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diff --git a/38190-h/38190-h.htm b/38190-h/38190-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..695d045 --- /dev/null +++ b/38190-h/38190-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5398 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<!-- $Id: header.txt 236 2009-12-07 18:57:00Z vlsimpson $ --> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cornwall, by S. Baring-Gould. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + font-size: 10pt; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + + +.caption { + text-align: center; + font-weight: bold; + margin-bottom: .75em +} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + + +/* Footnotes */ + +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cornwall, by Sabine Baring-Gould + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Cornwall + +Author: Sabine Baring-Gould + +Release Date: December 3, 2011 [EBook #38190] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CORNWALL *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Eric Skeet and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<p class="center"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Cover" /></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/map1a.jpg" alt="Physical map - west" /><a name="map1a" title=""></a></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/map1b.jpg" alt="Physical map - east" /><a name="map1b" title=""></a></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[Pg i]</span></p> + + + + +<h2>CAMBRIDGE COUNTY GEOGRAPHIES</h2> +<p class="center">General Editor: <span class="smcap">F.H.H. Guillemard, M.A., M.D.</span></p> + + + + +<h1>CORNWALL</h1> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[ii]</span></p> + +<p class="center">CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS<br /> +London: FETTER LANE, E.C.<br /> +C.F. CLAY, <span class="smcap">Manager</span><br /> + +<img src="images/shield.png" alt="Coat of Arms" /></p> + +<p class="center"> +Edinburgh: 100, PRINCES STREET<br /> +<br /> +Berlin: A. ASHER AND CO.<br /> +<br /> +Leipzig: F.A. BROCKHAUS<br /> +<br /> +New York: G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS<br /> +<br /> +Bombay and Calcutt: MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd.</p> + +<p class="center"><i>[All rights reserved]</i></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[iii]</span></p> + +<h2><i>Cambridge County Geographies</i></h2> + +<h1>CORNWALL</h1> + +<h3>by</h3> + +<h2>S. BARING-GOULD</h2> +<p> </p> +<h4>With Maps, Diagrams, and Illustrations</h4> + +<h2>Cambridge:</h2> +<h3>at the University Press<br /> +1910</h3> + +<hr style="width: 65%" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[iv]</span></p> + + +<p class="center"> +Cambridge:<br /> +PRINTED BY JOHN CLAY, M.A.<br /> +AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[v]</span></p> + + + + +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + + +<table summary="Contents"> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm"> </td> +<td style="text-align: left"> </td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">1.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap1">County and Shire. Meaning of the Word</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">2.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap2">General Characteristics</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">3</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">3.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap3">Size, Shape, Boundaries</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">4.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap4">Surface and General Features</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">5.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap5">Watershed, Rivers</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">13</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">6.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap6">Geology and Soil</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">19</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">7.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap7">Natural History</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">26</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">8.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap8">Around the Coast. From Morwenstow to Land's End</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">31</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">9.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap9">Around the Coast. From Land's End to Rame Head</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">41</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">10.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap10">The Coast—Gains and Losses</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">51</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">11.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap11">The Coast—Tides, Islands, and Lighthouses</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">57</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">12.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap12">Climate—Rainfall</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">61</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">13.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap13">People—Race, Dialect, Population</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">67</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">14.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap14">Agriculture—Main Cultivations. Stock</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">72</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">15.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap15">Industries and Manufactures</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">79</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">16.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap16">Minerals and Mining</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">80</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">17.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap17">Fisheries</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">88</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">18.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap18">Shipping and Trade</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">94</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">19.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap19">History</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">97</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">20.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap20">Antiquities: Prehistoric, Roman, Celtic, Saxon</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">106</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">21.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap21">Architecture: (a) Ecclesiastical</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">114</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">22.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap22">Architecture: (b) Military—Castles</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">125</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">23.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap23">Architecture: (c) Domestic and Monastic</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">128</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">24.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap24">Communications—Roads, Railways</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">132</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">25.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap25">Administration and Divisions, Ancient and Modern</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">135</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">26.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap26">Roll of Honour</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">140</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">27.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap27">The Chief Towns and Villages of Cornwall</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">148</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: right; margin-left: 3cm; padding-right: 1cm">28.</td> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#chap28">Diagrams</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">160</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum">[vii]</span></p> + + + + +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<table summary="Illustrations"> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"> </td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus1">Luxulyan Village</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">4</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus2">Dozmare Pool</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus3">The Tamar, near Calstock</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">7</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus4">Grimsby Channel and Eastern Islands, Scilly</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus5">Bodmin</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus6">Rough Tor</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus7">St Keyne's Well, Liskeard</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">13</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus8">On the Camel</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">14</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus9">Wadebridge</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus10">Royal Albert Bridge, Saltash</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">17</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus11">The Cheesewring</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus12">In a Cornish Garden</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">28</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus13">Bude Breakwater</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">32</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus14">King Arthur's Castle, Tintagel</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">33</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus15">Bodruthan Steps</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">34</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus16">Newquay Harbour</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">37</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus17">The Wharf, St Ives</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">39</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus18">Land's End</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">41</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus19">Newlyn Pier</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">42</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus20">St Michael's Mount</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">43</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus21">Kynance Cove and the Lizard</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">44</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus22">Mullion Cove</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">46</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus23">Falmouth, from Flushing</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">48</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus24">Polperro</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">49</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus25">Looe</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">49</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus26">Perranporth Rocks</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">54</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus27">Round Island, Scilly</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">58</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus28">The Longships Lighthouse</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">59</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus29">Eddystone Lighthouse</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus30">Miners: Camborne</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">69</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus31">"First and Last House", Land's End</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">72</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus32">Flower Farming, Scilly</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">77</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus33">Poldhu Hotel and the Marconi Station</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">79</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus34">King Edward Mine, Camborne</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">81</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus35">China Clay Quarries, Porthpean</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">84</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus36">Delabole Slate Quarries</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">86</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus37">Shipping Slate, Port Gavin</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">87</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus38">Pilchard Boats, Mevagissey</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">89</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus39">The Huers' House, Newquay</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">91</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus40">Pilchard Boats, St Ives Harbour</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">92</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus41">Landing Fish, Newlyn</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">94</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus42">The St Vincent's Anchor, Falmouth</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">95</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus43">The Nine Maidens, St Columb Major</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">99</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus44">St Mawes, Falmouth Harbour</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">105</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus45">Lanyon Cromlech</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">108</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus46">The Merry Maidens, St Buryan</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">109</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus47">St Cleer: Monument to Doniert, son of<br/> Caradoc, died <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 872.</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">111</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus48">Mawgan Cross</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">112</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus49">St Buryan Cross</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">114</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus50">Buried Church, Perranporth</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">117</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus51">Norman Doorway, St Germans Church</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">117</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus52">Tympanum, Egloskerry Church</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">119</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus53">Lanteglos Church</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">119</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus54">Launceston Church</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">121</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus55">Landewednack Church</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">123</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus56">Dupath Well, Callington</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">124</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus57">St Mawes Castle</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">127</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus58">Cothele</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">130</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus59">The Old Post Office, Tintagel</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">132</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus60">A Cornish Stile</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">133</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus61">The Old Guildhall and Pillory, Looe</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">138</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus62">Captain Bligh</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">141</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus63">Sir Humphry Davy</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">144</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus64">John Opie</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">146</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus65">Fowey</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">150</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus66">Helston from Bullock Lane</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">151</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus67">Launceston</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">152</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus68">Looe</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">153</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus69">Cross in Churchyard, St Columb</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">156</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#illus70">Truro</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">159</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + + +<h2>MAPS</h2> + + +<table summary="Maps"> + +<tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#map1a">Cornwall, Topographical (West)</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm"><i>Front Endpaper</i></td> +</tr><tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#map1b">Cornwall, Topographical (East)</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm"><i>Front Endpaper</i></td> +</tr><tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#map2a">Cornwall, Geological (West)</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm"><i>Back Endpaper</i></td> +</tr><tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#map2b">Cornwall, Geological (East)</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm"><i>Back Endpaper</i></td> +</tr><tr> +<td style="text-align: left"><a href="#map3">England and Wales, showing Annual Rainfall</a></td> +<td style="text-align: right; padding-left: 1cm">63</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The illustrations on pp. 3, 4, 9, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 24, 32, 36, +37, 39, 41, 42, 47, 48, 49, 50, 54, 59, 60, 70, 73, 79, 81, 84, 86, +89, 91, 93, 95, 99, 105, 112, 113, 114, 117, 118, 120, 121, 123, +127, 138, 150, 151, 152, 153, 156, 158 are from photographs +supplied by Messrs F. Frith & Co.; those on pp. 8, 43, 45, 58, 77, +94, 108, 109, 134 by Messrs Preston, Penzance; those on pp. 141, +146 by Mr Emery Walker, and those on pp. 6, 29, 34, 87, 119, +124, 130, 132 by Messrs Hayman & Son, Launceston.</p> + +<hr style="width: 75%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[1]</span></p> + + + + +<h2><a name="chap1" id="chap1"></a>1. County and Shire. Meaning of the word.</h2> + +<p>If we take a map of England and contrast it with a +map of the United States, perhaps one of the first things +we shall notice is the dissimilarity of the arbitrary divisions +of land of which the countries are composed. In America +the rigidly straight boundaries and rectangular shape of +the majority of the States strike the eye at once; in +England our wonder is rather how the boundaries have +come to be so tortuous and complicated—to such a degree, +indeed, that until recently many counties had outlying +islands, as it were, within their neighbours' territory. We +may guess at once that the conditions under which the +divisions arose cannot have been the same, and that while +in America these formal square blocks of land, like vast +allotment gardens, were probably the creation of a central +authority, and portioned off much about the same time; +the divisions we find in England own no such simple +origin. Our guess would not have been wrong, for such, +in fact, is more or less the case. The formation of the +English counties in many instances was (and is—for they +have altered up to to-day) an affair of slow growth. +<span class="pagenum">[2]</span> +King Alfred is credited with having made them, but +inaccurately, for some existed before his time, others not +till long after his death, and their origin was—as their +names tell us—of very diverse nature.</p> + +<p>Let us turn once more to our map of England. Collectively, +we call all our divisions counties, but not every +one of them is accurately thus described. Cornwall, +as we shall see, is not. Some have names complete in +themselves, such as Kent and Sussex, and we find these +to be old English kingdoms with but little alteration +either in their boundaries or their names. To others +the terminal <i>shire</i> is appended, which tells us that they +were <i>shorn</i> from a larger domain—<i>shares</i> of Mercia or +Northumbria or some other of the great English kingdoms. +The term county is of Norman introduction,—the +domain of a <i>Comte</i> or Count.</p> + +<p>Although we use the term county for Cornwall, we +should not in accuracy do so, as just stated, for it is a +Duchy, and has been such since March 17, 1337, when +Edward of Woodstock, eldest son of King Edward III, +was created Duke of Cornwall. Nor can it be called a +shire, for Cornwall was a territory to itself. In 835 +Athelstan drove the Britons across the Tamar and made +that river the boundary between the Briton and the West +Saxon of Devon.</p> + +<p>The ancient name of Cornwall and Devon was Totnes, +i.e. <i>Dod-ynys</i>, "the projecting island," and the Celtic +population was that of the Dumnonii. It was not till +the tenth century that the name Cornweales appears, +signifying the Welsh of the Horn of Britain. The +<span class="pagenum">[3]</span> +Latin form of Cornwall is Cornubia. The ancient British +settlers in the present department of Finistère called that +portion of Gaul Cornouaille.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap2" id="chap2"></a>2. General Characteristics.</h2> + +<p>On many accounts Cornwall may be regarded as one +of the most interesting counties of England, whether we +regard it for its coast scenery, its products, or its antiquities. +It has lain so much out of the main current of +the life of England that it was hardly mixed up with the +politics of the nation till the time of the Civil War.</p> + +<p>Its situation, projecting as it does into the sea, by +which it is washed on all sides but one, has naturally +<span class="pagenum">[4]</span> +caused the natives to take to the water, and has made +Cornwall to be the mother of a hardy breed of fishermen +and sailors. But the county being also rich in mineral +wealth has from an early age caused a large portion of the +manhood of the land to seek their livelihood in mines; +and the peculiar conditions of Cornwall have thus determined +the professions of a large proportion of its males to +be either on the water or under ground.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus1.jpg" alt="Luxulyan Village" /><a name="illus1" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Luxulyan Village</p> + +<p>The interior of the county cannot be regarded as +beautiful, consisting of a backbone of elevated land, wind-swept, +and over a large area covered with mine-ramps and +the skeletons of abandoned machine-houses standing up +gaunt amidst the desolation. But the valleys are always +beautiful, and the Bodmin moors, if not so lofty and broken +<span class="pagenum">[5]</span> +as Dartmoor, are yet fine, and Brown Willy, Rough Tor, +and Kilmar are really noble tors.</p> + +<p>On the Bodmin moors is Dozmare Pool, the only +lake, excepting Loe Pool, that exists in Cornwall. It is +small and shallow. There were others formerly, now +encroached on or smothered by morass.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus2.jpg" alt="Dozmare Pool" /><a name="illus2" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Dozmare Pool</p> + +<p>In Cornwall it is quite possible to take a stride from +the richest vegetation into the abomination of desolation. +It has been said in mockery that Cornwall does not grow +wood enough to make coffins for the people. The old +timber was cut down to supply the furnaces for smelting +tin, and it is true that there is not in Cornwall as magnificent +timber as may be seen in other counties, but the valleys are +everywhere well wooded, and the Cornish elm, that grows +almost like a trimmed poplar, stands up lank above the +lower trees and coppice.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap3" id="chap3"></a>3. Size, Shape, Boundaries.</h2> + + +<p>Cornwall bears a certain resemblance to Italy, each is +like a leg or boot, but Italy stands a-tiptoe to the south, +whereas Cornwall is thrust out to the west. But, whereas +Italy is kicking Sicily as a football, Cornwall has but the +shattered group of the Scilly Isles at its toe.</p> + +<p>It touches but one other county, Devonshire, on the +east; on all other sides it is washed by the sea, the Atlantic +on the north and the English Channel on the south. +The heel is the curious projection of the Lizard, and the +toe is Land's End. On the east the river Tamar forms +mainly the boundary between itself and Devon, except just +<span class="pagenum">[6]</span> +north of Launceston, where a small portion of Devonshire +juts into Cornwall, bounded on the south by the river +Attery, and comprising the parishes of North Petherwin +and Werrington. This is due to the land in these parishes +having belonged to the Abbey of Tavistock, and the monks +desiring to have all their lands comprised in one county. +The area of Cornwall is 886,384 acres, or 1385 square +miles.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[7]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus3.jpg" alt="The Tamar, near Calstock" /><a name="illus3" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The Tamar, near Calstock</p> + +<p>It is the most westerly county in England, and also +the most southerly. Its greatest length from the N.E. +corner beyond Morwenstow to the Land's End is +80 miles; and its greatest breadth between Marsland +Mouth and Rame Head is 46 miles. But it shrinks +towards the toe, and between St Ives' Bay and Mounts +Bay it is not five miles across.</p> + +<p>The Scilly Isles, situated twenty-five miles S.W. from +the Land's End, are a part of Cornwall, and have an +area of 4041 acres. Formerly, a part of the township of +Bridgerule, with 1010 acres on the Devon side of the +Tamar, belonged to Cornwall, but has now been dissevered +and annexed to Devonshire.</p> + +<p>The north coast is sadly deficient in harbours. Bude +Haven can accommodate only the smallest vessels, Boscastle +is a dangerous creek, Padstow Harbour is barred by +the Doom Bank lying across the entrance, and there is +none other till we reach St Ives' Bay. On the south coast +are Mounts Bay, Falmouth, Charlestown in St Austell +Bay, Par, Fowey, Looe, Cawsand Bay, and the Hamoaze +that opens into Plymouth Sound. Of these only Falmouth +Harbour, once the great station for the packet boats, is good. +<span class="pagenum">[8]</span></p> + +<p>The Scilly Isles comprise 145 rocky masses, six only +are large islands, and five only are inhabited. The other +inhabited islands about Cornwall are very small, these are +St Michael's Mount and Looe Island. The promontory +of Lleyn in Cardiganshire presents a curious resemblance +to Cornwall, and as Cornwall has its detached group of +islands in Scilly, so Lleyn has its Bardsey.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus4.jpg" alt="Grimsby Channel and Eastern Islands, Scilly" /><a name="illus4" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Grimsby Channel and Eastern Islands, Scilly</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + + +<h2><a name="chap4" id="chap4"></a>4. Surface and General Features.</h2> + + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus5.jpg" alt="Bodmin" /><a name="illus5" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Bodmin</p> + +<p>To the east and north-east is the large granite mass +of the Bodmin moors. It is these striking granitic +masses, here and further west—at the Land's End, at St +Breage, in the district north of Helston, and again north +<span class="pagenum">[9]</span> +of St Austell—which form the bolder features of the +county. A remarkable depression lies between Marazion +and St Ives' Bay, utilised by the railway from Hayle +to Marazion road. It almost seems as if the whole of +Penwith, the portion west of this trough, had at one +time been an island, with a channel of sea between +it and the mainland. On the other hand, at a remote +period there can be no doubt that there extended far out +broad low-lying lands which are now covered by the sea, +for forest beds have been found in Mounts Bay, in Padstow +Bay, at St Columb Major, and elsewhere, showing that +there has been a subsidence of the land. This has given +rise to the fable of a drowned realm of Lyonesse, but this +Lyonesse never existed in or near Cornwall; it was Léon +<span class="pagenum">[10]</span> +in Brittany. But if there has been subsidence, there has +also been an elevation of the land, as is shown by the +raised beaches that can be traced along the coast. In the +south are found flint pebbles in these raised beaches, showing +that the wash at one period was not as now from +west to east, but the reverse. It was from these flint +pebbles in the elevated beaches that prehistoric man in +Cornwall obtained the material for the fabrication of his +tools and weapons. The elevation of the land, which +dried up the channel between the Land's End and the +mainland, preceded the depression which sunk the now +submerged forests.</p> + +<p>To the north of the great granite boss that forms +the Bodmin moors a ridge of cold moors rises, setting its +back against the Atlantic and feeding the rivers that flow +south with the rain that pours over it. Very little can be +grown on these heights: they produce a little barley, but +are mainly covered with rushes, coarse grass, and furze +bushes. No considerable heights are reached till we come +to Carnmarth and Carn Brea, each only 700 ft. above the +sea. Then there is no distinct height till we reach Godolphin +and Tregonning hills of 560 ft. and 600 ft. Towards +Land's End there are greater heights—700 ft. and a little +over, but this is naught compared with Brown Willy, +1368, and Kilmar, 1297, in the east. But it must be +understood that grand mountain, or even fine hill scenery +is not to be met with in western Cornwall. Its glory is +in its magnificent coast-line; and its beauty is to be found +in its lovely valleys and coombes.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus6.jpg" alt="Rough Tor" /><a name="illus6" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Rough Tor</p> + +<p>The general features of a country depend on its +<span class="pagenum">[11]</span> +geological structure. Granite formation, slate rock, sandstone, +limestone, chalk—all have their special characters, +unmistakable. When we are among the granites in the +west of England we expect a tent-like shape of hill with +<span class="pagenum">[12]</span> +a tor of rock at the summit; the sides strewn with a +"clatter" of fallen rock, and clothed in heather and furze. +When we come to the slates, and the overlying cold clays, +we expect little except in the gorges and valleys cut through +the strata by the streams. Of sandstone, or of chalk, forming +breezy rolling downs, there is none in Cornwall, nor +of limestone with its bold scars, such as are met with in +<span class="pagenum">[13]</span> +the western hills of Yorkshire. We must take what we +can find—and much can be found in Cornwall if we do +not expect too much, nor look for what is not there, and +under existing geological conditions could not be there.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus7.jpg" alt="St Keyne's Well, Liskeard" /><a name="illus7" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">St Keyne's Well, Liskeard</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap5" id="chap5"></a>5. Watershed, Rivers.</h2> + + + +<p>From what has been already said, it will be seen that +the great spinal column of Cornwall is in the north and that +consequently the principal rivers must flow to the south. +It is true that the Camel and its tributaries rise in the +north and flow north to debouch into Padstow estuary, +but that is the only river of the smallest consequence that +directly feeds the Atlantic. +<span class="pagenum">[14]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus8.jpg" alt="On the Camel" /><a name="illus8" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">On the Camel</p> + +<p>The Camel rises in the wind-swept, sodden, clay land +above Boscastle, and dribbles down to Camelford, passing +under Slaughter Bridge and the stone of <span class="smcap">Lateinos</span> which +traditionally mark the scene of King Arthur's last fight +and death. After leaving Camelford, it plunges through +a beautiful wooded valley, under Helsbury Castle occupying +a bleak conical hill—a castle of the Dukes of Cornwall, +but consisting only of a stone camp of prehistoric date +and a ruined chapel in the midst dedicated to St Sith or +Itha, an Irish saint. It passes Lavethan, a hospitium of +the monks of Bodmin, and between wooded banks through +Pencarrow and Dunmeer woods, and having run south, it +now turns north to meet and mingle waters with the +Allan, which has cleft for itself a very similar and equally +beautiful valley. The Allan rises near the slate quarries of +Delabole, and glides down by St Teath, and by St Mabyn +on its bleak stormbeaten height, itself snug between beautiful +hanging woods and with sweet old-world manor houses +clustering near, and meets the Camel at Egloshayle. +Thence they flow away into the Padstow estuary under +the old 15th century bridge at Wadebridge, past the +Camelot of legend—the only streams of any consequence +that flow north.</p> + +<p>With regard to the Tamar, we may call it as we +please a Devonshire or a Cornish river. It divides the +counties through the principal part of its course, but it +has its source in Morwenstow, on a wretched moor, in +Cornwall. Not much can be said in its favour till it +reaches Bridgerule. From that point past North Tamerton +(and Vacey, which although on the left bank was included +<span class="pagenum">[15]</span> +in Cornwall, and has two formidable earthworks) it glides +down to Werrington, where it meets the waters of the +Attery and passes under Polson Bridge within sight of +Launceston. Thenceforth the Tamar is in the full +bloom of beauty. Carthamartha (Caer Tamar) stands at +its junction with the Inny. Below Polson Bridge it has +accepted the Lyd from Devon. Then through the lands +and woods of the Duke of Bedford at lovely Endsleigh, +under the bold crags of Morwell, up to which the tide +reaches, then past Calstock and Cothele, and in serpentine +writhes about Pentillie Castle, and so into the Hamoaze—the +most beautiful river in England, excepting possibly +the Wye.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus9.jpg" alt="Wadebridge" /><a name="illus9" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Wadebridge</p> + +<p>The Inny, one of the feeders of the Tamar and altogether +Cornish, must not be omitted, for it is a beautiful +<span class="pagenum">[16]</span> +stream. It rises in the elevated land by Davidstowe and +ripples down near Altarnon, passing in a picturesque +valley the Holy Well and chapel of St Clether and the +ancestral seat of the Trevelyan family at Basil; then, still in +its beautiful valley, past Polyphant, famous for its quarries +of a stone that admits of the most delicate carving, until it +reaches the Tamar at Innyfoot. It is a river rich in trout. +An old Cornish song of the Altarnon volunteer has the +verse:</p> + +<p> +O Altarnon! O Altarnon! I ne'er shall see thee more,<br /> +Nor hear the sweet bells ringing, nor stand in the church door,<br /> +Nor hear the birds a-whistling, nor in the Inny stream<br /> +See silver trout glance by me, as thoughts glance by in dream.<br /> +<span class="pagenum">[17]</span></p> + +<p>It is not however the Inny but a tributary that +actually passes Altarnon.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus10.jpg" alt="Royal Albert Bridge, Saltash" /><a name="illus10" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Royal Albert Bridge, Saltash</p> + +<p>The Lynher falls into the Hamoaze, running for +much of its course parallel to the Inny. It rises in the +Bodmin moors and flows through the beautiful grounds of +Trebartha where it receives a feeder from Trewartha marsh +that leaps to meet it in a pretty cascade. Trewartha marsh +has been turned over and over for tin and gold, and the +Squire of Trebartha formerly furnished his daughters +with gold rings made from the precious ore found in it. +A curious settlement of the Celtic period exists above +the marsh. It has however been much mutilated by +farmers, who have carried off the stones for the construction +of pigstyes. The Lynher flows through the park of +the Earl of St Germans, past the beautiful church with +its Norman west front, and then is lost in the united waters +of the Tamar and the Tavy.</p> + +<p>Under Brown Willy is a pool called Fowey Well, which +is traditionally held to be the source of the Fowey river. +This however is not the case. It rises under Buttern +Hill (1135 ft.) crowned by cairns, but as the Fowey Well +has no outlet visible, it is supposed to decant by a subterranean +stream into the river. Leaping down from the +moors, the Fowey enters a wooded valley and, turning +abruptly west, flows through another well timbered valley. +Running beside the railway, and then turning sharply +south, it passes the old Stannery town of Lostwithiel, to +which the tide reaches, and plunging into a narrow glen +with St Winnow on one side and Golant on the other, +finally reaches the sea at Fowey harbour. +<span class="pagenum">[18]</span></p> + +<p>There are two Looe rivers, one rising in the Bodmin +moors receives the overflow of Dozmare Pool, and flowing +deep below Liskeard receives the West Looe above the +estuary. Duloe, which has a small but interesting circle +of upright stones, stands between them and is supposed +to be so called as between the two Looes. Before reaching +Duloe the river has passed under St Keyne, famous +for its Holy Well commemorated by Southey in a well-known +ballad.</p> + +<p>There is no river of any importance till we reach the +Fal. Rising on Goss Moor, not far from St Columb, +and passing Grampound and Tregony, now an utterly +decayed place, it meets the Tressilian and the Truro rivers, +and all three, insignificant hitherto, suddenly acquire importance +and spread out into the beautiful estuary of the +Fal or Carrick Roads. Here are Penryn creek, Mylor +creek, and Porthcuel harbour, commanded by the castle +of St Mawes. None of these owe their importance to +the sweet waters they bring down; all their value is due +to the tide that flows up to Truro.</p> + +<p>The entrance to the Roads is found between Zoze +Point and Pendennis Point, the latter at one time defended +by a strong castle. Almost halfway between the points is +the dangerous Black Rock, to which a former Trefusis +conveyed his wife and there left her to be overwhelmed +by the rising tide. Happily she was rescued by some +fishermen. The Helford river is but a creek, noted for +its oyster beds, into which a little stream dribbles. +<span class="pagenum">[19]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap6" id="chap6"></a>6. Geology and Soil.</h2> + + +<p>By Geology we mean the study of the rocks, and we +must at the outset explain that the term <i>rock</i> is used by +the geologist without any reference to the hardness or +compactness of the material to which the name is applied; +thus he speaks of loose sand as a rock equally with a hard +substance like granite.</p> + +<p>Rocks are of two kinds, (1) those laid down mostly +under water, (2) those due to the action of fire.</p> + +<p>The first kind may be compared to sheets of paper +one over the other. These sheets are called <i>beds</i>, and such +beds are usually formed of sand (often containing pebbles), +mud or clay, and limestone, or mixtures of these materials. +They are laid down as flat or nearly flat sheets, but may +afterwards be tilted as the result of movement of the +earth's crust, just as you may tilt sheets of paper, folding +them into arches and troughs, by compressing their ends. +Again, we may find the tops of the folds so produced +wasted away as the result of the wearing action of +rivers, glaciers, and sea-waves upon them, as you might +cut off the tops of the folds of the paper with a pair of +shears. This has happened with the ancient beds forming +parts of the earth's crust, and we therefore often find them +tilted, with the upper parts removed.</p> + +<p>The other kinds of rocks are known as igneous rocks, +which have been melted under the action of heat and +become solid on cooling. When in the molten state +they have been poured out at the surface as the lava of +<span class="pagenum">[20]</span> +volcanoes, or have been forced into other rocks and cooled +in the cracks and other places of weakness. Much +material is also thrown out of volcanoes as volcanic ash +and dust, and is piled up on the sides of the volcano. +Such ashy material may be arranged in beds, so that it +partakes to some extent of the qualities of the two great +rock groups.</p> + +<p>The production of beds is of great importance to +geologists, for by means of these beds we can classify the +rocks according to age. If we take two sheets of paper, +and lay one on the top of the other on a table, the upper +one has been laid down after the other. Similarly with +two beds, the upper is also the newer, and the newer will +remain on the top after earth-movements, save in very +exceptional cases which need not be regarded by us here, +and for general purposes we may regard any bed or set of +beds resting on any other in our own country as being +the newer bed or set.</p> + +<p>The movements which affect beds may occur at +different times. One set of beds may be laid down flat, +then thrown into folds by movement, the tops of the +beds worn off, and another set of beds laid down upon the +worn surface of the older beds, the edges of which will +abut against the oldest of the new set of flatly deposited +beds, which latter may in turn undergo disturbance and +renewal of their upper portions.</p> + +<p>Again, after the formation of the beds many changes may occur in them. +They may become hardened, pebble-beds being changed into conglomerates, +sands into sandstones, muds and clays into mudstones and shales, +softdeposits of lime into limestone, and loose volcanic ashes into +exceedingly hard rocks. They may also become cracked, and the cracks are +often very regular, running in two directions at right angles one to the +other. Such cracks are known as <i>joints</i>, and the joints are very +important in affecting the physical geography of a district. Then, as +the result of great pressure applied sideways, the rocks may be so +changed that they can be split into thin slabs, which usually, though +not necessarily, split along planes standing at high angles to the +horizontal. Rocks affected in this way are known as <i>slates</i>.</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[21]</span></p> + +<table style="font-size: 75%; margin-left: 10%; line-height: 8pt" summary="Characters of Rocks"> +<tr> +<td style="width: 2cm">NAMES OF<br/>SYSTEMS</td> +<td style="width: 8cm">| SUBDIVISIONS</td> +<td>| CHARACTERS OF ROCKS</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td style="width: 2cm"><b>TERTIARY</b></td> +<td style="width: 6cm"></td> +<td></td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Metal Age Deposits</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Recent</td> +<td>| Neolithic Deposits</td> +<td>| Superficial Deposits</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Pleistocene</td> +<td>| Palaeolithic Deposits</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Glacial Deposits</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Cromer Series</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Weybourne Crag</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Pliocene</td> +<td>| Chillesford and Norwich Crags</td> +<td>| Sands chiefly</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Crags</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Red and Walton Crags</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Coralline Crag</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Miocene</td> +<td>| Absent from Britain</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Fluviomarine Beds of Hampshire</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Bagshot Beds</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Eocene</td> +<td>| London Clay</td> +<td>| Clays and Sands chiefly</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Oldhaven Beds, Woolwich and Reading Groups</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Thanet Sands</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td><b>SECONDARY</b></td> +<td></td> +<td></td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Chalk</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Upper Greensand and Gault</td> +<td>| Chalk at top,</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Cretaceous</td> +<td>| Lower Greensand</td> +<td>| Sandstones, Mud and</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Weald Clay</td> +<td>| Clays below</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Hastings Sands</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Purbeck Beds</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Portland Beds</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Kimmeridge Clay</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Corallian Beds</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Jurassic</td> +<td>| Oxford Clay and Kellaways Rock</td> +<td>| Shales, Sandstones and</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Cornbrash</td> +<td>| Oolitic Limestones</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Forest Marble</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Great Oolite with Stonesfield Slate</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Inferior Oolite</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Lias--Upper, Middle and Lower</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Rhaetic</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Keuper Marls</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Triassic</td> +<td>| Keuper Sandstone</td> +<td>| Red Sandstone and</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Upper Bunter Sandstone</td> +<td>| Marls, Gypsum and Salt</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Bunter Pebble Beds</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Lower Bunter Sandstone</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td><b>PRIMARY</b></td> +<td></td> +<td></td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Magnesian Limestone and Sandstone</td> +<td>| Red Sandstones and</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Permian</td> +<td>| Marl Slate</td> +<td>| Magnesian Limestone</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Lower Permian Sandstone</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Coal Measures</td> +<td>| Sandstones Shales and</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Millstone Grit</td> +<td>| Coals at top,</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Carboniferous</td> +<td>| Mountain Limestone</td> +<td>| Sandstones in middle,</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Basal Carboniferous Rocks</td> +<td>| Limestone and Shales below</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Upper | Devonian and</td> +<td>| Red Sandstones,</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Devonian</td> +<td>| Mid | Old Red</td> +<td>| Shales, Slates and,</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Lower | Sandstone</td> +<td>| Limestones,</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Ludlow Beds</td> +<td>| Sandstones, Shales and</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Silurian</td> +<td>| Wenlock Beds</td> +<td>| ThinLimestones,</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Llandovery Beds</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Caradoc Beds</td> +<td>| Shales, Slates,</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Ordovician</td> +<td>| Llandello Beds</td> +<td>| Sandstones and</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Arenig Beds</td> +<td>| Thin Limestones</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Tremadoc Slates</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td>Cambrian</td> +<td>| Lingula Flags</td> +<td>| Slates and</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Menevian Beds</td> +<td>| Sandstones</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>| Harlech Grits and Llanberis Slates</td> +<td>|</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr><tr> +<td> </td> +<td>| </td> +<td>| Sandstones,</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Pre-Cambrian</td> +<td>| No definite classfication yet made</td> +<td>| Slates and</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td> +<td>|</td> +<td>| Volcanic Rocks</td> +</tr><tr> +<td></td><td>---</td><td>---</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[22]</span></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p>If we could flatten out all the beds of England, and +arrange them one over the other and bore a shaft through +them, we should see them on the sides of the shaft, the +newest appearing at the top and the oldest at the bottom, +as shown in the table. Such a shaft would have a depth +of between 10,000 and 20,000 feet. The strata beds are +divided into three great groups called Primary or Palaeozoic, +Secondary or Mesozoic, and Tertiary or Cainozoic, and +the lowest Primary rocks are the oldest rocks of Britain, +which form as it were the foundation stones on which +the other rocks rest. These may be spoken of as the +Pre-Cambrian rocks. The three great groups are divided +into minor divisions known as systems. The names of +these systems are arranged in order in the table and on +the right hand side the general characters of the rocks of +each system are stated.</p> + +<p>With these preliminary remarks we may now proceed +to a brief account of the geology of the county.</p> +<p><span class="pagenum">[23]</span></p> + +<p style="margin-left: 5%"><img src="images/illus10a.jpg" alt="Sectional diagram" /></p> +<p class="caption">Sectional Diagram</p> + +<p style="font-size:65%">This cross section shows what would be seen in a deep cutting nearly E. +and W. across England and Wales. It shows also how, in consequence of +the folding of the strata and the cutting off of the uplifted parts, old +rocks which should be thousands of feet down are found in borings in +East Anglia only 1000 feet or so below the surface.</p> + + + +<p>In Cornwall there is a succession of nodes of granite +<span class="pagenum">[24]</span> +rising to the surface, a continuation westward of the mass +of Dartmoor. It has surged to the surface in four large +masses continued westward by the Scilly Isles. These +granitic masses have upheaved the superincumbent beds of +stratified rocks, partly melting them. These distinct +nodes are: the Bodmin moors, the St Austell elevation, +the Carn Menelez, and the Land's End district. Smaller +masses of granite occur in the double heights of Godolphin +and Tregonning, St Michael's Mount, Carn Brea and +Carn Marth, and Castel-an-Dinas.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus11.jpg" alt="The Cheesewring" /><a name="illus11" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The Cheesewring</p> + +<p>The Elvans are dykes of quartz-porphyry which issue +from the granite into the surrounding slates, and are often +mistakenly supposed to be a bastard granite.</p> + +<p>The granite in its upheaval has strangely altered and +<span class="pagenum">[25]</span> +contorted the superposed beds. There are as well intrusive +veins of igneous rocks. In the Lizard district is +serpentine, a compact, tough rock often of a green colour, +lending itself to a high polish, and forming magnificent +cliffs with a special gloss and colour, as well as maintaining +on the surface a special flora.</p> + +<p>The prime feature in Cornish geology is the upheaval +of the granite, distorting, folding back, and altering the +superincumbent beds.</p> + +<p>In the north-east of Cornwall from a line drawn from +below Launceston, on the Tamar, to Boscastle the rocks +belong to the culm measures of North Devon. All the +rest of the peninsula, except the protruding granite and the +serpentine of the Lizard, pertains to the Devonian series of +sedimentary rocks, in which the first signs of life appear; +consisting largely of clay-slate, locally known as Killas, +alternating with beds of red or grey grit and sandstone. +Although these slaty rocks must be some thousand feet in +thickness, they have been so broken up and turned over +by the convulsions of the earth that their chronological +sequence cannot easily be determined. In these convulsions +they have been rent, and through the rents have +been driven hot blasts that have deposited crystalline veins, +or injections of trap and other volcanic matter, altering +the character of the rock through which they have been +driven. By the Menheniot Station on the G.W.R. is a +hill of serpentine thrown up at one jet, and now largely +quarried for the sake of the roads.</p> + +<p>The culm measures already alluded to consist of black +shales and slates with seams of grit and chert, much undulated +<span class="pagenum">[26]</span> +through enormous lateral pressure. The granite, +the lowest and most ancient formation of all, was itself +consolidated under vast pressure from above, and was not +in a molten condition when forced to the surface. Had +it been so, it would have resolved itself into lava. It was +cold when upheaved, tearing apart the superincumbent +stratified sedimentary rocks, which disappeared from the +summits, and on all sides about these upheavals were +twisted, contorted, thrown back, and fissured.</p> + +<p>Atmospheric effect and natural gravitation is constantly +carrying the soil from the upper land, from the +hills into the bottoms, and consequently it is in the latter +that we find the richest land, best calculated to repay the +toil of the agriculturist. On the high moors there is little +depth of so called "meat earth," below which is clay and +grit, hard and unprofitable, commonly called the "calm" +or the "deads." But adjoining the granite is the wash from +it of its dissolved felspar, the china-clay that furnishes the +inhabitants of the St Austell district with a remunerative +and ever-growing industry, of which more presently.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap7" id="chap7"></a>7. Natural History.</h2> + + +<p>Various facts, which can only shortly be mentioned +here, go to show that the British Isles have not existed as +such, and separated from the Continent, for any great +length of geological time. Around our coasts, for instance, +and specially in Cornwall, are in several places remains of +forests now sunk beneath the sea, and only to be seen at +<span class="pagenum">[27]</span> +extreme low water. Between England and the Continent +the sea is very shallow, and St Paul's Cathedral might be +placed anywhere in the North Sea without submerging its +summit, but a little west of Ireland we soon come to very +deep soundings. Great Britain and Ireland were thus +once part of the Continent and are examples of what +geologists call recent continental islands. But we also +have no less certain proof that at some anterior period +they were almost entirely submerged. The fauna and +flora thus being destroyed, the land would have to be restocked +with animals and plants from the Continent when +union again took place, the influx of course coming from +the east and south. As, however, it was not long before +separation occurred, not all the continental species could +establish themselves. We should thus expect to find that +the parts in the neighbourhood of the Continent were +richer in species and those furthest off poorer, and this +proves to be the case both in plants and animals. While +Britain has fewer species than France or Belgium, Ireland +has still less than Britain.</p> + +<p>Small though England may be, she can nevertheless +show most striking differences of fauna and flora in +different districts. On the moors of the north, for +example, the heaths and berries underfoot, and the larger +birds of prey and grouse which now and again meet our +view offer a marked contrast to—let us say—the furze-clad +chalk downs of Sussex, where the wheatear and +whinchat and the copper butterflies and "blues" are +familiar objects. These differences depend upon a number +of conditions, often mutually interdependent—upon variations +<span class="pagenum">[28]</span> +of soil, rainfall, temperature, and so forth. Cornwall +presents unusual peculiarities in many ways, and we may +now consider how far these have affected the creatures +and plants within her borders.</p> + +<p>Firstly, Cornwall is remotely situated—one of the +extreme points of Western Europe—and, whether the +fact be dependent on food conditions or not, we find +that there are several species of bird, common in other +parts of England, which do not occur within the county, +such as the nightingale, the wood warbler, garden warbler, +redstart, and others. It would almost seem as if some of +these species had not found their way thither since the +re-peopling of the land by its present fauna, but were in +gradual process of doing so, for there is no doubt that +many birds rare or unknown in the Duchy half a century +ago are now not uncommon, and appear to be steadily +moving westward. That the starling is doing so is +perhaps not remarkable, for this bird has enormously +increased in numbers of late years and has spread everywhere, +even up into northern Scotland, but it is curious +that birds like the stock-dove and all the woodpeckers +and other non-gregarious sorts should show this tendency.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus12.jpg" alt="In a Cornish Garden" /><a name="illus12" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">In a Cornish Garden</p> + +<p>Next, Cornwall is from its position constantly exposed +to high winds, and to heavy gales in winter, combined +with an unusually heavy rainfall and an "insular" climate +tending to warmth and equableness. These factors, added +to the granitic formation of much of its area, have made +it a country of bleak moorland varied with thickly-wooded +deep valleys—dampness being the leading characteristic of +both. With such physical conditions, then, we should +<span class="pagenum">[29]</span> +expect to find the Duchy not very varied in its native +trees, perhaps, but particularly abundant in ferns, and +this is the case, for 39 species are recorded, while lichens +are not less rich. It bears in many ways a resemblance +to the climate of Portugal, for here the camellia flourishes +and displays its beautiful flowers to perfection, and the tea +plant does so well that there seems no reason why it +should not be grown for profit. It is not a land of +warblers, nor can it show the rich and varied wildfowl +fauna of the Fenlands, but there is no county in England +where, in the marshy glens, woodcocks are more abundant. +The moorlands, too, abound in snipe, and at one time +blackgame were common, but the larger birds of prey +<span class="pagenum">[30]</span> +have for the most part vanished, though an occasional +buzzard may be seen and the raven is not yet extinct.</p> + +<p>Lastly, it is to be noted that Cornwall is the nearest +part of England to America. However difficult it may +be of explanation, the fact remains that the Duchy is +very rich in rare birds; so rich, indeed, that their recorded +occurrence cannot by any possibility be merely accidental. +Thus, no less than 24 species have occurred in Cornwall +which have never been found in Devonshire. But more +than this, a very large number of these—18 or more—are +purely American species. The question is, whence +do they come? Professor James Clark, who has discussed +the point at some length in the <i>Victoria County History</i>, +is, apparently, loth to believe that they can come directly +across the Atlantic, and it is by many thought that they +are driven back by heavy south-westerly weather when +dropping down the English Channel, having come by a +circuitous route from Northern Europe. But against this +is the undeniable fact that it is in the immediate neighbourhood +of the Land's End that the chief rarities and +stragglers are obtained, while many species have been +shot in the Scilly Islands which have never been recorded +from Cornwall itself.</p> + +<p>So far as its botany is concerned, Cornwall does not +differ very markedly from Devonshire, but it has a large +number of rare or peculiar plants. The highlands and +north coast are rather poor in species; it is on the banks +and estuaries of the streams that the richest flora is seen. +A number of foreign plants are found, mostly in the +neighbourhood of Falmouth and other ports. The balsam, +<span class="pagenum">[31]</span> +<i>Impatiens Roylei</i>, from India, grows extremely abundantly +between Liskeard and Looe, and near Tintagel, and a +species of May-weed (<i>Matricaria discoidea</i>) has become +a troublesome pest near Falmouth. Loe Pool in the +Lizard district is noticeable for the number of rare and +local plants it possesses. The Scilly Islands own certain +plants peculiar to them; thus, <i>Trifolium repens</i>, var. +<i>Townsendi</i> and <i>Ornithopus ebracteatus</i> are said not to be +found elsewhere in England, and <i>Carex ligerica</i> only in +Norfolk.</p> + +<p>The chief feature of the mammals of the county is +that the grey seal, <i>Halichaerus gryphus</i>, is quite numerous +in the Scilly Islands; that the polecat, though nearly +extinct, is still found; and that both badgers and otters +are very abundant. It is a curious fact that certain +freshwater fish common in other parts of England, such +as pike, roach, chub, and bream, are unknown.</p> + +<p>The bird which bears the distinctive appellation, the +Cornish chough (it is not confined to the county, but is +also found in Wales), is now not nearly as common as +formerly, but like the raven it still breeds on some parts +of the coast.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap8" id="chap8"></a>8. Around the Coast. From Morwenstow to Land's End.</h2> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus13.jpg" alt="Bude Breakwater" /><a name="illus13" title=""></a></p> + +<p class="caption">Bude Breakwater</p> + +<p>This noble coast—so terrible to sailors—begins with +the fine Henna Cliff at Morwenstow. Morwenstow +Church contains an early font and has fine Norman arches. +<span class="pagenum">[32]</span> +Here is Tonacombe, an interesting early Tudor house +quite unspoiled. At Morwenstow lived the Rev. Robert +Hawker, a poet and character. Bude Haven is a growing +seaside place, with golf-links and tolerable bathing. +Stratton, of which parish it actually forms or did form +a part, has a fine well-cared for church, and above the town +is Stamford Hill, where was fought a battle in the Civil +War, on May 16, 1643. Sir Bevil Grenville and Hopton +commanded the Royalist Army, and the Earl of Stamford +the Parliamentarians. The latter were defeated with the +loss of 300 men killed and 1700 taken prisoners. One of +the old guns marks the site, and an inscription in commemoration +of the battle is affixed to the Tree Inn. +Widemouth Bay has good sands and promises at some +<span class="pagenum">[33]</span> +future day to become a sea-bathing place superior to Bude. +At Dazard the cliffs are fine; at St Gennys is Crackington +Cove with a small beach. Beyond this, High Cliff (705 ft.) +is reached, the loftiest headland on the coast. The coast +is magnificent to Boscastle. Near this is Pentargon, a +beautiful bay into which a little stream leaps in a waterfall. +Boscastle is a narrow creek into which only in calm +weather can small vessels enter. It is sheltered by a +headland in which is a blow-hole. In a lovely valley is +the towerless church of Minster. In caves about Willapark +seals breed. From hence to Tintagel the cliffs are +of slate and are quarried, the slate being let down into +boats in the water, when weather permits. Before reaching +Tintagel we come to St Neighton's (Nectan's) Kieve, +a small waterfall in a glen, where maidenhair fern +once abounded.</p> + +<p>Tintagel village is separated from the church by a +deep glen. The church is on a windy height, and is +interesting for its antiquity. Tintagel castle stands on a +headland, once an island, but the cliff and a portion of +the castle have fallen into the narrow gulf and choked it. +The sea has bored a tunnel through the headland, and very +little of the castle remains. The walls were of the local +slate-stone set in mortar made of sea-shells. In this castle, +traditionally, King Arthur was born. There are slate +quarries in the neighbourhood, and further inland are the +Delabole quarries, from which slate is conveyed to all +parts of England.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus14.jpg" alt="King Arthur's Castle, Tintagel" /><a name="illus14" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">King Arthur's Castle, Tintagel</p> + +<p>The small Trebarwith Cove is passed and then we +reach Port Isaac Bay, which takes its name, not from the +<span class="pagenum">[34]</span> +patriarch, but from a Cornish word that signifies a port +for corn.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus15.jpg" alt="Bodruthan Steps" /><a name="illus15" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Bodruthan Steps</p> + +<p>Porthqueen has its pilchard cellars cut out of the rocks; +and at the western end of its bay Pentire Head stands out +boldly into the Atlantic with a cliff castle at its extreme +point. Pentire to some extent shelters Padstow Bay, but +the entrance to the harbour is made dangerous by the +Doom Bar lying across it. Here the rounded, sand-powdered +<span class="pagenum">[35]</span> +Bray Hill is supposed to have buried under the +drift sand the remains of a Roman town, but that there +was such a Roman settlement is very doubtful. Further +inland is the church of St Enodoc recently dug out of the +sand, and the path to the porch has singular "Lord's +Measures" that have been collected and are here planted. +They were measures for grain. Of Padstow something +shall be said elsewhere. Before reaching Trevose Head +is Harlyn Bay, where from under the sand has been dug +out a cemetery of the iron age, the skeletons crouching +with their chins to their knees, in slate kists or coffins, with +bronze ornaments, glass and amber beads, and iron instruments. +<span class="pagenum">[36]</span> +Here also by the falling of the earth or sand some +gold ornaments of the Celtic period were laid bare. On +Trevose Head is a lighthouse. In Constantine Bay are +the remains of a church half buried in sand, and with +bones strewn about it. The font from this abandoned +church has been transferred to St Merryn. It is of black +Catacluse stone, as are the piers and arches of the church, +giving it a sombre look. Passing the little Porthcothan we +come to the noble cliffs of Bodruthan Steps, perhaps the +finest bit of the north-coast scenery, and then reach +<span class="pagenum">[37]</span> +Mawgan Porth, the estuary of the tiny stream that waters +the vale of Lanherne. Here is the ancient mansion of +the Arundells, dating from 1580, granted by Lord Arundell +to Carmelite nuns, who came to England, at the outbreak +of the French Revolution, in 1794. They have remained +here ever since in seclusion. Near the door into their +chapel is an old cross with inscription and interlaced work. +The church has a beautifully proportioned tower, a good +rood-screen, and many monuments of the Arundells, as +well as a remarkable Gothic cross. A grove of Cornish +elms like whips occupies the bottom of the valley. The +church and parish are St Mawgan in Pyder.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus16.jpg" alt="Newquay Harbour" /><a name="illus16" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Newquay Harbour</p> + +<p>Newquay with its sands is a rapidly growing watering-place, +with staring hotels. Crantock church, which once +<span class="pagenum">[38]</span> +had its canons, is interesting; it has been carefully restored +and has a fine rood-screen and loft. On the stalls is +carved a dove with a chip of wood in its beak, and the +story goes that St Carantoc—who assisted St Patrick in +drawing up the Senchus Môr, the code of laws for Christian +Ireland—was guided to the site for his church by seeing a +dove carry off the shavings of his staff which he was +cutting. Perran Bay has sent its sands flying inland, +causing a widespread extent of <i>towans</i> or dunes, which +have overwhelmed first of all the old church of St Piran +or Cieran of Saighir in Ireland, who was buried in it, and +then a second church built further inland, which also in +turn had to be abandoned. These sand-dunes are a rabbit +warren. The old church of St Piran, extremely rude in +construction, has been excavated, but the only carved work +found has been removed to the museum at Truro. The +church resembles one of the early Christian chapels in +Ireland. Bones are scattered about around it.</p> + +<p>St Agnes—or St Aun's Head as it is locally termed—is +but 617 ft. high, but it stands boldly above the sea.</p> + +<p>Portreath is a busy little place to which coal-barges +come from Cardiff with coal for the Camborne and Redruth +mines. Tehidy Park, which stands above it, is an old +seat of the Bassets. After passing Navax Point the broad +Bay of St Ives opens out, with a lighthouse at each horn, +and here again begin the towans or sand-dunes. Hayle is +at the mouth of a small stream of the same name, and +signifies "saltings." We come now to the town of +St Ives, with an interesting church and an old cross. +St Ives till about 1410 was but a tiny fishing village and +<span class="pagenum">[39]</span> +was in the parish of Lelant. Perkin Warbeck landed +near here in 1497.</p> + +<p>Near this is the Knill monument erected in 1782 by +the eccentric John Knill, who left money for an annual +procession to it, and a dance of children around it. He +intended it to have been his mausoleum, but he died and +was buried in London.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus17.jpg" alt="The Wharf, St Ives" /><a name="illus17" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The Wharf, St Ives</p> + + +<p>Zennor has a curious little church with carved bench +ends, on one of which is represented a mermaid, and Zennor +"quoit" is thought to be the largest cromlech in England.</p> + +<p>The Gurnard's Head has sheer cliffs on east and west, +composed of slaty felspar, horneblende and greenstone, +whereas the rocks of Zennor are of granite and slate in +juxtaposition, and with dykes of granite penetrating the +slate. Hills of rock and heather and furze bend round in +<span class="pagenum">[40]</span> +a crescent terminating on one side at Carnminnis, on the +other at Carn Galva, enclosing a great basin that reaches +to the cliffs. On the isthmus connecting the headland +with the mainland is a ruined chapel, with the altar-stone +entire. Three miles westward is Morvah with the interesting +Chûn Castle above it, of rude stone forming three +concentric rings, and not far off is Chûn cromlech.</p> + +<p>We come now to Botallack with its famous mine, +carried to a depth of a thousand feet and extending a +considerable distance under the sea. In time of storm the +booming of the waves overhead and the clashing of stones +rolled by the billows is so great that the bravest miners +are driven from their work. Tin mining is now but +languidly carried on. Although the heights are not great, +yet this portion of coast is remarkably fine.</p> + +<p>Cape Cornwall exhibits the junction of the slate with +the granite. Here also extensive mining has been carried +on, and Boswedden, like Botallack, burrowed far under +the sea. Near the church of St Just is one of the circles +or amphitheatres in which miracle plays were performed. +The "Merry Maidens" is a prehistoric stone circle in the +neighbourhood with ten stones erect and five fallen.</p> + +<p>Whitesand Bay enjoys some slight shelter from the +S. and E. winds. It is said that this bay was the landing-place +of Athelstan after his conquest of Scilly, of King +Stephen in 1135, and of King John when he returned +from Ireland. In Sennen Cove is a cluster of fishermen's +cottages.</p> + +<p>Land's End is the end of Penwith, the "chief headland," +and the Bolerium of the ancients. It commands +<span class="pagenum">[41]</span> +a magnificent view, extending to Cape Cornwall over +Whitesand Bay, of the Longships rocks with their lighthouse, +and in clear weather of the Scilly Isles. The Wolf +lighthouse is planted on a dangerous rock of felspathic +porphyry some eight miles S.W. from the shore. The +Land's End bristles with sharp fangs of rock, and somewhat +resembles the back of an alligator.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus18.jpg" alt="Land's End" /><a name="illus18" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Land's End</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap9" id="chap9"></a>9. Around the Coast. From Land's End to Rame Head.</h2> + + +<p>The south coast-line of Cornwall presents a great +contrast to that of the north, except for the portion from +the Land's End to Mounts Bay and the Lizard. We +<span class="pagenum">[42]</span> +have no more the wind-swept background of heights, +barren and often tortured by miners, turned into a waste +of heaps of rubble and studded with ruined engine-houses. +We find instead a gentler sea-board, pierced by long +estuaries, and with valleys of rich vegetation running down +to the sea. We speedily leave the granite and the culm +measures, and are among the rocks of the Devonian series, +less stern and forbidding in colour. In St Levan parish +at Trereen Point is the Logan Rock, a block of granite +weighing over 65 tons, once so nicely balanced that it +could be made to rock by the finger of a child. In 1874 +a young naval officer, with the assistance of a boat's crew, +upset it. This raised a storm of indignation in Cornwall, +and the Admiralty ordered him to replace it, which he +did, at great expense.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus19.jpg" alt="Newlyn Pier" /><a name="illus19" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Newlyn Pier</p> +<p><span class="pagenum">[43]</span></p> + + + +<p>Mousehole is a village of fishermen and boatmen, and +was the residence of Dolly Pentreath, the last person in +Cornwall who spoke the Cornish language, as also of +some of the unfortunate sailors who joined Captain Allan +Gardner in 1850 in his ill-fated missionary expedition to +South America. All the members of the mission died of +starvation in Tierra del Fuego.</p> + + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus20.jpg" alt="St Michael's Mount" /><a name="illus20" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">St Michael's Mount</p> +<p><span class="pagenum">[44]</span></p> + + +<p>Newlyn has become noted as a place of residence of a +school of artists. It is on the wide and beautiful Mounts +Bay over against St Michael's Mount.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus21.jpg" alt="Kynance Cove and the Lizard" /><a name="illus21" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Kynance Cove and the Lizard</p> + +<p>Penzance ("the Holy Head") has become a great resort +of residents for the winter, owing to the mildness of the +climate. Marazion or Market Jew does not derive its +name from "the Bitter Waters of Zion" as has been +absurdly asserted; Marazion has the same significance as +Market Jeu (i.e. Jeudi), Thursday Market. Here is a +submerged forest. St Michael's Mount is a rock that rises +out of the sands and can be reached, when the tide falls, +by a causeway. It is incomparably inferior both in elevation +and in the dignity of the buildings that crown it to +the Mont St Michel in Normandy, but is nevertheless a +<span class="pagenum">[45]</span> +picturesque adjunct to the scene. Some writers suppose +that it is the Ictis to which the natives conveyed the tin +and trafficked with the Phoenicians, but it is totally unsuited +by nature to serve as a market-site, and there is no certain +evidence that the Phoenicians ever came to Cornwall. +About Marazion daffodils, narcissus, and violets are +cultivated largely for the London market. At Perran +Uthnoe the cliffs again appear, and we reach Prussia +<span class="pagenum">[46]</span> +Cove, once the haunt of smugglers. Inland, Godolphin +and Tregonning's granite hills are conspicuous, and near +the coast is Pergersick Castle, a picturesque ruin of which +strange legends are told. Porthleven is a small fishing +village, where the people live on the annual arrival of +the pilchards. Loe Pool is a beautiful sheet of water +cut off from the sea by a bar of sand. It was when +standing on this bar, and watching the wreck of a vessel +close in shore when those on the land were unable to +communicate with it, that Henry Trengrouse conceived +the idea of a rocket apparatus, to be not only employed +on land, but also to be carried by every ship. He, of +course, met with opposition from the Board of Trade and +the Government, and he spent his life and his fortune in +experiments, and in endeavours to push his apparatus.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus22.jpg" alt="Mullion Cove" /><a name="illus22" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Mullion Cove</p> + +<p>We now reach the superb serpentine cliffs of the Lizard +with the beautiful coves of Polurrian, Mullion, and +Kynance. At Lizard Point is one of the most famous +of all lighthouses, the departure-point or landfall of +thousands of ships in the course of the year. The +peninsula of the Lizard is interesting, though the land +does not rise much above 300 ft., and is monotonous +moorland. All its charm is in its coast-line. The terrible +Manacles rocks have been the scene of many a wreck. +Helford river is a creek running up to Gweek in one arm +and nearly to Constantine in another. We now reach +Falmouth Bay, into which opens the Carrick Road. A +curious peninsula, Roseland, runs to Zoze Point, where +there is a lighthouse. Portscatho is a small place at the +opening of Gerrans Bay, of which the eastern horn is +<span class="pagenum">[47]</span> +Nare Point. Carn Beacon is traditionally held to have +been the burial-place of Geraint, King of Devon and +Cornwall. There were more than one of this name. +The cairn has been opened and was found to contain a +stone cist of the bronze period, and not, as tradition said, +his golden boat with silver oars. Veryan Bay between +Nare Point and the Dodman has in it no good harbour. +Dodman stands nearly 380 ft. above the sea. +<span class="pagenum">[48]</span></p> +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus23.jpg" alt="Falmouth, from Flushing" /><a name="illus23" title=""></a></p> + +<p class="caption">Falmouth, from Flushing</p> + +<p>Mevagissey Bay is a shallow hollow between Chapel +Point and Black Head, the latter crowned by one of the +cliff castles found on almost every headland. Then comes +St Austell Bay with that of Tywardreath opening out of +it. Charlestown has latterly become of importance, as +from thence much china-clay is shipped. +<span class="pagenum">[49]</span></p> + +<p>We reach now the narrow estuary of the Fowey river, +with Fowey town consisting of one narrow street beside +the tidal creek, and with Polruan on the further shore. +The coast now becomes very bold, and Polperro, five miles +beyond, was once a notorious haunt of smugglers.</p> +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus24.jpg" alt="Polperro" /><a name="illus24" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Polperro</p> + +<p>At Looe, the two rivers bearing the same name fall +into a bay, and seaward stands up Looe Island, crowned +by the ruins of a chapel. This island was also a haunt of +smugglers, and it was found necessary to establish a coastguard +station on it to keep them in control. East Looe +and West Looe each sent two members to Parliament +before the passing of the Reform Bill.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus25.jpg" alt="Looe" /><a name="illus25" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Looe</p> + +<p>Between Looe and Rame Head is Whitesand Bay, +so called from the whiteness of the sand. The quicksands +<span class="pagenum">[50]</span> +have made it dangerous for bathers, but the cliff scenery is +beautiful and romantic. There is a tiny watering-place at +its western end, Downderry. At Tregantle is the most important +of the western defences of Plymouth. A peninsula +is formed by the Lynher river which discharges into the +Hamoaze, and the neck of land between it and the sea is +about two miles in breadth. Tregantle stands 400 ft. above +the sea and commands every approach to Plymouth Sound.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[51]</span></p> + +<p>Rame Head projects into the sea from Maker Heights +and is the termination of a range of cliffs from Looe, +and from hence a fine view can be had of the Cornish +coast as far as the Lizard.</p> + +<p>On the east of Penlee Point is Cawsand Bay, once +infested with smugglers, sheltered by Rame Head from +westerly gales. A rock with a cave in it and a white +incrustation is regarded here with some superstitious +reverence, and fishermen throw a few pilchards or herrings +to it as an oblation when returning from fishing.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap10" id="chap10"></a>10. The Coast—Gains and Losses.</h2> + + +<p>At a vastly remote period a valley lay between +Britain and Gaul—before ever they were Britain and +Gaul—and through this well-wooded valley flowed a +river. The coast-line of Britain then lay from one to two +hundred miles to the west, where is now the great drop +in the ocean depths from 100 fathoms to 300 or 400. +Cornwall was a Mesopotamia, a land between two almost +parallel rivers, one occupying the bottom of what is now +<span class="pagenum">[52]</span> +the English Channel, the other being the Severn. At +that time the Bristol Channel was another great valley. +From Brown Willy to the Scilly Isles ran a lofty mountain +range, towering into the sky, of which the present Bodmin +moors, Carn Brea, Carn Marth, Tregonning Hill, etc., +are but the abraded stumps. Not only were they much +higher, but their present roots stood 300 ft. higher than at +present.</p> + +<p>Then ensued a sinking of the land, and the Atlantic +flowed into the valley to the south and joined the North +Sea; and at the same time the Bristol Channel was formed. +Thus the present coast was approximately outlined.</p> + +<p>At some period shortly after, a vast inundation swept +over the land from the north, and carried down the +degraded granite, depositing the tin beds in the hollows. +As early as 1830, Mr Carne noted: "The peculiar +situation in which nearly all the stream tin of Cornwall +is found is highly illustrative of the direction in which +the current of the deluge swept over the surface. All the +productive streams are in the valleys which open to the +sea on the southern side of the Cornish peninsula; whilst +most of the richest veins are situated near the northern +coast."</p> + +<p>The deposit of tin stone, or tin ground, lies directly +on the <i>shelf</i>, or primitive surface of rock, and is carried +far out in the estuaries, and overlaid by marine deposits.</p> + +<p>In 1828, in Carnon Creek, a cairn was discovered +16 to 18 ft. below the surface, and that surface 4 to 5 ft. +below low water mark. In it was a crouched skeleton. +This shows that there must have been a subsidence of the +<span class="pagenum">[53]</span> +land of something like 30 ft. at least since the period +when man in the late stone or early bronze age inhabited +Cornwall.</p> + +<p>The submarine forests grew on the top of the tin +ground. Of these many have been noted and recorded, +not only on the south coast, but on the north as well. +The trees were oak and hazel, alder and elm, but they +never reached a large size.</p> + +<p>Above this bed lie the raised beaches, some 40 or 50 ft. +above high water mark. The tin-beds in the Cornish +valleys towards the sea do not exhibit such an upheaval. +Generally the raised beach rests on the original rock, and +consists of rolled stones, frequently of large size, mixed +with smaller gravel and sand. The "Head of Rubble," +with some intervening perplexing beds of sand, may be +noticed on the coast. This Head is from 40 to 50 ft. in +depth. It is composed of angular fragments of rock, often +large, many of quartz, with no signs of stratification. +The Rubble bed in Cornwall has yielded no organic +remains, but elsewhere in it have been found the bones of +the mammoth, elephant, woolly rhinoceros, reindeer, etc. +It was not formed by the disintegration of the subjacent +rocks, but by aqueous transport. It owes its origin to a +powerful force of water, acting violently and rapidly. It +caps the heights, and is not in the valleys where the tin +ground has been deposited. It has not therefore been +found to overlie it. It was due to a sudden and brief +overrush of water, and the fragments of stone carried +before the flood did not travel sufficiently far to have +their angles rubbed down. +<span class="pagenum">[54]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus26.jpg" alt="Perranporth Rocks" /><a name="illus26" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Perranporth Rocks</p> + +<p>As may well be supposed, the action of the sea on the +coast-line has been affected largely by the character of the +rocks against which the waves have lashed themselves to +foam. Where the rocks are of granite or slate, the tide +and the waves have very little effect upon the outline of +the coast; it is in those places where the softer rocks +<span class="pagenum">[55]</span> +prevail, and where exposure to the prevalent wind induces +breakers of great volume, that the loss of land by the +action of the sea is greatest. In fact, the tides rarely run +beyond one or two miles per hour, except round headlands, +and it is where the rocks are of a yielding character that +the coves and bays are formed. This is not always the +case. Where the sea has found a fault in the rock it will +burrow incessantly till it has bored out for itself a cavern, +and the head of this falling in produces a tiny cove. The +hard quartzose and trap rocks of Trevose Head, the +greenstone rocks of Pentire, near Padstow, the hard slates +of St Agnes, the greenstone and hardened schist of the +Gurnard's Head, and the granite of the Land's End, defy +the action of wave and tide. But it is otherwise where, +for instance, the Head of Rubble occurs. "In Gerrans +Bay it is plain that the cliffs of Head were at one time +much further out than they are now. The tops of the +earthy cliffs are split with cracks and miniature chasms, +showing that great masses are constantly being detached +by atmospheric causes, while the great heaps of earth at +the foot of the cliffs show how for centuries masses of +earth have rolled down from their tops on to the beach +below<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>." As to the kingdom of Lyonesse, which was supposed +to extend from the Land's End to beyond Scilly, it +never existed in the historic or prehistoric period. Another +fable that may be dismissed, is that St Michael's Mount +was surrounded by a vast tract of woodland, in which +were villages, and where settled hermits. It did rise +<span class="pagenum">[56]</span> +above a forest, but that was in a prehistoric period. But +if the sea gains on the land but imperceptibly in one way, +it gains in another on the north coast, by the action of the +wind carrying the sand inland, and overwhelming field +after field. It is not a little curious to mark, nevertheless, +how a small dribble of a stream will arrest the onward +march of the sand-dunes.</p> + +<p>At Constantine by Padstow as already said the old +church is enveloped in sand-hills, so is that of St Enodoc. +The Perran Sands have so encroached that they extend +over a mile and a half inland and have in process of time +swallowed up two churches and a village. The Gear +Sands have even climbed a hill to the height of 300 ft. +The Godrevy, Upton and Phillack towans have moved +inland from St Ives' Bay and engulfed the residence of +the ancient kings of Cornwall at Riviere.</p> + +<p>The same phenomenon has not taken place in the +south, but there the estuaries have been silted up by the +wash from the stream tin works. Formerly boats could +come up to Tregony. Now the Fal is choked with +detritus for miles down. Restronguet creek bore vessels +to Perranarworthal. Now it is completely silted up, only +a trickle of water running down through desolate morasses +and flats resulting from the workings of the miners.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> D.C. Whitley, "The Head of Rubble," +in <i>Journal of the R. Inst. of Cornwall</i>, XVII. p. 67.</p></div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap11" id="chap11"></a>11. The Coast—Tides, Islands, and Lighthouses.</h2> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[57]</span></p> + +<p>Off the mouth of the English Channel the tidal-stream +is materially influenced by the indraft and outset of +the channel, and is found to run northward and eastward +with a falling tide at Dover, and southward and westward +with a rising tide at that place. At spring tides the tide +rises in Padstow Bay 22 ft., at Bude a foot higher, at the +Lizard only 14½ ft., at Scilly 16 ft. Nowhere on the +Cornish coast is there the enormous rise seen at St Malo, +where ordinary tides rise from 23 to 26 ft., and spring tides +48 ft. above low-water mark.</p> + +<p>On account of the varying force with which the +channel and spring tides blend south of the Scilly group +the stream is incessantly altering, but north of this towards +the Bristol Channel, the stream becomes more regular, +and while the water is ebbing at Dover, it sets northward +turning sharply round Trevose Head into the Bristol +Channel, and so when the tide is flowing at Dover, it is +running with equal speed in ebb out of the channel and +along the coast towards Scilly. +<span class="pagenum">[58]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus27.jpg" alt="Round Island, Scilly" /><a name="illus27" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Round Island, Scilly</p> + +<p>The Scilly Isles are the sole group of any importance +around the coast. They are situated 40 miles due west +from the Lizard Point and 25 west-south-west from the +Land's End, and are reached by steamers from Penzance. +There are now but five of the isles inhabited, St Mary's, +Tresco, St Agnes, St Martin's, and Bryher. Formerly +Sampson was also inhabited, but the inhabitants were +<span class="pagenum">[59]</span> +removed to St Mary's. The total acreage of the islands +is 3560; and the formation is granite. This group is in +fact the rubbed-down stump of the last great peak of the +chain running south-west from Bodmin moors. The +heights in the islands are inconsiderable, but very bold and +picturesque scenery is obtained among the many islets, +each of which has its special character. At St Mary's is +a pier built in 1835-8; and a harbour called the Pool for +small craft, while further out between the islands is a good +roadstead for large vessels. The Scilly Isles were noted +as a resting-place for innumerable birds, some very rare, in +their annual migrations, but of late years gun-practice at +sea marks has scared a good many away, and they visit the +islands in far fewer numbers than formerly.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus28.jpg" alt="The Longships Lighthouse" /><a name="illus28" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The Longships Lighthouse</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[60]</span></p> + +<p>The coast of Cornwall is remarkably free of shoals. +The only dangerous sandbank is the Doom Bar at the +mouth of the Bay of Padstow; but there are shallows in +Mounts Bay and other places.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus29.jpg" alt="Eddystone Lighthouse" /><a name="illus29" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Eddystone Lighthouse</p> + +<p>Trinity House, the first general lighthouse and pilotage +authority in the kingdom, was composed of a body of +merchants and seamen founded in 1519 by Sir Thomas +Speet, controller of the navy, when it was granted a +<span class="pagenum">[61]</span> +charter by Henry VIII. Since that period the duty of +erecting and maintaining lighthouses and other sea-marks +has been entrusted to the Corporation by Royal Charter +and Acts of Parliament. Trinity House maintains ten +lighthouses about the coast of Cornwall, of which the +most important, besides those of the Scilly Isles, are the +Longships, white and red occulting; the Wolf rock, white +and red group flash; the Lizard, white flash; the Eddystone, +white flash.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap12" id="chap12"></a>12. Climate—Rainfall.</h2> + + +<p>The climate of a country or district is, briefly, the +average weather of that country or district, and it depends +upon various factors, all mutually interacting—upon the +latitude, the temperature, the direction and strength of +the winds, the rainfall, the character of the soil, and the +proximity of the district to the sea.</p> + +<p>The differences in the climates of the world depend +mainly upon latitude, but a scarcely less important +factor is this proximity to the sea. Along any great +climatic zone there will be found variations in proportion +to this proximity, the extremes being "continental" +climates in the centres of continents far from the oceans, +and "insular" climates in small tracts surrounded by sea. +Continental climates show great differences in seasonal +temperatures, the winters tending to be unusually cold +and the summers unusually warm, while the climate of +insular tracts is characterised by equableness and also by +<span class="pagenum">[62]</span> +greater dampness. Great Britain possesses, by reason of +its position, a temperate insular climate, but its average +annual temperature is much higher than could be expected +from its latitude. The prevalent south-westerly winds +cause a drift of the surface-waters of the Atlantic towards +our shores, and this warm water current, which we know +as the Gulf Stream, is the chief cause of the mildness of +our winters.</p> + +<p>Most of our weather comes to us from the Atlantic. +It would be impossible here within the limits of a short +chapter to discuss fully the causes which affect or control +weather changes. It must suffice to say that the conditions +are in the main either cyclonic or anticyclonic, which +terms may be best explained, perhaps, by comparing the +air currents to a stream of water. In a stream a chain +of eddies may often be seen fringing the more steadily-moving +central water. Regarding the general northeasterly +moving air from the Atlantic as such a stream, a +chain of eddies may be developed in a belt parallel with +its general direction. This belt of eddies or cyclones, as +they are termed, tends to shift its position, sometimes +passing over our islands, sometimes to the north or south +of them, and it is to this shifting that most of our weather +changes are due. Cyclonic conditions are associated with +a greater or less amount of atmospheric disturbance; +anticyclonic with calms.</p> + +<p>The prevalent Atlantic winds largely affect our island +in another way, namely in its rainfall. The air, heavily +laden with moisture from its passage over the ocean, +meets with elevated land-tracts directly it reaches our +<span class="pagenum">[63</span> +shores—the moorland of Devon and Cornwall, the Welsh +mountains, or the fells of Cumberland and Westmorland—and +blowing up the rising land-surface, parts with this +moisture as rain. To how great an extent this occurs is +best seen by reference to the accompanying map of the +annual rainfall of England, where it will at once be +noticed that the heaviest fall is in the west, and that it +decreases with remarkable regularity until the least fall +is reached on our eastern shores. Thus in 1906, the +maximum rainfall for the year occurred at Glaslyn in the +Snowdon district, where 205 inches of rain fell; and the +lowest was at Boyton in Suffolk, with a record of just +under 20 inches. These western highlands, therefore, +may not inaptly be compared to an umbrella, sheltering +the country further eastward from the rain.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/map3.jpg" alt="Annual Rainfall" /><a name="map3" title=""></a></p> + +<p>The above causes, then, are those mainly concerned +<span class="pagenum">[64]</span> +in influencing the weather, but there are other and more +local factors which often affect greatly the climate of a +place, such, for example, as configuration, position, and +soil. The shelter of a range of hills, a southern aspect, +a sandy soil, will thus produce conditions which may +differ greatly from those of a place—perhaps at no great +distance—situated on a wind-swept northern slope with +a cold clay soil.</p> + +<p>The character of the climate of a country or district +influences, as everyone knows, both the cultivation of the +soil and the products which it yields, and thus indirectly +as well as directly exercises a profound effect upon Man. +The banana-nourished dweller in a tropical island who +has but to tickle the earth with a hoe for it to laugh a +<span class="pagenum">[65]</span> +harvest is of different fibre morally and physically from +the inhabitant of northern climes who wins a scanty +subsistence from the land at the expense of unremitting +toil. These are extremes; but even within the limits of +a county, perhaps, similar if smaller differences may be +noted, and the man of the plain or the valley is often +distinct in type from his fellow of the hills.</p> + +<p>Very minute records of the climate of our island are +kept at numerous stations throughout the country, relating +to the temperature, rainfall, force and direction of the +wind, hours of sunshine, cloud conditions, and so forth, +and are duly collected, tabulated, and averaged by the +Meteorological Society. From these we are able to +compare and contrast the climatic conditions in various +parts.</p> + +<p>Cornwall, being so surrounded by the sea, and so +peculiarly under the influence of the Gulf Stream, may +be looked upon as possessing a local "insular" climate in +a marked degree. The south-west wind almost invariably +brings rain and warmth together, for the high cold granitic +moorlands are naturally calculated to arrest these warm +airs and chill them, causing thereby a downfall of the +suspended water. But Cornwall does not enjoy the +amount of sun heat to ripen fruit that is obtained on the +east coast of England, and it is exposed to furious gales +from the west. "The gale from the west," says Polwhele, +"is here no gentle zephyr; instead of wafting perfume on +its wings, it often brings devastation." On the north +coast every tree that is exposed to it is dwarfed and +bowed like a curling wave, and the foliage in spring is +<span class="pagenum">[66]</span> +often cut and browned by the salt spray. Even tombstones +in the churchyards on the heights have to be backed up +with masonry, and the churches are low, as if cowering +from the blast. According to a Cornish proverb: "There +falls a shower on every week day, and there are two on a +Sunday." In Scilly, however, there is more sunshine and +less rain than on the mainland. The myrtle, geranium, +fuchsia, and hydrangea grow luxuriantly; the red geranium +at Penzance will cover the front of a house, and palms and +other exotics thrive there and at Falmouth. The fields of +narcissus and daffodils cultivated for the market would be +more beautiful if the blooms were not systematically picked +before fully open, to be sent to London. No gardens in +England exhibit such a wealth of exotics as those of Tresco, +Carclew, Enys and Penjerrick, and some others in the +district of the Fal estuary, which seems peculiarly favourable +for the growth of sub-tropical species.</p> + +<p>In 1906, the mean temperature of England and Wales +was 49·3° Fahr., while that of Cornwall was 51·2. +The mean temperature of England in 1907 was 48·5, of +Cornwall 50·6. But there exists a considerable difference +between north and south. At Redruth it was in 1906, +50·1, whereas at Truro it was nine degrees higher.</p> + +<p>The east wind prevails in October and is strong in +March, the south-east in June, the south-west is felt in +every month save April, but very little in December. +The west wind is most prevalent in August, least so in +May. The north wind predominates in December and +July.</p> + +<p>The rainfall chart here given shows that Cornwall +<span class="pagenum">[67]</span> +lies for the most part in an area where from 40 to 60 +inches are annually recorded, though a strip of the north +coast from St Ives to Padstow and again from Boscastle to +the northern limit of the county shows a fall of less than +40 inches. This is because the uplands have robbed the +rainclouds of a considerable portion of their contents, and +accordingly it is on these high moorlands that we find the +greatest rainfall. Thus on the moors between Launceston +and Bodmin from 60 to 80 inches fall, and even this latter +figure is exceeded in the neighbourhood of Rough Tor +and Brown Willy.</p> + +<p>From observations taken at the Royal Institution of +Cornwall at Truro, from 1850 to 1881 it appears that the +rainiest months are November and December, and next to +them January and July; April and May are the least rainy.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap13" id="chap13"></a>13. People—Race, Dialect, Population.</h2> + + +<p>The original population of Cornwall would seem to +have been what is now commonly called Ivernian, the +same as Iberian, the underlying race everywhere in +Western Europe from the western isles of Scotland +to Gibraltar. When the Romans invaded and conquered +Spain, they found there already in the east the +Celts and in the west the Iberians, and they designated +the more or less fused population, Celtiberians. So in +Cornwall, there was this dark-haired, dusky-skinned race, +and the Brythons, Celts, of the people of the Dumnonii. +There were extensive settlements by Irish in the Land's +<span class="pagenum">[68]</span> +End district, the Lizard, and along the north coast, in 490-510, +owing to the expulsion of the Ossorians and the +Bairrche from their lands in Ireland. The Saxon also +crossed the Tamar and peaceably settled in East Cornwall.</p> + +<p>The language spoken was Brythonic, akin to, and +originally identical with Welsh and that spoken in Lower +Brittany. It was distinct in some points from the Goidelic +of Ireland, the Isle of Man, and the Highlands of Scotland. +The main difference was that the <i>C</i> in the latter became +<i>P</i> in the former. Thus <i>Ken</i> or <i>Cen</i> in such names as +Kenmare and Ciaran would in Cornish become Penmare +and Piran.</p> + +<p>In the reign of Edward I, Cornish was spoken in the +south Hams of Devonshire, but in the sixteenth century +it was dying out even in West Cornwall. Norden, writing +in 1580, says: "Of late the Cornish men have much conformed +themselves to the use of the English tongue, and +their English is equal to the beste, especially in the eastern +partes.... In the weste parte of the countrye, in the hundreds +of Penwith and Kirrier, the Cornishe tongue is most +in use amongste the inhabitants." At Menheniot about +1540 the Creed and the Lord's Prayer were first taught +the people in English. In 1678, at Landewednack, the +last Cornish sermon on record was preached. In the +reign of George III (1777) died Dolly Pentreath, the last +to speak the language.</p> + +<p>Two modern Cornish dialects exist. That in the east +very naturally is assimilated to the Devonshire; but in the +west it has formed itself in comparatively recent times. +The more common prefixes of names of places are: +<span class="pagenum">[69]</span>— +<i>Tre</i> an enclosure or homestead, <i>Lan</i> also an enclosure +for a church, <i>Ty</i> a dwelling, <i>Bod</i> a habitation, <i>Chy</i> a house, +<i>Pol</i> a pool, <i>Pen</i> a head, <i>Huel</i> or <i>Wheal</i> a mine, <i>Ros</i> a +moor, <i>Men</i> a stone, <i>B[=a]l</i> a mine, <i>Bos</i> is a corruption of +<i>Bod</i> and is sometimes reduced to <i>Bo</i>; <i>Car</i> stands for +<i>Caer</i> a fortress; <i>Dun</i> has the same signification. <i>Burn</i> +stands for <i>Bron</i> a hill, <i>Camborne</i> should be <i>Cambron</i>, the +crooked hill; <i>Cara</i> is <i>Carreg</i> a rock, and this is often +found cut down to <i>Car</i>; <i>Carn</i> is a cairn or heap of stones +or mass of rock; <i>Enys</i> or <i>Innis</i> an island or peninsula. +<i>Fenter</i> occurring in many combinations is <i>fenten</i> a well or +spring; <i>Goon</i> is the Welsh <i>Waun</i> a grassy down; <i>Hal</i> is +a moor, <i>Parc</i> an enclosure, <i>Dinas</i> a chieftain's castle, <i>Lis</i> +a court of justice.</p> + +<p>It is possible that certain river names may derive from +the original tongue of the earliest race. Some seem to be +more akin to Goidelic than Brythonic dialect, as <i>Fal</i> +(Gaelic <i>foill</i>, slow), and <i>Fowey</i> (Gaelic <i>fobhaidh</i>, swift); +but there are not sufficient of these to assure us that the +Goidels preceded the Brythons in Cornwall.</p> + +<p>In East Cornwall there must have been a considerable +influx of Saxon settlers, for there we light upon such +names of places as are compounded with <i>ton</i> the home-farm, +<i>worth</i> and <i>worthy</i> a fortified settlement, <i>stoke</i>, <i>stow</i>, +<i>sto</i> a stockade, an earthwork surmounted by a defence of +posts; <i>ham</i> a meadow by the waterside. In West Cornwall +such names are few.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus30.jpg" alt="Miners: Camborne" /><a name="illus30" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Miners: Camborne</p> + +<p>The people are courteous and kindly, and very independent. +In South Africa, whither many thousand miners +have migrated, they are not popular, and are fain to +<span class="pagenum">[70]</span> +disguise whence they come by pretending to hail from +Furness. The reason is that the Cornish cling together +and do not care to associate with others, and that they +lack that breadth of sympathy which makes men give up +their time and devote their energies to the common good. +The Cornish miner cares nothing for the country and for +those among whom he has placed himself, if only in three +<span class="pagenum">[71]</span> +years he may have made enough money to return home +to his wife and children. He does not go out to settle, +and this explains the lack of interest he has in what +interests and concerns the colony.</p> + +<p>The Cornish are a broad-shouldered race, above the +average in stature, and it is stated that west country +regiments, when drawn up on parade, cover a greater +space of ground than would those of other counties, the +numbers being equal.</p> + +<p>The census of 1901 gives as the population of the +administrative county 322,334 persons, of whom 149,937 +were males and 172,397 were females. There had been +an increase in the number of males since 1891, and a +decrease in the number of females. Of inhabited houses +there were 72,660. The population of Cornwall in 1801 +was 192,281, and it went on increasing steadily to 1861, +but from that date it has been as steadily on the decrease. +In military barracks there were 629 officers and men, in +naval barracks 90, and on H.M. ships in home waters +2053; in workhouses 1308, in prison 75.</p> + +<p>In 1901 there were 21,335 marriages, 88,636 births, +and 55,790 deaths. There were 6434 wives whose husbands +were absent, either at sea or mining in South Africa +or South America. In agriculture 23,671 were engaged, in +fishing 3734, in mining 13,426; in building and carpentering +9667. Of the 149,937 males enumerated in the +county of Cornwall, 128,184 were natives of the county, +8007 had come from Devonshire, and there were resident +in Cornwall 976 foreigners. Of blind there were 447, of +deaf and dumb 163, of lunatics 798, of imbeciles 516. +<span class="pagenum">[72]</span></p> + +<p>Whereas the number of people to the square mile in +England is 558, that in Cornwall is only 230.</p> + +<p>It must, however, be born in mind that the Administrative +County and the Geographical County are not +coextensive. Thus, parts of the Registration County of +Cornwall are in the Administrative County of Devon, +such are Broadwood Widger, Northcott, North Petherwin, +St Giles in the Heath, Virginstow and Werrington, with +a total population of 2460 persons; and on the other +hand parts of the Administrative County of Cornwall are +in the Registration County of Devon; these are Calstock +and North Tamerton with a population of 6203 persons.</p> + +<p>Thus the population and acreage in 1901 in the +Registration County would be, population 318,591, acreage +886,384, but in the Geographical or Administrative County +the population would be in the same year 322,334 and +the acreage 868,208.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap14" id="chap14"></a>14. Agriculture—Main Cultivations. Stock.</h2> + + +<p>The lack of hot sunshine makes Cornwall an unsuitable +county for cereals, but the mildness of the climate +and the rainfall render it on the other hand favourable for +dairy produce and for stock.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus31.jpg" alt="First and Last House" /><a name="illus31" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">"First and Last House", Land's End</p> + +<p>A recent writer, Mr W.H. Hudson, in his book on +the Land's End, thus describes a Cornish farm. He speaks +of the neighbourhood of Penrith, but the description applies +to many other parts of the Duchy, though not to East +Cornwall, where it is scarcely applicable at all, and is +<span class="pagenum">[73]</span> +precisely the part where there exists least of the Celtic and +most of the English element. "Life on these small farms +is incredibly rough. One may guess what it is like from +the outward aspect of such places. Each, it is true, has its +own individual character, but they are all pretty much +alike in their dreary, naked, and almost squalid appearance. +Each, too, has its own ancient Cornish name, some of them +very fine and pretty, but you are tempted to rename them +in your own mind Desolation Farm, Dreary Farm, Stony +Farm, etc. The farmhouse is a small, low place, and +invariably built of granite, with no garden, or bush, or +flower about it. The one I stayed at was a couple of +centuries old, but no one had ever thought of growing +anything, even a marigold, to soften its bare, harsh aspect. +<span class="pagenum">[74]</span> +The house itself could hardly be distinguished from the +outhouses clustered around it. Several times on coming +back to the house in a hurry, and not exercising proper +care, I found I had made for a wrong door, and got into +the cow-house or pig-house, or a shed of some sort, instead +of into the human habitation. The pigs and fowls did +not come in, but were otherwise free to go where they +liked. The rooms were very low; my hair, when I stood +erect, just brushed the beams; but the living room or +kitchen was spacious for so small a house, and had the +wide old open fireplace still so common in this part of +the country. Any other form of fireplace would not be +suitable where the fuel consists of furze and turf."</p> + +<p>But it must be allowed that the large landed proprietors +have everywhere built commodious, though almost +invariably ugly, new farmhouses.</p> + +<p>Considering the vast extent of grass land there is in +Cornwall, and the amount of butter, cream, and milk +derived therefrom, it has become more and more clear to +thinking farmers that the pasture is becoming exhausted, its +feeding powers worn out, and that they must replenish the +soil with the lime and phosphates that have been taken +out of it to nourish and rear the cattle. The consequence +is, that of late years the more intelligent farmers are +largely employing artificial, i.e. chemical manures, and +the results have been most satisfactory. You cannot eat +your cake and have it. If you take so much annually +out of the ground you must put in an equivalent annually, +or you exhaust the soil; and animal manure is +not sufficient. In the country a great deal of turf and +<span class="pagenum">[75]</span> +furze is burnt, where there is proximity to the moors. +The writer just quoted says: "in some parts of Cornwall +they have good peat, called 'pudding turves,' which +makes a hot and comparatively lasting fire. In the +Land's End district they have only the turf taken from +the surface, which makes the poorest of all fires, but it +has to serve. But to make a blaze and get any warmth +furze was burnt. In a few moments the dry stuff would +ignite and burn with a tremendous hissing and crackling, +the flames springing up to a height of seven or eight feet +in the vast hollow chimney. For a minute or two the +whole big room would be almost too hot, and lit up as +by a flash of lightning. Then the roaring flames would +sink and vanish, leaving nothing but a bed of grey ashes, +jewelled with innumerable crimson and yellow sparks, +rapidly diminishing."</p> + +<p>The total acreage under crops and grass in 1908 was +608,691; of these 356,497 acres were arable land, the +rest, 252,194 acres, permanent grass: 17,120 acres grew +wheat, 30,696 barley, and 66,033 oats; 4441 acres grew +potatoes, 15,271 turnips and swedes, 11,528 mangold, +8059 rape, and 1658 small fruit. Of small fruit culture +just over 621 acres were devoted to strawberries, nearly 276 +to raspberries and nearly 553 to currants and gooseberries. +Apples were grown on 4865 acres, cherries on 199, plums +on 182.</p> + +<p>The number of horses used for agricultural purposes +was 25,706. The total of horses, colts and unbroken, +was 34,821. Of cattle there were 219,890, and of these +59,298 were cows in milk. The total number of sheep +<span class="pagenum">[76]</span> +was 410,055, and that of pigs 104,813. Of mountain and +heath land used for grazing there were 71,438 acres. In +Cornwall there are 9249 acres of coppice and 22,197 of +other woods, but no more than 981 of plantations. While +548,787 acres are tended by tenants, only 59,904 acres +are occupied by the owners. Whereas in Surrey the percentage +of those occupying their own land is 33 per cent., +that in Cornwall is 9·7, in Devon 10·9, and in Hampshire +24·4.</p> + +<p>In Cornwall, in 1908, the number of agricultural +holders above one acre but not exceeding five was 2859; +of those above five and not exceeding 50, there were 6810. +Of those above 50 and not exceeding 300 acres there were +3682, but of those holding more than 300 acres there +were but 118, whereas in Essex there were 564, in +Suffolk 540, in Hampshire 595, in Wiltshire 660 and +in Northumberland 731.</p> + +<p>Of late years, especially in the Scilly Isles, flower +gardening, the growth of narcissus, jonquils, daffodils, and +various sorts of lilies, also of violets, anemones, and +marguerites, has been carried on with great success, and +the produce is carried by steamer and train to London +and other large towns.</p> + +<p>During six months in the year, when and where the +flower culture prevails, it forms the staple of conversation +in parsonage, manor house, farm, and cottage. From +January until May men, women, and children are +directly or indirectly engrossed in this one labour. The +bulbs are moved at least once in three or four years. +Left longer, they decrease in size, and become weakly; +<span class="pagenum">[77]</span> +the flowers also degenerate. A suitable manure is at +hand, the kelp washed up by the sea costing nothing but +the labour of gathering and transporting.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus32.jpg" alt="Flower Farming" /><a name="illus32" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Flower Farming, Scilly</p> + +<p>Anyone standing in a field which is in full bloom and +waiting to be picked over, would think that the men +<span class="pagenum">[78]</span> +have a hopeless task to face, if they purpose gathering all +their flowers. But they move down the beds swiftly, +snapping the stems, and throwing the flowers into big +baskets, which are carried off to the homestead as they +fill, and in an incredibly short time the beds are thinned. +When the baskets are brought into the farmhouse they +are emptied, and if the weather has been wet and stormy +the flowers are packed roughly into pots and pans of +every description, and set on shelves to dry off and assume +their proper colour. If the weather has been fine this +preliminary toilet is dispensed with, and the girls and +women bunch and tie at once. Twelve stems go to a +bunch always, and the aim is to arrange the flowers so +that they shall present a compact lozenge shape, crisp and +tight. Varieties are never mixed when tied, the bunches +are passed on to another department, where the uneven +stems are sliced off, and the flowers set in water to await +packing.</p> + +<p>Packing the flowers is a serious business. The boxes +are lined with paper, little pillows are made for the +flowers to rest upon, and then the bunches are deftly laid, +so many this way, so many that, and a few in the centre, +and behold, stems are altogether hidden, and only a mass +of bloom fills the box. The end papers are turned in, a +ticket placed on the top, declaring the variety of flower +and the number of bunches; the cover is nailed down, +and the operation is complete. +<span class="pagenum">[79]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap15" id="chap15"></a>15. Industries and Manufactures.</h2> + + +<p>Cornwall is too far from the coalfields to be a manufacturing +county on a large scale. There are, however, +some few industries and manufactures carried on in +Cornwall. The wonderful wireless telegraphy installation +which Mr Marconi has established at Poldhu does not, +perhaps, strictly speaking, come under this head, but it +would be impossible to omit mention of it and of the +great services it daily renders to vessels crossing the +Atlantic.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus33.jpg" alt="Poldhu Hotel and Marconi Station" /><a name="illus33" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Poldhu Hotel and the Marconi Station</p> + +<p>A considerable industry is in the making of casks, +mainly for the exportation of pilchards. Woollen manufacture +<span class="pagenum">[80]</span> +is carried on in a small way, also the construction +of mining and other machinery. Shipbuilding occupies +about 870 men. Some brick-making is done, but not to +any considerable extent. The real employments supplying +the vast majority of the people with bread are mining and +quarrying, and agriculture and horticulture.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap16" id="chap16"></a>16. Minerals and Mining.</h2> + + +<p>The authentic history of tin-mining in Cornwall +begins with the year 1156. It is not mentioned in +Domesday, and probably the Conqueror was as ignorant +that tin was to be found there as were the Romans. In +the year above given the tin mines are mentioned in the +Pipe Rolls. In 1198 appears a letter from the Warden of +the Stannaries to the Justiciar. In 1156 most of the tin +was raised on Dartmoor, but the output now began to +rise rapidly. In 1201 King John issued a charter to the +Stannaries. In 1305 the Cornish Stannaries were in part +dissociated from those in Devon.</p> + +<p>As already stated, in the beds of the valleys running +down from the central ridge are deposits of tin, brought +there from the lodes degraded by weather and flood in the +central spinal ridge. The specific gravity of the tin ore +is 6.8, and as the water rolled away from the heights, it +deposited the tin that it had brought away with it. +"The ores of tin," wrote Pryce in 1776, "are shode and +stream ... scattered to some distance from the parent lode, +and consisting of pebbly and smoothly angular stones of +<span class="pagenum">[81]</span> +various sizes, from half an ounce to some pounds in +weight. Stream tin is the same as shode but smaller in +size and arenaceous."</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus34.jpg" alt="King Edward Mine" /><a name="illus34" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">King Edward Mine, Camborne</p> + +<p>Polwhele describes an early stream work disclosed +about a century ago. The ore was of the purest kind and +contained two-thirds metal. The pebbles from which the +metal was extracted were in size from sand-like grains to +that of a small egg. The depth of the primeval bed was +20 ft. This appeared to have been worked at a remote +period, and before iron tools were employed, as large pickaxes +of oak, holm, and box were found there. But archaeological +research at the period when he wrote was carried +on in such a haphazard way that we cannot trust the +reports then made, and it is quite possible that the workings +were comparatively late, possibly of Mediaeval times. +<span class="pagenum">[82]</span></p> + +<p>All the early work was in stream tin. The Cornish +tin had this disadvantage—that it was not pure like the +Dartmoor tin, but was so associated with sulphur that +after smelting it had to undergo a second process, and that +a delicate one. It had to be "roasted," to get rid of the +sulphur, for only thus could the tin be made available. +Associated with sulphur it is brittle. We may well doubt +whether in early times the double process was understood. +Moreover, we know that when we have the first notices +of tin in the west, it was Dartmoor and not Cornwall +which rendered the largest supply.</p> + +<p>Shaft-mining did not come in before 1450, when the +stream tin was exhausted. The use of the adit cannot +be traced back beyond the beginning of the seventeenth +century. The only way of draining the mines was by +rag and chain pumps, each consisting of an endless +chain, broadened at intervals by leathern bindings, to fit +snugly into a pipe from 12 to 22 ft. long, worked by a +windlass at the surface. To drain a mine of great depth +a series of these pumps was necessary.</p> + +<p>When hydraulic draining-engines were first employed +is not known, but even so late as the close of the eighteenth +century some mines were drained by the rag and chain +pump worked by 36 men.</p> + +<p>Up to the sixteenth century, wooden shovels and picks +are known to have been employed, and shovels were +merely iron-shod. There is in the British Museum a +MS. calendar of Haroldstone in S. Wales, of the early +sixteenth century, in which are representations of the +works of the months, and in it the labourers in the +<span class="pagenum">[83]</span> +fields are shown as using wooden spades shod with +metal.</p> + +<p>German mining was carried on upon better principles +than the English, and Sir Francis Godolphin sent for an +experienced German engineer to instruct the miners of +Godolphin and Tregonning in the superior systems employed +in Saxony. It was then only that the hydraulic +stamps were introduced.</p> + +<p>In 1742 one steam-engine only was found in the +county; but speedily after came a great advance. Savery +and Newcomen brought in their steam pump; that of +Newcomen was introduced at Chasewater in 1777.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding that the methods of descent into the +mines by a series of long ladders had been superseded by +the man-engine, first introduced in 1842, it was a long +time before the old ladders at different successive stages +were abandoned.</p> + +<p>Owing to the introduction of tin from the Straits +Settlements, where it is found in the condition of stream +tin and can be easily worked, the tin mining in Cornwall, +necessitating real mining and the following of lodes, has +proved unremunerative and has been abandoned, and now +but few mines are worked for the metal. Another cause has +fatally affected Cornish mining—the fraudulent practice of +the promoters of the mines. It was no uncommon practice +for the "captains," when a rich lode was struck, to cover it +up, and follow false lodes, till the investors in the venture +lost heart and refused to advance more money, when the +captains would carry on the work in the real lode, if they +could raise the capital, but this they often failed to do, +<span class="pagenum">[84]</span> +the mine having fallen into discredit, or the water having +broken in.</p> + +<p>But if tin mining be practically dead in Cornwall, +another industry has risen with leaps and bounds. It is +that of the china-clay and china-stone, employed in the +manufacture of porcelain, in the sizing of paper and of +cotton materials, in the manufacture of alum, etc. The +glazed paper so largely employed in our illustrated papers +is made up largely with china-clay. Some years ago the +Italian government employed this paper for its official +documents, but found that after a few years under the +influence of damp weather the records had dissolved into +a lump of clay.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus35.jpg" alt="China Clay Quarries" /><a name="illus35" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">China Clay Quarries</p> + +<p>China-clay consists of decomposed felspar, quartz and +<span class="pagenum">[85]</span> +white mica. In 1817 the amount shipped for manufacturing +pottery was comparatively small, but of late +years it has grown, and employs over 3000 persons. The +china-clay is the same as the Chinese <i>Kaolin</i>; its value +was discovered by a Plymouth Quaker, Mr Cookworthy, +in 1745.</p> + +<p>Porcelain was introduced into Europe from the East +in 1518, when it acquired the name of China. For a +long time it was supposed that the kaolin or fine white +clay of which it is composed, was found only in the +Celestial Empire, and specimens of this brought to Europe +fetched a high price. At the beginning of the eighteenth +century it was discovered in Saxony in an odd way. A +merchant named Schnerr, being on a journey, was struck +with the whiteness of some clay near Schneeburg, and +collecting some of it used it for powdering his wig. It +succeeded, but had this disadvantage, that wigs dressed +with this new powder were very heavy. An apothecary +named Bötcher noticed the increased weight of the wig, +analysed the powder, and discovered that it was identical +with Chinese kaolin. He began to make Dresden China +in 1709, and the process was carried on with the greatest +secrecy, the exportation of the earth being forbidden under +heavy penalties.</p> + +<p>In 1748 Cookworthy discovered kaolin on Tregonning +Hill, more was found at Boconnoc, and Cookworthy and +Thomas Pett began to make china in 1768. At present +St Austell is the great seat of this industry, and the produce +is shipped at Charlestown and Polmear. +<span class="pagenum">[86]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus36.jpg" alt="Delabole Slate Quarries" /><a name="illus36" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Delabole Slate Quarries</p> + +<p>The important slate-quarries of the Duchy, of which +<span class="pagenum">[87]</span> +the Delabole quarry is the most renowned, have already +been mentioned.</p> + +<p>At Calstock and Gunnislake a few years ago there +were numerous miners engaged in the manufacture of +arsenic from the waste product of the abandoned copper +mines. But now this has become an extinct industry.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus37.jpg" alt="Shipping Slate, Port Gavin" /><a name="illus37" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Shipping Slate, Port Gavin</p> + +<p>Wulfram or tungsten, a metal used as an alloy for +hardening steel, was also a waste product from the tin +mines, but it is now utilised. At St Ives, pitchblende is +now being worked for radium. +<span class="pagenum">[88]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap17" id="chap17"></a>17. Fisheries.</h2> + + +<p>If mining be a decayed industry in Cornwall, that of +fishing shows no diminution. In an old book of natural +history published in 1776, the principal fishery of pilchards +is described. "Pilchards appear in vast shoals off +the Cornish coasts about the middle of July, and disappear +at the beginning of winter; though a few of them sometimes +return again after Christmas. The fishing employs +a great many men on the sea, and men, women, and +children on land, in salting, pressing, washing, and cleaning; +in making boats, nets, ropes, casks; and all the +tradesmen depending on their construction and sale. The +usual quantities exported each year, for ten years, from +1746 to 1756 inclusive, on the average is as follows: +Fowey has exported 1732 hogsheads annually; Falmouth +14,631; Penzance and Mounts Bay 12,149; St Ives +1282; in all amounting to 29,795 hogsheads." And the +same writer thus describes the fish. "The pilchard +greatly resembles the herring, but differs from it in some +particulars; it is a third less, and the body is proportionably +broader: it has a black spot near the upper corner of +the gills, and the belly is not so sharp. It has no teeth, +either in the jaws, the tongue, or the palate." It is now +held that the pilchard is identical with the sardine, but in +a different stage of growth.</p> + +<p>The pilchards are taken generally from the middle of +August to the middle of September, when large "schools" +are seen coming up the Channel. Each fishing station +<span class="pagenum">[89]</span> +generally has two or more companies or clubs of twenty +or thirty men; each company owning various boats and +generally two of the gigantic seines employed, which cost +£250 or more. These nets are about 250 fathoms or +more long and about 15 fathoms deep, and three boats go +to each seine. The first boat, which is also the largest, +is called the seine-boat, as it carries the net and seven men +in it; the next is termed the "vollier," or "cock-boat," +and carries another seine, called the tuck-seine, which is +100 fathoms long and 18 deep, this boat also carries seven +men; the third boat is called the "lurker," and contains +three or four men, and in this boat is the master.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus38.jpg" alt="Pilchard Boats, Mevagissey" /><a name="illus38" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Pilchard Boats, Mevagissey</p> + +<p>The pilchards were at one time supposed to come +from the Polar Sea, but it has now been ascertained that +<span class="pagenum">[90]</span> +the main body retires for the winter into deep water to +the westward of the Scilly Isles. About the middle of +spring they quit the deep seas and begin to consort in +small shoals which gradually increase to the end of July +or the beginning of August, when they combine in one +mighty host and begin their migration eastward. They +strike the land a little north of Cape Cornwall, where they +break up into two portions, one following the north coast +of Cornwall, the other the south.</p> + +<p>When the shoal is approaching, men and boys who +have been lying on the cliffs doing nothing start into +activity and rush to the boats. The gulls may be seen +hovering over the advancing army, and a change appears +in the colour of the water. At once the "huers," as the +signallers are called, get out their signals—a ball at the +end of a stick—and proceed to direct the pursuing boats +according to the movements of the school.</p> + +<p>The seine-boat leads the way followed by the vollier, +and the crew of the foremost boat pass a warp, that is, +throw a rope, which is fixed to the end of the seine on +board the vollier, and then shoot the net overboard, which, +having leaden weights at bottom, sinks, while the top is +buoyed up with corks. The seine-boat is rowed in a +circular course round where the fish are "stoiting" or +jumping, and when they have reached the vollier, the fish +are enclosed. They then join the two ends of the seine +together with a cord to prevent the fish from breaking +out, and whilst this is being done a man is engaged in +frightening the fish away from the still open end by means +of a stone fastened to a rope. When the two ends of the +<span class="pagenum">[91]</span> +net are laced together, grapes, i.e. grapples, are let down to +keep the net expanded and steady till the fish have been +taken up. This latter process is called "tucking the seine." +The boat with the tuck-seine on board passes the warp of +that seine to one of the other boats and then shoots this +net within the big seine. It is then drawn up to the +edge of the water, when it is seen to be one quivering +mass of silver. The fish are now taken or dipped out +with baskets into the boats. When the boats are filled, if +more fish remain in the large seine, it is left in the water, +till by successive tuckings all the fish have been removed. +In addition to seining large numbers of pilchards are taken +in drift nets.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus39.jpg" alt="The Huers' House, Newquay" /><a name="illus39" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The Huers' House, Newquay</p> + +<p>Formerly pilchards were smoked, and went by the +<span class="pagenum">[92]</span> +name of <i>fumados</i>, which name has been corrupted into +"fair maids." A not over-complimentary saying in Cornwall +is that "pilchards and women when they are bad are +very bad, and when good are only middling." Pilchards +constitute an important article of food to the poorer classes +on the coast, but doubtless the Cornishmen get very tired +of them as an article of diet. Large quantities are exported +to Spain and Italy. Some are made into "sardines" in oil +in the local factories.</p> + +<p>A peculiarity of the county is that ecclesiastical dues +in the nature of tithes are levied on the persons employed +in the pilchard fisheries.</p> + +<p>The number of hogsheads packed for export every +year varies considerably, but the yearly produce averages +from 20,000 to 30,000 hogsheads. In certain years the +amount has reached nearly 50,000. In 1901 the fishery +found employment for 3734 men, in 1905 in Penzance +alone for 1275. Beside pilchards, there are mackerel, +hake, cod, etc.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus40.jpg" alt="Pilchard Boats, St Ives Harbour" /><a name="illus40" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Pilchard Boats, St Ives Harbour</p> + +<p>The quantity of fish taken, other than mackerel, +<span class="pagenum">[93]</span> +herrings, pilchards, and sprats in 1905 at Looe was 5841 +cwt., at Mevagissey 4893, at Falmouth 3213, at Porthleven +6132, at Newlyn 37,468. Of mackerel, herrings +and sprats, at Looe 10,403 cwt., at Mevagissey 40,236, at +Falmouth 5991, at Porthleven 26,945, at Newlyn 493,956. +The total value of the fish taken in the year at Looe was +£5377, at Mevagissey £13,818, at Falmouth £17,718, at +Porthleven £11,454, at Newlyn £232,466.</p> + +<p>Turning to the north coast, in the first category were +taken at Sennen 1074 cwt., at St Ives 2431, at Padstow +<span class="pagenum">[94]</span> +4051. In the second category, at Sennen 605 cwt., at +St Ives 80,557, at Padstow but 318, at Port Isaac 2526.</p> + +<p>The value of the fish taken at Sennen was £2065, at +St Ives £39,941, at Padstow £6660, at Port Isaac £2169.</p> + + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus41.jpg" alt="Landing Fish, Newlyn" /><a name="illus41" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Landing Fish, Newlyn</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap18" id="chap18"></a>18. Shipping and Trade.</h2> + + +<p>There are no great seaports in Cornwall. Falmouth +was by far the most considerable when the packet service +ran from it to the West Indies, Portugal, and New York. +The station was established in 1688. In 1705 five +packet-boats left it for the West Indies and in 1709 as +many for Lisbon; not till 1755 did two sail for New +York, but the number was increased to four in 1763. +<span class="pagenum">[95]</span></p> + +<p>In 1782, eighteen packets sailed from Falmouth for +the West Indies and America. Up to 1823 the packets +had sailed under contract between the General Post +Office and the commanders, who received their appointment +from that establishment and engaged to provide, +equip, and man a proper ship for the purpose, for a sum +of £1800 per annum. These vessels were from 180 to +210 tons register. But after 1823 the above system was +changed, for the service was placed under the orders of +the Admiralty instead of the Post Office; and as vessels +were wanted they were supplied by men-of-war.</p> + + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus42.jpg" alt="The St Vincent's Anchor, Falmouth" /><a name="illus42" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The St Vincent's Anchor, Falmouth</p> + +<p>In 1827 thirty-nine packets left Falmouth; in 1834 +six steamers were employed. But in 1850 Falmouth +ceased altogether to be a packet station. This was +<span class="pagenum">[96]</span> +greatly to the detriment of the town. It still remains as +a port of call for outward-bound sailing-ships. Further +up the river is Penryn, which was a town and a port +before Falmouth was thought of. The silting up of the +river does not now allow other than small boats and barges +to reach it.</p> + +<p>Letters came down on mail coaches, from London +through Exeter, by Launceston to Bodmin, and thence +to Truro and Falmouth. The rate appointed for the +coaches, including stoppages, was bound to be thirteen +miles an hour. The mail spun along night and day, +without a halt save for change of horses. The stages on +an average were eight miles, and the horses, four-in-hand, +went at a gallop. The guard wore the royal livery of +scarlet, and always had his blunderbus handy, in case of +an attempt by highwaymen to hold up his coach.</p> + +<p>Charlestown and Polmear in St Austell Bay are only +important for the trade in china-clay exported thence; +Marazion and Penzance, and St Mary's in Scilly only for +the conveyance of flowers to London. But these ports +and such as are on the north coast are convenient as +mouths through which Welsh coal can be imported to +feed the cellars and fires in the peninsula. Pilchards also +are exported from these little ports to Italy and Spain; +and anciently a considerable trade was carried on between +them and France, Spain, and Portugal in wine, and a +considerable amount of wine and spirits entered the county +through small creeks and coves, into which smugglers +conveyed their kegs. The gentry and taverners were +kept well supplied with liquor that never paid duty. +<span class="pagenum">[97]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap19" id="chap19"></a>19. History.</h2> + + +<p>The original population of Cornwall was probably +Iberic, of the same primitive race as the dark-haired +population of Ireland, before the island was invaded and +subjugated by the Celts.</p> + +<p>The branch of the Celts in Britain and Cornwall was +Brythonic, and there is nothing certain to show that the +Goidels were in Cornwall before the Brythons. It is +true that some few river names, and again inscriptions +are Irish, but these latter pertain to the settlement in +Cornwall of Irish expelled from Ossory and Wicklow in +the fifth century.</p> + +<p>Popularly the dark hair and dusky complexions of +some of the Cornish is attributed to Spaniards wrecked +from the Armada. But no Spanish wreck came on shore +in Cornwall. The first loss the Armada sustained was +east of Plymouth. On its way back to Spain none of the +vessels came near Cornwall. Several were wrecked on +the coast of Ireland and their crews massacred to a man +by the natives.</p> + +<p>Posidonius travelled after <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 123 and visited Spain, +where he collected a variety of information on points of +geography and natural history, and after spending thirty +days at Gades returned to Italy. He learned among other +things something about the collection of tin in Bolerium, +a name afterwards appropriated by Ptolemy to the Land's +End. He says: "The inhabitants of that promontory of +Britain which is called Bolerium are very fond of strangers, +<span class="pagenum">[98]</span> +and from their intercourse with foreign merchants are +civilised in their manner of life. They prepare the tin, +working very skilfully the earth in which it is produced. +The ground is rocky, but it contains earthy veins, the +produce of which is ground down, smelted, and purified. +They make the metal up into slabs shaped like knuckle-bones, +and carry it to a certain island lying in front of +Britain called Ictis. During the ebb of the tide the +intervening space is left dry, and to this place they carry +over abundance of tin in their waggons.... Here then, the +merchants buy the tin from the natives, and carry it over +to Gaul; and after travelling overland for about thirty +days, they finally bring their loads on pack-horses to the +outlet of the Rhone." It is very doubtful whether +Posidonius ever visited Britain. What he relates is doubtless +due to information received by him, either at Gades +or at Massilia.</p> + +<p>According to Timaeus, the contemporary of Pytheas, +the isle of Vectis was six days sail from Britain, "in an +inward direction." Vectis, there can be little doubt, is +the Isle of Wight, formerly connected with the mainland +by a ridge of chalk since broken through by the waves. +Ancient mariners coasted, and those who came to Britain +for tin followed the Gallic shore till they could see the +white cliffs of Dover, when they crossed, and coasted +down channel to the Isle of Wight.</p> + +<p>There is no evidence that the Phoenicians ever visited +Cornwall. Nor has a single relic of Phoenician art or +coin been found in Cornwall. The traders with Britain +were the Veneti of the Morbihan, in Brittany. Moreover, +<span class="pagenum">[99]</span> +as General Pitt Rivers has pointed out, bronze celts +(axe heads), which have been unearthed in Cornwall, are +never found in any parts where the Phoenicians have been.</p> + +<p>It has been assumed with much confidence that Cornwall +or the Scilly Isles must have been the Cassiterides of +the ancients. But even this is doubtful. The Cassiterides +were described as lying west of Spain, and the description +applies to the Azores; it may have been due to ignorance +or design that they were represented as islands prolific in +tin.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus43.jpg" alt="The Nine Maidens, St Columb Major" /><a name="illus43" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The Nine Maidens, St Columb Major</p> + +<p>That tin was worked in Cornwall from a very early +period can hardly be questioned, in 1823 at Carnon a +deer-horn pick was discovered 40 ft. below the surface, +but as a crucifix was also found there 30 ft. below the +<span class="pagenum">[100]</span> +surface, this only shows how the creeks have had their +floors turned over and silted up.</p> + +<p>Though tin was exported from Cornwall, bronze was +not manufactured there till a comparatively late period. +Bronze came from the East, and the great centre whence +radiated the trade in bronze weapons was the basin of +the Po.</p> + +<p>What seems to be abundantly clear is that the export +of tin from Britain had come to an end by the first century +of the present era. Caesar, on invading Britain, heard +nothing about it, and when Britain was finally conquered, +the Romans who worked the lead mines in the Mendips, +and gold and copper in Wales, totally neglected Cornwall, +holding it to be worthless. They never settled there, +only traversed it to the Land's End, leaving behind them +a couple of square camps, some coins, few and far between, +and some Samian ware; but this shows little more than +that a traffic went on between the Britons of Cornwall +and the Romans and Romano-British beyond Exeter. +The fact that the Romans had no idea that tin was to be +found in the peninsula shows that the mining for it had +ceased there for some time previous. The Brythonic +Celts are held to have invaded Britain <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 300; and it is +probable that from that date the industry in tin mining +carried on by the Ivernian natives declined rapidly and +expired, leaving not a tradition behind.</p> + +<p>It is noteworthy that the Dumnonii were behind the +British peoples in the east. They had no coinage, whereas +those in the south-east had theirs, copied from a stater of +Philip of Macedon. No Greek coins had reached the +<span class="pagenum">[101]</span> +Dumnonii, and they had consequently none to copy, +however clumsily.</p> + +<p>In the battle of Deorham, 577, the Britons were +defeated with great slaughter, and the West Welsh of +Devon and Cornwall were cut off from further communication +with their brethren of Wales. The Saxons steadily +advanced, but for long the Parrett was the boundary. In +823 a battle was fought between the Saxons and Britons +at Gavulford, now Galford, a point on the old road from +Exeter to the west, where the hills draw together, and +whence it is commanded by a huge camp. The Britons +now called the Danes to their aid, and twelve years +afterwards a battle was fought on Hingeston Down, above +Calstock, in which Egbert was victorious. This was in +835. Hitherto the Britons had occupied one portion of +Exeter, but Athelstan, after defeating the Cornish King +Howell, not only expelled them from the city but fixed +the Tamar as their boundary. Then he passed through +Cornwall, and even visited the Scilly Isles. The Count +of Poher in Brittany, of whose son Alan Barbetorte was +the godson of Athelstan, fled from Brittany with a crowd +of his countrymen from the devastations of the Northmen, +and Athelstan gave them homes in England. It is +probable that he planted some in the Lizard, and others +about Camborne, for we find there church dedications to +distinctively Breton saints, and we know, moreover, that +the fugitive Bretons brought with them the bones of their +patron saints. As they spoke the same tongue as the +Cornish, it would be natural for Athelstan to send them +there. +<span class="pagenum">[102]</span></p> + +<p>In 981, the Danish pirates plundered the monastery +of St Petrock, and in 997 ravaged the territories of their +old allies from one end of Cornwall to the other with fire +and sword. Shortly before this, in 993, Olaf Tryggvason +of Norway, with Sweyn Forkbeard of Denmark, after +having attacked London, devastated the east coast, burnt +Sandwich and Ipswich, and stormed Bamborough, then +harried the Scottish coast, the Western Isles, the Isle of +Man, and Ireland, where "he burned far and wide, +wherever inhabited." He then came to the Scilly Isles, +where he put into Tresco harbour. There the monks of +the abbey founded by Athelstan so impressed him, that he +consented to be baptized.</p> + +<p>In 1068, the county was plundered by Godwin and +Edmund, sons of Harold, after a battle in Somersetshire, +and on their way back to Ireland.</p> + +<p>In 1322, the craze for going on pilgrimage took +possession of Cornish men, women, and children, and +they set off for the Holy Land, whence few returned.</p> + +<p>In 1497, in consequence of the dissatisfaction occasioned +by the levy of a burdensome tax, the commoners of +Cornwall, headed by Thomas Flamank, a gentleman, and +Michael Joseph, a Bodmin blacksmith, rose in rebellion. +Having prevailed on Lord Audley to be their general, +they marched as far as to Blackheath in Kent, where they +were defeated with much slaughter by Lord Daubeny. +In the same year Perkin Warbeck landed, according to +some at Whitesand Bay, near the Land's End, according +to others in St Ives' Bay, and marching to Bodmin, found +the Cornish ripe for a new rebellion. At the head of +<span class="pagenum">[103]</span> +3000 men he marched to Exeter, but was unable to take +it. He made his way to Taunton, where, despairing of +success, he deserted his army and fled, but was taken and +executed.</p> + +<p>In 1548, another rebellion broke out occasioned by +the changes in religion, which the Cornish resented. Their +leader was Hugh Arundell, Governor of St Michael's +Mount. They proceeded to besiege Exeter, but although +the city was sorely distressed for want of provisions it +held out till relieved, and in a battle fought at Woodbury, +they were defeated with immense slaughter. Cornwall +remained quiet in the reign of Elizabeth, save that it sent +out whole fleets of privateers to prey on the Spanish +traders and treasure vessels.</p> + +<p>The Armada was off the Lizard on the 29th to 30th +July, 1588. An English fishing-boat was hanging near +them, counting their numbers. They gave chase, but +the boat shot away down wind and disappeared. It +carried the news to Drake at Plymouth, who at once +prepared to sail forth.</p> + +<p>In the Civil War, Cornwall was almost unanimous +on the side of the King. Lord Robartes, however, threw +in his lot with the Parliament. On the side of the +King were Sir Bevil Grenville, Sir Ralph Hopton, +Godolphin, Slanning, and Trevanion. A battle was +fought at Boconnoc on January 19, 1643, in which +General Ruthven and the Roundheads were defeated. +Another battle in which the Royalists were successful +was at Stamford Hill above Stratton, May 16, 1643.</p> + +<p>Charles I visited Cornwall, and was so impressed by +<span class="pagenum">[104]</span> +the devotion and loyalty of the people that he addressed +to them a letter of recognition, copies of which may be +seen in some of the churches. Prince Charles spent a +great part of the autumn and winter of 1645 in Cornwall; +on March 2, 1645-6, he embarked at Pendennis Castle +for the Scilly Isles, where he "was much straitened for +provisions." He quitted Scilly on April 16, and landed +next day in Jersey, whence he sailed for France. Queen +Henrietta Maria had left Pendennis for France in July, +1644.</p> + +<p>Cornwall took no active part in the Revolution; in +the European War, it sent forth many gallant sailors, +among whom in the first place may be reckoned Admiral +Boscawen, "old Dreadnought." But since the Civil War +the history of the Duchy has been mainly one of social +and industrial advance. The principal events stirring the +community were the introduction of steam-engines to +pump the mines, affrays with smugglers, and the excitement +and unlimited bribery and corruption at elections in +the rotten boroughs till these latter were swept away by +the Reform Bill of 1832. About these rotten boroughs +a few words must be said. The old boroughs that existed +before the reign of Edward VI were Truro, Helston, +Lostwithiel, Bodmin, Liskeard, and Launceston. But the +advisers of Edward VI, conscious of insecure tenure of the +throne and doubting whether the country was willing to +go with them in their sweeping alterations in religion, and +desirous of counteracting the growing importance of the +House of Commons, considered that their object would be +best attained by conferring the right of returning members +<span class="pagenum">[105]</span> +of Parliament upon the obscure dependent villages of +Cornwall. Accordingly Saltash, Camelford, West Looe, +Bossiney, Grampound, Penryn, Mitchell, and Newport +were elevated into boroughs, each returning two members +to Parliament.</p> + + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus44.jpg" alt="St Mawes, Falmouth Harbour" /><a name="illus44" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">St Mawes, Falmouth Harbour</p> + +<p>Under Queen Mary, St Ives received the same privileges, +and under Elizabeth six more were made boroughs +with the same rights, St Germans, St Mawes, Tregony, +East Looe, Fowey, and Callington. Some of these places, +as Mitchell, Tregony, and St Mawes, were mere hamlets. +They all soon passed away from the direct control of the +Crown and fell into the hands of borough mongers who +returned what members they liked, by gross bribery, +expecting to be repaid with Baronetcies and with lucrative +sinecures by the Ministry of the day they supported. +<span class="pagenum">[106]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap20" id="chap20"></a>20. Antiquities: Prehistoric, Roman, Celtic, Saxon.</h2> + + +<p>The first men who inhabited our island were the +merest savages. They had no knowledge of the use of +metals, they could not make pottery; they had not domesticated +the cow, the sheep, or the dog. They used +extremely rude flint weapons and tools. They were +contemporary with the cave bear, the woolly rhinoceros, +the mammoth, and the cave hyæna, all which beasts then +lived in Britain; and at that time the temperature was +much colder than at present. This period is called the +Palaeolithic, or Old Stone Age.</p> + +<p>The next race that entered our island found the +temperature much as it is now. They were comparatively +civilised. They still used flint implements, but of a very +superior type, and far better finished than those of the +earlier race. Moreover they were agricultural, grew corn, +had cows and sheep and dogs, and made pottery. This +race it was which erected the so-called cromlechs, stone +circles, and tall upright stones. The remains of their +villages of circular stone huts are very numerous on the +moors. This period is called the Neolithic, or New +Stone Age.</p> + +<p>After a time bronze was introduced, by trade, and +was at first as valuable as gold is to us. But after a while +it became much more common. Its introduction marked +the commencement of the Bronze Age.</p> + +<p>To the Bronze Age succeeded the Iron Age. This +<span class="pagenum">[107]</span> +metal was introduced by the conquering Celts, of whom +there existed two branches, one called Brythonic, of which +were the Britons, now represented by the Welsh, the +Cornish, the Cumbrians, and the Bretons of Brittany; the +other called Goidelic, and now represented by the Irish, +the natives of the Isle of Man, and the Scots. The Celts +with their iron weapons speedily overcame and enslaved +the earlier race, usually called Ivernian. The latter was +dusky and dark haired, but the Celt probably had yellow +or red hair, blue or grey eyes, and a fair complexion.</p> + +<p>No satisfactory evidence has been produced that Palaeolithic +man occupied Cornwall, but the traces of Neolithic +man at the stage when he became acquainted with the +use of bronze are abundant. By him were erected the +rude stone monuments that are scattered over the county, +and he had his favourite sites for trimming flints into +scrapers and arrow-heads. One of the most notable of +these was the shore of Dozmare Pool.</p> + +<p>Of the rude stone monuments the dolmen or cromlech +is sepulchral, the dolmen when large having been a +tribal or family mausoleum, and the kistvaen, which is +far smaller, contained the bones of one individual alone. +The dolmen is composed of three or more upright stones +sustaining one or more coverers, and was often buried +under a cairn. The finest in Cornwall are Zennor and +Lanyon Quoits, the Trethevy Stone, and Chûn Quoit.</p> + +<p>Stone circles are numerous. Their purpose has not +been determined, but on Dartmoor, where they have been +examined, they exhibit a floor strewn with charcoal. +They have, moreover, usually numerous cairns or barrows +<span class="pagenum">[108]</span> +associated with them. The finest sacred circle is that of +the Stripple Stones on the Bodmin moors, but this has of +late years been sadly mutilated. The "Merry Maidens," +in St Buryan's parish near Penzance, is a magnificent +circle. Other circles are those of Boscawen-ûn, Dauns +Môr, Wendron, the Trippet Stones on Blisland moor, +Fernacre and Stannon on the St Breward moors, the +Hurlers near the Cheesewring, the Nine Maidens in +St Columb Major, Duloe, etc.</p> + + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus45.jpg" alt="Lanyon Cromlech" /><a name="illus45" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Lanyon Cromlech</p> + +<p>Menhirs or "longstones" are upright monoliths, +probably set up in memorial of the dead. Of these there +are many in Cornwall but none of great height. The +Pipers in St Buryan are the loftiest, 13 ft. 6 in. and 15 ft. +<span class="pagenum">[109]</span></p> + + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus46.jpg" alt="The Merry Maidens, St Buryan" /><a name="illus46" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The Merry Maidens, St Burylan</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[110]</span></p> + +<p>Of stone alignments Cornwall is almost wholly barren, +but one at St Breock can be claimed with confidence. This +is the more remarkable as they abound on Dartmoor. +But the reason probably is that the stones have been carried +off to serve as gateposts, and in some cases are embedded +in walls of fields. They were probably erected in commemoration +of the dead and are always associated with +cairns and interments.</p> + +<p>Subterranean chambers, constructed of upright stones +with coverers, were possibly store chambers for grain. +The best preserved is at Trelowarren.</p> + +<p>Upright holed stones are met with in Madron, +St Buryan, St Just, Sancreed, Constantine, Wendron, etc. +Their purport is unknown.</p> + +<p>Very curious are the clusters of communal huts at +Chysauster, Bosporthennis, etc. They probably belong to +the Iron Age, whereas the hut circles scattered over a hill +side, or within a pound, pertained to the early Bronze Age.</p> + +<p>Arrow heads, lance heads and scrapers have been found +in tolerable abundance on the Bodmin moors, on Carn +Brea, at St Agnes, etc., and celts (axe heads) of greenstone +and diorite have occurred, but not with great frequency.</p> + +<p>At Harlyn Bay has been found a cemetery of the +Iron Age, all the bodies in slate cists, crouching. In the +cairns and kistvaens (stone coffins) on the other hand the +bodies have been burnt. Numerous urns of the well-determined +Bronze Age type have been recovered from +cairns.</p> + +<p>The camps of stone and earth in Cornwall are very +numerous. They all—or nearly all—date back to the +<span class="pagenum">[111]</span> +same period of the early bronze, but may have been used +by later peoples. They are of two descriptions, the cliff +castles, where a headland is protected by banks and dykes +on the side of the mainland, and circular or oval camps +crowning heights, with concentric rings of circumvallation. +Where the hill top does not admit of the circular form +the earthworks adapt themselves to the contour of the hill.</p> + +<p>Roman remains are conspicuously rare in Cornwall. +Some fragments of Samian ware, coins, and a bronze and +silver metal vessel have been found in Bossens, a camp in +St Erth, and the head of an ensign at St Just. A second +Roman camp is Tregeare, near Bodmin. An inscribed +milestone of the time of Constantine the Great is in the +churchyard of St Hilary. The metal bowl at Bossens was +inscribed by Aelius Modestus to the god Mars.</p> + +<p>Of the Celtic period, gold lunettes have been found at +Harlyn; a gold cup near the Cheesewring in a cairn along +with a corroded iron weapon; a portion of a gold armlet +at Penzance and of a brooch at the Lizard.</p> + +<p>Of Saxon remains the principal are the hoard at +Trewhiddle, a silver chalice, finger-ring, pins, etc. Coins +have been found; among them one of Ethelred, struck at +Launceston. On the altar slab formerly at Treslothan, +now supporting a sundial at Pendarves, is inscribed the +Saxon name of Ægured; and an old bell at Lanhydrock +has on it "Æthelstan sumpta an[ima] sua." These are +scanty remains, fewer even than the Roman.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus47.jpg" alt="St Cleer: Monument to Doniert" /><a name="illus47" title=""></a></p> + +<p class="caption">St Cleer: Monument to Doniert, son of Caradoc, died A.D. 872</p> + +<p>Cornwall is, however, rich in Romano-British inscribed +stones, dating from the eighth century down. At St Cleer +is the memorial stone to Doniert (Dungarth) son of +<span class="pagenum">[112]</span> +Caradoc. In Lewannick churchyard are stones with inscriptions +not only in Latin characters but also with +Ogams at the angle, showing that the Irish had settled +there. Some of the inscribed stones are certainly earlier +than the eighth century, to which cautious antiquaries +have brought them down.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus48.jpg" alt="Mawgan Cross" /><a name="illus48" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Mawgan Cross</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[113]</span> +Crosses of granite are common, and some are very +early, certainly earlier than Athelstan's passage through +Cornwall in 938. But others are much later. They vary +considerably in size and in shape. Some were used as +preaching stations before churches had been built, but +others marked the tracks over the moors, and some +may have indicated boundaries. Some are excessively +<span class="pagenum">[114]</span> +rude, some have the figure of the Saviour carved upon +them, and these are comparatively late. Others—as that +of St Neot—have elaborate scroll-work on them like those +in South Wales.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus49.jpg" alt="St Buryan's Cross" /><a name="illus49" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">St Buryan's Cross</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap21" id="chap21"></a>21. Architecture: (<i>a</i>) Ecclesiastical.</h2> + + +<p>A preliminary word on the various styles of English +architecture is necessary before we consider the churches +and other important buildings of our county.</p> + +<p>Pre-Norman or, as it is usually, though with no great +certainty termed, Saxon building in England, was the +work of early craftsmen with an imperfect knowledge of +stone construction, who commonly used rough rubble +<span class="pagenum">[115]</span> +walls, no buttresses, small semicircular or triangular +arches, and square towers with what is termed "long-and-short +work" at the quoins or corners. It survives +almost solely in portions of small churches.</p> + +<p>The Norman Conquest started a widespread building +of massive churches and castles in the continental style +called Romanesque, which in England has got the name +of "Norman". They had walls of great thickness, semicircular +vaults, round-headed doors and windows, and +massive square towers.</p> + +<p>From 1150 to 1200 the building became lighter, the +arches pointed, and there was perfected the science of +vaulting, by which the weight is brought upon piers and +buttresses. This method of building, the "Gothic," +originated from the endeavour to cover the widest and +loftiest areas with the greatest economy of stone. The +first English Gothic, called "Early English," from about +1180 to 1250, is characterised by slender piers (commonly +of marble), lofty pointed vaults, and long, narrow, lancet-headed +windows. After 1250 the windows became +broader, divided up, and ornamented by patterns of +tracery, while in the vault the ribs were multiplied. The +greatest elegance of English Gothic was reached from +1260 to 1290, at which date English sculpture was at +its highest, and art in painting, coloured glass making, +and general craftsmanship at its zenith.</p> + +<p>After 1300 the structure of stone buildings began to +be overlaid with ornament, the window tracery and vault +ribs were of intricate patterns, the pinnacles and spires +loaded with crocket and ornament. This later style is +<span class="pagenum">[116]</span> +known as "Decorated," and came to an end with the +Black Death, which stopped all building for a time.</p> + +<p>With the changed conditions of life the type of +building changed. With curious uniformity and quickness +the style called "Perpendicular"—which is unknown +abroad—developed after 1360 in all parts of England and +lasted with scarcely any change up to 1520. As its name +implies, it is characterised by the perpendicular arrangement +of the tracery and panels on walls and in windows, +and it is also distinguished by the flattened arches and the +square hoods over the doorways, by the elaborate vault-traceries +(especially fan-vaulting), and by the use of flat +roofs and towers without spires.</p> + +<p>The mediaeval styles in England ended with the +dissolution of the monasteries (1530-1540), for the +Reformation checked the building of churches. There +succeeded the building of manor-houses, in which the +style called "Tudor" arose—distinguished by flat-headed +windows, level ceilings, and panelled rooms. The ornaments +of classic style were introduced under the influences +of Renaissance sculpture and distinguish the "Jacobean" +style, so called after James I. About this time the professional +architect arose. Hitherto, building had been +entirely in the hands of the builder and the craftsman.</p> + +<p>Cornwall does not furnish stately and richly adorned +churches as does Devonshire, and even more so, Somersetshire. +This is due to the intractable material available, +granite, which unlike that of Brittany did not lend itself +to rich sculpture. Only the Elvan stone, already described, +could be worked with delicacy, and this is easily +<span class="pagenum">[117]</span> +corroded by the weather, and the Catacluse stone is +black. The beautiful Polyphant stone of Lewannick does +not seem to have been largely employed. Although so +close to Launceston, when the church there was reconstructed +by Sir Henry Trecarrel, in the reign of +Henry VIII, he employed only granite, which was +sculptured with infinite labour, and with poor effect.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus50.jpg" alt="Buried Church, Perranporth" /><a name="illus50" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Buried Church, Perranporth</p> + +<p>The most ancient churches in Cornwall were probably +exceedingly rude. Only two of the earliest remain and +these are in ruins, Perranporth and St Gothien, very +much resembling churches of the most primitive period in +Ireland.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus51.jpg" alt="Norman Doorway, St Germans Church" /><a name="illus51" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Norman Doorway, St Germans Church</p> + +<p>There are some important remains of Norman +architecture, notably the west front and part of the nave +<span class="pagenum">[118]</span> +of St Germans, some portion of Blisland, the south door +of Kilkhampton, the westernmost arches of Morwenstow, +Tintagel, and some tympana of doorways with +rude sculpture. In many of the churches the early fonts +remain. Originally baptisms took place in tanks or barrels +sunk in the earth; then, when adult baptisms ceased, +<span class="pagenum">[119]</span> +square or circular troughs were placed on the floor, and +later were raised on pedestals; and not infrequently the +pedestal is an addition, at a later date, to the basin of the +font itself.</p> + +<p>Of the Early English period, the remains are scanty. +St Anthony in Roseland is the most perfect example in +Cornwall.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus52.jpg" alt="Tympanum, Egloskerry Church" /><a name="illus52" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Tympanum, Egloskerry Church</p> + +<p>Of the Middle Pointed, or Decorated period, are +Padstow, St Columb Major, Sheviock, Lostwithiel—where +the very peculiar spire is singularly beautiful and foreign +in character—and portions in Lanteglos by Fowey, and +St Ive near Liskcard.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus53.jpg" alt="Lanteglos Church" /><a name="illus53" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Lanteglos Church</p> + +<p>But, as in Devonshire, so in Cornwall, there was an +outburst of church building in the Third Pointed or Perpendicular +<span class="pagenum">[120]</span> +period. Then only—since the early sculptors +of the crosses—did architects and carvers attack the granite, +and most of the churches were then rebuilt. The finest +are St Kewe, Mawgan in Pyder with a beautiful tower, +Probus with a richly sculptured tower of the reign of +Elizabeth, St Austell—also with a good tower, the carvings +in Elvan—St Neot, Stratton, and Buryan. One remarkable +feature is in the porches, where tracery of an ogival +character is introduced in the arch. The Rev. W. Haslam, +in the <i>Transactions of the Exeter Dioc. Arch. Society</i>, says +of the Cornish churches that they "are low, and somewhat +flat in the pitch of the roof, and without buttresses +to break the long plain horizontal lines which are so +conspicuous. All these are features of the Perpendicular +<span class="pagenum">[121]</span> +style, I admit, but not to the extent to which they are +carried in Cornwall. Besides this, the general form of a +Cornish church is plain; externally, the plan of the larger +ones is a parallelogram, divided into three low ridges of +roof: there is a porch on the south side; this is the only +break in the horizontal line I allude to. The smaller +churches have generally but one aisle, and these have a +transept also, but sometimes two transepts; but even these +do not relieve the plainness of the exterior. This is not +the character of one church, or two, or three; but more +or less of all. It is their character, and I attribute it to +the boisterous nature of the climate in that narrow county, +exposed as it is, with very little shelter, to violent storms +from the sea on both sides."</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus54.jpg" alt="Launceston Church" /><a name="illus54" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Launceston Church</p> +<p><span class="pagenum">[122]</span></p> + +<p>No great elaboration of tracery was possible with +granite, and the architects abandoned the thought of +making the churches attractive externally, devoting their +attention to the internal decoration. The appearance of +a large Cornish church now is that it is a long low shed, +lacking in height and dignity. But the architect divided +it in two by the screen, and thus brought it into proportion. +Unfortunately, however, in very few have the +beautiful rood-screens been left, which were generally +spared in the Devonshire churches. Those of Cornwall +in no way fell short of those in Devon, but the Puritans +first of all, and then the barbarians of the Georgian period +swept them away, and the churches in the nineteenth +century fell into the hands of local architects who left +them "naked, swept"—but not "garnished." They were, +let us hope, the last of the Cornish wreckers. A few, but +only a few screens remain.</p> + +<p>In the interior of the Cornish churches the chief +feature is the absence of a chancel arch, which is almost +universal. The arch was unnecessary when the roodloft +extended upwards and was backed by a painted board. +In some of the churches there are interesting bench ends. +At St Austell, the miners' tools are represented on them; +on some rabbits running in and out of their burrows are +figured, and seagulls are frequent.</p> + +<p>In painted glass Cornwall is not rich, except in the +15 windows of St Neot near Liskeard, and in that in the +north aisle, and the fragments in the south aisle of St Kewe.</p> + +<p>The church towers in Cornwall are for the most part +square without buttresses, and with four pinnacles. One +<span class="pagenum">[123]</span> +peculiarity of these pinnacles is that they are often cut on +a curve to lean outwards, probably to mitigate the stiffness +of effect.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus55.jpg" alt="Landewednack Church" /><a name="illus55" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Landewednack Church</p> + +<p>A few words must be devoted to the new Cathedral +at Truro erected from the designs of the late Mr J.L. +Pearson in a French Gothic style of architecture. It +consists of a choir of five bays, with retrochoir, transepts, +nave with north and south aisles, baptistery and south-west +porch, richly sculptured; a central and two western +<span class="pagenum">[124]</span> +towers. Attached to the south side of the choir is the +fine old parish church of St Mary, or a portion of it. +There is an elaborately sculptured reredos over the altar. +Notwithstanding its faults Truro Cathedral is a notable +monument of the enthusiasm and self-denial of the Cornish +people.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus56.jpg" alt="Dupath Well, Callington" /><a name="illus56" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Dupath Well, Callington</p> + +<p>The Holy Wells of Cornwall are a distinct feature of +the county. In all Celtic lands, previous to the introduction +<span class="pagenum">[125]</span> +of Christianity, there was a great veneration for wells, +and the early missionaries took advantage of this to turn +them into baptisteries, or in other ways to consecrate them. +Holy wells abound in Cornwall, but they have not always +much architectural character. That of Dupath, by +Liskeard, is the finest, but there is also another that is +fine at St Cleer, and one most interesting and unique at +St Clether, where, indeed, there are two, for the water +from the first flows into a chapel and is carried under the +old stone altar, to decant into another well outside the +chapel. The Madron Holy Well was for long famous +for cures.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap22" id="chap22"></a>22. Architecture: (<i>b</i>) Military—Castles.</h2> + + +<p>Before the Norman Conquest there were no masonry +built castles in Cornwall, only stockades of wood surmounting +earthworks or piled up masses of stone +uncemented. The usual Saxon <i>Burh</i> was a mound, +surmounted by a structure of timber, reached by a bridge +or ladder from a base-court that was encompassed by +moat and mound and stockade. The Norman system +of building a castle was to erect a round or square keep, +a massive structure of stone, on the mound that had +formerly been surmounted by a wooden structure, and to +surround the base-court with a stone wall. Within this +were erected the necessary domestic buildings. Very +generally the entrance to the court was strongly defended +by a second tower. The style of castle was greatly +<span class="pagenum">[126]</span> +altered in the reign of Edward I but of such Edwardian +castles there are no examples in Cornwall, save the poor +fragment of Tintagel. The Normans built a castle at +Launceston, and there the circular keep standing on a +lofty tump of rock, artificially shaped, is of their construction, +but the ruined buildings below, with the +gateways and walls of the base-court, are later.</p> + +<p>The castle of Trematon also consists of a "motte" +surmounted by a circular keep, and a base-court with +square tower at the entrance, with an archway.</p> + +<p>Tintagel Castle is reduced to a miserable ruin, part +on the mainland, part on the islet, with the intervening +portion blocked up by fallen rocks, forming a narrow +isthmus. The deep chasm that formerly separated the +two portions of the castle was anciently spanned by a +drawbridge. The work appears to be of the thirteenth +century. On the island are the remains of a chapel with +its altar slab still in place. Tintagel became a residence +of the Earls of Cornwall, and in 1245, Richard son of +King John received in it his nephew David, Prince of +Wales. It was subsequently used occasionally as a prison. +In the reign of Elizabeth, that penurious queen, deeming +the expense of keeping it up too onerous, allowed it to +fall into ruin.</p> + +<p>St Michael's Mount was crowned with a castle and +a church. The oldest portion is the central tower, of the +fourteenth or fifteenth century; other portions are later +additions, and much very bad modern work has tended +to its sad disfigurement. Edward the Confessor planted a +monastery on the rock, and granted it to Mont S. Michel +<span class="pagenum">[127]</span> +in Normandy; at the Conquest it was made over to Robert +Earl of Mortain, but the Benedictines of Mont S. Michel +continued to have a cell there with a prior. It was consequently +at once a religious house and a military post.</p> + +<p>Restormel, near Lostwithiel, consists of a keep crowning +a hill, with a gatehouse on the west, a projecting +tower on the E.N.E., and a chapel. It is not older than +the reign of Henry III and was the stronghold of the +Cardinhams and then of the Traceys, from whom it +passed to the Earls of Cornwall. The circular keep is +only 30 ft. high. The castle was already ruinous in the +time of the Civil War, but it was put in repair and held +by the Parliamentary forces till taken by Grenville.</p> + +<p>St Mawes is a small but perfect castle, erected by +Henry VIII.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus57.jpg" alt="St Mawes Castle" /><a name="illus57" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">St Mawes Castle</p> +<p><span class="pagenum">[128]</span></p> + +<p>Pendennis Castle was another erection of Henry VIII, +on the site of earlier fortifications. The circular tower +dates from his time, but it was added to considerably in +the reign of Elizabeth. In 1644 Pendennis afforded shelter +to Queen Henrietta Maria, when embarking for France, +and hither came Prince Charles in 1646 on his way to +Scilly.</p> + +<p>Helsborough, near Michaelstow, was a fortress belonging +to the Earls of Cornwall, but it shows no tokens +of having ever been walled with masonry. The only +structural remains to be seen are the ruins in the midst +of a Perpendicular chapel.</p> + +<p>On Carn Brea is a tower, another on Roche rock; and +St Catherine's Castle, erected by order of Henry VIII, +defended the entrance to the harbour of Fowey.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap23" id="chap23"></a>23. Architecture: (<i>c</i>) Domestic and Monastic.</h2> + + +<p>In England generally castles belonged only to the +Crown or to great nobles, and no gentleman was suffered +to castellate or embattle his walls without a special licence +from the Crown. In Cornwall all the castles pertained to +the Crown or the Duke of Cornwall, and private persons +had to content themselves with purely domestic mansions. +Till the reign of Elizabeth the dining-hall reaching to the +roof was the most conspicuous feature, and opening out +of it was the ladies' bower, a small oak-panelled room. +The inconvenience arising from a house being cut in half +<span class="pagenum">[129]</span> +by the hall led in the reign of Elizabeth to an alteration, +and the halls were ceiled over, so that the upper portion +could be used for bedrooms and passage. Before her reign +the usual form of a house was quadrangular, that is to say +a court surrounded by buildings entered by a gate, with +the hall and principal portions of the house opposite the +entrance gate. But in the reign of Elizabeth it became +the fashion to form the house in the shape of the letter E. +In her father's reign it often had the shape of the letter H +with the open ends closed by slight walls.</p> + +<p>Cornwall possesses very few stately houses. At the +close of the seventeenth century a schoolmaster at Trebartha +filled a folio with sketches of the ancient manor-houses of +the neighbourhood of the Tamar; picturesque old mansions +of the reigns of Henry VIII and Elizabeth. Nearly every +one has disappeared. The squirearchy of Cornwall, flush +of money, through tin, pulled down their old residences and +built mansions in the Georgian period, totally devoid of +interest. Of the old houses few remain except as farm +houses. They were, however, never so magnificent as +those in the counties where bricks and easily dressed stone +existed. But still there remain Cothele, unaltered, the +beautiful house of Lord Mount Edgcumbe on the Tamar; +Basil, the manor-house of the Trevelyans, much mutilated +by the barbarous hand of a modern architect; Trecarrel, +near Launceston, an old Tudor mansion with a noble hall, +never completed; Place, near Padstow, formerly Prideaux +Castle, the Elizabethan residence of the Prideaux Brunes, +very stately, and with a dining room rich in carved oak; +Lanherne, built in 1580, a small manor-house of the +<span class="pagenum">[130]</span> +Arundells and now a convent; Lanhydrock, built by the +first Lord Roberts—they called themselves later Robartes; +Place House, Fowey, with rich sculpture; Trerice, the +old seat of the Arundells; Tregudick with its Elizabethan +hall; Penheale, once the seat of the Speccots, in Egloskerry; +Tonacombe, an unaltered house of the reign of Henry VII, +in Morwenstow; Penfound in Poundstock, small but +charming; and Lanreath, with a carved oak parlour, the +ancient house of the Grylls family. There are others, +now farmhouses, and only spared on that account, deserted +when the squires moved elsewhere and did not pull down +their ancestral residences.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus58.jpg" alt="Cothele" /><a name="illus58" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Cothele</p> + +<p>A monastic building consisted of a church, with a +<span class="pagenum">[131]</span> +cloister court adjoining, about which were the dormitories, +a library, and a refectory or room in which all had their +meals in common. There would be often two courts, +one outer, the other with the cloister about it in which the +monks mainly lived and in the centre of which was the +monastic graveyard. The garden of pot herbs and herbs +for medicinal purposes was an essential feature of all +monastic settlements, as was also the stewpond or ponds +for fish. The necessity under which the monks lay of +being near water, both for their fish and for sanitary +purposes and for drinking, led to all monastic establishments +lying low down in valleys by running streams.</p> + +<p>Of monastic remains there are few. At Launceston +the foundations of St John's Priory have been laid bare. +At Glasney in Penryn a few walls alone represent what +was once a stately priory. Of the great house at Bodmin +hardly a wall stands, but some remains of the sanatorium +exist at Lavethan. At Lanivet are the remains of +St Benet's Monastery, till 1859 the most picturesque +and best preserved of the monastic buildings in Cornwall, +except St Michael's Mount. An engraving of the remains +was published by Lysons in 1814, which shows the house +to have been beautifully situated, and as beautiful as its +situation demanded. At the date mentioned it was +mutilated and spoilt.</p> + +<p>Cornwall cannot boast picturesque cottages. Some +few remain that possess some charm, as the old Post-office +at Tintagel, some slate-hung dwellings in West Looe, the +Lugger Inn, Fowey, and the almshouses at St Germans. +There are as well some that call for an artist to use his +<span class="pagenum">[132]</span> +pencil at Saltash. But, on the whole, the county is poor +in the domestic architecture of farm and cottage, and +house fronts in the towns, with rare exceptions, are not of +any artistic character.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus59.jpg" alt="The Old Post Office, Tintagel" /><a name="illus59" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The Old Post Office, Tintagel</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap24" id="chap24"></a>24. Communications—Roads, Railways.</h2> + + +<p>The great road from London to Falmouth ran through +Launceston, Bodmin, and Truro, and was kept in good +order, and over it raced the mail coaches that conveyed +letters on to the packets at Falmouth. This was the +main artery of communication for more than a century, +till Falmouth was abandoned as a mail-packet station by +the Government. From 18 to 20 fine vessels performed +this service, carrying letters and papers to all parts of the +<span class="pagenum">[133]</span> +world, until the extension of railways caused the service +to be transferred to Southampton.</p> + +<p>Whether there were systematically constructed Roman +roads in Cornwall has been doubted. One curious ancient +road—the Giant's Hedge—is found near Lanreath, and +appears to have been a portion of a road raised on a bank +that started from a ferry over the Tamar and was carried +into the west of Cornwall. There was a road also that +came from Exeter and crossed the Tamar at Polson +Bridge and then turned north to Camelford. Another +ran past Stratton to the estuary of the Camel opposite +Padstow, where Romano-British remains have been found +on Bray Hill. But it is possible enough that these roads +were of British and not of Roman construction.</p> + +<p>In the Middle Ages little or nothing was done to keep +the roads in repair. Even in the eighteenth century all +that was thought necessary was to throw down a load +of boulders into the ruts, rake them in, and leave coach +and cart wheels to grind them up. But the roads were +taken in hand at the beginning of the nineteenth century, +and the turnpikes served to provide funds for keeping +them in order, while Macadam's invention of breaking the +stones before laying them on the roads assisted enormously +in facilitating transit along them.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus60.jpg" alt="A Cornish Stile" /><a name="illus60" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">A Cornish Stile</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[134]</span></p> +<p>The roads in Cornwall are now for the most part +excellent, metalled with elvan, and cyclists and motorists +can have little to complain of on that score.</p> + +<p>Two railway companies have penetrated the county; +the G.W.R. in the south crosses the Tamar by the +famous Saltash tubular bridge, and runs to Penzance, +<span class="pagenum">[135]</span> +by Truro. There is a branch to Bodmin, another to +Fowey, and another crosses the county to Newquay. +After reaching Truro, the line deserts the south, but sends +a branch down to Falmouth. It runs to Redruth and +Camborne and reaches the sea at Hayle. It sends a short +branch up to St Ives, but the main line turns south again +to end in a terminus at Penzance. The L. & S.W.R., +after sending out a branch to Bude, reaches Launceston, +and then supplies the dreary country from Launceston to +Camelford with communication. From Camelford it +runs to Wadebridge; and down the estuary to Padstow, a +branch to the south serving Bodmin.</p> + +<p>In addition to the branches already mentioned are +others to Looe and Helston.</p> + +<p>Penzance is reached from Paddington in 8½ hours and +Newquay in half-an-hour less.</p> + +<p>The L. & S.W.R. leaving Waterloo reaches Launceston +in 5½ hours, Bude in 6 hours, and Wadebridge +in under 7 hours. From Wadebridge coaches run to +Newquay.</p> + +<p>A steamer maintains communication with the Scilly +Isles from Penzance.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap25" id="chap25"></a>25. Administration and Divisions, Ancient and Modern.</h2> + +<p>Before the Conquest the divisions of the county were +probably those afterwards forming the old deaneries, and +followed the limits of the Celtic tribes under their several +<span class="pagenum">[136]</span> +chiefs. Of these there were eight:—East and West, +Kerrier, Penwith, Powder, Pyder, Trigg Major, and +Trigg Minor, but at the Conquest a redistribution was +made in hundreds. These were Conarton, Fawiton, +Pawton, Riatton, Stratton, Tibesta or Tibesterna, and +Winneton. There may have been an Anglo-Saxon +redistribution. But it was a rearrangement that did not +last, and never commended itself to the people, and it is +not easy now to ascertain what the limits were. Conarton +was Penwith. Perhaps Tibesta was Powder and Winneton +Kerrier. East and West composed one district of +Wyvelshire.</p> + +<p>Cornwall was first an Earldom, and then accordingly +a County, but when raised to be a Dukedom it became a +Duchy. It had two chief officers, the Earl and the Sheriff, +the latter appointed by the crown.</p> + +<p>The county was divided up into hundreds for administrative +purposes. Each hundred was supposed roughly +to contain a hundred free families. Each hundred had +its own court, and every township its assembly under the +reeve. But the tinners were under their own laws and +officers, and their court, called the Stannary Court, sat +formerly at Lostwithiel. Every manor also had its court.</p> + +<p>All the hundreds of Cornwall, except Penwith, from +time immemorial belonged to the Earls of Cornwall. The +hundreds and Petty Sessional Divisions are now coextensive, +and are as follows:—1. Hundred of East (Northern +Division). 2. Hundred of East (Southern Division). +3. Hundred of Kerrier. 4. Hundred of Lesnewth. +5. Hundred of Penwith. 6. Hundred of Powder, East. +<span class="pagenum">[137]</span> +7. Hundred of Pyder, West. 8. Hundred of Pyder, +East. 9. Hundred of Stratton. 10. Hundred of Trigg. +11. Hundred of West.</p> + +<p>Cornwall formerly returned four county members in +two divisions, but under the provisions of the "Redistribution +of Seats Act, 1885," it now returns six members +in six divisions. 1. The western or St Ives division. +2. The north-western or Camborne division. 3. The +Truro division. 4. The Mid or St Austell division. +5. The south-eastern or Bodmin division. 6. The north-eastern +or Launceston division. Under the provisions +of the above-mentioned Act, the boroughs of Bodmin, +Helston, Launceston, Liskeard, St Ives, and Truro were +deprived of independent representation and merged in the +county, and Penryn and Falmouth lost one member.</p> + +<p>In 1877 the diocese of Truro, taken from that of +Exeter, was formed, comprising the whole county of +Cornwall, together with the parishes of Broadwood-Widger, +Virginstow, Werrington, St Giles on the Heath, +and North Petherwin, which are in the county of Devon. +The Stannary Court is now at Truro, but its occupation +is almost gone.</p> + +<p>The Poor Law Unions are Bodmin, Camelford, +Falmouth, Helston, Launceston, Liskeard, Penzance, +St Austell, Redruth, St Columb, St Germans, Scilly Isles, +Stratton, and Truro.</p> + +<p>The County Council formed under the Local Government +Act of 1888 consists of a chairman, aldermen, and +councillors; but for the local government of the towns +and parishes another Act was passed in 1894, and new +<span class="pagenum">[138]</span> +names were given to the local bodies. In the large urban +parishes the chief authorities are now entitled District +Councils, while the smaller parishes have their Parish +Councils or only Parish Meetings.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus61.jpg" alt="The Old Guildhall and Pillory, Looe" /><a name="illus61" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">The Old Guildhall and Pillory, Looe</p> + +<p>The county is in the western circuit; the assize and +quarter sessions, which were formerly held at Launceston, +<span class="pagenum">[139]</span> +a most inconvenient place for the purpose, being at the +extreme limit of the county, are now held at Bodmin.</p> + +<p>In Cornwall there are 223 civil parishes and the +municipal boroughs are eleven, Bodmin, Falmouth, Helston, +Launceston, Liskeard, Lostwithiel, Penryn, Penzance, +Saltash, St Ives, and Truro.</p> + +<p>The civil parishes and those that are ecclesiastical are +not always conterminous. Of the latter there are 236. +There are two Archdeaconries, Cornwall and Bodmin, +and twelve deaneries, St Austell, Carnmarth, Kerrier, +Penwith, Powder, and Pydar in the Archdeaconry of +Cornwall, and Bodmin, East, Stratton, Trigg Major and +Minor, and West in that of Bodmin. There is a Bishop +at Truro and a suffragan who takes his title from +St Germans. +<span class="pagenum">[140]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap26" id="chap26"></a>26. Roll of Honour.</h2> + + +<p>It would, perhaps, be invidious to say that Cornwall +has produced men of more brilliant and varied achievements +than any other county in England, but she can +certainly show a very notable roll of honour. As might +be expected from her geographical position, aided by good +harbours, she has produced some great seamen who have +done gallant service for England. At the head of these +must come Sir Richard Grenville, hero of the <i>Revenge</i>, +whose action off the Azores in 1591 has rendered him +one of England's immortals. Trapped by the huge +Spanish fleet off Flores, Sir Richard had many of his crew +sick on shore, but declined to leave till they had been +brought on board. The <i>Revenge</i> engaged fifteen large +Spanish men-of-war and stood at bay from three in the +afternoon all through the night till the following morning, +when the last barrel of powder was spent. Ralegh told +of it, as did Gervase Markham in 1595, and Tennyson +nearly 300 years later in the stirring lines:—</p> + +<p> +"Ship after ship, the whole night long, their high-built galleons came,<br /> +Ship after ship, the whole night long, with her battle-thunder and flame;<br /> +Ship after ship, the whole night long, drew back with her dead and her shame.<br /> +For some were sunk and many were shattered, and so could fight us no more—<br /> +God of Battles, was ever a battle like this in the world before?"<br /></p> +<p><span class="pagenum">[141]</span> +His grandson, Sir Bevil Grenville, "the Mirror of +Chivalry," was a scarcely less notable warrior on land +and fell in the Royalist victory of Lansdowne near Bath +in 1643. Admiral Edward Boscawen, "Old Dreadnought," +third son of Viscount Falmouth, distinguished +himself at the taking of Cartagena and in the Cape +Breton expedition, but his most memorable deed was the +defeat of the French Toulon fleet in Lagos Bay in 1759. +Captain Bligh, noteworthy as the captain of the <i>Bounty</i>, +<span class="pagenum">[142]</span> +of which the mutiny is one of the most familiar tragedies +of the sea, was perhaps in great measure the author of his +own misfortunes, for he was a man of very overbearing +temper, but his journey of 3618 miles in an open boat +after having been set adrift with others by the mutineers +was a remarkable feat. The Pellew family has added +at least two names to the roll of distinguished sailors. +Edward Pellew, when in command of the <i>Nymphe</i>, +manned by Cornish miners, captured the French man-of-war +<i>Cléopâtre</i> under peculiarly gallant circumstances, the +first of a series of brilliant exploits which led to his being +created Baron Exmouth. Later, in 1816, he bombarded +Algiers, reduced the Dey to submission, and put an end +to the Barbary corsairs. His brother, Admiral Sir Isaac +Pellew, commanded the <i>Conqueror</i> at the battle of +Trafalgar.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus62.jpg" alt="Captain Bligh" /><a name="illus62" title=""></a></p> + +<p class="caption">Captain Bligh</p> + +<p>Cornwall being a land of mines has developed +machinery and furthered invention in this direction. The +most notable of the inventors she has produced is Richard +Trevithick, who first made the high-pressure engine, and +is still more remarkable as the early pioneer of motor +traffic, putting his road locomotive on the Camborne +highway on Christmas Day, 1801, and obtaining a speed +with it of 12 miles per hour. In 1812 he laid before the +Navy Board his invention for a screw propeller for ships, +only to meet with a refusal. Sir Goldsworthy Gurney, +born in 1793, also ran steam-motors on the roads until +they were forbidden by Act of Parliament, and the work +of a lifetime and his fortune of £30,000 vanished into +thin air. The oxy-hydrogen blowpipe and the steam-jet +<span class="pagenum">[143]</span> +were invented by him. The wreck of H.M.S. <i>Anson</i> on +Looe bar with the loss of over 100 lives in 1807 had a +great effect on one of the spectators, Henry Trengrouse, +a Helston cabinet-maker, who thereupon invented the +rocket life-saving apparatus and spent £3000—all his +means—in experiments and in vain endeavours to induce +Government to adopt the system. Another great benefactor +to mankind was Sir Humphry Davy, the son of a +poor gilder near Penzance. His safety-lamp he nobly +<span class="pagenum">[144]</span> +refused to patent lest the sphere of its usefulness should +be restricted, and he is fittingly honoured with a statue in +his native town.</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus63.jpg" alt="Sir Humphry Davy" /><a name="illus63" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Sir Humphry Davy</p> + +<p>More than one distinguished traveller finds place +among Cornish worthies. Richard Lander, the son of a +Truro innkeeper (1805-34), stands at the head of them. +He went with Clapperton to Sokoto and on his death +took up his work, tracing the mouth of the Niger on a +second expedition, and dying on a third at Fernando Po. +Peter Mundy, born about 1596 at "Penrin, a pretty +towne in Corne Wall," as he describes it, was one of the +most remarkable travellers that the West of England has +produced, whether in virtue of his long trading voyages to +the Far East, or of his continental wanderings, of which +he kept a not less careful record. James Silk Buckingham, +who died in 1855, wrote eighteen books of travel, but +was mainly noteworthy for his endeavours to do away +with the monopoly of the East India Company.</p> + +<p>Among statesmen must be noticed Sir John Eliot, +born at Port Eliot in 1592, and at one time friend of +George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, with whom he +later broke, and taking up a strong line in the Parliament +of 1628 against arbitrary taxation helped to force the +Petition of Right from Charles. He was ultimately +committed to the Tower, where he died three years later +in 1632. To give an adequate sketch of the life of +Sidney Godolphin would be to give the history of the +times of Charles II, James II, William of Orange and +Anne, with each and all of whom he was closely implicated. +An extraordinarily able financier, his character +<span class="pagenum">[145]</span> +was such as to permit him to serve either party indifferently. +"Sidney Godolphin," said Charles, "is never in the way +and never out of the way." Lord High Treasurer under +Queen Anne, he was made Earl of Godolphin, only to +be disgraced in 1710 and die shortly after.</p> + +<p>Samuel Drew, the "Cornish Metaphysician," who +was born at St Austell, had been a smuggler and a shoemaker +in his earlier days, but developed into a Wesleyan +preacher and became the author of an essay on the +Immortality of the Soul. Of more normal mould was +Humphrey Prideaux, born at Padstow in 1648, who +wrote a <i>Life of Mahomet</i>, and <i>The Old and New Testament +Connected</i>, which reached its 27th edition only a few +years ago. He became Dean of Norwich and died in +1724.</p> + +<p>Cornwall has produced several local antiquaries, as +the Rev. Richard Polwhele, who died in 1838; the +Rev. William Borlase, d. 1772; William Hals, the +historian of the Duchy; and William Sandys, who died +in 1874. She has had but few true poets, but the +Rev. Robert Stephen Hawker, though not actually born +in Cornwall, spent all his life there and may certainly +come under this heading. He became Vicar of Morwenstow +in 1834, and remained there till his death in 1875, +having during this time transformed his parishioners from +a set of lawless wreckers to a decent community. His +poems were almost all connected with Cornish subjects, +and one of the best known of them is that on Bishop +<span class="pagenum">[146]</span> +Trelawney's imprisonment—"A good sword and a trusty +sword," with the refrain—"And shall Trelawney die? +There's twenty thousand Cornishmen; Shall know the +reason why."</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus64.jpg" alt="John Opie" /><a name="illus64" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">John Opie</p> + +<p>"A wondrous Cornishman, who is carrying all before +him" is Sir Joshua Reynolds' description of John Opie +the painter, who was born the son of a poor carpenter +near Truro in 1761, became an R.A. and portrait-painter +of great note, and died in 1807. His second wife was +Amelia Opie the novelist, daughter of the Norwich +physician, Dr Alderson. Henry Bone, the enamellist, is +also of sufficient distinction to deserve mention here. +<span class="pagenum">[147]</span></p> + +<p>Of the astronomers of modern times few have attained +the eminence of John Couch Adams, the discoverer of +the planet Neptune, who was born at Laneast in 1819. +As a shepherd boy he loved to lie on his back and watch +the stars, and he at once devoted himself to the study of +astronomy when he was sent to school at Saltash. He +became Senior Wrangler at Cambridge in 1843, and soon +after taking his degree, being struck with irregularities in +the motion of Uranus, he made a series of calculations +and observations which resulted in the discovery of the +new planet, the French astronomer Leverrier having +simultaneously recorded its existence. A distinguished +geologist and one of the pioneers of scientific cave +exploration was William Pengelly, whose great work +was the thorough examination of Kent's Cavern near +Torquay, a labour which lasted from 1865 to 1880. +Last, but by no means least worthy of mention in our +list, must come Davies Gilbert, a great discerner of rising +genius, to which he was ever ready to lend help and +encouragement. The patron of Davy, Trevithick, Horn-*blower, +and Goldsworthy Gurney, he was himself a man +of remarkable and varied abilities, scientist, mathematician, +and antiquary, and President of the Royal Society. He +died in 1839. +<span class="pagenum">[148]</span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap27" id="chap27"></a>27. THE CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF CORNWALL.</h2> + + +<blockquote><p>(The figures in brackets after each name give the population in +1901 and those at the end of each section are references to +the pages in the text.)</p></blockquote> + + +<p><b>Bodmin</b> (5353), now held to be the county town. Formerly +there was a priory here, founded in 938. The church, the largest +in Cornwall, is Perpendicular, except the tower and a part of the +chancel, which are earlier. In it is the fine monument of Prior +Vyvyan (1533). Bodmin is a municipal borough, market, and +union town, and head of a county court district. The Assizes +are held here. The town is pleasantly situated nearly in the +centre of the county. A branch of the G.W.R. leads from +Bodmin Road station on the main line. The L. & S.W.R. has +also a branch to Bodmin from Wadebridge. The prison stands +about half a mile north-west of the town; and the County Lunatic +Asylum a little to the west. Bodmin has also a Hospital and +Dispensary, and Barracks for military. (pp. 9, 14, 18, 24, 67, +96, 102, 104, 111, 131, 132, 135, 137, 139.)</p> + +<p><b>Bude</b> (see Stratton).</p> + +<p><b>Callington</b> (1714), a small market town, formerly a parliamentary +borough returning two members. Callington is in the +ecclesiastical parish of North Hill, and the church is merely a +chapel of ease. It is in the Perpendicular style, and has the unusual +<span class="pagenum">[149]</span> +feature in Devon and Cornwall of having a clerestory. +The L. & S.W.R. has constructed a light railway from Beer Alston +to Callington and Calstock. (pp. 105, 124.)</p> + +<p><b>Calstock</b> (5874) is a large village and township. The +church is at a distance from the village or town. Gunnislake, +two miles north of Calstock, is in the parish. Both places have +declined in numbers and prosperity through the abandonment of +the mines in the neighbourhood. (pp. 15, 69, 72, 87, 101.)</p> + +<p><b>Camborne</b> (14,726), a market town with a station on the +main line of the G.W.R. It is a great seat of mining operations. +(pp. 38, 81, 101, 135, 137.)</p> + +<p><b>Camelford</b> (1384), a small market and union town, in a +bleak and wind-swept situation, consisting of one street. It is +the head of a county court district and magisterial division. It +is in the parish of Lanteglos, nearly two miles distant, and has not +in it even a chapel of ease. Camelford was an ancient borough +with mayor and corporation. (pp. 14, 105, 133, 135, 137.)</p> + +<p><b>Falmouth</b> (3207), a seaport, market, and union town and a +municipal borough. It is the head of a county court district. +Falmouth was incorporated by charter 1661. It has the advantage +of possessing one of the finest and most capacious +harbours in the country. As many as 350 to 400 sail have taken +refuge here in winter at various times. There are docks, +factories, and building yards. Of late an attempt has been made to +turn Falmouth into a winter resort for invalids, and the coast is +advertised as "The Cornish Riviera," but it is a Riviera without +the sun of the Mediterranean. (pp. 30, 31, 48, 66, 88, 92, 94, +95, 96, 132, 135, 137, 139.)</p> + +<p><b>Fowey</b> (2258), once a borough, is a market town and a +shipping port with a station on a branch of the G.W.R. The +church of St Finbar is a noble edifice in the Perpendicular style +but with portions on the north dating from 1336. Place House, +the seat of the Treffry family, is a beautiful, richly-sculptured +<span class="pagenum">[150]</span> +mansion of the reign of Henry VII. Fowey consists of one very +narrow street. The town was created a borough by Elizabeth, +returning two members, but was disfranchised in 1832. (pp. 49, +88, 105, 119, 128, 130, 131, 135.)</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus65.jpg" alt="Fowey" /><a name="illus65" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Fowey</p> +<p><span class="pagenum">[151]</span></p> + +<p><b>Grampound</b> (491) deserves mention only as having returned +two members to Parliament before the Reform Bill, and +as formerly a borough. (pp. 18, 105.)</p> + +<p><b>Helston</b> (3088) is a municipal borough, market, and union +town, and the resort of all who want to buy or sell in the Lizard +district. It was not formed into an ecclesiastical parish till 1845. +A branch of the G.W.R. reaches it. Below the town is the +beautiful Loe Pool. The principal streets form a cross, and have +a constant flow of water through them. (pp. 8, 104, 135, 137, 139, +143.)</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus66.jpg" alt="Helston" /><a name="illus66" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Helston from Bullock Lane</p> + +<p><b>Launceston</b> (14,310), the ancient capital, is a municipal +borough, market, and union town, and head of a county court +<span class="pagenum">[152]</span> +district. The town occupies a height, and above it towers the +ancient castle, but a portion of the town, Newport, lies in the +valley at the foot. Both the G.W.R. and the L. & S.W.R. have +stations at Launceston. The church of granite is richly sculptured +throughout; but in a debased Perpendicular style. It replaced an +older church of which the tower alone remains. (pp. 7, 15, 25, +67, 96, 104, 111, 117, 121, 126, 129, 131, 132, 135, 137, 139.)</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus67.jpg" alt="Launceston" /><a name="illus67" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Launceston</p> + +<p><b>Liskeard</b> (4945), a municipal borough, market, and union +town, head also of a county court district, with a station on the +G.W.R. Liskeard returned two members to Parliament till +disfranchised by the Redistribution Act of 1885. The church of +St Martin is the largest in the county next to that of Bodmin; it +is in the Perpendicular style but retains portions of earlier work. +Liskeard mainly flourishes on the granite quarries of the Cheesewring; +it did at one time flourish still more on the mines of tin and +copper in Caradon. (pp. 12, 18, 31, 104, 119, 122, 125, 137, 139.) +<span class="pagenum">[153]</span></p> + +<p><b>Looe</b> (2588) is composed of two towns, East Looe and West +Looe, separated by a creek and united by a long bridge. East +Looe was formerly a borough returning two members. It is the +terminus of a branch line of the G.W.R. There is a good tidal +harbour, to which vessels of large tonnage can be brought up for +the shipment of ore and granite, conveyed thither from Caradon +and the Cheesewring, and thence coal is conveyed to Liskeard +and its neighbourhood. The old town hall is a picturesque +building. West Looe was also originally a borough returning +two members. (pp. 31, 49, 50, 92, 105, 131, 135, 138, 143.)</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus68.jpg" alt="Looe" /><a name="illus68" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Looe</p> + +<p><b>Marazion</b> (1252) or Market Jew derives its name from a +Thursday market there held. In ancient times the place was +supported by the pilgrims resorting to St Michael's Mount. The +town was pillaged by the French in the reign of Henry VIII. +From Marazion St Michael's Mount is reached. At the base of +<span class="pagenum">[154]</span> +the Mount lies a fishing village of 38 houses, and a little harbour. +From the sea the hill rises to a height of 230 ft., the body of the +island is granite but its north base is of slate. The castle is the +property of Lord St Levan. Marazion is a station on the G.W.R. +(pp. 9, 44, 45, 96.)</p> + +<p><b>Mevagissey</b> (2088), a seaport town situated on a fine bay +six miles south of St Austell, the nearest railway station. The +natural harbour is safe and sheltered. A new harbour has been +constructed. The inhabitants depend almost wholly for subsistence +on the fishery of pilchards. (pp. 48, 93.)</p> + +<p><b>Newlyn</b> (1302) is not a town, it is an ecclesiastical parish +formed in 1848 out of the parishes of Paul and Madron. It has +a harbour, and is a seat of fishery. Many artists have been +attracted hither by the mildness of the climate and the picturesqueness +of the quaint old streets, and of the fisherfolk. (pp. 44, 93.)</p> + +<p><b>Newquay</b> (2935) is a new and rising sea-bathing and +holiday resort, to which run two branches of the G.W.R. It +possesses a beautiful stretch of sands, and is near some of the +finest coast scenery in Cornwall. (pp. 37, 135.)</p> + +<p><b>Padstow</b> (1566) is a quaint old seaport on the estuary of the Camel. It +has a fine church with a beautiful carved font. Above the town is +Prideaux Place, an Elizabethan mansion. The town lies in a valley and +consists mainly of one street. It is a market town, and is connected +with the L. & S.W.R. by a branch line. (pp. 7, 9, 13, 14, 34, 55, 56, +57, 67, 93, 94, 119, 129, 133, 135, 145.)</p> + +<p><b>Penryn</b> (3256), a market town and municipal borough, +situated on an arm of Falmouth harbour that is being gradually +silted up. The parish church is dedicated to St Gluvias. It +formerly returned two members to Parliament. Here was formerly +a monastic establishment, at Glasney, but of this only a few +fragments of wall remain. There is a station on the branch +to Falmouth of the G.W.R. (pp. 18, 96, 105, 131, 137, 139, 144.) +<span class="pagenum">[155]</span></p> + +<p><b>Penzance</b> (12,155), the most westerly town in England. +The name signifies the Holy Head; it is a seaport, municipal +borough, and union town. The climate is here most warm and +relaxing. Penzance was incorporated in 1614 and has a corporation +consisting of a mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen councillors. +There are some fine public buildings, and a good museum for the +birds, minerals, and antiquities of Western Cornwall. Hence +starts the steamer that communicates with the Scilly Isles. From +Penzance excursions are made to the Land's End district, which +abounds in magnificent coast scenery, and in prehistoric megalithic +monuments. (pp. 44, 58, 66, 88, 92, 96, 108, 111, 134, 135, 137, +139, 143.)</p> + +<p><b>Probus</b> (1207) is a large village rather than a town, and is +situated two and a half miles from Grampound station on the +G.W.R. It is chiefly remarkable for its church tower, sculptured +throughout, and erected in the reign of Elizabeth. (p. 120.)</p> + +<p><b>St Agnes</b> (4291), a market town, reached by a branch of +the G.W.R. The church is Decorated, and has a spire, an +unusual feature in Cornwall. (pp. 38, 55, 58, 110.)</p> + +<p><b>St Austell</b> (3340), a market and union town with a station +on the G.W.R. A place that flourishes on the china-clay works +in the neighbourhood. The church has a noble tower and is in +the Perpendicular style. It possesses an exceedingly curious and +early font. Near St Austell is Menacudle, perhaps the most +picturesquely situated and best preserved of the Holy Wells in +Cornwall. (pp. 7, 9, 24, 26, 48, 85, 96, 120, 122, 137, 139, 145, 154.)</p> + +<p><b>St Blazey</b> (2931), a market town with a station on the +Newquay branch of the G.W.R.</p> + +<p><b>St Columb Major</b> (2640), an ancient market town two and +a half miles from the St Columb Road Station on the Newquay +branch of the G.W.R. and also in connexion with the L. & S.W.R. +at Wadebridge by coach. The church is fine, Perpendicular in +style, and has an interesting cross in the churchyard. The +<span class="pagenum">[156]</span> +chancel, formerly ten feet longer, was wrecked by an explosion of +gunpowder stored in the church, in 1676. There is a picturesque +old building with state hangings, originally a residence of the +Arundells of Trerice, near the churchyard gate. The old Cornish +hurling is still practised at St Columb. (pp. 9, 18, 99, 108, 119, +137.)</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus69.jpg" alt="Cross in Churchyard, St Columb" /><a name="illus69" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Cross in Churchyard, St Columb</p> + +<p><b>St Germans</b> (2126), a large village rather than a town, +with a station on the G.W.R. It returned representatives to +Parliament from 1562 till the passing of the Reform Act in 1832. +The church is especially interesting from its noble Norman west +front. It lies in the park of the Earl of St Germans. The +almshouses in the town are especially to be noted for their +picturesqueness. (pp. 17, 105, 118, 131, 137, 139.) +<span class="pagenum">[157]</span></p> + +<p><b>St Ives</b> (6699), a municipal borough on the shore of St Ives +Bay, and the terminus of a branch of the G.W.R. from St Erth. +The corporation now consists of a mayor, four aldermen, and +twelve councillors. The borough formerly returned two members +to Parliament. The town is irregularly built with narrow +streets and has "a very ancient fishlike smell." The church is +interesting, it possesses curious carved bench-ends, and an old +cross outside, of an unusually elaborate description. The population +is almost entirely dependent on the fishing industry; but +of late a St Ives school of painting has grown up, and artists have +settled here to study sea effects, and seafaring people. (pp. 7, 9, 38, +56, 67, 87, 88, 93, 94, 102, 105, 135, 137, 139.)</p> + +<p><b>St Just in Penwith</b> (5646), a market town seven miles +west of Penzance, the nearest railway station. The town consists +of several streets diverging from a triangular space in the centre. +The church, well cared for, is Perpendicular in style. (pp. 40, 110, +111.)</p> + +<p><b>St Mary's, Scilly</b> is a town and the focus of life in the +Isles of Scilly. The total population of these isles is 2092. The +Isles belong to the Duchy of Cornwall but have been leased to +Mr Dorrien-Smith. A large business is done in the sending of +flowers and early potatoes thence to London. There is a good +pier and harbour. (pp. 58, 59, 96.)</p> + +<p><b>Saltash</b> (3357), built on a steep slope falling to the Hamoaze, +returned two members to Parliament till disfranchised in 1832. +The Royal Albert Bridge here crosses the Tamar, erected in +1857-9, carrying the trains of the G.W.R. into Cornwall. +Saltash has a station. It was formerly the great place of crossing +from Devon to Cornwall and <i>vice versa</i> by ferry boats. (pp. 105, +132, 134, 139, 147.)</p> + +<p><b>Stratton</b> and <b>Bude</b> (2308). Stratton is a small market +and union town, and Bude its modern prosperous daughter is two +miles off, the terminus of a branch of the L. & S.W.R. whereas +<span class="pagenum">[158]</span> +Stratton has no station. It is a sleepy, decaying place; it possesses +a fine church in which is the altar tomb of a Crusader, and another +to Sir John Arundell of Trerice. On the other hand Bude is a +growing and thriving watering-place, and possesses a small harbour. +(pp. 7, 32, 33, 57, 103, 120, 133, 135, 136, 137, 139.)</p> + +<p><b>Truro</b> (2215, but with Kenwyn 5836, and with St Clement +3283 more). Truro is a city, the seat of a bishop, a municipal +borough, head of an union and county court district, and a port. +The city is situated in a valley and comprises the parishes of +St Mary, Kenwyn and St Clement. At high water the tide forms +a fine lake two miles in length reaching from Truro quay to Malpas, +and the channel is of sufficient depth to be navigable for vessels +of upwards of 70 tons. Truro was formerly one of the towns +having the privilege of stamping tin, and is the seat of the +Stannary Court. In 1876 Cornwall was cut off from Devon for +ecclesiastical purposes and Truro constituted the seat of the +<span class="pagenum">[159]</span> +bishop, and in 1880 the present cathedral was begun. Truro +possesses a Passmore Edwards Free Library, and it is the seat of +the Royal Institution of Cornwall which has here a museum and +a library. (pp. 18, 38, 66, 67, 96, 104, 123, 124, 132, 135, 137, 139, +144, 146.)</p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus70.jpg" alt="Truro" /><a name="illus70" title=""></a></p> +<p class="caption">Truro</p> + +<p><b>Tywardreath</b> (2215) is a little town where once was a +Benedictine priory. It has a coastguard station and a police +station. (p. 48.)</p> + +<p><b>Wadebridge</b> (2186), a market town on the river Camel, +partly in the parish of St Breock and partly in that of +Egloshayle. It has a station on the L. & S.W.R. whence also +runs a branch to Bodmin and another to Padstow. A stone bridge +originally of 17 but now of 15 arches, erected in 1485, connects +Wadebridge with Egloshayle. The chief trade of the town +consists in the exportation of granite, china-clay, and agricultural +produce, and the principal imports are coal and timber. (pp. 14, +135.)</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="chap28" id="chap28"></a>28. DIAGRAMS.</h2> + + +<p><span class="pagenum">[160]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus71.png" alt="Figures 1 and 2 (Land area and Population)" /></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[161]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus72.png" alt="Figure 3 (Population Density)" /></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[162]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus73.png" alt="Figures 4 and 5 (Cultivation and Crops)" /></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[163]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus74.png" alt="Figures 6 and 7 (Livestock and Cereals)" /></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum">[164]</span></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/illus75.png" alt="Figures 8 and 9 (Pastures and Fish)" /></p> +<hr style="width:50%" /> + +<p style="font-size: 60%" class="center">CAMBRIDGE: PRINTED BY JOHN CLAY, M.A. AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS</p> +<hr style="width: 80%" /> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/map2a.jpg" alt="Geological map - west" /><a name="map2a" title=""></a></p> + +<p class="center"><img src="images/map2b.jpg" alt="Geological map - east" /><a name="map2b" title=""></a></p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cornwall, by Sabine Baring-Gould + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CORNWALL *** + +***** This file should be named 38190-h.htm or 38190-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/1/9/38190/ + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Eric Skeet and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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