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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/38264-8.txt b/38264-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..286b035 --- /dev/null +++ b/38264-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3235 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Guatemala, the country of the future, by +Charles M. Pepper + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Guatemala, the country of the future + +Author: Charles M. Pepper + +Release Date: December 10, 2011 [EBook #38264] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GUATEMALA, COUNTRY OF THE FUTURE *** + + + + +Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Martin Pettit and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +GUATEMALA + +THE COUNTRY OF THE FUTURE + + +[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF HIS EXCELLENCY PRESIDENT DON MANUEL ESTRADA +CABRERA.] + + + + +GUATEMALA + +THE COUNTRY OF THE FUTURE + + +A MONOGRAPH + + +BY +CHARLES M. PEPPER + + +WASHINGTON, D. C. +1906 + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER. PAGE. + I. A Brief Description 9 + + II. A Progressive President and his Policies 20 + +III. The Soil and its Riches 30 + + IV. Trade and Markets 45 + + V. Climate and Immigration 56 + + VI. International Relations 64 + +VII. The Land of Travel and History 70 + + + * * * * * + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +Portrait of His Excellency President Don +Manuel Estrada Cabrera Frontispiece + +Monument to Columbus opposite 16 + +President and Members of Cabinet " 24 + +Vista of Aguna Plantation " 32 + +Bridge over Motagua River " 40 + +Street in Escuintla " 60 + +Plaza of Jocotenango, Guatemala City " 68 + +Landscape of Guastotoya River " 72 + + + + +PUBLIC OFFICIALS. + + +_President and Cabinet._ + +Señor DON MANUEL ESTRADA CABRERA, +_President of the Republic_. + +Señor DON JUAN BARRIOS, M. +_Minister of Foreign Relations_. + +Señor DON JUAN J. ARGUETA, +_Minister of Government and Justice_. + +Señor DON JOSÉ FLAMENCO, +_Minister of Public Improvement_ (_Fomento_). + +Señor GENERAL DON LUIS MOLINA, +_Minister of War_. + +Señor DON GUILLERMO AGUIRRE, +_Minister of the Treasury_. + +Señor DON J. ANTONIO MANDUJANO, +_Minister of Public Instruction_. + + + + +MINISTER AND CONSULS IN THE UNITED STATES. + + +Señor DON JORGE MUÑOZ, +_Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, +Highlands, Washington, D. C._ + +JOAQUIN YELA, +_Consul General, 2 Stone St., New York City_. + +D. KINGSLAND, +_Consul General, 1521 N. 11th St., St. Louis, Mo._ + +FELIPE GALICIA V., +_Consul General, 421 Market St., San Francisco, Cal._ + +C. MORTON STEWART, Jr., +_Consul General, Baltimore, Md._ + +JULIO NOVELLA, +_Consul General, P. O. Box 1374, New Orleans, La._ + +SHIRLEY CRAWFORD, +_Consul, Louisville, Ky._ + +GUSTAVO NIEDERLEIN, +_Consul, Philadelphia, Pa._ + +EDWIN R. HEATH, +_Consul, 218 Rialto Bldg., Kansas City, Kans._ + +BENJAMIN PRESTON CLARK, +_Consul, 92 Water St., Boston, Mass._ + +VICENTE J. VIDAL, +_Vice-Consul, Pensacola, Fla._ + +MANUEL MARIA SAMA, +_Consul, Mayaguez, P. R._ + +M. MERROW, +_Consul, Galveston, Texas_. + +ANDRES J. BALLIET, +_Consul, Seattle, Wash._ + +ORMOND W. FOLLIN, +_Consul, San Diego, Cal._ + + + + +UNITED STATES MINISTER AND CONSULS IN GUATEMALA. + + +LESLIE COMBS, +_Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, +Guatemala City_. + +ALFRED A. WINSLOW, +_Consul General, Guatemala City_. + +WILLIAM OWEN, +_V. & D. Consul General, Guatemala City_. + +CARL G. HEITMAN, +_Consular Agent, Champerico_. + +EDWARD REED, +_Consular Agent, Livingston_. + +SAMUEL WOLFORD, +_Consular Agent, Ocos._ + +FRANK SIMS SWAN, +_Consular Agent, San José de Guatemala_. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +A BRIEF DESCRIPTION. + + +The Republic of Guatemala, which name is derived from the Indian word +"Quanhitemallan," signifying "land covered with trees," has been +described as the privileged zone of Central America. This is because of +its resources, its climate, and its accessibility. + +The country is easily reached from all directions through its seaports +on both the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans and through its rapidly growing +system of railways. From California, from the neighboring ports of other +Central American countries and from Panama there is regular and reliable +steamship service on the Pacific coast. On the Atlantic or Gulf side +from New York, New Orleans, Galveston and Mobile there is frequent +steamship service, while there is also connection at Colon with English +and German lines. The steamers on the Pacific coast connect at San José +with the Guatemala Central Railway, which affords easy means of arriving +at the capital city and the great coffee-raising districts. These are +reached by the branch to Mazatenango, which forms a junction with the +Occidental Railway between Champerico and San Felipe. On the Atlantic +side is Puerto Barrios, which will derive additional importance from the +early completion of the Northern Railway and which will place New +Orleans within five days or less of Guatemala City, Chicago six days, +and New York seven days. Besides the means of communication afforded +jointly by the steamship lines and the railroads at an early date there +will be complete and uninterrupted railway communication with St. Louis +and other points of the Mississippi Valley through Mexico. The means of +communication and transportation are given more fully later on. + +Geographically the Republic of Guatemala is the heart of intertropical +America. It is the most northern part of Central America, in shape like +a polygon, with the southern side the longest. It lies approximately +between north latitude 13° and 42' and 17° and 49', and between 88° and +10' and 92° and 30' longitude west of Greenwich. Its area is 50,600 +square miles--the greatest length from north to south being 360 and from +east to west 390 miles. The Pacific coast line with indentations is +nearly 400 miles and the Atlantic line about 150 miles in length. + + +STRIKING PHYSICAL ASPECTS. + +In its physical aspects Guatemala is a country of mountains, tropical +forests, lakes and rivers and coast plains. It was described by Humboldt +more than one hundred years ago as extremely fertile and well +cultivated, and this description holds good to-day, though there are +vast areas of rich agricultural land yet open to profitable cultivation +and only awaiting immigration to develop their richness. + +The Guatemalan Andes consist of three minor mountain systems. These are +the northern zone, chiefly of denuded cones, 1,500 to 2,000 feet in +height, with plains lying between them; the central zone consisting of +ranges and chains running east and west with many marked elevations +rising from 7,000 to 14,000 feet; and the southern zone consisting of +eruptive chains which culminate in many notable volcanic peaks, some of +which are more than 14,000 feet in height. These are known as the +Cordilleras and they parallel the Pacific Ocean. + +There are three river systems emptying respectively into the Gulf of +Mexico, the Atlantic and the Pacific. Some of the streams flowing into +the Gulf of Mexico are navigable by steamboats of light draught. + +Of the Atlantic tributaries the principal rivers are the Sarstoon, the +Motagua and the Dulce; the latter empties into the Gulf of Honduras. +Navigation is possible on the Motagua for about 75 miles from the mouth. +The rivers flowing into the Pacific include the Paz, the Suchiate, and +the Patulul. These have their sources in the Andean Cordilleras or the +neighboring highlands. There is also the Michatoya which is navigable +for small boats to its confluence with the Maria Linda. Generally +speaking, a few of the rivers on the southern coast might be made +navigable for short distances with boats of very light draught. + +Guatemala has a series of inland lakes which include Izabal, Atitlan, +Amatitlan, which are capable of steam navigation; Peten, Ayarza and +Guija. The largest of these is Lake Izabal, which is 58 miles long by 12 +miles in width and which has its outlet through the Dulce River into the +Gulf of Honduras. + +The cities and municipal districts having a population of 10,000 and +upwards are as follows: + + + NAME. POPULATION. + Guatemala City 100,000 + Antigua 10,000 + Quezaltenango 25,000 + Totonicapan 33,000 + Coban 23,000 + Chiquimula 13,000 + Jalapa 13,000 + Escuintla 13,000 + Salamá 13,000 + Amatitlan 10,000 + Zacapa 12,000 + Flores 13,000 + Jutiapa 14,000 + Huehuetenango 10,000 + Retalhuleu 10,000 + Sololá 15,000 + Mazatenango 10,000 + San Marcos 10,000 + Atitlan 10,000 + + +THE HANDSOME CAPITAL CITY. + +Guatemala, the capital, is the largest city in Central America. The +location is unusually healthy, being 5,000 feet above sea level. The +city is laid out on a splendid scale with many fine avenues and parks. +It is improving its system of tramways by changing to electricity as +the motor power. The public buildings are especially notable. Among the +principal ones are the Palaces of the Government, the Presidency, the +Legislative Power, the Judicial Power, the Municipality, and the +Archbishopric; the Cathedral and other magnificent churches; the +Ministry of Public Improvement (Fomento), the Mint, the Conservatory of +Music, the general offices of accounts, of police, and of liquors and +internal revenue; the custom-house, the national institutes of young +men, of young ladies and of the native race, the first of which is +provided with a meteorological observatory; the schools of law, +medicine, engineering, polytechny, and arts; the children's college and +a large number of public schools; the Colon theatre; the registry of +real estate, the national printing-office, the post-office, the National +Museum; the military hospital, and the general hospitals, the asylums +for the insane and for convalescents and invalids; the central and the +Calvary markets; the penitentiary and the artillery, cavalry, and Guard +of Honor and San Francisco barracks; San José and Matamoros forts, and a +very large number of other imposing edifices. The American Club, which +has several hundred members, mostly citizens of the United States, +occupies fine quarters. + +Some of the parks, plazas, and public drives are adorned with very +beautiful marble or bronze statues. Among the principal ones are the +bronze monument of Christopher Columbus in the central park and the +marble one of the same historic personage in the garden of the Colon +Theatre; that of General J. Rufino Barrios and that of Don Miguel Garcia +Granados in the boulevard of the Reforma; and that of Friar Bartolomew +de Las Casas in the campus of the Institute of the Indian race. The last +three statues are of bronze. + +The seaports of Guatemala are of a varied character. Their value grows +every day because of the increased commerce that is resulting from the +development of the country under the industrial policies of President +Estrada Cabrera. On the Atlantic the leading ports are Livingston, +Izabal, Santo Tomas, and Puerto Barrios. Of these Puerto Barrios is +easily first. It lies at the extremity of the Gulf of Amatique, is +spacious and is well protected against winds. As the terminus of the +Guatemalan Northern Railway it is assured of a very extensive trade both +in exports and in imports. Puerto Barrios is not only a receiving and +distributing center for Guatemala, but also for a considerable portion +of the neighboring Republic of Salvador, which has no port on the +Atlantic. + +The chief ports on the Pacific side are San José, Champerico, and Ocos. +By far the largest amount of business is done through the port of San +José, which is the terminus of the Guatemalan Central Railroad. It has +extensive quays and other facilities for navigation. + + +OCEAN TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. + +Guatemala is well supplied with ocean transportation facilities, several +of the steamship companies receiving aid from the government. On the +Pacific coast there is the Pacific Mail which maintains a regular +fortnightly service with extra vessels during the coffee season and +which touches at the ports between San Francisco and Panama. The German +line known as the Kosmos puts the Guatemalan ports in communication with +the West Coast of South America as well as with the ports of California +and Mexico. It carries both passengers and freight. There are also +numerous small coasting vessels. It is probable that service will be +resumed by the various Chilean lines which formerly proceeded to San +Francisco, touching at Guatemalan and other ports, but which of recent +years have not gone north of Panama. All the vessels have excellent +passenger accommodations. + +From the Atlantic ports there are ships engaged in the fruit trade with +New York and Boston, some of which carry passengers. Usually, however, +passengers prefer to travel by way of New Orleans or Mobile, from either +of which cities every Thursday there is a vessel plying directly to +Puerto Barrios. The most complete service is that maintained by the +United Fruit Company. + +In view of the growing development on the Atlantic slope and of the +commerce which is certain to result there is an excellent opportunity +for an increased steamship service with the ports of the United States. +The time could be greatly lessened with advantages both in the +transportation of freight and in the benefit to passengers. The policy +of the government towards steamship lines both as relates to port +charges and to other measures is a most liberal one and every inducement +is offered to engage in furnishing additional facilities, which will +shorten the time between the different points and increase the frequency +of communication. + + +GROWTH OF RAILROAD SYSTEM. + +The railway system of Guatemala under the administration of President +Estrada Cabrera is certain to be the most useful means of developing the +country. Every encouragement is given to capital to engage in railroad +enterprises. The general plan includes both an interoceanic railroad and +links in the intercontinental or north and south lines. No measure of +President Estrada Cabrera's administration has been of greater +importance than his action in securing the completion of the Northern +Railway, which will be open for traffic throughout its entire length by +the end of 1906. This places the capital and the whole interior of the +country in direct communication with Puerto Barrios and insures a very +heavy decrease in the cost of freight both for the agricultural exports +and for the merchandise and other imports. The line runs from Guatemala +City to El Rancho and thence to Puerto Barrios. At various times +concessions were given for building the different sections, but +circumstances caused many of them to be almost abandoned. + +In the face of repeated discouragements President Estrada Cabrera took +up the subject with resolute spirit and with the sanction of the +National Assembly made a contract with a syndicate of which the +principals were Sir William C. Van Horne, the celebrated railroad man, +who completed the Canadian Pacific Railway in the face of monumental +difficulties and who subsequently built the Cuba Central Railway; and +Minor C. Keith, of the United Fruit Company, who for a third of a +century had been identified with various successful enterprises in +Central America. Subsequently the Guatemala Central Railway took a share +in the enterprise and also German banking and coffee interests. Under +the contract no export duty is to be laid on agricultural exports +transported over the railroad except coffee and the Company is given the +right to fix its passenger and freight charges on a gold basis. There +were many engineering difficulties to be overcome, the chiefest of which +was the bridging of the Motagua River. The material for this railway +construction was imported principally from the United States, the rails +from Maryland and the bridgework across the Motagua and other rivers +from Pittsburg. + +The importance of this Northern Railway to the development of Guatemala +is incalculable. It insures the opening up of a very rich country which +means a great addition to the exports of Guatemala and it also should +bring a large immigration because of the facilities for easy +communication and access to the markets of the United States which it +will afford. With the operation of the Northern Railway in connection +with the Guatemala Central, the country will have a through railway line +from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, 270 miles in length. While the +interior development is the chief benefit of this through railway +system, it is not unlikely that during the years that must pass until +the Panama Canal is completed some of the international traffic which +cannot be accommodated on the railway line across the Isthmus will find +a cheap and expeditious passage across Guatemala. + +On the Pacific slope the leading railway system is the Guatemala +Central. It was built by C. P. Huntington and is one of the best +railroads anywhere south of the Rio Grande. Though of narrow gauge the +roadbed was laid for standard gauge, and this change can be made at any +time. Unlike most foreign railways the Guatemala Central maintains the +American system of checking baggage. Its main line and branches cover +the coffee-raising districts of the Pacific coast section of Guatemala. +The Occidental Railroad has about 50 miles of track and the Ocos line 20 +miles. Both of these are on the Pacific slope. + + +COMPREHENSIVE RAILWAY POLICY. + +It is worth knowing that while the interoceanic line approaches +completion Guatemala is making decided progress in the links of the +Pan-American or intercontinental north and south trunk line. From a +junction with the Northern a branch will run south to Zacapa and +ultimately will be extended into Salvador. Towards the north there is +only a section of 30 miles to be completed in order to prolong the +Guatemalan system to Ayutla on the border of Mexico and this will be +done as soon as the extension of the Mexican lines to the boundary are +completed. These extensions are to be finished within two years, so it +may reasonably be said that by the end of 1907, if not sooner, a through +railway journey will be possible from San Francisco, Chicago, or New +York to the capital of Guatemala. The importance of this railway +building was shown by Senator Stephen B. Elkins, the chairman of the +Senate Committee on Interstate Commerce, in a speech made at the dinner +given the Pan-American Railway Committee by the Hon. H. G. Davis. In his +speech Senator Elkins said that the freight on coffee, which now +approximates $20 per ton or $1,000 on a carload of 50 tons, would be +cheapened till it came down to $250 per carload, or $5 per ton. + +[Illustration: MONUMENT TO COLUMBUS.] + +The railroad laws of Guatemala are thus explained in my official report +as Commissioner of the Pan-American Railway: + +"The railways of Guatemala are regulated by the provisions of the +Commercial Code and by the general railway law known as Decree No. 566, +dated February 1, 1898. By the terms of this decree persons or companies +seeking franchises are required to submit the plans to the Department of +Fomento; when indorsed by that Department the sanction of the Council of +State is sought, and finally the approval of the National Legislature. +All contracts celebrated by the executive power have to be approved by +the National Legislature. The contracts may be with designated +individuals, with persons acting for others, or for companies that are +to be formed. + +"Concessions can be granted with subsidy or without it, guaranteeing or +not the capital which may be invested, with an interest proportionate to +the product. The Government shall include in the estimates the share of +pecuniary responsibilities required for fulfilling the obligation +contracted. + +"The State may exempt the enterprise from the payment of every class of +contributions, from the use of stamped paper and fiscal dues, for the +time which it may consider just or opportune, but in every instance the +exemptions shall be specified in the contract. + +"The right of eminent domain or expropriation for the benefit of +grantees holding franchises is enforced. The Government also undertakes +to procure uniformity in the gauge and the rails. + +"The Government offers every inducement to promote the extension and +development of railroads in the country. The best evidence of its policy +toward legitimate and genuine capital is shown in the terms of the +contract for the completion of the Northern Railroad. + +"The engineering difficulties of railroad construction in Guatemala are +not grave, as the lines skirt the foothills of the great agricultural +regions. The immense natural resources, consisting of the products both +of the tropical and the temperate climates, such as coffee, sugar, +tobacco, the cereals; the vast pasturage for live stock; the undeveloped +timber industries, and the unexploited mines, all open up prospects for +profitable traffic." + +In addition to its railways Guatemala seeks to maintain a complete +system of highways or cart roads. Among the most important cart roads +which have recently been built or are now under construction, are those +from the capital to San Juan Sacatepequez, San Pedro and San Raymundo. +There is also a cart road between Huehuetenango and Quezaltenango; one +from Coban to Quiche which will join the departments of the north with +the rich western section of the Republic; from Totonicapan to Quiche; +that between Ovejero and Trujillo, which will place in communication the +departments of Jutiapa and Jalapa; that from Tumbador to San Marcos; +that from Solola to Panajachel; that from Chicacao to Nahualate; and +finally the highway from San Jeronimo and Rancho San Augustin, which +will join the department of Baja Verapaz with Zacapa. All these roads +serve as new arteries for the development and the enlargement of +commerce and agriculture and this has been the special care of President +Estrada Cabrera, who has provided the means for opening, wherever +possible, the necessary ways of communication. + +Distances between the capital city and the principal points of the +country are as follows: + + + GUATEMALA TO MILES. + Antigua 27 + Chimaltenango 36 + Amatitlan 18 + Escuintla 43½ + Cuajiniquilapa 42 + Solola 90 + Totonicapan 111 + Quezaltenango 120 + Mazatenango 138 + Retalhuleu 153 + San Marcos 165 + Huehuetenango 195 + Santa Cruz de Quiche 96 + Salamá 69 + Coban 126 + Flores 321 + Izabal 216 + Zacapa 126 + Chiquimula 135 + Jalapa 75 + Jutiapa 87 + + +POSTAL AND CABLE SERVICE. + +The means of facilitating intercourse both among its own people and with +the outside world has always been encouraged by the government of +Guatemala. + +The Republic is a member of the International Postal Union. It has an +excellent post-office service, both foreign and domestic. Complete +information is given in the Postal Code of the Republic. During the last +year the number of pieces of mail received in all the offices of the +Republic was nearly 5,000,000, while the mail matter transmitted +amounted to 3,653,000 separate pieces. The telegraph and telephone are +nationalized and are controlled and operated by the Government, though +there are also some private telephone lines in the capital. The national +telegraph lines have a total length of about 5,300 kilometers, 3,290 +miles, and the telephone lines of 500 kilometers, 310 miles. The number +of telegrams transmitted in a given year was 1,106,832. The Government +is constantly constructing new lines both for telegraph and telephone +service. At the present time there are nearly 200 telegraph offices and +about 100 telephone offices. The rates both for telegraph and telephone +messages, which are payable in Guatemalan currency, are quite moderate. +A telegram of 10 words to any part of the Republic costs about 5 cents +in gold. The long distance telephone service is at the rate of about 15 +cents for a five minutes' conversation. + +The cable service is maintained by the Central and South American +Telegraph Company, whose main office is at San José. The following are +the charges per word in gold: + + + Guatemala to points in the United States 55 cts. + " " " Great Britain 80 cts. + " " " France 80 cts. + " " " Germany 80 cts. + " " " Canada 58 cts. + " " " Central America 29 to 32 cts. + " Havana, Cuba 66 cts. + " points in Mexico 31 to 44 cts. + " City of Panama 37 cts. + " City of Colon 47 cts. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +A PROGRESSIVE PRESIDENT AND HIS POLICIES. + + +Guatemala in order to fulfil its destiny as the country of the future +must be assured of stable and progressive government hospitable to +foreign capital. To insure these things it is necessary to have the +right man at the head of affairs. No one now questions that Guatemala +possesses this advantage in the person of Manuel Estrada Cabrera, whose +term as President will not expire till 1911. + +The best test of any public man entrusted with the responsibility of +government is the opinion of disinterested foreign observers whose +position gives them the opportunity to judge. This opinion was voiced by +Mr. Leslie Combs, the American Minister Plenipotentiary to Guatemala, on +the occasion of a New Year's reception by President Estrada Cabrera +(1905), when the diplomatic corps called on the President in a body. +Speaking for himself and for his colleagues of the Diplomatic Corps +Minister Combs on that occasion said: + + + "Upon such an occasion as this criticism or compliment would alike + be out of place, but it may be permitted to mention the wonderful + development in Mexico in the past ten years, the great work now in + hand to the south and to predict that Guatemala in material wealth + and well-being has a great future before her. We hope this will be + realized in your next administration and that this year will + distinctly mark its advent. + + "The wise base their hopes of the future upon their experiences of + the past and we look to the peace and order maintained by your + administration in the past seven years as a guarantee that your + people may expect as much in those that are to follow. + + "We remember that called to your position of responsibility by a + tragedy you have firmly held the authority with which you have been + entrusted. We remember that by the diplomatic settlement of 1902, + by arbitration and negotiation, you have settled all the foreign + claims of importance against your government and have given rise to + not one yourself. We remember that hardly had the ashes cooled + after the terrible disaster of Santa Maria when railway spikes were + being driven to its base and the Mazatenango Railway opened, that + the Northern Railway contract seems to guarantee the completion of + that highway to the Atlantic at an early date. + + "These achievements in a period of depression, in the face of + natural phenomena of almost unparalleled destructiveness, warrant + the hope that conditions may enable you to direct the destiny of + Guatemala still further along on the highway to that position all + hope she may one day occupy. A noble field lies before you. That + you may be able to occupy it to the greatest advantage of your + country is our earnest wish." + + +The tribute from Minister Combs, as will be noticed, especially +emphasizes President Estrada Cabrera's qualities as a man of +achievement. That is the keynote of his character, to do something for +his country. + +President Estrada Cabrera is a civilian executive. His public life has +been that of a lawyer eminent in his profession. + + +SUPPORT OF LIBERAL PRINCIPLES. + +In his participation in public affairs President Estrada Cabrera always +has supported liberal principles. It was therefore natural that he +should be prominent in the councils of the Liberal party and should +become the leader of that organization. His career has been one to +familiarize him with all the departments of the government. He served as +Secretary of Government and Justice, and it was while, holding this +position that in order to investigate a land controversy he went out +into the wilderness himself and spent several weeks going over the +sections concerning which he desired to be fully informed. The result +was that this controversy which had been in dispute for a long term of +years was finally settled in the manner most equitable and just for the +parties interested. This is the way President Estrada Cabrera works when +the interests of the State are involved. + +In 1898 when President-General José Maria Reyna Barrios was killed, Mr. +Estrada Cabrera was _Primer Designado_, the position which corresponds +to vice-president in the United States and under which he became acting +President until an election could be held. At that election he was +chosen President by a substantially unanimous vote. An indication of his +public policies was given by him when he outlined his programme on +coming into the responsibility for the government of Guatemala during +the interim which he served in the character of _Primer Designado_. On +that occasion he said: + + + "My administration will be brief and of a temporary character, but + not for that reason shall it be left for History to demand of me a + strict account of my acts during this period. I declare in the most + solemn manner before my fellow citizens that I wish to hand back + the beautiful standard of my country without stain. I desire that + the Constitution, the sacred repository of our liberties, be not + soiled in my hands. My hope is that all of my compatriots may enjoy + the life and public liberties that are rightfully theirs. I wish + that all the guaranties may protect them in the moment when they + approach the ballot boxes to cast their vote for the person to whom + it will be given to direct the destinies of our common country." + + +It was after this declaration and after several months' experience under +President Estrada Cabrera's administration that in September, 1898, the +people chose him to fill out the full presidential term and then in 1904 +re-elected him for the term which will expire in 1911. + +When President Estrada Cabrera became charged with the full +responsibility of power in 1898, Guatemala was in the midst of political +complications and of a very severe industrial crisis. His first labor +was to insure political tranquillity. When this was accomplished he gave +all his energies and his talents to developing the resources of the +country and to the improvement of public administration. From this point +a recent writer, confirming the eulogy of Minister Combs, said: + + + "Guatemala now enjoys unalterable peace. Her progress is most + notable and instead of investing the public funds exclusively in + swords and cannons there have been instituted the annual festival + of Minerva, the most splendid work of Estrada Cabrera as ruler and + as patriot, arousing in this manner in the people the desire for + instruction and fostering by all possible means the material + progress of the country; giving facilities and opening new ways to + traffic and commerce; nourishing industries, science and the arts; + beautifying the cities and villages; affording to all the + advantages of modern improvements and spreading the knowledge of + hygiene among the masses." + + +A RECORD OF ACHIEVEMENT. + +In a general way the administration of President Estrada Cabrera has +been described as the political emancipation and the administrative +emancipation. The former topic will be considered in the explanation of +Guatemala's international relations. The administrative reforms which +President Estrada Cabrera has introduced are numerous. He has reduced in +a large measure the public debt and has paid almost entirely the +recognized foreign claims incurred by previous administrations, has +given marked impulse to the construction of highways, bridges, and other +public works; has systematically fostered agriculture; has reformed and +liberalized the Civil Codes and Proceedings; has extended the system of +posts, telegraphs, and telephones; has established patriotic +celebrations of an industrial, agricultural, literary and scientific +character; has reorganized the army and the branch of military hygiene, +has enacted rigorous measures of quarantine against yellow fever, +smallpox, and the bubonic pests; has enlarged considerably the public +schools and the charitable institutions by constructing the fine Asylum +for Invalids and Convalescents which bears his name: has improved the +fiscal systems of the municipalities by bringing them to a modern basis, +and has secured special advantages in supplying them with light, water, +and other municipal necessities. + +Generally it further may be said that Guatemala owes to President +Estrada Cabrera: + +The rehabilitation of her railway system. + +The stability of the legal regimen. + +Important reforms in land holdings in the interest of the small land +owners. + +The institution of closer relations with all the nations of the world +and especially with the United States. + +The restoration of public credit. + +A satisfactory immigration policy. + +The re-establishment and reorganization of the public school system, and +a great variety of other measures which form a solid foundation for the +continued development of the country. + + +POPULAR EDUCATION PROMOTED. + +People in the United States who believe in the "Little Red School House" +as the basis of good citizenship cannot fail to appreciate how +thoroughly President Estrada Cabrera has made primary education a part +of his policy. In the midst of his many measures for the material +development of the country he never has lost sight of the moral +advancement which comes from the school. He believes in education also +as the very best means of creating and fostering the national patriotic +spirit. During his first term he published a decree relating especially +to the education of the youth of the country. He fixed the last Sunday +of October of each year for the celebration of a popular festival +throughout the Republic consecrated exclusively to commemorate the +education of the youth of the country and requiring that all the +directors, professors, teachers, and scholars of all the schools take +part in it. This was known as the Festival of Minerva. It is a +sentimental recognition of the value of education, and is the complement +of the practical steps which have been taken. One of his first measures +on coming into the presidency in 1898 was to decree the reopening of the +public schools. From that time he exerted himself constantly to elevate +their standing by providing them with the best facilities, by +reorganizing them in conformity with the most modern plans, and in a +word by encouraging their extension and their progress in every sense. + +[Illustration: PRESIDENT AND MEMBERS OF CABINET.] + +Besides the primary schools a system of higher education is supported, +and there are normal schools and various faculties such as those of law, +medicine, engineering, etc. Especial attention, however, has been given +to practical education, that is, the fitting of the common people for +their occupations. There are schools of commerce, of manual training, +and of agriculture, as well as an Institute especially for the native +Indians. On this subject of technical education Consul General of the +United States Winslow in a special report said: + + + "There are few villages in the country where there are no schools. + In the city of Guatemala of late much attention has been given to + education, under the direction of President Manuel Estrada Cabrera, + who has done more along this line than any of his predecessors. + There are in the city of Guatemala 25 public schools, 8 institutes, + and 3 colleges. + + "President Estrada Cabrera has given much attention to his pet + scheme of establishing an industrial school for boys and girls at + his own personal expense, aided by several of the more progressive + citizens of Guatemala city, where the most improved methods of + instruction are to be employed. The President has engaged two able + educators from the United States, and proposes everything shall be + up-to-date. + + "The Boys' Industrial College is in charge of Prof. Y. C. Pilgrim, + a well-known educator of New Jersey, assisted by Professor + Bellingham and wife, who have charge of the languages, and + Professor Lorenzo de Clairmont, who instructs in gymnastics and + military tactics. These are assisted by several native teachers. + The boys are selected from the best families in the Republic and + are limited to 50, and are all required to live in the dormitory. + The college buildings are situated in a tract of land of about 60 + acres, convenient to the city, with a campus where the boys are to + be instructed in the modern sports and military tactics as taught + at West Point, and all orders are to be given in the English + language. + + "The Girls' Industrial School is in charge of Miss Alice Dufour, a + prominent educator of New York City, assisted by several native + instructors. This institution is located in the city and is to be + conducted on the same high plan as the boys' college. The idea is + to teach the principles on which the American home is founded. + + "President Estrada Cabrera means these institutions shall be the + nucleus around which a solid and up-to-date system of education + shall be built for this Republic. It is his ambition to firmly + establish an educational system modeled after that in use in the + United States, where the watchword shall be industry, promptness, + and honesty." + + +The New York _Tribune_ in a Washington dispatch had this to say on the +same subject: + + + "American teachers who went to Guatemala some time ago at the + request of the government are sending back interesting accounts of + the progress which that country is making in adopting the + educational methods that obtain in the United States. The + newspapers also have a good deal to say on the subject. President + Estrada Cabrera, who is a progressive man, for several years has + had the ambition to give a new turn to public instruction, and to + make it practical after the system of the United States. His idea + is that the youth of the Latin-American countries are especially in + need of newer methods, and of getting away from the metaphysical + systems which created a large class of professional men, for whom + there was no room and who were a drawback to material progress. + + "Some time ago President Estrada Cabrera established what was + called the practical school, which combined technical instruction + and manual training. A few weeks ago exercises were held at the + Escuela Practica, or technical school, and it is concerning this + that the New York teachers have written so encouragingly. The + President delivered an address on the value of work and of + developing through the schools an aptitude for everyday life. + Heretofore he said there had been too much theory and too much that + was purely professional in the system followed. Now that the + aspiration of many years had been realized he was hopeful that the + experiment would be beneficial in giving a new direction to the + national spirit, and would result in the kind of business training + that would fit the Guatemalan youth for the activities of practical + life rather than incline them to the traditions of the past. Under + the direction of the President fields for farm experiments have + been established, and the youth are taught the care of horses and + other farm work, as well as the manual trades. There is special + provision made for athletic sports." + + +SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT EXPLAINED. + +The Government of Guatemala is republican--democratic and +representative--and the supreme power is exercised by three governmental +branches, each independent of the others, called "the legislative +power," "the executive power," and "the judicial power." + +The legislative power is vested in a National Assembly which consists of +a single house composed of one deputy for each 20,000 inhabitants or +fraction of that number exceeding 10,000. The deputies are elected by +popular vote for four years, but one-half of the Assembly is renewed +each two years so that each time that it meets it contains an adequate +number of experienced members. Annual sessions are held lasting two +months, beginning March 1, but they can be extended one month longer in +case of necessity. For the transaction of business during its recesses +the Assembly appoints seven of its members who form a body called "the +Permanent Commission." This commission, as well as the executive, can +call the Assembly to meet in extraordinary sessions. + +The executive power is exercised by the President of the Republic, who, +for the transaction of public business, appoints six Ministers or +Secretaries of State, who have charge of the portfolios of Foreign +Relations, Government and Justice, the Treasury and Public Credit, War, +Public Works, and Public Instruction. + +There is also a Council of State, a purely advisory body, which is +composed of the Cabinet Ministers and nine other members, of whom five +are appointed by the Assembly and four by the President. These +appointments are for two years. + +The judicial power is exercised by the courts and judges of the +Republic, organized as follows: + +The Supreme Court of Justice, which sits at the capital of Guatemala and +is composed of the President of the Judicial Power, four Magistrates, +and an Attorney (Fiscal). + +Six Courts or Tribunals of Appeals, composed of three Magistrates, of +whom one presides, and an Attorney (Fiscal). Three of these Courts sit +at the Capital and one in each of the capitals of the Departments of +Quezaltenango, Alta Verapaz, and Jalapa. The Magistrates and Attorneys +are elected, by popular vote. + +The Judges of the Courts of First Instance, of whom there are six in the +Capital, three in Quezaltenango, two in San Marcos, and one in each of +the remaining Departments of the Republic. These Judges are appointed by +the Executive from three names proposed by the Supreme Court of Justice. + +Finally, the Justices of the Peace who pronounce oral judgments and are +elected by the people of the districts in which they exercise their +functions. + +For the exercise of the political, civil, and military administration +of the country it is divided into twenty-two Departments, each of which +has a Governor (Jefe Politico) invested with the executive functions. +For the administration of the local affairs of each district there are +popularly elected Municipal Councils. The service of the members of the +Councils is for one year, is obligatory for the citizens of the +respective districts, and is not remunerated. + +The Constitution of the Republic gives to all those who live in the +country the most ample guaranties of liberty, equality, and security of +their persons, their honor, and their property; of freedom of movement +and of assembly, of professions, of industries, and of commerce; of the +right to dispose of their property, to address petitions to the +authorities and to defend their interests before them; of liberty of +conscience, inasmuch as there is no official religion; of the right to +freely express their opinions, whether by speech, or by writing, or by +means of the press, without being subject to censure; of liberty to give +or receive instruction, if they should so prefer, in private educational +establishments; of the right to have their residences, their property, +their correspondence, and other papers respected as inviolable; of the +right of _habeas corpus_; of liberty of defence in judicial proceedings, +etc. + +Primary instruction is obligatory, and that which is sustained by the +nation is secular and free. There is no imprisonment for debt. Marriage +is considered a simple civil contract; but those who desire can have it +solemnized in a religious form. Absolute divorce can be obtained in +cases defined by the law. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE SOIL AND ITS RICHES. + + +The soil of Guatemala is remarkable in the vast extent and great variety +of two classes of products which are unusual within the same degrees of +latitude, that is, it produces both tropical and temperate staples of +agriculture in great profusion. The soil grows coffee, sugar-cane, +cacao, bananas, tobacco, cotton, india rubber, vanilla, sarsaparilla, +and a long list of medicinal plants, while it likewise produces the +cereals, wheat and Indian corn, which are only found in temperate +regions, giving two and in some places three crops of these annually. +There are also endless kinds of valuable hardwood, mahogany, rosewood, +ebony, cedar and the like, which are especially tropical timber, and at +the same time pine and oak exist in the mountain regions of the +interior. Besides all this the grasses grown are especially adapted to +live stock, and cattle raising and dairying are very profitable +industries. + +The British Consul General in an official report to the Foreign Office +in London had this to say about the capabilities of the soil: + + + "The tropical situation of the country, the proximity of every + portion to the sea on both coasts, the diversity of altitude and + consequently of temperature, combine to make the agricultural + capabilities of Guatemala equal to any in the world. Every kind of + crop, from those of the tropical coast regions to those of the cold + highlands (the latter having a climate corresponding with that of + northern Europe in summer) may be raised. There are districts where + even four crops of maize (Indian corn) are obtained in one year. It + is a common theory that the manures are unnecessary, as the heavy + rains wash down the rich soils from the sides of the mountains and + fertilize the plains. The great secret is therefore for the + agriculturist to adapt his cultivation to the nature of the soil + and climate and his interest would be advanced by a judicious + rotation of crops." + + +A breezy description, though an accurate one, was given of the soil of +Guatemala by a correspondent of the Washington _Star_. Wrote this +correspondent: + + + "Instead of my own impressions of the country I would rather give + those of a North Carolina business man. He was taking the rest cure + by means of a sea voyage to San Francisco and deflected his + itinerary for a week's land journey. We traveled together to the + capital and also made a trip to the port of Champerico over the + railroad extension which has opened up new and untouched territory. + It was his first view of tropical lands except from the ship's + deck. + + "On landing at San José the North Carolina man looked with awe and + admiration as every tourist is bound to do on the dominating + volcano peaks Fuego and Agua, Fire and Water. But while he never + ceased to wonder at the richness of the scenery his practical + instincts asserted themselves and he punctuated the information + given him about climate, soil and products with keen observations. + He confessed that on the vessel he thought they were 'stringing' + him when they told him that the posts for the barbed wire fences + just grew, but when he saw countless miles of trees in straight + rows with the wire stretched along the trunks he paid his tribute + also to climate and soil. He knew that naturally trees don't grow + in straight rows and he found the explanation. The posts are poles + cut from the trees' branches and when stuck in the ground they + shoot up so rapidly that they soon are trees. + + "The North Carolina observer never got over his wonder at the soil. + The railroad cuts gave him a chance to see that it was not surface + richness and he easily grasped the explanation. The vegetation + grows to a certain height, then dies away, rots and forms fresh + layers of richness. This process going on for centuries has made + the fertility of the land inexhaustible. + + "The utility of volcanic eruptions was new to him and was explained + on the trip to Champerico. This is the great coffee region. It + comes within the sphere of influence of the volcano Santa Maria. + When Santa Maria was sprinkling both the sea and land with pumice + stone and ashes, on many of the fincas (plantations) there was just + enough of this lava soil after the rains had come and washed away + the surface of the deposit to renew the productiveness." + + +In another way an idea of the varied products of agricultural industry +can be had from an account given in the British Consular reports of a +model plantation. This plantation consisted of 3,000 acres. In a given +year it produced 1,200,000 pounds of coffee, 300,000 pounds of sugar, +300,000 bottles of the by-product of sugar known as aguardiente or cane +rum, 22,000 gallons of milk. Two thousand head of cattle were raised. On +this plantation from 900 to 1,300 laborers were employed. + + +COFFEE OF WORLD-WIDE FAME. + +As is well known, Guatemala's most valuable agricultural product is +coffee. The fame of Guatemala coffee is worldwide and it commands the +highest prices. The production in average years is about 70,500,000 +pounds, though in a recent year it exceeded 80,000,000 pounds. The most +productive regions are in the departments of Guatemala, Amatitlan, +Sacatepequez, Solola, Retalhuleu, Quezaltenango, San Marcos, Alta +Verapaz, Baja Verapaz, Chimaltenango, Santa Rosa and Escuintla. + +[Illustration: VISTA OF AGUNA PLANTATION.] + +The altitudes at which the coffee plant is most successfully cultivated +are between 1,500 feet and 5,000 feet above sea level, according to the +locality and quality of the soil. The temperature at which the greatest +productiveness is obtained varies from a minimum of 60° Fahrenheit to a +maximum of 90°. In the lowlands the trees have to be shaded in order to +prevent the leaves from being scorched by the heat. There is an +abundance of native trees which answers this purpose. Occasionally, too, +bananas are raised in conjunction with coffee since their broad leaves +furnish an excellent protection. + +In districts where the mean altitude is 4,500 feet a different sort of +protection is necessary in order to shelter the coffee leaves from the +northern winds which blow during the months of December, January, and +February. In these high altitudes the ranges of hills form the best +natural protection. To bring the coffee plant to full production from +five to seven years are required, though after two years the bush will +produce about two pounds of the berry annually. The coffee plants are +raised in nurseries and afterwards transplanted to the cafetales or +coffee plantations. The critical season for the crop is the blooming +period. A heavy rainfall while the trees are in flower will seriously +damage the plants by washing away the pollen and thus preventing +fructification. This period lasts three or four days when the blossoms +fall and the cherry or berry begins to appear. The cherry reaches +maturity in October and is ready for gathering and pulping, that is, for +the removal of the outer shell and pulp. After this process it is washed +and carried to dry, spread out in brick paved yards exposed to the sun. +The grain is known as _pergamino_, or shell coffee, after the removal of +the red pulp, while it retains the inner white or yellow parchment +covering. After this parchment is removed it is known as _oro_, clean +coffee, and this is the common commercial term. + +So many elements enter into the cost of planting and bringing to +maturity a coffee plantation that it is difficult to estimate the +expenditure necessary to ensure a given profit. Experienced coffee +growers are guided largely by their knowledge of the local conditions +and requirements. However, a reasonable amount of capital in the +beginning is necessary and many investors possessing the capital prefer +to buy fincas or plantations that are already producing. + +The government of Guatemala lays an export tax of one dollar in gold. +Germany takes the bulk of the Guatemala product, though Great Britain is +a large buyer and the United States is receiving larger quantities from +year to year. With the increased facilities for transportation there +would appear to be an excellent opportunity for dealers to make a +specialty of Guatemala coffee in the United States, for the article once +introduced would be sure to have an increased consumption. + + +SUGAR AND OTHER PROFITABLE PRODUCTS. + +In 1890 Guatemala was producing barely enough sugar for its own +consumption. In 1904 it exported 6,000,000 pounds to the United States. +New Orleans is the nearest market, though shipments also may be made to +Brooklyn. The product consists of white loaf sugar, panela or coarse +brown cakes, from which the cane rum is made, miel or molasses, and +mascabado, or inferior grades. The sugar cane is of excellent quality +and the production is abundant, especially along the hot coast +districts. The departments of Escuintla, Amatitlan, and Baja Verapaz are +the districts in which the largest areas are under cultivation. As a +rule the small sugar mills are crude and modern machinery has not been +introduced to a great extent, although the largest plantations are +already supplied with the latest improvements. With the introduction on +a larger scale of modern machinery and the latest processes the sugar +industry would be certain to afford satisfactory profits. + +Cacao of a very high quality is produced in Guatemala and the native +article commands much higher prices than that produced in other +countries and brought to Guatemala for sale. The productive regions are +the _tierras calientes_ or hot coast lands. The principal cacao +producing districts are Escuintla, Suchitepequez, Solola, and +Retalhuleu. The bean is most productive at an altitude of 800 to 2,000 +feet. In some cases the shrub produces a pound of beans every four +months and after reaching maturity it is said to produce without +interruption for one hundred years. + +Notwithstanding the superior quality of the Guatemala cacao the +industry has not been carried on systematically, possibly because five +or six years are required to secure the first crop. In the last year the +total output was only 34,000 pounds, but the steady demand for cacao and +the certainty of good prices justifies the investment of capital which +can await five or six years for the first returns. The gathering of the +cacao beans requires very little machinery and few laborers. Chiefly +care must be taken not to hurt the bean or almond when breaking the +fruit wherein they are contained. One day of fermentation must then be +given to them, after which they remain exposed to the sun for six or +eight days, when they are ready to be sent to the market. + +One of the most profitable of future industries in Guatemala undoubtedly +is that of banana culture. There are vast productive regions on the +Atlantic slope and these are certain to be cultivated since the building +of the Northern Railway insures opening up the lands by giving access to +the New Orleans market within the time that is necessary for gathering +and shipping the fruit. The annual production is now about 800,000 +bunches, of which one-half are consumed at home and the balance shipped +to the United States. It is estimated that within a year after the +Northern Railway is completed the shipments to the United States will +exceed 750,000 bunches per annum and will soon amount to 1,000,000 +bunches. + +Tobacco is produced in a number of districts and there is much suitable +soil for it, but up to this time it has been raised only for local +consumption. Rice is also produced in the hot coast lands. Cotton is +grown and experiments have shown that the Sea Island cotton thrives in +Guatemala. + + +RUBBER CULTIVATION AN INVITING FIELD. + +For investments of capital that is willing to wait returns there is no +more inviting field than the cultivation of india rubber, which grows +wild in Guatemala. Each year the demand for rubber increases and the +price rises. The coast regions where the wild tree flourishes are +especially adapted to the cultivation of the product. The subject has +been given very careful attention by the Guatemalan government, which +caused investigation to be made by scientists who were familiar with the +native agriculture. The result of these investigations has been +published from time to time. + +The wild gum tree is tall with smooth greenish white bark. The milk +which is the mercantile product is contained principally in the fibres +which are attached to the woody portion of the tree between it and the +bark. The milk contains about 60% of water and other substances, while +the remaining 40% represents the salable product. The climate most +appropriate for the growth of the rubber tree is that of the hot coast +lands at an altitude not exceeding 1,500 feet. The yield of the +cultivated rubber trees has been estimated as high as three pounds +yearly from the sixth year, but the best authorities do not think that +the trees should be tapped before the ninth year and then the grower +should be satisfied with an annual yield of two and a half to three +pounds of milk, which will insure one pound of rubber. + +An estimate of the cost and probable yield of a rubber plantation as +made by Señor Horta, a leading authority, was that a plantation of +100,000 trees would require ten caballerias (about 1,100 to 1,200 +acres), and would have cost after ten years about one dollar per tree. +This expense could in part be met by secondary cultivation. According to +the calculations one crop after ten years should produce double the +amount expended in that time. + +The government encourages the cultivation of rubber, a decree having +been issued in 1899 which provided that for every 20,000 rubber plants +of four years of age and planted after the date of the decree the owner +should receive one caballeria (112 acres) of uncultivated national land. +The government, however, does not endorse nor recommend the promotion of +rubber plantations by stock companies which seek chiefly to sell the +stock among small investors in the United States. All such schemes +should be carefully investigated before the shares are bought and the +leading facts in regard to rubber production, including the necessity of +a period of at least ten years for the successful development of a +plantation, should be kept in mind. + + +BOUNTY FOR HENNEQUEN. + +The soil of Guatemala in the opinion of experts is especially adapted to +the cultivation of fibre plants of which the most valuable is hennequen +or hemp. Maguey or wild hennequen grows in various localities, +particularly in the eastern districts, where there is a large area which +it is believed can be brought under profitable cultivation for +commercial purposes. President Estrada Cabrera, in order to encourage +the cultivation of hennequen, has provided that a bounty shall be paid +to the cultivators of the plant, the scale of payment being graduated +according to the size of the plantation. Since it takes from four to +five years for the plant to mature the cultivators are allowed to +receive one-half the bounty two years after the hennequen is planted and +the balance at the end of the four years. A bounty is also to be paid +for the exportation of each 100 pounds of hennequen and the machinery +necessary on the plantation is to be imported free of duty. As a further +inducement to engage in the cultivation of the fibre the natives who +produce hennequen are to be exempted from military service in a +proportion fixed relatively to the number of acres under cultivation. +This experiment with hennequen is especially important in view of the +fact that soil which is not suitable for coffee, sugar cane or cacao is +thought to be especially well adapted to this plant. + +The number of medicinal plants produced in Guatemala is infinite. One +scientist gives a list of 339, which includes many balsams and the +aromatic plants, such as sarsaparilla and vanilla. The conditions of +vanilla cultivation are similar to those in Mexico. The vine after five +years is in full bearing and will produce from 15 to 40 beans. It is +estimated that a five-acre vanilla plantation will yield sufficient +income to render its owner independent, but this is only by the most +careful attention in cultivation. + + +MANY VARIETIES OF VALUABLE WOOD. + +There are said to be 150 kinds of Guatemala wood which are commercially +valuable, and the number of species exceeds 400. The timber area +includes the littoral forests in a narrow belt along the Pacific and +Atlantic coasts; the humid forests mixed with the prairie fields which +cover the plains from the foot of the Andean Cordilleras to the Pacific; +the moist forests of the hot zone and the temperate zone found along the +foothills of the volcanic chain and in the northern and eastern parts of +the country; the humid forests of the cold zone; the pine and oak +forests in the upland plains; the savannas and chaparral consisting of +small trees and bushes; the savannas with pines along the Atlantic coast +and the savannas of the cold zone on the highest tablelands of the +mountain. + +In the report of the Intercontinental Railway Survey Lieutenant Hill +gives a list of trees found in southeastern Guatemala which is another +illustration of the varied timber resources of the country. The list is +as follows: + +Aconacaste, conacaste, guanacaste--a light brown wood rather soft and +resembling inferior walnut. + +Amarillo--yellowish, hard, plentiful, strong; lasts well in water or +ground; used for pillars and girders in native houses. + +Cedro--reddish, easily worked; used much for boards, not very strong, +warps easily. + +Caoba--mahogany. + +Chichipate--hard, fine-grained; used in wagon-making. + +Chiche--straight grained; lasts well above ground. + +Chico--straight grained; takes high polish. + +Granadillo--dark brown, strong, plentiful; good for construction. + +Guachipilin--good for construction. + +Guapinol--hard, resembles oak in texture. + +Jicaro--bears gourdlike fruit; plentiful on llanos, used in making +saddle-trees. + +Laurel--resembles chestnut; used for furniture. + +Madre cacao--hard, takes fine polish; good for posts. + +Mario or Palo Colorado--a fine wood somewhat like mahogany. + +Matilishuate--grows large and straight; used for wagon boxes. + +Mora--dyewood. + +Jocote de Fraile--handsome wood, takes high polish. + +Ronron--fine, hardwood, takes high polish. + +Tempisque--reddish, resembles mahogany in weight and texture. + +Volador--fine tree, tall, straight trunk; good for bridges and roofs. + +With such a vast wealth of timber the importance of the railway projects +which open up the forest regions and make the markets of the United +States and Europe accessible will be appreciated. + + +ENCOURAGEMENT TO LIVESTOCK INDUSTRIES. + +Cattle raising and dairy farming are among the most profitable +agricultural industries of Guatemala, while horse-breeding also can be +made to pay unusually well. The native horse is small but very strong +and is tireless. The race horses and others obtained through the +crossing with foreign breeds imported from the United States and from +Spain, England and South America have given most satisfactory results. + +Dairy farming especially in the vicinity of the cities yields large +dividends. The cattle are largely three-quarters or half-bred natives +and Holsteins and Durhams. The pure native cows give much richer milk +than the imported stock, but they yield a very small quantity. The milk +of the thoroughbred imported cows is thin, owing probably to the +unsuitable nature of the fodder, and thus the half-bred cows are the +most profitable. + +The highlands of the interior afford very fair grazing for cattle +throughout the year. The climate is mild and equable and the stock can +remain in the pastures from January till December, while no losses are +suffered from severe weather in winter. Most of the country is well +watered. The native mules are superior to the horses for long journeys +or heavy loads and as a rule they command higher prices. Pigs are raised +with little difficulty and fetch a high price, since pork is one of the +favorite foods on many of the plantations and in the villages inhabited +by Indians. The hogs are allowed to run loose and feed on nourishing +roots, acorns and maize. The sheep industry is capable of development at +the hands of experienced sheep-raisers. There are many flocks and the +quality of both the mutton and the wool is capable of improvement. + + +MINES AND MINING. + +The mineral riches of Guatemala, while not unknown, may be said to be +unexploited. Owing to the varied geological formations the belief both +of geologists and of practical miners is that they offer a promising +field for development. The minerals include quartz and gold, silver and +galenas, copper, coal and lignite, manganese, asbestos, graphite, +kaolin, opals, slate, alum, marble, silver, mica, iron, sulphur, lead. + +The mining archives of colonial days show that between the years 1627 +and 1820 more than 1,300 mines of gold, silver, lead, copper, tin, iron, +and one of quicksilver, were discovered and worked, and were a source of +great revenue both to the Church and the State. History records that +during the earliest Spanish occupancy of that country enormous +quantities of gold and silver were taken from those mines. At one time +more than one hundred and fifty very rich mines were worked there. From +one group the mint of Guatemala coined silver to the amount of +$43,000,000, besides what was shipped directly to Europe. + +[Illustration: BRIDGE OVER MOTAGUA RIVER.] + +In an official report made by the Director of the chemical laboratory to +the Minister of Finance these statements are made, based on samples that +had been submitted for analysis and which were obtained for the most +part in the eastern region of the country. + + + "Zinc, copper, lead, and silver predominate in these regions, + being generally found in argentiferous blends and galenas, and + sometimes both metals in conjunction with carbonates of copper. The + proportion of the lead varies from 20 to 25% in the galenas and the + blends contain from 15 to 40% of zinc. + + "The proportion of silver varies from 200 grammes to 7 kilos (17 + pounds), allowing one to calculate on an average of from 2 to 3 + kilos. The beds extend to the tablelands on which the capital is + situated, stretching as far as the Department of Jalapa, where the + lead disappears sometimes completely, the silver being found alone. + The veins stretch to the valley of the Motagua, disappearing for + some time on the left bank of that river and reappearing again to + the north of Solamá, following a straight line to Huehuetenango, + although the quantity of silver in this region is less than in the + beds in the southeast of the Republic. + + "Copper, one of the metals which is most abundant in the country, + is generally found in oxicarbonate in beds of sediment. It appears + in the neighborhood of the capital and various other points. These + beds continue up to the Mexican frontier along the banks of the + river Salega and round the town of Cuilco, but the nature of the + metal changes little by little, passing from the carbonates to + oxisulphates mixed with iron and soon the copper disappears + altogether. In the eastern region abundant deposits of carbonates + of copper are found principally in the Department of Chiquimula, + mixed in many cases with other metals such as zinc, lead, and + silver. + + "Lignite of excellent quality is found in beds near the Atlantic + coast, a very great consideration in the development of mineral + industries." + + +Captain Rae of the United States, who spent several years in Guatemala +and who wrote authoritatively concerning the mineral resources of the +country, said that he had found near the northwestern frontier large +quantities of low grade gold sulphuret ores and also rich lead ores +carrying a small percentage of silver as well as some good copper +carbonates. He said that the lead ores were of the best clean +carbonates, easily smelted by fuel alone, and had been rudely exploited +principally for the lead they contained. These silver lead mines of low +grades of silver were in the vicinity of Chiantla, and the belt +extended, he said, northwest, breaking out again in heavy deposits +bearing silver from $12 to $40 a ton and lead 80%. + +Captain Rae gave the following further details: + + + "Still further east in the Lacodor country are found immense + deposits of the same character of ore, which seemed to lie as if + thrown up in volcanic upheavals. In some places the lead is found + in small nuggets entirely pure. Large deposits of black lead or + plumbago exist both north and south of Huehuetenango of a good + class and ready for commerce. + + "Auriferous gravel beds are found at different points on the Rio + Grande in the Department of Baja Verapaz which prospect well for + heavy course gold. The working of these beds is confined to the + immediate river banks, done by the natives in a very rude manner, + merely scooping out the choicest streaks of goldbearing gravel and + washing it in wooden bowls. These beds seem to be well defined and + extend back through the flats to the hills. + + "Also some gold formation is found along the Rio Plátanos and Vacas + two affluents of the Rio Grande that flow into it from the south + side and nearly opposite to one of these goldbearing gravel beds. + Further down the river on the north mountain range there exists + asbestos in several places and from a surface prospect the texture + is of a good variety and free from all foreign substances varying + in color from deep gray to snowy white, the fibres measuring as + much as 6 inches in length. + + "In the Department of Izabal lying on the Atlantic or gulf coast, + on the lower waters of the Motagua and Polichis rivers, there + exists rich and extensive beds of gold placers which have been + worked for several years in a primitive way and have yielded a + large amount of gold dust. + + "In the foothills of Livingston stone coal has been found of the + lignite variety and said to make good combustible. On the opposite + side of the Gulf of Dulce from the coal deposits are large deposits + of magnetic iron ores, ranging from 60 to 70 per cent. of iron. + These deposits lie only a few leagues from water communication on + the Gulf and also close to the Northern Railway." + + +The following description of the various mineral districts is from _The +Bristol Board of Trade journal_: + + + "The principal known mining districts of Guatemala are situated on + the eastern boundary, both to the north and also the south, in the + Departments of Chiquimula and Izabal, adjoining the Republic of + Honduras and that of Salvador. These districts are mountainous, + and, owing to their complete isolation and lack of communication + with the other parts of the Republic and the difficulty of + procuring supplies, there being at the moment very few roads, this + part is not generally known to the outer world. + + "On the western boundary, in the Department of Huehuetenango and + near to Chiantla, there are said to be very rich copper mines, + similar to those of Chiapas, in Mexico. These are now being + explored, but so far no copper has been found, though the district + is rich in lead and a small percentage of silver. The assays that + have come to hand show 56 per cent. of lead and 40 ounces per ton + of silver. In many other parts of the Republic mines have been + discovered and mining rights secured, such as at San Cristobal and + Aguil, in the Department of Alta Verapaz; near Rabinal and Pichec, + in Baja Verapaz; at San Pedro, in the Department of Guatemala; also + at Mataquescuintla, in the mines of Algeria and Rosario, in the + Department of Santa Rosa; at Zalcuapa and Joyabaj, on the Rio + Grande, in the Department of El Quiche; but the only mines that + have recently been worked, and which have given and are giving fair + results, are those of Quebradas de Oro, on the River Bobos, in the + Department of Izabal, where gold has been washed in paying + quantities. + + "The district where mines have been denounced (pre-empted) and in + some instances worked, lies between the Rio de Concepcion to the + north and the Rio de las Minas to the south; the mining district + alluded to is nearly due east of Los Sillones, on the finca of San + José. This estate is in the Department of Chiquimula, and a society + was formed under the name of Société Horta y Cia., which obtained + mining rights from the Government for a term of fifteen years with + the right to import free of duty all material, machinery, and + necessary appliances. But until the present time very little has + been done, owing to the isolated position of these mines and the + difficulty of establishing communication, though the construction + of a small line, which might connect with the Guatemala or Northern + Railway at Chiquimula, has been under consideration, but the funds + for the carrying out of this project have, it is understood, been + lacking. This, if built, would do away with the transportation + difficulty." + + +There is no difficulty in the work of mining in Guatemala since the +climate in the mining regions is temperate and healthful. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +TRADE AND MARKETS. + + +Guatemala, because of its nearness, is an unusually good market for the +products of the United States. With the increase in the transportation +facilities which will result from railway building and other +transportation enterprises that will add to the ocean shipping +facilities the business should increase greatly if merchants and +manufacturers in the United States choose to take advantage of it. + +Official support is given this view by the reports of the American +Consuls in Guatemala. Consul General Winslow has frequently called +attention to the advantages which may be obtained. In one report he +stated that large quantities of groceries, flour, potatoes, shoes, +drygoods, and clothing come from the United States, but Germany and +England seem to have the lead in machinery and hardware. There is surely +a fine opening in these latter lines for exporters of the United States, +but they must be in position to push their goods personally, to give +longer credits, and to take more pains with packing. In all, it is safe +to say, there are $8,000,000 of American capital invested in Guatemala +and there is an opening for much more, if it is backed by the right kind +of management. + +In a report, to the British Foreign Office in 1905 Mr. Hervey, the +English Consul, stated that as far as actual volume of business was +concerned, as shown in the imports and exports, there appeared to have +been a distinct improvement in the general trade of the country compared +with immediately preceding years. The imports were the largest for the +past seven years. The revenue of the country showed a great improvement +all around, being, in fact, nearly double that of 1903, the most +important increases being shown in import and export duties, the former +benefiting by the 50 per cent. of their total payable in gold, and the +latter by the tax of $1 gold per quintal which has been collected +throughout the year. + +The outlook for the future was, the report said, more favorable than it +had been for many years. The completion of the Guatemala Northern +Railway would shorten the distance from Europe and the United States and +promote trade. Already German and British steamers were calling at +Puerto Barrios in addition to those of the United Fruit Company. The +greater steadiness of exchange and the fall in the gold premium were +further factors of importance in restoring confidence. With continued +peace, and with it the prospect of increased labor facilities, so that +the agricultural and mineral wealth to be won from the soil may attain +to its fullest development, brighter days were dawning for Guatemala. + + +ARTICLES BROUGHT FROM OTHER COUNTRIES. + +A general statement regarding the articles which Guatemala buys abroad +and which therefore are of interest to exporters is as follows: + +The principal imports consist of drygoods, almost exclusively cotton +manufactures, brought from Great Britain, the United States, and +Germany. In this branch British manufacture commands the market, the +imports from the United States and Germany being relatively small. The +more important articles are gray cloths; bleached shirtings, 7-8 and 9-8 +prints; fancy cloths; gray, white, and blue drills; colored drills; +handkerchiefs; gray and dyed yarns; Turkey red yarns; sewing cottons; +trimmings; cotton blankets, etc. Of these goods about 75 per cent. are +of British origin, 15 per cent. American, and 10 per cent. German. +American manufacturers compete chiefly in drills, denims, blankets, +prints, gray cloths, and bleached shirtings, while German goods imported +consist chiefly of drills, prints, Turkey red yarns, blankets, and +trimmings. + +Woolen goods are not in very great demand; the principal lines are +blankets, shawls, braids, hats, Berlin wool, and but few piece goods. + +Hats are imported mostly from the United States, Germany, and only a few +from the United Kingdom; shawls from Germany, principally; piece goods +from Germany, France, and the United Kingdom. + +Silks are not in demand, excepting floss silks imported from China, +ribbons from Switzerland, France, and Germany. Regarding hardware +generally, approximately 50 per cent. is imported from Germany, 30 per +cent. from the United States, and 20 per cent. from the United Kingdom. + +The principal imports from the United States consist of machetes, axes, +and hoes, besides tools generally of the better classes, corn mills, +plows, sewing machinery, outfits for building purposes, saws, barbed +wire, files, screws, cutlery, ropes, brushes, enameled goods, paints, +and varnishes and breadstuffs. + +The imports from the United Kingdom are chiefly composed of +galvanized-iron sheets, galvanized-iron goods, coffee machinery, copper +sheets, tin goods, machetes, hoes, sickles, picks, pickaxes, saltpeter, +pans (used on sugar plantations), iron sheets, saws, padlocks, cutlery, +saddlery, bits, spurs, brass valves and cocks, pottery, cartridges, also +preserves and biscuits. + +From Germany are brought all kinds of cheap tools, machinery, sewing +machines, cutlery, machetes, bar iron, enameled goods, pottery, locks, +screws, nails, window glass, brushes, paper, matches, stearin and +ceresin, part of these goods being also brought from Belgium and the +Netherlands, while France ships tools for shoemakers' and saddlers' use. + +The articles which Guatemala buys in exchange for her coffee, sugar, +fruits, woods and other products in the customs classification are +divided into three groups; that is, articles of prime necessity, +articles of luxury or convenience, and articles for the industries. + +The first and most important group includes cotton and woolen goods, +wheat flour, rice, corn, potatoes, salt, wax and stearine candles, +matches, soap, petroleum, glass and earthenware, and kitchen hardware. + +The second group covers the finer grade of woolens, silks, mineral +waters, liquors, preserves in cans, manufactured tobacco, glassware, +porcelain, toys, musical instruments, perfumery, etc. + +The third group consists of coal, woodworking machinery, cured hides, +raw cotton, sacks, lubricating oils, farm implements and a variety of +machinery. + + +CLASS OF IMPORTS FROM THE UNITED STATES. + +The shipments with which up to this time the United States has been most +successful in furnishing Guatemala can be understood from a summary of +the articles sent out under a consular invoice from various ports. The +exportations from the port of New Orleans during a recent year were as +follows: + + + NAME OF ARTICLES. VALUE. + Linseed oil $168 + Petroleum, etc. 2,534 + Tar 255 + Live animals 5,447 + Rice 974 + Empty barrels 116 + Coal 185 + Cement 422 + Cistern materials 648 + Dynamite 249 + Drugs 1,972 + Hardware 19,468 + Cotton goods 45,733 + Iron bars 338 + Wheat flour 15,817 + Surgical instruments 281 + Locomotives 7,465 + Earthenware 1,122 + Manufactured woods, railroad ties, etc. 55,772 + Indian corn 16,335 + Malt 474 + Cable rope 1,874 + Gentlemen's furnishings 2,724 + Gasolene motors 285 + Furniture 657 + Umbrellas 444 + Provisions 23,127 + Bridge material 18,794 + Salt 2,136 + Hats 452 + Whiskey 978 + Shoes 1,531 + + +From the port of Mobile shipments were as follows: + + + Wheat flour $10,196 + Cotton goods 9,916 + Canned meats 2,108 + Cornmeal 1,316 + Hardware 804 + Alimentary conserves 777 + Butter 676 + Beer in bottles 572 + Petroleum 523 + Vegetables 507 + Coal 420 + Hay 405 + Dried fish 376 + Footwear 362 + Stearine candles 317 + Matches 300 + Condensed milk 238 + Soap 228 + Lard 206 + Fruit preserves 204 + Cheese 173 + Rice 168 + Miscellaneous food products 1,700 + + +The exports from New York, which average about $75,000 per month, are +composed chiefly of the following articles: + + + Galvanized wire Lubricating oil + Alimentary articles Electrical equipments + Betum Iron pipes + Glassware Cured hides + Beer Drugs + Photographic material Hardware + Cotton goods Agricultural implements + Soap Jewelry + Earthenware Sewing machines + Railway material Medicines + Typewriters Miscellaneous machinery + Plated goods Perfumery + Paper Petroleum + Watches Weighing scales + Hats Whiskey + Chintz Leather ware + + +From the port of San Francisco the annual shipments amount to +approximately $1,000,000. The principal articles are flour, wheat, hops, +corn, barley, oats, cotton, furniture, machinery, beers, wines, and +whiskies. The articles imported at San Francisco are chiefly coffee, +sugar, cacao, rubber, hides and lumber. + + +HOW THE COMMERCE IS DIVIDED. + +While the United States has a fair share of the trade the proportion is +not as large as it might be if systematic efforts were made. In the last +year for which statistics are available the foreign commerce of +Guatemala amounted to $12,593,000, of which $5,041,000 was imports and +$7,552,000 exports. Germany, which takes the bulk of the coffee crop, is +the largest consumer. In the year quoted it took 53.79% of the total +exportations from Guatemala North America (chiefly United States) +25.86%. England, 15.37%, and France 2.4%. + +The exportation of the various countries to Guatemala in percentage +terms was as follows: United States 36.59%; England, 22.62%; Germany, +19.97%; France, 9.21%; South America, 2.82%; Central America, 1.83%; +Mexico, 1.69%; Spain, 1.54%; Italy, 1.32%; Belgium and Holland, 1.27%; +other countries, 1.14%. + +In detail the value of the goods imported by Guatemala in the given +year was: from Germany, $1,019,000; United States, $1,442,000; England, +$1,038,000; France, $175,000; Belgium, $114,000. No other country except +the above exported to Guatemala goods exceeding $100,000 in value. Of +the exports from Guatemala, chiefly coffee, as previously stated, +Germany took $3,508,000; the United States $2,292,000; England, +$1,282,000. + +President Estrada Cabrera in his annual message commented on the balance +of trade in favor of Guatemala and expressed himself very hopefully +concerning the measures of internal development which could be carried +on while the conditions of foreign commerce were so satisfactory. + +Since a portion of the revenue of Guatemala is raised from the export +tax on coffee it is possible to maintain a very moderate schedule of +import duties and this is done. The average duty on the group of +articles described under the heading of prime necessity is 23.67% _ad +valorem_. On the second group 30.84% and on the third group 7.60%. The +duties are equitably distributed so as to bear lightly on everything +that enters into the industrial upbuilding of the country. Moreover, +special concessions are sometimes made on material for railway and other +enterprises which enter into the national development. + +The general rules regarding the application of the tariff are very +clear. They are formulated with a view to saving annoyance to shippers +and are specific enough to avoid uncertainty. Import duties are not +high. The list of articles which it is prohibited to import is a short +one. + +The charges for invoices on shipments to Guatemala are as follows: + + + Ship's manifest $10.00. + Validating invoices of from $1 to $100 7.00. + " " " 100 " 500 10.00. + " " " 501 " 1000 14.00. + " " " 1001 " 3000 16.00. + " " " 3001 " 6000 20.00. + + +For each additional $1000 the Consuls will collect $2. + +The government officials of Guatemala and the merchants gave hearty +support to the project of an exposition ship or floating exposition +which was undertaken on the Pacific coast in order to display American +products and manufactures and at the same time familiarize American +firms with the products of other countries. + + +EXCHANGE AND BANKS. + +In the conduct of its foreign commerce reasonably long credits are +required by the merchants of Guatemala, but always under fixed +conditions. When the coffee crop is shipped bills on Europe and on New +York can always be procured at reasonable exchange and the obligations +be met in this manner. Since the balance of trade is in favor of +Guatemala there is always the certainty of funds for exchange. + +Under President Estrada Cabrera's administration the banks of the +country are subject to a regulation somewhat similar to the national +banks of the United States. Various decrees have been issued governing +the emission of banknotes. The latest decree institutes a special bank +examination project and requires all the financial institutions to give +an account of their condition and operations to this Department. + +The following statistics as to the leading banks of Guatemala have been +compiled from recent reports: + + +GUATEMALAN BANK (BANCO DE GUATEMALA). + + Capital subscribed and totally paid $2,500,000 00 + Reserve fund 655,000 00 + Contingent fund 292,208 67 + Fund available for dividends 200,000 00 + + Manager: Carlos Gallusser. + + +OCCIDENTAL BANK (BANCO DE OCCIDENTE). + + Capital authorized $2,000,000 00 + Capital paid 1,650,000 00 + Reserve fund 1,200,000 00 + Contingent fund 1,200,000 00 + + Manager: Rufino Ibarguen. + + +INTERNATIONAL BANK (BANCO INTERNACIONAL). + + Capital subscribed and totally paid $2,000,000 00 + Reserve fund 1,507,000 00 + Contingent fund 281,918 76 + + Manager: Carlos B. Pullin. + + +COLUMBIAN BANK (BANCO COLOMBIANO). + + Capital paid $1,776,000 00 + Reserve fund 797,747 94 + Sinking fund 454,189 84 + Fund available for dividends 69,227 74 + + Director: F. L. de Villa. + + +AMERICAN BANK (BANCO AMERICANO). + + Capital authorized $1,200,000 00 + + Manager: A. Beckford. + + +AGRICULTURAL MORTGAGE BANK (BANCO AGRICOLA-HIPOTECARIO). + + Capital authorized $12,000,000 00 + + Manager: A. Prentice. + + +All these are banks of emission and discount with headquarters in +Guatemala City and with branches in the other principal cities of the +departments. They also to some degree supply the place of mercantile +agencies and report financial standing of individuals, firms and +companies upon solicitation. + +It is known to be the great ambition of President Estrada Cabrera to +place the finances of Guatemala on a solid basis during his present +term. The rate of exchange under the stability now afforded and the +improved industrial and commercial conditions has been steadily falling. + +A final word concerning the opportunities for American enterprise is +convincing when it comes from official sources. In one of his reports +Consul General Winslow said: + + + "During the past few months the exporters of the United States have + been doing some effective work in this Republic. There have been + several commercial travelers here studying the conditions and + taking sample orders. Many others have been asking for information + from this Consulate-General, which has been able to give valuable + information. If this field is properly worked and sufficiently long + credit is given, practically nothing but American goods need be + found in the markets of Guatemala, for they are generally conceded + to be the best. This market is worth cultivating, for the next few + years will see great development here. Everything points that way, + and the natural resources are great. The opening up of the new + railroad to the Atlantic coast at Puerto Barrios will do wonders + for the country. More attention is being paid to the packing of + goods shipped to this country. It is an important matter and cannot + have too much attention on the part of exporters. Packages should + be very firmly nailed and bound by band iron, so they would be + difficult to open, as there is much complaint about goods being + stolen from boxes in transit. I have had several compliments of + late from the custom officers for the way shipments of American + goods have come packed. It will pay exporters to pack well + everything they ship. Dollars spent in this line will bring + hundreds in profits. This is especially true for Central American + ports." + + +Supplementary to the above was a report from Vice-Consul General Owen in +which these observations were made: + + + "The following drygoods of American manufacture are becoming quite + popular here: Brown cotton, all grades; cotton duck, Lindale, up to + 6 ounces; light domestics; long cloth; gingham; cotton drill, + checks and stripes (cheviot); blue and brown cotton drill; fancy + calicoes and lawns; cotton ware, all colors. The piece of 24 yards + is the most popular, although cotton cheviots, gingham, etc., come + put up in larger pieces. Dress patterns in lawn and calico are + frequently imported. + + "It must be borne in mind that the importers of this Republic are + for the greater part Germans, and their interest and inclination + lead them to trade with the fatherland. England also is preferred + over the United States, possibly because Guatemala merchants can + more easily identify themselves in England and get better credits. + American goods therefore are imported only when their quality + places them so far ahead of the European article that the merchant + is almost compelled to have them in stock. The American + manufacturers should become better acquainted with this trade, + ascertain who are worthy of credit, and extend it. The long voyage + and delay _en route_ compel the importer to ask long credits. It is + sometimes two or three months after shipments destined for this + city leave the manufacturer before they can be displayed in the + store of the importer. The custom duty on about all cotton goods is + collected on gross weight of the package. Great care should be + taken with invoices for custom-house purposes; the goods must be + described in exact phraseology of Guatemala custom tariff." + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +CLIMATE AND IMMIGRATION. + + +The population of Guatemala according to the general census of the +Republic taken at the beginning of 1904 was 1,842,000. This was the +actual enumeration, but as there were many cases in which a complete +account was not possible the inhabitants probably number 2,000,000. Of +those enumerated by races 750,615 were Ladinos, and 1,091,519 were of +the aboriginal race. The Ladinos are the descendants of the white race +and of a mixture of European and Indian. The Indian population is +principally engaged in farming and in small commercial enterprises in +the interior. The Ladinos are much more energetic. The natives of the +high and cold regions are the most vigorous. + +For many years it has been the aim of the Guatemalan government to +attract foreign immigration. Under President Estrada Cabrera's +administration systematic measures for this purpose have been taken and +the policy of encouraging immigrants and colonists, especially from the +United States, has become a settled one. Practically one-half the +fertile territory is yet uncultivated for want of tenants and there are +many agricultural industries which require a very small amount of +capital while they assure independence to those who follow them. + +The first question asked is whether the natives of the temperate +regions, Europeans and North Americans, can live and work in the +climate. The answer is that there are large areas suitable for them +where they may engage in coffee-growing, dairying, stock-raising and +similar occupations. + +The districts known as the Highlands or "Los Altos" are at an average +elevation of 5,000 feet and comprise some of the most inviting sections +of Guatemala. The uplands include Quezaltenango, Solola, Quiche, +Huehuetenango, Totonicapam, and San Marcos. + + +THE THREE ZONES. + +Usually in describing the country it is divided into three zones. The +_tierra caliente_, or hot lands, comprise the coast of the Atlantic and +the Pacific ocean. + +The _tierra templada_, or temperate zone, covers the central plains +which range from 2,000 to 5,000 feet above the sea level. + +The _tierra fria_, or cold zone, comprises the highlands as noted above. + +The year is divided into two seasons, the winter or rainy season lasting +from May till October, and the dry season. The hottest months are March +and April and the coldest ones December and January. Except along the +coast the average temperature throughout the year is about 72° +Fahrenheit. The climate on the coast is rendered endurable by the +refreshing sea breezes which blow for several hours every day. Many +people who live in the uplands in the rarefied atmosphere find it +agreeable and beneficial to their health to spend a few weeks every +season on the coast lands. The climate would be hot and moist except for +the variations caused by the mountains which oppose themselves not only +to the prevailing winds but also in rainfalls to the humidity of the +air. The winds are from the east and north, although along the Pacific +coast there are southern and southwestern winds at certain times in the +year. In regard to rainfall the general rule is that the regions +confronting the moist winds from the ocean have abundant precipitation +while those defended by mountain ranges from the sea winds are dry. + +The climate taking the country as a whole is an unusually healthy one. +Fevers are not common and when they exist are confined to the warm and +humid coast regions. No peculiar climatic disease exists in Guatemala +and the country rarely suffers from epidemics. This is largely due to +the strict sanitary measures which are enforced by the government. + + +A POETICAL AND PRACTICAL DESCRIPTION. + +The following account of the climate in popular language is given by a +well-known authority: + + + "The territory of the Republic belongs to the torrid zone comprised + among the intertropical countries which are exempt from the + rigorous winters of the countries of Europe, North and South + America, and the Far East. The vegetation which droops in the dry + season recovers a marvelous exuberance in the season of the rains. + In every part it is encountered then rehabited in the most splendid + garb of nature. The tropical countries at this period certainly are + the motherland of all the plants which are cultivated throughout + the world when as in the case of our Republic there are hot, + temperate and cold zones in which the vegetation is perpetual and + flourishes in the regions which possess perennial springs of + flowing water to moisten the cultivated lands in the season of the + drouths. + + "The knowledge of the climates is of the highest importance for the + agriculturist. It is his guide in the experiments for acclimatizing + exotic plants which he seeks to introduce into his properties. + + "The climate of a locality varies through the background of the + mountains, through its sloping direction, its nearness to the sea, + to the lakes, and to the selvas; through the direction and the + forces of the periodical winds. + + "Setting out from the low coastlands and ascending to the regions + of the Altos or highlands, the naturalist admires successively the + exuberant vegetation of the tropics and that of the cold countries. + + "On account of the topography of the territory we have in the + different zones of the Republic different climates characterized by + our two seasons--that of the rains, our winter, and that of the + dryness, our summer; characterized too by the intensity of the heat + in the low zones of the coasts and by the crisp cold in the high + plateaus of our mountains; by the force and duration of the + periodic winds of the Northwest which in certain regions of the + Republic blow with a violence harmful to agriculture. + + "The temperature in the low zones fluctuates between 26° and 35° + centigrade, averaging 28°. In the zones ranging from 3,000 to 5,000 + feet above sea level the temperature fluctuates between 16° and + 24°, the average being 20° to 22° centigrade. In the high zones or + cold lands the temperature varies from 8° to 15°, the medium being + 12° or 13°. In these zones from December to the end of March the + temperature drops during the night to 1° centigrade and other times + to 3° or 4°. + + "The rains commence in May or June and continue until the middle of + November. They are most violent from July to October. In the months + of September and October there are sometimes storms and copious + rains which last almost continuously from one to two weeks. + + "Heavy dews are numerous and at times very copious in the summer in + the low zones close to the sea, the lakes and the big marshes and + also in the higher zones through the condensation of the vapors + which absorb the sun's rays and become more condensed on reaching + the colder regions of the atmosphere. + + "The northeast winds are periodical and blow almost without + interruption throughout the summer and with great violence on the + coasts of the north and in the eastern sections of the country. The + winds on the south coast are much milder and those in the western + sections are insignificant. + + "Under this drouthlike action the vegetation withers in the hot and + dry zones. It flourishes most in the districts which possess + perennial springs of running water for fertilizing. + + "In the season of the rains there are strong hurricanes of southern + winds which cause damage to agriculture, but happily they are not + frequent. + + "From the description of the varied climates of the Republic it + will be seen that they are adapted to the cultivation of the + richest tropical plants and for all the agricultural and industrial + produce which is cultivated in the cold and temperate zones of the + entire world. + + "Besides, its vegetative season is one of perpetual cultivation, + and in the plantations which possess water for irrigating the + cultivated lands three crops a year can be raised in the hot zones + as well as the temperate regions, and two crops of the cereals, + wheat and Indian corn, in the cold regions; that is to say, the + feeding of 30,000,000 inhabitants is possible besides fruits for a + very extensive exportation." + + +AIDS TO AGRICULTURE. + +In a country so largely agricultural as Guatemala is the measures for +the encouragement of farming may be taken as a means of judging the +interest shown by the government. On this point President Estrada +Cabrera in a recent message said: + + + "Agriculture as the prime factor of our richness has been the + object of special attention during the last seven years of my + administration. In order to broaden and improve it there has been + established in the capital the General Department of Agriculture + and in the districts and municipalities Boards for the same + purpose. This Department has been authorized to publish a + periodical _The Bulletin of Agriculture_ which is given over + exclusively to important farming studies. Seeds and plants have + been brought from other countries and distributed among our farmers + in order to establish new sources of production. Strict orders have + been issued to secure the cultivation of the largest areas possible + and also for establishing common seed grounds. Regulations have + been made for the exploitation of rubber. In every possible manner + the importation of farm tools and agricultural machinery has been + facilitated. Contracts have been made for the exploitation of the + woods in the forests of the north. Schools of agriculture have been + created in order to further the study of these subjects by the + issue of special bulletins under the direction of the Department of + Agriculture." + + +[Illustration: STREET IN ESCUINTLA.] + + +LEADING POINTS OF IMMIGRATION LAW. + +A general immigration law was passed several years ago which has been +supplemented by other laws since that time. At the outset immigration +contracts with the Chinese are prohibited and the latter are not to be +accepted as immigrants. The purpose of this is to insure white +immigration and to prevent cheap coolie labor of a temporary character +interfering with settlers who wish to establish themselves permanently. +Immigrants are described as those foreigners having a profession, +occupation or trade, whether day laborers, artisans, workingmen in +factories, farmers or professors, who give up their own homes to come +and settle in Guatemala and accept their transportation to be paid +either by the Guatemalan government or by an immigration company. +Immigrants also include the foreigners whose transportation is not paid +by the government or by private companies. The wearing apparel and +household furniture, tools, domestic animals and other possessions of +immigrants are entered at the custom-house free of duty. + +An important provision authorizes the government to grant gratuitously +to immigrants lots of public lands in certain districts provided that +the immigrants bind themselves to cultivate within two years the third +part of the land granted. For this purpose zones of tillable land are +set apart in the districts named. + +Immigrants are exempted for a period of four years after their arrival +from service in the construction or repair of the public roads and from +the payment of municipal taxes. They are also exempted from military +service except in the case of foreign war. They enjoy all the rights and +privileges granted by law to Guatemalan citizens. + + +PUBLIC LANDS FOR SETTLERS. + +Under a general law a body of official engineers was created for +surveying and distributing the uncultivated public lands and fixing the +prices therefor. The price varies according to the nature of the land, +whether it is for grazing, raising cereals; whether capable of raising +sugar, banana, etc.; whether adapted to coffee and cotton, or whether it +contains forests. Public lands may also be granted to immigrants +gratuitously. Information on these points can be had through +correspondence with the Department of Agriculture called "Dirección +General de Agricultura," in Guatemala City. + +President Estrada Cabrera's land policy has been directed especially to +prevent great areas from being kept out of cultivation. He has dictated +many measures with the purpose of breaking up the huge estates that +often are uncultivated for want of capital and making them productive +through the encouragement of small capitalists or farmers. + +The general system of highways and cart roads as well as of the +railroads has been devised for this purpose. + +With regard to colonization and immigration the policy of securing the +benefit of the favored soil to settlers has been indicated in the +correspondence with various companies and individuals. In a report by +the Director of Agriculture he declared that immigration from North +America would be very pleasing to Guatemala and would strengthen the +cordial relations existing between the two countries. That the +immigrants will be well received he was assured. Their practical +character would be especially valuable in developing the resources of +the country. The Director, however, called attention to the fact that in +many places of the country the geological conditions were not similar to +the prairies of the United States where in the beginning very much could +be accomplished on a large scale by machinery. In many of the districts +open to settlement in Guatemala much of the work of clearing would have +to be done by hand. That is one reason why encouragement is given to the +individual settlers instead of to companies. + +To broaden and strengthen the present immigration law the Department of +Agriculture has recommended that certain lands be thrown open to +settlement on the following conditions: + +1. The government shall make the plan for the colony dividing the lands +into lots of one caballeria (112 acres). + +2. The settler shall take immediate possession of the lot which is +granted him. + +3. The government shall aid the removal of the colonists from their +present place of residence to the point where they intend to settle. +This aid to be extended under conditions which will insure its +repayment. + +4. The colonists on taking possession of their land shall obligate +themselves to begin cultivating some of the following articles: rice, +corn, beans, coffee, cacao, vanilla, rubber, cotton, hemp, etc. + +5. The government shall designate from among the colonists some one who +shall give general instruction with regard to the farming. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS. + + +Friendly relations with all countries, both neighboring and distant, is +a leading point in President Estrada Cabrera's programme. The relations +of Guatemala with the United States are particularly close and cordial. + +In his annual message President Estrada Cabrera said: + + + "It is well known that the grand Republic of North America always + has shown the most sympathetic regard for our country and the + earnest effort of my government has been to strengthen the ties of + friendship which unite the two nations. With this feeling existing + there has been achieved during the period since 1898 the most + flattering results, so that it can be confidently stated that never + before have the relations between Guatemala and the United States + reached so great a degree of cordiality as to-day, and it may be + said that never has any cause of discord between the two + governments been so remote as now. The death of the illustrious + President McKinley, which was felt so deeply in Guatemala, and the + advent into the Presidency of Mr. Roosevelt in no way interrupted + the progress of affairs with our Republic and those which were + pending followed their tranquil course towards a satisfactory + arrangement." + + +The Secretary of Foreign Relations in his annual report said: + + + "Motives analogous to those which in foreign governments have + caused congratulation over the re-election of Señor Estrada Cabrera + as President of Guatemala have made it pleasing that the government + of this Republic on its part could extend its congratulations over + the re-election in the United States and Mexico respectively of + Messrs. Roosevelt and Diaz, two eminent statesmen whose + conciliatory policies are well known, as likewise their sympathetic + regard for Guatemala. The continuation of these illustrious + personages in power is considered by this government as a guaranty + of the increasing cordiality of the relations of Guatemala with + them and it has also enabled at the same time to be placed in + evidence with all sincerity the satisfaction which has been + produced by their re-election in their respective countries." + + +These are correct statements, for the sentiment of profound sympathy and +admiration which President Estrada Cabrera and the whole people of +Guatemala entertain for President Roosevelt and for the American people +are very marked. For President Roosevelt on account of his grand traits +of character, of mentality and of heart and the spirit of humanity, +justice and rectitude which make of him the chief magistrate most +conspicuous, most respected, most popular and most cherished of the +present day; and for the American people on account of their +intelligence, their enterprising disposition and their unceasing labors +for progress, which have gained for them so pre-eminent a place among +all the nations of the earth as one of the grandest, most nourishing and +most powerful. + + +ADHERENCE TO THE HAGUE PEACE PRINCIPLES. + +These quotations indicate the sentiment of Guatemala towards the two +countries with which geographically and otherwise it is most closely +allied. Further evidence of the friendship for the United States and of +the desire to sustain its policies of international peace were afforded +in the promptness with which President Roosevelt's suggestion of a +second Peace Conference in The Hague was accepted. With regard to the +United States the Secretary of Foreign Affairs stated: + + + "Knowing the importance of our relations with the great American + nation it was a grateful duty to send a special mission to + Washington with the sole object of congratulating President + Roosevelt. For the discharge of this function Señor Jorge Muñoz was + selected and he discharged it with entire satisfaction to the + government. This mission having been disposed of he was accredited + permanently as Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary. + + "Inasmuch as it was not one of the ancient nations of Europe, but a + young and virile Republic, the strongest in America, which launched + the project through its distinguished President of a second Hague + Conference to perfect and complete the works of the first one in + favor of universal peace, it is to be hoped that this effort will + be seconded by all the countries of the civilized world and that at + no distant time when experience shall have shown the deficiencies + in the conclusions adopted by previous Congresses those which may + be adopted in the coming Peace Conference will be more efficacious + for the success of the humanitarian and praiseworthy end which the + United States proposes." + + +Guatemala previously had given its adhesion to the principles of +arbitration promulgated under The Hague Convention. It was represented +in the Second International American Conference held in Mexico +1901-1902, and the various treaties and recommendations made by that +Conference were ratified or endorsed as in the case of the other +signatory governments. The action taken by the government of Guatemala +on the respective conventions and recommendations was officially +transmitted to Señor Mariscal, Secretary of Foreign Relations of Mexico, +in accordance with the resolution of the Conference. + + +PECUNIARY CLAIMS ARBITRATION. + +Among the treaties promulgated by the Pan-American Conference in Mexico +was one relating to pecuniary claims. This required the ratification of +five governments in order to make it effective. Guatemala was one of the +first to give its formal adhesion to this convention. This treaty was +ratified by the United States Senate and promulgated by the Department +of State from Washington in the spring of 1905, so that United States +citizens can now claim its benefits. The treaty consists of five +articles. Under its terms the high contracting parties agree to submit +to arbitration, through the Hague Court, all claims for pecuniary loss +or damage which may be presented by their respective citizens and which +cannot be amicably adjusted through diplomatic channels and when such +claims are of sufficient importance to warrant the expenses of +arbitration. + +By virtue of Article 26 of the convention of The Hague the high +contracting parties agree to submit to the decision of the Permanent +Court of Arbitration established by that convention all controversies +which are the subject-matter of the Treaty unless both parties should +prefer that especial jurisdiction be organized according to Article 21. + +If for any cause the Permanent Court of The Hague should not be opened +to one or more of the high contracting parties they obligate themselves +to stipulate in a special treaty the rules under which the tribunal +shall be established as well as its forms of procedure. + +In 1902 the administration of President Estrada Cabrera negotiated and +the National Assembly ratified an agreement with Germany, Belgium, +France, England, and Italy, which disposed of many subjects that had +been in controversy. + +Spain, the United States and Mexico did not enter into the agreement +because those governments preferred to postpone the claims of their +citizens until the industrial crisis was over and the financial +conditions were improved. Since that time a number of claims have been +adjusted satisfactorily. President Estrada Cabrera stated in a recent +message that there were no claims at the present time which were +weighing upon the national treasury. These matters having been arranged +satisfactorily he said that no subject had arisen which could alter the +friendly relations with the countries of Europe. This friendship was +shown in the tribute paid by the Diplomatic Corps on New Year's day. +Subsequently the governments of Germany and France had shown especial +consideration by conferring on the President the Order of the Red Eagle +and of the Legion of Honor respectively. + +With Mexico the relations of Guatemala have been cordial since the +boundary dispute was settled in 1895. Recently the commercial relations, +on account of the construction of the Pan-American Railway through +Mexican territory to the Guatemalan border have required the +establishment of various consulates in important places in Mexico, and +the exequaturs have been granted by the Mexican government. + +[Illustration: PLAZA OF JOCOTENANGO, GUATEMALA CITY.] + + +CONCORD IN CENTRAL AMERICA. + +With respect to the neighboring republics of Central America the +attitude of Guatemala has been open and pronounced. It desires to +destroy every cause of discord among the Republics and to maintain a +perfect equilibrium. Guatemala took part in the conference which was +held at Corinto, Nicaragua, in August, 1904, and at which Salvador, +Honduras and Nicaragua also were represented. Through its delegate +President Estrada Cabrera's government subscribed to the following +declarations: + + + 1. To maintain peace is the principal objective of our government, + not only because it is a necessity for the various peoples, but + also because it imposes itself as a duty which all Spanish American + nationalities should fulfil. For this reason we firmly believe in + the proposition to overcome in Central America every obstacle that + may stand in the way of peace and we will put forth our strongest + efforts to frustrate the schemes of those who seek to sow distrust + and jealousy among us impelled as they are by the spirit of + ambition or disorder. + + 2. The strict compliance with the international compacts which bind + us shall be the test to which we submit our acts so that every + effort to the contrary will be vain and barren since it is + necessary to recognize that the generality of the labors of the + enemies of each administration tend to no laudable ends but rather + are the work of selfish egotists, of personal enmities or the + aberration of unbalanced judgment. + + 3. We do not hesitate then in declaring that whatever scheme of + discord, subversive attempt, or suggestion which proposes to break + our loyal friendship shall receive no support among us because the + sincerity and firmness of our relations as representatives of the + peoples whom we serve are and always will be affirmed in this + solemn agreement, which we make at the instance of Central America; + an agreement which is the fruit of the efforts we have made as + public men on different occasions. + + 4. We expect that all good citizens will give us in the sense + indicated their patriotic co-operation inspired in ideals of peace + and fraternity and contributing by supporting us in this accord to + place an end to the discord which the enemies of the public + tranquillity cause. And also upholding the liberal and progressive + policy which governs our acts. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE LAND OF TRAVEL AND HISTORY. + + +Guatemala is a fascinating country for the traveler and visitor. +Antiquarians, deep delvers in the majestic monuments of the long +forgotten past, seek in the myths, the traditions, the temples and the +ruins the riddles of prehistoric civilization. Modern tourists traveling +as they will be able to do within a short time by railway from New York +or San Francisco to the very heart of Guatemala may lose themselves in +admiration of the sublime scenery, the lovely landscapes of valley and +mountain lake and forest (the Indian name for Guatemala means abounding +in trees), volcanic caps, giant outlines, and cloud-clad craters. +Everywhere they will encounter that diversity which is the chief +attraction of natural scenery. They will find also superimposed on the +prehistoric Indian civilization the charm of Spanish architecture, +customs, character and institutions. + +Men of the stamp of President Estrada Cabrera who are engaged in the +material upbuilding and the political progress of the country may prefer +to talk of its agriculture and commerce, its opportunities for the +energetic and resourceful people of the northern regions rather than to +discuss its picturesque ruins audits fascinating history. Yet they would +not have these subjects neglected. Hence the traveler and the tourist +always are welcome, and whether they be deeply learned scientific +investigators or mere birds of passage seeking novelty every provision +is made to aid them in their travels. + + +NATURE'S BOLD HAND. + +In the very accurate and complete physiographic description of Guatemala +contained in the report of the Intercontinental Railway Survey the +following description is given of the great chain of volcanic cones and +peaks which add so greatly to the bold picturesqueness of the country. + + + "The Pacific coast extends generally from the northwest to the + southeast. From the sea the ground rises with a very gentle slope + inland for almost 25 or 30 miles when the country becomes broken by + the lava foothills of the volcanoes which extend from one end of + the country to the other and which stand like a giant wall between + the coast and the interior. Beginning at the Mexican boundary the + line of volcanoes extends nearly parallel to the coast. Back of + this is a plateau limited on the other side by the Continental + Divide and much broken by spurs which unite the volcanoes with the + Divide and the deep valleys between the spurs. The plateau is + drained by rivers which run to the sea through the deep canyons + between the volcanoes. The Continental Divide begins with the + volcano Tacana and making a semicircular bend to the north and east + rises again in the volcano Tajumulco. From this point its general + direction is easterly as far as the Cerro Tecpam. Tacana and + Tajumulco are the highest points on this are being respectively + 13,334 and 13,814 feet above sea level. From Tajumulco to near + Totonicapam the general altitude of the Divide is about 9,000 feet, + the most prominent peaks being the Cerro Cerchil 11,830 feet, and + the Cerro Calel 10,813 feet. From Totonicapam to Cerro Tecpam the + general elevation of the Divide is about 10,500 feet with one peak, + the Cerro Quiche of 11,160 feet. From Cerro Tecpam 10,050 feet, the + Divide turns to the southeast and drops to a general elevation of + about 7,000 feet, crossing the plateau and rising again in the + Cerro Santa Maria Cauqué. Following the hills of Mexico, it crosses + the plain near Guatemala City, the suburb of Guarda Viejo, 5,060 + feet, being on the Divide." + + +The heights of other principal volcanoes are given opposite: + + + Acatenango 13,012 + Fuego 12,821 + Agua 12,300 + Atitlan 11,849 + Santa Maria 10,535 + Quezaltenango 9,358 + Pacaya 7,675 + Ipala 6,801 + Chingo 6,019 + + +VARIETY IN GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE. + +In the geological structure of the country unusual variety of character +is shown. The quarternary formation, aluvium and diluvium, covers the +greater portion of the Pacific coast from the foot of the mountains to +the sea. The same formation is also observed in the neighborhood of +Guatemala City, the valley of the Passion River, Puerto Barrios and +various other localities on the Atlantic Slope. + +The tertiary formation and particularly limestone covers the entire +Department of Peten. Furthermore, limestones and dolomites of the upper +cretaceous age are noted from La Libertad toward the Usumacinta River +and toward British Honduras. In the localities of San Luis and Santa +Bárbara there are tertiary limestones and sandstones of Eocene and +miocene ages. + +The limestones and dolomites of the upper cretaceous age are also found +in various localities mixed with tertiary limestone and sandstone as +well as conglomerates, dolomites, and limestones of the lower cretaceous +age. In other sections they are mixed with limestones and dolomites of +the upper carboniferous age mingled with slate, sandstone and pudding +stone. The latter formation is found in other sections with +precarboniferous limestone and also with crystalline limestone of the +azoic age. + +The tertiary formation is followed by an azoic formation of gneiss, mica +slate, and phylada with large intrusions of granite. A kind of +horn-blend slate has been observed in some parts of Izabal. + +[Illustration: LANDSCAPE OF GUASTOTOYA RIVER.] + +The eruptive formations are composed of porphyry in the north and +northwest; of diorite, obsidian, rhyolite, and dacite and of trachyte, +together with basalt, rhyolite, obsidian and granite in other sections. +The eruptive formations are further composed of basalt in Pacaya and +several other volcanoes; and mostly of ambesite in the rest of the +Cordilleras and the highlands. + +For the present-day traveler who is interested in earthquakes and their +effects and in the ruins of Spanish architecture, nothing more +entertaining can be found than a visit to La Antigua, which can be +reached from Guatemala City by a few hours' ride in carriage or on +horseback. Antigua stretches through the beautiful and fertile valley +which in the Indian language means dry lake because the tradition exists +that in prehistoric times there was a fine sheet of water covering the +land. The panorama which delights the eye from any elevated point of +Antigua is glorious. The three volcanoes of Acatenango, Agua (water) and +Fuego (fire) lose their majestic combs in the clouds. In every direction +spread fertile fields with an infinite number of coffee and sugar +plantations in every state of production. The borders of the city are +bathed by two charming rivers, the Pensativo and the Portal. In the +immediate neighborhood are hygienic baths of pure crystalline water. + + +PREHISTORIC RUINS AND FAMED LAKE ATITLAN. + +Many volumes have been written about the prehistoric ruins of Guatemala +and especially of Copan. One of the most recent and most sumptuously +illustrated is that by Anne Cary Maudslay and Alfred Percival Maudslay +entitled "A Glimpse at Guatemala." It was published in London. In this +book Professor Maudslay gives the following description of a visit to +the ruins at Quiriguá: + + + "The ruins, which are completely hidden in a thick tropical forest, + stand about three-quarters of a mile from the left bank of the + river Motagua and about five miles from the miserable little + village of Quiriguá, from which they take their name. They consist + of numerous square or oblong mounds and terraces varying from six + to forty feet in height, some standing by themselves, others + clustered in irregular groups. Most of these mounds were faced with + worked stone and were ascended by flights of stone steps. + + "The interest centers in the thirteen large carved monoliths which + are arranged irregularly round what were probably the most + important plazas. Six of these monuments are tall stones measuring + three to five feet square and standing fourteen to twenty feet out + of the ground. The other five are oblong or rounded blocks of stone + shaped so as to represent huge turtles or armadilloes or some such + animals. All these monuments are covered with elaborate carving. + Usually on both back and front of the tall monoliths there is + carved a huge human figure standing full face and in a stiff and + conventional attitude. The sides of the monuments are covered with + tables of hieroglyphs, most of them in fairly good preservation. In + addition to these tables of hieroglyphs there are series of square + or cartouches of what appears to be actual picture writing, each + division measuring about eighteen inches square and containing + usually two or three grotesque figures of men and animals. The + design of these picture writings shows considerable variety and + freedom of treatment as compared with that of the large sizes human + figures in the execution of which the artist seems to have been + bound by conventional rules. + + "The largest of the stone animals is perhaps the most remarkable of + all the monuments. Its measurement is roughly a cube of eight feet, + it must weigh nearly twenty tons and it rests on three large slabs + of stone. It is shaped like a turtle and is covered with a most + elaborate and curious ornament and with tables of hieroglyphics and + cartouches of picture writing. The greater part of the ornament + throughout these carvings is formed from the grotesque + representations of the human face or the faces of animals, the + features frequently so greatly exaggerated that it is most + difficult to recognize them, but a careful examination enables one + almost invariably to trace back to this facial origin what at + first sight appears to be merely conventional scroll work. Forms + derived from leaves or flowers are altogether absent; occasional + use is made of a plaited ribbon and a very free use of plumes of + feathers which are oftenmost gracefully arranged and beautifully + carved. The fifteen monuments are divided into two groups; in one + the figures are all those of men, in the other of women." + + +The same authors give the following vivid description of the famed Lake +Atitlan: + + + "Our tent was pitched so close to the precipice that even from my + bed I had a grand view into the Lake and could watch the black + masses of the volcanoes looming clear-cut and solemn in the + moonlight or changing from black to gray in the early dawn; then a + rosy flush would touch the peak of Atitlan and the light creep down + its side, revealing for a brief half hour every detail of cinder + ridge and chasm on its scarred and wounded slopes until with a + sudden burst of glory the sun rose above the eastern hills to + strike the mirror-like surface of the Lake and flood the world with + warmth and dazzling light. Every peak and mountain ridge now stood + out clear and sharp against the morning sky, and only in the shadow + of the hills would a fleecy mist hang over the surface of the lake + far beneath us; then almost before the sun had power to drink up + these lees of the night from the deep gap between the hills to the + south, a linger of white cloud, borne up from the seaward slope, + would creep around the peak of Atitlan only to be dissipated in the + cooler air; but finger followed finger and the mysterious hand + never lost its grasp until about noon great billowy clouds rolled + up through the gap and the outpost was fairly captured although the + crater itself often stood out clear above the cloudy belt. It was + not, however, until the sun began to lose its power that the real + attack commenced and the second column deployed through the gap on + the southern flank of San Pedro and then from five o'clock until + dark there followed a scene which no pen and no brush could + adequately portray. The clouds seemed to be bewitched; they came + down on us in alternate black and sunlit masses, terrible in their + majesty; then rolled aside to show us all the beauty of a sunset + sky, tints of violet that shaded into pink, and pink that melted + into the clearest blue, whilst far away beyond the mountain seaward + rolled vast billowy masses, first red and yellow and then pink + fading to the softest green. Again and again would the clouds roll + down upon us, the mist at times so thick that we could not see + beyond a hundred yards; then just as quickly it would roll away and + reveal a completely new phase of this ever shifting scene of + beauty. As the sun sank behind San Pedro all turned again to dark + and angry purple with contrasts and reflections like the sheen of a + shot silk. Slowly the mists melted away with the fading daylight, + Venus hung for a while like a splendid jewel in the air and the + mountains turned again to shadowy masses outlined against a crystal + sky." + + +FASCINATING HISTORY THROUGH THE CENTURIES. + +Historically every period of Guatemala is fascinating. Usually the +history of the country is divided into the epochs of the aborigines, the +Spanish Conquest, Independence, and the era of liberal governments. + +Across the centuries the path of history can be traced. A book written +in the 16th century by one of the aborigines of the time of the Conquest +and called "Popol-Vuh" or "Book of the People," speaks of the Quiches, +vigorous and hardy natives of the soil, forerunners of the Guatemalan +people as having reached at that time a degree of advance which singled +them out from among the other primitive inhabitants of America. Their +religious system was in essence a kind of animal worship whose gods were +personified by the fox, the coyote, and the wild boar to be soon +reemployed through natural evolution by the forces of nature such as the +heavens, the earth, and the sea. They left as evidences of their worship +the multitude of monuments whose imposing ruins are preserved today. +Pyramids which seem to bear traces of Egypt and characters indicative +of a remote Asiatic origin; temples, such as the Temple of the Sun, of +grand architecture; and the Palace, dwelling of the King, a holy being +and the Supreme Arbiter. The latter is among the most notable of +American antiquities and it causes admiration through the graduated +pyramid, the triangular vault and the arch forming an harmonious whole. +The Quiche civilization was an advanced one and its government was a +theocracy in which the High Priest was both the Supreme Governor and +inherited the name of the primitive god Votan. This theocracy was drawn +from among the warriors while the people in complete servitude tilled +the fields in order to sustain the worship and raise grand monuments and +built numerous cities on the borders of the lakes and rivers. + +Agriculture was well advanced. Cacao was cultivated with grand +ceremonies and maize or Indian corn which was guarded with profound +veneration because according to the ancient tradition man was formed +from it. Cotton was also grown and brilliant garments woven from it +which were dyed with cochineal and pigments formed from various plants. +Tobacco was cultivated and yucca, beans, potatoes, etc. Various textiles +were fabricated of the finest quality and many of the palaces and +temples were hung with this tapestry. + +Ceramics and various kinds of pottery were manufactured both for use and +for ornament. The sciences and the arts were developed. The fame of the +Quiche calendar exists today. The aborigines also understood painting, +sculpture, and music. They made plumes and cloaks from the feathers of +the birds and they wrote upon a paper prepared from the Amatl. Their +language was liquid and possessed few inflections. It was the most +perfect of the six hundred or more languages which the Spaniards +encountered in the Isthmus of Central America. They had a literature of +their own and from this fragments have been preserved notably the drama +"Rabinal Achi." + + +SPANISH CONQUEST AND WHAT CAME AFTER. + +Guatemala was conquered by the Lieutenant of Cortez, Pedro de Alvarado. +In April, 1524, he crowned his series of victories over the Quiches by +routing them on the plains of Urbina, capturing and condemning to perish +by hanging the two last Kings of the most powerful monarchy of Central +America; Oxib-Queh and Beleheb-Tzy. In July of the same year he founded +the city of Guatemala, although this was not definitely established +until November, 1527. + +Within a few years all the regions of Central America had submitted to +the Spanish Crown and formed the Kingdom of Guatemala, to the capital of +which was transferred in 1549 the Royal Audiencia or High Court. +Guatemala was the head of Spanish power in Central America under the +general term of the Spanish Captain Generalcy for two centuries. + +During the two hundred and fifty years following the Conquest the +country had three capitals in turn, all named Guatemala City. The first, +founded by Alvarado, was on the very spot where he fought the battle +which made him conqueror. The Indian kings of the South having heard of +the exploits of Cortez in Mexico, sent an embassy to him which he +received with distinction. He sent his favorite Lieutenant Alvarado back +to take possession. Alvarado and his three hundred Spanish soldiers were +nearly a year in making the journey through the forest. When the Indians +opposed him he gave continuous battle and finally conquered. He +destroyed their capital, razed the temple of their idols to the ground, +and built on its site a church. + +For seventeen years Alvarado kept the Indians at work building a new +capital on the site of their old one. Then came the earthquake which +destroyed the place and buried nine-tenths of the inhabitants under the +ruins. A new location was found, but again, in 1773, by the eruption of +Santa Maria the capital was destroyed. This is the group of picturesque +ruins now known as La Antigua. With the destruction of this capital a +third and final movement to the splendid situation in the Hermit Valley +was made and the new capital which is the Guatemala City of today was +established. + +After years of struggle against the Spanish domination, beginning in +1811, Guatemala secured its independence, which was proclaimed September +15, 1821, when in place of the Kingdom of Guatemala there was +established "A nation free and independent of every other nation." The +history of subsequent years is interwoven with the events of other +Central American countries. After many evolutions and disorders as well +as revolutionary changes of government, the era known as the period of +reform and the re-establishment of the liberties of the country began in +1871. + + +CHAPTERS OF RECENT HISTORY. + +The events which led to the adoption of the liberal Constitution of +1879, which is today in force, do not need to be recounted here. General +Justo Rufino Barrios, who had been the leading spirit in the Liberal +revolution, was a pronounced advocate of the union of all the Central +American States in a single federal republic. He endeavored to +accomplish this against the opposition of Salvador and was killed at the +battle of Chalchuapa in 1885. He was succeeded by General Manuel +Lisandro Barillas, who exercised the government from 1887 to 1892. After +him came General José Maria Reyna Barrios, who during the first four +years of his administration gave a good government and worked much for +the prosperity of his country. In the last two years, however, through +the bad counsels of selfish advisers foreign to his government he sought +to extend the term of his authority and was resisted by successive +revolutions. He was assassinated by a personal enemy of European +nationality in February, 1898, and Guatemala was then left in the midst +of a most disastrous condition, both industrial and political. + +It was at this period that Manuel Estrada Cabrera, the lawyer, came into +power and began the series of administrative reforms and measures for +the material development of the country which have so vastly improved +the condition of the people, have re-established credit and given +assurance of further progress under continuous peace and tranquillity. +It is these beneficial measures which have caused President Estrada +Cabrera to be signalized as the chief of the modern emancipation of +Guatemala in its policies, in its intellectual and moral advancement, +and as the author of its present progress. Under his government order in +administration has been secured, respect for the rights of all, material +development in countless forms, the general improvement of the people +and the most perfect harmony and equity in international relations have +been obtained. It is the success of these policies, which is now +assured, that makes Guatemala so clearly the country of the future and +entitles Estrada Cabrera to rank with the most distinguished heads of +State of the present day. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Guatemala, the country of the future, by +Charles M. 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Pepper. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + + p.bold {text-align: center; font-weight: bold;} + p.bold2 {text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 150%;} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + h1 span, h2 span { display: block; text-align: center; } + #id1 { font-size: smaller } + + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + hr.smler { width: 10%; } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; border: none; text-align: right;} + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + text-indent: 0px; + } /* page numbers */ + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smaller {font-size: smaller;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .left {text-align: left;} + .tbrk {margin-bottom: 2em;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Guatemala, the country of the future, by +Charles M. Pepper + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Guatemala, the country of the future + +Author: Charles M. Pepper + +Release Date: December 10, 2011 [EBook #38264] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GUATEMALA, COUNTRY OF THE FUTURE *** + + + + +Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Martin Pettit and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<p class="bold2">GUATEMALA</p> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">The Country of the Future</span></p> + +<hr /> + +<div class="center"><a name="illus004.jpg" id="illus004.jpg"></a><img src="images/illus004.jpg" width='416' height='700' alt="PORTRAIT OF HIS EXCELLENCY PRESIDENT DON MANUEL ESTRADA CABRERA" /></div> + +<p class="bold">PORTRAIT OF HIS EXCELLENCY<br />PRESIDENT DON MANUEL ESTRADA CABRERA.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<h1><span>GUATEMALA<br /><span class="smcap">The Country of the Future</span><br /> +A MONOGRAPH</span><br /><span id="id1">BY</span> <span>CHARLES M. PEPPER</span></h1> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p class="center">WASHINGTON, D. C.<br />1906</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>CONTENTS.</span></h2> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<table summary="CONTENTS"> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="left"><span class="smaller">CHAPTER.</span></td> + <td><span class="smaller">PAGE.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>I.</td> + <td class="left"> A Brief Description</td> + <td><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>II.</td> + <td class="left"> A Progressive President and his Policies</td> + <td><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>III.</td> + <td class="left"> The Soil and its Riches</td> + <td><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>IV.</td> + <td class="left"> Trade and Markets</td> + <td><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>V.</td> + <td class="left"> Climate and Immigration</td> + <td><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>VI.</td> + <td class="left"> International Relations</td> + <td><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>VII.</td> + <td class="left"> The Land of Travel and History</td> + <td><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<h2><span>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</span></h2> + +<table summary="LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Portrait of His Excellency President Don Manuel Estrada Cabrera</td> + <td><a href="#illus004.jpg">Frontispiece</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Monument to Columbus</td> + <td>opposite <a href="#illus021.jpg">16</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">President and Members of Cabinet</td> + <td>" <a href="#illus031.jpg">24</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Vista of Aguna Plantation</td> + <td>" <a href="#illus041.jpg">32</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Bridge over Motagua River</td> + <td>" <a href="#illus051.jpg">40</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Street in Escuintla</td> + <td>" <a href="#illus073.jpg">60</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Plaza of Jocotenango, Guatemala City</td> + <td>" <a href="#illus083.jpg">68</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Landscape of Guastotoya River</td> + <td>" <a href="#illus089.jpg">72</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>PUBLIC OFFICIALS.</span></h2> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p class="center"><i>President and Cabinet.</i></p> + +<p class="center">Señor <span class="smcap">Don Manuel Estrada Cabrera</span>,<br /> +<i>President of the Republic</i>.</p> + +<p class="center">Señor <span class="smcap">Don Juan Barrios, M.</span><br /> +<i>Minister of Foreign Relations</i>.</p> + +<p class="center">Señor <span class="smcap">Don Juan J. Argueta</span>,<br /> +<i>Minister of Government and Justice</i>.</p> + +<p class="center">Señor <span class="smcap">Don José Flamenco</span>,<br /> +<i>Minister of Public Improvement</i> (<i>Fomento</i>).</p> + +<p class="center">Señor <span class="smcap">General Don Luis Molina</span>,<br /> +<i>Minister of War</i>.</p> + +<p class="center">Señor <span class="smcap">Don Guillermo Aguirre</span>,<br /> +<i>Minister of the Treasury</i>.</p> + +<p class="center">Señor <span class="smcap">Don J. Antonio Mandujano</span>,<br /> +<i>Minister of Public Instruction</i>.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>MINISTER AND CONSULS IN THE UNITED STATES.</span></h2> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p class="center">Señor <span class="smcap">Don Jorge Muñoz</span>,<br /> +<i>Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary,<br /> +Highlands, Washington, D. C.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Joaquin Yela</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul General, 2 Stone St., New York City</i>.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">D. Kingsland</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul General, 1521 N. 11th St., St. Louis, Mo.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Felipe Galicia V.</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul General, 421 Market St., San Francisco, Cal.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">C. Morton Stewart</span>, Jr.,<br /> +<i>Consul General, Baltimore, Md.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Julio Novella</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul General, P. O. Box 1374, New Orleans, La.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Shirley Crawford</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul, Louisville, Ky.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Gustavo Niederlein</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul, Philadelphia, Pa.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Edwin R. Heath</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul, 218 Rialto Bldg., Kansas City, Kans.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Benjamin Preston Clark</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul, 92 Water St., Boston, Mass.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Vicente J. Vidal</span>,<br /> +<i>Vice-Consul, Pensacola, Fla.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Manuel Maria Sama</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul, Mayaguez, P. R.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">M. Merrow</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul, Galveston, Texas</i>.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Andres J. Balliet</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul, Seattle, Wash.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Ormond W. Follin</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul, San Diego, Cal.</i></p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>UNITED STATES MINISTER AND CONSULS IN GUATEMALA.</span></h2> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Leslie Combs</span>,<br /> +<i>Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary,<br /> +Guatemala City</i>.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Alfred A. Winslow</span>,<br /> +<i>Consul General, Guatemala City</i>.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">William Owen</span>,<br /> +<i>V. & D. Consul General, Guatemala City</i>.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Carl G. Heitman</span>,<br /> +<i>Consular Agent, Champerico</i>.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Edward Reed</span>,<br /> +<i>Consular Agent, Livingston</i>.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Samuel Wolford</span>,<br /> +<i>Consular Agent, Ocos.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Frank Sims Swan</span>,<br /> +<i>Consular Agent, San José de Guatemala</i>.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>CHAPTER I.</span> <span class="smaller"><span class="smcap">A Brief Description.</span></span></h2> + +<p>The Republic of Guatemala, which name is derived from the Indian word +"Quanhitemallan," signifying "land covered with trees," has been +described as the privileged zone of Central America. This is because of +its resources, its climate, and its accessibility.</p> + +<p>The country is easily reached from all directions through its seaports +on both the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans and through its rapidly growing +system of railways. From California, from the neighboring ports of other +Central American countries and from Panama there is regular and reliable +steamship service on the Pacific coast. On the Atlantic or Gulf side +from New York, New Orleans, Galveston and Mobile there is frequent +steamship service, while there is also connection at Colon with English +and German lines. The steamers on the Pacific coast connect at San José +with the Guatemala Central Railway, which affords easy means of arriving +at the capital city and the great coffee-raising districts. These are +reached by the branch to Mazatenango, which forms a junction with the +Occidental Railway between Champerico and San Felipe. On the Atlantic +side is Puerto Barrios, which will derive additional importance from the +early completion of the Northern Railway and which will place New +Orleans within five days or less of Guatemala City, Chicago six days, +and New York seven days. Besides the means of communication afforded +jointly by the steamship lines and the railroads at an early date there +will be complete and uninterrupted railway communication with St. Louis +and other points of the Mississippi Valley through Mexico. The means of +communication and transportation are given more fully later on.</p> + +<p>Geographically the Republic of Guatemala is the heart of intertropical +America. It is the most northern part of Central America, in shape like +a polygon, with the southern<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> side the longest. It lies approximately +between north latitude 13° and 42' and 17° and 49', and between 88° and +10' and 92° and 30' longitude west of Greenwich. Its area is 50,600 +square miles—the greatest length from north to south being 360 and from +east to west 390 miles. The Pacific coast line with indentations is +nearly 400 miles and the Atlantic line about 150 miles in length.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Striking Physical Aspects.</span></p> + +<p>In its physical aspects Guatemala is a country of mountains, tropical +forests, lakes and rivers and coast plains. It was described by Humboldt +more than one hundred years ago as extremely fertile and well +cultivated, and this description holds good to-day, though there are +vast areas of rich agricultural land yet open to profitable cultivation +and only awaiting immigration to develop their richness.</p> + +<p>The Guatemalan Andes consist of three minor mountain systems. These are +the northern zone, chiefly of denuded cones, 1,500 to 2,000 feet in +height, with plains lying between them; the central zone consisting of +ranges and chains running east and west with many marked elevations +rising from 7,000 to 14,000 feet; and the southern zone consisting of +eruptive chains which culminate in many notable volcanic peaks, some of +which are more than 14,000 feet in height. These are known as the +Cordilleras and they parallel the Pacific Ocean.</p> + +<p>There are three river systems emptying respectively into the Gulf of +Mexico, the Atlantic and the Pacific. Some of the streams flowing into +the Gulf of Mexico are navigable by steamboats of light draught.</p> + +<p>Of the Atlantic tributaries the principal rivers are the Sarstoon, the +Motagua and the Dulce; the latter empties into the Gulf of Honduras. +Navigation is possible on the Motagua for about 75 miles from the mouth. +The rivers flowing into the Pacific include the Paz, the Suchiate, and +the Patulul. These have their sources in the Andean Cordilleras or the +neighboring highlands. There is also the Michatoya which is navigable +for small boats to its <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>confluence with the Maria Linda. Generally +speaking, a few of the rivers on the southern coast might be made +navigable for short distances with boats of very light draught.</p> + +<p>Guatemala has a series of inland lakes which include Izabal, Atitlan, +Amatitlan, which are capable of steam navigation; Peten, Ayarza and +Guija. The largest of these is Lake Izabal, which is 58 miles long by 12 +miles in width and which has its outlet through the Dulce River into the +Gulf of Honduras.</p> + +<p>The cities and municipal districts having a population of 10,000 and +upwards are as follows:</p> + +<table summary="cities and municipal districts"> + <tr> + <td class="left"> NAME.</td> + <td>POPULATION. </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Guatemala City</td> + <td>100,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Antigua</td> + <td>10,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Quezaltenango</td> + <td>25,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Totonicapan</td> + <td>33,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Coban</td> + <td>23,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Chiquimula</td> + <td>13,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Jalapa</td> + <td>13,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Escuintla</td> + <td>13,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Salamá</td> + <td>13,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Amatitlan</td> + <td>10,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Zacapa</td> + <td>12,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Flores</td> + <td>13,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Jutiapa</td> + <td>14,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Huehuetenango</td> + <td>10,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Retalhuleu</td> + <td>10,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Sololá</td> + <td>15,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Mazatenango</td> + <td>10,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">San Marcos</td> + <td>10,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Atitlan</td> + <td>10,000</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">The Handsome Capital City.</span></p> + +<p>Guatemala, the capital, is the largest city in Central America. The +location is unusually healthy, being 5,000 feet above sea level. The +city is laid out on a splendid scale with many fine avenues and parks. +It is improving its system of tramways by changing to electricity as +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> motor power. The public buildings are especially notable. Among the +principal ones are the Palaces of the Government, the Presidency, the +Legislative Power, the Judicial Power, the Municipality, and the +Archbishopric; the Cathedral and other magnificent churches; the +Ministry of Public Improvement (Fomento), the Mint, the Conservatory of +Music, the general offices of accounts, of police, and of liquors and +internal revenue; the custom-house, the national institutes of young +men, of young ladies and of the native race, the first of which is +provided with a meteorological observatory; the schools of law, +medicine, engineering, polytechny, and arts; the children's college and +a large number of public schools; the Colon theatre; the registry of +real estate, the national printing-office, the post-office, the National +Museum; the military hospital, and the general hospitals, the asylums +for the insane and for convalescents and invalids; the central and the +Calvary markets; the penitentiary and the artillery, cavalry, and Guard +of Honor and San Francisco barracks; San José and Matamoros forts, and a +very large number of other imposing edifices. The American Club, which +has several hundred members, mostly citizens of the United States, +occupies fine quarters.</p> + +<p>Some of the parks, plazas, and public drives are adorned with very +beautiful marble or bronze statues. Among the principal ones are the +bronze monument of Christopher Columbus in the central park and the +marble one of the same historic personage in the garden of the Colon +Theatre; that of General J. Rufino Barrios and that of Don Miguel Garcia +Granados in the boulevard of the Reforma; and that of Friar Bartolomew +de Las Casas in the campus of the Institute of the Indian race. The last +three statues are of bronze.</p> + +<p>The seaports of Guatemala are of a varied character. Their value grows +every day because of the increased commerce that is resulting from the +development of the country under the industrial policies of President +Estrada Cabrera. On the Atlantic the leading ports are Livingston, +Izabal,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> Santo Tomas, and Puerto Barrios. Of these Puerto Barrios is +easily first. It lies at the extremity of the Gulf of Amatique, is +spacious and is well protected against winds. As the terminus of the +Guatemalan Northern Railway it is assured of a very extensive trade both +in exports and in imports. Puerto Barrios is not only a receiving and +distributing center for Guatemala, but also for a considerable portion +of the neighboring Republic of Salvador, which has no port on the Atlantic.</p> + +<p>The chief ports on the Pacific side are San José, Champerico, and Ocos. +By far the largest amount of business is done through the port of San +José, which is the terminus of the Guatemalan Central Railroad. It has +extensive quays and other facilities for navigation.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Ocean Transportation Facilities.</span></p> + +<p>Guatemala is well supplied with ocean transportation facilities, several +of the steamship companies receiving aid from the government. On the +Pacific coast there is the Pacific Mail which maintains a regular +fortnightly service with extra vessels during the coffee season and +which touches at the ports between San Francisco and Panama. The German +line known as the Kosmos puts the Guatemalan ports in communication with +the West Coast of South America as well as with the ports of California +and Mexico. It carries both passengers and freight. There are also +numerous small coasting vessels. It is probable that service will be +resumed by the various Chilean lines which formerly proceeded to San +Francisco, touching at Guatemalan and other ports, but which of recent +years have not gone north of Panama. All the vessels have excellent +passenger accommodations.</p> + +<p>From the Atlantic ports there are ships engaged in the fruit trade with +New York and Boston, some of which carry passengers. Usually, however, +passengers prefer to travel by way of New Orleans or Mobile, from either +of which cities every Thursday there is a vessel plying directly to +Puerto Barrios. The most complete service is that maintained by the +United Fruit Company.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p><p>In view of the growing development on the Atlantic slope and of the +commerce which is certain to result there is an excellent opportunity +for an increased steamship service with the ports of the United States. +The time could be greatly lessened with advantages both in the +transportation of freight and in the benefit to passengers. The policy +of the government towards steamship lines both as relates to port +charges and to other measures is a most liberal one and every inducement +is offered to engage in furnishing additional facilities, which will +shorten the time between the different points and increase the frequency +of communication.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Growth of Railroad System.</span></p> + +<p>The railway system of Guatemala under the administration of President +Estrada Cabrera is certain to be the most useful means of developing the +country. Every encouragement is given to capital to engage in railroad +enterprises. The general plan includes both an interoceanic railroad and +links in the intercontinental or north and south lines. No measure of +President Estrada Cabrera's administration has been of greater +importance than his action in securing the completion of the Northern +Railway, which will be open for traffic throughout its entire length by +the end of 1906. This places the capital and the whole interior of the +country in direct communication with Puerto Barrios and insures a very +heavy decrease in the cost of freight both for the agricultural exports +and for the merchandise and other imports. The line runs from Guatemala +City to El Rancho and thence to Puerto Barrios. At various times +concessions were given for building the different sections, but +circumstances caused many of them to be almost abandoned.</p> + +<p>In the face of repeated discouragements President Estrada Cabrera took +up the subject with resolute spirit and with the sanction of the +National Assembly made a contract with a syndicate of which the +principals were Sir William C. Van Horne, the celebrated railroad man,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> +who completed the Canadian Pacific Railway in the face of monumental +difficulties and who subsequently built the Cuba Central Railway; and +Minor C. Keith, of the United Fruit Company, who for a third of a +century had been identified with various successful enterprises in +Central America. Subsequently the Guatemala Central Railway took a share +in the enterprise and also German banking and coffee interests. Under +the contract no export duty is to be laid on agricultural exports +transported over the railroad except coffee and the Company is given the +right to fix its passenger and freight charges on a gold basis. There +were many engineering difficulties to be overcome, the chiefest of which +was the bridging of the Motagua River. The material for this railway +construction was imported principally from the United States, the rails +from Maryland and the bridgework across the Motagua and other rivers +from Pittsburg.</p> + +<p>The importance of this Northern Railway to the development of Guatemala +is incalculable. It insures the opening up of a very rich country which +means a great addition to the exports of Guatemala and it also should +bring a large immigration because of the facilities for easy +communication and access to the markets of the United States which it +will afford. With the operation of the Northern Railway in connection +with the Guatemala Central, the country will have a through railway line +from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, 270 miles in length. While the +interior development is the chief benefit of this through railway +system, it is not unlikely that during the years that must pass until +the Panama Canal is completed some of the international traffic which +cannot be accommodated on the railway line across the Isthmus will find +a cheap and expeditious passage across Guatemala.</p> + +<p>On the Pacific slope the leading railway system is the Guatemala +Central. It was built by C. P. Huntington and is one of the best +railroads anywhere south of the Rio Grande. Though of narrow gauge the +roadbed was laid for standard gauge, and this change can be made at any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +time. Unlike most foreign railways the Guatemala Central maintains the +American system of checking baggage. Its main line and branches cover +the coffee-raising districts of the Pacific coast section of Guatemala. +The Occidental Railroad has about 50 miles of track and the Ocos line 20 +miles. Both of these are on the Pacific slope.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Comprehensive Railway Policy.</span></p> + +<p>It is worth knowing that while the interoceanic line approaches +completion Guatemala is making decided progress in the links of the +Pan-American or intercontinental north and south trunk line. From a +junction with the Northern a branch will run south to Zacapa and +ultimately will be extended into Salvador. Towards the north there is +only a section of 30 miles to be completed in order to prolong the +Guatemalan system to Ayutla on the border of Mexico and this will be +done as soon as the extension of the Mexican lines to the boundary are +completed. These extensions are to be finished within two years, so it +may reasonably be said that by the end of 1907, if not sooner, a through +railway journey will be possible from San Francisco, Chicago, or New +York to the capital of Guatemala. The importance of this railway +building was shown by Senator Stephen B. Elkins, the chairman of the +Senate Committee on Interstate Commerce, in a speech made at the dinner +given the Pan-American Railway Committee by the Hon. H. G. Davis. In his +speech Senator Elkins said that the freight on coffee, which now +approximates $20 per ton or $1,000 on a carload of 50 tons, would be +cheapened till it came down to $250 per carload, or $5 per ton.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="illus021.jpg" id="illus021.jpg"></a><img src="images/illus021.jpg" width='415' height='700' alt="MONUMENT TO COLUMBUS" /></div> + +<p class="bold">MONUMENT TO COLUMBUS.</p> + +<p>The railroad laws of Guatemala are thus explained in my official report +as Commissioner of the Pan-American Railway:</p> + +<p>"The railways of Guatemala are regulated by the provisions of the +Commercial Code and by the general railway law known as Decree No. 566, +dated February 1, 1898. By the terms of this decree persons or companies +seeking franchises are required to submit the plans to the Department of +Fomento; when indorsed by that Department the sanction of the Council of +State is sought, and finally the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> approval of the National Legislature. +All contracts celebrated by the executive power have to be approved by +the National Legislature. The contracts may be with designated +individuals, with persons acting for others, or for companies that are +to be formed.</p> + +<p>"Concessions can be granted with subsidy or without it, guaranteeing or +not the capital which may be invested, with an interest proportionate to +the product. The Government shall include in the estimates the share of +pecuniary responsibilities required for fulfilling the obligation +contracted.</p> + +<p>"The State may exempt the enterprise from the payment of every class of +contributions, from the use of stamped paper and fiscal dues, for the +time which it may consider just or opportune, but in every instance the +exemptions shall be specified in the contract.</p> + +<p>"The right of eminent domain or expropriation for the benefit of +grantees holding franchises is enforced. The Government also undertakes +to procure uniformity in the gauge and the rails.</p> + +<p>"The Government offers every inducement to promote the extension and +development of railroads in the country. The best evidence of its policy +toward legitimate and genuine capital is shown in the terms of the +contract for the completion of the Northern Railroad.</p> + +<p>"The engineering difficulties of railroad construction in Guatemala are +not grave, as the lines skirt the foothills of the great agricultural +regions. The immense natural resources, consisting of the products both +of the tropical and the temperate climates, such as coffee, sugar, +tobacco, the cereals; the vast pasturage for live stock; the undeveloped +timber industries, and the unexploited mines, all open up prospects for +profitable traffic."</p> + +<p>In addition to its railways Guatemala seeks to maintain a complete +system of highways or cart roads. Among the most important cart roads +which have recently been built or are now under construction, are those +from the capital to San Juan Sacatepequez, San Pedro and San Raymundo. +There is also a cart road between Huehuetenango and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> Quezaltenango; one +from Coban to Quiche which will join the departments of the north with +the rich western section of the Republic; from Totonicapan to Quiche; +that between Ovejero and Trujillo, which will place in communication the +departments of Jutiapa and Jalapa; that from Tumbador to San Marcos; +that from Solola to Panajachel; that from Chicacao to Nahualate; and +finally the highway from San Jeronimo and Rancho San Augustin, which +will join the department of Baja Verapaz with Zacapa. All these roads +serve as new arteries for the development and the enlargement of +commerce and agriculture and this has been the special care of President +Estrada Cabrera, who has provided the means for opening, wherever +possible, the necessary ways of communication.</p> + +<p>Distances between the capital city and the principal points of the +country are as follows:</p> + +<table summary="Distances"> + <tr> + <td class="left"> GUATEMALA TO</td> + <td>MILES. </td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Antigua</td> + <td>27</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Chimaltenango</td> + <td>36</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Amatitlan</td> + <td>18</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Escuintla</td> + <td>43</td> + <td>½</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Cuajiniquilapa</td> + <td>42</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Solola</td> + <td>90</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Totonicapan</td> + <td>111</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Quezaltenango</td> + <td>120</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Mazatenango</td> + <td>138</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Retalhuleu</td> + <td>153</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">San Marcos</td> + <td>165</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Huehuetenango</td> + <td>195</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Santa Cruz de Quiche</td> + <td>96</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Salamá</td> + <td>69</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Coban</td> + <td>126</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Flores</td> + <td>321</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Izabal</td> + <td>216</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Zacapa</td> + <td>126</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Chiquimula</td> + <td>135</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Jalapa</td> + <td>75</td> + <td></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Jutiapa</td> + <td>87</td> + <td></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Postal and Cable Service.</span></p> + +<p>The means of facilitating intercourse both among its own people and with +the outside world has always been encouraged by the government of +Guatemala.</p> + +<p>The Republic is a member of the International Postal Union. It has an +excellent post-office service, both foreign and domestic. Complete +information is given in the Postal Code of the Republic. During the last +year the number of pieces of mail received in all the offices of the +Republic was nearly 5,000,000, while the mail matter transmitted +amounted to 3,653,000 separate pieces. The telegraph and telephone are +nationalized and are controlled and operated by the Government, though +there are also some private telephone lines in the capital. The national +telegraph lines have a total length of about 5,300 kilometers, 3,290 +miles, and the telephone lines of 500 kilometers, 310 miles. The number +of telegrams transmitted in a given year was 1,106,832. The Government +is constantly constructing new lines both for telegraph and telephone +service. At the present time there are nearly 200 telegraph offices and +about 100 telephone offices. The rates both for telegraph and telephone +messages, which are payable in Guatemalan currency, are quite moderate. +A telegram of 10 words to any part of the Republic costs about 5 cents +in gold. The long distance telephone service is at the rate of about 15 +cents for a five minutes' conversation.</p> + +<p>The cable service is maintained by the Central and South American +Telegraph Company, whose main office is at San José. The following are +the charges per word in gold:</p> + +<table class="left" summary="cable service charges per word"> + <tr> + <td>Guatemala to</td> + <td>points in the</td> + <td> United States</td> + <td>55 cts.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> "</td> + <td> " "</td> + <td>Great Britain</td> + <td>80 cts.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> "</td> + <td> " "</td> + <td>France</td> + <td>80 cts.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> "</td> + <td> " "</td> + <td>Germany</td> + <td>80 cts.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> "</td> + <td> " "</td> + <td>Canada</td> + <td>58 cts.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> "</td> + <td> " "</td> + <td>Central America </td> + <td>29 to 32 cts.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> "</td> + <td>Havana, Cuba</td> + <td></td> + <td>66 cts.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> "</td> + <td>points in Mexico</td> + <td></td> + <td>31 to 44 cts.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> "</td> + <td>City of Panama</td> + <td></td> + <td>37 cts.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> "</td> + <td>City of Colon</td> + <td></td> + <td>47 cts.</td> + </tr> + +</table> + +<hr /> + +<p> + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>CHAPTER II.</span> <span class="smaller"><span class="smcap">A Progressive President and His Policies.</span></span></h2> + +<p>Guatemala in order to fulfil its destiny as the country of the future +must be assured of stable and progressive government hospitable to +foreign capital. To insure these things it is necessary to have the +right man at the head of affairs. No one now questions that Guatemala +possesses this advantage in the person of Manuel Estrada Cabrera, whose +term as President will not expire till 1911.</p> + +<p>The best test of any public man entrusted with the responsibility of +government is the opinion of disinterested foreign observers whose +position gives them the opportunity to judge. This opinion was voiced by +Mr. Leslie Combs, the American Minister Plenipotentiary to Guatemala, on +the occasion of a New Year's reception by President Estrada Cabrera +(1905), when the diplomatic corps called on the President in a body. +Speaking for himself and for his colleagues of the Diplomatic Corps +Minister Combs on that occasion said:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Upon such an occasion as this criticism or compliment would alike +be out of place, but it may be permitted to mention the wonderful +development in Mexico in the past ten years, the great work now in +hand to the south and to predict that Guatemala in material wealth +and well-being has a great future before her. We hope this will be +realized in your next administration and that this year will +distinctly mark its advent.</p> + +<p>"The wise base their hopes of the future upon their experiences of +the past and we look to the peace and order maintained by your +administration in the past seven years as a guarantee that your +people may expect as much in those that are to follow.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p><p>"We remember that called to your position of responsibility by a +tragedy you have firmly held the authority with which you have been +entrusted. We remember that by the diplomatic settlement of 1902, +by arbitration and negotiation, you have settled all the foreign +claims of importance against your government and have given rise to +not one yourself. We remember that hardly had the ashes cooled +after the terrible disaster of Santa Maria when railway spikes were +being driven to its base and the Mazatenango Railway opened, that +the Northern Railway contract seems to guarantee the completion of +that highway to the Atlantic at an early date.</p> + +<p>"These achievements in a period of depression, in the face of +natural phenomena of almost unparalleled destructiveness, warrant +the hope that conditions may enable you to direct the destiny of +Guatemala still further along on the highway to that position all +hope she may one day occupy. A noble field lies before you. That +you may be able to occupy it to the greatest advantage of your +country is our earnest wish."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The tribute from Minister Combs, as will be noticed, especially +emphasizes President Estrada Cabrera's qualities as a man of +achievement. That is the keynote of his character, to do something for +his country.</p> + +<p>President Estrada Cabrera is a civilian executive. His public life has +been that of a lawyer eminent in his profession.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Support of Liberal Principles.</span></p> + +<p>In his participation in public affairs President Estrada Cabrera always +has supported liberal principles. It was therefore natural that he +should be prominent in the councils of the Liberal party and should +become the leader of that organization. His career has been one to +familiarize him with all the departments of the government. He served as +Secretary of Government and Justice, and it was while, holding this +position that in order to investigate a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> land controversy he went out +into the wilderness himself and spent several weeks going over the +sections concerning which he desired to be fully informed. The result +was that this controversy which had been in dispute for a long term of +years was finally settled in the manner most equitable and just for the +parties interested. This is the way President Estrada Cabrera works when +the interests of the State are involved.</p> + +<p>In 1898 when President-General José Maria Reyna Barrios was killed, Mr. +Estrada Cabrera was <i>Primer Designado</i>, the position which corresponds +to vice-president in the United States and under which he became acting +President until an election could be held. At that election he was +chosen President by a substantially unanimous vote. An indication of his +public policies was given by him when he outlined his programme on +coming into the responsibility for the government of Guatemala during +the interim which he served in the character of <i>Primer Designado</i>. On +that occasion he said:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"My administration will be brief and of a temporary character, but +not for that reason shall it be left for History to demand of me a +strict account of my acts during this period. I declare in the most +solemn manner before my fellow citizens that I wish to hand back +the beautiful standard of my country without stain. I desire that +the Constitution, the sacred repository of our liberties, be not +soiled in my hands. My hope is that all of my compatriots may enjoy +the life and public liberties that are rightfully theirs. I wish +that all the guaranties may protect them in the moment when they +approach the ballot boxes to cast their vote for the person to whom +it will be given to direct the destinies of our common country."</p></blockquote> + +<p>It was after this declaration and after several months' experience under +President Estrada Cabrera's administration that in September, 1898, the +people chose him to fill out the full presidential term and then in 1904 +re-elected him for the term which will expire in 1911.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p><p>When President Estrada Cabrera became charged with the full +responsibility of power in 1898, Guatemala was in the midst of political +complications and of a very severe industrial crisis. His first labor +was to insure political tranquillity. When this was accomplished he gave +all his energies and his talents to developing the resources of the +country and to the improvement of public administration. From this point +a recent writer, confirming the eulogy of Minister Combs, said:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Guatemala now enjoys unalterable peace. Her progress is most +notable and instead of investing the public funds exclusively in +swords and cannons there have been instituted the annual festival +of Minerva, the most splendid work of Estrada Cabrera as ruler and +as patriot, arousing in this manner in the people the desire for +instruction and fostering by all possible means the material +progress of the country; giving facilities and opening new ways to +traffic and commerce; nourishing industries, science and the arts; +beautifying the cities and villages; affording to all the +advantages of modern improvements and spreading the knowledge of +hygiene among the masses."</p></blockquote> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">A Record of Achievement.</span></p> + +<p>In a general way the administration of President Estrada Cabrera has +been described as the political emancipation and the administrative +emancipation. The former topic will be considered in the explanation of +Guatemala's international relations. The administrative reforms which +President Estrada Cabrera has introduced are numerous. He has reduced in +a large measure the public debt and has paid almost entirely the +recognized foreign claims incurred by previous administrations, has +given marked impulse to the construction of highways, bridges, and other +public works; has systematically fostered agriculture; has reformed and +liberalized the Civil Codes and Proceedings; has extended the system of +posts, telegraphs, and telephones; has established patriotic +celebrations of an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>industrial, agricultural, literary and scientific +character; has reorganized the army and the branch of military hygiene, +has enacted rigorous measures of quarantine against yellow fever, +smallpox, and the bubonic pests; has enlarged considerably the public +schools and the charitable institutions by constructing the fine Asylum +for Invalids and Convalescents which bears his name: has improved the +fiscal systems of the municipalities by bringing them to a modern basis, +and has secured special advantages in supplying them with light, water, +and other municipal necessities.</p> + +<p>Generally it further may be said that Guatemala owes to President +Estrada Cabrera:</p> + +<p>The rehabilitation of her railway system.</p> + +<p>The stability of the legal regimen.</p> + +<p>Important reforms in land holdings in the interest of the small land +owners.</p> + +<p>The institution of closer relations with all the nations of the world +and especially with the United States.</p> + +<p>The restoration of public credit.</p> + +<p>A satisfactory immigration policy.</p> + +<p>The re-establishment and reorganization of the public school system, and +a great variety of other measures which form a solid foundation for the +continued development of the country.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Popular Education Promoted.</span></p> + +<p>People in the United States who believe in the "Little Red School House" +as the basis of good citizenship cannot fail to appreciate how +thoroughly President Estrada Cabrera has made primary education a part +of his policy. In the midst of his many measures for the material +development of the country he never has lost sight of the moral +advancement which comes from the school. He believes in education also +as the very best means of creating and fostering the national patriotic +spirit. During his first term he published a decree relating especially +to the education of the youth of the country. He fixed the last Sunday +of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> October of each year for the celebration of a popular festival +throughout the Republic consecrated exclusively to commemorate the +education of the youth of the country and requiring that all the +directors, professors, teachers, and scholars of all the schools take +part in it. This was known as the Festival of Minerva. It is a +sentimental recognition of the value of education, and is the complement +of the practical steps which have been taken. One of his first measures +on coming into the presidency in 1898 was to decree the reopening of the +public schools. From that time he exerted himself constantly to elevate +their standing by providing them with the best facilities, by +reorganizing them in conformity with the most modern plans, and in a +word by encouraging their extension and their progress in every sense.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="illus031.jpg" id="illus031.jpg"></a><img src="images/illus031.jpg" width='501' height='700' alt="PRESIDENT AND MEMBERS OF CABINET" /></div> + +<p class="bold">PRESIDENT AND MEMBERS OF CABINET.</p> + +<p>Besides the primary schools a system of higher education is supported, +and there are normal schools and various faculties such as those of law, +medicine, engineering, etc. Especial attention, however, has been given +to practical education, that is, the fitting of the common people for +their occupations. There are schools of commerce, of manual training, +and of agriculture, as well as an Institute especially for the native +Indians. On this subject of technical education Consul General of the +United States Winslow in a special report said:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"There are few villages in the country where there are no schools. +In the city of Guatemala of late much attention has been given to +education, under the direction of President Manuel Estrada Cabrera, +who has done more along this line than any of his predecessors. +There are in the city of Guatemala 25 public schools, 8 institutes, +and 3 colleges.</p> + +<p>"President Estrada Cabrera has given much attention to his pet +scheme of establishing an industrial school for boys and girls at +his own personal expense, aided by several of the more progressive +citizens of Guatemala city, where the most improved methods of +instruction are to be employed. The President has engaged two able +educators<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> from the United States, and proposes everything shall be +up-to-date.</p> + +<p>"The Boys' Industrial College is in charge of Prof. Y. C. Pilgrim, +a well-known educator of New Jersey, assisted by Professor +Bellingham and wife, who have charge of the languages, and +Professor Lorenzo de Clairmont, who instructs in gymnastics and +military tactics. These are assisted by several native teachers. +The boys are selected from the best families in the Republic and +are limited to 50, and are all required to live in the dormitory. +The college buildings are situated in a tract of land of about 60 +acres, convenient to the city, with a campus where the boys are to +be instructed in the modern sports and military tactics as taught +at West Point, and all orders are to be given in the English +language.</p> + +<p>"The Girls' Industrial School is in charge of Miss Alice Dufour, a +prominent educator of New York City, assisted by several native +instructors. This institution is located in the city and is to be +conducted on the same high plan as the boys' college. The idea is +to teach the principles on which the American home is founded.</p> + +<p>"President Estrada Cabrera means these institutions shall be the +nucleus around which a solid and up-to-date system of education +shall be built for this Republic. It is his ambition to firmly +establish an educational system modeled after that in use in the +United States, where the watchword shall be industry, promptness, +and honesty."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The New York <i>Tribune</i> in a Washington dispatch had this to say on the +same subject:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"American teachers who went to Guatemala some time ago at the +request of the government are sending back interesting accounts of +the progress which that country is making in adopting the +educational methods that obtain in the United States. The +newspapers also have a good deal to say on the subject. President +Estrada Cabrera, who is a progressive man, for several years has +had the ambition to give a new turn to public instruction, and to +make it practical after the system of the United States.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> His idea +is that the youth of the Latin-American countries are especially in +need of newer methods, and of getting away from the metaphysical +systems which created a large class of professional men, for whom +there was no room and who were a drawback to material progress.</p> + +<p>"Some time ago President Estrada Cabrera established what was +called the practical school, which combined technical instruction +and manual training. A few weeks ago exercises were held at the +Escuela Practica, or technical school, and it is concerning this +that the New York teachers have written so encouragingly. The +President delivered an address on the value of work and of +developing through the schools an aptitude for everyday life. +Heretofore he said there had been too much theory and too much that +was purely professional in the system followed. Now that the +aspiration of many years had been realized he was hopeful that the +experiment would be beneficial in giving a new direction to the +national spirit, and would result in the kind of business training +that would fit the Guatemalan youth for the activities of practical +life rather than incline them to the traditions of the past. Under +the direction of the President fields for farm experiments have +been established, and the youth are taught the care of horses and +other farm work, as well as the manual trades. There is special +provision made for athletic sports."</p></blockquote> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">System of Government Explained.</span></p> + +<p>The Government of Guatemala is republican—democratic and +representative—and the supreme power is exercised by three governmental +branches, each independent of the others, called "the legislative +power," "the executive power," and "the judicial power."</p> + +<p>The legislative power is vested in a National Assembly which consists of +a single house composed of one deputy for each 20,000 inhabitants or +fraction of that number exceeding 10,000. The deputies are elected by +popular vote for four years, but one-half of the Assembly is renewed +each two years so that each time that it meets it contains<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> an adequate +number of experienced members. Annual sessions are held lasting two +months, beginning March 1, but they can be extended one month longer in +case of necessity. For the transaction of business during its recesses +the Assembly appoints seven of its members who form a body called "the +Permanent Commission." This commission, as well as the executive, can +call the Assembly to meet in extraordinary sessions.</p> + +<p>The executive power is exercised by the President of the Republic, who, +for the transaction of public business, appoints six Ministers or +Secretaries of State, who have charge of the portfolios of Foreign +Relations, Government and Justice, the Treasury and Public Credit, War, +Public Works, and Public Instruction.</p> + +<p>There is also a Council of State, a purely advisory body, which is +composed of the Cabinet Ministers and nine other members, of whom five +are appointed by the Assembly and four by the President. These +appointments are for two years.</p> + +<p>The judicial power is exercised by the courts and judges of the +Republic, organized as follows:</p> + +<p>The Supreme Court of Justice, which sits at the capital of Guatemala and +is composed of the President of the Judicial Power, four Magistrates, +and an Attorney (Fiscal).</p> + +<p>Six Courts or Tribunals of Appeals, composed of three Magistrates, of +whom one presides, and an Attorney (Fiscal). Three of these Courts sit +at the Capital and one in each of the capitals of the Departments of +Quezaltenango, Alta Verapaz, and Jalapa. The Magistrates and Attorneys +are elected, by popular vote.</p> + +<p>The Judges of the Courts of First Instance, of whom there are six in the +Capital, three in Quezaltenango, two in San Marcos, and one in each of +the remaining Departments of the Republic. These Judges are appointed by +the Executive from three names proposed by the Supreme Court of Justice.</p> + +<p>Finally, the Justices of the Peace who pronounce oral judgments and are +elected by the people of the districts in which they exercise their +functions.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p><p>For the exercise of the political, civil, and military administration +of the country it is divided into twenty-two Departments, each of which +has a Governor (Jefe Politico) invested with the executive functions. +For the administration of the local affairs of each district there are +popularly elected Municipal Councils. The service of the members of the +Councils is for one year, is obligatory for the citizens of the +respective districts, and is not remunerated.</p> + +<p>The Constitution of the Republic gives to all those who live in the +country the most ample guaranties of liberty, equality, and security of +their persons, their honor, and their property; of freedom of movement +and of assembly, of professions, of industries, and of commerce; of the +right to dispose of their property, to address petitions to the +authorities and to defend their interests before them; of liberty of +conscience, inasmuch as there is no official religion; of the right to +freely express their opinions, whether by speech, or by writing, or by +means of the press, without being subject to censure; of liberty to give +or receive instruction, if they should so prefer, in private educational +establishments; of the right to have their residences, their property, +their correspondence, and other papers respected as inviolable; of the +right of <i>habeas corpus</i>; of liberty of defence in judicial proceedings, +etc.</p> + +<p>Primary instruction is obligatory, and that which is sustained by the +nation is secular and free. There is no imprisonment for debt. Marriage +is considered a simple civil contract; but those who desire can have it +solemnized in a religious form. Absolute divorce can be obtained in +cases defined by the law.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>CHAPTER III.</span> <span class="smaller"><span class="smcap">The Soil and its Riches.</span></span></h2> + +<p>The soil of Guatemala is remarkable in the vast extent and great variety +of two classes of products which are unusual within the same degrees of +latitude, that is, it produces both tropical and temperate staples of +agriculture in great profusion. The soil grows coffee, sugar-cane, +cacao, bananas, tobacco, cotton, india rubber, vanilla, sarsaparilla, +and a long list of medicinal plants, while it likewise produces the +cereals, wheat and Indian corn, which are only found in temperate +regions, giving two and in some places three crops of these annually. +There are also endless kinds of valuable hardwood, mahogany, rosewood, +ebony, cedar and the like, which are especially tropical timber, and at +the same time pine and oak exist in the mountain regions of the +interior. Besides all this the grasses grown are especially adapted to +live stock, and cattle raising and dairying are very profitable +industries.</p> + +<p>The British Consul General in an official report to the Foreign Office +in London had this to say about the capabilities of the soil:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"The tropical situation of the country, the proximity of every +portion to the sea on both coasts, the diversity of altitude and +consequently of temperature, combine to make the agricultural +capabilities of Guatemala equal to any in the world. Every kind of +crop, from those of the tropical coast regions to those of the cold +highlands (the latter having a climate corresponding with that of +northern Europe in summer) may be raised. There are districts where +even four crops of maize (Indian corn) are obtained in one year. It +is a common theory that the manures are unnecessary, as the heavy +rains wash down the rich soils from the sides of the mountains and +fertilize the plains.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> The great secret is therefore for the +agriculturist to adapt his cultivation to the nature of the soil +and climate and his interest would be advanced by a judicious +rotation of crops."</p></blockquote> + +<p>A breezy description, though an accurate one, was given of the soil of +Guatemala by a correspondent of the Washington <i>Star</i>. Wrote this +correspondent:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Instead of my own impressions of the country I would rather give +those of a North Carolina business man. He was taking the rest cure +by means of a sea voyage to San Francisco and deflected his +itinerary for a week's land journey. We traveled together to the +capital and also made a trip to the port of Champerico over the +railroad extension which has opened up new and untouched territory. +It was his first view of tropical lands except from the ship's deck.</p> + +<p>"On landing at San José the North Carolina man looked with awe and +admiration as every tourist is bound to do on the dominating +volcano peaks Fuego and Agua, Fire and Water. But while he never +ceased to wonder at the richness of the scenery his practical +instincts asserted themselves and he punctuated the information +given him about climate, soil and products with keen observations. +He confessed that on the vessel he thought they were 'stringing' +him when they told him that the posts for the barbed wire fences +just grew, but when he saw countless miles of trees in straight +rows with the wire stretched along the trunks he paid his tribute +also to climate and soil. He knew that naturally trees don't grow +in straight rows and he found the explanation. The posts are poles +cut from the trees' branches and when stuck in the ground they +shoot up so rapidly that they soon are trees.</p> + +<p>"The North Carolina observer never got over his wonder at the soil. +The railroad cuts gave him a chance to see that it was not surface +richness and he easily grasped the explanation. The vegetation +grows to a certain height, then dies away, rots and forms fresh +layers of richness.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> This process going on for centuries has made +the fertility of the land inexhaustible.</p> + +<p>"The utility of volcanic eruptions was new to him and was explained +on the trip to Champerico. This is the great coffee region. It +comes within the sphere of influence of the volcano Santa Maria. +When Santa Maria was sprinkling both the sea and land with pumice +stone and ashes, on many of the fincas (plantations) there was just +enough of this lava soil after the rains had come and washed away +the surface of the deposit to renew the productiveness."</p></blockquote> + +<p>In another way an idea of the varied products of agricultural industry +can be had from an account given in the British Consular reports of a +model plantation. This plantation consisted of 3,000 acres. In a given +year it produced 1,200,000 pounds of coffee, 300,000 pounds of sugar, +300,000 bottles of the by-product of sugar known as aguardiente or cane +rum, 22,000 gallons of milk. Two thousand head of cattle were raised. On +this plantation from 900 to 1,300 laborers were employed.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Coffee of World-Wide Fame.</span></p> + +<p>As is well known, Guatemala's most valuable agricultural product is +coffee. The fame of Guatemala coffee is worldwide and it commands the +highest prices. The production in average years is about 70,500,000 +pounds, though in a recent year it exceeded 80,000,000 pounds. The most +productive regions are in the departments of Guatemala, Amatitlan, +Sacatepequez, Solola, Retalhuleu, Quezaltenango, San Marcos, Alta +Verapaz, Baja Verapaz, Chimaltenango, Santa Rosa and Escuintla.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="illus041.jpg" id="illus041.jpg"></a><img src="images/illus041.jpg" width='700' height='446' alt="VISTA OF AGUNA PLANTATION" /></div> + +<p class="bold">VISTA OF AGUNA PLANTATION.</p> + +<p>The altitudes at which the coffee plant is most successfully cultivated +are between 1,500 feet and 5,000 feet above sea level, according to the +locality and quality of the soil. The temperature at which the greatest +productiveness is obtained varies from a minimum of 60° Fahrenheit to a +maximum of 90°. In the lowlands the trees have to be shaded in order to +prevent the leaves from being scorched<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> by the heat. There is an +abundance of native trees which answers this purpose. Occasionally, too, +bananas are raised in conjunction with coffee since their broad leaves +furnish an excellent protection.</p> + +<p>In districts where the mean altitude is 4,500 feet a different sort of +protection is necessary in order to shelter the coffee leaves from the +northern winds which blow during the months of December, January, and +February. In these high altitudes the ranges of hills form the best +natural protection. To bring the coffee plant to full production from +five to seven years are required, though after two years the bush will +produce about two pounds of the berry annually. The coffee plants are +raised in nurseries and afterwards transplanted to the cafetales or +coffee plantations. The critical season for the crop is the blooming +period. A heavy rainfall while the trees are in flower will seriously +damage the plants by washing away the pollen and thus preventing +fructification. This period lasts three or four days when the blossoms +fall and the cherry or berry begins to appear. The cherry reaches +maturity in October and is ready for gathering and pulping, that is, for +the removal of the outer shell and pulp. After this process it is washed +and carried to dry, spread out in brick paved yards exposed to the sun. +The grain is known as <i>pergamino</i>, or shell coffee, after the removal of +the red pulp, while it retains the inner white or yellow parchment +covering. After this parchment is removed it is known as <i>oro</i>, clean +coffee, and this is the common commercial term.</p> + +<p>So many elements enter into the cost of planting and bringing to +maturity a coffee plantation that it is difficult to estimate the +expenditure necessary to ensure a given profit. Experienced coffee +growers are guided largely by their knowledge of the local conditions +and requirements. However, a reasonable amount of capital in the +beginning is necessary and many investors possessing the capital prefer +to buy fincas or plantations that are already producing.</p> + +<p>The government of Guatemala lays an export tax of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> one dollar in gold. +Germany takes the bulk of the Guatemala product, though Great Britain is +a large buyer and the United States is receiving larger quantities from +year to year. With the increased facilities for transportation there +would appear to be an excellent opportunity for dealers to make a +specialty of Guatemala coffee in the United States, for the article once +introduced would be sure to have an increased consumption.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Sugar and other Profitable Products.</span></p> + +<p>In 1890 Guatemala was producing barely enough sugar for its own +consumption. In 1904 it exported 6,000,000 pounds to the United States. +New Orleans is the nearest market, though shipments also may be made to +Brooklyn. The product consists of white loaf sugar, panela or coarse +brown cakes, from which the cane rum is made, miel or molasses, and +mascabado, or inferior grades. The sugar cane is of excellent quality +and the production is abundant, especially along the hot coast +districts. The departments of Escuintla, Amatitlan, and Baja Verapaz are +the districts in which the largest areas are under cultivation. As a +rule the small sugar mills are crude and modern machinery has not been +introduced to a great extent, although the largest plantations are +already supplied with the latest improvements. With the introduction on +a larger scale of modern machinery and the latest processes the sugar +industry would be certain to afford satisfactory profits.</p> + +<p>Cacao of a very high quality is produced in Guatemala and the native +article commands much higher prices than that produced in other +countries and brought to Guatemala for sale. The productive regions are +the <i>tierras calientes</i> or hot coast lands. The principal cacao +producing districts are Escuintla, Suchitepequez, Solola, and +Retalhuleu. The bean is most productive at an altitude of 800 to 2,000 +feet. In some cases the shrub produces a pound of beans every four +months and after reaching maturity it is said to produce without +interruption for one hundred years.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the superior quality of the Guatemala<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> cacao the +industry has not been carried on systematically, possibly because five +or six years are required to secure the first crop. In the last year the +total output was only 34,000 pounds, but the steady demand for cacao and +the certainty of good prices justifies the investment of capital which +can await five or six years for the first returns. The gathering of the +cacao beans requires very little machinery and few laborers. Chiefly +care must be taken not to hurt the bean or almond when breaking the +fruit wherein they are contained. One day of fermentation must then be +given to them, after which they remain exposed to the sun for six or +eight days, when they are ready to be sent to the market.</p> + +<p>One of the most profitable of future industries in Guatemala undoubtedly +is that of banana culture. There are vast productive regions on the +Atlantic slope and these are certain to be cultivated since the building +of the Northern Railway insures opening up the lands by giving access to +the New Orleans market within the time that is necessary for gathering +and shipping the fruit. The annual production is now about 800,000 +bunches, of which one-half are consumed at home and the balance shipped +to the United States. It is estimated that within a year after the +Northern Railway is completed the shipments to the United States will +exceed 750,000 bunches per annum and will soon amount to 1,000,000 +bunches.</p> + +<p>Tobacco is produced in a number of districts and there is much suitable +soil for it, but up to this time it has been raised only for local +consumption. Rice is also produced in the hot coast lands. Cotton is +grown and experiments have shown that the Sea Island cotton thrives in +Guatemala.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Rubber Cultivation an Inviting Field.</span></p> + +<p>For investments of capital that is willing to wait returns there is no +more inviting field than the cultivation of india rubber, which grows +wild in Guatemala. Each year the demand for rubber increases and the +price rises. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> coast regions where the wild tree flourishes are +especially adapted to the cultivation of the product. The subject has +been given very careful attention by the Guatemalan government, which +caused investigation to be made by scientists who were familiar with the +native agriculture. The result of these investigations has been +published from time to time.</p> + +<p>The wild gum tree is tall with smooth greenish white bark. The milk +which is the mercantile product is contained principally in the fibres +which are attached to the woody portion of the tree between it and the +bark. The milk contains about 60% of water and other substances, while +the remaining 40% represents the salable product. The climate most +appropriate for the growth of the rubber tree is that of the hot coast +lands at an altitude not exceeding 1,500 feet. The yield of the +cultivated rubber trees has been estimated as high as three pounds +yearly from the sixth year, but the best authorities do not think that +the trees should be tapped before the ninth year and then the grower +should be satisfied with an annual yield of two and a half to three +pounds of milk, which will insure one pound of rubber.</p> + +<p>An estimate of the cost and probable yield of a rubber plantation as +made by Señor Horta, a leading authority, was that a plantation of +100,000 trees would require ten caballerias (about 1,100 to 1,200 +acres), and would have cost after ten years about one dollar per tree. +This expense could in part be met by secondary cultivation. According to +the calculations one crop after ten years should produce double the +amount expended in that time.</p> + +<p>The government encourages the cultivation of rubber, a decree having +been issued in 1899 which provided that for every 20,000 rubber plants +of four years of age and planted after the date of the decree the owner +should receive one caballeria (112 acres) of uncultivated national land. +The government, however, does not endorse nor recommend the promotion of +rubber plantations by stock companies which seek chiefly to sell the +stock among small investors<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> in the United States. All such schemes +should be carefully investigated before the shares are bought and the +leading facts in regard to rubber production, including the necessity of +a period of at least ten years for the successful development of a +plantation, should be kept in mind.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Bounty for Hennequen.</span></p> + +<p>The soil of Guatemala in the opinion of experts is especially adapted to +the cultivation of fibre plants of which the most valuable is hennequen +or hemp. Maguey or wild hennequen grows in various localities, +particularly in the eastern districts, where there is a large area which +it is believed can be brought under profitable cultivation for +commercial purposes. President Estrada Cabrera, in order to encourage +the cultivation of hennequen, has provided that a bounty shall be paid +to the cultivators of the plant, the scale of payment being graduated +according to the size of the plantation. Since it takes from four to +five years for the plant to mature the cultivators are allowed to +receive one-half the bounty two years after the hennequen is planted and +the balance at the end of the four years. A bounty is also to be paid +for the exportation of each 100 pounds of hennequen and the machinery +necessary on the plantation is to be imported free of duty. As a further +inducement to engage in the cultivation of the fibre the natives who +produce hennequen are to be exempted from military service in a +proportion fixed relatively to the number of acres under cultivation. +This experiment with hennequen is especially important in view of the +fact that soil which is not suitable for coffee, sugar cane or cacao is +thought to be especially well adapted to this plant.</p> + +<p>The number of medicinal plants produced in Guatemala is infinite. One +scientist gives a list of 339, which includes many balsams and the +aromatic plants, such as sarsaparilla and vanilla. The conditions of +vanilla cultivation are similar to those in Mexico. The vine after five +years is in full bearing and will produce from 15 to 40 beans. It is +estimated that a five-acre vanilla plantation will yield<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> sufficient +income to render its owner independent, but this is only by the most +careful attention in cultivation.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Many Varieties of Valuable Wood.</span></p> + +<p>There are said to be 150 kinds of Guatemala wood which are commercially +valuable, and the number of species exceeds 400. The timber area +includes the littoral forests in a narrow belt along the Pacific and +Atlantic coasts; the humid forests mixed with the prairie fields which +cover the plains from the foot of the Andean Cordilleras to the Pacific; +the moist forests of the hot zone and the temperate zone found along the +foothills of the volcanic chain and in the northern and eastern parts of +the country; the humid forests of the cold zone; the pine and oak +forests in the upland plains; the savannas and chaparral consisting of +small trees and bushes; the savannas with pines along the Atlantic coast +and the savannas of the cold zone on the highest tablelands of the +mountain.</p> + +<p>In the report of the Intercontinental Railway Survey Lieutenant Hill +gives a list of trees found in southeastern Guatemala which is another +illustration of the varied timber resources of the country. The list is +as follows:</p> + +<p>Aconacaste, conacaste, guanacaste—a light brown wood rather soft and +resembling inferior walnut.</p> + +<p>Amarillo—yellowish, hard, plentiful, strong; lasts well in water or +ground; used for pillars and girders in native houses.</p> + +<p>Cedro—reddish, easily worked; used much for boards, not very strong, +warps easily.</p> + +<p>Caoba—mahogany.</p> + +<p>Chichipate—hard, fine-grained; used in wagon-making.</p> + +<p>Chiche—straight grained; lasts well above ground.</p> + +<p>Chico—straight grained; takes high polish.</p> + +<p>Granadillo—dark brown, strong, plentiful; good for construction.</p> + +<p>Guachipilin—good for construction.</p> + +<p>Guapinol—hard, resembles oak in texture.</p> + +<p>Jicaro—bears gourdlike fruit; plentiful on llanos, used in making +saddle-trees.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p><p>Laurel—resembles chestnut; used for furniture.</p> + +<p>Madre cacao—hard, takes fine polish; good for posts.</p> + +<p>Mario or Palo Colorado—a fine wood somewhat like mahogany.</p> + +<p>Matilishuate—grows large and straight; used for wagon boxes.</p> + +<p>Mora—dyewood.</p> + +<p>Jocote de Fraile—handsome wood, takes high polish.</p> + +<p>Ronron—fine, hardwood, takes high polish.</p> + +<p>Tempisque—reddish, resembles mahogany in weight and texture.</p> + +<p>Volador—fine tree, tall, straight trunk; good for bridges and roofs.</p> + +<p>With such a vast wealth of timber the importance of the railway projects +which open up the forest regions and make the markets of the United +States and Europe accessible will be appreciated.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Encouragement to Livestock Industries.</span></p> + +<p>Cattle raising and dairy farming are among the most profitable +agricultural industries of Guatemala, while horse-breeding also can be +made to pay unusually well. The native horse is small but very strong +and is tireless. The race horses and others obtained through the +crossing with foreign breeds imported from the United States and from +Spain, England and South America have given most satisfactory results.</p> + +<p>Dairy farming especially in the vicinity of the cities yields large +dividends. The cattle are largely three-quarters or half-bred natives +and Holsteins and Durhams. The pure native cows give much richer milk +than the imported stock, but they yield a very small quantity. The milk +of the thoroughbred imported cows is thin, owing probably to the +unsuitable nature of the fodder, and thus the half-bred cows are the +most profitable.</p> + +<p>The highlands of the interior afford very fair grazing for cattle +throughout the year. The climate is mild and equable and the stock can +remain in the pastures from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> January till December, while no losses are +suffered from severe weather in winter. Most of the country is well +watered. The native mules are superior to the horses for long journeys +or heavy loads and as a rule they command higher prices. Pigs are raised +with little difficulty and fetch a high price, since pork is one of the +favorite foods on many of the plantations and in the villages inhabited +by Indians. The hogs are allowed to run loose and feed on nourishing +roots, acorns and maize. The sheep industry is capable of development at +the hands of experienced sheep-raisers. There are many flocks and the +quality of both the mutton and the wool is capable of improvement.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Mines and Mining.</span></p> + +<p>The mineral riches of Guatemala, while not unknown, may be said to be +unexploited. Owing to the varied geological formations the belief both +of geologists and of practical miners is that they offer a promising +field for development. The minerals include quartz and gold, silver and +galenas, copper, coal and lignite, manganese, asbestos, graphite, +kaolin, opals, slate, alum, marble, silver, mica, iron, sulphur, lead.</p> + +<p>The mining archives of colonial days show that between the years 1627 +and 1820 more than 1,300 mines of gold, silver, lead, copper, tin, iron, +and one of quicksilver, were discovered and worked, and were a source of +great revenue both to the Church and the State. History records that +during the earliest Spanish occupancy of that country enormous +quantities of gold and silver were taken from those mines. At one time +more than one hundred and fifty very rich mines were worked there. From +one group the mint of Guatemala coined silver to the amount of +$43,000,000, besides what was shipped directly to Europe.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="illus051.jpg" id="illus051.jpg"></a><img src="images/illus051.jpg" width='700' height='412' alt="BRIDGE OVER MOTAGUA RIVER" /></div> + +<p class="bold">BRIDGE OVER MOTAGUA RIVER.</p> + +<p>In an official report made by the Director of the chemical laboratory to +the Minister of Finance these statements are made, based on samples that +had been submitted for analysis and which were obtained for the most +part in the eastern region of the country.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p><blockquote><p>"Zinc, copper, lead, and silver predominate in these regions, +being generally found in argentiferous blends and galenas, and +sometimes both metals in conjunction with carbonates of copper. The +proportion of the lead varies from 20 to 25% in the galenas and the +blends contain from 15 to 40% of zinc.</p> + +<p>"The proportion of silver varies from 200 grammes to 7 kilos (17 +pounds), allowing one to calculate on an average of from 2 to 3 +kilos. The beds extend to the tablelands on which the capital is +situated, stretching as far as the Department of Jalapa, where the +lead disappears sometimes completely, the silver being found alone. +The veins stretch to the valley of the Motagua, disappearing for +some time on the left bank of that river and reappearing again to +the north of Solamá, following a straight line to Huehuetenango, +although the quantity of silver in this region is less than in the +beds in the southeast of the Republic.</p> + +<p>"Copper, one of the metals which is most abundant in the country, +is generally found in oxicarbonate in beds of sediment. It appears +in the neighborhood of the capital and various other points. These +beds continue up to the Mexican frontier along the banks of the +river Salega and round the town of Cuilco, but the nature of the +metal changes little by little, passing from the carbonates to +oxisulphates mixed with iron and soon the copper disappears +altogether. In the eastern region abundant deposits of carbonates +of copper are found principally in the Department of Chiquimula, +mixed in many cases with other metals such as zinc, lead, and silver.</p> + +<p>"Lignite of excellent quality is found in beds near the Atlantic +coast, a very great consideration in the development of mineral industries."</p></blockquote> + +<p>Captain Rae of the United States, who spent several years in Guatemala +and who wrote authoritatively concerning the mineral resources of the +country, said that he had found near the northwestern frontier large +quantities of low grade gold sulphuret ores and also rich lead ores +carrying a small percentage of silver as well as some good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> copper +carbonates. He said that the lead ores were of the best clean +carbonates, easily smelted by fuel alone, and had been rudely exploited +principally for the lead they contained. These silver lead mines of low +grades of silver were in the vicinity of Chiantla, and the belt +extended, he said, northwest, breaking out again in heavy deposits +bearing silver from $12 to $40 a ton and lead 80%.</p> + +<p>Captain Rae gave the following further details:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Still further east in the Lacodor country are found immense +deposits of the same character of ore, which seemed to lie as if +thrown up in volcanic upheavals. In some places the lead is found +in small nuggets entirely pure. Large deposits of black lead or +plumbago exist both north and south of Huehuetenango of a good +class and ready for commerce.</p> + +<p>"Auriferous gravel beds are found at different points on the Rio +Grande in the Department of Baja Verapaz which prospect well for +heavy course gold. The working of these beds is confined to the +immediate river banks, done by the natives in a very rude manner, +merely scooping out the choicest streaks of goldbearing gravel and +washing it in wooden bowls. These beds seem to be well defined and +extend back through the flats to the hills.</p> + +<p>"Also some gold formation is found along the Rio Plátanos and Vacas +two affluents of the Rio Grande that flow into it from the south +side and nearly opposite to one of these goldbearing gravel beds. +Further down the river on the north mountain range there exists +asbestos in several places and from a surface prospect the texture +is of a good variety and free from all foreign substances varying +in color from deep gray to snowy white, the fibres measuring as +much as 6 inches in length.</p> + +<p>"In the Department of Izabal lying on the Atlantic or gulf coast, +on the lower waters of the Motagua and Polichis rivers, there +exists rich and extensive beds of gold placers which have been +worked for several years in a primitive way and have yielded a +large amount of gold dust.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p><p>"In the foothills of Livingston stone coal has been found of the +lignite variety and said to make good combustible. On the opposite +side of the Gulf of Dulce from the coal deposits are large deposits +of magnetic iron ores, ranging from 60 to 70 per cent. of iron. +These deposits lie only a few leagues from water communication on +the Gulf and also close to the Northern Railway."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The following description of the various mineral districts is from <i>The +Bristol Board of Trade journal</i>:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"The principal known mining districts of Guatemala are situated on +the eastern boundary, both to the north and also the south, in the +Departments of Chiquimula and Izabal, adjoining the Republic of +Honduras and that of Salvador. These districts are mountainous, +and, owing to their complete isolation and lack of communication +with the other parts of the Republic and the difficulty of +procuring supplies, there being at the moment very few roads, this +part is not generally known to the outer world.</p> + +<p>"On the western boundary, in the Department of Huehuetenango and +near to Chiantla, there are said to be very rich copper mines, +similar to those of Chiapas, in Mexico. These are now being +explored, but so far no copper has been found, though the district +is rich in lead and a small percentage of silver. The assays that +have come to hand show 56 per cent. of lead and 40 ounces per ton +of silver. In many other parts of the Republic mines have been +discovered and mining rights secured, such as at San Cristobal and +Aguil, in the Department of Alta Verapaz; near Rabinal and Pichec, +in Baja Verapaz; at San Pedro, in the Department of Guatemala; also +at Mataquescuintla, in the mines of Algeria and Rosario, in the +Department of Santa Rosa; at Zalcuapa and Joyabaj, on the Rio +Grande, in the Department of El Quiche; but the only mines that +have recently been worked, and which have given and are giving fair +results, are those of Quebradas de Oro, on the River Bobos, in the +Department of Izabal, where gold has been washed in paying quantities.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p><p>"The district where mines have been denounced (pre-empted) and in +some instances worked, lies between the Rio de Concepcion to the +north and the Rio de las Minas to the south; the mining district +alluded to is nearly due east of Los Sillones, on the finca of San +José. This estate is in the Department of Chiquimula, and a society +was formed under the name of Société Horta y Cia., which obtained +mining rights from the Government for a term of fifteen years with +the right to import free of duty all material, machinery, and +necessary appliances. But until the present time very little has +been done, owing to the isolated position of these mines and the +difficulty of establishing communication, though the construction +of a small line, which might connect with the Guatemala or Northern +Railway at Chiquimula, has been under consideration, but the funds +for the carrying out of this project have, it is understood, been +lacking. This, if built, would do away with the transportation difficulty."</p></blockquote> + +<p>There is no difficulty in the work of mining in Guatemala since the +climate in the mining regions is temperate and healthful.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>CHAPTER IV.</span> <span class="smaller"><span class="smcap">Trade and Markets.</span></span></h2> + +<p>Guatemala, because of its nearness, is an unusually good market for the +products of the United States. With the increase in the transportation +facilities which will result from railway building and other +transportation enterprises that will add to the ocean shipping +facilities the business should increase greatly if merchants and +manufacturers in the United States choose to take advantage of it.</p> + +<p>Official support is given this view by the reports of the American +Consuls in Guatemala. Consul General Winslow has frequently called +attention to the advantages which may be obtained. In one report he +stated that large quantities of groceries, flour, potatoes, shoes, +drygoods, and clothing come from the United States, but Germany and +England seem to have the lead in machinery and hardware. There is surely +a fine opening in these latter lines for exporters of the United States, +but they must be in position to push their goods personally, to give +longer credits, and to take more pains with packing. In all, it is safe +to say, there are $8,000,000 of American capital invested in Guatemala +and there is an opening for much more, if it is backed by the right kind +of management.</p> + +<p>In a report, to the British Foreign Office in 1905 Mr. Hervey, the +English Consul, stated that as far as actual volume of business was +concerned, as shown in the imports and exports, there appeared to have +been a distinct improvement in the general trade of the country compared +with immediately preceding years. The imports were the largest for the +past seven years. The revenue of the country showed a great improvement +all around, being, in fact, nearly double that of 1903, the most +important increases being shown in import and export duties, the former +benefiting by the 50 per cent. of their total payable in gold, and the +latter by the tax of $1 gold per quintal which has been collected +throughout the year.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p><p>The outlook for the future was, the report said, more favorable than it +had been for many years. The completion of the Guatemala Northern +Railway would shorten the distance from Europe and the United States and +promote trade. Already German and British steamers were calling at +Puerto Barrios in addition to those of the United Fruit Company. The +greater steadiness of exchange and the fall in the gold premium were +further factors of importance in restoring confidence. With continued +peace, and with it the prospect of increased labor facilities, so that +the agricultural and mineral wealth to be won from the soil may attain +to its fullest development, brighter days were dawning for Guatemala.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Articles Brought from Other Countries.</span></p> + +<p>A general statement regarding the articles which Guatemala buys abroad +and which therefore are of interest to exporters is as follows:</p> + +<p>The principal imports consist of drygoods, almost exclusively cotton +manufactures, brought from Great Britain, the United States, and +Germany. In this branch British manufacture commands the market, the +imports from the United States and Germany being relatively small. The +more important articles are gray cloths; bleached shirtings, 7-8 and 9-8 +prints; fancy cloths; gray, white, and blue drills; colored drills; +handkerchiefs; gray and dyed yarns; Turkey red yarns; sewing cottons; +trimmings; cotton blankets, etc. Of these goods about 75 per cent. are +of British origin, 15 per cent. American, and 10 per cent. German. +American manufacturers compete chiefly in drills, denims, blankets, +prints, gray cloths, and bleached shirtings, while German goods imported +consist chiefly of drills, prints, Turkey red yarns, blankets, and trimmings.</p> + +<p>Woolen goods are not in very great demand; the principal lines are +blankets, shawls, braids, hats, Berlin wool, and but few piece goods.</p> + +<p>Hats are imported mostly from the United States, Germany, and only a few +from the United Kingdom; shawls<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> from Germany, principally; piece goods +from Germany, France, and the United Kingdom.</p> + +<p>Silks are not in demand, excepting floss silks imported from China, +ribbons from Switzerland, France, and Germany. Regarding hardware +generally, approximately 50 per cent. is imported from Germany, 30 per +cent. from the United States, and 20 per cent. from the United Kingdom.</p> + +<p>The principal imports from the United States consist of machetes, axes, +and hoes, besides tools generally of the better classes, corn mills, +plows, sewing machinery, outfits for building purposes, saws, barbed +wire, files, screws, cutlery, ropes, brushes, enameled goods, paints, +and varnishes and breadstuffs.</p> + +<p>The imports from the United Kingdom are chiefly composed of +galvanized-iron sheets, galvanized-iron goods, coffee machinery, copper +sheets, tin goods, machetes, hoes, sickles, picks, pickaxes, saltpeter, +pans (used on sugar plantations), iron sheets, saws, padlocks, cutlery, +saddlery, bits, spurs, brass valves and cocks, pottery, cartridges, also +preserves and biscuits.</p> + +<p>From Germany are brought all kinds of cheap tools, machinery, sewing +machines, cutlery, machetes, bar iron, enameled goods, pottery, locks, +screws, nails, window glass, brushes, paper, matches, stearin and +ceresin, part of these goods being also brought from Belgium and the +Netherlands, while France ships tools for shoemakers' and saddlers' use.</p> + +<p>The articles which Guatemala buys in exchange for her coffee, sugar, +fruits, woods and other products in the customs classification are +divided into three groups; that is, articles of prime necessity, +articles of luxury or convenience, and articles for the industries.</p> + +<p>The first and most important group includes cotton and woolen goods, +wheat flour, rice, corn, potatoes, salt, wax and stearine candles, +matches, soap, petroleum, glass and earthenware, and kitchen hardware.</p> + +<p>The second group covers the finer grade of woolens, silks, mineral +waters, liquors, preserves in cans, manufactured tobacco, glassware, +porcelain, toys, musical instruments, perfumery, etc.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p><p>The third group consists of coal, woodworking machinery, cured hides, +raw cotton, sacks, lubricating oils, farm implements and a variety of +machinery.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Class of Imports from the United States.</span></p> + +<p>The shipments with which up to this time the United States has been most +successful in furnishing Guatemala can be understood from a summary of +the articles sent out under a consular invoice from various ports. The +exportations from the port of New Orleans during a recent year were as +follows:</p> + +<table summary="exportations"> + <tr> + <td class="left"> NAME OF ARTICLES.</td> + <td>VALUE. </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Linseed oil</td> + <td>$168</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Petroleum, etc.</td> + <td>2,534</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Tar</td> + <td>255</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Live animals</td> + <td>5,447</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Rice</td> + <td>974</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Empty barrels</td> + <td>116</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Coal</td> + <td>185</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Cement</td> + <td>422</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Cistern materials</td> + <td>648</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Dynamite</td> + <td>249</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Drugs</td> + <td>1,972</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Hardware</td> + <td>19,468</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Cotton goods</td> + <td>45,733</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Iron bars</td> + <td>338</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Wheat flour</td> + <td>15,817</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Surgical instruments</td> + <td>281</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Locomotives</td> + <td>7,465</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Earthenware</td> + <td>1,122</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Manufactured woods, railroad ties, etc.</td> + <td>55,772</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Indian corn</td> + <td>16,335</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Malt</td> + <td>474</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Cable rope</td> + <td>1,874</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Gentlemen's furnishings</td> + <td>2,724</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Gasolene motors</td> + <td>285</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Furniture</td> + <td>657</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Umbrellas</td> + <td>444</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>Provisions</td> + <td>23,127</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Bridge material</td> + <td>18,794</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Salt</td> + <td>2,136</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Hats</td> + <td>452</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Whiskey</td> + <td>978</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Shoes</td> + <td>1,531</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p>From the port of Mobile shipments were as follows:</p> + +<table summary="port of Mobile shipments"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Wheat flour</td> + <td>$10,196</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Cotton goods</td> + <td>9,916</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Canned meats</td> + <td>2,108</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Cornmeal</td> + <td>1,316</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Hardware</td> + <td>804</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Alimentary conserves</td> + <td>777</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Butter</td> + <td>676</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Beer in bottles</td> + <td>572</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Petroleum</td> + <td>523</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Vegetables</td> + <td>507</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Coal</td> + <td>420</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Hay</td> + <td>405</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Dried fish</td> + <td>376</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Footwear</td> + <td>362</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Stearine candles</td> + <td>317</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Matches</td> + <td>300</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Condensed milk</td> + <td>238</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Soap</td> + <td>228</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Lard</td> + <td>206</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Fruit preserves</td> + <td>204</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Cheese</td> + <td>173</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Rice</td> + <td>168</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Miscellaneous food products</td> + <td>1,700</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p>The exports from New York, which average about $75,000 per month, are +composed chiefly of the following articles:</p> + +<table summary="port of Mobile shipments"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Galvanized wire</td> + <td class="left">Lubricating oil</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Alimentary articles</td> + <td class="left">Electrical equipments</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Betum</td> + <td class="left">Iron pipes</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>Glassware</td> + <td class="left">Cured hides</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Beer</td> + <td class="left">Drugs</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Photographic material </td> + <td class="left">Hardware</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Cotton goods</td> + <td class="left">Agricultural implements</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Soap</td> + <td class="left">Jewelry</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Earthenware</td> + <td class="left">Sewing machines</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Railway material</td> + <td class="left">Medicines</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Typewriters</td> + <td class="left">Miscellaneous machinery</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Plated goods</td> + <td class="left">Perfumery</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Paper</td> + <td class="left">Petroleum</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Watches</td> + <td class="left">Weighing scales</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Hats</td> + <td class="left">Whiskey</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Chintz</td> + <td class="left">Leather ware</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p>From the port of San Francisco the annual shipments amount to +approximately $1,000,000. The principal articles are flour, wheat, hops, +corn, barley, oats, cotton, furniture, machinery, beers, wines, and +whiskies. The articles imported at San Francisco are chiefly coffee, +sugar, cacao, rubber, hides and lumber.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">How the Commerce is Divided.</span></p> + +<p>While the United States has a fair share of the trade the proportion is +not as large as it might be if systematic efforts were made. In the last +year for which statistics are available the foreign commerce of +Guatemala amounted to $12,593,000, of which $5,041,000 was imports and +$7,552,000 exports. Germany, which takes the bulk of the coffee crop, is +the largest consumer. In the year quoted it took 53.79% of the total +exportations from Guatemala North America (chiefly United States) +25.86%. England, 15.37%, and France 2.4%.</p> + +<p>The exportation of the various countries to Guatemala in percentage +terms was as follows: United States 36.59%; England, 22.62%; Germany, +19.97%; France, 9.21%; South America, 2.82%; Central America, 1.83%; +Mexico, 1.69%; Spain, 1.54%; Italy, 1.32%; Belgium and Holland, 1.27%; +other countries, 1.14%.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p><p>In detail the value of the goods imported by Guatemala in the given +year was: from Germany, $1,019,000; United States, $1,442,000; England, +$1,038,000; France, $175,000; Belgium, $114,000. No other country except +the above exported to Guatemala goods exceeding $100,000 in value. Of +the exports from Guatemala, chiefly coffee, as previously stated, +Germany took $3,508,000; the United States $2,292,000; England, +$1,282,000.</p> + +<p>President Estrada Cabrera in his annual message commented on the balance +of trade in favor of Guatemala and expressed himself very hopefully +concerning the measures of internal development which could be carried +on while the conditions of foreign commerce were so satisfactory.</p> + +<p>Since a portion of the revenue of Guatemala is raised from the export +tax on coffee it is possible to maintain a very moderate schedule of +import duties and this is done. The average duty on the group of +articles described under the heading of prime necessity is 23.67% <i>ad +valorem</i>. On the second group 30.84% and on the third group 7.60%. The +duties are equitably distributed so as to bear lightly on everything +that enters into the industrial upbuilding of the country. Moreover, +special concessions are sometimes made on material for railway and other +enterprises which enter into the national development.</p> + +<p>The general rules regarding the application of the tariff are very +clear. They are formulated with a view to saving annoyance to shippers +and are specific enough to avoid uncertainty. Import duties are not +high. The list of articles which it is prohibited to import is a short +one.</p> + +<p>The charges for invoices on shipments to Guatemala are as follows:</p> + +<table summary="charges for invoices on shipments to Guatemala"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Ship's manifest</td> + <td></td> + <td>$10.00.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Validating invoices of from</td> + <td>$1 to $100</td> + <td>7.00.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left"> " " " </td> + <td>100 " 500</td> + <td>10.00.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left"> " " " </td> + <td>501 " 1000</td> + <td>14.00.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left"> " " " </td> + <td>1001 " 3000</td> + <td>16.00.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left"> " " " </td> + <td>3001 " 6000</td> + <td>20.00.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p><p>For each additional $1000 the Consuls will collect $2.</p> + +<p>The government officials of Guatemala and the merchants gave hearty +support to the project of an exposition ship or floating exposition +which was undertaken on the Pacific coast in order to display American +products and manufactures and at the same time familiarize American +firms with the products of other countries.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Exchange and Banks.</span></p> + +<p>In the conduct of its foreign commerce reasonably long credits are +required by the merchants of Guatemala, but always under fixed +conditions. When the coffee crop is shipped bills on Europe and on New +York can always be procured at reasonable exchange and the obligations +be met in this manner. Since the balance of trade is in favor of +Guatemala there is always the certainty of funds for exchange.</p> + +<p>Under President Estrada Cabrera's administration the banks of the +country are subject to a regulation somewhat similar to the national +banks of the United States. Various decrees have been issued governing +the emission of banknotes. The latest decree institutes a special bank +examination project and requires all the financial institutions to give +an account of their condition and operations to this Department.</p> + +<p>The following statistics as to the leading banks of Guatemala have been +compiled from recent reports:</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Guatemalan Bank (Banco de Guatemala).</span></p> + +<table summary="Guatemalan Bank"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Capital subscribed and totally paid </td> + <td>$2,500,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Reserve fund</td> + <td>655,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Contingent fund</td> + <td>292,208 67</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Fund available for dividends</td> + <td>200,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="center">Manager: Carlos Gallusser.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p><p class="center"><span class="smcap">Occidental Bank (Banco de Occidente).</span></p> + +<table summary="Occidental Bank"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Capital authorized </td> + <td>$2,000,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Capital paid</td> + <td>1,650,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Reserve fund</td> + <td>1,200,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Contingent fund</td> + <td>1,200,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="center">Manager: Rufino Ibarguen.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">International Bank (Banco Internacional).</span></p> + +<table summary="International Bank"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Capital subscribed and totally paid </td> + <td>$2,000,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Reserve fund</td> + <td>1,507,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Contingent fund</td> + <td>281,918 76</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="center">Manager: Carlos B. Pullin.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Columbian Bank (Banco Colombiano).</span></p> + +<table summary="Columbian Bank"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Capital paid </td> + <td>$1,776,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Reserve fund</td> + <td>797,747 94</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Sinking fund</td> + <td>454,189 84</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Fund available for dividends</td> + <td>69,227 74</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="center">Manager: F. L. de Villa.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">American Bank (Banco Americano).</span></p> + +<table summary="American Bank"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Capital authorized </td> + <td>$1,200,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="center">Manager: A. Beckford.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Agricultural Mortgage Bank (Banco Agricola-Hipotecario).</span></p> + +<table summary="Agricultural Mortgage Bank"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Capital authorized </td> + <td>$12,000,000 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="center">Manager: A. Prentice.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="smler" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p><p>All these are banks of emission and discount with headquarters in +Guatemala City and with branches in the other principal cities of the +departments. They also to some degree supply the place of mercantile +agencies and report financial standing of individuals, firms and +companies upon solicitation.</p> + +<p>It is known to be the great ambition of President Estrada Cabrera to +place the finances of Guatemala on a solid basis during his present +term. The rate of exchange under the stability now afforded and the +improved industrial and commercial conditions has been steadily falling.</p> + +<p>A final word concerning the opportunities for American enterprise is +convincing when it comes from official sources. In one of his reports +Consul General Winslow said:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"During the past few months the exporters of the United States have +been doing some effective work in this Republic. There have been +several commercial travelers here studying the conditions and +taking sample orders. Many others have been asking for information +from this Consulate-General, which has been able to give valuable +information. If this field is properly worked and sufficiently long +credit is given, practically nothing but American goods need be +found in the markets of Guatemala, for they are generally conceded +to be the best. This market is worth cultivating, for the next few +years will see great development here. Everything points that way, +and the natural resources are great. The opening up of the new +railroad to the Atlantic coast at Puerto Barrios will do wonders +for the country. More attention is being paid to the packing of +goods shipped to this country. It is an important matter and cannot +have too much attention on the part of exporters. Packages should +be very firmly nailed and bound by band iron, so they would be +difficult to open, as there is much complaint about goods being +stolen from boxes in transit. I have had several compliments of +late from the custom officers for the way shipments of American +goods have come packed. It will pay exporters to pack well +everything<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> they ship. Dollars spent in this line will bring +hundreds in profits. This is especially true for Central American +ports."</p></blockquote> + +<p>Supplementary to the above was a report from Vice-Consul General Owen in +which these observations were made:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"The following drygoods of American manufacture are becoming quite +popular here: Brown cotton, all grades; cotton duck, Lindale, up to +6 ounces; light domestics; long cloth; gingham; cotton drill, +checks and stripes (cheviot); blue and brown cotton drill; fancy +calicoes and lawns; cotton ware, all colors. The piece of 24 yards +is the most popular, although cotton cheviots, gingham, etc., come +put up in larger pieces. Dress patterns in lawn and calico are +frequently imported.</p> + +<p>"It must be borne in mind that the importers of this Republic are +for the greater part Germans, and their interest and inclination +lead them to trade with the fatherland. England also is preferred +over the United States, possibly because Guatemala merchants can +more easily identify themselves in England and get better credits. +American goods therefore are imported only when their quality +places them so far ahead of the European article that the merchant +is almost compelled to have them in stock. The American +manufacturers should become better acquainted with this trade, +ascertain who are worthy of credit, and extend it. The long voyage +and delay <i>en route</i> compel the importer to ask long credits. It is +sometimes two or three months after shipments destined for this +city leave the manufacturer before they can be displayed in the +store of the importer. The custom duty on about all cotton goods is +collected on gross weight of the package. Great care should be +taken with invoices for custom-house purposes; the goods must be +described in exact phraseology of Guatemala custom tariff."</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>CHAPTER V.</span> <span class="smaller"><span class="smcap">Climate and Immigration.</span></span></h2> + +<p>The population of Guatemala according to the general census of the +Republic taken at the beginning of 1904 was 1,842,000. This was the +actual enumeration, but as there were many cases in which a complete +account was not possible the inhabitants probably number 2,000,000. Of +those enumerated by races 750,615 were Ladinos, and 1,091,519 were of +the aboriginal race. The Ladinos are the descendants of the white race +and of a mixture of European and Indian. The Indian population is +principally engaged in farming and in small commercial enterprises in +the interior. The Ladinos are much more energetic. The natives of the +high and cold regions are the most vigorous.</p> + +<p>For many years it has been the aim of the Guatemalan government to +attract foreign immigration. Under President Estrada Cabrera's +administration systematic measures for this purpose have been taken and +the policy of encouraging immigrants and colonists, especially from the +United States, has become a settled one. Practically one-half the +fertile territory is yet uncultivated for want of tenants and there are +many agricultural industries which require a very small amount of +capital while they assure independence to those who follow them.</p> + +<p>The first question asked is whether the natives of the temperate +regions, Europeans and North Americans, can live and work in the +climate. The answer is that there are large areas suitable for them +where they may engage in coffee-growing, dairying, stock-raising and +similar occupations.</p> + +<p>The districts known as the Highlands or "Los Altos" are at an average +elevation of 5,000 feet and comprise some of the most inviting sections +of Guatemala. The uplands<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> include Quezaltenango, Solola, Quiche, +Huehuetenango, Totonicapam, and San Marcos.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">The Three Zones.</span></p> + +<p>Usually in describing the country it is divided into three zones. The +<i>tierra caliente</i>, or hot lands, comprise the coast of the Atlantic and +the Pacific ocean.</p> + +<p>The <i>tierra templada</i>, or temperate zone, covers the central plains +which range from 2,000 to 5,000 feet above the sea level.</p> + +<p>The <i>tierra fria</i>, or cold zone, comprises the highlands as noted above.</p> + +<p>The year is divided into two seasons, the winter or rainy season lasting +from May till October, and the dry season. The hottest months are March +and April and the coldest ones December and January. Except along the +coast the average temperature throughout the year is about 72° +Fahrenheit. The climate on the coast is rendered endurable by the +refreshing sea breezes which blow for several hours every day. Many +people who live in the uplands in the rarefied atmosphere find it +agreeable and beneficial to their health to spend a few weeks every +season on the coast lands. The climate would be hot and moist except for +the variations caused by the mountains which oppose themselves not only +to the prevailing winds but also in rainfalls to the humidity of the +air. The winds are from the east and north, although along the Pacific +coast there are southern and southwestern winds at certain times in the +year. In regard to rainfall the general rule is that the regions +confronting the moist winds from the ocean have abundant precipitation +while those defended by mountain ranges from the sea winds are dry.</p> + +<p>The climate taking the country as a whole is an unusually healthy one. +Fevers are not common and when they exist are confined to the warm and +humid coast regions. No peculiar climatic disease exists in Guatemala +and the country rarely suffers from epidemics. This is largely due to +the strict sanitary measures which are enforced by the government.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">A Poetical and Practical Description.</span></p> + +<p>The following account of the climate in popular language is given by a +well-known authority:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"The territory of the Republic belongs to the torrid zone comprised +among the intertropical countries which are exempt from the +rigorous winters of the countries of Europe, North and South +America, and the Far East. The vegetation which droops in the dry +season recovers a marvelous exuberance in the season of the rains. +In every part it is encountered then rehabited in the most splendid +garb of nature. The tropical countries at this period certainly are +the motherland of all the plants which are cultivated throughout +the world when as in the case of our Republic there are hot, +temperate and cold zones in which the vegetation is perpetual and +flourishes in the regions which possess perennial springs of +flowing water to moisten the cultivated lands in the season of the +drouths.</p> + +<p>"The knowledge of the climates is of the highest importance for the +agriculturist. It is his guide in the experiments for acclimatizing +exotic plants which he seeks to introduce into his properties.</p> + +<p>"The climate of a locality varies through the background of the +mountains, through its sloping direction, its nearness to the sea, +to the lakes, and to the selvas; through the direction and the +forces of the periodical winds.</p> + +<p>"Setting out from the low coastlands and ascending to the regions +of the Altos or highlands, the naturalist admires successively the +exuberant vegetation of the tropics and that of the cold countries.</p> + +<p>"On account of the topography of the territory we have in the +different zones of the Republic different climates characterized by +our two seasons—that of the rains, our winter, and that of the +dryness, our summer; characterized too by the intensity of the heat +in the low zones of the coasts and by the crisp cold in the high +plateaus of our mountains; by the force and duration of the +periodic winds of the Northwest which in certain regions of the +Republic blow with a violence harmful to agriculture.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p><p>"The temperature in the low zones fluctuates between 26° and 35° +centigrade, averaging 28°. In the zones ranging from 3,000 to 5,000 +feet above sea level the temperature fluctuates between 16° and +24°, the average being 20° to 22° centigrade. In the high zones or +cold lands the temperature varies from 8° to 15°, the medium being +12° or 13°. In these zones from December to the end of March the +temperature drops during the night to 1° centigrade and other times +to 3° or 4°.</p> + +<p>"The rains commence in May or June and continue until the middle of +November. They are most violent from July to October. In the months +of September and October there are sometimes storms and copious +rains which last almost continuously from one to two weeks.</p> + +<p>"Heavy dews are numerous and at times very copious in the summer in +the low zones close to the sea, the lakes and the big marshes and +also in the higher zones through the condensation of the vapors +which absorb the sun's rays and become more condensed on reaching +the colder regions of the atmosphere.</p> + +<p>"The northeast winds are periodical and blow almost without +interruption throughout the summer and with great violence on the +coasts of the north and in the eastern sections of the country. The +winds on the south coast are much milder and those in the western +sections are insignificant.</p> + +<p>"Under this drouthlike action the vegetation withers in the hot and +dry zones. It flourishes most in the districts which possess +perennial springs of running water for fertilizing.</p> + +<p>"In the season of the rains there are strong hurricanes of southern +winds which cause damage to agriculture, but happily they are not +frequent.</p> + +<p>"From the description of the varied climates of the Republic it +will be seen that they are adapted to the cultivation of the +richest tropical plants and for all the agricultural and industrial +produce which is cultivated in the cold and temperate zones of the +entire world.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p><p>"Besides, its vegetative season is one of perpetual cultivation, +and in the plantations which possess water for irrigating the +cultivated lands three crops a year can be raised in the hot zones +as well as the temperate regions, and two crops of the cereals, +wheat and Indian corn, in the cold regions; that is to say, the +feeding of 30,000,000 inhabitants is possible besides fruits for a +very extensive exportation."</p></blockquote> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Aids to Agriculture.</span></p> + +<p>In a country so largely agricultural as Guatemala is the measures for +the encouragement of farming may be taken as a means of judging the +interest shown by the government. On this point President Estrada +Cabrera in a recent message said:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Agriculture as the prime factor of our richness has been the +object of special attention during the last seven years of my +administration. In order to broaden and improve it there has been +established in the capital the General Department of Agriculture +and in the districts and municipalities Boards for the same +purpose. This Department has been authorized to publish a +periodical <i>The Bulletin of Agriculture</i> which is given over +exclusively to important farming studies. Seeds and plants have +been brought from other countries and distributed among our farmers +in order to establish new sources of production. Strict orders have +been issued to secure the cultivation of the largest areas possible +and also for establishing common seed grounds. Regulations have +been made for the exploitation of rubber. In every possible manner +the importation of farm tools and agricultural machinery has been +facilitated. Contracts have been made for the exploitation of the +woods in the forests of the north. Schools of agriculture have been +created in order to further the study of these subjects by the +issue of special bulletins under the direction of the Department of +Agriculture."</p></blockquote> + +<div class="center"><a name="illus073.jpg" id="illus073.jpg"></a><img src="images/illus073.jpg" width='700' height='412' alt="STREET IN ESCUINTLA" /></div> + +<p class="bold">STREET IN ESCUINTLA.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Leading Points of Immigration Law.</span></p> + +<p>A general immigration law was passed several years ago which has been +supplemented by other laws since that time. At the outset immigration +contracts with the Chinese are prohibited and the latter are not to be +accepted as immigrants. The purpose of this is to insure white +immigration and to prevent cheap coolie labor of a temporary character +interfering with settlers who wish to establish themselves permanently. +Immigrants are described as those foreigners having a profession, +occupation or trade, whether day laborers, artisans, workingmen in +factories, farmers or professors, who give up their own homes to come +and settle in Guatemala and accept their transportation to be paid +either by the Guatemalan government or by an immigration company. +Immigrants also include the foreigners whose transportation is not paid +by the government or by private companies. The wearing apparel and +household furniture, tools, domestic animals and other possessions of +immigrants are entered at the custom-house free of duty.</p> + +<p>An important provision authorizes the government to grant gratuitously +to immigrants lots of public lands in certain districts provided that +the immigrants bind themselves to cultivate within two years the third +part of the land granted. For this purpose zones of tillable land are +set apart in the districts named.</p> + +<p>Immigrants are exempted for a period of four years after their arrival +from service in the construction or repair of the public roads and from +the payment of municipal taxes. They are also exempted from military +service except in the case of foreign war. They enjoy all the rights and +privileges granted by law to Guatemalan citizens.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Public Lands for Settlers.</span></p> + +<p>Under a general law a body of official engineers was created for +surveying and distributing the uncultivated public lands and fixing the +prices therefor. The price<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> varies according to the nature of the land, +whether it is for grazing, raising cereals; whether capable of raising +sugar, banana, etc.; whether adapted to coffee and cotton, or whether it +contains forests. Public lands may also be granted to immigrants +gratuitously. Information on these points can be had through +correspondence with the Department of Agriculture called "Dirección +General de Agricultura," in Guatemala City.</p> + +<p>President Estrada Cabrera's land policy has been directed especially to +prevent great areas from being kept out of cultivation. He has dictated +many measures with the purpose of breaking up the huge estates that +often are uncultivated for want of capital and making them productive +through the encouragement of small capitalists or farmers.</p> + +<p>The general system of highways and cart roads as well as of the +railroads has been devised for this purpose.</p> + +<p>With regard to colonization and immigration the policy of securing the +benefit of the favored soil to settlers has been indicated in the +correspondence with various companies and individuals. In a report by +the Director of Agriculture he declared that immigration from North +America would be very pleasing to Guatemala and would strengthen the +cordial relations existing between the two countries. That the +immigrants will be well received he was assured. Their practical +character would be especially valuable in developing the resources of +the country. The Director, however, called attention to the fact that in +many places of the country the geological conditions were not similar to +the prairies of the United States where in the beginning very much could +be accomplished on a large scale by machinery. In many of the districts +open to settlement in Guatemala much of the work of clearing would have +to be done by hand. That is one reason why encouragement is given to the +individual settlers instead of to companies.</p> + +<p>To broaden and strengthen the present immigration law the Department of +Agriculture has recommended that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> certain lands be thrown open to +settlement on the following conditions:</p> + +<p>1. The government shall make the plan for the colony dividing the lands +into lots of one caballeria (112 acres).</p> + +<p>2. The settler shall take immediate possession of the lot which is +granted him.</p> + +<p>3. The government shall aid the removal of the colonists from their +present place of residence to the point where they intend to settle. +This aid to be extended under conditions which will insure its +repayment.</p> + +<p>4. The colonists on taking possession of their land shall obligate +themselves to begin cultivating some of the following articles: rice, +corn, beans, coffee, cacao, vanilla, rubber, cotton, hemp, etc.</p> + +<p>5. The government shall designate from among the colonists some one who +shall give general instruction with regard to the farming.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>CHAPTER VI.</span> <span class="smaller"><span class="smcap">International Relations.</span></span></h2> + +<p>Friendly relations with all countries, both neighboring and distant, is +a leading point in President Estrada Cabrera's programme. The relations +of Guatemala with the United States are particularly close and cordial.</p> + +<p>In his annual message President Estrada Cabrera said:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"It is well known that the grand Republic of North America always +has shown the most sympathetic regard for our country and the +earnest effort of my government has been to strengthen the ties of +friendship which unite the two nations. With this feeling existing +there has been achieved during the period since 1898 the most +flattering results, so that it can be confidently stated that never +before have the relations between Guatemala and the United States +reached so great a degree of cordiality as to-day, and it may be +said that never has any cause of discord between the two +governments been so remote as now. The death of the illustrious +President McKinley, which was felt so deeply in Guatemala, and the +advent into the Presidency of Mr. Roosevelt in no way interrupted +the progress of affairs with our Republic and those which were +pending followed their tranquil course towards a satisfactory +arrangement."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The Secretary of Foreign Relations in his annual report said:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Motives analogous to those which in foreign governments have +caused congratulation over the re-election of Señor Estrada Cabrera +as President of Guatemala have made it pleasing that the government +of this Republic on its part could extend its congratulations over +the re-election in the United States and Mexico respectively of +Messrs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> Roosevelt and Diaz, two eminent statesmen whose +conciliatory policies are well known, as likewise their sympathetic +regard for Guatemala. The continuation of these illustrious +personages in power is considered by this government as a guaranty +of the increasing cordiality of the relations of Guatemala with +them and it has also enabled at the same time to be placed in +evidence with all sincerity the satisfaction which has been +produced by their re-election in their respective countries."</p></blockquote> + +<p>These are correct statements, for the sentiment of profound sympathy and +admiration which President Estrada Cabrera and the whole people of +Guatemala entertain for President Roosevelt and for the American people +are very marked. For President Roosevelt on account of his grand traits +of character, of mentality and of heart and the spirit of humanity, +justice and rectitude which make of him the chief magistrate most +conspicuous, most respected, most popular and most cherished of the +present day; and for the American people on account of their +intelligence, their enterprising disposition and their unceasing labors +for progress, which have gained for them so pre-eminent a place among +all the nations of the earth as one of the grandest, most nourishing and +most powerful.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Adherence to the Hague Peace Principles.</span></p> + +<p>These quotations indicate the sentiment of Guatemala towards the two +countries with which geographically and otherwise it is most closely +allied. Further evidence of the friendship for the United States and of +the desire to sustain its policies of international peace were afforded +in the promptness with which President Roosevelt's suggestion of a +second Peace Conference in The Hague was accepted. With regard to the +United States the Secretary of Foreign Affairs stated:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Knowing the importance of our relations with the great American +nation it was a grateful duty to send a special mission to +Washington with the sole object of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>congratulating President +Roosevelt. For the discharge of this function Señor Jorge Muñoz was +selected and he discharged it with entire satisfaction to the +government. This mission having been disposed of he was accredited +permanently as Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary.</p> + +<p>"Inasmuch as it was not one of the ancient nations of Europe, but a +young and virile Republic, the strongest in America, which launched +the project through its distinguished President of a second Hague +Conference to perfect and complete the works of the first one in +favor of universal peace, it is to be hoped that this effort will +be seconded by all the countries of the civilized world and that at +no distant time when experience shall have shown the deficiencies +in the conclusions adopted by previous Congresses those which may +be adopted in the coming Peace Conference will be more efficacious +for the success of the humanitarian and praiseworthy end which the +United States proposes."</p></blockquote> + +<p>Guatemala previously had given its adhesion to the principles of +arbitration promulgated under The Hague Convention. It was represented +in the Second International American Conference held in Mexico +1901-1902, and the various treaties and recommendations made by that +Conference were ratified or endorsed as in the case of the other +signatory governments. The action taken by the government of Guatemala +on the respective conventions and recommendations was officially +transmitted to Señor Mariscal, Secretary of Foreign Relations of Mexico, +in accordance with the resolution of the Conference.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Pecuniary Claims Arbitration.</span></p> + +<p>Among the treaties promulgated by the Pan-American Conference in Mexico +was one relating to pecuniary claims. This required the ratification of +five governments in order to make it effective. Guatemala was one of the +first to give its formal adhesion to this convention. This treaty was +ratified by the United States Senate and promulgated by the Department +of State from Washington in the spring of 1905, so that United States +citizens can now claim<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> its benefits. The treaty consists of five +articles. Under its terms the high contracting parties agree to submit +to arbitration, through the Hague Court, all claims for pecuniary loss +or damage which may be presented by their respective citizens and which +cannot be amicably adjusted through diplomatic channels and when such +claims are of sufficient importance to warrant the expenses of +arbitration.</p> + +<p>By virtue of Article 26 of the convention of The Hague the high +contracting parties agree to submit to the decision of the Permanent +Court of Arbitration established by that convention all controversies +which are the subject-matter of the Treaty unless both parties should +prefer that especial jurisdiction be organized according to Article 21.</p> + +<p>If for any cause the Permanent Court of The Hague should not be opened +to one or more of the high contracting parties they obligate themselves +to stipulate in a special treaty the rules under which the tribunal +shall be established as well as its forms of procedure.</p> + +<p>In 1902 the administration of President Estrada Cabrera negotiated and +the National Assembly ratified an agreement with Germany, Belgium, +France, England, and Italy, which disposed of many subjects that had +been in controversy.</p> + +<p>Spain, the United States and Mexico did not enter into the agreement +because those governments preferred to postpone the claims of their +citizens until the industrial crisis was over and the financial +conditions were improved. Since that time a number of claims have been +adjusted satisfactorily. President Estrada Cabrera stated in a recent +message that there were no claims at the present time which were +weighing upon the national treasury. These matters having been arranged +satisfactorily he said that no subject had arisen which could alter the +friendly relations with the countries of Europe. This friendship was +shown in the tribute paid by the Diplomatic Corps on New Year's day. +Subsequently the governments of Germany and France had shown especial +consideration by conferring on the President the Order of the Red Eagle +and of the Legion of Honor respectively.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p><p>With Mexico the relations of Guatemala have been cordial since the +boundary dispute was settled in 1895. Recently the commercial relations, +on account of the construction of the Pan-American Railway through +Mexican territory to the Guatemalan border have required the +establishment of various consulates in important places in Mexico, and +the exequaturs have been granted by the Mexican government.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="illus083.jpg" id="illus083.jpg"></a><img src="images/illus083.jpg" width='700' height='412' alt="PLAZA OF JOCOTENANGO, GUATEMALA CITY" /></div> + +<p class="bold">PLAZA OF JOCOTENANGO, GUATEMALA CITY.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Concord in Central America.</span></p> + +<p>With respect to the neighboring republics of Central America the +attitude of Guatemala has been open and pronounced. It desires to +destroy every cause of discord among the Republics and to maintain a +perfect equilibrium. Guatemala took part in the conference which was +held at Corinto, Nicaragua, in August, 1904, and at which Salvador, +Honduras and Nicaragua also were represented. Through its delegate +President Estrada Cabrera's government subscribed to the following declarations:</p> + +<blockquote><p>1. To maintain peace is the principal objective of our government, +not only because it is a necessity for the various peoples, but +also because it imposes itself as a duty which all Spanish American +nationalities should fulfil. For this reason we firmly believe in +the proposition to overcome in Central America every obstacle that +may stand in the way of peace and we will put forth our strongest +efforts to frustrate the schemes of those who seek to sow distrust +and jealousy among us impelled as they are by the spirit of +ambition or disorder.</p> + +<p>2. The strict compliance with the international compacts which bind +us shall be the test to which we submit our acts so that every +effort to the contrary will be vain and barren since it is +necessary to recognize that the generality of the labors of the +enemies of each administration tend to no laudable ends but rather +are the work of selfish egotists, of personal enmities or the +aberration of unbalanced judgment.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p><p>3. We do not hesitate then in declaring that whatever scheme of +discord, subversive attempt, or suggestion which proposes to break +our loyal friendship shall receive no support among us because the +sincerity and firmness of our relations as representatives of the +peoples whom we serve are and always will be affirmed in this +solemn agreement, which we make at the instance of Central America; +an agreement which is the fruit of the efforts we have made as +public men on different occasions.</p> + +<p>4. We expect that all good citizens will give us in the sense +indicated their patriotic co-operation inspired in ideals of peace +and fraternity and contributing by supporting us in this accord to +place an end to the discord which the enemies of the public +tranquillity cause. And also upholding the liberal and progressive +policy which governs our acts.</p></blockquote> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span>CHAPTER VII.</span> <span class="smaller"><span class="smcap">The Land of Travel and History.</span></span></h2> + +<p>Guatemala is a fascinating country for the traveler and visitor. +Antiquarians, deep delvers in the majestic monuments of the long +forgotten past, seek in the myths, the traditions, the temples and the +ruins the riddles of prehistoric civilization. Modern tourists traveling +as they will be able to do within a short time by railway from New York +or San Francisco to the very heart of Guatemala may lose themselves in +admiration of the sublime scenery, the lovely landscapes of valley and +mountain lake and forest (the Indian name for Guatemala means abounding +in trees), volcanic caps, giant outlines, and cloud-clad craters. +Everywhere they will encounter that diversity which is the chief +attraction of natural scenery. They will find also superimposed on the +prehistoric Indian civilization the charm of Spanish architecture, +customs, character and institutions.</p> + +<p>Men of the stamp of President Estrada Cabrera who are engaged in the +material upbuilding and the political progress of the country may prefer +to talk of its agriculture and commerce, its opportunities for the +energetic and resourceful people of the northern regions rather than to +discuss its picturesque ruins audits fascinating history. Yet they would +not have these subjects neglected. Hence the traveler and the tourist +always are welcome, and whether they be deeply learned scientific +investigators or mere birds of passage seeking novelty every provision +is made to aid them in their travels.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Nature's Bold Hand.</span></p> + +<p>In the very accurate and complete physiographic description of Guatemala +contained in the report of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>Intercontinental Railway Survey the +following description is given of the great chain of volcanic cones and +peaks which add so greatly to the bold picturesqueness of the country.</p> + +<blockquote><p>"The Pacific coast extends generally from the northwest to the +southeast. From the sea the ground rises with a very gentle slope +inland for almost 25 or 30 miles when the country becomes broken by +the lava foothills of the volcanoes which extend from one end of +the country to the other and which stand like a giant wall between +the coast and the interior. Beginning at the Mexican boundary the +line of volcanoes extends nearly parallel to the coast. Back of +this is a plateau limited on the other side by the Continental +Divide and much broken by spurs which unite the volcanoes with the +Divide and the deep valleys between the spurs. The plateau is +drained by rivers which run to the sea through the deep canyons +between the volcanoes. The Continental Divide begins with the +volcano Tacana and making a semicircular bend to the north and east +rises again in the volcano Tajumulco. From this point its general +direction is easterly as far as the Cerro Tecpam. Tacana and +Tajumulco are the highest points on this are being respectively +13,334 and 13,814 feet above sea level. From Tajumulco to near +Totonicapam the general altitude of the Divide is about 9,000 feet, +the most prominent peaks being the Cerro Cerchil 11,830 feet, and +the Cerro Calel 10,813 feet. From Totonicapam to Cerro Tecpam the +general elevation of the Divide is about 10,500 feet with one peak, +the Cerro Quiche of 11,160 feet. From Cerro Tecpam 10,050 feet, the +Divide turns to the southeast and drops to a general elevation of +about 7,000 feet, crossing the plateau and rising again in the +Cerro Santa Maria Cauqué. Following the hills of Mexico, it crosses +the plain near Guatemala City, the suburb of Guarda Viejo, 5,060 +feet, being on the Divide."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The heights of other principal volcanoes are given opposite:</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p> + +<table summary="heights of other principal volcanoes"> + <tr> + <td class="left">Acatenango</td> + <td>13,012</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Fuego</td> + <td>12,821</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Agua</td> + <td>12,300</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Atitlan</td> + <td>11,849</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Santa Maria</td> + <td>10,535</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Quezaltenango </td> + <td>9,358</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Pacaya</td> + <td>7,675</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Ipala</td> + <td>6,801</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Chingo</td> + <td>6,019</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Variety in Geological Structure.</span></p> + +<p>In the geological structure of the country unusual variety of character +is shown. The quarternary formation, aluvium and diluvium, covers the +greater portion of the Pacific coast from the foot of the mountains to +the sea. The same formation is also observed in the neighborhood of +Guatemala City, the valley of the Passion River, Puerto Barrios and +various other localities on the Atlantic Slope.</p> + +<p>The tertiary formation and particularly limestone covers the entire +Department of Peten. Furthermore, limestones and dolomites of the upper +cretaceous age are noted from La Libertad toward the Usumacinta River +and toward British Honduras. In the localities of San Luis and Santa +Bárbara there are tertiary limestones and sandstones of Eocene and +miocene ages.</p> + +<p>The limestones and dolomites of the upper cretaceous age are also found +in various localities mixed with tertiary limestone and sandstone as +well as conglomerates, dolomites, and limestones of the lower cretaceous +age. In other sections they are mixed with limestones and dolomites of +the upper carboniferous age mingled with slate, sandstone and pudding +stone. The latter formation is found in other sections with +precarboniferous limestone and also with crystalline limestone of the +azoic age.</p> + +<p>The tertiary formation is followed by an azoic formation of gneiss, mica +slate, and phylada with large intrusions of granite. A kind of +horn-blend slate has been observed in some parts of Izabal.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="illus089.jpg" id="illus089.jpg"></a><img src="images/illus089.jpg" width='700' height='411' alt="LANDSCAPE OF GUASTOTOYA RIVER" /></div> + +<p class="bold">LANDSCAPE OF GUASTOTOYA RIVER.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p><p>The eruptive formations are composed of porphyry in the north and +northwest; of diorite, obsidian, rhyolite, and dacite and of trachyte, +together with basalt, rhyolite, obsidian and granite in other sections. +The eruptive formations are further composed of basalt in Pacaya and +several other volcanoes; and mostly of ambesite in the rest of the +Cordilleras and the highlands.</p> + +<p>For the present-day traveler who is interested in earthquakes and their +effects and in the ruins of Spanish architecture, nothing more +entertaining can be found than a visit to La Antigua, which can be +reached from Guatemala City by a few hours' ride in carriage or on +horseback. Antigua stretches through the beautiful and fertile valley +which in the Indian language means dry lake because the tradition exists +that in prehistoric times there was a fine sheet of water covering the +land. The panorama which delights the eye from any elevated point of +Antigua is glorious. The three volcanoes of Acatenango, Agua (water) and +Fuego (fire) lose their majestic combs in the clouds. In every direction +spread fertile fields with an infinite number of coffee and sugar +plantations in every state of production. The borders of the city are +bathed by two charming rivers, the Pensativo and the Portal. In the +immediate neighborhood are hygienic baths of pure crystalline water.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Prehistoric Ruins and Famed Lake Atitlan.</span></p> + +<p>Many volumes have been written about the prehistoric ruins of Guatemala +and especially of Copan. One of the most recent and most sumptuously +illustrated is that by Anne Cary Maudslay and Alfred Percival Maudslay +entitled "A Glimpse at Guatemala." It was published in London. In this +book Professor Maudslay gives the following description of a visit to +the ruins at Quiriguá:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"The ruins, which are completely hidden in a thick tropical forest, +stand about three-quarters of a mile from the left bank of the +river Motagua and about five miles from the miserable little +village of Quiriguá, from which they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> take their name. They consist +of numerous square or oblong mounds and terraces varying from six +to forty feet in height, some standing by themselves, others +clustered in irregular groups. Most of these mounds were faced with +worked stone and were ascended by flights of stone steps.</p> + +<p>"The interest centers in the thirteen large carved monoliths which +are arranged irregularly round what were probably the most +important plazas. Six of these monuments are tall stones measuring +three to five feet square and standing fourteen to twenty feet out +of the ground. The other five are oblong or rounded blocks of stone +shaped so as to represent huge turtles or armadilloes or some such +animals. All these monuments are covered with elaborate carving. +Usually on both back and front of the tall monoliths there is +carved a huge human figure standing full face and in a stiff and +conventional attitude. The sides of the monuments are covered with +tables of hieroglyphs, most of them in fairly good preservation. In +addition to these tables of hieroglyphs there are series of square +or cartouches of what appears to be actual picture writing, each +division measuring about eighteen inches square and containing +usually two or three grotesque figures of men and animals. The +design of these picture writings shows considerable variety and +freedom of treatment as compared with that of the large sizes human +figures in the execution of which the artist seems to have been +bound by conventional rules.</p> + +<p>"The largest of the stone animals is perhaps the most remarkable of +all the monuments. Its measurement is roughly a cube of eight feet, +it must weigh nearly twenty tons and it rests on three large slabs +of stone. It is shaped like a turtle and is covered with a most +elaborate and curious ornament and with tables of hieroglyphics and +cartouches of picture writing. The greater part of the ornament +throughout these carvings is formed from the grotesque +representations of the human face or the faces of animals, the +features frequently so greatly exaggerated that it is most +difficult to recognize them, but a careful examination enables one +almost invariably to trace back to this facial<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> origin what at +first sight appears to be merely conventional scroll work. Forms +derived from leaves or flowers are altogether absent; occasional +use is made of a plaited ribbon and a very free use of plumes of +feathers which are oftenmost gracefully arranged and beautifully +carved. The fifteen monuments are divided into two groups; in one +the figures are all those of men, in the other of women."</p></blockquote> + +<p>The same authors give the following vivid description of the famed Lake +Atitlan:</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Our tent was pitched so close to the precipice that even from my +bed I had a grand view into the Lake and could watch the black +masses of the volcanoes looming clear-cut and solemn in the +moonlight or changing from black to gray in the early dawn; then a +rosy flush would touch the peak of Atitlan and the light creep down +its side, revealing for a brief half hour every detail of cinder +ridge and chasm on its scarred and wounded slopes until with a +sudden burst of glory the sun rose above the eastern hills to +strike the mirror-like surface of the Lake and flood the world with +warmth and dazzling light. Every peak and mountain ridge now stood +out clear and sharp against the morning sky, and only in the shadow +of the hills would a fleecy mist hang over the surface of the lake +far beneath us; then almost before the sun had power to drink up +these lees of the night from the deep gap between the hills to the +south, a linger of white cloud, borne up from the seaward slope, +would creep around the peak of Atitlan only to be dissipated in the +cooler air; but finger followed finger and the mysterious hand +never lost its grasp until about noon great billowy clouds rolled +up through the gap and the outpost was fairly captured although the +crater itself often stood out clear above the cloudy belt. It was +not, however, until the sun began to lose its power that the real +attack commenced and the second column deployed through the gap on +the southern flank of San Pedro and then from five o'clock until +dark there followed a scene which no pen and no brush could +adequately portray. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> clouds seemed to be bewitched; they came +down on us in alternate black and sunlit masses, terrible in their +majesty; then rolled aside to show us all the beauty of a sunset +sky, tints of violet that shaded into pink, and pink that melted +into the clearest blue, whilst far away beyond the mountain seaward +rolled vast billowy masses, first red and yellow and then pink +fading to the softest green. Again and again would the clouds roll +down upon us, the mist at times so thick that we could not see +beyond a hundred yards; then just as quickly it would roll away and +reveal a completely new phase of this ever shifting scene of +beauty. As the sun sank behind San Pedro all turned again to dark +and angry purple with contrasts and reflections like the sheen of a +shot silk. Slowly the mists melted away with the fading daylight, +Venus hung for a while like a splendid jewel in the air and the +mountains turned again to shadowy masses outlined against a crystal sky."</p></blockquote> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Fascinating History Through the Centuries.</span></p> + +<p>Historically every period of Guatemala is fascinating. Usually the +history of the country is divided into the epochs of the aborigines, the +Spanish Conquest, Independence, and the era of liberal governments.</p> + +<p>Across the centuries the path of history can be traced. A book written +in the 16th century by one of the aborigines of the time of the Conquest +and called "Popol-Vuh" or "Book of the People," speaks of the Quiches, +vigorous and hardy natives of the soil, forerunners of the Guatemalan +people as having reached at that time a degree of advance which singled +them out from among the other primitive inhabitants of America. Their +religious system was in essence a kind of animal worship whose gods were +personified by the fox, the coyote, and the wild boar to be soon +reemployed through natural evolution by the forces of nature such as the +heavens, the earth, and the sea. They left as evidences of their worship +the multitude of monuments whose imposing ruins are preserved today. +Pyramids which seem to bear traces of Egypt and characters<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> indicative +of a remote Asiatic origin; temples, such as the Temple of the Sun, of +grand architecture; and the Palace, dwelling of the King, a holy being +and the Supreme Arbiter. The latter is among the most notable of +American antiquities and it causes admiration through the graduated +pyramid, the triangular vault and the arch forming an harmonious whole. +The Quiche civilization was an advanced one and its government was a +theocracy in which the High Priest was both the Supreme Governor and +inherited the name of the primitive god Votan. This theocracy was drawn +from among the warriors while the people in complete servitude tilled +the fields in order to sustain the worship and raise grand monuments and +built numerous cities on the borders of the lakes and rivers.</p> + +<p>Agriculture was well advanced. Cacao was cultivated with grand +ceremonies and maize or Indian corn which was guarded with profound +veneration because according to the ancient tradition man was formed +from it. Cotton was also grown and brilliant garments woven from it +which were dyed with cochineal and pigments formed from various plants. +Tobacco was cultivated and yucca, beans, potatoes, etc. Various textiles +were fabricated of the finest quality and many of the palaces and +temples were hung with this tapestry.</p> + +<p>Ceramics and various kinds of pottery were manufactured both for use and +for ornament. The sciences and the arts were developed. The fame of the +Quiche calendar exists today. The aborigines also understood painting, +sculpture, and music. They made plumes and cloaks from the feathers of +the birds and they wrote upon a paper prepared from the Amatl. Their +language was liquid and possessed few inflections. It was the most +perfect of the six hundred or more languages which the Spaniards +encountered in the Isthmus of Central America. They had a literature of +their own and from this fragments have been preserved notably the drama "Rabinal Achi."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Spanish Conquest and What Came After.</span></p> + +<p>Guatemala was conquered by the Lieutenant of Cortez, Pedro de Alvarado. +In April, 1524, he crowned his series of victories over the Quiches by +routing them on the plains of Urbina, capturing and condemning to perish +by hanging the two last Kings of the most powerful monarchy of Central +America; Oxib-Queh and Beleheb-Tzy. In July of the same year he founded +the city of Guatemala, although this was not definitely established +until November, 1527.</p> + +<p>Within a few years all the regions of Central America had submitted to +the Spanish Crown and formed the Kingdom of Guatemala, to the capital of +which was transferred in 1549 the Royal Audiencia or High Court. +Guatemala was the head of Spanish power in Central America under the +general term of the Spanish Captain Generalcy for two centuries.</p> + +<p>During the two hundred and fifty years following the Conquest the +country had three capitals in turn, all named Guatemala City. The first, +founded by Alvarado, was on the very spot where he fought the battle +which made him conqueror. The Indian kings of the South having heard of +the exploits of Cortez in Mexico, sent an embassy to him which he +received with distinction. He sent his favorite Lieutenant Alvarado back +to take possession. Alvarado and his three hundred Spanish soldiers were +nearly a year in making the journey through the forest. When the Indians +opposed him he gave continuous battle and finally conquered. He +destroyed their capital, razed the temple of their idols to the ground, +and built on its site a church.</p> + +<p>For seventeen years Alvarado kept the Indians at work building a new +capital on the site of their old one. Then came the earthquake which +destroyed the place and buried nine-tenths of the inhabitants under the +ruins. A new location was found, but again, in 1773, by the eruption of +Santa Maria the capital was destroyed. This is the group of picturesque +ruins now known as La Antigua. With the destruction of this capital a +third and final movement to the splendid situation in the Hermit Valley +was made and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> the new capital which is the Guatemala City of today was +established.</p> + +<p>After years of struggle against the Spanish domination, beginning in +1811, Guatemala secured its independence, which was proclaimed September +15, 1821, when in place of the Kingdom of Guatemala there was +established "A nation free and independent of every other nation." The +history of subsequent years is interwoven with the events of other +Central American countries. After many evolutions and disorders as well +as revolutionary changes of government, the era known as the period of +reform and the re-establishment of the liberties of the country began in 1871.</p> + +<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">Chapters of Recent History.</span></p> + +<p>The events which led to the adoption of the liberal Constitution of +1879, which is today in force, do not need to be recounted here. General +Justo Rufino Barrios, who had been the leading spirit in the Liberal +revolution, was a pronounced advocate of the union of all the Central +American States in a single federal republic. He endeavored to +accomplish this against the opposition of Salvador and was killed at the +battle of Chalchuapa in 1885. He was succeeded by General Manuel +Lisandro Barillas, who exercised the government from 1887 to 1892. After +him came General José Maria Reyna Barrios, who during the first four +years of his administration gave a good government and worked much for +the prosperity of his country. In the last two years, however, through +the bad counsels of selfish advisers foreign to his government he sought +to extend the term of his authority and was resisted by successive +revolutions. He was assassinated by a personal enemy of European +nationality in February, 1898, and Guatemala was then left in the midst +of a most disastrous condition, both industrial and political.</p> + +<p>It was at this period that Manuel Estrada Cabrera, the lawyer, came into +power and began the series of administrative reforms and measures for +the material <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>development of the country which have so vastly improved +the condition of the people, have re-established credit and given +assurance of further progress under continuous peace and tranquillity. +It is these beneficial measures which have caused President Estrada +Cabrera to be signalized as the chief of the modern emancipation of +Guatemala in its policies, in its intellectual and moral advancement, +and as the author of its present progress. Under his government order in +administration has been secured, respect for the rights of all, material +development in countless forms, the general improvement of the people +and the most perfect harmony and equity in international relations have +been obtained. It is the success of these policies, which is now +assured, that makes Guatemala so clearly the country of the future and +entitles Estrada Cabrera to rank with the most distinguished heads of +State of the present day.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Guatemala, the country of the future, by +Charles M. 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Pepper + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Guatemala, the country of the future + +Author: Charles M. Pepper + +Release Date: December 10, 2011 [EBook #38264] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GUATEMALA, COUNTRY OF THE FUTURE *** + + + + +Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Martin Pettit and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +GUATEMALA + +THE COUNTRY OF THE FUTURE + + +[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF HIS EXCELLENCY PRESIDENT DON MANUEL ESTRADA +CABRERA.] + + + + +GUATEMALA + +THE COUNTRY OF THE FUTURE + + +A MONOGRAPH + + +BY +CHARLES M. PEPPER + + +WASHINGTON, D. C. +1906 + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER. PAGE. + I. A Brief Description 9 + + II. A Progressive President and his Policies 20 + +III. The Soil and its Riches 30 + + IV. Trade and Markets 45 + + V. Climate and Immigration 56 + + VI. International Relations 64 + +VII. The Land of Travel and History 70 + + + * * * * * + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +Portrait of His Excellency President Don +Manuel Estrada Cabrera Frontispiece + +Monument to Columbus opposite 16 + +President and Members of Cabinet " 24 + +Vista of Aguna Plantation " 32 + +Bridge over Motagua River " 40 + +Street in Escuintla " 60 + +Plaza of Jocotenango, Guatemala City " 68 + +Landscape of Guastotoya River " 72 + + + + +PUBLIC OFFICIALS. + + +_President and Cabinet._ + +Senor DON MANUEL ESTRADA CABRERA, +_President of the Republic_. + +Senor DON JUAN BARRIOS, M. +_Minister of Foreign Relations_. + +Senor DON JUAN J. ARGUETA, +_Minister of Government and Justice_. + +Senor DON JOSE FLAMENCO, +_Minister of Public Improvement_ (_Fomento_). + +Senor GENERAL DON LUIS MOLINA, +_Minister of War_. + +Senor DON GUILLERMO AGUIRRE, +_Minister of the Treasury_. + +Senor DON J. ANTONIO MANDUJANO, +_Minister of Public Instruction_. + + + + +MINISTER AND CONSULS IN THE UNITED STATES. + + +Senor DON JORGE MUNOZ, +_Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, +Highlands, Washington, D. C._ + +JOAQUIN YELA, +_Consul General, 2 Stone St., New York City_. + +D. KINGSLAND, +_Consul General, 1521 N. 11th St., St. Louis, Mo._ + +FELIPE GALICIA V., +_Consul General, 421 Market St., San Francisco, Cal._ + +C. MORTON STEWART, Jr., +_Consul General, Baltimore, Md._ + +JULIO NOVELLA, +_Consul General, P. O. Box 1374, New Orleans, La._ + +SHIRLEY CRAWFORD, +_Consul, Louisville, Ky._ + +GUSTAVO NIEDERLEIN, +_Consul, Philadelphia, Pa._ + +EDWIN R. HEATH, +_Consul, 218 Rialto Bldg., Kansas City, Kans._ + +BENJAMIN PRESTON CLARK, +_Consul, 92 Water St., Boston, Mass._ + +VICENTE J. VIDAL, +_Vice-Consul, Pensacola, Fla._ + +MANUEL MARIA SAMA, +_Consul, Mayaguez, P. R._ + +M. MERROW, +_Consul, Galveston, Texas_. + +ANDRES J. BALLIET, +_Consul, Seattle, Wash._ + +ORMOND W. FOLLIN, +_Consul, San Diego, Cal._ + + + + +UNITED STATES MINISTER AND CONSULS IN GUATEMALA. + + +LESLIE COMBS, +_Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, +Guatemala City_. + +ALFRED A. WINSLOW, +_Consul General, Guatemala City_. + +WILLIAM OWEN, +_V. & D. Consul General, Guatemala City_. + +CARL G. HEITMAN, +_Consular Agent, Champerico_. + +EDWARD REED, +_Consular Agent, Livingston_. + +SAMUEL WOLFORD, +_Consular Agent, Ocos._ + +FRANK SIMS SWAN, +_Consular Agent, San Jose de Guatemala_. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +A BRIEF DESCRIPTION. + + +The Republic of Guatemala, which name is derived from the Indian word +"Quanhitemallan," signifying "land covered with trees," has been +described as the privileged zone of Central America. This is because of +its resources, its climate, and its accessibility. + +The country is easily reached from all directions through its seaports +on both the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans and through its rapidly growing +system of railways. From California, from the neighboring ports of other +Central American countries and from Panama there is regular and reliable +steamship service on the Pacific coast. On the Atlantic or Gulf side +from New York, New Orleans, Galveston and Mobile there is frequent +steamship service, while there is also connection at Colon with English +and German lines. The steamers on the Pacific coast connect at San Jose +with the Guatemala Central Railway, which affords easy means of arriving +at the capital city and the great coffee-raising districts. These are +reached by the branch to Mazatenango, which forms a junction with the +Occidental Railway between Champerico and San Felipe. On the Atlantic +side is Puerto Barrios, which will derive additional importance from the +early completion of the Northern Railway and which will place New +Orleans within five days or less of Guatemala City, Chicago six days, +and New York seven days. Besides the means of communication afforded +jointly by the steamship lines and the railroads at an early date there +will be complete and uninterrupted railway communication with St. Louis +and other points of the Mississippi Valley through Mexico. The means of +communication and transportation are given more fully later on. + +Geographically the Republic of Guatemala is the heart of intertropical +America. It is the most northern part of Central America, in shape like +a polygon, with the southern side the longest. It lies approximately +between north latitude 13 deg. and 42' and 17 deg. and 49', and between 88 deg. and +10' and 92 deg. and 30' longitude west of Greenwich. Its area is 50,600 +square miles--the greatest length from north to south being 360 and from +east to west 390 miles. The Pacific coast line with indentations is +nearly 400 miles and the Atlantic line about 150 miles in length. + + +STRIKING PHYSICAL ASPECTS. + +In its physical aspects Guatemala is a country of mountains, tropical +forests, lakes and rivers and coast plains. It was described by Humboldt +more than one hundred years ago as extremely fertile and well +cultivated, and this description holds good to-day, though there are +vast areas of rich agricultural land yet open to profitable cultivation +and only awaiting immigration to develop their richness. + +The Guatemalan Andes consist of three minor mountain systems. These are +the northern zone, chiefly of denuded cones, 1,500 to 2,000 feet in +height, with plains lying between them; the central zone consisting of +ranges and chains running east and west with many marked elevations +rising from 7,000 to 14,000 feet; and the southern zone consisting of +eruptive chains which culminate in many notable volcanic peaks, some of +which are more than 14,000 feet in height. These are known as the +Cordilleras and they parallel the Pacific Ocean. + +There are three river systems emptying respectively into the Gulf of +Mexico, the Atlantic and the Pacific. Some of the streams flowing into +the Gulf of Mexico are navigable by steamboats of light draught. + +Of the Atlantic tributaries the principal rivers are the Sarstoon, the +Motagua and the Dulce; the latter empties into the Gulf of Honduras. +Navigation is possible on the Motagua for about 75 miles from the mouth. +The rivers flowing into the Pacific include the Paz, the Suchiate, and +the Patulul. These have their sources in the Andean Cordilleras or the +neighboring highlands. There is also the Michatoya which is navigable +for small boats to its confluence with the Maria Linda. Generally +speaking, a few of the rivers on the southern coast might be made +navigable for short distances with boats of very light draught. + +Guatemala has a series of inland lakes which include Izabal, Atitlan, +Amatitlan, which are capable of steam navigation; Peten, Ayarza and +Guija. The largest of these is Lake Izabal, which is 58 miles long by 12 +miles in width and which has its outlet through the Dulce River into the +Gulf of Honduras. + +The cities and municipal districts having a population of 10,000 and +upwards are as follows: + + + NAME. POPULATION. + Guatemala City 100,000 + Antigua 10,000 + Quezaltenango 25,000 + Totonicapan 33,000 + Coban 23,000 + Chiquimula 13,000 + Jalapa 13,000 + Escuintla 13,000 + Salama 13,000 + Amatitlan 10,000 + Zacapa 12,000 + Flores 13,000 + Jutiapa 14,000 + Huehuetenango 10,000 + Retalhuleu 10,000 + Solola 15,000 + Mazatenango 10,000 + San Marcos 10,000 + Atitlan 10,000 + + +THE HANDSOME CAPITAL CITY. + +Guatemala, the capital, is the largest city in Central America. The +location is unusually healthy, being 5,000 feet above sea level. The +city is laid out on a splendid scale with many fine avenues and parks. +It is improving its system of tramways by changing to electricity as +the motor power. The public buildings are especially notable. Among the +principal ones are the Palaces of the Government, the Presidency, the +Legislative Power, the Judicial Power, the Municipality, and the +Archbishopric; the Cathedral and other magnificent churches; the +Ministry of Public Improvement (Fomento), the Mint, the Conservatory of +Music, the general offices of accounts, of police, and of liquors and +internal revenue; the custom-house, the national institutes of young +men, of young ladies and of the native race, the first of which is +provided with a meteorological observatory; the schools of law, +medicine, engineering, polytechny, and arts; the children's college and +a large number of public schools; the Colon theatre; the registry of +real estate, the national printing-office, the post-office, the National +Museum; the military hospital, and the general hospitals, the asylums +for the insane and for convalescents and invalids; the central and the +Calvary markets; the penitentiary and the artillery, cavalry, and Guard +of Honor and San Francisco barracks; San Jose and Matamoros forts, and a +very large number of other imposing edifices. The American Club, which +has several hundred members, mostly citizens of the United States, +occupies fine quarters. + +Some of the parks, plazas, and public drives are adorned with very +beautiful marble or bronze statues. Among the principal ones are the +bronze monument of Christopher Columbus in the central park and the +marble one of the same historic personage in the garden of the Colon +Theatre; that of General J. Rufino Barrios and that of Don Miguel Garcia +Granados in the boulevard of the Reforma; and that of Friar Bartolomew +de Las Casas in the campus of the Institute of the Indian race. The last +three statues are of bronze. + +The seaports of Guatemala are of a varied character. Their value grows +every day because of the increased commerce that is resulting from the +development of the country under the industrial policies of President +Estrada Cabrera. On the Atlantic the leading ports are Livingston, +Izabal, Santo Tomas, and Puerto Barrios. Of these Puerto Barrios is +easily first. It lies at the extremity of the Gulf of Amatique, is +spacious and is well protected against winds. As the terminus of the +Guatemalan Northern Railway it is assured of a very extensive trade both +in exports and in imports. Puerto Barrios is not only a receiving and +distributing center for Guatemala, but also for a considerable portion +of the neighboring Republic of Salvador, which has no port on the +Atlantic. + +The chief ports on the Pacific side are San Jose, Champerico, and Ocos. +By far the largest amount of business is done through the port of San +Jose, which is the terminus of the Guatemalan Central Railroad. It has +extensive quays and other facilities for navigation. + + +OCEAN TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. + +Guatemala is well supplied with ocean transportation facilities, several +of the steamship companies receiving aid from the government. On the +Pacific coast there is the Pacific Mail which maintains a regular +fortnightly service with extra vessels during the coffee season and +which touches at the ports between San Francisco and Panama. The German +line known as the Kosmos puts the Guatemalan ports in communication with +the West Coast of South America as well as with the ports of California +and Mexico. It carries both passengers and freight. There are also +numerous small coasting vessels. It is probable that service will be +resumed by the various Chilean lines which formerly proceeded to San +Francisco, touching at Guatemalan and other ports, but which of recent +years have not gone north of Panama. All the vessels have excellent +passenger accommodations. + +From the Atlantic ports there are ships engaged in the fruit trade with +New York and Boston, some of which carry passengers. Usually, however, +passengers prefer to travel by way of New Orleans or Mobile, from either +of which cities every Thursday there is a vessel plying directly to +Puerto Barrios. The most complete service is that maintained by the +United Fruit Company. + +In view of the growing development on the Atlantic slope and of the +commerce which is certain to result there is an excellent opportunity +for an increased steamship service with the ports of the United States. +The time could be greatly lessened with advantages both in the +transportation of freight and in the benefit to passengers. The policy +of the government towards steamship lines both as relates to port +charges and to other measures is a most liberal one and every inducement +is offered to engage in furnishing additional facilities, which will +shorten the time between the different points and increase the frequency +of communication. + + +GROWTH OF RAILROAD SYSTEM. + +The railway system of Guatemala under the administration of President +Estrada Cabrera is certain to be the most useful means of developing the +country. Every encouragement is given to capital to engage in railroad +enterprises. The general plan includes both an interoceanic railroad and +links in the intercontinental or north and south lines. No measure of +President Estrada Cabrera's administration has been of greater +importance than his action in securing the completion of the Northern +Railway, which will be open for traffic throughout its entire length by +the end of 1906. This places the capital and the whole interior of the +country in direct communication with Puerto Barrios and insures a very +heavy decrease in the cost of freight both for the agricultural exports +and for the merchandise and other imports. The line runs from Guatemala +City to El Rancho and thence to Puerto Barrios. At various times +concessions were given for building the different sections, but +circumstances caused many of them to be almost abandoned. + +In the face of repeated discouragements President Estrada Cabrera took +up the subject with resolute spirit and with the sanction of the +National Assembly made a contract with a syndicate of which the +principals were Sir William C. Van Horne, the celebrated railroad man, +who completed the Canadian Pacific Railway in the face of monumental +difficulties and who subsequently built the Cuba Central Railway; and +Minor C. Keith, of the United Fruit Company, who for a third of a +century had been identified with various successful enterprises in +Central America. Subsequently the Guatemala Central Railway took a share +in the enterprise and also German banking and coffee interests. Under +the contract no export duty is to be laid on agricultural exports +transported over the railroad except coffee and the Company is given the +right to fix its passenger and freight charges on a gold basis. There +were many engineering difficulties to be overcome, the chiefest of which +was the bridging of the Motagua River. The material for this railway +construction was imported principally from the United States, the rails +from Maryland and the bridgework across the Motagua and other rivers +from Pittsburg. + +The importance of this Northern Railway to the development of Guatemala +is incalculable. It insures the opening up of a very rich country which +means a great addition to the exports of Guatemala and it also should +bring a large immigration because of the facilities for easy +communication and access to the markets of the United States which it +will afford. With the operation of the Northern Railway in connection +with the Guatemala Central, the country will have a through railway line +from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, 270 miles in length. While the +interior development is the chief benefit of this through railway +system, it is not unlikely that during the years that must pass until +the Panama Canal is completed some of the international traffic which +cannot be accommodated on the railway line across the Isthmus will find +a cheap and expeditious passage across Guatemala. + +On the Pacific slope the leading railway system is the Guatemala +Central. It was built by C. P. Huntington and is one of the best +railroads anywhere south of the Rio Grande. Though of narrow gauge the +roadbed was laid for standard gauge, and this change can be made at any +time. Unlike most foreign railways the Guatemala Central maintains the +American system of checking baggage. Its main line and branches cover +the coffee-raising districts of the Pacific coast section of Guatemala. +The Occidental Railroad has about 50 miles of track and the Ocos line 20 +miles. Both of these are on the Pacific slope. + + +COMPREHENSIVE RAILWAY POLICY. + +It is worth knowing that while the interoceanic line approaches +completion Guatemala is making decided progress in the links of the +Pan-American or intercontinental north and south trunk line. From a +junction with the Northern a branch will run south to Zacapa and +ultimately will be extended into Salvador. Towards the north there is +only a section of 30 miles to be completed in order to prolong the +Guatemalan system to Ayutla on the border of Mexico and this will be +done as soon as the extension of the Mexican lines to the boundary are +completed. These extensions are to be finished within two years, so it +may reasonably be said that by the end of 1907, if not sooner, a through +railway journey will be possible from San Francisco, Chicago, or New +York to the capital of Guatemala. The importance of this railway +building was shown by Senator Stephen B. Elkins, the chairman of the +Senate Committee on Interstate Commerce, in a speech made at the dinner +given the Pan-American Railway Committee by the Hon. H. G. Davis. In his +speech Senator Elkins said that the freight on coffee, which now +approximates $20 per ton or $1,000 on a carload of 50 tons, would be +cheapened till it came down to $250 per carload, or $5 per ton. + +[Illustration: MONUMENT TO COLUMBUS.] + +The railroad laws of Guatemala are thus explained in my official report +as Commissioner of the Pan-American Railway: + +"The railways of Guatemala are regulated by the provisions of the +Commercial Code and by the general railway law known as Decree No. 566, +dated February 1, 1898. By the terms of this decree persons or companies +seeking franchises are required to submit the plans to the Department of +Fomento; when indorsed by that Department the sanction of the Council of +State is sought, and finally the approval of the National Legislature. +All contracts celebrated by the executive power have to be approved by +the National Legislature. The contracts may be with designated +individuals, with persons acting for others, or for companies that are +to be formed. + +"Concessions can be granted with subsidy or without it, guaranteeing or +not the capital which may be invested, with an interest proportionate to +the product. The Government shall include in the estimates the share of +pecuniary responsibilities required for fulfilling the obligation +contracted. + +"The State may exempt the enterprise from the payment of every class of +contributions, from the use of stamped paper and fiscal dues, for the +time which it may consider just or opportune, but in every instance the +exemptions shall be specified in the contract. + +"The right of eminent domain or expropriation for the benefit of +grantees holding franchises is enforced. The Government also undertakes +to procure uniformity in the gauge and the rails. + +"The Government offers every inducement to promote the extension and +development of railroads in the country. The best evidence of its policy +toward legitimate and genuine capital is shown in the terms of the +contract for the completion of the Northern Railroad. + +"The engineering difficulties of railroad construction in Guatemala are +not grave, as the lines skirt the foothills of the great agricultural +regions. The immense natural resources, consisting of the products both +of the tropical and the temperate climates, such as coffee, sugar, +tobacco, the cereals; the vast pasturage for live stock; the undeveloped +timber industries, and the unexploited mines, all open up prospects for +profitable traffic." + +In addition to its railways Guatemala seeks to maintain a complete +system of highways or cart roads. Among the most important cart roads +which have recently been built or are now under construction, are those +from the capital to San Juan Sacatepequez, San Pedro and San Raymundo. +There is also a cart road between Huehuetenango and Quezaltenango; one +from Coban to Quiche which will join the departments of the north with +the rich western section of the Republic; from Totonicapan to Quiche; +that between Ovejero and Trujillo, which will place in communication the +departments of Jutiapa and Jalapa; that from Tumbador to San Marcos; +that from Solola to Panajachel; that from Chicacao to Nahualate; and +finally the highway from San Jeronimo and Rancho San Augustin, which +will join the department of Baja Verapaz with Zacapa. All these roads +serve as new arteries for the development and the enlargement of +commerce and agriculture and this has been the special care of President +Estrada Cabrera, who has provided the means for opening, wherever +possible, the necessary ways of communication. + +Distances between the capital city and the principal points of the +country are as follows: + + + GUATEMALA TO MILES. + Antigua 27 + Chimaltenango 36 + Amatitlan 18 + Escuintla 431/2 + Cuajiniquilapa 42 + Solola 90 + Totonicapan 111 + Quezaltenango 120 + Mazatenango 138 + Retalhuleu 153 + San Marcos 165 + Huehuetenango 195 + Santa Cruz de Quiche 96 + Salama 69 + Coban 126 + Flores 321 + Izabal 216 + Zacapa 126 + Chiquimula 135 + Jalapa 75 + Jutiapa 87 + + +POSTAL AND CABLE SERVICE. + +The means of facilitating intercourse both among its own people and with +the outside world has always been encouraged by the government of +Guatemala. + +The Republic is a member of the International Postal Union. It has an +excellent post-office service, both foreign and domestic. Complete +information is given in the Postal Code of the Republic. During the last +year the number of pieces of mail received in all the offices of the +Republic was nearly 5,000,000, while the mail matter transmitted +amounted to 3,653,000 separate pieces. The telegraph and telephone are +nationalized and are controlled and operated by the Government, though +there are also some private telephone lines in the capital. The national +telegraph lines have a total length of about 5,300 kilometers, 3,290 +miles, and the telephone lines of 500 kilometers, 310 miles. The number +of telegrams transmitted in a given year was 1,106,832. The Government +is constantly constructing new lines both for telegraph and telephone +service. At the present time there are nearly 200 telegraph offices and +about 100 telephone offices. The rates both for telegraph and telephone +messages, which are payable in Guatemalan currency, are quite moderate. +A telegram of 10 words to any part of the Republic costs about 5 cents +in gold. The long distance telephone service is at the rate of about 15 +cents for a five minutes' conversation. + +The cable service is maintained by the Central and South American +Telegraph Company, whose main office is at San Jose. The following are +the charges per word in gold: + + + Guatemala to points in the United States 55 cts. + " " " Great Britain 80 cts. + " " " France 80 cts. + " " " Germany 80 cts. + " " " Canada 58 cts. + " " " Central America 29 to 32 cts. + " Havana, Cuba 66 cts. + " points in Mexico 31 to 44 cts. + " City of Panama 37 cts. + " City of Colon 47 cts. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +A PROGRESSIVE PRESIDENT AND HIS POLICIES. + + +Guatemala in order to fulfil its destiny as the country of the future +must be assured of stable and progressive government hospitable to +foreign capital. To insure these things it is necessary to have the +right man at the head of affairs. No one now questions that Guatemala +possesses this advantage in the person of Manuel Estrada Cabrera, whose +term as President will not expire till 1911. + +The best test of any public man entrusted with the responsibility of +government is the opinion of disinterested foreign observers whose +position gives them the opportunity to judge. This opinion was voiced by +Mr. Leslie Combs, the American Minister Plenipotentiary to Guatemala, on +the occasion of a New Year's reception by President Estrada Cabrera +(1905), when the diplomatic corps called on the President in a body. +Speaking for himself and for his colleagues of the Diplomatic Corps +Minister Combs on that occasion said: + + + "Upon such an occasion as this criticism or compliment would alike + be out of place, but it may be permitted to mention the wonderful + development in Mexico in the past ten years, the great work now in + hand to the south and to predict that Guatemala in material wealth + and well-being has a great future before her. We hope this will be + realized in your next administration and that this year will + distinctly mark its advent. + + "The wise base their hopes of the future upon their experiences of + the past and we look to the peace and order maintained by your + administration in the past seven years as a guarantee that your + people may expect as much in those that are to follow. + + "We remember that called to your position of responsibility by a + tragedy you have firmly held the authority with which you have been + entrusted. We remember that by the diplomatic settlement of 1902, + by arbitration and negotiation, you have settled all the foreign + claims of importance against your government and have given rise to + not one yourself. We remember that hardly had the ashes cooled + after the terrible disaster of Santa Maria when railway spikes were + being driven to its base and the Mazatenango Railway opened, that + the Northern Railway contract seems to guarantee the completion of + that highway to the Atlantic at an early date. + + "These achievements in a period of depression, in the face of + natural phenomena of almost unparalleled destructiveness, warrant + the hope that conditions may enable you to direct the destiny of + Guatemala still further along on the highway to that position all + hope she may one day occupy. A noble field lies before you. That + you may be able to occupy it to the greatest advantage of your + country is our earnest wish." + + +The tribute from Minister Combs, as will be noticed, especially +emphasizes President Estrada Cabrera's qualities as a man of +achievement. That is the keynote of his character, to do something for +his country. + +President Estrada Cabrera is a civilian executive. His public life has +been that of a lawyer eminent in his profession. + + +SUPPORT OF LIBERAL PRINCIPLES. + +In his participation in public affairs President Estrada Cabrera always +has supported liberal principles. It was therefore natural that he +should be prominent in the councils of the Liberal party and should +become the leader of that organization. His career has been one to +familiarize him with all the departments of the government. He served as +Secretary of Government and Justice, and it was while, holding this +position that in order to investigate a land controversy he went out +into the wilderness himself and spent several weeks going over the +sections concerning which he desired to be fully informed. The result +was that this controversy which had been in dispute for a long term of +years was finally settled in the manner most equitable and just for the +parties interested. This is the way President Estrada Cabrera works when +the interests of the State are involved. + +In 1898 when President-General Jose Maria Reyna Barrios was killed, Mr. +Estrada Cabrera was _Primer Designado_, the position which corresponds +to vice-president in the United States and under which he became acting +President until an election could be held. At that election he was +chosen President by a substantially unanimous vote. An indication of his +public policies was given by him when he outlined his programme on +coming into the responsibility for the government of Guatemala during +the interim which he served in the character of _Primer Designado_. On +that occasion he said: + + + "My administration will be brief and of a temporary character, but + not for that reason shall it be left for History to demand of me a + strict account of my acts during this period. I declare in the most + solemn manner before my fellow citizens that I wish to hand back + the beautiful standard of my country without stain. I desire that + the Constitution, the sacred repository of our liberties, be not + soiled in my hands. My hope is that all of my compatriots may enjoy + the life and public liberties that are rightfully theirs. I wish + that all the guaranties may protect them in the moment when they + approach the ballot boxes to cast their vote for the person to whom + it will be given to direct the destinies of our common country." + + +It was after this declaration and after several months' experience under +President Estrada Cabrera's administration that in September, 1898, the +people chose him to fill out the full presidential term and then in 1904 +re-elected him for the term which will expire in 1911. + +When President Estrada Cabrera became charged with the full +responsibility of power in 1898, Guatemala was in the midst of political +complications and of a very severe industrial crisis. His first labor +was to insure political tranquillity. When this was accomplished he gave +all his energies and his talents to developing the resources of the +country and to the improvement of public administration. From this point +a recent writer, confirming the eulogy of Minister Combs, said: + + + "Guatemala now enjoys unalterable peace. Her progress is most + notable and instead of investing the public funds exclusively in + swords and cannons there have been instituted the annual festival + of Minerva, the most splendid work of Estrada Cabrera as ruler and + as patriot, arousing in this manner in the people the desire for + instruction and fostering by all possible means the material + progress of the country; giving facilities and opening new ways to + traffic and commerce; nourishing industries, science and the arts; + beautifying the cities and villages; affording to all the + advantages of modern improvements and spreading the knowledge of + hygiene among the masses." + + +A RECORD OF ACHIEVEMENT. + +In a general way the administration of President Estrada Cabrera has +been described as the political emancipation and the administrative +emancipation. The former topic will be considered in the explanation of +Guatemala's international relations. The administrative reforms which +President Estrada Cabrera has introduced are numerous. He has reduced in +a large measure the public debt and has paid almost entirely the +recognized foreign claims incurred by previous administrations, has +given marked impulse to the construction of highways, bridges, and other +public works; has systematically fostered agriculture; has reformed and +liberalized the Civil Codes and Proceedings; has extended the system of +posts, telegraphs, and telephones; has established patriotic +celebrations of an industrial, agricultural, literary and scientific +character; has reorganized the army and the branch of military hygiene, +has enacted rigorous measures of quarantine against yellow fever, +smallpox, and the bubonic pests; has enlarged considerably the public +schools and the charitable institutions by constructing the fine Asylum +for Invalids and Convalescents which bears his name: has improved the +fiscal systems of the municipalities by bringing them to a modern basis, +and has secured special advantages in supplying them with light, water, +and other municipal necessities. + +Generally it further may be said that Guatemala owes to President +Estrada Cabrera: + +The rehabilitation of her railway system. + +The stability of the legal regimen. + +Important reforms in land holdings in the interest of the small land +owners. + +The institution of closer relations with all the nations of the world +and especially with the United States. + +The restoration of public credit. + +A satisfactory immigration policy. + +The re-establishment and reorganization of the public school system, and +a great variety of other measures which form a solid foundation for the +continued development of the country. + + +POPULAR EDUCATION PROMOTED. + +People in the United States who believe in the "Little Red School House" +as the basis of good citizenship cannot fail to appreciate how +thoroughly President Estrada Cabrera has made primary education a part +of his policy. In the midst of his many measures for the material +development of the country he never has lost sight of the moral +advancement which comes from the school. He believes in education also +as the very best means of creating and fostering the national patriotic +spirit. During his first term he published a decree relating especially +to the education of the youth of the country. He fixed the last Sunday +of October of each year for the celebration of a popular festival +throughout the Republic consecrated exclusively to commemorate the +education of the youth of the country and requiring that all the +directors, professors, teachers, and scholars of all the schools take +part in it. This was known as the Festival of Minerva. It is a +sentimental recognition of the value of education, and is the complement +of the practical steps which have been taken. One of his first measures +on coming into the presidency in 1898 was to decree the reopening of the +public schools. From that time he exerted himself constantly to elevate +their standing by providing them with the best facilities, by +reorganizing them in conformity with the most modern plans, and in a +word by encouraging their extension and their progress in every sense. + +[Illustration: PRESIDENT AND MEMBERS OF CABINET.] + +Besides the primary schools a system of higher education is supported, +and there are normal schools and various faculties such as those of law, +medicine, engineering, etc. Especial attention, however, has been given +to practical education, that is, the fitting of the common people for +their occupations. There are schools of commerce, of manual training, +and of agriculture, as well as an Institute especially for the native +Indians. On this subject of technical education Consul General of the +United States Winslow in a special report said: + + + "There are few villages in the country where there are no schools. + In the city of Guatemala of late much attention has been given to + education, under the direction of President Manuel Estrada Cabrera, + who has done more along this line than any of his predecessors. + There are in the city of Guatemala 25 public schools, 8 institutes, + and 3 colleges. + + "President Estrada Cabrera has given much attention to his pet + scheme of establishing an industrial school for boys and girls at + his own personal expense, aided by several of the more progressive + citizens of Guatemala city, where the most improved methods of + instruction are to be employed. The President has engaged two able + educators from the United States, and proposes everything shall be + up-to-date. + + "The Boys' Industrial College is in charge of Prof. Y. C. Pilgrim, + a well-known educator of New Jersey, assisted by Professor + Bellingham and wife, who have charge of the languages, and + Professor Lorenzo de Clairmont, who instructs in gymnastics and + military tactics. These are assisted by several native teachers. + The boys are selected from the best families in the Republic and + are limited to 50, and are all required to live in the dormitory. + The college buildings are situated in a tract of land of about 60 + acres, convenient to the city, with a campus where the boys are to + be instructed in the modern sports and military tactics as taught + at West Point, and all orders are to be given in the English + language. + + "The Girls' Industrial School is in charge of Miss Alice Dufour, a + prominent educator of New York City, assisted by several native + instructors. This institution is located in the city and is to be + conducted on the same high plan as the boys' college. The idea is + to teach the principles on which the American home is founded. + + "President Estrada Cabrera means these institutions shall be the + nucleus around which a solid and up-to-date system of education + shall be built for this Republic. It is his ambition to firmly + establish an educational system modeled after that in use in the + United States, where the watchword shall be industry, promptness, + and honesty." + + +The New York _Tribune_ in a Washington dispatch had this to say on the +same subject: + + + "American teachers who went to Guatemala some time ago at the + request of the government are sending back interesting accounts of + the progress which that country is making in adopting the + educational methods that obtain in the United States. The + newspapers also have a good deal to say on the subject. President + Estrada Cabrera, who is a progressive man, for several years has + had the ambition to give a new turn to public instruction, and to + make it practical after the system of the United States. His idea + is that the youth of the Latin-American countries are especially in + need of newer methods, and of getting away from the metaphysical + systems which created a large class of professional men, for whom + there was no room and who were a drawback to material progress. + + "Some time ago President Estrada Cabrera established what was + called the practical school, which combined technical instruction + and manual training. A few weeks ago exercises were held at the + Escuela Practica, or technical school, and it is concerning this + that the New York teachers have written so encouragingly. The + President delivered an address on the value of work and of + developing through the schools an aptitude for everyday life. + Heretofore he said there had been too much theory and too much that + was purely professional in the system followed. Now that the + aspiration of many years had been realized he was hopeful that the + experiment would be beneficial in giving a new direction to the + national spirit, and would result in the kind of business training + that would fit the Guatemalan youth for the activities of practical + life rather than incline them to the traditions of the past. Under + the direction of the President fields for farm experiments have + been established, and the youth are taught the care of horses and + other farm work, as well as the manual trades. There is special + provision made for athletic sports." + + +SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT EXPLAINED. + +The Government of Guatemala is republican--democratic and +representative--and the supreme power is exercised by three governmental +branches, each independent of the others, called "the legislative +power," "the executive power," and "the judicial power." + +The legislative power is vested in a National Assembly which consists of +a single house composed of one deputy for each 20,000 inhabitants or +fraction of that number exceeding 10,000. The deputies are elected by +popular vote for four years, but one-half of the Assembly is renewed +each two years so that each time that it meets it contains an adequate +number of experienced members. Annual sessions are held lasting two +months, beginning March 1, but they can be extended one month longer in +case of necessity. For the transaction of business during its recesses +the Assembly appoints seven of its members who form a body called "the +Permanent Commission." This commission, as well as the executive, can +call the Assembly to meet in extraordinary sessions. + +The executive power is exercised by the President of the Republic, who, +for the transaction of public business, appoints six Ministers or +Secretaries of State, who have charge of the portfolios of Foreign +Relations, Government and Justice, the Treasury and Public Credit, War, +Public Works, and Public Instruction. + +There is also a Council of State, a purely advisory body, which is +composed of the Cabinet Ministers and nine other members, of whom five +are appointed by the Assembly and four by the President. These +appointments are for two years. + +The judicial power is exercised by the courts and judges of the +Republic, organized as follows: + +The Supreme Court of Justice, which sits at the capital of Guatemala and +is composed of the President of the Judicial Power, four Magistrates, +and an Attorney (Fiscal). + +Six Courts or Tribunals of Appeals, composed of three Magistrates, of +whom one presides, and an Attorney (Fiscal). Three of these Courts sit +at the Capital and one in each of the capitals of the Departments of +Quezaltenango, Alta Verapaz, and Jalapa. The Magistrates and Attorneys +are elected, by popular vote. + +The Judges of the Courts of First Instance, of whom there are six in the +Capital, three in Quezaltenango, two in San Marcos, and one in each of +the remaining Departments of the Republic. These Judges are appointed by +the Executive from three names proposed by the Supreme Court of Justice. + +Finally, the Justices of the Peace who pronounce oral judgments and are +elected by the people of the districts in which they exercise their +functions. + +For the exercise of the political, civil, and military administration +of the country it is divided into twenty-two Departments, each of which +has a Governor (Jefe Politico) invested with the executive functions. +For the administration of the local affairs of each district there are +popularly elected Municipal Councils. The service of the members of the +Councils is for one year, is obligatory for the citizens of the +respective districts, and is not remunerated. + +The Constitution of the Republic gives to all those who live in the +country the most ample guaranties of liberty, equality, and security of +their persons, their honor, and their property; of freedom of movement +and of assembly, of professions, of industries, and of commerce; of the +right to dispose of their property, to address petitions to the +authorities and to defend their interests before them; of liberty of +conscience, inasmuch as there is no official religion; of the right to +freely express their opinions, whether by speech, or by writing, or by +means of the press, without being subject to censure; of liberty to give +or receive instruction, if they should so prefer, in private educational +establishments; of the right to have their residences, their property, +their correspondence, and other papers respected as inviolable; of the +right of _habeas corpus_; of liberty of defence in judicial proceedings, +etc. + +Primary instruction is obligatory, and that which is sustained by the +nation is secular and free. There is no imprisonment for debt. Marriage +is considered a simple civil contract; but those who desire can have it +solemnized in a religious form. Absolute divorce can be obtained in +cases defined by the law. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE SOIL AND ITS RICHES. + + +The soil of Guatemala is remarkable in the vast extent and great variety +of two classes of products which are unusual within the same degrees of +latitude, that is, it produces both tropical and temperate staples of +agriculture in great profusion. The soil grows coffee, sugar-cane, +cacao, bananas, tobacco, cotton, india rubber, vanilla, sarsaparilla, +and a long list of medicinal plants, while it likewise produces the +cereals, wheat and Indian corn, which are only found in temperate +regions, giving two and in some places three crops of these annually. +There are also endless kinds of valuable hardwood, mahogany, rosewood, +ebony, cedar and the like, which are especially tropical timber, and at +the same time pine and oak exist in the mountain regions of the +interior. Besides all this the grasses grown are especially adapted to +live stock, and cattle raising and dairying are very profitable +industries. + +The British Consul General in an official report to the Foreign Office +in London had this to say about the capabilities of the soil: + + + "The tropical situation of the country, the proximity of every + portion to the sea on both coasts, the diversity of altitude and + consequently of temperature, combine to make the agricultural + capabilities of Guatemala equal to any in the world. Every kind of + crop, from those of the tropical coast regions to those of the cold + highlands (the latter having a climate corresponding with that of + northern Europe in summer) may be raised. There are districts where + even four crops of maize (Indian corn) are obtained in one year. It + is a common theory that the manures are unnecessary, as the heavy + rains wash down the rich soils from the sides of the mountains and + fertilize the plains. The great secret is therefore for the + agriculturist to adapt his cultivation to the nature of the soil + and climate and his interest would be advanced by a judicious + rotation of crops." + + +A breezy description, though an accurate one, was given of the soil of +Guatemala by a correspondent of the Washington _Star_. Wrote this +correspondent: + + + "Instead of my own impressions of the country I would rather give + those of a North Carolina business man. He was taking the rest cure + by means of a sea voyage to San Francisco and deflected his + itinerary for a week's land journey. We traveled together to the + capital and also made a trip to the port of Champerico over the + railroad extension which has opened up new and untouched territory. + It was his first view of tropical lands except from the ship's + deck. + + "On landing at San Jose the North Carolina man looked with awe and + admiration as every tourist is bound to do on the dominating + volcano peaks Fuego and Agua, Fire and Water. But while he never + ceased to wonder at the richness of the scenery his practical + instincts asserted themselves and he punctuated the information + given him about climate, soil and products with keen observations. + He confessed that on the vessel he thought they were 'stringing' + him when they told him that the posts for the barbed wire fences + just grew, but when he saw countless miles of trees in straight + rows with the wire stretched along the trunks he paid his tribute + also to climate and soil. He knew that naturally trees don't grow + in straight rows and he found the explanation. The posts are poles + cut from the trees' branches and when stuck in the ground they + shoot up so rapidly that they soon are trees. + + "The North Carolina observer never got over his wonder at the soil. + The railroad cuts gave him a chance to see that it was not surface + richness and he easily grasped the explanation. The vegetation + grows to a certain height, then dies away, rots and forms fresh + layers of richness. This process going on for centuries has made + the fertility of the land inexhaustible. + + "The utility of volcanic eruptions was new to him and was explained + on the trip to Champerico. This is the great coffee region. It + comes within the sphere of influence of the volcano Santa Maria. + When Santa Maria was sprinkling both the sea and land with pumice + stone and ashes, on many of the fincas (plantations) there was just + enough of this lava soil after the rains had come and washed away + the surface of the deposit to renew the productiveness." + + +In another way an idea of the varied products of agricultural industry +can be had from an account given in the British Consular reports of a +model plantation. This plantation consisted of 3,000 acres. In a given +year it produced 1,200,000 pounds of coffee, 300,000 pounds of sugar, +300,000 bottles of the by-product of sugar known as aguardiente or cane +rum, 22,000 gallons of milk. Two thousand head of cattle were raised. On +this plantation from 900 to 1,300 laborers were employed. + + +COFFEE OF WORLD-WIDE FAME. + +As is well known, Guatemala's most valuable agricultural product is +coffee. The fame of Guatemala coffee is worldwide and it commands the +highest prices. The production in average years is about 70,500,000 +pounds, though in a recent year it exceeded 80,000,000 pounds. The most +productive regions are in the departments of Guatemala, Amatitlan, +Sacatepequez, Solola, Retalhuleu, Quezaltenango, San Marcos, Alta +Verapaz, Baja Verapaz, Chimaltenango, Santa Rosa and Escuintla. + +[Illustration: VISTA OF AGUNA PLANTATION.] + +The altitudes at which the coffee plant is most successfully cultivated +are between 1,500 feet and 5,000 feet above sea level, according to the +locality and quality of the soil. The temperature at which the greatest +productiveness is obtained varies from a minimum of 60 deg. Fahrenheit to a +maximum of 90 deg. In the lowlands the trees have to be shaded in order to +prevent the leaves from being scorched by the heat. There is an +abundance of native trees which answers this purpose. Occasionally, too, +bananas are raised in conjunction with coffee since their broad leaves +furnish an excellent protection. + +In districts where the mean altitude is 4,500 feet a different sort of +protection is necessary in order to shelter the coffee leaves from the +northern winds which blow during the months of December, January, and +February. In these high altitudes the ranges of hills form the best +natural protection. To bring the coffee plant to full production from +five to seven years are required, though after two years the bush will +produce about two pounds of the berry annually. The coffee plants are +raised in nurseries and afterwards transplanted to the cafetales or +coffee plantations. The critical season for the crop is the blooming +period. A heavy rainfall while the trees are in flower will seriously +damage the plants by washing away the pollen and thus preventing +fructification. This period lasts three or four days when the blossoms +fall and the cherry or berry begins to appear. The cherry reaches +maturity in October and is ready for gathering and pulping, that is, for +the removal of the outer shell and pulp. After this process it is washed +and carried to dry, spread out in brick paved yards exposed to the sun. +The grain is known as _pergamino_, or shell coffee, after the removal of +the red pulp, while it retains the inner white or yellow parchment +covering. After this parchment is removed it is known as _oro_, clean +coffee, and this is the common commercial term. + +So many elements enter into the cost of planting and bringing to +maturity a coffee plantation that it is difficult to estimate the +expenditure necessary to ensure a given profit. Experienced coffee +growers are guided largely by their knowledge of the local conditions +and requirements. However, a reasonable amount of capital in the +beginning is necessary and many investors possessing the capital prefer +to buy fincas or plantations that are already producing. + +The government of Guatemala lays an export tax of one dollar in gold. +Germany takes the bulk of the Guatemala product, though Great Britain is +a large buyer and the United States is receiving larger quantities from +year to year. With the increased facilities for transportation there +would appear to be an excellent opportunity for dealers to make a +specialty of Guatemala coffee in the United States, for the article once +introduced would be sure to have an increased consumption. + + +SUGAR AND OTHER PROFITABLE PRODUCTS. + +In 1890 Guatemala was producing barely enough sugar for its own +consumption. In 1904 it exported 6,000,000 pounds to the United States. +New Orleans is the nearest market, though shipments also may be made to +Brooklyn. The product consists of white loaf sugar, panela or coarse +brown cakes, from which the cane rum is made, miel or molasses, and +mascabado, or inferior grades. The sugar cane is of excellent quality +and the production is abundant, especially along the hot coast +districts. The departments of Escuintla, Amatitlan, and Baja Verapaz are +the districts in which the largest areas are under cultivation. As a +rule the small sugar mills are crude and modern machinery has not been +introduced to a great extent, although the largest plantations are +already supplied with the latest improvements. With the introduction on +a larger scale of modern machinery and the latest processes the sugar +industry would be certain to afford satisfactory profits. + +Cacao of a very high quality is produced in Guatemala and the native +article commands much higher prices than that produced in other +countries and brought to Guatemala for sale. The productive regions are +the _tierras calientes_ or hot coast lands. The principal cacao +producing districts are Escuintla, Suchitepequez, Solola, and +Retalhuleu. The bean is most productive at an altitude of 800 to 2,000 +feet. In some cases the shrub produces a pound of beans every four +months and after reaching maturity it is said to produce without +interruption for one hundred years. + +Notwithstanding the superior quality of the Guatemala cacao the +industry has not been carried on systematically, possibly because five +or six years are required to secure the first crop. In the last year the +total output was only 34,000 pounds, but the steady demand for cacao and +the certainty of good prices justifies the investment of capital which +can await five or six years for the first returns. The gathering of the +cacao beans requires very little machinery and few laborers. Chiefly +care must be taken not to hurt the bean or almond when breaking the +fruit wherein they are contained. One day of fermentation must then be +given to them, after which they remain exposed to the sun for six or +eight days, when they are ready to be sent to the market. + +One of the most profitable of future industries in Guatemala undoubtedly +is that of banana culture. There are vast productive regions on the +Atlantic slope and these are certain to be cultivated since the building +of the Northern Railway insures opening up the lands by giving access to +the New Orleans market within the time that is necessary for gathering +and shipping the fruit. The annual production is now about 800,000 +bunches, of which one-half are consumed at home and the balance shipped +to the United States. It is estimated that within a year after the +Northern Railway is completed the shipments to the United States will +exceed 750,000 bunches per annum and will soon amount to 1,000,000 +bunches. + +Tobacco is produced in a number of districts and there is much suitable +soil for it, but up to this time it has been raised only for local +consumption. Rice is also produced in the hot coast lands. Cotton is +grown and experiments have shown that the Sea Island cotton thrives in +Guatemala. + + +RUBBER CULTIVATION AN INVITING FIELD. + +For investments of capital that is willing to wait returns there is no +more inviting field than the cultivation of india rubber, which grows +wild in Guatemala. Each year the demand for rubber increases and the +price rises. The coast regions where the wild tree flourishes are +especially adapted to the cultivation of the product. The subject has +been given very careful attention by the Guatemalan government, which +caused investigation to be made by scientists who were familiar with the +native agriculture. The result of these investigations has been +published from time to time. + +The wild gum tree is tall with smooth greenish white bark. The milk +which is the mercantile product is contained principally in the fibres +which are attached to the woody portion of the tree between it and the +bark. The milk contains about 60% of water and other substances, while +the remaining 40% represents the salable product. The climate most +appropriate for the growth of the rubber tree is that of the hot coast +lands at an altitude not exceeding 1,500 feet. The yield of the +cultivated rubber trees has been estimated as high as three pounds +yearly from the sixth year, but the best authorities do not think that +the trees should be tapped before the ninth year and then the grower +should be satisfied with an annual yield of two and a half to three +pounds of milk, which will insure one pound of rubber. + +An estimate of the cost and probable yield of a rubber plantation as +made by Senor Horta, a leading authority, was that a plantation of +100,000 trees would require ten caballerias (about 1,100 to 1,200 +acres), and would have cost after ten years about one dollar per tree. +This expense could in part be met by secondary cultivation. According to +the calculations one crop after ten years should produce double the +amount expended in that time. + +The government encourages the cultivation of rubber, a decree having +been issued in 1899 which provided that for every 20,000 rubber plants +of four years of age and planted after the date of the decree the owner +should receive one caballeria (112 acres) of uncultivated national land. +The government, however, does not endorse nor recommend the promotion of +rubber plantations by stock companies which seek chiefly to sell the +stock among small investors in the United States. All such schemes +should be carefully investigated before the shares are bought and the +leading facts in regard to rubber production, including the necessity of +a period of at least ten years for the successful development of a +plantation, should be kept in mind. + + +BOUNTY FOR HENNEQUEN. + +The soil of Guatemala in the opinion of experts is especially adapted to +the cultivation of fibre plants of which the most valuable is hennequen +or hemp. Maguey or wild hennequen grows in various localities, +particularly in the eastern districts, where there is a large area which +it is believed can be brought under profitable cultivation for +commercial purposes. President Estrada Cabrera, in order to encourage +the cultivation of hennequen, has provided that a bounty shall be paid +to the cultivators of the plant, the scale of payment being graduated +according to the size of the plantation. Since it takes from four to +five years for the plant to mature the cultivators are allowed to +receive one-half the bounty two years after the hennequen is planted and +the balance at the end of the four years. A bounty is also to be paid +for the exportation of each 100 pounds of hennequen and the machinery +necessary on the plantation is to be imported free of duty. As a further +inducement to engage in the cultivation of the fibre the natives who +produce hennequen are to be exempted from military service in a +proportion fixed relatively to the number of acres under cultivation. +This experiment with hennequen is especially important in view of the +fact that soil which is not suitable for coffee, sugar cane or cacao is +thought to be especially well adapted to this plant. + +The number of medicinal plants produced in Guatemala is infinite. One +scientist gives a list of 339, which includes many balsams and the +aromatic plants, such as sarsaparilla and vanilla. The conditions of +vanilla cultivation are similar to those in Mexico. The vine after five +years is in full bearing and will produce from 15 to 40 beans. It is +estimated that a five-acre vanilla plantation will yield sufficient +income to render its owner independent, but this is only by the most +careful attention in cultivation. + + +MANY VARIETIES OF VALUABLE WOOD. + +There are said to be 150 kinds of Guatemala wood which are commercially +valuable, and the number of species exceeds 400. The timber area +includes the littoral forests in a narrow belt along the Pacific and +Atlantic coasts; the humid forests mixed with the prairie fields which +cover the plains from the foot of the Andean Cordilleras to the Pacific; +the moist forests of the hot zone and the temperate zone found along the +foothills of the volcanic chain and in the northern and eastern parts of +the country; the humid forests of the cold zone; the pine and oak +forests in the upland plains; the savannas and chaparral consisting of +small trees and bushes; the savannas with pines along the Atlantic coast +and the savannas of the cold zone on the highest tablelands of the +mountain. + +In the report of the Intercontinental Railway Survey Lieutenant Hill +gives a list of trees found in southeastern Guatemala which is another +illustration of the varied timber resources of the country. The list is +as follows: + +Aconacaste, conacaste, guanacaste--a light brown wood rather soft and +resembling inferior walnut. + +Amarillo--yellowish, hard, plentiful, strong; lasts well in water or +ground; used for pillars and girders in native houses. + +Cedro--reddish, easily worked; used much for boards, not very strong, +warps easily. + +Caoba--mahogany. + +Chichipate--hard, fine-grained; used in wagon-making. + +Chiche--straight grained; lasts well above ground. + +Chico--straight grained; takes high polish. + +Granadillo--dark brown, strong, plentiful; good for construction. + +Guachipilin--good for construction. + +Guapinol--hard, resembles oak in texture. + +Jicaro--bears gourdlike fruit; plentiful on llanos, used in making +saddle-trees. + +Laurel--resembles chestnut; used for furniture. + +Madre cacao--hard, takes fine polish; good for posts. + +Mario or Palo Colorado--a fine wood somewhat like mahogany. + +Matilishuate--grows large and straight; used for wagon boxes. + +Mora--dyewood. + +Jocote de Fraile--handsome wood, takes high polish. + +Ronron--fine, hardwood, takes high polish. + +Tempisque--reddish, resembles mahogany in weight and texture. + +Volador--fine tree, tall, straight trunk; good for bridges and roofs. + +With such a vast wealth of timber the importance of the railway projects +which open up the forest regions and make the markets of the United +States and Europe accessible will be appreciated. + + +ENCOURAGEMENT TO LIVESTOCK INDUSTRIES. + +Cattle raising and dairy farming are among the most profitable +agricultural industries of Guatemala, while horse-breeding also can be +made to pay unusually well. The native horse is small but very strong +and is tireless. The race horses and others obtained through the +crossing with foreign breeds imported from the United States and from +Spain, England and South America have given most satisfactory results. + +Dairy farming especially in the vicinity of the cities yields large +dividends. The cattle are largely three-quarters or half-bred natives +and Holsteins and Durhams. The pure native cows give much richer milk +than the imported stock, but they yield a very small quantity. The milk +of the thoroughbred imported cows is thin, owing probably to the +unsuitable nature of the fodder, and thus the half-bred cows are the +most profitable. + +The highlands of the interior afford very fair grazing for cattle +throughout the year. The climate is mild and equable and the stock can +remain in the pastures from January till December, while no losses are +suffered from severe weather in winter. Most of the country is well +watered. The native mules are superior to the horses for long journeys +or heavy loads and as a rule they command higher prices. Pigs are raised +with little difficulty and fetch a high price, since pork is one of the +favorite foods on many of the plantations and in the villages inhabited +by Indians. The hogs are allowed to run loose and feed on nourishing +roots, acorns and maize. The sheep industry is capable of development at +the hands of experienced sheep-raisers. There are many flocks and the +quality of both the mutton and the wool is capable of improvement. + + +MINES AND MINING. + +The mineral riches of Guatemala, while not unknown, may be said to be +unexploited. Owing to the varied geological formations the belief both +of geologists and of practical miners is that they offer a promising +field for development. The minerals include quartz and gold, silver and +galenas, copper, coal and lignite, manganese, asbestos, graphite, +kaolin, opals, slate, alum, marble, silver, mica, iron, sulphur, lead. + +The mining archives of colonial days show that between the years 1627 +and 1820 more than 1,300 mines of gold, silver, lead, copper, tin, iron, +and one of quicksilver, were discovered and worked, and were a source of +great revenue both to the Church and the State. History records that +during the earliest Spanish occupancy of that country enormous +quantities of gold and silver were taken from those mines. At one time +more than one hundred and fifty very rich mines were worked there. From +one group the mint of Guatemala coined silver to the amount of +$43,000,000, besides what was shipped directly to Europe. + +[Illustration: BRIDGE OVER MOTAGUA RIVER.] + +In an official report made by the Director of the chemical laboratory to +the Minister of Finance these statements are made, based on samples that +had been submitted for analysis and which were obtained for the most +part in the eastern region of the country. + + + "Zinc, copper, lead, and silver predominate in these regions, + being generally found in argentiferous blends and galenas, and + sometimes both metals in conjunction with carbonates of copper. The + proportion of the lead varies from 20 to 25% in the galenas and the + blends contain from 15 to 40% of zinc. + + "The proportion of silver varies from 200 grammes to 7 kilos (17 + pounds), allowing one to calculate on an average of from 2 to 3 + kilos. The beds extend to the tablelands on which the capital is + situated, stretching as far as the Department of Jalapa, where the + lead disappears sometimes completely, the silver being found alone. + The veins stretch to the valley of the Motagua, disappearing for + some time on the left bank of that river and reappearing again to + the north of Solama, following a straight line to Huehuetenango, + although the quantity of silver in this region is less than in the + beds in the southeast of the Republic. + + "Copper, one of the metals which is most abundant in the country, + is generally found in oxicarbonate in beds of sediment. It appears + in the neighborhood of the capital and various other points. These + beds continue up to the Mexican frontier along the banks of the + river Salega and round the town of Cuilco, but the nature of the + metal changes little by little, passing from the carbonates to + oxisulphates mixed with iron and soon the copper disappears + altogether. In the eastern region abundant deposits of carbonates + of copper are found principally in the Department of Chiquimula, + mixed in many cases with other metals such as zinc, lead, and + silver. + + "Lignite of excellent quality is found in beds near the Atlantic + coast, a very great consideration in the development of mineral + industries." + + +Captain Rae of the United States, who spent several years in Guatemala +and who wrote authoritatively concerning the mineral resources of the +country, said that he had found near the northwestern frontier large +quantities of low grade gold sulphuret ores and also rich lead ores +carrying a small percentage of silver as well as some good copper +carbonates. He said that the lead ores were of the best clean +carbonates, easily smelted by fuel alone, and had been rudely exploited +principally for the lead they contained. These silver lead mines of low +grades of silver were in the vicinity of Chiantla, and the belt +extended, he said, northwest, breaking out again in heavy deposits +bearing silver from $12 to $40 a ton and lead 80%. + +Captain Rae gave the following further details: + + + "Still further east in the Lacodor country are found immense + deposits of the same character of ore, which seemed to lie as if + thrown up in volcanic upheavals. In some places the lead is found + in small nuggets entirely pure. Large deposits of black lead or + plumbago exist both north and south of Huehuetenango of a good + class and ready for commerce. + + "Auriferous gravel beds are found at different points on the Rio + Grande in the Department of Baja Verapaz which prospect well for + heavy course gold. The working of these beds is confined to the + immediate river banks, done by the natives in a very rude manner, + merely scooping out the choicest streaks of goldbearing gravel and + washing it in wooden bowls. These beds seem to be well defined and + extend back through the flats to the hills. + + "Also some gold formation is found along the Rio Platanos and Vacas + two affluents of the Rio Grande that flow into it from the south + side and nearly opposite to one of these goldbearing gravel beds. + Further down the river on the north mountain range there exists + asbestos in several places and from a surface prospect the texture + is of a good variety and free from all foreign substances varying + in color from deep gray to snowy white, the fibres measuring as + much as 6 inches in length. + + "In the Department of Izabal lying on the Atlantic or gulf coast, + on the lower waters of the Motagua and Polichis rivers, there + exists rich and extensive beds of gold placers which have been + worked for several years in a primitive way and have yielded a + large amount of gold dust. + + "In the foothills of Livingston stone coal has been found of the + lignite variety and said to make good combustible. On the opposite + side of the Gulf of Dulce from the coal deposits are large deposits + of magnetic iron ores, ranging from 60 to 70 per cent. of iron. + These deposits lie only a few leagues from water communication on + the Gulf and also close to the Northern Railway." + + +The following description of the various mineral districts is from _The +Bristol Board of Trade journal_: + + + "The principal known mining districts of Guatemala are situated on + the eastern boundary, both to the north and also the south, in the + Departments of Chiquimula and Izabal, adjoining the Republic of + Honduras and that of Salvador. These districts are mountainous, + and, owing to their complete isolation and lack of communication + with the other parts of the Republic and the difficulty of + procuring supplies, there being at the moment very few roads, this + part is not generally known to the outer world. + + "On the western boundary, in the Department of Huehuetenango and + near to Chiantla, there are said to be very rich copper mines, + similar to those of Chiapas, in Mexico. These are now being + explored, but so far no copper has been found, though the district + is rich in lead and a small percentage of silver. The assays that + have come to hand show 56 per cent. of lead and 40 ounces per ton + of silver. In many other parts of the Republic mines have been + discovered and mining rights secured, such as at San Cristobal and + Aguil, in the Department of Alta Verapaz; near Rabinal and Pichec, + in Baja Verapaz; at San Pedro, in the Department of Guatemala; also + at Mataquescuintla, in the mines of Algeria and Rosario, in the + Department of Santa Rosa; at Zalcuapa and Joyabaj, on the Rio + Grande, in the Department of El Quiche; but the only mines that + have recently been worked, and which have given and are giving fair + results, are those of Quebradas de Oro, on the River Bobos, in the + Department of Izabal, where gold has been washed in paying + quantities. + + "The district where mines have been denounced (pre-empted) and in + some instances worked, lies between the Rio de Concepcion to the + north and the Rio de las Minas to the south; the mining district + alluded to is nearly due east of Los Sillones, on the finca of San + Jose. This estate is in the Department of Chiquimula, and a society + was formed under the name of Societe Horta y Cia., which obtained + mining rights from the Government for a term of fifteen years with + the right to import free of duty all material, machinery, and + necessary appliances. But until the present time very little has + been done, owing to the isolated position of these mines and the + difficulty of establishing communication, though the construction + of a small line, which might connect with the Guatemala or Northern + Railway at Chiquimula, has been under consideration, but the funds + for the carrying out of this project have, it is understood, been + lacking. This, if built, would do away with the transportation + difficulty." + + +There is no difficulty in the work of mining in Guatemala since the +climate in the mining regions is temperate and healthful. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +TRADE AND MARKETS. + + +Guatemala, because of its nearness, is an unusually good market for the +products of the United States. With the increase in the transportation +facilities which will result from railway building and other +transportation enterprises that will add to the ocean shipping +facilities the business should increase greatly if merchants and +manufacturers in the United States choose to take advantage of it. + +Official support is given this view by the reports of the American +Consuls in Guatemala. Consul General Winslow has frequently called +attention to the advantages which may be obtained. In one report he +stated that large quantities of groceries, flour, potatoes, shoes, +drygoods, and clothing come from the United States, but Germany and +England seem to have the lead in machinery and hardware. There is surely +a fine opening in these latter lines for exporters of the United States, +but they must be in position to push their goods personally, to give +longer credits, and to take more pains with packing. In all, it is safe +to say, there are $8,000,000 of American capital invested in Guatemala +and there is an opening for much more, if it is backed by the right kind +of management. + +In a report, to the British Foreign Office in 1905 Mr. Hervey, the +English Consul, stated that as far as actual volume of business was +concerned, as shown in the imports and exports, there appeared to have +been a distinct improvement in the general trade of the country compared +with immediately preceding years. The imports were the largest for the +past seven years. The revenue of the country showed a great improvement +all around, being, in fact, nearly double that of 1903, the most +important increases being shown in import and export duties, the former +benefiting by the 50 per cent. of their total payable in gold, and the +latter by the tax of $1 gold per quintal which has been collected +throughout the year. + +The outlook for the future was, the report said, more favorable than it +had been for many years. The completion of the Guatemala Northern +Railway would shorten the distance from Europe and the United States and +promote trade. Already German and British steamers were calling at +Puerto Barrios in addition to those of the United Fruit Company. The +greater steadiness of exchange and the fall in the gold premium were +further factors of importance in restoring confidence. With continued +peace, and with it the prospect of increased labor facilities, so that +the agricultural and mineral wealth to be won from the soil may attain +to its fullest development, brighter days were dawning for Guatemala. + + +ARTICLES BROUGHT FROM OTHER COUNTRIES. + +A general statement regarding the articles which Guatemala buys abroad +and which therefore are of interest to exporters is as follows: + +The principal imports consist of drygoods, almost exclusively cotton +manufactures, brought from Great Britain, the United States, and +Germany. In this branch British manufacture commands the market, the +imports from the United States and Germany being relatively small. The +more important articles are gray cloths; bleached shirtings, 7-8 and 9-8 +prints; fancy cloths; gray, white, and blue drills; colored drills; +handkerchiefs; gray and dyed yarns; Turkey red yarns; sewing cottons; +trimmings; cotton blankets, etc. Of these goods about 75 per cent. are +of British origin, 15 per cent. American, and 10 per cent. German. +American manufacturers compete chiefly in drills, denims, blankets, +prints, gray cloths, and bleached shirtings, while German goods imported +consist chiefly of drills, prints, Turkey red yarns, blankets, and +trimmings. + +Woolen goods are not in very great demand; the principal lines are +blankets, shawls, braids, hats, Berlin wool, and but few piece goods. + +Hats are imported mostly from the United States, Germany, and only a few +from the United Kingdom; shawls from Germany, principally; piece goods +from Germany, France, and the United Kingdom. + +Silks are not in demand, excepting floss silks imported from China, +ribbons from Switzerland, France, and Germany. Regarding hardware +generally, approximately 50 per cent. is imported from Germany, 30 per +cent. from the United States, and 20 per cent. from the United Kingdom. + +The principal imports from the United States consist of machetes, axes, +and hoes, besides tools generally of the better classes, corn mills, +plows, sewing machinery, outfits for building purposes, saws, barbed +wire, files, screws, cutlery, ropes, brushes, enameled goods, paints, +and varnishes and breadstuffs. + +The imports from the United Kingdom are chiefly composed of +galvanized-iron sheets, galvanized-iron goods, coffee machinery, copper +sheets, tin goods, machetes, hoes, sickles, picks, pickaxes, saltpeter, +pans (used on sugar plantations), iron sheets, saws, padlocks, cutlery, +saddlery, bits, spurs, brass valves and cocks, pottery, cartridges, also +preserves and biscuits. + +From Germany are brought all kinds of cheap tools, machinery, sewing +machines, cutlery, machetes, bar iron, enameled goods, pottery, locks, +screws, nails, window glass, brushes, paper, matches, stearin and +ceresin, part of these goods being also brought from Belgium and the +Netherlands, while France ships tools for shoemakers' and saddlers' use. + +The articles which Guatemala buys in exchange for her coffee, sugar, +fruits, woods and other products in the customs classification are +divided into three groups; that is, articles of prime necessity, +articles of luxury or convenience, and articles for the industries. + +The first and most important group includes cotton and woolen goods, +wheat flour, rice, corn, potatoes, salt, wax and stearine candles, +matches, soap, petroleum, glass and earthenware, and kitchen hardware. + +The second group covers the finer grade of woolens, silks, mineral +waters, liquors, preserves in cans, manufactured tobacco, glassware, +porcelain, toys, musical instruments, perfumery, etc. + +The third group consists of coal, woodworking machinery, cured hides, +raw cotton, sacks, lubricating oils, farm implements and a variety of +machinery. + + +CLASS OF IMPORTS FROM THE UNITED STATES. + +The shipments with which up to this time the United States has been most +successful in furnishing Guatemala can be understood from a summary of +the articles sent out under a consular invoice from various ports. The +exportations from the port of New Orleans during a recent year were as +follows: + + + NAME OF ARTICLES. VALUE. + Linseed oil $168 + Petroleum, etc. 2,534 + Tar 255 + Live animals 5,447 + Rice 974 + Empty barrels 116 + Coal 185 + Cement 422 + Cistern materials 648 + Dynamite 249 + Drugs 1,972 + Hardware 19,468 + Cotton goods 45,733 + Iron bars 338 + Wheat flour 15,817 + Surgical instruments 281 + Locomotives 7,465 + Earthenware 1,122 + Manufactured woods, railroad ties, etc. 55,772 + Indian corn 16,335 + Malt 474 + Cable rope 1,874 + Gentlemen's furnishings 2,724 + Gasolene motors 285 + Furniture 657 + Umbrellas 444 + Provisions 23,127 + Bridge material 18,794 + Salt 2,136 + Hats 452 + Whiskey 978 + Shoes 1,531 + + +From the port of Mobile shipments were as follows: + + + Wheat flour $10,196 + Cotton goods 9,916 + Canned meats 2,108 + Cornmeal 1,316 + Hardware 804 + Alimentary conserves 777 + Butter 676 + Beer in bottles 572 + Petroleum 523 + Vegetables 507 + Coal 420 + Hay 405 + Dried fish 376 + Footwear 362 + Stearine candles 317 + Matches 300 + Condensed milk 238 + Soap 228 + Lard 206 + Fruit preserves 204 + Cheese 173 + Rice 168 + Miscellaneous food products 1,700 + + +The exports from New York, which average about $75,000 per month, are +composed chiefly of the following articles: + + + Galvanized wire Lubricating oil + Alimentary articles Electrical equipments + Betum Iron pipes + Glassware Cured hides + Beer Drugs + Photographic material Hardware + Cotton goods Agricultural implements + Soap Jewelry + Earthenware Sewing machines + Railway material Medicines + Typewriters Miscellaneous machinery + Plated goods Perfumery + Paper Petroleum + Watches Weighing scales + Hats Whiskey + Chintz Leather ware + + +From the port of San Francisco the annual shipments amount to +approximately $1,000,000. The principal articles are flour, wheat, hops, +corn, barley, oats, cotton, furniture, machinery, beers, wines, and +whiskies. The articles imported at San Francisco are chiefly coffee, +sugar, cacao, rubber, hides and lumber. + + +HOW THE COMMERCE IS DIVIDED. + +While the United States has a fair share of the trade the proportion is +not as large as it might be if systematic efforts were made. In the last +year for which statistics are available the foreign commerce of +Guatemala amounted to $12,593,000, of which $5,041,000 was imports and +$7,552,000 exports. Germany, which takes the bulk of the coffee crop, is +the largest consumer. In the year quoted it took 53.79% of the total +exportations from Guatemala North America (chiefly United States) +25.86%. England, 15.37%, and France 2.4%. + +The exportation of the various countries to Guatemala in percentage +terms was as follows: United States 36.59%; England, 22.62%; Germany, +19.97%; France, 9.21%; South America, 2.82%; Central America, 1.83%; +Mexico, 1.69%; Spain, 1.54%; Italy, 1.32%; Belgium and Holland, 1.27%; +other countries, 1.14%. + +In detail the value of the goods imported by Guatemala in the given +year was: from Germany, $1,019,000; United States, $1,442,000; England, +$1,038,000; France, $175,000; Belgium, $114,000. No other country except +the above exported to Guatemala goods exceeding $100,000 in value. Of +the exports from Guatemala, chiefly coffee, as previously stated, +Germany took $3,508,000; the United States $2,292,000; England, +$1,282,000. + +President Estrada Cabrera in his annual message commented on the balance +of trade in favor of Guatemala and expressed himself very hopefully +concerning the measures of internal development which could be carried +on while the conditions of foreign commerce were so satisfactory. + +Since a portion of the revenue of Guatemala is raised from the export +tax on coffee it is possible to maintain a very moderate schedule of +import duties and this is done. The average duty on the group of +articles described under the heading of prime necessity is 23.67% _ad +valorem_. On the second group 30.84% and on the third group 7.60%. The +duties are equitably distributed so as to bear lightly on everything +that enters into the industrial upbuilding of the country. Moreover, +special concessions are sometimes made on material for railway and other +enterprises which enter into the national development. + +The general rules regarding the application of the tariff are very +clear. They are formulated with a view to saving annoyance to shippers +and are specific enough to avoid uncertainty. Import duties are not +high. The list of articles which it is prohibited to import is a short +one. + +The charges for invoices on shipments to Guatemala are as follows: + + + Ship's manifest $10.00. + Validating invoices of from $1 to $100 7.00. + " " " 100 " 500 10.00. + " " " 501 " 1000 14.00. + " " " 1001 " 3000 16.00. + " " " 3001 " 6000 20.00. + + +For each additional $1000 the Consuls will collect $2. + +The government officials of Guatemala and the merchants gave hearty +support to the project of an exposition ship or floating exposition +which was undertaken on the Pacific coast in order to display American +products and manufactures and at the same time familiarize American +firms with the products of other countries. + + +EXCHANGE AND BANKS. + +In the conduct of its foreign commerce reasonably long credits are +required by the merchants of Guatemala, but always under fixed +conditions. When the coffee crop is shipped bills on Europe and on New +York can always be procured at reasonable exchange and the obligations +be met in this manner. Since the balance of trade is in favor of +Guatemala there is always the certainty of funds for exchange. + +Under President Estrada Cabrera's administration the banks of the +country are subject to a regulation somewhat similar to the national +banks of the United States. Various decrees have been issued governing +the emission of banknotes. The latest decree institutes a special bank +examination project and requires all the financial institutions to give +an account of their condition and operations to this Department. + +The following statistics as to the leading banks of Guatemala have been +compiled from recent reports: + + +GUATEMALAN BANK (BANCO DE GUATEMALA). + + Capital subscribed and totally paid $2,500,000 00 + Reserve fund 655,000 00 + Contingent fund 292,208 67 + Fund available for dividends 200,000 00 + + Manager: Carlos Gallusser. + + +OCCIDENTAL BANK (BANCO DE OCCIDENTE). + + Capital authorized $2,000,000 00 + Capital paid 1,650,000 00 + Reserve fund 1,200,000 00 + Contingent fund 1,200,000 00 + + Manager: Rufino Ibarguen. + + +INTERNATIONAL BANK (BANCO INTERNACIONAL). + + Capital subscribed and totally paid $2,000,000 00 + Reserve fund 1,507,000 00 + Contingent fund 281,918 76 + + Manager: Carlos B. Pullin. + + +COLUMBIAN BANK (BANCO COLOMBIANO). + + Capital paid $1,776,000 00 + Reserve fund 797,747 94 + Sinking fund 454,189 84 + Fund available for dividends 69,227 74 + + Director: F. L. de Villa. + + +AMERICAN BANK (BANCO AMERICANO). + + Capital authorized $1,200,000 00 + + Manager: A. Beckford. + + +AGRICULTURAL MORTGAGE BANK (BANCO AGRICOLA-HIPOTECARIO). + + Capital authorized $12,000,000 00 + + Manager: A. Prentice. + + +All these are banks of emission and discount with headquarters in +Guatemala City and with branches in the other principal cities of the +departments. They also to some degree supply the place of mercantile +agencies and report financial standing of individuals, firms and +companies upon solicitation. + +It is known to be the great ambition of President Estrada Cabrera to +place the finances of Guatemala on a solid basis during his present +term. The rate of exchange under the stability now afforded and the +improved industrial and commercial conditions has been steadily falling. + +A final word concerning the opportunities for American enterprise is +convincing when it comes from official sources. In one of his reports +Consul General Winslow said: + + + "During the past few months the exporters of the United States have + been doing some effective work in this Republic. There have been + several commercial travelers here studying the conditions and + taking sample orders. Many others have been asking for information + from this Consulate-General, which has been able to give valuable + information. If this field is properly worked and sufficiently long + credit is given, practically nothing but American goods need be + found in the markets of Guatemala, for they are generally conceded + to be the best. This market is worth cultivating, for the next few + years will see great development here. Everything points that way, + and the natural resources are great. The opening up of the new + railroad to the Atlantic coast at Puerto Barrios will do wonders + for the country. More attention is being paid to the packing of + goods shipped to this country. It is an important matter and cannot + have too much attention on the part of exporters. Packages should + be very firmly nailed and bound by band iron, so they would be + difficult to open, as there is much complaint about goods being + stolen from boxes in transit. I have had several compliments of + late from the custom officers for the way shipments of American + goods have come packed. It will pay exporters to pack well + everything they ship. Dollars spent in this line will bring + hundreds in profits. This is especially true for Central American + ports." + + +Supplementary to the above was a report from Vice-Consul General Owen in +which these observations were made: + + + "The following drygoods of American manufacture are becoming quite + popular here: Brown cotton, all grades; cotton duck, Lindale, up to + 6 ounces; light domestics; long cloth; gingham; cotton drill, + checks and stripes (cheviot); blue and brown cotton drill; fancy + calicoes and lawns; cotton ware, all colors. The piece of 24 yards + is the most popular, although cotton cheviots, gingham, etc., come + put up in larger pieces. Dress patterns in lawn and calico are + frequently imported. + + "It must be borne in mind that the importers of this Republic are + for the greater part Germans, and their interest and inclination + lead them to trade with the fatherland. England also is preferred + over the United States, possibly because Guatemala merchants can + more easily identify themselves in England and get better credits. + American goods therefore are imported only when their quality + places them so far ahead of the European article that the merchant + is almost compelled to have them in stock. The American + manufacturers should become better acquainted with this trade, + ascertain who are worthy of credit, and extend it. The long voyage + and delay _en route_ compel the importer to ask long credits. It is + sometimes two or three months after shipments destined for this + city leave the manufacturer before they can be displayed in the + store of the importer. The custom duty on about all cotton goods is + collected on gross weight of the package. Great care should be + taken with invoices for custom-house purposes; the goods must be + described in exact phraseology of Guatemala custom tariff." + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +CLIMATE AND IMMIGRATION. + + +The population of Guatemala according to the general census of the +Republic taken at the beginning of 1904 was 1,842,000. This was the +actual enumeration, but as there were many cases in which a complete +account was not possible the inhabitants probably number 2,000,000. Of +those enumerated by races 750,615 were Ladinos, and 1,091,519 were of +the aboriginal race. The Ladinos are the descendants of the white race +and of a mixture of European and Indian. The Indian population is +principally engaged in farming and in small commercial enterprises in +the interior. The Ladinos are much more energetic. The natives of the +high and cold regions are the most vigorous. + +For many years it has been the aim of the Guatemalan government to +attract foreign immigration. Under President Estrada Cabrera's +administration systematic measures for this purpose have been taken and +the policy of encouraging immigrants and colonists, especially from the +United States, has become a settled one. Practically one-half the +fertile territory is yet uncultivated for want of tenants and there are +many agricultural industries which require a very small amount of +capital while they assure independence to those who follow them. + +The first question asked is whether the natives of the temperate +regions, Europeans and North Americans, can live and work in the +climate. The answer is that there are large areas suitable for them +where they may engage in coffee-growing, dairying, stock-raising and +similar occupations. + +The districts known as the Highlands or "Los Altos" are at an average +elevation of 5,000 feet and comprise some of the most inviting sections +of Guatemala. The uplands include Quezaltenango, Solola, Quiche, +Huehuetenango, Totonicapam, and San Marcos. + + +THE THREE ZONES. + +Usually in describing the country it is divided into three zones. The +_tierra caliente_, or hot lands, comprise the coast of the Atlantic and +the Pacific ocean. + +The _tierra templada_, or temperate zone, covers the central plains +which range from 2,000 to 5,000 feet above the sea level. + +The _tierra fria_, or cold zone, comprises the highlands as noted above. + +The year is divided into two seasons, the winter or rainy season lasting +from May till October, and the dry season. The hottest months are March +and April and the coldest ones December and January. Except along the +coast the average temperature throughout the year is about 72 deg. +Fahrenheit. The climate on the coast is rendered endurable by the +refreshing sea breezes which blow for several hours every day. Many +people who live in the uplands in the rarefied atmosphere find it +agreeable and beneficial to their health to spend a few weeks every +season on the coast lands. The climate would be hot and moist except for +the variations caused by the mountains which oppose themselves not only +to the prevailing winds but also in rainfalls to the humidity of the +air. The winds are from the east and north, although along the Pacific +coast there are southern and southwestern winds at certain times in the +year. In regard to rainfall the general rule is that the regions +confronting the moist winds from the ocean have abundant precipitation +while those defended by mountain ranges from the sea winds are dry. + +The climate taking the country as a whole is an unusually healthy one. +Fevers are not common and when they exist are confined to the warm and +humid coast regions. No peculiar climatic disease exists in Guatemala +and the country rarely suffers from epidemics. This is largely due to +the strict sanitary measures which are enforced by the government. + + +A POETICAL AND PRACTICAL DESCRIPTION. + +The following account of the climate in popular language is given by a +well-known authority: + + + "The territory of the Republic belongs to the torrid zone comprised + among the intertropical countries which are exempt from the + rigorous winters of the countries of Europe, North and South + America, and the Far East. The vegetation which droops in the dry + season recovers a marvelous exuberance in the season of the rains. + In every part it is encountered then rehabited in the most splendid + garb of nature. The tropical countries at this period certainly are + the motherland of all the plants which are cultivated throughout + the world when as in the case of our Republic there are hot, + temperate and cold zones in which the vegetation is perpetual and + flourishes in the regions which possess perennial springs of + flowing water to moisten the cultivated lands in the season of the + drouths. + + "The knowledge of the climates is of the highest importance for the + agriculturist. It is his guide in the experiments for acclimatizing + exotic plants which he seeks to introduce into his properties. + + "The climate of a locality varies through the background of the + mountains, through its sloping direction, its nearness to the sea, + to the lakes, and to the selvas; through the direction and the + forces of the periodical winds. + + "Setting out from the low coastlands and ascending to the regions + of the Altos or highlands, the naturalist admires successively the + exuberant vegetation of the tropics and that of the cold countries. + + "On account of the topography of the territory we have in the + different zones of the Republic different climates characterized by + our two seasons--that of the rains, our winter, and that of the + dryness, our summer; characterized too by the intensity of the heat + in the low zones of the coasts and by the crisp cold in the high + plateaus of our mountains; by the force and duration of the + periodic winds of the Northwest which in certain regions of the + Republic blow with a violence harmful to agriculture. + + "The temperature in the low zones fluctuates between 26 deg. and 35 deg. + centigrade, averaging 28 deg. In the zones ranging from 3,000 to 5,000 + feet above sea level the temperature fluctuates between 16 deg. and + 24 deg., the average being 20 deg. to 22 deg. centigrade. In the high zones or + cold lands the temperature varies from 8 deg. to 15 deg., the medium being + 12 deg. or 13 deg. In these zones from December to the end of March the + temperature drops during the night to 1 deg. centigrade and other times + to 3 deg. or 4 deg. + + "The rains commence in May or June and continue until the middle of + November. They are most violent from July to October. In the months + of September and October there are sometimes storms and copious + rains which last almost continuously from one to two weeks. + + "Heavy dews are numerous and at times very copious in the summer in + the low zones close to the sea, the lakes and the big marshes and + also in the higher zones through the condensation of the vapors + which absorb the sun's rays and become more condensed on reaching + the colder regions of the atmosphere. + + "The northeast winds are periodical and blow almost without + interruption throughout the summer and with great violence on the + coasts of the north and in the eastern sections of the country. The + winds on the south coast are much milder and those in the western + sections are insignificant. + + "Under this drouthlike action the vegetation withers in the hot and + dry zones. It flourishes most in the districts which possess + perennial springs of running water for fertilizing. + + "In the season of the rains there are strong hurricanes of southern + winds which cause damage to agriculture, but happily they are not + frequent. + + "From the description of the varied climates of the Republic it + will be seen that they are adapted to the cultivation of the + richest tropical plants and for all the agricultural and industrial + produce which is cultivated in the cold and temperate zones of the + entire world. + + "Besides, its vegetative season is one of perpetual cultivation, + and in the plantations which possess water for irrigating the + cultivated lands three crops a year can be raised in the hot zones + as well as the temperate regions, and two crops of the cereals, + wheat and Indian corn, in the cold regions; that is to say, the + feeding of 30,000,000 inhabitants is possible besides fruits for a + very extensive exportation." + + +AIDS TO AGRICULTURE. + +In a country so largely agricultural as Guatemala is the measures for +the encouragement of farming may be taken as a means of judging the +interest shown by the government. On this point President Estrada +Cabrera in a recent message said: + + + "Agriculture as the prime factor of our richness has been the + object of special attention during the last seven years of my + administration. In order to broaden and improve it there has been + established in the capital the General Department of Agriculture + and in the districts and municipalities Boards for the same + purpose. This Department has been authorized to publish a + periodical _The Bulletin of Agriculture_ which is given over + exclusively to important farming studies. Seeds and plants have + been brought from other countries and distributed among our farmers + in order to establish new sources of production. Strict orders have + been issued to secure the cultivation of the largest areas possible + and also for establishing common seed grounds. Regulations have + been made for the exploitation of rubber. In every possible manner + the importation of farm tools and agricultural machinery has been + facilitated. Contracts have been made for the exploitation of the + woods in the forests of the north. Schools of agriculture have been + created in order to further the study of these subjects by the + issue of special bulletins under the direction of the Department of + Agriculture." + + +[Illustration: STREET IN ESCUINTLA.] + + +LEADING POINTS OF IMMIGRATION LAW. + +A general immigration law was passed several years ago which has been +supplemented by other laws since that time. At the outset immigration +contracts with the Chinese are prohibited and the latter are not to be +accepted as immigrants. The purpose of this is to insure white +immigration and to prevent cheap coolie labor of a temporary character +interfering with settlers who wish to establish themselves permanently. +Immigrants are described as those foreigners having a profession, +occupation or trade, whether day laborers, artisans, workingmen in +factories, farmers or professors, who give up their own homes to come +and settle in Guatemala and accept their transportation to be paid +either by the Guatemalan government or by an immigration company. +Immigrants also include the foreigners whose transportation is not paid +by the government or by private companies. The wearing apparel and +household furniture, tools, domestic animals and other possessions of +immigrants are entered at the custom-house free of duty. + +An important provision authorizes the government to grant gratuitously +to immigrants lots of public lands in certain districts provided that +the immigrants bind themselves to cultivate within two years the third +part of the land granted. For this purpose zones of tillable land are +set apart in the districts named. + +Immigrants are exempted for a period of four years after their arrival +from service in the construction or repair of the public roads and from +the payment of municipal taxes. They are also exempted from military +service except in the case of foreign war. They enjoy all the rights and +privileges granted by law to Guatemalan citizens. + + +PUBLIC LANDS FOR SETTLERS. + +Under a general law a body of official engineers was created for +surveying and distributing the uncultivated public lands and fixing the +prices therefor. The price varies according to the nature of the land, +whether it is for grazing, raising cereals; whether capable of raising +sugar, banana, etc.; whether adapted to coffee and cotton, or whether it +contains forests. Public lands may also be granted to immigrants +gratuitously. Information on these points can be had through +correspondence with the Department of Agriculture called "Direccion +General de Agricultura," in Guatemala City. + +President Estrada Cabrera's land policy has been directed especially to +prevent great areas from being kept out of cultivation. He has dictated +many measures with the purpose of breaking up the huge estates that +often are uncultivated for want of capital and making them productive +through the encouragement of small capitalists or farmers. + +The general system of highways and cart roads as well as of the +railroads has been devised for this purpose. + +With regard to colonization and immigration the policy of securing the +benefit of the favored soil to settlers has been indicated in the +correspondence with various companies and individuals. In a report by +the Director of Agriculture he declared that immigration from North +America would be very pleasing to Guatemala and would strengthen the +cordial relations existing between the two countries. That the +immigrants will be well received he was assured. Their practical +character would be especially valuable in developing the resources of +the country. The Director, however, called attention to the fact that in +many places of the country the geological conditions were not similar to +the prairies of the United States where in the beginning very much could +be accomplished on a large scale by machinery. In many of the districts +open to settlement in Guatemala much of the work of clearing would have +to be done by hand. That is one reason why encouragement is given to the +individual settlers instead of to companies. + +To broaden and strengthen the present immigration law the Department of +Agriculture has recommended that certain lands be thrown open to +settlement on the following conditions: + +1. The government shall make the plan for the colony dividing the lands +into lots of one caballeria (112 acres). + +2. The settler shall take immediate possession of the lot which is +granted him. + +3. The government shall aid the removal of the colonists from their +present place of residence to the point where they intend to settle. +This aid to be extended under conditions which will insure its +repayment. + +4. The colonists on taking possession of their land shall obligate +themselves to begin cultivating some of the following articles: rice, +corn, beans, coffee, cacao, vanilla, rubber, cotton, hemp, etc. + +5. The government shall designate from among the colonists some one who +shall give general instruction with regard to the farming. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS. + + +Friendly relations with all countries, both neighboring and distant, is +a leading point in President Estrada Cabrera's programme. The relations +of Guatemala with the United States are particularly close and cordial. + +In his annual message President Estrada Cabrera said: + + + "It is well known that the grand Republic of North America always + has shown the most sympathetic regard for our country and the + earnest effort of my government has been to strengthen the ties of + friendship which unite the two nations. With this feeling existing + there has been achieved during the period since 1898 the most + flattering results, so that it can be confidently stated that never + before have the relations between Guatemala and the United States + reached so great a degree of cordiality as to-day, and it may be + said that never has any cause of discord between the two + governments been so remote as now. The death of the illustrious + President McKinley, which was felt so deeply in Guatemala, and the + advent into the Presidency of Mr. Roosevelt in no way interrupted + the progress of affairs with our Republic and those which were + pending followed their tranquil course towards a satisfactory + arrangement." + + +The Secretary of Foreign Relations in his annual report said: + + + "Motives analogous to those which in foreign governments have + caused congratulation over the re-election of Senor Estrada Cabrera + as President of Guatemala have made it pleasing that the government + of this Republic on its part could extend its congratulations over + the re-election in the United States and Mexico respectively of + Messrs. Roosevelt and Diaz, two eminent statesmen whose + conciliatory policies are well known, as likewise their sympathetic + regard for Guatemala. The continuation of these illustrious + personages in power is considered by this government as a guaranty + of the increasing cordiality of the relations of Guatemala with + them and it has also enabled at the same time to be placed in + evidence with all sincerity the satisfaction which has been + produced by their re-election in their respective countries." + + +These are correct statements, for the sentiment of profound sympathy and +admiration which President Estrada Cabrera and the whole people of +Guatemala entertain for President Roosevelt and for the American people +are very marked. For President Roosevelt on account of his grand traits +of character, of mentality and of heart and the spirit of humanity, +justice and rectitude which make of him the chief magistrate most +conspicuous, most respected, most popular and most cherished of the +present day; and for the American people on account of their +intelligence, their enterprising disposition and their unceasing labors +for progress, which have gained for them so pre-eminent a place among +all the nations of the earth as one of the grandest, most nourishing and +most powerful. + + +ADHERENCE TO THE HAGUE PEACE PRINCIPLES. + +These quotations indicate the sentiment of Guatemala towards the two +countries with which geographically and otherwise it is most closely +allied. Further evidence of the friendship for the United States and of +the desire to sustain its policies of international peace were afforded +in the promptness with which President Roosevelt's suggestion of a +second Peace Conference in The Hague was accepted. With regard to the +United States the Secretary of Foreign Affairs stated: + + + "Knowing the importance of our relations with the great American + nation it was a grateful duty to send a special mission to + Washington with the sole object of congratulating President + Roosevelt. For the discharge of this function Senor Jorge Munoz was + selected and he discharged it with entire satisfaction to the + government. This mission having been disposed of he was accredited + permanently as Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary. + + "Inasmuch as it was not one of the ancient nations of Europe, but a + young and virile Republic, the strongest in America, which launched + the project through its distinguished President of a second Hague + Conference to perfect and complete the works of the first one in + favor of universal peace, it is to be hoped that this effort will + be seconded by all the countries of the civilized world and that at + no distant time when experience shall have shown the deficiencies + in the conclusions adopted by previous Congresses those which may + be adopted in the coming Peace Conference will be more efficacious + for the success of the humanitarian and praiseworthy end which the + United States proposes." + + +Guatemala previously had given its adhesion to the principles of +arbitration promulgated under The Hague Convention. It was represented +in the Second International American Conference held in Mexico +1901-1902, and the various treaties and recommendations made by that +Conference were ratified or endorsed as in the case of the other +signatory governments. The action taken by the government of Guatemala +on the respective conventions and recommendations was officially +transmitted to Senor Mariscal, Secretary of Foreign Relations of Mexico, +in accordance with the resolution of the Conference. + + +PECUNIARY CLAIMS ARBITRATION. + +Among the treaties promulgated by the Pan-American Conference in Mexico +was one relating to pecuniary claims. This required the ratification of +five governments in order to make it effective. Guatemala was one of the +first to give its formal adhesion to this convention. This treaty was +ratified by the United States Senate and promulgated by the Department +of State from Washington in the spring of 1905, so that United States +citizens can now claim its benefits. The treaty consists of five +articles. Under its terms the high contracting parties agree to submit +to arbitration, through the Hague Court, all claims for pecuniary loss +or damage which may be presented by their respective citizens and which +cannot be amicably adjusted through diplomatic channels and when such +claims are of sufficient importance to warrant the expenses of +arbitration. + +By virtue of Article 26 of the convention of The Hague the high +contracting parties agree to submit to the decision of the Permanent +Court of Arbitration established by that convention all controversies +which are the subject-matter of the Treaty unless both parties should +prefer that especial jurisdiction be organized according to Article 21. + +If for any cause the Permanent Court of The Hague should not be opened +to one or more of the high contracting parties they obligate themselves +to stipulate in a special treaty the rules under which the tribunal +shall be established as well as its forms of procedure. + +In 1902 the administration of President Estrada Cabrera negotiated and +the National Assembly ratified an agreement with Germany, Belgium, +France, England, and Italy, which disposed of many subjects that had +been in controversy. + +Spain, the United States and Mexico did not enter into the agreement +because those governments preferred to postpone the claims of their +citizens until the industrial crisis was over and the financial +conditions were improved. Since that time a number of claims have been +adjusted satisfactorily. President Estrada Cabrera stated in a recent +message that there were no claims at the present time which were +weighing upon the national treasury. These matters having been arranged +satisfactorily he said that no subject had arisen which could alter the +friendly relations with the countries of Europe. This friendship was +shown in the tribute paid by the Diplomatic Corps on New Year's day. +Subsequently the governments of Germany and France had shown especial +consideration by conferring on the President the Order of the Red Eagle +and of the Legion of Honor respectively. + +With Mexico the relations of Guatemala have been cordial since the +boundary dispute was settled in 1895. Recently the commercial relations, +on account of the construction of the Pan-American Railway through +Mexican territory to the Guatemalan border have required the +establishment of various consulates in important places in Mexico, and +the exequaturs have been granted by the Mexican government. + +[Illustration: PLAZA OF JOCOTENANGO, GUATEMALA CITY.] + + +CONCORD IN CENTRAL AMERICA. + +With respect to the neighboring republics of Central America the +attitude of Guatemala has been open and pronounced. It desires to +destroy every cause of discord among the Republics and to maintain a +perfect equilibrium. Guatemala took part in the conference which was +held at Corinto, Nicaragua, in August, 1904, and at which Salvador, +Honduras and Nicaragua also were represented. Through its delegate +President Estrada Cabrera's government subscribed to the following +declarations: + + + 1. To maintain peace is the principal objective of our government, + not only because it is a necessity for the various peoples, but + also because it imposes itself as a duty which all Spanish American + nationalities should fulfil. For this reason we firmly believe in + the proposition to overcome in Central America every obstacle that + may stand in the way of peace and we will put forth our strongest + efforts to frustrate the schemes of those who seek to sow distrust + and jealousy among us impelled as they are by the spirit of + ambition or disorder. + + 2. The strict compliance with the international compacts which bind + us shall be the test to which we submit our acts so that every + effort to the contrary will be vain and barren since it is + necessary to recognize that the generality of the labors of the + enemies of each administration tend to no laudable ends but rather + are the work of selfish egotists, of personal enmities or the + aberration of unbalanced judgment. + + 3. We do not hesitate then in declaring that whatever scheme of + discord, subversive attempt, or suggestion which proposes to break + our loyal friendship shall receive no support among us because the + sincerity and firmness of our relations as representatives of the + peoples whom we serve are and always will be affirmed in this + solemn agreement, which we make at the instance of Central America; + an agreement which is the fruit of the efforts we have made as + public men on different occasions. + + 4. We expect that all good citizens will give us in the sense + indicated their patriotic co-operation inspired in ideals of peace + and fraternity and contributing by supporting us in this accord to + place an end to the discord which the enemies of the public + tranquillity cause. And also upholding the liberal and progressive + policy which governs our acts. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE LAND OF TRAVEL AND HISTORY. + + +Guatemala is a fascinating country for the traveler and visitor. +Antiquarians, deep delvers in the majestic monuments of the long +forgotten past, seek in the myths, the traditions, the temples and the +ruins the riddles of prehistoric civilization. Modern tourists traveling +as they will be able to do within a short time by railway from New York +or San Francisco to the very heart of Guatemala may lose themselves in +admiration of the sublime scenery, the lovely landscapes of valley and +mountain lake and forest (the Indian name for Guatemala means abounding +in trees), volcanic caps, giant outlines, and cloud-clad craters. +Everywhere they will encounter that diversity which is the chief +attraction of natural scenery. They will find also superimposed on the +prehistoric Indian civilization the charm of Spanish architecture, +customs, character and institutions. + +Men of the stamp of President Estrada Cabrera who are engaged in the +material upbuilding and the political progress of the country may prefer +to talk of its agriculture and commerce, its opportunities for the +energetic and resourceful people of the northern regions rather than to +discuss its picturesque ruins audits fascinating history. Yet they would +not have these subjects neglected. Hence the traveler and the tourist +always are welcome, and whether they be deeply learned scientific +investigators or mere birds of passage seeking novelty every provision +is made to aid them in their travels. + + +NATURE'S BOLD HAND. + +In the very accurate and complete physiographic description of Guatemala +contained in the report of the Intercontinental Railway Survey the +following description is given of the great chain of volcanic cones and +peaks which add so greatly to the bold picturesqueness of the country. + + + "The Pacific coast extends generally from the northwest to the + southeast. From the sea the ground rises with a very gentle slope + inland for almost 25 or 30 miles when the country becomes broken by + the lava foothills of the volcanoes which extend from one end of + the country to the other and which stand like a giant wall between + the coast and the interior. Beginning at the Mexican boundary the + line of volcanoes extends nearly parallel to the coast. Back of + this is a plateau limited on the other side by the Continental + Divide and much broken by spurs which unite the volcanoes with the + Divide and the deep valleys between the spurs. The plateau is + drained by rivers which run to the sea through the deep canyons + between the volcanoes. The Continental Divide begins with the + volcano Tacana and making a semicircular bend to the north and east + rises again in the volcano Tajumulco. From this point its general + direction is easterly as far as the Cerro Tecpam. Tacana and + Tajumulco are the highest points on this are being respectively + 13,334 and 13,814 feet above sea level. From Tajumulco to near + Totonicapam the general altitude of the Divide is about 9,000 feet, + the most prominent peaks being the Cerro Cerchil 11,830 feet, and + the Cerro Calel 10,813 feet. From Totonicapam to Cerro Tecpam the + general elevation of the Divide is about 10,500 feet with one peak, + the Cerro Quiche of 11,160 feet. From Cerro Tecpam 10,050 feet, the + Divide turns to the southeast and drops to a general elevation of + about 7,000 feet, crossing the plateau and rising again in the + Cerro Santa Maria Cauque. Following the hills of Mexico, it crosses + the plain near Guatemala City, the suburb of Guarda Viejo, 5,060 + feet, being on the Divide." + + +The heights of other principal volcanoes are given opposite: + + + Acatenango 13,012 + Fuego 12,821 + Agua 12,300 + Atitlan 11,849 + Santa Maria 10,535 + Quezaltenango 9,358 + Pacaya 7,675 + Ipala 6,801 + Chingo 6,019 + + +VARIETY IN GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE. + +In the geological structure of the country unusual variety of character +is shown. The quarternary formation, aluvium and diluvium, covers the +greater portion of the Pacific coast from the foot of the mountains to +the sea. The same formation is also observed in the neighborhood of +Guatemala City, the valley of the Passion River, Puerto Barrios and +various other localities on the Atlantic Slope. + +The tertiary formation and particularly limestone covers the entire +Department of Peten. Furthermore, limestones and dolomites of the upper +cretaceous age are noted from La Libertad toward the Usumacinta River +and toward British Honduras. In the localities of San Luis and Santa +Barbara there are tertiary limestones and sandstones of Eocene and +miocene ages. + +The limestones and dolomites of the upper cretaceous age are also found +in various localities mixed with tertiary limestone and sandstone as +well as conglomerates, dolomites, and limestones of the lower cretaceous +age. In other sections they are mixed with limestones and dolomites of +the upper carboniferous age mingled with slate, sandstone and pudding +stone. The latter formation is found in other sections with +precarboniferous limestone and also with crystalline limestone of the +azoic age. + +The tertiary formation is followed by an azoic formation of gneiss, mica +slate, and phylada with large intrusions of granite. A kind of +horn-blend slate has been observed in some parts of Izabal. + +[Illustration: LANDSCAPE OF GUASTOTOYA RIVER.] + +The eruptive formations are composed of porphyry in the north and +northwest; of diorite, obsidian, rhyolite, and dacite and of trachyte, +together with basalt, rhyolite, obsidian and granite in other sections. +The eruptive formations are further composed of basalt in Pacaya and +several other volcanoes; and mostly of ambesite in the rest of the +Cordilleras and the highlands. + +For the present-day traveler who is interested in earthquakes and their +effects and in the ruins of Spanish architecture, nothing more +entertaining can be found than a visit to La Antigua, which can be +reached from Guatemala City by a few hours' ride in carriage or on +horseback. Antigua stretches through the beautiful and fertile valley +which in the Indian language means dry lake because the tradition exists +that in prehistoric times there was a fine sheet of water covering the +land. The panorama which delights the eye from any elevated point of +Antigua is glorious. The three volcanoes of Acatenango, Agua (water) and +Fuego (fire) lose their majestic combs in the clouds. In every direction +spread fertile fields with an infinite number of coffee and sugar +plantations in every state of production. The borders of the city are +bathed by two charming rivers, the Pensativo and the Portal. In the +immediate neighborhood are hygienic baths of pure crystalline water. + + +PREHISTORIC RUINS AND FAMED LAKE ATITLAN. + +Many volumes have been written about the prehistoric ruins of Guatemala +and especially of Copan. One of the most recent and most sumptuously +illustrated is that by Anne Cary Maudslay and Alfred Percival Maudslay +entitled "A Glimpse at Guatemala." It was published in London. In this +book Professor Maudslay gives the following description of a visit to +the ruins at Quirigua: + + + "The ruins, which are completely hidden in a thick tropical forest, + stand about three-quarters of a mile from the left bank of the + river Motagua and about five miles from the miserable little + village of Quirigua, from which they take their name. They consist + of numerous square or oblong mounds and terraces varying from six + to forty feet in height, some standing by themselves, others + clustered in irregular groups. Most of these mounds were faced with + worked stone and were ascended by flights of stone steps. + + "The interest centers in the thirteen large carved monoliths which + are arranged irregularly round what were probably the most + important plazas. Six of these monuments are tall stones measuring + three to five feet square and standing fourteen to twenty feet out + of the ground. The other five are oblong or rounded blocks of stone + shaped so as to represent huge turtles or armadilloes or some such + animals. All these monuments are covered with elaborate carving. + Usually on both back and front of the tall monoliths there is + carved a huge human figure standing full face and in a stiff and + conventional attitude. The sides of the monuments are covered with + tables of hieroglyphs, most of them in fairly good preservation. In + addition to these tables of hieroglyphs there are series of square + or cartouches of what appears to be actual picture writing, each + division measuring about eighteen inches square and containing + usually two or three grotesque figures of men and animals. The + design of these picture writings shows considerable variety and + freedom of treatment as compared with that of the large sizes human + figures in the execution of which the artist seems to have been + bound by conventional rules. + + "The largest of the stone animals is perhaps the most remarkable of + all the monuments. Its measurement is roughly a cube of eight feet, + it must weigh nearly twenty tons and it rests on three large slabs + of stone. It is shaped like a turtle and is covered with a most + elaborate and curious ornament and with tables of hieroglyphics and + cartouches of picture writing. The greater part of the ornament + throughout these carvings is formed from the grotesque + representations of the human face or the faces of animals, the + features frequently so greatly exaggerated that it is most + difficult to recognize them, but a careful examination enables one + almost invariably to trace back to this facial origin what at + first sight appears to be merely conventional scroll work. Forms + derived from leaves or flowers are altogether absent; occasional + use is made of a plaited ribbon and a very free use of plumes of + feathers which are oftenmost gracefully arranged and beautifully + carved. The fifteen monuments are divided into two groups; in one + the figures are all those of men, in the other of women." + + +The same authors give the following vivid description of the famed Lake +Atitlan: + + + "Our tent was pitched so close to the precipice that even from my + bed I had a grand view into the Lake and could watch the black + masses of the volcanoes looming clear-cut and solemn in the + moonlight or changing from black to gray in the early dawn; then a + rosy flush would touch the peak of Atitlan and the light creep down + its side, revealing for a brief half hour every detail of cinder + ridge and chasm on its scarred and wounded slopes until with a + sudden burst of glory the sun rose above the eastern hills to + strike the mirror-like surface of the Lake and flood the world with + warmth and dazzling light. Every peak and mountain ridge now stood + out clear and sharp against the morning sky, and only in the shadow + of the hills would a fleecy mist hang over the surface of the lake + far beneath us; then almost before the sun had power to drink up + these lees of the night from the deep gap between the hills to the + south, a linger of white cloud, borne up from the seaward slope, + would creep around the peak of Atitlan only to be dissipated in the + cooler air; but finger followed finger and the mysterious hand + never lost its grasp until about noon great billowy clouds rolled + up through the gap and the outpost was fairly captured although the + crater itself often stood out clear above the cloudy belt. It was + not, however, until the sun began to lose its power that the real + attack commenced and the second column deployed through the gap on + the southern flank of San Pedro and then from five o'clock until + dark there followed a scene which no pen and no brush could + adequately portray. The clouds seemed to be bewitched; they came + down on us in alternate black and sunlit masses, terrible in their + majesty; then rolled aside to show us all the beauty of a sunset + sky, tints of violet that shaded into pink, and pink that melted + into the clearest blue, whilst far away beyond the mountain seaward + rolled vast billowy masses, first red and yellow and then pink + fading to the softest green. Again and again would the clouds roll + down upon us, the mist at times so thick that we could not see + beyond a hundred yards; then just as quickly it would roll away and + reveal a completely new phase of this ever shifting scene of + beauty. As the sun sank behind San Pedro all turned again to dark + and angry purple with contrasts and reflections like the sheen of a + shot silk. Slowly the mists melted away with the fading daylight, + Venus hung for a while like a splendid jewel in the air and the + mountains turned again to shadowy masses outlined against a crystal + sky." + + +FASCINATING HISTORY THROUGH THE CENTURIES. + +Historically every period of Guatemala is fascinating. Usually the +history of the country is divided into the epochs of the aborigines, the +Spanish Conquest, Independence, and the era of liberal governments. + +Across the centuries the path of history can be traced. A book written +in the 16th century by one of the aborigines of the time of the Conquest +and called "Popol-Vuh" or "Book of the People," speaks of the Quiches, +vigorous and hardy natives of the soil, forerunners of the Guatemalan +people as having reached at that time a degree of advance which singled +them out from among the other primitive inhabitants of America. Their +religious system was in essence a kind of animal worship whose gods were +personified by the fox, the coyote, and the wild boar to be soon +reemployed through natural evolution by the forces of nature such as the +heavens, the earth, and the sea. They left as evidences of their worship +the multitude of monuments whose imposing ruins are preserved today. +Pyramids which seem to bear traces of Egypt and characters indicative +of a remote Asiatic origin; temples, such as the Temple of the Sun, of +grand architecture; and the Palace, dwelling of the King, a holy being +and the Supreme Arbiter. The latter is among the most notable of +American antiquities and it causes admiration through the graduated +pyramid, the triangular vault and the arch forming an harmonious whole. +The Quiche civilization was an advanced one and its government was a +theocracy in which the High Priest was both the Supreme Governor and +inherited the name of the primitive god Votan. This theocracy was drawn +from among the warriors while the people in complete servitude tilled +the fields in order to sustain the worship and raise grand monuments and +built numerous cities on the borders of the lakes and rivers. + +Agriculture was well advanced. Cacao was cultivated with grand +ceremonies and maize or Indian corn which was guarded with profound +veneration because according to the ancient tradition man was formed +from it. Cotton was also grown and brilliant garments woven from it +which were dyed with cochineal and pigments formed from various plants. +Tobacco was cultivated and yucca, beans, potatoes, etc. Various textiles +were fabricated of the finest quality and many of the palaces and +temples were hung with this tapestry. + +Ceramics and various kinds of pottery were manufactured both for use and +for ornament. The sciences and the arts were developed. The fame of the +Quiche calendar exists today. The aborigines also understood painting, +sculpture, and music. They made plumes and cloaks from the feathers of +the birds and they wrote upon a paper prepared from the Amatl. Their +language was liquid and possessed few inflections. It was the most +perfect of the six hundred or more languages which the Spaniards +encountered in the Isthmus of Central America. They had a literature of +their own and from this fragments have been preserved notably the drama +"Rabinal Achi." + + +SPANISH CONQUEST AND WHAT CAME AFTER. + +Guatemala was conquered by the Lieutenant of Cortez, Pedro de Alvarado. +In April, 1524, he crowned his series of victories over the Quiches by +routing them on the plains of Urbina, capturing and condemning to perish +by hanging the two last Kings of the most powerful monarchy of Central +America; Oxib-Queh and Beleheb-Tzy. In July of the same year he founded +the city of Guatemala, although this was not definitely established +until November, 1527. + +Within a few years all the regions of Central America had submitted to +the Spanish Crown and formed the Kingdom of Guatemala, to the capital of +which was transferred in 1549 the Royal Audiencia or High Court. +Guatemala was the head of Spanish power in Central America under the +general term of the Spanish Captain Generalcy for two centuries. + +During the two hundred and fifty years following the Conquest the +country had three capitals in turn, all named Guatemala City. The first, +founded by Alvarado, was on the very spot where he fought the battle +which made him conqueror. The Indian kings of the South having heard of +the exploits of Cortez in Mexico, sent an embassy to him which he +received with distinction. He sent his favorite Lieutenant Alvarado back +to take possession. Alvarado and his three hundred Spanish soldiers were +nearly a year in making the journey through the forest. When the Indians +opposed him he gave continuous battle and finally conquered. He +destroyed their capital, razed the temple of their idols to the ground, +and built on its site a church. + +For seventeen years Alvarado kept the Indians at work building a new +capital on the site of their old one. Then came the earthquake which +destroyed the place and buried nine-tenths of the inhabitants under the +ruins. A new location was found, but again, in 1773, by the eruption of +Santa Maria the capital was destroyed. This is the group of picturesque +ruins now known as La Antigua. With the destruction of this capital a +third and final movement to the splendid situation in the Hermit Valley +was made and the new capital which is the Guatemala City of today was +established. + +After years of struggle against the Spanish domination, beginning in +1811, Guatemala secured its independence, which was proclaimed September +15, 1821, when in place of the Kingdom of Guatemala there was +established "A nation free and independent of every other nation." The +history of subsequent years is interwoven with the events of other +Central American countries. After many evolutions and disorders as well +as revolutionary changes of government, the era known as the period of +reform and the re-establishment of the liberties of the country began in +1871. + + +CHAPTERS OF RECENT HISTORY. + +The events which led to the adoption of the liberal Constitution of +1879, which is today in force, do not need to be recounted here. General +Justo Rufino Barrios, who had been the leading spirit in the Liberal +revolution, was a pronounced advocate of the union of all the Central +American States in a single federal republic. He endeavored to +accomplish this against the opposition of Salvador and was killed at the +battle of Chalchuapa in 1885. He was succeeded by General Manuel +Lisandro Barillas, who exercised the government from 1887 to 1892. After +him came General Jose Maria Reyna Barrios, who during the first four +years of his administration gave a good government and worked much for +the prosperity of his country. In the last two years, however, through +the bad counsels of selfish advisers foreign to his government he sought +to extend the term of his authority and was resisted by successive +revolutions. He was assassinated by a personal enemy of European +nationality in February, 1898, and Guatemala was then left in the midst +of a most disastrous condition, both industrial and political. + +It was at this period that Manuel Estrada Cabrera, the lawyer, came into +power and began the series of administrative reforms and measures for +the material development of the country which have so vastly improved +the condition of the people, have re-established credit and given +assurance of further progress under continuous peace and tranquillity. +It is these beneficial measures which have caused President Estrada +Cabrera to be signalized as the chief of the modern emancipation of +Guatemala in its policies, in its intellectual and moral advancement, +and as the author of its present progress. Under his government order in +administration has been secured, respect for the rights of all, material +development in countless forms, the general improvement of the people +and the most perfect harmony and equity in international relations have +been obtained. It is the success of these policies, which is now +assured, that makes Guatemala so clearly the country of the future and +entitles Estrada Cabrera to rank with the most distinguished heads of +State of the present day. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Guatemala, the country of the future, by +Charles M. 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