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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:09:42 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:09:42 -0700 |
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diff --git a/38183-h/38183-h.htm b/38183-h/38183-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea58bf9 --- /dev/null +++ b/38183-h/38183-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5657 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>From the Thames to the Tiber, by J. Wardle</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} + div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, From the Thames to the Tiber, by J. Wardle + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: From the Thames to the Tiber + or, My visit to Paris, Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, Switzerland, etc. + + +Author: J. Wardle + + + +Release Date: December 1, 2011 [eBook #38183] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FROM THE THAMES TO THE TIBER*** +</pre> +<p>This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/fp.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Portrait of Author" +title= +"Portrait of Author" +src="images/fp.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h1>FROM<br /> +THE THAMES<br /> +TO THE TIBER;</h1> +<p style="text-align: center"><span +class="GutSmall">OR,</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">My Visit to Paris</span>, <span +class="smcap">Rome</span>, <span class="smcap">Florence</span>, +<span class="smcap">Venice</span>,<br /> +<span class="smcap">Milan</span>, <span +class="smcap">Switzerland</span>, <span +class="smcap">etc.</span>,<br /> +<span class="smcap">With Illustrations</span>.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br +/> +J. WARDLE</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Author of</p> +<p class="gutindent">“General Gordon, Saint and +Soldier.”<br /> +“Tour in Palestine and Egypt.”<br /> +“Sound at heart,” etc.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">A. TAYLOR,<br /> +CHAPEL BAR, NOTTINGHAM.<br /> +1909.</p> +<h2><a name="pagei"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +i</span>CONTENTS.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER I.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>London: Its teeming millions of population; Its commercial +aspect: Leaving Victoria Station for New Haven: On the boat: New +found friends: Landing at Dieppe: Leaving for Paris: Arrival at +Rouen: Its Cathedral, etc.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER II.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Arrival at Paris: Our Hotel—“Hotel Londres and +New York”: Visit to the Louvre: The Cathedral of Notre +Dame: The Church of St. Geniveve: The Pantheon: Bloody +Bartholomew: Its awful massacre.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER III.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Paris: Palace de Concorde: Champs-Elysees: The Bois de +Boulogne: The extensive Boulevards: The River Seine: Leaving +Paris: Arrival at Dijon: Our Hotel: Dijon: Its Churches, etc.: +Our journey to Chambery, etc.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="pageii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. ii</span>CHAPTER +IV.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Through Mont Cenis Tunnel: Passing the Customs: Our new +friend—Nurse Reynolds: Our scrimmage for provisions at +Turin: Arrival at Genoa and Table-de-hote: Arrival at Rome: Our +Hotel, etc.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER V.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Visit to the Forum and Coliseum: Crossing the Tiber: +Castle of St. Angelo: Palace of Justice: Trajan’s Column: +Garibaldi’s Monument: The Appian Way: St. Peter’s: +Its magnitude and magnificence: Michael Angelo’s work.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER VI.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Rome, continued: St. Peter’s Cathedral: St. +Peter’s Statue: His resting place: The Columns, Pictures, +Fonts, Confessionals, etc., etc.: The Vatican: The Professional +Letter Writer: The Arch of Titus: Statue of Nero, etc.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER VII.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>The Church of the Trinity: St. Maria: Church of Onesemus: +The Grand Corso: The British and Foreign Bible Society: Outside +view of the Quirinal: Nero’s House: Leaving Rome: Scene at +a wayside station: Arrival at Florence: Visit to the +Cathedral.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER VIII.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Florence: Michael Angelo’s House: Baptistry of St. +John: The Uffizi Gallery: The Tribune: A drive to the suburbs: +Dante’s House: His Poems: Mrs. Browning on Vallambrosa: +Michael Angelo’s work: Galileo, his trial, etc.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="pageiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. iii</span>CHAPTER +IX.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Appalling catastrophe in Italy: Messina: Savonarola: His +defiance of the Pope: His excommunication: His prison cell, etc.: +His martyrdom: Raphael: His genius as a painter: His works: The +old Protestant Cemetery: Leaving Florence: Bologna: Crossing the +Lagoons: Venice.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER X.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Arrival at Venice: The ubiquitous Gondolo: The Grand +Canal: The curious water ways: Our Hotel: A snap shot of a +Gondolo and its freight: St. Mark’s Cathedral: Its curious +history: Its wonderful Tower, and its interior possessions.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER XI.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>The Pigeons in St. Mark’s Square: Description of its +interior: The Palace of the Doges: The Bridge of Sighs: The +general Archives of Venice: Church of St. Maria dei Frari: A +London Polytechnic Party: The slums of Venice: Our leaving.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER XII.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Arrival in Milan: Our visit to the Cathedral: Its Spires, +and Turrets: Its Stained Glass Windows, Altars, Pictures, and +Sculpture: The Church of St. Ambrogio: The Bera Picture Gallery: +The Hospital: Leaving Milan: Arrival at Como: Lake Como.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER XIII.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Arrival at Lugano: The river Tessin and its bridge of ten +arches: Bellinzono: Entrance to the great St. Gothard Tunnel: +Station of Andermath: St. Bernard’s Hospice: The +Devil’s Bridge: The Wood Cutter at Work: William +Tell’s Chapel: His story: Lucerne: Our Hotel: Our run up +the Sonnenberg, etc.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="pageiv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. iv</span>CHAPTER +XIV.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>The glacier gardens: The Lion of Lucerne: The glacier mill +holes: The museum: The Bridge over the Reuss: The Cathedral: +Pilatus Mountain: Leaving Lucerne: Zurich: Lake of Zurich: +Zwingli, the reformer.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER XV.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>From Zurich to Basle: Arrival in Basle: Our Hotel: Our +visit to the Rhine Bridge: “The Watch on the Rhine”: +The Market: The Cathedral and its sculpture, etc.: Erasmus: The +Museum: The Zoological gardens: Leaving Basle: Arrival at +Belfort: Belfort besieged.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER XVI.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>At Marseilles: Our Hotel; Meeting Mr. and Mrs. Green and +Mrs. Martin: The sights of the City: The Cathedral, etc.: En +route for Mentone: Toulon: Passing Nice: Cannes: Arrival at +Mentone: Our Hotel: Meeting Mr. and Miss Brown: The scenery, +etc.: Visit to Monte Carlo.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER XVII.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Monte Carlo: Its Casino and gardens: Leave taking at +Mentone of Mr. and Miss Brown: Arrival at Cannes: Meeting Mr. and +Mrs. Green: Cannes, its scenery, etc.: Visit to Grasse: Journey +to Paris: London: Home, Sweet Home.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page185">185</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p. v</span>LIST OF +ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="GutSmall">FACING</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>i.</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. Martin’s-le-Grand, London</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>ii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The Marble Arch, London</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page4">4</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>iii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Triumphal Arch, Paris</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>iv.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The Bastille Column, Paris</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>v.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Christian Martyrs in the Colosseum, Rome</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page37">37</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>vi.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The Roman Forum, Rome</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>vii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The Pantheon, Rome</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>viii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Garibaldi’s Monument, Rome</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>ix.</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. Peter’s Cathedral, Rome</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>x.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The Arch of Titus, Rome</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xi.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Church of the Trinity, Rome</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Team of Oxen in Tuscany</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xiii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Dante and Beatrice, Florence</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xiv.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Mrs. Wardle near the Duomo, Florence</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page81">81</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xv.</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. Mark’s Cathedral, Venice</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xvi.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Mrs. Wardle and Miss Himmel by the Doges Pillar, +Venice</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page116">116</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xvii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Ditto, in Gondola, Venice</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xviii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Milan Cathedral, Milan</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xix.</p> +</td> +<td><p>St. Gothard Tunnel</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xx.</p> +</td> +<td><p>William Tell’s Monument</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xxi.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Lion of Lucerne</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xxii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The Rhine Bridge, Basle</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xxiii.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The Casino, Monte Carlo</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page185">185</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xiv.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Miss Brown at Mentone</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>xxv.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Mr. and Mrs. Green, Mrs. Martin, Mrs. Wardle and Mrs. +Giles at Cannes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page189">189</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<blockquote><p><a name="pagevi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +vi</span>“Go, little book, God send the good passage,<br /> +And specially let this be thy prayer:<br /> +Unto them all that thee will read or hear,<br /> +Where thou art wrong, after their help to call,<br /> +Thee to correct in any part or all.”</p> +<p style="text-align: right">—CHAUCER.</p> +</blockquote> +<h1><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>CHAPTER +I.</h1> +<p class="gutsumm">London: Its teeming millions of population: +Its commercial aspect: Leaving Victoria Station for New Haven: On +the Boat: New found friends: Landing at Dieppe: Leaving for +Paris: Rouen, its Cathedral, etc.</p> +<p>We had settled to have a holiday—not a mere pic-nic, not +a week-end at Blackpool, or a tour of a few days in the Isle of +Man—but a real first-class, out-and-out trip. Where +then is it to be? Why, to Rome and back, came the +reply. From St. Paul’s in London, the largest city in +the world, to St. Peter’s in Rome, one of the great cities +of the ancient world.</p> +<p>“To Rome!” my friends said in astonishment.</p> +<p>“Yes! to Rome.” There seems to be magic <a +name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>in the very +word. Rome—The Eternal City. The city of the +seven hills. The city of which St. Paul was proud to be a +citizen. See Acts, chapter 22, verse 25. “Is it +lawful for you to scourge a man that is a Roman, +uncondemned?” verse 28. “Then the Chief Captain +came and said unto him. Tell me, art thou a +Roman?” He said, “Yes.”</p> +<p>Rome stands for power. Her proud eagles once swept their +wings over almost the then known world. Rome stands for +antiquity, greatness, wealth, splendour, conquest and +colonization, liberty, law, self control, prowess, skill. +But, alas! It also stands for cruelty, luxury, strife, war, +humiliation, decay, decline.</p> +<p>This is the objective really of our holiday. Now it is +settled, ways and means, and the route, etc., are but +details. Packing! Well, I am a poor hand at +packing. I think it must be a gift to be able to pack +well. I think a good packer must be born, not made. +If I pack, sure as fate, the things I want first are at the +bottom of the trunk. My dear little wife, to whom I owe +much for packing and general comfort during the tour, and, +indeed, I owe to her well-kept journal, much that assists me to +make this record of our holiday.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p3.jpg"> +<img alt= +"St. Martin’s Le-Grand, London" +title= +"St. Martin’s Le-Grand, London" +src="images/p3.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>On the 25th September, 1907, we found ourselves en route for +London, followed by the good wishes and prayers of loved ones +left <a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 3</span>behind, +also of the many friends we knew had kind thoughts of us. +We reached London about 6 p.m., and were soon snug and +comfortable in “The Manchester Hotel.” We had +no time and no special wish just now to see London. London +cannot be seen in a day or two. Its magnitude bewilders, +having a population of about 7,000,000, and for its teeming +millions, there is need of bread, milk, beef, clothes, work, +etc. We cannot understand at a glance what it means. +In London we have the largest breweries, distilleries, and sugar +refineries in the Kingdom; also many metal manufacturers and +machine makers, including: plate, jewellery, watches, brass +works, and all kinds of tin and zinc works; large printing and +publishing houses; also, as you know, large millinery and +tailoring establishments; cabinet-making on a most extensive +scale, leather-working, coopering, coach-building, ship-building, +hat-making, extensive chemical works, soap manufacturing and dye +works; also dock labourers, ’bus drivers, cab drivers, tram +guards and drivers, railway men and engine drivers, policemen, +postmen, ministers of religion, there being over 3,000 churches +in this great city, and many other means of living besides the +few I have mentioned. Then there are its hotels, as +“The Manchester Hotel” where we are <a +name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span>staying, +“The Midland Grand,” “Grand Hotel,” +Trafalgar Square, “The Victoria Hotel” in +Northumberland Avenue. Many more offering accommodation to +the tens of thousands of visitors to this great city from all +lands. We cannot refrain from mentioning the religious +aspect of the city. We have our noble Cathedral, St. +Paul’s, always worth a visit, if only for its monuments and +torn banners, and its choral service; then we have +“Spurgeon’s Tabernacle”; “The City +Temple,” where once ministered that mighty man of God, Dr. +J. Parker; also Wesley’s Church; City Road West London +Mission, and many others I cannot describe.</p> +<p>Its theatres on all hands, who claim their votaries by tens of +thousands nightly. The underground electric railways give +to the city traveller and visitor an idea of the vastness and +importance of the City. However, it was no part of my +intention when I began this record to describe London, so I will +content myself with saying we only spent one night in the city on +our outward journey.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p4.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"The Marble Arch, London" +title= +"The Marble Arch, London" +src="images/p4.jpg" /> +</a>Many of my readers will be quite familiar with the streets, +shops, bazaars and churches of this great hive of human life, +human industry, and human skill. A good night’s rest +and we rose refreshed for our journey, now it is to Paris. +We had very little <a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +5</span>difficulty in re-packing our valise and trunk, settling +our account and calling to our rescue a porter. We were +soon in train at Snow Hill for Victoria, arriving at this latter +place in time to catch “The Continental” for New +Haven and Dieppe. It is not an easy matter even with a +porter to guide you, to find out amidst such a labyrinth of +platforms and stair-cases to find the train you want, and to get +a comfortable seat. We managed, however, ultimately to +reach the right platform and to find a seat in a comfortable +compartment. We noticed our fellow passengers, by label on +their luggage, were also going to foreign fields and to +Continental cities. The morning was a lovely autumn +morning. As we steamed out of Victoria Station we got a +sight of the lovely landscape, the morning sun was shining in +great brilliance. We passed villages of importance, and +towns in rapid succession. Lewes was a stopping place not +far from New Haven. We did not stay long at this station, +just long enough for the railway officials to satisfy themselves +we were all furnished with tickets for the Continent. After +leaving Lewes, we were in New Haven in about half-an-hour.</p> +<p>New Haven is about 56 miles from London. A pretty place, +lying at the foot of the white chalk cliffs. It has a +population of about <a name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +6</span>3,000. It is, however, an important place, as the +mail packets for the cities of Europe leave here twice +daily. Our train ran us very close up to the landing stage, +and the securing our luggage and getting it conveyed from train +to steamer was only the work of about ten minutes, and was +managed without the least difficulty. The weather continued +all we could desire, and it seemed quite clear we were going to +have a calm sea and a pleasant voyage across channel. We +got very nice seats on the boat; we found our fellow-passengers +on the whole most agreeable, polite, and, indeed, friendly; were +we not all on pleasure bent, and should we not now, on the wide +ocean, show to others respect. We strolled the deck of our +pretty little vessel, she was a beauty, and behaved so well, we +had not the least fear of that terrible disease that afflicts so +many who sail the seas, I mean what the French call +mal-de-mer—“the sickness of the sea.” We +had hardly lost sight of the white cliffs of dear, old England, +when our thoughts went back to home, and to loved ones. +Then we began to think of refreshments. We found a menu +that filled us with hopefulness that an agreeable meal at least +might be obtained. We went to the buffet and found we could +get a real good English dinner. This we had and enjoyed it +heartily; I considered it <a name="page7"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 7</span>excellent, and my wife, who is a +connoisseur in the cookery line, declared she was well +satisfied.</p> +<p>A newly-married couple joined us. We found they were on +their honeymoon. A very happy couple apparently. In +our hearts we wished that their lives might be as smooth as the +sea we were now crossing. We became quite friends before we +got half way across the channel. I had my Kodak with me, so +I must take a snap-shot or two of the happy pair; then I and my +wife must submit to the same process. So the time passed +pleasantly, and in about three hours we were landing on the +shores of France at Dieppe.</p> +<p>Our little ship, as if in a hurry to serve us, was quickly up +at the landing stage, and we were safe on shore with our baggage, +en route for the Custom House. We soon found out we were in +a foreign land, because a foreign tongue was spoken, and although +I am able to parley vous un peu, I could not hold conversation +with a Frenchman, he speaks so quickly. I, however, could +ask a simple question in French and also give a simple answer to +a question, and this was of immense value to me during this +tour. Our trunks duly examined, and free, we had a short +time to look round Dieppe.</p> +<p>On our strolling about a little, waiting for <a +name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>our train, we +saw a little of this rather important French town and watering +place. It has a population of about 20,000; it lies in a +hollow so to speak; the white chalk hills surround it; the quays +are substantially built of solid masonry. Dieppe seems to +have an old castle, quite out-of-date, as a defence; there is +also a citadel of modern construction; a small light-house, about +40-feet high, stands by the entrance of the town. We +learned that a large number of French people come to Dieppe for +the summer and autumn holidays. There are some works for +the labouring classes, such as: ivory works, one of the most +famous in Europe; also there are some works in horn, in bone, +some in lace, some sugar refineries, a little ship-building, and +the fishing industry is fairly prominent; a good supply of +herring and mackerel is sent daily to Paris; also there are +extensive oyster beds, which are a source of profit to the +inhabitants. We boarded the train about 4 o’clock +p.m., and leaving Dieppe and the sea behind us, we steamed away +at a rapid rate towards Paris. We passed some lovely +country, rich in fruit and foliage; some most beautiful Chalets, +with grounds like fairyland; also, we saw the working-class home, +apparently very poor, no windows and little furniture; they seem +to live out of doors, and eat very much fruit and <a +name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>vegetables; +they appear, however, healthy and strong. We saw some one +or two cemeteries, and so near we could see very strange archways +of flowers or wood, or marble over the graves, and very large +crucifix’s.</p> +<p>We had left our new found friends at Dieppe, so now we were +more alone to enjoy each others company, and to speak of the +scenery and places as we passed them. In about an +hour-and-an-half we reached Rouen. A very large and +important railway station. Here we stayed a little while, +and we could see the town was large and important. It was +formerly the capital of the province of Normandy. It is one +of the best commercial centres in France. It has been +called the Manchester of France on account of its great cotton +manufactories, producing goods to the value of 80,000,000 francs +annually. It has also manufactories of hosiery, silk and +wool fabrics, hardware and machinery. It is an important +sea-port, as it has a harbour that can receive steamers of 600 +tons. It has a population of about 150,000. The +Cathedral of Notre Dame, built between 1207 and 1210, is a fine +Gothic building. The spire is nearly 500 feet high. +In this old Cathedral rests the remains of Rollo, first Duke of +Normandy, and his son William.</p> +<p>M. B. Edwards, in a poem, says of this <a +name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>old-world +Cathedral:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The isles grow dim, and as by winding +ways,<br /> + Eager I climb St. Onen’s giddy height,<br /> +The silver censers vanish from my gaze<br /> + As shooting stars upon a dusky night<br /> +I hear the chanting vespers at my feet<br /> +Like wordless water, music fair and sweet.</p> +<p>“On priest and acolyte and people falls,<br /> + From western window many a sapphire ray;<br /> +The sculptured knights within the niched walls<br /> + Look not more mute and marble-like than they,<br /> +Living and dead with fingers clasped seem praying<br /> +God and the angels hear what they are saying.</p> +<p>“The city gleams with lights that come and go,<br /> + The hills are cut against the opal west;<br /> +The river hath a soft and onward flow<br /> + As some tired spirit fain to seek its rest,<br /> +While from the far outlying mists of green<br /> +Tinkle some vesper bells of Church unseen.</p> +<p>“Monk, Martyr, Saint, and paladin arise<br /> + Around me now in pinnacled array;<br /> +An hour ago they seemed to touch the skies,<br /> + At last I stand as near to heaven as they,<br /> +And at last ’mid this mute companionship of stone<br /> +I cannot feel that I am quite alone.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h2><a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +11</span>CHAPTER II.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Arrival in Paris: Our Hotel—“Hotel +Londres and New York”: Visit to the Louvre: The Cathedral +of Notre Dame: The Church of St. Geniveve: The Pantheon: Bloody +Bartholomew: Its awful massacre.</p> +<p>Our stay in Rouen was of the briefest, so we were soon full +steam ahead for Paris, and Rouen was left behind. We +crossed some wonderful bridges of the rivers, or river; I think +we crossed the Seine several times.</p> +<p>On approaching the suburbs of Paris, we saw large villas and +larger mansions, surrounded with luxuriant foliage; indeed, the +whole landscape is charming. Soon we found the train +rattling over points and crossings, and into Gare de +Lazare. So we are in Paris; the city of gaiety, the city of +beauty, the goal of pleasure seekers from all parts of the world; +a city, it is said by Victor Hugo, combines in +itself—Athens, Rome, Jerusalem—such is the city we +have just entered, and which is to be our home for two or three +days. The distance from the station to our +Hotel—“Hotel Londres and New York,” 15, Place +du Havre, is so short that our <a name="page12"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 12</span>luggage was conveyed by porter, +without a cab; we just walked across the square, and we were in +the Hotel. I had, however, a difficulty on hand with the +porter. My idea of remuneration for porter’s services +were by no means up-to-date for Paris; I thought a franc for ten +minutes’ service ample. He, evidently, did not think +so, as he showed himself highly dissatisfied, and expressed +himself in language (happily I understood but little of) anything +but polite. I told the Hotel Manager how I had acted, and +he went and sent him away.</p> +<p>When in Paris, if you are in doubt as to your exact position, +and want direction (in England you would say, “ask a +policeman”), in France—pardon, monsieur, Quel est le +chemin pour le madoline. If you put on side, he won’t +notice you; if you offer him a tip, he will probably take you for +a spy, and arrest you as an anarchist. The lifting of the +hat and the word “monsieur” is an open sesame which +appeals to all Frenchmen, and smooths away many difficulties; it +transforms the haughty policeman into the politest of bobbies; +the frowning hotel-keeper into the most jovial of hosts; and the +cross-grained custom house official into a most agreeable +acquaintance. You must avoid whistling while in Paris; the +Scotchman says, “Ye mauna whustle on the Sabbath”; +this saying must be applied to <a name="page13"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 13</span>every day of the week in Paris; +nothing is so irritating to a Frenchman, except perhaps the sight +of a British tourist, arrayed in white flannels, marching in +their grand Cathedrals, or even one of their ordinary Churches, +with a cigarette in his mouth. The untravelled man soon +finds out the difference between an English and a Continental +City, and habits of the people.</p> +<p>We were shown to our rooms, which we found clean and +comfortable; the Hotel is all we could desire. A porter, at +the entrance, speaks fairly good English. We soon had a +good square meal, in the shape of table-de-hote, which we were +quite ready for and enjoyed; plenty of fruit on the tables, +grapes, oranges, apples and peaches. After satisfying the +inner man, we strolled into the lounge or writing-room, which we +found most convenient and pleasant—writing material, +newspapers and bills of concerts, plays, etc.; also, here I could +enjoy my pull at the weed. We were not late in retiring to +rest; rest we could, but not sleep for a time; I thought, O! +restless Paris! The only time that is quiet from tram, +’bus and cab seems to be from about 1 a.m. to 3 a.m.; after +this early hour, wagons begin to lumber past, farmers from the +country, I think, with produce which must be in the market +early. We slept, however, a <a name="page14"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 14</span>few hours, rising fairly early for +dejeuner, we were able to enjoy a cup of coffee made in Paris; +coffee here is perfect; roll and butter, fish, eggs, etc. +Breakfast over we engaged a cab, a taxi-cab, and we drove round +some parts of this wonderful city; we went by some parts of the +banks of the river Seine, and here there are literally miles of +quays, and the river is spanned by fifteen bridges, some of them +of great strength and beauty.</p> +<p>The Louvre was one of the places we visited. No one +would think of going to Paris without seeing this vast pile of +buildings; no less than sixty acres, I learned, in the very heart +of the city was taken up by this building. It stands to-day +as it has stood for more than an hundred years, with its grand +facades, pavillions and colonnades, and its splendid halls, +saloons and galleries, as a proud monument to the ancient Royalty +of France. It was the home of Henry III., till civil war +drove him from his capital, and he perished at St. Cloud by the +assassin’s knife. Here for a time Henry of Navarre +had his abode. It is now a museum or a series of grand +museums; miles of the most wonderful paintings, choice +sculptures, Assyrian, Egyptian, Greek and Roman antiquities, +bronzes, historic relics from far off lands, and from different +races, engravings and models—indeed, it is a great <a +name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>storehouse of +art. During the war with Germany, the Communists set fire +to one of the wings and the library of 90,000 volumes and many +rare manuscripts were destroyed.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p15.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Triumphal Arch, Paris" +title= +"Triumphal Arch, Paris" +src="images/p15.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>It is said that on the night of the 23rd of May, a troop of +Germans had entered the city and made their way so far, they +ordered the porter or door-keeper of the Louvre to pour petroleum +into the different rooms, and on his refusal, they imprisoned him +and his wife in his own lodge, and then at once set fire to the +place. Next day the French troops arrived in time to +release him from his sad plight, and also to arrest the flames in +their destructive work.</p> +<p>The Cathedral of Notre Dame, of course, came in for a +visit. It stands, we are told, on the site on which the +Roman conqerors erected a temple to Jupiter. This Cathedral +is a marvel of architectural beauty. As you gaze you wonder +at the skill of the architect, and also of sculpture, for there +are in marble and stone fanciful scenes from bible history +portrayed—the Kings of Judah; a colossal image of the +Virgin Mother; Adam and Eve. There are many pointed arches +and stained windows glistening in the sun’s rays. Two +massive towers rising to the height of 200 feet. The +interior is in keeping with the exterior, only, if possible, +richer and finer; the length <a name="page16"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 16</span>is about 400 feet, and the breadth +about 150. It has stood in its beauty on this spot during +the last 600 years.</p> +<p>One of the Chapels of this Cathedral contains, they tell us, +some wonderful relics. For instance, “a part of the +crown of thorns with which our Saviour was crowned in +mockery”; also the sponge and winding sheet used at His +death. Kings and princes of the Roman Catholic persuasion +have vied with each other in the costliness of their offering at +this sacred shrine—cups, gold cups, silver cups, vases, +candlesticks, crosses in gold and silver, some studded with +diamonds, and all kinds of precious stones. There are +curiosities and art treasures in abundance within the precincts +of this holy place. It must have been a proud day for +Napoleon when he came to be crowned in this great Cathedral, +heralded by Popes, Marshalls and sword-bearers. Bearers +bore his train amidst the most brilliant assembly of this, or any +other land.</p> +<p>Another notable building we visited after the Cathedral of +Notre Dame, I think more interesting in its way—what was at +one time the Church of St. Geniveve—now it is known as the +Pantheon. It stands upon an elevation, and its magnificent +dome can be seen from almost all parts of the city. It +rises to <a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>a +height of 267 feet. The funds to build it with, we are +told, were provided by lottery at the time of Louis XV. Its +approach is very attractive, being by a stately portico, and by a +triumphal progress. The grand car, upon which the +Sarcophagus containing the body of Voltaire was laid, was drawn +by twelve white horses to the Pantheon. It is said that +100,000 people joined in the procession. Rousseau and Marat +were buried with similar honours; but we are told, that so fickle +is the populace, that six months after, the body of one of them +was removed and buried in a common sewer. Our guide was not +shy in showing us the very sad effects of the German +shells. The large dome was shot through by their cannon +balls, and, but for the timely help of the troops from +Versailles, very likely this noble building would have shared the +same fate as many others did.</p> +<p>Opposite the grand collonade, near the Louvre, is the Church +of St. Germain, with its strange gable, buttresses and +gargoyles. From the belfry of this Church, it is said, +“rang out the tocsin,” which was the signal for the +massacre of St. Bartholomew, on the 24th of August, 1572. +At the dead of night—fit time for such awful deeds of blood +and murder—at the sound of this tocsin the courtly butchers +went forth to their work of slaughter, armed <a +name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>and shouting +“for God and the King.” They forced the +dwellings of the Christians. Six thousand of these +assassins, wielding the weapons of the brigand and the soldier, +ran about in the wildest fury, murdering without mercy or +distinction of sex, or suffering, or age. Many of these +fiends in human form ran shouting “kill the heretic, kill +the heretic! Death to the Huguenots—Kill! +Kill!!”</p> +<p>That day the human seemed to be turned into the fiend. +It is said there perished in Paris alone, over 15,000 Christian +Martyrs, and in the provinces more than as many more. The +sun of that beautiful sabbath shone with its pure light upon the +desolate and dishonoured homes of the victims of this terrible +massacre; and the air, which should have been hushed from sound +until the psalm of praise woke it, bore upon its midnight billows +the yell of fierce blasphemers flushed and drunk with +murder. Says one, “Unhappy, Paris, thou hast suffered +many things since that unhappy time.”</p> +<p>There are many interesting Churches in this gay city, but I +must refrain from dwelling upon their beauty and utility.</p> +<h2><a name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +19</span>CHAPTER III.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Paris: Palace de Concorde: Champs Elysees: The +Bois de Boulogne: The extensive Boulevards: The River Seine, +etc.: Leaving Paris: Arrive at Dijon: Our Hotel: Dijon, its +Churches, etc.: Our journey to Chambery, etc.</p> +<p>The Place de la Concorde. Here we were pointed out was a +place where a terrible struggle took place between the Germans +and the French in 1871. The work of devastation and ruin +was only too apparent. We drove to the Champs +Elysees. This is a most lovely place, with a broad avenue a +mile long, with trees on each side of all sorts, and grass lawns +and flower beds in the greatest profusion. Here wander +carelessly the gay crowds, or sit in beautiful little cafes under +the spreading branches of the trees. In the groves around +the children are swarming, shouting, and playing. We +noticed there was the ever-loved of children, “The Punch +and Judy,” also with stalls with toys, gingerbread, etc., +etc.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p20.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"The Bastille Column, Paris" +title= +"The Bastille Column, Paris" +src="images/p20.jpg" /> +</a>When the darkness gathers and the numerous and brilliant gas +jets are lighted, stretching <a name="page20"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 20</span>for the distance of more than a mile, +and music and song float on the air, the scene is very +fascinating. It is said, that along this broad avenue, in +1871, Paris with suppressed rage—watched the last of the +German army disappear. Our jarvey then drove us to the Bois +de Boulogne, which is not far from here. This is a grand +promenade for chariots and horses, a little like our Rotten Row, +in London. There are here to be seen lakes, islands, +caverns, artificial mounds, avenues, and, indeed, everything to +make a most charming retreat from the busy city life. The +Champ de Mars is another of the open spaces. Napoleon, +before the famous battle of Waterloo, held his last review of the +grand army of France here. Again, in 1852, 60,000 soldiers +were brought together on the occasion of the distribution of +eagles to the different regiments, also several Arabs, in native +costume, as representative of the vanquished Algerian +tribes. And here again, sad to say, in 1871, the Germans +levelled their dreadful “mitrailleuse” and shot down, +in their helplessness, many of the French. We can hardly +leave Paris without saying further that the boulevards of Paris +are a great boon and joy to the city. Whatever may be +thought or said of the career of Napoleon III., in fourteen years +he spent £60,000,000 in building seventy <a +name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>miles of +streets and two hundred boulevards, eight churches, eighty +schools, twelve wonderful bridges, and planted fifty thousand +trees. All added ultimately to the wealth as well as the +attractions of the city. To describe the streets is a task +I shall not attempt. They are called Rue—as Rue +Lafitte, Rue de la Chausse, Rue de la Victorie, Rue St. +Dennis. The numerous places and things in and around Paris +that call for remarks are legion, but I must forbear, only to +give one passing reference to the river Seine and its many +bridges. Pont Notre Dame or the bridge of Our Lady, dates +from the fifteenth century; a bridge of later date, we were told, +was made of wood, and fell into the river taking sixty houses +with it. This is a fine bridge built of solid +masonry. The Pont d’Arcole is a suspension bridge for +foot passengers only. The Pont Neuf was built by Henry +IV. There is a bronze horse on the bridge which was cast in +Tuscany. On its way to Paris, the vessel bringing it was +wrecked off the Norman coast, and lay for a year at the bottom of +the sea. It was ultimately fished up and brought to its +present position. And now I must leave, for a time at +least, any further reference to Paris, only to say we settled our +account at the Hotel and drove off to Gare-de-Lyon to catch the +<a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>train at +10.25 for Dijon. Our driver was a very interesting sort of +Frenchman, and tried to explain and show us places and things, +but we were little the better for his attempts to enlighten +us. We reached the station early, and were soon steaming +away through France, and as we did so, we came to the conclusion +it was as fair a land as e’er we had set eyes on; miles of +lovely lawns; hedges cut and trimmed as if by a barber; the +poplar trees rising in rows, long and even, all in order and +beauty; then the rivers here and there rolling along, between +grassy banks, and the lovely fat looking cattle browsing or +sleeping in soft sunshine; cosy cottages, almost buried in bowers +of roses; quaint old world villages, with red-tiled cottages; and +stately churches with ivy covered towers, made one think of the +poet who sang:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Through thy cornfields green and sunny +vines,<br /> +O, pleasant land of France.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We had very comfortable seats in the train, and our travelling +companions, I think, saw we were foreigners, therefore did not +trouble us with any conversation. The country scenery we +passed was charming, as the autumn tints were visible upon the +trees; also the rich corn harvest was gathered in, and stacks of +wheat were plentiful. Labourers <a name="page23"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 23</span>we could see in the fields tilling +the soil for next year’s produce. The country we +passed through in our journey from Paris to Dijon (our next stop) +is comparatively flat, slightly undulating in places, and I +should think the soil is of a rich nature. About 6 +o’clock we arrived at Dijon, and soon were out of the train +and into the hotel ’bus. We had arranged beforehand +our hotel from a list supplied from “Cook & +Sons.” Here we had chosen the “Grand Hotel de +la Cloche,” or we should call it the “Bell +Hotel.” After having secured our +apartments—which were of a first-class order, most +profusely decorated and richly furnished, and clean beyond +description—we had a wash, and found table-de-hote was +ready, and we were ready too. A well prepared and well +served dinner of eight courses; wines free and abundant to those +who cared to have it; indeed, a bottle of the French red wine was +placed to each individual at the table; fruit in abundance. +A very good company, and apparently very jolly. All were +foreigners, either French, German or Italian. After dessert +we went for a little while to the smoke room, and then to +bed. We slept well until very early in the morning, when a +terrible storm of thunder and lightning broke over the +town—it was very startling, being so severe. We +learned, when at breakfast, that <a name="page24"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 24</span>a woman had been struck by lightning +close by our hotel; she, however, was not killed.</p> +<p>Dijon lies in a valley, the river Onche runs through it, and a +beautiful undulating piece of land, covered with vines, lies to +the left of the town, which is nearly 200 miles from Paris. +It has now, I believe, a population of about 50,000. We +took the best means of seeing it in the short time at our +disposal, by hiring a car. One of the most jolly-looking +Frenchmen I ever saw, with a face as round and red as an apple, +his horse was just as fat as a horse could be, and he cared for +it as if it was human, or even more than some human beings are +cared for. He drove us to some lovely gardens where there +was a fine lake and a fountain which was then playing. +Having my Kodak with me I took a snap-shot, though I regret to +say, I did not get a good picture. We drove to the lovely +Cathedral of St. Boniface, built, we were told, for the third +time in the twelfth century. The spire is very fine, rising +to a height of 300 feet. We also visited St. +Michael’s, which is Grecian in its exterior, but it is +Gothic in its interior. We passed a very old Carmelite +Church with rich carving about the entrance, and a fine old +carved oak door. On the steps sat two old men resting, +typical of the labouring class of France. I just managed to +get a snap-shot. There is a <a name="page25"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 25</span>fine town hall, which shows itself to +great advantage. We learnt it was at one time the Palace of +the Duke of Burgundy, and had then a very large collection of +scientific and art subjects, and a library of 50,000 +volumes. Dijon is one of the loveliest towns of +France. It has in it some manufacturies as woollen cloth, +blankets, glue, baskets, mustard oil, saltpetre, and there is +also a brewery. At the time of the Roman invasion, it is +said, Cæsar fixed and fortified a camp near here. The +Germans attacked it in 1871, and it capitulated on October 23rd +of that year, after a long and severe struggle, and was made, for +the time being (to the great chagrin of the inhabitants) the +head-quarters of the German General Werder. Having made as +full an acquaintance of the place as we could in the short time +at our disposal, we paid our hotel account and found ourselves +again at the railway station. Here I had a long and angry +altercation with the ticket examiner. I understood him to +say our tickets were for another route; I closely scanned them, +and assured him in the best French at my command, our tickets +were in order, and, after considerable difficulty, he consented +to our passing the stile and getting, to the train. Again +we were on rail, comfortably fixed and destined for +Chambery. We had not left Dijon long before we noticed the +<a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>vine-clad +hills, which indicated our approach to the South of France, and +Alpine hills. The scenery grew more beautiful as we sped +along towards our destination. We were able not only to +enjoy the views as we passed villages and hamlets—but were +able to get a fairly good square meal on the train. We +arrived safely at Chambery about 5 o’clock, and as usual we +had fixed upon an hotel. This time it is Hotel de France, +and we were soon in a rumbling old ’bus and driven to a +very quiet part of this quiet sleepy little town. We found +it fairly comfortable, and a hostess who had a robust and bonny +appearance, and whose welcome in the French fashion was all we +could wish. Our rooms were lofty and rather barely +furnished. There was a feeling of chilliness about the +place, but we were only staying for one night, so would put up +with it. A good hot table-de-hote dinner, and we felt +better. To bed at an early hour, was our habit, and here we +did not break it. A good night’s rest, and I was +stirring early to look round and get information. It is a +town of about 13,000 inhabitants. An Archbishop resides +here (of the Romish Church) of course. It has some +manufacturies in silk gauze, watches, leather, etc. I saw +some soldiers on horseback on parade and took a snap-shot. +Also two fine bullocks pulling a wagon of <a +name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>timber. +We had a very good breakfast, as our hostess was most gracious +and obliging. We settled up accounts, which we found on a +moderate scale, indeed, cheaper than a similar hotel in +England. We started for the station on foot, the morning +being fine, while a porter conveyed our luggage on a +wheelbarrow. Arriving in good time at the station we +managed to get good comfortable corner seats, so we could +“view the landscape o’er” at our leisure. +We soon found it was worth surveying, for we were nearing the +Alps. On our left, some fifty miles or more—Geneva +and, between the city and Chambery, lay a rugged mountainous +district scarcely matched in any part of the world. For an +hour or more we watched the changing scenery with an intense +interest.</p> +<h2><a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +28</span>CHAPTER IV.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Our journey to and through Mont Cenis Tunnel: +Passing the Customs: Our new friend Nurse Reynolds: Our scrimmage +for provisions at Turin: Arrival at Genoa and Table-de-hote: +Arrival at Rome and our Hotel, etc.</p> +<p>Mountains, rivers, waterfalls, landscapes, vineyards, castles, +chalets, and in some cases, so near the villages, we saw children +playing on the village green, our train steaming on at a good +speed, we soon found ourselves at Modane. This is the +frontier between France and Italy, and here I expected we should +have to change trains, go through the Customs, and re-embark on +another train. So we got out of the train. I soon +found, however, we were not to change, so we re-entered another +part of the same train, and here we were civilly and carefully +dealt with; the very acme of politeness was shown. Our bags +and valises were just opened, but scarcely examined. We +declared we had nothing within, to the best of our knowledge and +belief, upon which duty was payable. When asked the question, I +answered “Non, Monsieur.” When we came to +settle down <a name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +29</span>before the train proceeded on its journey we noticed our +fellow travellers were different. We found two ladies, +mother and daughter, going to join a near relative in India; an +Italian woman, not over clean, with a babe about four +weeks’ old; and a nurse in uniform who was going to Rome to +fill a position, also she wanted to learn the Italian +language. My dear wife and this nurse soon became close +acquaintances, as they both had learned the profession, and for +some time they were too absorbed almost to notice the scenery we +were passing, for we were now nearing the Alps through which we +were to pass. We reached Mont Cenis duly, and, as we heard +so much of this terrible tunnel, we almost dreaded passing +through it. At this point there is an old pass over Mont +Cenis, or roadway between Piedmont and Savoy, the highest point +11,570 feet above sea level. The pass was an old unused +road, and dangerous on account of brigands and bandittis. +Bonaparte, be it said to his credit, in 1803, spent +£300,000 in repairing it, and it was here the great +Napoleon III. sent his troops into Italy against Austria in +1859. The tunnel is about eight miles in length. To +make it was a work of almost superhuman labour and skill. +It was commenced by two sets of men, one on the Italian side and +one set on the French side, in <a name="page30"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 30</span>the year 1857; and so exact had been +the calculations made, that when the men met in the middle, they +were not a single foot out of their calculations. The cost +was nearly £3,000,000, and quite a number of valuable +lives. Now, both for business and pleasure, a way has been +opened to the sunny south. We settled in our respective +corners as we pierced this great mountain, and gave ourselves up +to reflection. The great train thundered on, and silence +largely held us all in its thrall. The half-hour in going +through Mont Cenis seemed almost half-a-day. At last we +emerged into the day light, and into the glorious sunshine of +sunny Italy, with its vine-clad hills, and its serene and sunny +sky—“Land of all lands the pride,” leaving +behind us the Alpine heights (to revisit them on our +return). We were running for Turin. We found we had +no buffet on the train, and as we had not laid in a stock of +refreshments, we began to feel the cravings of nature, and we +began to wonder how they were to be satisfied. We +ultimately pulled up at Turin; how long we were to stop I did not +know, and I could not ask, for now it was beyond my bit of +French. I said to my dear wife, here goes, we must have +bread or starve: if the train leaves before I return to +you—well, good-bye! But I will do my best to be back +in a few minutes and before the <a name="page31"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 31</span>train leaves. Without hat I +rushed down the platform looking for a buffet, right at the +bottom of a long platform I saw the word buffet. I darted +in, threw down a lire, and picked up two rolls of bread worth +about twopence each, also some fruit worth about as much. I +seized these and hurried back to the carriage, passengers and +people looking on and the waiters seemed to think I must be an +escaped lunatic. Well! I reached our carriage just as the +train was moving out. What would have happened if I had +been left behind I do not care to think. “All’s +well that ends well.” So we got at least something +that would keep soul and body together until we could get a +proper meal. We had decided to stop at Genoa, but my wife +said “well, now Nurse is going right through to Rome, let +us keep her company.” So we decided not to remain at +Genoa, but to go right through; that meant twenty-four hours in +the train. As we were approaching Genoa we could see lovely +vine-clad slopes, also the hills, the rivers and lakes, the +landscapes, lovely beyond my power to describe.</p> +<p>Genoa is a very fine city. I felt I could say of it as +is said of the City of Jerusalem. Beautiful for situation +is Genoa. Here we found we should have time for dinner; +twenty minutes being allowed. We left <a +name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>our +carriage—now I had two nurses to take care of—we had +to go under some arches, and across several platforms, to get to +the buffet; this took us five minutes out of the twenty. We +found, to our extreme satisfaction, a table-de-hote fully set +out. Soup was laid out and waiting; waiters plenty. +No sooner one course was over, another was before +us—chicken, fish, saddle of mutton, pastry, ices, and more +than we needed—so that in ten minutes we had well satisfied +the inner man. Cigars were lying on the counter, and each +passenger having dinner just helped himself, also to as much +fruit as we could conveniently take. We were also helping +ourselves to Post Cards but these, we were reminded, we must pay +for as extra. So we scampered back with all speed. +Never, I think, did a dinner of eight courses disappear so +quickly. We had no time to explore the town, and we could +only get glimpses of it from the train going in. It is +called “le Superb.” Has some of the finest +churches in Italy; is also a city of Commerce, of Shipping. +It is a garrisoned city, and has fortifications considered +impregnable. It is a city of palaces. Also has a +picture gallery containing some fine paintings by the old +masters, one by Guercino, in the very best colouring, +“Virgin and Child.” This has been a favourite +subject <a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>of +the Artists, as both in oils and in marble and stone, this +subject is prominent. “The Flight into Egypt” +is another favourite. These, however, we had not the +pleasure of seeing, so we could only have the pleasure of knowing +we had been near them. We left Genoa about 9 p.m.; it was +quite dark, and so sultry we could hardly bear the heat of the +atmosphere. We hutched up into our corners to try to sleep, +but with the rattle of the train, the screams of the baby, and +the impatience of the mother, we could not sleep, at least I +could not. I think my wife got a little sleep. So did +the nurse, our travelling companion. Before midnight, there +broke over us a thunder storm. The lightning was so vivid I +could clearly see the objects we passed, and it continued for +several hours. We passed the leaning tower of Pisa before +daylight broke in upon us, we were also getting too tired to +enjoy the look out when the day broke.</p> +<p>As we sped on we expected to see the City of Rome about 10 +a.m. At last the vision burst upon our view. Rome at +last. Yes, certainly, there is the proud City. Its +towers, spires and domes, and minarets, all glistening in the +morning sun. The monuments and ruins of this city still +standing testifies to the greatness of its past history. +The gigantic Colosseum to the humblest of ruins, everything <a +name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>in Rome is +eloquent in the language of history. We soon hunted up our +luggage, and made our way out of the carriage to the +platform. After a few words with our companion, the Nurse, +we separated. She was expecting to be met, and we were +anxious to get to our hotel. This time we had chosen the +“Grand Hotel Continental,” and finding their +’bus at the station we were soon conveyed to our +destination.</p> +<p>The hotel was certainly of a high-class order, and very +extensive. The grand saloon for dining was most costly +furnished. Mirrors and paintings on the walls gave +brilliancy and attractiveness to the scene. The lecture +room, the smoke room, the reading room, were all most luxuriantly +fitted up. The bed rooms also were sweet and clean. +Abundance of lavatories, bathrooms, lifts, etc., make the place a +comfortable home from home. After having fixed our number +(I mean the number of our bed room, this was always our first +business at a fresh hotel) we had breakfast, then a bath, for we +had no opportunity of even a good wash since leaving Chambery +twenty-four hours ago. We were needing it badly. An +ample supply of hot water for the bath, towels ready to hand, +soap we carried with us. We thought it strange, but we +found it true, the hotels don’t find soap. This <a +name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>reminds me of +Mark Twain’s position when in Italy, in his +“Innocents Abroad.” He says, “We have had +a bath in Milan, in a public house. They were going to put +all three of us in one bath tub, but we objected. We chose +to have three tubs, and large ones—tubs suited to the +dignity of aristocrats who had real estate, and brought it with +them. After we were stripped and had taken the first chilly +dash, we discovered that haunting atrocity that has embittered +our lives in so many cities and villages of Italy, there was no +soap. I called. A woman answered and I barely had +time to throw myself against the door, before she would have been +in, in another second. I said, ‘Beware, woman! +Go away from here—go away, now, or it will be worse for +you. I am an unprotected male, but I will preserve my +honour at the peril of my life.’” We had a good +bath, then to bed for a few hours, as we had had hardly any sleep +in the train. We rose about 2.30 p.m. refreshed, and after +lunch we prepared for a stroll or ride to see the sights of this +wonderful city. We soon found it is a wonderful city. +The ancient and the modern are seen at almost every point. +And yet you seem to feel there is no jar on your taste or +feeling.</p> +<h2><a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +36</span>CHAPTER V.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Visit to the Forum and the Colosseum: Crossing +the Tiber: Castle of St. Angelo: Palace of Justice: +Trajan’s Column: Garibaldi’s Monument: The Appian +Way: St. Peter’s: Its magnitude and magnificence: Michael +Angelo’s work.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p36.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Christian martyrs in the Colosseum, Rome" +title= +"Christian martyrs in the Colosseum, Rome" +src="images/p36.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Our first visit was to the Colosseum. Among the many +sights of Rome none give us a better idea of its ancient +civilisation than the Forum and the Colosseum. The heart of +the great Roman Empire throbbed in the Forum. Here was, at +one time, the Senate, the market, the courts, indeed, it was the +very centre of the life of Rome. As we gazed upon the +ruins, the vast marble columns, still standing, its broken +arches, and gables in ruins, it needed no great stretch of the +imagination to fancy we were back to the palmy days of Rome, and +the Forum is ringing with the cheers of the vast populace who +have sat under Cicero’s eloquence; or, we fancy we can hear +the tramp of Roman legions as they return from some nightly +conquest, passing the gates of this remarkable building. +The ground it covered would be <a name="page37"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 37</span>about 250,000 square feet. +These, of course, embraced the market place, the rostrum, several +temples, and the triumphal arch. The whole building was of +marble, and with its marvellous architecture, it must, in its +glory, have presented a striking appearance. The Palace of +Cæsar stands just behind. We had a chance of seeing a +little of the gardens, once belonging to this palace. +Enough of the remains serve to show something of the wealth and +luxury of those ancient Emperors. I took two snap-shots of +a part of the ruins of this wonderful place. In my +photograph the marble columns are seen to be standing, and they +are where they have stood for the last fifteen hundred years at +least. From here to the Colosseum, no less wonderful than +the Forum, we then made our way. The first view of it +filled us with awe. In its ruins it is awfully grand. +It must surely be the most imposing ruin in Rome, and it is the +most historically interesting relic of ruin in the world. +Vespasian began to build it in the year 72 <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span>, and the Emperor Titus completed it +in the year 80 <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> +Historians tell us it was built by the forced labour of Jews and +Christians. Its architect, they tell us, was one +“Gaudentius,” who afterwards became a Christian, and +died a martyr within the walls he himself had planned and helped +to build. <a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +38</span>Originally it would hold in all 100,000 people, and +90,000 could be seated in its vast galleries and rooms. It +would cover, apparently, about six acres of land. Down to +the sixth century it remained in its beauty undiminished, and +little decayed. Inside the vast building was a fine statue +of Nero. The extreme length of the walls outside are about +six hundred feet, and the width nearly five hundred feet. +There was originally a portico carried round the whole building, +adorned with gilded columns, while statues of the finest marble +filled the arcades, and there were rich awnings of silk for a +protection from the sun’s heat. It is stated the +carnival lasted for several weeks, and no less than five thousand +wild beasts, some from the Indian Jungles, and some from the +African morasses took part. These terrible gladiator fights +were the amusements for the aristocracy of Italy, and were +attended by stately courtiers and the nobles of the land. +We saw the bars still standing in the ruins, behind which the +wild beasts lurked, waiting to be turned into the arena to fight +with gladiators, i.e., men trained, who with their lives in their +hands were prepared for this terrible ordeal. If they came +out with the trophy they were applauded, and with honours +escorted through the streets of Rome.</p> +<p> +<a href="images/p38.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"The Roman Forum, Rome" +title= +"The Roman Forum, Rome" +src="images/p38.jpg" /> +</a>Sometimes, at the <a name="page39"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 39</span>bidding of the wicked Emperor Nero, +one hundred Christians would be brought into the arena, when a +vast crowd would be present to watch four or five lions and as +many tigers turned in, wild with fury, and mad with hunger, the +Christian martyrs were soon delivered from their fleshly tenement +and went up to their reward. It is said that St. Ignatius +was brought from Antioch to be devoured by these wild +beasts. Church traditions record many martyrs within these +now ruins. Byron says:</p> +<blockquote><p>“I see before me the Gladiator lie;<br /> +He leans upon his hand, his manly brow<br /> +Consents to death, but conquers agony.<br /> +The arena swims around him, he is gone<br /> +E’er ceased the inhuman shout which hailed the wretch who +won.<br /> +He heard it, but he heeded not; his eyes<br /> +Were with his heart, and that was far away.<br /> +There were his young barbarians all at play.<br /> +There was their Dacian mother—he their sire<br /> +Butchered to make a Roman holiday.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Or Keble:</p> +<blockquote><p>“And now the gratings ope, with hideous +roar<br /> +Leap forth those hungry brutes, while kneel in prayer,<br /> +Those heaps of Christians, how their spirits soar<br /> +Above or wounds or death.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>I stood +and gazed, and thought, by those terrible ruins. I think I +was as much affected as when I stood and gazed upon those +marvellous structures, the Pyramids of Egypt. I took a +snap-shot of my dear little wife within the ruins of the +Colosseum, and we left it to ponder over its history and its +ruin. We thought of the prophecy in prose of an Anglo-Saxon +Pilgrim. He said: “While stands the Colosseum, Rome +shall stand; when falls the Colosseum, Rome shall fall. And +when Rome falls—the world.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p40.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Pantheon, Rome" +title= +"The Pantheon, Rome" +src="images/p40.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>“The Pantheon” was one of the places we were +delighted with. This dated from before Christ’s time, +and is now in a wonderful state of preservation. It was +originally dedicated by Agrippa to “All the +gods.” It was consecrated as a church in the year 610 +<span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> by Pope Boniface IV., under +the name of St. Maria. The portico consists of sixteen +granite corinthian columns nearly forty feet high, eight in the +front and the others in three colonnades. Inside, we were +struck with its beauty, especially by the arrangement for light +which comes from a vast dome over our heads. We walked +reverently as we knew we were walking on the very same pavement +as Augustus and Agrippa, and others whose dust has long centuries +ago, gone to its mother earth. Here rest the remains of one +of the <a name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +41</span>world’s greatest painters—Raphael. He +was buried in 1620. In recent years a doubt was raised as +to whether he really was buried here, and a search was allowed +and made in 1833, it was then ascertained beyond the shadow of a +doubt that he was buried here, as his remains were intact. +On leaving the Pantheon, and before crossing the Tiber, we were +reminded of the poet’s words referring to this church: +“Simple, erect, austere, sublime—Shrine of all saints +and temple of all gods from Jove to Jesus—Spared and blest +by time, looking tranquilly while falls or nods arch, empire, +each thing round thee, and man plods his way through thorns and +ashes—glorious dome! shalt thou not last? +Times’ scythe and tyrant’s rods shiver upon +thee—Sanctuary and home of art and +piety—Pantheon! Pride of Rome.”</p> +<p>After crossing the Tiber on one of its many wonderful bridges, +adorned on each side by statues in stone of the celebrities of +all ages, we found that just opposite this bridge is what is +called the Castle of St. Angelo. An immense pile, circular +in form, on its summit a large monument, and in front a clock of +very large dimensions. It was erected by the Emperor +Adrian, and intended to be for his own tomb and those of +succeeding kings or emperors. We did not go inside, but we +<a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>learned it +was fitted and filled with the finest works of art, specially +that in marble finished by the sculptor’s chisel. +From here we started to drive to our hotel, for we were satiated +with the wonderful sights of Rome. We passed the Palace of +Justice, a modern building, indeed, only just having the +finishing touches put upon it. It is of granite, the size +is immense and the appearance noble. As we passed, churches +and theatres seemed to be numerous. Gay and grave, sad and +happy, new and old. There “Beeston Humber Motor +Cycle” advertised. There the ruins of a building that +had stood for a thousand years.</p> +<p>The Column of Trajan calls for a passing note. It is a +fine specimen of the Doric order, and very fortunately it is in a +good state of preservation. On three sides of the pedestal +there are bas-reliefs, on the fourth side is an inscription to +Trajan’s tomb. On the column are over 20 very fine +carvings, representing the various wars in which he had taken +part. On the top is a fine statue of the Apostle St. +Peter. As we stood and looked upon this ancient monument +and thought of the fact that it had stood there for well nigh on +2,000 years, we re-called the words of a poet who represents +fairly the condition of things in Trajan’s day.</p> +<p><a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>B. E. +H. Plumbtree says:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Through haughty Rome’s imperial +street<br /> +The mighty Trajan rode,<br /> +And myrrh and balm and spices sweet<br /> +In silver censers glowed;<br /> +In car of state erect he stood,<br /> +And round him rushing like a flood<br /> +The people poured with shout and song,<br /> +And every eye through all that throng<br /> +Turned to him with delight.<br /> +For he had triumphed far and wide,<br /> +Had sated Rome’s high-soaring pride,<br /> +And, laying captive nations low,<br /> +Now dragged the pale and trembling foe<br /> +Bent down in sore affright.<br /> +And still before him spread afar<br /> +New pathways for his conquering car,<br /> +More crowns of world-wide fame to win<br /> +’Mid shouts of warriors battle din:<br /> +One triumph being o’er he spurned<br /> +And still his fevered spirit burned<br /> +New realms, new worlds to gain.<br /> +And still his legions on he led,<br /> +Legions that ne’er from foe had fled,<br /> +The glory of his reign.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We left the mighty column standing in its solitary grandeur, a +memorial of man’s achievement, while yet other things +around us testified to the instability of all earthly <a +name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>things. +“Change and decay in all around I see.”</p> +<p>We reached our hotel tired and hungry. We, however, soon +found the value of a good wash, then a good table-de-hote meal, +and then to write up our diaries and think of the day’s +experiences, then to go to rest. After a good night’s +sleep we rose refreshed. Had a good wash, then +breakfast. After letters, postcards, etc., we prepared for +further investigations of the great city. We went out, but +no sooner did we appear in the great square facing our hotel, +when, I should think, at least a dozen cabmen turned their horses +heads towards us, asking for our patronage. We could only +hire one, so we had choice and it fell upon a decent looking +man—the very picture of a son of Italy—with a very +good looking horse. This time we drove to the mound upon +which stands the noble monument to General Garibaldi, the statue +of one of Italy’s noblest heroes and patriots. +Garibaldi was born at Nice in 1807. His family were quite +obscure, and without name or fame. His father had a small +coasting vessel, and to this, probably, is due something of the +adventurous spirit of his son. When he had attained his +manhood, he went to Genoa and then to Rome. <a +name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>Here he +joined a band called “Young Italy,” and as a member +of this band he was indicted for treason and sentenced to +death.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p44.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Garibaldi’s Monument, Rome" +title= +"Garibaldi’s Monument, Rome" +src="images/p44.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>By some means he escaped this sentence and fled to Marseilles +in France. From here to South America, and here he joined +the army and fought against Brazil. He became a most +adventurous and daring leader. In 1848 he returned to Italy +with a view to give himself to the army of Italy. They, +however, did not receive him with the cordiality he +deserved. He, however, raised an army of 1,500 brave men, +like-minded with himself, and went against the Austrians, who +were threatening Italy severely and dangerously. He showed +skill and bravery on the field of battle, and so attracted the +notice of Victor Immanuel, who with his own hand fastened on the +hero’s breast the gold medal for military bravery. He +became the idol of the nation of Italy, as General Gordon might +be called the hero of the Soudan. So Garibaldi may be +called the hero of Italy, and as in Gordon’s case, riches, +titles, conventional distinctions were as nothing, so in the case +of this illustrious soldier and hero. He had the honour of +a seat in the Parliament of Italy in 1875. The latter part +of his life was spent in retirement, and he died suddenly in the +year 1882. And here to his memory is erected, in the very +heart of the Eternal City, a splendid <a name="page46"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 46</span>monument. His life-sized figure +in bronze on a fine charger, while around the monument are +bas-reliefs of great interest. From this high elevation we +had a good view of the city and of the river Tiber, which is +about equal to our river Trent for width, it is spanned in +several places by bridges. Here we could look down the +Appian Way. It would not be difficult, standing here, to +imagine just away at yonder port, some ten or twelve miles away, +a shipwrecked crew has landed its cargo of grain; also some +soldiers with three prisoners, amongst them is Paul, the great +apostle to the Gentiles. He is chained to a soldier; they +come along the Appian Way, where we are just looking—a road +that had often rung with the plaudits to the victors in many a +hard fought fight. A strange sight to see this poor man, +without money, friends, or influence. Yet he was the true +conqueror of Rome. He said truly “God hath chosen the +foolish things of the world to confound the wise; and God hath +chosen the weak things of the world to confound the things that +are mighty.” Cor., chapter I, verse 27. St. +Paul says again: “And so we went towards Rome, and from +thence, when the brethren heard of us, they came to meet us as +far as Appii forum, and the three taverns: whom when Paul saw, he +thanked God, and <a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +47</span>took courage.” Acts, chapter 28, verses 14 +& 15. Paul is allowed to speak for himself, having +appealed to Cæsar. “And Paul dwelt two whole +years in his own hired house, and received all that came to him, +preaching the Kingdom of God, and teaching those things which +concern the Lord Jesus Christ.”</p> +<p>Up this Way, it is likely, Titus brought up the spoils he had +taken in his overthrow of the City of Jerusalem. The spoils +consisted of the “Ark of the Covenant,” overlaid +round about with gold, the golden pot that had manna, “and +Aaron’s rod that budded.” Heb., chapter 9, +verse 4. From this vantage ground we could see Rome, regal +Rome, republican Rome, and in the distance St. Peter’s and +the Vatican, and many hundreds of other churches and prominent +buildings which hold the records of ecclesiastical Rome.</p> +<p>We visited, of course, the grand church or cathedral of St. +Peter. This is the one thing we <i>must</i> see. This +is the goal of millions of pious pilgrims from all lands, and at +all seasons. I noticed in our illustrated papers of about +November, 1908, the Pope had been celebrating his fifty years of +priesthood, there was a great procession of thirty-six Cardinals, +four hundred Bishops, fifty thousand spectators, and St. +Peter’s offerings were asked for by His Holiness for +chalices for the poorer <a name="page48"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 48</span>churches. The Duchess of +Norfolk presented £500 as a response. The Pope was +carried shoulder high in the Sedia Gestoria, over the heads of +the vast masses, and as he was borne aloft, he bestowed his +blessings on all sides, and amongst all classes of people. +Passing over or through the vast throng he was placed on his +golden throne, whence he grants his indulgences and extends to +his flock sympathy and prayers.</p> +<p>When we got within sight of the noble building we were +constrained to stand still and look and let our thoughts and +feelings have full play, for just then they were of a very mixed +character, as we thought of Rome and its history, of this +building and its surroundings, and what it meant. At the +entrance we could see right through the large Piazza or Square, +in the centre of which is an obelisk, I think Egyptian in +character. On either side are fountains throwing their +sparkling waters from almost innumerable jets. Then there +are colonnades also, and 284 columns, each column is about +40-feet high, and on the column a statue about 16-feet high, +these give an idea of the vastness of the building beyond. +The obelisk in St. Peter’s Square weighs 3,270 +tons—it is said that the ship that brought it from Egypt +was so large that the Emperor Claudius had it sunk at the <a +name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 49</span>mouth of the +Tiber to serve as part of the foundations for the outward wall of +the Port of Ostia, in the year 39 <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p48.jpg"> +<img alt= +"St. Peter’s, Rome" +title= +"St. Peter’s, Rome" +src="images/p48.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>It was left until the year 1566 before orders were given by +Pope Sextus to have it placed in this square. At the top of +this great obelisk is a cross which is said to be a part of the +real cross on which our Lord and Saviour was crucified. +Passing this outward display of grandeur in the shape of +statuary, columns and colonnades, we reached the steps leading up +to the vestibule, these are massive marble steps, with colossal +statues of St. Peter and St. Paul at the foot. It is said +that this is the largest and the most costly church in the +world. It was built on the site of the Emperor Nero’s +circus, which was the scene of the most terrible martyrdoms, and +it is also said to be the place where St. Peter was buried after +his crucifixion. About the year 106 <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span>, history tells us there was a +monument erected here to mark the site of St. Peter’s +tomb. Earlier a basilica was founded on this spot, which +stood for over one thousand years, then showing signs of decay +(and one cannot wonder at it). Nicholas V., in 1447, +decided to erect one larger and better in its place.</p> +<h2><a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +50</span>CHAPTER VI.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Rome continued: St. Peter’s building: +St. Peter’s Statue: St. Peter’s resting place: The +vast Columns, Pictures, Fonts, Confessionals, etc.: The Vatican: +The Professional Letter Writer: The Arch of Titus: Statue of +Nero, etc.</p> +<p>This decision, however, he never carried out, but in the year +1506, Julian II. laid the foundation of this vast church we are +now about to enter. The first architect died while the work +was in its early stages. Then Raphael, with two other +architects, were appointed, and these also died during the +building. Michael Angelo, who was then between seventy and +eighty years of age, was selected to superintend the work. +He is credited with the designing of that marvellous dome and +cross, but did not live to see it completed. Indeed, not +less than fifteen architects succeeded one another during the +time of its building, and twenty-eight Popes reigned before it +was completed (a time of 176 years). Its actual completion +was not until 1784, a term of 278 years.</p> +<p>Carlo Fountana estimates the cost at <a +name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +51</span>£11,000,000. He states that it required +400,000 lbs. of bronze to form the statue of St. Peter inside the +cathedral. The whole area is 240,000 square feet; when this +is stated one may form some faint idea of the magnitude of the +building. There are within and without the building columns +in marble to the number of 756; 245 are inside. There are +46 altars and 121 lamps, most of them are kept burning night and +day. One hundred and thirty-two Popes have been buried +here, if you count as they do from St. Peter on to the last Pope +who passed away. It is stated that the cost of keeping the +place in repair is over £6,000 per year. Our first +view of the Nave as we entered, created such a feeling of awe and +reverence, that like the Queen of Sheba, of whom it is said, +“when she saw the glory of Solomon there was no more spirit +in her.” “And behold the half was not told +me.” I. Kings, chapter 10, verses 5 and 7. I +gazed with awe and admiration at one time on the marvellous +Niagara Falls, and the sight seemed to bring me into the very +presence of the great Creator, God. And now, to gaze upon +works of such a colossal magnitude and of such a costly +character, made us feel subdued and reverent. I may safely +assume, I think, that every one will not see it just as we saw +it; I mean they <a name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +52</span>will interpret its meaning differently. We were +some time before we came to realize the fact that it was of such +extraordinary proportions. Looking at the cherubs which +support the fonts that contain holy water, at first you think +they are models of children, but when you come beside them you +find they are much larger than ordinary grown-up people. On +the floor we noticed there are stars or marks telling the length +of the building as compared with other large cathedrals. +St. Paul’s in London, is here given as 516-feet long, the +Cathedral in Milan as 440-feet, the Cathedral in Florence is +given as 495-feet, St. Peter’s, at Bologna, 440-feet, and +St. Sophia, at Constantinople, 364-feet, while this St. +Peter’s is 619-feet in length. On your right hand +passing up the nave is the gigantic statue of St. Peter in +bronze, which, with the foot held out slightly, I suppose +millions of visitors from all nations and peoples and tongues +have stooped to kiss the large toe, which, in consequence, is +worn seriously out of shape. Some have gone so far as to +say that this is the statue of Jupiter, only it has been slightly +altered to suit its present purpose. I think it is Dean +Swift who said (in a joke) “that the difference between the +ancient and modern Rome was, that the one was the worshipper of +Jupiter, and the other the worshipper of <a +name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>Jew +Peter.” As we stood beside this image in bronze and +looked to the right—the confessional to the left—the +confessional. Visitors in kneeling posture before an image +of the Virgin, another before a picture. Another walks up +to the font and crosses his forehead with holy water, we felt +that we could not but pity these poor deluded souls in bondage to +a priestly intolerance, when they might have had the real liberty +of the children of God.</p> +<p>Above this great statue of St. Peter, sitting in a chair of +marble, in the act of blessing the people, is a portrait in +mosaic of Pope Pius IX., and an inscription which states that he +is the only Pope whose years of pontificate are more than were +those of St. Peter. In the niches around the pillars which +support the cupola are some very fine specimens of statuary, and +above these are several small galleries which contain the Holy +Relics, these are shown to the public on the great festive +days. There are sixteen windows round the cupola, and over +these are sixteen richly gilded pillars, between each of these +are beautiful mosaics representing Popes and Bishops buried in +the church, also of the Virgin Mary, Jesus Christ, and the +Apostles. Over the High Altar under the cupola, where the +Pope alone has the right to say Mass, rises a very costly canopy +of <a name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>bronze, +supported by four spiral columns of richly gilded bronze about +60-feet high, including the cross. The Altar is placed in +such a position that the Pope saying Mass, faces the +people. Under the Altar is St. Peter’s tomb; a double +flight of steps of Greek marble lead down to it, and at the +bottom is a statue of one of the Popes kneeling; at the sides are +four large columns of alabaster, and above these are two pillars +of agate with the statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. The +place in which St. Peter’s ashes rest, and that forms part +of the oratory, is covered with the most costly marble. +When Peter said “silver and gold have I none,” Acts. +chapter 3, verse 6, he could not have had the least idea of the +costliness of his resting place in Rome.</p> +<p>All things seem to be provided for the purpose of a worship +meant to captivate the senses by its external splendour and +beauty, until the very object of religion, the cultivation of the +Christian virtues, which are meekness and humility, are forgotten +in the magnificence of a priesthood of princes, combining their +splendour and luxuries with their duties. On all sides we +see monuments to Popes and Bishops; such as one to Pope Innocent +XII., with fine bas-reliefs in marble. The Pope +Gregory’s monument which has some fine sculpture on it in +marble. Another wing of <a name="page55"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 55</span>this huge building designed by +Michael Angelo contains an altar enriched with alabaster, +amethyst, and other precious stones. Over the altar is an +image of the Madonna that is greatly venerated, as it is supposed +to have been brought here from one of the early churches. +Altars, crosses, and confessionals confront you wherever you go +in this great cathedral; also, pictures adorn the walls where +there is no sculpture. St. Peter raising Tabitha from the +dead. See Acts, chapter 9, verse 40. “But Peter +put them all forth and kneeling down prayed; and turning to the +body, said, ‘Tabitha, arise,’ and she opened her +eyes, and when she saw Peter she sat up.”</p> +<p>Two porphry steps lead to the Tribune, about fifty yards long, +where there is another altar, and over it four colossal bronze +statues; on the right, the tomb of Urban VIII., on the left, that +of Paul III. In one of the wings of this building there are +eleven confessionals for strangers, and inscriptions indicating +the nationality or language. On all sides we saw these +relics of popery until we were sick of it. We could not +visit the grottos, as time did not permit, we were very desirous +of making a visit to the Vatican, but we could not for the same +reason. We gathered from information gained in various +ways, that the Vatican or Pope’s Palace is <a +name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>the largest +palace in the world. The Pope is allowed from Italy about +£130,000 per annum, and the Peter’s pence, from many +lands, amounts to as much as £20,000 per annum. The +Vatican contains 11,000 rooms, there are also 22 court +yards. The ground it covers is the size of a town. +The museums, the picture galleries, the statues in marble, are +worth many millions of pounds. It is enriched with bronzes, +marble columns, and the best things that can be had from all +lands. Paintings of the very richest and highest class from +all the old masters. Massive gold and silver goblets, the +gifts of kings and of princes. Ancient relics from Assyria +and from Egypt. Some Egyptian mummies in sarcophagi with +hieroglyphics, indicating the locality from whence they +came. In the library are 26,000 manuscripts, about 19,000 +are in Latin, 4,000 in Greek, and about 2,000 in the Eastern and +Oriental languages, besides about 50,000 printed volumes. +In one of the halls there is a bible of the fifth century, which +is a great rarity. The gifts from kings, emperors, princes, +presidents of almost all lands, which have been sent to the Pope +are too many to name or specify. We left St. Peter’s, +pleased with some things, grieved with others. The +greatness of Rome’s intellectual power; her art in +sculpture and painting; proofs of this <a name="page57"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 57</span>we saw on all hands. She had, +at one time, over 400 temples, most of them with floors of +marble, great domes with wonderful frescoes, gorgeous beyond +anything we could conceive if we had not seen it. Walls of +marble, porphyry, jasper, precious stones, stones polished till +they shine like a mirror. Pictures, priceless and +innumerable. All this, side by side with the degradation of +the people, as seen in their daily visit to the confessional; or +to the holy water; or to seek a mass from the priest for some +friend in sickness; or a more important one for the soul of some +brother, sister, or friend in the agony of purgatory, and who +must remain there until certain masses are said. All this +means the lowering of the poor to the enriching of the +rich. Rome, I say, is to be pitied in this thing, under the +heel of the Pope. Her wealth is lavished on churches, +priests, cardinals, etc., but her poor abound on all hands. +At the very church door you have the extremes of lavish wealth in +church decoration, and extreme poverty in many worshippers. +We had a view of the Vatican from without; it seems one vast area +of palaces, churches, temples, galleries, colonnades, etc. +I suppose we have some fine palaces in England; there are some, I +believe, in France, Germany, in Egypt; but nowhere in the world +is there a palace so large <a name="page58"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 58</span>and costly as the Pope’s Palace +in Rome. How unlike his divine Lord, “who had not +where to lay His Head,” or his predecessor (allowing the +expression) who said, “silver and gold have I +none.” Mark Twain says of the place: “It is a +perfect wilderness of statues, paintings, and curiosities of +every description and every age. The old masters fairly +swarm there. I shall remember the Transfiguration, by +Raphael, because it was in a room by itself, and partly because +it is acknowledged by all to be the first oil painting in the +world. It is fine in tone and feeling, it is a beauty, it +is fascinating. Acres and acres of walls and ceilings +fairly papered with them. There is one thing I am certain +of, with all the Michael Angelo’s, the Raphael’s, the +Guido’s, and the old masters, the sublime history of Rome +remains unpainted! They painted Virgins enough, Popes +enough, and saintly scarecrows enough to people Paradise +almost.”</p> +<p>Leaving the great St. Peter’s and the Vatican to return +to our hotel for dinner, we noticed the mixed crowds jostling one +another in the streets. The men seemed to be broad +shouldered, and their rugged bronze faces and dark piercing eyes +give you an idea that they look upon you with curiosity. +Men dressed in home-spun blue cloth as a rule. The <a +name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 59</span>women dress +in colours, no unusual thing to see them apparently enjoying a +feed of raw onions and salad with a good square piece of black +bread. Here we passed a professional letter writer, sitting +in the open-air in the street with a table before him on which +are pens, ink and paper. Here he is ready to read or write +letters for the unlearned, and they are by no means few in the +city of Rome. Many a declaration of passionate love must +have been whispered into the ear of this old Italian, to be +transmitted to some village maiden on the mountain heights, or in +some sequestered village. A rustic approaches the old +scribe as we watch him, he has received an epistle from some +Italian beauty far away. As he waits his turn he looks over +the precious documents with wandering eyes. Oh! if only he +could himself spell out its sacred contents. His cheeks are +flushed, his heart throbs as he hands the paper to the scribe; +and, as the old man reads, the smile plays upon his face, his +dark eyes brighten with delight. Yes! she is true to the +boy who is far away, what a joy to know their hearts beat in +unison and in passionate love. What a strange task! that of +the Italian scribe. Sometimes his task is to read letters +that tell of separations by death; the scalding tear, the heart +throbs, tell of grief and anguish, a life’s hope crushed <a +name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 60</span>out. A +dear mother, sister or lover passed away. All these +experiences go through the old scribe’s hands daily. +Young Italy, however, is awaking to her need as a nation, for +education and for the training of the young.</p> +<p>Our hotel is our home of rest, and we certainly enjoyed it +after hours of travel and inspection. Sights seen that we +had never dreamed of. Pictures, sculpture, arch, column, +colonnades, so profuse and so attractive that we forgot we were +tired until we turned away for a break and a rest.</p> +<p>Again, we are on the tram, and down one of the principal +boulevards, past shops, bazaars, cafes, hotels and churches, to +the Pont du Angelo, over the Tiber. This is a lovely piece +of workmanship, built of solid masonry, and on the pont, or +bridge, there are six statues on each side on pedestals, +representing the various architects, sculptors and painters of +ancient Rome, and as we crossed the bridge, right in front of us +we saw the castle of St. Angelo, erected by one of the Emperors +for his own tomb, and for the tombs of his successors. As +most of the important buildings in Rome, it is lavishly decorated +with marble sculpture, more fitted for a palace than for a +mausoleum. +<a href="images/p60.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"The Arch of Titus, Rome" +title= +"The Arch of Titus, Rome" +src="images/p60.jpg" /> +</a>In the tenth century it was turned into a fortress and fell +into the hands of the <a name="page61"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 61</span>barons, who, during a long time, made +use of it against the city itself. It is said that Clement +VII. took refuge in it in the year 1527. To-day it is a +beautiful temple. The floor is very largely composed of +Italian marble; on the staircase, on our right on entering, is a +fine statue of Michael the arch-angel, in a niche. In +another room are some fine paintings by Pierin; another room +still retains some of the implements of torture of the +Inquisition. On the top stands the bronze statue of the +arch-angel Michael, placed there in 1770; it is said it is placed +there in memory of a vision of St. Gregory the Great. +According to tradition, when Rome was severely visited by a +pestilence, and while the Pope was going in procession to St. +Peter’s, to obtain the cessation of the scourge, he saw, on +arriving at this bridge, an angel on the top of the mausoleum, in +the act of replacing his sword in its sheath, as a sign that the +visitation of the scourge was at an end. On account of this +the castle was named “The Castle of the Holy +Angel.” “The Arch of Titus” is another +fine specimen of the builders’ art. Erected to him by +the people in homage of his great victory in Palestine over the +Hebrews, and of the destruction of the Holy City of Jerusalem, in +the year 79 <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span>, and consecrated +to his memory by his successor in the year 81 <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> <a name="page62"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 62</span>It has somewhat suffered by the ages +that have passed over it; still, it is marvellous that it has so +long withstood the ravages of the iron tooth of time. There +is a fine frieze in the inside and some fine bas-reliefs. +One, that of the Hebrew prisoners, and Titus’ triumphal +march to Rome. In Macaulay’s we find the following +verses, evidently written on the subject of Titus’ +victory:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Valerius struck at Titus and lopped off +half his crest,<br /> +But Titus stabbed Valerius, a span deep in his breast.<br /> +Like a mast snapped by the tempest, Valerius reeled and fell.<br +/> +Ah! woe is me for the good house that loves the people well!<br +/> +Then shouted loud the Latins, and with one rush they bore<br /> +The struggling Romans backward, three lances length or more:</p> +<p>And up they took proud Tarquin, and laid him on the shield,<br +/> +And four strong yeomen bore him, still senseless from the +field.<br /> +But fiercer grew the fighting around Valerius dead,<br /> +For Titus dragged him by the foot, and Anlus by the head.<br /> +<a name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>Twice +tenfold round the body the roar of battle rose<br /> +Like the roar of a burning forest, when a strong north wind +blows.</p> +<p>Now backward and now forward, rocked furiously the fray,<br /> +Till none could see Valerius, and none knew where he lay.<br /> +For shivered arms and ensigns were heaped there in a mound,<br /> +And corpses stiff, and dying men, that writhed upon the +ground,<br /> +And wounded horses kicking, and snorting purple foam,<br /> +Right well did such a couch befit a Consular of Rome.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>There are also, in this palace, the seven-branched +candlesticks, and many other objects taken from the Temple of the +Holy City.</p> +<p>Next we saw the triumphal arch of Constantine (the first +Christian Emperor of Rome), this seems to be the best preserved +of all the arches we saw, although now it has been standing since +311 <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> We learned it was +erected by the people of Rome in honour of the great victory +achieved over Maxentius at Ponte Mollo. The central arcade +is about thirty-feet high, the side ones are about +twenty-feet. There are four beautiful columns <a +name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>of Corinthian +marble which support the pillars upon which stand some fine +statuary representing some of the “Dacian prisoners,” +“Trajan’s entry into Rome after his victory in the +east,” “The rest on the Appian Way,” +“Trajan bringing help and succour to the poor +children,” “Trajan speaking to his +soldiers.” Under these are bas-reliefs which +represent hunts and sacrifices. On the opposite side of the +street we noticed a large pedestal which we were told held, in +ancient times, a colossal statue of Nero, executed in +bronze. After his death it was thrown down and replaced by +another called “The god of the sun.” This, +however, has been allowed to fall into decay; the iron tooth of +time has done its work, and only the pedestal remains.</p> +<p>The Navona Square or Piazza calls for a remark or two, it is +the next largest to St. Peter’s. There are three fine +fountains in the square, These seem to be of a modern design and +workmanship. One represents Neptune coping with a sea +monster, surrounded by sea horses. In the basin rises a +kind of rock; on the four sides of which are representations of +“The Danube,” for Europe; “The Ganges,” +for Asia; “The Nile,” for Africa; and the “Rio +de la Plata,” for America. The rock is surmounted by +a very neatly-cut obelisk. The first and largest fountain +is about 100-feet <a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +65</span>high, and when in play has a very beautiful +effect. The Church of St. Mary is but a plain looking +building from the outside. We approached with little +interest, but when we got inside we found it to be a perfect +museum of painting and sculpture; also, there are many tombs of +celebrated cardinals. The guide showed us a picture said to +be the work of St. Luke, and in all seriousness, told us it was +supposed to have the power to work miracles still. We did +not stay to ask whether that power was ever evoked. There +is a chapel inside, the architecture of which was planned by +Raphael. The design of big mosaics on the vault of the dome +is simply marvellous. There is a representation of the +heavenly bodies in their fullest splendour; also a fine statue of +Jonah by Raphael. There is attached to this church a +monastery, in which reside the monks of the Order of St. +Augustine. It is said to have been the residence of the +famous Martin Luther, during his visit to Rome. He entered +the city through the Porto del Popolo, and knelt down as soon as +he had passed the gate, crying most sincerely, “I salute +thee, Oh! holy Rome!—Rome, venerable through the blood and +the tombs of the martyrs.” And then he went +straightway to the convent, and there he celebrated mass. +And after the experiences he went <a name="page66"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 66</span>through during his stay in the city, +what he had seen, and what he had heard—he said, on passing +again through the same gate out, with bitterness and grief, +“Adieu, Oh! City, where everything is permitted, but to be +a good man.” Every place we visited brought some +reminders of the sad fall of the papacy from real +Christianity.</p> +<p>To the Berbine picture gallery, was a visit which gave us much +pleasure, as we saw pictures from the ablest of artists. +The paintings by Michael Angelo and Raphael, Francesco and +Tiziano. “Adam and Eve driven from Paradise,” +by Guido Reni; “Christ and the Doctors of the +Church,” by Dürer; “The Holy Family,” by +Andrea; “The Annunciation,” by Bronzine; and many +others that we considered marvels of the artists’ +brush. There is also within this gallery a very large room +as a library in which, we learned, there are over 30,000 books in +print, and over 8,000 in manuscript, by Dante, Galileo, Lasso and +others. The wonders of these places filled us with such +admiration, we could stay and look until quite weary, so we take +tram to hotel again for rest.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p66.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Church of the Trinity, Rome" +title= +"Church of the Trinity, Rome" +src="images/p66.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +67</span>CHAPTER VII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">The Church of the Trinity: St. Maria: Church +of Onesemus: The Grand Corso: The British and Foreign Bible +Society: Outside view of the Quirinal: Nero’s House: +Leaving Rome: Scene at a wayside station: Arrival at Florence: +Visit to the Cathedral.</p> +<p>The wonderful Church called the Church of the Trinity, up a +very broad staircase of some 330 steps; then a very fine piazza +or square, and an obelisk, at the top of which they say is a +piece of the cross on which St. Peter suffered martyrdom. +In this square we found artists’ models waiting to be +engaged. Some of them very pretty Italian peasant girls +fresh from mountain homes, in costumes quaint and queer; old men +with white beards and capacious cloaks; shepherd boys from the +Campagna; bag-pipers from Abruzzi; also mendicants of more than +one nationality; also vendors of wares of various kinds, +principally small brooches, photo frames and pins, with nic-nacs +that were considered to be attractive. A scene of very +great interest to the Britisher. We left here to have a +stroll in the streets, to watch with <a name="page68"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 68</span>interest the customs and habits of +the people. Hotels almost without number; beer-houses, only +a few; cafes, many; confectioners, many; chemists and doctors, +fairly numerous; dentists, several at any rate; restaurants, +many, and some on a very large scale; telephone call offices; +lavatories; specialities, as jewellers who sell Roman pearls, +mosaics, religious ornaments, bronzes, marble, etc.; porters +standing in various places to give you a hand with a parcel; +omnibuses running to the station from all parts of the city; +carriages for hire at about eightpence per mile, English +money. So we passed an hour in watching the ever changing +street scenes, until tired, then to our hotel and to rest once +more. Returning to our further inspection of churches, +museums, and places of interest, we went to see the old St. +Maria. This is a very interesting place, and is said to be +built upon the site of what was Paul’s “own hired +house in which he dwelt for two whole years,” see Acts, ch. +28, v. 30. It is said that on this spot, Onesimus, the +runaway slave, was converted, and that he received the gifts sent +by the Philippians and the Colossians, by Epaphroditus, which he +so thankfully acknowledges. Philippians., chapter 4, verse +18. “I am full, having received of Epaphroditus the +things which were sent from you, an <a name="page69"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 69</span>odour of a sweet smell, a sacrifice +acceptable, well-pleasing to God.” Three rooms in the +basement of the church are shown as the very rooms in which St. +Paul and St. Luke taught and wrote. Col., chapter 4, verse +14.</p> +<p>Leaving this place we enter the Corso, the principal street of +the city. To our surprise and delight we saw a depot of the +British and Foreign Bible Society; the window full of Italian +copies of the scriptures spread open, some showing clearly one +passage, and some another; so that he who runs can read. We +found we could buy the New Testament for threepence in English +money. A separate gospel for less than one penny. It +is not many years since when this would not have been allowed in +Rome or in Italy. Before the Pope’s power was broken, +I mean his temporal power, he did not allow a circulation of the +Bible, nor did he allow a public assembly of heretics +(Christians) within the city. Now, thank God, there are +numerous Protestant Churches in the city. The Wesleyans +have one or more churches. The Americans, the Lutheran, the +Greek, the English church and others are now allowed the +privileges not long since denied to them. We had the +pleasure of an outside view of the Quirinal, the present +residence of the King of Italy in Rome. It was at one time +the residence of <a name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +70</span>the Pope. It is an old building, 1574 is the +date. It is said the Popes prepared this residence because +the air was so fresh, and the neighbourhood so healthy. +While the King is in Rome the Quirinal palace is not open to +visitors. The gardens are on an extensive scale. +Within the palace are sculpture, museums, library, paintings by +Raphael, Michael Angelo and Luigi Serra. Some of the +subjects are simply masterpieces. We went from the Quirinal +to the Baths of Titus, erected by the Emperor of that name, it is +said upon the same place where once stood the house of +Nero. The excavators in 1811 laid bare many interesting +facts concerning the times of Titus, about the year 80 <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> Only a semicircle can be seen +showing the foundations, yet it seems to be clear that these are +the only remains of the baths referred to. We left here +feeling we were satiated with sight seeing, and our time for +leaving Rome was near at hand, so we determined upon a few +purchases. Then to our hotel to reflect, to think, to +recall, if possible, to memory what we had seen and heard. +To fill up our diary, to settle our hotel accounts, and to get +ready to leave the “Eternal City.” We reviewed +in our mind at leisure, where we had been, and what we had seen +in Rome. And we read up history which tells us in the <a +name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>palmy days of +Rome, there would be within the city over 400 temples, and over +17,000 palaces, over 13,000 fountains, more than 30 theatres, 8 +amphitheatres, 11 baths, some of which would accommodate some +1,500 bathers at once, 80 gilt statues, and over 3,700 bronze +statues, 82 statues of figures on horseback, so we think of Rome +in her imperial pride, when luxury lay on the lap of so many of +her nobles. Since then she has been humbled to the +dust. Many of these costly buildings and statuary are in +ruins, but there is enough left to show her once illustrious +position.</p> +<p>We had certainly made the best of the time at our disposal, so +we leave thee, Oh! Rome! the great, the illustrious. +“It may be for years, or it may be for ever.” +We said good-bye, and soon we were en route for Florence. +The scenery for some distance is not particularly +attractive. The usual Italian villages, in some cases just +a cottage or two, the tenants of which are out with their ox and +plough, or a pair of donkeys and a rickety old cart, or the man +is draining his farm. We saw about eight or ten women at a +large stone trough by the side of a highway washing. It +seems this is their custom, for the women of several families to +have a joint washday, and go to the nearest clean flowing +water.</p> +<p><a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>As we +proceeded northward, we noticed the country became more +undulating and richer in fruits and flowers. The season for +the grapes being ripe was just on, and we noticed as we +journeyed, on all sides, grape vines; there seemed to be miles of +them, and still, as we hurried along, more vineyards. Oxen +in wagons in the rows of vines, were being loaded with the +luscious fruit. Six white oxen in each wagon mostly. +The husband, wife and children, all seemed to be engaged in +plucking and loading the fruit. We passed scores of miles +of vineyards of this sort. We stopped at a station called +Cartona. I saw a typical Italian girl with a grape stall on +the platform. I alighted and selected two large bunches of +beautiful ripe grapes, and as I could not ask the price, not +speaking Italian, I held out my hand with a number of coins of +various value for her to take the cost of the grapes. She +selected twenty centimes, that is about twopence in English +money; so very cheap are grapes. The country is a lovely +country and rich beyond compare. Our train, we could +perceive at times, was climbing, so slow was the speed, but as we +got higher the scene became more lovely; the Italian lakes in the +distance; the towns with the usual Duomo or Church always +noticeable.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p72.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Team of oxen in Tuscany" +title= +"Team of oxen in Tuscany" +src="images/p72.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 73</span>At +every road crossing we noticed an Italian woman, usually aged, +sat at the gate crossing, with horn in hand ready to give warning +of an approaching train. About four o’clock in the +afternoon we came in sight of Florence. The first view was +entrancing. The city lies in a hollow, the surrounding +hillsides are, here and there, dotted over with castles and +mansions, each in their own lovely and extensive grounds. +They were mostly of white marble. The river Arno runs +through the city. Florence is essentially a city of +flowers, as its name indicates. All around for miles +castles, mansions, villas, gardens and shady nooks fill the soul +with a consciousness that Nature here has bestowed her gifts of +beauty in no stinted degree. Florence has been called, and +I think very aptly, the Athens of Italy. This city +possesses the memories of some of the world’s greatest men, +“the priceless heirlooms of a glorious past.” +Here the peerless bard, “Dante” sang his deathless +song and made his lovely Beatrice immortal. Was it not from +these very hills and fields on which we were gazing, that Galileo +every night scanned the heavens to compel the distant orbs to +reveal their secrets?</p> +<p>Here we see her peerless domes and towers rise in all their +stately grandeur beneath a lovely Italian sky. We are now +at the station. Alighting, we soon found the ’bus <a +name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>for +“Hotel Minerva” (this we had selected before hand) so +were soon once more settled for a little while. Our hotel +was very comfortable, and we found mine host most gracious, and +evidently most desirous to satisfy us, and so keep our patronage +as long as possible. The rooms were lofty and furnished +with taste, dinner served in good style, which included +everything we could wish for. A look round the city for a +little while, was our first thought, so out we went into the +great open square, facing which is the Duomo or Cathedral Maria +del Fiore, so called from the lily which figures in the arms of +Florence. This vast pile of buildings was begun in the year +1298, and finished in the year 1462. It is stated it was +built on the foundations of an earlier church. It is a +grand example of the Gothic art. The length of the building +is 185 yards, and its width, 114 yards. The dome is 300 +feet high, and with the lantern 352 feet. On the 8th of +September, 1298, a representative of Pope Boniface VIII. blessed +the foundations of this new grand temple in the presence of the +“Gonfaloniere Borgo,” many bishops, “the +chapter,” all the Florentine clergy, the captains of the +arts, and the magnificent and sublime “Signori of the +Republic,” as they were called. The words with which +the community gave charge of this sumptuous <a +name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>building +were, literally translated, “to make it so magnificent and +so sublime that it would be impossible that it should be +surpassed.” And it seemed to us that for size and +strength and adornments, few can compare with it. Many +vicissitudes occurred during the building—wars, deaths of +architects, etc.—till in the year 1492 it was something +like a completed building. In April, 1860, King Victor +Emmanuel laid the foundation of a new facade, which was to +replace one taken away, as the design was considered +unsuitable. Above the south door is a Madonna between two +angels. Inside we were struck with its massiveness, more +than with its decorations. On the right there is a fine +equestrian statue of John Hawkswood, of date 1384, an English +soldier of fortune, who had served the Republic with unswerving +fidelity. Over the portico is a fine picture of the Virgin +Mary in mosaic. On the right side are some fine marble +figures of great men of ancient dates. In the east nave are +fine statues of St. John and St. Peter; a fine stained-glass +window with most attractive and telling designs. Inside the +great dome is a very peculiar, very grotesque frieze, by a great +painter named Vasari, depicting the flames of hell and awful +monsters around them. Also the heaven of delight and +bliss.</p> +<p><a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 76</span>Near +the Cathedral is the wonderful Campagna or tower, which visitors +through centuries have visited and admired. A distinguished +visitor once said, “The Florentines should enclose this +tower in a glass case, and only let it be on exhibition during +the great festivals.” It is solid and strong, though +it rises to the height of 292 feet. It has four stories, +the lower ones are richly fixed with variegated marble, and +covered almost with statues of illustrious men. A view of +this tower from a distance is very fine. We had seen +nothing like it before in all our travels on the continent.</p> +<h2><a name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +77</span>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Florence: Michael Angelo’s House: +Baptistry of St. John: The Uffizi Gallery: The Tribune: A drive +to the suburbs: Dante’s House: Dante’s Poems: The +Gardens: Mrs. Browning’s description of Vallambrosa: +Michael Angelo’s work: Galileo, his trial, etc.</p> +<p>As we had little time for visiting other places of interest, +the day being now far advanced, we determined to give our minds +and bodies a rest. So we entered a cafe for refreshment, we +found them exceedingly clean and most obliging; we took what +refreshment we needed, then went for a stroll on the streets to +see the shops, and we found the city has some fine streets and +shops of almost every kind. The city has a population of +about 200,000. We were reminded frequently of some of the +worthies of the city in sculpture or in painting. Michael +Angelo, though not born in Florence, spent a great deal of his +life here, and here some of his finest works were completed, and +in Florence he died and was buried. At the corner of the +Via Buonarotti stands the house in which he lived. It is +now (like the house <a name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +78</span>of the immortal Shakespeare) a museum given to the +city.</p> +<p>“Farewell,” said Michael Angelo, on setting out +for where he was to undertake the finishing of the great St. +Peter’s, in Rome. “Farewell, I go to try to +make thy sister, but I cannot hope to make thy equal.”</p> +<p>About the old Baptistry of St. John, to which, we are told, +all the children of the city are taken to be christened, there +are two bronze gates at which a famous workman was employed forty +years. Michael Angelo declared “these gates were +worthy to be the gates of Paradise.”</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>1st design.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The creation of man.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>2nd ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Expulsion of our first parents from the Garden of +Eden.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>3rd ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Noah after the deluge.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>4th ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Abraham on Mount Moriah.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>5th ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Esau selling his birthright.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>6th ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Joseph and his brethren, and the law given on Sinai.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>7th ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>The walls of Jericho.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>8th ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>The battle with the Ammonites.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>9th ,,</p> +</td> +<td><p>Queen of Sheba in Solomon’s palace.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>I believe there is a cast of these gates exhibited at the +South Kensington Museum.</p> +<p>The Uffizi Gallery or museum or both, where I should think may +be found the most <a name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +79</span>wonderful collection of art to be found in the +world. Even in Rome we had seen nothing to equal it. +It contains over 13,000 paintings. Cameos and original +designs without number. There are long corridors where +statues of celebrated Tuscans fill the niches. There is +sculptured marble, or painted canvas, of all imaginable beings in +heaven or on earth. Emperors and kings, saintly Madonnas, +angels, gods and goddesses, muses and nymphs; all may be found in +this marvellous collection. And on the ceiling are frescoes +setting forth the annals of Florence. In one of the halls +stands a painting of Niobe with her sons and daughters clinging +around her, victims of the cruel vengeance of Diana and +Apollo. In another room are some angels surrounding a +Madonna, making a lovely picture. There is a gallery in +which are paintings of the painters of all nations, painted by +themselves. Vandyck, with his clear blue eye, long hair and +fair countenance; Raphael, looking sad and gentle and very +sallow; Michael Angelo, simple yet sublime, he is in his dressing +gown. We were simply surrounded and bewildered by the +fascinating sights on every hand. There are cabinets also, +containing rare gems, cameos and bronzes of all sizes and +shapes. The Tribune also demands notice, as it contains +vast masses of valuable treasures. <a +name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>One room is +paved with the most costly marble. There are five +masterpieces of antiquity. In the centre stands the Venus +de Medicis, serene, pure, delicate, and perfectly lovely; +another, the Dancing Fawn; another, “Apollino,” +“The Wrestlers,” and the “Grinder.” +There is also here, one of the finest and best of Raphael’s +paintings, “The Glorious Madonna.” Two others +by Titian. We soon became exhausted and weary, so we left +the entrancing scenes for another day. To our hotel was but +the work of ten minutes; safely housed. Table-de-hote +dinner, to write up our diaries, to commend our lives and our +loved ones to the care of our Heavenly Father, we slept. +During the night there was a severe thunder storm, the lightning +played round our hotel, lighting up the great square in front, +but so far as we know, no damage was done. We rose in +health, refreshed and ready for a good breakfast; this, the +Italians know how to provide. Their coffee is the best I +have ever tasted. Fish, eggs, cold meats and fruits in +abundance. We made a fine breakfast, and after writing some +letters and post cards we ventured out, this time for a drive to +the suburbs. I soon found carriage and driver and made +terms.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p80.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Mrs. Wardle near The Duomo, Florence" +title= +"Mrs. Wardle near The Duomo, Florence" +src="images/p80.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Before starting, however, I took a snapshot of my wife in the +carriage, with the archway or part of the <a +name="page81"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 81</span>facade of the +Duomo for background. We passed through the principal parts +of the city, and our driver pointed out the house, still +standing, where Dante, the greatest of all the great poets of +Italy, was born. It is very near to the church of Santa +Croce, a very old building, but in its vicinity lies the dust of +some of Italy’s noblest sons. Near here in the year +1865, on the 5th day of May, a vast concourse of people assembled +to see the unveiling of a statue of Dante. It is 19 feet in +height, and it is mounted on a pedestal 23 feet in height. +This was the six hundredth anniversary of the poet’s +birthday. Dante was not buried here, but at Ravenna, where +he died in exile away from the city he loved so much. In +the “Sheep-fold of St. John” as he called it. +His life was full of strange vicissitudes, apparently more of +cloud and storm than of sunshine. His father was in the +legal profession, and this, Dante adopted, and studied very +successfully at several schools in Italy and Germany. At an +early age he fell madly in love with one, Beatrice, but she +married another man, and left him with a great sore in his +heart. He was called to bear arms against Ariezo and Pisa, +where he served with great assiduity. He afterwards +married, but not happily, at the age of 28. He had a +family, however, and his first-born <a name="page82"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 82</span>being a girl, he called her Beatrice, +after his first love. A civil war had been brewing for some +time. Again Dante took the field, this time, unfortunately, +on the weaker side, and a revolutionary government being formed, +he, with other ringleaders who wished to resist the extreme +pretensions of the Pope, were sentenced to be burned alive. +He, however, managed to escape into Germany, where he wandered +about from place to place, finding no settled residence, and +desiring to return to his native city, but this was denied +him. He died, as we have seen, in Ravenna. His +daughter Beatrice was a nun in one of the convents, but to do +some tardy justice to the noble bard, a sum of money was raised +for her own special use. I can hardly leave this +interesting subject without a passing reference to his poems, as +are now principally read. The volume I refer to includes +the “Inferno,” “The Purgatorio,” and +“The Paradiso.” It is here surmised that Virgil +and St. Bernard conduct Dante through these divisions of the +universal world, to help him to write something that would show +up the source of Italy’s ruin. The poem is a fine +allegory, showing, as it does in the first part, a Panther, +representing Florence or envy; a Lion, France or ambition; a +She-Wolf, the Court of Rome or avarice; a Greyhound, Our Saviour +or His <a name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +83</span>vicegerent the Pope; Virgil, human wisdom; and Beatrice, +heavenly wisdom. His representation of Hell as a dark +valley, at the mouth of which is Limbo, and which are nine +circles indicating nine different degrees of sin to be +punished. The wise and good even are represented as lying +in tears and sorrow, because they were not baptized. +Purgatory is a step hill in the hemisphere opposite hell. +Seven rounds have to be climbed before the seven stains of sin +are washed away. At the top is the Garden of Eden. It +is most interesting to follow Dante, as he ascends with his +beloved Beatrice to Paradise, through the various heavens of the +moon, Mercury, Venus, Mars, the Sun, Jupiter, etc. The +eighth heaven contains the triumph of Christ; and the Virgin Mary +and Adam he makes to dwell there also. In the ninth heaven +is a manifestation of the Divine Essence, viewed by three +hierarchies of Angels. While these poems are allegorical, +they are full of interest and show that Dante was greatly moved +and influenced by “the things that are unseen which are +eternal.” In his youthful days he paced the fields +and groves of lovely Italy, writing sonnets to his beloved +Beatrice. In his later years he had to eat the bread of +bitterness, being an outcast from his friends and from the city +he loved. The world, <a name="page84"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 84</span>however, has been enriched by his +poverty. A sight of the place where he was born has +suggested to us this commentary. We left the place not +without reflection upon the immutability of things that are +earthly. From here our driver took us towards the lovely +gardens across the river Arno, the gardens of Boboli; these are +open to the public Thursday and Sunday. Approaching the +bridge which spans this lovely river, we were struck with its +massiveness as well as its beauty. It is called the +Jewellers’ Bridge, as jewellers’ shops line the +bridge on each side fully, except a very small break in the +middle through which you get a very nice view of the river as it +rolls along. A bridge further on is adorned with statues, +and is considered the most beautiful of the seven that cross the +Arno. When over the bridge the road is very steep; our +driver left his box to give the horse the benefit. Now we +seem getting into the suburbs, the road is lined with trees of +all sorts; the acacia, the box, the walnut, the maple, the olive +and many others, I do not think I could tell the names of them +all. Up and up we went, in a semicircular fashion, until we +gained the summit. When we had gone through the gate into +the garden, the view was simply entrancing. Florence, with +its towers and spires and <a name="page85"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 85</span>domes, lay like a fine panorama at +our feet, and the river gliding gently through the city. +The villages in the distances nestling amidst luxuriant foliage +of trees and plants. The gardens around us full of beauty, +adorned with statuary, and a profusion of moss and creeper and +colour of flowers, we may never see again. Just across the +river, we could see the tower of Galileo, where the great +astronomer nightly watched the stars, or</p> +<blockquote><p>“Moon, whose orb<br /> +Through optic glass the Tuscan artist views,<br /> +At evening from the top of Fiesole,<br /> +Or in Voldarno, to descry new lands,<br /> +Rivers or mountains, in his spotty globe.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p82.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Dante And Beatrice, Florence" +title= +"Dante And Beatrice, Florence" +src="images/p82.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Farther out the Casine, or the Hyde Park of Florence, could be +seen. Perhaps no better description can be given than by +Mrs. Browning:</p> +<blockquote><p>“You remember, down at Florence, our +Casine,<br /> +Where the people on the fast days walk and drive,<br /> +And through the trees, long drawn in many a green way,<br /> +O’er roofing hum and murmur like a hive,<br /> +The river and the mountain look alive.</p> +<p>You remember the Piazzo there, the stand place<br /> +<a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>Of +carriages abrim with Florence beauties,<br /> +Who lean and meet to music as the band plays,<br /> +Or smile and chat with some one who afoot is<br /> +Or on horseback, in observance of male duties.</p> +<p>’Tis so pretty in the afternoon of summer,<br /> +So many gracious faces brought together;<br /> +Call it rout, or call it concert, they have come here<br /> +In the floating of the fan and of the feather,<br /> +To reciprocate with beauty the fine weather.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Along the valley of Vallambrosa, as you look across, pine +forests, lawns and mountains combined, make a scene the fairest +fair Italy can show. Milton, in his “Paradise +Lost,” alludes to this valley, speaking of the fallen +angels who</p> +<blockquote><p>“Lay entranced,<br /> +Thick as autumnal leaves that strew the brooks<br /> +In Vallambrosa’s, where oh! Etrurian shades<br /> +High over arched embower.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>This was one of the favourite walks of Dante, where he loved +to wander and muse on his lovely Beatrice. The views from +this elevation on all sides were very beautiful, and we left it +with a feeling we could never again gaze on scenes so +delightful.</p> +<p>Returning from these lovely scenes, in and from the Boboli +Gardens, over the same <a name="page87"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 87</span>bridge we turned to the left and +passed the Mozzi Square, where is the Mozzi Palace. A very +large building that has connected with it, we were told, a very +fine picture gallery, but we had not time to visit it. We +then came to the Necropolis of St. Miniato, a church considered +to be one of the oldest on the continent. The Florentine +Republic considered its splendid military position, and ordered +Michael Angelo to fortify it. He therefore threw a strong +rampart around it, with strong bastions which were provided with +cannon. It is said that many Christian martyrs died for the +faith and were buried in this church. The tower was greatly +damaged by Charles V., but Michael Angelo saved it from utter +ruin. Rev. D. M. Pratt says of Michael Angelo:</p> +<blockquote><p>“A master mind before the marble stood,<br +/> +Fresh quarried was it, rough and all unhewn,<br /> +To other eyes it seemed a shapeless stone;<br /> +To his, a stately form and beautiful.<br /> +Chisel in hand he wrought and what he saw<br /> +Came forth a statue, living and divine.<br /> +An artist stood and gazed on fallen man:<br /> +He to the soul, what to the marble rough<br /> +Was Angels, he saw and sinful man<br /> +A seraphs form. He wrought, and forth there came<br /> +<a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>Manhood +divine—the lifeless took on life,<br /> +Oh! for the artist’s eye! In every man<br /> +God’s image dwells, and he who sees the Christ<br /> +Sees God in man restored, and with him seeks to bring<br /> +His thoughts to life in saving men.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>A poet has written:</p> +<blockquote><p>“In Santa Croce’s holy precincts +lie<br /> +Ashes which make it holier, dust which is<br /> +Even in itself an immortality.<br /> +Though there were nothing save the past, and this<br /> +The particles of those sublimities<br /> +Which have relapsed to chaos, here repose<br /> +Angelo’s Alfieris bones, and his<br /> +The starry Galileo with his woes;<br /> +Here Machiavelli’s earth returned to whence it +rose.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The tomb of Galileo calls for a passing remark, as he dared to +contravert the old world notions of a central earth fixed in +space, immovable with planets curling round it. The church +had stood by the old theory for ages. If now they adopt +Galileo’s theory, where is their infallibility. And +so ignorant monks shut him up in prison and burnt his books in +the public market place, and led out this great philosopher in +mockery before a gaping crowd, with a wax taper in his hand <a +name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>and a halter +round his neck, and demanded he should recant his opinions. +Amidst the jeers of his friends and the awful threats of his +enemies, he was induced to go through a certain form of +recantation, in which he was required to declare “With a +sincere heart and faith unfeigned, I abjure, curse and detest the +said errors—I swear for the future never to say anything +verbally, or in writing, which may cause to any further suspicion +against me.” Rising from his knees he whispered: +“But it does move for all that.”</p> +<h2><a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +90</span>CHAPTER IX.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Appalling catastrophe in Italy: Messina: +Savonarola, the enthusiastic preacher: His defiance of the Pope: +His excommunication: His cell, etc.: His martyrdom: Raphael, his +genius as a painter: Some of his works: The old Protestant +Cemetery: Our leaving Florence: Journey to Bologna and on to +Venice.</p> +<p>While I am here writing of the beauties of Italy, its fertile +plains, its sunny skies, its lovely lakes, its great works of art +and its still greater artists, a newsboy is calling out in the +streets: “Appalling catastrophe in Italy.” An +earthquake killing not thousands merely, but tens of +thousands. What! is that fair land devastated, and death +swept by such a calamity? Is it true that loveliness and +danger lie so near together? What! is there no spot on +earth where we may be absolutely free from danger? Here in +lovely Messina and Reggio, I passed them on board the S.S. +“Benares” about two years ago. The sun shone +brilliantly on the scene, a lovelier it would be difficult to +describe. On my left Messina, with its marble buildings +glistening in the sun. Temples and towers, churches and +barracks, all giving signs of <a name="page91"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 91</span>strength and beauty to the fair city; +on our right Reggio, which appeared to be a city of great beauty +and prosperity. Mount Etna in the distance, slumbering for +a time. Stromboli as we passed was alive hurling up stones, +fire and smoke. Now the cities named are practically wiped +out. <i>The Daily News</i>, of December 31st, 1908, says: +“Yesterday, the total of the dead was calculated as from +fifty thousand to seventy-five thousand. To-day it is two +hundred thousand. This morning’s news helps us to +form a clearer idea of the awful scene as it occurred. It +was early morn just before daylight, and all the beautiful towns +along the coast of these historic straits were still +asleep. Death came suddenly and unawares. By five +successive shocks, the cities were toppled down, and where they +had stood great columns of dust were rising. Men, women and +children, soldiers in barracks, the sick in hospital and +prisoners in gaol were killed together as they slept. They +died like ants in a blown up nest.” A survivor from +Messina says: “The town is nothing but a dust heap, even +the railway station is swallowed up, the railwaymen are nearly +all killed.” Another says: “It is too horrible +to describe.” The Pope has shown the greatest +anxiety; has even asked permission at the Quirinal to transmit +massages to the suffering <a name="page92"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 92</span>and the bereaved. He also +summoned to the Vatican the Director of the Bank of Rome and had +with him some private conversation, and arranged for the sum of +£40,000 to be sent at once. Our own King Edward sent +to the King of Italy messages of condolence and sympathy. +The navies and soldiers of England, France, Germany and others +are giving assistance in extricating sufferers from the debris, +and feeding the hungry, and erecting temporary shelters and +generally doing all that can be done to mitigate the distress and +grief and pain. Money is being sent liberally by all the +Christian nations at least. So all feel as nations and as +individuals that “One touch of sorrow makes the world +akin.” It is at such a time that the brotherhood of +nations asserts itself. All racial barriers are swept away +in the face of such a terrible catastrophe. The latest news +is that no less than 220,000 have perished, as many inland towns +have suffered most severely. The cathedral and churches, +with all their valuable works of art, have been totally +destroyed. Scenes simply indescribable are enacted and too +sad to relate. So we see the uncertainty of things that are +on earth.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding the natural beauty of the surroundings, before +we left the fair city of Florence, we must needs do a little +shopping, <a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +93</span>and make some further investigations into the interests +and associations of the place. The convent of San Marco is +a place worth a visit, and is open on receipt of a small fee or +gratuity. Here is the cell of Savonarola, in which he was +confined before the martyrdom of flame. Here is a fine +portrait of the man who dared to face even death in his defence +of the truth. Here are some of his manuscripts, traced with +his own pen. Here are his tunic, girdle and crucifix, and +even a charred piece of wood from the scene of his +martyrdom. Such sights fill the soul with thoughts of what +men have endured to rescue the truth from Papal tyranny. Of +Savonarola it may be said, he was a great reformer, a religious +enthusiast, and a martyr. Born at Ferrara, in 1452, he +early joined the religious order of Dominicans at Bologna. +At first his career as a preacher was not marked by any unusual +event, nor did he meet with great success, but on his appointment +to the Duomo, crowds came to listen to his preaching, and indeed +so eloquent did he become and so effective that, at times, his +discourses were interrupted by the masses of the people sobbing +and crying in their pews. He became so popular that the +people pressed round him in the streets to kiss his +garments. He went forth like a flaming herald of the cross +in <a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +94</span>defiance of pope, cardinal or priest. It is stated +that under his influence the morals of the city became +purified. The children were specially cared for, as many as +8,000 at one time were banded together in a sort of republic, and +were called “the children of Christ.” The Pope +did his very best to suppress this holy work, but it was useless +to try to stop so God inspired a man as Savonarola. When +this was ineffectual, they said make him a Cardinal; give him a +red hat, so make of him a friend. He answered from the +pulpit of St. Mark’s: “I will have no other red hat +than that of martyrdom, coloured with my own blood.” +Then he was summoned to appear in Rome. This, however, he +refused to do. Then came the ban of excommunication, but +this brought with it no terrors. His answer to it is: +“he who commands a thing contrary to the law of Christ, is +himself excommunicated.” “I may have failed in +many things, for I am a sinner, but I have not shunned to declare +the Gospel of Jesus Christ. They threaten to burn me or +fling me into the Arno, that gives me no concern.” +Ultimately he was arrested and charged with impiety and sedition, +of these, however, there was no proof shown, until a certain man +named Ser Cocone presented a forged document, and our hero was +condemned to be burned. And on <a name="page95"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 95</span>May 23rd, 1498, this noble saint of +God passed away. Three platforms were erected in front of +the palace; Savonarola was taken up to the central one, clad in +his priestly robes. Then piece by piece the Bishop removed +his vestments in the presence of the multitude, and pronounced +the degradation. “I separate thee from the church +militant and from the church triumphant.” +“Nay,” said the bold and daring saint, “from +the church militant, if you please, but not from the church +triumphant, that is more than you can do.” He then +mounted the pile and gave utterance to the following sentence; +“Oh! Florence, what hast thou done this day.” +Soon there was nothing left but the ashes of Savonarola. +His spirit leapt into the chariot of fire, and he was with the +martyr throng before the Throne. By order of the Commune, +his ashes were thrown into the river Arno, so that no relic could +be found of the patriot and martyr.</p> +<p>We could hardly leave Florence without giving some reference +to Raphael, one of our world’s greatest painters. +Though not born in Florence, he spent a good deal of his life in +the city. His education in the art was completed in +Florence. He was born in the year 1483. Michael +Angelo was to him an attraction and an inspiration. It is +said that <a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +96</span>so fine was his genius, that in his time of tuition he +could surpass his tutors. His most famous pictures are +“Christ in the attitude of prayer on the Mount of +Olives,” and “St. Michael and St. George,” +which are now in the Louvre, at Paris. The Pope gave him a +grand reception on his entering Rome; and, while there, he +executed some very fine pieces for his Holiness, which so pleased +him that he ordered Raphael to give him other proofs of his +artistic skill. He then painted on the Vatican walls +figures of “Poetry,” “Theology,” +“Justice,” and “Philosophy”; also +“The fall of Adam,” “Astronomy,” +“Apollo,” and “Philosophy.” On +another wall he painted “Fortitude,” +“Prudence,” “Temperance”; and on another +place “The Emperor Justinian delivering the Roman +law,” “Peter’s deliverance from prison,” +“Moses viewing the burning bush,” +“Jacob’s dream,” etc. It is said he +turned the Vatican into a picture gallery. His pictures are +in many countries and in many cities. He died at the early +age of thirty-seven, on the same date he was born, and his body +was conveyed to the Pantheon, in Rome, where it now rests. +It is said of him, he was most affable, kind, and generous to a +fault. He had an open manly countenance which inspired all +who met him. Florence, fair city, must be credited <a +name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>with the +training and making of this bright gem of the painter’s +art. Indeed, this city has given to the world some of the +finest men of mind and soul the world has ever known. We +felt proud to walk its streets and to know we were on ground that +should be reverenced for the purity and greatness of the lives of +the men we have referred to. We could not readily say +good-bye, but time presses, and after a visit to the old +Protestant Cemetery outside the Porta Pinta, which to Britishers +is hallowed ground, as there are here the graves of Elizabeth +Barrett Browning, the poetess to whom we have already referred +our readers; also “Theodore Parker,” and +“Arthur Hugh Clough.” This “city of the +dead” was closed in 1870, and a new cemetery has been +opened for Protestants about a mile outside the city. To +try to describe the beauties of all the suburbs of Florence would +require an abler pen than mine. So we must close our +account at the “Minerva,” take our last night’s +repose and leave for Venice.</p> +<p>We rose early in order to have a full day of interest and +experiences. We left this lovely place in the forenoon, and +as our train was about to leave, a lady traveller who spoke good +English boarded the train and entered our compartment. We +soon became friendly and familiar. She spoke our language, +she <a name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>was of +a kindred spirit, though not from England, she was of English +stock and we soon discovered she came from Dunedin, New Zealand +(Miss M. Himmel). She had visited Balmoral Castle in +Scotland, and the Trossachs, Inverness, Glasgow and +Edinburgh. Also Dublin in Ireland, The Giants’ +Causeway, Bantry Bay and the lovely Lakes of Killarney. She +spent three months in our great city of London, and visited every +important church, museum, picture gallery, etc. Also Norway +with its weird and awe-inspiring scenery. Rome with its +telling old world stories in stone, marble and bronze. +Naples, Milan, Venice, Florence, Frankfort-on-the-Rhine, Bingen, +Berlin, and to Cologne. Then to Paris, the gay city of +France, to see its Notre Dame, its fine Boulevards, etc. +Two weeks’ sight seeing in Paris. Then to London and +next Liverpool. Then for Dunedin, New Zealand and +home. We found her well read and of wide experience, a lady +both in manners, education, and by birth. We could exchange +ideas and enjoy each others company as the train sped on towards +Venice. The railway intersects a rich tract of land at the +base of the Apennines. On our right the picturesque castle +of Monte Mario, near which, we learned, at one time, the +Florentine Republicans with their troops <a +name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>were defeated +and taken prisoners by the troops of Cosino, in the year +1537. We soon found out our train was climbing, by the +speed she made, up the great Etruscan Apennines we mount, now +through a tunnel, then across a fine aqueduct. Again and +again this occurred, while the sides of the vast mountain ranges, +we noticed, were covered with trees—pines, poplars, +chestnuts, olive, fig, mulberry, and others. The plains of +Tuscany, which were now below us, are reputed to be the richest +in Europe. Wheat is largely cultivated. Rice is also +sown in considerable quantities, and is used by the peasant for +food. The use of buffaloes as beasts for farm use are +common. No less than 3,000 are in constant use on the farms +and vineyards of Tuscany. We saw waggons drawn by six +buffaloes frequently. The grapes of the neighbourhood, +through which we were passing are said to be of an exceptional +quality. As we passed villages on the slopes of the hills, +we saw the natives in their simplicity of dress and manner, at +work and at home. At every gate where there was a crossing +of the railway there was a woman, mostly aged, with a horn to +warn travellers of the approaching train. Reaching a +wayside station our train stopped, and I noticed on the platform +an Italian girl with a rude simple table or stall on which <a +name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>were large +bunches of grapes, I presumed for sale, so I alighted from the +train and seized two bunches about one pound each. As I +could not speak to her in her language, I took some change from +my pocket and offered her the cost, so she took what she +wished. She took twenty centimes, that is the value of +twopence, so cheap are grapes in Italy. At this station an +Italian lady, and evidently two daughters, came into our +compartment with a little fancy dog, which one of the daughters +carefully nursed. They brought with them one or two large +baskets. In a little while one of them took from a basket a +very fine roast chicken, from which she began to feed the dog +with the nicest pieces off the breast. When the animal was +satisfied they spread napkins on their knees, and evidently +enjoyed the rest of the fowl. Some rolls and butter and +grapes for dessert, and also some bottles of wine were produced +from the baskets. Later, as we needed refreshments, we had +to be satisfied with a few sandwiches, but the ladies seeing we +had no napkins, at once offered theirs, and, indeed, spread them +over our knees, with the greatest delicacy and politeness. +Then they offered us, and pressed us, though in a language we did +not understand, to have grapes and wine with them. Their +kindness and manner of giving <a name="page101"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 101</span>expression to it touched us very +much. They left us as we arrived at Bologna station, but +our friend Miss Himmel, however, remained with us. We did +not stay long enough to look over the town, but from its +appearance it is a large and prosperous city, having a population +of about 100,000. The cathedral is one of very great +antiquity and importance. There are 130 Roman Catholic +Churches and twenty monasteries in this city. There is a +very fine Piazza or Square, called Victor Immanuel Square, in +which is a fine bronze statue of Pope Gregory XIX. St. +Petronio is the largest church in the town, in the Gothic +style. Over the principal entrance is a bronze statue of +Pope Julius II., with the keys and a sword in his hand, by +Michael Angelo. We left Bologna after a short time of +waiting, and were soon speeding through lovely and fertile tracts +of country. The Adriatic on our right, not near enough to +see, but the air seemed impregnated with its ozone. Our +approach to Venice became apparent as we crossed the lagoons with +a roar and a rattle, the numerous arches (miles of them) told us +we were near the city.</p> +<h2><a name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +102</span>CHAPTER X.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Arrival at Venice: The ubiquitous Gondola: The +Grand Canal: The curious water ways: Our Hotel: A snap shot of a +Gondola and its freight: St. Mark’s Cathedral: Its curious +history: Its wonderful Tower, and its interior adornments.</p> +<p>I think it was the most thrilling moment of our tour, as our +train left Mestra, and almost immediately we began crossing the +long bridge (two-and-a-half miles long) which crosses the lagoon, +we seem to be travelling right into the sea, the gentle ripple of +the watery waves by moonlight as they extend on either side of +the line, has a pleasing effect. The peculiar smell of the +seaweed is strong in the air, and right ahead is Venice, of which +some poet has sung:</p> +<blockquote><p>“There is a glorious city in the sea,<br /> +The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets<br /> +Ebbing and flowing, and the salt seaweed<br /> +Clings to the marble of her palaces.<br /> +No track of men, no footsteps to and fro<br /> +Lead to her gates! the path lies o’er the sea,<br /> +Invisible: And from the land we went<br /> +As to a floating city—steering in,<br /> +<a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>And +gliding up her streets as in a dream,<br /> +So smoothly, silently—by many a dome<br /> +Mosque-like, and many a stately portico<br /> +The statues ranged along an azure sky,<br /> +By many a pile, in more than Eastern pride,<br /> +Of old the residence of merchant kings;<br /> +The fronts of some, tho’ time hath shattered them,<br /> +Still glowing with the richest hues of art,<br /> +As though the wealth within them had run o’er.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Our arrival at Venice was about eight o’clock in the +evening, surely no time so fitting to be introduced to the fair +Queen of the Adriatic. From the busy, bustling railway +station we were concluded by a Fakena, who brought up our luggage +to a gondola lying in the shimmering sea just outside. No +cabs or ’bus as at other stations, the gondola seemed to be +everywhere. As we stepped into our new found equipage we +were entranced, imagination fails to picture a sight so +bewitching. Lights in a thousand directions, gondolas +passing and repassing as we sweep through the principal waterway, +then turn sharp round a corner as our gondolier cries: +“Stali priene gai e” as he passes others with most +wonderful precision. We were thus conveyed to the door of +the Grand Hotel <a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +104</span>Victoria, where for a short time we were to make our +home. We found the house all we could desire, warm, clean +sweet, and fitted up almost luxuriantly. To bed and a rest, +and oh! how sweet after toil and travel. We were awake and +out early to see the sights of this unique city. We opened +our eyes on a lovely picture, soft, dreamy, beautiful. The +water, dotted over in all directions, with this strange +craft. It seems this is the only means of locomotion. +No cabs, omnibuses, carts, or even a barrow. There is no +animal in Venice larger than a dog. Here the universal bike +cometh not. The fashionable or unfashionable motor neither +puffs nor smells. The train must not approach nearer than +the head of the Grand Canal. A horse would be as great a +novelty in Venice, I should think, as a ship in full sail would +be in Wheeler Gate, Nottingham. Right from the +water’s edge at our hotel door, we could see gondolas +gliding swiftly hither and thither. In Byron’s +“Beppo” we find the following lines:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Did’st ever see a Gondola; for fear +you should not<br /> +I’ll describe it exactly,<br /> +’Tis a long covered boat common here,<br /> +Carved at the prow, built lightly but compactly,<br /> +<a name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>Rowed by +two rowers, each called gondolier;<br /> +It glides along the water looking blackly,<br /> +Just like a coffin clapt in a canal,<br /> +Where none can make out what you say or do.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p104.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Mrs. Wardle and Miss Himmel in gondola, Venice" +title= +"Mrs. Wardle and Miss Himmel in gondola, Venice" +src="images/p104.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Appearing suddenly, through unsuspected gateways and alleys, +yonder, we see vast bridges and stately palaces of marble throw +their shadows athwart the glittering waves. There seems +life and motion everywhere, and yet there is no noise. +There seems a hush as if suggestive of secret enterprise, of +mysterious shadows, of the departed greatness of this still great +city. Old Petrarch might well exclaim: “I know not +that the world hath the equal of this place.”</p> +<p>Standing at our hotel door, the gondolier waiting for my wife +and our friend Miss Himmel, I ventured (after they had seated +themselves) to take a snap with my camera to secure some little +permanent reminder of the curiosity of this manner of +travel. The gondola is a most handy and quick means of +getting about. We were out in the Grand Canal, and the +sight was, to say the least, most interesting. Here is a +party of young ladies and gentlemen, with their gondola decorated +with ribbons in various colours, and with them, evidently, an +opera or chorus party, with their guitar, and some other <a +name="page106"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 106</span>peculiar +instruments of music, but sweet as the evening zephyrs, as the +sounds floated over the silvery sea. The gondolas are all +black, why? I am unable to say; but I don’t think I +saw one either brown or red, or green or white, simply painted +black. The stern of the boat is usually decorated with a +kind of matting or carpet, at its prow the gondolier stands, he +has only a single oar. A long bladed oar, so he stands +erect. How he can scull ahead at such a speed is a mystery, +and at once pull back when there is danger. He seems to +make all his calculations with the greatest precision, he never +makes a mistake. Mark Twain says: “The gondolier is a +picturesque rascal for all he wears no satin harness, no plumed +bonnet, no silken tights. His attitude is stately, he is +lithe and supple; all his movements are full of grace.”</p> +<p>A party of ladies go out shopping in a gondola, this may seem +strange, but it is really true. They flit from street to +street, and from shop to shop, they leave the gondola as a lady +here leaves her carriage or her motor, by the curb, while they +have rolls and rolls of silk or muslin or linen unrolled, and +then, perhaps, have just enough cloth to make the pet dog at home +a paletot. Human nature, we find, is much the same the +world over. Boys and girls go to school in the <a +name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>gondola, +while they jump and kick, and fight on the way, but only in play, +until landed at the school house gateway. Nurses are out in +the gondola with babies for an airing, and to pass away the sunny +hours on the waters. Families go to church in the gondolas, +dressed in their best, they are soon sculled to the place where +they are wont to worship. The mail boat is a gondola, with +its freight of letters newly arrived, and is always +interesting. Funerals are also carried out in the same +way. The gondola is heavily draped in black velvet and +silver trimmings, and furnished with huge candles lighted, +surmounting the canopy, under which lies one who, in his turn has +trodden the silent highways in the enjoyment of health, but is +now on his last journey, accompanied by the solemn chant of the +priestly requiem. Business men come or go in the gondola as +we do here in cab or motor. The doctor visits his patients +in and out of the quaint old city, not on a bicycle, but in a +gondola. We saw a party flitting, the furniture remover +brought his gondolas, and furniture was handed out into this +strange vehicle for such a purpose. At Venice it is common, +indeed, the only way possible of conveying goods or furniture +from house to house. So, for almost all purposes, the +gondola is useful. We found it a most <a +name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>enjoyable, +as well as a speedy means of getting about. To say there +are no streets in Venice would be hardly true, or to say you +cannot get from place to place only by water. There are +only three bridges cross the Grand Canal which divides the city +into pretty nearly equal halves. The city is built upon one +hundred and seventeen islands, intersected by one hundred and +fifty small canals, and two thousand five hundred and eighty +passages or waterways; but almost all the waterways have a +footpath bordering it, while four hundred bridges unite one +island to another. It is, however, very bewildering to pace +the mazes of this strange city. If you get five hundred +yards from your starting point, you may have to cross half a +dozen bridges before you can get back again.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p108.jpg"> +<img alt= +"St. Mark’s Cathedral, Venice" +title= +"St. Mark’s Cathedral, Venice" +src="images/p108.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Our first visit was paid to the cathedral or church of St. +Mark’s, and this wonderful building, for it is a wonderful +place, has a wonderful history; it is this: when the Caliph of +Alexandria, who was bitterly opposed to the Christian religion, +was building for himself a magnificent palace, he gave orders +that the most precious marbles were to be procured for its +adornment, and to this end the Christian churches were to be +stripped of their richest treasure. A raid was made on the +church of St. Mark at Alexandria, where <a +name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>the body of +the Saint was said to rest in a state of spiritual repose, and so +great was the grief of the two Greek Priests who officiated in +the temple that their cries and lamentations came to the ears of +two Venetian merchants who chanced to be trading in that +port. When these merchants found out the cause of their +trouble they offered to take away the body of St. Mark and secure +for it a sweet resting place in their own country. The +Priests at first disliked the idea, but when the temple was +profaned and robbed and stripped of all that made it attractive, +they gave consent. It was a work that was very risky they +thought, for St. Mark had been known to work strange miracles, +and was held in great awe and veneration by the people. +However, they entered the tomb in which the body lay, cut open +the wrapper in which the sacred remains were enfolded, removed +the body and substituted the body of St. Claudian therein. +How to carry the body away safely was their next +consideration. They fell upon the following +stratagem. Placing the body in a large basket covered with +herbs and savoury joints of pork, they bore it along the streets +crying: “Khan zir! Khan zir!” Pork! +Pork! A cry hateful to all true Mussulmen. In this +manner they reached the vessel with their precious burden in +safety, where, in <a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +110</span>order to make sure of their prize, they concealed the +body in the sails until they left the city. It is said the +Venetians received the sacred remains with wild demonstrations of +joy. A succession of fetes were given, ceremonies were held +in honour of the Saint, pilgrims flocked to the shrine from all +parts of the world. A revival in the fortunes of the +Venetian Republic followed, and for a time the cry was often +heard “Viva san Marco!” To secure a fitting +resting place for the body thus secured from Alexandria, this +church of St. Mark was built. It is a five domed Romanesque +structure, decked with 500 marble columns. It contains more +than 45,000 square feet of mosaics of the tenth century. In +form it is of a Greek cross. Marble from the Haram floors +of Eastern potentates panel its walls and cover its principal +porticos, and over its grand portals stand the four horses of +gilded bronze which were taken from the arches of Nero and Trajan +at Rome. They were first taken by Constantine in the fourth +century after Christ to Venice. Then they were taken from +Venice again, and this time to Paris by Napoleon, but they were +restored to Venice in the year 1815. And here, as we saw +them, they look most attractive. The Campanile or Tower of +St. Mark’s is not a part of the building, but <a +name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>stands a +little way off. It rises to the height of 322 feet, and at +the top is one of the largest and finest vanes I ever saw, it is +that of an angel with wings outstretched gilded with gold. +It was from the tower of St. Mark’s that Galileo made most +of his astronomical observations. We visited several +churches of importance, but they are pretty much alike. All +have their high altars and immense wax candles burning; the +picture of the Madonna in prominent places. The +confessional box for the natives, also for strangers and +travellers such as we were. We, however, declined to +patronize this particular line. If we must confess at all, +we certainly take the Psalmist for our ideal, he said: “I +said I will confess my transgressions unto the Lord, and thou +forgavest the iniquity of my sins.” Psalm 32, verse +5. Plenty of Holy Water and evidently plentifully used, as +nearly every one coming in puts his fingers in the bowl and makes +the sign of the cross on his forehead. Cowled monks paced +the floor with noiseless tread. Priests and Bishops in +their distinctive dress are not scarce. I gathered from +some source that there are 1,200 priests in Venice, a city of +about 100,000 people. It seems as if everything had to bend +to the church and the priest. In the church you have riches +without end, there are huge columns carved out of <a +name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 112</span>solid +marble and inlaid from top to bottom with hundreds of delicate +figures wrought in costly verde antique; pulpits of the richest +material, whose draperies hang down in many a lovely picture, +showing the artist’s work from the loom. The Grand +Altar, brilliant with agate, jasper and all manner of precious +stones and slabs of what is almost priceless, the lapis lazuli, +which is on all sides lavishly laid as if of no value. Yet +in the midst of all this display of wealth and of lavish +expenditure, all about and at the doors of the churches a dozen +or more of hats or bonnets are doffed and heads bowed in mute +appeal and a hundred hands extended appealing for help. +Appealing in a language we could not understand, but with sad, +pitiful eyes and hollow cheeks and tattered garments, no words +were needed to translate their wants. I wondered why all +these riches should lie idle and so many poor actually +starving. Mark Twain, when visiting Italy, said: “Oh! +Sons of classic Italy, is the spirit of enterprize, of self +reliance, of noble endeavour, utterly dead within ye. Why +don’t you rob the church?”</p> +<h2><a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +113</span>CHAPTER XI.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">The Pigeons in St. Mark’s Square: +Further description of the interior: The Palace of the Doges: +“The Bridge of Sighs”: The general Archives of +Venice: The Church of Santa Maria dei Frari: London Polytechnic +Party: Some of the slums of Venice: Our farewell.</p> +<p>In the Piazza of St. Mark’s there may be seen, almost +any time, some hundreds of pigeons. They are very tame, we +passed them so closely I think we could have picked them up in +our arms. There is an old legend that these pigeons are the +safety valve of Venice. How? it is difficult to learn, but +they are regarded almost with reverence. Twice a day they +are fed by the public authorities. A huge bell is rung, and +they come from all quarters of the city. They know the time +of feeding and to show visitors that this is true, when the bell +is not rung, the pigeons are there. If anyone hurts or +kills one of these pigeons, he is fined heavily for the first +offence, if it is repeated he is imprisoned. We went inside +this beautiful church of St. Mark’s and at first we could +not realise the magnificence, the beauty, the costliness of its +interior. The columns of <a name="page114"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 114</span>porphry and amalachite and verde +antique, panels glittering with gold and gems, pavements dazzling +in mosaic work.</p> +<p>After some time we began to realize the splendours by which we +were surrounded. Mr. Ruskin, I think, gives a fine picture +in very simple words of the beauties and richness of St. +Mark’s: “Then opens before us a vast cave hewn out in +the form of a cross, and divided into shadowy aisles by many +pillars. Round the domes of its roof, the light enters only +through narrow apertures, like large stars; here and there a ray +or two from some far away casement wanders into darkness, and +casts a narrow phosphoric stream upon the waves of marble that +heave and fall in a thousand colours upon the floor. What +else there is of light is from torches or silver lamps burning +ceaselessly in the recesses of the chapels. The roof +sheathed with gold, and the polished walls, covered with rich +alabaster, gives back at every curve and angle some feeble +gleaming to the flames: and the glories round the heads of the +sculptured saints flash out upon us as we pass them, and sink +into gloom. Under foot and over head a continual succession +of crowded imagery, one picture passing into another as in a +dream; forms beautiful and terrible, mixed together, dragons and +serpents and ravenous beasts of <a name="page115"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 115</span>prey, and graceful birds that in the +midst of them, drink from running fountains and feed from vases +of crystal. The passions and pleasures of human life +symbolized together and the mystery of its redemption; for the +mass of interwoven lines and changeful pictures lead always at +last to the Cross lifted and carved in every place and upon every +stone, sometimes with the serpent of eternity wrapped around it, +with doves beneath its arms, and sweet herbage growing forth from +its feet. But conspicuous most of all is the great road +that crosses the church before the altar, raised in the bright +blazonry against the shadow of the Apse.”</p> +<p>To describe all the interior of this lovely structure would be +as easy as to describe our British Museum in London. We +were enchanted, bewildered, surprised. The baptistery, with +its sculptured front, and for an altar piece a massive granite +slab, on which, it is alleged, our Lord stood when he preached to +the inhabitants of Tyre. Then the choir stalls are rich in +carvings of every description, indeed, everywhere about us are +treasures unspeakable. The outside is hardly less wonderful +than the inside, with its domes, spires, statues, arches and +columns, which fairly bewilder you, as for the first time your +eyes fall upon such marvellous productions of <a +name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 116</span>the skilful +workmanship of man. The King’s palace or what is +called the Palace of the Doges is just against the Piazza or +Square of St. Mark’s. Against one of the columns at +the entrance I took a snapshot of my dear wife and our friend +Miss Himmel. This place is full of things ancient and +interesting. Ruskin says of its many coloured marbles, +columns, arches, and curiously sculptured windows: “A piece +of rich and fantastic colour, as lovely a dream as ever filled +the imagination.” It has been twice destroyed by +fire, but from the ashes it has arisen more beautiful than ever; +here it stands to-day a monument of a strange and eventful +history of over one thousand years.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p116.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Mrs. Wardle and Miss Himmel by The Doges Pillar, Venice" +title= +"Mrs. Wardle and Miss Himmel by The Doges Pillar, Venice" +src="images/p116.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The power of the Doges it seems, was an absolute power for a +time, yet was of uncertain tenure. Out of fifty, it is +said, five abdicated, nine were exiled, five were banished and +their eyes put out, and five were massacred, this up to +1172. Life was of little value in those days, even amongst +kings, nor was it less so amongst the people, as often a man +accused was condemned without trial, punishment was swift and +sure and secret, generally by strangulation in prison, or by +drowning, hands tied and body weighted. It was no uncommon +sight in those days in this land to see a body swinging from the +gallows by the <a name="page117"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +117</span>wayside. No one dared to enquire about the +unhappy man’s fate, or he stood in danger of similar +treatment. Everywhere there was unsafety and fear. As +Rogers, one of our poets, puts it:</p> +<blockquote><p>“A strange mysterious power was there,<br /> +Moving throughout; subtle, invisible<br /> +And universal as the air they breathed.<br /> +A power that never slumbered, never pardoned,<br /> +All eye, all ear, nowhere, and everywhere;<br /> +Most potent when least thought of—Nothing dropt<br /> +In secret, when the heart was on the lips,<br /> +Nothing in feverish sleep, but instantly<br /> +Observed and judged—A power that if but glanced at<br /> +In casual converse, be it where it might,<br /> +The speaker lowered at once his eyes, his voice<br /> +And pointed upwards as to God in heaven.<br /> +But, let him in the midnight air indulge<br /> +A word, a thought against the laws of Venice,<br /> +And in that hour he vanished from the earth.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Those were dark days in this city of wealth and power. +We were not permitted inside the palace, but were allowed to +ascend the staircase at the head of which is the famous +“lions’ mouths,” into which, in ancient times, +were placed terrible denunciations, secret <a +name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>letters, +etc., which meant, what I have already referred to, imprisonment, +torture or death. Also, along a long corridor, where we +could see the busts of the Venetian heroes, whose names were +enrolled in the “Golden Book.” Beyond is the +hall of the Grand Council, in which are some of the richest and +most valuable pictures in Venice. There is +Tintoretto’s masterpiece, “The glory of +Paradise,” the largest picture (74 feet long) ever painted +on canvas, the most precious thing in Venice to-day. From +the hall of the Grand Council, there is further on the hall of +the Council of Ten. Indeed, the rooms are so many, so large +and so full of things of interest, we left the place greatly +interested and very tired.</p> +<p>Another marvellous old church we visited was erected in +1565. It is, however, much like other churches, full of +pictures, bronze statues and carvings in wood in great +variety. The tomb of Titian is an object of interest in the +Church of Frari, but time does not permit us to dwell upon +it. The offices of the general archives of Venice are very +fine buildings, they were in the cloisters of the Frari, they are +now simply the resting places of the most ancient records of the +old republic. It is said there are now over fourteen +million volumes of immense value stored there. They occupy +thirteen large rooms. The museum <a +name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>is a place +worth a visit to those who are interested in curios. It +belongs to the city, and in it are many curiosities, chiefly +artistical and archaeological—antique medals, armoury, +engravings, books, ivory, engraved stones. It is a place of +great interest.</p> +<p>We crossed the famous “Bridge of Sighs,” +immortalised by Lord Byron, who says:</p> +<blockquote><p>“I stood in Venice, on the bridge of +sighs,<br /> +A palace and a prison on each hand.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It was built in the year 1610. We could not fail to +remember Tom Hood’s pathetic poem, written, it is believed, +after seeing a poor girl, one of the unfortunates, whose corpse +has just been discovered in the cold black waters under this +bridge of sighs—Drowned! drowned!</p> +<blockquote><p>“One more unfortunate weary of breath,<br /> +Rashly importunate, gone to her death;<br /> +Take her up tenderly, lift her with care;<br /> +Fashioned so slenderly, young and so fair.<br /> +Touch her not scornfully, think of her mournfully,<br /> +Gently and humanly; not of the stains of her,<br /> +All that remains of her now is pure womanly.<br /> +Make no deep scrutiny into her mutiny,<br /> +Rash and undutiful, past all dishonour,<br /> +Death has left on her only the beautiful.<br /> +<a name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>Still +for all slips of hers, one of Eve’s family,<br /> +Wipe those poor lips of hers, oozing so clammily.<br /> +Loop up her tresses, escaped from the comb,<br /> +Her fair auburn tresses, while wonderment guesses<br /> +Where was her home? Who was her father?<br /> +Who was her mother? Had she a sister?<br /> +Had she a brother? Or was there a dearer one<br /> +Still and a nearer one yet than the others?<br /> +Alas for the rarity of christian charity<br /> +Under the sun, Oh! it was pitiful!<br /> +Near to a city full, home she had none.<br /> +Where the lamps quiver, so far on the river,<br /> +With many a light from window and casement<br /> +From garret to basement, she stood with amazement<br /> +Homeless by night. The bleak wind of March<br /> +Made her tremble and quiver, but not the dark arch<br /> +Or the black flowing river, mad with life’s history<br /> +Glad to death’s mystery, swift to be hurled<br /> +Anywhere, anywhere, out of the world.<br /> +In she plunged boldly, no matter how coldly<br /> +The rough river ran.<br /> +Over the brink of it. Picture it, think of it.<br /> +Then if you can, take her up tenderly,<br /> +Lift her with care; fashioned so slenderly,<br /> +<a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 121</span>So young +and so fair. E’er her limbs frigidly<br /> +Stiffen so rigidly, decently, kindly<br /> +Smooth and compose them, and her eyes close them<br /> +Staring so blindly, dreadfully staring<br /> +Through muddy impurity. As when the daring<br /> +Last look of despairing, fixed on futurity.<br /> +Perishing gloomily, spurned by contumely,<br /> +Cold inhumanity, burning insanity,<br /> +Into her rest—Cross her hands humbly<br /> +As if praying dumbly, over her breast.<br /> +Owning her weakness, her evil behaviour,<br /> +And leaving with meakness her sins to her Saviour.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The bridge derives its name from the fact that criminals +crossed it from the judge’s chamber to the prison. +This passage used to be on the bridge: “The way of the +transgressors is hard.” The bridge is a single arch +of one span of ninety feet. There are some nice shops on +the top. Our next visit was to the church of San G. +Maggiore. Amongst so many churches that we visited, I must +not omit to name the old church of Santa Mari dei Frari. It +is about five hundred years old. It is said the heart of +Titian lies somewhere here. He died at the age of about one +hundred years. A plague was raging at the time of his +death, which carried away <a name="page122"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 122</span>something like fifty thousand of the +inhabitants of Venice. Yet such was the esteem in which he +was held, the state permitted a public funeral in that season of +death and terror. In this church there is a fine monument +to one of the Kings “Foscari.” It is in its way +a curiosity. It is over forty feet high, and is fronted in +such a peculiar fashion, I could only liken it to some heathen +temple. Against it are four black men, as black as the +blackest marble could be, dressed in white garments of +marble. Their black legs are bare, and through places that +seem torn in breeches and sleeves, the shining black marble +shows. Above all this sits the departed Doge or King.</p> +<p>“The Church of Santa Maria della Salute.” On +our way home we dropped from our gondola to have a look at this +sacred building. It stands nearly at the entrance of the +Grand Canal. A hundred statues adorn the facades. It +is said the building rests upon over one million massive piles +driven deeply into the sea. It was erected in response to a +vow, so it is said, in the year 1631. Sixty thousand +inhabitants were swept away by a terrible plague. The then +Doge vowed a vow to build a costly church in honour of the +Virgin, if the plague was stayed, from the day the vow was made, +no <a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>more +deaths occurred, and every year this event is commemorated in a +festival. Reaching home tired, we soon went to bed and +rested. Rising refreshed and it being Sunday morning, we +felt a need of our English Sabbath with its quiet rest and +worship. This, however, was partly supplied by a party from +the Polytechnic in London, who, we found, were sleeping at our +hotel, so we joined them, after we had breakfasted, in their +songs, and so passed a part of the sacred day happily and +pleasantly. We visited one of the principal manufactories +of mosaics and carvings. A gentleman, who spoke fairly good +English, escorted us through these extensive works. The +building was, at one time, one of the Ducal Palaces. Room +after room, full of the finest mosaics, cameos, china works in +every conceivable variety, statuary, and carvings. Some of +these works of art are almost priceless. We bought a few +small specimens of the Venetians’ workmanship. These +large palaces of days long past are crumbling to ruins. +Byron says:</p> +<blockquote><p>“In Venice Tasso’s echoes are no +more,<br /> + And silent rows the songless gondolier.<br /> +Her palaces are crumbling on the shore,<br /> + And music greets not always now the ear.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Among the many places of interest in this <a +name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 124</span>very +interesting old-world city, that we cannot stay to describe, are +the Mint, the Arsenal, the Public Gardens, Titian’s house, +Academy of Fine Arts, etc. We had just a look at what we +should call the slums, I mean the places where live the poor, and +the poor are very poor. Someone has compared Venice to a +page of music, with its curious streets, palaces, museums, canals +and bridges, resembling lines, notes, double notes, crotchets, +pauses; its long and straight, its short, narrow and crooked +ways, its open spaces scattered up and down, its mounting and +descending of bridges. The comparison holds good in as far +as the stranger may easily lose his way and not easily find it +again, in this maze of land and water. In Venice nearly +everything is sold in the open-air in the poorer quarters, and +almost everything that is eaten, is eaten in the open-air. +Stalls, where fish or mutton is grilled or fried, and passed hot +into the al fresco customer’s hands. Turning into a +sequestered nook resembling one of the openings in our Narrow +Marsh, we saw a number of girls, very good looking damsels, with +guitars and dulcimers, they were giving a serenade to the poor of +that quarter. They are the pearl threaders. The pearl +threading is an occupation prevalent in Venice, as embroidery was +at one time in <a name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +125</span>England. A home of the poor was being removed +from one house to another, the furniture consisted simply of a +bedstead and a huge chest or coffer with a stool or two, and a +small wooden table. These constituted their whole +inventory. Nothing of marble or mosaic here. Nothing +of gold or purple, only squalor, poverty and rags. And now +we think we have seen Venice, our time also is used up or nearly +so. We have surely seen enough of the profusion of costly +ornamentation in the old churches. We gazed upon pictures +until our eyes were weary of looking at the finest works of the +painters’ art ever produced. We have surely learned +something in this old-world city of the deeds and doings of +bygone ages. To have seen St. Mark’s and its +wonderful Campanile or Tower, and the Palace of the ancient Kings +or Doges, and the Grand Square, and the Bronze Horses that figure +in so many legends (it is said there are hundreds of people in +this curious old city that have never seen a living horse). +We think we have now seen Venice, and if this had been all we had +seen on this tour, it would be worth all the cost and all the +trouble to have seen this city on the sea.</p> +<p>Our new found friend, Miss Himmel, left us in the early +morning, her next visit was to Munich. We wished her +good-bye and God <a name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +126</span>speed, for in our very short acquaintance we had +learned to look upon her as a dear friend. And so we leave +Venice, calling it as Goethe does: “a grand work of +collective human effort. A glorious monument, not of a +ruler, but a people.” So we departed, our gondola was +at our hotel door early, we settled up, he swung out and we were +at the station and caught the 9.45 for Milan.</p> +<h2><a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +127</span>CHAPTER XII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Arrival in Milan: Our visit to the Cathedral: +Its Spires, and Turrets: Its Stained Glass Windows, Altars, +Pictures, and Sculpture: The Church of St. Ambrogio: The Bera +Picture Gallery: The Hospital: Leaving Milan: Arrival at Como: +Lake Como.</p> +<p>As we steamed out of this dear old city, a palace of dreams, +we looked back with a lingering desire to know her better. +Across the lagoons we were soon out of waterways and amongst the +mountains of Italy; scenery lovely, bewitching, enchanting. +With a certain poet</p> +<blockquote><p>“I ask myself is this a dream?<br /> + Will it all vanish into thin air?<br /> +Is there a land of such supreme<br /> + And perfect beauty anywhere?”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>For a long time we sped on through mountainous country whose +peaks were bright with sunshine, the hillsides were dotted with +pretty villas, which were surrounded with lovely gardens full of +shubbery, or ravines that looked cool and shady. Before the +day had begun to wane, we caught glimpses of <a +name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 128</span>the great +city of Milan, and soon we were being driven to “Hotel +Europe.” We found it all we could desire, large, +clean, well fitted and most moderate. Our great desire, of +course, was to see the wonderful cathedral. We had heard so +much of this grand, solemn, vast, airy, peaceful building, that +we could hardly sleep for the thought that we were so near what +our eyes were aching to see. We rose refreshed, and, after +a good breakfast, we sallied forth to feast our eyes on the +object we had heard of so often, but never seen. Into the +streets we went in a fever of excitement. In this direction +and in that, around us, behind us, before us were busy +crowds. At last, a very forest of graceful spires, +shimmering in the light of the lovely morning sun, burst upon our +view. We needed no one to tell us what it was. The +Cathedral! my dear wife exclaimed. We knew it in a +moment. How sharply its angles and its hundred of spires +are cut against the sky. It is like a vision! Some +one has said: “a poem wrought in marble.” From +whatever standpoint you view Milan Cathedral, it is noble, it is +beautiful. You can see it from almost any point of the +city, and for many miles outside it is visible. We were at +its doors early in the morning. The central one of the five +is finely bordered with <a name="page129"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 129</span>a bas-relief of birds and fruits, +beasts and insects, so ingeniously carved that they look as if +they were really living things. On entering, we felt as +though we might hear a strange voice saying: “Put off thy +shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standst is +holy ground.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p128.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Milan Cathedral, Milan" +title= +"Milan Cathedral, Milan" +src="images/p128.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>And the lines of Milton at once rose to our lips.</p> +<blockquote><p>“But let my dear feet never fail<br /> +To walk the studious cloisters’ pale,<br /> +And love the high embowered roof<br /> +With antique pillars, massive proof<br /> +And storied windows richly dight,<br /> +Casting a dim religious light.<br /> +There let the pealing organ blow<br /> +In service high and anthems clear<br /> +As may with sweetness through mine ear<br /> +Dissolve me into ecstacies,<br /> +And bring all heaven before mine eyes.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And Tennyson says:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Oh! Milan! oh! the charming choirs!<br /> +The giant windows blazoned fires,<br /> +The height, the space, the gloom, the glory,<br /> +A mount of marble, a hundred spires.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We were amazed at the magnitude, the brilliancy, the beauty of +all its interior parts. In every nook and cranny and corner +there is some lovely statuary, or vase, or painting, <a +name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>and every +one is a study in itself, every face is eloquent with expression, +and every attitude is full of grace. You can trace the +master mind and hand of Michael Angelo or Raphael in the many +objects of interest that arrest attention. “Long rows +of fluted columns, like huge mountains, divide the building into +broad aisles.” The lovely stained glass windows, one +of which contains no less than sixty panes; these throw in the +soft morning light their shadows upon the marble floor of the +aisles. We quietly strolled along, viewing with admiration +the pictures and mosaics so artistically arranged by their +thousands of small pieces of coloured glass, until the whole +seems to have the finish of a picture. Our guide showed us +many things of interest, which we might have missed but for his +aid. A piece of sculpture, the colour of a coffee bean, was +shown to us, and our guide stated it was believed to be the work +of that famous artist, Phidias. It is a figure of a man +without a skin, with every vein, artery and muscle, every fibre +and tendon and tissue of the human frame shown in the minutest +detail. It was not a very attractive object to look upon, +yet it was a work of skill and genius. The staircases to +the roof are of the whitest of white marble. There is no +stone, no brick, no wood apparently amongst its <a +name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 131</span>building +material. We did not feel like going up the one hundred and +eighty-two steps, to gain the summit of this great block, we +contented ourselves with a general view from the floor. The +statues up in the niches high, looked like tiny dolls, while they +are really the size of a man. There are niches for nearly +five thousand statues, but only about three thousand are filled +up-to-date. We were not allowed to see the treasures and +relics, these are most valuable and curious. We learn there +is treasure inside the coffers to the value of six million +francs. This is in silver and gold bas-reliefs and images +of Bishops, Cardinals, Madonnas and Saints, Crosses, Croziers and +Candlesticks. For relics they have a stone from the Holy +Sepulchre in Jerusalem, a fragment of the purple robe worn by Our +Saviour, two of St. Paul’s fingers, and a bone of Judas +Iscariot, a nail from the real cross on which Our Saviour +died. Once every year these sacred relics come out of their +dusty archives, and are carried in a grand procession through the +city, amid the acclaims of a deluded people. On the High +Altar is a very fine tabernacle of gilt bronze adorned with +figures of Our Saviour and the twelve disciples, the gift of one +of the ancient Popes. A magnificent candelabrum hangs from +the roof of the choir <a name="page132"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 132</span>stall. Beneath the choir is a +small subterranean church, in which services are held in the +winter months, as it is much warmer than in the great cathedral +above. This lower church is from the designs of Pellegrini, +and from this church is an entrance to the Chapel of St. +Carlo. This Saint, it appears, was born about 1505, and was +specially good to the poor, as he sold his life interest in some +property and distributed it amongst the hospitals and charities +of the city. He tried to introduce some salutary +improvements into the church, for the scandalous manner of living +of the priests had become notorious. For his desire to +reform their habits, an attempt was made to assassinate +him. Several of the attempts failed, they then hired a +priest named Farina to execute the bloody deed. He gained +access to this private chapel, and as San Carlo was kneeling +before the altar, he fired at him with an old blunderbuss, just +at the moment he was chanting: “Let not your heart be +troubled, neither let it be afraid.” The bullet +struck him on the back but did not penetrate his silken stole, +but dropped harmlessly to the ground. This failure of the +attempt to murder him was considered an interposition of Divine +Providence. He died, however, at the early age of +forty-six. His death was <a name="page133"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 133</span>hastened by the severe austerity of +his life. His body is deposited in a gorgeous shrine of +silver, the gift of Philip IV., of Spain, and he lies in his full +canonicals and can be seen through panes of rock crystals. +Upon the sarcophagus is worked in rich tapestry San Carlo’s +favourite motto: “Humility.” There are several +busts of San Carlo, also a fine statue. A mitre, also said +to be worn by this Italian worthy during the plague, it is +beautifully embroidered with feathers of the choicest and richest +hues. There are many churches in all the cities of Italy +that are full of interest, some have been so much modernized +that, from the outside, there appears nothing unusual, but once +you are inside, surprise follows surprise. Saint Ambrogio +is one of these. The moment you get inside you are +interested, statues of costly marble, silver shrines, columns of +marble, vast and numerous. One of the great sights is the +splendid facing of the altar, which is a marvellous display of +the goldsmiths’ art. A fee of five francs must be +paid to see it, the front of the altar is of rich plates of gold, +the back and sides are of silver, all richly enamelled and set +with precious stones, the golden front is in three divisions, +each contains smaller compartments; in the centre one are nine +containing the emblems of the <a name="page134"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 134</span>four Evangelists and the twelve +Apostles. The transfiguration is also clearly seen amongst +them. On one side are to be seen eight angels bearing +vials, on the other side are the four archangels—Michael, +Gabriel, Raphael and Uriel. But the back is quite as full +of interest; like the front it consists of three grand +compartments, and these are divided into similar tablets. +On one of the first is seen a swarm of bees buzzing around the +head of a sleeping child. The legend, when explained, tells +us that when St. Ambrose was born in the year 340 <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span>, a swarm of bees were thus seen +around the head of the infant while in his cradle while lying in +the palace of his father, and as no harm followed, it was said to +be an omen of his future eloquence and power. He was chosen +Bishop of Milan in the year 375 <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> Other emblems, indeed they are +too numerous to mention. On the right side of the nave is a +large serpent of brass. Tradition states it is the serpent +of brass which was set up in the wilderness for the +serpent-bitten Israelites to look upon and live. Tradition +is not always truth. In the centre of the choir is a +curious marble throne, called the chair of St. Ambrose, its +appearance is very ancient, it is decorated with figures of lions +and strange carvings. We left this interesting sanctum <a +name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 135</span>as we had +left other churches—impressed, instructed and +grieved. The Brera Picture Gallery or Museum is also well +worth a visit. It originally belonged to the Umiliate Order +of Jesuits. It is of immense size, and its frescoes are +simply magnificent. Amongst them I may name “The +Virgin and Child, with St. John and the Lamb”; three girls +playing a game then called “hot cockles”; “A +youth riding on a white horse”; “Child seated amongst +vines and grapes”; “The Virgin and St. Joseph +proceeding to their marriage at the Temple”; two minstrels, +such as usually accompany wedding parties; “The martyrdom +of St. Sebastian;” “The Israelites preparing to leave +Egypt”; “The Prophet Habakkuk awakened by the +Angel”; “Three cupids with musical +instruments.” I believe there are thirteen rooms all +full of the finest works of arts to be found anywhere out of +Rome. The botanical gardens are not, to my mind, equal even +to our own in this country. The Grand Hospital of Milan is +well worth looking at from the outside, built in the year +1456. The first stone was laid by Antonia Filarte. As +you enter the great gateway, a very fine quadrangle appears in +view, and there is a double colonnade of arches, twenty-one on +one side and nineteen on the other. I was told that over +thirty <a name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +136</span>thousand patients passed through this hospital every +year. It can accommodate at once about five thousand +people. Monuments abound outside that have been raised to +the memory of the principal benefactors. The theatres of +Milan are really palaces of beauty; indeed, I learn that Milan is +known by the magnificence of its theatres. The principal +one is La Scala. It is said to be the largest and the best +arranged of any in Italy, It is capable of holding three thousand +six hundred spectators easily. There are forty-one boxes in +each row. We did not go inside as our time was fully taken +up with other scenes and places. There is a Church of +England, or rather services rendered by a clergyman of the Church +of England. The Protestants in Milan are very few. +There are several Free Church services conducted in the city, but +the buildings are not of any special character. From +observation I should say four-fifths of the inhabitants are Roman +Catholics. The city has now a population of over four +hundred thousand. We visited a good many parts of this +beautiful busy city. It has some very fine squares, some +noble monuments, some pretty gardens; also shops of all kinds, +and goods may be had at reasonable prices. We secured some +small mementoes that were not very difficult to <a +name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>pack and +carry away. After a few days stay we agreed to move +on. So packing once again, and settling up our accounts, +and tipping the waiters (it is unpardonable to leave without +doing this), our luggage was once more on the ’bus, and we +were lumbering along to the railway station, now to make our way +to Como, and so on to Lucerne through the great St. Gothard +tunnel. We had only a little while to wait, and our train +came in with a roar and a hiss. A few minutes and we have +left behind us one of the sights that will linger long with +us. “The Cathedral of Milan,” for some distance +we could see it behind us, and in front of us snow-clad mountains +some twenty miles away, our interest deepened as we proceeded, +for the beauties nature’s bounteous hand has spread all +over Italy is one continual surprise and joy. In less than +an hour our train steamed into the station at Como. This is +not a large place, but looks very pretty as it nestles in quite +an amphitheatre of hills. Como was the home of Pliny, and +it is said to have been a very fashionable resort at the time of +the Cæsars. In the middle ages it became an +independent republic, and for a long time held its own against +the large city of Milan. It is now a very prosperous little +town, and it is said rivals Lyons in some <a +name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 138</span>respects +for its beautiful production of silks. It is surrounded by +Olive yards and Orange groves, and near by is the beautiful lake +of Como. This is one of the most beautiful of all lakes of +lovely Italy we have seen, and we had seen several from our +carriage windows, and it was only from this point we could gaze +upon this scene of loveliness. Time did not permit us to +leave the train to explore and to enjoy. We could see its +blue waters shimmering under a warm glow of sunshine. The +surroundings are very interesting and beautiful, the eye does not +grow weary in tracing the outline of the hills which surround +it. I do not wonder at the Psalmist saying: “I will +lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my +help.” Psalm 121. For surely earth cannot +present, nor unassisted reason fancy or conceive an object more +profoundly significant of Divine Majesty than these hills clothed +in their vestures at the top, by everlasting snow. In their +presence “There is silence deep as death, and the boldest +hold their breath.” The slopes of the hills are +covered with a very lovely verdure of green, intersected here and +there by glens. On one side there are crags and precipices, +under whose shelter the vine hangs in bright green +festoons. The Olive tree also is in good evidence, as shown +by its gnarled and <a name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +139</span>knotted stem; Orchards and fine Chestnut trees in rich +profusion. Passing along we see the white foam of a +waterfall as it shines amongst the verdure or leaps over the +rocky crags and comes dashing and splashing down the +hillside. Further on we see the little white houses dotting +the hillsides, as if they grew out of the same. Then a +single arch of a bridge that spans a small ravine and unites one +little cluster of houses with another, giving interest to the +whole surroundings. In another hour and a half we were +steaming into beautiful Lugano.</p> +<h2><a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +140</span>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Lugano: The river Tessin and its bridge of ten +arches: Bellinzono: Entrance to the great St. Gothard Tunnel: +Andermatt Station: St. Bernard’s Hospice: The Devil’s +Bridge: The Wood Cutter at Work: William Tell’s Chapel: His +story: Entrance to Lucerne: Our Hotel: Our visit to the mountain +top of Sonnenberg, etc.</p> +<p>Our stay at Lugano was only for a few minutes, it looks very +much like the town of Buxton, in Derbyshire, +“Peakland.” The houses are built of stone, the +streets are white and clean looking. It has a population of +about 7,000, and has a little trade in silks, leather, hats, and +some shoes. It is an important railway depot, as it stands +very near the frontier, dividing Italy and Switzerland. The +Roman Catholics have a very fine church, and, as an accessory, a +very extensive nunnery. The river Tessin runs near and the +town is protected by a very large dam, nearly a mile long. +We crossed this river as we left for Lucerne, over a fine granite +bridge of ten arches and something like seven hundred feet +long. As we left behind us this pretty little town, we were +soon recompensed by ever changing scenery that no pen can fully +describe.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p140.jpg"> +<img alt= +"St. Gothard Tunnel" +title= +"St. Gothard Tunnel" +src="images/p140.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>About +an hour brought us to another stopping place, Bellinzono. +From here we run side by side with the river Ticino, a very fine +river, and here began to ascend rapidly towards the Alps and the +great tunnel of St. Gothard, which is the largest in the world, +and by a long way the most costly. On our way we had a good +view of Monte San Salvatore, some three thousand feet high, and +beautifully covered with green vegetation right to the summit, +and its sides are dotted over with little white homesteads, they +look very pretty in the distance. We soon reached the +entrance to the great tunnel, which is a marvel of engineering +skill. It is built in corkscrew fashion. As we +proceeded into the darkness, in about ten minutes or less we came +into daylight for a few seconds and found we were about two +hundred feet above the little church we had passed a few minutes +before. Again we plunged into darkness, again we emerge +into daylight, only to find the church is now about six hundred +feet below us, and this is repeated, we see the church five times +and ultimately we reach the top, about seven thousand feet above +sea level. I think the station is called Andermatt. +Here we stopped for a little while, we bought some postcards with +views of the tunnel and of some of the scenery about here. +The cold <a name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +142</span>was intense, the air very rarified. Not far from +here is a Hospice where the dogs, the great St. Bernard dogs are +kept for the purpose of protecting the mountain pass. +Before the railway was made there was a road that was passable +with guides and mules, though, not unfrequently, storms would +overtake the party and they would get lost in the snow, or some +venturesome individual would go very near the edge of the +precipice, and, as the snow hung over considerably, with his +weight it would break loose and cause an avalanche of snow to +fall, which would take the whole party into the gulf below, +sometimes two or three thousand feet. At other times, +overtaken by terrible snowstorms, the party and guide would lose +their way, and so get buried in the drifts. On such nights +the monks of the hospice would go out with the dogs and listen +for cries of help. It is stated that scores have been saved +from being frozen to death by the great St. Bernard dogs. +After leaving Andermatt, we again pierced the mountain in this +great tunnel, now we began to descend. Coming into daylight +the sight that met our view was simply enchanting, we were right +on the top of the Alps and could see the great peaks and the +lesser mountains covered with eternal snow. Down we +descended to Wassen, here <a name="page143"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 143</span>we crossed a foaming cataract (by an +iron bridge) that had cut for itself a deep gorge in the side of +the mountain. A little further we crossed what has come to +be called “The Devil’s Bridge.” This is +in the midst of scenery of the wildest nature imagination can +conceive. Why it is called by such a name I don’t +know, only the awful desolation of the place, the awe inspiring +grandeur of the cliffs, the terrible roar of the river one +hundred feet below, and the shrieking of the wild wind, aptly +called by the natives, “Hutshelm,” or “hat +rogue.” Certainly it is an eerie, creepy sensation +that steals over you as you pass. On we glide, now through +narrow rocky defiles, then crossing chasms of great depths, as we +did so we leaned out of the windows and tried to guess the depth +of the yawning gulf beneath us. It made us dizzy to look +down. Proceeding, we came into the pine zone, and the black +forests of these lovely pine trees seemed to be stuck on their +mountain shelves as if staring at us and saying: “Why do +you come uninvited into this quiet sanctuary of nature, too deep, +too awful to be trodden by man?” Passing along we +discovered the woodcutters were clearing out the pine trees on +their mountain heights. To fell the trees the men seemed to +be chained or roped on the rocky precipices, <a +name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>and the +trees, when cut down, fall upon wires ingeniously hung from trees +or large posts fastened in the mountain side and reaching for a +distance of two or three miles. We saw the trunks of trees +sliding along and down these wires as fast as our train was +running. We were not long before we came to the Lake of +Uri, which may be said to be out of the mountain ranges, and just +by there we saw the Chapel, erected at a very early date, and +re-built in 1880, to the memory of Switzerland’s great +hero, William Tell.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p144.jpg"> +<img alt= +"William Tell’s Monument" +title= +"William Tell’s Monument" +src="images/p144.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>He was famous as a crossbowman, could shoot an arrow with +great precision. The Canton in which he was born and lived +was partly, if not entirely, under Austrian rule of that time, +and so imperious was Gesler, the Governor, that he demanded of +his people that when his hat was hung up in the market place of +the town, every one passing should doff his hat and bow to +it. William Tell refused to be so humiliated, and, as the +result of his refusal, he was arrested, and it was demanded of +him to shoot through an apple placed on the head of his only +child, a boy of ten, at a distance of fifty yards. This, +Tell accomplished without injury to his son; he, however, +declared in his own mind the next arrow should go into the heart +of Gesler, the tyrant. Tell, however, was not liberated, +but <a name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span>was +being taken a prisoner to the castle across this lake. +While crossing, a very sudden squall arose, threatening to upset +the boat which had Gesler and his prisoner Tell on board. +So severe was the storm that Tell was liberated from his chains +and asked to take an oar, it was known that he was a clever +oarsman. Tell saw his opportunity, he ran the boat on the +rocks, then leaping out he pushed the boat off into the lake +again. Gesler, however, managed to land, but he fell to the +arrow of Tell who had watched and waited for him for some +time. To be relieved of so imperious a Governor was to +constitute Tell an hero, hence the keeping his memory green by +building a chapel; he is also commemorated in song as well as in +story. Tell sings:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Ye crags and peaks, I’m with you once +again!<br /> +I hold to you the hands you first beheld,<br /> +To show they still are free. Methinks I hear<br /> +A spirit in your echoes answer me,<br /> +And bid your tenant welcome to his home<br /> +Again! Oh! sacred forms, how proud you look!<br /> +How high you lift your heads unto the sky;<br /> +How huge you are! how mighty and how free,<br /> +Ye are the things that tower, that shine, whose smile<br /> +Makes glad—whose frown is terrible—whose forms<br /> +<a name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>Robed or +unrobed, do all the impress wear<br /> +Of awe divine. Ye guards of liberty,<br /> +I’m with you once again! I call to you<br /> +With all my voice, I hold my hands to you<br /> +To show they still are free, I rush to you<br /> +As though I could embrace you! Scaling yon height<br /> +I saw an eagle near its brow<br /> +O’er the abyss: his proud expanded wings<br /> +Lay calm and motionless upon the air,<br /> +As if he floated there without their aid,<br /> +By the sole act of his unlorded will,<br /> +I bent my bow, yet kept he rounding still<br /> +His airy circle, as if in great delight.<br /> +The death that threatened him, he knew it not,<br /> +I could not shoot!—’Twas liberty,<br /> +I turned my bow aside and let him soar away.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Passing along we were on the side of the lovely lake of +Lucerne, and as it was after seven o’clock as we rounded +the hillside, and passed the rocky precipices of the hills we +could see the twinkling lights of the town some two miles +away. We steamed into a beautiful station, I think Lucerne +station, for beauty, for comfort, and arrangement, is the best we +have seen on our lengthy tour. <a name="page147"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 147</span>We alighted from the carriage on to +a lovely platform. Porters in attendance, our luggage +conveyed most expeditiously to the ’bus of the Hotel de +L’Europe, and soon we were bowling along to that very +delightful hotel. We found the place all that could be +desired by the most scrupulous. We had an excellent +bedroom, clean, dry and comfortable. Our luggage disposed +of, a wash and brush, and away we go to enjoy a splendid +table-de-hote. We did justice, I am sure, to the good +things so abundantly provided, for there was no stint, no lack of +variety, and served with great delicacy and tact. We were +not long after we had had dessert before we began to feel we +needed Nature’s sweet restorer, balmy sleep, and to bed we +went. Seeing the nets for the mosquitoes were hanging on, +we examined the room as far as we could and we came to the +conclusion the room was void of the troublesome creatures. +Sleep fell upon us sound and refreshing, when we awoke we found +we had been the victims of the evil creatures, for we were both +bitten in one or more places. Still, as the Yorkshire man +said, “It mud a bin war.” We arose refreshed, +and were anxious to see the Rigi mountain, and the still more +popular Pilatus. First we drew the blinds, stepped out on +to the balcony, we found a lovely garden under <a +name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span>our +window. It was beautifully laid out with flower beds and +gravel walks. We stood and gazed, seeming to doubt if it +was real, that we were really on earth. Could it be the +Garden of Eden? It is like an exquisite dream. The +scene seems to thrill like the sweetest chords of music. +The hotel is like a palace, such lovely roses, charming walks, +sculpture and vases on all sides, broad flights of stone steps +leading in and out of the grounds to the hotel, and around the +grounds massive trees with all manner of names. The Lake of +Lucerne, just peeping through the trees, and the mountain ranges +beyond, peak above peak covered with their snow white mantle made +the scene entrancing. After we had tired our eyes with +looking on the lovely landscape we went to enjoy our dejeuner of +fish, fowl, bacon, eggs and coffee. We left our hotel for +the first visit into the lovely town of Lucerne. It is not +a large town but well built and kept very clean. The +accommodation for getting about is good, by tram or ’bus or +cab, and not too expensive. We soon found ourselves in the +centre of an industry of silk and cotton works, making all kinds +of fancy articles of ladies’ wear and of the very finest +materials. Young girls sitting in the shop fronts, and, +indeed, in the doorway, plying their needles and crocheting +hooks. <a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +149</span>A large number are employed in this branch of +industry. Also the shops for toys were strangely +attractive, chiefly made of wood by the mountaineers, while +waiting for parties. The Swiss guide lives in the rocky +regions, has a cow or two, and two or three goats, and is +prepared to be used as a guide, or he fills in his time with +making boxes of all sizes and shapes, pipes, animals of various +kinds, indeed, almost anything you can imagine he can carve out +of wood, with his knife. Time is not very valuable, so he +works away until he has completed his work, which finds its way +into the shops and so, finally, gets to England, France or +Germany, as a toy for boys’ or girls’ +amusement. We soon found our way to the front of the Lake +of Lucerne. It is a charming lake, the colour is simply +indescribable, it is neither blue nor green, but a lovely tint +made up of both. As we looked across this beautiful water +we could see orchards and meadows sloping right down to the +water’s brink. Straight in front stood the mighty +mountain called the Rigi. As we stood awe struck with +delight to watch the vapours chased away by the coming sun and +the rugged face of the mountain laid bare in all its grandeur and +power, the sun shed its glow over rock and tree, and the stony +monarch seemed to salute you with a smile. <a +name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 150</span>On the +other side, that is at our right hand, old Pilatus, rugged and +bare, seemed to look down upon the lake with a frown, and between +the two giant mountains we could see the wondrous Alps, peak upon +peak in a wonderful variety, clad in their mantle of eternal +snow. And now above us and around us is the sunshine of, to +us, unusual brilliancy and a sky of faultless blue, not a single +cloud to be seen anywhere. The picture is one that will +never fade from our memories. It will enter into our life +to remain a constant joy to think of.</p> +<p>It was our intention to go up by rail to the top of the Rigi +or Pilatus or both, but other sights were so attractive that we +kept putting off that pleasure, as there seemed to be doubts if, +on the very summit, there might not be clouds to obscure the +view, as the height of the Rigi is six thousand feet, the height +of old Pilatus seven thousand feet, and there is an old saying +put in rhyme that</p> +<blockquote><p>“If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be +the day;<br /> +If his collar he puts on, you may venture on the way.<br /> +But if his sword he wields, at home you’d better +stay.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We ventured a visit up the Sonnenbergh. <a +name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>This is +done by train, or it would be more correct to say by carriage, +for the train consists of one carriage only. The engines +seem to have their boilers tilted up on ends. The railway +has a central rail which is cogged, and into this endless cog +fits a wheel underneath the engine. This is really the +driving wheel by which it slowly moves up the steep +gradient. We passed farms, orchards and plantations, up and +up. It is a curious sensation to find yourself steadily +moving up without any effort of your own, but still up we went +until we landed on a lovely plateau, with a charming hotel. +The view from this mountain height was beyond description. +We left the train and wandered into the woods and viewed our +surroundings. I had a camera with me so must get one or two +pictures. We were ready to return by the next train after +being up almost in the clouds for two hours. Our curious +old steamer soon put us in safety again by the side of the lake, +and from here we made our way to our hotel for some refreshments +and for a rest. Again leaving our good “hostel” +we visited the Glacier Gardens, these are now enclosed and +protected, and a small <a name="page152"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 152</span>fee is charged to see the natural +wonders of this lovely and picturesque scenery. At the very +entrance you see what is called “The Lion +Monument.” It is cut out of the solid rock.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p153.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Lion of Lucerne" +title= +"Lion of Lucerne" +src="images/p153.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +153</span>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">The glacier gardens: The Lion of Lucerne: The +glacier mill holes: The museum: The Bridge over the Reuss: The +Cathedral: Pilatus Mountain: Leaving Lucerne: Zurich: Lake of +Zurich: Zwingli, the reformer.</p> +<p>As we entered the Glacier Gardens our eyes were at once drawn +to this massive and very interesting and pathetic piece of +sculpture, “The Lion of Lucerne.” The smooth +face of this quarry is about fifty feet high, and it looks to be +about as wide, it is overshadowed by some very nice trees and +climbing plants. It is protected by a wooden rail, so you +could not, if you so wished, carve your name on the rocky +surface. In the very centre of this vast square is a +wounded and dying lion. The size in stone (for it is really +a part of the rock itself) is about twenty-eight feet in +length. It was hewn by the order and from a model by the +renowned Danish sculptor, Morwalsden, and was finished in the +year 1821. This famous masterpiece is dedicated to the +memory of the Swiss Guards of Louis XVI., <a +name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>who fell a +prey to the fury of the populace, as they retreated unarmed into +the French Tuileries. The sculptured figure is in a lying +position, and a broken arrow or spear is in its side. I +don’t remember ever being so impressed with an object in +stone as I was by this. It has an expression of the deepest +grief, and such as must have moved many to tears. Above the +figure you may read (as it is carved into the rock) the following +words: “To the fidelity and bravery of the +Swiss.” Beneath it the names of the twenty-six +officers who fell on that terrible day. Passing into the +gardens we were soon beside one of the glacier pots or +holes. These glacier pots or mill holes were discovered in +the year 1872, and it is asserted by geologists that they were +formed in far past ages. One of them, Albert Heim, says: +“I hereby testify both as a geologist and an eye witness of +the first unexpected discovery, as also of the subsequent careful +excavations of this wonderful phenomenon, that the hand of man +had nothing to do with the formation of these glacier mills and +polished surface of the glacier, nor with the erratic boulders +that lie about, or in those mill holes, but that we have here to +deal with a marvellous operation of <a name="page155"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 155</span>free organic nature, a relic of a +time when these countries were not inhabited by man.” +In those days almost the whole of Switzerland and, indeed, the +greatest part of the Northern Hemisphere was buried under immense +masses of ice, as can now be proved with the greatest certainty, +with here and there an oasis inhabited by animals long ago +extinct. Our attention was drawn to a large hole in the +solid rock almost round, and the sides quite smooth and about +eight or ten feet deep, and at the bottom a large boulder or +stone, also smooth. This hole is made by the whirling of +the stone round and round by the force of melting ice, causing +the waters to flow in strong descending streams. It is thus +these glacier mills are formed. In these gardens are quite +a number of these interesting specimens of the work of Nature in +the far past ages. The largest of all the mill stones we +saw, was one which weighs over five tons. This having in +some remote age, been whirled round and round like a toy. +There are also some large boulders carried by the glaciers from +the high Alps and left here. We also found some very fine +specimens of fossils and ferns that had been petrified into +stone. We left this most interesting <a +name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>part of the +gardens and mounted up a large number of steps to the imitation +of a lovely little Swiss Chalet, surrounded by tall trees which +seem to be growing out of the side of the rocky eminence on which +the Chalet is perched. It is called “An Alpine +Cottage.” The president of the Alpine Club describes +it thus: “This cottage, cleverly and accurately imitated, +gives us a true picture of these highland places of refuge. +Not many men, and still fewer women, are enabled to see such a +building in its airy district. Here it is, within reach of +every one in perfect imitation of the real thing, inside and +out. Even the inscription, here dedicated to the section +Pilatus is not wanting. Let us walk in! The hut +contains that homely furniture, those poor and scanty utensils, +the view of which, however, is so welcome to him who, in the +evening twilight, tired and weary, enters the hospitable and +friendly space, and makes use of them to take his frugal +meal. Let us go to the window! O wonder! what a +sight! We are, as if by magic, transported to God’s +beautiful world of the Alps. We stand far above the glacier +which descends majestically from the land of eternal snow. +It requires a long time and a close observation to <a +name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 157</span>realize +that this is an illusion. The foreground is a plastic +formation as in a panorama. All the characteristics of the +world of glaciers are wonderfully rendered with scientific +accuracy.” I have here given in his own words the +description of this most wonderful imitation of a Swiss Cottage +and its surroundings. The museum is one that would give +entertainment and information to an enquirer after knowledge for +some time, particularly in geology and the condition of our race +in these regions in the far back past. Instruments of +defence made of stone or flint or of bone. These have all +been discovered in the immediate neighbourhood and +preserved. A pick axe made of flint, chisels of flint +stone, sling-stones, lance-like instruments, earthenware vessels, +carbonized wheat, half of an apple petrified, hand hatchet of +bone, knife of bone, dagger of bone, dagger of horn, shovel of +stag’s horn, tumbler of horn, shuttle made of bear’s +teeth, sewing needle, very crude, made of bird’s +bone. In another part of the museum there are groups of the +animals of the Alps. The otter, the eagle, the horned owl, +the bearded vulture, a group of Alpine hares, a wild boar, a +group of bears, a pole cat, the common ibex, foxes, Alpine +jackdaw, wild cats, sea <a name="page158"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 158</span>swallow, the chamois, the St. +Bernard dog, and many other interesting relics of past ages, +preserved for the pleasure and benefit of the present +generation. A fine collection of the mountain ferns are to +be seen in their richness and beauty, with notices of the places +in the Alps where they may be found. There is the ice +grotto, which we did not descend to see, but we were greatly +pleased with our visit to this very interesting place. +Before leaving the gardens I took a snap-shot of my dear little +wife on the bridge, crossing from the glacier gardens to the +Alpine Chalet. We visited several other places of interest +in the town, one, particularly, attracted our attention. It +is a very old bridge over the river Reuss. It has stood +against “the iron tooth of time which devours men and their +works together,” for about four hundred years. +Anything more quaint I think I never saw. It is covered in +and is in length about one hundred yards. In the triangular +spaces formed by the beams that go to support the roof, pictures +have been painted, I should think for the amusement of passers +over, as they are not, as a whole, very edifying. I should +say, perhaps, two hundred paintings are to be found on the +bridge. There are some that may claim <a +name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 159</span>some merit; +these are representations of the various battles and victories by +the Swiss armies. About the centre of the bridge is a +curiosity shop or bazaar, containing toys, bronzes, etc. +Hastening across, for time began to be valuable, as we had seen +so little of this wonderful city, and our time for leaving grew +near, we needed to use the time left us wisely and well. +The old cathedral must be visited. We had, however, seen so +many, it hardly seemed likely this one would be at all +interesting, but we determined to pay it a visit; and, although +there is much about it that is similar to others we had seen, +still there is a difference. On the outside and near the +entrance is a large metal plaque in bronze, with a large cross on +which is an image of the suffering Saviour, and a good number of +names of persons deceased, who had left the instructions for the +erection of the tablet. Inside, the usual array of bowls of +holy water, confessional boxes, candles burning on the +altar. There is also some very fine sculpture in marble, +also some very fine pictures by the old masters. Of course +it is Roman Catholic, consequently the priest is in evidence +everywhere. We left the church with feelings that a great +deal of the religion of the <a name="page160"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 160</span>Roman Catholics, as we have seen it +on the continent, is a soulless religion. It has a +framework but no soul. We really hoped, before leaving +Lucerne, to have gone up the Pilatus mountain, as from there we +understand, can be had a splendid view of the Bernese hills, the +highest of which is the Tomlishorn, about seven thousand +feet. It used to be most difficult to climb the Pilatus, +but now it is easy and safe. It used to be associated with +legends of hobgoblins, fairies, dragons, etc. It is said to +get its name from Pontius Pilate, who crucified the Christ, after +which he was so smitten with remorse that he fled the Judean +country and found his way to Switzerland, finding here in this +awe inspiring mountain, a fit place to close his wretched career, +and in a tiny lake near on the summit, he ended his miserable +life. There is still a superstition abroad that his spirit, +in its restlessness, visits this mountain periodically, and may +be seen washing its hands as we read “And when Pilate saw +that he could prevail nothing, but that rather a tumult was made, +he took water, and washed his hands before the multitude, saying, +I am innocent of the blood of this just person; see ye to +it.” Matthew, chapter 27, verse 24. It may, <a +name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 161</span>however, be +only imaginary, but superstition dies hard in such lonely +localities. As we could not visit its summit this time, we +must content ourselves with viewing it in the distance. And +now our time in this lovely city closes. Our stay has been +of the pleasantest; the manager of our hotel (The Hotel de +L’Europe) has been to us the very essence of kindness; even +the mosquitoes were fairly generous, only on one or two occasions +have they troubled us. So we packed up, paid our bills and +left, very reluctantly. It was on a very lovely morning we +bade adieu to the most pleasant and enjoyable scenery of the +lakes and mountains around the pretty town of Lucerne. +Having boarded the train our first impulse was to get snugly into +a corner and live over again the past few days, but the scenery +around us was of such a character, we could not rest in +forgetfulness of things passing. We could see in the +distance the great Jura mountains. Then near to us homely, +lovely scenery; there a little stone farm and farmyard, a little +stream flowing by, the farmer’s maid on an iron bridge +spanning the stream, giving the whole surroundings a picture of +rusticity. A little further and we see an old mill, with +its massive wheel <a name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +162</span>in motion and the miller’s man in dusty garments, +standing with his arms akimbo, giving orders for the unloading of +a heavily laden mule wagon; around us is forest and field in +pleasing variety. We are not very long before we near the +lake of Zurich, which is very extensive, and like all the Swiss +lakes, it is very beautiful. Then to Zurich. I was +greatly surprised at the importance and the accommodation at and +about the railway station. I think it was one of the best +we had seen, and for attractiveness I should say the +finest. The town itself is of importance, having a +population of over one hundred and twenty thousand people. +From the railway the city shows itself well, as a part of it is +built on the side of a rocky eminence, with the River Limmet +running at the foot. Indeed, this river divides the town, +the upper and lower Zurich. There are six bridges (and they +know how to make useful and beautiful bridges on the +continent). Three are used for carriages, wagons, etc., and +the other three only for foot passengers. The streets in +Zurich are very narrow, crooked and dirty. On the hill +stands conspicuously, a grand Cathedral, the Grosse Minster; of +course, it is a Roman Cathedral, but it is, I <a +name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>learn, very +rich in sculpture and pictures, although, I fear, very poor in +that which should make any church rich—the Divine +in-dwelling. There is a very fine Post Office, and all the +modern appliances and conveniences for the acceleration of +information. It is a very ancient town, indeed, it was, as +history tells us, at one time a Roman city. Zwingli, the +great Swiss reformer, played an important part in the history of +Zurich. It was then the centre of the reformation in +Switzerland, and Zwingli was leader. He was a contemporary +with Martin Luther. He had studied at Basle and Bern, and +was made parish priest in 1506. He was a great student of +Holy Scripture; it is said he copied the epistles of St. Paul in +Greek and committed them to memory wholly. He accompanied +the Pope’s army against France as a Chaplain, and was +granted a pension by the Pope for his sympathetic attention to +the wounded and the dying. His knowledge of the Bible led +him to examine closely into the teaching of the Romish Church and +he, led doubtless by the good Spirit of God, discovered many +things his conscience could not approve amongst them—the +sale of indulgences. He wrote a work of great importance +condemning the feasts of the <a name="page164"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 164</span>Church, also against the worship of +images, the mass, the confessional, and other abuses he conceived +existed. In 1524 he married a lady of standing and +importance, by this act he broke away from the Romish Church and +incurred the Pope’s displeasure. Soon after this he +joined the German Reformers; at that time Martin Luther was +leader. Zwingli’s Bible was to him everything, he +found in it complete and unbroken rest to his soul. To him +it was the one only ground of appeal, also the test of faith and +practice. On minor points such as baptism and sacraments, +Luther and he did not see eye to eye; but on the main points of +Christian theology and general church discipline they were in +agreement. He fought and fell in a war between Zurich +Canton and the Roman Catholic Cantons of Switzerland, in the year +1531. His great battle cry was “my countrymen, trust +in God.” Our stay at Zurich was only short, we soon +found ourselves en route for Basle.</p> +<h2><a name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +165</span>CHAPTER XV.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">From Zurich to Basle: Arrival in Basle: Our +Hotel: Our visit to the Rhine Bridge: “The Watch on the +Rhine”: The Market: The Cathedral and its sculpture, etc.: +Erasmus: The Museum: The Zoological gardens: Leaving Basle: +Arrival at Belfort: Belfort besieged.</p> +<p>As we journeyed from Zurich, we felt we were leaving behind us +sights we might never see again. A certain poet’s +words came to my memory:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Beautiful world,<br /> +Though bigots condemn thee:<br /> +My tongue finds no words<br /> +For the graces that gem thee!<br /> +Beaming with sunlight,<br /> +Beautiful ever,<br /> +Streaming with gay delight,<br /> +Full as a river.<br /> +Bright world! Brave world!<br /> +Let cavaliers blame thee,<br /> +I bless thee and bend<br /> +To the God that did frame thee.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Between Zurich and Basle we contrived to get a little relief +from the excitement of new scenes. We had really been +surfeited <a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +166</span>almost with the richness and beauty of our surroundings +for so long a time that it was a relief to allow the train to +speed on, and to get into a corner and contemplate and +rest. We arrived at Basle in the afternoon, and found it a +great railway centre, and indeed, a very important town, both for +commercial men and for pleasure seekers. It is a great +centre for cyclists, as there are at least forty castles to be +seen within a radius of fifty miles. You can be in Germany +in about twenty minutes. From the north, east and west, a +number of the most important lines of central Europe are focussed +here, and swelling to a mighty mass, branch off again in every +direction to the interior of Switzerland. Thus inner +Switzerland is laid open to the world’s traffic and +pleasure. The surroundings of the city are very pretty, and +we saw it when it was most charming, i.e., when the autumn tints +are seen. Here we see field and forest around this grand +old city in all the glory of the season’s +attractions. We were advised by the manager of our hotel in +Lucerne, to go to the Hotel Victoria in Basle, so we secured the +usual fakeno to carry our luggage across, for it is only about +two hundred yards from the station. We were, <a +name="page167"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 167</span>however, +disappointed in the hotel and its management. They were +neither obliging nor scrupulously true or honest, the very worst +treatment we met with in all our travels.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p166.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Rhine Bridge, Basle" +title= +"The Rhine Bridge, Basle" +src="images/p166.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>However, our stay was short, so we determined to make the best +of it, the bedroom was good; and, although close by the station, +we slept well. We decided to see the city the day +following; and going out, we soon found it to be a great centre +of commerce. It has a population of about one hundred and +thirty thousand inhabitants. Great silk factories rear +their heads in the centre of this great city. There are +also manufacturies of chemicals, tobacco, machinery, etc.; also +some very large breweries. It is said to be the wealthiest +town in Europe, measured by its population. It has plenty +of open-air spaces, as parks, gardens and monuments; cool avenues +and well trimmed gardens are plentiful in the suburbs. We +went to see the wonderful Rhine which flows through Basle, and we +stood on that wonderfully constructed bridge of which the poet +writes:</p> +<blockquote><p>“A voice resounds like thunder peal<br /> +Mid dashing waves and clang of steel:<br /> +The Rhine, the Rhine, the German Rhine!<br /> +<a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 168</span>Who +guards to-day my stream divine?</p> +<p>Dear fatherland, no danger thine,<br /> +Firm stand thy sons to watch the Rhine!<br /> +They stand a hundred thousand strong,<br /> +Quick to revenge their country’s wrong;<br /> +With filial love their bosoms swell,<br /> +They’ll guard the sacred land, mark well.</p> +<p>While flows one drop of German blood,<br /> +A sword remains to guard thy flood.<br /> +While rifle rests in patriot’s hand,<br /> +No foe shall tread thy sacred strand!</p> +<p>Our oath resounds, the river flows,<br /> +In golden light our banner glows,<br /> +Our hearts will guard thy stream divine;<br /> +The Rhine, the Rhine, the glorious Rhine!”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>For some time we stood and watched the rolling river flow by +until tired of watching, we left after I had taken a snap-shot, +and retracing our steps to the market, a place of peculiar +interest, as everything seems different from our English +ways. The stalls are set out differently, and their fruits, +vegetables, pots, flowers and shoes, indeed almost everything you +can need, we saw in the great space of the market here in +Basle. <a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +169</span>The curious customs, dresses, language and money were +all strange; and we thought the dress of the country folk was +very quaint and queer. We spent sometime in looking over +this great place, so many things offer attractions; without +however, making any purchases save a few post-cards and a little +fruit for our immediate use. We strolled on to the +principal streets to note some of the very fine buildings that +adorn the city. The Post Office is an imposing building, I +should say it was partly ancient and partly modern. It is a +Gothic building and seems to be well suited for, and capable of +dealing with the work it has to do. The House of +Parliament, or shall I say Government House, in the great market +square, to look at it, it seems to rise terrace-like, up to the +Martin’s Grasse; in the centre of each terrace is a court, +round which the halls and the various offices are grouped. +There is a fine statue close by the stairs representing a Roman +pro-Consul, who had to do with the founding of the city. Of +course, we must see the Cathedral. In all the continental +cities there is a Duomo or Cathedral, and many of them are well +worth a visit. The Cathedral of Basle stands on an +elevation <a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +170</span>and consequently shows itself well. It has two +steeples, not very lofty but very pretty. It dates from the +year 1010, but has been restored and very nearly re-built, as +there was a great fire which destroyed a large part of it in the +year 1185. Again, in the year 1356, there was an +earthquake, so serious that the vault of the central nave fell +in, and the upper portion of the choir was thrown into the +Rhine. Over the entrance is a fine stone gallery, and above +this a very large window, with Madonna and Child in fine +colours. There are several fine pieces of statuary +inside. The Emperor Henry II. and his Consort Kunigundi, in +colossal figures. To the left of one of the steeples is St. +George in the act of killing the dragon. To the right, or +St. Martin’s steeple, is a figure of St. Martin sharing his +cloak with a poor beggar. On the side of the nave are some +very fine works of art in sculpture, such as four life-size +figures of the “Four Evangelists”; there is St. Peter +and St. Paul; “The Seven Wise and Seven Foolish +Virgins”; “Christ, as Judge of the World”; +“John the Baptist and John the Evangelist.” +Above these are seen angels blowing their trumpets; the dead +arising from their graves and preparing <a +name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 171</span>for +judgment; over the doorway inside, “The Wheel of +Fortune.” There is an absence of the confessional, +the Holy Water and other symbols of the weakness of the faith of +the Roman Catholics. We were greatly interested with our +visit to this, one more of the Continental Cathedrals, and +especially so as one of the men who played some part in the great +reformation lies buried here, I refer to Erasmus. He was a +learned divine of the fourteenth century. He published some +very fine pastorals and works of theology, that even now are +considered worthy of reading. It does not seem that he ever +joined Martin Luther in his crusade against the Pope and Popery +in general, but he became a staunch protestant. It is said +that King Henry VIII. offered him a church in Oxford. He +travelled much, visiting Rome, Venice, England and Paris. +He ended his days here in Basle, and in the sacred precincts of +the Cathedral his dust reposes. The “blue +house” is an attractive building; it was the residence of +the Emperor and Empress of Austria during the war of liberation, +at the beginning of the nineteenth century. It has a fine +front and commands a full view of the river Rhine. The +museum is one of the <a name="page172"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 172</span>quaintest and strangest I have ever +seen. It is said to be the most interesting museum in +Switzerland. I cannot pretend to tabulate all there is to +be seen here, only indicate some of the most curious: “The +dance of death,” “Tankards,” +“Bowls,” “Carved Altars of curious +designs,” but very costly; the gold and silver plate +belonging to the Cathedral, many trophies taken in war and +weapons also. There are ancient household implements; also +several important heirlooms of Erasmus; some fine figures of +Samson and Delilah are to be seen at the entrance.</p> +<p>“The Strassburg Monument” in the Elizabeth +Gardens, close to the Central Railway Station, is a fine +sculpture in white marble (I took a snap-shot) by Bartholdi, and +was presented to the city by Baron Herve de Gringer, in +commemoration of the assistance given by the Swiss in 1870, to +the citizens of Strassburg when sorely pressed by the +enemy. The Zoological Gardens of Basle are very extensive, +and so far as I know, are the only gardens of this description in +Switzerland. The way to it is full of beauty and +interest. There is also another place some people might +think important, we did not—that is the Crematorium. +Many other places of interest in and around this fine old <a +name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 173</span>city, we +had not time to visit, our time being limited. We could not +help being struck with the fact that the ancient landmarks of +this old world city are fast disappearing, and old buildings +being pulled down and new palatial ones being erected on all +hands. The crumbling walls of the middle ages are fallen; +the moats are all filled in; narrow streets and alleys are being +swept away in the onward march of time; and the broad squares and +commodious dwelling houses are being put up. The beauty +after all, is the rolling river Rhine. We closed our +account at the hotel, wrote up our journals and prepared to leave +this interesting old city. We left our hotel early in the +morning, and were soon seated in a train for Belfort, in +France. We had to cross the Rhine over a fine railway +bridge, and as we crossed it we had a good view of the river as +it rolled past. It comes through Alsace and Lorraine, the +territory ceded by France to Germany after the great victory +achieved by the latter, in the year 1870. The scenery, +since leaving Switzerland, is less rugged and mountainous, but +the foliage, in its autumn colours, is very pretty. A +couple of hours brought us to the town of Belfort. It has +now <a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 174</span>a +population of about thirty thousand. We could see first of +all, it was well fortified. The castle has a fine +appearance in the distance, as it stands on a rocky eminence; +something like our castle here in Nottingham. There is a +fine old parish church (the religious element is well represented +wherever we find ourselves). It is a manufacturing centre, +especially for mats, but also wax tapers. There are several +large breweries. This town was surrounded by the Germans in +the great Franco-German war of 1870. But month after month +it bravely, resolutely withstood all their attempts at capture; +and although both food and ammunition became scanty, they still +held on, until by sheer force of lack of provisions, they +capitulated in February, 1871, to the great satisfaction of the +Germans, and to the chagrin of the proud French. The +Germans, in their generosity, and as a recognition of the bravery +of the French soldiers, allowed them to march out of the town +with full military honours. It is one of the towns that +closely border Alsace and Lorraine of the Haut Rhin that was left +to the French at the annexation in February, 1871.</p> +<h2><a name="page175"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +175</span>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">At Marseilles: Our Hotel; Meeting Mr. and Mrs. +Green and Mrs. Martin: The sights of the City: The Cathedral, +etc.: En route for Mentone: Toulon: Passing Nice: Cannes: Arrival +at Mentone: Our Hotel: Meeting Mr. and Miss Brown: The scenery, +etc.: Visit to Monte Carlo.</p> +<p>Our visit to Marseilles was made in the earlier part of the +year, also to the Riviera. On reaching Marseilles after a +long and tedious journey, we proceeded to the “Grand Hotel +du Louvre et Paix,” that we had previously arranged should +be our stopping place, during our stay in the city. The +hotel ’bus was at the station and we were soon safely +inside and our baggage on the top; through some rambling streets +we soon found ourselves at an hotel of no mean pretensions. +The front is facing a very fine street, and is of massive +proportions. Inside is even better than the outside. +Everything up-to-date; lovely chandeliers with electric light; +mirrors, carpets of the richest and best quality; writing rooms, +coffee rooms, dining rooms and several hundreds of bed +rooms. We just looked round and got the <a +name="page176"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 176</span>number of +our bed room and were about to step into the lift, which had just +descended, when to our surprise we met face to face, a dear old +friend of ours, Mrs. Martin, of Glasgow, and she was apparently +as much surprised to see us. We hurried through our toilet +and went down stairs to learn why she was here alone. She +told us her father, G. Green, Esq. (a very dear and almost +life-long friend of ours) was returning from a visit to America +and the West Indies, and she expected him and Mrs. Green arriving +at Marseilles at once; indeed, she was just going down to the +docks to see if the boat was in. In the meantime we had +lunch, which just then was very necessary and most +acceptable. We wanted to see a bit of the city, as our time +was limited, and we could ill afford to lose any of it. We +found the shops fairly good, but prices very high for anything +that was worth having. We omitted spending at present, so +went back to our hotel where we met Mr. and Mrs. Green to our +great surprise and pleasure. After the usual salutations, +etc., we wanted to know each other’s programme, to see if +we could not have at least a few days together. We had +arranged to go on to Mentone, and had booked hotel beforehand; +they had decided, with Mrs. Martin, to go to Cannes the same <a +name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>day, so we +arranged to return from Mentone earlier than we had thought, and +visit Cannes; and they arranged to stay at Cannes till we +arrived, and have at least two days with us. So they left +us for Cannes after having some refreshments. We further +explored the city; the population now numbers nearly half a +million, it is the next largest city in France save Paris. +There is a grand Triumphal Arch not far from the railway termini, +erected to commemorate the French campaign in Spain. The +docks are most extensive, as they cover an area of about one +hundred and seventy acres, and they must have cost many millions +of pounds sterling. On the south side of the city may be +seen, a long distance off, “The Notre Dame de la +Garde.” It stands on a bare rock hill. To reach +it you pass through an enclosure protected by iron railings, you +take tickets and get into an elevator which quickly raises you +over three hundred feet. From here, however, you have to +reach this curious old Cathedral by many steps. When you +have just gained the summit, there is a very fine view of the +city at your feet, and of the Mediterranean Sea, with the +graceful curves of the coast line lending enchantment to the +view. The island of Monte Cristo is also well in sight, +reminding you of Dumas’ novel. It is said <a +name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 178</span>that, on +the spot where this church stands, the Druids celebrated their +crafts and mysteries. Inside there are some very fine +columns of blue marble from the Alps. The ceilings and +walls are hung with pious offerings, commemorating strange +deliverances at sea. There is an image of the Virgin in the +shape of a flying mermaid, appearing to a ship in a storm. +The Cornish Road or Chemin de Centure, is a great attraction, as +it runs along the coast for a long distance, indeed, it is said +to run along the coast to Naples, following the sea all the way; +curving and jutting out, just as the sea has apparently found the +bays and the promontories. The principal streets of +Marseilles are very broad, and there is some lovely +architecture. I give a picture, as I took the snap-shot of +what stands at the junction of three or four of their main +streets. The city is well surrounded by hills, covered with +vineyards and oliveyards; and the country round, for some +distance, is specked with white country houses. Our stay is +of short duration, so good-bye to the port, to the shops, to the +Cathedral. Our hotel bill is to be settled, and, this done, +the great lumbering ’bus is awaiting us. We say adieu +to our French waiters, boots and Concierge, and are soon at the +railway <a name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +179</span>station and in the train for Mentone. Leaving +Marseilles we noticed the scenery began to be rugged and rocky, +for some distance. The sea, however, was a great +attraction, the blue Mediterranean is I think always pleasing to +look at; and we could feel the pure bracing air as it came up +from the sea. About two hours brought us to an important +station called Toulon. This is said to be the Plymouth of +France. The dockyard and fleet of Toulon were destroyed by +a British force under Sir Sidney Smith, detached from the fleet +of Lord Hood, in November, 1793. There is a wonderful +history attached to this city, which I have neither the time nor +the disposition to enter upon. Our train was delayed here, +so I dismounted to get some oranges, when, to my dismay, the +train moved on and left me hatless on an open platform. +However, I found it was only to move to the tank to take +water. In ten minutes’ time it returned, so set at +rest my little wife’s troubles and my own. We soon +left behind us this apparently prosperous and busy town, and were +again surrounded by hills and the sea. Landscapes of bays +and promontories, rocks and ravines. To my mind I have seen +nothing in all my travels (and I have been over four continents) +to equal the stretch of coast and country <a +name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 180</span>from +Marseilles to Mentone. It is beyond all question the +loveliest part of the fair land of France. On all sides as +the train steams along it is pretty, gay and captivating, as the +sunny shores are washed by the rolling sea, and an azure sky is +overhead; and beyond, in the background, you can occasionally see +lines of lofty hills crowned with eternal snow. As we +passed the various stations, as Nice, the scenery becomes richer +and more beautiful. Lovely avenues bordered with flowers, +winding through the plain; and shady footpaths meandering among +fields of asphodel and lavender. As we passed St. Raphael +Station we noticed a very peculiar formation of the +sea-shore. On we sped through the most beautiful scenery, +palm trees began to seem plentiful; the first I saw looked so +lovely I took my camera and got a snap-shot; but as we proceeded +they became quite common. At Nice, the races were just +over, and we saw numerous horses and horsemen leaving the race +course. We had passed Cannes, and after which, Monte Carlo, +and soon reached our destination where we remained for a few days +(Mentone). We had selected, as was our custom, a hotel +beforehand, this time it was “Hotel de +Mentone.” So on the arrival of our train in the +station we looked <a name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +181</span>out for the hotel omnibus. We were surrounded by +porters to carry our baggage, and almost a quarrel ensued which +should have the job. However, we were conducted to the +’bus and very quickly driven to the hotel named. We +found it all we could wish, indeed, the most comfortable and best +managed we had found in all our travels. The manager, M. C. +Husson, is the very acme of kindness and attention, our wants +seemed to be anticipated and met most expeditiously. Our +bedroom, large and airy, facing and within one hundred yards of +the blue Mediterranean; the garden full of the most lovely palm +trees. My little wife said: “this is like +paradise.” The climate of this lovely town is very +mild, and fogs, they tell us, are unknown. It is surrounded +by an amphitheatre of mountains, consequently no north or east +winds affect them; the hills intervening between these Alpine +Mountains and the town and the sea, are covered with gardens of +the orange tree (in full fruitage when we saw them January 18th); +also the lemon and olive tree. Mentone is a favourite +winter resort for English visitors.</p> +<p>In our hotel we found some interesting people, some of them +from England; and those who could speak English were to us, more +than usually interesting. We seemed <a +name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 182</span>to be +specially drawn toward a lady and gentleman from +Southend-on-Sea—a Mr. Brown and Miss Brown, his +daughter. She made herself particularly useful and nice to +my little wife. We were strangers, and all about us a +strange tongue was spoken and new customs in vogue. Miss +Brown most kindly offered her aid at any time and on any point +that was desired. This was most gratefully accepted, and in +a few days we were fast friends. A correspondence has been +kept up since we left, so that in all likelihood the friendship +formed in Mentone will be continuous and pleasant. We took +our walks each morning along the fine promenade in the clear +fresh sunshine and bracing sea breeze, so we could feel we were +gaining strength and getting a real good bracing up. We +took lunch, more than once, at a sweet little Swiss restaurant, +everything was scrupulously clean and sweet. We visited the +Park Gardens, where the band was every day discoursing sweet +music. These gardens are filled on two sides with orange +trees; and as we passed them the fruit was just lovely, ripe and +ready for plucking. The borders and beds were full of the +most beautiful flowers in full bloom. I got two or three +snapshots of this pretty place and surroundings.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p182.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Miss Brown at Mentone" +title= +"Miss Brown at Mentone" +src="images/p182.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We visited the <a name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +183</span>cemetery on the hillside. It is difficult to +reach, as there are so many steps, but it is well worth a +visit. Here are laid to rest the dust of many +generations. We found marble monuments in memory of several +English residents, who had died in Mentone and were buried +here. The graves or mausoleums are carefully kept. +Flowers bloom most luxuriantly, and intertwine themselves in and +around the sculpture on all sides. Some graves have, built +over them, a small tent or room, which is adorned with pictures +and filled with flowers. Here the relations of the deceased +come, and seem to commune with the departed; at any rate they +find some kind of solace in spending a little time near the +sacred dust of loved ones. We visited the Market Place, and +on market day too, to see the costers from the country in dresses +quaint and queer, with their donkeys and carts of the rudest +make. One would really have liked to have laughed at their +simplicity. The fruit, flowers and vegetables were of a +very fine quality; nothing so large in England. New +potatoes in January, and new green peas, tomatoes; indeed, +everything that our gardens will produce in June, they get here +in January. Monte Carlo is only a few miles from Mentone, +and there is a tram running; so we determined to pay a visit to +<a name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 184</span>this +interesting place before we left the Riviera. A lovely day +found us on the tram en route for Monte Carlo. Up the +hillsides our tram went, and round some curves that to us seemed +dangerous, across some deep ravines, ascending, then descending, +for the road is along the rocky mountain side. In about +forty minutes we reached this place of notoriety. It is +certainly one of the loveliest places under the sun. +Someone has said “it is my ideal, in outward appearance, of +what heaven will be.” Words are too poor to paint the +beauties of Monte Carlo. Some of the places in my native +county, Derbyshire, such as “Lovers’ Leap,” +“Monsale Dale,” “High Tor,” and others, +but on a small and insignificant scale, remind me of the Riviera, +only the sea and climate is lacking.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p184.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Casino, Monte Carlo" +title= +"The Casino, Monte Carlo" +src="images/p184.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +185</span>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">Monte Carlo: Its Casino and gardens: Leave +taking at Mentone of Mr. and Miss Brown: Arrival at Cannes: +Meeting Mr. and Mrs. Green: Cannes, its scenery, etc.: Visit to +Grasse: Journey to Paris: London: Home, Sweet Home.</p> +<p>It seems as if Nature had lavished her richest treasures on +Monte Carlo. Its terraces covered with palms; its orange +groves and oliveyards; its massive hotels of marble; its azure +sky and ever blue Mediterranean sparkling at its foot. Then +there is the Casino, “the gambling hell,” as it has +been called. A building upon which no money or care has +been spared to make it an attraction, and it has undoubtedly been +a success, for thousands throng its rooms daily. We had no +difficulty in getting inside. I presented my card to an +official in braided coat, who, when he saw it, and had given a +look at us, I presume, thought it would be safe to give us +admission, and took us to a ticket box where the usual entrance +ticket was granted, and we were admitted inside. Oh! what a +scene! Tables covered with <a name="page186"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 186</span>green baize and marked with figures; +the gamblers or players crowded round every table, staking mostly +five franc pieces; sometimes one five franc piece and sometimes +five. Two men representing the bank with hooks or rakes, +drew in the cash, as the Roulette declared for the bank; the +winners raking their gains in as the tale of the Roulette was in +their favour. The faces of the players were a study and +tempted one to moralize and try to predict the effect of this +sort of thing on the character of the gamblers. It is an +awful thing to be caught in the clutches of a gambling +saloon—this one in particular. There are many tables, +all full; and crowds round waiting for an opportunity. We +went through the vast building, it is richly carpeted and the +upholstering is of the best; settees, mirrors, chandeliers, etc., +all give to it an appearance of wealth. Monte Carlo is in +the territory of Monaco, which is the smallest independent state +in Europe at least. It only covers about eight square +miles. It formerly included Mentone and Roccabruna, but +these have been ceded to France for four million francs. +The Palace of the Prince is on the promontory or rock just below +the Casino. <a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +187</span>Surrounding it are some lovely gardens, and the +appearance of some protection in the shape of cannon, etc.; +these, however, would be useless if they were ever needed. +It is said that his chief revenue is from the Casino, which pays +him about two hundred thousand pounds per annum. The +population under the Prince is now about ten thousand. I +took a snap-shot or two, and we strolled about until weary, then +we found our way to the tram and in about an hour were in our +hotel enjoying table-de-hote. Our time for leaving Mentone +had arrived, and again we packed, at least, my little wife +did. We said good-bye, with reluctance, to a place that had +given us so much pleasure; also to our new found +friends—specially Miss Brown—my dear wife had grown +quite fond of her. I think it was because she showed such +kindness to us when we arrived, also she spoke English; and that, +in itself, attracts an Englishman when away from home. The +leave taking between them was quite affectionate and, doubtless, +correspondence will follow. We left Mentone in the lovely +sunshine, and from under the lovely palm trees, and were soon +passing Monaco, Monte Carlo and Nice. We <a +name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 188</span>reached +Cannes all safe and sound. A lovely motor carriage was at +our disposal for the “Hotel de la Plage.” We +were met by our old friend—George Green, Esq., and his good +wife and daughter, Mrs. Martin, who also had a friend with her +from Glasgow, Mrs. Giles. They gave us a hearty welcome to +our hotel, second to none on the continent, I think, and lovely +for situation, close by the sea; and surrounded with the most +lovely semi-tropical plants, as the photo or snap-shot +shows. We enjoyed the two or three days immensely with our +friends in this lovely spot; for Cannes is lovely. The Bay +of Cannes surpasses, it is said, the Bay of Naples for +beauty. “Then there is the Cape of Antibes, with its +gardens of dreamland and fairies!” The Estrel, with +its profound solitude, and with its masses of red porphyry, like +buildings erected by the Titians; with its arid soil covered with +crooked pines, raising their branches towards the pure azure +sky. Cannes is said to be a vast garden, where the flowers +are scattered in profusion by Nature with a lavish and never +wearying hand. There is also the orange, the lemon, the +oleander, the pepper plant, and the palm tree; all <a +name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span>growing +side by side with the olive, the oak, and the stone pine. +Of Cannes, it is said: “She is the daughter of the Sirens, +and sprang into existence one morning under the glowing kisses of +the sun.” It has had a chequered history, but it is +now merged into the liberty of a gay and prosperous town of +thirty-five thousand inhabitants.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p188.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Mr. and Mrs. Green, Mrs. Martin, Mrs. Wardle and Mrs. Giles at +Cannes" +title= +"Mr. and Mrs. Green, Mrs. Martin, Mrs. Wardle and Mrs. Giles at +Cannes" +src="images/p188.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Over twenty thousand visitors come to Cannes for the winter to +escape the northern fogs and frosts. Mr. Green and I +strolled the Promenade and talked over olden times. The +ladies enjoyed their tete-a-tete and their shopping expeditions; +so the days slipped quickly away and we must lose our friends, +who go to Marseilles, then by sea to Glasgow. So again we +say good-bye, expecting, however, to meet again soon in +London. They leave early for Marseilles in order to catch +their steamer. We visited Grasse the day after they left +us. This is about twenty miles from Cannes by rail, and it +lies up in the mountains; it is about one thousand feet above the +sea level, yet it is surrounded by the Alps, at least east and +north. The town has a population about fifteen thousand, +and is built on the slope of a hill. It is steep climbing +up from the <a name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +190</span>station. Facing the town is a lovely valley or +plain, where they cultivate flowers. The town is largely +supported by the manufacturing of scent. There are several +factories; one factory sends away over eleven million francs +worth of scents yearly. It is a town of great +interest. It has a fine old Cathedral, also some fairly +good shops. The streets being on the hillside are not easy +to walk along. Our stay was only for a few hours, but long +enough to satisfy us; the place was health-giving and very +interesting. On arriving at our hotel in Cannes we were +tired; so after the usual table-de-hote and rest, we went to bed +early, as the following morning we were to pack up and go. +After the usual tips, bill settling, etc., we left Cannes and its +many attractions, and as we rounded the bay we could see the town +for miles with its white hotels, etc., amidst the luxuriant palm +trees. We soon lost sight of the town and were spinning +over deep ravines with rugged sides; there with jutting spurs of +rock; here the sea pushing up in inlets and creeks, sparkling in +the rays of the southern sun. Our train hurried us away +from scenes of such perfect loveliness, <a +name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 191</span>past +Toulon, and about 7.30 we reached Marseilles. Here we met +again Mrs. Martin and her friend Mrs. Giles. We only stayed +here about half-an-hour, but we began to feel the change in the +atmosphere, and our rugs were brought into use, as we were +travelling all night. About midnight we reached Lyons, and +on looking out we found the snow was falling thick and +fast. Oh! what a change in a few hundred miles! The +sunny south was now behind us, and again we must face the biting +frost and snow of winter.</p> +<p>We reached Paris about 11 a.m., and soon found our way to +“Hotel du Nord.” We spent a night at the +“Magenta Hotel,” where we found friends in Dr. +Mochwyn Hughes and his sister, who were going into +Switzerland. We decided to “do Paris,” as they +say, in a motor. So we engaged one and were quickly through +some of the busy streets of this wonderful city. We visited +Notre Dame, of course, and went inside. There was a funeral +cortege, and the mourners sitting by the bier; while the priests, +with their incantations, mummeries and ceremonies, and +genuflections, just by. We felt how little was the comfort +to be had here <a name="page192"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +192</span>for the grief stricken relatives. From here we +passed the great Eiffel Tower, the Bourse, the Louvre, the +Tuileries, the Champs Elysees, the Bois de Boulogne, and the New +Opera House. The Pont Neuf or the New Bridge over the +Seine. Then to the tomb where lies all that remains of the +great Napoleon. Here, with uncovered heads, we gazed into +the grand mausoleum, and were constrained to moralize on the +vanity of human ambition; and of how short-lived and +unsatisfactory all worldly wealth, pomp and pleasure. We +passed the Pantheon and several places of great interest, but +time flies and we must away from Paris. My wife, however, +had become quite friendly and even affectionate with Miss Hughes, +so at parting there was the usual promise of postcards, +etc. We spent a little time with Mrs. Martin and her French +friend, then to the railway, and in a few hours ride we found +ourselves once again in Calais. We were not long in finding +our way to the boat, our travels had made us quite experts in +getting from boat to train and from train to boat. My +little wife had to go below; Mrs. Martin, who travelled with us, +bravely stood it. <a name="page193"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 193</span>However, we faced the sea bravely +because we knew that beyond it lay our home and loved ones +anticipating our home-coming. I spent my time on deck, and +really got a good blow from the briny. We landed at Dover +safe and well; and, after a very little time, we were on the +train, bound for the great city of London. It was dark as +we travelled through the country, so we could not see the places +of interest. We were glad to reach the “Manchester +Hotel,” our home from home. The Manager, Mr. +Hanscomb, received us with a warm welcome; and soon we felt we +were amongst English people and could again enjoy an English meal +in the English fashion. Only a night in the city and again +we are entrained for Nottingham. We had travelled now +nearly two thousand five hundred miles. Oh! the +anticipation! The slowness of the train, as we thought; +though it was a fast train. We, however, reached Home, +sweet Home, safely and well, after many strange experiences; and +Oh! what a Welcome! from my precious daughter, Ivy, and son +Gordon, and dear Auntie; then our dearest baby boy, with his +smiles and his dimples; and oh! what <a name="page194"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 194</span>a hug! Welcome home, was +apparent even from the servants, and we thought there is much +truth in Leonard Cooke’s poetry:</p> +<blockquote><p>“We have basked in the far off Eastern +Sun,<br /> +’Neath skies of unchanging gold;<br /> +Held by the spell of the Orient<br /> +With its mystery and charm untold.</p> +<p>But, Oh! to the heart that is English,<br /> +There is nought in a distant clime<br /> +As fair as a field in England<br /> +Decked out in the summer time.</p> +<p>There is joy in the white faced daisy,<br /> +No country afar can excel;<br /> +There’s a charm that out rivals the orchids<br /> +In the tints of the pimpernel.</p> +<p>There’s a scent in the fields of England<br /> +Rich spices can ne’er surpass,<br /> +A pang to the heart of the exile;<br /> +’Tis the scent of the cool green grass.”</p> +</blockquote> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">[FINIS].</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FROM THE THAMES TO THE TIBER***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 38183-h.htm or 38183-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/8/1/8/38183 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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