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diff --git a/38155-h/38155-h.htm b/38155-h/38155-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f1947b --- /dev/null +++ b/38155-h/38155-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6628 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + Norway, by Nico Jungman. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1,h2 { + text-align: center; + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: left; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +.pagenum { + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.left25 {margin-left: 25%;} +.right10 {margin-right: 10%;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold; + margin-left: 15%; + margin-right: 15%; + text-align: center; + margin-bottom: 2em;} + +ul.none {list-style-type:none;} + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.figright { + float: right; + clear: right; + margin-left: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 0; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} +.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} +.p40 {margin-top: 35em; + text-align: center; + font-weight: bold;} + +.b1 {font-size:1.5em;} +.s1 {font-size:.75em;} + +ul.none {list-style-type:none; + margin-left: 0; + padding-left: 1em; + text-indent: -1em;} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + empty-cells: show; +} +.tdc {text-align: center; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 1em;} +.tdr {text-align: right;} +.tdl {text-align: left;} + +.tnbox {margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + margin-bottom: 8em; + margin-top: auto; + border: 1px solid; + padding: 1em; + color: black; + background-color: #f6f2f2; + width: 25em;} + +.title_page { + font-size: x-large; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: bold; + font-variant: normal; + float: left; + height: 100px; + width: 300px; + margin-left: 37%; + margin-top: 50px; +} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Norway, by Beatrix Jungman + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Norway + +Author: Beatrix Jungman + +Illustrator: Nico Jungman + +Release Date: November 28, 2011 [EBook #38155] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NORWAY *** + + + + +Produced by Bryan Ness, Melissa McDaniel and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +book was produced from scanned images of public domain +material from the Google Print project.) + + + + + + +</pre> + +<div class="tnbox"> +<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> +<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. +Inconsistent hyphenation in the original +document has been preserved. Inconsistent spelling in the original +(e.g. "Holmencollen" and "Holmenkollen") has been preserved.</p> +<p>The following spelling corrections were made:</p> +<ul> +<li>"Bjornstjerne Bjornsen" changed to "Bjornstjerne Bjornson"</li> +<li>"Armed with his mighty hammer Mjolmer" changed to "Armed with his + mighty hammer Mjolnir"</li> +<li>"Moldoen" changed to "Moldöen"</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<h1>NORWAY</h1> + +<p class="center s1 p6">BY THE SAME ARTIST AND<br /> +AUTHOR</p> + +<p class="center">Holland</p> + +<p class="center s1">CONTAINING 76 FULL-PAGE<br /> +ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR</p> + +<p class="center s1">PRICE 20c. NET</p> + +<p class="center p6"><span class="s1">Agents in America</span><br /> +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY<br /> +<span class="s1">64 and 66 Fifth Avenue, New York</span></p> + +<div class="figcenter p6"><a name="i1" id="i1"></a> +<img src="images/i001.jpg" width="475" height="650" alt="COUNTRY GIRL FROM DALEN" /> +<p class="caption">COUNTRY GIRL FROM DALEN</p> +</div> + +<p class="title_page p6"> +NORWAY BY NICO +JUNGMAN · TEXT BY +BEATRIX JUNGMAN +PUBLISHED BY A. & C. +BLACK · LONDON · W<span class="figright"> +<img src="images/i002s.jpg" width="100" height="123" alt="logo" /> +</span></p> + +<p class="center p40">Published April 1905</p> + +<h2 class="p6">CONTENTS</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">v</a></span></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="2" summary="toc"> +<col width="200" /> +<col width="200" /> +<col width="200" /> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER I</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdr">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Precarious Travel</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER II</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Brottem, Aune, Sliper, Gjora, Sundalsoren, etc.</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER III</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">On the Fjords</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER IV</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Minor Romantic Episodes</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER V</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Mainly About Saints</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER VI</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Arts and Crafts</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER VII</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Farm-houses: Wedding Festivities</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td> +</tr> + +</table> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">vi</a></span></p> +<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="2" summary="toc"> +<col width="200" /> +<col width="200" /> +<col width="200" /> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER VIII</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Forestry: Reindeer: Land Tenures</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER IX</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Fisheries: The Lapps: Religion and Morals: Music</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_169">169</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdc">CHAPTER X</td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Legends and Literature</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_187">187</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<h2 class="p6">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">vii</a></span></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="2" summary="toc"> +<col width="40" /> +<col width="400" /> +<col width="160" /> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">1.</td> +<td class="tdl">Country Girl from Dalen</td> +<td class="tdr"><i><a href="#i1">Frontispiece</a></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdr">FACING PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">2.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Trondhjem—Old Boats</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i2">4</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">3.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Costume worn in the Bergen District</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i3">6</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">4.</td> +<td class="tdl"> The Road to Hell, near Trondhjem</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i4">8</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">5.</td> +<td class="tdl"> White Cap worn in the Bergen District</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i5">10</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">6.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Trondhjem</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i6">12</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">7.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Little Girl of Telemarken</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i7">14</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">8.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Making the Dinner—a Cottage Interior at Sælbo</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i8">16</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">9.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Bergen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i9">18</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">10.</td> +<td class="tdl"> On the Fjord, Sundalsoren</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i10">20</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">11.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Country-women selling Berries on the Road to Storen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i11">24</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">12.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Norwegian Captain</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i12">26</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">13.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Farm-house and Mill at Gjora</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i13">28</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">14.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Mountains and River at Gjora</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i14">30</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">15.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Little Farm on the Riverside at Gjora</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i15">32</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">16.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Ostre Kanalhavn, Trondhjem</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i16">34</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">17.</td> +<td class="tdl"> The Town of Molde</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i17">36</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">18.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Woman Spinning, Sundalsoren</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i18">38</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">19.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Snow-capped Mountain at Sundalsoren</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i19">40</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">20.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viiii" id="Page_viii">viii</a></span> +</td> +<td class="tdl"> Old Warehouse and Boats, Molde</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i20">46</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">21.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Mountains and Fjord facing Molde</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i21">48</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">22.</td> +<td class="tdl">Moldöen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i22">50</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">23.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Bergen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i23">52</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">24.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Fair Maiden of North Bergen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i24">54</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">25.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Bergen Boats and Warehouses</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i25">56</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">26.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Væfos, Hildal, Hardanger</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i26">58</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">27.</td> +<td class="tdl">A Hardanger Country Girl</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i27">64</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">28.</td> +<td class="tdl">Skjæggedalsfos, Hardanger</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i28">66</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">29.</td> +<td class="tdl">Hardanger Headdress</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i29">68</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">30.</td> +<td class="tdl">River at Haukeli</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i30">70</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">31.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Peasant of Sætersdalen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i31">72</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">32.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Espelandsfos, Hardanger</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i32">74</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">33.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Boy of Sætersdalen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i33">76</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">34.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Sundalsfjord</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i34">78</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">35.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Sætersdalen Girl in National Costume</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i35">80</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">36.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Sætersdalen Peasant Girl</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i36">86</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">37.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Moldöen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i37">88</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">38.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Cottage Interior, Telemarken</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i38">90</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">39.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Norwegian Girl</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i39">92</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">40.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Kjendalsbræ</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i40">94</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">41.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Typical Norwegian Maiden</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i41">96</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">42.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Baby of Telemarken</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i42">98</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">43.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Romsdals Horn</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i43">100</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">44.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Old Age, Telemarken</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i44">102</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">45.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">ix</a></span> +</td> +<td class="tdl"> Romsdals Waterfall</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i45">108</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">46.</td> +<td class="tdl"> The Houses of Parliament (Storthing), Christiania</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i46">110</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">47.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Ski Sports—the Great Holmencollen Day outside +Christiania</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i47">112</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">48.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Room by Munthe at Holmencollen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i48">114</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">49.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Skiers drinking Goosewine</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i49">116</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">50.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Girls on Overturned Sledge, Holmencollen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i50">118</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">51.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Old Canal, Christiania</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i51">120</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">52.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Sledging by Torchlight</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i52">122</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">53.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Making Native Tapestry</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i53">124</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">54.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Bird's-eye View of Christiania</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i54">126</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">55.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Vosse Bride</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i55">130</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">56.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Farm-houses built of Poles</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i56">132</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">57.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Country Girl, Bergen District</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i57">138</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">58.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Sætersdalen Bride</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i58">140</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">59.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Hardanger Bride</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i59">142</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">60.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Making "Flad-Brod"—a Cottage Interior</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i60">144</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">61.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Snow Plough drawn by Eight or Ten Horses</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i61">150</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">62.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Fishing through the Ice on Christiania Fjord</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i62">152</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">63.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Fishing-nets at Sundalsoren</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i63">156</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">64.</td> +<td class="tdl"> The Midnight Sun</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i64">158</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">65.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Mundal, Fjærland, Sognefjord</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i65">162</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">66.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Fishing-boats at Lofoten</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i66">170</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">67.</td> +<td class="tdl"> A Little Sætersdalen Peasant Girl</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i67">172</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">68.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Buerbræ, Odde Hardanger</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i68">174</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">69.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">x</a></span></td> +<td class="tdl"> A Lapp Mother and Child</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i69">176</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">70.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Snow-capped Mountains at Aune</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i70">178</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">71.</td> +<td class="tdl"> River at Gjora</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i71">182</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">72.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Grieg</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i72">184</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">73.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Henrik Ibsen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i73">188</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">74.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Bjornstjerne Bjornson</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i74">190</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr">75.</td> +<td class="tdl"> Fridtjof Nansen</td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#i75">192</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="b1 center p6">PRECARIOUS TRAVEL</p> + +<p class="b1 center p6">NORWAY</p> + +<p class="center p2">CHAPTER I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">PRECARIOUS TRAVEL</p> + +<p class="p2">Of the sea voyage to Norway the less said the +better. It is my habit to be ill when I am at sea. +That is unfortunate; but habit in itself engenders +a mode of philosophy that makes many of the evils +of life more easily bearable than they might otherwise +be. I expect to be ill, and literally lay myself +out for it; but Nico takes up an attitude of +aggrieved surprise that the ocean should thus +overcome him, and consequently is a far greater +sufferer than I am. However, it is easy to assume +a more or less frivolous tone when all is over, +and the fact must be admitted that the voyage to +Norway is almost invariably unpleasant to the +majority. From the Continent, one can go overland; +but such a country as Norway should be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span> +approached by sea. Still, many a valiant sportsman +prefers the land for his return when the autumn +winds begin to blow, and so it is not surprising +that less hardy natures are inclined to do the +same. It was summer when I visited Norway +for the first time; and, although one has frequent +chances of viewing the coast as one steams along +it from Stavanger to Trondhjem, I did not really +begin to take any interest in the country until I +had rested and eaten for some days in the latter +town. Certainly I had one experience in Bergen +during the two or three hours that we stopped +there on our way north. With my usual insatiable +thirst for dissipation, I insisted on visiting +a circus I had discovered upon the outskirts of +the town. The performance was not very thrilling; +but we are neither of us difficult to please, +and we stayed rather late. Thus, when we returned +to the quay the gangway of our vessel was being +pulled up. Nico made a rush for it, and was +saved; but could not prevent the sailors from completing +their task, and thus I was left lamenting. +However, the sailors finally threw me a rope, and +I managed to scramble on to the deck. It was +most undignified, and, I am afraid, from the +safety of the deck a most laughable spectacle; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span> +and I fled to hide my embarrassment in my +cabin, ultimately going supperless to bed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i2" id="i2"></a> +<img src="images/i003.jpg" width="650" height="476" alt="TRONDHJEM—OLD BOATS" /> +<p class="caption">TRONDHJEM—OLD BOATS<br /> +The form of the ancient Viking ships is still +preserved in these boats</p></div> + +<p>In Trondhjem it rained all day and all night, +and the inhabitants cheerfully told us that it was +always so. Nico, however, painted in the rain, +enveloped in mackintoshes and encompassed by +umbrellas, and was much disgusted to find that he +attracted no attention at all. Accustomed as I am +to be an object of inquisitive interest to the inhabitants +of small Dutch towns, I was rather relieved to +be taken so absolutely for granted in Norway, in +spots unfrequented even by ardent fishermen.</p> + +<p>At Trondhjem we were delighted with the +delicious salmon and sea-trout; but after some +weeks of salmon for breakfast, salmon for dinner, +and salmon for supper, I found myself wondering +whether it was all that it had seemed to me at +first. I am rather ashamed to have to confess +that, in spite of the fact that wherever English was +spoken the chances were that the conversation +turned upon salmon or trout fishing, neither Nico +nor I know anything of those earlier and more +exciting passages in the salmon's career which +culminate in his presence at the table. It may be +said that, with the exception of the Germans, who +visit the coast-line in ship-loads, there are practically +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span> +no <i>tourists</i> in Norway. Fish seem to be the +main object of the stranger within her gates; and, +as I have long despaired of grafting a sporting +taste upon the artistic temperament, I decided then +and there to leave the subject severely alone.</p> + +<p>Besides the anglers, many men go over for +shooting. There are still wild animals to be found; +licences are very cheap; and the Government even +offers a reward for the slaughter of certain beasts. +In the case of the rarer animals, such as the elk and +the wild reindeer, certain restrictions are placed +upon the foreign hunter. On the payment of a +sum between ten and twelve pounds he is allowed +to kill three reindeer and one elk. The native +hunter suffers from the same restrictions; but his +licence costs him very much less.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i3" id="i3"></a> +<img src="images/i004.jpg" width="474" height="650" alt="COSTUME WORN IN THE BERGEN DISTRICT" /> +<p class="caption">COSTUME WORN IN THE BERGEN DISTRICT</p> +</div> + +<p>All this has little to do with Trondhjem. We +were rather unlucky there, and were not, perhaps, +so much impressed as we ought to have been. +Calculations based upon careful study of the +guide-book proved to be incorrect, and we found +the doors of the Cathedral constantly closed against +us. As it is <i>the</i> object of interest in the place, +we were somewhat impatient, and, when we did +contrive to obtain entrance, were not in any way +mollified to find the building pervaded by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span> +spectacled and reverential Germans, who bestowed +superciliously indignant glances upon us, as on +persons who were unjustly sharing a view arranged +for their party specially. It is certainly a most +beautiful building, and is being restored in a +worthy manner. I remarked as much to Nico at +the moment, but was immediately suppressed by +the ancient guardian acting as our guide, who +begged me in very stately broken English not to +interrupt his discourse. Later we went to a +music-hall and sat through a most extraordinary +programme twice repeated. Nico ordered beer, +and was served with an immense plate of +variegated sandwiches in addition. This, I believe, +was in accordance with the law that forbids the +sale of intoxicating liquors unless food is served +with them. All over Norway the most complicated +laws are in force with respect to drink, and +these laws seem to be different in every town and +village. I have not gone into the subject deeply; +but it is certainly a rare thing to meet with a +drunken Norwegian in the country parts.</p> + +<p>Trondhjem always has been, and still is, the +crowning place of the Norwegian kings. It seems +to me that it is a long way to go for such a +purpose; but I concluded that it was an affair in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span> +which the kings alone were concerned. We +walked out to a beautiful waterfall near the town, +called the Lerfos, and came back by rail. Some +idea of the speed attained by the trains may be +gathered from the fact that, although the train +had started when we reached the station, we were +able to board it quite easily after it had gone some +distance. Then, one very wet morning we decided +that we had had enough of the place, and, shaking +the mud from our boots, we took train to Hell. +I refrain from the obvious little jokes that may be +made upon such a journey, and merely record the +fact that we arrived very cold, and soon became +very wet during our stay there. The station +buildings were all locked up; and we wandered +about disconsolately, waiting for the cart which +was to meet us and drive us to Sælbo, where we +had decided to spend a few days. The vehicle +which we had chosen was a <i>stolkjærre</i>, and I +must here explain some of the difficulties of +locomotion peculiar to Norway. The mileage +of railway is small in proportion to the size of +the country: the natural formation of the land presents +immense difficulties to the engineer. To +these obstacles must be added the very hard +winters, the heavy rainfall, and the exceeding +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span> +scantiness of the population in many parts of +the country. Consequently, almost all travelling +is carried out by means of an admirably arranged +posting system. On all the roads, at distances +varying from seven to eleven miles, may be +found posting stations where horses may be +changed; where, also, the traveller may eat and +sleep. These wayside inns are generally farmhouses, +varying widely in their capacity for the +entertainment of man and beast. They are +obliged to keep a certain number of carts and +horses for the use of travellers at a specified +rate per kilometre, fixed by the Government, +such rates being subject to slight increase where +particularly mountainous roads are concerned. +There are three classes of vehicles in general +use. The <i>carriole</i>, which is the typical Norwegian +conveyance, is exceedingly comfortable +and well adapted to its purpose; it is built for +one person, and runs easily on good springs, and +may be likened to an armchair on wheels, but so +arranged that one can either sit in it with knees +bent, as in an ordinary vehicle, or stretched out at +full length in a kind of trough. This obviates the +stiffness engendered by endless hours of driving +in one position. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i4" id="i4"></a> +<img src="images/i005.jpg" width="650" height="478" alt="THE ROAD TO HELL, NEAR TRONDHJEM" /> +<p class="caption">THE ROAD TO HELL, NEAR TRONDHJEM<br /> +This is one of the rare railway stations +of Norway</p></div> + +<p>The stolkjærre, on the other hand, is a terrible +invention, as much like one of our plumber's handcarts +with a rough wooden seat in it as anything +I can think of. It holds two people and a certain +amount of luggage. On the main roads one finds +the carts fitted with something in the way of springs; +but upon roads such as it was our fortune to be +driven on, often badly in need of repairs, they were +usually much behind the times, and it was a +wonderful and awful sensation to drive for untold +hours under such conditions.</p> + +<p>The carriole and the stolkjærre have a small +seat at the back for the boy who is sent by the +proprietor, to be changed, along with the horse and +cart, at each station; but in the case of the third +method of locomotion—that is to say, with much +style and excessive slowness—one takes over the +responsibility of the whole affair—namely, coachman, +horses, and carriage, which in this case is +called <i>kaleschevogn</i>,—only to be laid aside when +one arrives at one's final destination, and using +the stations only for the purpose of resting and +eating. To return to the carriole and the +stolkjærre. It must be noted that one is expected +to drive oneself, though, if anything goes wrong +with the horse and cart, the driver is responsible. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span> +The mountain ponies are very surefooted and need +no guidance; but it was our fate to be made +acquainted with cattle that shied, with others that +tripped, and with one pony (I recall the occurrence +with horror) that stumbled on a narrow road, cut +out of the almost perpendicular side of a mountain, +three thousand feet above a roaring torrent. One +wheel of our vehicle was actually in mid-air; +but, fortunately, the horse fell on the shaft that +was on the mountain side of the pass. Had this +not been so, one of the stones that mark the site +of such accidents on the Norwegian roads would +have been erected to our memory.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i5" id="i5"></a> +<img src="images/i006.jpg" width="470" height="650" alt="WHITE CAP WORN IN THE BERGEN DISTRICT" /> +<p class="caption">WHITE CAP WORN IN THE BERGEN DISTRICT</p> +</div> + +<p>It was at Hell that we had our first experience +of the stolkjærre. This was after waiting some +three hours, which Nico improved by making a +sketch, while I looked for visionary wild strawberries +in the soaking grass. Then appeared a +cosy little carriole, upholstered in red velvet, and +carefully covered with tarpaulins. This was +immediately taken over by a prosperous station +official, who drove off in comparative comfort. +In a few minutes appeared the plumber's handcart +which I have already attempted to describe, +and in it a very diminutive boy, who manfully +tackled the luggage, which he endeavoured to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span> +make fast with a heap of very thin string, supplemented +by straps from Nico's sketching equipment. +Now we were really off, and I had time +to study our pony. He had a long and heavy +tail, which he would toss over the reins; the +pressure he thus brought to bear he promptly +obeyed, and we pursued a somewhat erratic course, +varied by descents upon the part of the diminutive +boy to replace the pony's tail. At length we +reached a lonely farmhouse, at which, he implied, +we were to alight; and we paid him his little bill, +with the addition of a small <i>pourboire</i>. He shook +hands very gravely with Nico, and, looking again +at his money, inwardly decided that we deserved +a little more attention, and shook hands with me +too. We did not know anything about posting, +and, somewhat overwhelmed with this ceremonious +leave-taking, stood for some time in doubt as to +what to do next. Soon an old woman appeared +at the door of the house, and beckoned us in. I +explained as well as I could, with the help of a +phrase-book, that we wanted a horse and stolkjærre +as quickly as possible. This seemed to amuse the +old lady immensely. She laughed until the tears +came into her eyes, and, taking the book from my +hands, examined it intently upside down. As it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> +was getting late and we had still a long way to go, +Nico tried what could be done by a pantomimic +display. Sitting astride a chair, he tied his handkerchief +to represent the reins, and supplemented +the performance with encouraging noises addressed +to an imaginary steed. This tickled the people of +the house; but I realised that we were no nearer +our object, and decided to forage for myself. I +boldly ascended the steep incline of logs upheld by +beams that led from the yard to a very dark stable. +I found no horse; but there was a stolkjærre without +the ghost of a spring. I appealed again to +the old lady, who had followed me, for a horse. +She merely patted me, and, I think, urged me to +be calm. Just at this moment another boy +appeared upon the scene, and inquired whether +it was really a horse that we wanted. Knowing +the Norwegian for <i>horse</i>, I nodded vigorously. +He smiled indulgently, but took no other step. +After another half hour's alternate shouting and +periods of calm, the boy roused himself to action +and went off, while the old lady, who, I believe, +was really kind and interested in us, took me into +the kitchen and made up the fire, as she discovered +that my hands were cold. I suppose she knew +what we wanted all the time, and that we ought +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span> +to have taken things more easily; but at that time +I knew nothing of the unwritten laws with regard +to posting in Norway.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i6" id="i6"></a> +<img src="images/i007.jpg" width="474" height="650" alt="TRONDHJEM" /> +<p class="caption">TRONDHJEM</p> +</div> + +<p>We had a terribly long drive, through magnificent +scenery, going uphill for miles; and very +desolate and wild it seemed in the half light of that +damp and dreary evening. Not a human being did +we meet, and scarcely a dwelling was to be seen +along the route. It was midnight when we reached +our destination, one of the typical boarding-houses +scattered all over Norway, in which inhabitants of +the towns not possessing villas of their own pass a +few weeks in the summer. They are called "sanatoriums," +generally provide fishing, and are always +amid glorious scenery. The ones that I visited were +splendidly managed, and exceedingly reasonable in +their charges. Marienborg, the name of the small +sanatorium in which we stayed at Sælbo, is exquisitely +situated above a very charming lake, and +new beauties discovered themselves in whatever +direction one wandered. The air is perfect, and the +weather almost dependable, in the few short weeks +of summer. It was now the middle of August. +The hostess was carefully tending her strawberry-beds, +and pointed out to us a fine specimen that +was still green. The meals at this establishment +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span> +may be taken, I think, as typical of those of the +whole of Northern Norway. Breakfast (when you +wish) consists of coffee and cream, eggs, and +various odorous kinds of cheese, of which I can +only remember the names of two, the reindeer +cheese and the goat cheese. Dinner is at two +o'clock. Salmon is a staple dish; the meat, generally +mutton, is not much to boast of. The game, +when one can get it, is excellent. The people +seem to care little for any vegetable except +potatoes. A great "feature" of the meal is the +dishes of fresh berries served with an abundance of +delicious cream. The milk, which is a general +drink, is always skimmed. The bread is an +acquired taste, cinnamon and caraway seeds being +often used as a flavouring. A strange bread, +which at its best form was rather pleasant, +consisted of sheets of wafer-like thinness and +considerable size, broken up to the requirements of +the eaters. This is served with every meal. One +seemed to be eating tissue paper without pulp. +Though it is difficult to believe in its nourishing +qualities, a Norwegian meal would be incomplete +without it. Amid more gorgeous circumstances it +is rejected for a delicately flavoured smooth wafer +which is really pleasing with butter. In places +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span> +near the sea we were delighted with the abundance +of prawns and lobsters; prawns of such perfection +I had never tasted before. It is very difficult to +get fresh butter. As a rule it is made in the +saeters in the mountains, where the cattle are kept +in summer, and on account of the heat is very +much oversalted before being sent down.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i7" id="i7"></a> +<img src="images/i008.jpg" width="485" height="650" alt="LITTLE GIRL OF TELEMARKEN" /> +<p class="caption">LITTLE GIRL OF TELEMARKEN</p> +</div> + +<p>We stayed some time at Sælbo, as the only way +to leave it was by riding along a narrow bridle-path +for over a hundred kilometres, and this was +not likely to be very pleasant. The only way to +avoid it was by partially retracing our footsteps, +and this we liked still less. Nico had become +devoted to the picturesque log buildings with their +delightful grass roofs studded with flowers, and +even in some cases actually bearing small trees; +and I had discovered a dear old woman who passed +her time in knitting curious triangular gloves. +She had been nurse in an English family many +years before, and could speak a sort of English. +She loved to tell me tales of her former charges; +she did not seem to mind how much I understood, +and no more did I. Her two sons were in +America, whence they sent her a sufficient allowance +to keep her in comparative comfort, and in +addition to this she sold the gloves she passed her +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span> +time in knitting. She lived all alone in a log +house consisting of one large room, which served +her for all purposes except sleeping (a tiny cabin +built in the main wall served for that), and containing +very little furniture, the peasantry in Norway +having the good sense to appreciate the advantages +of space. Large tables with folding legs are fixed +with hinges to the wall, and when not in use are +hooked up out of the way. In one corner of the +room was the round whitewashed open fireplace +and chimney which are characteristic of these log +houses—infinitely to be preferred, from a comforting +as well as a picturesque point of view, to the tall +iron stoves generally in use. The stoves have +their qualities, however, being narrow and made in +four or five divisions above that intended for fuel, +which is invariably wood. Each of these compartments +has its own temperature, and is to be used +with discretion for drying and heating purposes. +One word of warning: do not put your boots in +the partition nearest the fire.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i8" id="i8"></a> +<img src="images/i017.jpg" width="475" height="650" alt="MAKING THE DINNER—A COTTAGE INTERIOR AT SÆLBO" /> +<p class="caption">MAKING THE DINNER—A COTTAGE INTERIOR AT SÆLBO</p> +</div> + +<p>At our sanatorium all the visitors ate at one +table, and we were charmed at our first acquaintance +with a custom which holds good all through +Norway. When the meal is over all the guests +wait for the hostess to rise; then they follow her +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span> +example and gravely bow, thus thanking one +another for the honour conferred during the repast. +This practice is observed wherever two or more +people are seated at the same table, even though +they may be absolute strangers.</p> + +<p>We had now discovered that by crossing the +lake on a very old steamer we should reach a place +called Brottem and thence proceed northwards to +a spot from which we could pursue our journey. +We parted from the lovely smiling place with +many regrets, and, boarding the steamer, found we +had it to ourselves. At a bend in the lake Sælbo +was lost to our sight, while on either side of the +narrow water the banks rose precipitously, thickly +wooded with pines. The sun had disappeared, and +the air was growing cold, when suddenly the +steamer stopped, the captain proclaiming in a +matter-of-fact tone that the engine refused to work. +We ascertained that we were in no actual danger; +but out of sight and sound of humanity, on a tiny +and very ancient vessel, we were in a position of +unpleasant possibilities. We remained stationary +for two hours. Then one of our three navigators +had a brilliant inspiration. That was to examine the +engines, which had not, apparently, occurred to any +of them before! After a little coaxing the vessel +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span> +began to move again; and we eventually landed +on the farther shore of the lake, very cold, very +hungry, and much belated.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i9" id="i9"></a> +<img src="images/i016.jpg" width="472" height="650" alt="BERGEN" /> +<p class="caption">BERGEN</p> +</div> + +<p>Here we found a large farmhouse surrounded +by many outbuildings, and evidently prosperous. +We were received with enthusiasm by the burly +proprietor, his servants, and a Norwegian family +engaged in fishing who were staying at the place. +A splendid meal was prepared, and, to my joy, a +wood fire was roaring in the tall iron stove of a +large bedroom set apart for me. The fishing +family knew a few words of English, which they +were as much pleased to speak as we to hear. +Next day was a Sunday, and at dinner Nico in his +ignorance expressed a desire for something to +drink, which was refused, as nothing could be sold +on that day. The kind fishermen came to the +rescue. They plied us with rare wines, and under +that friendly influence we thawed gratefully. I +found them enthusiastic whist-players, and eagerly +desirous of mastering the intricacies of bridge. I +did what I could in one short afternoon to enlighten +them, and soon after sent them two scoring +boards. Probably they will evolve a game for themselves +which in the next generation will utterly +eclipse bridge, as bridge has eclipsed whist and solo.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i10" id="i10"></a> +<img src="images/i015.jpg" width="650" height="480" alt="ON THE FJORD, SUNDALSOREN" /> +<p class="caption">ON THE FJORD, SUNDALSOREN</p> +</div> + +<p class="center p6 b1">BROTTEM, AUNE, SLIPER,<br /> +GJORA, SUNDALSOREN, ETC.</p> + +<p class="center p6">CHAPTER II<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">BROTTEM, AUNE, SLIPER, GJORA, SUNDALSOREN, ETC.</p> + +<p class="p2">We had a splendid pony and quite a comfortable +stolkjærre from Brottem to the next station, where +we took the train to our resting-place for the night, +a well-known fishing hotel at Storen. One of the +excellent incidents of travelling in Norway is the +service, which is exceedingly well done by women. +They are so quick and clean and agreeable that +they contribute to the enjoyment of one's wayfaring. +The deft maids at the Storen hotel were +no exception to the rule; but the place was not +very sympathetic to us. We stayed only long +enough for Nico to make one or two pictures of +spots which pleased him. Then we began a long +drive right across the country, half the distance off +the main road, having as our destination the town +of Molde. We lingered for weeks over our drive, +staying for days at the various little stations which +appealed to us specially by reason of that mystic +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span> +attraction some spots have and others lack, which +can neither be analysed nor explained.</p> + +<p>At a place called Aune we left the main route, +and here the road began to be exceedingly bad—far +and away the worst we came across in Norway. +Before this we were struck with the splendid way +the roads are constructed and kept.</p> + +<p>Our hearts were in our mouths one dusky +evening as we galloped down the narrow road +cut out of the precipitous side of a mountain: +seven hundred feet below foamed and roared a +torrent. We reached the valley in safety; but +I had terrible dreams about frightened or unsteady +ponies for nights afterwards.</p> + +<p>At Aune we met two very handsome Norwegians, +who were crossing the country on foot. +They were taking a holiday in this way; but +many poor students are obliged to make use of +shanks' ponies for the strongest of reasons. This +slow driving during long distances becomes very +expensive, and I presume that the continual +stoppages at hotels must be an important item. +I mention these good-looking people, not because +we found them very interesting, but because I was +surprised all through Norway to find so few men +with any of the external qualities of the Viking. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span> +I had imagined that the type was strongly +implanted in the Norsemen. Even in build the +majority are unsatisfactory. A careful study of +statistics on the subject informed me that the +Norwegians are the tallest European race; but I +can only suppose that the average is brought up +by a certain number of excessively tall men. Also, +the Norseman is inclined to become fat early in +middle life. On the whole, the middle class is +not to be distinguished from the usual type of +Dutchmen and Germans with which we are +familiar. The women have been treated in a +much kindlier fashion by Nature. Even those +whose features do not actually admit of their being +called handsome have such smiling frank faces that +they are most pleasant to look upon. In using +womenkind so extensively in the place of man-servants +the Norwegians show wisdom and good +taste.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i11" id="i11"></a> +<img src="images/i014.jpg" width="466" height="650" alt="COUNTRY-WOMEN SELLING BERRIES ON THE ROAD TO STOREN" /> +<p class="caption">COUNTRY-WOMEN SELLING BERRIES ON THE ROAD TO STOREN</p> +</div> + +<p>From Aune we had a terrible drive over a road +in the making. The old path was too bad to use +at all; and the new road jerked us here up a foot, +there down a foot, as the various processes gone +through in levelling had been completed or not. +At last we left the roadmakers behind us, and +drove for some kilometres along the old road to a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span> +small station called Sliper, a terrible drive which +by this time will, fortunately, have ceased to be +possible.</p> + +<p>We were delighted with Sliper. At the station +were two houses, the station's and another. +We stayed at the other. We had actually +ordered the horse, meaning to go on, when a +beautiful Norwegian woman beckoned to us from +her doorway in the other house. She invited +us to warm ourselves while we were waiting, +and gladly we climbed up the twenty-five steps +leading to her large room. The flap table was +painted bright red, as were the benches, and the +few pieces of furniture were carved and painted +wood. The brilliant colours were mellowed by +time and perhaps by smoke from the wood fire, +which burnt in a round open grate in a corner. +An immense cauldron was suspended from a chain +in the chimney. In it was stewing a savoury mess +of mutton and potatoes. In front sat a pale little +girl, the only living child of the beautiful hostess. +The latter had the most perfect teeth I have ever +seen, and waving masses of golden hair. At either +end of the big room was a small bedchamber. +One the family used, and the other was kept for +the possible guest. I believe that, as the station +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span> +house had room for us, we were quite wrong in +staying with the neighbour; but I think the station +people were not very energetic—they did not object +so much as they had the right to do. In any case, +there we stayed for three days, living and eating +in the big room with mother and child. With the +exception of our supper on the first night, we had +no meat. We lived contentedly on potatoes and +eggs, fruit and cream, and abominable butter. It +is strange how far the atmosphere of a place can +defeat prejudices.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i12" id="i12"></a> +<img src="images/i013.jpg" width="377" height="650" alt="NORWEGIAN CAPTAIN" /> +<p class="caption">NORWEGIAN CAPTAIN</p> +</div> + +<p>However, soon Nico became hungry, and I +finished my small stock of literature. We took +our horse and stolkjærre, and without a boy we +followed the post on the road to Gjora. When +we had driven a few kilometres, keeping the post +carriole with its bag and its horn well in sight, we +discovered that we had left the purse containing +most of our wealth behind us at Sliper. Nico +drove back at the pony's best pace. This best pace +could not have been very wonderful. An eternity +seemed to be passing as I sat on a big rock, waiting +for the return of the companion and the purse. +A few cows walked by me in inquisitive procession. +I effaced myself as much as possible. +I am ridiculously afraid of cows. Even the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span> +Norwegian cow, which I know theoretically to be +the gentlest of creatures, can subdue me with a +look and drive me to seek for any available hiding-place. +At last I heard wheels; but they were +coming the wrong way. The two men in the cart +looked at me curiously, and drew up in front of +me. One addressed me in very good English. It +appeared that the post-driver had warned the +people at Gjora station of our near arrival, and had +presumably mentioned that we had no boy. After +they had allowed an hour and a half to elapse, +they were good enough to become anxious, and had +come to look for us. I explained our delay, and +we all waited for Nico's appearance. At the end +of another half-hour he turned up. The horse had +lain down quite calmly and refused to go on. He +had tried kindness, which was of little use; he had +waited for a passer-by who could speak the horse's +language; in course of time the beast, having +enjoyed a siesta, got up and continued his journey. +Hence the delay.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i13" id="i13"></a> +<img src="images/i012.jpg" width="650" height="475" alt="FARM-HOUSE AND MILL AT GJORA" /> +<p class="caption">FARM-HOUSE AND MILL AT GJORA</p> +</div> + +<p>All's well that ends well. When we arrived at +Gjora we met with a warm reception from our host +and his family. The stove was lit in an immense +bedroom which was <i>en plus</i> furnished with two +box-like beds of questionable shape, a small chair +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span> +which was masquerading as a wash-hand stand +bearing a small jug and basin and two minute +towels, a writing-table, and many photographs of +the Royal Family. Also, there was a tame bluebottle +which worried me very much. All our +blandishments were of no avail with the heartless +insect. The open windows could not persuade him +to leave us, and, in the flickering light of one +candle in the large room, it was impossible to get +rid of him by foul means. Every night as we went +to bed he started his low buzzing and spoilt my +temper and my sleep. Nico didn't mind it a bit.</p> + +<p>The dining-room at Gjora was palatial. I sat in +a carved armchair upholstered in crimson velvet, +and we ate from beautiful silver, serving ourselves +with sugar from the very choicest old bowl I have +ever seen. The cupboard, the sideboard, and the +clock were beautifully carved and coloured. We +lived on a princely tin of corned beef. For three +days it provided us with two meals a day, and very +good they were.</p> + +<p>Next door to the station—indeed, I believe, the +house in other times is the station—an English +family were spending the summer, fishing and +walking. The English-speaking man we met on +the road was the gentleman's gillie. They regaled +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span> +us physically with various edibles from the Stores +and spiritually with salmon stories, and when we +left they sped us on our way with a new stock of +reading matter. The country all round is exceedingly +beautiful. The river which provided the +fishing for our compatriots winds along by the +road; or rather I should say that the road follows +the course of the river for many miles through +narrow passes in the mountains which press round—many +of them snow-capped, as one may see +when the veil of cloud which envelops them lifts +to allow a sight of their summits. The station is +in a cosy little hollow among these white-headed +giants; and the weather is noticeably finer, the +atmosphere softer, than at the preceding and succeeding +stations.</p> + +<p>Between Gjora and our next resting-place, +Sundalsoren, we drove through magnificent scenery. +I think it will be admitted that the Sundal is at +least as beautiful as that famous valley which lies +almost parallel to it—the Romsdal. From the +road one may see glaciers and snow mountains. +Here and there are notices warning the traveller to +drive fast. This is more especially for winter, +when huge snow avalanches are frequent. The +road crosses from left to right of the river. We +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span> +drove over bridge after bridge, backwards and +forwards, as the river pursued its erratic course +without regarding the convenience of roadmaking +mankind. We arrived at Sundalsoren at sunset, +and were enraptured with the beauty of the snow +mountains. Whether it was thus arriving in such +glory, or that the place has really a most individual +charm, I cannot say; but for me Sundalsoren is a +memory entirely <i>couleur de rose</i>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i14" id="i14"></a> +<img src="images/i011.jpg" width="650" height="476" alt="MOUNTAINS AND RIVER AT GJORA" /> +<p class="caption">MOUNTAINS AND RIVER AT GJORA</p> +</div> + +<p>It is a small fishing village at the head of a fjord. +The fishermen's little low houses are built round +the concave land, which is washed by the waters of +the fjord. On the stony beach before the cottages +are spread fishing-nets and tackle, including the +bright silvered balls which, I suppose, attract the +fish. Two wooden quays stretch their long arms +into the water, and from the farthest point of them +one may get a delightful view of the village. The +character of the place is Dutch. It is almost as if +a little street from Volendam had been dumped +down amid the mountains and the snows.</p> + +<p>We were sorry to part from this charming spot +when the little fjord steamer called for us and +another passenger. Slowly we steamed through +the fjord, now calling at a tiny hamlet on the left +bank, now dropping a passenger in his waiting boat +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span> +on the right side; here picking up three English +fishermen, boat and all; there leaving them near +their destination rested and refreshed. The +steamers that ply the innumerable fjords are +accommodating craft—none of your haughty +vessels making hard-and-fast rules as to times and +places. Although they are often punctual in their +departures and arrivals, they will slow down and +pick you up in whatever part of the fjord you choose +to meet them, and put you down too if you have +your boat along with you. Also it is to be noted +that the food on the smaller boats is quite as +good as one gets on the large steamers that make +the journeys on what may be called the outer +coast of Norway. Indeed, the bigger vessels are +so often loaded with various strongly-smelling +dried fish that the whole atmosphere is impregnated; +which must rob some passengers of +any appetite the occasional few miles of rough +open sea has left or given them.</p> + +<p>After quitting Sundalsoren we drove through two +or three good stations, and arrived late on Saturday +night at a small place which, as it is on no map +and many consultations with Bennett's have +resulted in the conclusion that we were quite off +the beaten track, must be nameless. At the time +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span> +I knew the name—we had it on the bill;—but no +one seemed to be able to place it, and now I have +forgotten. I have a theory which may account for +our presence there. At one of the previous stations +we had telephoned in advance for a horse and cart +to be ready, as it was very rainy and very wet and +getting late. The horse we had was very fast; the +driver was a cheerful person with a slight knowledge +of English. Within a kilometre of the station, +where, I presume, an equipage was in waiting, he +offered to drive us straight on to our destination, +because we had expressed great satisfaction with +the trotting of his pony. We agreed, and tore +through the tiny village built round the station +in great haste, egged on, perhaps, by a guilty +conscience. Then we drove for miles and miles +until at last, at half-past ten at night, we reached +the unknown little spot which I must perforce +call X.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i15" id="i15"></a> +<img src="images/i010.jpg" width="650" height="476" alt="A LITTLE FARM ON THE RIVERSIDE AT GJORA" /> +<p class="caption">A LITTLE FARM ON THE RIVERSIDE AT GJORA</p> +</div> + +<p>It is possible that, knowing that the expectant +farmer at the avoided station would telephone to +the station on either side of him, the driver preferred +not to face them until their anger should +have calmed and he should have had time to +invent some excuse. I do not know to what +extent he expected to be blamed; but I am afraid +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span> +the man we telephoned to must have been rather +mad, and so I imagine that we were driven to this +quaint spot because there our sin would not find us +out. Inadvertently I left a large silver scent-bottle +there, and acknowledged the loss to be a judgment +on me when I found it impossible to find the +place again.</p> + +<p>When we arrived we went to bed. In the +morning we had coffee and bread and jam; and +Nico painted. At three o'clock we were hungry, +and when at length preparations for a meal were +made our appetites were ravenous. A dear little +girl waited on us—a very pretty child, with +beautiful hair. She brought on the table a few +slices of thick and very fat raw bacon and some +caraway-seed bread. Hungry as we were, we +could not eat that. We tried to ask her what +more there was. She left the room, and soon +came back carrying the <i>pièce de resistance</i> of our +meal—two soup plates filled with a paste made of +flour and water, such as we used to employ in the +days of scrap-books. On the top of this floated +a little melted butter. With this she brought +a basin of powdered cinnamon. That was our +Sunday dinner. They were such sweet people that +we feared to hurt their feelings, and Nico ate all his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span> +plateful and half of mine. The half that was left +we divided between our plates, which then looked +quite empty enough. We ate caraway-seed bread +for supper and caraway-seed bread for breakfast. +With the help of our phrase book, we gathered +that they never ate meat and very rarely had +fresh fish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i16" id="i16"></a> +<img src="images/i009.jpg" width="470" height="650" alt="OSTRE KANALHAVN, TRONDHJEM" /> +<p class="caption">OSTRE KANALHAVN, TRONDHJEM</p> +</div> + +<p>The place is situated on water which, I suppose, +is a fjord, and there are three or four houses besides +the one at which we stayed. They made us understand +that they were not in any way prepared for +guests, and had some difficulty in providing us +with a horse and cart. I should be very much +interested to know the name of this little place. +It is within two hours' drive of Molde, and as far as +I could make out it had scarcely ever been visited +by the foreign traveller. We were astonished to +find ourselves so near to this big town, for we had +calculated that we had at least another half-day's +journey to make; which proves again that somewhere +we had overstepped our mark.</p> + +<p>Molde is the most beautifully situated town +in Norway. It has a population of 1800 souls. +It is a very important port of call for all the +steamers which coast between Bergen, Trondhjem, +and the North. The town is built along the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> +mouth of the Romsdal Fjord, and from almost any +point a view of the grand Romsdal Mountains is to +be obtained. The panorama on a clear day is +gorgeous. To see the sun setting over the fjord +and its background of snow-tipped peaks is to +have a vision of fairy-like colour and beauty that +takes one's breath away. All over Norway as one +passes through the valleys and the winding fjords +picture after picture are witnessed in rich succession, +each seeming more beautiful than the last; +but now, as at a certain distance of time I endeavour +to recall their individual charms, I think +that these glorious evenings in Molde occupy the +most pleasant place in the memory of one of +Norway's ardent admirers.</p> + +<p>How rash thus to limit one's enthusiasm! +From Molde we went by steamer to Næs, and, +after resting awhile at an hotel and eating an +excellent supper, took a miraculously comfortable +stolkjærre and had a long drive to Horgheim +in the brilliant moonlight. I wonder how many +visitors to the Romsdal have done the same? +Imagine the charm of it. The delicate jagged +edges of the mountains on the right of the road +stand sharp and clear against the blueness of the +sky; as the road winds in and out the Romsdal +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span> +Horn reveals or conceals herself bathed in moonlight; +innumerable waterfalls foam down from +the heights with plashing music, looking like silver +streamers hung out to decorate the beautiful way +of some mystic procession. Our driver was for the +time an affinity: no longer a guide in our pay, +or in that of the hotel, taking tourists through a +world-renowned stretch of scenery, but a romantic +Norseman slowly opening out to us a valley of +delight, his possession by inheritance and love.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i17" id="i17"></a> +<img src="images/i018.jpg" width="650" height="476" alt="THE TOWN OF MOLDE" /> +<p class="caption">THE TOWN OF MOLDE</p> +</div> + +<p>He told us with a smile that was not quite +incredulous of the little goblins with blue beards +that, according to the peasants, haunt the fields +and fjords of these parts. There are good and bad +pixies, and much blame is laid at the door of the +bad ones for any mischances that come about. +What wonder that the people are superstitious +folk? Perhaps it would be better to call them +mystics. What sounds and sights may be heard +and seen in such a land! Our Norseman pointed +out a certain group among the jagged pinnacles of +the rock, and told us a legend describing how a +bridal party, instead of being the happiest of the +happy, quarrelled and fought and were by magic +turned in an instant into stone. Here they stand +as a warning to future bridals. The groom and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span> +bride turn away from each other; the best man +stands for ever with a foaming tankard in his hand; +near by is the well-fed priest; apart and solitary is +the figure of a disconsolate lover. Look at them in +the moonlight: you will see them all quite distinctly: +soon they will step down from their +heights and mix with mortal men again. The air +is full of movement and strange sounds.</p> + +<p>During the long way back, the wonderful person +who had been appointed to drive us entertained +us with legends of the gods and Vikings. These +brave admirals of old times met with burial befitting +their state and courage. The ship which +they had sailed so well through wild storms and +wilder battles was dragged ashore, and this and +nothing less was the coffin for their richly-dressed +mortal remains. The souls of the Vikings killed +by the sword went straightway to Walhalla, where +their ideal of bliss was meted out to them in +guerdon for their bravery. At cockcrow all the +heroes marched out and fought furiously one with +another; but at midday all the wounds were healed, +and the rest of the day was spent in banqueting +with the great god Odin. Walhalla was said to be +a hall of such size that the roof could not be seen. +In it was a forest of golden trees. The walls were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span> +decorated with shields and warlike weapons, and +through each of its five hundred and forty doors +eight hundred warriors could walk abreast.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i18" id="i18"></a> +<img src="images/i019.jpg" width="468" height="650" alt="WOMAN SPINNING, SUNDALSOREN" /> +<p class="caption">WOMAN SPINNING, SUNDALSOREN</p> +</div> + +<p>I was sleepy, and I was awed with the majesty +of all we had seen; but I wondered what sort of +heaven was arranged for the wives and daughters +of the Vikings!</p> + +<p>Some days after this moonlight drive I came +across a book containing details relating to +Norwegian mythology, which may be of some +interest. Everyone knows that most of the week-days +derived their names from these Northern +gods. From Ostara, the goddess of spring, we +get the name of our spring feast, Easter. Decoration +with flowers and the custom of Easter eggs are +as old as Paganism; and our Christian forefathers, +to facilitate the change to the new religion, adopted +many Pagan rites and dedicated them to the +service of the true God.</p> + +<p>Odin was the father of the gods and the greatest +among them. Thor was the red-bearded god of +storm. Armed with his mighty hammer Mjolnir, +he slew the powerful giants of winter—not without +much difficulty, however; for at first, overcome by +sleep, Thor relaxed his vigilance, and the wintry +giants stole his hammer and buried it in the hard +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span> +earth. Awakened and conscious of his loss, Thor +appealed to Freya, the beautiful and benevolent +goddess of love and spring. Her gentle influence +subdued the giants of snow and ice, and Thor, +seizing his opportunity, regained his mighty weapon, +which he wielded to such effect that the giants +were killed and their fortifications broken down.</p> + +<p>Though the gods are usually triumphant in these +old Northern sagas, the demons on occasion +gained their bad ends. It was thus in the story +of Baldur, the god of light and most beloved of +all the gods. In the full beauty of his youth he +was killed by the power of Loki, the embodiment +of envy, hatred, and revenge, and incidentally the +god of fire. In the beginning Loki lived happily +with the other gods; but Odin cursed him for ever +for his wickedness. It was foretold that the loved +Baldur was to be the victim of some treachery, and +the gods made efforts to prevent such a catastrophe. +Frigga, who was the wife of Odin, placed a spell +upon everything, so that there might be nothing +in Nature that could hurt Baldur. On account of +its insignificance, the mistletoe was forgotten by the +goddess, and of this Loki made an instrument of +destruction. Having fashioned a dart out of a +branch of the innocent shrub, Loki persuaded +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span> +Hodur, the blind brother of Baldur, to hurl the +weapon at his brother in sport, the innocent child +believing that this wood, as all other, was charmed. +The arrow pierced Baldur to the heart, killing him, +and causing universal mourning among the gods. +Among the demons were Skretti, who has left his +name to many a haunted rock in Norway, and +Niki, who is a terrible water demon, still dreaded +by the ignorant folk in the mountains. Each year +he demands victims and carries off the children +who stray within his power. Our familiar nursery +friends Jack and Jill are descendants of Hjuki and +Bil, the ebbing and flowing tides, the tumbling +crests of which, breaking one over another as the +waves wash the shore, are rather aptly described in +the nursery rhyme.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i19" id="i19"></a> +<img src="images/i020.jpg" width="475" height="650" alt="SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAIN AT SUNDALSOREN" /> +<p class="caption">SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAIN AT SUNDALSOREN</p> +</div> + +<p class="center p6 b1">ON THE FJORDS</p> + +<p class="center p6">CHAPTER III +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">ON THE FJORDS</p> + +<p class="p2">We were awakened rather roughly next morning. +At an early hour two steamers landed at Næs, and +a stream of tourists emerged. For two hours +vehicles of all sorts filed past our hotel. They +took the drive we had taken in solitude and +moonlight the previous evening, and by the time +the last carriage of the goers passed out of sight +the first carriole of the comers-back was visible. +Our dream was ended. We fled the Romsdal, +thanking a merciful chance which, at least for a +time and for our first impression, had given us the +Romsdal in its most ideal beauty.</p> + +<p>Moonlight also was it when we left on an almost +passengerless steamer, which took us up the glorious +fjord back to Molde. Here we passed another +week to our profit and satisfaction. Some interesting +old wooden buildings on the water, about to +be pulled down, provided subjects for Nico's brush, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> +and I wandered about and admired, peaceful in the +consciousness that when Nature for a time should +cease to suffice me I had in reserve a resource—the +hotel library consisted of a sixteen-volume +History of England and a few odd volumes of an +Encyclopædia!</p> + +<p>In an old book on Norway which I came across, +the author mentions a visit he made to a little +village near a river which he calls Osterthal. It +was rather an involuntary visit: they had lost +their way.—"We came to a minister's house, +whose son's wedding was being celebrated. It was +full of people of all descriptions, forming a droll +caricature scene. [At the date this was written all +the country-folk would be in national costume.] +Our effects were brought in by the multitude +without our paying any attention to them; the +parson's silver plate was lying about in every +direction, his watches hung in every room. [The +author mentions this apparent plenitude of watches +on several occasions, as giving a sign of prosperity.] +A hundred persons at least were present of the +poorest sort, eating and drinking in every room of +the house, yet such is the honesty of the population +that everything was safe. Our host received us +most generously, and would accept of no reward; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> +he was even seriously displeased that we presented +his daughter with a couple of ducats, because she +would load us with bread and other provisions. +We spent the night in the utmost conviviality, and +proceeded the next day over waste mountains and +marshes on foot, till we crossed the frontier and +arrived at Lerma."</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i20" id="i20"></a> +<img src="images/i021.jpg" width="479" height="650" alt="OLD WAREHOUSE AND BOATS, MOLDE" /> +<p class="caption">OLD WAREHOUSE AND BOATS, MOLDE</p> +</div> + +<p>Later we read that in one place they were indeed +most hospitable and caught fish enough to feed the +family for eight days. What joy!</p> + +<p>In another place he tells us that the bread, +"generally made of the rind of trees, was miserable."</p> + +<p>Again: "Bonaparte is the common theme of +the Norwegians. In no country is such praise +lavished on him as in this, where his power is +only felt in undesigningly promoting the country's +advantage—from this standpoint the Norwegians +admire him and calmly survey the convulsions +around them."</p> + +<p>It is interesting to observe that at this date the +writer gives the population of Norway as being +under a million; now it is considerably over two +millions. He remarks that the women, though +strong, robust, and generally over six feet in +height, are sadly wanting in feminine charms. In +our days they have changed. We may suppose +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> +from practical experience that what the Norwegian +women have lost in stature they have gained in +beauty. The number of pretty women is well +above the average.</p> + +<p>In the fulness of time we left Molde by steamer, +and so southwards along the coast, stopping for a +few hours at the ruins of Aalesund, the thriving +little town that was entirely burnt down in January +1904. Of the twelve thousand inhabitants who +were almost all bereft of house and home, only +one lost her life, and that through rashness. She +was an old woman who, finding she had forgotten +some cherished possession, insisted on entering the +burning house to recover it. At least, this is +what was told me by an inhabitant of the place; +and I take it to be correct, for the Norwegians +of to-day are as honest and trustworthy as were +their ancestors at the beginning of last century.</p> + +<p>We landed on this island of ruins and climbed +the pretty hill which overlooks the town. Thence +we obtained a magnificent view over the sea, and +were able to realise the complete and terrible +desolation wrought by the fire. At the time of this +disaster Nico was in Norway, and the whole country +rang with the praises of the Emperor William +of Germany, whose immediate and practical +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> +generosity was a theme for the warmest recognition. +To judge from all we heard in different +parts of the country, it would appear that he has +won the heart of Norway, and has made himself +immensely popular with the people.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i21" id="i21"></a> +<img src="images/i022.jpg" width="650" height="479" alt="MOUNTAINS AND FJORD FACING MOLDE" /> +<p class="caption">MOUNTAINS AND FJORD FACING MOLDE</p> +</div> + +<p>The ancestor of our King William the Conqueror +gives his name to a castle not far south of Aalesund. +He was called Rollo the Walker, because he was +so tall and heavy that no horse could be found +strong enough to carry him. He conquered parts +of France, and founded the Duchy of Normandy.</p> + +<p>As far as I remember, from Aalesund south the +steamer behaved in such a way that we thought it +would be as well to leave it for a while, and we +landed as soon as was possible at a charmingly +situated island called Moldöen. For various +reasons, the place was without a quay. In torrents +of rain and buffeted by the gale, we scrambled off +the steamer on to a flat-bottomed boat, and were +rowed to the island.</p> + +<p>What a dreary little place it seemed! Even +though we had strawberries and cream at tea, +and even though the best room was furnished +with two beautiful bouquets of wax flowers under +glass, the rain beat down such spirits as we might +have had, and we went to bed disconsolate and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span> +cold. The beds were extraordinarily uncomfortable. +I tried three of the four in my small +room, and stayed in the third in despair. I awoke +to find the sun pouring into the room, and the +strains of "Rule, Britannia" filling the house with +gramophonic sound. We got up and dressed to +the tunes of the "Marseillaise" and "Willie, we +have missed you"; ate our breakfast to a popular +cake-walk; and proceeded to investigate. It +turned out that the hospitality of the house, which +we had deemed ours alone, was shared by a commercial +traveller. Steamer-bound there for two +days, he carried about with him for use on such +occasions five phones of different kinds. As far as +we could discover, he made Moldöen a centre from +which he radiated to various islands, bearing with +him on his outgoings and incomings one or two of +the instruments. He entertained us all day long +with disquisitions on the advantages of this one and +the disadvantages of that, with practical examples. +This was a labour of love, for he "travelled" in +machinery. He had lived for many years in +America. He had a wife and family in Christiania, +whom he was in the habit of seeing for not more +than a week in the year. When we left the island +he left too, and endeavoured to get me a berth on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span> +a southward-bound steamer which had about a +dozen berths and fifty or sixty passengers. He +was not successful, and we all sat up on deck; +but I have a kindly memory of him for his excellent +intentions and his music.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i22" id="i22"></a> +<img src="images/i023.jpg" width="650" height="476" alt="MOLDÖEN" /> +<p class="caption">MOLDÖEN</p> +</div> + +<p>While we were on the island I saw several +reindeer on the mountains opposite.</p> + +<p>We had intended to travel from Moldöen along +the Sogne Fjord; but, finding it impossible to +control the steamers coming from the north, we +were obliged to postpone our visit to these celebrated +parts. A friend who was staying at +Balholm in the 'eighties related to me how one +fine day, when they were boating on the fjord, +they saw a whale. All the craft on the water +scuttled for their lives, and the whale, after creating +much excitement, quietly made its way back +to the open and was seen no more.</p> + +<p>We arrived at Bergen in pouring rain. Surrounded +as this town is by high mountains, which, +while protecting her from the extreme violence of +the storms, attract and imprison the clouds, it has +rarely a rainless day. We stayed for three weeks.</p> + +<p>Bergen, which is still one of the most important +ports of Scandinavia, has had an interesting commercial +history. It began its growth in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> +eleventh century, and its importance may be +judged by the fact that in 1302 a decree fixed the +number of its dock labourers at two hundred. In +these centuries several commercial treaties were +concluded between Norway and various Powers. +Among others is still extant an agreement between +England and Norway. A German body known +as the Hanseatic League, recognising the great +commercial importance of such a town as Bergen, +began in the thirteenth century to obtain a footing +there. Until their arrival the Norwegian trade +was almost confined to the summer months. The +first step taken by the Hansards was to struggle +to establish themselves during the winter. The +Norwegians strove for a long time to prevent this, +and as late as 1300, it appears, the number of +Germans wintering at Bergen was inconsiderable. +Later in that century the Hansards instituted a +factory in the town; and, aided by three visitations +of the plague, which reduced the population of +Norway, and by extensive privileges granted to +them by Magnus Kagaboter, which rendered it +almost impossible for the Norwegians to carry on +an independent trade, they arrived at practically +controlling all the commerce of the country, and in +other respects held the trump cards in their own +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span> +hands. As they increased in power, these foreigners +became domineering, in Bergen especially, where +they committed acts of aggression and violence +against the Norwegian population. The native +merchants in the various ports made a stubborn +and vindictive resistance; but the Germans were +there in such numbers that when at last the Norse +efforts were crowned with success and the +foreigners to some extent driven out, these +towns found themselves much reduced in strength. +Bergen, however, aided by her enormous fishing +trade, continued to be the most important commercial +town, and the Hanseatic population +struggled hard to keep the supremacy which they +had enjoyed. During the seventeenth century the +Thirty Years' War weakened them in their own +country, and the growing supremacy of the Dutch +fleet was another influence against them. It was +not until the middle of the eighteenth century, +however, that the German factory entirely ceased. +Even now the houses of the Hanseatic quarter are +only beginning to be pulled down. When we +were in Bergen we watched the process of destruction, +and admired the immense strength of the +foundations of enormous piles on which the old +Germans built their dwelling-places and storehouses. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span> +In the quarter there is an interesting +museum, containing many Hanseatic relics, +including much domestic furniture.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i23" id="i23"></a> +<img src="images/i024.jpg" width="478" height="650" alt="BERGEN" /> +<p class="caption">BERGEN</p> +</div> + +<p>To-day, with its trade and its immense influx of +visitors to the country, Bergen presents an +animated sight. One of my favourite haunts +during solitary wanderings was the fish-market. On +two days of the week—Wednesday and Saturday, +I believe—if one gets there early enough, the little +quay is crowded with amusing folk, the solemn +fishermen from the islands, who bring their spoil to +be disposed of to the best advantage, and the shrewd +becapped fishwives, determined on not giving an ore +beyond the lowest possible price. It is delightful to +listen to their rapid speech with its quaint inflections. +Some of the women wear charming starched white +caps like those of Sisters of Charity, and others +tightly-fitting black or blue bonnets with little +frills relieving their austerity. Here and there, under +a flight of stone steps or built like a niche in a +blank wall, one catches a glimpse of a tiny stall +where twisted cakes containing much spice are +sold, or of the wooden boxes of varying sizes and +prices which the Norwegians use where we +use baskets and bags. Some are plain, some +ornamented with poker work, and others more +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span> +or less elaborately painted in the brilliant colours +and the conventional flower-designs beloved of the +Norsemen and the tourist. The Norsemen employ +the boxes in every size, and for every purpose, +from the big receptacle which contains the whole +outfit of a young man or maid starting in life to +the tiny five-ore box which holds little Ragna's ball +of cotton and her jointed crotchet-hook.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i24" id="i24"></a> +<img src="images/i025.jpg" width="471" height="650" alt="A FAIR MAIDEN OF NORTH BERGEN" /> +<p class="caption">A FAIR MAIDEN OF NORTH BERGEN</p> +</div> + +<p>The place is surrounded by seven hills, which we +did not climb, and has <i>en plus</i> a theatre which we +did not visit. We did, however, take ourselves to +a music-hall, which, if it satisfied the Bergenites' +idea of comfort and entertainment, proves them to +be a people of contented mind. That, I am afraid, +is one of the blessings of which I am deprived. In +spite of the seven hills, the Hanseatic remains, and +the rain, I believe I was bored in Bergen. I was +not to interrupt Nico, because he was working +very hard; I could not roam about much while +all my clothes were in a continual state of being +dried; I could scarcely afford to read a book an +hour at one and two kroner apiece; I was quite +destitute; even Satan found no mischief for my +idle hands to do; and I was glad when the money +we were waiting for arrived and we were able to +make our way inland. I am just beginning to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span> +grow rather fond of Bergen, and by the time I see +this grumbling in print I daresay I shall wish to +take back all I have written in any way derogatory +to the place.</p> + +<p>We left in the middle of the night, going by +steamer the whole way to Odde in preference to +taking train to a place called Voss—a remarkable +railway journey through grand and varied scenery, +the track being almost entirely hewn out of solid +rock. There are no fewer than fifty-five tunnels +between Voss and Bergen. However, we contented +ourselves with that old-established means +of transit, the fjord steamer—in this case a biggish +vessel, though without sleeping accommodation +beyond the smoking-room and a ladies' small +room on deck. Fortunately, there were only two +feminine passengers. I was one. The other was an +American girl who, making a European tour with +the necessary aunts, had left them in luxury and +comfort in Berlin while she made a carriole journey +over Norway. At the time we met on the steamer +she was beginning to regret her persistence, and +we were both glad of each other's company until +she left the country to join her relations.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i25" id="i25"></a> +<img src="images/i026.jpg" width="650" height="474" alt="BERGEN BOATS AND WAREHOUSES" /> +<p class="caption">BERGEN BOATS AND WAREHOUSES</p> +</div> + +<p>In the morning, drawing the curtains of our +cabin, we beheld the glorious scenery of the far-famed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span> +Hardanger Fjord. We breakfasted with +good appetite on biscuits, delicious prawns, and +excellent chocolate. I do not know if the menu +sounds tempting; but the coffee left much to be +desired, and by that time we had grown accustomed +to stranger mixtures than shell-fish and +chocolate. The weather was magnificent, and +thus, though it was rather late in the year, we +enjoyed all the pleasure offered by Nature to visitors +of this delightful arm of the sea without the disadvantages +of mosquitoes and crowds experienced +by those tourists who pay their homage of +admiration in the usual season. We sat on deck +the whole morning, enjoying the wonderful panorama +that unfolded itself before us at every turn +of the fjord. As the steamer twisted in and out +we noticed that the fjord was generally edged with +a narrow band of fertile, smiling country; immediately +above, the wooded heights rose precipitously, +parted here and there by silver torrents that poured +foaming over the rocks into the fjord. Occasionally, +as we passed close by these cascades, the spray +they threw off caught the sun's rays and showed for +a moment a wonder of all the imaginable beauty of +the commingling of the diamond with the rainbow. +High above were the snow-crowned mountains and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span> +the blue whiteness of glaciers. What a wonderful +country! It seems sometimes that Nature is too +prodigal. Where an hour of such beauty leaves +one overwhelmed with marvel and delight, days +and weeks of a panorama ever increasing in splendour +dull the senses and—dare I say it?—almost +satiate.</p> + +<p>Late in the afternoon we stopped at a small +station to pick up a few passengers who had chosen +to go so far by rail and carriole, and my American +friend was much pleased to recognise two young +scions of French nobility, whose titles she had read +on her journey from Molde to Bergen, when most +of the passengers were invisible through illness. +She was convinced that Dr. Conan Doyle had been +her neighbour at table, and she begged me to find +out if he had been in Norway during the summer. +She had a wonderful gift of enthusiasm, and did +our rather jaded spirits a great deal of good by +that intense keenness which is characteristic of +her race.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i26" id="i26"></a> +<img src="images/i027.jpg" width="471" height="650" alt="VÆFOS, HILDAL, HARDANGER" /> +<p class="caption">VÆFOS, HILDAL, HARDANGER</p> +</div> + +<p>After dinner we came again on deck, to find the +moon pouring her soft light over all and imparting +to the earth a romantic illusiveness. However, it +was also exceedingly cold, and we retired early, +Nico to smoke and doze, and I with our American +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span> +to discuss the war between North and South and +other important matters; of course, we discovered +friends in common. All through the nights one +passes on these fjord steamers one is constantly +aroused by weird bumpings and stampings, and we +had learnt from previous experience that this was +due to the stoppage of the steamer at different +stations to pick up and deliver cargoes. About +eleven o'clock on this particular night, the noises +were of such an extraordinary character, and +seemed to last so long, that we put on our big coats +and went out on the deck to explore. By the +light of two small lamps a herd of fifty cows was +being embarked. Some of them protested vigorously +against stepping on to the thin plank bridging +the water between them and the boat. The +whole business was tiresome and lengthy. At last +a band was improvised to pass round the animals' +bodies; one by one they were hauled up, willy-nilly, +by the crane and pulley, and dropped into +their allotted quarters.</p> + +<p>An hour or two later we were startled from our +sleep. The scene was reversed, and the cattle were +landed at their destination.</p> + +<p>About four o'clock we were again disturbed by +the running backwards and forwards of many feet. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> +When the steamer settled into silence, we dropped +off to sleep, too quickly to discover that all motion +had ceased and that we were at a standstill. We +were not shipwrecked; nor had we met with any +untoward accident. We had arrived, and, though +most of the passengers had left the boat and +finished their night in more comfortable quarters, +we slept on in blissful ignorance until after eight +o'clock, when Nico came to inform us that all our +baggage was at the hotel and breakfast ordered.</p> + +<p>We dressed with alacrity, and made our way to +the enormous hotel of Odde, which is about the +most popular resort of the tourist in Norway, +though when we were there late in August it was +without guests. We breakfasted in a lofty room, +and noticed that the waitresses, who are famed for +their allegiance to Norwegian costume, had relinquished +it with their hopes of other foreign guests, +and were soberly dressed in black. The day after +our departure the proprietor and his family left the +place, and caught us up when we finally rested at +Dalen. I wonder if Norway is glad or sorry when +the enthusiastic but destroying tourist ceases for +nine months to take up his abode within her gates?</p> + +<p class="p6 center b1">MINOR ROMANTIC EPISODES</p> + +<p class="p6 center">CHAPTER IV<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">MINOR ROMANTIC EPISODES</p> + +<p class="p2">From Odde we returned to our old friend the +stolkjærre, and the American girl took a carriole. +In this manner we had a little variety, for we +changed places now and then. Both vehicles +belonged to one man, who drove with us all the +way, putting up when we did. This prevented the +nuisance of continual change of horses and conveyance. +The driver assured us that the carriole +had been used by the German Emperor. I believe +that in the season a great point is made of providing +every stranger with <i>the</i> carriole: hundreds are so +honoured. Well, the Kaiser Wilhelm is a wonderful +man, and he would be rash who should say, +"This even the Emperor cannot do." To explain +his frequent presence here, a story must be told. +A few years ago, a young German lieutenant, +riding down the steep road not far from the +Laatefos on his bicycle, swerved from the straight +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> +course, and was hurled into the raging waters +beside which runs the road. The incident is +supposed to have been witnessed by a child and +an old man, and a few weeks afterwards the poor +victim's body, torn by the rocks beyond all recognition, +was found at some distance from the spot +where the disaster happened. The Emperor, with +two hundred men, arrived to search for the body, +and a stone to the soldier's memory has been +erected by his Imperial Majesty. There is another +story on the subject, which is only whispered; but +our romantic friend seized upon it with eagerness, +and wove a yarn of possibilities and improbabilities, +of which she persists in believing the hero to be +alive.</p> + +<p>On our right hand as we drove in procession +from Odde, preceded by the carriage and pair of +the French nobility, lay the Buar glacier. It was +of a wonderful green which we had not before seen, +inasmuch as many of the glaciers we had passed +were almost covered with snow and débris, which +concealed their colour. The road took us for some +way beside a charming lake; after this we passed +several beautiful waterfalls, the spray from one of +which was so considerable that the road beside it +was converted into a pond, and in the moment we +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span> +took to pass through it our clothes were made +quite wet.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i27" id="i27"></a> +<img src="images/i028.jpg" width="321" height="650" alt="A HARDANGER COUNTRY GIRL" /> +<p class="caption">A HARDANGER COUNTRY GIRL</p> +</div> + +<p>At Seljestad we rested, and then drove zig-zag +uphill, or, rather, our horses walked zig-zag, and +we, on foot, cut across the winding road, and +reached the top of the hill without much effort +long before our horses were in sight. We were +three thousand four hundred feet above the level +of the sea, and the air was chilly. Matters were +not mended when we drove down the hill: the sun +had gone in, and the late afternoon at that time of +the year is often too cold for enjoyment. Therefore +we stayed awhile at a big hotel at Horre, and +made acquaintance with a very warming drink, +arac punch. After this we had recourse to it +pretty frequently on our cold drives. Our driver +tried to persuade us to stop at Horre; but it was +still daylight, and we all wanted to get on. The +landlady seemed rather chagrined at this obstinacy +and bad taste; but on we drove for another half +hour or so, when we arrived at Roldal. Here we +found most of the hotels closed, and the owners +almost on the point of departure. Also we found +the young Frenchmen, who informed us that <i>they</i> +had ordered supper for 8.30—to consist of trout +and chicken. This, of course, was the supper +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span> +provided for the possible traveller, and of necessity +was our supper too; but one of these boys +apologised for its scantiness, and said he had only +ordered for their party. This was rather a joke, +as, acting on the advice of our driver, we had from +our luncheon-place ordered supper to be ready at +8.30. However, the meal, as far as it went, was +very good. Afterwards we all assembled in the +one small sitting-room still available, and endeavoured +to drink the white spirit which is drunk +all over the country and called "aqua vita." To my +taste it is abominable; but it is exceedingly strong, +and perhaps this is a virtue which carries it far. +We found two old packs of cards; the five of us +played a good many rather ridiculous games, which +amused us vastly, and brought the servants of the +hotel to the door to discover the reason of our +laughter. At breakfast we were all delighted with +the delicious jam made from wild strawberries. +Then we started on a day's drive in good spirits, the +carriage and pair leading. Up, up, and always up, +getting colder and colder by the way; a short rest +at a wayside sæter; a drink of delicious creamy +milk, not possessing, however, the warming +qualities of our arac punch. The tiny masses of +drifted snow which lie among the rocks, neglected +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span> +by the sun, increased in size and volume. Here, +on one of the rocks by the wayside, a big snowball +had been placed, probably by the youths who led +us on. Colder and colder grew the air, until at +last we turned a corner, and saw before us a huge +mass of dirty snow. It was impossible to plough +this, or otherwise to get rid of it: so we drove +through a tunnel hollowed out in the snow. +This was the coldest place we reached. Gradually +we descended and got into a less icy atmosphere. +All the same, we were exceedingly glad to get out +and warm ourselves at a little farm, where we +drank port, and I used what powers of persuasion +I possess in the endeavour to render myself the +owner of a particularly attractive ironing-board, +wielded by a blob of wood that was the most +delightful attempt at reproduction of a horse that +I have ever seen. Neither offers of money nor +blandishments had the desired effect, and I was +obliged to leave the longed-for object behind me.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i28" id="i28"></a> +<img src="images/i029.jpg" width="650" height="475" alt="SKJÆGGEDALSFOS, HARDANGER" /> +<p class="caption">SKJÆGGEDALSFOS, HARDANGER</p> +</div> + +<p>Cheered and fortified by our wine, we drove on +to the spot appointed for our luncheon. Haukelidsæter +is an enormous hotel under Government +control. Prices are reasonable; they are regulated +by the Norwegian Tourist Club. The immense +dining-room is pleasing, being simple in design +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span> +and embellishment. Opposite the hotel is a +building in the style of the much-admired old +storehouses. It was closed while we were there; +but in the season it provides excellent sleeping +accommodation.</p> + +<p>Here we fell in again with our fellow-travellers +and their servant, and we ate very gaily together of +tough stewed goat and excellent cream pudding.</p> + +<p>We drove on, and arrived rather early at a very +pleasant little station, of which, however, I have +forgotten the name. It was only about five o'clock, +and in Norway there is nothing satisfactory to eat +between dinner at two and supper at eight or nine: +so I bought half a kilogramme of chocolate, and +asked for milk and cream. I had some difficulty +in getting a saucepan; but eventually I discovered +the kitchen and helped myself, to the amusement +of the scarlet-coated maid, who was already making +preparations for our supper. I made the chocolate; +and we all drank it, after our fish supper, with the +remainder of a bottle of a very sweet and cloying +liqueur called Augustine, which we had bought at +Haukelidsæter by general subscription, in place of +the arac punch, which was not attainable. The +American girl and I left Augustine severely alone.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i29" id="i29"></a> +<img src="images/i030.jpg" width="471" height="650" alt="HARDANGER HEADDRESS" /> +<p class="caption">HARDANGER HEADDRESS</p> +</div> + +<p>Next morning I bought with much joy an old +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span> +and beautifully carved wooden box. I was very +glad to give fifteen kroner for it; but, deeply +attached to it as I was, we went off without it. I +remembered it before we had gone very far, and +raced back alone in the carriole. Then I caught +the others up. Our driver expressing great +curiosity as to my parcel, I showed it to him. +He wanted to know the price, and I told him, +rather proud of myself at having made a good +bargain, as I thought; but he laughed discreetly, +and informed us that in the depth of winter, +when money is scarce among the peasants, their +treasures are bought up by men, going round for +the purpose, for next to nothing. Thus the +summer tourist always pays heavily. If he gets +things from the peasants themselves, they have to +"get even" with the forced sales of the winter. +As for the town antiquaries, the price they ask for +their treasures would make a Dutch peasant blush, +and anyone who has endeavoured to obtain the +object of his fancy from such an one will realise +that this is no light task.</p> + +<p>That day we drove through mysterious pine-woods, +which kept from us all the warming rays of +the sun. Before we reached the forest the road +followed the course of a river, and then, leaving +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span> +that, ran beside a lake. Most of the way we +walked, to warm ourselves. It was late in the year +for this route, and we were alone on the road—at +any rate, for this portion of it. Later we met +strings of peasants coming from a fair.</p> + +<p>We had luncheon at a little place which was +quite off its head with business. There had been a +cattle fair some distance off, and all those interested +were on the road, making their way home. During +our drive that afternoon we met some of the prize-winners, +horses and cattle decorated with ribbon +rosettes of many colours, and carrying their +certificates suspended from their horns or from +their necks. The placing of the rosettes was +amusing. In most cases the animals were attended +by a handmaiden in a dark skirt, a black velvet +bodice elaborately embroidered in coloured silk, +and a fringed kerchief tied gracefully round the +head, and falling down the back with the long +thick hair. Most of the peasant women in Telemarken, +of whatever age, wear their hair loose, as +indeed do the poorer country women all over +Norway. However, the prize cows were making +their way but slowly, grazing unchidden on invisible +food among the fallen leaves by the wayside; +doubtless the women were the wives and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span> +daughters of the burly farmers whom we had left +enjoying their dinner at our last halting-place.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i30" id="i30"></a> +<img src="images/i031.jpg" width="650" height="473" alt="RIVER AT HAUKELI" /> +<p class="caption">RIVER AT HAUKELI</p> +</div> + +<p>Somewhere that day we passed a turning in the +road that, had we taken it, would have led us to +the wonderful Rjukan Fos, of which romantic +stories have been told. Many of the most beautiful +spots in Norway are rendered more interesting by +various legends connected with them. One cannot +guarantee their accuracy; but they are very +welcome. I quote this tragic romance as a dark +gem set in the Rjukan Fos.</p> + +<p>"Near the Rjukan Fos there is a path over the +mountain called the 'Marie Stige,' on the brink of +the precipice of the famous fall, which even at +this day the traveller treads with fear, and which +was discovered by a young maiden in the courage +of love. It was by this path that the beautiful Marie +of Westfjorddalen went with light and fearless +step to meet the friend of her childhood, Ejestein +Halfoordsen. But the avarice of her father +separated them, and Marie's tears and prayers +prevailed upon her lover to fly, to escape the plot +formed by a treacherous rival against his life. +Years passed, and Marie was firm in her constancy. +Her father died; Ejestein had by his +valour and nobleness made his former enemy his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span> +friend, and after their long separation the lovers +were to meet again. Ejestein hastened by the +shortest way, the Marie Stige, to meet his beloved. +Long had she watched for him; she saw him +coming, and his name burst from her with a +joyful cry. He saw and rushed to meet her, but +fell, and the Rjukan whirled him into its foaming +depths. For many years after this a pale form, +in whose beautiful eyes a quiet madness lay, +wandered daily on the Marie Stige, and seemed +to talk with someone in the abyss below. Here +she walked until a merciful voice summoned her +to go and rest in the arms of her beloved."</p> + +<p>All the way to Dalen our drive was brightened +by the rosetted cows, making their way up the hill +which we descended. The mountain rose sheer +on our right, two thousand feet above the road; +on our left, awe-inspiring precipices made us hold +our breath, as every now and then we were obliged +to pass a vehicle coming the opposite way. The +young Frenchmen in the carriage and pair were +driving immediately before us. Suddenly there +was a crash, and down fell one of their horses. +The outer wheels of the vehicle were over the +edge of the precipice. For one terrible second it +was as if an awful tragedy could not be averted. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span> +The splendid little pony on the mountain-side held +good his ground, and my driver, by sheer bodily +force, half lifted, half pushed, the carriage from its +dangerous position. The three occupants had +jumped out; but the driver, almost paralysed +with terror, was still sitting on his box. The +pony had broken the shaft on which it had fallen, +but, fortunately, had done itself no harm. Between +them the men patched it up as well as they could, +and we proceeded. We were not very far from +Dalen, however, and the young men elected to +walk the rest of the journey. We kept behind +the carriage, in fear of further accidents, and +went along so slowly that the walkers arrived +some time before we did.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i31" id="i31"></a> +<img src="images/i032.jpg" width="470" height="650" alt="A PEASANT OF SÆTERSDALEN" /> +<p class="caption">A PEASANT OF SÆTERSDALEN</p> +</div> + +<p>The big hotel at Dalen was closed, and we all +took rooms in a smaller place almost opposite, +which proved one of the most comfortable resting-places +we had come across in Norway. Indeed, +that very evening Nico and I made up our minds +to stay there for some time, and so turned our +supper into a farewell meal. In celebration, we +drank one another's health in exceedingly sweet +champagne, and then again in small glasses of arac +punch, in which we invited our host and his wife +to join us, thus establishing a friendly feeling of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span> +which Nico and I reaped the benefit during our +stay.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i32" id="i32"></a> +<img src="images/i033.jpg" width="476" height="650" alt="ESPELANDSFOS, HARDANGER." /> +<p class="caption">ESPELANDSFOS, HARDANGER.</p> +</div> + +<p>The American girl and the French youths with +their valet were travelling together as far as +Christiania: so we bade them good-bye before +we retired for the night. Nico, in the fulness of +his heart, announced his intention of getting up +next morning at five, to see them off. He went +to the length of asking the maid to call him when +she should awake the travellers; and in the dark +hours of the morning, when, following her directions, +she awoke only me, I finished her work, and pointed +out to Nico the necessity of fulfilling rash promises. +My arguments were strong, and Nico got up and +saw the party off. He was exceedingly pleased +with himself when he came back.</p> + +<p>We stayed for some time at Dalen. We were +well fed, well lodged, and smiled upon by charming +waitresses in their red sleeveless bodices and white +frilled blouses; besides, we were favoured with +most glorious weather. Nico worked hard, and +found delightful models in the farmer's two +daughters—one a lovely Madonna-like girl of +fifteen, and the other a curly-haired little pickle +of three. I passed most of the day hours basking +in the sun and reading anything I could find, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span> +which resolved itself into a few numbers of <i>Cook's +Tourist Gazette</i> and three numbers of Dowie's +paper from Zion City, U.S.A. The American +journals contained many violent remarks about +the prophet's reception in England; but in one +number I read he appeared to pity us for our +denseness. This literature, advertisements and +all, did not entertain me long, and I went to the +shop which was part of the premises to see if there +was anything I could buy. I found only a very +ordinary assortment of German hand-made goods, +together with a strongly smelling selection of +various food-stuffs, and one or two drawers full +of mixed sweets for the entertainment of the +youth of the village. So I unpicked a blouse +of my own, and sewed it together again by hand, +and that very neatly. Then I looked through the +papers again, and found that I had missed a few +words in the course of several of the sheets, stating +who was the printer of these effusions. One night +a party of English folk arrived, travelling from +Christiania to Odde, at forbidden speed: that is +to say, by rising early and travelling until late +they were making in two days a journey which is +fixed by law as taking three. I persuaded Nico +to go to them after supper and to ask them if they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span> +had anything to read which they would exchange +for the books I had carried with me and read +three or four times. With great joy he brought +back two magazines and a book.</p> + +<p>Another day I hired a carriole and the farmer's +son to drive me to the Ravngju (the Raven's Abyss), +which is a rock hanging over a precipice at a height +of fourteen hundred feet, above a dashing river. I +learnt from my guide-book that the draught of air +is so strong that if one throws a hat over the +precipice it will be refused by the abyss and blown +back. I tried the experiment with my own head-gear, +for which, fortunately, I had no respect and +but little affection. Contrariwise, the Raven's +Abyss changed its reputed tactics and stuck to it; +at any rate, I never saw it again, and I drove home +bareheaded.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i33" id="i33"></a> +<img src="images/i034.jpg" width="478" height="650" alt="A BOY OF SÆTERSDALEN." /> +<p class="caption">A BOY OF SÆTERSDALEN.</p> +</div> + +<p>During our stay here I discovered with great +difficulty a few more facts about the Norwegian +peasants' poetic and very interesting superstitions. +The little gnomes, in whom all believe, often attach +themselves to special farms. If any of the horses +or cattle appear to thrive much better than their +fellows, the folk will explain it, entirely to their own +satisfaction, by saying that such beasts are the +favourites of the pixies, who steal fodder from the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span> +other mangers to feed the animals in which they +have chosen to interest themselves. Sometimes +the gnomes devote themselves, by petty vexations, +to worrying the life out of the people to whom they +bear malice. The milk turns sour, the butter +is rancid, the cattle pine away; and all from +no apparent cause. It is told that one such +haunted family at last made up their minds to +move very secretly, and thought to leave the fairy +cause of all their trouble behind them. As the +last cartload of belongings left the farm and the +people were congratulating themselves that they +would get away without being discovered by the +malicious familiar, he popped his head out of an +empty barrel, and piping, "Oho! We are moving +to-day!" jumped on the cart and followed them to +their new home.</p> + +<p>The trolls are big giants who live in the mountains +and are very rarely seen. These spirits always +dwell in the seventh mountain visible in the blue +distance. Thus, of course, they can never be +approached by those who set out in search of them; +but in their fastness they keep beautiful maidens +stolen from earthly homes.</p> + +<p>The huldra also is an inhabitant of the heights. +She is a witch who takes the form of a lovely +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span> +woman, and meeting humans in the woods she +lures them to follow her. Her dwelling is in the +mountains, which she opens with a magic word. +Inside is a gorgeous palace, filled with immense +riches, and having dining-rooms containing +splendidly decorated tables laden with all the +food a Norwegian enjoys most, served on golden +dishes. He who eats of these things is thenceforth +in the power of the huldra. Occasionally he wins +free; but never afterwards is he as he was.</p> + +<p>In the country the folks speak of idiots and +madmen as being "mountain-taken," believing that +these are victims of the huldra's wiles.</p> + +<p>If, however, the involuntary guest refuses to +partake of the magic dishes in the mountain passes, +he sees before his eyes the dishes of exquisite food +turning to pine cones and slabs of earth, while the +huldra loses her fascination, and can no longer hide +from him the cow's tail by which she is to be +known, nor can she keep him prisoner any longer. +Without knowing how, he finds himself back in +the woods on the mountain-side; and he cannot +discover the entrance to the fairy palace.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i34" id="i34"></a> +<img src="images/i035.jpg" width="650" height="476" alt="SUNDALSFJORD" /> +<p class="caption">SUNDALSFJORD</p> +</div> + +<p>At Christmas, and indeed during all festivities, +these various unseen powers are propitiated by +offerings of food and drink, which are placed outside +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span> +the farm, and invariably disappear. I should +not like to swear that no agency but magic is +responsible.</p> + +<p>At several of the trees on the land of the farm +hotel at Dalen were fixed little shelters, each +having a small entrance and a gabled roof. These, +we surmised correctly, were for the birds. The +Norwegians are very fond of the small songsters, +and in many districts it is forbidden to destroy +them. This delighted us, the more, perhaps, that +we had spent the previous spring in Italy, where +heartless massacre of birds is carried on, one of the +Italian's favourite dishes being half a dozen or a +dozen tiny ones served on polenta. The sportsmen +who indulge in the hunt sell the birds strung +together—a thread through their heads—by the +dozen. In Norway the birds are encouraged and +petted, and in the winter fed. At Christmas time +every one buys sheaves of oats or other cereals still +in the ear, and hangs them outside the windows, +or, fastening the bundles on poles, erects them in +gardens and in the open spaces of the cities. He +would be poor indeed who had not a few <i>ore</i> to +devote to the entertainment of the little feathered +friends at this season of universal joy.</p> + +<p>Poverty as we know it in England is scarcely to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> +be found in Norway, and, on the other hand, riches +as understood by a Norwegian living in his own +country would by no means satisfy an aspirant for +wealth on this side of the North Sea. Statistical +information concerning income and property shows +but a small difference between the principal classes. +The income of the employer often does not exceed +the wages of the average workman. A very slight +change in the balance would bring many employers +into the ranks of the employed. This happy +country, though under the government of a Limited +Monarchy, seems to fulfil the dreams of at least +the reasonable Socialist. It has no nobility with +political or economic principles, no great capitalists, +no immense estates. The difficulty of earning a +livelihood in the inclement climate and on the +stormy coast calls for energy and endurance, and +accustoms the worker to self-restraint. More than +half the population own deposits in the Savings +Banks. The spirit of equality is noticeable to the +most casual observer. The proprietor of the station +where you pass your nights is absolutely the equal +of the guest, who avails himself of the house's +hospitality for his own convenience, and apparently +not for the profit of the owner. The servants who +wait on one are pleasant and willing, working for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span> +their living, it is true, but showing none of the +servility largely dependent on tips which is the +characteristic of their class in other countries. If +a <i>pourboire</i> is given, small or large, it is accepted +invariably with a frank handshake; in some cases +it is difficult to induce its acceptance. A Norwegian, +whatever his standing may be, is the equal +of everyone. Politeness on the part of the traveller +is such a necessity that the guide-books mention it. +The domineering tourist will meet with difficulties +and rebuffs.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i35" id="i35"></a> +<img src="images/i036.jpg" width="470" height="650" alt="SÆTERSDALEN GIRL IN NATIONAL COSTUME" /> +<p class="caption">SÆTERSDALEN GIRL IN NATIONAL COSTUME</p> +</div> + +<p class="center p6 b1">MAINLY ABOUT SAINTS</p> + +<p class="center p6">CHAPTER V<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">MAINLY ABOUT SAINTS</p> + +<p class="p2">Nico did a great deal of work in Dalen, finishing +half-completed sketches, and making many figure-drawings. +One of the servants was from Sætersdalen; +and, to pose for Nico, she dressed herself +in her extraordinary costume. In the course of +our wanderings we met with travelling natives of +Sætersdalen—once, under a lucky star, with a +woman taking her little child, a girl of three or +four years old, to a hospital in Christiania. +Between us we persuaded the child to act as model +for an hour or two, so as to give Nico occasion to +transfer her decorative charm to his paper. The +dress for women and girl children alike is a straight +garment of very thick cloth, sustained by +embroidered shoulder-straps. It reaches only a +little below the knee, and is edged by two or three +bands of very thick coloured cloth, which hold +out stiffly the rather solid material of which the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span> +garment is made. Under this they wear a petticoat +made on the same model. A white shirt +covers the arms and neck, and a brightly coloured +knitted belt girdles the middle—I can scarcely call +it the waist—of the wearer. On their hands are +black mittens, embroidered in a traditional pattern +with brightly coloured wools. The head is covered +by a folded handkerchief, and the hair hangs loose +or plaited down the back. The legs are encased in +thick knitted stockings and sensible low shoes. +The men and boys wear trousers that come up to +their shoulders, and odd little round hats. The +district in which they live we were not able to visit, +to my regret. We had left it to the last, intending +to take it on our way home, as the country can +only be approached from Christianssand, a port +touched by the steamers bound from Christiania to +Hull; and at the last moment unforeseen circumstances +compelled us to make our passage home as +speedy as possible. There is a railway which will +take the traveller up the valley as far as Byglandsfjord; +but to appreciate its many charms it is +advisable, and well worth while, to make the +journey by road and water. Beyond this station +the valley has no connection with other routes, +except by rough and sometimes dangerous mountain +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span> +paths. Accommodation for the tourist is +exceedingly rough, and food narrowly limited in +quality and variety. On account of these drawbacks, +the Sætersdalen district must certainly be, +from many points of view, the most interesting +part of Norway. There the traveller will find the +dresses, the customs, and the dwelling-places in much +the same stage as they have been for the last three +hundred years, and—what is always a great attraction +to me and surely not less so to others—there +is the joy of travelling in parts which are as yet +almost unknown, and consequently unspoilt by the +tourist, who must perforce bring in his wake so +many doubtful blessings. For me the people of a +country is that country's greatest charm—not the +townsfolk or the owners and staffs of the big +hotels with their far-spreading influence, but the +unspoilt people of the untravelled parts. In the +summer months parties of people migrate from the +valley and take up their abode in the mountains. +Thus the courageous but too confident traveller +may find himself unable to obtain even such simple +food as bread and milk. It is highly advisable for +the explorer to take with him biscuits, canned food, +and brandy, and to travel with as small a quantity +of baggage as is convenient. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i36" id="i36"></a> +<img src="images/i037.jpg" width="469" height="650" alt="SÆTERSDALEN PEASANT GIRL" /> +<p class="caption">SÆTERSDALEN PEASANT GIRL</p> +</div> + +<p>At the head of the valley it is possible to cross +the mountains which separate Sætersdalen from +Telemarken and to arrive at Dalen, on Lake +Bandak. The peasant inhabitants of Sætersdalen +are of rather a charming primitiveness, and some +of their houses can show wonderful specimens of +quaint and grotesque carving. Included in this +simplicity, however, is an unpleasant and complete +disregard for cleanliness.</p> + +<p>The moment came when, much against our +inclinations, and especially against Nico's wishes, +we were obliged to leave our comfortable quarters +at Dalen. For the last time I basked in the warm +sunshine which had favoured us during our entire +stay; for the last time I retired from the too +warm welcome to the shadowy balcony studio +belonging to my room, which complaisantly looked +north as Nico required. Only this once more +should I drop sticks of chocolate on to the golden +curls of the little Andrea as she came within +range during her eternal roamings over the big +farmyard in search of mischief. No fewer than ten +cats of variegated colours prowled over this area; +they delicately fished and fought for the more +toothsome morsels from the barrel outside the +kitchen window containing all the refuse of food +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span> +stuffs, the eventual emptying of which was to the +advantage of the pigstye. In the middle of this +interesting land was a well. Over it hung, high in +the air, an empty bucket suspended by a chain +from the lighter end of an immense pole. The +pretty cowherd would fill the pail with water to +plenish the tubs from which her charges drank. +Most evenings, in a spirit of wickedness, the +worthy brother of the golden-haired baby would +fill the bucket and leave it standing by the well, +the weight of the water in it keeping it on the +ground. Up would come an unsuspecting cow, +which thirstily would drink the contents. Slowly +she would lift her head from the now empty pail, +which, flying as by magic into the air, would almost +invariably give the bewildered creature a smart +blow on the head. Of course, it did not hurt the +animal; but her expression of startled and grieved +surprise was most amusing. It was one of the +excitements of my days at Dalen to have mild bets +with Nico whether the day's intended victim would +be free of the bucket in time.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i37" id="i37"></a> +<img src="images/i038.jpg" width="650" height="480" alt="MOLDÖEN" /> +<p class="caption">MOLDÖEN</p> +</div> + +<p>The sun went in; the air grew cold; soon +darkness was upon us. This was the proudest +moment of the day. I lit my fire, invariably with +success, with peelings of birch bark that I had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> +sedulously collected during my walks. This last +time all my savings went together—how they +blazed! Then in came the farmer, our host, with +his exceedingly easy bill, including entries for +various delightful painted butter-boxes and three +immense wooden drinking bowls which I had +bought from him. Then followed his worthy wife +and his pretty daughter, bearing a tray on which +was a bottle of arac punch and four glasses—he +wished to drink to us before we went, and so we +clinked the small glasses, and in various words of +various languages expressed that we were pleased +with one another, and almost arranged that the +pretty daughter should come with us to learn +English and to help my nurse to look after my +babies. I have not got little Andrea with me yet; +but I expect that by the time this book is published +she will be in my house, wearing her pretty +national costume, and rejoicing us with her +charming little face, which is reproduced on the +frontispiece of the book.</p> + +<p>Next morning we were obliged to be up by +six. An hour beforehand one of the delightful +serving-maids lit my fire, and our breakfast, including +more arac punch, was brought upstairs. By +and by, in the cold grey morning, we boarded the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span> +little steamer which was to take us through the +series of lakes and canals to Skien, whence it is +possible to go by train to Christiania.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i38" id="i38"></a> +<img src="images/i039.jpg" width="650" height="475" alt="A COTTAGE INTERIOR, TELEMARKEN" /> +<p class="caption">A COTTAGE INTERIOR, TELEMARKEN</p> +</div> + +<p>It was a wonderful day, albeit very long. These +days that one begins at six o'clock seem always of +unnatural length—what should be luncheon time in +the ordinary way is only breakfast time on these +occasions; and, when all the hours are unoccupied, +how delightedly one would welcome bedtime in +the afternoon! However, before we had time to +become very discontented, the sun came out to +cheer us up, and then breakfast was announced, +and after that we began to shake off our drowsy +ill-humours and look about. Our captain was a +good-looking man, quite young, and an excellent +English scholar. He was a great traveller, and +from his talk we gathered that he was not too well +pleased to be passing his days on this little lake +steamer, going backwards and forwards alternately +with another boat; he was rather discontented at +this time, quite the close of the season, when the +English passengers that his soul loved were few +and far between, and his most usual freight a +few peasants, changing at every station, and an +occasional herd of cattle. He pointed out to us on +our right a group of rocks known as "The Monk +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span> +and Lady." I could fancy I did see a resemblance +to two human beings, one kneeling before the +other's uplifted hand, apparently asking for a +blessing. Had I not known the name given to the +group, I might have thought I saw the image of a +guilty being receiving corporal chastisement.</p> + +<p>At the first station we stopped at, the little boat +rolled a good deal, and it was only by clinging to +steadfast objects that the passengers preserved their +balance. Several young men boarded the boat. +Also there joined us two very beautiful women +wearing long coats to cover their best costumes, +their charming head-dress concealing hair hanging +loose down their backs. They were both married +women. Two of the young men had pockets +full of beautiful yellow apples; they ate them +steadily, by the dozen I should say, until the +pockets were empty. I coveted the fruit. When +I am an early riser, it is astonishing how my most +extreme longing is for unattainable apples. At +the next station several children came on board +with baskets of the fruit for sale. Already my +appetite had become fainter; but Nico bought the +stock-in-trade of a person of some three or four +years, and so much occupied was I in watching +the exhibition of the boy's triumph over his less +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span> +fortunate fellows, that I did not notice the piling +up of interest which was going on around me.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i39" id="i39"></a> +<img src="images/i040.jpg" width="481" height="650" alt="A NORWEGIAN GIRL" /> +<p class="caption">A NORWEGIAN GIRL</p> +</div> + +<p>Really it was too much for one stoppage! First, +the apple-sellers, who left us, however, before we +started; next, a man with a foal two or three +weeks old; also a herd of about thirty cattle, tied +up variously on deck, in close proximity to the +passengers; last, but not least, a Sætersdalen +woman, in the full glory of her elaborate and +brightly coloured costume. Walking in the fields +in their own district, the women take off the dark +cloth upper frock which this woman wore, and +work in a grey underfrock made in exactly the +same way. Here was material for heaps of excitement +in our simple lives. When we had sampled +our apples in the little deck-house which was all +the covered accommodation, I left Nico half asleep +and went out to look for adventures. The foal, +with terrified eyes fixed on the water, was +neighing piteously; every now and then a horse +would trot to the edge of the water, apparently +to neigh comfort to the poor little fellow +making his first water journey. Frequently the +boat would give an alarming lurch, and the cattle +would slip helplessly from one side to the other, +stamping and kicking in their efforts to regain +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span> +a steady footing on the slippery deck. Later, at +Nico's suggestion, a board was put up between the +pony and the water, and this seemed to quiet the +poor beast. At the next station the boat gave a +fearful roll, and tipped over to such an extent that +the perfectly smooth water of the lake washed one +side of the deck. We were all rather frightened +for a few seconds. The cattle were in a sprawling, +kicking, terrified mass on the side which leaned +to the water. The passengers struggled to the +opposite side, and held on as best they could. By +some means the steamer righted herself, and off we +started.</p> + +<p>The captain was attentive to us on this trip. I +think he was glad to air his English. He pointed +out, on our right, another curious formation in the +mountains, which he called "St. Olaf's Ship." I +daresay in the time of St. Olaf ships were like +that: so I will not emphasise my ignorance by +criticism.</p> + +<p>St. Olaf's name is found all over the country. +It is well known that he is Norway's greatest saint: +but I daresay his history is not such common +property. Therefore I tell it as our captain on +the steamer told it to me. Here I may say that +there is surely no country in the world where the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span> +average inhabitant has such an exceedingly great +knowledge of histories, national or general.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i40" id="i40"></a> +<img src="images/i041.jpg" width="650" height="480" alt="KJENDALSBRÆ" /> +<p class="caption">KJENDALSBRÆ</p> +</div> + +<p>Olaf Haraldssen was a descendant of Harald +Haarfajer, or "The Fair," who was the first king +to rule the whole of Norway. Harald Haarfajer +flourished in the ninth century, and was one of the +first of the heroic Vikings sung of in sagas. After +Harald the Fair, the most splendid king was Olaf +Trygvasen, who with his many followers harried us +to such an extent that the English sovereign was +obliged to sue for peace. He endeavoured to implant +Christianity among his subjects by sword +and fire, and, after making a heroic defence and +losing nearly all his men, fell mortally wounded +during a battle against the Swedish and Danish +kings. Norway was now in the hands of the two +conquering kings; but they gave up their shares +to a powerful Norwegian earl, who had given them +his aid against King Olaf Trygvasen. The earl +agreed to hold these lands as their vassal. In this +capacity he was obliged to leave his country when +the Danish king called upon him to join in an +invasion of England. He never returned from this +expedition. In 1015 Olaf Haraldssen, another +worthy descendant of Harald the Fair, returning +from a pirating raid, seized the opportunity of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span> +assuming the leadership of the country, determined +to carry out the intention of his noble ancestor, +Olaf Trygvasen. With the help of various petty +kings from the north, he overthrew the dominion +of the earls and their overlords, the Danish and +Swedish kings. He made Trondhjem his capital, +and there he received homage from the lesser +chieftains as king of Norway. In his turn he +enforced Christianity; but on account of the +extreme severity of his policy he alienated many of +his people, who sought the aid of the Danish king +against him. Defeated, Olaf fled to Russia. +After gathering his forces together he endeavoured +to win back his kingdom, but was again beaten. +He was killed at the battle of Stiklestad in 1030. +His body was taken to a place called Nidaros, +and buried on the banks of a river. A year later +his corpse was exhumed, and it was found that +there was no trace of corruption—the face was just +as in life, and the hair and nails had grown. This, +and certain miracles wrought through his intercession, +caused him to be proclaimed a saint. His +body was encased in silver and placed in Trondhjem +Cathedral, where it received great veneration until +the time of the Reformation.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i41" id="i41"></a> +<img src="images/i042.jpg" width="470" height="650" alt=" A TYPICAL NORWEGIAN MAIDEN" /> +<p class="caption"> A TYPICAL NORWEGIAN MAIDEN</p> +</div> + +<p>The history of Norway, with its continual relations +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span> +and dissensions with Sweden and Denmark, +is intensely interesting; but there are such splendid +books on the subject that it would be ridiculous +for me to attempt to introduce more than these +few words into a book which professes to give +merely the superficial impressions of a traveller—exceedingly +interested, it is true, but—having +almost everything to learn about her subject.</p> + +<p>Rather regretfully, we came back from the +eleventh century, for the captain was obliged to +superintend the disembarkation of the cows. We +were rather glad to get rid of them; and they, +poor things, were, I am sure, heartily pleased that +their startling journey was over, and that they +found themselves safely on dry land, with plenty of +space to roam in. The pony we kept with us for a +while, attempting to persuade it to drink milk, +which, however, it refused to consider.</p> + +<p>The luncheon was pork and stewed rhubarb, +served in a very small and stuffy dining cabin. +Nico and I refused it, and regaled ourselves on +a tin of Brand. Soon we entered the wonderful +canal that joins the Bandak Lake to the +Nordsjo Lake, which is connected by another +canal with the head of the Skien Fjord, thus +opening up an inland waterway from the sea at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> +Skien right into the heart of the mountains at +Dalen, the extreme end of Lake Bandak. Lake +Bandak is a hundred and eighty-seven feet higher +than Lake Nordsjo, with which it is connected: +this immense difference is overcome by no fewer +than fourteen locks, the average rise in each lock +being something over thirteen feet. All the locks +are blasted out of solid rock and faced with grey +granite. When we reached the end of this +stupendous triumph of engineering, the effect as +we looked back was overwhelming. The chief +difficulty in construction was a fall of eighty feet, +called the Vrangfos. No bottom could be found +to the gorge, and a massive bridge of granite was +constructed between the two rocky sides, on which +foundation a dam was built. Five of the fourteen +locks are at the Vrangfos, which rages alongside +in impotent fury. This immense work cost the +country three million kroner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i42" id="i42"></a> +<img src="images/i043.jpg" width="477" height="650" alt="A BABY OF TELEMARKEN" /> +<p class="caption">A BABY OF TELEMARKEN</p> +</div> + +<p>At the end of this canal is a rather pleasant little +station, Ulefos, on the Nordsjo Lake; but we were +in a hurry to get to Christiania and civilisation. +We did not get off the boat, but continued on our +way to Skien. We were still chatting with the +captain. On our left in the rocks, he pointed out +to us a yawning gap, ten or twelve feet high. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span> +That cavern, he told us, was used as a chapel, and +dedicated to Saint Michael. He also told us that +it was the tomb of the last Catholic priest in +Norway just after the Reformation. The King of +Denmark, who at that time was also King of +Norway, had decreed that the Catholic religion +should cease to be in both Norway and Denmark. +In Norway the people were all the more against +the fulfilment of this decree as they recognised that +the Danish king wished to enrich himself at the +expense of the Catholic Church. Cunning as well +as force, therefore, was necessary to establish the +Lutheran religion in the country of St. Olaf. The +Catholic priests were banished, and their places +were taken by foreign preachers, who, to deceive +the people, kept up for a long time the external +appearances of Catholicism. Several years after +these primary steps had been taken, a Danish +soldier named Porl, cruel and fanatical, was +appointed preacher to the church of Solum; the +little rock chapel of St. Michael having been +destroyed, the parish of which it was the centre +had been united to that of Solum. Soon Porl +discovered that his parishioners still went in great +numbers to pray in the grotto, and sometimes at +night a mysterious light was seen among the rocks. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> +One autumn evening, returning from Holden in a +boat rowed by three young watermen, Porl beheld +them suddenly cease their rowing, and, throwing +themselves on their knees in the boat, cross themselves. +This act of devotion was performed exactly +opposite St. Michael's Chapel, from which the +mysterious light reflected itself in the lake.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i43" id="i43"></a> +<img src="images/i044.jpg" width="650" height="473" alt="ROMSDALS HORN" /> +<p class="caption">ROMSDALS HORN</p> +</div> + +<p>Furious, Porl ordered them to row him to the +foot of the hilly path which led to the chapel; but +here he met with determined opposition. They +would rather die than obey his wish. He was +therefore obliged to return to Solum, promising +himself a speedy solution of the mystery. In such +a matter he could not trust his parishioners, devoted +as they were to the old religion: so he took into +his service two men from Skien, and ordered them +to keep watch from afar on the grotto of St. +Michael. One night, the eve of St. Michael's +feast, they rushed to him, breathlessly, to announce +that they had seen the mysterious light issuing +from the cave. There was no doubt about it. He +could see it with his own eyes. He took a sword +from the wall to arm himself against the unknown +enemy, and his two spies rowed him to the grotto. +As they got nearer the light became of more +importance. His men took him to the foot of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span> +steep narrow path; but neither threats nor hope +of reward could persuade them, fearing the supernatural, +to accompany him. Filled with anger, he +made his way alone; but at the moment when he +had all but reached the opening to the chapel the +light went out, and there he was between heaven +and earth in the pitch darkness, afraid to take +either one step back or one step forward. Gathering +all his courage, he went forward, and managed +to feel his way into the cave. God alone knew +what awaited him there, and on His name +he called. At the sound, at the far end of +the cave a big stone was moved, and the darkness +was flooded with light. Porl could scarcely +believe his eyes when he saw before him an +altar, and on the altar a crucifix surrounded +by innumerable candles. From this sanctuary +a venerable old man, wearing sacerdotal vestments, +as if about to say Mass, advanced +towards him.</p> + +<p>"You come in the name of God?" said he. +"Come, then, in peace."</p> + +<p>But the preacher, brandishing his sword, fell on +the old priest, crying in anger, "I was right, then! +I guessed that there was still an accursed Papist in +my parish!" +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span></p> + +<p>"You were indeed right," said the old man. "It +is he you are now assaulting."</p> + +<p>"It is not you that I quarrel with," said the +Lutheran, "but the error of your ways, and the +black artifices you employ to turn the heads of my +parishioners."</p> + +<p>"Your parishioners?" repeated the old priest +with dignity. "Do you know who I am? I am +Sylvester, the legitimate pastor of those poor souls +whom you call your parishioners, and the last +Catholic priest left in this unhappy country. With +cunning and force you have made war on the +religion which has made Norway what it is. You +have robbed her people of their faith; you have +sacked our churches and banished our priests. Far +from my flock, I have eaten my bread in tears and +exile for long years; I have wept and prayed; +almost have I died of grief at leaving my poor +children deserted. But I could not die away from +them. In spite of a thousand dangers, I returned +and buried myself here in the ruins of my dear +church. Only the inhabitants of one farm know of +my return, and from them I receive the bread on +which I live and the straw which is my couch. As +for my 'artifices'—alas! I am old and incapable of +doing anything for my children, who still love and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span> +reverence the Church of their fathers. All I can do +for them is to pray and to celebrate Mass for them +on the great feasts under cover of the charitable +darkness. These are my ruses, these my terrible +mysteries. Now that I have told you them, raise +your sword against the last of God's anointed +priests living in my unhappy land. Strike—for I +wish to die here."</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i44" id="i44"></a> +<img src="images/i045.jpg" width="474" height="650" alt="OLD AGE, TELEMARKEN" /> +<p class="caption">OLD AGE, TELEMARKEN</p> +</div> + +<p>The <i>ci-devant</i> Danish soldier was touched.</p> + +<p>"No," he said. "God forbid that I should raise +my hand against an old man. Live, and die when +God shall call you, in this spot. Adieu, and may +God enlighten you at your last hour."</p> + +<p>"Amen," said the old man. "Both you and I +have great need of the light."</p> + +<p>Porl left. From that day he ceased to persecute +his flock, who held still to their Catholic +practices. A few more times the mysterious light +shone from St. Michael's grotto, and the belated +wayfarer who saw it piously crossed himself. But +when Christmas came the cave remained in darkness. +The last Catholic priest had died. The +initiated farm people had made a tomb for +their beloved pastor in the depths of his chapel; +and there his body lies to this day, waiting for +the resurrection. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span></p> + +<p>The simple facts of the above narrative were +given me by our captain; but for the complete and +detailed history I am indebted to no less a person +than the present Catholic Bishop of Norway—Monseigneur +Fallize.</p> + +<p class="center p6 b1">ARTS AND CRAFTS</p> + +<p class="center p6">CHAPTER VI<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">ARTS AND CRAFTS</p> + +<p class="p2">We landed at Skien, and wandered about the town +before taking train to Christiania. In the first +place we went to a hotel and supplemented our +day's diet of Brand by steaks that were really the +best I had ever eaten, and by little rolls of delicious +white bread, which was a luxury we had not had +the chance of appreciating since we had left the +Britannia Hotel at Trondhjem.</p> + +<p>The town is very prettily situated, and has +charming environments—of which the Nordsjo +Lake, if it can be spoken of in such a way, is much +the most delightful. From the town one sees it +against the background formed by the Liffeld +Mountains. It was on these heights that during +the Franco-German War two French officers +landed in a balloon. They had not the slightest +idea of their whereabouts, and would probably +have perished in the snow had not the presence +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> +of an empty wooden match-box given them sure +proof that they were in a civilised country, and +probably within reach of human habitation. They +sought hopefully for shelter, and were found by +two woodcutters, who showed them such hospitality +as was in their power.</p> + +<p>Across certain bridges are "the islands," where +may be seen many large wood-pulp and paper +mills. The manufacture of pulp for making paper +is an important and ever-increasing source of +revenue to Norway. The pine timber is ground +by powerful machinery into pulp. When the trees +are first taken from the water which carries them +hither from their various native forests, they are +sawed into blocks about eighteen inches long; +these are quickly passed on to workmen, who with +drills extract the knots; the surface is then cleared +of bark and dirt, and they are ready for the stones. +In the machine the sides of the blocks are forced +against rapidly-revolving stones, and are thus +ground into fine powder, which in the volume of +water conveying it to the draining machine is +scarcely distinguishable, so fine is it, and so small +in proportion to the bulk of water. After the +draining process, which is accomplished by passing +the liquid over fine wires, the sheets are taken +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> +up by girls and put under powerful hydraulic +presses; afterwards they are made into bales and +are ready for market. These mills, and the +many hundreds of others, are all worked by the +immense water power which is one of Norway's +greatest assets, though these resources are by +no means fully utilised.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i45" id="i45"></a> +<img src="images/i046.jpg" width="480" height="650" alt="ROMSDALS WATERFALL" /> +<p class="caption">ROMSDALS WATERFALL</p> +</div> + +<p>This knowledge, I may confess, is all at second +hand. We did not devote any considerable time +to Skien, but took the train on the day of our +arrival.</p> + +<p>While we were waiting in the station for the +ticket office to open, which it does one minute +before the time of departure, we were amused by +the antics of two barefooted, very ragged, dirty +little boys. They examined us pretty thoroughly +in a rather furtive way: I have no doubt they had +no business where they were and fully expected to +be turned out. I held out a silver ten-ore piece +in each hand, and with a good deal of embarrassed +giggling they approached and took the tiny pieces +of silver. Very gravely they each shook hands +with me, and, walking right over to the other side +of the station, performed the same ceremony for +Nico's benefit. Then, full of importance, they +walked up to the refreshment counter, and each +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span> +parted with five ore—about a halfpenny—for +chocolates, and the other five ore for cigarettes.</p> + +<p>At last the authorities allowed us to buy our +tickets, and we got into the train, which, like most +Norwegian trains, consisted of second-class and +third-class carriages. In spite of the threats of +the booking office, we were evidently in no hurry +to be off; but in the fulness of time we moved, +and presently slept. When we awoke—at least, +when I awoke, for Nico insisted that he had not +closed his eyes—we had arrived at Christiania. +Allowing ourselves and our many paper parcels to +be cared for by a hotel porter, we drove with him +whither he would. It happened to be to the +Grand Hotel, which is comfortable, and furnished +with heaps of Sheffield plated candlesticks—to say +nothing of a lift and other luxuries to which we had +for long been unaccustomed. We were gently borne +upwards to the floor where was the room which +the hotel porter had decided we should occupy. +We ordered an immense jug of thick chocolate, +and after disposing of as much of this as we +possibly could, we sought our couches, and slept +amid electric lights and other modern luxuries.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i46" id="i46"></a> +<img src="images/i047.jpg" width="472" height="650" alt="THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT" /> +<p class="caption">THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT (STORTHING), CHRISTIANIA<br /> +The Storthing is convened every year, and is divided into an Upper +House (Lagthing) and a Lower House (Odelsthing)</p></div> + +<p>Christiania is built on a magnificent site at the +foot of pine-clothed hills which extend their protection +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> +over the land-bound borders of the town. +As one stands on these hills and looks over the +town a delightful panorama spreads itself before +one's eyes. Beyond the crowded houses stretches +the beautiful Christiania Fjord, which, as it nears the +town, breaks itself up into a thousand tiny fjords, +and thus creates innumerable islands, which are +chosen spots for the summer villas of the richer +inhabitants of the town.</p> + +<p>We stayed for some time in Christiania, a +delightful town, full of life and movement. +During certain hours of the day the whole population +seems to turn out and walk up and down the +fine road in which our hotel is situated, and I +noticed that everyone seemed to be acquainted +with every other.</p> + +<p>We had here two good friends, one of whom was +away during almost the whole of our visit; the +other, a captain of artillery, did the honours of +Holmenkollen for us during a delightful day we +spent together. He called quite early in the day, +and drove us up the hill which leads to the scene +of the great <i>ski</i> competition every winter. All the +way, on either side of the road, are villas, which, +however, are farther and farther apart as the hill is +ascended. Just before the big hotel on the left +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span> +of the road is a small lake; beyond this is the +steep hill down which the ski-jumpers seem to fly +as they take their leaps through the air. The +record leap is a hundred and thirty feet. Of +course, this sport is in the winter, when the ground +is covered with snow and the lake is frozen over +and capable of bearing on its surface thousands of +spectators; on either side of the hill also the +spectators are massed. Nico was present on one +of these occasions, and declares that he had never +witnessed such an inspiriting scene. Everyone +was excited and happy; many of the crowd had +come up from the town on their skis, or had +dragged their little sleighs behind them, to skim +down the long slope to Christiania after the +festivities were over. The girls and the younger +women wear short skirts and their hair flowing, +and it is not resented as a liberty if one addresses +fellow-sportsmen or women without the formality +of an introduction.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i47" id="i47"></a> +<img src="images/i048.jpg" width="476" height="650" alt="SKI SPORTS" /> +<p class="caption">SKI SPORTS<br /> +The Great Holmencollen Day outside Christiana</p> +</div> + +<p>The big hotel at Holmenkollen is a wonderful +wooden structure, built by a Norwegian architect +named Sverre, who is responsible for many buildings +of the same character throughout Norway, but +especially in Christiania and its neighbourhood. +It is as far as possible in accordance with the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span> +old Norwegian style of architecture. It contains +many beautiful rooms, including two bedrooms +furnished in Norwegian style with genuine old +pieces of furniture. Then, there are various rooms +reserved for the Committee or Royalty; the +delightful smoking-room, with its splendid log-filled +fireplace and its alcoves and corners; the +magnificent dining-hall, characteristically decorated, +its walls clothed with Norwegian tapestry of a +singularly happy design. Architect Sverre collaborates +with the great decorative artist Munthe, +who is responsible for many of the adornments. +Leading out of the dining-room is a singular little +chamber, which is entirely decorated and furnished +after designs by Munthe. In this strange room Nico +ensconced himself to make a drawing which should +give some idea of its quaintness. The wooden walls +are primitively carved to represent various scenes +from Norwegian fairy tales. The door is guarded +by two grotesque monsters, and the chairs and +small tables are of equally original shape and +colouring. On the night of the ski competition +the enormous dining-room is crammed with excited, +happy parties, most of the tables having been +engaged weeks beforehand, for it is a favourite +resort for supper-parties on this night. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span></p> + +<p>After luncheon on the autumn day which +witnessed my one and only visit to Holmenkollen, +we drove farther up the hill, and examined with +much interest the exteriors and furnished interiors +of various old Norwegian buildings which have +been transplanted from other parts to this centre, +in order that the Norwegian people may keep +safely some relics of their olden days, of which they +have lost many by fire or neglect. There are +further excellent examples of their various periods +of architecture to be seen at Bygdo, a small beautifully +wooded peninsula on the west of the town. +It is possible, and very pleasant, either to drive or +to walk to that place; but we went one cold +Sunday morning by a ferry steamer, which landed +us within a few minutes of our destination. There +was a tennis tournament going on the same day +and in the same direction; it is evident that +Norwegians are great enthusiasts over this game, +as indeed they are over athletic sports generally. +A committee have bought a large piece of land on +this peninsula. They wish to gather a representative +collection of old houses from various parts +of the country. The chief building is "the people's +museum." Though not an old building, it contains +a most interesting collection of furniture, clothes, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span> +religious objects, and domestic utensils from all +parts of Norway and of various dates. Surrounding +it are such old buildings as the committee have +already acquired. Most of the residents of Christiania +are subscribers to this institution and have +the right of free entrance. Near by is a small +Royal villa called Oscar's Hall. It looks a delightful +place, standing in its brilliant whiteness among +dark pine trees. On the King's estate is situated +an old <i>stavekirke</i>, one of the few which remain +intact. It is built of logs, and has a species of +balcony running almost round it. The interior is +very dark; but when one's eyes get used to the +semi-obscurity it is to be seen that the church is +most elaborately and beautifully carved. All these +pole churches date from pre-Reformation times, +and were consecrated Catholic places of worship. +Catholics are still few in Norway; but the old +religion is spreading, and in Christiania itself there +are three or four parishes that have each a church +and a priest.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i48" id="i48"></a> +<img src="images/i049.jpg" width="476" height="650" alt="ROOM BY MUNTHE AT HOLMENCOLLEN" /> +<p class="caption">ROOM BY MUNTHE AT HOLMENCOLLEN</p> +</div> + +<p>I should love to return to this interesting little +peninsula some warm summer's day; but all my +enjoyment was spoilt and the edge of my interest +dulled by the extreme cold, for which I was ill +prepared. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span></p> + +<p>The Christiania Fjord being less influenced by the +Gulf Stream than the fjords on the western and +northern coasts, the winter is longer in Christiania +than in many places farther north. Generally this +piece of water is entirely frozen over, and the +country is tightly locked in the arms of Winter +from December until March; the snowfalls, untampered +with by thaws, accumulate and cause +gigantic obstructions. The cold, though much +more intense than in the English climate, is more +easily bearable than our milder winters. The +atmosphere is dry and pleasant, and often the sun +shines brilliantly during the short days, and the +delightful sports of this season are innumerable. +Skiing, of course, must take the first place. The +skis are really snow skates. They consist of a pair +of very long, but very narrow, strips of wood, very +thin and elastic. In front they are slightly turned +up and pointed. The correct length should +measure a third more than the height of the +wearer. The skis are attached to shoes, or merely +to straps, set a little back from the middle of the +strip of wood. The Norwegians are great adepts +at getting about on skis. They make extraordinarily +rapid progress over the snow, especially +when it is neither too hard nor too sticky. They +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span> +help themselves along and partly steer themselves +by the aid of long poles. Sometimes a traveller on +skis, becoming thirsty, will stop at a little unfrozen +spring, and, lowering himself with wonderful +cleverness until he lies at full length with his skis +disposed just as they should be, he puts his mouth +to the edge of the water and drinks. This is what +is called "drinking goose wine," and I assure you +there is a good deal of knack necessary both to get +down and to get up.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i49" id="i49"></a> +<img src="images/i050.jpg" width="650" height="470" alt="SKIERS DRINKING GOOSEWINE" /> +<p class="caption">SKIERS DRINKING GOOSEWINE</p> +</div> + +<p>Skating is another favourite sport, for which +there are plenty of opportunities. Sledging takes +the place of driving through the winter months. +Another gloriously exhilarating sport is tobogganing, +either alone or in parties. The leader steers his +rapid progress with a stick. One may meet with +an unforeseen obstacle, and the occupants may be +thrown out head-first with a jerk; but the fall in +the soft snow is not often serious.</p> + +<p>The shops in Christiania are very good, and +generally, to the stranger at least, very dear; but +at the big fur store there I bought for a ridiculously +small sum two of the prettiest little reindeer-skin +coats, made by the Lapps, and as worn by the +Lapps. I brought them home with great glee to +my babies, but was nonplussed by my boy, who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span> +absolutely refused to have anything to do with his +after he had elicited by hundreds of questions +that the stuff the coat was made of was fur, that +fur was the skin of the reindeer, that reindeer were +young and had mothers and fathers, and that his +coat couldn't run about in the snow because it was +dead, and at last, that it was dead because Loye +had to have a winter coat.</p> + +<p>When after some weeks I persuaded him that +the reindeer would be much more sad if the coat +was not worn, he consented to have it on, but +only on condition that it should be slipped on over +his feet. Both the little garments were a great +success; but I am afraid that the children's nurse +never quite approved them. I think she found it +hard to get used to coats that had no hooks or +buttons but were fastened with plaited leather +strings, and she thought her charges looked rather +<i>outré</i>.</p> + +<p>Christiania has but one picture-dealer of any +importance. From what we saw of the pictures +there we concluded that Norwegian art on the +whole is so intensely affected as to say absolutely +nothing to the beholder. We met two art enthusiasts +at luncheon at the house of an exceedingly +clever friend of ours, who was and is one of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span> +editors of Christiania's chief newspaper. These +two were man and wife, and obviously it was the +wife's opinion, on art at least, that dominated. +Their greatest artist in Europe's eyes they scoffed +at; scarcely would they admit that he was clever, +beauty and success being two attributes which do +not belong to art as they understand it. They +belonged to the ever-increasing number of folk who, +to appear original and extra-cultivated, refuse to see +beauty unless it is expressed grotesquely or incomprehensibly. +So insistent was this particular +devotee that she carried us along on the wave of +her heated argument out of our friend's dining-room +through the cold streets to her flat, where she +planted us in front of a picture by her favourite +artist. It was dark-green and white in patches +laid quite rawly on the canvas. "Isn't it wonderful?" +she cried. "Now you must own yourselves +vanquished!"</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i50" id="i50"></a> +<img src="images/i051.jpg" width="473" height="650" alt="GIRLS ON OVERTURNED SLEDGE, HOLMENCOLLEN" /> +<p class="caption">GIRLS ON OVERTURNED SLEDGE, HOLMENCOLLEN</p> +</div> + +<p>"What is it?" I asked, with tactless ignorance, +after examining it long and patiently from as many +different points as I could discover in the small +room.</p> + +<p>"What is it?" said Nico, with artistic licence, +not moving from the spot where he had taken up +his stand. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span></p> + +<p>"What does it matter what it is?" the owner +answered, turning on us with flashing eyes. "Don't +you recognise the wonder of it? I myself had it +for three weeks, loving it and admiring it, and +asking myself how to hang it. The artist himself +told me it must hang as you see it, and explained +to me that it was a picture of a woman standing in +the moonlight."</p> + +<p>"But where does she stand?" said Nico. "And +where is the moon?"</p> + +<p>"At her feet," said the worshipper. "My friend +is such a great artist that he reverses the natural +order of things, subjugating everything to his art."</p> + +<p>Surely all this is rather extravagant, and surely +it is not <i>this</i> art that will live when the painter is +no longer at hand to explain and to decide "which +way up." It is a great pity that all these clever +people—for the painter has immense talent, as is +shown in his earlier work, and our two interested +friends were evidently people of intellect—should +be so extraordinarily perverted in their tastes. +Norwegian art is comparatively young; but it +has made great strides. It has produced Fritz +Thaulow, who, though not recognised by the +enthusiasts of the class I have described, can +boast the admiration of all Europe; among many +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> +clever designers, the decorative Munthe; that +rather morbid youth, Edward Munch, whose lithographs +give evidence of the great things of which +he is capable; and many other artists whose names, +known and praised in their own country, are not +of such widespread celebrity in this.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i51" id="i51"></a> +<img src="images/i052.jpg" width="650" height="476" alt="OLD CANAL, CHRISTIANIA." /> +<p class="caption">OLD CANAL, CHRISTIANIA.</p> +</div> + +<p>During the middle of the nineteenth century +flourished the great painter of peasant life, +Tidemand. A series of his work is to be seen in +the King's summer villa near Christiania, and his +paintings, while not, perhaps, among the masterpieces +of art, are very useful and interesting as +showing the peasant life of Norway, under almost +every condition, at a period when the people +still wore their interesting costumes and had not +lost any of their old ways and customs. These +pictures are reproduced in every form, and are to +be met with in many books on Norway, and in +very many Norwegian houses.</p> + +<p>There are also in Norway painters who devote +themselves to the beauties of Nature, with which +their fatherland is so generously endowed. This +school has produced many fine pictures; but it +seems to be rather falling out of favour in these +days of exaggeration.</p> + +<p>Arts in which the Norwegians have excelled +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span> +since early times, and continue to excel, are those +of weaving and embroidery. In these their nation +shows an originality and charm, both of colour and +of design, which are truly admirable. From as +early as the twelfth century relics of cloths with +figures interwoven are extant. One at present +preserved in a church represents some of the +months in allegorical pictures, and is evidently a +fragment of a much larger piece which would +include symbols of all the months of the year.</p> + +<p>Examples of the history of picture-weaving +become plentiful and important with the beginning +of the seventeenth century. As with all +arts of the period, this branch was principally +dedicated to the representation of sacred subjects. +Besides these there are many samples of purely +decorative weaving, beautiful for their colour and +quaint conventional designs, often geometrical, or +a continued repetition of one or two very simple +expressions of the form of a doubtful animal. The +cultured Norwegians treasure these pieces of woven +cloth, and hang them on their walls, or even have +them framed. In the various museums are excellent +examples of every branch of this art. To-day +it is a very thriving industry. The weavers +sit at an upright loom, and work in fast-dyed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> +wools with an immense range of colours. The +design is exactly the same on both sides, and the +article when finished will wear almost indefinitely. +Large quantities of it are used for wall-covering, +and I can imagine nothing more delightful for +this purpose. Any design can be produced, and +their great artist, Munthe, has made many drawings, +especially for this manner of reproduction. +Embroidery in Norway I find all the more +charming because it is <i>not</i> very varied. In other +countries embroidery does many things; but here +the workers cling to their very beautiful old-fashioned +lines, and fill them in with strongly +contrasted colours, mixing silk and wool. Mittens, +gloves, bonnets, cloth, and all conceivable articles +are gorgeously embroidered for personal wear or +for sale, and the Norwegians themselves are by no +means the least enthusiastic buyers.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i52" id="i52"></a> +<img src="images/i053.jpg" width="473" height="650" alt="SLEDGING BY TORCHLIGHT" /> +<p class="caption">SLEDGING BY TORCHLIGHT</p> +</div> + +<p>Work in silver is another of the nation's handicrafts. +In all the towns through which the tourist +travels he will find large and small shops devoted +to the sale of silver or silver-gilt filigree work and +enamel. When he has seen one such shop, he has +seen all; for over the country the same enamelled +salt-cellars and butterflies and spoons, the same +fairylike brooches and other ornaments, are repeated. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> +Indeed, I became as heartily sick of these +rather pretentious ornaments as I was enthusiastically +charmed with the peasants' jewellery of +an earlier age, frequently made by themselves, and +showing an attractive absence of the machine-accomplished +finish of the modern jewellery. By +expressing the presence of the something which +lifts hand work above machine work, I do not mean +that there is not among the original silver work +evidence of the greatest talent in this direction. +The embossed filigree work is truly admirable. +Precious stones do not take any important place. +A coloured stone here and there, more often than +not false, justifies its presence by increasing the +beauty of the ornament, and not only by adding +immensely to the expense of the object. One of +the most striking pieces of jewellery is an enormous +round brooch or buckle, often as large as a small +plate. Dozens of these saucer-like pieces of metal, +highly polished, are suspended by links to the body +of the brooch, shaking and glittering with every +movement.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i53" id="i53"></a> +<img src="images/i054.jpg" width="475" height="650" alt="MAKING NATIVE TAPESTRY" /> +<p class="caption">MAKING NATIVE TAPESTRY<br /> +Working a design by Gerard Munthe, the well-known +decorative artist</p> +</div> + +<p>As for Norwegian wood-carving, words fail me to +express my admiration for the bold and strong +effects produced with wonderful skill and by +very primitive methods. During the long winters +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span> +the peasants labour, often with no other tool than +penknives. Their broadly carved furniture, with +the invariable circular design which is so prominent +in their embroidery also, has a charm that I miss +in the wonderful and delicate carving of the East. +I tried hard to possess myself of a few such pieces +of furniture—a very tall grandfather clock, a carved +and coloured cradle, a sideboard, and a cupboard—but +in vain. The peasant owners refused to sell—wisely +indeed, for surely these things are more +appropriate in their big yellow-painted log-built +rooms than anywhere else. Other objects which I +sought to obtain from various antiquaries were absolutely +beyond the reach of my purse: charming as +they were, the prices asked were ridiculously high. +I suppose that the sums asked are special during +the tourist season, and that Norwegians get what +they want at much reduced figures during the +winter months. The explanation of this is obviously +the absence of any competition. Two or three big +shops have a corner in such things.</p> + +<p>In all our travels we did not come across any +little shop of the type one meets so frequently in +most towns in England and on the Continent. It +must be admitted that in such a country as Norway +to buy such things as the peasants may be willing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span> +to dispose of necessitates a considerable outlay. +For the joy of buying give me Italy, or Spain, or +Belgium, of which countries swarm with small +antiquaries to whom the chance of a sale is too +precious to be allowed to slide for such a slight +reason as a difference between the price asked and +the price the would-be purchaser feels inclined +to pay.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i54" id="i54"></a> +<img src="images/i055.jpg" width="650" height="476" alt="BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF CHRISTIANIA" /> +<p class="caption">BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF CHRISTIANIA</p> +</div> + +<p class="center b1 p6">FARM-HOUSES: WEDDING<br /> +FESTIVITIES</p> + +<p class="center p6">CHAPTER VII<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">FARM-HOUSES: WEDDING FESTIVITIES</p> + +<p class="p2">The climatic conditions of Norway necessitate +much expenditure in the building of a farm. On +account of the intense cold of the winter, warm +houses must be provided for the live-stock, and +dry storage also is necessary. As a rule, nowadays +the buildings on a farm are four, though in +former times there were often many small buildings—notably +the charmingly carved storehouses one +still sees here and there on the farms, standing on +round stones and piles some three or four feet from +the ground, for fear of rats as well as for dryness. +Of the four buildings usual on an ordinary farm, +the main house is, of course, the dwelling-place, the +size of which varies. A cellar the size of the +whole area of the house is generally built under +this for storage of potatoes and other necessaries. +The buildings are almost invariably of logs dovetailed +together at the corners, painted inside and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span> +out. Near this living place is another erection +which contains the rooms for the farm hands, the +laundry, and the winter supply of wood and peat. +The third building is chiefly for the animals, and is +divided into different compartments, of which some +are devoted to the storage of farming implements, +grains, etc. These outhouses are often built with +two stories connected by an inclined plane of logs, +up which the various vehicles of the farm are pulled +to be housed during the winter months. The +fourth building is the storehouse, built from the +ground, in which are kept the household provisions +and sometimes bedding and clothes not in actual +use. Many of the most elaborate and ancient of +these <i>stabur</i> have been bought by the State or +by private persons for presentation to the various +museums which devote themselves to the collection +of relics of old Norway and try to reproduce both +houses and churches of old times with as many of +their original belongings and fittings as possible.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i55" id="i55"></a> +<img src="images/i056.jpg" width="471" height="650" alt="A VOSSE BRIDE" /> +<p class="caption">A VOSSE BRIDE</p> +</div> + +<p>The farms surrounded by these necessary buildings +are often many miles apart, and consequently +social reunions are comparatively rare. In winter +the snow-covered ground is traversed with great +rapidity by sledges or on ski-shod feet, and, the +farm work being not so heavy or so pressing as at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span> +other seasons, the country people give dancing +parties on the slightest excuse. The music is +primitive; but the hearts and feet are light, and +food and drink go round in abundance. In +summer all the residents on the farm are busily +engaged in planting and gathering their small crops, +cutting every available blade of the grass which is +so precious and means so much to their supplies of +milk and butter and cheese when the ground is +frozen and deep in snow. Their method of drying +the grass is rather strange. Tall stakes are planted +in the ground at short intervals, and on these small +bunches of grass are impaled. To facilitate the +operation, the stake is capped with a sharp steel +point. In this manner scarcely a blade of grass +escapes the gatherers, and the drying process is +much more rapid than it could otherwise be on +these slopes. In summer the cattle, the goats, and +the sheep are sent out to graze on the mountain +slopes. In charge of each flock are two or three +persons, generally girls. They spend their summer +in tiny rough huts called saeters. Hearing of these +saeters, I inquired by what means, if not by long +and difficult daily journeys, the dwellers in them +were provided with food, and how did the +farm people obtain from the heights their daily +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span> +supply of cheese, milk, and butter? Simply +enough: one end of a thick wire rope is fixed up on +the heights; the other is attached to a post below. +The rope traverses precipices, ravines, and raging +torrents. With the aid of a pulley and a second +length of wire of less thickness, one may thus +transport buckets of milk, bundles of hay, and +packages of all sorts. The operators at either end +are warned by a whistle that their attention is +required. We were told, by the people of a farm +where we stayed, that a young man sending down +a bundle of hay slipped, and, clinging to the wire, +slid with fearful rapidity to the opposite side. +Midway over the fjord which this wire traversed his +fingers were cut right through, and he dropped. +Fortunately, there had been spectators of the +adventure, and he was rescued without further +injury. In spite of the dangers, I believe the +peasants often avail themselves of this mode of +descent from the saeters to their homes. They are +courageous. On our long drives through different +districts of Norway, we frequently met with these +aerial wireways; and always on the steepest slopes +one could gain on foot one saw cattle calmly grazing +on the scanty grass at angles which make a +poor human being dizzy. How the great beasts +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span> +can keep their foothold on the loose soil, almost as +steep as the side of a house, puzzled me often; and +how they can look fat and well-fed on the miserable +supply of green stuff which is all they find in +many districts is indeed a problem.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i56" id="i56"></a> +<img src="images/i057.jpg" width="650" height="482" alt="FARM-HOUSES BUILT OF POLES" /> +<p class="caption">FARM-HOUSES BUILT OF POLES</p> +</div> + +<p>The devout Norwegians have a theory to explain +the poorness of their soil. At the creation of the +world the angels whose duty it was to scatter the +soil forgot Norway. Seeing this, the guardian +angel of the land made complaints to the Creator. +What was to be done? Impossible to restart the +whole of the creation for the sake of Norway. +"Come, my little angels," said He: "look carefully, +and perhaps you may still find a little earth." The +conscience-stricken angels swept the floor of +Heaven, and the little dust they found they +gathered in their draperies and scattered over the +Norwegian rocks. That is why, while Norway is +rich in stones, she is poorly provided with soil. +Even in many of the valleys the earth is plentifully +bestrewn with big stones and boulders fallen from +the mountains, and where there are small tracts +without stones one frequently finds that the ground +is so marshy as to be useless. That there is as +much cultivated ground only shows what can be +dragged from Nature by men endowed with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span> +patience and industry. Round the fjords the +fisherman chooses for his log hut a spot where his +wife may feed a cow and cultivate a small plot +of potatoes, while he devotes his life to gathering +the hard and difficult harvest of the sea.</p> + +<p>At the country fairs or other rare meetings of +folks for one reason or another, the young Norwegians +meet and court. The girl must be a good +housewife and should be able to make bread, to +spin, and, in short, be capable of almost everything, +for in this country of isolated homes it is impossible +or difficult to provide a substitute for the invalid +or incompetent member of a family. Sometimes +among the humbler classes the betrothed couple +wait years for the completion of their tie, as it is +sometimes necessary to await the demise of an +older couple to obtain a dwelling-place. During +this time the bride-elect spins and makes up the +linen that will last her for life. The betrothed +couple are allowed all liberty to see each other and +even to journey together.</p> + +<p>I have taken from a Norwegian paper an accurate +account of wedding customs in the middle of the +last century, and I am assured that, with a few exceptions, +everything remains much the same to this +day. The usages vary slightly in different districts. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span> +The Norwegian writer has chosen Hardanger for +his description.</p> + +<p>When a young man of the people wishes to offer +his heart and hand to the maiden of his choice, he +does not accomplish the deed himself, but appoints +as his spokesman <i>opordsmannen</i>, a man of consequence +in the district, a relation if possible. +Together they go to the house of the desired one's +parents. First they interview the father, all standing. +If the father agrees to consult his wife a good +sign has been given, and the <i>opordsmann</i> seats +himself. Settlements and dowry are discussed, and +finally the girl herself is consulted. If she consents +to shake hands with her lover the engagement is a +settled thing. All seat themselves for refreshments, +and the party drink healths out of the best silver +mug. Without waiting for the ceremony, the +young couple take possession of the best room; +and they are looked upon as man and wife. The +morning after the contract the bridal pair are +served with coffee and food in their room by the +bride's parents.</p> + +<p>This interview is always on a Saturday. In +Telemarken the mode of procedure differs slightly. +The spokesman, after consulting the girl's parents, +goes to her room, and drags her out of bed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span> +and into the barn, where the suitor waits to +receive her.</p> + +<p>The mother of a friend once nearly had a very +disagreeable experience. Her child's nurse was a +Norwegian; the family were spending the summer +in a hotel at Telemarken. In the night the lady's +door was burst open, and in spite of protestations +she was dragged out of bed by her wrists. Only +the opportune arrival of her husband brought to +light the fact that this violent attack was really +intended for the courting of her nurse.</p> + +<p>To return to the Hardanger bridal. Soon after +this the nearest friends and relations are invited to +the betrothal party, which is occasion for much +eating and drinking, in about a fortnight. During +the interval the young lover presents to his mistress +a wooden box carved or painted by himself, and +containing all the jewellery he can afford to present +to her; and the damsel prepares for her gift to +him embroidered braces and a belt. Though +maidenly modesty refuses to acknowledge it, these +articles of attire have been in preparation for +many months. The saying goes that he who weds +a girl who is "getting on" will have the best supply +of braces and belts.</p> + +<p>The wedding proper is usually in the summer. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span> +Invitations must be given in person at least a +fortnight in advance, and as far as possible on the +same day, so that on comparing notes the guests +may have no cause for complaint. These invitations +are on a large scale. Everyone for miles +round of the same social position as the bride's +family is invited; so, of course, are all the relations +of the happy couple. I am given to understand +that caste prejudices are very strong in the country +districts. If the child of a <i>jaardemann</i> (rich +farmer) should insist on marrying into the family +of a <i>husmann</i> (small tenant-farmer), the family +of the rich farmer will refuse to have anything to +do with the young people, or even to see their +child again.</p> + +<p>Preparations for feasting on an enormous scale +are begun. Barrels of the native corn-brandy +and a smaller quantity of cognac, together with +kegs of mead and wine and abundance of beer, are +provided to encourage the gaiety of the guests. +Three or four days before the wedding the +<i>klejvekjaeringer</i> arrive. These are eight or ten +of the women friends of the family, who are +invited to assist in the preparations and to attend +to the guests during the feast. It is looked upon +as a great honour to be invited in this capacity. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span> +Cooking begins in hot earnest. Piles of cakes are +made of rye and milk. Stalks of <i>fladbrod</i>—pancakes +of a kind—are representative standbys. +Mountains of bread and raw smoked meat are +cut up. The ox and pig, which have been killed +in anticipation, are made ready. Cylinders of +butter, weighing from twelve to fourteen pounds, +are placed at intervals on the board; the guests +will help themselves, smearing their bread and +cakes with it and then sprinkling sugar over.</p> + +<p>Two days beforehand arrives the <i>kjogemester</i>. +Each district possesses an official of that kind, who +is paid for his services. He is chief steward and +master of ceremonies. On him falls the responsibility +of placing all the guests in the order of +precedence. As if this were not enough for one +man, he has also control over the drinks, and +during the festivities is liable to be called upon +at any moment to make various speeches in extemporised +verse.</p> + +<p>The day before the wedding the servants of the +guests arrive. They are laden with presents, +mostly of food and drink. They are shown into +the <i>stabur</i> (storehouse), where the presents and +wedding clothes are on view, given food and drink, +and allowed to go their ways home. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i57" id="i57"></a> +<img src="images/i058.jpg" width="476" height="650" alt="COUNTRY GIRL, BERGEN DISTRICT" /> +<p class="caption">COUNTRY GIRL, BERGEN DISTRICT</p> +</div> + +<p>In the evening of the same day the party begins. +At the time this account was written, all came in +their national costume and wore elaborate jewellery; +but now few besides the bride have preserved this +costume, though in Hardanger it is certainly much +more common than in other districts. The cap +mostly seen is a small tight-fitting bonnet—black +for married women and blue for girls. In +parts where costume is worn this rule as to colour +holds good for men also.</p> + +<p>It is now the business of the master of ceremonies +to direct each guest to the correct place at the +table. The bride and the bridegroom sit at either +end of the table, both in unmarried costumes.</p> + +<p>When they seat themselves two shots are fired. +The kjogemester, in verse, thanks the guests for +their presence at the feast, and gives out the names +of the various voluntary helpers, of the four best +men, of the four bridesmaids, and of the fiddler +and the drummer. The musicians give a sample +of their skill and seat themselves at the festive +board.</p> + +<p>Early in the night the bridal pair retire.</p> + +<p>Then, after more eating and drinking, the guests +dance until the small hours. Sleeping accommodation +is found for all—bedrooms for the older and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> +more respected persons, the barns for younger +ones—and often a near neighbour's house shelters +many.</p> + +<p>In the morning at eight or nine o'clock the +waitresses carry round food and drink to the +sleepers, who then get up and eat and drink still +more. The best men brush the bridegroom's +clothes and boots and help him to dress, and in +the storehouse the bridesmaids render the same +service to the bride. The young couple are then +on view, but only to the parents and those of the +immediate circle, to the fiddler, and to the drummer. +The bride stands like a queen in her picturesque +dress, decked in a silver or gilt crown, often set +with many stones and with red, white, and blue +ribbons in her flowing hair. Her breast is covered +with brooches and ornaments linked together by +silver chains; and one may notice that from the +centre jewel hang danglements like small saucers, +the especial perquisite of the matron. Her +fingers are covered with rings, and she wears a +gorgeous silver belt and silver buckles on her shoes. +The bridegroom wears knee-breeches and a silver +cord round his hat, and the rest of his clothes are +in keeping with this grandeur.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i58" id="i58"></a> +<img src="images/i059.jpg" width="474" height="650" alt="SÆTERSDALEN BRIDE" /> +<p class="caption">SÆTERSDALEN BRIDE</p> +</div> + +<p>Then the drummer beats his drum and the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span> +fiddler fiddles, and all the party crowd to the door +of the stabur and receive drink from the hands of +the bride. A squad of the men helpers lead the +way to church. In former times the journey, if by +land, was made on foot; but now the party drives. +Occasionally the fjord too has to be crossed. One +can imagine how romantic such a sight would be. +The boats are long and broad. In the first one go +the music, the bride and bridegroom, the attendant +men and maids, and the parents of the couple. +Before starting the master of ceremonies provides +all the guests with brandy. Arrived at the church +and while waiting for the pastor, who often comes +from afar, the party adjourn to the nearest house, +and drink. Naturally a crowd has collected to see +the wedding. All who ask are provided with drink +by the kjogemester, who has also to bid the bride's +parents good-bye in her name and in verse.</p> + +<p>The celebrant arrived, this ubiquitous official +leads the way to the church. He is followed +immediately by the drummer and the fiddler, who, +however, drop out of line at the church door. The +bride is accompanied by the four best men; the +groom is attending the bridesmaids. At the church +door the maids give the groom to his bride, who +is treated in the same manner by the best men. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span> +Then the marriage ceremony proceeds. The +interesting pair stand throughout; the rest of the +party are seated. At the conclusion of the ceremony +all the guests make offerings to the parson +and to the parson's clerk. When this important +duty has been fulfilled the parson is offered wedding +food and drink in a neighbouring house. In many +cases he is presented with a bottle of spirits and +more food. These he is to take home, that his +wife and family may share in the feast.</p> + +<p>The journey back is made in much rejoicing. +Arrived, after more food and drink, the party +dance; the bride performing first with her husband, +and then with the best men, and so on +through the party; dancing last with the drummer, +who, as a final compliment, must kick the highest +beam in the ceiling. For the privilege of dancing +with the bride her partner tips the fiddler, and at +the conclusion presents her with a small sum, +known as cradle money, to be spent on the layette +of the hoped-for children. Sometime during the +wedding day the party is regaled with bridegroom's +porridge, which is a paste made with flour and +cream, stirred so quickly that the cream partly +turns to butter. This indigestible mass is followed +by more drains of spirits to the accompaniment of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> +music, and the master of ceremonies recites a toast +to the honour of marriage in verse which would not +bear translation.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i59" id="i59"></a> +<img src="images/i060.jpg" width="473" height="650" alt="A HARDANGER BRIDE" /> +<p class="caption">A HARDANGER BRIDE</p> +</div> + +<p>While the youths and maidens dance the +matrons work and gossip, and the older men have +drinking competitions, won by him who manages +to keep his senses longest. The bride and the bridegroom +retire early. The others dance, eat, and +drink, as before, into the next day. In the morning +the servants of the guests arrive with buckets full of +sweet milk, which they offer to the keeping up of +the banquet. In return they are given beer, and +their empty buckets are filled with wedding food. +After this—at least, so it happened when this +account was written—the pair seat themselves, and +every guest in turn deposits a money present on a +large pewter plate placed for the purpose. On +each donation the giver drinks with the couple out +of a large silver mug, which is kept brimming by +one of the best men. Then is eaten the bride's +porridge, which is a paste made of flour and milk, +and not so great a luxury as the bridegroom's +porridge, eaten the previous day.</p> + +<p>The fun and feasting go on all day. If one may +believe certain Norwegian paintings and engravings, +fights are not infrequent. Next day all sleep, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span> +badly they must need to do so; during the day +adieux are said, and the guests, after much pressing +to the contrary, at last take their departure.</p> + +<p>A week later the couple leave the farm and take +up their abode in the bridegroom's house, whence +the bride immediately pays a round of visits to her +neighbours, who assemble the following day for +more feasting at the new home. This is the end +of the romance. Henceforward hard work and +the bearing of many children are the lot of the +Norwegian woman, varied but seldom by dissipation +in any form.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i60" id="i60"></a> +<img src="images/i061.jpg" width="473" height="650" alt="MAKING "FLAD-BROD"—A COTTAGE INTERIOR" /> +<p class="caption">MAKING "FLAD-BROD"—A COTTAGE INTERIOR</p> +</div> + +<p>I have not been able to discover how far this +account of the marriage customs of Norway may +be applied to the present day; but I am assured +by the Norwegian friend who kindly helped me +with the translation that in the isolated country +districts such affairs still follow the course I have +described.</p> + +<p>At funerals there are celebrations of much the +same kind. Although there is no actual dancing +until after the return from the burial, drink passes +freely. I am told by an acquaintance, who +assisted at the funeral of one of his tenants, +that the whole party were overcome by drink to +such an extent that at the churchyard it was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span> +discovered that the corpse had been forgotten. +The pastor was naturally indignant. He and the +mourners had to wait in the snow-covered cemetery +until the coffin containing the remains could +be fetched. In districts far removed from a town +the food and drink for a funeral party are generally +ordered while the funeral subject is still alive. A +friend, calling to offer condolences, was served with +cakes, which she was begged to partake of on the +plea that "the corpse herself made them." Many +of the rich farmers order their own coffins and keep +them in the stabur. In winter the ground is +frozen so hard that it has to be blasted.</p> + +<p class="center p6 b1">FORESTRY: REINDEER:<br /> +LAND TENURES</p> + +<p class="center p6">CHAPTER VIII<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">FORESTRY: REINDEER: LAND TENURES</p> + +<p class="p2">During my long walks while Nico was painting, +I was refreshed and delighted by the abundance of +wild fruit which I found everywhere, delicious little +strawberries and large raspberries. Once, while I +was greedily stripping a bush of raspberries, sitting +at my ease on a rock beside the shrub, a large +snake glided from under my skirt, and hid itself +beneath the stone on which my feet were resting. +I had a terrible fright for a moment. I have never +discovered whether there are poisonous snakes +in Norway. Every four or five years certain +districts are infested by animals about the size and +form of a guinea-pig. They swarm all over the +country, and do a good deal of damage. Immense +numbers are killed, and the race seems to die out, +until, when a period of four or five years has +elapsed, they appear again. I was told this by +an English inhabitant, who could give me no +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span> +reason for this intermittent character of their +presence.</p> + +<p>The Norwegian horses take their pleasures sadly. +When they are not working, and are set at liberty +to feed along the strip of herbage, they are either +attached by a short chain round one leg to a +staple fixed in the ground, or, what is worse, their +forefeet are linked closely together by an arrangement +like handcuffs. To see the poor things trying +to be frisky amid these circumstances is quite +painful. Nico describes the movement which +results as "hirpling." It is a cross word, I suppose, +between hopping and limping, and is extremely +expressive of what it is intended to represent. In +the towns the horse's forefoot is tied to the wheel +of the cart when the driver is obliged to leave it. +What would happen if wandering musicians were +to strike up an equine cake-walk, I tremble to +think!</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i61" id="i61"></a> +<img src="images/i062.jpg" width="468" height="650" alt="SNOW PLOUGH DRAWN BY EIGHT OR TEN HORSES" /> +<p class="caption">SNOW PLOUGH DRAWN BY EIGHT OR TEN HORSES</p> +</div> + +<p>In a country of such scattered population, the +keeping of the miles of road in good order is +naturally a question of moment. On most of his +drives the traveller will notice hundreds of little +poles painted red, and bearing some kind of inscription, +planted at short intervals. These signposts +give the name of the farmer or landowner appointed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span> +by the <i>lensmand</i> to look after and repair a certain +area of road, which is also indicated on the post. I +do not know whether the farmer or the careless +lensmand is to be blamed for the terrible condition +of some few of the roads over which we passed. +On the other hand, the difficulties to be contended +with considered, the condition of the chief ways +is wonderfully good. Many of the roads are cut +up inconveniently by gates, placed at quite short +intervals. Every second minute one has to +scramble off one's cart to open these obstacles; but +I believe they are less for the purpose of causing +trouble than for keeping some sort of control over +the straying of the farm animals. All along the +route one meets with curious wedge-shaped constructions +of wood. These are the snow ploughs. +When they are needed, as many as six or eight +horses are harnessed to them, and slowly they force +a passage through the deep snow. I think they +can be used only at the beginning or at the end of +winter, though I am not quite certain; but why +should people use ploughs when winter transit is +entirely and most conveniently accomplished on +sledges and skis? The deep valleys which are +generally a feature on one side of a Norwegian +roadway are levelled with drifts of snow, and it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span> +is only when spring comes that the road may be +tracked by the heads of the ten-foot poles planted +along the path, which begin to show themselves +only as the thaw sets in. What a lonely, mysterious +journey for the solitary postman!</p> + +<p>Somewhere in the neighbourhood of Odde lives +to this day a postman who had a terrible adventure +in the snow. The history of it was told me by a +man who drove us for days along the road across +Norway between Odde and Christiania. In the +winter in the farming districts letters are delivered +only once a week—perforce by the postmen on +skis. I gathered that the day of delivery is not +absolutely certain, and the man is sometimes days +on his trip. The postman in question set out, as +usual, alone; half way to his destination he sank +into a snow-drift on the side of the mountain. In +a day or two, when his continued absence was +remarked, search-parties of thirty or forty men set +out to find him. Of these searchers my driver was +one. With them they took his coffin, expecting +indeed to find him, but resigned to the certitude +of finding his dead body only. Before the third +day was over they sorrowfully gave up the search, +and returned to their homes to wait until spring +should force the secret from the snow. At the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span> +end of the third day, a feeble, white-haired man +staggered into the station, and fell fainting to the +ground. For three days the postman had been +buried alive, and at last, by dint of digging with +his post-horn, he had got free. The rescue party +had passed over his very head, and he had heard +them speaking of him and finally deciding to give +up the search; but of course it was impossible for +him to discover himself to them. Imagine the joy +of the community at his return! You may be +sure he was well nursed back to health; and still, +summer and winter alike, he carries the mail-bag +over his allotted route.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i62" id="i62"></a> +<img src="images/i063.jpg" width="473" height="650" alt="FISHING THROUGH THE ICE ON CHRISTIANIA FJORD" /> +<p class="caption">FISHING THROUGH THE ICE ON CHRISTIANIA FJORD</p> +</div> + +<p>It is obvious that the winter is in Norway a time +of enforced cessation from farm work. With the +exception of a certain amount of labour connected +with the cattle, there is little to be done for several +months. The men pass most of this quiet time in +carving wood and making various articles out of +birch bark. The women spin for their household +needs, and knit and embroider what may be called +fancy goods in expectation of the tourist season. +The large shops buy up enormous quantities of +the peasants' winter work, and each of the posting +inns is a small centre where the peasants of the +neighbourhood endeavour to get large prices for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span> +the products of their winter industry—prices which +dwindle through the summer as the days become +shorter and the tourists fewer. It must be +admitted that they are extraordinarily clever +carvers; and they have a rather primitive method +of painting their wares which is very decorative +and, when it is not too well done, quite attractive. +Their nicest carving they keep to themselves: +witness the delightful fairy-tale animals which +form the handle of the family mangling-board, +and the equally charming monsters which seem +to perch on the arms and backs of chairs.</p> + +<p>A word on their primitive method of mangling +may not be amiss. Two utensils are necessary—the +first a kind of rolling-pin, round which the +sprinkled linen is tightly swathed. The other, a +mangling-board, a narrow flat piece of wood +wielded by the picturesque handle I have +described, is then pressed tightly on the linen +and rolled with as much force as possible. I do +not really believe that this operation can, even +with great strength, make very much difference +to the condition of the linen; but the process is +much more interesting to watch than the working +of a civilised mangling-machine.</p> + +<p>It is in the winter that the work of a forester is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span> +at its height. The felling of trees begins late in +September, and is continued under many difficulties +and hardships all through the winter. As the +large forests are often at some distance from +populated areas, the woodsmen build themselves +log huts. They fill up the crannies between the +logs with moss and turf, but on the roof they +lay first a covering of birch bark to keep things +close and dry. These huts are warmed day +and night by a wood fire, which is always kept +burning; on this they make their tea and coffee +and do what little cooking they may need. I could +not discover what happens to the poor horses that +help the woodsmen in their labours. Do they share +the hut with their masters, or do they sleep as best +they may outside in the cold and snow?</p> + +<p>The trees are felled, the branches lopped off, +and the trunks stripped of their bark, which is +kept and applied to many useful purposes. They +are then gathered together where it is most +convenient, and when the snow becomes deep +enough they are dragged or slid to the nearest +practicable waterway. I believe that it is at this +stage that the owner, or his representative, marks +the timber for recognition. In many cases the +owner of the forest sells his felled trees to a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span> +merchant, and it is here in such a case that the +wood changes hands. In spring, when the ice-bound +rivers begin to thaw, and the melting +snow swells them in force and volume, the logs +are carried by these torrents to the main river. +During their journey hundreds of logs get stuck +here and there, sometimes lying crossways between +the banks and damming the river. The river +drivers have their work cut out to obviate this +happening, and, if possible, to be rid of it after +its event, for to such a stoppage may be due most +dangerous floods, and many accidents, when the +immense mass of logs, stopped in their eager passage, +at last are free. Sometimes the logs are chained +together and sent down in rafts; but more often +each one pursues a separate course. If they are +jammed, the river driver, with the help of his long +pole, must balance himself as best he can on the +logs, as he springs from one to another, poking +and prodding till at last he loosens the mass; and +how to save himself is the question of the +moment, for a risky calling is that of the man +who endeavours to direct the logs in the way +they should go. Sometimes, when the danger +appears great even to these hardy Norwegians, +accustomed though they are to risking their lives +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span> +daily, the man whose duty it is to discover and +cut the log which is probably causing the whole +stoppage is put into a kind of harness and +attached by ropes to both banks of the river, so +that when the whole mass rends itself free he +may be lifted directly above their violence and +so drawn into safety. As it is bad for the wood +to lie through the summer, it is important that +all this work should be done completely and with +regularity. If it is a dry season, the logs will be +left high and dry, and be liable to crack; on the +other hand, one may often see logs lying at the +bottom of deep water so saturated that they +cannot float. All this timber is a great source +of wealth to the country. It is used enormously +for fuel, for fencing, and in building. Immense +quantities are exported in the raw; others are +prepared for use in the form of doors or window +frames; there is even a certain market for complete +log houses of various sizes. Naturally, in +such a country, one meets frequently with sawmills, +and here the countless cataracts are found +useful in supplying motive power. It is surely +strange, all these things considered, that so little +discretion is exercised in the felling and planting +of trees. Although of late years, I believe, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span> +Government has bestowed a good deal of attention +on this question, so much of the forest land is in +private hands and beyond surveillance that on the +whole sadly little care can be taken to prevent the +ill-treatment of the forests. It is acknowledged +that there are many tracts of bare land which +within the memory of living man were thick +forests. In several districts wood is too scarce +to be used for fuel, and consequently the inhabitants +are dependent upon peat. Bogs are to +be found all over the country—on the lonely tablelands +as in the inhabited valleys. These bogs are +generally moss lands, and, in the north particularly, +they contain thick strata of decayed matter from +the luxuriant forests of former days. The digging +and cutting of splendid peat is one of the smaller +industries of the country. It is thought that it +will become of much greater importance as peat +more and more takes the place of wood as fuel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i63" id="i63"></a> +<img src="images/i064.jpg" width="650" height="477" alt="FISHING-NETS AT SUNDALSOREN" /> +<p class="caption">FISHING-NETS AT SUNDALSOREN</p> +</div> + +<p>In other times there were thousands of acres of +common land in Norway. The difficulties which +this places in the way of a complete utilisation +of the soil have led to attempts by the local +governments to partition the common land among +responsible owners; but there are obstacles, and in +many cases the ground is shared by several farmers. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i64" id="i64"></a> +<img src="images/i065.jpg" width="650" height="475" alt="THE MIDNIGHT SUN" /> +<p class="caption">THE MIDNIGHT SUN</p> +</div> + +<p>On the private property of many large farmers a +feudal system of a kind is very much in vogue. +Almost the same method is found on the Italian +<i>podere</i>. Dwelling-places are built on the estate, +and together with a greater or lesser plot of land, +and under certain conditions which differ in various +districts, are leased to a class of farm-labourers +called <i>husmaend</i>. These men have certain rights +of grazing on the farmer's land, and in addition to +the rent, which is exceedingly small, the farmer +has a right to their services during a certain time +of the year. Superior to these husmaend are the +<i>placemaend</i>, who own their houses but lease a +certain amount of the farmer's land.</p> + +<p>In the south-east of Norway the cultivation of +fruit is carried on to a large extent. In favourable +years peaches, apricots, tomatoes, and even grapes, +are grown in the open air; in the north, on the +mountains, the summer warmth is insufficient for +even hardy plants.</p> + +<p>Rye and oats are the most important cereals. +They flourish and ripen amid harsher conditions +than other grains can endure. Rye is the chief +bread cereal of the country. A large area of ground +is devoted to the cultivation of a mixture of barley +and oats which is known as <i>mangcorn</i>. Experience +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span> +has shown that the two grains planted together +produce a larger crop than they do when planted +singly. Besides being used as a human food, it is +also a fodder for cattle, and a peculiarly excellent +means of fattening swine. Berries are found growing +wild in abundance in most of the inhabited +regions; but vegetables play a very unimportant +part in the feeding of the peasant.</p> + +<p>The Norwegian horse, while not remarkable for +beauty or carriage, is an exceedingly useful beast. +It is hardy, gentle, and very active. On the +Norwegian roads, which are in some parts very bad +and in other parts merely rough bridle-paths, it +cannot be surpassed. In Lapland, as everyone +knows, the horse is almost entirely superseded by +the reindeer. These are indeed a source of profit +to their masters. From them the Lapps obtain +their milk, cheese, peat, and the skin from which a +good deal of their clothing is made. The small +sledges which the reindeer draw are usually for one +person. They are made of skin and are without +shafts. The reins are tied to the horns of the +beast, and this is all the control the driver has over +the animal. Occasionally the reindeer is vexed and +turns on his master, who saves himself by rolling +out of the sledge and covering himself with it. It +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span> +is a wonderful fact that a well-trained reindeer can +run down the steepest hill without once coming in +contact with the vehicle behind it, though there is +nothing in the world but its own cleverness in +covering the ground in a sort of zig-zag movement +to prevent constant bumping and collisions. +While young reindeer are being trained in the way +they should go, a big buck animal is fastened to +the back, to do nothing but pull against the other +continually. This animal lives almost entirely on +the moss, its natural food, which in the winter it +scrapes out from under the snow with its strong +hoof. Many Lapps keep a thousand or more head +of these deer. They herd them together with the +help of their clever dogs. Sometimes during the +winter a family of these tent-dwellers descend upon +districts more favoured than their own, and I +believe the immense flocks of reindeer do untold +damage in the forests. Besides clothing themselves +in the skin of the reindeer, the Lapps make from it +many objects for sale in the towns. Shoes and +coats in the Lapp style, and all sorts of small +articles, such as boxes, bags, knife-handles, in the +fur, are produced by this people. I came across a +very old book which—in an account of a visit to +Norway—gives a short description of a meeting +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span> +with some Lapps. I imagine that much of it may +stand as if it had been written to-day.</p> + +<p>"We accordingly provided a supply of drink and +eatables; and, with a guide and an interpreter, set +out on horseback. After travelling about forty +hours, without seeing either any people or the road, +we pitched our tents, at night, near a wood, with a +part of which we made our fire. At length we +met a family of about twenty persons, with +their wives and children, who cordially saluted us, +and we all shook hands. We shared out tobacco +and brandy among them. They conducted us to +their huts, and gave us dried reindeer flesh and +milk.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i65" id="i65"></a> +<img src="images/i066.jpg" width="650" height="473" alt="MUNDAL, FJÆRLAND, SOGNEFJORD" /> +<p class="caption">MUNDAL, FJÆRLAND, SOGNEFJORD</p> +</div> + +<p>"Their countenances are a miniature resemblance +of the Calmuck faces; they are diminutive +in size, and to appearance wretched; sufficiently +generous, but full of uneasiness. They suffered +us to go about everywhere, and do as we chose; +and they readily showed us whatever they had. +We were soon as intimate as if we had been born +among them. Their language is very harmonious. +A herd of about thirty reindeer strayed around. +Our interpreter, who, by the bye, knew but little +of their language, contrived to let them know that +we wished to proceed onwards, to visit a few +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span> +families of their people, by means of a carriage +with reindeer. Immediately they harnessed a +sledge for us; but it went very slowly, as no track +in the snow had been previously beaten down. +We arrived at a tribe who were all brothers and +sisters of those we had quitted. Their huts were +formed of large poles of wood, and set circularly, +covered with branches, moss, earth, and reindeers' +hides; they have holes for the smoke to escape +and another hole made in the ground. We stayed +three days with these people. In the middle of +their huts a stove is placed, on which they make +their fire, all sitting round it. Their clothing is +made of deerskin, similar to a shirt, and tied about +the loins with a cord. We saw some, however, +dressed in linen, for which they had made an +exchange of skins. These people, whose manners +and habits are well worth observation, seem to +enjoy the freedom of their way of life. They +have no words in their language which express the +ideas we attach to king, prince, governor, laws, +rights, etc. We presented them with a few trifles, +with which they were highly delighted, and took +leave of them, to continue our route to Tuffendalen, +where, after eight days' dragging, we at last found +good boor-cottages. Whether the Laplanders +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span> +indirectly belong to any regular constitution, or +contribute anything to it, I cannot tell; but I +remarked that, generally speaking, like the poor +Indian of Pope, they have no artificial wants; and +thus far, at least, they appear contented. The +whole of this tract of land is solitary and desert. +The superficial and level extent of it may comprehend +a thousand and eight hundred square +miles. <i>Laplander</i> is with them considered as a +term of reproach, or a mere nickname; they call +themselves <i>Samalatzes</i>."</p> + +<p>Since I wrote about the restrictions on the +shooting of wild animals, I have learned that, +whilst only one elk may be shot during one year +on any estate, the owner of the estate may mark +his ground for the purpose into certain divisions, +and by paying a slight increase on his licence has +thereby the right to kill as many elk as he has +these partitions of his land.</p> + +<p>While wandering in the forest, a Norwegian +friend was attacked by a bull elk. Having no +weapons and considering prudence the better part +of valour, he climbed an adjacent tree. Not to be +baulked of his victim, the elk had recourse to the +extraordinarily brilliant idea (for an elk) of gnawing +away the roots of the tree. For eight mortal +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span> +hours the object of his endeavours sat on the top +of the tree momentarily expecting its fall and his +destruction. At last the elk turned his attention +for a time to food, and on this quest he absentmindedly +wandered away, leaving my friend to +scramble down and be free. I should imagine +there was an elk hunt next day on that estate.</p> + +<p>Inhabiting the innumerable small islands on the +south-west coast of Norway are a race different +from the land dwellers, with whom they have no +communication. They are miserably poor, and +live in abominably dirty huts on the barren land +which is their heritage. Among these islanders +consumption and leprosy claim many victims. +The spread of leprosy is due mainly to the uncleanly +habits of the people. They eat very little +meat with the exception of pigs' flesh. The pigs +feed on anything they can pick up, which resolves +itself chiefly into the rotting remains of fish. The +name given to them speaks for itself—"fish pig." +Once a year, in the families that can afford it, such +a pig is killed, and on its flesh they depend for +their meat for months. It is not to be wondered +at that such food, combined with their unsavoury +habits, produces such terrible results. Statistics +seem to show that leprosy has been growing less +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span> +prevalent since the middle of the last century; +but it is still necessary to keep several hospitals +for the lepers.</p> + +<p>Another remarkable fact gives rather an interesting +example of the evolution which must follow +on any abnormal conditions. For hundreds of +years these people have had no opportunity of +duly exercising their lower limbs, which are in +consequence short and undeveloped; while the +extraordinary muscular development of their arms +and shoulders is not astonishing when one +considers that all their transit exercise must be +done by rowing. In consequence of this, and +perhaps also on account of the consanguineous +marriages, many of the inhabitants of these islands +present extraordinary appearances.</p> + +<p class="center b1 p6">FISHERIES: THE LAPPS:<br /> +RELIGION AND MORALS:<br /> +MUSIC</p> + +<p class="center p6">CHAPTER IX<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">FISHERIES: THE LAPPS: RELIGION AND MORALS:<br /> +MUSIC</p> + +<p class="p2">Although most Englishmen with any knowledge +of Norway have been originally attracted to the +country by the hope of sport, especially of salmon +fishing, and though the rents which they are willing +and eager to pay for rivers or sections of rivers +are a substantial sum brought into the country, +the sea fisheries are, of course, of immeasurably +greater importance.</p> + +<p>The old sagas tell that over a thousand years +ago "splendid painted ships, with sails of several +colours," sailed laden with fish to England, and +the abundant and varied supply of fish which distinguishes +the coast of Norway has always been +one of the chief sources of the country's income. +In 1897 it was estimated that the total receipts of +the trade amounted to about sixty million kroner. +The coastline of Norway is exceedingly long; in +many places it slopes down to great ocean depths. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span> +These various depths and the different conditions +of the submerged surface determine the nature of +the submarine fauna, and consequently of the fish. +Perhaps the most important of these are cod, +herring, and salmon. Cod are principally fished +for in March and April, with lines and nets. The +Lofoten cod fishery is carried on from several +stations, spread over various islands. Here are +the warehouses and the very primitive dwelling-places +of the fishermen. The cod are caught with +lines and with nets, which are baited with herrings +or little metal fish whose gleam serves equally +well to deceive the cod in search of food. At the +favourable spots in the right season, the fish are +so abundant that the fisherman has only to throw +the line and pull it out again to find that a fish has +bitten and thus closed its career. The spoil is +taken ashore, split open, attached two and two +together by the tail, and thus hung over long lines +to dry. The liver is used for the fabrication of +cod-liver oil, a medicine whose unpleasantness is +more than equalled by its excellence as a remedy. +The heads of this profitable fish are used for +manure. In these cold regions, where grass is +scarce, the cod heads and herrings are used as +fodder for cattle. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i66" id="i66"></a> +<img src="images/i067.jpg" width="650" height="468" alt="FISHING-BOATS AT LOFOTEN" /> +<p class="caption">FISHING-BOATS AT LOFOTEN</p> +</div> + +<p>During the season fishermen from all northern +Norway flock to the stations. Sometimes as many +as five or six thousand fishing boats, with a total +crew of thirty-two thousand men, are gathered +together. The catch averages thirty-five millions; +and the fish are usually sold by the hundred, +generally prepared either as "klip fish"—salted +and dried—or as the evil-smelling <i>torfisk</i> (stock +fish), which haunted our wanderings through +Holland, which imports large quantities. In old +fishing laws of the islands it is insisted that no +torfisk should be hung up after April 12, or taken +down before June 12. I presume that after this +treatment they will last and be odorous for ever. +In the off-seasons small cargoes of this fish are +carried by many of the passenger steamers, to the +profit, perhaps, of the captain, but to the intense +displeasure of the passengers. Indeed, all down +the coast of Norway we noticed that the air was +impregnated with the smell of stock fish; our +towels and napkins, and indeed everything we had +washed, had the same repulsive odour.</p> + +<p>Though the financial side of it is very satisfactory, +this industry costs the country much in lives of +men. The great enemy of the fisher-folk are the +violent tempests which spring up suddenly in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span> +Vestfjord. Often the boat is overturned, and the +occupants cling as best they may to the various +iron rings and chains. Often they drive their +knives deep into the wood of the boat and hang +on thus as long as they are able. Though there are +lifeboats permanently attached to the stations, the +greater number of fishermen lose their lives in +pursuit of their calling; and after the tempest dies +down, and the wrecks are washed ashore, often +the clues to the number and identity of the poor +drowned owners are the knives still planted in +their boats. Nowhere are widows and orphans so +many as on these coasts of Norway. During the +fishing season the sale of intoxicating liquor is +prohibited by the Government.</p> + +<p>The herring come next in importance to the cod. +They are variable in quantity, and in some years +are almost altogether absent. The fishermen insist +that there are "herring periods," with years good +and bad. Such periods are said to last for about +thirty years. During recent times such a period +seems to have set in. The herring season is very +short. Suddenly, as if by magic, the sea swarms +with fish, which after a time disappear as rapidly as +they came. To a certain extent they may be relied +on twice a year—for the spring fishing off the south +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span> +coast between Stavanger and Bergen, and early in +winter off the northern coast between the Romsdal +and Tromso. This is called the "large herring +fishery," from the greater size of the fish in these +parts. Besides this, fishing goes on in a measure +at all times of the year. The herring are caught +either by going out to sea in search of shoals; or +by lying in wait for them in the small bays and +fjords, preventing their escape by arrangements of +nets, and baling them out at leisure. In the open +sea they are also caught with nets, and are more to +be relied on as to quantity.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i67" id="i67"></a> +<img src="images/i068.jpg" width="476" height="650" alt="A LITTLE SÆTERSDALEN PEASANT GIRL" /> +<p class="caption">A LITTLE SÆTERSDALEN PEASANT GIRL</p> +</div> + +<p>When a shoal of herring arrives, always +announced by whales and flights of birds who feed +on the small fish, telephones and telegraphs are set +in motion to summon the fishermen to the spot, +and to order barrels and salt for the packing of +the fish. These are sent as speedily as possible by +special steamers. When the shoal approaches the +coast, an immense net encloses it as completely +as possible. The fish are massed so compactly that +a boat crossing the shoal is raised by them. +The brilliancy of their scales as they dash about, +almost on the surface of the water, is dazzling. +Landed, they are immediately split open, cleaned, +salted, and packed for transportation. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span></p> + +<p>Whale fishing is carried on to some extent off +the north of Norway. On the little island of +Skaaro there is a building where whale oil is +prepared for use. From afar off the sickening +smell announces the industry of the island: repulsive +morsels of greasy <i>débris</i> float on the surface +of the water. At the landing place the rocky +beach is so covered with grease that it is difficult +to walk without falling. A friend arrived just as +a whaler appeared on the horizon, dragging after +her the carcase of an enormous whale, weighing +seventy-five thousand kilogrammes. Such an +animal will give about fifty thousand pounds' +weight of oil, and will bring the captors between +£280 and £300. Such a giant requires for his +daily meal twenty or thirty tons of fish. To take +them he opens his jaws, and closes them on water +and fish alike; he swallows the fish, allows the +water to filter through the curious formation of his +mouth, and then squirts it up like a fountain +through an opening in the skull. It is this jet of +water which often causes his ruin, by indicating his +position to the watchful whalers. On the boat +which is chasing him is a cannon, loaded with an +enormous harpoon, which is attached to the ship +by a long rope wound round a pulley. The extremity +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span> +of the harpoon is armed with an explosive +bomb. When the whale appears the harpoon is +shot at it. Following its instinct of self-preservation, +it dives deep. The rope gives out rapidly. +When it is entirely unwound it naturally pulls +against the harpoon, the forked ends of which, +in the resistance, tear the flesh of the animal. +As a final result the bomb bursts in the body of +the whale, and generally wounds it mortally. The +corpse floats on the surface; it is attached to the +boat and towed to the station, where it is cut up. +The fat produces a large amount of oil; the whalebone +is a productive article of commerce; and +most of the remainder of the animal is converted +into manure.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i68" id="i68"></a> +<img src="images/i069.jpg" width="650" height="479" alt="BUERBRÆ, ODDE HARDANGER" /> +<p class="caption">BUERBRÆ, ODDE HARDANGER</p> +</div> + +<p>It is on account of the great importance and +interest which we in England attach to the salmon +fishing that I do not dare to deal with it, except to +make an apology that any book on Norway should +be without at least a chapter on this splendid sport. +Though the accomplished angler is allowed to +relate fish stories without interruption from an +absolutely incredulous audience, the remarks of +an inexperienced outsider would, I fear, not be +received with equal docility. I am sure that an +angler is born, not made: for, though I am ignorant +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> +on the subject, all my life I have listened to +enthusiastic fisherman's talk, and was brought up +in a nursery in which were "skied" various victims +of my father's prowess as an angler.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i69" id="i69"></a> +<img src="images/i070.jpg" width="472" height="650" alt="A LAPP MOTHER AND CHILD" /> +<p class="caption">A LAPP MOTHER AND CHILD</p> +</div> + +<p>Since the beginning of my book I have learnt so +much about the Lapps that I must enlarge on my +borrowed history of them in Chapter VIII. The +Lapps are nomadic on account of their reindeer, +and it is following these animals where they +choose to roam in search of food that takes them +wandering all over the northern half of Norway. +There are only two Lapp villages—Karasjok, in +Finmarken, and Kontokeimo, near the Russian +frontier. The permanent residences consist of +cabins built of turf, stones, or small tree-trunks. +These huts are round and have one opening in the +top, where the light penetrates and the smoke +comes out. In the middle of the hut a fire is kept +continually burning, with a big cauldron hanging +over it, suspended by a chain. The members of +the family and their servants, if they have any, +sleep on either side of the fire. The Lapps are +small, in great contrast to the Norwegians of this +region, who average over six feet in height. The +children are often exceedingly pretty; but they +soon lose their charm and become ugly, and are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span> +not rendered more attractive by their dirty habits. +All their garments are made of reindeer skin, and +the women add to these various silk shawls and +handkerchiefs brightly coloured; by the quantity +and the quality of these one may judge of their +rank and richness. The Lapps are supposed to +share a common origin with the Magyars of +Hungary, though these, if they recognise the +relationship, cannot feel flattered. It is certain +that the Lapps were the first inhabitants of +Norway. In appearance they are unprepossessing. +They have small eyes, very low foreheads, flat +noses, and thick-lipped mouths. Like the +Hungarians, they are incredibly proud. They +despise everything that is not Lapp, and refuse +to allow their daughters in marriage to Norwegians. +(I should have thought that the Norwegians +would not have worried much about this restriction.) +They are all baptized in the Lutheran +Church; but that is as far as their religion goes +in most cases. They are unmoral and superstitious.</p> + +<p>One might gather from the books of some of +Norway's great writers that the nation is on the +whole rather casual about morality. It would +appear that their religion, while condemning as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span> +worthy of hell quite honest pleasures, looks with +indulgence on a certain moral laxity, which is +indeed so habitual that it passes uncriticised. +Among the very strictly religious population in the +south-west, a pastor would be quickly got rid of +if he forgot himself so far as to play the piano +or drink intoxicants; but this same people some +ten years ago venerated as a martyr one of their +clergy who, forced to confess in public crimes +against the morality of his own parishioners, was +consequently deposed by the Government. His +flock, of their own initiative, built him a magnificent +church, and, providing him with a liberal +sufficiency, retained him as the director of their +spiritual welfare.</p> + +<p>Two Oratorians, visiting Norway some years ago +in a yacht, decided to spend a few days fishing at a +hamlet somewhere in the Sogne Fjord. They had +all the preparations for Mass with them, and wished +to take a small unused chalet as a chapel. The +farmer who owned the building was willing, and +negotiations were concluded on payment of a +nominal rent, when the farmer realised that my +friends were of the Old Religion. There was no +question of proselytism, as the idea concerned +only the two priests and their Catholic English +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span> +friends on the yacht; but all the countryside was +up in arms, and a few days later prominent personages +from Christiania had arrived on the scene to +put a stop to the possibility of such happenings. +In the meantime, however, my friends, little dreaming +of the importance attached to their doings, had +pursued their way along the coast, and were innocently +fishing elsewhere. At present the ecclesiastical +prejudice of the Norwegians is less marked, +though Jews are sedulously discouraged, and Jesuits +are forbidden the country.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i70" id="i70"></a> +<img src="images/i071.jpg" width="650" height="474" alt="SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS AT AUNE" /> +<p class="caption">SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS AT AUNE</p> +</div> + +<p>Various hospitals are attended by Catholic +nursing sisters, who are in great favour with the +medical profession and with the patients who are +lucky enough to fall under their care.</p> + +<p>All this time I am trying hard, by roundabout +means, to get back to Bergen, because I wish to fit +in, in proper context, a remark which I heard about +the town. It seems that I cannot get back there +legitimately, though I had hoped that the Sisters +of Charity would help me through with their +hospitals.</p> + +<p>I was listening to the woes of the American +Consul in Bergen. He was descanting on the want +of entertainment and the absence of all things +which make an American's life possible in any +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span> +country on the globe outside his perfect native +land. I sympathised with him, and threw in a +little grumble of my own, having relation to the +weather. "O, the weather!" said my red-headed +friend, very hopelessly and crossly. "Why, sure, +if a Bergen horse sees a person without an umbrella, +he shies." This seems pretty feeble as I set it +down; but at the time the Consul was disconsolate +and far from wishing to amuse me, bored and +discontented. Thus his remark just happened to +tickle me: we both laughed until we cried, and felt +very much the better for the diversion.</p> + +<p>Frequently, at times of <i>ennui</i>, we found diversion +in music, or in information about that art. The +lure, though perhaps it can hardly be called a +musical instrument, is a primitive means of conveying +sound. The herds on the mountains used +it to call their cattle together. It is said that no +two lures have tones exactly alike, and that the +cattle are able to distinguish and place the particular +sound of their guardian's lure. It is a wooden +trumpet, nearly five feet long, made of two hollow +pieces of birchwood, bound together throughout +the whole length with strips of willow. Besides +being used to call the cattle together, it is often +carried by travelling parties to avert the risk of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span> +anyone being lost in the wilds. Its notes may be +heard at a great distance, and are rather harsh and +discordant, possessing none of the musical qualities +of the Alp horn used by the Swiss for the same +purpose. Grieg composed charming music for a +song called "The Princess." The words led me to +suppose that the lure is rather a fascinating instrument; +and the above description rather disillusioned +me, until I decided to allow a good deal for poetic +licence.</p> + +<p>The Norwegians are exceedingly musical. Their +national music gives wonderful expression to their +moods. Almost invariably in the gayest pieces +one catches here and there a pathetic little droop +which gives a very particular character to Norwegian +music. In the country the post of fiddler +is handed down from generation to generation, +together with certain airs which are looked upon +as family property; but official fiddlers are by +no means the only musicians in the district. These +are found in every family, dividing their favours +between the violin and the guitar. The organist +L. Lindeman did great service to his country by +collecting and preserving hundreds of national +ballads, dances, and hymns, which had lived only +in the ear and the soul of the people, and thus +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span> +were lost entirely to the outer world. The oldest +of these songs are the sagas, sung traditions that +have been handed down from immemorial ages. +They recount the heroic exploits of the Vikings +and warriors of heathen times. Many ballads +tell of the beautiful <i>huldre</i>, of the fay who +presages the destruction of fishermen, of the water +sprite, and of the brownies who, living underground, +are covetous of cattle. To gratify their taste, the +brownies help themselves to such as graze on the +mountains, but only if their guardian's eyes are +turned off his charges; they make dwarfs of the +beasts to enable them to enter crevices in the +ground, in order that they may descend to subterranean +passages. Many songs about these +malicious fairies do the maidens sing as they keep +their eyes carefully fixed on the herds, to prevent +their being stolen in like manner. Some of the +songs consist of hundreds of four-line verses, which +must surely be a hard test to the memory of the +singers. Sometimes two singers will have a duet +in such a song, singing verse after verse alternately. +He whose memory, or, in default of memory, +invention, fails him first is loser.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i71" id="i71"></a> +<img src="images/i072.jpg" width="476" height="650" alt="RIVER AT GJORA" /> +<p class="caption">RIVER AT GJORA</p> +</div> + +<p>The Norwegian national dances have in their +melodies and rhythms a bold and natural character +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span> +which gives them considerable worth. The +principal are the <i>halling</i>, a Hardanger solo +dance consisting of wild gyrations and vigorous +kicks at rafters of the room. He who kicks +highest is the champion. The other dance is the +<i>springar</i>, which is a dance for two, with no less +call for the display of muscular powers.</p> + +<p>The two favourite instruments of the people, on +which all this music has been played for centuries, +are the langelik, which somewhat resembles a +zither, and the Hardanger violin. The langelik +has a long, flat body, with round holes, and at least +seven strings, which are struck with a plectrum. +The tone is rather weak, and the sound is somewhat +monotonous, as the possibility of producing +modulated sounds is almost entirely excluded.</p> + +<p>The Hardanger fiddle is higher and more arched +in its build than the violin we know. The instrument +is decorated as much as possible, the scroll +being a dragon's head, or something equally +fantastic: and the body of the fiddle is richly carved +and ornamented with incrustations of ivory and +mother-of-pearl. Beneath the four upper strings, +which are tuned to suit the individual tastes of +the musician, and under the finger-board, there +are four, sometimes more, sympathetic strings of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span> +fine steel wire. By the aid of this instrument the +people make wonderful sketches in music descriptive +of the beauty of dawn and the close of a +summer's day, with the birds' trills, or the huldre's +song, or the ringing of marriage bells. I have all +this from a Norwegian book, and from instruments +I have both seen and heard.</p> + +<p>The best known of the modern music-makers of +the north is the great Norwegian Edward Grieg, +whose genius is familiar to all musicians the +world over. He was born in Bergen, and lives +there still, though he has travelled much in +Germany, Holland, and Italy. Another name +which we know well in this country is that of +Sinding, who is of the younger generation.</p> + +<p>Norway has no regular opera; but the concerts +which are given in the beautiful National Theatre +are eagerly attended, and the programmes are +representative of the musical talent of Europe.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i72" id="i72"></a> +<img src="images/i073.jpg" width="476" height="650" alt="GRIEG" /> +<p class="caption">GRIEG</p> +</div> + +<p class="center b1 p6">LEGENDS AND LITERATURE</p> + +<p class="center p6">CHAPTER X<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">LEGENDS AND LITERATURE</p> + +<p class="p2">In Norwegian folk-lore the devil is a person with +many relations, who are called <i>Jutuls</i>. In favour +of the legends about them there is often some +circumstantial evidence. Does a mountain or a +rock bear similitude to the figures of human beings +or of animals? Be sure that the Norwegians will +have some tradition to account for the formation +by proving to you that such rocks or mountains +are the various creatures they resemble, bewitched. +In the voyage along the northern coast of Norway +from Trondhjem to the North Cape, the traveller +will pass seven extraordinary mountains called +"The Seven Sisters." A little farther he will see +a rocky island which from certain points of view +resembles a cloaked man on horseback riding into +the sea. The head and ears of the horse are +particularly natural.</p> + +<p>The history of these islands is entertaining. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> +One of the devil's younger brothers, who lived in +this district, went on a visit to his seven sisters, +who, like himself, were of giant growth. The +sisters had with them a female cousin. With +this Jutula their brother fell in love, and, as is +customary in such cases, they swore eternal fidelity +to each other. Business called the Jutul home; +his beloved cousin was sent for to nurse a sick +brother. She fulfilled this duty to admiration, and +in the weakness of his convalescence her brother +listened to the story of her love and promised her +that she should wed her Jutul cousin. On his +complete recovery he became less amenable, and, +ignoring his promise, insisted that his sister should +wed one of his dissolute companions. It is said +that the Jutula's chief objection to this man was +that he smelt strongly of tobacco; but I think that +this must be embroidery, as my story is older than +the use of tobacco. In any case, her refusal was +absolute, and the brother was obliged to employ +malignant magic. All the messengers from the +Jutul, loving and beloved by his sister, were turned +into rocks before they could reach her ear. The +amorous Jutul was not aware that his beloved had a +brother, or any other relation, and, concluding that +she was the last of her race, believed also that it was +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span> +she who had petrified his messengers. Wrathful, +and having as his birthright an unerring aim, he +mounted his steed and shot from his cross-bow a +bolt at the dwelling of the Jutula. The perfidious +brother was bathing at the time, and, presumably +for the purposes of the story, he wore a sou'wester. +The bolt, shot from seventy miles' distance, passed +through the hat, and carried away a portion of the +victim's skull; then, skimming the water, it pierced +the heart of the fair one. She knew that only her +lover had this unerring aim, and, thinking him +faithless and cruel, used her dying moments in the +exercise of her hereditary power, and petrified +herself, her lover, his horse, and the floating +sou'wester. There they remain to this day. +Overlooking the scene of sorrow stand the seven +sisters of the misguided lover, petrified with horror +at the fate of their relations. The distance between +the various islands is considerable; but it must be +remembered that we tell of giants.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i73" id="i73"></a> +<img src="images/i074.jpg" width="472" height="650" alt="HENRIK IBSEN" /> +<p class="caption">HENRIK IBSEN</p> +</div> + +<p>Norwegian geography abounds in spots such as +these, to which are attached legends; and in no +country is the folk-lore more rich and varied. The +charming story-teller, Asbjornsen, and his friend +Bishop Moe, collected many delightful fairy-tales, +mostly traditional, but eked out by their own +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span> +imaginations. These stories are entrancing, and +at the time when they were first given to the +public they awoke a romantic tendency in +Norwegian literature. They had a great influence +on the work of Joseph Welhaven, contemporary +with the great Weigeland, who died at this time. +Welhaven had been rather overshadowed by his +rival, who, for the part he had played in political +struggles, was idolised as the people's hero. Also, +his work had been too much influenced by the +great Germans who were his contemporaries. The +charming figures in the fairy-tales of his country +gave him inspiration for wonderful romances with +the genuine Norwegian ring and subjects taken +from national life. Asbjornsen, however, is more +than a retailer of folk-lore. He frames his tales in +description of the country in which he has found +them on the lips of the people, and thus produces +vivid pictures of peasant life. The sister of Henrik +Weigeland, Camille Collett, during her widowhood +burst forth as a literary genius. Apart from her +talents as a writer, she was one of the pioneers of +the women's movement in Norway, which country +has been more influenced by this agitation than +any other European State. Immense importance +is attached to it; the great geniuses Ibsen and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span> +Bjornson show much interest in the moral side of +the question; and all Norwegians are very eager to +discuss the subject, which is far too large and +complicated for myself.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i74" id="i74"></a> +<img src="images/i075.jpg" width="471" height="650" alt="BJORNSTJERNE BJORNSON" /> +<p class="caption">BJORNSTJERNE BJORNSON</p> +</div> + +<p>Ibsen is best known as a playwright. Indeed, +from the time he succeeded in drama all other +interests were put aside. The Norwegian Government +provided him, at the age of thirty-six, with +pecuniary aid to enable him to travel. It was in +Rome that he wrote two of his greatest plays, +<i>Peer Gynt</i> and <i>Brand</i>. To-day his literary +activity has ceased, and all who will may see the +great man seated at a window of his flat in +Christiania almost any time during the livelong +day.</p> + +<p>Bjornstjerne Bjornson is still producing. He +has written delightful romances; but for the last +few years he, like Ibsen, has devoted himself to the +stage. It is interesting to note that the splendid +National Theatre in Christiania is managed by the +writer's eldest son. His plays and those of Ibsen +are magnificently acted, and always received with +enthusiastic appreciation by the Norwegian public, +which gives all its great men a splendid meed of +appreciative recognition—how well deserved it is, +the whole world will acknowledge. The translated +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> +commentary on the Norwegian literature of the +last fifty years makes me feel that I would give +everything for a knowledge of the language +sufficient to let me enter into the treasure-house +of untranslated genius.</p> + +<p>Many of our modern authors are translated +into Norwegian. I noticed that every book-shop +window contained caricatures of Mark Twain +and translations of his works. Surely there was +some particular reason for this celebrity of an +American humourist in Norway over and above +the excellence of his work, which one would +have thought difficult to do justice by in +translation?</p> + +<p>German books form a large part of the stock-in-trade +of the Norwegian bookseller. The German +language is very generally known—much more +so than either French or English. In this and +many other things it is plainly to be seen that +there is much good feeling between Germany and +Norway.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="i75" id="i75"></a> +<img src="images/i076.jpg" width="469" height="650" alt="FRIDTJOF NANSEN" /> +<p class="caption">FRIDTJOF NANSEN</p> +</div> + +<p>Public baths are to be found all over Norway—in +some places are still found the <i>badstuer</i>. These +are primitive Turkish baths, timber rooms heated +with red-hot stones. Water is poured on the +stones, and scalding steam is produced. I read +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span> +in an old book on Norway an account by an +American traveller of a visit to such a bath. He +appears to have been rather a popular person +among the Norwegian peasants, and was invited +one Saturday in the depth of winter to assist at the +general ablution. He relates with much amusing +comment how all the bathers ran from their dwelling-places +to the "bath chamber" in what he calls +"the costume of Paradise." This in the depth +of winter! Determined to do the whole thing +properly, he followed their chilly example. At +the bath, the whole company sat round the room +on a sort of shelf. When they were thoroughly +well steamed they wended their way back to their +respective houses in the same lack of costume. +There was no discrimination of sexes.</p> + +<p>The writer speaks in high praise of the simplicity, +innocence, and cleanliness of the people. There +is in all writings on Norway a unanimity as to +their good qualities. For my own part, the +points about them that impressed me most were +their absolute honesty and the complete absence +of servility. While any Norwegian is delighted to +show politeness to the stranger, and even to take a +good deal of trouble in helping him on his way, +all these attentions arise from a supreme feeling of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> +courtesy and rarely from hope of reward. Anyone +wishing to have particular information as to a +subject concerning the country will be met on all +sides with practical offers of assistance. He will +find books relating to his subject showered upon +him, and kind offers to accompany him and show +him practical illustrations. This generous spirit, +which has its source in love of the native land, +is nowhere more marked than in such an establishment +as Bennet's, the Thomas Cook and Sons of +Norway. This, one would say, is a strictly commercial +affair; yet there is no end to the trouble +Bennet or his staff will take to encourage visitors +to see as much as possible of their lovely country +in a pleasant way, and this without remuneration +of any kind.</p> + +<p>Writing from Norway in 1820, a visitor says—"There +is no country which accords better with +my taste than Norway, nor is there any cast of +inhabitants or people that I have visited for +whom I have more esteem. Here at least are the +true haunts of simple natures, and it has been one +of the pleasantest passages of my life to dwell +among the mountains. The Norwegians are a +virtuous race; patriarchal simplicity, uprightness +and hospitality, kindness and piety, are their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span> +characteristics. They entertain great reverence +for their laws. In many other countries the laws +are not obeyed on one uniform principle; here, +on the contrary, the people respect them from +principle."</p> + +<h2>INDEX</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span></p> + +<div class="left25 right10"> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Aalesund</span>; <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li>Anglers; <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li>Antiquaries; <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> + +<li>"Aqua vita"; <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li>Arac punch; <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> + +<li>Art, Norwegian; <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> + +<li>Asbjornsen; <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + +<li>Aune; <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li>Avalanches; <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><i>Badstuer</i>; <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> + +<li>Bandak Lake; <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li>Baths, public; <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> + +<li>Bennet's; <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> + +<li>Bergen; <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + +<li>Bjornson; <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> + +<li>Boarding-houses; <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li>Bonaparte; <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li>Bread; <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> + +<li>Brottem; <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li>Buar glacier; <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + +<li>Butter; <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li>Bygdo; <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Canal</span>; <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li><i>Carriole</i>; <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li>Catholic nursing sisters; <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li>Catholicism; <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li>Cereals; <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> + +<li>Christiania; <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li>Christiania Fjord; <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li>Christmas; <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + +<li>Cod; <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> + +<li>Collett, Camille; <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li>Common land; <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> + +<li>Courtesy; <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> + +<li>Cows; <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Dalen</span>; <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + +<li>Dutch character; <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Elk</span>; <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> + +<li>Embroidery; <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Fiddlers</span>, official; <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> + +<li>Filigree work; <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li>"Fish pig"; <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> + +<li>Fishing; <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Fjord steamers; <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li>Folk-lore; <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li>Forester; <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li>Fruit, wild; <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li>Funerals; <a href="#Page_144">144</a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">German Emperor</span>; <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li>Gjora; <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li>Goblins; <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> + +<li>Good-looking people; <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li>Goose wine; <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li>Grieg, Edward; <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> + +<li>Guinea-pig; <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li>Gulf Stream; <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Haukelidsæter</span>; <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li>Hanseatic League; <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + +<li>Hardanger bridal; <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li> + +<li>Hardanger Fjord; <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + +<li>Hardanger violin; <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li>Hell; <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Herring; <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> + +<li>History; <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + +<li>Holmenkollen; <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> + +<li>Honesty; <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> + +<li>Horghheim; <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li>Horre; <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> + +<li>Horses, Norwegian; <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> + +<li>Huldra; <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Ibsen</span>; <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li>Intoxicating liquors; <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Jesuits</span>; <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +<li>Jewellery, peasant; <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li>Jews; <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><i>Kaleschevogn</i>; <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li>Karasjok; <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li>Kontokeimo; <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><i>Langelik</i>; <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> + +<li>Lapps; <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> + +<li>Leprosy; <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> + +<li>Lerfos; <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Liffeld Mountains; <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li>Lindeman; <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> + +<li>Lofoten; <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> + +<li>Lure, the; <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Mangling</span>; <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> + +<li>"Marie Stige"; <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li>Marienborg; <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li>Moe, Bishop; <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + +<li>Molde; <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li>Moldöen; <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li>"Monk and Lady"; <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li>Morality; <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> + +<li>Munch, Edward; <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li>Music; <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> + +<li>Mythology, Norwegian; <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Næs</span>; <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li>National dances; <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Odde</span>; <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li>Osterthal; <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Pixies</span>; <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li>Population; <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li>Posting system; <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li>Prawns; <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Railway</span>; <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Rain; <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Ravngju; <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li>Reindeer; <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> + +<li>Rjukan Fos; <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li>Roldal; <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> + +<li>Romsdal Mountains; <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + +<li>Roofs of grass; <a href="#Page_16">16</a> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Saeters</span>; <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + +<li>Sætersdalen; <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> + +<li>Saint Michael; <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li>St. Michael's Chapel; <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + +<li>St. Olaf; <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li>St. Olaf's Ship; <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> + +<li>Salmon; <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Salmon fishing; <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> + +<li>"Sanatoriums; <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li>Sea fisheries; <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> + +<li>Sælbo; <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Seljestad; <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> + +<li>Service in hotels; <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li>"Seven Sisters"; <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + +<li>Shops; <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li>Signposts; <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> + +<li>Skating; <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li>Ski competition; <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> + +<li>Skien Fjord; <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li>Skiing; <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li>Skis; <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + +<li>Sliper; <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li>Snake; <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> + +<li>Snow ploughs; <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> + +<li>Snow tunnel; <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li>Sogne Fjord; <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + +<li><i>Stavekirke</i>; <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> + +<li><i>Stolkjærre</i>; <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> + +<li>Storehouses; <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> + +<li>Storen; <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li>Sundal; <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + +<li>Sundalsoren; <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Tidemand</span>; <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + +<li>Thaulow, Fritz; <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> + +<li>Tobogganing; <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> + +<li><i>Torfisk</i>; <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> + +<li>Trains; <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li>Trolls; <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + +<li>Trondhjem; <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Ulefos</span>; <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Vikings</span>; <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + +<li>Voss; <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + +<li>Vrangfos; <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">Weaving</span>; <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + +<li>Wedding customs; <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> + +<li>Weigeland; <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li>Welhaven, Joseph; <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li>Whale; <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + +<li>Whale fishing; <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> + +<li>Wireways, aerial; <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> + +<li>Women's movement; <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> + +<li>Wood-carving; <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + +<li>Wood-pulp; <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> + +<li>Wooden boxes; <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li>Woodsmen; <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> + +<li>Wrecks; <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> + +</ul> +<ul class="none"> +<li><span class="smcap">X</span>; <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> +</ul> +</div> + +<p class="p6 center"> +PRINTED BY<br /> +NEILL AND COMPANY, LIMITED<br /> +EDINBURGH</p> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Norway, by Beatrix Jungman + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NORWAY *** + +***** This file should be named 38155-h.htm or 38155-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/1/5/38155/ + +Produced by Bryan Ness, Melissa McDaniel and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +book was produced from scanned images of public domain +material from the Google Print project.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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