eight years
+later did the Peruvian mercantile house of Messrs. Quiros again direct
+attention to the importance of guano as an article of export, when the
+Government of Peru granted them, for a fixed sum, the exclusive privilege
+of exporting guano for six years. This gave an opportunity for
+instituting, on a sufficient scale, those experiments which, it will be
+remembered, Mr. Meyer of Liverpool was making at that period, and which
+was followed by such surprising results.
+
+From March to October, 1841, 23 vessels conveyed 6125 tons of guano to
+England, Hamburg, Antwerp, and Bordeaux. In November of the same year, the
+English barque _Byron_ brought to Peru the cheering intelligence that a
+ton of guano was selling in England for L28 per ton. This totally
+unexpected and startling result induced the Government, by a decree of
+17th November, to declare that the agreement with Messrs. Quiros was
+cancelled, and fresh offers for the privilege of shipping guano were
+invited from speculators.
+
+Since that period the exportation of this important manure has attained
+unprecedented dimensions in every part of the globe. Of late years it has
+reached the enormous amount of 500,000 tons from these islands alone, and
+the revenue to the Government has been 12,000,000 to 15,000,000 dollars.
+
+The contractors sell the guano in Europe for account of the Peruvian
+Government, and receive for it a commission fee of from 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 per
+cent. of the gross amount; for this they get, moreover, paid 5 per cent.
+of interest for outlays and pecuniary advances (pretty considerable) which
+they make to the native Government. The contracts are generally entered
+into for four years.
+
+A complete exploration and survey of the islands was made in 1853 by M. C.
+Faraguet, a French engineer. According to his report, which was pretty
+comprehensive, and drawn up under the co-operation of several other
+scientific gentlemen, the quantity of guano on the northernmost island, in
+September, 1853, was 4,189,477 Peruvian tons (about 3,740,866 tons
+English); the middle island about 2,237,954 English tons, and the
+southernmost 5,072,032 English tons; or the entire cubical mass was at
+that period about 11,050,852 tons English. Assuming an average price, this
+would imply a money value of about L120,000,000. Since 1841, when the
+first considerable shipment was made, to 1861, there had been exported
+from the Chincha Islands 3,000,000 tons of guano, worth about 135,000,000
+dollars (L29,250,000).
+
+At first, owing to the enormous mass of guano left to accumulate
+undisturbed for centuries, the very natural error was made of reckoning
+the quantity deposited at too high an estimate, and the amount annually
+taken at too low a figure.[129] Hence it happened that a few native and
+many foreign writers have spoken of these islands as affording a supply
+which only centuries could exhaust. It is now, however, ascertained that,
+supposing the export proceeds at its present rate, only 25 to 30 years
+will elapse ere the entire strata of excremental manure of all the three
+Chincha Islands will have been carried off!
+
+Notwithstanding ample supplies of guano have been discovered besides all
+along the west coast of South America, on uninhabited islands and
+promontories, and upwards of 7,000,000 tons of this valuable commodity
+been found on the islands south of Callao alone,[130] yet, even should
+this statement turn out correct, it would only supply the existing demand
+for other 10 or 15 years, while the formation of beds of guano must year
+after year become more and more confined to solitary, inaccessible islands
+of the Southern Ocean. For so soon as such beds of guano begin to be
+explored, they are quickly abandoned by the birds, which are gradually
+retreating from the islands along the coast and the usual channels of
+commerce.
+
+The Peruvian Government does not seem to realize the calamity impending
+over the country on the exhaustion of the guano beds, which would dry up
+one of its principal sources of revenue. Certainly it seems impossible to
+make a more unwise use of the immense sums which are flowing into the
+State treasury. Nothing is done for making roads or railways so as to
+furnish intercourse with the fertile provinces of the interior, or to
+raise and encourage agriculture or commerce. Just as this revenue does not
+result from the energy or industrial activity of the people, it is
+expended without any object of utility to show for it. The Government
+pockets the dues as a monopoly, and expends the sums thus obtained in
+avaricious schemes of aggrandizement, or warlike expeditions against
+Ecuador and Bolivia, which keep the country in perpetual hot water, and
+only add to its burthens. The guano duties go in gunpowder! Lightly won,
+as lightly gone!
+
+During the nine days of our voyage between Valparaiso and Callao de Lima
+there were some musicians on board, who gave us a concert on deck every
+evening. As we left the Chincha Islands some frolicsome young Peruvians,
+disregarding the discord of the flute and violin, and unmindful of the
+timeless tuneless twanging of the two harps, got up a dance.
+
+In the course of the night we ran into Callao harbour, and when I came on
+deck, in the cool of the morning, I found we were already lying at anchor
+in this spacious and secure port. The tradition that with a calm sea and a
+clear sky it is possible to perceive the ruins of the old town, with its
+houses and church-towers, which sank here suddenly in 1746 by the shock of
+an earthquake, has survived to the present day, and is told to every
+new-comer, who greedily swallows it down, though not one of the narrators
+has ever beheld the marvel with his own eyes! Earthquakes, indeed, are by
+no means so frequent as at the beginning of the present century, when it
+was rare for a fortnight to elapse without at least one _temblore_ or
+horizontal oscillation. The vertical shocks (_terra-motos_), the most
+dangerous kind of earthquake, have not occurred here since 1828. The
+season at which earthquakes most frequently occur are the months of March,
+April, and September, whence the latter month has received from the people
+the jocular name of "_Se tiembla!_" (it trembles!) One Peruvian who has
+long occupied himself with scientific observations has repeatedly
+witnessed that a magnet, freely suspended, regularly lost its attractive
+powers a few minutes before each shock, and that a piece of steel held by
+the magnetic force fell to the ground. If this be confirmed by a series of
+observations the magnet might ultimately become a sort of
+earthquake-monitor.
+
+The Callao of the present day is a dirty, ugly hole, with narrow streets,
+and low houses built principally of mud and cane, with flat roofs. Only a
+few of the houses of foreigners, erected out of hearing of the hubbub of
+the port, form a grateful exception. The entire population will be about
+20,000 souls.
+
+The most interesting building of the port is undoubtedly the new Custom
+House with 31 colossal magazines, each capable of containing six to eight
+entire ships' freights. I repeatedly heard complaints made of the
+slovenliness of the attendants, in consequence of which it frequently
+happened that days elapsed ere goods, paid for, were delivered out of
+bond. The warehouse charge is very small, and consists chiefly of
+stamp-duties, which are imposed on the money paid for goods. The trade of
+Callao is apparently on the increase, and, considering the productiveness
+of the country, would be even greater, were internal order restored, when
+peace and confidence would follow in its train.
+
+As I had to prosecute my journey northwards by the next steamer, I
+hastened on to Lima, so as to satisfy my curiosity as to this the most
+important city of Peru in modern days. A few hours after my arrival in
+Callao, I found myself on the road to the "City of the Kings."[131] Only a
+few years back the journey from Callao to Lima, though only six English
+miles, was an exceedingly arduous and even dangerous undertaking. The road
+lay through a shadeless desert of deep sand, between uncultivated fields
+and low scrubs, and was absolutely unsafe owing to attacks of robbers. Now
+it is a frequent excursion, a tolerably good railroad performing the
+distance in about half an hour.
+
+By the kindness of Mr. Wilhelm Brauns, the Consul-General of Hamburg, and
+head of the distinguished English house Huth, Gruening, and Co.,[132] to
+whom I brought letters of introduction, and who was most kindly in
+waiting for me. I was speedily and pleasantly conveyed from the station in
+Lima, to take up my quarters in his house till I took my leave. Owing to
+this fortunate event, I found myself unexpectedly brought into the very
+thick of the very best German society. Nowhere in the course of many years
+of travel in various countries, all over the globe, did I meet with more
+cordial hospitality, or a more delightful reception, than during my 19
+days' stay in the "City of the Kings."
+
+On our way from the station to the house of Mr. Brauns, I remarked that
+the houses in every part of the city that we passed were painted with
+variegated stripes, and heard, to my intense astonishment, that, in
+consequence of a recent decree of the Government, every householder in
+each quarter was ordered, with a view to facilitating the identification
+of their houses, to paint them of a colour corresponding with the coloured
+official plans of the city! Accordingly in one quarter all the houses were
+green, in another yellow, in a third white, in a fourth reddish, and in a
+fifth sky-blue. As in all Spanish American cities exposed to earthquakes,
+most of the houses in Lima also are but one storey high. The larger
+buildings are constructed of sun-dried bricks or fire clay, the smaller of
+cane set up double, with the space between filled up with clay, and the
+whole whitewashed. Their most singular feature is the flat roofs, which
+consist of a layer of cane and straw mats, which, for better security,
+occasionally have a coating of clay. Thus an open space (_Azotea_),
+surrounded by balustrades, is secured, which is used as a playground by
+children, and serves as a promenade for the grown-up portion of the
+community. Some of the windows communicate with the roof by a sort of
+trap-door, which instead of sashes of glass has shutters of wood, which
+communicate with the rooms beneath by a long cord, so that they can be
+opened or shut from below at pleasure. Many of the chambers in the
+interior of the house get light and air solely through these apertures
+(called _Ventana de Teatinas_, because first introduced by the Theatine
+monks), while windows properly so-called are less numerous, and when
+looking towards the street are usually provided with large, broad,
+sometimes richly-gilt iron shutters. We saw these curious cords for
+opening and shutting the trap-doors in the roof hanging down in the middle
+of even elegantly-furnished apartments, and not even the circumstance of
+being made of silk prevented their having a peculiar and ungraceful
+effect.
+
+The mode of constructing the houses, together with the elegant
+ornamentation of the open courts (_patio_) of the interior, speedily
+remind the stranger that he is in a place where rain (at least according
+to Northern ideas) is an unknown phenomenon, since one single, even
+down-pour must inevitably do immense damage in the Lima of the present
+day. During the winter months, however, as they are called, viz. June to
+November, fogs (_garuas_) are very frequent, which, albeit light, are
+sufficiently penetrating thoroughly to soak the pedestrian or horseman who
+happens to be surprised by them. I have myself repeatedly experienced in
+Lima fogs of such density, that it was quite practicable to count each
+separate drop. During these winter months, fine, clear days free of all
+cloud are comparatively rare; but the statement one occasionally hears,
+that for five months together the sun is invisible in Lima, is an
+exaggeration. The temperature of Lima is much lower than we could expect
+from a city within 12 degrees of the Equator, and seems to be affected
+principally by the proximity of the eternal snows of the Andes, and the
+prevailing atmospheric currents. The thermometer never rises higher than
+85 deg.8 Fahr., nor falls below 68 deg.2 Fahr. The average temperature during
+the hot season is 77 deg., and during the cold 63 deg.5 Fahr. Such a climate
+renders fires superfluous, and it is more habit than necessity that
+induces some Spanish families to carry about copper or iron pans
+(_Brasero_) filled with live coal, with which to warm their hands or feet.
+
+The exteriors and internal equipments of the dwellings are very simple and
+devoid of ornament, only a few of the older buildings, such, for instance,
+as the house of Torre Tagle, near San Pedro, forming the exception. Among
+the architectural decorations, which preserve to the present day the
+tradition of the glories of the Peruvian kingdom, one may marvel at
+majestic designs and beautiful mosaics, which even in their ruin tell of
+the magnificent luxury that was once indulged in here.
+
+The streets are wide and tolerably regular, but the absence of gutters and
+the wretched foundation of the roadway prevent their being used by
+carriages or horsemen, or by pedestrians even more than they can help. The
+open ditches at either side are full of filth and animal impurities, which
+are continually being thrown in, and but for the services of numerous
+carrion crows (_cathartes f[oe]tens_), who perform the duties of
+scavengers, Lima, owing to the supineness of the native authorities, would
+be one of the filthiest and most unhealthy cities in South America. But
+the _gallinazos_, as these black-headed birds are called by the natives,
+although lazy and unwieldy, nevertheless are in such immense numbers here,
+that they suffice to keep the streets comparatively free from putrescent
+odours. Everywhere, even in the thick of places of public resort, one sees
+these birds, which no one injures on account of their usefulness, and
+which even the rising generation never think of disturbing in their
+disgusting avocations, hopping about upon the bare ground, and gorging
+themselves on the garbage around.
+
+One of the greatest improvements to the city is its almost universal
+illumination by gas, which in the evening imparts a peculiar charm to the
+streets and fashionable shops of Lima, and enables them, in this
+particular at least, to vie with those of the capitals of Europe.
+
+The largest buildings in Lima are, as we might expect from a country
+conquered and colonized by Spaniards, the churches and monasteries, of
+which there are in this capital no fewer than eighty. Many of these
+Spanish memorials, of a religious epoch more bigoted than sincere, are at
+present decayed, and even those which are still preserved in something
+like good order fail to charm the eye by any graces of architecture or
+majestic simplicity in their interior fittings up. The Cathedral even,
+which takes up almost the entire east side of the chief square, is no
+exception to this rule, and, though it was 90 years in erection, is after
+all a very indifferent edifice. The interior is lofty and spacious, but
+owing to the choir having its proportions curtailed by a wide altar in the
+midst, one perceives on entering the church only the smaller half, so that
+the impression is destroyed, which, but for this interposed erection,
+would undoubtedly be made by the high altar, richly overlaid with gold and
+silver, seen through the vista of the entire building. The ornaments, the
+sacred vessels, and censers used in performing mass are exceedingly rich
+and valuable, but are too much overlaid to please an aesthetic taste. In
+the catacombs of the Cathedral repose the remains of Francisco Pizarro.
+Few strangers omit to visit this spot, and usually feel as much surprised
+as pleased at finding offered them for sale by the sacristan, various
+sorts of relics of the renowned conqueror of Peru, though all cannot hope
+to be so fortunate as an English lady at Lima, who informed me with all
+gravity that she had purchased from a guide a slipper taken from the
+coffin of Pizarro. Should this mania for relics on the part of visitors,
+and readiness to humour it on the part of vergers, continue unchecked,
+there will remain ere long in the catacombs only an empty shell, in which
+once lay the celebrated Conquistador. Perhaps, though, the speculative
+sacristan contents himself with gratifying the wishes of curiosity-loving
+visitants, by means similar to those of the artful cicerone who
+accompanies the enthusiastic stranger in his rambles among the ruins of
+classic antiquity.
+
+The monastery of San Francisco is more worth notice for its immense
+extent, which equals in size many an old imperial walled city of Suabia,
+than for elegance of style or tasteful artistic interior. The facade,
+painted in various colours, and overlaid with ornament, resembles by far
+more a Buddha temple than a Roman Catholic church. The corridors are the
+finest part of the building, their wooden ceilings being very richly
+carved. On all the walls of the passages are suspended drawings
+illustrative of the lives of various holy men, which, however, singular to
+say, are hung with their faces to the wall, and are only turned round on
+appointed festivals to charm the eyes of believers!
+
+The church is very roomy within, but quite bare of ornament. The sacristan
+with evident pride directed our attention to San Benito, a "black" saint,
+who was held in high esteem by the negroes, probably on account of his
+colour. Quite close to the monastery is the "Casa de Ejercicios," whither
+the monks repair at certain periods of the year to perform the prescribed
+religious exercises. The cells here have a more comfortless look than in
+the cloister proper. A bed-frame with a skin stretched upon it, a hard
+stool, a plain table, a crucifix, and a human skull, comprise the entire
+inventory. The latter, the cranium of a departed brother, was covered with
+numerous aids to religious meditation, some written, some carved on the
+substance of the bone.
+
+The lay-brother who escorted us round had not long been a denizen of this
+gloomy monastic abode. Though still very young, he was leaving behind him
+a tolerably enlarged experience of the world. Starting as a gold-digger in
+California, he became a gambler and speculator, when he quickly lost all
+he had so laboriously wrested from the soil, and returned to Lima, where,
+more for the sake of change and comfort than for any special vocation or
+imperious spiritual necessity, he had entered the order of Franciscans.
+His temperament being much more that of a man of the world than a monk, he
+must have felt himself sorely hampered by the restrictions of monastrism,
+were it not for the lax morality which is the standard of convent life in
+the capital of Peru; but the monk's cowl is in Lima not only the attire of
+humility and resignation, it is likewise the cloak for all manner of
+licentiousness and hypocrisy--the "_surtout_" which conceals many a lapse
+from virtue!
+
+The monastery of San Pedro was the wealthiest in Lima, so long as it
+remained the property of the Jesuits. When, in 1773, the order went forth
+for the suppression of the Order throughout South America, it was not
+executed without the Spanish viceroy's cherishing certain secret hopes of
+obtaining large riches. The Jesuits, however, on this occasion vindicated
+their reputation for subtlety, which has become proverbial among mankind.
+When the inventory was taken, nothing but empty boxes were to be found,
+and the most strict investigations and inquiries led to no more favourable
+result.
+
+Among the hospitals which we visited, that of San Andres deserves foremost
+notice for its size and comprehensiveness. It has room for 600 patients,
+who are tended by 50 _S[oe]urs de la Charite_, the majority of whom are
+French. The yellow fever, which, introduced in 1852 by immigrants,
+penetrated deep into the interior, though of a milder type, had of late
+carried off numerous victims, and indeed had seriously weakened the
+hygienic good name[133] of Lima; the small-pox also had annually committed
+fearful ravages; for vaccination is not made imperative by law, and
+inoculation is therefore neglected. Besides the hospital of St. Andrew,
+there are others for female patients, for the military, for incurables and
+imbeciles, an asylum for orphans,[134] and one for foundlings.[135]
+
+The best managed hospital apparently is that of Santa Anna, the wards of
+which are roomy, light, and airy, and make up about 350 beds. On the other
+hand, a portion of the above hospital set apart for those mentally
+afflicted, as also the regular Lunatic Asylum (_casa de Locos_), were in a
+state of filth and neglect, that are a positive disgrace to the present
+century. It is, in fact, a singular consideration that in every quarter of
+the globe men have only now begun to bethink them of their duties to those
+unhappy fellow-creatures, whose wretched lot should have commanded their
+most active sympathies! The reform of hospitals, and even of prisons and
+penitentiaries, had long been carried out in Europe, before asylums
+especially designed for the treatment of lunatics were projected. I must
+not, however, omit to add, in justice to the philanthropic society
+(_Sociadad de Beneficiencia_), to whose management the whole of the
+hospitals and poor-houses of the capital are intrusted, that a new Lunatic
+Asylum was in course of construction, the cost of which will amount to
+85,000 dollars (about L17,800).
+
+The _Hospital de los Locos_ (Hospital for the Insane) in the Cercado is
+all on the ground-floor, with chambers used at once for sitting-room,
+dining-room, and bed-chamber, but with accommodation for about 200
+patients. Twenty of the cells are set apart exclusively for refractory
+patients. The institution is in charge of Dr. Ulloa, one of the most
+skilful of the native physicians, who studied both in France and England.
+The patients are tended by the Grey Sisterhood, which has only recently
+reached the country.
+
+The old university buildings, on what formerly was called the Square of
+the Inquisition, now named Independence Square, are at present only used
+for festivities, examinations, conferring of degrees, &c. &c., while the
+different lectures are read in various buildings. I visited the School of
+Medicine, of which at that time Dr. Cajetano Herredia was rector, a
+gentleman more respectable for his zealous discharge of duty than by his
+scientific attainments. There are some good lecture-rooms, a chemical
+laboratory, a small museum, consisting mainly of pathological specimens,
+and a very fair library, which boasts several really valuable and
+little-known prints and books, especially such as relate to the history of
+Peru. One of the Professors, Don Antonio Raimondi, a Neapolitan by birth,
+bids fair to raise the reputation of the School of Medicine of Lima by his
+extensive knowledge and excellent mode of instruction. This gentleman
+teaches several branches of Natural History, and, during the short period
+he has been in Lima, has already given practical proof of his activity in
+a variety of fields.
+
+Unfortunately Professor Raimondi, with a number of his pupils, was absent
+on an excursion for practical scientific instruction, so that I was
+deprived of the opportunity of making his personal acquaintance. In his
+studio I saw two very remarkable skulls of Indians, which, owing to
+artificial pressure, had assumed a most singular form, one of which had
+belonged to an Indian of Cuzco, the other to a native of the Chincha
+tribe, who reside between Pisco and Canete. I was also shown on the same
+occasion a female skull in such excellent preservation, that one could
+still easily perceive the expression of the face. This was the skull of a
+half-breed Indian woman, named Maria Palacel, aged 25, who had died in the
+hospital of Santa Anna, 27th Sept. 1856, of dysentery, and on 1st March,
+1859, nearly two and a half years later, had been disinterred in a state
+of complete preservation. Nature had in this case taken on herself the
+process of embalming, and had, owing to the dryness of the atmosphere, and
+the quantity of saline matter in the soil, secured results which in Europe
+could only have been obtained artificially and at a considerable expense.
+
+Adjoining the Escuela de Medecina is the National Library, a large
+building containing some 30,000 volumes, treating of every department of
+human knowledge, but which, owing to want of means, has of late years
+received hardly any accession. The librarian is Don Francisco de Paula
+Vigil, a highly intelligent and liberal-minded priest and man of the
+world, who had been excommunicated by Pio Nono on account of his learned
+work, "Defence of the Principles of Secular Authority against the
+Pretensions of the Holy See." Nothing daunted by the fulmination of this
+penalty, the excellent old gentleman is prosecuting his researches yet
+farther, and is energetically defending his principles; and what is still
+more surprising, he has anything but fallen off in public estimation in
+consequence. This is due to the fact that, unlike the female population,
+the Peruvians are very tolerant in religious matters, and rather averse
+from those pre-disposed to spiritual matters, whence there results the
+very small influence of the Peruvian clergy, everywhere visible, and the
+obstinate virulent enmity with which also, since the Spanish yoke was cast
+off, the priestly party oppose the progress of liberal ideas. This feeling
+is moreover powerfully aided by the ghastly testimony of history, that it
+was the monks who first introduced the rack and the Inquisition into the
+country.
+
+Father Vigil received me with much cordiality, and we had a long talk upon
+a variety of subjects. At last it turned upon his own well-known work, and
+the painful position in which he felt himself with respect to the See of
+Rome. This was the most interesting portion of our conversation. "It is
+not Catholicism that has made the majority of Catholic nations lag so
+woefully in the career of progress," exclaimed the venerable priest, "but
+that which Catholicism has suffered to be mixed up with it,--the
+Inquisition and Monasticism. It is marriage and labour that make
+individuals moral and useful, and nations great and powerful. Human
+society can get on very well without monks or nuns, but not without
+morals, not without matrimony and labour."
+
+Had I not transcribed these words almost at the moment they were spoken, I
+should hardly have dared to repeat them here, for I durst not have
+trusted to my memory, that a Spanish American priest, should have made
+such a remark in the "city of the Three Kings." These revelations, which
+are far from being solitary, but find a responsive echo in the bosoms of a
+portion at least of the male population of the capital, are highly
+important in arriving at a conclusion respecting the actual religious
+sentiment of the Peruvian Republic, and are very marked indications that
+an immense movement is likewise preparing in the Catholic Church on the
+further side of the Andes; and that Peru also has found its "Father
+Passaglia." Nay, it would not surprise me in the least, should South
+America, which for upwards of three centuries has been dumbly obeying the
+behests of spiritual intolerance, suddenly emit letters and propositions
+which would amount to a virtual separation from the Roman Catholic Church!
+It is but a few years since Catholic priests in the Legislative Assemblies
+of Nicaragua and Honduras recorded their votes in favour of repealing the
+ordinance of celibacy, and from their pulpits harangued their flocks on
+the advantages of revolutionary insurrection!
+
+In a wing of the Library buildings is the National Museum, which, however,
+merely fills two moderate-sized apartments. The Natural History collection
+is in such a wretched neglected state that it is in imminent danger, the
+ornithological department especially, of being entirely eaten up by
+insects.
+
+Amongst the most valuable are some Peruvian antiquities, such as weapons,
+mummies, and what are called _Huacos_, earthen jars, pots, and other
+utensils from ancient Indian graves. To the historical student the
+portraits of the whole of the Viceroys and Governors of Peru, which are
+suspended on the walls of the first apartment in chronological order, will
+prove extremely interesting. The finest head of the series, the one which
+most clearly tells of manly vigour, acuteness, and energy, is that of
+Francisco Pizarro, the natural son of a Spanish nobleman, who tended swine
+in his boyhood, and ended his life as Viceroy of Peru, having been slain
+by an assassin in the 64th year of his age.
+
+Of the educational institutions, the only one deserving special remark is
+the "Escuela Normal Central" (Central Normal School), established by
+Government, at an expense of 160,000 dollars (L33,600), and opened in
+1859. Its object is to provide suitable school instruction for industrious
+children of poor or aged parents; but hitherto the prefects of the
+provinces have, by protection, presented almost exclusively children of
+persons of means and position, and sent them on to the capital. Owing to
+the great want of good schools hitherto, it happens that every one crowds
+towards this new institute, which seems to promise to its pupils a more
+complete education and better training than any other. The number for
+which it was destined was 40 boarders and 200 day-scholars, the former of
+whom are well taken care of.
+
+The system of education pursued is the Lancasterian, and is carried out by
+five professors. The estimated annual expenditure is about 20,000 dollars.
+One of the directors, Mr. J. C. Braun, a German by birth, who not long
+before had come to Lima to settle, and taught Natural Philosophy and
+Chemistry, accompanied me throughout the extensive building, and specially
+pointed out a class-room comfortably and even elegantly fitted up, as also
+a small museum of Natural History, with an excellent geological
+collection, and a small library attached to it. Singularly enough, the
+latter comprises a great number of school-books in much request among
+Protestant pedagogues. Apparently an order had been sent, without
+specifying any particular writers, to purchase good school-books at some
+German publishing-house, and now the Catholic youth of bigoted Lima is
+taught from the works of Protestant teachers! Various surveys and maps
+covered the walls of this class-room, all bearing evidence of their German
+origin in the names of publishers and places, most of them having been
+sent out from the distinguished house of Justus Perthes in Gotha.
+
+One very remarkable and characteristic incident occurred at the opening of
+the school, at which were present the President of the Republic, Don Ramon
+de Castella, so hated and dreaded for his despotism, together with several
+senators and deputies. The Rector, Don Miguel Estorch, laid considerable
+stress, in the course of his address, upon the importance of really
+effective schools in a State, and maintained that, when children are well
+brought up, there is no longer any need of so large sums being spent for
+police and standing army to keep up security and order in the country.
+This remark, which made a deep impression on all present, nevertheless
+gave much offence to the President, who rose and replied, in a tone of
+considerable asperity, that the Rector's view was erroneous, and that a
+proper military force was as indispensable as a good system of education;
+that it least of all became the Rector to touch upon such a topic in that
+place and such presence.
+
+Under the present political _regime_, it is out of the question to look
+for anything like intellectual vigour in Lima, so sparse are the elements
+of such. There is an utter absence of that sympathy, interest, and support
+which is necessary to its existence, alike on the part of Government and
+of society at large.[136] Works, such as Manuel Fuentes' valuable
+"Estadistica General de Lima" (General Statistics of Lima), can only be
+considered as solitary special performances. Also in the field of
+Journalism there is no person of mark visible, and even the few journals
+which appear in Lima, such as the _Comercio_ and the _Independiente_, have
+a very limited circulation. As only a small proportion of the population
+can read or interest itself in politics, the principles advocated in those
+journals exercise no influence, so that Government has less difficulty in
+acting up to them than would otherwise be the case.
+
+One thing that particularly struck me was the hostility displayed to
+Austria, which, during my stay in Lima, manifested itself in the daily
+press and a fraction of the population. The politics of Austria were
+discussed with a bitterness of hate, which was the more surprising in a
+nation which is itself a prey to intestine disorders, and suffers itself
+to be led about a willing captive, in the fetters of a half-Indian despot.
+I found, however, the clue to this excited language, when I learned on one
+occasion, that there are upwards of 8000 Piedmontese in Lima and Callao
+alone, chiefly shop-keepers and shipping-owners, who exercise a certain
+influence upon the native population. The war in Europe had so raised anew
+the pride of country in each Italian, and filled him with such sanguine
+patriotic aspirations and hopes of a united Italy, that his heated fancy
+beheld in every incident of the war the most righteous struggle that ever
+was engaged in, and in the opposite party the most detestable and inhuman
+of opponents.
+
+Among such an auditory as those in which such opinions were ventilated,
+there was no difficulty in finding adherents. The ignorance of the native
+population respecting all countries on the other side of the Andes became
+conspicuously evident in the course of the discussion. Of Italy and her
+plains they had at least heard tell, since Peru maintains a pretty active
+trade with Genoa. If I am not mistaken, the great revolutionary leader and
+popular idol of Italy was once captain of a ship along the Peruvian coast,
+and left here many a friend and well-wisher to his cause and himself. Of
+Austria, on the other hand, there were simply dim rumours flitting about
+as of some shadowy land, or the vanished empire of the Incas. Singular to
+say, it was precisely the renowned Concordat made with the Papacy which
+had brought such discredit on Austrian policy among the Roman Catholic
+population. I dare not repeat here the strong language which was used, not
+alone in the journals but to myself personally, by educated Peruvians and
+foreigners settled here.
+
+In fact, all the misery that Peru has suffered since its subjugation by
+the Spaniards, and its present drooping condition, is here universally
+ascribed to the overwhelming influence of Spanish monks and priests in
+secular affairs. It has not yet been forgotten that monks stood at the
+head of the Inquisition,--that for centuries the people groaned under
+their oppressive sway. Conscious of their own fate, and the condition to
+which the clerical weapons reduced the puerile half-civilized races which
+inhabit Mexico and Central America, the lively imagination of the
+Peruvians led to consequences resulting from such a state-policy far more
+disastrous than could possibly be the case among a free-souled people like
+the Austrians. For it is the chief merit of European civilization, that
+every political measure threatening to impede the march of ideas by any
+process of fettering men's minds, only serves to evoke a more restless
+activity, as in our actual state of human culture enlightenment and
+science form far too formidable a bulwark for reaction to obtain any
+permanent success, or even to succeed in overleaping.
+
+Among the excursions which I made during my stay in Peru, there were two
+of special interest,--a ride to the ruins of Cajamarquilla, and a visit to
+the Temple of the Sun at Pachacamac, the erection of which dates from a
+period antecedent to the dynasty of the Incas.
+
+The ruins of Cajamarquilla are about nine English miles distant from the
+capital. Owing to the insecurity of life and property even in the region
+immediately around the capital, these ruins are but rarely visited. But
+very few strangers settled in Lima knew these ruins, and it required a
+long time ere I could procure the slightest information respecting them.
+My excellent host, Mr. Braun, who very soon perceived how much my heart
+was set on visiting these ancient Indian ruins, exerted himself to make up
+a party for me. It was a piece of real friendliness undertaken with the
+very kindest intentions, but unfortunately scientific objects do not
+usually admit of being mixed up with pleasure-parties, it being very
+difficult to unite the two. About twenty horsemen, chiefly English, had
+assembled to make the excursion. Among our company there were also a few
+ladies, whom the difficulties and dangers could not deter from joining
+us. As we had to take with us provisions for the entire party, a string of
+mules heavily laden with prog had been sent off early in the morning to
+the goal of our excursion. These preparations seemed to be by far the most
+important in the eyes of a majority of the cavalcade, after their arrival
+at the ruins themselves, an examination of which was evidently the last
+thing they had thought of when they bestrode their steeds in the morning.
+
+The road to the ruins of Cajamarquilla is excessively fatiguing, rough,
+and rocky: nothing but climbing over rocky hills, upon which close to the
+very edge of the precipice is a faint Indian track, or crossing torrents,
+where the horse sinks to his crupper in the water, so that only a
+practised horseman can save himself from a thorough soaking.
+
+Immediately on leaving the city begins a tract of desolate sterile
+stone-fields, in the midst of which one reaches what is known as the
+Hacienda de Pedrero, a lonely farm, where, it being as usual a fete-day of
+some Peruvian saint, a dozen field labourers had collected under the
+shadow of the verandah round the farm-house, blissfully occupied in doing
+nothing. No two of these were of the same breed; there were men of every
+variety of race and shade of colour; whites, Indians, Chinese, Negroes,
+Mulattoes, Mestizoes, Chinos, Sambos, Quadroons, &c. &c., and this
+specimen in little of the population of Peru would lead any observer to
+conjecture correctly as to the main reason of the low position held by the
+country in the scale of nations. As in the Hacienda of San Pedrero, so
+throughout the country one encounters fifty coloured men of all shades for
+one full-blooded white. In Chile, on the other hand, one has to penetrate
+deep into the interior before one finds any traces of the Indian stock,
+while of negro population, (and this is the greatest advantage enjoyed by
+that Republic over Peru,) there is absolutely none. In the settled parts
+along the coast of Chile there are none but whites, and even the working
+classes are Spaniards, English, German, Italians, and North Americans. The
+preponderating white element in the population, their greater
+intelligence, energy, and perseverance, form the principal source of that
+intellectual and political activity which has placed Chile far in advance
+of the other Southern and Central-American Republics, and is opening a
+brilliant future to that State, far surpassing that of any of the
+neighbouring republics.
+
+From the Hacienda de San Pedrero it is half an hour's ride to that of
+Guachipa and the Neveria of Don Pablo Sassio, where we engaged a guide,
+who accompanied us a couple of miles further to the goal of our excursion.
+
+Cajamarquilla is an ancient Peruvian hamlet in the valley of and close to
+the river Rimac, which waters the whole district and makes it productive.
+The remains of the dwellings are built exclusively of sun-dried bricks,
+and the laying out of each single apartment differs little from the mode
+of constructing Indian huts at the present day. It must to all appearance
+have been an extensive place once, as the ruins cover eight to ten acres.
+Considering the little space which the Indian of the present day requires
+for his household gods, it may be assumed that this was a place of from
+30,000 to 40,000 inhabitants. I saw no buildings of very remarkable
+dimensions, nor indeed any one the laying out of which designated it as
+once intended for religious purposes. The ruins are for the most part,
+relics of simple mud-huts, all similarly laid out in single chambers,
+differing from each other mainly in the greater or less dimensions of the
+apartments. Nothing here told of the existence of any buildings intended
+for public meetings, temples for worship, sacrificial altars, &c., such as
+one meets with in the ruined cities of Central America, in Copan,
+Quirigua, Peten, Palenque, and so forth. One perceives that each of these
+huts, like those inhabited by the Indians at the present day, consisted of
+two compartments, the entire superficial area being from 36 to 42 feet
+square. The larger of the two apartments is about 60 feet, the smaller
+from 12 to 18 feet in width and depth. Nowhere could we discern a trace of
+that special construction which is observable among the Indian races of
+the high lands of Guatemala, and is there usually employed for taking
+vapour-baths (Temaskal.)
+
+To form any notion of the antiquity of these buildings is doubly difficult
+in a climate where it never rains and the temperature is the same
+throughout the year, and where consequently buildings are not exposed to
+the destructive alternations of cold, damp, and scorching heat, as in
+other less favoured countries. Even earthquakes are here not so much to be
+dreaded as where houses are of brick or stone, since the Adoba possesses
+far more elasticity than intractable building material, and is therefore
+better able to withstand the repeated undulations of the earth's surface.
+
+The site of the town, which lies in a long deep valley surrounded on all
+sides by hills of the most fantastic shape, rising to a height of from
+8000 to 10,000 feet, is exceedingly grand. Unfortunately when we visited
+it, all the peaks and hills of the country around were naked, barren, and
+bleak-looking. But in winter after the first dews have fallen, those
+slopes and table-lands that now looked so desolate are covered with dense
+deep-green verdure, when they make a far more agreeable impression on the
+beholder.
+
+Of trees I saw only a few kinds of bamboo and acacia, which, more
+spreading than lofty, were visible in the swampy ground along the edges of
+the torrents. Some of the hills around seem at first sight like artificial
+fortifications, but when we approach closer there is not the slightest
+indication of Cajamarquilla having ever been a fort or place of defence.
+To all appearance the spot, at the time of the Spaniards first coming to
+Peru, was inhabited by the Quichua Indians, who afterwards either
+abandoned voluntarily their peaceful abodes through dread of their
+pursuers, or were driven thence by violence. None of the present
+inhabitants of the vicinity, to whom I spoke, could give us any definite
+information as to the ancient history of the ruins, and one hoary Indian,
+named Pablo Plata, who lives in the village of Guachipa, and remembers
+some wild traditions respecting Cajamarquilla, which he received by word
+of mouth from preceding generations, I unfortunately missed seeing owing
+to the shortness of my stay.
+
+Quite close to the remains of the town, is at present a large Hacienda,
+with magnificent clover pasturages, fertilized by the river Rimac. It was
+at one of these green oases that our company sat down to a comfortable
+pic-nic, which spoke volumes for the preparations that had been made for
+creature comforts. No small portion of what had been brought with us was
+left on the field, to be gobbled up by the clouds of negroes that crowded
+round, glad of the opportunity of tasting something cooked in the European
+fashion, though they do not like them as well as the product of their own
+wretched native kettles. Thus, for example, our guide, a negro, preferred
+vegetables and _dulce_ (sweets) to meat, and declared sherry and cognac
+offered him to be "too strong."
+
+If not in ease and comfort, at any rate in scientific interest, I found my
+excursion to Cajamarquilla surpassed by that made to Pachacamac in the
+valley of Lurin, which I made in company with some friend, and in the
+course of which I stayed behind the rest of my party, in company with the
+flag-lieutenant of the since world-renowned frigate _Merrimac_.
+
+My visit to Pachacamac was, however, in so far less interesting than that
+to Cajamarquilla, that the greater part of the road, as far as Chorillos,
+was accomplished by railroad, the remainder of the way being over sand
+barrens, abhorred by both steed and rider.
+
+Chorillos, about nine miles from Lima, and a favourite watering-place of
+the inhabitants of the capital, with salt-water baths and gaming-tables,
+lies in a small romantic cove, but is of rather difficult access, owing to
+the steep sand-hills which, 150 to 200 feet in height, bar all access from
+seaward. Formerly the ride to Chorillos, like that from Callao to the
+capital, was performed under considerable difficulty and danger, whence it
+has not seldom resulted that visitors to the watering-place, who have made
+money at the tables of Chorillos, have on their homeward ride to Lima been
+eased of their winnings by some of their previous companions over the
+board of green cloth! At present one bowls thither over a well-made road,
+easily and without dread of being called on to "stand and deliver," since,
+even in Peru, people have not yet succeeded in amalgamating railroads and
+robbery.
+
+The little place itself boasts of a few good dwelling-houses, and some 100
+to 150 Ranchos of wood and _adobes_, or constructed of mud and reeds, in
+which delectable abodes the good folk from the capital are content to pass
+the hottest and most unhealthy months of the year (from January to May).
+These Ranchos, very unsightly without and exceedingly poorly furnished,
+are sometimes most habitable within-doors, and fitted with delightful
+verandahs or open porches, in which the free-and-easy occupants loll
+about in grass hammocks or rocking-chairs, fanned by the cool sea-breezes,
+in a state of dreamy _dolce-far-niente_. Altogether Chorillos is a very
+unpretending and altogether uncomfortable place, in which there is little
+room for elegancy or self-assertion, the President of the Republic himself
+occupying a wretched, dirty Rancho. Don Ramon passes most of his time in
+the gaming-room, where he is a much-desired and most welcome guest, on
+account of the large sums which he is in the habit of wagering.
+
+On a lovely June morning, about 6.30 A.M., we rode out of Chorillos, and
+three hours later reached the ancient Pachacamac,[137] a Quichua village
+close to the sea-shore, with the temple of the Sun there existent at a
+period antecedent to the Incas, and which was afterwards dedicated by the
+Incas to the service of the invisible God. These ruins are much older than
+those of Cajamarquilla. They are partly of clay-tile, but by far the
+largest part consists of hewn stone, held together by mortar, the whole
+presenting, even in its ruined state, a lasting and massive aspect. Of the
+temple which once stood here, there is, however, no trace at present
+visible beyond mere indistinct traces of the foundation.
+
+In the midst of a spacious Indian village there is seen a hill about 400
+feet high, with artificial terraces in regular gradation, and surrounded
+by lofty walls, that look as though they had been battlemented. On this
+rising ground once stood the temple which the Yuncas had built in honour
+of their chief god. Somewhat later, when this wild race had been subdued
+by the Incas, these consecrated the temple in honour of the Sun, flung out
+the idols of the Yuncas, and designed a number of royal virgins for its
+service. Pizarro, however, completed the work of destruction, when, with
+his fanatical followers, he penetrated, in 1534, into the valley of Lurin,
+hitherto the most populous and peacefully prosperous of the entire
+Peruvian coast. The villages were laid waste, the temple overthrown, and
+its virgin priestesses delivered over to the brutal soldiery, and
+afterwards put to death.
+
+Quite close to the ruins, as they lie scattered along the coast, the
+island of Pachacamac, or Morosolar, rises from the bottom of the ocean,
+scarcely accessible owing to its steep, precipitous sides, and on which
+there is not a single architectural memorial of any sort to be found, as
+erroneously stated, or copied, by several authors.
+
+From the summit of the hill the visitor finds a surprising landscape,
+stretching over the beautiful and fertile valley of Lurin; it is difficult
+to imagine a more vivid and delightful contrast than is presented by the
+greyish-brown, sandy, far-extending ruins, and the soft verdure of the
+surrounding plain, variegated with the hues of every description of
+tropical plant. The attention is further arrested by the singularity of
+the abounding vegetation beginning close to the sea, where sugar-cane and
+grass flourish in the most luxuriant superabundance, while scarcely a
+half-mile distant the landscape resumes the barren, sandy features, which
+extend for miles inland. Not till the Lurin valley is reached does the
+magnificence of tropical vegetation again enliven the scene.
+
+After a cursory examination of the locality, we passed the night at an
+adjoining _Hacienda_, a large sugar plantation and refinery, which employs
+180 Chinese coolies. Each Chinese labourer receives rations of rice and
+vegetables, besides four dollars a month, and binds himself to stay eight
+years with his employer, to repay the latter's outlay for his voyage, &c.
+The speculator, however, who imports the coolies from the northern
+provinces of China receives a premium of 300 dollars for every coolie
+imported. The Chinese whom we saw at Lurin, as indeed all those we
+encountered throughout Peru, were very filthy and depressed-looking, but
+seemed in good health, and, on the whole, better off than in Brazil or the
+West Indies. We were told that two Chinese will not get through so much
+work as one negro. There are at present about 10,000 Chinese in Peru, who
+have been imported by speculators during the last ten years, to some of
+whom their deportation has been a vast benefit, since, after their eight
+years' service, they are free, and may and do begin to work zealously on
+their own account. In Peru, as in the Indies, Java, and indeed wherever
+they are employed, the Chinese cling close to each other, and mutually
+assist each other, should any of their number fall into poverty.
+
+The following morning early we paid a second visit to the ruins of
+Pachacamac, and took with us from the Hacienda a number of negroes, with
+working implements, for the purpose of digging up and examining the
+graves. At various points, especially close to the hill on which stands
+what probably was once a fort, we found a great number of skulls lying
+about. Most of those we picked up had been artificially compressed, though
+they did not all seem to have had the pressure applied at the same place,
+thus affording unmistakeable proof that artificial pressure had been
+resorted to here. Many of the skulls, though they had been interred for
+centuries, were still thickly covered with hair. There cannot be a doubt
+that most of those buried here belonged to the race which occupied this
+part of the country when the Spaniards first visited it, for after the
+occupation and the subsequent wholesale baptisms which the proselytizing
+monks performed upon the ignorant brown natives in droves, it is
+improbable that any of the Christianized Indians would thereafter be
+interred in unconsecrated earth.
+
+The Peruvian Indians, as is well known, were accustomed to envelope their
+dead in coarse cloths, after which they were buried in basket or
+sack-shaped straw-plait work, certain objects and utensils being placed by
+their side, preference being given to those the deceased had most used in
+life. Thus, fish-nets, baskets, &c., were placed in the grave, and in the
+case of a chief, weapons, staffs with golden knobs, pots of wood or burnt
+earth, and so forth. The head usually reposes on a sort of pillow of grass
+or cotton. I brought away with me from Pachacamac about half a dozen of
+the most remarkably shaped of these skulls, as also some portions of
+mummified corpses, which the negroes had disinterred in my presence. All
+these objects were in excellent preservation, about three or four feet
+under the surface, some in simple graves, others in longish sepulchres of
+hewn stone, such as we might imagine were occupied by the wealthier class
+of the community. It is usual to find several skeletons (probably members
+of the same family) in each separate grave. I also found layers of woven
+stuffs, some of very superior design and finish, interposed between
+various corpses.
+
+While the negroes were engaged in further excavations, I once more
+ascended the hill on which the Temple of the Sun must once have stood, and
+which to this day is called by the neighbouring inhabitants "_Castillo del
+Sol_." On the side next the sea, there are still visible a number of
+buttresses, which seem as though they had formed part of an older line of
+fortifications. There was nothing resembling a sacrificial altar, or to
+tell of the religious ceremonies that must once have been performed here.
+Here and there the material of the wall was still covered with a reddish
+tint, just as if it had been but recently painted. In several portions of
+the wall still standing, there were pieces of wood alternating with layers
+of mortar, now quite decayed, and affording unmistakeable evidence of the
+antiquity of the buildings. We also remarked in the walls of several of
+the Indian huts niche-shaped depressions, about 1-1/2 feet deep by 1-1/2
+feet in length and width, the use of which has never been even plausibly
+conjectured. While the whole of the buildings of Cajamarquilla consisted
+of sun-dried tiles and bricks, those of Pachacamac seem to have been
+almost entirely built of stone hewn into the shape of tiles. So much of
+the wall as still remains is very strong and solid. According to tradition
+the walls of ancient Pachacamac once stretched as far as Cuzco, 240 miles
+distant E.N.E.!
+
+The proprietor of the sugar plantation in the Lurin valley told me that he
+himself, about ten years previous, had seen mummies disinterred in the
+neighbourhood of Pachacamac, in the mouths of which were gold ornaments,
+while various objects were buried with them, such as small idols of gold
+and silver, staffs with golden buttons, earthen jars and vessels filled
+with Chicha (the well-known favourite intoxicating drink of the Indians),
+and fruits, the Chicha and fruits having remained in a wonderful state of
+preservation.[138]
+
+On our way back to Chorillos we passed the beautifully situated village of
+Susco, environed with neat country-houses, which was a favourite summer
+retreat of the inhabitants of Lima, before Chorillos reached its present
+development. At present Susco is dreary and forsaken-looking.
+
+When I reached Lima on my return from this interesting excursion, I had
+only a few days more left before I was to take steamer again _en route_ to
+Panama, which I employed in riding about to examine all that was best
+worth seeing in the environs, and making a few parting calls.
+
+One of the finest promenades in Lima is the _Alameda Nueva_, opened about
+two years previous, which lies on the road to Amancaes on the further bank
+of the Rimac, which divides the city into two unequal parts, of which,
+however, far the larger one, constituting indeed the city proper, lies on
+the left or southern bank. After the romantic descriptions I had read of
+the Rimac, I found myself woefully undeceived by the reality. Of the
+thundering rapids below the bridge, of which Castelnau gives us such a
+picturesque sketch, I found not a trace visible, the greater part of the
+river-bed, 150 to 200 feet wide, being quite dry, with a wretched little
+driblet of water trickling through it. The season of the year may,
+however, have contributed to this disenchanting prospect, and in August
+and September, when the melting snows and violent rain-storms of the
+neighbouring Cordilleras swell the brooks and rivers, they possibly impart
+a more imposing and lively aspect to the Rimac. The stone bridge over the
+river, which forms the communication with the suburb of San Lazaro, is a
+handsome structure, built in 1638-1640, from the designs of an Augustine
+monk, and cost nearly half a million dollars.
+
+The _Alameda Nueva_ consists of a long, wide lane, with pretty garden
+nurseries and flower-beds on either side, interspersed with tasteful
+marble statues life-size, the whole enclosed in an elegant iron railing
+richly ornamented. In the winter season, more particularly (June to
+September), this beautiful promenade is in great request, when, after a
+few heavy falls of dew, the hills and valleys of the environs are covered
+with verdure of the most delicate shades, and the residents of the capital
+wander through the lovely glades of Amancaes, which is so overrun with the
+yellow blossoms of the Amaryllis (_Ismene Hamancaes_ of Herbert), that
+this fine plant has given its name to the whole valley. On such occasions
+quite a colony of booths is extemporized, where eatables and drinkables
+are consumed, and giants and dwarfs, panoramas and art-saloons, are
+thronged with visitors, while ballad-singers, musicians, rope-dancers,
+mountebanks, jugglers, gamblers, and thieves, are never weary of plying
+their various trades, to the lightening of the purses of the
+pleasure-seeking crowds.
+
+Of public amusements and places of resort there are but few in Lima, and
+these not of a very refined description. The theatre is an old and
+downright ugly building, where Spanish comedians play indifferent pieces.
+An Italian operatic company proved a failure owing to want of subscribers,
+even the highest talent barely succeeding in gaining sufficient to charter
+a ship to carry the _troupe_ back to Europe. The sole amusement, which
+never fails to collect a delighted multitude, is a bull-fight. These come
+off at intervals during the summer in the Plaza del Acho, in an uncovered
+amphitheatre specially built for the purpose, and constructed of sun-dried
+brick. On these days all Lima is in a state of excitement, and an
+incalculable crowd of curious sight-seers of both sexes are hastening
+through the Alameda Nueva to the arena, there to gloat over the bloody
+scene. Fully 12,000 to 15,000 human beings throng into the confined area;
+each hastily deposits his half dollar (2_s._) of entrance-money, so as to
+get the chance of a better seat. One would think it must be to a splendid
+soul-elevating drama that they are flocking to listen to, whereas it is
+but the torture of a wretched herbivore that excites their depraved
+curiosity. The reader will excuse me for not reiterating the loathsome
+details of an often-told spectacle.
+
+It is a fact of considerable historic interest that bull-fights are now
+confined to the Spaniards and to their coloured descendants, in the
+various regions of the globe whither her dominion has extended, and it
+seems but a fit pendent, that the laws of the same nation should, in the
+latter half of the nineteenth century, condemn to the galleys Roman
+Catholics who venture to embrace Protestantism.
+
+We wish here to add one single remark of our own on a feature of the
+entertainment which we have not seen mentioned elsewhere, viz. what
+becomes of the flesh of the animals thus killed. It is forthwith cut up in
+quarters quite close to the arena, and sold at a reduced price to the
+populace, although it is a well-known physiological fact, that the meat of
+any animal killed in a state of rabid agony cannot be eaten without
+prejudice to the health. The negroes, however, erroneously maintain that
+meat thus killed is far more tender than that of cattle slaughtered in the
+ordinary mode, and the Government of Republican Peru finds it best to
+leave each to decide the physiology of the question by his own digestive
+powers.
+
+Of the state of society in Lima I have little to say. A stranger finds it
+difficult to obtain a footing among the better families, especially if his
+stay be as limited as mine necessarily was. The high-pressure existence of
+the capital has of late years obliterated much of its former originality
+and poetry. He who saw Lima twenty years ago would hardly recognize it
+now-a-days. The "Saya" and the "Manto," those singular but in Lima once
+indispensable articles of apparel of the Limanas, which enabled them like
+masks to attend church or market, to join processions, in short, never
+left their face in the street or at the promenade, have entirely
+disappeared, and with them have necessarily gone many other peculiar
+habits and customs. Formerly no lady durst venture into the street without
+a "Saya" or "Manto;" now, on the contrary, she would run the risk of being
+insulted, or at least stared at, should she appear in public in this
+peculiar mask-like disguise. The ancient usages peculiar to the country
+must give way to French manners; the Saya, the close-fitting, usually
+black or cinnamon-coloured upper garment, which once was the customary
+attire, and consequently rendered a more careful toilette unnecessary, has
+made way for the voluminous crinolined silk dress, while the Manto, that
+heavy veil of a thick black silken material, which was thrown over the
+back, shoulders, and head, and drawn so close that there was only a small
+triangular space left through which peeped one eye, has been displaced by
+the long black head-dress which the Spanish women are accustomed to wear.
+
+The ladies of Lima are usually of elegant, slight, graceful appearance,
+their chief attractions being brilliant complexion, large dark gleaming
+eyes, dazzling white teeth, rich black hair, and very neat little feet.
+They greatly reminded me of the Havana ladies, with whom they have much in
+common so far as regards the passion for personal adornment, while in
+figure and intelligent expression of face both lag far behind the ladies
+of Chile.
+
+The gentlemen of Lima, by which term I allude chiefly to the white Creoles
+or pure descendants of the Spaniards, who constitute about one-third of
+the population,[139] do not leave that impression of a splendid future
+resulting from a prosperous development of the resources of the country,
+which might be reasonably expected if there were more intellectual
+movement, and more industrial and commercial activity apparent among their
+number. The state of affairs in Peru since its separation from Spain in
+1822, the constant squabbles and civil wars, as also the fact that a mere
+mestizo, like Ramon Castilla, devoid of intellectual or moral
+pre-eminence, should have succeeded in getting himself declared President
+for life of the Republic,[140] are the best proofs of the political and
+moral degradation of the Republic of Peru. All the splendid territories
+from Peru to Mexico have, after three centuries of Spanish rule, sunk into
+a state of demoralization and degeneracy, owing to the listless,
+labour-hating, sluggish mestizo races that inhabit it, such as only the
+immigration of one of the hardy northern races can ever adequately remedy.
+In a previous visit to Central America, I have wandered through its rich
+scenery, clad in the hues of perpetual summer, and smiling in exuberance
+of fertility, and everywhere the same impression was made upon me. Almost
+the only effect this wealth of nature seems to exercise upon the Indian or
+negro mestizo is to incapacitate him from mastering by any effort of his
+own the lethargy that preys upon him. Where a few rare exceptions occur,
+as, for instance, in Costa Rica, in which a sounder policy is preserved,
+it is invariably found that they are of purer Spanish descent than their
+sister republics in tropical South America.[141]
+
+Owing to their political organization, these various states can scarcely
+fail to be powerfully affected by the impulses of our time. They have no
+other prospect than that of becoming either an integral portion of the
+immense North American Federation, or of once more being consolidated into
+a monarchy under the sceptre of some scion of a European royal family. In
+all probability, whether they be North Americans, or English, or Germans,
+they will always be children of some of a more powerful race, who must
+ultimately subvert the races of the Southern type, awaken a new spirit of
+energy, and so carry out that which the lazy mixed races of the present
+time have neither the power nor the inclination to effect. An immigration
+of stilled Northerners can alone raise these countries politically and
+commercially, develope their natural resources, and restore them to the
+grade of civilized states.
+
+One of the most important as well as useful plants of Peru, and with
+samples of which I provided myself on leaving Peru, for the purpose of
+future analysis, is the Coca (_Erythroxylon Coca_), the leaves of which
+mixed with chalk or ashes of plants, form so important an article of diet
+as well as a masticatory among some Indian races of Peru and Bolivia.
+Before I left Europe one of our most celebrated German pharmacologists,
+M. Woehler of Goettingen, expressed to me his wish to procure a considerable
+quantity of coca leaves, to enable him to analyze more completely than had
+as yet been done the chemical constituents of this remarkable plant, and I
+therefore made it a duty to take measures for procuring the requisite
+supply. Although the wonderful stimulant properties of the coca had for
+more than half a century been known to European travellers, the leaves of
+the plant, which flourishes best on the eastern slopes of the Cordilleras
+of Peru and Bolivia, at an elevation of about 8000 feet, and a temperature
+of from 64 deg.4 to 68 deg. Fahr., have hitherto only reached Europe in very
+small quantities, having in fact been carried home simply as curiosities.
+It was reserved for one of the _Novara_ expedition to bring over as much
+as 60 lbs. weight for the purpose of investigation of its properties by
+German men of science. Half of this quantity I took to Europe among my own
+effects; the remainder was forwarded somewhat later, through the kindness
+of two German gentlemen resident in Lima, Messrs. C. Eggert and N.
+Linnich.
+
+So many, and in the main correct, accounts[142] have been published by
+travellers of the coca plant, its culture, its effect upon the system,
+and the marvels that have been achieved by its use, that I may well be
+excused from dwelling at length upon the habit which prevails among the
+Indians of chewing coca, or on its importance as a chief article of
+subsistence for several millions of our fellow-creatures. I may, however,
+mention certain instances which came within my own personal knowledge, as
+also a few statistical data relating to the annual consumption of coca in
+Peru and Bolivia, and the economical importance of this cultivation.
+
+A Scotchman named Campbell, who was settled as a merchant at Tacna in
+Bolivia, and with whom I travelled to Europe from Lima, informed me that a
+few years before, being engaged upon matters of urgent business, he had
+performed in one day a distance of 90 English miles on mule-back, and
+throughout that long distance had been accompanied by an Aymara Indian,
+who kept up easily with the mule, without other refreshment than a few
+grains of roasted maize and coca leaves, which, mingled with undissolved
+chalk, he chewed incessantly. On reaching the station where he was to pass
+the night, Mr. Campbell, though mounted on an excellent animal, found
+himself greatly fatigued; the guide, on the other hand, _after he had
+stood on his head for a few minutes_,[143] and had drank a glass of
+brandy, set off without further delay on his homeward journey!!
+
+In April, 1859, Mr. Campbell despatched a native from La Paz to Tacna, a
+distance of 249 English miles, which the Indian accomplished in four days.
+He rested one day at Tacna, and set off the following morning on his
+return journey, in the course of which he had to cross a pass 13,000 feet
+in height. It would seem that throughout the whole of this immense journey
+on foot, he followed the Indian custom of taking no other sustenance than
+a little roasted maize and coca leaves, which he carried in a little pouch
+at his side, and chewed from time to time.[144]
+
+Like other experienced travellers, Mr. Campbell, who has lived over 14
+years in Bolivia, is of opinion that a moderate use of coca exercises no
+prejudicial influence upon the general health, but simply tends to make
+the Indian races of the higher regions of the Andes more capable of
+continued laborious work. Many coca-chewers attain a great age, and Mr.
+Campbell knew one such, who had taken part in the insurrection of
+Tupac-Amaru in 1781, and at the time of my visit, 1859, was still in full
+possession of all his faculties. In short, as in the case of opium and
+wine, it would seem that it is only the abuse of coca that is followed by
+evil consequences.
+
+The coca is less cultivated in Peru than in Bolivia, and the leaves are
+not in such request among the Quichua as among the Aymara Indians.[145]
+As the Government of Bolivia draws a very handsome revenue from coca
+cultivation, a tax of five reals, about one shilling, being levied on
+every _cesto_, or about 25 lbs. English, there is a better opportunity of
+getting at the correct amount of the entire production than in Peru, where
+the plant is grown free of duty. The coca tax realizes in all in Bolivia
+300,000 _pesos_ or dollars (about L75,000), so that the entire annual
+product is about 480,000 _cestos_ or 1,200,000 lbs. The _cesto_ is worth
+at La Paz from 7 to 9 _pesos_, but when employed in large quantities for
+export, it cost about 10 dollars, placed on board ship. Altogether the
+coca crop of Bolivia may reasonably be estimated at rather less than
+700,000 _cestos_, equal to about 78,000 tons.
+
+The analysis to which the coca leaves I brought home with me were
+subjected at Goettingen, was attended by most important results, though the
+experiments are far from being completed. It was reserved for one of the
+assistants of the chemical laboratory, named Albert Niemann, to discover
+in the leaves a peculiar crystallized organic base, to which, following
+the usual custom in such cases, the name Cocain has been given.[146]
+
+The lamented death of Dr. Albert Niemann in the flower of his youth, and
+in the midst of his promising labours, necessarily interrupted for a time
+the investigations into the nature and properties of cocain. M. Woehler,
+however, in his capacity of Director of the Chemical Laboratory of the
+University, was so good as to assign to another able assistant, Mr. W.
+Lossen, the task of taking up the analysis at the point where its gifted
+discoverer had left it, when it was found that, when heated in chlorine,
+the cocain underwent a singular and astonishing metamorphosis, being in
+fact resolved into Benzoic acid and a new organic base, for which M.
+Woehler proposes the name of Ecgonin (from [Greek: Echgonos] an off-shoot).
+Further researches with the coca leaves lead to the discovery of a second
+organic base, which, it would appear, is contained in its primitive form
+in the coca, the composition of which will be treated of in a forthcoming
+paper by Mr. Lossen. This base is in a liquid form, for which the
+provisional name hygrin (from [Greek:hugros], fluid) has been
+adopted.[147]
+
+Hitherto the experiments made to determine the physiological properties of
+cocain have been less important in their results, as it is only found in
+small quantities in the coca leaf, and an adequate quantity can only be
+obtained with great trouble and difficulty.[148] Consequently it is as yet
+impossible to decide the questions, whether one of these bases is stronger
+than the other, as also to which of the two are to be ascribed the
+peculiar properties of the plant. Singular enough, the various experiments
+with an effusion of the coca leaves had not the least result, while it is
+well known that the use of this kind of tea in the Cordilleras wonderfully
+stimulates the breathing powers of the traveller, besides satisfying his
+appetite.[149] It would also appear that the coca leaves lose part of
+their virtue in transit, and that their most intense activity is only
+developed in their native regions. If, however, the ultimate results of
+the experiments of Mr. Lossen, instituted with as much sagacity as zeal,
+should incontestably prove the value and utility of the plant for
+pharmaceutical purposes, as well as in all cases where the human strength
+is exposed to unwonted strains upon its energies, the means will surely
+and easily be found for extracting _on the spot_ the active principles of
+coca, as is being at present done by industrious Yankees in Ecuador, with
+the Cinchona or China bark.
+
+When the _Novara_ was leaving Batavia, I cherished the hope that our stay
+in South America would be sufficiently prolonged to admit of my making an
+excursion to the Cinchona forests, so as to enable me to speak
+authoritatively and from personal knowledge upon certain questions
+discussed at Lembang with Dr. Junghuhn,[150] which had hitherto been left
+unsettled or altogether unexamined, and which were of such deep import to
+the attempts being made in Java to cultivate the Cinchona. Circumstances,
+however, had conspired to render this impracticable. Instead of the entire
+expedition, as originally projected, visiting that classic region, it was
+reserved to myself, a solitary individual, to tread the scenes, where
+Humboldt once collected the first valuable contributions to science, and
+even then my time was so limited that my attention had to be confined to
+the capital of Peru, and the neighbouring country. Under these
+circumstances such a project as a regular scientific excursion deep into
+the heart of the Cinchona forests was entirely out of the question. I did
+not fail, however, to translate into Spanish and English, the disputed
+points which Dr. Junghuhn had requested me to ascertain for him, so that I
+might obtain such information upon these interesting questions from such
+of the friends I made in Peru or Chile as seemed likely, either in their
+own persons or by the opportunities for natural studies that might happen
+to characterize their place of residence, to advance our knowledge of the
+Cinchona tree and its cultivation. My different efforts to obtain reliable
+information on the cultivation of the China bark tree in its mother
+country were especially promoted by my having met, while at Lima, with Mr.
+Campbell, who, during the many years he has been settled at Tacna, has
+paid especial attention to the China bark trade. For the chief export of
+this important medicament is in the hands of the Bolivians, and not of the
+Peruvians, as the uninitiated might imagine from the name it is usually
+known by in commerce, viz. Peruvian bark.[151]
+
+The most important facts which I am here enabled to dwell upon relate to
+the correction of a widespread misconception, that owing to the thirst for
+plunder and the wilful neglect of the China tree in its own native
+regions, the supply of the valuable drug obtained from its bark, the
+well-known Countess'[152] or Jesuit bark, which to the practical physician
+is of scarcely less importance than the potato to the labouring man, is
+daily diminishing. The Calisaya region (i. e. the limits within which the
+C. Calisaya, the species that furnishes the most valuable bark, is found
+in its finest and most abundant state) extends from about one degree north
+of Lake Titicaca, or from 14 deg. 30' to 20 deg. S. In the forests of Cochabamba,
+between which place and La Paz is the principal district of the China
+tree, the tree is more frequently found than in those running parallel on
+either side with La Paz, in which it is usually met with at such a
+distance from the capital that it becomes valueless, owing to the cost of
+transport, which is as high as 17 dollars per 100 lbs. The more southerly
+forests are still quite virgin, and have never re-echoed the blows of the
+Cascarilleros' axe. The largest quantity is exported from Tacna through
+the port of Arica, only a small portion being smuggled northwards from
+Lake Titicaca, for shipment _via_ Port d'Islay. According to statistics,
+from 8000 to 10,000 cwt. of bark may be thus exported for any lapse of
+time, without the slightest danger of the tree getting exterminated. Since
+1845 the exportation of bark from Bolivia has been a Government monopoly,
+which has farmed out the privilege to a private company, that used to pay
+a certain annual premium based on an export of 4000 cwt. The company paid
+the Cascarilleros or other persons who collected the bark, 25 dollars to
+30 dollars for every hundredweight of Calisaya delivered in La Paz, the
+capital of Bolivia. The enterprise, however, proved only partially
+successful, since speculation, avarice and the continual political
+troubles and alterations of the Government, have each and all proved sore
+enemies to the peaceful development of the industry of the country. Each
+new President had only one thought, viz. how to make the largest profit by
+seizing on the natural wealth of the country, and only sought to increase
+the export of the bark for the sake of the monopoly. In 1850 a native
+commercial house in La Paz paid the bark-gatherers 60 pesos for every 100
+lbs., besides a duty to Government of 25 pesos additional, at the same
+time paying on an estimated export of 7000 cwt. The exorbitant wage thus
+granted to the Cascarilleros resulted in an enormous quantity of Calisaya
+being brought to La Paz from all parts of Bolivia, In order to preserve
+the public tranquillity, and not glut the market, the Bolivian Government
+now prohibited entirely the cutting or collecting of bark. Within eighteen
+months about 1400 tons of bark were brought in, and this gave the
+monopolists a perfect dread lest they should have to declare themselves
+bankrupt, and it was indeed only through the intervention of Government
+that they escaped. The latter took the entire stock on their own hands,
+paid the speculators with Treasury bonds, redeemable within a given number
+of years, and made a fresh contract with a native firm, which stipulated
+that the price at La Paz should be 65 dollars per 100 lbs., without
+further export duty.
+
+As soon as the stock in hand was exhausted, the prohibition against
+cutting Calisaya had of course to be rescinded, and in the interim the
+most decided steps were taken to check the superfluous, indeed dangerous,
+zeal of the Cascarilleros in the collection of the bark.
+
+While I was in Java chemical experiments had begun to be made with the
+bark of the young China trees, and from the fact that the valuable
+alkaloid was not found in these, it was hastily inferred that the bark of
+the trees grown in their adopted country had, owing to the change effected
+in climatic and other conditions, been deprived of the principle that made
+them most valuable in their native land. But researches made in South
+America have satisfied me, that even in the indigenous forests of
+Cinchona, the active principle quinine is only found in the bark of older
+trees, and that its quantity is perceptibly affected by the age of the
+tree, the finest quinine being obtained in largest quantities from trees
+upwards of fifty years old. To ignorance of this peculiarity must also be
+attributed in all probability the fact that, at the period of the Spanish
+rule, the China collectors or hunters (_Cazadores de Quina_) used to fell
+annually 800 or 900 young trees of from four to seven years old, to get at
+the 110 cwts. of fever-bark, which, intended exclusively for the use of
+the royal house, were shipped every year from Paita, and thence round the
+Horn to Cadiz.[153]
+
+So, too, with respect to the quantities annually exported at present from
+Bolivia and Peru, and used in European stores, there remain serious errors
+to correct, prevalent even among scientific circles. According to the
+latest estimates (which take cognizance of seven inferior sorts), there
+have been exported, between 1830 and 1860, not more than 10,000 tons,
+while of Calisaya, the specially valuable red bark (_Cascarilla roja_),
+not above 120,000 cwt. have been exported in all during the same period.
+While the annual export thus dwindles in dimensions from what had
+generally been supposed, there has lately been discovered in large
+quantities, in the forests between Tarija, Cochabamba, and La Paz, a
+species of Cinchona, whose bark is said to possess very much the same
+properties as the Calisaya. The curate of Tarija has offered for sale 3000
+cwt. of this valuable bark (called by the Indians Sucupira). The position
+of the forests in which this species of Cinchona is found is so favourable
+for exportation, that the cost of transport from Tarija to Iquique, the
+nearest port, would only amount to from 8 to 10 dollars per quintal.
+
+The departure of the mail steamer from Callao de Lima was fixed for the
+afternoon of 12th June, when several of my friends were so kind as to
+accompany me on board. In Callao I paid a short visit to H.M.S. _Ganges_,
+and then the U.S. frigate _Merrimac_ (destined in less than three years to
+acquire a mournful renown in the horrors of civil war, as also
+imperishable celebrity as the pioneer of iron navies), one of the finest
+and most powerful screw-ships of the North American navy, armed at that
+time with 32 cannon, and of 960-horse power. I had had the pleasure of
+becoming acquainted with the officers of both ships, partly in Valparaiso,
+partly in Lima. On board the _Ganges_ I experienced a not less cordial
+and kind reception, and Admiral Baines, as commander-in-chief of the
+British fleet in the Pacific, did me the honour of granting me an official
+pass to all captains of British ships, setting forth my scientific
+pursuits, and recommending me to their particular attention.
+
+On the morning of the 14th June, the good steamer _Valparaiso_, commanded
+by that courteous model of a British sailor, Captain Bloomfield, reached
+Huanchaco, the principal harbour of Truxillo, which is only six miles
+distant, and was once the capital of the northern portion of the empire of
+the Incas. The export of silver, wool, and cochineal from this port is
+pretty considerable. Here came on board a Scotchman named Blackwood, who
+for some years past had been cultivating cochineal in Truxillo, but was
+now, as he confessed, unable any longer to compete in its production with
+other countries, in consequence of the price of labour being so high, and
+the uncertain state of labour-supply. Mr. Blackwood intended proceeding
+_via_ California to the East Indies, where he hoped to light upon a more
+suitable field for cochineal-growing, the cost of labour there being still
+low, and there existing a constantly-increasing demand for that
+substance[154].
+
+On the 15th June we anchored in the roads of San Jose de Lambajeque in the
+department of Chola. The position of this village is so unsuitable, that
+it is only possible to effect a landing by means of what are called
+_Balsas_(rafts with sails), consisting of huge thick trunks of trees bound
+together. One of these curious contrivances conveyed on shore in safety 76
+passengers at once, together with all their miscellaneous effects!
+
+Fifteen miles north of Lambajeque lies the Indian village of Iting
+(Repose), with 5000 inhabitants, whose language is totally different from
+the Quichua dialect, usually spoken in the province. One Peruvian on his
+return from his travels even went so far as to say that the idiom of the
+Iting Indians strongly resembled that of the Chinese! In Monsefu, not
+quite two miles from Iting, lives an Indian population which speaks
+nothing but Spanish, and consequently can neither understand nor be
+understood by its neighbours! This singular state of things almost
+entitles us to conjecture that the Spanish conquerors have adopted here
+the same tactics as those they put in practice in Central America, where
+they repeatedly were at the pains to introduce among the subjugated
+tribes, colonies of another race frequently hostile to the aborigines, in
+order by difference of customs and language to render any united action
+against the common enemy almost impossible. I have myself frequently
+observed in the Central-American State of San Salvador, that, for
+instance, the Tlascaltecas, who speak the language of Montezuma, had been
+settled in the midst of foreign races. Such colonizations have almost
+invariably been effected for political purposes, and were compulsory,
+instead of being undertaken voluntarily.
+
+On 16th June we anchored in the beautiful and sheltered harbour of Payta.
+The little town itself has about 4000 inhabitants, who carry on a pretty
+brisk trade with the interior and along the coast. The principal article
+of export is hides, especially goat-skins, chinchilla fur (_Eriomys
+Chinchilla_), cotton, fruit, oil, herb-archel (_Roccella tinctoria_--used
+occasionally as a medicine, but more commonly as a dye,--the well-known
+litmus, used for chemical test papers, being prepared from it), and straw
+hats. Forty-five miles distant from Payta, in a beautiful and fertile
+neighbourhood, lies the town of Piura with 10,000 inhabitants, which
+carries on an extensive trade in fruit and vegetables along the coast, and
+indeed supplies Lima with its excellent produce.
+
+Payta harbour is visited annually by from fifty to sixty whalers, who take
+in fresh provisions here, do their repairs, and give their crews a little
+repose after long and heavy labours. The climate is very healthy and
+exceedingly dry. At the same time there is no lack of good water, which
+the Indians bring to the city from the river Chirar, 18 miles distant, in
+casks on mule-back. This mode of transport is so cheap, that the erection
+of a distilling apparatus in Payta would not pay. The cargo of one mule,
+about 12 gallons, would sell for about 2 reals (about 1_s._ 5-1/2_d._).
+Ships take in their supplies of water at Tumbez, a little further north.
+
+When I was at Payta, there were some twenty merchant ships in the harbour.
+The trade of the place was evidently increasing. This was indicated not
+alone by the energy of the inhabitants, but by a general well-to-do air.
+Large, round, broad-brimmed straw hats are annually exported to the value
+of 400,000 dollars. Of goat-skins, the annual stock is about 1200 cwt.; of
+herb-archel from 1500 to 2000 cwt. There are also at Payta some very
+remunerative manufactures of castor oil (from the _Ricinus communis_), and
+its cognate from the pinon bean (_Jatropha curcas_), both of which are
+found in large quantities in the interior. By an iron machine worked by
+steam some 85 gallons of the oil are made daily, part of which is used in
+the country for lamps and in the preparation of soap; but by far the
+largest portion is exported to the United States.
+
+A few weeks before I reached Payta, there had been accidentally found in a
+cave among the bare sand-hills which form the naked desolate environs of
+the town, a quantity of maize, which was supposed to have formed part of a
+stock which had been placed here by the Incas. It was of a smaller kind
+than that grown at the present day. The grains, notwithstanding the
+centuries they had lain interred, were in very tolerable preservation. All
+along the coast nothing was spoken of but this incident, as though some
+great treasure had been discovered, whereas it was but some 60 lbs. of
+maize that were found. Moreover, the interest felt by the Indians in this
+_trouvaille_ had nothing to do with its historic suggestiveness, but
+because their readily-inflamed imagination prefigured boundless stores of
+maize yet to be lighted upon and made available, without their having to
+labour for them!
+
+In the course of the afternoon we left Payta, and next day sighted the
+island of La Plata, distant about 10 miles from the mainland. A tradition,
+constantly in the mouth of the people, to the effect that the ancient
+Incas buried here a large amount of treasure, has led to many formal
+expeditions having been dispatched to this island at various times, every
+one of which, however, proved abortive. We now began to find the
+temperature perceptibly rising; for a few hours it rose from 65 deg. to 76 deg.
+Fahr.
+
+At 6 P.M. of the 20th, we reached the Taboga Islands, a group of lovely
+islets, about 11 miles from Panama, where are the warehouses and wharves
+of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company. Taboga Island, the most important
+of the group, is only one mile and a half long by half a mile broad, but
+with the adjacent islet of Taboquilla, forms a very convenient
+crescent-shaped harbour, which unites to a secure haven a tolerably
+healthy climate, so that during the unhealthy season, when the yellow
+fever sometimes commits fearful ravages in Panama, many of the inhabitants
+resort to this island, which, up to the year 1858, had remained entirely
+free of the scourge.
+
+Late in the evening the English and American papers came on board, from
+which we got the first intelligence of the march of events at the seat of
+war in Italy, as also of another world-wide calamity,--the death of
+Alexander von Humboldt. Even here on the shores of the far Pacific, the
+intelligence of the greatest naturalist of our age having departed from
+among us, made a deep and powerful impression, which not even the tempests
+which impended over the political horizon, and threatened to envelope the
+entire world, could allay. Although the outbreak of hostilities between
+two such powers as France and Austria must inevitably react severely upon
+the condition of the inhabitants of North and South America, yet little
+was discussed respecting events in Italy; while the obituary notice of
+Humboldt was read aloud in the cabin, and many a fellow-traveller
+inscribed on a slip of paper for preservation those beautiful words which
+the noble and venerable old savant is said to have spoken, when on a
+lovely sunny May-day his spirit winged its flight from our planet, whose
+physical constitution his mighty mind had more closely investigated and
+comprehended than any other mortal of our day. "How gloriously those
+sunbeams dart forth; they seem as though inviting the earth to the
+heavens!"
+
+Thus it was forbidden to the members of the Expedition to find the great
+naturalist yet alive on their return to their common native land! How full
+of meaning did those touching words now prove, and how fall of mournful
+memories, with which Humboldt concluded his scientific suggestions to the
+_Novara_ voyagers, when he prayed to Almighty God, "That His Holy Spirit
+would be with this great and splendid undertaking to the honour of the
+common Fatherland!" The _Novara_ staff above all must doubly regret the
+death of the "Nestor of Science." The warm and active interest he took in
+their expedition contributed in no small degree to advance its scientific
+efficiency, and if it be the privilege of the _Novara_ to live in the
+memory of the scientific world, it will, as the Archduke Ferdinand
+Maximilian himself expressed it in a letter to the venerable philosopher,
+"redound in its honour to the latest ages, that it was permitted to
+associate its name with that of Humboldt, who for three generations of men
+has been associated with every triumph that has been achieved in the
+domain of science."
+
+On the 21st, at 7 A.M., we anchored in the roads of Panama. Large ships
+are obliged to lie to from two to three miles off shore, as the beach is
+nothing but "slike," and at ebb-tide presents an immense unsightly
+expanse.
+
+The town of Panama (many fish), built on low green hills amid the most
+magnificent forms of tropical vegetation, presents when viewed from
+seaward a most lovely, enchanting aspect, especially to the traveller
+coming from the sterile sandy shores of the west coast of South America.
+As soon, however, as he sets foot on the shore, and has entered the
+precincts of the city, his first pleasing impressions are rudely
+dispelled. The streets are everywhere narrow and filthy, the houses low
+and poverty-stricken in appearance; even upon their roofs the luxuriance
+of tropical vegetation bursts forth! Moreover the chief square with its
+cathedral leaves an impression of decay. Only a few of the houses situate
+near the beach, the property of strangers, and a few of the hotels, have
+anything of a respectable appearance. The whole population does not exceed
+8000 to 9000 inhabitants, of whom about 500 are whites, the rest being
+negroes and mestizoes. At the time when the railroad was being made across
+the Isthmus, in the construction of which thousands of Irish and Chinese
+fell victims to the climate and the severity of the work, the experiment
+was made of introducing negroes from Jamaica, whose cosmopolitan nature
+asserted itself by their having increased and multiplied even here. At
+present there are upwards of 100,000 negroes on and near the Isthmus.
+
+The expense of living in Panama is no longer so exorbitant as it was ten
+years ago, at the period of the first emigration to the newly-discovered
+gold-fields of California, when there was no railroad, and the journey
+across the Isthmus was made partly on mules, partly in small canoes. For
+from three to four dollars a day, one gets very fair board and lodging at
+the best hotels. The most expensive item is washing, the charge being 2
+dollars (8_s._) a dozen!! In a climate where European cleanliness
+necessitates frequent change of apparel, this item alone amounts to some
+25 dollars to 30 dollars per month for a single person! Accordingly, it is
+found to be more economical to fling away several articles of the toilette
+as soon as they have been soiled, and purchase a fresh supply, rather than
+pay this heavy tax on the purification of the old garments.
+
+The North American Company, which maintains direct communication between
+California and New York, has made such excellent arrangements, that the
+passengers on their arrival in Panama by the train are conveyed in a small
+steamer from the station, which is close to the shore, out to the large
+steamer lying in the roads, which is to convey them to California. The
+entire time occupied in convoying 700 or 800 passengers with their usually
+rather heavy baggage from Colon across the Isthmus, and thence to their
+re-embarkation in the steamer upon the West Coast, does not exceed ten
+hours. The hotel-keepers of Panama, on the other hand, complain sorely of
+this arrangement, for whereas formerly no passenger ever crossed the
+Isthmus without spending one dollar at least, hundreds now pass through
+without ever setting a foot in the city.
+
+When I was in Panama there existed an "Opposition Line" of steamers, a
+genuine American institution, of which we have occasional examples in
+Europe, but which is only to be seen in its fall bloom in the United
+States. Formerly, the fare for a deck-passage from New York to San
+Francisco was 160 dollars (L33 10_s._). The "Opposition Line" lowered the
+fare to 35 dollars, and as out of this sum 25 dollars had to be paid to
+the railway, there remained only 10 dollars (L2 2_s._) for the cost of
+transport and maintenance of passengers on board large handsome steamers
+from New York to San Francisco! For the public at large this was
+undoubtedly a vast benefit, and in consequence of the unexampled lowness
+of fares, an immense number of persons had gone to California during the
+last preceding few months. Whereas formerly only adventurers, speculators,
+or persons of means, could turn their eyes on the land of gold, a poor but
+industrious labouring population now pressed eagerly thither. Of course,
+however, it was too good to last:--no enterprise could continue upon such
+ruinous principles. It was the war of large capital against small;
+whichever could longest stand the incessant drain, remained in possession
+of the field. Occasionally, however, a "compromise" is effected between
+the two parties, but in that case the public is usually the sufferer,
+since in order to make up for past extravagance, the two quondam foes
+combine to keep up exorbitant rates.
+
+The salubrity of Panama, though still unhealthy enough during the wet
+season (May to September), is undoubtedly better than it ever was in
+former years. The doses of quinine pills with which people used to be
+presented in society, very much the same way as a pinch of snuff, have
+become infrequent, neither is it now the custom to drink sherry or brandy
+and water with quinine in it. Indeed, were foreign settlers to abstain
+from the practice of frequent meals, which even in more temperate climes
+cannot be continued in with impunity, the health of the inhabitants would
+benefit greatly. I repeatedly heard it maintained that the use of ice,
+which at present can be got in large quantities and at very low rates upon
+the whole Isthmus, and forms an ingredient of every beverage, and many
+dishes even, has materially improved the hygienic conditions of Panama.
+About 360 tons of ice are imported into Panama annually, or about one ton
+per diem. The whole quantity is supplied from the North American lakes,
+chiefly from Boston, and is sold in gross at 7 dollars 50 cents (about L1
+25_s._) per 100 lbs., the retail price being a trifle over a shilling per
+pound. In order to avoid a glut which might make ice importation
+unremunerative, and endanger the steadiness of the supply, the Government
+has kept in its own hands the monopoly of the ice-trade.
+
+By Dr. Lebreton, a French physician long settled in Panama, who, together
+with an Austrian gentleman, Dr. Kratochwil from Saaz in Bohemia, placed me
+under the deepest obligation for their cordial hospitality, I was
+furnished with a variety of most interesting details of the sanitary
+statistics of the Isthmus, and some curious and valuable particulars
+respecting the poison with which the Indians arm their arrow-tips. In
+Panama is published a most ably-edited daily paper in English, the
+"_Panama Star and Herald_," conducted by two Americans, Messrs. Power and
+Boyd, which so fully and impartially treats of the political, social, and
+commercial condition of the Isthmus and the South American Republics, as
+makes it indispensable for every one to subscribe to it who takes any
+interest in the development of this remarkable country. It is chiefly due
+to these two large-minded, far-seeing gentlemen that we possess a
+statistical detail of the very important commerce of the Isthmus, as well
+as along the west coast of South America. These figures now lie before
+me, and give better than anything else a fair and complete estimate of its
+present activity, which, it may be remarked _en passant_, has owed nothing
+to the natives, but is entirely due to the energy of foreigners.
+
+No fewer than 64 powerful mail steamers, of the united burthen of 96,000
+tons, and representing a money value of at least L4,000,000, ply, part on
+the Atlantic side (Southampton _via_ St. Thomas, and New York to
+Aspinwall), part on the Pacific side to the various harbours on the west
+coast of America, and keep up regular communication between Europe and
+that series of States, consisting of not less than 11,000,000 human
+beings. The value of the products and merchandise annually passing to and
+fro across the Isthmus amounts to about L15,000,000, while the amount of
+precious metals is not very much less.
+
+The pearl-fishery in the Gulf of Panama has of late years notably fallen
+off from its former importance. At present it lags far behind that of the
+Persian Gulf, from which there are annually about L300,000 worth brought
+up, whereas here, notwithstanding the enormous extent of the
+pearl-oyster-banks, the yearly take of pearls does not exceed L24,000.
+Indeed the fishery is carried on less for its costly contents than for the
+sake of the mother-of-pearl itself, of which some 800 or 900 tons are
+shipped annually.
+
+On 23rd June I went by rail from Panama to Aspinwall, on the Atlantic
+side. Except on the days when the steamers on either side bring their
+fortnightly quota of passengers, the traffic of the line is very small.
+When, however, the passenger steamer at either end has disembarked her
+living freight, the Isthmus is all alive, and the coffers of the Company
+are amply replenished. The number of passengers both ways annually has
+been estimated at from 36,000 to 40,000, and the gross receipts of the
+Company at from L200,000 to L300,000.[155]
+
+The fare for the somewhat short distance, 47 miles, is high. There is but
+one class of carriage, and the charge is L5 5_s._, besides 10 cents
+(5_d._) for every pound of baggage above 30 lbs. But it must always be
+borne in mind that enormous difficulties had to be overcome in the
+construction of the line, and that the cost of maintaining the permanent
+way in anything like order is very great, in consequence of the climate
+and the rich tropical vegetation. Whoever has struggled through the almost
+impenetrable forests of the Isthmus, before the rail passed through it,
+and bears in mind the immense physical difficulties of that laborious
+operation, would thankfully pay double the sum now charged for performing
+within a few hours a journey which often occupied a whole week.
+
+The construction of the Panama Railroad was commenced in 1850, the first
+sod being cut on the Atlantic side. On 27th January, 1855, the locomotive
+first performed the journey from ocean to ocean. The cost of construction
+amounted to about L1,100,000.[156] This capital was speedily subscribed by
+the eager speculative Yankees, and, as the result proved, insured from the
+very first to the shareholders a handsome constantly-increasing dividend.
+
+The concession enjoyed by the Company from the Government of New Granada
+only lasts for twenty years, from the day on which the entire line is
+opened; on the expiry of that period the New Granada Government must
+either pay down 5,000,000 dollars (the entire cost of construction), or
+extend the concession for ten years more. At the expiration of this second
+term, the Government may purchase for 4,000,000 dollars, or grant a third
+term of equal length, after which they are to be at liberty to purchase it
+for 2,000,000 dollars.
+
+The traffic managers of the line, Messrs. Lewine and Dorsay, showed me the
+most polite attention. The resident director, Mr. Center, whose office is
+in Aspinwall, and to whom I had letters of introduction, invited me by
+telegraph to make free use of the line, as nothing would give him greater
+pleasure than to become of some service to a scientific traveller. I took
+with me fourteen goodly packages, chiefly collections of natural history.
+Most of these required great care and attention, some on account of their
+fragile texture, others in consequence of being of a perishable nature.
+All these were transported with as much care as though they had been
+charged the very highest rate of freight. The treatment of scientific
+travellers is to some extent a measure of the degree of civilization of a
+people. Hence it is that the North American States and the British
+colonies are the points of the globe where the efforts of scientific
+travellers elicit the heartiest sympathy, where he may count upon the most
+friendly reception, and the most cordial co-operation in carrying out the
+objects he has in view. And speaking now after ten years of the most
+varied experiences of travel, I look back thankfully to the conspicuous
+evidences of good-will which I have universally received from all
+Americans, from the banks of the St. Lawrence to the shores of the Gulf of
+Mexico, and recall with gratitude how every class of the community
+bestirred itself to promote and facilitate the scientific researches of a
+solitary traveller,--how, more particularly, the press, that great power
+of the intellect, lent the utmost assistance of its influential position
+to forward my wishes, and how its columns, thanks to the interest its
+conductors themselves felt, were always open in the most remote districts
+to welcome the stranger. And now, when for a second time I received from
+the sons of that same mighty republic the same cordiality of welcome, I
+recalled with redoubled vivacity the happiness of those long-vanished but
+most pleasant days, as I record this tribute with so much the more
+satisfaction, that I felt it was not the individual but his profession
+that was thus honoured, as is abundantly proved by the experience of many
+another scientific traveller.
+
+The journey across the Isthmus, right through the heart of the primeval
+forest, which was decked out in its gayest attire, is one of the most
+exciting, soul-stirring scenes that the eye of the lover of nature ever
+rested upon. In no part of the world have I seen more luxuriant and
+abundant vegetation than is presented by the forests of Central America,
+and more especially upon the Isthmus. And, as if to heighten still further
+the sense of marvel and enchantment, one traverses this magnificent forest
+landscape behind a locomotive running on its iron track. What a contrast!
+The wild ravel of creepers and the green feathery branches of the palms
+almost penetrate into the waggons, and tell with unmistakeable emphasis
+that the traveller is indeed surrounded by all the beauties of Nature in
+her tropic garb. Trees of the most varied description and of colossal
+dimensions flourish in the foreign garment of a borrowed adornment.
+Between each solitary giant of a forest tree, parasites and _Lianae_ spread
+their delicate green coils, while many a gigantic stem, enveloped in
+thousands of beautiful shoots, or dead trunk choked in the embrace of a
+parasitic creeper, attracts the eye as the train speeds past. So quick and
+so strong is the process of vegetation here, that every section of this
+line has twice in each year to be freed from the encroachments of the
+forest-children; nay, were the line to be left unused but for one
+twelvemonth, it would be difficult to discover any trace of its existence,
+so completely within that time would the whole district become once more a
+wilderness!
+
+The physico-geographical conditions of the Isthmus have only latterly been
+made the subject of profound and exhaustive study by a German naturalist,
+who has published the result of his researches. The justly-dreaded climate
+was the main cause of its having been so long left unexamined. To that
+keen indefatigable _savant_, Dr. Moritz Wagner, my whilom faithful
+travelling companion through Northern and Central America, is due the
+praise of having first accurately and analytically investigated the
+territory of the Isthmus,--that dam which separates two ocean worlds as it
+may be considered from one point of view,--that bridge which unites two
+immense continents as it may be regarded from another,--and who, in so
+doing, has contributed many new and important facts to our previous stock
+of statistics respecting the hypsometrical and geognostic features of the
+Isthmus, as well as to the geographical distribution of the forms of
+organic life which are found there.
+
+In the course of constructing the railroad, the geological profile of the
+country was laid open through a length of 47 miles. This fortunate
+circumstance the German naturalist availed himself of as an excellent
+opportunity for carrying out his design, but his labours were none the
+less beset with difficulties, and only his indomitable perseverance could
+have carried him through the tropical intermittent fevers and mental
+anxiety, which at one time threatened to prostrate his physical strength,
+or even to lay him in his grave. Wagner had been first struck by the very
+remarkable evidence of an entire alteration in the form of the hills
+between Veragua and Obispo. This change in the vertical configuration, the
+decided depression of the Cordilleras, which is most apparent between
+Limon Bay (at the mouth of the Chagres river) and the Gulf of Panama, is
+just as much an important geological fact for physical geography, and for
+solving the important questions of the present and future commerce so
+intimately connected with the artificially cutting through of this neck of
+land, as the change in the horizontal configuration or the sudden
+compression of this part of the world in the north-west of the province of
+Choco, or the rugged steepness that characterizes the range of hills which
+forms the contour of the coast-line. The geological and botanical
+specimens, those most reliable of all data for physical generalization,
+with which Wagner illustrates his interesting exposition of the natural
+character, the prevailing formations, and the most prominent
+representations of the vegetation of the Isthmus, form at present a
+valuable part of the collections of natural history in the Museum of
+Munich.
+
+The journey across is not made at the speed one would expect on a line
+where the locomotive is in charge of a Yankee. It takes four hours to do
+the 47-1/2 English miles. The stations are very numerous, often situate in
+the heart of the forest, where there are only a few labourers' huts.
+Moreover, halts are frequent at spots where there are no passengers
+visible, either to take up or set down. One of the most beautiful of the
+stations is that at the little village of Paraiso, about nine miles
+distant from Panama, which lies in a kettle-shaped glade. At this point
+large clearings have been made, and the eye ranges over a rather more
+extended landscape, only bounded in fact by the contour of the
+neighbouring hills. The only inhabitants are negroes, mulattoes, and
+mestizoes, who for the most part are employed as labourers on the line. A
+few miles after leaving Paraiso, the train reaches the station of Culebra,
+or, as it is more generally called by the inhabitants, "the Summit," the
+narrow steep rise of which marks the water-shed between the Rio Grande,
+falling into the Pacific, and the Rio Chagres, which debouches into the
+Caribbean Sea. This is the highest point of the line. The actual height of
+the pass is 287 English feet, but it has been lowered by about 25 feet, so
+that Summit station is only 262 feet above the mean level of the ocean.
+
+The most important village along the line is Matachin, a large straggling
+village, which, however, seems to be inhabited exclusively by negroes,
+mulattoes, and Zamboes. As I have previously remarked, the majority of the
+labourers on the line emigrated hither from the West Indies, especially
+Jamaica, attracted by the high wages of labour, and after it was
+completed, settled along its course in neat, clean, but small cottages.
+And whereas the baleful tropical climate decimated every other class of
+labourer employed during the construction of the lines, these latter have
+flourished here better than any other description of settler. They seem to
+be universally healthy and well fed, and their oceans of children, who
+impart life to the landscape, attest that the women have not lost their
+fertility. They all seemed to be well and were neatly clothed. However,
+when I crossed, it happened to be a holiday, and consequently every one
+wore his Sunday dress, clean white trowsers, white shirt, and a
+narrow-brimmed hat of fine straw.
+
+Near Barbacoa station the eye of the traveller, that has hitherto revelled
+in the voluptuous beauties of nature, rests with pleasure on a splendid
+trophy of human industry, an iron bridge, 600 feet long, which spans the
+River Chagres at this point. It was on one of the Cerros, a little west of
+Barbacoa, that Vasco Nunez de Balboa first beheld both the Atlantic and
+the Pacific oceans at once, and, regarding his stand-point in the Isthmus
+as a mere handful of earth, may have imagined himself a conqueror, whose
+glance comprehended both worlds.
+
+The last portion of the line, as we near the Atlantic side, passes over
+vast swamps, which rendered the construction of this portion of the road
+exceedingly difficult and very expensive. Aspinwall itself moreover, the
+terminus of the Inter-oceanic Railway, lies on a small island, two-thirds
+of the surface of which is morass, and covered with tropical marsh
+vegetation. This station was selected, notwithstanding its very
+unwholesome climate, chiefly because the roadstead of Limon Bay furnishes
+a safe anchorage in all weathers for vessels of even the largest size.
+
+This small island, only 7000 feet long by 5800 wide, which was first named
+from the immense quantity of _Hippomane mancinella_, a tree with a very
+powerful poison, that is found on it, and is now called "Isla de
+Manzanilla," was formally made over by the New Granada Government to the
+American Company at the beginning of the works in the year 1852, and was
+used by it for the new city, as also for the erection of warehouses, &c.
+
+Aspinwall, or Colon, as it is sometimes called, numbers at present some
+1500 inhabitants, of whom 150 are North Americans and English, the rest
+negroes and mulattoes. The little town, with its neat frame-houses and
+clean cottages, involuntarily reminds one of the new settlements in the
+North American States. Here, besides the residences of the officials, are
+the warehouses and workshops of the Company. In the latter about 700
+workmen are employed, while four schooners maintain uninterrupted
+communication between Aspinwall and New York, for the purpose of providing
+for the various wants of the crowded establishment. Even the very
+provisions are imported from North America. The resident director, Mr. A.
+J. Center, received me with the most hearty welcome, and during my entire
+stay continued to display the same kindness and interest, which he
+manifested from the moment he received my letter of introduction.
+
+In Aspinwall the climate has within the last few years become more
+salubrious than at the period of the first colonization, when "Chagres
+fever" acquired a gruesome reputation, and no resident who stayed above
+two months in the place escaped the attack of the fever. Even mules and
+dogs could not escape the universal malaria. However, to this day a
+lengthened residence on this marshy soil is not unattended with danger,
+although the miasmatic poison has undoubtedly lost much of its virulence.
+The negroes longest resist its dangerous effect, after whom come the
+coolies, then the Europeans, while the Chinese are invariably the earliest
+attacked.[157]
+
+On 23rd June, about midnight, I left Limon Bay in the steamer _Medway_.
+Having been committed to the charge of her captain by the kind attention
+of Mr. B. Cowan, the English Consul in Aspinwall, I found myself more
+comfortable and better attended to on board this small filthy old tub than
+I could possibly have expected. The Company avowedly employ in the
+Intercolonial lines the worst and most uncomfortable of their vessels, and
+the traveller who has to make any short passage, for instance, among the
+West India islands, is exposed to the doubly disagreeable feeling of
+paying a very much higher rate of fare, for very inferior accommodation.
+The _Medway_ was an old acquaintance of mine in my previous West Indian
+rambles, as in former years she performed the mail service between Belize,
+Jamaica, Hayti, Porto Rico, St. Thomas, and Havanna, and this opportunity
+of renewing my acquaintance with her I hailed with anything but a
+sentiment of satisfaction.
+
+Early on the 25th June we ran into the extensive and beautiful bay of
+Carthagena, which now-a-days is only accessible on one side, the second
+entrance having been destroyed by the Spaniards during their supremacy,
+and never reopened. This seaport contains about 11,000 inhabitants, many
+churches and monasteries, as also large fortifications, but of trade and
+commerce there is next to nothing. In the roads there lay but three small
+coasting crafts. For the naturalist, and especially for the zoologist,
+Carthagena is on the other hand classic soil.
+
+Our steamer was fairly beleaguered by shoals of small canoes with natives
+on board, who offered for sale any quantity of the most various and
+beautiful little denizens of the surrounding country. Any naturalist who
+should spend a short time here, might, with the assistance of the Indians,
+who seem to be both zealous and apt collectors, get together an extensive
+and most valuable zoological and botanical collection. Carthagena indeed
+presents in particular great advantages for the shipment to Europe alive
+of the more interesting animals. These steamers do not take much above a
+fortnight hence to England, and if dispatched about May or June, the
+animals would sustain but little detriment from the change to a European
+climate at that season. Thus on the present voyage of the _Medway_ there
+were numbers of animals and chests of plants in full bloom, consigned to
+various museums and private collections in England.
+
+On 30th June we anchored in the small but delightful harbour of St.
+Thomas, with bright green hills forming a picturesque back-ground,
+relieved by the white houses of the inhabitants picturesquely grouped
+along their slopes.
+
+St. Thomas had changed little from what I remembered it at my previous
+visit in 1855. At the last census it had 15,000 inhabitants, and its trade
+is visibly increasing. It is, however, extremely difficult to get at the
+statistics of the annual amount of shipping here, as there is no
+toll-house, and the Danish Government publishes no official information as
+to the general trade. According to a German merchant long resident here,
+the number of foreign ships of all nations entering and leaving the port
+amounts to 860 annually, of coasters about 3500, while the annual value of
+merchandise so transshipped is about 6,000,000 dollars. One very
+remarkable trade is that in ice, which reaches the enormous amount of 1000
+tons annually, chiefly for distribution among the adjoining islands, by
+far the largest proportion of which comes from Boston, where it is worth
+20 dollars per ton, and at St. Thomas 80 dollars per ton, or 3-1/2 cents
+per lb. One may conceive that the entire ice-trade to the West Indies,
+South America, China, the Malay Archipelago, and the East Indies is in the
+hands of the keen North Americans, who evince a capacity for making a
+genial use of a natural phenomenon, which a less speculative race of men
+associate with the idea of cold, discomfort, and stagnation of
+intercourse.
+
+M. A. Ruese, a wealthy chemist and zealous naturalist, by whom as by other
+German residents I was most kindly received, has acquired much distinction
+from his profound acquaintance with the lower animals of the West Indies,
+of which he possesses a small but valuable collection, chiefly of the
+Fauna of the islands of St. Thomas, Ste. Croix and Trinidad, and was so
+exceedingly courteous as to present me with duplicates of several of the
+most interesting. M. Krebs, merchant, and M. Kjaer harbour-master, also in
+their hours of relaxation gave me much valuable information on kindred
+topics, the latter gentleman farther presenting me with specimens from an
+excellent collection he had formed of petrifactions.
+
+What, however, afforded me the sincerest satisfaction on the occasion of
+my present visit to St. Thomas, was the striking examples of industry,
+intelligence, and social comfort of the negro population. Of all nations
+among whom this curse of slavery has been implanted, the Danes have best
+comprehended how practically to solve the difficult problem of
+emancipation. The number of slaves in Danish colonies was at all times
+very small, and their manumission consequently more easy. Nevertheless
+the mode adopted in getting rid of the evil is deserving of attention and
+imitation. The duty of labouring does not cease with the means of
+compelling it. Slaves emancipated by the Danish Government may spend the
+wages they receive for their labour at their own discretion, and are
+permitted to change masters at pleasure, but they cannot quit their former
+employer till they have found a fresh one. The rate of wages at St. Thomas
+is pretty high, and the black population, who form the largest contingent
+of the labouring population, not only finds constant occupation, but is
+remarkably well paid besides. The negroes on this island are, however,
+very handy and quick, thanks to the constant intercourse with foreign
+nations. Many of them speak several languages fluently, and a German
+traveller who visits the island for the first time is apt to be not a
+little surprised at finding himself addressed in his mother-tongue by a
+swarthy son of Africa.
+
+Our departure was fixed for 1st July. The various mail steamers which had
+been expected from the different ports of the West Indies and the eastern
+coast of Central America, had all arrived. The fine and comfortable but
+old and slow steamer _Magdalena_ was to leave for Europe at noon. Suddenly
+a sailing vessel came in like a Job's comforter, with the intelligence
+that the splendid new steamer _Paramatta_, which was about due with the
+mails from England, had on her first voyage gone ashore on the Anegada
+shoal near the island of Virgin Gorda, 60 nautical miles from St. Thomas,
+and with her 40 passengers, and a valuable cargo, was in need of instant
+relief. This intelligence again delayed our departure. It was at first
+determined to send off every disposable steamer to the scene of the
+disaster, and to detain the _Magdalena_, till full particulars of the
+mischance had been obtained, for transmission to the directors in London.
+Afterwards it was arranged that the _Magdalena_ should proceed to the spot
+where the _Paramatta_ was lying nearly high and dry, to assist if possible
+in floating the ship off the reef.
+
+At 6 P.M. accordingly we steamed out of the Bay of St. Thomas. On the
+present occasion the _Magdalena_ had 163 passengers on board, the majority
+of whom were planters from the various West India islands, bound on a
+pleasure trip during the hot season. Not merely the black servants, but
+even their white and chocolate-coloured masters, broke out into the most
+marvellous English or French jargon, according as they came from Jamaica
+and Demerara, from Martinique, Guadaloupe, or Hayti. The presence of a
+great number of children, who, so long as they kept free of sea-sickness,
+evidently considered the whole of the quarter-deck as especially designed
+for them to play on, in which notion they were zealously upheld by their
+mothers and their nurses, made the passage anything but agreeable.
+Moreover, the impression made by the grown-up passengers was such as to
+heighten one's aspirations for a speedy voyage. The intelligence which had
+been received from the seat of war in Italy gave rise to much excitement,
+and within the first twelve hours had made it apparent that it was vain
+to hope for a pleasant voyage. Nothing was heard on every side but
+politics, and it may be left to the reader to guess in what tone they
+would be discussed, when Frenchmen, heated with visions of _la gloire
+militaire_, were the principal spokesmen.
+
+Early the next morning we were near the reef, which had disabled the
+largest and finest of the Company's ships, that had just cost L140,000.
+The unfortunate ship had struck the reef when running 11 knots an hour,
+and now lay on her starboard side on the reef, having careened so far over
+that her port paddle-wheel was quite clear of the water. A committee on
+the spot having decided that she must be entirely dismantled before even
+her bare hull could be got off the reef, it was resolved not to detain the
+_Magdalena_, it being thought desirable that she should as speedily as
+possible make her way to Southampton, so as to enable the directors at
+once to determine what course to adopt, before the sailing of the next
+steamer. Our captain was furnished with a general account of the accident,
+together with a sketch by the head engineer of the position of the
+_Paramatta_, and with these the _Magdalena_ was permitted to take her
+departure.
+
+The voyage threatened to be long and tedious, though attempts were made to
+enliven the mornings and evenings by music, and an occasional dance on
+deck. The former might have been made very agreeable, had not the _chef
+d'orchestre_, who was second steward, ventured on playing his own
+compositions as often as possible. To please the susceptibilities of the
+two nationalities, _God save the Queen_ and _Partant pour la Syrie_ were
+regularly called for each night. A more serious cause of alarm was the
+fear lest we should have to put into some intermediate port to coal. When
+she left St. Thomas the _Magdalena_ had 1200 tons on board, but as,
+notwithstanding constant calms and a sea like a mill-pond, she never made
+above 190 to 220 miles in the early part of the voyage, at a consumption
+of 70 tons per day, there seemed every prospect of our exhausting our
+supply. As she consumed her stock, however, she lightened perceptibly,
+till she even got up to the for her unusual speed of 280 miles a day. How
+different from the same Company's ships _Atrato_ and _La Plata_, which
+frequently make 340 miles a day, and in fact average only 13 days on the
+passage home, while the average of the _Magdalena_ and her consorts is 18
+days!
+
+At last, on 18th July, we sighted the Lizard's. Although barely 200 miles
+from our destination, the captain thought it best to put into the nearest
+port for a supply of coal, and shortly after noon we anchored in Falmouth
+Harbour, where the first intelligence we got was that peace had been
+concluded. Singular to say, even this intelligence produced no accession
+of harmony between the two great political parties on board. As for
+myself, I had kept as much as possible by myself; and now stepping ashore,
+I wandered through the narrow dirty streets of Falmouth, which presents
+the accurate type of the old-fashioned English provincial town. The
+meadows and sloping hills around shone forth in all the fresh verdure of
+spring. Even the traveller fresh from the voluptuous loveliness of the
+tropics, finds ever new beauties in the manifold variety of nature. The
+more the student of Nature walks with her and finds in her his chief
+pleasures, the more receptive does his soul become for all that is
+marvellous and beautiful, as from day to day they present themselves in
+new and unexpected phases.
+
+The same evening the _Magdalena_ resumed her voyage, and about noon on the
+19th we passed the renowned "Needles," and in two hours afterwards reached
+Southampton. Dire was the confusion on board, each person wishing to have
+his own trunk conveyed on shore the first. I found with my voluminous
+boxes the most courteous consideration. It sufficed to explain the object
+of my travels to have all my luggage passed without examination. For down
+to the English Custom House officials, who are not, it must be confessed,
+prone to show much tenderness to travellers' baggage, extends that
+honourable feeling of respect for science which Englishmen of all grades
+seem to entertain. The same evening I reached London.
+
+As the next steamer for Gibraltar was not to leave for eight days, I
+immediately started to London, and availed myself of this opportunity to
+renew old acquaintance, and make up my leeway as regarded the important
+strides and valuable discoveries made in the fields of science during my
+long absence from Europe. The warm interest and cordial reception I met
+with from such gentlemen as Sir Roderick Murchison, General Sabine, Sir
+Charles Lyell, Professor Owen, Dr. Gray, Mr. Henry Reeve, Mr. Crawford,
+Mr. John Murray, Mr. Ellis, and many others, was the most gratifying and
+conclusive evidence of the interest and high expectations which the
+_Novara_ Expedition had excited among scientific circles in England.
+
+On 27th July I embarked on board the P. and O. Company's steamer _Behar_,
+Captain Black, _en route_ to Gibraltar, which I reached after a passage of
+4-1/2 days, and, what is still more curious, by a singular coincidence, at
+the very same moment when the _Novara_, with every stitch of canvas set,
+was proudly careering through the famous Straits!! As the noble frigate
+shot past our steamer, Captain Black saluted, and was so thoughtfully kind
+as to signal the _Novara_ that I was among his passengers. Very soon
+after, both ships anchored in the roads of Gibraltar. In the course of my
+overland journey from Valparaiso to Gibraltar, I had travelled 8832
+nautical miles, and had been but 29 days actually travelling.
+
+I now felt pervaded by a sentiment of profoundest gratitude to a
+benevolent fate, which had led me safely and pleasantly through so many
+dangers till I rejoined that Expedition with which not alone the best and
+happiest remembrances of my life are henceforth associated, but which
+opened to me the unspeakably gratifying prospect of being better able to
+contribute, by extended knowledge and experience, to the advancement of
+science in my native land!
+
+
+                              FOOTNOTES:
+
+[120] The fares, first class (including provisions and bedding, but
+without wine), are as follows:
+
+                                         Miles    Dols.     L  s. d.
+  Valparaiso to Callao de Lima           1467       95  or  19 19  0
+
+  Callao to Panama                       1594      110  "   23  2  0
+
+  Aspinwall (E. coast of Isthmus  }
+    of Panama) to St. Thomas, and }      4572      360  "   75 12  0
+    thence to Southampton         }
+
+  Total, exclusive of 49 miles of }
+    rail from Colon to Panama     }      7633      565  "  118 13  0
+
+[121] Hitherto, the coal procured at Lota in the south of Chile has been
+neglected, in consequence of the freight being so heavy that it is cheaper
+to import coals from England and North America.
+
+[122] See "On the Source and Supply of Cubic Saltpetre, or Nitrate of
+Soda, and its use in small quantities as a Restorative to Corn-crops, by
+Philip Pusey." London, W. Clowes and Sons, 1853.
+
+[123] The proportion as found along the coast is 93 to 95 per cent. of
+saltpetre, to 7 to 5 per cent. of earth.
+
+[124] The export, however, is constantly increasing. In 1858 it amounted
+to 61,000 tons, in 1859 to 78,000, of which 22,500 tons went to England,
+15,200 to France, and the remainder to Germany.
+
+[125] From Arica there are bridle-paths to Potosi, Oruru, Cochabamba, La
+Paz, Chuquisaca, and Calamaca, probably the highest inhabited point of the
+earth's surface, where a population of 800 souls live at an elevation of
+13,800 feet above the level of the sea.
+
+[126] The volcano of Arequipa is 10,500 feet above its base, but 18,000
+above sea-level.
+
+[127] "Peru; Sketches of Travel, 1839-42, by J. J. v. Tschudi." St. Gall,
+1846: Vol. i. p. 335. Also, "Investigations on the Fauna of Peru." St.
+Gall, 1844-46. The author from personal observation speaks as follows of
+these singular sand-columns, whirling along before the wind. "Driving
+before a strong wind, the _medanos_ speedily overleap all barriers, the
+lighter and more easily-propelled preceding the heavier like an advanced
+guard. Sometimes they are hurled against each other, when, so soon as they
+meet, they are dashed violently together, and break up simultaneously.
+Frequently a flat _stretch_ of ground is covered within a few hours by a
+row of sand-hills, which within a day or two more resume their level
+monotonous appearance. The most experienced guides consequently become
+confused as to the way, and it is they who the soonest give way to despair
+as they wander blindly about among the sand-hills. The small
+mountain-spurs, by which the country is traversed from W. to E., afford
+some sort of clue, but these oases are few and far between in the sterile
+wilderness around."
+
+[128] The ordinary mode of writing the word "Guano" is erroneous, as
+already remarked by Tschudi, as the Quichua language, to which the word
+belongs, is deficient in the consonant G, among others. The Spaniards
+first converted into a G the strongly aspirated H of the original, while
+the last syllable "nu," which so frequently terminates the words adopted
+from the Quichua, was changed by them into "no."
+
+[129] Only the immense numbers of sea-fowl, their extraordinary voracity,
+and the bounteous provision for supplying them with food, can furnish any
+possible explanation of the enormous mass accumulated here, even allowing
+for such a lapse of time. Mr. Tschudi, in the course of his travels in
+Peru, once kept for several days a live _Sula variegata_, which he was
+continually feeding with fish. He carefully collected the excrement, when,
+notwithstanding these birds eat much less in captivity than in a state of
+nature, it voided in a day from 3 1/2 to 5 oz.! According to other
+investigations in natural history, it seems that the pelican eats 20 lbs.
+a day of fish.
+
+[130] Beds of guano have also been discovered lately by Captain Ord at the
+Kooria-Mooria Islands, on the south coast of Arabia, in 18 deg. N. 56 deg. E., 850
+miles E.N.E. of Aden. Here any ship can load this valuable cargo on paying
+a duty of L2 per ton to the English Government, which has recently
+established a colony at the bay and islands of that name, and has made it
+a coaling station. But the African guano is by no means so strong or so
+pungent a manure as that found on the rainless coasts of Peru, where
+certain peculiarities of climate combine to make it less liable to
+diminution of its saline virtues by dissolution or liquefaction.
+
+[131] The day on which Lima was founded by Pizarro was the 6th January,
+1534, which according to the Catholic calendar is that dedicated to the
+Three Kings of Cologne, whence, in conformity with the religious customs
+of the period, the city was named "Ciudad de los Reyes" (City of the
+Kings).
+
+[132] I feel it a pleasant duty to express here publicly how much I am
+indebted to the representatives of this celebrated firm in the different
+ports of South America, and to the head of the house in London, for the
+kind and generous manner in which this gentleman endeavoured to facilitate
+and advance the objects I had in view.
+
+[133] One of the most distinguished physicians of the capital, Dr.
+Archibald Smith, has collected some interesting particulars, with the
+dates, respecting the outbreak of these fearful maladies, which we intend
+to publish elsewhere.
+
+[134] This institution is also in charge of the Sisters of Charity. There
+were only some ten or twelve children in course of education, who,
+however, seemed to be in excellent health and well fed. When I expressed
+to the lady superintendent my astonishment that the establishment was not
+more extensively patronized, she replied, "_Los ninos se crian en la
+Calle!_" (The children are here brought up in the streets.)
+
+[135] There are in Lima 46 private lying-in establishments. The mothers
+are extremely loth to separate from their children, and if great
+difficulty be experienced in getting wet-nurses, this is to be attributed
+far more to the love of the mothers for their children than to strict
+morality among the mass of the population.
+
+[136] A Peruvian author, Don J. A. Delavalle, gives in one of his works
+the following severe, yet faithful, portraiture of the state of letters in
+his native country:--"En un pais en el que el cultivo de las letras ni
+constituye una profesion, ni crea una posicion social, ni procura lo
+necesario--no decimos para lucrar con ella--para conseguir el sustento
+para la vida, nos admiraremos de que haya quien escriba en Lima, y
+reputaremos como extraordinario el numero de obras que han salido de sus
+prensas en 1860, por muy pequeno que este haya sido. Sin proteccion, pues,
+y sin estimulo, ni oficial, ni social, ? que se podra esperar de las
+letras Peruanas?" (_Translation of the foregoing._) "In a country where
+the cultivation of letters is not a profession by itself, where literature
+confers no social position, and barely procures the necessaries of
+life,--we do not speak of realizing competence and independence,--we
+marvel there should be any one in Lima who writes at all, and we consider
+little less than extraordinary the number of books which have issued from
+its press in 1860, insignificant as the sum total may be. Without
+protection, without influence, and without stimulus, official or social,
+who can suffer himself to hope for a better future for Peruvian
+literature?" (Compare Peru in 1860, in the National Annual Register, by
+Alfredo G. Leubel, Lima, 1861.)
+
+[137] Pachacamac, the invisible God, i. e. "he who created the earth out
+of nothing."
+
+[138] In Canete, an Indian village of 9000 inhabitants, 60 English miles
+from Lurin, there are also numerous Peruvian architectural memorials, as
+also an antique temple of idols, which have never been carefully examined.
+On my return to Lima, I was shown the mummy of a very young child, which
+Don Juan Quiros, deputy from the province of Canete, had brought to the
+capital with him from his own home. The little corpse, quite mummified,
+lay in a beautiful, neatly-plaited little basket, and was swathed in
+layers of fine variegated cloth. On both sides lay toys of various kinds,
+attesting not alone the tenderness of the mother for her dead offspring,
+but also that a high degree of artistic taste and finish had been
+attained.
+
+[139] According to the "Estadistica general de Lima" (1858) of M. Fuentes,
+Lima has a population of 94,195, all told; according to the "Anuario
+Nacional" of A. Leubel for 1861, only 85,116 souls, who inhabit a surface
+of 6523.597 square Varas (Spanish). The entire population of Peru can
+hardly exceed 1,900,000, but a reliable census has never yet been made.
+
+[140] Once during my stay in Lima I had an opportunity of conversing with
+Don Ramon. He had come up from his country-seat, or rather from the
+roulette-table of Chorillos, to the capital, and was courteous enough to
+accord me a reception at his house. After passing a couple of sentinels, I
+was ushered through a large bare room into a small ill-lighted apartment
+on the ground-floor, when I found myself suddenly face to face with the
+President of the Peruvian Republic. I was presented by a friend settled in
+Lima. The General is a mestizo with a strongly-marked brown Indian visage,
+projecting cheek-bones, and an arched nose, wiry grey hair kept close
+cropped, and energetic, but withal coarse features. He is so far entitled
+to gratitude, that during the few years he has swayed the destinies of the
+Republic, he has maintained internal tranquillity. But there still remains
+the saddening feeling, borne out by the actual state of matters, that a
+territory over which Spanish grandees and viceroys once held sway, is at
+present ruled by an Indian half-breed, who can scarcely read and write. In
+manners and general appearance, Don Ramon Castilla strongly reminded me of
+his dusky confrere, General Rafael Carrera, President of Guatemala, with
+whose despotic tendencies he may be said fully to sympathize.
+
+[141] Thus too it is the predominance of the pure Spanish type and the
+extent of foreign immigration, which render the future of Chile so
+hopeful.
+
+[142] Vide E. Poeppig, Travels in Chile, Peru, and down the Amazon, vol.
+ii. p. 248.--Von Tschudi, Sketches of Peruvian Travel, vol. ii. p.
+290.--Weddell, Travels in Northern Bolivia in 1853, p. 514.--Von Bibra,
+Narcotics and their Influence on Man.--History of the Expedition of M.
+Castelnau in the Central Territories of South America. Paris, 1850, vol.
+iii. p. 349.--Dr. Paul Montegazza, "Researches into the Hygienic and
+Medicinal Properties of Coca. Annali de Medicina, March, 1859."
+
+[143] This custom of the Aymara Indians, not less universal than
+extraordinary, of standing on their heads after long and fatiguing
+marches, seems to be the result of an instinct which teaches them how best
+to mitigate the severe pressure of the blood.
+
+[144] The mail goes four times a month from La Paz to Tacna, and usually
+weighs 25 lbs., which the courier carries on his back and delivers within
+some five or six days, without other nourishment than that already
+specified!
+
+[145] The Aymara Indian rarely uses animal food, as to do so he would
+require to kill one of his beloved Llamas. His chief food consists of
+roasted _Chuno_, a small bitter species of potato, which flourishes only
+on the barren, rugged plateau of the Andes inhabited by the Aymara, where
+neither the common potato nor the maize continue to grow; even barley,
+which the Spaniards introduced, ceases to thrive. Their only other food is
+a species of moss, which grows in the swamps, and is called by the natives
+"_Lanta_." Under such alimentary conditions, it is readily intelligible
+why the Aymara have a predilection for coca balls (_acullica_), which (as
+sailors and others do with us, with tobacco) they keep continually rolling
+about in their mouths, and which, as soon as the whole of the juice has
+been sucked out, is thrown away and replaced by a fresh "quid." The juice
+of the green leaves diluted with oceans of saliva is usually swallowed. An
+Indian chews on the average an ounce to an ounce and a half per diem, but
+on feast-days double that quantity.
+
+[146] Cocain is precipitated in colourless inodorous prismatic crystals.
+It is with difficulty soluble in water, but melts readily in alcohol, and
+with still more facility in ether. When dissolved in alcohol, the solution
+becomes a strong alkaline reagent, and has a peculiar slightly bitter
+taste. When brought in contact with the nerves of the tongue, it possesses
+the singular property of deadening sensation after a few seconds have
+elapsed, in the part to which it has been applied, which for a time
+becomes almost void of feeling. It fuses at a temperature of 208 deg.4 Fahr.,
+and in cooling resumes its former prismatic crystalline form. When heated
+beyond this temperature, it changes to a reddish hue, and volatilizes with
+a strong ammoniacal odour. Only a small portion seems to get liberated by
+the destructive process. When heated on a platinum disc, it burns away
+with a bright flame, leaving no residuum. Cocain completely neutralizes
+acids, although most of the resulting salts seem to crystallize with
+difficulty, and to remain for a considerable time in an amorphous state.
+The resultant chloride seemed the most readily formed as well as
+delicately shaped of the crystals. Cocain exposed in chlorine is followed
+by such a development of heat that the former is fused. (Compare "Cocain,
+an Organic Base in the Coca," letter of Professor F. Woehler to W.
+Haidinger, acting Fellow of the Imperial Academy of Sciences, presented at
+the meeting of the Class of Mathematics and Physical Science, 8th March,
+1860. See also "On a New Organic Base in the Coca-leaves," Inaugural
+dissertation on attaining the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at Goettingen,
+by Albert Niemann of Goslar. Printed at the Goettingen Press, 1860.)
+
+[147] According to Woehler, this fluid substance admits of being distilled
+even along with water; its odour strongly recalls Trimethylamin; it is a
+strong alkaline reagent, but is not bitter to the taste, and forms a white
+cloud when acids are poured upon it. Its chloride crystallizes readily,
+but is very volatile. With chloride of platina it forms a flocculent
+uncrystallized precipitate, which decomposes on the liquid being heated.
+With chloride of quicksilver, it assumes a dim milky appearance, which is
+caused by the formation of a substance resembling drops of oil. Hygrin is
+not poisonous; a few drops given to a rabbit were followed by no
+perceptible symptoms.
+
+[148] As, judging by the experiments hitherto made, cocain seems to
+consist of two atoms in juxta-position, there is reason to conjecture that
+it is destined to be the source of a large number of products of
+transformation. It is highly probable, as Woehler has remarked, that cocain
+may yet be _artificially_ made by a mixture of hygrin with Benzoic acid,
+or rather with one of the substances forming part of the Benzoyle group.
+
+[149] See Von Tschudi _ut supra_, vol. ii. 309.
+
+[150] I append here the most important points on which information is
+sought respecting the climatic and other conditions of the various
+Cinchona species as cultivated in South America, concerning which Dr.
+Junghuhn needed more correct information, and can but express the hope,
+that, should curiosity or destiny lead the steps of any one of my more
+earnest readers to Peru, he may succeed by his own observation in solving
+these questions, my inability to aid more effectively in which has been to
+me a source of deep mortification. The learned naturalist of Java
+furnished me with the following particulars:--
+
+"What it behoves us especially to ascertain, respecting which Hasskarl has
+observed nothing, and Weddell furnishes no accurate information, is
+comprised in the following questions:
+
+1. What are the highest and lowest limits of the _Cinchona Calisaya_, or
+at all events, what is the altitude of the region in which it most
+abounds?
+
+2. What is the unvarying warmth of the soil, as observed at a depth of 5
+feet below the surface?
+
+3. On what soil does it grow most abundantly and luxuriantly? Does it
+affect rich black mould, in moist forcing soils, or rather dry, stony,
+barren soils? Does it grow on steep acclivities, or does it seem to prefer
+gentle slopes or level ground? Can specimens of the soil be procured? What
+is the description of the rock formation, trachytic, granitic, or gneiss,
+or are slate or sandstone the characteristic formations?
+
+4. What are the general meteorological conditions, and what is the annual
+amount of rain-fall? For how many and during what months does it rain, and
+during what period of the day are the showers heaviest? Does it rain for
+months at a time, and for how many, and during what months? Or does it not
+rain at all, in which case is its place supplied by regular afternoon
+storms? How many days of rain are there in the rainy season of that
+particular region of the tropical zone? Are the nights and forenoons, as
+in Java, usually clear until noon? Is it known whether observations have
+ever been made by the Spanish Creoles as to the amount and duration of the
+rain-fall? A correct knowledge of the amount of moisture and rain-fall of
+the Calisaya district is of special importance to all engaged in the
+cultivation of that plant. Further, frequent observations must be made
+with the psychrometer in the morning before sunrise, between nine and ten
+o'clock, at the hour of maximum of temperature, and in the evening, in the
+forest and in the open ground, that these may afterwards be compared with
+mine in Java.
+
+5. Does the Calisaya prefer the deepest shadows of the forest, does it
+grow there quite apart from other trees, or is it more frequently found in
+the open spaces where it is warmed by the sun's rays, such places being
+usually rather clear of trees? Does it grow solitary, or is it found in
+groups or clusters, and are its special peculiarities in this respect
+observable in every forest? Is it observed to be more numerous towards the
+edge of the forest, and does it evince a tendency to extend thence over
+the grass, the drift, the plateaux, &c., and what alterations do these
+make in its habits?
+
+6. Information is wanted as to the month in which the Calisaya blossoms,
+and that in which the fruit ripens, as also what length of time usually
+elapses between the first appearance of the buds and the shedding of the
+_corolla_, and from the shedding of the _corolla_ to the bursting, i. e.
+the complete maturity of the capsules. It would seem that in Java it takes
+a much longer time, as also that it blossoms at an entirely different
+season from that in which it blossoms in its native regions.
+
+7. Much anxiety is felt as to whether it is possible to ascertain with
+accuracy how many years old, as also what are the usual height and the
+diameter (at the base of the trunk) of a Calisaya tree, when it first
+begins to blossom, and whether these first blossoms are developed into
+ripe fruit, with seeds capable of fertilization.
+
+8. How high, how thick, and how old are--
+
+_a._ The youngest and smallest, and
+
+_b._ The largest and oldest,
+
+Calisaya trees, which are now felled for their bark in South America? What
+description of bark is the most prized, that from the young and slender,
+or that from the larger and older trees? Also whether the bark of a very
+young tree, e. g. four years old, contain thus early the active principle,
+genuine?
+
+9. As, judging by appearances, it has been rightly assumed that the bark
+of any given description of Cinchona is found to be more abundantly
+provided with alkaloid, especially quinine, the greater the elevation
+above the sea, and becomes impoverished in these respects in proportion as
+a lower level and a warmer climate are reached, it is desirable that
+special observations should be made for the elucidation of these
+particulars.
+
+10. It is desirable information should be got from the China bark
+collectors (Cascarilleros) of Peru, as to the natural foes of the Cinchona
+plant, especially C. Calisaya, and it appears likewise important to
+ascertain whether the Calisaya is there also liable to be injured and
+bored into by mites and other noxious insects.
+
+11. It is highly desirable that all the above recommended observations
+made respecting Cinchona Calisaya, may also be applied to _all other_
+species of Cinchona that may occur in South America, of which those
+ranking next in interest and importance to us in Java, and which have been
+planted here, are C. _Condaminea, var. lucumaefolia_, _laurifolia_,
+_lanceolata_, as also C. _cordifolia_, C. _ovata_, and _var.
+erythroderma_.
+
+12. Is the pure red China bark actually obtained from the C. _ovata, var.
+erythroderma_ of Weddell, as would appear from an article by Howard in
+"the Pharmaceutical Journal for October, 1856?" The leaves of that variety
+have the most resemblance to those of the three young trees brought over,
+which we now possess in Java, and which I have spoken of as _Cinchona
+cordifolia_.
+
+13. The experiments in acclimatization of the above-named species in Java,
+especially in Western Java, which, it must be admitted, has a very much
+more moist, rainy climate than Peru, and still more so than Southern
+Bolivia, where the Calisaya chiefly grows, have already undergone several
+phases, and it has successfully struggled with numerous obstacles, some
+natural, others the result of failures of the earliest cultivators. The
+species named C. _Condaminea, var. lucumaefolia_, has shown itself more
+susceptible of being acclimatized than the C. _Calisaya_, and at present
+(May, 1858) promises to produce from 50,000 to 70,000 ripe fruit, within a
+few weeks, all fit for reproduction. Apparently the climate and other
+physical conditions of the locality in Java, where the cultivation has
+been carried on, have corresponded with those natural conditions which
+enable this plant to grow so abundantly in its native soil of Peru."
+
+[151] The name dates from the time when what is now Bolivia (in the forest
+of which the China tree chiefly grows) formed an integral portion of Peru,
+and was in fact called Upper Peru, whereas from that which is now called
+Peru, hardly any bark is exported, while that found in New Granada and
+Ecuador, whence it is exported to Spain under the name of Pitaya, is a
+species of very inferior quality for medicinal purposes.
+
+[152] The name, Countess' powder, which was given to the drug owing to its
+use by a certain Countess Chinchon (wife of a Peruvian viceroy), was
+afterwards altered to Cardinal's or Jesuit's powder, in consequence of the
+Procurator-general of the order of Jesus, Cardinal de Lugo, having, during
+his passage through France, everywhere made known the virtues of the drug,
+and recommended it to the particular attention of Cardinal Mazarin, as the
+brethren of the order had begun to drive quite a lucrative trade in South
+American China bark, which they had carried on by their missionaries. V.
+Humboldt's "_Ansichten der Natur_," third edition, 1849, vol. ii. p. 372.
+
+[153] See Humboldt's Ansichten der Natur. Third edition. 1849. Vol. ii. p.
+319.
+
+[154] Senor Emilio Escobar of Lima sent me a small flask of a hitherto
+little-known vegetable stuff, which gives very much the same dye as the
+cochineal insect, and is found in great abundance throughout Peru. I have
+added this bottle of dye, which at all events merits more minute
+investigation, to the other collections of the _Novara_ Expedition.
+
+[155] In 1859, there were forwarded, according to official documents:
+
+                                           From        From
+                                      Aspinwall   Panama to
+                                     to Panama.  Aspinwall.     Totals.
+
+  Passengers                             23,206      16,567      39,773
+
+  Bullion                             3,146,983  57,097,061  60,244,044
+
+  Mail parcels of the U.S.      pounds  643,752     184,395     828,147
+
+   "       "        England       "      47,060       8,824      55,884
+
+  Merchandise                   tons     17,278       3,802      21,080
+
+  Coal.                           "       7,618      ------       7,618
+
+  Personal baggage              pounds   67,698      62,581     130,279
+
+[156] The cost of keeping in repair is not less than L100,000 per annum,
+owing to the destroying energies of the atmosphere and of insects, as also
+of the rapid growth of vegetation, to keep which under employs not less
+than 3000 labourers.
+
+[157] The statistics of mortality among the various races on the Isthmus
+for the year 1858 give the following results.
+
+  Of the natives, there die annually      1 in 50
+  "      immigrant negroes                1 in 40
+  "      Coolies                          1 in 40
+  "      Europeans                        1 in 30
+  "      Chinese                          1 in 10
+
+
+                  [Illustration: The Austrian Eagle]
+
+
+
+
+                                XXIII.
+
+                      From Gibraltar to Trieste.
+
+                    From 7th to 26th August, 1859.
+
+    First circumstantial details of the War of 1859.--Alterations in
+    Gibraltar since our previous visit.--Science and Warfare.--
+    Voyage through the Mediterranean.--Messina.--The _Novara_ taken
+    in tow by the War-steamer _Lucia_.--Gravosa.--Ragusa.--Arrival
+    of H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian at Gravosa.--
+    Presentation of the Staff.--Banquet on board the screw-corvette
+    _Dandolo_.--Pola.--Roman Amphitheatre.--Porta Aurea.--Triumphal
+    return to Trieste.--Retrospect of the achievements and general
+    scientific results of the Expedition.--Concluding Remarks.
+
+
+Eighty-two days elapsed between the departure of the _Novara_ from
+Valparaiso and her arrival in the harbour of Gibraltar. They had been as
+many days of dreadful trial and disaster for our country! While the good
+ship was careering along in mid ocean, and in an unusually short space of
+time had sailed over 10,600 nautical miles, the fortune of arms had gone
+against our House, and we now heard for the first time of the desperate
+battles, the heavy losses, the sudden armistice of Villafranca! The
+Commodore at once telegraphed to Trieste the news of our arrival, and
+asked for further instructions.
+
+Among our friends and acquaintances at Gibraltar many changes and
+alterations had taken place. The former Governor, Sir James Ferguson, had
+in the interim been replaced by Sir W. Codrington. The Austrian Consul,
+the estimable Mr. Longlands Cowell, was dead, and in his stead Mr. Frembly
+attended provisionally to the duties of the office.
+
+The heads of the community, the Governor, the staff, Mr. Creswell,
+Postmaster-General, Mr. Frembly, &c., paid us marked attention on our
+present visit. Singular to say, no one here seemed to be aware of our
+having been declared neutral by most of the European powers, thanks to the
+far-sighted circumspection of the projector of the voyage, and
+consequently some apprehension had been felt lest some warships of the
+enemy might have encountered the _Novara_ in American waters. But albeit
+of late years we have been pretty well accustomed to see even written
+treaties trodden underfoot, yet, in the present instance, the capture of
+the _Novara_ had been stringently prohibited to all French cruisers. For
+even in the Tuileries the consequences of such an abuse of power had been
+well foreseen; it was felt moreover even there, that in our time the most
+powerful can no longer dispense with science or disregard its interests,
+that any violence offered to her votaries is an outrage upon mankind and
+civilization. So great, indeed, was the anxiety felt at Paris to avoid any
+possible collision with the _Novara_, that in addition to the existing
+declaration of neutrality, special orders were dispatched by the French
+Government, and from amid the din of battle and the thunder of artillery,
+the word went forth: "The _Novara_ may proceed unmolested, for she is
+freighted with scientific treasures, and science is the common benefit of
+all nations!"
+
+On 7th of August, a telegraphic dispatch was received in the course of the
+morning from the Lord High Admiral, with instructions for the _Novara_ to
+proceed under sail to Messina, where a war-steamer would be in waiting to
+take us in tow. The same afternoon we weighed anchor on our way up the
+Mediterranean.
+
+On 15th August we sighted the northern shores of Sicily, and the same
+evening could plainly perceive the brilliant red lights of the newly
+erected lighthouse on Cape San Vito, the extreme N.W. point of the island.
+Diversified by frequent calms, and but occasionally favoured with gentle
+breezes, our progress was necessarily very slow. On the 16th we passed the
+island of Ustica, and the following day the Lipari Islands, and at last,
+about 7 A.M. of the 18th, we reached the Straits of Messina. A pilot who
+came on board informed us that an Austrian war-steamer was lying off
+Messina. Orders were now given to fire a few blank shot, to advise her
+commander of our arrival in the Straits, after which we resumed our
+course. A few hours more and we were in tow of the steamer, which proved
+to be the _Lucia_, the same vessel which upwards of two years before had
+brought us as far as Messina on our outward voyage. We now received
+letters from friends and relatives at home, as also the customary and
+inevitable poetical effusion, which some sailor poet had written on "The
+Return of the _Novara_."
+
+On the night of the 19th August we were off Cape Santa Maria di Leuca,
+which marks the entrance of the Adriatic Gulf, and in the afternoon of the
+following day passed Caste Nuovo near Cattaro, and the same night anchored
+in the harbour of Gravosa in Dalmatia. The captain of the _Lucia_ had been
+dispatched to bring us hither, there to wait further orders.
+
+The following morning, Sunday, 21st August, the naturalists and superior
+officers made an excursion to the highly interesting city of Ragusa, only
+a few miles distant, which communicates with Gravosa by a beautiful wide
+well-kept road. For the first time in 28 months our feet once more trod
+our native soil.
+
+Next morning, about nine, the imperial steam yacht _Fantasie_ came into
+port, with H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian on board, accompanied
+by the Archduchess. The Lord High Admiral stood on the paddle-box, and
+saluted us most heartily, repeatedly waving his cap, to which the crew of
+the _Novara_ replied by a shout that made the welkin ring. The
+screw-corvette _Dandolo_ shortly after anchored near us.
+
+About noon the Archduke came on board, and inspected the crew and ship,
+after which he expressed himself in the most kind terms to the officers of
+the ship and the scientific corps of the expedition. The Archduchess
+afterwards had a levee, at which the officers and naturalists had the
+honour of being presented to her Highness, who addressed to each a few
+gracious words of welcome and interest.
+
+In the evening there was an elegant banquet of forty covers, at which the
+Archduke presided, his consort also sharing in the festivities, during
+which his Highness distinguished the members of the Expedition in
+proposing the toast, "The men of the _Novara_, whose names will belong to
+Austrian history."
+
+On 23rd August our frigate, accompanied by the _Lucia_ and the
+screw-corvette _Dandolo_, sailed for Pola. Shortly before our departure
+the Archduke again came on board, and himself brought with him a long list
+of promotions. The entire crew were promoted one grade, and all the
+midshipmen were made officers.
+
+On the 25th August we passed, during the morning, the light-tower of
+Promontore, standing on a solitary rock that rises out of the sea, hardly
+a cable's length from the shore, and at 11 reached Pola, the chief naval
+arsenal of Austria. Here we availed ourselves of the stoppage to visit
+some of the classical monuments of Pola.
+
+Few cities can present better-preserved or more extensive mementoes of
+Roman architecture than this, the ancient _Pietas Julia_, so named because
+shortly after its destruction by Julius Caesar, it was rebuilt at the
+instance of Julia, the daughter of Augustus. The majestic amphitheatre, of
+elliptical form, rises on the slope of the hills, so that to remedy the
+inequality of the ground the portion next the sea is held up by a
+succession of buttresses. The dazzling white of the stone does not present
+any traces by which one would guess its age. This relic of antiquity is in
+far better preservation than the Colosseum of Rome, or the Amphitheatre of
+Verona, and would have been far more perfect had it not been used as a
+stone-quarry during the days of Venetian supremacy, when entire ship-loads
+of this brilliant white stone were transported to Venice, there to be used
+as building material.
+
+Near the amphitheatre, on the side next the city, the stranger is struck
+by another beautiful edifice, the _Porta Aurea_ (golden gate), a
+monumental structure in the Corinthian style, which, according to one of
+the inscriptions, was erected by his widow, Salvia, at her own expense, in
+honour of Lucius Sergius Lepidus, tribune. For harmony of proportion,
+richness and elegance of decoration, and perfect preservation, it may be
+cited as one of the best existing specimens of Roman architecture. A
+temple to Augustus and another to Diana also attract the astonished gaze
+of the artist and antiquary, while many another object of classical
+interest lies prostrate on the earth for want of means, or perhaps, more
+probably, through indifference. It is highly probable that, with the
+rapid development of the town, some interest will also be taken in
+preserving its antiquities.
+
+The importance of this spacious, easily accessible, secure, and
+well-fortified harbour, induced the Austrian Government during the last
+few years to commence public works on a large scale, which was
+munificently projected and fully carried out, and have resulted in opening
+for Pola a prospect of future importance second to none on the Adriatic,
+making it the Portsmouth of the Austrian Empire.
+
+In the evening we again set sail, and about 11 A.M. of the 26th escorted
+by a squadron of above a dozen ships of war, in two columns, the one led
+by H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, the other by our Commodore,
+we neared the imposing roadstead of Trieste. As the _Novara_ passed
+beneath the walls of the splendid chateau of Miramar, the residence of the
+Archduke, a guard of artillery saluted the home-returning wanderer, and
+almost immediately afterwards the cannon of the citadel of Trieste
+thundered forth their salute.
+
+A Lloyd's steamer, having on board the principal officials of the city, as
+also a few friends, was now seen wending its way towards us with a band of
+music on board, and fell into the procession. The latter made its way,
+enveloped in clouds of smoke, to the picturesquely-situated city, as far
+as the Bay of Muggia, where each ship let go her anchor in her appointed
+position, and--THE VOYAGE WAS OVER.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On the transcriber of the foregoing literary detail of the incidents of
+the voyage of the _Novara_ still devolves the task of presenting a brief
+summary of the chief objects aimed at, and the actual scientific results
+attained by the Imperial Expedition, so as to moderate the exaggerated
+expectations of one set of readers, and to rectify the hasty, depreciatory
+judgment of others, by stating obvious and convincing facts.
+
+He feels, above all, compelled to examine the question, which not alone
+criticism but the entire educated world will address with reference to an
+undertaking begun under such auspices and of such universal interest,
+"What are the actual results, and what those to be anticipated from the
+_Novara_ Expedition? How did its members respond to the efforts made to
+provide them with every possible appliance that munificence could supply?"
+
+In order aright to answer this query, whether the first Austrian
+Expedition round the globe has really answered the expectations formed of
+it, it is necessary to bear in mind that its first and foremost object was
+the instruction on an adequate scale of the officers and midshipmen of the
+Imperial navy, and that scientific investigation was always regarded as of
+secondary importance to that chief object.
+
+The descriptive portion of the voyage of the _Novara_ must be considered
+simply as the precursor of a series of scientific publications which,
+thanks to Imperial munificence, will be published at the expense
+of the State. The nautico-physical portion will include the
+astronomico-geodetical, magnetic, and meteorological observations made
+throughout the voyage, and will appear under the auspices of the
+Imperial hydrographic Institution at Trieste.
+
+The abundant materials collected in the departments of natural history,
+statistics, and commercial policy, will be prepared by the various
+gentlemen who accompanied the Expedition, and comprise as many sections as
+there were scientific branches represented on board ship during the
+voyage. These publications will embrace, in a collected form, the
+observations, investigations, and results obtained in the course of the
+entire campaign, relating to Geology, Zoology, Botany, Ethnography and
+Anthropology, Medicine, Statistics, and Trade.
+
+And while these various works can only after their publication admit of a
+just opinion being formed as to what has been achieved in this respect by
+the Expedition, the numerous and valuable collections of objects of
+natural history already give an idea of the activity and research of each
+member of the scientific staff in the course of the voyage.
+
+The zoological collection comprises above 26,000 specimens, partly
+collected by the two zoologists themselves, partly presented or purchased;
+they consist of 320 mammalia, 1500 birds, 950 amphibiae, 2000 fish, 6550
+conchyliae, 13,000 insects, 950 crustacea, 500 molluscs, 60 skeletons, 50
+skulls, 120 nests, and 150 eggs.
+
+The botanical portion embraces several very comprehensive and valuable
+_herbaria_ and collections of seeds (in selecting the latter the
+capabilities of the various portions of the Empire were carefully borne
+in mind, with reference to the power of propagating the plant), besides a
+large quantity of fruits and flowers of tropical plants, preserved in
+acetic acid or alcohol, as also Indian and Chinese drugs, and specimens of
+ornamental and useful woods.
+
+The mineralogical, petrographical, and palaeontological collections consist
+of several thousand specimens of mineralogy and petrifactions, part
+collected by the geologist himself, part presented by scientific
+Institutes, or private donors, or purchased.
+
+The ethnographic collection embraces 376 objects, such as weapons of the
+most diverse form, house utensils and implements of labour, ornaments,
+amulets, carvings, idols, headgears, masks, pieces of clothing, models,
+textile fabrics, manufactures in bark, musical instruments, Cingalese
+manuscripts, as also fragments of palm-leaves, bamboo-reeds, and bark, all
+variously transcribed. Some of these various objects are the more
+interesting, as furnishing, so to speak, the last proofs of the aboriginal
+skill which, in proportion to the increasing intercourse of the savage
+tribes with European civilization, is rapidly diminishing, and in all the
+principal colonies may be considered as already extinguished.
+
+The anthropological collection consists of 100 skulls of various races of
+men, and includes a complete Bushman-skeleton, besides a great variety of
+interesting physiological and pathologico-anatomical preparations.
+
+But it is not merely in its general, nautical, scientific, and
+politico-economical features that the voyage of the _Novara_ has reacted
+in a suggestive and instructing manner upon those who were privileged to
+belong to the Expedition. It has widened the horizon of political
+knowledge, presented the opportunity of instituting interesting
+comparisons between the conditions of the various countries visited, and
+has furnished many an instructive insight into the transmuting process,
+which the possession of civil and religious liberty effects upon the
+material welfare and intellectual energy of every race and land, from pole
+to pole. And although mankind is subjected to the powerful influences of
+climate, nourishment, soil, and natural phenomena in general, yet it is
+not less certain that by freely developing the physical and intellectual
+powers, those influences may be materially limited in extent of operation,
+and modified in practice; so that, while we see a people inhabiting a
+country, where Nature has lavished her utmost treasures of fertility,
+beauty, and loveliness, languishing spiritually and physically under the
+oppression of a despotic power, and the land itself hastening to
+impoverishment and decay, we perceive on the other hand that another, far
+less favourably situated, has been able under free institutions to become
+by its own unaided energy the marvel of all nations, colonizing every
+region of the earth, and extending its commercial and political importance
+over the entire universe.
+
+What a melancholy picture of stagnation and decay is presented by the
+Spanish and Portuguese possessions in Asia, Africa, and the West Indies,
+by the Slave-empire of Brazil, and the Hispano-American Republics, with
+their mestizo dictators, as compared with the mighty development and
+glorious promise of the British colonies in Asia, Africa, America, and
+Australia, governed as they are by constitutional laws, and enjoying full
+civil and religious rights! Here the energy of free self-governing men,
+aided by a keen spirit of enterprise and investigation, has obtained a
+victory over all impediments of a primeval nature, and not alone opened to
+European civilization new channels for the extension of commerce and
+industry, but also accomplished important social and political reforms,
+for which many a civilized state in old Europe is still sighing in vain!
+
+And to the German who has circumnavigated the globe, the consideration of
+these lofty themes is mingled with a glow of pride and satisfaction, in
+reflecting that it is a kindred Anglo-Saxon race, to whom apparently has
+been assigned the glorious mission of diffusing a new life over the earth,
+of carrying the light of Christian civilization, of political liberty, and
+spiritual culture, to the most primitive tribes in the furthest regions of
+the world, and of heralding, amid the ruins of slavery and despotism, the
+day-spring of a lasting era of Freedom, Peace, and Prosperity!
+
+
+                               THE END.
+
+
+
+
+                                      VOL. II.
+
+                                    APPENDIX A.
+
+                                   A VOCABULARY
+
+                         (ARRANGED UPON GALATIN'S SYSTEM)
+
+          OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE NATIVES OF THE NICOBAR ARCHIPELAGO.[158]
+
+
+  Name of object in   | Dialect used in      | Dialect used in       | Corresponding words
+  English.            | Kar Nicobar          | the Central Group,    | used by the Malay
+                      | (called PUH by       | consisting of the     | inhabitants of Pulo
+                      | the natives).        | islands of Nangkauri, | Penang, 5 deg. 25' N.,
+                      | The most northerly   | Kamorta, Pulo Milu,   | 100 deg. 21' E.
+                      | island, 9 deg. 10' N.,   | Kondul, and Lesser    |
+                      | 93 deg. 36' E.           | Nicobar.              |
+                      |                      |                       |
+                      |                      |                       |
+  God                 | ----                 | ----                  | ----
+  evil spirit         | ----                 | eewee                 | hontu
+  man                 | kigonje              | bahju                 | orang
+  people              | tarik                | ----                  | ----
+  woman               | kigana               | angana                | poorampuan
+  old woman           | ----                 | angana-oomiaha        | ----
+  boy                 | luenda               | kanioom               | booda-kitschi
+  lad                 | marengla             | iluh                  | ----
+  young girl          | nia-kookana          | kanioom-angana        | booda-poorampuan
+  child               | nia                  | poa                   | ana-kitschi
+  father              | jong                 | tschia                | bapa
+  my father           | jong-tioo            | ----                  | ----
+  mother              | kamiojan             | tschia-angana         | ma, mak
+  old man             | jong-nia             | angonje               | chaudau
+  old woman, feeble   | ----                 | koomhoois             | chaudan-poorampooan
+    woman             |                      |                       |
+  son                 | kooan                | goan or iluh          | ana-chaudan
+  daughter            | kooan                | kanioom-angana        | ana-pooram-pooan
+  brother             | kanana               | tschao-angana         | kaka
+  head                | kooi                 | goeh                  | kapala
+  hair                | kooia                | jogh                  | ramut
+  face                | gua                  | matschaka             | mooka
+  forehead            | mal                  | lal                   | dai
+  ear                 | nang                 | neng                  | talenga
+  earrings worn by    |                      |                       |
+    natives           | nang                 | itiei                 | --
+  eye                 | mat                  | oal-mat               | matta
+  eyebrows            | --                   | ok-mat                | --
+  nose                | elme                 | moah                  | idong
+  nostrils            | --                   | ol-moah               | lo-bang-idong
+  chin                | --                   | enkoin                | dagoo
+  cheek               | --                   | tapoah                | pipi
+  breast              | --                   | alendaja              | dada
+  throat, larynx      | --                   | ungnoka               | kronkougan
+  calf of the leg     | --                   | kanmoana              | jantong-bootis
+  mouth               | minu                 | manoing               | mulot
+  tongue              | litag                | kaletag               | lida
+  tooth               | kanap                | kanap                 | jijee
+  beard               | main-kooa            | inhoing               | boolo-bao
+  neck                | likun                | unlongha              | tinko
+  arm                 | kel                  | koal                  | langan
+  hand                | koontee              | oktai                 | tangan
+  palm of the hand    | --                   | oal-tai               | --
+  finger              | heng                 | kani-tai              | charee
+  nail                | kiuso                | kaischua              | kookoo
+  body or trunk       | alaha                | okaha                 | badan
+  belly               | aik                  | wuiang                | baroot
+  navel               | --                   | fon                   | boosat
+  thigh               | kaldran              | boolo                 | paha
+  foot                | eldran               | lah                   | tapa-kaki
+  toes                | kundran              | kanech-lah _or_       | daloognoo-kaki
+                      |                      |   ok lah              |
+  bone                | tangae               | ung-ejing             | toolang
+  skin                | --                   | ihe                   | kooleet
+  knee                | --                   | kohanoang             | lutot
+  heart               | fanieoola            | kioyen                | hangat
+  blood               | maham                | wooah                 | dara
+  village             | panam                | mattai                | kampong
+  chief               | mah                  | oomiah-mattai         | capitan, capitan-kampong
+  warrior             | hol                  |  --                   | toomoh
+  friend              | moowee               | jol                   | bai, bania-bai
+  friendship          | holdra               |  --                   | --
+  house, hut          | patee                | njee                  | rooma
+  kettle              | tzitoom              | poonhagua             | balanga, panel
+  arrow               | alindreng            | bel                   | ana-pana
+  bow                 | lindreng             | donna                 | pana
+  axe, hatchet        | hanyeng              | enloin                | kapa
+  flint               | --                   | hindel                | sanapang
+  cannon              | --                   | hin-wau               | mariam
+   shot               | --                   | hadeel                | pasang-boodeel
+  knife               | sooreeta             | kahanap               | pisoh
+  canoe, or boat      | ap                   | deua                  | sampan
+  rudder              |  --                  | duende-dol-deuea       | --
+  shoe                | kundroka             | zapatos               | kasut, supatu
+                      |                      | (corruption of        |
+                      |                      | Portuguese)           |
+  bread               | peko                 | puang                 | roti
+                      |                      | (Portuguese, pan)     |
+  pipe, whistle       | ripa                 | tanop                 | hundchue
+  to smoke            | --                   | top-oomhoi            | asap
+  tobacco             | tobacco              | oomhoi                | tumbako
+  bamboo tobacco-box  | oorang               | --                    | --
+  heaven              | halyang              | oal, galahaja         | langeet
+  sun                 | tawuo                | heng                  | mataharee
+  moon                | chingat              | kahae                 | boolan
+  full-moon           | soho                 | --                    | --
+  star                | tanoosamat           | shokmaleicha          | bintang
+  day                 | tahei                | heng                  | tsara
+  night               | atam                 | hatam                 | malam
+  darkness            | sangoola             | doochool              | bania-galap
+  morning             | haarei               | hagee                 | pagee
+  day after to-morrow | --                   | chayeslang            | hiso-pagee-pagee
+  evening             | harap                | ladiaya               | patang
+  summer              | talak                | koi-kapa              | poolan-nam
+  (i. e. the dry or   |                      | (N.E. monsoon)        |
+    fine season)      |                      |                       |
+  winter              | koomra               | sohong                | barat
+  (i. e. the rainy    |                      | (S.W. monsoon)        |
+    season)           |                      |                       |
+  wind                | koofott              | hash                  | angeen
+  lightning           | nieinaka             | mait                  | kilat
+  thunder             | koonroka             | komtoogna             | gooroh
+  rain                | koomra               | ama                   | oosan
+  clouds              | talool               | galahaya              | awan
+  east                | --                   | hash-fooly            | teemor
+  west                | --                   | hash-sohang           | barat
+  south               | --                   | hash-lahhna           | slatan
+  north               | --                   | hash-kapa             | ootara
+  fire                | tamoia               | hioye                 | apee
+  to kindle a fire    |                      |                       |
+    with bamboo       | kiseit               | --                    | --
+  water               | neak                 | dak                   | ajair
+  salt-water          |  --                  | kamaleh               | aja-masseen
+  sand                | toomlat              | peeet                 | pasoi
+  earth, land         | panamm               | oal-mattai            | kampong
+  sea                 | maee                 | oal-kamaleh           | aja-masseen
+  flood-tide          |  --                  | hayjaoo               | ajair-bah
+  ebb                 |  --                  | tchoh                 | sooroot
+  river               | tit-mak              | hiajarak              | soongway
+  valley              |  --                  | alhoda                | lemba
+  hill                | yogle                | kohinjuan             | boojett (boo-keett)
+  mountain, forest    | koochionn            |  --                   | boojett-bassa
+  island              | panam, poolgna       | poolgna, mattai       | poolo
+  stone, rock         | chong                | mangah                | batoo
+  brass               | mas                  | kalahaee              | tamaga
+  iron                | wert                 | kadao                 | bacee, (bucee)
+  tree                | kaha-chionn          | koy-unjeeha           | atas-kayoo
+  wood                | chionn               | oomnoeet              | kayoo
+  leaf                | droee-chionn         | da-unjeeha            | daaeen-kayoo
+  bark                | ook-chionn           | ok-unjeeha            | coolie-kayor
+  grass               | kaee-op              | oobjooab              | roombot
+  human flesh         | alaha                |  --                   |  --
+  flesh               | kirinee              | okaooha               | koolett
+  pork                | naoon                |  --                   |  --
+  parrot              | sakaha               | katok                 | buron-bajan nori, kastooree
+  maina (bird         | kachalao             | sichooa               | buron-tionn
+    known as          |                      |                       |
+    _Graculus         |                      |                       |
+    Indicus_)         |                      |                       |
+  cocoa-palm          | kahataooka           | oocejaoo              | nionn
+  green cocoa-nut     | taooka               | njaoo                 | nionn-mooda
+  ripe cocoa-nut      | toowooayka           | gnoatt                | massa
+  banana              | tanioonga            | hiboo                 | pisang
+  sugar-cane          | lamooa               | --                    | tooboo
+  yam                 | toltatchiong         | --                    | koontang oobee-boonggala
+  anana               | --                   | choodoo               | avanas
+  _Carica-papaya_     |   popay              |   popay               |   papaya
+  pandanus            | --                   | larohm                | --
+  palm-wine           | --                   | doagh                 | tooak
+  (toddy)             |                      |                       |
+  pig                 | --                   | not                   | babi
+  ape                 | ointchi              | dooaeen-kaeen         | grah
+  dog                 | ahm                  | ahm                   | autching
+  cock                | hayam                | kamooe-koep           | ajam-tchantan
+  hen                 | kooan-hayam          | {kon-kamooe  }        | ajam-booteena
+                      |                      | {tschi-kamooe}        |
+  rat                 | komet                | --                    | tikus
+  cat                 | koomeao              | --                    | kootching
+  serpent, snake      | petsch               | paeetya, toolan       | oolah
+  bird                | tschi-aitchou        | sitchua               | booron
+  egg (generally)     | ooha                 | hooeeja               | toolo
+  hen's egg           | --                   | hooeeja-kamooe        | tulo-ajam
+  dove                | makooka              | moomooh               | pregam-moorpati
+  fish                | kah                  | gah                   | ikan
+  paper               | --                   | laeeberi              | koortas
+  lead-pencil         | --                   | anet-laeeberi         | halam-teemah
+  key                 | --                   | tenooan               | anak-kuntchi
+  chain               | --                   | malao                 | rantik
+  white               | teso                 | tenjeea               | pootay
+  black               | turing               | oeel                  | itam
+  black coat          | --                   | loaim-oeel            | --
+  red                 | sakalatt             | ak                    | mayra
+  blue                | turing               | tchoongoa             | kalaboo
+  dark-blue           | turing               | --                    | --
+  light-blue          | tatooka              | --                    | --
+  yellow              | tangao               | laaom                 | koonceng
+  green               | faiall               | tchoongoa             | itcho
+  large               | marola               | kadoo                 | loas
+  small               | keejilong            | oompaeetche           | kitchee
+  strong              | takale-alah          | koang                 | prat
+  old                 | mah                  | boomooashe oomiaha    | tooa
+  young               | neeay                | eelooh                | mooda
+  good                | talack               | lapow                 | bagooce
+  bad                 | atlack               | hadlapa               | tabaee
+  pretty              | talacka-kooa         | lapoa                 | baee
+  very beautiful      | --                   | ilote-lapoa           | bania-baee
+  ugly                | atlacka-kooa         | jooh                  | hang
+  living              | atkappa              | ahn                   | deeaa
+  dead                | koopa                | kapa                  | matti
+  cold                | leejeet              | kaay                  | sitchoo
+  warm                | wooang, or wayee-low | keeojan               | hang-at
+  I                   | teeooa               | teeooa                | saja
+  thou                | mough                | mooayh                | aug
+  he                  | kna                  | ahn                   | deea
+  we                  | --                   | teeoe                 | keeta, kami
+  ye or you           | --                   | eefoe                 | augkaoo
+  they                | --                   | efoe-bajoo-oomtohm    | dia-orang, or marikaeetoo
+  this                | eenay                | neeae or neena        | seenee, eenee
+  that                | oomoo                | anaay                 | seetoo
+  all                 | rokayra              | oomtohm               | samooaa
+  much                | maronga              | ootohatche            | bania, baniak
+  who?                | akeea?               | tchee?                | sapaee? (seeappa)
+  who is he?          | --                   | tchick-ahn?           | --
+  near                | raayta               | meayhoa               | dakatt
+  distant             | --                   | hoee                  | tchao
+  very far            | --                   | hoee-kah              | --
+  to-day              | tahaee               | lenheng               | arynee, haree
+  yesterday           | wahay                | mandioj               | koomareen, klamareen
+  to-morrow           | hoorayeek            | hakayee               | heeso (bisok)
+  yes                 | hoan                 | aon                   | ija
+  no                  | drahawa              | ooat                  | tida
+  one                 | hang                 | hayang                | satoo
+  two                 | anatt                | ah                    | dooa
+  three               | looay                | loeh                  | teega
+  four                | foen                  | fooan                 | oompatt
+  five                | tanayee              | tanayee               | leema
+  six                 | tafool               | tafooel               | njam
+  seven               | sat                  | ishiatt               | tootcho
+  eight               | haware               | oenfoan               | lapann
+  nine                | matiootare           | hayang-hata           | sambilan
+  ten                 | som                  | som                   | siboolo
+  eleven              | kaook-seeen          | som-hayang            | sebelass
+  twelve              | ah-sien              | som-ah                | dooabelass
+  thirteen            | looay-sien           | som-loay              | teejabelass
+  twenty              | kaook-matiama        | heng-oomtchoma        | dua-poolow
+  twenty-one          | kaook-matiama-heng   | heng-oomtchoma-heang  | dua-poolow-satoo
+  twenty-two          | kaook-matiama-anatt  | heng-oomtchoma-ah     | dua-poolow-dua
+  thirty              | looay-kanyoo         | heng-oomtchoma-toktay | tiga-poolow
+  forty               | foen-kanyoo           | ahm-oomtchoma         | ampatt-poolow
+  fifty               | tanayee-kanyoo       | ahm-oomtchoma-toktay  | leema-poolow
+  sixty               | tafool-kanyoo        | looay-oomtchoma       | njam-poolow
+  hundred             | heng-ohn             | som-oomtchoma         | saratooce
+  thousand            | som-ohn              | --                    | sirryboo
+  to eat              | nia                  | naok                  | makan
+  one who eats        | --                   | oog-naok              | --
+  to drink            | koen                  | taoop                 | minoong
+  one who drinks      | --                   | oog-taoop             | --
+  to run              | kayann               | deeann                | laree
+  to dance            | kueliam               | kataoga               | maaen, murari
+  to go               | keerangary           | tchoo                 | bigee
+  to grow slowly      | att-kayan            | --                    | --
+  to sing             | tingocka             | aekasha               | magnanee
+  to sleep            | loom                 | eetayak               | teedow
+  to speak            | roa                  | olliowla              | sakapp
+  to see              | mooak                | hadah, oog-hadah      | tengo
+  to love             | hanganlon            | soojonghien           | bania-kesseeen
+  to kill             | sap                  | oorree                | boton, boonoh
+  to cut one's self   | --                   | ottah                 | --
+  to sit              | ratt                 | katoe                  | doodo
+  to sit down         | --                   | booja                 | --
+  to stand            | talann               | ocksheeaga            | badyree
+  to come             | jeehee               | kaaytery              | maree
+  to yawn             | --                   | hengap                | moongwap
+  to laugh            | --                   | itee                  | toortawa
+  to weep             | --                   | teeoom                | moonangis
+  native stringed     |                      |                       |
+  instrument          |                      |                       |
+   (_see_ p. 122)     | --                   | dennang               | --
+  _areca_-nut         | tissah               | heejah                | pinang
+  coral chalk         | soonam               | shonn                 | kapoor
+  betel-leaf          | koorania             | hakayee, aray         | siree
+  tortoise-shell      | kap                  | ----                  | koolet-kara
+  fly                 | inlooayee            | jooay                 | lapatt
+  mosquito            | moosoka              | mihoja                | njamo
+  feather or pencil   | kanuitch             | anet-layeebery        | kalam
+  wing                | ----                 | danowen               | sajap
+  name                | minanee              | lermay                | namaa
+  what is your name?  | ----                 | kin-lermay            | apa-namaa
+  weapon              | hinwott              | hindell               | boodeel
+  cow-pox             | mallock              | ----                  | tcha-tchar
+  white man           | isohokooa            | bajoo-tatenn-hamatt   | orang-bootay
+  a Malay or          |                      |                       |
+    yellow man        | ----                 | kolog-hamatt          | orang-mayra
+  black man           | ----                 | taoln-hamatt          | orang-itam
+  voyage or journey   | ----                 | johatayha             | blajarr
+  doctor              | manlooena            | manlooena             | bornow
+  honey               | ----                 | ----                  | lapaa
+  flute (_see_        |                      |                       |
+    p. 122)           | ----                 | hinhell               | bangsee
+
+
+
+
+                             APPENDIX B.
+
+                             VOCABULARY
+
+                       (UPON GALATIN'S SYSTEM)
+
+       OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NATIVES OF PUYNIPET ISLAND (CAROLINE
+             ARCHIPELAGO) AND SIKAYANA, OR STEWART'S ISLAND.
+
+
+                          |   Puynipet,                |   Sikayana,
+  Object.                 |  6 deg. 48' N.,                | 8 deg. 24' 24'' N.,
+                          | 158 deg. 14' E.                |    163 deg. E.
+                          |                            |
+  man                     | ooleen                     | tanata
+  apparel (men's)         | koall                      | --
+  men, people             | aramass                    | --
+  woman                   | lee                        | fafeeny
+  apparel (women's)       | lee-kooty                  | --
+  boy                     | tchirri-maoon              | tamali-kirriky
+  girl                    | tchirri-payni              | tama-feeny
+  father                  | paba                       | tamana
+  mother                  | nono                       | tinana
+  old man                 |  --                        | tilui-tanata
+  old woman               | booot                      | tama
+  son                     |  --                        | areeky
+  brother                 | reeagey                    | taeena
+  sister                  | reeagey-lee                | kawe
+  workman or slave        | aramass-a-mal              | --
+  head                    | --                         | debosoulu
+  hair                    | --                         | ladoo
+  face                    | --                         | lofee-mata
+  brow                    | --                         | moa-lai
+  ear                     | --                         | kaootalina
+  eye                     | --                         | karimata
+  nose                    | --                         | kai-joosoo
+  mouth                   | --                         | moa-joosoo
+  tongue                  | --                         | alaydo
+  tooth                   | --                         | nitcho
+  beard                   | --                         | babaee
+  neck                    | --                         | teoowa
+  arm                     | --                         | leema
+  hand or finger          | --                         | motikao
+  nail                    | --                         | padde
+  body                    | --                         | fuaitino
+  belly                   | --                         | manawa
+  thigh or leg            | --                         | koonawaee
+  foot                    | --                         | sapoowaee
+  toes                    | --                         | motikao-waee
+  bone                    | --                         | tayeewee
+  heart                   | --                         | wagga-wagga
+  blood                   | --                         | toto
+  village                 | --                         | takaeena
+  chief                   | tchobity                   | alikee
+  high-chief              | tchobity-lappilap          | --
+  a king                  | nanamareeky                | --
+  minister                | nannekin                   | --
+  warrior                 | --                         | patooa
+  friend                  | --                         | tosoah
+  house, hut              | nanoom                     | tamafalee
+  bow and arrow           | katchin-kotayoo            | --
+  musket                  | kotchack                   | --
+  cannon                  | kotchak-lappilap           | --
+  spear                   | kotayoo                    | --
+  saw                     | ratch-a-ratch              | --
+  knife                   | kapoot                     | nife (Anglice knife)
+  young bamboo            | aleck                      | --
+  cocoa-palm              | erring                     | nyoo
+  old cocoa-nut           | erring                     | mata-seelee
+  young cocoa-nut         | payeen                     | kamatoo
+  yam                     | kaap                       | --
+  sugar-cane              | katchin-tchoo              | --
+  bread-fruit             | mahee                      | --
+  banana                  | oot                        | --
+  ginger                  | goonapella                 | --
+  food                    | moonga                     | --
+  rope                    | shaal                      | --
+  coral                   | paeena                     | --
+  reef                    | mat                        | --
+  ship's mast             | kow                        | --
+  ship                    | tchob                      | --
+  mainsail                | tcherrick                  | --
+  launch                  | wooarr                     | wakka
+  large ship, man-of-war  | --                         | wakka-wakka
+  go, fetch me a canoe    | kowa-golawata-ny-wooarr    | --
+  small canoe             | wooarr-madigadig           | --
+  war-canoe               | wooarr-ma-loot             | --
+  shoe                    | --                         | takka
+  bread                   | --                         | papay (from papaya)
+  pipe                    | peepo                      | meety-meety
+  tobacco                 | --                         | tobacco
+  smoke                   | atee-niagey                |
+                          |  (? act of sternutation is |
+                          |  intended to be expressed) | --
+  heaven                  | --                         | telaoo
+  sun                     | katerpin                   | telah
+  the sun scorches (_sc._ |                            |
+    the sun is evil)      | katerpinban-kara-kara      | --
+  moon                    | tschoonaboong              | malama
+  star                    | ootchoo                    | fatoo
+  day                     | --                         | trasonayee
+  light                   | --                         | taeejao
+  night                   | bong                       | tepoh
+  darkness                | --                         | pooori-taoo
+  morning                 | raan                       | tapa-taeejao
+  evening (little night)  | --                         | afee-afee
+  wind                    | katchi-niang               | --
+  lightning               | --                         | wooeela
+  thunder                 | --                         | mana
+  rain                    | katow                      | tamakee-tayoowa
+  the rain approaches     | katow-bankoto              | --
+  basket                  | kiam                       | --
+  distilled spirit        | jako-ni-waee               | --
+  fire                    | katchiniagey               | afee
+  water                   | peeel                      | wooaee
+  hot water (also tea)    | peeel-karakara             | --
+  earth, land             | tchaap                     | fanooa
+  sea                     | nantcheet                  | wooaee-taee
+  hill                    | --                         | faka-maoona
+  island                  | --                         | tama-fanova
+  stone, rock             | takee                      | fatoo
+  sand                    | pig                        | --
+  iron                    | --                         | keela
+  tree, wood              | tooee _or_ tooka           | lagaoo
+  sandal-wood             | tooka-pomow                | --
+  trepang                 | meneeka                    | --
+  red-trepang             | lekapasina-menelka-witata  | --
+  inferior sort           | lognan                     | --
+  best sort               | mayeen                     | --
+  black sort              | matup                      | --
+  trepang split open      | penapen                    | --
+  pearl-oyster            | paee                       | --
+  flesh                   | --                         | tayeeho
+  human flesh             | --                         | takeery
+  pig                     | piig (corrupted            | --
+                          |   from the English)        |
+  dog                     | --                         | kooree
+  bird                    | --                         | looppi
+  egg                     | --                         | tafooa
+  dove                    | moorie                     | --
+  domestic fowl           | maleek                     | --
+  fish                    | maaam                      | eeka
+  fool                    | booy-booee                 | --
+  hat                     | tchoroop                   | --
+  chisel                  | tcheela                    | --
+  flask                   | jug (English)              | --
+  calabash                | ay-jug                     | --
+  book                    | ay-ting                    | --
+  box                     | koba                       | --
+  native cucumber         | toor                       | --
+  apron                   | goal                       | --
+  fish-hook               | katcheen-mata              | --
+  musical instrument      | katchang                   | --
+  a liar                  | lakoompot                  | --
+  tortoise-shell          | katchinipoot               | masana
+  mosquito                | --                         | namoo
+  name                    | --                         | koai-to-mare
+  what is your name?      | idiatoom?                  | --
+  who are you?            | itch-kowa?                 | --
+  voyage, journey         | --                         | mamao
+  white                   | boot-a-boot                | mah
+  white-man               | oolyn-way                  | tamamah
+  black                   | tintol                     | ooree
+  black-man               | --                         | lama-ooree
+  red                     | witata                     | ayoola
+  blue, green             | --                         | ayooee
+  yellow                  | --                         | kikana
+  great                   | lappilap                   | naneeoo
+  small                   | madigidig                  | likee-likee
+  strong                  | --                         | faee-mafee
+  young                   | --                         | taaney
+  young man               | --                         | tama-taaney
+  good                    | mamo                       | aylaooe
+  long                    | mareerie                   | --
+  short                   | mootamoot                  | --
+  old                     | --                         | matooa
+  far                     | malooot                    | ma-mao
+  painfully alarmed       | matchek                    | --
+  bad                     | metchiwate                 | fa-keeno-keeno
+  beautiful               | katchilell                 | aylaosee
+  dead                    | metchilarr                 | koomatie
+  a dead man              | honi                       | --
+  bad odours              | --                         | puraoo
+  ugly (bad)              | --                         | fa-keeno-keeno
+  ill                     | tchoo-mo                   | ayeesoo
+  living                  | --                         | aylaooee
+  cold                    | --                         | makalili
+  warm                    | kara                       | mafana
+  hot                     | kara-kara                  | --
+  I, me                   | nej                        | enaoo
+  we                      | --                         | kohootoha
+  thou                    | --                         | akoee
+  he                      | --                         | tamala
+  ye or you               | noom                       | akoee
+  they                    | kowa                       | --
+  all                     | karootcheea                | kohoo-tohoo
+  much, many              | matoto                     | tama-kee
+  seldom                  | malolo                     | --
+  where?                  | aya?                       | --
+  who?                    | --                         | saya?
+  who's there?            | --                         | saya-tay?
+  which                   | itch                       | --
+  what?                   | ta?                        | --
+  what does that cost?    | taa-ban-pyn?               | --
+  to-day                  | raanauit                   | tai-jaoo
+  this night              | neeboong                   | --
+  near                    | --                         | taoo-preemaee
+  yesterday               | eejayo                     | na-nafee
+  long since              | kelanaydgo                 | --
+  to-morrow               | lo-koop                    | taya-soakee
+  yes                     | --                         | oh
+  I know                  | nejereera-neekee           | --
+  no                      | tcho                       | sayaee
+  I don't know            | nej-tyraneekee             | --
+  how do you call this?   | togata mett?               | --
+  enough, that's enough   | aare                       | --
+  there is no more        | allatcher                  | --
+  fast                    | bit-a-bit                  | --
+  one                     | aaat                       | taahee
+  two                     | aaree                      | rooah
+  three                   | tchil                      | torah
+  four                    | abang                      | fah
+  five                    | aylieem                    | leemah
+  six                     | oan                        | ono
+  seven                   | etch                       | feetoo
+  eight                   | ewal                       | waroo
+  nine                    | atoooo                     | seewo
+  ten                     | katingool etchak           | katawa
+  eleven                  | katingool-aat              | katawa-tahee
+  twelve                  | katingool-aree             | katawa-rooah
+  thirteen                | katingool-etchil           | katawa-tora
+  twenty                  | ree-etchak                 | mata-rooah
+  thirty                  | tchil-etchak               | mata-torah
+  forty                   | pa-etchak                  | mata-fah
+  fifty                   | lyeem-etchak               | mata-leema
+  sixty                   | oan-etchak                 | mata-on
+  hundred                 | a-bookie                   | lou
+  200                     | ree-a-bookie               | rooah-lou
+  300                     | tchil-abookie              | --
+  1000                    | ket                        | kutaioa-lou
+  5000                    | lyeem-a-ket                | --
+  2,505                   | ree-a-ket-lyeem-a-         | --
+                          |   bookie-elyeem            |
+  5,090                   | lyeem-a-ket-atoooo-        | --
+                          |   etchak                   |
+  4,440                   | pa-a-ket-pa-a-bookie-      | --
+                          |    pa-etchak               |
+  3,030                   | tchil-a-ket-tchil-etchak   | --
+  9,740                   | atoooo-a-ket-etch-         | --
+                          |   a-bookie-pa-etchak       |
+  10,990                  | noooo-atoooo-a-bookie-     | --
+                          |   atoooo-etchak            |
+  to eat                  | namenam                    | kaee
+  to drink                | --                         | oonoo
+  to run                  | --                         | saeeray
+  to dance                | --                         | anoo
+  to go                   | gota                       | anaaoo
+  to go ashore            | gota-nanchap               | --
+  to go up                | gota-waai                  | --
+  to descend              | goti-waai                  | --
+  I am going on board     | --                         | anaoo-gafano
+  I am going forward      | ny-ban-tchoomelaa          | --
+  whither go you?         | go-leejaa?                 | --
+  go on!                  | hugo-waai!                 | --
+  stand up!               | hoota!                     | --
+  wait!                   | hooti-mas                  | --
+  sit down                | monti                      | --
+  lie down                | wenti                      | --
+  to write or tattoo      | ting                       | --
+  to sing                 | --                         | besse
+  to sleep                | merilah                    | moi
+  to speak                | kalang                     | toka
+  to love                 | bukka-bukka                | anaoo-fifai-kikaoi
+  I do not love him       | eekah                      | --
+  the dead                | kummela                    | leekie-teea
+  It smells unpleasantly  | --                         | poor-aoo
+  to steal                | lyppirap                   | --
+  to sit                  | --                         | nofo
+  to stand                | --                         | anasani
+  to come                 | tongata                    | --
+  come back!              | broto                      | --
+  come here!              | ky-to                      | --
+  to bathe                | too-tu                     | --
+  to bring                | wata                       | --
+  to take                 | wa-waee                    | --
+  night-mare              | loatch                     | --
+  to give                 | kiang                      | --
+  give me                 | kita                       | --
+  you are giving          | kowa-kiang                 | --
+
+
+
+
+                         APPENDIX C. (p. 399.)
+
+    FORM IN SPANISH OF THE AGREEMENT ENTERED INTO IN DUPLICATE,
+    CHINESE AND SPANISH, AND SIGNED BY EACH CHINESE EMIGRANT BEFORE
+    LEAVING MACAO.
+
+
+  Nombre__________  Provincia__________
+
+  Edad__________ Profesion__________
+
+  DIGO YO__________    natural__________
+
+en China, de edad de _____ anos, que he convenido con Dn. F. VELEZ lo que
+se espresa en las clausulas siguientes:
+
+1^a. Quedo comprometido desde ahora a embarcarme para la HABANA en la Isla
+de Cuba en el buque que me senale dicho Senor.
+
+2^a. Quedo igualmente comprometido y sugeto por el termino de ocho anos a
+trabajar en dicho pais de la Isla de Cuba a las ordenes de la SOCIEDAD LA
+COLONIZADORA o a las de la persona a quien traspasare este Contrato para
+lo cual la faculto, en todas las tareas alli acostumbradas, en el campo,
+en las poblaciones, o en donde quiera que me destinen, sea en casas
+particulares, establecimientos de cualquiera clase de industria y artes, o
+bien en ingenios, vegas, cafetales, sitios, potreros, estancias y cuanto
+concierne a las labores urbanas y rurales sea de la especie que fueren.
+
+3^a. Los ocho anos de compromiso que dejo contraidos en los terminos
+espresados en la clausula anterior, principiaran a contarse desde el
+octavo dia siguiente al de mi llegada al puerto citado de la HABANA,
+siempre que yo llegare en buena salud, y desde el octavo dia siguiente al
+de mi salida del hospital o enfermeria, caso de llegar enfermo o incapaz
+de trabajar al tiempo de mi desembarco.
+
+4^a. Las horas en que he de trabajar dependeran de la clase de trabajo que
+se me de, y segun las atencinoes que dicho trabajo requiera, lo cual queda
+al arbitrio del patrono a cuyas ordenes se me ponga, siempre que se me den
+mis horas seguidas de descanso cada 24 horas, y el tiempo preciso a demas
+para la comida y almuerzo, con arreglo a lo que en estas necesidades
+inviertan los de mas trabajadores asalariados en aquel pais.
+
+5^a. Ademas de las horas de descanso, en los dias de trabajo, no podra
+hacerseme desempenar en los Domingos mas lavores que las denecesidad
+practicadas en tales dias segun la indole de los que haceres en que me
+ocupen.
+
+6^a. Me sugeto igualmente al orden y disciplina que se observe en el
+establecimiento, taller, finca o casa particular adonde se me destine, y
+me someto al sistema de coreccion que en los mismos se impone por faltas
+de aplicacion y constancia en el trabajo, de obediencia a las ordenes de
+los patronos o de sus representantes, y por todas aquellas, cuja gravedad
+no haga precisa la intervencion de las leyes.
+
+7^a. Por ninguna razon o por ningun pretesto podre, durante los ocho anos
+por los cuales quedo comprometido en este Contrato, negar mis servicios al
+patron que me tome, ni a evadirme de su poder, ni a intentarlo siquiera
+por ninguna causa, ni mediante ninguna indemnizacion, y para significar
+mas mi voluntad de permanecer bajo su autoridad en los limites que en este
+Contrato le doy, renuncio desde ahora el derecho de rescision de Contrato
+que otorgan a los colonos los Articulos 27 y 28 de las Ordenanzas sobre
+colonizacion promulgadas por S. M. la Reina DA. YSABEL 2^a. en 22 de Marzo
+de 1854, y el que pudieran otorgarle cualquiera otra ley o disposiciones
+que en lo sucesivo se publicasen.
+
+8^a. En cuanto a casos de enfermedad convengo y estipulo, que si esta
+escede de una semana se me suspenda el salario, y que este no vuelva a
+correrme hasta mi restablecimiento o lo que es igual, hasta que mi salud
+permita ocuparme en el servicio de mi patrono, no obstante el tenor de los
+Articulos 43, 44 y 45 del Reglamento citado, pues tambien renuncio al
+derecho que pudiesen otorgarme para ninguna otra ecsigencia que solo a
+fuerza de tramites costosos y largos pudiera llegar a justificarse o a ser
+reprovada.
+
+Dn. F. VELEZ se obliga poa su parte para conmigo:
+
+1^a. Aque desde el dia en que principien a contarse los ocho anos de mi
+compromiso, principie tambien a correrme el salario de cuatro pesos al
+mes.
+
+2^a. Aque se me suministre de alimento cada dia ocho onzas de carne salada
+y dos y media libras de boniatas o de otras viandas sanas y alimenticias.
+
+3^a. Aque durante mis enfermedades se me proporcione en la enfermeria la
+asistencia que mis males reclamen con los ausilios, medicinas y
+facultativo que mis dolencias y conservacion ecsijan fuere por el tiempo
+que fueren.
+
+4^a. Aque se me den dos mudas de ropa, una camisa de lana y una frazada
+anuales.
+
+5^a. Sera de cuenta del mismo Senor y por la de quien corresponda mi
+pasage hasta la HABANA y mi manutencion a bordo.
+
+6^a. El mismo Senor me adelantara la cantidad de ocho pesos fuertes para
+mi abilitation al viage que voi a emprender.
+
+7^a. Tambien me dara cuatro mudas de ropa, colcha y de mas avios
+necesarios, cujo importe de pesos 4 con los de la clausula anterior hacen
+la suma de pesos doce, la misma que satisfare en la HABANA a la orden de
+la SOCIEDAD LA COLONIZADORA con un peso al mes que se descontara de mi
+salario por la persona a quien fuere traspasado este Contrato,
+entendiendose que por ningun otro concepto podra hacerseme descuento
+alguno.
+
+DECLARO haber recibido en efectivo y en ropa segun se espresa en la ultima
+clausula la suma de pesos doce mencionados que reintegrare en la HABANA en
+la forma establecida en dicha clausula.
+
+DECLARO tambien que me conformo con el salario estipulado, aunque se y me
+consta es mucho mayor el que ganan los jornaleros libres y los esclavos en
+la Isla da Cuba, porque esta diferencia la juzgo compensada con las otras
+ventajas que ha de proporcionarme mi patrono, y las que aparecen en este
+Contrato.
+
+Y en fe de que cumpliremos mutuamente lo que queda pactado en este
+documento firmamos dos de un tenor y para un solo efecto ambos
+contratantes en ______ a _____ de 18__.
+
+                                   POR LA SOCIEDAD LA COLONIZADORA.
+
+
+                      TRANSLATION OF THE FOREGOING.
+
+  Name________________________   Province__________________
+
+  Age___ Business or occupation____________________
+
+I, the under-signed____________ born at__________ in China ____years old,
+have entered into an agreement with Don F. Velez, upon the following
+conditions, viz.--
+
+1. I engage from the date hereof to embark for the Havannah in the island
+of Cuba in whatever ship the before-mentioned gentleman may appoint.
+
+2. I further promise and engage during the space of eight years to work in
+the said country of Cuba under the orders and regulations of the
+Colonization Society, or of the person to whom the present agreement may
+be assigned, and to perform all necessary agricultural labour in the
+settlement, or wheresoever I may be ordered so to do, whether in a private
+house or in any description of industrial enterprise, or in factories, in
+plantations, in coffee-gardens, at country-seats, or on pasturage grounds,
+and generally all manner of labour, whether in town or country, of what
+description soever it may consist.
+
+3. The eight years during which I bind myself to labour under the
+conditions specified in the last preceding paragraph shall be held to
+commence eight days after my disembarkation in the aforesaid harbour of
+the Havannah, it being always understood that I have been landed in good
+health, or else shall commence on the eighth day after my discharge from
+hospital, in the event of my having landed in ill health or incapable of
+working.
+
+4. The hours during which I bind myself to labour shall depend upon the
+nature of the work which I shall be required to perform, and the degree of
+special attention which such work may require, or may be determined on his
+own responsibility by the master under whose orders I may be placed,
+provided always that I am permitted to enjoy certain hours of repose
+during every 24 hours, and certain fixed periods for breakfast and dinner,
+similar to those assigned to other paid labourers in that country.
+
+5. Besides my hours of rest and recreation during work days, I shall not
+be bound to do any work upon Sundays, beyond such necessary labour as may
+seem to be requisite in the opinion of my employer or employers.
+
+6. I also bind myself to submit to the orders and discipline which may be
+in force in the house of business, farm, or private house in which I am
+employed, and further agree that I shall be amenable to such _system of
+punishment_ as may be in force in such localities for the correction of
+indolence, absence from work, disobedience to the orders of any employers
+or their agents, as also for all such minor offences as may not call for
+the intervention of the law.
+
+7. On no account whatever, and under no circumstances, shall it be lawful
+for me during the aforesaid period of eight years for which I hereby bind
+myself, to absent myself from my employer's service, or to withdraw or
+escape from his authority, or under any circumstance or under any
+provocation to complain against him, and in order to render more binding
+upon me this declaration of my voluntary obedience to all these
+provisions, I _renounce_ from the date of the present subscription the
+right to rescind the provisions of this contract secured to emigrants by
+articles 27 and 28 of the ordinances on colonization promulgated by H. M.
+Queen Isabella II., 22 March, 1854, as also any similar rights that may be
+secured to emigrants by any laws or official documents published or to be
+published in reference thereto.
+
+8. In case of sickness or infirmity I agree and declare that I fully
+consent that if such illness shall exceed one week in duration, my wages
+shall be stopped, and shall remain suspended until my recovery, or, which
+is the same thing, until such time as my health permits me to re-enter the
+service of my employer, without having recourse to the articles 43, 44,
+and 45 of the aforesaid regulations, my rights under which I forego by the
+last preceding paragraph, and do again _renounce_.
+
+Don F. Velez for his part engages with me:--
+
+1. That from the day on which my said term of eight years' service begins,
+my wages shall be paid at the rate of four Spanish piastres monthly.
+
+2. That there shall be provided me daily eight ounces of salt meat and two
+and a half pounds Boniatas (_Jatropha Manihot_), or other equally good and
+nutritious food.
+
+3. That in the event of illness I shall be provided in the hospital with
+such things as my case may require, and in particular with all medicines,
+&c., necessary to restore me to health, so long as my illness may last.
+
+4. That I shall be supplied annually with two pairs of trowsers, one
+woollen shirt, and one woollen coat.
+
+5. That my passage to the Havannah and maintenance while on board shall
+be defrayed at the expense of my employer or his agent or representative.
+
+6. That my employer shall further pay me eight dollars in order to enable
+me to provide necessaries for the said voyage; and further,
+
+7. That he shall provide me with four pairs of trowsers and a coverlet,
+the same not to exceed four dollars, making with the preceding the sum of
+12 dollars, which 12 dollars I bind myself to repay to the order of the
+Colonization Society, by means of a monthly instalment of one dollar paid
+by the person with whom my labour shall be contracted for, but upon the
+further condition that no other deduction whatever shall be made from my
+said monthly pay.
+
+I hereby declare that, in conformity with the preceding paragraph, I have
+received by way of cash advance and in clothing the equivalent of the said
+12 dollars, which, as already stipulated, shall be repaid by me at the
+Havannah.
+
+I also declare that I am perfectly satisfied with the aforesaid payment,
+although I am aware, and it is well known, that the free labourers, as
+also the negro slaves, in the island of Cuba, are paid a much larger wage.
+But I consider myself recompensed for this difference by the other
+advantages which my employer binds himself to secure to me, and which are
+set forth in the present contract. And in witness that we on either side
+engage that the provisions hereof shall be duly and faithfully carried
+out, we subscribe on that behalf two copies of similar purport this ____
+day of ____ 18__.
+
+                                  For the Colonization Society, __________
+
+                                         Signature of emigrant, __________
+
+
+
+
+                     APPENDIX D. (pp. 539-548).
+
+    DESCRIPTION OF THE TYPHOON ENCOUNTERED IN THE CHINESE SEAS, BY
+    H.I.R.M.'s FRIGATE NOVARA, ON THE 18TH AND 19TH AUGUST, 1858.
+
+
+The path of the typhoon has been deduced from comparison with the readings
+of the barometer, with which it corresponds pretty accurately, if due
+allowance be made for the fact, that in determining it the various
+directions in which the line of centres runs must be calculated on the
+supposition that the orbit of the cyclone is circular, which it is not in
+reality, since at any considerable distance from the centre it must be
+elliptical. Hence it is apparent that the rate of velocity of the cyclone
+in advancing along its path follows no fixed law, whereas some such
+regularity undoubtedly exists among the masses of air encountered by the
+cyclone. Hence too the errors thus made in specifying the direction of the
+wind become of considerable importance in this connection, more especially
+in the event of the place of observation being at any distance from the
+centre, or that the path of the cyclone forms a sharp angle when wheeling
+round. Moreover, as actually experienced, the path of the typhoon would
+lie more near the line of the points of observation than a sketch founded
+upon such observations would indicate, and than a general comparison of
+the paths of cyclones founded upon the theory of their gyratory motion
+would substantiate, except in those cases where the observer has been
+directly in the path of the cyclone.
+
+In our case the absolute distances, as specified in the annexed table (see
+p. 490) of fifteen different stations taken during the three days during
+which the cyclone and its premonitory and subsequent symptoms lasted, are
+only assumed, because simultaneous observations of the varying directions
+of the wind could not be taken at various points of the course of the
+cyclone, and in so far may be inaccurate, although the relative distances
+might possibly be tolerably correct.
+
+The observations as to the direction of the wind at noon of the 18th
+August and at the ensuing midnight, give results contradictory to the
+theory, since the wind in both cases is almost the same as would at
+midnight of the 19th indicate a central point, falling actually behind
+that portion of the path of the line of centres already traversed on the
+18th. Upon this showing the direction of the wind at 6 P.M. of the 18th
+may be assumed as that of the centre of the cyclone. In fact, the path of
+the cyclone at this point lay parallel with the course the ship was
+holding, whence only trifling variations would be observable in the
+direction of the wind at those periods. Besides, the cyclone was at that
+time approaching the vertex of its orbit, in doing which it encountered
+the large and tolerably lofty island of Okinawa-Sima of the Loo-Choo
+group, which must have resulted in a certain expenditure of the force
+causing the gyratory movement of the cyclone. In analyzing the path of the
+cyclone, account must also be taken of the winds that prevailed from the
+17th August up to midnight, although these are to be considered, with
+respect to the cyclone proper, only in so far as they were winds that had
+been altered in direction at the origin of the typhoon in conformity with
+the laws of cyclones, which by no means imply in all cases a perfect
+gyration. However, as these winds are varied in direction by the same
+causes which are in full activity in the case of the cyclones, such
+variations must follow the same laws, and the lines of centres which
+present themselves with reference to these as parts of a circular orbit,
+naturally lie in the same direction as that of the cyclone at its origin.
+
+As early as the 13th August a marked alteration in the temperature of the
+air had been perceptible at Shanghai; the thermometer fell from between
+86 deg. and 95 deg. Fahr. to between 73 deg.4 and 78 deg.8 Fahr.: easterly breezes set
+in, and the barometer rose in a remarkable manner for that latitude and
+season. On the 17th the weather was still fine, but the sun set red and
+fiery behind a dense mass of clouds.
+
+The morning of the 18th broke with continued fine weather; but cumulous
+clouds were massed on the sky, and looked black and threatening to the
+N.E. By 8 A.M. the wind and sea had both risen materially. By 3 P.M. the
+roll of the sea was from N. by E., the sky became still more cloudy, and
+the clouds began to descend; banks of clouds in the direction of the
+central point. At midnight between the 18th and 19th altered course to W.
+by S., in order to run out of the cyclone by reaching its southern edge.
+
+On the 19th at 8 A.M. a heavy sea from the northward, the sky a dense mass
+of clouds with very limited horizon; the whole aspect of the heavens a
+grey misty wrack of clouds, gradually falling lower and lower,--only in
+the direction of the central point was there visible a gloomy,
+leaden-coloured segment of clear horizon. From 4 P.M. to 8 P.M. the clouds
+completely enveloped us, so that it was barely possible to descry an
+object a cable's length from the ship; constant gusts of wind with fine
+rain or sea-spray; very heavy sea from the west, but the waves fairly
+decapitated by the wind as fast as they rose. By 11 P.M. a few dark clouds
+became visible in the S.S.E., and the horizon began to widen again.
+
+20th. The sky still covered; in the west, white parallel bands of clouds,
+forming segments of circles: the masts and rigging covered with a crust of
+evaporated salt.
+
+                         17th August.
+
+  Hours        Mean                Direction            Strength
+  from         pressure            of wind.             of wind
+  midnight     of                                       0 to 10.
+  to           atmosphere.
+  midnight.
+
+    1           29.908             S.E. 3/4 E.          3.5
+    2             .912             S.E. by E. 1/4 E.    3.5
+    3             .915             S.E. by E. 1/4 E.    3.5
+    4             .917             S.E. by E. 1/2 E.    2.5
+    5             .914             S.E. by E. 1/4 E.    2.5
+    6             .913             E.S.E.               2.5
+    7             .909             S.E. by E. 3/4 E.    2.5
+    8             .899             E.S.E.               3.
+    9             .886             S.E. by E. 1/2 E.    3.
+   10             .878             E. by S. 1/4 S.      3.
+   11             .869             E. 3/4 S.            3.
+   12M.           .860             E. 1/4 S.            3.
+    1             .852             E. 1/2 S.            3.5
+    2             .853             E. 1/2 S.            3.5
+    3             .848             E.                   3.2
+    4             .834             E. 1/2 N.            4.
+    5             .817             E.N.E.               4.
+    6           29.808             E.N.E.               4.
+    7             .810             N.E. by E. 1/4 E.    4.
+    8             .812             N.E. by E. 1/4 E.    3.5
+    9             .812             N.E. by E.           3.5
+   10             .806             N.E. by E. 1/2 E.    3.5
+   11             .795             E.N.E.               3.5
+   12             .784             E.N.E.               3.5
+
+                       18th August.
+
+    1           29.779             E. by N.             3.5
+    2             .771             E. by N.             3.2
+    3             .762             E. by N.             3.2
+    4             .758             E. by N.             3.2
+    5             .751             E. by N.             3.5
+    6             .740             N.E. by E. 1/2 E.    3.5
+    7             .721             N.E. by E.           4.
+    8             .696             N.E. by E.           4.5
+    9           29.666             N.E. by E.           5.
+   10             .640             N.E.                 5.2
+   11             .612             N.E. 1/2 N.          5.7
+   12M.           .581             N.E. by N.           6.5
+    1             .548             N.E. by N. 1/2 N.    5.
+    2             .526             N.E. by N.           6.5
+    3             .50              N.                   7.5
+    4             .482             N. by E.             7.
+    5             .459             N.E. by N.           7.5
+    6             .435             N.E. by N.           8.
+    7             .421             N.E. by N.           8.
+    8             .411             N.E. by N.           8.
+    9             .408             N.E. by N.           8.
+   10             .405             N.E. 3/4 N.          8.5
+   11             .401             N.E. 1/2 N.          8.7
+   12             .375             N.E. 1/2 N.          8.7
+
+                        19th August.
+
+    1           29.306             N.E. by N.           5.7
+    2             .319             N. by E.             8.
+    3             .335             N. by E.             7.
+    4             .351             N.                   7.5
+    5             .364             N. 1/2 E.            7.2
+    6             .376             N.                   7.2
+    7             .383             N. by W.             6.5
+    8             .376             N. by W. 1/2 W.      7.2
+    9             .361             N.N.W.               7.7
+   10             .347             N.N.W.               8.
+   11           29.324             N.W.                 8.
+   12M.           .295             N.W.                 8.
+    1             .268             N.W. 1/2 W.          7.7
+    2             .252             N.W. by W.           7.5
+    3             .238             N.W. by W.           7.7
+    4             .223             N.W. by W. 1/2 W.    7.7
+    5             .220             W. by N. 1/2 N.      8.
+    6             .221             W. by N. 1/2 N.      8.
+    7             .225             W. by N. 1/2 N.      8.
+    8             .229             W. by N.             8.5
+    9             .233             W.                   8.5
+   10             .243             W.                   8.5
+   11             .256             W.                   8.5
+   12             .282             W. by S.             9.
+
+                     20th August to noon.
+
+    1           29.351             W. by S. 1/2 S.      9.
+    2             .363             W. by S.             9.
+    3             .375             W. by S.             9.
+    4             .413             W. by S.             9.
+    5             .437             W.S.W.               7.5
+    6             .457             S.W. by W.           7.
+    7             .457             S.W. 1/2 W.          6.
+    8             .471             S.W.                 6.
+    9             .489             S.W. 1/2 S.          6.5
+   10             .505             S.W. 1/2 S.          6.5
+   11             .512             S.W. 1/2 S.          6.5
+   12M.           .515             S.W. 1/2 S.          6.5
+
+The barometric readings are corrected to the freezing-point density of the
+atmosphere, as also to the level of the ocean, and are further reduced by
+comparison with the Standard Barometer at the New Observatory. They are
+also relieved of a source of error arising from the regular decline for
+each day of the barometer, as evidenced by the observations made during
+June and July, 1858, in mean latitude 23 deg. 52' N., mean longitude 119 deg. 12'
+E. This downward tendency will be apparent from the following readings for
+each hour:--for 1h. (A.M.) - 0.004, 2h. - 0.005, 3h. - 0.0012, 4h. -0.015,
+5h. - 0.012, 6h. - 0.006, 7h. - 0.02, 8h. - 0.012, 9h. - 0.021, 10h.
+-0.02, 11h. - 0.018, noon - 0.015, 1h. - 0.008, 2h. - 0.007, 3h. -0.021,
+4h. - 0.025, 5h. - 0.023, 6h. - 0.015, 7h. - 0.008, 8h. - 0.001, 9h.
+-0.008, 10h. - 0.014, 11h. - 0.015, 12h. (midnight) - 0.011. These
+quantities are to be read as implying that when added to or deducted from
+those supplied by actual observations, they result in the quantities
+already assigned as the corrected averages for the day. The direction as
+well as strength of the wind are copied from the averages as calculated by
+the Commodore from the ship's log, the meteorological journals and the
+daily postings made by the Commodore himself.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+According to the delineation of the path of the cyclone, as prepared from
+the observations recorded, the following table, already referred to, gives
+the approximative distance of the ship at stated points from such central
+path, as compared with that deduced from barometrical observations,
+allowing for the differences already mentioned. In the case of the
+wind-pressure, the average is deduced from the mean of successive
+observations taken every hour, and for the most part divided into
+intervals of three hours each.
+
+                               Distance.   Air-     Difference.  Distance
+                                         pressure.               according
+                                                                 to curve.
+
+   1   17th August  4 A.M.       336     29.915 in.               336
+   2   "    "       noon.        297       .860       0.055       300
+   3   18th "       midnight.    265       .783        .132       257
+   4   "    "       6 A.M.       230       .736        .178       233
+   5   "    "       9 A.M.       205       .667        .248       205
+   6   "    "       6 P.M.       153       .438        .477       153
+   7   19th "       3 A.M.       140       .335        .580       138
+   8   "    "       5 A.M.       148       .364        .551       142
+   9   "    "       8 A.M.       146       .373        .542       143
+  10   "    "       noon.        125       .296        .619       130
+  11   "    "       3 P.M.       123       .238        .677       122
+  12   "    "       6 P.M.       134       .222        .693       138
+  13   "    "       9 P.M.       148       .235        .680       144
+  14   20th "       midnight.    183       .296        .619       183
+  15   "    "       6 A.M.       313       .450        .465       313
+
+The minimum pressure according to the curve would be 28.975, but must
+actually have been less. According to the strict reading it would result
+that all radii before reaching the point where nearest the central path,
+as also all those in the same half-circle after such central line has been
+crossed, should have the same value, whatever the direction, which if
+rigidly asserted cannot be correct, since the motion of a cyclone is truly
+circular only in the immediate vicinity of its central point. As that
+point is receded from, the motion becomes more or less elliptical, as is
+attested by the barometric differences, which had the cyclone been a true
+circle in all its parts ought to be similar for similar distances. This it
+is admitted is not the case, as the barometric pressure shows a marked
+decline in the earlier part of a cyclone the more rapidly the central line
+is approached, just as it rises again once that line has been passed.
+
+For this reason the distances as assigned upon a line of curves deduced
+from the foregoing observations must be too great, especially those which
+are calculated at right angles to the path of the typhoon, because
+perpendiculars drawn at right angles to the varying directions of the wind
+must intersect each other at points more distant than the actual central
+point of the cyclone itself.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+To the foregoing may be appended a few extracts recounting the damage done
+by the great typhoon of 27th July, 1862, from which some idea may be
+formed of the tremendous violence and destructive effects of this
+description of atmospheric agency.
+
+_From London and China Telegraph, 29th Sept., 1862._
+
+"A dreadful typhoon occurred at Canton on 27th July, 1862. The destruction
+of life and property is immense, the loss of life in the city and
+neighbourhood being estimated at about forty thousand. In the telegram
+which was received a few days ago announcing this event, a query was
+placed, and very reasonably, after the number stated; but the press state
+that as far as inquiries have been made at present it is probably correct.
+The loss of life has chiefly occurred amongst the junk population, and the
+fine new fleet of forty Imperial junks, intended for the Yang-tse-kiang,
+has been destroyed. The water rose till the streets of Honam had three
+feet in them, but the buildings suffered less than might have been
+expected; some two or three hundred feet of the granite wall at Shameen
+was washed away, and blocks of stone were driven about as if they had been
+billets of wood; houses in the city had also been blown down, and trees
+rooted up; the rice crops have suffered severely; and the total damage may
+be estimated in millions of dollars. Mr. Gaillard, an American Missionary,
+was killed by the falling in of his house; and the residences of the Rev.
+Messrs. Bonney and Piercey were thrown down, a large junk having been
+driven up against them. At Whampoa the docks were all flooded, while the
+workshops attached were unroofed and otherwise injured. From the _China
+Mail_, which gives a long and graphic description of this disastrous
+visitation, we extract the following:--'The British brig _Mexicana_
+capsized in Hall and Co.'s dock, and lies on her beam-ends; the British
+ship _Dewa Gungadhur_ is lying on her side in Gow and Co.'s dock; the
+British steamer _Antelope_, in the Chinese dock at the corner of Junk
+River, has her bow run up over the head of the dock, and her stern at an
+angle of thirty degrees into it; the British steamer _Bombay Castle_ was
+washed off the blocks in Couper's wooden dock, and was scuttled by her
+captain to save her from being floated out of the dock; the American ship
+_Washington_ is aground, blocking up the entrance to the Chinese dock in
+Junk River; the American ship _Jacob Bell_ and British barque _Cannata_
+are high on a mud flat, dry at low water--the latter making water, and
+discharging her cargo; the new British steamer _Whampoa_ broke from her
+moorings and went ashore, but has since been got off without injury.
+Several chops sunk, and five of the foreign Customs' inspectors were
+drowned. Many junks went down with all hands. Bamboo-town is entirely
+destroyed, the water having flooded it to the depth of six feet, and swept
+off a great number of its inhabitants. It is greatly to be feared that the
+disasters among the shipping outside will prove something frightful, and
+that many vessels now anxiously expected have either been driven on the
+rocks and gone to pieces or have foundered at sea. Already, it will have
+been observed, one dismasted vessel, the Danish brig _Hercules_, has come
+in; and more may be looked for in the course of the next fortnight. The
+_Iskandershah_ is on shore in the river, close to Tiger Island, a little
+above the Bogue.' One writer says the city looks just as it did after the
+bombardment by Admiral Seymour, and that there has not been such a typhoon
+since 1832.
+
+"The typhoon which visited Canton so severely also committed great ravages
+at the port of Macao. The loss of life was very great. Many junks were
+sunk or driven ashore, and their crews drowned. The _Chilo_, a British
+ship engaged in the rice trade, went ashore, and is a total wreck; and
+another vessel was also reported lost. The wharves have suffered severely,
+and houses were blown down. A letter, dated 28th July, says:--'Yesterday
+morning a very strong typhoon did a great deal of damage here. The new sea
+wall on the Praia Grande stood it well, except in one place; but the old
+one, which has stood so many typhoons before, is now nearly entirely
+broken down; also Messrs. De Mello and Co.'s wharf. Some houses have come
+down, and trees on the Praia and other places have lost nearly all their
+branches. The British barque _Chilo_ got ashore outside, and has parted
+amidships; about 100 piculs copper cash have been saved from her cargo.
+The steamer _Syce_ is ashore in the inner harbour, but without damage. A
+good many junks and boats have capsized or been dismasted, and a great
+many lives lost. The appearance of the Praia Grande after the typhoon was
+really astonishing. We had a very short notice or indication of a typhoon.
+On Saturday night the wind commenced to blow from N.E., but not before
+Sunday morning, about a quarter past four, did the barometer go down, and
+it stood at 8 A.M. at 28.60; thermometer 81. At about 10 A.M. it was
+blowing hardest from S.W., and caused the greatest damage.'"
+
+
+
+
+                               VOL. III.
+
+                         APPENDIX I. (p. 13.)
+
+    _The following reprint (by permission) from the columns of the
+    "Spectator" of 11th Oct. and 25th Oct., 1862, conveys so
+    accurate an idea of the achievements of the gallant and lamented
+    Burke and Wills, and of the mismanagement that led to their
+    disastrous fate, that no apology is needed for inserting it
+    here._
+
+
+            THE AUSTRALIAN EXPLORING EXPEDITION OF 1860.[159]
+
+                 (_Spectator, 11th and 25th Oct., 1862._)
+
+"Those who are interested--and who is not?--in the history of the latest
+and most successful of Australian exploring expeditions will find the
+principal materials requisite for the satisfaction of their curiosity in
+the small volume now before us. The special interest attaching to this
+particular expedition lies in the striking contrast which it presents
+between the perfect success of its leaders and their melancholy end.
+Having accomplished their arduous task of traversing the Australian
+continent from south to north, Messrs. Burke and Wills returned to their
+starting-point, only to find that the depot which they had established
+there had been abandoned by their companions less than twelve hours before
+their arrival. Utterly broken down by privation and fatigue, and
+disappointed of the succour on which they had confidently relied, they
+were unable to traverse the comparatively trifling distance which
+separated them from the settled districts, and, after some weeks of
+hopeless wandering, they were literally starved to death when almost
+within sight of aid. The story of these few weeks, as contained in the
+scanty records left by Messrs. Burke and Wills, and in the statement made
+by their sole surviving companion, is one of the most touching narratives
+of human fortitude that we have ever met with. The feeling of sympathy,
+almost painful in its intensity, which it necessarily excites, is
+immediately followed by a desire to ascertain the precise quarter in
+which the gross neglect which alone could have rendered such a
+catastrophe possible can justly be charged. It is to this point that we
+propose mainly to direct the remarks which we have to make on Mr.
+Jackson's volume; and we shall recapitulate the history of the expedition
+only so far as is absolutely necessary to render our observations
+generally intelligible.
+
+"The exploring party left Melbourne on August 20, 1860. It was accompanied
+by a number of camels, which had been imported for the purpose, on the
+supposition that these animals would be peculiarly fitted to bear the
+privations incidental to such a journey. The party was headed by Mr.
+Robert O'Hara Burke. Mr. Landells, who had charge of the camels, was
+second in command; and the third officer was Mr. William John Wills, who
+also acted as astronomical and meteorological observer to the expedition.
+On September 23 they reached Menindie, on the Darling river, about 400
+miles from Melbourne. Here Mr. Landells, in consequence of some
+disagreement with Mr. Burke, resigned his post; and Dr. Beckler, the
+medical officer to the expedition, declined to go any further. Hereupon
+Burke appointed Wills in Landells' place, and divided his party, leaving
+one section at Menindie, in charge of Beckler, while he, with Wills and
+six others, pushed on, on October 19, for Cooper's Creek, about 400 miles
+further north, under the guidance of one Wright, a man acquainted with the
+country, whom he met with on the spot. On October 31, when about half-way
+between Menindie and Cooper's Creek, Burke appointed Wright third officer,
+and sent him back to the Darling, with instructions to bring up the
+remainder of the party and stores to Cooper's Creek without delay. He then
+pushed on, and reached the Creek on November 11. He remained here about a
+month, and then again divided his party. Three men, six camels, and twelve
+horses were left at the depot on the Creek, under the command of Mr.
+Brahe, whose instructions were to remain till Burke's return, or until he
+was forced to retreat by want of provisions. Burke started on December 16,
+taking with him Wills, King, and Gray, six camels, one horse, and
+provisions for three months, which was the time he expected to be absent;
+but he told Brahe that he might be away four months, or even more. On
+February 11, 1861, he reached a point only a few miles from the shore of
+the Gulf of Carpentaria, and thus accomplished his mission of entirely
+crossing the Australian Continent from south to north. He at once retraced
+his steps, and arrived at the depot in Cooper's Creek on April 21,
+accompanied by Wills and King, Gray having died a few days before. They
+found that Brahe had quitted his post that very morning, and started for
+the Darling, leaving some provisions buried at the foot of a tree, on
+which he had cut an inscription indicating the fact. The exhausted
+explorers debated what they had best do. Wills and King wished to make for
+Menindie; but Burke, thinking that, weak as they were, it was hopeless to
+try to overtake Brahe, decided to push for the nearest settled districts
+of South Australia, distant about 150 miles. This they did on April 23,
+having left a note in Brahe's _cache_, but without adding anything to his
+inscription on the tree, or leaving any distinct intimation that they had
+ever been there. But the enterprise was beyond their strength. They were
+so weak that they could not advance more than five or six miles a day;
+their camels knocked up, their provisions ran short; and, finally, Burke
+died on July 1st, Wills having succumbed a day or two earlier. King, the
+sole survivor, fell in with the natives, who treated him kindly; and he
+was rescued on September 15th by a party sent from Melbourne in search of
+him, under the guidance of Mr. Howitt.
+
+"We must now return to Mr. Wright, and see how he carried out the
+instructions given him by his chief. Mr. Burke, as we have already said,
+sent him back to Menindie on October 31, 1860; and he reached that place
+on November 5. Here, in the teeth of Burke's orders to bring the rest of
+the party on to Cooper's Creek _without delay_, he remained inactive until
+January 26, 1861, when he appears to have moved northward. He never,
+however, got further than Bullo, a place about sixty miles south of
+Cooper's Creek, where Mr. Brahe fell in with him on April 29, and at once
+placed himself under his orders. Two days later Wright left Bullo, and
+moved a few miles further south, "not seeing the utility of pushing on the
+depot to Cooper's Creek for the purpose of remaining there the few weeks
+their stores would last." On May 3, at Brahe's suggestion, Wright and he
+returned to the depot on Cooper's Creek, taking no stores with them. They
+remained there a quarter of an hour, did not examine the _cache_, and
+then, seeing no signs of Burke having been there, rejoined the rest of
+their party, and made their way back to the Darling, whence Brahe at once
+proceeded to Melbourne. On hearing his report, the Exploration Committee
+lost no time in despatching the relief party, under Mr. Howitt, which, as
+we have already said, discovered King in the following September.
+
+"After the foregoing brief summary of the facts of the case, the reader
+will probably have but little difficulty in coming to the conclusion that
+the death of Messrs. Burke and Wills was, in great measure, owing to Mr.
+Wright's having so unaccountably neglected to obey the distinct
+instructions of his chief. Mr. Jackson, indeed, holds that no one but
+Wright was at all to blame in the matter. Nay, he even goes so far as to
+accuse Wright of having wilfully and deliberately left the leaders of the
+expedition to a fate which he must have known would be the natural result
+of his inaction. 'Can any reasonable person,' he asks, 'doubt that Wright
+knew perfectly well the exact nature of his instructions, and foresaw the
+disastrous consequences almost certain to ensue should they be
+disregarded.' This very serious charge is based upon a passage in a
+despatch from Mr. Wright to the Exploration Committee at Melbourne, dated
+Dec. 19th, in which he says:--'As I have every reason to believe that Mr.
+Burke has pushed on from Cooper's Creek, relying upon finding the depot
+stores at that water-course upon his return, there is room for the most
+serious apprehensions as to the safety of himself and party, should he
+find that he has miscalculated.' This passage seems at least to prove that
+Wright had fully comprehended both the meaning and the object of the
+instructions he had received, _to return to Menindie, and bring up the
+stores as rapidly as possible to Cooper's Creek_. In the teeth of these
+positive orders he remained at Menindie no less than eighty-two days, from
+Nov. 5th, 1860, to Jan. 26th, 1861, doing literally nothing at all. There
+was, as far as we can see, nothing to prevent him from reaching Cooper's
+Creek with a portion of the stores before the end of 1860. The distance
+from Menindie to the Creek is about 400 miles, and Mr. Burke had traversed
+it without difficulty in twenty-three days. When Burke left Cooper's Creek
+on December 16th, he was in daily expectation of Wright's arrival. Had
+this reasonable expectation been fulfilled, there would then have been no
+reason why Brahe should not have remained at the depot for six months, or
+even a longer time. Wright appears to have spent a considerable portion of
+the time which he wasted at Menindie in making trips to see his wife and
+family, who were at a station about twenty-one miles off, being troubled
+with fears that they would not get safely and comfortably to Adelaide,
+whither he wished to send them. The explanation by which he subsequently
+endeavoured to account for his delay was anything but satisfactory. In the
+despatch already referred to, dated Dec. 29th, he alleged that he 'delayed
+starting merely because the camels left behind by Mr. Brahe were too few
+in number, and too inferior in carrying powers, to carry out a really
+serviceable quantity of provisions.' When, however, he was examined by the
+Commissioners appointed to inquire into the affair, he stated that he
+remained at Menindie because he was waiting for the confirmation of his
+appointment as third officer. When pressed to reconcile these two
+statements, and reminded that, unless he could do so satisfactorily, he
+'stood in an awkward position before the Commission,' he made no reply.
+When at last he did set out from Menindie, we have seen that he advanced
+no further than Bullo, where he was joined by Brahe on April 29th. In
+explanation of this circumstance, he urges that Burke had left Menindie at
+a favourable season, when water was abundant; while when he started the
+advance of summer had dried up all the water-courses, and the ravages of
+scurvy had reduced the effective strength of his party to an alarming
+extent. This statement is, no doubt, substantially true; but we need
+hardly observe that it rather aggravates than extenuates his offence.
+Since he was well acquainted with the country, and knew that the advance
+of summer would immensely increase the difficulty of traversing it, he is
+all the more inexcusable for not having attempted the journey before the
+hot weather set in. When, after having been joined by Brahe, he paid a
+final visit to Cooper's Creek, the careless manner in which he conducted
+the search almost drives us to the conclusion that he was completely
+indifferent to its result. It was at Brahe's suggestion that he went back
+at all. Then though both he and Brahe were mounted, and were accompanied
+by a spare pack-horse, he did not, although the contingency of finding
+Burke's party was the sole object of his journey, attempt to provide for
+it by taking with him any stores of any kind. On reaching the depot, he
+stayed there only a quarter of an hour, and then, having failed in that
+time to discover any trace of Burke's party, at once turned his back on
+the Creek. It is scarcely possible to imagine how, under such
+circumstances, he could have omitted to examine the _cache_ made by Brahe
+a few days before, in which case he would have discovered that Burke's
+party had returned to the Creek, and would have learnt the direction in
+which they had gone. When questioned on this point by the Commissioners,
+he replied that he had noticed traces of natives about the place, and
+feared that if he disturbed the ground where the stores were hid they
+would see that something was buried there, and would plunder the _cache_.
+He 'had not the presence of mind,' he went on, to add any mark of his own
+to the inscription which Brahe had cut upon the tree. He seems, in fact,
+to have been thoroughly sick of the whole business, and to have thought of
+nothing but getting back to the settled districts with all possible speed.
+
+"We must now inquire what amount of blame can be fairly attached to Mr.
+Brahe, whose departure from Cooper's Creek was the immediate cause of the
+melancholy end of Messrs. Burke and Wills. He appears to have received
+instructions to remain at the Creek until the return of Burke's party, or,
+at any rate, until the failure of his provisions obliged him to retreat.
+Burke fixed three months as the probable duration of his absence; but
+Wills seems to have impressed upon Brahe that it was quite possible they
+might have been away for at least four months. Brahe did actually remain
+there more than four months--from December 16th to April 21st;--but he
+left before he was absolutely compelled to do so. Even supposing him not
+to have overrated the supply of provisions necessary to carry his party
+back to the Darling, he could clearly have remained until he had consumed
+the stores which he left behind him at the Creek. But we must not forget
+that he was placed in a very difficult position. One of his companions was
+dangerously ill, and had for some time beset him with entreaties to return
+to Menindie; and all his party seem to have thought it very doubtful
+whether Burke would return that way at all. In Brahe's diary, on April
+18th, we find the entry, 'There is no probability of Mr. Burke returning
+this way.' Here the observation suggests itself that, had this been his
+real conviction, there was no occasion for him to deprive himself of the
+stores which he left behind him. Mr. Jackson points out that the letter
+left by Brahe in the _cache_ at the Creek did not give a true account of
+the condition of his party. In it Brahe said that they were all quite
+well except one, and that the camels and horses were in good working
+condition. It was this intelligence which induced Burke to decide to make
+a push for South Australia. Had he known that Brahe's party, both men and
+beasts, were really in a weak and exhausted state, as the slowness of
+their rate of progression appears to prove, he would probably have decided
+to follow in their track. Since Brahe was under Wright's command at the
+time of their final return to Cooper's Creek, the lamentable carelessness
+which, as we have already said, was displayed on that occasion, cannot
+fairly be laid to his charge. It is almost impossible for us, with the
+full knowledge of all the circumstances which we now possess, not to allow
+our judgment to be influenced by the fact that, if Brahe had postponed his
+departure for a few hours only, the melancholy catastrophe would not have
+occurred. If, however, we wish to judge him fairly, we must not forget
+that this is a fact of which, at the time of his departure, he was
+necessarily ignorant. On the whole, we are inclined to agree with the
+verdict pronounced in his case by the Commissioners who were appointed to
+inquire into the affair. 'His decision,' they say, 'was most unfortunate;
+but we believe he acted from a conscientious desire to discharge his duty,
+and we are confident that the painful reflection that twenty-four hours'
+further perseverance would have made him the rescuer of the explorers, and
+gained for himself the praise and approbation of all, must be of itself an
+agonizing thought, without the addition of censure he might feel himself
+undeserving of.'
+
+"We have now to inquire into the manner in which Mr. Burke discharged his
+duties as leader of the expedition, with a view of ascertaining whether
+its melancholy termination can, in any degree, be traced to any fault,
+whether of omission or of commission, on his part. If we are willing to
+submit ourselves absolutely to Mr. Jackson's guidance, we may, indeed,
+spare ourselves this trouble; for he asserts most distinctly that Mr.
+Burke invariably did what was best under existing circumstances, and that
+he never neglected any precaution which could tend in any way to bring his
+undertaking to a successful issue. But we must remember that Mr. Jackson
+comes forward as the avowed advocate of Mr. Burke; and, while we are not
+one whit behind him in enthusiastic admiration for the energy and
+self-devotion displayed by his hero, we must not allow our respect for
+these qualities to blind us to any defects which we think we can detect in
+the conduct of the expedition. The report of the Commission, appointed by
+the Victorian Government to inquire into the circumstances connected with
+the death of Burke and Wills, finds fault with Burke on several points,
+which we will proceed to consider in detail. In the first place, it
+pronounces that Burke acted 'most injudiciously' in dividing his party at
+Menindie. We are not sure that we can entirely concur in this verdict. We
+do not see any evidence that Burke intended the depot at Menindie to be a
+permanent one. On the contrary, it seems clear that he intended it to have
+been transferred bodily to Cooper's Creek. On his arrival at Menindie, Dr.
+Beckler's refusal to proceed further placed him in an awkward position. As
+Beckler had no objection to remain at Menindie, Burke resolved to make his
+services available as far as possible, and left him there with a section
+of the party in charge of the heavier stores, while he himself pushed on
+towards Cooper's Creek under the guidance of Mr. Wright. The division of
+the party did not in any way retard or imperil Burke's arrival at Cooper's
+Creek; and he seems to have looked forward to the union of all his forces
+at that place before he proceeded further. As soon as he was convinced
+that Wright was worthy of confidence, he appointed him third officer of
+the expedition, and sent him back to bring the remainder of the party to
+Cooper's Creek without delay, at the same time accepting Beckler's
+resignation, and relieving him from any further charge. We cannot
+therefore see that the division of the party at Menindie was directly
+productive of any evil consequences, nor would any harm have resulted from
+it, but for Wright's flagrant neglect of the instructions of his chief. In
+the next place, the report pronounces that 'it was an error of judgment on
+the part of Mr. Burke to appoint Mr. Wright to an important command in the
+expedition, without a previous personal knowledge of him.' On this point
+we think there is good ground for the censure of the Commission. That
+Burke was, as it were, driven into a corner by the resignation of Landells
+and Beckler is quite true; but it is difficult to imagine that he should
+not have been able (supposing him to possess any insight into character at
+all) to detect, during the time that he and Wright were together, some
+indication of the gross incompetence which the latter subsequently
+displayed. Mr. Jackson endeavours to shift the blame from Mr. Burke's
+shoulders to those of the Exploration Committee, by observing that the
+Committee knew of Wright's appointment by Dec. 3, and so had plenty of
+time, if they had had any objection to him, to replace him by some one
+else. What objection could the Committee possibly have to a man whose name
+they had never heard before that moment? Clearly they are not to blame for
+relying upon the judgment of the leader whom they had selected, and
+confirming his appointment of a man who he assured them 'was well
+qualified for the post, and bore the very highest character.' Whatever
+blame may attach to the selection of Mr. Wright for a post of trust must
+rest entirely upon Mr. Burke. The Commissioners next proceed to blame Mr.
+Burke for finally departing from Cooper's Creek before the arrival of the
+depot party from Menindie, and for undertaking so extended a journey with
+an insufficient supply of provisions. On both these points there is
+something to be said in Mr. Burke's favour. As regards the first, his
+conduct was the natural result of his misplaced confidence in Wright,
+combined with the consideration that the success of his journey depended
+in great measure upon the rapidity with which it was prosecuted. With
+respect to the second, we must remember that on an expedition of this
+kind, when the carrying power is limited, and every ounce of weight has to
+be considered, it is almost as important to exclude everything that is
+superfluous as it is to leave behind nothing that is strictly necessary.
+It seems probable, however, that Mr. Burke was guilty of an error in
+judgment, in underrating the time which the journey from Cooper's Creek to
+Carpentaria was likely to require. Finally, the Commissioners draw
+attention to the fact that it does not appear that Burke kept any regular
+journal, or that he gave written instructions to his officers. 'Had he,'
+they observe on this point--and we fully concur in their
+remark--'performed these essential portions of the duties of a leader,
+many of the calamities of the expedition might have been averted, and
+little or no room would have been left for doubt in judging of the conduct
+of those subordinates, who pleaded unsatisfactory and contradictory verbal
+orders and statements.'
+
+"We are unable, the reader will perceive, to concur in Mr. Jackson's
+repeatedly expressed opinion, that there are no grounds whatever for any
+of the censures which the Commissioners found it their duty to pronounce
+on some points connected with Mr. Burke's management of the expedition.
+The fact is, that after a careful consideration of all the circumstances
+of the case, we incline to the conclusion that Mr. Burke did not possess
+the qualifications necessary for the successful leadership of such an
+enterprise; and that, consequently, some blame must rest with the
+Exploration Committee, who selected a comparatively unfit person for a
+position of such responsibility and importance. We appreciate and admire,
+as enthusiastically as Mr. Jackson himself can possibly do, the courage
+and self-devotion displayed by Mr. Burke; but we cannot forget that
+gallantry and daring are not the only qualities required in the leader of
+an exploring expedition through an unknown and difficult country. The
+choice of the Committee was, we believe, mainly dictated by the
+consideration that Mr. Burke had, while employed in the police-force of
+the colony, shown himself to be possessed of a considerable talent for
+organization, and of no little aptitude for command. They appear not to
+have attached sufficient importance to the not less material fact, that he
+knew nothing of bush-travelling, and had no practical experience of the
+preparations and precautions necessary for the successful prosecution of
+such a journey as that with which he was entrusted. Mr. Jackson calls upon
+us to observe that it was to the _rapidity_ of Mr. Burke's progress that
+his ultimate success is due; and the observation is, to a great extent,
+justified by facts. It appears to us, however, that most, if not all, of
+the errors of judgment of which he was guilty, during the progress of the
+expedition, are directly traceable to the same quality of mind which
+rendered him so prompt in action. The Commissioners hit the blot in his
+character when they pronounced that 'his zeal was greater than his
+prudence.' The examination of his proceedings which we have already made
+affords, we think, ample grounds for this conclusion. We have, however,
+met with one passage in the records of the expedition which exhibits Mr.
+Burke's constitutional hastiness of temper and want of judgment in so
+strong a light, that we cannot refrain from placing it before the reader.
+It occurs in King's narrative of the attempt made by himself, Burke, and
+Wills, to reach the settled districts of South Australia, after they had
+found the depot at Cooper's Creek deserted. Mr. Wills had gone back to the
+depot, and Burke and King were awaiting his return. King proceeds as
+follows:--
+
+"'A few days after Mr. Wills left, some natives came down to the creek to
+fish at some water-holes near our camp. They were civil to us at first,
+and offered us some fish; on the second day they came again to fish, and
+Mr. Burke took down two bags, which they filled for him; on the third day
+they gave us one bag of fish, and afterwards all came to our camp. We used
+to keep our ammunition and other articles in one gunyah, and all three of
+us lived together in another. One of the natives took an oil-cloth out of
+this gunyah; and Mr. Burke, seeing him run away with it, followed him with
+his revolver, and fired over his head, and upon this the native dropped
+the oil-cloth. While he was away, the other blacks invited me away to a
+water-hole to eat fish, but I declined to do so, as Mr. Burke was away,
+and a number of natives were about who would have taken all our things.
+When I refused, one took his boomerang and laid it over my shoulder, and
+then told me by signs that if I called out for Mr. Burke, as I was doing,
+that he would strike me. Upon this, I got them all in front of the gunyah,
+and fired a revolver over their heads; but they did not seem at all
+afraid, until I got out the gun, when they all ran away. Mr. Burke,
+hearing the report, came back, and we saw no more of them until late that
+night, when they came with some cooked fish, and called out, "White
+fellow." Mr. Burke then went out with his revolver, and found a whole
+tribe coming down, all painted, and with fish in small nets carried by two
+men. Mr. Burke went to meet them, and they wished to surround him; but he
+knocked as many of the nets of fish out of their hands as he could, and
+shouted out to me to fire. I did so, and they ran off. We collected about
+five small nets of cooked fish. The reason he would not accept the fish
+from them was, that he was afraid of being too friendly, lest they should
+be always at our camp. We then lived on fish until Mr. Wills returned.'
+
+"This method of dealing with the natives was surely, to say the least of
+it, exceedingly injudicious. They had, it appears, always shown themselves
+friendly to the explorers; and, in the weak state of the party, it was
+little short of madness to run the risk of disturbing the friendly
+relations between them and the blacks by any act of violence. And yet we
+find Mr. Burke actually attacking them, and taking forcibly from them the
+food which they had always shown themselves ready to give; and for no
+better reason than that 'he was afraid of their being too friendly, lest
+they should be always at the camp.' Not many days later Mr. Burke died
+while making a last attempt to rejoin those very natives whom he had
+driven away. It is scarcely possible to avoid the conclusion that Mr.
+Burke's judgment must have been materially weakened by the sufferings and
+privations he had undergone, before he could possibly have acted in so
+utterly unaccountable a manner.
+
+"We must now say a few words as to the route taken by Mr. Burke on his
+journey from Cooper's Creek to Carpentaria, and the nature of the country
+through which he passed. His first idea after reaching the Creek was to
+proceed due north, and four tentative expeditions were made in that
+direction, one of which was pushed to a distance of ninety miles. Finding,
+however, that the ground was too rough, either for horses or camels, he
+finally resolved to proceed in a north-westerly direction as far as Eyre's
+Creek, and at that point turned northward, and crossed the continent by a
+route which lies mainly on or about the 140th meridian of east longitude.
+The country does not appear to be difficult to traverse; and Mr. Wills
+tells us that the worst travelling-ground they met with was between Bullo
+and Cooper's Creek. As regards the nature of the land, Mr. Burke briefly
+sums it up in the following words: 'There is some good country between
+this (Cooper's Creek) and the Stony Desert. From thence to the tropics the
+country is dry and stony. Between the tropics and Carpentaria a
+considerable portion is rangy, but is well watered and richly grassed.'
+Mr. Wills reports that 'as to pasture, it is only the actually stony
+ground that is bare, and many a sheep-run is, in fact, worse grazing than
+that.' As regards the supply of water, it appears that the expedition,
+except when actually crossing the desert, never passed a day in which they
+did not traverse the banks of, or cross, a creek or other water-course.
+The whole country appears, in short, to be admirably adapted for pastoral
+purposes, and its discovery cannot but add largely to the resources of the
+Australian colonies. Sir Henry Barkly, the Governor of Victoria, in a
+despatch to the Duke of Newcastle, states that the occupation of "Burke's
+Land" with stock is already seriously contemplated by the squatters, and
+that there seems little reason to doubt that in the course of a few years
+the journey from Melbourne to Carpentaria will be performed with
+comparative facility by passing from station to station. He adds that
+much of the country traversed by the expedition between the Darling and
+Cooper's Creek is already taken up, so that both sheep and cattle are now
+depastured within 25 miles of Bullo, stretching thence easterly along the
+Queensland boundary in an almost unbroken chain. These anticipations are
+fully confirmed by the report of Mr. Landsborough, the Queensland
+explorer. This gentleman, who has crossed the continent from Carpentaria
+to Melbourne, gives the most favourable account of the pastoral
+capabilities of the country which he traversed, and does not hesitate to
+express an opinion that within twelve months the whole of it will be taken
+up by settlers. We need not therefore hesitate to conclude, with Sir Henry
+Barkly, that 'the results attained by the expedition are of the very
+highest importance, both to geographical science and to the progress of
+civilization in Australia.'"
+
+
+
+
+                       APPENDIX II. (p. 131.)
+
+    _The following pathetic address, recently transmitted by H.E.
+    Sir George Grey to the Duke of Newcastle, H. M. Secretary of
+    State for the Colonies, for presentation to Her Majesty under
+    her recent bereavement, also attests the deeply poetic vein that
+    marks the Maori character._
+
+
+Oh Victoria, our Mother!--We greet you! You, who are all that now remains
+to recall to our recollection Albert, the Prince Consort, who can never
+again be gazed upon by the people.
+
+We, your Maori children, are now sighing in sorrow together with you, even
+with a sorrow like to yours. All we can now do is to weep together with
+you. Oh, our good mother, who hast nourished us, your ignorant children of
+this island, even to this day!
+
+We have just heard the crash of the huge-headed forest tree which has
+untimely fallen, ere it had attained its full growth of greatness.
+
+Oh, good lady, pray look with favour on our love. Although we may have
+been perverse children, we have ever loved you.
+
+This is our lament.
+
+    Great is the pain which preys on me for the loss of my beloved.
+    Ah, you will now lie buried among the other departed kings.
+    They will leave you with the other departed heroes of the land.
+    With the dead of the tribes of the multitude of 'Ti Mani.
+    Go fearless then, O Pango, my beloved, in the path of death; for no
+        evil slanders can follow you.
+    Oh my very heart! Thou didst shelter me from the sorrows and
+        ills of life.
+    Oh my pet bird, whose sweet voice welcomed my glad guests!
+    Oh my noble pet bird, caught in the forests of Rapaura!
+    Let, then, the body of my beloved be covered with royal purple robes!
+    Let it be covered with all-rare robes!
+    The great Rewa, my beloved, shall himself bind these round thee.
+    And my ear-ring of precious jasper shall be hung in thy ear.
+    For, oh! my most precious jewel, thou art now lost to me.
+    Yes, thou, the pillar that didst support my palace, hast been borne to
+        the skies.
+    Oh, my beloved! you used to stand in the very prow of the war-canoe,
+    inciting all others to noble deeds. Yes, in thy life-time thou wast
+        great.
+    And now thou hast departed to the place where even all the mighty must
+        at last go.
+    Where, O physicians, was the power of your remedies?
+    What, O priests, availed your prayers!
+    For I have lost my love; no more can he re-visit this world.
+
+
+
+
+                       APPENDIX III. (p. 172.)
+
+    COPY OF OFFICIAL LETTERS OF H.E. COL. SIR T. GORE BROWN,
+    GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND TO COMMODORE VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,
+    COMMANDER OF THE NOVARA EXPEDITION.
+
+
+                                  I.
+
+        _Government House, Auckland, New Zealand, January 4th, 1859._
+
+Sir,
+
+I do myself the honour to express to you the gratification which the visit
+of His Imperial Majesty's frigate _Novara_ has afforded to the inhabitants
+of Auckland and to myself.
+
+I beg also to convey to you and to the officers of the scientific
+department of your Expedition my best thanks for the valuable information
+supplied by the investigations of these gentlemen.
+
+It will be my agreeable duty to report to her Majesty's Government on the
+subject, and I am satisfied that her Majesty will receive the
+communication with pleasure, and will recognize the importance of the
+services rendered to one of her Dependencies.
+
+Wishing you a prosperous voyage, and success in the interesting objects of
+your pursuit, I beg to subscribe myself,
+
+                         Your faithful servant,
+
+                            THOMAS GORE BROWN, Col. H.M.S.,
+                                 Governor of New Zealand.
+
+
+                                 II.
+
+       _Government House, Auckland, New Zealand, January 5th, 1859._
+
+Sir,
+
+Having already endeavoured to express my thanks to yourself and the
+officers of the scientific department of your Expedition for the valuable
+aid afforded to the Colony, I now venture to ask you to confer a still
+greater favour, by giving permission to Dr. Hochstetter to extend his
+researches for a few months longer.
+
+In the event of your granting this permission, the means necessary to
+enable him to explore effectually will be provided at the expense of the
+Colony of New Zealand.
+
+I feel less diffidence in making this request to you, as Representative of
+the Imperial Government, because Dr. Hochstetter's labours in this Colony
+may be made the means of furthering the objects, which his Imperial
+Majesty the Emperor of Austria had in view, when he despatched the
+Expedition under your command.
+
+I beg to add, that, should you feel it compatible with your duty to accede
+to the application I have now the honour to make, every assistance shall
+be afforded to Dr. Hochstetter, whilst engaged in this Colony, to enable
+him to make his scientific researches as valuable as possible to the
+Expedition of which he will remain a member, and care shall be taken to
+facilitate his return to Europe at the expense of this Colony by such
+route as he shall prefer.
+
+                          I have the honour to be, Sir,
+
+                              Your most faithful servant,
+                               Thomas Gore Brown, Col. H.M.S.,
+                                   Governor of New Zealand.
+
+
+
+
+                       APPENDIX IV. (p. 172.)
+
+            REPLY OF COMMODORE B. V. WULLERSTORF-URBAIR.
+
+
+                     _On Board H.I.R.M. Frigate Novara, Auckland Harbour,
+                                                       January 5th, 1859._
+
+Sir,
+
+In reply to your official note, dated Government House, Auckland, January
+5th, a. c. in which, as the Representative of the Imperial Government, you
+prefer the request, that I would give Dr. Hochstetter permission to extend
+his geological researches in this Colony for a few months longer, I am
+most happy to accede to your application, and to give Dr. Hochstetter, in
+his capacity as geologist of the Imperial Expedition, leave for that
+purpose, under the following conditions, which are nearly the same as
+those stated in your kind note:----
+
+1. That Dr. Hochstetter's sojourn in New Zealand may not exceed six
+months, and thus enable him to return to Europe nearly at the same period
+as the I.R. frigate is most likely to arrive there, namely, in November or
+December next.
+
+2. That the _Novara_ Expedition, of which Dr. Hochstetter still remains a
+member, may likewise enjoy the benefit of the observations, collections,
+and publications made by Dr. Hochstetter during his stay in New Zealand.
+
+3. That the means necessary to enable Dr. Hochstetter to explore the
+country effectually shall be provided at the expense of the Government of
+New Zealand; that every assistance shall be afforded to this gentleman
+whilst engaged in these geological explorations, and that care shall be
+taken to facilitate his return to Europe (viz. Trieste), at the expense of
+the Government of New Zealand, by such route as he shall prefer.
+
+Upon this understanding I shall not only consider it compatible with my
+duty to accede to your Excellency's application, and give Dr. Hochstetter
+permission to remain for the time stated in the Province of Auckland, but
+shall also feel quite certain, that the Imperial Austrian Government, as
+well as the Academy of Sciences whose delegate Dr. Hochstetter must be
+considered, will be highly gratified to learn that it was in the power of
+the first Austrian Exploring Expedition to become serviceable to a nation
+which has done so much for the advancement of science and the development
+of natural resources in almost all parts of the world.
+
+With hope that the friendly arrangement thus entered into on this subject
+may create a lasting bond of union and communications between the
+scientific men of both countries,
+
+                                           I have the honour to subscribe,
+
+                                              Your faithful servant,
+
+                                                B. V. WULLERSTORF.
+
+
+
+
+                         APPENDIX V. (p. 188.)
+
+      ADDRESS OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND, NEW
+                ZEALAND, TO THE GEOLOGIST OF THE NOVARA.
+
+
+Dr. Hochstetter,
+
+On the conclusion of your Geological Examination of a large and most
+interesting portion of this province of New Zealand, we--the assembled
+inhabitants of Auckland, representing every section of the community, and
+for the most part intimately connected with the Agriculture and Commerce
+of the province--desire to express our admiration of the eminently
+scientific manner and unwearied activity with which you have conducted
+your researches into the Geological Formations and Mineral Resources of
+Auckland. We have also to thank you for the valuable information upon
+these objects, which you have already placed in our possession in the
+public lecture delivered by you in this hall on the 24th of June, and in
+the reports you have forwarded to the General and Provincial Governments.
+
+The report of a member of the _Novara_ Expedition, on the physical
+characteristics of this portion of New Zealand--of which so little has
+hitherto been known--will be acknowledged in Europe as both impartial and
+authentic.
+
+To us, as a community, the information contained in that report and the
+maps you have constructed, together with those additional details we hope
+to receive from you after your return to Europe, will be of essential
+service in a material point of view. We also desire to convey to you our
+sense of the impartiality of your reports, which, whilst they lay open to
+our view those resources of the country that will eventually aid to its
+wealth and its general prosperity, in no way exaggerate their value or
+tend to lead to extravagant ideas or speculations that might only result
+in disappointment.
+
+Arriving in Auckland a stranger, upon whose sympathies we had no claim,
+you have exerted all your energies to condense the results of your
+scientific exploration into practical forms, for the benefit of the people
+of the foreign country you visited for purely scientific purposes, or for
+the special advantage of your own country.
+
+On all these accounts we feel that our warmest thanks are due to you for
+your disinterested exertions for the promotion of our welfare. As an
+enduring testimony thereof, we request the acceptance of this purse, the
+contents of which we beg you will devote to the purchase of some piece of
+plate that we trust may be regarded by your family and your countrymen,
+not only as a tribute of respect to your varied talents, but as a
+well-merited memento of the grateful acknowledgment by the people of the
+province of Auckland of the eminent scientific and practical services
+rendered to them by you.
+
+We are desirous that the plate should bear the following inscription:
+
+"Presented to Dr. Hochstetter, Geologist attached to the Imperial Royal
+Austrian Scientific Expedition in the frigate _Novara_, by the inhabitants
+of the Province of Auckland, New Zealand, in testimony of the eminent
+services rendered to them by his researches into the Mineral and
+Agricultural resources of the Province."
+
+                                      Signed on behalf of the subscribers,
+
+             R. MOULD,                               JOHN WILLIAMSON,
+             Colonel, commanding Royal Engineers,    Superintendent,
+             Chairman of Committee.                  Province of Auckland.
+
+_Auckland, 24th July, 1857._
+
+
+
+
+                       APPENDIX VI. (p. 193.)
+
+    ADDRESS OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE CITY AND PROVINCE OF NELSON TO
+    THE GEOLOGIST OF THE NOVARA.
+
+
+Dr. Hochstetter,
+
+Before your departure from among us, we, the inhabitants of the Province
+and City of Nelson, beg to express to you our great obligations for the
+benefits which you have conferred upon us as a community.
+
+Though we cannot but congratulate you upon your approaching return to your
+country and your family, we have strong personal reasons for looking upon
+it with regret. We feel that it has been no light or trifling advantage to
+have had among us one of that small class of men who conduct the great
+national expeditions by which the benefits of science are distributed over
+the world.
+
+We know that such an one comes invested with the highest possible
+authority to speak decidedly on the subjects of his investigations, and
+are sure that we may place the most implicit confidence in his statements.
+It is the great characteristic of such scientific pursuits as you are
+engaged in, that though on the one hand they are joined to the deepest and
+inmost principles of nature, on the other they are linked to the daily
+wants and commonest necessities of life. We believe therefore that your
+visit here will not be barren of practical results. We believe that it
+will give us both a desire to develope, as far as possible, our share of
+the gifts of nature, and a knowledge how we may best do this.
+
+We know that we have had no special claims on you for the interest you
+have taken in our welfare. The advantages which we have derived from it
+are, however, of such a kind that both those who give and those who
+receive may be proud of. We have had many opportunities of noticing how
+earnestly you pursue knowledge for its own sake, and are glad to find that
+those who do so are the most ready to employ for the benefit of others
+what they have acquired themselves. You have done this in our case with
+considerable personal exertion and discomfort, which have been cheerfully
+encountered by your diligence and activity.
+
+We do not wish to do more than allude to considerations of a personal
+kind. But we must express our appreciation of your courteous and kind
+behaviour towards us, and assure you that few men could have been among us
+for so short a time and have acquired so much of the character of a
+personal friend.
+
+We beg your acceptance of the accompanying Testimonial, the product of our
+Gold-fields, and we ask you to apply it to the purchase of a piece of
+plate, which may help to keep us in your remembrance, and on which we ask
+you to place the following inscription:--
+
+"Presented to Dr. Ferdinand Hochstetter, Geologist to the Imperial Royal
+Austrian Scientific Expedition in the frigate _Novara_, by the inhabitants
+of the Province of Nelson, New Zealand, as a record of their appreciation
+of the great benefits conferred upon them and the Colony by his frank
+communication of the results of his zealous and able researches into the
+geological character and mineral resources of the Province."
+
+We earnestly hope that all good may go with you on your return to Europe,
+and that after a pleasant and speedy voyage you may reach in safety your
+home and friends. And with this wish we bid you heartily "Farewell."
+
+                           Signed on behalf of the inhabitants of Nelson:
+
+                             J. P. ROBINSON,
+                                Superintendent of the Province of Nelson,
+                                  New Zealand.
+
+
+
+
+                             APPENDIX VII.
+
+
+NEW GRANADA has now taken the title of the United States of Colombia, as
+appears from the following document translated from the Spanish circular
+to the Diplomatic Officials and Consuls of the United States of Colombia.
+
+                  Secretary of State and Foreign Affairs.
+
+Sir,--
+
+In order that you may be exactly acquainted with the situation of the
+country, the undersigned Secretary of State, proposes to inform you every
+fortnight of the progress of the nation, setting forth fully and frankly
+all that has been done, neither misrepresenting nor omitting anything
+which, whether favourable or adverse to the new order of things in
+Colombia, may be worthy of your notice.
+
+You are not ignorant that since July 18, 1861, when the Federal Government
+came into power in Bogota, the States of Cauca, Antioquia, Santander, and
+Tolima have continued in the hands of the Centralists. You are not
+ignorant that the decrees of "Tincion and Desamortizacion" of effects in
+mortmain, put forth during the days which followed the 18th of July,
+provoked the most violent discontent on the part of the ultramontane
+clergy; and that these clergy, exchanging piety for gain, and setting
+aside all the Christian precepts of charity, renunciation of worldly
+goods, moderation, and submission to the powers that be, placed themselves
+in open rebellion, and endeavoured by every possible means to subvert the
+peace. Thus Romanism succeeded in raising in Santander an army of 3000
+men, in Tolima another of 1000, and in Boyaca and Cundinamarca several
+armed companies, one of which (that of Guasca) numbered upwards of 1000
+soldiers. The Government did not, nevertheless, concern itself much about
+this, because on its side were reason, opinion, and strength. Now, I am
+glad to tell you, that out of the nine States of the Colombian Union,
+seven enjoy an order and tranquillity as absolute as unchangeable. The
+heroic State of Santander, so maltreated by the Centralists during four
+years, does not contain on its soil one armed enemy, and its Government,
+diligent and efficient in peace as in war, is directing its attention to
+the re-establishment of commerce and the good exercise of its
+administration. The faction of Tolima, after having committed incalculable
+depredations and excesses, has been completely subdued. The parties
+fomented in Boyaca and Cundinamarca have been broken up; the only one
+which has hitherto been able to maintain a footing, although considerably
+diminished, that of Guasca, has been overcome during the last few days,
+its chief having been killed in battle. The only disturbed States are
+therefore now those of Cauca and Antioquia. Thus, then, considering that
+the seven States in which order and peace reign, Panama, Bolivar,
+Magdalena, Santander, Boyaca, Cundinamarca, and Tolima, are on the coast,
+in the north and centre; that is to say, the most important ones in a
+commercial, financial, and military point of view, because in them are
+principally found the ports through which our foreign commerce is carried
+on, the rich custom-houses, the salt mines, the navigable rivers, the most
+valuable riches, the most abundant agricultural produce, the sources of
+our exports, the great mass of the population, and the greatest amount of
+the national strength; it may very reasonably be concluded that Colombian
+order rests upon firm bases,--and considering, further, that in the two
+States still unquiet, the disturbers are reduced to very narrow limits,
+having no port through which to introduce the elements of war, no funds at
+their disposal to increase or maintain their present force;--that public
+opinion is generally against them, seeking all means of showing them
+hostility, of diminishing their army, and of closing to them all
+resources;--that they are closely threatened by a numerous, trained,
+enthusiastic army, in perfect discipline, and well supplied with
+provisions and ammunition;--that this army, part of which occupies the
+south of the valley of Cauca, another part the Andes of Quindio, and the
+other preparing at Mompos to penetrate, if necessary, into Antioquia,
+commanded by experienced generals, under the immediate direction of the
+President of the Union;--and lastly, that the insurgent troops will amount
+at most but to a third part of those sent against them by the Government;
+that they are in want both of provisions and arms, as also of able
+generals:--when all this is considered, I say, it must be concluded that
+ere long peace will be re-established in these two States as it has
+already been in the rest of Colombia. It is not without regret that the
+President is about to undertake military operations against the two
+disturbed States, for his most earnest desire has been to establish
+tranquillity by means of conciliation, without fighting. The conduct
+observed by him since the commencement of the civil war has been in
+keeping with this desire. Only to mention recent events, hardly was Bogota
+occupied in 1861, ere he addressed himself with this object in the most
+conciliating terms to the Governments of the insurgent States. That of
+Antioquia had not even the courtesy to answer him. A new and even more
+advantageous offer of peace, on the occasion of convoking the National
+Convention, has been made, proving the patriotic feeling of the President
+and the obduracy of the Centralists ruling in Antioquia. And it must be
+remembered that the leniency of the Government of the Union is so much the
+more praiseworthy, as it has been the Government of Antioquia which has
+brought upon Cauca the calamity which has now prostrated it. In fact,
+peace and law would have obtained there many months ago, but for a cruel
+faction supported and reinforced by the Antioquian Government, who renewed
+it when it was failing, supplied it with money and munitions, assisted it
+with military forces, and maintained anarchy and, not alarm, but terror,
+in the State of Cauca. But notwithstanding these weighty motives for
+inducing the Government of the Union to send its army against the State of
+Antioquia, yet with great magnanimity it has declared that it will only do
+so in the event of the Government of Antioquia not having agreed to
+submit to the Union by the 6th of August next, the day on which the
+national convention is to assemble at Cartajena. It is not indeed possible
+that this State should be allowed to remain separate from the Union,
+against the will of the Antioquian people, who do not join in the views of
+those now ruling them, nor is it to be endured that they should carry on
+against the other States and the Government of the Union a useless war,
+for no defined political object. The States that have not yet chosen their
+deputies for the Convention are now engaged in electing them. For the
+rest, although it may well be thought that after such a war as that
+through which we have passed the re-establishment of order and harmony in
+the different branches of public administration, as well in the States as
+in the Union, must be a long and anxious task, yet fortunately quite the
+contrary has taken place. Immediately after the battles in which the
+Federalists were successful society began to enjoy well-regulated civil
+and judicial administration, and consequently confidence, commerce,
+labour, social life, and striving for peace, were renewed with vigour. Our
+people is as much the friend of order and justice as of liberty and
+independence. To obey willingly it only desires from its governors
+honesty, activity, loyalty to institutions, patriotism, and respect for
+the ever moderate wishes of the country. The nation hates civil war, not
+alone from reason, but from instinct; it has not spontaneously sought the
+sad experience it has had of this terrible calamity; our strifes have not
+come from below; the incendiary torch fell from the seat of the chief
+Government. At least this is what has happened during the years just past.
+But this longing for durable peace, this dearly-bought experience, and
+this horror of civil war, joined to a moderate and firm love of liberty
+and a decided spirit of progress, will produce without doubt a
+constitution liberal, just, foreseeing, and clear, and for the future will
+excite the attention of the people to the election of their high
+officials. The President of the Union is in the country; his head-quarters
+are in no fixed place; until now he has been first in Piedras and then in
+Ambalema. A general secretary accompanies the President, for the despatch
+of administrative matters of a serious nature, or connected with the war,
+so that there may be no branch of government neglected, nor any subject of
+public interest which shall not be attended to as in ordinary times. This
+city, made nearly a year ago into a Federal district, has a governor and
+a sufficient number of alcaldes and other subalterns to maintain order and
+police. Besides the army which is moving upon Antioquia and Cauca, there
+has been raised and organized another of reserve, as strong as the former,
+and divided into three parts, which garrison the States of Santander,
+Boyaca, and Cundinamarca. The national engagements in matters of credit
+have engaged the attention of the Government in the most especial manner.
+No outlay, not even to satisfy the necessities of existence, does it
+prefer to fulfilling its obligations with foreign creditors. Also are
+religiously cancelled the obligations in favour of foreigners given by the
+disloyal Government of the extinct Granadine Confederation, for the sums
+taken to make war upon the States which have supported Federal
+institutions. Property belonging to foreigners is more efficiently
+protected than it appears ever to have been before. In fact, all that has
+relation to the faithful observance of public treaties, to the persons,
+properties, and rights of citizens, or subjects of other nations, is a
+subject of special solicitude to the Colombian Government, it being well
+persuaded that the civilization as well as the good of the country demand
+a faithful fulfilment of its foreign engagements, in order to raise the
+national credit, and to aggrandize, by the increase of knowledge, of
+wealth, and population, the modest country in which our lot has been cast.
+To conclude, a solid and general peace is approaching with quick steps,
+and I believe that I shall be able to announce it to you definitely,
+together with the notice of the commencement of the operation of the
+national Convention, within two months. Some material improvements have
+been undertaken; but the favourable moment of entire peace has not yet
+arrived to carry out all that the Government intends and desires to
+accomplish. In the "Rejistro Oficial" you will find all that has been done
+in these branches, and in favour of European immigration and the
+colonization of our waste lands.
+
+                                                   MANUEL ANCISAR.
+
+  _Bogota, June 5, 1862._
+
+
+                              FOOTNOTES:
+
+[158] The orthography of the above vocabulary is founded upon the ordinary
+rules for English pronunciation. The syllable on which the chief stress is
+laid is marked when necessary by an accent.
+
+[159] _Robert O'Hara Burke, and the Australian Exploring Expedition of
+1860._ By Andrew Jackson. London: Smith, Elder, and Co.
+
+
+
+
+                                INDEX.
+
+
+                                  A
+
+  Abaca, Manila Hemp, ii. 321-324
+
+  _Acacia Catechu_ (Terra Japonica), ii. 114
+
+  Adam's Peak, Ceylon, ascent of, i. 406-418
+
+  Adams, William, one of the mutineers of the _Bounty_, iii. 261-263
+
+  Address of the German Residents in Sydney to the commander of the
+      Expedition, iii. 53 (and Appendix)
+
+  Adiga River near Madras, i. 457
+
+  Agraharam, Imperial present to the Brahmins, i. 459
+
+  Agriculture, School of (_Quinta Normal_), at Santiago de Chile, iii. 300
+
+  Aichison, Mr., Missionary at Shanghai, ii. 460
+
+  Alameda, the new, at Lima, iii. 396
+
+  ---- the public promenade at Santiago de Chile, iii. 296
+
+  Albatross, the, i. 188
+
+  Alboran, Island of, i. 25
+
+  Algeziras, i. 40
+
+  Algoa Bay, i. 258
+
+  Alpaca, the, successful attempts to introduce into Australia, iii.
+      64-66; value in Peru and Bolivia, 65
+
+  Alwis, James de, his proficiency in Cingalese dialects, i. 396
+
+  Amancaes, Valley of, near Lima, iii. 396
+
+  Amaral, Dom Joao Maria Ferreira do, Governor of Macao, assassination of,
+      ii. 403
+
+  American Missionary Society, its activity in China, ii. 460-465
+
+  Amphitheatre, Roman, at Pola, iii. 454
+
+  Amsterdam, Island of, in Indian Ocean, i. 323-335
+
+  _Ananassa Sativa_, ii. 167, 325
+
+  Aneroid Barometers, their usefulness under certain conditions, iii. 328
+
+  Angas, Geo. Fred., Esq., secretary of the Australian Museum, Sydney,
+      iii. 33
+
+  Anthropometry, how practised, ii. 127; iii. 122-126
+
+  Ant Islands, ii. 588
+
+  Apothecary's store in Shanghai, ii. 437-440
+
+  Appin, village of, near Sydney, iii. 26
+
+  Aquasie Boachie, son of an African chief resident in Java, his history,
+      ii. 206
+
+  Arcot, city of, i. 452
+
+  Areca palm, ii. 102
+
+  Arequipa (Peru), iii. 350
+
+  Arewarewa, a skin disease common in the Society Islands, iii. 247
+
+  Arica (harbour and village), iii. 345
+
+  Armegon, first British settlement on the Coromandel coast, i. 428
+
+  Arreois, the, a secret society formerly existing at Tahiti, iii. 219
+
+  Arrival in Trieste, iii. 455
+
+  Artillery barrack at Valparaiso, iii. 285
+
+  Ash Island (New South Wales), iii. 44
+
+  Aspinwall (Isthmus of Panama), description of, iii. 438
+
+  Assacu tree, the (_Hura Brasiliensis_), i. 135
+
+  Atmospheric currents, i. 183
+
+  Atolls, appearance of and how accounted for, ii. 588, 626
+
+  Auckland, harbour and city, described, iii. 96-99
+
+  Augustinian (or Barefoot) monks, convent at Manila, ii. 304
+
+  Australia, German emigrants in, iii. 6, 31-33
+
+  Australian club in Sydney, iii. 43
+
+  ---- farm, description of an, iii. 38, 41
+
+  Australische Zeitung, the German newspaper in Sydney, iii. 6
+
+  Avatars, the, or descents of Vishnu, i. 436
+
+  Ave Maria in Manila, the, ii. 347
+
+  Azores, Island of, iii. 336
+
+  Azoteas, or terraced roofs of Lima, iii. 366
+
+
+                                  B
+
+  Baines, Admiral, Commander-in-chief of H.M. Pacific squadron, iii. 323,
+      418
+
+  Baker, W., Esq., Government interpreter at Auckland, iii. 102
+
+  Balgonie Farm, near Sydney, iii. 36
+
+  Ball on board the _Novara_ in honour of the birth of an heir to the
+      throne of Austria, iii. 52-54; ball given by the Austrian Consul at
+      Valparaiso in honour of the Expedition, 321
+
+  Balsas, or rafts used along the west coast of South America, description
+      of, iii. 419
+
+  Bamboo paper (China), ii. 516
+
+  Bampoka, island of (Nicobar Group), ii. 43, 61
+
+  Bampton reef, ii. 626
+
+  Bandong, city in Java, ii. 235
+
+  Banyan tree, i. 357
+
+  Bargo, forest huts at, near Sydney, iii. 40; curious library in one of
+      the houses at, 42
+
+  Barometer, its lowest reading during the Typhoon in the China seas, ii.
+      545
+
+  Barrier Island, iii. 91
+
+  Basle Missionary Association in China, ii. 368
+
+  Basses or Baxos near Galle, i. 418
+
+  Batavia, description of, ii. 180-190
+
+  Batte-Malve, Island of, one of the Nicobar Group, ii. 42
+
+  Bay-Lake (Manila), ii. 288
+
+  Bell-bird of Australia, the, iii. 38
+
+  Bennett, Dr. George, Zoologist of Sydney, iii. 14
+
+  Beri-Beri, a Javanese malady, ii. 188
+
+  Bernstein, Dr., physician and naturalist, ii. 211
+
+  Betel-nut and fibre, ii. 73, 102, 144, 238, 260
+
+  Biche de Mar, or sea slug. _See_ Trepang.
+
+  Big Island. _See_ Sikayana.
+
+  Binondo, suburb of Manila, ii. 290
+
+  Birloche, the, a two-wheeled vehicle in use in Chile, iii. 294
+
+  Bleeker, Dr., Ichthyologist in Java, ii. 183
+
+  Bligh, Capt., commander of the _Bounty_, iii. 260; his fate, 261;
+      becomes Governor of the penal colony of Botany Bay, 75
+
+  Blodgett, Rev. Mr., Missionary at Shanghai, ii. 460
+
+  _Boehmeria nivea_, the Rame-fibre, ii. 167, 205, 321-324
+
+  Bohea mountains of China, the, ii. 506
+
+  Bo-tree, the (_Ficus religiosa_), i. 357
+
+  Bolts, William, his attempt to colonize the Nicobars for Austria, ii.
+      6-10
+
+  Book-printing introduced into Tahiti, iii. 202
+
+  Boomerang, known to the ancient Egyptians, iii. 31
+
+  Borax, or Tincal, trade in, along the Peruvian coast, iii. 344
+
+  Botanical garden of Rio, i. 143; of Cape Town, 205; of Buitenzorg
+      (Java), ii. 205; of Sydney, iii. 20
+
+  Botanical riches of the Nicobars, ii. 101-103; of Java, 204-206; of
+      Sydney, iii. 19-21
+
+  Botany Bay, account of, iii. 18
+
+  Botany Tower, in Sydney, iii. 18
+
+  _Bounty_, abridged account of mutiny of the, and subsequent fate of the
+      mutineers and their descendants, iii. 261-276
+
+  Brahmaism, its tenets, i. 435-437
+
+  Brand Vley, hot-springs of (Cape Colony), i. 225-229
+
+  Brauns, William, Consul-general of Hamburg, at Lima, iii. 364
+
+  Brazil, importance of, as a field for German emigration, i. 132, 171
+
+  Bread-fruit tree found in the Nicobars, ii. 101; in Puynipet, 558, 567;
+      in Tahiti, iii. 243
+
+  "Brickfielder," unpleasant sensations in a, 111. 52
+
+  Bridgman, Dr., Missionary and Sinologue, ii. 460
+
+  _Bromelia ananas_. _See_ _Ananassa sativa_.
+
+  Brooke's deep-sea lead, mode of using and results, i. 112, 263
+
+  Brotherhood of the Heaven and Earth (secret society of the Chinese of
+      Singapore), ii. 147
+
+  Broughton's Pass in New South Wales, iii. 27
+
+  Browne, Col. T. Gore, Governor of New Zealand, iii. 136
+
+  Buddha, tooth of, i. 405
+
+  Buddhism, tenets and history of, i. 352-358
+
+  Buitenzorg (Java), excursion to, ii, 203-208
+
+  Bukit Timah, the, or mountain of tin at Singapore, ii. 143
+
+  "Bullock-bandy," Cingalese native conveyance, i. 417
+
+  Bungalow, description of one at Vellore, i. 452
+
+  "Burster," violence of, at New Zealand, iii. 141
+
+  Bush, the, of Australia, described, iii. 26, 30
+
+  Bushmen, or Bosjesmen, the, i. 203
+
+  Bush-rangers, depredations of the, iii. 76
+
+
+                                  C
+
+  Cabo Tormentoso, Storm Cape, now Cape of Good Hope, i. 192-195, 257
+
+  Caffres, i. 203
+
+  Cajamarquilla, ruins of, visited, iii. 385-388
+
+  Caldera, Chile, its appearance, iii. 340
+
+  Caledon, village of Cape Colony, visit to, i. 242
+
+  Callao, port of Lima, iii. 363
+
+  Caltura, Ceylon, curious rencontre at, i. 369, 397
+
+  Calzada, the, or public promenade of Manila, ii. 310
+
+  Camden Park, Sydney, visit to, iii. 20-23
+
+  Camoens, grotto of, at Macao, ii. 394
+
+  Camote, the, or sweet potato, ii. 102
+
+  Campamiento (Gibraltar), i. 39
+
+  Campbell, Mr., of Tacna (Peru), curious statistics furnished by him of
+      the stimulating properties of coca leaves, iii. 404
+
+  Campbelton, New South Wales, excursion to, iii. 24
+
+  Campo Santo, or cemetery of Valparaiso, iii. 289
+
+  Canalization, extent to which carried in China, ii, 479
+
+  Cannibalism in Australia, iii. 33; in New Zealand, 108
+
+  Canoes of the natives of Puynipet described, ii. 552
+
+  Canton-English, peculiarities of, ii. 351, 364
+
+  Canton River, ascent of the, ii. 381
+
+  Canton, visit to, ii. 380-386
+
+  Cape Brett, New Zealand, iii. 91
+
+  Cape Horn, rounding of, iii. 325-328
+
+  Cape Pigeon, habits of the, i. 157-190
+
+  Cape San Augustin, i. 118
+
+  Carabus or Calaboose, the prison at Tahiti, iii. 238
+
+  Caret, Catholic missionary, his pertinacity at Tahiti, and its results,
+      iii. 204-206
+
+  Carlowitz, M. von, Prussian Consul at Macao, ii. 394
+
+  Carretas, or ox-carriages of Chile, iii. 296
+
+  Carron, Kennedy's companion in the explorations made by the latter in
+      Northern Australia, iii. 12
+
+  Carteret Island, ii. 595
+
+  Carthagena, port of, in New Granada, iii. 440
+
+  Casa Blanca, one of the oldest settlements in Chile, iii. 294
+
+  Cash, common copper currency of China, ii. 419
+
+  Castilla, Don Ramon de, president of Chile, interview with, iii. 303-306
+
+  Cathedral of Tong-Kadu near Shanghai, ii. 445, 478; of Lima, iii. 369
+
+  Cavite, the outport of Manila, ii. 280
+
+  Cayenne, French penal colony in, revelations concerning, iii. 252
+
+  Center, A. J., Esq., Director of the Isthmus of Panama railroad, his
+      kindness, iii. 438
+
+  Central Normal School of Lima, iii. 378
+
+  Cerro Alegre, Valparaiso, iii. 288
+
+  Cerro de Canetas, near Valparaiso, iii. 284
+
+  Ceuta, Spanish fort of, i. 27
+
+  Chagres, fever ravages of, iii. 439
+
+  Chala (Peru), harbour of, iii. 353
+
+  Chatham Island, iii. 95
+
+  Cheyne, Capt. Andrew, his charts of the West Pacific, remarks on
+      Puynipet, ii. 554; remarks on Simpson Island, 585-588, 592;
+      geographical information respecting Bradley Reef, 594; remarks on
+      the population of Sikayana, 613
+
+  Chicha, the, a Chilian drink, iii. 316
+
+  Chile, state of parties in, iii. 305
+
+  China Tree, cultivation of, in Java, ii. 227-233; in Bolivia and Peru,
+      iii. 413-417; points requiring to be elucidated, 409-412
+
+  Chincha Islands, deposits of Guano on, iii. 355-362; life upon the, 357
+
+  Chinese banquet, description of a, ii. 485-493
+
+  ---- Council Chamber, ii. 427
+
+  ---- dramatic representations, ii. 486
+
+  ---- eating-houses, ii. 429
+
+  ---- language and mode of writing, ii. 365
+
+  ---- reckoning board, and how it is used, ii. 170
+
+  ---- soothsayers, ii. 362
+
+  ---- tea-garden, ii. 430
+
+  Cholera at Madeira, i. 85-88; at Rio, 152; at Singapore, ii. 141, 151;
+      in China, 453
+
+  Chorillos, sea-side watering-place of the Limanos, iii. 389-391
+
+  Chronometers, their accuracy fully established, iii. 336
+
+  Church processions in Manila, ii. 345-347
+
+  Cigar manufactory at Manila, ii. 317-320
+
+  Cinchona, or Peruvian Bark. _See_ Fever-Bark.
+
+  Cingalese canoe, i. 417
+
+  Cinnamon, cultivation of, in Ceylon, statistics of, i. 373-377
+
+  Clarence River, in Australia, iii. 22; Stearine Candle Manufactory at,
+      iii. 22
+
+  Clarke, W. B., geologist, iii. 14
+
+  ----, Rev. H. F., virtually the first discoverer of Gold in Australia,
+      iii. 66, 67
+
+  Club, Australian, hospitalities of the, iii. 43
+
+  "Coachman's Whip," the (a bird peculiar to Australia), iii. 38
+
+  Cobija, Bolivia, harbour and prospects of, iii. 342
+
+  Cobra di Capello, found in Ceylon occasionally, i. 363, 401
+
+  Coca (or _Erythroxylon Coca_) of Peru, its remarkable properties, iii.
+      402-406;  chemical analysis of its leaves at Goettingen, 406-409
+
+  Cocain, the organic base of the Coca leaves, discovered at Goettingen,
+      iii. 407
+
+  _Coccus Pela_, the tree-wax insect of China, ii. 518
+
+  Cochineal, i. 82; plantations of, at Pondok Gedeh (Java), ii. 210
+
+  Cockatoo Island, Port Jackson, iii. 49
+
+  Cock-fighting in Manila, prevalence of, ii. 312
+
+  Cocoa-nut and palm, iii. 243
+
+  Coffee-culture in Ceylon, i. 377-379; in Java, ii. 242-244
+
+  Coggerah Bay, New South Wales, iii. 58
+
+  Colic, the dry or vegetal form of (Tahiti), iii. 260
+
+  Colonization of the Nicobar Archipelago, attempts at, ii. 1-15, 128-131
+
+  ----, French principles of, compared with those of England, iii. 250,
+      251
+
+  Comet of 1858, ii. 594
+
+  Comprador, a Chinese, described, ii. 360-362
+
+  Concordia, military association of (Batavia), ii. 268
+
+  Confucius, temple of, at Shanghai, ii. 433
+
+  Constantia wine, statistics of manufacture of, i. 255
+
+  Convict question considered, iii. 72-90; settlement at Singapore, ii.
+      164-168
+
+  Cook-river Bay, New South Wales, iii. 58
+
+  Cook's Straits, New Zealand, iii. 95
+
+  Coolie trade, its dimensions at Macao, ii. 397-401
+
+  Cooper, Sir Daniel, his country-seat, and hospitable reception by, iii.
+      16
+
+  Copiapo, Chile, copper and silver mines of, iii. 341, 342
+
+  Coquimbo, port of, iii. 340
+
+  Coral reef of Puynipet, ii. 556
+
+  Corregidor Island, Manila Bay, ii. 279
+
+  Coroborry, dance of the Australian aborigines, described, iii. 34
+
+  Cowries, mussel shells, used as currency, i. 394
+
+  Crocodiles in Madras, i. 449; in Manila, ii. 337
+
+  Cruera Patuoni, a New Zealand chief, his address to the members of the
+      Expedition, iii. 103
+
+  Cuba, statistics of tobacco culture in, ii. 320
+
+  Culture system adopted in Java, features of the, ii. 244-246
+
+  Curacavi, village in Chile, iii. 295
+
+  Curare, the Indian poison, i. 138
+
+  _Curcuma longa_, ii. 562
+
+  Curry, its constituents, i. 368
+
+  Cuzent, Dr. G., valuable work on Tahiti by, iii. 215, 247
+
+  Cyclones, or hurricanes, speculations as to origin of, i. 183-185, ii.
+      547-549; description of one, 538-547
+
+
+                                  D
+
+  Dagga, Tascha or Takka, used by the Hottentots as a masticatory, i. 241
+
+  Dahata Wahansa (the Holy Tooth), Ceylon. _See_ Buddha's Tooth.
+
+  Dammara pine. _See_ Kauri pine.
+
+  Damper, unleavened bread used in the Australian Bush, iii. 38
+
+  Dana, his researches in New Zealand, iii. 181
+
+  Dances of savage races--Caffres, i. 209; Javanese, ii. 260-264;
+      inhabitants of Puynipet Island, 583; Australians, iii. 34; New
+      Zealanders, 101; Tahitians, 219; natives of New Caledonia, 221
+
+  Davis, John, an English sailor, abandoned on the island of Sikayana, his
+      account of the natives, ii. 608-610
+
+  Denison, Sir William, his reception, iii. 5, 14; his work on convict
+      discipline, 51; hospitable reception by, 55; opens Parliament of New
+      South Wales, 56
+
+  Diadem, the, a mountain peak of Tahiti, iii. 225
+
+  Dictionary, Maori, iii. 127
+
+  Dieffenbach, his geological researches in New Zealand, iii. 109, 127
+
+  Divers (pearl-) of Ceylon, i. 382-384
+
+  Dkinawasima, island of, ii. 547
+
+  Domeyko, Professor Ignacio, of Santiago, iii. 303
+
+  Dominican Monks of Manila, ii. 302
+
+  Dragon tree of Madeira, i. 59-64
+
+  Drury, district of in New Zealand, visit to, iii. 155; its coal-fields,
+      169-172
+
+  Dubash (an Indian factotum), his functions, i. 425
+
+  Duck-hunting in Manila, ii. 329-339
+
+  Du Petit-Thouars, captain of French frigate _Venus_, his oppression in
+      Tahiti, iii. 208
+
+
+                                  E
+
+  Earthquakes in Peru, iii. 362
+
+  Edible swallows' nests, ii. 235-237
+
+  Eimeo, one of the Society Islands, iii. 196, 241
+
+  _Elephantiasis graecorum_, its ravages in Brazil, i. 135; singular mode
+      of treatment for, 136
+
+  Elephants in Ceylon, i. 410, 411
+
+  Emigration of Chinese, ii. 397-400
+
+  Emu, the, description of, iii. 31, 34
+
+  Encouragement of learning in China, ii. 419
+
+  English colonies, their influence on the mother country, iii. 1-3
+
+  Evans, Lieut., U.S.A., director of the Chilean railway, iii. 308
+
+  ----, F., his chart of magnetic declinations, iii. 257
+
+  Expedition, Kennedy's, for traversing the continent of Australia,
+      tragical fate of, iii. 13
+
+  ----, table of, throughout the voyage, i. Appendix
+
+
+                                  F
+
+  Faaa, village of Tahiti, iii. 223; fete there, 230-235
+
+  Falkland Islands, passed on voyage home, iii. 329-330
+
+  Falmouth Harbour, arrival of author at, iii. 446
+
+  Faole, one of the groups of Stuart's Islands, ii. 604, 607-609
+
+  Fare-rupe (_Pteris esculentum_) of Tahiti, iii. 245
+
+  Fata Morgana, appearance of, i. 49
+
+  Fauna of Island of St. Paul, i. 297
+
+  Fautaua, a hill-fort in Tahiti, iii. 227; waterfall of, iii. 226
+
+  Feejee Islands, iii. 89
+
+  Feet, artificial compression of women's, in China, ii. 372
+
+  Fei, or wild plantain, Tahiti, iii, 243
+
+  Fenton, F. D., his work on the origin of the Maori population of New
+      Zealand, iii. 138-140
+
+  Ferdinand Maximilian, Archduke, visits the _Novara_, iii. 452-455
+
+  Ferguson, Sir James, Governor of Gibraltar, i. 28, iii. 450
+
+  Fernando de Noronha, island of, i. 117
+
+  Fever-Bark, or Cinchona. _See_ China tree.
+
+  "Fiestas Reales," Manila, ii. 314
+
+  Fire, alarm of, on board, i. 420-422
+
+  Fire companies in Valparaiso, iii. 288
+
+  "Fire of the Gods," name of a New Zealand weapon, iii. 101
+
+  Fire on Island of Amsterdam, accidental, i. 332
+
+  _Ficus Indica_. _See_ Banyan tree.
+
+  ---- _Religiosa_. _See_ Bo-tree.
+
+  Fish, species of, at St. Paul Island, i. 316
+
+  Fitzroy Dry Dock, Cockatoo Island, Sydney, iii. 49
+
+  _Flata limbata_, or wax insect of China. See _Coccus pelah_.
+
+  Flemmich, J. F., Austrian Cons.-Gen. for Chile, iii. 279, 293, 321
+
+  Flora of Island of St. Paul, i. 312-315
+
+  Flying Fish, i. 110
+
+  ---- Fox (Pteropus), or Kalong Bat, ii. 234, 337
+
+  Fonseca, Friar Joachim, Manila, ii. 302
+
+  Foot-print of Buddha, Ceylon, i. 413-415
+
+  Fort St. George, Madras, i. 428, 474
+
+  Fortune, Rob., naturalist, ii. 508
+
+  Foundling and orphan children in China, statistics of, ii. 421-423
+
+  Foveau Straits, New Zealand, iii. 95
+
+  Franciscan monks, monastery of, at Manila, ii. 303
+
+  Frangerola, harbour of, in Spain, i. 47
+
+  French language compulsorily introduced into Tahiti, iii. 239, 240
+
+  ---- naval stations in Oceania, remarks on, iii. 248-253
+
+  ---- protection of Tahiti, its influence on commerce, iii. 248
+
+  Friedrich, Dr., philologist (Batavia), ii. 185
+
+  Friedrich's Islands (the Nicobars, which see)
+
+  Fukien, or Fo-Kien, province of China, ii. 371
+
+  Funchal, description of, i. 91-97
+
+  Funeral customs of Australian aborigines, iii. 32, 33; of Nicobar
+      Islands, ii. 31, 32
+
+  Fung-yun-san, one of the founders of the Tai-ping sect, ii. 530; his
+      marriage with "the Heavenly Sister," 530
+
+
+                                  G
+
+  Gadok, sanitary hill-station in Java, ii. 211
+
+  _Galatea_, Danish corvette, visit of, to the Nicobars, ii. 13.
+
+  Galatea River on the island of Great Nicobar, ii. 76
+
+  Gallinazos, or Turkey buzzards, at Lima, iii. 368
+
+  Gamelong, or alarm-drum of Java, ii. 260
+
+  Gamhi plantations, ii. 144, 239
+
+  Ganeza, Temple of, at Madras, i. 461
+
+  _Ganges_, H.M.S., courtesy shown by officers of, iii, 323
+
+  Garden Island, ii. 627
+
+  Garua, the, substitute for rain in Peru, iii. 351-366
+
+  Gaspar Straits, ii. 175, 177, 178
+
+  Gay, Claude, his work on Chile, iii. 297
+
+  Gecko, the (Ceylon), i. 360
+
+  Gedeh, volcano of, in Java, ii. 208, 218, 221
+
+  Genaadendal, Moravian colony of, i. 229-240
+
+  German Emigrants in Rio, i. 164-173; in Shanghai, ii. 494-496; in
+      Valparaiso, iii. 291, 316-318
+
+  Gibraltar, description of, i. 29-46; return to, iii. 448-450
+
+  Gilli-Mali, village of Ceylon, i. 407
+
+  Ginseng root, China, ii. 439
+
+  _Glossina morsitans._ _See_ Tsetse.
+
+  Goddess of the Sea (or Queen of Heaven), Temple to the, at Shanghai, ii.
+      428
+
+  Gold-fields of Australia, statistics of, iii. 66-70
+
+  Gower Island, ii. 595
+
+  _Graculus Indicus_, or Maina, at the Nicobars, ii. 75
+
+  Grass-cloth, manufacture of, ii. 325
+
+  Gravosa, arrival at, on return voyage, iii. 452
+
+  Great Nicobar, description of, ii. 72, 76-79
+
+  Green Indigo (Chinese green), ii. 370-378
+
+  Green stone, Nephrite, or Jade, weapons made from, iii. 118; history of
+      a large block of, 119
+
+  Gregory, his expedition in search of Dr. Leichhardt, iii. 11
+
+  Grey, Sir George, his works on the ancient Maories and their dialects,
+      iii. 126
+
+  Gros, Baron de, French Plenipotentiary in China, ii. 468-471; ludicrous
+      malady of, 471
+
+  Guadalcanar, one of the Solomon Group, ii. 624
+
+  Guam, or Guaham, Island, ii. 550
+
+  Guamul, the Chilean deer, iii. 299
+
+  Guano. _See_ Chincha Islands.
+
+  Guava, the (_Psidium Guava_), of Tahiti, iii. 223, 224
+
+  Guindy Park, Madras, children's fete in, i. 453-457
+
+  Gunpowder trade with New Zealand rebels, iii. 135
+
+  Gunyahs (Sandstone cavities), New South Wales, iii. 58
+
+  Gutzlaff Island, ii. 409
+
+
+                                  H
+
+  Haast, J., naturalist, accompanies the geologist of the Expedition into
+      the interior of New Zealand, iii. 155
+
+  Hakka dialect, in use in China, ii. 368
+
+  Hall of United Benevolence at Shanghai, ii. 426; of Council, Shanghai,
+      427
+
+  Hance, Dr., Botanist at Hong-kong, ii. 379
+
+  Hand-book in Chinese of Physiology and practical Surgery, ii. 454
+
+  Hangi-Maori, New Zealander's cooking oven, iii. 162
+
+  Hargraves, the practical discoverer of the Australian gold-fields, iii.
+      67
+
+  Harland, Dr., Hong-kong, ii. 379, 454
+
+  Hartmann, Madame, Buitenzorg, ii. 266
+
+  Haszkarl, Dr., Botanist, ii. 228, iii. 410
+
+  Hawaiki, Island of, supposed cradle of the New Zealand race, iii. 107
+
+  Hay, Capt. Drummond, in New Zealand, iii. 154, 167, 181
+
+  Heaphy, Charles, Chief Engineer, New Zealand, iii. 154
+
+  Hemeralopia, prevalence of, on board, i. 419
+
+  Herredia, Dr. Cajetano, of Lima, iii. 374
+
+  Herzl, Dr., of Santiago di Chile, iii. 308
+
+  Hill, Edward, Esq., of Sydney, his thorough acquaintance with native
+      language and customs, iii. 29; excursion with, to Wulongong, iii. 30
+
+  Hindoo Temple at Madras, visit to, i. 430
+
+  _Hippomane Mancinella_ (Poison tree), Central America, iii. 438
+
+  Hobson, Dr. B., of Shanghai, ii. 451-453
+
+  Hochstetter, Dr. Ferdinand, Geologist to the Expedition, abridged
+      narrative of his scientific tours in New Zealand, iii. 155-169,
+      177-194; addresses to. _See_ Appendix.
+
+  Hoei, or Tuite-Huy, Fraternity of Heaven and Earth (secret society of
+      Chinese), tenets of, ii. 195-199
+
+  Hogg, James, Hanseatic Consul, Shanghai, ii. 477, 494
+
+  Holothuria. _See_ Trepang.
+
+  Hong-kong, description of, ii. 355-364
+
+  Horse, first introduction of, into Tahiti, iii. 201
+
+  Hot-springs, Island of St. Paul, i. 280; of Brand Vley, i. 227
+
+  Hottentots, habits of, i. 209
+
+  "House of Big Words" (_Fare Aporaa_), the Parliament House at Papeete,
+      Tahiti, iii. 210-212
+
+  Howe, W., associate of the London Missionary Society in Papeete, iii.
+      214-216
+
+  Huanchaco harbour, Peru, iii. 418
+
+  Hui Haupapa, a New Zealand chief, oration of, iii. 104
+
+  Humboldt, Alex. von, his physical and geognostic memoranda, i.
+      (Introduction);  intelligence of his death, how received in South
+      America, iii. 423, 424
+
+  Humboldt's Current, iii. 278
+
+  Hung-Tsin-Tsuen, chief of the Tai-pings, ii. 523-526
+
+  Huraka Gulf, New Zealand, iii. 91
+
+  Hursthouse, his latest work on New Zealand, iii. 127
+
+  Hwa-tah, nine-storied Pagoda, near Canton, ii. 396
+
+  _Hyrax Capensis_, i. 242
+
+
+                                  I
+
+  Ice, statistics of trade at Ceylon, i. 373; at Valparaiso, iii. 302; at
+      Panama, 427, 428
+
+  Ichthyosis, prevalence of, among the natives of the island of Puynipet,
+      ii. 573
+
+  Illawara District, New South Wales, iii. 25-39
+
+  Infanticide in China, ii. 369-372
+
+  Iquique Harbour, Peru, iii. 342, 352
+
+  Isthmus of Panama, trade over, iii. 428-431; geographical and physical
+      features of, 434, 437
+
+  Iting, village in Peru, iii. 419
+
+  Itoe, village on Nangkauri (Nicobar), ii. 49-51
+
+  Iwi, demon of the Nicobars, ii. 70; an exorciser of, 69-71
+
+
+                                  J
+
+  Jacatra, ancient name of Batavia, ii. 181
+
+  Jade-stone, its value in China, ii. 363
+
+  Jansen, Florentin Tepano, Bishop of Axieri in Papeete, iii. 217
+
+  Java, excursions in, ii. 181-280
+
+  Jesuit mission of Sikkawei, Shanghai, ii. 477-483
+
+  _Joseph and Theresa_, first Austrian ship to visit the Nicobars, ii. 10
+
+  Joss-paper, used in Chinese temples, ii. 432
+
+  Joss-sticks, ii. 341
+
+  Junghuhn, Dr. Franz, his career, ii. 230, 240, 252; desiderata of China
+      bark cultivation, iii. 409-412
+
+  Jungle-men of the Nicobar Islands, ii. 40
+
+  Junks, Chinese, ii. 352, 392, 413, 478
+
+  Jurujuba Cove, Bay of Rio de Janeiro, i. 158
+
+
+                                  K
+
+  Kalamander-wood, i. 395
+
+  Kalong Bat. _See_ Flying Fox.
+
+  Kamorta, Island of, Nicobar Group, ii. 55, 84, 86
+
+  Kampong, Chinese colonies in Java, ii. 195-197
+
+  Kane, Dr., of Macao, ii. 396
+
+  Kangaroo Hunting, in New South Wales, iii. 36, 37
+
+  Kar-Nicobar, Island of, i. 481, ii. 12, 14, 16-37
+
+  Karroo, the (Cape Colony), i. 231
+
+  Katschal, Island of, Nicobar Group, ii. 86
+
+  Kauri forest, a, in New Zealand, iii. 150
+
+  Kauri pine, iii. 151
+
+  Kawa beverage, its intoxicating properties, and how prepared in Tahiti,
+      iii. 245-247
+
+  Kawa plant (_Piper methysticum_), its properties, ii. 568, iii. 147, 245
+
+  Kawain, extract of Kawa, iii. 246-248
+
+  Keasberry, B. P., Missionary at Singapore, ii. 162
+
+  Keira Hills, New South Wales, iii. 37; coal-fields in, 39
+
+  Kennedy, E. B., his fatal exploring expedition to Cape York, Northern
+      Australia, iii. 12, 13
+
+  Kentsch, singular malady in Puynipet, ii. 574
+
+  Klings, natives of Coromandel coast, ii. 145, 149
+
+  Knight, Dr., Botanist, Auckland, iii. 141
+
+  Koek, M. de, Batavia, ii. 203
+
+  Koeping, one of the earliest visitors to the Nicobars, ii. 2
+
+  Kolowrat, mountain on the Island of Malayta, ii. 596
+
+  Komios, village in Kar-Nicobar, ii. 38-41
+
+  Kondul, Island of the Nicobars, ii. 69, 87
+
+  Krammat, mausoleum of a Malay prophet at the Cape, i. 244-248
+
+  Kratochwil, Joseph, physician in Panama, iii. 428
+
+  Krishna, the Hindoo Divinity, i. 436-460
+
+  Kulczycki, Adam, Director of native department at Papeete, iii. 214
+
+  Kumara (_Convolvulus Batata_), New Zealand, iii. 121
+
+  Kus-kus grass (_Andropogon muricatum_), i. 465
+
+
+                                  L
+
+  Labour, European and Chinese compared, ii. 148
+
+  Laguna de Bay, Manila, excursion to, ii. 325-341
+
+  Laguna Encantada, the enchanted Lake near Manila, ii. 335-338
+
+  Lalang grass (_Saccharum Koenigii_), ii. 51
+
+  Lambajeque, harbourage on coast of Peru, iii. 419
+
+  Lammat mountains, Solomon Islands, ii. 624
+
+  Lang, J. D., Sydney, his historical and political works and address to
+      Frankfort Congress, iii. 15
+
+  Lao-tse, Chinese sage, ii. 435
+
+  La Perouse, monument to, at Botany Bay, iii. 17, 18
+
+  Las Esmeraldas, Hacienda in Chile, iii. 311-313
+
+  Lascars, Indian porters, i. 426
+
+  Laval, Catholic Missionary to Tahiti, iii. 204
+
+  Layard, C. P., Government agent in Ceylon, i. 396
+
+  Lazar village. _See_ Leper village.
+
+  Le Breton, Physician in Panama, iii. 428
+
+  Lee Harbour. _See_ Roankiddi Harbour.
+
+  Leeches, land-, of Ceylon, i. 407
+
+  Legabalu, Island of, ii. 1
+
+  Legaspi, conqueror of the Philippines, ii. 286, 287
+
+  Leichhardt, his tragical fate in Australia, iii. 12
+
+  Lemmas Canal, Hong-kong, ii. 353
+
+  _Leonitis Leonurus_, masticatory used by the Hottentots, i. 241
+
+  Leper village near Canton, ii. 457
+
+  Leprosy in China, ii. 455-459
+
+  Lima, account of, iii. 364-383
+
+  "Line," ceremony in "crossing the," i. 115-117
+
+  Little Hong-kong, small fishing village of, ii. 379
+
+  Little Nicobar, Island of, ii. 63, 81
+
+  Liu-tschiu (or Loo-choo) Islands, ii. 538, 543, 547
+
+  Llama, introduction of, into Australia, iii. 64-66
+
+  Lobschied, Dr. W., school inspector, Hong-kong, ii. 369, 379
+
+  Logan, Dr. Abraham, editor of "Singapore Free Press," ii. 161
+
+  ---- J. H., publisher of "Journal of Indian Archipelago," ii. 161
+
+  Lombok, embassy from the king of, ii. 199-202
+
+  London Missionary Society, ii. 451, iii. 200, 214-216
+
+  Long-Fah, Pagoda of, near Shanghai, ii. 484
+
+  Loo-Rock, lofty rock near Funchal, i. 57
+
+  Los Banos, village near Manila, ii. 332-335
+
+  Lossen, W., his experiments on the cocoa leaf, iii. 407
+
+  Lu Kao. _See_ Green Indigo.
+
+  Lunatic Asylum, Rio, i. 142; Manila, ii. 348; Lima, iii. 378
+
+  Luetke, Russian Admiral, ii. 552
+
+  Luzon, ii. 281-284
+
+
+                                  M
+
+  Macarthur, Sir William, New South Wales, iii. 20-25
+
+  Macartney, Lord, his embassy to China, 1792, i. 299
+
+  Macleay, botanist, New South Wales, his residence at Elizabeth Bay, iii.
+      16
+
+  Madras, i. 424-447
+
+  Mafoumo river, on East coast of Africa, ii. 9
+
+  _Magdalena_, steamer, voyage home in, iii. 443-447
+
+  Magelhaen, discovers Manila, ii. 285; his fate, 310; Straits of,
+      settlement in, iii. 317; projected steam-tug line through, 317-320
+
+  Magnetic declination, zero point of, iii. 257-260, 279
+
+  ---- needle, variation of, iii. 257
+
+  Mahabharata, Indian poem of, i. 472-474
+
+  Mahamalaipur, City of the Holy Hill, monolith temples at, i. 464-474
+
+  Mahawanso, Cingalese epic poem, i. 395, 396
+
+  Mahishasura, the Indian giant, memorial of, i. 467
+
+  Maigrat, Catholic missionary to Tahiti, iii. 106
+
+  Maipu bridge, Chile, iii. 308
+
+  Makok, pagoda near Macao, ii. 395
+
+  Makun, St. Sebastian de, Catholic mission of, near Caltura, Ceylon, i.
+      369, 401
+
+  Malacca Straits, navigation in, ii. 132-135
+
+  Malayta, Island of, Solomon group, ii. 596
+
+  Mamaku (_Cyathea Medullaris_), the tree-fern, specimens in New Zealand,
+      iii. 122
+
+  Mandioca flour (Brazil), i. 175
+
+  Mangatawhiri, river in New Zealand, iii. 164, 165
+
+  Mangrove forest at Puynipet, ii. 563
+
+  Mangrove swamps in the Nicobars, ii. 72
+
+  Manila hemp. _See_ Abaca.
+
+  Manila, stay at and description of, ii. 290-310, 342-349
+
+  Manluena, or exerciser of evil spirits among the Nicobarians, quackery
+      of the, ii. 70
+
+  Manukau hills (New Zealand), excursion to the, iii. 150
+
+  Maoris, or Mauris, aboriginal inhabitants of New Zealand, speculations
+      on their past and future, iii. 97-110
+
+  Maori chiefs, reception of by the governor, iii. 136-138
+
+  ---- king, iii. 135
+
+  ---- meeting in Drury, iii. 136
+
+  ---- poetry, specimens of, iii. 129-132; proverbs, 127-129
+
+  Marine currents, i. 55-57
+
+  Mass meeting of natives of New Zealand, iii. 99-106
+
+  Matavai, native village in Tahiti, iii. 222
+
+  Maury, Commander, U.S.N., his sea-charts, i. 54, 107, 114
+
+  Meadows, J.A.T., government interpreter at Shanghai, ii. 473
+
+  Meal, imports into Brazil from Austria, i. 175
+
+  Medanos, wandering sand-hills in Peru, iii. 350
+
+  Medical school in Lima, iii. 374, 375
+
+  Meester Cornelis Bazaar, near Batavia, ii. 274
+
+  Megabalu, Island of, Nicobar group, ii. 1
+
+  Megamendoeng, pass of, in Java, ii. 211
+
+  Melepilla, town in Chile, iii. 311
+
+  Melori (_Pandanus_), bread of the Nicobarians, ii. 65
+
+  Menu, the Hindoo lawgiver, i. 435
+
+  Meridian of 180 deg., crossing the, iii. 194
+
+  Meri-Meri, New Zealand war-club, iii. 104
+
+  Meroe, island of, Nicobar group, ii. 82
+
+  _Merrimac_, U.S.N., iii, 417
+
+  Messina, return to, iii. 451
+
+  Metelenian, harbour of, in Puynipet island, ii. 553; aboriginal race on
+      Puynipet, 575
+
+  Miau-Tze, a wild race in China, ii. 461
+
+  Miliani, Father, Catholic missionary in Ceylon, i. 370, 402
+
+  Military library in Manila, ii. 342; hospital in Batavia, 187
+
+  Milk, human, sold in China for vaccine, ii. 438 (note)
+
+  Missionaries, Protestant, in Puynipet Island, ii. 563;  Catholic and
+      Protestant, disputes of, in the Society group, iii. 200-205;
+      Catholic, their first appearance in Oceania, 204-209
+
+  Mitchell's Pass, New South Wales. _See_ Broughton's Pass.
+
+  Moa (_Palapteryx ingens_), gigantic extinct bird of New Zealand, iii.
+      191, 192
+
+  Moehrenhout, American consul at Papeete, religious partisanship of, iii.
+      205-207, 219
+
+  Moesta, Dr., astronomer of Santiago de Chile, iii. 300
+
+  Moko, or face-tattooing among the Maories, iii. 110-114
+
+  Monasteries in Lima, iii. 370-372
+
+  Monghata, hill of, in the Nicobar group, ii. 51
+
+  Montial, island of, one of the Nicobar group, ii. 68
+
+  Montigny, M. de, French consul at Shanghai, ii. 467, 512
+
+  Montt, Manuel, President of Chile, iii. 303-305; interview with, 304;
+      his position with respect to the ultramontane party, 305
+
+  Monuments of Chinese female philanthropists, ii. 446
+
+  Moore, Charles, Director of the Botanical Garden in Sydney, iii. 19
+
+  Mooyart, Government assistant in Colombo, i. 407
+
+  Moravian settlements (_see_ also Genaadendal) on Nicobars, ii. 94-96
+
+  Morea, Island of. _See_ Eimeo.
+
+  Moreton Bay, its capabilities for wool growing, iii. 47-49
+
+  Morok (_Casuarius Bennetti_), iii. 14 (note)
+
+  Morrok, bay of, Nicobar group, ii. 44
+
+  Mosse, village on Kar-Nicobar, i. 481
+
+  Motu-Uta, island in Papeete harbour (Tahiti), iii. 198
+
+  Mouat, Dr., of Calcutta, ii. 458
+
+  Mould, Col., chief of engineer corps, New Zealand, iii. 186
+
+  Mount Egmont, or Taranaki Mountain (New Zealand), iii. 189
+
+  Mozambique negroes in Brazil, i. 140, 235
+
+  Muirhead, W., English missionary in China, ii. 418, 452
+
+  Mulberry trees in China, ii. 499
+
+  _Musa textilis_ (wild banana), ii. 167, 324
+
+  Museum of natural history in Sydney, iii. 9; at Santiago de Chile, 301
+
+  Musical instruments of the Nicobarians, ii. 122
+
+
+                                  N
+
+  Nadaud, Dr., physician at Papeete (Tahiti), iii. 214
+
+  Nahlap Islands, near Puynipet Island, ii. 558-560
+
+  Nannekin, chief of Puynipet Island, visit to, ii. 570-573
+
+  National Library, Lima, iii. 375-377; Museum, Lima, 377, 378
+
+  Negro population of Brazil, i. 166
+
+  Negroes, the emancipation of, at St. Thomas successfully carried out,
+      iii. 442, 443
+
+  Negrillos or Negritos del Monte, Manila, ii. 293-295
+
+  Negro-head tobacco of America, ii. 575
+
+  Nelson, province of, in New Zealand, and geological researches therein,
+      iii. 188-192
+
+  Nephrite. _See_ Jade.
+
+  New Caledonia, proposition of Dr. J. D. Lang to found there a German
+      settlement, iii. 15; attempts of the French to annex same, 89, 250
+
+  New Plymouth, province of New Zealand, iii. 188
+
+  New year's eve at the Antipodes, iii. 166-168
+
+  New Zealanders. _See_ Maories.
+
+  Ngara, Lament for, specimen of New Zealand poetry, iii. 131
+
+  Nicobar archipelago, ii. 1-137
+
+  Niemann, Dr. Albert, his discovery of cocain, iii. 406
+
+  Nopal plantations. _See_ Cochineal.
+
+  Norfolk Island. _See_ _Bounty_, mutiny of.
+
+  North Cape, Australia, ii. 627
+
+  North China Herald, ii. 386, 496
+
+  "Norther," description of a, at Valparaiso, iii. 285, 286
+
+  Norzagaray, Don Fernando, Governor-General of the Philippines, ii. 307
+
+  Not, an aboriginal race on Puynipet Island, ii. 575
+
+  _Novara_, her equipment, i. 4-9; at the dry-dock, Sydney, iii. 49;
+      festivities on board in honour of the birth of a crown prince,
+      51-54; return to Trieste, 455; retrospect of her career, 456-460
+
+  Nukahiwa, island of, Marquesas group, iii. 250
+
+  Nunneries in Shanghai for Chinese ladies, ii. 435, 436
+
+
+                                  O
+
+  Observatory at Santiago de Chile, iii. 299
+
+  Odd Fourth, game at cards, introduced by sailors among the natives of
+      Sikayana, ii. 602
+
+  _Oidium Tuckeri_, Madeira, i. 78
+
+  Onehunga, village in Auckland province, iii. 97
+
+  Opium, how prepared, ii. 154-160; annual imports of, into China,
+      518-523; its cost in China, 523
+
+  ---- boats on the Wusung, ii. 411
+
+  ---- smokers, ii. 157-159, 274; number of, in China, 523
+
+  Opposition line between New York and California, iii. 426
+
+  Oraki, a Maori village, iii. 147-149
+
+  Oranges, exportations of, from Tahiti into California, iii. 240
+
+  Otahuha, village near Auckland, iii. 155
+
+  Overbeck, M. Gustav, Prussian Consul at Hong-kong, ii. 378
+
+  Owen, Captain, his visit to the Nicobars, ii. 3
+
+
+                                  P
+
+  Paarl, village of, Cape Colony, i. 219
+
+  Pachacamac, ruins of, iii. 390-395
+
+  Pah, a New Zealand native entrenchment, iii. 117, 155
+
+  Pakin Island, ii. 589
+
+  Pampero (storm from the pampas), i. 119
+
+  Panama, description of, iii. 424-429; "Star and Herald," 428; Railroad,
+      description of, 429-438
+
+  _Panax Ginseng._ _See_ Ginseng.
+
+  Pandanus tree, its exuberance on the Nicobar Islands, ii. 64, 101
+
+  Paomotu Islands, iii. 260
+
+  Paora Tahuera, New Zealand chief, address of, to the Expedition, iii.
+      102
+
+  Papakura, plains of, New Zealand, iii. 170
+
+  Papaoa, village in Tahiti, iii. 237
+
+  Papeete, capital of Tahiti, its position, iii. 197, 210; origin of name
+      and mode of spelling, 210-212; Tahitian orators at, 212-214; its
+      religious and social condition under the French Protectorate,
+      213-220; Governor's ball, 235-240
+
+  Pareu, a Tahitian native garment, iii. 221-231
+
+  Parkes, Harry, English Commissioner at Canton, ii. 385
+
+  Parliament at Tahiti, speeches in, iii. 212
+
+  Patterson, Mr. M., Principal of St. John's College, Auckland, iii. 152
+
+  Patuoni, New Zealand chief, iii. 102
+
+  Paul, St., Island of, described, i. 267-319
+
+  Payta, harbour of, Peru, iii. 420-422
+
+  Pearls, artificial, how made, i. 387, 388
+
+  Pearl-fishery of Ceylon, i. 379-388; of Panama, iii. 429
+
+  Pearl, mother-o', procured at Paomotu and Gambier Islands, iii. 240
+      (note)
+
+  Pedro-talla-galla, highest mountain in Ceylon, i. 412
+
+  Peh-lah, vegetable wax of China, ii. 518
+
+  Pekin, Treaty of Peace concluded at, ii. 388
+
+  Peluqueros, political party in Chile, iii. 306
+
+  Penguins, in St. Paul Island, ludicrous movements of, i. 281-284
+
+  Pettah, the, or Black quarter, Colombo, i. 372
+
+  Pfitzmaier, Dr., an eminent Sinologue, ii. 367, 418, 461; his
+      explanation of Chinese written character, 526
+
+  Philippi, Dr., Professor in College of Santiago, iii. 297
+
+  _Phormium tenax_, New Zealand flax, iii. 145
+
+  Phosphorescent glow in the sea, i. 26
+
+  Physical and geognostic memoranda. _See_ Humboldt.
+
+  Pia, the (_Tacca Pinnatifida_), Tahiti, iii. 244
+
+  Piaco, river, New Zealand, iii. 96
+
+  Pico Ruivo, Madeira, i. 102, 105
+
+  Pih-kwei, Tartar general, ii. 385
+
+  _Piper methysticum._ _See_ Kawa.
+
+  Pisco, town in Peru, iii. 354-357
+
+  Pissis, Aime, geologist of Santiago, iii. 297
+
+  Pitcairn Island, History of. _See_ _Bounty_.
+
+  Pizarro, conqueror of Peru, his corpse exposed to view in the catacombs
+      of Lima, iii. 369;  his portrait in the National Museum, 378
+
+  Point de Galle, Ceylon, i. 359-361
+
+  Point Venus, Tahiti, iii. 222; revolving lighthouse on, 223
+
+  Pola, chief naval arsenal of Austria, iii. 454
+
+  Polyandria, prevalence of, in Ceylon, and cause, i. 365
+
+  Polygamy in China, ii. 371
+
+  Pomare II., King of Tahiti, iii. 198; origin of name, 201; his remark on
+      first beholding a horse, 202
+
+  Pomare, Queen, her letter to Louis Philippe, iii. 208; her civil list,
+      209; her residence, 210; rudeness of French authorities to, 236-238
+
+  Pomperos. _See_ Fire Companies.
+
+  Poncho, the native Chilean garb, iii. 294
+
+  _Porcelaine-craquelee_, ii. 440
+
+  _Porta Aurea_ at Pola, ruins of, iii. 454
+
+  Port Curtis, North Australia, gold-fields of, iii. 48; fate of the
+      gold-seekers there, 49
+
+  Port d'Islay, Peru, iii. 349, 350
+
+  Port Jackson (Sydney Harbour), ii. 627; first settlement there of
+      convicts, iii. 75
+
+  Potatau, chief of the Waikato race, first king of the Maories, iii. 135
+
+  Praya Grande, promenade at Macao, ii. 405
+
+  Pre Catalan, pleasure gardens at Papeete, iii. 219-222, 235
+
+  Public Schools at Shanghai, ii. 443
+
+  Puka-puka, the New Zealand _papyrus_, iii. 147, 148
+
+  Pulicat-Lake, near Madras, i. 475
+
+  Punkah, its uses in India, i. 360
+
+  Purchas, A. G., pastor of Onehunga, iii. 155; first discoverer of the
+      Drury coal-beds, New Zealand, 169, 181
+
+  Puynipet, Island of, visit to, ii. 551-588
+
+
+                                  Q
+
+  Quebradas, caves near Valparaiso, iii. 282, 288
+
+  Quillota, Chile, favourite summer resort for the residents of
+      Valparaiso, iii. 314, 315
+
+  Quilpue, village in Chile, iii. 291; _fete champetre_ there to the
+      Expedition, iii, 292
+
+
+                                  R
+
+  Radhen Adipati Aria Kusuma Ningrat, a Javanese "Regent," ii. 264
+
+  Radhen Adipati Wira Natu Kusuma, a Javanese "Regent," ii. 238, 252
+
+  Radhen Rangga Padma Negara, a Javanese Chief, ii. 214
+
+  Radhen Saleh, a Javanese Artist, ii. 269
+
+  Raffles, Sir T. Stamford, his services to Singapore, ii. 138-140
+
+  Ragusa, iii. 452
+
+  Railroads--Rio, i. 161; Madras, 447-453; Batavia, ii. 204; New South
+      Wales, iii. 20-43; Chile, 308-310; Isthmus of Panama, 429-438
+
+  Raimondi, Professor, at Lima, iii. 374
+
+  Rain-fall, annual amount of, in Gibraltar, i. 36; in Buitenzorg (Java),
+      ii. 208; at the Solomon group, 624
+
+  Rama, the Hindoo Divinity, i. 436
+
+  Rama-Rama, a settlement in the heart of the New Zealand forests, iii.
+      159
+
+  Rame-fibre. See _Boehmeria nivea_.
+
+  Rancho, description of a, iii. 287, 389
+
+  Rangitaki. _See_ Wiremu Kingi.
+
+  Raorao (_Pteris Esculenta_), the New Zealand fern, iii. 121
+
+  Rasamala forest of Java (_Liquid Ambar Altingiana_), ii. 216
+
+  Ratnapoora, Ceylon, i. 406
+
+  Reed, Mr., Minister, plenipotentiary of United States to China, ii. 466
+
+  Rei, settlement on Puynipet Island, ii. 561
+
+  Rerehau-Hemara, of Ngatiapakura, in New Zealand, enters as a seaman on
+      board the _Novara_, iii. 175
+
+  Retrospect of the results of the voyage, iii. 456-460
+
+  Rewarewa, head-dress of Maori woman, iii. 220
+
+  Rhanganatha Swami, Rock Temple, near Madras, i. 466
+
+  Rice-paper in China, ii. 363, 364
+
+  "Rickety Dick," last survivor of the Port Jackson aborigines, iii. 17
+
+  Ried, Dr. Aquinas, Valparaiso, iii. 293
+
+  Ruese, A., Pharmaceutist and Zoologist at St. Thomas, iii. 442
+
+  Roankiddi Harbour, in Puynipet Island, ii. 561
+
+  ---- race, manners and customs of, ii. 570-575
+
+  ---- river on Puynipet Island, ii. 563
+
+  Roberts, J. C., Protestant missionary, and present (late) foreign
+      minister of the Tai-Ping rebels, ii. 528-532
+
+  Robertson, Mr. Brook, English Consul, Shanghai, ii. 472
+
+  Robinson, J. P., Superintendent of Nelson Province, New Zealand, iii.
+      189
+
+  _Roccella tinctoria_, i. 75
+
+  Rochleder, Prof., of Prague, his instructions with reference to
+      investigating the geographical distribution of plants, iii. 20
+
+  Rochouse, Etienne, priest of the Society of Picpus, iii. 203
+
+  Rosen, Pastor, missionary at the Nicobars, his residence at, ii. 12, 51,
+      74
+
+
+                                  S
+
+  Saddle Islands, Chinese Sea, ii. 409
+
+  Sago palm, the, ii. 153
+
+  Saisset, M., Governor of Tahiti, iii. 211, 216, 219, 230, 232-238, 250,
+      253
+
+  Salak Gunung, volcano in Java, ii. 207
+
+  Salangan, swallow on the Nicobars, ii. 58; at Java, 235-237
+
+  Saltpetre, obtained at Iquique, iii. 343
+
+  Sambelong. _See_ Great Nicobar.
+
+  Sampan, or Chinese boat, ii. 413
+
+  Samschoo, a Chinese beverage obtained from rice, ii. 474
+
+  San Cristoval, island of, Solomon group, ii. 596, 624
+
+  San Luis de Apra, harbour in Marianne Archipelago, ii. 549
+
+  San Miguel, village near Manila, ii. 348
+
+  Sandal-wood cutters, ii. 609; atrocities perpetrated by, 610
+
+  Sandy Cape, Australia, ii. 626
+
+  Santiago de Chile, visit to, iii. 295-303
+
+  Sargasso, Mar de, iii. 334.
+
+  Saui, village of the Nicobar Islands, i. 481, ii. 24, 83
+
+  _Saya y Manto_, the native dress of the Lima ladies, decline in the use
+      of, iii. 399
+
+  Scherzer, Dr. von, overland journey from Valparaiso, iii. 337-447
+
+  Schierbrand, Col. von, Batavia, ii. 277
+
+  Schroff, or Chinese factotum. See _Comprador_.
+
+  Schu-king (old Chinese Book), ii. 498
+
+  Sculptures of aboriginal Australians, iii. 34
+
+  Sea-birds, habits of. _See_ Cape Pigeon, Albatross, &c.
+
+  Serpent-breeding in Ceylon, i. 362
+
+  Sesarga, Island of, ii. 624
+
+  Sheep, statistics of, in New South Wales, iii. 62-64; in Australia at
+      large, 64; estimated value of, 64
+
+  Ship's complement, crew, officers, and scientific staff, i. Appendix
+
+  Shrove Tuesday on shipboard, ii. 256
+
+  Sicard, Dr. Adrian, monograph on Chinese sugar-cane, ii. 513
+
+  Sikayana, visit to, ii. 601-622
+
+  Sikkawei, Jesuit mission at, ii. 480-483
+
+  Silk, Chinese, statistics of, ii. 498-450
+
+  Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope, anchorage of, i. 195-197
+
+  ---- Town, description of, i. 197-199
+
+  Simpson's Island, inaccurately assigned position of, ii. 591
+
+  Sinamay (or Sinamarre), Manila cloth, ii. 325 (note)
+
+  "Singing Stones," the, Macao, ii. 406
+
+  Siva, the Indian divinity, i. 435
+
+  Skulls, human, used as drinking cups in Australia, iii. 34; Indian,
+      found near Lima, 393
+
+  Slave population of Brazil, condition of, i. 166-168
+
+  Slavery among the Maories, iii. 116, 117
+
+  Smith, his block-house at Titarango, iii. 150
+
+  Snook-fish (_Thyrsites Atun_), i. 199
+
+  Snow-fall on board the _Novara_, off the Horn, iii. 325
+
+  Sokol, or Enchanted Lake, Manila. See _Laguna encantada_.
+
+  Solomon Islands, ii. 595-597
+
+  _Sorghum Saccharatum_ (Chinese sugar-cane), ii. 467, 512-515, iii. 302
+
+  Southampton, arrival of Dr. v. Scherzer at, iii. 447
+
+  Southern Cross, the, iii. 167
+
+  Southern railroad, Chile, excursion on, iii. 308-310
+
+  Sri-Pada, or Buddha's footstep, Ceylon, i. 413
+
+  St. George's Canal, Nicobar group, ii. 68
+
+  St. John College, Auckland, iii. 152
+
+  St. Thomas, Island of, iii. 441-444
+
+  Stafford, C. W., Under Secretary of State in New Zealand, iii. 97
+
+  Stearine, candle-factory of, at Clarence river, iii. 22
+
+  Stellenbosch, town of Cape Colony, i. 215-219
+
+  Stewart, Capt., of schooner _Louisa_, his narrative of the recent
+      history of the Pitcairn Islanders, iii. 269-276, 338
+
+  Stewart's Islands, ii. 598
+
+  Stores for voyage, list of, i. Appendix
+
+  Straubenzee, Lieut.-General, Commander-in-chief of allied forces in
+      China, ii. 382, 384
+
+  Strzelecki, Count, his ethnographic work on Australia, iii. 32
+
+  Sugar-growing in Tahiti, iii. 224, 225
+
+  Sweet potato, ii. 102; of Tahiti, iii. 245
+
+  Sycee (or sacrificial) paper, China, ii. 433 (note)
+
+  Sydney, arrival at, ii. 627; description of, iii. 7-10
+
+  Syle, Rev. Mr., missionary in China, ii. 460
+
+
+                                  T
+
+  Taboga, Island of, in Bay of Panama, iii. 422
+
+  Taboo, customs of, in New Zealand, iii. 114
+
+  Tacna, city of Peru, iii. 345
+
+  Tael, Chinese currency, ii. 422 (note)
+
+  Tagales, or Tagalogs, aborigines of the Philippines, ii. 292-296
+
+  Tahiti, Island of, iii. 196-251; first efforts of Protestant
+      missionaries in the Society Islands, 200-202; placed under French
+      protectorate, 208; present political condition, 239, 240, 248-251;
+      physical configuration of the island, 241; climate, 241; statistics
+      of value of commerce, 248
+
+  Tahitian women, their appearance and morals, iii. 219-221
+
+  Taiarapu, peninsula of Tahiti, iii. 227
+
+  Tai-ping rebels, their history, ii. 523-537; assume a political
+      organization, 527; their doctrines, 529-533; latest intelligence
+      respecting, 534-537
+
+  Takapuna district, New Zealand, iii. 100
+
+  Taki, Chinese merchant, Shanghai, banquet given by, ii. 485-494
+
+  Tallow-tree (_Stillingia Sebifera_) of China, ii. 517
+
+  Tangkuban Prahu, Javanese volcano, ii. 248-252
+
+  Tanka-boat, Macao, ii. 393, 394, 406
+
+  Taouist sect, China, ii. 435; their convents, 436
+
+  Taranaki (Mount Egmont), New Zealand, iii. 189; province and tribe,
+      189-191
+
+  Taro (_Caladium esculentum_), Puynipet Island, ii. 568
+
+  Tattooing, how performed among the Maories, iii. 110-114; on Puynipet,
+      ii. 572-574
+
+  Tau-Tai, or Governor of Shanghai, ii. 472; interview with him, 472-476
+
+  Tawa, the (_Laurus Tawa_), its berries used by the Maories for the
+      preparation of a beverage, iii. 122
+
+  Te-Huhu, death-song of, specimen of New Zealand dirges, iii. 130
+
+  Te Teira, New Zealand native, the purchase of whose land led to the late
+      wars, iii. 132
+
+  Tea, statistics of, ii. 504-511
+
+  Teijsman, J. E., Director of Botanical Garden of Buitenzorg, ii. 205
+
+  Telegraph, electric, its progress in Madras, i. 450; in Batavia, ii.
+      204; in Australia, iii. 43
+
+  Temple of the Goddess of the Sea, Shanghai. _See_ Goddess of the Sea.
+
+  Tenakoe, the New Zealand mode of salutation, iii. 149
+
+  Teressa, one of the Nicobar group, ii. 61
+
+  _Terra Japonica._ See _Acacia Catechu_.
+
+  Tetakaka valley, gold-fields of, New Zealand, iii. 190
+
+  _Tetraodon Honkenyi_ (sea-devil), fatal effects of eating, i. 199, 200
+
+  Theatrical representations in China, ii. 486-489
+
+  Thomson, Dr. A., anthropometrical and dynamical experiments with New
+      Zealand natives, and their results, iii. 123-125
+
+  Ti-plant (_Cordyline Australis_) of Tahiti, an intoxicant beverage
+      prepared from, iii. 245
+
+  Tien-tsin, treaty of, considered, ii. 386
+
+  Tiffin, the Indian lunch, i. 368
+
+  Tigers, prevalence of, at Singapore, ii. 143
+
+  Til-tree (_Oreodaphne f[oe]tens_), i. 65
+
+  Tiles (Chinese weights), ii. 156
+
+  Tillangschong, one of the Nicobar group, ii. 43, 45, 84
+
+  Tinkal. See _Borax_.
+
+  Tjiangoer, town in Java, ii. 235
+
+  Tjiburum, river in Java, ii. 216
+
+  Tjipodas, cinchona plantation at, in Java, ii. 227-232
+
+  Tjisokan, village in Java, ii. 237
+
+  Tjitarum, river in Java, ii. 238
+
+  Toe-toe, species of New Zealand grass, iii. 147
+
+  Tombs, Island of Puynipet, supposed, ii. 584
+
+  Tom Weiry, a Sydney chief, iii. 59
+
+  Tong-Kadu, Catholic cathedral near Shanghai, ii. 445, 478
+
+  Tow-boats, expense of, at Hong-kong, ii. 408; at Shanghai, 537
+
+  Track, one of the Nicobar group, ii. 62
+
+  Trepang (or _Biche de Mar_), different species of, ii. 619-622;
+      preparation for Chinese market, 621
+
+  Treis, Island of, Nicobar group, ii. 62
+
+  Trieste, departure from, i. 12; return to, iii. 455
+
+  Tschandu. _See_ Opium.
+
+  Tscharul Mugra (one of the _Flacourtiaceae_), an antidote to leprosy,
+      used in China, ii. 458
+
+  Tschaura, or Chowra, Island of, Nicobar group, ii. 61, 84
+
+  Tschinapatnam, Indian village of, i. 429
+
+  Tschokoits, aboriginal race of Puynipet, ii. 575
+
+  Tsetse-fly, ravages of, in Cape Colony, i. 252-254
+
+  Tuakan, Maori village, iii. 166; New Year's night at, 167
+
+  Tubuai, Island of, in Rorutu Archipelago, iii. 196
+
+  Tupa-kihi (_Coriaria sarmentosa_) berries used for brewing purposes in
+      New Zealand, iii. 111
+
+  Turnour, George, translations from Cingalese, i. 395
+
+  Typhoon, description of a, ii. 539-549
+
+
+                                  U
+
+  Ulala Bay, Nicobar Islands, ii. 60, 94
+
+  Unger, Professor F., his theory as to the probable age of Australia,
+      iii. 70, 71
+
+  University of Sydney, iii. 8
+
+  ---- Santiago de Chile, iii. 298, 299
+
+  Upa-Upa, licentious dance of Tahitian women, iii. 219
+
+  Urdaneta, Friar A., Prior of the Augustines of Manila, ii. 306
+
+  Urmeneta, Don Jeronimo, foreign minister of Chile, iii. 304
+
+
+                                  V
+
+  Vahara Swami, Temple of, Madras, i. 470
+
+  Valdivia, German colony at, iii. 316
+
+  Valparaiso, iii. 280-291
+
+  Vanilla plantations in Java, ii. 205
+
+  Vapour-baths, Shanghai, ii. 419
+
+  Vegetable wax. _See_ Peh-lah.
+
+  Vellore, visit to, and fort, i. 447-453
+
+  _Venus_, French frigate, visits Tahiti, iii. 208
+
+  _Vert chinois._ _See_ Green Indigo.
+
+  Victoria, Hong-kong, ii. 355-375
+
+  Vigil, Francisco de Paula, director of National Library, Lima, iii. 375;
+      his views respecting the Papacy, 376
+
+  Vine disease in Madeira, particulars of the, i. 75-81
+
+  Vishnu, Indian Divinity, i. 429
+
+  Visscher van Gaasbeek, assistant resident, Java, ii. 239, 252
+
+  Vinhatico (_Persea indica_), at Madeira, i. 65
+
+  _Visanili Katail_ (poison oil), Ceylon, i. 401
+
+  Vriese, de, director of Botanical Garden, Leyden, his travels in Java,
+      ii. 242
+
+  Vrij, chemist, resident in Java, ii. 246-248
+
+
+                                  W
+
+  War in Chile, iii. 305, 306
+
+  Wax-berry, shrub, Cape Colony, i. 205
+
+  Wagner, Dr. Moritz, his contour map of Isthmus of Panama, iii. 434
+
+  Waiiria, Lake of, Tahiti, iii. 228
+
+  Waikato River, New Zealand, iii. 158, 174, 182-184
+
+  Wakka, New Zealand canoe, iii. 157
+
+  Walloby (Kangaroo rat), Australia, iii. 36
+
+  Wall reefs, ii. 556-558
+
+  Wandering sand-hills. See _Medanos_.
+
+  Wangs, or Kings of the Tai-pings, ii. 535-537
+
+  Waves, mode of measuring their height, i. 191; height in Chinese sea,
+      ii. 544
+
+  Weapons of the Nicobar aborigines, ii. 121
+
+  Weddahs, wild native race of Ceylon, i. 358
+
+  Wellington Province, New Zealand, iii. 188
+
+  Whale fishery off St. Paul Island, i. 288-291, 319-321; off Puynipet,
+      ii. 554, 579; off Tahiti, iii. 248
+
+  Whampoa, ship purveyor, ii. 168-173
+
+  Whari, or New Zealand hut, iii. 161-163
+
+  White colonists, Island of Puynipet, ii. 561
+
+  Whittle's Rock, Simon's Bay, Cape Colony, i. 259
+
+  Wiener, G., Austrian Consul at Hong-kong, ii. 378
+
+  Wild Banana. See _Musa Textilis_.
+
+  Will's Harbour. _See_ Papeete.
+
+  Williamson, J., Superintendent of Auckland Province, iii. 177
+
+  Wine cultivation of Madeira, i. 76-79; of Cape Colony, 255, 256; of
+      Australia, iii. 21-24
+
+  Winnes, Dr. Ph., Missionary at Hong-kong, ii. 368
+
+  Wiremu Kingi, chief of New Zealand insurgents, iii. 132
+
+  Wong-Fun, Physician in Macao, ii. 406
+
+  Worcester, Cape Colony, its charming site, i. 223-225
+
+  Wuang-po, canal of, ii. 479
+
+  Wulongong, harbour of, New South Wales, iii. 29; rencontre with natives,
+      30; Walloby hunt, 36; nocturnal adventures among the hills of, 40-42
+
+  Wusung River, at Shanghai, ii. 410-414, 479
+
+
+                                  Y
+
+  Yak-tien, Chinese drug stone, ii. 437
+
+  Yam, ii. 102; at Tahiti, iii. 245
+
+  Yang-tse-Kiang, arrival off, ii. 410; navigation of, 410-412
+
+  Yaws (_Framb[oe]sia_), prevalence of, in Puynipet Island, ii. 574
+
+  Yeh, late Governor of Canton, ii. 383; his cruelty to the Tai-pings, 526
+
+  Yellow fever, i. 158, iii. 372
+
+  Yo-stone. _See_ Nephrite.
+
+
+                                  Z
+
+   Zodiacal light, i. 480
+
+
+
+
+                                ERRATA.
+
+
+                                VOL. I.
+
+  PAGE LINE
+
+  vii. 1 from bottom, _for_ Hardinger _read_ Haidinger
+
+  viii. 3 from bottom, _for_ minerals _read_ mammalia
+
+  xxvi. 6 from bottom, _for_ Saugar _read_ Sangar
+
+  xxvii. 10 from bottom, _for_ Tama _read_ Jama
+
+  ----9 from bottom, _for_ Saka _read_ Saku
+
+  xxix. 12 from top, _for_ sheet of water _read_ pool of lava
+
+  xxx. 10 from bottom, _for_ isolated Vaihu of the _read_ isolated
+      Vaihu _or_ Easter Island
+
+  xxxi. 10 from bottom, _for_ schists of lava _read_ sheets _or_
+      flows of lava
+
+  xxxv. 17 from top, _for_ internally of a matted texture _read_
+      within the holes of a melted glassy surface
+
+  ----2 from bottom, _for_ Gacal _read_ Jakal
+
+  xxxvi. last line, _for_ Rosotlan _read_ Bosotlan
+
+  xxxvii. 6 from bottom, _for_ Posto de Quindici _read_ Passo de
+      Quindiu
+
+  xxxviii. 9 from bottom, _for_ Ausango _read_ Ansango
+
+  xxxviii. 5 from bottom, _for_ unlike _read_ like
+
+  ----last line, _for_ Pullo _read_ Puela
+
+  xxxix. 8 from bottom, _for_ veins _read_ grains
+
+  ----8 from bottom, _for_ Weise _read_ Wisse
+
+  ----6 from bottom, _for_ trachytes of Hungary _read_ trachytes
+      out of Hungary
+
+  xlii. 5 from top, _for_ 18 deg. 15' _read_ 18 deg. 25'
+
+  xliii. 12 from top, _for_ Exogira contoni _read_ Exogyra Couloni
+
+  xliv. 1 from top, or Yntales _has to be omitted entirely_
+
+  ----5 from top, _for_ La Cruz _read_ La Cruz Olmedella
+
+  1. 2 from top, _for_ crooked _read_ oblique
+
+  115 6 from bottom, _for_ 30 deg. 50' _read_ 33 deg. 50'
+
+  474 _for_ prediluvian period _read_ period (before the flood
+      extended so far)
+
+
+                               VOL. II.
+
+  PAGE
+
+  42 _for_ mania _read_ maina bird (Graculus)
+
+  102 _for_ Jakopha _read_ Jatropha
+
+  135 _for_ lovely _read_ lonely
+
+  143 _for_ Turiah _read_ Bukit Timah
+
+  156 _for_ Tschni-tschni _read_ Tschin-tschin
+
+  163 _for_ Carl _read_ Windsor Earl
+
+  219 _for_ usnioides _read_ usneoides
+
+  242 _for_ Phlippan _read_ Phlippau
+
+  262 _for_ room _read_ court yard
+
+  296 _for_ Tbanac _read_ Ybanac
+
+  319 _for_ Bisayx _read_ Bisaya
+
+  343 _for_ aficimado _read_ aficiado
+
+  350 _for_ Girandier _read_ Giraudier
+
+  355 _for_ Praya Granite _read_ Praya Grande
+
+  355 _for_ To-stone _read_ Yo-stone
+
+  364 _for_ Funan _read_ Yunan
+
+  366 _read_ preparing Indian-ink from
+
+  394 _for_ Russian _read_ Prussian
+
+  401 _for_ "lines" _read_ "lions"
+
+  411 _for_ become involved _read_ escaped being involved
+
+  416 _for_ Main-tze _read_ Mian-tze
+
+  416 _for_ Long-Sah _read_ Long-Fah
+
+  471 _for_ been _read_ had brought him
+
+  482 _for_ medical _read_ philosophical
+
+  498 _for_ Shoo-kiu _read_ Shoo-kin
+
+  508 _for_ invisible _read_ illimitable
+
+  516 _for_ China _read_ India
+
+  518 _for_ limitata _read_ limbata
+
+  547 _for_ Dkinawasmia _read_ Dkinawasima
+
+  553 _for_ Metetenai _read_ Metelenian
+
+  575 _for_ Metelemia _read_ Metelenian
+
+  575 _for_ Awnaks _read_ Awuaks
+
+  585 _for_ Nalan _read_ Ualan
+
+  596 _for_ Senville _read_ Surville
+
+
+                              VOL. III.
+
+  PAGE LINE
+
+  2 1 from bottom, _for_ Cotton _read_ Cotta
+
+  29 8 from bottom, _for_ son-in-law _read_ brother-in-law
+
+  33 9 from top, _for_ Augos _read_ Angas
+
+  43 14 from top, _for_ stone-fields _read_ coal-fields
+
+  58 14 from top, _for_ Cool-river _read_ Cook-river
+
+  177 8 from bottom, _for_ England _read_ island
+
+  186 11 from bottom, _for_ Thorold _read_ Mould
+
+  191 _for_ Pakaivau _read_ Pakawau
+
+  232 11 from bottom, _for_ reception-room _read_ reception-court
+
+  243 1 from top, _for_ (pomegranates) _read_ (carica papayi)
+
+  244 3 from bottom, _for_ Tacea _read_ Tacca
+
+  245 4 from bottom, _for_ spandias _read_ spondias
+
+  279 5 from top, _for_ 118 _read_ 48 days
+
+  299 10 from bottom, _for_ Sillis _read_ Gillis
+
+  308 7 from bottom, _for_ Ferro Canil _read_ Carril
+
+  338 16 from bottom, _for_ the _read_ a
+
+  351 16 from bottom, _for_ gama _read_ garua
+
+  389 19 from bottom, _for_ Accordingly our _read_ Formerly the
+
+  407 6 from bottom, _for_ Cocani _read_ Cocain
+
+  ----7, 11, & 21--_for_ Cocani _read_ Cocain
+
+  ----3, 8, & 13 from top, _for_ Cocani _read_ Cocain
+
+  408 3, 6, & 21 from bottom, _for_ cocani _read_ cocain
+
+  410 8 from top, _for_ Hasakael _read_ Hasskarl
+
+  417 12 from bottom, _for_ centner _read_ quintal
+
+  418 10 from top, _for_ Huanchoco _read_ Huanchaco
+
+  ----5 from bottom, _for_ this hitherto _read_ a hitherto
+
+  419 3 & 10 from top, _for_ Lambajique _read_ Lambajeque
+
+  ----2 from bottom, _for_ San Salvadore _read_ San Salvador
+
+  420 9 from top, _for_ Criomys _read_ Eriomys
+
+  ----6 from bottom, _for_ Chirar _read_ Chirar
+
+  422 12 from top, _read_ it rose from 65 deg. to 76 deg. Fahr.
+
+  ----11 from bottom, _for_ Taboquille _read_ Taboquilla
+
+  428 11 from top, _for_ Le Breton _read_ Lebreton
+
+  430 8 from top, _for_ L200,000 to L1,300,000 _read_ L200,000 to
+      L300,000
+
+  ----9 from bottom, _for_ an hour or two _read_ a few hours
+
+  435 11 from bottom, _for_ facts _read_ specimens
+
+  444 5 from bottom, _for_ however _read_ moreover
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+                         List Of Corrections
+
+
+Transcriber's Note: Blank pages have been deleted. All of the footnotes
+have been moved. Some illustrations may have been moved. We have rendered
+consistent on a per-word-pair basis the hyphenation or spacing of such
+pairs when repeated in the same grammatical context. We have corrected
+inconsistencies in the application of accents to the same word when
+repeated in the same context. Paragraph formatting has been made
+consistent. The publisher's inadvertent omissions of important punctuation
+have been corrected. Some wide tables have been re-formatted to narrower
+equivalents with some words replaced with commonly known abbreviations and
+possibly a key. Some ditto marks have been replaced with the words
+represented.
+
+Other detected publisher's errors were corrected as listed below. The page
+number is that of the source publication. An asterisk after the page
+number indicates that the correction was specified by the publisher.
+
+  Page          Correction
+
+    2 * Political Economy. Stuttgart, 1840. (J. C. Cotton[Cotta].)
+   24   being much more extensively dealt in in[delete 2nd in] European
+   29 * Mr. Edward Hill, a son-in-law[brother-in-law] of
+   32   according to all unbiassed[unbiased] observers,
+   33 * among the natives of the north. M. Augos[Angas],
+   43 * Hunter River and the Newcastle stone-fields[coal-fields],
+   58 * thence over the Cool[Cook]-River
+   96   by the numerous streams and creaks[creeks]
+  111 * fruit of Tupa-kihi (_Coriaria Samentosa[Sarmentosa]_).
+  120   settlements adjoining Fovean's[Foveau]Straits
+  172   Commodore Von Wuellerstorff[Wuellerstorf] consented on condition
+  177 * this little-explored England[island], we avail
+  186 * put at my disposal by Colonel Thorold[Mould]
+  191 * Pakaivau[Pakawau] give ground for anticipating that
+  231   had already made the the[del 2nd the] circuit
+  231 * In the reception-room[court] a perfect mountain
+  241 * Pusenaura, Papara, Papuriri[Papeuriri],
+  243 * (pine-apples), papayas (pomegranates?)[(carica papayi)],
+  244 * VI. Pia (_Tacea[Tacca] pinnatifida_),
+  245 * the _pandanus_ fruit, the _spandias[spondias] dulcis_
+  263   good officers[offices] of the British Government
+  269   details repecting[respecting] them.
+  279 * in 118[48] days, and although
+  282   nothing recals[recalls] that singular national aboriginal type,
+  293   For this purpose Commodore von Wuellerstoff[Wuellerstorf]
+  299 * traveller Sillis[Gillis], who for many years
+  300   lodged, and clothed gratuituously[gratuitously],
+  306   the downfal[downfall] of the existing Government
+  308 * (Ferro Canil[Carril] del Sur)
+  321   unhappy case. Commodore Wuellerstorff[Wuellerstorf],
+  338 * the[a] little boat made its appearance
+  351 * a fine penetrating dew (_gama[garua]_),
+  372   "_Los ninos[ninos] se crian en la Calle!_"
+  380   Manuel Fuentes' valuable "Estadestica[Estadistica] General de Lima
+  389 * Accordingly our[Formerly the] ride to Chorillos,
+  395   we passed the beautifully situate[situated] village
+  407 * in such cases, the name Cocani[Cocain]
+  407 * Cocani[Cocain] is precipitated in colourless inodorous
+  407 * Cocani[Cocain] completely neutralizes acids,
+  407 * nature and properties of cocani[cocain]. M. Woehler,
+  410 * respecting which Hasakael[Hasskarl] has observed
+  417 * amount to from 8 to 10 dollars per centner[quintal].
+  418 * reached Huanchoco[Huanchaco], the principal
+  418 * me a small flask of this[a] hitherto little-known
+  419 * de Lambajique[Lambajeque] in the department of Chola.
+  419 * miles north of Lambajique[Lambajeque] lies the Indian
+  419 * Central American State of San Salvadore[Salvador]
+  420 * chinchilla fur (_Criomys[Eriomys] Chinchilla_),
+  420 * city from the river Chir[=a]r[Chirar],
+  422 * it was as high as[it rose from] 65 deg. to 70 deg.[76 deg.] Fahr.
+  422 * with the adjacent islet of Taboquille[Taboquilla],
+  428 * By Dr. Le Breton[Lebreton], a French physician
+  430 * the Company at from L200,000 to L1,300,000[L300,000].
+  430 * hour or two[a few hours] a journey which often occupied
+  435 * geological and botanical facts[specimens]
+  444 * However[Moreover], the impression made by the
+  454   more extensive mementoes[mementos] of Roman architecture
+  496   utility of pushing on [to] the depot
+  519   Algesiras[Algeziras], i. 40
+  522   Campbeltown[Cambelton], New South Wales, excursion to
+  524   Curare, the Indian prison[poison],
+  524   Corroborry[Coroborry], dance of the Australian aborigines,
+  529   Joss-ticks[Joss-sticks], ii. 341
+  529   Illawarra[Illawara] District, New South Wales,
+  532   Metelenien[Metelenian], harbour of, in Puynipet island,
+  533   Director of the Botannical[Botanical] Garden
+  535   Papacura[Papakura], plains of, New Zealand, iii. 170
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of the Circumnavigation of
+the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume III, by Karl Ritter von Scherzer
+
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