diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:10:14 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:10:14 -0700 |
| commit | f59fe3fe29b9cb1bd93f1d895157a92e95c33b7d (patch) | |
| tree | 2603aa068788c8f9d5615d29c1b7cfb8237d8cf3 /38404.txt | |
Diffstat (limited to '38404.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 38404.txt | 19063 |
1 files changed, 19063 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/38404.txt b/38404.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3470b45 --- /dev/null +++ b/38404.txt @@ -0,0 +1,19063 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Journey from Prince of Wales's Fort in +Hudson's Bay to the Northern Ocean in the Years 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772, by Samuel Hearne + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Journey from Prince of Wales's Fort in Hudson's Bay to the Northern Ocean in the Years 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 + New Edition with Introduction, Notes, and Illustrations + +Author: Samuel Hearne + +Annotator: J. B. Tyrrell + +Release Date: December 24, 2011 [EBook #38404] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY FROM PRINCE OF *** + + + + +Produced by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + + THE PUBLICATIONS OF + THE CHAMPLAIN + SOCIETY + VI + + + + + THE + PUBLICATIONS OF + THE CHAMPLAIN + SOCIETY + + HEARNE: + + A JOURNEY FROM PRINCE OF + WALES'S FORT IN HUDSON'S BAY + TO THE NORTHERN OCEAN + + [Illustration] + + TORONTO + THE CHAMPLAIN SOCIETY + + + + + _Five Hundred and Twenty Copies of + this Volume have been printed. Twenty + are reserved for Editorial purposes. + The remaining Five Hundred are + supplied only to Members of the + Society and to Subscribing Libraries. + + This copy is No. 229_ + + + + + A JOURNEY + FROM PRINCE OF WALES'S + FORT IN HUDSON'S BAY TO + THE NORTHERN OCEAN + In the Years 1769, 1770, 1771, and 1772 + + BY + SAMUEL HEARNE + + NEW EDITION + WITH INTRODUCTION, NOTES, AND ILLUSTRATIONS, BY + J. B. TYRRELL, M.A. + + TORONTO + THE CHAMPLAIN SOCIETY + 1911 + + + + + _All rights reserved._ + + + + + PREFACE + + BY SIR EDMUND WALKER + _President of the Champlain Society_ + + +When the Champlain Society was first organised in 1905 one of the works +on its list of proposed publications was the _Journal_ of Samuel Hearne. +This book, written with great literary charm, is the first account +preserved to us of an attempt to explore the interior of far-northern +Canada from a base on Hudson Bay. The natives had brought to Fort Prince +of Wales glowing reports of a vast store of copper at the mouth of a +river which flowed into the Arctic Ocean. An attempt to find it was +inevitable. Twice Hearne failed, but his third effort succeeded and, +after a laborious journey, he reached the mouth of the Coppermine River. +Soon after he was promoted to command at Fort Prince of Wales, now +Churchill, on Hudson Bay. France had joined Britain's revolted colonies +in their war on the mother land, and one day, in 1782, a French +squadron, under the well-known seaman, La Perouse, dropped anchor before +Fort Prince of Wales. Hearne, mightier with the pen than with the sword, +surrendered meekly enough in spite of his massive walls from thirty to +forty feet thick. Thus ingloriously he dies out of history. + +Hearne's _Journal_, published after his early death, has become a rather +rare book. Besides the narrative of what he did, it contains copious +notes on the natural history of the region which he was the first white +man to make known. A new edition has long been needed. Yet to secure +competent editing was a difficult task, since few knew the remote +country which Hearne explored. It may be regarded as fortunate that the +new edition has been delayed, for only now are we able to present +Hearne's story with the annotations necessary to give it the last +possible elucidation. The needed knowledge is supplied by Mr. J. B. +Tyrrell and Mr. E. A. Preble, two writers pre-eminently suited for their +task by journeys in the regions described by Hearne, on parts of which +so few white men have set eyes. + +Mr. J. B. Tyrrell began his work of exploring in North Western Canada in +1883, and during the ensuing fifteen years he made many important +additions to our knowledge of the geology and geography of what is still +the least known part of Canada. In 1893, accompanied by his brother, Mr. +J. W. Tyrrell, as his assistant, he traversed the so-called Barren +Grounds from Lake Athabasca eastward to Chesterfield Inlet, and from +there his party paddled in canoes down the west shore of Hudson Bay to +Fort Churchill. Of the 3200 miles thus traversed, 1650 were previously +unsurveyed and unmapped. From Fort Churchill Mr. Tyrrell walked eight or +nine hundred miles on snowshoes to the southern end of Lake Winnipeg. In +1894 he again crossed the Barren Grounds, this time travelling from the +north end of Reindeer Lake to a point on Hudson Bay, about 200 miles +south-west of Chesterfield Inlet. Thence he went to Churchill as before +in canoes along the open coast. From Churchill Mr. Tyrrell again, but by +another route, walked on showshoes to the southern end of Lake Winnipeg. +On this journey he travelled about 2900 miles, of which 1750 were by +canoe and 750 on snowshoes. Almost the whole journey was through +previously unexplored country. For the geographical work done in these +two years he was awarded the Back Premium by the Royal Geographical +Society of London. + +In response to an enquiry whether any other white man has visited the +regions described by Hearne, Mr. Tyrrell writes:-- + + "I happen to be the only one since Hearne who has conducted + explorations in the country lying between Fort Churchill and the + eastern end of Great Slave Lake and south of latitude 63 deg. N. + Except Hearne, I and those who accompanied and assisted me are + the only white men who have crossed that great stretch of + country, north of a line between the mouth of the Churchill + River and Lake Athabasca and a line between the east end of + Great Slave Lake and Chesterfield Inlet. Absolutely the only + information that I had about the region when I visited it, other + than what I had secured in conversation with Indians, was + contained in Hearne's book. My last journey was made sixteen + years ago, and no white man has since travelled across that + country. With the building of the railroad to Fort Churchill, it + will doubtless soon be visited. Since I made a survey of + Chesterfield Inlet and its vicinity, my brother, Mr. J. W. + Tyrrell, has crossed from the east end of Great Slave Lake by + the Hanbury River to Chesterfield Inlet, making a survey as he + went, and the Royal North West Mounted Police have sent parties + from the Mackenzie River to Hudson Bay along this route, using + my brother's maps as their guide. It is hardly necessary to say + that a magnificent field for exploration is still left in that + far northern country." + +So much as to Mr. Tyrrell's work. For the notes explaining Hearne's many +observations on natural history we are indebted to Mr. E. A. Preble of +Washington. Mr. Preble spent a summer on the west shore of Hudson Bay +north of Fort Churchill. He also spent the summers of 1901 and 1903, the +winter of 1903-4, and the summers of 1904 and 1907 on the Athabasca and +Mackenzie Rivers and on the Barren Grounds north of Great Slave Lake. +This most important study of the fauna of Northern Canada was undertaken +by Mr. Preble on behalf of the Biological Survey of the United States +Department of Agriculture. The various reports and other publications +arising from the journeys of Mr. Tyrrell and the investigations of Mr. +Preble are mentioned in a bibliographical note at the end of this +volume. + +This is the first work relating to the West to be published by the +Champlain Society. It has already begun an extensive list of the works +of early writers on Eastern Canada. The year 1911 will, it is hoped, see +the completion of the three volumes of Lescarbot's _History of New +France_, now for the first time entirely translated into English. In +this as in all other publications of the Society the original text is +given with the translation. Nicolas Denys was the first writer to +describe in detail the coasts of eastern Canada, and the Society has +republished his great book, adequately translated and with copious +notes. It has done the same with Le Clercq's account of Gaspe and its +interesting natives. The writings of Champlain, entirely translated into +English for the first time, will soon appear in six volumes. The regions +lying west of Lake Superior have a history as interesting, but the +material is scattered. Hearne's _Journal_ makes a good beginning. In +preparation are the _Journals_ of La Verendrye, the first white man to +come in sight of the Rocky Mountains by an overland route. His writings +will now for the first time be translated into English. The Society is +sparing no pains to provide volumes bearing on the Hudson's Bay Company. +Much further work on examining and classifying the papers of the Company +will, however, be necessary before anything final can be done. Meanwhile +members will enjoy the pleasant narrative of Hearne edited by the +competent observers whose services the Society has had the good fortune +to secure. + +TORONTO, _January 1911_. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + PREFACE vii + + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xiii + + EDITOR'S INTRODUCTION 1 + + AUTHOR'S PREFACE 29 + + AUTHOR'S CONTENTS 33 + + AUTHOR'S INTRODUCTION 41 + + A JOURNEY TO THE NORTHERN OCEAN 61 + + BIBLIOGRAPHY 419 + + INDEX 427 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + +IN ORIGINAL VOLUME + + A NORTH-WEST VIEW OF PRINCE OF WALES'S + FORT IN HUDSON'S BAY, NORTH AMERICA _To face p._ 61 + + INDIAN IMPLEMENTS " 134 + + A WINTER VIEW IN ATHAPUSCOW LAKE " 232 + + INDIAN IMPLEMENTS " 310 + + A MAP EXHIBITING MR. HEARNE'S TRACKS + IN HIS TWO JOURNIES FOR THE DISCOVERY + OF THE COPPER MINE RIVER + IN THE YEARS 1770, 1771, AND 1772, UNDER + THE DIRECTION OF THE HUDSON'S BAY + COMPANY _At end_ + + PLAN OF THE COPPER MINE RIVER " + + PLAN OF ALBANY RIVER IN HUDSON'S BAY " + + PLAN OF MOOS RIVER IN HUDSON'S BAY " + + PLAN OF SLUDE RIVER " + + +ADDITIONS IN PRESENT VOLUME + + + MAP OF PART OF NORTHERN CANADA AS + AT PRESENT KNOWN _At end_ + Drawn on the same projection and scale as + Hearne's general Map + + MAP OF COPPERMINE RIVER _At end_ + As surveyed by Sir John Franklin in 1821. + From "Franklin's First Journey," + London, 1823. + + MAP OF PART OF NORTH AMERICA _To face p._ 18 + Showing Hearne's course as first + published. From "Cook's Third + Voyage," 1784. + + MAP OF PART OF NORTH AMERICA, 1787 " 18 + From Supplement to "Pennant's + Arctic Zoology." + + PLAN OF FORT PRINCE OF WALES AS IT + APPEARED IN 1894. By J. B. TYRRELL _page_ 22 + + MAP OF YATH-KYED LAKE AND PART OF + KAZAN (CATHAWHACHAGA) RIVER. By + J. B. TYRRELL _To face p._ 86 + + MAP OF DUBAWNT LAKE AND PART OF + DUBAWNT RIVER. By J. B. AND J. W. TYRRELL " 90 + + HEARNE'S NAME ON ROCK AT CHURCHILL " 4 + + SAMUEL HEARNE " 25 + + DUBAWNT LAKE " 96 + + DUBAWNT RIVER WHERE HEARNE CROSSED IT " 96 + + A SOUTH-WEST VIEW OF PRINCE OF WALES'S FORT " 106 + + WHOLDIAH LAKE " 120 + + GROVE OF SPRUCE WITHIN BARREN LANDS " 120 + + ARTILLERY LAKE, LAST WOODS " 138 + + ARTILLERY LAKE " 138 + + BLOODY FALLS, COPPERMINE RIVER " 178 + From "Franklin's First Journey," p. 360. + + COPPER IMPLEMENTS FROM COPPERMINE RIVER " 178 + + HERD OF CARIBOU ON BARREN LANDS NEAR + DUBAWNT RIVER _To face p._ 234 + + DRYING CARIBOU MEAT " 234 + + WOODS OF SPRUCE AND LARCH, SOUTH-WEST + OF CHURCHILL, IN WINTER " 288 + + STONY BARREN LANDS IN SUMMER " 288 + + CHIPEWYAN INDIANS FROM KAZAN RIVER " 296 + + VALLEY OF THLEWIAZA RIVER " 296 + + FORT PRINCE OF WALES, GATE " 328 + + FORT PRINCE OF WALES, INTERIOR " 328 + + + + +EDITOR'S INTRODUCTION + + +Samuel Hearne, the author of the book here republished, is one of the +most interesting characters to be met with in the annals of exploration +in North America. When a young man, only twenty-four years old, he was +sent on foot to explore the interior of a great continent. Though he +knew nothing of mines or minerals, he, like many a man similarly +equipped since his day, was to report on a great mining property. +Naturally his report on the "mine" of copper is of little value, but his +account of Northern Canada and of the life of the natives who inhabited +it is the first published detailed description of any portion of the +interior of Western Canada. Very few men of his age accomplished so +much, and fewer still have published such admirable narratives of their +enterprises. + +All that we know of Hearne's early life is contained in an obituary +notice which appeared in the _European Magazine and London Review_ for +June 1797, entitled "Some Account of the late Mr. Samuel Hearne, Author +of 'A Journey from Prince of Wales Fort, in Hudson's Bay, to the +Northern Ocean, undertaken by order of the Hudson's Bay Company for the +discovery of Copper Mines, a North-West Passage, &c., in the years 1769, +1770, 1771, and 1772.'" + + "Mr. Samuel Hearne was born in the year 1745. He was the son of + Mr. Hearne, Secretary to the Waterworks, London Bridge, a very + sensible man, and of a respectable family in Somersetshire; he + died of fever in his 40th year, and left Mrs. Hearne with this + son, then but three years of age, and a daughter two years + older. Mrs. Hearne, finding her income too small to admit her + living in town as she had been accustomed to, retired to + Bimmester, in Dorsetshire (her native place), where she lived as + a gentlewoman, and was much respected. It was her wish to give + her children as good an education as the place afforded, and + accordingly [she] sent her son to school at a very early period, + but his dislike to reading and writing was so great that he made + very little progress in either. His masters, indeed, spared + neither threats nor persuasion to induce him to learn, but their + arguments were thrown away on one who seemed predetermined never + to become a learned man; he had, however, a very quick + apprehension, and, in his childish sports, showed unusual + activity and ingenuity; he was particularly fond of drawing, and + though he never had the least instruction in the art, copied + with great delicacy and correctness even from nature. Mrs. + Hearne's friends, finding her son had no taste for study, + advised her fixing on some business, and proposed such as they + judged most suitable for him; but he declared himself utterly + averse to trade, and begged he might be sent to sea. His mother + very reluctantly complied with his request, took him to + Portsmouth, and remained with him till he sailed. His captain + (now Lord Hood) promised to take care of him, and he kept his + word; for he gave him every indulgence his youth required. He + was then but eleven years of age. They had a warm engagement + soon after he entered, and took several prizes. The captain told + him he should have his share, but he begged, in a very + affectionate manner, it should be given to his mother, and she + should know best what to do with it. He was a midshipman several + years under the same commander; but, either on the conclusion of + the war, or having no hopes of preferment, he left the navy, and + entered into the service of the Hudson's Bay Company as mate of + one of their sloops. He was, however, soon distinguished from + his associates by his ingenuity, industry, and a wish to + undertake some hazardous enterprise by which mankind might be + benefited. This was represented to the Company, and they + immediately applied to him as a proper person to be sent on an + expedition they had long had in view, viz. to find out the + North-West Passage. He gladly accepted the proposal, and how far + he succeeded is shown to the public in his Journal. On his + return he was advanced to a more lucrative post at Prince of + Wales Fort, on Hudson Bay, and in a few years was made + Commander-in-Chief, in which position he remained till 1782, + when the French unexpectedly landed at Prince of Wales Fort, + took possession of it, and after having given the governor leave + to secure his own property, seized the stock of furs, &c. &c., + and blew up the fort. At the Company's request Mr. H. went out + the year following, saw it rebuilt,[1] and the new Governor + settled in his habitation (which they took care to fortify a + little better than formerly), and returned to England in 1787. + He had saved a few thousands, the fruits of many years' + industry, and might, had he been blessed with prudence, have + enjoyed many years of ease and plenty; but he had lived so long + where money was of no use that he seemed insensible of its value + here, and lent it with little or no security to those he was + scarcely acquainted with by name. Sincere and undesigning + himself, he was by no means a match for the duplicity of others. + His disposition, as may be judged by his writing, was naturally + humane; what he wanted in learning and polite accomplishments he + made up in native simplicity and innate goodness; and he was so + strictly scrupulous with regard to the property of others that + he was heard to say a few days before his death, 'He could lay + his hand on his heart and say he had never wronged any man of + sixpence.' + + "Such are the outlines of Mr. Hearne's character, who, if he had + some failings, had many virtues to counterbalance them, of which + charity was not the least. He died of the dropsy, November 1792, + aged 47." + +He seems to have entered the service of the Hudson's Bay Company and to +have been sent to Fort Prince of Wales, the great stone fortification on +the low bare rocky point at the mouth of the Churchill River on Hudson +Bay, when he was about twenty years old. For several years he was +engaged in the fur trade with the Eskimos, up and down the coast of +Hudson Bay, north of Churchill River. One little glimpse is caught of +him, on July 1, 1767, for on that day he chiselled his name on the +smooth hard rock of Sloops Cove, on the west side of Churchill harbour. +When I visited the place, in 1894, the name was as fresh and plain as if +his hammer and chisel had just been laid aside. + +Being possessed of much more than the average amount of ability and +enthusiasm, he was chosen by Moses Norton, the energetic Governor of +Fort Prince of Wales, to go out with the Indians into the vast, and as +far as that was then known, limitless, territory west of Hudson Bay, in +order to find and prospect the place where the native copper had been +found which the Indians often brought with them to the fort. + +During the year preceding his departure on his first expedition, he had +had an excellent opportunity to perfect himself in a knowledge of +astronomical and geodetic work, for in the summer of 1768 the annual +ship had brought William Wales, F.R.S., and Joseph Dymond from London, +commissioned by the Royal Society to remain at Fort Prince of Wales +throughout the ensuing year in order to observe the transit of Venus +over the sun on the 3rd of June 1769.[2] They remained at the fort until +the ship left again for London in August of the following year (1769). +Mr. Wales was one of the foremost astronomers, mathematicians, and +litterateurs of his age. Shortly after his return to England he was +appointed to accompany Captain Cook on his voyage around the world in +the _Resolution_ in 1772-74, and again on his last voyage in 1776-79. +His presence for more than a year among the little band of white men +assembled at this remote fur-trading post on Hudson Bay must have had a +helpful influence in preparing Hearne for his great explorations +overland to the Arctic Ocean. This book is an account of three journeys +which he undertook in rapid succession into the country west of Hudson +Bay and north-west of Fort Prince of Wales in search of the fabled bed +of copper ore, from which pure copper could be loaded directly into +ships at trifling expense. In the first and second journeys he was +obliged to turn back before reaching his destination, but in the third +journey all difficulties were finally overcome, and he was taken to and +shown the "mine" of copper. + +It has been my good fortune to travel over parts of the same country +through which Hearne had journeyed one hundred and twenty-three years +before me, and into which no white man had ventured during the +intervening time. The conditions which I found were just such as he +describes, except that the inhabitants had changed. The Chipewyan +Indians, whom he found occupying advantageous positions everywhere as +far as the north end of Dubawnt Lake, had disappeared, and in their +places the country had been occupied by scattered bands and families of +Eskimos, who had almost forgotten the ocean shores of the north, from +which they had come. They were depending entirely, for food and +clothing, on the caribou, which they killed on the banks of the inland +streams and lakes. Traces of old Indian encampments were seen in a few +of the scattered groves that are growing along the banks of Dubawnt and +Kazan Rivers, but these camps had evidently not been occupied for many +years.[3] + +[Illustration: _Photo. J. B. Tyrrell, Oakley, 1894._ +S. HEARNE'S NAME ON THE SMOOTH GLACIATED ROCK AT SLOOP'S COVE, NEAR +CHURCHILL] + +Whether Hearne remained at Fort Prince of Wales after his return is not +certain, but it is possible that he may have gone to some of the other +factories near the southern shore of Hudson Bay, and the plans of +Albany, Moos, and Slude (East Main) Rivers, at the end of this book, the +first two of which are dated 1774, may have been made by him at this +time. In the latter year, however, he was at York Factory, and from +there, in May or June, he was sent inland to the Saskatchewan River, +where he established Cumberland House on Pine Island Lake, close to a +trading-post which had been previously built by Joseph Frobisher, an +enterprising merchant from Montreal. The following year he was recalled +to Hudson Bay to take charge of his old home, Fort Prince of Wales, in +the place of Governor Norton, who had died, and there he remained +quietly trading with the Indians till August 1782, when the fort was +taken and burnt by the French under Admiral La Perouse. + +As soon as the French with three vessels of war appeared before the +fort and demanded its capitulation, Hearne surrendered at discretion, +without firing a shot. He was at once taken on board the French ships, +and allowed to retain all his private papers and effects, while the furs +and other property of the Hudson's Bay Company were either confiscated +or burnt. After pillaging and destroying the fort, La Perouse sailed +southward to York Factory, which also surrendered to him as soon as he +appeared before it, and then, with all his prisoners on board, including +the Governors of Fort Prince of Wales, York, and Severn, he sailed for +France. + +Hearne does not appear to have been treated by La Perouse as an enemy +who had been taken prisoner at the capture of a hostile fort, but rather +as a literary man whom he was anxious to encourage and patronise. While +a prisoner on board the French ships he was treated with every +consideration, and his generous captor, who was one of the foremost +geographers of his time, read his manuscript journal with evident +interest, and returned it to him on the express condition that he would +print and publish it immediately on his arrival in England. + +On the signing of peace with the French in the following year, Hearne +was sent back by the Hudson's Bay Company to Churchill. He made no +attempt to live again in the fort, which was very unfavourably situated +for obtaining both wood and water, but took up his residence on the site +of the original trading-post of the Hudson's Bay Company, five miles +south of Fort Prince of Wales, where the buildings of the Company stand +at the present day. + +In 1784, while Hearne was at Churchill, there arrived from England a +boy, fourteen years old, named David Thompson, who afterwards became the +great geographer of North-Western America. Thompson remained at +Churchill for only one year, during which time he copied some of +Hearne's Journal, and though he did not carry away any very friendly +feelings towards his superior officer, the knowledge which he gained of +the interior country, and of the possibilities of travel through it, +must have had a stimulating effect on him in after life. His note-books, +which are now in possession of the Government of the Province of +Ontario, are filled with detailed information about North-Western +America, so much of which he subsequently explored. In 1787 Hearne left +Churchill and returned to England, and from that date until his death, +in 1792, he probably spent most of his time in revising and preparing +his Journal for publication. + +Before discussing Hearne's character and the extent and value of his +work, it will be interesting to recount briefly the circumstances which +led up to the expedition to the Coppermine River. In the seventeenth +century the search for gold and silver monopolised the thoughts of many +of the adventurers in the Southern Seas, but those adventurers who +turned their attention to the more northern countries recognised that +there were other sources of wealth beside the precious metals. They saw +that the furs of many of the wild animals which roamed through the +forests might easily be obtained from the natives in exchange for +articles of European manufacture of but trifling value, and that these +furs might be sold in the markets of Europe and Asia at an enormous +profit. In this way what is known as the fur trade had its beginning on +the American continent. + +The Dutch, French, and English strove for shares in this lucrative +trade, and many of the wars and massacres of that time had their origin +in the strenuous endeavours of one or other of these nations to outwit +its rivals. The Dutch had headquarters on the Hudson River, in what is +now the State of New York, the French on the St. Lawrence River, in the +present Provinces of Quebec and Ontario, while the English established +themselves on the shores of Hudson Bay, founding a fur-trading company, +which was destined to survive till the present time, and to be one of +the greatest commercial corporations that the world has ever known. + +This Company was called "The Governor and Company of Adventurers of +England, trading into Hudson's Bay," or in brief, "The Hudson's Bay +Company." At first it occupied a few small buildings, called factories +or forts, situated at advantageous places near the mouths of rivers on +the shore of Hudson Bay, where the Indians, who were accustomed to roam +through the great unknown inland country, could come down in canoes to +trade their furs for guns, knives, and other commodities brought from +England by the white people. + +About the beginning of the eighteenth century, some of the Indians who +came to the more northern factories or trading-posts, and especially to +those situated at the mouths of the Churchill and Nelson Rivers, brought +with them rough pieces of native copper, and ornaments and weapons +fashioned from this metal. On being asked where the copper came from, +they said that they found it on the banks of a river, far away to the +north, and that it could be collected from the surface in great +abundance, but that the distance through which it was necessary for them +to carry it prevented them from bringing much of it to the factories. +These stories, along with the specimens which the Indians had in their +possession, gradually aroused more and more interest in the minds of the +fur-traders. At last they determined that there were far greater riches +within their reach than could be obtained by trading with the Indians +for furs, and decided to go in search of the copper mines whatever the +cost of such a search might be. Among the first to take up this quest +was Captain James Knight, a man of about eighty years of age, who had +spent most of his life in trading for furs with the Indians, and who for +several years had been in charge of York Factory for the Hudson's Bay +Company. With him were Captain Barlow, another fur-trader from Fort +Albany, and Captain Vaughan. + +When the Committee, appointed in 1748 by the British House of Commons to +inquire into the state and conditions of the countries adjoining Hudson +Bay, was taking evidence, one of the chief witnesses was a Captain +Carruthers, who in his evidence stated "that he had heard a good deal of +a Copper Mine to the northward of the Churchill River--that the Governor +(Knight) was mighty fond of the Discovery, and made great inquiries +about it,--that the witness had seen copper which was said to be brought +from thence,--that the Governor (Knight) was very earnest in this +Discovery, which was always his topic." + +Joseph Robson states that "Governor Knight and Captain Barlow being well +assured that there were rich mines to the northward, from the accounts +of the Indians of those parts who had brought some of the ore to the +factory, they were bent upon making the discovery; and the Governor said +he knew the way to the place as well as to his bedside."[4] In the year +1719, Captain Knight and his associates sailed from England in two +ships, the _Albany_ and the _Discovery_, well provided with stores and +provisions, and even with strong iron-bound boxes in which to bring back +the copper and other precious metals. Unfortunately the expedition was +wrecked on Marble Island, and all the officers and crew were lost, +although their fate was not definitely known until nearly half a century +later. + +Three years later, when the two ships had not returned, and no word had +been received from them, Captain Scroggs was sent by the Hudson's Bay +Company from Churchill to look for them, and at the same time to +continue the search for copper. The story of his journey, as given by +Dobbs in his "Account of the Countries adjoining to Hudson's Bay" +(London, 1744), says nothing about the explorers who had been lost, but +comments on the copper deposits as follows:-- + + "He [Scroggs] had two Northern [Chipewyan] Indians with him, who + had wintered at Churchill, and told him of a copper mine + somewhere in that country upon the shore near the surface of the + earth, and they could direct the sloop so near it, as to lay her + side to it, and be soon laden with it; and they brought some + pieces of copper from it to Churchill that made it evident there + was a mine thereabouts. They had sketched out the country with + charcoal upon a skin of parchment before they left Churchill, + and so far as they went it agreed very well. One of the Indians + desired to leave him, saying he was within three or four days' + journey of his own country, but he would not let him go. Captain + Norton, late Governor of Churchill, was then with him." + + +The Captain Norton here mentioned was the father of Governor Moses +Norton who afterwards despatched Hearne to look for the Coppermine +River. Captain Carruthers, who is mentioned above, and who, according to +his own statement, had "quitted" the service of the Hudson's Bay Company +thirty-five years before 1748, said that he "himself carried Mr. Norton, +who was afterwards Governor, and two Northern Indians to Churchill where +he put them in a canoe, and the purpose of their voyage was to make +discoveries and encourage the Indians to come down to trade and bring +copper ore."[5] + +The journey of Mr. Norton referred to by Captain Carruthers was probably +undertaken about 1714, in which year York Factory was restored to the +English, after having been occupied by the French for seventeen years. +Probably it was on account of this and similar journeys that, in 1719, a +gratuity of L15 was voted to Mr. Norton by the Hudson's Bay Company, on +account of having endured "great hardships in travelling among the +Indians." In 1733 the same Mr. Norton wrote to the directors of the +Hudson's Bay Company in London that he had "served your Honors many +years and gone through many difficulties and hardships in taking long +journeys with the natives to promote your trade with them, even many +times to the hazard of my own life."[6] + +In the same Parliamentary Report Alexander Browne, a surgeon who had +been for six years in the Company's service, testified "that the Indians +brought down the ore at the request of Governor Norton," and also "that +he had heard the late Mr. Norton say that he had been at this mine and +that a considerable quantity of copper might be brought down."[7] It is +not probable that Browne's statement with reference to Norton having +visited the Coppermine River is correct, but it would be rash to deny +that such a journey had been accomplished until the letters and records +of the Hudson's Bay Company are finally made public. + +After the unsuccessful voyages of Captains Knight and Scroggs, several +other expeditions were sent from Churchill northward along the shore of +Hudson Bay. Most of these doubtless more than paid their way by trading +for furs with the Eskimos, but to the outside public they were +ostensibly to find the North-West Passage to China and the "mine" of +copper ore. The most important of these expeditions were those of the +_Furnace_ and _Discovery_ under Captains Middleton and Moor, in 1741-2, +and of the _Dobbs_ and _California_ under Captains Moor and Smith in +1746-7. After these expeditions, interest in the copper may have +languished for a while, but the numerous references to it in the +Hudson's Bay Report of 1749 show that it was not by any means forgotten. + +Meanwhile, Richard Norton of Churchill had died, and his half-breed son +Moses Norton had been appointed Governor in his stead. In the year 1767 +the remains of Knight's ill-fated expedition were found on Marble +Island, and the thoughts of the people on Hudson Bay were undoubtedly +again turned to the object for which his voyage had been undertaken. To +add to the interest in the copper, the Northern Indians, who came to +Churchill in the year 1768, brought with them some fine specimens of ore +which they said came from Coppermine River. By this time Governor Moses +Norton's interest was thoroughly aroused in the possible value of the +copper "mines," and as they were said to be only four hundred miles from +Churchill, he determined that, if possible, something definite should be +learned about them. Accordingly, that very summer, when the ship came +from England, he took passage back in it to London, and laid a plan for +the discovery of this supposed great body of copper ore before the +directors of the Company and received their approval for its execution. +The plan was not to entail any very great expense to the Company. A man +was to be sent out with the Indians, who should be supported by them and +live as they lived. + +Before that time other men had been sent into the wilderness, in the +same way, from factories, especially from York, where, in 1690, Henry +Kelsey had travelled southward until he met the so-called "Naywatamee +poets" or Mandan Indians, somewhere near the banks of the Assiniboine or +South Saskatchewan Rivers,[8] and in 1754 Anthony Hendry had made a +notable journey up the North Saskatchewan River to the great plains, +where he had endeavoured to establish friendly relations with the +Blackfeet Indians and their allies, and to prevent them from selling +their furs to Luc la Corne and the French merchants from Montreal, who +had penetrated into the same country several years before. Both these +men had been treated with the greatest kindness by the natives and had +brought back intelligent accounts of the countries visited by them, +though neither of them had the ability of Samuel Hearne to enable them +to prepare a report such as the one here published. + +Governor Norton was a man of much more than the ordinary intelligence +and strength of character, and he saw that if the expedition was to be a +success it must be conducted by some one who would be able to make full +and accurate surveys of the route followed, and who could intelligently +describe the character and value of the "mine" and determine its +latitude and longitude by astronomical observations. For this purpose he +chose Samuel Hearne, now a young man twenty-four years of age, who, +after his service as a midshipman in the British Navy, was at the time +employed as a mate on the _Charlotte_, one of the Company's sloops +trading from Churchill with the Eskimos. The story of his journey, the +hardships which he endured, and the success which he achieved, form the +subject of this book and need not be discussed here.[9] + +Hearne's character, which had been moulded to a large extent by his +surroundings, can be fairly well understood from a careful reading of +his book. He was diligent and reasonably accurate but not strong or +forceful. In this latter particular he differed from his great +successor, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who descended the Mackenzie River +eighteen years after Hearne had reached its waters at Great Slave Lake. +Alexander Mackenzie was a man of masterful temperament, and those who +accompanied him, whether white men or natives, were merely so many +instruments to be used in the accomplishment of any purpose which he had +in hand. Their likes and dislikes, and their habits of life, were merely +interesting to him in so far as they affected the results that he wished +to attain. His book is a detailed description of the directions and +distances which he travelled each day, and of the incidents of travel as +they occurred. To Samuel Hearne the natives with whom he travelled were +beings whose thoughts and habits of life he found supremely interesting. +Their intentions and desires largely controlled the expeditions on which +he had embarked. With the exception of the accomplishment of the main +object in view, of reaching the Coppermine River, their wishes were +everything, his nothing. + +His first expedition was a complete failure, as the Indians simply took +him off with them for a couple of hundred miles into the wilderness +until they became tired of his company and then robbed him of everything +he had and left him to find his own way back to Churchill as best he +could. His second expedition was more successful, as the Indians +tolerated his company for eight months and supported him as long as food +was plentiful, but their enthusiasm, or duty to the Master at Churchill, +did not last long enough to carry them to the Coppermine River. + +Of his third and successful expedition Hearne was the historian and +surveyor, while Matonabbee, a bold and forceful Chipewyan Indian about +ten years his senior, was its leader. If at any time Hearne tried to +interfere with the arrangements made by the leader he was promptly told +to follow instructions if he wished to reach the copper mine. While +Matonabbee probably reciprocated, to some extent at least, Hearne's +affection for him, he was evidently thinking of and working for Moses +Norton, the rough but powerful governor of Fort Prince of Wales, rather +than for the quiet and observant young man who was accompanying him. +Hearne's sketch of the life of Matonabbee is one of the most +appreciative and sympathetic accounts of a North American Indian that +has come to my notice. + +Hearne was evidently gifted with a very retentive memory, and had the +artist's faculty of seeing the interesting features of his surroundings +in their true perspective. Though, like Robert Louis Stevenson and many +others, he had not been a brilliant student at school, he possessed the +literary ability to present what he saw or knew in an interesting and +attractive form. In the ordinary quietude of his tent or office, when +thinking of nothing but the subject which he was describing, he +undoubtedly recorded his observations with accuracy. But in the warmth +of dispute, when endeavouring to overcome the criticisms or objections +of others, he was liable to be carried beyond the points of strict +accuracy and, in order to strengthen his argument, to fill in blanks in +his record from his imagination. He says, for example, that the sun was +above the horizon at midnight at the mouth of the Coppermine River. But +it is certain either that, on the night which he spent there, the +weather was too cloudy to permit of seeing the sun, if it had been above +the horizon, or that, even if the weather was clear, the sun must +necessarily have been below the horizon at the time. His sketch of Moses +Norton also has the appearance of being highly coloured by his evident +personal dislike of the man. No one can justly accuse Hearne of lack of +personal courage, for the annoyances, hardships, and sufferings, which +he endured without complaining, put the thought of personal cowardice +entirely out of the question. He had acquired the stoicism of the Indian +and he suffered quietly, just as an Indian is prepared to suffer. During +the years which Hearne spent among the Indians, living on what they were +able to obtain from day to day, as well as in his general intercourse +with them as a trader bartering for the furs which they were able to +collect and bring to him, he had learned to endure privations, to +compromise rather than to fight, and to accomplish his purpose by +politic and peaceful, rather than by warlike, methods. Naturally of a +complaisant disposition, he had learned to give whatever was demanded of +him, no matter who made the demand. Nothing could be more typical of the +habits which he had thus acquired than the little experiences in +trading, recounted on page 285, where, after an Indian had received full +payment for the furs which he had brought in, he was given in addition +the long list of articles there enumerated. Apparently, the Indian was +not refused anything if he persisted in asking. + +This habit of acceding to requests to avoid dispute and difficulty, +rather than any real fear of personal danger, accounts for Hearne's +surrender of Fort Prince of Wales to the French without a struggle. In +this case it is quite possible that, in spite of the great strength of +the fort which he occupied, he was really not able to make effective +resistance against his powerful and determined enemy, who outnumbered +him more than ten to one. Although the fort mounted forty heavy guns, +and was provided with plenty of ammunition and small arms, it had only +thirty-nine men within its walls at the time. But even if Hearne had had +a stronger garrison, it is doubtful whether he would have attempted +resistance, for his training in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company +had taught him to preserve the peace at any price, and it was impossible +for him to set aside at a moment's notice what had become second nature +to him. + +We have seen that Hearne had not the forceful character possessed by +Alexander Mackenzie; yet, as a man must be judged by the results which +he achieves, it is perhaps all the more creditable to him to have done +what he did with his more complaisant and observant disposition. Though +he could not control the Indians with whom he travelled, he nevertheless +accomplished his purpose of making the journey, and has left a splendid +record of it to enrich posterity. He was hardly a great geographer, +though he added largely to the geographical knowledge of Northern Canada +west of Hudson Bay. It was he who finally set at rest the question of a +north-west passage by sea to China and the Orient, south of the mouth of +the Coppermine River. He knew nothing of mines or ores, and the +information he brought back about the "mine" of copper which he was +sent to explore was exceedingly meagre. He verified the report of the +existence of native copper on the surface in uncertain quantity. +Incidentally he showed that the place where it occurred was too remote +and difficult of access to permit of a copper mine being worked at a +profit, even if the copper should be found in great abundance. But that +was all. In fact, even to the present time, we have very little accurate +knowledge of the character and extent of this copper deposit near the +Coppermine River, as may be seen by referring to the notes on pages 194 +_et seq._ + +On Hearne's first and second journeys he had quite adequate scientific +apparatus, and so could take astronomical observations to determine his +true position. So we find that he occasionally made use of his quadrant +and took such observations; consequently the positions given on the map +for the principal points in these two journeys are approximately +correct. But he started on his third journey with very faulty +instruments, and he would appear to have made very little use even of +them. The map of the course followed by him on this journey strongly +suggests a rough sketch made by his Indian guide, rather than a careful +plan worked out by himself, from day to day, or week to week. For +example, between Island and Kasba Lakes, near the beginning of his +journey, and shortly after he had diverged from his course of the +previous year, he began to go wrong. If he was using his compass at all, +it is possible that some source of local magnetic attraction was +influencing it, for the position of the last-named lake (on his map) is +some sixty or seventy miles too far north. It is inconceivable that he +could have made any serious effort to correct this faulty course by +astronomical observations with his quadrant. His book is chiefly +valuable therefore not so much because of its geographical information, +but because it is an accurate, sympathetic, and patently truthful record +of life among the Chipewyan Indians at that time. Their habits, customs, +and general mode of life, however disagreeable or repulsive, are +recorded in detail, and the book will consequently always remain a +classic in American ethnology. + +The manuscript report on Hearne's exploration was submitted to the +directors of the Hudson's Bay Company immediately after his return, and +they highly commended him for the work he had done, and gave him a +handsome bonus.[10] The first account of his journey which seems to have +been published was given to the world in 1784 in the "Introduction to +Cook's Third Voyage," pp. xlvi-l, written by Dr. John Douglas, Bishop of +Salisbury, who later also edited Hearne's own book. The route followed +by Hearne on his successful third journey is incorporated in the general +map of the world accompanying this book. A Mr. Roberts, who prepared +this map, makes the following note with regard to it:-- + + "The whole of Hudson's Bay I took from a chart compiled by Mr. + Marley, from all the most authentic maps he could procure of + those parts, with which I was favoured by Samuel Wegg, Esq., + F.R.S., and Governor of that Company, who also politely + furnished me with Mr. Hearne's Journals and the map of his route + to the Coppermine River, which is faithfully inserted in the + chart. + + "(Sgd.) HENRY ROBERTS. + "SHOREHAM, SUSSEX, _May 18, 1784_."[11] + +Another brief account of Hearne's trip is given in "Pennant's Arctic +Zoology," also published in 1784, while his map is incorporated in one +of the maps published in "Pennant's Supplement to Arctic Zoology," 1787. +Some of the names used on these two maps were continued on the map +accompanying Alexander Mackenzie's "Voyages," and also on Arrowsmith's +maps up to comparatively recent dates. + +[Illustration: MAP OF PART OF NORTH AMERICA +Being a portion of the Map of the World in "Cook's Third Voyage," +published in 1784 Hearne's route was first published on this map] + +[Illustration: MAP OF PART OF NORTH AMERICA +Showing General Course of Hearne's Third Journey _From the Second Map of +Mr. Pennant's "Arctic Zoology," 1787_] + +The book here republished appeared first in 1795, three years after +Hearne's death, as a large quarto volume of xliv + 458 pages, with five +maps, and four full-page illustrations. It was edited by the above-named +Dr. John Douglas, who is said to have drawn up the narrative, and to +have finished the Introduction, though just how much Hearne's diction +was altered by the editor is not known. It is probable, however, that +the MS. was published almost exactly as Hearne had written it. An octavo +edition, similar in letterpress to the original quarto one, but with +some slight omissions or differences in the text and in the general map, +was published in Dublin in 1796. + +A French translation of the 1795 edition, by Lallemant, one of the +secretaries in the French Department of the Marine, was published at +Paris in 1799. Dr. Arthur G. Doughty, the Archivist of the Dominion of +Canada, has very kindly compared this edition with the English one of +1795, and makes the following remarks with regard to it:-- + + "The dedication of the English version is omitted in the French. + In the Introduction, page 27, there is a note in the English + edition which is not translated. Pages 441 to 445 of the English + edition are omitted in the French. At the beginning of the + French version there is a note on Hearne from the 'Voyage of La + Perouse,' and some remarks by Lallemant. The translation of the + whole volume appears to be good." + +The note from the "Voyage of La Perouse" and the remarks of Lallemant +are as follows:-- + + "A LA PEROUSE.--C'est a vous que l'Europe est redevable de la + publication de cet ouvrage, dont le manuscrit fut trouve parmi + les papiers du Gouverneur du fort du Prince de Galles, lorsque + vous vous rendites maitre des etablissements anglais dans la + Baie de Hudson. En le remettant a son auteur, a la condition + expresse de le faire imprimer et publier, jamais vainqueur + n'exerca plus utilement son droit de conquete et n'imposa au + vaincu une condition plus honorable.[12] Elle etait digne du + marin aussi genereux qu'eclaire qui devait, quelques annees + apres, entreprendre un voyage non moins important, et dont + aujourd'hui nous deplorons la perte. + + "Pourquoi faut-il, brave et excellent _Dupetit-Thouars_, que + vous nous ayez ete aussi ravi! vous qui m'excitates avec tant + d'ardeur a traduire la relation de _Samuel Hearne_, et qui, + apres avoir tout sacrifie pour aller redemander _la Perouse_ aux + iles de la mer du Sud, soupiriez apres la paix pour reprendre + vos projets de decouvertes. Accable par le nombre au combat + d'_Aboukir_, une mort glorieuse vous a enleve a votre patrie, a + deux soeurs cheries, a l'amitie, aux sciences, et il ne nous est + revenu de vous que cette reponse heroique a l'ennemi: '_Voyez + mon pavillon; on ne le deplacera qu'en m'otant la vie._' + + "_La Perouse_, vous l'eussiez pleure comme nous! il etait si + attache a son pays, a son metier, et si passionne pour leur + gloire. Il avait une ame si forte et un coeur si sensible; un + esprit si cultive et des dehors si modestes. Il etait ami si + vrai et frere si tendre. _Perpetue, Felicite_, j'en appele a + votre douleur profonde! + + "En associant son nom au votre, _la Perouse_, permettez qu'il + partage avec vous l'hommage d'une traduction a laquelle je me + suis empresse de consacrer mes veilles pour concourir a vos vues + respectives d'utilite. Puisse ce monument etre digne de vous + deux! + + "LALLEMANT, + "l'un des Secretaires de la Marine." + +Hearne intimates on page 32 that the map here reproduced differs +slightly from those which he had previously published, a reference +doubtless to the one in Cook's "Voyage," but he claims that this one is +the most accurate, since he had revised it with great care. Both maps +are here given; further explorations in the northern country alone can +determine which is the more correct. + +Fort Prince of Wales, from which place Hearne started on his expedition, +was built by the Hudson's Bay Company in the years 1733 to 1771. It is +said to have been designed by English military engineers, and, according +to Joseph Robson, was built under the direction of the resident +Governor, though Robson himself had much to do with its construction. + +The fort, which is one of the most interesting military ruins on the +continent, stands on Eskimo Point, just west of the mouth of Churchill +River, and though some parts of the walls have fallen, it was, when I +visited it, in much the same condition as when built, except that the +houses within it had been gutted by fire. It is 310 feet long on the +north and south sides, and 317 feet long on the east and west sides, +measured from corner to corner of the bastions. The walls are from 37 to +42 feet thick, and 16 feet 9 inches high to the top of the parapet, +which is 5 feet high and 6 feet 3 inches wide. On the outside the wall +was faced with dressed stone, except towards the river, while on the +inside undressed stone was used. The interior of the wall is a rubble of +boulders, held together by a poor mortar. In the parapet are forty +embrasures and forty guns, from six to twenty-four pounders, are lying +on the wall near them, now partly hidden by low willows, currant and +gooseberry bushes. The three store-houses and the magazine, which once +occupied the centres of the bastions, have disappeared. Within the +square enclosure are the stone walls of a house 103 feet long, 33 feet +wide, and 17 feet high, which is said to have had a flat roof covered +with lead. The small observatory used by Mr. Wales in 1769 was situated +on the south-east bastion. + +[Illustration: PLAN OF FORT PRINCE OF WALES. +By J. B. TYRRELL. 1894. Walls, 37 to 42 feet thick, 16 feet 9 inches +high. Scale: 80 feet = 1 inch.] + +This new edition is a reprint of the quarto edition of 1795. The +pagination of the original has been inserted, enclosed within square +brackets, at the proper places in the text, and the notes are given as +in the original volume. The notes of the present editor are indicated by +Arabic numerals. + +Most of the photographs here reproduced were taken by the editor in 1893 +and 1894, but those of Artillery Lake were taken by Mr. J. W. Tyrrell in +1900, and the Eskimo implements of native copper were obtained by him at +that time. + +Several additional maps have been added. Among these are the portions of +Cook's and Pennant's maps of parts of North America showing the first +published records of Hearne's courses; a map of the Coppermine River as +surveyed by Sir John Franklin in 1821; and a general map of Northern +Canada drawn on the same scale and projection as Hearne's large map, and +with his routes laid down as correctly as it has been possible for me to +determine them. The latter map is much more easily compared with +Hearne's original map than one drawn on the polyconic projection in +common use at the present time. + +I wish to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mr. Edward A. Preble of the +Biological Survey, Washington, D.C., U.S.A., author of "A Biological +Investigation of the Hudson Bay Region" and "A Biological Investigation +of the Athabaska-Mackenzie Region," who has so kindly annotated Chapter +X. on the fauna and flora of Hudson Bay, and has also added the notes to +which his initials are attached in other parts of the volume. + + J. B. TYRRELL. + TORONTO, _February 1, 1910_. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] This is an error, as the fort was neither rebuilt nor refortified. + +[2] The results of their observations were published in the +_Philosophical Transactions_, vol. lix. (1769), pp. 467 and 480, and +vol. lx. (1770), pp. 100 and 137. + +[3] "Report on the Dubawnt, Kazan, and Ferguson Rivers," by J. B. +Tyrrell. "Geological Survey of Canada," Part F, vol. ix. 1896. Ottawa, +1897. + +[4] "Six Years' Residence in Hudson's Bay," by J. Robson, 1752, p. 15. +Robson strongly urged an overland expedition to discover the copper, p. +60. + +[5] Hudson's Bay Report, 1749, p. 230. + +[6] Ibid., p. 271. + +[7] Hudson's Bay Report, 1749, p. 226. + +[8] Henry Kelsey's account of this journey has given rise to a good deal +of dispute and scepticism. It gives me the impression that it is a story +written from memory years after the journey was performed, but his +general description of the country on the Red Deer River just north of +the Province of Manitoba, and of the plains of Saskatchewan to the +south-west of it, is too clear to be mistaken. I am indebted to +Professor W. H. Holmes, Director of the United States Bureau of +Ethnology, for assistance in identifying the "Naywatamee poets" with the +Mandan Indians. + +[9] As farther evidence that this expedition was undertaken solely for +the purpose of obtaining a knowledge of the whereabouts of the copper +deposits, Edward Umfreville, who was employed as a writer at York +Factory in Hearne's time, makes the following interesting statement: +"Some years since, the Company being informed that the Indians +frequently brought fine pieces of copper to their Settlements on +Churchill River, they took into consideration, and appointed a person +(S. Hearne) with proper assistants, to survey and examine the river +where the valuable acquisition was supposed to be concealed."--_The +Present State of Hudson's Bay_, by Edward Umfreville, p. 45. London, +1790. + +[10] Mr. Beckles Willson, in his book "The Great Company," says, on I +know not what authority, that it was L200. + +[11] "Cook's Third Voyage," vol. i. Introduction, p. lxxxi. London, +1784. For purposes of comparison, the portion of this map which refers +to Hearne is republished at the end of the present volume. It is stated +by Beckles Willson in "The Great Company" that short accounts of his +journey had been published in 1773 and again in 1778-80, but though +diligent search has been made for these accounts in the British Museum +and elsewhere, no trace of them can be found. + +[12] "Le Gouverneur _Hearne_ avait fait, en 1772, un voyage par terre +vers le Nord, en partant du fort Churchill dans la Baie de Hudson, +'_Samuel Hearne partit du fort du Prince de Galles le 7 Decembre 1770_,' +voyage dont on attend les details avec impatience; le journal manuscrit +en fut trouve par _la Perouse_ dans les papiers de ce Gouverneur, qui +insista pour qu'il lui fut laisse comme sa propriete particuliere. Ce +voyage ayant ete fait neanmoins par ordre de la Compagnie de Hudson, +dans la vue d'acquerir des connaissances sur la partie du Nord de +l'Amerique, le journal pouvait bien etre cense appartenir a cette +Compagnie, et par consequent etre devolu au vainqueur; cependant _la +Perouse_ ceda, par bonte, aux instances du Gouverneur _Hearne_, et lui +rendit le manuscrit; mais a la condition expresse de la faire imprimer +et publier des qu'il serait de retour en Angleterre. Cette condition ne +parait pas avoir ete remplie jusqu'a present.[A] Esperons que la +remarque qui en est faite, rendue publique, produira l'effet attendu ou +qu'elle engagera le Gouverneur a faire connaitre si la Compagnie de +Hudson, qui redoute qu'on ne s'immisce dans ses affaires et son +commerce, s'est opposee a sa publication."--Discours preliminaire du +Voyage de _la Perouse_ autour du monde, pp. xlvi et xlvii de l'in-4^º. + +[A] Le Voyage de Samuel Hearne a ete publie a Londres en l'an 3, et +celui de _la Perouse_ a Paris, en l'an 6. (_Note du Traducteur du Voyage +de_ Samuel Hearne.) + + +[Illustration: M^R. SAMUEL HEARNE +_Late Chief at Prince of Wales's Fort. Hudson's Bay. Published as +the Act directs by J. Sewell, Cornhill Aug^t. 1^{st}. 1796 From the +"European Magazine," June, 1797_] + + + + + A + JOURNEY + FROM + Prince of Wales's Fort, in Hudson's Bay, + TO + THE NORTHERN OCEAN. + + UNDERTAKEN + _BY ORDER OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY._ + FOR THE DISCOVERY OF + COPPER MINES, A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, &c. + In the Years 1769, 1770, 1771, & 1772. + + + By SAMUEL HEARNE. + + + LONDON: + + Printed for A. STRAHAN and T. CADELL: + And Sold by T. CADELL Jun. and W. DAVIES, (Successors to + Mr. CADELL,) in the Strand. + + 1795 + + + + + TO + SAMUEL WEGG, ESQ., GOVERNOR, + SIR JAMES WINTER LAKE, DEPUTY GOVERNOR, + AND + THE REST OF THE COMMITTEE + OF THE HONOURABLE + _HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY._ + + * * * * * + +HONOURABLE SIRS, + +As the following Journey was undertaken at your Request and Expence, I +feel it no less my Duty than my Inclination to address it to you; hoping +that my humble Endeavours to relate, in a plain and unadorned Style, the +various Circumstances and Remarks which {iv} occurred during that +Journey, will meet with your Approbation. + + I am, with much Esteem and Gratitude, + HONOURABLE SIRS, + Your most obedient, and + most obliged humble Servant, + SAMUEL HEARNE. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Mr. Dalrymple, in one of his Pamphlets relating to Hudson's Bay, has +been so very particular in his observations on my Journey, as to remark, +that I have not explained the construction of the Quadrant which I had +the misfortune to break in my second Journey to the North. It was a +Hadley's Quadrant, with a bubble attached to it for a horizon, and made +by Daniel Scatlif of Wapping. But as no instrument of the same principle +could be procured when I was setting out on my last Journey, an old +Elton's Quadrant, which had been upwards of thirty years at the Fort, +was the only instrument I could then be provided with, in any respect +proper for making observations with on the land. + +Mr. Dalrymple also observes, that I only inserted in my last Journal to +the Company, one observation for the latitude, which may be true; but I +had, nevertheless, several others during that Journey, particularly at +Snow-bird Lake, Thelwey-aza-yeth, and Clowey, exclusive of that +mentioned in the Journal taken at Conge-cathawhachaga. But when I was on +that Journey, and for several {vi} years after, I little thought that +any remarks made in it would ever have attracted the notice of the +Public; if I had, greater pains might and would have been taken to +render it more worthy of their attention than it now is. At that time my +ideas and ambition extended no farther than to give my employers such an +account of my proceedings as might be satisfactory to them, and answer +the purpose which they had in view; little thinking it would ever come +under the inspection of so ingenious and indefatigable a geographer as +Mr. Dalrymple must be allowed to be. But as the case has turned out +otherwise, I have at my leisure hours recopied all my Journals into one +book, and in some instances added to the remarks I had before made; not +so much for the information of those who are critics in geography, as +for the amusement of candid and indulgent readers, who may perhaps feel +themselves in some measure gratified, by having the face of a country +brought to their view, which has hitherto been entirely unknown to every +European except myself. Nor will, I flatter myself, a description of the +modes of living, manners, and customs of the natives (which, though long +known, have never been described), be less acceptable to the curious. + +I cannot help observing, that I feel myself rather hurt at Mr. +Dalrymple's rejecting my latitude in so peremptory a manner, and in so +great a proportion, as he has done; because, before I arrived at +Conge-cathawhachaga, the {vii} Sun did not set during the whole night: a +proof that I was then to the Northward of the Arctic Circle. I may be +allowed to add, that when I was at the Copper River, on the eighteenth +of July, the Sun's declination was but 21 deg., and yet it was certainly +some height above the horizon at midnight; how much, as I did not _then_ +remark, I will not _now_ take upon me to say; but it proves that the +latitude was considerably more than Mr. Dalrymple will admit of. His +assertion, that no grass is to be found on the (rocky) coast of +Greenland farther North than the latitude of 65 deg., is no proof there +should not be any in a much higher latitude in the interior parts of +North America. For, in the first place, I think it is more than +probable, that the Copper River empties itself into a sort of inland +Sea, or extensive Bay, somewhat like that of Hudson's: and it is well +known that no part of the coast of Hudson's Straits, nor those of +Labradore, at least for some degrees South of them, any more than the +East coast of Hudson's Bay, till we arrive near Whale River, have any +trees on them; while the West coast of the Bay in the same latitudes, is +well clothed with timber. Where then is the ground for such an +assertion? Had Mr. Dalrymple considered this circumstance only, I +flatter myself he would not so hastily have objected to woods and grass +being seen in similar situations, though in a much higher latitude. +Neither can the reasoning which Mr. Dalrymple derives from the error I +committed in estimating the distance to Cumberland House, any way affect +the question under {viii} consideration; because that distance being +chiefly in longitude, I had no means of correcting it by an observation, +which was not the case here. + +I do not by any means wish to enter into a dispute with, or incur the +displeasure of Mr. Dalrymple; but thinking, as I do, that I have not +been treated in so liberal a manner as I ought to have been, he will +excuse me for endeavouring to convince the Public that his objections +are in a great measure without foundation. And having done so, I shall +quit the disagreeable subject with declaring, that if any part of the +following sheets should afford amusement to Mr. Dalrymple, or any other +of my readers, it will be the highest gratification I can receive, and +the only recompence I desire to obtain for the hardships and fatigue +which I underwent in procuring the information contained in them. + +Being well assured that several learned and curious gentlemen are in +possession of manuscript copies of, or extracts from, my Journals, as +well as copies of the Charts, I have been induced to make this copy as +correct as possible, and to publish it; especially as I observe that +scarcely any two of the publications that contain extracts from my +Journals, agree in the dates when I arrived at, or departed from, +particular places. To rectify those disagreements I applied to the +Governor and Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company, for leave to peruse +my original Journals. This was granted with the greatest affability {ix} +and politeness; as well as a sight of all my Charts relative to this +Journey. With this assistance I have been enabled to rectify some +inaccuracies that had, by trusting too much to memory, crept into this +copy; and I now offer it to the Public under authentic dates and the +best authorities, however widely some publications may differ from it. + +I have taken the liberty to expunge some passages which were inserted in +the original copy, as being no ways interesting to the Public, and +several others have undergone great alterations; so that, in fact, the +whole may be said to be new-modelled, by being blended with a variety of +Remarks and Notes that were not inserted in the original copy, but which +my long residence in the country has enabled me to add. + +The account of the principal quadrupeds and birds that frequent those +Northern regions in Summer, as well as those which never migrate, though +not described in a scientific manner, may not be entirely unacceptable +to the most scientific zoologists; and to those who are unacquainted +with the technical terms used in zoology, it may perhaps be more useful +and entertaining, than if I had described them in the most classical +manner. But I must not conclude this Preface, without acknowledging, in +the most ample manner, the assistance I have received from the perusal +of Mr Pennant's Arctic Zoology, which has enabled me to give several of +the birds their proper {x} names; for those by which they are known in +Hudson's Bay are purely Indian, and of course quite unknown to every +European who has not resided in that country. + +To conclude, I cannot sufficiently regret the loss of a considerable +Vocabulary of the Northern Indian Language, containing sixteen folio +pages, which was lent to the late Mr. Hutchins, then Corresponding +Secretary to the Company, to copy for Captain Duncan, when he went on +discoveries to Hudson's Bay in the year one thousand seven hundred and +ninety. But Mr. Hutchins dying soon after, the Vocabulary was taken away +with the rest of his effects, and cannot now be recovered; and memory, +at this time, will by no means serve to replace it. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + INTRODUCTION 41 + + CHAP. I. + + Transactions from my leaving Prince of Wales's Fort on my first + Expedition, till our Arrival there again. + + Set off from the Fort; arrive at Po-co-ree-kis-co River--One of + the Northern Indians deserts--Cross Seal River, and walk on the + barren grounds--Receive wrong information concerning the + distance of the woods--Weather begins to be very cold, + provisions all expended, and nothing to be got--Strike to the + Westward, arrive at the woods, and kill three deer--Set forward + in the North West quarter, see the tracks of musk-oxen and deer, + but killed none--Very short of provisions--Chawchinahaw wants us + to return--Neither he nor his crew contribute to our + maintenance--He influences several of the Indians to + desert--Chawchinahaw and all his crew leave us--Begin our return + to the Factory; kill a few partridges, the first meal we had had + for several days--Villany of one of the home Indians and his + wife, who was a Northern Indian woman--Arrive at the Seal River, + kill two deer; partridges plenty--Meet a strange Northern + Indian, accompany him to his tent, usage received there; my + Indians assist in killing some beaver--Proceed toward home, and + arrive at the Fort 61 + + CHAP. II. + + Transactions from our Arrival at the Factory, to my leaving it + again, and during the First Part of my Second Journey, till I + had the misfortune to break the Quadrant. + + Transactions at the Factory--Proceed on my second + journey--Arrive at Seal River--Deer plentiful for some + time--Method of angling fish under the ice--Set our + fishing-nets--Method of setting nets under the ice--My guide + [xii] proposes to stay till the geese should begin to fly; his + reasons accepted--Pitch our tent in the best manner--Method of + pitching a tent in Winter--Fish plentiful for some time; grow + very scarce; in great want of provisions--Manner of employing my + time--My guide killed two deer--Move to the place they were + lying at; there kill several more deer, and three beavers--Soon + in want of provisions again--Many Indians join us from the + Westward--We begin to move towards the barren ground--Arrive at + She-than-nee, there suffer great distress for want of + provisions--Indians kill two swans and three geese--Geese and + other birds of passage plentiful--Leave She-than-nee, and arrive + at Beralzone--One of my companions guns bursts, and shatters his + left hand--Leave Beralzone, and get on the barren ground, clear + of all woods--Throw away our sledges and snow shoes--Each person + takes a load on his back; my part of the luggage--Exposed to + many hardships--Several days without victuals--Indians kill + three musk-oxen, but for want of fire are obliged to eat the + meat raw--Fine weather returns; make a fire; effects of long + fasting; stay a day or two to dry some meat in the Sun--Proceed + to the Northward, and arrive at Cathawhachaga; there find some + tents of Indians--A Northern Leader called Keelshies meets us; + send a letter by him to the Governor--Transactions at + Cathawhachaga; leave it and proceed to the Northward--Meet + several Indians--My guide not willing to proceed; his reasons + for it--Many more Indians join us--Arrive at Doobaunt Whoie + River--Manner of ferrying over rivers in the Northern Indian + canoes--No rivers in those parts in a useful direction for the + natives--Had nearly lost the quadrant and all the powder--Some + reflections on our situation, and conduct of the Indians--Find + the quadrant and part of the powder--Observe for the + latitude--Quadrant broke--Resolve to return again to the Factory + 69 + + CHAP. III. + + Transactions from the time the Quadrant was broken, till I + arrived at the Factory. + + Several strange Indians join us from the Northward--They plunder + me of all I had; but did not plunder the Southern Indians--My + guide plundered--We begin our return to the Factory--Meet with + other Indians, who join our company--Collect deer-skins for + clothing, but could not get them {xiii} dressed--Suffer much + hardship from the want of tents and warm clothing--Most of the + Indians leave us--Meet with Matonabbee--Some account of him, and + his behaviour to me and the Southern Indians--We remain in his + company some time--His observations on my two unsuccessful + attempts--We leave him, and proceed to a place to which he + directed us, in order to make snow-shoes and sledges--Join + Matonabbee again, and proceed towards the Factory in his + company--Ammunition runs short--Myself and four Indians set off + post for the Factory--Much bewildered in a snow storm; my dog is + frozen to death; we lie in a bush of willows--Proceed on our + journey--Great difficulty in crossing a jumble of rocks--Arrive + at the Fort 96 + + CHAP. IV. + + Transactions during our Stay at Prince of Wales's Fort, and the + former Part of our third Expedition, till our Arrival at Clowey, + where we built Canoes, in May 1771. + + Preparations for our departure--Refuse to take any of the + home-guard Indians with me--By so doing, I offend the + Governor--Leave the Fort a third time--My instructions on this + expedition--Provisions of all kinds very scarce--Arrive at the + woods, where we kill some deer--Arrive at Island + Lake--Matonabbee taken ill--Some remarks thereon--Join the + remainder of the Indians' families--Leave Island + Lake--Description thereof--Deer plentiful--Meet a strange + Indian--Alter our course from West North West to West by + South--Cross Cathawhachaga River, Cossed Lake, Snow-Bird Lake, + and Pike Lake--Arrive at a tent of strangers, who are employed + in snaring deer in a pound--Description of a pound--Method of + proceeding--Remarks thereon--Proceed on our journey--Meet with + several parties of Indians; by one of whom I sent a letter to + the Governor at Prince of Wales's Fort--Arrive at + Thleweyazayeth--Employment there--Proceed to the North North + West and North--Arrive at Clowey--One of the Indian's wives + taken in labour--Remarks thereon--Customs observed by the + Northern Indians on those occasions 106 + + {xiv} CHAP. V. + + Transactions at Clowey, and on our Journey, till our Arrival at + the Copper-mine River. + + Several strange Indians join us--Indians employed in building + canoes; description and use of them--More Indians join us, to + the amount of some hundreds--Leave Clowey--Receive intelligence + that Keelshies was near us--Two young men dispatched for my + letters and goods--Arrive at Peshew Lake; cross part of it, and + make a large smoke--One of Matonabbee's wives elopes--Some + remarks on the natives--Keelshies joins us, and delivers my + letters, but the goods were all expended--A Northern Indian + wishes to take one of Matonabbee's wives from him; matters + compromised, but had like to have proved fatal to my + progress--Cross Peshew Lake, when I make proper arrangements for + the remainder of my journey--Many Indians join our party, in + order to make war on the Esquimaux at the Copper + River--Preparations made for that purpose while at + Clowey--Proceed on our journey to the North--Some remarks on the + way--Cross Cogead Lake on the ice--The sun did not set--Arrive + at Congecathawhachaga--Find several Copper Indians + there--Remarks and transactions during our stay at + Congecathawhachaga--Proceed on our journey--Weather very + bad--Arrive at the Stoney Mountains--Some account of them--Cross + part of Buffalo Lake on the ice--Saw many musk-oxen--Description + of them--Went with some Indians to view Grizzlebear Hill--Join a + strange Northern Indian Leader, called O'lye, in company with + some Copper Indians--Their behaviour to me--Arrive at the + Copper-mine River 133 + + CHAP. VI. + + Transactions at the Copper-mine River, and till we joined all + the Women to the South of Cogead Lake. + + Some Copper Indians join us--Indians send three spies down the + river--Begin my survey--Spies return, and give an account of + five tents of Esquimaux--Indians consult the best method to + steal on them in the night, and {xv} kill them while + asleep--Cross the river--Proceedings of the Indians as they + advance towards the Esquimaux tents--The Indians begin the + massacre while the poor Esquimaux are asleep, and slay them + all--Much affected at the sight of one young woman killed close + to my feet--The behaviour of the Indians on this occasion--Their + brutish treatment of the dead bodies--Seven more tents seen on + the opposite side of the river--The Indians harass them, till + they fly to a shoal in the river for safety--Behaviour of the + Indians after killing those Esquimaux--Cross the river, and + proceed to the tents on that side--Plunder their tents, and + destroy their utensils--Continue my survey to the river's + mouth--Remarks there--Set out on my return--Arrive at one of the + Copper-mines--Remarks on it--Many attempts made to induce the + Copper Indians to carry their own goods to market--Obstacles to + it--Villany and cruelty of Keelshies to some of those poor + Indians--Leave the Copper-mine, and walk at an amazing rate till + we join the women, by the side of Cogead Whoie--Much + foot-foundered--The appearance very alarming, but soon changes + for the better--Proceed to the southward, and join the remainder + of the women and children--Many other Indians arrive with them + 173 + + CHAP. VII. + + Remarks from the Time the Women joined us till our Arrival at + the Athapuscow Lake. + + Several of the Indians sick--Methods used by the conjurors to + relieve one man, who recovers--Matonabbee and his crew proceed + to the South West--Most of the other Indians separate, and go + their respective ways--Pass by White Stone Lake--Many deer + killed merely for their skins--Remarks thereon, and on the deer, + respecting seasons and places--Arrive at Point Lake--One of the + Indian's wives being sick, is left behind to perish + above-ground--Weather very bad, but deer plenty--Stay some time + at Point Lake to dry meat, &c.--Winter set in--Superstitious + customs observed by my companions, after they had killed the + Esquimaux at Copper River--A violent gale of wind oversets my + tent and breaks my quadrant--Some Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians + join us--Indians propose to go to the Athapuscow Country to kill + moose--Leave Point Lake, and arrive at the wood's edge--Arrive + at Anawd Lake--Transactions there--Remarkable instance of a man + being cured of the palsey by the conjurors--Leave Anawd + Lake--Arrive at the great Athapuscow Lake 209 + + {xvi} CHAP. VIII. + + Transactions and Remarks from our Arrival on the South Side of + the Athapuscow Lake, till our Arrival at Prince of Wales's Fort + on Churchill River. + + Cross the Athapuscow Lake--Description of it and its + productions, as far as could be discovered in Winter, when the + snow was on the ground--Fish found in the lake--Description of + the buffalo; of the moose or elk, and the method of dressing + their skins--Find a woman alone that had not seen a human face + for more than seven months--Her account how she came to be in + that situation; and her curious method of procuring a + livelihood--Many of my Indians wrestled for her--Arrive at the + Great Athapuscow River--Walk along the side of the River for + several days, and then strike off to the Eastward--Difficulty in + getting through the woods in many places--Meet with some strange + Northern Indians on their return from the Fort--Meet more + strangers, whom my companions plundered, and from whom they took + one of their young women--Curious manner of life which those + strangers lead, and the reason they gave for roving so far from + their usual residence--Leave the fine level country of the + Athapuscows, and arrive at the Stony Hills of the Northern + Indian Country--Meet some strange Northern Indians, one of whom + carried a letter for me to Prince of Wales's Fort, in March one + thousand seven hundred and seventy-one, and now gave me an + answer to it, dated twentieth of June following--Indians begin + preparing wood-work and birch-rind for canoes--The equinoctial + gale very severe--Indian method of running the moose deer down + by speed of foot--Arrival at Theeleyaza River--See some + strangers--The brutality of my companions--A tremendous gale and + snow-drift--Meet with more strangers; remarks on it--Leave all + the elderly people and children, and proceed directly to the + Fort--Stop to build canoes, and then advance--Several of the + Indians die through hunger, and many others are obliged to + decline the journey for want of ammunition--A violent storm and + inundation, that forced us to the top of a high hill, where we + suffered great distress for more than two days--Kill several + deer--The Indians' method of preserving the flesh without the + assistance of salt--See several Indians that were going to + Knapp's Bay--Game of all kinds remarkably plentiful--Arrive at + the Factory 252 + + {xvii} CHAP. IX. + + A short Description of the Northern Indians, also a farther + Account of their Country, Manufactures, Customs, &c. + + An account of the persons and tempers of the Northern + Indians--They possess a great deal of art and cunning--Are very + guilty of fraud when in their power, and generally exact more + for their furs than any other tribe of Indians--Always + dissatisfied, yet have their good qualities--The men in general + jealous of their wives--Their marriages--Girls always betrothed + when children, and their reasons for it--Great care and + confinement of young girls from the age of eight or nine + years--Divorces common among those people--The women are less + prolific than in warmer countries--Remarkable piece of + superstition observed by the women at particular periods--Their + art in making it an excuse for a temporary separation from their + husbands on any little quarrel--Reckoned very unclean on those + occasions--The Northern Indians frequently, for the want of + firing, are obliged to eat their meat raw--Some through + necessity obliged to boil it in vessels made of the rind of the + birch-tree--A remarkable dish among those people--The young + animals always cut out of their dams, eaten, and accounted a + great delicacy--The parts of generation of all animals eat by + the men and boys--Manner of passing their time, and method of + killing deer in Summer with bows and arrows--Their tents, dogs, + sledges, &c.--Snow-shoes--Their partiality to domestic + vermin--Utmost extent of the Northern Indian country--Face of + the country--Species of fish--A peculiar kind of moss useful + for the support of man--Northern Indian method of catching fish, + either with hooks or nets--Ceremony observed when two parties of + those people meet--Diversions in common use--A singular disorder + which attacks some of those people--Their superstition with + respect to the death of their friends--Ceremony observed on + those occasions--Their ideas of the first inhabitants of the + world--No form of religion among them--Remarks on that + circumstance--The extreme misery to which old age is + exposed--Their opinion of the _Aurora Borealis_, &c.--Some + account of Matonabbee, and his services to his country, as well + as to the Hudson's Bay Company 297 + + {xviii} CHAP. X. + + An Account of the principal Quadrupeds found in the Northern + Parts of Hudson's Bay: The Buffalo, Moose, Musk-ox, Deer, and + Beaver--A capital Mistake cleared up respecting the We-was-kish. + + Animals with Canine Teeth: The Wolf--Foxes of various + colours--Lynx, or Wild Cat--Polar, or White Bear--Black + Bear--Brown Bear--Wolverene--Otter--Jackash--Wejack--Skunk--Pine + Martin--Ermine, or Stote. + + Animals with cutting Teeth: The Musk Beaver--Porcupine--Varying + Hare--American Hare--Common Squirrel--Ground Squirrel--Mice of + various kinds--and the Castor Beaver. + + The Pinnated Quadrupeds with finlike Feet, found in Hudson's + Bay, are but three in number, viz.: The Walrus, or + Sea-Horse--Seal--and Sea-Unicorn. + + * * * * * + + The Species of Fish found in the Salt Water of Hudson's Bay are + also few in number: being the Black Whale--White + Whale--Salmon--and Kepling. + + Shell-fish, and empty Shells of several kinds, found on the Sea + Coast near Churchill River. + + * * * * * + + Frogs of various sizes and colours; also a great variety of + Grubbs, and other Insects, always found in a frozen state during + Winter, but when exposed to the heat of a slow fire, are soon + re-animated. + + * * * * * + + An account of some of the principal Birds found in the Northern + Parts of Hudson's Bay; as well those that only migrate there in + Summer, as those that are known to brave the coldest Winters: + Eagles of various kinds--Hawks of various sizes and + plumage--White or Snowy Owl--Grey or mottled + Owl--Cob-a-dee-cooch--Raven--Cinerious Crow--Wood Pecker--Ruffed + Grouse--Pheasant--Wood Partridge--Willow Partridge--Rock + Partridge--Pigeon--Red-breasted Thrush--Grosbeak--Snow + Bunting--White-crowned Bunting--Lapland Finch, two + sorts--Lark--Titmouse--Swallow--Martin--Hopping Crane--Brown + Crane--Bitron--Carlow, two sorts--Jack Snipe--Red + Godwart--Plover--Black Gullemet--Northern Diver--Black-throated + Diver--Red-throated Diver--White Gull--Grey + Gull--Black-head--Pelican--Goosander--Swans of two + species--Common {xix} Grey Goose--Canada Goose--White or Snow + Goose--Blue Goose--Horned Wavy--Laughing Goose--Barren + Goose--Brent Goose--Dunter Goose--Bean Goose. + + The species of Water-Fowl usually called Duck, that resort to + those Parts annually, are in great variety; but those that are + most esteemed are, the Mallard Duck--Long-tailed Duck--Wigeon, + and Teal. + + * * * * * + + Of the Vegetable Productions as far North as Churchill River, + particularly the most useful; such as the Berry-bearing Bushes, + &c.: Gooseberry--Cranberry--Heathberry--Dewater-berry--Black + Currans--Juniper-berry--Partridge-berry--Strawberry--Eye-berry-- + Blue-berry--and a small species of Hips. + + Burridge--Coltsfoot--Sorrel--Dandelion. + + Wish-a-capucca--Jackashey-puck--Moss of various sorts--Grass of + several kinds--and Vetches. + + The Trees found so far North near the Sea, consist only of + Pines--Juniper--Small Poplar--Bush-willows--and Creeping Birch + 335 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +For many years it was the opinion of all ranks of people, that the +Hudson's Bay Company were averse to making discoveries of every kind; +and being content with the profits of their small capital, as it was +then called, did not want to increase their trade. What might have been +the ideas of former members of the Company respecting the first part of +these charges I cannot say, but I am well assured that they, as well as +the present members, have always been ready to embrace every plausible +plan for extending the trade. As a proof of this assertion, I need only +mention the vast sums of money which they have expended at different +times in endeavouring to establish fisheries, though without success: +and the following Journey, together with the various attempts made by +Bean, Christopher, Johnston, and Duncan,[13] to find a North West +passage, are recent proofs that the present members are as desirous of +making discoveries, as they are of extending their trade. + +That air of mystery, and affectation of secrecy, perhaps, which formerly +attended some of the Company's proceedings in the Bay, might give rise +to those conjectures; and the unfounded assertions and unjust aspersions +of Dobbs, {xxii} Ellis, Robson, Dragge, and the American Traveller,[14] +the only Authors that have written on Hudson's Bay, and who have all, +from motives of interest or revenge, taken a particular pleasure in +arraigning the conduct of the Company, without having any real knowledge +of their proceedings, or any experience in their service, on which to +found their charges, must have contributed to confirm the public in that +opinion. Most of those Writers, however, advance such notorious +absurdities, that none except those who are already prejudiced against +the Company can give them credit.[B] + +Robson, from his six years' residence in Hudson's Bay and in the +Company's service, might naturally have been supposed to know something +of the climate and soil immediately round the Factories at which he +resided; but the whole of his book is evidently written with prejudice, +and dictated by a spirit of revenge, because his romantic and +inconsistent schemes were rejected by the Company. Besides, it is well +known that Robson was no more than a tool in the hand of Mr. Dobbs. + +The American Traveller, though a more elegant writer, has still less +claim to our indulgence, as his assertions are {xxiii} a greater tax on +our credulity. His saying that he discovered several large lumps of the +finest virgin copper[C] is such a palpable falsehood that it needs no +refutation. No man, either English or Indian, ever found a bit of copper +in that country to the South of the seventy-first degree of +latitude,[16] unless it had been accidentally dropped by some of the far +Northern Indians in their way to the Company's Factory. + +The natives who range over, rather than inhabit, the large tract of land +which lies to the North of Churchill River, having repeatedly brought +samples of copper to the Company's Factory, many of our people +conjectured that it was found not far from our settlements; and as the +Indians informed them that the mines were not very distant from a large +river, it was generally supposed that this river must empty itself into +Hudson's Bay; as they could by no means think that any set of people, +however wandering their manner of life might be, could ever traverse so +large a tract of country as to pass the Northern boundary of that Bay, +and particularly without the assistance of water-carriage. The following +Journal, however, will show how much those people have been mistaken, +and prove also the improbability of putting their favourite scheme of +mining into practice. + +{xxiv} The accounts of this grand River, which some have turned into a +Strait, together with the samples of copper, were brought to the +Company's Factory at Churchill River immediately after its first +establishment, in the year one thousand seven hundred and fifteen; and +it does not appear that any attempts were made to discover either the +river or mines till the year one thousand seven hundred and nineteen, +when the Company fitted out a ship, called the _Albany Frigate_, Captain +George Barlow,[D] and a sloop {xxv} called the _Discovery_, Captain +David Vaughan. The sole command of this expedition, however, was given +to Mr. James Knight, a man of great experience in the Company's service, +who had been many years Governor at the different Factories in the Bay, +and who had made the first settlement at Churchill River. +Notwithstanding the experience Mr. Knight might have had of the +Company's business, and his knowledge of those parts of the Bay where he +had resided, it cannot be supposed he was well acquainted with the +nature of the business in which he then engaged, having nothing to +direct him but the slender and imperfect accounts which he had received +from the Indians, who at that time were little known, and less +understood. + +{xxvi} Those disadvantages, added to his advanced age, he being then +near eighty, by no means discouraged this bold adventurer; who was so +prepossessed of his success, and of the great advantage that would arise +from his discoveries, that he procured, and took with him, some large +iron-bound chests, to hold gold dust and other valuables, which he +fondly flattered himself were to be found in those parts. + +The first paragraph of the Company's Orders to Mr. Knight on this +occasion appears to be as follows: + + "_To_ CAPTAIN JAMES KNIGHT. + "_4th June, 1719._ + + "SIR, + + "From the experience we have had of your abilities in the + management of our affairs, we have, upon your application to us, + fitted out the _Albany_ frigate, Captain George Barlow, and the + _Discovery_, Captain David Vaughan, Commander, upon a discovery + to the Northward; and to that end have given you power and + authority to act and do all things relating to the said voyage, + the navigation of the said ship and sloop only excepted; and + have given orders and instructions to our said Commanders for + that purpose. + + "You are, with the first opportunity of wind and weather, to + depart from Gravesend on your intended {xxvii} voyage, and by + God's permission, to find out the Straits of Anian, in order to + discover gold and other valuable commodities to the Northward, + &c. &c." + +Mr. Knight soon left Gravesend, and proceeded on his voyage; but the +ship not returning to England that year, as was expected, it was judged +that she had wintered in Hudson's Bay; and having on board a good stock +of provisions, a house in frame, together with all necessary mechanics, +and a great assortment of trading goods, little or no thoughts were +entertained of their not being in safety; but as neither ship nor sloop +returned to England in the following year, (one thousand seven hundred +and twenty), the Company were much alarmed for their welfare; and, by +their ship which went to Churchill in the year one thousand seven +hundred and twenty-one, they sent orders for a sloop called the +_Whale-Bone_, John Scroggs Master, to go in search of them; but the ship +not arriving in Churchill till late in the year, those orders could not +be put in execution till the Summer following (one thousand seven +hundred and twenty-two). + +The North West coast of Hudson's Bay being little known in those days, +and Mr. Scroggs finding himself greatly embarrassed with shoals and +rocks, returned to Prince of Wales's Fort without making any certain +discovery respecting the above ship or sloop; for all the marks he saw +among the Esquimaux at Whale Cove scarcely {xxviii} amounted to the +spoils which might have been made from a trifling accident, and +consequently could not be considered as signs of a total shipwreck. + +The strong opinion which then prevailed in Europe respecting the +probability of a North West passage by the way of Hudson's Bay, made +many conjecture that Messrs. Knight and Barlow had found that passage, +and had gone through it into the South Sea, by the way of California. +Many years elapsed without any other convincing proof occurring to the +contrary, except that Middleton, Ellis, Bean, Christopher, and Johnston, +had not been able to find any such passage. And notwithstanding a sloop +was annually sent to the Northward on discovery, and to trade with the +Esquimaux, it was the Summer of one thousand seven hundred and +sixty-seven, before we had positive proofs that poor Mr. Knight and +Captain Barlow had been lost in Hudson's Bay. + +The Company were now carrying on a black whale fishery, and Marble +Island was made the place of rendezvous, not only on account of the +commodiousness of the harbour, but because it had been observed that the +whales were more plentiful about that island than on any other part of +the coast. This being the case, the boats, when on the look-out for +fish, had frequent occasion to row close to the island, by which means +they discovered a new harbour near the East end of it, at the head +{xxix} of which they found guns, anchors, cables, bricks, a smith's +anvil, and many other articles, which the hand of time had not defaced, +and which being of no use to the natives, or too heavy to be removed by +them, had not been taken from the place in which they were originally +laid. The remains of the house, though pulled to pieces by the Esquimaux +for the wood and iron, are yet very plain to be seen, as also the hulls, +or more properly speaking, the bottoms of the ship and sloop, which lie +sunk in about five fathoms water, toward the head of the harbour. The +figure-head of the ship, and also the guns, &c. were sent home to the +Company, and are certain proofs that Messrs. Knight and Barlow had been +lost on that inhospitable island, where neither stick nor stump was to +be seen, and which lies near sixteen miles from the main land. Indeed +the main is little better, being a jumble of barren hills and rocks, +destitute of every kind of herbage except moss and grass; and at that +part, the woods are several hundreds of miles from the sea-side. + +In the Summer of one thousand seven hundred and sixty-nine, while we +were prosecuting the fishery, we saw several Esquimaux at this new +harbour; and perceiving that one or two of them were greatly advanced in +years, our curiosity was excited to ask them some questions concerning +the above ship and sloop, which we were the better enabled to do by the +assistance of an Esquimaux, who was then in the Company's service as a +linguist, and annually sailed in one of their vessels in that character. +The {xxx} account which we received from them was full, clear, and +unreserved, and the sum of it was to the following purport: + +When the vessels arrived at this place (Marble Island) it was very late +in the Fall, and in getting them into the harbour, the largest received +much damage; but on being fairly in, the English began to build the +house, their number at that time seeming to be about fifty. As soon as +the ice permitted, in the following Summer, (one thousand seven hundred +and twenty), the Esquimaux paid them another visit, by which time the +number of the English was greatly reduced, and those that were living +seemed very unhealthy. According to the account given by the Esquimaux +they were then very busily employed, but about what they could not +easily describe, probably in lengthening the long-boat; for at a little +distance from the house there is now lying a great quantity of oak +chips, which have been most assuredly made by carpenters. + +Sickness and famine occasioned such havock among the English, that by +the setting in of the second Winter their number was reduced to twenty. +That Winter (one thousand seven hundred and twenty) some of the +Esquimaux took up their abode on the opposite side of the harbour to +that on which the English had built their houses,[E] and {xxxi} +frequently supplied them with such provisions as they had, which chiefly +consisted of whale's blubber and seal's flesh and train oil. When the +Spring advanced, the Esquimaux went to the continent, and on their +visiting Marble Island again, in the Summer of one thousand seven +hundred and twenty-one, they only found five of the English alive, and +those were in such distress for provisions that they eagerly eat the +seal's flesh and whale's blubber quite raw, as they purchased it from +the natives. This disordered them so much, that three of them died in a +few days, and the other two, though very weak, made a shift to bury +them. Those two survived many days after the rest, and frequently went +to the top of an adjacent rock, and earnestly looked to the South and +East, as if in expectation of some vessels coming to their relief. After +continuing there a considerable time together, and nothing appearing in +sight, they sat down close together, and wept bitterly. At length one of +the two died, and the other's strength was so far exhausted, that he +fell down and died also, in attempting to dig a grave for his companion. +The {xxxii} sculls and other large bones of those two men are now lying +above-ground close to the house. The longest liver was, according to the +Esquimaux account, always employed in working of iron into implements +for them; probably he was the armourer, or smith. + +Some Northern Indians who came to trade at Prince of Wales's Fort in the +Spring of the year one thousand seven hundred and sixty-eight, brought +farther accounts of the grand river, as it was called, and also several +pieces of copper, as samples of the produce of the mine near it; which +determined Mr. Norton, who was then Governor at Churchill, to represent +it to the Company as an affair worthy of their attention; and as he went +that year to England, he had an opportunity of laying all the +information he had received before the Board, with his opinion thereon, +and the plan which he thought most likely to succeed in the discovery of +those mines. In consequence of Mr. Norton's representations, the +Committee resolved to send an intelligent person by land to observe the +longitude and latitude of the river's mouth, to make a chart of the +country he might walk through, with such remarks as occurred to him +during the Journey; when I was pitched on as a proper person to conduct +the expedition. By the ship that went to Churchill in the Summer of one +thousand seven hundred and sixty-nine, the Company sent out some +astronomical instruments, very portable, and fit for such observations +as they required me {xxxiii} to make, and at the same time requested me +to undertake the Journey, promising to allow me at my return, a gratuity +proportionable to the trouble and fatigue I might undergo in the +expedition.[F] + +{xxxiv} I did not hesitate to comply with the request of the Company, +and in the November following, when some Northern Indians came to trade, +Mr. Norton, who was then returned to the command of Prince of Wales's +Fort, engaged such of them for my guides as he thought were most likely +to answer the purpose; but none of them had been at this grand river. I +was fitted out with everything thought necessary, and with ammunition to +serve two years. I was to be accompanied by two of the Company's +servants, two of the Home-guard[G] (Southern) Indians, {xxxv} and a +sufficient number of Northern Indians to carry and haul my baggage, +provide for me, &c. But for the better stating this arrangement, it will +not be improper to insert my Instructions, which, with some occasional +remarks thereon, will throw much light on the following Journal, and be +the best method of proving how far those orders have been complied with, +as well as shew my reasons for neglecting some parts as unnecessary, and +the impossibility of putting other parts of them in execution. + + "ORDERS _and_ INSTRUCTIONS _for_ Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE, _going on an + Expedition by Land towards the Latitude 70 deg. North, in order to + gain a Knowledge of the Northern Indians Country, &c. on Behalf + of the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company, in the Year 1769_. + + "Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE, + + "SIR, + + "Whereas the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company have been informed + by the report from Indians, that there is a great probability of + considerable advantages to be expected from a better knowledge + of their country by us, than what hitherto has been obtained; + and as it is the Company's earnest desire to embrace every + circumstance that may tend to the benefit of the said Company, + or the Nation at large, they have requested you to conduct this + Expedition; and as you {xxxvi} have readily consented to + undertake the present Journey, you are hereby desired to proceed + as soon as possible, with William Isbester sailor, and Thomas + Merriman landsman, as companions, they both being willing to + accompany you; also two of the Home-guard Southern Indians, who + are to attend and assist you during the Journey; and Captain + Chawchinahaw, his Lieutenant Nabyah, and six or eight of the + best Northern Indians we can procure, with a small part of their + families, are to conduct you, provide for you, and assist you + and your companions in every thing that lays in their power, + having particular orders so to do. + + "2dly, Whereas you and your companions are well fitted-out with + every thing we think necessary, as also a sample of light + trading goods; these you are to dispose of by way of presents + (and not by way of trade) to such far-off Indians as you may + meet with, and to smoke your Calimut[H] of Peace with their + leaders, in order to establish a friendship with them. You are + also to persuade them as much as possible from going to war with + each other, to encourage them to exert themselves in procuring + furrs and other articles for trade, and to assure them of good + payment for them at the Company's Factory. + + "It is sincerely recommended to you and your companions to treat + the natives with civility, so as not to give {xxxvii} them any + room for complaint or disgust, as they have strict orders not to + give you the least offence, but are to aid and assist you in any + matter you may request of them for the benefit of the + undertaking. + + "If any Indians you may meet, that are coming to the Fort, + should be willing to trust you with either food or clothing, + make your agreement for those commodities, and by them send me a + letter, specifying the quantity of each article, and they shall + be paid according to your agreement. And, according to the + Company's orders, you are to correspond with me, or the Chief at + Prince of Wales's Fort for the time being, at all opportunities: + And as you have mathematical instruments with you, you are to + send me, or the Chief for the time being, an account of what + latitude and longitude you may be in at such and such periods, + together with the heads of your proceedings; which accounts are + to be remitted to the Company by the return of their ships.[I] + + "3dly, The Indians who are now appointed your guides, are to + conduct you to the borders of the Athapuscow[J] Indians country, + where Captain Matonabbee {xxxviii} is to meet you[K] in the + Spring of one thousand seven hundred and seventy, in order to + conduct you to a river represented by the Indians to abound with + copper ore, animals of the furr kind, &c., and which is said to + be so far to the Northward, that in the middle of the Summer the + Sun does not set, and is supposed by the Indians to empty itself + into some ocean. This river, which is called by the Northern + Indians Neetha-san-san-dazey, or the Far Off Metal River, you + are, if possible, to trace to the mouth, and there determine the + latitude and longitude as near as you can; but more particularly + so if you find it navigable, and that a settlement can be made + there with any degree of safety, or benefit to the Company. + + "Be careful to observe what mines are near the river, what water + there is at the river's mouth, how far the woods are from the + sea-side, the course of the river, the nature of the soil, and + the productions of it; and make any other remarks that you may + think will be either necessary or satisfactory. And if the said + river be likely to be of any utility, take possession of it on + behalf of the Hudson's Bay Company, by cutting your {xxxix} name + on some of the rocks, as also the date of the year, month, + &c.[L] + + "When you attempt to trace this or any other river, be careful + that the Indians are furnished with a sufficient number of + canoes for trying the depth of water, the strength of the + current, &c. If by any unforeseen accident or disaster you + should not be able to reach the before-mentioned river, it is + earnestly recommended to you, if possible, to know the event of + Wager Strait;[M] for it is represented by the last discoverers + to terminate in small rivers and lakes. See how far the woods + are from the navigable parts of it; and whether a settlement + could with any propriety be made there. If this should prove + unworthy of notice, you are to take the same method with Baker's + Lake, which is the head of {xl} Bowden's or Chesterfield's + Inlet;[N] as also with any other rivers you may meet with; and + if likely to be of any utility, you are to take possession of + them, as before mentioned, on the behalf of the Honourable + Hudson's Bay Company. The draft of Bowden's Inlet and Wager + Strait I send with you, that you may have a better idea of those + places, in case of your visiting them. + + "4thly, Another material point which is recommended to you, is + to find out, if you can, either by your own travels, or by + information from the Indians, whether there is a passage through + this continent.[O] It will be {xli} very useful to clear up this + point, if possible, in order to prevent farther doubts from + arising hereafter respecting a passage out of Hudson's Bay[P] + into the Western Ocean, as hath lately been represented by the + American Traveller. The particulars of those remarks you are to + insert in your Journal, to be remitted home to the Company. + + "If you should want any supplies of ammunition, or other + necessaries, dispatch some trusty Indians to the Fort with a + letter, specifying the quantity of each article, and appoint a + place for the said Indians to meet you again. + + "When on your return, if at a proper time of the year, and you + should be near any of the harbours that are frequented by the + brigantine _Charlotte_, or the sloop _Churchill_, during their + voyage to the Northward, and you should chuse to return in one + of them, you are desired to make frequent smokes as you approach + those harbours, and they will endeavour to receive you by making + smokes in answer to yours; and as one thousand seven hundred and + seventy-one will probably be the year in which you will return, + the Masters of those vessels at that period shall have + particular orders on that head. + + {xlii} "It will be pleasing to hear by the first opportunity, in + what latitude and longitude you meet the Leader Matonabbee, and + how far he thinks it is to the Coppermine River, as also the + probable time it may take before you can return. But in case any + thing should prevent the said Leader from joining you, according + to expectation, you are then to procure the best Indians you can + for your guides, and either add to, or diminish, your number, as + you may from time to time think most necessary for the good of + the expedition. + + "So I conclude, wishing you and your companions a continuance of + health, together with a prosperous Journey, and a happy return + in safety. Amen. + + "MOSES NORTON, Governor. + + "Dated at Prince of Wales's Fort, Churchill River, Hudson's + "Bay, North America, November 6th, 1769." + +Isbester and Merriman, mentioned in my Instructions, actually +accompanied me during my first short attempt; but the Indians knowing +them to be but common men, used them so indifferently, particularly in +scarce times, that I was under some apprehensions of their being starved +to death, and I thought myself exceedingly happy when I got them safe +back to the Factory. This extraordinary behaviour of the Indians made me +determine not to take any Europeans with me on my two last expeditions. + +{xliii} With regard to that part of my Instructions which directs me to +observe the nature of the soil, the productions thereof, &c., it must be +observed, that during the whole time of my absence from the Fort, I was +invariably confined to stony hills and barren plains all the Summer, and +before we approached the woods in the Fall of the year, the ground was +always covered with snow to a considerable depth; so that I never had an +opportunity of seeing any of the small plants and shrubs to the +Westward. But from appearances, and the slow and dwarfy growth of the +woods, &c. (except in the Athapuscow country), there is undoubtedly a +greater scarcity of vegetable productions than at the Company's most +Northern Settlement; and to the Eastward of the woods, on the barren +grounds, whether hills or vallies, there is a total want of herbage +except moss, on which the deer feed; a few dwarf willows creep among the +moss; some wish-a-capucca and a little grass may be seen here and there, +but the latter is scarcely sufficient to serve the geese and other birds +of passage during their short stay in those parts, though they are +always in a state of migration, except when they are breeding and in a +moulting state. + +In consequence of my complying with the Company's request, and +undertaking this Journey, it is natural to suppose that every necessary +arrangement was made for the easier keeping of my reckoning, &c., under +the many inconveniences I must be unavoidably obliged to labour in such +an expedition. I drew a Map on a large skin of parchment, that contained +twelve degrees of latitude {xliv} North, and thirty degrees of longitude +West, of Churchill Factory, and sketched all the West coast of the Bay +on it, but left the interior parts blank, to be filled up during my +Journey. I also prepared detached pieces on a much larger scale for +every degree of latitude and longitude contained in the large Map. On +those detached pieces I pricked off my daily courses and distance, and +entered all lakes and rivers, &c., that I met with; endeavouring, by a +strict enquiry of the natives, to find out the communication of one +river with another, as also their connections with the many lakes with +which that country abounds: and when opportunity offered, having +corrected them by observations, I entered them in the general Map. These +and several other necessary preparations, for the easier, readier, and +more correctly keeping my Journal and Chart, were also adopted; but as +to myself, little was required to be done, as the nature of travelling +long journies in those countries will never admit of carrying even the +most common article of clothing; so that the traveller is obliged to +depend on the country he passes through, for that article, as well as +for provisions. Ammunition, useful iron-work, some tobacco, a few +knives, and other indispensable articles, make a sufficient load for any +one to carry that is going a journey likely to last twenty months, or +two years. As that was the case, I only took the shirt and clothes I +then had on, one spare coat, a pair of drawers, and as much cloth as +would make me two or three pair of Indian stockings, which, together +with a blanket for bedding, composed the whole of my stock of clothing. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[13] John Bean was master of the Company's sloop trading to Knapp's Bay +and Whale Cove in 1756 and subsequent years, but no more is known of +him. Captain Christopher was sent from Churchill in 1761 to examine +Chesterfield Inlet, and during that and the following years he explored +it to the head of Baker Lake. Magnus Johnson explored Rankin Inlet in +1764. Captain Duncan in 1791 explored Corbett's Inlet, and in the +following year made a re-examination of Chesterfield Inlet, and ascended +a short distance up Dubawnt River. + +[14] "An Account of the Countries adjoining to Hudson's Bay." By Arthur +Dobbs. London, 1774. + +"A Voyage to Hudson's Bay by the _Dobbs Galley_ and _California_ in the +Years 1746 and 1747." By Henry Ellis. London, 1748. + +"An Account of Six Years' Residence in Hudson's Bay." By Joseph Robson. +London, 1752. + +"An Account of a Voyage for the Discovery of a North-West Passage +Performed in the Years 1746 and 1747," 2 vols. By the Clerk of the +_California_ [T. S. Dragge]. London, 1748. + +"The American Traveller." By an Old and Experienced Trader [Alexander +Cluny], London, 1769. + +[B] Since the above was written, a Mr. Umfreville has published an +account of Hudson's Bay, with the same ill-nature as the former Authors; +and for no other reason than that of being disappointed in succeeding to +a command in the Bay, though there was no vacancy for him.[15] + +[15] Umfreville states (p. 3) that he entered the service of the +Hudson's Bay Company in the capacity of writer at the salary of L15 a +year, and continued in that employ eleven years. But some disagreement +arising in point of salary he quitted the service. ("The Present State +of Hudson's Bay." By Edward Umfreville. London, 1790.) + +[C] American Traveller, p. 23.[17] + +[16] As Hearne's latitudes of the Coppermine River are much too far +north, this should be changed to read "the sixty-seventh degree of +latitude." + +[17] The American Traveller is speaking of the possibility of opening up +a trade in copper, and he says that in 1744 he discovered several large +lumps of copper, but he doubtless meant that he was shown it by the +natives, or found it with them. + +[D] Captain Barlow was Governor at Albany Fort when the French went over +land from Canada to besiege it in 1704. The Canadians and their Indian +guides lurked in the neighbourhood of Albany for several days before +they made the attack, and killed many of the cattle that were grazing in +the marshes. A faithful Home-Indian, who was on a hunting excursion, +discovering those strangers, and supposing them to be enemies, +immediately returned to the Fort, and informed the Governor of the +circumstance, who gave little credit to it. However, every measure was +taken for the defence of the Fort, and orders were given to the Master +of a sloop that lay at some distance, to come to the Fort with all +possible expedition on hearing a gun fired. + +Accordingly, in the middle of the night, or rather in the morning, the +French came before the Fort, marched up to the gate, and demanded +entrance. Mr. Barlow, who was then on the watch, told them that the +Governor was asleep, but he would get the keys immediately. The French, +hearing this, expected no opposition, and flocked up to the gate as +close as they could stand. Barlow took the advantage of this +opportunity, and instead of opening the gate, only opened two port +holes, where two six-pounders stood loaded with grape shot, which were +instantly fired. This discharge killed great numbers of the French, and +among them the Commander, who was an Irishman. + +Such an unexpected reception made the remainder retire with great +precipitation; and the Master of the sloop hearing the guns, made the +best of his way up to the Fort; but some of the French who lay concealed +under the banks of the river killed him, and all the boat's crew. + +The French retired from this place with reluctance; for some of them +were heard shooting in the neighbourhood of the Fort ten days after they +were repulsed; and one man in particular walked up and down the platform +leading from the gate of the Fort to the Launch for a whole day. Mr. +Fullarton, who was then Governor at Albany, spoke to him in French, and +offered him kind quarters if he chose to accept them; but to those +proposals he made no reply, and only shook his head. Mr. Fullarton then +told him, that unless he would resign himself up as a prisoner, he would +most assuredly shoot him; on which the man advanced nearer the Fort, and +Mr. Fullarton shot him out of his chamber window. Perhaps the hardships +this poor man expected to encounter in his return to Canada, made him +prefer death; but his refusing to receive quarter from so humane and +generous an enemy as the English, is astonishing. + +[E] I have seen the remains of those houses several times; they are on +the West side of the harbour, and in all probability will be discernible +for many years to come. + +It is rather surprising, that neither Middleton, Ellis, Christopher, +Johnston, nor Garbet, who have all of them been at Marble Island, and +some of them often, ever discovered this harbour; particularly the +last-mentioned gentleman, who actually sailed quite round the island in +a very fine pleasant day in the Summer of 1766. But this discovery was +reserved for a Mr. Joseph Stephens! a man of the least merit I ever +knew, though he then had the command of a vessel called the _Success_, +employed in the whale-fishery; and in the year 1769, had the command of +the _Charlotte_ given to him, a fine brig of one hundred tons; when I +was his mate. + +[F] The conditions offered me on this occasion cannot be better +expressed than in the Company's own words, which I have transcribed from +their private letter to me, dated 25th May 1769: + +"From the good opinion we entertain of you, and Mr. Norton's +recommendation, we have agreed to raise your wages to L----[18] _per +annum_ for two years, and have placed you in our Council at Prince of +Wales's Fort; and we should have been ready to advance you to the +command of the _Charlotte_, according to your request, if a matter of +more immediate consequence had not intervened. + +"Mr. Norton has proposed an inland Journey, far to the North of +Churchill, to promote an extension of our trade, as well as for the +discovery of a North West Passage, Copper Mines, &c.; and as an +undertaking of this nature requires the attention of a person capable of +taking an observation for determining the longitude and latitude, and +also distances, and the course of rivers and their depths, we have fixed +upon you (especially as it is represented to us to be your own +inclination) to conduct this Journey, with proper assistants. + +"We therefore hope you will second our expectations in readily +performing this service, and upon your return we shall willingly make +you any acknowledgment suitable to your trouble therein. + +"We highly approve of your going in the _Speedwell_, to assist on the +whale-fishery last year, and heartily wish you health and success in the +present expedition. + +"We remain your loving Friends, + + "BIBYE LAKE, Dep. Gov. + "JOHN ANTHONY MERLE. + "ROBERT MERRY. + "SAMUEL WEGG. + "JAMES WINTER LAKE. + "HERMAN BERENS. + "JOSEPH SPURREL. + "JAMES FITZ GERALD." + +The Company had no sooner perused my Journals and Charts, than they +ordered a handsome sum to be placed to the credit of my account; and in +the two first paragraphs of their letter to me, dated 12th May 1773, +they express themselves in the following words: + + "Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE, + + "SIR,--Your letter of the 28th August last gave us the agreeable + pleasure to hear of your safe return to our Factory. Your + Journal, and the two charts you sent, sufficiently convince us + of your very judicious remarks. + + "We have maturely considered your great assiduity in the various + accidents which occurred in your several Journies. We hereby + return you our grateful thanks; and to manifest our obligation + we have consented to allow you a gratuity of L----[19] for those + services." + +As a farther proof of the Company's being perfectly satisfied with my +conduct while on that Journey, the Committee unanimously appointed me +Chief of Prince of Wales's Fort in the Summer of 1775; and Mr. Bibye +Lake, who was then Governor, and several others of the Committee, +honoured me with a regular correspondence as long as they lived. + +[18] Stated by Beckles Willson to be L130. + +[19] Stated by Beckles Willson to be L200. + +[G] By the Home-guard Indians we are to understand certain of the +natives who are immediately employed under the protection of the +Company's servants, reside on the plantation, and are employed in +hunting for the Factory.[20] + +[20] The Southern or Homeguard Indians here referred to were Crees, one +of the most numerous tribes of the Algonquian family. The Northern +Indians were Chipewyans, a tribe of the Tinne family. + +[H] The Calimut is a long ornamented stem of a pipe, much in use among +all the tribes of Indians who know the use of tobacco. It is +particularly used in all cases of ceremony, either in making war or +peace; at all public entertainments, orations, &c. + +[I] No convenient opportunity offered during my last Journey, except +one, on the 22d March 1771; and as nothing material had happened during +that part of my Journey, I thought there was not any necessity for +sending an extract of my Journal; I therefore only sent a Letter to the +Governor, informing him of my situation with respect to latitude and +longitude, and some account of the usage which I received from the +natives, &c. + +[J] By mistake in my former Journal and Draft called Arathapefcow. + +[K] This was barely probable, as Matonabbee at that time had not any +information of this Journey being set on foot, much less had he received +orders to join me at the place and time here appointed; and had we +accidentally met, he would by no means have undertaken the Journey +without first going to the Factory, and there making his agreement with +the Governor; for no Indian is fond of performing any particular service +for the English, without first knowing what is to be his reward. At the +same time, had I taken that rout on my out-set, it would have carried me +some hundreds of miles out of my road. See my Track on the Map in the +Winter 1770, and the Spring 1771. + +[L] I was not provided with instruments for cutting on stone; but for +form-sake, I cut my name, date of the year, &c., on a piece of board +that had been one of the Indian's targets, and placed it in a heap of +stones on a small eminence near the entrance of the river, on the South +side. + +[M] There is certainly no harm in making out all Instructions in the +fullest manner, yet it must be allowed that those two parts might have +been omitted with great propriety; for as neither Middleton, Ellis, nor +Christopher were able to penetrate far enough up those inlets to +discover any kind of herbage except moss and grass, much less woods, it +was not likely those parts were so materially altered for the better +since their times, as to make it worth my while to attempt a farther +discovery of them; and especially as I had an opportunity, during my +second Journey, of proving that the woods do not reach the sea-coast by +some hundreds of miles in the parallel of Chesterfield's Inlet. And as +the edge of the woods to the Northward always tends to the Westward, the +distance must be greatly increased in the latitude of Wager Strait. +Those parts have long since been visited by the Company's servants, and +are within the known limits of their Charter; consequently require no +other form of possession. + +[N] See the preceding Note. + +[O] The Continent of America is much wider than many people imagine, +particularly Robson, who thought that the Pacific Ocean was but a few +days journey from the West coast of Hudson's Bay. This, however, is so +far from being the case, that when I was at my greatest Western +distance, upward of five hundred miles from Prince of Wales's Fort, the +natives, my guides, well knew that many tribes of Indians lay to the +West of us, and they knew no end to the land in that direction; nor have +I met with any Indians, either Northern or Southern, that ever had seen +the sea to the Westward. It is, indeed, well known to the intelligent +and well-informed part of the Company's servants, that an extensive and +numerous tribe of Indians, called E-arch-e-thinnews, whose country lies +far West of any of the Company's or Canadian settlements, must have +traffic with the Spaniards on the West side of the Continent; because +some of the Indians who formerly traded to York Fort, when at war with +those people, frequently found saddles, bridles, muskets, and many other +articles, in their possession, which were undoubtedly of Spanish +manufactory. + +I have seen several Indians who have been so far West as to cross the +top of that immense chain of mountains which run from North to South of +the continent of America. Beyond those mountains all rivers run to the +Westward. I must here observe, that all the Indians I ever heard relate +their excursions in that country, had invariably got so far to the +South, that they did not experience any Winter, nor the least appearance +of either frost or snow, though sometimes they have been absent eighteen +months, or two years.[21] + +[21] In the year 1745 Anthony Hendry, under instructions from the +Hudson's Bay Company, had travelled inland from York Factory to the +upper waters of the Saskatchewan River, where he met the +E-arch-e-thinnews or Blackfeet Indians. + +[P] As to a passage through the continent of America by the way of +Hudson's Bay, it has so long been explored, notwithstanding what Mr. +Ellis has urged in its favour, and the place it has found in the +visionary Map of the American Traveller, that any comment on it would be +quite unnecessary. My latitude only will be a sufficient proof that no +such passage is in existence. + + +[Illustration: A NORTH-WEST VIEW OF PRINCE OF WALES'S FORT IN HUDSON'S +BAY, NORTH AMERICA +By Samuel Hearne, 1777] + + + + + A + JOURNEY + TO THE + NORTHERN OCEAN. + + + + +CHAP. I. + + Transactions from my leaving Prince of Wales's Fort on my first + expedition, till our arrival there again. + + _Set off from the Fort--Arrive at Po-co-ree-kis-co River--One of + the Northern Indians desert--Cross Seal River, and walk on the + barren grounds--Receive wrong information concerning the + distance of the woods--Weather begins to be very cold, + provisions all expended and nothing to be got--Strike to the + Westward, arrive at the woods, and kill three deer--Set forward + in the North West quarter, see the tracks of musk-oxen and deer, + but killed none--Very short of provisions--Chawchinahaw wants us + to return--Neither he nor his crew contribute to our + maintenance--He influences several of the Indians to + desert--Chawchinahaw and all his crew leave us--Begin our return + to the factory; kill a few partridges, the first meal we had had + for several days--Villany of one of the home Indians and his + wife, who was a Northern Indian woman--Arrive at Seal River, + kill two deer; partridges plenty--Meet a strange Northern + Indian, accompany him to his tent, usage received there; my + Indians assist in killing some beaver--Proceed toward home, and + arrive at the Fort._ + + +[Sidenote: 1769. November 6th.] + +[Sidenote: 1769. November.] + +Having made every necessary arrangement for my departure on the sixth of +November, I took leave of the Governor, and my other friends, at Prince +of Wales's Fort, and began my journey, under the salute of seven +cannon. + +[Sidenote: 8th.] + +{2} The weather at that time being very mild, made it but indifferent +hauling,[Q] and all my crew being heavy laden, occasioned us to make but +short journeys; however, on the eighth, we crossed the North branch of +Po-co-ree-kis-co River,[22] and that night put up in a small tuft of +woods, which is between it and Seal River. In the night, one of the +Northern Indians deserted; and as all the rest of my crew were heavy +laden, I was under the necessity of hauling the sledge he had left, +which however was not very heavy, as it scarcely exceeded sixty pounds. + +[Sidenote: 9th.] + +The weather still continued very fine and pleasant; we directed our +course to the West North West, and early in the day crossed Seal River. +In the course of this day's journey we met several Northern Indians, who +were going to the factory with furs and venison; and as we had not +killed any deer from our leaving the Fort, I got several joints of +venison from those strangers, and gave them a note on the Governor for +payment, which seemed perfectly agreeable to all parties. + +[Sidenote: 1769. November.] + +When on the North West side of Seal River, I asked Captain Chawchinahaw +the distance, and probable time it would take, before we could reach the +main woods; which he assured me would not exceed four or five days +journey. This put both me and my companions in good {3} spirits, and we +continued our course between the West by North and North West, in daily +expectation of arriving at those woods, which we were told would furnish +us with every thing the country affords. These accounts were so far from +being true, that after we had walked double the time here mentioned, no +signs of woods were to be seen in the direction we were then steering; +but we had frequently seen the looming of woods to the South West. + +[Sidenote: 19th.] + +The cold being now very intense, our small stock of English provisions +all expended, and not the least thing to be got on the bleak hills we +had for some time been walking on, it became necessary to strike more to +the Westward, which we accordingly did, and the next evening arrived at +some small patches of low scrubby woods, where we saw the tracks of +several deer,[23] and killed a few partridges. The road we had traversed +for many days before, was in general so rough and stony, that our +sledges were daily breaking; and to add to the inconveniency, the land +was so barren, as not to afford us materials for repairing them: but the +few woods we now fell in with, amply supplied us with necessaries for +those repairs; and as we were then enabled each night to pitch proper +tents, our lodging was much more comfortable than it had been for many +nights before, while we were on the barren grounds, where, in general, +we thought ourselves well off if we could scrape together as many shrubs +as would make a fire; but it {4} was scarcely ever in our power to make +any other defence against the weather, than by digging a hole in the +snow down to the moss, wrapping ourselves up in our clothing, and lying +down in it, with our sledges set up edgeways to windward. + +[Sidenote: 21st.] + +[Sidenote: 1769. November.] + +On the twenty-first, we did not move; so the Indian men went a hunting, +and the women cut holes in the ice and caught a few fish in a small +lake, by the side of which we had pitched our tents. At night the men +returned with some venison, having killed three deer, which was without +doubt very acceptable; but our number being great, and the Indians +having such enormous stomachs, very little was left but fragments after +the two or three first good meals. Having devoured the three deer, and +given some necessary repairs to our sledges and snow shoes, which only +took one day, we again proceeded on toward the North West by West and +West North West, through low scrubby pines,[24] intermixed with some +dwarf larch,[25] which is commonly called juniper in Hudson's Bay. In +our road we frequently saw the tracks of deer, and many musk-oxen,[26] +as they are called there; but none of my companions were so fortunate as +to kill any of them: so that a few partridges were all we could get to +live on, and those were so scarce, that we seldom could kill as many as +would amount to half a bird a day for each man; which, considering we +had nothing else for the twenty-four hours, was in reality next to +nothing. + +[Sidenote: 26th.] + +{5} By this time I found that Captain Chawchinahaw had not the +prosperity of the undertaking at heart; he often painted the +difficulties in the worst colours, took every method to dishearten me +and my European companions, and several times hinted his desire of our +returning back to the factory: but finding I was determined to proceed, +he took such methods as he thought would be most likely to answer his +end; one of which was, that of not administering toward our support; +so that we were a considerable time without any other subsistence, but +what our two home-guard (Southern) Indians procured, and the little that +I and the two European men could kill; which was very disproportionate +to our wants, as we had to provide for several women and children who +were with us. + +[Sidenote: 29th.] + +Chawchinahaw finding that this kind of treatment was not likely to +complete his design, and that we were not to be starved into compliance, +at length influenced several of the best Northern Indians to desert in +the night, who took with them several bags of my ammunition, some pieces +of iron work, such as hatchets, ice chissels, files, &c., as well as +several other useful articles. + +[Sidenote: 30th.] + +[Sidenote: 1769. November.] + +When I became acquainted with this piece of villany, I asked +Chawchinahaw the reason of such behaviour. To which he answered, that he +knew nothing of the affair: but as that was the case, it would not be +{6} prudent, he said, for us to proceed any farther; adding, that he and +all the rest of his countrymen were going to strike off another way, in +order to join the remainder of their wives and families: and after +giving us a short account which way to steer our course for the nearest +part of Seal River, which he said would be our best way homeward, he and +his crew delivered me most of the things which they had in charge, +packed up their awls, and set out toward the South West, making the +woods ring with their laughter, and left us to consider of our unhappy +situation, near two hundred miles from Prince of Wales's Fort, all +heavily laden, and our strength and spirits greatly reduced by hunger +and fatigue. + +Our situation at that time, though very alarming, would not permit us to +spend much time in reflection; so we loaded our sledges to the best +advantage (but were obliged to throw away some bags of shot and ball), +and immediately set out on our return. In the course of the day's walk +we were fortunate enough to kill several partridges, for which we were +all very thankful, as it was the first meal we had had for several days: +indeed, for the five preceding days we had not killed as much as +amounted to half a partridge for each man; and some days had not a +single mouthful. While we were in this distress, the Northern Indians +were by no means in want; for as they always walked foremost, they {7} +had ten times the chance to kill partridges, rabbits, or any other thing +which was to be met with, than we had. Beside this advantage, they had +great stocks of flour, oatmeal, and other English provisions, which they +had embezzled out of my stock during the early part of the journey; and +as one of my home Indians, called Mackachy, and his wife, who is a +Northern Indian woman, always resorted to the Northern Indians tents, +where they got amply supplied with provisions when neither I nor my men +had a single mouthful, I have great reason to suspect they had a +principal hand in the embezzlement: indeed, both the man and his wife +were capable of committing any crime, however diabolical. + +[Sidenote: 1769. December. 1st.] + +This day we had fine pleasant weather for the season of the year: we set +out early in the morning, and arrived the same day at Seal River, along +which we continued our course for several days. In our way we killed +plenty of partridges, and saw many deer; but the weather was so +remarkably serene that the Indians only killed two of the latter. By +this time game was become so plentiful, that all apprehensions of +starving were laid aside; and though we were heavily laden, and +travelled pretty good days' journeys, yet as our spirits were good, our +strength gradually returned. + +[Sidenote: 5th.] + +In our course down Seal River we met a stranger, a Northern Indian, on a +hunting excursion; and though {8} he had not met with any success that +day, yet he kindly invited us to his tent, saying he had plenty of +venison at my service; and told the Southern Indians, that as there were +two or three beaver houses near his tent, he should be glad of their +assistance in taking them, for there was only one man and three women at +the tent. + +[Sidenote: 1769. December.] + +Though we were at that time far from being in want of provisions, yet we +accepted his offer, and set off with our new guide for his tent, which, +by a comparative distance, he told us, was not above five miles from the +place where we met him, but we found it to be nearer fifteen; so that it +was the middle of the night before we arrived at it. When we drew near +the tent, the usual signal for the approach of strangers was given, by +firing a gun or two, which was immediately answered by the man at the +tent. On our arrival at the door, the good man of the house came out, +shook me by the hand, and welcomed us to his tent; but as it was too +small to contain us all, he ordered his women to assist us in pitching +our tent; and in the mean time invited me and as many of my crew as his +little habitation could contain, and regaled us with the best in the +house. The pipe went round pretty briskly, and the conversation +naturally turned on the treatment we had received from Chawchinahaw and +his gang; which was always answered by our host with, "Ah! if I had +been there, it should not have been so!" when, notwithstanding his +hospitality on the present occasion, he {9} would most assuredly have +acted the same part as the others had done, if he had been of the party. + +Having refreshed ourselves with a plentiful supper, we took leave of our +host for a while, and retired to our tent; but not without being made +thoroughly sensible that many things would be expected from me before I +finally left them. + +[Sidenote: 6th.] + +Early in the morning, my Indians assisted us in taking the beaver houses +already mentioned[27]; but the houses being small, and some of the +beavers escaping, they only killed six, all of which were cooked the +same night, and voraciously devoured under the denomination of a feast. +I also received from the Indians several joints of venison, to the +amount of at least two deer; but notwithstanding I was to pay for the +whole, I found that Mackachy and his wife got all the prime parts of the +meat; and on my mentioning it to them, there was so much clanship among +them, that they preferred making a present of it to Mackachy, to selling +it to me at double the price for which venison sells in those parts: a +sufficient proof of the singular advantage which a native of this +country has over an Englishman, when at such a distance from the +Company's Factories as to depend entirely on them for subsistence. + +[Sidenote: 7th.] + +{10} Thinking I had made my stay here long enough, I gave orders to +prepare for our departure; and as I had purchased plenty of meat for +present use while we were at this tent, so I likewise procured such a +supply to carry with us, as was likely to last us to the Fort. + +[Sidenote: 8th.] + +[Sidenote: 1769. December. 11th.] + +Early in the morning we took a final leave of our host, and proceeded on +our journey homewards. One of the strangers accompanied us, for which at +first I could not see his motive; but soon after our arrival at the +Factory, I found that the purport of his visit was to be paid for the +meat, said to be given _gratis_ to Mackachy while we were at his tent. +The weather continued very fine, but extremely cold; and during this +part of my journey nothing material happened, till we arrived safe at +Prince of Wales's Fort on the eleventh of December, to my own great +mortification, and to the no small surprise of the Governor, who had +placed great confidence in the abilities and conduct of Chawchinahaw. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Q] The colder the weather is, the easier the sledges slide over the +snow. + +[22] On modern maps this stream is known as Pauk-athakuskow River. The +Chipewyan Indians of Fort Churchill and vicinity know it by the name of +Beskai deze or Knife River, while the white people at Churchill know it +as North River. Churchill River is called by the Chipewyans 'Tsan deze, +meaning Iron or Metal River. + +[23] _Rangifer arcticus_ (Rich.).--E. A. P. + +[24] _Picea alba_ (Ait.).--E. A. P. + +[25] _Larix laricina_ (Du Roi).--E. A. P. + +[26] _Ovibos moschatus_ (Zimm.).--E. A. P. + +[27] _Castor canadensis_ Kuhl. This is the most northerly record near +the coast.--E. A. P. + + + + +{11} CHAP. II. + + Transactions from our arrival at the Factory, to my leaving it + again, and during the first part of my second journey, till I + had the misfortune to break the quadrant. + + _Transactions at the Factory--Proceed on my second + journey--Arrive at Seal River--Deer plentiful for some + time--Method of angling fish under the ice--Set our fishing + nets--Methods of setting nets under the ice--My guide proposes + to stay till the geese began to fly; his reasons accepted--Pitch + our tent in the best manner--Method of pitching a tent in + winter--Fish plentiful for some time; grow very scarce; in great + want of provisions--Manner of employing my time--My guide killed + two deer--Move to the place they were lying at; there kill + several more deer, and three beavers--Soon in want of provisions + again--Many Indians join us from the Westward--We begin to move + towards the barren ground--Arrive at She-than-nee, and there + suffer great distress for want of provisions--Indians kill two + swans and three geese--Geese and other birds of passage + plentiful--Leave She-than-nee, and arrive at Beralzone--One of + my companions guns bursts, and shatters his left hand--Leave + Beralzone, and get on the barren ground, clear of all + woods--Throw away our sledges and snow shoes--Each person takes + a load on his back; my part of the luggage--Exposed to many + hardships--Several days without victuals--Indians kill three + musk oxen, but for want of fire are obliged to eat the meat + raw--Fine weather returns; make a fire; effects of long fasting; + stay a day or two to dry some meat in the sun--Proceed to the + Northward, and arrive at Cathawhachaga; there find some tents of + Indians--A Northern leader called Keelshies meets us; send a + letter by him to the Governor--Transactions at Cathawhachaga; + leave it, and proceed to the Northward--Meet several Indians--My + guide not willing to proceed; his {12} reasons for it--Many more + Indians join us--Arrive at Doobaunt Whoie River--Manner of + ferrying over rivers in the Northern Indian canoes--No rivers in + those parts in a useful direction for the natives--Had nearly + lost the quadrant and all the powder--Some reflections on our + situation, and the conduct of the Indians--Find the quadrant and + part of the powder--Observe for the latitude--Quadrant + broke--Resolve to return again to the Factory._ + + +[Sidenote: 1770. February.] + +During my absence from Prince of Wales's Fort on my former journey, +several Northern Indians arrived in great distress at the Factory, and +were employed in shooting partridges for the use of our people at the +Fort. One of those Indians called Conne-e-quese, said he had been very +near to the famous river I was engaged to go in quest of. Accordingly +Mr. Norton engaged him and two other Northern Indians to accompany me on +this second attempt; but to avoid all incumbrances as much as possible, +it was thought advisable not to take any women,[R] that the Indians +might have fewer to provide for. I would not permit any European to go +with me, but two of the home-guard (Southern) Indian men were to +accompany me as before. Indeed the Indians, both Northern and Southern, +paid so little attention to Isbester and Merriman on my former journey, +particularly in times of scarcity, that I was determined not to take +them with me in future; though the former was very desirous to accompany +me again, and was well calculated to encounter the hardships of {13} +such an undertaking. Merriman was quite sick of such excursions, and so +far from offering his service a second time, seemed to be very thankful +that he was once more arrived in safety among his friends; for before he +got to the Factory he had contracted a most violent cold. + +Having come to the above resolutions, and finally determined on the +number of Indians that were to accompany us, we were again fitted out +with a large supply of ammunition, and as many other useful articles as +we could conveniently take with us, together with a small sample of +light trading goods, for presents to the Indians, as before. + +[Sidenote: 1770. February.] + +My instructions on this occasion amounted to no more than an order to +proceed as fast as possible; and for my conduct during the journey, I +was referred to my former instructions of November 6th, 1769. + +[Sidenote: 23rd.] + +Every thing being in readiness for our departure, on the twenty-third of +February I began my second journey, accompanied by three Northern +Indians and two of the home-guard (Southern) Indians. I took particular +care, however, that Mackachy, though an excellent hunter, should not be +of our party; as he had proved himself, during my former journey, to be +a sly artful villain. + +The snow at this time was so deep on the top of the ramparts, that few +of the cannon were to be seen, {14} otherwise the Governor would have +saluted me at my departure, as before; but as those honours could not +possibly be of any service to my expedition, I readily relinquished +everything of the kind; and in lieu of it, the Governor, officers, and +people, insisted on giving me three cheers. + +After leaving the Factory, we continued our course in much the same +direction as in my former journey, till we arrived at Seal River; when, +instead of crossing it, and walking on the barren grounds as before, we +followed the course of the river, except in two particular places, where +the bends tended so much to the South, that by crossing two necks of +land not more than five or six miles wide, we saved the walking of near +twenty miles each time, and still came to the main river again. + +[Sidenote: 1770. March. 8th.] + +The weather had been so remarkably boisterous and changeable, that we +were frequently obliged to continue two or three nights in the same +place. To make up for this inconveniency, deer were so plentiful for the +first eight or ten days, that the Indians killed as many as was +necessary; but we were all so heavy laden that we could not possibly +take much of the meat with us. This I soon perceived to be a great evil, +which exposed us to such frequent inconveniences, that in case of not +killing any thing for three or four days together, we were in great +want of provisions; we seldom, however, went to bed entirely supperless +{15} till the eighth of March; when though we had only walked about +eight miles that morning, and expended all the remainder of the day in +hunting, we could not produce a single thing at night, not even a +partridge! nor had we discerned the track of any thing that day, which +was likely to afford us hopes of better success in the morning. This +being the case, we prepared some hooks and lines ready to angle for +fish, as our tent was then by the side of a lake belonging to Seal +River, which seemed by its situation to afford some prospect of success. + +[Sidenote: 9th.] + +Early in the morning we took down our tent, and moved about five miles +to the West by South, to a part of the lake that seemed more commodious +for fishing than that where we had been the night before. As soon as we +arrived at this place, some were immediately employed cutting holes in +the ice, while others pitched the tent, got fire-wood, &c.; after which, +for it was early in the morning, those who pitched the tent went a +hunting, and at night one of them returned with a porcupine,[28] while +those who were angling caught several fine trout, which afforded us a +plentiful supper, and we had some trifle left for breakfast. + +Angling for fish under the ice in winter requires no other process, than +cutting round holes in the ice from one to two feet diameter, and +letting down a baited hook, which is always kept in motion, not only to +{16} prevent the water from freezing so soon as it would do if suffered +to remain quite still, but because it is found at the same time to be a +great means of alluring the fish to the hole; for it is always observed +that the fish in those parts will take a bait which is in motion, much +sooner than one that is at rest. + +[Sidenote: 19th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. March.] + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +Early in the morning we again pursued our angling, and all the forenoon +being expended without any success, we took down our tent and pitched it +again about eight miles farther to the Westward, on the same lake, where +we cut more holes in the ice for angling, and that night caught several +fine pike.[29] The next day we moved about five miles to the South West, +down a small river, where we pitched our tent; and having set four +fishing nets, in the course of the day we caught many fine fish, +particularly pike, trout,[30] tittymeg, and a coarse kind of fish known +in Hudson's Bay by the name of Methy.[31][S] + +To set a net under the ice, it is first necessary to ascertain its exact +length, by stretching it out upon the ice near the part proposed for +setting it. This being done, a number of round holes are cut in the ice, +at ten or twelve feet distance from each other, and as many in number as +will be sufficient to stretch the net at its full length. A line is then +passed under the ice, by means {17} of a long light pole, which is first +introduced at one of the end holes, and, by means of two forked sticks, +this pole is easily conducted, or passed from one hole to another, under +the ice, till it arrives at the last. The pole is then taken out, and +both ends of the line being properly secured, is always ready for use. +The net is made fast to one end of the line by one person, and hauled +under the ice by a second; a large stone is tied to each of the lower +corners, which serves to keep the net expanded, and prevents it rising +from the bottom with every waft of the current. The Europeans settled in +Hudson's Bay proceed much in the same manner, though they in general +take much more pains; but the above method is found quite sufficient by +the Indians. + +In order to search a net thus set, the two end holes only are opened; +the line is veered away by one person, and the net hauled from under the +ice by another; after all the fish are taken out, the net is easily +hauled back to its former station, and there secured as before. + +[Sidenote: 1770. March. 21st.] + +As this place seemed likely to afford us a constant supply of fish, my +guide proposed to stay here till the geese began to fly, which in those +Northern parts is seldom before the middle of May. His reasons for so +doing seemed well founded: "The weather," he said, "is at this time too +cold to walk on the barren grounds, and the woods from this part lead so +much {18} to the Westward, that were we to continue travelling in any +tolerable shelter, our course would not be better than West South West, +which would only be going out of our way; whereas, if we should remain +here till the weather permit us to walk due North, over the barren +grounds, we shall then in one month get farther advanced on our journey, +than if we were to continue travelling all the remainder of the winter +in the sweep of the woods." + +These reasons appeared to me very judicious, and as the plan seemed +likely to be attended with little trouble, it met with my entire +approbation. That being the case, we took additional pains in building +our tent, and made it as commodious as the materials and situation would +admit. + +[Sidenote: 1770. March.] + +To pitch an Indian's tent in winter, it is first necessary to search for +a level piece of dry ground; which cannot be ascertained but by +thrusting a stick through the snow down to the ground, all over the +proposed part. When a convenient spot is found, the snow is then cleared +away in a circular form to the very moss; and when it is proposed to +remain more than a night or two in one place, the moss is also cut up +and removed, as it is very liable when dry to take fire, and occasion +much trouble to the inhabitants. A quantity of poles are then procured, +which are generally proportioned both in number and length to the {19} +size of the tent cloth, and the number of persons it is intended to +contain. If one of the poles should not happen to be forked, two of them +are tied together near the top, then raised erect, and their buts or +lower ends extended as wide as the proposed diameter of the tent; the +other poles are then set round at equal distances from each other, and +in such order, that their lower ends form a complete circle, which gives +boundaries to the tent on all sides: the tent cloth is then fastened to +a light pole, which is always raised up and put round the poles from the +weather side, so that the two edges that lap over and form the door are +always to the leeward. It must be understood that this method is only in +use when the Indians are moving from place to place every day; for when +they intend to continue any time in one place, they always make the door +of their tent to face the south. + +The tent cloth is usually of thin Moose leather, dressed and made by the +Indians, and in shape it nearly resembles a fan-mount inverted; so that +when the largest curve incloses the bottom of the poles, the smaller one +is always sufficient to cover the top; except a hole, which is +designedly left open to serve the double purpose of chimney and window. + +The fire is always made on the ground in the center, and the remainder +of the floor, or bottom of the tent, is covered all over with small +branches of the pine tree, {20} which serve both for seats and beds. A +quantity of pine tops and branches are laid round the bottom of the +poles on the outside, over which the eaves of the tent is staked down; a +quantity of snow is then packed over all, which excludes great part of +the external air, and contributes greatly to the warmth within. The tent +here described is such as is made use of by the Southern Indians, and +the same with which I was furnished at the Factory; for that made use of +by the Northern Indians is made of different materials, and is of a +quite different shape, as shall be described hereafter. + +[Sidenote: 1770. March.] + +The situation of our tent at this time was truly pleasant,[32] +particularly for a spring residence; being on a small elevated point, +which commanded an extensive prospect over a large lake, the shores of +which abounded with wood of different kinds, such as pine, larch, birch, +and poplar; and in many places was beautifully contrasted with a variety +of high hills, that shewed their snowy summits above the tallest woods. +About two hundred yards from the tent was a fall, or rapid, which the +swiftness of the current prevents from freezing in the coldest winters. +At the bottom of this fall, which empties itself into the above lake, +was a fine sheet of open water near a mile in length, and at least half +a mile in breadth; by the margin of which we had our fishing nets set, +all in open view from the tent. + +{21} The remaining part of this month passed on without any +interruption, or material occurrence, to disturb our repose, worth +relating: our fishing nets provided us with daily food, and the Indians +had too much philosophy about them to give themselves much additional +trouble; for during the whole time not one of them offered to look for a +partridge, or anything else which could yield a change of diet. + +As the time may now be supposed to have lain heavy on my hands, it may +not be improper to inform the reader how I employed it. In the first +place, I embraced every favourable opportunity of observing the latitude +of the place, the mean of which was 58 deg. 46' 30" North; and the longitude +by account was 5 deg. 57' West, from Prince of Wales's Fort. I then +corrected my reckoning from my last observation; brought up my journal, +and filled up my chart, to the place of our residence. I built also some +traps, and caught a few martins; and by way of saving my ammunition, set +some snares for partridges. The former is performed by means of a few +logs, so arranged that when the martin attempts to take away the bait +laid for him, he with very little struggle pulls down a small post that +supports the whole weight of the trap; when, if the animal be not killed +by the weight of the logs, he is confined till he be frozen to death, or +killed by the hunter going his rounds. + +[Sidenote: 1770. April.] + +{22} To snare partridges requires no other process than making a few +little hedges across a creek, or a few short hedges projecting at right +angles from the side of an island of willows, which those birds are +found to frequent. Several openings must be left in each hedge, to admit +the birds to pass through, and in each of them a snare must be set; so +that when the partridges are hopping along the edge of the willows to +feed, which is their usual custom, some of them soon get into the +snares, where they are confined till they are taken out. I have caught +from three to ten partridges in a day by this simple contrivance; which +requires no further attendance than going round them night and morning. + +[Sidenote: 1st.] + +I have already observed that nothing material happened to disturb our +repose till the first of April, when to our great surprise the fishing +nets did not afford us a single fish. Though some of the preceding days +had been pretty successful, yet my companions, like true Indians, seldom +went to sleep till they had cleared the tent of every article of +provision. As nothing was to be caught in the nets, we all went out to +angle; but in this we were equally unsuccessful, as we could not procure +one fish the whole day. This sudden change of circumstances alarmed one +of my companions so much, that he began to think of resuming the use of +his gun, after having laid it by for near a month. + +{23} Early in the morning we arose; when my guide Conne-e-quese went a +hunting, and the rest attended the nets and hooks near home; but all +with such bad success, that we could not procure enough in one day to +serve two men for a supper. This, instead of awakening the rest of my +companions, sent them to sleep; and scarcely any of them had the +prudence to look at the fishing nets, though they were not more than two +or three hundred yards from the tent door. + +[Sidenote: 1770. April.] + +My guide, who was a steady man, and an excellent hunter, having for many +years been accustomed to provide for a large family, seemed by far the +most industrious of all my crew; he closely pursued his hunting for +several days, and seldom returned to the tent till after dark, while +those at the tent passed most of their time in smoking and sleeping. + +[Sidenote: 10th.] + +Several days passed without any signs of relief, till the 10th, when my +guide continued out longer than ordinary, which made us conjecture that +he had met with strangers, or seen some deer, or other game, which +occasioned his delay. We all therefore lay down to sleep, having had but +little refreshment for the three preceding days, except a pipe of +tobacco and a draught of water; even partridges had become so scarce +that not one was to be got; the heavy thaws had driven them all out +towards the barren grounds. About midnight, to our {24} great joy, our +hunter arrived, and brought with him the blood and fragments of two deer +that he had killed. This unexpected success soon roused the sleepers, +who, in an instant, were busily employed in cooking a large kettle of +broth, made with the blood, and some fat and scraps of meat shred small, +boiled in it. This might be reckoned a dainty dish at any time, but was +more particularly so in our present almost famished condition. + +[Sidenote: 11th.] + +After partaking of this refreshment, we resumed our rest, and early in +the morning set out in a body for the place where the deer were lying. +As we intended to make our stay but short, we left our tent standing, +containing all our baggage. On our arrival at the place of destination, +some were immediately employed in making a hut or barrocado with young +pine trees; while one man skinned the deer, the remainder went a +hunting, and in the afternoon returned to the hut, after having killed +two deer. + +Several days were now spent in feasting and gluttony; during which the +Indians killed five more deer and three fine beavers; finding at last, +however, that there was little prospect of procuring either more deer or +beavers, we determined to return to our tent, with the remains of what +we had already obtained. + +[Sidenote: 1770. April. 22d.] + +The flesh of these deer, though none of the largest, might with +frugality have served our small number, (being {25} only six) for some +time; but my companions, like other Indians, feasted day and night while +it lasted; and were so indolent and unthinking, as not to attend +properly to the fishing nets; so that many fine fish, which had been +entangled in the nets, were entirely spoiled, and in about twelve or +fourteen days we were nearly in as great distress for provisions as +ever. + +During the course of our long inactivity, Saw-sop-o-kishac, commonly +called Sossop, my principal Southern Indian, as he was cutting some +birch for spoons, dishes, and other necessary household furniture, had +the misfortune to cut his leg in such a manner as to be incapable of +walking; and the other Southern Indian, though a much younger man, was +so indolent as not to be of any service to me, except hauling part of +our luggage, and eating up part of the provisions which had been +provided by the more industrious part of my companions. + +[Sidenote: 24th.] + +On the twenty-fourth, early in the day, a great body of Indians was seen +in the South West, on the large lake by the side of which our tent +stood. On their arrival at our tent we discovered them to be the wives +and families of the Northern Indian goose-hunters, who were gone to +Prince of Wales's Fort to attend the season. They were bound toward the +barren ground, there to wait the return of their husbands and relations +from the Fort, after the termination of the goose-season. + +[Sidenote: 27th.] + +{26} My guide having for some days past determined to move toward the +barren ground, this morning we took down our tent, packed up our +luggage, and proceeded to the Eastward in the same track we came; but +Sossop being so lame as to be obliged to be hauled on a sledge, I easily +prevailed on two of the Indians who had joined us on the 24th, and who +were pursuing the same road, to perform this service for him. + +[Sidenote: 1770. April. 29th.] + +[Sidenote: May. 13th.] + +After two days good walking in our old track, we arrived at a part of +Seal River called She-than-nee,[33] where we pitched our tent and set +both our fishing-nets, intending to stay there till the geese began to +fly. Though we had seen several swans and some geese flying to the +Northward, it was the thirteenth of May before we could procure any. On +that day the Indians killed two swans and three geese. This in some +measure alleviated our distress, which at that time was very great; +having had no other subsistence for five or six days, than a few +cranberries, that we gathered from the dry ridges where the snow was +thawed away in spots; for though we set our fishing-nets in the best +judged places, and angled at every part that was likely to afford +success, we only caught three small fish during the whole time. Many of +the Northern Indians, who had joined us on the 24th of April, remained +in our company for some time; and though I well knew they had had a +plentiful winter, and had then good stocks of dried meat by them, and +{27} were also acquainted with our distress, they never gave me or my +Southern companions the least supply, although they had in secret amply +provided for our Northern guides. + +[Sidenote: 19th.] + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. May.] + +By the nineteenth, the geese, swans, ducks, gulls, and other birds of +passage, were so plentiful, that we killed every day as many as were +sufficient for our support; and having stopped a few days to recruit our +spirits after so long a fast, on the twenty-third we began once more to +proceed toward the barren ground. Sossop having now perfectly recovered +from his late misfortune, everything seemed to have a favourable +appearance; especially as my crew had been augmented to twelve persons, +by the addition of one of my guide's wives, and five others, whom I had +engaged to assist in carrying our luggage; and I well knew, from the +season of the year, that hauling would soon be at an end for the summer. + + +The thaws having been by this time so great as to render travelling in +the woods almost impracticable, we continued our course to the East on +Seal River, about sixteen miles farther, when we came to a small river, +and a string of lakes connected with it, that tended to the North. + +[Sidenote: June. 1st.] + +The weather for some time was remarkably fine and pleasant. Game of all +kinds was exceedingly plentiful, {28} and we continued our course to the +Northward on the above river and lakes till the first of June, when we +arrived at a place called Beralzone.[34] In our way thither, beside +killing more geese than was necessary, we shot two deer. One of my +companions had now the misfortune to shatter his hand very much by the +bursting of a gun; but as no bones were broken, I bound up the wound, +and with the assistance of some of Turlington's drops, yellow basilicon, +&c., which I had with me, soon restored the use of his hand; so that in +a very short time he seemed to be out of all danger. + +[Sidenote: 4th.] + +After stopping a few days at Beralzone, to dry a little venison and a +few geese, we again proceeded to the Northward on the barren ground; for +on our leaving this place we soon got clear of all the woods. + +[Sidenote: 5th.] + +[Sidenote: 6th.] + +[Sidenote: 10th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. June.] + +The snow was by this time so soft as to render walking in snow-shoes +very laborious; and though the ground was bare in many places, yet at +times, and in particular places, the snow-drifts were so deep, that we +could not possibly do without them. By the sixth, however, the thaws +were so general, and the snows so much melted, that as our snow-shoes +were attended with more trouble than service, we all consented to throw +them away. Till the tenth, our sledges proved serviceable, particularly +in crossing lakes and ponds on the ice; but that mode of travelling now +growing dangerous on account of the great thaws, we {29} determined to +throw away our sledges, and every one to take a load on his back. + +This I found to be much harder work than the winter carriage, as my part +of the luggage consisted of the following articles, viz. the quadrant +and its stand, a trunk containing books, papers, &c., a land-compass, +and a large bag containing all my wearing apparel; also a hatchet, +knives, files, &c., beside several small articles, intended for presents +to the natives. The awkwardness of my load, added to its great weight, +which was upward of sixty pounds, and the excessive heat of the weather, +rendered walking the most laborious task I had ever encountered; and +what considerably increased the hardship, was the badness of the road, +and the coarseness of our lodging, being, on account of the want of +proper tents, exposed to the utmost severity of the weather. The tent we +had with us was not only too large, and unfit for barren ground service, +where no poles were to be got, but we had been obliged to cut it up for +shoes, and each person carried his own share. Indeed my guide behaved +both negligently and ungenerously on this occasion; as he never made me, +or my Southern Indians, acquainted with the nature of pitching tents on +the barren ground; which had he done, we could easily have procured a +set of poles before we left the woods. He took care, however, to procure +a set for himself and his wife; and when the tent was divided, though he +made shift to get a piece large enough to serve him for {30} a complete +little tent, he never asked me or my Southern Indians to put our heads +into it. + +Beside the inconvenience of being exposed to the open air, night and +day, in all weathers, we experienced real distress from the want of +victuals. When provisions were procured, it often happened that we could +not make a fire, so that we were obliged to eat the meat quite raw; +which at first, in the article of fish particularly, was as little +relished by my Southern companions as myself. + +[Sidenote: 1770. June.] + +Notwithstanding these accumulated and complicated hardships, we +continued in perfect health and good spirits; and my guide, though a +perfect niggard of his provisions, especially in times of scarcity, gave +us the strongest assurance of soon arriving at a plentiful country, +which would not only afford us a certain supply of provisions, but where +we should meet with other Indians, who probably would be willing to +carry part of our luggage. This news naturally gave us great +consolation; for at that time the weight of our constant loads was so +great, that when Providence threw any thing in our way, we could not +carry above two days provisions with us, which indeed was the chief +reason of our being so frequently in want. + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +From the twentieth to the twenty-third we walked every day near twenty +miles, without any other subsistence {31} than a pipe of tobacco, and a +drink of water when we pleased: even partridges and gulls, which some +time before were in great plenty, and easily procured, were now so +scarce and shy, that we could rarely get one; and as to geese, ducks, +&c., they had all flown to the Northward to breed and molt. + +[Sidenote: 1770. June.] + +Early in the morning of the twenty-third, we set out as usual, but had +not walked above seven or eight miles before we saw three musk-oxen +grazing by the side of a small lake. The Indians immediately went in +pursuit of them; and as some of them were expert hunters, they soon +killed the whole of them. This was no doubt very fortunate; but, to our +great mortification, before we could get one of them skinned, such a +fall of rain came on, as to put it quite out of our power to make a +fire; which, even in the finest weather, could only be made of moss, as +we were near an hundred miles from any woods. This was poor comfort for +people who had not broke their fast for four or five days. Necessity, +however, has no law; and having been before initiated into the method of +eating raw meat, we were the better prepared for this repast: but this +was by no means so well relished, either by me or the Southern Indians, +as either raw venison or raw fish had been: for the flesh of the musk-ox +is not only coarse and tough, but smells and tastes so strong of musk as +to make it very disagreeable when raw, though it is tolerable eating +when properly cooked. The weather continued so {32} remarkably bad, +accompanied with constant heavy rain, snow, and sleet, and our +necessities were so great by the time the weather permitted us to make a +fire, that we had nearly eat to the amount of one buffalo quite raw. + +Notwithstanding I mustered up all my philosophy on this occasion, yet I +must confess that my spirits began to fail me. Indeed our other +misfortunes were greatly aggravated by the inclemency of the weather, +which was not only cold, but so very wet that for near three days and +nights, I had not one dry thread about me. When the fine weather +returned, we made a fire, though it was only of moss, as I have already +observed; and having got my cloaths dry, all things seemed likely to go +on in the old channel, though that was indifferent enough; but I +endeavoured, like a sailor after a storm, to forget past misfortunes. + +[Sidenote: 1770. June.] + +None of our natural wants, if we except thirst, are so distressing, or +hard to endure, as hunger; and in wandering situations, like that which +I now experienced, the hardship is greatly aggravated by the uncertainty +with respect to its duration, and the means most proper to be used to +remove it, as well as by the labour and fatigue we must necessarily +undergo for that purpose, and the disappointments which too frequently +frustrate our best concerted plans and most strenuous exertions: it not +only enfeebles the body, but depresses the spirits, in spite of {33} +every effort to prevent it. Besides, for want of action, the stomach so +far loses its digestive powers, that after long fasting it resumes its +office with pain and reluctance. During this journey I have too +frequently experienced the dreadful effects of this calamity, and more +than once been reduced to so low a state by hunger and fatigue, that +when Providence threw any thing in my way, my stomach has scarcely been +able to retain more than two or three ounces, without producing the most +oppressive pain. Another disagreeable circumstance of long fasting is, +the extreme difficulty and pain attending the natural evacuations for +the first time; and which is so dreadful, that of it none but those who +have experienced can have an adequate idea. + +To record in detail each day's fare since the commencement of this +journey, would be little more than a dull repetition of the same +occurrences. A sufficient idea of it may be given in a few words, by +observing that it may justly be said to have been either all feasting, +or all famine; sometimes we had too much, seldom just enough, frequently +too little, and often none at all. It will be only necessary to say that +we have fasted many times two whole days and nights; twice upwards of +three days; and once, while at She-than-nee, near seven days, during +which we tasted not a mouthful of anything, except a few cranberries, +water, scraps of old leather, and burnt bones. On those pressing +occasions I have frequently seen the Indians examine their wardrobe, +{34} which consisted chiefly of skin-clothing, and consider what part +could best be spared; sometimes a piece of an old, half-rotten deer +skin, and at others a pair of old shoes, were sacrificed to alleviate +extreme hunger. The relation of such uncommon hardships may perhaps gain +little credit in Europe; while those who are conversant with the history +of Hudson's Bay, and who are thoroughly acquainted with the distress +which the natives of the country about it frequently endure, may +consider them as no more than the common occurrences of an Indian life, +in which they are frequently driven to the necessity of eating one +another.[T] + +[Sidenote: 1770. June.] + +[Sidenote: 26th.] + +[Sidenote: 30th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. July.] + +{35} Knowing that our constant loads would not permit us to carry much +provisions with us, we agreed to continue a day or two to refresh +ourselves, and to dry a little meat in the sun, as it thereby not only +becomes more portable, but is always ready for use. On the twenty-sixth, +all that remained of the musk-ox flesh being properly dried and fit for +carriage, we began to proceed on our journey Northward, and on the +thirtieth of June arrived at a small river, called Cathawhachaga,[35] +which empties itself into a large lake called Yath-kyed-whoie,[36] or +White Snow Lake. Here we found several tents of Northern Indians, who +had been some time employed spearing deer in their canoes, as they +crossed the above mentioned little river. Here also we met a Northern +Indian Leader, or Captain, called Keelshies, and a small party of his +crew, who were bound to Prince of Wales's Fort, with furs {36} and other +commodities for trade. When Keelshies was made acquainted with the +intent of my journey, he readily offered his service to bring me +anything from the Factory that we were likely to stand in need of; and +though we were then in latitude 63 deg. 4' North, and longitude 7 deg. 12' West +from Churchill, yet he promised to join us again, at a place appointed +by my guide, by the setting in of the Winter. In consequence of this +offer, I looked over our ammunition and other articles; and finding that +a little powder, shot, tobacco, and a few knives were likely to be of +service before the journey could be completed, I determined to send a +letter to the governor of Prince of Wales's Fort, to advise him of my +situation, and to desire him to send by the bearer a certain quantity of +the above articles; on which Keelshies and his crew proceeded on their +journey for the Factory the same day. + +[Illustration: MAP OF YATH-KYED LAKE AND PART OF KAZAN RIVER +By J. B. Tyrrell, 1894] + +[Sidenote: 1770. July.] + +Cathawhachaga was the only river we had seen since the breaking up of +the ice that we could not ford; and as we had not any canoes with us, we +were obliged to get ferried across by the strange Indians. When we +arrived on the North side of this river, where the Indians resided, my +guide proposed to stop some time, to dry and pound some meat to take +with us; to which I readily consented. We also set our fishing-nets, and +caught a considerable quantity of very fine fish; such as tittemeg, +barble,[37] &c. + +[Sidenote: 6th.] + +{37} The number of deer which crossed Cathawhachaga, during our stay +there, was by no means equal to our expectations, and no more than just +sufficient to supply our present wants; so that after waiting several +days in fruitless expectation, we began to prepare for moving; and +accordingly, on the sixth of July, we set out, though we had not at that +time as much victuals belonging to our company as would furnish us a +supper. During our stay here, we had each day got as much fish or flesh +as was sufficient for present expenditure; but, being in hopes of better +times, saved none. + +Before we left Cathawhachaga, I made several observations for the +latitude, and found it to be 63 deg. 4' North.[38] I also brought up my +journal, and filled up my chart to that time. Everything being now ready +for our departure, my guide informed me that in a few days a canoe would +be absolutely necessary, to enable us to cross some unfordable rivers +which we should meet, and could not avoid. This induced me to purchase +one at the easy rate of a single knife, the full value of which did not +exceed one penny. It must be observed, that the man who sold the canoe +had no farther occasion for it, and was glad to take what he could get; +but had he been thoroughly acquainted with our necessities, he most +assuredly would have had the conscience to have asked goods to the +amount of ten beaver skins at least. + +[Sidenote: 1770. July.] + +[Sidenote: 9th.] + +{38} This additional piece of luggage obliged me to engage another +Indian; and we were lucky enough at that time to meet with a poor +forlorn fellow, who was fond of the office, having never been in a much +better state than that of a beast of burthen. Thus, provided with a +canoe, and a man to carry it, we left Cathawhachaga, as has been +observed, on the sixth of July, and continued our course to the North by +West, and North North West; and that night put up by the side of a small +bay of White Snow Lake,[39] where we angled, and caught several fine +trout, some of which weighed not less than fourteen or sixteen pounds. +In the night heavy rain came on, which continued three days; but the +ninth proving fine weather, and the sun displaying his beams very +powerfully, we dried our clothes, and proceeded to the Northward. Toward +the evening, however, it began again to rain so excessively, that it was +with much difficulty we kept our powder and books dry. + +[Sidenote: 17th.] + +On the seventeenth, we saw many musk-oxen, several of which the Indians +killed; when we agreed to stay here a day or two, to dry and pound[U] +some of the carcases to take with us. The flesh of any animal, when it +is thus prepared, is not only hearty food, but is always ready for {39} +use, and at the same time very portable. In most parts of Hudson's Bay +it is known by the name of Thew-hagon,[40] but amongst the Northern +Indians it is called Achees. + +[Sidenote: 1770. July. 22d.] + +Having prepared as much dried flesh as we could transport, we proceeded +to the Northward; and at our departure left a great quantity of meat +behind us, which we could neither eat nor carry away. This was not the +first time we had so done; and however wasteful it may appear, it is a +practice so common among all the Indian tribes, as to be thought nothing +of. On the twenty-second, we met several strangers, whom we joined in +pursuit of the deer, &c. which were at this time so plentiful, that we +got every day a sufficient number for our support, and indeed too +frequently killed several merely for the tongues, marrow, and fat. + +[Sidenote: 30th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. August.] + +After we had been some time in company with those Indians, I found that +my guide seemed to hesitate about proceeding any farther; and that he +kept pitching his tent backward and forward, from place to place, after +the deer, and the rest of the Indians. On my asking him his reason for +so doing; he answered, that as the year was too far advanced to admit of +our arrival at the Coppermine River that Summer, he thought it more +advisable to pass the Winter with some of the Indians then in company, +and alleged that there could be no fear of our arriving at that river +early in the Summer of one thousand seven hundred and seventy-one. As I +could not {40} pretend to contradict him, I was entirely reconciled to +his proposal; and accordingly we kept moving to the Westward with the +other Indians. In a few days, many others joined us from different +quarters; so that by the thirtieth of July we had in all above seventy +tents, which did not contain less than six hundred persons. Indeed our +encampment at night had the appearance of a small town; and in the +morning, when we began to move, the whole ground (at least for a large +space all round) seemed to be alive, with men, women, children, and +dogs. Though the land was entirely barren, and destitute of every kind +of herbage, except wish-a-capucca[V] and moss, yet the deer were so +numerous that the Indians not only killed as many as were sufficient for +our large number, but often several merely for the skins, marrow, &c. +and left the carcases to rot, or to be devoured by the wolves, foxes, +and other beasts of prey. + +[Illustration: MAP OF DUBAWNT LAKE AND PART OF DUBAWNT RIVER +By J. B. and J. W. Tyrrell, 1893] + +In our way to the Westward we came to several rivers, which, though +small and of no note, were so deep as not to be fordable, particularly +Doobaunt River.[W] On those occasions only, we had recourse to our +canoe, which, though of the common size, was too small to carry more +{41} than two persons; one of whom always lies down at full length for +fear of making the canoe top-heavy, and the other sits on his heels and +paddles. This method of ferrying over rivers, though tedious, is the +most expeditious way these poor people can contrive; for they are +sometimes obliged to carry their canoes one hundred and fifty, or two +hundred miles, without having occasion to make use of them; yet at times +they cannot do without them; and were they not very small and portable, +it would be impossible for one man to carry them, which they are often +obliged to do, not only the distance above mentioned, but even the whole +Summer. + +[Sidenote: 1770. August. 6th.] + +[Sidenote: 8th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. August.] + +The person I engaged at Cathawhachaga to carry my canoe proving too weak +for the task, another of my crew was obliged to exchange loads with him, +which seemed perfectly agreeable to all parties; and as we walked but +short days' journies, and deer were very plentiful, all things went on +very smoothly. Nothing material happened till the eighth, when we were +near losing the quadrant and all our powder from the following +circumstance: the fellow who had been released from carrying the canoe +proving too weak, as hath been already observed, had, after the +exchange, nothing to carry but my powder and his own trifles; the latter +were indeed very inconsiderable, not equal in size and weight to a +soldier's knapsack. As I intended to have a little sport with the deer, +and knowing his load to be much lighter than mine, I gave him the +quadrant {42} and stand to carry, which he took without the least +hesitation, or seeming ill-will. Having thus eased myself for the +present of a heavy and cumbersome part of my load, I set out early in +the morning with some of the Indian men; and after walking about eight +or nine miles, saw, from the top of a high hill, a great number of deer +feeding in a neighbouring valley; on which we laid down our loads and +erected a flag, as a signal for the others to pitch their tents there +for the night. We then pursued our hunting, which proved very +successful. At night, however, when we came to the hill where we had +left our baggage, I found that only part of the Indians had arrived, and +that the man who had been entrusted with my powder and quadrant, had set +off another way, with a small party of Indians that had been in our +company that morning. The evening being far advanced, we were obliged to +defer going in search of him till the morning, and as his track could +not be easily discovered in the Summer, the Southern Indians, as well as +myself, were very uneasy, fearing we had lost the powder, which was to +provide us with food and raiment the remainder of our journey. The very +uncourteous behaviour of the Northern Indians then in company, gave me +little hopes of receiving assistance from them, any longer than I had +wherewithal to reward them for their trouble and expense; for during the +whole time I had been with them, not one of them had offered to give me +the least morsel of victuals, without asking something in exchange, +which, in general, was three times the value of {43} what they could +have got for the same articles, had they carried them to the Factory, +though several hundred miles distant. + +So inconsiderate were those people, that wherever they met me, they +always expected that I had a great assortment of goods to relieve their +necessities; as if I had brought the Company's warehouse with me. Some +of them wanted guns; all wanted ammunition, iron-work, and tobacco; many +were solicitous for medicine; and others pressed me for different +articles of clothing; but when they found I had nothing to spare, except +a few nick-nacks and gewgaws, they made no scruple of pronouncing me a +"poor servant, noways like the Governor at the Factory, who, they said, +they never saw, but he gave them something useful." It is scarcely +possible to conceive any people so void of common understanding, as to +think that the sole intent of my undertaking this fatiguing journey, was +to carry a large assortment of useful and heavy implements, to give to +all that stood in need of them; but many of them would ask me for what +they wanted with the same freedom, and apparently with the same hopes of +success, as if they had been at one of the Company's Factories. Others, +with an air of more generosity, offered me furs to trade with at the +same standard as at the Factory; without considering how unlikely it was +that I should increase the enormous weight of my load with articles +which could be of no more use to me in my present situation than they +were to themselves. + +[Sidenote: 1770. August.] + +{44} This unaccountable behaviour of the Indians occasioned much serious +reflection on my part; as it showed plainly how little I had to expect +if I should, by any accident, be reduced to the necessity of depending +upon them for support; so that, though I laid me down to rest, sleep was +a stranger to me that night. The following beautiful lines of Dr. Young +I repeated above an hundred times: + + "Tired Nature's sweet restorer, balmy Sleep; + He, like the world, his ready visit pays + Where fortune smiles; the wretched he forsakes: + Swift on his downy pinions flies from woe, + And lights on lids unsully'd with a tear." + + --NIGHT THOUGHTS. + +[Sidenote: 9th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. August.] + +After passing the night in this melancholy manner, I got up at daybreak, +and, with the two Southern Indians, set out in quest of our deserter. +Many hours elapsed in fruitless search after him, as we could not +discover a single track in the direction which we were informed he had +taken. The day being almost spent without the least appearance of +success, I proposed repairing to the place where I had delivered the +quadrant to him, in hopes of seeing some track in the moss that might +lead to the way the Indians were gone whom our deserter had accompanied. +On our arrival at that place, we found they had struck down toward a +little river which they had crossed the morning before; and there, to +our great joy, we found the quadrant and the bag of powder lying on the +top of a high stone, but not a human being was to be seen. On {45} +examining the powder, we found that the bag had been opened, and part of +it taken out; but, notwithstanding our loss was very considerable, we +returned with light hearts to the place at which we had been the night +before, where we found our baggage safe, but all the Indians gone; they +had, however, been so considerate as to set up marks to direct us what +course to steer. By the time we had adjusted our bundles, the day was +quite spent; seeing, however, a smoke, or rather a fire, in the +direction we were ordered to steer, we bent our way towards it; and a +little after ten o'clock at night came up with the main body of the +Indians; when, after refreshing ourselves with a plentiful supper, the +first morsel we had tasted that day, we retired to rest, which I at +least enjoyed with better success than the preceding night. + +[Sidenote: 11th.] + +In the morning of the eleventh we proceeded on to the West, and West by +South; but on the twelfth did not move. This gave us an opportunity of +endeavouring to ascertain the latitude by a meridian altitude, when we +found the place to be in 63 deg. 10' North nearly. It proving rather cloudy +about noon, though exceeding fine weather, I let the quadrant stand, in +order to obtain the latitude more exactly by two altitudes; but, to my +great mortification, while I was eating my dinner, a sudden gust of wind +blew it down; and as the ground where it stood was {46} very stoney, the +bubble, the sight-vane, and vernier, were entirely broke to pieces, +which rendered the instrument useless. In consequence of this misfortune +I resolved to return again to the Fort, though we were then in the +latitude of 63 deg. 10' North, and about 10 deg. 40' West longitude from +Churchill River.[43] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[R] This was a proposal of the Governor's, though he well knew we could +not do without their assistance, both for hauling our baggage, as well +as dressing skins for clothing, pitching our tent, getting firing, &c. + +[28] _Erethizon dorsatum_ (Linn.). Near the extreme northern limit in +this quarter.--E. A. P. + +[29] _Esox lucius_ Linn.--E. A. P. + +[30] _Cristivomer namaycush_ Walbaum.--E. A. P. + +[31] _Lota maculosa_ (Le Sueur).--E. A. P. + +[S] The Methy are generally caught with a hook; and the best time for +that sport is in the night; and if the night be dark, the better. + +[32] He appears to have been camped at the rapid at the head or western +end of Shethnanei Lake, which, according to the best information at +present available, is about latitude 58 deg. 37' and longitude 4 deg. west from +Prince of Wales Fort. + +[33] She-than-nee is clearly the same word as _Shethnanei_, a Chipewyan +word meaning "high hill," and applied to a point on the north shore of +Shethnanei Lake. In February 1891, the Rev. J. (Bishop) Lofthouse +visited some Indians living at this place, accomplishing the journey out +from Churchill in seven days, and the return journey in six days. + +[34] _Beralzoa_ means Shoal Lake. + +[T] It is the general opinion of the Southern Indians, that when any of +their tribe has been driven to the necessity of eating human flesh, they +become so fond of it, that no person is safe in their company. And +though it is well known they are never guilty of making this horrid +repast but when driven to it by necessity, yet those who have made it +are not only shunned, but so universally detested by all who know them, +that no Indians will tent with them, and they are frequently murdered +slyly. I have seen several of those poor wretches who, unfortunately for +them, have come under the above description, and though they were +persons much esteemed before hunger had driven them to this act, were +afterward so universally despised and neglected, that a smile never +graced their countenances: deep melancholy has been seated on their +brows, while the eye most expressively spoke the dictates of the heart, +and seemed to say, "Why do you despise me for my misfortunes? the period +is probably not far distant, when you may be driven to the like +necessity!" + +In the Spring of the year 1775, when I was building Cumberland House, an +Indian, whose name was Wapoos, came to the settlement, at a time when +fifteen tents of Indians were on the plantations: they examined him very +minutely, and found he had come a considerable way by himself, without a +gun, or ammunition. This made many of them conjecture he had met with, +and killed, some person by the way; and this was the more easily +credited, from the care he took to conceal a bag of provisions, which he +had brought with him, in a lofty pine-tree near the house. + +Being a stranger, I invited him in, though I saw he had nothing for +trade; and during that interview, some of the Indian women examined his +bag, and gave it as their opinion that the meat it contained was human +flesh: in consequence, it was not without the interference of some +principal Indians, whose liberality of sentiment was more extensive than +that in the others, the poor creature saved his life. Many of the men +cleaned and loaded their guns; others had their bows and arrows ready; +and even the women took possession of the hatchets, to kill this poor +inoffensive wretch, for no crime but that of travelling about two +hundred miles by himself, unassisted by fire-arms for support in his +journey. + +[35] After leaving Lake Beralzoa, and before reaching Cathawhachaga +River, he had crossed Thlewiaza or Little Fish River, Magnus Lake, and +several other lakes and streams which are probably tributaries of the +Tha-anne or Rocky-Bank River. Cathawhachaga is evidently the Kazan River +which I descended in 1894, and it is interesting to note that while, in +Hearne's time, it was within the hunting grounds of the Chipewyan +Indians, at the time of my visit, one hundred and twenty-four years +later, these Indians had left it, and its banks were inhabited entirely +by Eskimos. Hearne doubtless crossed the river four miles above its +discharge into Yath-kyed Lake, at a place called by the Eskimos +Paleluah, where the stream is deep and narrow, and has but a moderate +current. This is a well-known crossing place for the caribou on their +annual migrations from the forest to the Arctic Coast and back again, +and the Eskimos wait to spear them while they are swimming across the +stream, just as the Indians doubtless waited when they occupied this +country. Its position is in latitude 62 deg. 36' north, 28' south of the +position assigned to it by Hearne in the text, and the longitude 4 deg. 6' +west of Fort Prince of Wales. His map does not here agree with his +description, but places this crossing of the Kazan River in latitude 62 deg. +40' north, very nearly in its true position. Cathawhachaga is a +Chipewyan word meaning "where fish are plentiful in the river." + +[36] Yath-kyed or White Snow Lake, at present known to the Eskimos as +Haecoliguah. + +[37] Whitefish, suckers, &c. + +[38] See note on p. 87. + +[39] The bay of Yath-kyed Lake, at which they seem to have stopped, is +about eight miles north of Paleluah, where the river was crossed. + +[U] To prepare meat in this manner, it requires no farther operation +than cutting the lean parts of the animal into thin slices, and drying +it in the sun, or by a slow fire, till, after beating it between two +stones, it is reduced to a coarse powder. + +[40] Thewhagon or Yewuhikun is the Cree name for meat dried and beaten +as above, and it is generally known throughout the fur countries as +"pounded meat." When fat is plentiful this shredded dry meat is often +packed into a sack made of hide, and boiling fat is poured over and into +it. This mixture of dried meat and grease is called pemican. + +[V] Wish-a-capucca is the name given by the natives to a plant which is +found all over the country bordering on Hudson's Bay; and an infusion of +it is used as tea by all the Europeans settled in that country.[41] + +[41] This plant, _Ledum palustre_, commonly known as Labrador Tea, is +common everywhere in the swamps throughout the forests of the north. + +[W] This river, as well as all others deserving that appellation which I +crossed during this part of my journey, ran to the East and North-East; +and both them and the lakes were perfectly fresh, and inhabited by fish +that are well known never to frequent salt water.[42] + +[42] The brief description of this portion of his journey here given +leaves his course quite indefinite, but his map shows that he travelled +northward to the west of Yath-kyed Lake, across Nutarawit River, and +thence around the north side of Napashish (Nutarawit) Lake, and westward +to within a short distance of the south shore of Aberdeen Lake. Thence +he turned south-westward until he reached Dubawnt River, where it flows +from Dubawnt Lake. It is there a beautiful stream of clear water flowing +between gently sloping grassy banks. The latitude of this place is 63 deg. +33' north, while on his map it is shown as 63 deg. 38' north. As the +latitudes of the crossing places of Kazan and Dubawnt Rivers, shown on +his map, though differing greatly from his text, are very nearly +correct, we may fairly assume that his intermediate positions are also +reasonably accurate, and that his northern point of this journey, which +he places in latitude 64 deg. 20', is not far from correct. + +Dubawnt (properly To' bon') is a Chipewyan word meaning +"water-along-the-shore." It is so called because the main body of the +lake is at all seasons of the year covered with ice, though for a few +days, or possibly weeks, in summer this ice is loosened from the shore, +and there is a lane of water between the ice and the land. + +[43] The position of the place where he broke his quadrant on the 12th +of August is difficult to determine either from the text or from his +map. A point in latitude 63 deg. 10' north and longitude 10 deg. 40' west from +Churchill, which is the position given in the text, is shown on his map +almost in the centre of Dubawnt Lake, and the map shows that after +crossing the outlet of the lake his course was at a considerable +distance to the north-west and west from it. It is probable therefore +that his quadrant was broken on the great plain which lies to the west +of the lake, and north-west of the Dubawnt River above the lake. + + + + +{47} CHAP. III. + + Transactions from the Time the Quadrant was broken, till I + arrived at the Factory + + _Several strange Indians join us from the Northward--They + plundered me of all I had; but did not plunder the Southern + Indians--My guide plundered--We begin our return to the + Factory--Meet with other Indians, who join our company--Collect + deer-skins for clothing, but could not get them dressed--Suffer + much hardship from the want of tents and warm clothing--Most of + the Indians leave us--Meet with Matonabbee--Some account of him, + and his behaviour to me and the Southern Indians--We remain in + his company some time--His observations on my two unsuccessful + attempts--We leave him, and proceed to a place to which he + directed us, in order to make snow-shoes and sledges--Join + Matonabbee again, and proceed towards the Factory in his + company--Ammunition runs short--Myself and four Indians set off + post for the Factory--Much bewildered in a snow storm; my dog is + frozen to death; we lie in a bush of willows--Proceed on our + journey--Great difficulty in crossing a jumble of rocks--Arrive + at the Fort._ + + +[Sidenote: 1770. August. 13th.] + +The day after I had the misfortune to break the quadrant, several +Indians joined me from the Northward, some of whom plundered me and my +companions of almost every useful article we had, among which was my +gun; and notwithstanding we were then on the point of returning to the +Factory, yet, as one of my companions' guns was a little out of order, +the loss was likely to be {48} severely felt; but it not being in my +power to recover it again, we were obliged to rest contented. + +[Sidenote: 1770. August.] + +Nothing can exceed the cool deliberation of those villains; a committee +of them entered my tent.[X] The ringleader seated himself on my +left-hand. They first begged me to lend them my skipertogan[Y] to fill a +pipe of tobacco. After smoking two or three pipes, they asked me for +several articles which I had not, and among others for a pack of cards; +but on my answering that I had not any of the articles they mentioned, +one of them put his hand on my baggage, and asked if it was mine. Before +I could answer in the affirmative, he and the rest of his companions +(six in number) had all my treasure spread on the ground. One took one +thing, and another another, till at last nothing was left but the empty +bag, which they permitted me to keep. At length, considering that, +though I was going to the Factory, I should want a knife to cut my +victuals, an awl to mend my shoes, and a needle to mend my other +clothing, they readily gave me these articles, though not without making +me understand that I ought to look upon {49} it as a great favour. +Finding them possessed of so much generosity, I ventured to solicit them +for my razors; but thinking that one would be sufficient to shave me +during my passage home, they made no scruple to keep the other; luckily +they chose the worst. To complete their generosity, they permitted me to +take as much soap as I thought would be sufficient to wash and shave me +during the remainder of my journey to the Factory. + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. B. Tyrrell, August 12, 1893._ +CAMP ON THE SHORE OF DUBAWNT LAKE] + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. B. Tyrrell, August 18, 1893._ +DUBAWNT RIVER BELOW DUBAWNT LAKE WHERE HEARNE CROSSED THE RIVER IN JULY +1770] + +[Sidenote: 1770. August.] + +They were more cautious in plundering the Southern Indians, as the +relation of such outrages being committed on them might occasion a war +between the two nations; but they had nothing of that kind to dread from +the English. However, the Northern Indians had address enough to talk my +home-guard Indians out of all they had: so that before we left them, +they were as clean swept as myself, excepting their guns, some +ammunition, an old hatchet, an ice-chissel, and a file to sharpen them. + +It may probably be thought strange that my guide, who was a Northern +Indian, should permit his countrymen to commit such outrages on those +under his charge; but being a man of little note, he was so far from +being able to protect us, that he was obliged to submit to nearly the +same outrage himself. On this occasion he assumed a great air of +generosity; but the fact was, he gave freely what it was not in his +power to protect. + +[Sidenote: 19th.] + +{50} Early in the morning of the nineteenth, I set out on my return, in +company with several Northern Indians, who were bound to the Factory +with furrs and other commodities in trade. This morning the Indian who +took my gun, returned it to me, it being of no use to him, having no +ammunition. The weather for some time proved fine, and deer were very +plentiful; but as the above ravagers had materially lightened my load, +by taking everything from me, except the quadrant, books, &c., this part +of my journey was the easiest and most pleasant of any I had experienced +since my leaving the Fort. In our way we frequently met with other +Indians, so that scarcely a day passed without our seeing several smokes +made by other strangers. Many of those we met joined our party, having +furrs and other commodities for trade. + +[Sidenote: 31st.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. September.] + +The deer's hair being now of a proper length for clothing, it was +necessary, according to the custom, to procure as many of their skins, +while in season, as would make a suit of warm clothing for the Winter: +and as each grown person requires the prime parts of from eight to +eleven of those skins (in proportion to their size) to make a complete +suit, it must naturally be supposed that this addition to my burden was +very considerable. My load, however cumbersome and heavy, was yet very +bearable; but, after I had carried it several weeks, it proved of no +service; for we had not any women properly belonging to our company, +consequently had not any {51} person to dress them; and so uncivil were +the other Indians, that they would neither exchange them for others of +an inferior quality already dressed, nor permit their women to dress +them for us, under pretence that they were always employed in the like +duty for themselves and families, which was by no means the case; for +many of them had sufficient time to have done every little service of +that kind that we could have required of them. The truth was, they were +too well informed of my poverty to do any acts of generosity, as they +well knew I had it not then in my power to reward them for their +trouble. I never saw a set of people that possessed so little humanity, +or that could view the distresses of their fellow-creatures with so +little feeling and unconcern; for though they seem to have a great +affection for their wives and children, yet they will laugh at and +ridicule the distress of every other person who is not immediately +related to them. + +[Sidenote: 15th.] + +This behaviour of the Indians made our situation very disagreeable; for +as the fall advanced, we began to feel the cold very severely for want +of proper clothing. We suffered also greatly from the inclemency of the +weather, as we had no tent to shelter us. My guide was entirely exempted +from all those inconveniences, having procured a good warm suit of +clothing; and as one of his wives had long before joined our party, he +was provided with a tent, and every other necessary consistent {52} with +their manner of living: but the old fellow was so far from interesting +himself in our behalf, that he had, for some time before, entirely +withdrawn from our company; and though he then continued to carry the +greatest part of our little remains of ammunition, yet he did not +contribute in the smallest degree towards our support. As deer, however, +were in great plenty, I felt little or no inconvenience from his neglect +in this respect. + +[Sidenote: 17th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. September.] + +Provisions still continued very plentiful; which was a singular piece of +good fortune, and the only circumstance which at this time could +contribute to our happiness or safety; for notwithstanding the early +season of the year, the weather was remarkably bad and severely cold, at +least it appeared so to us, probably from having no kind of +skin-clothing. In this forlorn state we continued our course to the +South East; and, to add to the gloominess of our situation, most of the +Northern Indians who had been in our company all the first part of the +fall, were by this time gone a-head, as we could not keep up with them +for want of snow-shoes. + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +In the evening of the twentieth, we were joined from the Westward by a +famous Leader, called Matonabbee, mentioned in my instructions; who, +with his followers, or gang, was also going to Prince of Wales's Fort, +with furrs, and other articles for trade. This Leader, when a youth, +resided several years at the above Fort, and was {53} not only a perfect +master of the Southern Indian language, but by being frequently with the +Company's servants, had acquired several words of English, and was one +of the men who brought the latest accounts of the Coppermine River; and +it was on his information, added to that of one I-dot-le-ezey, (who is +since dead), that this expedition was set on foot. + +[Sidenote: 1770. October.] + +The courteous behaviour of this stranger struck me very sensibly. As +soon as he was acquainted with our distress, he got such skins as we had +with us dressed for the Southern Indians, and furnished me with a good +warm suit of otter and other skins: but, as it was not in his power to +provide us with snow-shoes, (being then on the barren ground), he +directed us to a little river which he knew, and where there was a small +range of woods, which, though none of the best, would, he said, furnish +us with temporary snow-shoes and sledges, that might materially assist +us during the remaining part of our journey. We spent several nights in +company with this Leader, though we advanced towards the Fort at the +rate of ten or twelve miles a day; and as provisions abounded, he made a +grand feast for me in the Southern Indian style, where there was plenty +of good eating, and the whole concluded with singing and dancing, after +the Southern Indian style and manner. In this amusement my home-guard +Indians bore no inconsiderable part, as they were both men of some {54} +consequence when at home, and well known to Matonabbee: but among the +other Northern Indians, to whom they were not known, they were held in +no estimation; which indeed is not to be wondered at, when we consider +that the value of a man among those people, is always proportioned to +his abilities in hunting; and as my two Indians had not exhibited any +great talents that way, the Northern Indians shewed them as much respect +as they do in common to those of very moderate talents among themselves. + +During my conversation with this Leader, he asked me very seriously, If +I would attempt another journey for the discovery of the Copper-mines? +And on my answering in the affirmative, provided I could get better +guides than I had hitherto been furnished with, he said he would readily +engage in that service, provided the Governor at the Fort would employ +him. In answer to this, I assured him his offer would be gladly +accepted; and as I had already experienced every hardship that was +likely to accompany any future trial, I was determined to complete the +discovery, even at the risque of life itself. Matonabbee assured me, +that by the accounts received from his own countrymen, the Southern +Indians, and myself, it was very probable I might not experience so much +hardship during the whole journey, as I had already felt, though +scarcely advanced one third part of the journey. + +[Sidenote: 1770. October.] + +{55} He attributed all our misfortunes to the misconduct of my guides, +and the very plan we pursued, by the desire of the Governor, in not +taking any women with us on this journey, was, he said, the principal +thing that occasioned all our wants: "for, said he, when all the men are +heavy laden, they can neither hunt nor travel to any considerable +distance; and in case they meet with success in hunting, who is to carry +the produce of their labour? Women," added he, "were made for labour; +one of them can carry, or haul, as much as two men can do. They also +pitch our tents, make and mend our clothing, keep us warm at night; and, +in fact, there is no such thing as travelling any considerable distance, +or for any length of time, in this country, without their assistance. +Women," said he again, "though they do every thing, are maintained at a +trifling expence; for as they always stand cook, the very licking of +their fingers in scarce times, is sufficient for their subsistence." +This, however odd it may appear, is but too true a description of the +situation of women in this country; it is at least so in appearance; for +the women always carry the provisions, and it is more than probable they +help themselves when the men are not present. + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +[Sidenote: 25th.] + +[Sidenote: November. 1st.] + +Early in the morning of the twenty-third, I struck out of the road to +the Eastward, with my two companions and two or three Northern Indians, +while Matonabbee and his crew continued their course to the Factory, +promising {56} to walk so slow that we might come up with them again; +and in two days we arrived at the place to which we were directed. We +went to work immediately in making snow-shoe frames and sledges; but +notwithstanding our utmost endeavours, we could not complete them in +less than four days. On the first of November we again proceeded on our +journey toward the Factory; and on the sixth, came up with Matonabbee +and his gang: after which we proceeded on together several days; when I +found my new acquaintance, on all occasions, the most sociable, kind, +and sensible Indian I had ever met with. He was a man well known, and, +as an Indian, of universal knowledge, and generally respected. + +[Sidenote: 1770. November.] + +Deer proved pretty plentiful for some time, but to my great surprise, +when I wanted to give Matonabbee a little ammunition for his own use, I +found that my guide, Conreaquefe, who had it all under his care, had so +embezzled or otherways expended it, that only ten balls and about three +pounds of powder remained; so that long before we arrived at the Fort we +were obliged to cut up an ice-chissel into square lumps, as a substitute +for ball. It is, however, rather dangerous firing lumps of iron out of +such slight barrels as are brought to this part of the world for trade. +These, though light and handy, and of course well adapted for the use of +both English and Indians in long journies, and of sufficient strength +for leaden shot or ball, are not strong enough for {57} this kind of +shot; and strong fowling-pieces would not only be too heavy for the +laborious ways of hunting in this country, but their bores being so much +larger, would require more than double the quantity of ammunition that +small ones do; which, to Indians at least, must be an object of no +inconsiderable importance. + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +[Sidenote: 21st.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. November.] + +[Sidenote: 23rd.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. November.] + +I kept company with Matonabbee till the twentieth, at which time the +deer began to be so scarce that hardly a fresh track could be seen; and +as we were then but a few days walk from the Fort, he advised me to +proceed on with all speed, while he and his companions followed at +leisure. Accordingly, on the twenty-first, I set out post-haste, +accompanied by one of the home-guard (Southern) Tribe, and three +Northern Indians. That night we lay on the South side of Egg River; but, +long before daybreak the next morning, the weather became so bad, with a +violent gale of wind from the North West, and such a drift of snow, that +we could not have a bit of fire: and as no good woods were near to +afford us shelter, we agreed to proceed on our way: especially as the +wind was on our backs, and though the weather was bad near the surface, +we could frequently see the moon, and sometimes the stars, to direct us +in our course. In this situation we continued walking the whole day, and +it was not till after ten at night that we could find the smallest tuft +of woods to put up in; for though we well knew we must have passed by +several hummocks of shrubby woods {58} that might have afforded us some +shelter, yet the wind blew so hard, and the snow drifted so excessively +thick, that we could not see ten yards before us the whole day. Between +seven and eight in the evening my dog, a valuable brute, was frozen to +death; so that his sledge, which was a very heavy one, I was obliged to +haul. Between nine and ten at night we arrived at a small creek, on +which we walked about three quarters of a mile, when we came to a large +tuft of tall willows, and two or three sets of old tent-poles. Being +much jaded, we determined not to proceed any farther that night; so we +went to work, and made the best defence against the weather that the +situation of the place and our materials would admit. Our labour +consisted only in digging a hole in the snow, and fixing a few deer +skins up to windward of us; but the most difficult task was that of +making a fire. When this was once accomplished, the old tent-poles amply +supplied us with fuel. By the time we had finished this business, the +weather began to moderate, and the drift greatly to abate; so that the +moon and the _Aurora Borealis_ shone out with great splendour, and there +appeared every symptom of the return of fine weather. After eating a +plentiful supper of venison, therefore, of which we had a sufficient +stock to last us to the Fort, we laid down and got a little sleep. The +next day proving fine and clear, though excessively sharp, we proceeded +on our journey early in the morning, and at night lay on the South East +side of Seal River. We should have made a much longer day's {59} +journey, had we not been greatly embarrassed at setting out, by a jumble +of rocks, which we could not avoid without going greatly out of our way. +Here I must observe, that we were more than fortunate in not attempting +to leave the little creek where we had fixed our habitation the +preceding night, as the spot where we lay was not more than two or three +miles distant from this dangerous place; in which, had we fallen in with +it in the night, we must unavoidably have been bewildered, if we had +not all perished; as notwithstanding the advantage of a clear day, and +having used every possible precaution, it was with the utmost difficulty +that we crossed it without broken limbs. Indeed it would have been next +to an impossibility to have done it in the night. + +[Sidenote: 24th.] + +[Sidenote: 25th.] + +The twenty-fourth and twenty-fifth proved fine, clear weather, though +excessively cold; and in the afternoon of the latter, we arrived at +Prince of Wales's Fort, after having been absent eight months and +twenty-two days, on a fruitless, or at least an unsuccessful +journey.[44] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[X] This only consisted of three walking-sticks stuck into the ground, +and a blanket thrown over them. + +[Y] Skipertogan is a small bag that contains a flint and steel, also a +pipe and tobacco, as well as touchwood, &c. for making a fire. Some of +these bags may be called truly elegant; being richly ornamented with +beads, porcupine-quills, moose-hair, &c. a work always performed by the +women; and they are, with much propriety, greatly esteemed by most +Europeans for the neatness of their workmanship. + +[44] The text gives very little information from which to follow +Hearne's course from the point where he broke his quadrant on August +12th, till he arrived at Churchill on November 25th, so that we must +follow him as well as possible from the route laid down on his map. + +His route is marked crossing the Dubawnt River in latitude 63 deg. north, +near where it flows into an arm or bay of Dubawnt Lake. The river +actually flows into the lake from the south-west in latitude 62 deg. 55', +and it is probable that he crossed it three miles above this in latitude +62 deg. 53' 30", where, in 1893, we found the most northerly grove of +stunted spruce growing on the bank of the river, and where very old +remains of Indian camps were plainly to be seen. + +From here he turned south-eastward, and travelling around the south end +of Dubawnt Lake reached Kazan River just above Angikuni Lake (called on +Alexander Mackenzie's map Titmeg Lake), probably just at its western +end, where the caribou cross the river in large numbers in their +migration southward. This point is in latitude 62 deg. 20' north, while +Hearne places his crossing-place in latitude 62 deg. 12'. Thence, keeping +south of Angikuni Lake, he turned more to the east, and passing several +lakes which cannot be definitely identified, but two of which are +probably Magnus and Thaolintoa Lakes, he reached Thlewiaza River east of +Island Lake, where he was joined by Matonabbee and a band of Indians, +who had left their wives at Island Lake, and were on their way to Fort +Prince of Wales to trade. + +At the Thlewiaza River he turned eastward down the stream to a grove of +timber to obtain wood for snow-shoes. After making snow-shoes he turned +southward and rejoined Matonabbee and his band of Indians for a short +time, and then pushed on across Egg and Seal Rivers and around the south +end of Button's Bay to Fort Prince of Wales. + + + + +{60} CHAP. IV. + + Transactions during our Stay at Prince of Wales's Fort, and the + former part of our third Expedition, till our Arrival at Clowey, + where we built Canoes, in May 1771. + + _Preparations for our departure--Refuse to take any of the + home-guard Indians with me--By so doing, I offend the + Governor--Leave the Fort a third time--My instructions on this + expedition--Provisions of all kinds very scarce--Arrive at the + woods, where we kill some deer--Arrive at Island + Lake--Matonabbee taken ill--Some remarks thereon--Join the + remainder of the Indians' families--Leave Island + Lake--Description thereof--Deer plentiful--Meet a strange + Indian--Alter our course from West North West to West by + South--Cross Cathawhachaga River, Cossed Lake, Snow-Bird Lake, + and Pike Lake--Arrive at a tent of strangers, who are employed + in snaring deer in a pound--Description of the pound--Method of + proceeding--Remarks thereon--Proceed on our journey--Meet with + several parties of Indians; by one of whom I sent a letter to + the Governor at Prince of Wales's Fort--Arrive at + Thleweyazayeth--Employment there--Proceed to the North North + West and North--Arrive at Clowey--One of the Indians' wives + taken in labour--Remarks thereon--Customs observed by the + Northern Indians on those occasions._ + +[Sidenote: 1770. November. 28th.] + +On my arrival at the Fort, I informed the Governor, of Matonabbee's +being so near. On the twenty-eighth of November he arrived. +Notwithstanding the many difficulties and hardships which I had +undergone during my two unsuccessful attempts, I was so far from being +{61} solicited on this occasion to undertake a third excursion, that I +willingly offered my service; which was readily accepted, as my +abilities and approved courage, in persevering under difficulties, were +thought noways inferior to the task. + +[Illustration: A SOUTH-WEST VIEW OF PRINCE OF WALES'S FORT, HUDSON'S BAY +_Published by J. Sewell, Cornhill, March 1st, 1797_ +_From the "European Magazine", June, 1797_] + +[Sidenote: 1770. December.] + +I then determined to engage Matonabbee to be my guide; to which he +readily consented, and with a freedom of speech and correctness of +language not commonly met with among Indians, not only pointed out the +reasons which had occasioned all our misfortunes in my two former +attempts, but described the plan he intended to pursue; which at the +same time that it was highly satisfactory to me, did honour to his +penetration and judgment; as it proved him to be a man of extensive +observation with respect to times, seasons, and places; and well +qualified to explain everything that could contribute either to +facilitate or retard the ease or progress of travelling in those dreary +parts of the world. + +[Sidenote: 7th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. December.] + +Having engaged Matonabbee, therefore, as my guide, I began to make +preparations for our departure; but Mr. Norton, the Governor, having +been very fully occupied in trading with a large body of Indians, it was +the seventh of December before I could obtain from him my dispatches. It +may not be improper to observe, that he again wanted to force some of +the home-guard Indians (who were {62} his own relations[Z]) into our +company, merely with a view that they might engross all the credit of +taking care of{63} me during the journey; but I had round them of so +little use in my two former attempts, that I absolutely refused them; +and by so doing, offended Mr. Norton to such a degree, that neither time +nor absence could ever afterwards eradicate his dislike of me; so that +at my return he used every means in his power to treat me ill, and to +render my life unhappy. However, to deal with candour on this occasion, +it must be acknowledged to his honour, that whatever our private +animosities might have been, he did not suffer them to interfere with +public business; and I was fitted out with ammunition, and every other +article which Matonabbee thought could be wanted. I was also furnished, +as before, with a small assortment of light trading goods, as presents +to the far distant Indians. + +[Sidenote: 1770. December.] + +At last I succeeded in obtaining my instructions which were as follows: + + {64} "ORDERS _and_ INSTRUCTIONS _for_ Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE, _going + on his third Expedition to the North of Churchill River, in + quest of a North West Passage, Copper Mines, or any other thing + that may be serviceable to the British Nation in general, or the + Hudson's Bay Company in particular; in the year 1770._ + + "Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE. + + "SIR, + +"As you have offered your service a third time to go in search of the +Copper Mine River, &c., and as Matonabbee, a leading Indian, who has +been at those parts, is willing to be your guide, we have accordingly +engaged him for that service; but having no other instrument on the same +construction with the quadrant you had the misfortune to break, we have +furnished you with an Elton's quadrant, being the most proper instrument +we can now procure for making observations on the land. + +"The above Leader, Matonabbee, and a few of his best men, which he has +selected for that purpose, are to provide for you, assist you in all +things, and conduct you to the Copper Mine River; where you must {65} be +careful to observe the latitude and longitude, also the course of the +river, the depth of the water, the situation of the Copper Mines, &c., +but your first instructions, of November sixth, one thousand seven +hundred and sixty-nine, being sufficiently full, we refer you to every +part thereof for the better regulation of your conduct during this +journey. + +[Sidenote: 1770. December.] + +"As you and your Indian companions are fitted out with everything that +we think is necessary, (or at least as many useful articles as the +nature of travelling in those parts will admit of), you are hereby +desired to proceed on your journey as soon as possible; and your +present guide has promised to take great care of you, and conduct you +out and home with all convenient speed. + +"I conclude with my best wishes for your health and happiness, together +with a successful journey, and a quick return in safety. Amen. + + "(Signed) MOSES NORTON, Governor. + + "Dated at Prince of Wales's Fort, + 7th December 1770." + +[Sidenote: 7th.] + +On the seventh of December I set out on my third journey; and the +weather, considering the season of the year, was for some days pretty +mild. One of Matonabbee's wives being ill, occasioned us to walk so +slow, that {66} it was the thirteenth before we arrived at Seal River; +at which time two men and their wives left us, whose loads, when added +to those of the remainder of my crew, made a very material difference, +especially as Matonabbee's wife was so ill as to be obliged to be hauled +on a sledge. + +[Sidenote: 16th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. December.] + +Finding deer and all other game very scarce, and not knowing how long it +might be before we could reach any place where they were in greater +plenty, the Indians walked as far each day as their loads and other +circumstances would conveniently permit. On the sixteenth, we arrived at +Egg River, where Matonabbee and the rest of my crew had laid up some +provisions and other necessaries, when on their journey to the Fort. On +going to the place where they thought the provisions had been carefully +secured from all kinds of wild beasts, they had the mortification to +find that some of their countrymen, with whom the Governor had first +traded and dispatched from the Fort, had robbed the store of every +article, as well as of some of their most useful implements. This loss +was more severely felt, as there was a total want of every kind of game; +and the Indians, not expecting to meet with so great a disappointment, +had not used that economy in the expenditure of the oatmeal and other +provisions which they had received at the Fort, as they probably would +have done, had they not relied firmly on finding a supply at this place. +This disappointment and loss was borne by the Indians with the greatest +fortitude; and I did not hear {67} one of them breathe the least hint of +revenge in case they should ever discover the offenders; the only effect +it had on them was, that of making them put the best foot foremost. This +was thought so necessary, that for some time we walked every day from +morning till night. The days, however, being short, our sledges heavy, +and some of the road very bad, our progress seldom exceeded sixteen or +eighteen miles a day, and some days we did not travel so much. + +[Sidenote: 18th.] + +On the eighteenth, as we were continuing our course to the North West, +up a small creek that empties itself into Egg River, we saw the tracks +of many deer which had crossed that part a few days before; at that time +there was not a fresh track to be seen: some of the Indians, however, +who had lately passed that way, had killed more than they had occasion +for, so that several joints of good meat were found in their old +tent-places; which, though only sufficient for one good meal, were very +acceptable, as we had been in exceeding straitened circumstances for +many days. + +[Sidenote: 19th.] + +[Sidenote: 27th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. December.] + +On the nineteenth, we pursued our course in the North West quarter; and, +after leaving the above-mentioned creek, traversed nothing but entire +barren ground, with empty bellies, till the twenty-seventh; for though +we arrived at some woods on the twenty-sixth, and saw a few deer, four +of which the Indians killed, they were {68} at so great a distance from +the place on which we lay, that it was the twenty-seventh before the +meat was brought to the tents. Here the Indians proposed to continue one +day, under pretence of repairing their sledges and snow shoes; but from +the little attention they paid to those repairs, I was led to think that +the want of food was the chief thing that detained them, as they never +ceased eating the whole day. Indeed for many days before we had in +great want, and for the last three days had not tasted a morsel of any +thing, except a pipe of tobacco and a drink of snow water; and as we +walked daily from morning till night, and were all heavy laden, our +strength began to fail. I must confess that I never spent so dull a +Christmas; and when I recollected the merry season which was then +passing, and reflected on the immense quantities, and great variety of +delicacies which were then expending in every part of Christendom, and +that with a profusion bordering on waste, I could not refrain from +wishing myself again in Europe, if it had been only to have had an +opportunity of alleviating the extreme hunger which I suffered with the +refuse of the table of any one of my acquaintance. My Indians, however, +still kept in good spirits; and as we were then across all the barren +ground, and saw a few fresh tracks of deer, they began to think that the +worst of the road was over for that winter, and flattered me with the +expectation of soon meeting with deer and other game in greater plenty +than we had done since our departure from the Fort. + +[Sidenote: 28th.] + +{69} Early in the morning of the twenty-eighth, we again set out, and +directed our course to the Westward, through thick shrubby woods, +consisting chiefly of ill-shaped stunted pines, with small dwarf +junipers, intermixed here and there, particularly round the margins of +ponds and swamps, with dwarf willow bushes; and among the rocks and +sides of the hills were also some small poplars.[46] + +[Sidenote: 30th.] + +[Sidenote: 1770. December.] + +On the thirtieth, we arrived at the East side of Island Lake,[47] where +the Indians killed two large buck deer; but the rutting season was so +lately over, that their flesh was only eatable by those who could not +procure better food. In the evening, Matonabbee was taken very ill; and +from the nature of his complaint, I judged his illness to have proceeded +from the enormous quantity of meat that he had eat on the +twenty-seventh, as he had been indisposed ever since that time. Nothing +is more common with those Indians, after they have eat as much at a +sitting as would serve six moderate men, than to find themselves out of +order; but not one of them can bear to hear that it is the effect of +eating too much: in defence of which they say, that the meanest of the +animal creation knows when hunger is satisfied, and will leave off +accordingly. This, however, is a false assertion, advanced knowingly in +support of an absurd argument; for it is well known by them, as well as +all the Southern Indians, that the black bear, who, for size and the +delicacy of its flesh, may justly be called a respectable animal, is so +far from knowing {70} when its hunger is satisfied, that, in the Summer, +when the berries are ripe, it will gorge to such a degree, that it +frequently, and even daily, vomits up great quantities of new-swallowed +fruit, before it has undergone any change in the stomach, and +immediately renews its repast with as much eagerness as before. + +[Sidenote: 1770. December.] + +Notwithstanding the Northern Indians are at times so voracious, yet they +bear hunger with a degree of fortitude which, as Mr. Ellis justly +observes of the Southern Indians, "is much easier to admire than to +imitate." I have more than once seen the Northern Indians, at the end of +three or four days fasting, as merry and jocose on the subject, as if +they had voluntarily imposed it on themselves; and would ask each other +in the plainest terms, and in the merriest mood, if they had any +inclination for an intrigue with a strange woman? I must acknowledge +that examples of this kind were of infinite service to me, as they +tended to keep up my spirits on those occasions with a degree of +fortitude that would have been impossible for me to have done had the +Indians behaved in a contrary manner, and expressed any apprehension of +starving. + +[Sidenote: 31st.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. January. 1st.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. January.] + +Early in the morning of the thirty-first, we continued our journey, and +walked about fourteen miles to the Westward on Island Lake, where we +fixed our residence; but Matonabbee was at this time so ill as to be +obliged to be hauled on a sledge the whole day. The {71} next morning, +however, he so far recovered as to be capable of walking; when we +proceeded on to the West and West by North, about sixteen miles farther +on the same Lake, till we arrived at two tents, which contained the +remainder of the wives and families of my guides, who had been waiting +there for the return of their husbands from the Fort. Here we found only +two men, though there were upward of twenty women and children; and as +those two men had no gun or ammunition, they had no other method of +supporting themselves and the women, but by catching fish, and snaring a +few rabbits:[48] the latter were scarce, but the former were easily +caught in considerable numbers either with nets or hooks. The species of +fish generally caught in the nets are tittemeg, pike, and barble; and +the only sorts caught with hooks are trout, pike, burbut, and a small +fish, erroneously called by the English tench: the Southern Indians call +it the toothed tittemeg, and the Northern Indians call it _saint eah_. +They are delicate eating; being nearly as firm as a perch, and generally +very fat. They seldom exceed a foot in length, and in shape much +resemble a gurnard, except that of having a very long broad fin on the +back, like a perch, but this fin is not armed with similar spikes. The +scales are large, and of a sooty brown. They are generally most esteemed +when broiled or roasted with the scales on, of course the skin is not +eaten. + +[Sidenote: 3d.] + +{72} As the Captain [Matonabbee] and one man were indisposed, we did not +move on the second of January; but early in the morning of the third set +out, and walked about seven miles to the North Westward, five of which +were on the above mentioned Lake; when the Indians having killed two +deer, we put up for the night. + +Island Lake (near the center) is in latitude 60 deg. 45' North, and 102 deg. 25' +West longitude, from London; and is, at the part we crossed, about +thirty-five miles wide: but from the North East to the South West it is +much larger, and entirely full of islands, so near to each other as to +make the whole Lake resemble a jumble of serpentine rivers and creeks; +and it is celebrated by the natives as abounding with great plenty of +fine fish during the beginning of the Winter. At different parts of this +Lake most part of the wives and families of those Northern Indians who +visit Prince of Wales's Fort in October and November generally reside, +and wait for their return; as there is little fear of their being in +want of provisions, even without the assistance of a gun and ammunition, +which is a point of real consequence to them. The Lake is plentifully +supplied with water from several small rivulets and creeks which run +into it at the South West end; and it empties itself by means of other +small rivers which run to the North East, the principal of which is +Nemace-a-seepee-a-fish, or Little Fish River. Many of the islands, {73} +as well as the main land round this Lake, abound with dwarf woods, +chiefly pines; but in some parts intermixed with larch and small birch +trees. The land, like all the rest which lies to the North of Seal +River, is hilly, and full of rocks; and though none of the hills are +high, yet as few of the woods grow on their summits, they in general +show their snowy heads far above the woods which grow in the vallies, or +those which are scattered about their sides. + +[Sidenote: 1771. January.] + +After leaving Island Lake, we continued our old course between the West +and North West, and travelled at the easy rate of eight or nine miles a +day. Provisions of all kinds were scarce till the sixteenth, when the +Indians killed twelve deer. This induced us to put up, though early in +the day; and finding great plenty of deer in the neighbourhood of our +little encampment, it was agreed by all parties to remain a few days, in +order to dry and pound some meat to make it lighter for carriage. + +[Sidenote: 22d.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. January.] + +Having, by the twenty-second, provided a sufficient stock of provision, +properly prepared, to carry with us, and repaired our sledges and +snow-shoes, we again pursued our course in the North West quarter; and +in the afternoon spoke with a stranger, an Indian, who had one of +Matonabbee's wives under his care. He did not remain in our company +above an hour, as he only smoked part of a few pipes with his friends, +and returned to his tent, which could not {74} be far distant from the +place where we lay that night, as the woman and her two children joined +us next morning, before we had taken down our tent and made ready for +moving. Those people were the first strangers whom we had met since we +left the Fort, though we had travelled several hundred miles; which is a +proof that this part of the country is but thinly inhabited. It is a +truth well known to the natives, and doubtless founded on experience, +that there are many very extensive tracts of land in those parts, which +are incapable of affording support to any number of the human race even +during the short time they are passing through them, in the capacity of +migrants, from one place to another; much less are they capable of +affording a constant support to those who might wish to make them their +fixed residence at any season of the year. It is true, that few rivers +or lakes in those parts are entirely destitute of fish; but the +uncertainty of meeting with a sufficient supply for any considerable +time together, makes the natives very cautious how they put their whole +dependance on that article, as it has too frequently been the means of +many hundreds being starved to death. + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +By the twenty-third, deer were so plentiful that the Indians seemed to +think that, unless the season, contrary to expectation and general +experience, should prove unfavourable, there would be no fear of our +being in want of {75} provisions during the rest of the Winter, as deer +had always been known to be in great plenty in the direction which they +intended to walk. + +[Sidenote: February. 3d.] + +On the third of February, we continued our course to the West by North +and West North West,[49] and were so near the edge of the woods, that +the barren ground was in sight to the Northward. As the woods trended +away to the West, we were obliged to alter our course to West by South, +for the sake of keeping among them, as well as the deer. In the course +of this day's walk we saw several strangers, some of whom remained in +our company, while others went on their respective ways. + +[Sidenote: 6th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. February.] + +On the sixth, we crossed the main branch of Cathawhachaga River;[50] +which, at that part, is about three quarters of a mile broad; and after +walking three miles farther, came to the side of Cossed Whoie,[51] or +Partridge Lake; but the day being far spent, and the weather excessively +cold, we put up for the night. + +[Sidenote: 7th.] + +Early in the morning of the seventh, the weather being serene and clear, +we set out, and crossed the above mentioned Lake; which at that part is +about fourteen miles wide; but from the South South West to North North +East is much larger. It is impossible to describe the intenseness of the +cold which we experienced this day; and the dispatch we made in crossing +the lake is almost incredible, as it was {76} performed by the greatest +part of my crew in less than two hours; though some of the women, who +were heavy laden, took a much longer time. Several of the Indians were +much frozen, but none of them more disagreeably so than one of +Matonabbee's wives, whose thighs and buttocks were in a manner incrusted +with frost; and when thawed, several blisters arose, nearly as large as +sheeps' bladders. The pain the poor woman suffered on this occasion was +greatly aggravated by the laughter and jeering of her companions, who +said that she was rightly served for belting her clothes so high. I must +acknowledge that I was not in the number of those who pitied her, as I +thought she took too much pains to shew a clean heel and good leg; her +garters being always in sight, which, though by no means considered here +as bordering on indecency, is by far too airy to withstand the rigorous +cold of a severe winter in a high Northern latitude. I doubt not that +the laughter of her companions was excited by similar ideas. + +[Sidenote: 1771. February.] + +When we got on the West side of Partridge Lake we continued our course +for many days toward the West by South and West South West; when deer +were so plentiful, and the Indians killed such vast numbers, that +notwithstanding we frequently remained three, four, or five days in a +place, to eat up the spoils of our hunting, yet at our departure we +frequently left great quantities of good meat behind us, which we could +neither eat nor carry with us. {77} This conduct is the more excusable +among people whose wandering manner of life and contracted ideas make +every thing appear to them as the effect of mere chance. The great +uncertainty of their ever visiting this or that part a second time, +induces them to think there is nothing either wrong or improvident in +living on the best the country will afford, as they are passing through +it from place to place; and they seem willing that those who come after +them should take their chance, as they have done. + +[Sidenote: 21st.] + +On the twenty-first, we crossed The-whole-kyed Whoie, or Snowbird +Lake,[52] which at that part was about twelve or thirteen miles wide, +though from North to South it is much larger. As deer were as plentiful +as before, we expended much time in killing and eating them. This +Matonabbee assured me was the best way we could employ ourselves, as the +season would by no means permit us to proceed in a direct line for the +Copper-mine River; but when the Spring advanced, and the deer began to +draw out to the barren ground, he would then, he said, proceed in such a +manner as to leave no room to doubt of our arrival at the Copper-mine +River in proper time. + +[Sidenote: March. 2d.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. March. 3d.] + +On the second of March, we lay by the side of Whooldyah'd Whoie or Pike +Lake,[53] and not far from Doo-baunt Whoie River. On the next day we +began to cross the above mentioned Lake, but after walking seven miles +on it to the West South West, we arrived at a large tent of Northern +{78} Indians, who had been living there from the beginning of the +Winter, and had found a plentiful subsistence by catching deer in a +pound. This kind of employment is performed in the following manner: + +[Sidenote: 1771. March.] + +When the Indians design to impound deer, they look out for one of the +paths in which a number of them have trod, and which is observed to be +still frequented by them. When these paths cross a lake, a wide river, +or a barren plain, they are found to be much the best for the purpose; +and if the path run through a cluster of woods, capable of affording +materials for building the pound, it adds considerably to the +commodiousness of the situation. The pound is built by making a strong +fence with brushy trees, without observing any degree of regularity, and +the work is continued to any extent, according to the pleasure of the +builders. I have seen some that were not less than a mile round, and am +informed that there are others still more extensive. The door, or +entrance of the pound, is not larger than a common gate, and the inside +is so crowded with small counter-hedges as very much to resemble a maze; +in every opening of which they set a snare, made with thongs of +parchment deer-skins well twisted together, which are amazingly strong. +One end of the snare is usually made fast to a growing pole; but if no +one of a sufficient size can be found near the place where the snare is +set, a loose pole is substituted in its room, which is always of such +size and length that a deer cannot drag it {79} far before it gets +entangled among the other woods, which are all left standing except what +is found necessary for making the fence, hedges, &c. + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. B. Tyrrell, July 19, 1893._ +WHOLDIAH LAKE AS SEEN FROM THE HILLS TO THE SOUTH] + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. B. Tyrrell, August 2, 1893._ +GROVE OF SPRUCE BESIDE DUBAWNT RIVER, +WITHIN THE BARREN LANDS] + +The pound being thus prepared, a row of small brush-wood is stuck up in +the snow on each side of the door or entrance; and these hedge-rows are +continued along the open part of the lake, river, or plain, where +neither stick nor stump besides is to be seen, which makes them the more +distinctly observed. These poles, or brush-wood, are generally placed at +the distance of fifteen or twenty yards from each other, and ranged in +such a manner as to form two sides of a long acute angle, growing +gradually wider in proportion to the distance they extend from the +entrance of the pound, which sometimes is not less than two or three +miles; while the deer's path is exactly along the middle, between the +two rows of brush-wood. + +Indians employed on this service always pitch their tent on or near to +an eminence that affords a commanding prospect of the path leading to +the pound; and when they see any deer going that way, men, women, and +children walk along the lake or river-side under cover of the woods, +till they get behind them, then step forth to open view, and proceed +towards the pound in the form of a crescent. The poor timorous deer +finding themselves pursued, and at the same time taking the two rows of +brushy poles to be two ranks of people stationed {80} to prevent their +passing on either side, run straight forward in the path till they get +into the pound. The Indians then close in, and block up the entrance +with some brushy trees, that have been cut down and lie at hand for that +purpose. The deer being thus enclosed, the women and children walk round +the pound, to prevent them from breaking or jumping over the fence, +while the men are employed spearing such as are entangled in the snares, +and shooting with bows and arrows those which remain loose in the +pound. + +[Sidenote: 1771. March.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. March.] + +This method of hunting, if it deserves the name, is sometimes so +successful, that many families subsist by it without having occasion to +move their tents above once or twice during the course of a whole +winter; and when the Spring advances, both the deer and Indians draw out +to the Eastward, on the ground which is entirely barren, or at least +what is so called in those parts, as it neither produces trees or shrubs +of any kind, so that moss and some little grass is all the herbage which +is to be found on it. Such an easy way of procuring a comfortable +maintenance in the Winter months, (which is by far the worst time of the +year), is wonderfully well adapted to the support of the aged and +infirm, but is too apt to occasion a habitual indolence in the young and +active, who frequently spend a whole Winter in this indolent manner: and +as those parts of the country are almost destitute of every animal of +the furr kind, it cannot be {81} supposed that those who indulge +themselves in this indolent method of procuring food can be masters of +any thing for trade; whereas those who do not get their livelihood at so +easy a rate, generally procure furrs enough during the Winter to +purchase a sufficient supply of ammunition, and other European goods, to +last them another year. This is nearly the language of the more +industrious among them, who, of course, are of most importance and value +to the Hudson's Bay Company, as it is from them the furrs are procured +which compose the greatest part of Churchill trade. But in my opinion, +there cannot exist a stronger proof that mankind was not created to +enjoy happiness in this world, than the conduct of the miserable beings +who inhabit this wretched part of it; as none but the aged and infirm, +the women and children, a few of the more indolent and unambitious part +of them, will submit to remain in the parts where food and clothing are +procured in this easy manner, because no animals are produced there +whose furrs are valuable. And what do the more industrious gain by +giving themselves all this additional trouble? The real wants of these +people are few, and easily supplied; a hatchet, an ice-chissel, a file, +and a knife, are all that is required to enable them, with a little +industry, to procure a comfortable livelihood; and those who endeavour +to possess more, are always the most unhappy, and may, in fact, be said +to be only slaves and carriers to the rest, whose ambition never leads +them to any thing beyond the means of procuring food {82} and clothing. +It is true, the carriers pride themselves much on the respect which is +shewn to them at the Factory; to obtain which they frequently run great +risques of being starved to death in their way thither and back; and all +that they can possibly get there for the furrs they procure after a +year's toil, seldom amounts to more than is sufficient to yield a bare +subsistence, and a few furrs for the ensuing year's market; while those +whom they call indolent and mean-spirited live generally in a state of +plenty, without trouble or risque; and consequently must be the most +happy, and, in truth, the most independent also. It must be allowed that +they are by far the greatest philosophers, as they never give themselves +the trouble to acquire what they can do well enough without. The deer +they kill, furnishes them with food, and a variety of warm and +comfortable clothing, either with or without the hair, according as the +seasons require; and it must be very hard indeed, if they cannot get +furrs enough in the course of two or three years, to purchase a hatchet, +and such other edge-tools as are necessary for their purpose. Indeed, +those who take no concern at all about procuring furrs, have generally +an opportunity of providing themselves with all their real wants from +their more industrious countrymen, in exchange for provisions, and +ready-dressed skins for clothing. + +[Sidenote: 1771. March.] + +It is undoubtedly the duty of every one of the Company's servants to +encourage a spirit of industry among {83} the natives, and to use every +means in their power to induce them to procure furrs and other +commodities for trade, by assuring them of a ready purchase and good +payment for every thing they bring to the Factory: and I can truly say, +that this has ever been the grand object of my attention. But I must at +the same time confess, that such conduct is by no means for the real +benefit of the poor Indians; it being well known that those who have the +least intercourse with the Factories, are by far the happiest. As their +whole aim is to procure a comfortable subsistence, they take the most +prudent methods to accomplish it; and by always following the lead of +the deer, are seldom exposed to the griping hand of famine, so +frequently felt by those who are called the annual traders. It is true, +that there are few of the Indians, whose manner of life I have just +described, but have once in their lives at least visited Prince of +Wales's Fort; and the hardships and dangers which most of them +experienced on those occasions, have left such a lasting impression on +their minds that nothing can induce them to repeat their visits: nor is +it, in fact, the interest of the Company that people of this easy turn, +and who require only as much iron-work at a time as can be purchased +with three or four beaver skins, and that only once in two or three +years, should be invited to the Factories; because what they beg and +steal while there, is worth, in the way of trade, three times the +quantity of furrs which they bring. For this reason, it is much more for +the interest of the Company that the {84} annual traders should buy up +all those small quantities of furrs, and bring them in their own name, +than that a parcel of beggars should be encouraged to come to the +Factory with scarcely as many furrs as will pay for the victuals they +eat while they are on the plantation. + +[Sidenote: 1771. March.] + +I have often heard it observed, that the Indians who attend the +deer-pounds might, in the course of a Winter, collect a vast number of +pelts, which would well deserve the attention of those who are called +carriers or traders; but it is a truth, though unknown to those +speculators, that the deer skins at that season are not only as thin as +a bladder, but are also full of warbles, which render them of little or +no value. Indeed, were they a more marketable commodity than they +really are, the remote situation of those pounds from the Company's +Factories, must for ever be an unsurmountable barrier to the Indians +bringing any of those skins to trade. The same observation may be made +of all the other Northern Indians, whose chief support, the whole year +round, is venison; but the want of heavy draught in Winter, and +water-carriage in Summer, will not permit them to bring many deer skins +to market, not even those that are in season, and for which there has +always been great encouragement given. + +[Sidenote: 4th.] + +[Sidenote: 7th.] + +[Sidenote: 8th.] + +[Sidenote: 9th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. March.] + +We stopped only one night in company with the Indians whom we met on +Pike Lake, and in the morning of the fourth, proceeded to cross the +remainder of that {85} Lake; but, though the weather was fine, and +though the Lake was not more than twenty-seven miles broad at the place +where we crossed it, yet the Indians lost so much time at play, that it +was the seventh before we arrived on the West side of it. During the +whole time we were crossing it, each night we found either points of +land, or islands, to put up in. On the eighth, we lay a little to the +East North East of Black Bear Hill,[54] where the Indians killed two +deer, which were the first we had seen for ten days; but having plenty +of dried meat and fat with us, we were by no means in want during any +part of that time. On the ninth, we proceeded on our course to the +Westward, and soon met with as great plenty of deer as we had seen +during any part of our journey; which, no doubt, made things go on +smooth and easy: and as the Spring advanced, the rigour of the Winter +naturally abated, so that at times we had fine pleasant weather +over-head, though it was never so warm as to occasion any thaw, unless +in such places as lay exposed to the mid-day sun, and were sheltered +from all the cold winds. + +[Sidenote: 19th.] + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +On the nineteenth, as we were continuing our course to the West and West +by South, we saw the tracks of several strangers; and on following the +main path, we arrived that night at five tents of Northern Indians, who +had resided there great part of the Winter, snaring deer in the same +manner as those before mentioned. Indeed, it should {86} seem that this, +as well as some other places, had been frequented more than once on this +occasion; for the wood that had been cut down for fewel, and other uses, +was almost incredible. Before morning, the weather became so bad, and +the storm continued to rage with such violence, that we did not move for +several days; and as some of the Indians we met with at this place were +going to Prince of Wales's Fort in the Summer, I embraced the +opportunity of sending by them a Letter to the Chief at that Fort, +agreeably to the tenor of my instructions. By summing up my courses and +distances from my last observation, for the weather at that time would +not permit me to observe, I judged myself to be in latitude 61 deg. 30' +North, and about 19 deg. 60' of longitude to the West of Churchill River. +This, and some accounts of the usage I received from the natives, with +my opinion of the future success of the journey, formed the contents of +my Letter. + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +[Sidenote: 26th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. March.] + +On the twenty-third, the weather became fine and moderate, so we once +more pursued our way, and the next day, as well as on the twenty-sixth, +saw several more tents of Northern Indians, who were employed in the +same manner as those we had formerly met; but some of them having had +bad success, and being relations or acquaintances of part of my crew, +joined our company, and proceeded with us to the Westward. Though the +deer did not then keep regular paths, so as to enable the Indians to +catch them in pounds, yet they were to be met {87} with in great +abundance in scattered herds; so that my companions killed as many as +they pleased with their guns. + +[Sidenote: April. 8th.] + +We still continued our course to the West and West by South, and on the +eighth of April, arrived at a small Lake, called Thelewey-aza-yeth;[55] +but with what propriety it is so called I cannot discover, for the +meaning of Thelewey-aza-yeth is Little Fish Hill: probably so called +from a high hill which stands on a long point near the West end of the +Lake. On an island in this Lake we pitched our tents, and the Indians +finding deer very numerous, determined to stay here some time, in order +to dry and pound meat to take with us; for they well knew, by the season +of the year, that the deer were then drawing out to the barren ground, +and as the Indians proposed to walk due North on our leaving the Lake, +it was uncertain when we should again meet with any more. As several +Indians had during the Winter joined our party, our number had now +increased to seven tents, which in the whole contained not less than +seventy persons. + +[Sidenote: 1771. April.] + +Agreeably to the Indians' proposals we remained at Thelewey-aza-yeth ten +days; during which time my companions were busily employed (at their +intervals from hunting) in preparing small staves of birch-wood, about +one and a quarter inch square, and seven or eight feet long. These serve +as tent-poles all the Summer, {88} while on the barren ground; and as +the fall advances, are converted into snowshoe frames for Winter use. +Birchrind, together with timbers and other wood-work for building +canoes, were also another object of the Indian's attention while at this +place; but as the canoes were not to be set up till our arrival at +Clowey, (which was many miles distant,) all the wood-work was reduced to +its proper size, for the sake of making it light for carriage. + +As to myself, I had little to do, except to make a few observations for +determining the latitude, bringing up my journal, and filling up my +chart to the present time. I found the latitude of this place 61 deg. 30' +North, and its longitude, by my account, 19 deg. West of Prince of Wales's +Fort. + +[Sidenote: 18th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. April.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. April.] + +Having a good stock of dried provisions, and most of the necessary work +for canoes all ready, on the eighteenth we moved about nine or ten miles +to the North North West, and then came to a tent of Northern Indians who +were tenting on the North side of Thelewey-aza River. From these Indians +Matonabbee purchased another wife; so that he had now no less than +seven, most of whom would for size have made good grenadiers. He prided +himself much in the height and strength of his wives, and would +frequently say, few women would carry or haul heavier loads; and though +they had, in general, a very masculine appearance, yet he preferred them +to those of a {89} more delicate form and moderate stature. In a country +like this, where a partner in excessive hard labour is the chief motive +for the union, and the softer endearments of a conjugal life are only +considered as a secondary object, there seems to be great propriety in +such a choice; but if all the men were of this way of thinking, what +would become of the greater part of the women, who in general are but of +low stature, and many of them of a most delicate make, though not of the +exactest proportion, or most beautiful mould? Take them in a body, the +women are as destitute of real beauty as any nation I ever saw, though +there are some few of them, when young, who are tolerable; but the care +of a family, added to their constant hard labour, soon make the most +beautiful among them look old and wrinkled, even before they are thirty; +and several of the more ordinary ones at that age are perfect antidotes +to love and gallantry. This, however, does not render them less dear and +valuable to their owners, which is a lucky circumstance for those women, +and a certain proof that there is no such thing as any rule or standard +for beauty. Ask a Northern Indian, what is beauty? he will answer, a +broad flat face, small eyes, high cheek-bones, three or four broad black +lines across each cheek, a low forehead, a large broad chin, a clumsy +hook-nose, a tawny hide, and breasts hanging down to the belt. Those +beauties are greatly heightened, or at least rendered more valuable, +when the possessor is capable of dressing all kinds of skins, converting +them into the different parts {90} of their clothing, and able to carry +eight or ten[AA] stone in Summer, or haul a much greater weight in +Winter. These, and other similar accomplishments, are all that are +sought after, or expected, of a Northern Indian woman. As to their +temper, it is of little consequence; for the men have a wonderful +facility in making the most stubborn comply with as much alacrity as +could possibly be expected from those of the mildest and most obliging +turn of mind; so that the only real difference is, the one obeys through +fear, and the other complies cheerfully from a willing mind; both +knowing that what is commanded must be done. They are, in fact, all kept +at a great distance, and the rank they hold in the opinion of the men +cannot be better expressed or explained, than by observing the method of +treating or serving them at meals, which would appear very humiliating, +to an European woman, though custom makes it sit light on those whose +lot it is to bear it. It is necessary to observe, that when the men kill +any large beast, the women are always sent to bring it to the tent: when +it is brought there, every operation it undergoes, such as splitting, +drying, pounding, &c. is performed by the women. When any thing is to be +prepared for eating, it is the women who cook it; and when it is done, +the wives and daughters of the greatest Captains in the country are +never served, till all the males, even those who are in the capacity of +servants, have eaten what they think proper; {91} and in times of +scarcity it is frequently their lot to be left without a single morsel. +It is, however, natural to think they take the liberty of helping +themselves in secret; but this must be done with great prudence, as +capital embezzlements of provisions in such times are looked on as +affairs of real consequence, and frequently subject them to a very +severe beating. If they are practised by a woman whose youth and +inattention to domestic concerns cannot plead in her favour, they will +for ever be a blot in her character, and few men will chuse to have her +for a wife. + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +Finding plenty of good birch growing by the side of Theley-aza River, we +remained there for a few days, in order to complete all the wood-work +for the canoes, as well as for every other use for which we could +possibly want it on the barren ground, during our Summer's cruise. On +the twentieth, Matonabbee sent one of his brothers, and some others, +a-head, with birch-rind and wood-work for a canoe, and gave them orders +to proceed to a small Lake near the barren ground called Clowey, where +they were desired to make all possible haste in building the canoe, that +it might be ready on our arrival. + +[Sidenote: 1771. April.] + +Having finished such wood-work as the Indians thought would be +necessary, and having augmented our stock of dried meat and fat, the +twenty-first was appointed for moving; but one of the women having been +taken in labour, and it being rather an extraordinary case, we {92} were +detained more than two days. The instant, however, the poor woman was +delivered, which was not until she had suffered all the pains usually +felt on those occasions for near fifty-two hours, the signal was made +for moving when the poor creature took her infant on her back and set +out with the rest of the company; and though another person had the +humanity to haul her sledge for her, (for one day only,) she was obliged +to carry a considerable load beside her little charge, and was +frequently obliged to wade knee-deep in water and wet snow. Her very +looks, exclusive of her moans, were a sufficient proof of the great pain +she endured, insomuch that although she was a person I greatly disliked, +her distress at this time so overcame my prejudice, that I never felt +more for any of her sex in my life; indeed her sighs pierced me to the +soul, and rendered me very miserable, as it was not in my power to +relieve her. + +When a Northern Indian woman is taken in labour, a small tent is erected +for her, at such a distance from the other tents that her cries cannot +easily be heard, and the other women and young girls are her constant +visitants: no male, except children in arms, ever offers to approach +her. It is a circumstance perhaps to be lamented, that these people +never attempt to assist each other on those occasions, even in the most +critical cases. This is in some measure owing to delicacy, but more +probably to an opinion they entertain that nature is {93} abundantly +sufficient to perform every thing required, without any external help +whatever. When I informed them of the assistance which European women +derive from the skill and attention of our midwives, they treated it +with the utmost contempt; ironically observing, "that the many +hump-backs, bandy-legs, and other deformities, so frequent among the +English, were undoubtedly owing to the great skill of the persons who +assisted in bringing them into the world, and to the extraordinary care +of their nurses afterward." + +[Sidenote: 1771. April.] + +A Northern Indian woman after child-birth is reckoned unclean for a +month or five weeks; during which time she always remains in a small +tent placed at a little distance from the others, with only a female +acquaintance or two; and during the whole time the father never sees the +child. Their reason for this practice is, that children when first born +are sometimes not very sightly, having in general large heads, and but +little hair, and are, moreover, often discoloured by the force of the +labour; so that were the father to see them to such great disadvantage, +he might probably take a dislike to them, which never afterward could be +removed. + +The names of the children are always given to them by the parents, or +some person near of kin. Those of the boys are various, and generally +derived from some place, season, or animal; the names of the girls are +chiefly {94} taken from some part or property of a Martin; such as, the +White Martin, the Black Martin, the Summer Martin, the Martin's Head, +the Martin's Foot, the Martin's Heart, the Martin's Tail, &c.[AB] + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +[Sidenote: May. 3d.] + +On the twenty-third, as I hinted above, we began to move forward, and to +shape our course nearly North; but the weather was in general so hot, +and so much snow had, in consequence, been melted, as made it bad +walking in snow-shoes, and such exceeding heavy hauling, that it was the +third of May before we could arrive at Clowey,[56] though the distance +was not above eighty-five miles from Thelewey-aza-yeth. In our way we +crossed part of two small Lakes, called Tittameg Lake and Scartack Lake; +neither of which are of any note, though both abound with fine fish. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[Z] Mr. Norton was an Indian;[45] he was born at Prince of Wales's Fort, +but had been in England nine years, and considering the small sum which +was expended in his education, had made some progress in literature. At +his return to Hudson's Bay he entered into all the abominable vices of +his countrymen. He kept for his own use five or six of the finest Indian +girls which he could select; and notwithstanding his own uncommon +propensity to the fair sex, took every means in his power to prevent any +European from having intercourse with the women of the country; for +which purpose he proceeded to the most ridiculous length. To his own +friends and country he was so partial, that he set more value on, and +shewed more respect to one of their favourite dogs, than he ever did to +his first officer. Among his miserable and ignorant countrymen he passed +for a proficient in physic, and always kept a box of poison, to +administer to those who refused him their wives or daughters. + +With all these bad qualities, no man took more pains to inculcate +virtue, morality, and continence on others; always painting, in the most +odious colours, the jealous and revengeful disposition of the Indians, +when any attempt was made to violate the chastity of their wives or +daughters. Lectures of this kind from a man of established virtue might +have had some effect; but when they came from one who was known to live +in open defiance of every law, human and divine, they were always heard +with indignation, and considered as the hypocritical cant of a selfish +debauchee, who wished to engross every woman in the country to himself. + +His apartments were not only convenient but elegant, and always crowded +with favourite Indians: at night he locked the doors, and put the keys +under his pillow; so that in the morning his dining-room was generally, +for the want of necessary conveniences, worse than a hog-stye. As he +advanced in years his jealousy increased, and he actually poisoned two +of his women because he thought them partial to other objects more +suitable to their ages. He was a most notorious smuggler; but though he +put many thousands into the pockets of the Captains, he seldom put a +shilling into his own. + +An inflammation in his bowels occasioned his death on the 29th of +December 1773; and though he died in the most excruciating pain, he +retained his jealousy to the last; for a few minutes before he expired, +happening to see an officer laying hold of the hand of one of his women +who was standing by the fire, he bellowed out, in as loud a voice as his +situation would admit, "God d----n you for a b----h, if I live I'll +knock out your brains." A few minutes after making this elegant +apostrophe, he expired in the greatest agonies that can possibly be +conceived. + +This I declare to be the real character and manner of life of the late +Mr. Moses Norton. + +[45] He was a son of Richard Norton, an Englishman, and a former +Governor of Fort Prince of Wales, by an Indian woman. He was undoubtedly +a man of forceful character, and was able to retain the confidence of +the directors of the Company in London, but whether he was the moral +degenerate described by Hearne is uncertain. + +[46] _Populus tremuloides_ (Michx.). + +[47] The name by which the Chipewyan Indians of Fort Churchill know this +lake is Nueltin (meaning Frozen-Island) Lake, which name seems to have +been corrupted on Mackenzie's map into "North Lined Lake." On the Cook +map it is marked Menishtick Lake, which is simply the Cree name for +Island Lake. There is no record of any one having visited Island Lake +since Hearne's time, but in 1894, while on the way to the Kazan River, I +explored two of the upper branches of the Thlewiaza River, which flows +into the lake, and was told by the Indians that the distance +north-eastward down the river to this lake was not very great. This +information, if correct, would place the lake rather farther south than +it is placed by Hearne. + +[48] _Lepus americanus_ (Erxleben). + +[49] Between Island Lake and the Cathawhachaga River, the map indicates +that he crossed Fatt Lake, which is probably the lake now known to the +Indians of Reindeer Lake as Twal-kai-tua or Fat-fish Lake, and said by +them to lie east of Kasba Lake, though its exact position has not been +determined. On the Pennant and Mackenzie maps it is called Wiethen Lake. + +[50] The Cathawhachaga or Kazan River would appear to have been crossed +about five miles below where it leaves Kasba Lake, as it is here about a +quarter of a mile wide, while between this place and the lake it is for +the most part a swift stream varying from one to three hundred yards in +width. His crossing-place would therefore be in latitude 60 deg. 37' N., +while his own latitude for the crossing-place, as given on his map, is +61 deg. 32' N., which would be far out on the barren lands, beyond the +northern limit of the woods. Thus, almost as soon as he left the track +followed by him on his former journey, his surveys become very +inaccurate. This is so much at variance with the approximate accuracy of +his surveys on his second journey, that either the Elton quadrant +carried by him was quite useless, or else he did not make use of it at +all. + +[51] Cossed Whoie, spelt Cassad on the Cook map, and Cassed on the +Pennant map. This lake lies at the source of the Kazan River, and is now +known as Kasba Lake. He crossed it north of the point where the Kazan +River flows from its eastern side. My survey of the lake, made in 1894, +did not extend north of its outlet, but, judging from what I could see +of it, and from the information obtainable from the Chipewyan Indians of +the vicinity, the width here given for the lake is much too great. + +[52] The-whole-kyed (Whoie) or Snowbird Lake, known to the Indians of +Lake Athabasca as Thel-wel-ky Lake. The course from Kasba Lake is given +in the text as W. by S. and W.S.W., and the time occupied in travelling +it as thirteen days, while on Hearne's map the course is shown as +westward and the distance twenty miles. + +[53] The name Whooldyah'd Lake had been applied to the lake at the +source of Dubawnt River, which I explored in the summer of 1893. The +lake was known to the Indians of the vicinity as Pelican Lake, and they +assured me that there was no lake on the river of the name of +Whooldyah'd or Pike Lake. The identification of this lake with the one +crossed by Hearne is reasonably, but not perfectly, certain. + +[54] It had taken him thirteen days to travel from Wholdiah Lake to this +camp, and, assuming a rate of four miles a day, he was fifty-two miles +west of that lake. As his course was about westerly, his position would +be in latitude 60 deg. 20' north and longitude 11 deg. 30' west of Churchill. + +[55] The exact position of this lake (Thelewey-aza-yeth) has not yet +been determined. In the text it is given in latitude 61 deg. 30' north, +longitude 19 deg. west of Prince of Wales Fort, while on the map it is +placed in latitude 61 deg. 15' and 19 deg. 30' west of Prince of Wales Fort, or +one hundred and fifty miles west of Wholdiah Lake. The direction +travelled from the crossing of Wholdiah Lake is shown as a little south +of west, and as the south end of the latter lake is in latitude 60 deg. 20', +it is reasonable to suppose that Thelewey-aza-yeth Lake is at least a +degree farther south than it is shown on the map, and, judging from the +known approximate position of Hill Island Lake, which he crossed on his +way back from the Coppermine, it is much farther east than the position +assigned to it on the map. + +[AA] The stone here meant is fourteen pounds. + +[AB] Matonabbee had eight wives, and they were all called Martins. + +[56] Lake Clowey is marked on the map as discharging by a stream into +Great Slave Lake, but its exact position is not known. On the map it is +placed in latitude 62 deg. 50', which is probably not very far from its +correct position. From the description here given, it would appear to be +near the divide between the watershed of Great Slave Lake and Thelon +River. L'Abbe Petitot in _Geographie de L'Athabaskaw-Mackenzie_ +identifies the Clowey River, which flows from this lake into Great Slave +Lake, with the T'ezus-desse or Poudrerie (Snowdrift) River, which flows +into Christie Bay of Great Slave Lake. + + + + +{95} CHAP. V. + + Transactions at Clowey, and on our Journey, till our Arrival at + the Copper-mine River. + + _Several strange Indians join us--Indians employed building + canoes; description and use of them--More Indians join us, to + the amount of some hundreds--Leave Clowey--Receive intelligence + that Keelshies was near us--Two young men dispatched for my + letters and goods--Arrive at Peshew Lake; cross part of it, and + make a large smoke--One of Matonabbee's wives elopes--Some + remarks on the natives--Keelshies joins us, and delivers my + letters, but the goods were all expended--A Northern Indian + wishes to take one of Matonabbee's wives from him; matters + compromised, but had like to have proved fatal to my + progress--Cross Peshew Lake, when I make proper arrangements for + the remainder of my journey--Many Indians join our party, in + order to make war on the Esquimaux at the Copper + River--Preparations made for that purpose while at + Clowey--Proceed on our journey to the North--Some remarks on the + way--Cross Cogead Lake on the ice--The Sun did not set--Arrive + at Congecathawhachaga--Find several Copper Indians + there--Remarks and transactions during our stay at + Congecathawhachaga--Proceed on our journey--Weather very + bad--Arrive at the Stoney Mountains--Some account of them--Cross + part of Buffalo Lake on the ice--Saw many musk-oxen--Description + of them--Went with some Indians to view Grizzlebear Hill--Join a + strange Northern Indian Leader, called O'lye, in company with + some Copper Indians--Their behaviour to me--Arrive at the + Coppermine River._ + + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +The Lake Clowey is not much more than twelve miles broad in the widest +part. A small river which runs into it on the West side, is said by the +Indians to join the Athapuscow Lake. + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +{96} On our arrival at Clowey on the third of May, we found that the +Captain's brother, and those who were sent a-head with him from +Theley-aza River, had only got there two days before us; and, on account +of the weather, had not made the least progress in building the canoe, +the plan of which they had taken with them. The same day we got to +Clowey several other Indians joined us from different quarters, with +intent to build their canoes at the same place. Some of those Indians +had resided within four or five miles, to the South-East of Clowey, all +the Winter; and had procured a plentiful livelihood by snaring deer, in +the manner which has been already described. + +[Sidenote: 18th.] + +[Sidenote: 19th.] + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +Immediately after our arrival at Clowey, the Indians began to build +their canoes, and embraced every convenient opportunity for that +purpose: but as warm and dry weather only is fit for this business, +which was by no means the case at present, it was the eighteenth of May +before the canoes belonging to my party could be completed. On the +nineteenth we agreed to proceed on our journey; but Matonabbee's canoe +meeting with some damage, which took near a whole day to repair, we were +detained till the twentieth. + +Those vessels, though made of the same materials with the canoes of the +Southern Indians, differ from them both in shape and construction; they +are also much smaller and {97} lighter; and though very slight and +simple in their construction, are nevertheless the best that could +possibly be contrived for the use of those poor people, who are +frequently obliged to carry them a hundred, and sometimes a hundred and +fifty miles at a time, without having occasion to put them into the +water. Indeed, the chief use of these canoes is to ferry over unfordable +rivers; though sometimes, and at a few places, it must be acknowledged, +that they are of great service in killing deer, as they enable the +Indians to cross rivers and the narrow parts of lakes; they are also +useful in killing swans, geese, ducks, &c. in the moulting season. + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +All the tools used by an Indian in building his canoe, as well as in +making his snow-shoes, and every other kind of wood-work, consist of a +hatchet, a knife, a file, and an awl; in the use of which they are so +dextrous, that every thing they make is executed with a neatness not to +be excelled by the most expert mechanic, assisted with every tool he +could wish. + +[Illustration: INDIAN IMPLEMENTS + +_Reference_ +A _The Bottom of the Canoe_ +B _The Forepart_ +C _The Frame compleat_ +D _A set of Timbers bent and lashed in their proper +shape for drying_ +E _A Canoe compleat_ +F _A Paddle_ +G _A spear to kill Deer with in the Water_ +H _The method of carrying the Canoe in Summer_ + +_S. H. delin._ + +_Reference to the Skeleton_ +1 _The Stem_ +2 _The Stern Post_ +3 _Two forked Sticks supporting the Stem and Stern_ +4 _The Gunwalls_ +5 _Small Rods placed between the Timbers and the Birchrind_ +6 _The Timbers_ +7 _The Kelsin_ +8 _Large Stones to keep the Bottom steady, till the sides +are sewed to_ +] + +In shape the Northern Indian canoe bears some resemblance to a weaver's +shuttle; being flat-bottomed, with straight upright sides, and sharp at +each end; but the stern is by far the widest part, as there the baggage +is generally laid, and occasionally a second person, who always lies +down at full length in the bottom of the canoe. In this manner they +carry one another across rivers and the narrow {98} parts of lakes in +those little vessels, which seldom exceed twelve or thirteen feet in +length, and are from twenty inches to two feet broad in the widest part. +The head, or fore part, is unnecessarily long, and narrow; and is all +covered over with birch-bark, which adds considerably to the weight, +without contributing to the burthen of the vessel. In general, these +Indians make use of the single paddle, though a few have double ones, +like the Esquimaux: the latter, however, are seldom used, but by those +who lie in wait to kill deer as they cross rivers and narrow lakes.[AC] + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +During our stay at Clowey we were joined by upward of two hundred +Indians from different quarters, most of whom built canoes at this +place; but as I was under the protection of a principal man, no one +offered to molest {99} me, nor can I say they were very clamorous for +any thing I had. This was undoubtedly owing to Matonabbee's informing +them of my true situation; which was, that I had not, by any means, +sufficient necessaries for myself, much less to give away. The few goods +which I had with me were intended to be reserved for the Copper and +Dogribbed Indians, who never visit the Company's Factories. Tobacco was, +however, always given away; for every one of any note, who joined us, +expected to be treated with a few pipes, and on some occasions it was +scarcely possible to get off without presenting a few inches[AD] to +them; which, with the constant supplies which I was obliged to furnish +my own crew, decreased that article of my stock so fast, that +notwithstanding I had yet advanced so small a part of my journey, more +than one half of my store was expended. Gun-powder and shot also were +articles commonly asked for by most of the Indians we met; and in +general these were dealt round to them with a liberal hand by my guide +Matonabbee. I must, however, do him the justice to acknowledge, that +what he distributed was all his own, which he had purchased at the +Factory; to my certain knowledge he bartered one hundred and fifty +martins' skins for powder only; besides a great number of beaver, and +other furrs, for shot, ball, iron-work, and tobacco, purposely to give +away among his countrymen; as he had certainly as many of these articles +given to him as were, in {100} his opinion, sufficient for our support +during our journey out and home. + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +Matonabbee's canoe having been repaired, on the twentieth we left +Clowey, and proceeded Northward. That morning a small gang of strangers +joined us, who informed my guide, that Captain Keelshies was within a +day's walk to the Southward. Keelshies was the man by whom I had sent a +letter to Prince of Wales's Fort, from Cathawhachaga, in the beginning +of July one thousand seven hundred and seventy; but not long after that, +having the misfortune to break my quadrant, I was obliged to return to +the Fort a second time; and though we saw many smokes, and spoke with +several Indians on my return that year, yet he and I missed each other +on the barren ground, and I had not seen or heard of him since that +time. + +[Sidenote: 21st.] + +As Matonabbee was desirous that I should receive my letters, and also +the goods I had written for, he dispatched two of his young men to bring +them. We continued our journey to the Northward; and the next day saw +several large smokes at a great distance to the Eastward on the barren +ground, which were supposed to be made by some parties of Indians bound +to Prince of Wales's Fort with furrs and other commodities for trade. + +[Sidenote: 22d.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +On the twenty-second and twenty-third, we proceeded to the North, at the +rate of fourteen or fifteen miles a day; and in the evening of the +latter, got clear of all {101} the woods, and lay on the barren +ground.[57] The same evening the two young men who were sent for my +letters, &c. returned, and told me that Keelshies had promised to join +us in a few days, and deliver the things to me with his own hand. + +[Sidenote: 24th.] + +The twenty-fourth proved bad and rainy weather, so that we only walked +about seven miles, when finding a few blasted stumps of trees, we +pitched our tents. It was well we did so, for toward night we had +excessively bad weather, with loud thunder, strong lightning, and heavy +rain, attended with a very hard gale of wind from the South West; toward +the next morning, however, the wind veered round to the North West, and +the weather became intensely cold and frosty. We walked that day about +eight miles to the Northward, when we were obliged to put up, being +almost benumbed with cold. There we found a few dry stumps, as we had +done the day before, which served us for fewel.[AE] + +[Sidenote: 26th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. May. 27th.] + +[Sidenote: 28th.] + +{102} The weather on the twenty-sixth was so bad, with snow and thick +drifting sleet, that we did not move; but the next morning proving fine +and pleasant, we dried our things, and walked about twelve miles to the +Northward; most of the way on the ice of a small river which runs into +Peshew Lake.[AF][58] We then saw a smoke to the Southward, which we +judged to be made by Keelshies, so we put up for the night by the side +of the above-mentioned Lake, where I expected we should have waited for +his arrival; but, to my great surprise, on the morrow we again set +forward, and walked twenty-two miles to the Northward on Peshew Lake, +and in the afternoon pitched our tents on an island, where, by my +desire, the Indians made a large smoke, and proposed to stay a day or +two for Captain Keelshies. + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. W. Tyrrell, 1900._ +LAST WOODS ON EAST SHORE, ARTILLERY LAKE] + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. W. Tyrrell, 1900._ +WEST SHORE, ARTILLERY LAKE +IN LAT. 62 deg. 56'] + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +In the night, one of Matonabbee's wives and another woman eloped: it was +supposed they went off to the Eastward, in order to meet their former +husbands, from {103} whom they had been sometime before taken by force. +This affair made more noise and bustle than I could have supposed; and +Matonabbee seemed entirely disconcerted, and quite inconsolable for the +loss of his wife. She was certainly by far the handsomest of all his +flock, of a moderate size, and had a fair complexion; she apparently +possessed a mild temper, and very engaging manners. In fact, she seemed +to have every good quality that could be expected in a Northern Indian +woman, and that could render her an agreeable companion to an inhabitant +of this part of the world. She had not, however, appeared happy in her +late situation; and chose rather to be the sole wife of a sprightly +young fellow of no note, (though very capable of maintaining her,) than +to have the seventh or eighth share of the affection of the greatest man +in the country. I am sorry to mention an incident which happened while +we were building the canoes at Clowey, and which by no means does +honour to Matonabbee: it is no less a crime than that of having actually +stabbed the husband of the above-mentioned girl in three places; and had +it not been for timely assistance, would certainly have murdered him, +for no other reason than because the poor man had spoken disrespectfully +of him for having taken his wife away by force. The cool deliberation +with which Matonabbee committed this bloody action, convinced me it had +been a long premeditated design; for he no sooner heard of the man's +arrival, than he opened one of his wives' bundles, and, with the +greatest {104} composure, took out a new long box-handled knife, went +into the man's tent, and, without any preface whatever, took him by the +collar, and began to execute his horrid design. The poor man +anticipating his danger, fell on his face, and called for assistance; +but before any could be had he received three wounds in the back. +Fortunately for him, they all happened on the shoulder-blade, so that +his life was spared. When Matonabbee returned to his tent, after +committing this horrid deed, he sat down as composedly as if nothing had +happened, called for water to wash his bloody hands and knife, smoked +his pipe as usual, seemed to be perfectly at ease, and asked if I did +not think he had done right? + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +It has ever been the custom among those people for the men to wrestle +for any woman to whom they are attached; and, of course, the strongest +party always carries off the prize. A weak man, unless he be a good +hunter and well-beloved, is seldom permitted to keep a wife that a +stronger man thinks worth his notice: for at any time when the wives of +those strong wrestlers are heavy-laden either with furrs or provisions, +they make no scruple of tearing any other man's wife from his bosom, and +making her bear a part of his luggage. This custom prevails throughout +all their tribes, and causes a great spirit of emulation among their +youth, who are upon all occasions, from their childhood, trying their +strength and skill in wrestling. This enables them to protect their +property, and particularly their wives, {105} from the hands of those +powerful ravishers; some of whom make almost a livelihood by taking what +they please from the weaker parties, without making them any return. +Indeed, it is represented as an act of great generosity, if they +condescend to make an unequal exchange; as, in general, abuse and insult +are the only return for the loss which is sustained. + +The way in which they tear the women and other property from one +another, though it has the appearance of the greatest brutality, can +scarcely be called fighting. I never knew any of them receive the least +hurt in these rencontres; the whole business consists in hauling each +other about by the hair of the head: they are seldom known either to +strike or kick one another. It is not uncommon for one of them to cut +off his hair and to grease his ears, immediately before the contest +begins. This, however, is done privately; and it is sometimes truly +laughable, to see one of the parties strutting about with an air of +great importance, and calling out, "Where is he? Why does he not come +out?" when the other will bolt out with a clean shorned head and greased +ears, rush on his antagonist, seize him by the hair, and though perhaps +a much weaker man, soon drag him to the ground, while the stronger is +not able to lay hold on him. It is very frequent on those occasions for +each party to have spies, to watch the other's motions, which puts them +more on a footing of equality. For want of hair to pull, they {106} +seize each other about the waist, with legs wide extended, and try their +strength, by endeavouring to vie who can first throw the other down. + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +On these wrestling occasions the standers-by never attempt to interfere +in the contest; even one brother offers not to assist another, unless it +be with advice, which, as it is always delivered openly on the field +during the contest, may, in fact, be said to be equally favourable to +both parties. It sometimes happens that one of the wrestlers is superior +in strength to the other; and if a woman be the cause of the contest, +the weaker is frequently unwilling to yield, notwithstanding he is +greatly overpowered. When this happens to be the case, the relations and +friends, or other bye-standers, will sometimes join to persuade the +weaker combatant to give up the contest, lest, by continuing it, he +should get bruised and hurt, without the least probability of being able +to protect what he is contending for. I observed that very few of those +people were dissatisfied with the wives which had fallen to their lot, +for whenever any considerable number of them were in company, scarcely a +day passed without some overtures being made for contests of this kind; +and it was often very unpleasant to me, to see the object of the contest +sitting in pensive silence watching her fate, while her husband and his +rival were contending for the prize. I have indeed not only felt pity +for those poor wretched victims, but the utmost indignation, when I +{107} have seen them won, perhaps, by a man whom they mortally hated. On +those occasions their grief and reluctance to follow their new lord has +been so great, that the business has often ended in the greatest +brutality; for, in the struggle, I have seen the poor girls stripped +quite naked, and carried by main force to their new lodgings. At other +times it was pleasant enough to see a fine girl led off the field from a +husband she disliked, with a tear in one eye and a finger on the other: +for custom, or delicacy if you please, has taught them to think it +necessary to whimper a little, let the change be ever so much to their +inclination. I have throughout this account given the women the +appellation of girls, which is pretty applicable, as the objects of +contest are generally young, and without any family: few of the men +chuse to be at the trouble of maintaining other people's children, +except on particular occasions, which will be taken notice of hereafter. + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +Some of the old men, who are famous on account of their supposed skill +in conjuration, have great influence in persuading the rabble from +committing those outrages; but the humanity of these sages is seldom +known to extend beyond their own families. In defence of them they will +exert their utmost influence; but when their own relations are guilty of +the same crime, they seldom interfere. This partial conduct creates some +secret, and several open enemies; but the generality of their neighbours +are deterred, through fear or superstition, from {108} executing their +revenge, and even from talking disrespectfully of them, unless it be +behind their backs; which is a vice of which almost every Indian in this +country, without exception, is guilty. + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +Notwithstanding the Northern Indians are so covetous, and pay so little +regard to private property as to take every advantage of bodily strength +to rob their neighbours, not only of their goods, but of their wives, +yet they are, in other respects, the mildest tribe, or nation, that is +to be found on the borders of Hudson's Bay: for let their affronts or +losses be ever so great, they never will seek any other revenge than +that of wrestling. As for murder, which is so common among all the +tribes of Southern Indians, it is seldom heard of among them. A murderer +is shunned and detested by all the tribe, and is obliged to wander up +and down, forlorn and forsaken even by his own relations and former +friends. In that respect a murderer may truly be compared to Cain, after +he had killed his brother Abel. The cool reception he meets with by all +who know him, occasions him to grow melancholy, and he never leaves any +place but the whole company say "There goes the murderer!" The women, it +is true, sometimes receive an unlucky blow from their husbands for +misbehaviour, which occasions their death; but this is thought nothing +of: and for one man or woman to kill another out of revenge, or through +jealousy, or on any other account, is so extraordinary, that very few +are now {109} existing who have been guilty of it. At the present moment +I know not one, beside Matonabbee, who ever made an attempt of that +nature; and he is, in every other respect, a man of such universal good +sense, and, as an Indian, of such great humanity, that I am at a loss +how to account for his having been guilty of such a crime, unless it be +by his having lived among the Southern Indians so long, as to become +tainted with their blood-thirsty, revengeful, and vindictive +disposition. + +[Sidenote: 29th.] + +Early in the morning of the twenty-ninth, Captain Keelshies joined us. +He delivered to me a packet of letters, and a two-quart keg of French +brandy; but assured me, that the powder, shot, tobacco, knives, &c. +which he received at the Fort for me, were all expended. He endeavoured +to make some apology for this, by saying, that some of his relations +died in the Winter, and that he had, according to their custom, thrown +all his own things away; after which he was obliged to have recourse to +my ammunition and other goods, to support himself and a numerous family. +The very affecting manner in which he related this story, often crying +like a child, was a great proof of his extreme sorrow, which he wished +to persuade me arose from the recollection of his having embezzled so +much of my property; but I was of a different opinion, and attributed +his grief to arise from the remembrance of his deceased relations. +However, as a small recompence for my loss, he presented me with four +{110} ready-dressed moose-skins, which was, he said, the only +retribution he could then make. The moose-skins, though not the +twentieth part of the value of the goods which he had embezzled, were in +reality more acceptable to me, than the ammunition and the other +articles would have been, on account of their great use as shoe-leather, +which at that time was a very scarce article with us, whereas we had +plenty of powder and shot. + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +On the same day that Keelshies joined us, an Indian man, who had been +some time in our company, insisted on taking one of Matonabbee's wives +from him by force, unless he complied with his demands, which were, that +Matonabbee should give him a certain quantity of ammunition, some pieces +of iron-work, a kettle, and several other articles; every one of which, +Matonabbee was obliged to deliver, or lose the woman; for the other man +far excelled him in strength. Matonabbee was more exasperated on this +occasion, as the same man had sold him the woman no longer ago than the +nineteenth of the preceding April. Having expended all the goods he then +possessed, however, he was determined to make another bargain for her; +and as she was what may be called a valuable woman in their estimation; +that is, one who was not only tolerably personable, but reckoned very +skilful in manufacturing the different kinds of leather, skins, and +furrs, and at the same time very clever in the performance of every +other domestic duty required of the sex in this part of the {111} world; +Matonabbee was more unwilling to part with her, especially as he had so +lately suffered a loss of the same kind. + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +[Sidenote: 29th.] + +This dispute, which was after some hours decided by words and presents, +had like to have proved fatal to my expedition; for Matonabbee, who at +that time thought himself as great a man as then lived, took this +affront so much to heart, especially as it was offered in my presence, +that he almost determined not to proceed any farther toward the +Coppermine River, and was on the point of striking off to the Westward, +with an intent to join the Athapuscow Indians, and continue with them: +he being perfectly well acquainted with all their leaders, and most of +the principal Indians of that country, from whom, during a former +residence among them of several years, he said he had met with more +civility than he ever did from his own countrymen. As Matonabbee seemed +resolutely bent on his design, I had every reason to think that my third +expedition would prove equally unsuccessful with the two former. I was +not, however, under the least apprehension for my own safety, as he +promised to take me with him, and procure me a passage to Prince of +Wales's Fort, with some of the Athapuscow Indians, who at that time +annually visited the Factory in the way of trade. After waiting till I +thought Matonabbee's passion had a little abated, I used every argument +of which I was master in favour of his proceeding on the journey; +assuring him {112} not only of the future esteem of the present Governor +of Prince of Wales's Fort, but also of that of all his successors as +long as he lived; and that even the Hudson's Bay Company themselves +would be ready to acknowledge his assiduity and perseverance, in +conducting a business which had so much the appearance of proving +advantageous to them. After some conversation of this kind, and a good +deal of intreaty, he at length consented to proceed, and promised to +make all possible haste. Though it was then late in the afternoon, he +gave orders for moving, and accordingly we walked about seven miles that +night, and put up on another island in Peshew Lake. The preceding +afternoon the Indians had killed a few deer; but our number was then so +great, that eight or ten deer would scarcely afford us all a taste. +These deer were the first we had seen since our leaving the +neighbourhood of Thelewey-aza-yeth; so that we had lived all the time on +the dried meat which had been prepared before we left that place in +April. + +[Sidenote: 30th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +The thirtieth proved bad, rainy weather; we walked, however, about ten +miles to the Northward, when we arrived on the North side of Peshew +Lake, and put up. Here Matonabbee immediately began to make every +necessary arrangement for facilitating the executing of our design; and +as he had promised to make all possible haste, he thought it expedient +to leave most of his wives and all his children in the care of some +Indians, then in our company, who had his orders to proceed to the {113} +Northward at their leisure; and who, at a particular place appointed by +him, were to wait our return from the Copper-mine River. Having formed +this resolution, Matonabbee selected two of his young wives who had no +children, to accompany us; and in order to make their loads as light as +possible, it was agreed that we should not take more ammunition with us +than was really necessary for our support, till we might expect again to +join those Indians and the women and children. The same measures were +also adopted by all the other Indians of my party; particularly those +who had a plurality of wives, and a number of children. + +[Sidenote: 31st.] + +As these matters took some time to adjust, it was near nine o'clock in +the evening of the thirty-first before we could set out; and then it was +with much difficulty that Matonabbee could persuade his other wives from +following him, with their children and all their lumber; for such was +their unwillingness to be left behind, that he was obliged to use his +authority before they would consent, consequently they parted in anger; +and we no sooner began our march, than they set up a most woeful cry, +and continued to yell most piteously as long as we were within hearing. +This mournful scene had so little effect on my party, that they walked +away laughing, and as merry as ever. The few who expressed any regret at +their departure from those whom they were to leave behind, {114} +confined their regard wholly to their children, particularly to the +youngest, scarcely ever mentioning their mother. + +Though it was so late when we left the women, we walked about ten miles +that night before we stopped. In our way we saw many deer; several of +which the Indians killed. To talk of travelling and killing deer in the +middle of the night, may at first view have the appearance of romance; +but our wonder will speedily abate, when it is considered that we were +then to the Northward of 64 deg. of North latitude, and that, in consequence +of it, though the Sun did not remain the whole night above the horizon, +yet the time it remained below it was so short, and its depression even +at midnight so small at this season of the year, that the light, in +clear weather, was quite sufficient for the purpose both of walking, and +hunting any kind of game.[59] + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +It should have been observed, that during our stay at Clowey a great +number of Indians entered into a combination with those of my party to +accompany us to the Copper-mine River; and with no other intent than to +murder the Esquimaux, who are understood by the Copper Indians to +frequent that river in considerable numbers. This scheme, +notwithstanding the trouble and fatigue, as well as danger, with which +it must be obviously attended, was nevertheless so universally approved +by those people, that for some time almost every man who joined {115} us +proposed to be of the party. Accordingly, each volunteer, as well as +those who were properly of my party, prepared a target, or shield, +before we left the woods of Clowey. Those targets were composed of thin +boards, about three quarters of an inch thick, two feet broad, and three +feet long; and were intended to ward off the arrows of the Esquimaux. +Notwithstanding these preparations, when we came to leave the women and +children, as has been already mentioned, only sixty volunteers would go +with us; the rest, who were nearly as many more, though they had all +prepared targets, reflecting that they had a great distance to walk, and +that no advantage could be expected from the expedition, very prudently +begged to be excused, saying, that they could not be spared for so long +a time from the maintenance of their wives and families; and +particularly, as they did not see any then in our company, who seemed +willing to encumber themselves with such a charge. This seemed to be a +mere evasion, for I am clearly of opinion that poverty on one side, and +avarice on the other, were the only impediments to their joining our +party; had they possessed as many European goods to squander away among +their countrymen as Matonabbee and those of my party did, in all +probability many might have been found who would have been glad to have +accompanied us. + +[Sidenote: 1771. May.] + +When I was acquainted with the intentions of my companions, and saw the +warlike preparations that were carrying on, I endeavoured as much as +possible to persuade {116} them from putting their inhuman design into +execution; but so far were my intreaties from having the wished-for +effect, that it was concluded I was actuated by cowardice; and they +told me, with great marks of derision, that I was afraid of the +Esquimaux. As I knew my personal safety depended in a great measure on +the favourable opinion they entertained of me in this respect, I was +obliged to change my tone, and replied, that I did not care if they +rendered the name and race of the Esquimaux extinct; adding at the same +time, that though I was no enemy to the Esquimaux, and did not see the +necessity of attacking them without cause, yet if I should find it +necessary to do it, for the protection of any one of my company, my own +safety out of the question, so far from being afraid of a poor +defenceless Esquimaux, whom I despised more than feared, nothing should +be wanting on my part to protect all who were with me. This declaration +was received with great satisfaction; and I never afterwards ventured to +interfere with any of their war-plans. Indeed, when I came to consider +seriously, I saw evidently that it was the highest folly for an +individual like me, and in my situation, to attempt to turn the current +of a national prejudice which had subsisted between those two nations +from the earliest periods, or at least as long as they had been +acquainted with the existence of each other. + +[Sidenote: June. 1st.] + +[Sidenote: 16th.] + +Having got rid of all the women, children, dogs, heavy baggage, and +other incumbrances, on the first of June we {117} pursued our journey to +the Northward with great speed; but the weather was in general so +precarious, and the snow, sleet, and rain so frequent, that +notwithstanding we embraced every opportunity which offered, it was the +sixteenth of June before we arrived in the latitude of 67 deg. 30', where +Matonabbee had proposed that the women and children should wait our +return from the Copper-mine River. + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +In our way hither we crossed several lakes on the ice; of which +Thoy-noy-kyed Lake[60] and Thoy-coy-lyned Lake[61] were the principal. +We also crossed a few inconsiderable creeks and rivers,[62] which were +only useful as they furnished a small supply of fish to the natives. The +weather, as I have before observed, was in general disagreeable, with a +great deal of rain and snow. To make up for that inconvenience, however, +the deer were so plentiful, that the Indians killed not only a +sufficient quantity for our daily support, but frequently great numbers +merely for the fat, marrow and tongues. To induce them to desist from +this practice, I often interested myself, and endeavoured, as much as +possible, to convince them in the clearest terms of which I was master, +of the great impropriety of such waste; particularly at a time of the +year when their skins could not be of any use for clothing, and when the +anxiety to proceed on our journey would not permit us to stay long +enough in one place to eat up half the spoils of their hunting. As +national customs, however, are not easily {118} overcome, my +remonstrances proved ineffectual; and I was always answered, that it was +certainly right to kill plenty, and live on the best, when and where it +was to be got, for that it would be impossible to do it where every +thing was scarce: and they insisted on it, that killing plenty of deer +and other game in one part of the country, could never make them scarcer +in another. Indeed, they were so accustomed to kill every thing that +came within their reach, that few of them could pass by a small bird's +nest, without slaying the young ones, or destroying the eggs. + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +From the seventeenth to the twentieth, we walked between seventy and +eighty miles to the North West and North North West; the greater part of +the way by Cogead Lake[63]; but the Lake being then frozen, we crossed +all the creeks and bays of it on the ice. + +[Sidenote: 21st.] + +On the twenty-first we had bad rainy weather, with so thick a fog that +we could not see our way: about ten o'clock at night, however, it became +fine and clear, and the Sun shone very bright; indeed it did not set all +that night, which was a convincing proof, without any observation, that +we were then considerably to the North of the Arctic Polar Circle. + +[Sidenote: 22d.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +As soon as the fine weather began, we set out and walked about seven or +eight miles to the Northward, when we {119} came to a branch of +Conge-ca-tha-wha-chaga River[64]; on the North side of which we found +several Copper Indians, who were assembled, according to annual custom, +to kill deer as they cross the river in their little canoes. + +The ice being now broken up, we were, for the first time this Summer, +obliged to make use of our canoes to ferry across the river: which would +have proved very tedious, had it not been for the kindness of the Copper +Indians, who sent all their canoes to our assistance. Though our number +was not much less than one hundred and fifty, we had only three canoes, +and those being of the common size, could only carry two persons each, +without baggage. It is true, when water is smooth, and a raft of three +or four of those canoes is well secured by poles lashed across them, +they will carry a much greater weight in proportion, and be much safer, +as there is scarcely a possibility of their oversetting; and this is the +general mode adopted by the people of this country in crossing rivers +when they have more than one canoe with them. + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +Having arrived on the North side of this river, we found that +Matonabbee, and several others in our company, were personally +acquainted with most of the Copper Indians whom we found there. The +latter seemed highly pleased at the interview with our party, and +endeavoured, by every means in their power, to convince our company of +their readiness to serve us to the utmost; so that by the {120} time we +had got our tents pitched, the strangers had provided a large quantity +of dried meat and fat, by way of a feast, to which they invited most of +the principal Indians who accompanied me, as well as Matonabbee and +myself, who were presented with some of the very best. + +It is natural to suppose, that immediately after our arrival the Copper +Indians would be made acquainted with the nature and intention of our +journey. This was no sooner done than they expressed their entire +approbation, and many of them seemed willing and desirous of giving +every assistance; particularly by lending us several canoes, which they +assured us would be very useful in the remaining part of our journey, +and contribute both to our ease and dispatch. It must be observed, that +these canoes were not entirely entrusted to my crew, but carried by the +owners themselves who accompanied us; as it would have been very +uncertain where to have found them at our return from the Copper River. + +Agreeably to my instructions, I smoked my calumet of peace with the +principal of the Copper Indians, who seemed highly pleased on the +occasion; and, from a conversation held on the subject of my journey, I +found they were delighted with the hopes of having an European +settlement in their neighbourhood, and seemed to have no idea that any +impediment could prevent such a scheme from being carried into +execution. Climates and {121} seasons had no weight with them; nor could +they see where the difficulty lay in getting to them; for though they +acknowledged that they had never seen the sea at the mouth of the Copper +River clear of ice, yet they could see nothing that should hinder a ship +from approaching it; and they innocently enough observed, that the water +was always so smooth between the ice and shore, that even small boats +might get there with great ease and safety. How a ship was to get +between the ice and the shore, never once occurred to them. + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +Whether it was from real motives of hospitality, or from the great +advantages which they expected to reap by my discoveries, I know not; +but I must confess that their civility far exceeded what I could expect +from so uncivilized a tribe, and I was exceedingly sorry that I had +nothing of value to offer them. However, such articles as I had, I +distributed among them, and they were thankfully received by them. +Though they have some European commodities among them, which they +purchase from the Northern Indians, the same articles from the hands of +an Englishman were more prized. As I was the first whom they had ever +seen, and in all probability might be the last, it was curious to see +how they flocked about me, and expressed as much desire to examine me +from top to toe, as an European Naturalist would a non-descript animal. +They, however, found and pronounced me to be a perfect human being, +except in the colour of my hair {122} and eyes: the former, they said, +was like the stained hair of a buffaloe's tail, and the latter, being +light, were like those of a gull. The whiteness of my skin also was, in +their opinion, no ornament, as they said it resembled meat which had +been sodden in water till all the blood was extracted. On the whole, I +was viewed as so great a curiosity in this part of the world, that +during my stay there, whenever I combed my head, some or other of them +never failed to ask for the hairs that came off, which they carefully +wrapped up, saying, "When I see you again, you shall again see your +hair." + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +The day after our arrival at Congecathawhachaga, Matonabbee dispatched +his brother, and several Copper Indians, to Copper-mine River, with +orders to acquaint any Indians they might meet, with the reason of my +visiting those parts, and also when they might probably expect us at +that river. By the bearers of this message I sent a present of tobacco +and some other things, to induce any strangers they met to be ready to +give us assistance, either by advice, or in any other way which might be +required. + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +As Matonabbee and the other Indians thought it advisable to leave all +the women at this place, and proceed to the Copper-mine River without +them, it was thought necessary to continue here a few days, to kill as +many deer as would be sufficient for their support during {123} our +absence. And notwithstanding deer were so plentiful, yet our numbers +were so large, and our daily consumption was so great, that several days +elapsed before the men could provide the women with a sufficient +quantity; and then they had no other way of preserving it, than by +cutting it in thin slices and drying it in the Sun. Meat, when thus +prepared, is not only very portable, but palatable; as all the blood and +juices are still remaining in the meat, it is very nourishing and +wholesome food; and may, with care, be kept a whole year without the +least danger of spoiling. It is necessary, however, to air it frequently +during the warm weather, otherwise it is liable to grow mouldy: but as +soon as the chill air of the fall begins, it requires no farther trouble +till next Summer. + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +We had not been many days at Congecathawhachaga before I had reason to +be greatly concerned at the behaviour of several of my crew to the +Copper Indians. They not only took many of their young women, furrs, and +ready-dressed skins for clothing, but also several of their bows and +arrows, which were the only implements they had to procure food and +raiment, for the future support of themselves, their wives, and +families. It may probably be thought, that as these weapons are of so +simple a form, and so easily constructed, they might soon be replaced, +without any other trouble or expense than a little labour; but this +supposition can only hold good in places where proper materials are +easily procured, which was not the case here: {124} if it had, they +would not have been an object of plunder. In the midst of a forest of +trees, the wood that would make a Northern Indian a bow and a few +arrows, or indeed a bow and arrows ready made, are not of much value; no +more than the man's trouble that makes them: but carry that bow and +arrows several hundred miles from any woods and place where those are +the only weapons in use, their intrinsic value will be found to +increase, in the same proportion as the materials which are made are +less attainable.[AG] + +To do Matonabbee justice on this occasion, I must say that he +endeavoured as much as possible to persuade his countrymen from taking +either furrs, clothing, or bows, from the Copper Indians, without making +them some satisfactory return; but if he did not encourage, neither did +he endeavour to hinder them from taking as many women as they pleased. +Indeed, the Copper Indian women seem to be much esteemed by our Northern +traders; for what reason I know not, as they are in reality the same +people in every respect; and their language differs not so much as the +dialects of some of the nearest counties in England do from each other. + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +It is not surprising that a plurality of wives is customary among these +people, as it is so well adapted to {125} their situation and manner of +life. In my opinion no race of people under the Sun have a greater +occasion for such an indulgence. Their annual hunt, in quest of furrs, +is so remote from any European settlement, as to render them the +greatest travellers in the known world; and as they have neither horse +nor water carriage, every good hunter is under the necessity of having +several persons to assist in carrying his furrs to the Company's Fort, +as well as carrying back the European goods which he receives in +exchange for them. No persons in this country are so proper for this +work as the women, because they are inured to carry and haul heavy loads +from their childhood, and to do all manner of drudgery; so that those +men who are capable of providing for three, four, five, six, or more +women, generally find them humble and faithful servants, affectionate +wives, and fond and indulgent mothers to their children. Though custom +makes this way of life sit apparently easy on the generality of the +women, and though, in general, the whole of their wants seem to be +comprized in food and clothing only, yet nature at times gets the better +of custom, and the spirit of jealousy makes its appearance among them: +however, as the husband is always arbitrator, he soon settles the +business, though perhaps not always to the entire satisfaction of the +parties. + +Much does it redound to the honour of the Northern Indian women when I +affirm, that they are the mildest and most virtuous females I have seen +in any part of North {126} America; though some think this is more owing +to habit, custom, and the fear of their husbands, than from real +inclination. It is undoubtedly well known that none can manage a +Northern Indian woman so well as a Northern Indian man; and when any of +them have been permitted to remain at the Fort, they have, for the sake +of gain, been easily prevailed on to deviate from that character; and a +few have, by degrees, become as abandoned as the Southern Indians, who +are remarkable throughout all their tribes for being the most debauched +wretches under the Sun. So far from laying any restraint on their +sensual appetites, as long as youth and inclination last, they give +themselves up to all manner of even incestuous debauchery; and that in +so beastly a manner when they are intoxicated, a state to which they are +peculiarly addicted, that the brute creation are not less regardless of +decency. I know that some few Europeans, who have had little opportunity +of seeing them, and of enquiring into their manners, have been very +lavish in their praise; but every one who has had much intercourse with +them, and penetration and industry enough to study their dispositions, +will agree, that no accomplishments whatever in a man, is sufficient to +conciliate the affections, or preserve the chastity of a Southern Indian +woman.[AH] + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +{127} The Northern Indian women are in general so far from being like +those I have above described, that it is very {128} uncommon to hear of +their ever being guilty of incontinency, not even those who are confined +to the sixth or even eighth part of a man. + +It is true, that were I to form my opinion of those women from the +behaviour of such as I have been more particularly acquainted with, I +should have little reason to say much in their favour; but impartiality +will not {129} permit me to make a few of the worst characters a +standard for the general conduct of all of them. Indeed it is but +reasonable to think that travellers and interlopers will be always +served with the worst commodities, though perhaps they pay the best +price for what they have. + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. June.] + +It may appear strange, that while I am extolling the chastity of the +Northern Indian women, I should acknowledge that it is a very common +custom among the men of this country to exchange a night's lodging with +each other's wives. But this is so far from being considered as an act +which is criminal, that it is esteemed by them as one of the strongest +ties of friendship between two families; and in case of the death of +either man, the other considers himself bound to support the children of +the deceased. Those people are so far from viewing this engagement as a +mere ceremony, like most of our Christian god-fathers and god-mothers, +who, notwithstanding their vows are made in the most solemn manner, and +in the presence of both God and man, scarcely ever afterward remember +what they have promised, that there is not an instance of a Northern +Indian having once neglected the duty which he is supposed to have taken +upon himself to perform. The Southern Indians, with all their bad +qualities, are remarkably humane and charitable to the widows and +children of departed friends; and as their situation and manner of life +enable them to do more acts of charity with less trouble {130} than +falls to the lot of a Northern Indian, few widows or orphans are ever +unprovided for among them. + +Though the Northern Indian men make no scruple of having two or three +sisters for wives at one time, yet they are very particular in observing +a proper distance in the consanguinity of those they admit to the +above-mentioned intercourse with their wives. The Southern Indians are +less scrupulous on those occasions; for among them it is not at all +uncommon for one brother to make free with another brother's wife or +daughter;[AI] but this is held in abhorrence by the Northern Indians. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +[Sidenote: 1st.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +{131} By the time the Indians had killed as many deer as they thought +would be sufficient for the support of the women during our absence, it +was the first of July; and during this time I had two good observations, +both by meridional and double altitudes; the mean of which determined +the latitude of Congecathawhachaga[65] to be 68 deg. 46' North; and its +longitude, by account, was 24 deg. 2' West from Prince of Wales's Fort, or +118 deg. 15' West of the meridian of London. + +[Sidenote: 2d.] + +On the second, the weather proved very bad, with much snow and sleet; +about nine o'clock at night, however, it grew more moderate, and +somewhat clearer, so that we set out, and walked about ten miles to the +North by West, when we lay down to take a little sleep. At our departure +from Congecathawhachaga, several Indians who had entered the war list, +rather chose to stay behind with the women; but their loss was amply +supplied by Copper Indians, who accompanied us in the double capacity of +guides and warriors. + +[Sidenote: 3d.] + +On the third the weather was equally bad with that of the preceding day; +we made shift, however, to walk ten or eleven miles in the same +direction we had done the day before, and at last were obliged to put +up, not being able to see our way for snow and thick drift. By putting +up, no more is to be understood than that we got to leeward of a {132} +great stone, or into the crevices of the rocks, where we regaled +ourselves with such provisions as we had brought with us, smoked our +pipes, or went to sleep, till the weather permitted us to proceed on our +journey. + +[Sidenote: 4th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +On the fourth, we had rather better weather, though constant light snow, +which made it very disagreeable under foot. We nevertheless walked +twenty-seven miles to the North West, fourteen of which were on what the +Indians call the Stony Mountains; and surely no part of the world better +deserves that name. On our first approaching these mountains, they +appeared to be a confused heap of stones, utterly inaccessible to the +foot of man: but having some Copper Indians with us who knew the best +road, we made a tolerable shift to get on, though not without being +obliged frequently to crawl on our hands and knees. Notwithstanding the +intricacy of the road, there is a very visible path the whole way across +these mountains, even in the most difficult parts: and also on the +smooth rocks, and those parts which are capable of receiving an +impression, the path is as plain and well-beaten, as any bye foot-path +in England. By the side of this path there are, in different parts, +several large, flat, or table stones, which are covered with many +thousands of small pebbles. These the Copper Indians say have been +gradually increased by passengers going to and from the mines; and on +its being observed to us that it was the {133} universal custom for +every one to add a stone to the heap, each of us took up a small stone +in order to increase the number, for good luck. + +Just as we arrived at the foot of the Stony Mountains, three of the +Indians turned back; saying, that from every appearance, the remainder +of the journey seemed likely to be attended with more trouble than would +counterbalance the pleasure they could promise themselves by going to +war with the Esquimaux. + +[Sidenote: 5th.] + +[Sidenote: 6th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +On the fifth, as the weather was so bad, with constant snow, sleet, and +rain, that we could not see our way, we did not offer to move: but the +sixth proving moderate, and quite fair till toward noon, we set out in +the morning, and walked about eleven miles to the North West; when +perceiving bad weather at hand, we began to look out for shelter among +the rocks, as we had done the four preceding nights, having neither +tents nor tent-poles with us. The next morning fifteen more of the +Indians deserted us, being quite sick of the road, and the uncommon +badness of the weather. Indeed, though these people are all enured to +hardships, yet their complaint on the present occasion was not without +reason: for, from our leaving Congecathawhachaga we had scarcely a dry +garment of any kind, or any thing to screen us from the inclemency of +the weather, except rocks and {134} caves; the best of which were but +damp and unwholesome lodging. In some the water was constantly dropping +from the rock that formed the roof, which made our place of retreat +little better than the open air; and we had not been able to make one +spark of fire (except what was sufficient to light a pipe) from the +time of our leaving the women on the second instant; it is true, in some +places there was a little moss, but the constant sleet and rain made it +so wet, as to render it as impossible to set fire to it as it would be +to a wet sponge. + +We had no sooner entered our places of retreat, than we regaled +ourselves with some raw venison which the Indians had killed that +morning; the small stock of dried provisions we took with us when we +left the women being now all expended. + +Agreeably to our expectations, a very sudden and heavy gale of wind came +on from the North West, attended with so great a fall of snow, that the +oldest Indian in company said, he never saw it exceeded at any time of +the year, much less in the middle of Summer. The gale was soon over, and +by degrees it became a perfect calm: but the flakes of snow were so +large as to surpass all credibility, and fell in such vast quantities, +that though the shower only lasted nine hours, we were in danger of +being smothered in our caves. + +[Sidenote: 7th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +{135} On the seventh, we had a fresh breeze at North West, with some +flying showers of small rain, and at the same time a constant warm +sunshine, which soon dissolved the greatest part of the new-fallen snow. +Early in the morning we crawled out of our holes, which were on the +North side of the Stony Mountains, and walked about eighteen or twenty +miles to the North West by West. In our way we crossed part of a large +lake on the ice, which was then far from being broken up. This lake I +distinguished by the name of Buffalo, or Musk-Ox Lake,[66] from the +number of those animals[67] that we found grazing on the margin of it; +many of which the Indians killed, but finding them lean, only took some +of the bulls' hides for shoe-soals. At night the bad weather returned, +with a strong gale of wind at North East, and very cold rain and sleet. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +This was the first time we had seen any of the musk-oxen since we left +the Factory. It has been observed that we saw a great number of them in +my first unsuccessful attempt, before I had got an hundred miles from +the Factory; and indeed I once perceived the tracks of two of those +animals within nine miles of Prince of Wales's Fort. Great numbers of +them also were met with in my second journey to the North: several of +which my companions killed, particularly on the seventeenth of July one +thousand seven hundred and seventy. They are also found at times in +considerable numbers near the sea-coast of Hudson's Bay, {136} all the +way from Knapp's Bay to Wager Water, but are most plentiful within the +Arctic Circle. In those high latitudes I have frequently seen many herds +of them in the course of a day's walk, and some of those herds did not +contain less than eighty or an hundred head. The number of bulls is very +few in proportion to the cows; for it is rare to see more than two or +three full-grown bulls with the largest herd: and from the number of the +males that are found dead, the Indians are of opinion that they kill +each other in contending for the females. In the rutting season they are +so jealous of the cows, that they run at either man or beast who offers +to approach them; and have been observed to run and bellow even at +ravens, and other large birds, which chanced to light near them. They +delight in the most stony and mountainous parts of the barren ground, +and are seldom found at any great distance from the woods. Though they +are a beast of great magnitude, and apparently of a very unwieldy +inactive structure, yet they climb the rocks with great ease and +agility, and are nearly as sure-footed as a goat: like it too, they will +feed on any thing; though they seem fondest of grass, yet in Winter, +when that article cannot be had in sufficient quantity, they will eat +moss, or any other herbage they can find, as also the tops of willows +and the tender branches of the pine tree. They take the bull in August, +and bring forth their young the latter end of May, or beginning of June; +and they never have more than one at a time. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +{137} The musk-ox, when full grown, is as large as the generality, or at +least as the middling size, of English black cattle;[AJ] but their legs, +though large, are not so long; nor is their tail longer than that of a +bear; and, like the tail of that animal, it always bends downward and +inward, so that it is entirely hid by the long hair of the rump and hind +quarters: the hunch on their shoulders is not large, being little more +in proportion than that of a deer: their hair is in some parts very +long, particularly on the belly, sides, and hind quarters; but the +longest hair about them, particularly the bulls, is under the throat, +extending from the chin to the lower part of the chest, between the +fore-legs; it there hangs down like a horse's mane inverted, and is full +as long, which makes the animal have a most formidable appearance. It is +of the hair from this part that the Esquimaux make their musketto {138} +wigs, and not from the tail, as is asserted by Mr. Ellis;[AK] their +tails, and the hair which is on them, being too short for that purpose. +In Winter they are provided with a thick fine wool, or furr, that grows +at the root of the long hair, and shields them from the intense cold to +which they are exposed during that season; but as the Summer advances, +this furr loosens from the skin, and, by frequently rolling themselves +on the ground, it works out to the end of the hair, and in time drops +off, leaving little for their Summer clothing except the long hair. The +season is so short in those high latitudes, that the new fleece begins +to appear, almost as soon as the old one drops off; so that by the time +the cold becomes severe, they are again provided with a Winter-dress. + +The flesh of the musk-ox noways resembles that of the Western buffalo, +but is more like that of the moose or elk; and the fat is of a clear +white, slightly tinged with a light azure. The calves and young heifers +are good eating; but the flesh of the bulls both smells and tastes so +strong of musk, as to render it very disagreeable: even the knife that +cuts the flesh of an old bull will smell so strong of musk, that nothing +but scouring the blade quite bright can remove it, and the handle will +retain the scent for a long time. Though no part of a bull is free from +this smell, yet the parts of generation, in particular the _urethra_, +are by far the most strongly impregnated. The {139} urine itself must +contain the scent in a very great degree; for the sheaths of the bull's +_penis_ are corroded with a brown gummy substance, which is nearly as +high-scented with musk as that said to be produced by the civet cat; and +after having been kept for several years, seems not to lose any of its +quality. + +[Sidenote: 8th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +On the eighth, the weather was fine and moderate, though not without +some showers of rain. Early in the morning we set out, and walked +eighteen miles to the Northward. The Indians killed some deer; so we put +up by the side of a small creek, that afforded a few willows, with which +we made a fire for the first time since our leaving Congecathawhachaga; +consequently it was here that we cooked our first meal for a whole week. +This, as may naturally be supposed, was well relished by all parties, +the Indians as well as myself. And as the Sun had, in the course of the +day, dried our clothing, in spite of the small showers of rain, we felt +ourselves more comfortable than we had done since we left the women. The +place where we lay that night, is not far from Grizzled Bear Hill; which +takes its name from the numbers of those animals that are frequently +known to resort thither for the purpose of bringing forth their young in +a cave that is found there. The wonderful description which the Copper +Indians gave of this place exciting the curiosity of several of my +companions as well as myself, we went to view it; but on our arrival at +it {140} found little worth remarking about it, being no more than a +high lump of earth, of a loamy quality, of which kind there are several +others in the same neighbourhood, all standing in the middle of a large +marsh, which makes them resemble so many islands in a lake. The sides of +these hills are quite perpendicular; and the height of Grizzled Bear +Hill, which is the largest, is about twenty feet above the level ground +that surrounds it. Their summits are covered with a thick sod of moss +and long grass, which in some places projects over the edge; and as the +sides are constantly mouldering away, and washing down with every shower +of rain during the short Summer, they must in time be levelled with the +marsh in which they are situated. At present those islands, as I call +them, are excellent places of retreat for the birds which migrate there +to breed; as they can bring forth their young in perfect safety from +every beast except the Quiquehatch,[68] which, from the sharpness of its +claws and the amazing strength of its legs, is capable of ascending the +most difficult precipices. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +On the side of the hill that I went to survey, there is a large cave +which penetrates a considerable way into the rock, and may probably have +been the work of the bears, as we could discover visible marks that some +of those beasts had been there that Spring. This, though deemed very +curious by some of my companions, did not appear so to me, as it neither +engaged my attention, nor raised my {141} surprise, half so much as the +sight of the many hills and dry ridges on the East side of the marsh, +which are turned over like ploughed land by those animals, in searching +for ground-squirrels,[69] and perhaps mice, which constitute a favourite +part of their food. It is surprising to see the extent of their +researches in quest of those animals, and still more to view the +enormous stones rolled out of their beds by the bears on those +occasions. At first I thought these long and deep furrows had been +effected by lightning; but the natives assured me they never knew +anything of the kind happen in those parts, and that it was entirely the +work of the bears seeking for their prey. + +[Sidenote: 9th.] + +[Sidenote: 10th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +On the ninth, the weather was moderate and cloudy, with some flying +showers of rain. We set out early in the morning, and walked about forty +miles to the North and North by East. In our way we saw plenty of deer +and musk-oxen: several of the former the Indians killed, but a smart +shower of rain coming on just as we were going to put up, made the moss +so wet as to render it impracticable to light a fire. The next day +proving fine and clear, we set out in the morning, and walked twenty +miles to the North by West and North North West; but about noon the +weather became so hot and sultry as to render walking very disagreeable; +we therefore put up on the top of a high hill, and as the moss was then +dry, lighted a fire, and should have made a comfortable meal, and been +otherwise tolerably happy, had it not been {142} for the muskettoes, +which were uncommonly numerous, and their stings almost insufferable. +The same day Matonabbee sent several Indians a-head, with orders to +proceed to the Copper-mine River as fast as possible, and acquaint any +Indians they might meet, of our approach. By those Indians I also sent +some small presents, as the surest means to induce any strangers they +found, to come to our assistance. + +[Sidenote: 11th.] + +The eleventh was hot and sultry, like the preceding day. In the morning +we walked ten or eleven miles to the North West, and then met a Northern +Indian Leader, called Oule-eye, and his family, who were, in company +with several Copper Indians, killing deer with bows and arrows and +spears, as they crossed a little river, by the side of which we put up, +as did also the above-mentioned Indians.[AL] That afternoon I smoked my +calumet of peace with these strangers, and found them a quite different +set of people, at least in principle, from those I had seen at +Congecathawhachaga: for though they had great plenty of provisions, they +neither offered me nor my companions a mouthful, and would, if they had +been permitted, have taken the last garment from off my back, and robbed +me of every article I possessed. Even my Northern companions could not +help taking notice of such unaccountable behaviour. Nothing but their +poverty {143} protected them from being plundered by those of my crew; +and had any of their women been worth notice, they would most assuredly +have been pressed into our service. + +[Sidenote: 12th.] + +[Sidenote: 13th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +The twelfth was so exceedingly hot and sultry, that we did not move; but +early in the morning of the thirteenth, after my companions had taken +what dry provisions they chose from our unsociable strangers, we set +out, and walked about fifteen or sixteen miles to the North and North by +East, in expectation of arriving at the Copper-mine River that day; but +when we had reached the top of a long chain of hills, between which we +were told the river ran, we found it to be no more than a branch of it +which empties itself into the main river about forty miles from its +influx into the sea. At that time all the Copper Indians were dispatched +different ways, so that there was not one in company, who knew the +shortest cut to the main river. Seeing some woods to the Westward, and +judging that the current of the rivulet ran that way, we concluded that +the main river lay in that direction, and was not very remote from our +present situation. We therefore directed our course by the side of it, +when the Indians met with several very fine buck deer, which they +destroyed; and as that part we now traversed afforded plenty of good +fire-wood, we put up, and cooked the most comfortable meal to which we +had sat down for some months. As such favourable opportunities of +indulging the appetite happen but seldom, it is a general {144} rule +with the Indians, which we did not neglect, to exert every art in +dressing our food which the most refined skill in Indian cookery has +been able to invent, and which consists chiefly in boiling, broiling, +and roasting: but of all the dishes cooked by those people, a _beeatee_, +as it is called in their language, is certainly the most delicious, at +least for a change, that can be prepared from a deer only, without any +other ingredient. It is a kind of haggis, made with the blood, a good +quantity of fat shred small, some of the tenderest of the flesh, +together with the heart and lungs cut, or more commonly torn into small +shivers; all which is put into the stomach, and roasted, by being +suspended before the fire by a string. Care must be taken that it does +not get too much heat at first, as the bag would thereby be liable to be +burnt, and the contents be let out. When it is sufficiently done, it +will emit steam, in the same manner as a fowl or a joint of meat; which +is as much as to say, Come, eat me now: and if it be taken in time, +before the blood and other contents are too much done, it is certainly a +most delicious morsel, even without pepper, salt, or any other +seasoning. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +After regaling ourselves in the most plentiful manner, and taking a few +hours rest, (for it was almost impossible to sleep for the muskettoes,) +we once more set forward, directing our course to the North West by +West; and after walking about nine or ten miles, arrived at that long +wished-for spot, the Copper-mine River.[70] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[AC] See the Plate, where Fig. A represents the bottom of the canoe, +Fig. B being the fore-part. Fig. C is the complete frame of one before +it is covered with the bark of the birch-tree; it is represented on an +artificial bank, which the natives raise to build it on. Fig. D is an +end-view of a set of timbers, bent and lashed in their proper shape, and +left to dry. Fig. E is the representation of a complete canoe. Fig. F +represents one of their paddles. Fig. G a spear with which they kill +deer; and Fig. H, their mode of carrying the canoe. + +The following references are to the several parts of the canoe: Fig. C. +1. The stem. 2. The stern-post. 3. Two forked sticks supporting the stem +and stern-post. 4. The gunwales. 5. Small rods placed between the +timbers and birch-bark that covers them. 6. The timbers. 7. The keelson. +8. Large stones placed there to keep the bottom steady till the sides +are sewed on. + +[AD] The tobacco used in Hudson's Bay is the Brasil tobacco; which is +twisted into the form of a rope, of near an inch diameter, and then +wound into a large roll; from which it is taken by measures of length, +for the natives. + +[57] Thus, four days after leaving Clowey, travelling in a northerly +direction, they passed out of the wooded region and reached the barren +grounds, though it is evident that there had been open barren grounds to +the east of them for most of the way. Their course probably lay along +the height of land east of Artillery Lake. The northern edge of the +forest and southern line of the barren grounds crosses this lake near +the middle, the most northern woods on its eastern shore being in +latitude 63 deg. 4' N., while on its western side the woods extend north to +latitude 63 deg. 11' N. + +Artillery Lake is thus described by J. W. Tyrrell, who visited it in May +1900:-- + +"Artillery Lake was reached by our outfit on the 26th of May, more than +two weeks after it had been first visited by Fairchild and Acres, when +exploring and 'brushing' the trail for our voyageurs. Then its ice had +been as solid as in winter, showing no signs of disruption or decay, +whereas now it was rapidly decomposing, forming what is known as +candle-ice, and making much open water along the shores. It lies in a +north-easterly and south-westerly direction, and is fifty-five miles in +length, ... and the superficial area of the lake is about one hundred +and ninety square miles. Its shores are bold and high, in some places +about two hundred feet above the lake, and for the most part they +present a bare, desolate appearance, especially on the easterly shore +where few trees of any kind can be seen. + +"Such small groves as were found are shown on the map, but on the +westerly side, about ten miles from the south end, the shore is quite +well timbered with small spruce, and they continue northerly, although +thinly scattered, for a distance of twenty miles, eight miles farther +north than the last grove on the east shore. There the woods cease +entirely." (Report on an Exploratory Survey between Great Slave Lake and +Hudson Bay. By J. W. Tyrrell. Ann. Report, Dept. of the Interior, +Ottawa, 1901. App. 26, Part III., pp. 17-18.) + +[AE] I have observed, during my several journies in those parts, that +all the way to the North of Seal River the edge of the wood is faced +with old withered stumps, and trees which have been blown down by the +wind. They are mostly of the sort which is called here Juniper, but were +seldom of any considerable size. Those blasted trees are found in some +parts to extend to the distance of twenty miles from the living woods, +and detached patches of them are much farther off; which is a proof that +the cold has been increasing in those parts for some ages. Indeed, some +of the older Northern Indians have assured me, that they have heard +their fathers and grandfathers say, they remembered the greatest part of +those places where the trees are now blasted and dead, in a flourishing +state; and that they were remarkable for abounding with deer. It is a +well-known fact, that many deer are fond of frequenting those plains +where the juniper trees abound near barren grounds, particularly in fine +weather during the Winter; but in heavy gales of wind they either take +shelter in the thick woods, or go out on the open plains. The Indians, +who never want a reason for any thing, say, that the deer quit the thin +straggling woods during the high winds, because the nodding of the +trees, when at a considerable distance from each other, frightens them; +but in the midst of a thick forest, the constant rustling of the +branches lulls them into security, and renders them an easy prey to a +skilful hunter. + +[This appears to have been the last wood seen before reaching the +Coppermine River. + +The wood known as juniper on Hudson Bay is the American larch, _Larix +laricina_ (Du Roi) which extends to the edge of the barren grounds.] + +[AF] Probably the same with Partridge Lake in the Map. + +[58] Between Clowey and Peshew or Cat Lake, the map shows that their +course was across Partridge Lake. The exact position of this lake was +made known by Mr. Warburton Pike and afterwards by James W. Tyrrell, who +crossed from Great Slave Lake to Hudson Bay in 1900. It is a small lake +on the river between Artillery and Clinton-Colden Lakes, and lies just a +little north of the southern edge of the barren lands. The name given to +it on the Cook map is Cossadgath and on the Mackenzie map Cassandgath +Lake, which are evidently modifications of the Chipewyan word for +Ptarmigan or "White Partridge." With regard to the limits of Hearne's +course in an east and west direction, it is quite clear that he passed +to the east of Great Slave Lake and to the west of the belt of timber on +Hanbury River, so that he must have passed in the vicinity of this lake +if he did not pass over it. + +Peshew is the Cree word for Wild Cat or Lynx, and therefore Peshew Lake +should be the Cat Lake of the map, and not Partridge Lake as stated in +the note, which was evidently inserted by Dr. Douglas after the author's +death. Peshew or Cat Lake has been identified by Sir George Back, and +following him by Sir John Richardson, as Artillery Lake, but this +identification is almost certainly wrong. The shores of the southern +half of Artillery Lake are wooded, while the Cat Lake of Hearne was +three days' journey at least north of the southern edge of the barren +lands. I think, therefore, that the Peshew or Cat Lake of this map is +the lake which was named by Sir George Back, Clinton-Colden Lake, and +which is known by this name on our present maps. Besides, though this +argument may have little weight, Hearne's map shows Partridge and Cat +Lakes in approximately the same positions in latitude as Partridge Lake +(Kasba) and Clinton-Colden Lake respectively. On the Cook and Mackenzie +maps, Cat Lake is shown as Cheesadawd Lake, which is certainly the same +word as Tchize-ta, which Abbe Petitot says means Gite-du-Lynx or +Home-of-the-Wild-Cat Lake. Petitot, however, states that this is the +name of the lake which is now known as Walmsley Lake. Rt. Rev. J. +Lofthouse, Bishop of Keewatin, also informs me that the Chipewyan name +for Wild Cat or Lynx Lake is Seeza-tua. Another complication is brought +in by the Pennant map, which leaves Hearne's Cat Lake unnamed, and +applies the name Peshew (Cat) Lake to the Lake known on Hearne's map as +No-name Lake. This is much more nearly in the position of Walmsley Lake +of the present maps. It is therefore difficult to avoid the conclusion +that Hearne trusted to his memory for the names of these lakes, and that +his memory failed him here. It is quite possible that after crossing +Partridge Lake the Indians changed their course, for some reason or +other, and turned west or south of west to Walmsley Lake, and that in +the excitement of meeting Keelshies, just from Churchill with a +two-quart keg of brandy, Hearne neglected to make note of the change in +the course. + +[59] Some of the women and children were thus left on the north side of +Peshew, probably Clinton-Colden Lake, and in that case he is correct in +saying that they were north of latitude 64 deg.. At the town of Dawson, in +the Yukon territory, which is in about the same latitude, there is +sufficient light to work and travel at midnight between the 10th of May +and the 1st of August. + +[60] The map shows that he changed his course a little more to the west +from the north shore of Clinton-Colden Lake, but actually he altered his +course more than is there shown, and, while his map is reasonably +correct thus far, it here becomes very inaccurate, and his distances are +greatly exaggerated from this point to the mouth of the Coppermine +River, during the time when the party was hurrying, with the lightest +equipment possible, across the barren lands. The first lake crossed is +said to have been Thoy-noy-kyed Lake, which is identified by Sir John +Richardson as Tha-na-koi or Sand Hill Mount or Aylmer Lake. This lake is +placed by Hearne about seventy-five miles from Cat (Clinton-Colden) +Lake, while actually it is only a very few miles from it, forming, with +it, but one body of water with a rapid between them. On the Cook map it +is shown as having its discharge in a stream flowing south-westward into +the east end of Great Slave Lake. If his Cat Lake should prove to be +Walmsley Lake his distances would not be quite so inaccurate, for +Walmsley and Aylmer Lakes are about fifty miles apart. + +[61] Thoy-coy-lyned Lake has not been definitely located, and as there +are very many lakes still unknown in that country, there is little use +in making a guess at its position. Between it and Cogead Lake, the women +of the party were all left behind at a point which he places in latitude +67 deg. 30', but which must have been much farther south, as we shall see. + +[62] One of these streams, just north of Thoy-coy-lyned Lake, is called +on the map Thlewey-chuck, which means Great-fish River. This can hardly +be the Great Fish River which rises in Sussex Lake and empties into the +Arctic Ocean south of King William Island, but it may be a river +mentioned by Petitot under the name _L'uetchor des tchege_, which is +said by him to flow southward into Great Slave Lake. Or it may be some +other stream known by the same name to the Chipewyan Indians. + +[63] COGEAD LAKE.--This lake has been identified by Sir J. Richardson +with Contwoy-to or Rum Lake of Franklin, the name which it bore in his +day among the Copper Indians. Sir J. Franklin says of it: "The lake is +called by them Contwoy-to or Rum Lake, in consequence of Mr. Hearne +having here given the Indians who accompanied him some of that liquor." +It lies in N. latitude 65 deg. 50', a long way south of the Arctic circle, +and therefore Hearne is in error in the next paragraph when he says that +the sun "did not set all that night." Mr. Frank Russell visited this +district in 1894, and he speaks of a large lake called by the Indians +Ko-[)a]-k[)a]-tcai-t[)i] which he thinks must be the Rum Lake of +Franklin, and consequently the Cogead Lake of Hearne ("Explorations in +the Far North," by Frank Russell, 1898, p. 113). + +[64] This place has also been identified by Sir John Franklin, who says: +"We subsequently learned from the Copper Indians that the part at which +we had crossed the (Anatessy) river was the Congecathawhachaga of +Hearne, of which I had little idea at the time" ("First Journey," p. +405). Sir John Richardson ("Polar Regions," p. 126) makes the following +statement with regard to the identification of this place: + +"Travelling without incumbrance, the war-party, with Hearne in company, +reached a river of some size called Congecawthawhachaga, on the 21st of +June, and there they met a large body of the Copper Indians or Red +Knives, one of whom, then a boy named Cascathry, was well known in +1820-21 to Sir John Franklin. This boy joined the war-party, and in his +old age remembered the circumstances well. Hearne says that he +ascertained with his Elton's quadrant the position of the ferry over the +river to be 68 deg. 46' north, and 118 deg. 15' west of London. According to Sir +John Franklin's observations it lies in 66 deg. 14' N., long. 112 deg. W." + +[AG] See Postlethwayt on the article of Labour. + +[AH] Notwithstanding this is the general character of the Southern +Indian women, as they are called on the coasts of Hudson's Bay, and who +are the same tribe with the Canadian Indians, I am happy to have it in +my power to insert a few lines to the memory of one of them, whom I knew +from her infancy, and who, I can truly affirm, was directly the reverse +of the picture I have drawn. + +MARY, the daughter of MOSES NORTON, many years Chief at Prince of +Wales's Fort, in Hudson's Bay, though born and brought up in a country +of all others the least favourable to virtue and virtuous principles, +possessed them, and every other good and amiable quality, in a most +eminent degree. + +Without the assistance of religion, and with no education but what she +received among the dissolute natives of her country, she would have +shone with superior lustre in any other country: for, if an engaging +person, gentle manners, an easy freedom, arising from a consciousness of +innocence, an amiable modesty, and an unrivalled delicacy of sentiment, +are graces and virtues which render a woman lovely, none ever had +greater pretensions to general esteem and regard: while her benevolence, +humanity, and scrupulous adherence to truth and honesty, would have done +honour to the most enlightened and devout Christian. + +Dutiful, obedient, and affectionate to her parents; steady and faithful +to her friends; grateful and humble to her benefactors; easily forgiving +and forgetting injuries; careful not to offend any, and courteous and +kind to all; she was, nevertheless, suffered to perish by the rigours of +cold and hunger, amidst her own relations, at a time when the griping +hand of famine was by no means severely felt by any other member of +their company; and it may truly be said that she fell a martyr to the +principles of virtue. This happened in the Winter of the year 1782, +after the French had destroyed Prince of Wales's Fort; at which time she +was in the twenty-second year of her age. + +Human nature shudders at the bare recital of such brutality, and reason +shrinks from the task of accounting for the decrees of Providence on +such occasions as this: but they are the strongest assurances of a +future state, so infinitely superior to the present, that the enjoyment +of every pleasure in this world by the most worthless and abandoned +wretch, or the most innocent and virtuous woman perishing by the most +excruciating of all deaths, are matters equally indifferent. But, + + "Peace to the ashes, and the virtuous mind, + Of her who lived in peace with all mankind; + Learn'd from the heart, unknowing of disguise, + Truth in her thoughts, and candour in her eyes; + Stranger alike to envy and to pride, + Good sense her light, and Nature all her guide; + But now removed from all the ills of life, + Here rests the pleasing friend and faithful wife."--WALLER. + +Her father was, undoubtedly, very blamable for bringing her up in the +tender manner which he did, rendering her by that means not only +incapable of bearing the fatigues and hardships which the rest of her +countrywomen think little of, but of providing for herself. This is, +indeed, too frequent a practice among Europeans in that country, who +bring up their children in so indulgent a manner, that when they retire, +and leave their offspring behind, they find themselves so helpless, as +to be unable to provide for the few wants to which they are subject. The +late Mr. Ferdinand Jacobs, many years Chief at York Fort, was the only +person whom I ever knew that acted in a different manner; though no man +could possibly be fonder of his children in other respects, yet as there +were some that he could not bring to England, he had them brought up +entirely among the natives; so that when he left the country, they +scarcely ever felt the loss, though they regretted the absence of a fond +and indulgent parent. + +[AI] Most of the Southern Indians, as well as the Athapuscow and +Neheaway tribes, are entirely without scruple in this respect. It is +notoriously known, that many of them cohabit occasionally with their own +mothers, and frequently espouse their sisters and daughters. I have +known several of them who, after having lived in that state for some +time with their daughters, have given them to their sons, and all +parties been perfectly reconciled to it. + +In fact, notwithstanding the severity of the climate, the licentiousness +of the inhabitants cannot be exceeded by any of the Eastern nations, +whose luxurious manner of life, and genial clime, seem more adapted to +excite extraordinary passions, than the severe cold of the frigid Zone. + +It is true, that few of those who live under the immediate protection of +the English ever take either their sisters or daughters for wives, which +is probably owing to the fear of incurring their displeasure; but it is +well known that acts of incest too often take place among them, though +perhaps not so frequently as among the foreign Indians. + +[65] As seen on page 153, the latitude given for this place is 2 deg. 32' +too far north. Almost any quadrant, however bad, would permit of taking +an observation closer than this; but as the error is approximately two +and a half degrees, his mistake in observing the double altitude would +be five degrees, and if he took an observation at all it is possible +that this error was in making the calculations or in transcribing, +rather than in taking, the observation. + +[66] The position of this lake has not since been determined, and as the +name Musk-Ox Lake seems to be one given by Hearne himself, and as the +Indian name is not given, it will be difficult at any time to identify +it. + +[67] _Ovibos moschatus_ (Zimm.). + +[AJ] Mr. Dragge says, in his Voyage ["An Account of a Voyage for the +Discovery of a North-West Passage," by the Clerk of the _California_, +London, 1748], vol. ii. p. 260, that the musk-ox is lower than a deer, +but larger as to belly and quarters; which is very far from the truth; +they are of the size I have here described them, and the Indians always +estimate the flesh of a full-grown cow to be equal in quantity to three +deer. I am sorry also to be obliged to contradict my friend Mr. Graham, +who says that the flesh of this animal is carried on sledges to Prince +of Wales's Fort, to the amount of three or four thousand pounds +annually. To the amount of near one thousand pounds may have been +purchased from the natives in some particular years, but it more +frequently happens that not an ounce is brought one year out of five. In +fact, it is by no means esteemed by the Company's servants, and of +course no great encouragement is given to introduce it; but if it had +been otherwise, their general situation is so remote from the +settlement, that it would not be worth the Indians while to haul it to +the Fort. So that, in fact, all that has ever been carried to Prince of +Wales's Fort, has most assuredly been killed out of a herd that has been +accidentally found within a moderate distance of the settlement; perhaps +an hundred miles, which is only thought a step by an Indian. + +[AK] Voyage to Hudson's Bay, p. 232. + +[68] _Gulo luscus_ Linn. See p. 346. + +[69] _Citellus parryi_ Richardson.--E. A. P. + +[AL] This river runs nearly North East, and in all probability empties +itself into the Northern Ocean, not far from the Copper River. + +[70] He reached the Coppermine River at Sandstone Rapids, having +travelled one hundred and forty-five miles north-westward from +Congecathawhachaga in thirteen days, making an average of eleven miles a +day, or, omitting the two days on which the party did not travel, an +average of thirteen miles a day. The distance stated in the text is one +hundred and eighty-eight miles. Considering the very rough nature of the +country over which he was travelling, this is not a very extravagant +estimate nor a very unreasonable error. While his estimate of distance +is not very bad, his direction should have been N. 58 deg. W. instead of N. +23 deg. W., as shown on his map. Mr. Frank Russell, who crossed the +Coppermine River in the spring of 1894 while on a hunt for musk oxen, +says that its present Chipewyan name is Tson Te ("Explorations in the +Far North," p. 112). + +In 1821 Sir John Franklin explored and surveyed this river from Point +Lake to the Arctic Ocean, a distance of about two hundred and +seventy-five miles. Its length above Point Lake is not known, but it is +probably about two hundred miles. A short distance below Point Lake +Franklin says that it "is about two hundred yards wide and ten feet +deep, and flows very rapidly over a rocky bottom" ("First Journey," p. +327). + +Sir John Richardson writes of the river farther north as follows: "The +river contracting to a width of a hundred and twenty yards at length +forces itself through the _Rocky Defile_, a narrow channel which it has +cut during a lapse of ages in the shelving foot of a hill" ("First +Journey," p. 527). + + + + +{145} CHAP. VI. + + Transactions at the Copper-mine River, and till we joined all + the women to the South of Cogead Lake. + + _Some Copper Indians join us--Indians send three spies down the + river--Begin my survey--Spies return, and give an account of + five tents of Esquimaux--Indians consult the best method to + steal on them in the night, and kill them while asleep--Cross + the river--Proceedings of the Indians as they advance towards + the Esquimaux tents--The Indians begin the massacre while the + poor Esquimaux are asleep, and slay them all--Much affected at + the sight of one young woman killed close to my feet--The + behaviour of the Indians on this occasion--Their brutish + treatment of the dead bodies--Seven more tents seen on the + opposite side of the river--The Indians harass them, till they + fly to a shoal in the river for safety--Behaviour of the Indians + after killing those Esquimaux--Cross the river, and proceed to + the tents on that side--Plunder their tents, and destroy their + utensils--Continue my survey to the river's mouth--Remarks + there--Set out on my return--Arrive at one of the + Coppermines--Remarks on it--Many attempts made to induce the + Copper Indians to carry their own goods to market--Obstacles to + it--Villany and cruelty of Keelshies to some of those poor + Indians--Leave the Copper-mine, and walk at an amazing rate till + we join the women, by the side of Cogead Whoie--Much + foot-foundered--The appearance very alarming, but soon changes + for the better--Proceed to the Southward, and join the remainder + of the women and children--Many other Indians arrive with them._ + + +[Sidenote: 1771. July. 14th]. + +We had scarcely arrived at the Copper-mine River when four Copper +Indians joined us, and brought with them two canoes. They had seen all +the Indians who were sent from us at various times, except Matonabbee's +{146} brother, and three others that were first dispatched from +Congecathawhachaga. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +On my arrival here I was not a little surprised to find the river differ +so much from the description which the Indians had given of it at the +Factory; for, instead of being so large as to be navigable for shipping, +as it had been represented by them, it was at that part scarcely +navigable for an Indian canoe, being no more than one hundred and eighty +yards wide, every where full of shoals, and no less than three falls +were in sight at first view. + +Near the water's edge there is some wood; but not one tree grows on or +near the top of the hills between which the river runs. There appears to +have been formerly a much greater quantity than there is at present; but +the trees seem to have been set on fire some years ago, and, in +consequence, there is at present ten sticks lying on the ground, for one +green one which is growing beside them. The whole timber appears to have +been, even in its greatest prosperity, of so crooked and dwarfish a +growth as to render it of little use for any purpose but fire-wood. + +Soon after our arrival at the river-side, three Indians were sent off as +spies, in order to see if any Esquimaux were inhabiting the river-side +between us and the sea. After walking about three-quarters of a mile by +the side of the river, we put up, when most of the Indians went a {147} +hunting, and killed several musk-oxen and some deer. They were employed +all the remainder of the day and night in splitting and drying the meat +by the fire. As we were not then in want of provisions, and as deer and +other animals were so plentiful, that each day's journey might have +provided for itself, I was at a loss to account for this unusual +oeconomy of my companions; but was soon informed, that those +preparations were made with a view to have victuals enough ready-cooked +to serve us to the river's mouth, without being obliged to kill any in +our way, as the report of the guns, and the smoke of the fires, would be +liable to alarm the natives, if any should be near at hand, and give +them an opportunity of escaping. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July. 15th.] + +Early in the morning of the fifteenth, we set out, when I immediately +began my survey, which I continued about ten miles down the river, till +heavy rain coming on we were obliged to put up; and the place where we +lay that night was the end, or edge of the woods, the whole space +between it and the sea being entirely barren hills and wide open +marshes. In the course of this day's survey, I found the river as full +of shoals as the part which I had seen before; and in many places it was +so greatly diminished in its width, that in our way we passed by two +more capital falls. + +[Sidenote: 16th.] + +Early in the morning of the sixteenth, the weather being fine and +pleasant, I again proceeded with my survey, and continued it for ten +miles farther down the river; {148} but still found it the same as +before, being every where full of falls and shoals. At this time (it +being about noon) the three men who had been sent as spies met us on +their return, and informed my companions that five tents of Esquimaux +were on the west side of the river. The situation, they said, was very +convenient for surprising them; and, according to their account, I +judged it to be about twelve miles from the place we met the spies. When +the Indians received this intelligence, no farther attendance or +attention was paid to my survey, but their whole thoughts were +immediately engaged in planning the best method of attack, and how they +might steal on the poor Esquimaux the ensuing night, and kill them all +while asleep. To accomplish this bloody design more effectually, the +Indians thought it necessary to cross the river as soon as possible; +and, by the account of the spies, it appeared that no part was more +convenient for the purpose than that where we had met them, it being +there very smooth, and at a considerable distance from any fall. +Accordingly, after the Indians had put all their guns, spears, targets, +&c. in good order, we crossed the river, which took up some time. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +When we arrived on the West side of the river, each painted the front of +his target or shield; some with the figure of the Sun, others with that +of the Moon, several with different kinds of birds and beasts of prey, +and many with the images of imaginary beings, which, {149} according to +their silly notions, are the inhabitants of the different elements, +Earth, Sea, Air, &c. + +On enquiring the reason of their doing so, I learned that each man +painted his shield with the image of that being on which he relied most +for success in the intended engagement. Some were contented with a +single representation; while others, doubtful, as I suppose, of the +quality and power of any single being, had their shields covered to the +very margin with a group of hieroglyphics, quite unintelligible to every +one except the painter. Indeed, from the hurry in which this business +was necessarily done, the want of every colour but red and black, and +the deficiency of skill in the artist, most of those paintings had more +the appearance of a number of accidental blotches, than "of any thing +that is on the earth, or in the water under the earth"; and though some +few of them conveyed a tolerable idea of the thing intended, yet even +these were many degrees worse than our country sign-paintings in +England. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +When this piece of superstition was completed, we began to advance +toward the Esquimaux tents; but were very careful to avoid crossing any +hills, or talking loud, for fear of being seen or overheard by the +inhabitants; by which means the distance was not only much greater than +it otherwise would have been, but, for the sake of keeping in the lowest +grounds, we were obliged to walk through {150} entire swamps of stiff +marly clay, sometimes up to the knees. Our course, however, on this +occasion, though very serpentine, was not altogether so remote from the +river as entirely to exclude me from a view of it the whole way: on the +contrary, several times (according to the situation of the ground) we +advanced so near it, as to give me an opportunity of convincing myself +that it was as unnavigable as it was in those parts which I had +surveyed before, and which entirely corresponded with the accounts +given of it by the spies. + +It is perhaps worth remarking, that my crew, though an undisciplined +rabble, and by no means accustomed to war or command, seemingly acted on +this horrid occasion with the utmost uniformity of sentiment. There was +not among them the least altercation or separate opinion; all were +united in the general cause, and as ready to follow where Matonabbee +led, as he appeared to be ready to lead, according to the advice of an +old Copper Indian, who had joined us on our first arrival at the river +where this bloody business was first proposed. + +Never was reciprocity of interest more generally regarded among a number +of people, than it was on the present occasion by my crew, for not one +was a moment in want of any thing that another could spare; and if ever +the spirit of disinterested friendship expanded the heart of a Northern +Indian, it was here exhibited in the most {151} extensive meaning of the +word. Property of every kind that could be of general use now ceased to +be private, and every one who had any thing which came under that +description, seemed proud of an opportunity of giving it, or lending it +to those who had none, or were most in want of it. + +The number of my crew was so much greater than that which five tents +could contain, and the warlike manner in which they were equipped so +greatly superior to what could be expected of the poor Esquimaux, that +no less than a total massacre of every one of them was likely to be the +case, unless Providence should work a miracle for their deliverance. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +The land was so situated that we walked under cover of the rocks and +hills till we were within two hundred yards of the tents. There we lay +in ambush for some time, watching the motions of the Esquimaux; and here +the Indians would have advised me to stay till the fight was over, but +to this I could by no means consent; for I considered that when the +Esquimaux came to be surprised, they would try every way to escape, and +if they found me alone, not knowing me from an enemy, they would +probably proceed to violence against me when no person was near to +assist. For this reason I determined to accompany them, telling them at +the same time, that I would not have any hand in the murder they were +about to commit, {152} unless I found it necessary for my own safety. +The Indians were not displeased at this proposal; one of them +immediately fixed me a spear, and another lent me a broad bayonet for my +protection, but at that time I could not be provided with a target; nor +did I want to be encumbered with such an unnecessary piece of lumber. + +While we lay in ambush, the Indians performed the last ceremonies which +were thought necessary before the engagement. These chiefly consisted in +painting their faces; some all black, some all red, and others with a +mixture of the two; and to prevent their hair from blowing into their +eyes, it was either tied before and behind, and on both sides, or else +cut short all round. The next thing they considered was to make +themselves as light as possible for running; which they did, by pulling +off their stockings, and either cutting off the sleeves of their +jackets, or rolling them up close to their armpits; and though the +muskettoes at that time were so numerous as to surpass all credibility, +yet some of the Indians actually pulled off their jackets and entered +the lists quite naked, except their breech-cloths and shoes. Fearing I +might have occasion to run with the rest, I thought it also advisable to +pull off my stockings and cap, and to tie my hair as close up as +possible. + +[Sidenote: 17th.] + +By the time the Indians had made themselves thus completely frightful, +it was near one o'clock in the {153} morning of the seventeenth; when +finding all the Esquimaux quiet in their tents, they rushed forth from +their ambuscade, and fell on the poor unsuspecting creatures, +unperceived till close at the very eves of their tents, when they soon +began the bloody massacre, while I stood neuter in the rear. + +[Illustration: _From "Franklin's First Journey."_ +BLOODY FALLS, COPPERMINE RIVER] + +[Illustration: COPPER IMPLEMENTS FROM COPPERMINE RIVER] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +In a few seconds the horrible scene commenced; it was shocking beyond +description; the poor unhappy victims were surprised in the midst of +their sleep, and had neither time nor power to make any resistance; men, +women, and children, in all upward of twenty, ran out of their tents +stark naked, and endeavoured to make their escape; but the Indians +having possession of all the land-side, to no place could they fly for +shelter. One alternative only remained, that of jumping into the river; +but, as none of them attempted it, they all fell a sacrifice to Indian +barbarity! + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +The shrieks and groans of the poor expiring wretches were truly +dreadful; and my horror was much increased at seeing a young girl, +seemingly about eighteen years of age, killed so near me, that when the +first spear was stuck into her side she fell down at my feet, and +twisted round my legs, so that it was with difficulty that I could +disengage myself from her dying grasps. As two Indian men pursued this +unfortunate victim, I solicited very hard for her life; but the +murderers made no reply till they had {154} stuck both their spears +through her body, and transfixed her to the ground. They then looked me +sternly in the face, and began to ridicule me, by asking if I wanted an +Esquimaux wife; and paid not the smallest regard to the shrieks and +agony of the poor wretch, who was twining round their spears like an +eel! Indeed, after receiving much abusive language from them on the +occasion, I was at length obliged to desire that they would be more +expeditious in dispatching their victim out of her misery, otherwise I +should be obliged, out of pity, to assist in the friendly office of +putting an end to the existence of a fellow-creature who was so cruelly +wounded. On this request being made, one of the Indians hastily drew his +spear from the place where it was first lodged, and pierced it through +her breast near the heart. The love of life, however, even in this most +miserable state, was so predominant, that though this might justly be +called the most merciful act that could be done for the poor creature, +it seemed to be unwelcome, for though much exhausted by pain and loss of +blood, she made several efforts to ward off the friendly blow. My +situation and the terror of my mind at beholding this butchery, cannot +easily be conceived, much less described; though I summed up all the +fortitude I was master of on the occasion, it was with difficulty that I +could refrain from tears; and I am confident that my features must have +feelingly expressed how sincerely I was affected at the barbarous scene +I then {155} witnessed; even at this hour I cannot reflect on the +transactions of that horrid day without shedding tears. + +The brutish manner in which these savages used the bodies they had so +cruelly bereaved of life was so shocking, that it would be indecent to +describe it; particularly their curiosity in examining, and the remarks +they made, on the formation of the women; which, they pretended to say, +differed materially from that of their own. For my own part I must +acknowledge, that however favourable the opportunity for determining +that point might have been, yet my thoughts at the time were too much +agitated to admit of any such remarks; and I firmly believe, that had +there actually been as much difference between them as there is said to +be between the Hottentots and those of Europe, it would not have been in +my power to have marked the distinction. I have reason to think, +however, that there is no ground for the assertion; and really believe +that the declaration of the Indians on this occasion, was utterly void +of truth, and proceeded only from the implacable hatred they bore to the +whole tribe of people of whom I am speaking. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +When the Indians had completed the murder of the poor Esquimaux, seven +other tents on the East side of the river immediately engaged their +attention: very luckily, however, our canoes and baggage had been left +at a little distance up the river, so that they had no way of {156} +crossing to get at them. The river at this part being little more than +eighty yards wide, they began firing at them from the West side. The +poor Esquimaux on the opposite shore, though all up in arms, did not +attempt to abandon their tents; and they were so unacquainted with the +nature of fire-arms, that when the bullets struck the ground, they ran +in crowds to see what was sent them, and seemed anxious to examine all +the pieces of lead which they found flattened against the rocks. At +length one of the Esquimaux men was shot in the calf of his leg, which +put them in great confusion. They all immediately embarked in their +little canoes, and paddled to a shoal in the middle of the river, which +being somewhat more than a gun-shot from any part of the shore, put them +out of the reach of our barbarians. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +When the savages discovered that the surviving Esquimaux had gained the +shore above mentioned, the Northern Indians began to plunder the tents +of the deceased of all the copper utensils they could find; such as +hatchets, bayonets, knives, &c. after which they assembled on the top of +an adjacent high hill, and standing all in a cluster, so as to form a +solid circle, with their spears erect in the air, gave many shouts of +victory, constantly clashing their spears against each other, and +frequently calling out _tima! tima!_[AM] by way of derision to the poor +surviving {157} Esquimaux, who were standing on the shoal almost +knee-deep in water. After parading the hill for some time, it was agreed +to return up the river to the place where we had left our canoes and +baggage, which was about half a mile distant, and then to cross the +river again and plunder the seven tents on the East side. This +resolution was immediately put in force; and as ferrying across with +only three or four canoes[AN] took a considerable time, and as we were, +from the crookedness of the river and the form of the land, entirely +under cover, several of the poor surviving Esquimaux, thinking probably +that we were gone about our business, and meant to trouble them no more, +had returned from the shoal to their habitations. When we approached +their tents, which we did under cover of the rocks, we found them busily +employed tying up bundles. These the Indians seized with their usual +ferocity; on which, the Esquimaux having their canoes lying ready in the +water, immediately embarked, and all of them got safe to the former +shoal, except an old man, who was so intent on collecting his things, +that the Indians coming upon him before he could reach his canoe, he +fell a sacrifice to their fury: I verily believe not less than twenty +had a hand in his death, as his whole body was like a cullender. It is +here necessary to observe that the spies {158} when on the look-out, +could not see these seven tents, though close under them, as the bank, +on which they stood, stretched over them. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +[Sidenote: 17th.] + +It ought to have been mentioned in its proper place, that in making our +retreat up the river, after killing the Esquimaux on the West side, we +saw an old woman sitting by the side of the water, killing salmon,[71] +which lay at the foot of the fall as thick as a shoal of herrings. +Whether from the noise of the fall, or a natural defect in the old +woman's hearing, it is hard to determine, but certain it is, she had no +knowledge of the tragical scene which had been so lately transacted at +the tents, though she was not more than two hundred yards from the +place. When we first perceived her, she seemed perfectly at ease, and +was entirely surrounded with the produce of her labour. From her manner +of behaviour, and the appearance of her eyes, which were as red as +blood, it is more than probable that her sight was not very good; for +she scarcely discerned that the Indians were enemies, till they were +within twice the length of their spears of her. It was in vain that she +attempted to fly, for the wretches of my crew transfixed her to the +ground in a few seconds, and butchered her in the most savage manner. +There was scarcely a man among them who had not a thrust at her with his +spear; and many in doing this, aimed at torture, rather than immediate +death, as they not only poked out her eyes, {159} but stabbed her in +many parts very remote from those which are vital. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +It may appear strange, that a person supposed to be almost blind should +be employed in the business of fishing, and particularly with any degree +of success; but when the multitude of fish is taken into the account, +the wonder will cease. Indeed they were so numerous at the foot of the +fall, that when a light pole, armed with a few spikes, which was the +instrument the old woman used, was put under water, and hauled up with a +jerk, it was scarcely possible to miss them. Some of my Indians tried +the method, for curiosity, with the old woman's staff, and seldom got +less than two at a jerk, sometimes three or four. Those fish, though +very fine, and beautifully red, are but small, seldom weighing more (as +near as I could judge) than six or seven pounds, and in general much +less. Their numbers at this place were almost incredible, perhaps equal +to any thing that is related of the salmon in Kamschatka, or any other +part of the world. It does not appear that the Esquimaux have any other +method of catching the fish, unless it be by spears and darts; for no +appearance of nets was discovered either at their tents, or on any part +of the shore. This is the case with all the Esquimaux on the West side +of Hudson's Bay; spearing in Summer, and angling in Winter, are the only +methods they have yet devised to catch fish, though at {160} times their +whole dependence for support is on that article.[AO] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +{161} When the Indians had plundered the seven tents of all the copper +utensils, which seemed the only thing worth {162} their notice, they +threw all the tents and tent-poles into the river, destroyed a vast +quantity of dried salmon, musk-oxen flesh, and other provisions; broke +all the stone kettles; and, in fact, did all the mischief they possibly +could to distress the poor creatures they could not murder, and who were +standing on the shoal before mentioned, obliged to be woeful spectators +of their great, or perhaps irreparable loss. + +After the Indians had completed this piece of wantonness we sat down, +and made a good meal of fresh salmon, which were as numerous at the +place where we now rested, as they were on the West side of the river. +When we had finished our meal, which was the first we had enjoyed for +many hours, the Indians told me that they were again ready to assist me +in making an end of my survey. It was then about five o'clock in the +morning of the seventeenth, the sea being in sight from the North West +by West to the North East, about eight miles distant. I therefore set +instantly about commencing my survey, and pursued it to the mouth of the +river, which I found all the way so full of shoals and falls that it was +not navigable even for a boat, and that it emptied itself into the sea +over a ridge or bar. {163} The tide was then out; but I judged from the +marks which I saw on the edge of the ice, that it flowed about twelve +or fourteen feet, which will only reach a little way within the river's +mouth. The tide being out, the water in the river was perfectly fresh; +but I am certain of its being the sea, or some branch of it, by the +quantity of whalebone and seal-skins which the Esquimaux had at their +tents, and also by the number of seals[72] which I saw on the ice. At +the mouth of the river, the sea is full of islands and shoals, as far as +I could see with the assistance of a good pocket telescope. The ice was +not then broke up, but was melted away for about three quarters of a +mile from the main shore, and to a little distance round the islands and +shoals. + +[Sidenote: 18th.] + +By the time I had completed this survey, it was about one in the morning +of the eighteenth; but in those high latitudes, and at this season of +the year, the Sun is always at a good height above the horizon, so that +we had not only day light, but sunshine the whole night: a thick fog and +drizzling rain then came on, and finding that neither the river nor sea +were likely to be of any use, I did not think it worth while to wait for +fair weather to determine the latitude exactly by an observation; but by +the extraordinary care I took in observing the courses and distances +when I walked from Congecathawhachaga, where I had two good +observations, the latitude may be depended upon within twenty miles at +the utmost. For the sake of form, {164} however, after having had some +consultation with the Indians, I erected a mark, and took possession of +the coast, on behalf of the Hudson's Bay Company.[73] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +Having finished this business, we set out on our return, and walked +about twelve miles to the South by East, when we stopped and took a +little sleep, which was the first time that any of us had closed our +eyes from the fifteenth instant, and it was now six o'clock in the +morning of the eighteenth. Here the Indians killed a musk-ox, but the +moss being very wet, we could not make a fire, so that we were obliged +to eat the meat raw, which was intolerable, as it happened to be an old +beast. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +Before I proceed farther on my return, it may not be improper to give +some account of the river, and the country adjacent; its productions, +and the animals which constantly inhabit those dreary regions, as well +as those that only migrate thither in Summer, in order to breed and rear +their young, unmolested by man. That I may do this to better purpose, +it will be necessary to go back to the place where I first came to the +river, which was about forty miles from its mouth. + +Beside the stunted pines already mentioned, there are some tufts of +dwarf willows; plenty of Wishacumpuckey,[74] (as the English call it, +and which they use as tea); some {165} jackasheypuck, which the natives +use as tobacco; and a few cranberry and heathberry bushes; but not the +least appearance of any fruit. + +The woods grow gradually thinner and smaller as you approach the sea; +and the last little tuft of pines that I saw is about thirty miles from +the mouth of the river, so that we meet with nothing between that spot +and the sea-side but barren hills and marshes. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +The general course of the river is about North by East; but in some +places it is very crooked, and its breadth varies from twenty yards to +four or five hundred. The banks are in general a solid rock, both sides +of which correspond so exactly with each other, as to leave no doubt +that the channel of the river has been caused by some terrible +convulsion of nature; and the stream is supplied by a variety of little +rivulets, that rush down the sides of the hills, occasioned chiefly by +the melting of the snow. Some of the Indians say, that this river takes +its rise from the North West side of Large White Stone Lake, which is at +the distance of near three hundred miles on a straight line; but I can +scarcely think that is the case, unless there be many intervening lakes, +which are supplied by the vast quantity of water that is collected in so +great an extent of hilly and mountainous country: for were it otherwise, +I should imagine that the multitude of small rivers, which must empty +themselves into the main stream in the course of so {166} great a +distance, would have formed a much deeper and stronger current than I +discovered, and occasioned an annual deluge at the breaking up of the +ice in the Spring, of which there was not the least appearance, except +at Bloody Fall, where the river was contracted to the breadth of about +twenty yards. It was at the foot of this fall that my Indians killed the +Esquimaux; which was the reason why I distinguished it by that +appellation. From this fall, which is about eight miles from the +sea-side, there are very few hills, and those not high. The land between +them is a stiff loam and clay, which, in some parts, produces patches of +pretty good grass, and in others tallish dwarf willows: at the foot of +the hills also there is plenty of fine scurvy-grass. + +The Esquimaux at this river are but low in stature, none exceeding the +middle size, and though broad set, are neither well-made nor strong +bodied. Their complexion is of a dirty copper colour; some of the women, +however, are more fair and ruddy. Their dress much resembles that of the +Greenlanders in Davis's Straits, except the women's boots, which are not +stiffened out with whalebone, and the tails of their jackets are not +more than a foot long. + +Their arms and fishing-tackle are bows and arrows, spears, lances, +darts, &c. which exactly resemble those made use of by the Esquimaux in +Hudson's Straits, and {167} which have been well described by +Crantz[AP]; but, for want of good edge-tools, are far inferior to them +in workmanship. Their arrows are either shod with a triangular piece of +black stone, like slate, or a piece of copper; but most commonly the +former. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +The body of their canoes is on the same construction as that of the +other Esquimaux, and there is no unnecessary prow-projection beyond the +body of the vessel; these, like their arms and other utensils, are, for +the want of better tools, by no means so neat as those I have seen in +Hudson's Bay and Straits. The double-bladed paddle is in universal use +among all the tribes of this people. + +Their tents are made of parchment deer-skins in the hair, and are +pitched in a circular form, the same as those of the Esquimaux in +Hudson's Bay. These tents are undoubtedly no more than their Summer +habitations, for I saw the remains of two miserable hovels, which, from +the situation, the structure, and the vast quantity of bones, old shoes, +scraps of skins, and other rubbish lying near them, had certainly been +some of their Winter retreats. These houses were situated on the South +side of a hill; one half of them were under-ground, and the upper parts +closely set round with poles, meeting at the top in a conical form, like +their Summer-houses or tents. These tents, {168} when inhabited, had +undoubtedly been covered with skins; and in Winter entirely overspread +with the snow-drift, which must have greatly contributed to their +warmth. They were so small, that they did not contain more than six or +eight persons each; and even that number of any other people would have +found them but miserable habitations. + +Their household furniture chiefly consists of stone kettles, and wooden +troughs of various sizes; also dishes, scoops, and spoons, made of the +buffalo or musk-ox horns. Their kettles are formed of a pepper and salt +coloured stone; and though the texture appears to be very coarse, and as +porous as a dripstone, yet they are perfectly tight, and will sound as +clear as a china bowl. Some of those kettles are so large as to be +capable of containing five or six gallons; and though it is impossible +these poor people can perform this arduous work with any other tools +than harder stones, yet they are by far superior to any that I had ever +seen in Hudson's Bay; every one of them being ornamented with neat +mouldings round the rim, and some of the large ones with a kind of +flute-work at each corner. In shape they were a long square, something +wider at the top than bottom, like a knife-tray, and strong handles of +the solid stone were left at each end to lift them up. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +Their hatchets are made of a thick lump of copper, about five or six +inches long, and from one and a half to two inches square; they are +bevelled away at one end like a {169} mortice-chissel. This is lashed +into the end of a piece of wood about twelve or fourteen inches long, in +such a manner as to act like an adze: in general they are applied to the +wood like a chissel, and driven in with a heavy club, instead of a +mallet. Neither the weight of the tool nor the sharpness of the metal +will admit of their being handled either as adze or axe, with any degree +of success. + +The men's bayonets and women's knives are also made of copper; the +former are in shape like the ace of spades, with the handle of deers +horn a foot long, and the latter exactly resemble those described by +Crantz. Samples of both these implements I formerly sent home to James +Fitzgerald, Esq. then one of the Hudson's Bay Committee. + +Among all the spoils of the twelve tents which my companions plundered, +only two small pieces of iron were found; one of which was about an inch +and a half long, and three eighths of an inch broad, made into a woman's +knife; the other was barely an inch long, and a quarter of an inch wide. +This last was rivetted into a piece of ivory, so as to form a man's +knife, known in Hudson's Bay by the name of _Mokeatoggan_, and is the +only instrument used by them in shaping all their wood-work. + +Those people had a fine and numerous breed of dogs, with sharp erect +ears, sharp noses, bushy tails, &c. {170} exactly like those seen among +the Esquimaux in Hudson's Bay and Straits. They were all tethered to +stones, to prevent them, as I suppose, from eating the fish that were +spread all over the rocks to dry. I do not recollect that my companions +killed or hurt one of those animals; but after we had left the tents, +they often wished they had taken some of those fine dogs with them. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +Though the dress, canoes, utensils, and many other articles belonging to +these people, are very similar to those of Hudson's Bay, yet there is +one custom that prevails among them--namely, that of the men having all +the hair of their heads pulled out by the roots--which pronounces them +to be of a different tribe from any hitherto seen either on the coast of +Labradore, Hudson's Bay, or Davis's Straits. The women wore their hair +at full length, and exactly in the same stile as all the other Esquimaux +women do whom I have seen. + +When at the sea-side, (at the mouth of the Copper River,) besides seeing +many seals on the ice, I also observed several flocks of sea-fowl flying +about the shores; such as, gulls, black-heads, loons, old wives, +ha-ha-wie's, dunter geese, arctic gulls, and willicks. In the adjacent +ponds also were some swans and geese in a moulting state, and in the +marshes some curlews and plover; plenty of hawks-eyes, (i.e. the green +plover,) and some yellow-legs;[75] also several other small birds, that +visit those Northern parts in the {171} Spring to breed and moult, and +which doubtless return Southward as the fall advances. My reason for +this conjecture is founded on a certain knowledge that all those birds +migrate in Hudson's Bay; and it is but reasonable to think that they are +less capable of withstanding the rigour of such a long and cold Winter +as they must necessarily experience in a country which is so many +degrees within the Arctic Circle, as that is where I now saw them. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +That the musk-oxen, deer, bears, wolves, wolvarines, foxes, Alpine +hares,[76] white owls, ravens, partridges, ground-squirrels, common +squirrels, ermins, mice, &c. are the constant inhabitants of those +parts, is not to be doubted. In many places, by the sides of the hills, +where the snow lay to a great depth, the dung of the musk-oxen and deer +was lying in such long and continued heaps, as clearly to point out that +those places had been their much-frequented paths during the preceding +Winter. There were also many other similar appearances on the hills, and +other parts, where the snow was entirely thawed away, without any print +of a foot being visible in the moss; which is a certain proof that these +long ridges of dung must have been dropped in the snow as the beasts +were passing and repassing over it in the Winter. There are likewise +similar proofs that the Alpine hare[77] and the partridge[78] do not +migrate, but remain there the whole year: the latter we found in +considerable flocks among the tufts of willows which grow near the sea. + +{172} It is perhaps not generally known, even to the curious, therefore +may not be unworthy of observation, that the dung of the musk-ox, though +so large an animal, is not larger, and at the same time so near the +shape and colour of that of the Alpine hare, that the difference is not +easily distinguished but by the natives, though in general the quantity +may lead to a discovery of the animal to which it belongs. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +I did not see any birds peculiar to those parts, except what the Copper +Indians call the "Alarm Bird," or "Bird of Warning."[79] In size and +colour it resembles a Cobadekoock, and is of the owl genus. The name is +said to be well adapted to its qualities; for when it perceives any +people, or beast, it directs its way towards them immediately, and after +hovering over them some time, flies round them in circles, or goes +a-head in the same direction in which they walk. They repeat their +visits frequently; and if they see any other moving objects, fly +alternately from one party to the other, hover over them for some time, +and make a loud screaming noise, like the crying of a child. In this +manner they are said sometimes to follow passengers a whole day. The +Copper Indians put great confidence in those birds, and say they are +frequently apprized by them of the approach of strangers, and conducted +by them to herds of deer and musk-oxen; which, without their assistance, +in all probability, they never could have found. + +{173} The Esquimaux seem not to have imbibed the same opinion of those +birds; for if they had, they must have been apprized of our approach +toward their tents, because all the time the Indians lay in ambush, +(before they began the massacre,) a large flock of those birds were +continually flying about, and hovering alternately over them and the +tents, making a noise sufficient to awaken any man out of the soundest +sleep. + +After a sleep of five or six hours we once more set out, and walked +eighteen or nineteen miles to the South South East, when we arrived at +one of the copper mines, which lies, from the river's mouth about South +South East, distant about twenty-nine or thirty miles. + +This mine, if it deserve that appellation, is no more than an entire +jumble of rocks and gravel, which has been rent many ways by an +earthquake. Through these ruins there runs a small river; but no part of +it, at the time I was there, was more than knee-deep.[80] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +The Indians who were the occasion of my undertaking this journey, +represented this mine to be so rich and valuable, that if a factory were +built at the river, a ship might be ballasted with the ore, instead of +stone; and that with the same ease and dispatch as is done with stones +at Churchill River. By their account the hills were entirely composed of +that metal, all in handy lumps, like {174} a heap of pebbles. But their +account differed so much from the truth, that I and almost all my +companions expended near four hours in search of some of this metal, +with such poor success, that among us all, only one piece of any size +could be found. This, however, was remarkably good, and weighed above +four pounds.[AQ] I believe the copper has formerly been in much greater +plenty; for in many places, both on the surface and in the cavities and +crevices of the rocks, the stones are much tinged with verdigrise. + +It may not be unworthy the notice of the curious, or undeserving a place +in my Journal, to remark, that the Indians imagine that every bit of +copper they find resembles some object in nature; but by what I saw of +the large piece, and some smaller ones which were found by my +companions, it requires a great share of invention to make this out. I +found that different people had different ideas on the subject, for the +large piece of copper above mentioned had not been found long before it +had twenty different names. One saying that it resembled this animal, +and another that it represented a particular part of another; at last it +was generally allowed to resemble an Alpine hare couchant: for my part, +I must confess that I could not see it had the least resemblance to any +thing to which they compared it. It would be endless to {175} enumerate +the different parts of a deer, and other animals, which the Indians say +the best pieces of copper resemble: it may therefore be sufficient to +say, that the largest pieces, with the fewest branches and the least +dross, are the best for their use; as by the help of fire, and two +stones, they can beat it out to any shape they wish. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +Before Churchill River was settled by the Hudson's Bay Company, which +was not more than fifty years previous to this journey being undertaken, +the Northern Indians had no other metal but copper among them, except a +small quantity of iron-work, which a party of them who visited York Fort +about the year one thousand seven hundred and thirteen, or one thousand +seven hundred and fourteen, purchased; and a few pieces of old iron +found at Churchill River, which had undoubtedly been left there by +Captain Monk. This being the case, numbers of them from all quarters +used every Summer to resort to these hills in search of copper; of which +they made hatchets, ice-chissels, bayonets, knives, awls, arrow-heads, +&c.[AR] The many {176} paths that had been beaten by the Indians on +these occasions, and which are yet, in many places, very perfect, +especially on the dry ridges and hills, is surprising; in the vallies +and marshy grounds, however, they are mostly grown over with herbage, so +as not to be discerned. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +The Copper Indians set a great value on their native metal even to this +day; and prefer it to iron, for almost every use except that of a +hatchet, a knife, and an awl: for these three necessary implements, +copper makes but a very poor substitute. When they exchange copper for +iron-work with our trading Northern Indians, which is but seldom, the +standard is an ice-chissel of copper for an ice-chissel of iron, or an +ice-chissel and a few arrow-heads of copper, for a half-worn hatchet; +but when they barter furrs with our Indians, the established rule is to +give ten times the price for every thing they purchase that is given for +them at the Company's Factory. Thus, a hatchet that is bought at the +Factory for one beaver-skin, or one cat-skin, or three ordinary martins' +skins, is sold to {177} those people at the advanced price of one +thousand _per cent._; they also pay in proportion, for knives, and every +other smaller piece of iron-work. For a small brass kettle of two +pounds, or two pounds and a half weight, they pay sixty martins, or +twenty beaver in other kinds of furrs.[AS] If the kettles are not +bruised, or ill-used in any other respect, the Northern traders have the +conscience at times to exact something more. It is at this extravagant +price that all the Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians, who traffic with our +yearly traders, supply themselves with iron-work, &c. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +From those two tribes our Northern Indians used formerly to purchase +most of the furrs they brought to the Company's Factory; for their own +country produced very few of those articles, and being, at that time, at +war with the Southern Indians, they were prevented from penetrating far +enough backwards to meet with many animals of the furr kind; so that +deer-skins, and {178} such furrs as they could extort from the Copper +and Dog-ribbed Indians, composed the whole of their trade; which, on an +average of many years, and indeed till very lately, seldom or ever +exceeded six thousand _Made Beaver per annum_. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +At present happy it is for them, and greatly to the advantage of the +Company, that they are in perfect peace, and live in friendship with +their Southern neighbours. The good effect of this harmony is already so +visible, that within a few years the trade from that quarter has +increased many thousands of Made Beaver annually; some years even to the +amount of eleven thousand skins.[AT] Besides {179} the advantage arising +to the Company from this increase, the poor Northern Indians reap +innumerable benefits from a fine and plentiful country, with the produce +of which they annually load themselves for trade, without giving the +least offence to the proper inhabitants. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +Several attempts have been made to induce the Copper and Dog-ribbed +Indians to visit the Company's Fort at Churchill River, and for that +purpose many presents have been sent, but they never were attended with +any success. And though several of the Copper Indians have visited +Churchill, in the capacity of servants to the Northern Indians, and were +generally sent back loaded with presents for their countrymen, yet the +Northern Indians always plundered them of the whole soon after they left +the Fort. This kind of treatment, added to the many inconveniences that +attend so long a journey, are great obstacles in their way; otherwise it +would be as possible for them to bring their own goods to market, as for +the Northern Indians to go so far to purchase them on their own account, +{180} and have the same distance to bring them as the first proprietors +would have had. But it is a political scheme of our Northern traders to +prevent such an intercourse, as it would greatly lessen their +consequence and emolument. Superstition, indeed, will, in all +probability, be a lasting barrier against those people ever having a +settled communication with our Factory; as few of them chuse to travel +in countries so remote from their own, under a pretence that the change +of air and provisions (though exactly the same to which they are +accustomed) are highly prejudicial to their health; and that not one out +of three of those who have undertaken the journey, have ever lived to +return. The first of these reasons is evidently no more than gross +superstition; and though the latter is but too true, it has always been +owing to the treachery and cruelty of the Northern Indians, who took +them under their protection. + +It is but a few years since, that Captain Keelshies, who is frequently +mentioned in this Journal, took twelve of these people under his charge, +all heavy laden with the most valuable furrs; and long before they +arrived at the Fort, he and the rest of his crew had got all the furrs +from them, in payment for provisions for their support, and obliged them +to carry the furrs on their account. + +On their arrival at Prince of Wales's Fort, Keelshies laid claim to +great merit for having brought those strangers, {181} so richly laden, +to the Factory, and assured the Governor that he might, in future, +expect a great increase in trade from that quarter, through his interest +and assiduity. One of the strangers was dubbed with the name of Captain, +and treated accordingly, while at the Fort; that is, he was dressed out +in the best manner; and at his departure, both himself and all his +countrymen were loaded with presents, in hopes that they would not only +repeat the visit themselves, but by displaying so much generosity, many +of their countrymen would be induced to accompany them. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +There seems to be great propriety in the conduct of the Governor[AU] on +this occasion; but however well-intended, it had quite the contrary +effect, for Keelshies and the rest of his execrable gang, not content +with sharing all the furrs those poor people had carried to the Fort, +determined to get also all the European goods that had been given to +them by the Governor. As neither Keelshies nor any of his gang had the +courage to kill the Copper Indians, they concerted a deep-laid scheme +for their destruction; which was to leave them on an island. With this +view, when they got to the proposed spot, the Northern Indians took care +to have all the baggage belonging to the Copper Indians ferried across +to the main, and having stripped them of such parts of their clothing as +they {182} thought worthy their notice, went off with all the canoes, +leaving them all behind on the island, where they perished for want. +When I was on my journey to the Fort in June one thousand seven hundred +and seventy two, I saw the bones of those poor people, and had the +foregoing account from my guide Matonabbee; but it was not made known to +the Governor for some years afterward, for fear of prejudicing him +against Keelshies. + +A similar circumstance had nearly happened to a Copper Indian who +accompanied me to the Fort in one thousand seven hundred and +seventy-two: after we were all ferried across Seal River, and the poor +man's bundle of furrs on the South-side, he was left alone on the +opposite shore; and no one except Matonabbee would go over for him. The +wind at that time blew so hard, that Matonabbee stripped himself quite +naked, to be ready for swimming in case the canoe should overset; but he +soon brought the Copper Indian safe over, to the no small mortification +of the wretch who had the charge of him, and who would gladly have +possessed the bundle of furrs at the expence of the poor man's life. + +When the Northern Indians returned from the Factory that year, the above +Copper Indian put himself under the protection of Matonabbee, who +accompanied him as far North, as the latitude 64 deg., where they saw some +Copper Indians, among whom was the young man's father, into {183} whose +hands Matonabbee delivered him in good health, with all his goods safe, +and in good order. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +Soon after we had left the Coppermine, there came on a thick fog with +rain, and at intervals heavy showers of snow. This kind of weather +continued for some days; and at times it was so thick, that we were +obliged to stop for several hours together, as we were unable to see our +way, and the road was remarkably rocky and intricate. + +[Sidenote: 22d.] + +At three o'clock in the morning of the twenty-second, Matonabbee's +brother and one of the Copper Indians, who had been first dispatched +a-head from Congecathawhachaga, overtook us. During their absence they +had not discovered any Indians who could have been serviceable to my +expedition. They had, however, been at the Copper River, and seeing some +marks set up there to direct them to return, they had made the best of +their way, and had not slept from the time they left the river till they +joined us, though the distance was not less than a hundred miles. When +they arrived we were asleep, but we soon awakened, and began to proceed +on our journey. That day we walked forty-two miles; and in our way +passed Buffalo Lake: at night, we put up about the middle of the Stony +Mountains. The weather was excessively hot and sultry. + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +{184} On the twenty-third, the weather continued much the same as on the +preceding day. Early in the morning we set out, and walked forty-five +miles the first day, during which the Indians killed several fine fat +buck deer. + +[Sidenote: 24th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +About one o'clock in the morning of the twenty-fourth, we stopped and +took a little refreshment, as we had also done about noon the preceding +day; but the Indians had been so long from their wives and families, +that they promised not to sleep till they saw them, especially as we +were then in sight of the hills of Congecathawhachaga,[83] where we had +left the last of them. After resting about an hour, we proceeded on our +way, and at six in the morning arrived at Congecathawhachaga; when, to +our great disappointment, we found that all our women had got set across +the river before the Copper Indians left that part; so that when we +arrived, not an Indian was to be found, except an old man and his +family, who had arrived in our absence, and was waiting at the +crossing-place with some furrs for Matonabbee, who was so nearly related +to the old man as to be his son-in-law, having one of his daughters for +a wife. The old man had another with him, who was also offered to the +great man, but not accepted. + +Our stay at this place may be said to have been of very short duration; +for on seeing a large smoke to the Southward, we immediately crossed the +river, and walked towards it, {185} when we found that the women had +indeed been there some days before, but were gone; and at their +departure had set the moss on fire, which was then burning, and +occasioned the smoke we had seen. By this time the afternoon was far +advanced; we pursued, however, our course in the direction which the +women took, for their track we could easily discover in the moss. We had +not gone far, before we saw another smoke at a great distance, for which +we shaped our course; and, notwithstanding we redoubled our pace, it was +eleven o'clock at night before we reached it; when, to our great +mortification, we found it to be the place where the women had slept the +night before; having in the morning, at their departure, set fire to the +moss which was then burning. + +[Sidenote: 25th.] + +The Indians, finding that their wives were so near as to be within one +of their ordinary day's walk, which seldom exceeded ten or twelve miles, +determined not to rest till they had joined them. Accordingly we pursued +our course, and about two o'clock in the morning of the twenty-fifth, +came up with some of the women, who had then pitched their tents by the +side of Cogead Lake.[84] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +From our leaving the Copper-mine River to this time we had travelled so +hard, and taken so little rest by the way, that my feet and legs had +swelled considerably, and I had become quite stiff at the ankles. In +this situation I had {186} so little power to direct my feet when +walking, that I frequently knocked them against the stones with such +force, as not only to jar and disorder them, but my legs also; and the +nails of my toes were bruised to such a degree, that several of them +festered and dropped off. To add to this mishap, the skin was entirely +chafed off from the tops of both my feet, and between every toe; so that +the sand and gravel, which I could by no means exclude, irritated the +raw parts so much, that for a whole day before we arrived at the women's +tents, I left the print of my feet in blood almost at every step I took. +Several of the Indians began to complain that their feet also were sore; +but, on examination, not one of them was the twentieth part in so bad a +state as mine. + +This being the first time I had been in such a situation, or seen +anybody foot-foundered, I was much alarmed, and under great +apprehensions for the consequences. Though I was but little fatigued in +body, yet the excruciating pain I suffered when walking, had such an +effect on my spirits, that if the Indians had continued to travel two or +three days longer at that unmerciful rate, I must unavoidably have been +left behind; for my feet were in many places quite honey-combed, by the +dirt and gravel eating into the raw flesh. + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +As soon as we arrived at the women's tents, the first thing I did, was +to wash and clean my feet in {187} warm water; then I bathed the swelled +parts with spirits of wine, and dressed those that were raw with +Turner's cerate; soon after which I betook myself to rest. As we did not +move on the following day, I perceived that the swelling abated, and the +raw parts of my feet were not quite so much inflamed. This change for +the better gave me the strongest assurance that rest was the principal +thing wanted to effect a speedy and complete cure of my painful, though +in reality very simple disorder, (foot-foundering,) which I had before +considered to be an affair of the greatest consequence. + +[Sidenote: 27th.] + +Rest, however, though essential to my speedy recovery, could not at this +time be procured; for as the Indians were desirous of joining the +remainder of their wives and families as soon as possible, they would +not stop even a single day; so that on the twenty-seventh we again began +to move; and though they moved at the rate of eight or nine miles a day, +it was with the utmost difficulty that I could follow them. Indeed the +weather proved remarkably fine and pleasant, and the ground was in +general pretty dry, and free from stones; which contributed greatly to +my ease in walking, and enabled me to keep up with the natives. + +[Sidenote: 31st.] + +[Sidenote: August. 1st.] + +[Sidenote: 5th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. July.] + +On the thirty-first of July, we arrived at the place[85] where the wives +and families of my companions had been ordered to wait our return from +the Copper-mine River. Here we found several tents of Indians; but those +{188} belonging to Matonabbee, and some others of my crew, had not +arrived. We saw, however, a large smoke to the Eastward, which we +supposed had been made by them, as no other Indians were expected from +that quarter. Accordingly, the next morning, Matonabbee sent some of his +young men in quest of them, and on the fifth, they all joined us; when, +contrary to expectation, a great number of other Indians were with them; +in all, to the amount of more than forty tents. Among those Indians, was +the man who Matonabbee stabbed when we were at Clowey. With the greatest +submission he led his wife to Matonabbee's tent, set her down by his +side, and retired, without saying a word. Matonabbee took no notice of +her, though she was bathed in tears; and by degrees, after reclining +herself on her elbow for some time, she lay down, and, sobbing, said, +_see'd dinne_, _see'd dinne!_ which is, My husband, my husband! On which +Matonabbee told her, that if she had respected him as such, she would +not have run away from him; and that she was at liberty to go where she +pleased. On which she got up, with seeming reluctance, though most +assuredly with a light heart, and returned to her former husband's tent. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[AM] _Tima_ in the Esquimaux language is a friendly word similar to +_what cheer?_ + +[AN] When the fifteen Indians turned back at the Stony Mountains, they +took two or three canoes with them; some of our crew that were sent +a-head as messengers had not yet returned, which occasioned the number +of our canoes to be so small. + +[71] Probably some form of the wide-ranging _Salmo alpinus_.--E. A. P. + +[AO] When the Esquimaux who reside near Churchill River travel in +Winter, it is always from lake to lake, or from river to river, where +they have formed magazines of provisions, and heaps of moss for firing. +As some of those places are at a considerable distance from each other, +and some of the lakes of considerable width, they frequently pitch their +tents on the ice, and instead of having a fire, which the severity of +the climate so much requires, they cut holes in the ice within their +tents, and there sit and angle for fish; if they meet with any success, +the fish are eaten alive out of the water; and when they are thirsty, +water, their usual beverage, is at hand. + +When I first entered into the employment of the Hudson's Bay Company, it +was as Mate of one of their sloops which was employed in trading with +the Esquimaux: I had therefore frequent opportunities of observing the +miserable manner in which those people live. In the course of our trade +with them we frequently purchased several seal-skin bags, which we +supposed were full of oil; but on opening them have sometimes found +great quantities of venison, seals, and sea-horse paws, as well as +salmon: and as these were of no use to us, we always returned them to +the Indians, who eagerly devoured them, though some of the articles had +been perhaps a whole year in that state; and they seemed to exult +greatly in having so over-reached us in the way of trade, as to have +sometimes one third of their bargain returned. + +This method of preserving their food, though it effectually guards it +from the external air, and from the flies, does not prevent putrefaction +entirely, though it renders its progress very slow. Pure train oil is of +such a quality that it never freezes solid in the coldest Winters; a +happy circumstance for those people, who are condemned to live in the +most rigorous climate without the assistance of fire. While these +magazines last, they have nothing more to do when hunger assails them, +but to open one of the bags, take out a side of venison, a few seals, +sea-horse paws, or some half-rotten salmon, and without any preparation, +sit down and make a meal; and the lake or river by which they pitch +their tent, affords them water, which is their constant drink. Besides +the extraordinary food already mentioned, they have several other dishes +equally disgusting to an European palate; I will only mention one, as it +was more frequently part of their repast when I visited their tents, +than any other, except fish. The dish I allude to, is made of the raw +liver of a deer, cut in small pieces of about an inch square, and mixed +up with the contents of the stomach of the same animal; and the farther +digestion has taken place, the better it is suited to their taste. It is +impossible to describe or conceive the pleasure they seem to enjoy when +eating such unaccountable food: nay, I have even seen them eat whole +handfuls of maggots that were produced in meat by fly-blows; and it is +their constant custom, when their noses bleed by any accident, to lick +their blood into their mouths, and swallow it. Indeed, if we consider +the inhospitable part of the globe they are destined to inhabit, and the +great distresses to which they are frequently driven by hunger in +consequence of it, we shall no longer be surprized at finding they can +relish any thing in common with the meanest of the animal creation, but +rather admire the wisdom and kindness of Providence in forming the +palates and powers of all creatures in such a manner as is best adapted +to the food, climate, and every other circumstance which may be incident +to their respective situations. + +It is no less true, that these people, when I first knew them, would not +eat any of our provisions, sugar, raisins, figs, or even bread; for +though some of them would put a bit of it into their mouths, they soon +spit it out again with evident marks of dislike; so that they had no +greater relish for our food than we had for theirs. At present, however, +they will eat any part of our provisions, either fresh or salted; and +some of them will drink a draft of porter, or a little brandy and water; +and they are now so far civilized, and attached to the English, that I +am persuaded any of the Company's servants who could habituate +themselves to their diet and manner of life, might now live as secure +under their protection, as under that of any of the tribes of Indians +who border on Hudson's Bay. + +They live in a state of perfect freedom; no one apparently claiming the +superiority over, or acknowledging the least subordination to another, +except what is due from children to their parents, or such of their kin +as take care of them when they are young and incapable of providing for +themselves. There is, however, reason to think that, when grown up to +manhood, they pay some attention to the advice of the old men, on +account of their experience. + +[72] Several species inhabit the region; the commonest is the ringed or +fetid seal (_Phoca hispida_).--E. A. P. + +[73] In the summer of 1821, fifty years after Hearne's visit, Sir John +Franklin, accompanied by Sir John Richardson and Sir George Back, +descended and surveyed the Coppermine River from Point Lake to the sea. +He was at the Bloody Falls from the 15th to the 18th of July, exactly +fifty years after Hearne, and found the latitude to be 67 deg. 42' 35" N. He +speaks of it as follows: + +"Several human skulls which bore the marks of violence, and many bones +were strewed about the ground near the encampment, and as the spot +exactly answers the description, given by Mr. Hearne, of the place where +the Chipewyans who accompanied him perpetrated the dreadful massacre on +the Esquimaux, we had no doubt of this being the place. This rapid is a +sort of shelving cascade, about three hundred yards in length, having a +descent of from ten to fifteen feet. It is bounded on each side by high +walls of red sandstone, upon which rests a series of lofty green hills. +The surrounding scenery was accurately delineated in a sketch taken by +Mr. Hood" ("First Journey," pp. 349-350). + +In 1838 Thomas Simpson determined the latitude of Bloody Falls as 67 deg. +42' 52" ("Narrative of Discoveries," Thomas Simpson, p. 261). + +Sir John Richardson revisited the lower part of the Coppermine River in +1826, and again in 1848, and he knew it better than any other white man. +Speaking of Hearne, he says: "His description of the lower part of the +Coppermine River is evidently that of one who has been on the spot." + +"He appears to have fallen on the Coppermine River first at the +Sandstone rapids of Franklin, and to have traced it to Bloody Falls; but +as, contrary to his usual practice, he under-rates the distance from +thence to the coast, we are led to conclude that he did not actually go +down to the sea, but was content to view it from the top of the hill +which overhangs the falls; and, indeed, it is not very probable that he +could have induced the Indians, over whom he had little influence, to +accompany him on his survey, after they had completed the massacre which +was the object of their long and laborious journey; nor, had he gone +actually to the mouth of the river, would he have mentioned marks of a +tide fourteen feet high" (Back, pp. 147-151). + +Hearne's description of the occurrence of the timber on the banks of the +river, is particularly accurate, and I am inclined to give him credit +for having been at or near the mouth of the river, even though his +statement in regard to the rise and fall of the tide is inaccurate. + +[74] Wishacumpuckey is one of the species of _Ledum_; jackasheypuck = +_Arctostaphylos uvaursi_ Spreng.; cranberry = _Vaccinium vitisidaea_ +Linn.; heathberry probably = _Empetrum nigrum_ Linn.--E. A. P. + +[AP] See Hist. of Greenland, vol. i. pp. 132-156. + +[75] Gull = _Larus_; blackhead = _Sterna paradisaea_ Bruenn; loon = +_Gavia_; old-wife = _Harelda hyemalis_ Linn.; ha-ha-wie = _Harelda +hyemalis_ Linn.; hawks-eye = _Charadrius dominicus_ Muell.; yellow-legs = +_Totanus flavipes_ Gmel.--E. A. P. + +[76] For descriptions of these mammals see Chapter X. + +[77] _Lepus arcticus canus_ Preble. + +[78] _Lagopus lagopus_ (Linn.) + +[79] The Alarm bird is probably the Short-eared Owl, _Asio flammeus_ +(Pontoppidan), a common summer inhabitant of the Barren Grounds. The +Cobadekoock is the Hawk Owl, which seldom goes north of the woods.--E. +A. P. + +[80] The exact locality here described does not appear to have been +visited by any white man since 1771, but Sir John Richardson visited the +Copper Mountains in 1821, and the following description by him will give +some idea of their character: + +"The Copper Mountains appear to form a range running S.E. and N.W. The +great mass of rock in the mountains seems to consist of felspar in +various conditions; sometimes in the form of felspar rock or claystone, +sometimes coloured by hornblende, and approaching to greenstone, but +most generally in the form of dark reddish-brown amygdaloid. The +amygdaloidal masses, contained in the amygdaloid, are either entirely +pistacite, or pistacite enclosing calc-spar. Scales of native copper are +very generally disseminated through this rock, through a species of trap +tuff which nearly resembled it, and also through a reddish sandstone on +which it appears to rest. When the felspar assumed the appearance of a +slaty claystone, which it did towards the base of the mountains on the +banks of the river, we observed no copper in it. The rough and in +general rounded and more elevated parts of the mountain, are composed of +the amygdaloid; but between the eminences there occur many narrow and +deep valleys, which are bounded by perpendicular mural precipices of +greenstone. It is in these valleys, amongst the loose soil, that the +Indians search for copper. Amongst the specimens we picked up in these +valleys, were plates of native copper; masses of pistacite containing +native copper; of trap rock with associated native copper, green +malachite, copper glance or variegated copper ore and iron-shot copper +green; and of greenish-grey prehnite in trap (the trap is felspar, +deeply coloured with hornblende), with disseminated native copper; the +copper, in some specimens, was crystallized in rhomboidal dodecahedrons. +We also found some large tabular fragments, evidently portions of a vein +consisting of prehnite, associated with calcareous spar, and native +copper. The Indians dig wherever they observe the prehnite lying on the +soil, experience having taught them that the largest pieces of copper +are found associated with it. We did not observe the vein in its +original repository, nor does it appear that the Indians have found it, +but judging from the specimens just mentioned, it most probably +traverses felspathose trap. We also picked up some fragments of a +greenish-grey coloured rock, apparently sandstone, with disseminated +variegated copper ore and copper glance; likewise rhomboidal fragments +of white calcareous spar, and some rock crystals. The Indians report +that they have found copper in every part of this range, which they have +examined for thirty or forty miles to the N.W., and that the Esquimaux +come hither to search for that metal. We afterwards found some +ice-chisels in possession of the latter people twelve or fourteen inches +long, and half-an-inch in diameter, formed of pure copper. + +"To the northward of the Copper Mountains, at the distance of ten miles, +in a direct line, a similar range of trap hills occurs, having, however, +less altitude. The intermediate country is uneven, but not hilly, and +consists of a deep sandy soil, which, when cut through by the rivulets, +discloses extensive beds of light-brownish red sandstone, which appears +to belong to the new red sandstone formation. The same rock having a +thin slaty structure, and dipping to the northward, forms perpendicular +walls to the river, whose bed lies a hundred and fifty feet below the +level of the plain. The eminences in the plain are well clothed with +grass, and free from the large loose stones so common on the Barren +Grounds, but the ridges of trap are nearly destitute of vegetation. + +"Beyond the last-mentioned trap range, which is about twenty miles from +the sea, the country becomes still more level, the same kind of +sandstone continuing as a subsoil. The plains nourish only a coarse +short grass, and the trees which had latterly dwindled to small clumps, +growing only on low points on the edge of the river under shelter of the +high bank, entirely disappear. A few ranges of trap hills intersect this +plain also, but they have much less elevation than those we passed +higher up the stream. + +"The river in its section of the plain, as far as Bloody Fall, presents +alternately cliffs of reddish sandstone, and red-coloured slaty +indurated clay or marl, and shelving white clay banks. At Bloody Fall, +the stream cuts through a thick bed of dark, purplish-red felspar rock, +similar to that observed at the Rocky Defile (page 527), and associated, +as at that place, with a rock composed principally of light red felspar +and quartz, but which is probably a species of red secondary granite. At +the Bloody Fall, the felspar rock is covered to the depth of six or +seven hundred feet with a bed of greyish white, and rather tenacious +clay, which being deeply intersected with ravines, forms steep hills. +Nearer the sea, the river is bounded by very steep cliffs of +yellowish-white sand; and on the sea-coast, the above-mentioned red +granite reappears on the west bank of the river, forming a rugged ridge +about two hundred and fifty feet high" ("First Journey," pp. 528-530). + +Sir John Franklin makes the following reference to the Copper Mountains, +which he visited in July 1821: + +"We rejoined our hunters at the foot of the Copper Mountains, and found +they had killed three musk-oxen. This circumstance determined us on +encamping to dry the meat, as there was wood at the spot. We availed +ourselves of this delay to visit the Copper Mountains in search of +specimens of the ore, agreeably to my instructions; and a party of +twenty-one persons, consisting of the officers, some of the voyagers, +and all the Indians, set off on that excursion. We travelled for nine +hours over a considerable space of ground, but found only a few small +pieces of native copper. The range we ascended was on the west side of +the river, extending W.N.W. and E.S.E. The mountains varied in height +from twelve to fifteen hundred feet. The uniformity of the mountains is +interrupted by narrow valleys, traversed by small streams. The best +specimens of metal we procured were among the stones in these valleys, +and it was in such situations that our guides desired us to search most +carefully. It would appear, that when the Indians see any sparry +substance projecting above the surface, they dig there; but they have no +other rule to direct them, and have never found the metal in its +original repository. Our guides reported that they had found copper in +large pieces in every part of this range, for two days' walk to the +north-west, and that the Esquimaux come hither to search for it. The +annual visits which the Copper Indians were accustomed to make to these +mountains, when most of their weapons and utensils were made of copper, +have been discontinued since they have been enabled to obtain a supply +of ice-chisels and other instruments of iron by the establishment of +trading posts near their hunting grounds. That none of those who +accompanied us had visited them for many years was evident, from their +ignorance of the spots most abundant in metal. + +"The impracticability of navigating the river upwards from the sea, and +the want of wood for forming an establishment, would prove insuperable +objections to rendering the collection of copper at this part worthy of +mercantile speculation" ("First Journey," p. 340-1). + +[AQ] This piece of Copper is now in the possession of the Hudson's Bay +Company. + +[AR] There is a strange tradition among those people, that the first +person who discovered those mines was a woman, and that she conducted +them to the place for several years; but as she was the only woman in +company, some of the men took such liberties with her as made her vow +revenge on them; and she is said to have been a great conjurer. +Accordingly when the men had loaded themselves with copper, and were +going to return, she refused to accompany them, and said she would sit +on the mine till she sunk into the ground, and that the copper should +sink with her. The next year, when the men went for more copper, they +found her sunk up to the waist, though still alive, and the quantity of +copper much decreased; and on their repeating their visit the year +following, she had quite disappeared, and all the principal part of the +mine with her; so that after that period nothing remained on the surface +but a few small pieces, and those were scattered at a considerable +distance from each other. Before that period they say the copper lay on +the surface in such large heaps, that the Indians had nothing to do but +turn it over, and pick such pieces as would best suit the different uses +for which they intended it.[81] + +[81] A slightly different version of this tradition is given by Sir John +Franklin, who heard it at Fort Chipewyan in 1820 from an old Chipewyan +Indian named "Rabbit's Head," a stepson of Matonabbee. See Franklin's +"First Journey," pp. 145-7. + +[AS] What is meant by Beaver in other kind of furrs, must be understood +as follows: For the easier trading with the Indians, as well as for the +more correctly keeping their accounts, the Hudson's Bay Company have +made a full-grown beaver-skin the standard by which they rate all other +furrs, according to their respective values. Thus in several species of +furrs, one skin is valued at the rate of four beaver-skins; some at +three, and others at two; whereas those of an inferior quality are rated +at one; and those of still less value considered so inferior to that of +a beaver, that from six to twenty of their skins are only valued as +equal to one beaver skin in the way of trade, and do not fetch +one-fourth of the price at the London market. In this manner the term +"Made Beaver" is to be understood. + +[AT] Since this Journal was written, the Northern Indians, by annually +visiting their Southern friends, the Athapuscow Indians, have contracted +the small-pox, which has carried off nine-tenths of them, and +particularly those people who composed the trade at Churchill Factory. +The few survivors follow the example of their Southern neighbours, and +all trade with the Canadians, who are settled in the heart of the +Athapuscow country: so that a very few years has proved my +short-sightedness, and that it would have been much more to the +advantage of the Company, as well as have prevented the depopulation of +the Northern Indian country, if they had still remained at war with the +Southern tribes, and never attempted to better their situation. At the +same time, it is impossible to say what increase of trade might not, in +time, have arisen from a constant and regular traffic with the different +tribes of Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians. But having been totally +neglected for several years, they have now sunk into their original +barbarism and extreme indigence; and a war has ensued between the two +tribes, for the sake of a few remnants of iron-work which was left among +them; and the Dog-ribbed Indians were so numerous, and so successful, as +to destroy almost the whole race of the Copper Indians. + +While I was writing this Note, I was informed by some Northern Indians, +that the few which remain of the Copper tribe have found their way to +one of the Canadian houses in the Athapuscow Indians' country, where +they get supplied with every thing at less, or about half the price they +were formerly obliged to give; so that the few surviving Northern +Indians, as well as the Hudson's Bay Company, have now lost every shadow +of any future trade from that quarter, unless the Company will establish +a settlement with the Athapuscow country, and undersell the +Canadians.[82] + +[82] In 1778 Peter Pond, a fur trader from Montreal, had built a trading +post on the east bank of Athabasca River, about thirty miles up-stream +from Athabasca Lake, and in 1786, after the formation of the North-West +Company, Laurent Leroux and Cuthbert Grant, two of the employees of this +Company, had descended Slave River to Great Slave Lake and had +established a trading post on its southern shore. The Copper Indians +traded at the latter post, while the Northern or Chipewyan Indians +resorted to the more southern and older post on the Athabasca River. +Among the members of this latter tribe, who had been accustomed to make +long pilgrimages to Churchill in order to procure implements and +utensils of various kinds in exchange for furs, but who afterwards found +that they could buy such goods as they needed more advantageously from +the traders on the Athabasca River, very much nearer home, was a man +known to those traders as "English Chief." This Indian accompanied Sir +Alexander Mackenzie, one of the partners of the North-West Company, and +one of those who would have been spoken of by Hearne as _Canadians_, on +his journey from Lake Athabasca to the Arctic Ocean in 1789. + +This note also throws an interesting light on the date on which the +journal was written, for the first outbreak of small-pox, which swept +off the Indians of Western Canada, occurred in 1781, and therefore the +journal itself was written before that date, while Hearne was living as +Governor at Fort Prince of Wales. The note would appear to have been +written about 1787, after the destruction of Fort Prince of Wales, and +while Hearne was living at Fort Churchill, five miles south of the old +fort, and before he finally returned to England. + +[AU] Mr. Moses Norton. + +[83] The party had thus reached Congecathawhachaga on the morning of the +seventh day after leaving Bloody Falls or the mouth of the Coppermine +River, the distance in a direct line being about one hundred and sixty +miles. If they travelled in a direct line they averaged twenty-five +miles a day, but the windings of the journey would add something to this +distance. + +[84] Contwoito Lake, described on page 152. + +[85] The exact position of this place, to which the women and children +had moved from the north shore of Cat or Clinton-Colden Lake, is not +certain, but it was evidently on some of the lakes or streams marked on +his map as lying between Cogead (Contwoito) and Point Lakes. + + + + +{189} CHAP. VII. + + Remarks from the Time the Women joined us till our Arrival at + the Athapuscow Lake. + + _Several of the Indians sick--Method used by the conjurers to + relieve one man, who recovers--Matonabbee and his crew proceed + to the South West--Most of the other Indians separate, and go + their respective ways--Pass by White Stone Lake--Many deer + killed merely for their skins--Remarks thereon, and on the deer, + respecting seasons and places--Arrive at Point Lake--One of the + Indian's wives being sick, is left behind to perish + above-ground--Weather very bad, but deer plenty--Stay some time + at Point Lake to dry meat, &c.--Winter set in--Superstitious + customs observed by my companions, after they had killed the + Esquimaux at Copper River--A violent gale of wind oversets my + tent and breaks my quadrant--Some Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians + join us--Indians propose to go to the Athapuscow Country to kill + moose--Leave Point Lake, and arrive at the wood's edge--Arrive + at Anawd Lake--Transactions there--Remarkable instance of a man + being cured of the palsey by the conjurers--Leave Anawd + Lake--Arrive at the great Athapuscow Lake._ + + +[Sidenote: 1771. August.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. August.] + +Several of the Indians being very ill, the conjurers, who are always the +doctors, and pretend to perform great cures, began to try their skill to +effect their recovery. Here it is necessary to remark, that they use no +medicine either for internal or external complaints, but perform all +their cures by charms. In ordinary cases, sucking the part affected, +blowing, and singing to it; {190} haughing, spitting, and at the same +time uttering a heap of unintelligible jargon, compose the whole process +of the cure. For some inward complaints; such as, griping in the +intestines, difficulty of making water, &c., it is very common to see +those jugglers blowing into the _anus_, or into the parts adjacent, +till their eyes are almost starting out of their heads: and this +operation is performed indifferently on all, without regard either to +age or sex. The accumulation of so large a quantity of wind is at times +apt to occasion some extraordinary emotions, which are not easily +suppressed by a sick person; and as there is no vent for it but by the +channel through which it was conveyed thither, it sometimes occasions an +odd scene between the doctor and his patient; which I once wantonly +called an engagement, but for which I was afterward exceedingly sorry, +as it highly offended several of the Indians; particularly the juggler +and the sick person, both of whom were men I much esteemed, and, except +in that moment of levity, it had ever been no less my inclination than +my interest to shew them every respect that my situation would admit. + +I have often admired the great pains these jugglers take to deceive +their credulous countrymen, while at the same time they are +indefatigably industrious and persevering in their efforts to relieve +them. Being naturally not very delicate, they frequently continue their +windy process so long, that I have more than once seen the doctor quit +his patient with his face and breast in a very disagreeable condition. +However {191} laughable this may appear to an European, custom makes it +very indecent, in their opinion, to turn any thing of the kind to +ridicule. + +When a friend for whom they have a particular regard is, as they +suppose, dangerously ill, beside the above methods, they have recourse +to another very extraordinary piece of superstition; which is no less +than that of pretending to swallow hatchets, ice-chissels, broad +bayonets, knives, and the like; out of a superstitious notion that +undertaking such desperate feats will have some influence in appeasing +death, and procure a respite for their patient. + +[Sidenote: 1771. August.] + +On such extraordinary occasions a conjuring-house is erected, by driving +the ends of four long small sticks, or poles, into the ground at right +angles, so as to form a square of four, five, six, or seven feet, as may +be required. The tops of the poles are tied together, and all is close +covered with a tent-cloth or other skin, exactly in the shape of a small +square tent, except that there is no vacancy left at the top to admit +the light. In the middle of this house, or tent, the patient is laid, +and is soon followed by the conjurer, or conjurers. Sometimes five or +six of them give their joint-assistance; but before they enter, they +strip themselves quite naked, and as soon as they get into the house, +the door being well closed, they kneel round the sick person or persons, +and begin to suck {192} and blow at the parts affected, and then in a +very short space of time sing and talk as if conversing with familiar +spirits, which they say appear to them in the shape of different beasts +and birds of prey. When they have had sufficient conference with those +necessary agents, or shadows, as they term them, they ask for the +hatchet, bayonet, or the like, which is always prepared by another +person, with a long string fastened to it by the haft, for the +convenience of hauling it up again after they have swallowed it; for +they very wisely admit this to be a very necessary precaution, as hard +and compact bodies, such as iron and steel, would be very difficult to +digest, even by the men who are enabled to swallow them. Besides, as +those tools are in themselves very useful, and not always to be +procured, it would be very ungenerous in the conjurers to digest them, +when it is known that barely swallowing them and hauling them up again +is fully sufficient to answer every purpose that is expected from them. + +[Sidenote: 1771. August. 6th.] + +At the time when the forty and odd tents of Indians joined us, one man +was so dangerously ill, that it was thought necessary the conjurers +should use some of those wonderful experiments for his recovery; one of +them therefore immediately consented to swallow a broad bayonet. +Accordingly, a conjuring-house was erected in the manner above +described, into which the patient was conveyed, and he was soon +followed by the conjurer, who, after a long preparatory discourse, and +the necessary {193} conference with his familiar spirits, or shadows, as +they call them, advanced to the door and asked for the bayonet, which +was then ready prepared, by having a string fastened to it, and a short +piece of wood tied to the other end of the string, to prevent him from +swallowing it. I could not help observing that the length of the bit of +wood was not more than the breadth of the bayonet; however, as it +answered the intended purpose, it did equally well as if it had been as +long as a handspike. + +Though I am not so credulous as to believe that the conjurer absolutely +swallowed the bayonet, yet I must acknowledge that in the twinkling of +an eye he conveyed it to--God knows where; and the small piece of wood, +or one exactly like it, was confined close to his teeth. He then paraded +backward and forward before the conjuring-house for a short time, when +he feigned to be greatly disordered in his stomach and bowels; and, +after making many wry faces, and groaning most hideously, he put his +body into several distorted attitudes, very suitable to the occasion. He +then returned to the door of the conjuring-house, and after making many +strong efforts to vomit, by the help of the string he at length, and +after tugging at it some time, produced the bayonet, which apparently he +hauled out of his mouth, to the no small surprize of all present. He +then looked round with an air of exultation, and strutted into the +conjuring-house, where he renewed his incantations, and continued them +without intermission twenty-four hours. {194} Though I was not close to +his elbow when he performed the above feat, yet I thought myself near +enough (and I can assure my readers I was all attention) to have +detected him. Indeed I must confess that it appeared to me to be a very +nice piece of deception, especially as it was performed by a man quite +naked. + +[Sidenote: 1771. August.] + +Not long after this slight-of-hand work was over, some of the Indians +asked me what I thought of it; to which I answered, that I was too far +off to see it so plain as I could wish; which indeed was no more than +the strictest truth, because I was not near enough to detect the +deception. The sick man, however, soon recovered; and in a few days +afterwards we left that place and proceeded to the South West. + +[Sidenote: 9th.] + +On the ninth of August, we once more pursued our journey, and continued +our course in the South West quarter, generally walking about seven or +eight miles a day. All the Indians, however, who had been in our +company, except twelve tents, struck off different ways. As to myself, +having had several days rest, my feet were completely healed, though the +skin remained very tender for some time. + +[Sidenote: 19th-25th.] + +From the nineteenth to the twenty-fifth, we walked by the side of +Thaye-chuck-gyed Whoie,[86] or Large Whitestone Lake, which is about +forty miles long from the North {195} East to the South West, but of +very unequal breadth. A river from the North West side of this lake is +said to run in a serpentine manner a long way to the Westward; and then +tending to the Northward, composes the main branch of the Copper-mine +River, as has been already mentioned; which may or may not be true. It +is certain, however, that there are many rivulets which empty themselves +into this lake from the South East; but as they are all small streams, +they may probably be no more than what is sufficient to supply the +constant decrease occasioned by the exhalations, which, during the short +Summer, so high a Northern latitude always affords. + +Deer were very plentiful the whole way; the Indians killed great numbers +of them daily, merely for the sake of their skins; and at this time of +the year their pelts are in good season, and the hair of a proper length +for clothing. + +[Sidenote: 1771. August.] + +The great destruction which is made of the deer in those parts at this +season of the year only, is almost incredible; and as they are never +known to have more than one young one at a time, it is wonderful they do +not become scarce; but so far from being the case, that the oldest +Northern Indian in all their tribe will affirm that the deer are as +plentiful now as they ever have been; and though they are remarkably +scarce some years near Churchill River, yet it is said, and with great +probability of truth, that they are {196} more plentiful in other parts +of the country than they were formerly. The scarcity or abundance of +these animals in different places at the same season is caused, in a +great measure, by the winds which prevail for some time before; for the +deer are supposed by the natives to walk always in the direction from +which the wind blows, except when they migrate from East to West, or +from West to East, in search of the opposite sex, for the purpose of +propagating their species. + +It requires the prime part of the skins of from eight to ten deer to +make a complete suit of warm clothing for a grown person during the +Winter; all of which should, if possible, be killed in the month of +August, or early in September; for after that time the hair is too long, +and at the same time so loose in the pelt, that it will drop off with +the slightest injury. + +Beside these skins, which must be in the hair, each person requires +several others to be dressed into leather, for stockings and shoes, and +light Summer clothing; several more are also wanted in a parchment +state, to make _clewla_ as they call it, or thongs to make netting for +their snow-shoes, snares for deer, sewing for their sledges, and, in +fact, for every other use where strings or lines of any kind are +required: so that each person, on an average, expends, in the course of +a year, upwards of twenty deer skins in {197} clothing and other +domestic uses, exclusive of tent cloths, bags, and many other things +which it is impossible to remember, and unnecessary to enumerate. + +[Sidenote: 1771. August.] + +All skins for the above-mentioned purposes are, if possible, procured +between the beginning of August and the middle of October; for when the +rutting season is over, and the Winter sets in, the deer-skins are not +only very thin, but in general full of worms and warbles[87]; which +render them of little use, unless it be to cut into fine thongs, of +which they make fishing-nets, and nets for the heels and toes of their +snow-shoes. Indeed the chief use that is made of them in Winter is for +the purpose of food; and really when the hair is properly taken off, and +all the warbles are squeezed out, if they are well-boiled, they are far +from being disagreeable. The Indians, however, never could persuade me +to eat the warbles, of which some of them are remarkably fond, +particularly the children. They are always eaten raw and alive, out of +the skin; and are said, by those who like them, to be as fine as +gooseberries. But the very idea of eating such things, exclusive of +their appearance, (many of them being as large as the first joint of the +little finger,) was quite sufficient to give me an unalterable disgust +to such a repast; and when I acknowledge that the warbles out of the +deers backs, and the domestic lice, were the only two things I ever saw +my {198} companions eat, of which I could not, or did not, partake, I +trust I shall not be reckoned over-delicate in my appetite. + +[Sidenote: 1771. August.] + +The month of October is the rutting season with the deer in those parts, +and after the time of their courtship is over, the bucks separate from +the does; the former proceed to the Westward, to take shelter in the +woods during the Winter, and the latter keep out in the barren ground +the whole year. This, though a general rule, is not without some +exceptions; for I have frequently seen many does in the woods, though +they bore no proportion to the number of bucks. This rule, therefore, +only stands good respecting the deer to the North of Churchill River; +for the deer to the Southward live promiscuously among the woods, as +well as in the plains, and along the banks of rivers, lakes, &c. the +whole year. + +The old buck's horns are very large, with many branches, and always drop +off in the month of November, which is about the time they begin to +approach the woods. This is undoubtedly wisely ordered by Providence, +the better to enable them to escape from their enemies through the +woods; otherwise they would become an easy prey to wolves and other +beasts, and be liable to get entangled among the trees, even in ranging +about in search of food. The same opinion may probably be admitted of +the Southern deer, which always reside among {199} the woods; but the +Northern deer, though by far the smallest in this country, have much the +largest horns, and the branches are so long, and at the same time spread +so wide, as to make them more liable to be entangled among the +under-woods, than any other species of deer that I have noticed. The +young bucks in those parts do not shed their horns so soon as the old +ones: I have frequently seen them killed at or near Christmas, and could +discover no appearance of their horns being loose. The does do not shed +their horns till the Summer; so that when the buck's horns are ready to +drop off, the horns of the does are all hairy, and scarcely come to +their full growth. + +[Sidenote: 1771. August.] + +The deer in those parts are generally in motion from East to West, or +from West to East, according to the season, or the prevailing winds; and +that is the principal reason why the Northern Indians are always +shifting their station. From November till May, the bucks continue to +the Westward, among the woods, when their horns begin to sprout; after +which they proceed on to the Eastward, to the barren grounds; and the +does that have been on the barren ground all the Winter, are taught by +instinct to advance to the Westward to meet them, in order to propagate +their species. Immediately after the rutting season is over, they +separate, as hath been mentioned above. The old vulgar saying, so +generally received among the lower class of people in England, +concerning the bucks shedding their yards, or more properly the glands +of the {200} _penis_, yearly, whether it be true in England or not, is +certainly not true in any of the countries bordering on Hudson's Bay. A +long residence among the Indians has enabled me to confirm this +assertion with great confidence, as I have seen deer killed every day +throughout the year; and when I have mentioned this circumstance to the +Indians, either Northern or Southern, they always assured me that they +never observed any such symptoms. With equal truth I can assert, and +that from ocular demonstration, that the animal which is called the +Alpine Hare in Hudson's Bay, actually undergoes something similar to +that which is vulgarly ascribed to the English deer. I have seen and +handled several of them, who had been killed just after they had coupled +in the Spring, with the _penises_ hanging out, dried up, and shrivelled, +like the navel-string of young animals; and on examination I always +found a passage through them for the urine to pass. I have thought +proper to give this remark a place in my Journal, because, in all +probability, it is not generally known, even to those gentlemen who have +made natural history their chief study; and if their researches are of +any real utility to mankind, it is surely to be regretted that +Providence should have placed the greatest part of them too remote from +want to be obliged to travel for ocular proofs of what they assert in +their publications; they are therefore wisely content to stay at home, +and enjoy the blessings with which they are endowed, resting satisfied +to collect such information for their own amusement, and the +gratification of the public, as those {201} who are necessitated to be +travellers are able or willing to give them. It is true, and I am sorry +it is so, that I come under the latter description; but hope I have not, +or shall not, in the course of this Journal, advance any thing that will +not stand the test of experiment, and the skill of the most competent +judges. + +[Sidenote: 1771. September.] + +After leaving White Stone Lake, we continued our course in the South +West quarter, seldom walking more than twelve miles a day, and +frequently not half that distance. + +[Sidenote: 3d.] + +On the third of September, we arrived at a small river belonging to +Point Lake, but the weather at this time proved so boisterous, and there +was so much rain, snow, and frost, alternately, that we were obliged to +wait several days before we could cross it in our canoes; and the water +was too deep, and the current too rapid, to attempt fording it. During +this interruption, however, our time was not entirely lost, as deer were +so plentiful that the Indians killed numbers of them, as well for the +sake of their skins, as for their flesh, which was at present in +excellent order, and the skins in proper season for the sundry uses for +which they are destined. + +[Sidenote: 7th.] + +[Sidenote: 8th.] + +In the afternoon of the seventh, the weather became fine and moderate, +when we all were ferried across the river; and the next morning shaped +our course to the {202} South West, by the side of Point Lake. After +three days journey, which only consisted of about eighteen miles, we +came to a few small scrubby woods,[88] which were the first that we had +seen from the twenty-fifth of May, except those we had perceived at the +Copper-mine River. + +[Sidenote: 1771. September.] + +One of the Indian's wives, who for some time had been in a consumption, +had for a few days past become so weak as to be incapable of travelling, +which, among those people, is the most deplorable state to which a human +being can possibly be brought. Whether she had been given over by the +doctors, or that it was for want of friends among them, I cannot tell, +but certain it is, that no expedients were taken for her recovery; so +that, without much ceremony, she was left unassisted, to perish +above-ground. + +Though this was the first instance of the kind I had seen, it is the +common, and indeed the constant practice of those Indians; for when a +grown person is so ill, especially in the Summer, as not to be able to +walk, and too heavy to be carried, they say it is better to leave one +who is past recovery, than for the whole family to sit down by them and +starve to death; well knowing that they cannot be of any service to the +afflicted. On those occasions, therefore, the friends or relations of +the sick generally leave them some victuals and water; and, if the +situation of the place will afford it, a little firing. When {203} those +articles are provided, the person to be left is acquainted with the road +which the others intend to go; and then, after covering them well up +with deer skins, &c. they take their leave, and walk away crying. + +Sometimes persons thus left, recover; and come up with their friends, or +wander about till they meet with other Indians, whom they accompany till +they again join their relations. Instances of this kind are seldom +known. The poor woman above mentioned, however, came up with us three +several times, after having been left in the manner described. At +length, poor creature! she dropt behind, and no one attempted to go back +in search of her. + +A custom apparently so unnatural is perhaps not to be found among any +other of the human race: if properly considered, however, it may with +justice be ascribed to necessity and self-preservation, rather than to +the want of humanity and social feeling, which ought to be the +characteristic of men, as the noblest part of the creation. Necessity, +added to national custom, contributes principally to make scenes of this +kind less shocking to those people, than they must appear to the more +civilized part of mankind. + +[Sidenote: 1771. September.] + +During the early part of September, the weather was in general cold with +much sleet and snow; which seemed to {204} promise that the Winter would +set in early. Deer at this time being very plentiful, and the few woods +we met with affording tent-poles and firing, the Indians proposed to +remain where we were some time, in order to dress skins, and provide our +Winter clothing; also to make snow-shoes and temporary sledges, as well +as to prepare a large quantity of dried meat and fat to carry with us; +for by the accounts of the Indians, they have always experienced a great +scarcity of deer, and every other kind of game, in the direction they +proposed we should go when we left Point Lake. + +[Sidenote: 28th.] + +[Sidenote: 30th.] + +Toward the middle of the month, the weather became quite mild and open, +and continued so till the end of it; but there was so much constant and +incessant rain, that it rotted most of our tents. On the twenty-eighth, +however, the wind settled in the North West quarter, when the weather +grew so cold, that by the thirtieth all the ponds, lakes, and other +standing waters, were frozen over so hard that we were enabled to cross +them on the ice without danger. + +Among the various superstitious customs of those people, it is worth +remarking, and ought to have been mentioned in its proper place, that +immediately after my companions had killed the Esquimaux at the Copper +River, they considered themselves in a state of uncleanness, which +induced them to practise some very curious and unusual ceremonies. {205} +In the first place, all who were absolutely concerned in the murder were +prohibited from cooking any kind of victuals, either for themselves or +others. As luckily there were two in company who had not shed blood, +they were employed always as cooks till we joined the women. This +circumstance was exceedingly favourable on my side; for had there been +no persons of the above description in company, that task, I was told, +would have fallen on me; which would have been no less fatiguing and +troublesome, than humiliating and vexatious. + +[Sidenote: 1771. September.] + +When the victuals were cooked, all the murderers took a kind of red +earth, or oker, and painted all the space between the nose and chin, as +well as the greater part of their cheeks, almost to the ears, before +they would taste a bit, and would not drink out of any other dish, or +smoke out of any other pipe, but their own; and none of the others +seemed willing to drink or smoke out of theirs. + +We had no sooner joined the women, at our return from the expedition, +than there seemed to be an universal spirit of emulation among them, +vying who should first make a suit of ornaments for their husbands, +which consisted of bracelets for the wrists, and a band for the +forehead, composed of porcupine quills and moose-hair, curiously wrought +on leather. + +The custom of painting the mouth and part of the cheeks before each +meal, and drinking and smoking out {206} of their own utensils, was +strictly and invariably observed, till the Winter began to set in; and +during the whole of that time they would never kiss any of their wives +or children. They refrained also from eating many parts of the deer and +other animals, particularly the head, entrails, and blood; and during +their uncleanness, their victuals were never sodden in water, but dried +in the sun, eaten quite raw, or broiled, when a fire fit for the purpose +could be procured. + +When the time arrived that was to put an end to these ceremonies, the +men, without a female being present, made a fire at some distance from +the tents, into which they threw all their ornaments, pipe-stems, and +dishes, which were soon consumed to ashes; after which a feast was +prepared, consisting of such articles as they had long been prohibited +from eating; and when all was over, each man was at liberty to eat, +drink, and smoke as he pleased; and also to kiss his wives and children +at discretion, which they seemed to do with more raptures than I had +ever known them do it either before or since. + +[Sidenote: October. 6th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. October.] + +October came in very roughly, attended with heavy falls of snow, and +much drift. On the sixth at night, a heavy gale of wind from the North +West put us in great disorder; for though the few woods we passed had +furnished us with tent-poles and fewel, yet they did not afford us the +least shelter whatever. The wind blew with such {207} violence, that in +spite of all our endeavours, it overset several of the tents, and mine, +among the rest, shared the disaster, which I cannot sufficiently lament, +as the but-ends of the weather tent-poles fell on the quadrant,[89] and +though it was in a strong wainscot case, two of the bubbles, the index, +and several other parts were broken, which rendered it entirely useless. +This being the case, I did not think it worth carriage, but broke it to +pieces, and gave the brass-work to the Indians, who cut it into small +lumps, and made use of it instead of ball. + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +On the twenty-third of October, several Copper and a few Dog-ribbed +Indians came to our tents laden with furrs, which they sold to some of +my crew for such iron-work as they had to give in exchange. This visit, +I afterwards found, was by appointment of the Copper Indians whom we had +seen at Congecathawhachaga, and who, in their way to us, had met the +Dog-ribbed Indians, who were also glad of so favourable an opportunity +of purchasing some of those valuable articles, though at a very +extravagant price: for one of the Indians in my company, though not +properly of my party, got no less than forty beaver skins, and sixty +martins, for one piece of iron which he had stole when he was last at +the Fort.[AV] + +[Sidenote: 1771. October.] + +{208} One of those strangers had about forty beaver skins, with which he +intended to pay Matonabbee an old debt; but one of the other Indians +seized the whole, notwithstanding he knew it to be in fact Matonabbee's +property. This treatment, together with many other insults, which he had +received during my abode with him, made him renew his old resolution of +leaving his own country, and going to reside with the Athapuscow +Indians. + +[Sidenote: 1771. October.] + +As the most interesting part of my journey was now over, I did not think +it necessary to interfere in his private affairs; and therefore did not +endeavour to influence him either one way or the other: out of +complaisance, therefore, rather than any thing else, I told him, that I +thought such behaviour very uncourteous, especially in a man of his rank +and dignity. As to the reason of his determination, I did not think it +worth while to enquire into it; but, by his discourse with the other +Indians, I soon understood that they all intended to make an excursion +into the country of the Athapuscow Indians, in order to kill moose and +beaver. The former of those animals are never found in the Northern +Indian territories; and the latter are so scarce in those Northern +parts, that during the whole Winter of one thousand seven hundred and +seventy, {209} I did not see more than two beaver houses. Martins are +also scarce in those parts; for during the above period, I do not think +that more than six or eight were killed by all the Indians in my +company. This exceedingly small number, among so many people, may with +great truth be attributed to the indolence of the Indians, and the +wandering life which they lead, rather than to the great scarcity of the +martins. It is true, that our moving so frequently from place to place, +did at times make it not an object worth while to build traps; but had +they taken the advantage of all favourable opportunities, and been +possessed of half the industry of the Company's servants in the Bay, +they might with great ease have caught as many hundreds, if not some +thousands; and when we consider the extent of ground which we walked +over in that time, such a number would not have been any proof of the +martins being very plentiful. + +Except a few martins; wolves, quiquehatches, foxes, and otters, are the +chief furrs to be met with in those parts, and few of the Northern +Indians chuse to kill either the wolf or the quiquehatch, under a notion +that they are something more than common animals. Indeed, I have known +some of them so bigotted to this opinion, that having by chance killed a +quiquehatch by a gun which had been set for a fox, they have left it +where it was killed, and would not take off its skin. Notwithstanding +this {210} silly notion, which is too frequently to be observed among +those people, it generally happens that there are some in every gang who +are less scrupulous, so that none of those furrs are ever left to rot; +and even those who make a point of not killing the animals themselves, +are ready to receive their skins from other Indians, and carry them to +the Fort for trade. + +[Sidenote: 30th.] + +[Sidenote: November. 1st.] + +By the thirtieth of October, all our clothing, snowshoes, and temporary +sledges, being completed, we once more began to prepare for moving, and +on the following day set out, and walked five or six miles to the +Southward. + +[Sidenote: 5th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. November.] + +From the first to the fifth of November we walked on the ice of a large +lake, which, though very considerable both in length and breadth, is not +distinguished by any general name; on which account I gave it the name +of No Name Lake.[90] On the South side of this lake we found some wood, +which was very acceptable, being the first that we had seen since we +left Point Lake. + +No Name Lake is about fifty miles long from North to South, and, +according to the account of the Indians, is thirty-five miles wide from +East to West. It is said to abound with fine fish; but the weather at +the time we crossed it was so cold, as to render it impossible to sit on +the ice any {211} length of time to angle. A few exceedingly fine trout, +and some very large pike, however, were caught by my companions. + +When we arrived on the South side of the above lake, we shaped our +course to the South West; and though the weather was in general very +cold, yet as we every night found tufts of wood, in which we could pitch +our tents, we were enabled to make a better defence against the weather, +than we had had it in our power to do for some time past. + +[Sidenote: 10th.] + +On the tenth of November, we arrived at the edge of the main woods; at +which time the Indians began to make proper sledges, some snow-shoes, +&c. after which we proceeded again to the South West. But deer and all +other kinds of game were so scarce the whole way, that, except a few +partridges, nothing was killed by any in company: we had, nevertheless, +plenty of the provision which had been prepared at Point Lake. + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. November.] + +On the twentieth of the same month, we arrived at Anaw'd Whoie,[91] or +the Indian Lake. In our way we crossed part of Methy Lake,[92] and +walked near eighty miles on a small river belonging to it, which empties +itself into the Great Athapuscow[93] Lake.[AW] While we were walking +{212} on the above little river, the Indians set fishing-nets under the +ice every night; but their labour was attended with so little success, +that all they caught served only as a delicacy, or to make a little +change in our diet; for the quantity was too trifling to occasion any +considerable saving of our other provisions. + +Anaw'd Lake, though so small as not to exceed twenty miles wide in the +broadest part, is celebrated by the natives for abounding with plenty of +fish during the Winter; accordingly the Indians set all their nets, +which were not a few, and met with such success, that in about ten days +the roes only were as much as all the women could haul after them. + +Tittimeg and barble, with a few small pike, were the only fish caught at +this part; the roes of which, particularly those of the tittimeg, are +more esteemed by the Northern Indians, to take with them on a journey, +than the fish itself; for about two pounds weight of these roes, when +well bruised, will make near four gallons of broth, as thick as common +burgoe; and if properly managed, will be as white as rice, which makes +it very pleasing to the eye, and no less agreeable to the palate. + +[Sidenote: 1771. November.] + +The land round this lake is very hilly, though not mountainous, and +chiefly consists of rocks and loose stones; there must, however, be a +small portion of soil {213} on the surface, as it is in most parts well +clothed with tall poplars, pines, fir, and birch; particularly in the +vallies, where the poplars, pine, and birch seem to thrive best; but the +firs were as large, and in as flourishing a state, on the very summit of +the hills, as in any other part. + +Rabbits[94] were here so plentiful, particularly on the South and South +East side of the lake, that several of the Indians caught twenty or +thirty in a night with snares; and the wood-partridges[95] were so +numerous in the fir trees, and so tame, that I have known an Indian kill +near twenty of them in a day with his bow and arrows. The Northern +Indians call this species of the partridge Day; and though their flesh +is generally very black and bitter, occasioned by their feeding on the +brush of the fir tree, yet they make a variety, or change of diet, and +are thought exceedingly good, particularly by the natives, who, though +capable of living so hard, and at times eating very ungrateful food, are +nevertheless as fond of variety as any people whom I ever saw; and will +go as great lengths, according to their circumstances, to gratify their +palates, as the greatest epicure in England. As a proof of this +assertion, I have frequently known Matonabbee, and others who could +afford it, for the sake of variety only, send some of their young men to +kill a few partridges at the expence of more ammunition than would have +killed deer sufficient to have maintained their families many days; +whereas the partridges were always eaten up at one meal: and to {214} +heighten the luxury on these occasions, the partridges are boiled in a +kettle of sheer fat, which it must be allowed renders them beyond all +description finer flavoured than when boiled in water or common broth. I +have also eat deer-skins boiled in fat, which were exceedingly good. + +[Sidenote: 1771. November.] + +As during our stay at Anaw'd Lake several of the Indians were sickly, +the doctors undertook to administer relief; particularly to one man, who +had been hauled on a sledge by his brother for two months. His disorder +was the dead palsey, which affected one side, from the crown of his head +to the sole of his foot. Besides this dreadful disorder, he had some +inward complaints, with a total loss of appetite; so that he was reduced +to a mere skeleton, and so weak as to be scarcely capable of speaking. +In this deplorable condition, he was laid in the center of a large +conjuring-house, made much after the manner as that which has been +already described. And that nothing might be wanting toward his +recovery, the same man who deceived me in swallowing a bayonet in the +Summer, now offered to swallow a large piece of board, about the size of +a barrel-stave, in order to effect his recovery. The piece of board was +prepared by another man, and painted according to the direction of the +juggler, with a rude representation of some beast of prey on one side, +and on the reverse was painted, according to their rude method, a +resemblance of the sky. + +{215} Without entering into a long detail of the preparations for this +feat, I shall at once proceed to observe, that after the conjurer had +held the necessary conference with his invisible spirits, or shadows, he +asked if I was present; for he had heard of my saying that I did not see +him swallow the bayonet fair; and on being answered in the affirmative, +he desired me to come nearer; on which the mob made a lane for me to +pass, and I advanced close to him, and found him standing at the +conjuring-house door as naked as he was born. + +[Sidenote: 1771. November.] + +When the piece of board was delivered to him, he proposed at first only +to shove one-third of it down his throat, and then walk round the +company afterward to shove down another third; and so proceed till he +had swallowed the whole, except a small piece of the end, which was left +behind to haul it up again. When he put it to his mouth it apparently +slipped down his throat like lightning, and only left about three inches +sticking without his lips; after walking backwards and forwards three +times, he hauled it up again, and ran into the conjuring-house with +great precipitation. This he did to all appearance with great ease and +composure; and notwithstanding I was all attention on the occasion, I +could not detect the deceit; and as to the reality of its being a piece +of wood that he pretended to swallow, there is not the least reason to +doubt of it, for I had it in my hand, both before and immediately after +the ceremony. + +{216} To prevent a variety of opinions on this occasion, and to lessen +the apparent magnitude of the miracle, as well as to give some colour to +my scepticism, which might otherwise perhaps appear ridiculous, it is +necessary to observe, that this feat was performed in a dark and +excessively cold night; and although there was a large fire at some +distance, which reflected a good light, yet there was great room for +collusion: for though the conjurer himself was quite naked, there were +several of his fraternity well-clothed, who attended him very close +during the time of his attempting to swallow the board, as well as at +the time of his hauling it up again. + +For these reasons it is necessary also to observe, that on the day +preceding the performance of this piece of deception, in one of my +hunting excursions, I accidentally came across the conjurer as he was +sitting under a bush, several miles from the tents, where he was busily +employed shaping a piece of wood exactly like that part which stuck out +of his mouth after he had pretended to swallow the remainder of the +piece. The shape of the piece which I saw him making was this, +[Illustration]; which exactly resembled the forked end of the main +piece, the shape of which was this, [Illustration]. So that when his +attendants had concealed the main piece, it was easy for him to stick +the small point into his mouth, as it was reduced at the small end to a +proper size for the purpose. + +[Sidenote: 1771. November.] + +{217} Similar proofs may easily be urged against his swallowing the +bayonet in the Summer, as no person less ignorant than themselves can +possibly place any belief in the reality of those feats; yet on the +whole, they must be allowed a considerable share of dexterity in the +performance of those tricks, and a wonderful deal of perseverance in +what they do for the relief of those whom they undertake to cure. + +Not long after the above performance had taken place, some of the +Indians began to ask me what I thought of it. As I could not have any +plea for saying that I was far off, and at the same time not caring to +affront them by hinting my suspicions of the deceit, I was some time at +a loss for an answer: I urged, however, the impossibility of a man's +swallowing a piece of wood, that was not only much longer than his whole +back, but nearly twice as broad as he could extend his mouth. On which +some of them laughed at my ignorance, as they were pleased to call it; +and said, that the spirits in waiting swallowed, or otherwise concealed, +the stick, and only left the forked end apparently sticking out of the +conjurer's mouth. My guide, Matonabbee, with all his other good sense, +was so bigotted to the reality of those performances, that he assured me +in the strongest terms, he had seen a man, who was then in company, +swallow a child's cradle, with as much ease as he could fold up a piece +of paper, and put it into his mouth; and that when he hauled it up +again, not the {218} mark of a tooth, or of any violence, was to be +discovered about it. + +[Sidenote: 1771. November.] + +This story so far exceeded the feats which I had seen with the bayonet +and board, that, for the sake of keeping up the farce, I began to be +very inquisitive about the spirits which appear to them on those +occasions, and their form; when I was told that they appeared in various +shapes, for almost every conjurer had his peculiar attendant; but that +the spirit which attended the man who pretended to swallow the piece of +wood, they said, generally appeared to him in the shape of a cloud. This +I thought very apropos to the present occasion; and I must confess that +I never had so thick a cloud thrown before my eyes before or since; and +had it not been by accident, that I saw him make a counterpart to the +piece of wood said to be swallowed, I should have been still at a loss +how to account for so extraordinary a piece of deception, performed by a +man who was entirely naked. + +As soon as our conjurer had executed the above feat, and entered the +conjuring-house, as already mentioned, five other men and an old woman, +all of whom were great professors of that art, stripped themselves quite +naked and followed him, when they soon began to suck, blow, sing, and +dance, round the poor paralytic; and continued so to do for three days +and four nights, without taking the least rest or refreshment, not even +so much as a drop of water. {219} When these poor deluding and deluded +people came out of the conjuring-house, their mouths were so parched +with thirst as to be quite black, and their throats so sore, that they +were scarcely able to articulate a single word, except those that stand +for _yes_ and _no_ in their language. + +[Sidenote: 1771. November.] + +After so long an abstinence they were very careful not to eat or drink +too much at one time, particularly for the first day; and indeed some of +them, to appearance, were almost as bad as the poor man they had been +endeavouring to relieve. But great part of this was feigned; for they +lay on their backs with their eyes fixed, as if in the agonies of death, +and were treated like young children; one person sat constantly by them, +moistening their mouths with fat, and now and then giving them a drop of +water. At other times a small bit of meat was put into their mouths, or +a pipe held for them to smoke. This farce only lasted for the first day; +after which they seemed to be perfectly well, except the hoarseness, +which continued for a considerable time afterwards. And it is truly +wonderful, though the strictest truth, that when the poor sick man was +taken from the conjuring-house, he had not only recovered his appetite +to an amazing degree, but was able to move all the fingers and toes of +the side that had been so long dead. In three weeks he recovered so far +as to be capable of walking, and at the end of six weeks went a hunting +for his family. He was one of the persons[AX] {220} particularly engaged +to provide for me during my journey; and after his recovery from this +dreadful disorder, accompanied me back to Prince of Wales's Fort in June +one thousand seven hundred and seventy-two; and since that time he has +frequently visited the Factory, though he never had a healthy look +afterwards, and at times seemed troubled with a nervous complaint. It +may be added, that he had been formerly of a remarkable lively +disposition; but after his last illness he always appeared thoughtful, +sometimes gloomy, and, in fact, the disorder seemed to have changed his +whole nature; for before that dreadful paralytic stroke, he was +distinguished for his good-nature and benevolent disposition; was +entirely free from every appearance of avarice; and the whole of his +wishes seemed confined within the narrow limits of possessing as many +goods as were absolutely necessary, with his own industry, to enable him +to support his family from season to season; but after this event, he +was the most fractious, quarrelsome, discontented, and covetous wretch +alive. + +Though the ordinary trick of these conjurers may be easily detected, and +justly exploded, being no more than the tricks of common jugglers, yet +the apparent good effect of their labours on the sick and diseased is +not so easily accounted for. Perhaps the implicit confidence placed in +them by the sick may, at times, leave the mind so perfectly at rest, as +to cause the disorder to take a favourable turn; and a few successful +cases are quite sufficient to establish the doctor's character and +reputation: {221} But how this consideration could operate in the case I +have just mentioned I am at a loss to say; such, however, was the fact, +and I leave it to be accounted for by others. + +[Illustration: A WINTER VIEW IN THE ATHAPUSCOW LAKE +By Samuel Hearne, 1771] + +[Sidenote: 1771. November.] + +When these jugglers take a dislike to, and threaten a secret revenge on +any person, it often proves fatal to that person; as, from a firm belief +that the conjurer has power over his life, he permits the very thoughts +of it to prey on his spirits, till by degrees it brings on a disorder +which puts an end to his existence:[AY] and sometimes a threat of this +{222} kind causes the death of a whole family; and that without any +blood being shed, or the least apparent molestation being offered to any +of the parties. + +[Sidenote: December. 1st.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +Having dried as many fish and fish-roes as we could conveniently take +with us, we once more packed up our stores, and, on the first day of +December, set out, and continued our course to the South West, leaving +Anaw'd Lake on the South West. Several of the Indians being out of +order, we made but short days journies. + +From the first to the thirteenth, we walked along a course of small +lakes, joined to each other by small rivers, or creeks, that have +communication with Anaw'd Lake. + +In our way we caught daily a few fish by angling, and saw many beaver +houses; but these were generally in so difficult a situation, and had so +many stones in the composition of them, that the Indians killed but few, +and that at a great expence of labour and tools. + +[Sidenote: 13th.] + +On the thirteenth, one of the Indians killed two deer, which were the +first that we had seen since the twentieth {223} of October. So that +during a period of near two months, we had lived on the dried meat that +we had prepared at Point Lake, and a few fish; of which the latter was +not very considerable in quantity, except what was caught at Anaw'd +Lake. It is true, we also caught a few rabbits, and at times the +wood-partridges were so plentiful, that the Indians killed considerable +numbers of them with their bows and arrows; but the number of mouths was +so great, that all which was caught from our leaving Point Lake, though +if enumerated, they might appear very considerable, would not have +afforded us all a bare subsistence; for though I and some others +experienced no real want, yet there were many in our company who could +scarcely be said to live, and would not have existed at all, had it not +been for the dry meat we had with us. + +[Sidenote: 24th.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +When we left the above-mentioned lakes we shaped a course more to the +Southward, and on the twenty-fourth, arrived at the North side of the +great Athapuscow Lake.[96] In our way we saw many Indian deer,[97] and +beaver were very plentiful, many of which the Indians killed; but the +days were so short, that the Sun only took a circuit of a few points of +the compass above the horizon, and did not, at its greatest altitude, +rise half-way up the trees. The brilliancy of the _Aurora Borealis_, +however, and of the Stars, even without the assistance of the Moon, made +some amends for that deficiency; for it was frequently so light all +night, that I could see to read a very small print. {224} The Indians +make no difference between night and day when they are hunting of +beaver; but those _nocturnal_ lights are always found insufficient for +the purpose of hunting deer or moose. + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. P. Tyrrell, July 30, 1893._ +HERD OF CARIBOU ON THE BANKS OF DUBAWNT RIVER] + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. P. Tyrrell, July 31, 1893._ +DRYING CARIBOU MEAT] + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +I do not remember to have met with any travellers into high Northern +latitudes, who remarked their having heard the Northern Lights make any +noise in the air as they vary their colours or position; which may +probably be owing to the want of perfect silence at the time they made +their observations on those meteors. I can positively affirm, that in +still nights I have frequently heard them make a rustling and crackling +noise, like the waving of a large flag in a fresh gale of wind. This is +not peculiar to the place of which I am now writing, as I have heard the +same noise very plain at Churchill River; and in all probability it is +only for want of attention that it has not been heard in every part of +the Northern hemisphere where they have been known to shine with any +considerable degree of lustre. It is, however, very probable that these +lights are sometimes much nearer the Earth than they are at others, +according to the state of the atmosphere, and this may have a great +effect on the sound: but the truth or falsehood of this conjecture I +leave to the determinations of those who are better skilled in natural +philosophy than I can pretend to be. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +Indian deer (the only species found in those parts, except the moose) +are so much larger than those which {225} frequent the barren grounds to +the North of Churchill River, that a small doe is equal in size to a +Northern buck. The hair of the former is of a sandy red during the +Winter; and their horns, though much stronger, are not so long and +branchy as are those of the latter kind. Neither is the flesh of those +deer so much esteemed by the Northern Indians, as that of the smaller +kind, which inhabit the more Eastern and Northern parts of the country. +Indeed, it must be allowed to be much coarser, and of a different +flavour; inasmuch as the large Lincolnshire mutton differs from grass +lamb. I must acknowledge, however, that I always thought it very good. +This is that species of deer which are found so plentiful near York Fort +and Severn River. They are also at times found in considerable numbers +near Churchill River; and I have seen them killed as far North, near the +sea-side, as Seal River: But the small Northern Indian deer are seldom +known to cross Churchill River, except in some very extraordinary cold +seasons, and when the Northern winds have prevailed much in the +preceding fall; for those visits are always made in the Winter. But +though I own that the flesh of the large Southern deer is very good, I +must at the same time confess that the flesh of the small Northern deer, +whether buck or doe, in their proper season, is by far more delicious +and the finest I have ever eaten, either in this country or any other; +and is of that peculiar quality, that it never cloys. I can affirm this +from my own experience; {226} for after living on it entirely, as it may +be said, for twelve or eighteen months successively, I scarcely ever +wished for a change of food; though when fish or fowl came in my way, it +was very agreeable. + +The beaver[98] being so plentiful, the attention of my companions was +chiefly engaged on them, as they not only furnished delicious food, but +their skins proved a valuable acquisition, being a principal article of +trade, as well as a serviceable one for clothing, &c. + +The situation of the beaver-houses is various. Where the beavers are +numerous they are found to inhabit lakes, ponds, and rivers, as well as +those narrow creeks which connect the numerous lakes with which this +country abounds; but the two latter are generally chosen by them when +the depth of water and other circumstances are suitable, as they have +then the advantage of a current to convey wood and other necessaries to +their habitations, and because, in general, they are more difficult to +be taken, than those that are built in standing water. + +There is no one particular part of a lake, pond, river, or creek, of +which the beavers make choice for building their houses on, in +preference to another; for they sometimes build on points, sometimes in +the hollow of a bay, and often on small islands; they always chuse, +however, {227} those parts that have such a depth of water as will +resist the frost in Winter, and prevent it from freezing to the bottom. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +The beaver that build their houses in small rivers or creeks, in which +the water is liable to be drained off when the back supplies are dried +up by the frost, are wonderfully taught by instinct to provide against +that evil, by making a dam quite across the river, at a convenient +distance from their houses. This I look upon as the most curious piece +of workmanship that is performed by the beaver; not so much for the +neatness of the work, as for its strength and real service; and at the +same time it discovers such a degree of sagacity and foresight in the +animal, of approaching evils, as is little inferior to that of the human +species, and is certainly peculiar to those animals. + +The beaver-dams differ in shape according to the nature of the place in +which they are built. If the water in the river or creek have but little +motion, the dam is almost straight; but when the current is more rapid, +it is always made with a considerable curve, convex towards the stream. +The materials made use of in those dams are drift-wood, green willows, +birch, and poplars, if they can be got; also mud and stones, intermixed +in such a manner as must evidently contribute to the strength of the +dam; but in these dams there is no other order or method observed, {228} +except that of the work being carried on with a regular sweep, and all +the parts being made of equal strength. + +In places which have been long frequented by beaver undisturbed, their +dams, by frequent repairing, become a solid bank, capable of resisting a +great force both of water and ice; and as the willow, poplar, and birch +generally take root and shoot up, they by degrees form a kind of +regular-planted hedge, which I have seen in some places so tall, that +birds have built their nests among the branches. + +Though the beaver which build their houses in lakes and other standing +waters, may enjoy a sufficient quantity of their favourite element +without the assistance of a dam, the trouble of getting wood and other +necessaries to their habitations without the help of a current, must in +some measure counterbalance the other advantages which are reaped from +such a situation; for it must be observed, that the beaver which build +in rivers and creeks, always cut their wood above their houses, so that +the current, with little trouble, conveys it to the place required. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +The beaver-houses are built of the same materials as their dams, and are +always proportioned in size to the number of inhabitants, which seldom +exceed four old, and six or eight young ones; though, by chance, I have +seen above double that number. + +{229} These houses, though not altogether unworthy of admiration, fall +very short of the general description given of them; for instead of +order or regulation being observed in rearing them, they are of a much +ruder structure than their dams. + +Those who have undertaken to describe the inside of beaver-houses, as +having several apartments appropriated to various uses; such as eating, +sleeping, store-houses for provisions, and one for their natural +occasions, &c. must have been very little acquainted with the subject; +or, which is still worse, guilty of attempting to impose on the +credulous, by representing the greatest falsehoods as real facts. Many +years constant residence among the Indians, during which I had an +opportunity of seeing several hundreds of those houses, has enabled me +to affirm that every thing of the kind is entirely void of truth; for, +notwithstanding the sagacity of those animals, it has never been +observed that they aim at any other conveniencies in their houses, than +to have a dry place to lie on; and there they usually eat their +victuals, which they occasionally take out of the water. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +It frequently happens, that some of the large houses are found to have +one or more partitions, if they deserve that appellation; but that is no +more than a part of the main building, left by the sagacity of the +beaver to support the roof. On such occasions it is common for those +{230} different apartments, as some are pleased to call them, to have no +communication with each other but by water; so that in fact they may be +called double or treble houses, rather than different apartments of the +same house. I have seen a large beaver-house built in a small island, +that had near a dozen apartments under one roof: and, two or three of +these only excepted, none of them had any communication with each other +but by water. As there were beaver enough to inhabit each apartment, it +is more than probable that each family knew its own, and always entered +at their own door, without having any farther connection with their +neighbours than a friendly intercourse; and to join their united labours +in erecting their separate habitations, and building their dams where +required. It is difficult to say whether their interest on other +occasions was anyways reciprocal. The Indians of my party killed twelve +old beaver, and twenty-five young and half-grown ones out of the house +above mentioned; and on examination found that several had escaped their +vigilance, and could not be taken but at the expence of more trouble +than would be sufficient to take double the number in a less difficult +situation.[AZ] + +Travellers who assert that the beaver have two doors to their houses, +one on the land-side, and the other next the {231} water, seem to be +less acquainted with those animals than others who assign them an +elegant suite of apartments. Such a proceeding would be quite contrary +to their manner of life, and at the same time would render their houses +of no use, either to protect them from their enemies, or guard them +against the extreme cold in Winter. + +The quiquehatches, or wolvereens, are great enemies to the beaver; and +if there were a passage into their houses on the land-side, would not +leave one of them alive wherever they came. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +I cannot refrain from smiling, when I read the accounts of different +Authors who have written on the oeconomy of those animals, as there +seems to be a contest between them, who shall most exceed in fiction. +But the Compiler of the Wonders of Nature and Art seems, in my opinion, +to have succeeded best in this respect; as he has not only collected all +the fictions into which other writers on the subject have run, but has +so greatly improved on them, that little remains to be added to his +account of the beaver, beside a vocabulary of their language, a code of +their laws, and a sketch of their religion, to make it the most complete +natural history of that animal which can possibly be offered to the +public. + +There cannot be a greater imposition, or indeed a grosser insult, on +common understanding, than the wish {232} to make us believe the stories +of some of the works ascribed to the beaver; and though it is not to be +supposed that the compiler of a general work can be intimately +acquainted with every subject of which it may be necessary to treat, yet +a very moderate share of understanding is surely sufficient to guard him +against giving credit to such marvellous tales, however smoothly they +may be told, or however boldly they may be asserted, by the romancing +traveller. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +To deny that the beaver is possessed of a very considerable degree of +sagacity, would be as absurd in me, as it is in those Authors who think +they cannot allow them too much. I shall willingly grant them their full +share; but it is impossible for any one to conceive how, or by what +means, a beaver, whose full height when standing erect does not exceed +two feet and a half, or three feet at most, and whose fore-paws are not +much larger than a half-crown piece, can "drive stakes as thick as a +man's leg into the ground three or four feet deep." Their "wattling +those stakes with twigs," is equally absurd; and their "plaistering the +inside of their houses with a composition of mud and straw," and +"swimming with mud and stones on their tails," are still more +incredible. The form and size of the animal, notwithstanding all its +sagacity, will not admit of its performing such feats; and it would be +as impossible for a beaver to use its tail as a trowel, except on the +surface of the ground on which it walks, as it {233} would have been for +Sir James Thornhill to have painted the dome of St. Paul's cathedral +without the assistance of scaffolding. The joints of their tail will not +admit of their turning it over their backs on any occasion whatever, as +it has a natural inclination to bend downwards; and it is not without +some considerable exertion that they can keep it from trailing on the +ground. This being the case, they cannot sit erect like a squirrel, +which is their common posture: particularly when eating, or when they +are cleaning themselves, as a cat or squirrel does, without having their +tails bent forward between their legs; and which may not improperly be +called their trencher. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +So far are the beaver from driving stakes into the ground when building +their houses, that they lay most of the wood crosswise, and nearly +horizontal, and without any other order than that of leaving a hollow or +cavity in the middle; when any unnecessary branches project inward, they +cut them off with their teeth, and throw them in among the rest, to +prevent the mud from falling through the roof. It is a mistaken notion, +that the wood-work is first completed and then plaistered; for the whole +of their houses, as well as their dams, are from the foundation one mass +of wood and mud, mixed with stones, if they can be procured. The mud is +always taken from the edge of the bank, or the bottom of the creek or +pond, near the door of the house; and though their fore-paws are so +small, yet it is held close up between them, under their throat, {234} +that they carry both mud and stones; while they always drag the wood +with their teeth. + +All their work is executed in the night; and they are so expeditious in +completing it, that in the course of one night I have known them to have +collected as much mud at their houses as to have amounted to some +thousands of their little handfuls; and when any mixture of grass or +straw has appeared in it, it has been, most assuredly, mere chance, +owing to the nature of the ground from which they had taken it. As to +their designedly making a composition for that purpose, it is entirely +void of truth. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +It is a great piece of policy in those animals, to cover, or plaister, +as it is usually called, the outside of their houses every fall with +fresh mud, and as late as possible in the Autumn, even when the frost +becomes pretty severe; as by this means it soon freezes as hard as a +stone, and prevents their common enemy, the quiquehatch, from disturbing +them during the Winter. And as they are frequently seen to walk over +their work, and sometimes to give a flap with their tail, particularly +when plunging into the water, this has, without doubt, given rise to the +vulgar opinion that they use their tails as a trowel, with which they +plaister their houses; whereas that flapping of the tail is no more than +a custom, which they always preserve, even when they become tame and +domestic, and more particularly so when they are startled. + +{235} Their food chiefly consists of a large root, something resembling +a cabbage-stalk, which grows at the bottom of the lakes and rivers. They +eat also the bark of trees, particularly that of the poplar, birch, and +willow; but the ice preventing them from getting to the land in Winter, +they have not any barks to feed upon during that season, except that of +such sticks as they cut down in Summer, and throw into the water +opposite the doors of their houses; and as they generally eat a great +deal, the roots above mentioned constitute a chief part of their food +during the Winter. In Summer they vary their diet, by eating various +kinds of herbage, and such berries as grow near their haunts during that +season. + +When the ice breaks up in the Spring, the beaver always leave their +houses, and rove about the whole Summer, probably in search of a more +commodious situation; but in case of not succeeding in their endeavours, +they return again to their old habitations a little before the fall of +the leaf, and lay in their Winter stock of woods. They seldom begin to +repair the houses till the frost commences, and never finish the +outer-coat till the cold is pretty severe, as hath been already +mentioned. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +When they shift their habitations, or when the increase of their number +renders it necessary to make some addition to their houses, or to erect +new ones, they begin felling {236} the wood for these purposes early in +the Summer, but seldom begin to build till the middle or latter end of +August, and never complete their houses till the cold weather be set in. + +Notwithstanding what has been so repeatedly reported of those animals +assembling in great bodies, and jointly erecting large towns, cities, +and commonwealths, as they have sometimes been called, I am confident, +from many circumstances, that even where the greatest numbers of beaver +are situated in the neighbourhood of each other, their labours are not +carried on jointly in the erection of their different habitations, nor +have they any reciprocal interest, except it be such as live immediately +under the same roof; and then it extends no farther than to build or +keep a dam which is common to several houses. In such cases it is +natural to think that every one who receives benefit from such dams, +should assist in erecting it, being sensible of its utility to all. + +Persons who attempt to take beaver in Winter should be thoroughly +acquainted with their manner of life, otherwise they will have endless +trouble to effect their purpose, and probably without success in the +end; because they have always a number of holes in the banks, which +serve them as places of retreat when any injury is offered to their +houses; and in general it is in those holes that they are taken. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +{237} When the beaver which are situated in a small river or creek are +to be taken, the Indians sometimes find it necessary to stake the river +across, to prevent them from passing; after which, they endeavour to +find out all their holes or places of retreat in the banks. This +requires much practice and experience to accomplish, and is performed in +the following manner: Every man being furnished with an ice-chisel, +lashes it to the end of a small staff about four or five feet long; he +then walks along the edge of the banks, and keeps knocking his chisels +against the ice. Those who are well acquainted with that kind of work +well know by the sound of the ice when they are opposite to any of the +beavers' holes or vaults. + +As soon as they suspect any, they cut a hole through the ice big enough +to admit an old beaver; and in this manner proceed till they have found +out all their places of retreat, or at least as many of them as +possible. While the principal men are thus employed, some of the +understrappers, and the women, are busy in breaking open the house, +which at times is no easy task; for I have frequently known these houses +to be five and six feet thick; and one in particular, was more than +eight feet thick on the crown. When the beaver find that their +habitations are invaded, they fly to their holes in the banks for +shelter; and on being perceived by the Indians, which is easily done, by +attending to the motion of the water, they block up the entrance with +stakes of wood, and then haul the beaver out of its hole, either by +hand, if they can reach it, or with a large hook {238} made for that +purpose, which is fastened to the end of a long stick. + +In this kind of hunting, every man has the sole right to all the beaver +caught by him in the holes or vaults; and as this is a constant rule, +each person takes care to mark such as he discovers, by sticking up the +branch of a tree, or some other distinguishing post, by which he may +know them. All that are caught in the house also are the property of the +person who finds it. + +The same regulations are observed, and the same process used in taking +beaver that are found in lakes and other standing waters, except it be +that of staking the lake across, which would be both unnecessary and +impossible. Taking beaver-houses in these situations is generally +attended with less trouble and more success than in the former. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +The beaver is an animal which cannot keep under water long at a time; so +that when their houses are broke open, and all their places of retreat +discovered, they have but one choice left, as it may be called, either +to be taken in their houses or their vaults: in general they prefer the +latter; for where there is one beaver caught in the house, many +thousands are taken in their vaults in the banks. Sometimes they are +caught in nets, and in the Summer very frequently in traps. In Winter +they are very fat and {239} delicious; but the trouble of rearing their +young, the thinness of their hair, and their constantly roving from +place to place, with the trouble they have in providing against the +approach of Winter, generally keep them very poor during the Summer +season, at which time their flesh is but indifferent eating, and their +skins of so little value, that the Indians generally singe them, even to +the amount of many thousands in one Summer. They have from two to five +young, at a time. Mr. Dobbs, in his Account of Hudson's Bay, enumerates +no less than eight different kinds of beaver[99]; but it must be +understood that they are all of one kind and species; his distinctions +arise wholly from the different seasons of the year in which they are +killed, and the different uses to which their skins are applied, which +is the sole reason that they vary so much in value. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +Joseph Lefranc, or Mr. Dobbs for him, says, that a good hunter can kill +six hundred beaver in one season, and can only carry one hundred to +market. If that was really the case in Lefranc's time, the canoes must +have been much smaller than they are at present; for it is well known +that the generality of the canoes which have visited the Company's +Factories for the last forty or fifty years, are capable of carrying +three hundred beaver-skins with great ease, exclusive of the Indians +luggage, provisions, &c.[100] + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +{240} If ever a particular Indian killed six hundred beaver in one +Winter, (which is rather to be doubted), it is more than probable that +many in his company did not kill twenty, and perhaps some none at all, +so that by distributing them among those who had bad success, and others +who had no abilities for that kind of hunting, there would be no +necessity of leaving them to rot, or for singing them in the fire, as +related by that Author. During my residence among the Indians I have +known some individuals kill more beaver, and other heavy furrs, in the +course of a Winter, than their wives could manage; but the overplus was +never wantonly destroyed, but always given to their relations, or to +those who had been less successful; so that the whole of the great +hunters' labours were always brought to the Factory. It is indeed too +frequently a custom among the Southern Indians to singe many otters, as +well as beaver; but this is seldom done, except in Summer, when their +skins are of so little value as to be scarcely worth the duty; on which +account it has been always thought impolitic to encourage the natives to +kill such valuable animals at a time when their skins are not in season. + +The white beaver, mentioned by Lefranc, are so rare, that instead of +being "blown upon by the Company's Factors," as he asserts, I rather +doubt whether one-tenth of them ever saw one during the time of their +residence in this country. In the course of twenty years experience in +the countries {241} about Hudson's Bay, though I travelled six hundred +miles to the West of the sea-coast, I never saw but one white +beaver-skin, and it had many reddish and brown hairs along the ridge of +the back, and the sides and belly were of a glossy silvery white. It was +deemed by the Indians a great curiosity; and I offered three times the +usual price for a few of them, if they could be got; but in the course +of ten years that I remained there afterward, I could not procure +another; which is a convincing proof there is no such thing as a breed +of that kind, and that a variation from the usual colour is very rare. + +Black beaver, and that of a beautiful gloss, are not uncommon: perhaps +they are more plentiful at Churchill than at any other Factory in the +Bay; but it is rare to get more than twelve or fifteen of their skins in +the course of one year's trade. + +Lefranc, as an Indian, must have known better than to have informed Mr. +Dobbs that the beaver have from ten to fifteen young at a time; or if he +did, he must have deceived him wilfully; for the Indians, by killing +them in all stages of gestation, have abundant opportunities of +ascertaining the usual number of their offspring. I have seen some +hundreds of them killed at the seasons favourable for those +observations, and never could discover more than six young in one +female, and that only in two {242} instances; for the usual number, as I +have before observed, is from two to five. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +Besides this unerring method of ascertaining the real number of young +which any animal has at a time, there is another rule to go by, with +respect to the beaver, which experience has proved to the Indians never +to vary or deceive them, that is by dissection; for on examining the +womb of a beaver, even at a time when not with young, there is always +found a hardish round knob for every young she had at the last litter. +This is a circumstance I have been particularly careful to examine, and +can affirm it to be true, from real experience. + +Most of the accounts, nay I may say all the accounts now extant, +respecting the beaver, are taken from the authority of the French who +have resided in Canada; but those accounts differ so much from the real +state and oeconomy of all the beaver to the North of that place, as to +leave great room to suspect the truth of them altogether. In the first +place, the assertion that they have two doors to their houses, one on +the land-side, and the other next the water, is, as I have before +observed, quite contrary to fact and common sense, as it would render +their houses of no use to them, either as places of shelter from the +inclemency of the extreme cold in Winter, or as a retreat from their +common enemy the quiquehatch. The only thing {243} that could have made +M. Du Pratz, and other French writers, conjecture that such a thing did +exist, must have been from having seen some old beaver houses which had +been taken by the Indians; for they are always obliged to make a hole in +one side of the house before they can drive them out; and it is more +than probable that in so mild a climate as Canada, the Indians do +generally make those holes on the land-side,[BA] which without doubt +gave rise to the suggestion. + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +[Sidenote: 1771. December.] + +In respect to the beaver dunging in their houses, as some persons +assert, it is quite wrong, as they always plunge into the water to do +it. I am the better enabled to make this assertion, from having kept +several of them till they became so domesticated as to answer to their +name, and follow those to whom they were accustomed, in the same manner +as a dog would do; and they were as much pleased at being fondled, as +any animal I ever saw. I had a house built for them, and a small piece +of water before the door, into which they always plunged when they +wanted to ease nature; and their dung being of a light substance, +immediately rises and floats on the surface, {244} then separates and +subsides to the bottom. When the Winter sets in so as to freeze the +water solid, they still continue their custom of coming out of their +house, and dunging and making water on the ice; and when the weather was +so cold that I was obliged to take them into my house, they always went +into a large tub of water which I set for that purpose; so that they +made not the least dirt, though they were kept in my own sitting-room, +where they were the constant companions of the Indian women and +children, and were so fond of their company, that when the Indians were +absent for any considerable time, the beaver discovered great signs of +uneasiness, and on their return shewed equal marks of pleasure, by +fondling on them, crawling into their laps, laying on their backs, +sitting erect like a squirrel, and behaving to them like children who +see their parents but seldom. In general, during the Winter they lived +on the same food as the women did, and were remarkably fond of rice and +plum-pudding: they would eat partridges and fresh venison very freely, +but I never tried them with fish, though I have heard they will at times +prey on them. In fact, there are few of the granivorous animals that may +not be brought to be carnivorous. It is well known that our domestic +poultry will eat animal food: thousands of geese that come to London +market are fattened on tallow-craps; and our horses in Hudson's Bay +would not only eat all kinds of animal food, but also drink freely of +the wash, or pot-liquor, intended for the {245} hogs. And we are assured +by the most authentic Authors, that in Iceland, not only black cattle, +but also the sheep, are almost entirely fed on fish and fish-bones +during the Winter season. Even in the Isles of Orkney, and that in +Summer, the sheep attend the ebbing of the tide as regular as the +Esquimaux curlew, and go down to the shore which the tide has left, to +feed on the sea-weed. This, however, is through necessity, for even the +famous Island of Pomona[BB] will not afford them an existence above +high-water-mark. + +With respect to the inferior, or slave-beaver, of which some Authors +speak, it is, in my opinion, very difficult for those who are best +acquainted with the oeconomy of this animal to determine whether there +are any that deserve that appellation or not. It sometimes happens, that +a beaver is caught, which has but a very indifferent coat, and which has +broad patches on the back, and shoulders almost wholly without hair. +This is the only foundation for asserting that there is an inferior, or +slave-beaver, among them. And when one of the above description is +taken, it is perhaps too hastily inferred that the hair is worn off from +those parts by carrying heavy loads: whereas it is most probable that it +is caused by a disorder that attacks them somewhat similar to the mange; +for {246} were that falling off of the hair occasioned by performing +extra labour, it is natural to think that instances of it would be more +frequent than there are; as it is rare to see one of them in the course +of seven or ten years. I have seen a whole house of those animals that +had nothing on the surface of their bodies but the fine soft down; all +the long hairs having molted off. This and every other deviation from +the general run is undoubtedly owing to some particular disorder. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[86] Sir John Richardson says of Thaye-chuck-gyed Lake that it lies a +short way to the northward of Point Lake. + +[87] These are larvae of a fly (_Hypoderma liniata?_), the eggs of which +are laid in the skins of the deer in the early part of the summer. Here +they develop to the size of buckshot or larger, and those portions of +the skin covering them become very thin, so that when the hide is taken +off and tanned it is so full of holes, a quarter of an inch or more in +diameter, as to be almost entirely useless. + +[88] Sir John Franklin crossed Point Lake in 1821, and the "small +scrubby woods" on its banks were noted by him, when he descended and +surveyed the Coppermine River from it to the sea. Hearne places the +south side of this lake on his map in North latitude 65 deg. 45', only about +thirty-five miles north of its true position. Caspar Whitney crossed +Point Lake in the spring of 1895, and calls it Ecka tua (Fat-Water +Lake). ("On Snowshoes to the Barren Grounds." By Caspar Whitney, p. +209.) Russell, in speaking of the Coppermine River which he crossed in +April 1894, says, "It takes its rise in a large lake, called Ek-a Tooh, +which is two days' journey in length." ("Explorations in the Far North." +By Frank Russell, p. 112.) + +[89] There is no evidence that any observations for latitude had been +taken since he left Congecathawhachaga. Possibly the quadrant had been +left behind with the women at that place, to be picked up again when he +returned. But now, with the destruction of the quadrant, all uncertainty +as to the character of the remainder of his survey is set at rest. His +distances were estimated, and the general directions were doubtless +taken with a magnetic compass, while observations for latitude were +impossible. + +[AV] The piece of iron above mentioned was the coulter of a +new-fashioned plough, invented by Captain John Fowler, late Governor of +Churchill River, with which he had a large piece of ground ploughed, and +afterwards sowed with oats: but the part being nothing but a hot burning +sand, like the Spanish lines at Gibraltar, the success may easily be +guessed; which was, that it did not produce a single grain. + +[90] This lake is identified by Sir John Richardson as the Providence +Lake of Franklin and of the present maps, but it is more likely to be +Mackay Lake, which is much more nearly the size of lake here described, +and the description of the woods on the south shore agrees closely with +the description of Lake Mackay given by Mr. Warburton Pike, who visited +that region in 1890. This determination agrees also with the statement +of Hearne, that No Name Lake lies but a short distance north of the edge +of the "main woods," for the northern edge of the forest crosses the +country from east to west, a few miles south of this lake. On Caspar +Whitney's map of his trip through the barren grounds this lake is called +King or Grizzly Bear Lake. Mr. C. Harding, the officer in charge of Fort +Resolution, the Hudson Bay Company's post on Great Slave Lake, has sent +me the following Chipewyan Indian names of lakes, &c., in this region:-- + + ENGLISH. CHIPEWYAN. MEANING. + Mackay Lake. Clayki thua. White Sand Lake. + Le Gras Lake. A ka thua. Fat Lake. + (doubtless the same as Point Lake). + Aylmer Lake. Chlueata thua. Caribou swimming among + the ice Lake. + Artillery Lake. Atacho thua. Caribou crossing in the + middle of the lake Lake. + Coppermine River. Sanka taza. Copper River. + Musk Ox Mountain. Edegadaniyatha. + +[91] Mr. Harding informs me this is a lake lying a short distance south +of Mackay Lake, and now known as "Lake of the Enemy." Anaw'd is +doubtless the same word as Enna, which is the Chipewyan name for a Cree +Indian. + +Away to the west of this another large lake is indicated on the map, +doubtless from the reports of the Indians, but no name is attached to +it. On the Cook map this western lake is called Edlande Lake. + +[92] L'abbe Petitot states (_op. cit._, p. 143) that there are five +rivers flowing into the north side of McLeod Bay of Great Slave Lake, +and the little stream which flows from Methy Lake is doubtless one of +these, and possibly Hoarfrost River. In that case Methy Lake is almost +certainly Cook Lake, which agrees with Hearne's description inasmuch as +it lies just within the edge of the woods. + +[93] Great Slave Lake. + +[AW] The course of this river is nearly South West. + +[94] _Lepus americanus_ (Erxl.).--E. A. P. + +[95] _Canachites canadensis_ (Linn.).--E. A. P. + +[AX] His name was Cos-abyagh, the Northern Indian name for the Rock +Partridge. + +[AY] As a proof of this, Matonabbee, (who always thought me possessed of +this art,) on his arrival at Prince of Wales's Fort in the Winter of +1778, informed me, that a man whom I had never seen but once, had +treated him in such a manner that he was afraid of his life; in +consequence of which he pressed me very much to kill him, though I was +then several hundreds of miles distant: On which, to please this great +man to whom I owed so much, and not expecting that any harm could +possibly arise from it, I drew a rough sketch of two human figures on a +piece of paper, in the attitude of wrestling: in the hand of one of +them, I drew the figure of a bayonet pointing to the breast of the +other. This is me, said I to Matonabbee, pointing to the figure which +was holding the bayonet; and the other, is your enemy. Opposite to those +figures I drew a pine-tree, over which I placed a large human eye, and +out of the tree projected a human hand. This paper I gave to Matonabbee, +with instructions to make it as publicly known as possible. Sure enough, +the following year, when he came in to trade, he informed me that the +man was dead, though at that time he was not less than three hundred +miles from Prince of Wales's Fort. He assured me that the man was in +perfect health when he heard of my design against him; but almost +immediately afterwards became quite gloomy, and refusing all kind of +sustenance, in a very few days died. After this I was frequently applied +to on the same account, both by Matonabbee and other leading Indians, +but never thought proper to comply with their requests; by which means I +not only preserved the credit I gained on the first attempt, but always +kept them in awe, and in some degree of respect and obedience to me. In +fact, strange as it may appear, it is almost absolutely necessary that +the chiefs at this place should profess something a little supernatural, +to be able to deal with those people. The circumstance here recorded is +a fact well known to Mr. William Jefferson, who succeeded me at +Churchill Factory, as well as to all the officers and many of the common +men who were at Prince of Wales's Fort at the time. + +[96] The lake which he has now reached and which he calls Athapuscow +Lake, Arathapescow Lake of the Cook and Pennant maps, is Great Slave +Lake of the present maps, or the Slave Lake of Alexander Mackenzie, and +not the lake now known as Athabasca Lake; and the point at which he +reached it was somewhere east of the entrance to the North Arm. +According to l'Abbe Petitot, the name Athabasca is a Cree word, +referring to a reedy, grassy mouth of a river, and means "The Herbaceous +Network." It does not appear to have been the original name of any +particular place or lake, but was doubtless applied to this lake by +Hearne on account of the great marsh which covers much of the delta of +Slave River, and later it was applied to the lake now known as Athabasca +Lake on account of the character of the delta at the mouth of Athabasca +River, near which Peter Pond, a trader from Montreal, established in +1778 the first trading-post on the Mackenzie waters. His map of 1785 +designates the lake Arabasca Lake. Petitot states (Royal Geographical +Society, vol. v. N.S. 1883, p. 728) that Great Slave Lake is called +"'Thu-tue,' or 'Lake of the Breasts,' by the Chipewyans, because its +eastern part is terminated by two extensive bays, in outline fancifully +resembling the female bosom." + +[97] Indian Deer = Wood Caribou (_Rangifer caribou_ (Gmel.)).--E. A. P. + +[98] _Castor canadensis_ Kuhl. + +[AZ] The difficulty here alluded to, was the numberless vaults the +beaver had in the sides of the pond, and the immense thickness of the +house in some parts. + +[99] The eight different kinds of beavers referred to by Mr. Dobbs are +rather eight different grades of beaver-skins classified on a strictly +commercial basis. His statement is: + +"There are eight kinds of Beavers received at the Farmer's Office. + +"The first is the fat Winter Beaver, kill'd in Winter, which is worth +5s. 6d. per Pound. + +"The Second is the fat Summer Beaver, killed in Summer, and is worth 2s. +9d. + +"The third the dry Winter Beaver, and fourth the Bordeau, is much the +same, and are worth 3s. 6d. + +"The fifth the dry Summer Beaver is worth very little, about 1s. 9d. per +Pound. + +"The sixth is the Coat Beaver, which is worn till it is half greased, +and is worth 4s. 6d. per Pound. + +"The 7th the Muscovite dry Beaver, of a fine Skin, covered over with a +silky Hair; they wear it in Russia, and comb away all the short Down, +which they make into Stuffs and other Works, leaving nothing but the +silky Hair; this is worth 4s. 6d. per Pound. + +"The eighth is the Mittain Beaver, cut out for that Purpose to make +Mittains, to preserve them from the Cold, and are greased by being used, +and are worth 1s. 9d. per Pound." ("An Account of the Countries +adjoining to Hudson's Bay." By Arthur Dobbs, London, 1744, pp. 25-26.) + +On a later page, quoting Joseph Lefranc: "The Beavers, he says, are of +three Colours; the brown reddish Colour, the black, and the white; the +first is the cheapest; the black is most valued by the Company, and in +England; the white, tho' most valued in Canada, giving 18 Shillings, +when others gave 5 or 6 Shillings, is blown upon by the Company's +Factors at the Bay, they not allowing so much for these as for the +others; and therefore the Indians use them at home, or burn off the +Hair, when they roast the Beavers like Pigs, at an Entertainment when +they feast together; he says these Skins are extremely white, and have a +fine Lustre, no Snow being whiter, and have a fine long Fur or Hair; he +has seen 15 taken of that Colour out of one Lodge or Pond." (Ibid., pp. +39-40.) + +White Beavers are not often caught. One skin which I obtained from the +vicinity of the Winnipeg River, in Eastern Manitoba, had a decidedly +pinkish tint. + +[100] As dried Beaver skins weigh on an average from one and a half to +two pounds, 300 skins would weigh on an average from 450 to 600 lbs., +which is a heavier load than most of the birch-bark canoes made by the +Chipewyans will carry in addition to the Indians and their necessary +baggage and provisions. Dobbs's statement that 100 Beaver skins is a +load for an Indian canoe is more nearly correct. + +[BA] The Northern Indians think that the sagacity of the beaver directs +them to make that part of their house which fronts the North much +thicker than any other part, with a view of defending themselves from +the cold winds which generally blow from that quarter during the Winter; +and for this reason the Northern Indians generally break open that side +of the beaver-houses which exactly front the South. + +[BB] This being the largest of the Orkney Islands, is called by the +inhabitants the Main Land. + + + + +{247} CHAP. VIII. + + Transactions and Remarks from our Arrival on the South Side of + the Athapuscow Lake, till our Arrival at Prince of Wales's Fort + on Churchill River. + + _Cross the Athapuscow Lake--Description of it and its + productions, as far as could be discovered in Winter, when the + snow was on the ground--Fish found in the lake--Description of + the buffalo;--of the moose or elk, and the method of dressing + their skins--Find a woman alone that had not seen a human face + for more than seven months--Her account how she came to be in + that situation; and her curious method of procuring a + livelihood--Many of my Indians wrestled for her--Arrive at the + Great Athapuscow River--Walk along the side of the River for + several days, and then strike off to the Eastward--Difficulty in + getting through the woods in many places--Meet with some strange + Northern Indians on their return from the Fort--Meet more + strangers, whom my companions plundered, and from whom they took + one of their young women--Curious manner of life which those + strangers lead, and the reason they gave for roving so far from + their usual residence--Leave the fine level country of the + Athapuscows, and arrive at the Stony Hills of the Northern + Indian Country--Meet some strange Northern Indians, one of whom + carried a letter for me to Prince of Wales's Fort, in March one + thousand seven hundred and seventy-one, and now gave me an + answer to it, dated twentieth of June following--Indians begin + preparing wood-work and birch-rind for canoes--The equinoctial + gale very severe--Indian method of running the moose deer down + by speed of foot--Arrival at Theeleyaza River--See some + strangers--The brutality of my companions--A tremendous gale and + snow-drift--Meet with more strangers;--Remarks on it--Leave all + the elderly people and children, {248} and proceed directly to + the Fort--Stop to build canoes, and then advance--Several of the + Indians die through hunger, and many others are obliged to + decline the journey for want of ammunition--A violent storm and + inundation, that forced us to the top of a high hill, where we + suffered great distress for more than two days--Kill several + deer--The Indians method of preserving the flesh without the + assistance of salt--See several Indians that were going to + Knapp's Bay--Game of all kinds remarkably plentiful--Arrive at + the Factory._ + + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +[Sidenote: 9th.] + +After expending some days in hunting beaver, we proceeded to cross the +Athapuscow Lake; but as we had lost much time in hunting deer and +beaver, which were very plentiful on some of the islands, it was the +ninth of January before we arrived on the South side. + +This lake, from the best information which I could get from the natives, +is about one hundred and twenty leagues long from East to West, and +twenty wide from North to South. The point where we crossed it is said +to be the narrowest. It is full of islands; most of which are clothed +with fine tall poplars, birch, and pines, and are well stocked with +Indian deer. On some of the large islands we also found several beaver; +but this must be understood only of such islands as had large ponds in +them; for not one beaver-house was to be seen on the margin of any of +them.[101] + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +The lake is stored with great quantities of very fine fish; particularly +between the islands, which in some {249} parts are so close to each +other as to form very narrow channels, like little rivers, in which I +found (when angling for fish) a considerable current setting to the +Eastward. + +The fish that are common in this lake, as well as in most of the other +lakes in this country, are pike, trout, perch, barble, tittameg, and +methy[102]; the two last are names given by the natives to two species +of fish which are found only in this country. Besides these, we also +caught another kind of fish, which is said by the Northern Indians to be +peculiar to this lake; at least none of the same kind have been met with +in any other. The body of this fish much resembles a pike in shape; but +the scales, which are very large and stiff, are of a beautifully bright +silver colour; the mouth is large, and situated like that of a pike; but +when open, much resembles that of a sturgeon; and though not provided +with any teeth, takes a bait as ravenously as a pike or a trout. The +sizes we caught were from two feet long to four feet. Their flesh, +though delicately white, is very soft, and has so rank a taste, that +many of the Indians, except they are in absolute want, will not eat it. +The Northern Indians call this fish Shees.[103] The trout in this lake +are of the largest size I ever saw; some that were caught by my +companions could not, I think, be less than thirty-five or forty pounds +weight. Pike are also of an incredible size in this extensive water; +here they are seldom {250} molested, and have multitudes of smaller fish +to prey upon. If I say that I have seen some of these fish that were +upwards of forty pounds weight, I am sure I do not exceed the truth. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +Immediately on our arrival on the South side of the Athapuscow Lake, the +scene was agreeably altered, from an entire jumble of rocks and hills, +for such is all the land on the North side, to a fine level country, in +which there was not a hill to be seen, or a stone to be found: so that +such of my companions as had not brass kettles, loaded their sledges +with stones from some of the last islands, to boil their victuals with +in their birch-rind kettles, which will not admit of being exposed to +the fire. They therefore heat stones and drop them into the water in the +kettle to make it boil. + +Buffalo,[104] moose, and beaver were very plentiful; and we could +discover, in many parts through which we passed, the tracks of martins, +foxes, quiquehatches, and other animals of the furr kind: so that they +were by no means scarce: but my companions never gave themselves the +least trouble to catch any of the three last mentioned animals; for the +buffalo, moose, and beaver engaged all their attention; perhaps +principally so on account of the excellency of their flesh; whereas the +flesh of the fox and quiquehatch are never eaten by those people, except +when they are in the greatest distress, and then merely to save {251} +life. Their reasons for this shall be given in a subsequent part of my +Journal. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +The buffalo in those parts, I think, are in general much larger than the +English black cattle; particularly the bulls, which, though they may not +in reality be taller than the largest size of the English oxen, yet to +me always appeared to be much larger. In fact, they are so heavy, that +when six or eight Indians are in company at the skinning of a large +bull, they never attempt to turn it over while entire, but when the +upper side is skinned, they cut off the leg and shoulder, rip up the +belly, take out all the intestines, cut off the head, and make it as +light as possible, before they turn it to skin the under side. The skin +is in some places of an incredible thickness, particularly about the +neck, where it often exceeds an inch. The horns are short, black, and +almost straight, but very thick at the roots or base. + +The head of an old bull is of a great size and weight indeed: some which +I have seen were so large, that I could not without difficulty lift them +from the ground;[BC] {252} but the heads of the cows are much smaller. +Their tails are, in general, about a foot long, though some appear to +be, exclusive of the long brush of hair at the end, longer. The hair on +the tails of the bulls is generally of a fine glossy black; but the +brush at the end of the cows' tails is always of a rusty brown, probably +owing to being stained with their urine. + +The hair of the body is soft and curled, somewhat approaching to wool; +it is generally of a sandy brown, and of an equal length and thickness +all over the body: but on the head and neck it is much longer than it is +on any other part. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +The Indians, after reducing all the parts of the skin to an equal +thickness by scraping, dress them in the hair for clothing; when they +are light, soft, warm, and durable. They also dress some of those skins +into leather without the hair, of which they make tents and shoes; but +the grain is remarkably open and spungy, by no means equal in goodness +to that of the skin of the moose: nor am I certain that the curriers or +tanners in Europe could manufacture these skins in such a manner as to +render them of any considerable value; for, to appearance, they are of +the same quality with the skins of the musk-ox, which are held in so +little estimation in England, that when a number of them was sent home +from Churchill Factory, the Company issued out orders the year +following, that unless they could be purchased from the Indians at the +rate of four {253} skins for one beaver, they would not answer the +expence of sending home; a great proof of their being of very little +value. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +The buffalos chiefly delight in wide open plains, which in those parts +produce very long coarse grass, or rather a kind of small flags and +rushes, upon which they feed; but when pursued they always take to the +woods. They are of such an amazing strength, that when they fly through +the woods from a pursuer, they frequently brush down trees as thick as a +man's arm; and be the snow ever so deep, such is their strength and +agility that they are enabled to plunge through it faster than the +swiftest Indian can run in snow-shoes. To this I have been an +eye-witness many times, and once had the vanity to think that I could +have kept pace with them; but though I was at that time celebrated for +being particularly fleet of foot in snow-shoes, I soon found that I was +no match for the buffalos, notwithstanding they were then plunging +through such deep snow, that their bellies made a trench in it as large +as if many heavy sacks had been hauled through it. Of all the large +beasts in those parts the buffalo is easiest to kill, and the moose are +the most difficult; neither are the deer very easy to come at, except in +windy weather: indeed it requires much practice, and a great deal of +patience, to slay any of them, as they will by no means suffer a direct +approach, unless the hunter be entirely sheltered by woods or willows. +The flesh of the buffalo {254} is exceedingly good eating; and so +entirely free from any disagreeable smell or taste, that it resembles +beef as nearly as possible: the flesh of the cows, when some time gone +with calf, is esteemed the finest; and the young calves, cut out of +their bellies, are reckoned a great delicacy indeed. The hunch on their +backs, or more properly on their shoulders, is not a large fleshy lump, +as some suppose, but is occasioned by the bones that form the withers +being continued to a greater length than in most other animals. The +flesh which surrounds this part being so equally intermixed with fat and +lean, is reckoned among the nicest bits. The weight, however, is by no +means equal to what has been commonly reported. The tongue is also very +delicate; and what is most extraordinary, when the beasts are in the +poorest state, which happens regularly at certain seasons, their tongues +are then very fat and fine; some say, fatter than when they are in the +best order; the truth of which, I will not confirm. They are so esteemed +here, however, that many of them are brought down to the Company's +Factory at York as presents, and are esteemed a great luxury, probably +for no other reason but that they are far-fetched; for they are by no +means so large, and I think them not so fine, as a neat's tongue in +England. + +The moose[105] deer is also a large beast, often exceeding the largest +horse both in height and bulk; but the length of the legs, the bulk of +the body, the shortness of the neck, {255} and the uncommon length of +the head and ears, without any appearance of a tail, make them have a +very awkward appearance. The males far exceed the females in size, and +differ from them in colour. The hair of the male, which is long, hollow, +and soft, like that of a deer, is at the points nearly black, but a +little way under the surface it is of an ash colour, and at the roots +perfectly white. The hair of the female is of a sandy brown, and in some +parts, particularly under the throat, the belly, and the flank, is +nearly white at the surface, and most delicately so at the root. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +Their legs are so long, and their necks so short, that they cannot graze +on level ground like other animals, but are obliged to brouze on the +tops of large plants and the leaves of trees during the Summer; and in +Winter they always feed on the tops of willows, and the small branches +of the birch-tree; on which account they are never found during that +season but in such places as can afford them a plentiful supply of their +favourite food: and though they have no fore-teeth in the upper-jaw, yet +I have often seen willows and small birch-trees cropped by them, in the +same manner as if they had been cut by a gardener's sheers, though some +of them were not smaller than common pipe-stems; they seem particularly +partial to the red willow. + +In Summer they are generally found to frequent the banks of rivers and +lakes, probably with no other view {256} than to have the benefit of +getting into the water, to avoid the innumerable multitudes of muskettos +and other flies that pester them exceedingly during that season. There +is also a variety of water-plants, of which the moose are very fond, and +which are adapted to their necessities in a peculiar manner during the +Summer season, as they can easily brouze on them when nearly emerged in +water, to avoid the torment of the flies. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +The head of the moose is, as I have observed, remarkably long and large, +not very unlike that of a horse; but the nose and nostrils are at least +twice as large. The ears are about a foot long, and large; and they +always stand erect. Their faculty of hearing is supposed to be more +acute than either their sight or scent; which makes it very difficult to +kill them, especially as the Indians in those parts have no other method +of doing it but by creeping after them, among the trees and bushes, till +they get within gun-shot; taking care always to keep to leeward of the +moose, for fear of being overheard. In Summer, when they frequent the +margins of rivers and lakes, they are often killed by the Indians in the +water, while they are crossing rivers, or swimming from the main to +islands, &c. When pursued in this manner, they are the most inoffensive +of all animals, never making any resistance; and the young ones are so +simple, that I remember to have seen an Indian paddle his canoe up to +one of them, and take it by the poll without the least opposition: the +poor {257} harmless animal seeming at the same time as contented +along-side the canoe, as if swimming by the side of its dam, and looking +up in our faces with the same fearless innocence that a house-lamb +would, making use of its fore-foot almost every instant to clear its +eyes of muskettos, which at that time were remarkably numerous. + +I have also seen women and boys kill the old moose in this situation, by +knocking them on the head with a hatchet; and in the Summer of one +thousand seven hundred and seventy-five, when I was on my passage from +Cumberland House to York Fort, two boys killed a fine buck moose in the +water, by forcing a stick up its fundament; for they had neither gun, +bow, nor arrows with them. The common deer are far more dangerous to +approach in canoes, as they kick up their hind legs with such violence +as to endanger any birch-rind canoe that comes within their reach; for +which reason all the Indians who kill deer upon the water are provided +with a long stick that will reach far beyond the head of the canoe. + +The moose are also the easiest to tame and domesticate of any of the +deer kind. I have repeatedly seen them at Churchill as tame as +sheep,[BD] and even more so; for they {258} would follow their keeper +any distance from home, and at his call return with him, without the +least trouble, or ever offering to deviate from the path.[BE] + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +The flesh of the moose is very good, though the grain is but coarse, and +it is much tougher than any other kind of venison. The nose is most +excellent, as is also the tongue, though by no means so fat and delicate +as that of the common deer. It is perhaps worth remarking, that the +livers of the moose are never found, not even at any time of the year; +and, like the other deer, they have no gall. The fat of the intestines +is hard, like suet; but all the external fat is soft, like that of a +breast of mutton, and when put into a bladder, is as fine as marrow. In +this they differ from all the other species of deer, of which the +external fat is as hard as that of the kidnies. + +{259} The moose in all their actions and attitudes appear very uncouth, +and when disturbed, never run, only make a kind of trot, which the +length of their legs enables them to do with great swiftness, and +apparently with much ease; but were the country they inhabit free from +under-wood, and dry underfoot, so that horsemen and dogs might follow +them, they would become an easy prey, as they are both tender-footed and +short-winded: But of this more hereafter.[BF] + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +The skins of the moose, when dressed by the natives, make excellent +tent-covers and shoe-leather; and in fact every other part of their +clothing. These, like the skins of the buffalo, are of very unequal +thickness. Some of the Indian women, who are acquainted with the +manufacture of them, will, by means of scraping, render them as even as +a piece of thick cloth, and when well dressed they are very soft; but +not being dressed in oil, they always grow hard after being wet, unless +great care be taken to keep rubbing them all the time they are drying. +The same may be said of all the Indian-dressed leather, except that of +the wewaskish,[106] which will wash as well as shammoy-leather, and +always preserve its softness. + +{260} The female moose never have any horns, but the males have them of +a prodigious size and weight, and very different in shape from those of +the common deer. The extremity of each horn is palmated to the size of a +common shovel, from which a few short branches shoot out; and the shaft +of the horn is frequently as large as a common man's wrist. They shed +them annually like the common deer. The horns of the moose are +frequently found to exceed sixty pounds weight; and their texture, +though of a large size and of such rapid growth, is much harder than any +other species of deer-horns in those parts. + +Though the flesh of the moose is esteemed by most Indians both for its +flavour and substance, yet the Northern Indians of my crew did not +reckon either it or the flesh of the buffalo substantial food. This I +should think entirely proceeded from prejudice, especially with respect +to the moose; but the flesh of the buffalo, though so fine to the eye, +and pleasing to the taste, is so light and easy of digestion, as not to +be deemed substantial food by any Indian in this country, either +Northern or Southern. The moose have from one to three young at a time, +and generally bring them forth in the latter end of April, or beginning +of May. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January. 11th.] + +Soon after our arrival on the South-side of Athapuscow Lake, Matonabbee +proposed continuing our course in the {261} South West quarter, in hopes +of meeting some of the Athapuscow Indians; because I wished, if +possible, to purchase a tent, and other ready-dressed skins from them; +as a supply of those articles would at this time have been of material +service to us, being in great want both of tents and shoe-leather: and +though my companions were daily killing either moose or buffalo, the +weather was so excessively cold, as to render dressing their skins not +only very troublesome, but almost impracticable, especially to the +generality of the Northern Indians, who are not well acquainted with the +manufacture of that kind of leather. + +To dress those skins according to the Indian method, a lather is made of +the brains and some of the softest fat or marrow of the animal, in which +the skin is well soaked, when it is taken out, and not only dried by the +heat of a fire, but hung up in the smoke for several days; it is then +taken down, and well soaked and washed in warm water, till the grain of +the skin is perfectly open, and has imbibed a sufficient quantity of +water, after which it is taken out and wrung as dry as possible, and +then dried by the heat of a slow fire; care being taken to rub and +stretch it as long as any moisture remains in the skin. By this simple +method, and by scraping them afterwards, some of the moose skins are +made very delicate both to the eye and the touch. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +{262} On the eleventh of January, as some of my companions were hunting, +they saw the track of a strange snow-shoe, which they followed; and at a +considerable distance came to a little hut, where they discovered a +young woman sitting alone. As they found that she understood their +language, they brought her with them to the tents. On examination, she +proved to be one of the Western Dog-ribbed Indians, who had been taken +prisoner by the Athapuscow Indians in the Summer of one thousand seven +hundred and seventy; and in the following Summer, when the Indians that +took her prisoner were near this part, she had eloped from them, with an +intent to return to her own country; but the distance being so great, +and having, after she was taken prisoner, been carried in a canoe the +whole way, the turnings and windings of the rivers and lakes were so +numerous, that she forgot the track; so she built the hut in which we +found her, to protect her from the weather during the Winter, and here +she had resided from the first setting in of the fall. + +From her account of the moons passed since her elopement, it appeared +that she had been near seven months without seeing a human face; during +all which time she had supported herself very well by snaring +partridges, rabbits, and squirrels; she had also killed two or three +beaver, and some porcupines. That she did not seem to have been in want +is evident, as she had a small stock of {263} provisions by her when she +was discovered; and was in good health and condition, and I think one of +the finest women, of a real Indian, that I have seen in any part of +North America. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +The methods practised by this poor creature to procure a livelihood were +truly admirable, and are great proofs that necessity is the real mother +of invention. When the few deer-sinews that she had an opportunity of +taking with her were all expended in making snares, and sewing her +clothing, she had nothing to supply their place but the sinews of the +rabbits legs and feet; these she twisted together for that purpose with +great dexterity and success. The rabbits, &c. which she caught in those +snares, not only furnished her with a comfortable subsistence, but of +the skins she made a suit of neat and warm clothing for the Winter. It +is scarcely possible to conceive that a person in her forlorn situation +could be so composed as to be capable of contriving or executing any +thing that was not absolutely necessary to her existence; but there were +sufficient proofs that she had extended her care much farther, as all +her clothing, beside being calculated for real service, shewed great +taste, and exhibited no little variety of ornament. The materials, +though rude, were very curiously wrought, and so judiciously placed, as +to make the whole of her garb have a very pleasing, though rather +romantic appearance. + +{264} Her leisure hours from hunting had been employed in twisting the +inner rind or bark of willows into small lines, like net-twine, of which +she had some hundred fathoms by her; with this she intended to make a +fishing-net as soon as the Spring advanced. It is of the inner bark of +willows, twisted in this manner, that the Dog-ribbed Indians make their +fishing-nets; and they are much preferable to those made by the Northern +Indians.[BG] + +Five or six inches of an iron hoop, made into a knife, and the shank of +an arrow-head of iron, which served her as an awl, were all the metals +this poor woman had with her when she eloped; and with these implements +she had made herself complete snow-shoes, and several other useful +articles. + +Her method of making a fire was equally singular and curious, having no +other materials for that purpose than two hard sulphurous stones. These, +by long friction and hard knocking, produced a few sparks, which at +length communicated to some touchwood; but as this method was attended +with great trouble, and not always with success, she did {265} not +suffer her fire to go out all the Winter. Hence we may conclude that she +had no idea of producing fire by friction, in the manner practised by +the Esquimaux, and many other uncivilized nations; because if she had, +the above-mentioned precaution would have been unnecessary. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +The singularity of the circumstance, the comeliness of her person, and +her approved accomplishments, occasioned a strong contest between +several of the Indians of my party, who should have her for a wife; and +the poor girl was actually won and lost at wrestling by near half a +score different men the same evening. My guide, Matonabbee, who at that +time had no less than seven wives, all women grown, besides a young girl +of eleven or twelve years old, would have put in for the prize also, had +not one of his wives made him ashamed of it, by telling him that he had +already more wives than he could properly attend. This piece of satire, +however true, proved fatal to the poor girl who dared to make so open a +declaration; for the great man, Matonabbee, who would willingly have +been thought equal to eight or ten men in every respect, took it as such +an affront, that he fell on her with both hands and feet, and bruised +her to such a degree, that after lingering some time she died. + +When the Athapuscow Indians took the above Dog-ribbed Indian woman +prisoner, they, according to the universal custom of those savages, +surprised her and her party in {266} the night, and killed every soul in +the tent, except herself and three other young women. Among those whom +they killed, were her father, mother, and husband. Her young child, four +or five months old, she concealed in a bundle of clothing, and took with +her undiscovered in the night; but when she arrived at the place where +the Athapuscow Indians had left their wives (which was not far distant), +they began to examine her bundle, and finding the child, one of the +women took it from her, and killed it on the spot. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +This last piece of barbarity gave her such a disgust to those Indians, +that notwithstanding the man who took care of her treated her in every +respect as his wife, and was, she said, remarkably kind to, and even +fond of her; so far was she from being able to reconcile herself to any +of the tribe, that she rather chose to expose herself to misery and +want, than live in ease and affluence among persons who had so cruelly +murdered her infant.[BH] The {267} poor woman's relation of this +shocking story, which she delivered in a very affecting manner, only +excited laughter among the savages of my party. + +In a conversation with this woman soon afterward, she told us, that her +country lies so far to the Westward, that she had never seen iron, or +any other kind of metal, till she was taken prisoner. All of her tribe, +she observed, made their hatchets and ice-chisels of deer's horns, and +their knives of stones and bones; that their arrows were shod with a +kind of slate, bones, and deer's horns; and the instruments which they +employed to make their wood-work were nothing but beavers' teeth. Though +they had frequently heard of the useful materials which the nations or +tribes to the East of them were supplied with from the English, so far +were they from drawing nearer, to be in the way of trading for +iron-work, &c. that they were obliged to retreat farther back, to avoid +the Athapuscow Indians, who made surprising slaughter among them, both +in Winter and Summer. + +[Sidenote: 16th.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +On the sixteenth, as we were continuing our course in the South West +quarter, we arrived at the grand {268} Athapuscow River,[107] which at +that part is about two miles wide, and empties itself into the great +lake of the same name we had so lately crossed, and which has been +already described. + +The woods about this river, particularly the pines and poplars, are the +tallest and stoutest I have seen in any part of North America. The birch +also grows to a considerable size, and some species of the willow are +likewise tall: but none of them have any trunk, like those in England. + +The bank of the river in most parts is very high, and in some places not +less than a hundred feet above the ordinary surface of the water. As the +soil is of a loamy quality, it is very subject to moulder or wash away +by heavy rains, even during the short Summer allotted to this part of +the globe. The breaking up of the ice in the Spring is annually attended +with a great deluge, when, I am told, it is not uncommon to see whole +points of land washed away by the inundations; and as the wood grows +close to the edge of the banks, vast quantities of it are hurried down +the stream by the irresistible force of the water and ice, and conveyed +into the great lake already mentioned; on the shores and islands of +which, there lies the greatest quantity of drift wood I ever saw. Some +of this wood is large enough to make masts for the largest ships that +are built. The banks of the river in general are so steep as to be +inaccessible to either man or beast, except in some slacks, or gulleys, +that have been wore down by heavy rains, {269} backwaters, or deluges; +and even those slacks are, for the most part, very difficult to ascend, +on account of the number of large trees which lie in the way. + +There are several low islands in this river, which are much frequented +by the moose, for the sake of the fine willows they produce, which +furnish them with a plentiful supply of their favourite food during the +Winter. Some of those islands are also frequented by a number of +rabbits; but as larger game could be procured in great plenty, those +small animals were not deemed worthy our notice at present. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +Beside the grand river already mentioned, there are several others of +less note, which empty themselves into the great Athapuscow Lake: There +are also several small rivers and creeks on the North East side of the +Lake that carry off the superfluous waters, some of which, after a +variety of windings through the barren grounds to the North of Churchill +River, are lost in the marshes and low grounds, while others, by means +of many small channels and rivulets, are discharged into other rivers +and lakes, and at last, doubtless, find their way into Hudson's Bay. +These rivers, though numberless, are all so full of shoals and stones, +as not to be navigable for an Indian canoe to any considerable distance; +and if they were, it would be of little or no use to the natives, as +none of them lead within several hundred miles of Churchill River. + +{270} Agreeably to Matonabbee's proposal, we continued our course up the +Athapuscow River for many days, and though we passed several parts which +we well knew to have been the former Winter-haunts of the Athapuscow +Indians, yet we could not see the least trace of any of them having been +there that season. In the preceding Summer, when they were in those +parts, they had set fire to the woods; and though many months had +elapsed from that time till our arrival there, and notwithstanding the +snow was then very deep, the moss was still burning in many places, +which at first deceived us very much, as we took it for the smoke of +strange tents; but after going much out of our way, and searching very +diligently, we could not discover the least track of a stranger. + +[Sidenote: 27th.] + +Thus disappointed in our expectations of meeting the Southern Indians, +it was resolved (in Council, as it may be called) to expend as much time +in hunting buffalo, moose, and beaver as we could, so that we might be +able to reach Prince of Wales's Fort a little before the usual time of +the ships arrival from England. Accordingly, after having walked upwards +of forty miles by the side of Athapuscow River, on the twenty-seventh of +January we struck off to the Eastward, and left the River at that part +where it begins to tend due South. + +[Sidenote: 1772. January.] + +In consequence of this determination of the Indians, we continued our +course to the Eastward; but as game of all kinds was very plentiful, we +made but short days {271} journies, and often remained two or three days +in one place, to eat up the spoils or produce of the chace. The woods +through which we were to pass were in many places so thick, that it was +necessary to cut a path before the women could pass with their sledges; +and in other places so much of the woods had formerly been set on fire +and burnt, that we were frequently obliged to walk farther than we +otherwise should have done, before we could find green brush enough to +floor our tents. + +[Sidenote: February. 15th-24th.] + +From the fifteenth to the twenty-fourth of February, we walked along a +small river that empties itself into the Lake Clowey,[108] near the part +where we built canoes in May one thousand seven hundred and seventy-one. +This little river is that which we mentioned in the former part of this +Journal, as having communication with the Athapuscow Lake: but, from +appearances, it is of no consequence whence it takes its rise, or where +it empties itself, as one half of it is nearly dry three-fourths of the +year. The intervening ponds, however, having sufficient depth of water, +are, we may suppose, favourable situations for beaver, as many of their +houses are to be found in those parts. + +[Sidenote: 24th.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. February.] + +On the twenty-fourth, a strange Northern Indian leader, called +Thlew-sa-nell-ie, and several of his followers, joined us from the +Eastward. This leader presented Matonabbee and myself with a foot of +tobacco each, and a two-quart {272} keg of brandy, which he intended as +a present for the Southern Indians; but being informed by my companions, +that there was not the least probability of meeting any, he did not +think it worth any farther carriage. The tobacco was indeed very +acceptable, as our stock of that article had been expended some time. +Having been so long without tasting spirituous liquors, I would not +partake of the brandy, but left it entirely to the Indians, to whom, as +they were numerous, it was scarcely a taste for each. Few of the +Northern Indians are fond of spirits, especially those who keep at a +distance from the Fort: some who are near, and who usually shoot geese +for us in the Spring, will drink it at free cost as fast as the Southern +Indians, but few of them are ever so imprudent as to buy it. + +The little river lately mentioned, as well as the adjacent lakes and +ponds, being well-stocked with beaver, and the land abounding with moose +and buffalo, we were induced to make but slow progress in our journey. +Many days were spent in hunting, feasting, and drying a large quantity +of flesh to take with us, particularly that of the buffalo; for my +companions knew by experience, that a few days walk to the Eastward of +our present situation would bring us to a part where we should not see +any of those animals. + +The strangers who had joined us on the twenty-fourth informed us, that +all were well at Prince of Wales's Fort {273} when they left it last; +which, according to their account of the Moons past since, must have +been about the fifth of November one thousand seven hundred and +seventy-one. These strangers only remained in our company one night +before the Leader and part of his crew left us, and proceeded on their +journey to the North Westward; but a few of them having procured some +furrs in the early part of the Winter, joined our party, with an intent +to accompany us to the Factory. + +[Sidenote: 28th.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. February.] + +Having a good stock of dried meat, fat, &c. prepared in the best manner +for carriage, on the twenty-eighth we shaped our course in the South +East quarter, and proceeded at a much greater rate than we had lately +done, as little or no time was now lost in hunting. The next day we saw +the tracks of some strangers; and though I did not perceive any of them +myself, some of my companions were at the trouble of searching for them, +and finding them to be poor inoffensive people, plundered them not only +of the few furrs which they had, but took also one of their young women +from them. + +Every additional act of violence committed by my companions on the poor +and distressed, served to increase my indignation and dislike; this last +act, however, displeased me more than all their former actions, because +it was committed on a set of harmless creatures, whose general manner of +life renders them the most secluded from society of any of the human +race. + +[Sidenote: 1772. February.] + +{274} Matonabbee assured me, that for more than a generation past one +family only, as it may be called, (and to which the young men belonged +who were plundered by my companions,) have taken up their Winter abode +in those woods,[109] which are situated so far on the barren ground as +to be quite out of the track of any other Indians. From the best +accounts that I could collect, the latitude of this place must be about +631/2 deg. or 63 deg. at least; the longitude is very uncertain. From my own +experience I can affirm, that it is some hundreds of miles both from the +sea-side and the main woods to the Westward. Few of the trading Northern +Indians have visited this place; but those who have, give a pleasing +description of it, all agreeing that it is situated on the banks of a +river which has communication with several fine lakes. As the current +sets to the North Eastward, it empties itself, in all probability, into +some part of Hudson's Bay; and, from the latitude, no part seems more +likely for this communication, than Baker's Lake, at the head of +Chesterfield's inlet. This, however, is mere conjecture; nor is it of +any consequence, as navigation on any of the rivers in those parts is +not only impracticable, but would be also unprofitable, as they do not +lead into a country that produces any thing for trade, or that contains +any inhabitants worth visiting. + +The accounts given of this place, and the manner of life of its +inhabitants, would, if related at full length, fill a volume: let it +suffice to observe, that the situation {275} is said to be remarkably +favourable for every kind of game that the barren ground produces at the +different seasons of the year; but the continuance of the game with them +is in general uncertain, except that of fish and partridges. That being +the case, the few who compose this little commonwealth, are, by long +custom and the constant example of their forefathers, possessed of a +provident turn of mind, with a degree of frugality unknown to every +other tribe of Indians in this country except the Esquimaux. + +[Sidenote: 1772. February.] + +Deer is said to visit this part of the country in astonishing numbers, +both in Spring and Autumn, of which circumstances the inhabitants avail +themselves, by killing and drying as much of their flesh as possible, +particularly in the fall of the year; so that they seldom are in want +of a good Winter's stock. + +Geese, ducks, and swans visit here in great plenty during their +migrations both in the Spring and Fall, and by much art, joined to an +insurmountable patience, are caught in considerable numbers in +snares,[BI] and, {276} without doubt, make a very pleasing change in the +food. It is also reported, (though I confess I doubt the truth of it,) +{277} that a remarkable species of partridges as large as English fowls, +are found in that part of the country only. Those, as well as the common +partridges, it is said, are killed in considerable numbers, with snares, +as well as with bows and arrows. + +[Sidenote: 1772. February.] + +The river and lakes near the little forest where the family above +mentioned had fixed their abode, abound with fine fish, particularly +trout and barble, which are easily caught; the former with hooks, and +the latter in nets. In fact, I have not seen or heard of any part of +this country which seems to possess half the advantages requisite for a +constant residence, that are ascribed to this little spot. The +descendents, however, of the present inhabitants must in time evacuate +it for want of wood, which is of so slow a growth in those regions, that +what is used in one year, exclusive of what is cut down and carried away +by the Esquimaux, must cost many years to replace. + +[Sidenote: 1772. March.] + +It may probably be thought strange that any part of a community, +apparently so commodiously situated, and happy within themselves, should +be found at so great a distance from the rest of their tribe, and indeed +nothing but necessity could possibly have urged them to undertake a +journey of so many hundred miles as they have done; but no situation is +without its inconveniences, and as their woods contain no birch-trees of +sufficient size, or perhaps none of any size, this party had come so far +to the {278} Westward to procure birch-rind for making two canoes, and +some of the fungus that grows on the outside of the birch-tree, which is +used by all the Indians in those parts for tinder. There are two sorts +of these funguses which grow on the birch-trees; one is hard, the useful +part of which much resembles rhubarb; the other is soft and smooth like +velvet on the outside, and when laid on hot ashes for some time, and +well beaten between two stones, is something like spunk. The former is +called by the Northern Indians Jolt-thee, and is known all over the +country bordering on Hudson's Bay by the name of Pesogan,[BJ] it being +so called by the Southern {279} Indians. The latter is only used by the +Northern tribes, and is called by them Clalte-ad-dee. + +[Sidenote: 1st.] + +By the first of March we began to leave the fine level country of the +Athapuscows, and again to approach the stony mountains or hills which +bound the Northern Indian country. Moose and beaver still continued to +be plentiful; but no buffaloes could be seen after the twenty-ninth of +February. + +[Sidenote: 14th.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. March.] + +As we were continuing our course to the East South East, on the +fourteenth we discovered the tracks of more strangers, and the next day +came up with them. Among those Indians was the man who had carried a +letter for me in March one thousand seven hundred and seventy-one, to +the Chief at Prince of Wales's Fort, and to which he had brought an +answer, dated the twenty-first of June. When this Indian received the +letter from me, it was very uncertain what route we should take in our +return from the Copper River, and, in all probability, he himself had +not then determined on what spot he would pass the present Winter; +consequently our meeting each other was merely accidental. + +These Indians having obtained a few furrs in the course of the Winter, +joined our party, which now consisted of twenty tents, containing in the +whole about two {280} hundred persons; and indeed our company had not +been much less during the whole Winter. + +From the strangers who last joined us we received some ready-dressed +moose-skins for tenting and shoe-leather; also some other skins for +clothing, for all of which the Chief at the Factory was to pay on our +arrival. + +I cannot sufficiently lament the loss of my quadrant, as the want of it +must render the course of my journey from Point Lake, where it was +broken, very uncertain; and my watch stopping while I was at the +Athapuscow Lake, has contributed greatly to the misfortune, as I am now +deprived of every means of estimating the distances which we walked with +any degree of accuracy, particularly in thick weather, when the Sun +could not be seen. + +[Sidenote: 16th.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. March.] + +The Indians were employed at all convenient times in procuring +birch-rind and making wood-work ready for building canoes; also in +preparing small staffs of birch-wood, to take with them on the barren +ground, to serve as tent-poles all the Summer; and which, as hath been +already observed, they convert into snow-shoe frames when the Winter +sets in. Here it may be proper to observe, that none of those incidental +avocations interfere with, or retard the Indians in their journey; for +they always take the advantage of every {281} opportunity which offers, +as they pass along, and when they see a tree fit for their purpose, cut +it down, and either strip off the bark, if that be what they want, or +split the trunk in pieces; and after hewing it roughly with their +hatchet, carry it to the tent, where in the evenings, or in the morning +before they set out, they reduce it with their knives to the shape and +size which is required. + +[Sidenote: 19th.] + +Provisions being plentiful, and the weather fine, we advanced a little +each day; and on the nineteenth took up our lodgings by the side of +Wholdyeah-chuck'd Whoie, or Large Pike Lake. In our way we crossed +another small lake, where we caught some trout by angling, and killed a +few deer and one moose. + +[Sidenote: 20th.] + +On the twentieth we crossed Large Pike Lake, which at that part was not +more than seven miles wide; but from North North West to the South South +East is much longer. The next day we arrived at Bedodid Lake,[111] which +in general is not more than three miles wide, and in several places much +less; but it is upward of forty miles long, which gives it the +appearance of a river. It is said by the Indians to be shut up on all +sides, and entirely surrounded with high land, which produces vast +quantity of fir trees, but none of them grow to a great height in those +parts: their branches, however, spread wider than those of firs of three +times their height and thickness do in Europe; so that they resemble an +apple-tree in shape, {282} more than any species of the pine. They seem +rich in tar, as the wood of them will burn like a candle, and emit as +strong a smell, and as much black smoke, as the staves of an old +tar-barrel; for which reason no Indians chuse to burn it in their tents, +or even out of doors, for the purpose of cooking their victuals. + +[Sidenote: 1772. March.] + +The thaws began now to be very considerable, and the under-woods were so +thick in these parts as to render travelling through them very +difficult; we therefore took the advantage of walking on the ice of the +above-mentioned Lake, which lay nearly in the direction of our course; +but after proceeding about twenty-two miles on it, the Lake turned more +toward the North, on which account we were obliged to leave it, striking +off to the Eastward; and after walking fourteen miles farther, we +arrived at Noo-shetht Whoie,[112] or the Hill-Island Lake, so called +from a very high island which stands in it. + +[Sidenote: 31st.] + +From the twenty-eighth to the thirty-first of March, we had so hard a +gale of wind from the South, as to render walking on lakes or open +plains quite impossible, and the violence with which the trees were +blown down made walking in the woods somewhat dangerous; but though +several had narrow escapes, no accident happened. + +[Sidenote: April. 1st.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. April.] + +From the middle to the latter end of March, and in the beginning of +April, though the thaw was not general, {283} yet in the middle of the +day it was very considerable: it commonly froze hard in the nights; and +the young men took the advantage of the mornings, when the snow was hard +crusted over, and ran down many moose; for in those situations a man +with a good pair of snow-shoes will scarcely make any impression on the +snow, while the moose, and even the deer, will break through it at every +step up to the belly. Notwithstanding this, however, it is very seldom +that the Indians attempt to run deer down. The moose are so +tender-footed, and so short-winded, that a good runner will generally +tire them in less than a day, and very frequently in six or eight hours; +though I have known some of the Indians continue the chace for two days, +before they could come up with, and kill the game. On those occasions +the Indians, in general, only take with them a knife or bayonet, and a +little bag containing a set of fire-tackle, and are as lightly clothed +as possible; some of them will carry a bow and two or three arrows, but +I never knew any of them take a gun unless such as had been blown or +bursted, and the barrels cut quite short, which, when reduced to the +least possible size to be capable of doing any service, must be too +great a weight for a man to run with in his hand for so many hours +together. + +When the poor moose are incapable of making farther speed, they stand +and keep their pursuers at bay with {284} their head and fore-feet; in +the use of which they are very dexterous, especially the latter; so that +the Indians who have neither a bow nor arrows, nor a short gun, with +them, are generally obliged to lash their knives or bayonets to the end +of a long stick, and stab the moose at a distance. For want of this +necessary precaution, some of the boys and fool-hardy young men, who +have attempted to rush in upon them, have frequently received such +unlucky blows from their fore-feet, as to render their recovery very +doubtful. + +The flesh of the moose, thus killed, is far from being well-tasted, and +I should think must be very unwholesome, from being over-heated; as by +running so many hours together, the animal must have been in a violent +fever; the flesh being soft and clammy, must have a very disagreeable +taste, neither resembling fish, flesh, nor fowl.[BK] + +The Southern Indians use dogs for this kind of hunting, which makes it +easier and more expeditious; but the Northern tribes having no dogs +trained to that exercise, are under the necessity of doing it +themselves. + +[Sidenote: 1772. April. 7th.] + +{285} On the seventh we crossed a part of Thee-lee-aza River: at which +time the small Northern deer were remarkably plentiful, but the moose +began to be very scarce, as none were killed after the third. + +[Sidenote: 12th.] + +On the twelfth, we saw several swans flying to the Northward; they were +the first birds of passage we had seen that Spring, except a few +snow-birds, which always precede the migrating birds, and consequently +are with much propriety called the harbingers of Spring. The swans also +precede all the other species of water-fowl, and migrate so early in the +season, that they find no open water but at the falls of rivers, where +they are readily met, and sometimes shot, in considerable numbers. + +[Sidenote: 14th.] + +On the fourteenth, we arrived at another part of Thee-lee-aza +River,[113] and pitched our tents not far from some families of strange +Northern Indians, who had been there some time snaring deer, and who +were all so poor as not to have one gun among them. + +[Sidenote: 1772. April.] + +The villains belonging to my crew were so far from administering to +their relief, that they robbed them of almost every useful article in +their possession; and to complete their cruelty, the men joined +themselves in parties of six, eight, or ten in a gang, and dragged +several of their young women to a little distance from their tents, +{286} where they not only ravished them, but otherwise ill-treated them, +and that in so barbarous a manner, as to endanger the lives of one or +two of them. Humanity on this, as well as on several other similar +occasions during my residence among those wretches, prompted me to +upbraid them with their barbarity; but so far were my remonstrances from +having the desired effect, that they afterwards made no scruple of +telling me in the plainest terms, that if any female relation of mine +had been there, she should have been served in the same manner. + +Deer being plentiful, we remained at this place ten days, in order to +dry and prepare a quantity of the flesh and fat to carry with us; as +this was the last time the Indians expected to see such plenty until +they met them again on the barren ground. During our stay here, the +Indians completed the wood-work for their canoes, and procured all their +Summer tent-poles, &c.; and while we were employed in this necessary +business, the thaw was so great that the bare ground began to appear in +many places, and the ice in the rivers, where the water was shallow and +the current rapid, began to break up; so that we were in daily +expectation of seeing geese, ducks, and other birds of passage. + +[Sidenote: 25th.] + +On the twenty-fifth, the weather being cool and favourable for +travelling, we once more set out, and that {287} day walked twenty miles +to the Eastward; as some of the women had not joined us, we did not move +on the two following days. + +[Sidenote: 28th.] + +On the twenty-eighth, having once more mustered all our forces, early in +the morning we set out, and the next day passed by Thleweyaza Yeth,[114] +the place at which we had prepared wood-work for canoes in the Spring +one thousand seven hundred and seventy-one. + +[Sidenote: May. 1st.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. May.] + +As the morning of the first of May was exceedingly fine and pleasant, +with a light air from the South, and a great thaw, we walked eight or +nine miles to the East by North, when a heavy fall of snow came on, +which was followed, or indeed more properly accompanied, by a hard gale +of wind from the North West. At the time the bad weather began, we were +on the top of a high barren hill, a considerable distance from any +woods; judging it to be no more than a squall, we sat down, in +expectation of its soon passing by. As the night, however, advanced, the +gale increased to such a degree, that it was impossible for a man to +stand upright; so that we were obliged to lie down, without any other +defence against the weather, than putting our sledges and other lumber +to windward of us, which in reality was of no real service, as it only +harboured a great drift of snow, with which in some places we were +covered to the depth of two or three feet; and as the night was not very +cold, I found myself, {288} and many others who were with me, long +before morning in a puddle of water, occasioned by the heat of our +bodies melting the snow. + +[Sidenote: 2d.] + +[Sidenote: 3d.] + +The second proved fine pleasant weather, with warm sunshine. In the +morning, having dried all our clothing, we proceeded on our journey. In +the afternoon we arrived at the part at which my guide intended we +should build our canoes; but having had some difference with his +countrymen, he altered his mind, and determined to proceed to the +Eastward, as long as the season would permit, before he attempted to +perform that duty. Accordingly, on the third, we pursued our way, and as +that and the following day were very cold, which made us walk briskly, +we were enabled to make good days' journies; but the fifth was so hot +and sultry, that we only walked about thirteen miles in our old course +to the East by North, and then halted about three-quarters of a mile to +the South of Black Bear Hill;[115] a place which I had seen in the +Spring of one thousand seven hundred and seventy-one. + +[Sidenote: 6th.] + +On the sixth, the weather was equally hot with the preceding day; in the +morning, however, we moved on eleven miles to the East, and then met +several strange Indians, who informed us that a few others, who had a +tolerable cargo of furrs, and were going to the Factory that Summer, +were not far distant. + +[Sidenote: 1772. May.] + +{289} On receiving this intelligence, my guide, Matonabbee, sent a +messenger to desire their company. This was soon complied with, as it is +an universal practice with the Indian Leaders, both Northern and +Southern, when going to the Company's Factory, to use their influence +and interest in canvassing for companions; as they find by experience +that a large gang gains them much respect. Indeed, the generality of +Europeans who reside in those parts, being utterly unacquainted with the +manners and customs of the Indians, have conceived so high an opinion of +those Leaders, and their authority, as to imagine that all who accompany +them on those occasions are entirely devoted to their service and +command all the year; but this is so far from being the case, that the +authority of those great men, when absent from the Company's Factory, +never extends beyond their own family; and the trifling respect which is +shown them by their countrymen during their residence at the Factory, +proceeds only from motives of interest. + +[Sidenote: 1772. May.] + +The Leaders have a very disagreeable task to perform on those occasions; +for they are not only obliged to be the mouthpiece, but the beggars for +all their friends and relations for whom they have a regard, as well as +for those whom at other times they have reason to fear. Those unwelcome +commissions, which are imposed on them by their followers, joined to +their own desire of being thought men of great consequence and interest +with the English, {290} make them very troublesome. And if a Governor +deny them any thing which they ask, though it be only to give away to +the most worthless of their gang, they immediately turn sulky and +impertinent to the highest degree; and however rational they may be at +other times, are immediately divested of every degree of reason, and +raise their demands to so exorbitant a pitch, that after they have +received to the amount of five times the value of all the furrs they +themselves have brought, they never cease begging during their stay at +the Factory; and, after all, few of them go away thoroughly +satisfied.[BL] + +[Sidenote: 1772. May. 11th.] + +{291} After stopping four days at this place, Matonabbee, and all the +Indians who were to accompany me to the Fort, agreed to leave the +elderly people and young children here, in the care of some Indians who +were capable of providing for them, and who had orders to proceed to a +place called Cathawhachaga, on the barren grounds, and there wait the +return of their relations from the Factory. Matters of this kind being +settled, apparently to the entire satisfaction of all parties, we +resumed our journey on the eleventh of May, and that at a much brisker +pace than we could probably have done when all the old people and young +children were with us. In the afternoon of the same day we met some +other Northern Indians, who were also going to the Fort with furrs; +those joined our party, and at night we all pitched our tents by the +side of a river that empties itself into Doo-baunt Lake. This day all of +us threw away our snow-shoes, as the ground was so bare in most places +as not to require any such assistance; but sledges were occasionally +serviceable for some time, particularly when we walked on the ice of +rivers or lakes. + +[Sidenote: 12th.] + +[Sidenote: 18th.] + +{292} The weather on the twelfth was so exceedingly hot and sultry, and +the water so deep on the top of the ice of the above-mentioned river, as +to render walking on it not only very troublesome, but dangerous; so +after advancing about five miles we pitched our tents, and the warm +weather being likely to continue, the Indians immediately began to build +their canoes, which were completed with such expedition, that in the +afternoon of the eighteenth we again set forward on our journey, but the +day being pretty far spent, we only walked about four miles, and put up +for the night. + +[Sidenote: 19th.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. May.] + +The morning of the nineteenth was fine pleasant weather; and as all the +water was drained off from the top of the ice, it rendered walking on it +both safe and easy; accordingly we set out pretty early, and that day +walked upwards of twenty miles to the East North East on the +above-mentioned river.[116] The next day proved so cold, that after +walking about fifteen miles, we were obliged to put up; for having left +Doo-baunt River, we were frequently obliged to wade above the knees +through swamps of mud, water, and wet snow; which froze to our stockings +and shoes in such a thick crust, as not only rendered walking very +laborious, but at the same time subjected us to the danger of having our +legs and feet frozen. + +[Sidenote: 21st.] + +The weather on the twenty-first was more severe than on the preceding +day; but the swamps and ponds being {293} by that time frozen over, it +was tolerable walking: we proceeded therefore on our journey, but the +wind blew so fresh, that we had not walked sixteen miles, before we +found that those who carried the canoes could not possibly keep up with +us, so that we put up for the night. In the course of this day's journey +we crossed the North West Bay of Wholdyah'd Lake; which, at that part, +is called by the Northern Indians A Naw-nee-tha'd Whoie.[117] This day +several of the Indians turned back, not being able to proceed for want +of provisions. Game of all kinds indeed were so scarce, that, except a +few geese, nothing had been killed by any of our party, from our leaving +the women and children on the eleventh instant, nor had we seen one deer +the whole way. + +[Sidenote: 22d.] + +The twenty-second proved more moderate, when all our party having +joined, we again advanced to the North East, and after walking about +thirteen miles, the Indians killed four deer. Our number, however, had +now so increased, that four small Northern deer would scarcely afford us +all a single meal. + +[Sidenote: 23d.] + +[Sidenote: 25th.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. May.] + +The next day we continued our journey, generally walking in the North +East quarter; and on the twenty-fifth, crossed the North bay of +They-hole-kye'd Whoie, or Snow-bird Lake; and at night got clear of all +woods, and lay on the barren ground. The same day several of the Indians +struck off another way, not being able to {294} proceed to the Fort for +want of ammunition. As we had for some days past made good journies, and +at the same time were all heavy-laden, and in great distress for +provisions, some of my companions were so weak as to be obliged to leave +their bundles of furrs;[BM] and many others were so reduced as to be no +longer capable of proceeding with us, having neither guns nor +ammunition; so that their whole dependence for support was on the fish +they might be able to catch; and though fish was pretty plentiful in +most of the rivers and lakes hereabout, yet they were not always to be +depended on for such an immediate supply of food as those poor people +required. + +Though I had at this time a sufficient stock of ammunition to serve me +and all my proper companions to the Fort, yet self-preservation being +the first law of Nature, it was thought advisable to reserve the +greatest part of it for our own use; especially as geese and other +smaller birds were the only game now to be met with, and which, in times +of scarcity, bears hard on the articles of powder and shot. Indeed most +of the Indians who actually accompanied me the whole way to the Factory +had some little ammunition remaining, which enabled them to travel in +times of real scarcity better than those whom we left behind; and though +{295} we assisted many of them, yet several of their women died for +want. It is a melancholy truth, and a disgrace to the little humanity of +which those people are possessed, to think, that in times of want the +poor women always come off short; and when real distress approaches, +many of them are permitted to starve, when the males are amply provided +for. + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. B. Tyrrell, December 5, 1894._ +WOODS OF SPRUCE AND LARCH, SOUTH-WEST OF CHURCHILL] + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. B. Tyrrell, August 2, 1893._ +STONY SURFACE OF BARREN LANDS BESIDE DUBAWNT RIVER] + +[Sidenote: 1772. May. 26th.] + +The twenty-sixth was fine and pleasant. In the morning we set out as +usual, and after walking about five miles, the Indians killed three +deer; as our numbers were greatly lessened, these served us for two or +three meals, at a small expence of ammunition. + +[Sidenote: 30th.] + +[Sidenote: June. 3d.] + +In continuing our course to the Eastward, we crossed Cathawhachaga +River, on the thirtieth of May,[118] on the ice, which broke up soon +after the last person had crossed it. We had not been long on the East +side of the river before we perceived bad weather near at hand, and +began to make every preparation for it which our situation would admit, +and that was but very indifferent, being on entire barren ground. It is +true, we had complete sets of Summer tent-poles, and such tent-cloths as +are generally used by the Northern Indians in that season; these were +arranged in the best manner, and in such places as were most likely to +afford us shelter from the threatening storm. The rain soon began to +descend in such torrents as to make the river overflow to such a degree +as soon to convert our first {296} place of retreat into an open sea, +and oblige us in the middle of the night to assemble at the top of an +adjacent hill, where the violence of the wind would not permit us to +pitch a tent; so that the only shelter we could obtain was to take the +tent-cloth about our shoulders, and sit with our backs to the wind; and +in this situation we were obliged to remain without the least +refreshment, till the morning of the third of June: in the course of +which time the wind shifted all round the compass, but the bad weather +still continued, so that we were constantly obliged to shift our +position as the wind changed. + +[Sidenote: 1772. June.] + +The weather now became more moderate, though there was still a fresh +gale from the North West, with hard frost and frequent showers of snow. +Early in the morning, however, we proceeded on our journey, but the wet +and cold I had experienced the two preceding days so benumbed my lower +extremities, as to render walking for some time very troublesome. In the +course of this day's journey we saw great numbers of geese flying to the +Southward, a few of which we killed; but these were very +disproportionate to the number of mouths we had to feed, and to make up +for our long fasting. + +[Sidenote: 8th.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. June.] + +From that time to the eighth we killed every day as many geese as were +sufficient to preserve life; but on that day we perceived plenty of +deer, five of which the Indians killed, which put us all into good +spirits, and the {297} number of deer we then saw afforded great hopes +of more plentiful times during the remainder of our journey. It is +almost needless to add, that people in our distressed situation expended +a little time in eating, and slicing some of the flesh ready for drying; +but the drying it occasioned no delay, as we fastened it on the tops of +the women's bundles, and dried it by the sun and wind while we were +walking; and, strange as it may appear, meat thus prepared is not only +very substantial food, but pleasant to the taste, and generally much +esteemed by the natives. For my own part I must acknowledge, that it was +not only agreeable to my palate, but after eating a meal of it, I have +always found that I could travel longer without victuals, than after any +other kind of food. All the dried meat prepared by the Southern Indians +is performed by exposing it to the heat of a large fire, which soon +exhausts all the fine juices from it, and when sufficiently dry to +prevent putrefaction, is no more to be compared with that cured by the +Northern Indians in the Sun, or by the heat of a very slow fire, than +meat that has been boiled down for the sake of the soup, is to that +which is only sufficiently boiled for eating: the latter has all the +juices remaining, which, being easily dissolved by the heat and +moisture of the stomach, proves a strong and nourishing food; whereas +the former being entirely deprived of those qualities, can by no means +have an equal claim to that character. Most of the Europeans, however, +are fonder of it than they are of that cured by the {298} Northern +Indians. The same may be said to the lean parts of the beast, which are +first dried, and then reduced into a kind of powder. That done by the +Northern Indians is entirely free from smoke, and quite soft and mellow +in the mouth: whereas that which is prepared by the Southern tribes is +generally as bitter as soot with smoke, and is as hard as the scraps of +horn, &c. which are burnt to make hardening for the cutlers. I never +knew, that any European was so fond of this as they are of that made by +the Northern Indians. + +[Sidenote: 9th.] + +On the ninth, as we were continuing our course to the Factory, which +then lay in the South East quarter, we saw several smokes to the North +East, and the same day spoke with many Northern Indians, who were going +to Knapp's Bay to meet the Churchill sloop. Several of those Indians had +furrs with them, but having some time before taken up goods on trust at +Prince of Wales's Fort, were taking that method to delay the payment of +them. Defrauds of this kind have been practised by many of those people +with great success, ever since the furr-trade has been established with +the Northern Indians at Knapp's Bay; by which means debts to a +considerable amount are annually lost to the Company, as well as their +Governor in the Bay. + +Being desirous of improving every opportunity that the fine weather +afforded, we did not lose much time in conversation with those Indians, +but proceeded on our course {299} to the South East, while they +continued theirs to the North East. + +[Sidenote: 1772. June.] + +For many days after leaving those people, we had the good fortune to +meet with plenty of provisions; and as the weather was for a long time +remarkably fine and pleasant, our circumstances were altered so much for +the better, that every thing seemed to contribute to our happiness, as +if desirous to make some amends for the severe hunger, cold, and +excessive hardships that we had suffered long before, and which had +reduced us to the greatest misery and want. + +Deer was so plentiful a great part of the way, that the Indians killed +as many as were wanted, without going out of their road; and every lake +and river to which we came seemed willing to give us a change of diet, +by affording us plenty of the finest fish, which we caught either with +hooks or nets. Geese, partridges, gulls, and many other fowls, which are +excellent eating, were also in such plenty, that it only required +ammunition, in skilful hands, to have procured as many of them as we +could desire. + +The only inconvenience we now felt was from frequent showers of heavy +rain; but the intervals between these showers being very warm, and the +Sun shining bright, that difficulty was easily overcome, especially as +the belly was plentifully supplied with excellent victuals. Indeed the +{300} very thoughts of being once more arrived so near home, made me +capable of encountering every difficulty, even if it had been hunger +itself in the most formidable shape. + +[Sidenote: 18th.] + +On the eighteenth, we arrived at Egg River, from which place, at the +solicitation of my guide Matonabbee, I sent a letter post-haste to the +Chief at Prince of Wales's Fort, advising him of my being so far +advanced on my return. The weather at this time was very bad and rainy, +which caused us to lose near a whole day; but upon the fine weather +returning, we again proceeded at our usual rate of eighteen or twenty +miles a day, sometimes more or less, according as the road, the weather, +and other circumstances, would admit.[119] + +[Sidenote: 1772. June.] + +Deer now began to be not quite so plentiful as they had been, though we +met with enough for present use, which was all we wanted, each person +having as much dried meat as he could conveniently carry, besides his +furrs and other necessary baggage. + +[Sidenote: 26th.] + +[Sidenote: 1772. June.] + +[Sidenote: 29th.] + +Early in the morning of the twenty-sixth we arrived at Seal River;[BN] +but the wind blowing right up it, made {301} so great a sea, that we +were obliged to wait near ten hours before we could venture to cross it +in our little canoes. {302} In the afternoon the weather grew more +moderate, so that we were enabled to ferry over the river; after which +we resumed our journey, and at night pitched our tents in some tufts of +willows in sight of the woods of Po-co-thee-kis-co River, at which we +arrived early in the morning of the twenty-eighth; but the wind again +blowing very hard in the North East quarter, it was the afternoon of the +twenty-ninth before we could attempt to cross it. + +[Sidenote: 1772. June.] + +Just at the time we were crossing the South branch of Po-co-thee-kis-co +River, the Indians that were sent from Egg River with a letter to the +Chief at Churchill, joined us on their return, and brought a little +tobacco and some other articles which I had desired. Though it was late +in the afternoon before we had all crossed the river, yet we walked that +evening till after ten o'clock, and then put up on one of the +Goose-hunting Islands, as they are generally called, about ten miles +from the Factory. The next morning I arrived in good health at Prince of +Wales's Fort, after having been absent eighteen months and twenty-three +{303} days on this last expedition; but from my first setting out with +Captain Chawchinaha, it was two years seven months and twenty-four days. + +Though my discoveries are not likely to prove of any material advantage +to the Nation at large, or indeed to the Hudson's Bay Company, yet I +have the pleasure to think that I have fully complied with the orders of +my Masters, and that it has put a final end to all disputes concerning a +North West Passage through Hudson's Bay. It will also wipe off, in some +measure, the ill-grounded and unjust aspersions of Dobbs, Ellis, Robson, +and the American Traveller; who have all taken much pains to condemn the +conduct of the Hudson's Bay Company, as being averse from discoveries, +and from enlarging their trade.[121] + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. B. Tyrrell, August 10, 1894._ +TWO CHIPEWYAN INDIANS FROM KAZAN RIVER] + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. B. Tyrrell, August 1, 1894._ +VALLEY OF THLEWIAZA RIVER] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[101] Great Slave Lake is 288 miles long from east to west, very +irregular in width, and its area is about 10,400 square miles, being the +fifth in size among the great lakes of America. However, no reasonably +complete survey has yet been made of it. The place where he crossed it +from north to south is on the regular Indian route through the Simpson +Islands. A fish peculiar to this lake is the inconnu (see p. 254, note +103), which does not ascend the McKenzie River above the rapids at Fort +Smith, and is not found in Athabasca Lake, so that if any confirmation +were needed of the identity of his lake with Great Slave Lake, Hearne's +reference to this fish would in itself be quite convincing. Hearne was +the first white man to visit this lake, for it was not till 1785, +between thirteen and fourteen years after his visit, that the traders of +the North-West Company from Montreal reached and built a trading-post on +it, east of the mouth of the Slave River. On Peter Pond's map of 1785, +republished by L. J. Burpee, in his "Search for the Western Sea," 1908, +page 182, the following interesting note is written across the space +N.E. of Great Slave Lake: "Orchipoins Country et Road to Churchill," +showing clearly that Pond knew of the trade carried on by the northern +Indians with the Hudson's Bay Company at Churchill. + +[102] Pike=_Esox lucius_ Linn.; trout=_Cristivomer namaycush_ Walbaum; +perch=_Stizostedion vitreum_ Mitchill; barble=_Catastomus_; +tittameg=whitefish (_Coregonus_); methy=_Lota macuiosa_ (Le Sueur).--E. +A. P. + +[103] Shees. This is probably the earliest notice of the inconnu, +_Stenodus Mackenzii_ (Richardson). This anadromous species inhabits in +summer the principal rivers of Northern Alaska and Mackenzie, east to +and including the Anderson. It is present in Great Slave Lake throughout +the year, this being, as far as I know, the only inland lake thus +distinguished.--E. A. P. + +[104] Buffalo. This is the earliest notice of the northern race of the +bison, the so-called Wood Bison, _Bison bison Athabasca_ Rhoads. It was +formerly very numerous and inhabited an extensive region (see Preble's +"North Am. Fauna," No. 27, p. 144, 1908), but is now reduced to a few +small herds, aggregating a few hundred individuals, which roam over a +limited area south of Great Slave Lake.--E. A. P. + +[BC] It is remarked by Mr. Catesby, in his description of this animal, +that no man can lift one of their heads. Those I saw in the Athapuscow +country are such as I have described; and I am assured by the Company's +servants, as well as the Indians who live near Hudson's House, that the +buffalos there are much smaller; so that the species Mr. Catesby saw, or +wrote of, must have been much larger, or have had very large heads; for +it is well known that a man of any tolerable strength can lift two and a +half, or three hundred pounds weight. I think that the heads of his +buffalos are too heavy for the bodies, as the bodies of those I saw in +the Athapuscow country appear to have been of equal weight with his. + +[105] _Alces Americanus_ (Clinton), still common throughout the +region.--E. A. P. + +[BD] The moose formerly sent to his Majesty was from that place. A young +male was also put on board the ship, but it died on the passage, +otherwise it is probable they might have propagated in this country. + +[BE] Since the above was written, the same Indian that brought all the +above-mentioned young moose to the Factory had, in the year 1777, two +others, so tame, that when on his passage to Prince of Wales's Fort in a +canoe, the moose always followed him along the bank of the river; and at +night, or on any other occasion when the Indians landed, the young moose +generally came and fondled on them, in the same manner as the most +domestic animal would have done, and never offered to stray from the +tents. Unfortunately, in crossing a deep bay in one of the lakes (on a +fine day), all the Indians that were not interested in the safe-landing +of those engaging creatures, paddled from point to point; and the man +that owned them, not caring to go so far about by himself, accompanied +the others, in hopes they would follow him round as usual; but at night +the young moose did not arrive; and as the howling of some wolves was +heard in that quarter, it was supposed they had been devoured by them, +as they were never afterward seen. + +[BF] Mr. Du Pratz, in his description of this animal, says, it is never +found farther North than Cape Breton and Nova Scotia; but I have seen +them in great numbers in the Athapuscow Country, which cannot be much +short of 60 deg. North latitude. + +[106] The deer here meant is the Wapati or Canadian Elk, the Cree name +of which is Waskas[=u], or Wewaskas[=u]. + +[BG] The Northern Indians make their fishing-nets with small thongs cut +from raw deer-skins; which when dry appear very good, but after being +soaked in water some time, grow so soft and slippery, that when large +fish strike the net, the hitches are very apt to slip and let them +escape. Beside this inconvenience, they are very liable to rot, unless +they be frequently taken out of the water and dried. + +[BH] It is too common a case with most of the tribes of Southern Indians +for the women to desire their husbands or friends, when going to war, to +bring them a slave, that they may have the pleasure of killing it; and +some of these inhuman women will accompany their husbands, and murder +the women and children as fast as their husbands do the men. + +When I was at Cumberland House, (an inland settlement that I established +for the Hudson's Bay Company in the year 1774,) I was particularly +acquainted with a very young lady of this extraordinary turn; who, when +I desired some Indians that were going to war to bring me a young slave, +which I intended to have brought up as a domestic, Miss was equally +desirous that one might be brought to her, for the cruel purpose of +murdering it. It is scarcely possible to express my astonishment, on +hearing such an extraordinary request made by a young creature scarcely +sixteen years old; however, as soon as I recovered from my surprise, I +ordered her to leave the settlement, which she did, with those who were +going to war; and it is therefore probable she might not be disappointed +in her request. The next year I was ordered to the command of Prince of +Wales's Fort, and therefore never saw her afterward. + +[107] The map is very indefinite in this part of his course, and little +dependence can be placed on his positions. The place where he came to +the Slave (Athapuscow) River must have been some distance south of Great +Slave Lake, and as he followed it upwards for forty miles to where it +turned to the south, he probably reached some place not far from the +rapids at Fort Smith, in latitude 60 deg. north, which is 15' south of the +point indicated on his map as the place where he left the river and +struck into the country to the east. + +[108] When the geography of the country between Athabasca and Great +Slave Lakes becomes known, it may be possible to follow him here, but +his map gives no indication of any stream in this vicinity flowing into +Lake Clowey. He appears to have thought so little of the small river +that he did not take the trouble to map it. + +[109] The reference here and on the following pages is certainly to the +belt of forest which occurs on the banks of Thelon River and its +tributary above its junction with the Dubawnt River. J. W. Tyrrell, who +explored and surveyed this river in 1900, refers to it as follows:-- + +"The investigations of the present expedition have, however, established +both the existence and location of such an oasis; but, as predicted by +Hearne, the primitive settlers have long since departed, although for +some other reasons than lack of fuel. + +"In support of Hearne's story, and my belief that his reference was to +the valley of the Thelon, it may be noted that some very old choppings +were observed, as well as the decayed, moss-grown remains of some very +old camps, whilst scarcely any recent signs of habitation exist. + +"The wooded, or partially-wooded, banks of the Thelon extend for a +distance of about one hundred and seventy miles below the forks of the +Hanbury. This distance is not to be understood as a continuous stretch +of timber, but over that distance many fine spruce groves, as well as +more or less continuous thinly-scattered trees are found. The largest +trees measured from twelve to fifteen inches in diameter, but the +average diameter would be about six inches." (Append. 26, Pt. III. +Annual Report, Department of the Interior, Canada, 1901, pp. 7, 27.) + +[BI] To snare swans, geese, or ducks, in the water, it requires no other +process than to make a number of hedges, or fences, project into the +water, at right angles, from the banks of a river, lake, or pond; for it +is observed that those birds generally swim near the margin, for the +benefit of feeding on the grass, &c. Those fences are continued for some +distance from the shore, and separated two or three yards from each +other, so that openings are left sufficiently large to let the birds +swim through. In each of those openings a snare is hung and fastened to +a stake, which the bird, when intangled, cannot drag from the bottom; +and to prevent the snare from being wafted out of its proper place by +the wind, it is secured to the stakes which form the opening, with +tender grass, which is easily broken. + +This method, though it has the appearance of being very simple, is +nevertheless attended with much trouble, particularly when we consider +the smallness of their canoes, and the great inconveniency they labour +under in performing works of this kind in the water. Many of the stakes +used on those occasions are of a considerable length and size, and the +small branches which form the principal part of the hedges, are not +arranged without much caution, for fear of oversetting the canoes, +particularly where the water is deep, as it is in some of the lakes; and +in many of the rivers the current is very swift, which renders this +business equally troublesome. When the lakes and rivers are shallow, the +natives are frequently at the pains to make fences from shore to shore. + +To snare those birds in their nests requires a considerable degree of +art, and, as the natives say, a great deal of cleanliness; for they have +observed, that when snares have been set by those whose hands were not +clean, the birds would not go into the nest. + +Even the goose, though so simple a bird, is notoriously known to forsake +her eggs, if they are breathed on by the Indians. + +The smaller species of birds which make their nest in the ground, are by +no means so delicate, of course less care is necessary to snare them. It +has been observed that all birds which build in the ground go into their +nest at one particular side, and out of it on the opposite. The Indians, +thoroughly convinced of this, always set the snares on the side on which +the bird enters the nest; and if care be taken in setting them, seldom +fail of seizing their object. For small birds, such as larks, and many +others of equal size, the Indians only use two or three hairs out of +their head; but for larger birds, particularly swans, geese, and ducks, +they make snares of deer-sinews, twisted like packthread, and +occasionally of a small thong cut from a parchment deer-skin. + +[BJ] The Indians, both Northern and Southern, have found by experience, +that by boiling the pesogan in water for a considerable time, the +texture is so much improved, that when thoroughly dried, some parts of +it will be nearly as soft as spunge. + +Some of those funguses are as large as a man's head; the outside, which +is very hard and black, and much indented with deep cracks, being of no +use, is always chopped off with a hatchet. Besides the two sorts of +touchwood already mentioned, there is another kind of it in those parts, +that I think is infinitely preferable to either. This is found in old +decayed poplars, and lies in flakes of various sizes and thickness; some +is not thicker than shammoy leather, others are as thick as a shoe-sole. +This, like the fungus of the birch-tree, is always moist when taken from +the tree, but when dry, it is very soft and flexible, and takes fire +readily from the spark of a steel; but it is much improved by being kept +dry in a bag that has contained gunpowder. It is rather surprising that +the Indians, whose mode of life I have just been describing, have never +acquired the method of making fire by friction, like the Esquimaux. It +is also equally surprising that they do not make use of the skin-canoes. +Probably deer-skins cannot be manufactured to withstand the water;[110] +for it is well known that the Esquimaux use always seal-skins for that +purpose, though they are in the habit of killing great numbers of deer. + +[110] The Eskimos met with on the banks of the Kasan River in 1894 make +their canoes entirely of deer-skin parchment. + +[111] The positions of these two lakes are not exactly known, but they +doubtless lie near the regular Indian canoe route from the north Bay of +Lake Athabasca to Great Slave Lake. The latter lake lies fourteen miles +W. or S.W. of Noo-shetht Lake. + +[112] On Hearne's map the position of Noo-shetht Whoie or Newstheth tooy +Lake in relation to the streams in the country is very indefinite, but +on the Pennant map it is shown on a stream which flows northward into +Great Slave Lake. In King's "Journey to the Shores of the Arctic Ocean," +vol. ii. p. 289, a copy of an Indian map of a canoe route northward from +Lake Athabasca is published. Most of this route is down the Copper +Indian (Yellow Knife or Rock) River, which flows into Great Slave Lake a +short distance east of the mouth of Slave River, and one of the lakes +there shown is Tazennatooy or Muddy Water Lake, while another is +Newstheth tooy, the lake here referred to. + +[BK] Though I was a swift runner in those days, I never accompanied the +Indians in one of those chaces, but have heard many of them say, that +after a long one, the moose, when killed, did not produce more than a +quart of blood, the remainder being all settled in the flesh; which, in +that state, must be ten times worse tasted, than the spleen or milt of a +bacon hog. + +[113] Thee-lee-aza River is called Theetinah River (Blue Fish River?) on +the Pennant map, and Petitot speaks of it as a tributary of T'ezus or +Snowdrift River, which also empties into the south side of Great Slave +Lake. + +[114] The latitude of this lake had been determined by Hearne as 61 deg. 30' +north, as previously stated on p. 127, and he had placed it on his map +in latitude 61 deg. 15' north. In making the journey to the Coppermine River +and back to the lake, he had occupied a little more than a year, having +left it on April 18th, 1771, and returned to it on April 29th, 1772. + +[115] On the 8th of March 1771 they "lay a little to the E.N.E. of Black +Bear Hill" (see p. 125), while now they are three quarters of a mile +south of it. As this hill is but a short distance (two days' journey) +west of Wholdiah Lake, the two routes laid down on the map are evidently +incorrect, for the map shows his route home at this place at least +thirty-five miles north of the route out, instead of south of it as +indicated by the text. + +[BL] As a proof of this assertion I take the liberty, though a little +foreign to the narrative of my journey, to insert one instance, out of +many hundreds of the kind that happen at the different Factories in +Hudson's Bay, but perhaps no where so frequently as at Churchill. In +October 1776, my old guide, Matonabbee, came at the head of a large gang +of Northern Indians, to trade at Prince of Wales's Fort; at which time I +had the honour to command it. When the usual ceremonies had passed, I +dressed him out as a Captain of the first rank, and also clothed his six +wives from top to toe: after which, that is to say, during his stay at +the Factory, which was ten days, he begged seven lieutenants' coats, +fifteen common coats, eighteen hats, eighteen shirts, eight guns, one +hundred and forty pounds weight of gunpowder, with shot, ball, and +flints in proportion; together with many hatchets, ice chissels, files, +bayonets, knives, and a great quantity of tobacco, cloth, blankets, +combs, looking-glasses, stockings, handkerchiefs, &c. besides numberless +small articles, such as awls, needles, paint, steels, &c. in all to the +amount of upwards of seven hundred beaver in the way of trade, to give +away among his followers. This was exclusive of his own present, which +consisted of a variety of goods to the value of four hundred beaver +more. But the most extraordinary of his demands was twelve pounds of +powder, twenty-eight pounds of shot and ball, four pounds of tobacco, +some articles of clothing, and several pieces of iron-work, &c. to give +to two men who had hauled his tent and other lumber the preceding +Winter. This demand was so very unreasonable, that I made some scruple, +or at least hesitated to comply with it, hinting that he was the person +who ought to satisfy those men for their services; but I was soon +answered, that he did not expect to have been _denied such a trifle as +that was_; and for the future he would carry his goods where he could +get his own price for them. On my asking him where that was? he replied, +in a very insolent tone, "To the Canadian Traders." I was glad to comply +with his demands; and I here insert the anecdote, as a specimen of an +Indian's conscience. + +[116] The river down which the party was travelling at this time would +appear to have been a tributary of the Dubawnt River from the west. +Unfortunately when I descended the Dubawnt River there were no Chipewyan +Indians in the party, so that I was not able to learn the local names of +the various lakes and natural features encountered, nor anything of the +geography of the country beyond the range of vision, so that doubtless +many streams joined the main river without being noticed by me. This is +probably one of them. + +[117] The north end of Wholdiah Lake of the present maps is in latitude +60 deg. 49' north, whereas the part crossed by Hearne, which he calls A +Naw-nee-tha'd Whoie, is placed by him in latitude 61 deg. 50' north. It +remains for some future explorer to account for this discrepancy, and +give the exact situation of this place. That Hearne's position is much +too far north is clear, for they were then in the woods, and the +northern limit of the woods crosses the Dubawnt River about latitude 61 deg. +30' N., twenty-three miles south of Hearne's course as indicated on his +map. + +[BM] All the furrs thus left were properly secured in caves and crevices +of the rocks, so as to withstand any attempt that might be made on them +by beasts of prey, and were well shielded from the weather; so that, in +all probability, few of them were lost. + +[118] As they were then on the barren lands, they probably crossed the +Kazan River, somewhere about the north end of Ennadai Lake. There is a +lake marked on the Mackenzie map as Nipach Lake which may possibly be +intended to represent this latter lake. Although there are a few groves +of spruce along the banks of this stream, north of the limit of the +forest, no attempts seem to have been made by Hearne or his party to +camp at them. The date here given is interesting as naming a time when +one, at least, of the streams through the barren lands breaks up in +spring. + +[119] In the text no indication is given of the course which he followed +after crossing Kazan River, but his map shows that he followed the route +of his journey outwards, crossing Fat, Island, Whiskey Jack, and +Baralzoa Lakes. The Cook map, however, shows that he went round to the +north of Island Lake, and doubtless he also went round the largest of +the other lakes, for he would hardly dare to cross them in the little +canoes which he and the Indians were using for crossing the streams. + +[BN] Mr. Jeremie is very incorrect in his account of the situation of +this River, and its course. It is not easy to guess, whether the Copper +or Dog-ribbed Indians be the nation he calls _Platscotez de Chiens_: if +it be the former, he is much mistaken; for they have abundance of +beaver, and other animals of the furr kind, in their country: and if the +latter, he is equally wrong to assert that they have copper-mines in +their country; for neither copper nor any other kind of metal is in use +among them. + +Mr. Jeremie was not too modest when he said, (see Dobb's Account of +Hudson's Bay, p. 19,) "he could not say any thing positively in going +farther North;" for in my opinion he never was so far North or West as +he pretends, otherwise he would have been more correct in his +description of those parts. + +The Strait he mentions is undoubtedly no other than what is now called +Chesterfield's Inlet, which, in some late and cold seasons, is not clear +of ice the whole Summer: for I will affirm, that no Indian, either +Northern or Southern, ever saw either Wager Water or Repulse Bay, except +the two men who accompanied Captain Middleton; and though those men were +selected from some hundreds for their universal knowledge of those +parts, yet they knew nothing of the coast so far North as Marble Island. + +As a farther proof, that no Indians, except the Esquimaux, ever frequent +such high latitudes, unless at a great distance from the sea, I must +here mention, that so late as the year 1763, when Captain Christopher +went to survey Chesterfield's Inlet, though he was furnished with the +most intelligent and experienced Northern Indians that could be found, +they did not know an inch of the land to the North of Whale Cove. + +Mr. Jeremie is also as much mistaken in what he says concerning +Churchill River, as he was in the direction of Seal River; for he says +that no woods were found but in some islands which lie about ten or +twelve miles up the river. At the time he wrote, which was long before a +settlement was made there, wood was in great plenty on both sides the +river; and that within five miles of where Prince of Wales's Fort now +stands. But as to the islands of which he speaks, if they ever existed, +they have of late years most assuredly disappeared; for since the +Company have had a settlement on that river, no one ever saw an island +in it that produced timber, or wood of any description, within forty +miles of the Fort. But the great number of stumps now remaining, from +which, in all probability, the trees have been cut for firing, are +sufficient to prove that when Churchill River was first settled, wood +was then in great plenty; but in the course of seventy-six years +residence in one place, it is natural to suppose it was much thinned +near the Settlement. Indeed for some years past common fewel is so +scarce near that Factory, that it is the chief employment of most of the +servants for upward of seven months in the year, to procure as much wood +as will supply the fires for a Winter, and a little timber for necessary +repairs.[120] + +[120] Mr. Jeremie was in charge of York Factory for six years, from 1708 +to 1714, while it was in the hands of the French. His reference to the +presence of native copper among the _Plascotez de Chiens_, or Dog Rib +Indians, who inhabit the country between the mouth of the Mackenzie and +the Coppermine River, is particularly interesting:-- + +"Ils ont dans leur Pays une _Mine de Cuivre rouge_, si abondante & si +pure, que, sans le passer par la forge, tel qu'ils le ramassent a la +Mine, ils ne font que le frapper entre deux pierres, & en font tout ce +qu'ils veulent. J'en ai vu fort souvent, parce que nos Sauvages en +apportoient toutes les fois qu'ils alloient en guerre de ces cotez la." +(_Jeremie._ "Relation du Detroit et de la Baie de Hudson," in "Recueil +de Voyages au Nord." Par J. F. Bernard. 10 vols. 12mo. Amsterdam. 1724. +Tom. v. p. 404.) + +[121] Of the life at Fort Prince of Wales under Moses Norton in 1771, +during the year of Hearne's absence on the Coppermine River, we have the +following interesting account by Andrew Graham, one of the factors of +the Hudson's Bay Company:-- + +"Prince of Wales Fort. On a peninsula at the entrance of the Churchill +River. Most northern settlement of the Company. A stone fort, mounting +forty-two cannon [an error, as there are embrasures for only forty +cannon in the parapet of the fort], from six to twenty-four pounders. +Opposite, on the south side of the river, Cape Merry Battery, mounting +six twenty-four pounders, with lodge-house and powder magazine. The +river 1006 yards wide. A ship can anchor six miles above the fort. Tides +carry salt water twelve miles up the river. No springs near; drink snow +water nine months of the year. In summer keep three draught horses to +haul water and draw stones to finish building the forts. + +"Staff:--A chief factor and officers, with sixty servants and tradesmen. +The council, with discretionary power, consists of chief factor, second +factor, surgeon, sloop and brig masters, and captain of Company's ship +when in port. These answer and sign the general letter, sent yearly to +directors. The others are accountant, trader, steward, armourer, +ship-wright, carpenter, cooper, blacksmith, mason, tailor, and +labourers. These must not trade with natives, under penalties for so +doing. Council mess together, also servants. Called by bell to duty, +work from six to six in summer, eight to four in winter. Two watch in +winter, three in summer. In emergencies, tradesmen must work at +anything. Killing of partridges the most pleasant duty. + +"Company signs contract with servants for three or five years, with the +remarkable clause: 'Company may recall them home at any time without +satisfaction for the remaining time. Contract may be renewed, if +servants or labourers wish, at expiry of term. Salary advanced forty +shillings, if men have behaved well in first term. The land and sea +officers' and tradesmen's salaries do not vary, but seamen's are raised +in time of war.' + +"A ship of 200 tons burden, bearing provisions, arrives yearly in August +or early September. Sails again in ten days, wind permitting, with cargo +and those returning. Sailors alone get pay when at home. + +"The annual trade sent home from this fort is from ten to four thousand +made beaver, in furs, pelts, castorum, goose feathers, and quills, and a +small quantity of train oil and whale bone, part of which they receive +from the Eskimos, and the rest from the white whale fishery. A black +whale fishery is in hand, but it shows no progress." ("The Remarkable +History of the Hudson's Bay Company." By George Bryce, 1900, pp. 108-9.) + + + + +{304} CHAP. IX. + + A short Description of the Northern Indians, also a farther + Account of their Country, Manufactures, Customs, &c. + + _An account of the persons and tempers of the Northern + Indians--They possess a great deal of art and cunning--Are very + guilty of fraud when in their power, and generally exact more + for their furrs than any other tribe of Indians,--Always + dissatisfied, yet have their good qualities--The men in general + jealous of their wives--Their marriages--Girls always betrothed + when children, and their reasons for it--Great care and + confinement of young girls from the age of eight or nine years + old--Divorces common among those people--The women are less + prolific than in warmer countries--Remarkable piece of + superstition observed by the women at particular periods--Their + art in making it an excuse for a temporary separation from their + husbands on any little quarrel--Reckoned very unclean on those + occasions--The Northern Indians frequently, for the want of + firing, are obliged to eat their meat raw--Some through + necessity obliged to boil it in vessels made of the rind of the + birch-tree--A remarkable dish among those people--The young + animals always cut out of their dams eaten, and accounted a + great delicacy--The parts of generation of all animals eat by + the men and boys--Manner of passing their time, and method of + killing deer in Summer with bows and arrows--Their tents, dogs, + sledges, &c.--Snow-shoes--Their partiality to domestic + vermin--Utmost extent of the Northern Indian country--Face of + the country--Species of fish--A peculiar kind of moss useful for + the support of man--Northern Indian method of catching fish, + either with hooks or nets--Ceremony observed when two parties of + those people meet--Diversions in common use--A singular disorder + which attacks some of those people--Their {305} superstition + with respect to the death of their friends--Ceremony observed on + those occasions--Their ideas of the first inhabitants of the + world--No form of religion among them--Remarks on that + circumstance--The extreme misery to which old age is + exposed--Their opinion of the Aurora Borealis, &c.--Some Account + of Matonabbee, and his services to his country, as well as to + the Hudson's Bay Company._ + + +As to the persons of the Northern Indians, they are in general above the +middle size; well-proportioned, strong, and robust, but not corpulent. +They do not possess that activity of body, and liveliness of +disposition, which are so commonly met with among the other tribes of +Indians who inhabit the West coast of Hudson's Bay. + +Their complexion is somewhat of the copper cast, inclining rather toward +a dingy brown; and their hair, like all the other tribes in India, is +black, strong, and straight.[BO] Few of the men have any beard; this +seldom makes its appearance till they are arrived at middle-age, and +then is by no means equal in quantity to what is observed on the faces +of the generality of Europeans; the little they have, however, is +exceedingly strong and bristly. Some of them take but little pains to +eradicate their beards, though it is considered as very unbecoming; and +those {306} who do, have no other method than that of pulling it out by +the roots between their fingers and the edge of a blunt knife. Neither +sex have any hair under their armpits, and very little on any other part +of the body, particularly the women; but on the place where Nature +plants the hair, I never knew them attempt to eradicate it. + +Their features are peculiar, and different from any other tribe in those +parts; for they have very low foreheads, small eyes, high cheek-bones, +Roman noses, full cheeks, and in general long broad chins. Though few of +either sex are exempt from this national set of features, yet Nature +seems to be more strict in her observance of it among the females, as +they seldom vary so much as the men. Their skins are soft, smooth, and +polished; and when they are dressed in clean clothing, they are as free +from an offensive smell as any of the human race. + +Every tribe of Northern Indians, as well as the Copper and Dog-ribbed +Indians, have three or four parallel black strokes marked on each cheek; +which is performed by entering an awl or needle under the skin, and, on +drawing it out again, immediately rubbing powdered charcoal into the +wound. + +Their dispositions are in general morose and covetous, and they seem to +be entirely unacquainted even with the name of gratitude. They are for +ever pleading poverty, {307} even among themselves; and when they visit +the Factory, there is not one of them who has not a thousand wants. + +When any real distressed objects present themselves at the Company's +Factory, they are always relieved with victuals, clothes, medicines, and +every other necessary, _gratis_; and in return, they instruct every one +of their countrymen how to behave, in order to obtain the same charity. +Thus it is very common to see both men and women come to the Fort +half-naked, when either the severe cold in Winter, or the extreme +troublesomeness of the flies in Summer, make it necessary for every part +to be covered. On those occasions they are seldom at a loss for a +plausible story, which they relate as the occasion of their distress +(whether real or pretended), and never fail to interlard their history +with plenty of sighs, groans, and tears, sometimes affecting to be lame, +and even blind, in order to excite pity. Indeed, I know of no people +that have more command of their passions on such occasions; and in this +respect the women exceed the men, as I can affirm with truth I have seen +some of them with one side of the face bathed in tears, while the other +has exhibited a significant smile. False pretences for obtaining charity +are so common among those people, and so often detected, that the +Governor is frequently obliged to turn a deaf ear to many who apply for +relief; for if he did not, he might give away the whole of the +Company's goods, and by degrees all the Northern {308} tribe would make +a trade of begging, instead of bringing furrs, to purchase what they +want. It may truly be said, that they possess a considerable degree of +deceit, and are very complete adepts in the art of flattery, which they +never spare as long as they find that it conduces to their interest, but +not a moment longer. They take care always to seem attached to a new +Governor, and flatter his pride, by telling him that they look up to him +as the father of their tribe, on whom they can safely place their +dependance; and they never fail to depreciate the generosity of his +predecessor, however extensive that might have been, however humane or +disinterested his conduct; and if aspersing the old, and flattering the +new Governor, has not the desired effect in a reasonable time, they +represent him as the worst of characters, and tell him to his face that +he is one of the most cruel of men; that he has no feeling for the +distresses of their tribe, and that many have perished for want of +proper assistance, (which, if it be true, is only owing to want of +humanity among themselves,) and then they boast of having received ten +times the favours and presents from his predecessor. It is remarkable +that those are most lavish in their praises, who have never either +deserved or received any favours from him. In time, however, this +language also ceases, and they are perfectly reconciled to the man whom +they would willingly have made a fool, and say, "he is no child, and not +to be deceived by them." + +{309} They differ so much from the rest of mankind, that harsh +uncourteous usage seems to agree better with the generality of them, +particularly the lower class, than mild treatment; for if the least +respect be shown them, it makes them intolerably insolent; and though +some of their leaders may be exempt from this imputation, yet there are +but few even of them who have sense enough to set a proper value on the +favours and indulgences which are granted to them while they remain at +the Company's Factories, or elsewhere within their territories. +Experience has convinced me, that by keeping a Northern Indian at a +distance, he may be made serviceable both to himself and the Company; +but by giving him the least indulgence at the Factory, he will grow +indolent, inactive, and troublesome, and only contrive methods to tax +the generosity of an European. + +The greatest part of these people never fail to defraud Europeans +whenever it is in their power, and take every method to over-reach them +in the way of trade. They will disguise their persons and change their +names, in order to defraud them of their lawful debts, which they are +sometimes permitted to contract at the Company's Factory; and all debts +that are outstanding at the succession of a new Governor are entirely +lost, as they always declare, and bring plenty of witnesses to prove, +that they were paid long before, but that their names had been forgotten +to be struck out of the book. + +{310} Notwithstanding all those bad qualities, they are the mildest +tribe of Indians that trade at any of the Company's settlements; and as +the greatest part of them are never heated with liquor, are always in +their senses, and never proceed to riot, or any violence beyond bad +language. + +The men are in general very jealous of their wives, and I make no doubt +but the same spirit reigns among the women; but they are kept so much in +awe of their husbands, that the liberty of thinking is the greatest +privilege they enjoy. The presence of a Northern Indian man strikes a +peculiar awe into his wives, as he always assumes the same authority +over them that the master of a family in Europe usually does over his +domestic servants. + +Their marriages are not attended with any ceremony; all matches are made +by the parents, or next of kin. On those occasions the women seem to +have no choice, but implicitly obey the will of their parents, who +always endeavour to marry their daughters to those that seem most +likely to be capable of maintaining them, let their age, person, or +disposition be ever so despicable. + +The girls are always betrothed when children, but never to those of +equal age, which is doubtless sound policy with people in their +situation, where the existence of a family {311} depends entirely on the +abilities and industry of a single man. Children, as they justly +observe, are so liable to alter in their manners and disposition, that +it is impossible to judge from the actions of early youth what abilities +they may possess when they arrive at puberty. For this reason the girls +are often so disproportionably matched for age, that it is very common +to see men of thirty-five or forty years old have young girls of no more +than ten or twelve, and sometimes much younger. From the early age of +eight or nine years, they are prohibited by custom from joining in the +most innocent amusements with children of the opposite sex; so that when +sitting in their tents, or even when travelling, they are watched and +guarded with such an unremitting attention as cannot be exceeded by the +most rigid discipline of an English boarding-school. Custom, however, +and constant example, make such uncommon restraint and confinement sit +light and easy even on children, whose tender ages seem better adapted +to innocent and cheerful amusements, than to be cooped up by the side of +old women, and constantly employed in scraping skins, mending shoes, and +learning other domestic duties necessary in the care of a family. + +Notwithstanding those uncommon restraints on the young girls, the +conduct of their parents is by no means uniform or consistent with this +plan; as they set no bounds to their conversation, but talk before them, +and even to them, on the most indelicate subjects. As their ears are +accustomed {312} to such language from their earliest youth, this has by +no means the same effect on them, it would have on girls born and +educated in a civilized country, where every care is taken to prevent +their morals from being contaminated by obscene conversation. The +Southern Indians are still less delicate in conversation, in the +presence of their children. + +The women among the Northern Indians are in general more backward than +the Southern Indian women; and though it is well known that neither +tribe lose any time, those early connections are seldom productive of +children for some years. + +Divorces are pretty common among the Northern Indians; sometimes for +incontinency, but more frequently for want of what they deem necessary +accomplishments or for bad behaviour. This ceremony, in either case, +consists of neither more nor less than a good drubbing, and turning the +woman out of doors; telling her to go to her paramour, or relations, +according to the nature of her crime. + +Providence is very kind in causing these people to be less prolific than +the inhabitants of civilized nations; it is very uncommon to see one +woman have more than five or six children; and these are always born at +such a distance from one another, that the youngest is generally two or +{313} three years old before another is brought into the world. Their +easy births, and the ceremonies which take place on those occasions, +have already been mentioned; I shall therefore only observe here, that +they make no use of cradles, like the Southern Indians, but only tie a +lump of moss between their legs, and always carry their children at +their backs, next the skin, till they are able to walk. Though their +method of treating young children is in this respect the most uncouth +and awkward I ever saw, there are few among them that can be called +deformed, and not one in fifty who is not bow-legged. + +There are certain periods at which they never permit the women to abide +in the same tent with their husbands. At such times they are obliged to +make a small hovel for themselves at some distance from the other tents. +As this is an universal custom among all the tribes, it is also a piece +of policy with the women, upon any difference with their husbands, to +make that an excuse for a temporary separation, when, without any +ceremony, they creep out (as is their usual custom on those occasions) +under the eves of that side of the tent at which they happen to be +sitting; for at those times they are not permitted to go in or out +through the door. This custom is so generally prevalent among the women, +that I have frequently known some of the sulky dames leave their +husbands and tent for four or five days at a time, and repeat the farce +twice or thrice in a month, while the poor men have never suspected the +deceit, or if they {314} have, delicacy on their part has not permitted +them to enquire into the matter. I have known Matonabbee's handsome +wife, who eloped from him in May one thousand seven hundred and +seventy-one, live thun-nardy, as they call it, (that is, alone,) for +several weeks together, under this pretence; but as a proof he had some +suspicion, she was always carefully watched, to prevent her from giving +her company to any other man. The Southern Indians are also very +delicate in this point; for though they do not force their wives to +build a separate tent, they never lie under the same clothes during this +period. It is, however, equally true, that the young girls, when those +symptoms make their first appearance, generally go a little distance +from the other tents for four or five days, and at their return wear a +kind of veil or curtain, made of beads, for some time after, as a mark +of modesty; as they are then considered marriageable, and of course are +called women, though some at those periods are not more than thirteen, +while others at the age of fifteen or sixteen have been reckoned as +children, though apparently arrived at nearly their full growth. + +On those occasions a remarkable piece of superstition prevails among +them; women in this situation are never permitted to walk on the ice of +rivers or lakes, or near the part where the men are hunting beaver, or +where a fishing-net is set, for fear of averting their success. They are +also prohibited at those times from partaking of the {315} head of any +animal, and even from walking in, or crossing the track where the head +of a deer, moose, beaver, and many other animals, have lately been +carried, either on a sledge or on the back. To be guilty of a violation +of this custom is considered as of the greatest importance; because they +firmly believe that it would be a means of preventing the hunter from +having an equal success in his future excursions. + +Those poor people live in such an inhospitable part of the globe, that +for want of firing, they are frequently obliged to eat their victuals +quite raw, particularly in the Summer season, while on the barren +ground; but early custom and frequent necessity make this practice so +familiar to them, that so far from finding any inconvenience arise from +it, or having the least dislike to it, they frequently do it by choice, +and particularly in the article of fish; for when they do make a +pretence of dressing it, they seldom warm it through. I have frequently +made one of a party who has sat round a fresh-killed deer, and assisted +in picking the bones quite clean, when I thought that the raw brains and +many other parts were exceedingly good; and, however strange it may +appear, I must bestow the same epithet on half-raw fish: even to this +day I give the preference to trout, salmon, and the brown tittemeg, when +they are not warm at the bone. + +{316} The extreme poverty of those Indians in general will not permit +one half of them to purchase brass kettles from the Company; so that +they are still under the necessity of continuing their original mode of +boiling their victuals in large upright vessels made of birch-rind. As +those vessels will not admit of being exposed to the fire, the Indians, +to supply the defect, heat stones red-hot and put them into the water, +which soon occasions it to boil; and by having a constant succession of +hot stones, they may continue the process as long as it is necessary. +This method of cooking, though very expeditious, is attended with one +great evil; the victuals which are thus prepared are full of sand: for +the stones thus heated, and then immerged in the water, are not only +liable to shiver to pieces, but many of them being of a coarse gritty +nature, fall to a mass of gravel in the kettle, which cannot be +prevented from mixing with the victuals which are boiled in it. Besides +this, they have several other methods of preparing their food, such as +roasting it by a string, broiling it, &c.; but these need no farther +description. + +The most remarkable dish among them, as well as all the other tribes of +Indians in those parts, both Northern and Southern, is blood mixed with +the half-digested food which is found in the deer's stomach or paunch, +and boiled up with a sufficient quantity of water, to make it of the +consistence of pease-pottage. Some fat and scraps {317} of tender flesh +are also shred small and boiled with it. To render this dish more +palatable, they have a method of mixing the blood with the contents of +the stomach in the paunch itself, and hanging it up in the heat and +smoke of the fire for several days; which puts the whole mass into a +state of fermentation, and gives it such an agreeable acid taste, that +were it not for prejudice, it might be eaten by those who have the +nicest palates. It is true, some people with delicate stomachs would not +be easily persuaded to partake of this dish, especially if they saw it +dressed; for most of the fat which is boiled in it is first chewed by +the men and boys, in order to break the globules that contain the fat; +by which means it all boils out, and mixes with the broth: whereas, if +it were permitted to remain as it came from the knife, it would still be +in lumps, like suet. To do justice, however, to their cleanliness in +this particular, I must observe, that they are very careful that neither +old people with bad teeth, nor young children, have any hand in +preparing this dish. At first, I must acknowledge that I was rather shy +in partaking of this mess, but when I was sufficiently convinced of the +truth of the above remark, I no longer made any scruple, but always +thought it exceedingly good. + +The stomach of no other large animal beside the deer is eaten by any of +the Indians that border on Hudson's Bay. In Winter, when the deer feed +on fine white moss, the contents of the stomach is so much esteemed by +them, {318} that I have often seen them sit round a deer where it was +killed, and eat it warm out of the paunch. In Summer the deer feed more +coarsely, and therefore this dish, if it deserve that appellation, is +then not so much in favour. + +The young calves, fawns, beaver, &c. taken out of the bellies of their +mothers, are reckoned most delicate food; and I am not the only European +who heartily joins in pronouncing them the greatest dainties that can be +eaten. Many gentlemen who have served with me at Churchill, as well as +at York Fort, and the inland settlements, will readily agree with me in +asserting, that no one who ever got the better of prejudice so far as to +taste of those young animals, but has immediately become excessively +fond of them; and the same may be said of young geese, ducks, &c. in the +shell. In fact, it is almost become a proverb in the Northern +settlements, that whoever wishes to know what is good, must live with +the Indians. + +The parts of generation belonging to any beast they kill, both male and +female, are always eaten by the men and boys; and though those parts, +particularly in the males, are generally very tough, they are not, on +any account, to be cut with an edge-tool, but torn to pieces with the +teeth; and when any part of them proves too tough to be masticated, it +is thrown into the fire and burnt. For the Indians believe firmly, that +if a dog should eat any part of them, it would have the same effect on +their {319} success in hunting, that a woman crossing their +hunting-track at an improper period would have. The same ill-success is +supposed also to attend them if a woman eat any of those parts. + +They are also remarkably fond of the womb of the buffalo, elk, deer, &c. +which they eagerly devour without washing, or any other process but +barely stroking out the contents. This, in some of the larger animals, +and especially when they are some time gone with young, needs no +description to make it sufficiently disgusting; and yet I have known +some in the Company's service remarkably fond of the dish, though I am +not one of the number. The womb of the beaver and deer is well enough, +but that of the moose and buffalo is very rank, and truly +disgusting.[BP] + +{320} Our Northern Indians who trade at the Factory, as well as all the +Copper tribe, pass their whole Summer on the barren ground, where they +generally find plenty of deer; and in some of the rivers and lakes, a +great abundance of fine fish. + +Their bows and arrows, though their original weapons, are, since the +introduction of fire-arms among them, become of little use, except in +killing deer as they walk or run through a narrow pass prepared for +their reception, where several Indians lie concealed for that purpose. +This method of hunting is only practicable in Summer, and on the barren +ground, where they have an extensive prospect, and can see the herds of +deer at a great distance, as well as discover the nature of the country, +and make every {321} necessary arrangement for driving them through the +narrow defiles. This method of hunting is performed in the following +manner: + +When the Indians see a herd of deer, and intend to hunt them with bows +and arrows, they observe which way the wind blows, and always get to +leeward, for fear of being smelled by the deer. The next thing to which +they attend, is to search for a convenient place to conceal those who +are appointed to shoot. This being done, a large bundle of sticks, like +large ramrods, (which they carry with them the whole Summer for the +purpose,) are ranged in two ranks, so as to form the two sides of a very +acute angle, and the sticks placed at the distance of fifteen or twenty +yards from each other. When those necessary arrangements are completed, +the women and boys separate into two parties, and go round on both +sides, till they form a crescent at the back of the deer, which are +drove right forward; and as each of the sticks has a small flag, or more +properly a pendant, fastened to it, which is easily waved to and fro by +the wind, and a lump of moss stuck on each of their tops, the poor +timorous deer, probably taking them for ranks of people, generally run +straight forward between the two ranges of sticks, till they get among +the Indians, who lie concealed in small circular fences, made with loose +stones, moss, &c. When the deer approach very near, the Indians who are +thus concealed start up and shoot; but as the deer generally pass along +at {322} full speed, few Indians have time to shoot more than one or two +arrows, unless the herd be very large. + +This method of hunting is not always attended with equal success; for +sometimes after the Indians have been at the trouble of making places +of shelter, and arranging the flag-sticks, &c. the deer will make off +another way, before the women and children can surround them. At other +times I have seen eleven or twelve of them killed with one volley of +arrows; and if any gun-men attend on those occasions, they are always +placed behind the other Indians, in order to pick up the deer that +escape the bow-men. By these means I have seen upwards of twenty fine +deer killed at one broadside, as it may be termed. + +Though the Northern Indians may be said to kill a great number of deer +in this manner during the Summer, yet they have so far lost the art of +shooting with bows and arrows, that I never knew any of them who could +take those weapons only, and kill either deer, moose, or buffalo, in the +common, wandering, and promiscuous method of hunting. The Southern +Indians, though they have been much longer used to fire-arms, are far +more expert with the bow and arrow, their original weapons. + +The tents made use of by those Indians, both in Summer and Winter, are +generally composed of deer-skins in the hair; and for convenience of +carriage, are always {323} made in small pieces, seldom exceeding five +buck-skins in one piece. These tents, as also their kettles, and some +other lumber, are always carried by dogs, which are trained to that +service, and are very docile and tractable. Those animals are of various +sizes and colours, but all of the fox and wolf breed, with sharp noses, +full brushy tails, and sharp ears standing erect. They are of great +courage when attacked, and bite so sharp, that the smallest cur among +them will keep several of our largest English dogs at bay, if he can get +up in a corner. These dogs are equally willing to haul in a sledge, but +as few of the men will be at the trouble of making sledges for them, the +poor women are obliged to content themselves with lessening the bulk of +their load, more than the weight, by making the dogs carry these +articles only, which are always lashed on their backs, much after the +same manner as packs are, or used formerly to be, on pack-horses. + +[Illustration: INDIAN IMPLEMENTS +A Bow +An Arrow +A left foot Snowshoe 41/2 foot long +& 13 Inches broad +A Sledge +A kettle made of Burch rinde] + +In the fall of the year, and as the Winter advances, those people sew +the skins of the deer's legs together in the shape of long portmanteaus, +which, when hauled on the snow as the hair lies, are as slippery as an +otter, and serve them as temporary sledges while on the barren ground; +but when they arrive at any woods, they then make proper sledges, with +thin boards of the larch-tree, generally known in Hudson's Bay by the +name of Juniper.[122] + +{324} Those sledges are of various sizes, according to the strength of +the persons who are to haul them: some I have seen were not less than +twelve or fourteen feet long, and fifteen or sixteen inches wide, but in +general they do not exceed eight or nine feet in length, and twelve or +fourteen inches in breadth. + +The boards of which those sledges are composed are not more than a +quarter of an inch thick, and seldom exceed five or six inches in width; +as broader would be very unhandy for the Indians to work, who have no +other tools than an ordinary knife, turned up a little at the point, +from which it acquires the name of Bafe-hoth among the Northern Indians, +but among the Southern tribes it is called Mo-co-toggan. The boards are +sewed together with thongs of parchment deer-skin, and several cross +bars of wood are sewed on the upper side, which serves both to +strengthen the sledge and secure the ground-lashing, to which the load +is always fastened by other smaller thongs, or stripes of leather. The +head or fore-part of the sledge is turned up so as to form a +semi-circle, of at least fifteen or twenty inches diameter. This +prevents the carriage from diving into light snow, and enables it to +slide over the inequalities and hard drifts of snow which are constantly +met with on the open plains and barren grounds. The trace or +draught-line to those sledges is a double string, or slip of leather, +made fast to the head; and the bight is put across the shoulders of the +person who {325} hauls the sledge, so as to rest against the breast. +This contrivance, though so simple, cannot be improved by the most +ingenious collar-maker in the world. + +Their snow-shoes differ from all others made use of in those parts; for +though they are of the galley kind, that is, sharp-pointed before, yet +they are always to be worn on one foot, and cannot be shifted from side +to side, like other snow-shoes; for this reason the inner-side of the +frames are almost straight, and the outer-side has a very large sweep. +The frames are generally made of birch-wood, and the netting is composed +of thongs of deer-skin; but their mode of filling that compartment where +the foot rests, is quite different from that used among the Southern +Indians. + +Their clothing, which chiefly consists of deer-skins in the hair, makes +them very subject to be lousy; but that is so far from being thought a +disgrace, that the best among them amuse themselves with catching and +eating these vermin; of which they are so fond, that the produce of a +lousy head or garment affords them not only pleasing amusement, but a +delicious repast. My old guide, Matonabbee, was so remarkably fond of +those little vermin, that he frequently set five or six of his strapping +wives to work to louse their hairy deer-skin shifts, the produce of +which being always very considerable, he eagerly received with both +hands, and licked them in as fast, and with as good a grace, as {326} +any European epicure would the mites in a cheese. He often assured me +that such amusement was not only very pleasing, but that the objects of +the search were very good; for which I gave him credit, telling him at +the same time, that though I endeavoured to habituate myself to every +other part of their diet, yet as I was but a sojourner among them, I had +no inclination to accustom myself to such dainties as I could not +procure in that part of the world where I was most inclined to reside. + +The Southern Indians and Esquimaux are equally fond of those vermin, +which are so detestable in the eyes of an European; nay, the latter have +many other dainties of a similar kind, for beside making use of +train-oil as a cordial and as sauce to their meat, I have frequently +seen them eat a whole handful of maggots that were produced in meat by +fly-blows. It is their constant custom to eat the filth that comes from +the nose; and when their noses bleed by accident, they always lick the +blood into their mouths, and swallow it. + +The tract of land inhabited by the Northern Indians is very extensive, +reaching from the fifty-ninth to the sixty-eighth degree of North +latitude; and from East to West is upward of five hundred miles wide. It +is bounded by Churchill River on the South; the Athapuscow Indians' +Country on the West; the Dog-ribbed and Copper Indians' Country on the +North; and by Hudson's Bay on the East. {327} The land throughout that +whole tract of country is scarcely anything but one solid mass of rocks +and stones, and in most parts very hilly, particularly to the Westward +among the woods. The surface, it is very true, is in most places covered +with a thin sod of moss, intermixed with the roots of the +Wee-sa-ca-pucca, cranberries, and a few other insignificant shrubs and +herbage; but under it there is in general a total want of soil, capable +of producing anything except what is peculiar to the climate. Some of +the marshes, indeed, produce several kinds of grass, the growth of which +is amazingly rapid; but this is dealt out with so sparing a hand as to +be barely sufficient to serve the geese, swans, and other birds of +passage, during their migrations in the Spring and Fall, while they +remain in a moulting state. + +The many lakes and rivers with which this part of the country abounds, +though they do not furnish the natives with water-carriage, are yet of +infinite advantage to them; as they afford great numbers of fish, both +in Summer and Winter. The only species caught in those parts are trout, +tittameg, (or tickomeg,) tench, two sorts of barble, (called by the +Southern Indians Na-may-pith,) burbot, pike, and a few perch. The four +former are caught in all parts of this country, as well the woody as the +barren; but the three latter are only caught to the Westward, in such +lakes and rivers as are situated among the woods; and though some of +those rivers lead to the barren ground, yet the {328} three last +mentioned species of fish are seldom caught beyond the edge of the +woods, not even in the Summer season. + +There is a black, hard, crumply moss, that grows on the rocks and large +stones in those parts, which is of infinite service to the natives, as +it sometimes furnishes them with a temporary subsistence, when no animal +food can be procured. This moss, when boiled, turns to a gummy +consistence, and is more clammy in the mouth than sago; it may, by +adding either moss or water, be made to almost any consistence. It is so +palatable, that all who taste it generally grow fond of it. It is +remarkably good and pleasing when used to thicken any kind of broth, but +it is generally most esteemed when boiled in fish-liquor. + +The only method practised by those people to catch fish either in Winter +or Summer, is by angling and setting nets; both of which methods is +attended with much superstition, ceremony, and unnecessary trouble; but +I will endeavour to describe them in as plain and brief a manner as +possible. + +When they make a new fishing-net, which is always composed of small +thongs cut from raw deer-skins, they take a number of birds bills and +feet, and tie them, a little apart from each other, to the head and foot +rope of the net, and at the four corners generally fasten some of the +toes and jaws of the otters and jackashes. The birds feet {329} and +bills made choice of on such occasions are generally those of the +laughing goose, wavey, (or white goose,) gulls, loons, and +black-heads[123]; and unless some or all of these be fastened to the +net, they will not attempt to put it into the water, as they firmly +believe it would not catch a single fish. + +A net thus accoutred is fit for setting whenever occasion requires, and +opportunity offers; but the first fish of whatever species caught in it, +are not to be sodden in the water, but broiled whole on the fire, and +the flesh carefully taken from the bones without dislocating one joint; +after which the bones are laid on the fire at full length and burnt. A +strict observance of these rules is supposed to be of the utmost +importance in promoting the future success of the new net; and a neglect +of them would render it not worth a farthing.[BQ] + +When they fish in rivers, or narrow channels that join two lakes +together, they could frequently, by tying two, three, or more nets +together, spread over the whole breadth of the channel, and intercept +every sizable fish that passed; but instead of that, they scatter the +nets at a considerable distance from each other, from a {330} +superstitious notion, that were they kept close together, one net would +be jealous of its neighbour, and by that means not one of them would +catch a single fish. + +The methods used, and strictly observed, when angling, are equally +absurd as those I have mentioned; for when they bait a hook, a +composition of four, five, or six articles, by way of charm, is +concealed under the bait, which is always sewed round the hook. In fact, +the only bait used by those people is in their opinion a composition of +charms, inclosed within a bit of fish skin, so as in some measure to +resemble a small fish. The things used by way of charm, are bits of +beavers tails and fat, otter's vents and teeth, musk-rat's guts and +tails, loon's vents, squirrel's testicles, the cruddled milk taken out +of the stomach of sucking fawns and calves, human hair, and numberless +other articles equally absurd. + +Every master of a family, and indeed almost every other person, +particularly the men, have a small bundle of such trash, which they +always carry with them, both in Summer and Winter; and without some of +those articles to put under their bait, few of them could be prevailed +upon to put a hook into the water, being fully persuaded that they may +as well sit in the tent, as attempt to angle without such assistance. +They have also a notion that fish of the same species inhabiting +different parts of the country, are fond of different things; so that +almost every {331} lake and river they arrive at, obliges them to alter +the composition of the charm. The same rule is observed on broiling the +first fruits of a new hook that is used for a new net; an old hook that +has already been successful in catching large fish is esteemed of more +value, than a handful of new ones which have never been tried. + +Deer also, as well as fish, are very numerous in many parts of this +country; particularly to the North of the sixtieth degree of latitude. +Alpine hares are in some parts of the barren ground pretty plentiful, +where also some herds of musk-oxen are to be met with; and to the +Westward, among the woods, there are some rabbits and partridges. With +all those seeming sources of plenty, however, one half of the +inhabitants, and perhaps the other half also, are frequently in danger +of being starved to death, owing partly to their want of oeconomy; and +most of these scenes of distress happen during their journies to and +from Prince of Wales's Fort, the only place at which they trade. + +When Northern Indians are at the Factory, they are very liable to steal +any thing they think will be serviceable; particularly iron hoops, small +bolts, spikes, carpenters tools, and, in short, all small pieces of +iron-work which they can turn to advantage, either for their own use, or +for the purpose of trading with such of their countrymen as seldom +visit the Company's Settlement: {332} among themselves, however, the +crime of theft is seldom heard of. + +When two parties of those Indians meet, the ceremonies which pass +between them are quite different from those made use of in Europe on +similar occasions; for when they advance within twenty or thirty yards +of each other, they make a full halt, and in general sit or lie down on +the ground, and do not speak for some minutes. At length one of them, +generally an elderly man, if any be in company, breaks silence, by +acquainting the other party with every misfortune that has befallen him +and his companions from the last time they had seen or heard of each +other; and also of all deaths and other calamities that have befallen +any other Indians during the same period, at least as many particulars +as have come to his knowledge. + +When the first has finished his oration, another aged orator, (if there +be any) belonging to the other party relates, in like manner, all the +bad news that has come to his knowledge; and both parties never fail to +plead poverty and famine on all occasions. If those orations contain any +news that in the least affect the other party, it is not long before +some of them begin to sigh and sob, and soon after break out into a loud +cry, which is generally accompanied by most of the grown persons of both +sexes; and sometimes it is common to see them all, men, women, and +children, in one universal howl. The young girls, in {333} particular, +are often very obliging on those occasions; for I never remember to have +seen a crying match (as I called it) but the greatest part of the +company assisted, although some of them had no other reason for it, but +that of seeing their companions do the same. When the first transports +of grief subside, they advance by degrees, and both parties mix with +each other, the men always associating with the men, and the women with +the women. If they have any tobacco among them, the pipes are passed +round pretty freely, and the conversation soon becomes general. As they +are on their first meeting acquainted with all the bad news, they have +by this time nothing left but good, which in general has so far the +predominance over the former, that in less than half an hour nothing but +smiles and cheerfulness are to be seen in every face; and if they be not +really in want, small presents of provisions, ammunition, and other +articles, often take place; sometimes merely as a gift, but more +frequently by way of trying whether they cannot get a greater present. + +They have but few diversions; the chief is shooting at a mark with bow +and arrows; and another out-door game, called Holl, which in some +measure resembles playing with quoits; only it is done with short clubs +sharp at one end. They also amuse themselves at times with dancing, +which is always performed in the night. It is remarkable that those +people, though a distinct nation, have never adopted any mode of dancing +of their own, or any songs to which {334} they can dance; so that when +anything of this kind is attempted, which is but seldom, they always +endeavour to imitate either the Dog-ribbed or Southern Indians, but more +commonly the former, as few of them are sufficiently acquainted either +with the Southern Indian language, or their manner of dancing. The +Dog-ribbed method is not very difficult to learn, as it only consists in +lifting the feet alternately from the ground in a very quick succession, +and as high as possible, without moving the body, which should be kept +quite still and motionless; the hands at the same time being closed, and +held close to the breast, and the head inclining forward. This diversion +is always performed quite naked, except the breech-cloth, and at times +that is also thrown off; and the dancers, who seldom exceed three or +four at a time, always stand close to the music. The music may, by +straining a point, be called both vocal and instrumental, though both +are sufficiently humble. The former is no more than a frequent +repetition of the words, hee, hee, hee, ho, ho, ho, &c. which, by a more +or less frequent repetition, dwelling longer on one word and shorter on +another, and raising and lowering the voice, produce something like a +tune, and has the desired effect. This is always accompanied by a drum +or tabor; and sometimes a kind of rattle is added, made with a piece of +dried buffalo skin, in shape exactly like an oil-flask, into which they +put a few shot or pebbles, which, when shook about, produces music +little inferior to the drum, though not so loud. + +{335} This mode of dancing naked is performed only by the men; for when +the women are ordered to dance, they always exhibit without the tent, to +music which is played within it; and though their method of dancing is +perfectly decent, yet it has still less meaning and action than that of +the men: for a whole heap of them crowd together in a straight line, and +just shuffle themselves a little from right to left, and back again in +the same line, without lifting their feet from the ground; and when the +music stops, they all give a little bend of the body and knee, somewhat +like an awkward curtsey, and pronounce, in a little shrill tone, h-e-e, +h-o-o-o-e. + +Beside these diversions, they have another simple in-door game, which is +that of taking a bit of wood, a button, or any other small thing, and +after shifting it from hand to hand several times, asking their +antagonist, which hand it is in? When playing at this game, which only +admits of two persons, each of them have ten, fifteen, or twenty small +chips of wood, like matches; and when one of the players guesses right, +he takes one of his antagonist's sticks, and lays it to his own; and he +that first gets all the sticks from the other in that manner, is said to +win the game, which is generally for a single load of powder and shot, +an arrow, or some other thing of inconsiderable value. + +The women never mix in any of their diversions, not even in dancing; for +when that is required of them, they {336} always exhibit without the +tent, as has been already observed; nor are they allowed to be present +at a feast. Indeed, the whole course of their lives is one continued +scene of drudgery, _viz._ carrying and hauling heavy loads, dressing +skins for clothing, curing their provisions, and practising other +necessary domestic duties which are required in a family, without +enjoying the least diversion of any kind, or relaxation, on any occasion +whatever; and except in the execution of those homely duties, in which +they are always instructed from their infancy, their senses seem almost +as dull and frigid as the zone they inhabit. There are indeed some +exceptions to be met with among them, and I suppose it only requires +indulgence and precept to make some of them as lofty and insolent as any +women in the world. Though they wear their hair at full length, and +never tie it up, like the Southern Indians; and though not one in fifty +of them is ever possessed of a comb, yet by a wonderful dexterity of the +fingers, and a good deal of patience, they make shift to stroke it out +so as not to leave two hairs entangled; but when their heads are +infested with vermin, from which very few of either sex are free, they +mutually assist each other in keeping them under. + +A scorbutic disorder, resembling the worst stage of the itch, +consumptions, and fluxes, are their chief disorders. The first of these, +though very troublesome, is never known to prove fatal, unless it be +accompanied with some inward complaint; but the two latter, with a few +{337} accidents, carries off great numbers of both sexes and all ages: +indeed few of them live to any great age, probably owing to the great +fatigue they undergo from their youth up, in procuring a subsistence for +themselves and their offspring. + +Though the scorbutic disorder above mentioned does appear to be +infectious, it is rare to see one have it without the whole tent's crew +being more or less affected with it; but this is by no means a proof of +its being contagious; I rather attribute it to the effects of some bad +water, or the unwholesomeness of some fish they may catch in particular +places, in the course of their wandering manner of life. Were it +otherwise, a single family would in a short time communicate it to the +whole tribe; but, on the contrary, the disease is never known to spread. +In the younger sort it always attacks the hands and feet, not even +sparing the palms and soles. Those of riper years generally have it +about the wrists, insteps, and posteriors; and in the latter +particularly, the blotches, or boils as they may justly be called, are +often as large as the top of a man's thumb. This disorder most +frequently makes its appearance in the Summer, while the Indians are out +on the barren ground; and though it is by no means reckoned dangerous, +yet it is so obstinate, as not to yield to any medicine that has ever +been applied to it while at the Company's Factory. And as the natives +themselves never make use of any medicines of their own preparing, +Nature alone works the cure, which is never performed in {338} less than +twelve or eighteen months; and some of them are troubled with this +disagreeable and loathsome disorder for years before they are perfectly +cured, and then a dark livid mark remains on those parts of the skin +which have been affected, for many years afterwards, and in some during +life. + +When any of the principal Northern Indians die, it is generally believed +that they are conjured to death, either by some of their own countrymen, +by some of the Southern Indians, or by some of the Esquimaux: too +frequently the suspicion falls on the latter tribe, which is the grand +reason of their never being at peace with those poor and distressed +people. For some time past, however, those Esquimaux who trade with our +sloops at Knapp's Bay, Navel's Bay, and Whale Cove, are in perfect peace +and friendship with the Northern Indians; which is entirely owing to the +protection they have for several years past received from the Chiefs at +the Company's Fort at Churchill River.[BR] But those of that tribe who +live so far to the {339} North, as not to have any intercourse with our +vessels, very often fall a sacrifice to the fury and superstition of the +{340} Northern Indians; who are by no means a bold or warlike people; +nor can I think from experience, that they are particularly guilty of +committing acts of wanton cruelty on any other part of the human race +beside the Esquimaux. Their hearts, however, are in general so +unsusceptible of tenderness, that they can view the deepest distress in +those who are not immediately related to them, without the least +emotion; not even half so much as the generality of mankind feel for the +sufferings of the meanest of the brute creation. I have been present +when one of them, imitating the groans, distorted features, and +contracted position, of a {341} man who had died in the most +excruciating pain, put the whole company, except myself, into the most +violent fit of laughter. + +The Northern Indians never bury their dead, but always leave the bodies +where they die, so that they are supposed to be devoured by beasts and +birds of prey; for which reason they will not eat foxes, wolves, ravens, +&c. unless it be through mere necessity. + +The death of a near relation affects them so sensibly, that they rend +all their cloths from their backs, and go naked, till some persons less +afflicted relieve them. After the death of a father, mother, husband, +wife, son, or brother, they mourn, as it may be called, for a whole +year, which they measure by the moons and seasons. Those mournful +periods are not distinguished by any particular dress, except that of +cutting off the hair; and the ceremony consists in almost perpetually +crying. Even when walking, as well as at all other intervals from sleep, +eating, and conversation, they make an odd howling noise, often +repeating the relationship of the deceased. But as this is in a great +measure mere form and custom, some of them have a method of softening +the harshness of the notes, and bringing them out in a more musical tone +than that in which they sing their songs. When they reflect seriously on +the loss of a good friend, however, it has such an effect on them for +the present, that they give an {342} uncommon loose to their grief. At +those times they seem to sympathise (through custom) with each other's +afflictions so much, that I have often seen several scores of them +crying in concert, when at the same time not above half a dozen of them +had any more reason for so doing than I had, unless it was to preserve +the old custom, and keep the others in countenance. The women are +remarkably obliging on such occasions; and as no restriction is laid on +them, they may with truth be said to cry with all their might and main; +but in common conversation they are obliged to be very moderate. + +They have a tradition among them, that the first person upon earth was a +woman, who, after having been some time alone, in her researches for +berries, which was then her only food, found an animal like a dog, which +followed her to the cave where she lived, and soon grew fond and +domestic. This dog, they say, had the art of transforming itself into +the shape of a handsome young man, which it frequently did at night, but +as the day approached, always resumed its former shape; so that the +woman looked on all that passed on those occasions as dreams and +delusions. These transformations were soon productive of the +consequences which at present generally follow such intimate connexions +between the two sexes, and the mother of the world began to advance in +her pregnancy. + +{343} Not long after this happened, a man of such a surprising height +that his head reached up to the clouds, came to level the land, which at +that time was a very rude mass; and after he had done this, by the help +of his walking-stick he marked out all the lakes, ponds, and rivers, +and immediately caused them to be filled with water. He then took the +dog, and tore it to pieces; the guts he threw into the lakes and rivers, +commanding them to become the different kinds of fish; the flesh he +dispersed over the land, commanding it to become different kinds of +beasts and land-animals; the skin he also tore in small pieces, and +threw it into the air, commanding it to become all kinds of birds; after +which he gave the woman and her offspring full power to kill, eat, and +never spare, for that he had commanded them to multiply for her use in +abundance. After this injunction, he returned to the place whence he +came, and has not been heard of since. + +RELIGION has not as yet begun to dawn among the Northern Indians; for +though their conjurors do indeed sing songs, and make long speeches, to +some beasts and birds of prey, as also to imaginary beings, which they +say assist them in performing cures on the sick, yet they, as well as +their credulous neighbours, are utterly destitute of every idea of +practical religion. It is true, some of them will reprimand their youth +for talking {344} disrespectfully of particular beasts and birds; but it +is done with so little energy, as to be often retorted back in derision. +Neither is this, nor their custom of not killing wolves and +quiquehatches, universally observed, and those who do it can only be +viewed with more pity and contempt than the others; for I always found +it arose merely from the greater degree of confidence which they had in +the supernatural power of their conjurors, which induced them to +believe, that talking lightly or disrespectfully of any thing they +seemed to approve, would materially affect their health and happiness in +this world: and I never found any of them that had the least idea of +futurity. Matonabbee, without one exception, was a man of as clear ideas +in other matters as any that I ever saw: he was not only a perfect +master of the Southern Indian language, and their belief, but could tell +a better story of our Saviour's birth and life, than one half of those +who call themselves Christians; yet he always declared to me, that +neither he, nor any of his countrymen, had an idea of a future state. +Though he had been taught to look on things of this kind as useless, his +own good sense had taught him to be an advocate for universal +toleration; and I have seen him several times assist at some of the most +sacred rites performed by the Southern Indians, apparently with as much +zeal, as if he had given as much credit to them as they did: and with +the same liberality of sentiment he would, I am persuaded, have assisted +at the altar {345} of a Christian church, or in a Jewish synagogue; not +with a view to reap any advantage himself, but merely, as he observed, +to assist others who believed in such ceremonies. + +Being thus destitute of all religious control, these people have, to use +Matonabbee's own words, "nothing to do but consult their own interest, +inclinations, and passions; and to pass through this world with as much +ease and contentment as possible, without any hopes of reward, or +painful fear of punishment, in the next." In this state of mind they +are, when in prosperity, the happiest of mortals; for nothing but +personal or family calamities can disturb their tranquillity, while +misfortunes of the lesser kind sit light on them. Like most other +uncivilized people, they bear bodily pain with great fortitude, though +in that respect I cannot think them equal to the Southern Indians. + +Old age is the greatest calamity that can befal a Northern Indian; for +when he is past labour, he is neglected, and treated with great +disrespect, even by his own children. They not only serve him last at +meals, but generally give him the coarsest and worst of the victuals: +and such of the skins as they do not chuse to wear, are made up in the +clumsiest manner into clothing for their aged parents; who, as they had, +in all probability, treated their fathers and mothers with the same +neglect, in {346} their turns, submitted patiently to their lot, even +without a murmur, knowing it to be the common misfortune attendant on +old age; so that they may be said to wait patiently for the melancholy +hour when, being no longer capable of walking, they are to be left +alone, to starve, and perish for want. This, however shocking and +unnatural it may appear, is nevertheless so common, that, among those +people, one half at least of the aged persons of both sexes absolutely +die in this miserable condition. + +The Northern Indians call the _Aurora Borealis_, Ed-thin; that is, +Deer:[BS] and when that meteor is very bright, they say that deer is +plentiful in that part of the atmosphere; but they have never yet +extended their ideas so far as to entertain hopes of tasting those +celestial animals. + +Beside this silly notion, they are very superstitious with respect to +the existence of several kinds of fairies, called by them Nant-e-na, +whom they frequently say they see, and who are supposed by them to +inhabit the different elements {347} of earth, sea, and air, according +to their several qualities. To one or other of those fairies they +usually attribute any change in their circumstances, either for the +better or worse; and as they are led into this way of thinking entirely +by the art of the conjurors, there is no such thing as any general mode +of belief; for those jugglers differ so much from each other in their +accounts of these beings, that those who believe any thing they say, +have little to do but change their opinions according to the will and +caprice of the conjuror, who is almost daily relating some new whim, or +extraordinary event, which, he says, has been revealed to him in a +dream, or by some of his favourite fairies, when on a hunting excursion. + + + {348} _Some Account of_ MATONABBEE, _and of the eminent Services + which he rendered to his Country, as well as to the Hudson's Bay + Company._ + +MATONABBEE was the son of a Northern Indian by a slave woman, who was +formerly bought from some Southern Indians who came to Prince of Wales's +Fort with furrs, &c. This match was made by Mr. Richard Norton, then +Governor, who detained them at and near the Fort, for the same purpose +as he did those Indians called Home-guard. As to Matonabbee's real age, +it is impossible to be particular; for the natives of those parts being +utterly unacquainted with letters, or the use of hieroglyphics, though +their memories are not less retentive than those of other nations, +cannot preserve and transmit to posterity the exact time when any +particular event happens. Indeed, the utmost extent of their chronology +reaches no farther, than to say, My son, or my daughter, was born in +such a Governor's time, and such an event happened during such a +person's life-time (though, perhaps, he or she has been dead many +years). However, according to appearance, and some corroborating +circumstances, Matonabbee was born about the year one thousand seven +hundred and thirty-six, or one thousand seven hundred and thirty-seven; +and his father dying while he was young, the Governor took the {349} +boy, and, according to the Indian custom, adopted him as his son. + +Soon after the death of Matonabbee's father, Mr. Norton went to England, +and as the boy did not experience from his successor the same regard and +attention which he had been accustomed to receive from Mr. Norton, he +was soon taken from the Factory by some of his father's relations, and +continued with the Northern Indians till Mr. Ferdinand Jacobs succeeded +to the command of Prince of Wales's Fort, in the year one thousand seven +hundred and fifty-two; when out of regard to old Mr. Norton, (who was +then dead,) Mr. Jacobs took the first opportunity that offered to detain +Matonabbee at the Factory, where he was for several years employed in +the hunting-service with some of the Company's servants, particularly +with the late Mr. Moses Norton,[BT] (son of the late Governor,) and Mr. +Magnus Johnston.[BU] + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. W. Tyrrell, 1905._ +GATEWAY OF FORT PRINCE OF WALES] + +[Illustration: _Photo: J. W. Tyrrell, October 1894._ +INTERIOR OF FORT PRINCE OF WALES, SHOWING WALLS OF OLD DWELLING-HOUSE] + +In the course of his long stay at and near the Fort, it is no wonder +that he should have become perfect master of the Southern Indian +language, and made some progress in the English. It was during this +period, that he gained a knowledge of the Christian faith; and he always +declared, that it was too deep and intricate for his comprehension. +Though he was a perfect bigot with respect to {350} the arts and tricks +of Indian jugglers, yet he could by no means be impressed with a belief +of any part of our religion, nor of the religion of the Southern +Indians, who have as firm a belief in a future state as any people under +the Sun. He had so much natural good sense and liberality of sentiment, +however, as not to think that he had a right to ridicule any particular +sect on account of their religious opinions. On the contrary, he +declared, that he held them all equally in esteem, but was determined, +as he came into the world, so he would go out of it, without professing +any religion at all. Notwithstanding his aversion from religion, I have +met with few Christians who possessed more good moral qualities, or +fewer bad ones. + +It is impossible for any man to have been more punctual in the +performance of a promise than he was; his scrupulous adherence to truth +and honesty would have done honour to the most enlightened and devout +Christian, while his benevolence and universal humanity to all the human +race,[BV] according to his abilities and manner of life, could {351} not +be exceeded by the most illustrious personage now on record; and to add +to his other good qualities, he was the only Indian that I ever saw, +except one, who was not guilty of backbiting and slandering his +neighbours. + +In stature, Matonabbee was above the common size, being nearly six feet +high[BW]; and, except that his neck was rather (though not much) too +short, he was one of the finest and best proportioned men that I ever +saw. In complexion he was dark, like the other Northern Indians, but his +face was not disfigured by that ridiculous custom of marking the cheeks +with three or four black lines. His features were regular and agreeable, +and yet so strongly marked and expressive, that they formed a complete +index of his mind; which, as he never intended to deceive or dissemble, +he never wished to conceal. In conversation he was easy, lively, and +agreeable, but exceedingly modest; and at table, the nobleness and +elegance of his manners might have been admired by the first personages +in the world; for to the vivacity of a Frenchman, and the {352} +sincerity of an Englishman, he added the gravity and nobleness of a +Turk; all so happily blended, as to render his company and conversation +universally pleasing to those who understood either the Northern or +Southern Indian languages, the only languages in which he could +converse. + +He was remarkably fond of Spanish wines, though he never drank to +excess; and as he would not partake of spirituous liquors, however fine +in quality or plainly mixed, he was always master of himself. As no man +is exempt from frailties, it is natural to suppose that as a man he had +his share; but the greatest with which I can charge him, is jealousy, +and that sometimes carried him beyond the bounds of humanity. + +In his early youth he discovered talents equal to the greatest task that +could possibly be expected from an Indian. Accordingly Mr. Jacobs, then +Governor at Prince of Wales's Fort, engaged him, when but a youth, as an +Ambassador and Mediator between the Northern Indians and the Athapuscow +Tribe, who till then had always been at war with each other. In the +course of this embassy Matonabbee not only discovered the most brilliant +and solid parts, but shewed an extensive knowledge of every advantage +that could arise to both nations from a total suppression of +hostilities; and at times he displayed such instances of personal +courage and magnanimity, as are rarely to be found among persons of +superior condition and rank. + +{353} He had not penetrated far into the country of the Athapuscow +Indians, before he came to several tents with inhabitants; and there, to +his great surprise, he found Captain Keelshies, (a person frequently +mentioned in this Journal,[BX]) who was then a prisoner, with all his +family and some of his friends, the fate of whom was then undetermined; +but through the means of Matonabbee, though young enough to have been +his son, Keelshies and a few others were released, with the loss of his +effects and all his wives, which were six in number. Matonabbee not only +kept his ground after Keelshies and his small party had been permitted +to return, but made his way into the very heart of the Athapuscow +country, in order to have a personal conference with all or most of the +principal inhabitants. The farther he advanced, the more occasion he had +for intrepidity. At one time he came to five tents of those savages, +which in the whole contained sixteen men, besides their wives, children, +and servants, while he himself was entirely alone, except one wife and a +servant boy. The Southern Indians, ever treacherous, and apparently the +more kind when they are premeditating mischief, seemed to give him a +hearty welcome, accepted the tenders of peace and reconciliation with +apparent satisfaction, and, as a mark of their approbation, each tent in +rotation made a feast, or entertainment, the {354} same night, and +invited him to partake; at the last of which they had concerted a scheme +to murder him. He was, however, so perfect a master of the Southern +Indian language, that he soon discovered their design, and told them, he +was not come in a hostile manner, but if they attempted any thing of the +kind he was determined to sell his life as dear as possible. On hearing +this, some of them ordered that his servant, gun, and snow-shoes, (for +it was winter,) should be brought into the tent and secured; but he +sprung from his seat, seized his gun and snow-shoes, and went out of the +tent, telling them, if they had an intention to molest him, that was the +proper place where he could see his enemy, and be under no apprehensions +of being shot cowardly through the back. "I am sure (said he) of killing +two or three of you, and if you chuse to purchase my life at that price, +now is the time; but if otherwise, let me depart without any farther +molestation." They then told him he was at liberty to go, on condition +of leaving his servant; but to this he would not consent. He then rushed +into the tent and took his servant by force from two men; when finding +there was no appearance of farther danger, he set out on his return to +the frontiers of his own country, and from thence to the Factory. + +The year following he again visited the Athapuscow country, accompanied +by a considerable number of chosen {355} men of his own nation, who were +so far superior to such small parties of the Southern Indians as they +had met, that they commanded respect wherever they came; and having +traversed the whole country, and conversed with all the principal men, +peace and friendship were apparently re-established. Accordingly, when +the Spring advanced the Northern Indians began to disperse, and draw out +to the Eastward on the barren ground; but Matonabbee, and a few others, +chose to pass the Summer in the Athapuscow country. As soon as the +Southern Indians were acquainted with this design, and found the number +of the Northern Indians so reduced, a superior number of them dogged and +harassed them the whole Summer, with a view to surprise and kill them +when asleep; and with that view twice actually approached so near their +tents as fifty yards. But Matonabbee told them, as he had done when +alone, that though there were but few of them, they were all determined +to sell their lives as dear as possible: on which the Southern Indians, +without making any reply, retired; for no Indians in this country have +the courage to face their enemies when they find them apprized of their +approach, and on their guard to receive them. + +Notwithstanding all these discouragements and great dangers, Matonabbee +persevered with courage and resolution to visit the Athapuscow Indians +for several years successively; and at length, by an uniform display of +his pacific disposition, and by rendering a long train of good {356} +offices to those Indians, in return for their treachery and perfidy, he +was so happy as to be the sole instrument of not only bringing about a +lasting peace, but also of establishing a trade and reciprocal interest +between the two nations. + +After having performed this great work, he was prevailed upon to visit +the Copper-mine River, in company with a famous leader, called +I-dat-le-aza; and it was from the report of those two men, that a +journey to that part was proposed to the Hudson's Bay Company by the +late Mr. Moses Norton, in one thousand seven hundred and sixty-nine. In +one thousand seven hundred and seventy he was engaged as the principal +guide on that expedition; which he performed with greater punctuality, +and more to my satisfaction, than perhaps any other Indian in all that +country would have done. At his return to the Fort in one thousand seven +hundred and seventy-two, he was made head of all the Northern Indian +nation; and continued to render great services to the Company during his +life, by bringing a greater quantity of furrs to their Factory at +Churchill River, than any other Indian ever did, or ever will do. His +last visit to Prince of Wales's Fort was in the Spring of one thousand +seven hundred and eighty-two, and he intended to have repeated it in the +Winter following; but when he heard that the French had destroyed the +Fort, and carried off all the Company's servants, he never afterwards +reared his head, but took an opportunity, when no one {357} suspected +his intention, to hang himself. This is the more to be wondered at, as +he is the only Northern Indian who, that I ever heard, put an end to his +own existence. The death of this man was a great loss to the Hudson's +Bay Company, and was attended with a most melancholy scene; no less than +the death of six of his wives, and four children, all of whom were +starved to death the same Winter, in one thousand seven hundred and +eighty-three. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[BO] I have seen several of the Southern Indian men who were near six +feet high, preserve a single lock of their hair, that, when let down, +would trail on the ground as they walked. This, however, is but seldom +seen; and some have suspected it to be false: but I have examined the +hair of several of them, and found it to be real. + +[BP] The Indian method of preparing this unaccountable dish is by +throwing the filthy bag across a pole directly over the fire, the smoke +of which, they say, much improves it, by taking off the original +flavour; and when any of it is to be cooked, a large flake, like as much +tripe, is cut off and boiled for a few minutes; but the many large nodes +with which the inside of the womb is studded, make it abominable. These +nodes are as incapable of being divested of moisture as the skin of a +live eel; but when boiled, much resemble, both in shape and colour, the +yolk of an egg, and are so called by the natives, and as eagerly +devoured by them. + +The tripe of the buffalo is exceedingly good, and the Indian method of +cooking it infinitely superior to that practised in Europe. When +opportunity will permit, they wash it tolerably clean in cold water, +strip off all the honey-comb, and only boil it about half, or +three-quarters of an hour: in that time it is sufficiently done for +eating; and though rather tougher than what is prepared in England, yet +is exceedingly pleasant to the taste, and must be much more nourishing +than tripe that has been soaked and scrubbed in many hot waters, and +then boiled for ten or twelve hours. + +The lesser stomach, or, as some call it, the many-folds, either of +buffalo, moose, or deer, are usually eat raw, and are very good; but +that of the moose, unless great care be taken in washing it, is rather +bitter, owing to the nature of their food. + +The kidneys of both moose and buffalo are usually eat raw by the +Southern Indians; for no sooner is one of those beasts killed, than the +hunter rips up its belly, thrusts in his arm, snatches out the kidneys, +and eats them warm, before the animal is quite dead. They also at times +put their mouths to the wound the ball has made, and suck the blood; +which they say quenches thirst, and is very nourishing. + +[122] _Larix laricina_ (Du Roi.). + +[123] For fuller reference to these birds see pp. 396-405. + +[BQ] They frequently sell new nets, which have not been wet more than +once or twice, because they have not been successful. Those nets, when +soaked in water, are easily opened, and then make most excellent heel +and toe netting for snow-shoes. In general it is far superior to the +netting cut by the Southern Indian women, and is not larger than common +net-twine. + +[BR] In the Summer of 1756, a party of Northern Indians lay in wait at +Knapp's Bay till the sloop had sailed out of the harbour, when they fell +on the poor Esquimaux, and killed every soul. Mr. John Bean, then Master +of the sloop, and since Master of the Trinity yacht, with all his crew, +heard the guns very plain; but did not know the meaning or reason of it +till the Summer following, when he found the shocking remains of more +than forty Esquimaux, who had been murdered in that cowardly manner; and +for no other reason but because two principal Northern Indians had died +in the preceding Winter. + +No Esquimaux were seen at Knapp's Bay for several years after; and those +who trade there at present have undoubtedly been drawn from the +Northward, since the above unhappy transaction; for the convenience of +being nearer the woods, as well as being in the way of trading with the +sloop that calls there annually. It is to be hoped that the measures +taken by the Governors at Prince of Wales's Fort of late years, will +effectually prevent any such calamities happening in future, and by +degrees be the means of bringing about a lasting, friendly, and +reciprocal interest between the two nations. + +Notwithstanding the pacific and friendly terms which begin to dawn +between those two tribes at Knapp's Bay, Navel's Bay, and Whale Cove, +farther North hostilities continue, and most barbarous murders are +perpetrated: and the only protection the Esquimaux have from the fury of +their enemies, is their remote situation in the Winter, and their +residing chiefly on islands and peninsulas in Summer, which renders them +less liable to be surprised during that Season. But even this secluded +life does not prevent the Northern Indians from harassing them greatly, +and at times they are so closely pursued as to be obliged to leave most +of their goods and utensils to be destroyed by their enemy; which must +be a great loss, as these cannot be replaced but at the expence of much +time and labour; and the want of them in the meantime must create much +distress both to themselves and their families, as they can seldom +procure any part of their livelihood without the assistance of a +considerable apparatus. + +In 1756, the Esquimaux at Knapp's Bay sent two of their youths to Prince +of Wales's Fort in the sloop, and the Summer following they were carried +back to their friends, loaded with presents, and much pleased with the +treatment they received while at the Fort. In 1767, they again sent one +from Knapp's Bay and one from Whale Cove; and though during their stay +at the Fort they made a considerable progress both in the Southern +Indian and the English languages, yet those intercourses have not been +any ways advantageous to the Company, by increasing the trade from that +quarter. In fact, the only satisfaction they have found for the great +expence they have from time to time incurred, by introducing those +strangers, is, that through the good conduct of their upper servants at +Churchill River, they have at length so far humanized the hearts of +those two tribes, that at present they can meet each other in a friendly +manner; whereas, a few years since, whenever they met, each party +premeditated the destruction of the other; and what made their war more +shocking was, they never gave quarter: so that the strongest party +always killed the weakest, without sparing either man, woman, or child. + +It is but a few years ago that the sloop's crew who annually carried +them all their wants, durst not venture on shore among the Esquimaux +unarmed, for fear of being murdered; but latterly they are so civilized, +that the Company's servants visit their tents with the greatest freedom +and safety, are always welcome, and desired to partake of such +provisions as they have: and knowing now our aversion from train-oil, +they take every means in their power to convince our people that the +victuals prepared for them is entirely free from it. But the smell of +their tents, cooking-utensils, and other furniture, is scarcely less +offensive than Greenland Dock. However, I have eaten both fish and +venison cooked by them in so cleanly a manner, that I have relished them +very much, and partaken of them with a good appetite. + +[BS] Their ideas in this respect are founded on a principle one would +not imagine. Experience has shewn them, that when a hairy deer-skin is +briskly stroked with the hand in a dark night, it will emit many sparks +of electrical fire, as the back of a cat will. The idea which the +Southern Indians have of this meteor is equally romantic, though more +pleasing, as they believe it to be the spirits of their departed friends +dancing in the clouds; and when the _Aurora Borealis_ is remarkably +bright, at which time they vary most in colour, form, and situation, +they say, their deceased friends are very merry. + +[BT] Afterwards Governor. + +[BU] Master of the Churchill sloop. + +[BV] I must here observe, that when we went to war with the Esquimaux at +the Copper River in July 1771, it was by no means his proposal: on the +contrary, he was forced into it by his countrymen. For I have heard him +say, that when he first visited that river, in company with +I-dot-le-aza, they met with several Esquimaux; and so far from killing +them, were very friendly to them, and made them small presents of such +articles as they could best spare, and that would be of most use to +them. It is more than probable that the two bits of iron found among the +plunder while I was there, were part of those presents. There were also +a few long beads found among those people, but quite different from any +that the Hudson's Bay Company had ever sent to the Bay; so that the only +probable way they could have come by them, must have been by an +intercourse with some of their tribe, who had dealings with the Danes in +Davis's Straits. It is very probable, however, they might have passed +through many hands before they reached this remote place. Had they had +an immediate intercourse with the Esquimaux in Davis's Straits, it is +natural to suppose that iron would not have been so scarce among them as +it seemed to be; indeed the distance is too great to admit of it. + +[BW] I have seen two Northern Indians who measured six feet three +inches; and one, six feet four inches. + +[BX] The same person was at Prince of Wales's Fort when the French +arrived on the 8th of August 1782, and saw them demolish the Fort. + + + + +{358} CHAP. X.[124] + + _An Account of the principal Quadrupeds found in the Northern + Parts of Hudson's Bay.--The Buffalo, Moose, Musk-ox, Deer, and + Beaver--A capital Mistake cleared up respecting the + We-was-kish._ + + _Animals with Canine Teeth.--The Wolf--Foxes of various + colours--Lynx, or Wild Cat--Polar, or White Bear--Black + Bear--Brown Bear--Wolverene--Otter--Jackash--Wejack--Skunk--Pine + Martin--Ermine, or Stote._ + + _Animals with cutting Teeth.--The Musk + Beaver--Porcupine--Varying Hare--American Hare--Common + Squirrel--Ground Squirrel--Mice of various Kinds,--and the + Castor Beaver._ + + _The Pinnated Quadrupeds with finlike Feet, found in Hudson's + Bay, are but three in number,_ viz. _the Walrus, or + Sea-Horse,--Seal,--and Sea-Unicorn._ + + * * * * * + + _The Species of Fish found in the Salt Water of Hudson's Bay are + also few in number; being the Black Whale--White + Whale--Salmon--and Kepling._ + + _Shell-fish, and empty Shells of several kinds, found on the Sea + Coast near Churchill River._ + + * * * * * + + _Frogs of various sizes and colours; also a great variety of + Grubbs, and other Insects, always found in a frozen state during + Winter, but when exposed to the heat of a slow fire, are soon + re-animated._ + + _An Account of some of the principal Birds found in the Northern + Parts of Hudson's Bay; as well those that only migrate there in + Summer, as those that are known to brave the coldest + Winters:--Eagles of various_ {359} _kinds--Hawks of various + sizes and plumage--White or Snowy Owl--Grey or mottled + Owl--Cob-a-dee-cooch--Raven--Cinerious Crow--Wood Pecker--Ruffed + Grouse--Pheasant--Wood Partridge--Willow Partridge--Rock + Partridge--Pigeon--Red-breasted Thrush--Grosbeak--Snow + Bunting--White-crowned Bunting--Lapland Finch, two + sorts--Lark--Titmouse--Swallow--Martin--Hopping Crane--Brown + Crane--Bitron--Carlow, two sorts--Jack Snipe--Red + Godwart--Plover--Black Gullemet--Northern Diver--Black-throated + Diver--Red-throated Diver--White Gull--Grey + Gull--Black-head--Pellican--Goosander--Swans of two + species--Common Grey Goose--Canada Goose--White or Snow + Goose--Blue Goose--Horned Wavy--Laughing Goose--Barren + Goose--Brent Goose--Dunter Goose--Bean Goose._ + + _The Species of Water-Fowl usually called Duck, that resort to + those Parts annually, are in great variety; but those that are + most esteemed are, the Mallard Duck,--Long-tailed Duck,--Wigeon, + and Teal._ + + * * * * * + + _Of the Vegetable Productions as far North as Churchill River, + particularly the most useful; such as the Berry-bearing Bushes, + &c.--Gooseberry--Cranberry--Heathberry--Dewater-berry--Black + Currans--Juniper-berry--Partridge-berry--Strawberry--Eye-berry-- + Blue-Berry--and a small species of Hips._ + + _Burridge--Coltsfoot--Sorrel--Dandelion._ + + _Wish-a-capucca--Jackashey-puck--Moss of various sorts--Grass of + several kinds--and Vetches._ + + _The Trees found so far North near the Sea, consist only of + Pines--Juniper--Small Poplar--Bush-willows--and Creeping Birch._ + + +Before I conclude this work, it may not be improper to give a short +account of the principal Animals that frequent the high Northern +latitudes, though most of them are found also far to the Southward, and +consequently {360} in much milder climates. The buffalo, musk-ox, deer, +and the moose,[125] have been already described in this Journal. I shall +therefore only make a few remarks on the latter, in order to rectify a +mistake, which, from wrong information, has crept into Mr. Pennant's +Arctic Zoology. In page 21 of that elegant work, he classes the Moose +with the We-was-kish, though it certainly has not any affinity to it. + +The We-was-kish,[126] or as some (though improperly) call it, the +Waskesse, is quite a different animal from the moose, being by no means +so large in size. The horns of the We-was-kish are something similar to +those of the common deer, but are not palmated in any part. They stand +more upright, have fewer branches, and want the brow-antler. The head of +this animal is so far from being like that of the Moose, that the nose +is sharp, like the nose of a sheep: indeed, the whole external +appearance of the head is not very unlike that of an ass. The hair is +usually of a sandy red; and they are frequently called by the English +who visit the interior parts of the country, red deer. Their flesh is +tolerable eating; but the fat is as hard as tallow, and if eaten as hot +as possible, will yet chill in so short a time, that it clogs the teeth, +and sticks to the roof of the mouth, in such a manner as to render it +very disagreeable. In the Spring of one thousand seven hundred and +seventy-five, I had thirteen sledge-loads of this meat brought to +Cumberland House in one day, and also two of the heads of this animal +unskinned, but the horns {361} were chopped off; a proof of their +wearing them the whole Winter. They are the most stupid of all the deer +kind, and frequently make a shrill whistling, and quivering noise, not +very unlike the braying of an ass, which directs the hunter to the very +spot where they are. They generally keep in large herds, and when they +find plenty of pasture, remain a long time in one place. Those deer are +seldom an object of chace with the Indians bordering on Basquiau, except +when moose and other game fail. Their skins, when dressed, very much +resemble that of the moose, though they are much thinner, and have this +peculiar quality, that they will wash as well as shamoy leather; whereas +all the other leathers and pelts dressed by the Indians, if they get +wet, turn quite hard, unless great care be taken to keep constantly +rubbing them while drying. + +The person who informed Mr. Pennant that the we-was-kish and the moose +are the same animal, never saw one of them; and the only reason he had +to suppose it, was the great resemblance of their skins: yet it is +rather strange, that so indefatigable a collector of Natural History as +the late Mr. Andrew Graham, should have omitted making particular +enquiry about them: for any foreign Indian, particularly those that +reside near Basquiau, could easily have convinced him to the contrary. + + +{362} _Animals with Canine Teeth._ + +[Sidenote: Wolves.] + +WOLVES[127] are frequently met with in the countries West of Hudson's +Bay, both on the barren grounds and among the woods, but they are not +numerous; it is very uncommon to see more than three or four of them in +a herd. Those that keep to the Westward, among the woods, are generally +of the usual colour, but the greatest part of those that are killed by +the Esquimaux are perfectly white. All the wolves in Hudson's Bay are +very shy of the human race, yet when sharp set, they frequently follow +the Indians for several days, but always keep at a distance. They are +great enemies to the Indian dogs, and frequently kill and eat those that +are heavy loaded, and cannot keep up with the main body. The Northern +Indians have formed strange ideas of this animal, as they think it does +not eat its victuals raw; but by a singular and wonderful sagacity, +peculiar to itself, has a method of cooking them without fire. The +females are much swifter than the males; for which reason the Indians, +both Northern and Southern, are of opinion that they kill the greatest +part of the game. + +This cannot, however, always be the case; for to the North of Churchill +they, in general, live a forlorn life all the Winter, and are seldom +seen in pairs till the Spring, when they begin to couple; and generally +keep in pairs all the Summer. They always burrow under-ground to bring +forth their young; and though it is natural {363} to suppose them very +fierce at those times, yet I have frequently seen the Indians go to +their dens, and take out the young ones and play with them. I never knew +a Northern Indian hurt one of them: on the contrary, they always put +them carefully into the den again; and I have sometimes seen them paint +the faces of the young Wolves with vermillion, or red ochre. + +[Sidenote: Foxes of various colours.] + +The ARCTIC FOXES[128] are in some years remarkably plentiful, but +generally most so on the barren ground, near the sea-coast. +Notwithstanding what has been said of this animal only visiting the +settlements once in five or seven years,[129] I can affirm there is not +one year in twenty that they are not caught in greater or less numbers +at Churchill; and I have known that for three years running, not less +than from two hundred to four hundred have been caught each year within +thirty miles of the Fort. They always come from the North along the +coast, and generally make their appearance at Churchill about the middle +of October, but their skins are seldom in season till November; during +that time they are never molested, but permitted to feed round the Fort, +till by degrees they become almost domestic. The great numbers of those +animals that visit Churchill River in some years do not all come in a +body, as it would be impossible for the fourth part of them to find +subsistence by the way; but when they come near the Fort, the carcasses +of dead whales lying along the shores, and the skin and other offal, +after boiling the oil, {364} afford them a plentiful repast, and prove +the means of keeping them about the Fort till, by frequent +reinforcements from the Northward, their numbers are so far increased as +almost to exceed credibility. + +When their skins are in season, a number of traps and guns are set, and +the greatest part of them are caught in one month, though some few are +found during the whole Winter. I have frequently known near forty killed +in one night within half a mile of Prince of Wales's Fort; but this +seldom happens after the first or second night. When Churchill River is +frozen over near the mouth, the greatest part of the surviving white +Foxes cross the river, and direct their course to the Southward, and in +some years assemble in considerable numbers at York Fort and Severn +River. Whether they are all killed, or what becomes of those which +escape, is very uncertain; but it is well known that none of them ever +migrate again to the Northward. Besides taking a trap so freely, they +are otherwise so simple, that I have seen them shot off-hand while +feeding, the same as sparrows in a heap of chaff, sometimes two or three +at a shot. This sport is always most successful in moon-light nights; +for in the daytime they generally keep in their holes among the rocks, +and under the hollow ice at high-water-mark. + +These animals will prey on each other as readily as on any other animals +they find dead in a trap, or wounded by gun; which renders them so +destructive, that I have known upwards of one hundred and twenty Foxes +of different {365} colours eaten, and destroyed in their traps by their +comrades in the course of one Winter, within half a mile of the Fort. + +The Naturalists seem still at a loss to know their breeding-places, +which are doubtless in every part of the coast they frequent. Several of +them breed near Churchill, and I have seen them in considerable numbers +all along the West coast of Hudson's Bay, particularly at Cape +Esquimaux, Navel's Bay, and Whale Cove, also on Marble Island; so that +with some degree of confidence we may affirm, that they breed on every +part of the coast they inhabit during the Summer season. They generally +have from three to five young at a litter; more I never saw with one old +one. When young they are all over almost of a sooty black, but as the +fall advances, the belly, sides, and tail turn to a light ash-colour; +the back, legs, some part of the face, and the tip of the tail, changes +to a lead colour; but when the Winter sets in they become perfectly +white: the ridge of the back and the tip of the tail are the last places +that change to that colour; and there are few of them which have not a +few dark hairs at the tip of the tail all the Winter. If taken young, +they are easily domesticated in some degree, but I never saw one that +was fond of being caressed; and they are always impatient of +confinement. + +[Sidenote: The White Fox.] + +WHITE FOXES, when killed at any considerable distance from the sea +coast, (where they cannot possibly get any {366} thing to prey upon, +except rabbits, mice, and partridges,) are far from being disagreeable +eating. And on Marble Island I have shot them when they were equal in +flavour to a rabbit; probably owing to their feeding entirely on eggs +and young birds; but near Churchill River they are as rank as train-oil. + +[Sidenote: The Lynx, or Wild Cat.] + +The LYNX, or WILD CAT,[130] is very scarce to the North of Churchill; +but is exactly the same as those which are found in great plenty to the +South West. I have observed the tracks of this animal at Churchill, and +seen them killed, and have eaten of their flesh in the neighbourhood of +York Fort. The flesh is white, and nearly as good as that of a rabbit. +They are, I think, much larger than that which is described in the +Arctic Zoology; they never approach near the settlements in Hudson's +Bay, and are very destructive to rabbits; they seldom leave a place +which is frequented by rabbits till they have nearly killed them all. + +[Sidenote: The Polar or White Bear.] + +The POLAR or WHITE BEAR,[131] though common on the sea-coast, is seldom +found in its Winter retreats by any of our Northern Indians, except near +Churchill River; nor do I suppose that the Esquimaux see or kill any of +them more frequently during that season; for in the course of many years +residence at Churchill River, I scarcely ever saw a Winter skin brought +from the Northward by the sloop. Probably the Esquimaux, if they kill +any, may {367} reserve the skins for their own use; for at that season +their hair is very long, with a thick bed of wool at the bottom, and +they are remarkably clean and white. The Winter is the only season that +so oily a skin as the Bear's can possibly be cleaned and dressed by +those people, without greasing the hair, which is very unpleasant to +them; for though they eat train-oil, _&c._ yet they are as careful as +possible to keep their clothes from being greased with it. To dress one +of those greasy skins in Winter, as soon as taken from the beast, it is +stretched out on a smooth patch of snow, and there staked down, where it +soon freezes as hard as a board: while in that state, the women scrape +off all the fat, till they come to the very roots of the hair. It is +sometimes permitted to remain in that position for a considerable time; +and when taken from the snow, is hung up in the open air. The more +intense the frost, the greater is its drying quality; and by being +wafted about by the wind, with a little scraping, it in time becomes +perfectly supple, and both pelt and hair beautifully white. Drying deer, +beaver, and otter skins, in this manner render their pelts very white, +but not supple; probably owing to the close texture and thickness of +their skins; whereas the skin of the bear, though so large an animal, is +remarkably thin and spungy.[BY] + +[Sidenote: The Black Bear.] + +{368} BLACK BEARS[132] are not very numerous to the North West of +Churchill. Their manner of life is the same as the rest of the species, +though the face of the country they {369} inhabit, differs widely from +the more mild climates. In Summer they proul about in search of berries, +_&c._ and as the Winter approaches, retire to their dens, which are +always under-ground; and generally, if not always, on the side of a +small hillock. The Bears that inhabit the Southern parts of America are +said to take up their Winter abode in hollow trees; but I never saw any +trees in my Northern travels, that could afford any such shelter. + +The places of retreat of those Bears that burrow under-ground are easily +discovered in Winter, by the rime that hangs about the mouth of the den; +for let the snow be ever so deep, the heat and breath of the animal +prevents the mouth of the den from being entirely closed up. They +generally retire to their Winter quarters before the snow is of any +considerable depth, and never come abroad again (unless disturbed) till +the thaws are considerable, which in those high latitudes is seldom till +the latter end of March, or the beginning of April; so that the few +Black Bears that inhabit those cold regions may be said to subsist for +four months at least without food. I have been present at the killing +[of] two of them in Winter; and the Northern Indian method is similar to +that said to be in use among the Kamtschatkans; for they always blocked +up the mouth of the den with logs of wood, then broke open the top of +it, and killed the animal either with a spear or a gun; but the latter +method is reckoned both cowardly and wasteful, as it is not possible for +the Bear either to make its escape, or to do the Indians the least +injury. {370} Sometimes they put a snare about the Bear's neck, and draw +up his head close to the hole, and kill him with a hatchet. Though those +animals are but scarce to the North of Churchill, yet they are so +numerous between York Fort and Cumberland House, that in one thousand +seven hundred and seventy-four I saw eleven killed in the course of one +day's journey, but their flesh was abominable. This was in the month of +June, long before any fruit was ripe, for the want of which they then +fed entirely on water insects, which in some of the lakes we crossed +that day were in astonishing multitudes.[BZ][133] + +The method by which the Bears catch those insects is by swimming with +their mouths open, in the same manner as the whales do, when feeding on +the sea-spider. There was not one of the Bears killed that day, which +had not its stomach as full of those insects (only) as ever a hog's was +with grains, and when cut open, the stench from them was intolerable. I +have, however, eaten of some killed at that early season which were very +good; {371} but they were found among the woods, far from the places +where those insects haunt, and had fed on grass and other herbage. After +the middle of July, when the berries begin to ripen, they are excellent +eating, and so continue till January or February following; but late in +the Spring they are, by long fasting, very poor and dry eating. + +The Southern Indians kill great numbers of those Bears at all seasons of +the year; but no encouragement can prevent them from singeing almost +every one that is in good condition: so that the few skins they do save +and bring to the market, are only of those which are so poor that their +flesh is not worth eating.[CA] In fact, the skinning of a Bear spoils +the meat thereof, as much as it would do to skin a young porker, or a +roasting pig. The same may be said of swans (the skins of which the +Company have lately made an article of trade); otherwise thousands of +their skins might be brought to market annually, by the Indians that +trade with the Hudson's Bay Company's servants at the different +settlements about the Bay. + +[Sidenote: The Brown Bear.] + +BROWN BEARS[134] are, I believe, never found in the North-Indian +territories: but I saw the skin of an enormous {372} grizzled Bear at +the tents of the Esquimaux at the Copper River;[135] and many of them +are said to breed not very remote from that part. + +[Sidenote: The Wolverene.] + +The WOLVERENE[136] is common in the Northern regions, as far North as +the Copper River, and perhaps farther. They are equally the inhabitants +of woods and barren grounds; for the Esquimaux to the North of Churchill +kill many of them when their skins are in excellent season: a proof of +their being capable of braving the severest cold. They are very slow in +their pace, but their wonderful sagacity, strength, and acute scent, +make ample amends for that defect; for they are seldom killed at any +season when they do not prove very fat: a great proof of their being +excellent providers. With respect to the fierceness of this animal which +some assert, I can say little, but I know them to be beasts of great +courage and resolution, for I once saw one of them take possession of a +deer that an Indian had killed, and though the Indian advanced within +twenty yards, he would not relinquish his claim to it, but suffered +himself to be shot standing on the deer. I once saw a similar instance +of a lynx, or wild cat, which also suffered itself to be killed, before +it would relinquish the prize. The Wolverenes have also frequently been +seen to take a deer from a wolf before the latter had time to begin his +repast after killing it. Indeed their amazing strength, and the length +and sharpness of their claws, render them capable of making a strong +resistance against {373} any other animal in those parts, the Bear not +excepted. As a proof of their amazing strength, there was one at +Churchill some years since, that overset the greatest part of a large +pile of wood, (containing a whole Winter's firing, that measured upwards +of seventy yards round,) to get at some provisions that had been hid +there by the Company's servants, when going to the Factory to spend the +Christmas holidays. The fact was, this animal had been lurking about in +the neighbourhood of their tent (which was about eight miles from the +Factory) for some weeks, and had committed many depredations on the game +caught in their traps and snares, as well as eaten many foxes that were +killed by guns set for that purpose: but the Wolverene was too cunning +to take either trap or gun himself. The people knowing the mischievous +disposition of those animals, took (as they thought) the most effectual +method to secure the remains of their provisions, which they did not +chuse to carry home, and accordingly tied it up in bundles and placed it +on the top of the wood-pile, (about two miles from their tent,) little +thinking the Wolverene would find it out; but to their great surprise, +when they returned to their tent after the holidays, they found the pile +of wood in the state already mentioned, though some of the trees that +composed it were as much as two men could carry. The only reason the +people could give for the animal doing so much mischief was, that in his +attempting to carry off the booty, some of the small parcels of +provisions had fallen down into the heart of the pile, and {374} sooner +than lose half his prize, he pursued the above method till he had +accomplished his ends. The bags of flour, oatmeal, and pease, though of +no use to him, he tore all to pieces, and scattered the contents about +on the snow; but every bit of animal food, consisting of beef, pork, +bacon, venison, salt geese, partridges, _&c._ to a considerable amount, +he carried away. These animals are great enemies to the Beaver, but the +manner of life of the latter prevents them from falling into their +clutches so frequently as many other animals; they commit vast +depredations on the foxes during the Summer, while the young ones are +small; their quick scent directs them to their dens, and if the entrance +be too small, their strength enables them to widen it, and go in and +kill the mother and all her cubs. In fact, they are the most destructive +animals in this country.[CB] + +[Sidenote: The Otter.] + +OTTERS[137] are pretty plentiful in the rivers to the North of +Churchill, as far as latitude 62 deg.; farther North I do not recollect to +have seen any. In Winter they generally frequent those parts of rivers +where there are falls or rapids, which do not freeze in the coldest +Winters; because in {375} such situations they are most likely to find +plenty of fish, and the open water gives them a free admission to the +shore, where they sometimes go to eat the fish they have caught; but +most commonly sit on the ice, or get on a great stone in the river. They +are frequently seen in the very depth of Winter at a considerable +distance from any known open water, both in woods and on open plains, as +well as on the ice of large lakes; but it is not known what has led them +to such places: perhaps merely for amusement, for they are not known to +kill any game on the land during that season. If pursued when among the +woods in Winter, (where the snow is always light and deep,) they +immediately dive, and make considerable way under it, but are easily +traced by the motion of the snow above them, and soon overtaken. The +Indians kill numbers of them with clubs, by tracing them in the snow; +but some of the old ones are so fierce when close pursued, that they +turn and fly at their pursuer, and their bite is so severe that it is +much dreaded by the Indians. Besides this method of killing them, the +Indians have another, which is equally successful; namely, by concealing +themselves within a reasonable gun-shot of the Otters usual +landing-places, and waiting their coming out of the water. This method +is more generally practised in moon-light nights. They also shoot many +of them as they are sporting in the water, and some few are caught in +traps. + +The Otters in this, as well as every other part of the bay, vary in size +and colour, according to age and season. {376} In Summer, when the hair +is very short, they are almost black, but as the Winter advances, they +turn to a beautiful dark auburn, except a small spot under the chin, +which is of a silver gray. This colour they retain all the Winter; but +late in the Spring (though long before they shed their coat) they turn +to a dull rusty brown; so that a person who is acquainted with those +changes can tell to a great nicety, by looking at the skins, (when +offered for sale,) the very time they were killed, and pay for them +according to their value. The number of their young is various, from +three to five or six. They unite in copulation the same as a dog, and so +do every other animal that has a bone in the _penis_. I will here +enumerate all of that description that I know of in those parts, _viz._ +bears of all sorts, wolves, wolvereens, foxes, martins, otters, wejacks, +jackashes, skunks, and ermines.[CC] + +[Sidenote: The Jackash.] + +JACKASH.[138] This animal is certainly no other than the lesser Otter of +Canada, as its colour, size, and manner of life entirely correspond with +the description of that animal in Mr. Pennant's Arctic Zoology. They, +like the larger Otter, are frequently found in Winter several miles from +any water, and are often caught in traps built for martins. They are +supposed to prey on mice and partridges, the same as the martin; but +when by the side of rivers or {377} creeks, they generally feed on fish. +They vary so much in size and colour, that it was very easy for Mr. +Pennant to have mistaken the specimen sent home for another animal. They +are the easiest to tame and domesticate of any animal I know, except a +large species of field-mice, called the Hair-tailed Mouse; for in a very +short time they are so fond, that it is scarcely possible to keep them +from climbing up one's legs and body, and they never feel themselves +happier than when sitting on the shoulder; but when angry, or +frightened, (like the skunk,) they emit a very disagreeable smell. They +sleep very much in the day, but prowl about and feed in the night; they +are very fierce when at their meals, not suffering those to whom they +are most attached to take it from them. I have kept several of them, but +their over-fondness made them troublesome, as they were always in the +way; and their so frequently emitting a disagreeable smell, rendered +them quite disgusting. + +[Sidenote: The Wejack, and Skunk.] + +Though the WEJACK[139][CD] and SKUNK[140] are never found in the +Northern Indian country, yet I cannot help observing that foetid smell +of the latter has not been much exaggerated by any Author. When I was at +Cumberland {378} House, in the Fall of one thousand seven hundred and +seventy-four, some Indians that were tenting on the plantation killed +two of those animals, and made a feast of them; when the spot where they +were singed and gutted was so impregnated with that nauseous smell which +they emit, that after a whole Winter had elapsed, and the snow had +thawed away in the Spring, the smell was still intolerable. I am told, +however, that the flesh is by no means tainted with the smell, if care +be taken in gutting, and taking out the bag that contains this +surprising effluvia, and which they have the power of emitting at +pleasure; but I rather doubt their being capable of ejecting their urine +so far as is reported; I do not think it is their urine which contains +that pestilential effluvia, for if that was the case, all the country +where they frequent would be so scented with it, that neither man nor +beast could live there with any degree of comfort. + +[Sidenote: The Pine Martin.] + +The COMMON PINE MARTIN[141] is found in most parts of this country, and +though very scarce in what is absolutely called the Northern Indian +territory, yet by the Indians strolling toward the borders of the +Southern Indian country, are killed in great numbers, and annually +traded for at Churchill Factory. + +[Sidenote: The Ermine, or Stote.] + +The ERMINE, or STOTE,[142] is common in those parts, but generally more +plentiful on the barren ground, and open plains or marshes, than in the +woods; probably owing to {379} the mice being more numerous in the +former situations than in the latter. In Summer they are of a tawney +brown, but in Winter of a delicate white all over, except the tip of the +tail, which is of a glossy black. They are, for their size, the +strongest and most courageous animal I know: as they not only kill +partridges, but even attack rabbits with great success. They sometimes +take up their abode in the out-offices and provision-sheds belonging to +the Factories; and though they commit some depredations, make ample +amends by killing great numbers of mice, which are very numerous and +destructive at most of the settlements in the Bay. I have taken much +pains to tame and domesticate this beautiful animal, but never could +succeed; for the longer I kept it the more restless and impatient it +became. + + +_Animals with Cutting Teeth._ + +[Sidenote: The Musk Rat.] + +The MUSK RAT,[143] or MUSQUASH; or, as Naturalists call it, the MUSK +BEAVER; is common in those parts; generally frequenting ponds and deep +swamps that do not freeze dry in Winter. The manner of life of this +species of animals is peculiar, and resembles that of the Beaver, as +they are in some respects provident, and build houses to shelter +themselves from the inclemency of the cold in Winter; but instead of +making those houses on the banks of ponds or swamps, like the Beaver, +they generally build them on the ice as soon as it is skinned over, and +at a considerable {380} distance from the shore; always taking care to +keep a hole open in the ice to admit them to dive for their food, which +chiefly consists of the roots of grass: in the Southern parts of the +country they feed much on a well-known root, called _Calamus +Aromaticus_.[144] The materials made use of in building their houses are +mud and grass, which they fetch up from the bottom. It sometimes happens +in very cold Winters, that the holes in their houses freeze over, in +spite of all their efforts to keep them open. When that is the case, and +they have no provisions left in the house, the strongest preys on the +weakest, till by degrees only one is left out of a whole lodge. I have +seen several instances sufficient to confirm the truth of this +assertion; for when their houses were broke open, the skeletons of seven +or eight have been found, and only one entire animal. Though they +occasionally eat fish and other animal food, yet in general they feed +very clean, and when fat are good eating, particularly when nicely +singed, scalded, and boiled. They are easily tamed, and soon grow fond; +are very cleanly and playful, and smell exceedingly pleasant of musk; +but their resemblance to a Rat is so great that few are partial to them. +Indeed the only difference between them and a common Rat, exclusive of +their superior size, is, that their hind-feet are large and webbed, and +the tail, instead of being round, is flat and scaly. + +Though I have before said, that the Musk Beaver generally build their +houses on the ice, it is not always the case; for in the Southern parts +of the country, particularly {381} about Cumberland House, I have seen, +in some of the deep swamps that were over-run with rushes and long +grass, many small islands that have been raised by the industry of those +animals; on the tops of which they had built their houses, like the +beaver, some of which were very large. The tops of those houses are +favourite breeding-places for the geese, which bring forth their young +brood there, without the fear of being molested by foxes, or any other +destructive animal, except the Eagle. + +[Sidenote: The Porcupine.] + +PORCUPINES[145] are so scarce to the North of Churchill River, and I do +not recollect to have seen more than six during almost three years' +residence among the Northern Indians. Mr. Pennant observes in his Arctic +Zoology,[146] that they always have two at a time; one brought forth +alive and the other still-born;[CE] but I never saw an instance of this +kind, though in different parts of the country I have seen them killed +in all stages of pregnancy. The flesh of the porcupine is very +delicious, and so much esteemed by the Indians, that they think it the +greatest luxury that their country affords. The quills are in great +request among the women; who make them into a variety of ornaments, such +as shot-bags, belts, garters, bracelets, _&c._ Their mode of copulation +is singular, for their {382} quills will not permit them to perform that +office in the usual mode, like other quadrupeds. To remedy this +inconvenience, they sometimes lie on their sides, and meet in that +manner; but the usual mode is for the male to lie on his back, and the +female to walk over him, (beginning at his head,) till the parts of +generation come in contact. They are the most forlorn animal I know; for +in those parts of Hudson's Bay where they are most numerous, it is not +common to see more than one in a place. They are so remarkably slow and +stupid, that our Indians going with packets from Fort to Fort often see +them in the trees, but not having occasion for them at that time, leave +them till their return; and should their absence be a week or ten days, +they are sure to find them within a mile of the place where they had +seen them before. + +[Sidenote: Foxes of various Colours.] + +FOXES[147] of various colours are not scarce in those parts; but the +natives living such a wandering life, seldom kill many. It is rather +strange that no other species of Fox, except the white, are found at any +distance from the woods on the barren ground; for so long as the trade +has been established with the Esquimaux to the North of Churchill, I do +not recollect that Foxes of any other colour than white were ever +received from them. + +[Sidenote: Varying Hares.] + +The VARYING HARES[148] are numerous to the North of Churchill River, and +extend as far as latitude 72 deg., probably farther. They delight most in +rocky and stony {383} places, near the borders of woods; though many of +them brave the coldest Winters on entire barren ground. In Summer they +are nearly the colour of our English wild rabbit; but in Winter assume a +most delicate white all over, except the tips of the ears, which are +black. They are, when full grown and in good condition, very large, many +of them weighing fourteen or fifteen pounds; and if not too old, are +good eating. In Winter they feed on long rye-grass and the tops of dwarf +willows, but in Summer eat berries, and different sorts of small +herbage. They are frequently killed on the South-side of Churchill +River, and several have been known to breed near the settlement at that +place. They must multiply very fast, for when we evacuated Prince of +Wales's Fort in one thousand seven hundred and eighty-two, it was rare +to see one of them within twenty or thirty miles of that place; but at +our return, in one thousand seven hundred and eighty-three, we found +them in such numbers, that it was common for one man to kill two or +three in a day within half a mile of the new settlement. But partly, +perhaps, from so many being killed, and partly from the survivors being +so frequently disturbed, they have shifted their situation, and are at +present as scarce near the settlement as ever. The Northern Indians +pursue a singular method in shooting those Hares; finding by long +experience that these animals will not bear a direct approach, when the +Indians see a hare sitting, they walk round it in circles, always +drawing nearer at every revolution, till by degrees they get within +gun-shot. The {384} middle of the day, if it be clear weather, is the +best time to kill them in this manner; for before and after noon, the +Sun's altitude being so small, makes a man's shadow so long on the snow, +as to frighten the Hare before he can approach near enough to kill it. +The same may be said of deer when on open plains, who are frequently +more frightened at the long shadow than at the man himself. + +[Sidenote: The American Hare.] + +The AMERICAN HARES,[149] or, as they are called in Hudson's Bay, +RABBITS, are not plentiful in the Eastern parts of the Northern Indian +country, not even in those parts that are situated among the woods; but +to the Westward, bordering on the Southern Indian country, they are in +some places pretty numerous, though by no means equal to what has been +reported of them at York Fort, and some other settlements in the Bay. + +The furr of those animals, when killed in the best part of the season, +was for many years entirely neglected by the furriers; for some time +past the Company have ordered as many of their skins to be sent home as +can be procured; they are but of small value. + +The flesh of those Hares is generally more esteemed than that of the +former. They are in season all the Winter; and though they generally +feed on the brush of pine and fir during that season, yet many of the +Northern Indians eat the contents of the stomach. They are seldom sought +after in Summer, as in that season they are not esteemed {385} good +eating; but as the Fall advances they are, by feeding on berries, _&c._ +most excellent. In Spring they shed their Winter coat, and during the +Summer are nearly the colour of the English wild rabbit, but as the +Winter advances they become nearly white. In thick weather they are +easily shot with the gun; but the most usual method of killing them is +by snares, set nearly in the manner described by Dragge in the First +Volume of his North West Passage. + +[Sidenote: The Common Squirrel.] + +The COMMON SQUIRRELS[150] are plentiful in the woody parts of this +country, and are caught by the natives in considerable numbers with +snares, while the boys kill many of them with blunt-headed arrows. The +method of snaring them is rather curious, though very simple, as it +consists of nothing more than setting a number of snares all round the +body of the tree in which they are seen, and arranging them in such a +manner that it is scarcely possible for the squirrels to descend without +being entangled in one of them. This is generally the amusement of the +boys. Though small, and seldom fat, yet they are good eating. + +The beauty and delicacy of this animal induced me to attempt taming and +domesticating some of them, but without success; for though several of +them were so familiar as to take any thing out of my hand, and sit on +the table where I was writing, and play with the pens, _&c._ yet they +never would bear to be handled, and were very mischievous; gnawing the +chair-bottoms, window-curtains, sashes, _&c._ to pieces. They are an +article of trade in the {386} Company's standard, but the greatest part +of their skins, being killed in Summer, are of very little value. + +[Sidenote: The Ground Squirrel.] + +The GROUND SQUIRRELS[151] are never found in the woody parts of North +America, but are very plentiful on the barren ground, to the North of +Churchill River, as far as the latitude 71 deg., and probably much farther. +In size they are equal to the American Grey Squirrel, though more +beautiful in colour. They generally burrow among the rocks and under +great stones, but sometimes on the sides of sandy ridges; and are so +provident in laying up a Winter's stock during the Summer, that they are +seldom seen on the surface of the snow in Winter. They generally feed on +the tufts of grass, the tender tops of dwarf willows, _&c._ and are for +the most part exceedingly fat, and good eating. They are easily tamed, +and soon grow fond; by degrees they will bear handling as well as a cat; +are exceeding cleanly, very playful, and by no means so restless and +impatient of confinement as the Common Squirrel. + +[Sidenote: Mice of various kinds.] + +MICE are in great plenty and variety in all parts of Hudson's Bay; the +marshes being inhabited by one species, and the dry ridges by another. +The Shrew Mouse[152] is frequently found in Beaver houses during Winter, +where they not only find a warm habitation, but also pick up a +comfortable livelihood from the scraps left by the Beaver. Most of the +other species build or make nests of dry grass, {387} of such a size and +thickness, that when covered with snow, they must be sufficiently warm. +They all feed on grass in general, but will also eat animal food when +they can get it. The Hair-tailed Mouse[153] is the largest in the +Northern parts of the Bay, being little inferior in size to a common +rat. They always burrow under stones, on dry ridges; are very +inoffensive, and so easily tamed, that if taken when full-grown, some of +them will in a day or two be perfectly reconciled, and are so fond of +being handled, that they will creep about your neck, or into your bosom. +In Summer they are grey, and in Winter change to white, but are by no +means so beautiful as a white ermine. At that season they are infested +with multitudes of small lice, not a sixth part so large as the mites in +a cheese; in fact, they are so small, that at first sight they only +appear like reddish-brown dust, but on closer examination are all +perceived in motion. In one large and beautiful animal of this kind, +caught in the depth of Winter, I found those little vermin so numerous +about it, that almost every hair was covered with them as thick as ropes +with onions, and when they approached near the ends of the hair they may +be said to change the mouse from white to a faint brown. At that time I +had an excellent microscope, and endeavoured to examine them, and to +ascertain their form, but the weather was so exceedingly cold, that the +glasses became damp with the moisture of my breath before I could get a +single sight. The hind-feet of these Mice are exactly like those of a +Bear, and the {388} fore-feet are armed with a horny substance, (that I +never saw in any other species of the Mouse,) which is wonderfully +adapted for scraping away the ground where they wish to take up their +abode. They are plentiful on some of the stony ridges near Churchill +Factory, but never approach the house, or any of the out-offices. From +appearances they are very local, and seldom stray far from their +habitations even in Summer, and in Winter they are seldom seen on the +surface of the snow; a great proof of their being provident in Summer to +lay by a stock for that season. + + +_Pinnated Quadrupeds._ + +With respect to the Pinnated Quadrupeds with finlike feet, there are but +few species in Hudson's Bay. The Walrus, or Sea-Horse, and Seals, are +the only ones that I know. + +[Sidenote: The Walrus.] + +The WALRUS[154] are numerous about Merry and Jones's Islands, but more +so on a small island called Sea-Horse Island, that lies in the fair way +going to Whale Cove. In July one thousand seven hundred and sixty-seven, +when on my voyage to the North of Churchill River, in passing Sea-Horse +Island, we saw such numbers of those animals lying on the shore, that +when some swivel guns loaded with ball were fired among them, the whole +beach seemed to be in motion. The greatest part of them plunged into the +water, and many of them swam round {389} the vessel within musket-shot. +Every one on board exerted their skill in killing them, but it was +attended with so little success, that the few which were killed sunk to +the bottom, and those which were mortally wounded made off out of our +reach. + +With what propriety those animals are called Horses, I cannot see; for +there is not the least resemblance in any one part. Their bodies, fins, +_&c._ are exactly like those of an enormous Seal, and the head is not +very unlike that animal, except that the nose is much broader, to give +room for the two large tusks that project from the upper jaw. Those +tusks, and their red sparkling eyes, make them have a very fierce and +formidable appearance. + +They are generally found in considerable numbers, which indicate their +love of society; and their affection for each other is very apparent, as +they always flock round those that are wounded, and when they sink, +accompany them to the bottom, but soon rise to the surface, and make a +hideous roaring, and of all amphibious animals, they are at times the +least sensible of danger from man that I know. + +They often attack small boats merely through wantonness, and not only +put the people in great confusion, but subject them to great danger; for +they always aim at staving the boat with their tusks, or endeavour to +get in, but are never known to hurt the people. In the year one thousand +seven hundred and sixty-six some of the sloop's {390} crew, who annually +sail to the North to trade with the Esquimaux, were attacked by a great +number of those animals; and notwithstanding their utmost endeavours to +keep them off, one more daring than the rest, though a small one, got in +over the stern, and after sitting and looking at the people some time, +he again plunged into the water to his companions. At that instant +another, of an enormous size, was getting in over the bow; and every +other means proving ineffectual to prevent such an unwelcome visit, the +bowman took up a gun, loaded with goose-shot, put the muzzle into the +Horse's mouth, and shot him dead; he immediately sunk, and was followed +by all his companions. The people then made the best of their way to the +vessel, and just arrived before the Sea-Horses were ready to make their +second attack, which in all probability might have been worse than the +first, as they seemed much enraged at the loss of their companion. + +Those animals are of various sizes, according to age and other +circumstances; some are not larger than an old Seal but there are those +among them that are not less than two ton weight. + +The skin and teeth are the most valuable parts to the natives; for the +fat is hard and grisly, and the flesh coarse, black, and tough. + +Those animals are seldom found on the continent which borders on +Hudson's Bay, or far up, in bays, rivers, or inlets, but usually +frequent small islands, and sea-girt {391} shoals, at some distance from +the main land; but as those places are frozen over for many miles during +Winter, it is natural to think they keep at the edge of the water among +the driving ice during that season. They are supposed to feed chiefly on +marine plants, and perhaps on shell-fish, for their excrement is +exceedingly offensive. + +[Sidenote: Seals.] + +SEALS of various sizes and colours are common in most parts of Hudson's +Bay, but most numerous to the North. Some of those animals are +beautifully speckled, black and white;[155] others are of a dirty grey. +The former are generally small, but some of the latter arrive at an +amazing size, and their skins are of great use to the Esquimaux; as it +is of them they cover their canoes, make all their boot-legs and shoes, +besides many other parts of their clothing. The Seal-skins are also of +great use to those people as a substitute for casks, to preserve oil, +_&c._ for Winter use; they are also blown full of wind and dried, and +then used as buoys on the whale-fishery. The flesh and fat of the Seal +is also more esteemed by the Esquimaux than those of any other marine +animal, salmon not excepted. + +[Sidenote: Sea Unicorn.] + +Besides these, the SEA-UNICORN[156] is known to frequent Hudson's Bay +and Straits, but I never saw one of them. Their horns are frequently +purchased from our friendly Esquimaux, who probably get them in the way +of barter from those tribes that reside more to the North; but I {392} +never could be informed by the natives whether their skins are like +those of the Whale, or hairy like those of the Seal; I suppose the +former. + + * * * * * + + +_Species of Fish._ + +The Fish that inhabit the salt water of Hudson's Bay are but few:--the +Black Whale, White Whale, Salmon, and a small fish called Kepling, are +the only species of sea-fish in those parts.[CF] + +[Sidenote: Black Whale.] + +The BLACK WHALE[157] is sometimes found as far South as Churchill River, +and I was present at the killing of three there; but this was in the +course of twenty years. To the Northward, particularly near Marble +Island, they are more plentiful; but notwithstanding the Company carried +on a fishery in that quarter, from the year one thousand seven hundred +and sixty-five till one thousand seven hundred and seventy-two, they +were so far from making it answer their expectations, that they sunk +upwards of twenty thousand pounds; which is the less to be wondered at, +when we consider the great inconveniencies and expences {393} they +laboured under in such an undertaking. For as it was impossible to +prosecute it from England, all the people employed on that service were +obliged to reside at their settlement all the year at extravagant wages, +exclusive of their maintenance. The harpooners had no less than fifty +pounds _per annum_ standing wages, and none of the crew less than from +fifteen to twenty-five pounds; which, together with the Captains' +salaries, wear and tear of their vessels, and other contingent expences, +made it appear on calculation, that if there were a certainty of loading +the vessels every year, the Company could not clear themselves. On the +contrary, during the seven years they persevered in that undertaking, +only four Black Whales were taken near Marble Island; and, except one, +they were so small, that they would not have been deemed payable fish in +the Greenland service.[CG] But the Hudson's Bay Company, with a +liberality that does honour to them, though perfectly acquainted with +the rules observed in the Greenland service, gave the same premium for a +sucking fish, as for one of the greatest magnitude. + +[Sidenote: White Whale.] + +WHITE WHALES[158] are very plentiful in those parts, particularly from +Chesterfield's Inlet to York Fort, or Hay's {394} River, on the West +side of the Bay; and from Cape Smith to Slude River on the East side. On +the West coast they are generally found in the greatest numbers at the +mouths of the principal rivers; such as Seal River, Churchill, Port +Nelson, and Hay's Rivers. But the East side of the Bay not being so well +known, Whale River is the only part they are known to frequent in very +considerable numbers. Some years ago the Company had a settlement at +this river, called Richmond Fort; but all their endeavours to establish +a profitable fishery here proved ineffectual, and the few Indians who +resorted to it with furrs proving very inadequate to the expences, the +Company determined to evacuate it. Accordingly, after keeping up this +settlement for upward of twelve years, and sinking many thousands of +pounds, they ordered it to be burnt, for the more easily getting the +spikes and other iron-work. This was in the year one thousand seven +hundred and fifty-eight. + +At the old established Factories on the West side of the Bay, the +Company have been more successful in the White Whale fishery, +particularly at Churchill, where such of the Company's servants as +cannot be employed during that season to more benefit for the Company, +are sent on that duty, and in some successful years they send home from +eight to thirteen tons of fine oil. To encourage a spirit of industry +among those employed on this service, the Company allows a gratuity, not +only to the harpooners, but to every man that sails in the boats; and +this {395} gratuity is so ample as to inspire them with emulation, as +they well know that the more they kill, the greater will be their +emolument. + +[Sidenote: Salmon.] + +SALMON[159] are in some seasons very numerous on the North West side of +Hudson's Bay, particularly at Knapp's Bay and Whale Cove. At the latter +I once found them so plentiful, that had we been provided with a +sufficient number of nets, casks, and salt, we might soon have loaded +the vessel with them. But this is seldom the case, for in some years +they are so scarce, that it is with difficulty a few meals of them can +be procured during our stay at those harbours. They are in some years so +plentiful near Churchill River, that I have known upward of two hundred +fine fish taken out of four small nets in one tide within a quarter of a +mile of the Fort; but in other years they are so scarce, that barely +that number have been taken in upward of twenty nets during the whole +season, which generally begins the latter end of June, and ends about +the middle or latter end of August. + +[Sidenote: Kepling.] + +Beside the fish already mentioned, I know of no other that inhabits the +salt water except the KEPLING,[160] which is a small fish about the size +of a smelt, but most excellent eating. In some years they resort to the +shores near Churchill River in such multitudes to spawn, and such +numbers of them are left dry among the rocks, as at times to be {396} +quite offensive. In other seasons they are so scarce, that hardly a meal +can be procured. + +The same remark may be made on almost every species of game, which +constitutes the greatest part of the fare of the people residing in +those parts. For instance, in some years, hundreds of deer may easily be +killed within a mile of York Fort; and in others, there is not one to be +seen within twenty or thirty miles. One day thousands and tens of +thousands of geese are seen, but the next they all raise flight, and go +to the North to breed. Salmon, as I have lately observed, is so +plentiful in some years at Churchill River, that it might be procured in +any quantity; at others, so scarce as to be thought a great delicacy. + +In fact, after twenty years residence in this country, I am persuaded +that whoever relies much on the produce of the different seasons, will +frequently be deceived, and occasionally expose himself and men to great +want. + +To remedy this evil, it is most prudent for those in command to avail +themselves of plentiful seasons, and cure a sufficient quantity of the +least perishable food, particularly geese. + + * * * * * + + +_Shell Fish._ + +[Sidenote: Shell Fish.] + +SHELL FISH of a variety of kinds are also found in some parts of +Hudson's Bay. Muscles[161] in particular are in great abundance on the +rocky shores near Churchill River, and what is vulgarly called the +Periwinkle are very plentiful {397} on the rocks which dry at low-water. +Small Crabs[162] and Starfish[163] are frequently thrown on the shore by +the surf in heavy gales of wind; and the empty shells of Wilks, small +Scallops, Cockles, and many other kinds, are to be found on the beaches +in great plenty. The same may be said of the interior parts of the +country, where the banks of the lakes and rivers abound with empty +shells of various kinds; but the fish themselves have never been +discovered by the natives. + +_Frogs, Grubs, and other Insects._ + +[Sidenote: Frogs.] + +[Sidenote: Spiders and Grubs.] + +FROGS[164] of various colours are numerous in those parts as far North +as the latitude 61 deg.. They always frequent the margins of lakes, ponds, +rivers, and swamps: and as the Winter approaches, they burrow under the +moss, at a considerable distance from the water, where they remain in a +frozen state till the Spring. I have frequently seen them dug up with +the moss, (when pitching tents in Winter,) frozen as hard as ice; in +which state the legs are as easily broken off as a pipe-stem, without +giving the least sensation to the animal; but by wrapping them up in +warm skins, and exposing them to a slow fire, they soon recover life, +and the mutilated animal gains its usual activity; but if they are +permitted to freeze again, they are past all recovery, and are never +more known to come to life. The same may be said of the various species +of {398} Spiders, and all the Grub kind, which are very numerous in +those parts. I have seen thousands of them dug up with the moss, when we +were pitching our tents in the Winter; all of which were invariably +enclosed in a thick web, which Nature teaches them to spin on those +occasions; yet they were apparently all frozen as hard as ice. The +Spiders, if let fall from any height on a hard substance, would rebound +like a grey pea; and all the Grub kind are so hard frozen as to be as +easily broken as a piece of ice of the same size; yet when exposed to a +slow heat, even in the depth of Winter, they will soon come to life, and +in a short time recover their usual motions. + + * * * * * + + +_Birds._ + +The feathered creation that resort to those parts in the different +seasons are numerous, but such as brave the severe Winter are but few in +number, and shall be particularly noticed in their proper places. + +[Sidenote: Eagles.] + +EAGLES of several sorts are found in the country bordering on Hudson's +Bay during the Summer; but none, except the common brown Fishing +Eagle,[165] ever frequent the Northern parts. They always make their +appearance in those dreary regions about the latter end of March or +beginning of April, and build their nests in lofty trees, in the +crevices of inaccessible rocks near the {399} banks of rivers. They lay +but two eggs, (which are white,) and frequently bring but one young. +They generally feed on fish, which they catch as they are swimming near +the surface; but they are very destructive to the musk rat and hares, as +also to geese and ducks, when in a moulting state, and frequently kill +young beaver. Their nests are very large, frequently six feet in +diameter; and before their young can fly, are so provident, that the +Indians frequently take a most excellent meal of fish, flesh, and fowl +from their larder. Though they bring forth their young so early as the +latter end of May, or the beginning of June, yet they never fly till +September; a little after which they migrate to the Southward. They are +the most ravenous of any bird I know; for when kept in confinement or in +a tame state as it may be called, I have known two of them eat more than +a bushel of fish in a day. They are never known to breed on the barren +grounds to the North of Churchill River, though many of the lakes and +rivers in those parts abound with variety of fish. This is probably +owing to the want of trees or high rocks to build in. The Northern +Indians are very partial to the quill-feathers of the Eagle, as well as +to those of the hawk, to wing or plume their arrows with, out of a +superstitious notion that they have a greater effect than if winged with +the feathers of geese, cranes, crows, or other birds, that in fact would +do equally as well. The flesh of the Eagle is usually eaten by most of +the Indians, but is always black, hard, and fishy; even the {400} young +ones, when in a callow state, though the flesh is delicate white, are so +rank as to render them very unpleasant to some persons, except in times +of necessity. + +[Sidenote: Hawks of various sizes.] + +HAWKS of various sizes and plumage frequent the different parts of the +country round Hudson's Bay during Summer. Some of those Hawks are so +large as to weigh three pounds, and others so small as not to exceed +five or six ounces. But the weight of those, as well as every other +species of Birds, is no standard for the Naturalist to go by; for at +different seasons, and when in want of food, they are often scarcely +half the weight they are when fat and in good order. Notwithstanding the +variety of Hawks that resort to those parts in Summer, I know but one +species that brave the intense cold of the long Winters to the North of +Churchill River; and that is what Mr. Pennant calls the Sacre +Falcon.[166] They, like the other large species of Hawks, prey much on +the white grouse or partridge, and also on the American hare, usually +called here Rabbits. They are always found to frequent those parts where +partridges are plentiful, and are detested by the sportsmen, as they +generally drive all the game off the ground near their tents; but, in +return, they often drive thither fresh flocks of some hundreds. +Notwithstanding this, they so frequently baulk those who are employed on +the hunting service, that the Governors generally give a reward of a +quart of brandy for each of their heads. Their flesh is always eaten by +the Indians, and sometimes by the {401} English; but it is always black, +hard, and tough, and sometimes has a bitter taste. + +The Indians are fond of taming those birds, and frequently keep them the +whole Summer; but as the Winter approaches they generally take flight, +and provide for themselves. When at Cumberland House I had one of them, +of which my people were remarkably fond; and as it never wanted for +food, would in all probability have remained with us all the Winter, had +it not been killed by an Indian who did not know it to be tame. + +[Sidenote: White or Snowy Owl.] + +The beautiful species of WHITE or SNOWY OWL[167] is common in all parts +of Hudson's Bay, as far North as the Copper-mine River. These birds, +when flying or sitting, appear very large, but when killed, seldom weigh +more than three and a half, or four pounds, and sometimes scarcely half +that weight. They generally feed on mice and partridges, and are at +times known to kill rabbits. They are, like the hawk, very troublesome +to the sportsmen; and, contrary to any other bird that I know, have a +great propensity to follow the report of a gun, and frequently follow +the hunters (as they are usually called in Hudson's Bay) the whole day. +On those occasions they usually perch on high trees, and watch till a +bird is killed, when they skim down and carry it off before the hunter +can get near it; but in return, the hunters, when they see them on the +watch, frequently decoy them within gun-shot, by throwing up a dead +bird, which {402} the Owl seldom refuses to accept; but the sportsman +being fully provided for this visit, and on his guard, generally shoots +them before they can carry off the partridge. They are, however, so +great a hindrance to those employed on the hunting service, that the +same premium is given for one of their heads as for that of a hawk. + +In Winter they are frequently very fat, their flesh delicately white, +and generally esteemed good eating, both by English and Indians. Those +Owls always make their nests on the ground, generally lay from three to +four eggs, but seldom hatch more than two; and in the extreme North the +young ones do not fly till September. They never migrate, but brave the +coldest Winters, even on the barren ground, far remote from any woods; +and in those situations perch on high rocks and stones, and watch for +their prey. + +[Sidenote: Grey or Mottled Owl.] + +The species of GREY or MOTTLED OWL[168] are by no means so numerous as +the former, are something inferior in size, and always frequent the +woods. They never go in search of their prey in the day time, but perch +on the tops of lofty pines, and are easily approached and shot. Their +food is generally known to be mice and small birds, yet their flesh is +delicately white, and nearly as good as a barn-door fowl; of course it +is much esteemed both by the English and Indians. This species of Owl is +called by the Southern Indians Ho-ho, and the former Wap-a-kee-thow. + +[Sidenote: Cob-a-dee-cooch.] + +{403} Besides those two species of Owls, there is another that remains +in Hudson's Bay all the year, and is called by the Indians +COB-A-DEE-COOCH.[169] It is so far inferior in size to the two former, +that it seldom weighs half a pound; is of a mottled brown, the feathers +long, and of a most delicate soft and silky quality. In general this +species feed on mice, and birds they find dead; and are so impudent at +times, that they light on a partridge when killed by the hunter, but not +being able to carry it off, are often obliged to relinquish the prize. +Like the White Owl, at times, though but seldom, they follow the report +of a gun, and by so frequently skimming round the sportsmen, frighten +the game nearly as much as the hawk. They seldom go far from the woods, +build in trees, and lay from two to four eggs. They are never fat, and +their flesh is eaten only by the Indians. + +[Sidenote: Ravens.] + +RAVENS[170] of a most beautiful glossy black, richly tinged with purple +and violet colour, are the constant inhabitants of Hudson's Bay; but are +so far inferior in size to the English Raven, that they are usually +called Crows. They build their nests in lofty pine-trees, and generally +lay four speckled eggs; they bring forth their young so early as the +latter end of May, or the beginning of June. In Summer many of them +frequent the barren grounds, several hundred miles from any woods; +probably invited there by the multitudes of deer and musk-oxen that are +killed by the Northern Indians during that season, merely for their +{404} skins, and who leave their flesh to rot, or be devoured by beasts +or birds of prey. At those times they are very fat, and the flesh of the +young ones is delicately white, and good eating. But in Winter they are, +through necessity, obliged to feed on a black moss that grows on the +pine-trees, also on deer's dung, and excrements of other animals. It is +true, they kill some mice, which they find in the surface of the snow, +and catch many wounded partridges and hares; in some parts of the +country they are a great nuisance to the hunter, by eating the game that +is either caught in snares or traps. With all this assistance, they are +in general so poor during the severe cold in Winter, as to excite wonder +how they possibly can exist. + +Their faculty of scent must be very acute; for in the coldest days in +Winter, when every kind of effluvia is almost instantaneously destroyed +by the frost, I have frequently known buffaloes and other beasts killed +where not one of those birds were seen; but in a few hours scores of +them would gather about the spot to pick up the dung, blood, and other +offal. An unarmed man may approach them very near when feeding, but they +are shy of those that have a gun; a great proof that they smell the +gunpowder. They are, however, frequently shot by guns set for foxes; and +sometimes caught in traps built for martins. Though, on the whole, they +may be called a shy bird, yet their necessities in Winter are so great, +that, like the White Owl, they frequently follow the report of a gun, +keep prudently at a distance from the sportsman, and frequently {405} +carry off many wounded birds. Their quills make most excellent pens for +drawing, or for ladies to write with. + +[Sidenote: Cinereous Crow.] + +The CINEREOUS CROW,[171] or, as it is called by the Southern Indians, +Whisk-e-jonish, by the English Whiskey-jack, and by the Northern Indians +Gee-za, but as some pronounce it, and that with more propriety, Jee-za, +though classed among the Crows, is in reality so small, as seldom to +weigh three ounces; the plumage grey, the feathers very long, soft, and +silky, and in general entirely unwebbed, and in some parts much +resembles hair. This bird is very familiar, and fond of frequenting +habitations, either houses or tents; and so much given to pilfering, +that no kind of provisions it can come at, either fresh or salt, is safe +from its depredation. It is so bold as to come into tents, and sit on +the edge of the kettle when hanging over the fire, and steal victuals +out of the dishes. It is very troublesome to the hunters, both English +and Indian, frequently following them a whole day; it will perch on a +tree while the hunter is baiting his martin-traps, and as soon as his +back is turned go and eat the baits. It is a kind of mock bird, and of +course has a variety of notes; it is easily tamed, but never lives long +in confinement. It is well known to be a provident bird, laying up great +quantities of berries in Summer for a Winter stock; but its natural +propensity to pilfer at all seasons makes it much detested both by the +{406} English and Indians. It builds its nest in trees, exactly like +that of the blackbird and thrush; lays four blue eggs, but seldom brings +more than three young ones. + +[Sidenote: Wood-pecker.] + +I know of only one sort of WOOD-PECKER that frequents the remote +Northern parts of Hudson's Bay; and this is distinguished by Mr. Pennant +by the name of the Golden Winged Bird;[172] but to the South West that +beautiful species of Wood-pecker with a scarlet crown is very +frequent.[173] The manner of life of this species is nearly alike, +always building their nests in holes in trees, and feeding on worms and +insects. They generally have from four to six young at a time. They are +said to be very destructive to fruit-trees that are raised in gardens in +the more Southern parts of America; but the want of those luxuries in +Hudson's Bay renders them very harmless and inoffensive birds. The red +feathers of the larger sort, which frequent the interior and Southern +parts of the Bay, are much valued by some of the Indians, who ornament +their pipe-stems with them, and at times use them as ornaments to their +children's clothing. Neither of the two species here mentioned ever +migrate,[174] but are constant inhabitants of the different climates in +which they are found. + +[Sidenote: Grouse.] + +There are several species of GROUSE in the different parts of Hudson's +Bay; but two of the largest, and one of them the most beautiful, never +reach so far North {407} as the latitude 59 deg.: but as I have seen them in +great plenty near Cumberland House, I shall take the liberty to describe +them. + +[Sidenote: The Ruffed Grouse.] + +The RUFFED GROUSE.[175] This is the most beautiful of all that are +classed under that name. They are of a delicate brown, prettily +variegated with black and white: tail large and long, like that of a +hawk, which is usually of an orange-colour, beautifully barred with +black, chocolate, and white; and the tail is frequently expanded like a +fan. To add to their beauty, they have a ruff of glossy black feathers, +richly tinged with purple round the neck, which they can erect at +pleasure: this they frequently do, but more particularly so when they +spread their long tail, which gives them a noble appearance. In size +they exceed a partridge, but are inferior to a pheasant. In Winter they +are usually found perched on the branches of the pine-trees; and in that +season are so tame as to be easily approached, and of course readily +shot. + +They always make their nests on the ground, generally at the root of a +tree, and lay to the number of twelve or fourteen eggs. In some of the +Southern parts of America several attempts have been made to tame those +beautiful birds, by taking their eggs and hatching them under domestic +hens, but it was never crowned with success; for when but a few days +old, they always make their escape into the woods, where they probably +pick up a subsistence. Their flesh is delicately white and firm, and +{408} though they are seldom fat, they are always good eating, and are +generally esteemed best when larded and roasted, or nicely boiled with a +bit of bacon. + +There is something very remarkable in those birds, and I believe +peculiar to themselves, which is that of clapping their wings with such +a force, that at half a mile distance it resembles thunder. I have +frequently heard them make that noise near Cumberland House in the month +of May, but it was always before Sun-rise, and a little after Sun-set. +It is said by Mr. Barton and Le Hontan, that they never clap in this +manner but in the Spring and Fall, and I must acknowledge that I never +heard them in Winter, though I have killed many of them in that season. +The Indians informed me they never make that noise but when feeding, +which is very probable; for it is notoriously known that all the species +of Grouse feed very early in the mornings, and late in the afternoons. +This species is called by some of the Indians bordering on Hudson's Bay, +Pus-pus-kee, and by others Pus-pus-cue. + +[Sidenote: Sharp-tailed Grouse.] + +SHARP-TAILED GROUSE,[176] or as they are called in Hudson's Bay, +Pheasant. Those birds are always found in the Southern parts of the Bay, +are very plentiful in the interior parts of the country, and in some +Winters a few of them are shot at York Fort, but never reach so far +North as Churchill. In colour they are not very unlike that of the +English hen pheasant; but the tail is short and pointed, like that of +the common duck; and there is no perceivable {409} difference in plumage +between the male and female. When full-grown, and in good condition, +they frequently weigh two pounds, and though the flesh is dark, yet it +is juicy, and always esteemed good eating, particularly when larded and +roasted. In Summer they feed on berries, and in Winter on the tops of +the dwarf birch, and the buds of the poplar. In the Fall they are +tolerably tame, but in the severe cold more shy; frequently perch on the +tops of the highest poplars, out of moderate gun-shot, and will not +suffer a near approach. They sometimes, when disturbed in this +situation, dive into the snow; but the sportsman is equally baulked in +his expectations, as they force their way so fast under it as to raise +flight many yards distant from the place they entered, and very +frequently in a different direction to that from which the sportsman +expects.[CH] They, like the other species of grouse, make their nests on +the ground, and lay from ten to thirteen eggs. Like the Ruffed Grouse, +they are not to be tamed, as many trials have been made at York Fort, +but without success; for though they never made their escape, yet they +always died, probably for the want of proper food; for the hens that +hatched them were equally fond of them, as they could possibly have been +had they been the produce of their own eggs. This species of Grouse is +called by the Southern Indians Aw-kis-cow. + +[Sidenote: Wood Partridge.] + +{410} The WOOD PARTRIDGES[177] have acquired that name in Hudson's Bay +from their always frequenting the forests of pines and fir; and in +Winter feeding on the brush of those trees, though they are fondest of +the latter. This species of Grouse is inferior in size and beauty to the +Ruffed, yet may be called a handsome bird; the plumage being of a +handsome brown, elegantly spotted with white and black. The tail is +long, and tipped with orange; and the legs are warmly covered with short +feathers, but the feet are naked. They are generally in the extreme with +respect to shyness; sometimes not suffering a man to come within two +gun-shots, and at others so tame that the sportsman may kill five or six +out of one tree without shifting his station. They are seen in some +years in considerable numbers near York Fort. They are very scarce at +Churchill, though numerous in the interior parts, particularly on the +borders of the Athapuscow Indians country, where I have seen my Indian +companions kill many of them with blunt-headed arrows. In Winter their +flesh is black, hard and bitter, probably owing to the resinous quality +of their food during that season; but this is not observed in the +rabbits, though they feed exactly in the same manner in Winter: on the +contrary, their flesh is esteemed more delicate than that of the English +rabbit. The Southern Indians call this species of Partridge, +Mistick-a-pethow; and the Northern Indians call it, Day. + +[Sidenote: Willow Partridge.] + +{411} The WILLOW PARTRIDGES[178] have a strong black bill, with scarlet +eye-brows, very large and beautiful in the male, but less conspicuous in +the female. In Summer they are brown, elegantly barred and mottled with +orange, white, and black; and at that season the males are very proud +and handsome, but the females are less beautiful, being of one universal +brown. As the Fall advances they change to a delicate white, except +fourteen black feathers in the tail, which are also tipped with white; +and their legs and feet, quite down to the nails, are warmly covered +with feathers. In the latter end of September and beginning of October +they gather in flocks of some hundreds, and proceed from the open plains +and barren grounds, (where they usually breed,) to the woods and +brush-willows, where they hord together in a state of society, till +dispersed by their common enemies, the hawks, or hunters. They are by +far the most numerous of any of the Grouse species that are found in +Hudson's Bay; and in some places when permitted to remain undisturbed +for a considerable time, their number is frequently so great, as almost +to exceed credibility. I shall by no means exceed truth, if I assert +that I have seen upward of four hundred in one flock near Churchill +River; but the greatest number I ever saw was on the North side of Port +Nelson River, when returning with a packet in March one thousand seven +hundred and sixty-eight: at that time I saw thousands flying to the +North, and the whole surface of the snow seemed to be in motion by those +that were feeding on the tops of the short willows. Sir {412} Thomas +Button mentions, that when he wintered in Port Nelson River in one +thousand six hundred and twelve, his crew killed eighteen hundred dozen +of those birds, which I have no reason to doubt; and Mr. Jeremie, +formerly Governor at York Fort, when that place was in the possession of +the French, and then called Fort Bourbon, asserts, that he and +seventy-nine others eat no less than ninety thousand partridges and +twenty-five thousand hares in the course of one Winter; which, +considering the quantity of venison, geese, ducks, _&c._ enumerated in +his account, that were killed that year, makes the number so great, that +it is scarcely possible to conceive what eighty men could do with them; +for on calculation, ninety thousand partridges and twenty-five thousand +hares divided by eighty, amounts to no less than one thousand one +hundred and twenty-five partridges, and three hundred and twelve hares +per man. This is by far too great a quantity, particularly when it is +considered that neither partridges nor hares are in season, or can be +procured in any numbers, more than seven months in the year. Forty +thousand partridges and five thousand hares would, I think, be much +nearer the truth, and will be found, on calculation, to be ample +provision for eighty men for seven months, exclusive of any change. The +common weight of those birds is from eighteen to twenty-two ounces when +first killed; there are some few that are nearly that weight when fit +for the spit, but they are so scarce as by no means to serve as a +standard; and as they always hord with the common {413} size, there is +no room to suspect them of another species. As all those over-grown +partridges are notoriously known to be males, it is more than probable +that they are imperfect, and grow large and fat like capons; and every +one that has had an opportunity of tasting those large partridges, will +readily allow that they excel the common sort as much in flavour as they +do in size. It is remarked in those birds, as well as the Rock +Partridge, that they are provided with additional clothing, as it may be +called; for every feather, from the largest to the smallest, except the +quills and tail, are all double. The under-feather is soft and downy, +shooting from the shaft of the larger; and is wonderfully adapted to +their situation, as they not only brave the coldest Winters, but the +species now under consideration always burrow under the snow at nights, +and at day-light come forth to feed. In Winter they are always found to +frequent the banks of rivers and creeks, the sides of lakes and ponds, +and the plains which abound with dwarf willows; for it is on the buds +and tops of that tree they always feed during the Winter. In summer they +eat berries and small herbage. Their food in Winter being so dry and +harsh, makes it necessary for them to swallow a considerable quantity of +gravel to promote digestion; but the great depth of snow renders it very +scarce during that season. The Indians having considered this point, +invented the method now in use among the English, of catching them in +nets by means of that simple allurement, a heap of gravel. The nets for +this purpose are from eight {414} to twelve feet square, and are +stretched in a frame of wood, and usually set on the ice of rivers, +creeks, ponds, and lakes, about one hundred yards from the willows, but +in some situations not half that distance. Under the center of the net a +heap of snow is thrown up to the size of one or two bushels, and when +well packed is covered with gravel. To set the nets, when thus prepared, +requires no other trouble than lifting up one side of the frame, and +supporting it with two small props, about four feet long: a line is +fastened to those props, and the other end being conveyed to the +neighbouring willows, is always so contrived that a man can get to it +without being seen by the birds under the net. When every thing is thus +prepared, the hunters have nothing to do but go into the adjacent +willows and woods, and when they start game, endeavour to drive them +into the net, which at times is no hard task, as they frequently run +before them like chickens; and sometimes require no driving, for as soon +as they see the black heap of gravel on the white snow they fly straight +towards it. The hunter then goes to the end of the line to watch their +motions, and when he sees there are as many about the gravel as the net +can cover, or as many as are likely to go under at that time, with a +sudden pull he hauls down the stakes, and the net falls horizontally on +the snow, and encloses the greatest part of the birds that are under it. +The hunter then runs to the net as soon as possible, and kills all the +birds by biting them at the back of the head. He then sets up the net, +{415} takes away all the dead game, and repeats the operation as often +as he pleases, or as long as the birds are in good humour. By this +simple contrivance I have known upwards of three hundred partridges +caught in one morning by three persons; and a much greater number might +have been procured had it been thought necessary. Early in the morning, +just at break of day, and early in the afternoon, is the best time for +this sport. It is common to get from thirty to seventy at one hawl; and +in the Winter of one thousand seven hundred and eighty-six, Mr. Prince, +then Master of a sloop at Churchill River, actually caught two hundred +and four at two hawls. They are by no means equally plentiful every +year; for in some Winters I have known them so scarce, that it was +impossible to catch any in nets, and all that could be procured with the +gun would hardly afford one day's allowance per week to the men during +the season; but in the Winter one thousand seven hundred and +eighty-five, they were so plentiful near Churchill, and such numbers +were brought to the Factory, that I gave upward of two thousand to the +hogs. In the latter end of March, or the beginning of April, those birds +begin to change from white to their beautiful Summer plumage, and the +first brown feathers make their appearance on the neck,[CI] and by +degrees {416} spread over the whole body; but their Summer dress is +seldom complete till July. The feathers of those birds make excellent +beds, and as they are the perquisite of the hunters, are usually sold to +the Captains and Mates of the Company's ships, at the easy rate of three +pence per pound. + +[Sidenote: Rock Partridges.] + +ROCK PARTRIDGES.[179] This species of Grouse are in Winter of the same +colour as the former, but inferior in size; being in general not more +than two-thirds of the weight. They have a black line from the bill to +the eye, and differ in nature and manner from the Willow Partridge. They +never frequent the woods or willows, but brave the severest cold on the +open plains. They always feed on the buds and tops of the dwarf birch, +and after this repast, generally sit on the high ridges of snow, with +their heads to windward. They are never caught in nets, like the Willow +Partridge; for when in want of gravel, their bills are of such an +amazing strength, that they pick a sufficient quantity out of the rocks. +Beside, being so much inferior in size to the former species, their +flesh is by no means so good, being black, hard, and bitter. They are in +general, like the Wood Partridge, either exceeding wild or very tame; +and when in the latter humour, I have {417} known one man kill one +hundred and twenty in a few hours; for as they usually keep in large +flocks, the sportsmen can frequently kill six or eight at a shot. These, +like the Willow Partridge, change their plumage in Summer to a beautiful +speckled brown; and at that season are so hardy, that, unless shot in +the head or vitals, they will fly away with the greatest quantity of +shot of any bird I know. They discover great fondness for their young; +for during the time of incubation, they will frequently suffer +themselves to be taken by hand off their eggs.[CJ] Pigeons[180] of a +small size, not larger than a thrush, are in some Summers found as far +North as Churchill River. The bill is of a flesh-colour, legs red, and +the greatest part of the plumage of a light lilac or blush. In the +interior parts of the country they fly in large flocks, and perch on the +poplar trees in such numbers that I have seen twelve of them killed at +one shot. They usually feed on {418} poplar buds, and are good eating, +though seldom fat. They build their nests in trees, the same as the Wood +Pigeons do; never lay but two eggs, and are very scarce near the +sea-coast in the Northern parts of Hudson's Bay. + +[Sidenote: Red-breasted Thrush.] + +The RED-BREASTED THRUSHES, commonly called in Hudson's Bay the Red +Birds,[181] but by some the Black Birds, on account of their note, and +by others the American Fieldfares usually make their appearance at +Churchill River about the middle of May, build their nests of mud, like +the English Thrush, and lay four beautiful blue eggs. They have a very +loud and pleasing note, which they generally exercise most in the +mornings and evenings, when perched on some lofty tree near their nest; +but when the young can fly they are silent, and migrate to the South +early in the Fall. They are by no means numerous, and are generally seen +in pairs; they are never sought after as an article of food, but when +killed by the Indian boys, are esteemed good eating, though they always +feed on worms and insects. + +[Sidenote: Grosbeak.] + +GROSBEAK.[182] These gay birds visit Churchill River in some years so +early as the latter end of March, but are by no means plentiful; they +are always seen in pairs, and generally feed on the buds of the poplar +and willow. The male is in most parts of its plumage of a beautiful +crimson, but the female of a dull dirty green. In form they much +resemble the English bullfinch, but are near {419} double their size. +They build their nests in trees, sometimes not far from the ground; lay +four white eggs, and always hatch them in June. They are said to have a +pleasing note in Spring, though I never heard it, and are known to +retire to the South early in the Fall. The English residing in Hudson's +Bay generally call this bird the American Red Bird. + +[Sidenote: Snow Bunting.] + +SNOW BUNTINGS,[183] universally known in Hudson's Bay by the name of the +Snow Birds, and in the Isles of Orkney by the name of Snow Flakes, from +their visiting those parts in such numbers as to devour the grain as +soon as sown, in some years are so destructive as to oblige the farmer +to sow his fields a second, and occasionally a third time. These birds +make their appearance at the Northern settlements in the Bay about the +latter end of May, or beginning of April, [_sic_] when they are very +fat, and not inferior in flavour to an ortolan. On their first arrival +they generally feed on grass-seeds, and are fond of frequenting +dunghills. At that time they are easily caught in great numbers under a +net baited with groats or oatmeal; but as the Summer advances, they feed +much on worms, and are then not so much esteemed. They sometimes fly in +such large flocks, that I have killed upwards of twenty at one shot, and +have known others who have killed double that number. In the Spring +their plumage is prettily variegated, black and white; but their Summer +dress may be called elegant, though not gay. They live {420} long in +confinement, have naturally a pleasing note, and when in company with +Canary birds soon imitate their song. I have kept many of them in cages +in the same room with Canary birds, and always found they sung in Winter +as well as in Summer; but even in confinement they change their plumage +according to the season, the same as in a wild state. This species of +bird seem fond of the coldest regions, for as the Spring advances they +fly so far North that their breeding-places are not known to the +inhabitants of Hudson's Bay. In Autumn they return to the South in large +flocks, and are frequently shot in considerable numbers merely as a +delicacy; at that season, however, they are by no means so good as when +they first make their appearance in Spring. + +[Sidenote: White-crowned Bunting.] + +WHITE-CROWNED BUNTING.[184] This species is inferior in size to the +former, and seldom make their appearance till June. They breed in most +parts of the Bay, always make their nests on the ground, at the root of +a dwarf willow or a gooseberry-bush. During the time their young are in +a callow state they have a delightful note, but as soon as they are +fledged they become silent, and retire to the South early in September. + +[Sidenote: Lapland Finch.] + +LAPLAND FINCH.[185] This bird is common on Hudson's Bay, and never +migrates Southward in the coldest Winters. During that season it +generally frequents the juniper plains, and feeds on the small buds of +that tree, also on grass-seeds; {421} but at the approach of Summer it +flies still farther North to breed. A variety of this bird is also +common, and is beautifully marked with a red forehead and breast.[186] +It is most common in the Spring, and frequently caught in nets set for +the Snow Bunting; and when kept in cages has a pleasing note, but seldom +lives long in confinement, though it generally dies very fat. + +[Sidenote: Larks.] + +LARKS[187] of a pretty variegated colour frequent those parts in Summer, +and always make their appearance in May; build their nests on the +ground, usually by the side of a stone at the root of a small bush, lay +four speckled eggs, and bring forth their young in June. At their first +arrival, and till the young can fly, the male is in full song; and, like +the sky-lark, soars to a great height, and generally descends in a +perpendicular direction near their nest. Their note is loud and +agreeable, but consists of little variety, and as soon as the young can +fly they become silent, and retire to the Southward early in the Fall. +They are impatient of confinement, never sing in that state, and seldom +live long. + +[Sidenote: Titmouse.] + +The TITMOUSE[188] is usually called in Hudson's Bay, Blackcap. This +diminutive bird braves the coldest Winter, and during that season feeds +on the seeds of long rye-grass, but in Summer on insects and berries. +The Southern Indians call this bird Kiss-kiss-heshis, from a twittering +noise they make, which much resembles that word in sound. + +[Sidenote: Swallows.] + +{422} SWALLOWS[189] visit these parts in considerable numbers in Summer, +and are very domestic; building their nests in necessaries, stables, and +other out-offices that are much frequented. They seldom make their +appearance at Churchill River till June, and retire South early in +August. They, like the European Swallow, gather in large flocks on the +day of their departure, make several revolutions round the +breeding-places, and then take their leave till the next year. I do not +recollect to have seen any of those birds to the North of Seal River. + +[Sidenote: Martins.] + +MARTINS[190] also visit Hudson's Bay in great numbers, but seldom so far +North as Churchill River. They usually make their nests in holes formed +in the steep banks of rivers; and, like the Swallow, lay four or five +speckled eggs; and retire Southward in August. At the Northern +settlements they are by no means so domestic as the Swallow. + +[Sidenote: Hooping Crane.] + +HOOPING CRANE.[191] This bird visits Hudson's Bay in the Spring, though +not in great numbers. They are generally seen only in pairs, and that +not very often. It is a bird of considerable size, often equal to that +of a good turkey, and the great length of the bill, neck, and legs, +makes it measure, from the bill to the toes, near six feet in common, +and some much more. Its plumage is of a pure white, except the +quill-feathers, which are black; the crown is covered with a red skin, +{423} thinly beset with black bristles, and the legs are large and +black. It usually frequents open swamps, the sides of rivers, and the +margins of lakes and ponds, feeds on frogs and small fish, and esteemed +good eating. The wing-bones of this bird are so long and large, that I +have known them made into flutes with tolerable success. It seldom has +more than two young, and retires Southward early in the fall. + +[Sidenote: Brown Crane.] + +The BROWN CRANE.[192] This species is far inferior in size to the +former, being seldom three feet and a half in length, and on an average +not weighing seven pounds. Their haunts and manner of life are nearly +the same as that of the Hooping Crane, and they never have more than two +young, and those seldom fly till September. They are found farther North +than the former, for I have killed several of them on Marble Island, and +have seen them on the Continent as high as the latitude 65 deg.. They are +generally esteemed good eating, and, from the form of the body when fit +for the spit, they acquire the name of the North West Turkey. There is a +circumstance respecting this bird that is very peculiar; which is, that +the gizzard is larger than that of a swan, and remarkably so in the +young birds. The Brown Cranes are frequently seen in hot calm days to +soar to an amazing height, always flying in circles, till by degrees +they are almost out of sight, yet their note is so loud, that the +sportsman, before he sees their situation, often fancies they are very +near him. They visit {424} Hudson's Bay in far greater numbers than the +former, and are very good eating. + +[Sidenote: Bitterns.] + +BITTERNS[193] are common at York Fort in Summer, but are seldom found so +far North as Churchill River. I have seen two species of this bird; some +having ash-coloured legs, others with beautiful grass-green legs, and +very gay plumage. They always frequent marshes and swamps, also the +banks of rivers that abound with reeds and long grass. They generally +feed on insects that are bred in the water, and probably on small frogs; +and though seldom fat, they are generally good eating. They are by no +means numerous even at York Fort, nor in fact in the most Southern parts +of the Bay that I have visited. + +[Sidenote: Curlew.] + +CURLEWS.[194] There are two species of this bird which frequent the +coasts of Hudson's Bay in great numbers during Summer, and breed in all +parts of it as far North as the latitude 72 deg.; the largest of this +species is distinguished by that great Naturalist Mr. Pennant, by the +name of the Esquimaux Curlew. They always keep near the sea coast; +attend the ebbing of the tide, and are frequently found at +low-water-mark in great numbers, where they feed on marine insects, +which they find by the sides of stones in great plenty; but at +high-water they retire to the dry ridges and wait the receding of the +tide. They fly as steady as a woodcock, answer to a whistle that +resembles their note; lay long on their wings, and are a {425} most +excellent shot, and at times are delicious eating. The other species of +Curlew are in colour and shape exactly like the former, though inferior +in size, and differ in their manner of life, as they never frequent the +water's-edge, but always keep among the rocks and dry ridges, and feed +on berries and small insects. The flesh of this bird is generally more +esteemed than that of the former, but they are by no means so numerous. +This species of Curlew are seldom found farther North than Egg River. + +[Sidenote: Jack Snipe.] + +JACK SNIPES.[195] Those birds visit Hudson's Bay in Summer in +considerable numbers, but are seldom seen to the North of Whale Cove. +They do not arrive till the ice of the rivers is broke up, and they +retire to the South early in the Fall. During their stay, they always +frequent marshes near the sea coast, and the shores of great rivers. In +manner and flight they exactly resemble the European Jack Snipe; and +when on the wing, fly at such a distance from each other, that it is but +seldom the best sportsman can get more than one or two at a shot. Their +flesh is by no means so delicate as that of the English Snipe. + +[Sidenote: Red Godwait.] + +RED GODWAITS,[196] usually called at the Northern settlements in +Hudson's Bay, Plovers. Those birds visit the shores of that part in very +large flocks, and usually frequent the marshes and the margins of ponds. +They also frequently attend the tide, like the Esquimaux Curlews; fly +down to low-water-mark, and feed on a small fish, {426} not much unlike +a shrimp; but as the tide flows, they retire to the marshes. They fly in +such large flocks, and so close to each other, that I have often killed +upwards of twelve at one shot; and Mr. Atkinson, long resident at York +Fort, actually killed seventy-two at one shot; but that was when the +birds were sitting. Near Churchill River they are seldom fat, though +tolerably fleshy, and are generally good eating. They usually weigh from +ten to thirteen ounces; the female is always larger than the male, and +differs in colour, being of a much lighter brown. They retire to the +South long before the frost commences; yet I have seen this bird as far +North as the latitude 71 deg. 50'. + +[Sidenote: Spotted Godwait.] + +SPOTTED GODWAIT,[197] known in Hudson's Bay by the name of Yellow Legs. +This bird also visits that country in considerable numbers, but more so +in the interior parts; and usually frequents the flat muddy banks of +rivers. In summer it is generally very poor, but late in the Fall is, as +it may be called, one lump of fat. This bird, with many others of the +migratory tribe, I saw in considerable numbers as far North as the +latitude 71 deg. 54'; and at York Fort I have known them shot so late as the +latter end of October: at which time they are in the greatest +perfection, and most delicious eating, more particularly so when put +into a bit of paste, and boiled like an apple-dumpling; for in fact they +are generally too fat at that season to be eaten either roasted or +boiled. + +[Sidenote: Hebridal Sandpipers.] + +{427} HEBRIDAL SANDPIPERS,[198] but more commonly known in Hudson's Bay +by the Name of Whale Birds, on account of their feeding on the carcases +of those animals which frequently lie on the shores, also on maggots +that are produced in them by fly-blows. These birds frequent those parts +in considerable numbers, and always keep near the margin of the sea. +They may, in fact, be called beautiful birds, though not gay in their +plumage; they are usually very fat, but even when first killed they +smell and taste so much like train-oil as to render them by no means +pleasing to the palate, yet they are frequently eaten by the Company's +servants. As the Summer advances they fly so far North of Churchill +River, that their breeding-places are not known, though they remain at +that part till the beginning of July, and return early in the Fall. They +are by no means large birds, as they seldom weigh four ounces. The bill +is black, plumage prettily variegated black and white, and the legs and +feet are of a beautiful orange colour.[CK] + +[Sidenote: Plover.] + +PLOVERS,[199] commonly called Hawk's Eyes, from their watchfulness to +prevent a near approach when sitting. When these birds are on the wing, +they fly very swift and irregular, particularly when single or in small +flocks. At Churchill River they are by no means numerous, but I have +seen them in such large flocks at York Fort in the Fall of one {428} +thousand seven hundred and seventy-three, that Mr. Ferdinand Jacobs then +Governor, Mr. Robert Body Surgeon, and myself, killed in one afternoon +as many as two men could conveniently carry. They generally feed on +insects, and are at all times good eating, but late in the Fall are most +excellent. They are by no means equally plentiful in all years; and at +the Northern settlements in the Bay they are not classed with those +species of game that add to the general stock of provisions, being only +killed as a luxury; but I am informed that at Albany Fort, several +barrels of them are annually salted for Winter use, and are esteemed +good eating. This bird during Summer resorts to the remotest Northern +parts; for I have seen them at the Copper River, though in those dreary +regions only in pairs. The young of those birds always leave their nests +as soon as hatched, and when but a few days old run very fast; at night, +or in rainy weather, the old ones call them together, and cover them +with their wings, in the same manner as a hen does her chickens. + +[Sidenote: Black Gullemots.] + +BLACK GULLEMOTS,[200] known in Hudson's Bay by the name of Sea Pigeons. +Those birds frequent the shores of Hudson's Bay and Straits in +considerable numbers; but more particularly the Northern parts, where +they fly in large flocks; to the Southward they are only seen in pairs. +They are of a fine black, but not glossy, with scarlet legs and feet; +and the coverets of the wings are marked with white. They are in weight +equal to a Widgeon, {429} though to appearance not so large. They +usually make their nests in the holes of rocks, and lay two white eggs, +which are delicate eating, but not proportionably large for the size of +the bird. My friend Mr. Pennant says, they brave the coldest Winters in +those parts, by keeping at the edge of the ice near the open water; but +as the sea at that season is frozen over for several miles from the +shore, I believe no one's curiosity ever tempted him to confirm the +truth of this; and it is well known they never make their appearance +near the land after the frost becomes severe. + +[Sidenote: Northern Divers.] + +NORTHERN DIVERS.[201] These birds, though common in Hudson's Bay, are by +no means plentiful; they are seldom found near the sea coast, but more +frequently in fresh water lakes, and usually in pairs. They build their +nests at the edge of small islands, or the margins of lakes or ponds; +they lay only two eggs, and it is very common to find only one pair and +their young in one sheet of water; a great proof of their aversion to +society. They are known in Hudson's Bay by the name of Loons. They +differ in species from the Black and Red throated Divers, having a large +black bill near four inches long; plumage on the back of a glossy black, +elegantly barred with white; the belly of a silver white; and they are +so large as at times to weigh fifteen or sixteen pounds. Their flesh is +always black, hard, and fishy, yet it is generally eaten by the Indians. + +[Sidenote: Black-throated Divers.] + +{430} BLACK-THROATED DIVERS.[202] This species are more beautiful than +the former; having a long white bill, plumage on the back and wings +black, elegantly tinged with purple and green, and prettily marked with +white spots. In size they are equal to the former; but are so watchful +as to dive at the flash of a gun, and of course are seldom killed but +when on the wing. Their flesh is equally black and fishy with the +former, but it is always eaten by the Indians. The skins of those birds +are very thick and strong, and they are frequently dressed with the +feathers on, and made into caps for the Indian men. The skins of the +Eagle and Raven, with their plumage complete, are also applied to that +use, and are far from being an unbecoming head-dress for a savage. + +[Sidenote: Red-throated Divers.] + +RED-THROATED DIVERS.[203] This species are also called Loons in Hudson's +Bay; but they are so far inferior to the two former, that they seldom +weigh more than three or four pounds. They, like the other species of +Loon, are excellent divers; they always feed on fish, and when in +pursuit of their prey, are frequently entangled in fishing-nets, set at +the mouths of creeks and small rivers. They are more numerous than +either of the former, as they frequently fly in flocks; but like them +make their nests at the edge of the water, and only lay two eggs, which, +though very rank and fishy, are always eaten by Indians and English. The +legs of those three species of Loon are placed so near {431} the rump as +to be of no service to them on the land, as they are perfectly incapable +of walking; and when found in that situation (which is but seldom) they +are easily taken, though they make a strong resistance with their bill, +which is very hard and sharp. + +[Sidenote: White Gulls.] + +WHITE GULLS.[204] These birds visit Hudson's Bay in great numbers, both +on the sea coasts and in the interior parts, and probably extend quite +across the continent of America. They generally make their appearance at +Churchill River about the middle of May; build their nests on the +islands in lakes and rivers; lay two speckled eggs, and bring forth +their young in June. Their eggs are generally esteemed good eating, as +well as the flesh of those in the interior parts of the country, though +they feed on fish and carrion. They make their stay on Hudson's Bay as +long in the Fall as the frost will permit them to procure a livelihood. + +[Sidenote: Grey Gulls.] + +GREY GULLS. These birds, though common, are by no means plentiful; and I +never knew their breeding-places, as they seldom make their appearance +at Churchill River till the Fall of the year, and remain there only till +the ice begins to be formed about the shores. They seldom frequent the +interior parts of the country. They are not inferior in size to the +former, and in the Fall of the year are generally fat. The flesh is +white and very good eating; and, like {432} most other Gulls, they are a +most excellent shot when on the wing. + +[Sidenote: Black Gulls.] + +BLACK GULLS,[205] usually called in Hudson's Bay, Men of War, from their +pursuing and taking the prey from a lesser species of Gull, known in +that country by the name of Black-head. In size they are much inferior +to the two former species; but, like them, always make their nests on +islands, or at the margins of lakes or ponds; they lay only two eggs, +and are found at a considerable distance from the sea coast. The length +of their wings is very great in proportion to the body; the tail is +uniform, and the two middle feathers are four or five inches longer than +the rest. Their eggs are always eaten, both by the Indians and English; +but the bird itself is generally rejected, except when other provisions +are very scarce. + +[Sidenote: Black-heads.] + +BLACK-HEADS.[206] These are the smallest species of Gull that I know. +They visit the sea coast of Hudson's Bay in such vast numbers, that they +are frequently seen in flocks of several hundreds; and I have known +bushels of their eggs taken on an island of very small circumference. +These eggs are very delicate eating, the yolks being equal to that of a +young pullet, and the whites of a semi-transparent azure, but the bird +itself is always fishy. Their affection for their young is so strong, +that when any person attempts to rob their nests, they fly at him, and +sometimes {433} approach so near as to touch him with their pinions; and +when they find their loss, will frequently follow the plunderer to a +considerable distance, and express their grief by making an unusual +screaming noise. + +This bird may be ranked with the elegant part of the feathered creation, +though it is by no means gay. The bill, legs, and feet are of a rich +scarlet; crown black, and the remainder of the plumage of a light +ash-colour, except the quill feathers, which are prettily barred, and +tipped with black, and the tail much forked. The flight, or extent of +wing, in this bird, is very great, in proportion to the body. They are +found as far North as has hitherto been visited, but retire to the South +early in the Fall. + +[Sidenote: Pelicans.] + +PELICANS.[207] Those birds are numerous in the interior parts of the +country, but never appear near the sea-coast. They generally frequent +large lakes, and always make their nests on islands. They are so +provident for their young, that great quantities of fish lie rotting +near their nests, and emit such a horrid stench as to be smelt at a +considerable distance. The flesh of the young Pelican is frequently +eaten by the Indians; and as they are always very fat, great quantities +of it is melted down, and preserved in bladders for Winter use,[CL] to +mix with pounded {434} flesh; but by keeping, it grows very rank. The +Pelicans in those parts are about the size of a common goose; their +plumage is of a delicate white, except the quill-feathers, which are +black. The bill is near a foot long; and the bag, which reaches from the +outer-end of the under-mandible to the breast, is capable of containing +upwards of three quarts. The skins of those birds are thick and tough, +and are frequently dressed by the Indians and converted into bags, but +are never made into clothing, though their feathers are as hard, close, +and durable, as those of a Loon. + +[Sidenote: Goosanders.] + +GOOSANDERS,[208] usually called in Hudson's Bay, Shell-drakes. Those +birds are very common on the sea-coast, but in the interior parts fly in +very large flocks. The bill is long and narrow, and toothed like a saw; +and they have a tuft of feathers at the back of the head, which they can +erect at pleasure. They are most excellent divers, and such great +destroyers of fish, that they are frequently obliged to vomit some of +them before they can take flight. Though not much larger than the +Mallard Duck, they frequently swallow fish of six or seven inches {435} +long and proportionably thick. Those that frequent the interior parts of +the country prey much on crawfish, which are very numerous in some of +the shallow stony rivers. In the Fall of the year they are very fat, and +though they always feed on fish, yet their flesh at that season is very +good; and they remain in those parts as long as the frost will permit +them to procure a subsistence. + +[Sidenote: Swans.] + +SWANS.[209] There are two species of this bird that visit Hudson's Bay +in summer; and only differ in size, as the plumage of both are perfectly +white, with black bill and legs. The smaller sort are more frequent near +the sea-coast, but by no means plentiful, and are most frequently seen +in pairs, but sometimes single, probably owing to their mates having +been killed on their passage North. Both species usually breed on the +islands which are in lakes; and the eggs of the larger species are so +big, that one of them is a sufficient meal for a moderate man, without +bread, or any other addition. In the interior parts of the country the +larger Swan precedes every other species of water-fowl, and in some +years arrive so early as the month of March, long before the ice of the +rivers is broken up. At those times they always frequent the open waters +of falls and rapids, where they are frequently shot by the Indians in +considerable numbers. They usually weigh upwards of thirty pounds, and +the lesser species from eighteen to twenty-four. The flesh of both are +excellent {436} eating, and when roasted, is equal in flavour to young +heifer-beef, and the cygnets are very delicate. + +Notwithstanding the size of this bird, they are so swift on the wing as +to make them the most difficult to shoot of any bird I know, it being +frequently necessary to take sight ten or twelve feet before their +bills. This, however, is only when flying before the wind in a brisk +gale, at which time they cannot fly at a less rate than an hundred miles +an hour; but when flying across the wind, or against it, they make but a +slow progress, and are then a noble shot. In their moulting state they +are not easily taken, as their large feet, with the assistance of their +wings, enables them to run on the surface of the water as fast as an +Indian canoe can be paddled, and therefore they are always obliged to be +shot; for by diving and other manoeuvres they render it impossible to +take them by hand. It has been said that the swans whistle or sing +before their death, and I have read some elegant descriptions of it in +some of the poets; but I have never heard any thing of the kind, though +I have been at the deaths of several. It is true, in serene evenings, +after Sun-set, I have heard them make a noise not very unlike that of a +French-horn, but entirely divested of every note that constituted +melody, and have often been sorry to find it did not forebode their +death. Mr. Lawson, who, as Mr. Pennant justly remarks, was no inaccurate +observer, properly enough calls the largest species Trumpeters, and the +lesser, Hoopers. Some years ago, when I built Cumberland House, the +Indians killed those {437} birds in such numbers, that the down and +quills might have been procured in considerable quantities at a trifling +expence; but since the depopulation of the natives by the small-pox, +which has also driven the few survivors to frequent other parts of the +country, no advantage can be made of those articles, though of +considerable value in England.[CM] + +[Sidenote: Geese.] + +GEESE. There are no less than ten different species of Geese that +frequent the various parts of Hudson's Bay during Summer, and are as +follow: First, The Common Grey Goose. Second, The Canada Goose. Third, +The White, or Snow Goose. Fifth, The Blue Goose. Sixth, The Laughing +Goose. Seventh, The Barren Goose. Eighth, The Brent Goose. Ninth, The +Dunter; and Tenth, the Bean Goose. + +[Sidenote: Common Grey Goose.] + +COMMON GREY GOOSE.[210] This bird precedes every other species of Goose +in those parts, and in some forward Springs arrives at Churchill River +so early as the latter {438} end of April, but more commonly from the +eleventh to the sixteenth of May; and in one year it was the +twenty-sixth of May before any Geese made their appearance. At their +first arrival they generally come in pairs, and are so fond of society, +that they fly straight to the call that imitates their note; by which +means they are easily shot. They breed in great numbers in the plains +and marshes near Churchill River; and in some years the young ones can +be taken in considerable numbers, and are easily tamed; but will never +learn to eat corn, unless some of the old ones are taken with them, +which is easily done when in a moulting state. On the ninth of August +one thousand seven hundred and eighty-one, when I resided at Prince of +Wales's Fort, I sent some Indians up Churchill River in canoes to +procure some of those Geese, and in the afternoon they were seen coming +down the river with a large flock before them; the young ones not more +than half-grown, and the old ones so far in a moulting state as not to +be capable of flying; so that, with the assistance of the English and +the Indians then residing on the plantation, the whole flock, to the +amount of forty-one, was drove within the stockade which incloses the +Fort, where they were fed and fattened for Winter use. Wild Geese taken +and fattened in this manner are much preferable to any tame Geese in the +world. When this species of Geese are full-grown, and in good condition, +they often weigh twelve pounds, but more frequently much less. + +[Sidenote: Canada Goose.] + +{439} CANADA GOOSE,[211] or Pisk-a-sish, as it is called by the Indians, +as well as the English in Hudson's Bay. This species do not differ in +plumage from the former, but are inferior in size; the bill is much +smaller in proportion, and the flesh being much whiter, of course is +more esteemed. They are by no means so numerous as the former, and +generally fly far North to breed; but some few of their eggs are found +near Churchill River. It is seldom that either of these species lay more +than four eggs; but if not robbed, they usually bring them all forth. + +[Sidenote: White or Snow Goose.] + +WHITE or SNOW GOOSE.[212] These are the most numerous of all the species +of birds that frequent the Northern parts of the Bay, and generally make +their appearance about a week or ten days after the Common Grey Goose. +In the first part of the season they come in small parties, but in the +middle, and toward the latter end, they fly in such amazing flocks, that +when they settle in the marshes to feed, the ground for a considerable +distance appears like a field of snow. When feeding in the same marsh +with the Grey Geese, they never mix. Like the Grey Geese, they fly to +the call that resembles their note; and in some years are killed and +salted in great numbers for Winter provision; they are almost +universally thought good eating, and will, if proper care be taken in +curing them, continue good for eighteen months or two years. The Indians +are far more expert in killing Geese, as well as every other species of +game, than any European I ever saw in Hudson's Bay; {440} for some of +them frequently kill upward of a hundred Geese in a day, whereas the +most expert of the English think it a good day's work to kill thirty. +Some years back it was common for an Indian to kill from a thousand to +twelve hundred Geese in one season; but latterly he is reckoned a good +hunter that kills three hundred. This is by no means owing to the +degeneracy of the natives; for the Geese of late years do not frequent +those parts in such numbers as formerly. The general breeding-place of +this bird is not known to any Indian in Hudson's Bay, not even to the +Esquimaux who frequent the remotest North. The general route they take +in their return to the South in the Fall of the year, is equally +unknown; for though such multitudes of them are seen at Churchill River +in the Spring, and are frequently killed to the amount of five or six +thousand; yet in the Fall of the year, seven or eight hundred is +considered a good hunt. At York Fort, though only two degrees South of +Churchill River, the Geese seasons fluctuate so much, that in some +Springs they have salted forty hogsheads, and in others not more than +one or two: and at Albany Fort, the Spring season is by no means to be +depended on; but in the fall they frequently salt sixty hogsheads of +Geese, besides great quantities of Plover. The retreat of those birds in +Winter is equally unknown, as that of their breeding-places. I observe +in Mr. Pennant's Arctic Zoology, that about Jakutz, and other parts of +Siberia, they are caught in great numbers, both in nets, and by decoying +them into hovels; but if {441} these are the same birds, they must at +times vary as much in manner as they do in situation, for in Hudson's +Bay they are the shyest and most watchful of all the species of Geese, +never suffering an open approach, not even within two or three +gun-shots: yet in some of the rivers near Cumberland House, and at +Basquiau, the Indians frequently kill twenty at one shot; but this is +only done in moon-light nights, when the Geese are sitting on the mud, +and the sportsmen are perfectly concealed from their view. Though the +plumage of those Geese are perfectly white, except the quill-feathers, +which are black, the skin is of a dark lead-colour, and the flesh is +excellent eating, either fresh or salt. They are much inferior in size +to the Common Grey Geese, but equal to the Canada Geese. + +[Sidenote: Blue Geese.] + +BLUE GEESE.[213] This species are of the same size as the Snow Geese; +and, like them, the bill and legs are of a deep flesh-colour, but the +whole plumage is of a dirty blue, resembling old lead. The skin, when +stripped of its feathers, is of the same colour as the Snow Goose, and +they are equally good eating. This species of Geese are seldom seen to +the North of Churchill River, and not very common at York Fort; but at +Albany Fort they are more plentiful than the White or Snow Geese. Their +breeding-places are as little known to the most accurate observer as +those of the Snow Geese; for I never knew any of their eggs taken, and +their Winter haunts have {442} hitherto been undiscovered. Those birds +are frequently seen to lead a flock of the White ones; and, as they +generally fly in angles, it is far from unpleasant to see a bird of a +different colour leading the van. The leader is generally the object of +the first sportsman who fires, which throws the whole flock into such +confusion, that some of the other hunters frequently kill six or seven +at a shot. + +[Sidenote: Horned Wavey.] + +HORNED WAVEY.[214] This delicate and diminutive species of the Goose is +not much larger than the Mallard Duck. Its plumage is delicately white, +except the quill-feathers, which are black. The bill is not more than an +inch long, and at the base is studded round with little knobs about the +size of peas, but more remarkably so in the males. Both the bill and +feet are of the same colour with those of the Snow Goose. This species +is very scarce at Churchill River, and I believe are never found at any +of the Southern settlements; but about two or three hundred miles to the +North West of Churchill, I have seen them in as large flocks as the +Common Wavey, or Snow Goose. The flesh of this bird is exceedingly +delicate; but they are so small, that when I was on my journey to the +North I eat two of them one night for supper. I do not find this bird +described by my worthy friend Mr. Pennant in his Arctic Zoology. +Probably a specimen of it was not sent home, for the person that +commanded at Prince of Wales's Fort[CN] at {443} the time the collection +was making, did not pay any attention to it. + +[Sidenote: Laughing Goose.] + +LAUGHING GOOSE.[215] This elegant species has a white bill, and the legs +and feet are of a fine yellow colour; the upper part of the plumage is +brown, the breast and belly white, the former prettily blotched with +black. In size they are equal to the Snow Goose, and their skins, when +stripped of their feathers, are delicately white, and the flesh +excellent. They visit Churchill River in very small numbers; but about +two hundred miles to the North West of that river I have seen them fly +in large flocks, like the Common Waveys, or Snow Geese; and near +Cumberland House and Basquiau they are found in such numbers, that the +Indians in moon-light nights frequently kill upwards of twenty at a +shot. Like the Horned Wavey, they never fly with the lead of the coast, +but are always seen to come from the Westward. Their general +breeding-places are not known, though some few of their eggs are +occasionally found to the North of Churchill; but I never heard any +Indian say that he had seen any eggs of the Horned Wavey: it is probable +they retire to North Greenland to breed; and their route in the Fall of +the year, as they return Southward, is equally unknown. They are, I +believe, seldom seen on the coast of Hudson's Bay to the Southward of +latitude 59 deg. North. + +[Sidenote: Barren Geese.] + +{444} BARREN GEESE.[216] These are the largest of all the species of +Geese that frequent Hudson's Bay, as they frequently weigh sixteen or +seventeen pounds. They differ from the Common Grey Goose in nothing but +in size, and in the head and breast being tinged with a rusty brown. +They never make their appearance in the Spring till the greatest part of +the other species of Geese are flown Northward to breed, and many of +them remain near Churchill River the whole Summer. This large species +are generally found to be males, and from the exceeding smallness of +their testicles, they are, I suppose, incapable of propagating their +species. I believe I can with truth say, that I was the first European +who made that remark, though they had always been distinguished by the +name of the Barren Geese; for no other reason than that of their not +being known to breed. Their flesh is by no means unpleasant, though +always hard and tough; and their plumage is so thick before they begin +to moult, that one bird usually produces a pound of fine feathers and +down, of a surprising elasticity. + +[Sidenote: Brent Geese.] + +BRENT GEESE.[217] This species certainly breed in the remotest parts of +the North, and seldom make their appearance at Churchill River till late +in August or September. The route they take in Spring is unknown, and +their breeding-places have never been discovered by any Indian in +Hudson's Bay. When they make their appearance at {445} Churchill River, +they always come from the North, fly near the margin of the coast, and +are never seen in the interior parts of the country. In size they are +larger than a Mallard Duck, but inferior to the Snow Goose; and though +their flesh appears delicate to the eye, it is not much esteemed. In +some years they pass the mouth of Churchill River in prodigious numbers, +and many of them are killed and served to the Company's servants as +provisions; but, as I have just observed, they are not much relished. +When migrating to the South, they generally avail themselves of a strong +North or North Westerly wind, which makes them fly so swift, that when I +have killed four or five at a shot, not one of them fell less than from +twenty to fifty yards from the perpendicular spot where they were +killed. Like the White, or Snow Geese, when in large flocks they fly in +the shape of a wedge, and make a great noise. Their flight is very +irregular, sometimes being forty or fifty yards above the water, and in +an instant after they skim close to the surface of it, and then rise +again to a considerable height; so that they may justly be said to fly +in festoons. + +[Sidenote: Dunter Geese.] + +The DUNTER GEESE,[218] as it is called in Hudson's Bay, but which is +certainly the Eider Duck. They are common at the mouth of Churchill +River as soon as the ice breaks up, but generally fly far North to +breed; and the few that do remain near the settlement are so scattered +among small islands, and sea-girt rocks and shoals, as to {446} render +it not worth while to attempt gathering their down. Their eggs, when +found, are exceeding good eating; and in the Fall of the year the flesh +is by no means unpleasant, though they are notoriously known to feed on +fish. + +[Sidenote: Bean Goose.] + +BEAN GOOSE.[219] This species is seldom found in any part of Hudson's +Bay, as in all my travels I have only seen three that were killed. This +bird never came under the inspection of Mr. Graham, or the late Mr. +Hutchins, though they both contributed very largely to the collection +sent home to the Royal Society.[CO] + + +_Species of Water-Fowl._ + +[Sidenote: Ducks.] + +DUCKS of various kinds are found in those parts during Summer; some only +frequenting the sea-coast, while others visit the interior parts of the +country in astonishing numbers. The species of this bird which is found +most commonly here are, the King Duck,[220] Black Duck,[221] Mallard +{447} Duck,[222] Long-tailed Duck,[223] Widgeon,[224] and Teal.[225] The +two first only visit the sea-coast, feed on fish and fish-spawn; and +their flesh is by no means esteemed good, though their eggs are not +disagreeable. The Mallard and Long-tailed Duck visit Hudson's Bay in +great numbers, and extend from the sea-coast, to the remotest Western +parts, and near Cumberland House are found in vast multitudes. At their +first arrival on the sea-coast, they are exceeding good eating; but when +in a moulting state, though very fat, they are in general so rank that +few Europeans are fond of them. At those seasons the difference in +flavour is easily known by the colour of the fat; for when that is +white, the flesh is most assuredly good; but when it is yellow, or of an +orange colour, it is very rank and fishy. This difference is only +peculiar to those that frequent and breed near the sea-coast; for in the +interior parts I never knew them killed but their flesh was very good; +and the young Mallard Duck before it can fly is very fat, and most +delicate eating. The same may be said of the Long-tailed Duck. Neither +of those species lay more than six or eight eggs in common, and +frequently bring them all forth. + +[Sidenote: Widgeon.] + +WIDGEON.[226] This species of Duck is very uncommon in Hudson's Bay; +usually keeping in pairs, and being seldom seen in flocks. They are by +no means so numerous as the two former, and are most frequently seen in +rivers and marshes near the sea-coast. Their flesh is generally +esteemed; and the down of those I have examined is little inferior in +elasticity to that of the Eider, though much {448} shorter. The same may +be said of several other species of Ducks that frequent those parts; but +the impossibility of collecting the down in any quantity, prevents it +from becoming an article of trade. + +[Sidenote: Teal.] + +TEAL.[227] Like the Mallard, they are found in considerable numbers near +the sea-coast; but are more plentiful in the interior parts of the +country, and fly in such large flocks that I have often killed twelve or +fourteen at one shot, and have seen both English and Indians kill a much +greater number. At their first arrival they are but poor, though +generally esteemed good eating. This diminutive Duck is by far the most +prolific of any I know that resorts to Hudson's Bay; for I have often +seen the old ones swimming at the head of seventeen young, when not much +larger than walnuts. This bird remains in those parts as long as the +season will permit; for in the year one thousand seven hundred and +seventy-five, in my passage from Cumberland House to York Fort, I, as +well as my Indian companions, killed them in the rivers we passed +through as late as the twentieth of October. At those times they are +entirely involved in fat, but delicately white, and may truly be called +a great luxury. + +Besides the birds already described, there is a great variety of +others, both of land and water fowl, that frequent those parts in +Summer; but these came not so immediately under my inspection as those I +have already described. + + +{449} _Of the Vegetable Productions._ + +The vegetable productions of this country by no means engaged my +attention so much as the animal creation; which is the less to be +wondered at, as so few of them are useful for the support of man. Yet I +will endeavour to enumerate as many of them as I think are worth notice. + +[Sidenote: Gooseberries.] + +The GOOSEBERRIES[228] thrive best in stony and rocky ground, which lies +open and much exposed to the Sun. But in those situations few of the +bushes grow to any height, and spread along the ground like vines. The +fruit is always most plentiful and the finest on the under-side of the +branches, probably owing to the reflected heat from the stones and +gravel, and from being sheltered from all cold winds and fog by the +leaves. I never saw more than one species of Gooseberry in any part of +Hudson's Bay, which is the red one. When green, they make excellent pies +or tarts; and when ripe are very pleasant eating, though by no means so +large as those produced in England. + +[Sidenote: Cranberries.] + +CRANBERRIES[229] grow in great abundance near Churchill, and are not +confined to any particular situation, for they {450} are as common on +open bleak plains and high rocks as among the woods. When carefully +gathered in the Fall, in dry weather, and as carefully packed in casks +with moist sugar, they will keep for years, and are annually sent to +England in considerable quantities as presents, where they are much +esteemed. When the ships have remained in the Bay so late that the +Cranberries are ripe, some of the Captains have carried them home in +water with great success. + +[Sidenote: Heathberries.] + +The HEATHBERRIES[230] are in some years so plentiful near Churchill, +that it is impossible to walk in many places without treading on +thousands and millions of them. They grow close to the ground, and are a +favourite repast of many birds that migrate to those parts in Summer, +particularly the Grey Goose; on which account the Indians distinguish +them by the name of Nishca-minnick, or the Grey Gooseberry. The juice of +this berry makes an exceeding pleasant beverage, and the fruit itself +would be more pleasing were it not for the number of small seeds it +contains. + +[Sidenote: Bethago-tominick.] + +BETHAGO-TOMINICK,[231] as it is called by the Indians, or the +Dewater-berry of Mr. Dragge. I have seen this berry as far North as +Marble Island, and that in great abundance. It flourishes best, and is +most productive, in swampy boggy ground covered with moss, and is seldom +found {451} among grass. The plant itself is not very unlike that of a +Strawberry, but the leaves are larger. Out of the center of the plant +shoots a single stalk, sometimes to the height of seven or eight inches, +and each plant only produces one berry, which at some distance resembles +a Strawberry; but on examination they have not that conical form; and +many of them are only composed of three or four lobes, while others +consist of nearly twenty. The flavour of this berry is far from +unpleasing, and it is eaten by our people in considerable quantities +during the season, (which is August,) and, like all the other fruits in +those parts, is supposed to be wholesome, and a great antiscorbutic. + +[Sidenote: Currans.] + +CURRANS,[232] both red and black, are common about Churchill River, but +the latter are far more plentiful than the former, and are very large +and fine. The bushes on which those currans grow, frequently exceed +three feet in height, and generally thrive best in those parts that are +moist but not swampy. Small vallies between the rocks, at some little +distance from the woods, are very favourable to them; and I have +frequently observed that the fruit produced in those situations is +larger and finer than that which is found in the woods. Those berries +have a very great effect on some people if eaten in any considerable +quantities, by acting as a very powerful purgative, and in some as an +emetic at the same {452} time; but if mixed with Cranberries, they never +have that effect. + +[Sidenote: Juniper-berries.] + +JUNIPER-BERRIES[233] are frequently found near the new settlement at +Churchill River, but by no means in such plenty as in the more Southern +and interior parts of the country. The bush they grew on is so similar +to the creeping pine, that one half of the Company's servants residing +in Hudson's Bay do not know one from the other. Like the Gooseberry +bushes in those parts, the fruit is always most plentiful on the under +side of the branches. They are not much esteemed either by the Indians +or English, so that the few that are made use of are generally infused +in brandy, by way of making a cordial, which is far from unpleasant.[CP] + +[Sidenote: Strawberries.] + +STRAWBERRIES,[CQ][234] and those of a considerable size and excellent +flavour, are found as far North as Churchill River; and what is most +remarkable, they are frequently known to be more plentiful in such +places as have formerly been set on fire. This is not peculiar to the +Strawberry, but it is well known that in the interior parts of the +country, as well as at Albany and Moose Forts, that after {453} the +ground, or more properly the under-wood and moss, have been set on fire, +that Raspberry-bushes and Hips have shot up in great numbers on spots +where nothing of the kind had ever been seen before. This is a +phaenomenon that is not easily accounted for; but it is more than +probable that Nature wanted some assistance, and the moss being all +burnt away, not only admits the sun to act with more power, but the heat +of the fire must, in some measure, loosen the texture of the soil, so as +to admit the plants to shoot up, after having been deep-rooted for many +years without being able to force their way to the surface. + +Besides the Berries already mentioned, there are three others found as +far North as Churchill; namely, what the Indians call the Eye-berry, and +the other two are termed Blue-berry and Partridge-berry by the English. + +[Sidenote: Eye-berry.] + +The EYE-BERRY[235] grows much in the same manner as the Strawberry, and +though smaller, is infinitely superior in flavour. This berry is found +in various situations; but near Churchill River they are most plentiful +in small hollows among the rocks, which are situated some distance from +the woods; but they are never known to grow in swampy ground, and I +never saw them so plentiful in any part of Hudson's Bay as about +Churchill River. + +[Sidenote: Blue-berry.] + +{454} The BLUE-BERRY[236] is about the size of a Hurtle-berry, and grows +on bushes which rise to eighteen inches or two feet, but in general are +much lower. They are seldom ripe till September, at which time the +leaves turn to a beautiful red; and the fruit, though small, have as +fine a bloom as any plum, and are much esteemed for the pleasantness of +their flavour. + +[Sidenote: Partridge-berry.] + +The PARTRIDGE-BERRY[237] is nearly as large as the Cranberry imported +from Newfoundland, and though of a beautiful transparent red, yet has a +disagreeable taste. These berries are seldom taken, either by the +Indians or English; and many of the latter call them Poison-berries, but +several birds are fond of them. They grow close to the ground, like the +Cranberry, and the plant that produces them is not very unlike small +sage, either in shape or colour, but has none of its virtues. + +I had nearly forgotten another species of Berry,[238] which is found on +the dry ridges at Churchill in considerable numbers. In size and colour +they much resemble the Red Curran, and grow on bushes so much like the +Creeping Willow, that people of little observation scarcely know the +difference; particularly as all the fruit is on the under-side of the +branches, and entirely hid by the leaves. I never knew this Berry eaten +but by a frolicksome Indian girl; and as it had no ill effect, it is a +proof it is {455} not unwholesome, though exceedingly unpleasant to the +palate, and not much less so to the smell. + +[Sidenote: Hips.] + +HIPS[239] of a small size, though but few in number, are also found on +the banks of Churchill River, at some distance from the sea. But in the +interior parts of the country they are frequently found in such vast +quantities, that at a distance they make the spots they grow on appear +perfectly red. In the interior parts of Hudson's Bay they are as large +as any I ever remember to have seen, and when ripe, have a most +delightful bloom; but at that season there is scarcely one in ten which +has not a worm in it; and they frequently act as a strong purgative. + +With respect to the smaller productions of the vegetable world, I am +obliged to be in a great measure silent, as the nature of my various +occupations during my residence in this country gave me little leisure, +and being unacquainted with botany, I viewed with inattention things +that were not of immediate use: the few which follow are all that +particularly engaged my attention. + +[Sidenote: Wish-a-ca-pucca.] + +The WISH-A-CA-PUCCA,[240] which grows in most parts of this country, is +said by some Authors to have great medical virtues, applied, either +inwardly as an alterative, or outwardly dried and pulverised, to old +sores and gangrenes. The truth of this I much doubt, and could {456} +never think it had the least medical quality. It is, however, much used +by the lower class of the Company's servants as tea; and by some is +thought very pleasant. But the flower is by far the most delicate, and +if gathered at a proper time, and carefully dried in the shade, will +retain its flavour for many years, and make a far more pleasant beverage +than the leaves. There are several species of this plant, of which some +of the leaves are nearly as large as that of the Creeping Willow, while +others are as small and narrow as that of the Rosemary, and much +resembles it in colour; but all the species have the same smell and +flavour. + +[Sidenote: Jackashey-puck.] + +JACKASHEY-PUCK.[241] This herb much resembles Creeping Box; and is only +used, either by the Indians or English, to mix with tobacco, which makes +it smoke mild and pleasant; and would, I am persuaded, be very +acceptable to many smokers in England. + +[Sidenote: Moss.] + +MOSS of various sorts and colours is plentiful enough in most parts of +this country, and is what the deer usually feed on. + +[Sidenote: Grass.] + +GRASS of several kinds is also found in those parts, and some of it +amazingly rapid of growth, particularly that which is there called +Rye-grass, and which, in our short Summer at Churchill, frequently grows +to the height {457} of three feet. Another species of Grass, which is +produced in marshes, and on the margins of lakes, ponds, and rivers, is +particularly adapted for the support of the multitudes of the feathered +creation which resort to those parts in Summer. The Marsh Grass at +Churchill is of that peculiar nature, that where it is mowed one year, +no crop can be procured the next Summer; whereas at York Fort, though +the climate is not very different, they can get two crops, or harvests, +from the same spot in one Summer. Vetches are plentiful in some parts as +far North as Churchill River; and Burrage, Sorrel, and Coltsfoot, may be +ranked among the useful plants. Dandelion is also plentiful at +Churchill, and makes an early salad, long before any thing can be +produced in the gardens. + +In fact, notwithstanding the length of the Winter, the severity of the +cold, and the great scarcity of vegetables at this Northern settlement, +by proper attention to cleanliness, and keeping the people at reasonable +exercise, I never had one man under me who had the least symptoms of the +scurvy; whereas at York Fort, Albany, and Moose River, there were almost +annual complaints that one half of the people were rendered incapable of +duty by that dreadful disorder. + +I do not wish to lay claim to any merit on this occasion, but I cannot +help observing that, during ten years I had {458} the command at +Churchill River, only two men died of that distemper, though my +complement at times amounted in number to fifty-three. + +[Sidenote: Trees.] + +The Forest Trees that grow on this inhospitable spot are very few +indeed; Pine,[242] Juniper,[243] small scraggy Poplar,[244] Creeping +Birch,[245] and Dwarf Willows,[246] compose the whole catalogue. Farther +Westward the Birch Tree[247] is very plentiful; and in the Athapuscow +country, the Pines, Larch, Poplar, and Birch, grow to a great size; the +Alder[248] is also found there. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[124] The notes to this chapter within brackets are by Mr. Edward A. +Preble of the United States Biological Survey. + +[125] See pages 255, 164, 235, and 254. + +[126] This is the so-called elk or wapiti, _Cervus canadensis_ Erx., +formerly abundant from the west side of Lake Winnipeg north-westward to +the Peace River region. + +[127] The wolves of the wooded country belong to the species to which +the name _Canis occidentalis_ of Richardson seems applicable; those of +the Barren Grounds, which are frequently white, may be considered as +subspecifically separable under the name _Canis o. albus_ Sabine (type +locality, Fort Enterprise, North-West Territory). + +[128] _Vulpes lagopus innuitus_ Merriam. This name is applicable to the +Arctic foxes of the American mainland. They are larger than and differ +in cranial characters from the typical animal of Lapland. + +[129] See Pennant, "Arct. Zool.," i. p. 43, 1784, where this statement +is credited to Mr. Graham. While Hearne is probably right about the +foxes appearing every season, yet at intervals of a few years there is +an incursion of more than ordinary numbers, and on these occasions the +species reaches farther south than usual. + +[130] The Canada Lynx, _Lynx canadensis_ Kerr, is of general +distribution throughout the wooded country, and occasionally in summer +extends its wanderings for a short distance into the Barren Grounds. + +[131] _Thalarctos maritimus_ (Phipps). This species, of circumpolar +distribution, keeps closely to the sea-coasts, and reaches the southern +extremity of Hudson Bay, probably the most southern point of its present +distribution. + +[BY] It is rather singular that the Polar Bears are seldom found on the +land during the Winter, on which account it is supposed they go out on +the ice, and keep near the edge of the water during that season, while +the females that are pregnant seek shelter at the skirts of the woods, +and dig themselves dens in the deepest drifts of snow they can find, +where they remain in a state of inactivity, and without food, from the +latter end of December or January, till the latter end of March; at +which time they leave their dens, and bend their course towards the sea +with their cubs; which, in general, are two in number. Notwithstanding +the great magnitude of those animals when full grown, yet their young +are not larger than rabbits, and when they leave their dens, in March, I +have frequently seen them not larger than a white fox, and their steps +on the snow not bigger than a crown-piece, when those of their dam +measure near fifteen inches long and nine inches broad. They propagate +when young, or at least before they are half-grown; for I have killed +young females not larger than a London calf, with milk in their teats; +whereas some of the full grown ones are heavier than the largest of our +common oxen. Indeed I was once at the killing of one, when one of its +hind feet being cut off at the ankle, weighed fifty-four pounds. The +males have a bone in their _penis_, as a dog has, and of course unite in +copulation; but the time of their courtship is, I believe, not exactly +known: probably it may be in July or August, for at those times I have +often been at the killing of them, when the males were so attached to +their mistresses, that after the female was killed, the male would put +his two fore-paws over, and suffer himself to be shot before he would +quit her. I have frequently seen and killed those animals near twelve +leagues from the land; but as the Fall of the year advances, they are +taught by instinct to seek the shore. Though such a tremendous animal, +they are very shy of coming near a man; but when closely pursued in the +water, they frequently attack the boat, seize the oars, and wrest them +from the hands of the strongest man, seeming desirous to get on board; +but the people on those occasions are always provided with fire-arms and +hatchets, to prevent such an unwelcome visit. The flesh of this animal, +when killed in Winter, (if not too old,) is far from being unpleasant +eating; and the young cubs, in the Spring, are rather delicate than +otherwise. The teats of the female are only two in number, and are +placed between the fore-legs. The best Drawing of this Animal I have +seen, is that done by Mr. Webber, among the Plates of Cook's last +Voyage. + +[132] _Ursus americanus_ Pallas. This species inhabits all the region +west of Hudson Bay nearly or quite to the limit of trees, though it is +rare near the border of the woods. + +[BZ] The insects here spoken of are of two kinds; the one is nearly +black, its skin hard like a beetle, and not very unlike a grasshopper, +and darts through the water with great ease, and with some degree of +velocity. The other sort is brown, has wings, and is as soft as the +common cleg-fly. The latter are the most numerous; and in some of the +lakes such quantities of them are forced into the bays in gales of wind, +and there pressed together in such multitudes, that they are killed, and +remain there a great nuisance; for I have several times, in my inland +voyages from York Fort, found it scarcely possible to land in some of +those bays for the intolerable stench of those insects, which in some +places were lying in putrid masses to the depth of two or three feet. It +is more than probable, that the Bears occasionally feed on these dead +insects. + +[133] The insects here referred to are mainly May-flies (Ephemeridae), +which are washed up along the shores of the lakes in this region in +incredible quantities, and are eaten by the bears, as Hearne says. + +[CA] It is common for the Southern Indians to tame and domesticate the +young cubs; and they are frequently taken so young that they cannot eat. +On those occasions the Indians oblige their wives who have milk in their +breasts to suckle them. And one of the Company's servants, whose name is +Isaac Batt, willing to be as great a brute as his Indian companions, +absolutely forced one of his wives, who had recently lost her infant, to +suckle a young Bear. + +[134] By brown bears, Hearne probably refers to the brown or cinnamon +phase of the black bear. This colour phase, which is often spoken of as +if constituting a distinct species, is rare near the northern border of +the range of the animal. + +[135] _Ursus richardsoni_ Swainson. See _ante_, p. 181. + +[136] _Gulo luscus_ (Linn.). This powerful freebooter ranges north to +the extremity of the continent, and has been detected in a few instances +on the islands of the Arctic Sea. + +[CB] Mr. Graham says they take their lodging in the clefts of rocks, or +in hollow trees. The former I acknowledge, but I believe that neither +Mr. Graham nor any of the Company's servants ever saw an instance of the +latter. In fact, during all my travels in the interior parts of Hudson's +Bay, I never saw a hollow tree that was capable of affording shelter to +any larger animal than martins, jackashes, or wejacks; much less the +quiquehatch or Bear, as some have asserted. + +[This statement is from Pennant, "Arct. Zool.," i. p. 68, 1784, and +given on the authority of Mr. Graham.] + +[137] _Lutra canadensis_ (Schreber). This valuable fur-bearer is found +throughout the wooded country, but is rare near the borders of the +forest. + +[CC] The Otter is very fond of play; and one of their favourite pastimes +is, to get on a high ridge of snow, bend their fore-feet backward, and +slide down the side of it, sometimes to the distance of twenty yards. + +[138] _Lutreola vison lacustris_ (Preble, North Am. Fauna, No. 22, p. +66, 1902). This race differs from the typical race of Eastern Canada in +its larger size and some minor cranial characters. It inhabits the +region west of Hudson Bay, north to the limit of trees. + +[139] _Mustela pennanti_ Erxleben. As far as known, this fur-bearer +reaches its northern limit on the coast of Hudson Bay near Cape Tatnam. + +[CD] Mr. Graham asserts that this animal frequents the banks of creeks, +and feeds on fish; but these are by no means their usual haunts. I have, +however, no doubt, but when they find fish on the land, that they may +eat it, like other carnivorous animals; but they are as shy of taking +the water as a domestic cat. They climb trees, and catch partridges, +mice, and rabbits, with as much ease as a martin. They are easily tamed +and domesticated, are very fond of tea-leaves, have a pleasant musky +smell, and are very playful. + +[This statement is apparently from Pennant ("Arct. Zool.," i. p. 82, +1784), who gives Mr. Graham as authority.] + +[140] The Skunk, _Mephitis mephitis_ (Schreber), has not been detected +on the coast of Hudson Bay north of Fort Albany, but farther westward it +reaches Oxford House and Great Slave Lake. The animal of the Cumberland +House region is the Northern Plains Skunk, _Mephitis hudsonica_ +Richardson. + +[141] _Mustela americana abieticola_ Preble. A much larger race than +typical _M. americana_ of Eastern Canada is the form inhabiting the +country west of Hudson Bay. + +[142] The common weasel of the wooded parts of the Hudson Bay region is +_Putorius richardsoni_ (Bonaparte). North of the tree-limit is found a +larger species, _P. arcticus_ Merriam, which ranges north of the +continent over the Arctic islands. Both species turn white in winter and +are then known as ermine. + +[143] _Fiber zibethicus hudsonius_ Preble (North Am. Fauna, No. 22, p. +53, 1902; type locality, Fort Churchill). This race, which differs from +the typical animal of Eastern Canada in smaller size and in cranial +characters, inhabits the region west of Hudson Bay, north to the limit +of trees. + +[144] _Acorus calamus_ Linn. A widely diffused herb abundant in the +southern part of the Hudson Bay region. The Crees are said to style it +_Wachusk mitsu-in_, i.e. that which the musk-rats eat. + +[145] _Erethizon dorsatum_ (Linn.). In Hearne's time the porcupine was +rather common throughout the southern part of the Hudson Bay region, and +ranged nearly or quite to the limit of trees. Hearne's journey to the +Coppermine River was mainly through the Barren Grounds, or near the edge +of the timber, where of course the animal was scarce, which accounts for +the small number seen by him. + +Now, throughout the region, constant persecution has reduced this +species almost to the verge of extinction, so that a person may travel +hundreds of miles through its range without encountering one. + +[146] "Arctic Zool.," i. p. 110, 1784. + +[CE] This information was given to Mr. Pennant from the authority of Mr. +Graham; but the before-mentioned account of seeing them killed in all +stages of pregnancy, when no symptoms of that kind appeared, will, I +hope, be sufficient to clear up that mistake. + +[147] By foxes of various colours, Hearne refers to the different +colour-phases of the red fox, _Vulpes fulvus_ (Desmarest). These are the +cross-fox, in which there is a darkening of the colour, and a more or +less plainly marked cross indicated on the back; the silver, in which +the red tinge is nearly or wholly lost, the general colour being black, +with many of the hairs showing a white subterminal zone; and the black, +in which the white is absent, or very nearly so. In all these phases, +now generally admitted to be varying degrees of melanism, the tip of the +tail is white, as in the normal red phase. A perfect black fox is one of +the most valuable furs known. + +[148] _Lepus arcticus canus_ Preble. Arctic hares are still found +regularly as far south as Fort Churchill, and in winter reach still +farther south, while to the north-west they occupy suitable localities +throughout the Barren Grounds. + +[149] _Lepus americanus_ (Erxleben), based mainly on specimens from +Churchill River and Severn River, which last place may be considered the +type locality. + +[150] _Sciurus hudsonicus_ Erxleben. Common throughout the Hudson Bay +region north to the tree-limit. The name was based on specimens from +Hudson Bay, probably from the west coast, although no definite type +locality has been assigned. + +[151] _Citellus parryi_ (Richardson). This species at the time of +Hearne's writing was undescribed, but was later characterised by +Richardson (App. to Parry's Second Voyage, p. 316, 1827), from specimens +taken at Five Hawser Bay, Melville Peninsula. It inhabits the Barren +Grounds from Hudson Bay north-westward to the Mackenzie, and is +represented by related and intergrading forms nearly throughout Alaska, +and southward in the Rocky Mountains to the northern United States. + +[152] The shrew most often found in the beaver houses is the marsh +shrew, _Neosorex palustris_ (Rich.), whose aquatic habits admirably fit +it for such situations. Two or three smaller shrews, less aquatic in +habits, also inhabit the Hudson Bay region. + +[153] _Dicrostonyx richardsoni_ Merriam. This lemming, which is closely +related to _D. hudsonius_ of Labrador, was described from specimens +taken at Fort Churchill, where it is abundant. Farther to the north it +is represented by closely related forms whose ranges are among the most +northerly of all land animals. Hearne's excellent account of this +species has been confirmed in almost every particular by later +observers. + +[154] _Odobaenus rosmarus_ (Linn.). This animal was formerly abundant in +Hudson Bay, but is now far from common, and is confined to the northern +and north-eastern parts. + +[155] _Phoca vitulina_ Linn. is one of the commonest seals about the +Bay, while the ringed seal, _Phoca hispida_ Schreber, is perhaps equally +abundant about its northern shores. The grey species mentioned is the +bearded seal, _Erignathus barbatus_ (Erxleben), which is abundant in +most parts of Hudson Bay. + +[156] The narwhal, _Monodon monoceros_ Linn., is still a rare inhabitant +of Hudson Strait and the extreme northern part of the Bay. + +[CF] In the Fall of the year 1768, a fine rock cod was drove on shore in +a high gale of wind, and was eaten at the Governor's table; Messrs. +William Wales and Joseph Dymond, who went out to observe the transit of +Venus which happened on the 3d of June 1769, partook of it; but I never +heard of one being caught with a hook, nor ever saw an entire fish of +that description in those parts: their jaw-bones are, however, +frequently found on the shores. + +[The common cod, _Gadus callarius_ Linn., enters Hudson Strait, and is +economically important in Ungava Bay. An occasional one is reported in +Hudson Bay, but whether or not the fish is abundant there is not known.] + +[157] _Balaena mysticetus_ Linn. This species, the principal object of +pursuit by the northern whalers, was originally fairly common in the +northern part of Hudson Bay, but is now rare there. + +[CG] I have heard that no Whale caught by our Greenland ships is called +a Pay-fish; that is, that no emolument arises to the harpooner that +strikes it; unless the longest blade of the bone, usually called +Whale-bone, measures six feet; whereas those killed in Hudson's Bay +seldom measured more than four feet and an half. + +[158] _Delphinapterus catodon_ (Linn.). This toothed whale is still +common in nearly all parts of Hudson Bay, and considerable numbers are +taken by means of nets at Fort Churchill. The oil is exported and the +meat utilized for food for dogs. + +[159] The "Salmon" here spoken of is evidently some form of the widely +distributed _Salvelinus alpinus_ (Linn.), several supposed forms of +which have been described from different parts of Arctic North America. +The ordinary method of taking it on the coast of Hudson Bay is by +stretching a net between stakes at low tide at right angles to the +shore. The net being immersed at high tide intercepts the fish, which +apparently follow the line of the shore. When the tide falls the catch +is of course easily retrieved. + +[160] _Mallotus villosus_ (Mueller). This is a kind of smelt of wide +distribution in northern waters. + +[161] Apparently referring to _Mytilus edulis_ (Linn.), which is very +abundant on the shore of Hudson Bay. + +[162] _Hyas coarctatus_ Leach, occurs on the west coast of Hudson Bay. +Probably other species inhabit its waters. + +[163] A common starfish on the west coast of Hudson Bay is a six-armed +species, _Asterias polaris_ (Mueller and Troschel). + +[164] The common frog of the Hudson Bay region is the northern wood +frog, _Rana cantabrigensis latiremis_ Cope, which is abundant north to +the tree-limit. A smaller species, _Chorophilus septentrionalis_ +Boulenger, is abundant on the coast as far north at least as York +Factory. + +[165] From Hearne's description of its habits he evidently refers to the +white-headed eagle, _Haliaetus leucocephalus alascanus_ Townsend, which +is the commoner of the two species of that region. The golden eagle, +_Aquila chrysaetos_ (Linn.), is rare near the Bay, but in places in the +interior, where rocky ledges occur, is sometimes rather common. + +[166] The Sacre Falcon of Pennant is generally identified as _Falco +rusticolus gyrfalco_ Linn. + +[167] _Nyctea nyctea_ (Linn.). This beautiful owl is common throughout +the region, breeding on the Barren Grounds, and in winter moving +southward into the wooded country. Occasionally a pair will nest far +south of the normal range. + +[168] The great horned owl, _Bubo virginianus subarcticus_ (Hoy), found +throughout the region north nearly to the limit of trees. + +[169] This is the hawk owl, _Surnia ulula caparoch_ (Mueller). It is +fairly abundant throughout the region north to the limit of trees. + +[170] _Corvus corax principalis_ (Ridgway). The raven is rare on the +coast of Hudson Bay, but is rather common in the interior. + +[171] _Perisoreus canadensis_ (Linn.). Very abundant throughout the +region north to the limit of trees. It nests in late winter, laying +three or four bluish-grey eggs spotted with brownish. + +[172] Besides the "Golden-winged Bird," _Colaptes auratus luteus_ +(Bangs), which reaches the limit of trees, several other woodpeckers +inhabit that region. + +[173] Referring to the pileated woodpecker, _Phloeotomus pileatus +abieticola_ (Bangs), which is found about the southern parts of Hudson +Bay, and inland toward the south-west. + +[174] Hearne is mistaken here, as the golden-winged woodpecker is well +known to leave the northern parts of its summer habitat for several +months. + +[175] _Bonasa umbellus togata_ (Linn.). Found about the southern shores +of Hudson Bay, as far north as about 57 deg., and inland much farther north. + +[176] _Pedioecetes phasianellus_ (Linn.). Hearne's remarks on its range +in this region are well founded, and agree with what is known of its +present distribution. + +[CH] This I assert from my own experience when at Cumberland House. + +[177] _Canachites canadensis_ (Linn.). This grouse inhabits all the +region west of Hudson Bay north nearly to the limit of trees, but is +scarce near the northern border of its range. + +[178] _Lagopus lagopus_ (Linn.) This beautiful ptarmigan is still +abundant on the shores of Hudson Bay. It breeds abundantly throughout +the Barren Grounds and in considerable numbers on the treeless areas +which form an almost continuous fringe along the west coast of the Bay +nearly to its southern extremity. + +[CI] Mr. Dragge observes, in his North West Passage, that when the +partridges begin to change colour, the first brown feathers appear in +the rump; but this is so far from being a general rule, that an +experienced Hudsonian must smile at the idea. That Mr. Dragge never saw +an instance of this kind I will not say, but when Nature deviates so far +from its usual course, it is undoubtedly owing to some accident; and +nothing is more likely than that the feathers of the bird Mr. Dragge had +examined, had been struck off by a hawk; and as the usual season for +changing their plumage was near, the Summer feathers supplied their +place; for out of the many hundreds of thousands that I have seen +killed, I never saw or heard of a similar instance. + +[179] _Lagopus rupestris_ (Gmel.). This species, first described from +specimens sent from Hudson Bay, is more northern in its range than the +willow ptarmigan. + +[CJ] Besides the birds already mentioned, which form a constant dish at +our tables in Hudson's Bay, during their respective seasons, Mr. Jeremie +asserts, that during the time he was Governor at York Fort, the bustard +was common. But since that Fort was delivered up to the English at the +peace of Utrecht in 1713, none of the Company's servants have ever seen +one of those birds: nor does it appear by all the Journals now in the +possession of the Hudson's Bay Company, that any such bird was ever seen +in the most Southern parts of the Bay, much less at York Fort, which is +in the latitude 57 deg. North; so that a capital error, or a wilful design +to mislead, must have taken place. Indeed, his account of the country +immediately where he resided, and the productions of it, are so +erroneously stated as to deserve no notice. His colleague, De le +Potries, asserts the existence of the bustard in those parts, and with +an equal regard to truth. + +[This is explained by the fact that the early French writers referred to +the Canada goose under the name _Outarde_.] + +[180] _Ectopistes migratorius_ (Linn.). This short account of the habits +is evidently founded on Hearne's experience with the species in the +Cumberland House region, where at that time it was doubtless abundant. +The present record for Fort Churchill, as well as other early notices of +its occurrence at York Factory, probably represent the northward +wandering of flocks after the breeding season. + +[181] _Planesticus migratorius_ (Linn.). The American robin is rather +common in the Hudson Bay region north to the tree-limit. At Fort +Churchill, in late July 1900, I saw flocks composed of old birds and +young just from the nests. + +[182] _Pinicola enucleator leucura_ (Mueller). Found throughout the +region north to the limit of trees, but, as Hearne intimates, not +abundant. + +[183] _Plectrophenax nivalis_ (Linn.). This name was based on a Hudson +Bay specimen. The bird is abundant throughout the region in migration, +and breeds from the vicinity of Neville Bay (near lat. 62 deg.), northward. + +[184] _Zonotrichia leucophrys_ (Forster). First described from specimens +taken at Severn River, Hudson Bay. An abundant species throughout the +region north to the limit of trees. + +[185] _Calcarius lapponica_ (Linn.). A common species, as Hearne says. +It breeds from the tree-limit northward. + +[186] Apparently referring to the Redpoll, _Acanthis linaria_ (Linn.), +which is, of course, not closely related to the Lapland longspur. + +[187] Hearne apparently refers to the Shore Lark, _Otocoris alpestris +hoyti_ Bishop, which breeds abundantly on the small barrens along the +west coast of Hudson Bay as well as on the main area of the Barren +Grounds. + +[188] _Penthestes hudsonicus_; first described by Forster from specimens +taken at Severn River, Hudson Bay. It inhabits the region north to the +limit of trees. + +[189] This account of the nesting habits seems to refer to the Barn +Swallow, _Hirundo erythrogastra_ (Bodd). I am not aware that this bird +now nests at Fort Churchill, though it is not unlikely that it did so +formerly. The cliffs in the vicinity would afford ideal natural nesting +sites. + +[190] Here Hearne undoubtedly refers to the Bank Swallow, _Riparia +riparia_ (Linn.), which inhabits the region in myriads. As it nests only +in banks of clay or sand its local abundance is dependent on their +presence. The eggs are unspotted. + +[191] _Grus americana_ (Linn.). Though specimens from Hudson Bay figured +in the original description of this magnificent species, it was rare +even in Hearne's time, and is now probably extirpated in that region. + +[192] The Brown Crane (_Grus canadensis_), was described by Linnaeus from +Hudson Bay specimens, and is still rather common on its marshy plains, +and on the Barren Grounds. + +[193] The American Bittern, _Botaurus lentiginosus_ (Montagu), is fairly +common in the marshes about Hudson Bay north to the vicinity of York +Factory. + +[194] The Esquimaux Curlew of Pennant ("Arct. Zool.," ii. p. 461, 1785) +is really the Hudsonian Curlew, _Numenius hudsonicus_ (Latham), and +Hearne of course follows Pennant in this error. It is still a common +species on the west coast of Hudson Bay. The smaller one, which is the +real Eskimo Curlew, _Numenius borealis_ (Forster), was formerly very +abundant, but is now, unhappily, nearly or quite extinct. + +[195] Apparently the common Snipe, _Gallinago delicata_ (Ord.). + +[196] The Hudsonian Godwit, _Limosa haemastica_ (Linn.). This name was +based on the drawing of a specimen from Hudson Bay. It breeds in the +marshes on the west coast of the Bay, probably nearly throughout its +length. + +[197] The Spotted Godwit of Pennant ("Arct. Zool.," ii. p. 467, 1785) is +the Greater Yellowlegs, _Totanus melanoleucus_ (Gmel.). + +[198] _Arenaria morinella_ (Linn.). The Turnstone is abundant along the +west coast of Hudson Bay in migration, and doubtless breeds about its +northern shores, though I am not aware that its nest has actually been +discovered there. + +[CK] They exactly correspond with the bird described by Mr. Pennant, +except that they are much longer. + +[199] _Charadrius dominicus_ Mueller. Formerly very abundant, as Hearne +intimates, but now very much reduced in numbers. It breeds about the +northern shores of Hudson Bay. + +[200] _Cepphus mandti_ (Mandt). This Guillemot is abundant on Hudson Bay +and the neighbouring waters to the northward. + +[201] _Gavia immer_ (Bruenn.). This is perhaps the least abundant of the +Loons found on Hudson Bay, though common in the lakes of the interior. + +[202] _Gavia adamsi_ (Gray). Hearne's statement that the bird has a +white bill shows that he refers to the present species, though a +Black-throated Loon, _Gavia pacifica_ (Lawrence), is common there. +Perhaps he confuses the two. At any rate, _G. adamsi_ is abundant over +much of the country traversed by him on his Coppermine journey, but I am +not aware that it has been detected as far east as Hudson Bay. + +[203] _Gavia stellata_ (Pontoppidan). Abundant in the lake-studded +country bordering Hudson Bay. + +[204] Though in all probability several species are included under this +heading, the commonest is the widely distributed Herring Gull, _Larus +argentatus_ Pontoppidan. The "Grey Gull" following is undoubtedly the +young of the same species. + +[205] Jaegers, _Stercorarius_, of which perhaps the commonest, and the +one suggested by Hearne's description, is _S. pomarinus_. It is +probable, however, that both _S. parasiticus_ and _S. longicaudus_ (the +former of which is the more abundant) also came under his observation. + +[206] Plainly referring to the Arctic Tern, _Sterna paradisaea_ Bruenn. An +excessively abundant species on the west coast of Hudson Bay. + +[207] _Pelecanus erythrorhynchos_ Gmel., has been taken on Hudson Bay +only as a rare straggler, but is abundant in the Cumberland House +region. + +[CL] In the Fall of 1774, when I first settled at Cumberland House, the +Indians imposed on me and my people very much, by selling us Pelican fat +for the fat of the black bear. Our knowledge of the delicacy of the +latter induced us to reserve this fat for particular purposes; but when +we came to open the bladders, it was little superior to train oil, and +was only eatable by a few of my crew, which at that time consisted only +of eight Englishmen and two of the home Indians from York Fort. + +Cumberland House was the first inland settlement the Company made from +Hudson's Fort; and though begun on so small a scale, yet upon it and +Hudson's House, which is situated beyond it, upwards of seventy men were +now employed. + +[208] _Mergus serrator_ Linn. This species is still very abundant on the +coast of Hudson Bay, as well as in the interior. + +[209] The smaller Swan is _Olor columbianus_ (Ord.), formerly very +abundant on Hudson Bay, and still occurring in some numbers during +migrations. It breeds on the islands in the northern parts of the Bay, +and in other parts of the far North. + +The larger Whooping Swan, _Olor buccinator_ (Richardson), formerly bred +about the southern part of the Hudson Bay region, and also far +northward. In the wholesale destruction of these magnificent birds, this +species has suffered most. + +[CM] Mr. Pennant, in treating of the Whistling Swan, takes notice of the +formation of the Windpipe; but on examination, the windpipes of both the +species which frequent Hudson's Bay are found to be exactly alike, +though their note is quite different. The breast-bone of this bird is +different from any other I have seen; for instead of being sharp and +solid, like that of a goose, it is broad and hollow. Into this cavity +the windpipe passes from the valve, and reaching quite down to the +abdomen, returns into the chest, and joins the lungs. Neither of the +species of Swan that frequent Hudson's Bay are mute: but the note of the +larger is much louder and harsher than that of the smaller. + +[210] _Branta canadensis_ (Linn.). This large goose is the earliest to +arrive in spring, and is the most southern breeder, nesting throughout +the wooded country. + +[211] _Branta canadensis hutchinsi_ (Richardson). This smaller form of +the Canada Goose was named in honour of Thomas Hutchins, a Hudson's Bay +Company officer who made natural history collections on Hudson Bay, and +was the first to call attention to this race. It breeds on the Barren +Grounds. + +[212] _Chen hyperboreus nivalis_ (Forster). This larger form of _C. +hyperboreus_ was first described from Severn River specimens. Though +much reduced in numbers, it still breeds about the northern part of +Hudson Bay, and is an important food species in the region. + +[213] _Chen caerulescens_ (Linn.). First described from a Hudson Bay +specimen. According to the natives it breeds in the interior of northern +Ungava; west of Hudson Bay, it is known only as a straggler. It winters +in the Mississippi valley and on the Atlantic coast. + +[214] This is the first account of _Chen rossi_, formally described by +Cassin in 1861 from specimens taken on Great Slave Lake. It is almost +unknown on Hudson Bay, but is abundant in migrations about Great Slave +and Athabaska lakes. It breeds somewhere to the northward of this +region, but its summer home is unknown. + +[CN] Mr. Moses Norton. + +[215] _Anser albifrons gambeli_ Hartl. An inhabitant of the west coast +of Hudson Bay, but more common in the Mackenzie valley. + +[216] Probably referring, as Hearne suggests, to abnormally large and +perhaps barren individuals of the Canada Goose (_Branta canadensis_). + +[217] _Branta bernicla glaucogastra_ (Brehm). Still occurring in some +numbers along the west coast of Hudson Bay, in migrations, and breeding +about its northern shores. + +[218] Both _Somateria mollissima borealis_ (Brehm), and _S. dresseri_ +Sharpe, occur about the north-west coast of Hudson Bay in summer, and +doubtless both breed there. The King Eider also, _S. spectabilis_ +(Linn.), migrates down the coast, but probably breeds farther to the +north. + +[219] The Bean Goose, _Anser fabalis_ (Latham), is of very doubtful +occurrence in the Hudson Bay region. + +[CO] It is, however, no less true, that the late Mr. Humphry Martin, +many years Governor of Albany Fort, sent home several hundred specimens +of animals and plants to complete that collection; but by some mistake, +nothing of the kind was placed to the credit of his account. Even my +respected friend Mr. Pennant, who with a candour that does him honour, +has so generously acknowledged his obligations to all to whom he thought +he was indebted for information when he was writing his Arctic Zoology, +(see the Advertisement,) has not mentioned his name; but I am fully +persuaded that it entirely proceeded from a want of knowing the person; +and as Mr. Hutchins succeeded him at Albany in the year 1774, every +thing that has been sent over from that part has been placed to his +account. + +[220] _Somateria spectabilis_ (Linn.). + +[221] Probably _Anas rubripes_ Brewster. + +[222] _Anas platyrhynchos_ Linn. + +[223] _Dafila acuta_ (Linn.). + +[224] _Mareca americana_ (Gmel.). + +[225] _Nettion carolinense_ (Gmel.). + +[226] _Mareca americana_ (Gmel.). The American Widgeon occurs on the +west coast of Hudson Bay north to the tree-limit, but is not common +there. + +[227] The Common Teal of the west coast of Hudson Bay is _Nettion +carolinense_ (Gmel.), which occurs in numbers well into the Barren +Grounds. The Blue-winged Teal, _Querquedula discors_ (Linn.), has been +taken there, but is excessively rare. + +[228] _Ribes oxyacanthoides_ Linn. A species of very wide distribution +in the north. It is usually common about the trading posts. + +[229] _Vaccinium vitisidaea_ Linn. An abundant species; reaches its +greatest perfection near the northern border of the forest. + +[230] _Empetrum nigrum_ Linn. The crowberry is very abundant about Fort +Churchill and northward. + +[231] _Rubus chamaemorus_ Linn. The cloudberry or baked-apple berry is +abundant throughout the country treated by Hearne. + +[232] The northern red currant, _Ribes rubrum_ Linn., and the black +currant, _Ribes hudsonianum_ Richardson, are species of wide +distribution in the north. + +[233] Apparently Hearne refers to _Juniperus nana_ Willd., the dwarf +juniper, since Richardson gives the same Indian name as applied by the +Crees to this shrub. Granting this, Hearne's creeping pine is _Juniperus +sabina_ Linn., shrubby red cedar. Both species extend northward to the +tree-limit. + +[CP] The Indians call the Juniper-berry Caw-caw-cue-minick, or the +Crowberry. + +[CQ] The Oteagh-minick of the Indians, is so called, because it in some +measure resembles a heart. + +[234] Probably _Fragaria canadensis_ Michx. + +[235] Probably _Rubus arcticus_ Linn. A pretty little plant, similar in +distribution to the cloudberry. + +[236] _Vaccinium uliginosum_ Linn. A low blueberry of wide distribution. +The fruit is excellent. + +[237] Probably _Comandra Livida_ Rich. + +[238] Evidently, from his description, Hearne here refers to the Alpine +bearberry, _Arctous alpina_ (Linn.). It is abundant throughout the +region. + +[239] Apparently referring to the common rose of the region, _Rosa +acicularis_ Lindl. An abundant and very beautiful species. + +[240] Hearne refers here to the two species of _Ledum. L. groenlandicum_ +OEder is the broad-leaved sort, generally distributed through the +wooded country, and extending a little into the Barren Grounds. _L. +palustre_ Linn. is a smaller narrow-leaved species, which overlaps the +range of the larger sort, and extends much farther north. + +[241] This refers to the common bearberry, _Arctostaphylos uva-ursi_ +(Linn.). Its leaves are smoked both by the Indians and the Eskimo, and +also by the white residents. + +[242] _Picea alba_ (Ait.) and _P. mariana_ (Mill.). + +[243] _Larix laricina_ (Du Roi). + +[244] _Populus balsamifera_ Linn., and _P. tremuloides_ Michx. + +[245] _Betula nana_ Linn. + +[246] A number of dwarf willows, including _Salix anglorum_ Cham., _S. +phylicifolia_ Linn., and _S. reticulata_ Linn., grow on the coast of +Hudson Bay to the northward of Fort Churchill. + +[247] _Betula papyrifera_ Marsh, from whose bark the Indians make their +canoes. + +[248] The common alder of the interior is _Alnus alnobetula_ (Ehrh.). + + + + +BIBLIOGRAPHY + + + ANDERSON, JAMES. Letters from Chief Factor James Anderson to Sir + George Simpson, Governor in chief of Rupert Land. Communicated + by the Hudson's Bay Company. _Jour. Roy. Geog. Soc._, vol. 26 + (1856), pp. 18-25. + + ANDERSON, JAMES. Extracts from Chief Factor James Anderson's + Journal. Communicated by Sir John Richardson. _Jour. Roy. Geog. + Soc._, vol. 27 (1857), pp. 321-328. + + ARROWSMITH, A. Map exhibiting all the new discoveries in the + interior parts of North America, Jan. 1, 1795, with additions to + 1811. + + BACK, CAPTAIN (SIR GEORGE). Narrative of the Arctic Land + Expedition to the mouth of the Great Fish River, &c., in the + years 1833, 1834, and 1835. London, 1836. 8vo. Maps and plates. + X., 663. + + BRYCE, GEORGE. The Remarkable History of the Hudson's Bay + Company. Toronto, 1900. 8vo. XXI., 501. + + BURPEE, LAWRENCE J. The Search for the Western Sea. Toronto, + 1908. 8vo. Maps and illustrations, IX., 651. + + CLUNY, ALEXANDER. The American Traveller; or, Observations on + the Present State, Culture and Commerce of the British Colonies + in America, &c. By an Old and Experienced Trader. London, 1769. + 4to. Map and plate, 122. Another edition. 12mo. New York, 1770. + + DAWSON, GEORGE M. The Larger Unexplored Regions of Canada. _Ott. + Nat._, 1890, pp. 29-40, with map. + + DAWSON, GEORGE M. Notes to accompany a geological map of the + Northern portion of the Dominion of Canada, east of the Rocky + Mountains. _Ann. Rep. Geol. and Nat. Hist. Survey Can._, 1886. + Pt. R. Montreal, 1887. 8vo, Map, 62. + + DOBBS, ARTHUR. An Account of the Countries adjoining to Hudson's + Bay, in the North-West Part of America. London, 1744. 4to. Map. + II., 211. + + DOUGLAS, DR. JOHN (Bishop of Salisbury). Introduction to "A + Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, &c., performed under the direction + of Captains Cook, Clerke and Gore." (Cook's 3rd Voyage.) 3 vols. + and Atlas. London, 1784. 4to. Introduction, xcvi. + + DRAGGE, T. S. An Account of a Voyage for the Discovery of a + North-West Passage by Hudson's Streights to the Western and + Southern Ocean of America. Performed in the year 1746 and 1747, + in the ship _California_, Capt. _Francis Smith_, Commander. _By + the_ CLERK _of the_ CALIFORNIA (T. S. Dragge). London, 1748-9. 2 + vols. 12mo. Charts and plates, VII., 237 and 326, with Index. + + DYMOND, JOSEPH, AND WALES, WILLIAM. Observations on the state of + the Air, Winds, Weather, &c., made at Prince of Wales Fort, on + the North-West Coast of Hudson's Bay, in the years 1768 and + 1769. _Phil. Trans._, vol. lx. for the year 1770. London, 1771. + pp. 137-178. + + ELLIS, HENRY. A Voyage to Hudson's Bay. By the _Dobbs Galley_ + and _California_, in the years 1746 and 1747. London, 1748. 8vo. + XXVIII., 336. + + FORSTER, J. R. Account of several quadrupeds sent from Hudson's + Bay. _Phil. Trans._ (London), vol. lxii. 1772. pp. 370-381. + + FORSTER, J. R. An account of the Birds sent from Hudson's Bay; + with Observations relative to their Natural History, and Latin + descriptions of some of the most uncommon. _Phil. Trans._ + (London), vol. lxii. 1772. pp. 382-433. + + FRANKLIN, SIR JOHN. Narrative of a Journey to the shores of The + Polar Sea in the years 1819, 20, 21 and 22, with Appendix. + London, 1823. 4to. Maps and plates. XV., 783. Another edition. 2 + vols. 8vo, without Appendix. London, 1824. XIX., 370 and IV. + 397. + + FRANKLIN, SIR JOHN. Narrative of a Second Expedition to the + shores of The Polar Sea, in the years 1825, 1826 and 1827, with + Appendix. London, 1728. 4to. Maps and plates. XXIV., 319, clvii. + + HANBURY, D. T. A Journey from Chesterfield Inlet to Great Slave + Lake, 1898-9. _Geog. Jour._, vol. xvi. pp. 63-77. London, 1900. + + + HANBURY, D. T. Through the Barren Ground of North-Eastern Canada + to the Arctic Coast. _Geog. Jour._, vol. xxi. pp. 178-191. + London, 1903. + + HANBURY, DAVID T. Sport and Travel in the Northland of Canada. + New York, 1904. 8vo. Maps and plates. XXXII., 319. + + HEARNE, SAMUEL. A Journey from Prince of Wales's Fort in + Hudson's Bay, to the Northern Ocean. London, 1795. 4to. Maps and + plates. XLIV., 458. Another edition. Dublin, 1796. 8vo. A French + translation was published in Paris in 1799 in 1 vol. 4to and 2 + vols. 12mo. + + HEARNE, SAMUEL. Obituary. (Anon.) _European Magazine and London + Review_, June 1797. 2 plates. pp. 371-2. + + ISBISTER, A. K. On the Geology of the Hudson's Bay Territories, + and of portions of the Arctic and North-Western Regions of + America. _Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._ (London), May 1855, vol. xi. + pp. 497-520. + + JEREMIE, M. Relation du Detroit et de la baye d'Hudson. In + Bernard's _Recueil de Voiages au Nord_. 12mo. Amsterdam, 1724. + + JONES, C. J. (COLONEL "BUFFALO" JONES). Buffalo Jones' Forty + Years of Adventure, compiled by Colonel Henry Inman. Topeka, + 1899. 8vo. XII., 469. + + KING, RICHARD. Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the + Arctic Ocean, in 1833, 1834 and 1835; under the Command of Capt. + Back, R.N. London, 1836. 2 vols. 12mo. Map and plates. XV., 312 + and VIII., 321. + + KING, RICHARD. Temperature of Quadrupeds, Birds, Fishes, Plants, + Trees, and Earth, as ascertained at different times and places + in Arctic America during Captain Back's Expedition. _Edinb. New + Philos. Journal_, xxi. pp. 150, 151. 1836. + + KIRBY, WILLIAM. Fauna Boreali--Americana. Part Fourth. The + Insects, pp. xxxix., 325. 4to. London, 1837. + + LA PEROUSE, COMTE DE. Expedition de la Baie d'Hudson. Extrait du + Journal de Pierre-Bruno-Jean de la Mouneraye. _Bull. de la + Societe de Geographie._ 7th Ser. T. G. 1888. + + LA PEROUSE. A Voyage around the World performed in the Years + 1785, 1786, 1787 and 1788. London, 1799. 4to. 2 vols, and Atlas. + Translated from the French. (French edition published in 1797.) + + LAUT, AGNES. Pathfinders of the West. Toronto, 1904. 8vo. XVII., + 380. + + LAUT, AGNES. Conquest of the Great North-West. New York, 1908. + 8vo. 2 vols. XXI., 409 and IX., 415. + + LOFTHOUSE, J. A Trip on the Tha-anne River, Hudson Bay. _The + Geographical Journal_, vol. xiii. pp. 274-277. March 1899. + + LOW, A. P. Cruise of the _Neptune_. Report on the Dominion + Government Expedition to Hudson Bay and the Arctic Islands, on + board the D.G.S. _Neptune_, 1903-1904. Ottawa, 1906. Maps and + plates. XVII., 355. + + MACFARLANE, R. R. Land and Sea Birds nesting within the Arctic + Circle in the Lower Mackenzie District. _Hist. and Sci. Soc. + Man. Trans._ 39. Winnipeg, 1890. + + MACFARLANE, R. Notes on Mammals collected and observed in the + Northern Mackenzie River District, North-West Territories of + Canada, &c. _Proc. U.S. Nat. Mus._, vol. xxviii. pp. 673-764. + June 1905. + + MACKENZIE, ALEXANDER. Voyages from Montreal, on the River St. + Lawrence, through the Continent of North America, to the Frozen + and Pacific Oceans; in the years 1789 and 1793. London, 1801. + 4to. Maps and plates. VIII., cxxxii., 412. + + M'KINLAY, JAMES. Narrative of a Journey in 1890, from Great + Slave Lake to Beechy Lake, on the Great Fish River. (Edited by + D. B. Dowling.) _Ott. Nat._, 1893, pp. 85-92, and 101-114. + + PELLETIER, E. A. Patrol Report Inspector E. A. Pelletier, Fort + Saskatchewan, Alberta, to Chesterfield Inlet and Fullerton, + Hudson Bay, and return to Regina, _via_ Churchill, Hudson Bay. + _Report of the R.N.W. Mounted Police_, 1909. pp. 141-168. App. + O. Ottawa, 1909. + + _Pennant, Thomas._ Vol. i., Quadrupeds. Advertisements, 6 pp.; + Introduction, pp. cc. List of Quadrupeds, p. 185. London, 1784. + Vol. ii., Birds, pp. 187-586. London, 1785. + + PENNANT, THOMAS. Supplement to the Arctic Zoology. London, 1787. + 4to. Maps. VIII., 163. + + PETITOT, L'ABBE E. Geographie de L'Athabaskaw-Mackenzie. 2 Maps. + _Bulletin de la Societe de Geographie_, July, August and + September 1875, pp. 5-42, 126-183, 242-290. + + PIKE, WARBURTON. The Barren Ground of Northern Canada. 8vo. pp. + 300. London and New York, 1892. + + POND, PETER. Map in Burpee's "Search for the Western Sea," p. + 182. + + PREBLE, EDWARD A. A biological Investigation of the Hudson Bay + Region. North American Fauna, No. 22. Washington, 1902. U.S. + Dept. of Agriculture, Divn. of Biological Survey. 8vo. Map and + plates, 140. + + PREBLE, EDWARD A. A biological Investigation of the + Athabaska-Mackenzie Region. North American Fauna, No. 27. + Washington, 1908. U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Divn. of Biological + Survey. 8vo. Maps and plates, 574. + + RAE, JOHN. Journey from Great Bear Lake to Wollaston Land. + _Jour. Roy. Geog. Soc._, vol. 22 (1852), pp. 73-96. + + Report from the Committee appointed to inquire into the state + and condition of the Countries adjoining to Hudson's Bay, and of + the Trade carried on there. London, Government, 1749. Fol. pp. + 215-286. + + Report from the Select Committee on the Hudson's Bay Company. + London, Government, 1857. Fol. Maps. XVIII., 547. + + RICHARDSON, JOHN. Appendix to Captain Parry's Journal of a + Second Voyage. 4to. London, 1825. (Contains many notes on + Natural History of Coppermine region.) + + RICHARDSON, JOHN. Short characters of a few Quadrupeds procured + on Captain Franklin's late Expedition. _The Zool. Journal_, iii. + No. 12. pp. 516-520. 1828. + + RICHARDSON, JOHN. Fauna Boreali--Americana. Part First. + Quadrupeds. pp. xlii, 300. 4to. London, 1829. + + RICHARDSON, JOHN. Fauna Boreali--Americana. Part Third. The + Fishes. 4to. London, 1836. + + RICHARDSON, SIR JOHN. Arctic Searching Expedition; A Journey of + a Boat-Voyage through Rupert's Land and the Arctic Sea. London, + 1851. 8vo. 2 vols. Map, plates and woodcuts. VIII., 413 and + VII., 426. Another edition. New York, 1854. 1 vol. 8vo, without + plates. XI., 516. + + RICHARDSON, SIR JOHN. The Polar Regions. Edinburgh, 1861. 8vo. + Map. IX., 400. + + ROBSON, JOSEPH. An Account of Six years Residence in Hudson's + Bay from 1733 to 1736, and 1744 to 1747. London, 1752. 12mo. + Charts and plans. 84-95. + + RUSSELL, FRANK. Explorations in the Far North, being the Report + of an expedition under the auspices of the University of Iowa + during the years 1892, '93 and '94. (Des Moines), 1898. 8vo. Map + and plates, IX., 290. + + SETON, ERNEST THOMPSON. The Arctic Prairies. _Scribner's + Magazine_, vol. xlviii., Nov. 1910, pp. 513-532; Dec. 1910, pp. + 725-734; vol. xlix., Jan. 1911, pp. 61-72; Feb. 1911, pp. + 207-223. + + SIMPSON, THOMAS. Narrative of the Discoveries on the North Coast + of America; effected by the Officers of the Hudson's Bay Company + during the years 1836-39. London, 1843. 8vo. Map. XIX., 419. + + SWAINSON, WILLIAM, and RICHARDSON, JOHN. Fauna + Boreali--Americana. Part Second. The Birds. pp. lxvi, 524. 4to. + London, 1831. + + TYRRELL, J. B. Explorations in 1893 and 1894. _Ann. Rep. Geol. + Sur. Can._, 1894, vol. vii., Part A., pp. 38-48. + + TYRRELL, J. B. Notes on the Pleistocene of the North-West + Territories of Canada, north-west and west of Hudson's Bay. + _Geol. Mag._ (London), Sept. 1894, pp. 394-399. + + TYRRELL, J. B. An Expedition through the Barren Lands of + Northern Canada. _Geog. Jour._ (London), vol. iv., Nov. 1894, + pp. 437-450, and map. + + TYRRELL, J. B. The Barren Lands. _The Ott. Nat._, vol. x., Feb. + 1897, pp. 203-207. + + TYRRELL, J. B. A second Expedition through the Barren Lands of + Northern Canada. _Geog. Jour._ (London), vol. vi., Nov. 1895, + pp. 438-448, and map. + + TYRRELL, J. B. Report on the Doobaunt, Kazan and Ferguson + Rivers, and the North-West Coast of Hudson Bay, and on two + overland routes from Hudson Bay to Lake Winnipeg. _Ann. Rep. + Geol. Sur. Can._, vol. ix., 1895, Pt. F. Ottawa, 1897. 8vo. Maps + and plates, 218. + + TYRRELL, J. B. The Glaciation of North-Central Canada. _Journal + of Geology_, Feb. 1898, pp. 147-160. + + TYRRELL, J. B. Natural Resources of the Barren Lands of Canada. + _Scot. Geog. Mag._, Mch. 1899, pp. 126-138. + + TYRRELL, J. B. Minerals and Ores of Northern Canada. _Jour. Can. + Min. Inst._, vol. xi., 1908, pp. 348-365. + + TYRRELL, J. W. Across the Sub-Arctics of Canada. A Journey of + 3200 miles by canoe and snowshoe through the Barren Lands. + Toronto, 1897. 8vo. Map and illustrations, 280. + + TYRRELL, J. W. Report on an Exploratory Survey between Great + Slave Lake and Hudson Bay. Ottawa, 1901. Annual Report, Dept. of + Interior (Canada), App. 26, Part III. 23 maps and plates, 60. + + UMFREVILLE, EDWARD. The Present State of Hudson's Bay, + containing a full description of that settlement, and the + adjacent country; and likewise of the Fur Trade. London, 1790. + 12mo. VII., 230. + + WALES, WILLIAM. Journal of a voyage made by order of the Royal + Society, to Churchill River, on the North-West coast of Hudson's + Bay; of Thirteen months residence in that country; and of the + voyage back to England; in the years 1768 and 1769. _Phil. + Trans._, vol. ix., for the year 1770. London, 1771, pp. 100-136. + + WHITNEY, CASPAR. On Snow-shoes to the Barren Grounds. New York, + 1896. 8vo. Maps and illustrations. X., 324. + + WILLSON, BECKLES. The Great Company. London, 1899. 8vo. Maps and + plates. XXII., 541. + + * * * * * + +_For fuller bibliographies of Explorations in Hudson Bay and the +North-West Territories of Canada, see Low's "Cruise of the_ +Neptune," _and Burpee's "Search for the Western Sea."_ + + + + +INDEX + + + Aberdeen Lake, 91 + + "Account of the Countries adjoining to Hudson's Bay, An," by + Arthur Dobbs, 42, 246, 293 + + "Account of a Voyage for the Discovery of a North-West Passage + Performed in the Years 1746 and 1747, An," by T. S. Dragge, 42, 166 + + Acres, ----, 137 + + Alarm Bird, 193 + + Albany Fort, 8, 44, 351, 393, 403, 404, 408, 413, 417 + + _Albany_ Frigate, 44, 45 + + Albany River, 5 + + Alder, 417 + + Alpine bearberry, 414 + + America, 55, 396 + ---- North, 1, 23, 358 + ---- North-Western, 7 + + American Traveller (A. Cluny), 42, 43, 56, 295 + + Anaw'd Whoie (Lake of the Enemy), 226, 227, 233, 234 + + Anderson River, 254 + + Angikuni Lake (Titmeg Lake), 105 + + "Annual Report, Department of the Interior, Canada," 1901, App. 26, + Pt. 3, by J. W. Tyrrell, 272 + + Arctic Circle, 30, 165, 192 + ---- Islands, 352 + ---- North America, 366 + ---- Ocean, 4, 151, 172, 201, 346 + + Artillery Lake (Atachothua = + Caribou-crossing-in-the-middle-of-the-lake Lake), 23, 137, 139, + 140, 225 + + Assiniboine River, 12 + + Athabasca Lake (Arabasca Lake), 119, 200, 201, 234, 235, 270, 278, + 279, 404 + ---- River, 200, 201, 235 + + Athapuscow Country, 200, 256, 261, 276, 332, 333, 417 + ---- Indians. _See under_ Indian + ---- Lake (Arathapescow Lake, Great Slave Lake, or Slave Lake), 133, + 234, 253, 255, 262, 269, 270, 277 + + Athapuscow River, 267, 269 + + Atkinson (Mr.), 391 + + Aurora Borealis (Ed-thin), 235, 327 + + Aylmer Lake (Chlueatathua = Caribou-swimming-among-the-ice Lake), + 151, 225 + + + Back, Sir George, 139, 140, 186, 419 + + Baker's Lake, 41, 55, 273 + + Barble, 88, 114, 254, 274, 314 + + Barlow, Captain George, 8, 9, 44-47 + + Barren Grounds, 137, 193, 338, 341, 354, 355, 358, 371, 378, 387, + 389, 402, 409, 415 + + Barton (Mr.), 376 + + Basquiau, 337, 338, 403, 405 + + Batt, Isaac, 346 + + Bean, John, 41, 46, 321 + + Bear, 169, 192, 343-345, 347, 348, 350 + ---- Black, 113, 343, 344, 398. _See also_ Bear + ---- Brown, 346. _See also_ Bear + ---- Grizzled, 168. _See also_ Bear + ---- Polar (White), 342, 343. _See also_ Bear + + Beaver, 67, 78, 136, 223, 235, 237-251, 253, 255, 270, 271, 276, + 305, 307, 308, 342, 348, 353, 355, 359, 369 + + Bedodid Lake, 278 + + Beralzone (Beralzoa, Shoal Lake), 81, 86, 292 + + Berens, Herman, 50 + + Berries, 413 + + Bethago-Tominick (Dewater-berry), 411 + + Bimmester, 2 + + "Biological Investigation of the Athabaska-Mackenzie Region, A," + by E. A. Preble, 23 + "---- ---- of the Hudson Bay Region, A," by E. A. Preble, 23 + + Birch, 417 + ---- Creeping, 417 + + Bitterns (American Bittern), 389 + + Black Bear Hill, 125, 283 + + Blackfeet Indians. _See under_ Indian + + Black-heads (Arctic Tern), 192, 314, 396, 397 + + Bloody Falls, 186, 187, 189, 195, 204 + + Blue-berry, 413, 414 + + Body, Robert, 393 + + Browne, Alexander, 10 + + Buffalo, 255-257, 263, 271, 276, 307, 308 + ---- (Musk-Ox) Lake, 164, 204 + + Bunting, Snow (Snow Bird, Snow Flake), 385 + ---- White-crowned, 386 + + Burbut, 114, 314 + + Burpee, L. J., 253, 419 + + Burrage, 416 + + Bustard, 384 + + Button, Sir Thomas, 379 + + Button's Bay, 105 + + + California, 46 + + _California_ (ship), 11 + + Calimut, 52 + + Canada, 44, 247, 249 + --- Northern, 23 + + Canadian Indians. _See_ Indian + ---- traders, 285 + + Canadians, 44, 200, 201 + + Cape Esquimaux, 341 + ---- Merry Battery, 295 + ---- Smith, 365 + ---- Tatnam, 351 + + Caribou, 5, 87, 105 + + Carruthers, Captain, 9, 10 + + Cascathry, 153 + + Cassin, 404 + + Cat (Peshew) Lake, 139, 140, 151, 207 + + Catesby (Mr.), 256 + + Cathawhachaga, 285 + ---- (Kazan) River, 86-89, 92, 117, 137, 289 + + _Charlotte_ (ship), 13, 48, 50, 56 + + Chawchinahaw, 52, 62, 64, 66, 68, 295 + + Cheesadawd Lake (Tchize-ta, Gite-du-Lynx, or Home-of-the-Wild-Cat + Lake), 140 + + Chesterfield Inlet (Bowden's), 41, 55, 273, 293, 365 + + Chipewyan, Fort, 198 + ---- Indians (Northern Indians). _See under_ Indian + + Christie Bay, 132 + + Christmas, 112 + + Christopher, Captain, 41, 46, 48, 55, 293 + + Churchill, 6, 7, 9-14, 46, 50, 80, 87, 105, 112, 125, 140, 200, 201, + 248, 253, 260, 285, 294, 307, 339-344, 346-348, 352, 355, 360, 365, + 377, 378, 382, 405, 411, 413, 414, 416 + ---- River ('Tsan deze, Iron or Metal River), 3, 8, 13, 43, 44, 57, + 62, 95, 126, 183, 196-198, 201, 214, 215, 222, 235, 236, 269, + 293, 294, 295, 313, 321, 323, 334, 339-342, 354-358, 360, + 364-367, 369, 370, 379, 382, 384, 385, 388, 389, 391-393, 396, + 401-407, 412-417 + + _Churchill_ (sloop), 56, 329 + + Clinton-Colden Lake, 139, 140, 148, 150, 151, 207 + + Cloudberry (Baked-Appleberry), 411 + + Clowey, 29, 128, 130-137, 139, 140, 148, 149, 207, 270 + ---- River, 132 + + Cluny, Alexander, 42, 419 + + Cobadekoock, 193 + + Cockles, 367 + + Cod, Common, 363 + ---- Rock, 363 + + Cogead Lake (Contwoy-to or Rum Lake), 151, 152, 205, 207 + + Coltsfoot, 416 + + Conge-cathawhachaga, 29, 30, 152, 153, 155, 156, 161-163, 167, 170, + 172, 173, 186, 204, 205, 222 + + Conjurers, 209, 228, 327 + + Conne-e-quese (Conreaquefe), 70, 77, 103 + + Contwoy-to or Rum Lake (Ko-[)a]-k[)a]-tcai-t[)i], Cogead Lake), 152 + + Cook, Captain, 4 + + "Cook's Third Voyage," 18 + + Copper Indian (Yellow Knife or Rock) River, 279 + ---- Indians (Red Knives). _See under_ Indian + ---- mine, 1, 9, 50, 101, 109, 394 + ---- Mountains, 194-196 + ---- River, 30, 154, 170, 192, 204, 220, 277, 330, 346, 393. + _See also_ Coppermine River + + Coppermine River (Tson-te, Sanka taza, Copper River), 7, 10, 11, 14, + 15, 17, 18, 23, 43, 57, 90, 100, 109, 119, 127, 139, 146, 147, 149, + 150, 151, 155, 169, 170, 172, 173, 186, 187, 204, 206, 207, 213, + 218, 225, 282, 294, 295, 334, 354, 371. _See also_ Copper River + + Corbett's Inlet, 41 + + Cos-abyagh (Rock Partridge), 232 + + Cossadgath (Cassandgath) Lake, 139 + + Crabs, 367 + + Cranberry, 80, 188, 313, 411, 412, 414 + + Crane, Brown (North-West turkey), 389 + ---- Hooping, 388, 389 + + Crantz (Mr.), 189, 191 + + Crawfish, 398 + + Cree. _See under_ Indian + + Crow, Cinereous (Whisk-e-jonish) + ---- (Whiskey-jack) (Geeza), 374 + + Crowberry, 411 + + Cumberland House, 5, 31, 86, 260, 267, 337, 344, 351, 354, 371, + 375-377, 384, 397, 398, 400, 403, 405, 408, 410 + + Curlew, 192, 390 + ---- Esquimaux (Hudsonian Curlew), 390 + + Currant, Black, 412 + ---- Red, 412 + + + Dalrymple (Mr.), 29, 30, 31 + + Dandelion, 416 + + Davis's Straits, 192, 330 + + Dawson (City), 148 + + Deer (Caribou), 58, 63, 64, 66, 67, 71, 78, 88, 90, 92, 98, 99, 102, + 103, 111, 112, 116, 117, 119, 120-122, 125-127, 138, 147, 148, 152, + 153, 156, 166, 167, 169-171, 174, 184, 192, 194, 213-216, 218, 220, + 225, 227, 234, 235, 236, 253, 276, 282, 287, 289, 290, 293, 305, + 306, 307-310, 316, 327, 336, 337, 342, 356, 366, 373 + + De le Potries, 384 + + _Discovery_ (ship), 9, 11, 44, 45 + + Divers, Black-throated, 394 + ---- Northern (Loons), 394 + ---- Red-throated (Loons), 395 + + Dobbs, Arthur, 9, 41, 42, 246, 248, 295, 419 + + _Dobbs_ (ship), 11 + + Dogribbed Indians. _See under_ Indian + + Dogs, 191, 310, 324, 325, 365 + + Doughty, Dr. Arthur G. (Archivist of the Dominion of Canada), 19 + + Douglas, Dr. John (Bishop of Salisbury), 18, 19, 139, 420 + + Dragge, T. S., 42, 166, 357, 382, 411 + + Dubawnt Lake (Doo-baunt Lake), 5, 91, 95, 105, 286 + + Dubawnt River (Doo-baunt River), 41, 91, 95, 105, 120, 272, 286, 287 + + Duck, 80, 83, 134, 274, 275, 307, 369, 380, 408, 409 + ---- Black, 408. _See also_ Duck + ---- Blue-winged Teal, 409. _See also_ Duck + ---- Common Teal, 409. _See also_ Duck + ---- Eider, 407. _See also_ Duck + ---- King, 408. _See also_ Duck + ---- Long-tailed, 408, 409. _See also_ Duck + ---- Mallard, 408, 409. _See also_ Duck + ---- Teal, 408, 409. _See also_ Duck + ---- Widgeon, 408, 409. _See also_ Duck + + Duncan, Captain, 32, 41 + + Dupetit-Thouars, ----, 20 + + Du Pratz (M.), 249, 261 + + Dymond, Joseph, 4, 363, 420 + + + Eagle, 369, 395 + ---- Fishing, 369. _See also_ Eagle + ---- Golden, 369. _See also_ Eagle + ---- White-headed, 369. _See also_ Eagle + + E-arch-e-thinnew Indians (Blackfeet Indians). _See under_ Indian + + Edlande Lake, 226 + + Egg River, 103, 105, 110, 111, 292, 294, 390 + + Elk, 307, 337 + + Ellis, Henry, 41, 42, 46, 48, 55, 56, 113, 166, 295, 420 + + "English Chief," 201 + + Ennadai Lake (Nipach Lake), 289 + + Ermin (Stote), 192, 352 + + Eskimo Point, 21 + + Eskimos, or Esquimaux, 3, 5, 11, 13, 46-49, 86, 87, 135, 149, 150, + 166, 174, 175, 176, 177, 178, 180-184, 186, 187, 189, 190, 191, + 194-196, 220, 265, 273, 275, 276, 293, 296, 313, 321-323, 330, 338, + 342, 346, 355, 361, 363, 403, 416 + + _European Magazine and London Review_, 1 + + "Explorations in the Far North," by Frank Russell, 152, 172, 218 + + Eye-berry, 413 + + + Fairchild, ----, 137 + + Fairies, 327 + + Far Off Metal River, 54 + + Fatt (Twal-kai-tua or Fat-fish) Lake (Wiethen Lake), 117, 292 + + "First Journey," by Sir John Franklin, 152, 172, 187, 196, 198 + + Fish, 63, 72-74, 77, 79, 80, 82, 88, 114, 115, 116, 151, 183, 184, + 225, 226, 234, 251, 253, 254, 273, 274, 288, 292, 305, 308, + 313-316, 325 + + Fitz Gerald, James, 50, 191 + + Five Hawser Bay, Melville Peninsula, 358 + + Forest trees, 417 + + Fort Albany, 8, 44, 351, 393, 403, 404, 408, 413, 417 + + Fort Chipewyan, 198 + + Fort Churchill (_see_ Fort Prince of Wales), 352, 355, 359, 365, 384, + 388, 411, 417 + + Fort Cumberland, 5, 31, 86, 260, 267, 337, 344, 351, 354, 371, + 375-377, 384, 397, 398, 400, 403, 405, 408, 410 + + Fort Enterprise, 338 + + Fort Hudson's, 398 + + Fort Moose, 413 + + Fort Prince of Wales (_see_ Fort Churchill), 2, 3, 4, 5, 16, 21, + 46, 49, 51, 55, 57, 61, 68, 70, 75, 76, 79, 87, 100, 105, 106, + 107, 110, 115, 124, 126-128, 137, 146, 147, 159, 162, 165, 166, + 201, 202, 232, 233, 260, 267, 269, 271, 276, 285, 291, 292, 294, + 295, 316, 322, 323, 328, 329, 331, 334, 340, 356, 401, 405 + + Fort Resolution, 225 + + Fort Richmond, 365 + + Fort Severn, 6 + + Fort Smith, 253, 267 + + Fort York, 5, 6, 8, 10, 13, 56, 160, 197, 236, 258, 260, 294, 307, + 340, 341, 344, 345, 357, 365, 366, 368, 377, 378, 379, 384, 389, + 390, 391, 392, 393, 398, 403, 404, 410, 416, 417 + + Fowler, Capt. John, 222 + + Fox, 192, 224, 255, 323, 348, 350, 355, 373 + ---- Arctic, 339 + ---- White, 340, 341 + + Franklin, Sir John, 23, 152, 153, 172, 186, 187, 196, 198, 218, 224, 420 + + Frobisher, Joseph, 5 + + Frogs, 368 + + Fullarton (Mr.), 44 + + _Furnace_, 11 + + + Garbet (Mr.), 48 + + "Geographie de L'Athabaskaw Mackenzie," by A. Petitot, 132, 423 + + Geological Survey of Canada, 5 + + Godwait, Red (Plovers) (Hudsonian Godwit), 391 + ---- Spotted (Yellow Legs), 391 + + Godwit, Spotted (Greater Yellow Legs), 391 + + Goosanders (Shell-drakes), 398 + + Goose, 58, 80, 81, 83, 134, 192, 271, 274, 275, 287, 290, 292, 307, + 313, 369, 380, 400, 403, 406 + ---- Barren, 406. _See also_ Goose + ---- Bean, 407. _See also_ Goose + ---- Blue, 404. _See also_ Goose + ---- Brent, 406. _See also_ Goose + ---- Canada (Pick-a-sish), 384, 402, 406. _See also_ Goose + ---- Common Grey, 401, 411. _See also_ Goose + ---- Common Wavey, 405. _See also_ Goose + ---- Dunter, 192, 407. _See also_ Goose + ---- Horned Wavey, 404, 405. _See also_ Goose + ---- Laughing, 405. _See also_ Goose + ---- White (Snow Goose), 402, 404, 405. _See also_ Goose + + Gooseberry, 410 + + Goose-hunting Islands, 294 + + "Governor, The, and Company of Adventurers of England," 8 + + Graham, A., 166, 295, 338, 339, 348, 351, 354, 408 + + Grant, Cuthbert, 200 + + Grass, 416 + ---- Marsh, 416 + ---- Rye, 416 + + "Great Company, The," 18 + + Great Slave Lake (Athapuscow Lake) ("Thu-tue" or "Lake of the + Breasts"), 13, 132, 139, 151, 200, 225, 226, 235, 253, 254, 255, + 267, 270, 278, 279, 281, 351, 404 + + Grizzled Bear Hill, 168 + + Grosbeak (American Red Bird), 385 + + Ground-squirrels, 169, 192 + + Grouse, 375, 383 + ---- Ruffed (Pus-pus-kee) (Pus-pus-cue), 375. _See also_ Grouse + ---- Sharp-Tailed (Pheasant) (Aw-kis-cow), 377. _See also_ Grouse + ---- White, 370. _See also_ Grouse + + Grubs, 368 + + Gull, 80, 83, 192, 292, 314 + + Gull, Arctic, 192. _See also_ Gull + ---- Black (Men of War), 396. _See also_ Gull + ---- Grey, 395, 396. _See also_ Gull + ---- White (Herring Gull), 395. _See also_ Gull + + Gullemots, Black (Sea Pigeons), 393 + + + Ha-ha-wie, 192 + + Hanbury River, 139, 272 + + Harding, C., 224 + + Hare, 369, 379 + ---- Alpine, 192, 193, 217, 316. _See also_ Hare + ---- American, 357. _See also_ Hare + ---- Varying, 355. _See also_ Hare + + Hawks, 369, 370 + + Hawks-eyes, 192 + + Hay's River, 365 + + Hearne, Samuel, 1-7, 10, 12-19, 21, 51, 52, 87, 105, 107, 109, 113, + 120, 139, 140, 151-153, 186, 187, 201, 218, 224, 235, 253, 272, + 282, 287, 289, 339, 345, 346, 355, 375, 377, 384, 385, 387, 390, + 393, 394, 406, 411, 412, 414, 415 + ---- (Mr.) (father of Samuel), 1 + ---- (Mrs.) (mother of Samuel), 1 + + Hearne's Journal, 6, 18, 255, 421 + + Heathberry (Nishca-minnick) (Grey Gooseberry), 188, 411 + + Hebridal Sandpipers (Whale Birds), 392 + + Hendry, Anthony, 12, 56 + + Hill Island Lake, 127 + + Hips, 413 + + "History of Greenland," 189 + + Hoarfrost River, 226 + + Holmes, Prof. W. H., 12 + + Hood, Lord, 2, 187 + + Hudson's Bay, 5, 7, 9, 11, 16, 29, 30, 32, 42, 43, 46, 47, 55-57, + 73, 85, 107, 136, 139, 144, 158, 165, 183, 185, 189, 190-192, + 217, 248, 251, 269, 273, 276, 285, 295, 298, 307, 311, 338, + 341-343, 348, 350-355, 357-360, 362-373, 375, 377-379, 383-400, + 402-404, 406-410, 412, 414, 415, 417 + ---- ---- Committee, 191 + ---- ---- Company, 2, 3, 6, 8, 9, 10, 18, 21, 31, 41, 42, 52, 54, + 55, 109, 122, 147, 184, 186, 197, 199, 200, 253, 267, + 295, 330, 334, 346, 364, 384 + ---- ---- Report, 10, 11 + ---- House, or Fort, 256, 398 + ---- Straits, 30, 189, 191, 363, 393 + + Hutchins, Thomas, 32, 402, 408 + + + I-dot-le-ezey (I-dot-le-aza), 100, 330, 334 + + Indian encampments, 5 + + Indian, or Indians, 9, 13, 14, 16, 45, 53, 54, 57, 67, 70, 71, 75, + 76, 83, 96, 98, 105, 108, 111, 113, 119, 122, 124, 125, 127, 130, + 133-136, 138, 147, 148, 151, 152, 155, 163, 168-171, 173-175, + 178-180, 182-187, 189, 194-196, 198, 199, 201, 204-207, 209-213, + 215, 218-220, 222, 223, 225-227, 230, 233, 234, 244-247, 249, + 254-256, 259, 260, 262, 263, 265, 267, 273, 275-280, 282, 284-288, + 293, 294, 306, 307, 309-311, 337-339, 346, 349, 352, 354, 365, + 369-372, 375-377, 381, 394-403, 405-411, 412-414, 416, 417 + ---- Athapuscow, 146, 161, 200, 223, 263, 266, 267, 269, 331, 333. + _See also_ Indian + ---- Blackfeet, 12, 56. _See also_ Indian + ---- Canadian, 158. _See also_ Indian + ---- Chipewyan (Northern), 5, 9, 17, 86, 107, 112, 118, 186, 200, + 286. _See also_ Indian and Northern Indian + ---- Copper (Red Knives), 136, 149, 152-157, 162, 163, 168, 170, + 171, 173, 193, 196, 198-201, 203-205, 222, 293, 299, 308. + _See also_ Indian + ---- Cree, 51, 353. _See also_ Indian + ---- Dogribbed, 136, 199, 200, 222, 263, 265, 293, 294, 299, 318. + _See also_ Indian + ---- E-arch-e-thinnew (Blackfeet), 55, 56. _See also_ Indian and + Blackfeet Indians + ---- Homeguard. _See also_ Indian and Southern Indian + ---- Mandan, 12. _See also_ Indian + ---- Neheaway, 161. _See also_ Indian + ---- Northern (Chipewyan), 9-11, 43, 49, 51, 52, 70, 71, 75, 87, 89, + 92, 97, 98, 100-103, 113-115, 120, 125, 126, 128, 138, 144, + 155, 158, 160, 161, 181, 197-203, 216, 224, 226, 227, 236, + 239, 249, 253, 254, 263, 265, 271, 273, 276, 281, 285-287, + 290, 291, 298, 299, 301, 303, 308, 310, 311, 313, 316, 317, + 321-323, 325-327, 329-331, 333, 338, 339, 342, 344, 354, 356, + 357, 369, 373, 374, 378. _See also_ Indian and Chipewyan Indian + + Indian, Southern (Homeguard), 51, 52, 70, 71, 85, 92, 97, 101, 103, + 113, 114, 144, 158, 160, 161, 199, 248, 266, 269-271, 276, 280, + 290, 291, 298, 303, 308, 310-313, 315, 318, 320, 321, 326-329, + 332, 333, 338, 345, 372, 374, 378, 387. _See also_ Indian + + Isbester, William, 52, 57, 70, 421 + + Island Lake, 17, 105, 112-117, 292 + + + Jack Snipe, 391 + + Jackashes, 314, 348, 350 + + Jackasheypuck (Common bearberry), 188, 416 + + Jacobs, Ferdinand, 160, 329, 331, 393 + + Jefferson, William, 233 + + Jeremie (Mr.), 293, 294, 379, 384, 421 + + Johnston, Magnus, 41, 46, 48, 329 + + Jones Island, 360 + + "Journey to the Shores of the Arctic Ocean," by Richard King, 279 + + Juniper, 417 + + Juniper-berry (Caw-caw-cue-minick) (Crowberry), 412 + + + Kamtschatkans, 344 + + Kasba Lake (Cossed Whoie, Partridge Lake), 17, 117-119 + + Kazan River (Cathawhachaga), 86, 87, 91, 105, 113, 118, 276, 289, 292 + + Keelshies, 87, 136, 138, 139, 140, 145, 202, 203, 331, 332 + + Kelsey, Henry, 12 + + Kepling, 363, 366 + + King or Grizzly Bear Lake, 224 + + King, Richard, "Journey to the Shores of the Arctic Ocean," 279, 421 + + King William Island, 151 + + Knapp's Bay, 41, 165, 291, 321-323, 366 + + Knight, Capt. James, 8, 9, 11, 44-47 + + + Labradore, 30, 192 + + Lake, Bibye (Dep. Gov.), 50, 51 + + Lake, James Winter, 50 + + Lakes-- + Aberdeen, 91 + Anaw'd Whoie (Lake of the Enemy), 226, 227, 233, 234 + Angikuni (Titmeg), 105 + Artillery (Atacho thua = Caribou-crossing-in-the-middle-of-the-lake + Lake), 23, 137, 139, 140, 225 + Athabasca (Arabasca), 119, 200, 201, 234, 235, 270, 278, 279, 404 + Athapuscow (Arathapescow, Great Slave, or Slave), 133, 234, 253, + 255, 262, 269, 270, 277 + Aylmer (Chlueata thua = Caribou-swimming-among-the-ice Lake), 151, + 225 + Baker's, 41, 55, 273 + Bedodid, 278 + Beralzone (Beralzoa = Shoal Lake), 81, 86, 292 + Buffalo (Musk-Ox), 164, 204 + Cat (Peshew), 139, 140, 151, 207 + Cheesadawd (Tchize-ta, Gite-du-Lynx, or Home-of-the-Wild-Cat Lake), + 140 + Clinton-Colden, 139, 140, 148, 150, 151, 207 + Cogead (Contwoy-to or Rum Lake), 151, 152, 205, 207 + Contwoy-to or Rum Lake (Ko-[)a]-k[)a]-tcai-t[)i]) (Cogead), 152 + Cossadgath (Cassandgath), 139 + Dubawnt (Doo-baunt), 5, 91, 95, 105, 286 + Edlande, 226 + Ennadai (Nipach), 289 + Fatt (Twal-kai-tua = Fat-fish Lake) (Wiethen), 117, 292 + Great Slave (Athapuscow) ("Thu-tue" or "Lake of the Breasts"), + 13, 132, 139, 151, 200, 225, 226, 235, 253, 254, 255, 267, 270, + 278, 279, 281, 351, 404 + Hill Island, 127 + Island, 17, 105, 112-117, 292 + Kasba (Cossed Whoie = Partridge Lake), 17, 117-119 + King or Grizzly Bear, 224 + Large Pike (Wholdyeah-chuck'd Whoie), 278 + Large White Stone, 188 + Le Gras (A ka thua = Fat Lake), 225 + Mackay (Clayki thua = White Sand Lake), 224, 225 + Magnus, 105 + Methy (Cook), 226 + Muddy Water (Tazennatooy), 279 + Napashish (Nutarawit), 91 + No Name, 224 + Noo-shetht (Newstheth tooy = Hill Island Lake), 278, 279 + Nueltin (Frozen Island, North Lined, Menishtick, Island), 112 + Partridge (Kasba), 118, 139, 140 + Peshew (Cat, No Name), 139, 140, 147, 148 + Pike (Whooldyah'd Whoie or Pelican Lake), 120, 125 + Point (Ecka tua = Fat-water Lake, Ek-a Tooh), 172, 186, 207, 213, + 218, 220, 225, 234, 277 + Providence, 224 + Reindeer, 117 + Scartack, 132 + Shethnanei (She-than-nee), 75, 80, 85 + Snow-bird (The-whole-kyed Whoie = Thel-wel-ky Lake), 29, 119, 287 + Sussex, 151 + Thaolintoa, 105 + Thaye-chuck-gyed Whoie (Large Whitestone Lake), 213 + Thoy-coy-lyned, 151 + Thoy-noy-kyed (Tha-na-koi = Sand Hill Mount, Aylmer Lake), 150, 151 + Tittameg, 132 + Walmsley, 140, 151 + Whiskey Jack, 292 + White Stone, 218 + Wholdiah (Wholdyah'd Lake or A Naw-nee-tha'd Whoie), 125, 127, 283, + 287 + Wild Cat, or Lynx (Seeza-tua), 140 + Winnipeg, 337 + Yath-kyed (White Snow, Haecoliguah), 86, 87, 89, 91 + + Lallemant, 19, 21 + + La Perouse, Admiral, 5, 6, 19, 421 + + Lapland Finch, 387 + + Larch, 417 + + Large Pike Lake (Wholdyeah-chuck'd Whoie), 278 + + Large White Stone Lake, 188 + + Larks (Shore Lark), 387 + + Lawson (Mr.), 400 + + Lefranc, Joseph, 246, 248 + + Le Gras Lake (A ka thua = Fat Lake), 225 + + Le Hontan, 376 + + Leroux, Laurent, 200 + + Lice, 359 + + Linnaeus, 389 + + Little Fish River (Nemace-a-seepee-a = fish), 115 + + Lofthouse, Rt. Rev. J., Bishop, 80, 140 + + Loons, 192, 314 + + Luc la Corne, 12 + + Lynx (Wild Cat), 341, 347 + + + Mackachy, 65, 68, 71 + + Mackay Lake (Clayki thua = White Sand Lake), 224, 225 + + Mackenzie, 254 + ---- River, 13, 235, 253, 294, 358 + ---- Valley, 405 + + Mackenzie, Sir Alexander, 13, 16, 201, 422 + + Magnus Lake, 105 + + Mandan Indians. _See under_ Indian + + Marble Island, 9, 11, 47-49, 293, 341, 364, 389, 411 + + Marley (Mr.), 18 + + Martin (Bank Swallow), 76, 132, 223, 224, 255, 348, 350, 351, 388 + + Martin, Humphrey, 408 + + Matonabbee, 14, 53, 57, 100-103, 105-110, 113-115, 119, 128, 130, + 132, 136, 137, 140, 141, 144-150, 153-155, 157, 169, 177, 203, + 205, 207, 208, 223, 227, 230, 233, 262, 266, 269, 270, 272, 284, + 285, 292, 312, 325, 328, 329, 330-333 + + May-flies (Ephemeridae), 345 + + McLeod Bay, 226 + + Merle, John Anthony, 50 + + Merriman, Thos., 52, 57, 70 + + Merry Island, 360 + + Merry, Robert, 50 + + Methy, 73, 254 + ---- Lake (Cook Lake), 226 + + Middleton, Captain, 11, 46, 48, 55 + + Monk, Captain, 198 + + Montreal, 5, 200, 235, 253 + + Moor, Captain, 11 + + Moos River, 5, 417 + + Moose, 223, 235, 236, 255, 257-263, 268, 271, 276, 278-281, 305, + 308, 310, 336-338 + + Moose Fort, 413 + + Moss, 83, 90, 94, 122, 169, 183, 187, 193, 205, 309, 313, 314, + 368, 416 + + Mouse, 192, 341, 352, 359 + ---- Hair-tailed, 350, 359. _See also_ Mouse + ---- Shrew, 359. _See also_ Mouse + + Muddy Water Lake (Tazennatooy), 279 + + Muscles, 367 + + Muskettoes, 169, 171, 259 + + Musk-ox, 64, 83, 84, 89, 164-167, 169, 172, 174, 184, 187, 192, + 194, 196, 257, 316, 336, 373 + + Musk Ox Mountain (Edegadaniyatha), 225 + + Musk Rat (Musquash) (Musk Beaver), 352 + + Musquash (Musk Rat) (Musk Beaver), 352 + + + Nabyah, 52 + + Napashish (Nutarawit), Lake, 91 + + "Narrative of Discoveries," by Thomas Simpson, 187 + + Navel's Bay, 321, 322, 341 + + "Naywatamee Poets" (Mandan Indians), 12 + + Neetha-san-san-dazey River, 54 + + Neheaway Indians. _See under_ Indian + + Nelson River, 8 + + Neville Bay, 385 + + No Name Lake, 224, 225 + + Noo-shetht Lake (Newstheth tooy Lake = Hill Island Lake), 278, 279 + + "North American Fauna," by E. A. Preble, 255, 350, 352 + + North Saskatchewan River, 12 + + Northern Indians (Chipewyan). _See under_ Indian + + North-West Company, 200, 201, 253 + ---- Passage, 1, 2, 11, 41, 46, 50, 295 + + "North-West Passage," by T. S. Dragge, 357, 382 + + Norton, Mary, 158 + ---- Moses, 3, 5, 10, 11, 13-15, 49-51, 57, 107, 108, 110, 158, + 202, 295, 329, 334, 405 + ---- Richard, 10, 11, 107, 328, 329 + + Nueltin (Frozen Island) Lake or North Lined Lake, or Menishtick Lake + (Island Lake), 112 + + Nutarawit River, 91 + + + Old-wives, 192 + + "On Snowshoes to the Barren Grounds," by Caspar Whitney, 218 + + Otter, 224, 314, 342, 348-350 + + Oule-eye, 170 + + Owl, Cob-a-dee-cooch (Hawk Owl), 372 + ---- Grey or Mottled (Ho-ho) (Great Horned Owl), 372 + ---- White (Snowy) (Wap-a-kee-thow), 192, 371, 372, 374 + + Oxford House, 351 + + + Pacific Ocean, 55 + + Paleluah, 87, 89 + + "Parry's Second Voyage," App. to, 358 + + Partridge, 63-66, 70, 72, 76-78, 83, 192, 193, 227, 273, 274, 292, + 316, 341, 379, 382 + ---- Rock, 380, 383. _See also_ Partridge + + Partridge Willow, 378, 383. _See also_ Partridge + ---- Wood (Mistick-a-pethow) (Day), 227, 234, 378, 383. + _See also_ Partridge + + Partridge-berry (Poison-berries), 413, 414 + + Partridge Lake (Kasba Lake), 118, 139, 140 + + Peace River, 337 + + Pelican, 397 + + Pemican, 89 + + Pennant (Mr.), 350, 354, 370, 375, 390-392, 394, 400, 405, 408 + + "Pennant's Arctic Zoology," 18, 32, 336, 339, 342, 348, 350, 351, + 354, 391, 403, 405, 408, 422 + + "Pennant's Supplement to Arctic Zoology," 19, 423 + + Perch, 254, 314 + + Periwinkle, 367 + + Peshew Lake (Cat Lake) (No Name Lake), 139, 140, 147, 148 + + Petitot, L'Abbe, 132, 140, 226, 234, 235, 423 + + Pheasant, 376, 377 + + Pigeon, 384 + + Pike, 73, 114, 225, 314 + + Pike Lake (Whooldyah'd Whoie or Pelican Lake), 120, 125 + + Pike, Warburton, 139, 224, 423 + + Pine, 372 + ---- Creeping (Shrubby red cedar), 412 + + Pine Martin, 351 + + Platscotez de Chiens, 293, 294 + + Plover (Hawk's Eyes), 192, 393, 403 + + Po-co-ree-kis-co (Pauk-athakuskow, Beskai deze or Knife) River + (North River), 62, 293, 294 + + Point Lake (Ecka tua) (Fat-Water Lake) (Ek-a Tooh), 172, 186, 207, + 213, 218, 220, 225, 234, 277 + + "Polar Regions," by Sir John Richardson, 153 + + Pond, Peter, 200, 235, 253, 423 + + Poplar, 417 + + Porcupine, 72, 264, 354 + + Port Nelson River, 365, 379 + + Postlethwayt, 157 + + Preble, Edward A., ix, 23, 335, 350-352, 355, 423 + + "Present State of Hudson's Bay, The," by E. Umfreville, 42 + + Prince (Mr.), 382 + + Prince of Wales Fort (_see_ Fort Churchill), 2, 3, 4, 5, 16, 21, 46, + 49, 51, 55, 57, 61, 68, 70, 75, 76, 79, 87, 100, 105, 106, 107, + 110, 115, 124, 126, 127, 128, 137, 146, 147, 159, 162, 165, 166, + 201, 202, 232, 233, 260, 267, 269, 271, 276, 285, 291, 292, 294, + 295, 316, 322, 323, 328, 329, 331, 334, 340, 356, 401, 405 + + Providence Lake, 224 + + Ptarmigan, Willow, 383 + + + Quadrant, Elton's, 29, 109, 117, 153 + ---- Hadley's, 29, 92, 94, 95, 98, 105, 109, 137, 222, 277 + + Quadrupeds, Pinnated, 360 + + Quiquehatch, 168, 224, 240, 243, 255, 325, 348 + + + Rabbit, 65, 114, 227, 234, 268, 316, 341, 342, 357, 378 + + "Rabbit's Head," 198 + + Rankin Inlet, 41 + + Raspberry-bushes, 413 + + Ravens, 192, 323, 373, 395 + + Red Deer, 337. _See also_ Wewaskish + ---- ---- River, 12 + + Reindeer Lake, 117 + + "Relation du Detroit et de la Baie de Hudson," by M. Jeremie, 294 + + Religion, 325 + + "Remarkable History of the Hudson's Bay Company, The," by George + Bryce, 296 + + "Report on the Dubawnt, Kazan, and Ferguson Rivers," by J. B. + Tyrrell, 5 + + Repulse Bay, 293 + + Richardson, Sir John, 139, 151-153, 172, 186, 187, 194, 213, 224, + 338, 351, 358, 399, 412, 423 + + Richmond Fort, 365 + + Rivers-- + Albany, 5 + Anderson, 254 + Assiniboine, 12 + Athabasca, 200, 201, 235 + Athapuscow, 267, 269 + Churchill(Tsandeze=Iron or Metal River), 3, 8, 13, 43, 44, 57, 62, + 95, 126, 183, 196, 197, 198, 201, 214, 215, 222, 235, 236, 269, + 293, 294, 295, 313, 321, 323, 334, 339-342, 354-358, 360, + 364-366, 367, 369, 370, 379, 382, 384, 385, 388, 389, 391-393, + 396, 401-407, 412, 413, 414, 415, 416, 417 + Clowey, 132 + Copper, 30, 154, 170, 192, 204, 220, 277, 330, 346, 393. _See also_ + Coppermine + Copper Indians (Yellow Knife or Rock), 279 + Coppermine (Tson-te) (Sanka taza=Copper River), 7, 10, 11, 14, 15, + 17, 18, 23, 43, 57, 90, 100, 109, 119, 139, 146, 147, 149, 150, + 151, 155, 169, 170, 172, 173, 186, 187, 204, 206, 207, 213, 218, + 225, 282, 294, 295, 334, 354, 371. _See also_ Copper + Dubawnt (Doo-baunt), 41, 91, 95, 105, 120, 272, 286, 287 + Egg, 103, 105, 110, 111, 292, 294, 390 + Far Off Metal, 54 + Hanbury, 139, 272 + Hay's, 365 + Hoarfrost, 226 + Kazan (Cathawhachaga), 86, 87, 91, 105, 113, 118, 276, 289, 292 + Little Fish (Nemace-a-seepee-a-fish), 115 + Mackenzie, 13, 235, 253, 294, 358 + Moos, 5, 417 + Neetha-san-san-dazey, 54 + Nelson, 8 + North Saskatchewan, 12 + Nutarawit, 91 + Peace, 337 + Po-co-ree-kis-co (Pauk-athakuskow, Beskai deze or Knife River, + North River), 62, 293, 294 + Port Nelson, 365, 379 + Red Deer, 12 + Saskatchewan, 5, 56 + Seal, 62, 65, 66, 71, 72, 81, 104, 105, 110, 115, 138, 203, 236, + 293, 365, 388 + Severn, 236, 340, 357, 386, 387, 402 + Slave (Athapuscow), 200, 235, 253, 267, 279 + Slude, 5, 365 + South Saskatchewan, 12 + T'ezus-desse or Poudrerie (Snowdrift), 132, 281 + Thee-lee-aza (Theetinah, or Blue Fish?), 281 + Theley-aza, 130, 134 + Thelon, 132, 272 + Thlewey-chuck (Great-fish River), 151 + Thlewiaza, 105, 113 + Whale, 31, 365 + + Roberts, Henry, 18 + + Robin, American, 384 + + Robson, Joseph, 9, 21, 41, 42, 55, 295 + + Rocky Defile, 196 + ---- Mountains, 358 + + Royal Geographical Society, 235 + ---- Society, 408 + + Russell Frank, 152, 172, 218, 424 + + + Sacre Falcon, 370 + + Salmon, 182-184, 305, 363, 366, 367 + + Sandstone Rapids, 172, 187 + + Saskatchewan River, 5, 56 + + Scallops, 367 + + Scartack Lake, 132 + + Scatlif, Daniel, 29 + + Scroggs, Captain John, 9, 11, 46 + + Sea-horse (Walrus), 184, 360, 362 + + Sea-horse Island, 360 + + Seal, 184, 186, 192, 362 + + Seal River, 62, 65, 66, 71, 72, 81, 104, 105, 110, 115, 138, 203, + 236, 293, 365, 388 + + "Search for the Western Sea," by L. J. Burpee, 253 + + Sea-unicorn, 363 + + Severn River, 236, 340, 357, 386, 387, 402 + + Sheep, 251 + + Shees, 254 + + Shell-fish, 367 + + Shethnanei Lake (She-than-nee), 75, 80, 85 + + Simpson Islands, 253 + + Simpson, Thomas, 187, 424 + + "Six Years' Residence in Hudson's Bay, An account of," by J. Robson, + 9, 42 + + Skunks, 351 + + Skylark, 387 + + Slave River (Athapuscow River), 200, 235, 253, 267, 279 + + Sloops Cove, 3 + + Slude River, 5, 365 + + Smith, Captain, 11 + + Snow-bird Lake (The-whole-kyed Whoie or Thel-wel-ky Lake), 29, + 119, 287 + + Sorrel, 416 + + Sossop (Saw-sop-o-kishac), 79, 80 + + South Saskatchewan River, 12 + + Southern (Homeguard) Indians. _See under_ Indian + + _Speedwell_, 50 + + Spiders, 368 + + Spurrel, Joseph, 50 + + Squirrel, Common, 192, 357 + + Squirrel, Ground, 358 + + Starfish, 367 + + Stephens, Joseph, 48 + + Stony Mountains, 162-164, 181, 204 + + Stote (Ermine), 352 + + Straits of Anian, 45 + + Strawberry (Oteagh-minick), 413 + + _Success_ (ship), 48 + + Suckers, 88 + + Sussex Lake, 151 + + Swallows (Barn Swallow), 388 + + Swan, 80, 134, 192, 274, 275, 281, 313, 346, 399, 400 + ---- Smaller (Hoopers), 399. _See also_ Swan + ---- Whistling, 400. _See also_ Swan + ---- Whooping (Trumpeters), 399. _See also_ Swan + + + Tench, 114, 314 + + T'ezus-desse or Poudrerie (Snowdrift) River, 132, 281 + + Thaolintoa Lake, 105 + + Thaye-chuck-gyed Whoie (Large Whitestone Lake), 213 + + Thee-lee-aza River (Theetinah River, or Blue Fish River?), 281 + + Theley-aza River, 130, 134 + + Thelon River, 132, 272 + + Thelwey-aza-yeth (Little Fish Hill), 29, 127, 128, 132, 147, 282 + + Thlewey-chuck (Great-fish River), 151 + + Thlewiaza River, 105, 113 + + Thlew-sa-nell-ie, 270 + + Thompson, David, 6 + + Thoy-coy-lyned Lake, 151 + + Thoy-noy-kyed Lake (Tha-na-koi or Sand Hill Mount or Aylmer Lake), + 150, 151 + + Thrush, Red-Breasted (Red Birds) (Black Birds) (American Fieldfares), + 384 + + Titmouse (Blackcap) (Kiss-kiss-heshis), 387 + + Tittameg Lake, 132 + + Tittemeg (Tickomeg), 73, 88, 114, 254, 305, 313 + + Trout, 72, 73, 89, 114, 225, 274, 278, 305, 313 + + Turnstone, 392 + + Tyrrell, J. B., viii, 5, 424-5 + ---- J. W., ix, 23, 137, 138, 139, 272, 425 + + + Umfreville, Edward, 13, 42, 425 + + Ungava, 404 + ---- Bay, 363 + + + Vaughan, Captain David, 8, 44, 45 + + Venison, 66, 67, 81, 104, 125, 164, 184, 380 + + Venus, 4 + + Vetches, 416 + + "Voyage" (Cook's), 21 + + "Voyage of La Perouse," 19 + + "Voyage to Hudson's Bay by the _Dobbs_ Galley and _California_ + in the Years 1746 and 1747, A," by Henry Ellis, 42, 166 + + "Voyages" (Alexander Mackenzie's), 19 + + + Wager Strait, 55 + ---- Water, 165, 293 + + Wales, William, 4, 22, 363, 425 + + Waller, 160 + + Walmsley Lake, 140, 151 + + Walrus (Sea-horse), 360 + + Wapoos, 86 + + Wapping, 29 + + Warbles, 215 + + Water insects, 345 + + Weasel, 352 + + Webber (Mr.), 343 + + Wee-sa-ca-pucca, 313 + + Wegg, Samuel, 18, 50 + + Wejacks, 348, 350, 351 + + Wewaskish (Canadian Elk), 262, 336-338 + + Whale, 340 + ---- Black, 363. _See also_ Whale + ---- White, 363, 365. _See also_ Whale + + Whale Cove, 41, 46, 293, 321-323, 341, 360, 366, 391 + + Whale River, 31, 365 + + _Whale-Bone_ (sloop), 46 + + Whiskey Jack Lake, 292 + + White Stone Lake, 218 + + Whitefish, 88 + + Whitney, Caspar, 218, 224, 426 + + Wholdiah Lake (Wholdyah'd Lake or A Naw-nee-tha'd Whoie), 125, 127, + 283, 287 + + Wild Cat (Lynx), 341, 347 + + Wild Cat or Lynx Lake (Seeza-tua), 140 + + Wilks, 367 + + Willicks, 192 + + Willow, Creeping, 414 + ---- Dwarf, 417 + + Willson, Beckles, 18, 50, 51, 426 + + Winnipeg, Lake, 337 + + Wish-a-capucca (Labrador Tea = Wishacumpuckey), 90, 188, 415 + + Wolf, 192, 224, 323, 325, 338, 347, 350 + + Wolvarine (Wolverene), 192, 240, 346, 350 + + Wood-pecker (Golden-winged Bird), 375 + + + Yath-kyed Lake (White Snow Lake, Haecoliguah), 86, 87, 89, 91 + + Yellow-legs, 192 + + York Factory, 5, 6, 8, 10, 13, 56, 258, 294, 368, 384, 389 + ---- Fort (Fort Bourbon), 160, 197, 236, 260, 307, 340, 341, + 344, 345, 357, 365, 366, 377, 378, 379, 384, 389, 390-393, 398, + 403, 404, 410, 416, 417 + + Young, Dr., 94 + + + + +THE PUBLICATIONS OF THE CHAMPLAIN SOCIETY + + + 1. THE HISTORY OF NEW FRANCE. By MARC LESCARBOT. With an English + Translation, Notes and Appendices by Professor W. L. GRANT of + Queen's University, and an Introduction by H. P. BIGGAR. Vol. + I., pp. xxi-331. (To be completed in Three Volumes.) + + 2. THE DESCRIPTION AND NATURAL HISTORY OF NORTH AMERICA + (ACADIA). By NICOLAS DENYS. Translated and Edited, with a Memoir + of the Author, Collateral Documents, and a Reprint of the + Original, by Professor WILLIAM F. GANONG. Pp. xvi-625. + + 3. DOCUMENTS RELATING TO THE SEIGNIORIAL TENURE IN CANADA, + 1598-1854. Edited, with a Historical Introduction and + Explanatory Notes, by Professor WILLIAM BENNETT MUNRO of Harvard + University. Pp. cxxiii-380. + + 4. THE LOGS OF THE CONQUEST OF CANADA. Edited, with a Historical + Introduction, by Colonel WILLIAM WOOD. Author of "The Fight for + Canada." Pp. xxvi-335. + + 5. NOUVELLE RELATION DE LA GASPESIE. Pa. CHRESTIEN LE CLERCQ. An + English Translation with the French Text, edited, with Notes, by + Professor W. F. GANONG. Pp. xvi-452. + + 6. JOURNEY FROM PRINCE OF WALES FORT IN HUDSON BAY TO THE + NORTHERN OCEAN, 1769-1772. By SAMUEL HEARNE. A New Edition, + edited, with Notes, by J. B. TYRRELL. + + 7. THE HISTORY OF NEW FRANCE. By MARC LESCARBOT. Edited by W. L. + GRANT and H. P. BIGGAR. Vol. II. + + [_In the Press._ + + + + +The Champlain Society + + President + + SIR EDMUND WALKER, C.V.O., D.C.L., LL.D., President of The + Canadian Bank of Commerce + + + Vice-Presidents + + SIR LOUIS JETTE, K.C.M.G., LL.D., Chief Justice of Quebec + + SIR D. H. McMILLAN, K.C.M.G., Lieut.-Governor of the Province of + Manitoba + + THE HON. RICHARD McBRIDE, K.C., Prime Minister of the Province + of British Columbia + + R. A. FALCONER, LL.D., President of the University of Toronto + + C. W. COLBY, M.A., Professor of History in McGill University + + + Honorary Secretaries + + GEORGE M. WRONG, M.A., Professor of History in the University of + Toronto + + ERIC N. ARMOUR, B.A. + + + Honorary Treasurer + + H. H. LANGTON, M.A., Librarian of the University of Toronto + + + Councillors + + A. G. DOUGHTY, C.M.G., LL.D., Dominion Archivist, Ottawa + + ADAM SHORTT, M.A., Civil Service Commissioner, Ottawa + + JAMES H. COYNE, M.A., LL.D., Registrar of the County of Elgin, + St. Thomas, Ontario + + HIS HONOUR L. W. SICOTTE, Stipendiary Magistrate, Montreal + + A. H. U. COLQUHOUN, LL.D., Deputy Minister of Education for + Ontario + + + Assistant Secretary-Treasurer + + MISS ELEANOR CREIGHTON + + * * * * * + + NOTE.--_Correspondence should be addressed in care of The + Canadian Bank of Commerce, Toronto, Canada._ + + + + + LIST OF MEMBERS + + + ABBOTT, H. Vancouver + ADAMS, F. D. Montreal + AIRD, JOHN Winnipeg + ARDAGH, H. H. Barrie + ARMOUR, ERIC N. Toronto + ARMSTRONG, G. E. Montreal + + BAIN, J. WATSON Toronto + BAIRD, Rev. Dr. Winnipeg + BARKER, SAMUEL, M.P. Hamilton + BARNETT, J. D. Stratford + BECK, Mr. Justice Edmonton + BELL, CHARLES N. Winnipeg + BELL, A. J. Toronto + BENNETT, R. B. Calgary + BICKNELL, JAMES Toronto + BIGGAR, O. M. Edmonton + BIRKS, W. M. Montreal + BLACK, J. C. Toronto + BLAKE, HUME Toronto + BLAKE, W. H. Toronto + BONAR, JAMES Ottawa + BONNER, G. T. New York + BORDEN, Sir F. W. Ottawa + BORDEN, R. L., M.P. Ottawa + BOYCE, A. C., M.P. { Sault Ste. Marie, + { Ont. + BOYD, Sir JOHN A. Toronto + BOYD, MOSSOM M. Bobcaygeon + BOYS, His Honour Judge Barrie + BREBNER, JAMES Toronto + BREITHAUPT, W. H. Berlin, Ont. + BRITNELL, ALBERT Toronto + BROUSE, W. H. Toronto + BROWN, ADAM Hamilton + BRUCE, ALEXANDER D. Gormley, Ont. + BRUCE, HERBERT A. Toronto + BRYCE, Rev. GEORGE Winnipeg + BUCHANAN, A. W. P. Montreal + BURKE, Rev. A. E. Toronto + BURLAND, Lieut.-Col. J. H. Montreal + BURPEE, LAWRENCE J. Ottawa + BUSCOMBE, FREDERICK Vancouver + + CAMERON, D. A. Toronto + CAMPBELL, GRAHAM Toronto + CAMERON, I. H. Toronto + CANTLEY, THOMAS New Glasgow + CARSTAIRS, J. S. Toronto + CARTWRIGHT, A. D. Ottawa + CASSELMAN, A. C. North Bay + CASSELS, HAMILTON Toronto + CAVEN, JOHN Toronto + CAVEN, W. P. Toronto + CHAMBERS, E. T. D. Quebec + CHIPMAN, C. C. Winnipeg + CLARK, A. H., M.P. Windsor, Ont. + CLARK, J. M. Toronto + CLARKE, C. K. Toronto + CLARKE, JOHN M. Albany, N. Y. + CLOUSTON, Sir EDWARD, } Montreal + Bart. } + COCKBURN, F. J. Quebec + COLBY, CHARLES W. Montreal + COLDWELL, Hon. GEO. R. Brandon + COLQUHOUN, A. H. U. Toronto + CONOLLY, R. G. W. St. Catharines + CORBET, J. B. Toronto + COX, Hon. GEORGE A. Toronto + COYNE, JAMES H. St. Thomas + CRAICK, W. A. Toronto + CRONYN, EDWARD Toronto + CRONYN, V. London, Ont. + CROSSLEY, FIELDEN Woodstock + CROWE, W. Sydney + CUMBERLAND, F. BARLOW Port Hope + + DAMPIER, L. H. Strathroy + DARLING, FRANK Toronto + DAVIDSON, WILLIAM Toronto + DAVIES, WILLIAM Toronto + DENNIS, J. S. Calgary + DEWAR, D. B. Hamilton + DEWART, H. H. Toronto + DE WITT, JACOB Montreal + DINGMAN, W. S. Stratford + DONALDSON, A. G. Toronto + DOUGLAS, JAMES New York + DOUGLAS, W. M. Toronto + DRUMMOND, G. E. Montreal + DRUMMOND, GUY M. Montreal + DWIGHT, H. P. Toronto + DYMENT, A. E. Toronto + + EAKINS, W. G. Toronto + EATON, Mrs. T. Toronto + ECCLES, F. R. London, Ont + EGERTON, HUGH E. Oxford, Eng. + ENGLEHART, J. L. Toronto + EWART, JOHN S. Ottawa + + FAIRCLOUGH, H. R. Palo Alto, Cal. + FALCONER, R. A. Toronto + FISH, J. N. Regina + FITTON, H. W. Brantford + FLAVELLE, J. W. Toronto + FLECK, A. W. Ottawa + FLEMING, Sir SANDFORD, } Ottawa + K.C.M.G. } + FORGET, Hon. A. E. Regina + FOSTER, F. APTHORP Boston, Mass. + FOTHERINGHAM, J. T. Toronto + FRASER, ALEXANDER Toronto + FULTON, J. H. New Orleans + + GALT, GEORGE F. Winnipeg + GARNEAU, Sir GEORGE Quebec + GARNEAU, HECTOR Montreal + GAUDET, PLACIDE Ottawa + GAY, FREDERICK LEWIS Brookline, Mass. + GILL, ROBERT Ottawa + GOODERHAM, GEORGE H. Toronto + GORDON, Rev. DANIEL M. Kingston + GOULD, C. H. Montreal + GOW, GEORGE Toronto + GRANT, W. L. Kingston + GREENSHIELDS, E. B. Montreal + GREY, His Excellency Earl Ottawa + GUNDY, W. P. Toronto + + HAMILTON, JOHN Quebec + HANNA, D. B. Toronto + HANNA, Hon. W. J. Toronto + HANNAH, I. C. { Forest Row, + { Sussex, Eng. + HARCOURT, F. W. Toronto + HART, JOHN S. Toronto + HARVEY, Mr. Justice Edmonton + HEATON, F. R. Montreal + HEBDEN, E. F. Montreal + HENRY, W. A. Halifax + HILLE, F. Port Arthur + HOBSON, R. Hamilton + HOGG, WILLIAM Toronto + HORNING, L. E. Toronto + HOSKIN, JOHN { Tunbridge + { Wells, Eng. + HOWLAND, PELEG Toronto + HUNTER, A. F. Barrie + HUNTER, Mr. Justice Victoria, B.C. + HUYCKE, His Honour Judge Peterborough + + INGERSOLL, J. H. St. Catherines + + JAFFRAY, Hon. ROBERT Toronto + JAMES, C. C. Toronto + JARVIS, AEMILIUS Toronto + JEMMETT, F. G. Toronto + JENNINGS, C. A. C. Toronto + JETTE, Sir LOUIS A., } Quebec + K.C.M.G. } + JONES, F. C. L. Toronto + JONES, H. V. F. London, Eng. + JONES, Hon. L. MELVIN Toronto + JOST, A. C. Guysboro, N.S. + + KAINS, ARCHIBALD San Francisco + KEEFER, FRANK H. Port Arthur + KEEFER T. C. { Rockliffe, + { Ottawa + KEMP, A. E. Toronto + KENNEDY, GEORGE Toronto + KENNEDY, T. J. Sault Ste. Marie + KERALLAIN, RENE DE Quimper, France + KERR, Hon. J. K. Toronto + KILGOUR, JOSEPH Toronto + KILGOUR, ROBERT Toronto + KING, Hon. W. L. MACKENZIE Ottawa + KINGMAN, ABNER Montreal + KYLIE, EDWARD J. Toronto + + LAFLEUR, EUGENE Montreal + LAIRD, ALEXANDER Toronto + LANG, A. E. Toronto + LANGLOIS, H. Toronto + LANGTON, H. H. Toronto + LANGTON, THOMAS Toronto + LASH, J. F. Toronto + LASH, MILLER Toronto + LASH, Z. A. Toronto + LAURIER, Rt. Hon. Sir } Ottawa + WILFRID } + LAUT, Miss AGNES C. Wassaic, N.Y. + LEARMONT, J. B. Montreal + LEE, JOHN T. Madison, Wis. + LEFROY, H. B. Toronto + LEFROY, W. London, Eng. + LEGGAT, WILLIAM Montreal + LEONARD, R. W. St. Catherines + LE SUEUR, W. D. Ottawa + LEVY, G. H. Hamilton + LIGHTHALL, W. D. Montreal + LINDSAY, G. G. S. Toronto + LITTLE, H. A. Woodstock, Ont. + LITTLE, Lieut.-Col. J. W. London, Ont. + LOTBINIERE, E. G. JOLY DE Quebec + + MCARTHUR, D. A. Ottawa + MCBRIDE, Hon. RICHARD Victoria, B.C. + MCCORKELL, Hon. J. C. { Cowansville, + { P.Q. + MACDONALD, J. BRUCE Toronto + MACDONALD, W. CAMPBELL Toronto + MCDOUGALL, JOHN A. Edmonton + MACFARLANE, W. G. { Grand Rapids, + { Mich. + MACGILLIVRAY, D. Halifax + MACHAR, Miss AGNES M. Kingston + MACHUM, E. R. St. John, N.B. + MCINNES, HECTOR Halifax + MACKENZIE, Sir WILLIAM Toronto + MCLAUGHLIN, J. F. Toronto + MCLENNAN, FRANCIS Montreal + MCLENNAN, JOHN S. Sydney, N.S. + MACMECHAN, A. Halifax + MCMILLAN, Sir D. H. Winnipeg + MACMURCHY, ANGUS Toronto + MACPHERSON, W. M. Quebec + MCPHILLIPS, L. G. Vancouver + MACWATT, His Hon. Judge Sarnia + MANNING, P. A. Toronto + MASON, J. A. C. { New Orleans, + { La. + MASSEY, CHESTER D. Toronto + MASSEY, JOHN Toronto + MASSEY, VINCENT Toronto + MASTEN, C. A. Toronto + MEREDITH, Sir WILLIAM Toronto + MERRETT, T. E. Montreal + MILLER, Rev. J. O. St. Catharines + MILLS, Lieut.-Col. D. London, Eng. + MILLICHAMP, R. Toronto + MORANG, GEORGE N. Toronto + MORRIS, H. H. Vancouver + MOSS, Sir CHARLES Toronto + MOXON, A. E. London, Eng. + MULVEY, THOMAS Ottawa + MURRAY, WILLIAM Vancouver + MURRAY, WALTER C. Saskatoon + MUSSEN, R. T. { Summerside, + { P.E.I. + MURTON, Sir WALTER { Langton, Kent, + { Eng. + + NEEDLER, G. H. Toronto + NORTHRUP, W. B., M.P. Belleville + NOYES, CHARLES WILLIAM Castine, Maine + + O'BRIAN, J. B. Toronto + O'BRIEN, A. H. Ottawa + OLIVER, E. H. Saskatoon + OSBORNE, W. W. Hamilton + OSLER, E. B., M.P. Toronto + OSLER, Hon. F. Toronto + OSLER, F. G. Toronto + + PARKER, Sir GILBERT London, Eng. + PATTERSON, E. G. Peterborough + PATTERSON, GEORGE { New Glasgow, + { N.S. + PEACOCK, E. R. Toronto + PEARCE, WILLIAM Calgary + PELL, S. H. P. New York + PHIPPS, A. R. London, Eng. + PONTON, Lieut.-Col. W. N. Belleville + PRICE, H. M. Quebec + PRIMROSE, A. Toronto + + READE, JOHN Montreal + REEVE, R. A. Toronto + RENNIE, GEORGE W. Stratford + RIDDELL, Mr. Justice Toronto + ROBARTS, A. W. Port Arthur + ROBERTSON, JAMES F. St. John, N.B. + ROBERTSON, W. J. St. Catherines + ROSS, Sir GEORGE W. Toronto + ROSS, J. F. W. Toronto + ROWELL, N. W. Toronto + ROWLEY, C. W. Calgary + RUNDLE, W. E. Toronto + RUSSELL, J. A. Windsor, N.S. + + SAUL, JOHN C. Toronto + SAVARY, His Honour Judge Annapolis Royal + SCOTT, C. S. Hamilton + SCOTT, H. P. Windsor, N.S. + SEWELL, FANE Toronto + SHORT, WILLIAM Edmonton + SHORTT, ADAM Ottawa + SICOTTE, His Honour Judge Montreal + SILCOX, SIDNEY Stratford + SILVER, H. R. Halifax + SKELTON, C. D. Kingston + SOMERVILLE, C. R. London, Ont. + SQUAIR, JOHN Toronto + STARR, F. N. G. Toronto + STEELE, J. J. Dundas + STEPHENSON, R. H. Leicester, Eng. + STONE, WILLIAM Toronto + STRATHY, G. B. Toronto + STRATHY, H. S. Toronto + SUTHERLAND, Mr. Justice Toronto + SWENY, Colonel G. Toronto + SYMON, Sir J. H. { Adelaide, South + { Australia + + TAYLOR, H. C. Edmonton + TIFFANY, E. H. Alexandria, Ont. + TODD, J. L. { Macdonald College, + { P.Q. + TRIGGE, A. ST. L. Toronto + TUNSTALL, SIMON J. Vancouver + TUPPER, Sir C. HIBBERT Vancouver + + VAN HORNE, Sir WILLIAM Montreal + + WADE, F. C. Vancouver + WALKER, Sir EDMUND Toronto + WALKER, E. CHANDLER Walkerville + WALKER, H. B. Montreal + WARNER, C. M. Napanee + WETHERELL, J. E. Toronto + WHITE, E. N. Winnipeg + WHITE, JAMES Ottawa + WHITE, W. T. Toronto + WILKIE, D. R. Toronto + WILLISON, J. S. Toronto + WITTON, H. B. Hamilton + WOOD, E. R. Toronto + WOOD, FRANK P. Toronto + WRONG, GEORGE M. Toronto + + YOUNG, A. H. Toronto + + + + + SUBSCRIBING LIBRARIES + + + Adelaide, S. Australia Public Library of South Australia + Albany, N.Y. State Library + Ann Arbor, Mich. University of Michigan + + Baltimore, Md. Enoch Pratt Free Library + " Johns Hopkins University + Boston, Mass. Athenaeum Library + " Public Library + Brampton, Ont. Public Library + Brooklyn, N.Y. Public Library + Buffalo, N.Y. Buffalo Historical Society + + Calgary, Alberta Western Canada College + Cambridge, Eng. University Library + Cambridge, Mass. Harvard University + Chicago, Ill. Newberry Library + " Public Library + " The John Crerar Library + " University of Chicago + Cincinnati, Ohio Public Library + + Detroit, Mich. Public Library + Dublin, Ireland Trinity College + + Edmonton, Alberta Alberta Provincial Library + + Fort William, Ont. The Women's Canadian Club + + Glasgow, Scotland Mitchell Library + " University of Glasgow + + Halifax, N.S. Presbyterian College + " Nova Scotia Legislative Library + Hamilton, Ont. Public Library + Hanover, N.H. Dartmouth College + + Kingston, Ont. Queen's University + + Lansing, Mich. Michigan State Library + Lawrence, Kan. University of Kansas + London, England Royal Colonial Institute + " Royal Geographical Society + " The Colonial Office Library + London, Ont. Public Library + Lynn, Mass. Public Library + + Madison, Wis. State Historical Library of Wisconsin + Minneapolis, Minn. Minneapolis Athenaeum + Montpelier, Vt. Vermont Historical Society + Montreal, P.Q. Fraser Institute + " Montreal College + " Normal School Library + + New Haven, Conn. Yale University + Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England Public Library + New York, N.Y. Public Library + " New York Historical Society + Northampton, Mass. The Forbes Library + + Ottawa, Ont. Dominion Archives + " Library of Parliament, Canada + Oxford, England Bodleian Library + + Paris, France Bibliotheque de l'Universite de Paris + " Bibliotheque Nationale + Philadelphia, Pa. The Library Company of Philadelphia + Poughkeepsie, N.Y. Vassar College + Providence, R.I. Brown University + " The John Carter Brown Library + + Quebec, P.Q. Legislative Library of Quebec + " Quebec Literary and Historical Society + + Salem, Mass. The Essex Institute + Sacramento, Cal. State Library of California + St. John, N.B. Free Public Library + St. Louis, Mo. St. Louis Mercantile Library Association + St. Paul, Minn. Minnesota Historical Society + St. Thomas, Ont. Elgin Historical and Scientific Institute + Stratford, Ont. Public Library + + Toronto, Ont. The Canadian Bank of Commerce + " Department of Education, Ontario + " Legislative Library, Ontario + " Osgoode Hall + " Provincial Archives + " Public Library + " University of Toronto + " Victoria University + + Urbana, Ill. University of Illinois + + Victoria, B.C. Legislative Library of British Columbia + + Washington, D.C. { Bureau of American Ethnology, + { Smithsonian Institution + " Library of Congress + West Point, N.Y. United States Military Academy + Winnipeg, Man. Alpine Club of Canada + " Women's Canadian Club + Worcester, Mass. Free Public Library + + + [Illustration: + A Map + _exhibiting M^R. HEARNE'S TRACKS in his + two Journies for the discovery of the_ + COPPER MINE RIVER + _in the Years 1770, 1771 and 1772 + under the direction of the + HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY_ + ] + + [Illustration: + A + Plan + _of the_ + COPPER-MINE RIVER + _Surveyed by + SAMUEL HEARNE + July 1771_ + ] + + [Illustration: + A Plan of + _ALBANY RIVER_ + in HUDSON'S BAY + _Latitude 52 deg..12'.0" North_ + _Longitude 82 deg..40'.0" W. from London_ + by S.H. 1774 + _Plan is laid down by Magnetical Compass. The three hummocks of + Wood on Sawpit Island can be seen in clear weather over the + Factory Island, in 3 fathom Water, and is a good Mark. + Saddle-back hummock bears due West from Albany Roads and is a + good Mark for laying the Buoys_. + ] + + [Illustration: + Plan + of + MOOS RIVER + in + _HUDSONS BAY, NORTH AMERICA + Lat. 53 deg.N. Lon. 83 deg.W. from London_ + by S.H. 1774. + ] + + [Illustration: + Plan + of + SLUDE RIVER. + _Lat. 52 deg..15' N. Lon. 83 deg..20' W._ + by S.H. + ] + + [Illustration: A MAP EXHIBITING MR. HEARNE'S TRACKS IN HIS TWO + JOURNEYS FOR THE DISCOVERY OF THE COPPERMINE RIVER IN THE YEARS + 1770, 1771, AND 1772 + Adjusted, as far as possible, in accordance with the latest maps + by J. B. Tyrrell, 1909 + ] + + [Illustration: MAP OF COPPERMINE RIVER as surveyed by SIR JOHN + FRANKLIN IN 1821 + _Scale--141/2 miles in 1 inch_ + REFERENCES--t Observation for Latitude. O Observation for + Longitude. Y Variation. T Dip. + _From Franklin's "Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the + Polar Sea"_ + ] + + * * * * * + + + Transcriber's Notes + + The editor retained the page numbering of the original book in + brackets [143]. These have been changed to braces {143} so as + not to conflict with footnotes in the text version. Page numbers + within words have been moved to the following interword space. + + Errors in punctuation and diacritical marks in French were + fixed. + + The notation [)...] represents a letter with the "breve" + diacritical mark over it ("Ko-[)a]-k[)a]-tcai-t[)i]", p. 152 + (footnote) and the index). Similarly, [=u] represents "u" with the + "macron" diacritical mark over it ("Waskas[=u], or + Wewaskas[=u]", p. 262 (footnote)). These letters cannot be + displayed in text encoded in Latin-1, but can be displayed in + the UTF-8 and HTML encodings. + + The following words appear in alternate spellings and have not + been changed: "buffalos" / "buffaloes", "carcases" / + "carcasses", "chisel" / "chissel", "dependence" / "dependance", + "eat" / "eaten" / "ate", "fur" / "furr", "Prince of Wales Fort" + / "Prince of Wales's Fort", "snowshoe(s)" / "snow-shoe(s)", + "Stony" / "Stoney", "tittymeg" / "tittimeg" / "tittameg" / + "tittemeg", "wolvarine" / "wolverene" / "wolvereen". + + Inconsistent hyphenation and diacritics of place names and + native names have not been changed. + + Hyphen removed: "a[-]cross" (p. 129), "bear[-]berry" (p. 427), + "day[-]break" (p. 94), "fin[-]like" (p. 360). + + Hyphen added: "a[-]head" (pp. 181, 204), "fire[-]arms" (p. 86), + "fire[-]wood" (p. 72), "gun[-]shot" (p. 181), "iron[-]work" (p. + 285), "land[-]side" (p. 179), "sea[-]side" (p. 54), + "tent[-]poles" (pp. 104, 163), "wood[-]work" (p. 191). + + "Cheif" changed to "Chief" in the caption of the portrait of + Hearne facing the original title page. + + p. 56 (footnote): "exploded" changed to "explored" (it has so + long been explored). + + p. 64: duplicate "of" removed (one of which was). + + p. 75: "eves" changed to "eaves" (over which the eaves of the + tent). + + p. 82: "aukwardness" changed to "awkwardness" (The awkwardness + of my load). + + p. 121: "of" inserted (on each side of the door). + + p. 157: "haunts" changed to "hunt" (Their annual haunts). + + p. 167: "scowring" changed to "scouring" (scouring the blade). + + p. 168, Index: "Quequehatch" changed to "Quiquehatch". + + p. 176: "differents" changed to "different" (inhabitants of the + different elements). + + p. 180: added "of" (on the East side the river). + + p. 195: "oar" changed to "ore" (ballasted with the ore). + + p. 246: "eight" changed to "eighth" (The eighth is the Mittain + Beaver). + + p. 246: "Joseph la France" changed to "Joseph Lefranc". + + p. 258: "aukward" changed to "awkward" (very awkward + appearance). + + p. 292: added "a" (Deer was so plentiful a great part of the way). + + p. 308, 315: "soked" changed to "soaked" (has been soaked and + scrubbed, when soaked in water). + + p. 313: "track" changed to "tract" (The track of land, that whole + tract of country). + + p. 343 (footnote [BY]): added "of" (often been at the killing of + them). + + p. 351: "patridges" changed to "partridges" (catch partridges, + mice, and rabbits). + + p. 373: "voilet" changed to "violet" (purple and violet colour). + + p. 391 (sidenote): "Jacks Snipe" changed to "Jack Snipe). + + p. 401: "streight" changed to "straight" (they fly straight to + the call). + + p. 406: "rout" changed to "route" (The route they take in + Spring). + + p. 423: "Societie de Geographie" changed to "Societe de + Geographie". + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Journey from Prince of Wales's Fort +in Hudson's Bay to the Northern Ocean in the Years 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772, by Samuel Hearne + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A JOURNEY FROM PRINCE OF *** + +***** This file should be named 38404.txt or 38404.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/4/0/38404/ + +Produced by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |